'■'k'< ALBERT H. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass ^,,-'^1-7—:—- ----' ~ ^^. xr^^ f y% V_W' ^e? From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 073 878 708 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924073878708 The PICAYUNE'S Creole Cook Book FOURTH EDITION ^^^^HE Qviestion of ' 'a good cook' ' is now be- t 1 coming a very vexing problem. The only ^^^ remedy for this state of things is for the ladies of the present day to do as their grandmothers did, acquaint themselves •thoroughly with ,tlie art of cooking in all its im- portant and minutest details, and learn how to properly apply them. To assist the good house- wives of the present day in this, to preserve to future generations the many excellent and match- less recipes of our New Orleans cuisine, to gather these up from the lips of the old Creole negro cooks and the grand old housekeepers who still survive,;* ere they, too, pass away, and 'Creole Cookery, With all its delightful combinations and possibilities, will have become a lost art, is, in a measure, the object of this book. :: :: :: :: :: Retail Price at picayune office, , - $ 1 .00 By Registered Mail, - - $1.25 Copyright 1901, 1906 and 1910 by THE PICAYUNE, - NEW ORLEANS, LA. Picayune Job Print The PICAYUNE'S CREOLE COOK BOOK INTRODUCTION. /■■^^ HE universal favor with which the first editions of THE /j PICAYUNE'S CREOLE COOK BOOK were received ^^J^ throughout the United States, the remarkably short time in which they were exhausted, and the numerous demands for copies that are continually coming in from all sec- tions, has impelled the publishers to issue a Fourth Edition of this work. The Revised Edition has been prepared with great care. Each recipe that has been added has been tried and tested and is ^iven as the result of personal practical experience and success in the Cteole Kitchen. The topics have been more conveniently and systematically classified and arranged, . the niethods of prepa- ration and manipulation in many instances simplified, and the edition, in its entirety, will therefore be found far more complete, comprehensive and valuable than the first. With these explanations THE PICAYUNE sends forth the Creole Cook Book. Its name tells its story and bespeaks its value. It is THE ONLY BOOK OF THE KIND. I'm the Picayune's Weather Trophct, It's Froggie so faithful ami true ; "Xante Zoe'' has asked me to help her In serving so nicely to you, The dishes The Picayune bade her Prepare as a Creole cook can, That men might grow wiser and better, And happiness reign in the land. INTRODUCTION TO THE FIRST EDITION ^MWr N PRESENTING to the public this Creole Cook Book, The Picayune II, is actuated by the desire to fill a want that has long been felt, |l not only in New Orleans, where the art of good cooking was long H ago reduced to a positive science, but in many sections of the country where the fame of our Creole cuisine has spread, and with slight modification incident to local supplies of food articles, many of our most delightful recipes may be adapted by the intelligent housekeeper with profit and pleasure. Time was when the question of a Creole Cook Book would have been, as far as New Orleans is concerned, as useless an addition to our local literature as it is now a necessity, for the Creole negro cooks of nearly two hundred •years ago, carefully instructed and directed by their white Creole mistresses, who received their inheritance of gastronomic lore from France, where the art of good cooking first had birth, faithfully transmitted their knowledge to their progeny, and these, quick to appreciate and understand; and with a keen intelligence and zeal born of the desire to please, improvised and improved upon the product's of the cuisine of Louisiana's mother country ; then came the Spanish domination, with its influx of rich and stately dishes, brought over by the grand dames of Spain of a century and a half ago ; after that came the gradual amalgamation of the two races on Louisiana sdil, and with this was evolved a new school of cookery, partaking of the best elements of the French and Spanish cuisines, and yet peculiarly distinct from either, a system of cookery that has held its- own through suceeodiug generations and which drew from even such a learned authority as Thackeray, that noted tribute to New Orleans, "the old Franco- Spanish city on the banks of the Mississippi, where, of all the cities in the world, you can eat the most and suffer the least, where claret is as good as at Bordeaux, and where a 'ragout' and a 'bouilla- baisse' can be had, the like of which was never eaten in Marseilles or Paris.'' But the Civil War, with its vast upheaval of social conditions, wrought great changes in the household economy of New Orleans, as it did throughout the South ; here, as elsewhere, she who had ruled as the mistress of yestei'day, became her own cook of to-day ; in nine cases out of ten the younger darkies accepted their freedom with alacrity, but in many ancient families the older Creole "negresse," as they were called, were slow to leave the haunts of the old cuisine and the families of which they felt themselves an integral part, Many lingered on, and the young girls who grew up after that period had opportunities that will never again come to the Creole girls of New Orleans. For one of J:he most significant changes and one of the saddest, too, in this old city, is the passing of the faithful old negro cooks — the "mammies," who felt it a pride and honor, even in poverty, to cling to the fortunes of their former masters and mistresses, and out of the scant family allowance to be still able to prepare for their "ole Miss' " table a "ragout" from a piece of neck. meat, or a "pot-au-poivre" from many mixturees that might grace the dining of a king. But the "bandana and tignon" are fast disappearing from our kitchens. Soon will the last of the olden negro cooks of ante-bellum days have passed away and their places will not be supplied, for in New Orleans, as in other cities of the South, there is "a new colored woman" as well as a new white. The question of "a good cpok" is now becoming a very vexing problem , and the' only remedy for this state of things is for the ladies of the present day to do as their grandmothers did, acquaint themselves thoroughly with the art of cooking in all its important and minutest details, and learn how to properly apply them. To assist them in this, to preserve to future generations the many excellent and matchless recipes of our New Orleans cuisine, to gather these up from the lips of the Old Creole negro cooks and the grand old houskeepers who still survive, ere they too, pass away, and Creole cookery, with all its delightful combinations and possibilities, will have become a lost art, is, in a measure, the object of this book. But far and above this. The Picayune, in compiling this book, has been animated by the laudable desire to teach the great mass of the public how to live cheaply and well. The moral influences of good cooking cannot be too forcibly insisted upon. There is an old saying that "the way to a man's heart is through his stomach." Every housewife knows the importance of setting a well-cooked meal before her husband if she' wishes him to preserve his equanimity of tempeii. Every mother should know the importance of pre- paring good, nutritious dishes for, her children in the most palatable and appe- tizing manner, if she would give them that most precious of all gifts "a healthy mind in a healthy body." People are the better, the happier and the longer lived for the good, wholesome, well-cooked daily meal. The introduction, then, of the art of good cooking into every household and a general, intelligent knowledge of the nutritive qualities of food sub- stances, are ends greatly to be desired, for the- best food often loses half its value through the faults displayed in preparation, while, on the other hand, simple and plain dishes may be so cooked that they will acquire a flavor and a nutritive value through special combinations that will please the most deli- cate appetities. Among all classes to-day there is a deplorable and constant waste. Among the rich, the sole aim, of what appears to be good cookery, seems rather an effort to tempt by a succession of highly-seasoned and savory food and to consume to excess ; while among the poor and middle classes living and cooking seem to go on as best they may, with little variety from day to day, and still less care and preparation, indeed, the food is often cooked in such a way that ready digestion becomes an impossibility, and a large portion of the nutriment is either wasted or destroyed utterly. It is proposed in this booli to assist the . housekeepers generally to set a dainty and appetizing table at a moderate outlay ; to give recipes clearly and accurately with simplicity and exactness, so that the problem of "how to live," may become easier of solution and even the most ignorant and inex- perienced cook may be able to prepare a toothsome and nutritious meal with success. The housekeeper is not told "to take some of this, a little of that," and "a pinch" of some other ingredient ; she is not left to the chance of guessing accidentally at the proper proportions of component parts of any dish, but the relative proportions of all ingredients are given with accuracy, the proper length of time required for cooking different dishes. In all the recipes the quantities are given for u, family of six.. The intelligent houses heeper will thus 6e aile to form a happy medium and increase or reduce proportionately according to the size of her family, the numler of invited guests, etc. r- * j ' The Picayune's Creole Cook Booh is not designed for chefs of cuisines ; it has! been prepared with special appreciation of the wants of the household and of that immense class of housekeepers who, thrown upon their own re- sources and anxious to learn, are yet ignorant of the simplest details of good cooking ; for young housekeepers who are left to "experience" for a teacher, and who often learn only after many disheartening failures arid a great outlay and waste of good material, and for the public generally, who, as a rule, have yet to learn that in a well-regulated kitchen nothing is ever wasted, but with careful preparation even the "rough-ends" of a beef steak may be made into a wholesome, tender and appetizing dish ; that "stale bread" may be used in the most delicious "desserts" and "farcies," and "left-over" food from the day before need not be thrown in the trash-box, but may be made into an endless variety of wholesome and nutritious dishes. Hence, especial care has: been taken to rescue from oblivion many fine old-fashipned dishes, and bring them back into general use — dishes whose places can never be equaled by elegant novelties or fancifully extravagant recipes ; special attention has been given to the siiiple, every-day home dishes of the Creole household, while those that tempted the gourmet and epicureans in the palmiest da^fs of old Creole cookery have not been omitted. The Picayune points with pride to the famous "soupes," "gumbos," "ragouts," "en- tremets," "hors d'oeuvres," "jambalayas" and "desserts," that in turn receive particular attention. A special chapter has been devoted to the science of making good coffee "a la Creole," and one to the modes of cooking Louisiana rice. The consumption of rice has increased enormously Of late, and it will continue to become more and more popular as. an article of food when the people in the North and West learn how to cook it, and understand how largely it enters into a variety of delightful and dainty combinations. Our "Galas," our "Pralines," and "Pacane Amandes," our "Marrons Glaces," and Ices, and our "Meringues," and our delicious ways of serving Louisiana oranges peculiar to ourselves alone, are given in respective order. The history of many dishes is also given, thus affording a glimpse into old Creole hospi- tality, customs and traditions. Commendable features are the series of menus for holidays and daily suggestions for the table, as also the thoroughly classi- fied list of seasonable foods. Throughout this ' work The Picayune has had but one desire at heart, and that is to reach the wants of every household in our cosmopolitan community ; to show the earnest houskeeper how the best food may be prepared at the least cost, and how it is possible for every family, from the palace to the cottage, to keep a good taole and at the same time an economical one. "Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well." If this is true of other things, how much more of cooking, upon which the life and health of the family depend. The kitchen should not be looked upon as a place of drudgery ; a poet once sung of "Making drudgery divine j Who sweeps a room as to God's laws. Makes that and the action fine." The benefits that will ultimately accrue to every family, morally and physically, from paying greater attention to the proper preparation of food cannot be overestimated ; the fact that good cooking operates to the greatest extent in the preservation of the domestic peace and happiness of a family cannot be gainsaid. That this Creole Cook Book may find its way to many hearths and homes, and that the life of the household may be the better, healthier and happier for its advent, is the wish of THE nCAYUNE. tCbe jpiicaisune'e Creole Cook Book. (Fourth Edition) CHAPTER I. CREOLE} COFFBQ. Cafe a. la CrSole. A good cup of Ci-eole Coffee. Is there anything liif the whole range of food substances to be com- pared with it? And is there any city in the world where coffee is so delightfully concocted as in New Or- leans? Travelers the world over unite in praise of Creole Coffee, 6r ••Caf§ a la Creole," as they are fond of putting it. The Creole cuisini- eres succj^edea far beyond even the famous chefs of France in discover- ing the secret of good coffee-making, and they have never yielded the palm of victory. There is no place in the 'world in w^hicb the use oX coffee is more general than in the old Creole city of New Orleans, where, from the famous French Market, with its world-renowned coffee stands, to the olden homes on the Bayou St. John, from Lake Pontch- artrain to the verge of SouthpdTt, the cup. of "Caf§ Noir," or -"Caf6 au X.ait," at morning, at noon and at night, has become a necessary and delightful part of the life of the people, and the wonder and the joy of visitors. The morning cup of CafS Noir i« an integral part of the life of a Cre- ole household. The Creoles hold as a physiological fact that this custom contributes to longevity, and point, day after day, to examples of old men and women of fourscore, and over, who attest to the powerful aid they have received through life from a good, fragrant cup of coffee In the early morning. The ancient resi- dents hold, too, that, after a hearty meal, a cup of "Cafg Noir," or black coffee, will relieve the sense of op- pression so apt to be experienced, and enables the stomach to perform Jts functions with greater facility. Cafg Noir is known, too, as one of the best preventives of infectious diseases, and the ancient Creole phy- sicians never used any other deodo- rizer than passing a chafing dish with burning grains of coffee through the room. As an antidote for poison the uses of coffee are too well known to be dilated upon. Coffee is also the greatest brain food and stimulant known. Men of science, poets and scholars and jour- nalists, have testified to its benefi- cial effects. Coffee suppo^rted the old age of Voltaire, and enabled Fon- tenelle to reach his one hundredth birthday. Charles Gayarre, the il- lustrious Louisiana historian, at the advanced age of eighty, paid tribute to the Creole cup of "Cafe Noir." Among advanced scientists it is rap- idly taking the place of digitalis in the treatment of certain cardiac af- fections, and the basis of black, oaf- - fee, "cafffeine," enters largely into medicinal compositions. Coffee is now classed by physicians as an aux- iliary food substance, as retard- ing the waste of nerve tissue and acting with peculiarly strengthening effect upon the nervous and vascular system. How important, then, is the art of making good coffee, entering, as it does, so largely into the daily life of the American people. There is no reason why the secret should be con- fined to any section or city^ but, with a little care and attention, every household in the land may enjoy its morning or after-dinner cup of cof- fee with as much real pleasure as the Creoles of New Orleans and the thou- sands of visitors who yearly migrate to this old Franco-Spanish city. It is, therefore, with pardonable pride that the Picayune begins thla Creole Cook Book by introducing ita 10 readers into a typical Creole kitchen where "Tante Zo§," in the early morning hour, in her quaint, guinea- blue dress and bandana "tignon," is carefully concocting the morning cup ot ' CAFfi NOIR. And the first she will tell you, this old CrSole NSgresse, as she busies herself parching to a beautiful brown the jiiorning portion of green coffee, that the secret of good coffee lies in having Tlie Best Ingredients and in tlie ^ Proper Making. By the best ingredients she means mose delightful coffees grown on well-watered mountain slopes, such , as the famous Java and Mocha cof- fees. It must be of the best quality, the Mocha and Java mixed producing a. concoction of a most delightful aroma and stimulating effect. She will tell you, too, that one of the first essentials is to "Parch the Cof- fee Grains jTJst Before Making the Coffee," because coffee that has bee.i loiig parched and left standing loses its flavftr and 'strengthi The coffee grains should "Be Roasted to a Rich' Brown," and never allowed to scorch- or burn, otherwise the flavor of the coffee is at once affected or de- stroyed. Good coffee should never be boiled. Bear this io- mind, that the GOoD. CREJOL.B COOK NEVER B9P..S COFFEE; but insists on -drip- ping it,,in- at,^di# Cafe Noir, . so.^_ ext,en.3ively usad,' at," morning .d.aiS^n, 'at breaktast,, and'.as the ."afterdinner cup."" . If the .coffee appears/m-ud'ijjc, or^n'ot. clear, some, of the old- Creoje^ "drDP a piece qf charcoaVaij. .i.nch-thi'oi.'in- to. the, water, w-hioh s^t.tles7it'.^n,4 ^t. once- makes it clear. Oem^igtra^ions prove that" strength rema(:;}s'.;,i'n. the' aoffee grounds. A ma1;ter of e'^ynonjy' in making coffee is to save the 11 grounds from the meal or day before and boil these, in a half gallon of water. Settle the grounds by drop- ping two or three drops of cold wa- ter in, &,nd pour~The water over the fresh grounds. This is a suggestion that rich and poor might heed with profit. CAF;e AU LAIT. Proceea in the same manner as in the making of "Cafe Noir," allowing the usual Quantity of boiling water to the amount of coffee used. Wlien made, pour the coffee into delicate china cups, allowing a half cup of coffee to each cup. Serve, at the same time, a -small pitcher of very sweet and fresh cream, allowing a half cup -of cream to a half .cup of coffee. The millt should always be boiled, and the cream very hot. If the cream is not fresh and sweet, it will curdle the coffee, by reason of the heat. Catg au Lait is a great breakfast drink in New Orleans, while Cafg Noir Is more generally the early morning and the afternoon drink. Having thus bid its readers "Good morning," and- drank with them a cup of Cafe Noir, the Picayune will proceed to discuss Creole Cookery in all its "forms, frofn soup "a, la Cre- ole," to "paoandes amandes" anJ "praliii«s." CHAPTER II. :-.-.i SOUPS. '- General Directions for Makjng Soup — The Pot-ia,.u-Feu, -tlae Bouillon " - and the (^onsdnimfc' '' ■"- >:' ■'■ Uncooked meat is the .base of all soups, except such as- tlie Creoles call "Mai-gre," or fast-day soups. These ■■ delightf-al •^'Creatrf SoupB;' or Purges, will be sp'SblSiry trfekted la- ter. They enteV largely into the do- mestic life of New Orleans, as also more particularly the Pot-au-Feu, the Bouillon and the -!p6ns6mm6. These three are the "mother-soups," for upon their careful preparation, depend, taste, .flavor and the entire problem pf good soup-making. The, ancient Creoles preserved with few mbdlAeatjons many of the cus- toms of " their French ancestors. Among .these, was, " the daily plate of soup. . .'■„ In- France soup, enters far more, largely into the l,ife of the people than-^t\, this.- old French city o^ New QrlealijIlThe mprning cup of bouillon lS,Be,r'{jf^in the" jjnost , exclusive homeis, A-c)i(^^,ftf cla,r,et,g.iid-.,a-plat6 of .good., soup is the essential morning portioiijr of _ the peasantry. Soup is always served at dinner from palace to h3Vri «*1, Ap'.i.in,. the "dfiliceus^' cup of ^.r»M iioLi' , is served ,a.t teas and. soirees ;n old France just-a^ served to-day in .its ancient colony pp jtl^e hanks . of , i'ne , Mississippi. The Cre- oles relegated the. morning cup of bouillon,, biii retained ,' the, daily sery.- ing of sous atdi,nner, ajj,,,tin:ve" intro- ducing, as .i^'l.trequent sujjstitute tha,t, exclusive, Cr^flle Gflncpjtion, , ,pj^ml)o. No dinne'-V is ,cpnsi.dered., cc^mplete without cither. The custom" has-been sustairijca. .oct Pot-au-Feu, but of a lighter quality, and is preferred by some Creole cuisiniSres. The vegetables used are found in the "soup bunch" sold by every New Orleans butcher, and carefully ar- ranged. The bunch comprises pieces of cabbage, a turnip or two, carrots, parsley, celery and onion. Many of the most famous Creole cooks add garlic and cloves, thyme, bay leaf and allspice. But this is a matter of taste. The " every day SSuillon is made by boiling the soup bone for four or five hours, skimming care- fully as the scum rises; and adding, as it starts boiling well, the vegeta- bles contained in the "soup bunch." If vermicelli, macaroni or other soup is desired, such as can be made from the simple Bouillon, or Pot-au- Feu, these ingredients are added In the proportions mentioned in the special receipt for these soups, and the soup is boiled an hour or so longer. The Herb Bouquet. Every good Creole cook keeps on hand an "herb bouquet," made of a spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme, celery, parsley and bay leaf. These are tied together, and constitute the "bouquet." It will flavor a gallon of soup. If cooked for an hour. POT-AU-FEUvA LA ORfiOLE. 4 Pounds of Leah Beef. 6 Quarts of CJoId Water. 2 Small Turuips. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Parsnip. 1 Cup of Cut-up Tomatoes. 2 Whole Cloves. 1 Bay Leaf. IClove of Garlic. 5 Allspice. 2 Irish Potatoes. Small Piece of Lemon Peel. Small Piece of Red Pepper Pod. Buuch of Celery Leaves (Chopped.) Bunch of Parsley (Chopped.) Pinch of Salt^. Pinch of Black Pepper. Sprig of Cabbage. This Pot-au-Feu, properly made, is truly delicious, savory and dell- caiely odorous. The best cut for this is from the round low^er end of the beef. It is important to have good beef, and that it be as freshly killed as can be had. Many of the Creoles add the beef spleen or brisket to the soup. This Is rich and juicy, and gives nutritive value to the dish. If -delicacy is preferred to richness in the soup, the marrow bone is omitted. Put the meat into cold water, heating by slow degrees in order that it may gradually pen- etrate the meat, softening It and dis- solving the non-nutritive portion, which rises to the top of the liquid as a scum. As the scum becomes thicker remove it. After having skimmed well, set the soup back where it can be kept on a, gentle but steady, boil; when the soup is well skimmed, add the vegetables, which have been cut to proper fine- ness, and a little salt to suit the taste, and let the soup continue to boil from five to six hours, remem- bering strictly the two essential rules given. By following this recipe you will have an excellent soup for family use. The Creoles often serve the Pot- au-Feu with small squares of dry or toasted bread, put Into the tureen and the hot soup is poured over thein at the moment'-of serving, Should the-ilaV*r of the garlic, allspice, cloves or bay leaf be disa- greeable, they may be omitted. But they are essential ingredients of tlie Creole Pot-au-Feu. A particularly delicate flavor is often obtained by adding to the beef some pieces of raw fowl, or the re- mains of a cooked fowl, more espe- cially the carcass. But never add remains of mutton, pork or veal, as these meats impart an acrid odor, detracting from the perfection of the Pot-au-Feu. BOUILi,ON. To make a good Bouillon is an art in itself. It is the soup that most frequently, after the Pot-au-Feu, en- ters Into the economy of the Creole household. It is not only used in the daily menu, but on occasions of fam- ily reunions and soirfies, is served cold or warm in cups. It is always prepared in a concentrated form for the use of invalids. In illness, where the quantity administered is required to be as nutritious as possible, the round steak should always be chosen for the Bouillon, and It is decidedly better -not to clear the soup, as the pi-ocess of clearing not only destroys a great deal- of ttte-i delicate flavor, but also of tfier-nutriment contained In the BoUilloW/r- Select good fi5gs-h beef, and where intended for arf' invalid allow two pounds of beef to every quart of wa- ter. The B(j^lon should always boil from six ito seven hours. For dinners, luncheons, etc., the follow- ing proportions may be used: 6 POiinda of Beet, without Bone or Fat. 6 Quarts of Cola Water. _ 4 Cloves. Allspice. A Small Cup of Fresli or Canned Tomatoes. 1 Teaspoon of Salt. 1 Spoon of Celery Seed. I Bay Leaf. A Piece of Red Pepper I'od, without Seeds. (Omit for the Sick.) 1 Clove of Garlic (omit for the Sick.) Put these ingredients into the soup kettle, after the Bouillon has been brought to a boil. Then set aside and let it simmer gently, but never allow the soup to rack. After two and a. half hours add A Sprig of Thyme. 1 Onion cut - In pieces. 1 Small Bunch of Celery, If you have not used tbe seed. 1 Medium-Sized Carrot, chopped fl^e. Replace the cover and let ' tlie Bouillon boil gently for two and one- half hours more, making flve hours of actual boiling when not intended for Invalid use. At this stage, from the quantity of ingredients used in the above recipe, the Bouillon will meas- 13 ure about three quarts for. family use. If you decide not to clarify the soup, set it aside and let It settle, then carefully pour off the upper portion, but do not shake the bowl or disturb the sediment. Tlie Creoles then add about a tablespoonful ol celery and a little cayenne. Th's soup requires no artificial coloring, its own strength and long boiling producing a beautiful tint. Should a greater quantity be required, the , housekeeper will guide herself ac- cording to the proportions given in this receipt. To Clarify Bouillon. To clarify Bouillon, remove the fat and pour the broth into a clear ket- tle. Add the crushed shells of two eggs. Stir this into the cold soup until well mixed. Set it on the fire, and from the moment it begins to boil let it cook steadily ten minutes longer. Set it back on the stove or hearth for four or flve minutes to settle. Then strain it through a towel. Allow the Bouillon to drip, remembering never to squeeze the bag. A very clear soup is never a very nutritious one. CONSOMME. 6 Pounds of Lean Beef. 2 Laige-Sized Onions. 2 Carrots. 2- Stalks Celery. 1 Piece of Obbage.,^ Salt and Cayenne tn Taste." A Consommg is a clear soup. Select six pounds of leh.n beef, rump of beef and some bones, and cut the meat into small pieces, the bones also being mashed. Put this on in about six quarts of cold water, and, when it comes to a boil, skim well. Then add a teaspoonful of salt tJ help the scum rise more thoroughly, and skim as • it rises. Take two large sized onions, two carrots, a piece of cabbage and two pieces of celery; chop fine and add to the soup, and let it boil six hours, or until the broth is reduced about one-half the quantity. By this time the meat should be cooked into rags. Pass all through a colander and then strain through a coarse flannel cloth. Season highly with Cayenne pepper and salt to the taste. If the meat is good, the soup will be perfectly clear. If it is cloudy or muddv be- fore straining, crush the shells of two eggs and put them into the soup and let it come to a good boil. Set it back about ten minutes and then strain. Add vermicelli, or -macaroni, br pat§s,-'=a;cooTding to' taste. Th-:s soup will require no artificial col- oring. ., '' ',-$'j Colorings for Soap, Having given the recipes for the "mother soups," which are the bases u of all soups, a word must be said about colorings for soup. While colorings bave been extensively used in New Orleans, the good old Creoles long ago found out that coloring matter,, whether in liatiid form or in balls or tablets, detracted .from the. good flavor of the soup, and that a properly made soup need- ed no coloring. The good Bouillon has a color peculiar to itself — a red- dish yellow, which comes from the juice of the meat. The absence of .natural color In the soup indicates that too small an amount of meat has been used in proportion to th; water, a poor quality of meat, or there has been a too rapid process of boiling. Still, if colorings are desired, the foUowijlg recipe, which is free from the deleterious co.n- pounds sold in siores, has long been used by the .Creoles for coloring gravies, and may be used with good e.tfect.'in soups.' It. is ca.lled by the preoles . ,r. . Caramel. Take about a half pint of brown sugar, put it in a pan, on a slow me, and let it burn or parch, slowly stirring all the time. When it turns a dark brown, add two pints of wa- ter and stir well, and then bottle. Put it away and use a. few drops at a time to color and thicken gravies and soup broths. Or. take a large raw onion, skin and all, and thrust into the burning coals. When it be- gins to brown well, take out of the coals, dust off all the ashes and throw into the soup- or gravy. This will give all the coloring that is needed. More simple or satisfactory recipes cannot be .found. Nevertheless, th^e Creoies jnaintain', and. demonstrate that' the best ooltjring for soups is that .prb'dueed iry good material and long boiling. . CHAPl'lSRIII. MEAT SOUPS. Julienne Soup. '^ Potage "it la JuU'enrtfe. 5 rounds of Lean Beef. 5 Quarts tit Water. 2 T'Jl'Uips.' 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 2 Leelis. A Suaall Stalk- of Culery. 3 Tomatojes. A Small nalf-Heaa of Wliite Cabbage. 1 Gill of areen Peas., The shin of the beef is tli'e best to make a good Julienne ss'up. Set the beef and water in a close vessel where they will heat gradually. Af- ter boiling five or six hours add the fol-lowing vegetables, which have been carefully prepared according to these directions: Cut the vegetables into long, thin shreds. Take a table- spoonful of lard, heat and add the vegetables, letting them fry or smother until a'golden brown. Then add to the ■ boiling broth. If fresh peas are used they must be boiled apart. If canned peas, simply add to the broth, after throwing in the veg- etables. Let them cook in the broth one hour longer- and serve hot with the 'vegetables. , Verjnicelll Soup. G-onsonlmg, ou Potage au Vermicelle. '-■% Pint of Broth to Each Person."" 1 Oiiijce of Vermicelli to Each Person. Prepare a good Bouillon, or Pot- au-Feu, or Consommg, according to the taste of the household, the sim- ple Pot-au-Peu being most generally lused.' ■ A half hour before -serving add the vermicelli to the broth, and serve hot. nincnroni Soup. Potage au Macaroni. 2 Quarts of Broth. 14 Pound of Macaroni. Prepare a good Pot-au-Feu, or Bouillon, according to directions giv- en, and allowing a quarter of a pound of macaroni to- two q.uarts of broth. Break the macaroni into two-inch length pieces and add to the boiling broth about a half hour or so before serving. Some housekeepers cook the macaroni seperately in salted boiling water about ten or fifteen minutes draining thoroughly, and dropping into the boiling broth about fifteen minutes before serving. The soup is often served with Parmesan cheese, grated. But this is not necessary. Tapioca Soup. Potage au Tapioca. 4 Ounces of Tapioca. 3 Quarts of Broth. To three quarts of broth add, about forty minutes before serving, four ounces of tapioca. ' The tapioca should be previously soaked a few hours. Stir frequently in the broth while boiling, and serve hot. Sngo Soup. Potage au Sago. 3 rints of Eroth. 2 OLnues of Sago. The sago should always be soaked overnight. Allow two ounces to every three pints of broth or Con- somme. Boil for one hour before serving, stirring occasionally. Rice Soup, Potage au Riz. 1 Half Cup of Rice. 3 Piuts of Bi-otu oi- Consomme. Prepare the clear Pot-au-Feu or ConsommS. Wiren nearly done add one naif cupful of rice, whicli has been thoroughly washed and dried. Cooki for about twenty-five minutes longer, or until done, and serve. Barley' soup is prepared after the same style, using a Clear Bouillon or Consommg. Okra Soup. Potage au P-6vi. ■ H- 2 Ppunds of Beef -vvitliout.fat or bone. 2 Cup" jf Okra, cliopped fine. Vi Pound of Butter. 4 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Onlpu, ..sliced and cjiopped. I ^ Salt and Pepper. Cut the beef into small pieces, and .seaso,n well with butter, pepper and sajt. I'j^y^.it in the soup- kettlie with tjie. onion gknd butter, until very brown. Then add the cold water and let it simmer for an hour and a half. Add the okra and let it simmer gent- ly for three or four hours longer. Ox-Tail Soup. Soupe de Queue de Boeuf. ■ ■ ■ 1 Ox Tall. A Bunch of Soup Herbs. 1 Head of Celery, 4 (Juarta of Boilins Water. 1 Large Oniuu. 2 Carrots. 3 Cloves. ' A Mpris of Parsley. A Small Slice of Lean Ham or Beef. Salt and Pepper. Cut the tail in pieces trom the joint, - and then cut again into the size' of a peanut, or one inch and a half in length. Chop the onions verj^ fine. Put the onion and a tablespoonful of lard into a frying pan and add the ox tail. Cook slow- ly until it begins to brown, then add the carrot, cut in pieces about the size of a green pea, and about a sauare inch of ham, chopped very fine. Let this brown, and. when it begin.s . to, brown nicely, add the thyme, ■' bay leaf,- three cloves, one clove- .ol garlic, all chopped very fine. Let this continue to brown, being careful hot to burn, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, dredged in lightly and stirred, and when all is nicely browned, add about five quarts of Consomme, if you have it; if not, Ave quarts of boiling water and three tablespoonfuls of barley. Let it cook together about four hours, simmering gently, seasoning with salt, pepper and cayenne to taste, and when ready to serve, add two tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. Serve one joint to each person. Wine may be omitted. Noodle Soup. Pctage au Nouilles. 3 Qu'arts of Good Bouillon or Consomme. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. Tlie Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Flour. MiTablespoouful of Salt. Prepare a good Bouillon or Con- somang. To a quart .,of the soup, add noodles made as follows: Beat the yolks of three eggs, and the white of two together until very light; add one cup of flour, one half teaspooii- of salt, and mix with cold water; making a stiff paste; roll very thin; then roll each strip to form a tube; cut in strips,- grease and sim- mer a few at a time -in boiling salt water . for about twenty minutes. Simmer the noodles in the soup about f.tteen minutes. Musliroom Soup.. Potage ail Champignons. Vi Pound of Good Macaroni. >/i Pound of Fresh Mushrooms or a Halt Can of Mushrooms. ^ Carrot and Onion. ", Tablespoonfuls of Butter. . - 2 Pints of Consomme or Bouillon. 1 Pint of Cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. - Salt and Pepper to Taste. Break the macaroni into pieces of about three inches; wash and put in- to a stewpan, with two quarts df boiling water; add three teaspoonfuls of salt. Let the macaroni boil half an hour, and meanwhile make a sauce. Put the butter and flour in a small stewpari and beat to a cream. Then add the chopped onion, carrot and pepper, and remaining salt and broth, and heat slowly. When the sauce begins to boil, set it . back, -where it will only simmer, for about twenty minutes. At the end of that time, add the crBam and then strain the sauce. Pour the water from the -mp-caroni, and in its place put the sauce, and mushrooms; cook for five minutes, and serve hot. The Creole housekeeper never u-Ses any iDut a silver spoon in cooking fresh mushrooms. If the- spoon is darkened, the mushrooms are not good. This is an infallible test in using. fresh mushrooms. The canned French mushrooms are not only the best, but the safest. 16 Fotage Croupe-au-Pot. 3 Quarts of Good Consomme. 10 Pieces of Dried Toast. 1 Carrot, cut flue. 1 Head of Celery, cut flue. 1 Turnip, cut flue. Potage Croute-au-pot is one o£ the most popular and excellent Cre- ole soups. Prepare a good co i- sommg. In the meantime, parboil ttie vegetables in salted boiling water. When tender, drain off the water, and add to them about two and one- half quarts o( the boiling consommfr Let them simmer until they are very tender. Prepare the toasts and put them into a saucepan with enough consomme to cover them. Simmer gently until the toasts have absorbed all the consomme and show signs of drying up. Then add a little hot consomme, detach them from the saucepan, lay them in the tureen and pour the soup with the vegetables very gently over them. Serve Im- mediately- Savory Soup. Potage a. la Bonne MSnagSre. 4 Pounds of Lean Beet. 4 Quarts of Water. 1 Onion, chopped fine. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. liBny Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. %Cup. of Rice. 3 Tablespoonf uls of Oatmeal. ^ • 1 Tablespoonf ul of Salt.. %■ Teaspoonf-ul of Pepper. Put the meat in four quarts' of cold water -and let it simmer for three hours. One hour before serving, adl one- halt cup of rice, which has been soaked in water until soft, and three tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, one table- spoonful of salt and one-fourth tex- spoonful of pepper. Add parsley, sprig of thyme and, one onion, chopped fine. Boil an houf^ longer and serve, very hot. This makes a delicious soup. Corn Soup. Soupe au Mai Tendre. 6 Pounds of the Lower Bibs of Beef, a Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Quart of Sliced Fresh Tomatoes. 1 Quart of Corn, sliced from the cob. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. One Pod of Cayenne Pepper, without seeds. Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Corn soup is one of the most popu- lar Creole summer soups. . At this season, when corn' and tomatoes are plentiful, the following will be found not only a delicious, but a highly nu- tritive soup: Take six pounds of the lower ribs of the beef, a quart of sliced fresli tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced fro.n the cob, six quarts of water, one tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. Put the meat'and water Into 9 BOup- rot, and as soon as the scum begins, to rise, skim carefully. Then add the tomatoes and the corncobs. Cook for four hours or so longer; then take- out the corncobs, and add the corn,, cut fine, salt and pepper to suit the- taste, adding a pod of Cayenne pep- per, without the seeds; cook one hour longer and then serve with slices of toast bread. Tomato Consomni£. Consomme de Tomates. A Shin of Veal. 3 Pounds of Shin of Beef. 8 Quarts of Wo*er. 1 Cup of Tomatoes. A Handful of Sorrel (if tomatoes are not used.) Salt and Pepper. 3 Onions. 3 Leeks. 10 AUspirp 6 Cloves. 3 Large Carrots. 1 Head of Celery. 1 Bunch of Parsley. A Chicken may be substituted for the Shlu of Veal. Put the meat and chicken (the lat- ter cut up) into a large soup kettle and let it come slowly to a boil. Then draw it forward, and as it begins to boil more rapidly skim as the scum rises. After another hour add the pepper, salt and vegetables. The soup should boil incessantly, but gently, for about eiglit" "hours, re- quiring in all about nine hours of good coofeing. It should, there'fore, be put on very early in the morning, and, if required, for luncheon, should be made the day before. When the soup has boiled gently for the pre- scribed time take it off, strain Into a large bowi and set it away in the ice box until the next day, if not for immediate use. Then remove the fat from the surface, and pour off all the clear part into a saucepan and boil again for one or two hours. Then remove it from the fire. This will make a stiff jelly, which will keep in "Winter for several days in the ice box. It also serves to make a beau- tiful Sauce Espagnole, or Spanish Sauce. The best way to keep It is in earthern pitchers holding from one to two quarts, allowing a certain quantity for each day. This soup requires no artifiuial coloring. Use the thick part of the soup with vegetables or other pur6e. Mock-Turtle Soup. Soupe !\ la Tortue. 1 Calf's Head. 14 Pound of Calf's Liyer. 5 Quarts of Cold Water. Bunch of iSonp Herbs. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs.. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. .1 Gill of Sherry. 1 Bay Leaf. 12 Cloves. 1 Onion. 1 Lemon. 4 Level Teaspoonfuls of Flour. 1 Turnip. 1 Level Teaspoonful Mushroom Catsup. 1 Carrot. 1 Level Teaspoonful Worcestershire Sauce Salt and Pepper to Suit Taste 17 Select a fine calf's head, not too large. If large^ reserve half and the tongue and brains to make an- other dish. Get the butcher to crack the head well and remove the brains. Wash ttfe head thoroughly in cold water, and then be careful to pour boiling water through the nose and throat passages u ' '1 they are per- fectly clean, and sciuiO out the ears thoroughly, washing very clean. Einse all well in cold water, and be very sure that the head is very sweet and clean before attempting to cook U. Put the head In a kettle with five quarts of cold water, and set it over a moderate Are. When it be- gins to boil well, skim thoroughly, till every particle of scum has been taken oft. Then set it back and let it simmer until the meat is quite ten- der. This will require about two hours and a half. Then remove the head; take the meat from the bones; skin the tongue, and set away to cool. Return the bones to the ket- tle, with the vegetables, which have been washed and cut fine; as, also, the spices and the liver. Simmer gently again for two hours, and when cool, strain. Set aside to cool, and Ttrhen the soup is cold, remove all the fat. Put the butter in a sauce-,- pan and , melt, adding the flour li^il- nicely browned, but be careful got to burn it. Then add by degrees the boiling soup, stirring constantly. Boil, -keeping uj) & gentle istir, for, about five minutes. Then add the meat of the head and the liver, hav- inar first cut them into dice, and bring to a boil at once. Take the saucepan from the fire, and add the catsup, salt, pepper and wine. Slice the hard-boiled eggs and the lemon and place them in the tureen, and pour the soup over them and serve. If force-meat balls are desired for the soup, prepare them as follows: Forc^-Meat Balls. Chop a half of a pound of beef or veal and chopped chicken about an Inch in thickness; add a little of the liver and tongue of the calf, a. half dozen small onions, one tablespoonful of sweet marjoram, one grated nut- meg, a teaspoonful each of powdered black pepper and mace, and a half, teaspoonful of cloves (powdered),' three eggs, three grated crackers (sifted), half a gill of good sherry wine, a tablespoonful of butter and two teaspoonfuls of salt; chop up and mix thoroughly together. Then roll in balls and fry slowly In lard or butter. Serve with the soup. Mutton Droth. Soupe de Mouton. 8 Pounds of the Neck of the Mutton. 4 Quarts of Cold Water. Vi Cup ot Bice. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Large Turnips. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the neck of the mutton, or wipe it with a damp towel, and put it into the kettle with the cold water. Let it come to a slow boil and skim carefully. Cover well and let it sim- mer for about four hours. Then re- move from the stove and pour into an earthern vessel to cool. When cold, remove all the fat from the surface, or, better still, remove all the fat before boiling. Return to the kettle and add the rice, the sliced turnip and the bay leaf, and season to taste, or prepare as in Oxtail Soup. Chicken Broth, Bouillon de Volaille. To make a good chicken broth for invalids, take one good large chick- en; clean carefully and cut up, being careful to mash all the bones with an ax. Place in a saucepan of cold water, and let it simmer gently for four or five .hours, until it is boiled down to about twCk; cups of broth. It will have a'i-ich, strong color, and this broth, seasoned with a little salt Etfid pepper, omitting all vegetables, mix be taken by the most delicate stomachs. Chicken ConBomme. Consomme de Volaille. 1 Large Chicken Cut in Pieces. 1 Onion. 3 Quarts o£ Cold Water. 1 Small Stalk of Celery. 1 Carrot. 1 Turnip. Salt and Pepper, Put the chicken into the salt and wrater and let it simmer gently until the scum begins to rise; then skim. Add the other ingredients. Boil gen- tly for two hours, and serve, with slices of toast. The chicken left over will serve to make croquettes, or chicken salad. Nothing is ever wasted in a well regulated house- hold. Gilt-Bdged Consomme. Consomme Dor§. 1 Fine Chicken. 1 Good Soup Bone. 1 Slice of Fine Ham. 1 ftaUoGof Water. 2 Eggs, whites and shells. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. % Each of Small Parsnip, Carrot and Head of Celery. 1 Onion. 3 Cloves. iSalt and Pc-pper. Have the fowl thorouhly cleaned, and put the chicken, beef and ham into a kettle of cold water of the quantity mentioned in the above, and boil slowly for five hours, being care- 18 ful to keep the pot well covered. Chop the onion and vegetables and fry them in a little butter, and add all the seasonings to the soup. Boil two hours longer, and set a'way over- night in an ice box. The next day remove all the fat; from the top take out the jelly, leaving the thickest part o£ the sediment, which is good to put into a thick soup. Mix in the shells and the whites of eggs and boil quickly for about ten minutes. Then set it on the hearth to settle. Pour the soup through a thin bag without squeezing; if it does not come out perfectly clear, pass it through again. It should then be a beautiful golden-brown color. Only the brightest aiid cleanest of kettles should be used, and the sieve should be scalded each time to keep the par- ticles froin washing back Into the soup. This is a delightful soup for luncheons and dinner parties. It may be garnished according to taste, serving with "Croutons," or Que- r.elles. No artificial, coloring should ever be used, in making the Con- sommg DorS. Depend upon the na- tural ingredients for the golden- brown color so much admired by all chefs. , ■__ Coii!ioiumg"Wi-j^ .4j£eys[ or TTour Chickens. Chop 'the onion fl^ne and^ put it into the stcwpan with 'the' butter; let it brown, and then-add the chopped veg- etables, whole giblets, etc; fry until nicely browned; but do not let it burn. -Then silt the giblets with a knife, that the juices may run out in boiling, and put all into- the soup ■ kettle, with pepper, salt, sage, par- sley, and the three quarts of con- sommfi or boiling Water. Add bones Or lean meat, cooked or raw, that are left, preferably the meat of the chick- en, and let all simmer for five hours. Then strain. Mash o"ne liver fine and add it to the broth; season with Ca- yenne pepper, lemon juice to taste, and two tablespoonfuls of Madeira or Port wine. Boil three minutes, and have in the tureen one hard- boiled yolk of an eg-g for each per- son. Pour the soup over it and serve hot. Rabbit Soup, Potage de Lap'in; 2 young Babbits.' 2 Quarts of Cold 'Water. 'l Onion. • 1 Bay I,eaf. :•.- . 1 Blade of ilaee.. 1 , Tablespoontul of Batter. Vi Cup of Rice. Cajenne Pepper, % Pod. Salt to the Taste. This is a famous Creole soup. The rabbits should be well skinned and singed. Wash thoroughly in warm ,19 water; this is. very important. Then cut the meat into small' pieces and put Into the soup pot, with the quan- tity of water given. Chop the onion, mace and bay leaf and add. Place on a very moderate flre, and let it sim- mer gently until the meat has grown very tender. This will require about two hours. or less. Add the salt, pep- per and rice, and sdmmer for an hour longer. Pour into the tuseen over croutons and-serve. The Creol-es add two taWespObnfuls of sherry or port wine, thus increasing the delicacy of the flavor. " iSqnirrel Soup. Potage d'Ent sey^n hours. Put. away in ttte jce,box:till n.eede^._ ..Chop the par- tSley and hqrbs- fine and.; pn;e.-half of , the ^r^_d pepper podj and,a4,d.!to the bpiling knupkle of xeal, .and. also the ■ potatoes; which, hg.ve,.,b§ej!», jcut into dice. Cut up the tripsi.iinto'. pieces of about one inch square. Take out the knuckle of: veal;.a,Ti'd cut aap meat iato ■' small . pfebes,, and- add"aU; .with .the tripe to.the saiip. .-jAt-tiie' boiling .poipit, season witoiBa'Wxand' pepper. . '''•" TAe.',.Creoles' sfeV-ve'/thls 'gbnp" -With ■Croil'toris. ■ 'Throw -tMetti 'Into the soupi' I'st it slm.tnef' for 'about ten minutes, morS and shi'v^:'-- ' ''" CHAPTER IV. Soupes" d SOUPS.' ■•' e Poi'ssons.- Under this heading come some of the most delightful Creole soups, such 'as Gr6en Turtle Soup, Oyster Soup, Crawfish Bisque, etc. These not only ■'serve as fast-day soups, but are con- "sidered elegant introductions to the hiost rScherchS feast. Fish Soup. , Bouillon de Polsson. ' G Siives of Pish' of Almost Any Variety. X '' -'4 Onions, Chopped Fine. €>-Tomatoes, Chopped Fine. 1 Herb Bouquet. Sprig of Parsley, 1 Glass of White' Wine, 4 Tablespooutuls of Salad Oil. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 3 Pints of Water. 'ChOjP "the onions and fry them in the salad 'oil. Cut the tomatoes fine and add' onions, and put in all the other ingredients, except the fish, adding the fiour to make a good roux. "When brown add the water, and, af- ter it has boiled about a halt hour, add the slices of fish. "When they are firm remove the herb bouquetr add Cayenne pepper, and salt and: pfirp- per to taste, and serve the.fl'shit'SDup in a. tureen, pouring it over CTJUSts.'of dried toast. - Green' Turtle Soup.' S-oupe'a.Ja Ijbrtue... 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat,, or a Z-Pound Turtle. Z^'Fiiie Large Onioiis. ' ' C Cloves. 1 Square inch Of Ham. 'ti Allspice. 2 ClOTes -Of Garlic. 2 Tablespoonfuls- ot Flour. % -of ti Small Lemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Glass ot Sherry .Wine. Parsley, Tliyme, .Jiay Leaf. iSalt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. The Creoles pride themselves upon their, famous "Soupe si la -Tortue," and justly; the old saying that only a good- Creole cook knows how-to make a -good Turtle Sotip being testified to by ! epicurean - visitors ' frotii every country. -.i '■■•'■' '''•'• The following 'is One ''of''the sim- plest and best ways of 'tn'aking'' Tur- tle Soup — a recipe that 'may-always be belied upon and -one that' hSlfe -been used from ggneratfSn "to generation ill the-'Hiost'aristocrati'c Creole homes: -' 1-ri- making Turtle Soup, remember that Green Turtle is always the best for' this purpose. Select tvo pounds of fine Green' Turtle meat, if the tur- tle' is not bought whole. This amount Will make a soup for six per- sons. Increase proportionately. If 20 the turtle is bought whole, first cut oft the head. To do this properly, the turtle should be hung with the head downwards, and a very sharp knife should be used to cut off the head as close as possible. Often for hours after this operation is per- formed, the turtle will exhibit extra- ordinary signs of life, the flesh quiv- ering constantly. The old CieOli cooks say that a turtle never dies, but Liiis is a darky tradition. To re- move the shells, first separate the up- per from the lower shell, always be- ing exceedingly careful to avoid touching the gall bladder, which is very large. If this bladder is pene- trated, the contents running over the turtle meat would render it utterly unfit for use. Clean the turtle and the entrails by cutting open and washing thoroughly in cold water. Then put the meat and entrails into a saucepan and par- boil about ten minutes. Be careful to save this stock of water. Chop an onion very fine, and the ham into very fine pieces. Cut the turtle meat into one-inch pieces, mash the cloves and the allspice very fine and chop the thyme and bay leaf. Brown the onions in a taWesMonful of butter er lard, and add Imnilrtiiafely the tur- tle meat. Brown™ together slightly and after minutes add the chopped ham. Let this' cpfttinue browning- and then add twS"" cloves g^' garlic; chopped fine, and the thy^ije, bay leaf (minced fine), cloves Eyh4 all- spice (ground), all mix^d,;fSpgether^ and lay on the turtle. Stir^lhis al- most constantly to prevent 'burning, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour that has been well rubbed, stirring constantly all the time. Then dis- solve the meat with the water in which the turtle was parboiled, add- ing gradually until a certain consis- tency is reached. About three quarts of water will be the required amount. Season this with salt, black pepper and Cayenne to taste, and boil slowly for fully an hour, stirring al-nost constantly. After cooking one hour taste, and if not seasoned sufficiently season again and taste. Then chop one-quarter of a small lemon and put It in the soup. Let it continue to cook, and when well done— that Is when no blood exudes from the tur- tle after sticking it with a fork- pour into the tureen. Add the whites and yolks of two hard-boiled esgs chopped fine, and one good glass of Sherry wine, and the soup Is ready to serve. This is a dish fit for a king and IS most highly recommended as a genuine Creole Turtle Soup If Quenelles or Forcemeat BUs are desired, they may be prepared according to the recipe given under the heading "Quenelles." (See re- cipe, under chapter "StuflSngs and Dressings," etc.) Turtle Sonp No. 2. Soupe a, la Tortue. 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat. % Tablespoonful of Lard. 14 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tomatoes. 1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Tbyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clora of Garlic. 1 Square Incb of Ham. 1 Dozen Cloves Tied In JIusIin. 6 Allspice Mashed Fine. 3 Quarts of Water. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Glass of Sherry or White Wine. Salt and Ca.^enne to laste. Clean the turtle and entrails bjr cutting open the latter and washing thoroughly in cold water. The:i put the meat and entrails Into a saucepan and parboil them for ten minutes. Carefully save this stock of water. Chop the onion very fine, and cut the ham into very fine pieces. Cut the turtle meat Into one-inch pieces; mash the allspice very fine, and mince the parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Then brown the onions in the lard and Ijutter. mixed,, and. almost Infrifediately add the turtle' meat. Brown together for ten minutes and add the finely chopped ham. As this continues to brown, add the cloves of garlic, (minced flne)^ the thyme and bay leaf and the ground allspice. Mix all together, stirring almost constantly to prevent burn- ing. Then add the weU>-rubbed table-- spoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly. Scaldii^nd skin the toi&toes and chop them fine, and add to the turtle meat. When well-browned, pour over three quarts of the water In which the tur- tle was parboiled, season with salt and pepper and Cayenne to taste, anJ let it boil slowly for fully an hour, stirring frequently. After one hour, taste the soup, and, if not sufficiently seasoned, add seasoning of salt, pep- per and Cayenne again, according to taste. Let it cook for an hour longer and then take off the stove if the tur- tle IS thoroughly done. This may be ascertained by sticking it with a fork. If no blood exudes, the soup IS ready to serve. Take off the stove and strain through a colander Into the tureen. Add the wiiues and yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and one good glass of Sherry or White Wine. Slice a lemon fine and add to the soup and serve hot. How to Serve Turtle Sonp. (^^''fu* '^^"^ should be taken In serv- mmd that boiling the soup a second time, or warming it over, deprives It Of much Of its delicious Sr To avoid this, mi.two tureens wUhbon- 21 ing water; let them stand a few min- utes, then dry the inside thoroughly and place the tureens in a "bain- marie," or a hot-water bath. Fill the tureens with the soup and cover tightly. Bring them to the table as needed, throwing in Just before serv- ing, some dainty slices of lemon. It the meat is served, use only the most delicate portions. 1 Mock EgKs for Turtle Soup. . , Should the turtle possess no eggs, the following method of making mock eggs is often used. Break and beat thoroughly one fresh egg; then take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and rub them into a fine paste with about a teaspoontul of butter. Mix this with the raw egg and roll into pellets of the identical size and shape of the turtle eggs, let them He in boiling water about two minutes, and then drop into the soup. Terrapin Soup. Soupe a. la Tortue. 1 Two-Ponnd Diamoad-Back Terrapin. 2 Fine Large Onions. 6 ClOTes. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 6 Allspice. ^ of a Small Iiemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. -:. 1 Glass ot Sherry Wine. Parsle.r, Thyme aiid Bay Leaf. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Remember always that the land terrapin is unfit to eat. The fre^sjjr water -t^i*apin cari'''"*Sfe^mad«''- into a most relishable article of food if cooked according to Creole methods. The diamond-back terrapin is the bbest and the females make the finest •and daintiest food, the males being not only of inferior size, but of far less delicate flavor. Terrapins must always be bought alive. They are in season from November till March, and, like all other fish, should not be eaten out of season. The red leg Or fresh-water terrapin, or the ter- rapin of common variety, called "Gopher," are eschewed by the Cre- oles, but are good to eat. To have a good terfapin soup th& diamond back must be used. To make the soup, clean the terra- pin as you would a turtle. Then place in a kettle and boil till tender. Take out and cut Into small pieces, saving the water. Proceed as for Turtle Soup. When it boils up take from the fire, add a grated nutmeg, a glass of Sherry or Madeira wine and serve. The fare! or forcemeat balls is made in exactly the same manner as for Turtle Soup. Serve with green pickle and delicate slices . of fried toast. CrawfiHh Bisque. Potage a, la Bisque d'Bcrevisse. 8 Dozen Fine Large Crawfish. 3 Onions. 1 Carrot. 1 Bunch of Celery. 2 Spiigs ot Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 4 Sprigp jf I'nrsley. 6 Cloves. 2 Blades of Mace. j 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. A Dash ot Cayenne. 1 Seedless Cayenne Tod. Salt and Pepper to Taste. k>rawflsh Bisque is a distinctive Creole luxury. It is prepared as fol- lows: Take about eight dozen fine, large crawfish and wash thoroughly, being careful to cleanse of every particle of dust or sand. Set to boil in about a gallon of water. "When boiled, take the fish out of the water; save the water. Pick out two dozen ot the largest crawfish; pick out the inside of the tails and save the heads, clean- sing them of every particle of meat. Set this meat to one side with the shells of the head. Pick the meat from the rest of the crawfish, saving all the shells. Take one large onion, a carrot, a bunch of celery, a sprig ot thyme, one bay leaf, three sprigs ot parsley, six cloves and two blades of mace, one clove of garlic; chop all very fine and put into the pot of wa- ter in which the crawfish were boiled. Add all the picked meat, except the reserved tails, and all the shells of the bodies and heads, except the reserved heads. Add one cup of rice and let it all boil tiU 'the mixture becomes thick and wnishy. -"When it Is well cooked, take it oft the Are and mash the sheila thoroughly, and the meat also, and strain all through a sieve. Take about a tablespoonful of butter and two quarts of oyster liquor and add this to the soup, seasoning to taste with Cayenne, salt and black pepper. Set to boil slowly. In the meantime, take the reserved crawfish ment and make a stuffing as follows for the reserve heads; chop an onion very fine and let it brown in a tablespoon- ful ot butter. Squeeze thoroughly a cup of breacj wet with water. When well squeezed, mix with a little milk, sufficient to make a paste, season to taste and mix with the well-seasoned crawfish meat. Chop another onion and put in melted butter, and add the crawfish stuflUng. letting all fry about ten minutes, adding. In the meantime, a finely-chopped sprig each ot thyme and parsley and a bay leaf, and mix- ing thoroughly. Take off the fire and stuff the reserved head of craw- fish. Put on every stuffed head a dot of butter, and set In the oven and bake ten minutes. Place the stuffed heads In the tureen and pour the soup over. Serve hot with CroQtons 22 of buttered' toast, passing the latter in a sep.arate /I'Sh. i ' CrawiftisU Soup. pQtage d'fiQrevisses. 60 Prne, Large Crawflsb. IM Pouiids o£ a Fillet of Veal. 1 Slice ()£ Ham. 1 Herb Bouquet. - 1 Halt Can" of Mushrooms. 2 Tablespoon Culs of Klour. 2 Carrots. 1 Talilespoonful of Butter. 1 Clove,. o£,pailic. U-arge O.nion. 1 Parsnip. 1 D,ozeh Almonds. 1 t)ozen Allspice. - .' 4 Shallots-.' 6 Tomatoes or a Half Can. . Croutons. Wash the tr^Wflsh thoroughly Aver and-,,over''a^ain to take a.way every particle'' of dust. "Then l)6il them in plain Water. S'av^" the water. Take out't.he ctawfisli 'and take off a.ll the ' shells, ■ putting the meat aside. Pound the. shells, fine; pouijd one doz- en almonds flSe^jand mix thoroughly with 'the meat of thfe crawfish, and, pound, this in a mortar, In the meanwhile, talte one pouhdahd a lia.l| of a fllSt [Of vfeal aup'ra ^j'Tpe of ba.^t and cut -in smaYl pieces. '"Cut up,..tiie onion^ 'carrots and parsnips. Put' one tablespoonful of lard in a kettle, and wheh'it ?^egins to heat, add the herb bouquet (sweet basil, parsley; ' bay leaf), the onions, jigirsnip, shallots," clove of garlic, chopped fine; as these brown, add the veal' and ham. Add two tablespoonfiiis of floiir g,nd butter, rubbed, and the mushrooms, chopped finely. Let these simmer' for about five minutes and then add the to- matoes, allspice and cloves. After ten minutes, when the ' mixture is well browned, add the pounded craw- fish shells and the pounded meat and almonds. Pour over all the water from the boiled crawfish and set it back on the stove and let it simmer for about two hours. Skim off all the' grease when near time for serv- ing. -Then strain through a sieve, and serve with Croflfons of toast, out in"slices, placed' In the bott,o.Ti Of the tureen. ■"•■•: ■ ■ i' .■ On fast, ■ days, instead' of . quTmtitles, iaijdT a herb bouquet Into the* oyster jmefe, being careful to aliow it to i give just the desired flavor; and taking it out before adding the milk. ■ But this, too, is a matter of taste.- Made .-ac- cording to the: above -formula., oysteri soup is a most delightful dish jahdi can be eaten and relished /.hy tlie most delicate stomachs.-^ .' ^ cii'/i-.a - -"/,' ■'■ — rr^T Oyster, Soup Without Milk, ,r.,, S,bup? au'x' lluitres a la Cir.^oXe.''. ,'] The Creoles have" another, d'ft'lishtr!, ful methj}^ of p'veparihg oyster.' n'o'dvu' a methoct'ev'ol-s^ed by the pld negro cooks of ante-b.eUum dajfs, and stl'lf in vogue in the ancient families. 23 It Is a eoup made witHouf milk and Is prepared as follows: ' Take ' 4 Dozen BayoUj.Cook Oysters. The Oyster Xlquor. 1 Large Onion. . 1 'Tablespoonful of Lard, ■ ■ 2 Tablespoonfuls ol Siltea Flour. 4 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tatilespdonful o£ Butter. 1 Quart of Boiling Water. Put the tablespoonful of lard into the soup kettle. Have ready one on- ion, some parsley, chopped very fine. When the lard is hot, stir in two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and make a Brown Eoux (see recipe), stirring coiistantl-y to prevent, burn- ing. Wherl. the .' Roux, is ot a light brown color,' add the chopped onions and parsley, continulrig to stir, being exceedingly careful to avoid the sem- blance of burning. Strain the oys- ter juice of about-four dozen oysters into the Roux, mixing .thoroughly, to avoid bits of shell; mix with about a quart of boilings water :and pour Wh-en it shows -signs.- of coming to a boil, add the oysters and a teaspoon- ful of butter. At the boiling point remove from. tk;e ■stove aiKd serve with oyster soda, qraxskerg. or' dry toast, the oyster craokersrtbsing always pre- ferable. ' .'.r; : :.'' This form of sjouprma-y be improved by usiag.. the. .milk ins'teadol the hot Di.ater, but neither isteSK'JS) very, pal- . ... ■.-. ..it* ui' atable and a great favorite as a fast-day soup. Crab Soup. Potage de Crabes. 1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 6 Hlpe Tomatoes. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Largo Onion. 1 Clove^of Garlic. . 1 Tcaspoonful of B'uft^i^' 2 Tablespoonfuls (level) of Lai'fl'. 1 Lemon. Salt, Pepper and Cayegue. Cleanse the crabs thoroughly and extract, all the meat ffom the body and claws; sca)d and skin the toma- toes, and squeeze, the pulp from the seeds and juice; cl^op very fine. Pour boiling water over- the seed and juice and strain. Chop the^oniort and gar- lic and stew with the' tablespoonful of butter and lard.. 'A's they begin to brown, add the tdm&.to'es, cover, and, after simmering k few miftutes, add the well-seasoned meat' of the - crab. Sift oyer this s6me grated bread or crackers and season with Cayenne, sweet marjoram and thyme. Pour in tomS,to w'ater and- add about a quart or more' 6f water,' arid let it. boil mo'derately for about an hour. Add the juic^' bf two.' lenibiis a:nd serve." '■ ' ■''' ;/.J?ttrn. CHAPTER V. htillEXTEN SOUPS. Totaiies Maigres. The Creoles excel in th.e, prepara- tion of soups, T^jt^put meat,, or,, fast- day soups, as'',0_^.y, -are. called,. ' The ingenuity of '.flie co.ojcs frQ.-n...^ei>era- tipn to genftijatf^'p hav.e been ^^.xed In the preparafioh 'o.f these soups,, which are in great vogue during the Lenten season. But many of them, such as "Cream of Asparagus Soup," "Cream of Celery Sou"p',''',;hg.vf,j jjntered^ into the daily life ,of ,'^|ie q^ty, .and,,' .like tlis famous Cr,eple Gumbos,"are held- as.- dainty .and, 'elegant introductions to, the most distinguished feasts. .The nutritive, valu«,- of the soups without meat cannot be overestimated especially thos^r piade with red or . white beans,, lentils,, corn, and other vegetables,. ., whiose.! -.health-giving properties Vape ..beyorid/ -disput^. TO;. the. poor e.sp?ci^U3r.,th«y :are TeooniT. mended, B0t';^|0iiiliy .oinnthe score of economy, but of health as well. Fast-Day Pfrotli. Bouillon iiiiigre. 6 Fine Carrots.' 6 Large White Onions. G Turuiiis. % Pound of Beans or Dried Split Peas. 1 iSmall Head of Cabbage. 1 ■ Parsnip. 1 Stalk of Celery. 4 Sprigs of I'arsleyi- % Pound of Butter, or 1 Large Tablespoonful ot -.Lard. 3 'Quarts of Watei'." 1 Red Popper Pod, Without the Seed. Salt and;.Pepperrlo Taste. Peel and cut into fine, thin slices the oarrot^j, turnips and parsnips; cut and chop 'iin&.thgt.Qabbage, celery and onions; put.aJl ^'^ ^ saucepan and add one glass. o-f5water,. and a quarter of a pound of: tiutter, using. the butter pr^eyably . to -the lard; add the par- sley, chopped very fine; L.et all boil till the water has evaporated, and 2* then add one pint of red or white beans or split peas, wliich have been soalced overnight; add three quarts of v/ater and the pepper pfid, and; let, all simmer well for three hours. Then if the beans are perfectly tender at this point, drain or press through a colander; return to the fire and add the seasonings. Let all bjil up once and then serve with Crofltons. Stali bread may be utilized in preparing the Croutons. A more nutritious soup than this cannot be prepared. A Summer Fnst-Day Soup. Potagre Maigre d'fitfe. The Hearts of 6 Lettuce Cut in Pieces. 2 Large Onions. 2 Cuc'imbers, Pared and Sliced. 4 Pinta of Young Green Peas. Chopped Parsley. 3 Lumps of Crushed Sugar. V4 Pound of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Chop the vegetables fine and stew all together, except the young peas. After one hour add the young peas. Press tliem through a sigye and p^ tulW" all into the watef' in . which they have been boiled. Add to this the vegetables that have been stewed in the butter and simmer about an hour and a half. A sprig of mint is addeff just before the soup Is taken off the fire. This Is a most excellent and nsuTtstrfss' soup and is reeom- mended to the families of the poor. A Winter Fnat-Day Sonp. Potage Maigre d'Hiver. 1 Quart of Dried Peas. 3 Quarts of Water. 1 Lettuce, Sliced. 1 Head of Celery. 1 Carrot. 2 Turnips. 2 Lar^e Onions. Handful of Spinacli. Sprig Each of Mint, Thyme and Parsley. 1 Baj Leaf. A Tableapoonful of Butter. Stew all the vegetables, except the lettuce, together, after having chopped fine, until thejr"4re perfectly soft. Then- return to tlie fire with the chopped lettuce, bu:t(^ and sugar. Boil quickly about twetfty minutes, and serve with Crofltons. Vegetable Soap Without Meat. Puree de LiSgumes. 1 Sweet Potato. 1 Bunch of Celery Leaves. 1 Turnip. 1 Parenlp. 1 Carrot. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Onions. Sprig of Parsley and Thyme. I Irlah Potato. 2 Tablespoonfula of Tlour. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. S^, Quarts of Cold Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut the vegetables Into dice and boil until thoroughly tender in about three and a halt quarts of water; this will require about two hours. Then press the whole through a seve; add the remaining water and bring to a boil. Then add the butter, rubbed smooth with the flour in a little rich__ cream, or a little of the hot soup. A gill of cream or milk added just before serving increases the flavor. Boil and stir about two or three minutes more and servo. Lenttl Soup. Potage a. Purge de Lsntilles. 1 Pint of Lentils. 2 Quarts of Water. 1 Culm. 1 Small Bunch of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. 1 Pod of Bed Pepper, Without the Seeds. 1 Stalk of Celery, Chopped Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the lentils, and, IE dried, soak them over night. Drain oft the water and put them In a saucepan with the cold water. Allow them to come gradually to a boil. Then set them back on the stove and let them simmer gently for , about ' two hours. Melt the butter in "the saucepan and fry in it the minced onion, celery, par- sley, thyme and bay leaf, and let these brown; then add them to the lentils; boil about an hour longer, and, if particularly tender, press all through a colander. Return to the fire and add the seastnrfngs. l>et them boil up once and serve witli Crofltons. Lentils are used constantly by the poorer class of Creoles, but they onght to be more gen,evaAly used by all classes of people. The above soup is very palatable and most nourish- ing. As an illustration of the nutri- tive value of "legumes," as lentils, beans and peas are generally called, during the Franco-Prussian war the Germans, who learned much from the French as regards food values, sup- plied the German soldiers with a kind of sausage called "Erbswurst;" this was made of peasmeal and len- tils, or the condensed soup mixed with a certain proportion of lard or bacon, onions, etc., and dried so as to be portable. Each sausage was a pound In weight, and one consti- tuted the ration of a soldier. It was easily cooked by boiling in water, or it could be eaten cold. This instance is given in the hope that, through this Cook Book, people mav learn how to cook not only palatably and well, but also how to live, selecting such foods as will give the greatest amount of nutriment in proportion to the quantity consumed. Lentils, peas and beans have been found by scientific experiment to possess a greater nutritive value than all other vegetable foods, since they contain more nitrogen than any of the cereals and are as rich in carbon as wheateii flour. Red Bean Soup. Pur§ a la CondS. 1 Pint of Red Eeims. 2 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Minced Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. Bunch of Parsley. Sprig of Thyme. Salt and Pepper. "Wash the beans and soak them Overnight in lukewarm water. Drain and put them in a saucepan with the cold water. Allow them to come gradually to a boil; then set them back, and let them simmer gently for about two hours. Melt the butter in a saucepan and fry in it the onion, parsley, thyme and bay leaf until brown. Add these to the beans and boil about an hour and a half longer. If the beans are perfectly tender at this point, press the whole through a colander. Return to the fire, and add the seasonings. Let them boil up once and serve with the CroQtons. Some think that the flavor is en- hanced by beating up an egg in the tureen and pouring the boiling soup gradually over it, stirring constantly. This soup should always be served with Crofltons. White Benn Soup. Potage a la Purfie d'Haricots. 1 Pint of White Beans. 2 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Minced Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. Bunch of Parsley. Sprig of Thyme. Salt and Pepper. Wash the beans and soak them overnight in lukewarm water. Drain and put them in a saucepan with the cold water. Allow them to come gradually to a boil; then set them back and let them simmer gently for about two hours. Meli the butter in a saucepan and fry in it the onion, parsley, thyme and bay leaf until brown. Add these to the beans and boil about an hour and a half longer. If the beans are perfectly tender at this point, press the whole through a colander. Return to the Are and add the seasonings. Let them boil up once and then serve with the Crofltons. As in Red Bean Soup, a beaten egg may be added when about to pour into the tureen. First beat up the egg and pour the boiling soup gradually over, stirring all the while. Dried or Spilt Pea Soup, Potage a la Purge de Pois Sees. 1 Pint of Dried or Split Peas. 1 Quart of Boiling Water. 1 Small Bunch of Celery. IBunch of Parsley. 1 Quart of Good Milk or Cream. 2 Onions. Salt and Pepper to Taste. It is always best to soak the peas overnight, after washing them in cold water and rejecting all that float. In the morning drain off the water and cover the peas again with one quart of boiling water, setting them back on the stove and letting them cook slowly until tender. Cut up the on- ion and parsley and celery into fine pieces and add to the boiling peas. When perfectly tender remove from the stove and press through a sieve or colan- der and add the salt and pepper. Then return the soup to the Are and let it boil up once; just before serving add the rich cream or milk, stirring well. The soup should be served with Crofltons or Oyster Crackers. White Bean Soup may be made in exactly the same manner. When not intended for fast days, the addition of a ham bone adds greatly to the flavor. Pur6e of Green Peas. Purge de Pois Verts. 1 Quart of Young Green Peas. Bunch of Parsley. 2 Young Onions. 2 Quarts of Good Milk or Broth. Pepper and Salt. Cut the onions and parsley flne, and boil with the peas until all are quite tender, in boiling water, for about a half hour. Then drain. Rub all through a sieve or colander, and add them to the boiling broth or milk. Do not allow this to boil after adding the peas. Season and serve with dainty Croutons. To keep hot, stand the soup on a "bain- marie," or kettle of boiling water. Sorrel Soup. Potage a. la "Bonne Femme," ou Soupe 3. rOiselle. A Small Bunch of Fresh Sorrel. 3 Quarts of Boiling Water. 1 Cup of Cream or Rich Milk. 1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes. 4 Eggs. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Leaves of Lettuce. 1 Oniou. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. A Pinch of Nutmeg. Pepper and Salt to Taste. Sorrel Soup, or Soupe a I'Oiselle, is a popular Creole soup much prized for its cooling properties. The In- dians gather near Bayou Lacombe the sorrel and^bring it to New Or- leans and sell it in the French Mar- ket. It is also grown in the home garden by many Creoles. The leaves only are used in making soup or purges. Wash the leaves and stem them, the entire length of the leaf. Then chop them flne until you have . a quantity equal to a pint or two tea- cupfuls. Chop the other vegetables and put these and the sorrel into a saucepan with the butter; cover and 26 let them stew gently £or ten minutes; and then add the flour, which has been well mixed with a, little water. Pour gradually, stirring always, into the tl,i-ee quarts of boiling water. Beat the yolks of the eggs and mix with a little cream or milk in a tureen. Rub the rest of the cream of milk smooth with the mashed po- tato and put into the soup; add the seasonings. Prepare toast in the form of dice, rubbing them first "With the raw onion, and pour some of the boiling soup over the eggs in the tureen and mix very carefully. Put in the pieces of toast, and then add the remainder of the soup. Cover and stand five minutes in a warm oven, and serve hot. Potato Soup, Potage Parraentier. 8 Potatoes. 2 Onions, Cut Fine. 1 Cup of Cream or Rich llilk. 1 Pincli of Grated Nutmjeg. 1 TailespoontuI of Butter. Pepper and Salt. After washing and peeling the po- tatoes, put them into a saucepan with the onions and add about two quarts of cold water. Bring to a boil. After allowing to cook abDut forty minutes, if the vegetables are then very tender, mash and pass all through a sieve, and, returning to the Are, add the seasoning and but- ter. Bring to a boil, and add the cream and a beaten egg, serving im- mediately with Crotltons. Carrot Sonp, Potage Crecy. 4 Large Carrots (tbe redder the better). 2 Large Onions, Cut Fine. 1 Quart of New Milk. I Turnip. 1 Teaspoon of Corn Starcli. 2 Sticks of Celery. 1 Bay Leaf. Sprig of Tliyme. Sprig of Parsley. 3 Cloves. 1 Large Teaspoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper and Sugar tn Taste. Wash the vegetables thoroughly, cutting them fine and bailing until tender in three pints of water. Wiie;! very soft, mash them and vress through a sieve. The cnrrots must be mashed very fine. Then return to the fire, and, adding about two ciuarcs of boiling water, cover and simmer gently for a while, adding one tea- spoonful of cornstarch that has been blended well with a little milk. Add the boiling milk and cook for about two minutes more, and serve wiLli Croatons. (See recipe.) Lettuce Soup, Potage de Laitues. 1 Large Head of Lettuce. 1 Spoon of French Vinegar. 1 Egir. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Gill of Cream. 1 Teaspoonful of Flour. Dices of Stale Bread. 1 Pinch of Sugar. 3 Quarts of Broth. Prepare a good broth and cook till it is reduced to three pints; this will serve six persons. Chop the lettuce fine and stew it with a tablespoonful of butter, adding the pinch of sugar and one spoon of French vinegar. Keep stirring constantly, so that it will not burn. Then add the flour (which has been rolled smoothly in butter), the pepper and salt, throw in a dash of Cayenne pepper. Break in the egg and stir thoroughly. Then pour on the broth. Place the dice of bread in the tureen, and add the gill of cream to the soup before pouring over the bread. Okra Sonp. Potage de F6vi. 2 Pints of Olira, or Fifty Counted. G Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Onions Chopped Flue. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Loaf. 3 Quarts of Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed. Wash and stem the okra and then slice it very fine. Chop the toma- toes fine, being careful to preserve the juice. Chop the onions fine and fry -them in the butter. Then add the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley and tomatoes and the pepper pod, and, after letting it stew about five minutes, add the okra, stirring con- stantly almost, as it burns quickly. When well browned, add the juice of the tomatoes. Then add the hot wa- ter, and set on the back of the stove and let it simmer "well for about an hour and a half. Season to taste and serve hot, with Croutons. N. B. — The housekeeper should al- ways remember that okra must be cooked in a porcelain-lined pot, as iron or other metal tends to blacken it. Winter Okra Soup. Potage F6vi d'Hiver. 1 Can of Good New Orleans Olira. 1 Can of Tomatoes. 2 Onions Chopped Fine. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Dozen Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Rice. A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed. Chop the onions fine and fry theni in the butter. Wash the rice well, then stew the onions, tomatoes an,l pepper together in about three quarts of water and one pint of oyster water for about three hours, stirring fre- quently. Ten minutes before serving add the okra and let it come to a boil. Then drop in the oysters. Boil up once and serve. Onion Soup. Potage &, rOgnon. 3 Large Onions. Sliced Very Thin or Chopped. V4 Cup of Flour. 1 Large Spoon of Butter. 1 Quart of Milk. 2 Large Potatoes, Mashed Fine. Dice of Bread or Toast. Salt and Pepper. 27 Pry the onions in the butter, until reddish brown. Then add the flour and stir until browned, gently; do not burn. Put the boiling water In gradually, stirring perfectly smooth, and adding the salt and pepper; mix well and boil one minute. Tlien pour it into the kettle and set back. Be- fore serving, add the milk warmed, and rubbed with mashed potatoes until they are a smooth paste. Sim- mer a few moments. Have the pieces of toast ready in the tureen and pour in the hot soup. A pur€e of onions is made by pressing the ingredients through a sieve and returning to the Are for a few moments. Servo hot. Cream of Onion Soup. Purge d'Ognons. 6 Onions. % Ounce of Batter. 1% Pints of Cream. 2 Ounces of Flour. 2 Pints of Boiling Water. Pepper. Kutmeg. Peel the onions and boil In salted water until very tender; then drain and dry well with a cloth; put them on the fire in a saucepan, with one ounce of butter; add the other in- gredients, except the remaining half ounce of butter. When the soup comes to a boil, press tiirough the sieve, and return to the fire; add the remainder of the butter and serve. This is a very delicately flavored soup for fast days. Cream of Tomato Soap. Potage aux Tomates. 2 Quarts of Pure Tomoto Julco. 1 Gill ot Rice. 3 Onions. 8 Allspice. 4 Cloves. A Sprig ot Thyme. A Pinch ot Sugar to Taste. Pepper and Salt. Stew the Tomatoes for about two hours, and then extract the Juice. Add the other ingredients, and boil for about an hour and a half; then strain. The rice, being creamy, should now make the soup as thick as cream. Serve with CroQtons or Quenelles. (See recipe). In the summertime, when tomatoes are so plentiful in New Orleans, this is not only one of the most delightful but one of the least extravagant cream soups that can be made. Cream of Celery Soup, Potage a. la Cr^me de Celeri. Celery Stalks. 2 Qnarts ot Milk or Cream. 2 Tablespoonfnls of Flour. 1 Pint of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. ^ Small Onion. Salt a.nd Pepper to Taste. Wash the celery and onion and cut into fine pieces. Then place them in a porcelain-lined saucepan and let boil for about a half hour. Take off and mash, and press through a colan- der. Set the milk to boil in a fa- rina boiler, and as it heats well, adii to it the water and celery that have been pressed. Rub smoothly to- gether the, flour and butter, and then stir into the boiling soup, stirring constantly till it thickens to a cream of the right consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve hot. It is very delicious served with slices ■of delicately toasted and buttered Crofltons. Serve on a separate dis!> and garnish with sprigs of parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Cream of Corn Soup. Potage a, la CrSme de Mais. 2 Pints of Grated Corn. i Qnarts ot Boiling Water. 1 Pint of Hot Milk or Cream. 3 Tablespoon tuls ot Butter. 2 Level Tablespoonfuls of Flour. The Yolks of 2 Kggs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Slit the corn in two and grate from the cobs. Put the cobs into tha boiling water and let them boil slow- ly about an hour, till the water is reduced to three quarts. Then take the cobs out and drain over the ket- tle. Add the corn an^a let it boil till ' very soft. This will require about thirty minutes. Take the soup off and press all through a sieve. Sea- son highly and set back to simmer gently, adding, in- the meanwhll?, the flour and butter, thoroughly rubbed together. Stir constantly till the soup thickens, and then add the boiling milk. Cook a moment only, take off the fire, stir in tiie beaten yolks and serve hot. with buttered toast cut in dice shape. Cream of Asparagus Soup, Cr^me d'Asperges. 1 Large Bnncb of Asparagus. 1 Tablespoontjl ot Butter. 1 Qnait ot Milk. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Rich Cream. 2 Eveu Table.'ipoonfuls of Flour or Corn Starch. . Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the Asparagus, tie it in a bunch and put in a saucepan of boil- ing water. Let it boil gently for about three-quarters of an hour, or until perfectly tender. Take it from the water, cut off the tips or points and put them aside until wanted. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Press the Asparagus stalks through a colander, and add them to the milk. Rub the butter and cornstarch or flour together until perfectly smooth, and add to tne boiling milk, stirring constantly .till it thickens. Now add the Asparagus tops, salt and pepper, and serve, without CroOtons, as the Asparagus tips form a beautiful garnish. 28 Cream of Spinach Soup. Potage a. la Creme d'Epinards. Half a Peek or Four Pints of Spinach. 2 Ounces of Fresh Butter. Two Quarts of Oyster Water. 1 Teaspoonfnl of Salt. 1 Teaspoonful of Granulated Sugar. ^y4 of a Grated Nutmeg. Wash and boil one-half peck, or four pints of Spinach; this quantity will measure about one pint when cooked, chopped and pounded into a fine paste. Then put it into a stew pan with four ounces of fresh but- ter, the grated nutmeg and a tea- spoonful of salt. Let it cook for ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add to this two quarts of oyster juice (on other than fast days consommS may be used, or good bouillon). Let all boil up, and then press through a strainer. Set it over the fire again and just at the boiling point ,mix with it a tablespoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful of granulated sug- ar. Serve hot with Croutons. Cream of Bnrley Soup. Purge d'Orge. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Barley, or a Half Cup. 1 Pint of Cream or Milk. TLe Yolks of 2 Eggs 3 Quarts of Water (boiling). Salt and Pepper to Taste. Scald the barley and then put into a kettle with three quarts of boil- ing water and let it boil about three hours. Take it off and mash thor- oughly, and strain through a sieve. Add the hot milk to the stock of the barley, season with salt and pepper, and let it come to a boil. Take off and add the yolks of two eggs. Cream of Rice Soup. . Cr§me de Riz. 1 Cup of Rice. 3 Quarts of Water. 1 Pint of Milk. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Pepper and Salt to Taste. Wash the Rice thoroughly, rubbing dry. Put it into a saucepan with pne quart of cold water; when swelled add one quart of boiling water, and when it begins to get very tender add the remaining quart of boiling water. Then add the pepper and salt. Take from the fire, mash the rice well and rub all through a sieve. Beat up the yolks of the eggs well with a few tablespoonfuls of cream. When quite smooth stir In carefully a few spoons of the boil- ing rice water, and then pour the eggs and cream or milk into the saucepan with the rice, which you will have returned to the stove. Mix briskly and then draw aside and stir for two or three minutes, be- ing very careful not to allow the mixture to boil when once the eggs (ivill have been added. Serve hot with CroOtons or Crackers. On other than fast days this is most delicious made with Chicken ConsommS. Rice Soup, Without Meat. Riz au Maigre. 1 Cup of Rice. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 3 Quarts of Water. 1 Spoon of Butter, 1 Plat of Milk. Pepper and Salt. Wash the rice thffroughly, rubbing dry. Put it in a saucepan with one pint of cold water; when swelled, add one pint of boiling water; and when it begins to get very tender, add the remaining pint of boiling water. Add the pepper and salt. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with a few tablespoonfuls of cream. When quite smooth, stir in carefully a few spoonfuls of the boiling rice water, and then pour the eggs and cream in- to the saucepan, stirring very brisk- ly. Draw aside and stir for two or tliree minutes, but do not allow the soup to boil when once the eggs are added. Coconnut Soup. Potage de Cocoa. 6 or 8 Calves' Feet. ^ Pound of Grated Cocoanut. 1 Gallon of Water. 1 Pint of Ceam or Rich Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour or Arrowroot, 3 Ounces of Fresh Butter. "" Blades of Slace. The Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. Scald the calves' feet, and scrape thoroughly w^ithout skinning; put them into tiie soup kettle with a gal- lon of cold water, and cover the ket- tle well. Let the feet come to a slow boil and skim carefully. Then add the blades of mace and let the soup boil slowly till the meat is reduced to rags and has fallen from the bones. Then strain into a white porcelain dish or pan, and set it away to cool. After it has congealed, scrape oft fat and sediment, and a beautiful jelly will remain. Cut up this cake of Jelly and put it into a thoroughly cleansed, white porcelain soup kettle. In the meantime grate the cocoanut very fine, till about a half pound Is on hand. Mix this with the pint of rich cream or milk, and add the butter which has been rolled smooth- ly in the arrowroot or flour. Mix this carefully and gradually with the calves' feet stock or soup, and sea- son with a grated nutmeg. The soup should then be set back on the Are and allowed to boil slowly for about fifteen minutes, stirring almost con- stantly. Pour into the tureen and serve with French rolls, or milk bis- cuit, made very light and thin. On fast days omit the calves' feet, using another ounce of butter instead. 29 The Creoles often serve powdered white sugar in gmall plates or in salt cellars for those of the company who prefer more sweetening. Cliestnnt Soup. Potage a. la FurSe de Marrons. 3 Quarts of Oyster Water, or A Good Round of Beef or Veal, 1 Quart of Cliestnuts. 1 Ueib Bouquet. Cayenne Feppcr. Make a good broth of the veal or beef; season with the Cayenne pep- per and salt. Follow the rule given for making soups, by allowing a pound of meat to each quart of wa- ter. Skim and boll till the meat falls into rags; then strain and put in a clean porcelain pot. In the mean- time, shell the chestnuts and throw them into boiling water until the skin comes oft easily. Put them into a saucepan with some of the soup wa- ter, and boil about thirty minutes, till quite soft. Press through a col- ander; add butter, pepper and salt. Then add to the soup. Make dump- lings the size of a marble with fresh butter rolled in flour, and add. (See recipe for Dumplings.) Boil the soup about fifteen minutes longer and serve. Some prefer the soup without dumplings, thinking It gives more of the flavor of the chestnuts. On fast days use the oyster water instead of the bee^ broth, following the recipe in all other particulars, and adding a half tablespoonful of butter to the purge before pressing through the colander. CHAPTER VI. THE noUILLI. "Le Bouilli.' Before leaving the subejct of soups it has been thought advisable to de- vote a short chapter to the "Bouilli," or the boiled meat that is usually thrown away by other nationalities than the Creole and French when the "Pot-au-Feu," the "Consommfi" c— the "Bouillon" has been completed. The Creoles long ago discovered or rather brought over , with them from the mother country, France, the delightful possibilities for a good entree that lurked within the generally despised and cast aside Bouilli, and these possibilities they Improved upon in their own unique and palatable styles of cuisine prep- arations. In Prance the "Bouilli" is always served at the home dinner, and so ■with the new France, New Orleans. Far from rejecting the "Bouilli" as unpalatable and unfit for food, the Creoles discovered many delightful ways of serving it, and their theorie.< of the nutrition that still remained in the boiled beef have been sus- tained by medical science. The most eminent scientists have found by ex- periment that while heat coagulates the nutritious substances of the beef, only a small amount is dissolved when the water is heated gradually, and that the "Bouilli" is still valu- able as an article of food. The pleasant ways that the Cre- oles have af preparing it restores its flavor and makes it a delightful accompaniment to even the most aristocratic dinners. For breakfast the boiled beef left over is utilized in various ways. The Picayune has selected from among many the following recipes which need only to be tried to be re- peated often, or perhaps daily, in one form or the other. The recipes for the sauces men- tioned will be found in the chapter especially devoted to "Creole Sauces." Mirontous. The Left-Oyer Bouilli. 3 Large Onions. 6 Shallots, 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Pickles. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. This is a favorite way the Cre- oles have of serving the cold bouilli that has been saved from the preced- ing day: Slice the onions fine; brown in one tablespoonful of butter. Chop the 'shallots and add to the onions, tlien add the garlic, thyme and bay leaf, all chopped very fine, and season witli salt, Cayenne and black pepper to taste. When the whole is browning nicely, add a tablespoonful of flour and water, or left-over broth, suffi- cient to cover. Season this to taste and then take two pickles, about one finger long, slice very fine, and add. Let all boil about fifteen minutes and then lay the cold bouilli, which has been thickly sliced, in the sauce. 30 Set it to bake in tlie oven about t\v"enty minutes. Garnish Willi but- tered toast and serve hot. Boiled Beef Snut£ Ik la Lyonnalse. Bouilli SautS fi. la Lyonnaise. The Boullll. 3 Onions. ] Tablespoonful of Lard. : T.'Jblespoonful of Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of Chili Vinegar. The Peel of One Lemon. Slice the onions and brown them in lard, using about one tablespoon- ful. Skim the lard oft the onions and put the beef in the pan. Stir up and smother. Add the oil, the peel of a lemon, cut fine, and the Cliili vinegar. Serve hot. Boiled Beef H la Bordelnise. Bouilli a. la Bordelaise. The BonilU. H Dozen Shallots. 1 Glass of White Wine. 2 Teaspooufuls of Sauce Espagnoie. Slice the left-over beef. Then hash the shallots into very fine pieces; add a glass of white wine, pepper and salt to taste, and boil to half the quantity over a brisk Are. Then add the mashed beef marrow from the bone and two teaspooufuls of "Sauce Espagnoie" (see recipe), first melt- ing the marrow in a little bouillon. Stir rapidly over the fire, and as soon as it begins to bubble, with- draw it and set it back on the stove, letting it simmer gently for a quar- ter of an hour. Add the sliced beef for about ten minutes and then serve with Crofltons or fried crusts. Boiled Beef Si la Paysaune, Bouilli a, la Paysanne. The Bouilli. 5 Large ^Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of. Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 1 Wineglassful of Claret. A Dash of Mustard and Vinegar. Hash the left-over beef, and then chop five large onions very fine and cook them to a golden brown in but- ter. When nearly done, dust over them a teaspoonful of flnur and moisten with a little red wine. Cook the onions till done and then put in the cold hashed beef, adding a dash of French vinegar and a little mustard and serve. Boiled B»ef a I'Indlenne. Bouilli a. I'Indienne. The Bonilll. 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Saffron. 2 Cayenne Pepper Pods. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Cup of Bouillon. > This is a dinner dish. Crush the pods of two Cayenne peppers and a teaspoonful of powdered saffron and heat and brown in butter. Then moisten with a little bouillon. Boll the sauce down, and when nearly ready to serve, thicken with a little butter. Serve in a gravy dish with the "Bouilli," which has- been nicely and tastefully garnistied with let- tuce leaves on a parsley bed. Boiled Beef WItli Tomatoes. Bouilli aux Tomates. The, Bouilli. % Dozen Tomatoes. 2 Cups of Bouillon. ^i Teaspoonful of Flour. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Take a half dozen fine, ripe toma- toes, and parboil them in butter, be- ing careful not to let them burn. Add a pinch of flour and two good cups of bouillon, a little salt and pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. After two hours, take out the tomatoes and allow the beef to cook a few minutes in the sauce. Then serve on a flat dish, arranging the tomatoes around the beef and under each to- mato put a nice piece of buttered toast. Boiled Beef ft la Bmxelloise. Bouilli a, la Bruxelloise. The Bouilli. 1 Dozen Brussels Sprouts. 4 Tablespooufuls of Butter. 3 Sprigs of Pareley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take- about a dozen Brussels sprouts and blanch them in boiling water. Drain thoroughly and stew in butter with chopped parsley. Af- ter they have cooked ten minutes, take them out of the pah and pirboil them in fresh butter, which has been melted before the stove. Salt and pepper to taste and garnish nicely around the bouilli and serve. Boiled Beef en Pnplllottes. Bouilli en Papillottes. The Boullll. 2 Tablespoonfuls of fintter. 6 Sausages. (Cbaurlce.) 2 Eggs. 1 Cup Bi'ead Crumbs. 4 Sprigs of Paraley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. This is a nice breakfast dish. Take the left-over bouilli cut in slices and parboil slightly in butter. Make a forcemeat or quenelle of pork sau- sage, garlic, parsley and moistened bread crumbs, add two eggs, salt and pepper. Put a layer of this "farci" between each layer of sliced beef, and, then add the bread crumbs, mixed with chopped parsley. Put the beef in oiled paper, folded as tightly as possible, cook a quarter 31 of an hour in the oven and serve in the pappillottes (paper.). Boiled Beef With Carrot Sauce. Bouilli a, la Crfioy. The Boullli. 4 Carrots. 2 Onions. 1 Gill of Cream. 2 Sticks of Celery. 3 Sprigs of I'arsley. 1 Sprig of Tliyme. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to laste. Make a good pur§e of fine, red oar- rots (see recipe), and then strain in butter. Ad'd a gill of rich cream and salt and pepper to the taste. Put the bouilli in the platter and pour thj sauce around it, serving hot just af- ter the soup. Boilcil Beef ^Vltli Lettuce. Bouilli a, la Laitue. The Bouilli. 6 Bead of Lettuce. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 12 Sausages. (Chaurice.) 1% Cups Bread Crumbs. Salt aud Pepper to Taste. Take six fine, firm heads of lettuce, strip off all the green leaves, wash tlioroughly and soak and blanch in toiling water. Then throw them in- to cold water. When very cold squeeze in a towel till they are thor- oughly dry and cut off the stalks from below without injuring the heart. Fill this open place witli forcemeat balls, made Irom the bouilli after the recipe already given in Boiled ' Beef en Papillottes, that is, fry them in lard, with fresh bread crumbs soaked in bouillon and worked into the meat. Chop up with pepper, salt and garlic, and add one or two hard- boiled eggs. Tie the balls up and cook without adding water and fill the heart of the let- tuce. This may be served around tlra- tody of the bouilli and makes a. beau- tiful garnish. Bciled Beet ft la Lronnalse. Bouilli a, la Dyonnaise. The Bouilli. 6 Sausages. (Chaurice.) 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Eggs. Bread Crumbs. ^ The Juice of 1 Lemon. Make sausage meat of the bouilli, adding the pork sausage, garlic, parsley and thyme. Moisten some bread crumbs in water and dissolve over them two eggs, salt and pepper. Chop the whole and tie it tightly in a cabbage leaf. An hour before serv- ing take out the remaining bouilli and the farci or stuffed cabbage leaf. Let them cool and cut the.m into slices and roll these in beaten eggs, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in butter. Throw over them a dash of powdered parsley and squeeze over all the juice of a, lemon. Boiled Beef Wltli Egg Toast. Bouilli au "Pain Perdu." 6 Slices of Bouim. 6 Slices of Stale Bread. 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Parsley and Lettuce Leaves to Garnish. Take left-over or stale bread, slice it thickly and dip in cream or milk. Then dip it in the beaten whites and yolks of egg and fry in butter. Cut the bouilli into slices to match the bread, dip it in the egg and fry also.. Serve on a dish with chopped parsley dashed over it and a garnish of pars- ley or lettuce leaves. Boiled Beef Saut£ With Onions. Bouilli Satite aux Ognons. The Bouilli. 3 Large Oulons. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1. Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Take three fine onions and parboil them in butter over a slow fire. When a rich, creamy brown, add clove gar- lic and Cayenne pepper. Cut the bouillon in thin slices and add, shak- ing the pan until browned. Place in tlie platter and serve with chopped parsley dusted over, and the juice oi" a lemon squeezed over it. Boiled Beef fi la Marscllaise. Bouilli a. la Marsellaise. The Bouilli. ] Dozen Small Onions. % Cup Claret. % Cup Meat Gravy. Vi Can of Mushrooms. 1 Herb Bouquet. % of a Grated Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Slice the bouilli into thin, fine slices. Take a dozen onions, the smallest kind, and dust over with sugar, and bake in the oveh. When a good color, put a little of the bouil- lon in the stewing pan and boil down one half. Moisten with a cup of red wine and thick meat sauce, allowing half and half in proportion. Then add the beet, the mushrooms, the bouquet garni, salt, pepper and ' a little nutmeg, and serve very hot. Boiled Beef Sausage. Saucisse de Bouilli. The Bouilli. 1 Pound of Pork. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Clove of Garlic. 6 Allspice. 3 Truffles. A Dash of Cayenne. 1 Wineglass of Madeira. V> Cup of Bouillon. Take the bouilli of the day be- ■fore, mince and add chopped pars- ley, a few spices, salt and Cayenne pepper, and a little beef extract saved from the bouillon. Take a pound of pork and add, mixing thoroughly. When the whole is well 32 mixed, add a few truffles and a little Madeira. Fill some entrails that have been thoroughly cleansed with this meat and shape the sausage as one desires. Boil in butter and serve alone. This makes an excel. ent breakfast dish. Beef Croqaettcs. Croquettes de Boeuf. The Bouilli. 1 Pound , ot Poik or Sausage Meat. 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Onions. Whites ot 3 Eggs. 3 Sprigs ot Parsley. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. Salt and 'Pepper. Mince the beef with sausage meat and add garlic, parsley, pepper, salt and onions, and bread crumbs soalced in water. Add the whites ot two eggs beaten to a froth. Make into balls ana roll in the beaten white of an egg, and fry, being careful not to cook too rapidly. When sufficient- ly browned, pile in a pyramid shape on a dish, garnish with parsley sprigs and serve. Boiled Beef Gros Sel. Bouilli Gros Sel. The Bouilli. 1 Bunch of Parsley. 1 Head of Lettuce. A Freuch Dressing. This is the simplest way of serv ing the bouilli, and the one most used by the Creoles as a daily dish. Take the bouilli from the bouillon, and serve on a platter, laying the whole on a bed of parsley and let- tuce.' Serve with salt or French dressing. A Good Every-Day Hnsh, Hachis. 1 Quart of Chopped Soup Meat. 1 Onion. 2 Potatoes. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Taljlespoonful of Butter. % Pint ot Water. Salt and Pepper to . Taste, A Dash of Cayenne. Chop the left-over bouilli fine in dice shapes, and to every quart of the meat allow one onion, a table- spoonfill of butter, two hard-boiled eggs, two cold (left-over) potatoes, a half pint of water, and salt and pep- per to taste. Chop the potatoes, onions and eggs fine and put them into the stewing pan with the meat, adding by degrees the butter, salt and pepper with a little dash of Ca- yenne. Stew very slowly for about fifteen or twenty minutes and serve hot. CHAPTER VII. CREOLE GUMBO. Gombo a, la CrSole. Gumbo, of all other products of the New Orleans cuisine, represents a most distinctive type of the evolu- tion of good cookery under the hands of the famous Creole cuisinigres of old New Orleans. Indeed, the word "evolution" fails to apply when speaking of Gumbo, for it is an orig- inal conception, a something sui- generis in cooking, peculiar to this ancient Creole city alone, and to the manor born. With equal ability the olden Creole cooks saw the possibilities of exquisite and deli- cious combinations, in making Gumbu and hence we have many varieties, till the occult science of making a good "Gombo a, la Creole" seems to the Picayune too fine an inheritance of gastronomic lore to remain for- ever hidden away in the cuisines of this . oid Southern metropolis. The following recipes, gathered with care from the best Creole housekeepers of New Orleans, have been handed down from generation to generation by the old negro cooks, and preserved In all their delightful combinations by their white Creole mistresses They need only to be tried to prove thier perfect claim to the admiration of the many distinguished visitors and epicures who have paid trib- ute to our Creole Gumbo: Gumbo File. Gombo File. First, It will be necessary to ex- plain here, for the benefit of many,, that "Fil6" is a powder manufactured, by the remaining tribe of Choctaw Indians in Louisiana, from the young ond tender leaves of the sassafras. The Indian squaws gather the leaves- and spread them out on a stone mor- tar to dry. When thoroughly dried,, they pound them into a fine powder,, pass them through a hair sieve, and. then bring the FllS to New Orleans to sell, coming twice a week to the- French Market, from the old reser- vation set aside for their home oa Bayou Lacombe, near Mandeville,. La. The Indians used sassafras; leaves and the sassafras for many 33 medicinal purposes, and still sell bunches of the dried roots in the French Market. The Creoles, quick to discover and apply, found the pos- sibilities of the powdered sassafras, or "File," and originated the well- known dish, "Gumbo File." To make a good "Gumbo Fil§," use the following ingredients: 1 Large Tender Chicken. 2 Large Slices or Vi Pound Lean Ham. 2 Tablespooufuls o£ Butter or 1 ' o£ Lard. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs o£ Parsley. " 3 Dozen Oysters. I Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Tliyme. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water. 2 Quarts of Boiling Water. 1 Half Pod of Red Peppei-, Without the Seeds. Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Clean and out up the chicken as for a fricassee. Dredge with salt and black pepper, judging according to taste. Cut the ham into dice shapes and chop the onion, parsley and thyme very fine. Put the lard or butter into the soup kettle or deep stewing pot, and when hot, put in the ham and chicken. Cover closely and fry for about five or ten minutes. Then add the onion and parsley 'and thyme, stirring occasionally to pre- vent burning. When nicely browned add the boiling water and throw in the oyster stock, which has been thoroughly heated. Add the bay leaf chopped very fine, and the pepper pod, cut in two, and set the gumbo back to simmer for about an hour longer. When nearly ready to serve dinner, and while the Gumbo is boil- ing, add the fresh oysters. Let the gumbo remain on the stove for about three minutes longer, and then remove the pot from the fire. Have ready the tureens, set in a "bain- marie" Or hot water bath, for once the File is added the gumbo must never be warmed over. Take two tablespoonfuls of the File and drop gradually into the pot of boiling hot Gumbo, stirring slowly to mix thor- oughly; pour into the tureen, or tur- eens, if there should be a second de- mand and serve with boiled rice. (See recipe.) The rice, it should be re- marked, must be boiled so that the grains stand quite apart, and brought to the table in a separate dish, cov- ered. Serve about two spoonfuls of rice to one plate of gumbo. The above recipe is for a family of six. Increased quantities in pro- portion as required. Never boil the gumbo Tvith the rice, and never add the File while the gumbo is on the fire, as boiling after the file Is added tends to make the gumbo stringy and unfit for use, else the File is preci- pitated to the bottom of the pot, which is equally to be avoided. Where families cannot afford a fcwl, a good gumbo may be made by substituting the round ,of the beef for the chicken. Turkey Gumbo. Gombo de Dinde. The Remains of a Turkey. % Pound of Lean Ham. 2 Tablespoons of Butter or 1 ol Lard. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water. % Pod o£ Red Pepper, Without the Seeds. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Nothing is ever lost in a well-regu- lated Creole kitchen. When turkey is served one day, the remains or "left-over" are saved and made into that most excellent dish — a Turkey Gumbo. It is made in the same man- ner as Chicken Gumbo, only instead of the chicken, the turkey meat, black and white, that is left over, is stripped from the bones and car- cass. Chop fine and add to the hot lard, and then put in the ham, cut fine into dice shapes. Proceed exact- ly as in the recipe above, only after adding the boiling water, throw in the bones and carcass of the turkey. At the proper time remove the car- cass and bones, add the oysters, and then remove the pot and "File" the gumbo. Serve with boiled rice. Turkey Gumbo, when made from the remains of wild turkey, has a deli- cious flavor. Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo. Gombo d'Bcureil ou de Lapin. These are famous Creole Gumbos. The following ingredients are used: 1 Fine Squirrel or Rabbit. 2 Slices or 14 Pound of Lean Ham. 3 Sprigs ol Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Large Onion. 3 Dozen Oysters. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water. % Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seed. A 'Dash of Cayenne. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Skin, clean and out up the squirrel or rabbit, as for a fricasse. Dredge well with salt and black pepper. Cut the ham into dice shapes, and chop the onion, parsley and thyme very fine. Put the lard or butter into a deep stew pot and, when hot, put in the squirrel or rabbit. Cover closely and fry for about eight or ten min- utes. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Chicken Gumbo; add the "file" at the time indicated, and serve with boiled Louisiana rice. (See recipe.) 34 Otera Gumbo, Gombo F4vi, 1 Chicken. 1 Onion. 6 Large Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted. V2 Pod ot Red PeppCT, Without the Seeds. 2 Large Siices ot Ham. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme or Parsley. 1 Tablespooufal ot Lard or Two Level Spoons of Butter. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Clean and cut up the chicken. Cut the ham into small squares or dice and chop the onions, parsley and thyme. Skin the tomatoes, and chop ilne, saving the juice. Wash and stem the okras and slice into thin layers of one-half inch each. Put the lard or butter into the soup kettle, and ■n-hen hot add the chicken and the ham. Cover closely and let it sim- mer for about ten minutes. Then add the chopped onions, parsley, thyme and tomatoes, stirring fre- quently to prevent scorching. Then add the okras, and, when well- browned, add the juice of the toma- tces, which imparts a superior flavor. Ihe okra is very delicate and is li- able to scorch quickly if not stirred frequently. For this reason many Creole cooks fry the okra separately in a frying pan, seasoning with the pepper, Cayenne and salt, and then add to the chicken. But equally good results .may be obtained with less trouble by simply adding the okra to the frying chicken, and watching constantly to prevent scorching. The least taste ot a "scorch" spoils the flavor of the gumbo. When well fried and browned, add the boiling water (about three quarts) and set on the back of the stove, letting it simmer gently for about an hour longer. Serve hot, with nicely boiled rice. The remains of tur- key may be utilized in the gumbo, instead of using chicken. In families where it is not possible to procure a fowl, use a round steak of beef or veal, instead of the chick- en, and chop flne. But it must al- ways be borne in mind that the Chicken Gumbo has the best flavor. Much, however, depends upon the seasoning, which is always high, and thus cooked, the Meat Gumbo makes a most nutritious and excellent dish. Crab Guiubo. Gombo aux Crabes. 1 Dozen Hard-Shell or Soft-Shell Crabs. 1 Onion. 6 Large Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Pints ot Okra, or Fifty Counted. % Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seeds. 1 Bay I«af. 1 Sprig ot Thyme or Parsley. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level Spoons of Butter. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. This is a great fast-day or "mai- gxe" dish with the Creoles. Hard or soft-shelled crabs may be used, though more frequently the former, as they are always procurable and far cheaper than the latter article, which is considered a luxury. Crabs are always sold alive. Scald the hard-shell crabs and clean according to recipe already given, "taking oft the dead man's lingers" and the spongy substances, and being care- ful to see that the sandbags on" the under part are removed. Then cut off the claws, crack and cut the body ot the crab in quarters. Sea- son nicely with salt and pepper. Put the lard into the pot, and when hot throw in the bodies and claws. Cover closely, and, after flve or ten minutes add the skinned tomatoes, chopped onions, thyme and parsley, stirring occassionally to prevent scorching. After flve minutes add the okras, sliced fine, and when well-browned, without the semblance of scorching, add the bay leaf, chopped fine, and the juice of the tomatoes. Pour over about two quarts and a half of boiling water, and set back on the stove and let it simmer well for about an hour, having thrown in the pepper pod. When nearly ready to serve, season according to taste with Cayenne and added salt; pour into a tureen and serve with boiled rice. This quantity will allow two soft- shell crabs or two bodies of hard- shelled crabs to eacn person. The soft-shell crab is simply the hard- shelled crab that has shed its shell. In three or four days the shell be- gins to harden again, hence the supply is never as generous as the hard-shelled crabs, which are al-- ways to be found in the New Orleans markets. Oyster Gumbo. Gombo aux Huitres. i Dozen Oysters. 2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 1 Tablespoouful of Lard or Butter. 1 Quart of Hot Water. 2 Tablespooufuls of Flour. 1 Large White Onion. Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the lard into a kettle, , and when hot add the flour, making a brown roux. When quite brown without burning, add the chopped onions and parsley. Fry these, and when brown, add the chopped bay ■ leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor and then add the hot water. When it comes to a good boil, just before serving, add the oysters which have been well drained, without pouring water over them, however. Cook for about three minutes longer and take off the stove and stir gradually 35 two tablespoonfuls of FilS into the boiling hot gumbo. Have the tureen ready in a "bain-marie," or hot- water bath, and pour in the gumbo and cover. Bring to tae table im- mediately and serve with boiled rice, allowing about six or eight oysters to each person. Shrimp Gumbo. Gombo aux Chevrettes. j_ake Shrimps are always used in making this gumbo, the river shrimp being too small and delicate. Pur- chase always about 100 shrimps, or a small basketfull, for there are al- ways smaller shrimps in the pile which, when co6ked, amount to little or nothing. In making Shrimp Gum- bo, either "Fil§ or Okra may be used in the combination, but it must be borne in mind that, while the "Fil6" is frequently used, shrimp are far more delicious for- gumbo purposes when used wiih okra. The shrimp should always be scalded or boiled before putting in the gumbo. (See recipe for "Boiling Shrimp.") Shrimp Gumbo File. Gbmbo Fil6 aux Chevrettes. 50 Fine Lake Sbrimp. 2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 1 Quart of Hot Water. 1 Large Wliite Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of rarsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. A Dash of Cayenne. Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Scald and shell the shrimp, sea- .soning highly with the boiling wa- ter. Put the lard into a kettle, and, when hot, add the flour, making a brown roux. When quite brown, without a semblance of burning, add the chopped onion and the parsley. Fry these, and when brown, add the chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor and the hot water, or use the carefully strained liquor in which the shrimp have been boiled. When it comes to a good boll, and about five minutes before serving, add the shrimp to the gumbo and take off the stove. Then add to the boiling hot liquid about two table- spoonfuls of the "File," thickening according to taste. Season again with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately, with boiled rice, (bee recipe, "Boiled Bice.") Green or Herb Gumbo. Gombo aux Herbes. A Veal Brisket. 1 Large Slice of Lean Ham. Equal Parts of the Leaves of Young Cabbage, Radish, Turnips, Mustard, Spinach, Watercress. Parsley and Green Onions. 1 Large Red or White Onion. % Red Pepper Pod. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprlflr of Sweet Marloram. 1 Clove. 9 Allspice. Cayenne to Taste. Soak and wash the leaves thor- oughly, being careful to wash each leaf separately, to be sure there lurk no insects in the folds or ridges. Then trim by taking off all the coarse midrib of the leaves, which will make the gumbo taste coarse and unpalatable. Boil the leaves to- gether for about two hours and' then parboil by adding a teaspoonful of cooking soda. Strain and chop very fine, being careful to save the wa- ter in which they were boiled.. Cut the brisket of veal and the sliced ham into small pieces and dredge with black pepper and salt, and chop one large white or red onion. Put a heaping teaspoonful of lard into a deep frying pan, and, when hot, add the chopped veal and the ham. Cover and let it simmer for about ten minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Then add the chopped onion and a little sprig of parsley chopped fine. When it comes to a rich brown, add the greens, and when these are browned, pour over four quarts of the water in which the leaves have been boiled. Throw in the finely chopped bay leaf, thyme, sweet marjoram, and the red pepper pod and the clove and allspice, mashed fine. Set it back on the stove and let it boil for about one hour longer, adding the Cayenne or "hot pepper," and you will have a regular Creole gumbo peculiar to New Orleans alone. Serve with boiled rice. Cnbbngre Grambo, Gombo Choux. 1 Large Head of Cabbage (green and white mixed.) nt 1 Round Steak. 2 Large Slices of Lean Ham. 2 Pounds of Creole Sausage. (About ^ to Pound.) 1 Pod of Cayenne Pepper, Without the Seeds. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. Salt and Black Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Gombo Choux, or Cabuage Gumbo, is a favorite Creole dish, especially in families where there are children, possessing, as it does, nutritive qual- ities in tbe highest degree, and be- ing besides a most palatable and sa- vory way of preparing cabbage. Shred the cabbage and wash each leaf separately and thoroughly to avoid insects. Then chop the entire head very fine, into pieces about half the size of dice. Cut the steak or brisket into small squares, also the ham, and fry in the deepest kettle you have, putting the meat' into the pot when the lard is very hot. When it begins to brown, add a chopped onion and the sausage, and then add the chopped cabbage, stirring and pouring in enough water to prevent it from burning.- Throw in the red pepper pod and a dash of Cayenne, 36 and salt to taste. Add a little black pepper. Stir often and allow the ingredients to cook well, gradually- adding, if necessary, a little water, and stirring frequently to prevent burning. When thoroughly cooked, make a cream sauce as follows: Take one pint of new milk and two tablespoonfuls of flour and mix thor- oughly, so as not to be lumpy. Stir this into the gumbo while boiling, and continue stirring for five min- utes. Serve with boiled rice. If it is not possible to procure milk, al- most the same effect may be attained by mixing the flour in cold water of the same measurement and stir- ring in as already given. The gum- bo must not be allowed to stand on the fire after the flour has been boiled on it for five minutes, at it ■will burn. Should the recipe prove above the purses of the poor, eitner the sau- sage or the round of beef may bo omitted. With the ingredients given in this recipe, it should not cost more than the following: Head of cab- bage, 5 cents; ham, 5 cents; steak 10 cents; sausage, 10 cents; milk, 5 cents. It may be varied to suit the purses of the rich or poor, and is always a nutritious dish and quite a dinner in itself. CHAPTER VIII. PISH. Du Poisson. The Fish Market of New Orleans is famous over the world. No stranger comes to the city without visiting this notable spot, and never thinks of leaving New Orleans with- out partaking of a "Pish Breakfast," or "Pish Dinner," at one of the Lake resorts. The perfection and variety of the fish found in the New Orleans mar- ket are unsurpassed. We have here all the fish found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico contiguous to New Orleans, the Mississippi Sound and our own lake shores. These constitute the famous salt-water va- rieties, such as the Sheepshead, con- sidered by many the best fish in the Gulf; the famous Pompano and Span- ish Mackerel, the dainty Croaker, the toothsome Plounder, the Blue- fish, the Silver Trout, Tenderloin Trout, Speckled Trout, the Grouper, and the Mullet, the latter, however, being seldom eaten, owiijg to the softeness of its flesh, the number o£ its bones and the continued presence of the other and finer fish whic.i are to be had tor the fishing. Among shell fish we have the Hard-Shell Crab, the Soft-Shell Crab, consid- ered a great luxury in other parts, but always to be found in the New Orleans market; the appetizing Lake Shrimps; that delicious bivalve, the Oyster; the Crawfish, and the famous Green Turtle, so highly prized as a dainty morsel. Again, in the rivers and bayous and small streams of Louisiana we have many delightful varieties of fresh-water fish, such as fresh-water or Green Trout, the Saca- lait and a coarse fish called the Buf- falo. The River Shrimp of Louisiana ■are unique in the United States. They are of a far more delicate va- riety than the Lake Shrimp and muc.i prized as an article of ■ food. Both Lake and River Shrimp are abun- dant in the summer time and are used alike by rich and poor. In the following recipes the njost delightful methods of preparing thesa fish are given, methods which may be used by all according to the purse, the conditions of the poorest having been considered as well as the wants of the wealthy. All are equally rec- ommended, being the most perfect preparations of their kind in use among t.ie Creole housekeepers. It might be added here, for the benefit of any Northern housekeepers into whose hands this book may fall, that many of the recipes may be modified according to good judgment in preparing the fish found exclus- ively in the Northern markets. For instance, in making the famous "Courtbouillon," which is in all res- pects a distinctive Creole conception, any firm fish, such as the Bass, may be used, though, of course, the fiavor of the delicious Red Snapper or Red Fish used by the Creoles to the ex- clusion of all other fish in mak- ing a "Courtbouillon," will be found wanting. With modifications that ■will suggest themselves to any intel- ligent housekeeper, they may be used the world over in preparing fish of other varieties than those which are the delight and pride of the New Or- leans Pish Market. How to Tell Good Fisll. Unless perfectly fresh, fish is unfit for use. Care should be taken to see 37 that the gills are bright and red, the scales shining, the eyes clear and the flesh very firm and free from any un- pleasant odor. In the New Orleans Fish Market the vendors generally clean and scale the fish, it requested to do so; but this cleaning and scal- ing is not to be entirely depended upon, because it is rarely thorough, only the heavier scales and entrails being removed. On coming home from the market, the fish should be immediately rescaled and thoroughly cleansed and washed without soak- ing, in water; it is far better to let the water run over the fish, for thus the smallest particle of blood is re- moved. This is very important in order to have a good, wholesome, sav- ory dish. Then sprinkle the fish on the inside with salt, and set in the ice box. If this is wanting, put It in a very cool place, but it is always best for it to remain on ice until ready to use, especially during the summer. The small vendors in the New Orleans private markets fre- quently oblige their poor customers by placing the fish in their ice boxes until the time for preparation, when it is sent for and is found cold and firm and ready for cooking. Methods of Cooking Fish, Fish may be boiled, broiled, stewed, fried or baked. Visitors to New Orleans declare that nowhere is fish cooked in such palatable ways as in this old Franco- Spanish city. The experience of generations of fine old cooks has been . brought to bear upon the preparation of the fish found in the Louisiana wa- ters and those of the Mexican Gulf, with the result that a Creole code of rules for the cooking of even the smallest and less important flsh pre- vails, and it is considered little short of barbarous to depart from it. The Creole methods of boiling and baking flsh are the perfection of "cul- inary art and unlike any method in vogue elsewhere. Special recipes are, therefore, giv- en for the boiling and baking of Sheepshead, Redfish, Red Snapper, as, also, for making the world-famous Creole "Courtbouillon" and "Bouilla- baise." These ruies should be strict- ly observed in cooking these flsh if one would bring out the best flavor of each. But there are other flsh, such as Green Trout and Perch, which, when simply boiled and served with appropriate sauces, are known to reserve their best flavor for this species of cooking. The following general rules for boiling, broiling, baking, stewing and frying fish should be carefully followed wherever indicated in the recipes. BOTLBD FISH. Poisson Bouilli. General Rule for Balling Flsh. --lean and wash the flsh thoroughly. Make a small letter "S" with knife on the back; pass twine around the body of the flsh so as to secure U. Never wrap or tie in a cloth. Have ready a kettle of boiling water and throw in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay leaf, eight or ten cloves, about two dozen allspice, all mashed fine; a bit of lemon peel and a red pepper pod. When the water has boiled long enough to have extracted the flavor of these ingredients, drop the fish in carefully, so as to avoid ■breaking. Let it boil about ten minutes and then take out care- fully. Put into a strainer and drain quickly. Place on a bed of parsley with garnishes of lemon and serve either a Mayonnaise or Genoise Sauce or Sauce Hollandaise. (See recipes.) ' _ The Creoles add a clove of garlic to the boiling water, but this is ac- cording to taste. BROILFD FISH. Poisson Grills. General Rules for Broiling Flsh. Always use the double broiler, made of wire, as this allows the coDk to turn the fish from side to side without disturbing the body during the process of broiling, and possibly breaking the flesh. Clean the flsh, without cutting off the head and tail. "When the flsh is large, split down the back; else broil whole. Al- ways serve broiled flsh whole. Have a clear moderate fire. Expose flrst the flesh side to the fire, and then the skin, as the latter browns it is liable to burn quickly. Great care must, therefore, be taken not to burn the skin side. Before placing on the broiler, rub the flsh well with salt and pepper, mixed in a little sweet oil or a little butter oil or butter. If the flsh is small, broil on a quick, clear flre; It large, as mentioned above, the flre must be moderate, or the outside of the fish will be charred before the inside is done. When the fish is done through and through, -which can quickly be determined by the fish parting easily from the bone, remove the gridiron from the flre, and loos- en the flns from the broiler with a knife, being careful not to break the flesh. Then place the hot dish over the fish, and, with a dex- terous movement, turn the two back again, thus separating the gridiron from the flsh and placing the latter in the dish. Butter well, season with a little pepper and salt, if deemed necessary, and pour over a table- 38 spoonful of chopped parsley and lem- on juice. Serve with garnishes of sliced lemon and parsley, or gar- nishes of delicate green lettuce leaves. Broiling is one of the nicest ways of cooking certain kinds of fish, and cannot be too highly recommended. BAKISO PISH. Poisson au Gratin. General Rule for Baking Fisb, Clean the Fish, cutting -off the fins. Make the letter "S" on the sides. Rub well inside and out with pepper and salt. Butter a stewpan and put in one large chopped onion and a wineglassful of white wine. Place the fish in the pan, put in the oven and let it bake about twenty minutes, having been careful to place lumps of butter over it and basting frequently. When done carefully, lift the fish out of the pan and put it into the dish in which it is to be served. Take the gravy in which the fish has been cooked and add about a cup of oyster water, the juice of one lemon, two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, thyme and sweet marjoram, ten allspice, one clove of garlic, a little Cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly over the stove, adding a little but- ter if the gravy adheres too much to the pan. Pour over the fish, and garnish with whole mushrooms and slices of lemon laid alternately upon Crofltons or dried toast, out diamond shape. STEWED FISH. Poisson en Matelote. General Rule for Steering Fish, Clean the fish well and slice and pour over one cup of good, boiling vinegar. Make a roux by putting one tablespoonful of lard into the stewpan, and when hot add gradually two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smoothly. When quite brown, take the fish, which has been previously rubbed with salt and pepper, and place in the pot. Let it simmer gently a few minutes, and then add a large chopped onion, parsley, one clove of garlic, one sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, two' blades of mace and eight or ten allspice. Let these brown and cover with water sufl5- cient to prevent burning. Put the fish on a slow fire to stew, and when half done, add a little Cayenne, and, if possible, add a pint or glass of Port Wine. When done, place the fish in a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with CroQtons, with alternate slices of lemon and pre- pared horseradish. FRIED FISH. Poissons Frits. General Rule for Frying Flata. Certain of the fish of the Mexican Gulf are always best when fried.' Of these are the toothsome Croakers, the delicate Sacalait and Patassas, and also the Speckled Trout when served in tenderloin steaks. There is an art in knowing how to fry fish properly. Perhaps there is no other method of cooking fish which is more commonly used, and no other which is more generally abused. There are few people who really know how to fry fish properly. The following general rule will" give Tlie Secret of Good Frying. The secret of good frying lies in having the lard heated Just to -the proper point. If the fish is placed in the boiling lard, it is liable to burn quickly without being cooked through and through. If placed sim- ply in the well-heated lard, it ab- sorbs the fat and is delicate and ten- der and there is no tax upon the di- ■gestive organs. Always have suffi- cient lard in the pan to fry all the fish that is on hand and never add a lump of cold lard to the heated substance. This checks the cooking of the fish and spoils the taste. It the lard spits and crackles, that is no evidence of boiling. It only means that the lard is throwing off drops of moisture that have crept in. Boiling lard is perfectly still until it begins to smoke, and then it is in 'danger of burning and must be re- moved from the fire. To test the lard, drop in a piece of bread. If it begins to color, the lard Is ready for frying. When the fish is fried, skim it out, draining off all the fat. But- ter is never used in frying fish, as It burns quickly. A Short Resume of the Way In Whlcli the Fish of the Nevr Orleans Markets Sliould Always Be Cooked. Sheepshead may be boiled, broiled or baked, and is good with any sauce. Redflsh is principally used in mak/- ing "Courtbouillon," or it is boiled and served with an Hollandaise Sauce, or baked. Red Snapper should always be boiled or baked. It is delightful served a. la Chambord, but it is best a. la Creole. Grouper is served in the same way as Red Snapper. Flounder should always be baked a. la Nouvelle Orleans, or &. la Nor- mande, or with a white wine sauce as in Baked Sheepshead or in the famous recipe "Sole a la Orly." (See recipe.) 39 Pompano should always be broiled and served with Sauce a. la Maitre a'Hotel. Spanish Mackerel should always be broiled in the same manner as Pom- pano, and served with Sauce a, la Maitre d'Hotel. Bluefish should be cooked and served in the same manner as Pom- pano and Spanish Mackerel. Speckled Trout is generally broiled and served in tenderloin, or a Ten- derloin Trout, with Sauce a, la Tar- tare. Green Trout and Perch should be broiled and served with a Sauce a. la Maitre d'Hotel, or else boiled and served with a Sauce Genoise, or an HoUandaise or Drawn Butter Sauce. Croakers are fried and served with garnish of parsley or lemon. Patassas, Sacalait and other small fish are served in the same manner as Croakers. Soft-shell crabs may be fried in the same manner as Croakers, or broiled and served on toast. Shrimp are generally boiled, with plenty of seasoning. The River Shrimp are always served as boiled, shells and all, but the Lake Shrimp enter into many combinations in cooking. Hard-shelled Crabs may be stuffed, stewed, fried and made into gumbo. All left-over, broiled, baked or boiled Jish should be utilized in mak- ing salads, croquettes, etc. Oysters are served in almost every conceivable way, and enter into the most delightful combinations in cooking. A fish weighing three pounds, or small fish in quantity sufficient to make three pounds (uncooked), will serve six persons. THE SHEEPSHEAD. Casburgot. Of all the fish found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, the Sheeps- head is perhaps the most to be com- mended for frequent household use, being susceptible of a far greater variety of modes of preparation than any other fish; the flesh being of a less richer fiber than the Redfish, Red Snapper, Pompano and Spanish Mackerel, it may be used from day to day without injury to the stom- ach. It is good in almost any form and may be boiled, baked or broiled, and served with almost any sauce. Boiled Sliccpsliend. Casburgot Bouilli. A 3-Poun(l Sheepshead. 1 Sliced Onion. 3 Bay Learos. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Spilg of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful French Vinegar. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Cream Saure. Wash and thoroughly clean the fish, and then lay on a pan and open the fiesh on either side by making the letter "S" with the knife. This is done to prevent the fish from puf- fing out Or drawing up, and to insure thorough cooking and a perfect shape afterwards. Then tie the flsh well with cord or twine, wrapping it around the body. Never encase a boiled flsh in a cloth; put the fish in a deep saucepan and add boiling wa- ter sufficient for the fisli to swim in it. Throw in a tablespoonful of spice (well mashed), a sliced onion, three bay leaves, a sprig of parsley (all chopped very fine), a tablespoon- ful of French vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover well and let it boil for ten minutes. After ten minutes, the flsh is cooked. Prepare a "Cream Sauce" (see reaipe) and serve immediately. ' ^, ^ Sheepshead il la Creole^ Casburgot a la Crfiole. A 3- Pound Sheepshcnd. 2 Onions. 1 Bunch of Parsley. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 4 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Quart of Boiled Cream. Ynllts of 4 Eggs. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Bread Crumbs. Prepare the Sheepshead as for boil- ing (see recipe Boiled Sheepshead). "When quite done, take out of the water and flake off all the flesh from the bones. Have ready a quarter of boiled cream or milk. Beat the yolks of four eggs and mix with the cream. Chop one large onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig each of thyme and bay leaf, and add to the cream and eggs. Let it boil up once, and while boiling, throw in three tablespoon- fuls of fiour, rubbed perfectly smooth, in a little cream, and about two ta- blespoonfuls of butter. Remove from the flre. Have ready a deep dish, well buttered, and put in a layer of fish and then a layer of the sauce, until the dish is full. Sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Place in the oven and bake about a half hour, or until brown. This is a very delight- ful method of preparing Sheepshead. Baked Sheep.shen(1. Casburgot au Gratin. A 3-Pound Sheepshead. 1 Large Onion. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. % Bottle of White Wiae. 6 Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Dozen Lake Shrimp.' 1 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms. 2 Crackers. Dry Toast Cut -in Dice Shape. 3 Sprii's Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Clean and wash the fish; place on a platter; chop one large onion fine, rub the fish first with salt and black pepper, and then take a large and 40 deep kitchen pan, place within a tablespoonful of butter, the chopped onion, bay leaf and thyme. Place the flsh on top of this and pour over a half bottle of white wine. Cover with another close pan and put the whole on top of the oven (not on the inside). Bake from the bottom. When it begins to boil from below, turn the flsh over carefully without breaking-, and let it bake on the other side. Take a saucepan and put with- ,in a tablespoonful of butter and mix thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it brown without burning, and then add six fresh to- matoes, skinned and chopped fine, or a half can. Add two dozen Lake Shrimp that have been cleaned well and scalded, a half can of mush- rooms ,- saU and pepper to taste. Let all cook for about five minutes and tlien water with the gravy in which the fish is cooking. Mix well and cover the flsh with it. Parboil one dozen oysters, and when the fish is cooked, set it in the dish in which it is to be served and place the oysters all around it on small slices of dry toast. Cover the flsh alternately with the shrimp and oysters, as a garnish over and around it. Mash two crackers into crumbs and sprinkle over, and place alternately small bits of butter on top of the flsh. Place the dish In the oven and bake the flsh with a quick flre until brown, and serve immediately. This preparation is an exclusive conception of our Creole cuisini&res and cannot be too highly recom- mended. Baked Sheepsbead & la Creole. Casburgot a, la Creole au Gratin. A 3-Pound Sbeepsbead. 1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Cbopped Parsley. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 1 Tablespoonful ofLard. 1 Pint of White Wine or Boiling Water. Salt and Pepper and Flonr to Dredge, A HoUandaise, Bechamel or Tomato Sauce. The following is a more simple manner, where means are limited, of baking Sheepshead for frequent fam- ily use. Clean the flsh thoroughly, . inside and out; wash well and dry thoroughly with a clean towel. Rub it well with salt and pepper, then make a dressing, taking one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed thoroughly of all water, one table- spoonful of melted butter, one table- spoonful of chopped parsley a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and fry in a little lard. One dozen oysters or shrimp Or the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs added and mixed increase the flavor of the dressing, „ut the dressing can be made very nicely without. After frying the dressing a few minutes take off the stove and stuff the body of the flsh and sew up with soft thread or soft yarn. Score or slit the flsh on either side, making the scores about an inch apart and lard it either by putting a strip of salt fat in each gash or filling with larcL Grease the bottom of a baking pan put the flsh in it and dredge thickly with salt and flour and a little Ca- yenne. If possible, pour over a half ■bottle of white wine, otherwise sim- ply cover the bottom of the pan with the grease, add a little boiling water, and put the flsh in a hot oven. Baste every ten minutes or so by tak- ing a spoon and pouring the gravy over the fish. Allow about fifteen minutes of baking to every pound of flsh, the ordinary sized fish of four pounds requiring about one hour. When brown on one side, turn on the otlier, and when done carefully, slide the fish into the center of the flat dish in which it is to be served, and garnish nicely with slices of lemon, fried potato balls and chopped pars- ley. Make the garnish by placing sprigs of parsley between the fried potato balls and laying on the slices of lemon. Serve with HoUandaise Sauce or Bechamel Sauce. (See ceipts.) Again, where the the fish is not baked in wine and served with se- parate sauce a good sauce from its own juices may be made. Simply grease and cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water and place in the fish. As it begins to bake well take a half dozen good, fresh toma- toes, or a half can of tomatoes, one onion, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme and a blade of mace, chop all fine, and mix thoroughly and pour over the baking flsh. Add a little butter, salt and pepper, and a very good every-day sauce will be the result . Red Snapper may be baked in this same simple style where the purse will not permit of the more expensive recipe, given further on. Red Snapper and Redfish. Red Snapper et Poisson Rouge. These are distinctive fish, and form unique and most delightful dishes of the Creole cuisine. Courtbouillon ft la Cr6ole. Six Fine Slices of Redflsh or Bed Snapper (equal to 3 Pounds.) 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfnb of Flour. 12 Well-Mashed Allspice. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Large Onion. 1 clove of Garlic. Large Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can. 1 Quart Of Water. 1 Glass of Claret. Tie Juice of 1 Lemon. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 41 Those kings o( the New Orleans French Market, the Red Snapper or the Redfish, are used in making the pride and glory of the New Orleans cuisines, a good "Courtbouillon." More generally and with finer results the Redfish or "Poisson Rouge" is used. This fish may always be known by the single spot on the tail. The old Creole darkies have a tradition that this was the fish which the Apostles brought to the Savior when he performed his great miracle of the loaves and me fishes. They hand down the quaint legend that the Sa- vior took up this fish between his fin- gers and blessed it, and it was ever after a marked fish in the waters, the imprint of the Lord's fingers hav- ing remained on the spot where, he held up the fish and blessed it and of- fered it to His Father. They hold the Redflsh in reverent veneration, and never fail to tell the little children when cooking it: "dose am de marks ob de Lord's hand." To make a real Courtbouillon slice the Redflsh in fine, clear-cut pieces, after having thoroughly washed and cleaned, it. Make a "Roux" by put- ting one tablespoonful of lard in a deep can or kettle. When hot add gradually two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Throw in about ten or twelve well-mashed allspice, and three sprigs each of chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjo- ram, one clove of garlic and one large onion, chopped very fine. Add six fresh, large tomatoes, chopped fine. Or one-half can of tomatoes. Pour in one glass of good claret, add about one quart of water, and let it boil well. Then add salt and Cayenne to taste, and when this has boiled about five minutes add the fish, putting in slice ay slice. Add the juice of a lemon, and let all boil aoout ten minutes. Serve with French fried "potatoes, mashed po- tatoes or potato croquettes. A Courtbouillon of Red Snapper Is made in the same way. Spanish CourtbonlUon, Courtbouillon a. I'Espagnole. 6 Slices of Redflsh pr Red Snapper (equal to 3 pounds.) 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Large Onion. 6 Tomatoes. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Tliyme. . 1 Spiig of Sweet Basil. 2 Bay Leaves. 1 Cup of White Wine. 2 Pints of Water. The delightful adaptability of the New Orleans cuisine to the wants of all the people may be seen in the following Courtbouillon, which is in general use among the families of moderate means, and is, indeed, a very pleasing way of cooking Red- flsh: Buy in the French Market four or six slices of Redflsh. Make a Roux by putting one tablespoonful ot lard into the stew pan, and when It is hot, stir in gradually two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add one large chopped onion, six tomatoes (chopped), the chopped parsley, clove of garlic, sweet basil and thyme, all chopped very fine. Add two bay leaves whole. "When it browns nicely without burn- ing, pour in about two pints of water and let it come to a boil. Rub the flsh well with salt and pepper, and pour over it a cup of boiling vin- egar, if you have no white wine. Put the flsh slice by slice into the pot and let it simmer for about a half hour, or until the flesh begins to be soft. Then remove from the fire, take out of the pot, and lay the slices in a dish. Take the bay leaves out of the ^avy, pour the gravy over the flsh, and serve with garnishes of sliced lemon. - Courtbouillon is very palatable served in this way. It is a most eco- nomical Friday or fast-day dish in large families when served with boiled rice, or potatoes boiled whole. Bouillabaise. 6 Slices of Red Snapper. 6 Slices of Redflsh. % Bottle of White Wine. % Lemon. 6 Large Fresh Tomatoes, or ^ Can. 3 Onions. 1 Herb Bouquet. 3 Cloves of Gallic. 3 Bay Leaves. 3 Spi'lgs of Thyme. 3 Spiigs of Parsley. 6 Allspices. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 1 Good Strang Piuch of SatEron. ■Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. This is the dish that drew from Thackeray that famous tribute to Creole cookery: "In New Orleans you can eat a Bouillabaisse, the like of which was never eaten in Marseilles or Paris." The reason is clear, for in those old French cities the Bouillabaisse is made from the fish of the waters of the Mediterranean Sea, notably the Sturgeon and the Perch combined, while in New Orleans it is made from those matchless fish of the Gulf of Mexico, the Red Snapper and the Redfish (Poisson Rouge). It will be noticed that it takes two kinds of flsh to make a Bouillabaisse. The first Bouillabaisse was made in Mar- seilles, and the old Creole tradition runs that it was the discovery of two sailor fishermen, who were disput- ing as they sat in a schooner as to the proper way of cooking a Stur- geon and Perch combined. Both es- sayed: One succeeded in making a delightful dish that would have glad- dened the heart of any old French "bon vivant." The other failed. The successful one enthusiastically of- 42 fered to teach his friend, and as the latter was following the directions im plicitly, and the finishing touches were being given to the dish, the teacher, seeing that the critical and important moment had come when the flsh must be taken from the Are, or it would be spoiled if it cooked a moment longer, cried out, bringing down his hand emphatically: "Bt quand ga commence a bouillir — Baisse!" Hence the name "Bouilla- baisse," which was given to the disli from that moment. From all por- tions of Europe people go to Mar- seilles to eat a "Bouillabaisse" on the seashore. The taste of the Bouillabaisse still lingered in the mouths of the old French Creole settlers of New Or- leans. The famous old chefs sought two fish from the water of the Mex- ican Gulf that might be used in tlie making of the dish with a reason- able hope of success. They chose tlie Red Snapper and the Redfish. The result is told in Thackeray's tribute. The Creole Bouillabaisse, with the modifications and improvements that early ingenuity suggested, is a dish that was the standing offering in an- tebellum days to every distinguished Parisian or foreigner that visited New Orleans. Its reputation is sus- tained by the Creole cuisiniSres of our own day. It is made as follows: First cut off the head of the Red Snapper and boil it in about one and a half quarts of water, so as to make a fish stock. Put one sliced onion and a herb bouquet consisting of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, into the water. When reduced to one pint, take out the head of the fish and the herb bouquet and strain the water and set it aside for use later on. Take six slices of Redfish and six slices of Red Snapper of equal sizes and rub well with salt and pepper. Mince three sprigs 'Of thyme, three sprigs of parsley, three bay leaves and three cloves of garlic, very, very fine, and take six "allspice and grind theni very fine, and mix thorouglily Witli the minced herbs and garlic. Tlien take eabh ?lice of fiSh and rub Well with this mixturfe till every por- tion is permeated by fhe herbs, spice and garlic They must be, as it were, soaked into "fhe flesh, if you would achieve the success of this dish. Take two tablespoonfuls of fine olive oil and put into a very large pan, so large that each slice of the fish may be put in without one piece overlapping the other. Chop two on- ions very fine and add them to the heating' oil. Lay 'the fish slice by slice in the pan and cover, and let them "6touK6," or smother for about ten minutes, turning once over so that each side may cook partly. Then take the fish out of the pan and set the slices in a dish. Pour a half bottle of white wine into the pan and stir well. Add a half can of toma- tes, or six large fresh tomatoes sliced fine, and let them boil well. Then add half a lemon, cut in very thin slices, and pour over a pint of the liquor In which the head of the snapper was boiled. Season well to taste with salt, pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Let it boil until very strong and till reduced almost one half; then lay the fish slice by slice, apart one from the other, in the pan, and let boil five minutes. In the meantime have prepared one good pinch of saffron, chopped very fine. Set it in a small deep dish and add a little of the sauce in which the fish is boiling to dissolve well. When well melted, and when the fish has been just five minutes in the pan, spread the saf- fron over the top of the fish. Take out of the pan, lay each slice on toast, which has been fried in butter; pour the sauce over and serve hot immediately. You will have' a dish that LucuUus would have envied. Boiled Red Fish or Boiled Red Snapper. Poisson Rouge ou Red Snapper Bouilli. A 3-Pound Redfish or Red Snapper. 1 Sliced Onion. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful of French Vinegar. Salt and Pepper to Taste. An Hollandaise Sauce. Wash and thoroughly clean the fish, and then lay on a pan and open the flesh on either side by making the letter "S" with the knife. This is done to prevent the flsh from puffing out or -drawing up, and to insure thorough cooking and a perfect shape afterwards. Then tie the fish well with cord or tWine, wrapping it around the body. Never encase a boiled fish in a cloth; put the flsh in a deep saucfepan and add boiling wa- ter sufficient for the flsh to swim in it. Throw in a tablespoonful of sp-ice (well mashed), a sUced onion, three bay leaves, a sprig of thyme and sweet marjoram, a sprig o£ parsley (all chopped very fine), a tablespoonful of French vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover well and let it boil for ten minutes. After ten minutes, the flsh is cooked. Prepare a "Cream Sauce" (.=ee re- cipe) and serve immediately. 43 Baked Rea Snapper. Red Snapper a. la Crgole. A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Founds in Welglit. 2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled Sbrinip. 1 Dozen Boiled Crawflsli, 2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Gup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 3 Large Tomatoes, y^ Can of llusbrooms. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 1 Bottle of White Wine. Salt and Pepper. Clean and wash the Red Snapper thoroughly. Make a cut in the shape of the letter "S" on the back and stuff this with spice, thyme, clove and bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub tlior- oughly inside and out with salt and pepper. Make a good stuffing by taking one dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed of all water, one large on- ion chopped fine, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and fry in a pan witli a tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the body of the fish and sew up witli soft thread. Lard well, that is, rub thoroughly with lard and place in the oven. Pour over immediately a bottle of white wine, and let the fish bake well in the wine. In the meantime, prepare the following sauce: Take one large tablespoonful of butter, one large chopped onion, one sprig of thyme, one of bay leaf. Brown the onions and butter, being careful not to burn, and put in three tomatoes; add the chopped herbs; brown and add a pint of oyster water which has been heated by blanching ■ the oysters. (Blanching means to place the oysters on the'-fire in their own wat^r and heat thoroughly with- out boiling.) Season the sauce with pepper and salt to taste. Have ready iii, another dish one dozen parboiled or blanched oysters and two dozen boiled shrimp. Put the fisli in the dish in which it is to be served garnish with the oysters and shrimp, placing them 6-^k.X' the fish,' and mingle about a half can of mush- rooms.' Haye also' ready a dozen nicely- boiled ' crawfish. Garnish the fish with these, placing them all around, it in the dish'' in which it is to be served. Pour the sa,uce over all and set', in the oven and' bake a few mihiitfe's 'longer and serve hot.- ' A Simple Every-Day Recipe For Balcing Red Snapper. ' Red Snapper au Gratin. 1 Fine S-tound Red Snapper. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 targe Onion. ' 3 Sprigs of ParslSy. ■ "' 1 Bay Leaf. 1 COp of Stale Bread Cniml)s. % Tea Clip of Water. Salt and. Pepper. Select a fine, Idige^flsh, clean and wash thoroughly. Make a dressing by taking one cup of stale bread, wet and squeezed of all water; one large onion and three sprigs of par- sley. Chop the onions and parsley fine and mix with the bread crumbs and fry in a spoonful of butter, seasoning well with salt and pep- per. Stuff the fish and sew up with a soft thread. Then rub the fish thoroughly with salt and pepper and butter. Put small pieces of butter all over the fish and add a few pieces on the bottom of the baking pan. Pour in water to the depth of two inches, cover the pan and bake on the outside of the oven, about an hour and a half. When the fish is baked in the oven it partakes more of the character of roasted fish. Red Snapper & la Chambord. Red Snapper a, la Chambord. A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight. 2 Dozen Oysters. % Can Mushrooms. 3 Large Tomatoes. 2 Large Onions. 1 Cup of Stale Bread. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 1 Bottle of White Wine. Salt and Pepper. Clean and wash the Red Snapper carefully. Cut a space six Inches square on the surface of the upper side of the fish, and carefully remove the skin within the enclosed space. Then lard this space closely with very fine larding needles, and fill in with spice, thyme, clove and bay leaf, all minced very fine. Rub thor- oughly inside and outside with salt. Make a good stuffing by taking one dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed of all wa- ter; one large onion, chopped fine; a half tablespoonful of salt and black pepper to taste. Mix well and fry in a pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the body of the fish and sew up with soft thread. Lard well- and, after rubbing thoroughly with the lard, place in the oven. Pour over immediately a bottle of white wine and let the fish bake well in the wine. In the meantime pre- pare the following sauce: Take one large tablespoonful ,of butter, one i large chopped onion, one sprig of I thyme, one of bay leaf. :^rb-wn the ; onions and butter, being careful not to burn, and put in three large to- matoes. Add the chopped herbs, , brown and add the pint of oyster i -water, which has been heated witli blanching the oysters. (Blanching means to pla'oe the oysters on the fire in their own water and heat thoroughly without boiling.) Sea- son the sauce with pepper and salt to taste. Put the fish in the dish in which it is to be served, and 'gar- nish with the oysters, placing them over, the fish and mingling between about a half can of mushrooms. Af- 44 ter garnishing the fish nicely, pour the sauce over all and set in the oven a few minutes longer and serve hot. Hed Snapper With Tomato Sauce. Red Snapper Si la Sauce Tomate. A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight. 12 Large Tomatoes or a Can. % Can of Muslirooms. 2 Large Onions. 3 Sprigs Each of T^yme and Parsley. 2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. M Inch of Garlic, or 1 Clove. 1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 1 Bottle of White Wine. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter, or Olive OH 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and Red _Pepper. Prepare the fish, following the di- rections given in the recipe for Hed Snapper a la Crgole to the point of larding thoroughly. After larding pour over immediately the bottle of white wine, and let the fish bake well in the wine. If wine is not avail- able, use a cup of warm water In- stead; but the wine enhances "the taste of the dish. When the fish is done, put one tablespoonful of olive oil or one large tablespoonful of but- ter into a saucepan, and one large chopped onion and let brown; add one tablespoonful of flour, and let the same brown. Then take the sliced and chopped fresh tomatoes, or strain a can of tomatoes in lieu of the former, and add to the sauce. Add immediately a small glass of the best white wine, and a halt can of mushrooms chopped fine, place in the sauce the bouquet of sweet herbs, thyme, bay leaf, and add an inch of garlic, minced very fine. Season with red pepper only. Pour this sauce over the baked fish after placing it in the dish in which it is to be served; set in the oven a few minutes and bring to the table hot. Redflsh, Sheepshead and Grouper may also be cooked according to this recipe. A Simple Way of Baking Rcdflsli. Poisson Rouge au Gratln. 6 Slices of RedBsh or a Fish Weighing Pounds. 2 Large Onions. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter S Sprigs of Thyme i Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A HoUandalse Sauce. In families of very moderate means thP -RiSflc^ economical to purchase the Redfish or Red Snapper by the s hce than to buy a whole fish ThI liTLZ'^''^, according to the size of four o^/ '^ medium-Sized slices, or four or five larje slices, will serve a family of six. Where the Redflsh IS purchased whole it may be ore pared for everyday dinner, according to the recipe given above for bakinl , Red Snapper. When purchased in slices, clean the outer edges well of the fins, wash and then rub the fish well with salt and pepper. Prepare some chopped onion and parsley and lay in a deep baking pan. Place a layer of fish over this and then a layer of small lumps of butter and chopped parsley and onion. Place over this another layer of fish. Cover with another layer of chopped pars- ley, onions and butter, and place in the oven to bake. Bake about an hour, basting frequently, and serve with a Hollandaise Sauce. (See re- cipe.) Baked Grouper. Grouper au Gratin. A Fine Grouper (weight 3 pounds.) 2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled Shrimp. 1 Dozen Boiled Crawfish. 2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 1 Cup of Stale Bread. 2 Large Tomatoes. % Can of Mushrooms. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 1 Bottle of White Wine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean and wash the Grouper thor- oughly. Make a cut in the shape of the letter "S" on the back and stuff this with spice, thyme, clove and bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub thor- oughly inside and out with salt and pepper. Make a good stuffing by taking one dozen' oysters, one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed -jDf all water, one large on- ion, chopped-fine, a halt teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and fry in a pan with a table- spoonful of butter. Stuff the body of the fish and sew up with soft thread. Lard well, that is, rub thor- oughly with lard and place in the oven. Pour over immediately a bot- tle of white wine, and let the fish bake well in the wine. In the mean- time, prepare the following sauce, a, la Chambord: Take one large ta- blespoonful of butter, one large chopped onion, one sprig of thyme, one of bay leaf. Brown the onions and butter, being careful not to burn, and put in three large tomatoes; add the chopped herbs; brown and add a pint of oyster water, which has been heated by blanching the oysters. (Blanching means to place the oysters on the fire in their own water and heat thoroughly with- out boiling.) Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Have ready in another dish one dozen parboiled or blanched oysters and two dozen boiled shrimps. Put the fish In the dish in -which it Is to be served, garnish with the oysters and shrimps placing them over the fish, and mine- , gle between about a half can of 15 mushrooms. Have also ready a doz- en nicely boiled crawfish. Garnish the flsh with these, placing them all around it in the dish in which it is to be served. Pour the sauce over all and set in the oven and bake a few minutes longer and serve hot. Where economy is desired Grouper may be boiled or baked according to the more simple methods given above for cooking Red Snapper. Sse recipes "Boiled Red Snapper" and "Red Snapper au Gratin." FLOUNDER. Sole. The Creoles gave to the Flounder, one of the finest flsh found in the waters of the Mexican Gulf, the French name "Sole," because while the flsh was somewhat different in size and shape, they found that the meat of the Flounder was identi- cally the same as that of the "Sole" found in the waters of the Mediter- ranean Sea. Quick to discover and appreciate, they applied to the Flounder the name "Sole," and adap- ted it to the French modes of cook- ing the latter flsh, especially apply- ing to it the famous old French re- cipe "Sole a la Orly." Otherwise in New Orleans the Flounder is always either tried and served with a sauce "a la Tartare." or baked "a, la' Nou- velle Orleans," or "a la Normande." or served with -a white wine sauce as in Baked Sheepshead. (See recipe "Baked Sheepshead," or "Casburgot au Gratin.") Flounder & la Orly, Filets de Sole a la Orly, 6 Filets of Flounder. A Cup ,of Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Egg. Bread Crumbs. A Tomato Saure. Parsley to Garnish. Have the fish dealer cut the Floun- der in fllets and trim, neatly remov- ing all the bones. Beat an egg with milk, and dip in the slices of fish. Roll in bread crumbs and fry in butter. Serve with parsley garnish, with a. Tomato Sauce. (See recipe.) Flounders & la Tartnre. Soles Frites a la Tartare. 3 Pounds of Flounders. 3 Eggs. 10 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. A Bunch of Parsley. 1 Sliced Lemon. A Sauce a la Tartare. Clean and trim the Flounders. Beat well ITwo or three raw eggs. Have ready a frying pan, with eight or ten tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Place over the fire. When well heated, dip the fish into the eggs, roll well and place in the frying pan. Cook for about five minutes, turn on the other side, and cook about the same period. Then drain by plac- ing on a heated brown paper. Gar- nish a dish with a bed of fried pars- ley, lay the Flounders upon it and garnish with sliced lemon. Serve with Sauce a la Tartare. (See re- cipe.) Flounder & la Nouvellc Orleans. Sole a la Nouvelle Orleans. A 3-round Flounder. 2 Tablespoontnls of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 6 Allspice. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 1 Can of Mushrooms. Croutons. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Select a fine, fresh Flounder, par- boil, by scalding well after it has been cleansed. Slit open in scores on top and put in butter and salt, and set to bake in an oven. Wlien it is two-thirds cooked, take oft and pour over a cream sauce made of two tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, spice, thyme, parsley, sweet basil and bay leaf, a can of mushrooms, all chopped fine, and cook about five minues. Af- ter pouring this over the flsh, put back in the oven and let it bake till done, which will be in about flftoen minutes. Prepare Croutons, or crusts of bread cut in diamond shape, fry these in butter and use as a garnish for the fish. Flounder II la Normande. Sole a la Normande. A 3-Pound Flounder. 8 Shallots. 3 Bay Leaves. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 - Clove of Garlic. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Cups of Bouillon or Water. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Can of Mushrooms. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne. Groutons Cut in Dice Shape. Cut open the Flounder down the back. Dig inside under bone to right and left, without breaking the meat. Chop the bay leaves, thyme and clove of garlic very, very fine and mix with a half teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of black ■pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Huh the Flounder all over on the inside and under the cutting and outside with this preparation, seasoning thoroughly. Chop the shallots, green and white, very fine. Put a table- spoonful of butter in a fiat saucepan or stewing dish, and put the shallots with the butter. Day the Flounder on top of the shallots and butter, and let it cook slowly on a slow fire for about ten minutes. Then turn on the other side and cook ten min- utes longer. In the meantime take another saucepan and put into It one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour. Dissolve this immediately 46 with two cups of bouillon or water so tliait-the sauce will be white. Let it cook about five minutes, and then add the well -beaten yolks of the eggs, and one. can of niushrooms. Let all cook ten minutes longer, and then take the Flounder out of the saucepan in which it has been cook- ing and lay on a flat silver dish; then mix the sauce in which it has been cooking with the mushroom sauce. Taste the sauce and add salt pepper and Cayenne, according to taste. Pour this sauce over the flsh, around which you will have placed Croutons cut as dice and fried in the dish, and then cover the fish and put it in the bake oven for fifteen minutes. Serve hot in the dish in which it was baked. Baked Flounder, Sole au Gratin. A 3-Pouiiia Flounder. 1 Large Onion. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 TablespoonJrls of Flour. 1 Bay Leaf. i Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs jf Parsley. 1/, Bottle of Wblte .Vine. 6 Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Doz'jn Lalie Shrimp. 1 Dozen Oyst'jrs. ^ Can of Mushrooms. Clean and wash the fish; place on a platter; chop one large onion fine, 2 Crackers. Ta-j Toast Cut in Dice Shape, rub the fish first with salt and blacK pepper, then take a large and deep kitchen pan, pJace within a table- spoonful of butter, the chopped on- ion, bay leaf and thyme. Place the fish on top of this and pour over a half bottle of white wine. Cover with another close pan and put the whole on top of the oven (not on the inside). Bake from the bottom. When it begins to boil from below, turn the fish over carefully without breaking, and let it bake on the other side. Take a saucepan and put with- in a tablespoonful of butter and mix thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls of floi'r. Let it brown without burn- ing, and then add six fresh toma- toes, skinned and chopped fine'; or a half can. Add two dozen Lake Shrimp that have been cleaned well and scalded, a half can of mush- rooms, salt and pepper to taste. Let d,ll cool: for about five minutes and then water with the gravy in which the flsh is cooking. Mix well and cover the flsh with it. Parboil one dozen oysters, and when the fisji is cooked, set it in the dish in which it is to be served and place the oysters all around it on small slices of dry toast. Cover the flsh alternately with the shrimp and oysters, as a garnish over and around it. Mash two crackers into crumbs and sprinkle over it; also some finely- chopped parsley. Place small bits of butter alternately over the fish; set the dish in the -oven, and bake with a quick fire until brown. Serve immediately. POMPANO. Pompano is the crowning glory of tlie fish of the New Orleans market. It is peculiar to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, Mississippi Sound ana the Louisiana Grand Isle shore. The word Pompano is derived from the Spanish "Pampano," signifying a peculiar greenish-tinted plant, and the name "Pompano" was given to the flsh by the early Spanish flsher- men on account of the delicate greenish color which- distinguishes it. Nothing to be compared with the Pompano exists in the Northern, Eastern or Western waters, and no stranger leaves New Orleans without having tasted once of this delightful flsh. The New Orleans Pompano has a world-wide fame. The Pompano used to come in the early spring and remain but a few weeks, hence the flrst flsh that appeared in the French Market were eagerly sought after as a great luxury. Pompano are more plentiful now and are to be found in the market almost all the year round. Pompano & In Mnltre d'Hotel. A Fine Pompano, or Small Ones in Weiglit to Equal Three Pounds. A Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. A Tablespoonful of Butter. The Juice of 1 Lemon. A Sliced Lemon. Parsley to Gamisb. Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. _, There is only one way to cook Pompano and that is to broil it and serve with a. Sauce k la Maitre d'Hotel. To broil the Pompano split the flsh in the middle of the back if the fish is large; if small, broil whole. Sea- son well by rubbing with salt and pepper, mixed with a little sweet oil. Put the Pompano on the broiler and see that it is browned well on both sides, using always the double wire broiler. When done, place in a heated dish (heat by placing in a bain-marie or hot water bath and dry thoroughly). Butter the fish nicely and squeeze the juice of a lem- on over it. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce ft la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) You will have a dish that a king might envy. SPANISH MACKEREL. Maquereau Espagnol. Spanish Mackerel is another deli- cate and delicious flsh, only to be found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. The Gulf of Mexico was, i" early Creole days, a part of the vast expanse known as "The Waters of the Spanish Main." The early Span- ish flshermen found here a flsh resem-' 47 bling the mackerel, but of a dainty delicacy of .flavor far superior to any mackerel yet known to epicures, and tliey gave to it tlie name "Spanish Mackerel." It stands on an equal footing with the Pompano in the es- timation of epicures. The Spanish Mackerel should always be broiled. It is a splendid breakfast dish and a famous entrSe at dinners. Broiled Spanisli Mackerel, Maquereau Bspagnol GrillS. A Spanisli Mackerel, or 3 Pounds Weight. 1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Jnice ot 1 Lemon. 1 Sliced Lemon. Parsley to Garnish. Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. Prepare in the same manner as the Pompano, serving whole. "Where the fish is large, split downwards, in the middle of the back, and broil in the same manner as the Poxnpano and place on a dish garnished with pars'ley and -slices of lemon. Serve witli a Sauce a, la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) These are special re- cipes, used only in broiling Pompano and Spanish Mackerel. BLUE PISH. L,e Poisson Bleu. A Fine Bluefish, or Fish in Quantity to Equal 3 Pounds. 1 Tahlespoonful ot Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Sliced Lomon. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley to Garulsh. Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. The Bluefish is a splendid fish of the salt-water variety and much sought after. It should' always be broiled. Split the fish in the middle of the back if the fish is large; if small, broil whole. Season well by rubbing with salt and pepper, mixed v/ith a little sweet oil. Put the Pompano on the broiler and see that it is browned well on both sides, using always the double wire broil- er. Wlien done, place in a heated dish (heat by placing in a bain- marie or hot-water bath and dry thoroughly). Butter the fish nicely and squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce a, la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) TROUT. De la Truite. Of fine and delicate flavor, the Green Trout and Speckled Trout are , great favorites in the New Orleans cuisines. Trout is especially recOTi- mended as a breakfast dish, nothing being more appetizing than this for a morning portion. It may be broiled or boiled. Tenderloin Trout cut into filets, or cutlets. Is also fried and makes a most palatable dish. We have the Suit-Water Trout and the Fresh-Water Trout, and both are excellent. Boiled Grecu Trout. Truite Verte Bouiliie. 6 Medium- Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones. A Keule of Boiling Water. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of thj-me. 1 Sprig of Oiilun. A Clove of Garlic (if desired.) 10 Cloves. 2 Dozen Allspice. A Seedless Red Pepper Pod. A Bit of Lemon Peel. Parsley aud Lemou to Garnish. Select fine fresh Trout. C.ean and wash the ■ fish thoroughly. Make a small letter "S" with knife on the back; pass twine around the body of the fish so as to secure it. Never wrap or tie in a cloth. Have ready a kettle of boiling water and thVow in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay leaf, eight or ten cloves, about two dozen allspice, all mashed fine; a bit of lemon peel and a red pepper pod. When the water has boiled long enougli to iiave extracted the fiavor of these ingredients, drop tlie fish in carefully, so as to avoid breaking, tet it boil about ten minutes and then take out carefully. Put into a strainer and drain quickly. Place on a platter on a bed of parsley, with chopped parsley thrown over, and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with a drawn butter Hollandaise Sauce, or Sauce Geno- ise. ' (See recipe.) If the flavor of the spices is not desired the fish may be boiled simply in the salt and pepper water, with sprigs of pars- ley. The Creoles add a clove of garlic to the boiling water, but this is ac- cording to taste. Broiled Green Trout, Truite Verte GrillSe. 6 Medium-Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Juice of 1 Lemon. 1 Sliced Lemou and Parsley to Garnish. Follow implicitly the directions given under the heading "General Rule for Broiling Fish." (See re- cipe.) Clean the fish witlaout cut- ting off the head or tail. Broil whole over a clear, moderate fire. Before placing on the broiler rub the fish well with salt and pepper, mixed in a little sweet oil or a little butter oil. If the fish is small, broil on a quick, clear fire; if large, as mentioned above, the fire must be moderate, or the outside of the fish will be cliarred before the inside is done. When the fish is done through and through, which can easily be de- termined by the fiesh parting easily from the bone, remove the gridiron from the fire and loosen the fish from 48 the broiler with a knife, being care- ful not to break the flesh. Then place the hot dish over the fish, and, with a dexterous movement, turn the two back again, thus separating the gridiron from the fish and plac- ing the latter in the dish. Butter well, season with a little pepper and salt, if deemed necessary, and pour over a tablespoonfill of chopped' parsley and lemon juice. Serve with garnishes of parsley and sliced lemon. Speckled Trout. Truites GrillSes. Filets of Speckled Trout. 2 TaTjlespoontuls of Butter. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. The Speckled Trout is usually served in tenderloin steaks or filets. Skin and cut the fish, after cleaning, into filets or square pieces, slicing across the back. Remove all the bones and rub well with pepper and salt, and a little sweet oil mixed with the pepper and salt. .Place on the gridiron or double broiler and broil carefully, turning the broiler fre- quently to prevent the fish being charred before it is done. When nicely browned, place on a bed of parsley and garnish with sliced lem- on. Serve with Sauce 3. la Tartare. (See recipe.) Fried Speckled Trout. ' Truite Frite. 6 Filets of Speckled Trout. The Tolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Onion. 4 Sprigs of Parsley. 2 Gills of Mustard. 14 Pint of Mayonnaise Dressing. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Select fine Spotted Trout. Skin the fish and clean thoroughly. Then cut the Trout into filets or steaks. Take the yolks of two eggs and a little milk and beat together. Add salt and pepper and soak the Trout well in this, rolling over and over. Then take it out of the pan and roll in cracker or bread crumbs. Pat the fish a little all over with your hands and then fry in the same man- ner as Croakers. Serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnish of sliced lemon, with the following Sauce a, la Tartare: Take one large onion and four or five sprigs of parsley and chop fine. Sque;ze the juice out well and parboil, chopping jine and squeezing out the water. Prepare about one-half pint of Mayonnaise Dressing (see recipe) and add about two gills of mustard. Mix well and add to the parsley and onion and juices. Serve the sauce cold. Cutlets of FlBll. Filets de Poisson. 6 Tenderloin Trout Cutlets. 1 Cup of Milk. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. A Mayonnaise Sauce, or Sauce a la Tartare. Cut the fish (Tenderloin Trout) into filets or square pieces; remove all the bones, dip in milk which has been freely salted and peppered, and roll in flour; drop into the well- heated lard so that the filets will swim and fry to a golden brown. When done, drain on a brown pa- per and serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of parsley and sliced lemon. With these cut- lets serve either a Mayonnaise Sauce, a Sauce a la Tartare or a Tomato Sauce, preferably either of the former. (See recipes for sauces.) PERCH. De la Perohe. The Perch is a fresh-water fish of delightful flavor. It should always be boiled or broiled. Boiled Perch. Perche Bouille. 6 Pine Fresh Percli, 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic (if desired). lO.CloTes. 2 Dozen Allspice. A Bit of Lemon Peel. 1 Red Pepper Pod, Without the Setid. Parsley and I^emon to Garnish. Select fine, fresh Perch. Clean and wash the fish well. Make a small letter "S" with a knife on the back. Pass a. piece of twine around the body, so as to secure it. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, and throw in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay leaf, the cloves and allspice, mashed fine, a bit of lemon peel and the red pepper pod. When the water has boiled long enough to have fully extracted the flavor of these ingred- ients, drop the fish in carefully, s:) as to avoid breaking. Let it boil tea minutes, and then take out carefully and drain quickly in a strainer. Place in a dish on a bed of parsley, sprinkle chopped parsley over it and garnish prettily with parsley and sliced lem- on. The spices may be omitted if the flavor is not agreeable to some, and the Perch may be simply boiled in the salt and pepper water with the sprigs of parsley thrown in. Serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce or Saiice Genoise. (See recipes.) Broiled Perch. Perche GrillSe. 6 Fine Perch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 1 Sliced Lemon. Parsley .to Garnish. Proceed in the same manner Indi- cated under the heading "General 49 Rule for Broiling Fish." (See re- cipe.) If large, split the fish down the middle of the back, else broil whole. Serve with garnishes of parsley and sliced lemon. A row of radishes nicely dressed is often add- ed to the garnish when It is made of lettuce leaves, and sliced, hard- boiled eggs. CROAKERS. Des Grognards. 12 Small or Six Large Croakers. I Pint of Milk. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Croakers are a famous breakfast fish. They are of smaller size than the Trout generally, therefore, no definite rule can be given as to the number required to serve a family of six, all depending upon the size .of the fish. They are most delicious wRen fried. To fry the Croaker properly fill a small pan with milk, and add salt and pepper to taste. Roll the Croakers in the milk and then take out and roll in dry, sifted flour. Have ready a pan of greise that has been heated very hot with- out boiling. Brop in the Croakers and cook till brown. The fish must swim in the grease. Lift carefully out of the frying pan and serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of sliced lemon. Many persons roll the Croakers in cornmeal, but the above recipe Is far daintier and more palatable. SACALiAIT-PATASSAS. These are delightfully flavored fish of the small variety found In the Louisiana waters. They are excel- lent either fried, as in recipe for Croakers, or broiled whole. FISH BALLS. Boulettes de Poisson. The Remains of Any Fish. 1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Egg. Bread Crumbs. A Dash of Cayenne. Take the remains of any fish, sea- son well with chopped parsley, on- ions, thyme and Cayenne, and a touch of garlic if the flavor is liked. Then mince all well, adding a taJDle- spoonful of butter and mix with one- third bread crumbs, mashed well. Beat the yolk and white of an egg and roll the balls, shaped in the form of a cake, in this. Pat with bread crumbs and ifry in butter to a pale brown. Fish Chowder. MS16e Creole. 2 Pounds of Fresh Flsli, Preferably Redflsli or Sheepshead. 3 Medium-Sized Potatoes. 1 Onion. 1 ClOTe of Garlic. 3 Sprigs Each of Thym,e, Parsley and Bay Leaf. V4 Can of Tomatoes. % Cup of Milk. 1 Quart of Boiling Water. 2 Ounces of Salt Pork or Ham Chopped Very Flue. Grated Oyster Crackers. Salt, Cayenne and Black Pepper to Taste. Cut two pounds of fresh fish of any kind, preferably the Redflsh or Sheepshead. Take three medium- sized potatoes and one onion and cut into slices. Take two ounces of salt pork, wash well and chop very fine. Put the pork into a frying pan, and when it is hot add the sliced onion. Smother slightly, and add chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf, one clove of garlic, very fine, and Cayenne and black pepper to taste. Let this sim- mer for about ten minutes longer. Pour over this one quart of boiling water, and add fish and half a can of tomatoes and the potatoes. Season to taste, and cover the pan and let the contents simmer for half an hour. A half cup of milk may bei added, if desired. Take oyster crackers, place in a bowl and pour the chowder over and serve hot. LOUISIANA BEILS. . ' De I'Anguille. Few of the American residents of New Orleans know the possibili- ties of preparing a most delightful dish that lurks in the often-re- jected eel. But the ancient Creoles inherited the taste of their- French ancestors, who considered eels a del- icacy, and have evolved from the traditional recipes of old France pleasing and various ways of serv- ing this fish. The most generally used in households is called dels en Matelote, Or, More Familiarly, Matelote d'Anguille. 2 Pounds of Eel, or a 2-Pound Pish. 1 Large Onion. • Pint of Button Onions. 1 Clove of Garlle. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Glass of Good Claret. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Pint of Oyster Water. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of T?hyme. Croutons to Garnish. Matelote d'Anguille is a famous old Creole dish. The following is the old Creole recipe, and when once eaten after this mode of preparation, there is seldom a refusal to give the eel its due credit as a dish fit for the most fastidious gourmet. It should 50 always be remembered that the larg- est eels are not the best for eating. The Creoles always reject those tak- en from the river, near the wharves. The eels found in the bay and lakes are the most r6cherch6. Clean and skin the eel, using about two pounds. Cut in one Inch or two-inch pieces, as desired. Take one large onion and a half pint of button onions, or a clove of garlic, and chop fine. Make a roux with one tablespoonful of lard, adding, when hot, the chopped onions and parsley, and gradually adding, when these begin to brown, the two tablespoon- fuls of flour. Pour in one good glass of Claret and a can of mushrooms. Add a pint of oyster stock or oyster water, and let cook a while. Season to taste with Cayenne and salt, add- ing bay leaf and thyme. When it boils, add the eels that have been thoroughly cleansed and placed in cold water and allowed to stand about fifteen minutes. When these are added to the matelote, let it simmer about an hour. Serve with fancy garnish of Crotltons. Fried Elels, Anguilles Frites. A 2-Pound Eel. 2 Eggs. Maslied Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean and skin the eel and place In boiling water and vinegar till thoroughly disgorged. Cut into lengths of two inches. Wipe dry with a clean towel. Beat two eggs well and add mashed bread crumbs. Roll the eel well in this preparation and fry in hot lard, following im- plicitly the directions given for fry- ing, and remembering that the flsh must ajways swim in the grease. Drain of all grease and serve on a bed of parsley. Broiled ISela. Anguilles GrillSes. 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Teaspoonfnl of Black Pepper. % Teaspoonful of Salt. A Drawn Butter Sauce, or Sauce a la Tartare. Clean and skin the eel as for fry- ing. Cut in two-inch pieces and boil till disgorged. Then roll in oil and pepper and salt. Mix well and broil quickly over a clear flre. Serve with melted or Drawn Butter Sauce and pickles, or a Sauce a, la Tartare. Eels a la Mattre d'Hotel. Anguilles a. la Maltre d'Hotel. 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Tbyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Cloves. i Dozen Allspice. 1 Onion Chopped Pine. ] Clove of Garlic. A Sauce a la Tartare. A Half Cup of Lemon or Citron Juice. Fi-led Potato Balls. Cut and clean the eel as directed and boil about twenty minutes in salt and water, putting a great quan- tity of salt into the kettle, and add- ing the thyme, bay leaf, cloves, all- spice, chopped onion, garlic and a glass of Claret. Remove the eela after cooking twenty minutes and serve on a dish garnished with pars- ley and fried potato balls. Serve with a Sauce a, la Maltre d'Hotel (see re- cipe), only be careful to add about a half cup of citron or lemon juice to the sauce. Eels & la Foulette. Anguilles k la Poulette. 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Glass of White Wine. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sffeet Basil, 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Onion Minced Very Fine. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. Juice of 2 Lemons. A Dash of Cayenne. Salt and Pepper to Taste. , Croutons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Clean and skin the eels and put in a pot of boiling water. To be sure that they disgorge thoroughly add a cup of hot vinegar. After boiling fifteen minutes, take them out and cut into three-inch pieces. Take one tablespoonful of butter, put into a frying pan, and add the eels and one can of mushrooms poured over. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smoothly, in butter as the eels be- gin to fry. Pour over, when this begins to brown, a glassful of white wine; and add parsley, thyme, bay leaf, sweet basil, and an onion minced like the herbs, very flne. As the grease rises, floating, skim it off. Add a little Cayenne, and salt to taste, if necessary. When quite done, take the yolks of three eggs and mix thoroughly with the juice of two lemons. Take the eels off the flre and add the lemon juice and eggs and be careful not to set back on the fire when once tlifese are added, or the eggs will curdle. Place on a dish and garnish with CroQtons and slices of lemon and serve hot. STUVGAREE. De la Raie. The Stingaree is a fish that the Americans laugh at, not dreaming of the possibilities for a delicate dish that lurks within its wings. The Creoles, following in the wake of their French ancestors, who ate the Stingaree found in the waters of the Mediterranean, have evolved a dif- ferent dish from the old French cui- siniSres, but one that holds its own even among the many distinguished French critics and gourmets who have visited our shores. It is called Rale au Beurre Noir. Stingnree au Benrre Nolr. Raie au Beurre Noir, 2 rounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar. 1 Tablespoontnl ot Butter. -1 -Can of - Mushrooms. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Glass of White Wine. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 2 Sprigs of PiirBley. 1 Onion Minced Very Fine. The Yolks of 3 Eggs- Juice of 2 Lemons. A Dash of Cayenne, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Croutons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Take a fine young Stingaree and cut oft the tail. Cut the wings from the body and throw away the rest of the fish. Throw the wings into boiling, water and parboil them When boiled ten minutes, talce them offi the water and then take all the skin off. The flesh will then become as white as snow. Put one table- spoonful of butter in a frying pan and let it brown without burning. When a nice coffee color, add a hand- ful of chopped parsley and let it brown for a half minute. Then add the juice of one lemon or a spoonful of French vinegar. Pour this over the flsh, salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. This is a dish much affected by Creole connoisseurs. Fried Sting^aree. Raie Frite. A Fine Toung Stingaree. 1 TaWespoonful of Butter. A H'andful of Chopped Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon, or 1 Spoon of French Vinegar. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare the Stingaree wings as di- rected in the above recipe. Cut it into square pieces of about three inches, and let these soak in the vin- egar which has been charged "with the salt and minced parsley. Then roll in egg and bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve on a bed of fried parsley, with a Sauce a. la Poivrade. (See recipe.) Stingaree With Caper Sauce. Raie Sauce aux Capres. A Fine Young Stingaree. A Pint of French Vinegar. A Handful of Parsley Minced Very Fine. A Teaspoonful of Salt. Parsley to Garnish. A Sauce Poivrade. Cut off the tail of the Stingaree. Cut off the wings, and throw the rest of the fish away. Throw the wings into boiling water charged with salt, and parboil them for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take them out ot the water aiid skin thoroughly. Place in a heated dish and pour over a Caper Sauce. (See recipe.) - ' Stingarettes, Raitons. A Fine Young Stingaree. A Caper Sauce. Salt and Boiling Water. This nam.e is given to the little Stingarees. They are prepared just like the larger ones, the wings only being used. These are soaked in vinegar and a little salt,- and then fried, after being rolled in bread crumbs and beaten egg. Place on a. bed of fried parsley and serve. ROB. Oeufs de Poisson. 1 Dozen Roe. 2 Tahlespoonfuls of Butter. The Juice of a Lemon. Lemon Sliced in Quarters. Fish eggs are a great delicacy for the reason that it is not often that sufficient can be bought to supply a dinner or breakfast table. The only- eggs of fish that are used as an epi- curean dish in New Orleans are the Roe of the Green Trout. These are exceedingly fine and delicate and are prepared after the following man- ner: First wash the eggs well and cut out fibres; butter a silver dish or, if you have not one, a nice agate, and lay the roe in the dish. Split them open, if large, and put a dot of butter on top of each. Sprinkle nicely with salt and pepper; place in the oven, bake a few minutes, and serve hot with lemon juice. Roe are also used to garnish a dish of flsh whenever the eggs can be obtained in sufficient quantity. FROGS. Des Grenouilles. Like their French ancestors, Frog legs are highly prized as a delicacy by the ancient Creoles. Properly cooked, they are much more deli- cate than chicken and a great dish at rficherchS dinners. It must be remembered that only the hind legs of the frogs are used. These are usually sold, cleaned and skinned in the French Market. But if caught by the small boys of the household or the amateur fisherman and brought home to be cleaned, the legs must be first skinned and then thrown into boiling water for five minutes. Then take them out and put in cold water. When cold, take out of the water, and wipe dry, with a clean towel. Th'ey are now ready for cooking. Tlie Pieayuire Frog. When the Picayune Frog first made , its advent in New Orleans as the ! "Weather Prophet" of this old and I faithful journal, the enthusiasm ! throughout the city was very great. ■ "Picayune Teas," "Picayune Souve- ' nir Pins," with the picture of our 52 Frog in all his various garbs as "Weather Prophet," became the fash- ion of the hour. No entertainment, no reunion, no fair was considered complete without the presence of the Picayune Prog. The Frog soon be- came the "Mascot" of every chari- table and philanthropic entertain- ment, the booth at which he was in- vited to take up his headquarters generally carrying the fair. So great was the enthusiasm that one fair lady originated the "Picayune Frog Lemonade" in his honor, anoth- er originated the "Picayune Cake," and so on. At this juncture a fa- mous old chef, residing in the French Quarter, unable to control his en- thusiasm for our distinguished little weather prophet, who had left the swamps and bayous of this old Cre- ole State to take up his abode in a great newspaper office, complimented him with an original dish, modeled up'on the old French preparation of a century ago, and named it in his , honor. With the dish the old chef sent the following recipe. It has been tried and is acknowledged through- out New Orleans to be the most de- lightful manner of cooking Frogs: Picayune Frogs 21 la Creole, A Half Dozen Picayune Frogs.. 3 Eggs. A Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 2 Gills of Milk or Fresb Cream. % Teaspoonful of Salt. 14 of an Onion Chopped Very Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take a half dozen Picayune Frogs, the more delicate the better. Cut off the hind legs and skin. Scald the legs about four minutes in boiling water, adding salt and lemon juice to the water. Then take out and dry with a clean towel. Beat the yolks an>l whites of two or three eggs, and mix in bread crumbs sifted. Have ready a pot of heated lard. Rub the Frog legs well with pepper and salt, and put into the pot of hot lard. Let them fry to a nice golden brown. Then make a sauce as follows: Take one tablespoonful of flour, one very large tablespoonful of butter, two gills of fresh milk o'- cream, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Put the butter in a saucepan over the Are. As soon as it melts, add the flour, which as been rubbed smoothly. Stir in gradually, and when blended, add by degrees the boiling milk, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Then take a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley and a half of a chopped onion that has beei well grated. Have ready two fresh eggs, beaten in a bowl. Warm the Progs' legs in the sauce, and when it begins to simmer stir the sauce briskly into the eggs. Return to the back of the stove a minute or two, being careful not to let the sauce boil after the eggs have been added, else they will curdle the sauce. Serve hot, with the compliments of the Picayune. Frogs & la Fonlctte Grenouilles &. la Poulette 6 Frog Leg!,. 2 Tablespoonfuls uf Butter, % Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoon Flour. 1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean and skin the Frogs' legs and cut them in small pieces of about an inch in size. Have ready a steiv pot and put in the Frogs' legs, with salt and pepper to taste, and half a lemon cut fine. Cover well with water and let it cook till the meat is tender. When cooked, drain and put the meat aside and make a sauce as follows: Take one tablespoonful of butter, two spoonfuls of flour; rub the flour smoothly and put in a sauce pan with the butter to melt. Add two cups of water and stir well. When it begins to. boil well, add a, half can of mushrooms. Season with salt and Cayenne. Then add the frogs; sea- son again to taste, and let this boil ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two raw eggs well, take the frogs off th3 fire and stir in the yolks thoroughly. Add the juice of one-half lemon and serve. Frogs Saute fl la Creole. Grenouilles Sautfees i, la Creole. 6 Frog Legs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 3 Large Onions. 6 Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay' Leaf. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 6 Green Sweet Peppers. Cup of Consomme or Boiling Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the Frogs' legs. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauce- pan and add the legs. Let this brown well, being careful not to burn. After ten minutes of very slow cooking on a good fire, take three large onions and slice them and let them brown with the frogs. Then add one-half dozen nice large fresh tomatoes, or a half can; cover and let these brown. Cook very slowly, adding salt and pepper to taste, thyme, bay leaf, two cloves of garlic, all chopped very fine In- deed. Let the mixture smother slowly over the fire, and, if pos- sible, add one-half dozen green sweet peppers sliced very fine, being careful ' to extract all the seeds. Stir well and let it smother twenty minutes longer, stirring frequently to prevent burning. When well :.53 smothered, that is, when the Frogs' legs are tender, which Is easily as- certained by touching with a fork add one cup of broth, if you have it, or consommfi; if not, add one cup of boiling water, and let it cook again for half an hour very slowly and well covered. Serve hot. Pried Frogs, Grenouilles Frites. 6 Frog Legs. % Cup of Lemon Juice and a Teaspoon of Salt. 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. Parsley, Sliced Lemon and Radishes to Gar- nish. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Scald the Frogs' legs about three minutes in boiling water and add a half cup of lemon Juice and salt. Take out of the water ani dry with a clean towel. Season with salt and pepper and dip into a bat- ter made of the well beaten yolks and whites of two eggs and sifted bread crumbs. Pat the Frogs well and drop into the lard, heated to a boiling point, and fry to a golden brown. Take them from the lard and drain well by placing on soft brown paper, heated. Place a snow-white folded napkin in a dish, and lay the frogs upon it and garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon, or place the Frogs in a bed of fried parsley laid in the dish and garnish with decorated radishes and sliced lem- ons. Broiled Frogs. Grenouilles Grill§es. - 6 Piog Legs. A Cup of Boiling Lemon Juice and Salt. 1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Lettuce Leaves and Paisley, or Sliced Lemons and Olives to Garnish. Clean and skin the Frogs; scald well in boiling lemon. Juice and salt. Dry with a clean towel. Mix thor- oughly a little black pepper, salt and olive oil, or butter melted, and rub the frogs thoroughly, rolling them over and over. Take out and put on a double wire broiler, being careful to turn frequently to pre- vent scorching. When done, place in a platter of delicate lettuce leaves or parsley and garnish with sliced lemons and olives. Stew^ed Frogs. Grenouilles en Fricass§e. 1 Dozen Frog Legs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Pint of Water. % Pint of Oyster Water. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 10 Allspice. 1 Clove. The Yollc of an Egg. Croutons. 2 Dozen Oysters. Take the legs of one dozen frogs and prepare the same as for frying. Take a tablespoonful of butter and put in a frying pan. "When it begins to melt, add a tablespoonful of flour and stir constantly. "When it be- gins to brown nicely, add a half pint of water and a pint of oyster water. Throw in the Frog legs as it begins to boil, and add salt and pepper, a little Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, bay leaf and sweet marjoram, eight Or ten allspice, one clove. Let it simmer about fifteen minutes and take off the fire. Have ready the yolk of a beaten egg and add, blend- ing well, and serve immediately with garnishes of Crofltons, and fried in a little butter, with oysters laid upon them. CHAPTER IX. SHBLIi FISH. Des Crustacfis. Under this heading are classed the shell fish found in our Louisiana wa- ters and those of the Mississippi Sound adjacent to New Orleans. Oysl:ers, Shrimp, Crabs, and Crawfish and the famous Green Turtle — these are the delightful varieties that are common articles of food among the people and which are to be had for the fishing. That delicious bivalve, the Oyster, has its home among us. Everyone wliD litis visited New Orleans in win- ter l'.:n noted the exceptionally pal- atable oysters that are sold in every restaurant and by the numerous -'54 small vendors on almost every other corner or s6 throughout the lower section of the city." In the caf§s, tha hotels, the oyster saloons, they are served in every conceivable 'style' known to epicures and caterers. The oyster beds adjacent to New Orleans send to our markets the famous Bayou Cook and Barataria Oysters, eagerly sought and highly ■prized for exquisite flavor and un- surpassed in quality. The Missis- sippi Sound is well-nigh stocked with oysters from one end to the other, and millions of cans are shipped yearly from Biloxi and other points to every part of the United States. And so with our celebrated Lake apd River Shrimp. No oysters are caught in the Mississippi Sound between May and September, because they are somewhat milky and con- sidered unfit for use, and so strict are the laws governing the uses of dredges in the Sound that a watch- man accompanies each dredge-boat to see that no attempt is made to use the dredge in less than fourteen feet of water, the idea being that dredges, shall not be used where the water is sufficiently shallow to ad- mit of their being dug of tongs. Thus are preserved, in all their splendid flavor and almost inex- haustible supply, our oyster beds, and while the yearly increase in con- sumption of this delicious bivalve has tended to alarm scientists and to awaken an interest in the ques- tion as to whether the American oys- ter beds may not likely become de- pleted, scientists acquainted with the oyster beds on our Gulf coast say that for domestic purposes there are sufHcient oysters to supply the United States. The railroad facili- ties for handling oysters can hardly be improved, and fresh and fine and ready to be eaten, they arrive in our markets. The Bayou Cook and Bar- ataria Oysters are with us all sum- mer, and New Orleans is the ac- knowledged commercial center ' of the oyster trade on the Gulf Coast. New Orleans opened the eyes of the United States to the possibili- ties of the oyster in every variety and form of cooking. Her chefs evolved the most dainty and pala- table ways ot preparing them, and while raw oysters remained practi- cally an unknown quantity in aris- tocratic centers in other States of the Union, the Creoles, quick to dis- cover and. apply, placed the raw oyster on their table as one of the greatest delicacies that could be of- fered the most fastidious appetite. In the following recipes are given the most delightful manner of serv- ing OYSTERS. Huitres a, la Creole. The Picayune has already given, in the chapter devoted to soups, tlie several ways that the Creoles have of preparing oysters in this style. (See Oyster Soups.) In a general treatment of oysters, it presents, first, that famous but exceptionally palatable manner in which oysters can be eaten at all hours, day or night, without overloading the stom- ach or causing the least symptom ol indigestion, viz: Raw Oysters on Halt Shell. Huitres en Coquilles. 6 Oj-sters to Each Plate. Cracked Ice. Maunsell White or Black Pepper, Cayenne and Vinegar. Lemon, Sliced or Cut in Quarters. Allow six oysters to each person where the bivalve is used to begin the dinner or breakfast. Have the oysters opened in their shell and remove onerhalf of the shell. Drain the water from the oyster shell, without disturbing the oyster, and place in plates, with cracked ice, sprinkled over with a, quarter ot a sliced lemon in the center of the plate. Serve with black pepper and Cayenne, if desired, or the famous Maunsell White, sold in all New Orleans oyster saloons. A half cup is given as "lagniappe" by the deal- ers to their customers. A more attractive way of serving raw oysters is to remove them from the shell and place in the delicate oyster plates used by the old Creoles garnished with sliced lemon between the little bed that holds each oys- ter, and placing the Maunsell White or pepper and Cayenne in the little cell in the center of the dish. Again, where these delicate plates are not in family use, place the oys- ters in the usual dinner plate in a bed of finely chopped ice, allowing a half dozen oysters for each per- son. Cut lemon in quarters and hand around with black pepper, salt and pepper vinegar. ' Dainty rolls of fresh butter and oyster crackers are served with raw oysters. A daily sight in our New Orleans streets is to see the negro servants going at lunch or supper time to the nearest oyster saloon with a great salver for oysters on half-shell. They return with the dainty bivalves ranged closely in their open shells on the salver, and with a small glass ■ of Maunsell "White, and a plate of "hard-tack" (oyster breajDi or crackers. Worcestershire Sauce is often used instead of the Maunsell White by those who do not like the taste" of 55 pepper. But the piquant Maunsell White is essentially Creole, origi- nated in New Orleans, and gives the oyster a toothsome touch that must be tasted in order to he appreci- ated. Oysters Served In a Block of Ice. Hultres sur la Glace. 6 Oysters to Each Person. A Square Block of Ice. Black Pepper and Cayenne. Sprigs of Parsley and Radishes to Garnish. Lemon Cut in Quarters. This is one of the pr"ettiest ways of serving oysters at a dinner or luncheon, as well as one of the most r^cherchfe. Have your dealer send a square block of Ice of the size desired and make a hollow in the center of the block by placing a flat-iron on the top, scooping out ■with the iron the shape desired. Then place a folded napkin on a platter and stand the block of ice upon it. Pepper the oysters nicely with Cayenne and black pepper, and place in the ice. Then take sprigs of parsley and decorate the platter, placing between decorated radishes, and alternate slices of lemon, and serve the oysters with lemon cut in quarters. The effect of this decora- tion is very charming. Smilax may be substituted for the parsley or mixed with it. The cavity should be square and deep, leaving walls of ice about two inches in thickness. Broiled Oysters. Huitres sur le Gril. 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Melted Butter and Chopped Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley to Gar- nish. Allow six or eight oysters for each person. The oysters must be large • and fat, else they will shrivel to nothing in cooking. Drain the oys- ters through a colander, lay them on a dish and. wipe- with a ■ dry, clean towel. Melt butter and dip in the oysters, seasoned well with salt and Cayenne on both sides. Have ready the gridiron ( use ajways the double wire broiler) and test , the .heat by dropping a littl-e wa,ter on it. If the water hisses, the broiler is quite" ready. Place the broiler in a warm place — just over the oyen will do. Butter and place the oysters on it: Return to moderate coals. As soon as the oysters are browned on one side, turn on the other and brown. Have ready a heated dish and serve the oysters, pouring over melted but- ter and chopped parsley (chopped very fine). Garnish with sprigs oE parsley and sliced lemon and serve immediately. Broiled Oysters on Tonst. Huitres sur Canapes. 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 6 or 8 Pieces of Buttered Toast or Milk Toast. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Broil the oysters according to the recipe given above. Have ready a heated dish; sprinkle the oysters with salt and pepper and pour over melted butter. Serve on small pieces of buttered toast, or milk toast. Sprinkle with flnely-chopped parsley. Broiled Oysters With Sauce Kspaoguole. Huitres GrillSes a la Sauce Espa- gnole. I Pint of Oyster Liquor to Every 2 Dozen Oysters. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sifted Flour. . Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Chopped Parsley.' 6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. Drain the oysters and allow about one pint of the oyster liquor to every two dozen oysters. Have ready a ■porcelain-lined saucepan and put the liquor on to boil. As the scum rises skim it carefully. Put one table- spoonful of butter into a frying pan, and when it begins to heat, add gradually two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour. Mix well and brown. Pour over this the oyster liquor and stir constantly till It begins to boil, seasoning with salt and pepper (Ca- yenne) and parsley chopped very flne. Stand the sauce in a vessel in hot water (bain-marie) until wanted, and proceed to broil the oysters in the same manner as in the recipe first given. Place squares of but- tered toast in a dish, lay the oys- ters on top, pour over the sauce, and serve immediately. Oysters en Brochettcs. Huitres en Brochettes. 3 Dozen Large, Fat Oysters. Thin Slits o( Bacon. A Tablespoontul of Butter. 1 Tablespoontul of Minced Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Oli-ves to Garnishi - ■ Have ready a 'furnace with red'^ hot coals; take fine sliced breakfas.f bacon and cut into thin slits about the size of tlie oyster. Drain three dozen large, fat oysters; take a long skewer, of silver or metal that is not dangerous, and string it first with a slit of bacon and then, afl oyster, alternating this until It" "13 filled, the extreme ends, terminating with the bacon. Then hold the oys- ters over the clear fire and broil un- til the edges begin to ruffle, "when they are done. In the meantime pre- pare some drawn butter by placing 56 about a tablespoonful in a cup before the fire to melt; place the oysters in a hot dish, alternating with slices of bacon, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and pour over the drawn but- ter mixed with abo\it one tablespoon- ful of parsley, chopped fine; garnish with slices of lemons and whole olives, and serve. The oysters and bacon may be served on the skewers, if they are not charred or blackened; but the other is the far daintier method. Oysters Broiled in Shells. Huitres en Coquilles sur le Grll. 3 Dozen Fine, Fat Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Finely. Chopped Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 2 Shallots. 1 Tablespoonful of 'Butter. Grated Bread Crumbs. Asparagus Tips and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. • Dozen Well Washed Oyster Shells. Take tijree dozen fine oysters; blanch in their own water and drain. Chop a tablespoonful of fine pars- ley, bay leaf and thyme, using a sprig each of the latter and a sprig of sweet basil. Cut up two nice shal- lots very fine and add. Place a tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- pan; add a little oyster Juice sautS, or shake the oysters without making a bouillon. When two minutes have passed, take oft the stove, place the oysters in the well washed shells, sprinkle over a little bread crumbs, and put on top of each a pinch of butter. Have ready the gridiron or broiler very hot; place the shells be- tween the double broiler, set over the fire to broil for about four or five minutes, and serve with delicate garnishes of asparagus tips and - sliced lemon. Oysters and Bacon. Huitres BardSes. 3 Dozen Oysters. Thin Slices of Breakfast Bacon. Minced Parsley. Sauce Flquante. Wrap each oyster in a very thin slice of breakfast bacon. Lay on a broiler over a baking pan in a hot oven. Tlemove when the bacon is brown. Each must be fastened with a wooden toothpick. Serve with minced parsley and pepper sauce, or Sauc^ Piquante. (See recipe.) Fried Oysters. Huitres Frites. 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and Pepper. Finely Grated Bread Crumbs. Parsley to Garnish. Boiling Lard. Drain the oysters, allowing aljout six or eight to each person to be served. Salt and pepper and then roll oysters in bread crumbs, grated very fine. Drop in the frying pan of boil- ing lard, having sufficient lard to al- low the oysters to swim in the grease. Remove when a golden brown and place on brown paper and drain. Serve on a platter garnished with parsley or on a bed of fried parsley. (See recipe for Fried Pars- ley.) Fried Oysters fl la Creole, Huitres Frites a, la Creole. , 6 or 8 Oysters to Each- Person. 1 Egg. 1 Glass of Milk. Va Teaspoonful of Salt. % Teaspoonful ol Black Pepper. Grated Cracker or Bread Crumbs. Butter Oil. Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Pickle to Garnish. Select the firmest and largest oys- ters, allowing six or eight to each person. Drain in a colander and dry with a soft linen towel. Beat an egg thoroughly and mix with a glass of milk and a half teaspoonful of salt and pepper. Mash bread crumbs or crackers in another dish. Dip the oysters one by one in the milk and roll gently in the bread crumbs, patting softly with the hands, and drop into a deep frying pan with sufficient lard or butter oil for the oyster to swim in it. In from three to five minutes the oys- ters will be done. The time given will allow them to fry to a nice golden brown, and it will not be necessary to turn them if the oil in the pan is deep enough. Take them out with a skimmer, being careful not to break, and drain on a piece of soft brown paper. Serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of sliced lemon and pickle. Bread crumbs are far preferable to crack- ers. Butter is often used in frying oysters, but the butter oil is found by experience to be better than either lard or butter. Some also use corn- meal instead of the bread crumbs, but there is no comparison as to results. SteTved Oysters. Huitres en Fricassfee. 4 Dozen Large Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Sutter. 1 Pint of Oyster Liquor. 1 Pint of Rich Cream or Milk. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take about four dozen large oys- ters, drain in a colander. Mix one tablespoonful of flour and one of butter together. Put one pint of oyster liquor on the fire and add the flour and butter blended. Have ready in another saucepan a pint of rich, hot cream. After five min- utes, add this to the oyster liquor, stirring constantly to prevent burn- ing. Salt and pepper to taste. I^t 57 it boil up once and then add the oys- ters. After three minutes serve. This is a very delicate dish. Oyster Sautees. Huitres SautSes. 6 or S Oysters to Each Person. 3 Slices o( Pat Bacon. 1 TaWespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. Olives. Pickles and Sliced Lemon to Garnisli. Drain the oysters well and dry with a clean towel. Sprinkle them with pepper and salt, and roll in a little flour. Place the bacon, cut into thin slices, in a frying pan, and let all the fat fry out. Remove the bacon .from the pan and place in the oysters, covering the bottom. As they turn a golden brown on one side, turn over on the other. Serve on squares of buttered toast, with garnishes of olives, pickles and sliced lemon. Coddled Oysters. HuStres Rotie sur Canapfis. 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. 6 Slices of Bread. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. % Tea- spoonful of Salt. % Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. A Dash of Cayenne. 2 Sprigs of ' Parsley Chopped Very Fine. 1 Bay Leaf Minced Fine. 3 Cloves. 1 ■ Blade of Mace. 1 Pint of Oys- ter Liquor. Toast five or six slices of bread to a nice brown and butter them on both sides. Drain the liquor from the oysters and put it in a saucepan. When hot, add a large lump of but- ter. Have ready a baking dish and place the toast within; lay the oys- ters on the toast, having seasoned well with salt, Cayenne pepper, chopped parsley, bay leaf, mace and cloves. Put the liquor of the oys- ters over the toast until it is well absorbed. Set in an oven and bake for five or six minutes with a quick fire. Deviled Oysters. Huitres a. la Diable. 3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. y. Pint of Cream. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Blade of Mace. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Sprigs of Parsley or Asparagus Tips, and Sliced Lemon and Olives to Garnish. Take three dozen fine, large oys- ters, drain and chop them into mid- dling fine pieces. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and two ta- blespoonfuls of flour, very smoothly. Place in a saucepan one-half pint of cream, and, when it is coming to a boil, .stir in the flour and butter. Have ready the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and, as soon as the milk boils, take from the fire and add the eggs, one tablespoonful of parsley chopped fine, one bay leaf chopped fine, mace, and a sprig of finely- chopped thyme. Add salt and Ca- yenne to taste, and add, the oysters. Take the deep shells of the oysters, which have been washed perfectly clean, and fill with this mixture; sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; put a pinch of butter on top, and set in the baking pan and brown. The oven should be very quick, and only five minutes are needed for the browning. Serve the oysters thus baked in their shells, and garnish the dish with sprigs of parsley or asparagus tips, olives and sliced lemon. Currted Oysters. Huitres au Kari. 4 Dozen Oystei-s. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 1 'Gill of Rich Cream or 2 Gills of Good Milk. % Teaspoonful of Gurry Powder. ■ A Pinch of Corn Starch. 2 Sprigs ' of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. The Oyster Water. l^Cup of Louisiana Rice Boiled a la Creole, for Border. Take four dozen fine, large oys- ters and drain the oyster liquor into a saucepan, being careful to extract all pieces of shell, and set it to boil. Wipe the oysters dry with a clean towel. Put in another sauce- pan one tablespoonful of butter and let it melt; then add two tablespoon- fuls of fiour, stirring constantly and rubbing smoothly; do not let it brown. Add about one gill of rich cream, or two gills of good milk, to the boiling oyster juice, and stir all this into, the fiour slowly, avoiding the formation of any lumps, and stirring constantly. Let this boil about two minutes. Take one-half teaspoonful of curry powder and a t)inch of cornstarch or fiour and rub smoothly with a few drops of cold milk. Stir this into the oyster juice; season a la Cr6ole with Cayenne, salt, chopped thyme, etc., and, as it boils up, drop in the oysters; let them cook about three minutes and serve on a dish with a border of Louisiana Rice, boiled so as to appear l.ke snowflakes, the grains standing apart. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the oysters to form a garnish. Oysters Jl la Poulette. Huitres a, la Poulette. 4 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Sherry. The i'olks of 2 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Rich Cream. Toasted and Buttered Croutons. Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. Prepare as in the above recipe for 58 Curried Oysters, using a gill o£ slier- ry instead of the milk and cream, ani omitting tlie curry powder. Having dropped the oysters into the boiling oyster juice, remove from the fire after cooking three minutes. Beat well the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of rich cream, add to the oysters, and serve with toasted and buttered Crodtons, a garnish of sliced lemons and parsley sprigs. niiucetl Oysters, Hultres en Haohis. 4 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Oyster Juice. A. Half Can of Mushrooms. 1 Gill of White Wiue. 3 Yolks of Eggs. 1 Tuhlespoouful of Butter. 1 Gill of Ulch Cream. 1 Tahlespoouful of Flour. Parsley and Chives aud Thyme, cboppetl fine. Scald the oysters in their ov^rn wa- ter. Drain and mince, but not too fine. Put into the saucepan a table- spoonful of butter, and, when melted, add the parsley (chopped fine), the herbs and the mushrooms. Then add the flour, which has been rubbed smoothly In a gill of oyster juice, and, after it stews about five min- utes, add the white wine; if this is not obtainable, add another gill of oyster juice. Mix thoroughly, and then add the minced oysters, and stew gently until the sauce is ab- sorbed and the mince forms a thick batter. Be very careful not to scorch. Remove from the Are and add in the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten smoothly, in the cream. Set it bade on the fire and let it remain about one minute, and serve on large toasted and buttered Crofltons, witli garnish of lemon and parsley and olives. Baked Oysters, Huitres au G.'atin. S Dozen Fine, Large Oysters. 1 TabIei^poonful of Butter. Sauce Piiiuante. 3 Shallots. 1^ Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tahlespoouful of Flour. 1 Gill White Wine. Parsley, Tliyme and Bay Lear, chopped fiue. Boil the oysters about two min- utes in their own liquor, dropping them in the liquor as it comes to the boiling point. Pass them through a "Sauce Piquante," rolling nicely. Mix the melted butter and the chopped parsley, thyme, etc., the shallots chopped very fine, and moisten well with a little oyster juice; chop the mushrooms fine and add, pouring In the gill of wine. Af- ter it is reduced, being careful to Btlr constantly, select the finest and largest shells of the oysters, which have be^ cleaned well, and place In each four or six oysters; pour over each shell the sauce, filling nice, ly, in pyramidal shape; place on each a bit of butter, and set In tho stove for about five minutes, or over a gridiron on a slow fire for about ten minutes. Serve in the shells, with garnish of parsley and le.nons, sliced. Scalloped Oysters. Coquilles d'Huitres. 4 Dozen Fine Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls o( Butter.' 1 Blade of Mace. 4 Cloyes. 1 Sprig of Tliyuic 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. % Cup of Rich Milic or Cream. Va Cup of Oyster Liquor. Grated Bread Crumbs. Select about four dozen fine oys- ters. Have ready a porcelain-li.ied baking dish, or any good dish that will not darken the oysters. Drain the oysters in a colander, strain the liquor to remove all pieces of sheil and save it. Butter the baking dish and place in a layer of oysters, well seasoned, a la Crfiole, with Ca- yenne, salt, chopped mace, cloves, thyme, parsley and bay leaf, chopped very fine. Place over a layer of bread crumbs, about a half-ineh in thickness. Place here and there lit- tle dots of butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add another layer of seasoned oysters, and then anoth- er layer of bread crumbs, until the dish is full. Then mix a half cup of rich cream and milk and a half cup of the oyster liquor, and pour over the dish. Sprinkle the last layer wlth bread crumbs and dot gently with bits of butter. Place in a quick oven and bake about fifteen or twenty minutes, or until a nice brown. The above is a splendid receipt for family use. Where it is desired to be more fastidious and scalloped oys- ters are served for luncheon, or when guests are expected, follow the above directions for seasoning and prepar- ing the oysters. Have ready about one dozen of the deep shells which have been thoroughly washed and scalloped nicely, taking off the rougli edges and every grain of dust or dirt by scraping well. Have ready a large baking pan., Place the oys- ter shells within and fill the shells with alternate layers of oysters and crumbs, allowing three or six clys- ters to each shell; sprinkle with bread crumbs, moisten a little with cream and oyster juice, and bake and serve in their own shells. The flav- or of the oyster is highly Improved by baking in Its own shell, care be- ing taken always not to scrape the inside or blanch with hot water. 59 Oysters nu Paruiesriu. Huitres au Parmesan. 8 Dozen Oysters. , Grated Piiniiesau Clioesc. 1 Cup ot Griited Brend Crumbs. 1 Gill o£ White Wiue. 1 Tublespoouful ot Cliiipped Parsley. 1 Tublespoontul of Butter. Salt, Cayeuue. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Brown the bread crumbs in a littl3 butter, and butter a shallow disli and stew with bread crumbs. Drain the oysters and dry with a clean towel; season highly &, la Crfiole; place them, one by one, on the bread crumbs; strew chopped parsley over them, and the grated cheese, using good judgment as to quantitj'. Sprinkle lightly with bread crun:bs again, and pour over all a gill of white wine. Place in the oven, whicli should be very quick; let then remain about fifteen minutes, till quite brown. Take out and pour over a little drawn butter, and serve with lemon garnish. Roasted Oysters. Huitres Rotis. 3 Dozen Fine, Large, Fiit Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Buttered Toast. Clean the oyster shells thoroughly, set them on the top of the stove or place in a baking pan until the shell is easily removed. Remove the flat outer shell. Butter the oyster in the deep ■ shell and serve very hot with salt and pepper. In old Creole fam- ilies roasting parties were often giv- en and there was always a frolic in the kitchen, the belles and beaux vying with one another iii roasting the delicious bivalve. As the shells open put in a little butter. The oys- ters were sent to the' table in their shells; by a quick movement the outer shell was removed, and they were eaten with pepper sauce or pepper, salt and vinegar. The.re were great frolics in the kitchens In those days roasting oysters as at the famous "Crepe" or doughnut parties. The good wife who wishes to de- light her husband when he comes home tired of an evening cannot better win her way to his heart than by serving him witli roasted or steamed oysters. Oyster Pan Roast, Huitres a. la PoSle. A Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. The largest and finest oysters are used for this purpose. Drain the oysters, heat a deep frying pan, drop in a generous lump of butter. When it melts, add the oysters, cov- ering and shaking the pan constant- ly over a hot flre. Have ready a dish well buttered and nicely gar- nished with parsley and lemon slices. When the oysters are brown, turn quickly into the dish and add suit and pepper and melted butter, into which you have dropped finely chopped parsley, and serve hot. Steamed Oysters. Huitres a la Vapeur. 4 Dozen Oysters. A Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne. This is a -favorite way of eating oysters in New Orleans. Have rea-dy a pot of boiling water. Drain the oysters in their shells and put the.n in a shallow tin pan, the bottom be- ing perforated. Cover and put tliom over the steamer. Let them stand about ten minutes, put into a hot dish, season with pepper and Ca- yenne, and serve with drawn butter sauce. If one has not the perfora- ted tin, steam the oysters in their shells. Wash the shells thoroughly on the outside, place the oysters in the steamer and cover, letting them remain about fifteen minutes over the boiling water, or until the shells open easily, and serve. A steamer may be improvised by using a col- ander and a closely fitting pot lid. The steamed oyster must be eaten when very hot to be appreciated in all its flavor. Oyster Frtt-ters. Beignets d'Huitres. 3 Dozen Oysters. 2 Eggs. 1 Cup ot Milk. 2 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoontul ot Salt, yj Teaspoontul of Good Baking I'oniler. Parsley or Asparagus Tips to Garnish. Take two dozen large oysters, drain in a colander and remove any pieces of shell or grit that may ad- here. Chop the oysters fine. Take two eggs- and beat until very light. Then add a cup of milk and rub in smoothly two cupfuls of flour and one teaspoontul of salt. Beat until perfectly smooth. Add one-half tea- spoonful of good baking powder. Mix well and then drop in the oysters which must be dry. Then drop into boiling lard or oil. When browned on one side, turn on the other, being careful not to use a fork or to pierce them, as that would render the oysters and frit- ters heavy. Use a skimmer in re- moving from the pot, and drain on brown paper. Serve on a dish In which you have placed a folded nap- kin and garnish with sprigs of parsley or asparagus tips. 60 Oyster Croquettes. Crotiuettes d'HuItres. 3 Dozen Oysters. 3 Gill of RIcb Cream. 1 Gill of Oyster Liquor. 2 Tablespoontula of Flour, i Tablespoonful of Butter. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne. A Well Beaten Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. Boiling Lard. Take two dozen oysters and boil them in their own liquor. Stir con- stantly and boil for about five min- utes. Remove from the fire. Take out the oysters and chop very fine. Put them into a saucepan with about one gill each of rich cream and oys- ter liquor. Rub together two table- spoonfuls of flour and one of but- ter. Add this and the oysters to tin boiling' milk and cream. Stir until it thickens and boils. Then add the yolk of two eggs. Stir this over the fire for about one minute, and then take oft and add parsley, chopped fine, salt and Cayenne. Mix well and place In a dish to cool. Then roll in a beaten egg to bind and form into cylinders of about a fing- er in length. Roll in bread crumbs mashed fine, and fry In boiling lard or oil. Oyster Croquettes fl la Crfiole, Croquettes d'Huitres k la Creole. 3 Dozen Fine Oysters. 1 Cup of the White Meat of a Chicken Minced. 6 Finely ^Chopped Mushrooms. 1 Teaspoonful of Onion Juice. % Cup of Cream. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 2 Tahlespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Salt and Cayenne Pepper to Taste. Boil the oysters about three min- utes in their own liquor. Drain and chop the oysters fine. Take a half cup of the liquor in which the oys- ters have been broiled, set it on the fire and add the chopped oysters. Then add the half cup of cream, the chopped mushrooms and tl>e minced chicken. Stir thoroughly into this boiling mixture the butter and flour which have been rubbed smoothly. Add the chopped parsley, onion Juice, salt and Cayenne, and mix well. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Let it cook about two minutes and turn it out into a dish to cool. When cold, roll Into cylinders about two inches in length and one inch In diameter. Pass through bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Serve immediately on a bed of fried parsley. Oyster Balls. Boulettes d'Huitres. 2 Pints of Chopped Oysters. 2 Pints of Chopped Sausage Meat. 1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. To every pint of chopped oystera add one pint of chopped sausage meat. Roll in bread crumbs; sea- son highly. Add one egg and roll in bread crumbs. Make into small cakes and fry In boiling lard. Serve hot. Oyster Fatties, Petites BouchSes d'Huitres. 4 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms. 2 Tahlespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Small Onion, Grated. Pepper, Salt, Chopped Parsley and Lemon Juice. Prepare a puff paste (see recipe) and lay on the ice to cool. Boil the oysters in their own liquor. Drain, put the butter in the saucepan, and when it is heated, add the grated onion and rub in the flour until smooth. Add a gill of mushroom Juice and pepper, salt and Cayenne to taste, and the mushrooms chopped in quarters. Then add the oysters and let all stew about five minutes, adding the lemon Juice. A table- spoonful of cream will improve the oysters. If this is used, omit the lemon Juice. Line the small tins with the puff paste and put In each three or four oysters according to the size of the pate. Cover with the pas-te and bake in a quick oven about fif- teen minutes. To make the open p9,t6s so much used at luncheon and entertainments in New Orleans, cut the puff paste into round cakes. Those intended for the bottom crust should be about a little less than an elgth of an inch thick. Those intended for the upper layers should be a little thick- er. Take a small biscuit cutter and remove a round paste from the cen- ter of these latter. This will leave a nice ring. Carefully place this upon the bottom crust, and then a second ring, until the cavity is deep enough to hold several oysters. Lay the pieces that have been extracted Into a pan with these and bake to a fine brown in a quick oven. Then take out and fill the cavities with the oysters prepared as above, fit on the top very lightly, and set In the oven a second or two and serve. Oyster Pie. Vol-au-Vent d'Huitres. 8 Dozen Large, Fine Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 6 Yolks of Eggs. Spices, Thyme, Bay Leaf, Parsley* 1 Slice of Grated . Bread, Take an earthen dish which will 61 hold about three and a halt pints and line the sides with ricli pld crust. (See recipe for Pie Crust.) Set in the stove and let it bake a few minutes. In the meantime, take about one pint and a half of the oys- ter liquor and put on the fire, after having drained well. Add the sea- sonings of chopped herbs and Ca- yenne. Rub a tablespoonful of flour into the butter and add to the liquor, stirring constantly. Mash the grated crumbs; add to this, and mix well. Chop the hard-boiled eggs fine. Then pour the oysters into tha pan of pie crust, sprinkle some of the chopped eggs and grated bread crumbs over, and put a teaspoonful of butter in small bits here and there over this. Then roll out very fine and thin a layer of the pie crust. Place this over the preparation and ornament here and there, all around, with neat notches or designs, which can be easily formed with the end of a spoon or the prongs of a fork. Cut a hole in the center in the shape of the letter X. Set in a moderately quick oven and bake till brown. In the meantime, melt one tablespoon- ful of butter, add the remaining oys- ter liquor and season with pepper and salt. When it is about to come to a boil, add one-half cup of rich, hot cream or boiled milk, and when the pie is nearly brown, put a funnel into the opening in the center and pour in as much of the liquor as the pie will hold. Place a delicate garnish of pastry leaves over the whole and bake a minute or so long- er. -If there is any sauce left over, serve it with the pie. Great care must be taken not to have the oysters over done. For this reason the upper crust is often baked separately, as the bottom of the pie is filled with the ingredients and the upper crust placed on and served. Else the oysters are laid in layers while raw into the crust. But they are liable to become too dry when used in this way. Oyster Salad. Huitres en Salade. 4 Dozen Large Oysters. 2 Cilsp Heads of Lettuce. The Tolks of Ibree Eggs. Va Teaspoonful of Mustard. 14 Teaspoonful of Salt. 2 Tablespooufuls of Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Oyster Salad is a favorite lunch dish. Boil about four dozen large oysters in their own liquor, season with salt and pepper. Drain and set aside to cool. Take two crisp heads of lettuce leaves and arrange nicely in the salad bowl. Turn the oysters into the center of the leaves and pour over them the following dressing: Take the yolks of three ■"aw eggs, half a teaspoonful of mus- tard, and a little salt; beat these to- gether until they begin to thicken, and add gradually olive oil, as in making Mayonnaise, until it begins to thicken. Add a little vinegar to thin and serve with the oysters. Pickled Oysters. Huitres en Marinade. Huitres rn Marinade. 50 or 100 Large, Fine Oysters. 12 Blades of Mace. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Allspice. 1 Level Tablespoonful of Cloves. 1 Pepper. 2 Sliced Lemons. ^ Pint of White Vinegar. Salt to Taste. Vi Dozen Pepper Corns. Boil the oysters in their own liq- uor until the edges begin to ruflle. Then take a half pint of white wine vinegar and a half pint of the oys- ter water and set to boil, adding the blades of mace, cloves, allspice, pep- per corns and a dash of Cayenne. Salt to taste. As soon as they come to a good boil, pour the oysters into the boiling liquor. Care must be taken to have the oysters very cold, as they will make the pickles slimy otherwise. After adding the oys- ters to the boiling liquid, set it aside to cool. Put in a very cool ice box and serve cold. This is a deli- cious Creole luncheon dish. Oyster Loal. La M4diatrice. Delicate French Loaves of Bread. 2 Dozen Oysters to a Loaf. 1 Tatilespoontul of Melted Butter. This is called the "famous peace- maker" in New Orleans. Every hus- band, who is detained down town, laughingly carries home an oyster loaf, or Mfidiatrice, to make "peace" with his anxiously waiting wife. Right justly is the Oyster Loaf called the "Peacemaker," for, well made, it is enough to bring the smiles to the face of the most dis- heartened wife. Take delicate French loaves of bread and cut off, lengthwise, the upper portion. Dig the crumbs out of the center of each piece, leaving the sides and bottom like a square box. Brush each corner of the box and the bottom with melted butter, and place in a quick oven ,to brown. Pill with broiled or creamed oys- ters. Cover with each other and serve. CHAPTER X. SHELL FISH — (ConHmiea.) Des CrustacSs This chapter embraces methods of cooking Shrimp, Crab, Crawflsli and Turtle, according to the m03t approved rules of the Creole Cuisine. SHHIMPS. Des Chevrettes. New Orleans is famous for the ex- o.uisite flavor of the River and Lake shrimps which abound in its mar- kets. The River shrimp is the more delicate of the two and is always eat- en broiled as a preliminary to dinner or breakfast or luncheon. The Lake shrimp oE larger size and firmer qualities is used for cooking pur- poses, and is served in various de- lightful ways, known only to our Creole cuisiniSres. From the Missis- sippi Sound and the New Orleans shore shrimp are sent deliciously canned to every part of the United States. In our markets they are sold fresh from the waters. Boiled Slirlmps. Chevrettes Bouillies. 100 Fine River Shrimp. A Large Bnncli of Celery and Celery Tops. 2 Dozen Allspice. 2 Blades of ^lacc. 1 Duzen Cloves. 4 Sprigs Bad) of Tliypoe, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 1 Ked I'epper Pod. Cayenne, Black Pepper, Salt. Parsley Sprigs to Garnisu. Select fine large River shrimp for this purpose. About 100 will ser\'e a family of eight. Into a pot of wi- ter put a great quantity of salt, al- most enough to make a brine. Pepper a great bunch of celery and celery tops, chopped fine; two dozen all- spice, two blades of mace, one dozen cloves, mashed fine; thym3, parsley, bay leaf, chopped fine; Cayenne and a red pepper pod. "When this ha.«; boiled so that all the flavor of the herbs have been thoroughly ex- tracted, throw in the shrimp. Let them boil ten minutes and then set the pot aside and let the shrimp cool in their own water. Serve in a platter on a bed of cracked ice, and garnish with parsley sprigs. This dish is alTvays served as a pre- liminary to a meal. A great deal of salt is required in boiling, as the shrimp absorb but little, and no af- ter addition can quite give them the same taste as when boiled in the briny water. Sle-pred SUrlinps. Chevrettes a, la Creole. 100 Fine Lake Shrimp. 1 Large Onion. 1 Tablespoouful of Butter. 1 Can of Toma- toes or 12 Fresh Ones. 4 Celery Stalks, 1 Clove of Garlic, 1 Sprig of Tliyniu. 2 Bay lyeaves. Salt and Pepper to Taate. A Dash of Cayeune. Get about 100 large Lake shrimp for this recipe. Boil the shrimp flrst according to the recipe given above, and then pick off the shells, leaving the shrimp whole. Place them in a dish. Chop fine one large on- ion and brown it with a ta- blespoonful of butter. Add a can of tomatoes or twelve large, ripe to- matoes, chopped fine, in their own liquor. Stir well and brown lightly. Then add three or four stalks of celery, a clove of garlic, a dash ol Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, two bay leaves, all chopped finely and sea- soned with salt to taste. After this has cooked ten minutes, add the shrimp. Let them cook ten minutes longer and serve. Never pour water into stewed shrimps, as the tomato juice makes gravy enough. Fried S3irlmp.«i. Chevrettes Frites. 100 Fine Lake SInlmp. 1 Cup of Milk. Grated Bread Cnimhs. Salt and Pepper to Tas1«. A Pasb of Cayenne. Fried Parsley and Parsley Tips and Olives to Garnish. I'^se Fine Lake shrimp for this re- cipe. Boil first according to the re- cipe given for Boiled Shrimps, Then take off the fire, pick off shells and season well. Take a pan of milk, seTson well with salt and pepper, After rolling the shrimp well in this, roll them in grated bread crumbs or yellow cornmeal (the lat- ter being preferable) and fry in boiling lard. The shrimp must swim in the lard. When they are a nice golden brown, skim out with a skimmer and drain on heated brown paper. Serve on a hot dish on a bed of fried parsley and garnish with parsley tips and olives. 63 Baked Shrlinps. Chevrettes au Gratin. 100 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 1 Cup \t Grated Bread Crumbs or Crackers. Boil the shrimps according to re- cipe. Butter a deep dish well and place within a layer of grated bread crumbs or powdered crackers. Pick and clean the shrimp and season well. Stew about a dozen tomatoes in a little butter and season with pepper and salt. Place a layer ot the tomatoes in the dish and then a thin layer o( crackers or grated bread and over this a layer of shrimp. Continue till you have tour or five layers, the last being of the grated bread crumbs. Put little dots of butter here and there; place in the oven and bake till quite brown. Shrimp Pie. Vol-au-Vent de Chevrettes. ICO Lake Sbrimp. 2 Slices of Stale Bread. 2 Glasses of Wbite Wine. 1 Blade of Mace. 3 Sprigs ot Thyme. Vi of a Ground Nutmeg. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 5 Tomatoes. % of a Celery Stalk. 1 Bay Leaf. % Pint ot Oyster Liquor. Boil and pick about 100 shrimp. Take two largs siloes of stale breaii and break oft the crusts, grating this fine. Moisten the bread with two glasses of white wine, and season highly with salt, pepper, a dash of Cayenne, ground nutmeg, chopped mace, thyme and parsley. Mix the s.nrimp with the bread and bake in a dish. Sprinkle over the grated, crusts and dotting with butter. Serve this pie with a sauce of dressed shrimp. To make this, take a pint of shrimp, boiled and picked; put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. Add the shrimp and four or five tomatoes, chopped fine; a little celery, thyme, one bay laaf, chopped fine; parsley (chopped) and mix thoroughly. Let it cook for about three or four minutes and adJ a half pint of oyster stock. This is delicious poured over the sliced pie. SItrlinpH in Tomato Cntsnp. Chevrettes 4 la Sauce Tomate. 100 River Shrimp. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Tomato Catsup. 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Salt, Pepper and Ca- yenne to Taste. Boil the shrimp and pick. Put them into a salad dish. Season well with black pepper and salt and a dash of Cayenne. Then add two ta- blespoonfuls of tomato catsup to every half pint of shrimps. Garnish with lettuce leaves and hard-boiled egg and serve. Shrimp Snlnd. Mayonnaise de Chevrettes, 100 River or Lake. Shrimp. 1 Small Oulon. 1 Bunch of Celery. 3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemous, Beets and Celery Tips to '(jarulsh. Boil and pick the shrimp, accord- ing to the recipe given. If Lake slirimp are used, serve whole; if Elver shrimp, slice in two, as they will be more dainty, and season well with salt and pepper. Chop celery fine and add a little onion. Place the shrimp in the salad dish and pour over all fine Mayonnaise Sauce (sei^ recipe) and garnish with sliced hard-boiled e.sgs, sliced lemon, beets and celery tops, making a beautiful and welcome dish at any luncheon, tea or home affair. A Sllrlinp Biiali. Buisson de Chevrettes. lOO Lake Shrimp. Celery Tips. Asparagus Tips. A Shrimp Bush is a famous Creole hors .d'oeuvre, and forms a very handsome table decoration aUo. Boil the shrimp according to recipe. (See recipe Boiled Shrimps.) Take a glass fruit or cake stand, the fruit' stand with several tiers being th? prettier. As shrimp are s.-nall, they cannot be hung, gracefully around the stand as in a Crawfush Bus';i. (See r-ecipe.) They are, therefore, piled, first, into a small deep dish, and a close cover is put on to press them dbwn. They are then turned over and will be found clinging to- gether in one solid mass. If a cak-^ stand is used, set a glass bowl or goblet on it. Place the shrimp on top of this glass bowl or goblet; then take dainty bits of celery tips and asparagus tips, and heap around as for a border. Another row is formed a little lower, and again intermingled with aspara- gus tips and celery tops, between which the pink shrimp are grace- fully placed and glimmer. The ef- fect is very pretty. Tlie shrimp are served from the bush as an hors d'oeuvre. The effect of the pink against the green looks for all the world like a bush of green and red. CRABS. Des Crabes. New Orleans points with pride, and Justly, not only to the splendid supply ot crabs that are to be found at all seasons in her markets, but to the various delightful ways that the natives have of serving them. The following are re'ipes that have been handed down by the Creoles from generation to generation, and no modern innovations of cookery 64 have been able to improve upon them. Hard Shell Crabs. Crabes Durs. Many Northerners object to eating hard-shell crabs on account of the difficulty in picking them. Some Northern cooks have gone so far as to declare the hard-shell crab an unpalatable and indigestible article of food on account of its shell. This idea, of course, is very amusing. One Northern authority goes so far as to declare that the crab can never take the place of the aristocratic lobster, the latter being far more di- gestible. In reality there is no comparison in the delicacy of the meats of these fish, which are, in- deed, of the lobster variety, the hard-shell crab being the small- er, and by far the more deli- cate. And as for the soft shell crab, it is a born aristocrat and is acknowledged as such by the most fastidious epicureans. There is a science in eating the hard-shell crab cooked in its own shell. The Creoles have reduced this to a fine point, and a crab may be eaten without once using the fingers, if pne only follows the following sim- ple direction: How to Eat « Hard-Shell Crab Cooked in Its Shell. The shell and cla.ws should be cracked in the kitchen, very gently, before being brought to the table if the crabs are boiled and served whole. By a delicate manipulation of the knife and fork, remove the "apron" or "tablier," which is the small loose shell running to a point about the middle of the under shell. Then cut the crab claws off, still using the knife and fork; and finally cut the crab into parts, and these again in two. Proceed to extract the meat from each quarter with the fork and eat with salt and pepper. It is considered quite "comme il faut" to use the fingers, however, in holding the crabs, extracting the meat with the prongs of the fork. Boiled Crabs. Crabes Bouillis. 1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 1 Bunch of Celery and Celery Tops. 2 Dozen Allspice. 4 Sprigs of Thj-me. 4 Sprigs of Sweet Basil. 4 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Blades of Mace. 3 Bay Leaves. 4 Sprigs of Chives. A Red Pepper Pod. A Dash of Cayenne. Black Pepper and Salt SufSclent to Make a Brine. Proceed in the same manner as for boiling shrimp. Buy fine, large crabs. The livelier they are the better. The crabs must be alive when put into the pot. Have ready a large pot of water. Throw In bunches of celery tops, stalks of eel. ery chopped fine, four or five large sprigs each of thyme, cliopped sweet basil, marjoram, chives, two dozen allspice, three blades of mace, three bay leaves,, chopped fine; a pod of red pepper, a dash of Cayenne, blacic pepper and salt enough to make the water briny. -When this has boiled long enough to have extracted all the flavor of the herbs, throw in the live crabs and let them boil rapidly for about ten minutes, or until the shells are a bright red, but do not let them boil one minute longer than this, as they will become wa- tery. Let them cool a little in their own water and then take out, strip off the "dead man's fingers," crack the claws, without breaking open, and pile high in a broad platter and serve with salt and pepper. Stewed Crabs. Crabes a, la Creole. 1 Dozen Large Live Crabs. Tablespoonfnl of Butter or Lard. 1 Stalk Chopped Celery. 1 Dozen rresh Tomatoes or 1 Can. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, 1 Clove, Garlic, gait and Cayenne to Taste. Boil a dozen fine large crabs about five minutes in order to kill them. Take oft the fire and place in a dish. When sufficiently cooled, cut oft the claws and crack, separating the joints. Remove the "apron" or "tab- lier" of the crab and the "dead man's fingers," and take off the spongy sub. stance. These are the portions that are uneatable. Remove the shell, cut the body of the- crab into four parts, cutting down the center and across. Chop a large onion very fine and brown with butter or lard, using a tablespoonful of either. Add a dozen fine, large, fresh tomatoes, chopped fine, in their liquor, and brown nicely. Stir in chopped cel- ery^ thyme, parsley, one bay leaf, chopped fine; pepper and salt to taste, and a dash of Cayenne pepper. Add one clove of garlic, chopped fine. Taste and add more seasoning if necessary. Let the mixture cook ten minutes, then add the crabs and let them cook ten minutes longer. Never add water to this sauce, as the liquor of the tomatoes is suf- ficient and makes an excellent sauce. This is a fine fast-day dish. Serve- with boiled rice or potatoes boiled- whole. Pried Crabs. Crabes Frits. 1 Dozen Fine Large Crabs. 1 Pint of Milk. - 6 Tablespoontuls of Butter or Lard. Stale Bread Crumbs, Grated. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, Onions. Boil the crabs according to re- 65 clpe. Cut off the claws and crack and cut the crabs into quarters as for stewing. Season well with pep- per and salt. Have ready a pint of milk. Mix pepper and salt in pro- protions of about two teaspoonfuls each. Have ready a pan of boiling lard and a plate of grated bread crumbs. Dip the crabs into the milk and then roll in the bread crumbs and drop into the boiling lard, frying about ten minutes or lentil a golden brown. Serve on a platter w^ith the claws piled in the center, the bodies of the crabs grouped nicely around, and garnish Tvith sprigs of parsley. This is a delicious way of serving Hard-Shell Crabs. Stuffed Crabs. Crabes Farcis. 1 Dozen Large Fine Crabs. 1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Hot Pepper. 1- Tablesponnful of Butter. Salt to Taste. 1 Cup of Wet Bread. Boil the Crabs according to re- cipe. Take off the .Are and let them cool in their own water. When cdoI crack the claws and pick out all the meat. In like manner, after hav- ing removed the uneatable portions, pick out all the meat from the bod- ies. Season well with salt and black pepper. Chop the onions and herbs very fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter heaping over into the frying pan. As it melts, add the chopped onion, and when it begins to fry, add the crab meat, which has been thoroughly seasoned with the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley and a dash of Ca- yenne to taste. Let this fry and add a small clove of garlic, chopped very fine, and finally add the breid, which has been wet and thoroughly squeezed of all water. Mix this well with the ingredients in the fry- ing pan and let it fry about five min- utes longer. Then take oft the fire and let it get cool. Take a dozen of the finest and largest crab shells, or as many as this mixture will fill, and wash and stuff with the mixture, forming it into a rolling , lump. Sprinkle this with grated bread crumbs and put a dot of butter on top, or, better still, sprinkle with the melted butter; place in the oven and bake about five minutes, or until a nice brown. Place on a platter and garnish with sprigs of parsley or celery tops. This is an excellent method of preparing stuffed crabs for jfamily use. Stuffed Crabs — No. Crabes Farcis. 2. 2 Dozen large Flue Crabs. Grated Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Thyme, Parsley and Onion. Cayenne to Taste. Boil the crabs according to recipe. Clean and cut and pick out all the meat. Chop an onion fine; chop the thyme, bay leaf, and parsley and hard-boiled eggs, and mix well with the crab , meat. Season highly witli hot pepper and salt to taste. Put one tablespoonful heaping over with butter into the frying pan. As it melts, add the onion and fry, being careful not to burn. Then add the crab meat, and, if desired, the very small clove of a garlic, chopped very fine. Let this fry about five min- utes, stirring constantly. Mix thor- oughly, fry three minutes longer, and then take off the stove. Stuff the crab shells, forming a rolling lump in the middle. Sprinkle light- ly with grated bread crumbs, a'nd put a dot of butter on top. Place in a quick oven and let them bake about live minutes, or until a nice brown. The same or even better re- sults are obtained by omitting the egg, many claiming that the deli- cate flavor of the crab meat is more daintily preserved without this ad- dition, This is a delightful way of serving crabs for luncheons, or where it is not necessary to make, as "the Creoles say, " a long family dish." Deviled Crabs. Crabes a, le Diable. ; 1 Dozen Fine Large Crabs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Tablespoon of Salt. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 1 Halt Pint of Cream. Va, Nutmeg Grated. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Yolks of 4 Hard-Bolled Eggs. Salt and Cayenne to Tjiste. Boil the crabs according to recipe. Take out and drain after they have cooled in their own water. Break off the claws, separate the shells, remove the spongy portions and the "dead man's fingers," and then pick out the meat. Put the cream on to boil, rub the flour and butter to- gether well and add to the boiling cream. Stir and cook for two min- utes. Take from the fire and add the crab meat, the yolks of the hard- boiled eggs, mashed very fine; the chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, salt and Cayenne. Clean the upper shells of the crabs, fill them with the mixture, brush over with a beat- en egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown; 66 or, better still, it you have a. frying basket, plunge the crabs into the boiling fat or lard until a nice brown. But many prefer them baked. Scallepped Crabs. Coquilles de Crabes. The Meat of 1 Dozen Picked Crabs. A Dash of Grated Nutmeg. Bread Crumbs. 1 Egg. Pepper and Salt to Taste. Boil and pick the crabs according to recipe given above. Beat an ess thoroijghly and add to the meat which has been seasoned highly with Cayenne and salt to taste. Take one clove of garlic, chop fine and add, then sift into this mixture fine grated bread crumbs or cracker crumbs, and mix thoroughly. Beat an egg, roll the crabs into bou- lets or graceful meat balls, and then bind by rolling lightly in the egg. Roll in the bread crumbs, grated nicely, and then drop into boiling lard, and fry until a pale golden brown, which will generally require about three minutes. The secret is to have them cooked just enough, for, as a rule, they are generally overdone. Wash and clean the shells thoroughly; wipe dry, sst a boulet in the center of each and garnish prettily with sprigs of pars- ley and sliced lemon. This is a dainty , dish for breakfast or lun- cheon. They must be served very hot. Crab Croquettes. Crabes en Croquettes. 1 Dozen Crabs. ) Cup of Wet Bread. Squeezed Well. 1 Onlnn. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay I^af. 1 Sprig of Thj-me. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Boil the crabs clean and pick. Then season the meat well with salt and pepper. Chop the on- ion fine, also the herbs. Put a ta- blespoonful of butter in the frying pan, and as it melts, add the choppel onion. "When it begins to fry add the crab meat which has been mixed thoroughly with the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley and garlic. Add a dash of Cayenne and put in the frying pan with the onion. Add the bread which has been thoroughly squeezed, and mix all and fry about three minutes. Take off the fire and when cool form the mixture into cylmdrical shapes of about two or three mches in length and one in thickness. Hon in grated bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard berve hot on a dish nicely garnished with parsley and sliced lemon, Crab Salad. Crabes en Salade, 2 Dozen Fine Large Crabs. 12 Celery Stalks. 1 Dozen Olives. A Mayonnaise Sauce.' Boil the crabs according to recipe. Clean and pick out all the meat. Season well with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Chop the celery fine and mix with the crab meat. Place on a dish in pyramidal shape and pour over nicely a Sauce a. la Mayonnaise. (See recipe.) Garnish tastefully with sliced hard- boiled eggs, sliced beets, asparagus Or celery tips on top and around with sprigs of parsley and asparagus tips, with sliced lemon and sliced hard-boiled egg alternating. This ia a delicious salad. Crab Salad No. 2. Crabes en Salade. 1 Dozen Large Crabs. 2 Tablespoon fuls of Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of French Vinegar. 1 Saltspoonful Salt. 1 Head Lottucc. Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Pick the boiled crabs carefully, keeping the pieces as large as pos- sible. Lay in a salad bowl. Mix a dressing of two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, one of French vinegar, one saltspoon of salt, black pepper and Cayenne, according to taste, and pour over the crabs which have been cooled in the ice box. Clean the lettuce well and put a row of crisp leaves around the edge of the salad dish. Garnish nicely with sliced lem- on and hard-boiled eggs sliced. This is a delightful and simple way that the Creoles have of mak- ing crab salad. The above quantity will serve six persons. Increase in proportion to the number to be served. Crab Pie. Vol-au-Vent de Crabes. 1 Dozen Large Crabs. Sliced Stale Bread. Butter. Milk. Cayenne. Salt. Boil according to recipe one doz- en fine large crabs and pick out ail the meat. Season nicely with salt, Cayenne and chopped thyme and bay leaf. Take stale bread and s.ice very thin. Lay in a little milk to moisten. Butter a baking pan and cover the bottom with a layer of bread. Then put in a layer of crab meat and lay over at intervals slices of lemon cut very fine and thin. Dot here and there with bits of but- ter, and then spread over another layer of bread. Then another layer of crabs, and repeat till the meat is used up. Lay on top a thick sprink- 67 ling of tread .crumbs, dotted with butter. Place in the oven and bake for about twenty ' minutes. Serve hot. So»-S1icIl Crabs. Crabes Mous. The soft-shell crab is greatly af- fected by epicures, and is a dainty dish that graces the most aristocra- tic tables. The soft-shell crab has always been considered a great luxury i.i New Orleans, where its possibilities as a, most delicate and savory dish were f.rst discovered. Northern epicures quick to appreciate the toothsome morsel, returned to their homes loud in their praises of this Creole dis- covery. The soft-shell crab is now being shipped North, and is a popu- lar feature of the Northern markets, though the prices range very high. It is said that the crab is so deli- cate that it does not stand shipment very well; sudden stopping of the express car often kills them; a clap of thunder will frighten them to death, while a sunbeam through glass will kill every one it shines upon. The soft-shell crab is found the year round in the New Orleans French Market. This crab is at its best when prepared according to the following Creole methods: Fried Soft-Shell Grubs. Crabes Mous Prites. 1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs. 1 Quart of Milk. Bread Crumbs. Salt, Pepper and Caj-enne to Taste. The greatest care must be taken in preparing and cleaning the crab. Wash carefully, removing all sand, but do not scald or blanch them, as this destroys the fine flavor com- pletely. Remove the spongy, fexth- ery substances under the side pjints. These are called the "ma'n-eaters," and are "very irritating and indi- gestible. Remove also the sand bag or "sand pouch" from under the shells just between the eyes; also remove the "tablier" or "apron." Then wash "tablier" or "apron." Then wash well in cold water and dry with a clean towel. Take a pint of milk and season well with pepper and salt; season the crabs and crack them in the milk, rubbing thorough- ly, so that the milk may thorough- ly impregnate them. Take out ond roll in a little sifted flour. Pat ISghtly with the hand, shake off superfluous flour "and fry in boiling grease, being always careful to have sufflcient grease in the pan for the crabs to swim in it. When a deli- cate golden brown, take out of the grease with a skimmer. Drain on a piece of heated brown paper, and serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes' of sliced lemon. Serve with "Sauce ' k la Tartare." (See recipe.) Soft-shell Crabs are of too deli- cate a flavor to be dipped in egg bat- ter or burdened with bread crumbs. Broiled Soft-Shell Crabs. Crabes a. la Creole. 1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour, Sifted. Butter. Sliced Lemon. Parsley Garnish. It was a celebrated New Orleans chef who first decided to broil the Soft-Shell Crab. His success was great and "Crabes a. la Creole" were in great demand at once at the lio- tels and restaurants. To broil the Soft-Shell Crab always use the double wire broiler. Clean the crab according to the method given above and wash in cold water. Dry with a clean towel and season well. Season a pint of milk with salt and black pepper, and soak the crabs in it so as to thoroughly impregnate them with the milk. Then pat lightly with a little flour and brush over with melted butter. Place between the broiler and broil till a delicate brown over a slow Are. It will generally require about flfteen min- utes to cook thoroughly. Serve on a platter, nicely garnished with pars- ley, sprigs and lemon cut in quar- ters. Pour over the crabs a little melted .butter and chopped parsley, and you will have a famous Creole dish, fit for the table of a king — a dish served at the most aristocrat- ic functions. CRAWFISH. Des ficrevisses. Besides the famous Crawfish Bis- que (Bisque d'ficrevisses. See re- cipe) the Creoles have dainty ways of serving this typical Louisiana shell fish. Among the most popular are the following; Boiled CraiTfish. Des ficrevisses Bouillies. 50 Cran-flsh. 1 Gallon of Water. 1 Herb Bouquet. Half Gallon of French Vinegar. Put the water on to boil, addins the chopped herb bouquet, one clove of garlic (chopped fine), one dozen allspice and six cloves. When the water has boiled long enough to have extracted all the juices of the herb bouquet, add white wine or the vinegar and salt — enough to make it almost briny, and Cayenne enough to make it hot. Then throw in the crawfish and let them boil about twenty minutes or until a bright red. Set them to cool in their own wa- tor and serve oa a platter piled high in pyramidal shape, and gar- nish nicely with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with salt and pepper, oil and Chili vinegar, each person making the dressing as it suits his taste. CrnTCfish Baked ft la Creole. ficrevisses Gratinges a. la Creole. 50 Crawfish. 2 Livers. ^ Can of Musbrooms. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Bouquet of Fine Herbs. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Boil according to rlscipe fifty large fine crawfish. "When cooked, allow them to cool in their own water. Clean them, picking oft the shells and leaving the crawfish whole. Take out all the smallest ones, and cut oil the tail ends of the largest ami place with the small ones; take the remainder of the large crawfish and cut up, and make a dressing with twj chopped livers, parsley, the minceJ contents of one-halt can of mush- rooms, the bouquet of fine herbs consisting of thyme, bay leaf, sweet marjoram, etc.; chop a half dozen shallots and add to the dressing, and season highly with Cayenne and salt and black pepper to taste. Cut up the yolks of two eggs and mix with a cup of the soft portion Oi' bread, which has been wet and thoroughly squeezed of all water. Place two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan and add the dress. ng when it begins to heat; cook about ten minutes and then place sin the dish in which the crawfish are to te served, making- a bed of the dress- ing. Arrange with symmetry and grace the reserve crawfish upon this bed, cover lightly with the rest of the stuffing, and dot with small bits of butter, after sprinkling with grated bread crumbs. Pour over all a Cream Sauce and the juice of a lemon. Place in the oven and let it bake about ten or fifteen minutes, and serve with Cream Sauce, sea- soned with lemon juice. (See re- cipe Cream Sauce.) A Crawfish Busli. Buisson d'£;crevisses. 100 Fine Crawfish. Celery Tips. Asparagus Tips. Parsley Tips. This is a celebrated Creole hors d'oeuvre, as also a very handsome and graceful table garnish. Boil the Crawfish according to recipe (See recipe.) Take a glass fruit or cake stand and place in the center of the table. Set a, goblet upon it. Fit the goblet with celery tips and parsley tips, and hang a number oX Crawfish gracefully around the gob- let from the rim or outer edges., Continue hanging the dish with cel- ery, asparagus and parsley tips, and hanging the Crawfish around the edges of the fruit stand, and in and out amid the greenery. The effect of the red amid the green is very pretty, presenting the appearance of a beautiful bush of red and green. The Crawfish are served from the bush. TURTLE. De la Tortue. In addition to the delicious soups already given, the Creoles serve tur- tle after the following manner. Green Turtle Steaks. Filets de Tortue. 2 Pounds of Turtle Steaks. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon ana Parsley to Garnish. Curi'ant Jelly Sauce or Sauce Poivrade. Select the female turtle, as the meat is best. If bought alive from the market, clean according to re- cipe. (See recipe for cleaning tur- tle. Otherwise the butcher may prepare it as is frequently done in the New Orleans market.) Turtle meat is very irregular, therefore cut the meat into thick slices or steaks, about the size of a filet of beef, and batter down with the hands to make smooth and regu- lar. Then fry In butter. Season well with salt and pepper and gar- nish with parsley and lemon, and serve w4th Currant Jelly Sauce or the delightful Sauce Poivrade. (See recipes.) Stewed Turtle. Ragoat de Tortue a la Bourgeoise. 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat. 1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Cup of Water. A Wineglassfnl of Sherry or Madeira. Cut the meat of the turtle about an inch in size. Chop an onion and put all into a saucepan, with a ta- blespoonful of lard to brown. As it begins to brown, add a tablespoonful of flour, one bay leaf, one clove of garlic, and a sprig of thyme, chopped very fine. Mix this thoroughly witli the turtle meat, then add a wine- glassful of Sherry or Madeira, and a cup of watef, and cook for half an hour. CHAPTER XI. SALT AND CANNED FISH. Poissons Salfis. Halibut, Salmon, Fresh Codfish, Fresh Lobster, Shad and other fish peculiar to the Northern and Eastern waters are rarely seen on New Or- leans tables, except in the great ho- tels and restaurants, which import them. With these fish, in their fresh state, this book will not treat. But the Salt Codfish, Salted Mackerel and Canned Salmon are in general fam- ily use. The Salted Mackerel and Codfish, indeed, enter very largely into the daily household economy of New Orleans, especially on fast days, as also sardines. The follow- ing recipes are modeled after Cre- ole methods of preparation: CODFISH. ' Salted Codfisb. De la Morue. First, and above all, it is neces- sary to "dessaler la Morue," as the Creoles put it, or to remove every trace and appearance of the salt in which the fish has been put up. Al- ways soak the codfish at least over- night or twenty-four hours before using in cold ivater, changing the water as often as possible, to assist in removing the salt; and always boil ori a hot fire fifteen or twenty minutes before making into any of the following dishes: Boiled Codflsli. La Morue Bouillie. Codfish. 3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 2 Gills of Fresli Cream or Milk. The Oyster Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne. Boil the Codfish about thirty or forty minutes, after soaking over- night; drain and serve with an Oys- ter Sauce, or Sauce aux Hultres, pre- pared as follows: Make a Cream Sauce (See recipe), only use, in this case, the strained juice of the oyster to blend the flour and butter, and add the rich cream or milk to make up the desired quantity, using al- ways good judgment. Scald the oys- ters in their own water about three minutes, and then add to the sauce, mixing thoroughly, seasoning with salt, pepper and Cayenne, using pref- I erably celery salt; let it boil up once and serve with the boiled Cod- fish. Egg Sauce (see recipe) may also be used with Boiled Codfish, but is not to be compared to the Oyster Sauce. ^ Fried Codllsh. La Morue Frite. Codfish. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. Soak the Codfish overnight, and boil twenty minutes, or until very tender; take out and cut into slices of one-inch thickness, and dry with a clean towel; have ready a pint of milk, and season well with pepper only; season the Codfish, rubbing a little black pepper to taste and a dash of Cayenne ' over it. Soak the fish in the milk, and have ready some crushed bread crumbs and a well-beaten egg; when the fish is well soaked, take out of the milk, and dip each slice first into the egg, and then roll in bread crumbs, pat- ting lightly, and drop in to the boil- ing lard; the fish must swim in the lard. When fried a golden brown, take out with a skimmer, drain oft all fat, and serve hot on a bed of fried parsley, garnished with sliced lemon. Stewed Codfish. Morue Sautge a. la Lyonnaise. 1 Dozen Small Potatoes, or Left-Ovcr. Salt Cod, Enough for Six Persons. . 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Dozen White Onions. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour Blended With Two of Milk. If the potatoes are not the left- over from the day before, wash and peel, and also the onion; boil the po- tatoes till tender; soak the fish over- night, and boil for twenty minutes, or until tender. Then cut the fish into pieces of about two or three inches in length. Put a tablespoon- ful of lard in the stewpan and lay In the potatoes and then the onions, and the Codfish on top; add enough cold water to cover the whole, and let it simmer until the fish Is well cooked. Then take out the fish, and allow the potatoes and onions- to sim- 70 mer on. Remove every piece ot bone from the fish, and tyim edges nicely. Take another saucepan and dissolve in another stewpan the butter and flour, as directed above; let this sim- mer gently without browning-, and then put in the potatoes, onions and fish in the order given above; pour over this the quart of cream or milk; let it simmer for about ten minutes more till the milk comes to a boil, and serve hot. Creamed Co^Jsh. Morue a, la CrSme. 3 Cups of Picked Codflsli. 1 Pint and a Half of Cream. TLe Yolk of 1 Egg. Soak the codfish overnight, and then let it boil about forty minutes. Then take off scald again and drain, and again scald and drain, allowing it to stand each time about four or five minutes before changing the wa- ter. Put one large tablespoonful of butter in the frying pan; when melted add the flour and blend, without browning; then add the milk, stirring constantly until ■ it boils, and then add the fish, sea- soning higlily with pepper and Ca- yenne. Let it boil about ten min- utes longer, and take off tlie fire; then add the yolk, of an egg which has been beaten thoroughly, and serve hot, with plain boiled potatoes buttered. Codflsh Balls. Croquettes de Morue. 2 Cups ot Picked Codfish. 2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes. ^ Cup of Cream. Bretd Crumbs. 