ORJICULTUP<X 
 ^I^XHIBITO 
 
 DBO 
 
BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME 
 FROM THE 
 
 SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 iiemg W, S^ge 
 Z891 
 
 fil^ i»Mo^a 3/1/06: 
 
 RETURN TO 
 ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY 
 
 ITHACA, N. Y. 
 
DATE DUE 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 GAYLORD 
 
 
 
 PRINTED IN U.S.A. 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tlie Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924089568749 
 
riiE IIOETK TTLTUEAL EXHir.l TOES' 
 HANDBOOK. 
 
THE 
 
 HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITOES' 
 HANDBOOK 
 
 A TREATISE ON CULTIVATING, EXHIBITING, AND 
 
 JUDGING PLANTS, FLOWERS, FRUITS, 
 
 AND VEGETABLES 
 
 WILLIAM WILLIAMSON 
 
 Kevised by MALCOLM DUNN 
 
 Gardener to His Grace the puke of Buccleuoli and Queensbcrry 
 Dalkeith Park 
 
 WILLlA^^r BLACKWOOD AND SONS 
 
 EDINBURGH AND LONDON 
 
 ^[ D C C C X C 1 1 
 
 T 
 

 ^ 
 
 1 "^ i-l- O "] -v^ 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Preface . 
 Introduction . 
 Electing Judges 
 Judging . 
 
 [page 
 
 vii 
 ix 
 
 XV 
 
 xix 
 
 ^ DIVISION I. 
 
 Plants .... 
 Stove Flowering Plants 
 Stove Foliage Plants . 
 (jreenhouse flowering plants 
 
 (jREENHOUSE FoLIAGE PLANTS 
 ()RCHi:gS . .... 
 
 Ferns 
 
 Table Plants 
 
 Palms 
 
 Miscellaneous Exhibition Plan'ts 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 15 
 27 
 45 
 52 
 66 
 8.3 
 86 
 94 
 
 Cut Flowers 
 
 DIVISION II. 
 
 125 
 
 Fruit 
 
 1)1 VISION III. 
 
 153 
 
 Vegetables 
 ^[anuiies 
 
 DIVISION IV. 
 
 197 
 
 222 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 It is well known to all concerned with horticultural exhibi- 
 tions that a much felt want has long existed of some definite 
 and systematic standard by which the merits of exhibits might 
 be measured with a fair amount of accuracy. In this treatise 
 I have endeavoured to meet this want by giving the details 
 of a simple and efficient system, which can be applied on all 
 occasions, and varied in detail to suit the wants of every 
 case. 
 
 A Handbook of concise hints and cultural notes on the 
 rearing and preparation of specimens for exhibition is also a 
 desideratum among horticulturists, especially amateurs and 
 those of limited experience. The cultural remai-ks in this 
 work will therefore, I hope, be of some practical service to 
 such aspirants to success, and enable them to attain their 
 object with less trouble and more certainty. In the Plant 
 and Cut Flower Divisions of the work I have received valu- 
 able assistance from several eminent growers, for which I beg 
 to express my warmest thanks. 
 
 Further, I am very specially indebted to Mr. Duxx, Dalkeith 
 Gardens, for his kind assistance in revising the volume ; but 
 for all matters of opinion referred to in it, the Author is 
 alone responsible. 
 
vm PREFACE. 
 
 In referring to the various genera and species of plants, 
 the names by which they are commonly known in horticulture 
 are generally employed, and no attempt has been made to 
 follow any system of botanical nomenclature. 
 
 I trust the work may fulfil the objects aimed at, and 
 form a standard for estimating the merits of exhibits with 
 some degree of precision and regularity, and thus lead to 
 an all-round advance in Horticulture generally. 
 
 W. W. 
 
 March 1892. 
 
INTEODUCTION. 
 
 Ix introducing the reader to the contents of this Handbook, 
 we consider it necessary to give a few general remarks on 
 exhibitions ; to point out some of the benefits they confer on 
 those who participate in them, and show the effect their agency 
 has on increasing the value of produce. 
 
 Exhibitions, whether of Science, Art, or Industry, are usually 
 inaugurated with the view of promoting one or more of such 
 desirable objects as the education of the public mind, the 
 gratification of the senses, or the encouragement of Science, 
 Art, or Commerce. That the desired results have been attained 
 in a marked degree in Horticulture is clearly apparent to all 
 observers. When we notice the large and increasing number 
 of shows held throughout the country, nearly every parish 
 and village participating in the annual display of garden pro- 
 duce, and see the interest taken in their success by all classes 
 of the people, we are led to conclude that flower-shows must 
 be doing a vast amount of good, directly and indirectly, in this 
 country. Whatever tends to increase the productiveness of 
 the soil — whether it be the proper application of labour, or the 
 acquirement of a sound knowledge of the wants of plants, and 
 the liest modes of applying the elements provided by Nature 
 and Science, to meet the varying demands of plant life — is 
 assisting in a material degree to fni'nish the means which so 
 largely contribute to the comfort and happiness of the people. 
 
 There can be no doubt whatever that exhibitions tend in 
 this direction. The inducements offered through their agency 
 have a stimulating effect on the mental and physical energies 
 of all who participate in competitions, which are in themselves 
 
X INTEODUCTION. 
 
 laudable and interesting, when conducted in the right spirit, 
 and with due regard to the rules and regulations imposed by 
 all well-ordered societies. Sometimes these laws are set aside 
 by individuals, who do not hesitate to acquire by illegitimate 
 means any article of which they may be in want ; but there 
 can be no real satisfaction to the mind of any one gaining 
 a prize with what is not his own hund fide production, and the 
 spirit which prompts this dishonourable practice should be 
 combated by all competitors. 
 
 It is to be regretted that so few professional gardeners avail 
 themselves of the opportunities for distinction in the art of 
 Horticulture provided for them by the numerous and influential 
 societies throughout the country. JMany reasons may be given 
 for this lack of zeal and interest in such competitions. The 
 proprietor may not approve of exhibiting, and in that case 
 the gardener' has no choice in the matter. But in a large 
 number of non-competing gai'dens things might be different 
 if it were generally known how beneficial a reasonable amount 
 of successful competition is to all concerned, especially in the 
 now numerous class of gardens where the surplus produce has 
 to be disposed of in the market. Apart, altogether, from the 
 general effects of the extra attention, application of skill, and 
 the unsparing energy in manual labour, at all hours, which 
 successful competition entails, there is a decided increase in 
 the value of the produce, which is well illustrated by the fol- 
 lowing incident of actual experience. A few years ago two 
 places were sending equally good grapes to the same fruit 
 merchant, but the money returned to the one was about double 
 that given to the other. An explanation was demanded, and. 
 while admitting that the grapes were equally good, the dealer 
 said the grapes from the one place had got a name in the 
 town, and brought a high price, which was explained by suc- 
 cessful competition in the one case and non-competition in the 
 other. A common objection raised to growing fruit for com- 
 petition is that the plants are under-cropped. This may occur 
 through ignorance or inexperience in reducing the crop' to less 
 than what the plant is well able to mature. It .should be 
 clearly understood, however, that there is no loss in o-rowincr 
 
INTRODUCTION. xi 
 
 li'uit to what may be termed the exhibition standard, that is, 
 the highest state of perfection to which it can be lirought. 
 This can only be done by moderate cropping, or just what the 
 plant with good management is able to sustain and perfect. 
 When more than this is attempted, then waste begins, first iu 
 inferior produce, and ultimately in the premature sterility and 
 decay of the plant. Another prolific source of non-competition 
 is the belief of many that their place is not adapted for the 
 growth of exhibition specimens ; but it should be borne in 
 mind that numerous difficulties have to be surmounted in all 
 cases where growing for competition is carried on, and that if 
 soil and situation be unsuitable for one class of plants, the}- 
 may be well adapted for the cultivation of others, which may 
 be profitably and successfully grown. Thanks are due to those 
 who come forward with high-class exhibits, and thus keep 
 up the standard of perfection in all divisions of horticultural 
 produce. 
 
 Within recent j-ears great excellency has been attained in 
 fruit and vegetable culture. That this has not been altogether 
 the result of improved varieties needs little demonstration. It 
 will as readily be admitted that it is mostly the outcome of 
 an increased knowledge of the best methods of culture, and 
 a better acquaintance with the science which unfolds to us 
 the hidden treasures of Nature. 
 
 It is matter for regret that so little has been done till quite 
 recently to promote the study of Science' as applied to Horticul- 
 ture ■ and while we hear much about the establishment of schools 
 for educating and training youths in the science and art of other 
 branches of rural industry, such as Agriculture and Forestry, 
 very little has been said in reference to the equally strong claims 
 of Horticulture. When the arrangements are being carried out, 
 it is to be hoped that horticultural science will not be over- 
 looked, as it is quite as important a factor in the prosperity 
 of the country and the welfare of the people as any other 
 branch of rural economy. The need for a. test-examination in 
 Science and Art is fully as great amongst gardeners as it is 
 among the members of any other branch of the industrial pro- 
 fessions. Those who jiassed successfully would be the better 
 
xii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 equipped to reap the reward of their industry and natural 
 ability, while others who failed would be relegated to their proper 
 sphere in the horticultural profession. Various associations are 
 doing their best in several parts of the country to make up, in 
 some degree, for this crying want, by offering inducements to 
 young gardeners and others to compose essays on horticultural 
 subjects, for which they are awarded prizes and certificates. 
 These, however, are a very indifferent substitute for a properly 
 equi^jped curriculum, which would enable them to obtain a 
 thorough knowledge of the theory and jiractice of horticultvire, 
 and thus be the better able to understand and successfully 
 overcome the many difficulties which beset the young and 
 inexperienced. 
 
 Horticultural exhibitions are valuable object-lessons to the 
 aspiring but uninitiated tyro, and form an excellent medium 
 for learning what can be attained towards perfection in Horti- 
 culture by a diligent application of .skill and industry. So far 
 as the circumstances and his knowledge will allow, they furnish 
 to the intelligent student a good criterion of the various points 
 of merit in the different classes of exhibits. This phase of the 
 subject is, however, capable of much improvement. The re- 
 mark is often heard at flower-shows, " Why has the prize been 
 awarded to this in preference to that?" and such questions 
 may, as a rule, be but the outcome of ignorance on the part of 
 the general public ; but the fact must be remembered that the 
 exhibitors are often as ignorant as the others of the relative 
 value of the points upon which the awards have been decided, 
 as no data of any value exist for their enlightenment. One 
 of the chief objects of an exhibition is the all-round improve- 
 ment of the articles exhibited, which we may safely say has 
 been always kept in view and fairly well accomplished by hor- 
 ticulturists. 
 
 Most intelligent people do not now visit flower-shows for 
 the sole purpose of merely admiring gigantic and beautiful 
 specimens, similar in most respects to those they have so often 
 seen on the same occasions in every part of the country, but to 
 scrutinise and note the various points of merit which one exhi- 
 bit displays over another, and for the possession of which it has 
 
INTRODUCTIOX. Xlll 
 
 been a^^•i^rdecl the premier place. In this, however, they as a 
 rule can only find partial enlightenment, as the judges make 
 the awards from certain features in the exhibits which are, we 
 are willing to believe, perfectly clear and intelligible to them, 
 but of which people in general have only the faintest idea, and 
 no means have existed hitherto by which they could be guided 
 in their search for information on the subject. 
 
 A simple and efficient method of estimating the value of 
 the merits of all classes of hoii;icultural products met with 
 in competitions, has long been a desideratum to all who are 
 interested in the success of flower-shows, by which an equit- 
 able value could be put upon the skill, and taste, displayed 
 in the culture of every exhibit, and the awards made in 
 accordance therewith, on lines clearly defined and intelligible 
 to all who choose to learn. In estimating the value of Cultural 
 Merit, which is the principal factor in determining awards to 
 horticultural products, it is really an impossibility to frame a 
 code of laws, or lay down rules which could be followed with 
 success in every case, because no two specimens or samples are 
 found to be exactly alike in every detail. Still by means of 
 the decimal system — a simple method, eminently well adapted 
 for the purpose — a close approach can be made to absokite 
 accuracy in valuing the merits of exhibits, and to practical 
 uniformity in adjudicating thereon. 
 
 After summing up the value of the cultural merits dis- 
 played by the articles in competition — the result of the thought, 
 skill, and taste of the cultivator — it is not advisable, and is 
 seldom needful, to go farther to find data for determining an 
 award ; but in the event of a tie occurring in the cultural 
 value, resource must then be had to the Natural Merits or 
 intrinsic value of the exhibits to determine the award. It 
 is practically impossible to define the relative value under all 
 circumstances of natural merits, because they vary with the 
 tastes and customs of every country and parts of a country, 
 so that what may be highly prized in one place and period 
 may be counted of little use or value at another. Instead, 
 therefore, of attempting to lay down any fixed rules, which in 
 the nature of things could not be of general application, some 
 
XIV IX'l'liUDUCTION. 
 
 illustrations are given below of the order of precedence in 
 which the different kinds of exhibits are generally accepted, 
 and which can be easily rearranged to suit the varying taste 
 and circumstances on all occasions. With these desiderata 
 provided, there is still plenty of scope for the exercise of 
 knowledge, acumen, and sound judgment in making a correct 
 adjudication. 
 
 It is chiefly in the plant and fruit divisions, where, in mixed 
 collections, the greatest difference in nattu'al merit prevails. 
 The intrinsic, or commercial worth of an article, should not 
 alone determine its relative value in competition, but the 
 gi'eatest weight ought to be attached to the careful persever- 
 ance, skill, and taste required to produce a perfect exhibition 
 specimen. For example, the Oroton and Palm, which require 
 several years of careful culture to form specimens, should be 
 allowed more competitive value than a Caladium or Coleus; 
 and among flowering plants, the Erica and Ixora should have 
 more weight than a Cineraria or Begonia. A greater dif- 
 ference, however, is generally found in relative value among 
 the fruit in a large collection. The Pine-Apple is usually 
 assigned the first position, closely followed by the Grape, with 
 the Melon, Peach, Nectarine, Fig, Apricot, Pear, Plum, Cherry, 
 Apple, Strawberry, Gooseberry, Raspberry, and Currant in the 
 order in which they are here given. Other less common fruits 
 may intervene, but the order of precedence can always be 
 settled on the spot by competent judges, when they have the 
 exhibits before them. In all cases, excellence for dessert or 
 culinary purposes should carry more weight than mere appear- 
 ance or rarity. Rich flavour, high quality, and pleasing 
 appearance, should prevail in dessert fruit ; in culinary fruits, 
 large size, even outline, fine flavour, and usefulness, are the 
 chief points. 
 
ELECTING JUDGES. 
 
 The greatest care and discrimination should be exercised in 
 selecting the judges for horticultural exhibitions by those whose 
 duty it is to appoint them, because the success of an exhibi- 
 tion depends greatly on the confidence with which the awards 
 are received. A common practice is for a committee, or the 
 managers of a flower-show, to appoint the judges from among 
 their horticultural neighbours, without much consideration as 
 to their qualifications for performing the important duties 
 intrusted to them, in a just and equitable manner. Exhibitors 
 quickly find out any defect in the knowledge, fairness, or want 
 of impartiality in the judges, and promptly resent it, thus lead- 
 ing to much discontent and angry feeling, where nothing of 
 the kind should ever be heard of, if due precautions are taken. 
 Where the selection of the judges is left to the secretary alone, 
 as it sometimes is, the duty may be faultlessly performed by an 
 able and clear-headed man, but, as a rule, this is not a satisfac- 
 tory method of selecting them. We believe that the greatest 
 confidence would be secured if the judges were nominated by 
 a much wider constituency than is the custom at the present 
 time. It is already the practice at some agricultural and 
 other exhibitions to employ judges who have been nominated 
 for the office by the exhibitors, and this method is generally 
 found to give satisfaction. A similar method could easily be 
 adopted in connection with flower-shows. When the prize 
 schedule is issued to the members, a form should be sent out 
 with it, and all competitoi-s requested to fill in the names of 
 competent judges of the classes in which they intend to com- 
 pete, and in due course return the form so filled to the secre- 
 tary of the society. The committee would then only have to 
 
 find out those who had i-eceived the most votes, and elect tlieni 
 
 XV h 
 
xvi ELECTING JUDGES. 
 
 to the office. Of course, difficulties may crop up in carrying 
 out this method ; but where it has been tried, it has generally 
 resulted in the appointment of judges satisfactory to the main 
 body of competitors. 
 
 The best- qualified judges of the merits of any particular 
 class of exhibits are, as a rule, to be found among those who 
 have devoted themselves to the study aud cultivation of that 
 class, and have been successful in bringing it to the highest 
 state of perfection. It is scarcely possible for any individual 
 in an ordinary lifetime to acquire a thorough knowledge of all 
 the merits, peculiarities, and details of every subject brought 
 under review in horticultural exhibitions ; therefore, in judging 
 the various classes at a ilowershow, a division of labour is 
 absolutely necessary. Some men devote themselves mainly to 
 florists' flowers, sparing neither time nor means to secure 
 varieties with the finest form, colour, and substance, and to 
 cultivate them to the highest possible state of perfection. To 
 this class of horticulturists, therefore, we naturally look for 
 the best judges of the merits of the florists' flowers. 
 
 Other men are specialists in the cultivation of certain classes 
 of plants, having by a long course of experience and the exer- 
 cise of trained skill acquired a thorough knowledge of the 
 varied wants and peculiarities of the subjects under their 
 charge, which is needful to ensure success in their treatment, 
 and the production of perfect specimens at the proper time. 
 It is obvious that men so trained should be the best qualified 
 for adjudicating on the various classes of plants. 
 
 Then, again, other men find themselves perfectly at home 
 among fruits and vegetables ; and from long and careful prac- 
 tice in their successful culture and close study of their various 
 wants, they are thoroughly acquainted with every merit and 
 peculiarity that fruits or vegetables possess. They have thus 
 come to be recognised authorities in these branches of horti- 
 culture, and should be the best qualified to adjudicate on their 
 merits. 
 
 From the great difficulties in the way of most men acquiring 
 a perfect knowledge of every department of horticulture, so as 
 to enable them to adjudicate with confidence and to the general 
 
ELECTING JUDGES. XVll 
 
 satisfaction in all, it would probably be more satisfactory for 
 societies to appoint one man as the sole judge in the section 
 to which it is well known he has given special attention, and 
 to strictly confine his duties to that section. One thoroughly 
 qualified man would do the work quite as well, probably better, 
 and more expeditiously than the usual triumvirate now in 
 vogue, and the great responsibility incurred would add to the 
 weight of his decisions. 
 
 The very cream of qualified men may be employed to judge, 
 and their awards may be made with the utmost fairness and 
 impartiality, but still their decisions may appear in the eyes of 
 the uninitiated to vary so widely, as to render them a source of 
 much dispute and dissatisfaction. This arises mainly from the 
 absence of any code or recognised system of judging horticul- 
 tural exhibits. Under the usual arrangements practised by 
 societies at the present day, each arbiter is a law unto himself, 
 and the methods of estimating the meiits and demerits of 
 exhibits are as numerous as the judges ! 
 
 In adjudicating upon the merits of a collection of fruit, for 
 instance, it is a common practice for the judges to begin by 
 allowing three, or it may be four points as the standard of 
 value of the Vest lUsh in the collection, no matter how nume- 
 rous and varied the dishes may be. The highest number of 
 points, say four, is given to a first-rate Pine- Apple, three to a 
 dish of first-class Grapes, two to a fine Melon, and one to an 
 excellent dish of Peaches, when the scale is exhausted, and 
 nothing left wherewith to gauge the merits of the other kinds 
 of fruit in the collection. Another common practice is to 
 allow a uniform value to all kinds of fruit. Gooseberries and 
 Grapes being placed on the same level. A much more unsatis- 
 factory method is followed at times, when the judges compare 
 the dishes of the same kind of fruit, and thereby determine the 
 awards by the greatest number of "best" dishes, but taking 
 no account of the aggi'egate merits of all the dishes in each 
 collection. Worst of all, some judges, after a cursory survey, 
 "slump the lot" in making their awards; and to save their 
 life, they could not give a detailed and satisfactory explanation 
 of the conclusions they have arrived at. 
 
xviii ELECTING JUDGES. 
 
 From these familiar illustrations of the crude methods and 
 unsystematic manner in which judging is practised, especially 
 at provincial shows, the need for reform will be at once ad- 
 mitted, not only in the modus operandi, but more particularly 
 in the general adoption of a simple and easily applied formula, 
 by which a fairly accurate and uniform estimate can be made 
 of the various merits of all classes of horticultural exhibits. 
 It is in the interest of every Horticultural Society to secure 
 the services of tlioroughly experienced judges. With local 
 societies this is often a matter of difficulty, and their best 
 efforts may fail to command able and experienced men ; but 
 with a clear and simple method of procediire as a guide, the 
 merest tyro at adjudicating may, with the exercise of ordinary 
 intelligence, soon succeed in doing justice to the merits of the 
 exhibits placed before him for his verdict. 
 
JUDGING. 
 
 It should be the aim and desire of all exhibitors to set up their 
 specimens in the most perfect condition attainable, and with all 
 the tasteful effect which their skill and experience can devise, 
 so as to have the best possible chance of winning the highest 
 awards in competition. The mferits of every specimen should 
 be brought out to the highest perfection by the skill and taste 
 of the cultivator, and exhibited when they are in their most 
 perfect form. Without going into elaborate details on the 
 specific merits of every class of horticultural exhibits, with all 
 their varied characteristics among plants, flowers, fruits, and 
 vegetables, with which all properly qualified judges should be 
 perfectly familiar, the chief points of merit in each class will 
 be pointed out in its place in this work, when the subject is 
 dealt with. 
 
 In ordinary practice, competent judges have seldom any diffi- 
 culty in arriving at a fair and just conclusion as to the respec- 
 tive merits of the exhibits, after a close examination of the 
 specimens. Where, however, they may differ in opinion, or 
 where the competition is keen and close, the following simple 
 and easy method may be adopted in estimating the merits of 
 the individual specimens, and thereby settling the order of 
 the awards to the satisfaction of all reasonable persons. For 
 example, say nine exhibitors are competing in a class of Twelve 
 "distinct" Stove and Greenhouse Plants, or the same number 
 Rose-Blooms, Dishes of Fruit, or of Vegetables, for which three 
 prizes are offered. On careful examination, it is found that 
 four of the collections are clearly out of the running, and may 
 be passed without further comment. The merits of the other 
 five collections are so nearly equal that it is resolved to esti- 
 mate the value of the individual specimens to decide the order 
 
XX JUDGING. 
 
 in which the prizes are to be awarded. Taking them as they 
 come, the collections are marked A., B., C, D., and E., and, 
 taken in the same manner, the specimens in each are numbered 
 1 to 12; and the value of each article estimated and recorded 
 separately, as shown in the following table. The decimal system 
 is employed as the simplest and best for the purpose, and the 
 values are estimated in tenths and hundredths, the standard 
 being the unit, denoting a perfect specimen. 
 
 Nus. of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Speci- 
 
 A. 
 
 B. 
 
 '•■■ 
 
 IJ. 
 
 E. 
 
 men B. 
 
 
 •8 
 
 
 
 
 ]. 
 
 •94 
 
 1-0 
 
 1-0 
 
 •9 
 
 'J 
 
 
 •8 
 
 •9 
 
 ro 
 
 •7 
 
 •85 
 
 3 
 
 
 75 
 
 i-o 
 
 •9 
 
 •6 
 
 •9 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 1-0 
 
 ■8 
 
 ■75 
 
 •77 
 
 •8 
 
 5 
 
 
 1-0 
 
 •7 
 
 •8 
 
 •6 
 
 ro 
 
 6 
 
 
 •66 
 
 •8 
 
 •85 
 
 •8 
 
 ■9 
 
 7 
 
 
 •9 
 
 1-0 
 
 •7 
 
 •9 
 
 ■95 
 
 8 
 
 i 
 
 •/ 
 
 ■82 
 
 •99 
 
 •85 
 
 ■7 
 
 <j 
 
 
 •6 
 
 •7 
 
 •8 
 
 •8 
 
 ■8 
 
 10 
 
 
 '1 
 
 ■9 
 
 ro 
 
 1^0 
 
 ■9 
 
 11 
 
 
 1^0 
 
 •58 
 
 ■81 
 
 ■8 
 
 1-0 
 
 12 
 
 
 •8 
 
 i-o 
 
 •9 
 
 ■93 
 
 ■6 
 
 
 9 •85 
 
 10^0 
 
 10^5 
 
 9^75 
 
 10^3 
 
 In proceeding with the valuation, A. collection is first dealt 
 with in detail, beginning with No. 1. Each specimen is 
 minutely examined, and the value of its merits agreed upon, 
 and then noted opposite its number in A. column, and so on 
 until the merits of the twelve specimens have been carefully 
 estimated and recorded. The B. collection is treated in exactly 
 the same manner, and the C, D., and E. collections follow in 
 their order. At the conclusion the results are summed up, 
 and show at a glance that C. collection is first, E. collection 
 second, and B. collection third, with the other two clearly in 
 the rear but not far behind, proving that the competition was 
 close, and showing the necessity for minutely estimating the 
 
JUDGING. XXI 
 
 value of every detail. In the rare event of a tie between two 
 or more of the collections, a more minute examination of the 
 specimens in them, and the extension of the decimal to three 
 figures, will to a certainty decide the closest possible com 
 petition. 
 
THE HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITORS' 
 HANDBOOK. 
 
 DIVISION I. 
 
 PLANTS. 
 
 Plants constitute the main feature in all horticultural exhi- 
 bitions, occupying the greatest amount of space, and provid- 
 ing an imposing and attractive display for the admiration 
 of the public. In treating of the A-arious classes of plants, 
 we have taken them in sections with some natural affinities, 
 and in much the same order as they usually appear in the 
 schedules of flower-shows, as follows : — 
 
 Section 1. Stove Flowering Plants. 
 
 
 
 Stove Foliage Plants. 
 
 ,, 3. Greenhouse Flowering Plants. 
 
 ,, 4. Greenhouse Foliage Plants. 
 
 ,, 5. Orchids. 
 
 ,, 6. Ferns. 
 
 ,, 7. Palms. 
 
 8. Table Plants. 
 
 ,, 9. Miscellaneous Exhibition Plants. 
 
 The genera in each section are taken in alphabetical order, 
 for easy reference. Mention is made, when necessary, of a 
 few of the best species and varieties for exhibition purposes. 
 The cultural remarks are confined as much as possible to the 
 special points requiring attention in growing specimens for 
 exhibition. 
 
STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 ACHDIENES. 
 
 This is a beautiful genus of soft-wooded, tuberous-rooted 
 stove plants, cbiefly from the tropical parts of America, which, 
 from their floriferous nature, make excellent specimens, under 
 good treatment, for exhibition. Among the numerous varieties 
 in cviltivation, the following are vigorous and free-flowering, 
 and may be chosen for exhibition : — Carminata splendens, Lon- 
 giflora aJlia, L. major, Rosea magnifica, Purpurea elegans, and 
 Williamsii. 
 
 The tubercles should be started in a strong heat in a light 
 compost of fine leaf-mould and sand. When the shoots are 
 about an inch long, the plants should be carefully transplanted 
 into pans 12 inches in diameter, placing the plants 2 inches 
 apart, in a mixture of fibry loam and peat, with a third of 
 silver sand and well-dried and broken-down cow-manure, all 
 thoroughly incorporated together. A moist and genial tem- 
 perature encourages vigorovis growth, and a judicious use of 
 weak liquid manure, after the pan is full of roots, induces 
 abundance of fine large flowers. As the shoots grow, they 
 must be carefully staked and trained as near as possible in 
 the shape of a half globe. When the flower-buds begin to 
 appear, the plants should be removed to the warm end of a 
 greenhouse, and be gradually exposed to air and light as they 
 expand. 
 
 In preparing them for exhibition, the horizontal side shoots 
 may be untied and carefully drawn towards the centre, and 
 wrapped in cotton-wool and tissue-paper to carry them safe to 
 the show. They must be again neatly arranged and tied-out, 
 taking care to have the plant well balanced, and every flower 
 fully exposed ; all stakes and ties being well hidden by the 
 foliage. 
 
STOVE FLOWERIXrr PLANTS. 
 
 ALLAMANDA. 
 
 All the species of this lovely genus of stove climbing plants 
 are of easy culture and remarkably free flowering. They are 
 natives of the tropical regions of South America, and luxu- 
 riate in abundance of heat and moisture. Among the best for 
 exhibition are A. grandiJJ.ora, A. nolilis, and A. Scliottii. To 
 grow them well for this purpose, the shoots should be run up 
 as near the glass as possible till the flowers appear, when they 
 should be brought down and carefully trained over a balloon 
 or other trellis, securely fixed to the pot, taking care to leave 
 sufiicient room to allow the leaves and flowers to assume a 
 natural position. 
 
 The Allamanda grows well in a compost of equal parts of 
 sound fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and sand, sprinkled with 
 charcoal nodules and half-inch bones. When the specimens 
 are fully formed, and occupy large pots or tubs, it is not 
 necessary to re-pot them annually. With rich top-dressing 
 and a due application of liquid manure, they may be kept in a 
 thriving and floriferous condition for years. Before starting 
 them in spring, the surface soil should be removed to a depth 
 of three inches, and the space filled up with a rich mixture 
 of turfy loam and dry, well-rotted manure, pressed firmly 
 down. The plants require a good rest to ripen their growth, 
 and should be kept comparatively dry through the winter. 
 The shoots should be cut back to a few eyes before the plants 
 are started in spring ; and when they break, no more shoots 
 should be allowed to grow than is actually required to furnish 
 the specimen — a few strong and well-matured shoots giving 
 much the finest crop of flowers. AUamandas are usually 
 increased by cuttings which strike and grow easily; but A. 
 grandiflora thrives best when grafted on a stronger growing 
 species, such as A. Scliottii. 
 
 If the specimens have to travel a distance to the show, it is 
 very advisable to gum the flowers, by dropping a little good 
 liquid gum on to the base of the petals, which will prevent 
 them being so easily shaken off in transit. Each flower should 
 also be carefully wrapped in tissue-paper and cotton- wool, to 
 
4 STOVE Fr,0\VERIXG PLANTS. 
 
 save it from being rubbed and injured. When the plants have 
 reached the exhibition, they must be carefully unpacked, and 
 the shoots, leaves, and flowers all neatly arranged in as natural 
 and effective a manner as possible, taking care to leave nothing 
 untidy about them in the way of tying or packing material, 
 and all stakes and ties used in training should be kept well 
 oiTt of view. These remarks as to " packing " and " setting 
 up " of exhibition plants apply to all sections. The finest of 
 specimens are easily ruined by carelessness in packing or in 
 transit to the exhibition ; and a prize is often lost by good 
 specimens being set up in a careless, untidy, and tasteless 
 fashion. 
 
 AMARYLLIS. 
 
 This is a beautiful genus of bulbous plants, the varieties of 
 which have of late been greatly multiplied and improved. 
 There is quite a host of fine varieties in the trade, from 
 which the exhibitor can easily select the most suitable for 
 his purpose. 
 
 The practice of some growers is to turn the bulbs out of 
 the pots after they are matured, and dry them off, while 
 others allow them to remain, and start them without re-potting. 
 As the strength of the future plant depends more upon the 
 perfect maturation of the bulb than on the subsequent treat- 
 ment, the result of the different methods may be imperceptible ; 
 but we prefer to allow the bulbs to rest in the pots till the 
 time for starting, when the old soil is shaken away, and three 
 well-ripened bulbs are placed in a 1 0-inch pot, using a compost 
 of rough fibrous loam, old hot-bed manure, and sand. They 
 should be started in a temperature of 55°, or a little higher, 
 according to the time they are wanted in flower. ' Little water 
 should be given until growth is proceeding. When the flower- 
 scapes appear, the plants should be taken to the greenhouse, 
 placed near the glass, and watered with weak liquid manure 
 to assist in the full development of the flowers. The flower- 
 stems should be securely staked, the flowers enveloped in 
 wadding, and the leaves carefully laid up against each other, 
 when removing the plants to the exhibition. 
 
STOVE FLOWEEIXG PLANTS. 5 
 
 AXTHriitUM. 
 
 Perhaps A. Anclreamim and the well-known species .4. 
 Scherzerianum are the two most popular of this genus with 
 exhibitors, and have a bold and striking appearance in a group 
 of flowering plants. They are of easy culture, and owing to 
 the firm texture of the leaves and flowers make splendid exhi- 
 bition plants. They luxuriate in a high temperatin-e with 
 plenty of moisture in the atmosphere. During active growth 
 they must have copious supplies of water at the roots, while a 
 little fish-manure dissolved in water and applied once a week 
 during summer will be found a healthy stimulant. 
 
 The proper time to re-pot them is early in spring, or when 
 growth has commenced. The pots should be one-third full of 
 crocks, and the compost used should consist of very fibry peat, 
 charcoal, and spagnum ; keep the plants well above the rim of 
 the pots to ensure perfect drainage and a free circulation of air 
 about the roots. 
 
 BOUGAINVILLEA. 
 
 This is a beautiful genus of stove flowering plants of climb- 
 ing habit, blooming in summer on the points of the current 
 year's growth. They must be trained near the glass, and have 
 plenty of light to mature their growth. When they show 
 flower, they should be brought down to the trellis, and treated 
 exactly the same as Allamandas. They require to be grown 
 vigorously in summer, and after flowering they should be 
 gradually ripened by being kept moderately dry at the roots, 
 and rested dui-ing winter, or till they require to be stai-ted to 
 bring them into flower. A little before starting, the shoots 
 should be pruned back to within a few buds of the wood of 
 the previous year. When they break into growth, the plants 
 may be re-potted if necessary, using good turfy loam, leaf- 
 mould, and sharp sand, with comparatively small pots, and 
 potting them very firm. A short time after re-potting the 
 soil should be thoroughly soaked with tepid water, and the 
 plants syringed daily to encourage a vigorous growth. The 
 best for exhibition is the free-flowering B. glabra, but B. 
 ^IKciosa is also worthy of a place in a collection. 
 
6 STOVE FLOWEEINC; PLANTS. 
 
 CLEEODENDEON. 
 
 This genus of plants comprises two groups, the one being 
 scandant in habit, the other shrubby. As G. Balfourii is the 
 most suitable species for exhibition, for which it has few rivals, 
 our remarks will chiefly apply to it. Its free-flowering nature, 
 and the ease and certainty with which it can be brought into 
 flower at a given time, makes it invaluable for exhibition 
 purposes. From ten to twelve weeks, according to its season 
 of rest, is the usual period between starting and blooming. 
 The main point to be observed in its culture is to secure 
 strong, well-ripened growth, and then give it a fair amount 
 of rest before starting it again. Being of a climbing habit, 
 the shoots must be regulated during the growing season, and 
 trained up strings or wires close to the glass. When the 
 growth is complete, the shoots should be brought down and 
 neatly trained over a suitable trellis. Tlje greater the num- 
 ber of well-ripened shoots, the more abundant will be the beau- 
 tiful panicles of bloom. It thrives well in equal parts of loam 
 and peat, with a little old mushroom-bed manure and charcoal. 
 If the loam is heavy, a sprinkling of coarse sand will be 
 beneficial. While the plants are growing freely, weak liquid 
 manure should be given once a week. This plant should not 
 be too often disturbed at the roots, a rich top-dressing being 
 more beneficial when it has attained specimen size. 
 
 CEIXUM. 
 Of this handsome tribe of bulbous plants, a good specimen 
 is occasionally seen at an exhibition, and when of a large size 
 and in perfect condition, it is an exceedingly attractive object. 
 Among the best for this purpose is C. amabile, C. Moorei, and 
 C. purpiirascenis. They thrive best when grown in large pots 
 or tubs, in a compost of fibry loam and peat, with a good 
 sprinking of half-inch bones and charcoal nodules intermixed. 
 The drainage must be perfect ; and when the plants are well 
 established, they will not require a shift for several years. A 
 rich top-dressing annually at the time they are started to 
 grow, and a liberal application of clear liquid manure while 
 
STOVE FLOWEIUNG PLANTS. 7 
 
 growth is proceeding and the roots are active, will secure fine 
 heads of the largest-sized flowers. To save the heavy heads 
 of flowers while being conveyed to the show, they raust 
 be securely staked, and each flower supported with wads of 
 cotton-wool carefully wrapped with tissue-paper. The plants 
 require to be set in the full sunlight after they have done 
 flowering, and the water gradually withheld, to thoroughly 
 mature the bulbs, as vipon their ripeness much of the success 
 in their cultivation depends. They are mostly evergreens, 
 and should not be dried off, like deciduous bulbs, but kept 
 slowly moving through the winter in a temperature of 45° to 
 50°, and put into stove heat about two months before the date 
 of the show. 
 
 UIPLADEXIA. 
 
 All this genus of lovely stove climbers make excellent sub- 
 jects for exhibition, and should be grown wherever a suitable 
 house can be devoted to them. They are somewhat difiicult 
 to manage, and hence their value as exhibition specimens is 
 fully recognised by all good judges of plants. When their 
 requirements are understood and duly provided for, they can 
 be grown to great perfection. 
 
 One important point in their culture is to keep them clean 
 and not over-water them. Although they require a moist 
 atmosphere and high temperature, they will not thrive with 
 a superabundance of water at the roots. Like all other climb- 
 ing plants for exhibition, they must be trained close to the 
 glass, and should have a corner in the stove where shading 
 can almost be dispensed with, so as to ripen the growth 
 thoroughly. In order to prevent the shoots intertwining, 
 they should be trained singly to strings until they show 
 flower, when they should be brought down and placed over 
 a balloon trellis, on which they should be exhibited. When 
 they cease flowering for the season, water should be gradually 
 withheld, and the plants rested during the winter months. 
 At the same time over-dryness at the root must be guarded 
 against. Three of the most distinct for exhibition are D. 
 amaUlis, D. holidensis, and D. Brearleijana. The soil best 
 
STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 suited for them is a mixtiire of turfy loam, fibry peat, sharp 
 sand, and charcoal. The pots should be well drained, and the 
 soil pressed firm about the roots. 
 
 EUCHARIS. 
 
 The lovely and sweet-scented EiiclLark aijiciKoitica is, when 
 well flowered, an invaluable plant for exhibition, as well as of 
 great service for decorative purposes. The genus is a small 
 one, and none of the species are equal to Amazonica for exhibi- 
 tion. They are natives of New Grenada, and require a moist 
 stove temperature to bring them to perfection. 
 
 To form large specimens for exhibition, select the finest 
 bulbs, wash them clean to see that they ai'e perfectly sound, 
 sprinkle them with silver sand, then plant them rather 
 deeply in pots of a suitable size, placing the bulbs about three 
 inches apart, and using a compost of rich fibrous loam well 
 sprinkled with bone-meal and small bits of charcoal. The 
 pots must be well drained, as the plants require abunda,nce of 
 water at the roots and copious syringing daily to grow them 
 well. The leaves, after potting, should be supported by a few 
 neat stakes till the roots get hold of the soil and are able to 
 support the foliage. A stock of good plants being secured, they 
 can be brought into flower at almost any season by judicious 
 management. To bring them into flower at a given time, 
 they should be encouraged to make a vigorous growth pre- 
 viously, which should be thoroughly matured by keeping them 
 di'y and comparatively cool and well aired for about six weeks. 
 They should be taken back to the stove about seven weeks 
 before the show, and treated in the ordinary manner, with 
 plenty of moisture in the air. After the pots are full of roots, 
 the application of clear liquid manure twice a week is very 
 beneficial. Should the flowers come too early for the show, 
 the plants can be removed just as the flowers begin to open 
 to a cooler house, and kept shaded for a week or two till they 
 are wanted. Each flower stem must be securely staked, and 
 the flowers carefully protected in the usual way, for safety in 
 transit to the exhibition. 
 
STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 FKANCISCEA. 
 
 This is a beautiful genus of dwarf shrubs from Brazil, 
 which are not so often met with in collections as they should 
 be. They produce an abundance of pretty sweet-scented 
 flowers at different times during the season, and are grown 
 to perfection in a moderate stove temperature. F. cahjcina 
 major and F. confeiiiliora are the best for exhibition. The 
 plants must be kept closely pinched when young, to form 
 a proper foundation for exhibition specimens ; afterwards 
 they are easily kept in shape by an annual pruning at the 
 time they have done flowering. They should be re-potted 
 every year in equal parts of fibry peat and loam, with about 
 one-fourth of silver sand, making the whole firm in the pot. 
 
 GAKDENIA. 
 
 This useful genus of free-flowering plants combines the 
 qualities of beauty, fragrance, and profusion of flowers which 
 have made it a popular favourite. Among the best for 
 exhibition are G. florida intermecUa, G. f. Fortuneana, and 
 (t. vadicans major. The short-jointed shoots and shrubby 
 nature of the plant makes it easily grown into a fine compact 
 specimen. It thrives best in a mixture of equal parts sandy 
 loam and peat, with silver sand and leaf-soil ; but well-rotted 
 manure and bone-meal should be added to the soil when re- 
 potting specimen plants. It requires a moist and high tem- 
 perature to make its growth, which should be gradually toned 
 down as the plants come into flower. The Gardenia is very 
 subject to the attack of insects, and should be syringed witli 
 soap- water to which has been added a gill of paraffin to the 
 gallon. An excellent preventative for red spiders is to place 
 over the plunging material a layer of stable manure, which 
 should be kept moist. As soon as the buds are set, weak 
 liquid manure with some soot dissolved in it should be given 
 once a week, to increase the size of the flowers, and give a dark, 
 healthy gloss to the leaves. 
 
10 STOVE FLOWEEING PLANTS. 
 
 IXOEA. 
 
 Altliough these are considered rather difficvilt subjects to 
 cultivate, they stand in the front rank of flowering plants for 
 exhibition, for which purpose most of the species and varieties 
 are well suited, especially I. coccinea superia, I. Oolei, I. Diiffii, 
 and I. javanica florahmula. They luxuriate in a high tem- 
 perature, strong bottom-heat, moist atmosphere, and all the 
 light possible, merely shading them from the strong sun at 
 mid-day. While growing, they should be carefully attended 
 to with water at the roots. When done flowering, they should 
 receive any pruning they require, and be rested, in a com- 
 paratively dry state, in an intermediate house. They succeed 
 best in fibry peat, a little leaf-mould, and plenty of silver 
 sand, all well mixed, and potted moderately firm. After they 
 have reached specimen size, they will thrive well for years 
 without re-potting ; but they should be carefully supplied with 
 weak liquid manure during the season of active growth. 
 
 JA8MIXUJI. 
 
 There are many species of this excellent genus of trailing 
 sweet-scented plants. Of the stove kinds, /. gracilUmum and 
 J. Sambac fore pleno are the best. The former is a profuse 
 bloomer, and the shoots being very flexible, it can be grown 
 as a specimen in any form to suit the taste of the cultivator. 
 The balloon or the pyramid shape is best adapted for an exhi- 
 Ijition specimen. They thrive well in a mixture of, sandy 
 loam and peat, with the addition of some old rotted manure. 
 When the plants attain a large size, their luxuriance is very 
 much promoted by applications of weak liquid manure during 
 the growing period. 
 
 MEDINILLA. 
 
 Among the finest and most handsome of all stove plants is 
 a well-grown and profusely-flowered specimen of 31. magnifim, 
 a native of the Philippine Islands. It delights to make its 
 growth in a high temperature and a moist atmosphere, shaded 
 
STOVE FLOWEKIXG PLANTS. 11 
 
 from strong sunshine. When the growth is fully developed 
 the plant should be exposed to all the light possible, to 
 thoroughly ripen the wood, and then rest it in an inter- 
 mediate house. From eight to ten weeks before the plant is 
 required for exhibition, place it again in the stove. An open 
 compost of turfy loam and peat, with a sprinkling of nodules 
 of chai'coal and half-inch bones, and plenty of silver sand to 
 keep all open, grows it well. When the roots have filled the 
 pot, and especially when the flowers are developing, a weekly 
 application of clear liquid manure has a very beneficial effect. 
 Cuttings strike readily in pure sand, with a strong bottom- 
 heat, and covered with a bell-glass. The large and beautiful 
 rosy-pink panicles of flowers remain in perfection for a con- 
 siderable time ; but, in removing the plant to the exhibition, 
 each panicle must be carefully supported by stakes and cotton- 
 wool, as their weight is apt to damage the flowers if they are 
 allowed to sway about or rub against anything. 
 
 PANCEATIUM. 
 
 This is a genus of bulbous, sweet-scented, white-flowering 
 plants of some merit for exhibition. P. fmgrans is a free- 
 flowering plant, with large umbels of flowers of perfect purity, 
 and long narrow segments radiating from the centre, which 
 gives it a chaste and graceful appearance. It should be potted 
 in strong fibrous loam, sand, and well-rotted hot-bed manure. 
 It is generally cultivated under the same conditions as the 
 Eucharis with great success. The plants, if placed in an 
 intermediate house previous to flowering, with plenty of light 
 and air to mature the growth, will continue much longer in 
 flower than when confined to the stove. A few doses of liquid 
 manure after the flower-scapes appear are productive of good 
 results, but they should be stopped when the first flowers begin 
 to open. When removing the plants to the show, the greatest 
 care is necessary to prevent injury to the flowers, which should 
 be enclosed in wadding without pressing against it, and the 
 whole plant enclosed in tissue-paper and covered with stout 
 canvas. 
 
12 STOVE FLO WEEING PLANTS. 
 
 POIXSETTIA. 
 
 This is one of the most striking and attractive winter deco- 
 rative plants we possess. The typical variety V. pv.ldie.rriw.a 
 and the white variety P. pulclierrima alba are both very 
 sho^vy plants, but the former is the most suitable for exhibi- 
 tion. A two-year-old plant, if the wood is well matured, makes 
 a good foundation for an exhibition specimen. The plants 
 •should be pruned to within two eyes of the old wood, and 
 although they grow fairly well in a cold frame during the 
 summer months, they are all the better of a little artificial 
 warmth, especially during the night. When the buds are 
 started, the old soil should be shaken away from the roots, 
 and the plants potted amongst sandy loam and leaf-soil. 
 They should be syringed twice a day, and very little water 
 given at the roots until growth has fairly commenced. 
 They should be kept near the glass, and plenty of light and 
 air given, for the formation of strong, firm, short-jointed 
 wood. From ten to twelve strong shoots are sufiicient to 
 form a fine specimen. Flowering may be forwarded or re- 
 tarded by the time the plants are introduced to stove heat, 
 three to four weeks only being necessary for the full develop- 
 ment of the bracts after the plants are full grown. 
 
 ROXDELETIA. 
 
 The Rondeletias aie hard-wooded evergreen shrubs from the 
 West Indies, producing freely theii' bright little trusses of 
 flowers Among the best are /)'. cordata and E. speciosa major. 
 The roots are small and fibry, and are liable to be injured by 
 injudicious watering ; but when the plants are grown into 
 well-flowered specimens, they are very effective at the autumn 
 shows when stove flowering plants are scarce. On account of 
 their straggling habit they require to be neatly trained into 
 shape for exhibition ; and in whatever form they are trained, 
 the shoots should be fully exposed during the growing season, 
 that they may be short-jointed and well matured. After 
 flowering, the shoots should be cut back to within three joints 
 of the previous year's growth. When they are starting to 
 ifiow is the best time to re-pot, using a mixture of I'ough 
 
STOVE FLO^VERING PLANTS. 13 
 
 fibrous peat, light loam, and shai'p sand, with a few bits of 
 charcoal. Firm, potting and careful watering are two essential 
 conditions to ensure success. 
 
 STEPHAJSfOTIS. 
 
 The fine stove-climber S. flovihwula is indispensable to the 
 exhibitor. Its pure white waxy flowers and thick leathery 
 leaves fit it admirably for withstanding the changes of tem- 
 perature which plants in exhibitions are subjected to. 
 
 Under good cultivation it is a rampant grower, and should 
 be trained in the same manner as other climbers, by running 
 up strings under the glass around which the shoots will twine. 
 They can then be easily brought down to the trellis when 
 they show flowers. Although a plant of rapid growth and 
 a gross feeder, it flowers best when rather confined at the 
 roots; therefore large plants can be grown in comparatively 
 small pots, and they will flower more freely if judiciously 
 treated with liquid manure. The best time to re-pot is when 
 they are starting into growth in spring, using good fibrous 
 loam, leaf-mould, sand, and a little bone-meal. Careful water- 
 ing is very essential, especially during the winter months, 
 when the plant is resting. During the period of active 
 growth, an occasional application of weak liquid manure will 
 greatly benefit established plants which are getting pot-bound. 
 The balloon form is the best mode of training for the Stepha- 
 notis, which should be done some time before the exhibition, 
 so that the leaves and young shoots may have time to assume 
 a natural position. 
 
 TABERN^EMONTANA. 
 
 This is another sweet-scented useful stove evergreen shrub, 
 somewhat resembling the Gardenia. T. coronaria flore plena 
 and T. grandiflora are among the best for exhibition, the 
 flowers of the former being pure white, and the latter of a 
 yellow colour. They form by careful pruning and pinching 
 fine compact bushes, which, when well flowered, stand high 
 among exhibition plants. They thrive well under the same 
 conditions of culture as recommended for the Gardenia, 
 
14 STOVE I'LOWEKIXr; PLANTS. 
 
 THUNBEKGIA. 
 
 This is a genvis of stove aud greenhouse climbers, some, of 
 which only are worthy of cultivation as exhibition specimens. 
 T. laurifolia is a large-flowered species of a blue colour, 
 which, from the length of time it continues to bloom, entitles 
 it to be classed amongst exhibition plants. It makes a fine- 
 looking plant when it is trained on a globular trellis with all 
 its panicles of flower turned outwards. It requires a compost 
 of fibrous loam and peat in equal parts, with a little sand and 
 well-decayed manure. 
 
 TOXICOPHL^A. 
 
 Among stove -flowering plants T. spectabilis occupies a useful 
 position, its white scented flowers being produced with great 
 freedom. It is of a rather straggling habit, but with good 
 treatment and carefully pinching and regulating the growth, 
 it can be made to form a fine specimen for exhibition. It 
 grows well under ordinary stove treatment, and should not be 
 over-potted. When the pot is full of roots, weak liquid manure 
 should be applied once or twice a week in the growing and 
 flowering period. 
 
 VINCA. 
 
 The stove species of this genus, V. rosea, and V. r. alba are 
 excellent free-flowering plants, which, when well grown and 
 full of flowers, are very attractive specimens for exhibition. 
 The stems and branches being very flexible, they can be trained 
 into any form. An intermediate temperature suits them best, 
 and they should be potted in light sandy loam with a sixth 
 of well-decayed manure. 
 
 JUBOIJVG. 
 
 In judging stove flowering plants, the chief points^of merit 
 are: (1) Profusion, quality, and freshness of the flowers; 
 (2) large size, brilliancy of colour, and sweet odour when pre- 
 sent ; and (3) size, health, vigour, and cleanness of the plant. 
 
STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 ACALYPHA. 
 
 A beautiful and easily grown genus of foliage plants, which 
 form fine specimens for exhibition when carefully pinched and 
 regulated in their growth. Among the best for this purpose 
 are A. macropliylla and A. musaica. A compost of peat and 
 loam in equal parts and a small portion of silver sand grows 
 them well. They thrive best in a moist stove, where they 
 should be kept near the glass, to obtain plenty of light to 
 fully bring out the beautiful colours and markings of the 
 leaves. 
 
 ALOCASIA. 
 
 This is a highly attractive family of plants, with bold, mas- 
 sive foliage, often curiously shaped, and beautifully marked 
 and coloured. They make grand exhibition specimens when 
 well grown, and are very effective plants in any collection. 
 Some of the best are A. macrorhiaa variegata, A. metalUca, 
 A. Thibautiana, and A. Veitchii. To grow them with the 
 greatest success, they require a high temperature, moist 
 atmosphere, and abundance of water at the root while grow- 
 ing. The pots should be about half-filled with drainage, and 
 the compost be of rich, light turfy loam, peat, and chopped 
 sphagnum, freely sprinkled with nodules of charcoal and sand- 
 stone. Clear liquid manure is very beneficial when the roots 
 have fully occupied the soil. 
 
 ANTHUKIUM. 
 
 The large, handsome, and distinctly marked leaves of some 
 of the Anthuriums are very conspicuous and telling objects in 
 a collection of foliage plants, especially when grown and exhi- 
 bited without a blemish. A. magnificum, A. Veitcldi, and 
 
in STOVE FOLIAGE PLAXT.S. 
 
 A. Warocqueanum are among the best and most distinct for 
 exhibition. Tliey require the same culture and treatment as 
 the Alocasias; giving them liberal supplies of clear liquid 
 manure when they are growing freely, and keeping the air 
 thoroughly saturated with moisture, so as to induce develop- 
 ment in the foliage to its fullest extent. 
 
 AEALIA. 
 
 The Aralias are a very distinct and ornamental class of 
 foliage plants, and the finer forms, such as A. Ghabrieri, 
 A. deijantissivia, A. Regince, A. VeitcMi, and A. Veitcliii gror 
 cillima are in^ great favour with exhibitors of plants for table 
 decoration. They should be grown in light loam and peat, 
 adding a little leaf-mould and sand, according to the texture 
 of the loam. Vigorous young plants produce the finest foliage, 
 and a succession of these should be kept up by cuttings struck 
 in the usual manner, or by grafting the weaker on to the 
 stronger growing kinds. The scion must be neatly and securely 
 fitted to the stock, and they should be kept in a close moist 
 atmosphere until union is complete. Perhaps the best method 
 of securing well-furnished small plants is to notch the stem 
 of a leading shoot at the base of the healthy and perfect 
 foliage, tying a handful of moss over the notch. Keep con- 
 stantly moist, and roots will soon push out, and when the moss 
 is full of them, take off the shoot with the moss and roots 
 intact, and pot them in a light, sharp compost. Keep closely 
 shaded till the roots are through the soil, and then gradually 
 expose to light and air. By this method well-furnished 
 specimens are quickly formed, with perfect foliage from the 
 surface of the pots. 
 
 CALADIUM. 
 
 This is an easily grown and useful class of exhibition plants, 
 the luxuriant growth of their brightly and diversely coloured 
 foliage, forming an excellent contrast with the greenery of 
 other subjects. It is easy to make a selection for exhibition 
 from among the numerous fine varieties now in cultivation. 
 
STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 17 
 
 some of the oldest and best known making grand specimens 
 in a short time under generous treatment. They thrive best 
 in rough fibry loam and peat and silver sand, sprinkled vpith 
 nodules of charcoal and bone-meal. Abundance of water, moist 
 air, and shading from bright sunshine assist in the produc- 
 tion of the finest leaves ; and when the pots become full of 
 roots, liquid manure should be freely applied. When the 
 leaves attain their full size, a drier and more airy atmosphere 
 deepens the colours and makes the plant more hardy for exhi- 
 bition. After the leaves ripen and die off in the autumn, the 
 pots should be laid on their sides in an intermediate tempera- 
 ture ; and special care must be taken to keep them at rest 
 without risk of becoming "dust dry," as the roots are then 
 very liable to become " mealy " and worthless. They are easily 
 propagated by division of the roots, and specimens of any 
 size are readily formed by placing a sufficient number of strong 
 roots or tubers in a pot of the desired size. 
 
 CAELUDOYICA. 
 
 An elegant and useful genus of foliage plants, with a resem- 
 blance to palms in their habits and appearance. C elegmis 
 and G. jMlmata make the best specimens. They grow freely 
 in a moist stove, in a mixture of two parts peat and one of 
 loam, with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. A copious 
 supply of liquid manure, when the plants are growing freely, 
 increases the size of the leaves and the elegance of the plant 
 for exhibition. 
 
 CISSUS. 
 
 In C. discolor we have one of the most beautiful of all 
 the variegated-leaved plants in cultivation. It is a free- 
 growing stove climber, and makes a grand specimen for exhi- 
 bition when brought out in its best condition and neatly 
 trained over a suitable trellis. It thrives well in a compost 
 of rough turfy peat and loam, with a little old mushroom- bed 
 manure and sand, all well incorporated. When the pot is 
 filled with roots, an application once a week of clear liquid 
 
 B 
 
18 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 manure improves the size and brightness of the colour of tlie 
 foliage. Being a deciduous plant, it should be kept rather dry 
 during the winter, receiving just suificient water to keep the 
 wood from shrivelling. It should be pruned, re-potted, and 
 started in a moist stove about three months previous to the 
 show, so as to have the foliage fresh and perfect. Vigorous 
 j'oung specimens produce the finest leaves ; and as the plant 
 is readily increased by cuttings, a succession of plants is easily 
 maintained. 
 
 UKOTOX. 
 
 Almost the whole of the numerous varieties of variegated- 
 leaved Crotons make first-rate exhibition plants, and most of 
 them can be grown into fine specimens in a comparatively 
 short time. They take a high place among foliage plants, and 
 when well grown and their rich colours brought out to perfec- 
 tion, they are objects of great attraction. They grow luxuri- 
 antly in a high temperature, with a close, moist atmosphere; 
 and to obtain that, the ventilators require to be kept rather 
 close, admitting air by the side ones only, and shading the 
 roof to prevent the sun scorching the plants. In such a tem- 
 perature the plants make the largest leaves and freest growth. 
 When the plants have made their growth, the shading should 
 be gradually dispensed with, and all the light and air possible 
 admitted, while keeping up the high temperature, to colour 
 the foliage to perfection. The plants should be thoroughly 
 drenched with the syringe in the afternoon in summer, and in 
 the forenoon in winter. A good syringing with soap-suds — 
 two ounces of soft soap dissolved in a gallon of water is sufii- 
 ciently strong — once a week is beneficial to keep off insects, 
 as well as to give the leaves a clean, healthy appearance. 
 They succeed best in a turfy loam of a medium texture, with 
 a little bone-meal, nodules of charcoal and sandstone added 
 according as the nature of the loam requires them. The pots 
 must be well drained, and the plants must never be allowed 
 to get dry at the root, which immediately affects the foliage 
 and spoils it. Large specimens growing in pots full of their 
 roots may have an occasional «upply of weak liquid manure, 
 
STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 19 
 
 but care mitst be taken not to give it too often or too rich, lest 
 the foliage begin to lose colour. Notching and mossing the 
 stem, as described for Aralias, is the best method for obtain- 
 ing well-furnished small plants. 
 
 CYANOPHYLLUM. 
 
 When grown to perfection, G. magnificwn forms one of 
 the grandest specimens for exhibition among all foliage plants. 
 It thrives best in a high moist temperature, in a compost of 
 turfy loam and peat, freely sprinkled with nodules of charcoal, 
 sandstone, and half -inch bones. It must have perfect drainage, 
 as it delights in abundance of water while growing, but it must 
 not be allowed to stagnate about the roots. When the plant 
 is growing freely, and the pot is well filled with roots, copious 
 supplies of clear liquid manure should be given twice a week, 
 which will grow the leaves to their largest dimensions. On 
 strong well-grown plants they should reach a length of about 
 4 feet, and 2 feet wide. Special attention must be paid to 
 this, and all other large-leaved fine foliage plants, to see that 
 insects do not effect a lodgment on the under side of the leaves, 
 where they quickly multiply and do much harm. Frequent 
 application of the syringe, and the careful use of weak soap- 
 suds in syringing, help much to keep the foliage free from 
 insects, clean, and healthy. The Cyanophyllum should always 
 be grown to a single stem, as the large and finely-marked 
 leaves are displayed with the best effect on such plants. It 
 strikes freely from cuttings of side-shoots taken off with a heel, 
 inserted in sandy peat, and placed in a strong bottom-heat 
 under a bell-glass. Young plants, when well managed, produce 
 the finest leaves, and in a season will make splendid specimens 
 for exhibition. 
 
 DICHOEIZANDEA. 
 
 A pretty genus of stove plants, the flowers of which are 
 often as attractive as the handsome and beautifully marked 
 foliage. Among the best for exhibition as foliage plants are 
 D. metallica jpida, D. mosaica, and D. viUata. They thrive 
 
20 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 best in well-drained pots, in a mixture of equal portions of 
 fibry loam, peat, and leaf-mould, with a sprinkling of silver 
 sand. A moist stove temperature and copious supplies of 
 water at the root, with daily syringings and shade from bright 
 sunshine, grows them well. After the pots are well filled with 
 roots, clear liquid manure may be given once a week ; but it 
 must not be overdone, to cause rank growth and loss of colour 
 in the foliage. They require to have a thorough rest during 
 winter, but they must be kept in the stove and water with- 
 held, as they do not bear cold with impunity. 
 
 DIEFFENBACHIA. 
 
 A free-growing and very effective genus of fine foliage plants, 
 which, under liberal treatment, produce fine exhibition speci- 
 mens in a comparatively short time. Some of the finest for 
 this purpose are D. Baraqidniana, D. Bausei, D, Jenmanii, 
 and D. Weirii superha. Being natives of the tropical parts of 
 South America, they require a high temperature and abundance 
 of moisture to grow them well. They delight in rich open 
 compost, of turfy loam and peat, with leaf-mould and sand 
 freely intermixed, and a little dry cow-dung rubbed down 
 amongst it. After the roots have reached the side of the 
 pots, they are much benefited by frequent doses of clear liquid 
 manure. 
 
 DKACiENA. 
 
 Like the Croton, the Dractena is indispensable to the exhibi- 
 tor of foliage plants. Numerous varieties, with richly coloured 
 leaves and graceful habit, have appeared during recent years, 
 among which it is easy to select good kinds for exhibition. 
 They thrive well in rich fibry loam, with a little peat, sand, 
 and nodules of charcoal, and should be grown in an atmos- 
 phere saturated with moisture and shaded from bright sun, 
 to fully develop the leaves. With abundance of moisture in 
 the air, no syringing should be necessary, and as a rule they 
 are finer without it. Dracaenas are extremely easy to pro- 
 pagate, as every inch of the stem will root and grow, inserted 
 
STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 21 
 
 in sand in a strong bottom-heat. Tall plants, with bare stems 
 and good heads, should be notched and mossed immediately 
 below the leaves ; and as soon as the moss is full of roots, take 
 off the tops and pot them with the moss intact, shading them 
 in a warm moist place till they are well established, and they 
 will soon make nice useful plants. 
 
 FICUS. 
 
 This genus provides many useful plants which are more or 
 less ornamental, the most noteworthy being F. ParcelU. As 
 an exhibition plant it is one of the most striking and attrac- 
 tive. It has also a good habit, and can with very little trouble 
 be grown into a symmetrical specimen. It requires an open 
 compost of loam and peat, and an abundance of water while 
 growing. It should be syringed often to prevent the attacks 
 of red spider, which is its worst enemy. It should be placed 
 near the glass, so that the ivory-white blotches may be well 
 broiTght out on the leaves. The strongest shoots must be 
 pinched, and the others tied into position where necessary, to 
 form a symmetrical well-furnished pyramid. As it approaches 
 the resting period, water should be gradually withheld, and 
 the plants placed in an intermediate temperature. 
 
 HIBISCUS. 
 
 The only one of this genus suitable for cultivation as a fine 
 foliage plant for exhibition is H. Coojieri. It forms a fuie 
 specimen, and in variety of colour it equals, if it does not 
 excel, any other foliage plant in cultivation. In its young state 
 it should be potted amongst fibry loam, peat, sand, and leaf- 
 mould, but when it has attained to a large size, soil of the 
 poorest description should be used in potting — starving it, as 
 it were, into colour. It requires a strong heat and a position 
 close to the glass to bring out the various rich colours in their 
 greatest perfection. 
 
 MAEANTA. 
 
 A genus of useful and easily cultivated plants ; but being 
 natives of moist warm regions, they require careful handling 
 
22 STOVE FOLIAGE PLAXTS. 
 
 to withstand tlie dry cool atmosphere of exhibition tents. 
 Among the best kinds are M. Lindenii and M. Veitcliii. To 
 grow good specimens and bring out the full beauty of their 
 leaves, a high temperature and moist atmosphere are abso- 
 lutely necessary. They thrive well in a mixture of fibry peat 
 and loam, with a small proportion of silver sand and a sprink- 
 ling of bone-meal, and should receive copious supplies of water 
 at the roots when growing. Keep them rather dry in the 
 stove to rest them during winter. 
 
 MUSA. 
 
 A genus of large-leaved noble-looking plants, most of which 
 grow far too tall for ordinary stoves; but M. Cavendishii, 
 M. coccinna, and M. xehrina are well adapted for culture as 
 exhibition plants. Their cultivation is simple and easy if they 
 are kept clean, and a proper degree of heat and moisture main- 
 tained. Under such conditions they soon rush up into large 
 specimens, their handsome leaves producing quite a tropical 
 appearance wherever they are placed. They should be potted 
 in rough rich loam and sand, and when pot-bound they should 
 be heavily top-dressed with rich manure. 
 
 PAXDAXUS. 
 
 A handsome genus of very graceful foliage plants, with 
 leaves mostly of a green colour ; but /'. javam'cus variegatus 
 and P. Veitcliii combine elegance with a fine light variegation, 
 and may be considered the best for exhibition. Young shoots 
 of the purest and slenderest character, springing from the 
 base of the stem, should be taken off with a heel, potted in 
 sandy soil, and plunged in a propagating-house, where they 
 will soon take root. They should be shifted on as they require 
 it, but using small pots in comparison to the size of the plants. 
 When they have reached specimen size, they should be potted 
 in coarse sandy loam, with plenty of pieces of sandstone and 
 charcoal. They should get all the light possible without 
 injury from bright sunshine, to produce perfect variegation. 
 When removing the plants to the exhibition, the leaves should 
 
STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 23 
 
 be tied up to the centre, and carefully wrapped round with 
 cloth, to prevent their spines doing injury to other plants 
 placed near them during transit. 
 
 PAULLIXIA. 
 
 The best of this genus for exhibition is P. tlialidrifolia, the 
 habit of which is scandant, but by close pinching it can be 
 made to assume the bush form, when it very much resembles 
 a specimen of some of the exotic ferns. It forms the best 
 exhibition specimen, however, when it is trained on a balloon 
 or pyramidal trellis. It grows freely when potted in light 
 loamy soil and leaf -mould, kept in a moist warm atmosphere, 
 syringed daily while growing, and supplied with weak liquid 
 manure when the pot is filled with roots. 
 
 I'AYETTA. 
 
 There are few species of decorative foliage plants that equal 
 P. horhimic" in attractiveness, when its beautifully marked 
 leaves are exhibited in their best condition. It is closely allied 
 to Ixora, and succeeds well under similar treatment. The soil 
 best suited for its growth is fibry peat and loam, with a few 
 half-inch bones, and about one-fourth of silver sand. The 
 plant should be repeatedly pinched while young, to make it 
 branch out into a bushy specimen, which it does slowly. After 
 growth is complete, it should be well exposed to the sun, to 
 bring out the beauty of the markings on its leaves. 
 
 PHILOPENDEOX. 
 
 A large genus of tropical plants, of easy cultivation, and 
 among which are some noble-looking specimens for the pur- 
 poses of the exhibitor. Few foliage plants can compare with 
 P. Andreanum for stately effect, and P. Lindenii and several 
 others are nearly as striking and effective. Natives of the 
 warmer parts of America, they luxuriate in a high moist 
 atmosphere, with a rich open soil to grow in, and copious sup- 
 plies of water both at the roots and overhead. When the pots 
 are full of roots, liquid maniure may be freely given with the 
 
24 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 best effect. They are easily propagated by cuttings of the 
 strong stems, which quickly root and form fine plants. 
 
 EHOPALA. 
 
 An elegant genus of fine foliage plants, some of which are 
 very useful for decorative purposes, as well as fvirnishing 
 beautiful specimen plants for the exhibitor. Among the finest 
 are R. corcovadensis, R. elegant issima, and R. Vervceneana, which 
 all grow best in a stove temperature, although they also thrive 
 well in a warm greenhouse. A compost of fibry loam and 
 peat, with charcoal nodules and sand, grows them well. They 
 delight in moisture while making growth, but should be gra- 
 dually exposed to air and light, and, placed in an intermediate 
 temperature, they will retain their foliage in a perfect condi- 
 tion through the whole year, and are thus nearly always avail- 
 able. They strike freely from cuttings placed under a bell- 
 glass in a strong bottom-heat, or the tops may be notched and 
 mossed, when good -sized plants are secured at once. 
 
 SAXCHEZIA. 
 
 The only species of this genus suitable for exhibition as a 
 foliage plant is S. nohili^ variegata. This is a widely cultivated 
 plant, which grows freely, and makes a handsome specimen 
 when its leaves are fully developed and their variegation well 
 brought out. It should be potted in equal parts of fibry loam 
 and peat, with some small bits of charcoal and silver sand. 
 It must be grown near the glass and shaded only to prevent 
 scorching, and have the flowers nipped out as they appear. 
 The leaves should be frequently sponged to keep them clear 
 of aphides, which prove harmful to them when in a young 
 state. 
 
 SOXEEILA. 
 
 This is a genus of beautiful dwarf-growing plants, as much 
 admired for the beauty of their flowers as for their foliage. The 
 best for their foliage are S. margaritacea Hendersonii, S. m. 
 marmorata, and S. m. i^iiperlm, which all possess a branching, 
 
STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 25 
 
 compact habit, and form very neat specimens. They bloom 
 freely, and the flowers look well ; but, like all plants when 
 grown specially for their foliage, the flower-buds should be 
 nipped out as they appear. A compost of two parts fibrous 
 peat and one of chopped sphagnum, sand, and charcoal nodules 
 grows them well. They should receive plenty of water and 
 shade in summer, but be well exposed to the sun nnd kept 
 slightly dry when resting. 
 
 .SPH.EEOGYXE. 
 
 The plants belonging to this genus are highly ornamental, 
 and among the best for exhibition are ,S'. impericdi^ and S. lafi- 
 folia. Under proper treatment their leaves grow to a large 
 size, and form noble-looking plants ; but to secure perfect 
 foliage the plants must be grown in a moist warm temperature 
 and well shaded. They very much resemble the Cyanophyllum, 
 and thrive well under the same treatment. 
 
 TERMIXALIA. 
 
 The only species of this genus suitable as a foliage plant for 
 exhibition is T. elegans. Its persistent habit of growing with 
 a single stem makes it rather difiicult to work into a large 
 specimen. It thrives well in a mixture of loam and peat with 
 about a fourth of silver sand. To produce a large specimen, 
 the plant should be cut down while young, and repeated if 
 necessary to seciu^e iovx shoots, which should be bent outwards 
 and staked, to keep them clear of each other. A native of 
 Madagascar, it luxuriates in a warm moist atmosphere, with 
 plenty of water when growing, but should be kept moderately 
 dry in winter. It is much benefited by a judicious application 
 of liquid manure, like many other foliage plants ; but care 
 must be exercised in its use, as leaves with rich delicate colours 
 are liable to be spoilt if the plants receive too much feeding. 
 
 THEOPHEASTA. 
 
 A genus of stately foliaged plants, with large coriaceous 
 leaves of gi-eat substance and beauty. Of those in cultivation, 
 
20 STOA'E FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 T. mvperialis and T. maeroplnjlla form grand specimens for 
 exhibition. Natives of Brazil, they luxuriate in a strong moist 
 heat while making their growth, with a copious supply of 
 water at the root and overhead. When growth is well ripened, 
 they stand in an intermediate temperature a long time in fine 
 condition. They thrive well in a mixture of fibry loam and 
 peat, with a good sprinkling of half-inch bones and sand ; and 
 while the plant is growing and the roots active, frequent doses 
 of clear liquid manure encourage the development of the 
 largest-sized leaves. 
 
 TILLANPSIA. 
 
 An extensive' genus of beautiful stove plants, most of which 
 are epiphytal, although under proper treatment they thrive 
 well in pots and baskets. Among those cultivated as foliage 
 plants, most of which also produce lovely flowers, the best 
 known are T. musaica, T. splendens, and T. zelyrina. They 
 are an easily grown class ; but while they are making growth 
 they thrive best in a high moist temperature, with a copious 
 supply of water at the root and heavy syringing overhead 
 daily. The compost they delight in is a fibry loam and peat, 
 with a sprinkling of half-inch bones, and nodules of charcoal 
 and sandstone, in well-drained pots. They should be kept 
 rather dry while at rest during the dormant season. 
 
 JUDGING. 
 
 In this class above most others, large size is of small value, 
 unless accompanied by all-round excellence. Under-sized 
 foliage plants are also of little value, however well done they 
 may be. A useful medium size, according to the nature of the 
 j)lant, with every part fully developed, is always preferable. 
 
 The properties of foliage plants are : (1.) Condition, habit, 
 symmetry, and size of the specimen; (2.) the foliage healthy, 
 clean, and peif ect ; and (3.) the colour and variegation of the 
 leaves should be clear, vivid, and in good contrast. 
 
GREENHOUSE FLOWEEIXG TLAXTS. 27 
 
 SECTION III. 
 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 ACACIA. 
 
 A numerous genus of free-flowering and highly ornamental 
 plants, chiefly natives of the temperate regions of Australia, 
 and thriving well in a cool greenhouse. A. armata, A. Drum- 
 mondi, and A. Riceana are among the finest species for exhi- 
 bition. They grow well in equal parts of light turfy loam and 
 peat, with plenty of silver sand and a sprinkling of sandstone 
 and charcoal nodules. The plants should be cut back after 
 flowering, and with the aid of a few degrees more heat, and 
 a thorough syringing overhead twice daily, they will soon 
 break into growth, when they should be re-potted. Give as 
 small shifts as possible, and make the soil quite firm in the 
 pot, so as to induce sturdy and more floriferous growth. The 
 drainage must be ample, so as to allow copious supplies of 
 water to be given during growth, and when the roots have 
 fully occupied the soil a few doses of liquid manure are very 
 beneficial. They are apt to make rampant growth under 
 liberal treatment, and the strongest shoots should be regularly 
 pinched to form a good bushy specimen. Such straggling 
 kinds as A. Riceana may have the shoots run up the roof of 
 the greenhouse on strings till the flowers ajspear, when they 
 can be neatly trained over a suitable trellis for exhibition. 
 Acacias are very hardy greenhouse plants, and after they have 
 made their growth and set their flower-buds, they may be 
 placed out of doors, along with other greenhouse plants, to 
 ripen their wood, and they will flower the better for it nest 
 season. They must be taken back to the greenhouse befoi'e 
 any danger from frost arises. 
 
 ACEOPHYLLr^ir. 
 
 A large specimen of A. venosum, when full of its beauti- 
 ful flower-spikes, has a charming effect among other plants 
 
28 GEEEXIIOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 in a collection. Its pinkish-white flowers are so very dis- 
 tinct from all others that it is always a welcome subject at 
 summer shows. It should be potted in the beginning of 
 March amongst fibrous peat and about one-fovirth of sharp 
 sand, and kept in a cool airy place in the greenhouse. Being 
 of a compact habit, it requires very little tying or trimming, 
 but it must be kept clean by syringing daily during the 
 sunimer. It should be well supplied with water at all times, 
 and a little liquid manure, given two or three times before 
 flowering, tends to develop the flower- spikes to their fullest 
 extent and beauty. 
 
 AGAPANTHUS. 
 
 The blue African lily is a plant that suits itself to almost 
 any treatment, and being of a hardy nature and tenacious 
 of life, its culture is often neglected. It is not a firs't>class 
 exhibition plant, but its graceful arching leaves, independent 
 of its fine flowers, make it a good associate amongst stiffer- 
 growing plants. Two of the best varieties are A. umhellatus 
 flore 2iileno and A. umhellatus ma.nmus. They should be potted 
 amongst rough loam, sand, and decomposed manure, and 
 receive an abundance of both clear water and liquid manure 
 in summer, but should be kept drier in the winter season. 
 
 APIIELEXLS. 
 
 An old-fashioned genus of greenhouse plants, .of a rather 
 straggling habit of growth, but which by skilful treatment 
 make very beautiful and attractive exhibition specimens. 
 Among the finest for that pvirpose are A. macvantha pur- 
 purea, A. {Phaenocoma) prolifera Barnesii, and A. purpurea 
 (jrandiflora. Young plants require to be kept well pinched, 
 to form a good foundation for a large well-furnished specimen. 
 The plants grow well in good fibrous peat and silver sand, 
 with plenty of nodules of charcoal and sandstone sprinkled 
 through it ; draining the pots thoroughly, and potting very 
 firm. As the plants grow, the shoots should be neatly trained 
 in the desired form, using as few stakes as possible, and neatly 
 
gree>;house flowekixg plants. 29 
 
 "threading" the intermediate shoots to keep them into their 
 position. The attractive silvery appearance of their stems 
 and leaves, and the bright rosy-purple of their beautiful 
 "everlasting" flowers, make the Aphelexis always very inte- 
 resting objects. 
 
 AZALEA. 
 
 AVith the exception, perhaps, of the Erica, there is no tribe 
 of greenhouse flowering plants so useful as the Azalea to the 
 exhibitor. The numerous first-class varieties of A. indica 
 which are now in cultivation give the exhibitor a wide choice 
 in selecting the best for his purpose. In flower they make 
 a brilliant and highly attractive display, and are a prominent 
 feature of flower-shows in spring and early summer. A cool 
 greenhouse is their best winter quarters ; and when they are 
 wanted for early spring shows, they must be introduced to 
 heat in due time to get them into flower. They bear mild 
 forcing remarkably well, and from six to eight weeks, accord - 
 ing to the variety, is generally sufiicient to get them into full 
 bloom. A temperature of 55° at night, rising 5° to 10° in 
 the daytime, is better than harder forcing. Keep plenty of 
 moisture in the atmosphere, and shade from bright sunshine. 
 When the flowers begin to expand, reduce both heat and 
 moisture, and gradually harden them off, so as to enable them 
 to stand exposure at the exhibition. They should be re-potted 
 when needful soon after flowering ; using fibry peat, and a 
 little turfy loam and leaf-mould, with a good sprinkling of 
 silver sand and charcoal nodules. Place them in a moist 
 atmosphere, with a heat of 60° to 65° at night, and shade 
 from sunshine till they have made their growth and set their 
 buds, when they should be gradually hardened off, and may 
 be set out of doors in autumn to thoroughly ripen ; moving 
 them into winter quarters before there is any danger of frost. 
 
 BOKONIA. 
 
 The Boronias are a useful and elegant genus of greenhouse 
 plants, and form handsome specimens when properly treated. 
 
;-!0 IJJIEEXIIOCSE FLOWEKIXG PLANTS. 
 
 Am oner the best for exhibition are B. Drummo7idi, B. elaUoi\ 
 Jj. lirdrophijllo, and B. pinnata. They thrive best in fibry 
 peat and loam, with a good sprinkling of sand, and small bits 
 of sandstone and charcoal freely mixed. The pots should be 
 well drained, and the soil made very firm. Young plants 
 should be closely pinched, so as to form good bushy specimens. 
 
 HOUVAKDIA. 
 
 There are many species aud varieties of these useful green- 
 house plants in cultivation. Bouvardias are not often used 
 as exhibition plants, but when they are well cultivated and 
 trained, they make very handsome and attractive specimens. 
 A few of the best varieties for this purpose are Alfred 
 Xeuner, Brilliant, Dazzler, Hogarth, President Garfield; and 
 Vreelandi. They should be potted in a compost of two 
 parts of sandy loam, one of peat, and one of sand and de- 
 composed manure well dried and rubbed down. The best 
 way to gi-ow and train them into specimens is to pinch them 
 well while the plants are young, and keep them near the 
 glass to secure strong, sturdj' growth. The shoots should be 
 spread out like those of a trained Erica, and if the flower- 
 trusses stand erect without stakes, so much the better. When 
 the plants begin to flower, they are greatly benefited by liquid 
 manure from sheep-droppings and soot. 
 
 CAMELLIA. 
 
 For many years the Camellia was- the favourite winter and 
 spring flower, and although it has had to give place to a cer- 
 tain extent to the improved forms of the Chrysanthemum, still 
 as a greenhouse flowering plant it has few rivals. The follow- 
 ing are twelve of the best : Alba plena, Augustine superba, 
 Bella portuensis, C. M. Hovey, Countess of Orkney, Fimbriata, 
 Imbricata, Jubilee, Lavinia Maggi, Mathotiana, Targioni, and 
 Valtevaredo. Their cultivation is similar to that of the 
 Azalea, except that the major part of the compost should be 
 turfy loam, with a little peat, rotted manure, and bone-meal 
 added. The potting, when necessary, should be done after 
 
GKEEMIOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 31 
 
 flowering, and before mucli growth is made ; but oftener a 
 top-dressing of rich soil is all that is required, especially with 
 large plants. A vinery, if not too much shaded, is an escellent 
 house for them to grow in ; but as soon as the growth ib 
 finished the plants should be hardened off, to prepare them 
 for standing in a sheltered place outside. Success for the 
 nest year depends upon judicious watering and perfect ripen- 
 ing of the wood during summer and autumn. The buds should 
 be thinned to one or two on each shoot, and when they begin 
 to swell, the plants should be watered with liquid manure 
 until the flowers are fully expanded. 
 
 CLL-IXTHL'S. 
 
 This is a genus of quick-growing plants, which, although 
 scandant in habit, if well pinched and the shoots regulated, 
 are capable of being grown into neat bushes suitable for 
 exhibition. Two of the best species for the purpose are G. 
 Dampieri and G. puniceum magnificum. The soil best suited 
 for their growth is a rich fibrous loam and peat in equal parts, 
 with a little sand and leaf -mould added. When the flowers 
 appear, a few doses of clear liquid manure greatly improves 
 the quality of the blooms. 
 
 CORKEA. 
 
 A genus of neat-growing, fine showy plants, of easy cul- 
 ture. Two of the best for exhibition are C. cardinalis and 
 G. magnifiea, the former scarlet, and the latter of a white 
 colour. The soil best suited for them is half light loam, the 
 other half consisting of peat, leaf -mould, and sand. The plants 
 should be slightly pruned after flowering, and as soon as they 
 have started to grow, they should be potted, and after their 
 growth is made, treated the same as Camellia. 
 
 C'EASSULA. 
 
 This genus, known also as Kalosanthes, belongs to a succu- 
 lent class of plants, with very pretty flowers, mostly of a 
 scarlet colour, which, when freely pioduced, have a showy and 
 
32 GKEENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 charming effect, C. coceinea and C. jasminea are very suitable 
 subjects for exhibition, especially as amateurs' plants. They 
 should be potted amongst sandy loam in a lumpy state, with 
 the addition of broken pots and bits of old mortar and char- 
 coal. They do not require much water, especially in winter, 
 but a little liquid manure when they are in full growth gives 
 them a vigorous and healthy appearance, and much improves 
 the flowers. They should be trained with the lower branches 
 in a horizontal position, and the others staked thinly and 
 equally over the whole of the half-globe shape. The pinching 
 of the tops to form side-shoots should be all done at once, so 
 that the heads of flowers which appear the following year may 
 be all developed at the same time. 
 
 CYTISUS. 
 
 This is a rather extensive genus, the greenhouse species of 
 which are mostly yellow-flowered compact-growing shrubs, 
 and are very useful decorative plants. The following are 
 among the best for exhibition specimens: — G. canariensis, 
 C. Ecerestianui^, G. filipes, and C. racemosus. They all grow 
 freely from cuttings and seeds, but G. filipes is shown to best 
 advantage when grafted on a stronger-growing species, on a 
 stem about three feet high, where, from its graceful drooping 
 habit, it forms a very beautiful specimen. They grow freely 
 in a compost of fibry loam and peat, with a free sprinkling 
 of sand and charcoal. After they have flowered, they should 
 be pruned into shape and repotted. When carefully handled, 
 they form nice pyramidal specimens ; and when the roots fill 
 the pots, they should be liberally supplied with water and 
 occasional doses of liquid manure till growth is finished. They 
 may then be set out of doors to ripen, and be wintered in a 
 cool house, introducing them into a warmer house if necessary 
 to get them into flower for the show, 
 
 DAPHNE. 
 
 This is a genus of evergreen shrubs, chiefly noted for the 
 sweet perfume of their flowers, and being of a good habit, 
 
GEEENHOTTSE FLO'W'EEIKCt PLANTS. 33 
 
 make, when well grown, fine exhibition plants. Among the 
 best greenhouse kinds are D. elegantissima and D. indica rubra. 
 They grow freely in a compost of peat, leaf-mould, and sand, 
 and require frequent pinching when young, to get them into 
 a nice bushy form. Good drainage and an ample supply of 
 water whUe growing are necessary. To secure a profusion 
 of bloom, the main point to be observed is the thorough ripen- 
 ing of the wood by full exposure to light and air, and keeping 
 the plants rather dry. 
 
 DEACOPHYLLUM. 
 
 The most valuable species of this genus is D. graaile. It 
 makes a fine specimen, either trained on a trellis or pinched 
 and neatly staked out in bush form, and should be in every 
 collection for exhibition. It grows best in rough fibrous peat 
 and one-fifth of silver sand. If trained on a trelKs, the 
 flowering shoots should be carefully brought to the outside 
 before the flowers begin to open. 
 
 EPACEIS. 
 
 This is an elegant genus of plants, which is generally 
 associated with the Erica, and although natives of different 
 countries, they thrive under almost the same conditions. A 
 few excellent kinds for exhibition are Hyacinthiflora can- 
 didissima, H. fulgens, Miniata splendens, Eubra superba, 
 Sunset, and The Bride. The soil best suited for their cul- 
 ture is rough fibrous peat with a liberal addition of silver 
 sand. After the plants have flowered, the strong-growing 
 kinds should be cut down to within two or three eyes of the 
 old wood, the weaker ones being left a little longer. They 
 should be shifted just after -they have started to grow, making 
 the soil very firm, and kept in a close frame till the roots are 
 established in the new soil, after which more air should be 
 given, and the sashes be ultimately removed altogether. It 
 is of much importance in growing the Epacris and Erica that 
 vicissitudes of dryness and heat be guarded against, and there- 
 fore they should never be set in an exposed position, where 
 
34 GKEEXHOrSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 they might eufiEer from heat and drought. The best mode of 
 training is that which exhibits the greatest quantity of flower 
 with the least degree of stiffness or formality. The shoots 
 should be arching gracefully to the outside, and kept in 
 position by neat stakes and green-coloured threads, which 
 should be removed, if possible, when the plants are exhibited. 
 
 ERICA. 
 
 As flowering specimens, the Ericas or Cape Heaths may be 
 considered the standard greenhouse plants for exhibition, and 
 when staged in first-class condition, are universally admired, 
 and stand high in cultural merit. To manage them well, they 
 require a house for themselves, or they may be associated with 
 such hard-wooded greenhouse plants as thrive under somewhat 
 similar conditions. They are a very durable race of plants, 
 and by careful management and strict attention to their re- 
 quirements they can be most successfully grown and exhibited 
 for many years. There are many species and varieties of 
 Erica suitable for exhibition, among which the following hold 
 a prominent place : — E. Aitordana Turnhullii, E. aristata 
 major, E. Cavendislili, E. elegans glauca, E. Marnockiana, E. 
 Ma-s-sonii, E. reioiia major, E. tricolor WiUoni, E. ventrieosa, 
 E. V. sjplendeng, E. ve-stita, and E. Vidorke. The soil they 
 thrive in is good fibry brown peat, torn up into small frag- 
 ments and the finer particles left out ; to this should be 
 added a liberal amount of silver sand, and nodules of charcoal 
 and sandstone, varying the quantity according to the quality 
 of the peat. Drain the pots carefully, and press the soil as 
 firm as possible with the potting-stick, finishing off with a 
 thin layer of fine soil. A judicious and liberal amount of 
 water must be given at the roots at all times, but a more 
 copious supply is necessary during the season of active growth. 
 If the ball of soil once becomes dry, the small fibry rootlets 
 will suffer to such an extent as to cripple the energies of the 
 whole plant, and, if it does not die off in consequence, it will 
 take years to recover itself. The best time to re-pot is when 
 the plants are starting into growth. Large shifts must be 
 
GEEENHOUSE FLOWEEING PLANTS. 35 
 
 avoided ; from a six to an eight-inch pot being enough at one 
 time, and possibly for two or three years, all depending upon 
 the progress and health of the plants. Only enough artificial 
 heat should be applied to the house during winter as will keep 
 out frost and dispel damp; and when heat is employed for 
 the latter pu.rpose, it should be applied during the day and in 
 fine weather, with a little air passing through the ventilators. 
 
 Mildew is the great enemy of those plants, and when it 
 appears, it must be immediately attended to. A slight dusting 
 with flowers of sulphur over the affected part is the best 
 antidote, and this should be done in autumn over the whole 
 stock as a preventive. 
 
 As soon as the plants are done flowering, the old flowers 
 must be carefully removed, and the long shoots pruned or 
 trained into position. In training, it is best to "thread " the 
 shoots into their place with fine but strong green thread, 
 thereby lessening the number of stakes, which injure the roots 
 and are very unsightly when used too freely. This threading 
 is the best method for training the shoots of all such exhi- 
 bition plants, because when neatly done it is scarcely noticed, 
 and the thread lasts longer than any other tying material. 
 
 ERIOSTEMOX. 
 A genus of dwarf evergreen shrubby plants, of a free-flower- 
 ing nature and of easy culture. The different species flower 
 at various seasons, and make a beautiful display when well 
 cultivated. Two of the best for exhibition are E. cuspidatum 
 ruhrum and E. pulchellum. They succeed in a cool airy green- 
 house, and thrive best in a compost of peat and loam in equal 
 proportions, with a good dash of silver sand. Like most hard- 
 wooded plants, they must be firmly potted and carefully 
 watered. 
 
 GEXETYLLIS. 
 This is a small genus of beautiful plants, natives of Aus- 
 traKa, which require careful management to grow them suc- 
 cessfully, but are worth some special care, as they make 
 grand exhibition specimens when they are well done. Among 
 
?.6 GREENHOUSE FLOWEKING PLANTS. 
 
 the finest are G. fimbriata and Q. tulipifera. They grow best 
 in a mixture of peat and turfy loam, with a free sprinkling of 
 silver sand ; draining the pots well to prevent stagnant water 
 from lodging about the roots. They grow well in a cool house 
 along with heaths, and flower in early summer. 
 
 FUCHSIA. 
 
 When the Fuchsia is in good form and profusely flowered, 
 it is a very striking feature in an exhibition. With the 
 amateur it is a particular favourite, and is perhaps the most 
 frequently seen of all plants in the cottager's window. A few 
 of the best varieties for exhibition are Clipper, Emperor, 
 Eynsford Gem, Lucy Finnis, Phenomenal, and Walter Long. 
 The Fuchsia is very easy to propagate by cuttings, which, 
 with liberal treatment, will form good specimens for exhi- 
 bition in the second year. After attaining the desired size, 
 the plants may be exhibited for a number of years, it due 
 attention is paid to their management. Starting with a year- 
 old plant, it should be pruned into shape, and placed in heat 
 to break early in March. The temperature of a vinery suits 
 it well at this season. When the growth is about an inch in 
 length, the plant should be shaken out of the pot, the strongest 
 roots pruned, and the plant replaced in the smallest pot the 
 roots will easily fit into, in a mixture of sandy loam and leaf- 
 mould. When the roots reach the side of the pot, the plant 
 should be shifted into one two sizes larger, using a rich com- 
 post of fibrj' loam, well-rotted manure, bone-meal, and wood 
 ashes, with suflicient sharp sand to keep all sweet. As soon 
 as the roots run freely in the new soil, remove the plant to the 
 greenhouse, where, by a judicious application of liquid manure, 
 pinching off the flowers till wanted, stopping the shoots, and 
 careful training, a fine pyramidal plant can be grown during 
 the season, which will form a splendid specimen for exhibition 
 in the autumn. 
 
 IMANTOPHYXLUM. 
 
 A small genus (known also as Olivia) of remarkably handsome 
 plants, and very useful for exhibition. New varieties are being 
 
GREENHOUSE FLO WEEING PLANTS. 3i 
 
 raised, with a riclmess of colour and beauty wHch may soon 
 displace the older kinds, and furniish a good variety for selection 
 of this most useful, easily groim, and ornament.al class of green- 
 house plants. A few of the best varieties of I. miniatum 
 are Aurantiacum, Giganteum, Genei-al Gordon, Perfection 
 Splendens, and Superbum. They thrive well in a strong 
 rich turfy loam, with a third part of sand and leaf-mould 
 added. After the plants have attained to specimen size, 
 they should not be potted every year, but be top-dressed 
 with a rich mixture of soil and manure. They flower better 
 when pot-bound than when allowed too much root-room. They 
 should be kept in the warmest end of the greenhouse, and 
 be suppKed with weak liquid manure when in active growth. 
 The flowering may be forwarded, if required, by placing them 
 in a vinery or forcing-house, as they beai- heat and forcing 
 well. 
 
 LAPAGEPJA, 
 
 The well-known and popular L. rona and its white variety 
 are magnificent evergreen climbing plants, and when trained 
 on a balloon trellis make splendid exhibition specimens. To 
 flower them well, they require a light airy position in the 
 house close to the glass, so as to thoroughly mature the wood, 
 for on this, to a great extent, depends the quantity and 
 quahty of the flowers It Ls a good plan to train the young 
 shoots on strings stretched along the house near the glass, 
 until they complete their growth and show flower, when they 
 should be brought down and regularly trained over the trellis, 
 arranging the flowers that they may all show on the out.side 
 of the specimen when they are fully expanded. The plants 
 should be potted in rough turfy peat and loam, with lumps of 
 white sandstone and charcoal, and a sprinkling of bone-meaL 
 The pots should be well drained, as the roots require an 
 abundance of water during the time of growth, and weak 
 liquid manure, given once a week, after the pots are filled with 
 roots, will greatly benefit the plants. 
 
38 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 LASLAI^DEA. 
 
 This genus is now generally included under Pleroma, but 
 the beautiful free-flowering species known in gardens as Lasi- 
 andra maerantha floribunda makes such a fine specimen that 
 it deserves special notice, as with proper treatment it is among 
 the very best of flowers, of an attractive rich violet-purple 
 colour. The plant thrives well in light turfy loam with a 
 sprinkling of bone-meal. In such soil, and in a warm green- 
 house, it makes a vigorous sturdy growth, which, by careful 
 pinching and regulating, eventually forms a grand specimen. 
 The large flowers are freely produced on the ends of the shoots, 
 and a judicious application of clear liquid manure for a fort- 
 night before they begin to open adds to their size, brilliancy, 
 and endurance. The plants flower best when pot-bound, and 
 when they have attained specimen size they will thrive and 
 flower in profusion for years without shifting, if due attention 
 is given to top-dressing, and feeding them with liquid manure 
 when growth is taking place, as well as when they are coming 
 into flower. 
 
 LESCHENATJLTIA. 
 
 This is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants, the shrubby 
 species of which are of great value for exhibition when they 
 are staged in first-class condition. The two best kinds are 
 L. biloha major and L. foifnosa. These plants very much re- 
 semble heaths, but being scarcely so hardy, they require more 
 heat in winter, otherwise a heath-house suits them well. Like 
 most of the New Holland plants, they thrive best in sandy 
 peat. They should not be too much confined in the pots, but 
 be shifted on as they require it, taking care not to give too 
 much water when the plants are newly potted. The same 
 mode of training as that recommended for the Heath suits 
 them well. 
 
 LILIUM. 
 
 This is a geniis of bulbous plants, comprising a large number 
 of species, with splendid flowers, all eminently useful for exhi- 
 
GREENHOUSE FLOWEKING PLANTS. 39 
 
 bition, and being easily managed, they ought to be more 
 widely cultivated amongst amateurs than is the case. The best 
 species, are L. auratum and L. speciosum, with their numerous 
 varieties. The soil best suited for their culture is one-half turfy 
 loam, one-fourth peat or leaf -mould and sharp sand, and one- 
 fourth of decayed cow-manure, with some bone-meal added. 
 To secure early specimens, a few pots should be exposed to the 
 influence of sun in the beginning of February, and a little 
 water given to start them. When the shoots are an inch 
 above the soil, the bulbs should be turned out of the pots, and 
 all the old soil picked clear away without injuring the young 
 roots. Clumps of from three to eight bulbs, according to the 
 kind, should be potted in well-drained 12 -inch pots, pressing 
 the soil firm about the roots, and leaving a little space for sur- 
 face-dressing. The plants should then be placed close to the 
 glass in a frame where frost cannot reach them, and watered 
 very sparingly till the roots are well through the soil. An 
 abundance of air should be allowed to play amongst the leaves 
 on all favourable occasions, that they may be firm and leathery 
 from the bottom of the shoot upwards, otherwise they will fall 
 off prematurely and weaken and disfigure the plant. After 
 the buds are set, liquid manure from soot and sheep-droppings 
 should be given once a week until the flowers begin to open. 
 The plants may be kept in the greenhouse to bring them in 
 early, or set in a sheltered place outside to keep them back. 
 If they are outside, the pots should be protected from the sun, 
 and a cool moist air maintained around them. The flowering 
 shoots should be supported with neat green-painted stakes, 
 and the leaves kept clean by sponging. After flowering the 
 plants should be gradually dried to ripen them, but the soil 
 should never get dust dry even while the bulbs are at rest. 
 
 NEEIUM. 
 
 This old-fashioned plant, N. Oleander, although nearly for- 
 gotten in gardens, may still be seen struggling for existence 
 in some cottager's window or amateur's greenhouse, with long 
 straggling branches and a few small flowers haK-way up the 
 
40 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 shoots, when, by giving a short rest to the plants and judi- 
 cious pruning and pinching of the growth, with a little warmth 
 when making wood, fine bushy plants with a profusion of 
 bloom would be the result. N. 0. 7-ubriim and N. 0. album are 
 the two best for exhibition. Unless the plants are wanted for 
 forcing earlier, they should be pruned in March, and started by 
 watering and placing them in mild heat, such as is afforded to 
 a newly started vinery. After the shoots are several inches 
 long, the plants should be taken to the warm end of the 
 greenhouse, and the growth regulated and pinched if neces- 
 sary. When the flower-buds appear, all terminal shoots should 
 be pinched, and the plants regularly watered with weak liquid 
 manure once or twice a week. After flowering, the ripening 
 of the wood and resting of the plants are necessary to future 
 success. 
 
 PIMELEA. 
 
 A genus of shrubby plants, mostly with white flowers, which 
 they produce in great abundance, and are specially attractive 
 as exhibition plants. Two of the best are P. Hendersonii and 
 P. spedabilis rosea. Being natives of New Holland, the soil 
 that suits them best is fibry peat with a little loam, leaf- 
 mould, and sand. When necessary, they should be shifted in 
 early spring, but large plants continue to do well for several 
 years with a top-dressing only. Although they do not force 
 well, they can, by being subjected to a gentle moist heat, be 
 brought into flower earlier than if grown in the greenhouse. 
 They are the better of a little heat to start them, because it 
 gives longer time to ripen their wood in autumn, which is very 
 important for the success of these plants. They are of a bushy 
 habit of growth, and require very little training, except pinch- 
 ing the strong shoots, and regulating the others to get them 
 into proper form. 
 
 PLEROMA. 
 
 A genus of very ornamental shrubs, with showy blue and 
 purple flowers and ovate acuminate-shaped leaves of a shining 
 green colour. The best for exhibition is P. elegans. The same 
 
GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 41 
 
 kind of soil and general culture recommended for Pimelea 
 suits them well, except that they have a straggling habit, and 
 require to be trained into conical shape, to show off the flowers 
 to the best advantage. A large specimen, well furnished with 
 healthy foliage and a profusion of flowers, stands high as an 
 exhibition subject. 
 
 PLUMBAGO. 
 
 P. capensis and P. rosea coccinea are the best exhibition 
 plants of this genus. They are easily managed, and being 
 rapid growers, can be trained into a large specimen in a short 
 time. They thrive well in equal parts sandy loam, peat, and 
 well-decayed manure, with a little silver sand. They should 
 be neatly staked, so that the panicles of flower be all placed in 
 the best position to be well seen, and drooping free and grace- 
 fully all over the plant. They should be liberally fed with 
 hquid manure previous to flowering. 
 
 POLYGALA. 
 
 A genus of showy plants of easy culture. The best of the 
 greenhouse species are P. acuminata and P. grandis. They 
 thrive best in a mixture of peat and loam in equal parts and 
 some sharp sand. They should be trained in bush form, as 
 they break freely when the growth is pinched ; and if supplied 
 with liquid manure when growing, they form dense and pro- 
 fusely flowered bushes. 
 
 RHODODENDRON. 
 
 This genus of beautiful flowering shrubs is so well known 
 and highly appreciated that its excellent qualities need not be 
 commented on here. Our remarks are almost entirely restricted 
 to the greenhouse kinds or Indian species. Some of the best 
 and freest flowering, including the new hybrids, are Balsam- 
 inseflorum and its varieties. Album and Aureum, Denisonii, 
 Duchess of Edinburgh, Jasminiflorum carminatum, M'Nabii, 
 President, Princess Alexandra, Taylori, and Virginalis. The 
 
42 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 cultivation of Rhododendrons in pots and boxes has to be con- 
 ducted with great care and consideration ; any mistake in 
 allowing the plants to get dry, which, from the nature of the 
 soil they grow in, is very apt to be the case unless they are 
 closely watched, may ultimately result in failure. They may 
 also be over-watered, which is equally ruinous, but which only 
 occurs through imperfect drainage. The soil they succeed best 
 in is rich fibrous peat with a little leaf-mould, and rough 
 silver sand sufficient to keep the whole open. Large plants do 
 not require to be often re-potted, but they should be annually 
 top-dressed in spring, with the same compost and rich decayed 
 manure. 
 
 They should also be watered with weak liquid manure, to 
 assist them in developing their flower-trusses to the greatest 
 perfection. Very little training is needed for large speci- 
 mens, except tying the shoots to keep them clear of each 
 other, and equalising the space in which they have to grow. 
 Damp on the flowers should be guarded against, and no water 
 allowed on the foliage while the plants are in bloom. The 
 flowering shoots should be well supported, to prevent them 
 shaking when being removed to the exhibition. 
 
 Hardy Rhododendrons are sometimes exhibited, and a grand 
 display they make when in full flower. Instead of pot culture 
 for this purpose, the plants should be grown on a peat border 
 specially prepared for them. They ahovild be transplanted 
 every second year to confine the roots, and when wanted, they 
 can be lifted and potted after the buds are set and matured, 
 and afterwards transferred to the greenhouse to bloom. 
 
 EHYNCHOSPERMUM. 
 
 R. jasminoides is the only species of this genus of import- 
 ance as an exhibition plant. When it is properly grown and 
 trained into a large and profusely flowered specimen, it has 
 an attractive appearance, and is of considerable weight in 
 competition. It grows freely in a mixture of loam and peat, 
 with a little silver sand and charcoal. It should be trained 
 on a balloon trellis ; but in order to get it into a proper 
 
GREENHOUSE FLOWERIJfG PLANTS. 43 
 
 flowering condition, the shoots should be run up thinly on 
 strings close under the glass until the flowers begin to appear, 
 when they should be taken down carefully and trained 
 equally over the trellis, turning the leaves and flowers out- 
 wards during the operation. Weak liquid manure should 
 at this time be given twice a week, and continued until the 
 flowers are well expanded. 
 
 STATICE. 
 
 Amongst greenhouse flowering plants the Statice has few 
 rivals, and a large specimen, well flowered, has a verj' imposing 
 effect in a collection of exhibition plants. They are best shown 
 to advantage when the flowers are newly developed, as they 
 have a rather faded appearance afterwards. They are of a 
 compact habit of growth, and require a warm greenhouse 
 during winter ; but ordinary greenhouse temperature suits 
 them well during summer. S. Holfordi, S. imbrieata, and 
 S. profusa are the best for exhibition. They thrive best in 
 turfy loam, leaf-mould, and thoroughly decayed manure, with 
 a sprinkling of sharp sand and bone-meal. During active 
 growth a little weak manure-water is a good stimulant. 
 When large specimens have been secured, they are difficult to 
 handle, and are not easily re-potted, which, however, is not 
 necessary, as the surface soil can be removed to a depth of a 
 few inches, and the space filled up with rich compost, into 
 which the roots will soon run and luxuriate. They are easilj' 
 raised from cuttings of half-ripened wood, put in about mid- 
 summer in sand and fine peat, placing them in mild bottom- 
 heat till thej' are rooted. The tops of the shoots can also be 
 notched and mossed, the same as directed for Aralias, and 
 when the moss is filled with roots, the tops can be taken off 
 and potted, keeping them shaded till they are growing freely, 
 and they will make nice plants in much less time than 
 
44 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 TETEATHECA. 
 
 This is a favourite genus with exhibitors of hardwood green- 
 house plants, and furnishes some of the most attractive speci- 
 mens in that class. The best for exhibition are T. ericaefolia, 
 T. hirsuta, and T. veriicillata. Like all New Holland plants, 
 they thrive well in a mixture of fibry peat and silver sand, 
 with a free sprinkling of nodules of charcoal and sandstone. 
 They require to be well drained and firmly potted, and, like all 
 this class of fine-rooted plants, they must have an abundant 
 supply of water at the roots while growing, and careful atten- 
 tion to watering at all times, so that they never become dry, 
 which quickly proves fatal to them. The shoots should be care- 
 fully regulated, and neatly staked in bush form, " threading " 
 the majority of the finer stems, so that the specimen is not 
 overloaded with stakes, — a very unnecessary and objectionable 
 feature in all hard-wooded specimen plants. 
 
 VALLOTA. 
 
 V. purpurea, or Cape Lily, is an evergreen bulbous plant 
 from South Africi, which forms a fine flowering specimen for 
 autumn shows. When well flowered it has a brilliant appear- 
 ance, the rich scarlet flowers forming a fine contrast with the 
 deep green foliage. Select the best bulbs, and pot them before 
 the roots start in rough fibry loam, sharp sand, and dry well- 
 rotted manure. No water should be given till the roots are 
 started, after which they may be set in a cold frame, exposed 
 to the sun with plenty air, and be liberally fed as soon as 
 flower-scapes appear. If wanted in flower at a given time, 
 they can be pushed forward in a mild forcing heat. 
 
 JUDGING. 
 The chief points in judging greenhouse flowering plants are 
 — (1.) Size and freshness of flowers and profusion of blooms; 
 (2.) richness, purity, and substance of petals; and (3.) size, 
 health, and vigour of the plant. 
 
GKEENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLAJSTTS. 45 
 
 SECTIOX IV. 
 GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 ABUTILON. 
 
 A useful genus of ornamental foliage plants, the flowers of 
 which are also highly attractive. The variegated kinds make 
 handsome exhibition specimens when properly treated, the 
 beautifully marked foliage having a very pleasing effect. 
 Among the best for exhibition purposes are A. Danoinii 
 tesselatum, A. Sellovianum marmoratum, and A. vexillarium 
 igneum. They are easily cultivated, and grow freely in a 
 compost of Kght turfy loam, peat, leaf-mould, and silver sand. 
 The drainage should be perfect, as they delight in a copious 
 supply of moisture at the root while growing, but it should 
 never be -allowed to become stagnant. The shoots must be 
 regularly pinched and trained as they grow, to form neat sym- 
 metrical specimens. They should be grown in comparatively 
 small pots, applying clear liquid manure to cause them to 
 make free growth and large leaves ; and as the growth attains 
 maturity they should be exposed to all the light and air pos- 
 sible to bring out the rich colours of the foliage to the greatest 
 perfection. 
 
 AKALIA. 
 
 Among the Aralias which thrive weU in the greenhouse 
 are several handsome kinds useful to the exhibitor, such as 
 A. (Oreopanax) dadylifolia, A. Sieboldii argentea, and A. tri- 
 foliata. They are easUy cultivated in a compost of equal parts 
 of turfy loam, peat, and leaf-mould, with a free sprinkling of 
 silver sand and nodules of charcoaL Abundance of water 
 must be given whilst growth is taking place. The finest 
 leaves are put forth in a rather close moist atmosphere, but 
 special care is necessary to prevent the growth being drawn, 
 and air must be given on all favourable occasions. They are 
 easily propagated by notching and mossing the tops of the 
 best furnished shoots. 
 
46 GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 AEAUCARIA. 
 
 An interesting genus of coniferous plants with a symme- 
 trical habit of growth and pleasing appearance. When the 
 specimens are brought out in their best form, they are an 
 effective feature in an exhibition. The best for this purpose 
 are A. excelsa glauca and A. Rulei elegans. They grow freely 
 in good fibry loam mixed with a little leaf-mould and sharp 
 sand. The coolest part of the greenhouse suits them well, and 
 when they have attained specimen size they should be kept in 
 rather small pots to prevent too rapid growth. 
 
 AKUNDO. 
 A small genus of plants belonging to the order Graminese. 
 The variegated species A. Dona.e variegata makes a tall, slender, 
 graceful plant, and when well grown and the stems clothed 
 with fresh and perfectly coloured leaves, it has a stately, airy 
 appearance. A native of Southern Europe where it grows by 
 the water-side, indicates the treatment it should receive when 
 grown in pots. A mixture of fibry loam, peat, and sharp river 
 sand suits it well. 
 
 BAMBUSA. 
 
 This is a genus of graceful plants, chiefly natives of semi- 
 tropical countries, where they supply the natives with numerous 
 articles of daily use in domestic life and for constructive pur- 
 poses. The bamboo- cane is the stem of one of the species, 
 and is a valuable plant in the rural industry of the countries 
 where it grows naturally. Among the best for cultivation as 
 exhibition specimens are B. awea, B. Fortunei variegata, B. 
 gracilis, B. Siinonii, and B. striata, which all grow well under 
 the same treatment as the Arundo. A few applications of 
 liquid manure are beneficial to these plants while they are 
 growing. 
 
 BEAUCAENEA. 
 
 A genus of plants with gracefully pendant leaves, from two 
 to three feet long. They have a slender stem with a thick 
 swelling at the base, a peculiarity which at once attracts the 
 
GEEENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLxVXTS. 47 
 
 attention and excites the interest of those who see it for the 
 first time. Among the best species are B. glauca, B. longi- 
 foUa, and B. recurvata, and all are natives of Mexico. They 
 gi-ow well in rich sandy loam, leaf-mould, sand, and a 
 sprinkling of charcoal. They should be encouraged to grow 
 by placing them in a little heat during the spring months, 
 after which they should be placed in the greenhouse, and 
 supplied with weak liquid manure once a week, and an abun- 
 dance of clear soft water at all times. They are very slow 
 growers; but if these instructions are carried out, it will be 
 found that they make good exhibition specimens in a com- 
 paratively short time. 
 
 CLEYERA.. 
 
 The beautiful-leaved C. japonica variegata makes a very 
 handsome plant, and forms a fine exhibition specimen when 
 in first-rate condition, and foui- to five feet high. It thrives 
 well in Hght sandy loam and peat, and it should receive an 
 Occasional dose of liquid manure when the pot is full of roots. 
 A cool house suits it best. 
 
 COB.EA. 
 
 The free-growing and attractive greenhouse climber C. 
 scaiidens variegata is the best plant of this genus for making 
 a suitable specimen for exhibition, and when in its best con- 
 dition and neatly trained on a pyramidal trellis, it has a very 
 fine efiiect. A mixture of sandy loam and peat in equal parts, 
 with a free sprinkling of sand and leaf-mould, grows it well. 
 The colour of the foliage assumes its finest tints when the 
 plant is a little pot-bound ; and when in that state it requires 
 the aid of liquid manure to grow its leaves to their largest 
 dimension and finest colour. It comes true from seed, but the 
 best way to secure fine variegation is to strike cuttings taken 
 off a weU-coloured plant. 
 
 COPKOSIVU. 
 
 Of this neat-habited genus of pretty-leaved plants, C. Bauer- 
 iana variegata is the only suitable species for cultivating as 
 a foliage plant for exhibition. It is of a shrubby habit of 
 
48 GEEENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 growth and very distinct in the variegation of its leaves. It 
 should be potted in two-thirds loam and one-third of sharp 
 sand and leaf mould. After potting in spring, the plants 
 should receive a little heat till the growth is made, after 
 which the leaves will colour best in a cool greenhouse. They 
 can be trained into a pyramid by frequent pinching ; but as a 
 longer time is required to produce a specimen than by tying 
 the shoots on a trellis, the grower can adopt the style of 
 training which best su.its his purpose. 
 
 CYCAS. 
 
 This is a genus of stately plants, very often included amongst 
 palms, although they belong to an entirely distinct family, 
 but possibly the derivation of the name, which is Greek for a 
 palm, accounts for the mistake. Two excellent species for 
 exhibition purposes are G. circinalis and the G. revoluta. 
 They should be grown in strong loam and sharp sand, taking 
 care not to over-pot them, but rather to feed well when the 
 pots get filled with roots. With the best of treatment they 
 require a number of years to make a specimen ; but when they 
 have a stem of three feet or more, with a large crown of dark 
 green healthy leaves they are among the best of foliage 
 plants. 
 
 DASYLIRIOX. 
 
 A genus closely allied to Yucca, which it resembles in 
 character. The leaves of some of the species, however, are 
 long, narrow, and pendulous, and they form very graceful and 
 interesting specimens for exhibition. Two of the best species 
 with this habit are D. acrotrichum gracile, and D. glaueo- 
 phyllum plumosum. They should be potted in loam, with 
 some peat, sand, and nodules of charcoal. A judicious appli- 
 cation of liquid manure secures the finest foliage, upon which 
 the merit of this class of plants entirely depends. 
 
 DEAC^NA. 
 
 The best of the greenhouse Dracaenas or Cordylines are 
 D. indivisa Veitchii, D. rubra, and D. strida congesta. These 
 
C4KEENH0USE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 49 
 
 plants, when well grown and furnished with leaves to the base, 
 have a noble and graceful appearance, and are high-class 
 exhibition plants. They shoiild be potted in a mixture of 
 rough turfy loam and peat, with leaf-mould and nodules of 
 charcoal. Plenty of water while growing, and a judicious 
 supply of liquid manure, produces the finest leaves, which 
 colour well with exposure to light and air. 
 
 EURYA. 
 
 All the species of this genus are evergreen shrubs, of which 
 
 E. latifoUa variegata, a Japanese plant with particularly 
 beautiful leaves, is the finest foHage subject for exhibition. 
 It is of a compact habit, and can easily be grown and trained 
 into a handsome specimen. It succeeds well in equal parts of 
 good fibry loam and peat, and grows freely in a cool house. 
 
 FICUS. 
 
 Several species of this genus which thrive well in the 
 stove may also be included in greenhouse plants, as they suc- 
 ceed well under the treatment, except that they are all the 
 better of a little extra heat while making their growth. The 
 most ornamental and finest for exhibition of this class are 
 
 F. Cooperii, F. dealbata, and F. elastica variegata. They grow 
 well in rich fibry light loam mixed with peat and sand, and 
 grown in rather small pots. Liquid manure and a free use 
 of the syringe increases the size and beauty of the foliage. 
 
 GEEVILLEA. 
 
 This is a handsome genus of plants, chiefly from New 
 Holland. The best species with ornamental foliage are G. 
 elegans and G. rohusta. They require to be grown in equal 
 parts of turfy loam and peat, with a sprinkling of bone-meal 
 and silver sand. 
 
 HOYA. 
 
 This is a genus of climbing plants with beautiful waxy 
 flowers. The species have all leaves more or less ornamental, 
 but the only plant with rich coloured foliage is H. carnosa 
 
 D 
 
50 GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 
 
 variegata. The most suitable soil to grow it well is a thin 
 loam and peat, with a good sprinkling of silver sand. It 
 should be trained on a pyramidal trellis with the leaves 
 freely exposed to the sun, so that the rich colour may be well 
 brought out. 
 
 HYDEANGEA. 
 
 Although this genus has many species and varieties with 
 splendid heads and panicles of bloom, it has only one variety 
 worthy of a place amongst exhibition foliage plants, viz., 
 H. liortensis japoniea variegata. The plant should be kept 
 moderately dry, and rested during winter; and, after being 
 started in the spring, it should be partially shaken out and 
 shifted into the same-sized pot, using rather poor loam, a 
 little leaf soil, and sand. It should be kept near to the glass 
 in l^e coolest part of the house, and supplied with plenty of 
 water during the time of growth. The flower-buds should 
 be pinched out as they appear, and the shoots regulated and 
 trained into position. 
 
 LOMATIA. 
 
 This is a genus of graceful-habited plants of considerable 
 beauty and value for exhibition. The best of the species are 
 L. elegantissima, L. ferruginea, and L. heteropliylla. They 
 thrive in a compost of light loam, peat, and silver sand, and 
 require an abundance of water while making growth, during 
 which a few doses of liquid manure greatly improves the 
 foliage. 
 
 MUSA. 
 
 The only species of this valuable genus of tropical plants 
 which may be cultivated in a greenhouse for exhibition speci- 
 mens are M. ensete and M. superba. These are two very 
 handsome foliage plants when they are well grown and 
 furnished with an ample head of their handsome leaves. They 
 require a strong rich loamy soil to grow in, with a little extra 
 heat and a copious supply of water when they are making 
 growth. Their large broad leaves, with stout bright crimson 
 mid -ribs, are very effective objects among the other denizens 
 of the greenhouse, and with a little careful management they 
 make grand specimen foliage plants. 
 
GKEENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 51 
 
 PHOEMIUM. 
 
 A genus of useful as well as highly ornamental foliage plants 
 belonging to New Zealand. The best variegated kinds are 
 P. Colensoi variegatum, P. tenax variegatum, and P. t. Veitchii. 
 They are free growers, and should be potted in strong rich 
 loam and sharp sand, and confined in comparatively small 
 pots, to bring out the variegation in its best shades. 
 
 YUCCA. 
 
 The variegated forms of this genus are very handsome 
 ornamental foliage plants, and should find a place in every 
 collection. The besb of them for exhibition are T. aloifoUa 
 quadricolor, Y. a. variegata, and T. filamentosa variegata. They 
 grow freely in rich sandy loam and leaf-mould, and sutceed 
 very well in an ordinary greenhouse, although they wUl make 
 specimens quicker in a warmer house. When they have 
 attained a desirable size, they may remain in the same pots 
 for several years, if they receive plenty of water and are 
 regularly fed with liquid manure while they are making 
 growth. At all other times they thrive best when kept 
 rather dry, but not so much as to make them show any 
 signs of flagging ; and they should always be exposed to all 
 the light and air possible, to bring out the colours of the 
 leaves to perfection. They are easily propagated by notching 
 and mossing the tops, and they are also readily increased from 
 the side-shoots, which spring freely from the stem when the 
 top is cut off. These, with a heel to them, strike quickly in 
 sandy soil in a good bottom-heat. 
 
 JUJDGINCf. 
 
 The chief points in judging foliage plants are : (1.) Healthy, 
 clean, and perfect leaves of a graceful form ; (2.) the colour 
 should be fresh, clear, and well defined ; and (3.) the specimen 
 should be well grown, amply furnished with foliage, and the 
 outline handsome and pleasing. 
 
ti2 OECHIDS. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 ORCHIDS. 
 
 The Natural Order Orchidacese is a very extensive one, com- 
 prising many genera with numerous species and varieties, 
 representatives of which are met with in nearly every part of 
 the world. The flowers produced by some of the tropical 
 species are unsurpassed for brilliancy and beautiful colouring, 
 and the scientific interest possessed by others claims for them 
 a place in public favour. A fine display of orchids at an 
 exhibition is always a point of great attraction to the visitors 
 as well as to the connoisseur. 
 
 In selecting orchids for exhibition, special attention should 
 be given to those of a free-flowering nature, with large showy 
 flowers, rich in attractive colours, of a pleasing odour, and 
 having an imposing appearance when the plant is in full 
 bloom. In order to grow the various classes of orchids to 
 perfection, it is considered necessary to have three houses, 
 or three divisions in a range of houses, set apart for them, 
 and usually known as the "East-Indian," "Mexican," and 
 " Peruvian " house, respectively. These houses should be 
 constructed and arranged specially to meet the wants of 
 orchids requiring either tropical, temperate, or cool treatment. 
 The ventilation and heating must be fully equal to all possible 
 demands, and an abundant supply of soft clear water must 
 always be at command. The heating apparatus should be 
 capable of supplying a night temperature of 70° to the East- 
 Indian house, 60° to the Mexican house, and 50° to the 
 Peruvian house, in all conditions of weather. The houses 
 should be fitted in their interiors so that the plants can 
 always be grown near the glass, as they mostly require all 
 the light they can get on dull days, and the necessary shade 
 from bright sunshine can always be given with proper appli- 
 ances. When shade is required, it is best applied by move- 
 able scrim canvas, of the proper thickness to give the desired 
 
OECHIDS. 53 
 
 amount of shade, working on a roller with pulley and rope, 
 so that it may be run down or up at pleasure, as the state of 
 the weather renders necessary. 
 
 The cultural requirements of orchids demand careful study 
 and considerable experience to enable the grower to have them 
 in perfection at a given date for exhibition. With a know- 
 ledge of the conditions under which they thrive in their 
 natural habitats, and the length of time they require to make 
 and ripen their growth, and the period at which they have to 
 be started to have them in full flower by a certain date, an 
 exhibitor will be on the right road to success, especially as 
 many species are easily forced if late, and as easily retarded 
 if too early. The packing of orchids for transport to an 
 exhibition requires special attention, and the utmost care 
 should be taken to support every flower-stem and every flower 
 by proper stakes standing well over the spikes, which are 
 securely tied to them, using a layer of wadding round each 
 stake and flower-stem, and tying with soft flat raflia. The 
 flowers should also be kept in position, and safe from being 
 rubbed in transit, by pads of wadding placed around and 
 between them, and secured by a tie when necessary for safety. 
 When the specimens are set on the exhibition table, every 
 scrap of packing material — stakes, wadding, and ties — must 
 be removed, so that the specimens may appear as natural as 
 possible. 
 
 AEEIDES. 
 
 A large genus of epiphytal orchids, the name of which is 
 derived from the fact that most of the species obtain their 
 nourishment from a moisture-laden atmosphere. Many of the 
 species are very handsome plants, freely producing beautiful 
 spikes of richly coloured flowers, and forming most useful 
 specimens to the exhibitor. Among the finest species for 
 exhibition are A. affine, A. Fieldingi, and A. Lobhii, all noted 
 for their long drooping spikes of delightfully fragrant flowers, 
 which, although not so showy as the flowers of some other 
 genera, have a very telling effect in a competitive collection. 
 
 Specimen plants are best grown in perforated pots, three 
 
54 ORCHIDS. 
 
 parts filled with clean-washed potsherds and lumpy charcoal ; 
 using live sphagnum only for placing a few of the lower roots 
 in, leaving the majority of them to ramble free in the air. 
 The old material should be very carefully washed out from 
 the tangled roots in a tub of soft tepid water, and then the 
 plant set on a layer of moss pressed firm on the top of the 
 crocks, keeping the base of the stem well above the rim, and 
 working the sphagnum gently but firmly in among the roots. 
 Finish off with a neatly placed layer of live sphagnum, and 
 secure the shoots to stakes which have been fixed firmly among 
 the drainage as it was filled in. The material being used in 
 a moist state, no water will be required at the roots luitil the 
 plant begins to grow, but the atmosphere must be constantly 
 kept saturated with moisture till the plants have expanded 
 their flowers and finished growing, giving water copiously at 
 the roots while growth is taking place. Care must, however, 
 be taken not to allow water to fall on the flowers after they 
 begin to expand, as it is liable to cause irreparable mischief. 
 From the end of September to early in April a drier and 
 more airy atmosphere should be maintained, and less water 
 given at the roots, just sufl3.cient to prevent any shrivelling 
 of the leaves. As a rule, the months of March and April are 
 the best for shifting all epiphytal orchids, Aerides included ; 
 and as the latter are natives of tropical regions in the Old 
 World, they thrive best in the East-Indian house. 
 
 ANGK^CUM. 
 
 This is a beautiful genus of interesting epiphytal orchids, 
 the characteristic feature of which is the peculiar long tail-hko 
 spur depending from the flower. The most esteemed for exhi- 
 bition are A. eburneum, A. Ellisii, and A. sesquipedale. These 
 are all natives of Madagascar, and consequently require to be 
 grown in the tropical or East-Indian house, and the treat- 
 ment described for Aerides suits them admirably. In their 
 seasons they are highly effective specimens for exhibition, 
 and the curious long drooping " tails " of the beautiful flowers 
 are always an object of great attraction to the public. 
 
ORCHIDS. 55 
 
 CALAXTHE. 
 
 A useful genus of ten-estrial orchids, comprising some very 
 handsome species, which in their respective seasons make a 
 fine displaj-, and are great favoiuites with the public. The 
 winter-flowering C. Veitchii and G. vestita make very effec- 
 tive specimens for exhibition at that dull period of the year ; 
 and C. MamLca and C. leratrifolia are among the best of the 
 summer-flowering species. Xaturally, they are slow in form- 
 ing exhibition specimens, and are usually " made up " by 
 placing together the required number of plants in a large pot 
 or tub — a practice not to be commended, although with many 
 species of orchids it may be difficult to detect, and in the case 
 of deciduous species, such as Calanthes, Pleiones, and the 
 like, it may be the least of two defects, and as such allowed 
 to pass. Calanthes are easily cultivated, and should be grown 
 in a rich mixture of loam and leaf-mould, potted firmly in 
 well-drained pots of the ordinary type, keeping the bulbs about 
 level with the rim of the pot. They grow best in the Indian 
 house, and while growth is taking place they should receive 
 copious suppUes of water at the root, with a supply of weak 
 liquid manure once or twice a week when the pots get full of 
 roots. The deciduous kinds require to be kept dry after they 
 have flowered till they are thoroughly rested, and the best 
 time to re-pot and start them is just when they naturally begin 
 to show signs of growth in spring. 
 
 CATTLEYA. 
 
 Perhaps no genus of orchids stands so high in popular favour 
 at the present day as that of Cattleya. Most of the species 
 are of easy culture, and under proper treatment soon grow 
 into specimens suitable for exhibition. The gorgeous display 
 of flowers produced by many of the choicest kinds renders 
 them indispensable to the exhibitor, and the magnificence of 
 the blooms always attracts crowds of admirers amongst the 
 visitors to a flower-show. Among the finest for exhibition are 
 C. Dowiana, C. Excmiensis, C. Laicrenceana, 0. Mendelii, C. 
 
56 ORCHIDS. 
 
 Mossia, and O. Warneri. These all thrive best when grown 
 in pots or baskets half-filled with clean-washed crocks, over 
 which is placed a layer of moss, and the remainder filled with 
 a mixture of fibry peat and pieces of charcoal, freely sprinkled 
 with silver sand. Keep the plant high over the rim of the 
 pot, and finish off the surface with a neat layer of live sphag- 
 num. They require an abundant supply of water while grow- 
 ing, and a moist atmosphere ; but they should be kept in a 
 drier state after the growth is matured, as they grow more freely 
 and fl.ower better after they have enjoyed a long period of rest. 
 Being chiefly natives of Brazil and the adjacent countries, 
 they thrive best in a temperature between that of- the Indian 
 and Mexican houses, or what is known as the " Brazilian " or 
 Cattleya house ; but they are very accommodating so long as 
 they receive plenty of heat and moisture while making their 
 growth, and, when subjected to a low temperature, careful 
 attention is paid to their wants, and especially not to over- 
 water them. 
 
 COiLOGYNE. 
 
 A genus of very showy and useful epiphytal orchids, chiefly 
 natives of the moister parts of the East Indies, and thriving 
 well under the same treatment as Cattleyas. The finest for 
 exhibition are G. asperata, C. cristata, and C. Massangeana. 
 They delight in abundance of moisture while growing, and 
 should be deluged with clear soft water overhead from the rose 
 of a watering-pot in the growing season. Being evergreens, 
 they should never be allowed, even in the resting season, to be- 
 come qviite dry at the root. Generally they enjoy plenty of heat 
 when making growth, but O. cristata is an exception, as it 
 makes the finest growth in a temperate house, and expands its 
 flowers to the greatest perfection in a tropical heat. As soon 
 as the plants are in full bloom, it and most of the Coelogynes 
 stand well and last longest in a cool temperature. The same 
 compost as for the Cattleyas suits well, and a sprinkling 
 of fish-manure, or any other stimiilant of the same nature, 
 over the surface of the soil once a-week while the plants are 
 growing is very beneficial. 
 
ORCHIDS. 57 
 
 CYMBIDir:H. 
 
 A few species of this genus form veiy handsome and 
 effective specimens for exhibition, especially 0. ebuvneum and 
 G. Loioianum. "When these are set up in their best condition, 
 they are exceedingly telling plants in a collection. They 
 thrive best in roomy well-drained pots, in a compost of rough 
 fibry peat, loam, sphagnum, and silver sand. Abundance of 
 water and a ■weekly application of clear liquid manure suits 
 them well. They grow to perfection in the Cattleya house. 
 They should be thoroughly rested in a cool temperature, but 
 the roots must never be allowed to become dust-dry. 
 
 CYPEIPEDiril. 
 
 This ib a very beautiful and interesting genus of terrestrial 
 orchids, representatives of which are foimd in all climates, 
 from Tropical to almost Arctic regions, and furnish the exhi- 
 bitor with some of the most valued specimens. Among the 
 finest of the tropical species for exhibition are the following : — 
 C. caudafum, C. Harrisiamim, C. Laiorenceanum, G. Sedenii, 
 G. Stonei, and G. superhiens. They are easily cultivated, and 
 delight in a good compost of turfy loam, peat, and silver sand, 
 with a little chopped sphagnum and nodules of charcoal. The 
 plant should be potted rather firmly, and kept about level 
 with the rim of the pot, finishing off the surface with a fine 
 layer of live sphagnum. Plenty of heat and moisture should 
 be given while the plants are growing, and less water applied 
 when they are resting ; but they must not be allowed to get 
 quite dry at the root at any season. An intermediate house 
 suits them well diTring the resting period. 
 
 DENDEOBIUM. 
 
 This is an extensive genus of orchids, comprising many 
 species and varieties, most of which are exceedingly floriferous ; 
 and although the flowers are not so large as those of many 
 other genera, yet their numbers make up for what they lack 
 in size. The colours of some of them are dense, bright, and 
 well marked, and tinged with various shades of red, white. 
 
58 ORCHIDS. 
 
 yellow, and purple. Among the best for exhibition are 
 
 D. densiflorum, D. Devonianum, D. Faloonei-i, D. firabriatum 
 oculatum, D. formosum, D. nohile, D. fhyrsiflorum, and D. 
 Wardianum. The three periods of developmfent peculiar to 
 orchids is well defined in this genus : first, the splendid display 
 of flowers ; second, rampant growths; and finally, gradual in- 
 action. During the latter period, the process of storing, con- 
 solidating, and preparing for the future display is steadily 
 proceeding, and the object of the cultivator should be to supply 
 the conditions marked by Nature, and assist the maturation 
 of the plant as far as possible. They should be potted in the 
 same manner and with the same material as is recommended 
 for Cattleya, but a little more brown peat may be used with 
 advantage. When they are in active growth, plenty of clear 
 water and a little liquid manure should be given; and the 
 plants syringed twice a day. When growth is finished, they 
 should be removed to a cool house with a night temperature 
 of 50°, a dry atmosphere, and plenty of ligfit, the amount of 
 water being gradually reduced, until the shoots are thoroughly 
 matured, after which less water is required. 
 
 EPIDENDEUM. 
 
 This extensive genus contains many species of little value 
 to the exhibitor. There are some, however, of considerable 
 merit on account of their compact habit and the beauty and 
 durability of their flowers, which entitle them to be classed 
 among exhibition plants. Three of the best are E. evectwn, 
 
 E. paiiiculatum, and E. vitellinmn majus. The first two have 
 rather tall stems, while the last is a low, compact-growing 
 species, sending up from the top of the bulbs its fine showy 
 flowers, which stand for months when placed in a cool shady 
 place. Their culture is similar to that recommended for 
 Cattleya, except that an intermediate temperature suits them 
 best. 
 
 L^LIA. 
 
 A genus of orchids comprising several species of a high 
 standard as exhibition plants, such as L. anceps, L. elegans, 
 
ORCHIDS. 59 
 
 and L. purpurata, and their splendid varieties. They are 
 natives of the warmer parts of America, from Mexico to Brazil, 
 and require the same treatment as the Cattleya, to which 
 genus they are closely allied. They thrive best in rough 
 fibry peat and sphagnum, mixed with crocks and bits of char- 
 coal, filling the pot about half full of drainage, and keeping 
 the plant high above the rim. They require abundance of 
 water with a little liquid manure during the growing period, 
 and a fair supply of water at all times. 
 
 LYCASTE. 
 
 >Some of the species and varieties of this genus are of great 
 value, not only to the exhibitor, but also from a commercial 
 point of view. They have flowers of much beauty and sub- 
 stance, and the only point against them is that they do not 
 produce so many blooms, nor show them so well, as many 
 others of less importance. Among the best are L. Candida, 
 L. gigantea, and L. SMnneri. They are easily cultivated, pro- 
 vided due attention is paid to watering, which should not 
 be altogether withheld when resting ; but a copious supply 
 must be given during the time of growth. They thrive best 
 in peat with a few pieces of old fern roots chopped down and 
 mixed with it. The Mexican house suits them well. 
 
 MASDEVALLIA. 
 
 An extensive, interesting, and useful genus of orchids from 
 the high mountainous regions of Central America, extending 
 from Mexico to Peru. There are numerous species and 
 varieties, some of which have large, richly coloured flowers, 
 rendering them most valuable as exhibition specimens, while 
 others have curiously marked and grotesquely shaped flowers, 
 of great interest to the botanist and to the collector of rare 
 and curious plants. Those with the largest flowers and 
 bright showy colours are the best for exhibition, such as 
 M. Harryana, M. ignea, M. Lindeni, M. Schlimii, M. tova- 
 remis, and M. Veitchiana, with their varieties. Under good 
 management the plants will flower twice, and some of them 
 
60 OECHIDS. 
 
 thrice during a season, and are very useful for both exhibition 
 and decoration. The cool house is the proper place in which 
 to grow them in, and with due attention to their wants they 
 are very amenable to good culture. A house with a north 
 aspect suits them admirably, as they delight in a cool moist 
 atmosphere, and shaded from bright sun. They require ample 
 drainage, and thrive best in turfy loam, silver sand, and sphag- 
 num, with plenty of water given to the roots while the plants 
 are growing. 
 
 MAXILLAEIA. 
 This is a genus of orchids mostly natives of South America. 
 They very much resemble Lycaste in their flowers and habit 
 growth, but have the disadvantage as exhibition plants of 
 concealing their blooms among their leaves ; nevertheless, 
 some of the species are of considerable merit on account of the 
 beauty and fragrance of their flowers, and should be in every 
 collection. Some of the best for exhibition are M. grandijlora, 
 M. Harriso7iii, and M. venusta. They should be potted in the 
 same material as Lycaste, and kept in the cool house, and, like 
 most orchids, they require plenty of water and a moist atmos- 
 phere while growing — receiving, when resting, just enough 
 water to keep the bulbs plump. 
 
 MILTONIA. 
 
 This is another South American genus, most of the species 
 growing naturally in the moist warm parts of Brazil. They 
 are low-growing, compact, evergreen plants, and as they throw 
 up one or two flowers from their small but numerous bulbs, 
 there are generally plenty of flowers on a specimen to produce 
 a fine display. Some of the best for exhibition are M. Candida, 
 M. spedabilis, and M. vexillaria. They should be potted in 
 brown peat and moss, with plenty of charcoal and crocks, and 
 treated afterwards similar to Cattleyas. 
 
 ODONTOGLOSSUM. 
 
 This is one of the most beautiful and deservedly popular 
 genera of the whole family, and is of the easiest culture ; also. 
 
OECHIDS. 61 
 
 when the plants are in flower, they can be used for decorative 
 purposes with the smallest risk of damage. The graceful 
 spikes of bloom when cut can scarcely be equalled for all kinds 
 of floral decorations, and the variety of form, colour, and 
 marking is not excelled by any other genus. They are natives 
 of various parts of Central America, and are often found grow- 
 ing at high and cool altitudes. Many of them make handsome 
 exhibition specimens when large and well flowered. Some of 
 the best, including their choicest varieties, are 0. cirrhosum, 
 0. cris2)um, 0. grande, 0. Iiisleayi, 0. nehulosum, 0. Plialce- 
 iwpsis, and 0. Pescatorei. They thrive best in a compost of 
 brown fibry peat with a little sphagnum and charcoal, and the 
 whole neatly covered over with live sphagnum kept fresh and 
 moist. With the exception of a few species, a cool house is 
 most suitable for their cultivation, and they require plenty of 
 water at all seasons, as they do not go to rest even in winter. 
 The species requiring a higher temperature than what is 
 generally given, such as Plialcenopsis, should be gradually 
 dried off during winter, and given a plentiful supply of water 
 after they show the flower-spikes and while growing. They 
 should be closely shaded from strong sun, and a little weak 
 liquid manure from soot and sheep-droppings is a good stimu- 
 lant when in active growth. 
 
 OXCIDIUM. 
 
 This is a most extensive and handsome genus, many of the 
 species producing long, branching, and numerously flowered 
 spikes, which make them very striking and useful as exhi- 
 bition plants. Some of the best, inclusive of their choice 
 varieties, are 0. ampliatum, 0. crispuvi, 0. macranthum, 0. 
 splendidum, 0. iigrinum, and 0. varicosum. They inhabit the 
 tropical parts of America, including Brazil, Mexico, and the 
 West Indies. Many of the species thrive best in baskets or 
 on blocks of wood, but the stronger growing kinds do best in 
 pots. The weaker growing should have the conditions of pot 
 culture made as near an imitation as possible of a basket. 
 They gi-ow well in perforated pots, in a compost consisting of 
 
62 ORCHIDS. 
 
 fibry peat, sphagnum, and pieces of the roots of the common 
 bracken chopped small. The kinds above mentioned should 
 all be grown in the Cattleya house, receiving plenty of mois- 
 ture, which should be moderated when the plants are at rest. 
 
 PHAIUS. 
 
 This is one of the terrestrial genera of orchids, of tall slender 
 growth. The species are spread over a wide range of country, 
 being found in Asia, India, and Australia. They are noble- 
 looking plants, with long plicate leaves and tall spikes of 
 beautiful flowers. Two of the best for exhibition are P. 
 grandifoUus and P. Wdllichii. In common with all the ter- 
 restrial class of orchids, they require a substantial compost to 
 grow them well, consisting of three parts turfy loam, from 
 which the small particles have been sifted, and one part of 
 sharp sand and well-decayed manure. The heat of the East- 
 Indian house, with plenty of water, suits well whUe they are 
 growing, but they should be removed to a cooler house and 
 given very little water when resting. They are greatly bene- 
 fited by a liberal supply of weak liquid manure when they are 
 in active growth. 
 
 PHAL^NOPSIS. 
 
 A splendid genus of orchids, which, however, require time 
 and good management to produce first-rate specimens ; indeed, 
 they are among the most difficult to grow satisfactorily of 
 all the Orchid family. The leaves of some of the species are 
 of great substance, large, and prettily spotted, but they are 
 rather liable to rot at the base. For exhibition, the best 
 are P. amaUlis, P. grandiflora, and P. Schilleriana. They are 
 natives of the warmest parts of India and the Malay Archi- 
 pelago, and are very sensitive to cold and damp during the 
 resting season. The warmest end of the Indian house is best 
 suited for their growth, where a moist atmosphere should be 
 provided whUe the plants are growing, but kept moderately 
 dry when they are resting. They should be very carefully 
 potted, using the best fibry peat and sphagnum, with a good 
 
OECHIDS. 63 
 
 sprinkling of charcoal and potsherds, keeping the roots well 
 above the rim of the pot, and care taken to shade them from 
 bright sunshine. 
 
 SACCOLABIUM. 
 
 A very iine genus of epiphytal orchids from India and the 
 Malay Archipelago, and when well grown they furnish excel- 
 lent exhibition specimens. The best for this purpose are 
 S. ampullaceum, S. Blumei majus, and S. violaceum. They are 
 very similar to Aerides in their habits, and require the same 
 treatment in their cultivation. They should be grown near 
 the glass, so as to receive all the light possible, and only be 
 shaded slightly when they are growing. 
 
 SOBEALIA. 
 
 This is a genus of tall slender-growing orchids, with large 
 showy flowers produced on the top of the stem. The flowers 
 are rather short-lived, and fade in a few days, but they succeed 
 each other so rapidly that there are always sufficient on a large 
 specimen to make a fine display. The best for an exhibition 
 specimen is S. macrardlia. It thrives in the Mexican house, 
 and should be potted in a mixture of rough peat, chopped 
 sphagnmn, potsherds, and charcoal. It requires a good supply 
 of water, with a little weak liquid manure while growing, and 
 to be kept moderately dry when at rest. 
 
 STANHOPEA. 
 
 This is a very peculiar genus of orchids from Tropical 
 America, with thick, waxy, grotesque-formed, variously col- 
 oured flowers. Instead of the flower-scape shooting upwards, 
 it takes the opposite direction, which renders the plants 
 unsuitable for pot culture. They do best grown in baskets, 
 but they can be grown in pots with fair success if the 
 pseudo-bulbs are raised well above the rim, and a strict 
 watch kept on the scapes as they begin to push, so as to 
 guide them to the outside. Some of the best for exhibition 
 are S. grandifiora, S. indgnis, S. Martiana, and S. tigrina. 
 
64 OECHIDS. 
 
 They thrive well in sphagnvun alone, but a little fibrous peat 
 amongst it is beneficial to their growth. The East-Indian 
 house suits them well, and they should receive plenty of 
 water while growing, with a long season of rest, during 
 which time they should not be over-watered. 
 
 TKICHOPILA. 
 
 This is a pretty genus of dwarf evergreen orchids, natives 
 of Central America. They have curiously formed flowers, 
 which proceed from the rhizome at the base of the bulb, some- 
 times drooping over the edge of the pot. They are very showj', 
 and should be tied up to thin stakes, and well exposed. Some 
 of the best for exhibition are T. crispa, T. fragrans, and T. 
 suavis. They require to be potted among brown peat with a 
 little sphagnum and charcoal, and the bulbs should be well 
 elevated above the pot, so that the scapes may extend freely. 
 They should be kept near the glass in the Mexican house, and 
 sparingly watered at all times. 
 
 TANDA. 
 
 An exceedingly handsome and free-flowering genus of orchids, 
 from the same regions in the tropics as Aerides and Saccola- 
 bium, and thriving well under similar treatment in the Indian 
 house. They are admirably adapted for exhibition, and take 
 a high place in competition. A few of the best of them are 
 V. Batemanii, V. insignis, V. suavis, and V. tricolor, the three 
 latter comprising each several very beautiful varieties, which 
 are popular among cultivators of orchids. Vandas luxuriate 
 in a high and moist temperature while they are growing, with 
 a copious supply of water at the roots, and an occasional appli- 
 cation of clear liquid manure, the air being kept saturated by 
 a free use of the syringe and damping of the paths and stages. 
 As the growth reaches maturity the plants should be kept 
 rather drier, and receive all the light and air possible, while 
 at the same time the high temperature of the house is main- 
 tained, and no more shading applied than will prevent scorch- 
 ing of the foliage. The plants thrive best when grown in 
 
OECHIDS. 65 
 
 baskets, which should be nearly filled with potsherds and 
 rough lumps of charcoal, with a layer of sphagnum laid over 
 them, on which the roots are placed, and filling in among 
 them a mixture of chopped sphagnum, potsherds, sandstone, 
 and charcoal. The material should be used more or less rongh 
 according to the size of the plant and capacit}- of the basket, 
 rounding it well up over the lip of the basket, and finishing 
 off with a neatly placed layer of live sphagnnm. 
 