2 Beaten Eggs. Pepper and Cayenne to Taste, Soak the Codfish overnight and boil until tenjier. Pour off this wa- ter, and scald again with hot wa- ter; pick fine, scald again and then drain thoroughl'y, pressing out all the water. Mash the potatoes, and melt about three 'tablespoonfuls of butter and mix well in the potatoes. Then add the Codfish and mix thor- oughly, seasoning with about a tea- spOontul of black pepper, and a dash of Cayenne to taste. Add this to the cream, and again mix. Mold tha Codfish info round or oval balls: then roll in the egg, which has been well beaten, and pass through the bread crumbs, patting gently, and lay them in a frying basket, it you have one, and sink into the boiling lard. Otherwise drop Into the boil- in^ lard, having tested the heat with a bit of bread. The balls must swim in the lard. When a golden brown, lift out the basket, or skim out the balls with a skimmer; drain well of all the fat by laying on a heated brown paper, and then serve ho: on a dish garnished with sprigs ot parsley. This quantity will make about a dozen and a half balls or croquettes. There is no difference between the preparation of the Cod- fish Ball and the Codfish Croquette, the only difference being in tne-iorm of molding, the croquette being oval or elongated, in cylindrical shapes, and the ball being molded round and a little flattened on top. Codjisli Dacalao, Baealao 4 la Vizcaina. 1 Pound of Salted Codfish. 1 Large Onion, Chopiied Fine. 1 Pint ot Rich Tomato Sauce. 2 Cloves of Garlic, Chopped Fine. Croutons, 1 Ued Pepper. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Olive Oil. Pi'pper to Taste. 6 Tomatoes. Thyme. Bay Leaf. Parsley. Soak the Codfish well overnight, and in the morning boil for about forty-five minutes, until very ten- der. Wlien you set it to boil, put the fish first in cold water. After it has boiled, scald again thorough- ly, and pick out all the bones and set away to cool. Then prepare a rich Tomato Sauce, according to the following directions: Take six large fresh tomatoes, or a half can of tomatoes, and add a heaping ta- blespoonful of butter, four sprigs of parsley, thyme and two bay leaves, all chopped very fine; add two chopped onions and a clove of garlic, chopped fine, and which has been fried in a little butter. Set the saucepan, with the sauce, into boiling water, and add pepper and Cayenne and a pinch of salt to taste. Stew very gently for about two hours or longer, it necessary. Then strain the sauce and make a rou.K with one tablespoonful ot butter and two of flour; stir and let it brown lightly, and stir in the sauce. Boil about tour minutes longer un- til rich and thick. Then fry the remaining large onion and clove of garlic, chopped very fine, in a gill of olive oil, or two tablespoonfuls of butter it the taste of the oil is dis- liked, and when it browns add this to the sauce and a red sweet pep- per, finely chopped. Cut about a doz- en Crotitons. In dice or diamond shapes, from the soft part ot the bread, and try in boiling lard. Heat a dish, put the Codfish into it, pour over the Tomato Sauce, border the dish with the fried CroQtons, and set in the oven, allowing it to bake ten or fifteen, minutes longer. The Spanish red peppers are the best tor this sauce. Black pepper may be added if desired. 71 SALT MACKBREIL. Du Maquereau. Salt Mackerel is either boiled or broiled, and either mechod of cook- ing according to the subjoined re- cipes makes a most palatable and delicately toothsome dish. Boilsd Salt Mackerel. Maquereau Bouilli. 2 Salt Mackerel. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Chopped Parsley and Sliced Lemou to Garnish. Soak the Mackerel overnight, and in the morning take out o( the wa- ter, wash thoroughly, taking off every portion of salt, and wash again. Have ready a deep pan of •boiling water; place the Mackerel within and let it boil ten or fifteen minutes until done, which can be known by the flesh beginning to part from the bones. Serve whole on a platter garnished with parsley. Pour over the Mackerel melted but- ter and chopped parsley, and bring to the table very hot. Mackerel boiled or broiled is a very nice breakfast dish on fast days. Serve with potatoes, boiled whole or made into croquettes. Broiled Mackerel. Maquereau GrillS. 2 Salt Mackerel. 1 Cup of Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, or a Cream Sauce. Sliced Lemon, Olives and Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. Soak the Mackerel and wash thor- oughly as directed above, only us- ing boiling water. Have ready some milk, seasoned well with black pep- per and soak the Mackerel in the milk until thoroughly impregnated. Take out and wipe dry with a towel. Then dredge the Mackerel with but- ter, and place between a double broiler, over a slow Are, broiling about fifteen or twenty minutes, th3 under side being allowed to broil first. When done, take off and pour over melted butter and chopped pars- ley; garnish the dish with sprigs of parsley, sliced lemons and olives, and serve hot. A Cream Sauce may be also served instead of the but- ter, and makes a very delicious dish. SAIiMOjV. Mayonnaise de Saumon. 1 Can of Salmon. 2 Heads of Crisp Lettuce. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sauce a la Mayonnaise. A Mayonnaise of Salmon is a very good luncheon dish, and is frequently served in New Orleans. To one can of Salmon allow two good sized heads of young lettuce. Make a bed of the crisp hearts of the leaves, and tear the other leaves into small pieces with a fork, making very del- icate shreds. Drain the oil from the can of Salmon, and separate the fish into flakes. Take a cupful of boil- ing milk and a tablespoonful of but- ter and two of flour, and Stir over the flre until quite smooth. Add to this a tablespoonful of chopped pars- ley and the Salmon. Season with pepper and salt, and let it cook about ten minutes. Set away to cool, and then place on the bed of lettuce leaves. Cover with a Sauce a la Mayonnaise (see recipe), and gar- nish nicely with sliced hard-boiled eggs, celery tips, etc., and serve. Salmon Salad. Saumon en Salade. 1 Can of Salmon. 1-3 the Quantity of Chopped Celery. 2 Hard-Boiled Kggs. Sliced Lemon. Olives. 1 Pickled Beet. A Plain French Dressing. Canned Salmon may be made into a delighful salad for luncheon or supper. Flake the salmon, heap into a salad bowl, and mix with chopped celery, using one-third of the latter in proportion to the quantity of salmon. Add a Plain French Dress- ing. (See recipe.) "When ready to serve, turn into a salad dish, on which you have arranged a crisp bed of lettuce. Garnish with sliced lemon, olives and hard-boiled eggs, and with one daintily sliced pickled beet. HERRINGS. j Des Harengs. The Salted Herrings, such as come to New Orleans, must first of all be soaked thoroughly overnight, or longer, to take away all salt. Then they are cleaned nicely and broiled and served with a cream sauce or drawn butter sauce, preferably the former. They are also cut into filets and eaten without further cooking or "Crfl," as we say here, and also as an hors d'oeuvre. ANCHOVY. Des Anchois. Anchovies are served as a prelimi- nary to the most aristocratic din- ners, being drained of the oil. which clings to them after being taken from the can. Three or four anch- ovies are then placed between deli- cate soda biscuit, and tied with a bit of ribbon in squares, with a dainty bow cut short in the center. The effect is very pretty. The anch- ovies are also mashed and placed be- tween the crackers, like a sandwich Either way is excellent and elegant. 72 Ancliovy Salad. Salade d'Anchois. This salad is a dainty disli for lunclieon or supper. Have an oval dish and arrange the anchovies, drained of oil, crosswise on a bed of crisp lettuce, or of chopped water- cress. Surround with a border of chopped whites of eggs and a simi- lar border of chopped watercresses, and pour over all a sour French Dressing. (See recipe.) Ancho- vies are used as an elegant hors d'oeuvre. CHAPTER XII. MEATS. Des Viandes. Meats are, of course, common to every clime and country, but not every people have the palatable and appetizing methods of preparation that have been handed down to the Creoles of Louisiana by their French and Spanish ancestors and so modi- fied and improved upon that it may be said that they have created a new school of cookery In the choice preparation and serving of beef, veal, mutton, pork and venison. Our "roties," or roasts, our methods of broiling, our delightful "ragouts," our famous "grillades," our unique "daubes," in a word, our dozen and one highly nutritious and eminently agreeable combinations of meats, with vegetables, and our unequaled manner of seasoning, have given to the Creole kitchen a fame that has been as lasting as well deserved. The Creoles have discovered that almost any portion of the beef from the head to the tail may be deli- cately and temptingly prepared, so as to please even the most fastidious palates. They have reduced the sci- ence of cooking meats to a practical system that works the most benefi- cial effects in the homes of the poor, and which enables the family of moderate means to live not only eco- nomically, but with as much real ease and luxury, even as the wealthy classes. The secret of cooking meat proper- ly, of course, lies much in the sea- soning- and the relative time ot cook- ing different varieties; but much in- deed, everything depends upon the choice of the meat. The following Guides In Cliooslng Meat are given, so that the housekeeper may make no mistake in this impor- tant choice of the quality of meat which she selects for her family: Beef, when young, has a fine, open grain and good red color. The fatty part should be a yellowish white, for, when very yellow the meat is seldom of the best. Beef in which the fat is hard and skinny and the lean meat a deep red, with coarse fibers, is of an inferior quality; when the meat is old, it can be told by a line of horny textures running through the meat of the ribs. The lean on the cut surface shoilld show a deep purplish red tint, and the beef should be marbled with fat, which shows the animals have been well fed. In Mutton the cut surface should have the same purplish tint, but should be quite even in hue through- out. The color of the muscle should be neither too pale nor too dark. If pale and moist, it indicates that the animal was young or diseased; and if dark and livid, it shows that In all probability the animal was slaughtered , but died with the blood in it. Both muscle and fat should be elastic yet firm to the touch, not moist or sodden, and the fat should be free from blood specks. While the raw fat of beef should be of a light yellow color,, like that of suet, the fat of mutton should be white. The quality of meat depends la;rgely upon the free intermixture of streaks of fat with muscular fiber. The muscular fibers should not be large or coarse,' nor should there be any gummy or purple-looking fluid in the cellular tissues. The surface of good meat should be perfectly • dry, and even the cut surface should scarcely wet the finger. The muscular fiber of beef in poor condition or wasting from disease is pale in color, and a quantity of watery fat of bad colCr is mixed up with it. The meat itself is wet, fiabby and inelastic and pits when the point of the finger is pressed ag£Lthst it: Such meat, it need hard- ly be said, is unfit (or human food. The odor of good meat should be slight and not by any means disa- greeable. An unpleasant odor indi- cates that putrefaction has begun or that the meat is diseased. A very good plan to detect any unpleasant- ness of odor is to thrust a clean knife into the flesh. If any disagreeable odor clings, the meat is unfit for use. The internal parts, that are so gen- erally used in cooking, such as the heart, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, should have no unpleasant smell and must be free from spots of conges- tion or bruises. As these parts de- compose much more rapidly than the flesh of the carcass, they should not be kept long before being cooked, and, when cooked, should not be sub- jected to a very strong or prolonged heat, because it makes them hard and indigestible. The amount of bone in meat varies considerably, but, on the average, it is not less than 8 per cent. Iii shins and legs of beef, it amounts to one- third, and sometimes to one-half the total weight, while in the neck and brisket it amounts to about 10 per cent. The most economical parts are the round and thick flank, then the. sticking pieee and- brisket, and lastly the leg. In mutton and pork the leg is the most profitable, and then the shoulder. Sheep heads make excellent broth, and ox tail a veiy good soup, but both require longer time to extract the nutriment wholly. If boiled for eight hours, the head of the ox will yield about one fourth of its weight in gelatine, and the cheek will fur- nish nearly four pounds of good meat. Shins of beef malfa excellent soup, but, like the ox head, require long-er boiling; Even bones, when stripped of the meat, contain a con- siderable amount of fat and nitro- genous matter, so that six pounds of bones, when broken up and boiled for nine hours, will yield an amount of nitrogen equal to that contained in a pound of meat and twice as much fat. The old Creole cooks always ask the butcher to throw in some bones (cracked) when they purchase meat for soup. Mutton must be chosen for the firmness and fineness of the grain, its color and the firm, white fat. Good mutton is generally small. Lamb that has been killed too long can be detected by examination of the veins on the neck. If these are bluish, then the meat is fresh;, if greenish, the meat is stale. In the hind quarter the point to exam- ine is the knuckle, which is not firm when the meat is not perfectly fresh. The best veal is very firm and of a pinkish white. Never purchase veal that has a bluish tinge. The veal should not be less than six weeks old, nor more than six months. The best season for veal is from April to October; from that time till the next April the meat is not very good and generally stringy. Like all young meats it spoils very quickly, espe- cially in our climate. "Veal should always be well cooked. It furnishes an endelss variety of dishes. Mutton is divided into the fore and hind quarters, and these are subdivided into the leg and the loin. The fore quarter is subdivided into the shoulder, breast and neck. A saddle of mutton is two loins. The fatter the mutton the more tender the lean parts, but the mutton must never be overgrown nor over-fat. The leg, shoulder and loins of mutton make nice roasting pieces. The breast and neck are good for soups and stews. The loins are also cut into French chops and loin chops. Pork, in every form, is indiges- tible, and should never be eaten by persons of weak digestion, by young children, nor by the old and feeble. In New Orleans it should only be eaten between December and April, when the weather is very cold; never in summer or late spring and au- tumn. Pork should always be thor- oughly cooked. In selecting pork be guided by the grain of the meat. It should always be of a fine grain and the skin smooth. The lean must be of a pale red color, the fat white and the skin smooth and clear. If the flesh is soft, and if the fat is of a yellowish white, or full of small kernels, reject the meat, as it is sure- ly diseased and unfit for food. Pork is divided into the leg, shoul- der, the chine, the spare ribs, mid- dlings, head and feet. The best parts for roasting are the loins and legs. But the nicest roast is always the sucking pig or "cochon de lait," as the Creoles call it. The sucking pig should be no more than four or five weeks old and not less, and should always be roasted the day after it is killed. Bacon differs from ha,m and meat in the relatively large proportions of fat and the small proportion of water. It Is a great favorite with all classes on account of its fiavor. its facilities for cooking, the many com- binations into which it enters in preparation of delicate dishes, and because it is easily kept and always handy.- As it is rich in carbona- ceous food, it forms a suitable ad- junct to substances which are rich rabbits, eggs, beans, peas, cabbage, turnips and lentils. Its flivoring 74 qualities can make a dish of the homeliest vegetables palatable as well as nutritious. With these suggestions as to choosing meat and the relative value of food properties they contain, the Picayune vi'ill lay down the following Unfailing Rule Which the Creoles Follow in cooking meats; Always remember that Beef and Mutton must be cooked rare, and Pork and Veal well done. Beet should always be roasted, broiled or smothered. Mutton may be roasted, broiled boiled or stewed. Veal may be roasted, stewed, smothered or fried, when cut into chops. Pork is always roasted or fried. Ham is broiled, boiled or fried. Bacon is broiled, fried or boiled, the latter when cooked with ve.ge- tables. Venison is roasted or made into "ragout," like Beef a. la Mode, and the cutlets are broiled. The meat of venison should be of fine grain and well covered with fat. If the venison is very young, the hoofs are but slightly opened; if old, the hoofs stand wide apart. With this preliminary the Pica- yune will now present the various Creole forms of preparing meats. BEEF. Du Boeuf. Roast Beef. Boeuf Roti. The first four ribs of the beef are always the best for a roast. The tenderloin lies here, and two good ribs or a "full cut," as the butchers term it, should be enough to mak2 a fine roast for a family of six. Al- ways remember that if the roast IS cut too thin, the Juices dry too rapidly and the exquisite flavor is gone. After the ribs come the sir- loin and the spine bone as seconl- and third choice. Have the butcher skewer the roast so that it will have a nice shape when it comes on the table and will retain all the Juice of the beef. Leave the bones in the -roast, as the meat will be far sweeter than when taken out. Rub the meat well with salt and p.epper dredge slightly with lard arid set in a hot oven. The heat of the oven at once - coagulates the blood and prevents it from escaping, thus ren- dering the meat nutritious. Every now and then baste the beef with Its own Juices and let it cook add- ing ho water, as suflieient fat runs from the beef to baste with. Allow fifteen minutes to every pound of meat if one likes the meat rare otherwise allow twenty minutes. But the Creoles always roast beef rare. To ascertain the desired state, occa- sionally stick a needle into the beef. If the blood spurts up, the meat is ready to serve, and, cooked to this point, is a most nutritious dish. Watch carefully and do not let it pass this stage. Serve on a dish in its own gravy. The practice of making a gravy of flour, etc., for roast beef is condemned by the best ethics of Creole cookery. PUct of Beef I..arded. Filet de Boeuf PiquS. ■ 1 Filet of Beef. Lard Sufflcient to Lard Thoroughly. 1 Small Onloa. 1 Bay Leaf. 4 Cloves, if desired. I'A Tablespoonfuls of ■ Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Glace. (See receipt.) 1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine (or Water). Salt and Pepper to Taste. Trim the filet nicely, removing the outer muscular skin. Lard the fllet well, using larding needles. The lard must be very thin, like a shoestring. The larding is done by filling the needles with the lard and pushing them through the filet as far as they will go. If the needles are long enough, thej' will come out on llie other side of the filet, leaving the lard within. Repeat this process all down the center and along the sides -of 'the fllet, about an inch apart, and have the rows neat and even. If you have not a larding needle, make incisions with a knife, and push the lard in with your finger, but the fllet is never as Juicy and tender, nor does it look so clean and even when baked. When well larded, dredge well with salt and pepper, rubbing this thoroughly into the beef.. Cut up one small onion, one bay leaf, and mash four cloves, and place in the bottom of the baking pan. Lay the larded filet on this bed, the larded side being uppermost. Put small bits of butter equal to a half table- spoonful on top, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. This dish is always' eaten rare. To ascertain If sufliciently done, stick a fork into the fllet; if the blood bubbles out, it is ready to serve. The meat when done is always spongy and elastic to the touch. In the meantime, prepare the fol- lowing brown sauce: Take one ta- blespoonful of butter and one of Glace (see recipe under chapter "Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc."), and three of water; rub smoothly and melt in a saucepan, stirring con- stantly to prevent burning. When brown, add one glass of Madeira or Sherry wine and add a half cup of water. Season well with salt and pepper. Pour over the filet, which must be placed in a hot dish, and serve. 75 Fllet of Beef linrilecl WltU Mush- roonia. Filet de Boeuf PiquS aux Cham- pignons. 1 Filet of Beef. ^ Can of Mushrooms. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Trim and lard the beef according to the directions given in the above recipe, and balce in the same man- ner — rare. When it has cooked for a half hour In a quick oven, it vifill be done. Then make a sauce as fol- lows: Take one tablespoonful of but- ter and one of Glace and three of water; melt the butter and add the Glace, browning nicely without burn- ing, and stirring constantly. When brown 'add one glass of Madeira or, Sherry wine, if desired, and one-half pint of water. Season well with salt and pepper. Then add a half can of mushrooms, chopped very fine. Stir well and let it boil about ten min- utes, so as not to be too thick nor yet too thin. The intelligent cook will judge by tasting to see that it is seasoned properly. Place the fllet in a hot dish and pour the sauce over and serve hot. Fllet of Beef With Truffles. Filet de Boeuf PiquS aux Trutfes ou a. la PSrigeux. 1 Fllet of Beet. Vs, Can of Truffles. J6 Glass of Sherry. 1 Pint of Broth or Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Proceed in the same manner as in the preparation of Filet of Beef Larded. When it has baked for a half hour, make a sauce as follows: One tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of Glace (see recipe under chapter "Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.") and add a half wineglass of Sherry and one pint of broth or water. Let it boil slowly for ten minutes, ani add one-half can of truffles, chopped very fine, if a, la Pgrigeux; if aux truftes, cut in dice.. Let.thesauce boil slowly twenty minutes longer, and then pour over the fllet, serving hot. Truffles are always an expensive dish and quite above the means of the great majority of people. Ths dish should never be attempted by a family who wishes to live economi- cally. Broiled Beefetcak. Filet de Boeuf GrillS. 3 Pounds of Steak for Broiling Purf>oscs. 1 TahlesDoonful ot Butter. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Chopped Parsley and Lettuce Leaves to Garnish. Salt and Pepper to Taste. The cut known as the "Porterhouse Steak," is unquestionably the best for broiling. The next in order is the sirloin, where there are always choice cuts, but the entire sirloin is not profitable for broiling and the coarse ends may be used in making stews, gumbos, etc. The rib steak is very- nutritious, as also the round, but the Creoles never broil these. There is an art in broiling a beefsteak proper- ly, and the Creoles have certainly at- tained this in its perfection. The broiler in a well-regulated house- hold is always put on a furnace ot hot charcoals in preference to the open front of the stove. The coals not only render the meat free from any deleterious effects, should, by chance, the meat not be from a per- fectly healthy animal, but the broil- ing over the coals gives the meat a flavor one vainly seeks otherwise. Dredge the meat well witli salt and pepper and then brush lightly with butter. Place it on the hot gridiron and let it 'broil quickly for four min- utes; then turn on the other side fur four minutes longer. When done take off, place in a hot dish, butter nicely and sprinkle chopped parsley over, and the juice of a lemon, and serve immediately. The great secret of good broiling lies in the proper fire, the clean broiler, the right length, of time, the quality of the steak, which should never be tough, and lastly and not the least important of all, eating the steak directly after it comes from the coals. Smothered Beefsteak, Filet BraisS. Braising or smothering meat is a mode of cooking little understood by the Americans, but which has been brought by the Creoles" to a high state of perfection. By this pro- cess the meat is just covered and no more, with a little water, or with a strong broth made from animal stock or the juices of vegetables. The pot is covered- with a closely-fitting lid and is put on a slow flre and allowed to simmer slowly for two or three hours, just short of the boiling point. By this slow process of cook- ing, tough meats are rendered juicy, tender and very agreeable to the palate, while the covered pot enables the 'meat to retain all its flavor. The great secret in smothering meat is to let it cook very slowly, simmering, however, all the time, so that the heat may thoroughly penetrate and render tender and juicy the coarse fiber of the meat. When tender, put the beefsteak into a platter, cover with the onions and gravy, and you will have a delicious and delicately flavored dish. 70 Ueefsteak Smothered in Onions. Filet BraisS aux Ognons. 3 Pounds of Round Steak. 6 Onions, sliced fine. 1 Tablespooutul of Lavd. 1 Tablespoontal of Tlour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 2 Sprigs each of Tli.vme and Bay Leaf. H Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Clove ot Garlic. 1 Pint of Water. Pepper and Salt to Taste. Beat the round steak well with the rolling- pin or steak hammer; CTit off the outer skin and- press the mea-t back into shape. Place the tahle- spoonful of lard in the deep frying pan and let it melt. Then lay in the sliced onions, and over these the beefsteak, which has been well sea- soned with salt and pepper and dredgred with the flour. Cover close- ly. Let it simmer over a hot fire for a few minutes anl then turn the steak on the other side. After three rrinutes, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Turn the steak, letting the flour brown well, and keep the pot closely cov- ered. When brown pour over one cup of water, or a pint, which will be sufBcient to cover the meat. Bring this to a brisk boil and set the pot back where it can simmer gently for about t^vo hours. Filets of beef may be smothered in the same manner, only these will re- quire no beating with the steak ham- mer. Ftlct of Beef Smolhered Witli mushroom^ or Truffles. Filet de Boeuf Brais6 aux Champign- ons, ou aux Truffes. 1 Filet of Beef. 1 Can of Mushrooms or % Can of Trufflea. G Onions, sliced fine. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 2 Sprigs each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Pint of Hot Water. Salt,' Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Smother the beef, using a filet for this delicious dish according to the recipe given for Smothered Beefsteak. After it has cooked about a half hour add one can of mushrooms and let it continue to simmer gently for an hour and a half longer. When ready to serve, add, if possible, a gill or a small wineglass of Sherry or White Wine; boil ten minutes longer. Put the filet in a dish, place the mush- rooms over and around as a garnish, pour over the sauce and serve. If truffles are. used instead ot the mushrooms, add one-halt can and proceed in exactly the same manner as when using the mushrooms. Filet of Beef "W'ltli Tomatoes. Filet de Boeut BraisS aux Tomates. 1. Filet of Beef. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. C Onions, sliced fine. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 2 Sprigs each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. % Can of Tomatoes or G Large Fresh Ones. 1 Pint of Hot Water. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Smother the filet in exactly the same manner as already described. When cooked for about a halt hour, add one-half can of tomatoes and their Juice, or six large fresh toma- toes sliced in their juice. Let the m^ixture simm.er for an hour and a half longer, season well and serve, pouring the gravy over the filet. Filet of Beef Wltli Stuffed Tomatoes. Filet BraisS aux Tomates Farcies. 1 Filet of Be6f. 1 Dozen Uniform-Sized Tomatoes. 1 Cup of Mushrooms. 1 Clove of Garlic. % Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Smother the filet according to the directions given above, adding two chopped tomatoes to the sauce. Take the tomatoes an-d cut off the stem end, scoop out the soft inside, being careful to retain the skins in proper shape. Then take a half cup of mushrooms, one-half cup ot stale bread crumbs, whi.ch have been wet and squeezed, one clove ot garlic, chopped very fine, and one grated on- ion, a sprig ot chopped parsley. Chop the mushrooms fine, place a table- spoonful ot butter into a trying pan, and, when melted, add the bread crumbs which have been seasoned with salt and pepper and Cayenne, and mixed thoroughly Tvith the chopped onion or garlic and the par- sley. When these begin to fry, add the chopped mushrooms, stirring constantly for about five or eight minutes. Serve with Stuffed Toma- toes (see recipe.) Beef a la Mode. Daube. 5 Pounds of the Uump or thft Round of the Beef. 44 Pound of Salt Fat. Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Clove ot Garlic. 1 Glass of Sherry, Madeira or Claret (It Desired.) Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 2 Bay Leaves. Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. Cut the tat ot the salt meat into thin shreds. Chop the onion and bay leaf very fine, as also the garlic, thyme and cloves. Rub the shreds well with s^lt and pepper. Take the rump of beef and lard thickly by making- incisions about tliree or four inches in lengtli and inserting the pieces of salt fat and spices, onion and tliyme and garlic, mixed thpr- ougiily. Take two large onions and cut into quarters and put in a sauce- pan with one tablespoonful of lard. Let the slices brown and then lay on top the rump of beef, well lardeJ. Cover closely and let it simmer very slowly till well browned. Then add the chopped bay leaf and parsley. When brown add five carrots cut into squares of an inch, and two turnips, cut in the same manner, and two large onions, chopped fine. Let the whole brown, keeping well covered, and cooking slowly over a slow but- regular Are. Be always careful to keep the cover very tight on the pot. When it has simmered about ten minutes, turn the daube on the other- side, cover closely and let it sim- mer ten minutes more. Then cover with sufficient boiling water to cover the daube; or, better still, if yoj have it, use instead of the water, boiling "consommS" or "pot-au-teu," and, if possible, a glass of Sherry or Madeira wine; or, if you have neither of these, which are always to be preferred in cooking meats, a glass of good Claret. Season ac- cording to taste with salt, Cayenne and black pepper. Cover -the pot tight and set it back on the stove, letting it smother slowly for about three hours, or until tender. Serve hot or cold. Cold Daabe & la Creole. Daube Froide a. la CrSole. This is one of the most excellent dishes made by the Creoles, and is always a great standby for luncheons in winter. Take 3 Pounds of the Rump or Rouud of the Beef. 2 Pounds of Veal Kurap. 2 Pips' Feet. Vi Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 5 Large Ouious. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Glass of Sherry. 3 Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll well in Cayenne and black pepper. Chop finely several sprigs of thyme and three bay leaves, one clove of garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and mash well three cloves and six all- spice. Roll the strips of salt meat, which must be about three inches in length and one-half inch thick, in this. Make incision into the rump of meat and force in the strips of fat meat and the spices. Then rub the whole well with salt and pepper, judging according to taste, and pro- ceed to cook according to the re- cipe for Beef a. la Mode. Let the Daube cook about four hours when you intend to serve it cold. In the meantime, in another pot, place a veal steak of about two pounds, and two ' pigs' feet. Sea- son well with salt and pepper and Cayenne, and cover well with four quarts of water, and let them boil. Add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, one-half clove of garlic and one onion, all minced very fine, ana two cloves mashed into almost a jelly, and one glass of Sherry or Ma- deira wine. Let these boil well with the veal and pigs' feet. Then, when the veal and pigs' feet are cooked very tender, take them out of the pot and mince the meat of each very fine; return to the sauce, and again season highly, according to taste, for the flavor depends upon the piquant seasoning. After the daube. has cooked four or five hours, take off the stove and pour over the sauce and set all in a cool place. Serve the next day — cold, cutting into thin slices. It will all have formed a jelly that is most delicious and appe- tizing. Daube Froide a la Crfiole has only to be tried once to be repeated. It is a standing dish for luncheon in every Creole home during the winter, for it is never essayed in summer, owing to the heated weather that would prevent the jellying of the beef. Even when put in an ice box it is not the same as when made in winter. It is a dish that may be served with little cost to the most fastidious. Beef Marine. Eoeuf Maring. 4 Pounds of Beef, from the Round or Shoulder. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Onion. 1 Lemon. 1 Taljlespoonful of Vinegar. % Teaspoonful eacli of Ground Cloves, Mace and Allspice. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. The "brisket" of the -beef is ex- cellent for this, as also the "breast plate." Mix the spices, salt and pep- per thoroughly and rub well into both sides of the beef. Chop the on- ions fine, and cover the meat with them. Then mix the oil and vinegar and the juice of one lemon, and pour this over the meat. Set it in tlie ice box, or a cool place, and let it stand overnight. Then put it into the stewpan, and be careful to retain all the juices of the spices. Set on the fire and let it simmer ten minutes, adding the bay leaves, chopped very fine. Then add a tablespoonful of flouf, rolled smoothly in a half tea- spoonful of butter or, lard, melted. Let this brown, and then half cover the meat with boiling water, using good judgment. Cover closely and set on the oven, letting the beef cook two hours, and turning once, so that both sides may be well pene- trated by the heat. Serve on a hot dish, pouring the gravy over. This is a very old-fashioned dish. FrIeA SZeat, La Viande Prite. Frying among the Creoles Is done in several ways. The first and the method most generally adopted in households is t,o put a tablespoonful of lard or an ounce, as the quantity of meat to cook may seem to require, into a frying pan. "When the lard has reached the boiling point lay in the meat and cook first on one side then on the other to a nice brown. The second method is that in use among the Creole chefs, restaura- teurs, and in the homes of the wealthier classes; the meat is com- pletely immersed in the boiling lard as in trying fish or doughnuts. The intense heat quickly closes up the pores of the meat, and a brcn^n crust is formed; the heat of the lard should be such that a piece of bread dropped into it becomes brown in- stantly. The lard should never be smoking. This ruins the meat and gives a burnt fiavor. As soon as it begins to smoke remove the frying pan to the side of the stove, but still keep it at the boiling point. The half-frying method mentioned above is, however, the one most generally in use, and if followed properly ex- cellent results are obtained; indeed, many Creole chefs prefer it. There is another method that is very gene- rally used, and which'imparts a flavor similar to that of broiled meat. This is to lay the meat in a thick-bottomed frying pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Brown the meat quickly first on one side and then on the other; lay in a hot platter and season as you would broiled meat. In large families where there is a great deal of cooking required, the economical housewife will carefully save all the drippings and the fat remnants of beef, mutton and pork. She will occasionally get a pound or two of suet from the market. These drippings or skimmings may be clar- ified by boiling them in hot water about twice a week. When the fat is thoroughly melted, strain it with the water and set aside to cool. After a while the hard fat that has been formed on top of the water may be lifted out just as you would a cake of anything; then scrape off all the dark particles from the bottom and melt the fat over again. While it is still very hot strain it into _ a clean stone jar or tin pail and it "is ready for use in cooking. Refined cotton seed oil and butter oil are now being adopted by many profes- sional cooks and in households for culinary purposes. Olive oil has al- • ways been in use for this purpose among the Creoles, and is held as a very delicate medium for frying. But many prefer the beef fat or suet for frying, considering it both whole- some and digestible, and more deli- cate than olive oil or the fat of pork. But the careful housekeeper will al- ways preserve all odds and ends of fat of beef, mutton or pork, and the drippings after frying anything. Set this aside until the fat settles and cools, then pour oft carefully so as to clear from the sediment that always settles at the bottom and clarify as above. Fried Meat. Grillade. Our "Grillades, " or Pried Meat k la CrSole are famous, relishable and most digestible dishes, no matter what scientists may say about the non-advisability of eating fried meat. The many octogenarians who walk our streets, and who have been prac- tically raised on "Grillades," for it is a daily dish among the Creoles, are the best refutation of the outcry that is made in the North and West against fried meat. The great truth is that the Creoles know how to fry meat. The round of the meat is al- v.-ays" selected for Grillades, and one steak will serve six persons. The steak is cut into pieces of about six or eight squares and each piece is callea a "grillade." Season well with salt and pepper, rubbing these into the meat thoroughly and letting it soak well into the fibres. Have ready a hot pan, and place within a table- spoonful of lard, and, when hot, a sliced onion and one clove of garlic, cliopped very fine. Let this brown, and then add one chopped tomato. Place the Grillades in this, letting them soak thoroughly. Cover with a tight cover, and set back, letting them fry slowly, so as to absorb all the lard and juices. Serve on a hot dish, when brown, -with garnishes of parsley. This is the recipe for mak- ing Grillades without gravy. Some aUo fry simply in the boiling lard, using only a half tablespoonful, and letting it soak and absorb thorough- ly after being well seasoned. This is a m,-.tter of taste. Grillades are a favorite dish among the poorer classes of Creoles, espe- cially, being served not only for breakfast, but also at dinner, in the , latter instance with gravy and a dish of red beans and boiled rice. Grillades Witli Gravy. Grillades a. la Sauce. 1 Rouua Steak. 1 Tomato. 1 Large Onion. Salt and Pepper. Select a nice round steak and beat well. Cut into grillades of about four inches square and season highly with salt and pepper and Cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the 79 trying pan, and when it heats, add a chopped^ onion-; one' clave ol ga-rlio; and as these brown, add one table- spoonful of flour, making a Brown Roux. (See recipe under chapter "Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") Then add two tomatoes, sliced, with their juices, and as this browns lay the grillades upon it. Cover closely, and as, it browns on one side, turn on the other. Then add a half tablespoon- ful of vinegar and a cup of water. Stir well and set back on the stove and let it simmer slowly for about a half hour. This is very nice served with hominy at breakfast, or with red or white beans and boiled rice at dinner. Again, the Grillades k la Sauce are made by frying the grillades, after seasoning well, simply in half a tablespoonful of boiling lard. The lard must always be boiling, so that the meat juices may at once coagu- late. After they are browned nicely on both sides, take the grillades out of the frying pan and set in a hot, dish over a pot of boiling water and cover. Have an onion chopped fine, ■ put half a tablespoonful of lard into the frying pan, stirring well to detach all particles of meat that may have adhered. Then add a chopped onion and brown, and a tablespoonful of flour or Glace (see recipe under chapter "Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") and let this brown. Pour in a tablespoonful of vinegar and a cup of water, season well with salt, pepper and Cayenne, and let it boil till it reaches a right consist- ency, which will be in about ten minutes. Pour over the grillades, and serve. Grillades Breaded. Grillades PanSes. 1 Round of Veal. , 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Beaten Egg. Vi Cup of Bread Crumbs. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. The round of the veal is always used for this. Cut the veal into squares of about four inches; season well with salt, pepper and Cayenne. Beat an egg well and take each gril- lade and soak it well in the egg, and then roll in bread crumbs grated. Have ready a pan of boiling grease, sufficient for the grillades to swim in it; fry to a nice brown and serve very hot. Lieft-Over Meat, Left-over meat may be utilized in many delightful ways, such as "Bou- lettes,"' "Boulards," "Croquettes," "Rissoles," "iVEeat Soufllfi" and va- rious forms of Hash. The following are the forms of preparation in use among the Creoles: Meat Balls. Boulettes. 1 Pound of Raw or Left-Over Meat. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Onion. Tlie Juice of a Lemon. Salt, Pepper and Caj-enne to Taste. Take one pound of steak from the upper round and mince and chop very fine. Add to it one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one onion (well grated), one tablespoonful of melted butter, and mixed salt, black pepper and Cayenne, seasoning highly; mix all thoroughly. Porm the meat into balls, using about two tablespoon- fuls for each, which will allow six or eight balls or boulettes. Have ready a deep frying pan of lard, suf- ficient for the boulettes to swim and fry to a nice brown. Take out and drain of all grease, place on a hot platter and garnish with fried pars- ley, and serve very hot. The same directions may be used in making croquettes of meat, only the latter are formed into cylindrical shapes. If fried in butter, the bou- lettes or croquettes are very deli- cious, but they are nice either way if well seasoned, for tlieir success de- pends upon tills. Itleat Balls. Boulards. Seieral Slices of Meat (Raw or Cold Coolsed). 1 Tomato. 1 Onion. i Carrot. 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Stalli of Celery. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. * % Cup of Cracker Crumbs. A Pinch of Ginger. Ml Cup of Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Select slices of beef cut very thin from the round of the cross rib. Take one tomato, one onion, one carrot, a stalk of celery, several sprigs of par- sley, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, three hard-boiled eggs, and chop very fine. Mix this with one tablespoonful of butter, a half cup of cracker crumbs and a pinch of ginger. Salt and pepper to taste. Take each slice of meat, and make a roll of it, folding the dressing within and folding over the edges that it may be retained. Tie each with thin twine. Have boil- ing lard or suet on the Are, drop in the' boulards rolled in bread crumbs, set them back on the stove, cover well, and let them simmer gently for about two hours, adding a half cup of water to prevent scorching. Keep the pot covered. After two hours, drain the boulards well by laying them on heated brown paper; place them in a hot dish, garnish it with sliced hard-boiled eggs, parsley and olives, and serve. Bach boulard should be about the size of an, egg. 80 L,eft-Over Meat. Rissoles. i Ounces of Cold Hoast Beef or Veal, or Left-Over Meat of any Kind. 2 Ounces of Stale Broad. Wet. and Squeezed Thoroughly. ^^ Teaspoonful of Minced Parsley. 1^ Ounce of Flour. 1V4 Tablespoonluls of Milk or Water. ^ Teaspoonful Each of Salt and Black Pepper. A Dash or Cayenne. 1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine, With Sprigs of Parsley and Thyme. Mince the meat finely ana season well. Mix the ingredients thoroughly with it, adding, if you have it, mince 1 Chaurice or sausage meat, or a little cold ham minced. Form it into balls, using two tablespoonfuls for each ball. Brush lightly with milk, toss in a little flour, pat to get off all su- perfluous flour, and brown, nicely in boiling lard. Drain off all lard and serve on a platter, garnished with parsley sprigs. Meat Souillf. Souffle de Boeut. 1 Cup of Cold Meat. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Batter. 2 Tablespoonluls of Flour. 1 Cup of Cold Milk. 2 £:ggs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put two level tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, and when it is hot add two ta-b,lesp6onfuls of flour, rubbing smoothly and letting it brown. Then add gradually one cup of cold milk. Stir this until it boils. Add one-half teaspoonful of salt; a little pepper and one cupful of chopped meat, or fowl, that has been left over. When' this comes to a boil, add the yolk of two beaten eggs. Let it cook a moment longer and set to cool. Then beat the whites of the eggs and when the meat mix- ture is cold, fold them in carefully. Turn this into a buttered dish anl bake in a moderate oven twenty min- utes. Serve as soon as removed from the flre. A little grated nut- meg is a great addition. Beefsteak Pie. Vol-du-Vent de Boeuf. 1 Quart of Cold Cooked Meat. 2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon. 1 Tablcspoonful of Butter. % Dozen Potatoes. Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Make a nice pie crust. (See plain Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, and bake in the oven. Cut the meat very fine, into dice, and season well, rubbing with the minced thyme, par- sley, bay leaf, and salt and pepper. Stew the meat as in Ragout de Veau a, la Bourgeoise. Place in the pan. Dot the top with bits of butter, and place over all a layer of pie crust, decorating the edges nicelj-. Bake to a nice brown. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked, with any left-over sauce spread over the slices. Potted Beef. Terrine de Boeuf. 2 Rounds of Beef. 1 Slice of Suet (Gros de Boeuf). % Can Mushrooms. 4 Yolks of Eggs. 1 Dozen Allspice. 4 Cloves. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. 1 Glass of Brandy. Chop the slices of beef very fine with the suet, and season with the mashed spices, the herbs, minced very fine, and mix thoroughly with the beaten yolks of the eggs. Pour over all the brandy and mix. Line the bottom of the baking pan with strips of lean bacon and dot of beef on top with bits of butter. Bake for two hours in a quick oven. HASH. Hachis. 1 Quart of Cold Meat. 1 Onion. 1 Pint of Chopped Potatoes (Uncooked). 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Vt of a Clovi of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonf ul of Butter . oi Lard. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Take the remains, of cold roast, stew, bouilli, steaks or fowl, and mince very fine. To every quart of m.eat allow one onion, a quarter of a clove of garlic, chopped fine, and one pint of choppe3 (uncooked) pota- toes, and two hard-boiled eg':js, choped fine. Mix all this with the minced meat, add salt, pepper and Cayenne to taste; put into a stew pan with a tablespoonful of butter or lard, and let it simmer gently. After ten minutes add a half pint of hot water. Lut it cook ten min- utes longer and serve. The egg may be omitted. Dry OT Baked Hcsb. Hachis Sec. 1 Pint of Chopped Meat, Left-Over. % Pint of Water, or Left-Over Broti 1 Pint of Cooked Chopped Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Parsley. Chop and mince the meat very fine. Chop the potatoes fine, or in square inch pieces.. Mince the parsley, bay leaf, onion and garlic fine; mix all together with the meat and potatoes and season highly with pepper and. Cayenne, salting to taste. Add the tablespoonful of butter and bake in a moderate oven for about one hour. HasU en Toast. Hachis sur Canap§s. I Quart of Cold Meat. 1 Pint of Boiling Water or Milk 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of ilour. Salt and Tspper to Taste. Cut the left-over roast, bouilli or- 81 steak into small squares. To each \ Dint of these little squares allow one \tablespoonful of butter, one table- spoonful of flour and a half pint of toiling water. Put the butter into a\frying pan, and as it melts add the flour, being careful not to let it burn. When browned add the water, or, preferably, milk, and stir until it begins to boil. Then add the hashed and seasoned meat, and season again to taste. Set the hash on a moderate fire and let it simmer for fifteen minutes. In the meantime, toast slices of bread and butter them. Set them in a hot dish, spread each slice with the hash very thickly and pour the sauce over and serve. The hash may be baked and spread on the toast ana served with ^ sauce k I'EspagnoIe. (See recipe.) Corn Beef. Boeut au Mi-Sel. 3 Pounds of Corned Beef. 2 Carrots. 2 Turnips. 1 Stalk of Celery. 2 Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. The best out for this is the lower round of the beef, which Is perfectly free from bone. Put the corn beef on to boil in a large pot of cold water. The pot should be well covered. When it begins boiling well, set it back to cook gently, and allow twenty- five minutes to each pound of beef. When within two hours of being cooked, add two carrots, two tur- nips, a stalk of celery, two onions, one clove of garlic, chopped fine, and let these boil with the beef. Serve with the vegetables ranged whole around the dish. Corn beef is also served with cabbage, but never boil the cabbage in the beef as both w^ill become indigestible. It should be as tender as a spring chicken when done. Corn Beef Hash. Ha^jhis de Boeuf au Mi-Sel. 1 Pint of Corn Beet. Cooked, and 1 Pint of Left-Over Potatoes. 1 Grated Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1" Cup of Broth or Water. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Mix the meat thoroughly after min- cing fine together with the chopped potatoes. Grate the onion and a half clove of garlic if desired, and chop the herbs fine and mix thor- oughly with the beef, seasoning high- ly. Put the butter into the frying pan, add the meat and the broth or ■water ,and stir constantly till it toils. Spread, after it has cooked for about twenty minutes on slices of buttered toast. Pour over the gravy and garnish with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. Breaded On. Tail.-*. Queues de Boeuf PanScs. ■ 2 Ox Tails. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 3 Sprigs of Chopped Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Ess. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Tasto. Wash the tails and out them at the Joints; then cut again, into Uvo pieces of about four inches in length. Have a pot of boiling' water; season this well v/ith chopped parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and salt and pepper and Cayenne to taste. Boil the ox tails til tender; when done, remove from the fire and let them cool in the water in which they were boiled. Beat an egg well, roll tlie bits of tail in the egg, and then roll in grated bread crumbs. Drop into a pot of boiling grease and fry to a golden brown. Take out and drain and serve with a Sauce a. la Tartare, Ravigotte, Tomato, or any sauce. (See recipe.) Ox Tails & la Bonrgeolse. Queue de- Boeuf a. la Bourgeoise. 2 Ox Tails. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Turnip. % Can of Green Peas. ^4 Inch of Ham. -1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Sprisa of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. ] Pint of Consomme or Boiling Water, ' 1 Glass of Sherry Wine or Water. Cut tlie ox tails into pieces of three or four inches in length. Chop- two onions fine, and put the whole- into a saucepan with a tablespoonful tif butter. Let them brown a little- an'd add two large carrots, cut intO' dice, and one turnip cut the same- way. Brown these with the ox tails. Add one-half inch of ham, well chopped and let it brown, and then add two sprigs of thyme and one bay leaf and one clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Let these ingred- ients all brown about two minutes over a hot fire. Then add one glass of Sherry wine or water. Let all brown t"wo minutes longer, and add one pint of consommS or boiling wa- ter. Season again to taste, and add a half can of green peas. Let all boil until the ox tails are tender to the touch, and serve hot. Broiled KidiEcys. Brochettes de Rognons. 3 Kidneys. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Lemon Juice. Chopped Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. The kidneys must, first of all, be perfectly fresh. Wash them well and slice them; cut into thin pieces of about three inches long and two inches wide. Run a wooden or sil- ver skewer through to hold them to- 82 gether, and season well with salt and pepper. Brush with a little but- ter, and put on a double broiler and broil for about five minutes, turning over the broiler to alow each side to cook. Place on a platter and pour over melted butter and chopped par- sley and lemon juice, and serve hot, as you would broiled steak. SteTved Kidneys. ( Rognons Sautfis a. la Crgole. i 3 Kidneys. 1 Cup of Water. % Spoon of Butter. l_^ % Glass of White Wine. 1 Teaspoonful of Slierry Wine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Sprig Each of Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf, Very Fine. Select perfectly fresh kidneys; wash them well, and then slice very thin. Season well with salt and pep- per. Put one and a half tablespoon- fuls of butter into the saucepan; when melted and very hot, add the kidneys and chopped herbs, being very careful to stir constantly and very fast, to prevent burning. Add a half glass of White Wine, if pos- sible, and one cup of water or con- sommfi. Let it boil up once, and the kidneys are ready to be served. Kidneys are like eggs — they do not require long to cook, and the more they are cooked the harder they be- come. Five minutes should be suf- ficient to cook them well, and at no time should they be allowed fo boil. By adding champagne, instead of white wine, you will have Rognons Saute au Champagne. Broiled Liver. Brochettes de Foie. 1 Pound of Beef's Liver. Tablespoonful of Melted Butter, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Chopned Parsley to Garnish. Wash and slice the liver into thin pieces of about three inches in length and one-quarter inch in thickness. Run a skewer through to prevent from curling up. Season well with salt and pepper, brush lightly with butter, and place on a double broiler, stringing on the skewer ',/ith alter- nate slices of bacon. Broil as you would a tenderloin steak for about five minutes, and serve with a sauce of melted butter and chopped par- sley poured over. Fried Liver a la Lyonalse. Foie Sautfies a. la Lyonnaise. 1 Pound of LlTer of the Beef. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Large Onions. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Slice the onions nicely. Put one tablespoonful of butter into the frying pan and add the onions. When brown, take the liver which you have cut into slices of about three inches in length and one half inch in thickness, and season well with salt and pepper, and lay it over the onions. Stir well. Cover and let it fry for about three minutes, and then turn over and let it cook three minutes more. Pour a teaspoonful of vinegar on top and again season to taste. Let it simmer three or four minutes long- er and serve hot. Liver does not re- quire long to cook. Jellied Tongue. Langue de Boeuf en Gen^e. 1 Beef Tongue. 2 Calf's Feet. 4 Pints of Strong Consomme. 1 Glass of Sherry Wine. Spices. Parboil the tongue and two calf's feet. Then take out of tile hot water and skin and clean the tongue well, and take the bones out of the calf's feet. Mince t"wo onions very fine, and fry them in a tablespoonful of butter. Let them brown, and lay on these the well-seasoned tongue and calf's feet. Let them simmer ten minutes, and then add one pint of consommfi, and Ave minutes after, one glass of white wine. Let these smother, keeping well covered, for an hour and a half. Then take the tongue out, and let the calf's feet cook and reduce a half hour longer. After this add the tongue for two minutes longer. Put all into a bowl or dish, and let it cool. You will have a delicious jelly. Smothered Tongne. Langue de Boeuf BraisSe. 1 Fresh Tongue of Beei. 1 Pint of Liquor in Which the Tongue Was Boiled. 2 Onions, Minced Very Fine. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Cloves. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Glass of White Wine (if Desired). Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parboil the tongue for about ten minutes. Then skin and clean 'well. Chop an onion very fine, and brown this in a tablespoonful of butter. When brown, add the tongue, which you will have arranged by fastening the thick part to . the tip with a skewer, as for roast beef. Let it cook, smothering slowly, for fifteen minutes, and then add another onion sliced nicely. Let this brown, and add one square inch of ham, well chopped, two carrots sliced, and a bay leaf, and two sprigs of thyme, minced fine. Brown again, and add a pint of broth. Season well, and add a glass of white wine, and then let it smother for one hour and a half longer, turning every quarter, so that every part may cook thor- oughly. Serve with the sauce in which it was cooked, or with a Sauce Piquante. (See recipe.) CHAPTER XIII. VEAL. Du Veau. The loin, filet, shoulder and breast ot the veal are used for roasting. Chops are cut from the loin, and the leg is used for filets and cutlets. The filet of veal is quite different from the filet of beef, and does not, in any manner, correspond to the lat- ter, being a solid piece cut from the leg-s of the young calf. The knuckle is the lower part of the leg after the cutlets are taken off, and, with the neck, is used extensively for making stews, soups and veal pies. Indeed, as far as stews are concerned, the Creoles never make a "beef stew" or very rarely, the meat of beef be- ing considered too tough. Never buy veal that is very young, for young meats, as a rule, are not nutritious; but properly cooked, as the Creoles know how, they need never be un- wholesome or indigestible. A calf should never be killed until It is at least two months old, and then the meat has a pinkish tinge, and is firm and the bones are hard. Calf that has been killed too young may be known by the bluish tinge and. the soft, flabby flesh, and small, ten- der bones. The Creole cooks always pound the veal almost to a pulp. This renders it very tender and digestible. Veal must alw^ays be w^ell cooked, and cooked very slowly, else it will be hard, tough and unfit for food. Veal furnishes an almost endless variety of delightful dishes. The fol- lowing are those most important in use in Creole homes: Roast Loin of Veal. Longe de Veau Rotie. 4 Pounds of Veal. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sprigs of Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Gar- nish. Trim and cut the veal nicely of the heavier portion of the fat, leav- ing enough, however, to render it sweet and juicy. If freshly cut, and not handled too much by the butcher, merely wipe the loin with a damp towel. Then dredge it thickly with salt and pepper, and separate the ar- ticulations or joints, that the meat may cook thoroughly. Rub well with a tablespoonful of butter or lard, and place in a very quick oven for about fifteen minutes. Then raise the damper of the stove and cover the veal with a piece of brown buttered paper and let it cook slow- ly, allowing at least twemty minutes to each pound of veal. Keep the oven at a steady, regular heat. About twenty minutes before serving take off the buttered paper and let the roast brown nicely, augmenting the fire a little. Take out, place on a hot dish, garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with its own gravy. The practice of making a gravy with fiour for roast beef and rest veal cannot be too se- verely condemned. Meat is always best when served in its own juice, if roasted or broiled. Roast Veal With Pine Herbs. Carr§ de Veau Roti aux Fines Heroes. A 4-Pound Filet of Veal. 1 Cup of Broth or Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Onion. 3 Bay Leaves. 2 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. The Juice of 1 Lemon. ^ Teaspoonful Each of Oround Cloves, Mace and Allspice. Have the butcher cut the filet of veal square, wipe with a damp towel and then take one tablespoonful of lard and dredge the roast nicely. Season well with salt and Cayenne; mince tlie onion, bay leaf, marjoram, parsley and thyme, and mix vhese with the ground spices; add the juice of a lemon, and pour all over the meat. Place in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes. After this, lessen the heat, place on top of the veal a buttered piece of brown pa- per, and let it roast slowly, allowing twenty minutes for each pound of veal. When almost done, take off the paper and let the roast brown nicely for twenty minutes longer. Then take the roast out of the gravy and place in a hot dish in the oven. Take the gravy, stir well, mixing all the herbs that have run out of the beef. Add one cup of b'roth or water and the juice of one lemon, and mix this thoroughly. Grate some bread crumbs, beat well in one egg, and pour this over the veal, let it brown nicely and serve with the sauce. 84 Filet of Veal With Mushrooms or TraMeH. Filet de Veau aux Champignons ou aux Truffes. 1 Filet ot Veal. H Can of Mushrooms or Truffles. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 4 Cloves (It desired). 1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Glace (see recipe). 1 Glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine (or water). Salt and Pepper to Taste, Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for Filet of Beef Larded, with Mushrooms or Truffles, only do not lard the veal. Allow the veal to cook much longer, for it must be well done, twenty minutes to ths pound being a good guide always in roasting veal. (See recipe for Filet of Beef Larded, with Mushrooms or Truffles.) Stuffed Roast Shoulder or Breast of Veal. Epaule ou Poitrine de Veau Parcie. 1 Shoulder of Veal. ^4 Pound of Ham. 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Hard-Bolled Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Spoon of Flour. (If the shoulder of the veal is used, have the butcher remove the bone.) When reaily to cook, wipe ■well with a damp towel, and then dredge with salt and pepper, seasoning high- ly. Make a dressing by taking one cup of stale bread, wet and squeezed, one-quarter pound of sliced ham, or salt pork, preferably the ham, and chop very fine. Mix this with the bread and season highly with hot pepper, according to taste; 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 ot parsley, all minced very fine. Add one table- spoonful of butter, and place in a frying pan; let it fry for about ten minutes and then add, it you ha.ve it, a quarter ot a glass ot white wine, or two tablespoonfuls, and two ta- blespoonfuls of beef broth; stir well and cook for five minutes longer. Then stuff the shoulder well and skewer the filet to prevent the dress- ing from falling out in cooking. It is well to tie the veal at either end with a piece of twine. Take one ta- blespoonful of lard and dredge roast according to preceding recipes. If the breast of the veal is used, make long gashes between the ribs and fill with a dressing prepared as above, place in the baking pan and roast slowly, according to directions. When finished cooking, remove the shoulder or breast, and stir the gravy well, adding a cup of broth or v/a- ter and the Juice of one lemon and a teaspoonful of butter, seasoning to taste. Serve with the roast. Some like the addition of a teaspoonful of prepared mustard, but that is a matter of taste. Venl Cutlets Breaded. Cotelettes de Veau PanSes. 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. Sauce a la Alaltre d'Hotel. Have the cutlets cut thin. Season well with salt and pepper. Beat an egg well and roll the cutlets in the egg, then roll in bread crumbs. Drop in boiling lard and try to a nice golden brown. Take out, drain off tlie lard, place on a heated dish and serve with garnish of parsley and sliced lemon and a Sauce k la Maitre ; d'Hotel. (See recipe.) The addition ot a little lemon Juice adds to the fiavor when eating the cutlets. Veal Cutlets Breaded asd Broiled. Cotelettes de Veau Panfies et Grll- 16es. 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. Parsley. Sprigs. llelted Butter or Sauce a la Ravigotte. Have the cutlets as thin as pos- sible. Season well, after having beat with the rolling-pin, and roll in a well-beaten egg and then In bread crumbs. Pat lightly with the hands and brush with melted butter. Place on a double broiler and broil on a very slow fire till no blood exudes. Serve with drawn butter sauce poured over or a Sauce 9. la Ravi- gotte. (See recipe.) Garnish the dish nicely with parsley sprigs. Cutlets of Veal it la Milanaise. Cotelettes de Veau k la Milanaise. 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. A Bed of Macaroni or Spaghetti. Tomato Sauce. Prepare as above, and serve the cutlets on a bed ot boiled macaroni or spaghetti, and pour over the whole a Tomato Sauce. Veal Cutlets en Fapillotes, Cotelettes de Veau en Papillotes. 6 Veal Cutlets. A Half Pound of Pork Sausage Meat. % Can Muslrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, 1 Clove Garlic. ' Salt and Pepper to Taste. Use for this young and tender veal cutlets, cut very thin. Fry the chops, after seasoning well in but- ter, very slowly, and, when cooked, take out ot the frying pan and put in a dish. Take a- tablespoonful ot butter and put in a trying pan. Add a half pound ot sausage meat and a halt can of mushrooms, chopped very fine. Mix well, and season with salt and pepper. Add a minced clove ot garlic, and let it all cook five min- utes. Take pieces ot white fools- 85 cap paper and cut in cone or pyra- midal shapes of the size of the out- lets. Fold the edges over the other very nicely, doubling the paper to form the half diamond or cone. Then oil the paper well with sweet oil. Take the stufHng of sausage meat and put a layer on one side of the fold of each cone. Lay the chop diagonally across this, so that the end reaches the tip of the cone, and spread over this another layer of the stuffing. Fold the paper over neatly around the edges, and -then - oil well again on the outside. Bake in an oven or lay on top of a grid- iron and broil until brown. This will be in about five minutes. They will need no gravy, the oil having slightly permeated, and the chops being kept delicate and juicy by the dressing. Serve hot in the papers or papillotes, the guests removing them at the table. This is a very dainty way of serving veal cutlets, and the only way of serving them in papillotes. Veal Cutlets Smothered & la CrSole. ■ Cotelettes de Veau :6toufCfies ou Brais6es &. la Creole. 6 Veal Cutlets. ' 6 Onions, Sliced Fine. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. Pepper and Salt to Taste. Cut off the outer skin of the cut- lets, and season well with salt and pepper. Dredge with flour. Place the tablespoonful of lard in a deep frying pan and let it melt. Then lacy in the sliced onions, and over' these lay the cutlets. Cover closely. Let them simmer over a hot fire for a few minutes and then turn the cutlets on the other side. After three minutes, add two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, chopped par- sley, thyme and bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Turn the veal, letting the flour brown well, and keep the pot closely covered. When brown, pour over one cup of water, or a, pint, which will be sufllcient to covep the meat. Bring this to a brisk boil and set the pot back, where it can simmer gently for about two hours. Serve with a nice garnish of parsley or radishes. Veal Daube a la Crgole. Daube Froide a la Creole. 4 Pounds of Veal Rump. 2 Pig's Feet. Vi Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 5 Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Tatlespoonful of Lard. 1 Glass of Slierry. 3 Sprigs of Tliyme and Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll -well in Cayenne and black pepper. ■Chop finely several sprigs of thyme and three bay leaves, one Clove of garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and mash well three cloves and six all- spice. Roll the strips of salt meat, which must be about three inches in length and one-half inch thick, . in this. Make incisions into the rump of meat and force in the strips of fat meat and the spices. Then rub the whole well with salt and pepper, judging according to taste, and proceed to cook according to the recipe for Beef a. la Mode. (See, recipe Beef S,' la Mode.) Let the daube cook about four hours when you intend to serve it cold. In the meantime, in another pot, place a veal steak of about two pounds and two pigs' feet. Season well with salt and pepper and Ca- yenne, and cover well with four quarts of water, and let them boil. Add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, one-half clove of garlic and one on- ion, all minced very fine, and two cloves mashed into almost a jelly, and one glass of Sherry or Madeira "Wine. Let these boil well with the veal and pigs' feet. Then, when the veal and pigs' feet are cooked very tender, take them out of the pot and minc'e the meat of each very fine; ■ return to the sauce, and again sea- son highly, according to taste, for the flavor depends upon the piquant ■ seasoning. After the daube has ' cooked four or five hours, take off the stove and pour over the sauce and set all in a cool place. Serve the next day — cold, cutting into thin slices. It will all have formed a jelly that is most delicious and ap- petizing; .. , J If the flank is used, have it boned by the butcher, removing the lit- tle flat bones and all the gristle. In this case, trim it evenly and make a forcemeat of sausage, 1 cup, grated - flne; bread crumbs, 1 cup, wet and squeezed; 1 clove of garlic or 1 grated onion, all minced very fine; 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 sprig of i:hyme and bay leaf, minced flne. Mix all thoroughly with the sausage meat and the bread; fry in a tablespoonful of butter for about five minutes; add a tablespoonful of Sherry, stir well; stuff the flank of veal, and then pro- ceed in exactly the same manner as above indicated. Fricanileau of Veal. Fricandeau de VeaUi A Rump of Veal of Two Pounds Weight. 1 Pint of Broth. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. % Dozen Slices ot Bacon. % "Can ot Green Peas or Mushrooms. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. For this take one whole piece of the rump of the veal, cut about two inches in thickness, and about the size of a large saucepan or frying pan in length and width. Lard the beef well with larding needles, and rub well with salt and pepper. Then slice two onions, two carrots, two sprigs of thyme and two bay leaves, and a half dozen slices of thinly- sliced fat bacon, two inches long and about the thickness of a dollar. Place the bacon in strips in the bot- tom of the saucepan, and lay over this a layer of the sliced carrots and onions. Put about a dozen lit- tle dots of lard over this at intervals, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay the veal on top of this, and then cover up with a layer of the sliced onions and carrots, and lay strips of bacon on top. Cut a piece of pa- per the size of the saucepan, and cover it up. Place in a good oven, and let it bake three-quarters of an hour longer, slowly. Watch care- fully. When done, take out the meat and place it in a dish. Take the sauce and add, if possible, one-half glass of white wine, and let it boil with the vegetables a moment. Then add one pint of broth or water, and let it cook well. Strain after it boils fifteen minutes. It will have become a very fine gravy. Add, if desired. a half can of mushrooms, or a half can of green peas, and let it boil for ten minutes longer. Then add the Pricandeau of Veal and let it warm well for about ten minutes and it is ready for the table. This is a most excellent family dish. Stewed Veal. Ragout de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. 3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water. % Can of Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. The brisket of the veal or the neck is best for stews, preferably the brisket. Cut it into pieces of about 1 1-2 inches square, put a tablespoon- ful of lard in the stew pot, and when hot throw in the veal, which has been well seasoned with salt and black pepper. Let it brown, and then add the onions and carrots, which have been chopped fine, and one clove of garlic, minced very fine. Let this brown, and then add one vablespoonful of flour, Silted well, and let this brown nicely; add two pints of boiling wa- ter and 1 can of tomatoes, and a bay leaf, chopped very fine, and salt and pepper again to taste, adding, if desired, a dash of Cayenne. Many of the Creoles add a teaspoo'nful of vinegar. Set the stew back on the stove and cover closely. Let it sim- mer slowly for an hour and a half, or until the meat Is perfectly tender. Then serye hot. Sten-ed Veal With Fotatoea. Ragout de Veau aux Pommes de Terre. 1 Brislcet or Knnclsle of Veal. 2 Small Potatoes. 2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Floor. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme, Paralcy and Sweel Marjoram, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Proceed in the same manner as for RagoQt de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. Just before adding the water, add the potatoes, which have been peeled and out into quarters or halves, ac- cording to size. Add the boiling wa- ter after they are in the stew about ten minutes, and set back, allowing it to simmer for an hour and a half, or until very tender. Stevred Veal With Mnshrooms. Ragoflt de Veaux aux Champignons. 3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water, 1 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Flou.r 1 Tablespffonful' of Lard. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Cut the veal into pieces of about 1 1-2 inches square. The brisket of the veal or the neck is best for stews, preferably tlie brisket. Cut it into pieces of about 1 1-2 inches square, put a tablespoon- ful of lard "in the stewpot, ami, when hot, throw in the veal, whioli has been well seasoned with salt and black pepper. Let it brown, and then add the onions and carrots, whicli have been chopped fine, and 1 clove of garlic, minced very fine. Let this brown, and then add 1 tablespoonful of fiour, sifted well, and let this brown nicely; add 2 pints of boiling water and 1 can of mushrooms whole, and a bay leaf, chopped very fine, and salt and pepper again to taste, adding, if desired, a dash of Cayenne. Set the stew back on the stove and cover closely. Let it simmer slowly for an hour and a half, or until the meat is perfectly tender. Then serve hot. This is a very delightful dish. Cream of Veal, CrSme de Veau. 3 Cups of Chopped Veal. 1 Cup of Chopped Ham. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. % Cup of Cream Sauce. Utilize in this the left-over filet of veal. Chop very fine and add one cup of minced ham. Prepare a Cream Sauce (see recipe under "Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") i" the proportions to make just a halt cup. Season the chopped veal with this, add a dash of Cayenne and grated nutmeg, spread upon hot but- 87 tered toast, aini serve at breakfast. Chicken and mutton may be pre- pared in the same -way. Veal en Ratatoullle. Ratatouille de Veau k la Creole. i Pounds of Brisket of Veal. % Pouad of Ham 2 Cloves of Gallic. % Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresb. 4 Dozen Fresh Okra. 2 Large Onions. 2 Sweet Potatoes. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. Cut the veal into pieces of about three inches in length and two in width. Cut the ham into dice shape, and the sweet potatoes, after peeling, into cubes of about one and a half inches. Add a half sweet pepper pod, if possible, being careful to ex- tract all the seeds. Season the veal highly. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the stew pot (butter is nicer, if it can be afforded), add the veal and let it brown nicely; then add the ham, the sweet potatoes and the pepper pod, and let them simmer gently for about fifteen minutes. In the meantime, prepare the fol- lowing sauce: Place a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and when it melts add the chopped onion, and as they brown nicely, the minced herbs and garlic, and then the to- matoes sliced and chopped, in their own liquor. Let this stew for about fifteen minutes, and then add this to the stewing veal; mix thoroughly and set back on the stove, covering tightly, and let it simmer slowly and constantly, with a regular fire,, for about two hours. Then add the ok- ras, which have been tipped and sliced very thinly; let the mixture simmer for a half hour longer, and serve. This is an excellent family dish. Veal Patties or Veal Loaf. Pate de Veau ou Pain de Veau. 3 Pounds of Veal Cutlets. 3 Yolks of Eggs, beaten light. a Crackers. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 1 Pound of Lean Ham. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Stew the veal, and then powder the crackers very fine. Mince the cutlets, the herbs and the ham very fine. Season well with salt and pepper, and mix with the bread crumbs and beaten eggs. Add a clove of garlic to the taste, if desired; add juice of 1 lemon. With the whole form nice litte oaves of pie, shape, smooth over the top with butter, brush with egg, beaten well, sprinkle with crumbs, and bake in a' moderate oven, placing a buttered paper over the pat6s. The loaf may be formed whole and cut in thin slices and serve cold. Blanquette of Veal. Blanquette de Veau. 3 Pounds of Veal Brisket. 2 Onions. 1 Carrot. % Can of Mushrooms, 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Yolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of 1 Lemon. Va Gallon of Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. This is a very cheap and excellent dish and may be made with left-over meat. But the brisket is never ex- pensive, and one may as well have it with the fresh meat. Take a brisket of veal and cut into pieces of two square inches. Put in a stew pot and cover with a half gallon of wa- ter, and add salt and pepper and two onions and 'one carrot, chopped fine. Let it boil till very tender. When it reaches this stage, take the meat out of the saucepan, and keep tlie water in which it was boiled.' Take another saucepan and put a table- spoonful of butter in it, and as it melts add a tablespoonful of flour. Mix well, continuing to dissolve till it becomes a smooth cream; do not let it brown. Add one pint of the water in which the veal was boiled. Stir well, making it very light, and not thick. Add' one-half can of mush- rooms, and let the whole boil about fifteen minutes, so as- to be very- light. Then put in the veal, which is already cooked. Let it simmer for about fifteen minutes longer, and take off the fire and add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of the gravy and the juice of one lemon. Serve hot. This is the true CrSole Blanquette de Veau, and it is a dish within the reach of all. Jellied Veal. Noix de Veau 8. la Gel6e. The Filet or Part of Lower Shoulder Blade of Veal. 6 Peppercorns. 2 Calves' Feet. 1 Blade of Mace. 2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Gill of French Vinegar. 1 Dozen Cloves Mashed Fine. -1 Allspice Mashed Fine. 3 Quarts of Beef Broth. Cut the veal into fine pieces, sea- son well, and put it in a kettle with the calves' feet, and season highly with pepper, Cayenne and salt to taste. Add three quarts of beef broth, or "pot-au-feu." Add the minced vegetables, herbs and the peppercorns, and let it boil gently until it forms a jelly, which will be 'in about two and a half hours. Then take out the veal and calves' feet, and carefuly remove all the bones, if any, and place in a mold. Let the liquor in which it was boiled boil until it is reduced to about a quart, adding, in the meantime, the good vinegar. When reduced, pour over 88 the meat and set it in a cold place over night. When cold, turn out of the mold and garnish nicely with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs and serve in slices. Veal AVith Olives. Veau aux Olives. A Flank of Veal. 1 Slice of Cold Boiled Ham. 1 Grated Onion. 1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 1 Lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Dozen Stoned Olives. This is a very old-fashioned Creole dish. Get a flank of veal and cut it into strips of about four inches in length and four in Vi'idth. Cut off sufficient to make a half cup, and chop this fine, with a slice of cold boiled ham. Make a mince meat, adding chopped herbs, according to taste, 1 grated onion, 1 hard- boiled egg, the juice of 1 lemon and a ta- blespoonful of butter, with a. half cup of bread crumbs. Take the strips of veal, stuff them nicely with this mix- ture and roll over the ends, tying to prevent the farcie from escaping. Place a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, and, when it heats, add the rolls, of veal. Let them fry for ten minutes, turning, and then add soup broth sufflcient to cover them. Cover ci.isely and set back on the stove, and let them simmer steadily but slowly for an hour longer; then place in a hot dish, pour the gravy over, seasoning highly; add about two dozen stoned olives, and pour over the rolls and serve. Veal Pot Pie. Vol-au-Vent de Veau. A Veal Brisket. 2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon or Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Dozen Potatoes. Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. This is a famous dish among the Creoles with large families. For a family of six, get a veal brisket, and allow three parts of minced veal to one of ham. Make a nice pie crust. (See Plain Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, and bake in the oven. Cut the meat very fine, into, dice, and season high- ly, rubbing with the minced thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and salt and pep- per and Cayenne. Stew the meat as in RagoQt de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. Place in the pan. Dot the top with bits of butter, and place over all a layer of pie crust, decorating the edges nicely. Bake to a nice brown. Serve in the dish in which it was nnnlrftr? ^rifVn qt.-.. i .^** Veal Croquettes, Croquettes de Veau. 3-4 ot a Pound of Cold (Cooled) Veal. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 4' Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. 1. Onion. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 TeaspoonMl ot Salt. Cayenne and Pepper to Taste. This is an excellent way of utiliz- ing left-over veal. Hemove all the tough fibers and nerves. Hash the veal w(;ll and season with the minced vegetables and sweet herbs, mixing all thoroughly. Then take a cup of the soft of the bread, wet it and squeeze, and soak in milk, in which yoil have beaten two eggs. Mix all this with the meat very thoroughly and season to taste. When well mixed, form the meat into cylindrical shapes and brush with a little but- ter. Then roll in a beaten egg and roll again in powdered bread crumbs. Pry in boiling lard and serve hot on a plate garnished with fried parsley. If made very carefully, it will be very difficult for anyone to discern the difference between a Chicken Croquette and a Veal Croquette. Calf's Head a la Poulette. Tete de Veau a, la Poulettei 1 Gait's Head. Tolk of 1 Egg. 1 Lemon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. Sauce a la Poulette. Clean and prepare the calf's head as in the recipe given for "Calf's Head Soup." (See recipe.) Then boil it according to recipe. Cut one lemon fine and add to the boiling calf head, which, it must be remem- bered, is boiled simply in water, and salt and pepper. Add two table- spoonfuls of good vinegar and let it cook till done. This is either used to make a mock turtle soup or is served with a Sauce a, la Poulette. as follows: Make a Sauce a. la Poulette (See recipe.) Put the calf's head in the sauce and let it boil for a halt hour. Take the yolk of one egg and beat it as you would an omelet. Add to the calf's head and serve. This will give the sauce a fine golden color. Calf's head may also be served with a Sauce AUemande. (See recipe.) Calf's Head A la Tortne. Tete de Veau a, la Tortue. 1 Calf's Head. 2 Large Onions. ^ Can of Mushrooms. 1 Lemon. Thyme and Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Wineglass of Sherry. 1 Tablespoonful ot Butter. 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. Slice the onions and mince the garlic. Put the butter into a stew pot, and as it melts add the onions 89 Add one tablespoonful of flour, sifted well, and, as this becomes brown, add one pint of consommg or water if you have not the broth. Then add the chopped thyme and bay lefi-f and the peel of one lemon, cut very fine, and the juice. Let all this simmer tor about ten minutes and then cut up the calf's head and add it to the mixture. After fifteen minutes add a. half can of mushrooms, and, in a few minutes, one small glass of Sher- ry wine. Let it all cook about ten minutes, and then season well, ac- cording to taste. Let all cook about half an hour longer, and, when ready to serve, place the calf's head in the middle of the dish, pour the gravy over and range the mushrooms around. Garnish them with the piec- es of a flat omelet, which you have made from the two eggs and cut into diamond shapes, alternating with toast buttered and cut into diamond- shaped Croutons. Tliere are many other ways of serving calf's head, but these are the standing Creole methcds. It is well to repeat that a calf's head requires about three hours to boil. Calve's Brains Fried. Cervelles de Veau Marinade. Calve's Brains. 1 Onion. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf- Gi'ated Bread Crumbs. Plunge the brains into cold water to disgorge them of all .blood and re- move the fine skin and blood that surrounds them. Then blanch with scalding water. In flve minutes Jaka them out of the hot water and put them into a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add a tiny onion, sliced fine; parsley and bay leaf, whole. Let them simmer gently for five min- tites. Then take from the fire and drain. When cold, cut into pieces of a square inch and dip in a batter or tomato sauce, and then in grated bread crumbs, patting gently. Drop into boiling lard and fry to a golden brown. Take out and drain of grease and serve on a bed of fried parsley. A garnish of boiled green peas is also very pretty and palatable. Calve's Brains, Brown Butter Sauce. Cervelles de Veau au Beurre Noir. Calve's uralns. 1 Tatlespoonful of Butter. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. Sauce aux Beurre Noir. Prepare the brains as mentioned above by boiling, and then place in a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of butter. Cut up a tiny onion, and add also a sprig of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, alf minced very fine. Add to the butter, and then add the brains cut in slices a half inch thick. Sea- son again to taste. Fry for fivo minutes, and serve with a Sauce aux Beurre Noir. (See recipe.) Calf's lilver Pried. Foie de Veau Sautfi i la Lyonnaise. 1 Pound of Liver 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Slice the liver very fine into pieces of about three inches in length and one in widtli. Season well with salt and pepper. Slice two onions very fine and take a tablespoonful of lard or butter and put into the frying pan. When it heats, add the onions and. as they brown, place on top the slices of liver. Let them brown on one side about two minutes and a half, and then turn on the other. Let this side brown two minutes and a half longer and serve with the onion sauce, to which add a teaspoonful of vinegar. Calve's lilver a la Bonrgeolse. Pole de Veau Sautfi k la Bourgeoise. 1 Calf's Liver. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Turnip. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Pint of Broth or Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the liver and lard it well With n'feedles. Put a tablespoonful of lard of butter into the frying pan,, and when hot, add .immediately the onion, carrot and turnip, all sliced very fine, and then the flne herbs, hicely minced. Let these brown, and add the liver. Pour over this about two spoons of White Wine or one of Sherry. Add aljout a pint of con- somm§ or boiling water. Season highly, cover the saucepan well, set back on the fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour, and serve. Fried lilver and Bacon. Foie de Veau Frit au Petit Sal6. 1 Pound of Calf's Liver. Vn Pound of Breakfast Bacou. % Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Black Pepper to Taste. Slice the liver into pieces of about three inches in length and one-quar- ter of an inch in thickness; slice the bacon very thin, having as many slices of the bacon as of the liver. Put the bacon in the frying pan and fry brown; then place it in a heated dish and set over a pot of boiling water and cover to keep warm. Dust the liver with flour, after having seasoned well with salt and pepper and fry it in the bacon fat. When it cooks about five minutes, ajlowing two minutes and a half to each side, take out and arrange on the same dish with the bacon in alternate slices. Garnish nicely with parsley and serve. 90 Calf's Feet, Plain. Pieds de Veau au Naturel. 3 Calfs Feet. 3 Quarts o£ Cold Water. 1 Gill of Vinegar. 2 Tablespoonfula of Flour. 1 Oniou. 1 Carrot. 12 Wbole Pepper Corns. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. 1 Herlt Bouquet. Split each ot the calf's feet in two. Then carefully remove the larger bones, and cut the meat into pieces of about one incli square. Soak well in fresh water for one hour. Then wash and drain thoroughly. Put two tablespoonfuls ot flour and three quarts of cold water into a saucepan; stir well, mixing thoroughly; place the feet in the mixture and add one onion (chopped fine), twelve whole peppers, one carrot cut into fine shreds; the herb bouquet and two tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the feet boil briskly for about one hour. Take from the fire and arain well. They are now ready to serve with any sauce that may be desired. Calf's Feet A la Foulette. Pieds de "Veau k la Poulette. Calf's Feet. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Sifted Flour. 1 Pint of Water. 14 Can of Mushrooms. Yolk of 1 Egg. Juice of 1 Lemon. Boil the calf's feet; then take out the larger bones and cut in pieces of about an inch suare. Prepare a Sauce a. la Poulette by putting one tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- pan, and, as it melts, add two table- spoonfuls of sifted flour; add about one pint of the water in which the calf's feet have been boiled. Stir well and throw in the calf's feet, sait and pepper to taste,, and, if de- sired, about a quarter of a can of chopped mushrooms. Let it boil about five minutes, and then take off the stove and add the yolk of an egg (beaten well), the juice of one lemon, and serve. Calf's Feet, Tomato Sauce. Pieds de Veau, Sauce Tomate. 3 Calf's Feet. A Sauce a la Tomate (1 Pint.) Prepare the feet as in the recipe "Calf's Feet, Plain," and pour over, when ready to serve, a Sauce a, la Tomate. (See recipe.) Calf's Feet, Planant Sauce. Pieds de Veau, Sauce Plquante. 3 Calf's Feet. 1 Pint or Sauce Plquante, Prepare the calf's feet as in recipe for "Calf's Feet, Plain," and add, when ready to serve, one pint of Sauce Piquajite. (See recine.l Calf's Feet, Sauce Reiuoulade. Pieds de Veau t la Sauce Remoulade. 3 Calf's Feet. Sauce Remoulade, 1 Pint. Prepare the feet as in the recipe for Calf's Feet Plain, and pour over, when ready to serve, one pint of hot Sauce Remoulade. (See recipe.) Calf's Feet, Italian Sauce. Pieds de Veau 3. la Sauce Italienne. 3 Calf's Feet. 1 Pint of _Sauc« a I'ltalienne. Prepare the feet as in the recipe for "Calf's Feet, Plain," and serve with one pint of Sauce 2- I'ltalienne. (See recipe.) SWEETBREADS. Ris de Veau. Sweetbreads are the glands in the throat of a sucking calf. They are found in the throat of all very young sucking animals, but are more con- siderable in the throat of the young calf, and even then at the largest are seldom bigger than a man's flst doubled over. The sweetbreads are the glands used by the calf in suck- ing, and are only found In the young calf during the period when it is fed on its mother's milk. "When a calf is turned out to grass, the sweetbreads, or inilk glands, be- gin to grow smaller, ani in three or four days disappear, no longer standing out in a mass of delicate flesh, but hanging long and soft and flabby. On account of their delicacy, sweetbreads have al- ways been the object of particular attention of good cuisini6res, because, in a fine, fresh state and with prop- er preparation they can be made not only into a most delightful and pal- atable dish, but are, perhaps, the most r6cherch6 of all meat dishes. At least, the sweetbreads have al- ways been so considered by the French, who set the world the lesson of good eating hundreds of years ago; and the Creole chefs of New Or- leans, improving upon old French methods of cooking, as well as orig- inating their own delicious combina- tions, sustain the verdict of the gour- mets of the ancient mother country. It is surprising what a diversity of definitions of sweetbreads are given by educated people in America. Scarcely one person In ten, if the question is put directly, can tell just what a sweetbread is, and they can scarcely be blamed, for the most dis- tinguished lexicographers, from Web- ster down to the compiler of the New Century, fail to give the correct definition. "Webster defines sweet- breads "as the pancreas of any ani- mal," and defines "pancreas" as "a gland of the body, situated between the loins." The New Century's .defi- nition is almost parallel. Every old French dictionary (for it Was French cooks who first began to use the sweetbreads in cooking) define sweetbreads as the glands in the throat of any young animal, more generally the sucking calf, as these latter are used exclusively in the preparation of sweetbread dishes. The old Creole gourmets have had infinite amusement over the defini- tions given by American dictionary makers, and, as for the ancient Cre- ole butchers in the French Market, they curl their lips in scorn and tell you Just to come down to the New Orleans Slaughter-House when the calves are being killed, and they will show you the sucking calves, which have sweetbreads, and the calves which have gone out to grass and in whose throats the sweetbreads have disappeared. If you quote Webster and the New Century, they will tell you that a good butcher knows bet- ter than the dictionary maker where meats are concerned. The Picayune feels constrained to give the definition of sweetbreads as a matter of correct information. The custom of calling the panacreas the "sweetbreads" is accounted for by our Creole butchers in this way: The sweetbreads are very expensive, the smallest costing at least 25 cents apiece. To make a dish for six, al- lowing one apiece, would, therefore, cost $1.50, for sweetbreads alone, without other ingredients. Sweet- breads are not always to be found in the market in quantity to supply the demand. Large canning factories have therefore, made it a practice to take the gland of the stomach of the calf, or pancreas, and prepare it in such a way, by canning, that it partakes somewhat of the nature of a sweet- bread; and, as there is such wide- spread ignorance as to what a sweet- bread really is, even among the most fastidious epicureans of the United States, the "pancreas" is passed off as such, and is becoming gradually accepted as such outside of the New Orleans market, where the old French or Gascon butcher scorns to sell you anything but the real sweet- bread. He has too much respect for the traditional cooking of his native France and his own reputation as a reliable butcher to do such a thing as this. He laughs at the great big sweetbreads as large as a man's hand, spread out to the full extent and width, that come in cans labeled "Sweetbreads," and will tell you that no sucking calf In the world, unless it had goitre, could have such a gland In the throat. The French, indeed, use the term "Pancreas" in connec- tion with sweetbread; but the word Is meant to imply in this significa- tion "toute chair," or "all flesh," and has nothing in common with the pancreas proper, or stomach gland. Hence the very apt name which tliey have given to the sweetbread, "Ris de Veau"; it implies to all who have a comprehension of this beautiful and expressive language the soft, deli- cate, milky gland that is so dainty and rScherchS a dish in the most elegant French and Creole homes. With this explanation, the Pica- yune "Cook Book" will now give the mpst delicious Creole modes of pre- " paring this delectable dish. HoiY to Blanch Stveetbreads. Select three fine pairs of sweet- breads and clean and trim nicely. Soak them for at least two ana a half hours in cold fresh water, pour- ing off the water from time to time till three separate waters have been used. About three-quarters of an hour may be allowed for the first two waters. Add a pincli of salt to each water. After soaking for the time specified, drain the sweetbreads and place them in a saxicepan of cold water and set on the flre; add a half teaspoonful of salt, and let the-m blanch till they come to a boil. Then drain and set them in cold water to freslien. Drain thoroughly, press them into shape and lay on a nap- kin in a cool place. They are now ready for general use. The sweet- breads should be pressed down gently with a pound weight, in order to flatten well. Sn-eetbreads Larded \VIth Muslirooin Sauce. Ris de Veau Piqu6 aux Champignons. 6 Sweetbreads. 1 Carrot. 4 Thin Slices of Bacon. 1 Onion. 1/4 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful ot Floor. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Whole Sprig of Thyme. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Wineglass of Madeira or Sherry, 1 Pint o£ Consomme. Salt and Pepper. Croutons. Soak the sweetbreads in clear, cold water as soon as I'rn come from mar- ket, for they are so delicate that they spoil very easily. Wash well, to take off all the blood; wash again in a clear cold water, and parboil them for ten minutes. Then drain them of all water, press them into shape and put them on a clean cloth on a table and cover with a plank and put'a weight upon them to flat- ten. When cold, clean with a knife, cutting off all the outside nerves, veins and fibers, witho'ut breaking the sweetbreads, however. Cut fat lard into little strips like matches, and, with a larding needle, lard the sweetbreads, slipping the needle in on one side and bringing out on the other. Lard each sweetbread eight times. Then slice one onion and one carrot very fine; mince three bay leaves and a whole sprig of thyme. Take a very thin slice of very fat bacon, cut it into thin strips and cover tile bottom of the saucepan with these. Lay the sweetbreads on top and put on top of these the sliced onion, carrot and finely minced herbs, o^iit and pepper by sprinkling nicely. Cover tliis with a few fine strips of fat ba- con. Cover the whole with a brown paper which has bsen well greased with butter, and put the pan in a slow oven with the paper on top. Let the sweetbreads bake for about t"wenty minutes, basting occasion- ally. In the meantim,e make a Sauce a, I'Espagnole as foUovys: Chop a fe"^v pieces of beef very fine, or else use good stock. If meat is used boil in about t"wo pints of water, Wlien it is reduced to about one pint, take off and strain. Take a tablespoonful of butter or lard, and brown lightly with a tablespoonful of flour. Then add the water and dissolve well, stirring constantly to prevent being lumpy. Add to this a half can of mus.hrooms, and let it simmer a few minutes, and then add a glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine. Let it cook rapidly, for about ten minutes. In the meantime, the sweet breads will have been cooked to a nicety. Take them out of the pan and put one by one into the sauce, and let them cook ten minutes long- er. Serve with buttered CroQtons cut in dice shapes. Sweetbreads are al- ways served with fresh young green peas. This is a famous Creole dish. SiveetbrenflM Willi Green Peas. His de Veau SautS aux Petit Pois. 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4 Slices of Vat Bacon. 1 Can of Frenci Petit Pois, or 1 Pint of Fresh Young Green Peas. 3 Ba.T Leaves. 1 Srirlg of Thyme. 3 Cloves. Vi Pint of Fresh Mills. 1 Pint of Consomma. Salt anil Pcjiper to Taste. Croutons. Prepare the Sweetbreads in ex- actly the same manner as Indicated in the above recipe, which is the very nicest way in which they can be served. Make the sauce as indi- cated, letting it brown slightly, and, instead of the mushrooms, add a can of French Petit Pois or a pint of fresh young green peas that have al- ready been boiled well and drained from all liquor. Place the sweet- breads in one by one and let them cook for ten minutes longer and serve with the sweetbreads placed in the center of the dish, and the green peas around them as a gar- nish. Sweetbrcnds AVIth Trnflleii. Ris de Veau aux TrufCes. 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 4 Slices of Fat Bacon. % Can of TrufflM. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Salt and Pepper. Croutons. Prepare the sweetbreads in exact- ly the same manner as in the recipe "Sweetbreads with Mushrooms." When making the sauce, add a wine- glassful of Madeira or Sherry, and rne-half can of truffles cut in halves. Serve with the truffles as a gar- nish about the sweetbreads. This is a very expensive dish, very rgoherchS and very elegant. STvectbrends a la CrSiiie. Ris de Veau a, la CrSme. 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 10 Mushrooms. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter, 1\^ Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Pint of Cream. Clean and parboil the sweetbreads for twenty minutes. Then remove all veins and nerves, and chop the meat into pieces of about an inch , and a half. , Chop the mushrooms very fine indeed. Put the butter in a saucepan, and, when it melts, add the flour, being careful not to let it brown. When perfectly smooth, add the- r^ilkand stir constantly until it boils. Then add the chopped mush- rooms and let thum simmer for five minutes. Season well to taste with salt and white pepper. Then add the sweetbreads and cook for five minutes longer and serve hot. At luncheons and diAners the Sweet- breads k la Crdme are served in small silver shells or fancy paper cases. Sweetbreads ft la Flnanel$re. Ris de Veau 3, la Financi^re. 3 Pairs of Sweetbread % Pound of Butter, 3 Carrots. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Pint of Beef Consomme or Water. 1 Pint of Rich Chlcjion Broth or Water. 2 Truffles. 12 Mushrooms. 18 Stoned Ollvea. 12 Godlveau. Quenelles. 2 Blanched Chicken Livers. A Half Pint of Madeira or Sherry Wine. A Dash of Cayenne. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Croutons Fried in Butter to Garnish. Select fine, fresh Sweetbreads and prepare as in the recipe for Sweet- breads Larded With Mushrooms. Parboil for twenty minutes; then drain of all water; press them into shape, lay on a clean napkin and cov- er with a plank and place a weight upon them to press and make solid. 93 Take a piece of fine salt pork, and cut into little thin strips like matclies and lard the Sweetbreads with this, using a very- fine larding needle, and following implicitly the direction given in the recipe for Sweetbreads Larded With Mushroom Sauce.- Lard each Sweetbread eight times. Then take a shallow saucepan and piil within a half pound of butter. When the butter melts, lay in the Sweet- breads, one by one. Season with salt and ptpper very lightly, and add the three carrots, sliced fine, and the onion, sliced very fine. Add the finely minced thyme and bay leaves. Butter a piece of brown paper and cover the saucepan; then set in the oven and let the Sweetbreads cook slowly till they are of a bright golden brown. From time to time uncover the saucepan and turn the Sweetbreads, so that all portions of them may be evenly colored. When they have reached this beautiful col- or add one pint of good beef broth (Consomme or Bouillon), and let them simmer foj a half or tliree- quarters of an hour. When nearly ready to serve, prepare a Sauce a, la FinanciSre as follows: Take two tablespoonfuls of butter, melt and remove from the fire, and add grad- ually a tablespoonful ot flour;- blend well with a wooden spoon till very smooth, and moisten with one pint of rich chicken broth and set on the fire. Add the truffies, nicely sliced; a dozen and a half stoned olives; the blanched chicken livers, cut in pieces; the mushrooms, nicely chopped; a half pint of Madeira or ■ Sherry Wine, salt and pepper to taste, and a dash of Cayenne or Tabasco. Let the sauce cook for twenty minutes. It should be of the consistency of rich cream. Place the sauce in a round dish, lay the Sweet- breads over it, garnish with the Go- diveau Quenelles and CroQtons fried In butter and send to the table hot. Sweetbreads Ik la Poulettc. Ris de Veau a. la roulette. 3 Pall's of Sweetbreads. The Yolks ot 4 Eggs. Tlie Juice of 1 Lemon. 1/4 Tablespoonful of Butter. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. A Sauce a la Poulette. Parboil the Sweetbreads for about twenty minutes, then make a Sauce Si la Poulette (see recipe), adding the juice of one lemon and seasoning to taste. But do not add the eggs till the sauce has been taken from the fire or it will curdle. When the sauce is made, place the sweetbreads in it, one by one, and let it come to the boiling point. Then remove from the fire and stir in the yolks of four eggs that have been well beaten, and a half tablespoonful of butter. Sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley, pour over the sweetbreads and serve. SweetbroailH In CasHeroIcn. Ris de Veau en Casseroles, ou Vol- au-Vent. 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. Vi, Cau of Slushrooms. 2 Dozen Oysters. 1 Glass of Slierry Wine. A Sauce a la Poulette. Parboil the Sweetbreads in ex- actly the same manner as in the above recipe for Sweetbreads a la Poulette. Six sweetbreads will suf- fice. Cut them inio dice pieces af- ter parboiling; add a quarter of a can ot finely-chopped muslirooms to the sauce, and a glass of Sherrv wine. Take two dozen oysters and cut in pieces, taking off all the hard portions. Add the chopped sweet- breads to the sauce, and, after ten minutes, add the oysters. Let them cook for five minutes, have ready a pan filled with a rich vol-au-vent crust, pour the mixture in and serve. Or make the vol-au-vent crust, which is very diflicult (see recipe), into small shells; bake and fill witli the sweetbreads. This is an elegant disli for fashionable luncheons, but quite above the ordinary household- er's purse. The sweetbreads are generally served in caseroles or fan- cy cases. S^reetbreads Crtsplncitcn. Crfipinettes de Ris de Veau. 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. , % Clove ot Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Teaspoonful ot Prepared Mustard. Clean and parboil the sr.'eetbreads as already shown in recipe. Chop an onion very fine and place it in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them simmer without browning; add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, one-half clove of garlic, a teaspoonful of prepared mustard, and mix well. Then add a pint of water and stir well; then add the sweetbreads which have been chopped very fine and formed into- "Crgpinettes," or little fringed balls, by patting with the hand; let them simmer, for about fifteen minutes longer. Serve with any sauce, prefi erably a Cream Sauce. (See recipe under chapter "Sauces for Fish, Meats, etc.") Frieil Sireetbreads Breaded. Ris de Veau Panfies. 3 Pairs ot Sweetbreads. 1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumba. A Cream Sauce. Wash and parboil the sweetbreads 94 and then trim oft all tendons and nerves. Cut into pieces of about two inches long and roll first in a well- beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. Drop into boiling fat and fry till a golden brown. Serve with a Cream Sauce. Broiled STveetlireads. Ris de Veau GrillSes. 3 Pnlra of Sweetbreads. 2 TablespooDtuls o( Melted Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parboil the sweetbreads and then remove all nerves. Cut into halves. Brush with melted butter and place on the gridiron. Broil nicely, and, when well colored, take off, pour melted butter over them, season again, and serve very hot. This is a delicious breakfast dish. SweethTeuiS^ Smothered. Ris de Veau Braissgs. 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 2 Tablespoonluls of Butter. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay LcaTCB. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare the Sweetbreads as in the recipe for "Sweetbreads Larded With Mushrooms." Put them into a sauce- pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- ler, and let them brown slightly. Add a finely-sliced carrot and onion and the minced herbs. Season light- ly with salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan with a buttered paper, and then cover closely. Occasionally un- cover and turn the Sweetbreads till they are all browned evenly to a nice golden brown. When they have reached this color, add the pint of Consomme or water .and cover again and let them simmer for about twen- ty minutes. They are now ready t(^ serve with any kind of sauce or gar- nish that may be desired. In serv- ing sweetbreads thus prepared, al- ways place the sauce on the dish, first having the dish very hot; lay the Sweetbreads over the sauce, garnish nicely "with fried Crotitons and serve. Sweetbreads thus prepared may be served with a Sauce S. I'Oiselle, Sauce Salpicon, Sauce k la Soubise, Sauce a. la Bearnaise, Sauce a la Duxelle, Sauce aux Gourmets, with a Pur6e of Spinach, or with hot Cr#pes. Observations. There are many other ways of serving Sweetbreads. We have "Ris de Veau ft I'Espagnole," "Ris de Veau en Coquilles," etc., for the Creoles have infinite variety in serving al- most every dish. But the above are the recipes in most general use, and the recipes "Sweetbreads Larded with Mushrooms," Sweetbreads with Green Peas" and "Sweetbreads with Truf- fles" cannot be too highly recom- mended. These preparations are In a very distinct manner peculiar to New Orleans, and are elegant en- tries at the most distinguished 'feasts. TRIPE. Tripe. Tripe, which is the large stomach •of ruminating animals, is generally cleaned, scraped, bleached and pre- parde by the butchers before it is sold. It is nutritious and digestible. To prepare the tripe properly tor cooking, wash it carefully in several waters. When thoroughly clean, put it in a kettle of cold water; add' one tablespoonful of salt and one of vin- egar, and let the tripe boil for five hours at least. In the meantime, pared by the butchers before it is always best, if tripe is to be used for breakfast to prepare it and give the long boiling the day before. Drain thoroughly. Then it is ready for preparation according to any of the following recipes: Stewed Tripe. Tripe Sautge. 2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Ijeaf. % Clove of Garlic. % Pint of Milk. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Take the prepared tripe and out into strips of about one finger length and a half inch In width. Put a ta- blespoonful in a saucepan; add a fine- ly-sliced onion, a sprig of parsley and a bay leaf, minced. Stir in the melted butter without letting it brown, then add a tablespoonful of flour. Stir well and add a pint of milk. Stir constantly till it comes to a boil, seasoning to the taste with salt and pepper. Then add the well- seasoned tripe and let it cook over a raioderate fire for about five min- utes. Stetred Tripe a la liyonnalse. Tripe a. la Lyonnaise. 2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. % Clove of Garlic. The Juice of 1 Lemon, or a Teaspoontnl of Vinegar. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Place a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan and add one chopped on- ion, one carrot, finely sliced; a sprig each of thyme, parsley, bay leaf and salt and pepper. Let it brown slight- ly and place the tripe on top, and ad- ding a half clove of garlic, minced very fine. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and add the Juice of one lemon. Let it all simmer for a few minutes and theii add a half cup of broth or hot water. Season to the 95 tast«, let it simmer for twenty min- utes longer and serve. ' Tripe a la Fonlette. Gras-Double a, la Poulette. 2 Pounds of Tripe. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 1 Tfiblespoonful of Flour. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. A Sauce a la Foulette. Having- prepared the tripe accord- ing to the directions given under the heading of "Tripe," , make a rich Sauce a, la Poulette, always omitting the eggs till later. (See recipe.) Take eight small white onions that have already been boiled in plain water until they are perfectly ten- der, and add to the sauce. Let them stew for about five minutes. Then add the tripe, which has been cut into pieces of three inches in length, and one-half inch in Tvidth, and stew the whole gently fsr ffbout a half hour. Take off the fire and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring constantly and serve hot. Pried Tripe. Tripe Frite. 2 Pounds of Tripe. 1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. Prepare the tripe, boil well, and cut into pieces of three inches in length and one in width. Roll it in a beaten egg and then roll in grated bread crumbs. Drop in boiling lard and fry to a golden brown. (See di- rections for frying.) Take off the fire and place on a bed of fried par- sley and garnish with sliced lemon. Serve with a Sauce Piquante or a Sauce Poivrade. (See recipe for meat sauces.) Tripe & la Creole, Gras-Double a. la Creole. 2 Pounds of Tripe. 12 Tomatoes, or a 2-Pound Can. 2. Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Square Inch of Lean Ham. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Tast*. A Dash of Cayenne. Clean the tripe well, and boil till tender. Cut it into slices of about two inches long and half an inch wide. Take two onions and slice them fine, and a tablespoonful of butter. Put in a saucepan together and let them smother well. Then chop about one inch sqquare of lean ham very fine, and add. Take two cloves of garlic, chopped fine, with three sprigs each of thyme and bay leaf, minced very fine. Put in a saucepan, and let all brown. Then add about twelve large, fresh toma- toes, or the contents of a two-pound can. Season all to taste with salt and Cayenne pepper. Let it cook for ten minutes, and then add the tripe, and let all smother for twenty-five minutes. Season to taste, and serve hot. Tripe a la Mode de CaSn, Gras-Double &. la Mode de Caen. 3 Pounds of Tripe. 3 Onions. 3 Carrots. 1 Dozen Whole Bay Leaves. 1 Dozen Whole Cloves. 1 Doaen Whole Allspice. 3 Cloves of Gai-lie (whole.) 1 Ounce of Thyme (whole.) 2 Dozen Pieces of Bacon 2 Inches Square. % Bottle of White Wine. 1 Cup of Broth or Water. Salt, Cayenne and Chill Pepper to Taste. Take three pounds of tripe. Cut the tripe into pieces of about two inches square. Slice three onions and three large carrots very fine. Take one dozen whole bay I'^aves. one ounce of thyme, whole; one doz- en whole cloves, and the same num- ber of allspice, three whole cloves of garlic, two dozen pieces of very thin bacon cut into pieces of two inches square. Have ready a two-gallon earthen jar that can stand baking in an oven. Put in the bottom of the jar a thin layer of butter. Place on top a thin -layer of bacon, then a thin layer of onions, carrots, bay leaves, thyme, garlic, spices, divid- ing into two equal portions the whole amount. Sprinkle over the whole salt, Cayenne and Chili pep- per. On top of this lay one-half of the tripe. Over the tripe place a layer of bacon; then vegetables, sea- sonings, etc. Over this place another layer of tripe, and remnants of thyme, bay leaf, vegetables, bacon, etc., as below, this being the la«t layer. Pour over all a half bottle of White Wine and one cup of broth or water. Cover the jar closely with a layer of Pie Paste (PatS Bris6e^- see recipe), set in a very moderate oven, and let it cook slowly for at least five hours of constant, steady cooking. Tills Is a very rgcherchS old-fashioned Creole dish, and very excellent. Some add to the tripe a small quantity of calf's head or feet. In making this dish you will need lit- tle else for dinner besides a soup or gumbo. > CHAPTER XIV. MtJTTOX. Du Mouton The leg, shoulder and loiri of the mutton are used as roasting pieces. The brisket and neck are used for soups and stews, and from the loins are cut the delicate French chops or cutlets of mutton. Mutton Is so susceptible of elegant seasoning, and so easily impregnated with the dif- rerent aromatic herbs used in cook- ing that it becomes not only most agreeable to the taste, but tender ami very easily digested. Something to Remember in Cooking Mutton. Remember that mutton must never be fried. You will hear of mutton chops .breaded, and mutton chops en papilotte, in imitation of the ways of cooking veal chops, but the Cre- oles very wisely and very sensibly re- frain from cooking mutton in any other ways than those given -in this book. No good Creole cook will eat a fried mutton chop. Roast Leg of Mutton. Gigot Roti. 1 Leg of Mutton. Salt aud Pepper to Taste. Select a fine, tender leg of mutton. Wipe thoroughly with a damp towel and dredge with sa.lt and pepper, thoroughly rubbing, so that the meat may be penetrated by the seasoning. Place the mutton in a baking pan, set in a quick oven and bake, basting every ten minutes or so, allowing twelve minutes to every pound. The mutton must never be overdone but underdone. The Creoles always serve it rare. It will require no larding, for the meat is rich and soon makes sufficient juice to allow frequent basting. To ascertain if done, press with the fingers or stick with a fork; the juice will spurt out, and it Is then ready to serve. Decorate the bone with a quilling of white paper, and serve in its own sauce. The dish on which mutton is placed must al- ways be very hot, as alsd the plates on which it is to be served. Avoid thickening the gravy with flour. No practice is more reprehen- sible. If well cooked, the juice will almost spurt from the leg before it is carved. A very nice way to serve it, and one generally used by th«- Creoles, is to put a circle of nicely- boiled and browned turnips aroTOid, the dish, and serve with the gravy ol the mutton. Roast Saddle of Mutton, Selle de Mouton Rotie. A Saddle 'of Mutton. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Currant Jelly. A saddle of mutton is two loins. Proceed to roast in exactly the same manner as for a single leg. Serve with Currant Jelly. Roast Loin of Mutton. Filet de Mouton Roti. A Filet of Mutton. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Garnish of Green Peas. The filet of mutton is a square cut from the loin. Proceed to dredge with salt and pepper, and roast in. exactly the same manner as leg of mutton. The Creoles serve the fllet very often with a garnish of green peas (Petit Pois) piled around. Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. Gigot de Mouton Bouilli, Sauce aux. Capres. 1 Leg of Mutton. 1 Herb Bouquet. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Caper Sauce. Rub the leg of mutton well with salt and pepper. Have ready a pot of boiling water, into which you have- thrown the herbs, bay leaf, salt and pepper, allowing a teaspoonful eacli- of the two latter ingredients. Put the leg of mutton into the water,- being very careful to have it well covered with water, else the meat will blacken. Let it boil gently but steadily, allowing fifteen minutes to- every pound of meat. When done, place on a dish and serve with a Caper Sauce. In serving slice nicely and put a few drops of lemon on each slice, and pour over the Caper- sauce. (See recipe Caper Sauce.) Mutton thus prepared is also serve* with a Purfee of Turnips. 97 Mutton SteTT. Ragotlt de Mouton aux Pommes de Terre. I 4 Founds of the Brisket of Mutton. 6 Irish Potatoes. 3 Large Onions. 1 Bay I«af. M Clove of Gallic. V4 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Quarts of Water. 1 Sunare Tnch of Hnm,-. Oliopped Very rine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut the mutton into pieces of about an Inch square and season well with salt and pepper. Put one-quarter of a tablespoonful of lard into the stew- pot, and when it melts add the thinly sliced onions. Let these brown for a few minutes and then add the mutton and the ham, chopped very fine. Let this continue browning', and when slightly browned, add one tablespoonful of finely sifted flour and stir well. Then add the finely- minced bay leaf and a half clove of 'garlic, minced fine. Brown lightly, for a mutton stew must never be dark. After twenty minutes, add two quarts of boiling water and let it boil for about ten minutes longer, seasoning to taste. Then add the potatoes, cut into halves, and let the mixture cook for three-quarters of an hour longer, making one hour and a half in all. Let it simmer gently all the time, so that the meat may be perfectly tender. Mntton Ste^T WitU Turnips. Ragoflts de Mouton aux Navets. 4 Pounds of the Brisliet of Mntton. 6 Turnips. 3 Large Onions. 1 Bay Leaf. % Clove of Garlic. Vi Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Quarts of Water. 1 Square Inch of Ham, Chopped Very Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut the mutton into pieces of about an inch in length and thickness, and season well. Proceed to make the stew as mentioned above, only in- stead of adding the potatoes, add turnips parboiled, and cut into halves or quarters. This is a very delicious stew. The neck of the mutton may also be used for stews, but preferably the brisket. Slionlder of IHntton Smothered With Turnips. jfipaule de Mouton Braisfie. 1 Shoulder of Mutton. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. % scaiK nf rc'er.r. 4 Cloves. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Turnips. If the mutton does not appear very tender the process of smothering it will make it so. It is well to beat the leg well with a rolling pin, and you will be sure of good and tender eating. Season well. Slice an on- ion and one carrot very fine; chop fine a half stalk of celery, and put these, with the shoulder of mutton. Into a deep baking pot. Cover well and let the mutton juice permeate the vegetables and brown them. Then add the minced bay leaves and cloves; cover and let these brown, and after ten minutes add one quart of boil- ing water. Season well again and set on a steady fire, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound. An hour before serving add six whole tur- nips, which have been peeled and parboiled, and let these remain smothered with the mutton. Serve with the turnips as a garnish. This dish is highly recommended. Broiled Mutton Chops. Cotelettes de Mouton GrillSes et PanSes. 6 Mutton Chops. Butter. Salt and Pepper. In selecting mutton chops for broiling, remember that the smaller French chops, which are cut from the breast of the mutton, are generally served at dinner, and the loin chops for breakfast. The breast chops are daintier in appearance, but the loin chops are sweeter and the meat is more solid. The French chops should always be cut thinner than the. loin chops. Season the chops well with salt and pepper and brush with melted butter and a few bread crumbs. Have the gridiron very hot and place the chops upon it. In a few seconds turn the chop and let this side cook. The blood will be running out, and the chop is done. Place on a plat- ter, butter thickly and sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve very hot. Mutton Cutlets. ) Cotelettes de Mouton, ' ■ 4 Mutton Cutlets. ; Butter. Salt and Pepper. The cutlets are slices from the thick part of the leg of the mutton and are very excellent eating. Trim off the outer skin and broil in the same manner as mutton chops. They are very delicious served for din- ner with a garnish of PurSe of Spin- ach. (See recipe.) Mutton Chops, Brefrer's Style. Cotelettes de Mouton k la Brasseur. i Mutton Chops. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Juice of Lemon. 3 Shallots. Chopped Pine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Select six thick chops from the loin of the mutton. Trim neatly and sea- son well with salt and black pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Rub lightly with butter on either side and broil on a hot charcoal fire. Have ready a- hot dish and pour over the chops a sauce of melted butter, seasoned nicely with salt and pepper, the juice of one lemon and three minced shal- lots. Serve hot. Mutton Hash. Hachis de Mouton. 3 Cups o£ Hashed Mutton. 6 Potatoes. 1 Herb Bouquet. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Tablescpoonful o£ Lard or Butter. This is a splendid way of utilizing the left-over mutton. After having taken oft all the rough edges of the roast and cut out the gristle and hard membrane, hash the mutton into pieces of about one Inch in size. Take six left-over tomatoes, or freshly boiled, and cut into quarters. Chop fine one herb bouquet. Place a ta- blespoonful of butter or a half ta- blespoonful of lard into the stew- pot, and as it melts add the mutton seasoned well, and a few minutes later the fine herbs. Mince the clove of garlic if the flavor is liked and add. Stir constantly without brown- ing much, and add a tablespoonful of flour. Let this brown very slightly and then add the tomatoes. Cover and let all simmer for about twenty minutes, and then pour over a pint bf boiling water. Season again to taste and set back on the stove and let it simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour. Cut some Croutons and fry them in butter; place on a dish and serve with the hash. The Creoles often add several poached eggs if the sauce is not thick enough. It is also a frequent custom to add a quarter or a half can of mushrooms to the hash, but this is always a matter of taste and econo- my. Mutton Feet a la Poulette. Pieds de Mouton S, la Poulette. 32 llutton Feet. A Sauce a la Greme. The Juice of 1 Lemon. H Teaspoonful of French Vinegar. 1 Gill of Water. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. ^ Can of Mushrooms (if desired.) This is a famous Creole dish. Scald the mutton feet in boiling water and remove every vestige of wool that may adhere, cleaning and scraping the feet. Then place them in a pot, cover well with boiling water, add half of a lemon (including peel and meat) to the water, and salt well. In the meantime, prepare a Sauce a la Poulette as follows: Make a Cream Sauce (see recipe Meat Sauces) and add the juice of one lem- on, or half a tablespoonful of good vinegar. Take the mutton feet out of the water in which they have been boied, take out the big bones from the feet. Put the mutton feet Into the Sauce 9. la Poulette, add a gill of water, let all simmer about five minutes, and then take off the fire and add the yolks of two eggs. beaten well, stirring well into the sauce. Serve hot. Many of the Creoles add a half can of mushrooms to the mutton feet before putting in the sauce. This makes the dish very delicious, increasing the flavor. Mutton Feet ft la liyonnalae, Pieds de Mouton a, la Lyonnaise. 12 Mutton Feet. 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Pint of Broth. Salt and Pepper to Tastt Croutons. Clean and boil the mutton feet In the same way as indicated in the above recipe. When done take out the large bones and cut the feet into two-inch pieces. Cut two onions very flne, mincing them, and brown in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. When slightly brown, add a tablespoonful of flour. Mix well, making a nice Brown Roux (see re- cipe under chapter on "Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") and then add about a pint of the broth in which the mut- ton feet have been boiled. As it boils, skim off the grease and let it simmer for about ten minutes. Then add the mutton feet and let them simmer ten minutes longer and serve hot, with Croiltons of bread fried in butter. Mutton feet may also be served with a Purfie of On- ions. (See recipe.) Stuffed Mutton F«"et. Pieds de Mouton Parois. 12 Mutton Feet. % Cup of Wet Bread. 1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 1 Spoon of Batter. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 3 Thin Slices of Veal. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Carrots. 2 Onions. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean the mutton feet well, accord- ing to directions given, and boil and take out all the bones. Take a half cup of wet bread and squeeze well. Season well with salt and pepper and fry in a little butter and add a chopped egg. Stuff the feet with this, splitting down the length and sewing up to prevent the dressing escaping. Take a saucepan and put in one tablespoonful of lard and lay over it thin slices of veal, well sea- soned, and one bay leaf, one spng of thyme and geranium (minced very fine), three chopped carrots, and two onion's (chopped very fine). Po^J over this the juice of a lemon, let it simmer gently for about a half hour, turning the veal, that it may cook •well and be thoroughly penetrated by the juices. • Put the stuffed ™"t" ton feet on top, cover closely, and let all simmer for a half hour longer. Then unsew the mutton feet, lay them on the slices of veal, garnisn nicely and serve with a Sauce a. I'Es- 99 pagnole, Bauoe aux Tomates, a Sauce aux .pgnons, or Sauce a, la Proven- ■gale. " The latter two are highly reo- ommeded. Slieep Tongues Smotliered. Langues de Mouton Braisfies. 6 Tongues. 1 Large Onion, Out Fine, 2 Carrots, Cut Fine. 1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Very Fine. f Flclsles. ^ of a Cup ot Capers. 1 Pint of Boiling Water. 2 Slices of Bacon. Scald and blanch the tongue re- moving the skins. Throw them into cold water. Dry and piqu6 or lard very delicately with larding needles. Season well with salt and pepper. Slice the bacon into fine strips and lay in the bottom of a saucepan; place the lamb tongues over this. Place on top another fine layer of bacon in very fine strips. Add the minced carrots, onion, herbs, and salt and pepper again to taste. Let it simmer for about fifteen minutes and then moisten w^ith about a pint of boiling water or broth. Let it- cook over a slow fire about three hours. Then take out the tongues, place them on a hot dish, -strain the sauce through a sieve, set back on the stove a few seconds, and add one- quarter of a cup of capers, and three pickles, sliced fine. Stir well and let it boil up once. Povir over the tongues and serve. Lamb tongues are prepared in the same manner when braised or smoth- ered. Sheep Brains, Cervelles de Mouton. Vi Pound ot Brains. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. Grated Breadcrumbs. Parsley to Garnish. The brains of mutton are pre- pared in exactly the same manner as calf's brains and served accordingly. (See recipe). But the brains of mut- ton are far more delicate, and, con- sequently, considered a more rficher- ch6 dish. Plunge the brains into' cold water to disgorge them of all blood and re- move the fine skin and blood that surround them. Then blanch with scalding water. In five minutes take them out of the hot water and put them into a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add a tiny onion, sliced fine, parsley and a whole bay leaf. Let them simmer gently for five minutes. Then take from the ,flre and drain. When cold cut into pieces of a square inch and dip In a batter or tomato sauce, and then in grated bread crumbs, patting gently. Drop into boiling lard and fry to a".solden brown. Take out and drain .off "grease, and serve, on a bed of fried parsley. A garnish of boiled green peas is also very pretty and' palatable. Sheep Brains, Brown Sauce, Cervelles de Mouton, au Beurre Noir. Prepare the brains in exactly the s'ame manner as indicated in the above recipe and serve with Brown Butter Sauce. .(See recipe.) Sheep Kidneys, Rognons en Brochettes. 6 Kidneys. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Slice the kidneys very thin and wash well, then scald and wipe dry. Pass a skewer through each kidney, after seasoning well, and brush with melted butter. Place on a double broiler and cook for five minutes, allowing two and a half minutes to each side. Place on a hot dish and pour over melted butter and a little lemon . juice. Garnish nicely with parsley and serve hot. LAIUB, Agneau. Lamb is in season from April to September. Like very young veal, it is unwholesome and tasteless if eaten too young. A lamb should al- ways be two months old, else it will be what the Creoles call "une viande gSlaineuse," or a jelly meat not fit to eat and very difficult to manage. The best way to cook lamb is to roast it or bake it. The loin of the lamb is cut into 'chops; the brains, tongue, cutlets, tendons and feet are cooked in the same manner as those of sheep, and it would be superfluous to repeat the recipes. Stewed Lambs' Tongues, or 'Lang- ues d'Agneau SautS," served with a Sauce Tomate, or a Sauce a la Tar- tare, is an excellent entree, or lunch- eon dish. Roast Iiamh, Mint Sauce. Quartier d'Agneau Roti, Sauce Menthe. The Hind Quarter of a Lamb. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parsley to Garnish. Mint Sauce. This is the standing dish for the Easter dinner in New Orleans. Select a fine, fresh, white hind-quarter of ■lamb. Boast in exactly the same manner as indicated In "Roast Leg of Mutton" (see recipe), only allow about twenty minutes to the pound in cooking. Serve with garnish of parsley and a Mint Sauce. (See re- cipe.) Roast Lamb is alw?iya,. served with fresh, young green peas and aspara- gjis tips.. 100 Roast Lamb ft la Bearnalse. Agreau Roti a, la Bearnaise. The Hind Quarter of a Lamb. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 6 Minced Shallots. 1 Tablespoonfal of Butter. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. Tie Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Select a fine, white hind-quarter of the Iamb; lard it in the same man- ner as griven for larding "Roast Filet of Beef." (See recipe.) Rub well with butter on top and sprinkle over thickly with the soft of bread crumbs, minced parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper and minced shallots. Set In the stove and cover with a but- tered brown paper. Let it roast; al- lowing eighteen or twenty minutes to the pound, in a quick oven, and, when done, take off the paper sprinkle again lightly with grated bread crumbs; let it brown and set in a hot dish; sprinkle over with lemon juice; garnish the dish with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon, and serve, carving in slices and plac- ing a quarter of a lemon on each plate. Filet of Lamb Roasted anil Lariljil. Filet d'Agneau Roti et Piqu6. A Filet of Lamb. Lard Sufficient to Lard Thoroughly. 1 Small Onion. ' 1 Bay Loaf. 4 Cloves, if desired. 114 Tablespoonfnls of Butter. 1 Tablcspoonful of Glace. (See recipe.) 1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry ■V^•'iue. or Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Trim the filet nicely, removing the oiitPr muscular skin. Lard the fllet well, using larding needles. The lard must be very thin, like a shoe- string. The larding is done by filling the needles with the lard and push- ing them through the fllet as far as they will go. If the needles are long enough they will come out on -the other side of the filet, leaving the lard within. Repeat this pro- cess all do"wn the center and along the sides of the fllet, about an inch apart, and have the rows neat and even. If you have not a larding needle, make incisions with a knife and push the lard in with your finger, but the filet is nev^r as juicy and ten- der, nor does it look so clean and even when baked. When well larded, dredge well with salt and pepper, rubbing this thoroughly into the beef. Cut up one small onion, one bay leaf, and mash four cloves, and place in the bottom of the baking pan. Lay the larded filet on this bed, the larded side being uppermost. Put small bits of buttpr equal to a half tea- spoonful on top, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. This dish is always eaten rare. To ascertain if sufficiently done, stick a fork into the filet; if the blood bubbles out, it Is ready to serve. The meat, when done, is always spongy and elastic to the touch. In the meantime, prepare the fol- lowing Brown Sauce: Take one ta- blcspoonful of butter and one ol Glace (see recipe under chapter "Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.") and three of water, smoothly rubbed, and melt in a saucepan, stirring con- stantly to prevent burning. When brown, add one glass of Madeira or Sh-erry Wine and-a half -cup-Of water, . Season well with salt and pepper. Pour over the fllet, which must be placed in a hot dish, and serve with fresh, young green peas. Fllet of Lamb ft la Bechamel. Filet d'Agneau t la Bechamel. A Filet of Lamb. A Sauce a la Bechamel. Roast the lamb as in the manner given, and prepare a "Sauce 3. la Bechamel." (See recipe.) Slice the lamb and pour over the sauce and serve. This is considered an excel- lent entrfie. Broiled Lamb Chops. Cotellettes d'Agneau Grillges. 