 ZYGOPETALUJI. 
 
 A genus of handsome epiphytal orchids from Tropical Ame- 
 rica. Most of the species are tall-growing plants, sending up 
 terminal scapes bearing racemes of showy flowers. They bloom 
 during the winter, which makes them of value as decorative 
 plants, although not so useful for exhibition. Their bloom- 
 ing period can, however, be slightlv retarded by keeping the 
 plants in the cool end of the Cattleya house, and by introduc- 
 ing them to a cool house when in bloom they will stand fresh for 
 months. Some of the best species are Z. Macliayi, Z. ma:dUare, 
 and Z. rostratum. They should be grown in well-drained pots, 
 among fibrous peat and pieces of charcoal, which should be 
 covered over with live sphagnum. They should have plenty of 
 water when growing, but be kept moderately di-y when resting. 
 
 JUDGIX(i. 
 
 The chief points of merit in exhibition orchids ai-e : (1.) The 
 
 abundance and quality of the flowers, which should be fully 
 
 developed, fresh, large of their kind, of good substance, pure 
 
 and bright in colour, and the markings clearly defined ; and 
 
 (2.) the size and vigour of the plant, a hona fide specimen 
 
 formed of a single plant taking precedence of a " specimen " 
 
 made up of several plants, all other points being equal. 
 
 In orchids, however, so much depends on the particular 
 
 variety, and the conditions under which it is exhibited, that 
 
 the knowledge and experience of the judge can alone decide 
 
 their relative merits. 
 
 E 
 
66 FEKNS. 
 
 SECTION YI. 
 
 FERNS. 
 
 This is the most graceful section of cultivated plants, and 
 always forms a highly interesting class at horticultural exhi- 
 bitions, never failing to attract the attention and excite the 
 admiration of all classes of the people. It comprises numerous 
 genera and a multitude of species and varieties of lovely aspect, 
 some of which are to be found in every habitable part of the 
 world, from the stately wide-spreading tree-fern of the tropics 
 to the lowly spleenwort of the northern Highland glen. As a 
 rule, they are shade-loving plants, and delight to I'ear their 
 fragile forms under the protection of taller and more robust 
 subjects. There they are safe from the blast and the scorching 
 rays of the siin, and enjoy the requisite calm and moisture to 
 build up their delicate structure without interruption. 
 
 Following the usual practice at flower-shows, we will divide 
 this Section into five Sub- Sections, namely : 
 
 (1.) Exotic Ferns. 
 
 (2.) Hardy or British Ferns. 
 
 (3.) Filmy Ferns. 
 
 (4.) Tree Ferns. 
 
 (5.) Selaginellas. 
 
 1. EXOTIC FEENS. 
 
 Among the best for exhibition of the numerous, hand- 
 some, graceful, and useful ferns in this Sub- Section are the 
 following : — • 
 
 ADIANTUJI. 
 
 This is one of the best known and probably the most exten- 
 sively grown genus of the whole family. Among the best for 
 exhibition are A. cardiochlcena, A. cuneatum, A. Farley ense, 
 A. Fleniingii, A. formosum, A. gracillimum, A. Snndce Catha- 
 rines, and A. tenerum. These are all strong growers, and 
 
FERXS. 67 
 
 form excellent specimens when well managed. They thrive 
 best in a shady place in the stove, with a strong heat and 
 moist atmosphere. They should l;e grown in loam and sand, 
 with some charcoal and pieces of brick broken small. The}' 
 should receive plenty of water while growing, with weak 
 liquid manure once a week when the pots are full of roots. 
 When cutting out the old fronds in spring, some of the 
 freshest should be left to support the young ones, and to 
 assist in promoting stronger growth. 
 
 ASPLEXIU.M. 
 
 This is one of the most interesting genera of ferns, com- 
 prising a host of species and varieties, which are spread over 
 most of the habitable globe. Among so many it is not easy 
 to select the best, but the following suit admirably for exhi- 
 bition : — A. Belangerii, A. dimoi-plmm, A. formosum, A. feru- 
 laceum, and A. vii-ipariim. Both the stove and greenhouse 
 species thrive well in a compost of loam and peat in equal 
 parts, with a liberal addition of silver .sand. When the plants 
 have attained to specimen size, they should not be potted 
 every j'ear, but top-dressed with lich mould, and liberally fed 
 with weak liquid manure when they ai'e in active growth. 
 This practice should commend itself to all growers of ferns 
 for exhibition, because the plant in all its parts must be 
 grown to the fullest possible dimensions, which cannot be 
 done if the roots are stai'ved ; and, with the exception of one 
 or two genera, the whole family are much benefited by the 
 judicious apj)lication of liquid manure while they are growing. 
 
 BLECIIXUM. 
 
 The species of this genus are found, although in limited 
 numbers, in all parts of the world. They naturally grow 
 about the sides of streams and in crevices of rocks, wheie 
 they get plenty of shade and moisture. The length of their 
 fronds range from six inches to as many feet, and are generally 
 of graceful shape. Among the best for exhibition are B. 
 
08 FEEXS. 
 
 corcovadenso, B. Innceolahmv, and B. longifolium gracile. The 
 first two thrive best in the cool end of the stove, while the 
 last should be grown in the greenhouse. They should be 
 grown in a mixture of peat, loam, and sandstone. 
 
 DAVALLIA. 
 
 All the species and varieties of this useful genus form 
 teautiful specimens, and are of great service to the exhibitor. 
 Among the finest for that purpose are D. canariensig, D. 
 elpf/ans, D. Fijv'iisu plumosa, D. Inrta cristata, D. Moorerina, 
 and D. pyxidata. The stove kinds require a strong moist 
 heat and a plentiful supply of water at the roots, and should 
 be grown in baskets or well-drained pans, using a compost of 
 fibious peat and sharp sand, with a large proportion of char- 
 coal and sandstone, to allow the water to pass freelv away. 
 The greenhouse kinds should be grown among firmer material, 
 with less charcoal in it, and receive less water at the roots. 
 
 GLEICHEXIA. 
 
 This is a specially attractive race of ferns, and indispens- 
 able to the exhibitor. Among the best for exhibition are 
 O. eircinata glauca, G. dicarpa lo7ujipinnata, G. dicliotoma, 
 G.flahellata, G. Mendelii, and G. rupestris. They all require 
 greenhouse treatment, and should be grown in well-drained 
 pans or shallow tubs, using a compost of fibry peat and silver 
 sand with a little charcoal. They grow naturally on the banks 
 of streams where the water overflows their roots at times, 
 thus indicating that they require a plentiful supply of mois- 
 ture. They require to be firmly potted, leaving a hai'd even 
 surface for the wiry creeping stems to run upon. This genus 
 of beautiful ferns have rather delicate and easily injured roots, 
 and liquid manure or manure in any form should not be given 
 to them. They can be increased by division or by layering the 
 stems in small pots. 
 
FERNS. 69 
 
 GYJIXOGRA-M-MA. 
 
 This genus includes the most beautiful of the " golden " 
 and "silver" ferns. They stand in the front rank of exhibi- 
 tion ferns, and no collection is complete without them. Some 
 of the best "golden" ferns are G. clirysopliylla and its 
 varieties, LaucJieana and Parsoiisil (crested) ; and of the 
 '• silver," G. peniviana argyrophylla, G. tartarea, and G. Wet- 
 tenhalliana (crested). They all belong to the stove section, 
 and require a strong moist heat for the development of 
 their fronds, ^^'ith good management they soon grow into 
 large specimens, and abundantly compensate for the attention 
 given them. They thrive best when potted in a compost of 
 sandy loam and peat, with some bits of charcoal. They should 
 be well supplied with water at the roots during the growing 
 season, and a little liquid manure once a week ; but all syring- 
 ing must be dispensed with, as it washes off the powdery 
 " gold " and " silver " from the fronds, and spoils the plant for 
 exhibition. 
 
 LASTEEA. 
 
 This is a ver}- extensive genus, containing many species and 
 varieties, which, with few exceptions, belong to temperate 
 climes, and thrive well in the greenhouse. Some of the best 
 for exhibition are L. an'sfata variecjata, L. elegans, L. lepida, 
 L. Riclianlsii midlifida, and L. tenerir.cndis cristata. These are 
 all of easy culture, and grow freely in equal parts of turfy 
 loam and peat, with a sprinkling of silver sand. 
 
 LOMAEIA. 
 
 A genus of useful ferns, containing several species of merit 
 as exhibition plants ; and although some of them inhabit the 
 warmest parts of both hemispheres, yet very few require stove- 
 heat. A few of the best are L. discolor, L. faleata, L. gihha, 
 and L. Patersonii elongata, all of which thrive well in the 
 greenhouse. They grow well in sandy loam and peat, and are 
 all the better to be started and grown for a time in a warm 
 moi.st atmosphere, taking care to gradually inure them to the 
 temperature of the greenhouse. 
 
70 FERNS. 
 
 LYGODIUM. 
 A genus of climbing ferns which grow rapidly, and can be 
 trained into any form. Two excellent species are L palma- 
 tum and L. scandens: The first is a native of North America, 
 and grows well in a greenhouse : the last belongs to the East 
 Indies, and requires to be grown in the cool end of the stove. 
 Light loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand suits them admirably, 
 and weak liquid manure given once a week when the soil is 
 full of roots is beneficial. The long stems are best shown 
 when trained in a spiral manner round a balloon wire trellis, 
 being careful not to break off the points of the shoots till the 
 top is reached. Large specimens trained in this fashion, with 
 strong healthy fronds, are among the finest exhibition ferns. 
 
 NEPHEODIUM. 
 A very numerous and useful genus of ferns, natives of many 
 parts of the world, some of flhich form handsome specimens 
 for exhibition. A few of the best are N. cuspidatum, N. del- 
 toideum, N. molle corymbiferum, N. patens cristafa, and N. vil- 
 losum. These thrive well in an intermediate temperature, and 
 should be grown in fibry loam, leaf-mould, and sand, with plenty 
 of moi.sture at the roots, and a little liquid manure once a week 
 in the growing season. 
 
 NEPHROLEPIS. 
 This is a genus of graceful and ornamental ferns, well 
 adapted for exhibition. The species are all stove plants, but 
 a few thrive well in a warm greenhouse. Some of the best are 
 N. cordata, N. davallioides furcans, N. peeUnata, and N. plama. 
 They grow well and form fine specimens with the same treat- 
 ment as recommended for Lomaria. 
 
 NOTHOCHL^NA. 
 A beautiful and interesting genus of stove ferns, having the 
 same characteristics as the gold and silver Gymnogrammas, 
 and thrive well under the same treatment. Some of the best 
 for exhibition are N. chrtjsopliylla, N. lanuginosa, N. nivea, 
 N. sinuata, and N. trichomanoides. 
 
FEKXS. 
 
 OSIIUXDA. 
 
 A geuiis of large handsome ferns, mostly natives of North 
 America, Asia, and Japan, but one is the well-known Roj'al 
 Fern, 0. regalis, of the British Isles. They possess fronds 
 varying in length from one to three feet or more, and when well 
 cultivated form fine specimens for exhibition. Three of the 
 best are 0. cinnamomea, 0. javanica, and 0. palusfrits. They are 
 all moderately hardy, and thrive remarkably well in the green- 
 house. The ordinary fern soil suits them, and as they grow 
 naturally in damp marshy situations, they should be kept 
 moist even when dormant. 
 
 PLATYCEEIUJr. 
 
 A remarkably distinct genus of ferns, containing a few 
 species which, when well grown, possess a unique and hand- 
 some appearance, and form grand specimens for exhibition. 
 Some of the best are P. nlcicorne majus, P. grande, and P. 
 Hilli. These are all tropical species, and require similar 
 treatment to other stove ferns, except that rough material 
 should be used in potting and the plants set high in the pot, 
 which should be well drained. They are better to be kept 
 rather dry at the root during winter. 
 
 POLYPOMUil. 
 
 This is a very extensive genus, widely spread throughout the 
 world, giving a choice of hardy, medium, and tender species. 
 The following are some of the best exhibition kinds: — P. appen- 
 diculatum, P. Krameri, P. loriceum, and P. nigresceiis. The 
 first and last require stove treatment, the other two a green- 
 house temperature. If well cultivated vmder ordinary con- 
 ditions, they readily form good exhibition specimens. 
 
 POLYSTICHUII. 
 
 A very ornamental genus of rather hardy ferns, except a 
 few of the species which require stove heat. The following 
 three are greenhouse species, and suitable for exhibition : — 
 
"72 FERNS. 
 
 P. flexum, P. mucronatum, and P. setosum. They are very 
 easily cultivated, and if started in a little heat in spring, make 
 excellent exhibition specimens during the summer. 
 
 PTEEIS. 
 
 This is an ornamental and very useful genus, of the easiest 
 culture. Among the best species for exhibition are P. argyreea, 
 P. creHca alho-lineata, P. serndata cristata, and P. tricolor. 
 They may either be grown in the stove or greenhouse, but 
 make the finest plants in a little heat when proper care is 
 taken to keep them clean and free from scale, from which they 
 are liable to suffer if neglected. Sandy loam and peat with a 
 little maltster's "cummings" grows them well. This material 
 is the refuse from malt-kilns, and when mixed with soil for 
 ferns and soft-wooded plants it has a very beneficial effect 
 upon them. 
 
 WOODWARDIA. 
 
 The finest species of this genus is the beautiful W. radical^ 
 cristata, which makes a fine shapely plant when grown in a 
 warm greenhouse. It grows well in a suspended basket, and 
 thrives best in equal parts sandy loam and fibry peat. 
 
 2, BRITISH FERNS. 
 
 This Sub-Section includes all ferns indigenous to the British 
 Isles. They should be exhibited in two classes, viz., large 
 and dwarf specimens, the latter including all kinds with 
 fronds less than one foot in height from the .surface of the pot. 
 
 British ferns generally require the same cultural treatment, 
 and the few exceptions to the rule will be mentioned under 
 their own genus. They should be gi'own in moderate-sized 
 pots, well drained ; and they thrive well in peat, loam, and 
 sand, varying the proportions of these according to the delicate 
 nature or robust habit of the species. They grow well in the 
 open air, but to produce them in the best condition for exhi- 
 bition, they should be grown in a glass-house or pit with a 
 north aspect. They require plenty water at the roots, and 
 
FERNS. ( o 
 
 a moist atmosphere during growth ; but they should be kept 
 moderately dry during winter, and protected from extreme 
 frost, if possible, without using artificial heat. A long period 
 of undisturbed rest is a sure preliminary to a vigorous start 
 and luxuriant growth. 
 
 ADI.A^'TUil {Maidenhair). 
 
 The beautiful •■ ^laidenhair fern," A. capiUus-Veneris, is 
 the only British species of this genus. The fronds grow from 
 S to 12 inches in length, and when it is started and grown 
 for a time in a warm moist place, it forms a splendid dwarf 
 exhibition specimen. 
 
 ALLOSOKUS {Parsley Fern). 
 
 A very pretty little fern is A. crispus, the only species of 
 the genus indigenous to Britain. It grows naturally in rocky 
 places on mountain-sides, well out of the reach of water, 
 which it seems to avoid ; and when cultivated in a pot it 
 should be well drained, and the plant never watered overhead, 
 nor kept in an atmosphere over-charged with moisture. It 
 makes a first-rate dwarf exhibition specimen when in its best 
 condition. 
 
 ASPLEXiril {Spleen wort). 
 
 There are several species of this genus natives of the British 
 Isles, some of which are rare, while others are quite common. 
 Some of the best for pot culture and exhibition are A. Adiantum- 
 jiigrum, A. lanceolatum, A. marinum, A. TricJwmanes criatala, 
 and A. viride. These are all dwarf ferns, but with good treat- 
 ment some of them will attain dimensions to qualify them for 
 the large specimen class. 
 
 ATHYEIU.M {Lady Fern). 
 
 A. Filix-fcemina is the only species of this genus which is a 
 native of Britain. It is a very common plant in every part 
 of the United Kingdom, generally growing in damp sheltered 
 situations, where it often attains a height of five feet or more, 
 
74 FEEXS. 
 
 and forms one of the noblast specimens of Biitish ferns. Some 
 of the best varieties of it are A. F.-f. Frizellice, A. F.-f. latifolia, 
 A. F.-f. nmltifidum, and A. F.-f. Vidorice. 
 
 BLECHNUM (Hard Fern). 
 
 The hardy erect-habited B. spicant is the only British 
 species of this genus, and is found on heaths and in woods 
 all over the country. Three of the most suitable varieties for 
 exhibition are B. s. multifidum, B. s. ramosum, and B. s. triner- 
 vtim. They are all dwarf ferns, and make very pretty plants 
 when well grown. 
 
 CETEKACH (Scale Fern). 
 
 The somewhat rare British fern C. officlnarum is found 
 generally in rocky places and on old ruins. It is rather 
 difficult to cultivate, and should be grown in well-drained pots 
 in a mixture of fibrous loam, pieces of sandstone, charcoal, 
 and old mortar, and set in a shady corner of the house, where 
 it should be carefully watered and the crown kept thoroughly 
 dry. It is one of the smallest of ferns, but its peculiar appear- 
 ance makes it very interesting and unique as an exhibition 
 specimen. 
 
 LASTEEA (Buckler Fern). 
 
 This genus contains several British species, with numerous 
 varieties, which are widely scattered over the country. Among 
 the best for large specimens are L. cristata, L. dilatata lepi- 
 dota, L. Fili.v-ma.s cristata, and L. spinulosa. These are all 
 easily grown, and produce fronds varying from two to five feet 
 in length — the crested varieties in particular forming grand 
 specimens. 
 
 OSMUXDA (Rorjal Fern). 
 
 This genus has one native species only, from which has been 
 obtained a handsome crested variety. 0. regalis and 0. regalis 
 cristata are two of the finest for exhibition among British 
 ferns. The former attains to a height of four or five feet, 
 and when well furnished has few rivals, while the latter fills 
 a prominent place in the most choice collections. 
 
FEKXS. V O 
 
 POLYPODICJI {Polypo<hj). 
 
 Tliis genus includes the favourite Beecb, F. Phe<jopteri.<, 
 and Oak, P. Dnjopteris, Ferns, beside the numerous beautiful 
 varieties of tbe common Polypody, which are among the best 
 for pot culture. They are all excellent for exhibition, the 
 Beech and Oak Ferns making fine dwarf specimens, while the 
 Polypod}-, with good treatment, grows to a fair size as a 
 specimen. 
 
 POLYbTICHUM {Sliield Feni). 
 This is one of the larger-growing genera of British ferns, 
 the species and varieties of which are very useful and orna- 
 mental, and form splendid specimens for exhibition. Some 
 of the best are P. andeatum proliferiun, P. anguJave cristatum, 
 P. a. p>lumosum, and P. a. proliferum. 
 
 SCOLOPEXDEIUil {Harfs-tongue Fern). 
 There is only one British species of this genus, but there is a 
 great choice of varieties. They are mostly all pretty evergreens 
 and very easily cultivated. Some of the best for exhibition are 
 S. vidgare crispum, S. v. eristahim, and S. v. ramosum majus. 
 They form nice dwarf exhibition plants, and contrast well with 
 others. 
 
 "WOODSIA {Tlie Woodsia). 
 These are among the smallest and most interesting of British 
 ferns, of which there are only two species, TF. hijperiorea and 
 W. ilvensis. They grow naturally on rocky mountains, but are 
 amenable to pot culture, and form beautiful dwarf specimens 
 for exhibition. The pots should be extra well drained and 
 the soil never allowed to become dry. 
 
 3. FILMY FEEXS. 
 
 With the exception of Todea, which assumes a considerable 
 size, the genera included in this Sub-Section are of a lowly 
 and unassuming growth, but the peculiarly delicate, almost 
 transparent, nature of their fronds, and their extremely neat 
 
76 FERNS. 
 
 and graceful appearance, render them specially attractive and 
 interesting in an exhibition, at which they ought to be more 
 often seen. The best known genera, Hymenophyllwn, Todea, 
 and TricJiomanes, are all very similar in their nature and 
 habits, and thrive well with the same treatment. Where 
 possible, a small house with a north aspect should be specially 
 devoted to them, and where that cannot be afforded, they 
 should be grown in cases or frames inside of other houses ; 
 and as tliey are shade-loving plants, the case may be placed 
 anywhere under the shade of other plants, so that a moderate 
 share of light and air reaches it. A close, moist, moderately 
 cool atmosphere, kept closely shaded from sunshine, suits them 
 well ; and most of them thrive in well-drained pots, in a com- 
 post of iibry peat, chopped sphagnum, and silver sand, freely 
 mixed with chips of sandstone and charcoal, used more or less 
 rough according to the size and nature of the plants. The 
 air must be kept saturated with moisture by frequent sprink- 
 lings with tepid water ; and the drainage must be perfect to 
 allow it to escape, as they will not bear stagnation at the roots. 
 Some of the creeping species thrive best on blocks of wood or 
 pieces of tree-fern stems, with a little sphagnum tied on, to 
 retain moisture for the roots as they run over the surface of 
 the block. 
 
 HYMEXOPHYLLra. 
 
 The numerous members of this genus are mostly natives of 
 tropical regions, but a few beautiful species are found in Kew 
 Zealand. The best for exhibition are H. clliatum, H.flexuosum, 
 H. hirsiitum, and S. scabrum. H. Timlirldgen.se and H. Wilsonii, 
 which are natives of Britain, are occasionally exhibited in col- 
 lections of hardy ferns. They ai'e generally found in sheltered 
 crevices of rocks with the water from above trickling down 
 among their roots, and keeping the air heavily laden with 
 moisture, giving an idea of what to aim at in growing them 
 to perfection. 
 
 TODEA. 
 
 This is by far the most effective genus for exhibition among 
 the filmy ferns. Many of the species form elegant plants. 
 
FEEXS. 7 / 
 
 but require many years to make a large specimen. Some 
 of the best are T. Fraseri, T. jiellucida, T. phniw<a, and 2\ 
 superba. Tliey develop much larger fronds when placed in a 
 mild heat during the growing season, when the conditions as 
 to moisture and shade are maintained. 
 
 TKICHOiU-XES. 
 
 A highly interesting genus of filmy ferns, including a 
 large number of beautifvil species with clear membranous 
 fronds, varying in length from an inch to about a foot. The 
 great majority of them are natives of tropical countries, but 
 one lovely species, the well-known Killarney Fern, T. radican-->, 
 is a native of Britain. They are rather easier to cultivate 
 than the other two genera, but they thiive well under the 
 same general treatment. Trichomanes gi'ow best in shallow 
 pans, with the compost raised well above the rim. A little 
 turfy loam and plenty of lumps of sandstone added to the 
 compost is beneficial. Beside T. radicaiu, T. awjusiatum, 
 T. maximum, T. renifonne, T. rtgidum, and T. venosmn are all 
 useful and interesting plants for exhibition. 
 
 4. TREE FEEXS. 
 
 These are a t^tately and attractive class of plants in an 
 exhibition, and are frequently employed, along with palms of 
 some height, to break up the smooth formality of the arrange- 
 ment of other exhibits of lower stature, and as a set- off to 
 the brilliant colours of flowering plants, with a very pleasing 
 effect. Tree-ferns require to be grown in rather lofty houses, 
 where they have ample room to develop to the fullest extent 
 their large and graceful fronds. To assist them in the pro- 
 duction of fronds of the largest size and most graceful form, 
 it is a good practice to cover the stem with a thin layer of 
 sphagnum, kept in its place by fine string of the same colour. 
 The sphagnum .should be af>plied in spring before growth com- 
 mences, and it should be kept saturated by daily pouring a 
 copious supply of water on to the top of it at the base of the 
 fronds, and plying the syringe freely over it several times a 
 
/ 8 FERNS. 
 
 da}'. Fresh roots will soon begin to push from the crown, and, 
 running down the moist sphagnum, will give increased vigour 
 to the fronds. Tree-ferns delight in abundance of moisture 
 in the air while growing ; but care must be taken to have the 
 fronds well matured, in a more airy and drier atmosphere, 
 before the date of the exhibition, so that they may stand ex- 
 posure and not be damaged in transit. Owing to the pliable 
 nature of their fronds, tree-ferns can be covered up and 
 taken to a flower ^how with less trouble than almost any other 
 class of plants ; still, all due precaution should be taken not 
 to injure a single frondlet which would in the least detract 
 from the merits of a perfect specimen. 
 
 Although tree-ferns are a numerous class in manj' tropical 
 and sub-tropical countries, the number of genera in cultiva- 
 tion is very limited, and not more than three or four of those 
 generally grown in our stoves and conservatories are ever seen 
 at exhibitions in tree-like proportions, with clear stems of six 
 feet or more in height. The best of these are included in the 
 following list. 
 
 ALSOPHILA. 
 
 A very handsome genus of tree-ferns, producing fronds of 
 magnificent proportions under good treatment, which have a 
 telling effect in any plant airangements. The finest species 
 for exhibition are A. audralis and A. excelsa, both of which 
 thrive best in a warm greenhouse, although they are hardy 
 enough to grow well in any glass structure from which frost 
 is excluded. They grow freely in a mixture of turfy loam 
 and peat, plentifully sprinkled with small bits of sandstone 
 and charcoal. They must have a copious supply of water 
 while growing, and a fair allowance at all times, and the 
 young fronds must be shaded from the direct sunshine till 
 they are full-grown. The stem of Alsophila is generally 
 rather slender, but by judicious mossing it can be increased 
 to any desirable girth, and with advantage to the size of the 
 head of fronds. 
 
 BLECIIXUM. 
 
 It is seldom Blechnums are exhibited as tree-ferns, and 
 unless their stems exceed three feet clear in height, they 
 
FEEXS. 79 
 
 should be escluded. When over that height, and furnished 
 with fresh and -well-developed heads of fronds, they are very 
 effective in a group of plants. The only species generally 
 grown which assumes a useful tree-like habit is B. hraziliense, 
 and its two varieties, B. corcovadense and B. crispum. 
 
 BKAINBA. 
 Onh' one species, B. insignis, is in cultivation, a very beau- 
 tiful and interesting tree-fern from Hong-Kong, which forms 
 a highly effective plant in a collection when it is shown in its 
 best condition. In this country it is seldom seen with a stem 
 of sufficient height to be exhibited in the tree-fern class. It 
 thrives well in an intermediate house, in a comparatively 
 small pot, filled with a compost of fibry peat and loam, with 
 a liberal sprinkling of silver sand and charcoal nodules. It 
 requires abundance of water and shade while making its 
 growth. 
 
 CYATHEA. 
 
 A genus of tree-ferns, comprising some of the handsomest 
 species in cultivation, and of great usefulness for either deco- 
 rative or exhibition purposes. Among the best are G. Burlcei, 
 C. dealbata, the handsome and popular silver tree-fern from 
 oSTew Zealand ; C insiffnis, known in gardens as Gihotium prin- 
 eeps, and C. meduUan's, one of the stateliest of all the New 
 Zealand species. 0. insignis is a native of the West Indies, 
 and thrives best in a stove, but the others succeed admirably 
 in a greenhouse, kept a little warm and moist when they are 
 pushing out their new fronds. They all grow well in the usual 
 compost for tree-ferns, — fibry loam and peat, with a free 
 sprinkling of sand and charcoal nodules, and plenty of drain- 
 age, in rather small pots. Abundance of water and shade 
 from sunshine while growing, and a moderate amount of both 
 at all other times suits them well. 
 
 DICKSONIA. 
 The Dicksonias are a princely race of tree-ferns, the genus 
 including the greatest number of handsome arborescent species 
 of any grown in this country, and furnishing the exhibitor 
 
80 FERNS. 
 
 with his principal specimens in the tree-fern class. Among 
 the finest for exhibition is the handsome and -well-known 
 favourite D. antardica, which is oftener seen in good form at 
 horticultural shows than any other tree-fern ; D. Berteroana, 
 an elegant and rather rare species from the Island of Juan 
 Fernandez; D. regalis (Cibotium regale), a graceful species 
 from Mexico ; and Z). squarrosa from New Zealand, one of the 
 most esteemed of all for exhibition when in first-rate condition. 
 All the species mentioned thrive well in a cool greenhouse, but 
 make the finest heads of fronds when they receive the assist- 
 ance of a little extra heat and abundance of moisture while 
 growing. A copious supply of soft water, of the same tempe- 
 rature as the air of the house, should be daily poured over 
 their crowns from the time the fronds begin to shoot up till 
 they are fu.lly expanded. Like all tree-ferns, Dicksonias should 
 not be over-potted, and may remain in the same pot for years 
 if they are regularly attended to otherwise and the stems kept 
 moist in the growing season. After the fronds have attained 
 their full size, they i-emain longest fresh and green in a mode- 
 i-ately dry and cool atmosphere shaded from bright sunshine. 
 Light fibry loam and peat, with plenty of nodules of sand- 
 stone and charcoal, firmly pressed into the pot or tub, grows 
 them to perfection. 
 
 LOMAEIA. 
 
 Several species of this useful genus of ferns assume an 
 arborescent habit with age, but few of them ever attain suffi- 
 cient stature to entitle them to be exhibited as tree-ferns. 
 L. discolor, L. giUba, L. Magellanica, and L. zamicefolia are 
 the best of the erect-stemmed species ; and when they reach 
 three feet or more of a clear stem, surmounted by a well- 
 balanced head of their graceful fronds, they are really beau- 
 tiful objects, and of much service to the decorator as well as 
 to the exhibitor. They thrive best in a temperate house, and 
 when intended for tree-ferns they should be grown in as small 
 pots as possible, filled with the usual fern-growing soil, — light 
 fibry loam, peat, and sand ; kept shaded while growing, and 
 receive abundance of water, especially overhead, till the fronds 
 have reached their full size. 
 
FEEXS. 81 
 
 TODEA. 
 
 A very interesting genus of lovely ferns, of which T. Fraseri 
 and T. superha are the best for eshibition of those that form 
 arborescent stems. T. superha, when in its finest form, is per- 
 haps the most graceful of all ferns, and is a most valuable 
 exhibition plant. It is seldom possessed of a stem of the 
 necessary height to entitle it to compete in the tree-fern class, 
 where, at its best, it is liable to be dwarfed by the stately 
 Dicksonias, Cyatheas, and Alsophilas ; but with a well- grown 
 head of perfect fronds three feet or more across, it is generally 
 a more meritorious plant than its bulkier neighbours. Todeas 
 thrive well in a cool temperature, but they grow fastest and 
 lengthen their fronds more rapidly when grown in a close 
 moist stove. They delight at all times in a close humid atmos- 
 phere, well shaded, and the plants kept moist by frequent 
 sprinklings overhead with soft, clear, tepid water. A compost 
 of fibry peat, silver sand, and nodules of charcoal, all well 
 mixed and firmly pressed into pots one-third filled with drain- 
 age, grows them well. 
 
 5. SELAGIXELLA. 
 
 This is an extensive and singular genus of plants, very 
 much diversified in appearance. Some kinds are short, thick, 
 close, and as flat as a carpet, while others have long trailing 
 stems reaching out several feet from the root. A dozen of 
 the best kinds for exhibition are <S'. africana, S. apoda, S. 
 caulescens, S. erythropus, S. grandis, S. hcematodes, S. Krauss- 
 iana, S. Lyallii, S. Martensii, S. ■uncinata, S. WalUchii, and 
 .S'. Wildenovii. With the exception of Martensii and Wilde- 
 novii, which grow well in a greenhouse, the others require a 
 stove or an intermediate temperature and a moist atmosphere 
 to grow them well. They should be planted in well-drained 
 pans in fibry peat, leaf-mould, silver sand, and small chips 
 of charcoal and sandstone, with some turfy loam added to the 
 compost for the stronger-growing kinds. For the production 
 of large exhibition specimens, various modes of growing and 
 training have to be resorted to. The low-growing, dense, 
 
 F 
 
82 FERNS. 
 
 carpet-like kinds should be grown nearly flat, with a sliglit 
 rise to the centre. This is accomplished by stretching rings 
 of wire around the outside of the pan, placing over them a 
 piece of wire-netting, covering it with moss, on which the 
 soil is laid, and the broken-up pieces of the plant with roots 
 thickly planted all over it. The straggling growers should be 
 trained as pyramids, or in the form of an obtuse cone. This 
 is done by widening the base, as already described. A light 
 hollow-framed cone may be placed in the centre, to reduce the 
 dead weight of the specimen and the quantity of material 
 required. Then begin at the bottom and build up around the 
 cone layer upon la3'er of light turfy peat or loam, or pieces 
 of both, laid fiat and with a regular outward surface, intro- 
 ducing at short intervals a little fine soil with rooted pieces 
 of the plant until the apex is reached. A well-grown specimen 
 of this description, about four feet high, is a great attraction 
 at an exhibition. 
 
 JUDGING. 
 
 All ferns should be of graceful habit and pleasing outline, 
 and be set up for competition in a tasteful manner, so as to 
 show the merits of every specimen to the best advantage. 
 
 The general points of merit in ferns are : (1.) Fronds well 
 developed, and perfect in every part ; (2.) graceful or stately 
 in habit ; and (3.) the colour of the fronds fresh and bright. 
 
 Selaginellas should be (1.) well grown, fresh, and of good 
 colour, without speck or blemish; (2.) the free-growing kinds 
 graceful and well balanced ; and (3.) the "carpet" varieties, 
 with a short, close, even pile. 
 
 Tree-ferns should not be admitted for competition in that 
 class with less than three feet of a clear stem, measured from 
 the surface of the soil to the base of the crown of fronds. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Round shapely stem, at least three 
 feet in length ; (2.) a well-developed graceful head of fronds, 
 without blemish; and (3.) fresh and clear in the colour. All 
 points being equal, the taller the stem, with a proportionate 
 girth, the better the specimen. 
 
TABLE PLA>;TS. «o 
 
 SECTIOX YII. 
 
 TABLE PLANTS. 
 
 This is generally a well filled and keenly contested class at 
 horticultural exliibitions, and attracts a considerable share of 
 attention from the public. The exhibits are usually confined 
 to small well-gro^vn specimens of fine-foliaged plants, because 
 they are the most popular and useful section for table decora- 
 tion, their easy culture, durability, and graceful appearance 
 rendering them peculiarly suitable for the purpose. The other 
 sections which are occasionally exhibited at flower-shows 
 are flowering plants, berried plants, conifers, and ferns, all, 
 however, being eligible for exhibition in the one class for 
 " Table Plants,'' unless specially divided in the schedule. Of 
 foliage plants there is plenty of choice, but the numbers of 
 suitable species in the other sections are rather limited, and 
 not more than six of them, if confined to distinct species, should 
 be required in competition. As a rule, it is better to stipulate 
 for distinct varieties only, and if the merits of the collections 
 are equal, then the number of species will settle the point, 
 the greatest number receiving the highest award. 
 
 Among the best of the first or Foliage section of Table Plants, 
 the following genera, with a single species or variety charac- 
 teristic of the most suitable type, may be selected : — Aealypha 
 musaica, Aralia Veitchii gracHIima, Croton Clielsoni, UraccBna 
 Sidneyi, Eulcdia japonica variegata, Grevillea elecjans, Lomatia 
 elegantissima, Maranta Veitchii; of Palms, Cocos Weddelliana 
 and Phoenix rupicola are two of the best representatives of the 
 class ; Pavetta horhonica, Phrynium variegatum, Rhopala ele- 
 gantissima, and Terminalia elegam. The culture of this section 
 is of the easiest, and the proper soil and general treatment is 
 the same as that already described for specimen foliage plants. 
 Vigorous }'oung plants must be secured, and they must be 
 grown as quickly as possible to maintain them in robust health 
 to the desired size. Rich soil, good drainage, firm potting in 
 small pots, and a liberal but judicious use of artificial and 
 
84 TABLE PLANTS. 
 
 liquid manure, combined with a free application of the syringe 
 and perfect cleanliness at all times, will grow them to per- 
 fection. 
 
 The second section, or Flowering Plants, is the most attrac- 
 tive, including such subjects as Amaryllis, Amasonia punicea, 
 Anthuriwn, Azalea, Begonia, Cyclamen, Dielytra, Epipliyllum, 
 Eucharis, Fuchsia, Gesnei-a, Orchids, Pancratium, Primula, 
 Poinsettia, Rhododendron, Sjpirwa, Thyrsacanthus, and Val- 
 lota. As a rule, ilowering plants are much more diiEcult to 
 grow to perfection and exhibit in full beauty at a fixed date 
 than foliage plants, but their generally elegant habits and the 
 beauty of their flowers are worthy of special efforts being made 
 to obtain these plants in perfection. Their general culture is 
 described in other sections, and the special treatment required 
 to produce handsome, and well-flowered specimens is nearly 
 similar during their growing stage to that recommended for 
 foliage plants. Healthy yoking plants to start with, liberal 
 treatment, attention to watering and cleanliness, and a good 
 position near the light when nearing the flowering stage, to 
 form and develop the flowers, is about the surest road to 
 success. 
 
 The third section, or Beri-ied Plants, are a very limited 
 class if confined to plants bearing what are popularly known 
 as "berries;" but if plants with showy fruits are admissible 
 when produced on specimens of a proper size, the range of sub- 
 jects is considerably widened. Among the best are Ardisia, 
 Aucuba, CalUcarpa, Capsicum, Dianella, Hardy Fruit Trees 
 and Bushes, Oranges, Rivina, SIcimmia, and Solanum. To 
 have the plants in this section in their best condition, much 
 care is necessary, and to succeed no trouble or watching must 
 be grudged. 
 
 Of the fourth section, Ferns, there are numerous species 
 of a graceful habit suitable for competition as table plants. 
 Among the best are Adiantum, Asplenium, Athyrium, Blech- 
 nuni, Lastrea, Lomaria, Neottopteris, Neplirodium, Osmunda, 
 Pteris, and Todea. There are only certain species and varieties 
 of the genera mentioned that are suitable for table plants, 
 those with graceful fronds about one foot in length being most 
 
TABLE PLANTS. 85 
 
 eligible for the purpose. The pinnfe of certain Adiantum?, 
 such as A. Farleyense, being too heavy for the slender foot- 
 stalks, should be supported on fine galvanised wire with a hook 
 at the top to hold the frond in its natural position. 
 
 The fifth section, Conifers ; this, the last section of table 
 plants, is, with few exceptions, the best for exhibition, their 
 hardiness and durability being greatly in their favour. For 
 competition, they should be grown under glass, and they well 
 repay a little trouble to bring out their best colours and points 
 of merit. The following are some of the best : — Araucaria 
 excelsa, Arthrotaxus selaginoides, Biota {Thuia) orientalis aiwea, 
 Cupressus Lawsoniana albo-variegata, Juniperux cliinensis aureo- 
 rariegata, Libocednis cliile7ii<is, Retinospora phmiosa alho-pida, 
 Thuiopsis dolabrata variegata, Thuia occidentalis elegant issima, 
 and Wellingtonia girjantea. All of these are grown from 
 cuttings in the visual manner, but care should be taken to 
 select the most vigorous cuttings from the points of side- 
 shoots, so that they may soon form well-balanced young 
 plants. Sound fibry loam of a medium texture suits them 
 well, and they should be potted rather firm in well-drained pots. 
 They delight in a free circulation of air, a moderate supply of 
 water at all times, and all the light possible to bring out their 
 best gold and silver variegation. In summer, syringe every 
 afternoon to keep them clean and fresh. 
 
 JUDGING. 
 
 The points of merit in a table plant are : (1.) Gracefulness 
 of habit, with every twig and leaf fresh and complete ; (2.) the 
 colour of flowers, foliage, and berries should be bright, without 
 blemish, and the markings clear and well defined, pure white, 
 bright red, and green taking precedence of yellow and blue. 
 No table plants should be exhibited in pots over six inches 
 in measurement, and clean-stemmed plants are preferable to 
 those of a squat or bushy habit with many stems or footstalks 
 rising from the surface of the soil. The height of a table 
 plant should be about 20 inches including the pot, which 
 should have a suitable cover over it, and the surface of the soil 
 neatly covered with fresh green moss. 
 
86 PALMS. 
 
 SECTIOISr VIII. 
 
 PALMS. 
 
 The order of Palmacese is confined very much to tropical 
 regions, where many of the species grow with a stately gran- 
 deur and luxuriance which we can never hope to see them 
 attain under cultivation in our hothouses. Still, many of 
 them are grown with much success in our stoves and green- 
 houses, especially those of lower stature, which accommodate 
 themselves better in the limited space that can be afforded for 
 their development. They are all noble-looking plants when 
 they have attained to a fair size, and many of them are ex- 
 tremely graceful even while in a young and small state. It is 
 among these that the best and most useful kinds for exhibition 
 are found, a selection of which is given in this chapter, with a 
 few notes on their characteristics and treatment. As a rule, 
 palms are best when raised from seed, which in general is the 
 only method of increasing them. 
 
 AKECA. 
 A very graceful genus of palms, most of which are tropical 
 plants and require to be grown in the stove, although the}' 
 stand well for weeks at a time in conservatories and moderately 
 heated halls and rooms. The best for exhibition includes A. 
 aurea, A. lutescem, and A. rubra. These grow rapidly under 
 good treatment, and soon attain a considerable size. They 
 grow well in a compost of fibry loam, peat, leaf-mould, and 
 sand ; and when they attain specimen size, loam with a sprink- 
 ling of bone-meal suits them best. A moist atmosphere while 
 growing and plenty of water at the roots is necessary. Liquid 
 manure should be given when the pots are full of roots. 
 
 CALAMUS. 
 An elegant genus of slender, rapid-growing palms, chiefly 
 from the East Indies, and consequently they require a strong 
 moist heat with plenty of water during the growing season. 
 
PALMS. S ( 
 
 C asperrimus, C. ciliarig, and C. plumosiis form fine graceful 
 specimens in a few years, and are the best for exhibition. 
 The}' thrive well in a mixture of loam ^ith a third of leaf- 
 mould and sand. They throw up suckers freely from the 
 roots, which can be taken off and potted to increase the stock. 
 
 CAKYOTA. 
 A handsome genus of palms with bipinnate leaves from six 
 to eight feet in length. Some of the species are rather hardy 
 and dwarf growing, while others grow to a great height. C. 
 Gumraiwjii is a very elegant dwarf species, while C. Rnmpliiana 
 is tall and strong growing. C. sobolifera is a very graceful, 
 slender-growing dwarf palm, which throws up plenty of 
 suckers, by which it can he readily increased. They req^iire 
 to be firmly potted in soil similar to that recommended for 
 Calamus. 
 
 CHA_M-EDOEEA. 
 This is a very elegant dwarf genus of palm, including numer- 
 ous useful species, some of which are particularly hardy, which 
 is a good recommendation for exhibition plants. Three of the 
 best species are C. elegans, C. rjraminifolia, and C. Wendlandii. 
 Thej' thrive best in a light open peat with a little turfy loam 
 and sand, and they require plenty of moisture and close shade 
 while making their growth. 
 
 cha:m.erops. 
 This is a genus of fan-leaved palms, natives of temperate 
 latitudes, and comparatively hardy, so that they are well 
 adapted for gi-eenhouse culture. The best for exhibition are 
 0. excelsa and C. humilis. They are very easily cultivated, 
 and grow well in rather strong loam, with some leaf -mould, 
 sand, and small pieces of charcoal. They can be increased 
 from suckers, which they throw up abundantly after they have 
 reached some size. 
 
 COCOS. 
 Some of the species of this genus are the finest for exhibi- 
 tion in the whole family. The species C. WeddeUiana from 
 
0» PALMS. 
 
 South America is one of the most graceful palms grown, and 
 is always admired, whether exhibited as a table plant or as a 
 specimen. It thrives well in one-half lumpy fibrous loam, and 
 the other half peat, leaf-mould, and broken pieces of sand- 
 stone. It enjoys strong heat and a moist atmosphere to grow 
 in, and must be kept free from insects. 
 
 CORYPHA. 
 
 A small genus, which in the form and size of its foliage is a 
 striking contrast to the Cocos. Some of the species have the 
 most magnificent fan-shaped leaves of any in the noble class 
 to which they belong. C australis, a greenhouse, and C. 
 umhraculifera, a stove species, are the best for exhibition. 
 They require good drainage and abundance of water, and 
 grow well in a compost of half-fibry loam, the other half peat 
 and sand. 
 
 ELAEIS. 
 
 A small genus of useful palms, one species of which produces 
 that valuable commodity the palm-oil of commerce. Two 
 of the best for exhibition are E. guineensis and E. melanococa. 
 They are most useful decorative plants while small or half 
 specimen size. They should be grown in rich loam with a 
 few pieces of sandstone or charcoal to keep it open, and 
 luxuriate in heat and moisture while they are growing. 
 
 GEONOMA. 
 
 This genus shares pre-eminence with Cocos for beauty and 
 gracefulness. Most of the species are dwarf and slender in 
 the stem, which gives them a light and elegant appearance. 
 Among the best for exhibition are tr. gracilis, G. Martiana 
 and G. procumhens. They require to be potted in light spongy 
 peat, fibry loam, and leaf-mould, with a little sand and nodules 
 of charcoal. They are almost aquatics, and much more water 
 should be given them than is generally supplied to palms. To 
 maintain the dark-green colour, they should be closely shaded 
 when growing, and a slight shade afterwards. 
 
PALMS. 89 
 
 KEXTIA. 
 
 A robust, very ornamental, and rather hardy genus, well 
 suited for an intermediate house, and are all excellent subjects 
 for exhibition specimens. Some of the best are K. aiidralift, 
 K. Belmoreana, K. cant ei'hurij ana, and K. Fosteriana. They 
 thrive best in a mixture of loam and peat in equal parts, with 
 silver sand and nodules of charcoal. Unlike many other palms, 
 they grow best when not too much confined at the roots, 
 and they must be copiously suppUed with water at both roots 
 and overhead. Liquid manure when they are growing has a 
 beneficial effect. 
 
 LATAATA. 
 
 This is another genus of fan-leaved palms, all the species of 
 which possess that massive and majestic appearance peculiar 
 to the tribe, and are of the utmost importance as exhibition 
 specimens. Among the best are L. lorhonica, L. glaucoplujlla, 
 and L. rubra. They should be grown in strong loam with a 
 third of leaf-mould and a sprinkling of half-inch bones and 
 nodules of sandstone. They luxuriate in a moist hot stove 
 while making growth, but stand well in a cooler and drier house 
 when the foliage is matured, and they are exceedingly useful as 
 decorative plants. 
 
 LICUAXA. 
 
 A genus which belongs to the fan-leaved section, and in- 
 habits the moist, warm parts of India. Tliey generally 
 possess a slender stem, and require a long time to form a 
 specimen of any height. Among the finest are L. elegans, 
 L. grandis, and L. jpeltata. They grow well in peat and 
 loam in equal parts, with small pieces of sandstone and 
 charcoal. They should receive an abundance of water both 
 at the roots and overhead while growing, and an occasional 
 dose of hquid manure when the pots are full of roots. 
 
 LIVISTOXA. 
 
 This is a noble genus, some of the species growing in 
 their native habitat to the height of a hundred feet. 
 
90 PALMS. 
 
 They are strong robust growers, and eminently adapted for 
 exhibition purposes. Three of the best are L. altissima, 
 L. JenlitTisiana, and L. rohindifolia. They grow freely in 
 equal parts loam and peat, with some sharp sand and half- 
 inch bones. When pot-bound, a judicious application of 
 top-dressing and liquid manure greatly improves their ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 OEEODOXA. 
 
 Another small genus of tall-growing palms, including the 
 famed cabbage-palm, 0. oleraeea, of the West Indies, with 
 long pinnate arching leaves and slender stems, much swollen 
 at the base. Two of the best species are 0. oleraeea, 0. 
 regina, and 0. Saneona. A mixture of loam and peat with a 
 little sand is a suitable compost, and they luxuriate in heat 
 and moisture while growing. 
 
 PHCENICOPHOEIUJI. 
 The handsome P. seycliellarwn is a rare and striking palm 
 from the Seychelles Islands, with leaves about eight feet 
 long and four feet broad when at their best. Their margins 
 are curiously cut up into segments, which look like a deep 
 Vandyke fringe, and have a very fine effect. It thrives well 
 in rough peat and fibry loam, with some broken sandstone. 
 It requires a high moist temperature and a copious supply of 
 moisture in the air andat its roots to fully develop the mag- 
 nificent leaves, which frequent doses of liqiiid manure greatly 
 help. 
 
 PHGENIX. 
 
 A genus of useful and ornamental palms, of which the best 
 and most suitable for exhibition are P. dactylif&)'a (date-palm), 
 P. reclinata, and P. rupicola. To grow them well, they re- 
 quire to be potted in equal parts of loam and peat, with 
 plenty of heat and moisture, and a free use of liquid manure. 
 
 PKITCHAEDIA. 
 This is a small genus of recent introduction, from the 
 South Sea and Pacific Islands. The best exhibition species 
 are P. filamentosa and P. pacijica. They should be grown 
 
PALMS. 91 
 
 in fibry peat and loam in equal parts, and <a little sand and 
 charcoal. They require a plentiful supply of water during 
 the growing season, and a fair allowance at all other times, 
 and are much benefited by a little clear liquid manure. 
 
 PTYCH08PEKMA. 
 This is a handsome genus, with slender, smooth stems and 
 gi-acefuUy arching pinnate leaves, which have a very pretty 
 effect. The young leaves assume a reddish tinge of colour 
 before they are fully expanded, after which they turn dark- 
 green. This peculiarity of the species is very striking and 
 beautiful. The best are P. Alexandne and P. rupieola. They 
 delight in a compost of two-thirds loam and one of peat and 
 sharp sand, with a high temperature and abundance of mois- 
 ture while they are growing. 
 
 EAPHIS. 
 A genus of fan-leaved palms which are very suitable for 
 exhibition specimens. The best species are R. flabelliformis, 
 with its variegated form, and R. humilis. They thrive well 
 in fibry peat and loam in equal parts, with a little sharp sand 
 added. They should receive liquid manure while growing, 
 which assists in developing the foliage and bringing out the 
 colour to perfection. 
 
 SEAFOETHIA. 
 The two species of this genus in cultivation, S. elegans and 
 S. rolmsta, are both elegant and useful palms. They are 
 comparatively hardy, and make good exhibition specimens. 
 Strong loam, leaf-mould, and sand make a good compost for 
 them, and they thrive well under the usual treatment. 
 
 STEVEXSONIA. 
 This genus is composed of only one species, S. grandijiora, 
 one of the noblest of all the palms in cultivation. It is a 
 grand foliage plant, and forms a fine exhibition specimen. 
 A native of the Seychelles, it requires treatment similar to 
 what is recommended for Phoenicophorium. 
 
92 PALMS. 
 
 THKINAX. 
 
 A genus of the fan-palm, some of the species of which are 
 very elegant and well adapted for exhibition. Three of the 
 best are T. elegans, T. muttiflora, and T. -parvijiora. They 
 should be grown in a mixture of rich loam, peat, and river 
 sand, and luxuriate in a warm moist atmosphere while making 
 their growth. 
 
 VERSCHAFFELTIA. 
 
 This genus includes one grand species for exhibition pur- 
 poses, V. splendida, which is a very distinct palm, and forms 
 a fine contrast among others of the family. It is a native of 
 the Seychelles Islands, and requires similar treatment to the 
 Phoenicophorium . 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 The general details of the cultivation of every species of 
 palm are given at length in many excellent works on stove 
 and greenhouse plants, easy of access to all wishing for in- 
 formation, so that we have confined our remarks to a few 
 leading points in their special culture for exhibition. To that 
 we may now add some useful hints of general application to 
 the class. Every precaution should be taken, and every 
 means used, to preserve the foliage of palms in a perfect 
 state, as upon that alone are they valued as exhibition speci- 
 mens. Insects of every kind should be diligently watched 
 for, and all known means of prevention used to keep the 
 plants free from their attack ; and should they ever appear, 
 no time should be lost in extirpating them. Palms delight 
 in a rather close moi.st atmosphere while they are making 
 growth, and are much benefited by a judicious use of arti- 
 ficial and liquid manures. As a rule, they thrive best when 
 grown in moderate-sized pots, which the roots can quickly 
 fill after a shift. Great care must always be exercised in 
 watering newly shifted palms, because over- watering is certain 
 to sour the soil, and the result will be disappointment ; at the 
 same time, they must not be allowed to suffer from want of 
 water, the result of which will be equally detrimental to the 
 
MISCELLAXEOrS EXHIBITIOls^ PLAiJTS. 93 
 
 health of the plant. They should not be subject to any sudden 
 changes, and when nearing the show-day, they ought to be 
 carefully and gradually hardened off, so as to be able to bear 
 the exposure without risk of injury. In preparing the plants 
 for transport to the exhibition, the leaves should be carefully 
 drawn up towards the centre, and be securely tied to a stout 
 state, round which cloth and cotton-wool has been wrapped, 
 to prevent injury by rubbing. The pinnse should be all 
 neatly laid in, and secured with strands of flat raffia, using 
 tissue-paper and cotton-wool wads wherever necessary, to pre- 
 vent crushing or rubbing. When all are securely laid in, 
 the whole should be wrapped in a soft cloth or sheet, and 
 the plant may then be transported any reasonable distance in 
 perfect safety, even in coldish weather if frost does not pre- 
 vail. All packing materials must be entirely removed from 
 every specimen before it is set up for competition ; and after 
 they are placed, a careful glance around ought to be given, to 
 see that every leaf is shaken out free, and all in perfect order. 
 Eqvial care should be given to the repacking and taking home 
 of exhibition plants, because every blemish to the foliage is 
 permanent, and can never be got rid of till the leaf is removed. 
 When safely returned to their quarters, they should be kept 
 it little close and moist for a few days, when they will pick 
 themselves up, and look as fresh and beautiful as if fchey had 
 never been out of the house at a flower-show ; and whenever 
 they are wanted, they are ready again to do the same work, 
 which, in short, means " successful exhibiting.'' 
 
 JUDGISG. 
 
 In judging Palms the chief points of merit are : (1.) A free 
 graceful habit; (2.) size and freshness of the leaves; and (3.) 
 size, health, and cleanness of the plant. 
 
'.J-4 JIISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 Among the leading features in this highly important section 
 of exhibition plants are : (1.) The autumn and winter flower- 
 ing Chrysanthemum ; (2.) bulbous plants in flower, the best of 
 which are the Amaryllis, Hyacinth, Lily of the Valley, Nar- 
 cissus, and Tulip ; (3. ) soft-wooded plants, which flower 
 naturally in winter and spring, or are amenable to mild 
 forcing, such as the Auricula, Balsam, Begonia, Calceolaria, 
 Cineraria, Coxcomb, Cyclamen, Geranium, Gloxinia, Hydran- 
 gea, Mignonette, Pelargonium, Petunia, and Primula ; and 
 (4.) hardy plants, which force easily, and produce a rich display 
 of the most beautiful colours when so treated, including 
 Azalea, Deutzia, Dielytra, Lilac, Rhododendron, Rose, Spirsea, 
 and many others. In the prize schedules of the leading 
 Horticultural Societies most of the kinds enumerated are 
 favoured with one or more classes to themselves, and they also 
 form an important feature in all collections and groups of 
 plants when they are not specially excluded. The principal 
 genera and the best kinds are described in the following pages. 
 
 ALOYSIA. 
 The Sweet Verbena, Aloysia citriodora, is a plant with 
 little show or decorative value ; but its sweet citron-scented 
 leaves have given it a wide reputation, and its easy culture 
 has established it as a favourite exhibition plant with the 
 cottager and the amateur. It is a free grower, which, with 
 good management, will produce a fair specimen in two years 
 from the cutting. Pot in rich sandy loam and leaf-mould, 
 set the plants in a frame near the glass, stake the leading 
 shoot, and pinch the side shoots during summer to form a 
 pyramid. After the growth is made the water should be 
 reduced, and the plants set in the open air to ripen the wood. 
 Being deciduous, it should be kept almost dry to rest it in 
 winter, and the shoots should be well pruned in previous to 
 starting in a mild heat, earlier or later, according to the time 
 
MISCELLA^v'EOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 95 
 
 it is wanted for exhibition. When fairly started, it should be 
 grown in a frame or airy position in the greenhouse, and to 
 have it in fine condition for the show, pinch and regulate the 
 shoots to make a well-filled pyramid, and supply the roots 
 with weak liquid manure to give breadth and substance to the 
 leaves. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and symmetry of the 
 specimen ; (2. ) breadth, thickness, and health of the leaves. 
 
 ASPIDISTRA. 
 
 The Aspidistra lurida variegata is also eminently adapted 
 for culture as an exhibition plant by the amateur, and, like 
 the Sweet Verbena, it is often met with in fine condition in 
 the cottagers' windows. It even takes a high place, when 
 well-coloured, in any collection of greenhouse foUage plants, 
 and for general usefulness in house decoration it has few 
 equals. It is easily increased by division of the plant, and 
 should be potted in a mixtui'e of rough loam and peat, with 
 some charcoal and bits of sandstone. Shift into larger pots as 
 required without disturbing the roots, and give plenty of water 
 in summer, with a little liquid manure to assist in developing 
 the foliage to its full size, care being taken not to overdo it 
 to spoil the variegation. Shade from strong sun, and give 
 enough water in winter to keep the leaves and roots healthy. 
 
 The points of merit are: (1.) Size, health, and vigour of 
 the plant : (2.) size and colour of the leaves, which should be 
 without blemish and the variegation pure. 
 
 AURICULA. 
 
 The Auricula, Primula Auricula, or Bear's Ear, better known 
 in Scotland as the " Dusty Miller," has again become a very 
 popular plant, after suffering neglect for a considerable period. 
 Florists arrange them into Alpine and Stage Auriculas, and 
 the latter are divided into Green-edged, Grey-edged, White- 
 edged, and Selfs. 
 
 The following are some of the best varieties for competition 
 in each class : — 
 
 Alpine. — A. F. Barron, Colonel Soott, Evening Star, Mrs. Dodwell, 
 Sailor Prince, and Triumphant. 
 
96 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 Green-edged. — Apollo, Colonel Taylor, F. D. Horner, Freedom, Lady 
 Ann, and Prince of Greens. 
 
 Grey-edged. — Alderman, Charles E. Brown, Dr. Horner, George Light- 
 body, John Waterston, and Robert Traill. 
 
 White-edged. — Acme, Beauty, Conservative, Glory, Smiling Beauty, 
 and True Briton, 
 
 Selfs. — Blackbird, Formosa, Heroine, Lord of Lorn, Othello, and 
 Pizarro. 
 
 The points of a perfect flower of the Stage Auricula are, the 
 tube yellow — not always obtained — circular, well filled with 
 golden-coloured anthers, and free from fluting ; the paste cir- 
 cular, solid, and as near white as possible ; the ground colour 
 unbroken and distinct where it surrounds the paste, but its outer 
 edge flashes more or less into the edge, although the irregulari- 
 ties should never extend through it. The edge should be pure 
 in colour, and the circumference of the pip should not be notched 
 nor pointed, but perfectly even and smooth. Selfs have gene- 
 rally a notch in the lip of the petal, but some are without 
 it, and the aim of all raisers is to have the "roseleaf " petal 
 in all new varieties. Alpines should have a golden yellow or 
 white centre, without powder, the body varied in colour, and 
 the edge of one colour, paler at the outer edge. 
 
 Auriculas may be grown in the open border in ordinary 
 soil, but to grow specimens for exhibition in their most perfect 
 condition, a small house or frame, constructed expressly for 
 them, is indispensable for success. In it they can receive 
 abundance of light and air, two important agents in their 
 successful cultivation, and be securely protected from storms 
 of wind and rain. The plants should be regularly inspected, 
 and their wants punctually met, so as to command the greatest 
 success, The following compost suits them admirably : — Three 
 parts of well-rotted turfy loam from an old pasture, one of dry 
 cow-dung, one of leaf-mould, and one of sand, and in mixing 
 the compost every worm that is seen in it should be picked 
 out. Four-inch pots are generally sufficient, but the larger 
 plants require 5-inch pots. In England it is usual to re-pot 
 the plants in May, but in Scotland the best time is July and 
 August. Use clean pots and drain them well. Fill in the 
 soil and press it down at the sides of the pot, leaving a cone 
 
MISCELLAXEOrS EXHIBITION PLA^'TS. 97 
 
 in the centre. Shake the earth clean from the roots of the 
 plant, examine it carefully, and cut clean away all diseased or 
 decaying parts, and trim the roots to about two inches in 
 length. Dress the cut parts with powdered charcoal, and put 
 some of it on the top of the cone, upon which place the plant, 
 and spread the roots equally around. Press the soil firmly 
 about the roots, and leave a quarter of an inch of the bai-e 
 stem above the surface of the soil, which should be half an 
 inch below the rim of the pot. To avoid bleeding, all leaves 
 must be thoroughly withered before they are taken off. When 
 re-potted, water the plants and put them back into the fiame, 
 and afterwards give water on]j when they require it, being 
 very careful to let none drop into the heait of the plants. 
 Remove them from the frame to the house about the end of 
 September, where they should remain till they bloom, and 
 when the trusses are well xip they should be shaded from 
 bright sun. Greenfly sometimes attacks the pladts, but if the 
 insects are at once washed off with a sponge they do little 
 damage. In some places the plant is infested with a small 
 grev louse called the "Woolly Aphis,'' which should be imme- 
 diately cleared off whenever it appears, either at the collar of 
 the plant or on the roots. Plants for competition should have 
 a truss of five, seven, nine, or eleven pips, and before taking 
 them to the show some cotton-wool should be placed between 
 the foot-stalks to keep the pips from injury, and the truss tied 
 to a small stake, these being removed when the show is reached. 
 They should be securely packed in boxes to prevent injury in 
 transit. In a collection of Auriculas, the plants should be even- 
 sized, and the colours distinct. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Health of the foliage, height and strength of the flower 
 stem ; (2.) the truss of flowers should be so disposed that the 
 whole may be seen ; (3.) the pips should be round, flat, and 
 free from blemish ; and (4.) they should be as near perfect as 
 possible in colour and markings. 
 
 AZALEA. 
 The Ghent and Japanese {A. sinensis, syn. A. mollis) varieties 
 supply diversity of colour and profusion of bloom at any period 
 
98 MISCELfANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 during winter and spring, with very little trouble and at small 
 expense. A few of the best Japanese varieties are Apelles, 
 Baron E. de Rothschild, Consul Pecher, Flora, Phcebe, and 
 A. sinensis alba grandiflora ; and of Ghent varieties, Admiral 
 de Euyter, Ooccinea Major, Madame J. Baumann, Macrantha, 
 Princess of Orange, and Viscosa floribunda. They are easily 
 grown, fair success being attained by lifting healthy plants 
 well set with flower-buds from the open border, potting them 
 in sandy peat, and introducing them to the forcing-house. 
 Plants that have been well managed and established in pots 
 previous to forcing are, however, more reliable, and should 
 be preferred. In a brisk heat they will flower in about six 
 weeks, but too rapid forcing is detrimental to good qualit}'. 
 Liquid manure should be given when the buds begin to swell, 
 and continued till the flowers are opening, when the plants 
 should be removed to the greenhouse and shaded. The points 
 of merit are: (1.) Size and health of the plant; (2.) size and 
 form of flowers and profusion of bloom; and (.3.) substance of 
 petals, pureness of colour, and distinctness of marking. 
 
 BALSAM. 
 This makes a showy and effective exhibition specimen when 
 grown and flowered to perfection. Being an annual, it is raised 
 from seed, which should be selected from the best strain, sown 
 early in March, in shallow pans filled with fine loam, leaf- 
 mould, and a sprinkling of sand, and placed in a hotbed to 
 germinate quickly. When about two inches high the seedlings 
 should be potted into four-inch pots, set near the glass, and 
 kept shaded till the roots are running freely, when abundance 
 of air and light should be admitted to keep the plants dwarf 
 and compact. When the pots are well filled with roots, shift 
 the plants into two sizes larger, giving them richer soil. The 
 final shift into nine-inch pots should be given as soon as the 
 roots reach the side, using rich soil, and potting moderately 
 firm. When the flower-buds appear, the plants should he 
 placed in an airy greenhouse, fully exposed to the light, and 
 supplied with weak liquid manure twice a week ; that made from 
 sheep-droppings and soot is excellent. The points of merit are ; 
 
MISCELLAXE0U8 EXHIBITION PLANTS. 99 
 
 (1.) Size, compactness, and freshness of the plant; (2.) quality 
 and quantity of expanded flowers, which should be double, full, 
 and well formed. 
 
 BEGONIA. 
 The species and varieties of Begonia are both numerous and 
 useful. The tuberous-rooted section, to which our remarks 
 apply, includes splendid varieties, which produce seedlings, if 
 carefully selected, of equal merit, if not superior, to the parents. 
 A year-old tuber of good size is a suitable subject on which to 
 build an exhibition specimen. The roots should be shaken 
 out in March, and potted in six-inch pots, using a compost of 
 rich sandy loam, old manure rubbed down, some bone-meal, 
 sand, and wood-ashes. Plunge the pots near the glass in a 
 mild heat, and give the shoots all the light and air possible to 
 ensure a sturdy short-jointed growth. Before the flower-buds 
 appear, remove the plants to a warm greenhouse, re-pot, and 
 train out the shoots, keeping the lower ones down over the 
 edge of the pot. Pinch the strong shoots and cut out the 
 weak ones, to admit light and air through the centre of the 
 plant. When the roots are thiough the new soil, feed with 
 weak liquid manure and shade from bright sun. The points 
 of merit are: (1.) Size and healthy condition of the plant; 
 (2.) size and number of flowers; and (3.) substance and colour 
 of the flowers, which should be pure, bright, and distinct. 
 
 CALCEOLARIA. 
 The herbaceous or greenhouse kinds of Calceolaria have 
 flowers so different from those of other plants, and the variety 
 of colour is so diversified as to give them prominence among 
 other subjects for exhibition. Seed from the finest strain 
 should be sown in June or Jul}', according to the time the 
 plants are wanted in flower. When the seedlings are large 
 enough, prick them in boxes four inches apart among sandy 
 soil and leaf-mould, and when they have made six to eight 
 leaves, shift into six-inch pots, using one part sandy loam, and 
 one part leaf-mould, sand, rotted sheep or cow manure. Place 
 near the glass in a cool frame on a damp bottom, water regu- 
 larly, and keep them clear of insects. When the roots have 
 
100 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 reached the side of the pots, they should be shifted into nine-inch 
 or flowering pots, giving no more heat than is necessary to 
 keep out frost. Early in spring give liquid manure regularly, 
 made from sheep-droppings and soot, and an occasional pinch 
 of good artificial manure spread over the pots once a week, 
 and watered in with clean soft water, has a beneficial effect 
 on the size and quality of the flowers. Stake the plants neatly 
 before the flowers begin to expand, keeping the lower side-shoots 
 down to an angle of 4.5°, and the remainder equally distributed 
 over the plant. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and health 
 of the plant, which should be dwarf and compact; (2.) number 
 of heads and size of flowers ; and (3.) texture, colour, and form 
 of the flowers. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 An extensive and useful tribe of plants, which has repre- 
 sentatives throughout Europe and Asia ; the species from 
 which the most popular flower of the day has sprung, C. 
 sinensis, being a native of China. The varieties have been 
 crossed and re-crossed, with the result that all imaginable 
 colours and forms have been produced, and it almost seems 
 as if it were impossible to further improve or distort the race. 
 The following dozen varieties are some of the best for culture 
 as specimen plants for exhibition : — Alfred Salter, Belle Paule, 
 Blanche Eleur, Bouquet Fait, Golden Christine, James Salter, 
 Margot, Madame Bertie Rendatler, Madame de Sevin, Mrs. 
 G. Bundle, Mrs. Dixon, and Soleil Levant. These represent 
 the various forms, and are all free-flowering, which is of the 
 greatest importance in plants for exhibition. The best time to 
 take cuttings is from the middle of December to the middle of 
 January, and the best place to strike them is in a cool house 
 or frame where heat can be applied to keep out frost. In 
 selecting the cuttings, the sturdy, healthy, clean shoots at or 
 near the base of the stem shovild be taken. They should be 
 inserted firmly in 2j-ineh pots, using a mixture of leaf-mould 
 and river sand in about equal proportions. They should 
 then be set as near the glass as possible, and in a position 
 where they can be shaded from the sun, and kept close 
 until they are making roots freely, when they should receive 
 
MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 101 
 
 all the light and air they can stand without flagging, so as 
 to secure short-jointed sturdy growth. When the plants 
 nearly fill the pots with roots, they should be shifted into pots 
 an inch larger, using loam, leaf-mould, and sand, replaced in 
 the same position, and carefully watered until the roots have 
 penetrated the new soil. By the beginning of March all 
 rooted cuttings should have received their first shift, and the 
 most forward will be ready for the next, after which they 
 should be placed in cold frames, protecting them only from 
 frost and cold winds. It is a good jDlan to turn the plants 
 cai'efully out of the pots and examine their roots before shift- 
 ing them, as some varieties root quickly and may be ready 
 for shifting by the beginning of March, while others may not 
 require it until towards the end of April. Great care and 
 discrimination is required at this stage of their growth, and 
 any slow-rooting varieties should be brought forward with 
 heat, to be finally shifted along with the others. 
 
 The second shift should be into 5i-inch pots, the strong 
 growers into pots an inch larger, using soil similar to that 
 employed at the last shift. When the roots have taken 
 possession of the soil, the plants should receive their final 
 shift into flowering pots, which may be 9 or 10 inches in 
 diameter for single plants, and 11 or 12 inches when three 
 plants are placed in a pot. Larger pots are unnecessary, and 
 should not be allowed in competition. The compost should 
 consist of two-thirds rich fibry loam, and one-third in equal 
 parts of leaf-mould and di'ied cow-manure, with the addition 
 of rough sand to make the whole free and open. To every 
 barrow-load should be added one peck of bone-meal and one- 
 half peck of any good artificial manure. In the case of exti'a- 
 heavy soil, a little charcoal nuts should be added, and the 
 whole well mixed together. A " potting-stick " should be 
 used to firm the soil round the side of the pot, so as to pro- 
 duce hard fibry roots, which give firmness and solidity to the 
 wood, a condition essential for the production of a quantity of 
 flowers of good quality. Over-crowding in the frames should 
 be avoided, and the sashes should be taken off in favourable 
 weather, but replaced in frosty nights or during heavy rain. 
 
102 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 If greenfly makes its appearance, the infested shoots should 
 be dusted when dry with tobacco-powder; and if mildew 
 appears, it should be immediately dusted with flowers of^ 
 sulphur-. The plants should be ready for their summer 
 quarters by the 1st of June. An open airy position, but 
 well sheltered from strong winds, is the best for them. They 
 should be arranged at suitable distances apart, leaving suffi- 
 cient room to get between them for disbudding, tying, and 
 watering. There are various modes of training adopted for 
 exhibition plants, such as pyramid, standard, and others, but 
 unless a particular form is specially stipulated for in the 
 schedule, the best, as producing good results with a minimum 
 of labour, is the low bush form. The young shoots should 
 be early started round the stakes in a spiral course, and 
 pinched in the end of May or beginning of June, according 
 to the earliness or lateness of the variet}'. Three shoots 
 should be preserved from this break, which would give nine 
 crown buds to the plant. This number being rather few, and 
 possibly too early, these shoots should also be pinched after 
 making about six inches of growth, and other three shoots 
 preserved from each, thus giving tvrenty-seven terminal buds 
 to the plant, which number is suflicient for a pot of large 
 flowering chrysanthemums. All other shoots should be at 
 once rubbed out, the branches tied well down to keep the 
 plants dwarf, and the leaves all brought to the outside for 
 exposure to the light. During July the growth will be rapid, 
 and requires much attention. The plants should be looked 
 over twice every day, giving water only to those actually 
 requiring it ; too much vs^ater does more harm to the plants 
 than slight want of it, but they must not be allowed to become 
 parched or to flag. Where the pots are exposed to the rays 
 of the sun, they may be shaded with boards, or any suitable 
 material at command. When the buds appear, they should 
 be all nipped out except the terminal ones, which should be 
 carefully preserved and tied into position, spreading them as 
 equally as possible over the plants. 
 