6 Lamb Chops. Butter, Salt and Pepper. Broil in exactly tlie same manner as Mutton Chops, only let them re- main a little longer on the griddle, until the chops are firm under pres- sure of a fork. Season the chops well with salt and pepper and brush with meltel butter and a few broad crumbs. Have the gridiron hot and place the chops •upon it. In a few seconds turn the chops and let the other sides cook. Place on a platter, butter thickly anJ teprinkle with chopped parsley ani serve very hot. Smothered Brea.st of Lamb. Poitrine d'Agneau Braisfie. Shoulder and Breast of a Lamb. 2 ■Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Carrot. 2 Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. % Can of Tomitoes. A Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. Bread Crumbs. 2 Tahlespoontuls of Butter. Pepper and Salt to Taste. I Pint of Water. Select nice, fresh breast and shoul- der of lamb. Have the butcher re- move all the bones; wash or wipe carefully with a damp towel. Take one cup of bread crumbs, which have been wet and squeezed, and season well with one grated onion and clove of garlic, and chopped parsley, thyme- and bay leaf, and spices to taste, put in a frying pan. with one table- Bpootiiui ol Butter, ^.nd fry about five- 101 minutes. Place this dressing into the open side ot the lamb, and roll it up in its own meat, and tie it securely with thin strips of twine that the fi— 'ssinsT may not escape in baking. Slice the carrot, onion and turnip »e.y nne, and fry in a tablespoon- ful of butter in a deep pan. When brown, add the lamb and cover and let it simmer for about fifteen min- utes. Then add the tomatoes and let them brown; then add just enough boiling water to cover the meat (one pint); set the pot back on the stove and let it simmer gently and stead- ily for about three hours, or accord- ing to the size of the roll. Serve with the vegetables dished around and with its' own gravy. Minced Lnmb. Agneau £minc6. 2 Pounds of Cold Minced Lamb. ^ Can of Mushrooms. 4 Ounces of Butter. % Pint ot Veal Stock. IVi Gills ot Cream. Yolks of 2 Eggs. Place the butter in a frying pan; add one chopped onion and brown slightly; add the mushrooms, and season to taste. Then add the half pint ot veal broth, if you have it; it not, boiling water or milk, and let it simmer a few minutes; thicken with a tablespoonful of blended flour; add the minced lamb and a gill and a half of cream; let all simmer, stirring constantly; and when done, which will be in about ten minutes, take off the fire; add the yolks of two eggs, beaten, and stir constant- ly. Place in a hot dish, garnish with Crodtons (buttered) -and serve. This is a very nice breakfast dish from the left-over lamu. lCpl£n^niu of Lininb. Epigramme d'Agneau. 2 Breasts of Lamb. 1. Tablespoonful ot Salt. 1 Teaspoonful ot Pepper. 3 Tablfspoontnls of Hatter or Olire Oil. Grated Bread Crumbs. Take two breasts of Damb; tie them and put them to boil in soup stock for forty-five minutes. Then drain wfll and extract all the bones. .Press ihcm down with a heavy weight on top. When thoroughly cold, cut each breast into three tri- angular-shaped pieces, dip them in oliveL oil, or melted lard, or butter, and season with the salt and pepper. Roll each piece in fresh bread crumbs grated, and broil on a slow fire, al- lowing four minutes to each side. Serve with a pint of hot Macedoine or any garnish that may be desired, arranging the breast over the gar- nish. The epigram may be served a la Soubise with a hot Soubise sauce, or a la Chicoree with a hot chicory sauce, or a, la Louisianaise with a hot Madeira wine sauce, and garnish of fried sweet potatoes. Lnsnb en Blanquette. Blanquette d'Agneau. 3 Pounds of Brisket of Lamb. 1 Onion. 2 Carrots. ^ Dozen Cloves. 1 Leek. 1 Bouquet of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. % Pound of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. The Yolka of 2 Eggs. % Can of Mushrooms or Green Peas. The brisket of the lamb is best for this dish. Cut into pieces of two square inches. Put in a stew pot and cover with a half gallon of water, and add salt and pepper and two onions and one carrot, chopped fine. Let it boil till very tender. When it reaches this stage, take the meat out of the saucepan and keep the water in which it was boilea. Take anoth- er saucepan and put a tablespoonful of butter in it. and as it melts add a tablespoonful of flotir. Let it brown lightly, and add one i"nt of the water ,in which the, veal was broiled. Stir well, inakmg it very light, and not thick. Add one-half can of mushrooms, and iet the whole boil about fifteen minutes, so as to be very light. 'I'hen put in the veal, v,-hich is already cooked. Let it simmer for about fifteen minutes longer, and tal.-e off the fire and add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, two tablespoonfuls of the gravy, and the juice of one lemon. Serve hot. Lamb's Brains, Cervelles d'Agneau. The recipes given for the prepara- tion of Sheep Brains may be fol- Jowed in cooking Lamb's Brains. Lamb Brains are a very delicate dish. The following recipe, Lamb's Brains a la Remoulade, however, is a fa- mous Creole dish: Lamb's Brains ft la Remoulade. Cervelles d'Agneau a la Remoulade. Lamb's Brains. 1 Pint of White Wine. 2 Quarts of Water. 2 Cloves of Garlic. The Yolks of i Egss. 2 Siallots. 1 Herb Bouquet. 6 Capers. 3 Small Vinegar Pickles. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 4 Tablespoonfuls ot Vinegar. 1 Tablespoonful of Creole Mustard. % Tablespoonful of Chives. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Plunge the Lamb's Brains into cold water and let them stand for an hour, changing the water several times. Prepare in exactly the same manner indicated for the preparation of Bheep Brains. After removing from the water and taking off the skin, drain of all water. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water and sea- son it with salt and pepper and an herb bouquet of parsley, bay leaves and thyme. When the herbs begin to boil add a pint of white wine to the water, as it boils up again -^rop 102 in the brains and let them cook for ten minutes. Remove the herb bou- quet and strain the brains through a sieve. Place on a hot dish and serve with the foUcwing sauce: Chop the shal- lots very fine, mince the ga,rlic and mash the yolks of the eggs. Put the vinegar into a small saucepan and add the shallots, the garlic and let all boil till the vinegar is reduced about one-half. Then mash the yolks of eggs in the sweet oil and cut up the capers and add all to the vin- egar. Add the parsley and the vin- egar pickles chopped fine and let all come to a boil. Then add the chives and two teaspoonfuls of Cre- ole mustard. Mix well and pour all over the brains and send to the table very hot. liamb's Feet. Pieds d'Agneau. The various delightful ways that the Creoles have of serving Mutton Feet may be used in preparing Lamb's Feet, the latter especially making many delightful and rficher- chg entrees. We have "Pieds d'Ag- neau a, la Poulette," etc. ("See re- cipe for cooking Mutton Peet, "Pieds d'Agneau au Blanc," "Pieds d'Agneau a. la Bourgeoise," etc.) Lamb's Feet, Wliite Sauce. Pieds d'Agneau, Sauce Blanche. 12 Lamb's Feet. 1 Pint of Broth. Tbe Juice of 1 Lemon. The Yolk of 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Clean the feet well, and, after boil- ing, take out all the bones, cut in little pieces of about two inches or less, season nicely and cook in a pint of their own water over a slow fire. Add the juice of a lemon, and then throw in the beaten yolk of an egg to bind nicely, and serve hot. Lamb's Feet & la Bourgeoise. Pieds d'Agneau a, la Bourgeoise. 12 Lamb's Peet. 1 Pint of Broth. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablcspoouful of Flour. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Clean the feet well and boil in th§ manner above indicated. When the water is reduced, take out the feet. cut in pieces, taking out all the bones. Put back in the saucepan, add a tablespoonful of butter blend- ed well with a tablespoonful of flour. Stir well and add two sprigs of parsley, minced very fine, and the juice of one lemon. Let this sim- mer for ten minutes longer and serve hot. Broiled liamb Kidneys. Eognons d'Agneau Grillfies. 6 Kidneys. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley to GarniBh. Prepare in exactly the same man- ner as in the recipe for broiling Sheep Kidneys, and serve with melt- ed butter and lemon juice and chopped parsley, thrown over. In all these recipes, where the skewer is used in broiling to keep the kid- neys from separating, the skewer must be drawn out before butter- ing and serving. SteTred Lamb Tongrues. Langues d'Agneau Sautfees. 6 Tongues. 1 Onion. % of a Small Carrot, Cut Fine. % of a Small Turnip. Cut Fine. 1 Pint of Broth or Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Sprigs of Thyme anrl Panley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean the tongues; wash well and boil in clear water for an hour and a half. Then throw them into cold water and remove the skins. Cut the vegetables fine, and put them with the butter into a saucepan. Add a pint of broth or water, and then add the finely-minced herbs. Add the tongues and let them simmer gently for two hours. Serve hot, with the gravy poured over. Lamb Tongrnes Wltb Tomato Snnce. Langues d'Agneau a. la Sauce Tomate. e Tongues. 1 Onion. 1 Pint of Broth or Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Sprigs .of Thyme. A Tomato Sauce. Cook the tongues as in the recipe given above, omitting, of course, the vegetables. When done, place the tongues on a hot dish, pour over a rich Tomato Sauce (see recipe) and serve. CPIAPTER XV. PORK. Du Uochon. The old Creoles, like their French ancestors, hold that every portion of the hog is good, from the head to the feet, and all portions are util- ized in the various dishes which are so delightfully prepared in New Or- leans. For roasting, the Creoles al- ways use the delicate "Cochon de Lait," or sucking pig, of not more nor less than four or five weeks old, when the pig is roasted whole; other- wise the best parts of the grown hog for roasting are the loin and the leg. Pork chops or cutlets are taken from the loin. Tliey are used as entries, as are also slices of cold ham; the kidneys, cooked in wine, and the tails braisfies, or smoth- ered. Pork must always be cooked well done, or else it w^ill be dangerous, unwholesome and Indigesible. It must .be roasted or fried. The Cre- oles will never eat a broiled pork chop. Roast liOln of Pork. Longe de Pore Rotie. A Loin of Pork. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Parsley to Garnish. Apple Sauce. Score the loin in close lines across and down. The lines should be about a half inch apart. Dredge ■well with salt and pepper and place In the oven, letting it cook slowly and long, allowing at least twenty-five minutes to every pound, and basting every five minutes for the first half hour and every ten minutes thereaf- ter. Pork must always be well done. When cooked thoroughly, take out of the baking pan, put in a hot serv- ing dish, and garnish nicely with parsley. Serve with Apple Sauce and a little horseradish. (See recipe "Sauces for Meats," etc.) Roust Fork, Pore Roti. The leg and shoulder may bs roasted in the same manner as the loin, allowing from twenty to twenty- five minutes to a pound in cooking. Roast Fig Stuffed. Cochon de Lait Roti et Farcl. 1 Pig, Four or Five WeeliS Old. 3 Large Onions. 2 Cups of Btead Crumbs, 3 Sprigs of- Cliopp.ed Paisley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 2 Ounces of 'Butter. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Powdered Sage. 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Herb Bouquet, In New Orleans the pig is always sold killed and cleaned by the butch- er. Wash the young pig well, clean- ing again, and scraping thorouglily and taking out all remaining hair from the ears and nostrils. Wasli again thoroughly in cold water, in- side and out, shaking the pig vig- orously, head downward. Then turn upwards and pour cold water over it. Wipe dry inside and out with a coarse towel, and then rub well in- side with salt and pepper and minced parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Pre- pare a dressing as follows: Wet tlie bread crumbs and squeeze thorough- ly. Then add the sprigs of minced parsley and hard-boiled eggs and the powdered sage. Mix •well. Season all highly with black pepper and salt using about a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of black pep- per. Place two ounces of butter, which will be equal to two table- spoonfuls, in a frying pan on the stove, and, when it melts, add the minced onions. Let them brown, and then add the dressing, stirring well, and letting it fry for five minutes. Take off and stuff the pig and sew up the ' opening. Truss the fore legs forward and the hind feet for- ward, and close under the body. Wipe the pig carefully with a damp towel, and then place a corn cob in its mouth to keep it open. Rub the pig all over the outside with butter, dredging lightly with salt and pep- per. Place in a modreate oven, and bake steadily for two and a half or three hours, according to size and age. Baste frequently, and, when half done, rub again with butter un- til the pan Is saturated. Continue basting at intervals. When done, take out of the oven and place on a hot dish. Garnish the dish with parsley. Take the corncob out of 104 the mouth and place instead a nice, rosy apple. Serve very hot, with Apple Sauce. (See recipe "Sauces for Meats," etc.) Sweet potatoes are a nice vege- table to serve with roast pig. Boil a half dozen first and then peel care- fully and place them whole, about fifteen minutes before serving the pig in- the pan where it is roasting; let them soak in the gravy, brown nicely and serve on a separate plat- ter or as a. garnish. Roast Spare Ribs, Cotelettes de Pore Roti. Spare Ribs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A GaiElsh of Parsley and Radish. Dredge the spare ribs lightly with salt and pepper, after having washed well and wiped dry with a coarse towel. Place them in the baking pan and dredge with butter; place them in the oven and cover with a piece of buttered paper. Allow twenty minutes to every pound in cooking. About twenty minutes before serving take oft the buttered paper, dredge again, with melted butter, and let it brown nicely. Serve with a gar- nish of parsley and radishes. If it is desired to stuff the spare ribs, have the ribs cracked, cross- wise, the entire length, in two places. Put a stuffing, as for roast pig, in the center, or a stuffing made of mashed potatoes and three hard- boiled eggs, mixed thoroughly. Close the ends of the ribs over this, tie we-11 and roast as for a roast pig. Serve with an Apple Sauce or a Sauce Piquante. (See recipes "Sauc- es for Meats," etc.) Fork Tenderloins. Filet de Pore Sautfi. 4 Pork Tenderloins. A Tableapoonful of Lard. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Have the tenderloins cut thin and split lengthwise without separating Season well with salt and pepper. Have ready a very hot frying pan, place a tablespoonful of butter or lard within and add the tenderloin. Turn every two minutes, not leaving them very long on either side at a time. Be careful to cook through and through, smothering over a low fire, and serve with Apple Sauce or Currant Jelly. (See recipes "Sauces for Meats," etc.) Fried Pork Cbops. .Cotelettes de Cochon a, la Poele. 6 or 8 Pork Chop*. Grated Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the pork chops and season well with salt and pepper. Roll In grated bread crumbs and fry In boil- ing lard twenty-five minutes. This will be when they have reached a rich brown. Take out. place on a platter and serve with pickles or a Sauce aux Cornichons. (See recipe.) pigs' Feet. Pieds de Cochon. 6 Pigs Feet. 2 Bay Leaves. 3 Blades of Mace.' 1 Dozen Whole Clores. 1 Whole Red Pepper Pod. 1 Pint o£ Good Cider Vinegar. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Select young and tender pigs' feet. Clean and scrape well and soak In cold water several hours. Split and crack the feet in several places; put them in a stewpot; cover with cold water and let them simmer until tender. When done, lay in a crock. Boil the vinegar, mace, cloves and bay leaves and pepper pod together a few minutes. Season the feet with salt and pepper, and pour the spiced vinegar over while boiling hot. (3over the crock and set to cool. The feet will be ready for use in twenty-four hours. Pigs' Feet, Sauce Robert. Pieds de Cochon a. la Sauce Robert 3 Pigs' Feet. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Olive OH. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. % Tablespoonful of Pepper. Grated Bread Crumbs. % Pint of Sauce Robert. Boil three good-sized Pigs' Feet In a salted water, and when tender, take out of the water and drain thoroughly. Split the feet in two and place in a dish and season well with salt and pepper. Then rub them with the olive oil or butter; roll the feet in grated bread crumbs and put them to broil, allowing four minutes to each side of the feet. Prepare a hot Sauce A, la Robert (see recipe), and pour this sauce in a warm dish. Lay the feet nicely over It and send to the table hot. Pigs' Feet, Plqnant Sance. Pieds de Cochon k la Sauce Piquante. Prepare In exactly the manner di- rected above, and, after broiling the feet, serve with a half pint of Sauce Piquante. (See recipe.) Pigs' Feet, Tomato Sance. Pieds de Cochon a, la Sauce Tomate. Boil and prepare the feet as in re- cipe for "Pigs' Feet, Sauce Robert" and serve with a half pint of hot To-, mato Sauce. Pig's Feet, Tartar Sance. Pieds de Cochon a, la Sauce Tartare. Prepare the feet as Indicated in the recipe for "Pig's Feet, Sauce Rob- ert," and serve with a half pint of Sauce a. la Tartare. (See recipe.) 105 Pig's Feet, St. Hubert Style. Pieds de Coohon a 1* St. Hubert. Prepare the feet as in the recipe for "Pig's Feet, Sauce Robert," and serve with a half pint of hot Piquant Sauce, to which has been added a teaspoonful of Creole mustard, di- luted. Stuffed Pig'fsi Feet & la Perlgueux. . . Fieds de Coclion ft la Perlgueux. . . 3 Pigs' Feet. 2 Minced Truffles. % Glass of iladeii-a Wine. .1 Pound of Bonea Tuiiey Forcemeat. 6 Pieces o£ Crepinette. 1 Egg. 2 Ounces of Butter. Va Pint of Hot Pedgueux Sauce. Boil the Pig's Feet, and then split them in two; take out the boneg, lay the flesh on a dry, clean cloth and wipe well. Make a forcemeat of boned turkey (see recipe under chapter Stuffings for Fowls, etc.); add the truffles, which have been finely minced, and a half glass of Madeira or Sherry "Wine. Mix this well together. Crepinette is applied to a skin found in the stomach of the pig. Take six pieces of this cre- pinette, which you will have secured from the butcher; cut them the size of a man's hand and lay on a clean biscuit board; place on each piece of skin a portion of the forcemeat about the size of a hen's egg and flatten out well. Place one-half of a pig's foot on top of this farcie, and cover with another layer of the stufl^ng. On either side lay three thin slices of truffles. Wrap the- cre- pinettes up in some fanciful shape, such as an envelope or card case, and dip them separately in a well-beaten egg, and then in grated bread- crumbs. Put two tablespbonfuls of butter In a saucepan or deep frying pan, cover closely, and let the feet cook on a slow fire for twenty-flve minutes, allowing twelve minutes and a half to each side. Serve with a pint of hot Perigueux Sauce. (See recipe.) Place the sauce in a dish lay the feet neatly over it and send to the table hot. Stuffed Pig's Feet, Madeira Sauce. Pieds de Cochon a. la Sauce MadSre. Prepare the feet in exactly the same manner as indicated in the re- cipe given above, and serve with a pint of hot Madeira Sauce, Instead of the Sauce Perigueux. Hogshead Cheese, Fromage de Cochon. 1 Hog's Hetfd. 1 Lemon. 1 Glass of Slierry or Madeira. 2 Onions. 1 Slice of Ham. Thyme, Bay Leaf, Spices. Boil the whole of the hog's head, I which has been well cleaned and scraped. Add four teaspoonfuls of salt, and a lemon cut Jn half. After four hours, when the head will have become very tender, take out of the water and set to cool. Then skin the meat, from the head. Preserve the water'in which it has been boiled. Cut up the entire head, ears and tongue and two of the feet, if you have boiled them, too, into pieces of about one inch in length. Take two large onions and chop them very fine. Put a tablespoonful of lard and the onions into a pot. Don't let them brown, but slightly smother. Season well with minced thyme, three mashed cloves, a dash of red pepper (Poivre Rouge). Add a teaspoonful of water taken from the reserve in which the head was boiled. Let this simmer gently; then add one pint of the wa- ter, the peel of a large lemon, cut fine, and one glass of Sherry or Ma- deira. Add hot pepper to taste, sea- soning highly. Boil well. Then add the head and a slice of ham, cut into pieces of about one inch long and a half inch wide. Season to taste, and add five powdered allspice, one blade of chopped mace and three mashed cloves. Let it boil for a half hour longer, till it comes to the right con- sistency. When cooked, fill a bowl with the cheese and put a close-fit- ting dish pn top, and then place a piece of plank over this and set £t big weight of about fifteen pounds or three or four flatirons on top. When the cheese cbols, which will be in about five or six hours, turn out of the bowl. It will have taken the shape of the bowl and become a fine head of cheese^ ready to be served. This is the Creole's way of making hogshead cheese, and It can- not be improved upon. Salt Meat. Viande SalSe. Salt pork enters so largely into cooking that it will be unnecessary to devote special attention to it here. It is used in cooking cabbage in pork and beans' — a most excellent dish for children — and with nearly all green herbs and vegetables it serves as a delightful flavor. In the the chapter on vegetables, wherever it is advisable to use salt or pickled pork, this subject will be treated. Pickled Pork. Petit Sale. Coarse Salt Sufficient to malse a Brine. 12 Bay Leaves. 2 Dozen Onions. 23 Pounds of Pork. 1 Ounce of Saltpetre. 12, Cloves. 6 Allspice. Pork should be pickled about twenty hours after killing. It is pickled always in sufficient quantity to last for some time, for, if proper 106 care is taken, it will keep one year after pickling; but it may also be pickled in smaller quantities, of three or four pounds at a time, reducing other ingredients in the recipe ac- cording to quantity of pork used. To twenty-five pounds of pork, allow one ounce of saltpetre. Pulverize thoroughly and mix with a sufficient quantity of salt to thoroughly salt the pork. Cut the pork into pieces of about two pounds, and slash each piece through the skin, and then rub thoroughly with the salt and salt- petre mixture till the meat is thor- oughly penetrated through and through. Mash the cloves very fine and ground the allspice. Chop the onions. Take a small barrel and place at the bottom a layer of salt, then a layer of coarsely chopped on- ions, and sprinkle over this a layer of the spices and minced bay leaves. Place on this a layer of the pork; pack tightly; then place above this a layer of the salt and seasonings and continue with alternate layers of pork and seasonings till all the pork is used up. Conclude with a layer of the minced herbs and spices and have a layer of salt on top. Cover the preparation with a board on which a heavy weight must be placed to press down the meat. It will be ready for use in about ten or twelve days. HAM. jambon. Ham is one of the most useful ar- ticles of supply that can be kept in any household. The Creoles gene- rally keep a nicely boiled ham on hand. In case of unexpected com- pany for lunch or supper, the ham is always ready and sure to be ap- petizing. It forms combinations in many dishes, and is in itself a de- lightful breakfast dish and dinner entree. Boiled Ham. Jambon Bouilli. A Ham. 2 Blades of Mace. 1 Dozen Cloves. 4 Bay Leaves. Black Pepper and Paisley to Garnish. Wash the ham well in cold water, scraping oft all portions of mold or salt. Have a large boiler of water on the stove; or, better still, the furnace. Throw in two blades of mace, a dozen cloves and three or four bay leaves. Put the ham in the water and let the fire be slow. allowing the water to heat gradu- ally. Do not permit it to come to a good boil for two hours at least, and be careful to skim carefully, so that all rejected substances may not im- pregnate the ham. Keep it simmer- ing gently, allowing twenty minutes to every pound. When done, let the ham cool in its own liquor, and then put the ham on a board, cover with another board, and lay a weight over. Leave under weight several hours. This will enable you to cut the ham in thin slices after removing the weight. Then carefully remove the skin without taking off the fat. Sprinkle it in patches with black pepper and ornament the shank bone with quilled paper, or a paper frill. Serve it cold with a garnish of par- sley. Cold boiled ham should be sliced very thin and served with pickles and mustard. Fried Hnm. Jambon Frit. 8 Thin Slices of Ham. Pepper to Taste. Parsley to Garnish. Slice the ham thin. Heat the fry- ing pan very hot. Lay in the ham in its own fat and fry over a quick fire. The Creoles serve eggs nicely fried, with ham. Allow an egg to every slice of ham. After taking the ham out of the pan, drop in the eggs. If you do not like eggs fried on both sides (many prefer them so), baste the eggs with the hot grease, and be sure to cook the yolks whole. When they are well set, without be- ing hard, take the eggs out and lay one on each slice of ham. Garnish with parsley. Sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper very lightly and serve. This is a very popular Creole brealkfast dish. If eggs are not served with the fried ham, and a gravy is desired, malce one as follows: Take one ta- bleSpoonful of flour and add to the remaining fat in the pan. Mix weil until smooth. Add a half pint Of milk and stir until it boils; throw in a dash of black pepper, pour over the ham and send to the table hot. Broiled Ham. Jambon Grille. 6 or 8 Thin Slices of Boiled Ham. 6 or 8 Slices of Buttered Toast. Always use boiled hata for broiling. Slice it about a half inch thick, ac- cording to the number to be served, and trim off the rough edges. Have the broiler very hot, lay the slices of ham upon it and brown well. Serve with buttered toast. Broiled Ham With Cnenmber Gar- nisli. Jambon Grille aux Concombres. G or 8 Slices of Boiled Ham. Pepper. Cucumbers. Cut thin as many slices of ham as desired and broil evenly over hot coals. When well brown butter, add pepper, sprinkling, and serve with slices of cucumber that have been 107 steeped in salted vinegar several hours ranged around it. Ham Croquettes. Croquettes de Jambon. 2 Cups of Finely Chopped Boiled Bam. 2 Cups ot Mashed Potatoes. The Yolks ot 3 Eggs. 2 Tahlespoonfuls of Cream. 2 Tablespoonfula of Butter. A Dash of Cayenne. Chop the ham fine and add to the mashed potatoes. Then add the cream and butter and the yolks of two eggs, beaten well. Beat all to- gether until smooth, then add a dash of Cayenne. Mold the ham Into cyl- inder shapes of about a finger in length and roll in the beaten egs? that remains. Then roll In bread crumbs grated and fry In the boiling fat. Ham puffs are made in the same way, only the potatoes are omitted, and a stiff batter is used instead, made of one pint of flour and one of water, three eggs and four ounces of finely chopped ham. The ham is placed in the batter and fried In boiling lard to a golden brown. Ham SonHie. SoufSe de Jambon. 1 Cup ot Minced Ham. 3 -Eggs, Beaten With he Whites and Tolks Separate. 1 Teaspoonful of Finely Chopped Parsley. Pepper to Taste. Mix together the chopped parsley, ham and yolks of eggs and a dash of Cayenne pepper. Beat all very hard till it becomes light. Then add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a froth. Beat together sufficiently to mix well. Pill a dish and bake in an oven for eight or ten minutes and serve with a Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Boiled Bacon. Petit Sale BoullU. Proceed in e?cactly the same man- ner as for boiled ham. Filed Bacon. Petit Sale Frit. Cut into very thin slices, put In the frying pan and fry to a nice golden brown. This is a fine break- fast dish. Creole Sansage. Saucisses a la Crgole. It has been said by visitors to New Orleans that the Creoles excell all other cooks in preparing appetizing sausages.. From the old Creole ne- gresses, who go about the streets in the early morning crying out "Belles Saucisses!" "Belle Chaurice!" to the "Boudins" and "Saucissons" so tempt- ingly prepared by the Creole butchers in the French Market, the Creole sau- sage enters largely into domestic cookery and forms a delightful flav- or for many dainty dishes, especially of the vegetable order, while in the preparation of the famous "Jamba- laya," the "Chaurice," is one of the most necessary and indispensible in- gredients. Though sausages of any of these varieties may be bought in the French Market and other stalls daily, many of the ancient house- wives and cooks prefer to prepare their own sausages, and the follow- ing are the carefully compiled re- cipes. In making sausage, the Creole housewife generally prepares a suf- ficient Quantity to last several days. Chaurice. i Pounds of Lean, Fresh Pork. 2 Pounds of Fat Fresh Pork. -2 Large Onions, Minced Very Fine. 1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper and Chill Pepper (very hot.) 1 Teaspoonful of Red Pepper. 3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt. 2 Teaspoonfuls Finely Ground Black Pepper. 1 Sprig of Thyme, Well Minced. 3 Sprigs of Parsley, Finely Minced. 2 Bay Leaves, Chopped or Minced Very Fine. % Teaspoonful of iiUsplce, Very Fine. Hash the pork as fine as possible — fat and lean — and mix together. . Then season highly With the salt and black pepper and Cayenne, Chili and red pepper (pimento). This high seasoning distinguishes the Creole sausage from all others. Chaurice must be seasoned very hot, so do not fear to have too much red pepper. Mince the onion and garlic as fine as possible, then add to the Chaurice. Mince the herbs as fine as possible, and add, and then mix the finely ground spices thoroughly with the Chaurice. Hash all together, and when well mixed, take the casings (the Creoles always use the entrails of the sheep for this purpose) that have been well cleaned by the butch- er. Scald them and wash thorough- ly again. Dry them and fill with the mixture, tying them In the lengths you desire. Chaurice Is fried In boiling lard for breakfast, always having suf- ficient to have the sausage swim in It, and served, after draining of all grease, on a hot dish with minced parsley thrown over as a garnish. It is used most extensively in making "Jambalaya," and a few Chaurice thrown into the pot of boiling cab- bage or beans add greatly to the flavor. This is a distinctive Creole sausage and the very nicest and most highly flavored that can be eaten. 108 Cbiinrice With Purfie of Potatoes. Chaurice a. la Purfie de Pomines de Terre. 2 Pounds of Chaurice. 4 Irish Potatoes. 1 Egg, Well Beaten. Prick the sausages and lay them in the bottom of a pan. Make a soft Puree of Potatoes (see recipe) and pour this over the sausage. Then spread a beaten egg very evenly on top, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and place in the oven and let it bake a half hour. This is a nice breakfast or luncheon dish. Cliaurlce With Creole Sauce. Chaurice, Sauce &, la CrSole. 2 Pounds of Chaurice (about 6 to a pound.) 1 Clove of Minced Garlic. % Can of tomatoes. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt, 1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Large Onion. ^2 Spoon of Lard. Place a half teaspoonful of lard in the frying pan or stewpan, and when it heats, add the chopped on- ion. Let this brown slightly and tlien add the minced garlic. Then add the half can of tomatoes. As this /browns, put in the sausage which you have pricked gently. Cover and let them simmer for about five min- utes, then add the seasonings to taste. Add about a half cup of boil- ing water. Cover well and let all simmer for twenty minutes longer. This is very nice for breakfast. Saucisses. Saucisses, unlike Chaurice, are made from pork and beef mixed. Take ■" 2 Pounds of Lean Beef. 2 Pounds of Lean Pork. 1 Pound of Lean Veal. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. 2 Large Onions Minced Very Fine. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful Black Pepper. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. 3 Bay Leaves, Minced Very Fine. % Spoon Each of Ground Cloves, Mace, Allspice and Grated Nutmeg. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. Chop and hash the meat (fat and lean) very fine, mincing it, and then season highly with salt and pepper and Cayenne, mixing well. Add the minced onion and garlic, mix well, and then add the finely minced herbs and spices. Mix thoroughly and fill the casings which you have gotten from the butcher and washed again thoroughly. Fill them with the mix- ture, in lengths of about two feet or one foot and a half, stufHng tight- Ij'. Tie at both ends and let ' them stand overnight In a deep brine. It used for breakfast, take out as much as desired, wipe dry and cut into slices aT'd fry, or fry the sausage, the whole length. In boiling lard, and then slice nicely. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve. Saaclssona. Sauoissons are sausage made from the lean, fine flesh of the pork and the lilet of beef. Take 2 Pounds of Fresh Pork, Very Lean. 1 Pound of Fat. 2 Pounds of Filet of Beef. 1 Large Onloa. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. 1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt. 1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine. Vi, Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice, Cloves, and ^ Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful Each of Fine Herbs. 1 Clove of Garlic. Mince and hash the meat very fine, mixing the beef and pork and fat. Then season highly with the Cayenne, salt and pepper, mixing thoroughly. Season next with the minced onion and garlic; mix well, and then with the minced herbs and spices, mixing all thoroughly. Fill the casings, which are never very large for Sau- oissons. Tie them in sausages of about a finger in length, or three inches, and they are ready to be cooked. Saucissons are always fried in boiling lard' and served whole, placing several on each plate. Boudlns, Boudins are blood sausages and are much affected by the Creoles. Take 1 Pound of Hog or Beef Blood (1 pint.) 1^ Pound of Hog Fat. 2 Onions. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Season Hlglily. % Clove of Garlic. Mince the onions fine and fry them slightly in a small piece of the hog fat. Add the minced garlic. Hash and mince the remaining fat very fine, and mix it thoroughly with the beef blood. Mix the onions, and then season highly, adding of allspice, mace, clove and nutmeg a half tea- spoonful each, finely ground, and a half teaspoonful each of fine herbs. When all mixed, take the prepared casings or entrails and fill with the mixture, being careful to tie the sau- sage casing at the further end be- fore attempting to fill. Then tie the other end, making the sausage into strings of about two feet. Wash them thoroughly on the outside after fill- ing, and then tie again In spaces of three inches or less in length, being careful not to make too long. Place them to cook in a pot of tepid water, never letting them boil, as that would curdle the blood. Let them remain on the slow fire till you can pick the sausage with a needle and no blood will exude. Then take them out, let them dry and cool. Boudins are always fried in boil- ing lard. Some broil them, however. 109 Bondln Ulunc. 1 Pound of the White Meat of Fowl (left over.) 1 Pound of Lean Pork. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. 1 Pint of Cream. W Cup of Soft of Bread. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Vi Teaspoon of Ground Spices. Va CloTe of Garlic. 1 Onion. 1 Teaspoonful Caj-enne. Salt and Pepper, 1 Teaspoonful Each. Cut the meat and mince. Season highly with the salt and pepper and Cayenne. Add the minced onion ami garlic. Mix well with half a cup of the soft of bread, wet and squeezed well. Cook all for about fifteen minutes in one pint of cream. When reduced take off the stove, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, stir well and cool. Pill the prepared entrails and tie either end, and place them In a pot containi'ng half milk and half water. Boil them for about twenty minutes and then prick gent- ly, place in buttered papers and broil gently. The left-over of rabbit, chicken, turkey, partridge and other birds may be prepared in this man- ner, as also the left-over of craw- fish or crabs. This is a, Creole hors d'oeuvre. Chitterlings. Andouilles. 2 Pounds of Fat Port. 2 Pounds of Lean Pork 1 Pound of Inner Lining of Stomach of Hog. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 2 Large Onions. 1 Tablespoonful Each of Salt and Pepper. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne. 1 Teaspoonful of Chill Pepper. Ml Teaspoonful Each of llace, Cloves and Allspice, ground flue. 1 Tablespoonful Each of Minced Tkyme, Sweet Marjoram and Parsley. Select, the largest intestines of the hog, wash clean, disgorge and thor- oughly cleanse, and let soak for twen- ty four hours in fresh water, chang- ing the water frequently. Then drain and dry well. Cut them into threadlike pieces of about one inch in length, and hash the pork, lean and fat, together; mix thoroughly with the threads of intestines or In- ner stomach of the hog, and season highly with the salt, pepper and Ca- yenne and Chili pepper. Mince the onion and garlic and herbs as fine as possible and add to the meat. Add the ground spices, and mix and hash all together very fine. Take six or eight of the largs Intestines that have been thoroughly soaked and dis- gorged and fill these casings with the preparation, after scalding and drying the casings ^thoroughly. Tie into the desired lengths and use as desired. This is a very fat sausage and entirely too rich for delicate stomachs. When tied into large sau- sages about the size of the hand they are called "Andouilles." When tied into small sausages they are styled "Andouillettes." The latter are the more delicate. This sausage is gen- erally served with mashed potatoes, a puree of peas-, or lentils. The chit- terlings are first boiled in an aro- matic water, with an herb bouquet, or in milk; they are then broiled, or baked in the oven for eight or ten minutes. CHAPTER XVI. POULTRY. De la Volaille. Poultry of all kinds, especially chicken, furnishes the good cook with an infinite variety of delightful dish- es, which are, besides dishes that may grace the table of the people from the simple farmer or the Creole in his humble home, to the rich banker who can afford to serve them with truffles and mushrooms. Roast chidk.en, roast turkey, roast goose, roast duck are welcome dishes on every table. The entries that are made from poultry' are various, such as Turkey Daube, Fricassees of Chicken, with truffles, mushrooms, green peas, rice; Ragouts of Ducks, Chapons au Gros Sel, Poulardes a. la Sauce Tartare, Poulet Saut# a. la Cre- ole, all manner of croquettes and salads, and gdose entire a. la Chipo- lata. Full-grown poultry always has the best flavor. 110 Guides In Buying Poultry. In purchasing turkeys, if Intended to roast, select always a young gob- bler or a young turkey hen, the lat- ter being far preferable, as the meat is more tender and delicate. The turkey should always be fat, the flesh firm, the breast broad and flat and the skin fine and white. Turkey gobblers and hens that are not so young, may be cooked nicely in daube but roasting is the proper way to cook a turkey if you wish to bring out its flavor. The left-over turkey is always used by the Creoles in mak- ing Turkey Gumbo. (See recipe Gumbo Dlnde.) The shorter the neck the better will be the turkey. An old turkey hen always has purplish legs, and the gobbler, if young, will, have black legs and small spurs. But a gobbler is always larger than a turkey hen of the same age. In an old. gobbler the flesh is tough and strong ia fiber. An old gobbler can easily be told by its long spurs and purplish legs. In general, old turk- eys have long hairs, and the flesh is always purplish where it shows un- der the skin on the legs or back. These are infallible guides. In fol- lowing them the young housekeeper need never be imposed upon. About the month of March turkeys begin to deterioate in quality. Purchase chickens that are fat, with firm, fresh-looking flesh, fine skin and yellowish in color. A young rooster has small spurs, an old rooster large ones, and both the young rooster and young hen have smooth, soft legs and tender ^kln. The breast is soft and pliable and full, the feet moist and limbeT, the eyes full and bright. Old cfllckens are known by the opposite character- istics. A capon is alw^ays larger and fat- ter than the ordinary fowl, but it also makes far more delicate eating. For this reason the capon is always given the preference at fashionable feasts. A duck, to be good, must be young and fat, with light semi- transparent soft breastbone; the breast should be plump as ■well as fat. In the young duck one always finds that the under bill will break easily, and that the lower part of the legs and the webbing of the feet are soft and fresh colored, and that the windpipe breaks when pressed between the fingers. Ducks are best in fall and winter. Geese live to be very old. The greatest care must, therefore, be tak- en Ih buying a goose. Look for the same characteristics as in the young duck. A goose, to be fit for eating, must never be over three years old. The year-old goose is always the best. To positively determine the young goose examine the legs. They will be covered with a soft down and the flesh will be soft and yel- low. As the goose grows older the legs turn reddish or purplish In col- or, like those of the turkey. Guinea fowl, when young, make most delicious dishes either in Fric- assee or as Fintarde Saut£e. - The French discovered the value of the y young guinea fowl and the Creoles have improved on their methods of preparing it, making most delicious dishes a, la Cr€oIe. Young .pigeon or squab are pre- pared in a variety of deligliiful ways by Creole culsiniSres, gjld are wel- come dishes at thernost r6cherch6 feast, especially when prepared as Pigeons a. la C^apaudine, in which the pigeon is .:ro arranged as to rep- resent a young frog. The young pig. eon is easily known by the tender touch. HoTv to Clean Poultry. Cut off the head at the joint. To avoid needless pain, hang the tiirkey or chicken, or other fowl, up by the feet. The blood will then flow more freely and the fowl will die easier and quicker. Sca,lding is largely a matter of op- tion with-, the qook. An old fowl win pick much more easily and it does not injure the meat to scald an old turkey or chicken, but geese should never be, scalded nor a turkey that you intend to bone. Toung spring chickens are completely spoiled by having the flesh scalded or blanched. As soon as the fowl is dead pick off the feathers with a quick, steady jerk towards the tall. If you pull backwards you will be apt to tear the skin. After picking well and taking out all of the pin feathers, singe the fowl by putting paper in the fire and letting it blaze up. Pass the fowl backward and forward over the blaze and over and around, being careful not to burn the skin. Then proceed to clean the fowl, cutting off first the feet at the first joint, detaching the skin at the neck without breaking it, and drawing but whole the craw of the fowl. Cut oft the bleeding end of the neck and draw the skin over. Make a slit under the rump of the chicken Just large enough for you to draw out easily all the internal or- gans, .beinjg.,careful to feel your way, and very, very careful, indeed, not to break the gallbag' or any of the entrails. The contents of either ren- der the chicken most unpalatable if spilled over it. In this case be care- ful to wash the chicken immediately and thoroughly before the gall has time to penetrate far. After clean- nig out the chicken, rinse It inside and out and set' It in a cool place. Proceed to clean She giblets, cut the outer coat of the> gizzard and- draw Ill off unbroken the inner lining, con- taining' the' sand. Cat the gallbagr from the liver, being very careful not to break it; if you do, throw the liver away. Cut open the heart and remove all clotted blood. Geese, pigeons and birds of all kinds are cleaned in the same man- ner. Poultry should never be cooked un- til five or six hours after it has been killed, but it should be picked and drawn 3s soon as possible. Soda, being cl^%nsing, acts as a corrective and destroys that unpleasant taste which is frequently experienced in dressing when a fowl has been killed some time and allowed to remain with the intestines undrawn, as often happens with fowl or game purchased in city markets or stores. The flavor diffuses its£lf_ through the meat and renders it distasteful. In this case, after taking out the intestines, rinse the fowl inside and out in several waters. Then add a teaspoonful of baking soda to a quart of water and rinse again thoroughly. This pro- cess will neutralize all sourness and unpleasant taste. Having prepared your fowl, cook according to any of the following di- rections: TURKEY. Dfnde. The turkey hen is called "dinde," the turkey gobbler "dindon." The preference in eating, Is Taste. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard .or Battel. < This "is a splendid way of utlllzrng 127 tjie left-over veniaon. After having taken off all the rough edges of the roast and cut out the gristle and hard membrane, hash the "Venison in- to pieces of about one-inch in size. Take six left-over tomatoes, or fresh- ly boiled, and cut into Quarters. Chop fine one herb bouquet. Place a table- spoonful of butter or a half table- spoonful of lard into the stewpot, and as it melts add the venison, sea- soned well, and a few minutes later the fine herbs. Mince the clove of a garlic if the flavor is liked and add. Stir constantly vsritliout browning 'much, and add a tablespoonful of flour. Let this brown very slightly, and then add the tomatoes. Cover and let all simmer for about twenty minutes, and then pour over a pint of boiling water. Season again to taste and set back on the stove and let it simmer gently for about three- quarters of an hour. Cut some Crofl- tons and fry them in butter; place on a dish and serve with the hash. WILD TURKEY. Dinde Sauvage. The wild turkey abounds in Lou- isiana. It is roasted in the same man- ner as the domestic fowl (see recipe) and always served with Cranberry Sauce. (See recipe.) WILD DUCKS. Canards Sauvages. The wild ducks so much enjoyed in Louisiana are many, but the most fa- mous are the Canvasback Ducks, or "Canards Cheval," thS ipore delicate 'Teal Ducks," or "Sarcelles," and the noted Mallard Ducks, or "Ca- nards Frangais." Then we have a soecies of water fowl palled the "Poule d'Eau," or water chicken, which lives exclusively in the waters xjf the Louisiana bayous and marshes; as it never comes on dry land, it has heen classed by the ancient Creoles among the fish, and is eaten on Fri- days and fast days, when flesh meat Is . prohibited to Catholics. in following the recipes given be- low, it must be borne in mind that all tame or domestic ducks may be cooked in the same manner as the wild ducks. For this reason it would tie superfluous to give a special sec- tion te the former. But the flavor of the wild duck is such that it is al- ways preferred on Creole tables as the sTiperior bird. Ducks are stewed or roasted. The wild goose, or "Oie Sayvage," is cooked in the same man- ner as the wild duck and the domes- tic goose. The "Duckling," or "Can- neton," in the same manner as the delicate 'Teal Duck" or "Sarcelle." ' In cleaning all game, remember that they must be hand picked, and ne-irer scalded, as scalding utterly ruins their flavor. "Wild Duck should hot be dressed too soon after being killed. ■ 1 .1 I - -■ Canvasback Duck. Canard Cheval. Epicureans declare that the Can- vasback Duck Is the King of Birds. And as it feeds mostly on wild cel- ery, it requires no flavors or spices to make it perfect. The bird par- takes of the flavor of the celery on which it feeds. This delicious flavor is best preserved when the duck is roasted quickly with a hot fire. And so' also with the dainty Mallard or French Ducks. Mallard Ducks or Canvasback Ducks Roasted. Canards Frangais ou Canard Cheval Rotis. 1 Pair of "Wild Ducks. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean the d.ucks as you would a chicken, without scalding, however, ninse out the inside and wipe well inside and out with a wet towel. But do not wash the duck unless you have broken the gall bladder, as the washing destroys their flavor. Rub the inside well with salt and pepper, and rub outside as thoroughly. Place a three-inch lump of butter on the inside. Truss nicely and place the ducks in a baking pan, and brush the tops with melted butter. Pour over two tablespoonfuls of water, and set in a very hot oven, and allow them to bake twenty minutes, if they are not very large, and thirty minutes, if larger than the ordinary size of Canvasback ducks. A wild duck" is never cooked dry. It must reach the point where the blood will not run if the flesh is pierced with the fork in carving. When done, place the ducks in a very hot dish, and serve with their own gravy poured over them. Garnish nicely with parsley or water cress. Serve with Currant Jelly. Always have the plates very hot in which you serve the ducks at table. Broiled Canvasback Ducks. Canards Cheval Grillfies. 1 Pair of Ducks. 1 Tablespoonful of Olive OU. Salt and Pepper. Drawn Butter Sauce. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Minced Parsley to Garnish. The Canvasback Duck is very ex- cellent when broiled. Hunters often serve it thus when on long hunts, and it is said the taste of the game just bagged is beyond estimate. Broiled Canvasbacks are served as follows on the Creole table: Clean the duck nicely, as for broiling a chicken, wipe well and split down the middle of 'the back in the same manner as for a chicken. Season well with salt and pepper. Rub the 128 duck well with olive oil of the best quality, and place on the broiler. Turn it over at least twice, so that It will cook thoroughly through and through without burning'. Let it cook from seven to ten n^inutes on either side. Place on a dish that is very hot, pour over a Drawn Butter Sauce, in which you will have squeezed the juice of a lemon, and mixed some minced parsley. Deco- rate with water cress or parsley sprigs. Bring to the ' table covered 6,nd very hot, and serve on heated plates. This dish is very elegant. Stevrea 'Wild Ducks. Salmi de Canards Sauvages a, la Creole. 1 Pair of Ducks. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 2 Oniouia. 1 lablespoonful of Butter. 1 Glove uf Garlic. 1 Herb Bouquet Chopped Very Fine. 1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. Clean and pijk the duckp nicely. Cut into joints, or stew whole, as desired. The Creoles generally cut them into joints. Rub well with salt and pepper. Chop two onions very fine. Put them into the stewpan with a tablespoonful of melted but- ter, and let them brown slightly. Then add the well-seasoned ducks. Let these brown well and add the one square inch of finely minced ham. Add the clove of garlic and two sprigs each of thyme, parsley and one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let this brown with the ducks, stirring frequently, and then pour over one good glass 'of claret. Let this sim- mer for ten minutes, stirring con- stantly, so that it will not burn, and add one cup of boiling water. Sea- son well to taste, and let the ducks simmer well for about an hour. Ducks Stevved "With Muslirooms. Salmi de Canards aux Champignons. 1 Pair of Ducks. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. 1 Can of Mushrooms. Prepare the Ducks for cooking ex- actly as in the above recipe and pro- ceed to cook accordingly., Immedi- ately after adding the boiling water add' a can of mushrooms, and con- tinue cooking according to recipe. The mushrooms add a delicous flavor to the dish. Serve hot, using the mushrooms as a garnish. 'Vl'Ud Ducks, Hunters' Style.' Salmi de Canards Sauvages a, la Chasseur. ^ 2 Fine Canvas-Back Ducks. % Pint of 'Veal Broth or Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Dozen Mushrooms. Sliced, 3 Fresh or Canned Tomatoes. 1 Onion. % Glass of Madeira Wine or Lemon Juice. % Pl'jt of Sauce Espagnole. The Zest of 1 Lemon. Croutons. Pick the ducks; singe, draw, and, after rinsing clean within, wipe neat- ly within and without; cut off the wings, legs and breasts; then take the two carcasses and sprinkle right- ly with salt and place in the oven to bake about six minutes. Then re- move the carcasses and hash them up. Put them into the saucepan; add a pint of veal broth, consommfr or water in lieu of either of these. Add a herb bouquet tied together] and let the preparation simmer for about a quarter of an hour over a moderate fire. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and lay in the wings, breasts and legs of the Ducks; season lightly with salt and pepper, and set on a very brisk Are and let cook (or a few minutes, on either side. Now add a half glassful of Madeira wine and a half pint of Sauce Espagnole and the grated zest of a lemon. Take the gravy from the carcasses and strain over the Ducks, and allow all to cook about a quarter of an hour. Then place on a hot dish and decorate nicely wi,th Crofltons fried in butter and cut in dice shape. Ducks ft la Bonr^eoise. Salmi de Canards a. la Bourgeoise. 2 Fine Canvas-Back Ducks. 1 Tablespoonful, of Butter. 3 Tomatoes (fresh or canned). 12 Onions. 2 Carrots. % Glass of Madeira Wine. The Zest of 1 Lemon. Vi Pint of Sauce Espagnole. % Pint of Consomme or Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Pfepare the Ducks, ajid cook ac- cording to above recipe. After plac- ing finally in the saucepan, add ■ twelve small onions which have been nicely glazed (see recipe "Glaze"); add the two carrots cut into small dice and which have been cooked in salted water for two minutes, be- fore adding to the ducks; also add a half ounce of salt pork cut into half-inch pieces. Let these cook for fifteen minutes with the ducks and serve on a hot dish with Crofltons. Stewed Ducks 'Wlfh Turnips. Salmi de Canards aux Navets. 1 Pair of Ducks. 6 Turnips. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Onions, Chopped Fine. 1 Sqpare Inch of Ham, Minced Very Fine. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. This is one of the most delightful w^ys:"of cooking wild ducks. The turnip blends well with the flavor of the wi^d ducks, and a nicer way of serving this vegetable In combination, does not exist. Clean the Ducks, and. 129 cut into pieces at the joints. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the pot, and as it melts, add the onions, chopped fine. Let this brown, and then add the pieces of Ducks. Let them brown, and add the minced ham. Immediately after add the tur- nips, sliced or cut in quarters, a ta- blespoonful of sifted flour. Stir well, let the flour brown slightly, and add the minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and one clove of gar- lic, minced very fine. Stir well again, and let it smother for about fifteen minutes, stirring frequently, so that it will not burn. Then add water, almost sufficient to cover the Ducks, and stir well. Cover tight, and let the mixture smother for a halt hour longer. You will have one of the nicest dishes that ever graced a table. Wild Ducks Wltb Olives. Salmi de Canards aux Olives. 3 Cups of Left-Over Duck. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Onion. E Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Cup of Broth or Water. 1 Glass of Claret. 2 Dozen Spanish Olives. Toasted Croutons. This is a nice way to utilize the left-over Duck; take all the remains of the Duck and selcet the good parts, and cut them into pieces of about an inch and a half square. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the stewpan, and, as it browns, add one onion, chopped fine. Let this brown and then add the Duck. Stir well; add the tablespoonful of sifted flour, stir again, and in four or five minutes add two sprigs each of thyme and parsley and one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let this brown well, and smother nicely for about ten minutes. Add a pint of good broth if you have it; if not, a cup of boiling water. Stir well, and season again accord- ing to taste. Pour in a half glass of good Claret, and add about two dozen fine olives, stoned. Let all boil for thirty minutes longer, and serve hot, with garnish of diamond-shaped toasted Crofltons. Stewed Ducks, Peasant Style. Salmi de Canarcis a, la Paysanne. 1 Pair of Fine Ducks, French or Canvas-Back. 1 Dozen Glazed Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Cup of Green Peas. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. The Zest of 1 Lemon. Prepare the Ducks exactly as in the recipe for "Stewed Ducks With Turnips (see recipe), only the turnips are omitted. Add two carrots cut into dice pieces, and twelve glazed onions and the green peas. A quar- ter of an hour before serving add a glass of Madeira wine. Serve on a hot disli, with Crofltons fried in but- ter, using the onions as a garnish with the Crofltons. SteTved Ducks, French Marshal Style. Salmi de Canards a. la Marechale Pratisalse. 1 Pair of Fine Ducks, French or Canvas-Back, 12 Godlveau Quenelles. 12 Mushrooms. 2 Onions Chopped Fine. 1 Bay Leaf, 3 Sprigs EacU of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Square Inch of Ham, 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. Croutons to Garnish. Prepare the Ducks exactly as in the recipe for "Stewed Ducks With Turnips," omitting the turnips. Add ten minutes before serving, twelve small Godiveau Quenelles (see re- cipe) and the wine. Garnish the dish with Croutons (see recipe) and twelve nicely cooked mushrooms, cut in two. Send to the table hot. Cold Wild Duck. Canards Sauvages Froid. '• Remains of Cold Duck. , I 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. . 1 ■% Tumbler of Currant Jelly. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Port Wine. Cut the cold Wild Duck nicely in thick slices, and serve with a sauce made as follows: Take one table- spoonful of butter, one-half tumbler of Currant Jelly, and two tablespoon- fuls of good Port wine. Warm the butter in the saucepan, add the wine and jelly, thoroughly blended; mix well, and serve with the slices of cold duck. The duck may also be served very deliciously with Currant Jelly alone, and buttered toast. Teal Duck, J Sarcelle. The Teal Duck is the smallest and most delicate of the wild ducks. It is prepared in the same manner as the Mallard, preference, however, be- ing always given to roasting and 'broiling, on account of its size. The Teal Duck is always broiled whole, without splitting on the back. Teal Ducks Roasted. Sarcelles Roties. 3 Pairs of Teal Ducks. 6 Thin Strips of Bacon. 6 Truffles. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. 6 Slices of Toast. Currant Jelly. Clean the duck nicely and put ono 130 ,- truffle and a lump of butter about ' the size of a peanut, with salt and pepper, on the inside. Rub well with salt and pepper and a little butter melted. Take a thin strip of bacon and bind it around the body of the duck, fastening with a skewer. Place a, tablespoonful of butter in the roast- ing pan, and pour about two table- ' spoonfuls of water in it, dropping slightly over each bird. Set in a .•quick' o.Ven and bake for thirty min- utes, or until done. The l>ird should always be served umierdOne. Have ready • a hot dish, garnislied ■with parsley, and a slice of toast buttered for each bird. Place the I •birds on them, sprinkle over chopped parsley, and take the juice in which \ •'the birds have been roasted, pour 'a j little over each bird, so that It sinks i down into the toast, and squeeze a little lemon juice over each, and serve hot. ' The truffle majr be omitted, but it < ' is considered very elegant. The bird is just as good without, however, and it is within the reach of the ■ poorest, simply for the hunting. Serve ; with Currant Jelly. Teal Duck Broiled. Sarcelle Grillfie. 3 Paira of Teal Ducks. 6 Strips of Bacon. Melted Butter. Chopped , Parsley. Olives and Slices of Lemon to Garnlsli. 6 Slices ot Toast. Clean and prepare the duck in ex- actly the same manner as for- roast- : I Ing, binding with the strip of bacon. • Place on a broiler, turning frequent- ly, and let it broil for about thirty minutes, . very slowly. Serve with melted butter and chopped parsley' spread o^er, and the juice of a; lemon squeezed in. Garnish the dish nicely with sprigs of parsley, slices of lemon and olives. Serve with Currant Jelly. Teal Duck ft la Blgarade. Sarcelle S. la Bigarade.' 3 Fairs of Teal Ducks. 1 Brigarade or Sour Orange. Salt and Pepper to -Taste. A Sauce a I'Espagnole. Clean the ducks and take the livers and fry them in a little melted butter. Season well with salt and pepper and a slight pinch of ground allspice and ■ cloves and the zest of a "bigarade," or sour orange. If the orange is not available, take the zest of a lemon. The zest Is the skin of the orange or lemon, scraped off without touching the inner pulp, or white skin. Place this in the interior of the ducks (you imust have the boiled livers of five or six for the garnishment of two ducks), and then rub the outside well with salt and pepper. Bind 5 with a strip of bacon and place on the broiler. In about thirty rajnutej it win be done. Cook over a slow fire, turning frequently. In the mean- time prepare a "Sauce k I'Espagnole," and as soon as the birds are done pour off from the broiler all the juice that has fallen, and put this into the sauce, with the juice of two sour oranges or citrons. Let it warm with- out boiling, pour over the birds, which you have placed on buttered toast, and serve hot. This is an ancient Creole dish, almost lost in our day, but which deserves to be resurrected. Stewed Rabbit. Salmi de Lapins. A Fair ot Rabbits. 2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Tablespoonful ot Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 1 Glass of Claret. ' 1 Cup of Water. 1 Can of Mushrooms. Stewed rabbit is a great dish kmong the Creoles. They say that this is the only way to cook a rab- bit. Proceed as follows: Skin and clean the rabbit. Wash well and cut into pieces at the joints, and rub well -with salt and pepper. Chop two onions very fine, and put them in the stew^pan -with a table- spoonful of melted butter. Let them brow^n slightly; then add the rabbit. Let it brown slightly, and then adct one tablespoonful of flour, and let this brown a little. Chop the square inch of ham very fine, mincing it, and add. Then add the clove of gar- lic, and tw^o sprigs each of thyme and parsley and a bay leaf, minced fine. Let this brown nicely, and pour over one glass of good Claret. Let this cook for ten minutes, stirring it constantly, so that it will not burn, and then add one cup ot boiling wa- ter. Stir well, season again to taste, and let it boil for thirty minutes, and serve hot. Green peas or potatoes, boiled or mashed, make a nice entrSa for this dish. Rabbit, Hunters' Style. Lapin k la Chasseur. A Pair of Rabbits. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Onion. 1 Slice of Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs ot Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. % Box ot Mushrooms. The Zest of a Lemoli. Vi Bottle of Claret Wine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Croutons to Garnish. Prepare the rabbit; clean and ■dra-w, and cut into pieces at the joints. Rub well with salt and pep- per; put a tablespoonful of butter into the saucepan with the rabbit and let it brown slowly. When nearly brown, add the onion, chopped fine, and let this brown sjightly. Then add the ham, minced very fine, and the clove and garlic ahd bay leaves and thyme, minced very fine. Stir with the rabbit, and let these brown for about two minutes; then add a tablespoonful of flour and brown for a .few minutes; add a half bottle of Claret wine and let all simmer for five minutes; then add a quart of conso-mm6 or water, an-d let all cook for about one hour. Season accord- ing to taste. Add a half can of mushrooms, chopped fine, and the iest of a lemon and again season to taste. Let all cook for a half hour longer and serve on a hot dish, with Crotttons. fried In butter. Rabbit en Matelote. Lapin en Matelote. A Pair of Rabbits. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Lard or Butted. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Floor. ' 6 Fresh, Large Tomatoes, or a Half Can. 1 Large Onion, Chopped Fine. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Sweet 'Marjoram, Parsley and Bay Leaf. t Glass of Good Claret, or the Juice of 1 ' Lemon. 1 Quart of Water or Consomme. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Bash pt Cayenne. Skin, clean, wash and out the rab- bit into pieces at the joints. Put the lard or butter into a deep stewpan or kettle. When hot, add gradually two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring con- stantly to prevent burning. Throw in about ten or twelve well-mashed allspice, and three sprigs each of chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjoram, one clove of garlic, and one large onion, chopped very fine. Add six fresh large tomatoes, chopped fine, or one-half can of to- matoes. Pour in one glass of good claret, add about one quart of water, and let it boil well. Then add salt and Cayenne to taste, and, when this has boiled about five minutes, add the rabbit, putting in piece by piece. Add the Juice of a lemon, and let all boil about ten minutes. Serve with French Pried Potatoes, Mashed Pota- toes, or Potato Croquettes. HARB. L16vre. The hare and the rabbit are very much alike, the . closest relationship existing between the two. The prin- cipal difference is that the rabbit is smaller in size than the hare, and its ears and legs are shorter. [ The hare may be cooked In almost any manner in which rabbits are served. There are, however, some special methods in vogue among the Creoles which are here appended. In preparing the hare for roasting, it should be first skinned, and then washed well in cold water and rinsed thoroughly in tepid water. If the hare seems a little musty from beini emptied before being hung up, rul the insides well with vinegar and again wash thoroughly In warm wa- ter. Prepare for cooking as you would a rabbit, wipe well with a soft towel, dress nicely, sew the animal up and truss it, and allow it to roast from three-quarters of an hour to one hour, according to size. Baste occasionally with butter, just before serving. Of late, the hare is much affected by epicures. Many con- sider the meat far more tender and of more deHcate flavor than the rab- bit. It is generally served with Cur- rant Jelly. Hare, Roasted and Stuffed. LiSvre Koti. 2 Fine Hares. 3 Onjons. 1 Carrot. 3 Apples. 2 Ou&ces ot Sausage Meat. 6 Mushrooms. 1 Lemon. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 ClOTes. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Glass of White Wine or Cider. 1 Pint of Consomme. ' 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Slices ot Bacon. % Tablespoonful ot Pepper, ^ Tablespoourul of Salt. Croutons. Select two fine Hares, and cut them in half. Separate the hindquar- ters from the fore and then bone them down to the legs. Do not bone the legs. Place the Hares in an earthern dish that is quite deep, then make a marinade as follows: Pour in a glassful of white wine; add a small lemon nicely sliced, and a small onion minced fine, one sprig of thyme and one bay leaf, all minced very fine. Season this preparation with a tablespoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of pepper and two mashed cloves. Take the saddles of the Hares and roll them well in this,, and let the entire Hares steep well in the marinade for twelve hours. Chop an onion very fine and put it In a saucepan on the stove, and, when well heated, put in a table- spoonful of butter, cook for one min- ute, and then add two ounces of fine chaurice (sausage) (see recipe); chopped very fine; six mushrooms, chopped very fine; a teaspoonful of minced parsley, a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper; mix well and let all cook for about five minutes. Take three fine apples and cut them fine, carefully remov- ing the cores; place them in a clean saucepan .on the fire, with a half glassful of good White Wine or the best Cider. Let this boil about five minutes, and then add the stuffing and mix well together. Then set the mixture to cool. Take the . Hares from the marinade and stuff tha 132 boned saddles very carefully and evenly, and give a nice round, even shape; tie them' to keep tKem firm; then place a fine slice of bacon over each saddle, tying firmly. Cut up a carrot and onion into fine slices and place in the bottom of the roasting pan; lay the Hares over these and pour one pint of consommg over the Hares. Place them in a hot oven and roast for three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently with their own gravy. Then remove from the oven and untie. Place the Hares on a hot dish nicely decorated with dice- shaped Crofltons, and pour the gravy over the Hares and serve very hot. Hare, . Creole Style. Civet de LiSvre a. la Creole. 1 Fine, Tender Hare 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Large Onion. 1 Dozen Small Onions^ 3 Tomatoes. 1 Ounce of Minced Ham. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. % Glass of White Wine. % Glass of Red Wine. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Salt. 1^ Tablespoonfuls of Pepper. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. Skin, clean, draw and thoroughly wash a fine tender Hare. Preserve the liver and heart. Cut the Hare Into pieces at the joints. Make a marinade by taking a half glass of White "Wine, one large finely-sliced onion, the thyme and bay leaves (finely minced), and place in a stone jar. Add a, half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and a tablespoonful of salt, and place in this mixture the cut-up Hare, and let all steep for six hours. Then lift the pieces out carefully; have 1-eady a saucepan into which you will have placed a tea- spoonful of butter, and add twelve small onions, glazed (see recipe); one ounce of ham, minced fine; put the Hare into the pan and let all brown nicely for about ten minutes. Then add the flour, finely rubbed, stir well and let brown. Add the toma- toes, peeled and sliced fine; let all brown ten minutes longer, and add the red wine and the consomm§ or water. Stir till it begins to boil; then season according to taste, with salt and pepper. Let all cook for three quarters of an hour, and add the heart and liver, which you will have finely chopped and thoroughly mixed together. Let all cook for a quarter of an hour longer and serve with toasted Crofltons. Stewed Bare With Onions. Gibelotte de LiSvre. 1 Fine Hare. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Large Onion. 1 Dozen Small Onlonj. 1 Ounce of Ham. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 1 Glass of White W^ine. % Can of Mushrooms. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare in exactly the same man. ner as above indicated, only do not use the tomatoes or red wine; use instead of the claret, one pint of broth or consommfi, and add a half can of mushrooms about ten minutes before serving. Filet of Hare, Sauce Polvrade. Filet de Lifivre, Sauce Poivrade. 2 Fine Hares. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. A Half Glass of White Wloe. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. 1 Cup of Broth or Water. Sauce a la Polvrade, Take two fine Hares, clean neatly and cut the filets neatly from the rack. Lard the surface carefully with fine needles. Season well with salt and pepper. Make a marinade witti half a glass of White wine, one onion and one carrot, minced very fine. Let all steep together for two hours; then place the butter or lard in a baking dish, ■with an onion and carrot, sliced fine. Put the filets of Hare over this and set in the oven and let it cook for a half hour. Baste frequently with the Hare's own juices. Place the filets "on a hot dish, add a table- spoonful of broth to the* gravy ia which the Hares were cooked; let all come to a boil on the stove; strain the gravy and pour over the filets. Bring to the table hot and serve with a Sauce a, la Poivrade. SteTfed Squirrel. Salmi d'ficureuil. A Pair of Squirrels. 2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. ' 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 1 Clove of Garlic, Chopjed Very Fine. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. 1 Can of Mushrooms. Skin and clean the Squirrels; wash well and cut into pieces at the joints. Chop two onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with a table- spoonful of melted butter. Let them brown slightly; then add the Squir- rel. Let it brown slightly, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, and let this brown a little. Chop the- .square inch of ham very fine, mlnclng- It, and add. Then add the clove of garlic, and two sprigs each of thym& 133 and parsley and a bay leaf, minced fine. Let this brown nicely, and p^ of a Pound ef Salt Pork. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4 Cloves. % Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Herb Bouquet. 137 1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Broth (White). 1 Pint of Beef Broth or Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean the partridges, selecting large and older partridges in prefer- ence to the young. Clean, singe, draw and wipe well. Then truss them neatly, rub with salt and pepper and butter and place in a roasting pan. In the meantime take a fine, tpnder head of cabbage, clean thoroughly and cut into foui parts. Wash the ■cabbage well in cold water and put into boiling salted water for five minutes. Then take the cabbage out of the water and drain well; make a hollow in the center of each piece of cabbage; place within the par- tridges, cover with the other pieces and tie together. Put in a saucepan the quarter of a pound of salt pork which has been yyell scalded and washed of all salt and cut into six slices. Add one carrot cut, into four pieces, one whole onion into which you will have. £.LUck four cloves, the herb bouquet, the sausage and one pint each of white veal broth or chicken broth, and one pint of water or beef broth. Season with a small pinch of salt, and a good pinch of pepper, and place the cabbage in this preparation. , Put the partridges in the oven and let them roast for ten minutes. Then remove and taku the cabbage from the mixture, make a hollow in the center of the cabbage, place within the partridges and cover with the remaining portion of cabbage; tie each half separately together; then return to the saucepan, placing a piece of buttered paper over to keep all air from escaping. Put the lid on the saucepan, set in the oven and let the partridges cook thus for an hour. Remove the lid and paper, skim off all that may adhere to the surface^ drain the cabbage and slice; dress neatly on a hot dish. Untruss the partridges and lay them on the cabbage, placing on each dressed sec- tion a piece of sliced boiled pork, a sausage cut in half; slice the car- rots nicely in round pieces, and use these as a decoration, placing them artistically around the dish. • Strain the sauce in which the partridges were cooked and let it reduce slight- ly. Serve with the cabbage and par- tridge, bringing it to the table in a separate bowl and pouring over the cabbage when serving. Chartreuse of PartrldgC' Chartreuse de Perdrix. 3 Fine Partridges. A Fine Tender Head ot Cabhage. 12 Chanrice (Sausage). % Pound of Salt Pork. 3 Small Onions. 2 Turnips. 2 Carrots. 4 Cloves. IH Tablespoon fiils of Butter. % Cup of Green Peas. 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Broth. 1 Pint of Consomme. % Pint of Demi Glace, or Madeira Sauce. Prepare the partridges and ' cab- bage exactly as foT the recipe „Par- tridges and Cabbage." Butter a three-pint mold lightly; cut the turnips, carrots and onion in- to small even pieces, using a vege- table tube; put a layer of the cut vegetables in the bottom of the mold; lay on top a layer of the cooked cab- bage, cut the pariridges into pieces and place a layer of them on the cabbage, filling in the hollow spaces with cabbage chopped fine and the chopped vegetables; fill in further with the sliced sausage and lay on top six slices of the salt pork; then place another layer of the partridges, fill in the hollow places with the sliced turnips and carrots and onions and the sausage; place on top anoth- er layer of cabbage, covering the top well with the cabbage and press- ing down very carefully; decorate the mold prettily around , the edges with the sliced carrots and turnips and place in a tin baking pan and set in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Have at hand a hot dish turn the mold upside down and care- fully draw it off the preparation. Send to the table hot and serve with Demi Glace, or Madeira Sauce. (See recipe.) Breasts of Partridge, Truffle Sauce. Supreme de Perdreaux, Sauce PSri- gueux. 3 Fine Toung Partridges. 3 TrufSes. 12 Mushrooms. 1^ Glass of Madeira Wine. 2 Ounces of Chicken Forcemeat. A Pint of Sauce a la Hollandaise. 2 Gills of White Wine. Clean, singe, draw and wipe the partridges carefully. Then remove the skin from the breasts. By a delicate manipulation with a very sharp small knife make an incision on the top of each breastbone from end to end and cut off the entire breast, including the wing bone, from the carcass. Carefully remove the small filet which lies under each breast and place on a dish aside for further use. Then cut an incision two inches square and 1 inch in depth into each breast, on the inner side. Rub well with salt and pepper, and stuff the incision with two ta- blespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat, to which has been added six finely- chopped mushrooms and two thinly- sliced truffles. Butter the inside of a tin saucepan and lay the six breasts very carefully within. Then take each of the bix small filets that have been laid aside; rub them well with salt and pepper and make a small incision on the top 138 of each and place within a thin slice of truffle and brush lightly with melted butter. Lay these fllets light- ly on top of each of the breasts, and again brush lightly with melted but- ter. Tliese filets and breasts thus arranged constitute supremes. Pour into the pSn a half glass of Madeira wine and two tablespoonfuls of the chicken liquor, cover the pan tightly and place in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Take one pint of Hollandaise Sauce, add one finely-minced truffle and a half dozen minced mushrooms and two gills of White Wine. Place the sauce in a saucepan of hot boiling water and let the sauce heat ivell without boiling. jr-our this sauce into a hot dish and then take the pan with the partridges out of the oven, remove tlie breasts and filets, or "Supremes," place them on the dish with the sauce, garnish nicely with Croiltons and send to the table hot. QUAIL. Cailles. The quail is a most delicious and tempting bird. It delights the most fastidious, and that famous prepara- tion, *'Quail on Toast," or "Cailles sur CanapSs," is a dish that no great dining is considered complete with- out, when quail a^e in season. We have two kinds of quail, the blue and the yellow spotted, or pi- v61e. Both are excellent. If pur- chased in the market or city stores, see that the skin is clear and the breasts full and render. The quail is either broiled or roasted, follow- ing exactly the same directions given in the recipes for broiling and roast-' ing. In broiling, allow from twelve to fifteen minutes. In roasting, from twenty to twenty-five. Always cook slowly on a slow fire. / Ronsted dnall. Cailles Roties. C Quails. 1 Talilespoontul of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Water. The Juice of ] Lemon. 6 Slices of Toast. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs, or Water- cress to Garnish. Select six fine, fat, tender quail. Pick, singe, clean and wipe them well. Butter the inside of each quail nicely and sprir.Jcle lightly within with salt and pepper. Rub lightly on the outside with butter, theh truss the bird and bind the body round with a thin strip of bacon. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a rdasting pan and set the birds in the pan and cook in the oven from twenty to thirty minutes, according to size. Have ready the buttered toast. Place on a hot dish, lay a bird on each slice of toast. Add a little butter to the gravy in which the quails have been roasted, a ta- blespoonful of water and the juice of one lemon. Let , this cook for three or four minutes, strain and set on the stove for two minutes longer and pour over the breast of the birds so that it will soak into the bread. Garnish the dish nicely with -parsley and sliced lemon or sliced lemon and watercress, and send to the table hot. When served with a garnish of watercress the dish is called "Cailles aux Cressons." Quail Roasted In Grape Lenve», Cailles de Laurier aux Peuilles de Vifeues. 6 Pine Quails. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Water. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 12 Gi-ape Leaves. Green Grape Jelly. Follow the directions given in the above recipe for roasting quails, only do not wrap the quails in strips of bacon. Instead rub the bodies well ■with butter and then envelop the birds in fresh grape leaves; set in a baking pan and proceed to roast ac- cording to the directions given above. Garnish a dish nicely with fresh young grape leaves, place the quails on slices of toast and lay upon the leaves and send the dish to the table hot. Serve the quails with Green Grape Jelly. This is, of course, a rare dish, and can only be served at the season when the grape vine is in leaf. It Is much affected at such times by epicures, but it is a dish within the reach of any who may have a grape vine near. The grape leaves impart a very peculiar and grateful flavor to the quail Rouated Mtuail. Cailles de Laurier Roties. 6 Fine Tender Quails. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Water. 6 Truffles. 8 Thin Strips of Bacon. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. To make this delicious dish, clean the quail and butter inside and throw in a little salt ana pepper. Stuff with truffles, and bind the body, after rubbing, with a strip of bacon. Set in the oven in a baking pan in which you have placed a, tablespoonful of butter, and let it roast twenty or thirty minutes, according to size. Have ready buttered toast. Put the birds on the toast. Add a little but- ter to the gravy in which they have been roasted, and a tablespoonful of water, and the iuice of a lemon. Let this cook for three or four minutes, strain, set on tne stove for two minutes longer, and pour over the 139 breast of the bird, so that it will soak into the bread, and serve with a nice garnish of parsley and sliced lemon, and with green peas as an entree. Broiled Quail on Toast. Cailles Grillfees' sur Canapfes. 6 I'ine Fat Quails. 6 Strips of Bacon. 2 Isblespooufuls of Butter. G Slices of But- tered Toast. The Juice of 1 Lemon. ■Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. Bub the bird -well with salt and pepper, and then with melted but- ter. Tie a strip of very finely-sliced bacon around the body of the bird, joining with a BKewer, and place on a broiler over a slow fire,, and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, or even thirty minutes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequently, so that it may cook well without burning. When done take off the broiler. Have ready always but- tered French toasts, and place the birds upon them, allowing a slice of toast for each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. It is a matter of taste whether the strip of bacon be removed or not. But at the most elegant dinings in Creole New Orleans it is retained, being removed at the table by the person to whom it is served, the hot bacon keeping the bjrd hot, juicy and ten- der. Always pour over the bird a lit- tle of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter anu chopped parsley, and lemon juice, if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot. aualls Broiled With Bacon. Cailles GrillSes et BardSes. 6 Fine Fat Quails. 1 Tablcspoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. % Tablespoonful of Pepper. 6 Slices of Bacon. 6 Slices of Toast. 2 Tablespoontuls of Sauce a la ilaltre d'Uotel. Watercress and Sliced Lemon to Garulsb. Clean the quails, singe and wipe well. Split them through the back without separating the breast and break the leg bones. Rub well with salt and pepper and a little melted butter, mixed together, and put the Quails on a broiler and let them broil on a moderate fire for fifteen minutes, allowing seven and a half minutes to either side, and turning frequently , to prevent burning. Have ready a hot dish with six slices of buttered toast, lay the quail on top and pour over a little melted butter (Sauce t, la Maitre d'Hotel), and then deco- rate the dish with parsley sprigs, on which lay six nicely broiled slices of breakfast bacon. Smothered Q.uall. Cailles BraiSs£es. a Fine Fat Quails. % Carrot. H of an Onion. % Cupful of Water. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper tp Taste. 6 Thin Strips of Bacon. Select fine fat quails, clean, singe and wipe well. Truss neatly and cover with a thin layer of bacon. Then place two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan; place the quails in the pan; add half of an onion and carrot minced very fine, cover and let the quails brown to a nice golden color. Then moisten with a half cup of water and set tne pan in the oven. Cover with buttered paper and let the quails cook for twenty minutes. Serve on a hot dish nicely garnished with parsley sprigs or lettuce leaves. Braised Quails, Celery Sauce. Cailles Braissfees t la Sauce CSleri. Proceed to clean and cook the quails as in the recipe given above and serve with a pint of hot Celery Sauce (see recipe) poured over. Quails Braised H la Financiere. Cailles B,raiss6es a. la Financigre. Braise the quails as in the recipe for "Braised Quails," and serve with a pint of hot Sauce a. la Financlfiro poured over. WOODCOCK. BScasse. The "Bficasse" is a rare bird. It is in season from December till April. In purchasing see that the skin is clear, the breasts firm and plump and the wings tender to the touch. Pluck and clean, but never draw these birds. The olden epicurean ideas of Creole cookery forbid this. If you were to serve the Bfioasse to an old Creole bon vivant without the entrails he' woula consider it quite shocking, and his indignation would vent itself Immediately in unmistak- able terms. The "B6casse" is always broiled or roasted and .served on but- tered French toast. If roasted, al- ways put, if you can, one truffle in the body as a stuffing, and when serving a little melted butter on top of the breast. Roast Woodcock on Toast. B§casses Roties sur Canap6s. 6 Fine Woodcock. , Slices of Buttered Toast. 6 Strips of Bacon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Lent. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Wa- tercress to Garnisb. Prepare the birds as in the "In- variable Rule for Roasting Birds." (See recipe.) Rub with salt and pepper and melt- ed butter. If you can afford it, put 140 a truffle in each bird for stuffing, and in all put a little lump of but- ter and a little salt and pepper, a pincb of chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and a amaU pinch of the four spices, but very, very small, indeed. Truss neatly. Bind with strips of bacon, and place in a baking pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them bake or roast thirty min- utes or less, accoralng to size; re- move from the oven and place on buttered French toast on a hot dish, cover and set over a pot of boiling water to keep warm. Prepare ^ravy by simply adding a tables- poonful of water to the gravy made when cooking the birds, let it cook for two minutes; then strain; let it cook for two minutes more, and pour upon the breast of the bird so that it will soak down into the toast. Garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and lemon, and serve hot. Broiled Woodcock on Tonst. BScasses GrillSs sur Canapgs. 6 Fine Fat Woodcock. 6 Slices of Buttered French Toast. 6 Fine Strips of Breakfast Bacon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Parsley Sprigs. and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Prepare the birds by hand picking. Singe and wipe well. Rub the bird well with salt and pepper, and then with merted buttsr. Tie a strip of very finely-sliced bacon around the body of the bird, joining with a skicwer, and place on a broiler over a slow lire, and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, or even thirty min- utes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequently so that it may cook Tvell without burning. When done take oft the uroiler. Have ready always buttered ir-rench toasts, and place the birds upon them, allowing a slice of toast iror each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. Always pour over the bird a little of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and lem- on juice, if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot. In cooking, and in serving, follow the "Invar- iable Rule for Broiling Birds." (See recipe. SNjlfB. BScassine. The snipe is one of our finest birds, and is much sought after by epicures. But the glory of our Louisiana for- ests is that the rich gifts of nature may be had by the poor as well as the millionaire. The Bfioassine is a welcome dish at the most exclusive tables. It is a winter bird, and is with us from December till April, as also the "B&- casse," or "Woodcock." If you tell an old. Creole that you are going to treat him to "BScassines" or "Bg- casses," he will smack his lips and say: "Ah! you are a connoisseur." "Bfcassines" are either roasted or broiled; follow implicitly the direc- tions given in the rules for broiling and roasting birds. Serve in the same Inanner, with a garnish of cresses or parsley, and always on buttered French toasts. In selecting snipe, 'see that the flesh is clear and firm and the breastu full and tender. Roast Snipe on Toast. B^cassines Roties sur Canapfis. 6 Fine Snipe. 6 Slices of Buttered French Toast. 6 Strips of Bacon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay' Leaf. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Wa- tercress to Garnish. Prepare the birds as in the "In- variable Rule Iol Koasting Birds." Rub with salt and pepper and melt- ed butter. If you can afford it, put a truffle into each b>ra for stuffing, and in all put a little lump of butter and a little salt and pepper, a pinch of chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and a small pinch of the four spices, but very, very small, indeed. Bind with strips' of bacon, and place in a baking pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them roast thirty min- utes or less, according to size, then remove and place always on but- tered French toast on a hot dish, and cover and set over a pot of boil- ing water to keep warm and juicy. Meanwhile prepare a gravy by sim- ply adding a tablespoonful of wa- ter to the gravy made in cooking ' the birds; let it cook for two min- utes; then strain; let it cook for .two minutes moru and pour a little upon the breast or each bird so that it will soak down into the toast. Garnish nicely with sprigs of par- sley or watercress and slices of lem- on, and serve hot. Broiled Snipe on Toast. BScassines Grillfies sur Canapfis. 6 Fine Fat Snipe. C Slices of Buttered French Toast. 6 Strips of Bacon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Prepare the bird by hand picking, singing and trussing neatly, follow- ing the "Invariable Rule for Broil- ing Birds." (See recipe.) Rub the bird well with salt and pepper, and then with melted but- ter. Tie a strip of very finely-sliced bacon around the body of the biriii Joining with a skewer, and place on la broiler over a slow fire, and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, 141 or even thirty minutes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequent- ly, so that it may coolt well without burning-. When Cone take off the broiler. Have ready always buttered French toasts, and place the birds upon them allowing a slice of toast for each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. It is a matter of taste whether the strip of bacon be removed or not. Always pour over the bird a little of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and lemon juice if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot. Grassets, Reed Birds, Robins, Larks, Broiled or Roasted, Grassets, Ortolans, Grives, Alouettes, Grillfies ou Rotis. 6 or 8 Birda. 6 or 8 Slices of Toast. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 6 or 8 Strips of Bacon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Wa- ter cress to Garnish. Grassets, Reed clrds, Robins and Larks are delight? jl small game that come in the summer. They are with us from July, through October. The Reed Birds, or Ortolans, are the ter- ror of the rice planters of Louisiana. They peck at the r:oe and spoil the growth, and are, consequently, shot In this season, when the rice is ma- turing, in order to rid the rice fields of their presence. ■ They are delicate eating, as are also the Louisiana Robins, Larke, and the Grassets, which latter are fat, plumpy birds of the Robin order. The name Gras- set is given to indicate fatness and plumpness. These birds are always broiled or roasted, following the in- variable rules laid down above. They should be broiled over a clear fire, and do not require much more than five minutes to broil; ten minutes to roast in a quick oven. Serve whether broiled or roasted, on but- tered French toast, and garnish with cresses of parslej sprigs. All these little birds should be broiled "en bro- chette," that is, a skewer should be run through the body. Salt and pep- per after, and pour melted butter and chopped parsley over them. If roasted, they may be served with a brown gravy. POUL,ES D'EAU. Poules d'Eau. 2 Pair of Ponies d'Eau. 6 Turnips. 1 TaBIespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoontul of Flour. 2 Onions, Chopped Fine. 1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Fine. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and -Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. The Poule d'Eau is a species of water duck resembling both a chick- en and a duck. The Creoles gave it the name of "Poule 'd'Eaux," or "Wa- ter Chicken." As it lives entirely in the water and marshes, never coming on dry land, it is classed by the Cre- oles among the fish and served as a Friday or fast-day dish. It makes a very delightful entrfie, either stewed plain or with turnips. It is never cooked in any other way. As it feeds much on fish, it often has the flavor of fish. In the hands of an inexperienced cook it is sometimes unpalatable on that account. Be- fore cooking parboil a few minutes if there is the slightest odor of fish; add a small peeled carrot or onion to tha wat^r, and this will absorb the flavor of fish. Steered Ponies d'Enu. Poules d'Eau a, la Creole. 1 Pair of Poules d'Eau. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water.' 1 Can of 'Mushrooms, Clean and pick the Poules d'Eau nicely. Cut into Joints or stew whole, as desired. The Creoles gen- erally cut them into joints. Rub well with salt and pepper. Chop two on- ions very fine. Put them into the ste;wpan with a tablespoonful of malted butter, aad let them brown slightly. Then add the well-seasoned ducks. Let these brown well, and add the one square inch of finely minced ham. (Omit the ham on fast days.) Add the clove of garlic and two sprigs each of thyme, parsley and one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let this brown with the Poules d'Eau, stirring frequently, and then pour over one good glass of claret. Let this simmer for ten minutes, stirring constantly so that it will not burn, and add one cup of boiling water. Season well to taste, and let them simmer well for about an hour. Serve hot with Crofltons for a gar- nish. Stewed Poules d'Eau With Turnips. Salmi de Poules d'Eau aux Navets. 1 Pair of Poules d'Eau. 6 Turnips. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Onions Chopped Fine. 1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Very i;in6. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. This is the most delightful way of cooking Poules d'Eau. The turnip blends well with the flavor, and a nicer way of serving this vegetable in combination does not exist. Clean the Poules d'Eau and cut into pieces at the joints. Put 142 a tablespoonful ot butter into the pot, and as it melts add the onions, chopped fine. Let this brown and then add the pieces of Poules d'Eau. Let them brown, and add the minced nam. (Omit the ham on fast days.) Immediately after add the turnips, sliced or cut in quarters, and a tablespoonful or sifted flour. Stir well, let it brown slightly, and add the minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and one clove of garlic, minced very fine. Stir well again, and let it smother for about fifteen minutes, stirring frequently, so that it will not burn. ' Then add water almost uffflcient to cover the Poules d'Eau, and stir well. Cover tight and let the mixture smother for a half hour longer. You will have one of the nicest dishes that ever graced a table. Game Pie. Pat§ de Gibier. 1 Dozen Small Birds. 1 Dozen Eggs. A Rieli Pie Crust. 1 Dozen Haid-Boiled Eggs. 2 Cups of Egg Dressing. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take one dozen small birds. Snipe, Quail, Woodcock, etc., and clean well, inside and out. Stuff each one with a dressing the same as for turkey, using either egg or oysters as de- sired. Loosen the joints with a knife but do not separate them. Put them in a stewpan, with water enough to cover them ,and let them cook till nearly tender. Then season with salt and pepper again and t-wd table- spoonfuls of butter. Thicken the gravy with one tablespoonful of flour, let cook for ten minutes more and then remove and set to cool. Butter a pudding dish and line the sides with a rich pie crust (see recipe). Have ready the hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices. Put in a layer of the eggs and a layer of the birds until the dish is full. Pour over the gravy and then cover the pie with a crust and bake to a light brown. The pie may also be made very nicely by stewing the birds as one would a chicken (see recipe), and then line a pie pan with a rich pie crust; bake lightly, fill in with the stewed birds, pour over the gravy, place a cover of the pie crust on top, set in the oven and bake to a light brown. Cliaud-Froid ot Game. Chaud-Proid de Gibier. The Preasts of 3 Ducks, or 1 Dozen Breasts of Small Game. 1 Cup ot Chicken Forcemeat. 2 TablespoOBfuls of Butter. 1 Pint of Aspic Jelly. 1 Pint of Poulette Sauce. 3 Truffles. Watercress to Garnish. This is a, most recherche dish, sel- dom made in these days on account of the cost, but in old Creole days it was a standing dish at every great feast. It may be made with Canvasback or French or Teal Duoli, or with Woodcock, Snipe and other small game. The dish demands such beautiful decoration that it requires an artist to make a real Creole Chaud- Froid. Clean the ducks or game or spring chicken, if the latter is used; wash and truss neatly. Then wrap in buttered paper and smother accord- ing to recipe for Smothered Chicken (see recipe.) 'When done take out of the paper and separate the breasts of the game of chicken from the legs. Trim them neatly and stuff the portion between the breasts proper and the filets wrth a chicken force- meat. (See recipe.) Mix together equal parts of Aspic Jelly and Pou- lette Sauce. (See recipes.) Stir till thick and surround with crushed ice. Then dip the breasts of the game or chicken into this mixture. Take a fine baking sheet or dish and ar- range the breasid in fanciful or pyr- amidal figures on this dish, and when set decorate them nicely with sliced truffles and the remaining sauce that has beefi poured into timbale molds that have been previously lined with Aspic Jelly, and which have become set. Decorate nicely with these tim- bales of Aspic and Poulette Sauce, and garnish the dish with Crotltons, on which you will have placed por- tions of Aspic Jelly. Decorate the edges of the dish with Watercress, and place on the table cold. When ready to serve, serve a portion of the breast of the uuck or the entire breast of the small game on a croll- ton of Aspic Jelly, with the timbale turned out on the end of the chick- en or game and the other end gar- nished with Watercress. If chickens are used be careful to have spring chickens of one and a half pounds in weight. This la the real Creole Chaud-Proid that was served at the great feasts and banquets in the days gone by, when parties paid from $10 to $20 a plate. It is always an expensive dish, both from the cost of the ingredients and the care re- quired in making it. CHAPTER XX. STUFFIXGS AND DRI]:SSI1VGS FOft POULTRY, GAME, FISH, ETC. FORCEMEAT. Des Farcies- -Des Quenelles. The Creoles claim that oysters, eggs, chestnuts or truffles are the only elegant dressings for poultry or game, and oysters or egg stuffing for fish. The following are the meth- ods o£ preparing these dressings: Oyster Dresslns- Faroi aux Hultres. 2 Dozen Oysters. 1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Onion, Chopped Very Fine. i4 Square Incli Ham. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. % Teaspoonful of Sage. 1 Sprig Each of Tliyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Hinced Very Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wet the soft of. the bread and squeeze thoroughly till you have one cup, judging the quantity of stuffing always by the size of the fowl to be stuffed, and adding more in pro- portion, if needed. Season the bread well with salt and pepper, and add the minced herbs, mixing well. Take a tablespoonful of butter and put in the frying pan. as it melts, add the onion, which must be chopped Very fine. Let this brown for about five minutes, and while frying add the bread and stir well. Then add the square inch of ham, minced very fine. Mix well and let all fry well. Season again to taste. Then add the two dozen oysters, cut in two, witl\ all the hard portions taken off. Mix all well, and fry for a few minutes longer. Then, If you prefer a dry dressing, place the pan in the oven and let the dressing bake for ten minutes. If you prefer, as many do, the moister and richer dressing, stuff the fowl or flsh immediately, and proceed to bake. Arrange and bake the fowl as in the directions on these special subjects. Twioe the above qauntity of bread will be needed, and perhaps a little more, in stuffing tur- key. Nothing is more elegant or rgcherchS than an oyster dressing. The flavor of sage is very much liked by some and disliked by others If used — and the Creoles always use it — add a teaspoonful sifted, and mix thoroughly with the bread before putting it in the frying pan, if two cups of dressing are used, and less for one cup, in proportion. Oyster Stnfling; for Poultry. Farci d'HuItres. All depends upon the -size of the fowl. For the ordinary-sized fifteen or sixteen pound turkey, take 3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Quart nf Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Tablespoonluls of Sage. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Drain .the oysters^; wet the stale bread with hot water, squeezing thoroughlj'. Chop fine the liver and gizzard of the fowl, and put a ta- blespoonful of lard into the frying pan. Mix in the chopped onions and add the chopped liver and gizzard. As it begins to brown, throw in the chopped herbs, and then add the bread which has been mixed well and seasoned with the chopped sage. Mix well. Add to this one tablespoonful of butter and stir, blending all thoroughly. Now^ add the pint or so of oyster water, and as it is reduced mix in the oysters. Stir for three br four minutes and take off and dress the fowl. This dressing is highly rec- ommended. Stuffing of TruiHes. Farci aux TrufEes. Vi Can of Truffles. 1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Onion, Chopped Very Fine. % Square Inch of Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2^ Teaspoonfuls of Sage. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Minced Very Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for egg or oyster stuffing, using a quarter of a can of truffles cltopped, instead of the oysters or egg. But bear in mind that this is an expensive stuffing. Some fasti- dious epicures stuff the fowl en- tirely with truffles, but this will make the dish of turkey dressed in such manner cost at least $10. Egg Dressing, Farcis aux Oeufs. 4 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly. 1 Chopped Onion. % Square Inch of Ham. 144 1 Teaspoontul of Butter. % Teaspoonful of Sage. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wet the bread and squeeze thor- oughly. Chop the eggs fine and mix ■with the bread. Mince the herbs and add. Season well with salt and pepper. Chop the onion and fry it in one tablespoonful of butter. As it browns add the bread, into which you have mixed the sifted sage, if desired. Add, as it fries, the half square inch of ham, minced very fine. Season again to taste, and let all fry about ten minutes. Take off the stove and stuff the fowl or fish and proceed with the arrangement for baking. Egg dressing is a very nice stuffing for fish, if oysters can- not be had. Stuffing for Ducks. Farci Pour les Canards. 2 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Onion Chopped Very Fine. % Square Inch of Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Teaspoonful of Sage. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Minced Very Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. The Creoles generally stuff the domestic duck when roasted, using an oyster stufling. (See recipe.) But n^any hold that the flavor of the wild duck is finer when not stuffed. This is a matter of taste, 'he wild duck stuffed with oysters .s a most delectable dish. Ducks may be stuffed with truflles. This is much affected by epicures when serving the famous Mallard or Canvasback Ducks at great din- Ings. But a duck stuffed with truf- fles is a very expensive dish. The domestic duck is always roasted and stuffed. Serve with Currant Jelly. Stuffing for Goose. Farci Pour I'Oie. 1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes. 4 Apples. 4 Onions. ^^ Teaspoonful Powdered Sage. % Teaspoonful of Thyme. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Any stufling used in baking a turkey may be used for roast goose, such as oyster or egg, etc. But the following is an excellent special dressing and seems to bring out more than any other the flavor of the goose: Take one cup of mashed potatoes, four apples (peeled incely and cored) and four onions; one-half teaspoon- ful of sage, powdered well; one-half teaspoonful of thyme and pepper and salt to taste. Place the apples and onions and herbs in a saucepan , and add water sufficient to cover nicely. Let all cook together till soft. Then mash well and rub through a sieve. Add the cup of mashed potatoes and mix well, sea- soning with salt and pepper. Stuff the body and craw, sew up and truss the goose, and bake according to re- cipe. (See recipe for "Roast Goose.") A Simple Bread Stuffing. Farci de Pain. 1 Pint of Stale 'Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Each of Chopped Parsley and Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wet the bread and squeeze. Add the minced herbs and season well with salt and pepper. Mix all thor- oughly and fry in butter. Onion Stuffing. Farci aux Ognons. 1 Pint of Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Bach of Chopped Parsley and| Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for bread stufling, using also one large onion, chopped very fine, and mixed thoroughly. This is a very "nice dressing and cheap. FORCEMEATS. Quenelles. Quenelles are small balls of fowl, fish meat or other chopped and hashed ingredients rolled nicely, and used as a garnish for poultry and fish, and fish or meat sauces, often adding both to the taste and beauty of a dish. Creole Forcemeat. Quenelles a, la Creole. Calf's Liver. A Slice of Pork Fat. 1 Onion. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. '6 Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. 1 Table- spoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take calf's liver and pork fat, in the proportions of two-thirds liver and one-third fat. Grind both to- gether very, very fine. Then mince an onion, and two sprigs each of thyme and parsley, and one bay leaf, and mix with the ground meat; add a half teaspoonful of grated nut- meg and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Put one tablespoonful of hot butter in a frying pan and throw in the chopped meat. Let all blend well together without cooking for about two minutes, stirring all the time. Take the mixture off, and, when it cools, form into little balls 'about the size and shape of a pecan. Roll these in flour, and then parboil in boiling water that has been well 145 seasoned with pepper and salt. The balls then become Quenelles, and are used as a garnish for meats, etc. Place around the meat and pour the sauce over and serve hot. These are the genuine Quenelles. Sausage Forcemeat. Quenelles de Saucisses. Vi Pound of Fresh Pork. 2 Square Inches of Lean Raw Ham, 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Parsley. A Finch of Grated Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Hash the pork; season well with salt and pepper, according to taste, adding a pinch of grated nutmeg and the chopped herbs and minced ham. Hash all very fine and make into small balls and use as de- sired. This is a nice garnishing for meat when served with sauces. Godlveanx Forcemeat. Quenelles Godiveaux. 1i Ponnd of Suet. Vi Found of Lean Teal. 1 TTablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Gill of Cold Milk. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Raw Eggs. A Finch of Grated Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Remove all the stringy tissue from the suet and pound in a mortar; hash the veal well and mix with the meat. Take a tablespoonful of flour and blend well with half a gill of cold milk and a tablespoonful of melted butter and add to the suet and veal and blend well. Season highly with salt and pepper, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg. Then add the yolks of two raw eggs and the white of one egfj. and, when well blended, strain ail through a sieve, roll into balls and use as needed. In making this forcemeat, poultry or game may be used in- stead of veal. Chicken Forcemeat. Quenelles de Volaille. 2 Raw Chicken Breasts. The Yolks of 4 Eggs. Bread Soaked In Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Thyme and Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg. Cut up the chicken and pound in a mortar; add an equal quantity of bread soaked in nfllk or water and well squeezed; add the butter and the yolks of the eggs; blend well and season highly with salt and pepper and the minced herbs, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg. Mix all together and roll into balls, and use as desired. Game Forcemeat. Quenelles de Gibier. The Breasts of Any Birds. 4 Eggs. I 1 Teaspoonful of Butter. 1 Bay Loaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. Salt and Pepper to Taste. In making a forcemeat of game, use judgment in regard to quantity. The partridge is the best bird for a game forcemeat. Take two breasts of partridges, cut into pieces and pound in a mortar. Add the same quantity of bread that has been wet with milk or water and squeezed well. Add the butter and the yolks of four eggs, and season highly with salt and pepper and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Mix thoroughly and press all through a sieve. Two well- pounded truffles may be added. Use as desired. Fish Forcemeat. Quenelles de Poisson. % Pound of Firm Fish. The Whites of 3 Eggs. H Pint of Cream or Milk. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and Parsley. Salt and White Pepper to Taste. A Finch of Grated Nutmeg. The left-over fish may be utilized for these Quenelles, or take a half pound of any firm fish — Sheepshead, Redfish or Red Snapper. Take out all the bones and remove the skin. Pound the fish well in a mortar, and add gradually the well-whipped whites of three eggs. Add gradually the cream • or milk, and season to taste with salt and pepper, using white pepper. Add the grated nut- meg 'and minced . herbs. Mix thor> oughly, drain through a sieve, form into little balls, and use when need- ed. Crab Forcemeat. Quenelles des Crabes. The Meat of 12 Crabs. 1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Teaspoonful Then set back on the stove and let them cook slowly for about an hour. It must be of the consistency of a very thick starch, or drier, if pre- ferred. For invalids it may be cooked like a cornmeal mush. Serve hot. with any meat, with gravy, or serve with milk, as oatmeal, as a prelimi- nary to breakfast, or, again, simply eat with butter. In any manner In which they are served they are al- ways relishable and tialatahlB Tf half milk, instead of water, is added in cooking, the dish is all the more delicious. Baked Grits, Du Gru aux Oeufs. 1 Cup of Grits. % Quart of Water. % Quart of Milk. 2 Eggs. Salt to Taste. Boil the grits in the water and milk, mixed. Season, and when quite dry, take off the stove and let it cool a little. Beat the whites and yolks separately, and when the- grits is cool beat in the yolks, and blend thoroughly. Then add the whites, and beat till very light. Add a gill of cream. Set in an oven and bake to a beautiful browin. and serve hot. This is an ideal Creole breakfast dish. Cold grits may be thus utilized. HOMINY. SaccamitS. Hominy is called by the Creoles the older sister of Grits. It was the In- dians around Louisiana who first taught the use of hominy. They used to take all the dried Indian corn and thresh it till all the yellow, hardened outer germ or hull came off, the grain being left white. Then they would bring the • large whitened grains into the city to sell. Hominy became a great industry, and was extensively manufactured and sold all over the south. It was the chief food of the couthern negroes. But it was also a standing dish on the most elegant tables. The little Creole children were reared on "La Saocamit6." The hominy was boiled In water in the same proportions as grits, but, of course, allowed to cook much longer, till the great white grains of corn were very soft, and yielded easily to pressure. It is still cooked in the same way, and eaten with milk or with sugar, the latter being a favor- ite dish with the Creole children. It is also eaten with meat and gra- vy, or simply with salt and butter. Left-over hominy is utilized in mak- ing hominy griddle cakes. So gene- ral is the use of hominy in Creole homes, th.at the ancient dames have a saying when any one is dissatisfied with home, and longs to pass beyond its environments, "Tempi, pour toi! La SaocamitS te ramfinera!" "Never mind! Hominy will bring you back!" We have also "Lye Hominy," or Hominy soaked in Lye till the coarse outer germ comes off. This is the great summer breakfast dish of the city and parishes. ' The hominy is made in the parishes, and shipped to New Orleans. It is also pounded and used for making "Lye Hominy Bread." In our day, oatmeal, cracked wheat, 177 en favorites, grits and hominy, In popular favor In New Orleans. These, as shown in this' chapter, are also cooked like grits. In the proportion of one cup of the grain to one quart of water. Simple breakfast hominy is the hulled grain broken up into a number of small sieces. Boiled Hominy. La Saccamitg Bouillie. 1 Pint of Hominy. 2 Quarts of Water. Salt to Taste. Hominy should always be soaked Over night in cold water. Wash the hominy, and put Into two quarts of water to soak. In the morning turn both hominy and water into a sauce- pan, and let it boil slowly for three or four hours. Serve with sugar and Cream. It may also be eaten with butter and salt and pepper. Hominy Croqnett^s. La SaccamitS en Croquettes. These are made from the left-over hominy. They are prepared In ex- actly the same manner as rice cro- quettes. (See recipe.) Grits may be made into croquettes In the same manner. Fried Grits or Hominy. Gru ou SaccamitS Frite. To fry grits or hominy, after the grain is boiled, let it cool. Then season with salt and pepper, and spread on a biscuit board. "When perfectly cold, cut into slices and dust each slice with a little flour. Brush again with a beaten egg, and fry In lard till a light brown. liye HOmlny or Samp. SaccamitS k la Lessive. This is an old-fashioned Creole way of preparing hulled corn. It is and has been much in vogue for many generations throughout rural Lou- isiana. The corn is allow^ed to get very ripe, put to dry, and then hulled. It is then allowed to lie for many days, spread out upon a cloth, till thoroughly dried. An Immense pot is then filled with water, and a bag containing at least a quart or more of hard wood ashes is put into it. A good peck of the old, ripe, dry, hulled corn Is thrown In. and it Is allowed to soak for at least twenty- four hours. The corn is then put to boil in these ashes till the husks or outer germs come off easily. Then the corn is thrown Into the cold wa- ter and divested of the hulls by thor- ough rubbing with the hands. It is then washed in four or five waters, till every taste of potash disappears. Another way the Creoles of rural liOuisiana have of preparing Lye Hominy is to dilute the strong lye In water, and then boil the corn In this till the hull comes off. After thoroughly washing, the corn pre- pared after either way is sent In large quantities to New Orleans, aa well as used for home consumption. In cooking Lye Hominy, it is either boiled in water until the kernels are soft, as in other recipes for Hominy, making a delicious dish when served with milk, or cream, or It Is ground or pounded into a flour, from which is made that famous Louisiana break- fast offering, "Lye Hominy Bread." (See recipe under chapter on Breads.) This flour also finds a ready sale among the Creoles during summer. In preparing Hominy after the fa- shion, the Creoles again demonstrate how perfectly they understand con- ditions of life in Louisiana and the peculiarities of our climate. Lye is an alkali, and when the corn is soaked in it, much of the oil, which gives it such heat-producing power, is lost. The Hominy thus prepared and distinguished as "Samp," be- comes a splendid summer food, while "Big Hominy" and 'Little Hominy" and "Grits" supply heat for winter. Any family may make Its own Lye Hominy a.t home in small quantities by following the above recipes, first making the lye by boiling two hand- fuls of clean, hardwood ashes in cold w^ater for twenty-five minutes, and w^hen the lye is strong and slippery add the corn. As the hulls begin to start, skim out the corn and throw it into a pan of cold water and pro- ceed as above. Cornmeal Mush. Bouillie de Farine de Mais. 1% Cups of Cornmeal. 2 Quarts of Boiling Water. VA Teaspoontuls of Salt. Set the water to boil in a porcelain- lined or agate stewpot; add the salt, and when the light scum comes on top, skim it off. Then add the fresh, sweet white cornmeal. putting a handful at a time Into the water, and stirring with a spoon, or a pud- ding stick, round and round, as the meal falls lightly from the hand. When one handful is exhausted, refill It, and continue stirring and letting the meal fall by degrees, until the pudding stick will stand in It. This Is the test. Continue stirring, and when sufficiently cooked, which will be in a half hour, as the bubbles be- gin to puff up, turn into a bowl, bring to the table (either hot or cold) and eat with milk, butter, sugar, syrup or with meat and gravy. In preparing this as a gruel for Infants, take one-half cup of corn- meal, a quart of water, and let It boil for at least one hour, stirring often. When done, soften with boiled 178 new milk, sweeten to taste and feed the infant with a spoon. Graham Meal Mush is prepared in the same manner as either of the above recipes. Milk Porriagc. Bouillie de Lait. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Indian Meal. 1 Spoon of White Flour. 3 Cups of Milk. 114 Cups of Boiling Water. A Pincli of Salt. Bring the flour to a paste with a little cold water, and also scald the meal with a little hot water. Have the water boiling in the proportion given above; add the meal, and then add the flour, stirring constantly. Then let it boil for about twenty min- utes, and add the pinch of salt and the milk, stirring almost constantly; then let all cook for ten minutes more, stirring often. Serve while hot, with sugar and milk. This Is excellent for little children and in- valids. BARLEY. Orge. Barley is extensively used by the Creoles, especially in summer, for making soups. A good barley soup is considered not only a most nutri- tious dish, but a very cooling one. and especially suited to a summer diet. A half cupful is ' thrown into the soup. (See recipe for Barley Soup.) Barley water is also exten- sively used to cool the system, and also for delicate Infants, with whom very often even sterilized milk does not agree, and it is found absolutely necessary to substitute some other article of diet. The Creole mothers first soak two tablespoonfuls of bar- ley in a little cold water for about an hour, and then, without draining pour this into the boiling water, which has been very slightly salted. This v?ater is stirred very frequently and allowed to simmer for at least an hour. It is then strained and sweet- ened before it is used. Barley thus prepared is used extensively for in- valids. Barley must always be picked over and washed thoroughly in severo.l waters before using and soaked in a little cold water. BTJCKWHB3AT. Froment de Sarrasln. Buckwheat is not by any means a nutritive food, being far inferior to wheat and corn. It Is never eaten alone, but in combination with flour, is used in making those delightful breakfast accompaniments, "Buck- wheat Cakes." (See recipe, under Chapter on Breads.) CHAPTER XXVI. MACAROjVI. Macaroni. Macaroni is a general article of food in New Orleans among the rich and the poor. It is very cheap, and is a most excellent dish. We have In New Orleans large Macaroni fac- tories, where not only Macaroni is made by the Italians themselves, but the twin sisters of Macaroni. Spa- ghetti and Vermicelli, are also man- ufactured fresh daily. While there Is no city in the United States in which Macaroni is cooked in real Italian style but New Orleans, which has long been a favorde point of mi- gration for the sons of sunny Italy, the Creole cooks have modified and improved upon the Italian methods, so that Macaroni a, la Creole is just as famous a dish as Macaroni SL I'ltal- lenne, and by many considered far superior. Macaroni is used extensively in New Orleans in making soups. In this particular it was treated under the special chapter allotted to soups. (See Macaroni Soup.) How to Boll Macaroni. Always purchase the best quality of Macaroni. The cost is small and more satisfactory results are ob- tained in cooking. Avoid breaking the macaroni as much as possible. Immerse it whole in a large saucepan of boiling water; add a tablespoontul of salt and one of butter. Let the macaroni cook from twenty to twen- ty-five minutes; remove from the fire and drain in a colander. If not In- tended for immediate use, cover at once with cold water. When cool, drain and use as needed. ng Boiled nincnronl, Itnllan Style. Macaroni &, I'ltalienne. '^ Pound of Macaroni. 1 Pound of Grated Parmesan Ciieese. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Break the macaroni into conven- ient lengths, and set to boil in*a ket- tle filled with boiling water and in which you have thrown a spoonful of salt and black pepper. Be careful to keep the lengths of macaroni firm. When cooked till tender, take off and strain the water. Take one ta- blespoonful of butter and one of flour and put them on the fire, blend- ing well. Have one pound of Par- mesan cheese grated; add one-half of it to the flour and butter, and one pint of the water in which the mac- aroni was boiled; the mixture must not be allowed to brown; stir briskly Place the macaroni by lengths into a dish, season well with salt and pepper, and warm a few minutes in the oven. When warm, take out the dish and sprinkle over it one-quarter of the pound of cheese that still re- mains; pour the hot sauce over this, and sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top; serve hot. Bailed Spagliettl, Italian Style. Spaghetti a, I'ltalienne. % Pound of Spaghetti. 1 Pound of Grated 'Parmesan Cheese. ' 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Spaghetti a, I'ltalienne is prepared in the same manner as in the above . recipe. Spaghetti is a more delicate form of macaroni. The Italians in New Orleans also simply bo.il the macaroni or spaghetti as mentioned above, sprinkle it with grated cheese and salt and pepper, and serve with a rich tomato sauce (see recipe), and grated cheese, the latter served in separate plates. This latter is a very rich dish. Macaroni or Spaghetti thus cooked is served with daube and is a very palatable dish. Maearonl Yvitli Tomato Sance. Macaroni a, la Sauce Tomate. ^ Pound of Macaroni. 1 Gill of Tomato Sauce. 1 Gill of Madeira Sauce, or Wine. % Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne. Boil the macaroni in salted water for twenty minutes, adding a table- spoonful of butter and an onion, with two cloves stuck in it. Then drain two cloves stuck in it. Then drain the macaroni of all water; place it in a saucepan with a gill of Tomato Sauce and one of Madeira Sauce or Madeira Wine. Add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese;season well with salt and pepper; add a dash of Cayenne, and let the mixture cook slowly for ten or fifteen minutes, toss- ing frequently to prevent burning. Place the Macaroni on a hot disli, pour the sauce over it, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese passed in a separate dish. Spaghetti may be prepared and served in the same manner. Macaroni, Creole Style, Macaroni a, la Creole. % Pound of Macaroni. % Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresh Ones. 1 Tahlespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the macaroni according to the recipe given above. When done, drain through a colander without breaking the lengths. Season well with Salt and pepper. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and add' one tablespoonful of flour; blend well and as it browns add the tomatoes, which have been chopped fine in their own juice. Let this stew, after stirring well for about ten minutes, and when It begins to boil add the macaroni or spaghetti, mixing well without break- ing the lengths. Let it boil up once, and then serve hot. The" dish may be served with any meats. Macaroni or Spagliettl Milanaise Style. Macaroni ou Spaghetti a la Milanaise. % Pound of Macaroni. Vi Pound of Cold Boiled Ham. 1 Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 1 Onion. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Can Tomatoes. 2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Boil the macaroni in water and salt as in the recipe given for Boil- ing Macaroni. When tender, drain well through a* colander. In the meantime, while it is boiling, put a tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- pan, and as it melts, add the grated onion. Let this brown, and then add the^ ham which you will have minced very fine. Let this brown; add the clovea of garlic, minced very fine, and the herbs, minced very fine. Then add almost im.mediately, as these begin to brown, for bay leaf burns quickly, a half can of tomatoes, or six fresh large tomatoes. To this, as It stews, add a half pound of grated Parmesan cheese, and let all stew for about ten minutes; then add the macaroni or spaghetti, and let all simmer gently for about twenty minutes longer. Serve hot, and pass at the same time 180 a small plate of grated Parmesan cheese to each person. Macaroni, Neapolitan Style, Macaroni i la Napolitaine. J^ Pound of Macaroni. Yi Pint of Sauce Espagnole. Vi Pint of Tomato Sauce. ^ Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 6 Muslirooms. 2 Truffles. 1 Ounce of Smoked Beet Tongue. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Vt Bottle of Claret. 1 Carrot. 1 Herb Bouqute. 2 Sprigs of Celery. Boil the macaroni, and cut Into pieces of about two inches long-, after draining thoroughly. Place it in a saucepan with a half pint of Tomato Sauce and Sauce Espagnole (see re- cipe), and add the cheese. Add the herb bouquet, tied together; cut the truffles and mushrooms and carrot in- to dice-shaped pieces; mince the eel- pry and add; then add the beef tongue cut into small dice-shaped pieces. To this add the Claret. Let all cook for about fifteen minutes, tossing fre- quently in the meantime. When ready to serve, remove the herb bouquet and send to the table hot. Macaroni an Gratln. Macaroni au Gratin. % Pound of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 1 Pound of. Parmesan Cbeese (Grated). 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and ' Pepper to ^aste. Boil the macaroni by its length in water until soft. Do not let it cook too much, but just enough to be soft, and lift out of the water without breaking. This will require about a half hour of rapid boiling'. When done, take out of the water In which It was boiled, and season well with salt and black pepper. Put a table- spoonful of butter, blended well with flour, into a pint of milk. Let It boll two minutes. Place a layer of the spaghetti or macaroni In the pan in which It is to be baked, seasoning again to taste, and mix in a layer of the grated cheese; sprinkle with pep- per and salt; then put in alternately a layer of the macaroni and a layer of cheese, and so on until three- fourths of the cheese is used. Do not break the macaroni or spaghetti. Pour over this the boiling milk. Take the remaining quarter pound of cheese and sprinkle thickly on top, dot here and there with bits of but- ter, and put in a quick oven and let it bake to a nice brown. Serve In the dish in which it was baked. In cooking macaroni or spaghetti, cream, or milk may be used always instead of water, using a pint of either In the above proportions. If you have not the milk, a pint of the water In which the macaroni was boiled will answer equally well. This recipe Is highly recommended as the nicest way of preparing macaroni. Macaroni or Spaghetti Wltli Danbe, Daube au Macaroni ou au Spaghetti. % Pound of Macaroni. A Veal or Beef Daube. 1 Pint of Hot Water or Broth. This is a popular Creole dish, and a very good one, too. Prepare a daube. (See recipe, "Boeuf a, la Mode ou Daube.) After it has cooked about an hour and a half, and is about two-thirds done, add the macaroni according to the number to be served, using between a quarter and a half pound for six, and cutting the maca- roni into lengths of about five inches, to facilitate serving. Let it boil for about three-quarters of an hour in the daube, and if you see, on adding it, that there is not sufficient gravy for it to cook well, add a h^lf pint or a pint more of hot water or hot broth, according as the macaroni appears to absorb after it has been in the pot four or five minutes. Cook until very tender, and on serving place the daube in the center of the dish and heap the macaroni around. Chicken and macaroni may be pre- pared in the same way. Both are ex- cellent and favorite New Orleans ways of serving macaroni. They are also very healthy and nutritious fam- ily dishes. Spaghetti may also be cooked In cither of these ways, and makes a more delicate dish. TImbale of Macaroni. Macaroni en Timbale. % Pound of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 1 Head of Edam's Cheese. % Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Nearly every family keeps a head of Edam's cheese for general use. When you have finished, scooping out the cheese, do not throw away the head, but keep it to make a Timbale of Macaroni. Boil a little over one- quarter of a pound of macaroni, or sufficient to fill the head, according to the above directions (Boiled Mac- aroni.) When boiled, take out of the water and set in a dish. Take about half a pint of the liquor in which the macaroni was boiled, strain it and set it back on the stove; add the flour and butter blended, and three- quarters of the grated cheese, and let it boil five minutes. Then pour this sauce over the macaroni in the dish and mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Pill the head with this mixture, and sprinkle on top the rest of the grated cheese. Set in the 181 stove to bake, and, when nicely browned, serve hot from the shell at the cheese. The macaroni may also be baked in molds, but there is no comparison to the Timbale when made in the empty cheese head. This is a grenuine Timbale of Macaroni, and the only way to really teake the dish. Mncaroul Balls. ^ Boulettes de Macaroni. 1 Cwp of Cold Boilefl Macaroni. 1 Cnp Boilins Milk. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Cheese. The Yolks of 4 EgKS. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the butter into a saucepan, and as it melts add the flour, but do not let it brown. Add the cup of bolliijs milk and atir well. When it begins to thicken add the grated cheese, and let it simmer for a few minute.-s longer; then take from the fire and ■add the beaten yolks of four eggs. Have the macaroni cut into tiny bits and work it well into this mixture. Then set it aside to cool. When cold, 'take a little flour, rub it on your hands, and form the macaroni into small balls about two inch- es in length and one in thick- ness. Dip the balls into a well-beaten egg, roll well and then roll in grated cracker crumbs. Fry in boiling lard, and .".erve hot. CHAPTER XXVII. CHEESE. Du Fromage. Cheese is one of the most nutritious of all f(>od substances, being not only substantial, but especially rich in ni- trogenous matter. Among scientists it ranks very high as an article of food. Being somewhat expensive, it is not as economical as other kinds of food, but the Creole family must be very poor indeed in which cheese of some kind is not served after each meal, especially after dinner. They hold that cheese is a good aid to di- gestion, and if it is simply the Gru- y§re cheese or the plain "From"age a, I'Americain," you will always see it passed around as a proper finish to a meal just before the coffee is brought in. So much for the cheese in its na- tural state. In cooking, the Creoles use some very delightful forms, chief among which is that old French prep- aration known as Cheese Ramakins. Ramequins de Fromage. 6 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Cheese. 1% Gills of Milk. The Yolks of Three Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Ounces of Bread. % Tablespoonful of Prepared Mustard. The Whites of Three Eggs. Cayenne and Salt to Taste. Put the milk on to boil, and add the bread, which you will have minced fine. Stir the milk and bread until very smooth, and then add the but- ter, stirring well, and finally the grated cheese. Stir this for five min- utes, letting it boil, and then take off the fire and add the beaten yolks of three eggs. Have the whites ready, beaten to a stiff froth, and stir them in very gently. Season to taste. Grease a baking dish with but- ter and pour the mixture into the dish, set in a quick oven, and let it bake for a quarter of an hour. Serve hot. Cheese SonfflC-. SoufilS de Fromage. Vi Pound of Grated Cheese. 1 Gill of Fresh Cream or Milk. 3 Creole Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Pinch of Grated Nutmeg. 1 Pinch Cayenne. Salt to Taste. Grate the cheese very fine and then add to it the boiling milk; add grad- ually the pepper, Cayenne and salt. Then add the butter and flour, rubbed well together. When the cheese is well dissolved, take the mixture off; then add nutmeg and the beaten yolks of three eggs and the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth; stir the whole well. Place all in a ghal- low earthern dish, add a little butter that has been well melted and put in the stove for a few minutes till it be- gins to solidify well; then take out and spread on top the white of one egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Set one minute in the stove,- let it brown slightly and serve im- mediately. If you cannot at- tain the acme of browning the whites of eggs without letting them fall; stir the whites into the mixture with the eggs and serve hot, after letting it brown slightly. Some add a little mustard to the mixture, but it is better without it. 182 Toasted Clieese. Fromage sur Canapes. % Pound of Cheese. 6 Slices of Bread. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Toast the bread nicely and butter it. Cut the cheese into very thin slices and hold to the Are, letting it toast nicely, first on one side and then on the other. Lay this upon the buttered toast and serve hot. This is a very nice delicacy for breakfast, or for an evening in win- ter when seated around the home fire. Cbeese Straws. Pailles de Fromage. 