 When the plants are thoroughly established and the pots 
 full of roots, usually about the middle of July in the case 
 
MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 103 
 
 of vigoi'ous growers, they should be fed every second or 
 third daj' with weak liquid manure, gradually increasing the 
 strength of the liquid as they are able to bear it. We have 
 adopted the following method and materials, with fair success, 
 for feeding chrysanthemums. First, a barrowful of fresh 
 cow-dung and a bushel of soot are put into a half-hogshead 
 cask, mixing it welL The cask is then filled with water, 
 well stiri'ed, and allowed to stand to settle, when the clear 
 liquid is fit for use, and is reduced to the required strength 
 with clean soft water. When the clear liquid is exhausted, 
 a barrowful of horse-droppings is added, and the cask re- 
 filled with water, well stii-red, and allowed to settle before 
 using. In the second week in August the plants are top- 
 dressed with about half an inch thick of the following mix- 
 ture : — A third of turfy loam, another of leaf-mould and coarse 
 sand, and the lemaining third equal parts of bone-meal, arti- 
 ficial manure, and wood-ashes. Until the roots have fully 
 occupied the top-dressing, only clean water is given ; after- 
 wards diluted liquid manure is again applied. About the 
 first week of September the cask is cleaned out, and a 
 barrowful of fresh sheep-droppings, the same of cow-dung, 
 and a bushel of soot are put in, filling it up with water, 
 stirring it well, and allowing it time to settle as before. It 
 is then given to the plants at every watering, the strength 
 being carefully regulated according to the condition and re- 
 quirements of the plants. In about a fortnight afterwards 
 a barrowful of manure from the poultry-yard, with a little 
 sulphate of ammonia, are put into the cask, which carries 
 on the supply till the beginning of October. The cask is 
 then refilled with a mixture of cow, sheep, and pig's dung, 
 adding some soot and artificial manure, which will last as 
 long as liquid manure is beneficial. These have all proved 
 excellent liquids, but they must be used with sound judg- 
 ment, and inexperienced cultivators must remember that 
 " weak and often " is a golden rule in the use of all stimu- 
 lating manures, whether they are liquid or solid, and they 
 should never be applied to plants suffering from dryness. 
 Bv the beginning of October the plants should be well 
 
104 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 furnished with strong leathery leaves, covering all stems 
 and stakes, and the buds hard and well formed. As soon 
 afterwards as there is any danger from frost, the plants 
 should be taken into the greenhouse, given plenty of air in 
 favourable weather, and a little heat early in the day to 
 dispel damp. If necessary, the heat may be kept up gently, 
 to bring the blooms forward for the show, but the less of 
 artificial heat that is required the better for the blooms. Tlie 
 points of merit are: (i.) Size and condition of the plant; 
 (2.) size, number, and freshness of the blooms ; and (3.) colour 
 and substance of the petals. 
 
 CINEEAEIA. 
 The Cineraria is another very showy plant, which makes an 
 excellent companion to the Calceolaria, and succeeds under 
 similar conditions, except that it will not endure so low a 
 degree of cold with impunity. There are some excellent 
 named varieties, but plants raised from seed of a good strain 
 are all that can be desired. Seedhng plants for exhibition 
 must be from a specially good selected strain, or they are just 
 so much labour lost, and end in bitter disappointment. Seed 
 should be sown about the same time as recommended for the 
 Calceolaria, and the plants grown on in the same manner. 
 The final shift should be into ten-inch pots, using a little 
 more manure and rougher soil than at previous shifts. They 
 are particularly subject to the attacks of greenfly, and should 
 be slightly fumigated at short intervals to keep them in check, 
 as they will not bear strong fumigation. The points of merit 
 are : (i.) Size and condition of the plant ; (2.) size of flowers, 
 and number expanded; and (3.) breadth, substance, and form 
 of the petals, and distinctness of marking. 
 
 COCKSCOMB. 
 Although of a rather stiff and formal habit, this is a 
 favourite exhibition plant in many localities, and well repays 
 a little extra care to bring it to perfection. Being a stove 
 annual, the same soil and treatment that the Balsam requires 
 suits it well ; but it must be grown throughout in stove-heat 
 
MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 105 
 
 to get it up to its best exhibition form. It should be kept 
 close to the glass to keep it dwarf and stocky ; but if it gi'ows 
 too high, that can be remedied by notching the stem just as the 
 comb appears, on both sides near the base of the leaves, and 
 " mossing " it with a handful of rich light soil enclosed within 
 the moss, into which the stem will quickly root from the upper 
 part of the notch. When the comb is fully grown, the stem 
 will be well rooted in the moss, and then may be safely cut off 
 below the ball, placed in a suitable pot, and shaded for a few 
 days till the roots run freely into the new soil, when it should 
 be gradually hardened off, and is then ready for exhibition. 
 Combs of a very large size have been grown in an ordinary 
 dung frame, when kept close to the glass and supplied with 
 liquid manure twice a week. The chief points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size of the comb and health of the foliage ; (2.) form, of the 
 comb, which should be close and even; and (3.) substance and 
 colour of the comb, which should be uniform. 
 
 CYCLAJMEN. 
 The Persian Cyclamen forms a most beautiful and effective 
 dwarf specimen when well grown, and it is specially attractive 
 when used along with other plants as an edging to a group. 
 There are many good named varieties, but plants can be 
 grown from seed, the best of which will make first-rate 
 specimens for exhibition the second season after being raised. 
 The seed should be sown early in August, and the seedlings 
 pricked off and grown on in rich light loam and sand with 
 all the care that can be given to them, so as to secure well- 
 ripened crowns two inches or more in diameter by the fol- 
 lowing autumn. They should be re-potted into five-inch pots, 
 and started from September to November, according to the 
 date of the show. They thrive well in a compost of rich fibry 
 loam, leaf-mould, well-rotted manure, and silver sand, well 
 mixed, and made only moderately fiirm in the pot. A little 
 bottom-heat should be given until the roots are well through 
 the soil, when the plants should receive a final shift into seven- 
 inch pots, to which they should be confined in competitions. 
 A slight shade from strong sun and a plentiful supply of water 
 
106 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 are essential to free growth. When they are nearly full 
 grown and the flowers appearing, they should be set in an 
 airy place near the glass in the greenhouse, and supplied 
 freely with manure- water. The points of merit are : (1.) Size 
 and perfect condition of the plant ; (2.) number and size of the 
 flowers ; and (3.) quality of the flowers, which should be well 
 formed, petals thick, pure, and rich in colour. 
 
 DEUTZIA. 
 
 The most useful of this genus are D. crenata jiure plena and 
 D. gracilis. The latter is a most graceful plant, and the one 
 generally chosen for exhibition. Beginning with a healthy 
 specimen just done flowering, the shoots which have borne the 
 flowers should be well cut back to encourage strong growths 
 from the base. When they have grown about two inches, the 
 plants should be turned out, the roots shortened, and re-potted 
 in sandy loam, leaf-mould, well-rotted manure, and a sprinkling 
 of bone-meal. The heat and moisture in a newly started 
 vinery suits them well while making growth, and when it is 
 finished the plants should be gradually hardened off, after- 
 wards placed outside to ripen, and then stored in a cold frame 
 for the winter. Before starting, the shoots should be regulated 
 and trained into shape to form a free feathery bush, which 
 is the best shape for exhibition, the shoots bending out gi-ace- 
 fully, and so disposed that the flowers may be well seen. They 
 should be started and ti'eated as the Azalea for exhibition. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) Size and health of the plant ; (2.) num- 
 ber and length of sprays; and (3.) size and texture of the 
 flowers. 
 
 DIELYTRA. 
 
 D. spedahilis is a showy hardy herbaceous perennial, well 
 adapted for forcing for exhibition. Large stools should be 
 planted three feet apart in n rich open border, and due atten- 
 tion paid to their proper treatment for two seasons, by care- 
 fully manuring, watering, and staking them, when they will 
 be in the best condition for forcing. A 12-inch pot should be 
 filled with one or more of the stools, using rich loam and well- 
 
MISGELL^iJN-EOrS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 107 
 
 rotted manure, with good drainage. After being watered, 
 they maj- be started at once if the time is right for the show. 
 The plants, when in full growth, should be liberally fed, and 
 the flower-stems neatly supported by stakes. The points of 
 merit are : (1.) Size and health of the plant; (2.) number and 
 length of the panicles of flowers; and (3.) size of flowers and 
 purity of colour. 
 
 GERAXIUil. 
 
 Zonale Geraniums for exhibition purposes are usually divided 
 into (1.) Zonales proper, or those with a more or less dis- 
 tinct dark zone on a green leaf; (2.) Bicolors ; (3.) Bronzes; 
 and (i.) Tricolors, in accordance with the prominent feature.^ 
 of their foliage. The Zonales are grown and exhibited for their 
 flowers alone, and are generally subdivided into single and 
 double- flow^ered varieties. The variegated-leaved, or Bicolor, 
 Bronze, and Tricolor divisions, are exhibited solely for their 
 foliage, and flowers rising above it are decidedly objectionable. 
 A few excellent varieties of single Zonales are H. Cannell, John 
 Cxibbons, Meteor, iviphetos, Plutarch, and Vesuvius; and of 
 double varieties, Charming, Circe, Gambetta, Gloire de France, 
 r^Irs. H. Cannell, and ilrs. Langtry. Ivy-leaved geraniums 
 may also be included here, because the great improvement in 
 them in recent years fully entitles them to a special class at 
 exhibitions. Some of the best varieties are A. F. Barron, 
 Emile Lemoine, La France, Masterpiece, Madame Thibaut, 
 and Charles Turner. Geraniums can be had in flower all 
 the year round under good treatment, but the cultivation 
 described here applies speciall}' to those grown for exhibition 
 at spring shows. The plant-s should be firmly potted in light 
 loam, leaf-mould, sand, and rotted manure well rubbed down, - 
 with a sprinkling of bone-meal and wood-ashes. The shoots 
 should be tied down to wires running outside the pot, two or 
 three in number, according to the size of the plant. A light 
 airy position in the greenhouse should be given them, and the 
 strong shoots stopped till the specimen is complete ; when the 
 foliage should round off nicely to about three inches below the 
 rim of the pot. Liquid manure should be given when growth 
 
108 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 is being made, and tiie flower-trusses picked off as soon as 
 they appear, until three or four weeks, according to the time 
 of the year, before the plants are wanted for exhibition. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) Size, form, and health of the plant; 
 (2.) number and size of the trusses, which should stand well 
 above the foliage ; and (3.) quality and size of the flowers, which 
 should be fresh and pure in colour ; the single large and broad 
 in petal, and of good texture ; the double well formed, full, 
 and each pip standing out clear, without crushing in the truss. 
 Some of the best Bicolors are Chelsea Gem, Elegance, Flower 
 of the Day, Iduna, Mrs. Parker, and Triomphe de Gand. Of 
 Bronzes : Best Bronze, Black Douglas, and Mar^chal M'Mahon. 
 Of Golden-leaved : Cloth of Gold, Crystal Palace Gem, and 
 Golden Superb. Of Golden Tricolors : Lucy Grieve, Master- 
 piece, Mrs. Henry Cox, JMrs. Strang, Prince of Wales, and 
 Queen of Tricolors. And of Silver Tricolors : Lass o' Gowrie, 
 Her Majesty, Isle of Beauty, Italia Unita, Mrs. Laing, and 
 Queen of Hearts. Theii' cultivation is similai' to that of the 
 Zonale section, except that the soil should not be so rich, and 
 being more diflicult to keep healthy during the winter, they 
 should be placed on a shelf near the glass in the warmest end 
 of the house, and no more water given than will keep the roots 
 from shrivelling. The Bicolors and Tricolors should be grown 
 in a cold frame during summer, and kept close to the glass. 
 The Bronze and Golden-leaved ma}' be set on boards in the 
 open air in a sheltered place. When the pots ai'e well filled 
 with roots, liquid manure may be given to increase the breadth 
 of the foliage, but not sufficient to affect their perfect colouring. 
 All flowers should be removed as they appear, and the shoots 
 tied in and pinched as they require it. The points of merit 
 are: (1.) Size, health, and form of the plant; (2.) colour and 
 freshness of the leaves ; and (3.) colour of the zone, which should 
 be distinct and bright, and the light parts of the leaf pure and 
 clean. The points of merit in the Bronze section are similar, 
 except that the zone should be a light or dark bronze, and dis- 
 tinct from the other parts of the leaf, which should also be of 
 a bronze shade ; while the Golden and other kinds should con- 
 form exactly to their names. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 109 
 
 GLOXINIA. 
 
 There are many good varieties of this popular flower in 
 cultivation, from which the best for exhibition can easily be 
 selected, those with erect flowei's being generally most appre- 
 ciated. Great variety of colour and excellent form can be 
 obtained from seed, which should be sown in pans of fine peat 
 and leaf-mould during February, and placed in a temperature 
 of 65°. Care should be taken not to cover the seed, which 
 should be sown on a thin layer of pure silver sand, pressed 
 down, and watered through a fine rose. Cover the pan with 
 glass and shade the young seedlings from sun, and as soon as 
 they can be handled prick out in boxes, and admit sun and air 
 after they have started to grow. Their subsequent treatment 
 is similar to that of the Begonia, except that fibrous peat 
 should be substituted for loam, and they require a higher 
 temperature to develop the foliage and flowers. The best 
 varieties among the seedlings should be selected in autumn, 
 and well ripened preparatory to being cultivated for exhi- 
 bition specimens the following season. The points of merit 
 are : (1.) Size of plant, health of foliage, and number of 
 flowers ; (2. ) size and substance of flowers ; and (3. ) colour, 
 which should be pure and bright, and the marking distinct. 
 
 GUELDER ROSE. 
 
 This well-known and conspicuous hardy flowering shrub is 
 one of the most useful for early spring forcing, and when a 
 good specimen is seen at a flower-show it attracts much atten- 
 tion, with its profusion of globular heads of snow-white flowers. 
 Suitable plants should be well prepared beforehand, by a year 
 or more of good cultivation in rich loam, in a warm sheltered 
 spot, fully exposed to the sun, where the plant can be carefully 
 built up into an exhibition specimen by attention to water- 
 ing, manuring, and regulating the shoots, which should be 
 thoroughly ripened the autumn previous to the show. The 
 plants should be lifted and potted in good sound loam as soon 
 as the leaves have fallen in October, and then set away in a 
 cool place, protected from storms until the time arrives for 
 
110 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 starting them. About eight weeks careful forcing in spring 
 is sufficient to bring them into flower. Great care is required 
 to regulate the opening of the flowers, so that they may 
 carry safely to the show, which must be within a few days 
 after they are fully expanded. The points of merit are: (1.) 
 Size and vigour of the plant; (2.) size, freshness, and number 
 of heads of flowers; and (3.) colour pure white, and petals of 
 good substance. 
 
 HYACINTH. 
 
 There is a great choice of good varieties among these, and 
 every competitor has his own particular fancy. A dozen of 
 fine varieties for exhibition, including those with blue, red, 
 white, and yellow flowers, are Alba maxima. Czar Peter, 
 Grandeur-a-Merveille, Ida, King of Blacks, King of Blues, 
 King of Yellows, Kohinoor, La Grandeur, Lord Macaulay, 
 Solfaterre, and Von Schiller. Only well-ripened firm bulbs 
 can produce first-rate exhibition flowers. They should be 
 potted in October to be in flower in April. Use five-inch pots, 
 well drained and filled with a rich compost of light loam, leaf- 
 mould, sand, and well-rotted manure, placing the bulb about 
 two-thirds into the soil. Water, and then plunge the pots in 
 ashes in the open air, covering them six inches deep. Remove 
 them to the greenhouse when about t'v^'o inches started, shading 
 slightly till the leaves become green, and then give air freely 
 to keep them sturdy. As soon as the flower-scapes appear 
 the plants should be regularly fed with weak liquid manure, 
 made from sheep-droppings and soot, and given an occasional 
 sprinkling of guano, or any good artificial manure, on the 
 surface of the soil, and watering it in. 
 
 The spikes of flowers should be attended to as they grow, 
 and all pips put into place, so that the head may be even and 
 legular. The flower-stem should be so stout as to keep the 
 spike erect without the aid of a stake, but for safety in transit 
 to the show it is necessary to support each flower-spike with 
 a neat stake. The spikes should be carefully dressed, and 
 all pips placed in proper position by the use of two pointed 
 sticks before they are staged. The points of merit are : 
 
MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITIOX PLANTS. Ill 
 
 (1.) The length, diameter, and symmetiy of the spike ; (2.) the 
 size and substance of the pips, which should be well shaped ; 
 and (3.) the purity, and richness of the colour. 
 
 HYDRANGEA. 
 
 A genus of hardy or greenhouse plants, some of which are 
 largely cultivated for their handsome heads of bloom. They 
 are naturally autumn-flowering, but with special treatment 
 can be brought into flower early in the season. The best for 
 exhibition are H. liortends and H. paniculata grandiflora. 
 The former produces large heads of rose-coloured flowers, while 
 the latter has long spikes of beautiful pure white flowers. The 
 proper ripening of the wood and early setting of the flower- 
 buds are the two points which must be secured to ensure 
 successful forcing and early flowering. As soon as the flower- 
 ing is past, the plants should be cut down to two eyes from 
 the base of the shoots, re-potted, placed in heat to make their 
 growth, and afterwards transferred to an airy position near the 
 glass in the greenhouse till the wood is ripe and the buds pro- 
 minent. They should not be kept too dry during winter, and 
 may be forced into flower under the same conditions as the 
 Deutzia. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and health of 
 the specimen ; (2.) number and size of heads of flower ; and 
 and (-3.) size, substance, and colour of the flowers. 
 
 LILAC. 
 This is one of the most beautiful and useful of hardy flower- 
 ing shrubs, and forces well for exhibition in early spring, 
 when the plants are properly prepared, the best kinds being 
 Charles X. and the Persian. The first requires a place in the 
 forcing-house very much shaded, in ord-er to bring out the 
 pure white colour which it assumes when forced, otherwise 
 they should be treated the same as the Azalea, except that 
 equal parts of loam and peat should be used in potting. The 
 points of merit are: (1.) Size and condition of the plant; 
 (2.) size of spike, and of flower; and (3.) richness, and purity 
 of colour. 
 
112 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 LILY OF THE VALLEY. 
 
 This chaste flower is a general favourite on account of its 
 modest beauty and sweet perfume. To obtain strong crowns 
 for forcing, as near as possible equal to those grown in Ger- 
 many, the plants should be cultivated on rich firm ground, in a 
 sheltered position not too much exposed, planting the crowns 
 singly two inches apart and in rows one foot asunder. It is 
 of the greatest importance that the leaves have plenty of room 
 to develop and the crowns to get well ripened. In selecting the 
 crowns for an exhibition specimen, the rows should be loosened 
 with a fork, and the strongest drawn out with roots attached. 
 They should then be thickly set in a shallow pan 14 inches 
 wide, using a compost of rich loam, leaf-mould, and sharp 
 sand. They should be watered and placed in a close frame 
 for two or three weeks previous to forcing. They like a strong 
 moist heat, and plenty of light to develop the leaves along 
 with the flowers. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and 
 health of the specimen ; (2.) number and length of the flower- 
 spikes ; and (3.) size, purity, and freshness of the flowers. 
 
 MIGNONETTE. 
 
 This plant is grown chiefly for the fragrance of its flowers, 
 and is esteemed by many as of more value than a gorgeous 
 display of brilliant inflorescence. To obtain large exhibition 
 specimens, seed from a vigorous and choice strain should be 
 sown about the beginning of March in three-inch pots, among 
 sandy soil and leaf-mould, and placed in a gentle heat. When 
 the seedlings are an inch high, all but one should be pulled out, 
 leaving the best, which should be staked and shifted into 
 a larger pot as it increases in size, using as compost three 
 parts sandy loam and one part rotted manure, with a dash of 
 lime and soot, which sweetens the soil and improves the 
 colour of the leaves. The plants may be trained as pyramids 
 by pinching and staking, or in the umbrella form, which is the 
 most artistic, and is performed as follows : — The plants should 
 be placed in the greenhouse and grown with a single stem to 
 the height of two feet, preserving the leaves, but removing 
 
MISCELLAXEOrS EXHIBITION PLAXTS. 113 
 
 all side-shoots as tliej appear, except three at the top, which 
 form the foundation of the specimen. A stout stake should 
 be placed beside the stem, and two strong wires, each 2J, feet 
 long, stretched at right angles across the top, with the ends 
 slightly bent downwards, to which is attached a circular \Tire, 
 which forms the outline. Thin wires should then be tied over 
 the cross ones, to form a trelhs. The shoots should be stopped, 
 tied down, and all flowers removed until within a month of 
 the time the plants are wanted for exhibition. The points of 
 merit are : (1.) Size and health of the specimen; (2.) length 
 and number of the spikes; (3.) clear colour, and sweet perfume 
 of flowers. 
 
 XARCISSUS. 
 These popular spring-flowering bulbous plants are divided 
 into two sections, the Garden and the Polyanthus Narcissus. 
 The former is distinguished by having one, two, or three 
 flowers on the spike, while the latter has many, but gene- 
 allj' of a small size. A few of the best Garden varieties are 
 Empress, Emperor. Horsfieldii, Maximus, Princeps, and Sir 
 T\ atkin. Some of the best Polyanthus Narcissus are Bazel- 
 man Major, Grand Monarch, Her Majesty, Milton, Newton, 
 and Queen of the Netherlands. Their cultivation is some- 
 what similar to that recommended for the Hyacinth. The 
 bulbs for exhibition plants should be carefully selected, by 
 choosing all of the same size, firmness, and appearance, because 
 it is of the greatest importance to have all the flowers in a 
 pot fully developed at one time. From three to six bulbs 
 should be put into a pot according to its size, among light 
 turfy loam, sand, and leaf -mould. The pots should be covered 
 with ashes like the Hyacinth, till they are partially filled 
 with roots, when they are in a proper state for forcing. The 
 plants are much benefited by weak liquid manure when they 
 are fairly started. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and 
 texture of the petals; (2.) prominence of the trumpet, the 
 edges of which should be slightly reflexed; (3.) the colour 
 clear and rich. If the perianth and trumpet be of different 
 colours, they should be distinct. In Polyanthus Narcissus, all 
 other points being equal, the number of flowers on the stem is 
 the chief point to decide their merits. 
 
114 -MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITIOX PLANTS. 
 
 PELAKGONIUM. 
 
 When well grown, these form some of the showiest of spring 
 and early summer exhibition specimens. The varieties are 
 extremely numerous, but the following dozen includes some of 
 the best show, fancy, and regal sections : — Achievement, Beauty 
 of Oxton, Brilliant, Captain Raikes, Dr. Mastei-s, Exquisite, 
 Mis. Harrison, Mrs. Mathers, Penelope, Queen Victoria, 
 Triumph, and Volonte Nationale alba. They grow well in 
 three pax'ts of fibry loam to one of leaf-mould, with a sprink- 
 ling of decayed manure, bone-meal, wood-ashes, and sand, 
 using a little coarse silver sand for the weak-growing varieties. 
 An airy place near the glass in the greenhouse is the best for 
 them, and the growth should be tied out and pinched, so as to 
 furnish the plant all over with shoots of equal length and 
 strength. They should be regularly fed with various kinds 
 of liquid manure previoiis to flowering, and fumigated often 
 to keep down greenfl}'. After flowering, the plants should 
 be placed in the open air, and kept moderately dry, to ripen 
 them. They should then be cut close down, watered, and 
 placed in a close frame, to start them about half an inch, 
 when they should be re-potted, and air given freely to promote 
 sturdy growth, to flower the following spring. The points of 
 merit are : (1.) Size, form, and condition of the plant ; (2.) size, 
 quality, and quantity of the flowers. 
 
 PETUNIA. 
 
 This is a very showy plant when well cultivated, and is 
 admirably suited, from its character and habit of growth, 
 for growing into a shapely exhibition specimen. Some of 
 the best double and single varieties are Arlequin, Derviche, 
 Louis Ratisbonne, Marc Alban, Panama, and Phoebe. To 
 obtain fine plants with large flowers, they must be young, as 
 old plants very soon lose their freshness and size of flower. 
 They grow very rapidlj', and cuttings early rooted may be 
 grown into good plants the same season, but summer cuttings 
 grown into stubby plants before winter make the best plants 
 for autumn shows. After the cuttings are well rooted, they 
 should be potted in light rich soil with leaf-mould and sharp 
 
JIISrELLANEOUS EXHIBITIO^' PLANTS. 115 
 
 sand. They should be set near the glass, and kept moving 
 duiing winter. In early spring the plants should be re- 
 potted, and afterwards shifted on as they require it, using 
 richer soil, and feeding the roots as the soil becomes eshausted. 
 The shoots should be pinched until suificient are obtained to 
 make a full specimen. Instead of staking, they should be 
 trained over wires fixed outside the pot, in the same manner 
 as the Pelargonium. Near the glass, in a cold frame, is the 
 best place to grow them in summer, and if they are regularly 
 pinched and watered with liquid manure twice a week, excel- 
 lent specimens should be the result. The shoots should be 
 tied in, and all flowers pinched off till within three weeks of 
 the time the plants are wanted in flower. The points of 
 merit are: (1.) Size, form, and health of the plant; (2.) size 
 and number of flowers; and (3.) quality, and colour; the 
 petals being thick and of good texture, and the colours bright 
 or pure. 
 
 POLYANTHUS. 
 
 A pretty and interesting class of florists' flowers, originating 
 probably from a cross between the Cowslip and the Primrose. 
 To grow them well in pots for exhibition, thej' require the 
 protection of a frame, and to be treated otherwise much in 
 the same way as the Auricula. They should be potted in 
 ^\.ugust, shaking the soil carefully away from the roots, and 
 cutting off all signs of rot or decay, to which they are often 
 liable. Any that do not need re-potting should be top-dressed 
 in February with good rich loam, leaf-mould, and dry well- 
 rotted manure. When newly potted, keep the frame close for 
 a few days until the roots run through the soil and the plants 
 begin to grow, when the sashes may be gradually removed 
 and the plants be fully exposed to the light and air. The 
 frame should be constructed to allow a free current of air to 
 play over the plants even when the sashes are on, except 
 during severe frost. "Water should be carefully given at all 
 times, but particularly in winter, sufiicient being given to 
 saturate the soil, and no more, until it is really required, 
 taking care that the plants are not allowed to flag, and that 
 
116 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 no water falls into the hearts of them to induce disease. 
 The plants may be divided when shifted in August to increase 
 the stock, but excellent varieties are easily raised from seed, 
 which are often as fine in quality as named ones, and are much 
 less liable to go off suddenly with rot, so that they are preferable. 
 The properties of a show Polyanthus resemble very much 
 those of the Auricula, with the difference in the colour and 
 markings. The tube should be short and well filled with 
 anthers ; the eye should be round, of a bright clear yellow, 
 and distinct from the ground, which should be shaded light 
 to dark crimson with a stripe in the centre of each limb from 
 the edge to the eye, where it should end in a fine point. The 
 edging should be gold-lace, clear and distinct, and of the same 
 colour as the eye and strips. The pips should be large, flat, 
 and round. 
 
 PRIMULA. 
 
 The Chinese Primrose, P. sinensis, and P. obconica are two 
 of the most useful of spring flowering plants. The shades of 
 colour and size of flowers in the varieties now introduced are 
 exceedingly prettj', and when exhibited en masse have a charm- 
 ing effect. For flowering in spring, the seed should be sown 
 in the previous June in pans of leaf-mould and sand, covering 
 with the latter, and plunging in a temperature of 55° to 60°. 
 When the seedlings appear, set the pans near the glass and 
 shade from strong sun, and when large enough, prick them off 
 into small pots, using the same compost. When the plants 
 are a fair size and the pots full of roots, they should be finally 
 shifted into six-inch pots for flowering, using as compost one 
 half sandy loam, the remainder leaf-mould, dry sheep or cow 
 manure, and sharp sand, well mixed and used in a fine state. 
 Tie the plants to short stakes to keep them steady, and after 
 they start to grow a cool frame suits them best till September, 
 when they require to be placed in a greenhouse. Keep the 
 plants moderately dry and the flowers pinched out during 
 winter. In early spring they should be encouraged to grow 
 vigorously with weak liquid manure, increasing its strength 
 as the time for flowering approaches. The flowers should be 
 
MISCELLAXEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 117 
 
 allowed to expand about a month before the show, and no 
 effort spared to have the plants in full bloom by the end of 
 that time. Primula obconica is a continuous bloomer, and 
 is much easier had in perfection under similar treatment than its 
 companion. The points of merit are : (1. ) The size and condition 
 of the plant ; (2.) size and symmetry of the heads of bloom ; 
 and (3.) the flowers fully expanded, and the petals of good 
 colour, form, and substance. 
 
 RHODODENDRON. 
 
 This is an extensive genus of useful showy flowering shrubs, 
 which, according to their dififerent characteristics, form dis- 
 tinct groups. There are many beautiful shades of colour among 
 their flowers, and most of them can be freely forced. The 
 following are among the best hardy kinds suitable for exhi- 
 bition specimens : — Austin Layard, Catawbiense, and its varie- 
 ties, Frederick Waterer, Gloire de Gandavensis, Lord John 
 Russell, Maculatum, Nobleanum, Prsecox and its varieties, 
 Robert Marnock, Sir William Armstrong, William Austin, and 
 William Ewart Gladstone. Hardy Rhododendrons may be 
 cultivated in pots specially for forcing, or they may be planted 
 on a border made up of sandy peat, leaf -mould, and well-rotted 
 manure. They are more easily kept in a good healthy condition 
 in this manner than when confined in pots. They can be lifted 
 for forcing with good balls, and potted without receiving a 
 check in the operation. They should be potted in the same 
 soil as that in which they are grown, and forced in the same 
 manner as recommended for Azalea. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size and health of the plant ; (2.) freshness and quantity 
 of flower; and (.3.) coloiu-, size, and substance of petals. 
 
 KICHARDIA. 
 
 The popular Lily of the Nile is a valuable decorative plant, 
 and also makes a grand specimen for exhibition. To produce 
 a large specimen quickly, a number of roots should be put 
 together in a twelve-inch pot among rough sandy loam, peat, 
 and pieces of charcoal. The plants should be placed in the 
 greenhouse, supplied with plenty of water, and well fed with 
 
118 MLSCELLAXEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 liquid manure. They bear forcing well, and can be had in 
 full flower at any date in spring and early summer. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) Size and health of the specimen; 
 (2.) size, number, and purity of the flowers. 
 
 KOSE. 
 The Rose, the Queen of Flowers, is always appreciated, but 
 more especially after the dull winter months, and its culture 
 in pots for exhibition specimens should be more practised than 
 it is. All the diflFerent sections may be forced with fair 
 success ; but the Teas, with all their beauty and fragrance, 
 are most highly valued, and most amenable to the influence 
 of artificial heat. Some of the best tea-roses are Beaute de 
 la Europe, Catherine Mermet, Duchess of Edinburgh, Etoile 
 de Lyon, Madame Bravy, Madame Jules Margottin, Madame 
 Sertot, Marie Guillot, Marie Van Houtte, Perle des Jardins, 
 Reine Marie Henriette, and Souvenir d'un Ami. And of 
 Hybrid Perpetual Roses : Abel Carriere, A. K. Williams, 
 Alfred Colomb, Baroness Rothschild, Camille Bernardin, 
 Charles Lefebvre, Dean of Windsor, Duke of Teck, Grandeur 
 Lj'onnaise, Marie Baumann, Pride of Waltham, and Souvenir 
 de Madame Berthier. To produce large specimens for exhibi- 
 tion, a preliminary course of culture extending over several 
 years is necessary, which, in many cases, is too long to wait, 
 and therefore large healthy plants should be lifted in spring, 
 prvmed, and potted in twelve-inch pots among rich marly 
 loam, sand, and rotted manure. They should be grown in 
 a cool house, and be carefully watered and attended to other- 
 wise, thinning the growth if crowded, and keeping the shoots 
 free from insects and mildew. The weak-growing varieties 
 should be on the brier or Manetti stock, while the strong- 
 growers do well on their own roots. Previous to starting, 
 tea-roses should be pruned in moderately, and the pots top- 
 dressed with marly loam, well-rotted manure, and bone-meal. 
 A night temperature of 50° is sufficient to start with, but 
 should be increased to 60°, with a corresponding rise in day 
 temperature, as the plants advance in growth. Plenty of air 
 should be given in favourable weather, and weak liquid manure 
 
MISCELLAXEOCS EXHIBITIOX PLANTS. 119 
 
 supplied until the buds begin to open. The plants should be 
 neatly staked out in bush foi'm, keeping the stakes well hidden, 
 the foliage free, and the flowers standing boldly out. Hybrid 
 Perpetual Roses require the same treatment as the Tea?, 
 except that they should be prvmed closer, and the shoots tied 
 out and kept in position without stakes. The points of merit 
 are : (1.) Size and health of the plant ; (2.) number and quality 
 of the fi.owers ; and (3.) richness and purity of colour and 
 fragrance of blooms. 
 
 SPIR.4iA. 
 This is a hardy and extremely useful tribe of plants for 
 decorative purposes, of which S. japonica and S. palmata make 
 beautiful specimens for exhibition, the feathery flowers of the 
 first being pure white, and of the second crimson. They are 
 easily forced, especially the former, and can be had in flower 
 for several months. Strong well-prepared specimens may be 
 lifted from the open ground and potted in rich loam, leaf- 
 mould, and sand, and placed in a fox'cing-pit. When the 
 spikes appear, the plants should be removed to a greenhouse 
 and supplied with weak liquid manure. When done flowering, 
 the plants may be broken up, and should be planted in a rich 
 open border, where they should remain for two years to pre- 
 pare them for being again lifted and forced for exhibition. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size and condition of the plant ; 
 (2.) size, number, and freshness of the flower-spikes. 
 
 TULIP. 
 These bulbous plants are divided into several sections, viz.. 
 Early, Late, Double, and Single Tulips. The following are 
 some of the best for pot culture and exhibition : — Double 
 Flowered : Blanch Hative, Clothilde, Kaiser Wilhelm, Premier 
 Gladstone, Rosa Bonheur, Violet Superior. Single Flowers : 
 Catafalque, Cerise Blanche, Comte de Xassau, Grand Monarch, 
 La Superb, and Marie Theresa. They succeed well under the 
 same treatment as the H3'acinth, and should be freely fed 
 with liquid manure when the pots are filled with roots, to 
 bring the flowers to the highest state of perfection ; but when 
 
120 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 the flowers begin to open, clear water only should be given. 
 They should be neatly staked and slightly shaded, to preser\'e 
 the colour and freshness of the blooms. The points of merit 
 are: (1.) Size, equality, and form of the flowers; (2.) arrange- 
 ment and brightness of the colours, which should not run into 
 each other, the petals being similarly marked, or if of one colour, 
 it should be pure and constant ; and (3.) double flowers should 
 be large and full, the petals regular, and of good size and 
 substance. 
 
 GROUPS OF PLANTS. 
 These form an important feature in a flower-show, and if 
 the plants have been selected with discrimination and are 
 tastefully arranged, they never fail to command the attention 
 and favourable comment of the public. In considering the 
 selection of the best plants and their arrangement to the best 
 effect in a group on a stand or table 20 feet long by 7 feet 
 wide, a commencement should be made with three leading 
 plants of graceful form, standing well over the main body of 
 the group, and arranged along the centre, say a well-coloured 
 Oroton of elegant habit in the middle, and about five feet off, 
 towards each end, a graceful specimen of Gocos Weddelliana 
 or other palm ; or a palm, say Phmnix rupicola, may be the 
 middle plant, suppoi-ted by two Crotons or two fine specimens 
 of Dracaenas towards the ends. A groundwork should next 
 be formed of dwarf ferns — Adiantum cuneatum in small pots 
 is among the best — arranged to cover the stand and effectually 
 conceal the pots of the other plants. The prominent plants 
 should then be placed in position with all the judgment and 
 taste possible, regulating their height above the groundwork in 
 such a manner as to display the specimens to the best advantage. 
 A choice selection of Alocasias, Anthuriums, Crotons, Dra- 
 caenas, Marantas, Palms, Pitcher Plants, and such like, with 
 ornamental and highly coloured foliage, should be freely inter- 
 spersed with the choicest specimens in flower of Amaryllis, 
 Azaleas, Eucharis, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Liliums, Orchids, 
 and the like. After the main features have been arranged in 
 a light and elegant manner, the edge of the table should be 
 treated in the same way, itsing both flowering and foliage 
 
MISCELLAXEOrS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 121 
 
 plants of a dwarfer habit, and finishing off with nice plants 
 of i'VdMS repent, Fittonia, variegated Panicum, and Selagi- 
 nellas, interspersed with drooping Fuchsias, Lobelias, Tliun- 
 henjia dlata, and the like, all set at regular distances, and 
 drooping tastefully over the edge. The table should be well 
 balanced withovit being too formal. The prominent plants 
 should be in perfect condition, and so thinly set that the eye 
 can clearly trace their outlines. Crowding should be strictly 
 avoided, as a free open airy arrangement is in better taste, and 
 most highly appreciated. The chief conditions to be taken into 
 consideration are the cultural merits and high qualitv of the 
 specimens, and the harmonious combination of the whole group. 
 The judging of tables for " effective arrangement " is not 
 easily- described in a satisfactory manner, because it is chiefly 
 a matter of taste, which varies with the individual. Some 
 appreciate bold contrasts, others prefer mellow tones ; but 
 what is graceful and handsome is approved by all. A minia- 
 ture of a tropical forest with the feathery palm and slender 
 grasses shooting out from an undulating surface of moss and 
 fern, is a good basis to work upon, with clumps of bright- 
 coloured foliage and flowering plants tastefully scattered about, 
 and orchids peeping from among the branches or suspended 
 in as natural a way as possible on the taller plants, making 
 a very pleasing and attractive scene, and, when done with 
 skill and good taste, goes a long way to seci^re high honours. 
 Whatever idea or design is employed for such a display of 
 taste, the plants used should always be appropriate, and 
 perfect in leaf and flower, each occupying its proper space, 
 without the foi'mality of one exactly the same being placed 
 in a corresponding position. The arrangement should be 
 rounded off and subdued in such a manner that the eye 
 may not be particularly attracted to anj' one part, but that 
 it mav wander with delight and satisfaction over the whole. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 In concluding our remarks on exhibition plants, a few useful 
 hints may be given on the cleaning, training, packing, and 
 other points, of which the beginner often feels the need of 
 
122 jnsr'ELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS, 
 
 information upon. The exhibitor must always remember that 
 flowering plants are in their very best condition for compe- 
 tition when the first flush of flowers is fully expanded, and 
 every effort should be made to secure that desirable point. 
 They can be retarded by keeping them cool and shaded, as 
 much as can be safely done without injury to the flowers ; or 
 when the)' are late, they may be forwarded by a judicious 
 amount of extra heat. 
 
 Geraniums, Heaths, and all kinds of plants, and especially 
 climbers, that require to be trained into shape, should be 
 manipulated in sufiicieut time before the show to allow the 
 leaves and points of the shoots to assume a natural position. 
 Preparatory to exhibition, all foliage that will bear it should 
 be carefullj' sponged over with a weak solution of soft soap 
 and tepid water, to remove every speck of dirt ; at the same 
 time cutting out all discoloured and decaying leaves. Staking 
 and tying should be done as neatly as possible, and no more 
 of either emploj'ed than is actually necessarj'. 
 
 Foliage plants with single stems, svich as Dracsenas, Palms, 
 and Cycads, and also Tree-Ferns, should have all their leaves 
 laid evenly up to the centre, covered with tissue-paper, and 
 carefully tied to a strong stake, with wads of cotton-wool 
 inserted to prevent rubbing, to prepare them for safe transit 
 to the exhibition. Tender flowering platits, such as Orchids, 
 and stove plants generally, should have the flower-stem covered 
 with cotton-wool and tissue-paper, and the separate flowers 
 properly packed in the same material, finishing off by envelop- 
 ing the whole truss in paper neatly tied with soft matting. 
 Ferns should have the outside fronds laid up to the centre 
 ones, and a breadth of soft cloth run round the plants, bring- 
 ing it over the top, forming a protection to the tender fronds. 
 When packing to ti'avel by road or rail, soft meadow-hay is 
 the best material to put round and below the pots, being 
 careful to economise space by packing the smaller amongst 
 the larger plants, placing them so that the leaves will not rub 
 against anything. 
 
 Some exhibitors think their object is accomplished when 
 the prize is won, and do not bestow much care in the removal 
 
MIsCELLAXEOI'f; EXIIIBTTION' PLAXTS. 12o 
 
 of the plants from the exhibition. Tins careless method must 
 be emphatically condemned, because any defect in packing 
 and conveyance tells on the plants and on future success, and 
 as much care and trouble should be bestowed on the removal 
 of plants from an exhibition as will ensure their safe return 
 to their home. 
 
 ^Yhe^e there is proper accommodation for growing exhibi- 
 tion plants, every specimen should have room to fully develop. 
 It is a good practice to group the various kinds according to 
 the treatment that suits them best. Crotons should he grown 
 where they can get most light, with provision for slight shad- 
 ing during extreme heat. Ferns, again, should be kej^t in 
 the shade and never syringed overhead, but moisture should 
 be kept constantly amongst them liy evaporation from damp- 
 ing the stages and paths. Filmy ferns, however, should be 
 regularly " dewed " overhead with the syringe. All plants 
 should be examined at least once every day to see if water 
 is required at the roots. This operation is best performed in 
 the afternoon in summer, and in the morning in winter. 
 Careful attention should be paid to giving proper ventilation 
 at all seasons. The admission of air by the bottom ventilators 
 alone to all the hottest houses prevents the too rapid escape 
 of moisture, which would leave the atmosphere parched and 
 dry and quite unsuitable for growing many exotic plants. 
 The ventilators should be large enough to admit the necessary 
 amount of air, combined with shading, to keep the temperature 
 within the prescribed limits. During the time of cold winds 
 in spring, ventilation should be confined to the sunny side of 
 the house, closing early in the afternoon to economise heat, 
 and at the same time thoroughly damping paths and stages. 
 
 It is a good plan to syringe such plants as Crotons with a 
 solution of two ounces of soft soap to the gallon of water, 
 applying it as hot as it can be used with comfort. This 
 practice ser^-es to keep insect pests in check ; but when plants 
 are badly infested, a wine-glassful of paraifin should be added 
 to each gallon while the liquid is boiling, and allow it to 
 cool down to a safe temperature before proceeding to use it. 
 Another method is to add the paraffin to the soap and water. 
 
124 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 
 
 and then syringing alternately into the pail and on to the 
 plant requiring to be cleaned. The higher the temperature 
 at which the soap, water, and pai-affin are mixed the better 
 they amalgamate ; hence they should be mixed at a tempera- 
 ture as near as possible to the boiling-point. 
 
 A solution of one part of soft soap to eight parts of water 
 '•takes" paraffin freely at or near the boiling-point, and 
 forms the basis of the best insecticide. When properly used, 
 paraffin is the best material for cleaning plants from all dirt 
 and insect pests at an infinitesimal cost. It should, however, 
 be always used with caution, aud never applied recklessly or 
 indiscriminately to all plants alike. It should not be used on 
 delicate ferns or on tender young growths, as it is liable to 
 injure them even with the most careful manipulation j but on 
 such smooth-leaved and robust plants as Crotons, Dracsenas, 
 Gardenias, Palms, Stephanotis, and such like, which are so 
 liable to the attacks of mealy-bug and scale, it may be applied 
 with perfect freedom and with the best results. Repeated 
 applications, at a strength of one gill of paraffin in the gallon 
 of liquid, will eradicate the most inveterate of plant insect 
 pests. In applying it to Azaleas and all downy-leaved plants, 
 a very weak solution must be used, about a quarter of a 
 gill of paraffin to the gallon, repeating the application till the 
 plants are clean. 
 
 Most kinds of jjlants are best as well as more easily moved 
 to and from an exhibition, when firmly potted in pots of a 
 comparatively small size. A proper application of artificial 
 and liquid manures will gi'ow them to perfection in such pots, 
 in which, as a rule, plants flower more profusely, and the 
 foliage assumes a richer and deeper colour and more beautiful 
 tints. 
 
 Soil, and all the materials for potting, should always be got 
 ready some time before they are required for use, and kept 
 stored in separate bunks in the potting-house, so that they 
 maj' be at hand when wanted, and in the best mellow and 
 warm condition. 
 
DIVISION II. 
 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 This is an important part of all horticultural exhibitions, and 
 forms a centre of great attraction to visitors generally, while 
 the ilorists' flowers are a source of unmeasured enthusiasm 
 on the part of the amateur, who enters with the keenest zest 
 into competition with his rivals in this interesting section. 
 Immense improvements have been developed in recent times 
 among the beautiful subjects comprised in this division, parti- 
 cularly in some of the florists' flowers classes, in which there 
 has been a marked advance in- the size and shape of the flowers, 
 substance of petal, richness and variety of colour, and all other 
 points that go to constitute a perfect bloom. It is not neces- 
 sary, however, to dwell at length on the advances made by 
 the various sections of cut flowers, and only a selection of the 
 best varieties of each genus is given under their respective 
 popular titles in the following descriptions. 
 
 AXXUALS. 
 Collections of the flowers of annuals have become very 
 popular at autumn flower-shows, and when they are tastefully 
 set up in proper-sized bunches they make an effective dis- 
 play. They are divided into two classes, half-hardy and hardy 
 annuals. Some of the most showy of both classes, however, 
 are useless for exhibition, as they fade within a short time 
 after they are gathered. 
 
 HALF-HAEDY AXXUALS. 
 These include the following beautiful species and varie- 
 ties suitable for exhibition : — Alonsoii Warscewicxii, Calliopsis 
 
126 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 cldnensls, Gaillarclia pida Lorenziaiia, Tagetes erect a; German 
 Asters, varieties; Marigold, French and African; Petunia, 
 varieties ; Phlox Drummondi, varieties ; Rhodanthe, varieties ; 
 Salpiglossis, varieties ; Matthiola (stocks), varieties ; Tropseo- 
 lum, varieties; and Zinnia, varieties. The seed should be 
 sown in February or March in pans of light sandy soil and 
 leaf-mould, and placed in a temperature of 5-5° to 60°. The 
 seedlings should be pricked out as soon as they can be handled, 
 and afterwards be carefully hardened off for planting out in 
 May and June. 
 
 HARDY ANNUALS. 
 
 Many species of these are so rich in varieties of merit that 
 it is scarcely possible to name a selection of them that would 
 prove to be the finest in every season. The following dozen 
 species, however, with their varieties, foi'm a collection to 
 be depended upon : — Calendula officinalis, Calliopsis tinctoria, 
 Chrysanthemum tricolor, Clarkia pulchella, Eschsclioltzia cali- 
 fwnica, Godetia elegans, Iheris umbellatus, Lathyrus odoratus, 
 Lupinusnanus, and other species ; Nigella damascena ; Papaver, 
 several species and varieties. 
 
 The culture of hardy annuals under ordinary circumstances 
 is a simple matter, as they grow freely in any rich soil of an 
 open texture. They may be sown any time from the middle 
 of February till the end of May, according to the state of the 
 weather and the date at which it is desired to have them 
 in perfection for exhibition. From twelve to fourteen weeks 
 should be allowed in ordinary seasons between the time of 
 sowing and the date of the show. As a rule, it is best to 
 make two or three separate sowings, at intervals of eight 
 days, so as to have them in perfection at a given date. Small 
 seeds (Mignonette) should be covered to a depth of about 
 twice their own diameter, larger seeds (Candytuft) three or 
 four times their diameter, and for large seeds (Sweet Peas) 
 from one to two inches is the proper depth. As soon as 
 the young plants are large enough to handle, they must be 
 well thinned out, to admit light and air among them, which 
 promotes strong sturdy growth and well-developed flowers. 
 
CUT FLOWEKS. 127 
 
 If the flowers are likely to come too early, a slight shading 
 will I'etard them, but it must be cautiously done, so as not to 
 draw the growth or spoil the colour of the flowers. In dry 
 weather copious waterings are required to keep the plants 
 fresh and vigorous, and a dose of weak liquid manure occa- 
 sionally is beneficial. For competition, the flowers should be 
 cut early in the morning, and with as long stalks as possible, 
 so that they may last the longer, and be set up effectivel}-. 
 The bunches should be made up as light and free as possible, 
 to show every spike and flower clearly. In most cases a single 
 colour (one variety) will be found most effective ; while in 
 others several colours (varieties of one species), when properly 
 combined, will produce the most charming effect. The points 
 of merit in annuals are : (1.) Freshness and tasteful arrange- 
 ment of the bunches; (2.) size and texture of the blooms; 
 and (3.) brilliancy and purity of the colours. 
 
 AXTIRKHIXUil. 
 
 This forms a prominent object at many local flower-shows 
 in the autumn months, and is a special favourite in the cottage- 
 gaixlen. Among the best are Anson Shiel, Agnes, Cleopatra, 
 Favourite, Henry Wood, and The Bard. To obtain exhibition 
 specimens the plants should be raised from cuttings annuallj'. 
 Select stubby, short-jointed shoots early in the autumn, and 
 insert them in sand and leaf-mould, placing them in a cold 
 frame near the glass, and in such a position as not to require 
 shading. By April they will be well rooted, and should then 
 be planted out two feet apart on ground that has been well 
 pulverised, manured, and specially prepared for them. Keep 
 clean from weeds, and reduce the number of shoots if too 
 many are produced. Stake them when necessary. Mulch and 
 water in hot dry weather. The points of merit are : (1.) Num- 
 ber of flowers and size of spike; (2.) size and texture of the 
 tube, the lip of which should be well extended to show the 
 throat; and (3.) the colour clear, the markings well defined, 
 and the stripes distinct, well contrasted, and regular. The 
 selfs should be pure, and of a decided colour. 
 
128 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 ASTEE. 
 
 Two classes are generally provided for exhibiting the China 
 (or German) Asters: (1.) Chrysanthemum -flowered, and (2.) 
 Quilled. The former includes all those with flat florets, and the 
 latter the varieties with quilled florets. Seed of the best 
 strains should be sown in mild heat during April, in sandy 
 soil and leaf-mould, and the seedlings pricked into boxes four 
 inches apart, shaded for a time, and afterwards removed to a 
 position near the glass in a cold frame. It is of importance 
 that the plants receive no check from cold, crowding, or want 
 of water, but that they should be strong, dwarf, and healthy 
 for planting out in the end of May, or beginning of June. 
 The ground on which they are to grow should be rich, and a 
 little lime and soot forked into the svirface previous to planting. 
 Plant in rows two feet apart, and irom one to two feet, according 
 to the varieties, betAveen the plants. They should be watered 
 in dry weather and well fed, to produce large, fine flowers. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size, form, and freshness of 
 flowers; (2.) smoothness of outline and regularity of the 
 petals ; and (3.) colour, which should be pure or bright. The 
 Quilled should be round and full, and the florets equal, regu- 
 lar, and free from coarseness. 
 
 CAMELLIA. 
 
 The Camellia as a cut bloom, although slightly lacking in 
 gracefulness, has a chaste beauty and symmetry of form pecu- 
 liarly its own. Some of the best varieties for exhibition are 
 Adriana, Alba plena, Carlotta PapiidofE, Comtesse, Lavinia 
 Maggi, Cup of Beauty, Fimbriata, Lady Hume's Blush, 
 Mathotiana, Princess Marie, Reine des Beautes, Targioni, 
 and Thomas Moore. For the cultivation of the Camellia see 
 " Camellia " in the First Division. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size and form of blooms; (2.) arrangement and texture 
 of the petals; and (3.) colour: if white, it should be pure; 
 if coloured) dense and bright ; if streaked, the colours should 
 be distinct. 
 
GUT FLOWERS. 129 
 
 CAEXATIOX. 
 
 The flowers of the Carnation are much admired for their 
 beauty, perfume, and general usefulness in decorative work, 
 and when well grown make a beautiful stand for exhibition. 
 A few of the best for competition are Admiral Curzon, Flo- 
 rence Nightingale, Germania, Henry Cannell, James Douglas, 
 Matador, Mr. Frederick William Bacon, Robert Halgrave, Rob 
 Ro}', Sarah Payne, Sybil, and William Skirving. For pot cul- 
 ture the plants should be potted in five-inch pots in October in 
 sandy loam and leaf-mould, placed in a cold frame, and kept 
 close and shaded till the new roots have started to grow. Air 
 should then be gradually given, until the light can be with- 
 drawn altogether, except during heavy rain and frost. During 
 February they should be shifted into ten-inch pots for bloom- 
 ing, giving plenty of drainage, and using the same soil, with 
 the addition of some old manure well rubbed down, replacing 
 them in the cold frame, where they should remain until May. 
 As the flower-stems shoot upwards they should be loosely tied 
 to stakes, and as soon as the buds can be detected the best 
 should be carefully preserved, and three only left on a plant. 
 Weak liquid manure, made from soot and sheep-droppings, 
 should now be given twice a week, which will cause the buds 
 to swell and give a dark healthy hue to the foliage. As the 
 flowers expand they should be slightly shaded, in order to pre- 
 serve them ; but this should not be overdone, else the colours 
 will not be so bright. Carnations are also successfully culti- 
 vated in beds, but so much depends on external circumstances 
 that this system cannot always be relied upon ; and to ensure 
 fine blooms, at least in northern parts, a number must be 
 grown in pots. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and form ; 
 (2.) distinctness in the markings and colour; and (3.) sub- 
 stance of the petals and regularity in their disposition. 
 
130 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 CHEYSANTHEJIUM. 
 
 This flower stands higher in public estimation at the pre- 
 sent time than probably any other in cultivation. The great 
 improvement in form and colour, especially in the Japanese 
 varieties, and the perfection to which cultivation has brought 
 them, have no doubt been the means of raising them to their 
 present popular eminence. Their culture engages the atten- 
 tion of a large number of horticulturists, but, even with all 
 the knowledge at their command, comparatively few approach 
 the ideal of perfection ; and in treating of this subject we 
 have endeavoured to point out the best known methods of 
 obtaining good plants and perfect blooms. A selection of the 
 best varieties for exhibition, as cut flowers, includes the fol- 
 ing:— 
 
 Incurved. — Alfred Salter, Barbara, Empress of India, Jeanne d'Arc, 
 Golden Empress, J. Lambert, Lord Aloester, Miss M. H 
 Haggis, Mrs. Heale, Princess of Wales, Queen of England 
 and Violet Tomlin. 
 
 Japanese. — Ayalanohe, Boule d'Or, Carew Underwood, Edwin Moly 
 neux, Etoile de Lyon, Jeanne Delaux, Madame C. Audiguier, 
 Mdlle. Laoroix, Meg Merrilees, Kalph Brooklebank, Sunflower, 
 Val d'Andorre, Viviand Morrel, and W. H. Lincoln. 
 
 Heflexed.^Aunie Salter, Alice Bird, Chevalier Domage, Culling 
 fordii. Dr. Sharpe, Golden Christine, King of Crimsons, Mrs, 
 Forsyth, Pink Christine, Peach Christine, and Purple King. 
 
 Anemones. — Acquisition, Fabian de Mediana, Fleur de Marie, Georges 
 Sand, Gluck, Lady Margaret, Mdme. Theresa Clos, Mdlle. 
 Cabrol, Miss Annie Lowe, Mrs. Pethers, Prince of Anemones, 
 and ScEur Dorothde Souilld. 
 
 The culture of the Chrysanthemum is given in the First 
 Division, and it is only necessary here to notice the special 
 treatment required for the production of extra-large speci- 
 men blooms for exhibition as cut flowers. To attain this 
 strong, firm, healthy plants should be potted singly in eight- 
 inch pots, giving the strong-growers one size larger, and 
 using the same compost as has been recommended for bush 
 
CUT FLO^VEES. 131 
 
 plants. About the end of May the plants can be set in the 
 open air, in rows at convenient distances apart, with strong 
 posts fixed at the ends and wires stretched between them, 
 to which the stakes supporting the plants should be firmly 
 secured. Watering must be carefully attended to daily, giving 
 it copiously where needed, and sprinkling the plants and 
 ground between them late in the afternoon of dry warm 
 days. 
 
 Taking the Buds. — Sometimes buds appear preinaturely, 
 when the top should be pinched off at a good leaf, from which 
 fresh growth will be made, producing buds that will come 
 in at the right time. Certain varieties require special treat- 
 ment for the timing of the buds, such as the Rundle family, 
 as representing the early varieties. These should be pinched 
 from the middle to the end of May, which throws the first 
 break into the end of June or beginning of July. The later 
 varieties should be pinched between the last week in May and 
 the middle of June, some allowance being made for the localitj' 
 where the plants are grown. Cutting hard down is recom- 
 mended at this time by some growers, but we see no advan- 
 tage from this process further than reducing the height of 
 the plants, which should not be considered by those growing 
 for exhibition blooms, as the best have been and are obtained 
 from plants which have been allowed to grow to their full 
 height or to the crown buds. Regular attention should be 
 given to tying the plants and rubbing out all side-shoots 
 except the three leading ones produced at the first break, 
 which takes place in June. The term " first break " is de- 
 rived from a particular stage of the plant's growth. If the 
 cutting has been rooted at the proper time and allowed to 
 grow naturally with a single stem, a flower-bud will appear 
 about the end of May or in June, the time varying with the 
 variety and locality where it is grown. Immediately under 
 this bud a number of small shoots will spring, three of which 
 should be allowed to grow and the others rubbed off. During 
 the month of August a bud will be formed on each of these 
 shoots, which is termed the "crown bud." Shoots will also 
 start below this bud, and they must be rubbed off as they 
 
132 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 appear. Should the crown bud, however, show too early, 
 it should be promptly pinched out, and one of these shoots 
 retained, and encouraged to grow as fast as possible. On 
 it the second crown or "terminal bud" will soon appear, and 
 must be "taken," or preserved, with every care, as it gives 
 the bloom for exhibition. All other flower-buds must be 
 ruthlessly rubbed off as soon as they appear, and so must all 
 young shoots that may start from the stem. A little prac- 
 tice enables the operator to take the buds deftly, without 
 injury to the chosen bud or to the stem on which it grows, 
 and the best time to do it is in the early morning, or in the 
 evening when the dew is on them. The crown bud is usually 
 found the best for exhibition, and should be chosen when well 
 timed. If the buds of late varieties are fit to be taken in the 
 second week of August, it is the best time for them. Tlie 
 mid-season varieties come in best if taken from the middle 
 to the end of August. The first fortnight in September is 
 the most suitable time to take the early varieties. The 
 flowers from the terminal bud are generally smaller and 
 neater than from the crown bud, and should be chosen for 
 certain varieties in both the Incurved and Japanese classes, 
 which varieties should be observed and noted in regular 
 practice. The largest flowers are obtained from plants with 
 a single stem, and the first crown bud on the top of it. 
 The plants should be gone over twice a week, to regulate 
 the growth and carefully remove all useless side-shoots and 
 suckers. 
 
 Mildew and Insects. — A constant watch requires to be kept 
 for the first sign of mildew appearing on the plants, and at once 
 dust the parts affected with flowers of sulphur. Aphides are 
 also an insidious pest, and should be promptly kept in check by 
 dusting the shoots on which they appear with tobacco powder. 
 In some seasons earwigs are a troublesome nuisance, and they 
 must be diligently watched and trapped whenever they appear ; 
 the hollow stalks of broad beans forming excellent traps when 
 cut into lengths of 6 to 8 inches and placed among the plants 
 and pots. They should be carefully examined daily, and the 
 earwigs lodging in them are easil}' shaken or blown out into a 
 
CrT FLOWERS. 133 
 
 pail of Iiot water. Before housing the plants, it is a good plan 
 to give them a thorough syringing with a mixture of two 
 pounds of flowers of sulphur and one pound of soft soap to 
 twenty gallons of water ; and after they are housed they ought 
 to receive a thorough fumigation, not too strong at one time, 
 but repeating it on several nights in succession, which will 
 clean them of aphides. When the leaf-mining grub is noticed 
 to be at work, by the pale grey or brown spots and streaks on 
 the leaves, these should be at once pressed between the finger 
 and thumb to kill the grubs, or if only a few leaves are 
 attacked, they should be picked off and burned. 
 
 Housing the Plants. — Some forethought is required here to 
 arrange the plants as far as possible to get them into flower at 
 the proper time. The end of September is the best time to 
 house the late varieties, leaving the early ones out for a week 
 or ten days longer, according to the weather. Those wanted 
 forward should be set in the warm end, and others too forward 
 in the cool end of the house. In order that the sudden change 
 from the open air to a close atmosphere may be felt as little as 
 possible, the house should be kept slightly moist at night, with 
 a free circulation of air about the plants until they get inured 
 to the changed conditions. "When the buds begin to open, a 
 drier atmosphere should be maintained, and fire-heat may 
 be used if necessary for this purpose. Feeding with liquid 
 manure should still be continued, but only of moderate 
 strength, remembering that high feeding and a close moist 
 atmosphere are the agents which cause much of the damping 
 of the blooms. A slight shade from strong sunshine should 
 be given, so as to preserve the colour of the flowers. Artificial 
 heat must always be cautiously employed in pushing forward 
 the blooms ; but Japanese varieties are improved by a little, 
 if it can be applied without risk of having them too forward. 
 Sudden changes of the atmosphere should be avoided, and no 
 liquid manure given after the blooms are about two-thirds 
 expanded. A bloom takes from three to four weeks to develop 
 itself fully after the opening of the bud, and the grower knows 
 whether to force or retard the plants to bring the flowers in at 
 the proper time. After the flowers are full blown, they keep 
 
134 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 fresh for two weeks in a cool house if it is kept moderately dry 
 and shaded. 
 
 Dressing the Blooms. — This is a necessary operation, and is 
 practised more or less by all successful exhibitors. It consists 
 in arranging, with suitable instruments, any florets that are 
 out of place, extracting an eye, and pulling out any rough or 
 damaged petals. This is best performed by the operator 
 fastening the flower securely in the cup in which it is to be 
 exhibited, and then deftly removing the eye and rough petals 
 with a sharp-pointed knife and a suitable pair of tweezers. 
 The florets should next be properly manipulated so as to look 
 as even, neat, and perfect as possible. The Japanese do not 
 require much dressing, but damaged florets and an ej'e when 
 it appears should be removed, after which the bloom should 
 be turned upside down and gently shaken, which is all it 
 requires. Anemone-flowered should have badly formed disc 
 florets taken out, and misplaced ray florets put into position. 
 Reflexed flowers should also receive the needful dressing by 
 removing imperfect and notched petals, and arranging the 
 flower smoothly and shapely. All boards, cups, tubes, and 
 boxes should bo ready when wanted to save hurry at the last 
 moment. 
 
 The chief points of merit are : (1.) Size ; (2.) symmetry ; 
 and (3.) colour. Smoothness of outline and regularity in the 
 disposition of the petals are imperative qualities in Incurved 
 and Reflexed blooms. In the Japanese varieties the blooms 
 should be large, full, and regular in outline, the length, 
 breadth, and artistic curl in the petals being also important 
 points in adjudicating on certain varieties. 
 
 DAHLIA. 
 
 This showy autumn-flowering plant has been long a special 
 favourite with the florist, who has brought the ilowers to a 
 wonderful state of symmetry and perfection. The Show and 
 Fancy Dahlias have been rather hard pressed for some years 
 in public esteem by their beautiful rivals, the Single, Cactus, 
 and Decorative varieties ; but popular taste is again leaning 
 
CUT FLOWEES. 135 
 
 towards the old favourites ; and although they are not so use- 
 ful for general purposes as the other sections, still they pro- 
 duce a splendid effect on an exhibition table, and command 
 the notice and admiration of all true lovers of beauty and 
 symmetry in flowers. The following selections of Fancy, Show, 
 and Single varieties, including all colours, are among the best 
 in their respective classes for the purpose of exhibition : — 
 
 Fancij Dahlias. — Annie Richard, Flora Wyatt, George Barnes, Henry 
 
 Glascock, James O'Brien, Lottie Eckford, Mrs. A. HoUs, Mrs. 
 
 Saunders, Polly Sandell, Prince Henry, Professor Fawcett, and 
 
 Romeo. * 
 
 Show Dahlias. — Alexander Cramond, Clara, Emperor, Goldfinder, 
 
 Henry Walton, Herbert Turner, James Huntley, J. N. Keynes, 
 
 Julia Wyatt, Mrs. Gladstone, Mrs. Langtry, and Mrs. W. Slack. 
 Single Dahlias. — Amos Perry, James Kelway, Miss Gladstone, 
 
 Miss Maxton, Mrs. Bowman, Mrs. Fergusson, Mrs. H. M. 
 
 Stewart, Terra-Cotta, T. S. Ware, Volunteer, White Paragon, 
 
 and William Potter. 
 
 The proper cultivation of the Dahlia is of the greatest im- 
 portance to the exhibitor, and requires a considerable amount 
 of attention, perseverance, and skill to ensure success. _ To 
 grow it for exhibition, a rather stiff loamy soil, richly manured, 
 is the best. The ground must be well trenched the previous 
 winter, at least two spits deep, at the same time giving it a 
 liberal quantity of thoroughly made manure. About the end 
 of May it should again be dug or forked over, breaking it well 
 in the operation. Then lay it out in rows running north and 
 south, with a distance of four to five feet between each, and 
 not more than four feet between the plants. Stakes should be 
 driven into the ground where the plants are to be put, to 
 which they must be tied as they grow to prevent them being 
 broken by the wind. In preparing the plants, the roots 
 should be placed in heat to start about the end of April, 
 giving them a tpmperature of 56°, and taking care not to 
 allow them to get dry, which tends to throw them into pre- 
 mature bloom. This method of selecting fine plump roots and 
 starting them with a single stem in preference to cuttings is 
 adopted by competitors with the utmost success. When the 
 
136 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 shoots have grown about six inches, gradually harden them 
 off, by admitting more aii' or by removing to a cooler place, 
 guarding against any sudden check to the plants, and by the 
 end of May they may be fully exposed to the open air. The 
 first week in June is soon enough to plant them out, when all 
 danger of frost is past. On no occasion should they suffer for 
 want of water, while liquid manure twice a week will be bene- 
 ficial. It shoiild be used weak at first, but gradually stronger 
 as the season advances. The result will be more satisfactory 
 if the liquid manure i.s varied thus : farmyard manure at one 
 watering, sheep-droppings at the next, guano or any other 
 artificial manure capable of being dissolved at another, and 
 so on. Three to five shoots is enough to leave on a plant to 
 obtain the largest and finest blooms. A stake should be put 
 to each shoot, and the laterals should be all pinched as they 
 appear. At this stage a good mulching of decomposed manure 
 will be of service to the health of the plants, especially if the 
 weather is dry. About the beginning of August buds will 
 appear in the points of the leading shoots, the best of which, 
 or those of good form with full centres, should be selected and 
 the others pinched off ; but if the first flowers are considered 
 too early, they should be taken off, and lateral shoots trained 
 up to take their place, which will produce flowers two weeks 
 later. When the blooms begin to expand, they require protec- 
 tion, which can be given by fixing a piece of cardboard, to a 
 stake, and placing it over the bloom. They should be cut 
 when dry, and properly arranged before leaving for the show. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size; (2.) form ; (3.) colour. The 
 flowers should be round, full in the centre, and not cupped. 
 The petals of both double and single varieties should be regu- 
 lar and slightly reflexed, of good substance, and rich and clear 
 in colour. 
 
 DELPHINIUSI. 
 
 The bold handsome spikes -of this hardy plant are held in 
 high esteem by many cultivators of florist's flowers. There 
 are both single and double varieties, with tints of colour from 
 light blue to dark purple. Their tall spikes and attractive 
 
CUT FLO WEES. 13? 
 
 flowers are very much admired when well shown. ■ The following 
 are a few of the best varieties : — Bella Donna, Breckii, Desde- 
 mona, Mi's. Gamp, Prince Albert Victor, and Voltaire. The 
 cultivation .of the Delphinium is similar to that for the Antir- 
 rhinum, except that it is propagated by division, which is best 
 performed in spring. Planted on a rich border, the plants 
 will get thoroughly established the same season, and with a 
 little attention during summer as to watering and mulching 
 during dry weather, good spikes will be produced the follow- 
 ing year. Plants may also be divided early in autumn, and 
 kept in pots in cold frames through the winter ; and if potted 
 and planted out in March, spikes of fair quality can be ob- 
 tained from them the same season. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size of spike; (2.) size and number of expanded flowers; 
 and (3.) quality of the flowers, which should be dense in colour, 
 of good substance, and the eye distinct. 
 
 GEKANIUM. 
 A very show}' stand for exhibition is made from a good 
 selection of Geranium flowers in trusses, and if properly set up 
 and the colours well arranged, they produce a dazzling effect. 
 The following are a dozen of the best, including varieties from 
 each section : — Brilliant, Buffalo Bill, Caliban, Duchess of 
 Portland, Preya, Gloire de Prance, Madame Thibaut, Opal, 
 Rev. Dr. Morris, Silver Queen, Shirley Hibberd, and Charles 
 Turner. The trusses should be exhibited in triplets, a thin 
 wire being twisted down the stem, bending it slightly out- 
 wards to prevent the blooms from crushing. The points of 
 merit are: (1.) Size and freshness of the trusses; (2.) size of 
 pips and breadth of petals; and (3.) colour and texture of the 
 flowers. 
 
 GLADIOLUS. 
 
 The Gladiolus never fails to be greatly admired at horti- 
 cultural exhibitions, even by those who have no special know- 
 ledge of florist's flowers. Indeed it may be said that a collection 
 of them, when well set up with most of the flowers expanded, 
 has nothing to equal it for a gorgeous display in the cut-flower 
 division. The following are some of the best exhibition varie- 
 
138 CUT FLO WEES. 
 
 ties ; — Albatross, Albion, Bernard de Jussieu, Imperatrice 
 Eugenie, Leviathan, Lord Howard, Mont Blanc, Mrs. Derry, 
 Mrs. Laxton, Sir Percy Herbert, Reine Blanche, and Urania. 
 The Gladiolus is not so difficult to grow as many other florist's 
 flowers, but success will not be attained without considerable 
 skill and trouble. The ground ought to be trenched in the 
 autumn, giving at the same time a dressing of well-made 
 manure. The bulbs are best planted late in March or early 
 in April. The beds should be formed of four rows about 
 15 inches apai-t, and one foot between the bulbs, set three 
 inches deep. The plants should be carefully staked as they 
 grow, and a good mulching of manure given in dry weather. 
 Plenty of water should be s\ipplied to the roots, and also liquid 
 manure as soon as the flower-buds begin to swell. As they 
 expand they must be shaded to procure first-rate spikes. The 
 most effective way to do this is to fix an oblong box with a 
 glass front to a stout stake, the box being of sufficient length 
 to contain the whole of the spike. As the lower blooms 
 expand the glass may be shaded with whitewash, always giving 
 the unexpanded blooms the full sun. In order to bring late 
 spikes forward for a show, they should be cut and placed in 
 bottles of warm water set in a hothouse. Those that are too 
 early may be cut, and kept in a cool shaded place to retard 
 them. When the flowers incline backwards, they should be 
 tied to the front until they are expanded, when they will remain 
 in that position. In arranging a stand, the spikes should be 
 set up with their tops slightly bent back and some of the 
 foliage put around them, which greatly improves their appear- 
 ance. The points of merit are : (L) Length of the spike; (2.) 
 size and number of expanded flowers; (3.) richness of the 
 colour and distinctness of the marking; and (4.) texture of 
 the petals, the edges of which should be slightly reflexed to 
 show the interior of the flower. 
 
 GEEENHOUSE FLOWEES. 
 A beautiful and interesting display is produced by a stand 
 of various kinds of greenhouse flowers, tastefully set up in 
 bunches, interspersed with a few sprays of graceful foliage. 
 
CUT FLOWERS. 139 
 
 The following are some of the best genera, excluding those 
 provided with a class for themselves, such as Camellia and 
 Rhododendron : — Ahutilon, Azalea, Bouvardia, Ghoisya, Clivia, 
 Lapageria, LisiantJius, Liliuni, Pliilesia, Plumbago, Statice, and 
 Vallota. The cultivation of these is given in the Plant Divi- 
 sion. In fixing the number of bunches required on a stand 
 in competition, distinct genera should be clearly specified in 
 the schedule, else confusion often arises from the introduction 
 of several species of the same genus, or, worse still, a number 
 of varieties of the same species. Three or more, according to 
 size, of the best-flowered shoots should be cut with long stalks, 
 and wired, if necessary, to keep them in position. They should 
 be lightly and tastefully arranged, using the foliage of each 
 kind where possible with the flowers. The points of merit 
 are: (1.) Arrangement; (2.) quality of the flowers; and (3.) 
 freshness of the flowers and foliage. 
 
 HAEDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 
 
 The popular taste has greatly revived in recent years for 
 this useful class of hardy flowering plants, and their cultiva- 
 tion is rapidly extending as their excellent merits become 
 better known. In the schedules of flower-shows they are 
 generally stipulated to be exhibited as " spikes," practically 
 excluding all other forms, and limiting the choice to flowers 
 produced on spikes. This condition ought always to be modi- 
 fied so as to admit all forms of inflorescence — spike, raceme, 
 umbel, corj'mb, fascicle, panicle, or cyme — by stipulating for so 
 many " Single Stems in Flower of Hardy Herbaceous Peren- 
 nial Plants." Many fine kinds, however, are more effective 
 when set up in " bunches,'' and in such cases a certain number 
 of stems in each bunch should not be exceeded, so that the 
 competition may be on equally fair conditions. 
 
 Herbaceous plants are of easy cultivation, and wUl grow 
 freely in any ordinary garden soil ; but in the case of exhi- 
 bition flowers, they well repay a little extra care and attention 
 to their particular wants. As a rule, to get the finest exhibition 
 specimens, the plants require to be divided every few years, 
 
140 CUT FLOWEES. 
 
 planting the healthiest roots, or pieces, in fresh soil enriched 
 with well-rotted manure. In dry weather attention must be 
 given to watering and mulching them when necessary. The 
 stems must be carefully staked, and the flowers protected from 
 wind and rain as soon as they begin to open, so that they may 
 be preserved in the best possible condition. In growing a 
 collection for exhibition there is a wide choice of beautiful 
 kinds, and the following eleven genera may be named as a 
 good selection : — Ane7no'ne japonica alba, Delphinium grandi- 
 floruin plenum, Didamnus frcacinella, Dm'onicum columnm, 
 Gaillardia aristata, G. grandiflora, Inula glandulosa, Orchis 
 foliosa, Phygelius capensis, Rudheclcia speeiosa, Spircea palmata, 
 and Verafrian nigrum,. 
 
 The points of merit in herbaceous spikes are ; (1.) The size, 
 vigour, and freshness of the inflorescence ; (2.) size and quality 
 of the flowers : and (3.) the richness, contrast, and purity of 
 the colours. 
 
 HOLLYHOCK. 
 
 This is of a stiffer and more robust character of spike than 
 the Gladiolus ; it also lacks its bright colours and graceful 
 appearance. It has many votaries, however ; and were it not 
 so subject to disease, it would be better represented at exhibi- 
 tions. The following are some of the finest varieties for com- 
 petition : — Alba Superba, Charles Chater, Czar, F. G. Dougal, 
 Her Majesty, Jane Wilson, Kerr's Scarlet, Mrs. Laing, Model, 
 Pink Perfection, Queen of Bufifs, and Queen of Yellows. 
 
 In the cultivation of the Hollyhock, the soil should be pre- 
 pared as advised for Dahlias. A position sheltered from the 
 wind should be chosen, but it must be fully exposed to the sun. 
 As the Hollyhock is nearly hardy, it may be planted out any 
 time in spring, while old plants may be left out all winter, with 
 a slight protection in severe weather. Plants intended for com- 
 petition should be struck from cuttings, or eyes, in the autumn 
 and potted on as they require it, They should be grown in 
 frames, protected only in severe frost, and planted out on the 
 first favoiirable opportunity in spring. A liberal supply of 
 liquid manure when they are growing is very beneficial. As 
 
CUT FLOWEKS. l-il 
 
 the flowers on the lower part of the spike expand, they require 
 shading, which is done by placing three stakes around the 
 spike and enclosing it with thin canvas. This gives a longer 
 spike of fully developed flowers. If wet weather sets in, the 
 spikes should be so protected as to prevent injury to the 
 flowers. 
 
 The points of merit of spikes are ; (1.) Length of spike of 
 expanded flowers ; (2.) size and regularity of flowers, which 
 should be close set but not overlap ; and (3.) the colours rich 
 and clear. In single blooms the points are : (1.) They should 
 be round, high in the centre, with the guard petals flat on the 
 stand; (2.) quality of petals; and (3.) colour, which should be 
 rich and clear. 
 
 ORCHID. 
 
 A stand of spikes or bunches of the finest Orchids, when 
 properly set up, excels all others in elegance and richness 
 of colour, and surpasses most kinds in striking appearance. 
 There ought to be no limit to the exhibitor staging either 
 a single spike or a bunch of spikes of the same variety, because 
 the exhibit is meant to be attractive, as well as to show the 
 results of cultural ability, and to satisfy the curiosity of the 
 orchidophihst. A single spike of Plialcenopsis ScMlleriana is 
 all that could be desired, while a single Cypripedium or Ly caste 
 on the top of a stem has very little appearance ; but if these 
 are wired and set up in a bunch, with a backing of green 
 leaves, the efEect is vastly more attractive, and therefore 
 " bunches " should be the rule. The following are twelve of 
 the best genera for this purpose : — Aerides, Cattleya, Ccelogyne, 
 Cyprvpedmm, Dendrohium, Lcdia, Lycaste, Masdevallia, Odon- 
 toglossum, Oncidium, PJialcenopsis, and Vanda. The cultural 
 directions are given in the Plants Division. The value of the 
 exhibit depends much on the manner of arranging the bunches 
 and setting up the spikes. The flowers should be carefully 
 wired, so that the stalks may be bent into any position. They 
 should be arranged in triangular form, with the flowers facing 
 the sides as well as the front, and nothing is better than a few 
 of their own leaves around them ; but if they are not to be 
 
142 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 had, a few fern fronds or asparagus sprays may be used 
 instead. All leaves on the foot-stalks should be preserved, 
 as they improve the effect, and although wires are used for 
 setting up the flowers, the stems should be suificiently long 
 to reach the water, to keep the flowers fresh. The points of 
 merit are: (1.) Arrangement and size of spikes and flowers; 
 (2.) quality of the blooms; and (3.) colour, which should be 
 rich, pure, and the marking well defined. 
 
 PANSY. 
 
 This is a special favourite with the amateur florist, around 
 which his keenest interest centres, and its culture for exhibi- 
 tion is practically in his hands. Although lacking the showy 
 appearance of some others, such as the Gladiolus and Dahha, 
 still it has many quahties peculiar to itself, which attract 
 attention and enlist many horticulturists in its cultivation. 
 The following are among the finest Fancy and Show Pansies 
 for exhibition : — 
 
 Fancy Pansies, — A. M. Cocker, Bailie Donald, Beauty, David Hen- 
 derson, John Pope, Lady Wolseley, Lord Rosebery, Maggie Bella, 
 Miss Bliss, Mrs. John Downie, Neil M'Kay, and William Hayes. 
 
 Show Pansies. — Alexander Black, Countess of Rosebery, Devonia, 
 John Elder, Lord Frederick Cavendish, Mauve Queen, Miss 
 Philip, Mis.s Jessie Foot, Mrs. Gladstone, Mrs. Henderson, Sultan, 
 and The Favourite. 
 
 The Pansy is propagated by cuttings in early autumn, 
 selecting the shoots springing from the base of the plants, 
 and inserting them in boxes containing loam, leaf-mould, and 
 sand in equal proportions, placed in a cold frame and shaded 
 till roots have been made. The young plants should remain in 
 the frame till the following spring, when they may be planted 
 out in March, if early flowers are wanted, otherwise in April, 
 so that they may be established before the hot weather sets in. 
 Pansies succeed best in new soil, which makes them less liable 
 to die off during the hot months of June and July. Any 
 good garden soil suits them, but a strong moist loam is the 
 best. It should be well trenched and manured the year pre- 
 vious to planting, and cropped with potatoes, after which it will 
 
CUT FLOWERS. 143 
 
 be in good condition for pansies. If exhibition blooms be re- 
 quired in early summer, a plantation must be made in autumn, 
 and protected in winter from severe frosts and continued rains 
 by placing a frame over it, the sashes of which can be moved 
 at will. Three or four shoots will be sufficient for each plant, 
 and they should be carefully staked to prevent them being 
 broken. If flower-buds appear, they must be removed ; three 
 weeks being the time necessary for the full expansion of the 
 flower after the bud is seen. Slight shading is necessary for 
 a few days before the flowers are gathered, shading the blooms 
 only, which may be done by fastening a piece of cardboard to 
 a short stake and placing the shade over the bloom. The 
 plants should be kept well watered in dry weather, both at 
 the roots and over the tops, while an occasional sprinkling of 
 soot between the plants before watering will be beneficial. 
 Weak liquid manure made from cowdung given once a week 
 will greatly assist the perfect development of the blooms. An 
 occasional syringing, when the plants are growing, with soap- 
 suds will prevent greenfly attacking them ; but it must be 
 discontinued when the blooms have been chosen. A light 
 mulching with short grass prevents evaporation, and keeps 
 rain from splashing the flowers. The flowers should be care- 
 fully handled when staging them j the outer edges of the petals 
 should be slightly reflexed, and touching the stand, which 
 should be painted green, and no paper of any colour used 
 beneath the flowers. The points of merit in a Show Pansy 
 are: (1.) Size; (2.) form; and (3.) substance. According to 
 the predominating colour they are divided into three classes, 
 viz., selfs, white, and yellow grounds. The first comprises 
 dark, light, and yellow selfs. These should be rich and pure 
 in colour, with perfect centre. In the white and yellow classes 
 the ground colour should be bright, clean, and distinct, the eye 
 uniform and well defined. The Fancy Pansy may be said to 
 comprise all others which have not the distinctive character- 
 istics of the Show Pansy. They should be large, circular, 
 petals full, and overlapping. 
 
144 CUT- FLOWERS. 
 
 PENTSTEMOX. 
 
 The Pentstemon is a general favourite with exhibitors, from 
 the fact that it is very accommodating, easily grown, and can 
 be exhibited in good form with very little trouble, provided 
 that the proper varieties are cultivated. Among the best 
 for exhibition are Eclipse, F. W. Moor, Mont Blanc, Renown, 
 T. S. Ware, and W. B. Gladstone. Their cultivation is exactly 
 similar to that recommended for Antirrhinum. The points of 
 merit are : (1.) Size of spike and number of flowers ; (2.) size 
 and texture of the tube, the lip of which should be slightly 
 extended, and turned back to show the throat ; and (3.) colour, 
 which should be dense and clear, and the markings well 
 defined. 
 
 PHLOX. 
 
 This is a very showy flower, and when represented by good 
 varieties, well cultivated, they make a fine display. Some of 
 the best are Burns, Captain B. Jackson, Earl of Mar, John 
 Stewart, Miss Lingard, and Panama. The cultivation is 
 similar to the Antirrhinum. The points of merit are: (1.) 
 Size of spike and flowers ; (2.) form and colour. Selfs should 
 be pure, of decided colour, the markings uniform, and clearly 
 defined. 
 
 PICOTEE. 
 
 A very useful and pretty hardy flower, which is deservedly 
 popular at exhibitions. Twelve of the best Picotees for 
 exhibition are Ann Lord, Brunette, Evelyn, Favourite, Hero, 
 Lady Holmesdale, Mrs. Gordon, Mrs. Sharp, Paulina, Thomas 
 Williams, William Summers, and Violet Douglas. Their culti- 
 vation is similar in every respect to that of the Carnation in 
 the open air. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and form of 
 the bloom; (2.) substance and regularity in the disposition of 
 the petals ; (3.) colour, which should be pure and bright. 
 The lacing may be light or heavy, but distinct. 
 
 PINK. 
 This is another of the very useful hardy plants, which should 
 receive more attention on account of its fragrance and free 
 
CUT FLOWEES. 145 
 
 flowering nature. Among the best for exhibition are John 
 Love, J. Melville, Mrs. Sinkins, Mrs. T. M'Crorie, Mrs. 
 Welsh, and Robert Holmes. The cultivation is similar to 
 the Carnation. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and form 
 of the flower; (2.) colour and texture of the petals; (3.) 
 markings, which should be distinct and well defined. If of 
 one colour, it should be pure and decided. 
 
 PITJETHKOI. 
 
 A class of useful hardy herbaceous perennials, which has 
 been greatly improved in recent years, and become a general 
 favoimte. A stand of well-grown blooms, set up with their own 
 pretty foliage, almost rivals the best Chrysanthemums. A 
 few of the best for exhibition of the double and single varieties 
 are A. M. Kelway, Aphrodite, Cleopatra, Comet, Duke of 
 Edinburgh, Chamois, John Holborn, L. Kelway, Magician, 
 Melton, Model, and Sylphide. 
 
 The Pyi-ethrum is very easily cultivated, growing freely in 
 any good well-manured garden soil The ground should be 
 trenched two feet deep, and the plants put thuty inches apart, 
 and well watered and mulched in dry weather. Very httle is 
 required until the buds appear, when they should be thinned 
 out, and the best encouraged to grow strong by applications of 
 liquid manure once a week. The flowers should be protected 
 from the sun and rtiin after they are expanded. The points 
 of merit are : (1.) Size; (2.) form; (3.) colour. The flowers 
 bhould be round and full in the centre, and the petals free 
 from all blemishes. If the colour is white, it should be pure, 
 and bright if coloured. 
 
 EHODODEXDKOX. 
 
 The flowers of the Rhododendron make a fine exhibit when 
 they are done up with leaves and neatly arranged in a stand. 
 Fine large trusses set up singly have a splendid appearance, 
 and should always be exhibited in that manner. The follow- 
 ing are some of the best, including both greenhouse and hardy 
 varieties : — Album grandiflorum, Charles Bagley, Countess of 
 Haddington, Dalhousianum, Edgworthii, Lobbii, M'Xabii, 
 
146 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 Melton, Mrs. John Glutton, Sir Robei-t Peel, Sir Wm. Arm- 
 strong, and Vestal. The points of merit are : (1.) Size of 
 truss ; (2.) .size and texture of the flowers ; and (-3.) brightness 
 of the colours and distinctness of the markings. 
 
 EOSE. 
 
 Although the advance in quality has been less conspicuous 
 of late in the Rose than in almost any other class of florist's 
 flowers, still it nobly holds its own, and maintains as worthily 
 as ever its proud title of " The Queen of Flowers " — combining 
 beauty of form, lichness and diversity of colour, and exquisite 
 fragrance with great adaptability for decorative purposes, and 
 especially for making the most lovely of all displays at an 
 exhibition. The principal classes cultivated for exhibition are 
 the Hybrid Perpetual and the Tea Roses. The following selec- 
 tions of a dozen of each includes the best of the different shades 
 of colour, so that the stand may be as effective as possible : — 
 
 Hyhrid Perpetual Roses. — Baroness Rothschild, Comtesse de Chabril- 
 lant, Duchess of Bedford, Duke of Edinburgh, Etienne Levet, 
 Horace Vernet, La France, Lord Beaoonsfield, Mabel Morrison, 
 ^Madame Victor Verdier, Marie Baumanu, and Xavier Olibo. 
 
 Tea-Roses. — Anna Olivier, Catherine Mermet, Cleopatra, Madame 
 Bravy, Madame de Sirtot, Madame de Watteville, Madame 
 Pierre Guillot, Mrs. James Wilson, Niphetos, Princess Beatrice, 
 Souvenir d'Elise, Vardon, and The Bride. 
 
 These are mostly old and well-known varieties, but their 
 excellent qualities are not easily rivalled by any others of their 
 class and colour. 
 
 To grow the rose to perfection, a sheltered situation, fully 
 exposed to the sun, is best, and a rich, strong, loamy soil is 
 required. If the soil is naturally light, it should be made 
 more suitable by adding strong loam to it, the top spit of an 
 old pasture being the best when it can be procured. The 
 ground should be trenched and made up of good sound mate- 
 rials to a depth of about two feet, incorporating plenty of 
 well-rotted manure, wood-ashes, or other enriching material as 
 the work goes on. To obtain the largest and finest blooms, 
 dwarf low- budded plants of Hybrid Perpetuals on the Manetti 
 stock should be planted in the month of November. The 
 
CUT FLOWEEg. 147 
 
 planting should be carefully done, the long bare roots neatly 
 cut in, and the fibres evenly spread out as near the surface as 
 possible, so that the budded part is fairly covered with the 
 soil. The plants should be set about three feet apart, secured 
 to neat stakes, and the surface of the soil kept well mulched 
 with stable litter. The unripe tops of the shoots may be 
 shoi-tened when planted, but pruning should be delayed till 
 the middle of March, and then the shoots reduced to two, with 
 three or four eyes in each. No exhibition blooms may be 
 expected the first year, but everything should be done to pro- 
 mote vigour and maturity in the plants for the production of 
 first-class blooms in the second year, when roses are generally 
 at theii" best. Only two shoots from a root should be allowed 
 to grow. They should be carefully attended to, kept clean, 
 and all the flower-buds picked off as they appear, so as to get 
 the wood as strong and well ripened as possible. In March 
 of the second year the shoots should be pruned again to about 
 six inches from their base, and two young shoots allowed to 
 grow from each, and upon these the roses for exhibition are 
 grown. As soon as the best buds can be clearly seen, disbud- 
 ding should commence, carefully reserving the best formed and 
 plumpest buds that promise to open their flowers at the date 
 of the exhibition. Three buds on each shoot are enough at a 
 time, and all othei-s must be remorselessly picked off,- remov- 
 ing also all superfluous growth, so that the whole resources of 
 the plant be thrown into the development of the exhibition 
 roses. Water must be given in dry weather, and liquid manure 
 liberally applied when the buds are set and swelling off, keep- 
 ing all clean from insects and mildew. 
 
 The Tea-Roses thrive well under similar conditions as to 
 soil and treatment ; they are, however, not so hardy as the 
 Hybrid Perpetuals, and require to be well protected with a 
 deep covering of litter during the winter. Even with protec- 
 tion the wood is frequently killed to the gi-ound, but the litter 
 saves the frost getting at the roots, and most varieties will 
 start again freely from the collar. The Teas do best when 
 budded on the briar stock ; they should not be so close pruned 
 as the Hybrid Perpetuals, as they produce the finest blooms 
 
148 CUT FLOWEES. 
 
 from about the middle of the previous year's wood, when it is 
 well matured. The points of merit in Roses are: (1.) Size; 
 (2.) form ; and (3.) colour of the flowers. The larger the bloom 
 the better, pi-ovided it is full in the centre and of a good shape. 
 The petals should be thick, glossy, and regularly disposed, free 
 from all blemishes and notched edges, and the colour should 
 be clear and fresh. The blooms should always be exhibited 
 with foliage, which gives them a fresh and finished appearance, 
 and where it is necessary to add foliage it should not be over- 
 done, good ta.ste easily determining the right proportion. 
 
 STOCK. 
 There are several kinds of Stocks {Mattliiola), which among 
 them furnish a succession of flowers from early in the season 
 till late in autumn. So-wn the previous year and treated as a 
 biennial, the Brompton Stock begins the season, followed by 
 the Ten Weeks' Stock, an annual the name of which indicates 
 its precocity ; after which the Intermediate or East Lothian 
 Stock carries on the supply as long as mild weather lasts. 
 Seed should be saved from only the very best strains ; and for 
 Ijroducing double flowers, the plants from which the seed is 
 saved should be as old as it is possible to keep them before 
 allowing them to bear seed. The seed of Intermediate and 
 Ten Weeks' Stocks should be sown at the same time, and 
 the plants treated in the same manner as Asters. Stocks 
 should be exhibited either in a "single spike" — the proper 
 way as cut flowers — or the whole plant should be set up, with 
 or without the root ; but whatever form is adopted, it should 
 be clearly stipulated in the prize schedule to prevent confusion. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Length and diameter of the 
 spike; (2.) number and quality of the flowers, which should be 
 perfectly double ; and (3. ) substance of the petals, of which the 
 colour should be clear and bright. 
 
 STOVE FLOWERS. 
 This class is so profuse in excellent kinds of cut flowers for 
 exhibiting in bunches, that it is rather difficult, in making a 
 selection, to know exactly which to leave out. However, the 
 
CUT FLOWERS. 149 
 
 line must be drawn somewhere, and the following genera will 
 be found among the best and most suitable for the purpose : — 
 Allamanda, AmaryUh, Anthurium, Dipladenia, Eucharis, Fran- 
 ciscea, Gardenia, Ixora, Pancratium, Poinsettia, Rondeletia, and 
 Stephanoti^. Their cultivation is given in the First Division. 
 The manner of arranging the bunches and staging them is the 
 same as is recommended for Greenhouse Flowers, and the points 
 of merit are also similar. 
 
 VIOLA. 
 The Yiola has deservedly come into popular favour very much 
 of late years, owing to the great improvement in its varieties. 
 It is one of the hardiest and most usefvil of plants, and when 
 the flowers are set up on wires in bunches, they make a 
 pretty display on an exhibition table. The following varieties 
 are among the finest for competition : — Archibald Grant, 
 Buccleuch Gem, Countess of Hopetoun, Countess of Kintore, 
 Duchess of Albany, Evening Star, Gipsy Bride, Holyrood, 
 Lord Elcho, Mrs. John Clark, Skylark, and York and Lancaster. 
 The Viola is cultivated in a similar manner to the Pansy. If 
 planted in September, they have sufficient time to estabHsh 
 themselves before winter, and are less liable to be thrown out 
 of the ground by frost. "When planted in autumn they com- 
 mence blooming in early spring, and continue throughout the 
 season, but for vei'y late flowers they are best planted in the 
 spring. The points of merit are : (1.) Size and form of bloom ; 
 (2.) texture of petals; and (.3.) distinctness and brightness of 
 colouring. 
 
 BOUQUETS AND FLOKAL AERAXCiEilENTS. 
 "When this section of an exhibition is well filled, it never 
 fails to attract the attention and admiration of all classes of 
 visitors. They naturally look to this department for a display 
 of good taste and artistic arrangement, and for enlightenment 
 on the best methods of using cut flowers with the most perfect 
 effect in a style of decoration which has in recent times become 
 very fashionable. Therefore all illustrations and information 
 tending to efficiency in the art of floral decoration are welcomed 
 by the public. 
 
150 CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 A Hand- Bouquet should be built as light and airy as pos- 
 sible, in shape like two-thirds of a globe, and about nine inches 
 in diameter of flowers, exclusive of the fringe of fern fronds 
 or other greeneiy. In competition bouquets the dominant 
 colour of the flowers should be white, with a due blending of 
 delicate shades of pink, orange, and red, all of which should 
 harmonise with each other, and be tastefully set off with light 
 graceful sprays of maidenhair fern. All violent contrasts are 
 objectionable, and gaudy colours should be carefully avoided. 
 The choicest and finest floweis at command should be em- 
 ployed, and every bloom selected and examined with care 
 to see that it is pei-fect. Some of the best flowers for bou- 
 quets are those of the Bouvardia, Carnation, Chrysanthemum, 
 Erica, Eucharis, Gardenia, Lapageria, Lily, Lily of the 
 Valley, Narcissus, Orange, Orchids, Pancratium, Pink, Rose, 
 StephanotLs, Tabernaemontana, and Tuberose. 
 
 No frames should be used or allowed in the building of a 
 bouquet, but all the flowers should be carefully and neatly 
 wired. A piece moist wadding should be placed on the cut 
 end of the stem with the wire round it, thus affording a little 
 moisture, to retain the freshness of the flower as long as 
 possible. In commencing to make a bouquet, a groundwork 
 of flattish flowers should be formed about six inches wide, into 
 which the others should be regularly and tastefully inserted, 
 keeping the upper edge of the petals about two inches above 
 it without showing the wires. Each truss or bloom should 
 stand clear by itself, the various colour and forms being 
 distributed over the bouquet in harmonious order, and far 
 enough apart to allow the groundwork to be seen between 
 them. A few sprays of Adiantum gracillinvm should next be 
 inserted, spreading them gracefully over the top, and neatly 
 flnishing off with a fringe of Adiantum cuneatmu fronds 
 carefully placed round the edge. Bouquets built in this style 
 being free and open, look more natural and graceful than with 
 a close plain surface. Tastefully designed bouquet-papers 
 should be used for all hand-bouquets, and should be put on 
 when staging them. 
 
 The Bride's Bouquet should be of the same size and build 
 
CUT FLOWERS. 151 
 
 as the ordinary hand-bouquet, but composed entirely of white 
 flowers ; the sweet-scented orange-blossom being indispensable, 
 with the usual setting of graceful sprays of maidenhair and 
 sprigs of myrtle. 
 
 A Table Bouquet should be about 12 inches in diameter, 
 and built on the same principle as the hand-bouquet. In 
 making a table-bouquet for exhibition, a choice selection of 
 free sprays of large brilliant-coloured flowers may be used 
 along with those already mentioned, such as Allamanda, 
 Amaryllis, Azalea, Camellia, Dipladenia, Hibiscus, Lilium, 
 and Rhododendron. Graceful sprays of fine foliage plants 
 can be employed with good effect when placed tastefully 
 among the flowers and around the edge. Long fronds of 
 choice maidenhair fern should be gracefully disposed all over, 
 and a tasteful fringe of greenery round the edge to finish 
 it off. The flowers may be wired to keep them in position, 
 but a bouquet-paper should not be used. 
 
 Buttonhole Bouquets and Ladies' Speays. — The former 
 should be about three inches high and two inches wide at the 
 broadest part. The latter about nine inches in length and 
 three inches wide. They require to be made with great taste 
 and neatness, and of the choicest flowers. They should be 
 arranged on wires, beginning with a small graceful point, 
 gradually widening, and quickly rounding off to the stem. 
 They are generally exhibited in sets of six, and may be all 
 made of different flowers or in pairs. The smaller kinds of 
 flowers should be used, such as Orchids, Carnation, Bouvardia, 
 Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Forget-me-not, and Rosebuds. 
 The natural leaves of the flowers should be used along with 
 neat fern fronds as a background. 
 
 A Floral Wreath should be about 18 inches across, and 
 composed of choice flowers, which may be pure white or coloured, 
 according to taste. It should be built on a galvanised frame, 
 or ring of strong wire, covered with moss, over which should be 
 placed sprays of Cypress, Ferns, Mahonia, or such like, to form 
 a background. The flowers should all be wired (using No. 
 20) to go through the moss and keep them in position. A 
 groundwork of flowers should first be made over the sprays, 
 
152 CUT FLOWEBa 
 
 and then the largest flowers placed in the centre, with the 
 smaller ones disposed along the sides, and ferns tastefully 
 spread over all, giving an airy stpjjearance to the whole. 
 
 EpERGVEs. — These are of vari/yos shapes and sizes, but the 
 most graceful form should V>e employed, because it is impos- 
 sible, even with the l^est of skill and material, to produce the 
 same effective arrangement on one of a clumsy make as 
 could be done with one of a trraceful design. An excellent 
 design is one with a shallow cupped base and a trumpet vase 
 2J feet high, with three arms bending gracefully out from 
 the stem, and to the ends of which are attached small hanging 
 baskets. In filling the cnpped base, a little clean green moss 
 should be placed in the water, to rest the stems of the flowers 
 upon to keep them in position. The top or trumpet should be 
 filled with slender graceful flowers, the baskets with the finest 
 specimens, and the base with a mixture of large flowers and 
 foliage, with fern fronds spread over, covering the edge of the 
 dish, the points resting on the table. Trailing pieces of Sela- 
 ginellas or Lygodium scandens shovdd be neatly suspended from 
 the trumpet, and buds of Fuchsia or Begonia drooping over 
 the edge of the baskets prove very effective. 
 
 In judging this class, the peculiarities of taste will always 
 play a part, whether right or wrong, in arriving at a decision, 
 but with the size clearly defined and the style of arrangement 
 indicated, exhibitors will be enabled to enter into the contest 
 on even terms, and the chances of an unsatisfactory verdict be 
 reduced to a minimum. The points of merit are : (1.) Taste 
 displayed in the arrangement; (2.) quality; and (3.) variety 
 in the flowers. 
 
DIVISION III. 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 This is always an important department in horticultural 
 exhibitions, and more particularly in the autumn, when the 
 tables are laden with the richest treasures of Pomona, culled 
 from the hothouse, garden, and orchard. In no other section 
 is there such keen and persistent competition, and the laudable 
 ambition of every good grower of fruit to win high honours 
 at first-class shows is a marked feature of the times. The 
 great enthusiasm displn3-ed, and the long anxiety and hard 
 toil cheerfully undergone by most cultivators who reap the 
 laurels in fruit competitions, are not excelled, if equalled, in 
 all other branches of gardening. The ever-increasing demand 
 for the very best fruit of every kind has led to a considerable 
 revival of the public interest in home-grown fruits, and the 
 culture of hardy fruits has received a great impetus during 
 the past decade, owing partly to the unremunerative nature 
 of agricultural crops and the desire to find something more 
 profitable than the growing of grain, and partly to the interest 
 which has been stirred up in the question by a series of Con- 
 ferences on Fruits, held at Ohiswick since 188.3 by the Royal 
 Horticultural Society of London, and at Edinburgh since 1885 
 by the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. The former 
 Society has held Conferences and meetings on Apples, Pears, 
 Grapes, and other Fruits, at which their nomenclatvire was rec- 
 tified, the best varieties named, and the methods of culture 
 discussed, all of which has been embodied in the Reports of 
 the meetings issued by the Society, and form one of the most 
 valuable of pomological records in existence. The Scottish 
 Society held a Congi-ess on Apples and Pears in 1885, and on 
 Plums in 1889, and the mass, of practical information of the 
 
154 FRUIT. 
 
 most useful nature to the cultivator of those important Hardy 
 Fruits, which was gathered in connection with them, was pub- 
 lished in the Reports issued by the Society. The proceed- 
 ings at those Conferences and the Reports, and the comments 
 thereon in the daily papers and the horticultural press, have 
 awakened a deep interest in the public mind as to the great 
 importance of the adoption of imprQved methods of cultivation 
 and the extension of fruit-growing for market, as a profitable 
 branch of rural industry and a means of increasing the home 
 supply of wholesome food for the people. It is therefore in 
 accordance with the nature of things that the fruit section in 
 horticultural exhibitions should be a centre of great attraction 
 to the public as well as of the keenest competition amongst 
 growers of fruits. 
 
 THE APPLE. 
 
 The Apple (Pyriis Mahis) is a native of Britain and most 
 European countries, and its cultivated forms hrne spread to all 
 the civilised parts of the temperate zones, thriving as well in 
 Southern Tasmania as it does in Northern Canada, and in 
 both producing as fine fruit as the best that can be raised 
 in its native habitats in Europe. It is supposed to have 
 been cultivated in Britain by the Romans, and since the 
 Middle Ages at least it has been the chief fruit grown in this 
 countrj'. ^Man}- fine showy kinds are now imported in large 
 quantities from abroad, and the dessert varieties are, as a 
 rule, sweeter and more melting than the same varieties of 
 home growth, but they lack the fine aroma and piquant 
 flavour of the latter, when in well-ripened condition. The 
 culinary varieties from abroad are also large and very hand- 
 some in appearance, and find a ready market among our 
 teeming population, but they are much inferior to the best 
 home-grown culinary varieties in brisk, sprightly flavour, and 
 good cooking qualities. 
 
 Apples at exhibitions are usually divided into two classes, 
 Dessert and Culinary varieties. Of the former the follow- 
 ing are a few which ripen early, and are fit for exhibi- 
 tion at autumn shows a.^ "ripe" dessert fruit: — Devonshire 
 
FRUIT. 155 
 
 Quarrenden, Irish Peach, Kerry Pippin, Oslin, Thorle, and 
 * Worcester Pearmain. These all succeed and bear freely on 
 any form of a tree, but for growing them to supply superior 
 fruit for exhibition, the " bush " form of tree on the Paradise 
 stock is the most convenient and generally the best. When 
 properly attended to, by careful summer pinching, replanting 
 and root-pruning when needful, top-dressing, and watering 
 with liquid manure, such trees produce the very finest samples 
 of fruit in abundance ; the crop requiring to be well thinned to 
 allow the best fruits to attain perfection. 
 
 For a general collection of dessert apples to be exhibited 
 " ripe or unripe," the following are among the best and most 
 useful varieties in addition to the above six : — -Adam's Pear- 
 main, *Beauty of Bath, *Blenheim Pippin, Braddick's Non- 
 pareil, Claygate Pearmain, Cockle's Pippin, Coi'nish Aromatic, 
 Cornish Gilliflower, Court of Wick, Court Pendu Plat, *Cox's 
 Orange Pippin, *Duchess of Oldenburg, Dutch Mignonne, 
 Golden Pippin, *Gravenstein, *King Harr}', *King of the 
 Pippins, *Lady Sudeley, Mannington's Pearmain, Margil, 
 *Red Astrachan, Keinette du Canada, *Ribston Pippin, and 
 *Scarlet Nonpareil. 
 
 Among the finest varieties of culinary apples for exhibition 
 in a collection of " ripe or unripe " fruits the following thirtj' 
 may be named : — Alfriston, Annie Elizabeth, * Beauty of Kent, 
 Bedfordshire Foundling, *Blenheim Pippin, Bramley's Seed- 
 ling, Cox's Pomona, *Ecklinville Pippen, *Emperor Alexander, 
 Frogmore Prolific, *Gloria Mundi, *Golden Noble, Grenadier, 
 Kentish Fillbasket, Loddington, Lord Derby, *Lord Suffield, 
 *Mere de Menage, *Mrs. Barron, *Peasgood's Nonsuch, *Pott's 
 Seedling, Prince Albert, Red Winter Reinette, Stirling Castle, 
 Striped Beaufin, Tower of Glammis, *Warner's King, Welling- 
 ton, Wilts Defiance, and Winter Hawthoinden. 
 
 The finest twelve varieties of dessert and culinary apples 
 for exhibition are marked with an asferisk in the above lists. 
 Their large and handsome appearance, and the fine rich colour 
 of most of them, make them very attractive dishes on an 
 exhibition table. Many other handsome and useful apples are 
 extensively grown in various parts of tlie countrj', and some 
 
156 FRUIT. 
 
 of them may take precedence, when well grown, over those in 
 the lists, which are only intended as a guide to the uninitiated 
 in selecting the varieties for successful competition. All exhi- 
 bitors of fmit select the best varieties at their command, 
 with little regard as to whether they have only a local or a 
 widely known reputation. 
 
 Well-formed, healthy, dwarf, pyramid ti'ees, grafted on the 
 proper stock, should be obtained early in Autumn, or as soon as 
 the leaves have fallen, and be planted on a well-prepared loam, 
 spreading out the roots, and keeping them near the surface. 
 Provision should be made for the production of early fruit, as 
 well as for the growth of the more tender varieties, by planting 
 them against a wall. After planting the trees, and staking 
 those that require it, a mulching of stable manure should be 
 spread over the roots. Defer pruning till spring, when the 
 leader should be shortened to about one foot in length, and 
 the side-.shoots to about nine inches. As the young shoots 
 grow they should be pinched when about six inches long, to 
 form fruit-bearing spurs, continuing this operation as long as 
 growth is being made, and then very little winter pruning 
 will be necessary. 
 
 The apple is subject to the attack of many insects, but the 
 caterpillar of the winter moth is the most destructive. Pinch 
 the infected leaves and growths to clean the trees of insects, 
 and remove all small and deformed fruit after they are set and 
 swelling. Not more than one fruit on each spur should be 
 left at the final thinning, as overcropping invariably ends in 
 failure. Liquid manure should be freely applied when the 
 fruit is swelling, and the ground mulched to produce a healthy 
 root action and large fruit. It will not do for the exhibitor 
 to neglect the trees all summer, and go round them the day 
 before the show looking for the apples that will bring him 
 success. He must diligently look to their wants fi'om the 
 time they start into growth until the fruit is ready to gather. 
 The trees should be root-pruned if necessary as soon as the 
 leaves begin to fall in October, by making an excavation about 
 three feet from the stem, to admit of all downward running 
 roots being cut ; which operation has also the tendency to pre- 
 
FEUIT. 157 
 
 vent canker in the tree, and to promote the formation of fruit 
 in place of wood buds. To grow first-rate fruit of Cox's 
 Orange and Kibston Pippin, as well as many other iine 
 varieties, a wall is necessary outside of the most favourable 
 localities. The trees should be trained on the cordon system, 
 by leading two or more shoots up the wall. By pinching in 
 the side-shoots to form spurs, keeping the trees clean, and 
 feeding the roots while the crop is swelling, excellent apples 
 should be obtained. The points of merit are : (1.) Large 
 size; (2.) handsome form; and (3.) skin, smooth and clear in 
 colour. Dessert apples should be sweet, juicy, and melting, 
 with a rich pleasing aroma. Culinary apples should be acid, 
 ciisp, and juicy, and, when cooked, the flesh should be clear in 
 colour and melting, with a brisk pleasing acidity. 
 
 THE APKICOT. 
 The Apricot is considered to be indigenous to Armenia, but 
 has been found growing wild in many parts of Asia and 
 Africa with a semi-tropical climate, where in most instances, 
 however, it is supposed to be an escape from cultivation. It 
 is stated to have been introduced from Italy to Britain in 
 1524 by Woolf, gardener to Henry VIII. ; and in this country 
 it requires a wall and a well-sheltered situation to bring the 
 fruit to perfection. A well-built brick wall is the most suit- 
 able for growing the Apricot ; and in favourable situations it 
 may face any point of south between south-east and south- 
 west, but in cold districts it must face due south. Some of 
 the best exhibition varieties are Hemskirke, Large Early, Moor- 
 park, and Shipley's. The border on which they are grown 
 should be well drained, as the Apricot is impatient of stagnant 
 moisture. Like most stone fruits, it delights in a calcareous 
 soil, and if lime is absent from the fibry loam with which the 
 border is formed, some lime rubbish should be added, and 
 also a little sharp sand and wood-ashes if the soil is of an 
 adhesive nature. Young trained trees, healthy and well 
 ripened, should be planted as soon as the leaves have fallen, 
 watering them if the soil is dry, and mulching to prevent eva- 
 poration and to protect the roots in winter. By careful pinch- 
 
158 FEUIT. 
 
 ing. disbudding, and regulating the shoots during summer, the 
 trees should, in two or three years, be in a fit condition for 
 the production of first-rate fruit, suitable for exhibition. In 
 the summer treatment, the shoots should be kept equal in 
 strength, because strong gross wood is very liable to disease, 
 and to cause disfigurement of the tree. To prevent this, 
 pinch and depress the strong shoots ; and if gross growth 
 still continues, or if canker appears, lift the trees, prune 
 the roots, and replant in fresh soil. The principal points 
 in the successful cultivation of the Apricot are : the pro- 
 tection of the blossom ; thinning of the fruit, and giving 
 it clear room to swell to its greatest size ; thinning and 
 training of the young shoots to facilitate their ripening, 
 as they produce the finest fruit ; careful watering in dry 
 weather ; giving liquid manure when the crop is swelling ; and 
 mulching heavily to keep the border cool and moist in hot 
 weather. Although the Apricot is comparatively free from 
 the attack of insects, red-spider and greenfly sometimes make 
 their appearance, but they are easily got rid of by the usual 
 means ; and if woodlice attack the fruit when it is ripening, 
 they should be at once trapped. The fruit should be gathered 
 before it is over-ripe, and placed on soft paper in the fruit- 
 room till it is wanted, when it should be wrapped in tissue- 
 paper and cotton-wool, and carefully packed for transit to the 
 exhibition. Nine fruits make a nice dish, and in setting them 
 up, a jjiece of cotton-wool should be placed in the centre of 
 the dish and covered with leaves, on which the fruits should 
 be equally disposed without actually touching each other. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; and (3.) colour. 
 
 THE BANANA. 
 
 This is one of those rare tropical fruits which in cultivation 
 combine the useful with the beautiful in a marked degree. 
 Its culture as a handsome foliage plant has been already 
 described in the First Division. Musa CavendisMi also fur- 
 nishes the exhibitor with a first-class dish of fruit for compe- 
 tition, to secure which it is necessary that it be planted in a 
 
FRUIT. 159 
 
 rich and well-prepared border, made of the same materials and 
 receiving the treatment as described for foliage plants, till the 
 fruiting stage is I'eached, or when the plant has attained full 
 size. Water should then be withheld for about a month, and 
 with a thorough soaking of tepid water applied to the roots at 
 the end of that period, the plant will immediately throw up 
 a bunch of fruit. A high and moderately moist temperature 
 must be maintained to set and develop as many " hands " of 
 fruit as possible ; and when no more will set, the point of the 
 bunch should be cut away. Abundance of heat, moisture, 
 light, and air, with copious drenchings of liquid manure at the 
 roots, will swell the fruit -to its finest size. As it approaches 
 maturity, or about ten weeks after flowering, water must be 
 gradually reduced, and entireh' withheld as soon as the first 
 fruits show colour, with the atmosphere kept as dry as possible 
 to prevent the fruit becoming spotted. As soon as they are 
 all about an equal size and the bunch about half -coloured, it 
 should be cut and hung up in a dry warm place and shaded 
 from bright sunshine, when it will assume a rich yellow colour 
 throughout, in a few days, and is then in a proper state foi' 
 exhibition. A well-grown and properly timed plant will sup- 
 ply a bunch of fine ripe fruit within a week of a given date 
 under careful treatment. The points of merit are : (1.) Size 
 of bunch; (2.) size, equality, and ripeness of the fruit; and 
 (3.) colour, which should be a clear yellow. 
 
 THE CHEERY. 
 
 The Cherry has been cultivated in Britain for its fruit for 
 many ages, and in some parts, particularly in Kent, cherry 
 orchards form an important and lucrative branch of rural 
 industry. As an exhibition fruit it is held in considerable 
 esteem, especially early in the season, when other fruits of 
 high quality and attractive appearance are not plentiful. It 
 ripeifis first of all our hardy tree fruits, and when grown under 
 glass with very little artificial heat, it attains great perfection 
 in May and June, and is then a highly appreciated and much 
 valued dish of dessert. Among the finest varieties for exhibi- 
 
160 FRUIT. 
 
 tion are the following ; — (1.) Dark-coloured : Black Tartarian, 
 May Duke, and Morello ; (2.) Light-coloured : Bigarreau Napo- 
 leon, Elton, and Frogmore Early. The Cherry prefers a deep, 
 well-drained, friable loam, and thrives well under the same 
 treatment as other hardy fruit trees. It bears freely on 
 bushes and standards in favourable situations, but in most 
 parts of the country it requires to be trained against a good 
 wall to obtain exhibition fruit of the highest excellence. The 
 finest fruit is obtained by paying due attention to keeping the 
 trees healthy and vigorous, free from all insects, pinching and 
 regulating the shoots, thinning the fruit to a moderate crop, 
 and securely protecting it from the ravages of birds, mulching 
 the surface to protect and encourage the roots, and a judicious 
 use of liquid manure to swell the fniit to its largest size. 
 When nearing maturity the fruit should be fully exposed to 
 the light, to colour and flavour it to perfection. The Cherry 
 makes a beautiful dish when built in the form of r., cone with 
 all the stalks hidden from view, and in a collection of hardy 
 fruit it is almost indispensable. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; and (3.) colour and equality. 
 
 THE CUEEAXT. 
 
 The Currant is one of our most useful and prolific bush 
 fruits. Both the Black and Bed species are indigenous to 
 Britain, where they are extensively grown and used in a ripe 
 state for a variety of purposes, beside being among the best 
 fruits for the manufacture of preserves. The fruit keeps fi-esh 
 and good for weeks of ordinary weather on the bushes after 
 ripening when protected from the ravages of birds, and forms 
 an attractive dish for exhibition. Being cultivated by every 
 one who has a garden, a keen contest for supremacy on the 
 exhibition table is engaged in, especially at country shows, and 
 although few reach the standard of perfection, the majority of 
 dishes are creditably shown. When Currants are well treated 
 they can be grown to a large size, and the cultivation of large 
 berries should be aimed at, whether they are intended for 
 exhibition, market, or private use. Among the best Black 
 
FRUIT. 161 
 
 varieties are Black Champion and Black Naples ; Red varieties, 
 Defiance and M'amer's Grape; and White varieties, Out-leaved 
 "White Dutch and White Versailles. Young plants are easily- 
 raised from cuttings, and in two years are fit for planting. 
 Good fruit can be grown on bushes in the open, but walls 
 are best for growing competition fruit — a south wall for the 
 earliest, and a north aspect for later use. By planting on 
 dififerent aspects a suppl}' can be had from midsummer till 
 late m autumn. The shoots of the Black Currant should be 
 thinly laid in and trained over the wall. In training the Red 
 and White Currants, four shoots should be led up the wall at 
 15 inches apart, and the side-shoots kept pinched in summer 
 and pruned in winter to about two eyes from their base. 
 Plenty of light and air should be admitted to the fruit by 
 pinching and cutting out superfluous wood, and the clusters 
 thinned if too numerous. In June a top-di'essing of well- 
 rotted poultry-j-ard maniu'e mixed with fresh loam and soot is 
 beneficial to all Currants, and liquid manure, applied as the 
 fruit is swelling, improves the size of bunch and berry. Black 
 Currants should be gathered and exhibited singly, with part 
 of the footstalk attached to the berry, while the Red and 
 White should be exhibited in the bunch. They make a nice 
 dish when arranged with the stalks in the centre out of sight, 
 and neatly finished off in a conical form. The points of 
 merit in Black Currants are: (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; and 
 (3.) colour. In the Red and White : (1.) Size and flavour 
 of berries ; (2.) number and equality of the .berries in the 
 bunch; and (3.) colour. 
 
 THE FIG. 
 
 The Fig is one of the most fruitful of trees, some varieties 
 producing, under favourable circumstances, three crops in the 
 year. It is a native of Europe and certain parts of Africa, 
 and it lives to a great age. Good crops of fine fruit have been 
 grown on trees against south walls, in favourable districts, as 
 far north as Ross-shire, with some protection in winter and 
 spring, but they cannot be depended upon except in the best 
 localities in the South of England. Among the best exhibition 
 
162 FRUIT. 
 
 varieties are Brown Turkey, Castle Kennedy, and Negro 
 Largo. Where a house is devoted to the Fig, its culture 
 is a very simple matter ; but as a fig-house is only found, as 
 a rule, in extensive gardens, a few hints on its cultivation 
 among other plants may he of service. It thrives and fruits 
 well on the back-wall of a vinery when not too much shaded, 
 if the roots are confined to a limited space among rough loam, 
 lime rubbish, brickbats, and some half-inch bones. For the 
 first crop of figs ripe in May and June, a vinery started in 
 January is necessary, the fruit being borne on the previous 
 year's growth. If the crop is too thick, it should be thinned, 
 leaving the best fruit at six inches apart on the shoots. As 
 soon as they begin to swell, tepid liquid manure should be 
 freely given, and the syringe applied morning and evening 
 until the fruit begins to ripen, when the moisture should be 
 reduced, and only sufiicient water given as will keep the plants 
 healthy. Figs in pots, after being well rested, should be in- 
 troduced to the second vinery early in March. Thej' should 
 be potted in the same material, and, if well supplied with 
 liquid manure when the crop is swelling, good exhibition fruit 
 should be ripe from June till August. A supply from then 
 till October will be furnished by trees in the cool peach-house, 
 grown under the same conditions as those on the back wall of 
 the vinery. The second crop from trees in the vinery should 
 also be available to meet the demand for autumn shows. 
 The Fig is a very gross feeder, and it is by the judicious 
 application of liquid and solid manuies that the finest fruit 
 is grown. The fruit when ripe should be cut close to the stem 
 with a sharp knife, to prevent injury in gathering, then placed 
 in tissue-paper and packed carefully for transit. Six large 
 fruits are sufficient to make a dish. The points of merit 
 are: (1.) Size; (2.) colour; (3.) flavour; the skin should be 
 dry, and not too much burst open. 
 
 THE GOOSEBEEKY. 
 
 The Gooseberry belongs to the genus Ribes, and is a native 
 of Britain and the temperate parts of Europe. It attains the 
 
FRUIT. 163 
 
 higliest perfection in certain districts of the country, where 
 summer heat seldom exceeds 75°. With good cultivation 
 they grow to a large size, are very luscious, and much appre- 
 ciated as dessert. A dozen of the largest and best flavoured 
 varieties for exhibition are : (Ked) Industry, Keen's Seed- 
 ling, Rifleman, and Warrington ; (White or Green) Bright 
 Venus, Hedgehog, Snowdrop, and Whitesmith ; (Yellow) Early 
 Sulphur, Leader, Leveller, and Mount Pleasant. The Goose- 
 berry thrives best in a free loamy soil on a clay subsoil in an 
 open situation, and bears the best fruit on young well-ripened 
 wood of the previous year. If they run to gross wood, the 
 bushes should be lifted and transplanted, which brings them 
 into fine bearing condition. The shoots should be thinned 
 out in summer, and the only winter pruning will be the 
 partial shortening of the fruit-bearing shoots. After the 
 fruit is set, the ground should be mulched, and the bushes 
 liberally fed with liquid manure while the crop is swelling. 
 When the fruit begins to ripen, no water should be given, 
 and some varieties require protection from heavy rain, to 
 prevent bursting. The crop should be thinned if necessary, 
 and the flavour is much improved by a full exposure to the 
 sun while ripening. They make a fine dish when set up in 
 conical form, with the stalks ovit of sight. The points of 
 merit are : (1.) Flavour; (2.) size; (3.) colour, and thinness 
 of skin. 
 
 THE GEAPE. 
 
 The successful cultivation of the Grape Vine is considered 
 by many to be the masterpiece of horticultural skill; and 
 although possessed of a strong constitution, and capable of 
 adapting itself to many conditions of soil and circumstances, 
 yet thei'e is no plant which so soon shows the results of un- 
 skilful management, or so well repays the grower for liberal 
 treatment and any special care bestowed on it, by the well- 
 developed and highly-finished clusters of luscious fruit. There 
 are several well-marked stages of development in the vine 
 and its produce, from the time of starting to gi-ow till the 
 fruit is gathered, each requiring its special line of treatment 
 
164 FRUIT. 
 
 and entailing a considerable amount of care, skill, and close 
 observation to foresee results and keep clear of all that tends 
 to interfere with perfection in the Grape. Being the most 
 IJopulai- of all hothouse fruits, the culture of the Grape is 
 entered into with gi-eat zest by those amateurs who can 
 afford the luxury of a vinery, and by every professional hor- 
 ticulturist who has an opportunity. For exhibition purposes, 
 howevei-, its cultivation is carried on by a comparatively 
 small proportion of the total number of growers, which might 
 be greatly increa.sed, to the mutual advantage of all concerned. 
 In .^electing the best varieties of grapes for exhibition, the 
 Muscat of Alexandria may well hold the premier place. Its 
 large and handsome-shaped bunches and berries, beautiful 
 colour, richly luscious flesh, and high flavour are not found 
 combined to the sam^e extent in any other variety. The Black 
 Hambui-gh keeps close company with the Muscat, slightly 
 behind it in some points, while excelling it in others, and 
 especially in general utility. The many excellent qualities of 
 Madre^field Court claim for it a place next the Hamburgh 
 among black grapes, while among white varieties Buck- 
 land's Sweetwater, in its best form, may be placed next the 
 Muscat, although a long wa}^ behind that superior grape. 
 Among other white gi-apes, Foster's Seedling, Golden Queen, 
 Mis. Pearson, and Tokay are good useful grapes, while Syrian, 
 Trebbiano, and White Xice bear large handsome bunches, but 
 being deficient in quality and flavour, they may be considered 
 third-c]as^> grapes. Duke of Buccleuch is a fine early white 
 grape, with splendid benies, but difficult to get in first-rate 
 condition ; and the Duchess of Buccleuch, although small in 
 berrv, i.-. unrivalled for flavour. Among other black varieties, 
 Lady Downes, Muscat Hamburgh, and Mrs. Pince, when in 
 first-rate condition, come near the top of the list. Alicante 
 and Alnwick Seedling bear handsome bunches of fine berries, 
 with a dense bloom, while the enormous bunches of Gros 
 Guillaume, and the enormous berries of Gros Colman and 
 Gros Maroc, when well finished, carry them well to the front 
 in competition, and from a commercial point of view the last 
 two might almost top the list. 
 
FRUIT. 165 
 
 To grow grapes to the highest state of perfection for exhi- 
 bition, the vines mvist be comparatively young and in vigorous 
 health, with the borders fresh and well made. Worn-out vines 
 and exhausted borders are totally incapable of producing first- 
 class grapes, and must be renewed if the grower is to have any 
 chance to command success. In choosing the site of a vinery, 
 an open position with a gentle slope to the south is to be 
 preferred. A lean-to house of the following dimensions makes 
 a first-rate vinery for all ordinary purposes — Height at back, 
 1-5 feet; at front, 3 feet; with a width of 15 feet; giving a 
 length of rod of vine of about 21 feet. This structure should 
 be divided into convenient lengths, but not less than 30 feet, 
 which is sufficient for growing three or four kinds ; and more 
 varieties should not be grown in the same house if it can be 
 avoided. The earth should be excavated to a depth of about 
 3 feet 6 inches, and thus allow 3 inches for concrete in unsuit- 
 able subsoil for vine roots ; 9 inches for perfect drainage, and 
 2 feet 6 inches for the soil in which the vines are to grow. 
 Deeper borders are unnecessar}', and in strong soils the depth 
 may be reduced to 2 feet of soil with advantage. Surface 
 dressings, liquid manure, and the beneficial influence of air 
 and light operate most effectually on the roots in comparativelj* 
 shallow borders, and lengthened experience has fully proved 
 the good results. The concrete, where necessary, is composed 
 of a layer of lime and gravel or ashes, well mixed in the propor- 
 tion of about one of lime to six of gravel, laid on while the lime 
 is hot, levelled and beaten smooth, and allowed a few days to 
 dry and consolidate, when it forms a hard impervious bottom, 
 and should have sufficient slope to run water off quickly. On 
 this the drainage is carefully laid, from six to nine inches deep, 
 according to the slope of the bottom and the nature of the 
 materials. The top of the drainage fairly levelled, and a turf 
 with the grass downwards laid all over it, makes all ready for 
 the soil. This is usually obtained from an old pasture by 
 stripping the top three inches or more, according to the 
 quality, a moderately stiff marly loam being the most suitable. 
 It .should be chopped into pieces about four inches square, and 
 mixed with a little lime and brick rubbish, according to its 
 
166 FRUIT. 
 
 nature, to keep it open and allow water to percolate freely. 
 A little wood-ashes may also be added, but as a rule no organic 
 manures should be mixed with the soil when making the 
 border. Too rich a soil has a tendency to cause over luxuri- 
 ance, which is not conducive to fruitfulness. The proper aim 
 should be to lay a good foundation on a moderate growth of 
 well-ripened wood. The compost having been carefully put 
 in its place and well consolidated, the border will be in readi- 
 ness for the planting of the vines. Many varieties are often 
 seen planted in the same house, no consideration having been 
 given as to whether they were amenable to the same treat- 
 ment or not. This error should be strictly avoided, and only 
 those varieties planted in the same house which are known to 
 succeed under the same treatment and temperature. One or 
 two houses should be devoted to those requiring a high tem- 
 perature, such as the Muscat of Alexandria, Mrs. Pince, Muscat 
 Hamburgh, Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, and Trebbiano. 
 Although the three last are not high-flavoured grapes, they are 
 improved by the same treatment as Muscats. Other houses may 
 contain Alicante, Alnwick Seedling, Black Hamburgh, Buckland 
 Sweetwater, Golden Queen, Madresfield Court, and their like. 
 The houses are, say, 30 feet long, taking nine vines, each 
 3 feet 4 inches apart. The roots of the vines should be care- 
 fully examined before planting, to ascertain if they are in a 
 healthy state and likely to make a good start. If the canes 
 are long, they should be bent horizontal, and the eyes cut out 
 to within a foot of the roots. Early in March the vines should 
 be placed in a gentle heat, and when they have grown about 
 three inches they are ready for planting ; shaking them care- 
 fully out, pruning any long roots, and spreading all carefully 
 out, and covering them with some of the finest of the soil, 
 settling it about them with tepid water, and finishing off all 
 smoothly. After the roots have got hold of the soil, watering 
 must be carefully attended to, as neglect of this is a frequent 
 source of failure in vines, especially at first, when the border 
 is extremely porous, and water percolates freely to the drain- 
 age. The strong roots in searching for water push their way 
 downwards until they form a perfect mass at the bottom of 
 
FRUIT. 167 
 
 the border, choking the drainage, and causing late starting, 
 late ripening, and inferior fruit, with more or less shrivelling. 
 
 It is found that by lifting the roots of vin.satisf actory Muscat.s 
 and laying them near the surface, the vigour of the plant and 
 the quality of the fruit is restored to its normal condition. 
 This may apply with more or less effect to other grapes, but 
 it is especially noticeable with Muscat of Alexandria. To 
 prevent the roots going down, the border should be mulched 
 and frequently watered. Close attention must also be given 
 to the atmospheric conditions. A temperature of 50° at night 
 and 60° by day should not be exceeded until the leading shoot 
 is about two feet long, and the roots taking kindly to the soil. 
 It is of the utmost importance not to exhaust the sap in the 
 stem by too much heat until the roots are in a condition to 
 supply the demand. Otherwise the plants may survive, but a 
 check is given to them from which they will not soon recover. 
 ^ATien the roots are actively at work, 5° more of heat may be 
 given both day and night, with plenty of moisture kept up by 
 S'^-ringing in the morning and afternoon, and damping the 
 border several times daily. By the time the shoots are half 
 way up the roof, the temperature should be 60° at night, 70° 
 to 80° with sunshine during the day. All laterals should be 
 pinched at the second leaf, and the sub-laterals at the first 
 leaf, which is much better for the vines than the detrimental 
 practice of allowing the laterals to grow without stopping 
 until the roof is entirety covered. The sap should be concen- 
 trated as much as possible in the stem, to be utilised in pro- 
 ducing the growth of the following year. 
 
 Due regard having been paid to watering, airing, tempera- 
 ture, and keeping insects in check during the summer, the shoots 
 should be well ripened and ready for pruning by December. 
 A perfect rest of at least two months without heat should be 
 given to all vines, whether old or young. In pruning, an ej'e 
 should be selected on each side of the rod near the bottom of 
 the rafter, from which to form the future spurs, and an eye 
 above to form the leading shoot. All loose bark should be 
 removed, and the rods washed and dressed with some approved 
 insecticide. Forcing should commence about the middle of 
 
168 FKUIT. 
 
 February, with a temperature of 55° at night, 60° to 70° by 
 day, increasing to 60° at night as the leaves expand. By 
 midsummer the heat should rise to 65° at night and 80° 
 to 90° with sunshine during the day for the Muscat house, 
 and the cooler houses always kept 5° lower. All laterals 
 should be regularly pinched, and the side-shoots to form the 
 spurs should be stopped at the sixth leaf and tied to the wires 
 as soon as they can be safely handled, but great care must be 
 taken, as they snap off very easily. A few of the shoots lower 
 down the rod should be left, and pinched at the third leaf so 
 as to clothe the stem, but all bunches should be removed. 
 The treatment of the vines in the second year is exactly 
 similar to that of the first year. 
 
 The third or fruiting year may be regarded as the most 
 important, as then the whole circle of treatment is carried 
 out. The side-shoots should be pruned at the first eye, or 
 second if most prominent, and the leading shoot shortened 
 to about '2h feet, which will furnish two laterals on each side 
 about 14 inches apart. Muscats and other white kinds succeed 
 best, however, with the spurs 18 inches apart, to admit plenty 
 of light to assist the colouring of the fruit. This is also 
 necessary to the perfect colouring of some of the black kinds 
 with thick tough skins. 
 
 The advantages gained by moderately close pruning are : 
 (1.) Securing a gradual thickness and strength from the root 
 upwards; (2.) ensuring a regular break ; (3.) admitting more 
 light and a freer circulation of air among the vines ; and (4.) 
 as a prevention of overcropping, by restricting the number of 
 bearing shoots while the vines are young. After the rods are 
 cleaned and dressed, the surface soil should be taken off the 
 inside border down to the roots. The border may have sub- 
 sided, and should be made up with turfy loam mixed with 
 half-a-peck of artificial vine manure and the same quantity 
 of bone-meal to the barrow-load of soil, and with some 
 decomposed manure bring it up to the original level, finishing 
 off with a thin layer of fine soil and wood-ashes. 
 
 In order to obtain perfectly' finished grapes in August, 
 forcins? should commence in the Muscat house towards th§ 
 
FRUIT. 169 
 
 end of January, witli a temperature of 60° to 65°, and in the 
 second house in the middle of February, with 5° less heat, 
 rising gradually with the advance of the season. Some 
 flowers will be opening by the middle of April, when the heat 
 should range from 65° to 70° at night, with a rise of 10° during 
 the day and a drier atmosphere. This is an important stage 
 in the growth of the grape. On the successful fertilisation 
 of the flower depends the symmetry of the bunch and size of 
 the berry, two properties which contribute largely to the for- 
 mation of a perfect bunch. A successful set is believed to be 
 largely due to the favourable state of the weather at the time 
 of flowering ; but experience teaches us that the use of the 
 camel's-hair brush is a great assistance in effecting this desirable 
 result, by removing any exudation from the stigma, and diffus- 
 ing the pollen equally over the flowers. The transference of 
 the pollen of one variety to another, and from those with 
 plenty to others that are deficient, is beneficial in perfect- 
 ing fertilisation. Previous to flowering, remove .all bunches - 
 except the best one on each lateral, and allow none on the 
 leading shoot. After setting, a further reduction of the 
 bunches is necessary to obtain success and to do justice to the 
 vines. It is not usual to lay down rules for the cropping of 
 vines, so much depends on the strength of the plants and 
 other circumstances ; but as we are dealing only with those 
 which are in the very best condition, we may endeavour to 
 define what should be a fair crop on vines three years old or 
 the first season of bearing. Although the perfect finish and 
 colour of the fruit may be a good measure of the capacity of 
 a vine, it may be all that could be desired, and yet the vine be 
 so much overcropped as to very much impair its vitality. To 
 produce exhibition bunches, all vines of equal strength should 
 carry the same weight of grapes, say from six to seven pounds, 
 at three years old. The berries should be thinned as early 
 as possible after they are set. This operation is not easily 
 described, but a few observations will be of some service 
 to those not thoroughly conversant with the process. The 
 object of thinning is to obtain shapely bunches and large 
 berries, giving just as much room to each berry as it requires 
 
170 FEUIT. 
 
 for attaining its full size.' If it is possible to complete the 
 operation at once, it should be done; but to secure equal 
 berries it is often necessary to leave more than is required in 
 view of a second thinning. This should be effected as soon as 
 it is clearly seen which berries are likely to attain a full size. 
 Large berries on strong foot- stalks are not readily over-thinned. 
 Long lopping shoulders should be cut in, and may be slung if 
 necessary to keep them square ; but tying up generally should 
 be avoided, as loose bvinches are of lei^s value in competition 
 than those of a firm and compact build. When the berries 
 are swelling freely, a temperature of 65° to 70° at night, with 
 7-5° to 80° during the day, should be maintained, while 90° 
 may be reached with strong sunshine and plenty of ventila- 
 tion. At this stage, and previous to colouring, surface dress- 
 ings of different kinds of approved manures should be given. 
 Besides manures specially prepared for vines, fish manure, 
 bone-meal, and Peruvian guano all contain elements of great 
 value in the successful cultivation of the vine. These should 
 be applied thinly but often to the surface of the border, and 
 watered in. By the time the berries are the size of peas, it 
 will be necessary to maintain a night temperature of 70°, and 
 during the dav SO' to 90° in sunshine. Muscats and some 
 other varieties are liable to have their leaves scorched about 
 this time, especially aft-er dull days. Free ventilation night 
 and dav, and a lower temperature and drier atmosphere for 
 a few davs, will prevent scorching of either leaves or fruit. 
 
 The airing of vineries is. as a mle, not sufficiently studied, 
 and the temperature is too often allowed to rise to a certain 
 decree with the snn shining before the ventilators are moved 
 at all. This is a bad practice, considering the state of the 
 atmosphere in houses of modem construction, and is a prolific 
 source of scorching. When vines are in full growth, top 
 ventilation .should be given as soon as the thermometer indi- 
 cates a rise from the heat of the sun, but not in excess to 
 cause the mercury to fall. The temperature may then rise 
 5° before admitting front air or giving more at the top. In 
 order to keep the atmosphere sweet and moist, water should 
 be sprinkled on the border and path several times daily. 
 
FBOT. 171 
 
 Shutting up early in the afternoon is recommended bj- some 
 to utilise the natural heat and save the artificial. This, in a 
 certain measure, is to be commended ; but in closing the ven- 
 tilators while the sun's raj-s are so strong as to raise the 
 temperatiire to 100° or more, and then deluging the house 
 with water through the engine or syringe, amounts to what is 
 termed the '• steaming system," and is not at all a wise or 
 natural process. This saturated atmosphere may be con- 
 genial to rapid growth, but when it is made at the expense 
 of the perfect elaboration of the sap and consolidation of the 
 tissue, a check is given to the functional operations, causing 
 general derangement, from which can be traced some of the 
 disorders of the vine which are often attributed to other 
 causes, and consequently excessive moisture in a close atmos- 
 phere should be avoided. During the stoning period, undue 
 forcing is certain to produce scalding in the berries of varieties 
 liable to it, but a free circulation of air both night and day 
 with 5° less of heat will prevent its occurrence to any great 
 extent. When the berries are stoned and begin to swell, the 
 former conditions as to heat, moisture, and manuring should 
 be resumed. When signs of colour appear, a copious watering 
 should be given to any varieties of which the berries are liable 
 to crack. After this they should be kept comparatively dry 
 till the ripening is complete, when sufficient water may be 
 given to keep the roots active and healthy without any danger 
 of the berries cracking ; but to prevent injury by damp, the 
 watering should be done on a dry clear morning. Other 
 varieties may be watered when necessary throughout the 
 ripening process, and some dry mushroom-bed manure spread 
 on the border to prevent evaporation. Keep up a free circu- 
 lation of dry wai'm air at night by leaving a small opening at 
 top and front, keeping up the same temperature of 70° for 
 [Muscats and 6-5° for the others, to be gradually reduced as the 
 final stage is reached. 
 
 A careful watch should always be kept for the appearance 
 of red spider, which should be washed o£E with a sponge and 
 soapy water to prevent it spreading. Syringing with insecti- 
 cides is now unsuitable, and even rain-water, from having 
 
172 FRriT. 
 
 been in contact with houses and dirty tanks, cannot be used 
 without leaving marks on the berries. The safe course is to 
 examine the leaves carefully previous to the fruit colouring. 
 If they are quite clear of red spider, little danger may be 
 apprehended from it aftemards. Thrips are also injurious to 
 the vine. They attack and weaken the leaves and disfigure 
 the berries, but are far more easily removed than spider. 
 Fumigating two or three times on alternate evenings will 
 sufBce to kill or keep them in check. 
 
 AU the light possible should be admitted to Muscats and 
 tl lick-skinned grapes when they are colouring, by putting the 
 leave.s aside, taking care that the direct rays of the mid-day 
 .sun do not strike on the berries, as it is apt to discolour them. 
 The condensation of moisture on the berries must also be pre- 
 vented by keeping the pipes moderately warm at night and 
 increasing the ventilation in the morning before the tempera- 
 ture rises. Although the atmosphere of the house may appear 
 to be perfectly dry, there is always more or less moisture in it, 
 which heats sooner than the berries, and a deposition of dew 
 immediately takes place on the cooler surface, which soon eva- 
 porates and leaves a mark on the bloom. 
 
 Beside the effects of the pests already enumerated, grapes 
 are liable to suffer from attacks of mildew, rust, scalding, and 
 other complaints, which disfigure their appearance and reduce 
 their competitive value. 
 
 Mildew is an insidious disea.se, and its presence is some- 
 times not easily accounted for. Certain atmospheric influences 
 accelerate its progress, such as a damp, close, sultry air, while 
 even extreme dryness favours its spi'ead. Its appearance on 
 the leaves resembles specks of pale grey powder, and it is 
 sometimes found on the berries when the leaves are healthy 
 and clean. When first observed, flowers of sulphur should at 
 once be applied with an elastic puff, and if the berries are kept 
 dry, the sulphur can be blown clean off them. 
 
 Piust is produced by injury to the cuticle of the berry 
 whilst young and tender. Its appearance is attributed to 
 various cau.ses, such as the application of sulphur to hot-water 
 pipes, the handling of the berries while thinning, a cold cur- 
 
FKl'IT, 173 
 
 rent of air, and an over-moist atmosphere ; but whether any 
 of these be a cause of it or not, they should be all carefully 
 watched, and as much as possible avoided. 
 
 Scalding is an injury to the berry at a more advanced stage 
 of its growth. The main cause of it is an unnatural condition 
 of the air through the want of a free circulation. Too high u 
 temperature in the morning before ventilation is given, and 
 too early closing with much heat in the afternoon, are fertile 
 sources of it, and must be strictly guarded against. 
 
 Shanking is a disease affecting the foot-stalks of the berrj'. 
 It appears in two forms and at different periods ; first about 
 the time of stoning, when a dark line may be observed moving 
 along the centre of the stem or foot-stalk in the direction of 
 the fruit, soon after which the berry begins to shrivel. The 
 second begins about the time of colouring by a dark ring en- 
 circling the foot-stalk, which ultimately turns black through- 
 out. Instead of the berries shrivelling, as in the other case, 
 they retain their plumpness for a considerable time, although 
 quite useless. Muscat of Alexandria is most subject to the 
 first form of disease, while the second attacks the Black Ham- 
 burgh and other varieties. Defective root-action is probably 
 the origin of the first, and the second may be ascribed gene- 
 rally to a want of vital energy in the plant, possibly from lack 
 of nourishment, or the weight of the crop being greater than 
 the plant can sustain. In well-managed vineries this disease 
 rarely occurs. 
 
 Shrivelling is a natural condition of all grapes if allowed 
 to hang long enough, but when it appears prematurely it is 
 obvious something is wi-ong. Early shrinking of the berries 
 chiefly arises from the imperfect condition of the saccharine 
 matter, resulting probably from the adverse circumstances 
 under which the fluids have been assimilated in the leaves, and 
 thence secreted in the berries. A dry warm atmosphere, or 
 any check to leaf and root action, is productive of shrivelling. 
 
 It is imperative that every precaution be taken to preserve 
 the grapes from the attacks of insects and all diseases which 
 blemish and spoil their appearance, so that they may be staged 
 without a speck and in the highest state of perfection. 
 