1 Cup of Grated Parmesan or Gruyere Cheese. 1 Cup Flour. _1 Tablespoonful Butter, Yolk of an Egg. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Blond the flour and cheese togeth- er and add at the same time- the salt and Cayenne; then moisten with a well-beaten egg and one tablespoon- ful of melted butter, and work all gently into a paste. Roll out on a biscuit board into thin strips of not more than an eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut into strips of four inches in length and one-eighth of an inch in width. Place on buttered sheets of paper and bake in a very hot oven until a light brown. It is very pretty to make little rings of some of the strips and pass the others through them in little bundles like gathered bound bits of straw. This Is a very dainty dlsn. Welsh Rarebit. Fromage Fondu a. la BiSre. 2 Cups of Grated Cheese (Very Rich). % Cup of Milk. The Yolks of Two Eggs. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. The old English dish, "Welsh Rarebit," under this name crossed the channel to France, and thence to New Orleans. Toast the bread nicely in square slices and cut off the crusts. Butter nicely while very hot and then plunge them into a bowl of boiling milk. Place them on a heated dish and stand in the oven to keep hot ■while you proceed to make the "Rarebit." Have a porcelain-lined saucepan; and set a half cup of milk in it over a moderate fire; when it is boiling hot, add the cheese which has been finely grated; stir unceas- ingly till the cheese melts, and then add tile salt, Cayenne and the yolks of the eggs and pour over the toasted bread. Serve hot. In making this "D61icat6sse," the cheese must be very rich or it will be tough and stringy, because poor cheese will not melt. Cheese Biscuits. Biscuits de Fromage. Yi Pound of Butter. Vi Pound of Flour. 5 Ounces of Grated Swiss Cheese. % Tablespoonful of Mustard. Tolks of 2 Eggs. A Dash of Cayenne. Beat the butter to a cream; add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten, and mix well. Then add gradually the grated cheese, mustard and Ca- yenne. Add the flour gradually, beating in thoroughly and make a stiff dough. Roll It out and cut into square or round biscuits. Bake in a rather slow oven for twenty minutes and serve. Cheese Fondu, Fromage Fondu. 1 Cup of Grated Parmesan or Gruyere Cheese. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sifted Flour. 2 TSblespoonfuls of Butter. 3 Creole Eggs. % Cup of Fresh Milk or Cfeam. A Pinch of Urated Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the butter into a saucepan and melt, and add the flour, blending without allowing it to brown. Add immediately the boiling milk,- and let it boil for two minutes. Then re- move from the fire and stir in the yolks of three eggs, well beaten; then salt, pepper, nutmeg and the grated cheese. Mix all thoroughly. Have ready a small pudding dish, or, better still several small souffie dish- es. Butter these well. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth beat them into the mixture and fill the dishes about two-thirds full, Then bake in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes. Serve immediately, or the mixture which has risen to the top of the dishes will fall. Cream Cheese. Fromage 3. la Cr&me. Cream Cheese is always made from clabbered milk. The "Cream Cheese Woman" is still as common a sight on our New Orleans streets as the Cala woman was in the days gone by. She carries a covered basket in which are a number of small perfo- rated tins in which the cheese are. In her other hand she carries a can of fresh cream. She sells her wares to her regular customers, for the old Creoles who do not make their own cream cheese are very particular as to whom they buy from, and when once a good, clean, careful woman gets a "customer" she keeps her during her period of business, com- ing early every fast day and Friday with her cheese and cream, for this is a fast-day breakfast and luncheon dish. Many of the Creoles, however, make their own cream cheese, as fol- 183 lows: The clabber is placed in a long bag of muslin and put to drain, the bag being tied tightly and hung out over night in a cool place. When ready for use, the bag is opened and the cheese is taken out and beaten till light. It is then placed in these perforated molds, and when the time comes for serving it is taken out placed in a dish, and sweet cream is poured over it. It is eaten with su- gar or salt, more generally sugar. Frozen cream cheese is a very del- icious summer dish with the Creoles. Some persons, after skimming the cream from the sour milk, stand the pan on the back of the stove, and scald the clabber with about three quarts of boiling water before put- ting in the bag to drain. Again, some use only the perforated tins, instead of the muslin bag, but the best results are obtained by the form- er ancient Creole method. Cream cheese corresponds to the German "Schmier Kase." CHAPTER XXVIII. CANAPfiS. CanapSs. No book on Creole cookery would be complete without reference to the delightful "Canapes" that are so ex- tensively used at breakfasts, lunch- eons, dinners or suppers, and whose methods of preparation, distinctively Creole, have added to the reputation of the Creole cuisine. "CanapS" is a French term, literally meaning a "couch" or "bed." In the culinary sense it is used as a bed on which to rest savory foods. Usually the Can- apS is the form of sliced bread, or toast, or crackers, covered with finely minced meats, pastes, etc., and hand- somely decorated. It is a term that is also applied to the ordinary "Sand- wich." AnchoiT Canapes. Canapes d'Anchois. 6 Slices of Dry Toast. 1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. 2 Dozen Anciovies. First prepare the Anchovy Butter, by adding to one ounce of good reg- ular butter one teaspoonful of Ancho- vy Essence. Mix well and set on ice till ready to use. Prepare six slices of bread, slicing them about one-half an inch thick and toasting to a golden brown. Trim the edges nicely and spread over each a little Anchovy Butter and then cover each with four Anchovies cut in halves, or pounded to a paste, ac- cording to taste. Place the toasts on a tin baking sheet in an oven for one minute, and then arrange neatly on a folded napkin on a dish and serve. Anchovy CanapSs "With Hard-Boiled Elggs, Canapgs d'Anchois aux Oeufs Durs. 6 Slices of French Toast. 1 Dozen Anchovies. 2 Hard-Bollefl Eggs. 1 Oilnce of Anchovy Butter. Prepare six slices of French toast (see recipe), spread over each a lit- tle Anchovy Butter, and then spread bver this buttered toast the Ancho- vies and hard-boiled eggs, which have been finely minced and mixed together. Place on a folded napkin in a dish and serve. Anohovy CanapSs, Creole Style. Canapfis d'Anchois a. la Crfeole. 6 Slices ot French Toast. 1 Dozen Anchovies. 1 Ounce ot Grated Ham. 6 Gherkins. % a Truffle. 1 Tablespoonful of Salad Oil. 1 Teaspoonful of Caper Vinegar. i Ounce ot Aspic Jelly. Prepare the French toasts (see re- cipe) ; trim the edges neatly. Chop the Anchovies very fine and mix with the ounce of grated boiled ham, and the truffle and gherkins, all minced very fine; moisten this with the salad oil and vinegar, which have been well mixed. Spread over the toast and garnish nicely with the aspic jelly, and place on a folded nap- kin and serve. The Anchovy prep- aration may also be used to fill very small patty cases; in this case, serve with a garnish of delicate pieces of toast and Aspic Jelly. Anchovy Canapts With GraySre Cheese. CanapSs d'Anchois au Fromage de GruySre. 6 Slices of French Toast. 2 Ounces ot Gruyere Cheese. 16 Anchovies. 6 Minced Gherkins. 1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. Prepare the French toast (see re- cipe) ; pound the Anchovies to a paste with the Gruyfire cheese; line very shallow gem pans with a pie paste. (See recipe.) When baked, set to cool, and then fill in with the Ancho- vy preparation. Then invert this on a circle of nicely buttered Anchovy 184 toast; garnish with the minced gher- kins and serve. Cracker Anclioi'7' Canap£s. Canapgs d'Anchois aux Biscuit. 1 Dozen Soda Crackers or Butter Crackers. 2 Dozen Anchovies. 1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. Cut the Anchovies into halves. But- ter one side of six crackers with the Anchovy butter; lay on this four An- chovies sliced in half; cover each with a cracker; place on a folded napkin on a dish and serve. A very pretty conceit at luncheons is to tie the crackers across and around with narrow green ribbon, making a deli- cate knot in the center. Swiss Canapes. Canapgs a, la Suisse. 1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. S Hard-Bolled Eggs. 6 Stuffed Olives. 3 Minced Green Gherkins. 6 Slices of Toast. Prepare the French toast, and cut six delicate pieces into the shape of a triangle. Spread these with An- chovy butter; decorate along one side with the whites of the eggs, finely minced; along the second triangular edge with the minced yolks of the eggs and on the third with the minced green gherkins. Place a stuffed olive (see tecipe) in the cen- ter, and arrange nicely on a folded napkin on a dish and serve. Caviar CanapSs. CanapSs de Caviar. 6 Slices of French Toast. % of a Box of Russian Caviar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. Prepare the toast and out in deli- cate circles. In the meantime put half the contents of a small box of Russian Caviars into a sautoire or "saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of cream and ^leat one and a half min- utes on the stove. Be careful to stir constantly. Pour this over the toast; place on a dish on a folded napkin and serve. Again, the circles of toast may be used as a foundation, the edges being spread with Anchovy butter, with an onion ring at Its base. Pill this decorated ring with the Ca- viars, place on a folded napkin on a dish and serve. i Canapes, Hunters' Style. Canapes a, la Chasseur. 6 Slices of Toast. 1 C^p of Forcemeat of Game (White Meat). % Cup of Forcemeat of Game (Dark Meat). Prepare trianguar-shaped pieces of toast, butter nicely and spread over with a game forcemeat (Woodcock, Snipe, Keed Birds, etc.) Decorate the edges with a forcemeat of game of diflerent color, for effect, and serve. The wild duck, the meat of which is dark, may be utilized in this gar- 'nish. Left-over game also may be thus nicely utilized at luncheon or supper. Crab Canapes. CanapSa de Crabes au Canapfis Lorenzo. 6 Slices of Toast. 8 Hard-Shelled Crabs. 1 Ounce of Butter. 1 Small Onion. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespooufuli of Flour. 1 Gill of Broth or Water. 2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 2 Ounces of Grated Swiss Cheese. For this recipe first prepare the 'Deviled Crabs" as follows: Boil the crabs. (See recipe Boiled Crabs ) Then pick out all the meat from the claws and bodies, and season nicely with salt and pepper. Put one ounce of butter into the saucepan, and add a finely minced onion; let this cook on a slow fire for two minutes, but by no means allow either butter or onion to brown. Add a tablespoon- ful of flour, and stir constantly for a minute and a half, and then add a gill of broth or water, if the broth is not convenient. Stir well and let this mixture cook for five minutes, stirring constantly. Now add the crab meat and let it cook for fifteen min- utes longer, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Turn the mix- ture into a dish and let it cool for about a quarter of an hour. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a sauce- pan, and add Immediately a table- spoonful of flour and blend well; let this cook for three minutes, stir- ring all the time, and then a;dd two ounces of grated Parmesan and two ounces of grated Swiss cheese. Stir all well together, blending thorough, ly, and then turn into a vessel to cool. Cut six slices of bread the full length and width of the loaf, using preferably the "Pan Bread," or deli- cate French loaf. Let the thickness of each slice be about a quarter of an inch; neatly trim off the crust, and fry the bread in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter till they have reached a golden brown. Then let them cool, draining off all butter. Divide the crab forcemeat and the cheese separately into six equal parts; place a layer of the crab forcemeat one-quarter of an inch thick on each slice of toast. Take the six portions of cheese and roll each Into a ball- shaped form about two Inches in dia- meter, and arrange them on each por- tion of toast nicely and equally; place in a dish and brown in the oven for five minutes, and send the Canapfis to the table hot in the same dish In which they were baked. 185 Obtofeen CnnnpSs. Canapgs de Volaile. 6 Slices of Toast. 1 Cup of Chicken Forcemeat. Ounce of Butter 1 Gill of Cream. The Whites of 2 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. Prepare a Chicken Forcemeat (see recipe), and then prepare six slices of toast, cut square or in circles. Add an ounce of butter and one gill of cream to the chicken forcemeat; ■work well together, and then set to cool. Spread the toast lightly with butter, and spread over each slice a portion of the chicken forcemeat to the thickeness of one-quarter of an Inch; sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, set in the oven and bake for five minutes, and then decorate in the center with delicately cut pieces of the white of hard-boiled eggs and serve. CanapSs of Chicken Livers. Canapes de Foies de Volaille. 1 Dozen Chicken Livers. 1 Onion. 6 Slices of Toast. Dash of Anchovy Essence. 1 Ounce of Butter. Salt and Red Pepper to Taste. Pimentos and Ked Chili to Garnish. SautS the Chicken Livers (see re- cipe) with a finely minced onion till tender; then pound them to a paste, adding first a dash of Anchovy' Es- sence, one tablespoonful of butter, salt and red pepper to taste. Cut the bread the full width of the loaf and trim the . edges nicely; then fry in butter to a golden brow^n; take out and drain, an(f place in a silver dish, or in the dish in w^hich they are to be served, and pile up the chicken liver preparation in pyramidal shape on top of the toast; smooth nicely all around with a knife and set in the oven for two or three minutes; then decorate the edges of the bread with slices of Pimentos and rings of Red Chilis and serve hot. Creole CanapSs. CanapSs a. la CrSoIe. Cup of Grated or Minced Boiled Ham. 1 Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Peeled Tomato. 1 lllnced Green Pepper. 6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Ounces of Par- mesan Cheese. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Grate and mince only the lean por- tion of ham till you have a cupful. Put this in a saucepan with a ta- blespoonful of butter, and add the finely minced onion and garlic. Let this cook for three minutes, and then add the finely-cut tomato and minced green pejpper. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add a dash of Ca- yenne, and letvthe preparation stew down dry; then spread on strips of buttered toast and dredge with grated Parmesan cheese. Set in the oven in the dish in which it is to be served and bake for five minutes and send to the table hot. Clieese Canapes. CanapSs de Fromage. 6 Slices of Swiss Cheese. 6 Slices of Toast. 1 Gill of Sauce Plquaute. Take six slices of bread cut the whole width of the. loaf, one-halt inch in thickness, and hollow out one-half of the inner portion. Toast this nicely and spray the inner part with Piquante Sauce. (See recipe.) Have ready six slices of toasted or baked Swiss cheese; fit a slice into each cavity in the sliced toast; set. in the oven for a few minutes and serve very hot. Coilflsli CanapSs, Canapfis de Cabillaud ou de Morue. 1 Cup of Boiled Salt Codfish. 1 Green Pepper. 3 Young Onions. 1 Teaspoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. Capers to Garnish. Boil the codfish (see recipe), or utilize left-over fish; mince finely and mix thoroughly with the minced green peppers and young onions, and season with one teaspoonful of Tar- ragon vinegar. Spread on triangu- lar-shaped pieces of toast placed on a dish on a folded napkin. Decorate nicely with capers and serve. Ham Canapes. CanapSs de Jarhbon. 6 Slices of Lean Ham. 6 Slices of Toast. 1 Tablespoonful of French JIustard. 1 Gill of Cold White Sauce. 1 Boiled Onion. 1 Cooked Garlic. 2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. Prepare the toast nicely, cutting the slices the full width of the bread, paring the edges nicely and toasting and buttering well. Lay on each piece of toast a thin slice of very lean ham, which has been lightly spread with French mustard. Spread lightly over this a cold "White .Sauce (see recipe "White Sauce, Sauce Blanche) to which has been added while cooking a finely-minced onion and clove of garlic, and a dash of Parmesan cheese. Dredge the top of the CanapS with Parmesan cheese, then sprinkle lightly with finely- grated bread crumbs. Set in the oven for five minutes and bake and send to the table hot. Fisli CanapSs. Canapfis de Poisson. 1 Cup of Minced Left-Over Fish. 1 Tablespoonful of French Mustard Dressing. 1 Gill of Sauce Piquante. 2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. 6 .Slices of Toast. Utilize in this form of Canapfi any kind of white-fleshed Fish, Red Fish, 186 Red Snapper, Sheephead or Trout, etc. Prepare a forcemeat (see re- cipe) and season with tlie Frencli Mustard and the Piquant Sauce. Spread a layer one-quarter of an inch thick over delicate strips of toast, dredge with grated Parmesan Cheese, set in the oven, and bake for five minutes and serve hot. Canap£s of Potted Ham, Canapgs de Jambon en Conserve. 1 Box of Potted Ham. 2 Ounces of Grated Bailed Ham. Ibln Slices of Green Glicrkins^, 6 Slices of Toast. Prepare delicate strips of Toast, spread with Potted Ham to a quarter of an Inch in thickness, then sprinkle lightly with grated ham and decorate the edges, and cover fideslred, with thinly-sliced Green Gherkins. The grated Boiled Ham may be omitted. Indian Canapes. Ca:nap6s a. I'lndienne. 1 Bos of Potted Ham. 1 Ounce of Cbutney. fl Slices of Toast. 2 OuDCes~^f Grated Parmesan Clieese. Cut six slices of bread into delicate circles, and fry in butter. Spread first with Potted Ham and then with Chutney. Sprinkle with grated Par- mesan Cheese. Set in the oven to brown for five minutes, and serve hot. Oyster Canapes. Canapfis d'HuItres. 3 Dozen Oysters. 6 Slices of Toast. 2 Tablespoonfols of Hollandalse Sauce. Parsley Sprigs. Blanch the oysters (see recipe) and then mince very fine. Mix with two tablespoonfuls of Hollandalse Sauce, and then spread over thin strips of Buttered toast. Sprinkle lightly with Parsley, which has been grated so fine as to be almost a dust. Put a bit of butter on top of each Canap6 set In the oven for a few minutes, and send to the table hot. Olive CanapSs. Canapes d'Olives. 6 Stuffed Olives. 6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 6 AnchoTles. Capers and Minced Olive to Garnish. Prepare the toast and cut Into del- icate circles. Place on each circle a coiled Anchovy, and set a Stuffed Olive in the center of the coil. Dec- orate. lightly with Olives and Capers minced very fine, and serve. Again, this Canapg may be prepared by fry- ing the circles of toast in butter, and spreading them with Anchovies pounded to a paste, and decorating on top with minced Capers and Ol- ives. Canapes of Potted Tongrae. Canapes de Langue de Boeuf en Con- serve. 1 Box of Potted Tongue. Strips of Cooked Pork Tongue. 6 Slices of Toast. Prepare the toast and cut into deli- cate circles. Spread with a layer of Potted Tongue one-quarter of an incli In thickness, and decorate with strips of cooked Bed Tongue In lattice forms, that is with strips laid one over the other, like a lattice work. Louisiana Canap£s. Canap§s a, la Louisiane. Two Breasts of Cliicken. % of a Red Tongue. 2 Ounces of Grated Lean Boiled Ham. A Dash of Ourry Powder. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Thick Veloute Sance. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Parmesan Cheese. Mince very fine the cooked breasts of the chicken, and cut the ham and tongue Into small dice shapes; mix well with the chicken, and season with salt and a dash of Cayenne. Add a dash of Curry Powder, and then work the entire forcemeat well with two tablespoonfuls of thick Vel- outS Sauce. (See recipe.) Spread the mixture in layers one-quarter of an inch thick on each slice of deli- cate circles of toast, dredge lightly with Parmesan Cheese, set in the oven for five minutes and bake. Send to the table hot. Sardine CanapSs, Canapes de Sardines. 6 Triangular Slices of Toast. 1 Box of Sardines. 3 Hard-BoIIed Eggs. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 6 Anchovies. A Dash of Red Pepper. Pound the sardines and the hard- boiled eggs to a paste, season with a dash of Red Pepper and the juice of a lemon and spread the buttered toast with the mixture. Decorate In the center with a coiled Anchovy. Or, simply pound the sardines to a paste, season with a dash of red pep- per and the juice of a lemon, and spread on the slices of buttered toast. Spanlsli Canapes. Canapes a. I'Espagnole. 6 Circular Pieces of Buttered Toast. 1 Cup of Finely Minced White Fleshed Fish. 3 Sweet Pickles. 1 Tablespoonful of Madras Chutney. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Hollandalse Sauce. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Parmesan Cheese. Prepare circular pieces of but- tered toast, make a mixture of a cup of any whlte-fieshed fish, the Ma- dras Chutney moistened with the Hollandalse Sauce and minced pickles, all pounded together. Spread this over the toast and dredge with grated Parmesan Cheese. Set In the oven and bake for five minutes. 187 CANNELONS. Cannelon is a term applied to pe- culiar hollow lengths of puff paste or noodle paste, made by taking a piece of piping or tubing and cutting the paste into strips and twining around the tubing or piping. Bake or fry this preparation, remove the tubing and fill in the cannelons with a forcemeat of sausage, chicken cro- ^ quette mixture, preserves, jellies or creams. CHAPTER XXIX. VEGETABLES. Des Legumes. Louisiana is peculiarly favored in respect to the variety of vegetables that can be grown on her soil. Al- most all the sturdier varieties of vegetables and all the more delicate and recherchfe are grown here in abundance. The soil Is so rich and fruitful that it has been said that if you simply scatter the seed over the ground, without any ef- fort at cultivation, it would still take root and a good crop would follow. Our climate also ad- mits of two seasons of planting, so that we have both an early spring and autumn crop; the one extends far into the summer and verging upon the autumn, and the other till late in the winter and verging upon the early spring. Consequently, vegeta- bles are always to be found In abun- dance in our markets. The nutritive value of vegetable food is high, especially of peas, beans and lentils. Among the succulent vegetables, the potato ranks as the most nutritious, and there is scarcely a table in New Orleans on which the potato in some form is not served every day. Turnips, carrots, cab- bage, parsnips, beets, onions, aspara- gus, spinach, cauliflower, artichokes and egg plants are all highly nu- tritious, and most of them possess medicinal qualities that make them of great value as blood purifiers. The old Creoles hold that the family that makes it a daily practice to eat vege- tables and fruits, when in season, will never have need of a physician. All green vegetables should be fresh- ly gathered when bought, and should be well washed in cold water before cooking. Some vegetables, such as dried beans, split peas and lentils, do not boil to softness in hard water, that is, when put into boiling water. The seeds contain salts of lime, or sulphates, and these at once coagu- late if the vegetable is put into hot water to boil, and no after amount of boiling can ever bring them quite to softness. Always put such vege- tables to cook in cold water, allow- ing it to heat gradually with the vegetables. on the other hand, young green vegetables, such as green peas and Strang beans, are best cooked in hard or boiling water, for the cold water has such solvent powers that it im- mediately destroys the firmness of the outer coating of the vegetable, and tlie color also, the juices passing out into the water. Onions should be set to boil in hot water. Some vegetables such as green peas, spinach, string beans, Brussels sprouts, should be boiled uncovered, it you wish them to retain freshness of color. A most important rule is to allow the vegetable to cook until done or tender, and not a moment longer, or it will be wet and soggy. Remove the vegetable from the nre the moment it is done, and do not allow it to stand in the water, but be careful to drain at once thoroughly. It is a wise rule to calculate the time that will be required in cooking the vege- table and the hour at which you in- tend to serve it, and so arrange that it will be put on at the proper time, and be "just done" at the proper hour for serving. Above all, don't let the vegetable stand in a hot oven and dry up while waiting for the meal to be served. Place in a dish over a pot of boiling water, and this will keep it hot and moist. In the following recipes the vege- tables found in our New Orleans mar- kets are treated systematically. It will be noticed that new-fangled re- cipes, with high-sounding titles that mean nothing but some old-time method of cooking in a new dress, have been carefully eschewed. Dish- es have been called by their proper names, and care taken not to con- fuse by a vast number of recipes, whose value is worthless. The Cre- oles believe that the flavor of a veg- etable should be dominant in every way in which it is served. They, therefore, cling with singular tenac- ity to the old-fashioned methods, rather than the so-called elegant novelties, whose chief aim seems to be, judging from the combinations 188 ,lhat enter into the recipes, to utterly destroy the original taste of the veg- etable itself. ARTICHOKES. Des Artichauts. Artichokes are of two kinds: The French or Green Globe Artichokes, which have large scaly heads, like the cones of a pine, and the Jerusa- lem Artichokes. The latter are little esteemed by the fastidious, the pref- erence being always given to the former, which is a more delicate and tender variety, and a popular favor- ite. In Louisiana the Jerusalem Ar- tichoke is cultivated principally for its tubers, "which are very valu-^ible for stock and hog feeding, owing to their fattening properties. But, if boiled or made into a purfee, these ar- tichokes will be found not only a pleasant, but most nutritious food. French artichokes may be boiled or stuffed or fried. To tell it a French Artichoke is tender, lift up one of the scales that lie near the body of the vegetable. If it breaks without effort, the veg- etable is young; otherwise, the ar- tichoke will be tough and disagreea- ble to eat. Frencb ArtlcUokes Boiled. Artichauts Frangais Bouillis. 6 Tender Fresh Artichokes. 1 Tablespoouful of Vinegar. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Sauce, according to Taste. Strip off the coarse outer leaves, or, better still, cut the stalks close with a pair of scissors, and trim the sharp points from the leaves, re- moving about a quarter of an inch of each. Cut the stalks about an inch from the bottom. Throw in cold wa- ter and wash well, adding a little vinegar to draw out any lurking in- sects. Have on the stove a pot of boiling water, and add a teaspoonful of salt. Throw in the artichokes and boil gently untilit is possible to draw out a' leaf easify, or until the outer leaves are tender. Take from the fire and drain upon a dish, placing them upside down, so that the water may all run off. Stand on their stalks in another dish when thoroughly drained, and serve hot with a Drawn Butter Sauce, Sauce a, la Maltre d'Hotel or a Sauce a. la Hollandaise. The time for boiling an artichoke depends entirely on the age and size of the vegetable and requires all the way from twenty-flve minutes to an hour. Jemsalem Articliokes Boiled. Topinambours Bouillis. 6 Jerusalem Artichokes. Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel or a la Creme. Wash the artichokes in cold water, and scrape them. Then throw them into cold water, and let them soak for an hour or so. Take out and drain. Put them in a saucepan; cov- er with boiling water, and let the.m boil slowly until tender; watch care- '' fully, as they will easily harden again Serve with a Sauce a. la Maltre d'Ho- tel or a Cream Sauce. (See recipes.) PurSe of Jerusalem Artichokes. Purge de Topinambours a, la Cr&me. 6 Artichokes. 1 Tablespoouful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash and skin the artichokes, and boil until tender in a pint of water. Press them through a colander, and return to the fire in a saucepan in which you have placed a tablespoon- ful of butter, salt and pepper. Stir well, and let them simmer for five minutes longer, and serve with a Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Fried Artichokes. Artichauts Frits. 6 Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Pluck off the coarse scales of the articbotee, and th«n throw the veg- etable into cold water. Let it stand for an hour. Then drain. Cut the i •meat into delicate slices, and fry in butter, just as' you would potato chips. Serve with Filet of Beef, Veal SautS, Smothered Chicken, etc. Artichokes SautSs, Artichauts Sautfis. 6 Fine Tender Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfnlt of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. Any Sauce Desired. Take six fine artichokes and cut into quarters. Remove the choke en- tirely. :, Trim the leaves neatly and parboil in hot water for five min- utes, being careful to add a tea- spoohf ijf of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar to the water. After five minutes remove the artichokes and drain thoroughly. Place ;n a sauce- pan pr sautoire, with two good ta- blespoonfuls of butter. Cover the pan tight and sot to cook in a moder- ate oven for twenty-flve minuti'S, Then take the artichojces from the pan and place in a deep serving dish and serve with a Sauce a. la Maltre d'Hotel, a Drawn Butter Sauce, a Hollandaise Sauce, or any sauce de- sired. Artichokefv A la Vinaigrette. Artichauts a. la Vinaigrette. Fine, Tender Young Artichokes. 3 Table- spoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 1 Shallot, The Yolk of a Hard-Boiled Egg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare and boil the artichokes as in recipe for French Artichokes Boiled (see recipe.) Serve with the following sauce: Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, dilute It with two teaspoonfuls of vinegar, blend well, season to taste with salt and pepper; 189 chop the shallot very, very fine, add to the mixture, and then add gradu- ally three tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. Mix all together well. Place ■ the artichokes on a folded napkin on a dish, and send to the table with the sauce in a separate dish. Stuffed Articliokes. Artichauts Parois a, la Barigoule. 3 Quarts of Boiled Artichokes. 1 Ouion, ilinced. 2 Cloves of Garlic. V2 Square Incli of Ham. 1 Tables?oonful Butter. M, Can of Muslirooms. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean and boil the artichokes ac- cording to recipe. (Boiled Arti- chokes.) When the leaves begin to be tender and it is possible to pull out a leaf without difficulty, take the artichokes off the fire. Pull off a few of the coarse leaves, and then scoop out the artichoke, without touching the "fond," or bottom meat, and with- out breaking the outer scales or leaves from the sides and around. The artichoke must be apparently whole and undisturbed. Then chop an onion, or, rather,- mince it very fine, and mince two cloves of garlic and half a square inch of ham very, . very fine. Take a quarter of a can of mushrooms and mince them fine. Mix all this together as a stuffing, and season well w^ith salt, pepper and Cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, and fry the dressing in it for about five or ten minutes. Takp'pff the flre. and stuff each artichoke from the center, which you will have scooped, beginning Just above the heart or "fond" of the ar- tichoke. Pour over each a spoonful of broth or consomm6, or water; sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; put a dot of butter on each, and set . in the oven and bake for five min- utes, till the crumbs are nicely browned. Serve immediately, using, if you wish, a Drawn Butter Sauce, but it is unnecessary. (See Beurre a. la Maltre d'Hotel.) ASPARAGUS. Des Asperges. Asparagus is a vegetable of very delicate flavor, and is much sought after and highly esteemed by epi- cures. It is a dainty accompaniment to the most elegant feast. Boiled Asparagus. Asperges en Branches. 1 Can of Asparagus or 2 Bunclies of Fresh Asparagus. % Pint of Hollandalse or 1 Gill of Drawn Butter Sauce. When it is possible to get fresh asparagus, carefully wash it in cold water, and cut off the tough white ends. Scrape the white part well, and throw it into cold water, to soak for half an hour. Then tie it in, small bundles, and put it in a sauce- pan lined with porcelain. Pour over boiling water, and let it cook for twenty minutes. Add a teaspoonful of salt and cook ten minutes longer. Take the asparagus up nicely. Drajn off all water. Lay on a folded nap- kin, and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See recipe.) Asparagus is generally bought in New Orleans in cans, being very nicely prepared. It requires simply to be set on the stoye and allowed to heat, as it is already cooked. Take out of the can by turning it downward in a dish, let- ting the aspai-agus slide gently out. Drain off all water, and place on a folded napkin, and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See recipe.) Asparagus Vinaigrette Sauce. Pointe d' Asperges a. la Sauce Vinai- grette. 1 Can of Asparagiis. Vi Pint oi! Vinaigrette Sauce. Prepare the asparagus as in the above recipe. Drain and set to cool. Serve with a half pint of Vinaigrette Sauce. (See recipe.) Asparagus Tips With Green Peas. Pointes d'Asperges aux Petit Pois. 1 Can of Asparagus or 2 Bunches of Fl'esh Asparagus. 1 Can of Green Peas or 1 Pint of Fresb Green Peas. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 6 Tablespoonfuls of Cream Sauce. 6 or S Buttered Croutons. Cut the tender parts of the as- paragus into pieces of about one inch in length. , Take the asparagus wa- ter, in which they were put up,, and set on the stove to heat, and add the canned green peas to tlie fresh peas that have already been boiled. Throw in the asparagus tips, and add water sufficient to cover. Boil rapidly for ten minutes; then drain very thor- oughly and return to the flre, having added one tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper and six tablespoonfuls of Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Stir carefully, so that you may not break the tips and serve on neat Crofltons of buttered toast, or place in a dish and bring piping hot to the table as an entrg. The coarse ends of the as- paragus must not be thrown away, but may be utilized In a very nice Cream of Asparagus Soup. (See re- cipe.) BBAIVS. ^ Des Haricots. Beans, whether white or red, are among the most nutritious of food substances. In all the ancient homes of New Orleans, and in the colleges and convents, where large numbers of children are sent to be reared to be strong and useful men and women, several times a week there appear 190 on the table either the nicely cooked dish of Red Beans, which are eaten with rice, or the equally wholesome White Beans a. la Crfeme, or Red or White Beans boiled with a piece of salt pork or ham. String Beans a la Sauce de Maitre d'Hotel, or boiled with a piece of salt pork or or ham, are also classed among the especial- ly nutritious beans. The Creoles hold that the boys and girls who are raised on beans and rice and beef will be among the strongest and sturdiest of people. String Beans W^ith Batter Sauce. Haricots "Verts k la Maitre d'Hotel. 2 Quarts of Fresb, Tender String Beans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Always select tender beans. Break the blossom end, and pull it back- ward, removing the string. Then be careful to pare the thin strip from the other end of the bean pod. It is only in this way that you will be sure that every inch of string is removed. Split the larger beans down the pod, and let the younger and more tender re- main whole. Wash them in clear, cold water, letting them stand about ten minutes. Then drain off the wa- ter, put the beans into a saucepan, cover well with boiling water, and let them boil for forty minutes or an hour, according to the tenderness of the beans. Just before serving drain off water, put a large tablespoonful of butter into the beans, mix well, sat and pepper to taste, and serve hot. String Beans frith Cream Sauce* Haricots Verts a, la CrSme. 2 Quarts of Fresh String Beans. 1 Table- spoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. ^ Cup of Fresh Milk or Cream. Salt and Pepper to Taste. String and wash the beans accord- ing to the first recipe. Place in a saucepan and cover with boiling wa- ter. Let them boil for an hour. Then drain off the water. Take a table- spoonful of butter and one of flour, and blend well. Add a half cup of fresh milk or cream, or one-half pint of the water in which the beans have been boiled. Season nicely with salt and pepper. Stir in the beans; set them back on. the stove for several minutes; let them simmer gently. Season again with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. The flour may be omitted, and, instead, dilute but do not boil after adding the eggs. the milk with the yolk of two eggs. String Beans, Brittany Style. Haricots Verts t la Bretonne. 2 Quarts of Fresh String Eeans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Pint of Chicken Consomme or "Water. 1 Medium-Sized Onion. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take a medium-sized onion, peel and cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Put the onion in a saucepan with the butter and let it sautg to a gold- en brown. Add the flour gradually, blending well, a:nd moisten with the consommg or water. Let the mixture come to a boil and skim the broth; then add the string beans, which have already been boiled and drained. Let them simmer for ten minutes, adding in the meantime one, flnely-mlnced clove of garlic. After ten minutes, place the beans in a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve hot. String Beans & la Vinaigrette. Haricots Verts a, la Vinaigrette. 2 Quarts of String Beans. A Sauce a la Vinaigrette. Boil the string beans according to recipe. (See recipe String Beans with Butter Sauce.) When done, drain and serve with a Vinaigrette Sauce. Gar- nish the dish with sliced lemon dip- ped in parsley, which has been chopped very flne, and small gherkins cut in fan shapea. \ String Beans & la Poulette. Haricots Verts a la Poulette. 2 Quarts of String Beans. A Sauce a la Poulette, Boil the beans as in the recipe for String Beans with Drawn Butter Butter Sauce. Drain and serve with a Sauce a, la Poulette poured over. String Beans Boiled With Ham. Haricots Verts au Jambon. 2 Quarts of String Beans. 1 Pound of Lean Ham or Salt Pork. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Proceed to prepare the beans in exactly the same manner as men- tioned above. Throw them into cold water, and let them stand for about ten minutes. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling water in which you will have placed a pound of salt pork or ham, and allowed to boil for al- most an hour. Drain the beans and put them into this, and let them boil forty minutes or an hour longer. Sea- son with pepper only, and serve, placing the salt pork or ham in the center of the dish, and heaping the beans around. This is an excellent way of utilizing the ham bone which is left over from the boiled ham. The Creoles like the flavoring of ham 191 or salt pork in vegetables. A bit of fine herbs, nicely minced, and one on- ion, minced fine, greatly add to the flavor of this dish. String Beans Panaches. Haricots Verts Panach6s. 1 Pint of String Beans. I Pint of Lima Beans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the string beans and out them Into pieces of about three-fourths of an inch in length; mix them with an equal quantity of boiled Lima beans (see recipe); put them in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter; let them saute for five minutes, and toss continually while cooking. Sea- son with salt and pepper to taste, place on a hot dish, sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley and serve hot. REID BEANS. Haricots Rouges. Red Beans are the favorite dish among Creole families, the great amount of sustenance to be found in this and the White Bean commending it especially as a food for growing children and adults who labor hard. The beautiful color and excellent fla- vor of the Red Bean has won for it a place among the most highly es- teemed legumes. Red Beans, Plain Boiled. Haricots Verts au Naturel. 1 Pint of Dried Red Beans. % . spoonful of Lard or Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. This is an excellent way of prepar- ing red beans for Fridays and fast days. Soak the beans in cold water over night, or at least five or six hours, and drain off the water, and place them in a pot of cold water, using at least a quart of water to a pint of beans. Let them boil for at least an hour and a half or two hours, and then season nicely with salt and pepper. Add a half table- spoonful of lard or butter, let them cook for fifteen minutes more, and serve in their own juice. This dish Is excellent with boiled rice. Red Beans, Burgundy Style. Haricots Rouges a, la Bourguigpnne. 1 Quart of Red Beans. 1 Ounce of Butter. 1 Onion. 2 Cloves. 1 Herb Bouquet. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Glass of Claret Wine. 6 Small Glazed Onions. Pick and wash the beans and let them soak in cold water for six hours Drain thoroughly, and put in a suce- pan, with sufficient fresh cold water to cover. Add a tablespoonful of but- ter, and a medium-sized onion, with two cloves stuck in it. Boil for about twenty minutes, and then add a glass of Claret. Stir well, and let the beans cook for three-quar- ters of an hour longer, stirring fre- quently to keep from scorching. Then remove from the fire, take out the herb bouquet and onion, pour the beans into a hot dish, and decorate the edges with a half dozen small glazed onions. (See recipe.) Serve hot. Red Beans & la Conde Puree a, la Cond6 See recipe under heading "Soups." 'This is a most nutritious dish. Red Beans and Rice, Haricots Rouges au Riz. 1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 1 Pound of Ham or Salt Meat. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the beans and soak them over night, or, at least five or six hours, in fresh, cold water. When ready to cook, drain off this water and put the beans in a pot of cold water, cov- ering with at least two quarts, for beans must cook thoroughly. Let the water heat slowly. Then add the ham or salt pork, and the herbs and onion and carrot, minced fine. Boil the beans at least two, hours, or until tender enough to mash easily under pressure. When tender, remove from the pot, put the salt meat or ham on top of the dish, and serve hot as a vegetable, with boiled rice as an entrfie, with Veal Sautfi, Daube a, la Mode, Grillades k la Sauce, etc. Purge of Red Beans. Purge d'Haricots Rouges. 1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Pound of Ham or Lean Salt Pork. % Pint of Creim or Milk. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare the beans as in the preced- ing recipe if it is desired to make a purge (not a soup). Remove the beans from the fire as soon as they will mash very easily under pressure. Take out the bits of ham. Press the beans through a colander. Add a ta- blespoonful of butter as you return them to the pot in which they have been boiled, and a half pint of cream or milk, or sufficient according to quantity to make the pur6e of the consistency of thick starch or mashed potatoes. Season with salt and pep- per, and serve. Thus prepared, red beans may be eaten by the most deli- cate invalid with excellent results as to recuperation. 192 Bacon and Bean^ H la Creole. Haricots au Petit Sal6 a, la Creole. 1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 1 Pound Bacon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Soak the beans' over night. Drain off all water. Place in a pot and cover "well with cold water, in the proportions already mentioned. Add the bacon, leaving- it in a single square piece. When both have boiled about two hours, season well with pepper and a little salt, if necessary, and place the bacon in the center of a baking- dish. Drain the beans and put them around the bacon. Fill the pan to the top with liquor in which the beans have been boiled, and bake one hour and a half, or until the liq- uor is nearly all absorbed. Then serve hot. This is a favorite dish with the little Creole children, and, is most wholesome and palatabe. White or fed beans may be cooked in this fashion. Bean Polenta. Polente d'Haricots. 2 Cups of Dried Beans. 1 Tatlespoonful of Molasses. ^ TalJlespoonful' of Mustard. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoontul of Vinegar. Juice of 1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Use either white or red beans. Wash two cupfuls of dried beans, having previously soaked them over night. Pour off the water. Put the beans in the stewpan and cover with fresh cold water, and cook the beans until tender. Pour into a colander, and press the beans through. Put this pulp into the stewpan, and add one tablespoonful of ready-made mustard, one tablespoonful of mo- lasses, one of butter, one of vine- gar, the juice bi an onion, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve very hot, as a vegetable. WHITE BEANS. Des Haricots Blancs. White Beans may be prepared in exactly the same manner as red beans, using any of the above re- cipes. By many the white bean is preferred as the more delicate bean. Wlilte Beans it la Maltre d'Hotel. Haricots Blancs S. la Maitre d'Hotel. 1 Quart of -Wblte Beans. 2 Sprigs of Minced Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. Prepare the' white beans and cook in exactly the same manner as red beans a la Maltre d'Hotel. Before adding the butter, however, add a minced sprig of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Let them simmer for a few minutes on the fire, and then take oft and add the juice of a lemon. DRIED PEAS. Des Pois Sees. All dried peas, whether the Black- eyed Peas, Lady Peas, etc., may be cooked according to any of the above recipes. Be careful to soak them over night in cold water, or at least six hours from the early morning, be- fore beginning to cook. COAVPEAS. Pois Congris. These peas are utilized by the Cre- oles in making that famous dish, "Jambalaya au Congri." (See recipe under heading "Louisiana Rice.') On Fridays the rice and peas, which are always boiled separately, must not be cooked with meat, if this day is kept as a fast day. The pea)s and rice are mixed well together and are eaten ■with butter. BUTTERBEANS. FSves Plates. 1 Pint of Butterbeans. 2 Pints of -Water. J Tablespoonful (heaping) of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. The butterbean is one of the most recherche and delicate of our Louisiana vegetables. Soak the but- terbeans for about a half hour in water. Pour off this cold fresh wa- ter, and then put them in a porce- lain lined saucepan, or one of agate, and cover with two pints of water. Let them boil well for about an hour, or less, if they are very tender. As soon as they crush easily under pres- sure, take off the fire, drain off water, season well with salt and pepper. Butter well with a heaping table- spoonfu\ of butter, add a teaspoonful of parsley, minced very fine, and serve hot. This is a delicious and welcome dish at the most elegant tables. Butterbeans are raised so extensively in Louisiana that they &.re very cheap and may always grace the poor mans table as well as the rich. LIMA BEANS. Haricots k Rames. 1 Pint of Lima Beans. 3 Pints of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Pint of Cream. Salt and -Pepper to Taste. The younger the Lima beans the better . It is a great mistake to al- low the beans to grow large and hard. Sort the beans as you shell them, and save the very large ones for a purge. Soak the small ones over night. Drain the water wh^en about to cook, and put in a porcelain or agate saucepan, and cover with three pints of boiling water. Boil them until very tender, which will require at least two hours. After they have boiled one hour, add a teaspoonful of 193 salt, or salt to taste. When done, drain the beans and return to the saucepan. Add a half pint of cream or milk, a tablespoonful of flour, blended well with butter, salt and pepper to taste, a sprig each of thyme and parsley and bay leaf minced very fine. Let all simmer for ten min- utes, and" tTien serve hot. Or the beans may be served without the cream, simply buttering well and ad- ding salt and pepper to taste. All shelled beans, such as the Kidney and the small French bean, may be cooked in the same way. The larger Lima Beans may be saved, and will serve some day during the week for a pu- rge. Bean Croquettes, Haricots en Croquettes. 1 Pint of Beans. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Gayeune to Taste. Any remains of left-over beans may be nicely utilized in this way. Mash the beans well by pressing through a colander. Then add salt and pepper to taste, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and a tablespoonful of melt- ed butter. Form Into small bou- lettes, or balls, and dip in a raw egg, well beaten, and then roll in the bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat, and serve hot. BBBTS. Des Betteraves. We have in New Orleans two crops of beets, the winter beet and the summer beet. Summer beets require less time to boil than the winter. Good judgment must always be the guide. Beets may be kept several days when boiled, and make a beautiful . garnish. The small winter beets may be served aux Beurre Maitre dHotel, or they may be sauted in butter or served Sautfies a. la Cr§me or a. la Bechamel. Beet roots are generally served as a salad or garnish. Always cut off and save the green tops of the beets. These may be boiled with salt meat, or made into a pur§e, or used in the famous Creole Gumbo aux Herbes. Boiled Beets. Betteraves Bouillies. 6 Beet Roots. 2 Quarts of Water. A Plain French Dressing (if seryed as a salad). Cut off the beet tops and sa.ve for boiling or purfie or gumbo. Soak the beets in cold fresh water, and wash well, taking off every particle of earth that may adhere. Wash them carefully, without scraping them. If the beet is very tender. It will cook in an hour. Older beets require all the way from three to four hours, according to size. If the beet is wil- ted or tough, no amount of boiling will ever make it perfectly tender. If you break the skins of the beets before cooking, the flavor will be lost, a-s well as the color, when boiled. Put the beets into a pot of cold wa- ter, covering well, and boil until tender. Then set them to cool. When cold, slice nicely and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and add vinegar, and set aside for an hour, for the vinegar to pene- trate thoroughly. Serve as a salad. Buttered Beets. Betteraves au Beurre. 6 Beet Boots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. The small winter beets may be served aux Beurre Maitre d'Hotel, by cooking very tender and then slic- ing nicely, and pouring over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, and sprinkling nicely with salt and pep- per. Vinegar may also be added at the table, according to the taste. Beet Roots SautSd In Butter. Betteraves Sautges au Beurre. 6 Beets. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. A Pinch of Black Pepper. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. Boil the beet roots as in recipe for Boiled Beets. (See recipe.) When cooked, peel neatly and cut up into dice-shaped pieces. Put them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, season with a little pinch of black pepper and salt to taste, and sprinkle the powdered sugar over them. Let them cook for five min- utes, tossing them lightly and almost constantly. Send to the table hot as a vegetable. Beet Roots Saute & la Bechamel on a la CrCme. Betteraves Sautfies a, la Bechamel ou a, la CrSme. 6 Beet Roots. 1 Ounce of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. % Pint of Bechamel or Cream Sauce. Prepare the beets exactly as in the preceding recipe, and about five min- utes before serving add half a pint of hot Bechamel or Cream Sauce. Serve as a vegetable. Borecole or Curled Kale. Chou Vert. This is a vegetable cultivated by Louisiana truck farmers principally for family use. It requires frost to make it good for the table. It is treated and served in the same man- ner as cabbage; all recipes for cook- ing cabbage may, therefore, be used in preparing Chou Vert. BROCCOLI. Chou Broccoli. Broccoli is a vegetable of the same order as the Cauliflower, and resem- bles it very much, only the plant does 194 not form such compact heads, and is not quite so white, being of a green- ish cast. Such fine Cauliflower is raised in and around New Orleans that very little Broccoli is planted. Further north than New Orleans, however, where Cauliflower does not succeed, it is substituted for it, as the hardier plant. It thrives easily, and in season is always to be found In the New Orleans market, selling much cheaper than Cauliflower, and is used very frequently as a substi- tute. It is prepared and served in all ways in which Cauliflower is served. (See recipes for Cauliflower.) BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Choux de Bruxelles. 1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts, % Gallon of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. Pick the sprouts carefully, reject- ing all loose, dead leaves, and then throw the sprouts into cold fresh wa- ter, so that any lurking insects may be drawn out. Wash and pick care- fully after the sprouts have remained' about twenty minutes in the water. Then put them into half a galon of boiling water, and add immediately a tablespoonful of salt and a quarter of a spoon of bicarbonate of soda (cooking soda). Let the sprouts boil (uncovered) for twenty minutes, or just long enough to make them ten- der all through. By no means must they be soft, or go to pieces. Boil rapidly. Then drain in a colander, season well with pepper and salt, and serve in a heated dish with a Drawn Butter Sauce poured over. (See sauces.) Brussels Spronts SautCd in Butter. Choux de Bruxelles Sautgs au Beurre. 1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. , 1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. Salt and Pepppr to Taste, Prepare the Brussels Sprouts care- fully as in the preceding recipe. Af- ter washing, drain thoroughly and boil them in salted water for ten minutes. Take out of the hot wa- ter, drain and put Into cold water. Drain again and put them in a sauce- pan, with two tablespoonfuls of but- ter. Season according to taste with salt and pepper, and add a teaspoon- ful of chopped parsley. Let them ■ cook slightly for ten minutes more, or less if very tender, and serve hot. Brussels Sprouts ft la Cr&me. Choux de Brussels a la Cr&me. 1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. H Cupful of Cream or Milk. A Pinch of Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare and boil the Brussels Sprouts as in the preceding recipe. Drain thoroughly, and put in a sauce- pan, with two tablespoonfuls of but- ter, and season with salt and pepper to taste, and a pinch of nutmeg. Add a half cup of cream or milk, and toss lightly for five or ten minutos, but do not let them boil. Place on a 'hot dish, garnish nicely and serve hot. cabbage;. Du Chou. Cabbage is said to be the most nu- tritious of all vegetables. It en- ters largely Into the daily life of the Creoles, not only in the boiled and creamed and stuffed states, but also in that most delightful Creole dish. Gumbo Choux. In many a Cre- ole family of limited means the good dish -of Gumbo Choux and rice, and a dish of Grillades, make not only a most appetizing and nutritious, but a most hearty meal. We have two crops of cabbage in New Orleans, the summer and winter. It is said that when cabbage is cooking the odor fills the house. But the Creoles over- come this by using a very large pot when boiling cabbage, dropping in a bit of charcoal, and not filling it too near the brim, as the old darkles say it is the boiling water that forms into steam and causes the odor. Again, they tie a piece of bread in a very fine and thin white piece of cloth. After it has been in the pot about twenty minutes remove it and burn, for the odor of the cabbage has clung to it. Repeat the process with a fresh piece of cloth and bread for about three-quarters of an hour. Boiled Cabbage. Chou Bouilli. A Fine Head of Green and White Cabbage. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Red Pepper Pod. 1 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. For boiling, select a fine white head in which the green and white are prettily mingled. The white makes the prettiest dish. Remove all the outside leaves and reject them. Then cut the cabbage head into quar- ters, and let it soak in cold water for about an hour. Then drain well, and pull off each leaf separately to discover any lurking insects, and throw each leaf into a pan of fresh water. Drain thoroughly, and put into a large pot of boiling water with a pound of ham or salt pork, and let it cook for an hour or more, un- til tender. After it has been in the 'water ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of salt and a red pepper pod, cut In two. Add a teaspoonful of Chili pepper. Cover the cabbage and boil for one hour, if the cabbage is very young and tender; boil for two hours or more if not. When done, drain well of all water, and place in a dish with the salt meat or ham on ton- 195 and serve hot. Cabbage Is always eaten with a Uttle vinegar. The Creoles serve boiled cabbage with the pepper vinegar Which they put up themselves. Cabbage and Corned Beef. Chou et Boeuf au Mi-sel. 1 Fine Head of CaTjbage. 1 Pound of Corn Beef. 1 Ked Pepper Pod. 1 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. To boil corned beef and cabbage, wash the meat in cold water and put it in a large kettle; cover with cold water. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Then add the cabbage, which you will have prepared ac- cording to directions in the above recipe, and let all boil for two hours longer. When done, put the cabbage In a dish, with the meat in the cen- ter, and serve with tomato catsup or horseradish or mustard sauce. The cabbage may be put in the pot after having been cut in four quarters and soalced, but it is always safer to pick over each leaf, for fear of insects. Stevred Cabbage. Chou EtoufES. 1 Head of Cabbage. 1 Pound Ham or Salt Pork. Salt to Taste. Pinch of Red Pepper Pod. 1 Tablespoonful of X^ard. Parboil the cabbage after cutting Into quarters. Let it boil well about half an hour. Then take it out of the water and drain nicely, separat- ing the leaves down to the heart as it cools. Cut the ham into pieces of about two inches long. Take a ta- blespoonful of lard, and put in a stewing pan, which must be very deep, or a pot. Put into this the ham or salt meat, and let it fry well. Add two chaurice, or sausage. As these brown well, moisten with half a cup of boiling water, and let sim- mer gently for fifteen minutes. When well browned, add, little by little, the cabbage, stirring it well, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half or longer, cov- ering well, and stirring frequently to prevent burning. Add an inch of red pepper pod, cut fine, and salt to taste if you use ham, and none at all if you use salt meat. Serve hot. Cabbage Stewed With Sausage. Saucissons aux Choux. 2 Dozen Fine Sansage. (Chaurice Preferred.) 1 Head of Cabbage. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. Salt to Taste. 1 Inch of Red 'Pepper Pod. 1 Pound Fresh Pork. This is a famous Creole dish, for many generations in vogue in New Orleans, and dearly loved by the lit- tle Creole children. Wash the cab- bage well, after having out it into quarters and allowed it to soak half an hour. Cut the cabbage into shreda of about one inch in width and five In length, according to the leaf. Then •cald the cabbage with boiling wa- ter for about fifteen minutes. Throw off this water, and cover it again with boiling water, and let it boll for twenty minutes. In the mean- while prick each sausage in several places, and cut the meat into pieces of about two inches in length and one in thickness; put the lard in the frying pan and fry the sausage and meat until they are about half done; then drain the cabbage and turn into the sausage and meat and the fat drippings. Cover and stew gently where it will not scorch, for at least forty minutes; season with salt, and add, immediately after turning in the cabbage, an inch of red pepjper pod. Let all simmer till the cabbage is quite done, and then put in a dish with the sausage and meat piled in the center, and the cabbage heaped around as a border. Creamed Cabbage. Chou t la CrSme. 1 Head of Tender White Cabbage. A Cream Sauce. Take a fine delicate head of white cabbage; cut it in quarters and soak in cold water for an hour. Then re- move all the hard parts, and cut the remainder into fine shreds. Put it into the stewing pan and pour over boiling water enough to cover; sea- son with salt and pepper; let it boil at least thirty minutes, and then drain in a colander. Have ready a heated dish; turn the cabbage into this and pour over a Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Cabbage Sauted With Cream. Chou SautS a. la CrSme. A Fine Head of White Cabbage. 1 'Cuptul of Cream or Milk. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. A Pinch of Black Pepper. Salt to Tasto. Prepare the cabbage according to •recipe. Blanch in hot water for ten "minutes, then ilrain and throw into fcold water. Drain again, and chop Hip the cabbage and put into a sauce- !pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- ter; add the salt to taste, and the black pepper. Take a tablespoonful of flour and blend well with a little milk, and then mix well with a cup of cream or milk. Add this to the cabbage and mix well, and let all teook for three-quarters of an hour or an hour, till done; arrange neatly on a hot dish and serve. Stuffed Cabbage Chou Farci. ' 1 Head of Fine White Cabbage. 1 Dozen Fine Chaurice. 2 Onions. 1 Tomato. 1 Clove of Garlic. « 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Spoonful of Butter. Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Select a fine head of cabbage. Take away the .big, green leaves, and se- 196 lect about twelve of the finest and nicest of the large white leaves. Put them in cold water for about an hour; then parboil for about twenty min- utes in boiling water. In the mean- time, prepare a stuffing with a doz- en fine chaurice, one onion (chopped fine), a tablespoonful of butter and a tomato. Mince the sausage meat very fine after taking out of the cas- es, and also the onion and tomato. Mince, fine one sprig each of thyme, parsley and bay leaf; add one square inch of finely-minced ham. Put the butter in the frying pan, and as it browns add the onions; let these brown, and add the sausage meat and the ham. Mince four or five of the tender white leaves of the cab- bage very fine and add; then add the minced clove of garlic and onion; let these brown for five minutes, and then let all simmer for about ten minutes. Take out, and take each leaf by leaf of the cabbage and drain dry; lay open on the table and put In each leaf equal quantities of the stuffing; fold over and close nicely. Then take slender strips of bacon and lay at the bottom of a wide and deep frying pan; place the stuffed leaves on top of these, and place other strips of bacon on top; cover and let thejn cook for a half hour, or until the cabbage leaves are very tender. Take out of the pan and lay in a heated dish and serve very hot. The Creoles also have a way of mak- ing a nice sauce to serve with these. After laying the stuffed cabbage leaves in the frying pan, add one square inch of ham, minced very fine; two carrots, sliced fine; one on- ion, chopped very fine, and sprigs of thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Moisten this with a cup of good bouil- lon or water, a gill of White Wine, and cover the pan and allow all to simmer well with the cabbage. At the moment of serving, place the cabbage in a heated dish and allow the sauce to reduce for five minutes longer; then strain it through a fine sieve and pour over each stuffed leaf of cabbage as It is served. The stuffed cabbage leaves may also be thrown into boiling water for thirty minutes, after being tied together well, and served with a. Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Stuffed Cabbage AVith Cream Sauce. Chou Parci &, la CrSTne. 1 Fine Head Cabbage. 1 Dozen Fine Cliaurice. 1 Onion. 3 Sprigs each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 1 Square inch of Ham. 1 Inch of a Red Pepper Pod. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Select a fine tender head of cab- bage. Pick off the outer leaves, and let it soak in cold fresh water for an hour. Then throw the whole head into a pot of boiling water for about three-quarters of an hour. In the meantime make a stuffing by talcing one dozen fine Chaurice, or sausage- meat, one oilion, and three sprigs each of thyme and parsley, and one bay leaf. Mince the herbs and on- ion very fine, and add to them one square inch of finely minced ham. Chop the sausage meat over, and mingle this with the ham and herbs, and then add the finely minced on- ion and one clove of finely minced garlic. Mix these well together. Season to taste. Take the cabbage 'out of the water, and opeii carefully to the very heart, and put in a tea- spoonful of the dressing. Fold over this two or three leaves, and then insert the mixture in between anoth- er layer of leaves, and so continue until each layer of leaves has been nicely stuffed. Press all firmly to- gether, and then tie in the large leaves, which you will have boiled with the cabbage head. Put it into the kettle of boiling -water, and add a little salt and two inches of a red pepper pod, thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Let it boil for two hours. When done carefully untie the larger leaves in which you have cooked the cab- bage, and lay the head in a well- ■heated dish. Pour over all a Cream Sauce, and serve hot. (See Cream Sauce.) SAUERKRAUT. Chou Groflte. 1 Fine Head of Cabbage. 1 Pint of Vinegar, 1 Bottle of White Wine. 1 Glass of Brandy or Whisky. Salt in Sufficient Quantity to Allow 3 Ounces for each Layer of Cabbage, The French learned how to eat Sauerkraut from the Germans, but the ancient French ouisiniSres held that the French adaptation, Chou- Croilte, w^as a very poor way indeed of expressing what the German term Sauerkraut intends to convey. The Creoles, while not overfond of Sauer- kraut, nevertheless know how to make it, and occasionally cook it af- ter ol French methods. To prepare Chou-Crofite, take a large head of cabbage, and take off the green leaves. Shred the cabbage into fine pieces, of about five inches long and one wide. Then get an earthern vessel or a keg, an-d line the bottom and sides with the green leaves of the cabbage Put in a layer of salt, of about three ounces, and lay over this a layer of cabbage leaves of about three inches in thick- ness. Cover again with a layer of salt, and pound down well, and so continue until you have used up the cabbage. Pour over this sufficient vinegar to cover, and also, if pos- sible, a bottle of White Wine and a glass of brandy or whisky. Take some boards or the cover of the keg and line them with cabbage leaves, 197 and cover the keg closely. Put the cover on the keg, or the board over the bowl, Tjrith a fifteen-pound weight on top. Set it in a place of even moderate temperature. Bore a hole in the bottom of the keg, and insert a piece of wood. When the cabbage begins to ferment, take the piece of wood out, and let the liquor from the fermentation flow through this canal. This will be in about four or flvo days. After this first operation open the keg and renew the vinegar and wine, skimming the fermentation from the top, and so continue until the cabbage is clear and without odor. The Chou-Croute, should be placed in a cool place. When ready to use, take it out and let it soak for two or three hours in cool fresh water, and when quite fresh-looking put it into a saucepan and cook as you would cabbage, with salt meat, pork, sausage or corned beef. CAULIFLOWER. Choux-Fleurs. Cauliflower may be either boiled and served with various sauces or made into that delightful dish, "Cau- liflower au Gratin." Boiled Cauliflovrer, Crenm Sauce. Choux-Pleurs a, la Crfime. 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. A Cream S^auce. 2 Lemons Gut in Quarters. To boil the cauliflower, pick off the outer leaves, leaving only the one delicate row near the bottom of the flowerets!. Cut the stem close to the flowerets. Wash the cauliflower well in cold fresh water, and then soak, with the head downwards, about twenty minutes, to drain off all possible insects. Have ready a pot of boiliag water. Take a nice, clean piece of cheesecloth, and tie the cauliflower in it, to prevent breaking while boiling. Put the cauli- flower in the kettle of boiling wa- ter, with the stem downwards. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and cover the kettle. Let the cauliflower boil from thirty to forty minutes, according to size, or until the vegetable. is ten- der. When cooked, lift it gently out by the cheesecloth, untie and set it In a dish, stem downward. Pour over it a Cream Sauce and serve hot. Place on each plate, when serving, a quarter of a lemon, nicely cut. CanliflOTver BoUea Wltli Butter. Chou-Fleur Bouilli au Beurre. 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. A Tablcspoonful of Salt. A Pinch of Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. Prepare the cauliflower as in re- cipe Boiled Cauliflower, Cream Sauce. After picking and washing thorough- ly put in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add the salt and pep- per and a tablespoonful of butter. Let it cook for a half hour and then take the cauliflower from the pan and drain through a colander. Place them on a dish and add a sauce made of one tablespoonful of butter, one of vinegar and a dash of salt and pepper, all mixed thoroughly, and serve hot. Cauliflower With "Wliite Sauce. Choux-Fleurs a la Sauce Blanche ou au Jus. 1 Large or 2 Small CaullflOTvers. A Teaspoonful of Salt. A White Sauce or Sauce AUemande. Separate the cauliflower, piece by piece, having taken off the outer leaves and cut off the rough stalk. Place them in a pot of boiling wa- ter, with a teaspoonful of salt, and let them boil rapidly for about half an hour, till tbe stalks are tender. When done, take them out gently with a skimmer, that you may not Ijreak them. Place in a bowl and pour over a Sauce Blanche or Sauce Al- lemande. Cauliflower prepared in this man- ner may be served with a HoUan- daise Sauce. I Cauliflower & la Vlnaii^ette. Choux-Fleurs a, la Vinaigrette. 1 Large or 2 Mediim-Sized CanUflowers. 1 Tatlespoonful of Vinegar. Sal', and Pepper to Taste. Boil the cauliflower as above, and •serve "a la Vinaigrette," that is, with vinegar, pepper and salt. This is a common and pleasant way that the Creoles have of serving the veg- etable. CanlifloweF a la Mattre d'Hotel. Choux-Pleurs a la Maltre d'Hotel. 1 Large or 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. ■ 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. A Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. Boil the cauliflower whole, as in the first recipe. Bring them to the table whole, like blooming flower- ets, in a dish nicely garnished, and ser\'e with a Sauce a la Maltre d'Ho- tel and lemon cut in quarters. Culiflower au Gratin. Choux-Fleurs au Gratin. 1 Ord'nary-Si.zcd Head of Cauliflower. 1 Pint of Cream. |^ Pint of Grated Parmesan and Gruyere Cheese, Mixed. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Boil the cauliflower as in the first recipe. When boiled, take it off the Are and take out of the cheese- 198 cloth in which it was enveloped. Let It cool. Put a tablespoonful of but- ter into the frying: pan, and as It melts add a tablespoonful of flour. Let these .blend nicely, without browning, and add Immediately half a pint of milk and half a pint of grated Parmesan or Gruyfire cheese. Mix this thoroughly in the sauce, and let it cook well for about ten min- utes. Put the cauliflower in a pan, or the dish in which it is to be served, having greased the dish with butter. Take some grated cheese, sprinkle well over the cauliflower, and then cover the cauliflower with the sauce, forcing it down into every nook and crevice. When these crev- ices are full, and the cauliflower seems to have absorbed all, wipe the edges and all around the dish with a napkin. Then add grated bread crumbs, sprinkling them over the cauliflower; dot it in about a dozen places with little bits of butter. Set It in the oven, let it brown, and serve hot. Let it bake about twenty min- utes, or until brown. CARROTS. Des Garottes. Carrots are among the most im- portant of the vegetables used in seasoning. They enter largely Into the making of soups, daubes, stews, etc., giving to all a delightful flavor, which no other vegetable can. Eaten "au jus" or in their natural state, they may be stewed, fried or smoth- ered. Any one of these dishes makes a delightful and appetizing entrge. Stewed Carrots. Garottes S. la Cr6me. i Carrots of Good Size. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Floor, % Pint of Milk. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Scrape the carrots and throw them Into cold water for about a quarter of an hour. Then put them In a saucepan, and cover with boiling wa- ter. Add the salt, and let them cook for an hour and a half, boiling stead- ily. After this time expires, take them out and drain off all water. Then cut neatly into one-half Inch dice pieces, or slice thin. Put a ta- blespoonful of butter in the frying pan, and add the flour, blending well, but without browning. Then add the milk, and let it simmer to a rich cream sauce. Add the carrots to this, and let them siminer gently for about twenty minutes. Then add a little chopped parsleir and sugar, and serve hot. Carrots ft la Mattre d'Hotel. Garottes a. la Maitre d'Hotel. i Good-Sized Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper. Scrape the carrots and boil them at the same time that you are mak- ing your soup, or bouillon, leaving them whole. When done and ready to serve, skim out of the soup, and place In a dish. Cut them Into pieces, more or less large, and then place them in a frying pan with a table- spoonful of butter, minced parsley, thyme, bay leaf. Add salt and pep- per to taste, and when they have cooked for about ten or fifteen min- utes pour over a Sauce t la Maitre d'Hotel, and serve hot. The carrots may also be simply boiled, seasoned, and served with a Drawn Butter Sauce. Carrots & la Ijyonnalse. Garottes a. la Lyonnalse. 3 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Onion, Minced Very Fine. Salt, Pepper, Thyme and Bay Leaf. Boil the carrots according to re- cipe given above, and then cut into thin siloes. Fry an onion in butter, add the carrots. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper, and add minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Fry ten minutes, and serve hot. Carrots SautSs a la Criole. Garottes Sautfees a, la Creole. 9 Nice Tender Carrots. 1 Tomato. 1 Square Inch Ham. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 6 Fine Ghaurlce or Sausages. 3 Shallots. 1 Onion. -^ Pint of Bouillon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Gill White Wine. Thyme, Parsley, Bay IJeaf. % CIOTe Garlic. Boil the carrots for one hour and a half. Then cut Into dice or nice slices. Put the butter in the sauce- pan, and add the onions, minced very fine, and the shallots, greens and whites. Let these brown for a few minutes, and then add the ha,lf square Inch of ham and three Ghaurlce whole. Let these simmer for three minutes, and add the minced herbs. Then add the tomato and its Juice, mincing it Well. Let all simmer for three min- utes more, till the tomato has browned, and add a half pint of ■bouillon and one gill of White Wine. If you can afford it. Let all this sim- mer for ten minutes, and then add the carrots, nicely seasoned. Stir well. Cover and let them simmer for about half an hour. Serve hot. This Is a true dish of Carrots 3, la Creole. Eat with Daube, Roast, etc. 199 CELERY. Du Ceieri. Celery may be eaten "au naturel," that Is in Its natural state; or in salad, or It may be cooked. When cooked, it is best a. la CrSme, or in a Purge of Celery. (See recipe.) Celery an Naturel. Cfelerl au Naturel. Scrape and wash the celery nicely. Then cut off the long outer leaves, leaving the tips nice and crisp. Set in a celery glass or bowl, with about one inch of salt and water, and serve as an appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre, at the beginning of the meal. Celery makes a pretty decoration for any table. The leaves that have been cut offl should be saved and used as garnishes, and also for sea- soning. Creamed Celery, CSleri a. la CrSme. 1 Pint of Cut Celery. 1 Cupful of Milk or Craam. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flonr. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut fresh, crisp celery into pieces of an inch, until you have a pint. Wash thoroughly, and put in boiling water and cook until tender, which will be in about twenty-five minutes or a half hour. Then put a table- spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add the flour, blending without al- lowing to brown. When perfectly smooth, add the cream or milk, and let it come to a boil. Then add salt and pepper to taste. Drain out the celery, and add it to the sauce, and stir gently, letting it cook twenty minutes longer. Serve hot. The dish should be kept covered while cook- ing. Celery root and the green stalks of the celery, which you do not serve at table, may also be utilized in this way, making a most acceptable and palatable dish. Celery & I'Espagnole. C61eri a. I'Espagnole. 4 Stalks of Celery. 2 Hara-BoUed Eggs. 1 Onion. Salt and Pepper and 1 Tablespoonful Vinegar. This is a form of celery salad. Wash and scrape the celery well, and then chop it fine. Chop an onion very flne, and also several sprigs of parsley. Take a hard-boiled egg and cut flne. Mix all these together, pour over a little Tarragon vinegar and oil, if desired, and serve as a salad. Celery Salad. Ceieri en Salade See recipe for Celery Salad. Celery aux Petit Pols. C^leri aux Petit Pois. 6 Stalks of Celery. 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Floor. 1 Cup of Milk or Boaillon. Cut the celery into pieces and "blanch and boil for about thirty min- utes. Then drain. Put a tablespoon- ful of butter into a saucepan, and add the flour, blending without browning. Add the milk and salt and pepper to taste. When it begins to boil add the chopped celery. Let all simmer for twenty minutes long- er, and then take off the Are and add the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Sea- son again to taste, and serve. Bouil- lon or water may be substituted for the milk. Celery With Beef's Marrow Ceieri a, la Moelle de Boeuf. 3 Pine Heads of Celery. 2 Dozen Slices of Beef's Marrow. 1 Pint of Madeira Sauce. Cut off the green leaves of the celery and pare nicely. Wash well and drain. Then tie each head near the end where the green portion has been taken away. Put them into "boiling salted water and let them blanch for ten minutes. Take out of the water and drain through a col- ander. Make one pint of Ma- deira Sauce (see recipe), add the celery to this and let it cook for a quarter of an hour. Then take the celery, place on a dish and untie. Add to the sauce in the sauce- pan about two dozen slices of beef marrow cut half an inch thick; cook for two minutes; do not allow the marrow to break, put in the dish with the celery, pour the sauce over and serve hot. Celery Patties. PatSs de C61erl. ' The Hearts of 3 Heads of Celery. H Cupful of Grated Ham. y^ Cupful of Cream. % Cup of Fine Bread Crumbs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the celery hearts till tender, then drain and pound to a paste, ^th a cupful each of grated ham, Tream and fine bread crumbs; season to taste with salt and pepper and add a tablespoonful of butter. Steam the mixture till it thickens, then fill smaU patty cases with it and serve hot. Celery Fritters. Beignets de C61eri. 3 Heads of Celery. 1 Tablespoonful of Botter. 2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut the celery into stalks thr«e inches long, tie the stalks m bundles allowing three to a bundle; boil till fendTr il salted water, then take out; remove the strings and drain; season with salt and pepper, and the grated Parmesan cheese. Dip in batter and fry and serve as a vegetable. 200 CEPS. Ceps. Ceps the strongly flavored, flat- headed mushrooms preserved in cans and imported to this country. They are much affected by Creole epicures. They are quite expensive, and are. therefore, not as generally used in household cookery as the less expen- sive mushroom. Ceps on Tonst. Ceps sur CanapSs. 3 Ceps. The Juice of 1 Tjemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 6 Slices of Toast. Drain the Ceps from their oil, slice nicely and fry lightly in a frying pan. When thoroughly heated take from the pan, sprinkle lightly with chopped parsley and lemon juice, , arrange ■ daintily on slices of toast and send to the table hot. Stevred Ceps, Ceps Sautfis. 3 Ceps. 1 Onion, Minced Fine. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 14 Cup of Milk. Drain the Ceps from their oil; slice nicely; put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add the minced onion and the clove of garlic minced very fine; moisten with a half cup of milk, let the mixture simmer gently for twenty minutes, then serve the Ceps on slices of toast with the sauce poured around. Broiled Ceps on Toast. Ceps GrillSs sur Canapes. 3 Ceps. % Pint of Sauce a. la Maitre d'Hotel. Grated Bread Crumbs. Sliced Lemon and Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Drain the Ceps from their oil; season well with salt and pepper; roll in fresh bread crumbs finely grated, broil nicely on double broiler, arrange nicely on toast. Pour over each slice some of the Sauce 9. la Maitre d'Hotel, garnish nicely with sliced lemon and serve hot. CHERVIL. Cerfeuil. Chervil is an aromatic plant, re- sembling parsley, and much used for seasonings, especially in oyster soups. It is also considered a delightful salad herb, and is often cut and mixed between lettuce, and served as a salad. It is found in small quantities, chopped, in nearly all sal- ads prepared to suit the taste of epi- cures. It is a plant little known in the North, but in this section there Is scarcely a garden where it is not found. It is especially used by the 'Creoles as a flavoring for breakfast salads, a few leaves imparting a de- lightful flavor. CHESTNUTS. Marrons. Chestnuts are much used by the Creoles in stuffing for poultry and ■game. They are also stewed, boiled or made into purges. (See recipe Pur6e de Marrons.) ' SteTved Chestnuts. Marrons Sautfies. 1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Shell the chestnuts, and then throw them into a saucepan of boiling wa- ter for twenty minutes. Take them out, and remove the dark outer skin. Remove the boiling water in the saucepan, and add the chestnuts and let them cook for twenty minutes more, or until they may be easily pierced with a fork. Then take them "out and drain, and put a tablespoon- ful of butter in a saucepan. Add the flour. Blend gradually, without browning. Add the pint of milk and then add the chestnuts, and let all cook for fifteen minutes longer. Sea- son to taste. Cbestnnts With Brown Snnee. Marrons Sautes a, la Sauce Bspagnole. 1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Brown Sauce. The chestnuts may be cooked in the same manner as Stewed Chest- nuts, as far as boiling. Then make a Brown Sauce (see Sauce Espagnole) add the chestnuts to it, saut6 for fif- teen minutes longer, letting all sim- mer gently, and serve hot. Boiled Chestnuts. Marrons Bouillis 9. la Sauce Maitre d'Hotel. 1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. Prepare and boil the chestnuts ac- cording to above directions. "When done, drain and press through a col- ander. The chestnuts must be cooked very soft for this dish. Add a Drawn Butter Sauce, and sprinkle with salt and pepper or a Sauce a. la Maitre d'Hotel, and serve as an entr§e, like mashed potatoes. CHIVES. Cives. Chives are small bulbous plants of the onion tribe.The leaves are long and slender and impart a very pleas- ant flavor to soups, salads, etc. Chives are especially used in seasoning stews of rabbits and hare, hence, the name "Civet," applied to these stews in particular, on account of the high seasoning.. 201 COL. LARDS. This is a variety- of cabbage which does not head, but the leaves are cooked and served ih the same manr her as other cabbage. But they are served, principally as "greens," boiled with a piece of salt meat. This veg- etable is not as popular now in New Orleans as it was in former years. CORN. Du Mai's. Corn in various ways is served on the Creole tables. The first young corn in the market is highly prized, but in a few days there is such an over-abundance that it can be had all summer and late in the fall at prices within the reach of all. There is not a healthier or more nutritious vegetable. The following are some of the dainty ways of preparing this delightful dish: Corn on the Cob. £pis de Mais Bouillis. 6 Ears of Corn. 2 Quarts of Boiling Water; 1 TaUespoonful ot Salt. Only young and tender corn should be boiled. Have ready a pot of boil- ing water. Remove the green outside husks and the silk, as far as pos- sible. Put the corn into the kettle of boiling water, and let it boil rap- idly twenty or thirty minutes, if the ears are large. More than this will cause the corn to lose its sweet- ness. Serve immediately after re- moving again all the silk, which easily comes .to the surface in boil- ing. Heap the corn on a platter, and serve to each person an eat-, with a small butter plate of butter,, pep- per and salt. Greea Com, Planter's Style. Ma'is Tendre a. I'Habitant. 6 Ears of Corn. 2 Quarts of Boiling Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. Husk the corn and pull off the silk, leaving one layer of leaves close to the kernels; put to cook in cold water. When the water begins to boil, after ten minutes, add the salt, but do not let the corn boil longer than five minutes after add- ing the salt, as boiling longer will harden it. Corn cooked in this man- ner preserves its sweetness and is most palatable and tender. Roasted Corn. Ma'is Rotis. Place the ears of corn which have not been removed from the husks in a hot oven, or, better still, if you can, in hot ashes, and let them roast for a half hour or more, until ten- der. Then take out of the oven or hot ashes and remove the husks and silk and serve in the same manner as boiled corn. Creamed Com. Mais a, la Cr6me. 8 Fine Ears of Corn. 1 Pint of Milk Cream. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Vi Spoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Dessertspoonful Butter. Score the corn down the center of each row of grains, and then cut from the cob. -With the knife press out all the pulp from the cob, leav- ing the hull on the cob. Set a por- celain or agate saucepan on the fire, and put into, this the corn cobs, which you will have cut into pieces. Cover with water, and let them boil until you have extracted all the Juices. ■When the liquid is reduced to about one pint, add the corn, and let it boil for about twenty minutes. Then stir in a quarter of a pint of milk, sea- son with salt and pepper to taste, add a teaspoonful of butter, and serve hot. Or, if you can afford it, boil the corn in the milk, using at least one pint, having first added a half cup of the water -in 'whiofa the corn cobs were boiled. Let all simmer gently for about a half hour, and then add salt and pepper to taste, and a spoon- ful of butter, and serve. Some like the addition of a teaspoonful of su- gar, but this is a matter of taste. Corn Sauted AVlth Batter. Ma'is Tendre Sautg au Beurre. ' 8 Fine Ears of Com. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Cup of Milk er Water. Boil the corn, and then cut the grains from the cob with a sharp knife. Put in a saucepan and add one tablespoonful of butter; add the milk, and season nicely to taste. Let the corn boil for about ten minutes and serve hot. Corn Pudding. ' Ponding de Ma'is. 1 Dozen Ears of Tender Corn. 1 Quart Milk. 4 Eggs. ' 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of White Sugar. Score the corn down each row of grains, and grate it from the cob. Beat the whites of the egg and tHe yolks separately. After beating the yolks, add them to the sugar and but- ter, which you will have rubbed well together. Beat all this very light, and then add the milk and a half tea- spoonful of salt. Blend well, and add the grated corn. Beat again, and blend thoroughly, and add .the v/hites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Stir in well, and set the mix- ture in the oven with a piece of brown paper on top. Bake slowly for about an hour, and serve hot. Corn thus prepared is delicious; it Is served with daube or roast filet of beef, etc. 202- Baked Corn ft la CrSme. Mais Rotl a, la Crgme. 1 Dozen Large Ears of Young Com. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. ^ Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Dessertspoonful of Butter. Score the ears of corn down each row with a knife, and then cut from the cob. With the knife press out all the pulp and corn juice, leaving the hulls in the cob. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and then add the corn. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add melted butter, and then add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Stir in carefully, and place the whole in a dish, which you will have buttered. Set in the oven and bake for an hour, slowly at first, more rapidly towards the end of the last fifteen minutes. Serve with roast beef, veal or lamb. Fried Corn. Mais Frit. 1 Dozen Bars Young, Tender Green Corn. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard, Salt and Pepper to Taste, 1 Minced Onion. Score the corn along each row, and then cut from the cob with a knife. Press out all the pulp and corn juice from the cob. Mix all and season well with salt and pepper. J^Iince the onion fine, and blend with the lard, . which you will have put into the frying pari. Add the corn when the onions begin to brown slightly, and keep stirring and stirring till the grain is cooked, which will be in about fifteen or twenty minutes. This Is a very nice breakfast dish or din- ner entrfie. Com Sonp, Puree de Mais. This 13 a delightful summer soup in New Orleans. (See recipe Creole Sum- mer Soup.) Corn Fritters, Beignets de Mais. 6 Ears of Corn. 14 Pint of Milk. 1 Egg. % Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Grate the corn. Then beat the egg well, whites and yolks together, and by degrees add the corn, beating in thoroughly and very hard. Add a ta- blespoonful of melted butter, and then stir in the milk. Add a table- spoonful of flour, or just sufficient to thicken and bind, and then fry like fritters. In boiling lard, dropping in a deep spoonful at a time. Serve hot. Corn Cakes. Gateaux de Mais. 6 Ears of Corn. % Pint of Milk. 1 Egg. V2 Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Prepare the batter in exactly the same manner as above, and bake on a griddle like batter cakes, and serve hot, with generous layers of butter between. These cakes are delicious. Corn and Tomatoes. Mais Sautfis aux Tomates. 1 Pint of Corn, Cut from the Cob. 1 Pint of Fresh Tomatoes, Peeled and Chopped. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Place the butter in a frying pan, and when it heats well without browning, add the tomatoes. Let them simmer for about five nainutes, stir- ring well, and then add the minced herbs. Let these stew for three min- utes, and add the corn, which has been scored and cut from the cob. Mix all thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste, and a teaspoonful of sugar, or less, according to taste. Let all stew or saut6 for about twen- ty minutes, and then stir in a tea- spoonful more of butter. Serve hot, after cooking ten minutes longer. Serve with roast meats or grillades Or daube. Com Salad. Mache ou Doucette. This is a delicious variety of corn, and is much used for salads during the winter and early spring months in New Orleans. The Corn Salad, for that is the name given to the vege- table, is boiled . and then served "k la Vinaigrette," that is, with vinegar salt and pepper, or with a plain French Dressing; or with beets, sliced. Still again, it is served with hard-boiled eggs. (See recipe.) CRKSS. Cresson. This is one of the most popular Creole winter and spring salad plants and is also considered a great appe- tizer, being served as an hors d'oeuvre, and eaten simply with salt. As a salad it is most cooling, re- freshing and healthy. We have two varieties, the broad-leaved winter "Curled or Pepper Grass," and the "Water Cress." The latter can only be planted by the side of running wa- ter, or near springs. It is delicious. It is found all through the Louisi- ana forests, along the streams espe- cially in the vicinity of Abita Springs and Covington. 203 CUCUMBER. Conoombre. The Creoles hold, and justly, that the only proper way to eat a cu- cumber is "en salade." No fashion- able method of cooking this vege- table can ever make up for the del- icate flavor that has been destroyed • by submitting it to heat. Cucumbers are best when freshly picked from the vine. When they are thrown around the market for a number of days and become whited they are not fit for table use. Cu- cumbers are extensively used by the Creoles for salad and pickling pur- poses. For salad preparations, see special recipes under Chapter on Sal- ads. The word "Gherkin" is applied to all kinds of pickled cucumbers; properly, however, the terms should be applied to the small prickly va- riety. Cucumbers, besides being served as salads and pickles, are used as relishes and as a garnish. Cncnmbers as a Relish, Concombres Comme Hors d'Oeuvres. i Fine Cucumbers. A French Salad Dressing. Wash the cucumbers, cut off the bit- ter end, and pare the skin to a suf- ficient depth to remove the green portion. Then score them lengthwise with a table fork. Put them into a salad earthen bowl and sprinkle with salt. Set in an ice box for three hours; then cut into delicate slices and serve with a French Salad Dress- ing, the dressing being served in a separate dish. In preparing cucum- ,bers to serve as a relish with fish, this is the proper mode of prepara- tion. CncmnbeTs as a Garnish. Concombres Comme Garniture. 3 Fine Cucumbers. 1 TaWespoonful of Vinegar. 1 Large Onion. Peel and slice three fine cucum- bers, and then make a marinade of one teaspoonful of sAlt, one of black pepper and a tablespoonful of vin- egar. Add one finely-sliced onion. Let the cucumbers marinate in this for an hour, and then drain and use as a garnish for cold meats, espe- cially cold Bouilli. CURRT. Karl. Curry is a condiment composed of pulverized Cayenne pepper,- coriander seed, timeric, onions, garlic, ginger root, cloves cinnamon oardamon and salt, all pulverized together and thor- oughly mixed. It is extensively used In the making of stews of fish meats and some vegetables. DAlVDBIilOlV. Dent-aerLion. The Creoles long ago discovered the possibilities of the dandelion under cultivation. The wild dandelion, as all know, is a common and hardy perennial plant. It is found in lux- uriance in the Louisiana meadows and pastures. The deeply-notched leaves closely resembling chicoree, so extensively used as a salad and as a green. Through cultivation, the dandelion is now numbered among the best of the early spring salads. (For recipe for Dandelion Salad, see Chapter on Salads.) Dandelion Greens. Dent-de-Lion Bouilli. 1 Quart of Dandelion Greens. A Ham Sbilfik. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut off the coarse roots; wash the leaves thoroughly; steep in salt and water for five hours to remove the bitterness. Boil a ham shank for two hours, throw in the dandelions, and cook gently for forty-five min- utes; then drain, chop fine; season with butter, pepper and salt. Mince the ham very fine and sprinkle over the greens; spread ov.er sliced hard- boiled eggs and serve hot. EGGPLANTS. Des Auberfilnes. This is one of our most esteemed and useful vegetables, and is served in the following delightful ways: Stuffed Eggplant. Aubergines Farcies. 6 Eggplants of Good Size. 1% Gups of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Tomato. 1 Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Cut the eggplant In the middle, and put to boil in cold water for about half an hour, or until tender. Then take out of the water and set to cool. When quite cool, take out the beeds and throw away. Then scoop out carefully the soft meat of the 'eggplant, and leave the skins un- •broken. Set these skins carefully aside. Chop the soft eggplant fine, a.nd then wet and squeeze one and a ha,lf cups of bread. Chop the onion arid tomato fine, and mince the herbs •and garlic very fine. Season the egg- 'plant well with salt and pepper. Put the butter in the frying pan (use a ■tablespoonful of lard, if you have not the butter), and brown the onion in It slightly. Then add the chopped to- mato and Its juice, and let this fry for four or five minutes. Then add the minced herbs and the clove of garlic, and almost immediately the chopped eggplant. Then add the bread at once, and mix all well. Sea- son again to taste, and let all fry for about five minutes. Take off and fill the shells with the stuffing, sprinkle 204 the top lightly with bread crumbs, dot with butter, and set in the oven to bake to a nice brown. Fried Eggplant Aubergines Frites. 2 Toung Eggplants. 2 Eggs. Flour to Make a Light Batter. 2 Tablespoontuls of Lard. Slice the eggplants very thin, par- ing them if large, and leaving the skin on if very young and tender. Make a light batter with the eggs and flour. Season the eggplant well with salt and pepper. Soak the slices in the batter. Lift out and fry in the boiling lard. When done on one side, turn on the other with a cake turner. Remove the eggplants. Drain them on brown paper In the mouth of the oven, and serve hot on a flat and open dish or platter. Eggplant Fritters. Aubergines en Beignets ou au Na- tural. 2 Young Eggplants. % Pint of Milk. Salt and Pepper. Flour. - Slice the eggplants nicely and thin. Boll them in milk in which you have put salt and pepper to taste. Pass the eggplant in flour, dusting light- ly, and fry in boiling lard. The egg- plant must float in the lard. Drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven^.and serve hot. SteTved Eggplant. Aubergines a. la Cr§ole. 3 Eggplants. % Can of Tomatoes. 1 Square Incli of Ham. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 2 Onions. 1 ^ablespoonful ' of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. , Parboil the eggplant for about thir- ty minutes. Take out of the boiling water and let cool slightly. Then skin and cut into pieces half an inch square. Chop two onions very fine. Take one tablespoonful of butter, and brown the onion in it. As it browns, add half a can of tomatoes, or six fresh, chopped flne. Add the square inch of ham, chopped very flne. Add then two cloves of garlic, minced very flne, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Let this sim- mer for three or four minutes, and then add the eggplant sufflcierit to make a pound. Let all cook, smoth- ering slowly and well, keeping tight- ly covered, and stirring bften to pre- vent burning. Season again to taste. After it has cooked for half an hour serve very hot. This is a splendid dish, and was first the production of a Creole ouisini&re. ENDIVES. De la Chioorge. Endive, or Chicorfie, is served both as a salad plant and as a vegetable. It is very popular among the CreoleB, and is much cultivated for the mar- ket, especially for summer use. Chic or6e as a salad is served in exactly the same manner as Lettuce Salad; (See recipe under chapter on Salads.) Endive Witb Cream Sauce. Chicorge, Sauce a, la CrSme. 3 Heads of Chicory. 4 Tablespoontuls Butter. 2 Glasses of Cream or Milk. A Pinch of Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Pick nicely three heads of Chicorfie casting away all the outer green leaves. Then wash the heads care- fully in fresh cold water; drain and wash again, and blanch for ten min- utes in boiling salted water; remove and throw into cold water to cool. Then drain of all the water, and chop the Chicorfie very flne. Put in a saucepan with four tablespoonfuls of butter and let cook for 3, quarter of an hour. Pour two glassfuls of milk •or rich cream over it; add a pinch of grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly together for flve minutes on the stove; then remove, put In a dlsjh, .garnish nicely with Croutons fried in butter, and serve hot. Endives With Gravy. ChicorSe au Jus. 4 Heads of Chicory. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot 1 Herb Bouquet. Vi Ponnd of Bacon. Salt and Pepper to' Taste. 1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Consomme. Clean and pick the Chicorge well, pare off all the outer leaves, and wash the heads well in several wa- ters. Then drain" and put to blanch in salted water for ten minutes; At th-e end of this time, throw them in the cold water to cool; drain and out into quarters. Put the piece of ba- con in the bottom of a sautolre on B-tewpan, and add an onion and car- rot and herb bouquet, minced very fine. Lay the Chicorge on top of this, beason with a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of black pepper, and cover with a buttered paper. Then set the sautoire In the oven, and let the Chicorfie cook for ten minutes, when it will be a golden brown. Moisten with half a pint of veal or chicken consomm6, cover and again set in the oven for thirty min- utes. At this point it will be ready 'to serve. Arrange the Chicorge on a hot dish; strain the sauce, pour over and serve. GARLIC. De I'Ail. Garlic is a great Creole vegetable, a bulbous-rooted plant, with a strong penetrating odor, and highly es- teemed as a flavoring for soups, stews, roasts and various other dish- es. Garlic is a staple product of th^ 205 lower Louisiana parishes, and is raised for home consumption and for shipping. More garlic is grown and used in Louisiana than in all the other states together. It is culti- vated like the onion. In the spring the bulbs are taken up and plaited together in long strings. One of these strings contains from fifty to sixty heads in double rows. They are then hung up in a dry, airy place, or stored away. They will keep from six to eight months. Great strings of gar- lic adorn the stalls of the French Market daily. HORSERADISH. Raifort. The roots of the horseradish are extensively used as an appetizer on Creole tables. They are an agree- able relish, with a fine, sharp, pun- gent taste. Scraped and grated very fine, and set on the table in small cups, they are used as a condiment. In cookery the horseradish is used In the preparation of sauces and sal- ads. kohlrabi, or turjtip-rootbd cabbage:. Chou-Navet. This vegetable is used in making soup pur6es or vegetable purges, and is also prepared in the same manner as cauliflower. (See recipes PurSes and also Cauliflower.) The finest va- riety, the "B^Tly -White "Vienna," is the only variety planted and sold in New Orleans. It -is an excellent ta- ble vegetable, very popular among the Italian and other European popu- lation of the city especially, and very largely cultivated. liBBKS. Poireau. This popular vegetable is a spe- cies of onion, highly esteemed for flavoring soups, etc. It is used al- together as a seasoning. liENTIIiS. Des Lentilles. Lentils are among the most nutri- tious of all vegetables. They may be made into a purge (see recipe un- der chapter on Soups), or may be cooked iTi every manner in which red and white beans are cooked. On Fridays and fast days they are sim- ply boiled over a slow fire, with a little butter, salt and pepper, and a bouquet of parsley, and an onion cut in quarters. Again, the Creoles boil Lentils with sausage, or chaurioe. Still again, they are simply boiled in salt and water, and served with a Sauce a la Vinaigrette, Sauce Sou- bise, or a Sauoe a, la Mai'tre d'Hotel. (See recipes.) MUSHROOMS. Des Champignons. Mushrooms constitute one of the greatest flavoring' vegetables known to the scientific •ouislnier. They are used in all manner of sauces, and when veal, game or fish are cooked "en braisS," or "en sautfi." They are used in "matelotes," and in nearly all forms of farcies. The Creoles, like the French, think it a crime to cook this vegetable in any form that would destroy its own peculiar flavor, or that which it is capable of impart- ing to the most ordinary dish. Stewed Mushrooms on Toast. Champignons Sautes sur CanapSs. 1 Pint of Mushrooms. 1 lablespoonful of Butter. a:be Juice of 1 ^emon. 1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 6 Slices of Toast. Drain the mushrooms of their li- ' quor, and place in a stewpan with the butter; season to taste with salt and ^pepper; cover and let them cook for ten minutes, tossing almost con^tant- Uy. Add the juice of a lemon and the chopped parsley. Place six slices of toast on a dish, garnish these nicely with the mushrooms and serve. The toast may be omitted If it is desired simply to stew the mushrooms and 'serve as a vegetable.- Mushrooms With Cream. Champignons SautSs a. la Cr§me. 1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, Vi Cup of Cream. The Yolk of 1 Egg. 1 Tahlespoontul Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the mushrooms with their juice, into a saucepan, porcelain- lined or agate. Let them simmer for fifteen minutes. Then add one ta- blespoonful of butter, .blended' well with the same amount of flour, and mixed thoroughly with the cream. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well. Bring it to a good boil, and remove from the fire, and. stir in the yolk of an egg, which has been beat- en with Sherry Wine. Serve immedi- ately in a very hot dish or bowl. To stew canned mushrooms, drain them of their liquor. Melt the but- ter in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and gradually add the flour, without let- ting it burn. Blend smoothly. Add the boiling milk, and let it boil for about two minutes. Then add the mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the fire after five min- utes. Serve on buttered toast or Croutons fried in butter. Again, the milk may be omitted, and the mush- rooms stewed in their, own liquor. 206 Aluslirooms With Cream. Champignons Saut6s a. la Crgme. 1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. % Cup of Cream. The i'olli of 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful Floor. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put tlie mushrooms with their juice into a saucepan, porcelain-lined or agate. Let them simmer for fifteen minutes. Then add one tablespoon- ful of butter, blended with the same amount of flour, and mixed thorough- ly with the cream. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well. Bring it to a good boil, and remove from the Are and stir in the yolk of an egg, which has been beaten with Sherry Wine. Serve immediately In a very hot dish or bowl. To stew canned mushrooms, drain them of their liquor. Melt the but- ter in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and gradually add the flour, without let- ting it burn. Blend smoothly. Add the boiling milk, and let it boil for about two minutes. Then add the mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the flre after five min- utes. Serve on buttered toast or Croutons fried in butter. Again, the milk may be omitted, and the mush- rooms stewed in their own liquor. Stewed mashrooms, Spanish Style. Champignons SautSs a. I'Bspagnole. 1 Pint or 1 Can of Kushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsl^. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Teaspoonful of Chives. 1 Dozen Whole Peppers. Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Drain the mushrooms of their li- quor; cut them in lozenge-shaped pieces, and put them in a dish and sprinkle with a tablespoonful of olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Let the mushrooms soak in this mari- nade for two hours. At the end ot this time, take them out and put in a saucepan and let them stew for ten minutes. Make a sauce of three ta- blespoonfuls of olive oil, the clove of garlic, minced very fine, a tablespoon- ful of minced chives, and blend well. Add this to the mushrooms and let them saute for five minutes longer on a very slow fire, without boiling, and serve hot. Fried Mushrooms. Champignons 3. la Bordelaise. 1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Olive Oil. 6 Sballots, Minced Very Fine. Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Minced Fine. 1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Fine. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the oil Into a frying pan, and, when heated, add the shallots, minced very fine. Let these brown slightly, and add the minced garlic and fine herbs. Let these brown for three minutes or so, and then add the mushrooins. Stir" well and fry for about five minutes. Add one table- spoonful of White Wine or Sherry, and serve the mushrooms on slices of French toast. MUSTARD. De la Moutarde. Mustard is grown extensively In Louisiana, especially the large- leaved or curled, .which has grown to be a distinct Louisiana variety, quite different from the European. The seed is black, and is raised in Louisi- ana, and the plant is being more ex- tensively cultivated every year. The large leaves are cooked the same as Spinach (see recipe), or they may be boiled with salt meat and served as greens. Our Creole mustard seeds are fa- mous not only in making sauces, but for medicinal purposes. OKRA. Du F6vi. Okra is a great summer disTi with the Creoles. It may be made into Gumbo (see recipe Okra Gumbos) or boiled and served en salade. Boiled Olsra. F6vi Bouilll. 1 Quart Young Okra. 1 Tablespoonful Vinegar, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Wash the okra well in cold water, and put in a porcelain-lined or ag- ate saucepan. Add a pint of water .,an;d a teaspoonful of salt. Cover the pot, and let the okra simmer for about half an hour. Take from the pot, season with salt and pepper to taste, pour over a tablespoonful of Tarragon vinegar and set to cool. Serve as a salad, and with all meats, such as daube, roast, etc. Stewed Okra, Creole Style. F6vi Saute a, la Creole. i Dozen Okras. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 3 Mice Potatoes. 1 Onion. 1 Green Pepper. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1- Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. Wash the okras and pare the ends. Place in a saucepan with one table- spoonful of butter; add a finely- minced- onion and clove of garlic and green pepper. Let all cook for six 'or eight minutes, and then "add the three tomatoes, chopped fine; also add the juice of the tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add a dash of Cayenne and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Now add the okras, and let all simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Place in a hot, deep serving dish, and cover and send to the table. 207 OJNIOXS. De I'Ognon. Onions have always been conceded by the Creoles, as also by all scien- tists, among the healthiest of food substances. The onion is indispen- sable in the kitchen. It is used in almost every kind of meat and fish or vegetable seasoning, and imparts a flavor that cannot be claimed by any other vegetable. Onions are also acknowledged as a great seda- tive. The onion juice, mixed with sugar, is largely used by the old Creoles in coughs and colds, and is almost an infallible remedy. The on- ion is used as a salad, or it may be cooked in some very delightful ways. There are those, who, being over-fas- tidious, object to eating onions on ac- count of the perceptible odor that clings to the breath, especially in eating the raw onion in salad. This should never interfere in the con- sumption of a vegetable that carries within it such important chemical juices that operate so largely in the upbuilding of the general system. A glass of milk, taken after eating a raw onion, will destroy every parti- cle of odor or taste that remains in the mouth. The Louisiana Creole onion Is fa- mous. The origin of the Creole onion is lost in the mist of years. It has been planted in Louisiana for gener- ations, and is to-day the most, valu- able of all existing varieties of ;bp- ions in the Southern States. The^bnlb is supposed to have been brought to Louisiana from the south of Eu- rope over a century and a half ago and has been cultivated here so long that it has become a distinct kind. It is a singular fact that no northern seed has ever yet produced an onion in Louisiana soil. The Red Bermuda Onion is also cultivated in this State. It is flat, like the Creole, but a little lighter in color. Both are prepared after the following methods: Boiled Onions.' Ognons Bouillis. 1 Dozen Nice, Small White Onions. 1 Tablespoonfal Butter. Salt ana Pepper to Taste. Throw the onions in their skins Into cold water, and peel them. Then put them into a saucepan of boiling water. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and let them boil about forty min- utes, or until you can pierce them easily with a fork. Then put into a dish, and drain off all water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and pour over a Drawn Butter Sauce (see Beurre a. la Maltre d'Hotel), and serve hot. The large Spanish on- ions will require about an hour long- er to boil tender. Creamed Onions, Ognons a la Crfime. 1 Dozen Small, White Onions. 1 Tablespoonfnl Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flont. % Pint of Mills or Cream. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the onions as directed in the above recipe. "When very tender, take off the fire and drain. Pour over them the following cream sauce, which you will have prepared when almost ready to serve: Put one ta- blespoonful of flour into a saucepan, and add a tablespoonful of butter. Set on the fire, and let all blend well together, rubbing very smooth, with- out browning. Then add half a pint of milk. Stir continually till it boils. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and pour over the onions, and serve hot. The young Creole onions are most delicious when prepared in this manner. Fried Onions. ' Ognons Frits. % Dozen Nice, Tenoer Onions. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Salt, Pepper to Taste. Throw the onions into cold water, ■peel them, and then cut them into thin slices. Cover them with boiling water, and let them boil about twenty minutes. Drain off the water thor- oughly, and put them into a frying pan with a large tablespoonful of butter, and season to taste, and let them fry slowly for about ten min- utes. Turn frequently-, to prevent them from burning. Again, the on- ions may be fried without previous boiling, some preferring this latter method, as it admits of the onion re- taining its flavor. Simply peel and pare and slice into round-shaped pieces. Day the pieces in milk, and then in grated bread crumbs or flour, and fry them in boiling fat for about ten minutes. Lift them out of the fat, drain well, and serve on a hot dish with fried parsley as a garnish. Young shallots may be fried by wash- ing well in cold water, cutting off the rough roots of the shallots, and then cutting the green and white to- gether into half-inch dice. Season well with salt and pepp«r, and fry in butter for about five minutes. Gar- nish a dish with parsley sprigs. Lay the shallots on these and serve hot. Smothered Onions. Ognons Sautes. 1 Dozen Small Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Quart of Broth. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the onions into cold water, and remove their skins. Then put them into a saucepan, and cover with a soup stock (pot-au-feu or boulllou). 208 i£ you have it, otherwise use water, and let them stew slowly for an hour and a half, till they are almost falling to pieces. Then drain the onions through a colander, and save the stock. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a frying pan, and add a table- spoonful of ilour, and make a Brown Koux. (See recipe.) When brown, add a half pint of the broth in which the onions were boiled. Season well with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Put the onions into this and let them simmer gently for about twenty minutes loi-iger. Serve hot. Stuffed Onions. Ognons Farcis. % Dozen Larae Spanish Onions. A Stuffing of Chaurice. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take a half dozen fine, large Span- ish onions, and put them in hot ashes to roast. When they are sufficiently cooked, which will be in about half an hour, take them out of the ashes, dust off, and peel well. Then open the interiors and fill with a- stuffing made as follows: Take a tablespoon- ful of butter and put in a fryihg pan, and add three chaurice, which you will have taken out of the casings and chopped finely again. Add. a cup of bread, which has been wet and squeezed, and mix well. Then add an inch of ham, finely chopped, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley and sweet marjoram, and one bay leaf, all finely minced. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Fry about fif- teen minutes, and then stuff the on- ions as far down in the' center as possible, and between the folds. Sprinkle the top with powdered bread crumbs and put a little dot of butter on top of each. Set in the oven and let them bake for about thirty or forty minutes. Serve with roast beef. Another nice way of stuffing on- ions is to peel the onion, scoop out the centers with a vegetable scoop, parboil them for ten minutes, and then fill the insides with the sausage forcemeat, as directed above. Line the bottom of a stew pan with fine strips of bacon. Lay over these an onion and a carrot both minced very fine. Place the onions on top of this and moisten with a pint of Chicken or Veal ConsommS. Set in the oven to bake for about three-quarters of an hour and baste frequently. Serve in a hot dish, with the sauce poured over. Baked Onions, Ognons Rotis. 1 Dozen Large Spanish Onions, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Trim the onions nicely, but do not peel them. Then put them into a kettle of boiling water, and let them 'boil rapidly for about an ^our. Drain in a colander. Then put them in a baking pan, and let them bake slowly for about an hour. Take out and re- move the skins, and place in a vege- table dish, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with Drawn Butter Sauce. (See Beurre a. la Maltre d'Ho- tel. After taking the onions out of the boiling water, if you wish to serve with "Roast Beef aux Ognons," peel the onions and place around the beef roast in the oven. Baste them as of- ten as you baste the roast, with the juices that come ff om it. Serve with the roast, using them as a garnish around the dish. Glazed Onions, Ognons Glacfis. V/d Dozen Small Onions of Uniform Size, 1 Tablespoonful Sugar. 1 Cup Water. 1 Large Teaspoonful Butter. Salt to Taste, Select small Creole onions of uni- form size, top the heads and the stems, and remove the skins, but not too closely, lest they should break up when boiling. Then take a fry- ing pan, large enough for the on- ions to lie in it, side by side. Put the butter in it first, and wh-en melted add the onions. Then sprinkle with the sugar and water, and season with salt to taste. Set oij the back of the Stove, where they can simmer gently for an hour. When nearly done, and tender all through, add a tablespoon- 'ful of flour, mixed in water, blended well. Then set in the oven, with a paper on top. Let them stand for about half an hour, and use as a garnish for beef, veal, etc. The on- ions will be nicely glazed, and will make the dish appear very beautiful. SHAIii^oTS. fichallottes. Shallots are small-sized onions, grown in clumps. They are very delicate and mild in flavor, and much used in soups, stews, salads, etc. In the green state they are also chopped and fried in butter. (See recipe Fried Onions.) PARSLEY, ' Persir. Parsley is one of the most impor- tant of all vegetable herbs, entering, as it does, into the seasoning of all soups, meats, fish and even vegeta- bles. It is one of the most beautiful of all garnishes, and gives a pretty touch to the homeliest dish. The "Plain-Leaved," the "Double Curled," or the "Beautiful Garnish" varieties are always to be found in the New Orleans market. A handful of par- sley is always thrown into the mar- ket basket for "Lagniappe." 209 Fried Parsley. PersU Frit. 6 or 8 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 TaUespoonful of Lard. Pick off the delicate leaves and branches of very young parsley, wash well, drain and put in a frying* pan, in which you will have placed a ta- blespoonful of lard and allowed to reach a medium hot state. Fry slow- ly and drain and use as a garnish or as needed. Chopped Parsley. Persil HachS. Wash the parsley in cold water, trim oft the coarse stems and branch- es and leaves, immerse in very cold water again, drain, press dry and chop very fine. Use as needed. Parsley Green. Persil au Jus. Take young parsley, wash well, strip of all coarse stems, arid branch- es, plunge into very cold water, chop very fine, squeeze in a strong kitchen towel and save the juice for coloring purposes. , Parsley for Garnlslilngr Purposes. Garniture de Persil. Take several bunches of fresh par- sley, trim off all- the coarse stems, wash In slightly salted water, drain and place in a colander. Set over a watertight vessel. • Shave some ice, cover the parsley with it and let It keep fresh and . cool for table gar- nishes. Never lay parsley that is intended, for garnishing purposes, in water, as the freshness will be quick- ly destroyed, and it will become dark, discolored, limp and slimy and devoid of all beauty or crispness. PARSNIPS. Des Panais. 6 or 8 Parsnips. V> Pint of Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. To boil parsnips. If they are young, simply scrape them and lay them in cold water. If the parsnips are old, pare them and cut them in quar- ters, or, better still, split length- wise. Let the young parsnips cook in salted boiling water in a porce- lain-lined saucepan for forty-five minutes; let the older ones cook for an hour and a quarter. When done, take them out of the saucepan, and drain and serve on a heated dish w^ith a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See Beurre a la Maltre d'Hotel.) Boiled Parsnips With Cream Sauce. Panais Bouillls ?L la CfSme. 6 or 8 Parsnips. A Cream Sauce. Proceed exactly as above in peel- ing and boiling the parsnips. "When done, drain and put into a heated dish, and serve with a Cream Sauce poured.over them. (See recipe Cream Sauce.). Serve the parsnips with boiled salt or fresh fish or boiled corn beef. Pried Parsnips. Panais Frits. 5 Parsnips. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Drippings of Roast Beet, Salt and Pepper to Taste. Chopped 'Parsley to Garnish. Brush and scrape or peel the par- snips as directed above. Then boil as directed in salted water till ten- der. When done, drain off the water and out the parsnips into slices lengthwise of about half an inch in thickness. Put two tablespoonfuls of the drippings of the roast beef in the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of butter. When hot add the sliced parsnips. When they are brown on one side, turn on the other and let this brown also. Place on a hot platter, sprinkle with chopped par- sley and salt and pepper, and serve with roast meats. Smothered Parsnips. Panais SautSs. .^ 6 or 8 Parsnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Boil the parsnips as directed, and then cut into strips of the length of the parsnip, and half an inch in width. Put ,a ,big cookingspoonful of butter ipto the saucepan, and add the parsiiips. Sprinkle weH with' salt ^nd pepper. Cover and let them fry, but ■only slightly brown, on either side. ~Serye with chopped parsley as a 'garnish < Masbed Parsnips. i Purfie. de Panais. 6 or 8 Parsriins. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Pint of Milk. ■ SAlt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the parsnips until so tender that tliey break easily under pres- sure. Then mash them well, after draining off all water. Put a table- spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add a tablespoonful of flour. Blend, without browning, and add a half Dint of milk or cream. Stir well, and as the mixture begins to boil, add the parsnips. Mix thoroughly, sea- son with salt and pepper, and serve in a dish, heaping up the parsnips in pyramidal shape. Serve with veal cutlets. Parsnip Balls. Boulettes de Panais. 3 Large Parsnips. 2 :Eggs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the parsnips, as directed above, until very, very tender. Then drain and mash through a colander. Beat two eggs very light, and .rdd the P9.r- snips, using proportions of three 210 large parsnips to the eggs. Then form the parsnips into little balls or boulettes, and fry in boiling lard, or make into little cakes and fry on a griddle. Parsnip Fritters. Beignets de Panais. 6 Parsnips. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 1 Cup of Water, 2 Eggs. % Pound of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Teaspoonful of Pepper. Boil the parsnips as directed above till very tender. Then cut into long, Harrow strips.- Make a batter by mixing the flour with the yolks of the eggs, beaten well. Then add the salt and pepper, and gradually one cup of water, till it is absorbed. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly. Add the parsnips to the batter. Dip out one at a time, in a spoon of butter, and fry in boiling lard. Serve as an entrfee at dinner. PEAS. Des Pois Sees. All dried, split, kidney or black- eyed peas may be cooked in the same manner as beans. (See recipe.) GRISEIV PEAS. Des Pois Verts. Green peas are abundant in our New Orleans market, with but a short respite, almost all the year. We have two crops, the spring and fall. ..The large peas, or older ones, are called "Des Pois "Verts," and the smaller, or French peas, "Des Petite Pois." The latter are great deli-, cacies when boiled and served with butter; the former may be utilized In making that most delectable dish, "Pur#e des Pois Verts." (See recipe in Chapter on Soups.) To Cook Canned Green Peas. Petits Pois en Conserve. The delightful preparations of French peas that come put up in cans do not require much cooking, being, like all canned vegetables, al- ready cooked. To cook these drain the peas from all liquor after open- ing the can, and put them in a sauce- pan; add a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt to taste. Set on the flre, and, when thorouhgly heated, serve immediately. Green peas are served with all roast, and broiled and sautSd meats, fowls or game. There is scarcely a vegetable that admits of such various uses with entries. Bolted Green Peas. Petit Pois au Naturel. 1 Pint of FresK toung Green Peas. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Shell the peas, and when you have a pint (sufficient for six), put the peas into (jold water, drain and put into a saucepan of boiling water' add a teaspoonful of salt to pre- vent the peas from cracking, and let them boil rapidly for at least twenty minutes. To ascertain if they are done, take one out and press with a fork. The great art in cooking green peas properly is to have plenty of water, to cook the peas very rapidly, and not to let them boil a moment longer than necessary, if you would keep them from being soggy and pre- serve their fresh color and sweetness. Fresh peas should never be shelled until the moment when you wish to cook them. When cooked, they must be eaten Immediately. As soon as done, drain off all water; put a large tablespoonful of butter into the saucepan with the peas, season witti pepper to taste, pour into a vegetable dish and serve hot. This is the very nicest way of cooking this dainty vegetable. As the peas grow older and larger, 'they may be made into purges, or cooked as follows: Green Peas ft la Bonrgeolse. Pois Verts SautSs 3, la Bourgeoise. 1 Pint of Peas. Ihi Tablespoonfuls gf Butter, 1 Ounce of Chopped Onion. 1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Fine. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Pint of Cream or ililk or Water. Shell -and poll the peas accoTding •to the above recipe. Add sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf, finely . Winced. When done, which will be" in about forty minutes, if the peas are large, or perhaps, a few minutes longer (easily ascertained by taking out a pea and pressing It with a fork), drain off all water and add one tablespoonful and a half of but- ter. Then blend the flour, and add the milk, preferably, mixing together and stirring well, to prevent brown- ing or burning. Serve hot. Some add the yolk of an egg, well beaten, after taking the peas off the fire, but this is a matter of taste; the flavoT of the peas is more perceptible without it. Green Peas, Country Style. Petits Ppis Verts a. la Paysanne. 1 Pint of Green Peas. 3 Small Carrots. 1-8 of a Head of Green and White Cabbage. A Tablespoonful of Butter. % Pint of Consomme of Veal or Chicken. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Shell the peas; take three small carrots, and one-eighth of a head of cabbage, and one-quarter head of let- tuce, and cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Put a tablespoonful of but- ter in a saucepan and let the dice- shaped vegetables smother for about fifteen minutes over a slow Are with- out browning. Add the green peas 2n and the consomme, and let aU cook for a half hour, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and use a sprinkling of T3hoi)ped parsley as a garnish. Green Peas, French Style. Petit Pois Verts a, la Frangalse. 1 Pint of Fresh Green Peas, or 1 Can. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cup of Water. 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Lettuce Heart. 1 Onion. 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Shell the peas and wash and drain them. Put them into a saucepan, with one tablespoonful of butter; add the herb bouquet, the onion whole, and the lettuce heart, and cover with cold water, and let them simmer slowly for about twenty minutes, or until tender. Then drain off the wa- ter, remove the onion and herb bou- quet, lay the lettuce heart on a dish, and add another tablespoonful of but- ter to the peas. Let them cook for five minutes longer. Pour the peas over the lettuce heart and send to the table hot, and serve with chops or cutlets as a vegetable. Green Peas, Old Creole Style. Petits Pois Verts t I'Ancienne Mode Creole. 1 Pint of Tounj Green Peas. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cup of Cream. The Yolk of 1 Egii. 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Shell and clean the peas careful- ly. Put them in a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of butter, and cover with a cup of water; season wtih a pinch of salt, and let them cook for twenty minutes, or until tender. Take three tablespoonfuls of cream and beat with the yolk' of one egg; add a half pinch of white pep- per, and mix thoroughly with the peas. Add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, stir well, and let all cook to- gether for five minutes and serve hot. PnrSe of Green Peas ft la CrSoIe. Purge de Pois Verts a. la Creole. 1 Pint of Green Peas. 1 Cup of Milk or Cream A Pinch of Salt and White Pepper. 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. Shell and clean the peas well; then put them in a saucepan with the cream and a half cup of water, and let them simmer till they become quite soft. Then remove the pan from the fire; rub the peas through a fine sieve; season well with the salt and pepper and sugar; add a tablespoon- ful of butter; beat the butter in well with the peas; set on the stove for five minutes and serve hot. Peas thus prepared are served as a vege- table with entrees and other meats. Puree of Green Peas ft la St. Germain. Puree de Pois Verts a, la St. Germain. 1 Pint of Green Peas. 1 Pint of Chicken Broth. 1 Pint of Sweet Cream. 1 Herb Bouquet. 2 Sprigs of Mint. A Pinch Each of Salt and White Pepper. 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 8 Chicken Quenelles to Garnish. Shell and clean the peas and put them in a saucepan or sautoire, with one pint of chicken broth and one pint of sweet cream. Add an herb bouquet, in which you will have tied two sprigs of mint. Let the peas cook for twenty minutes, or until very tender, and then remove the herb bouquet and mint; take from the fire, and run the peas through a sieve. Season with salt and pep- per and a little powdered sugar; add a tablespoonful of butter; set on the fire five minutes longer, and then serve on a hot dish with Chicken Quenelles (see recipe) to garnish. Make the quenelles from the chicken left over from the broth. This is a very recherche dish. Serve as an en- tree. POTATOES. De la Pomme de Terre. Potatoes may be cooked in a great- er variety of ways than any other vegetable. They are most nutritious and are always economical as well'as palatable dish on the table. Steamed Potatoes. Pommes de Terre a, la Vapeur. 8 Nice Potatoes. A Pot of Boiling Water. Salt. Wash the potatoes well, scrubbing' thoroughly, to take off every particle of earth that adheres. Then put them in a potato steamer, and set over a pot of boiling water. Cover tight and steam till you can pierce with a fork. Potatoes should never be boiled if you can steam them conveniently, as they are naturally watery. When done, remove the Jackets, or skin, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; add a tablespoonful of butter in which you have mingled chopped parsley; and serve immedi- ately. Or they may be. served just as they are, in a covered dish. A po- tato should always be mealy, and not sogged with water, if cooked prop- erly. In cooking potatoes the time depends on the size of the potato. An unfailing test is to cook till the potato can be easily pierced with a fork. Boiled Potatoes. Pommes de Terre au Naturel. 6 Potatoes, of Uniform Size, If Possible. Boiling Water. Potatoes should always be boiled in their skins, or jackets, if possible. 212 Never be guilty of paring a, new po- tato before boiling-. Towards the close of winter, just before the new crop comes in, ther potatoes may be; parecj, so that 'blemishes may' be re- moved. But this is soa-rcely neces- sary in our State, unless the old po- tatoes have sprouted and shriveled. Wash and scrub the potatoes well, and put them on in their Jackets in a pot of boiling water, which has been well salted. Let them cook un- til they are soft enough to be pierced with a fork. Do not let them remain a moment longer, or they will become waxy and watery. Nothing is more disagreeable than a watery po- tato. When done, take them out and drain dry. Put into steamer, sprinkle with salt, and cover and let them stand over the kettle (lid open) on the fire for a few minutes for the wa- ter to evaporate. After five minutes take off and peel quickly,, and serve In a covered vegetable dish. Nothing Is more unpleasant than to be given a cold potato at the -table. Properly cooked, the potato should be dry and flaky and most acceptable. If the potatoes are old and begin- ning to sprout, it will be found better to put them on in cold water after paring or peeling, and let them cook gradually. The Creoles use the water in which the potatoes have been boiled for de- stroying the green flies and insects that infest ros'e bushes.' ' ' Potatoes With Drawn Butter. Pommes de Terre aux Beurre Maltre d'Hotel. 6 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper. Boil the potatoes according to the above recipe. Peel and pour over them a tablespoonful of melted but- ter, in which you have mingled chopped parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. Potatoes prepared in this way are delicious. Or, if you wish to have mashed po- tatoes, or a "Puree of Potatoes," as a vegetable, mash the potatoes well, and add two tablespoonfuls of but- ter; Salt and pepper to taste. Place in a dish, mold prettily, and serve hot with meats, fish, poultry, etc. A' half cup of milk or cream may be added to the purSe with very delicious re- sults. (For Pur6e of Potatoes as soup, see recipe under heading Soups.) Creamed Potatoes. Pommes de Terre a. la Crfime. 6 Potatoes. A Cream Sance. Boil the potatoes as above, and po.ur oyer- them (remembering al- ways to keep them whole) a Cream Sauce.. (See recipe.) Serve hot with fried chicken. Add the juice of a lemon. " Potatoes ft la Mattre d'Hotel.. . Pommes dc Terre a. la Maitre d'H/otel. 6 Potatoes. Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. , . . B.0J1 •J:he potatoes whole, according, to recipe, and serve hot, with a Sauce, a la Maitre d^'Hotel poured over them.' Potato Puffs. Pommes de Terre SoufliS a, la Crgole. 2 Cups of Cold Mashed Potatoes. 2 Eggs. 3 Tablespoonfuls of nream or Milk.* , 1 Tablespoonful Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. This is a nice way jto- utilize left- over potatoes. Masii the potatoes well, and put them into a frying pan with the butter. Add the yolks of 2. eggs well beaten, and stir well, and almost add immediately the cream. Let it. get very hot, stirring all the time. Then take the potatoes from the. fire, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a baking dish or biscuit pan, and fill with the mixture. Let it bake in a quick oven till brown. This is an old Creole way of preparing po-, tafoes, ancl highly recommended. Potato Snow. Pommes de Terre a. la Neige. 6 Potatoes. Salt to Taste. Boil the potatoes with their jackets on.' Then peel them and set then* before the fire, to allow all the water to evaporate. Sprinkle -lightly with salt. Then rub them through a sieve; or colander. Let the potato fall in light, flaky drops, like snow .flakes. Do not touch the flakes as they fall. Serve on the dish in which the flakes ■ have fallen. This dish is very deli- cious. Potato Croquettes. Pommes de Terre en Croquettes. 2; Cups of Mashed Potatoes, 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. 1 Teaspoonful of Onion Juice. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Ounce of Butter. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. A Dash of Cayenne. Beat the yolks to a cream and add them to the .potatoes. Mix well and then add the cream and all the othei" ingredients.' Mix well, and put into a saucepan over the fire, and stir un- till the mixture leaves the side of the vessel. Take off the flre, and set to cool. When cold, form into cylinders of about two and a half inches in length and one in Width.: Roll flrst in a beaten egg, to bind, and then in bread crumbs, and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard.> (See general directions for frying.) When done, lift out of the lard with a skimmer, and drain on brown pa- per in the mouth of the oven. Serve for breakfast, or as a garnish, for meats. Utilize left-over potatoes in this way. Serve with flsh, fried; broiled or baked. 213 Boulettes are prepared In exactly the same manner, only thyme and bay leaf, minced very fine, are added, S.nd the potatoes are formed into balls or boulettes. Boulettes are eat- en more generally at breakfast, and croquettes at dinner, especially with fish. - ' Potatoes au Gratln. Pommes de Terre au Gratin. 5 Cold Boiled Potatoes. % Pint of Cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 3% Heaping Tablespoonfuls of Gruyere or Parmesan Cheese. The Yolks of 4 Eggs. % Pint of Consomme or Water. Skit and Cayenne to Taste. Put the butter in the frying pan, and as it melts, add the flour, and let it blend, rubbing smooth, without browning. Then add the consomme or water and the cream, and stir con- stantly till the mixture boils. Then take the saucepan from the fire, and add the cheese, well grated, and the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. Beat all thor- oughly till light. Mash the potatoes well, and place, first, a layer of the sauce in the saucepan, and then of the potatoes, and so on till the sauce forms the top layer. Sprinkle this lightly with bread crumbs, and set in, the oven and let bake ten minutes. When it comes to a nice brown, serve in the dish in which it was baked. Potato Souffl& Pommes de Terre en SoufilS. 2 Cups of Masted Potatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 2 Eggs. % Cup of Cream. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Mash the potatoes well, pressing them through a colander. Then add' the butter, and beat till sm6oth and light. Add the cream and the well- beaten yolks of the eggs, and salt and pepper to taste. Then add the whites, which must be beaten to a Stiff froth. Then heap this into a dish, leaving the mound rough and uneven, so that the dish will look pretty with the tips nicely browned. Set in the oven and bake to a beau- tiful brown, and serve in the dish in which it was baked. Scalloped potatoes are cooked in the same manner, only the potatoes are cut. into dice, a Cream Sauce is madp, and a layer of potatoes and a layer of the sauce is put into a pan or shells, and then alternate lay- ers, with a layer of sauce on top. Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, and serve in the Shells or in the dish in which it was b'aked. French Fried Potatoes. Pommes de Terre a. la Frangaise. 6 Potatoes. Boiling Lard. ..Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Peel the potatoes and then cut into three-inch dice; or sections like an orange. Have ready a frying pan of very. hot, boiling lard, and let them fry to a golden yellow or brown. Do not burn. Take, them out .with a skimmer, aild'drain in a Heated, col- and'er. Stanii the colander In' the ■mouth of the oven while you fry the Remainder of the potato. When. done, sprinkle with salt, garnish with chopped parsley, and serve hot. Julienne Potatoes. Pommes de Terre a. la Julienne. 4 Potatoes. Boiling Lard. Peel and out the potatoes into long, thin strips. Then fry in boil- ing lard, and serve with beefsteak, grillades, etc. Potato Chips. Pommes de Terres Frites. 2 Potatoes Boiling Lard. Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. Have two medium-sized potatoes, and slice them just as thin as possi- ble, and fry in boiling lard. (See di- rections for frying.) Use a vegetable cutter, if you have one, for slicing the potato. Drop a few pieces at a time into the lard, and be sure to have the lard about three inches deep. Stir the slices occasionally, to keep them from overlapping the_ others. When a light brown, take oiit of the pan arid drain on a piece "of, brown paper, which you have put in a col- ander. Stand in the open oven, and continue frying. As you finish the second frying turn the first from the colander into a heated dish, and so continue till all the potatoes are fried. Serve hot. Garnish, if you wish, with parsley sprigs. Pommes de Terre Frites corres- pond to 'the American dish of Sara- toga chips.- L.yonnaise Potatoes. Pommes de Terre a. la Lyonnaise. 2 Pints of Cold Boiled Po'tatoes, Cut in Dice. 2 Onions. 2 Large Tablespoonfuls Butter. - Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take cold boiled potatoes, and cut them into slices. Slice the onions fine. Put the lard into the frying pan and as it melts add the onions. Let them fry until half done, and then add the potatoes. Fry and stir gent- ly until the potatoes are a light yellow. They must not be fried brown or crisp, but merely saut6d, or smothered, in the onions. The dish is really Pommes de Terres Sautfies a, la Lyonnaise. When done, turn in- to a hot dish, garnish with chopped; parsley, and serve very hot, with beefsteak, etc. 214 Brabant Potatoes. Pommes de Terre Brabant. 3 Boiled Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 lablespoonful of Choppeil Parsley. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard. 1 Teaspoonful of Vinegar. Cut the potatoes into small dice- shaped pieces and fry them for a few minutes in the lard. When half brown, take out of the lard and fin- ish frying in the butter to a light brown. When ready to serve, add three sprigs of chopped parsley, and salt and pepper, and the Juice of a lemon, and serve hot. Potatoes & la Bourgeolse, Pommes de Terre a, la Bourgeoise. 6 Potatoes. 1 Pint Gravy or Broth. 1 Onion. 1 Leak. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Take cold boiled potatoes and cut into quarters, and then drain and put Into a saucepan, and cover w^ith any meat gravy or soup stock that may have remained, and chopped onion, chopped leak, pepper and salt. Set on the stove and let stew or simmer (or half an hour. This is an -Excell- ent family dish, that can be made with left-over potatoes, and may be used for breakfast or luncheon. Potatoes With Butter. Pommes de Terre au Beurre. 18 Small New Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Parsley, Select for this dainty dish small, round new potatoes, about the size of a marble. Boil them for about half an hour or twenty minutes, ac- cording to the touch when pierced with a fork. Then drain off water, peel quickly, and put into a sauce- pan, with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them brown lightly, and serve with Drawn Butter Sauce, in which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Potatoes & la Cr£ole. Pommes de Terre a. la Crfiole. 8 Potatoes. 1 Spoonful of Flour. Yolks of 2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vinegar. 2 Tablespoonfpls of Butter. Salt and Pepper. Boil the potatoes according to re- cipe. Then take out of the water, drain and set to the side of the stove for five minutes, to evaporate. Then take off and pour over the following sauce: Blend one tablespoonful of flour with two of butter, and, as it melts, add about three large table- spoonfuls of water. Let it come to a boil, and take off the stove and add the yolk of an egg, which has been beaten very light. Add two teaspoon- fuls of vinegar. Beat well, and pour over the potatoes, and serve either hot or cold a. la salade. Potatoes 11 la Dlable. Pommes de Terre a, la Diable. 2 Dozen New Potatoes, About the Size of Marbles. 1 Teaspoonful of Mustard. 2 Large Tablespoonfnls of Butter. A Dash of Cayenne. Salt to Taste. To appreciate this dish, one must first hear the funny old Creole story connected with its origin. Tradi- tion relates that Jean Marie, who was one of "dose no-count Creole, what love one good game of card, one good story, and one good glass wine wid Jacques and Jules more better than work for make money for his famine," was one day told by his wife, Madame Jean Marie, to "take dat basket and go for dat French market, and buy some of dose new pommes de terre." It was a familiar saying in the old quarter that Madame Jean Marie, who was the support of her large family, also wore the "culottes" or trousers. There were constant squabbles be- tween her and her good-for?nothlng spouse, but she frequently managed to make him help her a little in the "menage." On this particular day, -Monsieur Jean Marie resented her in- terference with his pleasure. Then, too, floating visions of his compan- ions at his dear familiar haunts, jeer- ing him as he passed with the market basket on his arm, and telling him, "Parbleu, but Jean Marie, you would make one good woman, ya-as!" rose before his mental vision. He rebelled against his wife's authority, and told her point blank that he would not go. ■Approaching him, with the market basket in her hand, the enraged wife shook her fist in his face, and told him if he "didn't make quick for go to dat market and get pommes de terres, dat she would show him de next world before it bin come." And she thrust the market basket in his hands. "Pommes de terre aux dia- ble!" cried out Monsieur Jean Marie, groundflinging the basket on the ground. Madame Jean Marie eyed him for one moment. Then going up to him, with a most determined air, she coolly picked up the basket and said in a tone of voice that he had learned to know too well: "Now, I is one patient woman, yas, mais I don't let no man 'aux diable' at me. Tou hear dat hein. Now, if you don't go for dat market, as I bin tell you, I gone make you eat one dish 9. la diable dat bin make you wish all your life long you bin walk more quick." Jean Marie sullenly picked up the basket and went to market But tradition also relates that he lingered so long that when he re- turned Madame Jean Marie swore that she would keep her promise. While cooking the potatoes she poured a quantity of mustard into 215 them, and, to still further "burn his tongue, and keep him from talk so long wid dose vieux camarades, Jacques and Jules," she added a good, dash of Cayenne. "Now," she said, as she brought the dish to the table in her anger, "I go'ne make you eat pommes de terre Si la diable, for sure!" But her revenge was neither long nor sweet. The improvised dish that was intended for a punishment proved such a success that Jean Ma- rie laughed heartily as he lolled back in his chair, and declared that he was going to "make three, four dol- lar quick for ax Jacques and Jules come to one grand dejeuner S. la tourchette, and eat some pommes de terre 3. la diable with him." And so the dish was christened, and the quaint name has remained to this very day. It is made as.follow^s: Take nice, fresh new potatoes and boil them. (See recipe for boiling po- tatoes.) When done, take off and let evaporate, being careful not to have cooked them too much. Take a deep frying pan, and heat the lard to the boiling "point. When it begins to boil, drop in the potatoes, and let them fry for about five minutes. Lift out with a skimrner, drain quickly, and put them into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter into which you have rubbed well a teaspoonful of prepared mustard. Add a dash of Cayenne and two tea- spoonfuls of vinegar. Let it cook for three or four minutes, shaking con- stantly, and then take off. Add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and serve 'immediately with Grillades a. la Sauce or Grillades Panges. (See recipes.) Ducliess Potatoes. Pommes de Terre 9. la Duchesse. i Dozen Boiled Potatoes. The Yolt of 1 Egg. Take one dozen boiled potatoes, mash them, and form into small square cakes. Criss-cross them grace- fully with a knife, brush with the yolk of an egg beaten in water or milk, and set in the oven to bake to a delicate brown. Potatoes & la Farlslenne. Pommes de Terre a. la Parisienne. 8 Potaoes. 1 Kitchenspoonful of Butter. ^ Plat of Milk or Water. 2 Eggs. Peel the potatoes and let them boil till tender in salt and water. Take them out of the water, and grate and mash them into a paste. Put this potato paste in a saucepan with a kitchenspoonful of butter and a half pint of milk or water, more or less, according to the dryness of the po- tatoes. Season lightly with salt, and add a teaspoonful of orange flow- er water, to give a pleasant taste. Let all boil together, stirring con- stantly until a smooth and thick paste is formed. Then turn the mix- ture into another pan, in which you have already beaten two eggs until very, very light. Mix thoroughly, and make small boulettes or balls of this paste. Have ready a pan of boil- ing lard, place the boulettes in it, and when they are a beautiful gold- en brown take them out, drain and serve hot. The orange flower water may be omitted. The boulettes may also be sprinkled with fine white sugar, according to the true Parisian ■ style. The Creoles serve them with or without the sugar, according to taste, Sweet potatoes may also be pre- pared after this manner, and are de- licious. The sweet potatoes are al- ways sprinkled with white sugar. Potato Balls. Pommes de Terre en Boulettes. 8 Potatoes. 1 Kitchenspoonful of Butter. % Pint of Milk. 2 Eggs. Parsley to Garnish. Cook the potatoes as above, or use cold left-over potatoes for this dish. 'Mash the potatoes well, and add an fequal quantity of cold left-over meat tor pork, minced very fine. Sausage taay also be used, with or without the meat. Season well with salt and ■pepper, minced parsley and shallots or onions. Mix well with the yolks of two eggs, and form into balls of medium size. Brush with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and fry in boiling lard. Serve with. garnish of chopped parsley or with meat gravy. Potato ftucnelles. Quenelles de Pommes de Terre 6 Potatoes 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 2 Eggs. Boil the potatoes, peel and mash Very fine. Add the butter and minced iparsley, and a half onion minced very fine. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and then form the 'potatoes into balls and throw them 'for two minutes into boiling water. Take out, brush with the whites of the eggs, roll lightly in powdered bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve with fish, meat or any sauce. Baked Potatoes. Pommes de Terre Roties. 6 or 8 Potatoes. A Drawn Butter Sauce, or Sauce a la Hoi- landaise. To bake potatoes without meat, wash the potatoes well, set them In the oven in their skins, and in about an hour open the oven slightly and take the potatoes ont, one by one. 216 in a cloth, and press lightly to see jf they are q,uite soft to the touch. Then either bring' to the table In their Jackets, as mainy prefer, or pare and serve witli a: Drawn Butter Sauce, or with daubes, meats, sautfes, etc., or with any fish or meats with gravies. Stuffed Potatoes ft la Crfiole. Pommes de Terre Farcies a, la Creole. 6 or 8 Potatoes. Cliaurlce (Sausage) Forcemeat. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. This is a delightful Creole varia- tion for preparing potatoes. Select fine large potatoes, and have ready several ' nice Chaurice. Wash and peel the potatoes. Potatoes may also be stuffed after washing, by peeling carefully and scooping out the insides nicely with a spoon or sharp-pointed knife. Then make a sausage forcemeat (see re- cipe), and heap up lightly on top. Butter, a baking dish nicely, • place the potatoes upon it, and let them bake in a slow oven for a half hour or forty-five minutes, till nicely browned, and send to the table hot. Stuffed Potatoes, lienten Style. Pommes de Terre a. la CrSme. 6 Large Potatoes. The Tolk, of 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. % Cuj of Milk or Cream. % Teaspoonful of Crated Nutmeg. Bake the potatoes in the oven, and, when done, cut one end and scoop out the meat without breaking the skin. Add the yolk of one egg, the butter, chopped parsley, salt and pep- per to taste, and the grated nutmeg, and moisten all with the cream or milk. Mix well and beat very light. Then refill the skins and return to the oven for' a few minutes, 'till very hot and slightly browned, and serve. Stuffed Potatoes, Swiss Style. Pommes de Terre Farcies Si la- Suisse. 6 or 8 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Cup of Hot Milk. 1 Teaspoonful ot Salt. Peppei: to Taste. The Whites of 2 Eggs. Bake the potatoes, and, when they are done, cut off the tops, and scoop out the meat into a hot bowl; mash very fine, and add the butter, the milk and salt and pepper. Some add a little grated Gruyere cheese; this is a matter of taste. Beat all till very light, and add the beaten whites •of two eggs, and stir lightly, Pill the potato skins with this prepara- tion, heaping the flaky potatoes nice- ly on top. Brush over lightly with the yolks of the eggs, set in the oven tfo brown and serve hot. Potatoes as a Garnish. Pommes de Terre pour Garniture, 6 Potatoes. Beef, Veal or Mutton Drippings. Select nice, round potatoes, if you wish to roast them with beef. Wash them, clean, boil, or, better, steam them; peel and lay them in the pan with the beef or mutton or veal, and let them brown awhile be- fore the meat is done, basting them when you baste the meat with the drippings from the roast. Place as a garnish around the roast, and bring to the table hot. SAVEET POTATOES. Des Patates Douces. Sweet potatoes may be boiled, baked, fried or made into purges, and used in puddings and pies. The sweet potato is one of our most common Vegetables. Possessing saccharins properties, it is especially nourishing and palatable. Cooking the sweet potato is an art, for the delicate flavor of the potato is lost if it is not properly cooked. As mentioned above, sweet potatoes may be boiled, steamed or baked. Baking is the best method of preserving the flavor, and steaming is better than boiling. Sweet potatoes cannot be 'properly cooked, if they are cooked too quickly. Time is an essential ele- ment. To properly bring out the flavor of the sweet potato in baking, it should be kept at least an hour in the oven. The old Creole negroes oft- en bal^e the sweet potatoes in ashes, covered with coals. The old corn field slaves used to put the potatoes in the ashes after one meal, go back into the field,, and leave it there till the next meal. The delicate flavor was most grateful. Boiled Sweet Potatoes. Patates Douces Bouillles. 6 Potatoes. A Drawn Butter Sauce. ' Wash'"the potatoes well, using a cloth Or* brush, and removing every particle ■'of earth. Clip the edges of the roots that adhere. Put them to boil in a kettle of boiling water, and let them cook till they may be easily pierced with a fork. "Thfen drain off the water, and set the kettle on the back of the stove., Cover and let the 'potatoes steam a few minutes. Take them out after five minutes or so, and peel and serve them with Drawn Butter Saupe, or cut in slices and spread butter over them, and set in the oven for a few seconds, and serve hot with daubes, fish, grlUades, etc. Sweet potatoes are in particular the vegetable that is served -jvith roast pork. Fried Sweet Potatoes. Patates Douces Frites. 4 Potatoes. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Cut the boiled potatoes lengthwise in slices. Fry in very hot butter un- 217 til brown, and serve hot. This is a very nice way to utilize left-over po- tatoes! To fry uncooked potatoes, the great breakfast dish for fast days among the Creoles, slice the potatoes not lengthwise, but by rounds, and fry in boilirig lard. Bring to the table when a beautiful brown, and eat with butter, spread generously over. Street Potatoes au Caramel. Patates Douces au Caramel. i Potatoes. Boiling Lard or Butter. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. Boil the potatoes and then cut them lengthwise in halves. Fry in boiling lard or butter, and, while frying, sprinkle generously with su- gar. This is a delicious sweet en- trfie. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Patates Douces Roties, 6 or 8 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful ot -Butter. ' Wash the potatoes, and scrub the skins, but do not peel them. By rub- bing the skins of the potatoes lightly all over with a little lard, butter, or fat bacon, it will render the skins soft and pliable to the touch when baked; they will peel readily, with- out crumbling from dryness, as baked potatoes often do, the peeling com- ing off in thin strips, leaving the po- tato intact. Put the potatoes in a baking pan in the oven, and let them cook until their centers are mellow to the touch. Serve in their jackets Immediately. Serve with roast meats, daubes, grillades, etc., or as a Fri- day dish, to be eaten with butter. To roast potatoes with meat or pork, wash and boil the potatoes well, and a half hour before the roast pork or beef is done pare the potatoes, drain well, and place- in the baking pan, around the pork or beef, and baste frequently with the drippings from the roasting meat. Or put in the pan without boiling, and bake a half hour longer. The former is the best method. Sweet Potato Fritters. Patates Douces en Beignets. 4 Boiled Sween Potatoes. 1 Glass of Milk, White Wine or Brandy. 1 Teaspoonful ot Sugar. Juice ot Lemon. Powdered Sugar. Cut the boiled sweet potatoes into slender round slices, and steep them for a half hour in a little "White Wine or brandy or milk. Then make a light batter, to which you will have added a tablespoonful of su- gar. Add the juice of a lemon to the Making potatoes. Take each slice at a time, dip it in the batter, and let it drop from the spoon into the boiling lard. When fried to a nice . golden brown place on a piece of brown paper, and drain in the oven. Then place in the dish in which they are to be served. Sprinkle with powdered white sugar, and serve hot as a sweet entremet. Sweet Potato Pudding. Pouding de Patates Douces. 6 Sweet Potatoes. 3-4 Pound ot Pine Sugar. 3-4 Paund of Butter. The Zest of a Lemon, Grated Fine. 1 Wineglass of Good Brandy. Vi Grated Nutmeg. ' 4 Ground Allspice. 1 Piece of Ground Cinnamon, 1 Pint ot Milk or Cream. Boil or bake the potatoes, peel and press them through a very fine sieve, the finer the better. Add to them the yolks of six eggs, and beat well. Then add the butter, beating well and thoroughly, and add the sugar and milk. Beat all very light, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. - Mix thoroughly, and add the grated nutmeg, ground spices, 'and blend well with the potatoes. Add finally, if desired, a wineglassful of good old brandy or whisky, and set the pan with the potatoes in an oven, and let it bake for an hour. Place a brown "paper on top for the first three-quarters of an hour, and take it off at the last quarter for the frangipane to brown nicely. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot or cold. Sweet Potato Waffles. Gaufres de Patates Douces. 4 Left-Over Potatoes. Other Ingredients In Proportion Glren. This is a good way to utilize left- over potatoes. To every two table- spoonfuls of mashed potatoes add one of butter, one of sugar, one pint of milk, and four tablespoonfuls of flour. Beat all well together, and add one egg, well beaten. Bake In waf- fle iron, and serve with butter spread over. Sweet Potato Pone. Pain de Patates Douces. 4 Large Sweet Potatoes. 1 Teacuptul of Brown Sugar. 1 Teacupful ot New Orleans Molasses. 1 Teacupful ot Milk. 1 Teacupful ot Butter. 4 Eggs. The Zest ot One Lemon, Grated. A Small Bit ot Orange Peel Grated Very Fln«. Vi Teaspoonful of Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. H Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. Grate the potatoes and the zest of the lemon and orange. Beat the eggs well; beat the butter and sugar till creamy, add the eggs, beat well, then add the grated potato and spices and milk; beat all well together; add the grated zest of the orango and lemon, put the mixture in a well- buttered pan and bake slowly for 218 about an hour. It may be served hot or cold cut in slices. It is de- licious when served at luncheon cold with a glass of fresh milk. PEPPERS. Du Piments. More peppers are raised in Louisi- ana than in any other section of the country. The hot varieties, or "Pi- mentos," as the Creoles call them. "Chili," "Red Pepper," "Cayenne," "Tabasco," etc., are used extensively for seasoning- and for making our famous Creole pepper sauces. The mild varieties, "Sweet Peppers," or "Green Peppers," "Mangoes," etc., are highly esteemed, and are used not only in- making salads, but in other delightful dishes. The Creoles are famous for the uses to which they have adapted all peppers. • GREEJT PEPPERS. Des Piments Verts. Green Peppers may be used in sal- ads, as seasonings for various dishes, or they may be stuffed or sautfid. For Green Pepper Salads see recipe under chapter, on "Salads." Stuffed Green Peppers. Piments Verts Farcis. 2 Dozen Fresh Green Peppers. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Onion, Chopped Very Fine. % Inch of Boiled Ham. i Clove of Garlic. % Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thor- oughly. Parboil one dozen of the peppers. Then take off the skins and cut the topmost tip, and clean the inside of the peppers, throwing these seeds' away. Then take a dozen or more raw peppers, cut off the stalk or stem, and clean the insides of all seeds, throwing the seeds away. Chop the peppers very fine, and then put a tablespoonful of butter on the fire. Add one-half of an onion, minced fine, and let it brown slightly in the butter. Then add the peppers, mincedi very fine, almost mashed into a jelly, and the half Inch of ham, minced very fine. As these brown, add the clove of garlic, minced fine, and when the peppers are well-cooked add one- half a cup of bread that has been wet in water and squeezed thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and let It brown. Add a dash of Cayenne pepper. When the stuffing' is well browned and well seasoned,' take from the stove and stuff the peppers. Sprinkle a little grated bread crumbs on top, and a dot of butter on each pepper top. Put it in the stove, let it brown, and serve hot with meats, broiled or roasted, chick- en, etc. Green Peppers SantCd. Piments Verts Sautfis. 1 Dozen Large Green Peppers, 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Chopped Shallots. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. A Da^h of Sweet Tapioca. Salt to Taste. Plunge the peppers into hot boiling fat and rub off the skin. Then cut them into halves and cut off the stem and take out the seeds. Carefully cut away the ribs and let the peppers sautg for ten minutes in a table- spoonful of butter. Then moisten with a. pint of consommfi; season with the cliopped shallots, parsley and sweet paprica, and let all cook slow- ly for a half hour, or until done. Prepare fancy slices of toast, and 'serve the peppers on these with a delicate garnish of chopped yolks of hard-boiled eggs. MANGOES. Mangos. This is a bright, waxy, golden-yel- low sweet pepper, very brilliant and handsome, and exempt from flery flavor, and may be eaten as readily as an apple. Mangoes are generally served as an appetizer (hors d'oeu- vres.) PUMPKIN. Des Citrouilles — Des Giraumonts ou Potiron. We have two varieties of pumpkin in Louisiana, one a large immense globe pumpkin, and the other a more delicate and much more highly ap- preciated variety, called the Cashaw. . The former is called by the Creoles "Citrouille," and the latter "Girau- YnoHt," or "Potiron." Both are cooked according to the following methods: Sterred Pumpkin. Citrouille a. la CrSole. 2 Pints of Pumpkin or Cashaw. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Mace. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 2 Gills of Good Whisky or Brandy. Cut the pumpkin into halves and then into quarters, and pare. Then cut it into pieces of about one inch square. Place them all in a deep pot, and add suiHcient water to cov- er. Let the pumpkin stew slowly for about an hour, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Then take out of the pot, press through a colan- der, and set back on the stove. Add, for every, pint of , pumpkin, two large tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half teaspoonful of salt, one of- ground mace, one of ground cinnamon and one of ground allspice. A gill of good whiskey or brandy may be add- 219 ed, and improves the flavor. Mix all thoroughly, and add sugar to taste. Let It simmer slowly for half an hour longer, and serve hot with daubes, Grillades d, la Sauce, etc. If the pumpkin coolts till very ten- der, so that it mashes easily, it need not be pressed through a colander. If the Citrouille, or large pumpkin Is used, never cook all in one day. Cut it in half, and save the other half for some other day in the week. The Cashaw will depend on the size. Generally one is cooked at a time. Left-over pumpkin can be utilized In making pumpkin pie. (See re- cipe.) Baked Pampfetn. Giraumont Eoti. 2 Pints of Fampkin or Cashaw. A Dressing of Butter or Gravy. Cut the pumpkin in halves and then into quarters. Two quarters are enough for a family of six, if the pumpkin is large. Remove the seeds, but do not peel the rind. Place in a baking pan with the rind down- wards, and bake until so tender that it may be pierced easily with a fork.. Serve in the rind at th« table, helping it by spoonfuls. It is eaten with butter or gravy. Baked pumpkin is liked by some, but the majority of the Creoles pre- fer the stewed pumpkin. The above Is the recipe that has been in use for generations. Once eaten in this way, you w^iU never look again upon a baked pumpkin or. Cashaw. RADISHES. Des Radis. Radishes are eaten as a relish, or hors d'oeuvres. They are great ap- petizers, and help the digestion. The "Half Long Scarlet French Radish" is the only red Radish raised for the New Orleans market, and it is said that all the other cities of the Union put together do no* consume as much of that one variety as New Orleans does. There is an art in preparing the radish properly for the table. Cut the tops, and save them for Gumbo aux Herbes. Throw the radishes into a bucket of cold water and wash well. Have at hand another bucket of water. Cut the remaining tops about an inch from the body of the radish, so that only the dainty green will appear. Hold the radish by the top root, upwards, and cut the skin downwards in four or six parts, with- out detaching the radish from the stalk. In other words, open as you would an orange, without breaking to pieces. Throw the radishes into the fresh bucket of cold water, and In about fifteen minutes they will 'have opened like a rose, and the ef- fect of the white against the red Is very pretty. Fill glass bowls with these, using taste in arranging, and you will not only have a very dainty dish, as far as a relish is concerned, but a pretty table decoration. Another way is to scrape the rad- ish in spots or lengths, alternating so that there will be a streak of red and one of white. The radish is not cut open in this case. Either way is pretty and inviting, if properly done. One or two dainty leaves may be left near the stalk to improve the appearance of the dish. Radishes may be served at break- fast, dinner or luncheon. The horse- radish is used as an appetizer, and also in sauces. ROQ,UETTE. Roquette. This is a salad vegetable, resemb- ling Cress in taste. It is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the Creoles. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. Salsifis. All recipes given for cooking par- snips may be applied to Salsify, which, by the way, is considered the most delicate of the two, both be- longing to the same order. Salsify partakes somewhat of the flavor of oysters, hence the name "Oyster Plant." (See Parsnips.) Oyster Plant a la Cr6me. Salsifls a. la Cr§me. A Bunch of Fcesh Oyster Plant. % Pint of Cream Sauce. Wash and scrape the roots of the plant thoroughly. Then throw theiii into cold water immediately as you scrape them, or they will turn black and appear unpalatable. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, and cook for an hour, or longer, till tender. Drain and serve with a Cream Sauce poured over. (See recipe Cream Sauce.) Oyster Plant a la Ponlette. Salsifls a, la Poulette. ' A Bunch of Salsify or Oyster Plant. ^ Pint of Sauce a la Ponlette. Prepare exactly as in the man- ner indicated above, using instead of the Cream Sauce a Sauce a. la Poulette. Oyster Plant Sant£d In Butter. Salsifis Sautes au Beurre. A GooS Bunch of Oyster Plant. 4 Tahlespoonfuls of Vinegar. 4 lablespoontuls of Flour. A Tablespoonful of Salt. The Juice of 1 Lemon. A Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. A Pinch of Black Pepper. Scrape the oyster plant well and throw into cold water into whiph 220 put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to prevent the salsify from turning black. Take from the water, drain and cut into pieces one and a half inches in length. Put into a sauce- pan with two tablespoonfuls of vin- egar and flour well mixed and cover with a quart of cold water. Add a tablespoonful of salt, cover well and let boil slowly for three quarters of an hour. Drain and return to the saucepan and add two tablespoonfuls of the best butter, the pepper, chopped parsley. Juice of a lemon, and a pinch of black pepper. Mix well and let it heat for Ave minutes, toss- ing almost constantly. Put into a deep dish and serve hot. Salsify Pr«t..er. Salsifis en Beignets. A Buncli of Salsify. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of Water. 2 Eggs. . Vi Pound of Flour. ' 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 . Teaspoonful of Pepper. Clean and scrapp the salsify and boil as directed in recipe Boiled Par- snips (see recipe) till very tender. Then cut into long, narrow strips. Make a batter by mixing the flour with the yolks of the eggs, beaten well. Then add the salt and pepper, and gradually one cup of water, till it is absorbed. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly. Add the salsify to the batter. Dijp, out one spoon at a time of the batter, and fry in boiling lard. Serve as an eijtrSe at dinjier. SPIINACH. Des fiplnards. Spinach is one of the healthiest of vegetables, but, unfortunately, it is generally so badly prepared by the majority of cooks as to be not only most unrelishable, but unsavory as well. The great art in cooking Spin- ach is to cook it just long enough and no longer? to drain thoroughly and to have it of Just such consist- ency as will enable it to retain a neat shape when arranged on a dish in mound shape. The most impor- tant point in cooking Spinach is to drain it perfectly dry the moment It Is taken from the flre. If allowed to cook too long, it loses its color. If it stands in the water it becomes tasteless. The following are the Cre- ole methods of serving Spinach. It is one of the cheapest of all dishes served among the Creoles, and a very good dish, too. Spinach, Flnln Boiled. fipinards au Naturel. % Peck of Fresh Young Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Always select young and tender fepinach. Carefully pick it over. and reject ■ all wilted leaves and coarse fibers and nerves. Cut oft the roots. Wash and drain it well In cold water, and press out all the water. It will take about halt a peck or four pints, to make a good ■dish, as it boils down. Put the spin- ach in a kettle, and add one cupful of water. Place on a moderate fire and let it simmer for ten minutes. As soon as it appears to wilt, take off the Sxe, for that is all the cooking that is needed. Then drain the spin- ach of all water through a colander, and then press through a very fine sieve, to drain off the remaining wa- ter from the vegetable. Chop the spinach very fine. Then put a ta- blespoonful of butter in a saucepan, •and add the spinach to it. Stir well. Add a few spoonfuls of water, just sufficient to thin, if a little thick, and let it heat thoroughly. Other- wise, if of the right consistency, no water need be added. Good judg- ment must here prevail. Season with salt and pepper to taste. At this point the spinach may be served in various ways, as Spinach a, la Cr6me, Spinach au Jus, Splnacfh with Hard-Boiled Eggs, Spinach a. la iMaltre d'Hotel, etc. The plain boiled 'spinach may be served with vinegar as a salad. (See recipe under Chap- ter on Salads.) Splnacli a la CrKme. £:plnards a. la Cr&me. % Pe?k of Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Powdered Sugar. 6 Croutons. A Cream Sauce. Prepare the spinach as above. When ready to take from the sauce- ban, have ready slices of buttered toast, or Crotitons fried in butter. Roll the Croutons in sugar before frying. ■ Heap the spinach in little mounds upon them, sprinkle lightly • with sugar, and pour over a Cream Sauce (see Cream Sauce), and serve hot. Spinach an Jus & la Bourgeolse. fipinards au Jus k la Bourgeoise. % Feck of Spinach. 2 Hard-Boiled or Poached Eggs. 1 Cup of Gravy or Consomme. Boil the spinach according to the above recipg. When ready to take from the saucepan, after adding the butter and seasonings, put it in a saucepan and pour over a cup of roast beef gravy or consommfi, let it cook for twenty minutes, and serve hot. 221 Spinach with Hard-Bolled Ksss. fipinards aux Oeufs Durs. % Peck o( Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. Boil the spinach and prepare to the point indicated in recipe for Spin- ach (Plain Boiled). Then take the spinach from the saucepan, and ar- range in a mound on a dish, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Splnnch & la Mattre d'Hotel. fipinards 3, la Maltre d'Hotel. % Peck of Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. A Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. Prepare the spinach as directed In recipe Plain Boiled Spinach. Pour over a Sauce a, la Maltre d'Hotel, cook a few minutes, and serve hot. Spinach ft la Cnlslniere. fipinards 3, la CulsinlSre. H Peck of Spinach. ^Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Cup of Milk. 6 Toasted Croutons. Prepare the spinach as above, hash fine, and put in a saucepan with a ta- blespoonfoil of butter. Season with salt and pepper, add.a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a cup of milk and a sgoon-' of •Welted butter, and serve with toasted dice Crofltons on the spinach. BEET TOPS, RADISH TOPS, TUR- NIP Tops, etc. Never throw away any beet, turnip, or radish tops. They may all be cooked in the same manner as spin- ach au Jus, or they may b^ cooked with salt meat, and make very good and healthy dishes. The humble Cre- ole families in New Orleans prepare turnip tops and beet tops in such a way that a king might not (j'S^ain what is commonly held as l^ltchen refuse. All these may be made Intp nice purges. (See recipe for making pu- rees.) SORREL. De rOseille. Sorrel is used for various pur- poses In the kitchen. It is made into soups and purSes, served as a salad, or cooked in exactly the same man- ner as in the recipe fOr cooking spin- ach. (See recipes Spinach.) PurSe of Sorrel. Purfie d'Oseille. In preparing Sorrel after this re- cipe, make a purge, to be served as a vegetable or as a soup. (See re- cipe.) A vegetable purge is of course of far denser consistency than a pu- rge intended for soup. Sorrell au Gras. Oseille au Gras. Prepare the sorrel in exactly the same manner as spinach, or "£pi- nlrds au Jus." (See recipe.) Reject all fibrous portions. After you have scalded It, it is important to drain thoroughly. Then chop and press through a colander. Garnish nicely with CroQtons fried in butter. Sorrel is very acid, and to those who do not like much acidity this may be modified by mingling with equal parts of spinach or lettuce. Sorrell au M.v.lg;re. Oseille au Maigre. Prepare exactly as above, only, in- stead of using broth or gravy, add milk and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. SaXTASH. Courge. 3 Young Squash. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cut the squash into quarters and pare and remove the seeds. Then cut into small squares of about an inch. Wash in cold water, and then put into a porcelain-lined or agate saucepan, and half cover w^ith water, for squash is a watery vegetable. Let it simmer gently for about twenty minutes or half an hour. Then drain through a colander, pressing gently. Mash the squash very fine after draining, and retlirn- to the'^saucepan. Add two ta- blespoonfuls of butter, and salt and pepper to taste, and stir until thor- oughly heated, and it begins to sim- mer gently. Do not cease stirring, or it will burn. Serve hot. This is the most delicate way of serving squash, and the' only one that the good taste of the Creoles will tolerate. Baked squash are often served, but stuffed squash and the like offend the good ethics of the Creole kitchen. TOMATOES. Des Tomates. Like the onion, tomatoes are among the indispensible adjuncts of good cooking, entering, as they do, so much into the good seasoning and delicate fiavoring of various dishes. They are also excellent in salads. (See Sal- ads.) Tomatoes, however, form very dainty dishes, when cooked, and among' these are the following: StcTTcd Tomatoes. Tomates SautSes. 12 Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. 1 Onion. Salt and Pepper to Taste. ^ Cup of Bread Crumbs. 1 Inch of Ham. Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. Scald the tomatoes, and let the wa- ter remain over them about five min- 222 utes. Then peel the tomatoes, slip- ping the skins off easily, and cut them* into small pieces. Put a table- spoonful of butter into a saucepan, and as it melts add the onion, which you will have chopped very fine. Let it brown, and add one inch of ham, chopped very fine. Then add the to- matoes, and let them brown, slowly adding in the meantime a half cup of dry bread crumbs. Let all sim- mer gently, and add "One sprig each of thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Stew gently for -an hour longer, and serve hot. Broiled Tomatoes. Tomates Grill6es, 6 Tomatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 lablespooQfal of Chopped Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Take six tomatoes and cut them in halves on the cross. Do ■ not peeU Put them on the broiler and broil on a slow flre till tender. Turn the broiler from one side to the other often, to prevent burning. In about ten minutes they will be done. Put on a hot dish; put a little melted but- ter, a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon on each, and serve hot Fried Tomatoes, Tomates Prites. 6 Nice, Ijarge, Firm Tomatoea. 1 Ege. % Gup of Bread Crumbs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Jiard. Slice the tomatoes very thin, and then dust with salt and pepper. Beat the egg very light. Dip the toma- toes first in this and then In the bread crumbs, and drop into the lard, , covering the bottom of the pan. When brown on one side, turn on the other. Turn carefully with the cake turner into a heated dish. Keep warm while you are frying the rest, and serve very hot. Tomatoes an Gratln. Tomates au Gratin. S Tomatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Gup of Grated Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Scald and skin the tomatoes. Then place a layer of them at the- bottom of a baking dish, cover with a layer of bread crumbs, spread very thick, and season with salt and pepper and dots of butter at Intervals. Continue in tliis way till the last layer is reached, finishing with a layer of bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot with butter, and put in an oven to bake for an hour and a quarter. Canned tomatoes will re- quire about half this time. Scalloped Tomatoes. Tomates en Coquilles. 6 Tomatoes. 1 Cup of Grated Bread CramtM, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Proceed exactly as above, only bake the tomatoes in layers in small cups or silver shells. Stnffed Tomatoes, Tomates Farcies. 6 Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of Wet, Bread, Squeezed Thoroughly, Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 1 Clove of Garlic (If desired.) 1 Onion. %, Inch of Ham. Wash the tomatoes, selecting fine, large, smooth ones for this purpose. Either cut the tomato in two, or else cut one slice from the stem end. Scoop out the inside of the tomato, and put it in a dish and save the skins. Take one onion and one quarter of an inch of ham and chop very fine Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and add the onion, letting it brown nicely. Then add the ham. Let It brown. Add the Insides of the tomatoes, and then add, almost instantly, a cup of bread that has been wet and squeezed. Beat all well together as It fries, and add salt and pepper to taste. Let it cook well, and then take off, and stuff the tomatoes, cut In halves or whole. The former is the daintier way. Sprinkle the tops with bread crumbs, and dot with butter. Place in the oven for fifteen or twenty minutes, till brown, and serve hot with filet of beef or chicken, etc. Stuffed Tomatoes ft la CrSole. Tomates Farcies a, la CrSole. U Found of the White Meat of a Chicken. 2 Inches of Ham. 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. t Onion, lUInced Fine. % Cup Bread Cnimbt. Thyme and Bay Leaf. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Chop the chicken meat very fine. Cut the tomatoes into halves, and scoop out the insides without break- ing the outer skins. Take the inside meat and chop fine. Put a table- spoonful of butter into the saucepan, and as it melts add the chopped on- ion, and let it brown. After a few minutes, add the ham and chicken, and let these brown. Then add the tomatoes, and, as they brown the bread crumbs. Add the minced herbs and a clove of garlic. If desired. (The garlic must be added before the to- matoes, if It is used.) Let all sim- mer gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a dash of Ca- yenne. When well cooked, remove from the fire, when about the con- sistency of thick starch. Let it cool slightly, and then stuff each tomato 22^ shfijl. Sprinkle bread crumbs gratecl on top, and dot with butter. Place in the oven for about half an hour, and serve as an entremet with chicken or veal. TomatU Salad. Tomates en Salade. See recipe under chapter on Sal- ads. Paric; of Tomatoes. Pur4e de Tomates. See recipe under chapter oh Soups. TURNIPS. Des Navets. Turnips are cheap in New Orleans, and many delightful dishes may be made with them, if properly pre- pared. The turnip tops also make good, substantial home dishes, that none should disdain. The Creoles, who have applied the art of cooking to the most humble even of the vege- table kingdom, have learned to so prepare turnip tops as to make them a welcome dish on the most exclusive tables. Turnips are largely used, like the tomato and onion, though not to such an extent, in seasoning food sub- stances. They are indispensible with the pot-au-feu, the bouillon, or the well-made consommg. Mashed Turnips. Purge de Navets. 6 Turnips. 2 TaMespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Xaate. Wash and pare the turnips, and cut them into quarters, and cover with boiling water and boil until very tender, which will be in about thirty to forty-five minutes, according to the tenderness of the turnips. If you boil them whole it will take an hour and a quarter. If you cut the turnips as soon as tender take out of the wa- ter and drain through a colander of all water. Then press them lightly, to squeeze all remaining water out, and hash well. Add a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and serve l^ot. Serve with roast meats or roast ducks. Turnips, may be mixed with equal quantities of potatoes, mashed and buttered. Plain Boiled Turnips. Navets Bouillis au Naturel. 6 Tomips. A. Dra-wn Hotter Sauce. Boil the turnips whole, selecting very tender ones. They will require about an hour of boiling. Always use hot water in putting on the tur- nips. Drain off water, when tender, and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce, pepper and salt. Serve with roast beef, mutton or roast duck. Creamed Turnips. Navets k la CrSme. 6 Turnips, A Cream Sauce, Cut large turnips in quarters for this dish. Small t>nes may be boiled whole. When tender, drain and put into a colander and press out all wa- ter. Then make a rich Cream Sauce (see recipe) and pour over the tur- nips. Serve with boiled leg of mut- ton, either by placing the turnips around the leg of mutton on the dish and pouring the sauce over, or sepa- rate, as a vegetable. Turlnps Baked With Mutton. Mouton ' Roti aux Navets. 6 Turnips. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Roast Mutton Drippings. Boil the turnips until nearly ten- der. Then drain in a colander. If -very large, cut in quarters; if small, let them remain uncut. Day them on the pan, around the roasting leg of mutton, and let them bake about an hour, basting frequently w^ith the drippings from the mutton. When done, place around the leg of mutton hs a garnish, and serve. Glazed Turnips. Navets Glac6s. ,6 Turnips of Uniform Size. 1 Tablespoonful ot Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt to Taste. Select fine, small and tender tur- nips of uniform size (top the heads and the stems, and remove the skins, , but not too closely, lest they should , break up when boiling. Then take a frying pan large enough for the turnips to lie in it, side by side. Put the butter in first, and when melted add the turnips. Then sprinkle with the sugar and water, and season with salt to taste. Set on the back of the stove, where they can simmer gently for an hour. When nearly done, and tender all through, add a tablespoon- . ful of flour, mixed in water, blended well. Then set in the oven, with a paper on top. Let them stand for about half an hour and use as a garnish for beef, veal, etc. The tur- piss will be nicely glazed, and will make the dish appear very beauti- ful. Turnips Fried in Butter. Nayets SautSs au Beurre. 6 Turnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Boil the turnips according to di- rections, and, when very tender, drain in a colander. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, and when it is hot, add the turnips. Season well with salt and pepper, and, when nice- ly browned, dish on a hot platter knd serve with roast ducks. 224 Boiled Turnip Tops A la Creole. Navets & la Creole. Vi Peck of Turnip Greens. I Tablespoonful ot Salt and a Found of Presb Fork or 1 Found of Salt Fork. Pepper to Taste. Wash the turnip tops, and put into a kettle of boiling water with a piece of fresh or salt pork. Let them boil slowly till tender, and then sea- son well with salt and pepper. When tender, take out and chop, but not too fine, or leave them Just as they are. Drain of all water, and serve as you would boiled cabbage, piling the turnip tops around the dish, and the salt meat or pork ia the center. Again, the Creoles boil the white turnips with the greens, cutting the former portions into quarters or semi- quarters, according to their size, and chopping the greens after cook- ing. Bat with pepper vinegar, as you would boiled cabbage. TRUFFLES. Des Truftes. The Truffle is a most expensive vegetable. It belongs to the family of Mushrooms, and is a subterranean production, of a fishy, fungous struc- ture and roundish figure. Its aroma Is particularly marked, and it is much esteemed by epicures, for, when mixed in proper proportions it adds a zest and flavor to all Sauces for Fish, Filets of Beef, Turkey, Chick- en, Game and Omelets that cannot be found in any other plant in the entire vegetable kingdom. The name "Truflle" Is supposed to be derived from the French "Truffe," or the Spanish "Trufa," signifying deceit or Imposition, the growth of the plant under ground seeming to accord with the name. Truffles come prepared in cans, be- ing put up in France, those of "Peri- gord" being the brand most in use. The Creoles use Trufiles mostly as a condiment for fish, meats, stuffings for poultry, game, etc. They are very expensive, costing as much as $3 a can, and a small can at that. In cooking filets, they are prepared simply "Truffge," or whole or cut in halves, or "a, la Perigueux," that is, the Truffles are cut or minced very fine. They are also served after the following majiner as entremets or hors d'oeuvres. Truffles in Spanish Style. Truffes a. I'Espagnole. 10 Truffles. 2 TaWeapoonfuls , of Salad Oil or Butter. 1 TabWspr— ful of Ulaced Parsley. 3 Flnfc.y Minced' Shallots. 3 Sprigs of Minced Parsley. % Glass ot White Wine. Sauce Espagnole. Slice the Truffles very fine, and place in a saucepan on a slow fire, with a tablespoonful of butter or two of oil, salt and pepper to taste and the minced parsley and shallots. Af- ter letting them smother for a few minutes, moisten well with the White Wine or Champagne and a Sauce Es- pagnole, using equal proportions of the wine and sauce. Quicken the fire slightly, and let them cook slowly till done. Skim off all grease, and serve hot with ragouts, etc. Truffles With CliampaKiie. Truffes au Vin de Champagne. . 6 Truffleo. 1 Glass of Champagne. Make a "Marinade," that is, a liq- uor with spices and vinegar; set to cook, and add a glass of champagne. Add the Truffles, and season again to taste. Let all cook for upwards ot half an hour. Then take the Truffles from the sauce. Let them cool, and serve on a folded napkin as an hors d'oeuvre. Truffles on Minced Toast. TrutEes en Croustades. 4 Truffles. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 8 Croutons Fried In Butter. Prepare the Truffles as in the "ic- cipe "a I'Espagnole," or simply "S, ,1a Pro3v«nQale," that Is, sltoe' them very fine, let them stew or sauter them in butter., and -Season well with salt and pepper- and the clove of a garlic minced very fine. When done, add the Juice of a lemon. Take some slices of bread, cut in fancy shapes, and fry in butter, or toast. Cover each piece with some of the Ragout of Truffles, and serve hot. VEGETABLE PEAR. Mirliton. The Vegetable Pear, or "Mirliton," as the Creoles have named this vege- table, belongs to the gourd family. It is known to botanists by the name of the "One-Seeded Cucumber." Like almost all the gourds, the plant is a vine, and is trained by the Creoles upon trellis, fences or arbors around their homes. It is not only a very ornamental vine, but an abundant bearer. The fruit, if properly pre- pared, as the Creoles know so well' how to prepare it, is a delightful dish, and is of a very much finer flavor than eggplants, squashes or pumpkins. It may be cooked In a half dozen ways, stuffed and stewed and fried, as the eggplant (see re- cipes), or stewed or baked, like the pumpkin, squash or cashaw. It is particularly flne when prepared like stewed cashaw. (See recipes.) It may also be made into fritters, like eggplants, or bakei cakes. In any 225 way that it is served it is delicious, and is a great favorite with the Cre- oles, especially the little children. me:i,ons. Des Melons. The New Orleans market cannot be excelled by any market in the world in the splendor and variety of the Melons found in the beginning of the summer, and till late in the fall, in Us great market stalls and fruit stalls, which Intersect every portion of the city. Especially is this the case with the Muskmelon, or Cante- loupe. No northern variety of melons can compare with our special vari- eties, and it is familiarly said that It requires Louisiana sun to bring the seed to perfection. Muskmelons and Watermelons are among our most common articles of food, and are within the reach of all classes, rich and poor, white and black, in season. The Creoles serve Melons both as a fruit and a dessert. MUSKMEJIiON. Cantaloup. Muskmelons, or Canteloupes, are cultivated extensively in the vicinity of New Orleans. The quality is fine, and the flavor delicious. They are served by tire Creoles' both as a, fruit and as a dessert — as a fruit at the beginning of breakfast, and as a dessert at the close of luncheon or dinner. The melon is always served very cold,. beirn«. kept tfn ice several hours before Serving, and when cut in halves ^nd cleansed of seed, crushed ice is placed within each half, and It is brought to the table and served. It is a most refreshing accompaniment to bi-eakfast, at which meal it is more generally served. WATERMEIiON. Melon d'Bau. The Watermelon is as great a fa- vorite among the Creoles for lunch- eon and dinner and supper desserts as the Muskmelon is a general breakfast and luncheon favorite. Indeed, at all hours during the summer, except in the early forenoon, a watermelon is considered in place as a most refresh- ing and welcome summer offering. Watermelons are kept on ice contin- ually by fruit dealers, and whenever a family chooses to have a "Melon on Ice," they have simply to send to the fruit stand within the radius of a square, and a splendid rosy-fruited melon is to be had, cold and delicious, and just ready to be cut. The Cre- oles as a rule, cut the melon In great round slices, so that each per- son may have a piece of "the heart" of the fruit; or it may be cut in lengthwise sljces, according to taste. The new-fangled practice of "scoop- ing the melon out with a spoon," and thus serving it, is distegarded by the Creoles. The only proper way to eat a melon and enjoy it is in the good old Creole style: Give every guest a fine round slice, glowing with "a heart of red," and thus will the fruit be enjoyed as it deserves. GARDEN HERBS. The old-time garden herbs are part of every well-regulated Creole kitch- en garden. Thyme, Sage, Rosemary, Mint, Sweet Marjoram, B&,sil, Laven- der, Anise, Carraway, Bene, Borage, Catnip, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Hore- nound, Pot Marigold, Pennyroyal, . Rue, Summer Savory, Tansy, Tarra- gon, Wormwood— all these thrive in. our gardens, and are used by the Creole housewives, some for culinary, ■ others for medicinal purposes. "The Bouquet Garni," or herb bouquet, has already been spoken of in the begin- ning of this book. To prepare such herbs as Sage, Thyme, Summer Sav- ory, Mint, Basil, or any of the sweet or m'eijiclnal herbs, for winter use, the Creole housewife gathers them from her own little garden patch when they are fresh in their season, or she procures them from the mar- ket^. After examiniins' them well, and discarding all poOr or sickly" looitlng sprigs, she w^ashes and shakes the§h-erbs. Then she ties them into sAiall bundles, and ties an old pifece of mosquito netting about them, to keep them from picking up any dust. The herbs are then hung, leaves downwards, in a warm, dry' place. In a few days they will be thoroughly dry and brittle. She then picks all the leaves off, and puts them in clean large-mouthed bottles, and corks and labels them. When needed for use, they, are rubbed very fine between the fingers and passed' through a sieve. The bottle is always kept corked, as exposure to the air will cause the herbs to lose strength and flavor. Herbs, such as Sweet Marjoram, Thyme, etc., are in daily use in our kitchens. In like manner the Creole housewife gathers the leaves of the Laurel, or Bay Leaf, and, after wash- ing and drying thoroughly, the leaves are bottled for use. But fresh herbs are nearly always to be found in our gardens. , , i CHAPTER XXX. RELISHES. Hors d'Oeuvres. Hors d'Oeuvres are relishes and may be served either hot or cold. Ordinarily, in daily household life, only the cold hors d'oeuvres, such as cress, celery, olives, radishes, etc., are served; they are set upon the tables as a decoration and passed as appetizers or relishes between the courses. At more formal affairs, hot hors d'Oeuvres are served, some of them being most elegant and re- cherche dishes. The hot hors d'oeu- vre does not preclude the cold at the same dining. The following form the list of the greater number of Cold Relishes. Hors d'Oeuvres Frolds. BadishTes, Celery, Olives, Cress, Lettuce, Roquette, Pickled Onions, Sliced Cucumbers, Sliced Tomatoes, Pickles, Mangoes, Melons, Ancho- vies, Sardines, Lyonnaise Sausage (Saucissons Lyonnaise), Bread and Butter, 1 Crackers, Anch,ovy Sand- wiches, Ham Sandwiches, Cheese Sandwiches, Bologna Sausage cut and sliced. Cold Ham, Pigs' Feet, a Craw- fish Bush (Buisson d'iicrevlsses), a Shrimp Bush (Buisson de Chevrettes), Boiled Crawfish, River Shrimp on Ice, Oysters on Half Shell, Raw Oys- ters, Sliced or Quartered Lemon, Salted Almonds, Salted Peanuts, Ca- napes of Caviare, Ham, Crab, etc. Among the more elegant Hot Relishes (Hors d'Oeuvres Chauds) may be mentioned the following: Petits pates au Jus (or small hot patties of meats, etc.), Boudins Noirs et Blancs (Boudin Sausages, white and black), Rissoles, Sausages with or without Truffles, Rognons a, la Brochette or Broiled Kidneys, Pigs' Feet, Bouchfies d'Huitres or Oyster Patties, Fried Brains (whether 9f mutton or veal). Calves' Feet, Oxtail . with Vinegar or Mustard Sauce. Almost all the above named Hors d'Oeuvres, whether hot or cold, have been already treated in the special departments, whether of vegetables or meats, to which they pertain. The subjoined recipes, however, have been especially prepared, the number and variety of our Creole Hors d'Oeuvres being such as to. warrant a special chapter on the subject. Anchovies in Oil. Anchoix a, I'Huile. 1 Pint Bottle of Boned AncbOTlea. 1 Eard-Bolled Egg. Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Take the contents of one pint bot- tle of boned Anchovies; drain them of all oil on a cloth and then ar- range nicely in a flat glass or china celery or radish dish. Take a hard- ■boiled egg, hash or slice daintily and decorate the dish with this. Sprinkle over some chopped parsley and serve. ' Sardines In Oil. Sardines 3. I'Huile. 1 Box of Sardines. 'Parsley to Garnish. Take the sardines carefully from the box and avoid breaking them. Decorate a dish nicely with sprigs of parsley or watercress and lay the sardines upon, it and serve. Coqnllles of Chicken, Creole Style. Coquilles de Volaille a, la CrSole. The Breast of a Roasted Chicken. 1 Ounce of Butter. 1 Truffle. 4 Mushrooms. 1 Dozen GodlTean Quenellei. VA Pint of 'Madeira Sauce. Grated Bread Crumbs. Cut the chicken into dice-shaped pieces; take an ounce of butter and place in a saucepan; add the chicken; chop four mushrooms and one truffle and add. Make a dozen small Godi- veau Quenelles (see recipe), and add to the mixture in the saucepan; pour over a half pint of Madeira Sauce (see recipe), stir well and let all. cook for five minutes. Take a half dozen table shells and fill with this mixture. Sprinkle grated fresh bread crumbs over the tops, spTerad a little melted butter over each and place the shells on a baking dish. Place in a very hot oven and let them brown to a beautiful golden color. This will requft-e about six minutes. Place a folded napkin on a dish, set the shells upon it and send to the table hot. Cromeaqnles with Truffles. Cromesquies aux TrufEes. 1 Boasted Chicken. 2 Trnfflei. 1 Pint of Veloute Sauce. 6 Pieces of Creplnette. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Nutme*. Roast the chicken, then bone and hash the meat. Make a pint of Vel- 227 out6 Sauce; chop the truffles very fine and place ..the chicken and the truffles and sauce in a saucepan to- gether. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add a dash of nut- meg. Cover and let all cook for ten minutes, occasionally, however, stir- ring to prevent burning'. Then take from the fire and let cool by pouring Into a flat dish. Spread out to about an inch in thickness and divide into six parts. Prepare six pieces of Cre- pinette and roll each one of the six parts of chicken Into the skin. Have ready a flour batter and dip each Cre- pinette into the batter and fry In boiling lard for five minutes, or un- til slightly brown. Drain thoroughly on a cloth, place a nice folded nap- kin on a dish; set the cromesqules upon it; decorate with fried parsley and serve hot. Cromesquies of game, veal or any meats may be made in the same man- ner, Creole Timbales. Timbales Creoles. 2 Raw Chicken Breasts. I Cup of Bread, Soaked in Hllk. % Tablespoontal of Bntter. The Yolks of Four Eggs. 3 Tablespoonfnls of Yeloate Sance. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 6 Plain Pancakes. 1 Gill Madeira Sauce. Cut up into medium-sized pieces two raw chicken breasts; pound them in a mortar with the same quantity of bread soaked in milk, a half ta- blespoonful of fresh butter and the yolks of four eggs; season with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne; mix all well together, and then mix In a bowl with three tablespoonfuls of Veloute Sauce. (See recipe.) But- ter the half dozen small timbale molds and line them with plain pan- cake. (See recipe). Fill the molds with the chicken mixture and cover with small round pieces of pancake. Steam them In a moderate oven for about ten minutes. Then take out of the oven and remove the timbales from the mold; garnish a hot dish nicely with sprigs of parsley, place the timbales upon it, pour over a gill of hot Madeira Sauce and send to the table hot Qneen of the Carnival Cronstades. Croustades a. la Reine du Carnaval. 6 Qnenelles (Chicken or Godivean). 2 Troffles. 1 Sweetbread. 6 Kidneys. 1 Pint of Allemande Sauce. % Glass of White Wine. % Pound of Foundation Paste. Cracker Dust for Filling. Prepare six Quenelles, either chick- en or Godiveau (see recipe) and place in a, saucepan with a half glass of white wine. Seasoti the wine first with a little salt and pepper. Add the mushrooms and the truffles all cut into dice-shaped pieces. Poach for six or eight minutes, and then take one pint of hot Allemande Sauce and put all this mixture into it. Let all stand on the hot stove for five minutes and in the meanwhile spread out a quarter of a pound of Foun- dation Paste (Pa,te-a.-FonPsr, see re- cipe) to the thickness of an eighth of an inch; line six tartlet molds with this and fill with cracker crumbs that have been pounded into a dust. Cover with a buttered paper and set in the oven and bake for ten minutes. Then take out, remove all the crack- er dust and fill the molds with tha hot mixture of chicken, etc. Set In the oven for three minutes, dress nicely on a hot dish and serve hot. Lamb STreetbreads In Cases, Biz de Veau d'Agneau en Petites Caisses. e Lamb Sweetbreads. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Glass of Madeira Wine. I Small Onion. 1 Sballot. S Mushroom!. % Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parslejr. 1 Sill of Sauce Espagnole. Clean and pare and blanch the sweetbreads. (See recipe.) Then set aside to cool. Lard nicely with very fine larding needles. Put two table- spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan land add the sweetbreads. Pour over one glass of Madeira Wine, cover well with the onion, shallot, mush- rooms, clove of garlic and parsley, all minced very fine. Cover with a piece of buttered paper and set in the oven for ten minutes or until they are a nice golden brown color. Then take out of the oven and lay the sweetbreads on a dish. Set the saucepan back on the stove and add a gill of Sauce Bspagnole (see re- cipe.) Let all cook for five minutes. Have ready six small boxes of but- tered paper; pour a little of the gra- vy in the bottom of each case, then place a sweetbread in each and set in a baking dish; set the dish in the open oven for five minutes; then ar- range a napkin nicely in a dish, set the cases of sweetbreads upon it and send to the table hot. Macaroni Croquettes. Croquettes de Macaroni. % Pound of Macaroni. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Tablespoonful of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 1 Tablespoonful of Cooked Smoked Tongue, Cut Very Fine. 1 Minced Truffle. 1 Egg. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Fresh Bread Crumbs. Boil the Macaroni. (See recipe.) Then drain well. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, add the 228 Macaroni, and sprinkle over the grat- ed cheese and the minced smolced tongue and truffle. Toss all together nicely and then spread out evenly. Then set aside to cool. When cool, cut the preparation into six equal parts and roll each in grated Par- mesan cheese, then in a well-beaten egg, and afterwards in freshly-grat- ed bread crumbs. Have ready a pan of boiling lard, fry the Croquettes in the lard for five minutes, then drain well, place on a dish on a folded nap- kin and serve hot. Royal Salpicon. Salpicon Royale. Sweetbreads. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 12 Mushrooms. 2 Truffles. 1 Pint of Sauce AUemande. Clean, pare and blanch the sweet- breads. Then cut into very small pieces and put them into a sauce- pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- ter; let them saut€ a moment and then add the mushrooms and truffles all cut very fine. Add a pint of Sauce AUemande (see recipe), and let the mixture cook on a slow fire for six or eight minutes, tossing gently all the while. Add a teaspoonful of butter, stir well and use for any gar- nishing desired. Salpicon, Hunters' Style. Salpicon a la Chasseur. The Breasts of 2 Fine Partridges. 1 TablespooDful of Butter. 12 Whole Peppers. 1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 1 Class of Good Sherry Wine. 6 Blanched Chicken Livers. 1 Carrot. % Onion. 1 Ounce of Cooked Beef Tongue. 2 Truffles. € Mushrooms. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Sguare Inch of Lean Ham. 1 Quart of Consomme or Broth. Cut the breasts of the Partridges Into dice-shaped pieces, and then put them into a saucepan with a table- spoonful of butter. Pour over a glass of good Sherry wine and set on a hot fire. Add the blanched chicken livers, the truffle cut into dice-shaped pieces and the mushrooms cut very fine. Have already, prepared a "Fu- met of Game," made by placing one carrot, one-halt of a small onion, one bay leaf, one square inch of ham, one sprig of thyme, and the carcass of the partridge Into a covered sauce- pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let these brown well and add a glass of Madeira Wine. Let it come to a boil, then moisten with one quart of broth or consommg, and salt and pep- per to taste; add twelve whole black peppers. Let all cook for three- quarters of an hour, until it is re- duced to a pint, and strain through a napkin. Add this to the salpicon and let all cook for five minutes long- er. Use as a garnish for any dish de- aired. Creole Salpicon. Salpicon a. la Crfiole. 2 Dozen Crawfish. 3 Tomatoes. 1 Dozen Mushrooms, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Pint of Boiling Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. 1 Herb Bouquet. 12 Whole Black Peppers. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan and add the flour; fetir constantly for about five min- utes; then moisten well with the milk, pouring it in gradually and then whisking. Add the grated nut- taeg, salt to taste, and the twelve whole peppers. Add a herb bouquet, minced fine, and let all cook for a quarter of an hour. Then rub well through a sieve; and put into a sauce- pan with the tomatoes, skinned and chopped fine, and the meat of the crawfish cut into dice-shaped pieces, and the minced mushrooms. Let all cook for five minutes and serve. Louisiana Salpicon. Salpicon Louisianaise. 50 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Mushrooms. 1 Truffle. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Grated Nutmeg. 1 Herb Biyuquet. 1 Glass of White Wlnt>. 3 Tomatoes. ' Clean aad' scale the Shrimp anci tioil according to" recipe. Then fol- low in all particulars the recipe giv- en above for Salpicon Creole, with the exception that White Wine is used instead of milk, and a truffle Is added to the minced vegetables. Send to the table hot. Salpicon fl la Montglas. Salpicon a. la Montglas. The Breasts of 2 Small Chickens, or Any Game. 1 Ounce of Lean Ham. 1 Gill of Madeira Sauce. 1 Gill of Tomato Sauce. 6 Mushrooms. 1 Truffle. Mince the breasts of the chicken or game very fine, mince the ham 'truffles aftd mushrooms, and put all into a saucepan with, a gill of Ma- deira Sauce and one gill of Toma- to Sauce. Let all cook for five min- utes, and then use as a garnish. Salpicon, Financier Style. Salpicon a, la Financifere. The Legs and Breasts of a Chicken. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Dozen Small Godlyeau Quenelles. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Truffle. S Mushrooms. 1 Pint of Madeira Sauce. Cut the chicken into dice-shaped pieces, and put into a saucepan with the butter; add the square inch of ham, the truffles and mushrooms, all , minced fine; and then add twelve 229 small Godiveau Quenelles. (See re- cipe.) ■ Add a pint of Madeira Sauce (see recipe) ; set on the stove, and let all cook for five or eight min- utes, and the Salpicon is ready to be served as a garnish for any dish desired. R«ed Bird Fatties. pates d'Ortolans. 1 Dozen Reed Birds. 1 Salpicon Bo7al. Vi Pound ol Foundation Paste. Pick and clean the birds and sea^ son well; then bind each with a thin strip of bacon. Make a Foundation Paste (Pat6-a,-Foncer) and line six patty molds with this. Put in a moderate oven and bake for fifteen minutes; then empty them and let them dry well in the open oven for five minutes. Let them cool. Then fill the bottom of each mold with a tablespoonful of Salpicon Royal (see recipe), and place in each mold two of the nicely prepared birds. Lay the patties on a baking dish or roasting pan and set in the oven, whose heat must be moderate, and let them roast for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then remove from the oven, moisten each patty with a ta- blespoonful of hot Madeira Sauce, and send to the table hot. Tamales. Des Tamales. 1 Tender Young CliiclseQ. 1 Cup of Boiled Irish Potatoes. 1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leal. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Spoon of Butter. 1 Cup of Cracker Crumbs. Salt and Pepper, to Taste. A Good Dash of Cayenne. Boil a young chicken until the meat can be picked off the bones. _ Then chop up very fine. Mince the <>nion, clove of garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and parsley, very flne. Put the onion and butter' into a saucepran and let brown slightly; and add the minced' garlic, thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Add the chicken immedi- (ately and one cup of mashed pota- toes and grated cracker crumbs. Stir well, and season to taste with salt and Chili pepper. Add a good dash of Cayenne, for this, is a very hot dish. Mix all well by stirring and let cook for five minutes. Have ready a pot of boiling water and . about a dozen nice, clean corn-shuck leaves. Cut the leaves into nice oblong shapes, and divide the chicken mix- ture into equal parts. Roll each of these parts into a Qorn leaf and tie, and immerse in- boiling water for five minutes. Then drain off the wa- ter, arrange the husks on a dish and send to the table hot, serving Just before the meal begins as an appe- tizer. This is a famous Mexican* Creole Hors-d'Oeuvre. Tamales are also eaten hot for supper or luncheon. Pickled Tunny. Thon Marine. In New Orleans we only get the tunny in its pickled or other pre- pared states. Take a radish or flat celery dish; decorate nicely with "fresh parsley sprigs, or cress, or as- paragus tips; lay the tunny upon it, and serve as a cold Hors d'Oeuvre. I liyonnalse Snnsage. Saucissons de Lyonnaise. 12 Thin Slices of Lyonnaise Sausage. Parsley^ Sprigs' to Garnish. Cut from a medium-sized Lyonnaise sausage twelve nice and very thin slices; decorate a dish nicely with parsley leaves on the outer edges. Lay the saucisson de Lyons in the center and serve as a cold hors d'oeuvre. CHAPTER XXXI. SWEET EXTRBMETS. Des Entremets SucrSs. Sweet entries and entremets are ■^not the least part of the real Cre- ole cuisine. The ancient French colonists brought the custom of serv- ing sweet entremets and entrfis, such as Belgnets, Compotes, Soufll6s, Ge- 16es, etc., from the old mother country ■ to Louisiana. The Creoles appHied these to the various delightful and refreshing fruits which abound In Louisiana. When the little Creole children, taking a peep into the kitchen, as children will do in every clime, saw that the fat and cheery ■old negro cook was going to make 'Apple Fritters, Orange Fritters, or cook fried bananas for dinner, there ■was always some very endearing 'term applied to the old Creole cui- 'siniSre, and she never failed to re- spond in the wholesome and practi- cal way that ' the Creole cooks of those days did, by handing a beauti- 230 ful golden beignet, piled with snowy sugar, to the expectant little ones. The custom of serving these sweet entremets spread from 'New Orleans to other portions of the United States, till now no fastidious chef would think of keeping a fashionable hotel or restaurant without including some of these in the daily bill of fare. The following are the ancient and most accepted forms of preparing sweet entrfies and entremets a. la Creole. All compotes of fruits may be served either as entremets or des- serts. FRITTBRS. Des Beignets. The most important rule to be ob- served in making fritters, whether of fruit or plain, is to have the bat- ter of the proper consistency. This Is particularly important in making fruit fritters. "La Pates k Beignets," as the Creoles call the batter, must be of sufficient consistency to en- velop in one single Immersion the fruit or other substance with which It is intended to make the fritters. Fritter Batter ft la CrSoIe. pate a Beignets a la CrSole. 1 Cup Flour. 2 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls Brandy. 14 Teaspoonful of Salt. Cold Water. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, Melted. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add the flour, beating very light. Now add the melted butter and the brandy, and thin with water to the consistency of a very thick starch. Add the whites- of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and then dip the fruit Into this, immersing well at one dip- ping. Lift out with a large cooking spoon, drop into the boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. The batter must be thick enough to coat the fruit all around in one immer- sion, yet it must not be so thick as to be over-heavily coated or tough. Many of the Creoles substitute, according to the fruit which they intend to make into fritters. White Wine or Sherry or lemon juice for the brandy. A fruit fritter must al- ways be sprinkled nicely and lightly with powdered sugar, and, if served as an entremet, it must be hot. Fruit fritters often take the place of des- serts among the poorer Creole fam- ilies. French Fritter Batter. pate a Beignets a la Frangaise. 1 Cup of Sifted Flour. % Cup of Cold Water. 2 Egga. H Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Best Olive Oil. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Brandy or Orange Flower Water. hi Teaspoonful of Salt. Beat the whites well Into a stiff froth. Beat the yolks of the eggs into the flour until very light, and add the sugar, blending well. Add brandy or orange flower water, and beat light, and then add the water and oil, making the batter of the consistency of a very thick starch. Now add the whites of the egg, beat well, and proceed to drop in the fruit, as in above recipe. Plain Fritters. Beinnets de Pate. 1 Pint of Flour. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. i Eggs, Tbe Zest of Half a Lemon. Vi Cap of Sugar. E'lavorlng to Taste. ^ Teaspoonful of Salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the "whites separate. Sift the baking powder into the flour, and add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Beat well, and add the milk, and flavor- ing of orange, vanilla or brandy to taste. (The flavoring may be omit- ted altogether.) Add the zest of a lemon, grated very fine, and salt in quantity given above. Lastly, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and have the batter of such consist- ency that it will pour from the spoon. Drop it in the boiling lard by large kitchen spoonfuls, and let It fry to a golden yellow. (See Gen- eral Directions for Frying.) Lift out with a skimmer, and drain and placs on a heated dish, and sprinkle freely With powdered white sugar, and serve hot. In arranging them in the dish, make the fritters rise into a pretty pyramid and sprinkle with the su- gar. Never pierce fritters with a fork, as it will cause the steam to evaporate and make the fritters heavy. A fritter that is well made should be light and puffy. Plain Fritter Batter for Meats, Poiil> ' try, etc. pate a Beignets pour les Viandes, les Volailles, etc. 1 Cup Flour. 1 Cup of Water. 2 Eggs. hi Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the flour together, and add the melted butter and the salt. Then add the water, and beat well, and finally add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Some add a half teaspoon- ful of baking powder. This is ac- cording to taste. If the eggs are "well beaten, there will be no need for the baking powder. This batter is used in making pork, kidney or chicken fritters, or frit- ters of left-over meats, and also for all meats or fish which must be rolled In batter. 231 Apple Fritters. Beignets de Pommes. 3 Fresh Apples. 1 Gin of Brandy or Ram (if desired). Grated Feel of ^ Lemon. 'Powdered Sugar. Peel and core the apples, which will be all the nicer if they are a lit- tle tart. Take out the seeds and core. Cut them into slices, more or less thick or thin, according to taste. The thin slices are recom- mended. Soak them in brandy or good whisky, or rum, for the space o£ two hours, sprinkling with the grated zest of a lemon and sugar, according to judgment. Two table- spoonfuls of sugar should be suf- ficient for the zest or rind of half a lemon. Make a batter a, la Crgole and have ready a deep saucepan of boiling lard. Drain the apples. , Dip the slices, one at a time, into the batter, lift out with a large kitchen spoon, drop into ttue balling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Then lift out with a skimmer, and set on brown paper, in the mouth of the oven, and drain. Sift powdered white sugar over them, and. serve hot, pil- ing high in pyramidal shape, and sprinkling again with powdered white sugar. Serve as an entremet or as a dessert. The liquor may be omitted, and the apples simply cut Into very thin slices; then proceed with the dropping in batter and fry- ing. Apricot Fritters. Beignets d'Abricots. 6 Fresh or a Half Can of Apricots. 1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. Grated Lemon Peel. If the apricots are fresh, peel and stone them, and cut into halves. Then sprinkle them with the grated zest of a lemon and sugar, and pour over them suflBoient Madeira Wine to thoroughly saturate. Cover and set aside for two hours. Then drain off the liquor. Make a Fruit Fritter Batter a, la Crgole, and have ready a saucepan filled deep with boiling lard. Dip the apricots, one by one, Into the batter, and drop from the spoon into the lard, and let them fry to a golden brown. In serving, pro- ceed in exactly the same manner as In the directions given for Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Banana Fritters. Beignets de Bananes. 3 Bananas. Fritter Batter a la Creole. Make a Fritter Batter a, la Creole. Peel the bananas and then cut them In halves. Slice them incely, accord- ing to length. Dip in the fritter batter, and proceed to cook and serve as In the recipe for Apple Fritters. The bananas may also be cut into round slices. In this case, two or three slices at a time must be put in each fritter. The method of cut- ting by lengths is recommended. Banana Fritters with Cognac or Rnm. Beignets de Bananes au Cognac ou au Rhum. 3 Bananas. Fritter Batter a la Creole. Fritter Batter a la Creole. If "Beignets de Bananes au Co- gnac" or "au Rhum" are desjred, slice the banana and sprinkle with sugar, and cover with sufllcient Co- gnac or Rum to saturate well. Set them aside for half an hour, then drain, and proceed as in Apple Frit- ters. Brioche Fritters. Beignets de Brioches. 3 Small Brioches. 1 Tablespoonful of Essence of Vanilla. Lemon or Orange Flower Water. Creole Fritter Batter. Powdered White Sugar. Cut the Brioche (see recipe under chapter on Breads) into slices, more or less tliin, and soak them in sweet- ened milk, to which you have added the essence of orange flower water, vanilla or lemon. Drop them into a light fritter batter, or simply drop them into boiling lard, fry to a gold- en yellow, sprinkle with white su- gar, and serve. Cherry Fritters, Beignets de Cerises. 1 Pint of Fine Cherries. 1 Egg. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Madeira or Malaga Wine, 1 Tablespoonful of Sugar. The Zest of a Lemon. ' Prepare the cherries by taking out ^the, stones. Make them into a thick marmalade, addipg a tablespoonful of Madeira or Malaga Wine. Soak nice slices of bread in milk and egg, seasoned well with a tablespoonful tof sugar and the grated zest of a lemon. Take the slices, when well- soaked, and spread the marmalade well over them, making it adhere very thickly and closely Into the mesh- es of the bread. Then fry in boiling lard, sprinkle nicely with powdered sugar, and serve hot. Or mix the cherries in Creole Fritter iBatter, drop by spoonfuls into the boiling lard, fry to a golden brow^n, drain in the oven, and sprinkle with pow- dered white sugar and serve hot. Com Fritters. Beignets de Farine de Mais. 1 Pint of Corn Meal. 1 Pint of Boiling Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 3 Eggs. Vi Cup of Sugar. Flavoring to Taste. Vi Spoonful of Salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the cornmeal together, and add the melt- 232 ed butter and the milk, stirring and beating well. Add the salt and any- flavoring extract preferred, and, last- ly, the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Fry in boiling lard, dropping in the lard by spoonfuls. By omitting the sugar you will have nice corn cakes to eat with butter. In this case do not use the same quantity of lard, but bake on a grid- dle. Elderflower Fritters. Beignets a. la Fleur de Sureau. 1 Cup of Tender White Elder Flowers. 1 Cup of Sugar. White of 2 Eggs. Creole Fritter Batter. Select a sufficient quantity of beau- tiful, tender white flowers, and soak them in the whites of two eggs, beat- en to a snowy froth, and well blend- ed with white sugar. Dip them by spoonfuls into the fritter batter, and fry according to directions. This is an old time Creole recipe, almost lost in our day. Pig Fritters. Beignets de Figues. 1 Pint of Fresh Figs. % Cup of Sugar. Creole Fritter Batter. Pare the figs, taking off every par- ticle of the skin. Then cut up nicely, sprinkle with sugar and let them stand for half r.n hour. Then add the Juice to fritter batter and pro- ceed as in Apple Fritters. (See re- cipe.) Fritters Souffle ft la Vanllle. Beignets Souffle a, la Vanille. 8 Ounces of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. H Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Sugar. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. The White of 1 Egg. 1 Spoonful of Whipped Cream. 1 Vanilla Bean, Powdered White Sugar. Put the milk into a a saucepan and infuse the vanilla bean, and let the milk reduce to one-half. Then remove the bean, and add a table- spoonful of butter, and, when it comes to a good boil, add the flour, well sifted; stir briskly till a stiff paste Is formed that will not adhere to the saucepan. Then take off the fire and add an ounce of powdered white sugar that has been beaten well with the yolks of two eggs. Have ready the white of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, and mix a spoonful of whipped cream with this, and add to the paste. Mix well, and then roll the paste out on a flour board that has been slightly sprink- led with flour, and sprinkle lightly on top with the flour. Cut into small cakes, drop into very hot lard, and let them cook to a golden brown. Then arrange nicely on a dish, sift powdered sugar over them, and send to the table hot. Lemon Fritters. Beignets de Citron. 1 Pint of Creole Fritter Batter. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 2-3 Cup of Sugar. Make a plain Creole batter for fruit fritters, and add the juice of a lemon, and sugar to taste, and proceed as directed in cooking and serving Apple Fritters. Orange Fritters. Beignets d'Oranges. 2 Large Louisiana Oranges. Creole Fritter Batter. Pare the oranges, taking off every particle of the white inner skin. Then slice nicely, and take out the seeds. 'Sprinkle with sugar, and let them stand for an hour. Then add the juice to the fritter batter, and pro- ceed as in Apple Fritters. Or, bet- ter still, place the oranges thus sliced over a slow fire, add a little water and several tablespoonfuls of sugar, and let them cook till you have a light marmalade. Take it off, let it cool, cover the slices of orange well with the jellied Juice, dip in the batter, and proceed as di- rected in recipe for Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Peach Fritters. Beignets de PSches. 6 Fresh or Canned Peaches (14 Can.) Madeira Wine. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. Grated Lemon Feel. If the peaches are fresh, peel and stone them, and cut in halves. Then sprinkle them with the grated zest of a lemon and sugar, and pour over them sufflcielit Madeira Wine for them to be saturated. Cover and set aside for two' hours. Then drain off the liquor. Make a Fruit Fritter Bat- ter a, la Creole, and have ready a saucepan filled deep with boiling lard. Dip the peaches, one by one, into the batter, and drop from the spoon into the lard, and let them fry to a golden brown. Then proceed in exactly the same manner of serving as in the directions given for Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Pear Fritters. Beignets de Poires. 3 Fresh Pears or 4 Canned Pears. Brandy or Hum (If desired). Grated Lemon Peel. Powdered Sugar. Peel and core the pears, which will be all the nicer if they are a lit- tle tart. Take out the seeds and core. Cut them into slices, more or less thick or thin, according to taste. The thin slices are recommended. 233 Soak them in brandy or good whisky or rum for the space of two hours, sprinkling with the zest of a lemon and sugar, according to judgment. Two tablespoonfuls of sugar ' should be sufficient. Make a batter a la Cre- ole, and have ready a deep saucepan of iDoUing lard. Drain the pears. Dip the slices, one at a time, into the bat- ter; lift out with a large kitchen spoon, drop into the boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Then lift out with a skimmer, and set on brown paper, in the mouth of the oven, and drain. Sift powdered white sugar over them, and serve hot, piling high in pyramidal shape, and sprinkling again with powdered white sugar. Serve as an entremet or as a dessert. The liquor may be omitted, and the pears -simply cut into very thin slices; then proceed, dropping In batter and frying. Serve as directed above. Pineapple Fritters, Beignets d' Ananas. % a Pineapple. Fritter Batter. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Gill White Wine. Slice the pineapple, and cut the slices in halves. Sprinkle with sugar and White Wine, and let them soak for an hour. Then proceed as in Ap- ple Fritters. Or, simply sprinkle with sugar, let them stand one hour, add the juice to the fritter batter, and proceed as above. Pineapple cream Fritters. Beignets d'Ananas a. la CrSme. % a Pineapple. % Oup of Sugar, 1 Gill of White Wine. Cream Puff Paste. For these fritters it is necessary to make a Cream Paste. (See re- cipe.) Prepare the pineapple as in the above recipe; then dip in the Cream Puff Paste and proceed as in Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Qtieen Fritters. Beignets a. la Reine. 1 Cup of Cream Puff Filling. A Cream Puff Batter. Vi Cup of Grated Almonds. 1 Glass of Sherry Wine. Cold Sherry Wine Sauce or French Sauce. Prepare a Cream Puff Baitter and a Cream Puff Filling. (See recipe.) If the flavor of almonds is desired, add a few finely-grated almonds that have been steeped in Sherry Wine. Have ready the frying pan, with boiling lard. Koll the cream batter into small balls, and fry till they swell to the size of an egg. Skim out with a skimmer, and drain, and. When cold, split one side with a very sharp knife, and All with the filling; close, and continue till all are filled. Serve cold with Sherry Wine Sauce or Peach Sauce, Rice Fritters. Beignets de Riz. 1 Cup of Cold Rice. 1 TablespoontuI of Butter. Yolks of 2 EggB.' 1 Tablespoonful of Orange or Lemon Essence. A Pinch of Cinnamon. Take one cup of cold rice, mash it well, and then pass' through a sieve. Season with the orange essence or lemon, a pinch of cinnamon, and a tablespoonful of butter. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs. Then make the rice into small boulettes or balls, roll in a beaten egg, fry to a golden brown, sprinkle with white sugar and serve. Sago Croquettes. Croquettes de Sagou. Eyual Parts of Sago Marmalade and Rice Croquettes. Creole Fritter Batter. Port Wine Sauce. Prepare Croquettes of Rice (see re- cipe), adding equal parts of Sago Marmalade. Dip j in fritter batter, and fry to a golden brown, and serve with Port Wine Sauce. Strawberry Fritters. Beignets de Fraises. 1 Pint of Fine Large Strawberries. 2 Tablespoonfuls of White Wine. Grated Zest of ^ Lemon. For this purpose have fine, large strawberries. Make a Fritter Batter a, la Creole, only just before adding the whites of the eggs add the grated zest of half a lemon and two table- spoonfuls of White Wine. The bat- ter must be of the consistency of thick cream. Stem the strawberries, and drop them into the batter. Pro- ceed to fry as in recipe given for Apple Fritters (see recipe), allowing two or three strawberries to each fritter. Or make a marmalade of the strawberries, keeping them whole and proceed as in Orange Fritters. (See recipe.) Surprise Fritters. Beignets en Surprise. 6 Nice, Small Ripe Apples. 1 Glass of Brandy. The Zest of 1 Lemon. The White of 1 Egg. Vi Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. '/i Teaspoon of Ground Allspice. Take nice, small, ripe apples, and peel. them. Cut off about an inch at the top end, and then scoop out the interior, leaving the apple frame whole. Take out all the seeds and cores from these cuttings, and mince them very fine. Then put them into a dish and put also the apple frames, and cover them with brandy. Sprinkle well with the grated zest of a lemon and ground cinnamon and allspice, and add to the minced 234 portion of the apples a few apricots, well minced. After an hour, take the frames out of the marinade. Then drain the apple stuffing- of the brandy and add to it the white of an egg, well beaten to a stiff froth. Mix this well, and then fill the interiors of the apple frames with it. Cover with the pieces of apple that were taken from the tops, and which must be immersed in the marinade, like the frames, covering this opening well. Take the fritter batter, and immerse each piece gently, just enough for the batter to cover, and place in a frying pan of boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Place on a dish, sprinkle well with powdered sugar, and serve hot. Or the apples may be simply placed in the oven, sprinkled with sugar, a little wa- ter added, and let them bake till a beautiful golden brown. This is an excellent old-fashioned Qreole re- cipe. S-n-eet Omelet Fritters, Beignets d'Omelette au Sucre. A Plain Omelet. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Brandy. Creole Fritter Batter. Powdered White Sugar. Make an omelet (see recipe), and add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a tablespoonful of good brandy. Cook It nicely and very soft, and then cut it into small slices. Plunge these in- to the fritter batter, let them fry to a golden brown, and then drain in the mouth of the oven on brown pepper. Place in a tieated dish, sprinkle well with fine white sugar, and serve hot. Steered Apples. Compote de Pommes. 6 Apples, Large and Firm. Sugar to Taste. The Zest of Half an Orange. 1 Blade Mace, 1 Stick Ground Ciniiamon. i Ground Allspice. Pare the apples and out into quar- ters or semi-quarters, removing the cores and seeds. Add half a cup of water. Put them into an agate or a porcelain-lined saucepan; and strew generously with sugar. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Then add the zest of half an orange, grat- ed, and the ground spices. Let all simmer gently till they form a rich tender compote, that is, until not the least semblance remains of being uncooked. This compote may be served hot during the meal, or it may be used as a dessert, with cream or milk. Apples may be stewed whole in the same manner, only remember to ex- tract the core with a fine knife. Baked Apples. Pommes Roties. 6 Fine Apples. 6 Spoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Cupful of Water. Cut the blossom end of the apple, and wash, but do not peel. Set them in a baking pan, heap a spoonful of sugar over each in the little place scooped out at the blossom end, and pour a cupful of water In the bottom of the pan; Set in the ovetl, and bake till very tender. Place in a Hish, pour Over the syrup, and serve either hot or cold. They are much nicer served cold, with a glass of milk. ' They are then used as a des- feert. Fried Apples. Pommes Frites. 3 Fine Apples. Boiling Lard. % Cup of White Powdered Sugar. Pare the apples and cut into round 'slices. Have ready a pan of boiling lard, a.»d fry to. a, delicate golden brcwn. Place in a .colander, . heated, and in which you: have placed a piece of brown paper. Drain in the mouth of the oven. Place in a dish, and sprinkle with sugar, and serve hot with roast meat, roast pork, etc. Apple Charlotte. Charlotte de Pommes. 6 Large Apples. 6 Apricots. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Cup of Sugar, or Sugar to Taste. Pare the apples and then cut them into slices, taking out the seeds and core.' Then put them in a saucepan with three large tablespoonfuls of butter. Add a little water to stew gently, and add the apricots, if you have them. In this case use four tablespoonfuls of butter and ground cinnamon, and allspice to taste. Let all cook to a nice marmalade. Then take off and add a quarter of a grat- ed nutmeg. Then cut six slices of bread, and butter well. Butter a pan and garnish it around the bottom and around with the slices of bread, which must be very thin. Then fill with the apples, and cover on top with the bread. Dot with butter and sprinkle with sugar, and put in an oven and bake to a golden brown. When done, carefully loosen the edges and turn Into a dish. Serve tt hot, with sugar and cream, or with a Custard Sauce, flavored with good brandy. (See recipe.) Cherry Charlotte. Charlotte de Cerises. 1 Pound Cherries. 1 Pound White Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. The Soft of Bread. Seed the cherries, and butter the bottom of a pudding dish. Cover the 235 bottom with a. layer of the bread crumbs which must be soft. Then add a layer of the cherries, which have been cooked like the apples, into a inarmalade. Sprinkle with sugar, and add another layer of cher- ries, and then a layer of bread crumbs, alternating till the dish is filled, letting the last layer be of crumbs, which you will dot with bits of butter. Put in an oven and bake for an hour. Serve cold with cream. Carrnnt Charlotte. Charlotte de Groseilles. 1 Pound of Currants. 1 Pound of Wliite Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. The Soft of Bread. Proceed exactly as for Cherry Charlotte, making a marmalade of the currants, and using the same proportion as above. RaspbeTTT or Blackberry Charlotte. Charlotte de Bramboises ou de MOres. 1 Pound of Raspberries or Blackberries. 1 Pound of White Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. The Soft of Bread. Stew the berries, making a marma- lade, and proceed exactly as in the recipe for Cherry Charlotte. Fruit Toasts "With Cherries, Apri- cots or Raspberries. Crofltes de Fruites aux Cerises aux Abricots ou aux Framboises. 6 Slices of French Toast. 1 Cup of Fruit Marmalade. Cream to Serve. Prepare thin slices of very dry French toast, and butter generously. Take a dish, and lay on each slice of toast generous allotments of the fruits you wish to serve. The fruit must be made into a marmalade. Pour all remains of syrup over the toast, and serve with cream. Fried Bananas. Bananas Frites. 4 Bataanas. Boiling Lard. White Powdered Sugar. Peel the bananas, and cut them in two, lengthwise. Then slice length- wise about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Have ready a pan of boiling lard. Lay the bananas in it, and fry brown, first on one side and then on the other, sifting with a little powdered sugar. When done, skim out of the pan, place neatly in a dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar again, and serve hot, as an entrfie. This is a celebrated and cheap Creole dish, and is seen on the tables of all classes. The banana stalls in the French market are famous, and at every corner or so, here and there throughout the city, there are fruit stalls, where the banana is always to be found in a perfect state, and very fresh and inviting. Bananas are also served in their natural state, as a fruit dessert SteTved Peaches. Compote de Peches. 10 Medium-Sized Peaches. 1 Pint of Cold Water. % Pound of Granulated Sugar. 1 GUI of Klrsch or BntHdy, if desired. Peel the peaches and out them into quarters, carefully removing the stones. Put them into a saucepan, with a pint of cold water and a half pound of granulated sugar; set on the stove, and, when they begin to boil, skim well. Then let them cook for six minutes longer, stirring slow- ly; avoid mashing the peaches. Re- move from the fire and add, if de- sired, a gill of Kirsqh or Brandy; tnix well and pour the peaches into a dessert dish to cool. Serve cold, either plain or ivith cream. The peaches may be boiled whole. Orange Salad. Salade d'Oranges. 6 Fine Louisiana Oranses. 3-4 Pound of Powdered Sugar. 1 Glass of Bum or Brandy. Peel the oranges whole, removing the peel entirely down to the tips of the stem end. Cut in slices, and cut out the seeds. Pile the oranges in a neat heap in a dish. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Boil some sugar to a syrup, using about half a pound to half a pound of oranges. Add a glass of rum or brandy, and, when cold, pour over the oranges and serve. Sweet Omelet Gntremets. Entremets d'Omelettes au Sucre. Rum Omelet, Omelette Soufflg, Ome- let aux Confitures, etc., are also served as Sweet Entremets These were specially treated under the chapter on "Eggs." (See recipes.) Wine and l/lquor Sntremets. Entremets au Vin et aux Liqueurs. Roman Punch, Punch a, la Cardi- nale, Sorbet k la Royale, and other fancy concoctions of ices or sherbets and liqueurs, are also served as en- tremets. Indeed, no elegant feast is considered complete without a Punch a, la Romaine, Ponche k la Car- dinale, or a Sorbet a. la Royale, etc. (See recipe.) DOUGHNUTS. Croxignolles. % Cup Sugar. ] Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cake of Compressed Yeast. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Flour In Sufficient Quantity to Make a Dougb. Scald the milk, and then add the butter, and let it stand and cool. 236 When it has cooled, add the yeast and the sugar, and beat in the flour gradually. Beat well, and then cov- er, and set the mixture in a warm place over night. But he careful to have the warmth only moderate. In the morning beat the eggs till very light, and stir them into the butter. Then add more flour, sufiicient to make a dough, which must be soft. Knead this dough lightly, and stand it away. to rise. When it has risen well, . take one-half of the dough and roll it on the biscuit board, and then cut into doughnuts, using a large cake or biscuit cutter. Then take a small cutter and make a small hole in the center of each doughnut. They may also be cut into square shape, and slashed gently with the cutter or knife. Spread a clean towel over the table, and dust it lightly with flour, and let the dough- nuts stand upon it for half an hour, being well covered, either with a tow- el or some other cover. Let the frying kettle then be ready, with boiling fat or lard. It must be so deep that the doughnuts can swim in it. Put the doughnuts into the boil- ing lard, and let them fry to a gold- en brown. Do not stick the dough- nut through with a fork, or it will fall im,mediately. When a beautiful dark golden brown, drain out of the pan with a skimmer, place on a hot dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. Tou will have the true Creole "G-poxignoUe." PAXCAKBS. Crfipes. 8 Eggg. 3-4 Pound of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. Vi Teaspoonful of Salt. Many there are in New Orleans to- day who remember the delightful old- time crepe parties that the belles and beaux used to give. The word would go from mouth to mouth that some great, cheery kitchen in the rue Es- plana4e, the rue Royale or the rue Rampart would be at the disposal of the young folks for the evening for a "crgpe" party, and thither the young gallants and numbers of "Ma Belle Creole" would gather, and the dex- terity with which a young lady could toss a "crepe," was often the open sesame to some young man's heart. The great secret in tossing a "crSpe" was to do it with accuracy and cele- rity, and so neatly that' it would settle down- in its place in the fry- ing pan just as though it had not been touched, with no rough edges around, and as smooth and round as a young globe. The old Creole dar- ky cooks prided themselves on the way that they could toss a "orSpe," and the great secret that they had mastered in making them as thin as possible, and exceedingly tender. As the "crepgs" were tossed by the girls, they .were caught by the young ipen and piled in a hot plate. Then they were served hot, with butter, and molasses, and were each spread with sugar and cinnamon and butter mixed and rolled. There was as much art in rolling the "crepes" as in serving them. But more generally they, were simply but- tered and rolled In our unexcelled Louisiana molasses, or "La Cuite," a deposit of sugar which comes from the molasses. These innocent diversions of long ago, like the old-time molasses can- dy pullings, or "soirees de candl tire," and the quaint old-time "eau sucr6" parties have passed out of the life of the old French quarter. They are among the most gentle memo- ries of those ancient days. "Crepes" are made as follows, the quantity of iijgredients given above being sufficient for six persons: Beat the yolks and w^hltes of the teggs together. Then add the flour, knd beat very light. Add the milk, pouring gradually, and having the batter no thicker than cream. Add the salt, and mix well. Now comes the most important part, the baking. Unless this is properly done, your la- bor has- fallen to naught. Have a wide pancake pan, and let it be very hot. Gi-ease it with butter, or, bet- ter still, with a piece of fat bacon. This is the safest way, as you will not have a pancake swimming in grease, a most undesirable offering 'at any table. Pour in batter, suffi- cient to just cover the bottom of the pan. In a minute, or perhaps 'less time, the cake must be ready to turn. This is the critical moment that the old Creole cooks used to un- derstand so well. By a peculiar sleight of hand that comes only by experience, the cake was tossed and caught In the pan, and the brown side was brought up without failure, and the cake lay just as smooth as though untouched. Those who wish to learn the art must begin slowly at first. If you have never tossed a pancake, and attempt to do it before you have caught the trick, as the old Creoles used to call it, you will make a 'miserable failure, and have only a mingled heap of batter. Go slowly, and learn. The old darkies used to teay, when one of their number could toss a "crfipe" to the top of the chim- ney and bring it down again slick and smooth, with the brown side up, tossing minute after minute, "like lightning," that the woman was "for sure one hoodoo, and the old devil himself had taught her to toss and fry." But the pancakes thus tossed savored neither of flre nor brimstone, and, when rolled up with lnfinlte:art 237 and ready to serve hot on a dainty china dish, many, were the enooiniums that masters and mistresses bestowed upon their faithful old slaves. "Crfipes" may be served as an entr§e at breakfast, dinner or supper. They make an excellent luncheon dish. Freuch PancaKes. Crgpes a. la Prangaise. % Pound of Flonr. 4 Eggs. % Pint of (iold Millj. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. Sift the flour into a bowl. Break in the eggs; beat well, and add one ounce of powdered sugar. Mix thor- oughly with a spatula, and then add the cold milk, pouring it in gradu- ally. Mix well for six minutes. Have ready a clean griddle; butter lightly, and, when hot, drop on it about two large spoonfuls of the batter at a time. Let the cakes bake two min- utes on each side, and then .turn and bake two minutes on the other. Turn the pancake on a diSh; sprinkle gener- ously with powdered sugar. Con- tinue baking the cakes and turning on the dish, sprinkling each in turn with the powdered sugar, till all is used. The above quantity of batter will make one dozen pancakes. • French Pancakes AVItli Jelly. Crgpes Frangaia a, 1-a Gel6. % Pound of Flour. 4 Eggs. H Pint of Cold Mllli. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar, 1 Glass of Jelly. Prepare the batter exactly as in the above recipe. When the pan- cakes are nicely cooked, arrange them neatly on a dish, and spread over each a half tablespoonful of apple, strawberry, raspberry, currant, peach or any kind of jelly desired: then roll them up nicely and dress on a dessert dish and sprinkle pow- dered white sugar over them. Send to the table hot. Some glaze the surface of each pancake with a red hot iron. But this is a matter of taste and decoration. CHAPTER XXXII. DSSSBRTS. Des Desserts. Desserts are many and varied. They comprise Compotes, Puddings, Pies and Pastry, Cakes, Ices, Creams, etc., all of which are specially treated in order. The Creoles are famous for their dainty and delightful desserts. COMPOTES. Des Compotes. Compotes are fruits preserved in very little sugar, and made as need- ed in the household. The fruits are always blanched, and a little sugar Is added for them to absorb, and then they are put into dishes, and the syrup is poured over them. The Cre- oles often out the fruits into many pretty shapes, especially apples and peaches. It is always better to blanch the fruits in thinned syrup than in water. To preserve the whiteness of the peeled fruits, they should be peeled as rapidly as possible, and put into the saucepan with the water or syrups and , blanched only long enough to soften, and then arranged In ; the dish and covered with the syrup. If the fruits are not ripe, they ought to be put into syrup over the Are to cook a little. All compotes may be served as des- serts or entremets. Compote of Apples. Compote de Poihmes. 1 Dozen Apples. 1 Found ot Sugar. %. Cup of Water. Pare the apples, cut thfem in quar- ters, cut out the cores, and pierce them several times, to draini the juice. Boil six apples in one pound of su- gar and half a. cup of water, and add the finely cut peel of a lemon, togeth- er with the lemon juice. "When they are tvell blanched, take them ' out, •vyithout letting them cook too much,, and place in a dish. They must be soft, but hot pithy. Put the apples that you have cut into quarters into the syrup, and let hem boil o a jelly in the juice. . Then drain well, and pour over the apples. Sprinkle with a little grated nutmeg and powdered sugar. This is excellent. To make a compote of whole ap- ples, first remove the core its whole length, by inserting a long tin cut- ter at one end, and then at the other end, and with the finger force the core out. In this way you will not split the apple. Finish as in the above recipe. 238 Stnited Apple Connpote. Compote de Pommes Farcies. 1 Dozen Apples. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Cup ol Orange or Apricot Marmalade. • Cup of Water. 14 Teaspoon of Ground Cinnamon. yt. of a Grated Nutmeg. Pare fine, large apples, take out the core, and be careful to leave the apple entire. Then fill the opening with orange or apricot marmalade, and put them together in a pan with a pound of clarified sugar. Add a half cup of water. Let them coolc soft in the oven, sprinkling first with grated cinnamon. Add grated nut- meg when done, and serve either hot or cold. Apricot Compote. Compote d'Abricots. 1 Dozen Apricots. 1 Pound of Sugar. yt. Pound of Apple Jelly. Cut the apricots in two, and peel. Rinse them in cold water, and then proceed to cook them in syrup made of sugar and a little water. Add a little Apple Jelly to the sugar after you have taken out the apricots. Mix the jelly well with the syrup, pour over the apricots and serve. Banana Compote. Compote de Bananes. 1 Dozen Bananas. % Pound of Sugar. Tbe Juice of Half a Lemon. 14 Cup of Water. Peel the Bananas and cut them into halves. Put the sugar and the water on to boil, and after ten min- utes add the lemon juice. Then put the bananas, a few at a time, into the hot syrup and let them stew gent- ly. After a half hour take them out lay in a dish, pour over the hot liq- uid syrup, and serve either hot or cold. Compote of Banana Cassa. Compote de Banane Cassa. 1 Banana Cassa. lii Pounds of Granulated Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. ^ Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice, Cinnamon and Mace. Vi Grated Nutmeg. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla or Lemon Extract. The "Banana Cassa" is a form of vegetable fruit that Is very much used among the Creoles In making compotes, etc. It grows on a vine similar to the gourd or "Mirliton," only, unlike the latter, it is consid- ered a fruit, and is served as a des- sert. It is a long, pear-shaped fruit, resembling the banana in color and odor and shape, only it is longer and and broder. Hence the name, "Ba- nana Cassa." It is prepared as fol- lows: Take the ripe fruit, peel It, and cut into slices of about an inch in thickness. Remove the seeds and place the fruit in a bowl of water, to which you will add a small piece of lime; or simply immerse in lime- 'water. Let it soak for three hours. Then remove it and rinse in cold water. Prepare a syrup, allowing one and a quarter pounds of granulated sugar to one quart of water, and when it begins to boil well add the fruit, ground spices and nutmeg, and let all boil till the fruit becomes transparent. If flavoring is preferred to the natural taste, add, according to taste, a tablespoonful of Extract of Lemon or Vanilla. Let it cool and serve as a dessert. It is delicious with Whipped Cream. Compote of BlacltlteTTies. Compote de Mflres. 1 Quart Blackberries, 54 Pound of Sugar. Select fine berries, but not too ripe. Wash them in cold water, and drain through a sieve. Boil the sugar, and add the berries, and let them boll up once very gently. Put them into a dish, pour the jelly over and serve. Cherry Compote. Compote de Cerises. 1 Quart of Cherries. % Pound of Sugar. 14 Oip of Water. To one pound of stoned cherries allow the above amount of sugar. Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and when It makes a syrup add the cherries. Let then! boil up several times. Then drain them with the skimming spoon, and put them in a dish, and add to the juice a glassful of Currant Jelly. Let it boil to a thin jelly, and pour it, w^hen half cold, over the cherries. The Currant Jelly may be omitted %ind the reduced cherry syrup used ^lone. . Compote of Coeoanat. Compote de Coco. 1 Cocoanut. The Juice of 1 Lemon. H Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Pound of Fine White Loaf Sngar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Exeract. Divide the cocoanut into quarters Peel off all the brown skin, and then 'soak the clean, white pieces in cold water, with a little lemon juice and a little salt. Cut them in thin slices first, and then In thick threadlike shreds, just as you would vegetables for Julienne soup. This must be done, however, before soaking In the lemon juice and salt. Then drain the shreds in a clean sieve, and wash them in another water, to free them entirely from oil. Drain well. Boil one pound of the finest white loaf 239 sugar. Then remove it from the fire, and throw in the prepared cot^oanut, and set back on the Are. Let it come to a good boil, stirring lightly with a silver fork. Then lift them out with the fork, after they have boiled up once, and place the cocoanut shreds in a sieve. Let the sugar boil up well again. Add the juice of a lemon to the syrup, boil it very thin, and then throw in the cocoanut shreds, mixing them very lightly in the syrup. Separatee the shreds care- fully with two silver forks, holding one fork in each hand; dish up in a raised pile in a dish; when cold, pour over the clear syrup, flavoring with any extract you wish, preferably va- nilla, and serve. Compote of Cranberries, Compote d'Airelles. I Quart of Cranberries. 1% Pounds of Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Wash and drain the cranberries. Then boil as in Cranberry Jelly, only do not let the cranberries get mashed. Take them out with a skim- mer, and add a half pound of sugar to the syrup, and the Juice of a lem- on. Boil to a syrup and pour over the berries and serve cold. Compote of Currants. Compote de Groseilles. 1 Quart of Currants. % Pound of Sugar. % Cnp of Water. Select nice berries and pick ifilean and wash well in cold water, and drain them through a sieve. Boil the sugar and add the berries. Let them boil up once very gently. Put them in a dish, pour the syrup over and serve. Compote of Damsons. Compote de Prunes. 1 Qnart ot Damsons. . % Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Pick off the stems of the damsons and prick them all over with a pin. Let them simmer in sugar, which you will have boiled to a syrup for about fifteen minutes. Then proceed as in a Compote of Cherries. (See re- cipe.) Compote of Dried Fruits. Compote de Fruits Sees. % Pound of Dried Fruit. % Pound of Sugar. .% Cup of Water, The Juice of 1 Lemon. All dried fruits, such as apples, peaches, apricots, crab apples, etc., are prepared in the same manner as compote of apples and peaches. Only allow the dried fruit to soak in cold water a long while, say about two hours, to swell up. Then boil, and afterwards pour into a syrup of boil- ing sugar, and proceed as in other compotes. Compote of Figs, Compote de Figues. 1 Quart of Pigs. % Cup of Water. 1 Pound ot Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon, Use figs that are not quite ripe. Break off the stalks, and prick them all over, and let them simmer in a syrup, as above. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Com- pote of Cherries. (See recipe.) Figs a la Creole. Figues a. la CrSole. 1 Quart ot Ripe Figs. % Pound of Sunar. Stem and peel and cut the figs in quarters. Figs are always abun- dant with us in August and Septem- ber. Place in a dish, sprinkle well with sugar, and serve with their own syrup, ice cold. Compote of Lemons. Compote de Citrons. V2 Dozen Lemons. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. A Compote of whole' lemons is pre- pared in exactly the same manner as the above, using twice the amount of sugar, or sugar to taste. When squeezed thoroughly and boiled they" make an excellent Creole remedy for colds and coughs. Compote of Malaga Grapes. ^ Compote de Raisins Blancs. 1 Pound ot Malaga Grapes. % Pound of Sugar. V4 Oup of Water. Wash the grapes, then cut a silt in the grape on one side, and take out the seeds. Put the fruit in cold water, and let it boil. Take off the fire, and let it stand uncovered for 'a time, and then put in cold water. When cold lift them out with a skim- ming spoon. Put the grapes in clari- fied sugar, which you will have boiled Mmost to a thread, and let them boil ^up once. Skim them out, and put in la dish. Boil the sugar to half the quantity in syrup, and pour over, and serve. Compote of Mespllus or Japan Plnms. Compote de Mespilus. 1 Qnart of Mespllus. m Cups of Water. % Pound of Sugar. Juice of 1 Lemon. This is a species of delicious Japan plum very common in our States Peel, stone and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Compote of Cherries. (See recipe.) 240 Compote of Oranges. Compote d'Oranges. 1 Dozen Louisiana Orangea. I Pound of Sugar. Tlie Juico of Half a Lemon. H Cup of Water. Peel the oranges, and cut them into halves crosswise, and take out the seeds and the inner pulp. Put the sugar and the water on to boil, and after ten minutes add the lemon Juice. Then put a few of the oranges at a time into the hot syrup, and let them stew gently. After a half hour take them out, lay in a dish, pour over the hot liquid syrup and serve either hot or cold. Compote of Whole Oranges. Compote d'Oranges Entieres. 1 Dozen Louisiana Oranges. 1 Pound of Sugar. Boil the oranges, with their peel, gently in water for twenty minutes. Turn the oranges very thinly and spirally, scoring out, if possible, all the inner pulp and peeling. Make a syrup by boiling the sugar, and add the oranges. Let them simmer for twenty minutes longer. Take off, and allow the oranges to remain in their Juice for several hours. Dish them up in a compote dish, and pour over their syr.up on the instant of sending to the table. Oranges, Creole Style. Oranges a. la. Creole. 1 Dozen Fine Louisiana Oranges. % Pound of Sugar. Peel the oranges and cut in slices, and sprinkle with sugar, to form a syrup. Let them stand for several hours in a cool place, and serve either as a preliminary to breakfast or as a dessert. This is a delightful Creole way of serving oranges. Compote of Peaches. Compote de P§ches. 1 Dozen Peaches. 1 Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Take well-grown, somewhat unripe peaches. Then cut them in two, and take out the stones. Put the peach- es into boiling water, and let them stand tin they are soft, and then throw in cold water till cold. Peel them and put them into the sugar, adding a little water, and let them boil up several times. Then drain with the skimmer, lifting them into the dish gently. Pour over the re- duced syrup, and serve with milk or whipped cream. Compote of Pears. Compote de Poires. 7 Large, Fine Pears. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice of a Lemon. Va Cup of Water. Scrape the pears spirally from head to stalk with a tapering tin cutter, to take out the cores. Then put the sugar and one-half cup of water on the Are, and add to it four or Ave pears, which you will have cut into pieces. As this forms a syrup place the whole pears in it, and let them simmer, adding the lemon Juice to keep them white. When done, place the pears in order in a dish. Let the syrup stew down to a nice jelly, and then pour over and serve. Apple Jelly may be spread over the pears first, and the syrup poured after- wards. This increases the flavor of this delightful compote. Compote of Plums. Compote de Prunes. 1 Quart of Plums. 54 Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Pick off the stems of the plums and prick them all over with a pin. Let them simmer in sugar, which you will have boiled to a syrup for about fifteen minutes. Then proceed as in a Compote of Cherries. (See recipe.) ^ Compote of Pineapple. Compote d' Ananas. 1 Pineapple. % Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Peel the pineapple^ and cut in slices, very thin. Put it into a syrup made of half a pound of sugar, and let it boil up once. Take out. and let the syrup simmer a few minutes longer, pour over the pineapple, and serve. Another method very common among the Creoles, and often pre- ferred to the former by many, is to slice the pineapple nicely, place in a dish, sprinkle with powdered white sugar, let the pineapple form a- nat- ural syrup and serve. This is deli- cious. Some add Claret or White Wine to this compote. Compote of Plantain, Creole Style. Compote de Plantain a, la Cr6ole. 6 Plantains. % Pound of Sugar. The Juice of Half a Lemon. 1 Cup of Water. Peel the plantains and cut Into halves or quarters. Put the sugar and water on to boil, and, after ten minutes, add the lemon juice. Then put the pieces of plantain, a few at a time, into the hot syrup and let them stew gently. After 'half an hour. Or forty-five minutes if iiot tender, take them out, lay in a dish, pour over the hot syrup, and serve either hot or cold. The plantain is a variety of banana, and may ,be prepared in every man- ner in which bananas are cooked, such as fried bananas, stewed banan- as, banana fritters, pudding, cake and pie. (See recipes.) Unlike the ba^ 241 nana, however, the plantain is never eaten raw, as it is a fruit of much coarser fiber; but, when coolted, equals the banana in delicacy of taste. It is a favorite dish on Creole tables. Compote of Plantain, Old Style. Compote de Plantain 3, I'Anoienne Mode. 6 Plantains. Vt Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Rum. Kirsch or Maraschino Sauce. The following is a famous Creole way of cooking plantains that has fallen in desuetude, but which de- serves to be resurrected as one of the most delightful methods of pre- paring plantains: Have ready a pile of hot ashes in the oven. Put the plantains (unpeeled) into the ashes and cover well with ashes. Let them roast thus for half an hour; then take out, peel, cut into quarters and sprinkle with sugar. Set in the oven a few minutes and serve hot, with a Rum, Kirsch or Maraschino Sauce. Compote of Fomesranates. Compote de Grenades. 1 Dozen Pomegranates. % Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. X Tablespoonful of Orange Juice or Maraschino. Cut a circle about the size of a five-cent piece out of the pe.el of the pomegranate, using a sharp-pofnted knife. Then split down the sides of their skins, and carefully remove all the bright ruby pips, without bruis- ing them. Throw these into a dish. Make a syrup, flavored with orange juice or Maraschino, and pour over and serve. Compote of Fmnea. Compote de Pruneaux. 1 Pound of Prunes ^ Pound of Sugar. 1 Glass of Claret. Soak the prunes over night in cold water, and drain. Put them into a saucepan with water, cover the saucepan, and let them boil over a moderate fire. When they begin to soften, add a glass of red wine and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Let it boil, stirring frequently, till the prunes are cooked well. Then take them from the fire, rub a piece of su- gar over an orange or a lemon, and when it is completely saturated with the zest, put Into a dish, pour the prunes in with their Juice, and serve cdia. It is not absolutely necessary to 8oak the prunes over night, but they cook much more easily if you do. Prunes are very healthy and are served twice a week in every con- vent in New Orleans. Stewed prunes are prepared in ex- actly the same manner as above, only the sugar is put on with the prunes and the wine is omitted. Compote of Raspberries. Compote de Framboises. 1 Quart of Raspberries. % Pound of Sugar, Select fine Raspberries, but not too ripe. Wash them in cold water, and drain through a sieve. Boil the su- gar, and add the berries and let them boil up once very gently. Put them into a dish, pour the Jelly over and serve. StravFberry Compote. Compote de Praises. 1 Quart of Strawberries. % Pound of Sugar. Select fine strawberries, but not too ripe. Wash them in cold water, and drain through a sieve. Boil the sugar, and add the berries, and let them boil up once very gently. Put them into a dish, pour the Jelly over, and serve. HOW TO SERVE FRESH FRUITS AND DESSERTS. Fruits are served in New Orleans tables e-very day. There is always a variety of fruit in our markets. We have out own magnificent Louisiana oranges, peaches, pears and plums, grapes of all varieties, mangoes, mes- tilus, in their season, pomegranates, strawberries, raspberries, blackber- ries, which are to be had for the pick- ing, bananas and plantains galore, lemons, citrons — in a word, all the fruits of the tropical and temperate zones. In .arranging fruits on the table, the higher they are elevated the pret- tier the effect, and the more tempting the sight. It is out of taste to mix fruits, cakes and bonbons on the same dish. Serve each in its own dish, and these alter- nating when the dessert is brought on, tend much to tempt the appetite of the guest. Fruits are most whole- some when ripe, and form a part of the well regulated family meal for breakfast, as a preliminary, and for dinner as an after dessert. In serv- ing the desserts that are cooked, always be careful to dish them nicely and neatly. Always serve raw fruits ice cold. This end is easily attained by plac- ing the fruit in an ice box or refrig- erator. CHAPTER XXXIII. PASTRY AND PIBS. Patisserie. The most important point in mak- ing pastries of all kinds is to make the pastry crust of the proper con- sistency. The crust of pies should always be light, flaky and delicately crisp. To attain this end, only the best flour should be used. In making Puff Paste, always use ice water. In making pie crust, use tepid water if you wish for the best results. The great secret of all pastry depends upon the proper manipulation with the fingers. PUFF PASTE, pats Feuilletee. 1 Pint of Flour. 1 Pound of Good Butter, or Halt Lard and Half Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Cup of Ice Water. 1 Egg. Have the flour dry and fresh and the butter of the freshest. Wash the butter well, till it becomes clear and elastic to the touch, and cut It Into Jour equal parts, and place it in a bowl, which you will have cooled with Ice water. Set it away to cool and harden. Have your flour sifted and ready, and the egg beaten and at Jiand. Put the flour into a bowl and add to it a lump of butter; work it with your hand, handling always as lightly as possible; add the egg, then salt, and, if the paste is In- tended for cakes, a teaspoonful of sugar. Work all well, but very light- ly, with the fingers and thumb, and then gradually add the ice water, working it well and lightly into the flour. When all is worked in, knead Jightly for about five minutes, just as though you were making bread. Then cut the dough into halves; sprinkle the board lightly with flour; take the rollingpin and roll the paste out very thin, rolling each half into a half sheet. Break the butter into bits; take about one-quarter of the remainder, quickly spread this over the paste; then dredge it very lightly with flour and lay over it the other sheet. Dredge this with flour lightly and pound with the rollingpin light- ly; then roll this from you into a long thin sheet. Spread a thin coat- ing of butter over this, and then fold the paste over from the sides to the center, and then back again, till you have three folds. Then turn and roll this again till quite thin; add a second quarter of butter broken Into bits; dredge lightly with flour and fold and roll as before, always in the same direction — from you. Re- peat this process, folding and rolling, till all the butter is used. Then cut the paste into three or four parts, according to quantity, and set in the ice box in tin plates for twenty min- utes, or until you are ready to use. It may be kept for several days, if rolled in a napkin and set in a cool place. This is the paste used In making Vol-au-vents, small patfis, etc. The most important point is the baking. The oven should be very hot. If you have used all the best materials that wealth can procure, and yet do not have the oven proper- ly heated, all your efforts will have been in vain. Do not set the crust too near the inner fire part of the oven, as it will bake unevenly, and one side will be higher than the oth- er. It is always well to bake small pates with a strong underheat, thus allowing them to rise to their full height before browning. If the oven be too hot, and the paste begins to brown as soon as put in, quickly open the drafts of the stove and re- duce the temperature. It is well to bake the under crust first before putting in the filling in meat pies. In baking small patties, cut the dough out with a biscuit cutter, leav- ing the outer rounds distinct from the center. Remove the center and cut out other little rings, and place these one on top of the other, above the bottom crust, which should be solid. In this way is produced the effect of each section being crisp and apparently separate from the other. Some use the white of an egg only; others omit it entirely. It is op- tional. PIE CRUST. pate Bris6e. 3 Caps of Silted Flour. 1% Cups of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. Nearly a Cup of Tepid Water. This quantity will make crusts and coverings for three ordinary pies. Rub the flour and butter very light- ly together, being careful not to allow it to harden under touch; keep on kneading a little butter at a time into the fiour till you have used up all and the dough feels greasy to the touch. Always remember to add 243 the salt before putting in the but- ter. Some add a tablespoonful of sugar, but the sweetned filling will be generally found suSioient. Then add, little by little, the, water, knead- ing, gently, till you have a nice, soft dough, lifting out the portion that is wet and continuing to knead as you mix the flour and water. Always be very careful in adding the water, and never wet the flour twice in the same place. Mix all together lightly with your hands when all is mois- ened, using always your own good judgment in adding water. Do not work the dough; simply mix lightly and thoroughly, and then dredge the board lightly with the flour. If you intend to make two pies, cut the dough into four parts. Turn the paste out upon the board and roll lightly and quickly into long, thin sheets. Use as little flour as pos- sible in rolling, as your dough will grow tough the niore you work it, and the more you add flour and roll it. Remember always that the less flour used in rolling, the tenderer will be the paste. Therefore always cut the dough in as many sections as you intend to mc-ke pies, allowing for an upper and an under crust; this will obviate the necessity of rolling It again. Take the pie pans immedi- ately, and place a sheet of dough over each, and trim the edges nicely. Set in the stove, let them bake light- ly, and then add the filling of fruits. Place a light thin cover of crust ov.ei' them, and trim the edges; deo- orate the edges prettily, using the end of a fork or spoon, and set in the hot oven to bake quickly. When done, set to cool. Sprinkle, when cool, with powdered white sugar, rolling the loaf sugar into a powder, rather than using the pulverized, if you wish an elegant taste. Thus made, the pies ought to have a rich, light, flaky crust, that will, as the old Creole darkies used to say, "melt in your mouth." Tpu cannot attain this end if you use Ipe-cojd water in making this kind of paste. Paste made with lard may be used for meat pies anfl dumplinge, and for stews and chicken, when coojced with dumplings. Only roll very thin. Some persons use lard for pie crust. This is to be deprecated. The crust will never have the same flavor ^s when made with butteer. Others, again, mix the butter and lard. This, too, is to be condemned if you wish for the best results. If any pie crust is left, do not think of throwing it away. Take all the bits left from cutting around the edges of the pie pans; roll very thin' l;ito small squares; bake lightly, and save for tea or luncheon. Put a spoonful of orange, pineapple, lemon or raspberry jelly on each square; and they will be found delicious. FOUNDATION PASTE. Pa,te a, Foncer. % Pound of Flour. % Pint of Water. 1 Ounce of Butter. % Teaspoonful of Salt.' Sift the flour well; mix with the salt; then rub the flour and butter lightly together, being careful not to let it harden under the touch. When the butter and flour are well 'kneaded, add the water gradually, kneading little by little, till well kneaded. Do not work the dough; simply mix lightly and thoroughly. Flour the table lightly, turn the paste 'out upon it, and press in the center and around the edges, repeating this operation three or four times. Then flatten the paste, lay on a dish and cover with a towel and set in a cool place till ready to use, which should be in about twenty-five minutes, at least. PliAIN PASTE FOR DUMPIilNGS, Pa,te a. Dresser. 2 Cups of Sifted Flour. 1 Large Heaping Kitcbenspoontul of Butter.