174 FRUIT. 
 
 We have explained briefly the principal operations and 
 matters of importance to be observed in the cultivation of the 
 vine during the first three years of its growth, and refer the 
 inquirer after fuller details to Mr. A. P. Barron's " Vines and 
 Vine Culture," the best treatise extant on the subject. 
 
 A few hints on preparing the grapes for exhibition may be 
 useful to the beginner. The first thing to determine is the 
 stand on which the grapes are to be exhibited, and Horticul- 
 tural Societies should insist on these being of a uniform slope 
 and dimensions. The irregularity and untidy appearance of 
 so many different forms and sizes as are frequently seen at 
 exhibitions detracts greatly from the pleasing effect of the 
 display, and even a good bunch set on a badly constructed 
 stand is shown at a great disadvantage. A convenient size, 
 with a slope to show off the fruit effectively, should be 
 adopted at all exhibitions. The following are good average 
 dimensions : — Height at back of sloping board, 12 inches ; 
 breadth of slope, 16 inches ; and length of stand 9 inches 
 for each bunch it has to carry, but the length may vary 
 according to the size of the bunches. The back or upright 
 board should lise 2-1- inches above the junction with the 
 sloping board, making it 14^- inches high. The ends should 
 be filled in with brackets to keep the whole firm. The top 
 of ,the stand should be covered with plain white paper neatly 
 pasted down, but with no ribbons or brass nails used in the 
 way of adornment, which are out of place and unnecessary. 
 
 The bunches should be cut with a piece of the shoot attached, 
 and great care must be exercised in handling them, so as 
 to pi-eserve the bloom without the slightest rub or injury. 
 Examine the bunch closely, and place the best side upper- 
 most, fastening it securely at the top, and also near the bottom 
 with narrow tape carefully passed between the berries and 
 through two small holes in the board, to be firmly tied behind. 
 Neat handling by the operator is necessary to avoid rubbing 
 the berries, and to have the bunch held perfectly firm and 
 secure on the board, so that it cannot roll in the least during 
 the joggling of a long journey by road or rail. After the 
 bunches are securely fixed on the stands they should be placed 
 
FEUIT. 175 
 
 in a strongly constructed box, specially prepared for their safe 
 transit to the exhibition, and in which they can be set expedi- 
 tiously and securely. A good size for such a box, which two 
 men can easil}' carry, and to hold eight bunches on their stands 
 in two rows, with the back of the stands to the sides, is 
 36 inches long, 15 inches deep, and about 30 inches wide, all 
 inside measures. It should be fitted inside with slips and 
 grooves, between which to set and fasten the stands quickly 
 and securely. The box should be provided with strong handles 
 for carrying it, and with a proper lock and duplicate keys. 
 
 The points of merit in grapes are : (1.) Size and form qf 
 bunch; (2.) flavour, size, and quality of the berries; and 
 (3.) colour and bloom. A model bunch of Muscat of Alexan- 
 dria may be described as follows: — Length, from 12 to 15 
 inches ; breadth at widest part of shoulders, two-thirds of the 
 length, and tapering regularly to the point ; berries large, 
 even in size, not squeezed, but so closely set that the bunch 
 retains its perfect shape when laid on the stand ; of a clear 
 amber colour, with a perfect bloom, and free from all blemishes. 
 This description applies generally to all other grapes, making 
 due allowance for their natural variations. 
 
 THE MELON. 
 
 The Melon is said to be a native of the moist parts of the 
 low valleys lying to the south of the Caucasus and the Caspian 
 Sea in Asia, where it flourishes with great luxuriance. From 
 thence it has spread through cultivation to all parts of the 
 world with a tropical oi' semi-tropical climate. Wherever 
 there is sufficient summer heat to bring the Melon to maturity 
 it thrives well and is cultivated with success, even although 
 the winters may be far more rigorous than in Britain, where, 
 to be successful, it has to be grown in a hothouse. It has been 
 cultivated for its fruit in this country since about 1570, but 
 it is only within the present century that it has reached its 
 highest state of perfection, and become so popular among us 
 as a dessert fruit. The demand for it is now so large that it 
 far exceeds the supply raised at home, and it is imported in 
 
176 FRUIT. 
 
 great quantities from wanner countries, where it is cheaply- 
 grown in the open air. Like the Pine-apple, however, the 
 Melons grown in our hothouses much excel the impoi-ted fruit 
 in richness and high quality. 
 
 As an exhibition fruit the Melon is highly esteemed, and 
 a well-grown specimen, in perfect condition, is a strong point 
 in a collection. It forms a handsome dish, and is a good 
 counterpart to the Pine-apple. Almost every competitor has 
 a favourite variety, which he cultivates with much diligence 
 and success ; and so much depends on the careful attention 
 paid to the saving of the seed, that a grower for competition 
 is, as a rule, better to save his own. Among the popular 
 varieties which have acquired a reputation for the exhibitor's 
 purpose are the following : — 
 
 Green-fleshed Varieties. — Eastnor Castle, La Favorite, Longleat Pei- 
 
 fectioD, and William Tillery. 
 i^carlet-fleshed. — Benhani Beauty, Hero of Bath, Read's Scarlet,and 
 
 Sion House. 
 White-fleshed. — Colston Bassett, Hero of Lockinge, Lord Strathmore's 
 
 Favourite, and The Countess. 
 
 For the cultivation of the Melon to the highest state of per- 
 fection in this country, it must be grown in a glass-house 
 eiBciently heated by hot water. The best form of house is 
 a low lean-to or a half-span, facing south, so that it may receive 
 all the light and sunshine possible in our variable climate, 
 as without these two important elements the Melon is seldom 
 superior to a common gourd. The heating apparatus must be 
 able to suppljr an abundance of top and bottom heat, as may 
 be required by the Melons in all conditions of the weather. A 
 brick bed about 2 feet wide and 18 inches deep, well-drained, 
 and with a flow and return bottom-heat pipes beneath it, 
 should be formed along the front of the house, and as near to 
 the roof as is convenient for attending to and training the 
 plants to the wires, which should be fixed about 15 inches 
 from the glass, about 10 inches apart, and kept tight by 
 screwed bolts and nuts. 
 
 The Melon delights in a strong mellovc loam, of a calcareous 
 nature, and enriched with decomposed vegetable matter. A 
 
FEUIT. 177 
 
 compost of strong fibry loam with a third of well-decomposed 
 leaf-mould and a sprinkling of old lime rubbish, all well mixed 
 and packed rather firm in the bed, grows it well. For early 
 exhibitions, in May or June, the seed must be sown in 
 January and February in the same compost, putting a seed 
 in a three-inch pot, or planting them two inches apart in pans, 
 covering the seed with a pinch of sharp sand, and setting the 
 pots or pans in strong bottom-heat till the seeds vegetate. 
 As soon as they are fairly above ground they should be placed 
 close to the glass to keep them sturdy, and care must be taken 
 to shade them from the sun. When they have made the first 
 leaf, they should be re-potted or potted singly into five-inch 
 pots, using the compost in a warm mellow state, and being 
 careful not to bruise the stem of the plant while firming the 
 soil. Every precaution must be taken not to bend or bruise 
 the stem when it is young and tender, as it renders the plant 
 more liable to disease or canker. Grow then in plenty of 
 heat near the glass, and give air on all favourable occasions 
 to keep the plants healthy, vigorous, and sturdy. The plants 
 will be ready for planting oirt in the bed in about six weeks 
 from the time when they were sown. The bed should be 
 made up a few days beforehand, to warm the soil to the desired 
 temperature, about 75°. In planting, set the plants about two 
 feet apart, and place the earth firm around the balls, which 
 should not be covered, but just level with the surface of the 
 bed. Carefully train the plant up the wires till it has reached 
 within a foot of the top, when it should be stopped, and the 
 fruit-bearing laterals will soon push forth along its entire 
 length. The laterals should be all stopped at the second or 
 third leaf; and as soon as the female flowers expand, they 
 must be gone over daily about one o'clock, and "set" or 
 impregnated, by picking off a male flower charged with pollen 
 and placing it on the stigma of the female flower or fruit. As 
 soon as four fruits are set on a plant and swelling freely, no 
 more need be set, and any more swelling should be removed. 
 For exhibition specimens, two to four fruits on a plant are as 
 many as it can bring to perfection. From the beginning water 
 must be cai'efully applied, and a moist temperature kept up of 
 
178 FEUIT. 
 
 about 70' at night, rising to 80° during the day, and to 90° 
 with sun-heat, and plenty of air ; shading when necessary to 
 prevent flagging and scorching, but giving all the light the 
 plants can bear, especially as the crop nears maturity. If 
 the plants are* maintained in a healthy, vigorous state, insects 
 are not troublesome, but if red spider appear, it should be at 
 once attacked with the syringe or the leaves carefully sponged, 
 so as to keep it in check. As the fruit begins to ripen, the 
 water must be gradually withheld, and all the light and air 
 given that is possible while the high temperature is main- 
 tained, and by this means a rich flavour and fine quality is 
 secured. Melons are quite amenable to the stimulating influ- 
 ences of liquid manure, but it must be cautiously applied, so 
 as not to induce rank growth, deteriorating the quality of the 
 fruit, and often ending in disease. Before the fruit is half 
 swelled, each should be supported on a piece of small-meshed 
 galvanised wire-netting about six inches square, and slung by 
 strings from, the trellis at such a distance as the fruit may lie 
 on its side and have perfect freedom to swell to its full size. 
 Cracking of the fruit is the result of careless watering, and 
 under proper management need not be apprehended. Should 
 the fruit ripen too early for the show, it may be cut as soon 
 as it reaches maturity, but not over-ripe, and hung up in a 
 net in a drv cool room, where it will keep sound and good for 
 a fortnight or more with scarcely any loss of flavour. To 
 have a Melon at its best for flavour on the day of the show, 
 it should be quite ripe and cut two or three days previously, 
 and placed in the warmest spot in the house in the full blaze 
 of the sun till it is wanted. Later in the season, for exhibit- 
 ing at shows held from July to September, the Melon requires 
 exactly the same treatment, but it takes less time in summer 
 to reach maturity, about three months suflacing from the time 
 the seed is sown until, under good management, the fruit is 
 ripe and fit for exhibition. 
 
 The chief points in a Melon are ; (1.) Shape, which should 
 be handsome, smooth, and globular, and the netted varieties 
 regularly marked ; (2.) size, which should not be less than 
 18 inches in circumference; and (3.) the flesh thick, tender, 
 
FRUIT. 179 
 
 sweet, juicy, and melting, with a rich, luscious flavour, a pleas- 
 ing aroma, and a thin skin. 
 
 THE XECTAEINE. 
 
 This is a very distinct and beautifully coloured section of 
 the Peach tribe, Amygdalus persica, the piquantly refreshing, 
 rich juicy flesh of which is preferred by some palates to that 
 of the more luscious typical section. As an exhibition fruit, 
 the Nectarine ranks next after the Peach. For that purpose 
 the following are among the best, arranged in the order in 
 which they usually ripen : — Lord Napier, Elruge, Pitmaston 
 Orange, Pine- Apple, Humboldt, and Spencer. The cultivation 
 of the Nectarine is the same in all respects as that of the 
 Peach, for details of which see the article on that fruit. 
 
 The points of merit in a dish of Nectarines are : (1.) The 
 fruits should be large, equal in size, smooth, and symmetrical ; 
 (2.) ripe and sound, with a rich juicy flesh of a brisk vinous 
 flavour, and parting freely from the stone, which should be 
 small ; and (3.) the colour should be bright and fresh, dark red 
 next the sun, and orange or yellowish green in the shade. 
 
 THE OEAA^GE. 
 There are several species of the genus Citrus cultivated as 
 oranges, the origin of which is lost in antiquity; but from the 
 earliest ages of which there is any record, they appear to 
 have been grown and used as food by the natives of Eastern 
 countries from Asia 3Iinor to Japan. At the present time it 
 it is extensively cultivated for commercial purposes in the 
 southern countries of Europe, the Madeira Islands, Florida, 
 and Southern California, besides many other places of less 
 fame as orange-growing centres. Its cultivation in this 
 country as a dessert fruit has never attained any amount of 
 popularity, or received anything like the attention from horti- 
 culturists which its excellence under proper treatment deserves. 
 To any one who has tasted the delicious richness of flavour of 
 a perfectly ripe and full-grown orange, fresh gathered from 
 the tree, grown in a suitable hothouse, it is a marvel in those 
 days of cheap glass and advanced cultural skill why the Orange 
 
180 FRUIT. 
 
 is not cultivated with success in the gardens of the wealthy, 
 where it might well fill a place among less delicious fruits, 
 which are often cultivated at much more cost than it takes to 
 grow fine crops of first-rate oranges. 
 
 As an exhibition fruit, the ordinary produce of our hot- 
 houses has seldom been such as to recommend it for a high 
 award ; but with suitable accommodation and proper treat- 
 ment, specimens can be easily grown to rank alongside of the 
 best peaches, figs, or melons, if not to equal the grape itself. 
 The best varieties for the purpose, so far at least as the nume- 
 rous fine kinds grown abroad have been tested by cultivation in 
 Britain, are the Maltese Blood, Mandarin, St. Michael's, and 
 Tangerine Oranges. Where these varieties can be grown in 
 a properly constructed orangery — very unKke the old-fashioned 
 dungeon called an " Orangery ' — they amply repay with abun- 
 dance of luscious fruit the cost and skill bestowed on them. 
 They thrive to perfection in a rich marly turfy loam, in which 
 apples grow with the greatest success. In preference, the trees 
 should be planted in a well-drained border, made of such soil, 
 with the addition of a free sprinkling of half-inch bones. In 
 their treatment, they require much the same temperature and 
 management as the peach when forced ; but being evergreens, 
 even more care is necessary to guard against the inroads of 
 noxious insects, which are their greatest pest, and diffictilt to 
 eradicate when once they get a footing among the evergreen 
 foliage and branches. With that exception, they are much 
 easier managed than most forced fruits, and require nothing 
 but average attention to heat, air, moisture, thinning of fruit, 
 watering, and manuring. When the}' are swelling a crop of 
 fruit, they are much benefited by a judicious supply of clear 
 liquid manure. They require very little pruning or training, 
 merely sufficient to keep them in shape, with the branches 
 wide enough apart to allow a free play of light and air around 
 the ripening fruit and the blossom of the succeeding crop, 
 which are usually both upon the tree at the same time. The 
 culture of the Orange in pots is exactly similar, and with 
 liberal treatment they produce fine crops of beautiful fruit. 
 The Orange thrives be.'?t when not over-potted ; but the 
 
FRUIT. 181 
 
 drainage must be ample, to allow of copious supplies of liquid 
 manure, as well as of clear water, at the seasons when they 
 are required. The plants must never be allowed to become 
 dry, but careful watering is necessary in winter to avoid sour- 
 ing the soil. At starting in spring, a mild bottom-heat to the 
 plants in pots is beneficial. Their points of merit are: (1.) 
 Size; (2.) flavour and juiciness; and (3.) colour and thinness 
 of skin. 
 
 THE PEACH. 
 
 This delicious fruit has been cultivated in Oriental countries 
 from time immemorial, and was generally considered to be a 
 native of Persia; but De Candolle, on what appears to be 
 irrefragable evidence, traces its origin to China, where it is 
 mentioned by Confucius as early as the fifth century before 
 the Christian era. It is now cultivated with success in most 
 of the wai-mer parts of the temperate zones, and especially in 
 the United States of America, in some parts of which it forms 
 a staple industry, and grows with great luxuriance and fruit- 
 fulness under the rudest methods of cultivation. In Britain, 
 however, it must be grown under glass with proper heating 
 appliances, so as to command the greatest success and certainty 
 of a crop. In some favoured spots it m.ay be grown with 
 tolerable success on open walls, where it generally attains a 
 high flavour, although usually lacking some important point 
 deemed necessary in first-rate exhibition fruit 
 
 The Peach and Nectarine are merely varieties of the same 
 plant, Amygdcdus persica, but they differ so markedly in their 
 appearance and flavour that separate classes are always as- 
 signed to them at horticultural exhibitions ; therefore the}' are 
 treated separately here, although their culture and manage- 
 ment are precisely similar. Among the best varieties for 
 exhibition are Hale's Early, Royal George, Stirling Castle, 
 Dymond, Noblesse, and Sea Eagle. A similar house to that 
 recommended for the vine, with heating power according to 
 what is wanted, grows peaches to perfection. If the trees are 
 well established in good soil, no preparation of a special natui-e 
 is necessary, as well-managed old trees in vigorous health will 
 
182 FRUIT. 
 
 produce quite as fine fruit as the best of young trees. Should 
 it be necessary, however, to plant young trees in a fresh 
 border, care should be taken to select the best varieties worked 
 on proper stocks, to avoid failure in bearing by some varieties, 
 and they should be properly planted in a border made of a 
 sound, medium, turfy loam of a calcareous nature, taking care 
 to have the border well drained. If the loam is rather light, 
 it will be improved by an addition of marl or clay, and if defi- 
 cient in calcareous matter, lime rubbish or similar material may 
 be added with advantage. Rich borders, causing rank growth, 
 are quite unsuitable, and ought to be avoided if the greatest 
 success is desired. 
 
 For the earlier shows in May and June it is necessary to 
 start the Peaches at the beginning of the year, later houses 
 taking up the succession for July and August, and cool houses 
 furnishing Peaches for exhibitions in the autumn. The earliest 
 house should be stai'ted in the first week of Januarj' to secure 
 Peaches by the middle or end of May j and at first the night 
 temperature should not exceed -id", rising to 60° at mid-day, 
 with plenty of air on. The trees should be well syringed 
 morning and evening, and a moist healthy growing atmosphere 
 maintained. As the trees come into flower the syringing 
 should be suspended, and a drier air maintained till the crop 
 is set; but a parching heat must be avoided, as it will cer- 
 tainly bring on an attack of red spider, one of the worst foes 
 to the culture of the Peach in hothouses. A daily use of the 
 camel's-hair brush, about one o'clock when the flowers are dry, 
 helps much to secure a free set of early peaches. 
 
 To assist the trees in setting a good ci'op of fruit, strip the 
 flower-buds from the under-side of the shoots, and keep up 
 a free circulation of dry air when the flowers are expanded. 
 When the crop is well set, disbudding should be gradually per- 
 formed, to prevent crowding and to seciu'e bearing wood for 
 the following year. Remove all shoots not required, except 
 those starting from the base of the fruit, which should be 
 pinched. Thin the fruit when it attains the size of peas to 
 about double the number to be eventually left to ripen, which 
 should be in the best position for the sun to colour and flavour 
 
FRUIT. 183 
 
 them properly. The cropping of peaches by calculating so 
 many to the square yard is not a good method to recommend 
 when the circumstances are so varied and strength of trees so 
 difficult to define. Young vigorous trees are the better to be 
 rather heavily cropped, while old trees of moderate growth 
 would be injured by a similar number per square yard. It 
 should be remembered that one good-sized peach is better for 
 any purpose than two small ones, but more especially for exhi- 
 bition. After the final thinning has been completed, the roots 
 should be watered if dry, and a good mulching of rich manure 
 given to assist in feeding and keeping the surface soil sweet 
 and moist. Syringing should be done in the morning, and 
 early enough in the afternoon to allow the foliage to get dry 
 before night ; and if aphides are troublesome, the ordinary solu- 
 tion of soap and paraiEn should be applied. When the fruit 
 begins to swell, the roots should be supplied with liquid manure 
 from drainings of the farmyard, and some of the best artificial 
 manures for fruit-trees. This should be carried on as it is 
 required till the approach of maturity, when syringing should 
 cease, and water be withheld as far as possible with safety to 
 the crop and trees. 
 
 The cultivation of Peaches and Nectarines on the open wall 
 is exactly similar, although trees on walls are not generally 
 so well attended to as those in houses. The crops on open 
 walls are very precarious, and cannot be relied upon, even 
 under the most favourable circumstances of season and climate. 
 Early varieties are more easily cultivated with success than 
 late ones. They should be planted on a south wall, kept well 
 thinned out, and the young shoots trained close to the wall as 
 they grow. The thorough ripening of the wood and the protec- 
 tion of the blossom in spring are the chief factors to success 
 in the culture of the Peach and Nectarine in the open air. 
 
 The fruit should be carefully handled in gathering it, be- 
 cause undue pressure on any part causes a blemish to appear 
 in a very short time. Shallow boxes to contain a single 
 layer should be used for packing them for exhibition, and 
 each fruit, wrapped first in tissue-paper and then in a small 
 square of cotton- wool, and placed side by side among soft paper 
 
184 FEUIT. 
 
 shavings, or any other suitable material, covering and making 
 all secure with the same. 
 
 After the fruit is gathered, and to secure a good crop the 
 following year, the shoots not required to bear fruit should be 
 cut clean out, and all laterals from the current year's growth 
 cut back to one eye. Syringe the trees to keep them clear of 
 insects, water the roots, and attend to the ventilation in order 
 to secure perfectly ripened wood. 
 
 The points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) luscious flavour; 
 and (.3.) colour. 
 
 THE PEAIi. 
 
 The Pear is a native of Britain and other parts of Europe 
 and Asia within the temperate zone. It is said to have been 
 widely cultivated by the Greeks and Eomans more than three 
 thousand years ago. The warm districts of France seem to suit 
 the finer varieties to perfection, while the more hardy kinds 
 produce splendid crops of fine fruit in many districts of Scot- 
 land. It is also one of the most accommodating of fruits, as 
 by a careful selection of varieties an excellent supply can be 
 provided during two-thirds of the year. 
 
 Among the best pears grown without the aid of glass for 
 exhibiting in a ripe state in the autumn are Beurre d'Amanlis, 
 Fondante d'Automne, Jargonelle, Madame Treyve, Souvenir du 
 Congres, and \Yilliams' Bon Chretien ; and of the later dessert 
 varieties to be exhibited, "ripe or unripe," the following are 
 excellent : — Bergamotte Esperen, Beurre d'Aremberg, B. 
 Bachelier, B. Bosc, B. Clairgeau, B. Diel, B. Piance, and B. 
 Superfin, Doyenne du Cornice, Duchesse d'Angouleme, Easter 
 Beurre, EmUe d'Heyst, Glou Morceau, Hacon's Incomparable, 
 Josephine de Malines, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, 
 Xe Plus Meuris, OHvier de Serres, Passe Colmar, Pitmaston 
 Duchesse, Thompson's, and Winter Xelis. The best culinary 
 pears for exhibition are Bellissime d'Hiver, Black Worcester, 
 CatUlac, Uvedale's St. Germain, A^erulam, and Vicar of Wink- 
 field. The finest variety for competition in each of these three 
 sections, taking all points into consideration, is probably Jar- 
 gonelle, Marie Louise, and Catillac. 
 
FHUIT. 185 
 
 A deep loamy soil suits the Peai- ; therefore, if the natural soil 
 is unsuitable, it should be taken out, two to three feet deep and 
 four feet from the wall, filling up with turfy loam of a medium 
 texture. The trees should be planted in October, four feet 
 apart, to be trained as upright cordons ; and if the soil be 
 dry, the roots should be watered and mulched. At the winter 
 pruning the two strongest shoots should be reserved, cut back 
 to 18 inches in length, and trained horizontally, leaving one 
 bud six inches from the base, and another at the end of each 
 shoot. These in time will form the four leading shoots, to be 
 trained upright about a foot apart. The advantages from this 
 method are, many varieties in small space, furnishing a large 
 quantity of fruit in a short time, and the restriction of the 
 roots enables the cultivator to water and nourish the trees 
 more easily when it is required. By carefully pinching the 
 young shoots in summer when two or three inches long, many 
 spurs and fruit-buds will be formed, which in a few years will 
 bear a heavy crop of fruit. When the fruit is swelling, it 
 should be fully exposed to the sun, and the roots receive a 
 liberal svipply of liquid manure, and be top-dressed to bring 
 the fruit to perfection. 
 
 The cultivation of many of the late varieties of pears, 
 
 except during exceptionally fine seasons, is not attended with 
 
 great success in cold districts : therefore an orchard-house, or 
 
 any suitable glass structure, should be provided for them. The)' 
 
 can be grown to a fine size in pots in an orchard-house, vinery, 
 
 or peach-house, if not too much shaded by the overhead foliage. 
 
 In order to have Beurre Diel, Marie Louise, Pitmaston Duchesse, 
 
 or any of the late varieties ripe for autumn shows, they must be 
 
 grown in heat. A vinery or early peach-house is suitable for 
 
 theii- culture when grown in pots. Bush-trees of a suitable 
 
 size, on the Quince stock, should be lifted from the open 
 
 ground in early spring, root-pruned, and potted in 12 -inch 
 
 pots, using sound turfy loam and crushed bones. Place them 
 
 in a light airy position in a peach or orchard house, and after 
 
 the growth has been made, put them outside against a south 
 
 wall, where they will get thoroughly ripened. During winter 
 
 set them in a cool house, and start them with the first vinery 
 
186 FEUIT. 
 
 in Januai-y. When they come into flower, they should be 
 removed to a more airy house to set, as they will not do so 
 readily in a moist atmosphere. When set, place them again 
 in the vinery where the full light reaches them, and top-dress 
 with rich soil, bone-meal, or any good artificial manure. When 
 the fruit is growing freely, weak liquid manure should be given 
 at every watering. By this treatment pears of a very large 
 size and fine flavour can be grown and ripened in the same 
 temperature as the vines. 
 
 Old-established trees on high walls, by careful management, 
 may be put into condition to bear fine exhibition fruit, although 
 they have for years been neglected. If the spurs be long, they 
 should be gradually cut close in, extending the operation over 
 three or four j'ears, when some of the new spurs will begin to 
 bear. Or by cutting out some of the old bi'anches every year, 
 and leading in young shoots, the whole tree can be renewed 
 in a few years. Then by removing some of the soil above the 
 roots, and working in fresh turf and bone-meal, and by mulch- 
 ing and feeding, excellent crops of fine fruit will result. The 
 points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; (3.) shape. In 
 culinary varieties : (1.) Size; (2.) quality. 
 
 THE PIXE-APPLE. 
 
 This is the handsomest as well as the most delicious of all 
 the fruits produced in the greatest perfection, by the skill of 
 the horticulturist, with the aid of modern appliances. It 
 stands at the head of exhibition fruits, a position which its 
 noble appearance, luscious mellow flavour, and rich perfume 
 justly merits, and to the competitor it is an invaluable acquisi- 
 tion in a collection of the best dessert fruits. Although its 
 cultivation has rather declined than increased during the past 
 quarter of a century, it is still considered indispensable in all 
 well-ordered garden establishments. The erroneous and alto- 
 gether costly methods of culture formerly in vogue, and even 
 yet not quite extinct, account in a great measure for the 
 falling off in the numbers grown of this princely, wholesome, 
 and useful fruit. When a more rational system of culture is 
 
FRUIT. 187 
 
 generally adopted, and the cost of production reduced thei-eby 
 to the same amount, or less, than that of other hothovise forced 
 fruits, it will again become popular, and appear in every 
 private garden with any pretension to ef&ciency and com- 
 pleteness. 
 
 The Pine- Apple is stated to be a native of the tropical parts 
 of South America, but it has been so long introduced to the 
 East and West Indies that it may be considered quite natura- 
 lised in them, and thrives in both with great luxuriance and 
 fertility. In fact, it has now come to be looked upon as one 
 of the staple fruit products of the West Indies, and, along 
 with the Banana, forms the principal item in their rapidly 
 increasing fruit export trade, from which much prosperity is 
 anticipated in the future of those fertile islands. It was first 
 introduced to Britain about 1690, but it was not till the year 
 1712 that we hear of it being grown for its fruit, about which 
 time it was successfully fruited by Henry Telende, gardener 
 to Sir Matthew Decker, at Richmond, Surrey. About twenty 
 years earlier, Mi\ Rose, the royal gardener, is represented in 
 a well-known picture in the act of presenting a Pine-Apple 
 to Charles II. as the first grown in England ; but no other 
 record has been found as to how, when, or where it was pro- 
 duced. In the 'British Gardener's Dictionary,'' 1714, it is 
 stated by James Justice that he erected in 1732 a pine-stove 
 at Crichton, near Dalkeith, Midlothian, in which the Pine- 
 Apple was fruited for the first time in Scotland. From that 
 period to the present time it has been cultivated with the 
 greatest skill and assiduity, and, with the help of improved 
 appliances, it has been brought to such a high state of per- 
 fection as to rival the very finest j^roduce of tropical countries, 
 and to excel it in the important points of size and flavour in 
 the finest .specimens and best kinds. 
 
 Most kinds of Pine- Apples are, when well grown, suitable 
 for exhibition, but at the present time exhibitors confine their 
 selection to a few popular varieties. Among these, the Smooth 
 Cayenne holds the leading place as an exhibition fruit, chiefly 
 because of the ease and certainty with which it can be pro- 
 duced at all seasons of the year, and that, added to its fine 
 
188 FRUIT. 
 
 size, handsome appearance, and excellent quality, makes it a 
 favourite with all growers for competition. Next in popular 
 favour is the Queen, which, when well grown and in its best 
 condition, is a first-class fruit of the finest flavour and quality. 
 After these a number of varieties are held in much the same 
 esteem by competitors. For quality and richness of flavour, 
 Black Jamaica still stands unrivalled ; but as it seldom exceeds 
 three pounds in weight in well-grown fruits, with neat small 
 crowns, it is liable to be passed as undersized when exhibited 
 in competition with large and well-finished specimens of other 
 kinds of fair quality. One of the best of those latter is Char- 
 lotte Rothschild, a fruit very similar in all respects to the 
 Smooth Cayenne, except that it has spines on the edges of its 
 leaves, and on their merits the Smooth Cayenne is the most 
 useful. Among othei's seen most frequently at exhibitions 
 are Black Prince and Lord Carrington, two easily grown and 
 fertile varieties, the first being a very tali conical fruit, re- 
 quiring a high temperature and bright sunshine to ripen it all 
 at the same time. Lord Carrington is also a conical fruit, and 
 when at its best it makes a handsome specimen, although 
 neither it nor Black Prince are to be compared in fine qualities 
 to the four previously named varieties. When size alone is the 
 desired object, a fully developed Providence Pine generally 
 beats all competitors, and for this purpose it must be grown 
 with the greatest possible vigour on a thoroughly matured 
 plant to produce a fruit of the largest size and finest build. 
 It takes two years or more to grow a proper plant that can be 
 relied upon to give a fine fruit, anil it must be carefully tended 
 throughout to ensure success. Beyond its gigantic propor- 
 tions the Providence has very little to recommend it, even at 
 its best. 
 
 In the culture of the Pine-Apple a comparatively small 
 amount of labour and attention is required, so long as they are 
 civen at the proper time, and all appliances are suitable and 
 adequate. A hip-roofed house makes the best pine-stove, so 
 constructed that the plants are close to the glass when full 
 crown. The heating appliances must be ample for the work, 
 to supply with ease the top and bottom heat in all states of 
 
 & 
 
FEUIT. 189 
 
 the weather. The Pine is now generally grown in pots, and 
 for all practical purposes it is undoubtedly the best system 
 when properly carried out ; but some very successful growers 
 in bygone times preferred to grow them planted out in beds 
 specially made up for the purpose, believing that they obtained 
 larger fruit than from plants grown in pots. With more expe- 
 rience, there is good reason to doubt the supposed advantages 
 of the planted-out over the pot-grown plants, all things being 
 equal ; but as soil and culture apply equally to both systems, 
 growers may choose the method which suits them best. 
 
 In planting them out, strong well-rooted succession plant.** 
 should be inserted in prepared beds of sound mellow loam, of 
 a light or medium texture, with a free sprinkling of finely 
 broken -up dry cow, sheep, deer, or pigeon dung — all are suit- 
 able in a dry state — soot, and bone-meal, making the soil quite 
 firm around the plants. If the soil is in a proper state, no 
 water will be required till the plants begin to push out fresh 
 roots, when the soil will be in a condition to receive a thorough 
 soaking, and no more should be given until the plants show to 
 an experienced eye that they require it. If deluged unneces- 
 sarily with water, the soil sours and the plants grow soft and 
 flabby in the leaves, and are difficult to get to show fruit, 
 which is usually deficient in both size and quality. In conse- 
 quence, liquid manure and rich top-dressings have to be used 
 with the greatest caution ; but a judicious application of these 
 when the fruit is swelling is advantageous. 
 
 In pot-culture, which, with modern appliances, is the best 
 for producing first-class fruit all the year round, similar soil 
 is used, potting moderately firm, but not ramming it so " hard 
 as pavement," as practised by some with no good result. For 
 fruiting the Black Jamaica, Queen, and other varieties of 
 moderate growth, 10 to 11 -inch pots are quite sufficient for 
 growing the largest plants to produce the finest fruits. For 
 Smooth Cayenne, Charlotte Rothschild, and the like, 12 to 13- 
 inch pots are ample ; and even for the strongest growers, such 
 as Black Prince and Providence, 13-inch pots, with proper 
 attention, will produce finer fruit within a given time than 
 pots of several sizes larger. All pots require to be well drained, 
 
190 FEUIT. 
 
 and the drainage covered with moss or similar material, to 
 keep the soil out of it, as nothing is so detrimental to success 
 as stagnant moisture at the root of a pine plant. To com- 
 mence with, it is necessary to secure strong healthy suckers, 
 and from these first-class exhibition fruit may be had in about 
 eighteen months from the time they are inserted in the sucker 
 pots. After the fruit is cut, if the suckers are not large 
 enough, they should be allowed to remain on the stool till 
 they are at least 18 inches in length, as, with plenty of water 
 and a growing atmosphere, they will make more growth in one 
 month on the stool than they will in three months in small 
 pots, if they are taken off before they are tolerably firm and 
 beginning to push roots from the base. If room is required, 
 the stools can be removed and set close together in the succes- 
 sion or sucker pit, which suits them admirably. As soon as the 
 suckers are ready they should be carefully removed from plants 
 bearing fruit, by placing the hand near the base and drawing 
 them off with a sharp twist, without injury to the leaves. Then 
 put them into seven-inch pots in the same compost as already 
 described, making it firm around the base of the sucker. Place 
 them in a close pit, with the pots plunged to the rim in tanner's 
 spent bark or fresh leaves, and give no water for a week, or more 
 in dull cold weather, and only shade them from bright sunshine. 
 In about ten days the roots will be pushing freely, when the 
 plants should receive a thorough watering, and the shading 
 be gradually dispensed with. The bottom-heat should range 
 about 85°, with an air temperature of about 70° at night, 
 rising 10° to 15° during the day, with a free circiilation of air 
 whenever the thermometer touches 80°. Pines require all the 
 light and air that can be given them in this country, and 
 thrive best when grown in a dry, clear, warm atmosphere, 
 mellowed with all the fresh air possible, so that the necessary 
 temperature is maintained. 
 
 In about three months, if all has gone on well, the pots 
 will be well filled with roots, and should be liberally treated 
 with clear liquid manure to maintain a vigorous growth till it 
 is convenient to shift them, which should be done within the 
 next six weeks, placing them at once in their fruiting pots, of 
 
FEUIT. 191 
 
 the sizes already mentioned, potting them firmly, and. again 
 plunging them to the rim in a bark bed. With three to four 
 months of the same treatment — a due amount of heat at top 
 and bottom, careful watering, a dry atmosphere, and giving all 
 the light and air possible — the plants will have made fine 
 sturdy growth and filled their pots with roots. They are now 
 ready to be placed in the pine-stove or fruiting-house, and 
 should be top-dressed with a rich compost of turfy loam, bone- 
 meal, soot, and dry animal droppings rubbed down and sifted 
 fine, aU well mixed together and laid about an inch thick on 
 the surface of the soil. Due attention must now be paid to 
 watering, and as the pots are full of active roots, liquid 
 manure should be given, which may be made from sheep, 
 deer, or pigeon dung, soot, and guano, placed in a tub or 
 old barrel filled up with boiling water, well stirred, and 
 then allowed to cool and settle before being used. An occa- 
 casional sprinkling of a good fertiliser on the surface of 
 the soil is also beneficial. The water should always be 
 poured on to the surface of the soil, and not into the axils 
 of the leaves, where it is not required. In about a year after 
 the suckers have been put in, the plants will have attained 
 a fine vigorous stocky size for fruiting, and by withholding 
 water from them for three or four weeks — or about double 
 that period in winter — and then giving them a thorough soak- 
 ing with tepid water and slightly increasing the bottom-heat, 
 they will immediately send up their fruit. The plants must 
 now be regularly watered, but no stimulant given till each 
 plant has done flowering, after which liquid manure or ferti- 
 lisers may be applied at every watering with good results 
 while the fruit is swelling. As the fruit nears maturity and 
 begins to show colour, watering should be discontinued, as a 
 plant in robust health will finish its fruit to perfection and of 
 a brighter colour without farther stimulating. From ten days 
 to a fortnight will ripen and colour a Pine- Apple in bright 
 weather, but it may take a month in dull wintry weather. If 
 a fruit is ripening too soon for the show, it may be cut a few 
 days before it would be quite ripe and hung up in a dry fruit- 
 room, where it will ripen and keep sound for two or three 
 
192 FKUIT. 
 
 weeks without much loss in quality or freshness. The starting 
 of the plants should, however, be so timed as to bring the fruit 
 to full maturity and perfection as near to the date of the show 
 as possible, as a fresh fruit is superior to a stale one. In 
 proper pine-stoves, and under ordinary circumstances, Pines 
 take about four months to reach maturity from the time the 
 fruit appears till it is ripe; in summer a little less, but in 
 winter two or three weeks more. 
 
 From the time the sucker is inserted till the fruit is ripe, 
 the plants must be kept moving steadily, with the roots healthy 
 and more or less active. If the roots become unhealthy from 
 any cause, it seriously interferes with the fertility of the plant 
 and the size and quality of the fruit, and special care must 
 therefore be taken that they are in a good healthy medium, 
 neither too dry nor too wet. When growing freely in spring 
 and summer, a thorough watering once a week keeps them in 
 perfect health. Towards the end of autumn they will not re- 
 quire it so often, and Queen Pines thrive best when they receive 
 no water from October till they are started in December 
 or January for ripe fruit in May and June. Black Jamaica, 
 Smooth Cayenne, and otliers of the same nature require to be 
 kept moister at the roots in winter, and every individual plant 
 must then be closely watched, and water given to it only when 
 it is necessary. By keeping the roots always healthy, the air 
 dry and sweet, and giving all the light, heat, and air possible 
 without causing cold draughts, Pine- Apples can be grown to 
 the highest state of perfection and at the least cost. They are 
 seldom grown specially for exhibition, but a few of the finest 
 young fruits will well repay a little extra attention while they 
 are swelling, when competition is in view. 
 
 It is usual to divide Pines into two or more classes in the 
 prize lists of flower-shows, — the Queen and Smooth Cayenne 
 each having a separate class, a distinction which their merits 
 deserve, in the same manner as the Muscat of Alexandria and 
 Black Hamburgh among grapes. A third class is generally 
 provided for " any other variety," in which the large coarse 
 varieties, such as Black Prince and Providence, frequently 
 appear, to the exclusion of the smaller, but far richer. Black 
 
FRtTIT. 193 
 
 Jamaica, the finest flavoured of all Pines, Charlotte Rothschild, 
 St. Vincent, Ripley, and others of excellent quality. 
 
 The points of merit in a Pine- Apple are : (1.) Size, hand- 
 some shape, and a moderate-sized crown ; (2.) rich flavour, 
 ripe and sound, with flat, well-swelled pips ; and (3.) colour, 
 which should be the same from top to bottom, clear and fresh. 
 
 THE PLUM. 
 
 This is one of the most useful and productive of our hardy 
 fruits, and is more cultivated in this country than any other 
 fruit-tree, the apple alone excepted. It is a native of Asia 
 Minor, but is naturalised in most of the temperate parts of 
 Europe. In Britain it has been cultivated for its fruit for 
 several centuries, and it has followed the spread of civilisa- 
 tion to all the temperate regions of the earth. 
 
 As an exhibition fruit, it fills a prominent place in a collec- 
 tion of hardy kinds, and a first-rate dish of Plums is a strong 
 point in any collection of fruit. In competition, several classes 
 are usually allotted to Plums, each having a well-defined char- 
 acter, such as the following : — 
 
 1. Dessert Plums, Gages, some of the best of which for exhibition 
 
 are : — Brahy's Green Gage, Deoaisne, Green Gage, OulUn's 
 Golden Gage, Reine Claude de Bavay, and Transparent Gage. 
 
 2. Dessert Plums, not Gages ; among the best are : — Coe's Golden 
 
 Drop, Denniston's Superb, Jefferson, Kirke's, Lawson'a Golden, 
 and Washington. 
 
 3. Culinary Plums; among the finest are: — Diamond, ' Goliath, 
 
 Pond's Seedling, Prince Englebert, Victoria, and White Magnum 
 Bonum. 
 
 4. Damson Plums, including all Plums under an inch in diameter, 
 
 such as King and Prune Damsons, Burnet, Mirabelle, Mussel, 
 and Quetche Plums, 
 
 The Plum is easily cultivated, and thrives well in almost 
 any good soil well drained and of a warm nature. It suc- 
 ceeds in the open as a bush or a standard, but for exhibition 
 purposes a wall is necessary to bring the finer varieties to 
 perfection. Fan-training is the mode generally adopted, but 
 where room for large trees is scarce, they may be grown as 
 cordons with considerable success. Old trees should have their 
 
194 FRUIT. 
 
 branches freely thinned out, and young wood laid in at six or 
 eight inches apart, as the best fruit is obtained from well- 
 ripened young wood. The fruit should be well thinned as soon 
 as it can be done with safety ; neglect of which deteriorates 
 the crop and spoils the prospects of another season. Liberal 
 supplies of liquid manure and a sprinkling of some of the 
 best fertilisers should be given in dry weather when the fruit 
 is swelling, so that it may obtain a large size ; and afterwards 
 mulch the ground to preserve the roots, which run near the 
 surface, and are Kable to be injured in dry hot weather. All 
 young wood not required to form the tree should be pinched 
 at the third leaf, and the shoots wanted to fill the space care- 
 fully trained to the wall. When the fi'uit is ripening it should 
 be fuUy exposed to the sun, so that its best qualities may be 
 brought to perfection. 
 
 The points of merit in dessert plums are: (1.) Size; (2.) 
 flavour ; and (3.) colour. The same points of merit apply to 
 the culinary varieties, although flavour is not of so much 
 importance as size, thick flesh, and a small stone. 
 
 THE EASPBEKRY. 
 
 The Raspberry belongs to the genus Ruhus, and is a native 
 of the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. It is very dis- 
 tinct in its habit, fruit, and the duration of its wood. The 
 best of the red varieties are Antwerp, Baumforth's Seedling, 
 Carter's Prolific, Fastolf, Northumberland Fillbasket, and 
 Superlative ; and of the yellow, Antwerp and Magnum Bonum. 
 The Raspberry grows freely in the same soil as the Gooseberry, 
 and enjoys a slight shade from the sun during the hottest part 
 of the day. A position three feet from the north side of a 
 not too high wall suits it well. The ground should be deeply 
 trenched and well manured, and the canes planted three feet 
 apart, placing three together, and afterwards cutting them 
 down to one foot from the ground. By encouraging the 
 growth of strong well-ripened canes, the plants should be 
 established and able to bear good exhibition fruit the third 
 year after planting. The old canes should be cut out in 
 
FRUIT. 195 
 
 autumn, and the young ones tied in bundles of four in the 
 form of an arch, or they may be tied singly to a trellis. The 
 chief points in their culture for exhibition are to keep the canes 
 thin, the surface roots intact, and to feed them liberally. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) Size ; (2.) flavour ; and (3.) colour. 
 
 THE STEAWBEKKY. 
 
 The Strawberry is a fruit that is widely cultivated, highly 
 valued, and unique, in respect that its fine aroma and delicious 
 flavour is appreciated by every one. It belongs to the genus 
 Fragaria, some species of which are indigenous to Britain and 
 Europe, while others are of American origin, which, by cross- 
 ing and recrossing, have given rise to most of the varieties 
 now cultivated. Some of the best kinds for exhibition are 
 Elton Pine, Frogmore Late Pine, James Veitch, Lucas, Pre- 
 sident, and Sir Joseph Paxton. Certain varieties thrive and 
 fruit well in almost any soil, while others refuse even to grow 
 on the same ground ; but as a rule they all succeed tolerably 
 well on a loamy soU of medium character which is retentive 
 of moisture but well drained. The ground should be trenched 
 two feet deep, with plenty of well-decomposed manure incor- 
 porated among it. The best fruit is obtained from two year 
 old plants, but excellent fruit may be gathered the first year 
 after planting when that is done in August, especially if the 
 young plants have been well rooted in small pots, and planted 
 out of them with the balls intact. Three feet is a fair distance 
 to give them between the rows, and 15 inches between the 
 plants. 
 
 Watering the plants in dry weather and keeping the ground 
 clean is all that is needed till early summer, when the runners 
 should be removed as they grow, and the roots supplied with 
 liquid manure after the fruit is set. In order to obtain fruit 
 of the highest colour and flavour, the bunches should be 
 thinned and kept well up among the foliage by means of 
 a small hoop supported on stakes from six to eight inches 
 in height. By this method of giving them all the Kght 
 possible, the most difiicult varieties to colour are brought to 
 
196 fEUIT. 
 
 the highest perfection. In preparing for the second year's 
 crop, which should be the most abundant, the same treatment 
 should be given along with a surface dressing of rich manure, 
 and some good artificial fertilisers to assist in perfecting a 
 heavy crop. Strawberries are largely grown and exhibited 
 by amateurs, who tend them with the greatest care, and watch 
 the development of the fruit with as keen interest as they do 
 the opening flower of the seedling pansy, and no care or 
 trouble is spared to secure a favourable verdict to the object 
 of their choice. 
 
 The forcing of strawberries for spring and early summer 
 shows is a process requiring skill and care to ensure success. 
 Some of the best varieties for this purpose are Auguste Nicaise, 
 James Yeitch, Keen's Seedling, La Grosse Sucr^e, President, 
 and Vicomte&se Hericart de Thury. Strong runners should 
 be layered as early in the season as possible, in small pots, 
 among sandy loam and leaf-mould. As soon as they are well 
 rooted, repot into sLx-inch pots, using a compost of old fibry 
 loam and a fourth of well-rotted hot-bed manure, to which 
 a sprinkling of bone-meal, sharp sand, and wood-ashes may be 
 added. Set the plants in rows in an open space, protect the 
 pots from strong sun, and to promote strong growth give occa- 
 sional waterings with weak liquid manure. Give them protec- 
 tion in winter from hard frost, and keep the soU moist to 
 preserve the foliage as long as possible. Introduce them to a 
 temperature of 50' at night about three months before the fruit 
 is wanted ; keep them close to the glass, and raise the heat to 
 60' as the season advances. Thin out, and stake the flower 
 trusses, "ive plenty of air in favourable weather, and liquid 
 manure to assist in swelling the fruit. Strong crowns, slowly 
 forced, with plenty of air, light, and moisture, with judi- 
 cious feeding, should produce a crop of fine fruit, which early 
 in the season is highly valued. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size and form; (2.) flavour; and (3.) colour. 
 
DIVISION IV. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 This is by no means the least important division in an ezhibi- 
 tion of horticultural produce, and although it is not so showy 
 and generally attractive as the flowers and fruits, it affords 
 much interest and instruction to the public, and is a field for 
 the keenest competition among horticulturists. The know- 
 ledge of how to grow vegetables to perfection is of the utmost 
 importance to all who cultivate a bit of ground, from the 
 smallest allotment of the cottager to the extensive culinary 
 department of a county magnate's garden establishment, where 
 the very best of everything is a sine qua non; and although 
 the following directions are specially designed for growing 
 specimens for exhibition, they are equally applicable to the 
 cultivation of ordinary vegetables. Tn mentioning the best 
 varieties of the different classes of vegetables, only well- 
 known types, as a rule, have been selected, because it is 
 scarcely possible to name varieties which would do equally 
 well under all circumstances in every part of the country, 
 but they may afford a guide to the inexperienced beginner 
 and the amateur. All experienced competitors have their 
 own select varieties, which they cultivate with indomitable 
 perseverance and skill, to secure the highest awards in com- 
 petition. 
 
 THE GLOBE AETICHOKE. 
 
 The varieties of this vegetable in cultivation are the Green 
 and Purple with different strains from each of more or less 
 merit. To procure first-rate fleshy heads of the Globe Arti- 
 choke, a strong rich soil and an open situation are required. 
 Plants should be divided and planted three feet apart in fresh 
 soil. All the small shoots should be cut away, and two or 
 
198 VEGETABLES. 
 
 three strong crowns left to each plant. Protection should be 
 afforded to the plants in winter by placing dry leaves and 
 litter around them, which should be removed in spring, and 
 a good dressing of rotted manure forked into the soil without 
 disturbing the roots. As soon as the heads are formed 
 they should be thinned, leaving one on each stalk. The plants 
 should then be watered with liquid manure, to increase the 
 size of the head. They should be exhibited when fully de- 
 veloped, but close and firm. The points of merit are : (1.) 
 Size of head; (2.) substance of the bracts; (3.) colour (green 
 preferred) and fitness for use. 
 
 THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
 
 This is an excellent winter vegetable, which can be appro- 
 priately exhibited La either autumn or spring. It should not 
 be cultivated on strong rich ground, because the top growth 
 attains great dimensions, while the roots are generally small 
 and badly formed. A rather sandy soil should be chosen in 
 a position sheltered from wind, but well exposed to the sun. 
 The best-formed medium-sized roots should be planted during 
 March in rows three feet apart and 18 inches between the sets. 
 Under these conditions, and with frequent drenchings of liquid 
 manure when the tubers are swelling, large, clean, well-shaped 
 roots should be formed. "When the stems have reached four to 
 five feet in height, they should be stopped, and the side-shoots 
 kept close in by pinching. The points of merit are : (1.) Size ; 
 (2 ) form : and (3.) an even sample of tubers. 
 
 THE ASPARAGUS. 
 
 The Asparagus cannot be grown successfully in every kind 
 of soil Where the natural soil is unsuitable a bed should 
 be made up of rich friable loam and well-decomposed manure. 
 Two of the best for exhibition are the Giant and Connover's 
 Colossal. To secure large heads, the plants should be thin 
 on the ground. A heavy dressing of salt should be given 
 to the beds in spring before the heads appear, and sprinklings 
 of guano and nitrate of potash alternately in moist weather 
 
VEGETABLES. 199 
 
 during growth are very beneficial. Cutting should cease by 
 the middle of June at latest, after which the strongest 
 shoots should be carefully preserved, and staked if necessary, 
 to prevent them being swayed about and broken by the wind, 
 the weak ones being cut away as they appear. As soon as 
 the shoots are ripe in autumn they should be cut over, and 
 the ground covered with six inches of stable litter and leaves. 
 The points of merit in Asparagus are : (1.) Length and thick- 
 ness of the stalk ; (2.) the head close; and (3.) all of an equal 
 size and fit for use. 
 
 THE BEOAD BEAN. 
 
 Three of the best varieties of Broad Beans for exhibition are 
 Aquadulce, Leviathan, and Seville. They require a rich stiff 
 soil, well worked and pulverised, to grow in. Seed should be 
 sown at three or four different times between the beginning 
 of February and the end of May, in drills five inches deep and 
 two feet apart. Earth should be drawn up to the tops of the 
 earliest ones when they appear above ground, to protect them 
 from frosty winds. When the plants have reached the height 
 of four feet they should be topped, and the pods thinned to five 
 or six of the best formed, equally divided up the stem. A 
 mulching should be given to them after being watered with 
 weak liquid manure, an operation which should be attended to 
 often in dry weather. By careful thinning and feeding, pods 
 of great length, containing extra large beans, should be pro- 
 duced. The points of merit are : (1.) Length and breadth of 
 pods, which should be all equal and dark green in colour j 
 (2.) number and size of beans, which should be in the best 
 condition for use. 
 
 THE FEEXCH BEAN. 
 
 A high-class vegetable, and when in its most perfect state 
 about equal to the pea as an exhibition dish. The best varie- 
 ties for that purpose are Canadian Wonder and Ne Plus Ultra. 
 If they are required to be grown under glass, the latter is the 
 best for exhibition. French Beans thrive in a rich warm soil, 
 and to have them in their best condition, they should be sown 
 
200 VEGETABLES. 
 
 in prepared trenches similar to peas. The first sowing should 
 be made early in May, and be followed by others at intervals 
 of a fortnight till the middle of June. The beans should be 
 planted singly, at about 4J inches apart, and half of them 
 pulled up when all are safe above ground, giving each plant 
 left nine inches in the row, with 2| feet between the rows. The 
 plants should receive a copious supply of water in dry weather, 
 giving weak liquid manure when the pods are swelling. If 
 the pods are too forward for the show, they must be removed 
 before they attain full size, so that those coming in at the 
 proper time may receive the full benefit of the vigour of the 
 plant. 
 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size; (2.) quality, young and 
 tender, and showing no fibre when broken aci-oss; and (3.) 
 appearance, smooth and equal in length and shape, and of a 
 bright green colour. 
 
 THE KUXXEK BEAJ,'. 
 
 Two fine exhibition varieties are Jubilee and Scarlet Cham- 
 pion. The cultivation of the runner is similar to that recom- 
 mended for the general crop of French Beans, except that long 
 stakes or a trellis should be provided for their support. The 
 pods should be thinned out, and never be allowed to get old 
 on the plant. The points of merit are the same as those in 
 the French Beans. 
 
 THE BEET. 
 
 There are many varieties of Beet, each raiser claiming supe- 
 riority for his special production. Carter's Perfection, Prag- 
 neU's Exhibition, and Frisby's Excelsior are among the best 
 for exhibition. Beet requires a light soil, free from vegetable 
 matter, to grow in, with some rich manure about a foot from 
 the surface. Seed should be sown in April and May, in drills 
 1 8 inches, and the plants thinned to nine inches apart. The 
 points of merit are: (1.) Size and smoothness of the root; 
 (2.) flesh crisp, free from fibre, and when 'cut the sap should 
 "bleed" or ooze; and (3.) colour dark with the circles wide 
 apart, and all of the same colour. 
 
VEGETABLES. 201 
 
 THE BOKECOLE OE KALE. 
 
 The Kale is a winter . vegetable of much importance, espe- 
 cially in the northern parts of the kingdom. There are many 
 varieties of the dwarf curled, each grower selecting and naming 
 his own strain, which is the best way to ensure its being kept 
 true. The cultivation of Borecole is extremely simple ; it only 
 requires a rich soil and plenty of room. Seed should be sown 
 in a frame in the beginning of March for an early supply, but 
 for autumn and winter a sowing should be made on a sheltered 
 border in the middle of March, and the seedlings thinned early 
 to prevent the plants being drawn. As soon as the plants 
 are four inches high, plant out two feet apart each way. Water 
 in extra dry weather, giving weak liquid manure occasionally 
 to increase the size of the head. The plants should be cut 
 clean across below the leaves, and the stems stuck in pots 
 amongst wet sand for exhibition. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size of head and number of leaves, the older ones slightly 
 arching; and (2.) the leaves dark or light green, succulent, 
 and densely curled. 
 
 THE BEOCCOLL 
 
 The many varieties, both early and late, of this fine vege- 
 table furnish a long succession of heads for autumn, winter, 
 and spring exhibitions. To provide a supply for each of these 
 periods, seeds of Walcheren and Veitch's Self -Protecting 
 should be sown thinly in April to produce heads for the 
 autumn ; Backhouse's Winter and Snow's Superb for winter, 
 and Niddrie Protecting and Veitch's Model for spring and 
 early summer ; sowing these at intervals of two weeks from 
 the middle of April till the end of May. After the plants 
 are large enough to handle, they should be pricked out four 
 inches apart on a bed of fine soil and leaf-mould until they 
 are large enough to be finally planted out. 
 
 Broccoli thrives best in a rich loam, which should be deeply 
 dug and well trodden to firm it. Previous to planting, a dress- 
 ing of salt and soot should be pointed into the surface for the 
 destruction of maggot and other pests. 
 
202 VEGETABLES. 
 
 The plants should be lifted from the bed with balls of 
 earth, planted in rows three feet apart and two feet between 
 the plants, and watered if the soil is dry. The space between 
 the rows should be occupied with spinach, lettuce, or turnips 
 where ground is scarce. The advantage of wide planting is 
 observed after a cold winter has passed. The autumn and 
 Spring Broccoli should be assisted to make large heads after 
 they are formed, by frequent applications of liquid manure. 
 When the heads appear, they should be protected from light 
 and frost. When cut with a long stem, they can be preserved 
 for two weeks in a dark cellar, and the colour improved by 
 the keeping. 
 
 The points of merit are: (1.) Size and symmetry of the 
 head; and (2.) closeness and pureness of the "curd," which 
 should be free from " froth." 
 
 THE BRUSSELS SPEOUT. 
 
 There are many so-called varieties of this fine vegetable, 
 but it is rare to find them true to description, from the want of 
 sufficient care being taken in the selection of the plants from 
 which the seed was obtained. A grower for competition should 
 select a few of his best plants every third year, lift and plant 
 them at the foot of a wall as far away as possible from other 
 flowering plants of the brassica tribe. When the seed is ripe, it 
 should be rubbed out, preserved dry, and sown on a gentle hot- 
 bed during the first week in March. The seedlings should be 
 pricked out and hardened off by the end of April, when they 
 should be planted out two feet apart on well-prepared ground, 
 which is inclined to be heavy rather than light. Liquid 
 manure should be given after the sprouts are formed, and 
 the plants never allowed to want for water during dry 
 weather. The plants should be lifted when wanted, the 
 lower leaves trimmed neatly off, and then potted with a few 
 of the i-oots attached. By this method the plants are kept 
 fresh, and their parts better exposed than when they are 
 tied together in bundles. When sprouts are exhibited as a 
 dish, the best only, and all of equal size, should be selected. 
 
VEGETABLES. 203 
 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size and number of sprouts on 
 the stem; (2.) equality in size; and (3.) closeness and firm- 
 ness of the sprouts. 
 
 THE CABBAGE. 
 
 Although one of the commonest of all vegetables, the Cab- 
 bage is by no means an unimportant item in an exhibition 
 collection, when it is set up in its very best condition. The 
 best variety for early shows is a good strain of Early York, 
 and the best for autumn shows is Winningstadt, with any good 
 strain of Eed Cabbage for pickling. 
 
 The Cabbage thrives best in a strong rich loam, and in 
 inferior soils it must receive extra Uberal treatment to make 
 up the deficiency. Seed of Early York should be sown on 
 a warm border about the middle of August, and again a fort- 
 night later. Plants from these sowings will be ready to set out 
 in October and the following February. Seed of both Early 
 York and Winningstadt should be sown in the same manner 
 in February, and every fortnight till May, to keep up a suc- 
 cession of fresh succulent heads during the exhibition season. 
 The same treatment as applied to the Cauliflower suits the 
 Cabbage admirably. The points of merit are : (1.) Quality, 
 the leaves should be thick and succulent, and closely turned 
 in ; (2.) form, which should be more or less conical, not flat- 
 topped nor oblong shaped ; (3.) Size, firmness, and weight. 
 
 THE CAEEOT. 
 
 When clean and well grown, the Carrot is an important dish 
 in a first-rate collection of vegetables. It grows to great per- 
 fection in certain soils without any trouble, while in others it 
 completely baffles the best skill to make it thrive. The most 
 certain method to command success is to provide the proper 
 soil for it. The best varieties for exhibition are Early Horn, 
 Nantes, and a good strain of Intermediate. Clean sharp sand 
 from the sea-shore is the best medium in which to grow carrots 
 to perfection, but if it cannot be easily obtained, river or pit 
 sand will do. It should be placed in a wide trench or bed 
 
204 VEGETABLES. 
 
 15 to 18 inches in depth, and enriched with dressings of salt 
 and liquid manure poured over it during the winter. Fork it 
 over loosely before sowing the seed in shallow drills, 15 inches 
 apart, early in April. Thin the plants in due time to six or 
 eight inches apart, according to the variety, and keep them 
 always clear of weeds. Apply weak liquid manure in dry wea- 
 ther, and sprinkle guano or any good artificial manure among 
 them on showery days. The points of merit are : (1.) Size, 
 which should be large of its kind; (2.) form, which should be 
 smooth and symmetrical ; and (3.) quality, the flesh should be 
 crisp and tender, bright red in colour, and the core small. 
 
 THE CAULIFLOWEE. 
 
 While Cauliflower is in season it is indispensable in a collec- 
 tion, and when in its best condition takes a leading place among 
 vegetables. The best varieties for exhibition in succession are 
 Snowball, Eclipse, and Autumn Giant. 
 
 If required early, a sowing should be made in boxes in a 
 gentle heat about the end of February, and care must be taken 
 that the young plants do not become drawn, or want for water 
 while they are under glass. When large enough to handle, 
 they should be pricked off at three inches apart in boxes of 
 rich soil Gradually harden off, and plant out as soon as all 
 danger from frost is past, always being careful that the plants 
 receive no check from any cause, which is apt to make them 
 " button.'' Successional sowings must be made in the open air 
 about every fortnight from March to May, and the plants 
 treated as carefully as those raised under glass. A strong 
 loam, heavily dressed with well-made manure, grows the finest 
 Cauliflower, and where the soil is light and poor, special care 
 should be taken to improve its quality, by adding good loam 
 and an extra quantity of manure. When ready for planting 
 out, the young plants should be carefully lifted with a good ball 
 around the roots, and planted with a trowel, so as to injure 
 them as little as possible. Settle the soil around them and 
 give a good watering. Eepeat the watering every few days 
 if the weather is dry, and when the heads begin to form, liquid 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 205 
 
 manure should be freely applied to develop them to their 
 finest proportions. As the heads expand, be careful to shade 
 them from the sun by bending the leaves closely over them, 
 to exclude the light and preserve their pure white colour. 
 Should they come too early for the show, they may be pre- 
 served for a short time in a tolerably fresh state by being 
 pulled up by the roots, and hung, heads down, in a dark cool 
 place. In judging, the points of merit are : (1.) Form, which 
 should be globular and regiilar in outline; (2.) size; and 
 (3.) colour, which should be pure white. 
 
 THE CELEKY. 
 
 This vegetable in its best form is one of the strongest 
 articles in a collection, and as a single dish it takes first 
 rank, especially when produced, solid and crisp, in early 
 autumn, 18 inches in length of blanched stalks, and 15 inches 
 round them. "Wright's Giant White and Manchester Red are 
 excellent varieties for exhibition. Seed should be sown in 
 boxes in the middle of February, and placed in a mild hot- 
 bed, or in a pit with a night temperature of 55°. As soon as 
 they are fit to handle, they should be pricked out, about four 
 inches apart, on a gentle hotbed or in boxes, using rich friable 
 loam, and being careful never to allow the plants to become 
 dry at the root, which is exceedingly prejudicial. Towards 
 the end of April the plants should be nice stocky stuff, and 
 should be gradually exposed to the air by pulling the sashes 
 off the frame more or less daily according to the weather, 
 until they are quite hardened off, and ready for planting out 
 in the trenches. 
 
 For growing exhibition celery, a sheltered place lying in 
 the full sun should be chosen. The ground should be well 
 drained, naturally or artificially, and the trenches prepared 
 some time before they are required. For a single row of 
 plants, the trench should be 15 inches wide and 18 inches deep, 
 removing any bad soil that may be turned up, and filling the 
 trench with one foot in depth of the following compost : one-half 
 sound turfy loam, and the other half of equal parts of well- 
 
206 VEGETABLES. 
 
 rotted manure, leaf-mould, night-soil, wood-ashes, and sand. 
 Carefully lift the plants with a hand-fork, to preserve the ball 
 as whole as possible, and plant them in the trench at one foot 
 apart. Press the earth lightly around them, and then give a 
 thorough soaking of water to settle the soil around the roots. 
 After the plants are dry, place a piece of thick brown paper 
 around the stalks of each (leaving the tops free), which will 
 support them and prevent the soil getting in the heart of the 
 plant, and assist in the blanching of the stalks. A little earth 
 should be drawn up around the paper to keep it in position. 
 If the weather is dry, copious waterings are necessary to 
 ensure a free firm growth. In a few weeks they will be grow- 
 ing freely, and will require earthing up. The paper "collar" 
 should be slipped up, and the stalks being all in proper posi- 
 tion, a little dry sawdust or sand should be placed closely 
 around them, and banked up with the earth dug out of the 
 trench. When the plants are growing freely, weak liquid 
 manure and top-dressings of artificial manures are beneficial ; 
 but discretion is required not to overdo the use of stimulants. 
 Manures in excess produce coarse rank stalks, worthless, as a 
 rule, for exhibition purposes. Good rich soil, with a moderate 
 amount of manure, and a judiciously regulated supply of liquid 
 and artificial manures during growth, produce the best results. 
 In dry warm weather the plants are refreshed by a sprinkling 
 from a watering-pot in the evening, scattering a little common 
 salt among the plants previous to the sprinkling. Earthing 
 should be carefully attended to till the stems are blanched to 
 the desired length, which, however, should never be obtained 
 at the sacrifice of girth, the first object being thick, solid, 
 crisp stalks, and then length of blanched stem. 
 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size (length and girth) of 
 blanched portion; (2.) quality (solidity and crispness) ; (3.) 
 flavour a rich " nutty " flavour being preferred. No " bolted " 
 celery should receive an award. 
 
 THE CUCUMBER. 
 Among the best varieties of the Cucumber for exhibition 
 are Duke of Edinburgh, Telegraph, Tender and True, and Ver- 
 
VEGETABLES. 207 
 
 dant Green. They are easily grown in a glass frame set on a 
 hotbed, where fine specimens may be obtained with the aid of 
 glass tubes to keep them straight and shapely. The best 
 method, however, of obtaining clean, straight, and handsome 
 specimens is by growing them in a properly constructed 
 cucumber-house, where the plants are trained on wires near 
 the roof, and the Cucumbers hang down from them, clear of 
 aU contact, and fully exposed to plenty of light and air. Seed 
 should be sown in light rich soil, in a high temperature 
 from ten to twelve weeks before the produce is wanted ; and 
 as soon as the plants are in the rough leaf, the seedlings 
 should be potted singly and grown till they are about a foot 
 high, when they should be planted out on small hills of light 
 fibry loam and leaf-mould, and the house kept at a tem- 
 perature of 70° at night, with abundance of moisture in the 
 atmosphere, and shading from sunshine when necessary. The 
 plants should grow quickly and show fruit within three weeks, 
 which should be thinned to a few of the most promising which 
 are likely to be at their best on the date of the show. The 
 growth must be kept well thinned out, and the bearing shoots 
 stopped at the leaf beyond the fruit. Those coming too early 
 should be removed in time, to conserve the energies of the 
 plant for the production of the exhibition specimens, which 
 are much benefited by frequent doses of liquid manure when 
 they are swelling. For exhibition, fruits of the same size and 
 appearance should be chosen ; and in handling and packing, 
 every care should be taken to preserve the bloom intact. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) Equal size and shape; (2.) fresh and 
 dark-green in colour; and (3.) the bloom perfect. 
 
 THE EXDIVE. 
 There are many varieties of this useful vegetable, all raised 
 from the broad and curled leaved. The latter makes the finest- 
 looking head for exhibition, and should be cultivated for that 
 purpose. Seeds of both the green and white curled should be 
 own on a rich border in May and in June for succession. As 
 soon as the plants are large enough, they should be transplanted 
 nto rows 18 inches apart, and one foot between the plants, 
 
208 VEGETABLES. 
 
 upon a deep free soil that has been previously well manured. To 
 promote rapid growth for the production of tender succulent 
 leaves, frequent waterings should be given as soon as the plants 
 get established, using drainings of the manure heap alter- 
 nately with clear soft water. When the plants are about full 
 grown, the blanching should be proceeded with, while watering 
 with liquid manure should cease. The simplest mode of blanch- 
 ing is by placing pots or seakale covers over the plants, which 
 should be done about three weeks before the heads are wanted, 
 when the plants should be carefully lifted and put into 7-inch 
 pots for exhibition. The points of merit are : (1.) Size of head ; 
 (3.) closeness of heart, with leaves well ciu'led; and (3.) well 
 blanched and tender. • 
 
 THE HORSE-EADISH. 
 This useful perennial presents no choice of varieties, but 
 possesses within itself, when well grown, all the qualities that 
 can be desired for the purposes for which it is used. To obtain 
 large clean roots for exhibition, a trench 18 inches wide and 
 deep should be dug in March, into which six inches of well- 
 rotted manure should be dug. The surface soil should then 
 be replaced, and holes made one foot deep and the same apart, 
 into which strong clean pieces 12 inches long with the crown 
 left on should be dropped. The soil should then be firmed 
 and watered if dry. The roots should be lifted when they 
 are wanted, the leaves and small roots trimmed o£E, washed, 
 and tied in bundles for exhibition. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Length and thickness; and (2.) straight, clean roots. 
 
 THE LEEK. 
 When grown in its best form, the Leek forms a conspicuous 
 feature in a collection of vegetables. The best varieties for 
 exhibition are The Lyon and Renton's Monarch. Leeks for ex- 
 hibition should be sown in heat about the middle of February. 
 The best method is to fill as many 3i-inch pots as may be re- 
 quired with light rich soil, in which about half-a-dozen seeds 
 should be placed. When about three inches high, the best 
 plant should be selected, and all the others pulled out. As 
 soon as the roots fill the soil, the plants should be transferred 
 
VEGETABLES. 209 
 
 to six-inch pots, and grown on in a night temperature of 55°. 
 Early in May they should be gradually hardened oif, prepara- 
 tory to being planted out. Trenches should be prepared for 
 them in the same manner and with the same materials as for 
 Celery, and after planting out they require exactly the same 
 treatment — watering, top-dressing, and earthing-up — to bring 
 them to the highest perfection. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size or length and girth of blanched portion ; (2.) shape, 
 which should be cylindrical, without any bulge at the root ; 
 and (3.) firmness and -weight. 
 
 THE LETTUCE. 
 
 This is an indispensable vegetable in all gardens, and is the 
 most generally cultivated of all the salad plants. There are 
 two well-known and distinct types in cultivation, the Cabbage 
 or round Lettuce, and the Cos or upright form, the latter being 
 the favourite for exhibition. A host of varieties are grown, but 
 a good strain of the White Cos is the best to grow for compe- 
 tition specimens. Seed sown on an open border in March, 
 and planted out as soon as large enough, will furnish fine 
 samples by midsummer, or they may be brought on much 
 quicker if grown in a close frame or under hand-lights. For 
 raising early and tender Lettuce, the French cloche is a first- 
 rate contrivance, but it is more suitable for the Cabbage varie- 
 ties — the favourite in France — than for the Cos; still, with 
 its aid, the quality of the latter is much improved. A rich fin- 
 able soil, well dug and manured the previous autumn, is a first- 
 rate medium for growing the finest of Lettuce. When they 
 are about half-grown, they should be well fed with liquid 
 manure, and receive abundance of water in dry weather. At- 
 tention must be paid to tying the heads with a piece of soft 
 raffia to blanch the leaves, if they do not close in naturally. A 
 Lettuce for exhibition should be neatly dressed by removing 
 the root and all stale or damaged leaves, leaving nothing but 
 what is fit to make a salad. The points of merit are : (1.) Size 
 and solidity of the head ; (2.) quality, fresh, crisp, and tender; 
 and (3.) leaves thick and juicy, and of good flavour. 
 
 o 
 
210 VEGETABLES, 
 
 THE MUSHROOM. 
 
 The Mushroom is much appreciated as an esculent, and con- 
 sequently attains a high position among others in competition. 
 Its cultivation is chiefly confined to places of importance and 
 to growers for market, and many methods have been devised 
 for its production on a cheap scale, on ridges and in frames 
 without artificial heat. These modes are sometimes very suc- 
 cessful ; but a house specially constructed for the purpose, 
 and where the necessary conditions for growth can be main- 
 tained, independent of external circumstances, is the best and 
 most reliable. Mushrooms cannot, like other vegetables, be 
 much stimulated with liquid manure during their time of 
 growth, consequently the bed on which they are to grow 
 should be made of the most substantial material. Horse- 
 droppings, turned daily to sweeten for about a fortnight, are 
 generally used for this purpose, but a mixture of cow and 
 sheep droppings tend to modify the heat and render the 
 material far more lasting, giving larger produce and of a better 
 quality. These materials, after being mixed and two or three 
 times turned, should be put in a bed about 18 inches deep, 
 and made very firm. In a few days the heat will rise, and 
 after it begins to decline the spawn should be introduced. 
 A layer two inches thick of loam and cow-dung made into 
 mortar, should then be spread over the bed and made smooth. 
 A moist atmosphere should be constantly maintained and the 
 surface of the bed covered with straw to keep it moist. Little 
 or no fire-heat will be required in summer, but in autumn 
 and winter a steady temperature of 56° should be maintained. 
 The points of merit ai-e ; (1.) Size, which should be equal; 
 (2.) condition, fresh and joerfect ; (3.) colour, white with the 
 gills a fresh pink. 
 
 THE ONION. 
 
 The improvement in the cultivation of the Onion has per- 
 haps been more marked in recent years than that of any 
 similar vegetable. This is partly due to the introduction of 
 improved varieties, and particularly the large varieties, such 
 as Trebons, Giant Kocca, and the like. The size which these 
 and others now assume was quite unknown in onion-culture 
 
VEGETABLES. 211 
 
 a few years ago ; and still the size increases yearly, our 
 leading exhibitors vieing with each other in " beating the 
 record." Three of the finest for exhibition are Ailsa Craig, 
 Rouaham Park Hero, and Trebons. Onions thrive best in a 
 rich, light, warm soil, made firm on the surface by treading 
 just before planting. It should be heavily manured and double 
 dug the previous autumn, leaving it in ridges exposed to the 
 frost all winter. When required for planting, level the ridges 
 and fork into the surface soil a dressing of salt and soot. 
 A little bone-meal is also very beneficial. The seed may be 
 sown in the open air on a warm border about the middle of 
 August, or in boxes, in a mild heat, early in February. In 
 either case they must be pricked three inches apart into boxes, 
 fiUed with light rich soil, and placed in a temperature of about 
 55° at the lowest, where they will grow freely and make fine 
 plants to set out in due time. Care must be taken to prevent 
 any drawing of the plants while they are in heat, and they 
 must be gradually hardened off to be ready to plant out early 
 in May. The ground being properly prepared, the planting 
 should be done on a mild afternoon, lifting each plant care- 
 fully with a ball, and inserting it unbroken into the firm 
 surface of the ground with a trowel. Place a small stake to 
 each plant, to save the leaves from being tossed about by the 
 wind till the plants are established, and give a watering to 
 settle the soil around the ball. The rows should be about 
 15 inches between, and the plants about nine inches apart in 
 the rows. Ttey should be kept clear of weeds, and receive 
 when growing freely a copious supply of liquid manure (made 
 from guano, soot, or pigeon-dung) in dry weather, and a 
 sprinkling of artificial manure in showery weather is very 
 beneficial in swelling the bulbs to their largest dimensions. As 
 they reach maturity the heads of most of them require to be 
 bent over and slightly twisted, to stop top growth and assist the 
 ripening of the bulbs. For early autumn shows it is generally 
 necessary to lift them and twist their necks, and place them in 
 a dry hot place to ripen for competition. Their points of merit 
 are: (1.) Size, which must be firm and weighty; (2.) form, 
 which should be globular and smooth, with a fine neck ; and 
 (3.) ripeness. 
 
212 VEGETABLES. 
 
 THE PARSLEY. 
 This vegetable, when shown as part of a collection or in 
 a class by itself, should always be exhibited in a pot. It 
 should not be simply lifted and potted when required, but 
 it should be grown at least for a time in the pot. Two suit- 
 able varieties are Myatt's and Triple Curled. Seed should be 
 sown in a box in March amongst light loam and leaf -mould, 
 and placed in a frame. When the plants are large enough to 
 handle, they should be pricked four inches apart into another 
 box. After the plants are strong and bushy, they should be 
 potted into six-inch pots among similar soil, and set in a frame 
 with a northern aspect. They shoiild be shaded from strong 
 sun, and never be allowed to get dry. A moist atmosphere 
 around the pots is also essential to promote healthy growth. 
 Weak guano-and-soot water, given once a week after the 
 plants are established in the pots, encourages the production 
 of large healthy leaves. The points of merit are: (1.) Size 
 and number of leaves; (2.) quality, fresh and tender; and 
 (3.) plant well furnished with firm, densely-curled leaves. 
 
 THE PARSNIP. 
 The varieties of parsnips are few, two of the best being 
 Hollow-Crowned and The Student. To secure long, clean, taper- 
 ing roots, parsnips should be cultivated on a deep sandy loam 
 free from all rank vegetable matter. The ground should be 
 prepared during winter by trenching two feet deep, and digging 
 into the bottom of the trench a quantity of rich decomposed 
 manure. The ground should be well broken up in March, and 
 the seed sown thinly in rows, two feet apart. The plants should 
 be thinned to one foot apart, and when the roots are about half 
 grown and well formed, liquid manure should be given, which 
 will do much to feed and increase the size of the root. A 
 deep trench should be dug between the rows when lifting, 
 and all the root that is clean and straight preserved. The 
 roots should then be washed clean, and all side fibres nipped 
 clear away. The points of merit are : (1.) Length and thick- 
 ness; (2.) root tapering, straight, and clean; and (3.) flesh 
 firm, tender, and succulent. 
 
VEGETABLES. 216 
 
 THE TEA. 
 This is one of the most important of all vegetables. In 
 competition, a dish of peas in a perfect condition takes a high 
 place. Three of the best varieties for exhibition are Duke of 
 Albany, Stratagem, and Telephone. To grow it to perfection, 
 the Pea requires a strong rich loam. "Where the soil is un- 
 favourable, trenches should be filled with a mixture of turfy 
 loam and well-rotted manure six inches deep, and the Peas 
 sown thinly on it, covering them with an inch deep of ordinary 
 soil. For exhibition in August and September, two sowings 
 should be made in May. As soon as they are fairly above the 
 ground they must be properly staked, and if the weather is drj', 
 they should be mulched with long litter and regularly watered. 
 When they have grown to nearly their ftill height, the tops 
 may be pinched off. If the crop is heavy, it should be thinned 
 by removing the small and badly formed pods, and also all that 
 are hkely to be too forward. By this means, fresh, plump, 
 well-filled pods are secured. Peas should be shown in their 
 pods, and a certain number of pods should always be stipulated 
 for. The points of merit are : (1.) Length and girth of pod, 
 which should be straight and well filled, and all of an equal 
 size ; and (2.) Peas large, plump, dark-green, tender, and sweet 
 to the taste. 
 
 THE POTATO. 
 
 The varieties of this useful esculent have increased very 
 rapidly within the last few years. They have also been very 
 much improved in appearance, but whether or not the quality 
 has improved in the same degree cannot be definitely stated. 
 We are, however, indebted to those specialists who by careful 
 cross -fertilisation have been enabled to produce varieties, proof, 
 at least for a time, against the attacks of disease. 
 
 Among the best twelve for exhibition are Ashleaf Fluke, 
 Beauty of Hebron, Excelsior, Freedom, International, King of 
 Russets, Schoolmaster, Snowflake, Snowdrop, The Cobbler, 
 Vicar of Laleham, and Village Blacksmith. White and 
 round varieties being most popular, should predominate in all 
 collections. 
 
214 VEGETABLES. 
 
 The potato is of easy culture, but it cannot be successfully- 
 grown for exhibition in every kind of soil. Certain varieties 
 grow well in a moist situation, but the majority produce the 
 best tubers in a dry soil. A light mellow loam, comparatively 
 free from iron, and well mixed with leaf-soil, is most suitable 
 for the production of clean well-shaped tubers. 
 
 To secure late potatoes for early autumn shows, it is neces- 
 sary to start the sets in heat in the middle of February, placing 
 some of the best-formed medium-sized tubers into shallow boxes 
 amongst leaf-soil. As soon as they have grown an inch, they 
 should be removed to a cold frame and placed near the glass 
 to harden off. The soil having been well broken up and in 
 a workable condition, they should be planted out in the middle 
 of March. Lift them out of the boxes with as much soil 
 attached to the roots as possible, and place them in shallow 
 furrows from two to three feet apart, and one foot to one foot 
 four inches between the sets, according to their habit of growth. 
 All the shoots should be removed from the sets at planting 
 except the strongest one. A little fine soil should be placed ■ 
 round the sets in the drill, then cover them to a depth of four 
 inches. Potatoes should not be planted deep, because the best 
 tubers are invariabl}' those nearest the surface. When the 
 tops appear above grovind, a little earth should be drawn over 
 them for protection. The hoe and fork should be often applied 
 between the drills whilst the potatoes are young, as the more 
 they receive in this way, especially in adhesive soil, the better 
 will be the crop. Previovis to earthing up, a dressing should be 
 given of some inorganic manure recommended for the potato, it 
 being more beneficial to them than quantities of rank farm-yard 
 manure. The soil should be drawn well up to the stems when 
 they are finally earthed iip, and all blooms picked off as they 
 appear. 
 
 Care should be exercised when lifting the crop to prevent 
 injury to the skin of the tubers. The best specimens should 
 be picked out as they are lifted and set apart, and in the final 
 selection for exhibition, those of equal size, form, and good ap- 
 pearance should be chosen ; and after being carefully washed, 
 they should be rolled in soft paper and kept from the light. 
 
VEGETABLES. 215 
 
 When dishes are not provided for staging, a shallow box three 
 inches deep is necessary for the purpose, into which the tubers 
 should be laid upon green moss, arranging the colours tastefully, 
 and keeping an inch of clear space between each tuber. The 
 points of merit are : (1.) The tubers should be of a good size, 
 equal and alike in form and colour; and (2.) the flesh when 
 cut across should be clear and of one colour. Coloured varie- 
 ties with a pink tinge in the flesh should not be disqualified 
 on account of it. 
 
 THE KADISH. 
 
 There are numerous varieties of the Radish in cultivation, 
 the best of which for exhibition are the French Breakfast and 
 Long Scarlet for forcing and the earliest crops in the open air, 
 and the turnip-rooted red and white varieties for summer and 
 autumn crops. They thrive best in a rich, warm, free soil, in 
 a sheltered spot in spring and early summer, and on a north 
 sloping border in hot summer weather, when the direct rays of 
 hot sunshine are detrimental to their quality. Seed should be 
 sown from four to six weeks, according to the season, before 
 the date when the roots are required. If the weather proves 
 hot and dry, they are much benefited by a plentiful supply of 
 water and liquid manure to promote a free and rapid growth, 
 upon which their chief qualities depend. In selecting them for 
 exhibition, choose clean well-grown roots, which break crisp and 
 clean, and show no fibre in them. The points of merit are : 
 (1.) Size, and all the sample equal; (2.) quality, fresh and 
 clean from small fibry roots; and (3.) flesh crisp and juicy, 
 and of a brisk, pleasant, slightly pungent flavour. 
 
 THE RHUBARB. 
 
 This accommodating vegetable may be said to grow any- 
 where, but can scarcely be placed in any soil too rich for its 
 taste. Two first-rate varieties are Johnstone's St. Martin and 
 Victoria. The former is comparatively sweet, while they both 
 possess a fine red colour, and can be grown to a large size. 
 The open-air culture being simple, a few hints on forcing of 
 Rhubarb may be useful. The produce from plants lifted and 
 
216 ATIGETABLES. 
 
 forced being inferior for exhibition to that from those estab- 
 lished outside, a few plants should be divided in March, and 
 the strongest crowns planted three feet apart in rows five feet 
 asunder, on a deeply-trenched, well-manured, warm border. 
 When the plants begin to grow, they should receive frequent 
 waterings with drainings from the stable or byre, well diluted. 
 No stalks should be taken from the plants during the summer, 
 that the whole strength and substance may be concentrated 
 for their future support. Square boxes, three feet wide at the 
 bottom and two feet at the top, should be put over the plants, 
 around which should be built a good thickness of stable litter 
 and leaves well mixed. A little light admitted at the top 
 during fine days improves the colour and texture of the stalks. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Length and thickness of the stalks; 
 (2.) quality, firm, tender, and briskly acid ; and (3.) colour, 
 clear and bright. 
 
 THE SAVOY. 
 
 The Savoy is an excellent winter vegetable, which, like the 
 Brussels Sprout, is the better for a little touch of frost to make 
 it tender. Good varieties for exhibition are Early Ulm, Green 
 Curled, and Drumhead. When Savoys are wanted for autumn 
 seed should be sown under the same conditions as are recom- 
 mended for Brussels Sprouts, while the second sowing should be 
 made along with the Cabbage on an early border. The plants 
 should be afterwards treated in the same manner as Cabbage. 
 The points of merit are : (1.) Size and firmness of the head ; 
 (2.) solidity of the heart when cut ; and (3.) yellowish colour 
 of heart. 
 
 THE SEAKALE. 
 
 This important winter and spring vegetable thrives best in 
 light deep loam, and the best heads are reared from two-year 
 old plants. Seakale should be treated in the same manner as 
 Rhubarb, except that a little salt should be sprinkled round 
 the plants previous to watering, and blanching covers put over 
 the crowns instead of boxes. The growth of the shoots can be 
 advanced or retarded by the strength of heating material used. 
 The points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) compactness; and 
 (3.) quality, crisp, succulent, and perfectly blanched. 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 217 
 
 THE TOMATO. 
 The Tomato has of late become exceedingly popular, and 
 although it takes a place among vegetables, it is very often used 
 as a fruit, and may some day be included in that class. It 
 makes a very bright and attractive dish, and in n collection of 
 vegetables it takes a high position. Many new varieties have 
 been recently sent out, some of which are good, while others 
 are inferior to some of the old sorts. Hathaway's Excelsior, 
 Large Red, and Trophy are excellent old varieties, seeds of 
 which should be saved from the largest and finest of the pro- 
 duce. And of newer varieties, Dwarf Champion, Hackwood 
 Park, and Volunteer are among the best. They are very easily 
 cultivated if a low-roofed house with plenty of space for venti- 
 lation and means for maintaining a night temperature of 50° 
 to 55° is provided for them. To produce ripe Tomatoes in 
 June, seed should be sown in a mild heat about the beginning 
 of March, and the seedlings potted on till they fill five-inch pots, 
 after which they should be planted two feet apart on a bed 
 composed of light loam and leaf -mould. The plants should be 
 led up with a single stem, and all laterals pinched out as they 
 appear. As soon as they come into flower, a free circulation of 
 dry air through the plants will ensure a good set, and as soon 
 as the fruit are formed, all bad-shaped ones should be cut out, 
 and one or two of the best left on a bunch. To produce large 
 fine Tomatoes, the time to feed is after a number are set and 
 swelling. If it is done with liquid manure or rich soil previous 
 to this time, soft growth will result, and unsatisfactory exhi- 
 bition produce will be obtained. We use at this period a heavy 
 top-dressing of loam and well-decomposed manure in equal 
 parts, to the barrowful of which is added a six-inch potful of 
 a good fertiliser and the same of bone-meal, all mixed together, 
 spread, and made very firm over the roots. As soon as the 
 roots are well through the soil, the plants are supplied with 
 liquid manure once a week. The effect of this treatment is fine 
 Tomatoes and a long season of produce. The points of merit 
 are; (1.) Size; (2.) form; and (3.) colour. The fruits should 
 be of equal size, regular in outline, and of a bright clear coloui-. 
 
218 VEGETABLES. 
 
 THE TURNIP. 
 The Turnip is an indispensable vegetable in a mixed com- 
 petitive collection. When a class is provided for itself, it is 
 generally well filled, and the exhibits in many cases reach the 
 standard of perfection. Two of the best for early shows are 
 Snowball and White Model, while a good strain of Golden Ball 
 is the best for autumn and winter competition. To grow turnips 
 of fine form, free from coarse fibres and with small roots, seeds 
 should be sown between the middle of May and the end of 
 June on rather poor, light, loamy soil. But the roots must not 
 be starved, else the flesh will be tough ; consequently the earth 
 should be drawn well over the bulbs when about half grown, 
 and a furrow made from which to feed the roots with weak 
 liquid manure without its coming in contact with the bulbs. 
 Bulbs of a medium size are preferred to extra large ones. They 
 should be lifted a day or two before the show and washed, the 
 rough parts rubbed smooth, and any fibres removed ; after 
 which the yellow kinds should be exposed to the light, which 
 improves the colour. The points of merit are : (1.) Form ; 
 (2.) colour; (3.) size. The white should be pure, and the 
 yellow kinds bright and uniform all over. When cut, the 
 flesh should be of one colour, juicy, and sweet. 
 
 THE VEGETABLE MAREOW. 
 In its best condition the Vegetable Marrow is worthy of a 
 place in any collection. The finest varieties for exhibition are 
 Long White, Moore's Vegetable Cream, and Pen-y-Byd. Seeds 
 should be sown in March in pots filled with light rich soil, and 
 placed in a night temperature of about 60°, potting the plants 
 off singly into four-inch pots as soon as they have shown the 
 rough leaf, and growing them on in the heat till they are well 
 established. They should be gradually hardened off, and be 
 ready for planting out about the end of Maj'. They will grow 
 well in any sheltered place in the full sun, where a pit may be 
 dug two or three feet deep, and filled with heating material of 
 any kind, on which a barrowful of soil is placed. As soon 
 as the heat rises, the plants should be put in, well watered, and 
 slightly shaded till they begin to grow. They must be pro- 
 
VEGETABLES. 219 
 
 tected at night if frost threatens after they are planted. As 
 they grow and extend, the shoots should be regulated and 
 stopped beyond each fruit. When the plants are growing 
 freely, liquid manure should be liberally applied, as the most 
 vigorous growth generally gives the finest fruits. In selecting 
 them for exhibition, the fruit should be young and symmetrical, 
 not old and coarse. The points of merit are : (1.) Quality, the 
 flesh fresh, solid, and tender; (2.) form, globular or oblong, 
 and free from irregularities; and (3.) size, which should be 
 moderate, neither too small nor too large of the kind. When 
 cut, the flesh should be thick and sweet. 
 
 THE SALAD PLANTS. 
 In the preparation of salads a large variety of plants are 
 employed more or less by connoisseurs, of which the following 
 are the chief : — 
 
 Beet. Corn Salad. Onion. 
 
 Borage. Cress. Purslane. 
 
 Burnet. Dandelion. Radish. 
 
 Celeriac. Endive. Rampion. 
 
 Celery. Horse-Radish. Rape. 
 
 Chervil. Lettuce. Sorrel. 
 
 Chickory. Mint. Tarragon. 
 
 Chives. Mustard. Tomato. 
 
 These are generally exhibited in collections of a certain 
 number of kinds; and when well grown and set up in fair 
 quantities in a neat style, on a proper tray or stand, they are 
 objects of much interest to the visitors at a horticultural show. 
 Tor a collection of twelve kinds, the number usually specified 
 in schedules, the following are a good selection : — 1. Beet, 
 2. Celery, 3. Chervil, 4. Common Cress, 5. Endive, 6. Horse- 
 Radish, 7. Lettuce, 8. Mustard, 9. Onion, 10. Radish, 11. Tar- 
 ragon, 12. Tomato. The cultivation of salads is a compara- 
 tively easy matter, but it is too often much neglected, with the 
 result that the plants are poor, tough, juiceless articles, and 
 very unfit for the purpose of making a rich nourishing salad. 
 They mostly all thrive well in a light, rich, friable loam, and 
 delight in heat and moisture, so that many of them are amen- 
 
220 VEGETABLES. 
 
 able to forcing througli the winter and spring, at which seasons 
 a tender and juicy salad is highly appreciated. In many cases 
 their qualities as salad plants are greatly improved by forcing ; 
 and when a good collection of crisp, tender, juicy salads is ex- 
 hibited in the winter or spring, it commands much attention 
 and merits a good reward. It is not necessary to go into the 
 details of their individual culture, which is well known to every 
 good grower, and is described at length in all works on garden- 
 ing; but the stimulating influence of rich top-dressings and 
 frequent doses of liquid manure is nowhere more clearly evi- 
 dent than in the raising of salad plants and roots for exhibition. 
 As the majority of the plants are used uncooked in making 
 a salad, they shou.ld always be grown in a cleanly condition ; 
 and when set up for competition, every part should be clean 
 and perfect, and all in a fresh, tender state, fit in every way 
 to make a first-rate salad. All herbaceous stems, such as 
 Burnet, Ohevril, Mint, and Tarragon, should be made up into 
 neat bunches, and a fair quantity shown ; and all roots and 
 fruits shown in proportionate quantities. The points of merit 
 are: (1.) All samples well grown; (2.) quality, fresh, crisp, 
 tender, and juicy ; and (3.) the selection good, and all exhibited 
 in suitable proportions. 
 
 THE CULIXABY AND SWEET HEKBS. 
 This is a class which is seldom seen at horticultural exhi- 
 bitions, but the importance of many of the articles in the 
 culinary and household arts fully entitles thetii to recognition 
 in the horticultural prize-list when they are exhibited in first- 
 rate condition. Among those most frequently grown are the 
 following : — 
 
 Angelica. Dill. Purslane. 
 
 . Balm. Fennel. Rosemary. 
 
 Basil. Horehound. Rue. 
 
 Borage. Hyssop. Sage. 
 
 Caraway. Lavender. Savory. 
 
 Camomile. Marigold. Sorrel. 
 
 Coriander. Marjoram. Thyme. 
 
 Costmary Mint. Wormwood. 
 
VEGETABLES. 221 
 
 They should always be exhibited in neat . bunches, and, in the 
 season, in a fresh green state, just as they have reached the 
 perfect condition for use. A dozen of good kinds for a collec- 
 tion are: 1. Basil, 2. Borage, 3. Fennel, 4. Hyssop, 5. Lavender, 
 6. Marigold, 7. Marjoram, 8. Mint, 9. Sage, 10. Savory, 11. 
 Sorrel, and 12. Thyme. As " dried herbs," most of them are 
 suitable for exhibition through the winter and spiing, and 
 when shown in first-rate condition they form a very interest- 
 ing exhibit. They are all easily grown in any friable soil in 
 good condition, and when exhibition samples are wanted they 
 are much improved by a little extra attention to manuring, 
 watering in dry weather, and supporting with stakes those 
 that require it. An excellent method of exhibiting a collec- 
 tion of them is to grow them specially for exhibition in pots. 
 Healthy young plants soon form nice specimens in suitable 
 sized pots when grown in an open compost of fibry loam, leaf- 
 mould, and crushed bones. Plunged in a sheltered border, the 
 plants will grow vigorously, and can be fed to any necessary 
 extent with liquid manure and rich surface dressings. A little 
 staking and regulating of those requiring it will make capital 
 specimens of them for exhibition. The points of merit in 
 green or dried herbs are : (1.) Good samples of each in perfect 
 condition ; (2.) flavovir and quality perfect of their kind ; and 
 (3.) kinds well selected and meritorious. 
 
222 MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 
 
 MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 
 
 In supplementing what has ah'eady been said regarding the 
 soils and manures best adapted to the various plants, we will 
 consider in a general way and briefly the origin and applica- 
 tion of plant food, and its effects on the life and growth of 
 the plant. Chemists tells us that the four primary elements, 
 viz., Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, and Nitrogen form the 
 structure of all plants, and that these simple elements in 
 various combinations and proportions constitute the main 
 body of living organisms as well as of all dead substances in 
 the universe. 
 
 Chemical science has of late done much to enlighteii the 
 horticulturist on the composition of the soil, the constituents 
 of plants, and the ingredients of manure. The success or 
 non-success of the cultivator mainly depends upon his bringing 
 into practical operation the principles laid down by the scientist, 
 and the laws which govern supply and demand. 
 
 The first thing one naturally inquires about when commenc- 
 ing to cultivate any particular plant or crop is, what manure 
 should be applied so that the best results may be obtained ? 
 If he is conversant with the constitution of the plant, the 
 character of its surroundings, and the nature of its food, he 
 can easily supply its wants. But many are in want of this 
 knowledge, which is so essential in the economy of the garden 
 or the field, and the lack of which is soon made manifest 
 by the condition of the crops. The common rule is to apply 
 farmyard manure in greater or less quantities to fertilise 
 soils on which all kinds of crops are to be cultivated. When 
 this manure is collected from all sources, mixed together, and 
 decomposed, it is supposed to contain within itself in certain 
 proportions all the ingredients of which plants are composed, 
 and which they require as food. But farmyard manure alone 
 
MANUKES AND THEIE APPLICATION. 223 
 
 does not contain all the necessary ingredients in tlie required 
 proportions to promote a strong healthy growth through the 
 Various stages and changing conditions of the life of the majo- 
 rity of plants. Analogy between the mode and means of 
 subsistence in the animal and vegetable kingdoms is generally 
 recognised. If the animal be supplied, according to its kind, 
 with nutritious digestible food, containing all the elements re- 
 quired for the formation of bone, muscle, and flesh, a good speci- 
 men should be the result. In like manner plants should have 
 within their reach at the proper time the proportions required 
 of the various elements which go to compose their structure, 
 and the formation of flower, fruit, and seed. Farmyard man- 
 ure being deficient in inorganic substances, such as potash 
 and lime, should not be given alone to root crops, especially 
 when the mineral elements have been withdrawn from the soil 
 by the frequent repetition of crops of the same nature. For 
 example, if potatoes were grown for several years in succession 
 in the same place, the crop would gradually become lighter and 
 inferior in quality. If this system were continued for any 
 length of time, although farmyard manure be abundantly sup- 
 plied, the ground would cease to bear from lack of sufficient 
 mineral to decompose the organic matter. By applying lime, 
 which has the power of liberating by chemical action the fer- 
 tilising properties in vegetable matter, and by returning to the 
 soil the other minerals removed by cropping, fertility is again 
 restored. On the other hand, if inorganic manures be applied 
 to such crops as brassica and pulse, and the soil be deficient in 
 humus, light crops will follow. The one class of manure is 
 entirely dependent upon the presence and action of the other for 
 the conversion of both into a suitable condition for absorption 
 and assimilation by plants, and it is evident that if the mate- 
 rials required for the construction, development, and matura- 
 tion of the plant are not present in sufficient quantities and 
 proportions, the growth will be slow and the parts imperfect. 
 It is, therefore, necessary to apply to the soil the elements in 
 which it is deficient by using artificial manures, most of which 
 are good when properly prepared and unadulterated, and have 
 proved a decided gain to the modern horticulturist. These 
 
s 
 
 :^1'4 MANUKES AMD THEIR APPLICATION. 
 
 manures would be of more value, and could be better utilised 
 by horticulturists, if the ingredients and proportions were gene- 
 rally known. The advantages derived from their use are, first, 
 their easy application either in a dry or a soluble state; second, 
 the choice of ingredients suited to the various crops ; third, 
 the assistance they render to farmyard manure by supplying 
 in a concentrated form to rapid-growing plants the organic and 
 inorganic elements in the exact proportions required. 
 
 A few common garden plants and the special ingredients 
 they require as food may be given. Peas, beans, and all crops 
 grown for their seeds should have manures rich in silicates and 
 phosphates. Potatoes, turnip, and root crops generally should 
 have lime and potash. Cabbage, spinach, and those vegetables 
 cultivated for their leaves should have sulphates and chlorides. 
 Carbonates and phosphates for fruit trees and bushes. Alkalies 
 are always required along with other manurial ingredients. 
 
 These are a few of the more important compounds at the 
 command of the cultivator, the ingredients of which should 
 predominate in all manures applied to the crops or plants men- 
 tioned. They should not, however, be substituted entirely for 
 farmyard manure, but should be given along with it, according 
 to the wants of the crop and the deficiency in the soil of the 
 food-supply for that crop. The atmosphere is an inexhaustible 
 source of food-supply for plants, which is received from the 
 various gases and vapours which surround them. This supply 
 cannot be controlled by the horticulturist further than bj' 
 loosening the surface of the ground, that the nourishing dews 
 may the more readily be absorbed by it, and thus reach the 
 roots of the crop. The loosening the soil is also the means of 
 preventing the rain, which is laden with ammonia and carbonic 
 acid gas, more especially after prolonged drought, from running 
 direct into rents and crevices of the earth, instead of being re- 
 tained by the humus, and the fertilising properties held fast by 
 it, while the pure water is allowed to pass to the drainage. 
 
 The Application of Manures. — Previous to appljdng farm- 
 yard manure, the nature of the soil shoiild be considered. If 
 it be of a close, heavy, and clayey nature, the manure should 
 be applied in a fresh state. If light and sandy, the manure 
 
MANUKES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 225 
 
 should be well decomposed. In tlie former case, the soil is 
 rendered more open to the access of air, with a free passage 
 for any surplus of water. In the latter case, the decomposed 
 manure has just an opposite tendency, and it also keeps the 
 roots cool and moist in warm dry weather, while its fertilising 
 elements are ready for immediate absorption. Manure should 
 not be deeply buried, except for such plants as carrot and par- 
 snip, but should be kept near the surface, in the hope that 
 where the elements of nutrition are, there the roots will 
 be also ; and there is little doubt that if all the materials 
 required by the plants were placed within convenient reach, 
 less root-pruning would be required amongst bushes and fruit- 
 trees. Besides the solid manure, the liquid drainage from 
 the farmyard is of great value. When it is collected in 
 a tank and allowed to ferment and putrefy, its fertilising 
 properties have an immediate effect on vegetation. It should, 
 however, be well diluted before being applied to growing crops. 
 It may be easily spread over unoccupied ground when in a 
 fresh state, and thus prevent the unavoidable loss of volatile 
 gases in the process of fermentation. Decomposed urine from 
 the byre and stable is an excellent manure, owing to the number 
 of fertilising salts it holds in solution. It should be applied 
 to vegetables and all growing plants with care, and when used 
 in fruit-growing, it should be used only in a weak state when 
 the fruit is swelling and the soil exhausted, because of the 
 tendency which an excess of ammonia and nitrogenous sub- 
 stances have to produce gross spongy growth. The error of 
 using stimulating manures without regard to a proper combi- 
 nation of elements may be illustrated by a common practice 
 in agriculture. The farmer may be observed sowing so many 
 hundredweights of nitrate of soda on an acre of his grass fields, 
 and if the weather is moist, the effect, to all appearance, is 
 wonderful ; but if a comparison he made between the stock 
 fed on that part of the field dressed with nitre, and another 
 part which had not received any, the difference will be out of 
 all proportion to that expected, showing clearly that certain 
 manurial substances have the power of increasing the growth 
 of the plant, but cannot impart to it the nutritive elements 
 
226 IIANUKES AND THEIK APPLICATION. 
 
 which sustain the life and growth of the animal. Neither in 
 the process of assimilation can an element suited to one part 
 of the plant be changed to supply any deficiency, or occupy the 
 place of another. Plants in themselves have little or no power 
 to substitute one element for another, to enable them to thrive 
 and grow to perfection. It is the cultivator's part to supply 
 what has not already been provided by Nature for this end. 
 Carbonic acid gas is the principal food of young plants, until 
 the stem is reared and the roots extend, after which a gradual 
 increase in the strength and variety of food should be made, 
 and continued till the leaves develop, when more robust material 
 can be assimilated and appropriated by the different parts of 
 the plant for its own uses, and ultimately to be utilised b}' man. 
 
 Artificial or concentrated manures may be applied to the sur- 
 face of the soil previous to planting or seed-sowing as a first 
 dressing, or they may be slightly forked in ; but for growing- 
 crops they should be watered in, unless when applied in showery 
 weather, when it is better done in the natural way. When it 
 is not convenient to apply these manures to the surface, they 
 should be added to the farm-yard manure, and at once dug in, 
 mixing the whole well with the soil in the operation. 
 
 It is, however, in the culture of pot and other plants grown 
 under glass that the benefits derived from the use of concen- 
 trated manures are most felt and appreciated, as they require 
 more frequent watering than plants in the open air, and the man- 
 ures can be applied in smaller quantities and greater variety 
 at short intervals. This is especially applicable to plants in 
 pots, where the quantity of soil is limited, and where thev 
 are almost entirely dependent upon an artificial supply. The 
 manures can either be spread upon the surface of the soil in 
 the pot previous to watering, or dissolved in the water before 
 being applied, and in every case the effect should be carefully 
 noted for future guidance. It is by closely observing the effect 
 produced by various kinds of manures upon exotic plants that 
 a correct knowledge of their requirements can be ascertained, 
 varieties of the same species often requiring some deviation in 
 the kind or the strength of the nourishment supplied to pro- 
 duce the best results. 
 
MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 'I'll 
 
 These notes on manures are mainly given for the purpose 
 of drawing closer attention to a wide field of useful knowledge, 
 which has still to be largely utilised. The scientist has done 
 his part in opening it up ; it is the province of the practical 
 horticulturist to make the best use of it for the benefit of all. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Abutilon, 45. 
 
 Acacia, 27. 
 
 Acalypha, 15. 
 
 Achimenes, 2. 
 
 Acrophyllum, 27. 
 
 Adiantum, 6t), 73. 
 
 Aerides, 53. 
 
 Agapanthus, 2S. 
 
 AUamanda, 3. 
 
 AUosorus, 73. 
 
 Alocasia, 15. 
 
 Aloysia, 94. 
 
 Alsopbila, 78. 
 
 Amaryllis, 4. 
 
 Angrjecum, .'iJ. 
 
 Annuals, 125, 126. 
 
 Anthurium, 5, 15. 
 
 Antirrhinum, 127. 
 
 Aphelexis, 28. 
 
 Apple, 154. 
 
 Apricot, 157. 
 
 Aralia, 16, 45. 
 
 Araucaria, 46. 
 
 Areca, 86. 
 
 Artichoke, Globe, 197 ; Jerusalem, 
 
 198. 
 Arundo, 46. 
 Asparagus, 198. 
 Aspidistra, 95. 
 Asplenium, 67, 73. 
 Aster, 128. 
 Athyrium, 73. 
 Auricula, 95. 
 Azalea, 29, 97. 
 
 Balsam, 98, 
 
 Bambusa, 46. 
 
 Banana, 158. 
 
 Bean, Broad, 199 ; French, ib. ; 
 
 Runner, 200. 
 Beaucarnea, 46. 
 
 Beet, 200. 
 
 Begonia, 98. 
 
 Berried plants, 84. 
 
 Blechnum, 67, 74, 78. 
 
 Bougainvillea, 5. 
 
 Borecole or Kale, 201. 
 
 Boronia, 29. 
 
 Bouquets and floral arrangements, 
 
 119. 
 Bouvardia, 30. 
 Brainea, 7!'. 
 Bride's bouquet, ii,, 150. 
 British ferns, 72 ct seq. 
 Broccoli, 201. 
 Brussels Sprouts, 202. 
 Buttonhole bouquets, 151. 
 
 Cabbage, 203. 
 
 Caladiuni, 16. 
 
 Calamus, 86. 
 
 Calanthe, 55. 
 
 Calceolaria, 91'. 
 
 Camellia, 30, 1 28. 
 
 Carludovica, 17. 
 
 Carnation, 129. 
 
 Carrot, 203. 
 
 Caryota, 87. 
 
 Cattleya, 55. 
 
 Cauliflower, 204. 
 
 Celery, 205. 
 
 Ceterach, 74. 
 
 Chamsedorea, 87. 
 
 Charaterops, 87. 
 
 Cherry, 159. 
 
 Chrysanthemum, 100, 130. 
 
 Cibotium. See Cyathea and Dick- 
 
 sonia. 
 Cineraria, 104. 
 Cissus, 17. 
 Clerodendron, 6. 
 Cleyera, 47. 
 
230 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Olianthus, 31. 
 
 Olivia. See Imantophylluiu. 
 
 Gobfea, 47. 
 
 Cockscomb, 104. 
 
 Cocos, 87. 
 
 Ccelogyne, 56. 
 
 Conifers, 85. 
 
 Coprosma, 47. 
 
 Cordyline. Sec Uiaceeua. 
 
 Correa, 31. 
 
 Corypha, S'^. 
 
 Crassula, 31. 
 
 Crinum, 6. 
 
 Croton, 18. 
 
 Cucumber, 206. 
 
 Culinary and sweet herbs, '_'jn. 
 
 Currant, 160. 
 
 Cut flowers, 125 et seq. 
 
 Cyanopliyllum, 19. 
 
 Cyathea, 79. 
 
 Cyoas, 48. 
 
 Cyclamen, 105. 
 
 Cymbidium, 57. 
 
 Cypripedium, 57. 
 
 Cytisus, 32. 
 
 Dahlia, 134. 
 Daphne, 32. 
 Dasylirion, 48. 
 Davallia, 68. 
 Delpliinium, 136. 
 Di-ndrobiuni, 57. 
 Deutzia, 106. 
 Dichorizandra, 19. 
 Dicksonia, 79. 
 DiefFenbachia, 20. 
 Dielytra, 106. 
 Dipladenia, 7. 
 Dracfena, 20, 48. 
 Dracophyllum, 33. 
 
 Elaisis, 88. 
 
 Endive, 207. 
 
 Epacris, 33. 
 
 Epergnes, 152. 
 
 Epidendrum, 58. 
 
 Erica, 34. 
 
 Eriostemon, 3.'. 
 
 Encharis, 8. 
 
 Eurya, 49. 
 
 Exhibition plants, ini.scellaneous, 
 
 94 e£ si:q. ; general remarks on, 
 
 121. 
 Exotic ferns, 66 et seq. 
 
 Ferns, exotic, 66 et seq. ; British, 
 
 72 et seq. ; filmy, 75 et seq. ; tree, 
 
 77 et seq. 
 Ficus, 21, 49. 
 Fig, 161. 
 
 Filmy ferns, 75 et seq. 
 Floral arrangements, bouquets and, 
 
 149. 
 Flowering plants, stove, 2 et seq. .. 
 
 greenhouse, 27 et seq. 
 Foliage plants, stove, 16 et seq. 
 Franciscea, 9. 
 Fruit, 153 et seq. 
 Fuchsia, 36. 
 
 Gabdenia, 9. 
 Genetyllis, 35. 
 (4eonoma, 88. 
 Geranium, 107, l-;7. 
 Gladiolus, 137. 
 Gleichenia, 68. 
 Gloxinia, 109. 
 ' Jooseberry, 162. 
 (irape, 163. 
 
 Greenhouse flowers, 138. 
 Grevillea, 49. 
 Groups of plant.s, 1 20. 
 Guelder-rose, 109. 
 Gymnogramma, 69. 
 
 HALif-HAKDY annuals, 125. 
 Hand bouquet, a, 150. 
 Hardy annuals, 126. 
 
 Herbaceous perennials, 139. 
 
 Herbs, culinary ani sweet, 220. 
 
 Hibiscus, 21. 
 
 Hollyhock, 140. 
 
 1 [orse-radish, 2uS. 
 
 Horticultural exhibitions, benefits 
 
 of, ix. et seq. 
 Hoya, 49. 
 Hyacinth, 110. 
 Hydrangea, 50, 111. 
 Hymeniiphyllum, 76. 
 
 iMANTOPHYLLUSr, 36. 
 
 Ixora, 10. 
 
 Oasminum, 10. 
 Judges, electing, xv. 
 .Judging, xix. 51, 65, S2, 85. 
 
 Kkntia, 89. 
 
IXHEX. 
 
 2:^.1 
 
 Ladies' sprays, 151. 
 Laelia, 58. 
 Lapageria, 37. 
 Lasiandra, 38. 
 Lastrea. 69, 74. 
 Latania, 89. 
 Leek, 208. 
 Leschenaultia, 38. 
 Lettuce, 209. 
 Licuala, 89. 
 Lilac, 111. 
 Lilium, 38. 
 
 Lily of the Valley, 112. 
 Livistona, 89. 
 Lomaria, 69, 80. 
 Loniatia, 50. 
 Lyoaste, 59. 
 Lygodium, 70. 
 
 Manures and their application, 
 
 222. 
 Maranta, 21. 
 Masdevallia, 59. 
 Maxillaria, 60. 
 Medinilla, 10. 
 Melon, 175. 
 Mignonette, 112. 
 Miltonia, 60. 
 ■ Musa, 22, 50. 
 Mushroom, 210. 
 
 Narcissus, 113. 
 Nectarine, 179. 
 Nephrodium, 70. 
 Nephrolepis, 70. 
 Neriurn, 39. 
 Nothochlspna, 70. 
 
 Odontoglossum, 60. 
 OncidiuH), 61. 
 Onion, 210. 
 Orange, 179. 
 Orchid, 52 et seq., 141. 
 Oreodoxa, 90. 
 Osmunda, 71. 74, 76. 
 
 Palms, 86 et seq. 
 
 on, 92. 
 Pancratium, 11. 
 Pandanus, 22. 
 Pansy, 142. 
 Parsley, 212. 
 Parsnip, 212. 
 Paulinia, 2?,. 
 
 general remarks 
 
 Pavetta, 2-^'. 
 Pea, 213. 
 Peach, 181. 
 Pear, 184. 
 Pelargonium, 114. 
 Pentstemon, 144. 
 Petunia, 114. 
 Phaius, 62. 
 Phalajnopsis, 02. 
 Philodendron, 23. 
 Phlox, 144. 
 Phcenicophorum, 90. 
 Phoenix, 90. 
 Phormium, 51. 
 Picotee, 144. 
 Pimelea, 40. 
 Pine-apple, 186. 
 Pink, 144. 
 Platyoerium, 71. 
 Pleroma, 40. 
 Plum, 193. 
 Plumbago, 41. 
 Poinsettia, 12. 
 Polyanthus, 115. 
 Polygala, 41. 
 Polypodium, 71, 75. 
 Polystichum, 71, 75. 
 Potato, 213. 
 Primula, 116. 
 Pritchardia, 90. 
 Pteris, 72. 
 Ptychosperma, 91. 
 Pyrethrum, 145. 
 
 Radish, 215. 
 Kaphis, 91. 
 Raspberry, 194. 
 Rhododendron, 41, 117, 145. 
 Ehopala, 24. 
 Rhubarb, 215. 
 Rhynchospermum, 42. 
 Richardia, 117. 
 Rondeletia, 12. 
 Rose, 118, 146. 
 
 Saccolabium, 63. 
 Salad plants, 219. 
 Sanchezia, 24. 
 Savoy, 216. 
 Scolopendrium, 75. 
 Seaforthia, 91. 
 Seakale, 216. 
 Selaginella, 81. 
 Sobralia, 63. 
 
232 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sonerila, 24. 
 Sphcerogyne, 25. 
 Spiraea, 119. 
 Stanhopea, 63. 
 Statice, 43. 
 Stephanotis, 13. 
 Stevensonia, 91. 
 Stock, 148. 
 Stove flowers, 148. 
 Strawberry, 195. 
 
 TABEKNiEMONTAN A, 1 3. 
 
 Table bouquet, a, 151. 
 Table plants, 83 ct scq. 
 Terminalia, 25. 
 Tetratheca, 44. 
 Theophrasta, 25. 
 Thunbergia, 14. 
 Thrinax, 92. 
 Tillandsia, 26. 
 Todea, 76, 81. 
 Tomato, 217. 
 
 Toxicophlfea, 14. 
 Tree ferns, 77 et seq. 
 Trichomanes, 77. 
 Trichopila, 64. 
 Tulip, 119. 
 Turnip, 218. 
 
 Vallota, 44. 
 Vanda, 64. 
 
 Vegetable marrow, 218 
 Vegetables, 197 e« scq. 
 Verschaffeltia, 92. 
 Vinca, 14. 
 Viola, 149. 
 
 Woodsia, 75. 
 Woodwardia, 72. 
 Wreath, a floral, 151 
 
 Yucca, 51. 
 
 Ztgopetalum 65. 
 
 THE END. 
 
CATALOGUE 
 
 OF 
 
 MESSRS BLACKWOOD & SONS' 
 
 PUBLICATIONS. 
 
PHILOSOPHICAL CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS. 
 
 Edited by WILLIAM KNIGHT, LL.D., 
 
 Professor of Moral Pliilosophy in the University of St Andrews. 
 In crown 8vo Volumes, with Portraits, price 3s. 6d. 
 
 Now ready— 
 
 Descartes, by Professor Mahaffy, Dub- 
 lin. — Butler, by Bev. W. Lucas Collins, 
 M.A. — Berkeley, by Professor Campbell 
 Praser, Edinburgh. — Fiohte, by Professor 
 Adamson, Owens College, Manchester. — 
 KANr, by Professor Wallace, Oxford. — 
 Hamelton, by Professor Veitch, Glasgow. 
 — Hegel, by Professor Edward Caird, 
 Glasgow. — Leibniz, by J. Theodore Merz. 
 
 Mill, 
 
 Vioo, by Professor Flint, Edinburgh — 
 HOBBES, by Professor Groom Robertson, 
 London. — Hume, by the Editor.— Spinoza, 
 by the Very Rev. Principal Caird, Glasgow. 
 —Bacon: Part I. The Life by Professor 
 Nichol, Glasgow.— Bacon: Part II. Philo- 
 sophy, by the same Author. — Locke, by 
 Professor Campbell Praser, Edinburgh. 
 
 In preparation. 
 
 FOREIGN CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS. 
 
 Edited by Mrs OLIPHANT. 
 
 In crowu 8vo, 2S. 6d. 
 Contents of the Series. 
 
 Dante, by the Editor. — Voltaire, by 
 General Sir E. B. Hamley, K.C.B. 
 — Pascal, by Principal TuUoch. — Pbt- 
 RAKCH, by Henry Reeve, C.B. — Goethe, 
 By A. Hayward, Q.C. — Moliere, by the 
 Editor and F. Tarver, M.A. — Montaigne, 
 by Rev. W. L. Collins, M.A — Rabelais, 
 by Walter Besant, M.A. — Calderon, by 
 E. J. Hasell. — Saint Simon, by Clifton 
 W. Collins, M.A. — Cebvantes, by the 
 
 Editor. — CoRNEiLLE AND Racine, by 
 Henry M. TroUope, — Madame de 
 Seviqn^, by Miss Thackeray. — La Fon- 
 tainEj and other French Fabulists, 
 by Bev. W. Lucas Collins, M.A. — Schil- 
 ler, by James Sirae, M.A., Author of 
 ' Le.ssing, his Life aud Writings.' — Tasso, 
 by E. .J. Hasell. — Rousseau, by Henry 
 Grey Graham. — Alfred de Musset, by 
 C. P. Oliphant. 
 
 In preparation. 
 Leopardi. ^y the Editor. 
 
 Now Complete. 
 
 ANCIENT CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS. 
 
 Edited by the Rev. W. LUCAS COLLINS, M.A. 
 
 Oomplete in 28 Vols, crowu 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d. each. And may also be had in 
 14 Volumes, strongly and neatly bound, with calf or vellum back, £2^ los. 
 
 Contents of the Series, 
 
 Homer: The Iliad, by the Editor.— 
 Homer: The Odyssey, by the Editor. — 
 Herodotus, by George G. S wayne, M. A. — 
 Xenophon, by Sir Alexander Grant, Bart. , 
 LL.D; — Euripides, by W. B. Donne. — 
 Aristophanes, bythe Editor.— Plato, by 
 Clifton W. Collins, M. A.— Lucian, by the 
 Editor. — EscHYLUS, by the Right Rev. 
 the Bishop of Colombo. — Sophocles, by 
 Clifton W. Collins, M.A. — Hesiod and 
 Theoonis, by the Rev. J. Davies, M.A. — 
 Greek Anthology, by Lord Neaves. — 
 Virgil, by the Editor. — Horace, by Sir 
 Theodore Martin, K.C.B. — Juvenal, by 
 Edward Walford, M.A. — PlAtttus and 
 
 Terence, by the Editor. — The Commen- 
 taries OF C^SAR, by Anthony Trollope. 
 —Tacitus, by W. B. Donne.— Cicero, by 
 the Editor. — Pliny's Letters, by the 
 Rev. Alfred Church, M.A., and the Rev. 
 W. J. Brodribb, M.A.— Livy, by the 
 Editor.— Ovid, by the Rev. A. Church, 
 M. A.— Catullus, Tibullus, and Pro- 
 peetius, by the Rev. Jas. Davies, M.A. 
 — Demosthenes, by the Rev. W. J. 
 Brodribb, M.A. — Aristotle, by Sir Alex- 
 ander Grant, Bart., LL.T).— Thucydides, 
 by the Editor.— Lucretius , by W. H. 
 Mallock, M. A.— Pindar, by the Rev. F. 
 D. Morice, M.A. 
 
 Saturday Review.— *'lt is difficult to estimate too highly the value of such a series 
 as this in giving 'English readers' an insight, exact as far as it goes, into those 
 olden times which are so remote, and yet to many of us so close." 
 
CATALOGUE 
 
 OF 
 
 MESSRS BLACKWOOD & SONS' 
 P UBLICA T 10 NS. 
 
 ALISON. History of Europe. By Sir Archibald Alison, Bart., 
 
 D.C.L. 
 
 1. From the Commeiicement of the French Revolution to the 
 
 Battle of Waterloo. 
 
 LiBRAAT Edition, 14 vols., with Portraits. Demy 8vo, £10, los. 
 Another Edition, in 20 vols, crown 8vo, £6. 
 People's Edition, 13 vols, crown 8vo, £2, iis. 
 
 2. Continuation to the Accession of Louis Napoleon. 
 
 LiBBAKT Edition, 3 vols. Svo, £6, ys. 6d. 
 People's Edition, 8 vols, crown Svo, 34s. 
 
 3. Epitome of Alison's History of Europe. Twenty-ninth 
 
 Thousand, 7S. 6d. 
 
 4. Atlas to Alison's History of Europe. By A. Keith Johnston. 
 
 Library Edition, demy 4to, £3, 3s. 
 People's Edition, 31s. 6d. 
 
 Life of John Duke of Marlborough. With some Account 
 
 of his Contemporaries, and of the War of the Succession. Third Edition. 
 2 vols. Svo. Portraits and Maps, 30s. 
 
 Essays : Historical, Political, and Miscellaneous. 3 vols. 
 
 demy Svo, 45s. 
 
 ACTA SANC,TORUM HIBERNI^ ; Ex Codice Salmanticensi. 
 
 Nunc primum integre edita opera Caroli de Smedt et Joseph: de Backer, 
 e Soc. Jesu, Hagiograpliorum Bollandianorum ; Auctore etSumptus Largiente 
 Joanne Patricio Marchionb Bothae. In One handsome 4to Volume, iDouiid 
 in half roxburghe, £2, 2s. ; in paper wrapper, 31s. 6d. 
 AIRD. Poetical Works of Thomas Aird. Fifth Edition, with 
 Memoir of the Author by the Rev. Jardine Wallace, and Portrait. 
 Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 ALLARDYCE. The City of Sunshine. By Alexander Allar- 
 
 DTCE. Three vols, post Svo, £1, 5s, 6d. 
 
 Memoir of the Honourable George Keith Elphinstone, 
 
 K.B., Viscount Keith of Stonehaven, Marischal, Admiral of the Bed. Svo, 
 with Portrait, Illustrations, and Maps, 21s. 
 
 ALMOND. Sermons by a Lay Head-master. By Hely Hutchin- 
 son Almond, M.A. Oxon. , Head-master of Loretto School. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 ANCIENT CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS. Edited by 
 
 Rev. W. Lucas Collins, M.A, Price 2s. 6d. each. For list of Vols., seepage a. 
 AFTOUN. Lays of the Scottish Cavaliers, and other Poems. By 
 W. Bdmondstodne Aytoon, D.C.L., Professor of Rhetoric and Belles-Lettres 
 in the University of Edinburgh. New Edition. Pcap. Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 Another Edition, being tlie Thirtieth. Fcap. Svo, cloth extra, 7s. 6d. 
 Cheap Edition; Pcap. Svo. Illustrated Cover. Price is. Cloth, is. 3d. 
 
 An Illustrated Edition of the Lays of the Scottish Cavaliers. 
 
 From designs by Sir Noel Paton. Small 4to, in gilt cloth, 21s. 
 
 Bothwell ; a Poem. Third Edition. Fcap. 7?. 6d. 
 
 . Poems and Ballads of Goethe. Translated by Professor 
 
 Aytotin and Sir Theodore Martin, li.C.B. Third Edition. Fcap., 6s. 
 
LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 AYTOUK. Bon Gaultier's Book of Ballads. By the Same. Fifteenth 
 
 Edition. Witli Illustrations by Doyle, Leech, and Crowquill. Pcap. 8vo, 5s. 
 The Ballads of Scotland. Edited by Professor Aytoun. 
 
 Fourth Edition, z vols. fcap. 8vo, 12s. 
 
 Memoir of William E. Aytoun, D.C.L. By Sir Thbodoke 
 
 Maetin, K.C.B. With Portrait. Post 8vo, 12s. 
 BACH. On Musical Education and Vocal Culture. By Albert 
 
 B. Bach. Fourth Edition. 8vo, 73. 6d, 
 The Principles of Singing. A Practical Guide for Vocalists 
 
 and Teachers. With Course of Vocal Exercises. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 The Art of Singing. With Musical Exercises for Young 
 
 People. Crown 8vo, 3s. 
 
 The Art Ballad : Loews and Schubert. With Music IUue- 
 
 trations. With a Portrait of Loewe. Third Edition. Small 4to. 5s. 
 
 BALLADS AND POEMS. By Mbmbeks of the Glasgow 
 
 Ballad Club. Crown Bvo, 7s. 6d 
 BANNATYNE. Handbook of Republican Institutions in the 
 United States of America. Based upon Federal and State Laws, and other 
 reliable sources of information. By Dugald J. Bannatyne, Scotch Solicitor, 
 New York ; Member of the Faculty of Procurators, Glasgow. Cr. 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 BELLAIES. The Transvaal War, 1880-81. Edited by Lady Bel- 
 lairs. With a Frontispiece and Map. 8vo, 15s. 
 
 Gossips with Girla and Maidens, Betrothed and Free. 
 
 New Edition. Crown Bvo, 3s. 6d. Cloth, extra gilt edges, 5s. 
 
 BESANT. The Revolt of Man. By Walter Besant, M.A. 
 
 Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Readings in Rabelais. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 BEVERIDGE. Culross and T^illiallan; or Perthshire on Forth. Its 
 
 History and Antictnities. With Elucidations of Scottish Life and Character 
 from the Burgh and Kirk-Session Records of that District. By David 
 Beveridge. 2 vols. Bvo, with Illustrations, 42s. 
 
 Between the Ochils and the Forth ; or, From Stirling 
 
 Bridge to Aberdour. Crown Bvo, 6s. 
 
 BLACK. Heligoland and the Islands of the North Sea. By 
 
 William George Black. Crown 8vo, 4s. 
 
 BLACKIE. Lays and Legends of Ancient Greece. By John 
 Stuart Blaokie, Emeritus Professor of Greek in the University of Edin- 
 burgh. Second Edition. Fcap, Bvo. 5s. 
 
 The Wisdom of Goethe. Fcap. 8vo. Cloth, extra gilt, 6s. 
 
 Scottish Song : Its Wealth, Wisdom, and Social Signifi- 
 cance. Crown Bvo. With Music. 7s. 6d. 
 
 A Song of Heroes. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, from Commencement in 1817 to 
 
 April 1892. Nos. I to 918, forming 150 Volumes. 
 
 Index to Blackwood's Magazine. Vols, i to 50. 8vo, 15s. 
 
 BLACKWOOD. Tales from Blackwood. Price One Shilling each, 
 in Paper Cover. Sold separately at aU Railway Bookstalls. 
 They may also be had bound in cloth, iBs., and in half calf, richly gilt, 30s. 
 Or 12 volumes in 6, roxburghe, 21s., and half red morocco, 28s. 
 Tales from Blackwood. New Series. Complete in Twenty- 
 four Shilling Parts. Handsomely bound in 12 vols., cloth, 30S. In leather 
 back, roxburghe style, 37s. 6d. In half calf, gilt. 52s. 6d. In half morocco, S5S. 
 
 Tales from Blackwood. Third Series. Complete in 6 
 
 vols. Handsomely bound in cloth, 15s. ; orini2vols. iBs. Bound in roxburghe, 
 21s. Half calf, 253 Half morocco, 28s. Also in 12 parts, price is. each. 
 
 Travel, Adventure, and Sport. From ' Blackwood's 
 
 Magazine.' Uniform with ' Tales from Blackwood.' In Twelve Parts, each 
 price IS. Or handsomely bound in 6 vols., 153. Half calf, 25s. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 5 
 
 BLACKWOOD. New Uniform Series of Three-and- Sixpenny Novels 
 (Copyright). Crown 8vo, cloth. Now ready : — 
 " " " " ' HuRRisH. By the Hon. Emily Lawless. 
 
 The Blacksmith of Voe. By Paul 
 
 Gushing. 
 The Dilemma. By the Author of 'The 
 
 Battle of Dorking.' 
 Mt Trivial Life and Misfortune. By 
 
 A Plain Woman. 
 Poor Nellie. By the Same. 
 Piccadilly. By Laurence Oliphant. With 
 Illustrations. 
 Others in preparation. 
 Standard Novels. Uniform in size and legibly Printed. 
 
 Reata. By B. D. Gerard. 
 Beooar my Neighbode. By the Same. 
 The Waters of Hercules. By the Same. 
 Sons and Daughters. By Mrs Oliphant. 
 Fair to See. By L. W. M. Lockhart. 
 The Betolt OF Man. By Walter Besant. 
 Mine IS Thine. By L. W. M. Lockhart. 
 Altiora Peto. By Laurence Oliphant 
 Doubles and Quits. By L. W. M. Lockhart. 
 Lady Baby. By D. Gerai'd, 
 
 Each Novel complete in one volume . 
 FLOSIN SERIES, Illustrated Boards. Or in New Cloth Binding, zs. 6d. 
 
 Tom Cringle's Loo. By Michael Scott, 
 The Cruise OF THE Midge. By the Same. 
 Cyril Thornton. By Captain Hamilton. 
 Annals of the Parish. By John Gait. 
 The Provost, &c. By John Gait. 
 Sir Andrew Wylie. By John Gait. 
 The Entail. By John Gait. 
 Miss Molly. By Beatrice May Butt. 
 Reginald Dalton. By J. G. Lockhart. I 
 
 Pen Owen. By Dean Hook. 
 
 Adam Blair. By J. G. Lockhart. 
 
 Lady Lee's Widowhood. By General 
 Sir E. B. Hamley. 
 
 Salem Chapel. By Mrs Oliphant. 
 
 The Perpetual Curate. By Mrs Oli- 
 phant. 
 
 Miss Marjoribanks. By Mrs Oliphant. 
 
 John : A Love Story. By Mrs Oliphant. 
 
 SHILLING SERIES, Illustrated Cover. Or in New Cloth Binding, is. 6d. 
 
 The Rector, and The Doctor's Family. 
 
 By Mrs Oliphant. 
 The Life of Mansie Wauch. By D. M. 
 
 Morr. 
 Peninsulas Scenes and Sketches. By 
 
 F. Hardman. 
 
 Sir Frizzle Pdmpkin, Nights at Mess 
 
 &o. 
 The Subaltern. 
 
 Life in the Far West. By G. P. Euxton . 
 Valerius : A Roman Story. By J. G. 
 
 Lockhart. 
 
 BLACKMORE. The Maid of Sker. By E. D. Blackmoee, Author 
 
 of * Loma Doone,' &c. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BLAIR. History of the Catholic Church of Scotland. From the 
 Introduction of Christianity to the Present Day. By Alphons Bellesbeim, 
 D.D., Canon of Aix-la-Chapelle. Translated, with Notes and Additions, by 
 D. Oswald Hunter Blair, O.S.B., Monk of Fort Augustus. Complete in 
 4 vols, demy 8vo, with Maps. Price r2S. 6d. each. 
 
 BONNAR. Biographical Sketch of George Meikle Kemp, Architect 
 of the Scott Monument, Edinburgh. By Thomas Bonnah, F.S.A. Scot, 
 Author of ' The Present Art Revival,' ' The Post of Art in Scotland,' ' Sugges- 
 tions for the Picturesque of Interiors,' &c. With Three Portraits and numerous 
 Illustrations. In One Volume, post 8vo. 
 
 BOSCOBEL TRACTS. Relating to the Escape of Charles the 
 
 Second after the Battle of Worcester, and his subsequent Adventures . Edited 
 by J. Hughes, Esq., A.M. A New Edition, with additional Notes and Illus- 
 trations, including Communications from the Rev. R. H. Barham, Author of 
 the ' Ingoldsby Legends.' 8vo, with Engravings, i6s. 
 
 BROUGHAM. Memoirs of the Life and Times of Henry Lord 
 Brougham. Written by Himself. 3 vols. 8vo, £1, 8s. The Volumes are sold 
 separately, price i6s. each. 
 
 BROWN. The Forester : A Practical Treatise on the Planting, 
 Rearing, and General Management of Forest-trees. By James Brown, LL.D., 
 Inspector of and Reporter on Woods and Forests. Fifth Edition, revised and 
 enlarged. Royal 8vo, with Engravings, 36s. 
 
 BROWN. A Manual of Botany, Anatomical and Physiological. 
 For the Use of Students. By Robert Brown, M.A., Ph.D. Crown 8vo, with 
 numerous Illustrations, 12s. 6d. 
 
 BRUCE. In Clover and Heather. Poems by Wallace Beuce. 
 New and Enlarged Edition. Crown 8vo, 4s." 6d. 
 A limited number 0/ Copies of the First Edition, on large hand-made paper, 12s. 6d. 
 
 BRYDALL. Art in Scotland ; its Origin and Progress. By Robert 
 Brydall MasterofStGeorge's Art School of Glasgow. Svo, 12s. 6d. 
 
LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 BUOHAN. Introductory Text-Book of Meteorology. By Alex- 
 ander BccHAN, M.A., F.R.S.E., Secretary of the Scottish Meteorological 
 Society, &c. Crown 8vo, with 8 Coloured Charts and Engravings, 4s. 6d. 
 
 BUCHANAN. The Shirfe Highlands (East Central Africa). By 
 John Buchanan, Planter at Zomba. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 BURBIDGE. Domestic Floriculture, Window Gardening, and 
 
 Floral Decorations. Being practical directions for the Propagation, Culture, 
 and Arrangement of Plants and Flowers as Domestic Ornaments. By F. yi . 
 Btjrbidge. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. with numerous Illustrations, 7s. 6d, 
 
 Cultivated Plants : Their Propagation and Improvement. 
 
 Including Natural and Artificial Hybridisation, Raising from Seed, Cuttings , 
 and Layers, Grafting and Budding, as applied to the Families and Genera in 
 Cultivation. Crown 8vo, with numerous Illustrations, 12s. 6d. 
 BURTON. The History of Scotland : From Agricola's Invasion to 
 
 the Extinction of the last Jacobite Insurrection. By John Hill Burton, 
 D.C.L., Historiographer-Eoyal for Scotland. New and Enlarged Edition, 
 8 vols., and Index. Crown 8vo, ;^3, 3s. 
 
 History of the British Empire during the Keign of Queen 
 
 Anne. In 3 vols. 8vo. 36s. 
 
 The Scot Abroad. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 The Book- Hunter. New Edition. With Portrait. Crown 
 
 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 BUTE. The Roman Breviary : Reformed by Order of the Holy 
 
 CBeumenical Council of Trent; Published by Order of Pope St Pius V.; and 
 Revised by Clement VIII. and Urban VIH.; together with the Offices since 
 granted. Translated out of Latin into English by John, Marquess of Bute, 
 K.T. In 2 vols, crown 8vo, cloth boards, edges uncut. ;£2, as. 
 
 The Altus of St Columba. With a Prose Paraphrase and 
 
 Notes. In paper cover, 2s. 6d. 
 
 BUTLER. Pompeii : Descriptive and Picturesque. By W. 
 
 Butler. Post 8vo, 53. 
 
 BUTT. Miss Molly. By Beatrice May Butt. Cheap Edition, 2 s. 
 Ingelheim. A Novel. 3 vols, crown 8 vo, 25s. 6d. 
 
 Eugenie. Crown 8vo, 6s. 6d. 
 
 Elizabeth, and Other Sketches. Crown 8vo, 6?. 
 
 Novels. New and Uniform Edition. Crown 8vo, each 2s. 6d. 
 
 Delicia. Now ready. 
 CAIRD. Sermons. By John Caird, D.D., Principal of the Uni- 
 versity of Glasgow. Sixteenth Thousand. Fcap. 8vo, ss. 
 
 Religion in Common Life. A Sermon preached in Crathie 
 
 Church, October 14, 1855, before Her Majesty the Queen and Prince Albert. 
 Published by Her Majesty's Command. Cheap Edition, 3d. 
 
 CALDER. Chaucer's Canterbury Pilgrimage. Epitomised by 
 
 William Caldee. With Photogravure of the Pilgrimage Company, and other 
 Illustrations, Glossary, &c. Crown 8vo, 4s. 
 
 CAMPBELL. Critical Studies in St Luke's Gospel : Its Demonology 
 
 and Ebionitism. By Colin Campbell, B.D., Minister of the Parish of Dun- 
 dee, formerly Scholar and Fellow of Glasgow XJiiirersity. Author of the ' Three 
 First Gospels in Greek, arranged in parallel columns. Post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 CAMPBELL. Sermons Preached before the Queen at Balmoral. 
 By the Rev. A. A. Campbell, Minister of Crathie. Published by Command 
 of Her Majesty. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 CAMPBELL. Records of Argyll. Legends, Traditions, and Re- 
 collections of Argyllshire Highlanders, collected chiefly from the Gaelic 
 With Notes on the Antiquity of the Dress, Clan Colours or Tartans of the 
 Highlanders, By Lord Archibald Campbell. Illustrated with Nineteen 
 full-page Etchings. 4to, printed on hand-made paper, £3, 3s. 
 
 CANTON, A Lost Epic, and other Poems. By William Canton. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 7 
 
 CARRICK. Koumiss ; or, Fermented Mare's Milk : and its Uses 
 in the Treatment and Cure of Pulmonary Consumption, and other Wasting 
 Diseases. With an Appendix on the best Methods of Fermenting Cow's Milk. 
 By George L. Oabriok, M.D., L.B.C.S.B. and L.R.O.P.E., Physician to the 
 British Embassy, St Petersburg, &c. Crown 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 CAESTAIRS. British Work in India. By R. Caestairs. Cr. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 (JAUVIN. A Treasury of the English and German Languages. 
 Compiled from the best Authors and Lexicographers in both Languages. 
 By Joseph Catjvin, LL.D. and Ph.D., of the University of Gottingen, &c. 
 Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 CAVE-BROWN. Lambeth Palace and its Associations. By J. 
 Cave-Brown, M. A., Vicar of Detling, Kent, and for many years Curate of Lam- 
 beth Parish Church. With an Introduction by the Archbishop of Canterbury . 
 Second Edition, containing an additional Chapter on Medieval Life in the 
 Old Palaces. 8vo, with Illustrations, 21s. 
 
 CHARTERIS. Oanonicity ; or, Early Testimonies to the Existence 
 and Use of the Books of the New Testament. Based on Kirchhofifer's * Quel- 
 lensammlung. ' Edited by A. H. Charteris, D.D., Professor of Biblical 
 Criticism in the University of Edinburgh. 8vo, i8s. 
 
 CHRISTISON. Life of Sir Robert Cbristison, Bart., M.D., D.C.L. 
 Oxon., Professor of Medical Jurisprudence in the University of Edinburgh. 
 Edited by his Sons. In two vols. 8vo. Vol.1. — Autobiography. i6s. Vol.11. 
 — Memoirs. i6s. 
 
 CHRONICLES OF WESTERLY: A Provincial Sketch. By the 
 Author of ' Culrashire Folk,' ' John Orlebar,' &c. 3 vols, crown 8vo, 25s. 6d. 
 
 CHURCH SERVICE SOCIETY. A Book of Common Order : 
 Being Forms of Worship issued by the Church Service Society. Sixth Edi- 
 tion. Crown, 8vo, 6s. Also in 2 vols, crown Svo, 6s. 6d. 
 
 CLOUSTON. Popular Tales and Fictions ; their Migrations and 
 Transformations. By W. A. Clouston. Editor of ' Ai'abian Poetry for Eng- 
 lish Beaders,' &c. 2 vols, post Svo, roxburghe binding, 25s. 
 
 COCHRAN. A Handy Text-Book of MUitary Law. Compiled 
 chiefly to assist Ofiicers preparing for Examination ; also for all Officers of 
 the Regular and Auxiliary Forces. Comprising also a Synopsis of part of 
 the Army Act. By Major F. Cochran, Hampshire Regiment Garrison In- 
 structor, North British District. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 COLQUHOUN. The Moor and the Loch. Containing Minute 
 Instructions in all Highland Sports, with Wanderings over Crag and Corrie, 
 Flood and Fell. By John Colquhouk. Seventh Edition. With Illustra- 
 tions. Svo, 21S. 
 
 COTTERILL. Suggested Reforms in Public Schools. By C. C. 
 
 CoTTERiLL, M.A. Crown Svo, ss. 6d. 
 
 CRANSTOUN. The Elegies of Albius TibuUus. Translated into 
 
 English Verse, with Life of the Poet, and Illustrative Notes. By James Cran- 
 STOUN, LL.D., Author of a Translation of ' Catullus.' Crown Svo, 6s. 6d. 
 
 The Elegies of Sextus Propertius. Translated into English 
 
 Verse, with Life of the Poet, and Illustrative Notes. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 CRAWFORD. Saracinesca. By F. Marion Crawford, Author of 
 
 ' Mr Isaacs,' ' Dr Claudius,' ' Zoroaster,' &c. &c. Fifth Ed. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 CRAWFORD. The Doctrine of Holy Scripture respecting the 
 
 Atonement. By the late Thomas J. Crawford, D.D. , Professor of Divinity in 
 
 the University of Edinburgh. Fifth Edition. Svo, 12s. 
 • The Fatherhood of God, Considered in its General 
 
 and Special Aspects. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Svo, 9s. 
 
 The Preaching of the Cross, and other Sermons. Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 The Mysteries of Christianity. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 CRAWFORD. An Atonement of East London, and other Poems. 
 
 By Howard Cr.^wford, M.A. Crown Svo, "^s. 
 
 GUSHING. The Blacksmith of Voe. By Paul Cushing, Author 
 
 of ' The Bull i' th' Thorn.' Cheap Edition. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Cut with his own Diamond. A Novel. 3 vols. cr. Svo, 25s. 6d. 
 
LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 DAVIES. Norfolk Broada and Rivers ; or, The Waterways, Lagoons, 
 
 and Decoys of East Anglia. By G. Christophee. Davies. Illustrated with. 
 Seven full-page Plates. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Our Home in Aveyron. Sketches of Peasant Life in 
 
 Aveyron and the Lot. By G. Christopher Davies and Mrs Broughall. 
 Illustrated with full- page Illustrations. Svo, iss. Cheap Edition, 7s. 6d. 
 
 DAYNE. Tribute to Satan. A Novel. By J. Belford Daynb, 
 
 Author of ' In the Name of the Tzar.' Crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 DE LA WARR. An Eastern Cruise in the 'Edeline.' By the 
 Countess De la Warr. In Illustrated Cover. 2s. 
 
 DESCARTES. The Method, Meditations, and Principles of Philo- 
 sophy of Descartes. Translated from the Original French and Latin. With a 
 New Introductory Essay, Historical and Critical, on the Cartesian Philosophy. 
 By Professor Veitch, LL.D., Glasgow University. Ninth Edition. 6s. 6d. 
 
 DICKSON. Gleanings from Japan. By W. G. Dickson, Author 
 
 of ' Japan ; Being a Sketch of its History, Government, and Officers of the 
 Empire.' With Illustrations. Svo, i6s. 
 