- or Lard. % Cup of Tepid Water. Vi Teaspoonful of Salt. Blend the salt and the flour, and then gradually mix in the butter, if tor apple dumplings or rolls. Use lard If intended for dumplings for chicken stews, veal stews, etc; Fol- low the same directions given for tnaking pie paste. Add the water by 'degrees, using good judgment al- ways, and lifting the dough out as ■you wet it,, never wetting twice in the same place. Mix and knead light- ly, and then sift a light coating of flour on the board, and roll out with the rolling pin, ,and use for all pur- t)oses in this book where Plain Paste is indicated. If necessary to keep the paste awhile, place in a napkin in the ice box. But do not use ice water in mixing it, or you will have a tough dough. To attain perfect success in making all pastes, mix quickly, knead slightly, roll quickly and bake rapidly, .using always as little flour as possible in rolling. Never beat pie crust or plain paste. Tou will hard-, en it and make it just the reverse of the light, palatable paste you desire. Use above paste, for chicken dump- lings, meat dumplings and apple dumplings, rolling out the dough ex- ceedingly thin in small pieces of about two and a half inches in length one in width, and at least one-eighth of an inch in thickness. With these preliminary instruc- tions, the Picayune will proceed to give the recipes for the various pies, made in Creole households. 244 Apple Fie. Tairte aux Pommes. 4 Large Apples (tart). 1 Oup Sugar. 1 Teas^oonful Sweet Spices, Blended Equally. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. Pare and slice the apples nicely. Then put them in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and let them stew gently, adding the water and the butter. Season well with a little ground cin- namon, mace and allspice. When done, take off and allow to cool a little. Make a flaky pie crust (see recipe), and line the tin plates, after greasing slightly with butter, and bake the bottom crist slightly brown. Take out and fill in with the apples, and then cover the top with a thin layer of crust. Decorate the edges, and set in the oven to bake. "When a nice, delicate brown, take out and let them cool. Remove from the tin plate by slightly loosening the outer edge with a knife. Turn over into a china plate, sprinkle with white powdered sugar, and serve cold or hot. A pie is always better served cold when made of fruit. The above is the general rule to be observed in making pies. , Some- times the pies are left open, being covered with tiny strips of paste. This is a matter of taste. Utilize odd bits of paste and fruits thus. Apple Tarts. Tartelettes aux Pommes. 4 Ounces of Fie Paste. 3 Ounces of Apple Marmalade. 3 Apples. 2 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. 1 Pint of Water. Prepare the Pie Paste (see recipe),' and line six tart molds with it. Peel and core the apples and cut into Quarters, and put into a saucepan with a pint of cold water. Let them cook on a hot stove for ten minutes. Then remove and drain, and let cool for half an hour. Then cut the quar- ters into three slices each; line the bottom of the molds with the mar- malade divided evenly; arrange the sliced apples nicely over the mar- malade, and dredge nicely with two ounces of powdered sugar. Set in a baking dish and bake for twenty minutes, or a half hour if necessary, in a moderate oven. Take out and spread nicely with apple marmalade and serve. A simpler way is as follows: Pare and quarter the apples. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. Make a pie crust; roll into small bits; place the apples in the open crust, fold over, fasten by pressing in an ornamental way with a fork, and bake in a quick oven un- til the apples are very tender. Apple MeringrnS Fie, Tartes de Pommes Meringufies. 4 Large Apples. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices, Blended Equally. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla or Lemon Essence. Peel, slice and stew ripe, juicy ap- ples, and mash them through a sieve. Season with a little grated nutmeg, using the proportion all through this recipe given in Apple Pie. (See re- cipe.) Pill the pie plates with the crust, bake and fill with the stewed apples. Let them bake for about twenty minutes, and then spread over the top a thick meringue, made by 'beating the whites of three eggs for each pie, with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, if you desire a deep, rich meringue; otherwise, al- low the white of one egg and one ta- blespoonful of sugar. Flavor with vanilla or lemon, and coritinue beat- ing till it will stand alone. Cover the pies with this meringue three- iquarters of an inch or one-quarter of an inch thick, according to quantity used; set in the stove and let brown, and eat cold. Banana Fie. Tarte de Bananes. 4 Large Bananas. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices, 31ended Equally. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. ' Peel, slice and stew the bananas ■and mash through a sieve. Prepare a Pie Paste and proceed as in Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Banana Merln^n^ Fie. Tarte de Bananes Meringu6s. 4 Large Bananas. % Cnp of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices. Wbites of 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. 1 Teaspoonful Grated Nutmeg. Peel, slice and stew the banana3= and mash through a- sieve; then pro- ceed as in directions for Apple Me- ringue Pie. (See recipe.) Blackberry Fie. Tarte de Mures. 1 Quart of Blackberries. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Teaspouutul of Sweet Spices. 2 Table- spoonfuls of Water. Stew the blackberries and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apple Pie. using the same proportions. foi" two pies. (See recipe.) 24b Clierry Pie. Tarte de Cerises. 1 Quart of Cherries. 1 Cup of Sugar, 1 TablespooDfuI of Water. _■ All fruit pies arer best when the fruit is previously cooked. Stew the cherries gently, as for a "inarmalade, and prepare the pie crust according to directions, and proceed as in di- rections for making pies. Chocolate Cream Pie. Tarte &, la Crfeme de Chocolat. 2 Quarts of Milk. ^ of a Cake of Vanilla or French Chocolate, % Cup of White Sugar. 6 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vanilla. First dissolve the chocolate in a little milk, and then stir into the boiling milk. Let it boil about four minutes. Then set to cool. "When almost cool, add the yolks of all the eggs and the whites of three, saving the remainder for the meringue. Stir these eggs well into the chocolate, and add the essence of vanilla. Then put into pie pans, in which you will already have baked the under crust. Set in the oven and let the custard grow to a "set" state. When half done, spread over the -whites of the eggs, which have been w^hipped to a stiff froth, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let the pies brown lightly, and serve cold. By baking the above preparation, with- out the paste, in cups set in boiling water, you will have a Chocolate Cup Custard. Cocoannt Pie. Tarte de Coco. 1 Pint of Milk. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Gratea Cocoanut. 2 Eggs. % of a Grated Nutmeg. Beat the eggs' very light. Add the sugar and beat with the eggs until very light. Add the grated nutmeg, and finally the cocoanut. Make a pie crust (see recipe), using half the Quantity, as a cocoanut pie is always an uncovered pie. Pill with the mix- ture, and bake in the oven for about half an hour. Creole Cocoanut Flc. Tarte de Coco a. la Creole. % Pound of Grated Cocoanut. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. % Pound of White Powdered Sugar. The Whites of 6 Eggs. 1 Glass of White Wine. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vanilla. 1 Tablespoonful of Nutmeg. Beat the sugar and butter to a light cream, and then add the wine and the essence of vanilla. Gradu- ally add the cocoanut, beating in as lightly as possible. Add the scalded milk, which has been allowed to cool, and finally beat in lightly the ■whites of the eggs, which have been whipped to a very stiff froth. Do this latter wjth a, few swift strokes, so that the cocoanut may stand out fresh and flaky, like snow. Bake in pie crusts which have already been set in the oVen. Serve cold, sprink- ling over white powdered sugar. This ■is a famous Creole pie. Cream Pie. Darriole. 1 Pint of Milk. The Whites of Four Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. % Cup Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence or Lemon Juice. Blend the flour and butter well 'together, and when light add the 'milk gradually. Cornstarch may be 'Substituted for the flour. Add the essence of vanilla or the juice of a lemon, and then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir them well into the boiling mixture, and then fill the pie pans, which you have filled with crust, baked accord- ing to directions. Place In the oven %nd bake until a nice brown. A cream pie should be served very cold. Cranberry Pie. ' Tarte d'Airelles. VA Pints of Cranberries. 1 Cup of Sugar. Plain Pie Crust. Cook the cranberries as for Cran- berry Sauce. (See recipe.) Do not tetram the berries. Prepare the pie ^crust. Bake the lower crust, and fill With the fruit, and proceed as iij general directions for making pies given under the heading "Apple Pie." A cranberry pie, properly made, is one of the most delicious of all pies. Custard Pie. Flan. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. Vi Cup of Sugar. Vanilla or Lemon Extract. A .Pinch of Salt. ■ Line the pie pans with the pie 'crust. (See recipe.) Beat the eggs •lightly in a bowl. Add the sugar 'and the fiavoring extract. -Set the milk to boil in a farina boiler. Whe^ it boils, pour it gently upon the' eggs, .and stir till all is thoroughly .blend- ed. Then till the pie pans with this filling. Place in a moderate oven, and bake for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Currant Pie. Tarrte de Groseilles Bouges. ^ Pint of Currants. % Cnp of Sugar. Plain Pie Paste. Clean and pick and wash the. cur- rants well; drain nicely, and then put into a saucepan with one-half cup 246 of sugar. Stew nicely, and then pro- ceed as in the directions given for making Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Franglpanl. Frangipane. 8 Ounces of Shelled Almonds. 3 Tablespoon- fuls of Powdered Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 2 Eggs. % Spoonful of Ground Cinnamon. % Tea- spoonful of Orange Flower Water. ^ Gill of Bum. Prepare a pie paste, and peel three ounces of shelled almonds. Then put them into a mortar and pound to a paste, with the powdered sugar and a raw egg. When reduced to a very fine paste, add the melted butter, ground cinnamon and the orange flower water. Beat the yolk of an egg well, and then beat the white to a stiff froth and mix thoroughly. Now add the rum and mix again. Line the pie pans with the pie paste, and All with the pieparation of al- monds. Set in a moderate oven for thirty-five or forty minutes; then set to cool for a half hour. In the meantime prepare a "Glace a I'Eau" as follows: Put one ounce of white granulated sugar into a saucepan, with one tablespoonful of cold wa- ter, and let it come to a boil. Take off the fire and add immediately a ta- blespoonful of curacoa; mix thor- oughly, and then glaze theh surface of the cake with this. Let it cool an send to the table. Gooseberry Pie. Tarte de Groseilles Blanches. 1 Quart of Gooseberries. 1% Cups of Sugar. A Plain Pie Paste. Top and tail the gooseberries. Line two deep pie dishes with a plain Pie Paste (see recipe); fill with ber- ries; add nearly one cup of sugar to each pie, and proceed as i.n recipe for Apple Pie. Set in the oven and let the pies bake for three-quarters of an hour. If the gooseberries are stewed as blackberries. It will re- quire less time to bake. Green Gage Pie, Tartre de Reine-Claude, 8 Eipe Greengages. 3 Ounces of Apple Marmalade. Va Pound of FeulUetage Paste. Prepare a half pound of Feuille- tage Paste (see recipe) and line six tart mold? with It. Then spread nice- ly on the bottom of each three ounces of Apple Marmalade. (See recipe.) Take the greengages, wipe well and remove the stones; cut into quartered pieces and lay nicely over the mar- malade. Sprinkle two ounces of powdered sugar evenly over them in a, moderate oven and bake for twen- ty-five minutes. Remove; let cool; spread apple marmalade nicely over the top and send to the table. Huckleberry Pie. Tarte de Mflres de Ronce. 1 Quart of Huckleberries. % Cup of Sugar, A Plain Pie Paste. In making this delicious pie, pro- ceed in the same manner as in the recipe given for Cherry Pie. (See re- cipe.) liemon Pie, Tarte de Citron. 1% Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Corn Starch or 2 of Flour. 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Juice and Inner Fruit and 2est of Two Grated Lemons. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream; add the eggs, the yolks and the white beaten separately, and then add the hot water and the juice and meat of the lemon and the grated zest. Moisten the flour or cornstarch with a little cold water, and stir into the mixture. Line the pie pans with plain paste or pie crust. (See recipe.) Bake the under crust a few minutes. Then fill the pans with the mixture, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. Or cook the custard first, as many of the Creoles do, declaring that thus they reach better results. Boil the water, and then wet the flour, or cornstarch with a little cold water, blending thoroughly. Stir this into the water, and let all come to the' boiling point. Then add the sugar, and, if you wish, the butter. Let It boil up once. Take off, and add Im- mediately the beaten eggs, and set to cool. Then add the lemon juice and grated lemon zest, stirring well. Bake the under crust of the pie, fill "with this mixture, and set in the V)vsn to brown flicely. This should I)e an open pie. Indeed, all lemon pies should be open, as custard pies always are. The above measure- ments will make two pies. Liemon Meringue Pie. Tarte de Citron M§ringu6e. 1% Cups of Milk or Water. 1% Cups of White Sugar. 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour or Cornstarch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White Sugar. The Juice and Grated Zest of 2 Lemons. Have ready the pie pans, with the baked crust. Beat the sugar and the yolks well together, and add the juice and grated zest of the le;nons. Blend the flour and milk gradually, and pour it through a sieve into the eggs. Mix thoroughly. Pill the lined pans with this, and set in the oven to bake for twenty or thirty minutes. Add gradually three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to the whites of the 247 eggs, beating' steadily all the, time, and when it Is all absorbed beat it to a stiit froth. Place this over the top of the pie by spoonfuls, and then smooth lightly with the spoon, place in the oven, and let It brown. This is a delicious pie. .. Mince Pie. pats de Noel. 3 Pounds of Beef, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Pound of Beef or Mutton Suet. i Pounds of Apples, Pared and Chopped. 2 Pounds of Raisins, Seeded and Chopped. 1 Pound of Sultana Raisins, Picked and Washed. 2 Pounds of Currants, Picked and Washed. 1 Pound of Citron, Cut Very Fine. % Pound of Lemon Peel, Grated Very Fine. 2 Pounds of Brown Sugar. Pound- of Candied Lemon Peel, if desired. 2 Grated Nutmegs. 1 Tablespoontul Each Of Ground Cloves and Allspice. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Ground Mace. 1 Tahlespoonful of Fine Salt. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Ground Cinnamon. 1 Quart of Good Sherry or Madeira. 1 Quart of the Best Brandy. The Juice of Two Lemons. The Juice of 2 Oranges, and the Rind, Grated Fine. The meat should be good and lean, and should be boiled the day before needed, or early in the morning, and allowed to cool. In boiling the meat, plunge it into boiling (not cold) wa- ter, for the boiling water enables it to retain. -its juices. Boil steadily till tender. Then stand away to cool. Chop the meat very fine, and clear away all gristle and slcin. Shred the suet, and chop, or, rather mince it very, very fine. Then pare and core the apples, and chop very fine. Stone the raisins, and cut the citron fine. Many prefer to leave out the candied lemon. That is according to taste. The mince meat is heavier with it. The taste is much more delicate and the pie much more digestible without. Grate the orange and lemon peel very fine. Then mix the meat and suet together, chopping again, and add all the ingredients, mixing well together. Add the Juices of the lemon and or- ange, and the grated rinds, and then mix all well again, and paclc in a stone jar. Pour over this the quart of brandy, and the wine, and cover very tightly, and set in a very cool place. Mince meat made' in this man- ner should keep all winter. The Cre- oles generally begin to make It, like their fruit cakes, just before Thanks- giving time, and set it away, having vecourse to it for Christmas and New Tear's pies, or whenever needed. When ready to use the meat, dish out the quantity you desire, and thin to the desired consistency with good Slierry or Madeira wine. Be very careful in pickittg the currants care- fully, seeding out all grains of sand or dirt and pieces of twigs of trees. Wash them very, very carefully, in cold w^ater, separating the good from the bad, and the great quantity q{ refuse that always lurks in bouglit currants. The Creoles often use the fresh beef tongue or the heart of the beef, well- chopped and boiled, in making this mince meat. The filet of beef is best. Mince meat made in this manner •never need cause dyspepsia. If the housekeeper is careful in using it, and i»i properly keeping it, it need not be made more than once or twice during the winter. It should be made at least twenty-four hours be- fore using. To make the pies, line the bottom, of the pie pans with the pie crust, bake the bottom layer, and then fill with the mince meat. Cover the pies with a thin crust, or leave open, if preferred, bake till a nice, delicate brown, sprinkle lightly with white sugar, and serve hot. Mince pies kept from day to day should be warmed over before. serving. PInin Mince Meat. pate de Noel Simple. ^ A plain mince meat for every day •use may be made as follows: ' 2 Pounds of Meat. 2^4 Pounds of Apples. 2 Pounds of Seeded Raisins. 2 Pounds of Currants. 1 Pint of Brandy. % Pint of Good Sherry. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Cinnamon. Gloyes, Nutmeg and Mace, Grated. 2 Pounds of Brown Sugar. The Juice and Rind of 1 Lemon. The Juice and Bind of 1 Orange. % Pound of Mutton or Beet Suet. V4 Pound of Chopped Citron. Proceed to prepare the meat and the pies as in above recipe. Lenten Mince Pies. patg de Noel au CarSme. 4 Pounds of the Best Apples, Cored and Minced. 2 Pounds of Balsins, Stoned and Minced. 8 Haid-Boiled Eggs, Chopped Fine. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Ground Spices, as Above. Juice and Kind of 2 Lemons. Grated. The Juice of an Orange, and Rind, Grated. 2 Pounds of Currants. 2 Pounds of Sugar, or Sugar to Taste. % Pint Each of Brandy and Sherry. Mix all well together in lesser proportions, according to the num- ber of pies you wish to make, and proceed as above. (See recipe Minco Pie.) 248 Molasses Pie. Tarte de Melasse. 2 Cups of New Orleans Molasses, % Cup of Sugar. The Juice of 2 Lemons. 3 Eggs. ?. Tablespoonfuls of Flour. % Teaspoonful Each of Nutmeg and Cinna- mon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Blend the lemon juice and molas- ses well, and gradually beat in the flour, which you will have moistened with a little water. Then add the spices and the butter, melted, and the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light with the sugar. Finally, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix well. Line the pie pans with a pie crust (see recipe), bake, All with the mixture, and bake again for half an hour. One-quarter of a cup of vin- egar may be substituted for the lem- on juice, but always use the latter if you have it. Orangre Pie. Tarte d'Oranges. 2 Fine Louisiana Oranges and Their Juice. The Rind of 1 Orange, Grated. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoontul of Cornstarch. 3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar. % Teacupful of Boiling Water. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Then blend the cornstarch with sufficient cold water to moisten and mix well, and stir into the tea- cup of water, which should be boil- ing in a saucepan. Let it cook, stir- ring constantly, for two minutes only. Then add the butter and sugar, and stir well. Remove-from the fire, and add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Line the pie plates with pie crust (see recipe), and bake the un- der crust. Add the custard, and let it get slightly brown in the oven. Then take out, and spread over the Whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, with two tablespoonfuls of fine white powdered sugar. Let It bake for about three minutes longer in a quick oven, and serve cold. The me- ringue on top must be slightly browned. Peach Pie. Tarte de Piches. 1 Dozen Large Peaches. 1 Cup of Sugar. A Plain Paste. . Pare and cut the peaches into slices. Stew the peaches and pro- ceed in exactly the same manner as for Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Sprinkle tie tops of the covers with fine white Jiswdered sugar when ready to serve. Peach Merliigiie Pie. - Tarte de PSches M6rlngu§es. 1 Dozen Peaches. Sugar to Taste. TJTiItes of 6 Eggs. 6 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Pare and stone the peaches, and Btew according to recipe. (See re- cipe Stewed Apples or Peaches.) Line the bottoms of two pie pans with a rich pie crust, and then fill in with the peaches, which you will have sweetened to taste. Bake in a quick oven twenty or twenty-five minutes. Beat the whites of six' eggs to a stiff froth with the sugar, which should be fine w^hite powdered. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla. When the meringue can stand alone, cover the tops of the pies three-quarters of an inch thick, after baking, and set back in the oven and bake for two or three minutes, to a nice, delicate brown. All fruit meringue pies are made in the same way. Pear Pie. Tarte de Poires. 6 Fine Pears. ^ Cup of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. A Plain Paste. Peel and core and slice six fine pears. Put them in a vessel with the sugar and water, and stew. Pre- pare a plain paste, .and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Ap- ple Pie. (See recipe.) Pineapple Pie. Tarte d' Ananas. 1 Fine iPlneapple. % Cup of Sugar. A Plain Pie Paste. Peel and slice into very fine, thin slices one pineapple. Place with the juice in a saucepan with the sugar, •and stew slightly. Prepare a plain pie paste, and proceed in the same manner as for Apple Pie. (See re- cipe.) Plantain Pie. pate de Plantain. 2 Plantains. % Cup of Sugar. A Plain Paste. . Peel, slice ana stew the plantains, and proceed in the same manner as for Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Plantain Meringme Pie. pate de Plantain Mgringue. 2 Plantains. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices. Whites of 3 Eggs. . 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. Peel, slice and stew the plantains, mash through a sieve, and proceed as in recipe for Apple Meringue Pie. (See recipe.) Pnmpkin Pie. Tarte de Citrouille. Use the delicate Cashaw for this pie. Take 1 Pint of Mashed, Stewed Pumpkin. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. i. Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Mace, Cinna- mon and Allspice. Boil a quart of pumpkin, out into 249 dioe-shaped pieces, putting it on with Just enough water to Iceep from burning, say about a quarter of a cupful. Let It stew slowly for an hour, at least, or until tender. Then drain and press through a colander. Add a good tablespoonful of butter and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well; and let It cool. When cool, put the pumpkin, using one pint, into a large bowl, and add the pint of milk, the ground spices, and mix all well together, and add the above amount of sugar, or sugar to taste. Then beat four eggs well and add to the mixture. Add a tablespoonful of brandy, if desired. Line the pie pans, and bake the under crust. Fill with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. When cold, sprinkle lightly with white pow- dered sugar, -and serve. This quan- tity will make three pies. Raspberry Pie. Tarte de Fraraboises. 1 Quart of Berries. 1 Gup of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful Street Spices, Blended Equally. % Cup of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Pick, w^ash and stem the berries; then put them In a porcelain-lined saucepan, and let them stew gently, adding the water and the butter. Season well with a little ground cinnamon, mace and allspice. When done, take oft and allow to cool a little. Make a flaky pie crust (see recipe), and line the tin plates, after greasing slightly with butter, and bake the bottom crust slightly brown. Take out and fill in with the berries, and then cover the top with a thin layer of crust. Decorate the edges, and set in the oven to bake. When a nice, delicate brown, take out and let them cool. Remove from the tin plate by slightly loosening the outer edge with a knife. Turn over into a china plate, sprinkle with white sugar, and serve cold or hot. StraTTberry Pie. Tarte de Fraises. 1 Quart of Berries. 1 Cup of Sugar. '/4 Cup of "Water. X Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful Sweet Spices, Blended Equally. Proceed in exactly the same man- ■ ner as for Raspberry Pie. (See re- cipe.) It might be remarked that all the above fruit pies may be made into meringue pies, the same as the Peach Meringue and Apple Meringue pies. All fruit pies are delightful eaten with a glass of fresh milk or cream. Sweet Potato Custard Pie. Flan de Patates Douoes. 3 Boiled Sweet Potatoes. 3 Egga. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. H Teaspoonful of Cinnamon. The Grated Zest and Juice of an Orange. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Brandy, if Liquor Ja Desired. Wash the potatoes well, and boil them until tender,' but not overdone. Thirty minutes will suffice. When cold, peel and grate them, and then beat together the butter and sugar till light. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten till light, and then beat in the potatoes, stirring first gradually, and then beating lightly and stead- ily. Add the spices and the orange, and brandy, if desired, and then line one deep pan or two small pie pans if preferred, with the pie crust. (See recip^.)' Bake lightly, fill in lightly with -the ' potatoes, and bake in a ,quick Qjsen for a half hour. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and while beating add two table- spoonfuls of white powdered sugar. When the pies are baked, heap the meringue on the top, set back in the oven, and let them bake for two or three minutes only, to a light brown. Vol-au-Vent. 1 Pound- of Flour. 1 Pound of Butter, or Half Butter and Half Lard. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Cup of Ice Water. 1 Egg. Vol-au-vent Paste is always diffi- cult to make, and should never be attempted by inexperienced house- keepers, if they are expecting com- pany. Practice first before essay- ing to make others eat your efforts. Make the Puff Paste as directed .(see 'Puff Paste), and let it stand in a cool place at least Six hours. Roll the paste out very thin, and then line the deep pan in which you intend to cook the chicken or meat. Cut around the edge nicely with a kinfe. Then take another small pan and cover it only half way with, the paste. Cut around the edges, trimming off all strings of dough. Then brush the paste all around the_ top with a beaten egg. Put it on a sheet iron or square tin, and set it on the ice till very cold. Then set it in a very hot oven to bake for about half an hour. Do not let it burn or scorch. When done, fill the inside with chick- en, pigeon or other meat (a-lready fricasseed.) with which you intend to make the Vol-au-Vent and then cov- er with the top crust. Fill around the edges- with strips of paste left over, and piled one over another for about three thicknesses, set in the oven to bake, and serve hot. This is the true Vol-au-vent paste, 250 and chicken, pigeons, small birds, veal or meats may be used for fill- ing-. But the best chicken pie is the old-fashioned one, made by filling the pan with pie crust (see recipe), bak- ing it, and the edges which you have cut around lightly, and then filling In with the chicken and strips of dough between, and covering with a thin cover of the paste, baking brown and serving hot. Oyster Patties. BouchSes d'Huitres. Prepare a puff paste, and proceed in exactly the manner outlined under the chapter on "Oysters." (See Oys- ter Patties.) CHAPTER XXXIV. PUDDINGS. Des Poudings. We have no real French word for pudding. Puddings are essentially English in origin. French chefs in- troduced them into France, retain- ing, with a slight modification of spelling, the expressive name for the dish. The Cieoles adapted the dish to many of the delightful fruits of ILiOuisiana. Puddings may be either boiled or baked. One rule may be given for the baked pudding, and one for the boiled, or more properly, the "roll," and these will be the guides of the intelligent cook. In the boiled pud- dings it is generally necessary to make a dough, using the Plain Paste (see recipe), and then the dough is rolled out, and the raw fruit placed within. The dough is then rolled over and over, so as to form layers first of dough, and then of fruit. Sew up in a clean cloth, and boil till done. Blackberry Roll. Bourrelet aux Mtires. 1 Quart of Blackberries. A Plain Paste, Not Too Flaky. Make a Plain Paste, which should be rather firm, to prevent the berries from escaping. Roll this out to about one and a half feet in length, or one foot, according to the size of the family, and the number of guests. one foot being ample for a family of six. Spread the blackberries, whjch you will have carefully picked, over this paste, and then carefully roll over and over until the entire paste is taken up. Then sew in a clean piece of white muslin, and put into a kettle of boiling water. Let it boil continuously for at least two hours and a half. Then take out, let it cool slightly, rip the cloth which binds it, and serve immediately with a Hard Sauce or Cream or Bran- dy Sauc3. (See recipes Sauces for Puddings, etc.) Peach Rolls, Apple Rolls, Banana;. Strawberry, Raspberry, Cherry and Currant Rolls, and Plantain Rolls, are made in the same manner. Always slice and peel the peaches and stone them; also stone the cherries, and peel and seed the apples. Peel the plantains and bananas and slice very thin before rolling in the -dougti. Some serve the roll cold, but then it is always a little tough, for the boiled dough hairdens easily. A boiled pudding should always be eat- en .hot. The pudding may be boiled in a mold, in which case it should- be well-covered, and the mold first buttered. The fruits may be mixed, in which case excellent results are produced. Boiled Dumplings. :fichaud6s a, I'Anglaise. 8 Large, Fine, Rosy Apples. Sauce. Prepare a Plaiij Paste (SEse recipe), and cut into squares, and put in the center of each a, fine, juicy apple, pared and cored, or a, half apple, pared and cored. Wrap the fruit up in the dough, and place these in small dumpling cloths (the Creoles sometimes do not use cloths), and put them into boiling water, and let them boil for at least an hour. On taking out the apple, if so desired, the' inner core may be filled with some delicate jelly or marmalade. ' Serve with Hard, Cream or Brandy Sauce. (See recipes Sauces for Pud- dings, etc.) Dumplings of other fruits are made in the same way. In making a peach dumpling, cut the peach in half, stone it, put together again, or place the halves each in separate pieces of dough in dumpling cloths. Cut ba- nanas and plantains into quarters. Always dip the pudding and dump- ling cloths first in hot water before sewing up the pudding or dump- lings in them. Dumplings must be served as soon as done. 251 Old-Faahloned Creole Apple Diunpllnss, fichaudfes de Pommes k, I'Ancienne Mode Crfiole. S Large, Fine, Rosy Apples. -1 Large Kitchen Spoonful of Butter. 2 Large Kltcben Spoonfuls ot Sugar. 1 Cup of Seeded Raisins. The Grated Zest of 1 Orange. An old-fashioned Creole apple dumpling, much to the taste of little children, is made by dropping the dumpling into the boiling water without wrapping them in cloths. Af- ter they have boiled an hour, beat one large kitchen spoonful of but- ter and two of sugar to a thick cream, and stir into the water witjh the dumplings. Add one cup of seed- ed raisins, and the grated zest of one orange. Let all boil twenty minutes longer. Put the dumplings into a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve hot or cold. Baked Dumplings. fichaudfis Rotis. 8 Large, Fine, Rosy Apples. Sauce. Prepare a Plain Paste. (See re- cipe.) Cut into squares and proceed to prepare the dumplings in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for Boiled Dumplings (see above recipe), only, instead of boiling the dumplings set in the oven in a baking dish, and bake to a delicate brown. Serve with a Hard, Cream or Brandy Sauce. (See recipes Sauces for Puddings.) Dump- lings of other fruits are made and baked in the same way. Rice Dumplings. :fichaud6s de Riz. % Pound ot Mashed, Cold, Boiled Rice. ^ Dozen Apples. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Egg. Pare the apples and take out the cores. Fill the interiors with sugar and cinnamon. Beat the egg and the rice together, add the flour, and knead to a dough. Cover the apples with a thick coating of rice, and then tie each in a dumpling cloth, and put them in a pot of boiling water. Let them boil for three- quarters of an hour. When done, turn cut carefully on a dish, and serve with a Hard or Cream Sauce. Or the dumplings may be baked in the oven. Roly Poly. Bourrelet. % Pound of Flour. 5 Ounces of Suet. 1 Pint of Fresh Fruit, Jam or Jelly. Vi Teaspoouful of Salt. Cut away all the fibers from the •uet, and then ralnce very fine. Add the flour and salt to it, and mix well together, and gradually add sufficient water to make a dough. Roll it out about half an inch in thickness on a baking board, and then spread over thinly with minced fresh fruits, min- gled, or with fruit Jam or preserves, singly or mingled. Roll it up, and put in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell. Then plunge into boiling water, and let it boil for two hours. Serve with Hard, Cream or Brandy Sauce. An Orange Roly Poly is made by seeding the oranges 'and laying them thinly sliced all over the sheet of dough. Sprinkle lightly with white sugar, and roll up and fasten closely in the pudding cloth. Bqi], for one hour, and eat with Lemoii or Orange Sauce. ■ Peaches and apples and other fruits may be used in niaking these deliglit- ful roly polys. Plum Pudding. Pouding aux Raisins. 1 Pound of Raisins. 1 Pound ot Currants. 14 Pound of Citron. % Pound of Butter. % Pound of Suet. % Pound of Sugar. % Pound of Flour, 6 Eggs. % Pint of llilk. % Cup of Brandy. 1 Grated Nutmeg. ^ Ounce Each of Ground Cloves, Mace, Cin- namon and Allspice. The Grated- Zest of 1 Lemon. The Grated Zest of Half an Orange. Seed the raisins and chop them fine. Seed the currants, after washing and picking over very carefully. Mince the citron, and grate the zest of the orange and lemon. Theh proceed as follows: Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and then beat in the yolks of the eggs, which have been previously beaten to a perfect de- gree of lightness. Then add the flour, beating in by degrees till very light, and the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Add the spices and beat in well. Mince the suet and the fruits very fine and add, and lastly add the brandy, which you will beat thor- oughly into the pudding. When all. is well-mixed, have ready the pud- ding cloth; wet with hot water, and wrung perfectly dry. Dredge it slightly with flour, and wrap the pudding in it. Sew it up, and put . into a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil for six hours. Serve with a Hard or Brandy Sauce. Old-Fashioned Creole Plum Pudding. Pouding aux Raisins 3. I'Ancienne Mode Creole. 2 Pounds ot Beef Suet. IH Pounds of Flour. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Yolks of 8 Eggs. 1 Pound of Raisins. 1 Pound of Currants. Vi Pound ot Citron. 1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 2 Glasses of Brandy 1 Nutmeg. A Pinch ot Cinnamon. A Hard or Brandy Sauce. Chop finely two pounds of beef suet. Take one anda half pounds of 252 flour, mix with auet; add to this one pound of sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, one pound of raisins, stoned and floured; one- pound of currants, one-quarter pound citron, chopped fine; one glass Madeira wine, two glasses brandy, one nutmeg, grated, and a little cinnamon. Beat the whole well together, adding milk till of proper consistency. Wrap in a cloth, previously scalded and floured, leaving room for the pudding to swell; boil six hours, and serve with Brandy or Hard Sauce. Baked Puddings and Dumplings. Des Poudings et des fiohaudfis au Flour. In baked puddings this invariable rule must be observed — the .whites and the yolks of the eggs must be beaten separately, if you would achieve the best results. Custards come under the same class as pud^ dings, in a way, and when baked both should be put into the oven the mo- ment they are made, and baked in- stantly. Once done, they should be taken out, and if to be eaten Hot, should be served at once; if cold, they should be set in a cool, sweet, fresh place. Nothing so absorbs as milk, and when this ingredient en- ters into the composition of any dish if it is to be eaten cold, care should be taken to keep it in a cool, fresh place. ' Appl« Pudding. Poudltig de Pommes. 1 pint of Apples. 3 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. 1 Tablespoonfnl of Butter. Vi TeaspooQful Each of Nutmeg, Mace, All- spice and Cinnamon, Grated. 1 Spoonful of Vanilla Essence. Stew the apples according to re- cipe (see recipe), and while the ap- ples are boiling stir in the butter and the spices. Then take from the fire, and add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat all very light. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff' froth, and beat well into the pudding. Put into a buttered dish, and bake for fifteen minutes in the oven. When nicely browned, grate nutmeg on top, and serve cold, with cream or milk. Apple Meringue Pudding. Ponding MSringug au Pommes. 1 Pint of Apples. 3 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. 1 Tablespoonfnl of Butter. Vi Teaspoonful Each of Nutmeg. Mace, All- spice and Cinnamon, Grated. 1 Spoonful of Vanilla Essence. Stew the apples according to re- cipe (see recipe), and whil'e the' ap- ples are boiling stir in the butter and the spices. Then take from the fire, and add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat all very light, and put into a buttered dish, and bake for fifteen minutes in the oven. ' Then cover with a meringue made with the whites of the eggs, Jhe essence, and the white powdered su- gar, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake to a light brown, and serve cold with fresh milk or cream. Peach Meringue Pudding, Cherry Meringue Pudding,. Pear Meringue Pudding, Orange Meringue Pudding, Blackberry Meringue Pudding and Fig Meringue Pudding are all made in the same way, only the figs must not be overripe when cooked. The same fruits may be made into the plain"puddlvg by following, the . first recipe. All are most excellent, and in their season these fruits are so cheap in our clime that there is no reason why the poorest may not enJoy> these delightful desserts. Banana Pudding. Pouding de Bananes. 6 Bananas. Stale Cake. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar. Cut the stale cake very thin. Peel and slice the bananas. Put a layer of cake at. the bottom of a buttered baking dish. Place over this a layer of the sliced bananas. Pour over this a layer of milk custard, made from the above ingredients, and boiled very thin. (See Custard.) Add another layer of cake, then one of banana and custard, and so continue till you have used up all. Make the top layer of the. custard. Put in an oven, cover with a piece of paperi bake for half an hour, and let the top brown slightly, and serve cold. Bird's Nest Pudding. Pouding au Nid d'Oiseau. 6 Apples. 1 Pint- of, Rich Cream. 2 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. Pare and core the apples, and then put them in the bottom of a but- tered dish. Mix the creanj with the flour until smooth, and add a tea- spoonful of baking powder, which you will have dissolved well in a ta- blespoonful of boiling water. Mix again thoroughly, and pour over the apples. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for one hour. Serve with Hard, Cream or Brandy Sauce. (See re- cipe.) Bread Pudding. Pouding de Pain. Utilize left-over stale bread in this pudding. ' 1 Quart of Stale Bread. 3 Eggs. 1 Cup Raisins. 1% Pints of Mlli. . 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Beat the eggs well, and mix, and then, when very light, add the milk. If you use stale cake, add two table- 253 spoonfuls of sugar; if you use stale bread, add half a cup of sugar. Mix thoroughly. Wet the bread and squeeze.it. Then mix in it a cup of seeded raisins. Bea.t the egg mixture ' thoroughly into this, and place in the oven and bake for an hour. Serve with Hard, Cream, Brandy or Lemon Sauce. (See recipes.) Brown Betty PudcUng, Pouding a, la Muiatresse. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 2 Cups of Chopped Apples. 1 Cup of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Vi, Spoonful Each of Ground Spices. Utilize stale bread crumbs for this pudding. Butter the bottom of a baking pan, and put in a layer of the apples, which you will have stewed nicely. Put over this a layer of bread crumbs, and sprinkle with sugar and dot with butter. Sprinkle lightly with the spices. Continue this till you have used up all the ap- ples. Put a layer of bread crumbs on top. Place in a moderate oven, and bake to a nice-brown. Serve hot, with Cream Sauce or Hard Sauce. Cake or Bread Pnddlng. Pouding de Gateau ou de Pain. 1 Quart of Stale Cake. S Eggs. 1 Cup Raisins. 1% Pints Milk. 1 TeaapoonCnl' of Vanilla. Utilize Jeft-over cake in this pud- ding. Be^t the eggs well, and - mix and then,'- when very light, add the milk. If you use stale cake, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar; if you use stale bread, add half a cup of sugar. Mix thoroughly. Spread the bottom of the pan with the raisins, and then put a layer of cake over them, sliced very thin. Sprinkle this with rais- ins, and continue adding the cake and raisins alternately till all are used. Add a little essence of lemon or va- nilla to the egg mixture, and pour all this over the cake. • Set in the oven and bake for an hour. Serve with Hard or Lemon Sauce. Some .add a little Sherry Wine. That is ac- cording to taste and the methods of the family. Chocolate PuddlQs, Pouding au Choctflat. 3 Ounces of Grated Chocolate. 3 Eggs. 1 Quart of Milk. % Cup of Powdered Sugar. % Cup of Powdered Crackers. % Cup of Butter. 1 Pinch of Salt. Soak the cracker crumbs in wa- ter for a few minutes, to dissolve them, and then squeeze out thorough- ly. Dissolve the chocolate in a littl^e milk, and add the other ingredients. Pour all into a buttered dish, and let bake for twenty minutes. Then take out, and let It cool slightly. Spread over the top a meringue made of one cup of powdered sugar and the whites of three e^gs. Set back in the oven to brown slightly for two minutes, and serve cold. Cottagre Pudding. Pouding de Mfinage. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. 3 Eggs. ' 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1% Cups of Flour. 1 TeaspDouful of Baking Powder. Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, and then add the milk and the flour. Add the whites, beaten to ■a stiff froth. Beat carefully into the -pudding. Add the baking powder, and pour into a buttered pan, and cook in a moderate oven for three- tjuarters of an hour. Serve this pud- ding hot, with Vanilla, Cream or Lemon Sauce. Cocoanut Pudding. Pouding de Coco. 1 Grated Cocoanut. 1 Quart ot Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Cornstarch. Put the milk in a boiler and add the cornstarch as it commences to boil, first moistening the cornstarch with a little water. Stir until very smooth. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten, and, then the sugar. I.iastly, add the whi1;es, beaten to a stiff froth. Then add the grated co- coanut, turn into the baking pan, and bake for half an hour. Serve cold, with I Vanii'la Sauce. . (See re- bipe.) Cream Puddings, Pouding a. la CrSme. 6 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Pint Flour. 1 Pint Milk. 1 Grated Lemon. 1 Pint of Kich Cream. A Pinch of Salt. Mix the sugar and the grated lem- on. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add to the mixture. Then add the flour, well-sifted; beat light, and add one pint of milk and one pint of rich cream. Beat the whites to a stiff froth and add. Bake a half hour in a buttered dish. Serve with Lemon Sauce. (See recipe.) Creole Fig Pudding. Pouding de Figues a, la CrSole. % Pound of Figs. % Pound of 'Grated Bread Crumbs. 1 Teacupful of Milk. 2^ Ounces of Sugar. "3 Ounces of Butter. 2 Eggs. Chop the figs fine, and beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs to a thick cream. Add the melted butter and the bread crumbs, which havd been wet and squeezed thoroughly. Add the milk and the whites of the ■eggs, beaten to a thick froth. Butter a mold and sprinkle with flour. Steam lightly for three hours. Serve with a Hard, Cream or Brandy Sauce. 254 Fig Fu/4 Cup of Sugar. 4 EgBS. 1 Phit of Water. 1 Tumbler of Currant or Strawberry Jelly. "Wash the tapioca well several ■ times, and then soak it well in the pint of water for two hours. Add it to the Jelly, mixing thoroughly, and then add the sugar, and mix again until the tapioca is very clear. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, and add them to the ta- pioca, and turn it into a mold and set away to harden. Make a Vanilla Cream Sauce with the yolks of the eggs, and serve cold with the cus- tard. (See Vanilla Cream Sauce.) Almond Custard. Flan d'Amandes. 1 Pint of New Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Found of Blanched Almonds (scalded). The Yolks of 4 Bgss. , Blanch, the almonds after shell- ing, and cho^ very fine. Blend tlje eggs and sugar, beating thoroughly, , and add to the boiling milk. Then add the almonds. Stir well, set into cups to cool. Place on top a me- ringue made of two tablespoonfuls ' of white powdered sugar and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Set in the oven for a few seconds to brown, and serve cold. , Macaroon Cnstara. Flan de Macarons. 1 Quart of Milk. The Yolks of 6 Eggs. ^ Tablespoonful Bnttor. 3 Tablessoonfuls of Flour. • % Cup of Sugar. 1 Dozen Macaroons. Set the milk to boil. Blend the butter and the flour, and stir into the boiling milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs with half a cup of sugar, very light, and add this to the milk, stirring constantly for one minutes, and take from tne flre to cool. Add . a tablespoonful of orange Juice or extract of orange. When cool, crum- ble one dozen macaroons over the fop of the dish. Moke a meringue . with the whites of tne eggs and two tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Beat to a stiff froth, pile on the custard, and set in the oven for a few minutes to brown. Serve very cold. Rice Custard. Riz au Lalt. See Rice Custard under chapter on Lo.uisiana Rice. Charlotte Russe. 1 Quart of Good Cream. % Cup of Powdered White Sugar. >4 Box of Gelatine. 1 Teaspoontul of Vanlll*. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sherry Wine. ^ Pound of Lady Fingers. Line a glass dish with the lady fingers, or with small slices of cake. Soak the gelatine in cold water, Just covered, for half an hour. Whip the cream, and then dissolve the soaked gelatine with the Sherry Wine. Add the Vanilla Extract. Add the sugar to the cream carefully, and then strain in the gelatine very careful- ly. Stir immediately, and then pour the cream over the lady fingers, and set away to harden. Parisian Charlotte Russe. Charlotte Russe k la Parisienne. % Pound of Stale Lady Fingers. Vi Box of Gelatine. 1 Cup Grated Cocoaont. Vi Pound of Macaroons. 4 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. Soa,k the gelatine in cold water for about half an hour. Put one- half of the cream to one side, and whip the rest. Put the remaining pint to boil, and stir into it the sugar and eggs, beaten together till very light. Stir about one minute, and as it thickens add the gelatine, which you will have dissolved either in a little w^arm water or Sherry Wine. Then add the lady fingers and a teaspoonful of the vanilla; add the macaroons and the grated co- coanut. Turn all this into a bowl or tin basin, place it on ice, and stir continually until it begins to harden. Add the whipped cream, an'd stir all very carefully. When well-mixed, wet a fancy dish of glass or a mold, turn the Charlotte Russe into it, and stand on the ice to harden. Some utilize a stale sponge cake in making Charlotte Russe, cutting out the inside and leaving the sides and bottom about an inch in thickness. The mixture is poured into this cake, and served cold, with sauce. Floating Island. Oeufs a, la Neige. 1 Quart of Milk. 4 Eggs. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. ' 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla. % Cup of Currant Jelly. Put the milk to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar till very light, and stir them into the milk as it begins to boil. Let It thicken one minute Then take from the flre, and add the vanilla and set aglde to cool. Beat 259 the whites of the eggs to a stiff ilroth, and when the mixture is cold pour it into a glass dish, heap on the whites of the eggs, and dot here and there with bits of Currant Jelly. Dust these with powdered sugar, and serve very cold. Some add a table- spoonful of cornstarch to the boil- ing milk, if it is desired to thicken the preparation. But the taste of cornstarch is never as delightful as that of the mixture pure and simple. Apple SnoTV. Neige aux Pommes. 6 Pine Apples. 1 Cup Fine White Sugar. The Whites o£ Six Fresh Creole Eggs. The Juice of One Lemon. Pare and core and cut up the ap- ples, and steam them in two ta- blespoonfuls of water, with a little grated lemon peel, till quite soft. Then press them through a sieve, and add the sugar and the lemon juice. Beat the whites of the- eggs to a very stiff froth, and a'dd two- thirds to the apples, stirring all the the whites, and when the eggs and apples are, very light beat this with a little pdwdered white sugar to form a meringue. Place the apples in custard glasses, heap on the me- ringue, and serve immediately. This preparation may be improved by putting the apples into a dish, heaping on the meringue, and baking for one minute In the oven, and serving very cold. Pineapple Snow. Neige a. I'Ananas. 1 Plnetfpple. The Whites of Four Eggs. 1 Pint of WhlpDed Cream. 14 Cup of Powdered Sugar. Pare the pineapple, and grate it. Beat the whites of ' the eggs until foamy, and then add by degrees the sifted sugar. Add one tablespoonful of Sherry. Stir the whipped cream, which m-ust be very cold from stand- ing on ice, and when all Is very stiff beat in the pineapple, pulp and juice, adding a^ much as the cream and the meringue will hold without becom- ing too soft. Place in glasses, and serve very cold. This is a delight- ful summer dessert. Orange Snow. Neige d'Oranges. 6 Fine Louisiana Oranses. A Snow Cream, as Above. Prepare this dish in exactly the same manner as above. First slice the oranges, and re- moving the seeds, sprinkle sugar over them before adding the snow cream. Lemon Snow may be made in the same manner. Snow Cream. Neige S, la Cr6me. The Whites of Four Eggs. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Teaspoontul of Vanilla. ^ Cup of Powdered Susar. 1 Tahlespoonful of Sherry. "Whip the cream and set on ice. Beat the whites oi the eggs to a fcam, and then add the sifted white sugar, and beat steadily till the mix- ture becomes very stiff and glossy. Add the Sherry and Vanilla. Stir the whipped cream carefully into tlw meringue, and set it in small custard, glasses to get cold. The Creoles often add a tevr blanched almonds. Serve very cold, as a summer des- sert. Strawberries, blackberries, peaches, pears, figs, etc., in their natural state, may all be made into "snows" by following the directions given in Pineapple Snow; only the peaches and pears and figs and bananas must be chopped, and strawberries and other berries must be served whole in the snow. Grated cocoanut may also be served in the same manner. A Creole Summer Puddlns. Pouding d'ifite. 1 Pint of Lemon Jelly. ' 1 Cup of. Stoned Cherries. 1 Cup of Malaga Grapes. 2 Oranges. 2 Bananas. % a Pineapple. 1 Pint of Snow Cream. Make a Lemon Jelly (see recipe),' add stoned cherries, a few Malaga grapes, and the meat of two oranges, two bananas and half a pineapple, sliced. Pour a little jelly into each custard glass. Put a layer first of one fruit, then of another, then a layer of snow cream, and continue alternating till the glass is filled with the snow on top. Serve ice cold. Or the layers may be made in a dish, and when ready to serve pour over a thin custard, made of the yolks of- four eggs and a auart of milk and a half cup of sugar. Serve very cold. Apple Spongre. Soufiie de Pommes. 1 Pound of Apples. 1 Pound Sugar. 3 Eggs. % Box of Gelatine. The Grated Zest of a Lemon. % Pint of Boiling Water. Boll the sugar and water, and when very clear skim the surface. Have the apples pared and cored and sliced nicely, and place them in the syrup. Let them stew until very tender. Then add the gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water, to the mixture, and when well done press all through a sieve. Then add the rind and juice of the lemons. 260 using only the zest of the rind in grating the lemon. Stir until it be- gins to cool and thicken. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, stirring and beating until cool and thick. Use the yolks for a "Vanilla Sauce (see recipe), and turn the Apple Sponge in a dish and serve with the sauce poured over it. Peach Sponge is made in the same way. Strawberry Spongre, Souffle de Fraises. % Pint of Strawberries. % Cup of Sugar. 4 Esgs. 1 Pint of Boiling Water. Stew the strawberries gently, and press them through a sieve. Soak the gelatine in a cup of cold water for an hour, and then dissolve with a tablespoonful of sherry wine. Pour it into the boiling v^iater, and let it dissolve well. Add the sugar, and let it thicken gently. Then strain, and add the strawberries, an set It upon ice to cool. Occasionally stir to prevent the fruit from settling at the bottom. Beat the whites of the egars to a stiff froth, and add them to the sponge, beating stead- ily till very, smooth. Set in a fancy bowl to harden, and serve witli, < Vanilla Sauce poured over it. (See Vanilla Sauce.) Blackberry SpCTiige, Leriion Sponge, Orange, Raspberry. Currant and Fig and Pineapple Sponge are made in the same way. Apple Saj^o. Pommes au Sagou. 1 Cup of- Sago. 8 Large Apples. 1 Quart of Boiling Wafer. Sweetened Cream. Soak the Sago for half an hour in cold water, and then put it in a farina boiler and add one quart of ■boiling water. Pare the apples, and add to the Sago, and let all boil to- gether till very tender. Sweeten to taste. Then bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and serve with cream. Tapioca may be used instead of the Sago, and you will then have Apple Tapioca. Cherry, Orange, Peach and other fruit tapiocas and sagoes are made In the same way. AMBROSIA. Ambrolsie. 1 Dozen Sweet Louisiana Oranjes. 1 Cup of White Sugar. 1 Cocoanut. Grate the cocoanut after paring. Then peel and slice the oranges, taking out the seeds. Have a nice large glass dish. Put first a layer of oranses in the dish, sprinkle with sugar, and then a layer of cocoa- nut, till all the oranges and cocoa- nut are used, the layer of cocoanut being the last. Sprinkle with pow- dered white sugar, and let it stand about two hours before serving. This is a famous Creole dessert. Pineapple and Orange Ambrosia. Ambroisie d'Ananas et d'Orangea. 1 Large, Kipe Pineapple. 6 Oranges. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Glass of Slierry or Wliite Wine. Slice one large, ripe pineapple and six oranges. Put in a glass bowl one layer of oranges, sprinkle pul- verized sugar over them; then one layer of pineapples, also sprinklea with sugar and continue till all the fruit is used. Pour a wineglassful of Sherry or White Wine over the top. Let it stand about two hours before serving. This is a typical Creole dessert. Minute Cake. Tot Fait. 6 Eggs. 5 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 3 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls Mills. The Juice and Rind of a Lemon. Beat the yolks of the eggs to & cream, and then add the sugar, beat- ing thoroughly till very, very light. Then blend the flour and milk until smooth, and add. Add the juice of the lemon and the grated zest, ancl beat well again. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a, thick froth, turn into a buttered dish and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. Strawberry Sbort Cake. pate Brisfie aux Fraises. ^ Pound of Sifted Flour. % Pound of Sugar, 2 Quarts of Strawberries. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baiting Powder. 6 Kggs. 1 Quart of Cream. % Pound of Powdered Sugar. Stem the strawberries. Sweeten to taste, and slightly mash. Then set them aside. Blend the sugar and butter together until very smooth, arid add the baking powder, and blend well. Add the salt. Then add the eggs, breaking them in whole, one at a time, and beat all well for ten minutes. Add the grated zest of half a lemon; by degrees add the flour, and mix a:il together very gently. Divide into two parts; put one into well-buttered baking tins and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. When done, remove the cakes and allow them to cool. Detach the cakes ■ from the tins by passing St knife gently around.' Have a des- sert dish ready and lay one of the cakes upon It. Spread two table- spoonfuls of whipped cream oyer, and then cover liberally with straw- 261 berries. Cover with another cake and spread as before with cream and then with strawberries. Lay the other calce on tOD and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve with "Whipped Cream a. la Vanille" (see recipe), or with rich cream or milk. Peach Short Cake, Kaspberry Short Cake and Blackberry Short Cake are made in the same way. CRBAItlS. Des Crimes. General Directions for Making Cream Uesserts. In making creams for desserts, one unfailing rule must be observed. In making a. cream to serve six or eight persons, use either a half box of prepared gelatine, or half a pint of home-made gelatine. The latter if properly made, is always the best, aa well as the most economical. The gelatine must be soaked for about half an hour before using in water Just sufficient to cover. This is for the purpose of softening it. Or it may be moistened with a little Sher- ry or Madeira wine. This is accord- ing to the taste and the usages of the family. The cream must always be whipped, the yolks of the eggs must be beaten separately from the whites,- and the whites of the eggs must be beaten to a stiff froth. In using flavoring extracts, select, ac- cording to taste. Essence of Vanilla, Lemon, Pineapple, Almonds, Aro- matic Hoses, Orange Flower Water, etc. Calfa Foot Jelly or Gelatine. ' GelSe de Pieds de Veau. 4 Calf's Feet, 5 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Pint of White Wine or Sherry. Juice of 2 Lemons. Juice of 2 Oranges. % of the Zest of a Lemon, Grated. The Whites and the Crushed Shells of Two ESBS. 1 Pound of White Sugar. 2 Teaspoonfuls of &rated Nutmeg. 1 Stick of Grated Cinnamon. Wash the. feet welL scrubbing them thoroughly, in cold water. Then put them into a kettle to boil with the five quarts of cold water given above. Let them simmer slow- ly for at least seven or eight hours, tin the liquor Is reduced one-half. Then strain the liquid into an earth- en bowl, and set it away for at least twelve hours, or over night. Then skim carefully every particle of fat from the surface, and remove all sediment or dregs from the jelly. Put it into a porcelain-lined kettle, and set over the fire., and let it melt slowly. Add the whites of the eggs, well beaten to a froth, and the crushed shells, the ground cin- namon, the nutmeg, the sugar and lemon and orange juice, and the zest of the lemon. Mix all these ingred- ients thoroughly, and let the jelly boil hard, without stirring again, for twenty minlites. Then add half a cup of water, and let it come again to a boil. Set it back on the stove, where it cannot boil, and keep it closely covered for half an hour. Have ready a flannel bag, and dip it into boiling water. Hang it up with a bowl underneath, and pour the jelly into the bag, suspending the bag from the end of a thick, short pole, where it can drip easily. Tie the end of the bag, and let the jelly drip freely. On no account squeeze or touch it, if you wish to have an unclouded jelly. Then the drip- pings into a bowl or mold, add the wine, and set to cool in a cool place. You will then have the genu- ine Calf's Foot Jelly, an will know that it has not been made of the horns and hoofs of animals, etc. "Whipped Cream. CrSme Fouettfie. 1 Pint of Sweet Cream. 2 TaWespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. 6 Drops of Jamaica Rum. In whippmg cream remember that the first great essential is to have good cream, and that the great se- cret of whipping depends upon the right, steady stroke. Always set the cream on ice for several hours before using. Then sweeten it to taste, and add a few drops of Ja- maica rum. Have ready a second bowl, beat the cream, or, rather, whip it, as you would in beating eggs to a froth, with clear, steady strokes, using an egg beater, or, if you have a small crank churn, which is better, use it, pressing the dasher up and dowp yery hard, and remov- ing the ci'eam as it rises around the dashboard. In the same way remove the cream as it rises, while beating with the egg beater, putting the whipped portion into the second bowl, and continuing the process of whipping until all the cream is drained. Set on ice, and it will keep cool, fresh and sweet and firm. The above process is intended when the cream is to be used as a garnish for desserts. Any essence may be used, insteard of the rum. When whipping cream for coffee, or when you desire the plain whipped cream, do not use sugar or essence, but simply proceed to whip tho cream as directed above. Good, rich milk may be whipped into the dream. Having given the above explicit directions, it will be easy for even the veriest amateur to make any of the fo'llowing delightful Creole cream desserts: 262 Whipped Cream and Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, etc. Crfime FouettSe aux Praises ou aux Frarnboises Ou aux Mflres, etc. 1 Pint of Berries. 1 Pint of Wliipped Cream. 1 Cup of Susar. Stem the berries, sprinkle nicely with white sugar, and set aside for several haurs in a cool claee. Serve v/ith ths whipped cream, dishing; the berries first in serving, and heaping the cream prettily on top. Whipped Cream With Peaches, Cherries, etc. CrSme Fouettge aux Peches, aux Ce- rises, etc. 1 Pint of Fruit, Peaclies, or Cherries, or Bananas, - or Pears, etc, 1 Pint of Whipped Gream. 1 Cup of Suzar, Stone the peaches, and slice or cut them nicely, adding sugar to taste. In like manner stone, but do not cut, the cherries if this fruit Is used. If bananas or pears are pre- ferred peel and slice nicely. Seed the pears. Sprinkle, the fruit with Eugar, an set it aside in a cool place for two hours; and serve with the whipped cream, heaping it in generous measure at the. moment of serving. All fruits that may be eaten with cream are prepared in the same manner. W^hlpped Cream With lilquors. CrSme FouettSe aux Liqueurs. % Gill of Liqueur. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. It is simply necessary Just before whipping the cream, to add a few drops of the liQueur with which you wish to flavor the cream. Whipped Cream With Vanilla, etc. Cr6me Fouettge a, la Vanille, etc. 1 Pint of Cream. 2 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. 1 Teasnoonful of Vanilla Extract. Put a pint of sweet cream into a basin, add the sugar and the es- sence and proceed to whip according to the directions given In "Whipped Cream" (see recipe.) Always re- member to add the essence before whipping the cream. This Is the un- varying rule to be observed when- ever you wish to flavor with any ex- tract. Foamy Cream. CrSme en Mousse. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 1 GUI of any Liqueur Desired. Procefed exactly as in the above recipe, using a gill of any liquor de- sired. Foamy Cream W^lth Rum. Cr6me en Mousse au Rhum. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 1 Gill of Rum. 2 Ounces of Powdered Susar. Whip a pint of fresh sweet cream, adding a gill of rum and whipping till it reaches a- stiff froth. Then transfer to a china bowl and set on ice till ready to use. Have a des- sert dish ice cold when ready to serve and drop the cream into this spoon by spoon, with greatest caro so that it will not fall, and pile up high in a pretty pyramid shape and serve immediately. Whipped Cream With Klrsch, CrSme fe'ouettSe au Kirsoh. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 1 Gill of Klrsch Prepare the cream exactly as in above recipe, only, instead of the rum, substitute a gill of Kirsch. Whipped Cream With Maraschino. Cr6me Fouettfie au Maraschino. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 1 Gill of Mara- schino, Prepare exactly as in the direction for CrSme en Mousse with Rum, sub- stituting a gill of Maraschino in- stead of the Rum. Whipped Cream W^Ith Cognac. Crfime FouettSe au Cognac. 1 Pint of Cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Pow- dered Sugar. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as in the directions for Whipped Cream with Rum. substituting in- stead a gill of good old Cognac. Serve in the same manner directed. Whipped Cream W^lth Cnracoa. CrSme Fouettfie au Curaooa. 1 Pint of Cream. 2 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. 1 Gill of Curacoa. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as in the directions for Whipped Cream with Rum, adding, instead of the Rum, one gill of Curacoa. MOilpped Cream With Coflee, CrSme Fouettfie au CafS. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 2 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. 3 Ounces of Extract of Coffee. Make three ounces of Crfiole CafS Noir. (See recipe.) Take three ta- blespoonfuls and add to the cream and sugar. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as in Whipped Cream with Vanilla. When ready to serve, heap the cream in the cen- ter of a very cold dish, using artistic taste, and serve immediately. 263 liteht Crcuin. CrSme LSsSre. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Cream. 4 or 5 Tablespoonfuls of Powderea White White Sugar. 2 Fresh Egas. 1 Tablespoon'ful of Orange Flower Water, To one pint of milk add tlie same quantity of cream, and four or five tablespoonfuls of powdered wliite sugar. Let it boil till reduced to one-half tlie quantity. Take off tlie stove, and whip in the whites of two fresh Creole eggs, and, when it ig as white as snow, add a half pint of whipped cream. Place upon the fire, and let it simmer gently, stir- ring continually.' Add a tablespoon- ful- of orange flower water, or other essence, fake off, let it cool, and serve when cold. Sweet Almond Cream. Crdme d^Amandes Douoes. 6 Nice AlmoDte. 1 Quart of Milk. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 4 Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. Take six nice almonds and shell them. Then blanch them by throw- ing into boiling water, and letting them stand on the back of the stove for five minutes. Then throw into cold water, and take out the inner skins by rubbing them together with the hands. Whip in one quart of milk, the whites of two eggs, and four ounces of powdered sugar. Let the milk boil slowly on the fire till it is reduced one-half, and then add the almonds, which you will have chopped fine, and add a tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water, and let the mixture boil for three minutes , longer. Set it to cool. Then gar- nish with almonds that have been passed in Caramel or melted sugar and allowed to cool. Bnrat cream. Cr&me au Caramel. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Cream. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. 1 Teaapoonful of Carainel. Boil one pint of milk and one pint of cream together. Add four ounces of powdered white sugar and the yolks^ of three eggs, nicely beaten together till very light. Add one teaspoonful of Caramel (see recipe), let it reduce one-half, strain, gar- nish nicely with any fruits, and serve cold. Creamed Coffee. CrSme au Caf§.. 2 Ounces of Finely Ground Coffee. 1 Pint of Milk. % Pint of Cream. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The yolks of 3 EzBS. Boil two ounces of finely ground and powdered coffee in one pint of milk. Add one-half pint of cream as it begins to boil. Then add the yolks of three eggs, which have been well beaten with four ounces of powered sugar. Let it reduce one- half, take ore and strain till clear, let it cool and serve. White Coffee Cream. CrSnie Blanche au Caf§. 2 Ounces of Coffee. 1 Pint ot Milk. ^ Pint of Cream. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The Yolks of 3 Ezgs. To make a "CrSme Blanche au Cafe," par oh two ounces of .coffee. and throw the grains, .while hot, into the boiling milk. Then proceed exactly as above. These are famous old-time Creole - reoir.es. Cliocolate Cream. CrSme au Chocolat. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Crea'B). Yolks of 3 Eggs. 4 Ounces of Sugar. 2 Ounces of Grated Chocolate. Boil one pint of milk and one pint of cream. Add, while boiling, threa yolks of eggs, l>eateiL well with four ounces of sugar. Stir constantly, and let it reduce one-half. Add two ounces of grated chocolate. Let it boil three or four minutes, take off. di'd serve when very cold. Macaroon Cieam. CrSme au Macarons. 6 Macaroons. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water. % a White Praline. 2 Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. The Yolks of 4 Fresh Esgs. Crumble six ma«arcons fa, maca- roon is a small cake, made of al- monds and sugar — see recipe), soak them in a pint of milk; add one ta- blespoonful of Orange Flower Water, in which you have put one-half of a mashed Praline (see recipe Pra- lines), and add two ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four fresh Creolo esrgs, well beaten till light. Set on the stove and let it simmer constant- ly till reduced almost one-half. Let it cool, and serve in the glass in which it was cooled. Chestnut Cream. CrSme de Marrons. 2 Dozen Chestnuts. Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Pint ot Cream. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. Shell the chestnuts and blanch them, and pound sufficient quantity to make two ounces reduced to floi".r. Or roast two- dozen chestnuts and peel them (which Is far bet- 264 ter), and pound tliem till very fine, and blend with a little milk till you have a thick paste. Add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and two tabljspoonfuls ot the best but- ter. Beat well, and add four ounces of powdered white sugar. Beat all this very light, and put into one pint of boiling milk, or half milk and half cream. Let it boil for about ten minutes, and then take off, strain, decorate in a glass dish, and serve cold. This is tlie true Creole CrSme de Marrons. Peanut Cr-^aiu. CrSme aux Pistaches. 4 Ounces of Fresh Peanuts. The Zest of 1 Lemon. 1 Gill ot Water. hi Pint each of Milk and Cream. 1% Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. 1 Ounce ot Gelatine. Peel four ounces of fresh peanuts, and pound them into a flour. The Ciuantity must equal four ounces shelled. Add the grated zest of a lemon, and a little water, sufKciunt to make all into n. thick paste. Boil equal quantities of milk and cream to equal a pint and a half, and add an ounce and a half of white pow- dered sugar. Let it cool, and add a piece of gelatine, blended with one siioon of water. Mix wvU. and then strain through a siev.i^. Put the cream back on the fire to heat, and add the pe.anuts. Let nil come to a good boil, take off and set it to ccol in a cool place, and serve cola. Snow Cream. Cr6me a, la Neige. * 1 Pint of Fresh, Sweet Cream. 8 Tablespoontuls of White Powdered Sugar. The Whites of 2 Esss. 1 Coffespoon of - Orangre™ Flower Water. Add to one pint of fine, fresh, sweet cream, eight tablespoonfuls of v/hite powdered sugar, the whitD.^ of tvo o'.'c-s, well beaten to a froth, one oolTi espoontul of Orange Fl wer M'ater, and whip all togethor stead- ily till the cream rises, taking it out as it does, and puttinjr in another bowl, as in "CrSme Pouettfie" (see ^.ecipe), till all is drained. Place it In a little basket, lined with a fir.e ^inen napkin, and serve as quickly as rr ssible. jj r^e cream may be varied bv col- i ng it with a little Siili n Powder ' make It yellow, with carmine or jchineal to make It pink and rosy, jnly, when doing this, add a little aromatic essence, such as vanilla, lemon or pineapple. All the above ereams may be served with plain or whipped cream. Bavarian Creams. Bavarolse. 1 Quart of Cream. V5 Pint of Gelatine, or hi Box. 1 Gill of Cold Water. ^ Cup of Sugar. The Yolks of 4 Egea. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla or Bum. First of all, in making all Bavar- ian' icreams, follow implicitly the general directions given for making Cream Desserts, viz: Soaking t'ae gelatine, and, before whipping the cream, cool it for at least an hour en tfie Ice. Then put one pint of fresh cream or milk in a farina boil- er, and add the sugar, and bring it to a boil. As it boils, ijou-- in thj gelatine. Stir constantly till the latter is well dlissolved and blended, and set aside to cool. Beat the yolks of .the eggs to a cream, am s|ir them in the cold cream, blending and beating vigorously. Then add the .Vanilla or Rum, and set it away on the ice. When the boiled cream la quite cold, andl has begun to thicken, ' stir it till perfectly smooth, and then stir in the whipped cream with a few light strokes. Have ready the mold or freezer, well rinsed, and flU v,rith the cream. Set it away to cool and when quite firm turn it out, and serve with plain cieam or whipped ci-eam. Apricot Bavarian Cream. Crfime Bavarolse aux Abricots. 1 Pint ot Fresh Apricots or 1 Pint Can. % Boi of Gelatine, or % Pint 1 Pint of Cold Water. 1 Pint of Cream. Soak the gelatine and whip the cream. If the apricots are fresh, stew them and sweeten to taste. If canned, press them through a colander or sieve. Proceed to add the gelatine, which has been dissolved in a little boiling water, and then turn into a bowl. Stand upon crackefl' ice, and stir constantly till it begips to thicken, and then add the whipped cream stirring constantly till mixed well. Turn into a mold to harden and serve with whipped cream. Peach or Plum Bavarian Cream may be made in exactly the same manner as the above, using eight or nine fresh peaches, stoned, or a one- pint can of fresh ones. Use one pint of plums. Strawberry Bavarian Cream. Cr6me Bavaroise aux Fraises. 1 Quart of Fresh, Stemmed Strawberrie* H Box of Gelatine, or J^ Pint. 1 Pint ot Cream. 1 Cup ot Sugar. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Water. Soak the gelatine, and prepare the whipped cream. Then mash the strawberries and pres them through a sieve. Add the white powdered su- gar. Melt the gelatine by standing £65 over boiling water, and then add it to the strawberry juice. Mix thor- oughly. Then turn it into a tin pan or mold, set the basin on a pan of cracked ice, stir constantly till it begins to thicken, and then add the whipped cream, stiring it gradually till all is thoroughly mixed. Then pour into a mold and stand in an ice-cold place to harden. Raspberry Bavarian Cream. Cr&me Bavaroise aux Fraraboises. 1 Pint of Raspl)erry Juice. 1 Pint ol Cveam. y^ Cup ot Sugar 14 Pint of Gelatine. P'roceed in exactly the same man- ner as for Strawberry Bavarian Cream. Pineapple Bavarian Cream. CrSme Bavaroise 3. I'Ananas. 1 Pint of Gratea Pineapple. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Cup of Sugar. %Pint of Gelatine. % Cup of Cold Water. Cover the gelatine with the water, and let it soak for half an hour. Then stand it over boiling water, and let it melt. Grate the pineapple, and add the sugar, and let it simmer gently till reduced to a liquid. Then stir the gelatine into the pineapple, and dissolve thoroughly. Place it in a tin vessel, and stand over cracked ice, stiring constantly. When it be- gins to thicken, add the whipped cream, and set away to harden, after turning into a mold. Serve with whipped cream. Lemon Bavarian Cream is made in the same maner. Coffee Bavarian Cream. Cr6me Bavaroise au CafS. 1 Strong Cup of Cafe Nolr. (See Recipe). 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. % Pint ot Gelatine. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Water. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. The Yolks ot 4 Eggs. Soak the gelatine and whip the cream. After half an hour, pour it into the boiling coffee, and dis- solve thoroughly. Then add the su- gar, and stir thoroughly. Then add the milk. Let it boil up once, and remove from the fire, and stir in the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Stir steadily and carefully until all the ingredients have thoroughly blended. Then set it on the fire to thicken slightly, stirring all the time, but be careful not to let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. Then set aside to cool slightly; pour it into a basin, and set over cracked ice, and add the whipped cream as it thickens. Then turn into a mold, and set in a cool place to harden. Serve with whipped cream. Caramel Bavarian Cream. Cr^me Bavaroise au Caramel. 14 Pint of Gelatine. 1 Cup ot Sugar. V4 Cup of Water. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 1 Gill of Sherry Wine. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Caramel. Proceed exactly as above, using the same ingredients, except the eggs and cottee, substituting instead of the coffee, a gill of the best Sherry Wine and two tablespoonfuls of Caramel. (See recipe.) Clioeolate Bnvarian Cream. CrSme Bavaroise au Chocolat. 2 Large Tablespoonfuls of Chocolate. 1 Pint Milk. 1 Pint Cream, i^ Cup Sugar. % Pint ot Gelatine. Yolks of 4 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla or Rum. 2 Ounces of Best French Chocolate. Prepare the gelatine and cream ac- cording to general directions. (See recipe.) Grate the chocolate and set the milk to boil. Then add the grat- ed chocolate, stirring slowly until all is dissolved. Take the saucepan from the fire, and add the sugar, mix- ing well, and the vanilla and rum. Turn it into a tin vessel to cool; set the vessel over cracked ice, and stir constantly till it begins to thicken. Then stir the whipped cream in care- fully, and pour the mixture into a mold, and set in a cool place to harden. . Serve with whipped cream. Orange Bavarian Cream. Cr&me Bavaroise a. I'Orange. 6 Louisiana Oranges. The Yolks of 5 Eggs. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar, y^ Bos; Gelatine, or y^ Pint. Whip the cream and prepare the gelatine according to general direc- tions. (See recipe Bavarian Cream.) Set the milk to boil, and when it be- gins to boil, add the gelatine. Beat the yolks of the eggs very light, and add the sugar, beating very light; strain the milk and gelatine, and add the sugar and yolks stirring constantly till well mixed. SetgQver the fire for two minutes, and Jpen set, it away to cool. When coldjjptir . in the orange juice, which you^.;Br'ill strain through a sieve. Set tHe*ba-^'' sin in a pan of cracked ice, an? stir until it begins to thicken, and' ' rhen -' stir in the whipped cream very 're- '^ fully, and proceed to turn inii a mold to harden. Always wet the mold first with cold water before turning in the cream. When cold, serve with whipped cream. 266 Velvet Crenm. Cr6rae Veloutfi. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Pint of Milk. 6 Ounces of Suffar. Juice of 1 Lemon. 3 Tablespoonfuls Mills. % Pint of Gelatine. Soak the gelatine in the Tvater, and let it dissolve well. Set the milk to boil, and add the powdered sugar. Then dissolve the gelatine in It. Take off the fire, and add, as it cools, esence of vanilla or orange, using about two tablespoonfuls. Mix well. Then add the whipped cream, set over the flre one minute, pour in- to a mold to harden, and serve cold. Wine Cream. Crime au Vin. The Yolks of 8 Eggs. 1 Cup Sugar. 1 Quart of "Madeira or Sherry Wine. Beat the sugar and eggs well to- gether, and add gradually one quart of Madeira or Sherry Wine, flavored •with lemon or vanilla. Set the ves- sel in which they were mixed in another containing boiling water. Let the mixture simmer- until the cream Is perfectly formed, and then sgt to cool. Serve with whipped cream. > Spanish Cream. Crime k VEspagnole. 1 Quart of Milk. The Tolks of 5 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Pint of Gelatine. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Soak the gelatine and whip one pint of cream. Set the milk to boil, and add the gelatine, which you will have dissolved in two tablespoon- fuls of milk. Have the eggs and sugar beaten very light, and, as the milk boils up, add the sugar and eggs, but do not let them boil, or the eggs will curdle. Stir well, and turn the gelatine, which you will have dissolved well, into the milk. Then remove from the fire and strain, and add the essence of vanilla. Have the niold ready, clean and well rinsed and turn the cream into it. Set it on ice to harden, and. when ready, to serve, make a cream by whipping the whites of the eggs into the cream which has been whipped with pow- dered sugar. Turn the cream into a dish, heap this delicious meringue cream over it. and serve very cold. Italian cream Is made in exactly the same manner as above, only a wineglas^ful of Brandy is added. CHAPTER XXXVI. PUDDING SAUCES. Sauces de Poudings. Apple Sauce. Sauce aux Pommes. 6 Apples. 1 Pint of Coia Water. ^ of a Lemon, % Pound of Powdered White Sugar. A Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. 1 Gill of Brandy. Peel and quarter and seed the apples, and put them into a sauce- pan, with a pint of cold water and a quarter of a lemon. Let them boil for half an hour. Then press the cooked apples through a sieve into a bowl, and add the powdered sugar and the cinnamon and brandy. Set back on the stove and let the juice boil for five minutes, and serve with apple puddings, baked apples, dump- lings, etc. Apricot Snnce. Sauce d'Abricots. 4 Ounces of Apricot Marmalade. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 GUI of Water. 1 Gill of Brandy. Take four ounces of Apricot Marmalade (see recipe) and put into a saucepan; add the butter and wa- ter, and set on a brisk fire; stir con- stantly until it comes to a boil, and then add a gill of good brandy. Let the mixture cook for two minutes more, and serve with baked apple^ dumplings, boiled dumplings, or ap- ple pudding, as desired. Brandy Sauce. Sauce au Cognac. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar. Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Gill of Brandy. 1 Gill of Boiling Water. Beat the butter and sugar together to a cream, and add the sugar, beat- ing until light and very white; add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, putting in one at a time; whip these well together, and add the boiling water and the brandy. Set over the fire in a bain-marie (boiling water) and stir till creamy and no longer. Serve either hot or cold. Do not let it boil. This sauce 267 Is excellent with Blackberry Roll, Bread Puddings, etc. When a loaf of stale 'Bread Is left over, it may be wet and squeezed; add the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, and a pint of seeded rais- ins; mix well, and set to bake in the oven. Serve with tlie sauce above. This makes a very excellent and economical pudding. Hard Brandy Sauce. Sauce Dure au Cognac. 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar. ^ Cup of Butter. 1 Wlneglassful of Brandy. 14 Teaspoonfui of Ground Cinnamon. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the brandy and tlie pow- dered cinnamon and serve cold. Caramel Sauce. Sauce au Caramel. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. 1 Tablespoonfnl of Sherry. 2 Ground Cloves. 1 Stick of Cinnamon. Grated Zest of li Lemon. Put the sugar in a saucepan and let it melt and brown to a golden yellow; add the water and the wine, or essence and spices, etc., and set to cool after it has boiled three min- utes. Cliaufausen Sauce. Sauce Chaufausen. 1 Pint of Chaufausen Wine. 1 Pint of Cold Water. 3 TaWespoonfuls of Powdered White Sugar. 6 Cloves. The Zest of 1 Lemon. 1 Inch of Cinnamon. 1 Ounce of Cornstarch. •Put the sugar, cinnamon, zest of lemon, cloves and water into a sauce- pan and set on a good fire and let them come to a boil, which will be in about five minutes. Then add tlie cornstarch diluted in a tablespoon- fnl of cold water and stir it briskly into the water. After three minutes of stirring add one pint of Chau- fausen wine, let it cook for two minutes longer and then take off the fire, drain through a sieve and serve with puddings, especially Apple Pud- ding. Cream Sauce. Sauce a la CrSme. 1 Pint of Sweet, Freslf Cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. 1 Nutmeg, Grated. 1 Tea'apoonful of Vanilla, or Sherry or Ma- deira. Add the sugar essence or wine to the cream; then stir constantly till thoroughly dissolved. Beat vigorous- ly, and then add the nutmeg and set to cool. Serve with stewed apples and other stewed fruits, or fruit puddings. Cream of Butter Sauce. Sauce a. la CrSme de Beurre. % Cup of Butter. % Cup of Powdered White Sugar. i Tablespoonfnls of Milk or Cream. The Juice and Bind of a Lemon. Beat the butter and sugar to a thick cream, and add the milk or cream gradually. Then place the mixture in a bowl and stand in a small tin of boiling water (bain- marie) and stir slowly till the sauce is very creamy, but do not allow it to simmer or boil. It will take just three or four minutes. As the thick cream forms, take from the fire, add the lemon and serve with any pudding. Cream of Vanilla Sauce. Sauce a, la Cr6me de Vanille. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White Sugar. The Yolks of 3 Eigs. 1 Tablespoonfnl of Vanilla Essence. % Gill of Maraschino or Good Cognac. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar well together, and add the vanilla essence. Beat thoroughly. Boil the milk and add the beaten egg to the milk as it comes to a boil. Stir briskly till it comes to a boil once more. Then take from the fire and add the maraschino or brandy according to taste. Custnrdi Sauce, Sauce Duchesse. 1 Pint of Milk, % Cup of Powdered Sugar. 3 Egga. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Set the milk to boil. Beat the eggs and sugar to a thick cream and very light, and then stir them in- to the boiling milk. Stir over the lire till the sauce begins to thicken, and no longer. If you stir too long the sauce will curdle. Take it from the fire and add the Vanilla ana serve cold. Foamins Sai:ce, Sauce a la Neige. The Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Gill of Boiling Water. 1 Glass of Sherry Wine or a Tablespoonful of Vanilla. . Beat the- whites of the eggs to a stiff frpth; melt the sugar in the boiling water, and then add a wine- glass of Sherry. Stir in the frothy whites, and set to cool. Fruit Sauce. Sauce aux Fruits. 4 Peaches, Apples, Apricots or Pears. 1 Cup Sugar. 'A Cup Water. 1 Pint of Cream. Whites of 2 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Brandy. Pare the fruit; take out the stones or core; slice and put into a sauce- 268 pan with the water and sugar, and- let it stew gently until very tender. Then press through a colander or sieve. Set the cream to boil, and then beat it into the fruit thorough- ly. Take off the fire, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, set to cool, and serve with fruit puddings made of the same fruits. Golden Snuce, Sauce d'Or. The Tolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of 1 Lemon. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Gill of Brandy or Sherry. Beat the eggs and sugar until creamy. Set the saucepan in a ket- tle of boiling water over the Are: add the eggs that have been beaten well with the brandy or sherry; stir until the sauce becomes a tnick cream; then take from the flre, add the juice of a lemon and serve very hot. Hard Sauce. Sauce a, la Cr&me Dure. Vi Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Powdered White Sugar. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream and gradually add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth; add the flavoring and heap on a small butter dish, sprinkle with grat- ed nutmeg and serve cold. Hard Sauce A la Creole. Sauce Creole. % Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar. Beat the sugar and butter to a rich cream, add a teaspoonful of va- nilla, or a tablespoonful of good brandy, and serve cold. This Is a very excellent sauce for baked dump- lings, etc. Kirsch Sauce. Sauce au Kirsch. % Gill of Kirseh. I Pint of Cold Water. % Pound of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. Mix the sugar and water in a saucepan and set on the stove on a brisk flre; let it come to a boil; then add a tablespoonful of cornstarch which has been diluted in a table- spoonful of water. Stir well for three minutes, and then take from the fire and add immediately a half gill of Kirsch. Mix well, strain through a sieve and serve with pud- dings. Lemon Sauce. Sauce au Citron. 1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Pint of Boiling Water. ^ Cup of Sugar. 1 Egg. The Juice and Grated Zest of a Lemon. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the well-beaten egg, and then add the cornstarch, which you will have dissolved in a teaspoonful of water. When well-blended pour in slowly the boiling water, stirring all the time, and set over the fire till it thickens; stir about three minutes. Take from the flre and add the juice and rind of a, grated lemon. This sauce is much improved by adding tTie white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, after you have taken it from the fire. Madeira Sauce. Sauce au Vin de MadSre. 2 Cups of Sugar. ^ Grated Nutmeg. Vi Cup of Butter, y^ Cup of Boiling Water. 2 Wineglasses of Madeira, Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream, using powdered sugar, and then add one cup of boiling water. Stir in gradually two wineglasses of good Madeira wine or Sherry, and add one teaspoonful of grated nut- meg. Put into a double boiler and stir until the sauce is hot, but do not let it boil. Serve, either hot or cold, with any pudding. Madeira Sabayon Sauce. ^a,uce Sabayon au MadSre. i The Yolks of 4 Elggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White fiugfl'. 2 Gills of Madeira Wine. The Zest of Half a Lemon. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar well together, and when they come to a rich cream set on the stove an'd whip well for two min- i u-ts's'. Then add the zest of a lemon : o£ one tablespoonful of a lemon, or ! one tablespoonful of lemon essence, and drop in gradually the Madeira wine. Stir without ceasing for two minutes more, and then serve very hot with Fruit, Bread Puddings, etc. Orange Sauce, Sauce d'Orange. 1 Cup of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Bufier. 14 Cu3 of Water. The Juice and Grated Zest of 2 Oranges, 2 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful Grated Nutmeg. Beat the sugar, butter and yolks of the eggs to a cream. Then add the water and the juice and grated zest of two oranges. Set to boll In a double boiler; add, if desired, when it begins to simmer well, one table- spoonful of wine; take off the flre and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a froth. Serve either hot or cold. If served cold, add the whites of the eggs at the moment of serving, as also the grated nutmeg. Serve with Orange Pudding, Orange Roly-Poly, etc. 269 Puncli Saace. Sauce au Ponche. 1 Gill of Good Cosnac or Rum. 5 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The Juice of 3 Oranges. The Zest of Half a Lemon. The Grated Rind of Half an Orange. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence. Put the rum or brandy, the sugar, orange rind, lemon zest and vanilla essence into a saucepan and set on the stove. As soon as the ingred- ients light into a flame, cover tightly with a lid and let all infuse together for two minutes. Then take from the Are and add the juice of three Louisiana oranges. Serve very hot j(s a pudding sauce. Rum Sance. Sauce au Rhura. 1 Gill of Jamaica Rum. 6 Ounces of Granulated Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Caramel. 1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. 1 Pint of Water. The Zest of 1 Lemon. Put the sugar and caramel (see recipe) and lemon zest in a sauce- pan, and when it begins to boil add a tablespoonful of cornstarch diluted in four tablespooriftfls of cold water. Let all cook for three minutes, and then remove frc*i the fire, and add the rum. Mix well, then strain through a sieve itttt) a sauce bowl and serve hot with iffxiit puddings especially. Silvery Sauc6. Sauce Argentge. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Whites of 2 Eggs. .c. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanflla or Lemon, .j,, 2 Cups of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Brandy. Beat the sugar and the butter to A cream. Set the milk to boil, and as"' it begins to simmer, add the sugar and butter. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes, and then take from the fire and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add the essence, stirring tiU thoroughly mixed. Add the brandy and serve, either hot or cold, with any berry pudding. Strawberry Sance. Sa\ice aux Fraises. 1 Cup of Creftm. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of fresh Mashed Strawberries. Mash the strawberries, and press them through a sieve. Beat the but- ter and sugar to a cream; whip the cream and beat in the strawberries; then add the betry juice and mix thoroughly. Add two tablespoonfuls of sherry, if desired, or brandy, and serve with strawberry pudding, strawberry shortcake, or strawberry pie. It may also be served cold with a plain bread pudding. Blackberry Sauce may be made and served in the same way. Add a gill of Brandy to the Blackberry Sauce. Vanilla Sauce. Sauce a, I'Essence de Vanille. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla. 4 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. Set the milk to boil, and beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar very light: add them to the boiling milk; stir for two minutes over the fire. Take off and add the "Vanilla and the whites of the eggs i^eaten to a froth; mix thoroughly, and serve e ther hot or cold. Velvet Saucevi Sauce Veloutee. 114 Cups of Powdered Sugar. % Cup Butter, A Tablespoonful of Cornstarch, 1 Gill of Bollins Water. 1 Gill of White Wine or Maraschino. Beat the - butter and sugar to a cream, and blend the cornstarch with a little cold water to form a paste. Boil the gill of water and add the cornstarch, stirring constantly as it thickens; continue stirring till trans- parent. Then add the butter and su- gar, stirring well till perfectly blend- ed, being careful to have the ves- " sel containing the sauce in a bain- marie, or another vessel of boiling water. Add a gill of White Wine or Maraschino, and the Juice of a lemon or orange, or vanilla extract, accord- ing to taste. Serve hot with any pudding. White Wine Sauce. Sauce au Vin Blanc. W Cup of Butter. 2% Cups Powdered Sugar. ^ Cud of Boiling Water. 2 Wineglasses of White Wine. 1 Tablespoonful Grated Nutmeg. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the boiling water. Set the vessel containing the mix- ture into a bain-marie or saucepan of boiling water, and stir in grad- ually the white wine and the grated nutmeg. Let the sauce get hot, but do not let it boil. When it forms a thick cream take off, and serve either hot or cold. Stir all the time it is on the fire. Serve with any pudding. CHAPTER XXXVII. CAKBS. Des Gateaux. The Picayune nas now come to one of the most interesting sections of its Cook Book — certainly a favorite section, as far as the Creole girls are concerned. There is scarcely a girl who can make a good cake who does not pride herself upon this ac- complishment, and "Ma Belle Crfiole" is no exception to this rule. She may not be able to make a "Ratatouille a, la Cr&ole," a "Bisque d':fiorevisses," or turn a pigeon "a. la Crapaudine," but if she knows how to make a "Gateau a I'Archange," or a "Gateau d'Amandes," it will not be long be- fore she w^ill treat you to one of these dainty Creole cakes, which her "maman" will be sure to tell you "Marguerite has made all by her- self." The mixing and baking of cakes has always been held a very import- ant branch of cookery. The baking is the most difficult part, but good cake making depends quite as much upon the quality and quantity of the ingredients used, and the manner of putting them together. Attention to the most minute detail in mixing is required if you seek success. Care- less mixing will spoil the most per- fect recipe. The greatest accuracy must be followed in proportioning out the ingredients, and using just so much, and no more. Often a ta- blespoonful of flour above the amount specified will cause the cake to crack open. The cream, the but- ter, the eggs, must be of the best quality. A stale egg will spoil the best cake, as also rancid butter. No cake should be flavored w^ith a poor, cheap extract. Care must be exer- cised in the choice of all the mate- rials, care in the exact weight speci- fied, care in the proper heat of the oven. The following General Directions tor Making Cakes should be read with care and implic- itly followed: A large earthen bowl is the best for mixing and beating the cakes and for beating butter and sugar to a cream, as is required in making rich cakes, such as pound cakes, etc. The hand is the best instrument for working the cake, although a wood- en spoon will be best for stirring in the ingredients. The spoon may be used also for beating, if you do not know how to use the hand dex- terously. Measure all Ingredients carefully before beginning to make the cake, and have all at hand, within reach. The whites and the yolks of the eggs must always be beaten separ- ately for fancy cakes. Use the white pulverized sugar in preference to the white granulat- ed for all cakes, except gingerbreads, as it makes a lighter cake. Sift the flour as often as the recipes specify and measure it again after .sifting. If you use cream of tartar in- stead of baking powder, sift the cream of tartar into the flour, and dissolve the soda that must accom- pany its use In a tablespoonful of boiling water, and always add it to the cake before you add the whites of the eggs. One-half teaspoonful of soda and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar may be used instead of one teaspoon- ful of baking powder where the re- cipe calls for the latter. Raisins should always be picked over and divested of the stems and seeded before using. In making fruit cake, prepare the fruit the day before. Currants should be picked over, washed and dried before using. Always use the butter thoroughly and drain of water before making the cake, and be sure that it is fresh, sweet, and of the very best quality. Use none but white pulverized su- gar, except in making gingerbread or gingercake. Sift your flour before weighing. All the following recipes are for sifted flour. Be perfectly accurate in weighing and measuring. If you use cupS for measurements let them be of the same size for all ingredients for the same cake. Sour milk will make & spongy cake and sweet milk will make a cake with a close grain. Never mix' sweet and sour milk In the same cake. Failure will .be the result. Let the eggs be sound and fresh, and beat thoroughly till light, if you wish your cake to succeed. Do not rely entirely on the baking powder or the soda for the rising. The re- 271 suit of such flimsy methods will be apparent in the cake. Rules tor Mixing Ingredlenta. Observe implicitly the following rules: Always beat the yolks and the whites separately for large cakes. Beat the yolks in an earthen dish till they begin to froth and thicken. Beat the whites to a froth so stiff that you can cut through it with a knife. Beat in a shallow dish with an egg beater or silver fork, pref- erably the egg beater. Beat or stir the butter and sugar to a cream, rubbing both together steadily until they form a perfect cream. Then, and not till then, mix the yolks with the butter and sugar. Beat these together till very light. Then add the milk, and mix thor- oughly. Sift the baking pow^der w^ith the flour, and add a little at a time, stirring in ■well, till all Is used up. Then add the whites of the eggs, beating them in thoroughly, and last- ly, add the flavoring extract. Follow, without the least varia- tion, the exact order given above in the mixture of ingredients. "When the cake is ready to bake, line the pan with a piece of buttered paper. This will prevent the cake from scorching. Then proceed to bake im- mediately, following the subjoined explicit Directions for Baking Cake. Have your oven ready. This is most important. The oven should be ready to bake the cake immedi- ately after it is well mixed, as stand- ing makes cake batter heavy. Test the temperature of the oven before putting the cake within. If you can hold your hand in the hot- test part for a quarter of an hour the temperature will be correct. If you have a Fahrenheit thermom- eter, let it be your guide as to the baking heat of the oven — 450 degrees is the proper heat for drop cakes, rolls, buns, tea cakes, muffins, puff paste, etc. If you have not a ther- mometer another good test is to throw a little cornmeal or flour in the center of the oven. If the flour smokes before you can count ten, the oven is too hot. If it smokes at ten, the-oven has the proper heat for the above cakes. As soon as these are baked the heat will be reduced to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and then the oven is ready to bake cream puffs, sugar cakes, queen cakes, jumbles, lady fingers, jelly rolls, etc. When these cakes are baked the heat will be re- duced to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, and the oven will be just at the proper temperature to bake wine cakes, cup cakes, ginger snaps, gingerbread, spice cakes, Madeira cakes, etc. Moderate the temperature slightly, and the oven will be ready for the baking of large cakes, such as pound. citron, marble, white, raisin, cur- ' rant, almond, macaroons, etc. And, after all these cakes are baked, you will have the proper temperature for wedding cake, meringue, aniseed cakes, etc. Thermometers are so cheap that if will pay the young housekeeper to have one in the house, rather than spoil ingredients by not having the oven at the right baking heat. It will be seen from the above that cakes made with butter will re- quire a moderate oven; cakes with- out butter will require a quick oven. In baking small cakes or cookies have a moderately quick oven. Bake molasses cakes in a moder- ately quick oven, and watch care- fully, as they burn easily. A large cake will reauire more time to bake than a loaf of bread of the same size. From an hour and a half to two hours will be sufficient for a pound cake. To ascertain if the cake is done, take a stiff broom straw and run it into the center of the cake. When it comes out, feel with your fingers. If it is clean and dry, the cake is done. If otherwise, the cake re- quires a little more baking. Never introduce the straw until you think that the cake is done. A thick paper (brown paper is best) spread over the top of the cake after it begins to bake will pre- vent it from browning too much. If it begins to brown as soon as you put it in the oven, it is an in- dication that the oven is too hot. Cover the cake with paper, and cool the oven by lifting the lid of the stove. But this is always risky. Have the oven of the right temper- ature. Never set anything else to cook in the oven while you are baking a cake. The cake will surely fall. Never move a cake when you have once set it in the oven till the center is perfectly firm and set. If you do, it will fall. If one side seems to be browning faster than the other, have recourse to the brown paper on top. When you set the cake in the oven shut the door very gently, and be careful not to jar the cake, or it will be heavy. Do not open the door for about ten minutes, and then as little as possible, and very gently. If the cake is browning too quickly, cover with a layer of thick paper. Watch the cake while baking; but never leave the oven door open. When. necessary to look at the cake, gently do It as quickly as possible, and then shut the door carefully, without jarring the cake. 272 A cake should rise to its full height before the crust begins to form. If it hardens too fast, have recourse immediately to covering with paper. Keep the oven at a steady, regular heat, the same at the top as at the bottom. Never take the cake out of the over until you are sure it is done. The broom splint, clean and dry, run through the center, is the infallible test. Let the cake cool in the pan in which it was baked, as it is apt to become heavy if turned out while hot. Never handle the cake while hot. If the cake is streaky it shows that It was not mixed properly, or that the baking was rapid and unequal, or that the oven's temperature sud- denly decreased before the cake was done. When the cake is cool, if you wish to ice, it, proceed as follows: HoTT to Ice Cakes. Take one pound of pulverized su- gar and the whites of two eggs. Have the eggs set in the refrigerator for about an hour before using. Beat the eggs and the sugar and a tea- spoonful of rose or orange flower water or vanilla essence together till thei eggs are very light. In commenc- ing to beat do not beat the whites separately. Break them into a cold, shallow dish, and throw in a hand- ful of sugar at a time, beating mean- while, and adding at short .intervals, till you have used up all the sugar. Or beat the whites and sugar and essence together. When the mix- ture is stiff and smooth, begin to lay a thin coating of the ice over the cake, using a knife to spread it, and occasionally dipping the knife into the lemon juice, which will enable you to smooth it nicely. When it is covered with this first coat, set in a warm place to harden — or in a mod- erate oven, where you may let it re- main about four minutes, or in the sunshine where there is no dust around. When it is hardened it will be ready for the next coat. 'Proceed as above. This coat will be much smoother and whiter than the first. Let the thickness of the icing al- ways be such that it will run very slow. If the icing is well prepared this will give a smooth, glossy sur- face. Instead of the essence, the juice of a lemon (one tablespoonful) may be added to the icing. If you wish to use ornaments, secure a piping tube, and place the ornaments around the cake while moist, running a plain tube around the edge of the cake, and then coverKig the c£li(e with a thin icing level with the rim. Let it run smooth, and dry in the sun or In the oven. The sun is always best, if you ari rot in a very great hurry. The above recipe Is for plain icing It may be varied according to tastu by using pineapple, strawberry, or other flavoring. In using straw- berry icing, add a few drops of coch- ineal to color. For further partic- ulars as to different icings for cakes, see special section on "Icings and Frostings for Cakes." The Picayune Cake. Gateau Picayon. For upwards of seventy years the Picayune has led the vanguard of progress in New Orleans. In all pub- lic, philanthropic, charitable and edu- cational enterprises, and whatever has tended towards the public weal, the Picayune, old in years, but with its youth ever renewed, has always brought the rtiovement to a trium- phant issue. This gave rise to a popular saying in New Orleans that the "Picayune always takes the cake." Acting upon this fact, a New Orleans lady originated a cake, and named it, in compliment to this jour- nal, "The Picayune Cake." It is made as follows: 1 Cup of Finely^Sifted Flour. 1 Cup . of Fine White Sugar. Whites of » Egss. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Extract. 1 Teaspoonful Lemon. Beat the whites of the - eggs to a stiff froth, after which very little beating will be required. Add slow- ly a heaping cupful of fine white su- gar, and one cup of flour, both of which have been sifted four times to reach this measurement. Then add one teaspoonful each of vanilla and lemon extract, and two teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, just before putting into the oven. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five min- utes, and this cake, when eaten, will give the same satisfaction that the Picayune gives to Its readers, as they devour its contents daily, and never get tired, but call for "more." Almond Cake, Gateau d'Amandes. 12 Eggs. 1 Pound of Sifted Loaf Sugar. 94 Pound of Sifted Flour. 6 Ounces Sweet Almonds. Zest of 2 Citrons, Zest of 1 Orange. 14 Teaspoonful Salt. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the- whites separately, beating the latter to a stiff froth. Blanch the almonds, and peel them and pound them to a. fine flour in a mortar. Gi:ate the zest of the oranges and lemons or citrons, and mix well. Beat the su- gar and the yolks of the eggs to a cream, and gradually add one- half of 273 the flour, beating well. Then add the almonds, mixing thoroughly, and, after beating vigorously, add one- half of the whites of the eggs Beat well, add the remainder of the flour, and then add the remainder of the eggs Finally add the orange flower water, and mix lightly. Butter a pa- per, and put in the cake pan, and pour in the m.ixture, and bake for one hour in a moderate oven. Angel Cake. Gateau d'Ange. 1% Cups of Granulated Sugar, Sifted. 1 Cup Sifted Plour. The Whites of 11 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Cream of Tartar. 1 Teaspoonful Vanilla. Vi Teaspoonful Salt. Sift the flour four times, and then put in the cream of tartar, mix well, and sift a fifth time. Sift the su- gar four times. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a very stiff froth, so stiff thait they may be cut with a fcnife clearly. Then add the flour by degrees, beating all the time. Ijast- ly, add the flavoring extract. Do not butter 'the pan for this cake, but turn the mixture quickly into an un- gre'ased Turk's head pan (a pan with a tube in the middle), and bake for three-quarters of an hour in a mod- erate oven. Test with a broom wisp. When done, turn the cake upside down, resting on the tube of the pan, and let it cool. The cake will fall out of the pan. Ansel's Pood. Biscuit d'Ange. 1% Cups of Sifted, Powdered White Sugar. 1 Cup Sifted Flour. Whites of 11 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Balslng Powder. 1 Teaspoonful Vanilla. Vi Teaspoonful Salt. Put the baking powder and the salt (or use cream of tartar instead of baking powder) into the flour, and sift it seven times. If you use cream of tartar, add it in the last sifting. Sift the sugar seven times. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, and add gradually the sugar, mixing very carefully. Then add 'the flour, gradually beat- iing all the while, and laistly 'add the flavoring extract. Pour the mixture into a Turk''S head baking pan (un- greased), and bake for forty-flve minutes in a moderate oven. Test ■with the broom wisp. When done, turn the cake upside down, resting the pan on the tube till the cake falls ' off. Arclinngel Cake. Gateau d'Arohange ou Gateau de I'Ange Gabriel. 1 Cnp of Butter. 2 Cups of Sifted Flour. 1 Cup of White Pulverized Sugar. The Whites of 8 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract. % Teaspoonful of Salt. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Add tihe baking powder to the flour, and sift it three times. Sift the sugar three times. Beat the butter, whicli has been well-washed, to a cream with the sugar. Then gradually add the flour, beating all tihe while, 'and the flavoring extract. Lastly, 'add the whites, which must be very stiff. 'Mix all thoroughly, and 'bake for about half an hour in a moderately quick oven. Use a Turk's head tin. (Follow directions for baking cake.) Banann Meringue 'Cake. Gateau de Bananes M§ringu#s. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. Vi Pound (Flour. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 3 Bananas. 1 Cup of Cream 'Sauce. Whites of 3 Eggs. Make a Sponge Cake; slice in two across the cake; slice bananas length- wise very nicely 'and lay on the bot- tom layer of cake; sprinkle with a little powdered sugar, and then spread over a. little Cream Sauce, which you will liave made to tihe consistency of Cream Puff filling. Put over this the second layer .of oake, 'and then repe-at the process ■ of spreading the ben'anas and cream on the layer. Make a 'meringue with the whites of three eggs 'and three tablespoonfuls of 'sugar, and spread this over the whole. Set in a quick oven 'and bake 'to a delicate brown, ojnd serve, either hot or cold, with a Wine Sauce, preferably Sauce au Vin de M'adere. (See recipe.) Black Cake. 'Gateau Noir. 1 Pound of Brown Sugar. 1 Pound of Butter, 1 Pound of Flour. 2 Pounds Currants. 2 Pounds of Seeded Kaisins. % Pound of Citron, Cut very Thin. % Pound of Chipped Figs. 1 Glass of Jelly. 1 Wineglass of Brandy. 1 Pound Almonds, Blanched' and Chopped, 12 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Extract of 'Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful Cloves. 2 Teaspoonfuls 'Nutmeg. Wash and cleanse the currants thorougihly. Seed the i^aisins. Beat the butter and sugar 'to a cream. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Add one-half of the fiour and the spices. Mix all the fruit in the remiaining flour, having first sliced the citron very thin, 'and add to the mixture. Then 'add the jelly, which should be homemade and of the best quality. Otherwise, add one cup of the best Louisiana molasses. Mix thoroughly. Add the whites of the eggs and the brandy last. Divide irnto two tins, which must be lined with well-greased piaper. Bake for four hours in a 'Slow oven. Test with the broom wisp. If not done through cook longer, watoMng carefully, Eind using the test till 'the straw is dri^. 274 Buttermilk Cake. Gateau au Babeurre. 2 Cups of Buttermilk. 3 Cups of Sugar. B Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 4 Eggs. % jTeasnooQful of Soda. Beat the butter to a cream, and then add the sugar, which has been sifted fine. Beat to a cream. Add the yolks of the eggs, and continue beating till very light. Mash the soda in the buttermilk, dissolving thoroughly, first in a half cupful, and then mixing well with the re- mainder of the milk. Add this to the eggs and butter. Then gradually add the sifted flour, and beat till very smooth. Lastly add the whites of. the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Bride's Cake. Gateau de MariS. 3 Cups of White Pulverized Sugar. 1 Cup of Butter. 4 Cups of Sifted Flour. ^ Cup of Cornstarch. The Whites of 12 Bags. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Cup of Sweet Milk. 1 Teaspoonful ot Extract of Lemon. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Sift the flour and baking powder. Siff the sugar. Beat the butter and sugar tp a cream. Beat till very light. Mix the cornstarch with the sweet milk and add to the sugar and butter, beating well. Then add gradually the flour, mixing thor- oughly, and beating light. Add the extract of lemon, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake one hour in a moderate oven, using the broom wisp test. If not done, bake a little longer. Chocolate Loaf Cake. Gateau au Chooolat. 1 'Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1% Cups ot Sifted Flour. % Cup of Milk. Yolks of 8 EgRS. ' White of 1 Bgg. Vi Cake of Grated Chocolate. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Dissolve the chocolate in the cup of milk, and boil till thick. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. Then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Sift the flour, and add the baking powder, and sift again. Then add the flour gradually to the mixture, beating all the while. Now add the chocolate, and beat very vigorously. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Then add the essence, beat- ing lightly again, and turn into a greased pan and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour or an hour. Chocolate Cake A la Creole, Gateau au Chocolat a la Crfiole. 1% Cups of Flour, m Cups of Sugar, 14 Cup of Butter. 4 Eggs. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Chocolate, or 2 Ounces. % Cup of Mlk. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually .add the sugar, beating constantly. "When very light, add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till these are very light. Then add the milk and the chocolate, which you will have dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Mix thoroughly, and add by degrees the flour, beat- ing all the while. Give a very vig- orous beating and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir them very carefully into the batter, and add the vanilla, and final- ly the baking powder. Mix all very quickly and lightly, and set to bake in buttered pans in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Citron Cake. Gateau au C§drat. 1 Quart of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar, 12 Eggs. 1 Cup of Cream. 1 Glass of Wine. 1 Cup of Chopped Citron. 1 Teaspoonful of Almond Extract. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Add the cream, and mix thoroughly, and then add by degrees the citron, mixing thorough- ly. Now, by degrees, add the flour, well-sifted. Beat well. Then add the wine, and lastly the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix all quickly and lightly; add the almond extract, mix lightly, and then set to bake in a buttered pan in a mod- erate oven for one hour. Cocoanut liOaf Cake. Gateau au Coco. Vi Pound of Butter. 2 Cups Grated Cocoanut, 5 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk. ^ Cup of Butter. % Pound of Flour. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. The Juice and Grated Zest of 1 Lemon, Beat the butter and sugar to a rich cream. Add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Then add the milk, and the flour by de- grees, beating 'all the while, and then add the lemon. Beat well. Add the cocoanut, and stir in carefully and well. Sift the baking powder over the whites of the eggs, which you will have beaten to a stiff froth, and add these, beating lightly and thoroughly. Have ready two loaf pans, and line them with very thin buttered paper. Now divide the bat- 275 ter Into two even parts, filling eaoli pan about tliree-quarters full. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for forty-five minutes. When done, cov- er the top with finely-grated cocoa- nut, and sift powdered sugar over it.' Set it to cool. This Is a famous Cre- ole cake. Clove Cake, Gateau de Girofles. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Sour Cream. 1 Egg. 1/4 Cup of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. A Pinch of Salt. Beat the sugar and yolk of the egg to a cream. Add the cream and soda blended. Mix thoroughly. Then add the cloves, and mix well. Sift the flour and salt together, and add gradually, beating all the while. Give several vigorous beats, and set to bake in a buttered tin in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes. Cofflee Cake. Gateau de Caf6. 1 Cup of Cafe Noir (Black Coffee). 4 Eggs. 4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Molasses. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Seeded Kaisins. 1 Cup of Currants, Washed and Dried. 1 Grated Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. % Teaspoonful of Cloves. % Teaspoonful of Soda, Dissolved In Warm Water. Wash and cream the butter. Add the sugar and beat till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs. Beat them into the butter and sugar till very light. Add the molasses, and mix thoroughly. Then take the seeded currants and raisins and blend them with one-half of the flour and add gradually. Now, add by de- grees the remainder of the flour, beating vigorously. Then add the coffee, and mix well. Add the soda, dissolved in hot water. Add the spices, mix well, and finally add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stifC froth. Mix thoroughly but lightly, divide into two parts, set in two greased paper-lined tins, and bake from forty-five minutes to one hour in a moderate oven. caramel Cake. Gateau au Caramel. 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 1% Cups of Flour, Sifted. 1 Cup of Cornstarch. Whites of 7 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Cream the butter, add the sugar, and beat till v?ry light. Then add the milk. Mix well. Sift the flour, cornstarch and baking powder to- gether, and add gradually to the mix- ture, beating vigorously all the while. Then add the va.nllla: and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix all quickly and lightly, turn into a long family pan, and bake for 'about half an hour in a moderate oven. Apply the broom wisp test. When done, take out of the oven and, set to cool. When cool, take 2 Cups of Brown Sugar. 1 Cup Sweet Cream. 2 Teaspoonfuls Vanilla. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Boil all together until it sugars, and spread over the top and sides. Or, if you wish something" much nicer, make the following mixture: % Pound Brown Sugar. % Pound Chocolate. 14 Cup Milk. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 2 Tablespoontuls of Vanilla. Grate the chocolate, and set all to boiling together until thick enough to spread over the top and sides of the cake. This is delicious. Cnp Cake. Gateau Savoie. 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 3 Cups of Flour. . 4 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon or Rose Extract. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar gradually, beating all the while. Then beat the yolks until they are very light, and add to the mixture. Add the milk. Mix well, and add half of the flour, which you will have sifted with the baking powder. Then add the well-beaten whites of the eggs, and the remain- der of the flour, and the extract of Lemon or Rose. Filially add the bak- ing powder, mix quickly and lightly, turn into a Turk's head pan, which you will have lined with a greased paper, and bake for forty-five min- utes in a moderate oven. One, Two, Three, Four Cup Cake. Un. Deux. Trois, Quatre. i Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 3 Cups of Flour. 4 Eggs. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar. Beat till very light. Beat the eggs (yolks and whites together) till very light, and add them grad- ually to the butter and sugar, beat- ing all the while. Beat vigorously. Add the sifted flour, and beat thor- oughly until very light. Then line a round cake pan with the buttered paper, and fill with the mixture. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for one hour and a quarter. Cake Witliout Eggs. Gateau Sans Oeufs. 2 Cups of Sifted Flour. 1 Cup of Milk. 1:^4 Cups of Sugar. 2 Tablespoontuls Butter. 1 Teaspoonful Baking Powder. 14 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract. Beat the sugar and the butter to a, cream, and then add the m.llk. 276 stirring carefully. Add the flour, and beat well and hard. Then add the salt, flavoring- extract and bak- ing powder. Mix all thoroughly, and bake in a moderate oven for a half hour. Delicate Calce, Dfilioatesse. H4 Cnps of Plour. 1% Cups of Sugar. % Cup of Cornstarch, Sifted With the Flour. J^ Cup of Butter. % Cup of Milk. , Whites of 6 Egss. 2 Teaspoonfuls Baiting Powder. % Teaspoonful of Extract of Lemon. Vi. Teaspoonful Salt. Cream the butter and beat it and the sugar to a cream. Add the jnilk, and stir carefully. Then add grad- ually the flour, into which has been sifted the salt and the cornstarch, and mix thoroughly. Then add the flavoring extract, and, lastly, the whjtes of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Sift the baking powder over the whites. Mix quickly and ligTitly with the batter, and bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Dried Fruit Calse, Gateau de Fruits Sees. 3 Cups .of Dried Appies, Peaches or any Kind of Dried Fruit. 2 Cups of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Cup of Milk. 2 Eggs. 54 Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Suzar. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cloves and Macfi. % Pound of Stoned Raisins. % Grated Nutmeg. 14 Teaspoonful Salt. The Juice of a Lemon. 1% Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder or 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. Soak the fruit over night. Then chop very line, and simmer in a saucepan with the molasses for two hours and a half. Let it cool. Seed the raisins. Beat the butter and su- gar to a cream, until very light. Ad I the yolks of the eggs, and beat till light. Now add the milk and then the fruit and molasses, stirring care- fully. Beat hard for five minutes. Now add the flour, which you will have sifted with the baking powder, and beat vigorously for five min- utes. If you use soda, dissolve it at this point into a tablespoonful of boiling water, and add, mixing well. Then add the raisins, and beat vigorously, and the spices and salt. Add the juice of the lemon, and final- ly the whites of the eggs, beaten to a ^tlffi froth. The batter must be stiff, but of sufHcient elasticity to drop from the spoon. Bake in a mod- erate oven for two hours. Use the broom wisp to test; If It comes out clean and dry, then the cake is done. This Is a very nice and economical family cake, if prop- erly made. Fis Calie. Gateau de Figues. 1 Cup Butter. 2 Cups Sugar. 1 Cup Milk. 3 Cups of Seeded Balsins. 1 Pound of Figs, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Egg. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, 3 Cups of Plour. Vi Teaspoonful of Salt. V4, Grated Nutmeg. Beat the butter to a cream and add the sugar. Then beat very light, and add the egg. Beat well and add the milk; carefully and gradually add the flour, into which you have sifted the baking powder. Add the raisins and the flgs, and beat thoroughly; add the grated nut- meg, and bake for an hour in a. moderate oven. Bake slowly, and use the broom wisp test.. If not done, bake longer, till the straw comes out clean and dry. Fruit Calce. Gateau de Fruits. V4 Pound of Grated Lemon and Orange Peel, Mixed, % Pound of Eaisins. Yi Pound of Preserved Cherries. 54 Pound of Sultanas. Vi Pound of Preserved Figs. Vi Pound of Citron. Vi Pound of Preserved Aaricots. % Pound of Sifted Plour. Vi Pound of Preserved Pineapple. 14 Pound of Butter. ^ Pound of Mashed Almonds. 1 Grated Nutmeg. % Pound Of White Pulverized Sugar. ' 14 TaMespoonful of Mace. 8 Eggs. 'Vi Tablespoonful Ground Cinnamon. 1 , The Juice of 1 Oranse. 14 Tablespoonful of Cloves. The Juice of 1 Lemon. lii Tablespoonful Ground Allspice. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 14 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Wineglassful of Good Brandy. 1 Wineglassful of Sherry Wine or Jamaica Rum, Prepare the fruit first. Stone thQ raisins, picking carefully. Pick over the sultanas carefully, and wasji them well. Then cut the orange and lemon zest very fine, almost grat- ing. Cut the citron very, very fine. Cut all the remaining fruit into quarter-inch dice, or very, very small pieces. You may use the candied fruit, but the preserved is recom- mended as better and lighter and more digestible. Beat the butter to a rich cream, and then add the sugar, and beat all till very, very ligh^. Beat the yolks and the whites of th& eggs together till very, very light, and then add them to the sugar an(I butter, and then beat again very, very light. Sift the salt and baking- powder and flour together, and grad- ually add it to the mixture, beatiwgr 277 very vigorously till light. Then mix all the fruit together, dredging with flour, so as to keep them apart, and then add the spices to the tatter. Mix well, and add the fruit. Mix thoroughly, and "then add the brandy or rum. Beat all together well once more, and then line a cake pan with buttered paper, and turn the mixture into it. and bake in a very slow, steady oven for four and a half hours. Use the broom wisp test. "When it comes out clean and ■dry the cake is done. Then let it stand over night in the pan to cool. In the morning take it out and remove the paper. Take one pint of the best French brandy, and one pint of the best champagne, and one gill of orange, raspberry or straw- berry syrup, mixed with the wine. Set the cake in a stone pot of suf- ficient size, and pour the mixture over it. Then set the cake in a cool place and cover the top of the jar airtight with a piece of thin linen, and set the cover on top. Let the cake stand for three weeks. A't the •end of that time remove the cover and paper, and turn the cake, and let it stand for three weeks longer. The Creoles always let their fruit cakes stand for six weeks at least before cutting. This is an old Creole recipe for Fruit Cake, and very excellent. The above will make an eight-pound cake. Plain Fruit Catee. Gateau de Fruits. It is not every housewife who can afford to make the above fruit cake; those of limited means will find the following simple cake much more economical; it is very excellent: 1 Pound of Brown Sugar. 1 Pound of Butter. 10 Eggs. 2 Pounds of Seeded Raisins. 2 Pounds of Currants. 1 Pound of Citron. 14 Pound of Almonds. 1 Nutmeg. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice and Cinnamon. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Mace and Cloves. % Pound of Sifted Flour. The Zest Each of an Orange and Lemon. Yi Teaspoonful of Salt. The Juice of 1 Orange and 1 Lemon. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Wineglassful of Good French Brandy. 1 Wineglassful of Sherry Wine or Jamaica Rum. Prepare the fruit by seeding the raisins, washing and drying the cur- rants, cutting the citron Into shreds and dice, and mashing the almonds. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream and add the eggs, which .you will ■first beat, without separating whites and yolks, till very light. Beat these ?nto the sugar and butter till very Ueht and then add the flour grad- Jiflly and the spices. Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt, and then mix the fruit into it before add- ing to the cake. Beat vigorously. Then add the grated zest of the orange and lemon, and the juices of both. Stir well and add the brandy and wine or rum. Mix well. Divide the batter into two pans, which you will have lined with greased paper, and bake in a steadily moderate oven for four hours. Use the broom wisp test, and if it comes out clean and ary the cake is done. If not, let the cake bake from a quarter to a half hour longer, watching carefully. This will make a nine-pound cake, or two four-and-a-half-pound cakes. "When done, put the cake into an earthen- ware bowl, with a flat bottom. Pour over a pint of the best brandy and half a pint of Sherry Wine. Make the vessel air tight by tying around a linen cloth, and put on the cover. Set the cake away for about three weeks, and then open and turn. Let it remain three weeks longer, and the cake is ready to cut. If you wish to use it sooner, do not add the liquor after baking, but set the cake away to cool in the pan in which it was baked. Then place in a cool place after taking out and removing the paper, and wait eight days before cutting. Glneer Cake. Gateau au Gingembre. 3 Cups of Flour. 2 Egss. % Cup of Milk or Sour Cream. 1 Teaspoonful ot Soda or Baking Powder. % Cup of Butter or Lard. 1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger, or 1 Ta- blespoonful Bach of Ground Cinnamon and Ginger. 1^ Cups of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Pint of Louisiana Molasses. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream and then add the melted but- ter, beating till very light. Sift the baking powder and the flour to- gether, and add the ginger, mixing well; then add the milk and the mo- lasses to the butter and eggs, mixing thoroughly. "When well blended, add the flour and ginger and baking pow- der (mixed) and beat vigorously. Finally add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, turn into a well-greased tin, and bake in a mod- erate oven for forty-five minutes. Use the broom wisp test before tak- ing the cake out of the oven. Glneer Bread. Pain d'fipices. 14, Pound of Butter. % Pound of Sugar. 3 Pints of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Ground Ginger. 1 Teaspoonful Ground Cinnamon. 1 Pint of Sweet Milk or Sour Cream. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda or Baking Powder. Beat the butter to a cream, and then add the sugar. Beat till very light, and then beat the yolks of the 278 eggs till creamy and add to the but- ter and sugar. Beat very light. Now add the molasses and stir well, mix- ing thoroughly; then add the milk and mix well into the flour, with which you will have sifted the bak- ing powder, and beat till very smooth. Then add the ground ginger and cin- namon; mix well; and finally add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; mix well and pour into two well-greased, shallow tins. Bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes, using the broom wisp test before tak- ing out of the oven. Sprinkle with white sugar and serve, either hot or cold. If soda is used, dissolve it in a tablespoonful of boiling water and add to the molasses; then add to the butter and sugar before adding the flour and milk. Some beat the whites and yolks together; but the bread is rtiuch lighter and more deli- cate when the whites and yolks are beaten separately. Stage Planks or Ginger Bread Wlth- ont Butter or Egsa, Eslomao Muiatre. 1 Cup of Molasses. 1 Cup of Sour Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger. 1 Gill of Lard. 3 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Soda. Melt the molasses, lard and ginger together and blend well. When thor- oughly melted and warmed, beat for about ten minutes. Then dissolve the soda in a tablespoonful of boil- ing water and add to the molasses; mix it thoroughly, and then add the flour, using good Judgment and add- ing just enough of the three cups of sifted flour to make a. stiff bat- ter; beat thoroughly and vigorously. Have ready several greased, shallow pans; pour the mixture into them and bake for ten minutes in a quick oven. This bread makes the famous "Stage Planks," or ginger cakes, sold by the old darkies around New Or- leans, In old Creole days, to those of their own race and to little white children. The ancient Creoles, fond of giving nicknames, gave to this stiff ginger cake the name of "Es- tomac Muiatre." or "The Mulatto's Stomach," meaning that it was' only fit for the stomach of a mulatto to digest. Prencli-Creole Cake. Gateau Fransais-CrSole. 1 Pound of Sifted Sugar (Wbite Pulverized). The Grated Peel of 1 Lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water. 12 Eggs. % Pound of Sifted Flour. 14 Pound of Mashed Rice (Dried). 1 Tablespoonful of Baking Powder. 4 Ounces Sweet Almonds. 1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, after having blanched and peeled the almonds and pounded them to a fine powder in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the eggs very light, and gradually add the rice, which has been well-mashed. Mix the almonds thoroughly with the flour; then add these gradually to the sugar, beating vigorously. Add the grated zest of the lemon and the essence, and final- ly add the whites of the eggs and mix lightly and quickly. Butter a paper and line the bottom and sides of the pan, and bake the cake in a moderate oven for one hour. Fruit Glngrer Bread. Pain d'fipices aux Fruits. 1 Pound of Flour. % Pound of Butter. V2 Pound of Sucar. 1 Cup of Louisiana Molasses. ^ Pound of Haislns. % Pound of Currants, Washed and Dried. % Cup of Sour Cream. 3 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda or Baking Powder (Level). 1 Teaspoonful of Ground- Ginger. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cinnamon and Cloves. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and warm the molasses and beat with the sugar and butter. Then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and the milk and spices and ginger, mixing thoroughly. Add the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling water; mix well; and mix the seeded raisins and currants well; then add the flour by degrees, beat- ing vigorously. Finally add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and beat thoroughly. Put in two shallow pans in the oven for about two hours. The broom wisp test must be used before taking the cake out of the oven. Sugar ginger loaf is made in the same manner, simply omitting the fruits and 'spiced ginger loaf and adding a teaspoon- ful each of ground cloves, mace, cin- namon and allspice to the ginger. Gold Cake. Gateau d'Or. 114 Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 14 Cud of Butter. 