 DOGS, OUR DOMESTICATED : Their Treatment in reference 
 
 to Food, Diseases, Habits, Punishment, Accomplishments. By 'Magenta,' 
 Crown Svo. 2s. 6d. 
 
 DOMESTIC EXPERIMENT, A. By the Author of *Ideala: A 
 
 study from Life.' Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 DB, HEEMIONE. By the Author of 'Lady Bluebeard; 'Zit and 
 
 Xoe.' Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 DU CANE. The Odyssey of Homer, Books I. -XII. Translated into 
 
 English Verse. By Sir Chaeles Du Cane, K.C.M.G. Svo, los. 6d. 
 
 DUDGEON. History of the Edinburgh or Queen's Regiment 
 
 Light Infantry Militia, now 3rd Battalion The Royal Scots; with an 
 Account of the Origin and Progress of the Militia, and a Brief Sketch of the 
 old Royal Scots. By Major R. 0. Dcdgeoh, Adjutant 3rd Battalion The Royal 
 Scots. Post Svo, with Illustrations, los. 6d. 
 
 DUNCAN. Manual of the General Acts of Parliament relating to 
 
 the Salmon Fisheries of Scotland from 1828 to 18S2. By J. Babker Duhoan. 
 Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 DUNSMOEE. Manual of the Law of Scotland as to the Relations 
 between Agricultural Tenants and their Landlords, Servants, Merchants, and 
 Bowers. By W. Dunsmore, Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 DUPRE. Thoughts on Art, and Autobiographical Memoirs of 
 
 Giovanni Duprfe. Translated from the Italian by E. M. Peruzzi, with the 
 
 permission of the Author. New Edition. With an Introduction' by W. W. 
 
 Story. Crown Svo, los. 6d. 
 ELIOT. George Eliot's Life, Related in her Letters and Journals. 
 
 Arranged and Edited by her husband, J. W. Cross. With Portrait and other 
 
 Illustrations. Third Edition. 3 vols, post Svo, 42s. 
 George Eliot's Life. (Cabinet Edition.) With Portrait 
 
 and other Illustrations.^ 3 vols, crown Svo, 15s. 
 
 George Eliot's Life. With Portrait and other Illustrations. 
 
 New Edition, in one volume. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Works of George Eliot (Cabinet Edition). Handsomely 
 
 printed in a new type, 21 volumes, crown Svo, price £s, 5s. The Volumes 
 are also sold separately, price 5s. each, viz, : — 
 
 Romola. 2 vols. — Silas Marner, The Lifted Veil, Brother Jacob, i vol.— 
 Adam Bede. 2 vols. — Scenes of Clerical Life. 2 vols.— The Mill on the Floss. 
 2 vols. — Felix Holt. 2 vols. — Middlemarch. 3 vols.— Daniel Deronda. 3 
 vols.— The Spanish Gypsy, i vol.— Jubal, and other Poems, Old and New. 
 I vol. — Theophrastus Such, i vol.— Essays, i vol. 
 
 Novels by Gbokge Eliot. Cheap Edition. Adam Bede. Il- 
 
 lustrated. 3s. 6d., cloth. — The Mill on the Floss. Illustrated. 3s. 6d., cloth. 
 —Scenes of Clerical Life. Illustrated. 3s., cloth. — SilasMarner: theWeaver 
 of Raveloe. Illustrated. 2s. 6d., clotli. — Felix Holt, the Radical. Illus- 
 trated. 3s. 6d., cloth.— Romola. With Vignette. 3s. 6d., cloth. 
 
 Middlemarch. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 9 
 
 ELIOT. Daniel Deronda. Crown 8vo, ys. 6d. 
 
 Essays. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 Impressions of Theophrastiis Such. New Ed. Cr. 8vo, 5s. 
 
 The Spanish Gypsy. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 58. 
 
 The Legend of Jubal, and other Poems, Old and New. 
 
 New Edition. Ci'own 8vo, 5s. 
 
 Wise, Witty, and Tender Sayings, in Prose and Verse. 
 
 Selected from the Works of George BuoT. Eighth Edition. Pcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 The George Eliot Birthday Book. Printed on fine paper, 
 
 with red border, and handsomely bound in cloth, gilt. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 3s. 6d . 
 And in French morocco or Russia, 5s. 
 
 ESSAYS ON SOCIAL SUBJECTS. Originally published in the 
 
 ' Saturday Review.* New Ed. First & Second Series. 2 vols. cr. 8vo, 6s. each. 
 EWALD. The Crown and its Advisers ; or. Queen, Ministers, 
 
 Lords and Commons. By Alexander Charles Ewald F S. A. CrownSvo, 5s. 
 FAITHS OF THE WORLD, The. A Concise History of the 
 
 Great Eeligious Systems of the World. By various Authors. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 FARRER. A Tour in Greece in 1880. By Richard Ridley 
 
 Farrer. With Twenty -seven full -page Illustrations by Lord Windsor. 
 Royal 8vo, with a Map, 21s. 
 
 FERRIER. Philosophical Works of the late James F. Ferrier, 
 B. A. Oxon. , Professor of Moral Philosophy and Political Economy, St Andrews. 
 New Edition. Edited by Sir Alex. Grant, Bart., D.C.L., and Professor 
 LnSHlNGTON. 3 vols, crown 8vo, 34s. 6d. 
 
 Institutes of Metaphysic. Third Edition. los. 6d. 
 
 Lectures on the Early Greek Philosophy. 3d Ed. los. 6d. 
 
 Philosophical Remains, including the Lectures on Early 
 
 Greek Philosophy. 2 vols., 24s. 
 
 FITZROY. Dogma and the Church of England. By A. I. FitzRot. 
 
 Post 8vo, 7S. 6d. 
 
 FLINT. The Philosophy of History in Europe. By Robert 
 Flint, D.D. , LL.D., Professor of Divinity, University of Edinburgh. 2 vols. 
 8vo. [New Edition in preparation. 
 
 Theism. Being the Baird Lecture for 1876. Eighth Edi- 
 tion. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Anti-Theistic Theories. Being the Baird Lecture for 1877. 
 
 Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 Agnosticism. Being the Croall Lectures for 1887-88. 
 
 [In the press. 
 
 FORBES. Insulinde : Experiences of a Naturalist's Wife in the 
 Eastern Archipelago. By Mrs H. O. Forbes. Crown 8vo, with a Map. 4s. 6d. 
 
 FOREIGN CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS. Edited 
 
 by Mrs Oliphant. Price 2s. 6d. For List of Volumes published, see page 2. 
 
 FOSTER. The Fallen City, and Other Poems. By Will Foster. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 FRANCILLON. Gods and Heroes ; or. The Kingdom of Jupiter. 
 
 By R. E. Francillon. With 8 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 FULLARTON. Merlin : A Dramatic Poem. By Ralph Macleod 
 
 Pullarton. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 GALT. Novels by John Galt. Fcap. Svo, boards, 2s. ; cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 Annals of the Parish. — The Provost. — Sir Andrew Wylie. — 
 The Entail. 
 GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 Prayers for Social and Family Worship. Prepared by a 
 
 Special Committee of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. En- 
 tirely New Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Fcap. Svo, red edges, 2s. 
 
 Prayers for Family Worship. A Selection from the com- 
 
 plete book. Fcap. Svo, red edges, price is. 
 
10 LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF THE CHUECH OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 Scottish Hymnal, with Appendix Incorporated. Pub- 
 lished for Use in Churches by Authority of the General Assembly, i. Large 
 type, cloth, red edges, 2S. 6d. ; French morocco, 4s. 2. Bourgeois type, limp 
 cloth, IS.; French morocco, 2s. 3. Nonpareil type, cloth, red edges, 6d. ; 
 French morocco, is. 4d. 4. Paper covers, 3d. 5. Sunday- Schoo^ Edition, 
 paper covers, id. No. i, bound with the Psalms and Paraphrases, French 
 morocco, 8s. No. 2, bound with the Psalms and Paraphrases, cloth, 2a. ; 
 French morocco, 3s. 
 
 GERARD. Reata: What's in a Name. By E. D. GBRABr. 
 
 Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Beggar my Neighbour. Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 The Waters of Hercules. Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 GERARD. The Land beyond the Forest. Facts, Figures, and 
 
 Fancies from Transylvania. By B. Gekabd. In Two Volumes. With Maps 
 and Illustrations. 25s. 
 
 Bis : Some Tales Retold. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 A Secret Mission. 2 vols, crown 8vo, 17s. 
 
 GERARD. Lady Baby. By Doeothea Gerard, Author of 
 
 ' Orthodox.' Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Recha. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 GERARD. Stonyhurst Latin Grammar. By Rev. John Gerard. 
 
 [New Edition in preparation. 
 
 GILL. Free Trade : an Inquiry into the Nature of its Operation. 
 
 By Richard Gill. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Free Trade u.nder Protection. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 GOETHE'S FAUST. Translated into English Verse by Sir Theo- 
 dore Martin, K.C.B. Part I. Second Edition, post 8vo, 6s. Ninth Edi- 
 tion, fcap., 3s. 6d. Part II. Second Edition, revised. Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 GOETHE. Poems and Ballads of Goethe. Translated by Professor 
 
 Aytoun and Sir Theodore Martin, K.C.B. Third Edition, fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 GOODALL. Juxta Crucem. Studies of the Love that is over us. 
 
 By the late Rev. Charles Goodall, B.D., Minister of Barr. With a Memoir 
 by Rev. Dr Strong, Glasgow, and Portrait. Crown 8vo. 6s. 
 
 GORDON GUMMING. Two Happy Years in Ceylon. By C. F. 
 
 Gordon Gumming. With 15 full-page Illustrations and a Map. Fourth Edi- 
 tion. 2 vols. 8vo, 30S. 
 
 At Home in Fiji. Fourth Edition, post 8vo. With Illus- 
 trations and Map. 75. 6d. 
 
 A Lady's Cruise in a French Man-of-War. New and 
 
 Cheaper Edition. 8vo. With Illustrations and Map. r2S. 6d. 
 
 Fire-Fountains. The Kingdom of Hawaii : Its Volcanoes, 
 
 and the History of its Missions. With Map and Illustrations. 2 vols.8vo,25S. 
 
 Wanderings in China. New and Cheaper Edition. 8vo, 
 
 with Illustrations, los. 
 
 Granite Crags : The Yo-semite Region of California. Il- 
 lustrated with 8 Engravings. New and Cheaper Edition. 8vo, 8s. 6d 
 GRAHAM. The Life and Work of Syed Ahmed Khan, C.S.I. 
 
 By Lieut. -Colonel G. F. I. Graham, B.S.C. 8vo, 14s 
 
 GRAHAM. Manual of the Elections (Scot.) (Corrupt and Illegal 
 
 Practices) Act, 1890. With Analysis, Relative Act of Sederunt, Appendix 
 containing the Corrupt Practices Acts of 1883 and 1885, and Copious Index. 
 By J. Edward Graham, Advocate. 8vo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 GRANT. Bush-Life in Queensland. By A. C. Grant. New 
 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 GRIFFITHS. Locked Up. By Major Arthur Griffiths, 
 
 Authorof* The Wrong Road,' 'Chronicles of Newgate,' <Sic. "With Illustrations 
 by C. J. Stantland, R.I. Crown 8vn. 2s. 6d. 
 
 GUTHRIE-SMITH. Crispus : A Drama. By H. Guthrie-Smith. 
 
 In one voluioe, Fcap, 4to, 5s. 
 
"WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. H 
 
 HAINES. Unless ! A Romance. By Randolph Haines. Crown 
 
 8?0, 6s. 
 
 HALDANE. Subtropical Cultivations and Climates. A Handy 
 Book for Planters, Colonists, and Settlers. By B. C. Haldane. Post 8vo, gs. 
 
 HALLETT. A Thousand Miles on an Elephant in the Shan States. 
 By Holt S. Hallett, M. Inst. C.E., F.R.G.S., M.R.A.S., Hon. Member Man- 
 cliester and Tyneside Geographical Societies. 8vo, with Maps and numerous 
 Illustrations, 21s. 
 
 HAMERTON. Wenderholme r A Story of Lancashire and York- 
 shire Life, By Philip Gilbert Hamerton, Author of 'A Painter's Camp.' A 
 New Edition. Crown Bvo, 68. 
 
 HAMILTON. Lectures on Metaphysics. By Sir William Hamil- 
 ton, Bart., Professor of Logic and Metaphysics in the University of Edinburgh. 
 Edited by the Rev. H, L. Hansel, B.D., LL.D., Pean of St Paul's ; and John 
 Veitoh, M.A., LL.D., Professor of Logic and Ebetoric, Glasgow. Seventh 
 Edition. 2 vols. 8vo, 24s. 
 
 Lectures on Logic. Edited by the Same. Third Edition . 
 
 2 vols., 24s. 
 
 Discussions on Philosophy and Literature, Education and 
 
 University Reform. Third Edition, 8vo, 2ts. 
 
 Memoir of Sir William Hamilton, Bart., Professor of Logic 
 
 and Metaphysics in the University of Edinburgh. By Professor Veitoh, of the 
 University of Glasgow. 8vo, with Portrait, i8s. 
 
 Sir William Hamilton : The Man and his Philosophy. 
 
 Two Lectures delivered before the Edinburgh Philosophical Institution, 
 January and February 1883. By the Same. Crown 8vo, 2S. 
 
 HAMLEY. The Operations of War Explained and Illustrated. By 
 General SirEowAED Bruce Hamley, K. C.B., K.C.M.G., M.P. Fifth Edition, 
 revised throughout. 4to, with numerous Illustrations, 30s. 
 
 National Defence ; Articles and Speeches. Post 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Shakespeare's Funeral, and other Papers. Post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Thomas Carlyle : An Essay. Second Ed. Cr. 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 On Outposts. Second Edition. 8vo, 2S. 
 
 Wellington's Career ; A Military and Political Summary. 
 
 Crown 8vo. 2s. 
 
 Lady Lee's Widowhood. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Our Poor Relations. A Philozoic Essay. With Illus- 
 
 trations, chiefly by Ernest Griset Crown Bvo, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. 
 
 HAMLEY. Guilty, or Not Guilty 1 A Tale. By Major-General 
 W. G. Hamley, late of the Royal Engineers. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 HARRISON. The Scot in Ulster. The Story of the Scottish 
 Settlement in Ulster. By John Harrison, Author of ' Cure Tounis Col- 
 ledge." Crown Bvo, 2S. 6d. 
 
 HASELL. Bible Partings. By E. J. Hasell. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Short Family Prayers. Cloth, is. 
 
 HAY. The Works of the Eight Rev. Dr George Hay, Bishop of 
 
 Edinburgh. Edited under the Supervision of the Eight Rev. Bishop Stkain. 
 
 With Memoir and Portrait of the Author. 5 vols, crown Bvo, bound in cxtr.'. 
 
 cloth, £1, IS. The following Volumes may be had separately— viz. : 
 
 The Devout Christian Instructed in the Law of Christ from the Written Word. 2 
 
 vols., 8s.— The Pious Christian Instructed in the Nature and Practice of the Principal 
 
 Exercises of Piety, t vol. ,3s. , -, ,. , 
 
 HEATLEY. The Horse-Owner's Safeguard. A Handy Medical 
 
 Guide for every Man who owns a Horse. By G. S. Heatley, M.E.C.V.S. 
 
 Crown Bvo, ss. ,, ,. , m .• e 
 The Stock-Owner's Guide. A Handy Medical Treatise for 
 
 every Man who owns an Ox or a Cow . Crown Svo, 4s. 6d. 
 HEDDERWICK. Lays of Middle Age ; and other Poems. By 
 
 James Heddekwick, LL.D. Price 3s. 6d. 
 
12 LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 HEDDERWICK. Backward Glances ; or, Some Personal Eecollec- 
 
 tions. With a Portrait. Post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 HEMANS. The Poetical Works of Mrs Hemans. Copyright Edi- 
 tions.— Eoyal 8vo, 5s.— The Same, with BngraviDgs, cloth, gilt edges, 7s. 6d. 
 —Six Vols, in Three, fcap., 12s. 6d. 
 Select Poems of Mrs Hemans. Fcap., cloth, gilt edges, 3s. 
 
 HERKLESS. Cardinal Beaton Priest and Politician. By John 
 
 Herkless, Minister of Tannadice. With a Portrait. Post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 HOME PRAYERS. By Ministers of the Church of Scotland and 
 
 Members of the Church Service Society. Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo, 3s. 
 HOMER. The Odyssey. Translated into English Verse in the 
 
 Spenserian Stanza. By Philip Stanhope Worslet. Third Edition, 2 vols, 
 fcap., 12s. 
 
 The Iliad. Translated by P. S. Worsley and Professor 
 
 CONINGTON. 2 vols. ClOWn 8V0, 2IS. 
 
 HUTCHINSON. Hints on the Game of Golf. By Horace G. 
 
 Hutchinson. Sixth Edition, Enlarged. Fcap. Bvo, cloth, is. 
 IDDESLEIGH. Lectures and Essays. By the late Eael of 
 
 Iddesleigh, G.C.B., D.C.L , &c. 8vo, i6s. 
 
 Life, Letters, and Diaries of Sir Stafford Northcote, First 
 
 Earl of Iddesleigh. By Andrew Lang. With Three Portraits and a View of 
 Pynes. Third Edition. 2 vols Post Bvo, 3ts. 6d. 
 Popular Edition. In one volume. With two Plates. Post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 INDEX GEOGRAPHICUS : Being a List, alphabetically arranged, 
 
 of the Principal Places on the Globe, with the Countries and Subdivisions of 
 the Countries in which they are situated, and their Latitudes and Longitudes. 
 Imperial 8vo, pp. 676, 2ts. 
 
 JEAN JAMBON . Our Trip to Blunderland ; or, Grand Excursion 
 
 to Blundertown and Back. By Jean Jambon. With Sixty Illustrations 
 designed by Charles Doyle, engraved by Dalziel. Fourth Thousand. 
 Cloth, giltedges, 6s. 6d. Cheap Edition, cloth, 3s. 6d. Boards, 2s. 6d. 
 
 JENNINGS. Mr Gladstone : A Study. By Louis J. Jennings, 
 
 M.P., Author of ' Republican Government in the United States,' ' The Croter 
 Memoirs,' &c. Popular Edition. Crown 8vo, is. 
 
 JERNINGHAM. Reminiscences of an Attache. By Hubert 
 
 E. H. Jerningham. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 5s . 
 
 Diane de Breteuille. A Love Story. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d, 
 
 JOHNSTON. The Chemistry of Common Life. By Professor 
 
 J. F. W. Johnston. New Edition, Revised, and brought down to date. By 
 Arthur Herbert Church, M.A. Oxon. ; Author of 'Food: its Sources, 
 Constituents, and Uses,' &c. With Maps and 102 Engravings. Cr. 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology. Re- 
 vised, and brought down to date. By Sir Charles A. Cameron, M.D., 
 P.R.C.S.I., &c. Sixteenth Edition. Fcap. Bvo, 6s. 6d. 
 
 Catechism of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology. Re- 
 
 vised by Sir C. A. Cameron. With numerous Illustrations. 
 
 [Neii: Edition in preparation. 
 
 JOHNSTON. Patrick Hamilton : a Tragedy of the Reformation 
 
 in Scotland, 1528. By T P.Johnston. Crown 8vo, with Two Etchings. 5s. 
 
 KEBBEL. The Old and the New : English Country Life. The 
 
 Country Clergy— The Country Gentlemen— 'The Farmers— 'The Peasantry— 
 The Eighteenth Century. By T. E. Kebbel, MA, Author of 'Agricultural 
 Labourers,' 'Essays in History and Politics,' 'Life of Lord Beaconsfield.' 
 Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 KING. The Metamorphoses of Ovid. Translated in English Blank 
 Verse, By Henry Kino, M.A., Fellow of Wadham College, Oxford, and of 
 the Inner Temple, Barrister-at-Law. Crown 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 KINGLAKE. History of the Invasion of the Crimea. By A. W. 
 KiNGLAKE. Cabinet Edition, revised. With an Index to the Complete Work. 
 Illustrated with Maps and Plans. Comidete in 9 Vols., crown 8vo, at 6s. each. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 13 
 
 KINGLAKE. History of the Invasion of the Crimea. Demy 8vo. 
 
 Vol. VI. Winter Troubles. With a Mar, i6s. Vols. VII. and VIII. From 
 
 the Morrow of Inkerman to the Death of Lord Raglan. With an Index to 
 
 the Whole Work. With Maps and Plans. 28s. 
 Eothen. A New Edition, uniform with the Cabinet Edition 
 
 of the ' History of the Invasion of the Crimea,' price 6s. 
 KNEIPP. My Water-Cure. As Tested through more than Thirty 
 
 Tears, and Described for the Healing of Diseases and the Preservation of Health. 
 
 By SEBASTI4N Kneipp, Parish Priest of Worishofen (Bavaria). With a Portrait 
 
 and other Illustrations. Only Authorised English Translation. Translated from 
 
 the Thirtieth German Edition by A. de F. Crown 8vo, ss. 
 
 KNOLLYS. The Elements of Field-Artillery. Designed for the 
 Use of Infantry and Cavalry Officers. By Henry Knollys, Captain Boyal 
 Artillery ; Author of * From Sedan to Saarbrllck,' Editor of * Incidents in the 
 Sepoy War,' &c. With Engravings. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 LAMINGTON. In the Days of the Dandies. By the late Lord 
 Lamington. Crown Svo. Illustrated cover, is. ; cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 LAWLESS. Hurrish : a Study. By the Hon. Emily Lawless, 
 
 Author of 'A Chelsea Householder,' &c. Fourth Edition, crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 LAWSON. Spain of To-day : A Descriptive, Industrial, and Finan- 
 cial Survey of the Peninsula, with a full account of the Rio Tinto Mines. By 
 W. R. Lawson. Crown Svo, 3s 6d. 
 
 LEES. A Handbook of the Sheriff and Justice of Peace Small 
 Debt Courts. Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 LIGHTFOOT. Studies in Philosophy. By the Rev. J. Lightpoot, 
 
 M. A. ,D.Sc., Vicar of Cross Stone, Todmorden. CrownSvo,4S. 6d. 
 
 LLOYD. Ireland under the Land League. A Narrative of Personal 
 Experiences. By Cliffobd LLoyd, Special Eesident Magistrate. Post Svo, 6s. 
 
 L0CK.HART. Novels by Ladrence W. M. Lockhart. See 
 Blackwoods' New Series of Three-and-Sixpenny Novels on page 5. 
 
 LORIMEE,. The Institutes of Law : A Treatise of the Principles 
 of Jurisprudence as determined by Nature. By the late James Lokimeb, 
 Professor of Public Law and of the Law of Nature and Nations in the Uni- 
 versity of Edinburgh. New Edition, revised and much enlarged. Svo, i8s. 
 
 The Institutes of the Law of Nations. A Treatise of the 
 
 Jural Relation of Separate Political Communities. In 2 vols. Svo. Volume 
 I., pricei6s. Volume II., price 20s. 
 
 LOVE. Scottish Church Music. Its Composers and Sources. With 
 Musical Illustrations. By James Love. In i vol. post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 M'COMBIE. Cattle and Cattle-Breeders. By William M'Combif, 
 
 TiUyfour. New Edition, enlarged, with Memoir of the Author. By James 
 Macdonaid, of the ' Farming World.' Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 MACRAE. A Handbook of Deer -Stalking. By Alexander 
 
 Maobae, late Forester to Lord Henry Bentinok. With Introduction by 
 Horatio Ross, Esq. Fcap. Svo, with two Photographs from Life. 3s. 6d. 
 
 M'CRIE. Works of the Rev. Thomas M'Crie, D.D. Uniform Edi- 
 tion. Four vols, crown Svo, 24s. 
 
 . Life of John Knox. Containing Illustrations of the His- 
 tory of the Reformation in Scotland. Crown Svo. 6s. Another Edition, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Life of Andrew Melville. Containing Illustrations of the 
 
 Ecclesiastical and Literary History of Scotland in the Sixteenth and Seven- 
 teenth Centuries. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 History of the Progress and Suppression of the Reforma- 
 
 tion in Italy in the Sixteenth Century. Crown Svo, 4s. 
 - History of the Progress and Suppression of the Reforma- 
 tion in Spain in the Sixteenth Century. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d . 
 Lectures on the Book of Esther. Fcap. Svo, Ss 
 
 MACDONALD. a Manual of the Criminal Law (Scotland) Pro- 
 cedure Act, 18S7. By Norman Doran Macdonald. Revised by the Lord 
 Justice-Clerk. Svo, cloth, los. 6d. 
 
U LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 MACGREGOR. Life and Opinions of Major-General Sir Charles 
 MacGregor, K.O.B., C.S.I. , CLE , Quartermaster-General of India. Fro™ 
 his Letters and Diaries. Edited by Lady MacGkegok. Witli Portraits and 
 Maps to illustrate Campaigns in whicli he was engaged. 2 vols. 8vo, 35s. 
 
 M'INTOSH. The Book of the Garden. By Charles M'Intosh, 
 
 formerly Curator of the Eoyal Gardens of his Majesty the King of the Belgians, 
 and lately of those of his Grace the Duke of Bucoleuoh, E.G., at Dallceith Pal- 
 ace. 2 vols, royal 8vo, with 1350 Engravings. ;£4, 78. 6d. Vol. I. On the 
 Formation of Gardens and Construction of Garden Edifices. £1., los. 
 Vol. II. Practical Gardening. £t., 17s. 6d. 
 
 MACINTYRE. Hindu-Koh : Wanderings and Wild Sports on and 
 
 beyond the Himalayas. By Major-General Donald Macintyre, V.C, late 
 Prince of Wales' Own Goorkhas, F.E.G.S. Dedicated to H.B.H. The Prince of 
 Wales. New and Cheaper Edition, revised, with numerous Illustrations, 
 post 8vo, 78. 6d. 
 
 MACKAY. A Sketch of the History of Fife and Kinross. A 
 
 study of Scottish History and Character. By M. J. G. Maokay, Sheriff of 
 these Counties. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 MACKAY. A Manual of Modern Geography ; Mathematical, Phys- 
 ical, and PoiitieaL By the Eev. Alexandeb Maokay, LL.D., F.R.G.S. nth 
 Thousand, revised to the present time. Crown Svo, pp. 688. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Elements of Modern Geography. 55th Thousand, re- 
 vised to the present time. Crown 8vo, pp. 300, 3s. 
 
 The Intermediate Geography. Intended as an Intermediate 
 
 Book between the Author's ' Outlines of Geography ' and ' Elements of Geo- 
 graphy.' Sixteenth Edition, revised. Crown 8vo. pp. 238, 2s. 
 
 Outlines of Modern Geography. i88th Thousand, revised 
 
 to the present time. i8mo, pp. 118, is. 
 
 First Steps in Geography. 105th Thousand. i8mo, pp. 
 
 56. Sewed, 4d. ; cloth, 6d. 
 
 Elements of Physiography and Physical Geography. 
 
 With Express Reference to the Instructions issued by the Science and Art 
 Department. 30th Thousand, revised. Crown Svo, is. 6d. 
 
 Facts and Dates ; or, the Leading Events in Sacred and 
 
 Profane History, and the Principal Facts in the various Physical Sciences. 
 For Schools and Private Reference. New Edition. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 MACKAY. An Old Scots Brigade. Being the History of Mackay's 
 
 Regiment, now incorporated with the Royal Scots. With an Appendix con- 
 taining many Original Documents connected with the History of the Regi- 
 ment. By John Mackay (late) OF Herriesdale. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 MACKENZIE. Studies in Roman Law. With Comparative Vievs 
 
 of the Laws of France, England, and Scotland. By Lord Mackenzie, one of 
 the Judges of the Court of Session in Scotland. Sixth Edition, Edited by 
 John Kirkpatrick, Esq., M.A., LL.B., Advocate, Professor of History in 
 the Uaiversity of Edinburgh. Svo, 12s. 
 
 M'KERLIE. Galloway : Ancient and Modern. An Account of the 
 
 Historic Celtic District. By P. H. M'Kerlie, P.S.A. Scot., F.E.G.S., &c. 
 Author of ' Lands and their Owners in Galloway.' Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 M'PHERSON. Summer Sundays in a Strathmore Parish. By J. 
 
 Gordon M'Pherson, Ph.D., P.R.S.E., Minister of Ruthven. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 Golf and Golfers. Past and Present. With an Introduction by 
 
 the Right Hon. A. J. Balfour, and a Portrait of the Author. Fcap. Svo, is. 6d. 
 
 MAIN. Three Hundred English Sonnets. Chosen and Edited by 
 
 David M. Main. Fcap. Svo, 6s. 
 MAIR. A Digest of Laws and Decisions, Ecclesiastical and Civil, 
 
 relating to the Constitution, Practice, and Affairs of the Church of Scotland. 
 
 With Notes and Forms of Procedure. By the Rev. William Mair, D.D., 
 
 Minister of the Parish of Earlston. Crown Svo. With Supplements, 8s. 
 MARMORNE. The Story is told by Adolphus Segrave, the 
 
 youngest of three Brothers. Third Edition. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 15 
 
 MARSHALL. French Home Life. By Fbedeeio Marshall, 
 
 Author of 'Claire Braudon.' Second Edition. 5s. 
 
 It Happened Yesterday. A Novel. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 MARSHMAN. History of India. From tlie Earliest Period to the 
 Close of the India Company's Government ; with an Epitome of Subsequent 
 Events. By John Glabk Marshman, C.S.I. Abridged from the Author's 
 larger work. Second Edition, revised. Crown 8vo, with Map, 6s. 6d. 
 
 MARTIN. Goethe's Faust. Part I. Translated by Sir Theodobe 
 Maktin, K.C. B. Second Ed., crown 8vo, 6s. Ninth Ed., feap. 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Goethe's Faust. Part II. Translated into English Verse. 
 
 Second Edition, revised. Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 The Works of Horace. Translated into English Verse, 
 
 with Life and Notes. 2 vols. New Edition, crown 8 vo, 21s. 
 
 Poems and Ballads of Heinrich Heine. Done into Eng- 
 lish Verse. Second Edition. Printed on pnpier vergi, crown 8vo, 8s . 
 
 The Song of the Bell, and other Translations from Schiller, 
 
 Goethe, Uhlaud, and Others. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Catullus. With Life and Notes. Second Ed., post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Aladdin : A Dramatic Poem. By Adam Obhlenschlae- 
 
 QEB. Fcap. 8vo, ss. 
 
 Correggio : A Tragedy. By Oehlensohlaeger. With 
 
 Notes. Fcap. 8vo, 3s. 
 
 King Rene's Daughter : A Danish Lyrical Drama. By 
 
 Henrik Hertz. Second Edition, fcap., 2s. 6d. 
 
 MARTIN. On some ol Shakespeare's Female Characters. In a 
 
 Series of Letters. By Helena FAUcrT, Lady Martin. Dedicated by per- 
 mission to Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen. New Edition, enlarged. 
 8vo, with Portrait by Lane, 7s. 6d. 
 
 MATHESON. Can the Old Faith Live with the New ? or the 
 
 Problem of Evolution and Revelation. By the Rev. George Matheson, D.D. 
 
 Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 The Psalmist and the Scientist ; or. Modern Value of the 
 
 Religious Sentiment. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, ss. 
 
 Spiritual Development of St Paul. 3d Edition. Cr. 8vo, 5s. 
 
 Sacred Songs. New and Cheaper Edition. Cr. 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 MAURICE. The Balance of Military Power in Europe. An 
 Examination of the War Resources of Great Britain and the Continental States. 
 By Colonel Maurice, B.A., Professor of Military Art and History at the Royal 
 Staff College. Crown 8vo, with a Map. 6s. 
 
 MEBEDYTH. The Brief for the Government, 1886-92. A Hand- 
 book for Conservative and Unionist Writers, Speakers, &c. Second Edition. 
 ByW. H. Meredyth. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 MICHEL. A Critical Inquiry into the Scottish Language. With 
 the view of Illustrating tlie Rise and Progress of Civilisation in Scotland. By 
 Francisque-Michel, F.S.A. Lond. and Scot., Correspondant do I'lnstitut de 
 France, &c. 4to, printed on hand-made paper, and bound in Roxburgbe, 66f. 
 
 MICHIE. The Larch : Being a Practical Treatise on its Culture 
 and General Management. EyCnRisTOPHERT.MicHiE, Fores ter,Cullen Ho use. 
 Crown 8vo, with Illustrations. New and Cheaper Edition, enlarged, 55. 
 
 The Practice of Forestry. Cr. Svo, with Illustrations. 6s. 
 
 MIDDLETON. The Story of Alastair Bhan Comyn ; or, The 
 Tragedy of Dunphail. A Tale of Tradition and Romance. By the Lady 
 llrDDLETON. Square Svo los. Cheaper Edition, 5s. 
 
 MILLER. Landscape Geology. A Plea for the Study of Geology by 
 
 LiQdscape Painters. By Hugh Miller, of H.M. Geological Survey. Cr.Svo, 3s. 
 
 MILNE-HOME. Mamma's Black Nurse Stories. West Indian 
 Folk-lore. By Mart Pamela Milne-Home. With six full-page tinted Illus- 
 trations. Small 4to, ss. 
 
16 LIST or BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 MINTO. A Manual of English Prose Literature, Biographical 
 and Critical : designed mainly to show Characteristics of Style. By W. Minto, 
 M.A., Professor of Logic in the University of Aberdeen. Third Edition, 
 revised. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Characteristics of English Poets, from Chaucer to Shirley. 
 
 New Edition, revised. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 MOIK. Life of Mansie Wauch, Tailor in Dalkeith. By D. M. 
 
 MolR. With 8 lUnstrations on Steel, by the late George Ceuikshank. 
 Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. Another Edition, fcap. Svo, is. 6d. 
 
 MOMERIE. Defects of Modern Christianity, and other Sermons. 
 
 By Alj-bed Williams Momebie, M.A., D.Sc, LL.D. 4th Edition. Cr. Svo, 5s. 
 
 The Basis of Religion. Being an Examination of Natural 
 
 Religion. Third Edition. Crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 The Origin of Evil, and other Sermons. Seventh Edition, 
 
 enlarged. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 Personality. The Beginning and End of Metaphysics, and 
 
 a Necessary Assumptionin all Positive Philosophy. Fourth Ed. Cr. Svo, 3s. 
 
 Agnosticism. Tlaird Edition, Revised. Crown Svo, 5s. _ 
 
 Preaching and Hearing ; and other Sermons. Third 
 
 Edition, Enlarged. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 Belief in God. Third Edition. Crown Svo, 3s. 
 
 Inspiration; and other Sermons. Second Ed. Cr. Svo, 5s. 
 
 Church and Creed. Second Edition. Crown Svo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 MONTAGUE. Campaigning in South Africa. Reminiscences of 
 
 an Officer in 1879. By Captain W. E.Montaoue, 94th Eegiment, Author of 
 ' Claude Meadowleigh, ' &c. Svo, los. 6d. 
 
 MONTALEMBERT. Memoir of Count de Montalemhert. A 
 
 Chapter of Recent French History. By Mrs Oliphant, Author of the 'Life 
 of Edward Irving,' &c. 2 vols, crown Svo, £1, 4s, 
 
 MORISON. Sordello. An Outline Analysis of Mr Browning's 
 
 Poem. By Jeanie Moeison, Author of 'The Purpose of the Ages,' ' Ane 
 Booke of Ballades,' &c. Crown Svo, 3s. 
 
 Selections from Poems. Crown Svo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 There as Here. Crown Svo, 3s. 
 
 *+t* A limited impression on handmade paper, bound in vellum, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " Of Fiiine at the Fair," " Christmas Eve and Easter Day," 
 
 and other of Mr Browning's Poems. Crown Svo, 3s. 
 
 MOZLEY. Essays from ' Blackwood.' By the late Anne Mozley, 
 
 Author of ' Essays on Social Subjects ' ; Editor of ' The Letters and Correspond- 
 ence of Cardinal Newman,' 'Letters of the Rev. J. B. Mozley,' &c. With a 
 Memoir by her Sister, Fakny Mozley. Post Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 MUNRO. On Valuation of Property. By William Muneo, M.A., 
 Her Majesty's Assessor of Railways and Canals for Scotland. Second Edition. 
 Revised and enlarged. Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 MURDOCH. Manual of the Law of Insolvency and Bankruptcy : 
 
 Comprehending a Summary of the Law of Insolvency, Notour Bankruptcy, 
 Composition -contracts. Trust-deeds, Cessios, and Sequestrations; and the 
 Winding-up of Joint-Stock Companies in Scotland ; with Annotations on the 
 various Insolvency and Bankruptcy Statutes ; and with Forms of Procedure 
 applicable to these Subjects. By James Murdoch, Member of the Faculty of 
 Procurators in Glasgow. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged, Svo, £1, los. 
 MY TRIVIAL LIFE AND MISFORTUNE : A Gossip with 
 
 no Plot in Particular. By A Plain Woman. Cheap Ed., crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 By tlie Same Authob. 
 POOE NELLIE. New Edition. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 NAPIER, The Construction of the Wonderful Canon of Logar- 
 ithms. By John Napier of Merchiston. Translated, with Notes, and a 
 Catalogue of Napier's Works, by William Rae Macdonald. Small 4to, 15s. 
 A few large-paper copies on Whatman paper, 30s. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 17 
 
 NEAVES. Songs and Verses, Social and Scientific. By an Old 
 
 Contributor to ■ Maga.' By the Hon. Lord Neaves. Fifth Ed., fcap. 8vo, 4s. 
 
 The Greek Anthology. Being Vol. XX. of 'Ancient 
 
 Classics for £nf;lish Readers." Crown 8vo, 23. fid. 
 
 NICHOLSON. A Manual of Zoology, for the Use of Students. 
 
 With a General Introduction on the Principles of Zoelogy . By Henry Al- 
 LEYNE Nicholson, M.D., D.So., F.L.S., P.G.S., Begins Professor of Natural 
 History in the University of Aberdeen. Seventh Edition, rewritten and 
 enlarged. Post 8vo, pp. 956, with ss5 Engravings on Wood, i8s. 
 
 Text-Book of Zoology, for the Use of Schools. Fourth Edi- 
 tion, enlarged. Crown 8to, with 188 Engravings on Wood, 7s. fid. 
 
 Introductory Text-Book of Zoology, for the Use of Junior 
 
 Classes. Sixth Edition, revised and enlarged, with 166 Eogravings, 3S. 
 
 Outlines of Natural History, for Beginners ; being Descrip- 
 tions of a Progressive Series of Zoological Types. Third Edition, with 
 Engravings, is. fid. 
 
 A Manual of Palseontology, for the Use of Students. 
 
 With a General Introduction on the Principles of Palaeontology. By Professor 
 H. Alletne Nicholson and Richard Lydekker, B.A. Third Edition. Re- 
 written and greatly enlarged. 2 vols. 8vo, with Engravings, ;^ 3, 3s. 
 
 The Ancient Life-History of the Earth. An Outline of 
 
 the Principles and Leading Facts of Palceontological Science. Crown 8vo, 
 with 276 Engravings, ids. fid. 
 
 On the "Tabulate Corals " of the Palaeozoic Period, with 
 
 Critical Descriptions of Illustrative Species. Illustrated with 15 Litho- 
 graph Plates and numerous Engravings. Super-royal 8 vo, 21s. 
 
 Synopsis of the Classification of the Animal King- 
 dom. 8vo , with 106 Illustrations, fis. 
 
 On the Structure and Affinities of the Genus Monticuli- 
 
 pora and its Sub-Genera, with Critical Descriptions of Illustrative Species. 
 Illustrated with numerous Engravings on wood and lithographed Plates. 
 Super-royal 8vo, i8s. 
 
 NICHOLSON. Communion with Heaven, and other Sermons. 
 
 By th e late Maxwell Nicholson, D. D. , Minister of St Stephen's, Edinburgh. 
 Crown 8vo, 5s. fid. 
 
 Best in Jesus. Sixth Edition. Fcap. 8vo, 4s . 6d. 
 
 NICHOLSON. A Treatise on Money, and Essays on Present 
 
 Monetary Problems. By Joseph Shield Nicholson, M.A. , D.Sc, Professor 
 of Commercial and Political Economy and Mercantile Law in the University 
 of Edinburgh. 8vo, los. fid. 
 
 Thoth. A Romance. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 A Dreamer of Dreams. A Modern Romance. Second 
 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, fis. 
 
 NICOLSON AND MURE. A Handbook to the Local Govern- 
 ment (Scotland) Act, i88g. With Introduction, Explanatory Notes, and 
 Index. By J. Badexach Nicolson, Advocate, Counsel to the Scotch Educa- 
 tion Department, and W. J. Mure, Advocate, Legal Secretary to the Lord 
 Advocate for Scotland. Ninth Reprint. 8vo, ss. 
 
 OLIPHANT. MasoUam : a Problem of the Period. A Novel. 
 By Laurence Oliphant. 3 vols, post 8vo, 25s. fid 
 
 Scientific Religion ; or, Higher Possibilities of Life and 
 
 Practice through the Operation of Natural Forces. Second Edition. Svo,_ i6s. 
 
 Altiora Peto. By Laurence Oliphant. Cheap Edition. 
 
 Crown 8vo, boards, 2s. fid.; cloth, 3s. fid. Illnstvated Edition. Crown 8vo, 
 cloth, fis. 
 
 Piccadilly. With Illustrations by Richard Doyle. New 
 
 Edition, 33. fid. Cheap Edition, boards. 2s. fid. 
 Traitsand Travesties ; Social and Political. Post 8vo, los. 6cl. 
 
 Haifa : Life in Modern Palestine. 2d Edition. Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Episodes in a Life of Adventure ; or, Moss from a Rolling 
 
 Stone. Fifth Edition. Post 8vo, fis. 
 
18 LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 OLIPHANT. The Land of Gilead. With Excursions in the 
 
 Lebanon. With Illustrations and Maps . Demy 8vo, ais. 
 
 Memoir of the Life of Laurence Oliphant, and of Alice 
 
 Oliphant, his Wife. By Mrs M. O. W. Oliphant. Seventh Edition. In 2 vols, 
 post 8vo, with Portraits. 21R. 
 
 Popular Edition. With a New Preface. Post 8vo. With Portraits, 7s. 6d. 
 OLIPHANT. Katie Stewart. By Mrs Oliphant. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Two Stories of the Seen and the Unseen. The Open Door 
 
 — Old Lady Mary. Paper Covers, is. 
 
 Sons and Daughters. Grown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 OLIPHANT. Notes of a Pilgrimage to Jerusalem and the Holy 
 
 Land. By P. R. Oliphant. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 ON SURREY HILLS. By "A Son of the Marshes." Second 
 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 By the Same Author. 
 Annals of a Fishing Village. Edited by J. A. Owen. 
 
 Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. With 7 full-page Illustrations, 7s. 6d. 
 Within an Hour of London Town. Among Wild Birds and 
 their Haunts. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 OSSIAN. The Poems of Ossian in the Original Gaelic. With a 
 Literal Translation into English, and a Dissertation on the Authenticity of the 
 Poems. By the Rev. Archibald Clerk. 2 vols, imperial Bvo, ;£i, iis. 6d. 
 OSWALD. By Pell and Fjord ; or, Scenes and Studies in Iceland. 
 
 By E. J. Oswald. Post 8vo, with Illustrations. 7s. 6d. 
 PAGE. Introductory Text-Book of Geology. By David Page, 
 LL.D., Professor of Geology in the Durham University of Physical Science 
 Newcastle, and Professor Lapwoeth of Mason Science College, Birmingham. 
 With Engravings and Glossarial Index. Twelfth Edition. Revised and En- 
 larged. 3s. 6d. 
 Advanced Text-Book of Geology, Descriptive and Indus- 
 trial. With Engravings, and Glossary of Scientiflo Terms. Sixth Edition, re- 
 vised and enlarged, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Introductory Text-Book of Physical Geography. With 
 
 Sketch-Maps andlllustrations. Editedby Professor Lapwokth, LL.D.,E.G.S., 
 &c., Mason Science College, Birmingham. 12th Edition. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Advanced Text -Book of Physical Geography. Third 
 
 Edition, Revised and Enlarged by Prof. Lapwoeth. With Engravings. 5s. 
 
 PATON. Spindrift. By Sir J. Noel Paton. Fcap., cloth, 5s. 
 
 Poems by a Painter. Fcap., cloth, 5s. 
 
 PATON. Body and Soul. A Romance in Transcendental Path- 
 ology. By Frederick Noel Paton. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, is. 
 
 PATRICK. The Apology of Origen in Reply to Celsus. A 
 
 Chapter in the History of Apologetics. By Rev. J. 'Patrick, B.D. In i 
 vol. crown Bvo. r j^ iji^ m-ess 
 
 PATTERSON. Essays in History and Art. By R. Hogarth 
 
 Patterson. 8vo, 12s. 
 The New Golden Age, and Influence of the Precious 
 
 Metals upon the World. 2 vols. 8vo, 31s. 6d. 
 PAUL. History of the Royal Company of Archers, the Queen's 
 
 Body-Guard for Scotland. By James Balfour Paul, Advocate of the Scottish 
 
 Bar. Crown 4to, with Portraits and other Illustrations. £2, 2s 
 
 PEILE. Lawn Tennis as a Game of Skill. With latest revised 
 Laws as played by the Best Clubs. By Captain S. C. F. Peile, B.S C Cheaper 
 Edition, fcap. cloth, is. 
 
 PETTIGREW. The Handy Book of Bees, and their Profitable 
 Management. By A. Pettiqrew. Fifth Edition, Enlarged, with Engrav- 
 ings. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 PHILIP. The Function of Labour in the Production of Wealth. 
 By Alexander Philip, LL.B., Edinburgh. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 19 
 
 PHILOSOPHICAL CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS. 
 
 Edited by William Knioht, LL.D., Professor of Moral Philosophy, Uni- 
 versity of St Andrews, In crown 8vo volumes, with portraits, price 33. 6d. 
 
 IFor list of Volumes published, seepage 2. 
 
 POLLOK. The Course of Time : A Poem. By Robert Pollok, 
 
 A.M. Small fcap. 8vo, cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. Cottage Edition, 32mo, 8d. The 
 Same, cloth, gilt edges, is. 6d. Another Edition, with Illustrations by Birket 
 Poster and others, fcap., cloth, 3s. 6d., or with edges gilt, 4s. 
 PORT ROYAL LOGIC. Translated from the French ; with Intro- 
 duction, Notes, and Appendix. By Thomas Spenchk Baynes, LL.D., Pro- 
 fessor in the University of St Andrews. Tenth Edition, izmo, 4s. 
 
 POTTS AND DARNELL. Aditus Faciliores : An easy Latin Con- 
 struing Book, with Complete Vocabulary. By the late A. W. Potts, M.A., 
 LL.D., aad the Rev. C. Darnell, M.A., Head-Master of Cargilfleld Prepara- 
 tory School, Edinburgh. Tenth Edition, fcap. 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Aditus Faciliores Graeci. An easy Greek Construing Book, 
 
 with Complete Vocabulary. Fourth Edition, fcap. 8vo, 3s. 
 
 POTTS. School Sermons. By the late Alexander Wm. Potts, 
 
 LL.D., First Head-Master of Pettes College. With a Memoir and Portrait. 
 Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 PRINGLE. The Live-Stock of the Farm. By Robert 0. Pringle. 
 
 Third Edition. Revised and Edited by James Maodonald. Or. 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 PUBLIC GENERAL STATUTES AFFECTING SCOTLAND 
 
 from 1707 to 1847, with Chronological Table and Index. 3 vols, large 8vo, £2* 3S- 
 
 PUBLIC GENERAL STATUTES AFFECTING SCOTLAND, 
 
 COLLECTION OP. Published Annually with General Index. 
 
 RADICAL CURE FOR IRELAND, The. A Letter to the People 
 
 of Bnglandand Scotlandconcerninganew Plantation. With2Maps. 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 RAE. The Syrian Church in India. By George Milne Rae, M.A., 
 Fellow of the University of Madias ; late Professor in the Madras Christian Col- 
 lege. With 6 full-page Illustrations. Post 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 RAMSAy. Scotland and Scotsmen in the Eighteenth Century. 
 Edited from the MSS. of John Ramsay, Esq. of Ochtertyre, by Alexandeb 
 Allardyce, Author of 'Memoir of Admiral Lord Keith, K.B.,' &c. 2 vols. 
 8vo, 31S. 6d. 
 
 RANKIN. A Handbook of the Church of Scotland. By James 
 
 Rankin, D.D., Minister of Muthill ; Author of 'Character Studies in the 
 Old Testament,' &c. An entirely New and much Enlarged Edition. Crown 
 Svo, with 2 Maps, ys. 6d. 
 
 The Creed in Scotland. An Exposition of the Apostles' 
 
 Creed. With Extracts from Archbishop Hamilton's Catechism of 1552, John 
 Calvin's Catechism of 1556, and a Catena of Ancient Latin and other Hymns. 
 Post Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 First Communion Lessons. 23d Edition. Paper Cover, 2d. 
 
 RECORDS OF THE TERCENTENARY FESTIVAL OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OP EDINBURGH. Celebrated in April 1884. Published 
 under the Sanction of the Senatus Academicus. Large 4to, £z, 12s. 6d. 
 
 ROBERTSON. The Early Religion of Israel. As set forth by 
 
 Biblical Writers and Modern Critical Historians. Being the Baird Lecture for 
 188S-89. By James Robertson, D.D., Professor of Oriental Languages in 
 the University of Glasgow. Crown Svo, los. 6d. 
 
 ROBERTSON. Orellana, and other Poems. By J. LoGiB Robert- 
 son, M. a. Fcap. Svo. Printed on hand-made paper. 6s. 
 ROBERTSON. Our Holiday Among the Hills. By James and 
 
 Janet Logie Robertson. Fcap. Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 ROSCOE. Rambles with a Fishing-rod. By E.S. Roscob. Crown 
 
 8vo, 4S. 6d. 
 
 ROSS. Old Scottish Regimental Colours. By Andrew Ross, 
 
 S.S.C, Hon. Secretary Old Scottish Regimental Colours Committee. Dedi- 
 cated by Special Permission to Her Majesty the Queen. Folio. £i, 12s. 6d. 
 
 RUSSELL. The Haigs of Bemersyde. A Family History. By 
 
 John Russell. Large Svo, with Illustrations. 21s. 
 
20 LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 RUSSELL. Fragments from Many Tables. Being the EecoUections of 
 
 some Wise and Witty Men and Women. By Geo. Russell. Cr. 8vo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 RUTLAND. Notes of an Irish Tour in 1846. By the Duke of 
 
 BuTLAND, G.C.B. (Lord John Manners). New Edition. Crown 8vo, 2S.6d. 
 
 Correspondence between the Right Honble. William Pitt 
 
 and Charles Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 1781-1787. With In- 
 troductory Note by John Duke of Rutland. 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 RUTLAND. Gems of German Poetry. Translated by the Ddchbss 
 OF Rutland (Lady John Manners). [New Edition, in preparation. 
 
 Impressions of Bad-Homburg. Comprising a Short Ac- 
 count of the Women's Associations of Germany under the Red Cross. Crown 
 8vo, IS. 6d. 
 
 Some Personal Recollections of the Later Years of the Earl 
 
 of Beaconsfield, K. G. Sixth Edition, 6d. 
 
 Employment of Women in the Public Service. 6d. 
 
 ■= Some of the Advantages of Easily Accessible Reading and 
 
 Recreation Rooms, and Free Libraries. With Remarks on Starting and 
 Maintaining Them. Second Edition, crown 8vo, is. 
 
 A Sequel to Rich Men's Dwellings, and other Occasional 
 
 Papers. Grown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Encouraging Experiences of Reading and Recreation Rooms, 
 
 Aims of Guilds, Nottingham Social Guild, Existing Institutions, &c., &c. 
 Crown Svo, is. 
 
 SCHILLER. Wallenstein. A Dramatic Poem. By Frederick 
 
 VON Schiller. Translated by C. G. A. Lockhart. Fcap. Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 SCOTCH LOCH FISHING. By " Black Palmer." Crown Svo, 
 
 interleaved with, blank pages, 4s. 
 
 SCOUGAL. Prisons and their Inmates; or, Scenes from a Silent 
 
 "World. By Francis Scougal. Crown 8vOj boards, 2s. 
 
 SELLAR. Manual of tlie Education Acts for Scotland. By the 
 
 late Alexander Craig Sellar, M.P. Eighth Edition. Revised and in 
 great part rewritten by J. Edward Graham, B.A. Oxod., Advocate. 
 With Kules for the conduct of Elections, with Notes and Cases. "With a 
 Supplement, being the Acts of 1889 in so far as affecting the Education Acts. 
 
 Svo, I2S. 6d. 
 
 [Supplement to Sellar's Manual of the Education Acts. Svo, as.] 
 SETH. Scottish Philosophy. A Comparison of the Scottish and 
 
 German Answers to Hume. Balfour Philosophical Lectures, University of 
 Edinburgh. By Andrew Seth, M.A., Professor of Logic and Metaphysics 
 in Edinburgh University. Second Edition. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 Hegelianism and Personality. Balfour Philosophical Lec- 
 tures. Second Series. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 SETH. Freedom as Ethical Postulate. By James Seth, M.A., 
 
 George Munro Professor of Philosophy, Dalhonsie College, Halifax, Canada, 
 Svo, IS. 
 
 SHADWELL. The Life of Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde. Illus- 
 trated by Extracts from his Diary and Correspondence. By Lieutenant- 
 General Shadwell, C.E. 2 vols. Svo. "With Portrait, Maps, and Plans. 36s. 
 
 SHAND. Half a Century ; or. Changes in Men and Manrers. By 
 Alex. Inneej Shand, Author of 'Against Time,' &c. Second Edition, Svo, 
 12S. 6d. 
 
 Letters from the "West of Ireland. Reprinted from the 
 
 'Times.' Crown Svo. 5s, 
 
 Kilcarra. A Novel. 3 vols, crown Svo, 25s. 6d. 
 
 SHARPE. Letters from and to Charles Kirkpatrick Sharps. 
 
 Edited by Alexander Allardvce, Author of 'Memoir of Admiral Lord 
 Keith, K.B.,' &c. With a Memoir hy the Rev. W. K. R. Bedford. In two 
 vnlB. 8vo. Illustrated with Etchings and other Engravings. ;^2. 12s. 6d. 
 
 SIM. Margaret Sim's Cookery. With an Introduction by L. B. 
 
 Walford, Author of * Mr Smith : A Part of His Life,' &c. Crown Svo, ss. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 21 
 
 SKELTON. Maitland of Lethington ; and the Scotland of Mary 
 Stuart. AHistory. By John Skelton, C.B., LL.D., Author of 'TheBssays 
 of Shirley.' Demy 8vo. 2 vols., 2Ss. 
 
 The Handbook of Public Health. A Complete Edition of 
 
 the Public Health and other Sanitary Acts relating to Scotland. Annotated, 
 and with the Eules, Instructions, and Decisions of the Board of Supervision 
 brought up to date with relative forms. 8vo, with Supplement, 8s. 6d. 
 
 Supplement to Skelton's Handbook. The Administration 
 
 of the Public Health Act in Counties. 8vo, cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 The Local Government (Scotland) Act in Relation to Public 
 
 Health. A Handy Guide for County and District Councillors, Medical Offi- 
 cers, Sanitary Inspectors, and Members ofParochialBoards. Second Edition. 
 With a new Preface on appointment of Sanitary Officers. Crown 3vo, 2s. 
 
 SMITH. For God and Humanity. A Romance of Mount Carmel. By. 
 Haskett Smith, Author of ' The Divine Epiphany,' &c. 3 vols, post 8vo, 25s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH. Thorndale ; or, The Conflict of Opinions. By William 
 
 Smith, Authorof 'ADiscourseouBthios,'&c. New Edition. Cr.Svo, los. 6d. 
 
 Gravenhurst ; or, Thoughts on Good and Evil. Second 
 
 Edition, with Memoir of the Author. Crown 8vo, 8s. 
 
 The Story of William and Lucy Smith. Edited by 
 
 George Mekriam. Large post 8vo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH. Memoir of the Families of M'Combie and Thoms, 
 originally M'Intosh and M'Thomas. Compiled from History and Tradition. 
 By William M'Combie Smith. With Illustrations. 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH. Greek Testament Lessons for Colleges, Schools, and 
 Private Students, consisting chiefly of the Sermon on the Mount and the 
 Parables of our Lord. With Notes and Essays. By the Bev. J. Hunter 
 Smith, M. A., King Edward's School, Birmingham. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 SMITH. Writings by the Way. By John Campbell Smith, 
 
 M. A., Sheriff-Substitute. Crown 8vo, gs. 
 
 SMITH. The Secretary for Scotland. Being a Statement of the 
 
 Powers and Duties of the new Scottish Office. With a Short Historical 
 Introduction and numerous references to important Administrative Docu- 
 ments. By W. C. Smith, LL.B., Advocate. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 SORLEY. The Ethics of Naturalism. Being the Shaw Fellowship 
 
 Lectures, 1884. ByW. R. Soelet, M.A., Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, 
 Professor of Logic and Philosophy in University College of South Wales. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 SPEEDY. Sport in the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland with 
 Bod and Gun. ByToMSPEEny. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. With 
 Illustrations by Lieut.-Gen.HopeCrealocke.C.B., CM. G., and others. 8vo,iss. 
 
 SPROTT. The Worship and Offices of the Church of Scotland. 
 
 By Georoe W. Sprott, D.D., Minister of North Berwick. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 STAFFORD. How I Spent my Twentieth Year. Being a Record 
 of a Tour Round the World, 1886-87. By the Marchioness or Stafford. 
 With Illustrations. Third Edition, crown 8vo, 8s. 6d. 
 
 STARFORTH. Villa Residences and Farm Architecture : A Series 
 
 of Designs. By John Starforth, Architect. 102 Engravings. Second Edi- 
 tion, medium 4to, i.'z, 17s. 6d, 
 
 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. Complete, with 
 
 Index, 15 vols. 8vo, i,x6, i6s. 
 Each County sold separately, with Title, Index, and Map, neatly bound in cloth. 
 
 STEPHENS' BOOK OF THE FARM. Illustrated with numer- 
 ous Portraits of Animals and Engravings of Implements, and Plans of Parm 
 Buildings. Fourth Edition. Revised, and in great part rewritten by James 
 Macdonald, of the ' Farming World,' &c. Complete in Six Divisional Vol- 
 umes, bound in cloth, each ics. 6d., or handsomely bound, in 3 volumes, with 
 leather back and gilt top, ^3, 3B. 
 
 The Book of Farm Implements and Machines. By 
 
 J. Slight and E. SooTT Burn, Engineers. Edited by Henry Stephens. Large 
 
 8V0. £1. 25. 
 
 STEVENSON. British Fungi. (Hymenomycetes.) By Rev. John 
 
 Stevenson, Author of ■ Myoologia Scotia,' Hon. Sec. Cryptogamic Society of 
 Scotland. Vols. I. and II,, postjvo. with Illustrations, price 12s. 6d. each. 
 
22 LIST OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 STEWART. Advice to Purchasers of Horses. By John Stewart, 
 
 V.S. New Edition. 23. fid. 
 
 Stable Economy. A Treatise on the Management of 
 
 Horses in relation to Stabling, Grooming, Feeding, Watering, and Working. 
 Seventh Edition, fcap. 8vo, 6s. 6d. 
 
 STEWART. A Hebrew Grammar, with the Pronunciation, Syl- 
 labic Division and Tone of tbe Words, and Quantity of the Vowels. By Rev. 
 DuNOiN Stewart, D.D. Fourth Edition. 8vo, 3s. fid. 
 
 STEWART. Boethius : An Essay. By Huan Eraser Stewart, 
 
 iM.A., Trinity College, Cambridge. Crown 8vo, 7s. fid. 
 
 STODDART. Angling Songs. By Thomas Tod Stoddart. New 
 
 Edition, with a Memoir by Anna M. Stoddabt. Crown Bvo, 7s. fid. 
 
 STORMONTH. Etymological and Pronouncing Dictionary of the 
 English Language. Including a very Copious Selection of Scientific Terms. 
 For Use in Schools and Colleges, and as a Book of General Reference. By th e 
 Rev. James Stormonth. The Pronunciation carefully Revised by the Rev. 
 P. H. Phelp, M.A. Cantab. Tenth Edition, Revised throughout. Crown 
 8vo, pp. 800. 7S. fid. 
 
 Dictionary of the English Language, Pronouncing, 
 
 Etyinological, and Explanatory. Revised by the Rev. P. H. Phelp. Library 
 Edition. Imperial 8vo, handsomely bound in half morocco, 31s. fid. 
 
 The School Etymological Dictionary and Word-Book. 
 
 Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo, pp. 254. 2s. 
 
 STORY. Nero ; A Historical Play. By W. W. Story, Author of 
 ' Roba di Roma.' Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 — Vallombrosa. Post 8vo, 5s. 
 
 Poems. 2 vols, fcap., 7s. 6d. 
 
 Piammetta. A Summer Idyl. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Conversations in a Studio. 2 vols, crown 8vo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 Excursions in Art and Letters. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 STRICKLAND. Life of Agnes Strickland. By her Sister. 
 
 Post 8vo, with Portrait engraved on Steel, 12s. fid. 
 
 STURGIS. John-a- Dreams. A Tale. By Julian Sturgis. 
 
 New Edition, crown 8vo, 3s. fid. 
 
 Little Comedies, Old and New. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 SUTHERLAND. Handbook of Hardy Herbaceous and Alpine 
 
 Flowers, for general Garden Decoration. Containing Descriptions of up- 
 wards of 1000 Species of Ornamental Hardy Perennial and Alpine Plants ; 
 along with Concise and Plain Instructions for their Propagation and Culture. 
 By William Sutherland, Landscape Gardener ; formerly Manager of the 
 Herbaceous Department at Kew. Crown 8vo, 7s. fid. 
 
 TAYLOR. The Story of My Life. By the late Colonel Meadows 
 
 Taylor, Author of 'The Confessions of a Thug,' &o. &c. Edited by his 
 Daughter. New and cheaper Edition, being the Fourth. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 TELLET. Pastor and Prelate. A Story of Clerical Life. By Rot 
 Tellet, Author of ' The Outcasts,' &c. 3 vols, crown Bvo, 2ss. fid. 
 
 THOLUCK. Hours of Christian Devotion. Translated from the 
 German of A. Tholuok, D.D., Professor of Theology in the University of Halle. 
 By the Rev. Robert Menzies, D. D. With a Preface written for this Transla- 
 tion by the Author. Second Edition, crown 8vo, 7s. fid. 
 
 THOMSON. Handy Book of the Flowe.r-Garden : being Practical 
 Directions for the Propagation, Culture, and Arrangement of Plants in Flower- 
 Gardens all the year round. With Engraved Plana. By David Thomson, 
 Gardener to his Grace the Duke of Buccleuch, K.T. , at Drumlanrig Fourth 
 and Cheaper Rdition, crown 8vo, 58. 
 
 The Handy Book of Fruit-Culture under Glass: being 
 
 a series of Elaborate Practical Treatises on the Cultivation and Forcing of 
 Pines, Vines, Peaches, Figs, Melons, Strawberries, and Cucumbers. With En- 
 gravings of Hothouses, &c. Second Ed. Cr. Svo, 7s. fid. 
 
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS. 23 
 
 THOMSON. A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape 
 
 Vine. By William Thomson, Tweed Vineyards. Tenth Edition, 8vo, 5B. 
 
 THOMSON. Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent. With 
 
 Directions for tlie Preparation of Poultices, Fomentations, &c. By Barbara 
 Thomson. Fcap. 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 THORNTON. Opposites. A Series of Essays on the Unpopular 
 
 Sides of Popular Questions. By Lewis Thornton. 8vo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 TOM CRINGLE'S LOG. A New Edition, with Illustrations. 
 
 Crown 8vo, cloth gilt, 5s. Cheap Edition, as. 
 
 TRANSACTIONS OF THE HIGHLAND AND AGRICUL- 
 TURAL SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. Puhlished annnaUy, price ss. 
 
 TULLOCH. Rational Theology and Christian Philosophy in Eng- 
 land in the Seventeenth Century. By John Tulloch, D.D., Principal of St 
 Mary's College in the University of St Andrews; and one of her Majesty's 
 Chaplains in Ordinary in Scotland. Second Edition. 2 vols. Svo, i6s. 
 
 Modern Theories in Philosophy and Religion. 8vo, 15s. 
 
 Luther, and other Leaders of the Reformation. Third 
 
 Edition, enlarged. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Memoir of Principal Tulloch, D.D., LL.D. By Mrs 
 
 OupHANT, Author of ' Life of Edward Irving.' Third and Cheaper Edition. 
 Svo, with Portrait. 7s. 6d. 
 
 TWEEDIE. The Arabian Horse : his Country and People. With 
 Portraits of Typical or Famous Arabians, and numerous other Illustrations : 
 also a Map of the Country of the Arabian Horse, and a descriptive Glossary of 
 Arabic words and proper names. By Colonel W. Tweedie, C.S I., Bengal Staff 
 Corps, H.B.M.'s Consul-General, Baghdad. [Jii thepress. 
 
 VEITOH. Institutes of Logic. By John Veitch, LL.D., Pro- 
 fessor of Logic and Ehetorio in the University of Glasgow. Post Svo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 The Feeling for Nature in Scottish Poetry. From the Ear- 
 liest Times to the Present Day. 2 vols. fcap. 8vo,inroxhurghe binding. 15s. 
 
 Merlin and Other Poems. Fcap. Svo. 4s. 6d. 
 
 ■ Knowing and Being. Essays in Philosophy. First Series. 
 
 Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 VIRGIL. The ^neid of Virgil. Translated in English Blank 
 
 VersebyG. K. RicKAKD3,M.A.,andLordBAVENSwoKTH. avols. fcap.8vo,ios. 
 WALFORD. Four Biographies from ' Blackwood ' : Jane Taylor, 
 Hannah More, Elizabeth Pry, Mary Somerville. By L. B. Walfohd. Crown 
 Svo, 5s. 
 
 WARREN'S (SAMUEL) WORKS:— 
 
 Diary of a Late Physician. Cloth, 2s. 6d. ; boards, 2s. 
 
 Ten Thousand A- Year. Cloth, 3s. 6d. ; boards, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Now and Then. The Lily and the Bee. Intellectual and Moral 
 
 Development of the Present Age, 4s. 6d. 
 
 Essays : Critical, Imaginative, and Juridical. 5s. 
 WARREN. The Five Books of the Psalms. With Marginal Notes. 
 
 By Rev. Samuel L. Warren, Rector of Bsher, Surrey ; late Fellow, Dean, 
 and Divinity Lecturer, Wadham College, Oxford. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 
 WEBSTER. The Angler and the Loop-Rod. By David Webster. 
 
 Crown Svo, with Illustrations, 73. 6d. 
 
 WELLINGTON. Wellington Prize Essays on "the System of Field 
 
 Manoeuvres best adapted for enabling our Troops to meet a Continental Army.' 
 Edited by General Sir Edward Bruce Hamley, K.C.B.,K.C.M.G. Svo, 12s. 6d. 
 WENLEY. Socrates and Christ : A Study in the Philosophy of 
 Religion. By R. M. Wenlet, M.A., Lecturer on Mental and Moral Philoso- 
 phy in Queen Margaret College, Glasgow; Examiner in Philosophy in the 
 University of Glasgow. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
24 LIST OF BOOKS, ETC. 
 
 WERNER. A Visit to Stanley's Rear-Guard at Major Bartte- 
 lot's Camp on the Aruhwimi. With an Account of River-Life on the Congo. 
 By J. B. Webneb, F.E.G.S., Engineer, late in the Service of the Btat Inde- 
 pendant du Congo. With Maps, Portraits, and other Illustrations. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 WESTMINSTER ASSEMBLY. Minutes of the Westminster As- 
 sembly, while engaged in preparing their Directory for Church Government, 
 Confession of Faith, and Catechisms (November 1644 to March 1649). Edited 
 by the Rev. Professor Alex. T. Mitchell, of St Andrews, and the Rev. Johk 
 Struthebs, LL.D. With a Historical and Critical Introduction by Professor 
 Mitchell. 8vo, iss. 
 
 WHITE. The Eighteen Christian Centuries. By the Rev. James 
 
 White. Seventh Edition, post 8vo, with Index, 6s. 
 
 . History of France, from the Earliest Times. Sixth Thou- 
 sand, post 8vo, with Index, 6s. 
 
 WHITE. Arohseological Sketches in Scotland — Kintyre and Knap- 
 dale. By Colonel T. P. White, B.E., of the Ordnance Survey. With numerous 
 Illustrations, z vols, folio, £^, 4s. Vol. I., Kintyre, sold separately, £2. 2s. 
 
 The Ordnance Survey of the United Kingdom. A Popular 
 
 Account. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 WICKS. Golden Lives. The Story of a Woman's Courage. By 
 Fbbdebick Wicks. Cheap Edition, with 120 Illustrations. Illustrated 
 Boards. 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 WILLIAMSON. The Horticultural Exhibitors' Handbook. A 
 
 Treatise on Cultivating, Exhibiting, and Judt^ng Plants, Flowers, Fruits, and 
 Vegetables. By W. Williamson, Gardener. Revised by Malcolm Dunn, Gar- 
 dener to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry, Dalkeith Park. 
 Cr. 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 WILLIAMSON. Poems of Nature and Life. By David B. 
 Williamson, Minister of Kirkmaiden. Fcap. 8vo, 3s. 
 
 WILLS AND GREENE. Drawing-room Dramas for Children. By 
 W. G. Wills and the Hon. Mrs Gbeeke. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 WILSON. Works of Professor Wilson. Edited by his Son-in-Law, 
 
 Professor Ferbieb. 12 vols, crown 8vo, £2, 8s. 
 
 Christopher in his Sporting-Jacket. 2 vols., 8s. 
 
 Isle of Palms, City of the Plague, and other Poems. 4s. 
 
 Lights and Shadows of Scottish Life, and other Tales. 4s. 
 
 Essays, Critical and Imaginative. 4 vols., i6s. 
 
 The Nootes Ambrosianae. 4 vols., i6s. [8vo, 4s. 
 
 Homer and his Translators, and the Greek Drama. Crown 
 
 WINGATE. Lily Neil. A Poem. By David Wingate. Crown 
 
 8vo, 4S. 6d. 
 
 WORDSWORTH. The Historical Plays of Shakspeare. With 
 Introductions and Notes. By Charles Wobdswobth, D.C.L., Bishop of S. 
 Andrews. 3 vols, post 8vo, cloth, each price 7s. 6d., or handsomely bound in 
 half-calf, each price gs. pd. 
 
 WORSLEY. Poems and Translations. By Philip Stanhope 
 
 WoBSLET, M.A. Edited by EdwabdWobsley. 2d Ed., enlarged. Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 YATE. England and Russia Face to Face in Asia. A Record of 
 
 Travel with the Afghan Boundary Commission. By Captain A. C. Tatf, 
 Bombay Staff Corps. 8vo, with Maps and Illustrations, 21s. 
 YATE. Northern Afghanistan ; or, Letters from the Afghan 
 Boundary Commission. By Major C. B. Tate, C.S.I., C.M.G. Bombay Staff 
 Corps, F.R.G.S. 8vo, with Maps. i8s. 
 
 YOUNG. A Story of Active Service in Foreign Lands. Compiled 
 from letters sent home from South Africa, India, and China, 1856-1882. By 
 Surgeon-General A. Graham Young, Author of ' Crimean Cracks.' Crown 
 8vo, Illustrated, ^s. 6d. 
 
 YULE. Fortification : for the Use of Officers in the Army, and 
 
 Readers of Military History. By Col. Yule, Bengal Engineers. Svo, with 
 numerous Illustrations, los. 6d. 
 
 4/92. 
 
* 
 
 
 i|iiiSii«nii»i&>/j>>:-.j»i<S^^