3 iCups of Flour. The Ifolks of 6 Eggs. ■ 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar and beat till very light Then add the well-beaten yolks of the. eggs; beat vigorously till light, and gradually add the flour, Into which you will have sifted the baking pow- der. Bake for forty-five minutes In a moderate oven. Save the whites of the eggs for Silver Cake. Silver Cake. Gateau Argentfi. V2 Cup of Butter. 1% Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 3 Cups of Flour. 2. Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. The Whites of 6 Egis. Beat the butter to a cream; then add the well-beaten sugar and beat 279 well; add the yolks of the eggs and beat till very light. Then add the milk and mix carefully. Now sift the flour and baking powder to- gether, and add gradually . to the mixture. Turn into a buttered pan and bake in a moderate oven for forty-flVe minutes. Honey Cake. Gateau de Miel. 1 Teaspoon'ful of Honey. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. ^ Teaspoonful of Melted Butter. 1 Pint of Flour. 2 Esgs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Carraway Seeds. This is a very popular Creole cake. Take one teacupful each of honey and sugar, and mix well. Add a halt teaspoonful of melted butter and the yolks of two well-beaten eggs; sift one teaspoonful of baking pow- der into a pint of flour and add. Beat all together till very light, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Finally, add a tea- spoonful of carraway seed, if desired, and bake in a moderate oven from half an hour to three-quarters of an hour. Imperial Cafee. Gateau Imperial. 1 Pound ot Butter. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pound of Plour. The Juice and Rind of 1 Lemon. 1 Pound of Blanched Almonds. Ms Pound of Citron. % Pound of Raisins. 9 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. Blanch and peel and pound the almonds in a mortar. Seed the rai- sins, and cut the citron into shreds and quarter-inch dice, very fine. Grate the zest of the lemon. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the su- gar gradually, beating till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs beat- en to a cream. Beat till very light, and mix the sifted flour and baking powder with the almonds, and add them gradually to the mixture, beat- ing vigorously. Add the raisins, dredging with flour, and the citron. Mix well. Add the Juice of the lem- on, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth. Turn into a buttered tin. and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Use the broom-wisp test before taking out of the oven. Indian Ponnd Cafee. Gateau I'Indienne. % Cup of Flour. 1 Cup of Indian Meal. % Pound of Butter. % Pound Sugar. 8 Eggs. 1 Grated Nutmeg. 1 Teaspoonful of Cinnamon. % Glass of Sherry Wine and Brandy, Mixed. Stir the' butter and sugar to a cream, and add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat till very light, and then add the meal and flour, well blended. Beat light. Add the spices and liquor, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat thoroughly, but lightly, and turn into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a half. Lady Cake (White). Gateau Blanc a, la Dame. 1% Cups of Flour. 1 Oup of Sugar. V: Cup of Butter. The Whites of 4 Eggs. i^ Cup of Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonlul of Peach Extract. Cream the butter, add the eggs, beating the whites to a stiff froth, and mixing well. Add the milk, and gradually add the flour, blending thoroughly, and beating till very light. Add the essence, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Lnnch Cake. Gateau du GoUter. i Cups of Sugar. 3 Cups of Flour. % Cup of Milk. 2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, 1 Teaspoonful of Peach Extract. Beat the sugar and eggs to a cream, and add the milk. Then add gradually the flour, into which you will have sifted the baking powder. Add one tablespoonful of Peach Ex- tract, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Madame John's Cake. Gateau de M'me Jean. 1 Pound of Sugar. 7 Ounces Butter. The Whites of 16 Eggs, Whipped to a Stiff Froth-. 1 Pound Sifted Flour. Juice of 1 Orange. Cream the sugar and butter to- gether till very light. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff snow, after which stir in gradually the flour and one teaspoonful of baking powder. Flavor with the juice of one orange, or with a table- spoonful of Orange Extract, and bake for from thirty to forty-five minutes in a quick oven. "Use the broom-wisp test. Marble Cake. Gateau MarbrS. The white part: % Cup of Butter. % Cup ot Milk. , 1% Cups of White Pulverized Sugar, 21^ Cups of Flour. The Whites of 4 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Lemon. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually add the sugar, beaten thoroughly till very light. Then add the milk, and stir carefully. " Add one-half of the flour, evenly, divided. Beat vigorously, and add the Lemon Extract. Mix well, and add the 280 ■whites o( the eggs, beattn to a thick froth, and the remainder of the flour. Then stand this mixture to one side while you make the dark part of the cake. Dark part: % Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Brown 'Sugar. The yolks ot 4 Esis. Vi Cup of Milk. 1% Cups of Flour. 2 Ounces of Melted Chocolate. 1 Teasijoonful Vanilla. 1 Teaspoonful of Cloves (if desired). 1 Teaspoonful Baking Powder. Beat the hutter and the sugar to a cream, till very light, and. then add the beaten yolks of ' the eggs, and beat till very, light. Add the milk, and stir carefully. Then add the flour, and blend and beat till smooth. Dissolve the chocolate in a little of the milk, and add, mixing well, and then add the vanilla essence and the baking powder to tthe mixture. Add the baking powder now. to the first mixture, and mix thoroughly and lightly. Then grease a piece of brown paper, and line the cake pan, and put in first a spoonful of the white mixture and then one of the dark, and continue alternating thus till all is used. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for three-quarters of an hour. Try the broom-straw test, and if it comes out clean and dry, the cake is done. If not, bake a quarter of an hour longer. The cake must cool in the pan In which It was baked. When cut you will have a beautifully marbled cake. Chocolate Alarble Cake. Gateau Marbrg au Chocolat. The Whites of 6 Eggs. 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 3 Cups of Flour. % Cu2 of Sweet Milk. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, % Cake of Grated Chocolate. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Extract. Beat the butter and sugar to a' cream, and then add the milk. Sift the flour and baking powder togeth- er, and stir into the cake gradually. Then add the vanilla essence and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Divide the cake batter in two, and mix the grated chocolate into one half. Then put a dark layer of cake in the pan, then a light, and continue so alternating until all the batter is used. Bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Motley Cake, Gateau M616. 1 Pound ot Sugar. % Pound ot Butter. 3 Cups of Flour. 12 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Peach Extract. 1 Teaspoonful ot Fruit Coloring. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream and then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat until very light. Then add gradually the flour, into which you will have sifted, in the second sifting, the baking poT7- der. Mix thoroughly and beat vig- orously. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stifiC froth. Now di- vide the batter into two parts, and put one spoonful of Peach ' Extract into one, and one spoonful of fruit coloring into the other. Mix well, and drop by spoonfuls into tTie but- tered cake pan. first a spoonful of the white, and then one of the pink, until all the batter is used up. Bake from forty-five minutes to one hour in a moderate oven. Molasses Cake. Gateau a. la Mglasse. 2 Cups ot Louisiana Molasses. 1 Cup of Boiling Milk or Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder or Sods. 3% Cups ot Flour (Sifted). 4 'Eggs. 1 Cup Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger, Vi. Teaspoonful ot Cloves. Melt the butter. Dissolve the soda in the boiling water, using about one tablespoonful, and add it to the molasses. Then beat the sugar and butter to a cream, until very light, and add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Add these to the molasses, and then stir in the cream. Beat till smooth, and then add gradually the flour, beating till very light and smooth. Now add the ginger and cloves, or a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and the w^hites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Place In a shallow cake pan, buttered, and bake in a moderate oven from thirty to forty- five minutes. A Plain Molasses Cake. Gateau a, la Mfilasse. 1 Cup ot Louisiana Molasses. 3 Cups ot Flour. 1 Cup of Boiling Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Ginger. Dissolve the soda in boiling water, and add it to the molasses. Then melt the butter, and add. and pour in gradually the boiling water, mix- ing well. Now add gradually the flour, beating well, and add the gin- ger. Beat until all is very smooth, and then bake for a half hour in a moderate oven. Manqnfi. The Tolks of 8 Eggs. The Whites of 3 Eggs, Beaten to a Froth. Vt Pound ot Wlilte Pulverized Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of Flonr. The Grated Zest ot 1 Lemon. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. Beat the sugar and butter and yolks of the eggs to a very light cream, and then add the grated zest 281 of the lemon. Gradually add the flour, which you will haVe mingled and sifted with the baking powder. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat lightly and quickly, and place in a buttered cake pan, and bake for thirty min- utes in a moderately quick oven. Nat Cake. Gateau aux Noix. 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 3 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Milk. 4 Eggs. 1 Cup of Nut Meats, Cut Fine. 2 Teaspoonfuls Baking Powder. % Teaspoonful of Extract of Almond. Beat the butter to a cream, and add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Add the milk, and mix care- fully. Then sift the baking powder and flour together, and add the flour, beating till very smooth. Add half th# beaten whites, which must be of a stiff froth, and mix well. Then add the nuts (pecans, mashed almonds, peanuts and Brazilian nuts, mixed, and cut or mashed very flne). Add the remainder of the whites of the eggs, the Almond Extract and the baking jowder, and mix well. Pour into two square, flat pans, lined with buttered paper, and bake in a mod- erate oven forty-flve minutes. Use the broom-straw test. If the straw comes out clean and dry. the cake is done; otherwise bake it a little longer. Keep the heat of the oven steady and moderate. Orange Cafee. Gateau d'Orange. 1 Ripe Oranges. 1 Pound Pulverized Sugar. 1 Pound of Butter. 14 Ounces of Flour. 10 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. Wash the oranges. Then dry and roll them under your hand on a board till very soft. Grate the zest of the oranges, and then cut ud the fruit fine, and squeeze through a strainer till all the juice is extracted. Wash the butter till you extract all the salt, and then beat it to a cream. Add the sugar, and beat thoroughly, and then add the orange zest and juice, and beat till very light. Add the yolks of the eggs, well-beaten, and again beat the mixture till light. Then, by degrees, add the flour, ad'd- ing alternately the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat the whole for a half hour, and then bake in a moderate oven for forty- flve minutes or an hour, using the broom-wisp test. If you ice the cake, add orange juice to the icing. Pearl Cake. Gateau a, la Perle. % Pound of Butter. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. 1 Pound of Flour. V2 Grated Nutmea. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs, whites and yolks separately, and add the yolks. Then beat till very light. Add the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonfjil of boiling water, and then add the milk and beat carefully. Add the flour gradually, and beat vigorously. Then add the spices and essence, and last- ly the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Premium Cake. Gateau Royal. The Whites of 14 Eggs. 1 Pound of Sugar. % Pound of Flour. % Pound Butter. 1 Wineglassful of Good Whisky. The Juice and Grated Zest of 1 Lemon. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and add one-half of the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Then add the, flour gradually, beat- ing thoroughly and well, till very light. Now add the whisky and the lemon juice, and the grated zest of the lemon, and finally add the re- mainder of the whites and the bak- ing powder, beating till very light. Bake in a moderate oven from forty- five minutes to an hour. Pound Cake. 1 Pound of 'Sugar. 1 Pound of Butter. 1 Pound of Flour. 10 Egjs. 1 Teaspoou'ful Baking Powder. 1 Tatilespoonful of Lemon or Vanilla Extract. Wash the salt from one pound of butter. Then take a tablespoon and take out one heaping tablespoonful of butter from the pound. Experience of years in baking pound cakes has taught that a whole pound of butter will make a greasy cake, though many use a pound. If once this lat- ter method is tried, the difference will be apparent in the superior qual- ity of the cake. After washing the butter, beat it with the white pul- verized sugar to a thick cream. Have the baking powder and the flour sifted together. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and then add them to the sugar and butter, beating till very light. Then add a part of the flour, and beat light. Add a part of the whites of the eggs and mix thoroughly. Then alternate with the flour and the whites of the eggs until all are used up. Add the essence of lemon or vanilla and a gill of brandy, and continue beating vigorously for a half hour. Put the 282 batter in a cake pan (a Turk's head), lined with a buttered paper, and bake for one hour in a moderate oven. Use the broom-straw test. If the cake is not quite done, bake a quar- ter of an hour longer. Never touch or move a pound cake in the oven till the center is set. Pound Cake No. 2. 1 Pound of Wliite Pulveiizea Sugar. 10 Fggs. 1 Pouna Sifted Flour. 1 Grated Nutmeff. 1 Wineglassful of Brandy. 1 Pound of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla, Lemon or Rose Water. 1 TeasDoonful of Baking Pawder. Wash the butter and drain, and take out a heaping- teaspoonful. Then beat the remainder to a, rich cream with the sugar, and add the well- beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat till very light, and add a part of the flour, into which you will have sifted the baking powder. Then add a part of the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and continue alternat- ing with the flour and the eggs till all are used up. Then add tlie grat- ed nutmeg, the brandy and the es- sence, and continue beating steadily for a half hour. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Use the broom- wisp test. If it comes out clean and dry the cake is done; otherwise con- tinue baking for a, quarter of an hour longer. Some of the Creoles, in making pound cake, use sixteen eggs, leav- ing out the yolks of four, others use twelve eggs. The above measure- ments will be found exact, and if the cake is properly made it will be delicious. The above measurements will make -a, four-pound cake. IVliite Pound Cake. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pound of Flour. 1 Pound of Butter. The Whites of 16 Eggs. 1 Teaspoon-ful Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract. Wash the butter. Then beat it and the sugar to a fine cream. Add one- quarter of the flour, well-sifted with the baking powder. Then add one- quarter of the whites of tlie eggs, which you will have beaten to a stiff froth. Continue alternating the eggs and flour till all are used. Add the flavoring extract, and beat stead- ily for a half hour. Bake in a mod- erate oven for one hour. Plum Cake or Old-Fashloned Creole 'Weddlns Cake. . Gateau de Noces Crgole k I'Ancienne. 2V4 Pounds' Flour. 1% Pounds Sifted Sugar. 114 Pounds Butter. 1 Pound of Seeded and Chopped Raisins. 1 Pound Chopped and Dried Cherries. 1 Pound of Currants, Washed, Cleansed anj Dried. 12 Eggs. 1 Ounce of Salt. lYs Pounds of Shredded' Orange. Lemon anj Green Citron Peel, Combined. % Pint of French Brandy. V2 Gill of Caramel or Burnt Sugar. Coloring. 8 Ounces of Ground Almonds. The Zest of 4 Oranges. 1 Ounce of Ground Cloves. Cinnamon, Nutmeg and Coriander Seed io Equal Proportions. Work the butter until it becomes very creamy, using a wooden spoon. Then add the sugar, working to a thick cream, and add the yolks of the eggs, well-beaten. Beat till light, and add by degrees the flour, salt and two teaspoonfuls of baking- powder, working the batter all the time. Then add the fruit, -which 3M>ft will have dredged slightly -with flour, working them well into the batter. Add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth, and when all are well incorporated, pour the mixture into a baking pan, lined with double sheets of buttered paper, and place on top thick sheets of paper whicli you set in the oven. Bake in a mod- erate oven, and keep the heat regu- lar and steady all the time, being- careful not to increase or diminish it during the baking. Bake for two hours and a half. This is the largest wedding cake. To make a smaller one, use half the ingredients, and bake half the time. To ice the cake, clear it of the pa- per when it grows cold. Place it on a baking sheet, and cover the top with a coating of Orgeat Paste (see recipe) one and a half inches thick. Let it dry for an hour and then cover with a coating of Plain Icing (see re- cipe) about half an inch in thickness. When this becomes hard, decorate it with a piping around the edges in tasteful designs, mingling artificial buds and blossoms in the decorations. Add a delicate wreath of blush roses. This is the old-fashioned Creole wed- ding cake. Raisin Cake. Gateau de Raisins Sees. ll^ Pounds of Stoned Raisins. 1% Pints of Sugar. 1% Pints of Flour. % Pound of Butter. % Pint of Milk. 6 Eggs. % Gill of White or Sherry Wine. Ms Gill of Brandy. 2% Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Sift the flour and baking powder together. Then beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and 283 then add alternately the whites and flour to the mixture, beating vigor- ously till light. Now add the wine and brandy. Flour the raisins, and shake lightly, till each becomes slightly coated on each side, and add to the cake batter, and then begin to stir lightly, Stirring Just sufficient to mix. Have ready a deep baking pan or two. lined with buttered paper, and bako in a slightly quick oven for from forty-five minutes to an hour. Have a thick layer of paper over the cake for the first half hour of baking. Spanish Cake. Gateau a. I'Espagnole. 1 Pouad of Butter. 1 Pound of Sifted Flour. 1 PouQd of Good Brown SuKar. 6 Well-Beaten Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and then alternately the flour, with which the baking powder has been sifted, and the' whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a buttered cake pan for about an hour in a moderate oven. , Spice Calce. Gateau d'fipices. 1 Pound of Flour. 1 Pound of White Pulveiized Sugar. % of a Pound of Butter. 9 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. ^ Teaspoonrul Ground Allsslce. 1 Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful of Ground Mace. 1 Wineglasstul Brandy. 1 Wlneglassful of Sherry or Madeira. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. 1 Cup of Sour Cream. Vi Teaspoonful of Salt. Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream, and then add the well- beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat till very light. Add half the flour grad- ually, alternating with half the whites of the eggs, which you will have beaten to a thick froth. Then add the spices, the brandy and the wine. Now add gradually the rest of the flour, and then the remainder of the whites of the eggs. Finally adl the sour milk, into which you will have dissolved one teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water. Stir well, and turn into a buttered Turk's head tin. and bake for one hour in a moderate oven. Use the broom-straw test. Spiced Molasses Cake. Gateau d'fipices a, la Melasse. 1 Cup oit Louisiana Jlolnsscs. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Butter. 2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vinegar. 2 Teaspoonfuls Soda. % Teaspoonful Each of Cloves, Allspice and Cinnamon feround). 1 Grated Nutmeg. 3 Cups of Flour. % Teaspoonful of Salt. Warm the molasses and dilute with the vinegar. Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream, and then add the eggs, whites and yolks, well- beaten together. Then add gradually one-half of thei flour and the mo- lasses. Add the grated spices and salt. Beat well. Add the soda, dis- solved in two tablespoonfuls of boil- ing water, and beat well. Bake in a moderate oven from thirty to forty- five minutes. Sponge Cake. Gateau Biscuit de Savoie. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound Flour. The Juice of 1 Bemon. Beat the yolks of the eggs very light, and then add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the juice of the lemon, and add gradu- ally one-half of the flour. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a very stiff froth, so clear that they may be cut with a knife. Add one-half to the cake, and then add the remaining half of the flour. Beat well. Now add the remaining half of the whites, and beat lightly. Pour into a cake pan, lined at the bottom and around with buttered paper, and bake in a quick oven from forty-five minutes to one hour, using the broom-straw test. Cover the cake with a layer of thick brown paper when you first put it in the oven. Keep the heat of the oven steady. The Sponge Cake, next to "Lady Fingers," which are a species of sponge, is the very light- est of cakes. Cream Sponge Cake. Biscuit de Savoie a la CrSme. 2 Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Cream. 2 Cups of Flour. 4 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Essence. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar to a cream. Add the cream, and gradually add .the flour and bak- ing powder, sifted. Add the whites of the eggs, beat lightly, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Qnicli: Sponge Cake. Vitement Fait. .1 Eggs. 1% Cups of Sugar. 2 Cups of Flour. % Cup of Cold Water. 1 Teaspoonful Lemon Extract. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Beat the eggs and sugar to a cream, add the water, and mix well. Then gradually add the flour, alter- nating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth. Bake from thirty to forty-five minutes in a quick oven. 284 ^Vhltc Sponee Cake. Gateau Blanc. m Caps of Pulverized White Sugar. 1 Cup of Flour. The Whites oj 11 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Extract. Beat the whites of the eggs and the sugar to a thick froth. Mix the baking powder and the flour, adding the powder after the fourth sifting. Then add the flour gradu- ally to the eggs, beating lightly and thoroughly. Add the esseaice, and bake for from thirty to forty-five minutes in a quick oven. Tuttl-Pruttl Cake. Gateau Tutti Frutti. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Butter. 1 Teacup of Milk. 2% Teacups of Flour. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Pound of Raisins. 1 Pound of Figs. 1 Potind of Powdered Almonds. The Whites of 7 Ejgs. Take one teacupful of sugar and one of butter and beat to a cream. Add a teacupful of milk and two and a half teaspoonfuls of flour sifted, with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking poMyder; add one pound of raisins, well-seeded, and one pound each of shredded figs and pounded almonds. After mixing all these' well, and the whites of seven eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a slow oven. Wiien done, make a light syrup and spread over the top, and garnish with pieces of finely- cut preserved citron, oranges, pre- served, currants and other candies. A\1ilte Monntaln Cake. Gateau 3- la Montagne Blanche. 1 Pound Sugar. 1% Pounds Butter. 1 Pound of Flour. The Whites of 10 Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Almond Extract. Cream the butter, add the sugar, and beat till very, very light. Add the flour alternately with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and then the essence extract. Bake in a moderate oven one hour. WhMe Cream Cake. Gateau a. la Cr6me. 4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 1 Cup at Sweet Cream. 3 Cups of Sugar. The Whites of 10 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, 1 Teaspoonful of White Rose Extract. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for White Mountain Cake, only addinff the cream Just before adding the flour and the whites of the eggs. TTrelltli Night, or King's Cake. Gateau de Roi. 2 Pounds of the Best Flour. 12 Eggs. 1 Cup of SuEar. 1 Pound of the Best Butter. Vn Ounce of Yeast. 14 Ounce of Salt. Candies to Decorate, This is a Creole cake whose his- tory is the history of the famous New Orleans carnivals celebrated in song and stories. The "King's Cake" or "Gateau de Roi," is inseparably connected with the origin of our now world-famed carnival balls. In fact, they owe their origin to the old Cre- ole custom of choosing a kingr and queen on King's Day, or Twelfth Night. In old Creole New Orleans, after the inauguration of the Span- ish domination and the amalgamation of the French settlers and the Span- ish into that peculiarly chivalrous and romantic race, the Louisiana Creole^ the French prettily adopted many of the customs of their Spanish relatives and vice versa. Among these was the traditional Spanish cel- ebration of King's Day, "Le Jour des ■Bois," as the Creoles always term the day. King's Day falls on January 6, or the twelfth day after Christmas, and commemorates the visit of three Wise Men of the East. to the lowly Bethlehem raanger. This day is even in our time still the Spanish Christ- mas, when gifts are presented in commemoration of the King's gifts. With the Creoles it became "L© Petit Noel," or Little Christmas, and adopting the Spanish custom, there were always grand balls on Twelfth Night: a king and a queen were chosen, and there were constant rounds of festivities, night after night, till the dawn of Ash Wednes- day. Prom January 6, or King's Day, to Mardi Gras Day became the accepted Carnival season. Each week a new king and queen were chosen, and no royal rulers ever reigned more happily that did these kings and queens of a week. The method of first choosing the king was by cutting the "King's Cake." This famous "Gateau de Roi" was made of Brioche Batter. (See recipe.) It was an Immense cake, shaped round like a great ring, and decorated with bonbons, dragees, caramels, etc. When Twelfth Night arrived there was always a flutter in old Creole New Orleans. Gener- ally some grand mansion was chosen for the first ball, and as the evening progressed, when the clock struck twelve, the guests were all invited to be seated around the spacious din- ing room .where the "King's Cake" was brought in. Now, hidden away somewhere in this cake, was a bean, or often as not a magnificent jew- eled ring. The cake was cut Into as many slices as there -were guests, the smiling cavaliers and the lovely Creole maidens ranged around, each of the latter cherishing the wistful hope that she might find the bean, each of the former hoping likewise that he might have the pleasure of choosing as his queen some lovely girl who held his heart. The cake, after being cut, was covered with a 285 h/v» Vk "^P'^i". so that one might have the opportunity of seeing i( the damty morsel had been out near the ring or bean, for often the knife went very, very near, and the dexter- ous manipulator, with a smile, had to remove it an inch further from the marlc. But it was generally so im- bedded in the cake that it was im- possible to detect the least trace. Champagne was passed with the King's Cake, for was it not a royal dish? Suddenly there would be a little flutter. Soma one had found the ring or bean, and all gathered around to congratulate the fortu- nate finder. If a man, he was hailed as the first king of the season, and so, if it were a lady, she was sa- luted as the aueen. If the finder of the bean were a lady, she simply chose her king by presenting him with a bouquet of violets, which was always provided with the cake. If a gentleman found the ring or bean, the uncrowned king would hold it up, and announce that the lady with whom he would make the round of the parlor, or "le tour du salon" would be his queen. Then he would take his stand near the mantel, the music would strike up, and the beau- tiful Dromenade around the room would begin, the gentlemen grace- fully offering thdir arms to the la- dies, the latter laughingly complying with the old custom of passing be- fore the king while hei choose his queen. No doubt there was much secret vexation among those bonny girls as they passed on and on, the king seemingly unable to make a choice. Suddenly, he advanced, and, taking the flower from the lapel of his coat, he presented it to the lady, and, if it happened to be a ring In the cake, often as not it was a mag- nificent diamond, too. .that he pre- sented to her. Then offering his, arm, he . led the promenade, making as lie said, "le tour du salon" with her, and then passing beneath the chandeliers, he would raise his hand, the music ■would cease, and the king would proclaim: "Mes sujets, void votre reinel Recevez ses commande- ments!" Then followed an ovation of smiles, congratulations and hom- age, as though she were indeed a queen succeeding to her born rights. And the honors of that night clung to her ever after, amid sunshine and clouds in the old French Quarter. The prettiest old-time courtesies were connected with the round of balls that followed. These balls were always given at the home of the queen. The king, whether he found the bean of was simply choSen by the lady who had found it. was ex- pected to bear the entire expense of the ball of which he was king, and to provide the next King's Cake. He was also expected, before the end of the week, to make his queen some beautiful jeweled gift. These gifts of Jewels from the king were the only ones th^t the Creole mother ever allowed her daughters to accept from any gentleman. In this custom of presenting the queen of the week with Jewels may be distinctly trace! the present custom of our Carnival kings in presenting the queens with Jewels. And so. week after week, the fes- tivities continued; a King's Cake was cut. a new king and queen chosen, and this continued till the grand culminating ball of Mardi Gras night. A pretty superstition was also con- nected with the King's Cake. The lucky finder of the pecan, or bean, or ring, which was hidden within was henceforth to be favored by fortune. The queen cut the bean in two. and ' gave half of it to her king, and so, if a gentleman found it. The lucky bean was faithfully preserved as a talisman, and in many an old Creole family to-day there is carefully pre- served a little shriveled amulet which was found in the Gateau de Roi on Twelfth Night. To make the cake take a pound and' a half of the above-mentioned qual- ity of flour, and put it in a wooden bread trough. Make a hole in the center of the flour, and put in a half ounce of yeast, dissolved in a little warm water. Add milk or tepid wa- ter to niake the dough, using milk if you want it to be very rich and delicate, and water if you have not the milk. Knead and mix the flour with one hand, while adding the milk or water with the other. M,ake a dough that is neither too stiff nor too soft, and when perfectly smooth set the dough to rise in a moderately warm' place, covering with a cloth. Remember that if you use milk to niake the dough it must be scalded, that is, must be heated to the boiling point, and then allowed to grow tepid. Let the dough rise for five or six hours, and, when increased to twice its bulk, take it and add the reserved half pound of flour, into which you will have sifted the salt. Add six eggs, beaten very light with the sugar and butter, and mix all well together, kneading lightly witli your hands, and adding more eggs if the dough is a little stiff. Then knead the dough by turning it over on itself three times, and set to rise again for an hour or three-quarters of an hour. Cover with a cloth. At the end of this time take it up and work again lightly, and then form into a great ring, leaving, of course, a hole in the center. Pat gently and flatten a little. Have ready a bak- 286 ing- pan with a buttered sheet of paper in it. and set the central roll in the middle. Cover the pan with a clean. stlfE cloth, and set the cake to rise for an hour longer. When well risen, set in an oven a few degrees cooler that that used for baking bread; let bake for an hour and a half; if medium, one hour, and if very small, a half hour. Glace the Brioche lightly with a beaten egg, spread lightly over the top be- fore placing in the oven. Decorate with dragees, caramels, etc. CHAPTER XXXVIII. LAYER CAKES. General Directions. In making layer cakes, always have ready three or four Jelly tins, and bake the cake in layers in the separate tins for fifteen minutes.- Then set to cool, and make the fill- ings and place alternately between tlie layers, a layer of cake always being on top, to admit of icing, if desired. These directions for arranging the filling will hold for almost all layer cake. Layer Cake. To make the layer cake, use any good Sponge, Pound or White Cake recipes, using three-quarters of the proportions of each to make four good layers, and increasing in pro- portion. Bake in jelly tins for fif- teen minutes, and set to cool before adding the filling. Almond Cake. Gateau d'Amandes. 2 Curs of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 2 Tablespoonifuls of Butter. 2 Cups of Flour. Tlie Wliltes of Eggs. 2 Teaspooufuls of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful Lemon Extract. Proceed to cream the butter and sugar. Add the milk, and gradually add the flour and the whites of the eggs alternately, and beat till light.' Add the essence, and bake in jelly tins fifteen minutes. Make a filling as follows; Take two pounds of almonds, blanch them, peel and pound to a flour. Beat the whites of two eggs to a froth with one-half cup of su- gar, and spread on top of the bot- tom layer of cake as a frosting. Place over this a layer of the almonds, and then another layer of frosting. Add a layer of cake, and then go over the same process again till the top layer of cake is reached. Sprinkle with white sugar or ice neatly, ac- cording to taste. Banana Layer Cake. Gateau de Bananes. I 9 Eggs. % Pound of Flour. 1'/^ Cups of Pulverized Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon or Vanilla Extract. 3 Bananas. Prepare four layers of Sponge Cake. (See recipe). Slice the ba- nanas lengthwise very nicely and lay on the bottom layer. Sprinkle with a little pow^dered sugar, and then spread a little Cream Sauce which has been made to the consistency of Cream Puff Filling. (See recipe.) Over this put on the second layer of cake; cover nicely with the ba- nanas and the Cream Sauce, and proceed thus till the top layer is placed over the bananas. Then sprinkle with white sugar or Ice, ac- cording to taste. Chocolale Layer Cake. Gateau au Chocolat. A Layer Cake. (See recipe). 1 Cup of Pow- dered Susar. 1 Cup of Milk or Water. 4 Ounces of Choc- olate. The Whites of 2 Eggs. Make a layer cake. Boll four ounces of chocolate in one cup of milk or water. Add one cup of su- gar, and let it boil till thick. Spread between the layers of cake. Or take four ounces of chocolate, melt with a little boiling water, just sufficient to majce a paste, and work till smooth. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, add four ta- blespoonfuls of white sugar, and then proceed as in Almond Layer Cake, having a layer of chocolate on top. 287 Coconnut Layer Cake. Gateau au Coco. 4 Layers of Cake. (See Layer Cake Recipe.) The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Powderea Sugar. 2 Cups of Grateil Cocoauut. White Sugar to Sprinlile. Make a good layer cake. Beat the ■whites of two eggs till very frotliy. Add one cup of powdered sugar, and beat till very, stiff. Grate the cocoa- nut, and ihen proceed as in filling the Almond Cake, having a layer of the cocoanut on top, sprinkled with -white sugar. (See recipe.) Cream Layer Cake. Gateau a. la Cr&me. 4 Layers of Sponge Cake. (See recipe). The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Pulverized. Sugar. 2 Teaspoontulg of Cream. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Make a layer sponge cake. Pre- pare a filling by beating together the yolks of two eggs, one cup of pulverized sugar, two tablespoonfuls of cream, and one teaspoonful of A'anilla. Beat and mix thoroughly to a thick cream, and spread between the layers, with a layer of cake on top. Pig Layer Cake. ~ Gateau aux Fisues. 4 Layers of Sponge Cake. (See Eeeipe), 1 Pound of Chopped Figs. 1 Cup of Sugar. Va Cup of Water. Make a layer cake — any good white, sponge or cream. Bake in jelly tins. Boil one pound of chopped figs, one cup of sugar, and one-half cup of water, till the figs form a jelly. Spread, when cool, between the layers of cake, while they are still hot, and proceed as in A-lmond Layer Cake. Jelly Layer Cake. Gateau a, la GelSe. t Layers of Cake. (See Recipe Layer Cake). 1 Cup of Pineapple, Peach, Raspberry or any Jelly. Make a layer cake, and spread, while hot, with any kind of jelly, peach, lemon, raspberry, apple, straw- berry, or the like. Lemon Layer Cake. Gateau au Citron. The Grated Rind and Juice of 1 Lemon. 4 Layers of Cake. (See recipe.) 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Egg. 1 Teaspoonful of Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Elour. Make a good layer sponge or cup cake. Prepare a good layer filling of creamed lemon by taking one cup of sugar, one egg, the grated rind and Juice of one lemon, one teaspoon- ful of water and one of flour. Blend the sugar, water and flour, and add the well-beaten egg. Add the rin(?, and juice of the lemon. Boil in a bain-marie (a kettle set in a kettle of hot water), and let it thicken. Spread between the layers, and ice, or sprinkle with sugar. Orange Layer Cake. Gateau a. I'Orange. i Layers of Pound or Cup Cake. (See recipe.) The Whites of 2 Eggs. 3 Cups of Sugar. The Grated Rind and Juice of 1 Orange. Juice of Half a Lemoc. 1 Teaspoonful of Grange Extract. Make a good layer, pound or cup cake. Then make a filling of the whites of two eggs, three cups of sugar, the grated rind and juice of one orange, half a lemon's juice, two teaspoonfuls of orange extract. Mix all thoroughly, and spread between the layers of the cake. Pecan Layer Cake. Gateau aux Pecanes. 4 Layers of Cup or Sponge Cake. The Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Minced Louisiana Pecans. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract. Make a good Layer Cake or Cup Cake. (See recipe.) Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth. Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one cup of minced and pounded pe- cans. Add one teaspoonful of ex- tract of lemon, and fill the cake, leaving a layer of the filling on top. This is a typical Creole cake. Instead of mincing the pecans for the layers, some cooks shell them in halves. This is a matter of taste. Pineapple Layer Cake. Gateau k 1' Ananas. % Pound of Flour. I'A Cups of Pulverized Sugar. 9 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon or Pineapple Extract. 1 Pineapple. Prepare four layers of sponge cake. Pare the pineapple, being careful to cut out all the eyes and the core. Grate the fruit very fine. Place a layer of the fruit over the bottom lay- er of the cake, sprinkle with a little powdered sugar and then spread over this a little Cream Sauce, which has been made to the consistency of Cream Puff Filling. (See recipe.) Put a second layer of the cake over this, cover nicely with the grated pine- apple, sugar and Cream Filling, and proceed thus till the top layer Is placed over the pineapple. Then ice or sprinkle with white sugar. 288 Raisin Cake. Gateau aux Raisins Sees. 4 Layers of Pound or Cup Cake. (See recipe.) ^ Pound of Raisins. 14 Pound of Citron. H Teaspoonful Eacli of Ground Cloves, Ciu- namoD, Allspice and Nutmeg. . Frostins to Coyer. Make a good Pound or Cup Cake. (See recipes.) Bake in tins, taking out enoug-h to All three tins. Tiien add to the remaining batter one-half teaspoonful each of ground cloves, allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg, and one-quarter pound each of raisins, seeded, and citron, chopped very fine. Mix thoroughly, and bake in two layers. • Place between the other layers, alternating with a frosting, as in Almond Layer Cake. (See re- cipe.) RainboTV Cake. Gateau a, I'Aro-en-Ciel. 6 Layers of Sponge or of Pound Cake. 3 Ounces of Pink Icinjj. 3 Ounces of Violet Icins. 3 Ounces of Chocolate Icing. 3 Ounces of Vanilla Icing. 3 Ounces of Wliite Icing. Make a good layer cake, either Pound or Sponge. Prepare the Cream Icings (see recipes under Chapter Icings for Cakes). Place these be- tween the alternate layers in the or- der above given. Ice the cake nicely. This is a very pretty cake. Layer Cake of Fresh Fruits, Gateau aux Fruits. 4 Layers of White or Gold Cake. (See recipes.) 3 Apples. 2-3 of a Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange or Lemon Extract. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 4 Tablespoonfula of Powdered Sugar. Make a good White Cake or Gold Cake. (See recipes.) Pare and grate three apples, and cook them with two-thirds of a cup of sugar. When they come to a thick jelly, take off the stove and flavor with Lemon or Orange extract. Take the whites of two eggs, beat till very light, and then add four tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and beat till very stiff, so stiff that the whites can stand alone. Spread a layer of this on the top of the bottom layer of cake, add a layer of apples, spread another layer of frosting, cover with a layer of cake, and so continue till all is used up. Strawberry layer cake, peach rasp- berry, apricot, orange, pineapple and all fresh fruit layer cakes may be made in the same manner. Only in the orange and pineapple do not cook the pineapple or orange. Simply grate four or five oranges, or one pineapple, and spread the pineapple in layers between the frosting. These cakes, properly made, are most deli- cious. CHAPTER XXXIX. DESSERT CAKES. Patisserie Pine "Four Dessert. Des Bonohees, Macarons, Massepalns, Meringues, Melees, Creoles. Biscuits aux Amandes et aux Pis- taches, Amandes Souffles, etc. Perhaps no cuisine can boast of such a number of delicious small cakes that may serve for desserts, both elegant and choice, as the Creole cuisine. The native ijngenuity of the Creole chefs adapted many of the nuts and fruits of Louisiana to va- rious forms of sweetened batter, and the result of their efforts, handed down from generation to genera- tion, is given in the following care- fully compiled recipes, which, per- haps, after our unique "Gum- bos," "Courtbouillons," "Bouilla- baise," "Ragouts" and "Jambalayas," will serve better than any other re- cipes to give a true idea of the in- finite variety and delight of the prop- erly conducted Creole kitchen. They will also give a glimpse into the In- terior life of the Creole household. some of them, especially, being as- sociated with pleasant, simple forms of "soirees," that, alas! have almost passed a:way since the intercourse of the old BYench quarter with the American city above Canal Street has become so general. Advice and Instructions for Baking These Cakes. Use the best materials. It always pays in the delicate and perfect taste of the cake. ' Soda, if not properly dissolved, will gi.ve to cakes' and biscuits a bad, greenish color. Keep the cake out of the draft while beating and baking. All the following cakes, as, indeed, all cakes, should be baked in their own steam, that is, keep the door and damper shut till the cakes have\ finished spreading. Then, if the oven is hot enough, you may open the damper. This gives the cake a light, bright 289 color. Remember meringues and other large cakes are not intended in these instructions. For meringues the oven must never be very hot. If you are expert at baiting, you may test the heat of the oven simply by touching the handle of the oven door, but a sure test for beginners is to throw a little cornmeal or flour in the center of the oven, count ten, and if the flour begins to smoke be- fore you count the full number the oven is too hot, if it smokes at ten the oven has the proper heat. Never put flavoring extracts di- rectly into the flour, or they will form lumps. Always put them in the wet part of the mixture. BOUCH£S. These are a delicious form of des- sert cakes, and are considered both elegant and recherche. Great care must be taken to trim the cakes evenly and of equal size before at- tempting to finish them. Bouchfis are made with batter and also with almost all our Louisiana fruits. As the name indicates Bouchfies are sim- ply "a mouthful." Boucb^es de Dames. S Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. 1 Cup of Currant or Other Jelly for FiUlng. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare a sponge or cup cake bat- ter. (See recipe under chapter "Cakes.") Have ready a baking sheet, which you will cover w^ith white writing paper. Lay the batter out on the paper by forcing it through a biscuit cutter in rounds that will measure one inch and a half in diam- eter. They will spread. Dredge the surface with white sugar very light- ly, and bake them for about fifteen minutes or less, until they are a light color. Then trim nicely and place them upon a wire drainer. Place circular pieces of currant or other preserves on top, and garnish with a meringue or Transparent Icing. (See recipe.) Set in the stove or the sun to dry, and in ten minutes they will be ready to serve. BonchSes With Oranges. Bouch6s aux Oranges. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour. The Juice of 1 Orange or 1 Tablespoonful of Extract. 1 Cup of Orange Marmalade. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare the cake drops as directed above, with sponge or cup cake bat- ter Then place thin slices of or- anges cooked in syrup on the Bou- chges (see Orange Marmalade), and gloss them over with Transparent Icing. (See recipe.) Flavor the bat- ter of these BouchSes with the zest of an orange or with CuraQoa Liq- ueur. (See recipe.) BouchecB With Peaches. Bouchfies aux Peches. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Noyau Extract. 1 Cup of Preserved Peaches. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare the drop cakes as directed in "BouchSes de l!)ames." Place halves of peaches, preserved in syrup, over them (home-made preserves), and gloss over with Transparent Icing, flavored with Noyau, and slightly tinged with Carmine. (See recipe.) In preparing all these bouchges, do not allow any excess of moisture from the ' preserves. The syrup should become entirely absorbed into the bouchge before you attempt to gloss is with the icing. Bouchfies with apricots or cher- ries are prepared in the same way, using, in the former casew a flavor- ing of Cedrati liQueur, and in the latter Maraschino. In making bouch^es with preserves use any kind of marmal'ade to stick two bouchSes together, and ice the surface. BonchSes With Pineapples. Bouch6es aux Ananas. 9 Eggs.' 1 Pound of Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour. 1 Cup of Preserved Pineapples. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare the drop cakes one inch and a half in diameter. Place small- er slices of thin, preserved pineapple upon each, and gloss or glacer over with Transparent Icing (see recipe), flavoring with pineapple syrup. MACAROONS. Macarons. 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds. 1 Ounce of Butter. 2 Pouuds of Sifted Sugar. The Whites o£ 6 Bgss. Blanch or scald the almonds by throwing them into a pan of boiling water, and letting them remain on the fire until you can take one of the almonds between your fingers and easily push off the skin by push- ing it between the finger and thumb. Then drain and cool the almonds in cold water, and drain again. Rub the almond skins or hulls off with your hands in a cloth, throw the al- monds . in cold water with a little salt, wash clean, drain and dry them in another cloth. The almonds must be cold before you put them into a mortar. Then pound them to a pulp 290 that will be as smooth as flour. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Add a little of the sugar and a little of the eggs as you pound, to pre- vent the almonds from becoming oily. .Hemember always that the paste must be kept firm as you add the remainder of the sugar and the eggs. Have ready a baking sheet, on which you will have placed a but- tered piece of wafer paper. Liay the macaroons out on this, by dropping them from the spoon, in the form of a guinea iowl egg. Be very careful to place the macaroons about an inch apart, so that the balls will not touch one another. When the sheet is full, pass a wet paste brush gently over their surface!. Put them in the oven, and bake at a very moderate heat till they are a light, delicate brown or fawn color. When done, take out and set to cool, and take away any excess of wafer paper that may cling to the edges. Keep in a dry place. Cbocnlate Maoaroons. Macarons au ' Chocolat. 12 Ounces of Ground Almonds. 1% Pounds of Sifted White Sugar., 4 Ounces of Grated French Chocolate. The Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl, and let it form a stiff paste. Then lay the macaroons out upon the wafer sheet in the form of lady fing- ers. Bake at a very moderate heat till a light brown, Creole Macaroons. Macarons a, la Creole. 12 Ounces of Shredded Almonds. 4 Ounces of Ground Almonds. 1 Pound of Sugar. 2 Eggs. 4 Ounces of Wheat Flour. The . Zest oif 2 Oranges. Blanch and wash and dry the al- monds. Then grind (not pound) four ounces. Shred twelve ounces, that is. After skinning, cut the almonds lengthwise into thin shreds by divid- ing each almond into at least five or six long shreds, or cut them cross- wise, and the shreds will be shorter. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the whites separately, and then beat them together with the sugar, rub- bing till very light and smooth. Add the grated zest of two Louisiana oranges, that has been rubbed on su- gar, and then incorporate all the other ingredients. Roll the paste out into balls about the size of an egg. Place them on buttered wafer paper on a baking sheet, set in a moderate oven, and bake to a light color. Plstacliio Macaroons. Macaroons aux Pistaches. 4 Ounces of Bitter Almonds. 6 Ounces of Shredded Pistachio Kernels or Peanuts. 12 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. Blanch the almonds and then pound them well. Mix with the whites of the eggs till thoroughly pulverized. Then mix with the shredded pis- tachio kernels or peanuts, and stir well. Pill a biscuit forcer with the preparation, and drop the macaroons in round balls about the size of a hickory nut upon a wafer sheet of paper, and spread upon a baking sheet. Bake in a moderate oven till very slightly colored. Spanish Macaroons. Macarons St I'Espagnole. 8 Ounces of Sweet Almonds. 1 Pound of Sugar. Yolks of 12 Eggs. Grated Zest of 2 Oranges. 1 Teaspoontul of Vanilla. Boil the sugar almost to a syrup, and then add the pounded almonds, and let them simmer gently for five minutes add the flavoring and let them simmer Ave minutes longer over a slow fire of smothered char- coal. Stir occasionally, and at the end of ten minutes add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light. Then stir the paste over the kitchen fire with a quickened heat until it becomes firm and compact. Remove from the flre, and when it is cool roll it in your hands, ■which should be slight- ly greased with oil of sweet al- monds. Lay them out in small cakes on wafer paper, spread on a baking sheet, and bake at a quick heat. CROftUIGJTOLES. 8 Ounces of Sweet Almonds. 4 Ounces of Bitter Almonds. Whites of 4 Eggs. 1^ Pounds of Fine Sugar. Scald, skin and wash and dry the almonds, as directed in "Macarons," and then pound them into a pulp adding the whites of the egss grad- ually, remembering always that they must be beaten to a stiff froth. Then work in the sugar, and you will have a firm paste. Drop these in small balls upon wafer paper, spread upon a baking sheet of tin or iron, in distinct and separate rows. Pass a little brush, moistened with water, lightly on their surface, and bake in a very slack oven till a very light color. 291 PETITS FOURS. 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds. 1 Ounce of Butter. 2 Pounds of Sifted Flour. The Whites of 8 Eggs. Royal Icing to Garnish, Prepare the paste as above di- rected, keeping it somewhat stiffier and firmer, however. Add two whites of eggs of Royal Icing (see recipe), and work both together till thor- oughly incorporated. Pill the biscuit forcer, and push the macaroons through upon buttered wafer paper, as directed. Petits Pours must be baked in a very moderate oven. Otherwise the excessive heat will cause the maca- ■ roons to run into one another, and produce a useless mass. The Royal Icing necessitates the moderate oven. The Petits Pours are then put In pretty plaited paper cases. MASSEPAINS (Plain). Massepains (simple). 12 Ounces of Sweet Almonds. 1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. The Whites of 4 Eggs. 1% Pounds of Sifted Sugar. Scald, skin, wash and dry the almonds. Then pound them to a flour in a mortar with the whites of the eggs. When well-pulverized, beat well. Mix In the sugar by pounding it, and then take up the paste and put it in a bowl. Beat well, keeping it very firm. If soft, add sugar, to render firmer. Strew the wafer sheet, spread on a baking sheet, with white pulverized sugar. Cut the masse- pains into lengths of two or three inches, and twist them into fancy shapes, diamonds, hearts, rings, tri- angles, etc., on the wafer sheet. Then set in the oven, and bake to a very light color. Massepains SouflI£s. 12 Ounces of Sweet Almonds. 1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. '1% Pounds of Sifted Sugar. 1 Ounce at Vanilla Sugar. The Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 White of Egg Iloyal IcInR. Prepare the paste exactly as above, and when you take it up in the bowl add the Royal Icing, keeping the paste firm. Spread the massepains upon wafer sheets, using only the ring shape, and bake in a slack oven till a very light color. Strawberry Massepains. Massepains a. la Praise. 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds. 8 Ounces of Sugar. 6 Ounces of Crushed Strawberries. Pound the almonds, and then pro- ceed as In plain Massepains, adding the strawberries after you will have strained them through a ^ieve. Any kind of fruits or marmalades may be used in this manner for Fruit Massepains. SOUFFLfiS. 2 Pounds of Powdered White Sugar. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Ounce of Orange Flower Water. . To two pounds of powdered sugar add the whites of two eggs and one ounce of Orange Flower Water. Make of all a firm, consistent paste, add- ing more sugar, if necessary. Roll out on a sheet of paper, sprinkled with sugar, and cut into little pieces, which you will form into balls about the size of a nut. Place them on a wafer sheet on a baking sheet at a distance of two inches, so that they will not touch one another, should they run. Bake in a moderate oven. Almonds Souffles. Amandes Soufflfis. 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds. The White of 1 Egg. 12 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. Blanch, skin, wash and dry one pound of sweet almonds, and then cut them into very small pieces. Add the white of one egg, beaten to a thick froth, and twelve ounces of powdered sugar. When well- mixed drop upon sheets of white paper, and bake to a very light color in a moderate oven. Pistachio Souffles, SouflUgs aux Pistaches. 10 Ounces of Pistachio Kernels or Peanuts. 1^ Pounds of Fine Sugar. Whites of 3 Eggs. 4 Drops Essence of Koses. 2 Whites of Eggs of Royal Icing. (See Recipe Royal Icing.) If you cannot procure the Pistachio Kernels, use Peanuts, which are called "Pistaches" by the Creoles. Scald, skin, wash and dry the pis- tachios or peanuts. Pound them with two ounces of sugar, adding occa- sionally some of the whites of the eggs, until reduced to a pulp. Then add all the sugar, gradually working it into the paste on a marble slab, being careful to have the slab and the hands very clean. Roll out paste with sugar to the thickness of a Quarter of an inch on the slab. Spread the icing evenly over, and cut into various fanciful shapes. Place the cakes o,n the sheet wafer or lay on baking sheet, and bake in a slow heat to a very light color. . 292 Rose SoufH^s. Souffles a la Rose. 2 Pounds ■ Powdered White Suear. The Whites of 2 Egss. 1 Ounce of Orange Flower Water. A Pinch of Carmine Powder. To two pounds of powdered sugar add the whites of two eggs and one ounce of Orange Flower Water and a little pinch of Carmine Pow- der. Make of all a firm, consistent paste, adding more sugar, if neces- sary. Boll out on a sheet of paper, sprinkled with sugar, then cut the paste into little pieces, which you will form into balls about the size of a nut. Place them on a wafer sheet on a baking sheet at a dis- tance of two inches apart, so that they will not touch one another, should they run. Bake in a moderate oven. Almond and Peanut Biscuit. Biscuits aux Amandes et aux Pis- taches. 4 Ounces of Sweet Almonds. 4 Ounces of Pistachio Kernels or Peanuts. 4 Eggs. 8 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. Blanch, peel and pound the al- monds and pistachio kernels or pea- nuts in a mortar till finely pulver- ized, adding the white of an egg, to keep the almonds from turning oily. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth, and then add the yolks, beaten separately to a cream with the sugar. Beat well, and incorporate thorough- ly. Add four tablespoonfuls of flour, sifted well, and mix well. Place in small cakes on wafer sheets of pa- per, and bake in a moderate oven till a very light color. Ciiocoiate Biscuits. Biscuits au Chocolat. 6 Fresh Creole Eggs. 1 Ounce of Powdered French Chocolate. 4 Ounces of Flour. 10 Ounces of Pulverized Sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the BUgar to a cream. Add the choco- late, and mix well. Then add the flour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add one tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract, and bake upon wafer sheets in small cakes to a light color. Cinnamon Biscuits, Biscuits a. la Canelle. 6 Fresh Creole Eggs. 1 Ounce of Powdered French Chocolate. 4 Ounces of Flour. 10 Ounces of Pulverized Sugar. Ground Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful of Cinnamon Extract. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the cinnamon to a cream; Add the chocolate, and mix well. Then add "the flour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add one tablespoonful of Vanilla Ex- tract, and bake upon wafer sheets in small cakes to a light color. Citron Biscuits. Biscuits au Citron, 6 Fresh Creole Eggs. The Zest of 1 Citron. 4 Ounces of Flour. 12 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Beat the eggs and sugar to a cream, add the flour gradually, and the Juice of the lemon and citron zest, and beat well. Bake on paper sheets in the form of small wafers, very thinly spread, in a moderate oven to a light color. Creole Biscuits. Biscuits a la Creole. 4 Ounces of Grated Lemon., 4 Ounces of Orange Flower Marmalade. 4 Ounces of Apricot or Peach Marmalade. The Whites of 4 Engs. Mix the fruits and lemon thor- oughly together, and then add three ounces of white pulverized sugar and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Place tbe mixture in small cakes on white paper, and bako lightly. Then cover with sugar beaten with the white of an egg, in meringue form, and bake to a light brown. Filbert Biscuits. Biscuits aux Avelines. 4 Ounces of Sweet Almonds, 4 Ounces of Filberts. The Whites of 4 Eggs. 8 Ounces of Powdered Sugar, Blanch, peel and pound the al- mond and .filbert kernels in a mortar till finely pulverized, adding the white of an egg, to keep the al- monds from turning oily. Beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, and then add the yolks, beatSn sep- arately to a cream with the sugar, incorporate thoroughly, and beat well. Add four tablespoonfuls of flour, sifted well, and mix well. Place in small cakes on vrafer sheets of paper, and bake in a moderate oven till a very light color. Lemon Biscuit. Biscuit au Citron. 6 FresE Creole Eggs. The Zest of 1 Lemon. 4 Ounces of Flour. 12 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon or 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Extract. Beat the eggs and sugar to a cream, add the flour gradually, and the juice and zest of a lemon, and beat well. Bake on paper sheets in 293 the form of small wafers, very thinly spread, in a moderate oven, to a light color. Oranse Biscuits. Biscuits a, rOrange. 6 Fresli Creole Eggs. The Zest of 1 Orange. 4 Ounces of Flour, 12 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. Tlie Juice of 1 Oranae. Beat the eggs and sugar to a cream, add the 'flour gradually, and the juice and zest of the orange, and beat well. Bake on paper sheets, in the form of small wafers, very thinly spread, in a moderate oven, to a light color. Vanilla Biscuits. Biscuits k la Vanille. 6 Fresh Creole Eggs. 1 Ounce of Vanilla Sugar. 4 Ounces of Flour. 10 Ounces of Pulverized Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar to a cream. Add the choc- olate, and mix well. Then add the flour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add one tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract, and bake upon wafer sheets in small cakes to a light color. Fraseati Croquantes. Croquantes Fraseati. 8 Ounces of Flour. 6 Ounces of Sugar. 2 Ounces of Ground Almonds. 2 Whole Eggs and 3 Yolks. 1 Ounce Aniseed. Break the eggs into a bowl, and beat light, and add the sugar and beat very light; add the almonds, pounded to a powder, and the ani- seed. Beat all together till well incorporated. Add the flour and beat thoroughly. Have a marble slab clean and dry. Roll the paste out on the slab in the form of a long, thick rope. Then take a knife and cut it Into cieces about the size of a guinea egg. Roll each between the palms of your hands, and shape them into oval balls. Have a but- tered sheet of paper on a baking sheet. Make a slight incision into each cake by pressing the back of the knife across the surface. Brush the egg over them, and sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar, and bake in a moderate heat to a light color. Creole Wafers. Gaufres 3. la Cr§ole. 9 Ounces of Flour. i Ounces of Sifted Sugar. 8 Eggs. 1 Wineglassful of Noyau. 1 Pint Whipped Cream. ] TaBlespoonful of Vanilla. A Pinch of Salt. Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs to a cream. Add the Noyau and salt. Vanilla and flour, and in- corporate thoroughly till light. Then add the whites of the eggs and tho cream. Mix all lightly together, tak- ing great care that all are well- mixed. Bake very, very light in wa- fer irons. The irons should be heated over a clear charcoal Are, and when hot brush inside with a little clari- fied butter. A large spoonful of but- ter should be poured into the under- sheet of the wafer irons, then close in, and bake to a golden brown color. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. These wafers are delicious, handed around witli ices. Ginger "Wafers. Gaufres au Gingembre. 1 Large Spoon of Ground Ginger. 4 Ounces of 'Molasses. 8 Ounces of Flour. 8 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. ' Whites of 4 Eggs. Vi Pint of Cream. 1 Wineglassful of Brandy. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs to a cream and add it to the flour and milk, salt and sugar, molasses and ginger. "Work all well together very light in a bowl, until you have a smooth batter. Add the brandy and Ginger Extract and beat vigorously ten minutes longer. Have ready the "wafer irons and a clear charcoal fire. Brush the irons "with butter and pla.ce the "wafers within and bake on both sides to a light fawn color. Frencli "Wafers. Gaufres Frangaises. 8 Ounces of Flour. 8 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. Whites of 4 Eggs. Vi Pint of Cream. 1 Wineglassful of Brandy. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. ■ Beat the whites of the eggs to a cream and add to the flour, milk, salt and sugar. Work all together very light in a bowl, until you have a very smooth batter. Add the bran- dy and beat vigorously ten minutes longer. Have ready tHe wafer irons and a clear charcoal fire. Brush the irons with butter and place the wa- fers within and bake on both sides to a light brown color. If desired, the wafers may be rolled into fancy shapes. SpanlsU W^afers. Gaufres Espagnoles 9 Ounces of Flour. 2 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. % Pint of Chocolate Water. 12 Drops of Essence of Vanilla. 2 Eggs. 2 Gills of Cream. Prepare the chocolate water by dissolving "well two ounces of French chocolate in a half pint of boiling 294 water. Place the sugar, vanilla, eggs and cream in a pan, work all vigorously into a smooth, light bat- ter, add the cold Chocolate Water, beat all together well for ten minutes longer. Then bake the wafers, as directed in recipe for French "Wa- fers, and curl in the form of cornu- copias while still warm and able to retain impressions. Cream Puffs. Choux a. la CrSme. 1 Cup of Flour. Va Cup of Butter. i Eggs. 1 Cup of Wafer. Set the water to boil, and while boiling, stir in. the butter. Then add the flour, and stir continually till the paste leaves the sides of the saucepan. Set the mixture to cool. When cool, stir one after another, the three eggs in, without beating them. After adding the last egg, beat very vigorously for about four minutes; then drop by tablespoonfuls on buttered tins, and set in the oven to bake from twenty to thirty min- utes. Watch carefully so that they will not burn. When cold make an opening inside, through the side of the paste, with a sharp knife, and fill It with the following custard: 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Sugar. 3 Eggs. 1 Teaspoontul of Vanilla. 1 Tablespoouiful of Cornstarch. .Hub the cornstarch in a little water and add it to the boiling milk. Let it boil three minutes, stirring con- stantly. Beat the eggs, without sep- arating, and the sugar till light, and add to the boiling milk. Add the vanilla, stirring all well. Fill the cakes and set away to cool. Chocolate £clairs. Eclairs du Chocolat. 1 Cup of Flower. 1 Cup of Water. 4 Eggs. 1^ Cup ot Water. 2 Ounces of Chocolate. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sufiar. Make a Cream Puff Paste as above. Put into a tube or a pastry bag and press out upon well-buttered tins in the shape of Lady Fingers. This will give the iiclairs the right shape, making them about five inches long. Set them to bake in a Quick oven twenty or thirty minutes. If the oven is ot the right temperature, and the cakes are properly baked, they will be hollow within and very daintily crusted without. Fill in with a mixture made by melting two ounces of chocolate and four ounces of powdered sugar, and set away to cool. Tou may ice by dipping one end into the icing, and then setting away to dry. The ificlalrs may be filled with preserved fruits, Orange Icing, Whipped Cream, or any mar- malade. Pineapple ficlatrs. :ficlairs a, I'Ananas. 1 Cup of Flour. 1 Cup ot Water. 4 Eggs. % Cup ot Water. 2 Ounces of Preserved Pineapple or Pineapple Mousse. Pineapple Siclairs are made, in the same manner as Chocolate Eclairs (see recipe), only they are filled in with preserved pineapple or Pineap- ple Mousse. Cup Cake. P6tits Gateaux. 1 Cup ot Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Sour Cream. 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Brandy. 1 Tablespoonjful of Hose or Vanilla Extract. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and then add the cream. Mix thoroughly, and sift in gradu- ally the flour, beating thoroughly. Add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and the brandy and rose water. Now dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in a little sweet milk and add, being very careful that there are no lumps in the soda. Beat well for a few minutes and bake at once, in small tins or cups, which you will grease well with butter and only half fill with the cake batter. Jelly Cake. Gateau aux Confitures. 1 Cup ot Butter. 2 Cups of Sugar. 4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Sour Cream. 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful ot Brandy. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. 3 Ounces of Currant, Grape or any Jelly Desired. Prepare the batter exactly as for Cup Cake or Sponge Cake, butter the small tins and pour in the batter in such thin layers as to allow the cakes to be just a half inch thick when baked. Let them bake for a few minutes to a light brown, and " as they are taken from the oven lay them on the table and spread a layer of Currant or Grape Jelly between; then add alternate layers of cake and jelly, reserving the prettiest cakes for the top layers. Do not put jelly on this. Ice or powder with sifted sugar. Ctuecn Cake. Gateau a. la Reine. 1 Found of Flour. 4 Ounces of Susar. 1 Pound of Currants. 1 Pound ot Butter. 1 Teacnptul of Cream. 8 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful ot Rose Water. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, and then add the well-beaten 295 yolks of the eggs. Now add the cream, and then one-half of the flour, and next one-half of the whites of the egg-s, beaten to a stiff froth. Add the remainder of the flour. Into which you will have dredged the currants that have been well-washed cleansed and picked and dried; mix thoroughly, and add the remainder of the whites and the rose water. Beat as you would a pound cake. Then pour into small, buttered tins and bake immediately to a light brown. Tea Cakes. Gateau de Th6. 1 Pound of Flour. % Pound oe Butter. 4 Eggs. 6 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. V4 Cup of Sour Milk. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the well-beaten eggs, and incorporate thoroughly. Add the milk, and then gradually add the flour, making a light soft dough. Mix all well together, and roll the paste out very thin. Cut into rounds or squares, and put into a slightly but- tered baking pan. Bake to a bright yellow, and serve as needed. Some brush the tops of the cakes with beaten eggs, and sprinkle the tops with raisins or currants, well seeded and washed and dried. Cocoannt Fingers. Biscuits a, la Cuiller au Coco. 4 Ounces of Butter. 4 Onuces of Sugar, 3 Eggs. 2 Ounces of Flour. 4 Ounces of Grated Cocoanut. Beat the butter, sugar and eggs together for five minutes, blending thoroughly. Then add the flour, and Immediately after the grated cocoa- nut. Beat well, and have ready but- tered tins. Divide the mixture into fingers of about four or five inches in leng-th. bake in a moderately quick oven ' for thirty minutes, and when cool dust with powdered sugar. Lady Fingers. Biscuits a, la Cuiller. % of a Pound of Flour. 4 Ounces of Powdered Wliite Sugar. 5 Eggs. Put the sugar and the yolks of the eggs into a bowl and beat thoroughly till very light. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and add the flour. Mix well and add immediately the whites of the eggs. Beat all to- gether gently for a few minutes, and the preparation is ready for baking. Have ready a long sheet of paper, spread on a baking tin. Take a ta- blespoon and drop the batter along the paper, in lengths of four or five inches, being careful to leave an empty space of an inch between each cake; set to bake in a very moderate oven. The cakes must not spread or rise. If they rise, the oven is too hot, and if they spread, you may be sure the oven is too cool. Bake to a very light brown, for twenty min- utes, in a moderate oven. Petits Ginger Xuts. Gateaux au Gingembre. 2 Pounds of Flour. 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Molasses. 1^ Pound of Brown Sugar. % Pound of Butter. A Pinch of Salt. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Ginger. Vi Teaspoonful of Soda. % Pint of Mllli or Water. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; work in the flour and mix well; add the molasses and mix well. Then add the milk, into which you will have dissolved the soda thor- oughly, and beat well; add the ginger and continue working lightly till thoroughly mixed. Then roll out and cut in various fanciful shapes and bake to a light brown. Ginger Snaps. Gateaux Sees au Gingembre. 2 Cups of Molasses. 1 Cup of Lard or Butter. 1 Cup of Sugar. yit Cup of Sour Cream. 1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger. 2 Eggs. 2% Teaspoonfuls of Soda. Flour Sufficient to Roll Thick. Mix all the ingredients as above, only making th6 batter slightly stiflEer, and cut into, fancy shapes and bake in a quick oven. Jumbles. Mel6e-Cr6ole. 1 Pound of Butter. % Pound of Flour. 4 Eggs. 14 Pound of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Hose Water. ^ Grated Nutmeg. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the eggs, thoroughly beaten, and the add the Rose "Water and the nutmeg. Gradually add the flour, and beat well. Beat till very light before adding the 'flour. Dust a paper on a baking sheet with su- gar, instead of flour, and roll ou.t the paste to about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. Then use a small cutter with a round center, and take the centers oiit, thus forming pretty rings. Bake. in a moderate oven till a light brown. Take them out and sift powdered sugar over them. 296 Madeleines, 5 Eggs. % Pound of Powdered .Sugar. % Pound of Sifted Flour. % Pound of Butter. Washed and Drained. ^ Teaspoonful of Vaniila. Grated Kind of a Lemon. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream and add the yolks of the eggs, the lemon rind and the vanilla, and beat till very, very light. Then add the flour, beating constantly, and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into buttered tins, and bake in a. quick oven till a deli- cate brown. Serve cold. These are delicious supper cakes. Pop-Overs. Vitement Fait. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Flour. 3 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, 1 TeasDoonful of Salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs sep- arately till very light and fro'thy. Stir in the unskimmed milk and the flour that has been twice sifted with the baking powder. Add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; pour the mixture into buttered cake tins; bake in a Quick oven till a light brown, and serve either hot or cold. Anise DTops. Gateau d'Anis. I 3 Cups of Sugar. 6 Eggs. 1 Quart of Fiour. % Teaspoonful at Essence of Anise, Beat the sugar and eggs for about half an hour. Add the flour gradu- ally, and the essence. Beat well. Have ready buttered sheets of tin, and drop the mixture from the spoon, and bake to a delicate brown. Spice Drops, Biscuits d'fipices. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. % Cup of Sweet Milk. 3 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Molasses. 3 Tablespoonfuis of Baking Powder. 1 Ground Nutmeg. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the molasses and the milk. Blend well, add the spices, and the nutmeg and lemon extract, and then add the flour, sifted with the baking powder. Beat 'well for fifteen minutes, and then drop on tins lined with buttered paper. Bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. Creole Cookies. Biscuits a, la Creole. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cloves and Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract. 2 Cups of Powdered Sugar. 1 Cup of Sweet Milk. The Whites of 4 Eggs. ] Teaspoonful o.f Lemon Extract. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Flour Sufficient to Make a Soft Batter. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the milk and the baking powder, and gradually add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat the batter hard for ten min- utes, after adding sufficient flour to make a nice soft batter. Pour into baking tins, and bake to a delicate brown. When cold ice with Plain Icing. (See recipe.) These are very- dainty and nice. Lemon Cookies. Biscuits au Citron. 6 Eggs. ] Cup of Butter. 3 Cups of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract. Beat the yolks of the eggs and but- ter to a cream. Add the sugar, and beat well. Add the extract of lemon, and then the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add sufficient flour to make a nice dough, just stiff enough to mold, and then roll thin, and bake in a quick oven to a very light brown. Molasses Cookies. Biscuits a, la MSlasse. 2 Cups of Molasses. 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Soda. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Ginger. % Teaspoonful of Cloves. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Cloves. Melt the molasses. Beat the but- ter and sugar to a cream, and add, mixing in the soda, dissolved in a ta- blespoonful of boiling water. Add the ginger and the ground cloves. Take off the fire, and beat till cool. Then add the eggs, beaten well, and flour sufficient to make a nice, soft dough, just stiff enough to roll. Cut into small cakes, and bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown,- MURIXGUBS. In order to make meringues prop- erly one ' should have a meringue board of well-seasoned hard wood. This board should be cut with round- ed corners, and of a size convenient to the oven. It ought to be about ■ one and a half inches in thickness. While baking. Meringues must al- ways remain soft underneath. To accomplish this, dampen the board thoroughly with water before plac- 297 ing the bands of paper upon It. In this way the Mering-ues are pre- vented from receiving heat in suf- pcient volume to render them hard underneath. Creole ]\lerin£;ues. Meringues a. la Crfiole. 1 Pint of Sifted White Sugar. The Whites of 12 Eess. 1 Tablespoontul of Vanillii. Beat the whites to a stiff, snowy troth, and then gradually add the su- gar and vanilla, beating until the mixture is stiff enough to cut with a knife. Then cut same stout sheets ol foolscap paper into strips measur- ing at least two inches in width, or, if you wish to make the meringues larger, simply place the sheet of pa- per, slightly buttered, on the table. Take a tablespoon and gather up the meringue mixture as nearly as possible in tne shape of an egg, and working, it towards the side of the bowl to give it this shape, and then drop slopingly from the spoon upon the strips of paper at a distance «f at least an inch apart. Draw the «dge of the spoon very sharply around the edge of the meringue, to give it a smooth, round shape, re- sembling an egg. When all the rows are filled, sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and let them remain in this state for about three minutes. Then take hold of the strips at either end, and shake lightly, to remove all ex- cess of sugar. Place the strips in rows about one inch apart on the wet board or baking tin (the board is much better), and as soon as the sugar begins to dissolve slightly on their surface, push them into the oven, which must be at a very mod- crate heat, and bake them a very light fawn color. Watch constantly, that they may not burn. When the meringues are done, remove each one very carefully and separately from the paper. Then use a small dessert spoon. If you desire to fill the me- ringues, scoop out the soft white part, and, with the outer side of the bowl of the spoon, smooth the inter- ior of the meringues. Then place them with the rounded side down- ward on the baking tin in the oven to dry for a few minutes. When thoroughly crisp, without browning. place them between sheets of paper in a dry place. When using me- ringues for desserts, etc., garnish the interior with whipped cream, beaten to a stiff froth, and flavored with vanilla, orange, lemon, orange flower •water, or any kind of fancy liqueur, stick the two halves together lightly and serve. Meringues may be kept tor some time in thir dry shell state, and filled when ready to use. In mak- ing them for immediate family Use, simply drop the mixture by spoonfuls On buttered paper, dust with the sugar, wait for three minutes, fan or blow off all excess of sugar, and then place them in a very moderate oven and bake to a light brown. When dry, carefully remove the me- ringue from the paper, after they have cooled, brush the bottoms slightly with the white of an egg, beaten to a froth, stick two me- ringues together, put away to dry,, and serve when needed. Creamed-Iced Meringues. Meringues a, la Cr&me Glacfie. 1 Pound of Sifted White Sugar. The Whites of 12 Ebks. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. 3 Ounces of Stiff Whipped Cream. % Cup of Transparent Icing. Cream-Iced Meringues should be made much smaller than the ordi- nary Meringues — about the size of a bird's egS- Proceed as above, and fill with stiff, whipped cream, taking great care when filling that none of the cream shall ooze from between the two halves of the l^eringues af- ter they have been stuck together. If it should, wipe it off very care- fully. When well-fllled, hold each Meringue separately on a silver fork, and dip them all over in "Trans- parent Icing" (see recipe), and let them dry. These Meringues are de- licious desserts. ' Cream-Iced Meringues With Pre- serves. Meringues Glacfes aux Confitures. 1 Pound of Sifted White Sugar. The Whites of 12 Egss. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. 3 Ounces of Currant, Orange 6r Any Preserves. Vi Cup of Transparent Icing. Prepare as in Meringues a, la Cre- ole, or as above, only spread some preserves thinly inside the Meringues before garnishing them with the cream, and then ice with Transpar- ent Icing. (See reipe Transparent Icing.) Biscuits GlacSs aux Confitures. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound Flour. The .Tuice of 1 Lemon. 1 Cup of Jam of Any Kind Desired. These are , elegant cakes and en- hance the most fashionable dessert. Make a sponge cake or cup cake (see recipes), and bake on a baking sheet about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. When cold, cut up Into fanciful shapes, trim the edges neat- ly with a very sharp knife, and be careful, to brush off the least par- ticle of crumbs that may adhere; carefully spread the upper part and 298 sides of the biscuit with apricot, peach, raspberry or any jam. Then hold one at a time on a silver fork, very carefully, and with a spoon pour over. Transparent Chocolate Icing, around the sides and over the surface of the biscuit. Then carefully lay it upon a wire tray, resting upon a baking sheet. Dry thej biscuit in a very moderate oven for about five minutes. Marbled GlacCes. Biscuits Panaohgs aux ^Jonfltures. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. ^ Pound of Flour. Ibe Juice of 1 Lemon. 1 Cmr of Mixed Preserved Fruits. Prepare the cake as directed in the preceding recipe. Then place on the baking sheet. Drop different-sized small bits of fine preserves, orange, apricot, damson, red currant, etc., on the biscuit, and spread smoothly, so as to form a beautifully marbled pattern. Then cut out the cakes in any fanciful design. Proceed as above to cover with Transparent Icing, and dry in a moderate oven for five minutes. CHAPTER Xli ICINGS FOR CAKES. Glaces pour Gateaux. Read carefully the directions given for icing cakes in the beginning of the chapter on "Cakes." (See re- ^cipe.) Then proceed to make icings according to taste, as follows: Plain Iclngr, Glace. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Juice. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. Essence of Rose, Orange or Lemon. Beat the whites of the eggs, and sift in gradually the sugar, beating all the while, using good judgment as to sufficient quantity, and adding in the beginning a tablespoonful of Rose or Lemon Essence or Orange Flower Water. Beat very, very light, till sufficient almost to stand alone. Have ready in another bowl a little lemon juice, and begin to lay on the icing In a thin coat over the cake with a knife, occasionally dipping the knife into the lemon juice, to make a nice, smooth icing. When it is covered with this coat, set in the oven or the sun to harden, when it will be ready for the next coat. Add another coating as before. This coat will be much smoother and white" than the first. If you wish to make ornamental icing it will be necessary to have piping tubes. (See General Directions for Icing.) Almond Icing. Glace aux Amandes. 3 Cups of Sugar. 1 Pound of Almonds, felanched and PoundeJ to a Paste. The Whites of 3 Eggs. Beat the eggs, stir in the almonds and sugar, and then proceed to ice according to general directions. (See above or recipe.) Cbocolate Icing. , Glace au Chocolat. 2 Ounces of Chocolate. 2 Cups of Sugar. The Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Extract. Melt two ounces of chocolate in a little boiling water. Add two cups .sugar, and stir till smooth. Stir in the well-beaten whites of three eggw and one teaspoonful of Vanilla Ex- tract, and proceed as in Plain Icing. (See recipe.) Orange or liCmon leins. Glace a, I'Orange ou au Citron. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon or Orange. For Lemon and Orange Icings make a Plain Icing, stirring in at the start the juice of one lemon or one orange, and proceeding as in Plain Icing. (See recipe.) Orange Transparent Icing. Glace Transparente a. I'Orange. % Pound of Fine White Sugar. Halt the White of 1 Egg. The Zest of 1 Orange. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange Essence or Orange Juice. An Orange Transparent Icing Is made by flavoring with a little or- ange sugar, rubbing against the zest of the orange, or tinging with Saf- fron and flavoring with Cuvagoa. 299 Colored Transparent Iclngr- Glace Transparente a, la Rose, a, la Violette. .Etn. % *onna -01 'Wne "White Sugar^ Half the White of .1 Egg. Flavoring and Coloring According to Taste. Green Icing is made by using the Extract of Spinach and flavoring with Cedratl; a Rose Pink by flav- oring with the Essential Oil of Roses and adding a few drops of Cochineal, and a Violet Icing by flavoring with Syrup of Violet. Pro- ceed as in Plain Icing. "Wine Icing:. Glace au Vln. The -Whites of 2 Ebes. 1 Pound of White Sugar. 1 Gill of Sherry or Madeira Wine. Proceed exactly as in Lemon or Orange Icing, only adding instead one gill of good Sherry or Madeira wine. Then proceed as in Plain Icing. Water Icing. Glace a. I'Eau. 2 Cups of Susar. A Pinch of Cream of Tartar. 1 Tablespoonful of Yanilla, Peach or Straw- herry Extract, Take two cups of sugar and a small pinch of Cream of Tartar. Stir with just enough water to make a thick paste, and. flavor with Peach or Strawberry Extract. If Straw- berry is used, add a teaspoonful of Cochineal. Beat well, and, if not stiff enough, add more sugar, and proceed as in Plain Icing. FROSTING. Glace Neigeuse. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 2 Cups of Pulverized Sugar. M Cup of Cornstarcli. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Milk. Take the whites of two eggs, two cups of pulverized sugar, and one- half a cup of cornstarch. Blend the cornstarch with a little) milk, to make a thick paste, add the whites of the eggs, beaten light, and tlie pulverized sugar. Beat all to a stiff froth, and frost the cake while hot. Cream Frosting. Glace Neigeuse a, la. CrSme. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 2 Cups of Pulverized Sugar. 4 Tfblespoonfula of Kich Cream. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. For a Cream Frosting, proceed ex- actly as above, only omit the corn- starch, and add an equal measure of rich cream, and flavor with Va- nilla Extract. Boil the cream. Orgeat Paste or Icing, Orgeatfi. 1 Tound of Peeled AlmondL'. 1 Pound of Sugar, 1 Tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water. To one pound of skinned almonds add one pound of sugar. Pound as directed to a pulp In a mortar, oc- casionally adding a few .drops of -water to prevent the almonds from running to oil. Use Orange Flower Water. Add fine white sifted sugar till you have sufHcIent to make a paste, and work till well-amalga- mated and elastic. It will now be ready for any use designated in this book. Royal Icing. Glace a. la Royale. The Whites of 2 Eggs. ] Pound of Pine White Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Juice. 1 Tablespoonful of Any Kind of Essence Desired. A Royal Icing is made of the finest possible white loaf sugar, sifted, and mixed or w^orked into a paste with the whites of eggs and lemon juice in the proportions given for Plain Icing, only the paste must be softer, Flavor with any kind of essence, according to fancy. This icing is used to produce fanciful effects. It is not necessary to purchase orna- mental piping tubes. With a little taste and dexterity a piece of white writing paper, made into the shape of a cornet, may be utilized. Dry the paper by sticking together and rub- bing with the white of an egg, to render stiff. Allow at the pointed end oiily a half inch opening, and with a little practice and good ar- tistic taste, the prettiest effects in elegant ornamentation may be pro- duced by even an amateur. Transparent Icing. Glace Transparante. % Pound of Pine White Sugar. Half ot the White of 1 Egg. The Juice of Half a Lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Any Fancy Liqueur. Take a half pound of the finest white clarified sugar, and clarify again by boiling it with half of the white of an egk, beaten to a stiff froth. Clear off the scum as it rises, and continue skimming till the sugar is perfectly clear. Then add to the sugar half a gill of clarified sugar, boiled to a syrup, and to which you wiU have added the juice of a quar- ter or half a lemon. Strain, and add 300 to the feugar enough Liqueur, Cura- Qoa, Noyau, Cedrati or Maraschino to flavor the icing- to taste, and beat or whip it to the proper consistency. Then take a silver tablespoon and stir the sugar well together, rub- bing up and against the sides of the pan till it acquires an opaline ap- pearance. Then take a silver fork, lift one of the cakes intended to be iced, dip in the sugar, or- else hold it on a fork and with a spoon pour the icing - o-ver: Take a'nother fork, lift off the cake and place 'it on the baking sheet, and so on till all the small cakes are iced. Then dry- in the sun or in the oven for about ten minutes. CHAPTER XLI. ICE CREAMS, BISCUIT, SHERBETS. Des Crimes k la Glace, Biscuits Glacges, Sorbets. In making ice creams, alwaj-s use the best, fresh, sweet, rich milk or cream. Sweeten it with finely-pow- dered sugar, and flavor with the best quality of extracts, such as lemon,- ■ vanilla, etc., which should be pro- cured from first-class, reliable drug- gists. These are the simplest means' of flavoring. Sometimes, howe'ver, the old Creoles boil the Vanilla Bean until the aroma is extracted, and when cool they add it to the sweetened cream. Always avoid set- ting the cream near the fire, especial- ly in warm weather, as it sours easily. Keep it in a refrigerator till ready to freeze. There are so many improved ice cream freezers that it would almost seem superfluous to add anything in regard to freezing the cream. How- ever, it is well to remember that the lid of the freezer must always be tight-fitting and secure, so as to preclude the possibility of any salt entering it. Directions are given with all these modern inventions as to the method of freezing the cream according to the make of the freezer. HoTV to Make lee Cream. Some persons boil the milk and eggs, thus making a custard ice cream. This is the cream that the old Creoles prefer best. But there are others who prefer the cream un- boiled. In either case it is abso- lutely necessary to have rich, fresh cream, and in the latter case to scald the cream, if you wish to. have a good ice cream. A delicious cream, however, is made according to the old rhethod in vogue so many years among the Creoles. The old French confectioners along Canal Street long ago found out and demonstrated that the raw frozen cream is never a smooth velvety cream, and that the flavoring is scarce apparent. ,. The following is the approved Cre- ole method of making Ice Cream. Crdme a. la Glac6. 1 Quart of Milk or Cream 6 E^£S. % Pound of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Any Extract. Put the milk or cream on to boil. If cream is used, six eggs will be sufficient; if milk, use eight.. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light, and then beat the whites to a stiff froth. Take the milk oft the fire, and pour it over the sugar and yolks, stirring it all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thor- oughly, aad two tablespoonfuls of extract of either Lemon or Vanilla. Set to cool, and then turn into the freezer, pack and stir around in the ice for about ten. minutes, and finish as in recipe for making and freezing cream. (See recipe.) This ice cream is the basis of all ice creams used by the Creoles. How to Freeze the Cream. Before putting the mixture into the freezer, see that the dasher is right side up and that everything la in proper condition and adjustment. Have the ice pounded, and a suf- ficient quantity of rock salt. Put a three-and-a-half inch layer of ice in- to the bottom of the freezer, and then a layer of salt, fully an inch and a half deep. Then put In the can, and continue to fill around it with al- ternate layers of ice and salt till the freezer is full. Then turn the crank slowly until it is somewhat difficult to turn it. Let off the water that has accumulated, and. refill with ice, and then cover with a thick piece of bagging or carpet. Then let it stand aside in a cool place to ripen, till you are ready to serve. Then pro- ceed as above. Fruit puddings and custards may be frozen in the same manner. 301 How to Mold Ice Cream. When ready to serve, if you wish to take the cream out of the mold whole, have ready a dish with a flat bottom, and a pan of hot water. Then roll the tin mold for an in- stant only in the water, and wipe it quickly, holding the top down- wards. Remove the lid, and quickly turn it right side up, setting- the plate on the table and removing the mold carefully. Or you may wring out cloths In scalding water and wrap them an Instant around the moid, and proceed as above. This is a very delicate way of serving the cream; and admits of it being brought to the table in all its beauty and freshness and perfection of molding. The cream may also be molded into a single brick by having a brick- shaped mold and filling it with the cream. When well-filled, press down closely and cover the' mold carefully, so that no pieces of salt or any salt water can enter it or penetrate it. Fill the bottom of a pail with ice, mingled with rock salt; lay the mold upon it, surround and cover with the broken pieces of ice and mingled rock salt; cover and let freeze for about half an hour. When frozen, set mold in luke warm wa- ter, wash off portions of ice and salt, lift the mold&ut gently, uncover turn into a dessert dish and serve immediately. Apricot Ice Cream, Cr&me GlacSe aux Abricots. 1 Quart of Cream. % Pound of Susar. 1 Quart of Apricots or 1 Pint Can. Prepare the cream as in recipe Ice Cream (see recipe), and let cool for half an hour. Pare and mash the apricots, being careful to remove the stones. Then mash them into the cream, mixing thoroughly for five n.iniUes till well dissolved in the crps.ni. Then strain through a li'io sieve into a freezer, pressing the fruit down with a wooden spoon and when w^ell packed proceed to freeze as In the directions for Plain Ice Cream. (See directions.) Banana Ice Cream. Crgme Glac6e aux Bananes. 6 Large Bananas. 1 Quart of Cream. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. % Pound ot Sugar. Peel the bananas and slice and mash them. Boil the milk, and add the sugar, stirring till well dis- solved. Then add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and let cool for an hour. Stir in the bananas. Which yoii will have previously beat- en to a smooth paste, and proceed as directed above. Chocolate Ice Cream. CrSme au Chocolat. 1 Quart of MiUi or Cream. % Pound of the Best French Chocolate. / % Pound of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. Boil the milk, and add to it a half pound ot the best French chocolate,' grated. Let it boil and thicken, beat- ing till smooth. Add a quarter of a pound of white pulverized sugar. When cool add half a quart of cream and the Vanilla Extract. Pour into the freezer, after mixing well, and proceed as in directions for making and freezing cream. Cliocolate Ice Cream With Bggs, CrSme Glac§e au Chocolat. 4 Ounces of Chocolate. 6 Ounces of Sugar. 1 Pint of Mllli. 8 Yolks of Eggs. 1 Pint of Whipped Cream. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla. Dissolve the chocolate in a little water, and add it to the boiling milk. Take off, and pour over the eggs and sugar, which you will have beaten to a thick cream. Add the VAnilla, and set to cool. Then add the remaining cream, and freeze as directed. Coffee Ice .Cream. Creme Glaoee au Cafe. 1 Pint of Cream, 1 Pint of New Milk. 6 Eggs. 1 Pound of Sugar. % Cup ot Strong Cafe Noir (Black Coffee.) Boil the milk. Take from the lire. Whip the cream to a stiff froth. Add the sugar ' and yolks of eggs, thor- oughly beaten, to the milk and cof- fee, sweetening to taste. Set aside to cool, and add the whipped cream, and proceed to freeze as directed. King of the Carnival Ice Cream. CrSme 3. la Glace au Rex. 1 Quart of Milk or Cream. 6 Eggs. 1 Pound of Suirar. 1 Tablespoonful Each of tlie Coloring Ex. tracts Given Below. This cream was originated by a famous New Orleans confisseur in honorof "R:ex," the King of the world-famed New Orleans Carnivals. It was first served at a Carnival luncheon in St. Charles Avenue. The King's colors are purple, green and gold. The cre^un represents these colors, and is made according to the following directions: Make a Plain Ice Cream. Divide into three distinct and equal por- tions. Color one with Spinach Green- 302 ery, to obtain the green effect; flavor another with Essence of Vanilla, and tinge with orange juice or a bit of saffron, to obtain the golden yellow, and the third with a deep CrSme de Violettes, to obtain the royal pur- ple. Freeze in separate molds. Then pack into one freezer, and when frozen remove, according to direc- tions for taking ice cream whole from a mold. Cut in slices and serve. Molds now come made in the - shape of tiny flags, and the effect of freezing thus is very beautiful, and suggests at once Rex and his merry reign. Lemon Ice Cream. Cr&me GlacSe au Citron. 1 Quart of Cream or Milk. 6 Eggs. % Pound o£ Susar. 1 T.ablespoonful of Lemon Extract. Put the milk or cream on to boil. If cream is used, six eggs will be sufficient; if milk, use eight. Beat the yolks of the eggs and t'he sugar very light, and then beat the whites to a stiff froth. Take the milk off the Are, and pour it over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thor- oughly, and two tablespoonfuls of extract of lemon. Set to cool, and then turn into the freezer, pack, and stir around in the ice for about ten minutes, and finish as in recipe for making and freezing Cream. (See recipe.) Ijipnenr Ice Cream. Cr§me Glacfie au Liqueurs. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Pound of Sugar, The Yolks of 8 Egss. A Gill of Any Kind of Liqueur. Boil the milk and take from the fire, and add the sugar and the eggs, beaten to a thick cream. Add a gill of any kind of fancy liqueur, and then turn into a mold and freeze as above directed. mandarin Ice Cream. Creme Glacee a I'Oranges. 1 Quart of Cream or Milk. 1 Pound of Suzar. The Yolks of 6 Eggs. The Grated Zest of 2 Mandarins. The Juice of 1 Dozen, With the Grated Pulp. Peel the mandarins, grate the rind or zest of two very fine, extract the juice of twelve, and, after taking out the seeds, mash the inner fruit or pulp through a sieve. Put the milk or cream on to boil. Beat the yolks of eggs and sugar till very light, and beat the whites to a stiff froth. Take the milk from the fire and pour it over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Set to cool, then add the wi^nes of the eggs, and finally the grated man- darin pulp, zest and juice, and mix well. Turn all into a freezer and proceed as in ine directions given for making Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Marascbino Ice Cream, CrSme Glacfie au Maraschino. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Pound oi Sugar. 8 Eggs. A Gill of Any Kind of Maraschino. 'Xhe Juice of 1 Lemon. Boil the milk and take from the fire, and add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, beaten to a thick cream. Set to cool. Add a gill of Mara- schino and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and then turn into a mold and freeze as above di- rected. Neapolitan Ice Cream, Cr^me Neapolitaine. 1 Pint of Vanilla Cream. 1 Pint of Pistache Ice Cream. 1 Pint of Strawberry or Raspberry Cream, Prepare the ice cream according to recipes. (See recipes.) Have at hand a brick form or mold that will hold three pints. Lay at the bottom of the mold Pistache Ice Cream; place over this the Vanilla Cream and on top of this the Raspberry or Strawberry Cream. Cover the mold tightly and set to freeze for two hours. Then plunge the mold Into warm water, wash off all the salt and dry. Then carefully uncover, and unmold the cream in a cold des- sert dish or on a piece of paper. Take a long, sharp knife, dip into warm water, cut the brick of cream through- the center, and then divide the pieces into three or four parts, each being perfectly square. Arrange daintily on a cold dessert dish and serve Im- mediately. Nectarine Ice Cream, CrSme Glacfie aux Poires. 1 Quart of Cream or Milk. 1 Pound of Susar. 1 Quart of Nectarines or 1 Pint Can. 6 Eggs. Peel the nectarines, stone and mash well, with half of the sugar. Let them stand for an hour or more, and press through a sieve. Set the milk to boil; beat the yolks of the eggs and the remaining half of the sugar to a cream, and beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Take the milk off the fire and pour it over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Set to cool. Then add the mashed nectarines and sugar, and mix well; mix all thoroughly, turn into a freezer and proceed as in the general directions for making Ice Cream. (See recipe.) 303 Nougat Ice Cream. Cr&me Glacee au Nougat. 1 Pint of Noueat, 8 Eggs. % Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Cream. 3 Drops of Essence of Peach Kernels. Make some Nougat (see recipe), using about a pint. Bruise and mash it, and blend with one gill of orange flower water. Add to this the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, beaten to a thick cream. Set the milk to boil. Then take from the fire and add the above ingredients, stirring well, and adding at the end the Essence of Peach Kernels, and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Then freeze in the manner above directed. Left-over Nougat may be utilized in this way. Noyau Ice Cream. Crgme Glac§e au Noyau. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Eound at Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 8 Eggs. A Gill of Noyau. Boil the milk and take from the fire, and then add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, beaten to a thick cream. Add a gill of Noyau Extract and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Set to cool, and then turn into a mold and freeze as above directed. Orange Ice Cream. Cr6me Glac6e 3. I'Orange. I 1 Quart of Cream. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice of 12 Oranges. The Grated Rind of 2 Oranges, Rubbed on Sugar. Boil the milk or cream in a farina boiler. Take off the fire, and while hot pour this over the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten to a thick cream, with the sugar; add orange juice and rind of the or- anges. Stir till all begins to thicken. Then add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Set to cool. Turn into the freezer, and proceed in the manner above indicated. Orange FloTver Ice Cream. Cr&me Glacge a, la Fleur d'Oranger. 1 Quart of Cream. ^% Pound of ■ 1 Ounce of Candled Orange Flowers. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. Bruise the orange flowers, and mix and stir them with the boiling milk. Then take from the fire, and add the sugar, and dissolve well, and then the beaten yolks of the eggs, mix well. Freeze in the man- ner above indicated. Feaeh Ice Cream. Cr6me Glac§e aux Peches. 8 Ripe Peaches or 1 Can. 6 Eggs. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Cream. Put the milk to boil, and when hot take from the flre, and add the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten to a thick cream with the powdered sugar. Then set to cool for thirty minutes. Then add the peaches, which you will have pared, stoned and mashed, and stir them quickly into the cream. Now add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix all thoroughly to- gether and turn into the freezer. Turn the crank rapidly for a few minutes, till thoroughly mixed, and then cbver and let stand for two hours. Delicious. Pistachio Ice Cream. Cr6me GlacSe aux Pistaches. 1 Quart of Milk or Cream. % Pound of Sugar. Yi Pound of Shelled, Scalded and Cleaned Pistachio Nuts. The Yolks of 3 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Spinach Greening, or 6 Droos of Spinach Green. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water or Almond Extract. Wash and boil the Spinach for five minues, and then drain through a colander. Reduce it to a pulp, and then squeeze out the juice through a piece of fine muslin. One quart of Spinach wili furnish the proper amount of juite when boiled and squeezed. Then Tvash, scald, clean and pulverize the pistachios to a pulp. Set half the milk to boil In a farina boiler. Add the sugar, and stir till well dissolved. Take off and add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very, very light. Stir and add the nuts, and stir till it thickens. Then stand away to cool. When cool, add the flavoring- extract and the re- maining cream, reserving a small portion to work into the Spinach, which you will add and blend smoothly. When the color is a light green, turn into a freezer and pro- ceed as directed above. Pineapple Ice Cream. Crgme Glac6e a, I'Ananas. 1 Large, Ripe Pineapple. 1 Quart of Cream or Milk. 6 Eggs, ■ 1 Pound of Suaar. The Juice of 1 Lemon, ■ Peel the pineapple, and then grate and pound and mash the pulp with one-half of the sugar. Press through a sieve. Put the milk or cream on to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the remaining half of the sugar very light, and then beat the whites 304 to a stiff froth. Take the milk off the fire, and pour it over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thor- oughly. Add the pineapple and juice and niix well. Set to cool and then turn into the freezer, pack and stir around in the ice box for about ten minutes, and proceed as in the re- cipe for making and freezing Cream. Pineapple Mousse. Mousse a. I'Ananas. 1 Pineapple. 3 TeaspoonfQls of Vanilla. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Jamaica Rum. 1 Quart of Cream. 1 Pound of Powdered Sugar. Peel the pineapple, and cut one- half into slices. Lay them in a bowl and sprinkle with powdered sugar and one-third of the rum. Cover and set aside till needed. Grate the remainder of the pineapple into an earthen vessel, and add sugar suf- ficient to sweeten to taste, and pour the vanilla and the rest of the rum over it. Then mix carefully with the cream, which should be at least three times the weight of the pine- apple. Turn all into an ice cream mold and proceed to freeze as di- rected above. Serve with slices of pineapple and its syrup around the frozen composition, which should be turned out of t^e mold accopdlng to directions given for making and freezing cream. Raspberry lee Cream. Cr6me Glacfie aux Framboises. 1 Quart of Cream. 1 Quart of Raspberries or 2 Tablespoonfuls of Raspberry Extract. 1 Pound of Susar. The Yolks of 6 Bags. The Juce of 1 Lemon. Set the milk to boil, add the sugar, and when well-dissolved take from the firev add the eggs, well beaten to a cream, and set aside to cool. Then, when cool, add the remaining half of the sugar, which you will have blended with the berries, which have been mashed well, and allowed to stan^ for several hours, and then press through a sieve. Mix well with the milk, add the, lemon juice, turn Into the freezer, and freeze as above directed. It the berries are too pale to impart a sufficient rosy tinge to the cream, add a few drops of Rasp- berry Extract. It is only possible to make the Raspberry Cream with the fruit when raspberries are in season. Otherwise use two tablespoonfuls of Raspberry Extract, and proceed as in recipe for Vanilla Cream. Rice Ice Cream. CrSme Glacfie au Riz. 2'A Pints of Milk. % Pound of Sugar. The Yolks of 3 Egss. 4 Ounces of Boiled Rice. 1 Gill of Curacoa. % Pint of Milk of Almonds. A Compote of 8 Oranges. Boil the rice in the milk till very- soft. Do not mash. Set the pint an* a half extra milk to boil, and add the rice and the milk of almonds an* the sugar and eggs, beaten to a cream. Make a custard. Take from the fire, and add the Curacoa, and mix well. Set to freeze as above di- rected, and when cold turn out of the mold (see recipe), place in a dish garnish around with the oranges (see Compote of Oranges), pour the syrup over all, and serve. Rose lee Cream. CrSme Glacfie a, la Rose. 1 Quart of Cream. 1 Pound of Susar. 2 Teaspoontuls of Red Rose Extract and Vanilla. Prepare exactly as in recipe for Ice Cream, using the same ingred- ients, and flavor with two table- spoonfuls of Red Rose Extract and Vanilla. Strawberry Ice Cream. CrSme Glac§e aux Fraises. 1 Quart oJ Cream. 1 Quart of Strawberries or 2 Tablespoonfota of Strawberry Extract. 1 Pound of Susar. 6 Eggs. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Set the milk to boil; take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten to a cream, with halt the sugar, and set aside to cool. Then, when cool, add the remain- ing half of the sugar, which you will have blended with the strawberries, mashed well, and allowed to stand for several hours, and then press through a sieve. Mix well with, the milk, add the lemon juice and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; turn into the freecer, and freeze as above directed. If the strawberries are too pale to Impart a sufficiently rosy tinge td the cream add a few drops of Cochineal. When, not in season flavor with the Ex- tract. Tutti-Prntti. 1 Pint of Vanilla Ice Cream. % Pint of Strawberry Ice Cream. % Pnit of Lemon Sherbet. >2 Ounces of Candied Cherries. 1 Ounce of Candied Orange. 2 Ounces of Candied Anricots. 1 Ounce of Candled Currants. Prepare the Vanilla and Strawber- ry Ice Cream and the Lemon Sherbet: 305 according to recipes given (see re- cipea). Have ready six or eight tutti-frutti molds. Cut the candied cherries into halves or quarters, and this candied oranges and apricots into small pieces. Open the tutti-frutti molds and flU in the bottom with Vanilla Cream. Lay side by side in the covers of the molds a spoonful of Lemon Sherbet and a spoonful of Strawberry Cream; mix the candied fruits together and divide them into equal parts, and lay these on the Vanilla Cream in the bottom of the molds. Then press the covers tight- ly on each mold and after seeing that they are very firmly closed, lay the mold in a pail, the bottom of which has been filled with broken ice and rock salt. Cover the mold with more rock salt and ice and proceed to lay each mold one over the other, al- ternating with the ice and rook salt. When all are covered, fill in the pail with broken pieces of ice and rock G^lt, cover and let freeze for one hour. Have 'ready a vessel with warm water and six pr eight very cold dessert plates on which you will have arranged dainty paper cases fancifully cut. Lift up the molds gently and wash them off very quick- ly with the warm water, being care- ful to see that no salt adheres. Then open the molds and lay the tutti- Irutti in the paper cases and serve Immediately. Tnttl-Frutti ft la Creole. I 1 Quart of Orange Slierbet. (See recipe.) % Pint of Cherries, Seeded. % Pint of Stoned Apricots. % Pint of Stoned Peacties. % Pint of Figs. 14 Pint of Pineapple. % Pint of Watermelon. Cut the w^atermelon and the pine- apple into very small square lozenges first seeding the watermelon. Cut the rest of the fruits very fine. Then put a layer of the watermelon into the freezer, and sprinkle generously with white powdered sugar. Then put a layer of the mixed fruits, su- gar abundantly, pour in a little oi tlie sherbet, and proceed in this way until the whole form is nearly filled with the mixture in alternate lay- ers. Then set in a double boiler just long enough for the sugar to melt. Take out, pour over the orange sherbet, close tightly, and 'set to freeze. This is the genuine Tutti- Frutti, and is most delicious. Vanilla Ice Cream. CrSme Glacfie a. la Vanille. 1 Quart of Milk or Cream. 6 Eggs. % Pound of Sugar. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Any Extract. Put the milk or cream on to boil. If cream is used, six eggs will be Bufflcient; if milk, use eigh't. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light, and then beat the white? to a stiff froth. Take the milk oft the fire, and pour it over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Then add tlie whites, mixing thor- oughly, and two lablespoonfuls of extract of either Lemon or Vanilla. Set to cool, and then turn into the freezer, pack, and stir around in the ice for about ten minutes, and finish as in recipe for making and freezing cream. (See recipe.) Variegated Ice Cream. CrSme Panachge. 1 Quart of a^illc or Cream. 1 Pound of Sugar. 6 _Eggs. , 1 Teaspoonful of Essence of Strawberry, 1 Teaspoonful of Essence of Vanilla. 1 Teaspoonful of Chocolate. 1 Teaspoonful of Cream of Violets. 1 Teasponful of Splnaclj Greenery. Prepare a Plain Ice Cream. (See recipe "Ice Cream.") Divide it into portions. Color one with Essence of Strawberry, ahother with Spinach Greenery, another with Vanilla, to obtain yellow, another with Creme de Violettes, another with Chocolate^ etc. Freeze all these in separate molds, that come specially prepared for this purpose, and which may be obtained from any dealer. When frozen, take from tlie individual molds and pack in a large ice crearn freezer in a beautiful order of ar- rangement, so tl^at the colors may blend well. Freejfe' again, and then remove from the moid according to directions given above for unmold- . ing. Cut into slices and serve. The effect of the various colors is very pretty. BISCUIT GLACfiS. 1 Quart of Cream. Tlie Yolks of e Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla. % Pound of Sugar. 1 Gill of Maraschino or 1 Gill of KIrsch. Set one-half the cream to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar till they are exceedingly light. Take the boiling milk from the Are, and stir in. while still very hot, the sugar and eggs. Then set to cool. When cool add the Maraschino or Kirsch, and set to freeze as Ice Cream. In the meantime, whip the remaining cream to a very thick froth, as in Whipped Cream a, la Vanille, adding the Vanilla, and stir it into the freez- ing cream. Cut paper cases, or use the specially prepared molds that come for Biscuit GlacS, and fill with the mixture, and then fill the top one inch high with a little of th,e cream, which you will have colored with a teaspoonful of Strawberry Extract and a few drops of Cochi- neal. Pack these molds or cases in 306 ealt, and freeze for two hours longer, until they can be turned out whole. Blsculis Glaces & la Creole. 1 Pint of Millj. The Yolks of 6 Eggs. 14 Ponna of PulTerized Sugar. I Tablespoonful of Vanilla or Lemon Extract. Set one cint of milk to boil. Beat the yolks of six eggs with a half pound of white pulverized sugar un- til light. Stir' in the milk. Take from the fire, and let cool. Flavor with vanilla and freeze. Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir In. Pill molds, or fancy paper cases with the mixture, pack in salt and Ice for two hours, and serve. BOMBQ GLACe. 1 Pint of Milk. The Tolks of 6 Egis. % Pound of White Pulverized Sugar.. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract. % Pint of Strawberry Sherbet. For this purpose you must have Bombe Glac6 molds. Line the molds about three-fourths of an inph thick with Strawberry Water Ice (see re- cipe), and then fill the center with the Biscuit GlacS, prepared as above. The biscuit must be freezing cold when put into the mold. Pack in salt and ice, and set to freeze sev- eral hours. SHERBET. Sorbets. Sherbets are delightful water ices, differing from ice creams in this, that no milk or eggs are used in the making, the juice of the fruit or extract of fruit or essence flavoring and sugar and water being prepared and frozen together. Sherbets are among the most pleasant of the Cre- ole summer desserts; they are ex- tensively served of a hot summer evening in Creole families and are both for the family and guests, who may drop in for a social half hour. The sherbet is served in glasses. Water ices are made in exactly the same manner as sherbets, only the water and sugar are not boiled; they are mixed together and the flavoring or fruit juice added and frozen, and are served immediately. Apple Sherbet. Sorbet aux Pommes. 1 Pound of Susar. 1% Pnits Of Apple Juice. 1 Quart of Water. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Take about a dozen apples, pare, core and quarter, atid cook till very tender. Put the sugar and water to boil, add the apples, and when very tender strain all through a sieve. Add the juice of the lemon and set to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See re- cipe far Freezing Ice Cream.) Serve as needed. Apricot Sherbet. Sorbet aux Abricois. % Pint of Apricot Juice. 1 Pound Oil Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Put th'e sugar and water to boil. Take about one dozen apricots, pare, press them through a sieve, and add to the boiling syrup. Let all boil for five or ten minutes. Then press through a sieve again; add the lemon juice, mix well and set to freeze as in general directions for freezing Ice Cream. Banana Sherbet. Sorbet aux Bananes. 1 Dozen Bananas. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. The Juice of 2 Oranges. Peel and mash the' ~ bananas. Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Take from the fire, and let cool. Then add the bananas and the orange juice, and press all through a sieve. Set to freeze as di- rected. This is a favorite Creole Sherbet. Cherry Sherbet. Sorbet aux Cerises. 1 Pomid ^f Cherries. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Stone the cherries and add them to the syrup. Then set to cool. Press through a sieve till all the juice is extracted from the cherries. Set to freeze and serve as directed. Currant Sherbet. Sorbet aux Groseilles. 1 Pint of Currant Juice. 1 Quart of Water. 1 Pound of Sugar. Mash one quart of currants. Boil the sugar and water for five min- utes. Add the currants and strain through a napkin or sieve, being careful to press very hard to extract the juice of the currants. Set 'to freeze as directed. Grape Sherbet. Sorbet aux Raisins. 1 Pint of Malaga Grapes. 1 Pound of ■ Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Boil the sugar and water five min- utes. Mash the grapes and add all to the sugar and water. Set to cool. Then press through a fine cloth, pressing hard to extract all the juice of the grapes. Set to freeze and serve as directed. 307 Iiemon Sherbet. Sorbet au Citron. The Juice of 10 Lemons. The Grated Zest of 3 Lemona. 1 Pint of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Put the sugar and water to boil. Grate the zest or yellow rind of three lemons, and add to the syrup, and let it boil for five minutes. Then set away to cool. Extract the juice from the lemons, and grate the fruit. Mix this with the syrup, and then strain through a thin mus- lin cloth. Turn into the freezer, and proceed as in Ice Cream. Orange Sberbet, S9rbet a I'Oranse. 12 Large Louisiana Oranges. 1 Quart of Water. The Juice of 2 Lemons. The Zest of 3 OranEes. i Pint of Sugar. Put the sugar and water to boil. Grate the zest or yellow rind of three oranges, and add to the syrup, and let it boil for five minutes. Then set away to cool. Extract the juice from the oranges and lemons, and grate the fruit. Mix this with the syrup, and then strain all through a thin muslin cloth. Turn into the freezer, and proceed as in Ice Cream. Feacb Sberbet. Sorbet aux Peches. 1 Dozen Fine Peaches. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice of 2 Lemons. 1 Quart of Water. Pare and cut th« peaches in halves, remove the stones. Cut the peachas up very fine and sprinkle with a half pounJ of sugar, mash w^ell to- gether and set aside for an hour. Then set the water and the remain- . ing half of the sugar to boil. After five minutes remove from the fire and let cool; add the peaches and mix well. Then press all through a fine cloth sieve, extracting all the juice from the peaches. Set to freeze and serve as directed, in glasses. This is a delicious sherbet. Pineapple Sherbet. Sorbet a. I'Ananas. 1 Pound of Grated Pineapple. 1 Quart of Water. 1 Pint of Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Peel and slice and pound the pine- apple to a pulp. Then rub through a strainer. Put the sugar and water to boil for five minutes. Then set away to cool. Extract the juice from the lemon and mix this with the syrup, add the pineapple and juice, and then strain a,ll through a thin muslin cloth. Turn into the freezer and proceed as in ice cream. This sherbet is also made by using, in- stead of the pineapple, fruit and juice, two tablespoonfuls of Pine- apple Extract. Pomegranate Sherbet. Sorbet aux Grenades. S Ripe Pomegranates. 1 Quart of Water. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon. % Teaspoonful of Essence of Vanilla. 3 Drops of Cochineal. The pips of six or eight ripe pome- granates, pressed with a wooden spoon . through a strainer, will pro- duce a pint of juice. Make a syrup by boiling one quart of water and one pint of sugar. Add, when cool- ing, the pomegranate juice, a half teaspoonful of Essence of Vanilla, the juice of a lemon, and a few drops of Cochineal. Proceed to freeze as above directed. Raspberrjr Sherbet, Sorbet aux Framboises. I'A Pints of Raspberry Juice or Pulp. 1^ Pints of Piclied Raspberries. 1 Pound of Sugar. 3 DroDS of Cocliineal. The Juice of M Lemon. Stem the berries, and add the sugar and lemon, and stand aside in their juice for an hour and a half. Then strain through a fine sieve, and add the reserved juice. Turn in- to the freezer, and proceed to freeze according to directions given under heading "Ice Cream." This sherbet is also made by adding to the sugar and water two tablespoonfuls of Elaspberry Extract, instead of the fruit, when not available. StraTvberry Sherbet. Sorbet aux Fraises. 1% Pints of Strawberry Juice or Pulp. 1% Pints of Piclied Red Strawberries. 1 Pound of Sugar. 3 Drons of Cochineal. The Juice of Va Lemon. Stem the strawberries and add the sugar and lemon, and stand aside in their juice for an hour and a half. Then strain through a fine sieve, and ad"d the reserved juice. Turn into the freezer and uroceed to freeze ac- cording to directions given under the heading "Ice Cream." Strawberry Sherbet Is also made by adding one tablespoonful of Strawberry Extract to the sugar and water, when the fruit is not available. 308 Watermelon Sherbet. Sorbet de Melon d'Eau. 1 Ripe Watermelon. % Pound of Pulverized Sugar. 6 Teaspoonfuls of Sherry Wine. Split a ripe watermelon in half. Scoop out the center, rejecting the seeds. Put the scooped fruit in a bowl; take a silver fork and pick it in small pieces. Mix with a half pound of pulverized sugar; turn the mixture into a freezer and turn slow- ly for fifteen minutes. Serve in glasses, adding a teaspoonful of Sherry to each glass. WATER ICES. Water ices are, as mentioned above, made in exactly the same manner, as sherbets, only the sugar and water are not boiled. In this case always mash the fruit with the sugar and set aside to grow juicy. Then press through a fine muslin cloth, to ex- tract all the juice, and add to the water. Mix well for a few minutes and freeze. In case peaches or apri- cots or cherries are used, pound the fruit, to extract all the juice, and mix well with the sugar; strain through a fine sieve or muslin cloth, and add to the cold water, and pro- ceed to freeze. To make Water Ices, follow the di- rections given for making Sherbet, with the exception of boiling tie wa- ter. MIDDLE COURSE DRINKS. Coup de Mlllieu. From earliest Creole days no ele- gant dinner or luncheon or supper was considered complete without a "Coup de Millieu," or a middle course consisting of a form of iced sherbet or punch, into which fruit juices or fancy liqueurs were added. As the name "Coup de Millieu" indicates, these fancy punches were brought to the table in the middle of the feast, just before the roasts were served. The custom was a survival of the ancient French and Spanish usage, that in our day has been adopted by all leading northern caterers. The following are the most famous "Coup de Millieus," the recipes for which are traaaional among the old Cre- ole families of New Orleans. The "Coup de Millieu" is always frozen, but it must be remembered that it is never possible to freeze it entirely, on account of the alcohol in the liq- uors that enter into its composition. C ardinal Punch. Ponche Cardinal. 4 Fine Louisiana Oranjres. 1 Hnt of the Best Claret or Any Pine Keil Wine. 1 Pint of Old Port Wine. 1 Pint of Water. 2 Tableapoonfuls of Cloves. 1 Pint of Gelatine or the Whites of 10 Eggs, Beaten to a Froth. 2 Pounds of White Susar. 3 Tabl'espoonfulB of Raspberry Juice or a Pew Drors of Cocbl4cal. Select fine Louisiana oranges, when in season, otherwise fine, ripe or- anges. Set them on a plate in the oven, and let them bake till very ten-, der, without letting the juice exude. Make a boiling syrup of the sugar, water and the cloves. Drop the roasted oranges into the syrup, add a pint of the best Claret or any good, red wine, and set the mixture to cool, letting the oranges steep in' the wine and syrup. When it grows cold, cut the oranges and press out all the juice, mashing them into the steeped, syrup, and then strain all through a fine sieve into the ice cream freezer. Now add the gelatine (Calf's Foot Jelly) or the whites of ten eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir well and add the raspberry juice, if raspberries are in season, other- wise color with a few drops of Coch- ineal, so that the punch will be of a bright cardinal color. Cover im- mediately and set to freeze as hard as possible for three or four min- utes. Then take a wooden spoon and detach the frozen punch from the bottom, mix in with the inner liquid mixture, and cover and freeze again" for three or four minutes. Repeat this four or five times. Serve in punch glasses. A simpler and quicker way of mak- ing this punch is to prepare a Rasp- berry Sherbet, using half the quan- tity of ingredients, given. (See re- cipe.) Strain this preparation through a sieve into a freezer, and add a half a gill of red Curagoa and half a gill of • Maraschino; cover the freezer and proceed to freeze ac- cording to general directions given above. Serve in punch glasses. This is _ a very pleasant middle course drink, but the first recipe given is the true Cardinal Punch, and there is no comparison between this and the latter, or more simple recipe. Cardinal Punch is an old-time Cre- ole punch. The French used to make a famous spiced wine, which they called "Vin de I'Eveque," or "Bish- op's Wine." When the spiced wine was made of Claret, it was called "Vin de Cardinale," or "Car^Jinal's Wine." These wines were served during the feast. The "Coup de Mil- lieu," or the frozen punches, are survivals of the old French custom of serving spiced wines, and "Ponche a. la Cardinale" is a survival of the ancient "Vlp k la Cardinale." The Creoles adapted oranges to the punch,, baking them to better extract all 309 the juices, and steeping- them in Wine and adding the touch of Coch- ineal to obtain brilliancy of color- ing and still further to car.ry out the Idea of a Cardinal's colors. Creole Puncli. Ponclie a, la Creole. 3 Cupfuls of Orange Juice. ■ 1 Cupful of Water." 1 Cupful of Fine Old Port Wine. % Cupful of Bi-anaj". ' 2 Small Cupfula of Suaar. 2 Hipe, Delicate-Skinned Lemons. Wash the lemons and dry, and then Slice them very thin, without grating or squeezing into a bowl. Take the sugar and water and make a boiling syrup, and pour over the lemons, and let the whole mixture cool. Then add the orange juice. Take out the slices of lemon, and save them for later use. Strain the punc^ into an ice cream freezer, add the slices of lemon and liqueurs, and fneeze as hard as possible for three or four minutes. Then take a wooden .spoon and detach the frozen punch from the sides of the freezer and from the bottom, mix in with the inner liq- uid mixture, and cover and freeze again for three or four minutes, feepeat this four or five times. Serve in punch glasses. Frozen Champagne Punch. Ponche Glac6 au yin de Champagne. 6 Lemons. 2 Oranaes. 1 Pound of White Powdered Sugar, r 1 Pint of Water. % Pint of Champagne. Vi Gill of Brandy. Extract all thd juice from the oranges and lemons. Dissolve the sugar in bailing water, and when cold add the juice. Freeze very hard for four or five minutes, and when firm add the liquors, turning long enough to mix weU, and then pro- ceed to freeze as in Creole Punch. (See recipe.) Serve in punch glasses. The above recipe may be varied by adding any fruit juiceS in sea- son, always, as in Strawberry Punch, putting in two dozen or more whole stemmed berries for the above quan- tities of ingredients. Imperial Punch. Ponche a, I'Imperial. , 1 Kipe Pineapple. 4 Oranges. 2 Pounds of Sugar. The Finely-Grated Zest of 2 Lemons. 1 Pint Equal Parts of Maraschino, Noyeau, ■ Kirsch and Curaeoa. 1 Grated Nutmeg. 1 Pint of Champagne. . The Whites of 8 Eggs. 3 . Pints of Water. Make a syrup of the water and ths sfyrup. Peel and grate the pineap- ple very fine. Grate the zeat of two lemons very fine, and mix -vyith the pineapple. Add the juices of the oranges and lemons. Mix thorough- ly, and pour over all the boiling syrup. . Let it stand till cold. Then strain through a fine sieve into the Ice crdam freezer, pressing out all the Juice of the pineapple as you strain. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stifle froth, and add, mixing well. Add the liqueurs, ' stir "well, and then proceed to freeze as in "Creole Punch." When you ha^^e de- tached the frozen nunch from the sides and bottom of the freezer tot the third time, add the champagne. Let it continue freezing for several turns more, and serve immediately in punch glasses. Kirsch Punch. Ponche au Kirsch. 1 Dozen' Fine Louisiaua Oranges. 1 Gill of Kirsch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Pineapple Syrup. ■2 Lemons. 2 Dozen- Strawberries.' Take fine, fresh Louisiana orai^ges, and press out all the juice, and mash the pulp and etrain through a sieve. To each pint of juice allow one gill of Kirsch and two of the juice of two lemons. Sweeten to taste. Flavor with Pineapple Syrup, add whole strawberries when in season, and freeze as in Creole Punch. Serve in glasses. Louisiana Punch. Ponche a la Louisianaise. The Juice of 1 Large Louisiana Orange. The Juice of 4 Lemons. % Pound of Pulverized Sugar. 14 Pint of Water. 1 Gill of Kirsch. 1 Gill of Fine Kum. 1 Gill of Champagne. Put the sugar into a bowl and squeeze over the juices of the orange and lemons. Mix well till all the sugar is impregnated with the juices. Add a half- pint of cold water, and then add the Kirsch, and stir for five or six minutes. Strain all through a fine sieve into the ice cream freezer. Then remove the sieve and pour into the freezer the rum and champagne. Cover well, and let the mixture freeze for about five minutes. Then remove the cover and detach the mixture from the sides and bottom, and cover again and proceed as in "Ponche a la Cre- ole." (See recipe.) Serve in punch glasses. Roman Punch. Ponche. a. la Romaine. 1 Quart of Lemon Sherbet. 14 Pint of Champagne. ^ Pint of Jamaica Rum. 1 Gill of Maraschino. 1 Teaspoonful of -Vanilla. Make a Lemon, Sherbet, and freeze it very hard. Then add the liquors' 310 slowly, and beat well. Turn into a freezer, pack and cover it well, and let it stand for four or five hours. The punch will not freeze perfectly on account of the alcohol. The cor- rect way to serve it is in a rather liquid state, in glasses. Or take half a pint of lemon juice, the zest of two lemons, grated on sugar, one pint of rum, one and a half pints of brandy, two quarts of water, and three pounds of sugar, and freeze as above. This is a cheaper recipe. Still another way to make this punch is to take the juice of eight lemons and five oranges, three pints of sugar, and three pints of water. Add onei wineglassful of Jamaica rum, and two of Champagne, an(J the whites of three eggs, beaten to a froth. Freeze and serve in glasses. Royal Sherbet. Sorbet a. la Royale. 1 Dozen Fine Louisiana Oranges. 2 Tablespoonfula of Branfly. 2 TablespooDfuls of Orange Syrnp. Take fine, fresh Louisiana oranges, and press out all juice, and mash the pulp and strain through a sieve. To each pint of juice allow two ta- blespbonfuls of brandy and two of orange syrup. Sweeten to taste and freeze and serve according to the di- rections given for Creole Punch. FROZEN FRUITS. Des Fruits Glacgs. The variety of fruits always to be found in the New Orleans markets are the pleasure and surprise of visit- ors to the city, as well as a delight to the residents. No manner of serv- ing fruits in summer is more accept- able than the methods of freezing them in vogue among the Creoles. Remember that in freezing fruits they must always be mashed or cut very fine, for fruit freezes more quickly than liquid. Fresh fruits are always more delicious than canned fruits. The latter are rarely used for freezing in Creole homes, as fresh fruits in season are always to be found in our markets. The following recipe for freezing fruits will serve for almost all kinds of fruit: HoTV to Freeze Frulta. Take one pound of fruit, or one can, two cups of sugar, and one pint of water. Cut fine, and mix all the ingredients together. Then freeze in the ice cream freezer, according to directions already given for freez- ing. The proportions of ingredients used in freezing fruits are generally one pint of fruit, one pint of water and half a pound of sugar. Increase in ptoportion. Peaches arid such fruits as are watejy may often be frozen without addition of vrater. Serve with rich cream or milk. Frozen Apricots. Abricots Glacfis. 2 Fine, Rine Apricots. 2 cups of Susar. 1 Pint of Water or Cream. Pare the apricots, cut them in two, remove the stones, and cut in small pieces. Mash the fruit and the sUgar together, add the water or cream, and turn into the freezer and pro- ceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe Ice Cream.) Frozen Bananas. Bananes Glacfies. 1 Dozen Fine Bananas. % Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Suear or Cream. The Juice of 2 Oranees. Peel the bananas, cut them very fine and mash well; add the cream or water and the orange juice, turn into the freezer and pack away in ice and rock salt. Set to freeze according to directions given for freezing Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Frozen Cherries. Cerises GlacSes. 1 Pound of Ciierries. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar and add the water. Mix well and turn into the freezer and proceed to freeze as in directions for Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Serve with Whipped Cream or rich milk. Frozen Oranges. Oranges Glac6es. 6 Fine Oranges. ^4 Pound of Snear. 1 Pint ot Water. x'are the oranges, and grate or cut them into fine pieces. Mix well with the sugar and set aside for an hour. Add the water and mix thoroughly. Turn into a freezer and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Another delightful way is to cut off the tops of the oranges, about two inches deep; then) with a small and very sharp knife, remove the or- ange skin whole, being careful not to break. Set the orange covers to one side. Scoop out the inside of the oranges, being careful not to break the outer skin. Take these or- anges and arrange nicely in a square Biscuit Glacge mold, and set in a tub, the bottom of which has been filled with broken pieces of ice and rock salt. Prepare a Champagne Punch 311 (see recipe), fill the interiors of the oranges with this, set the orange covers on, and place the cover on the mold, covering , very tight. Cover well with broken pieces of ice and rock salt and set to freeze for an hour. Then take from the mold, place on a very cold dessert dish and serve immediately. Frozen Feaclies. Peches Glac6es. 12 Lar£e Peaches. 2 Cups of Sugar. 1 Pint of Water. Take twelve large peaches or one can, two cups of sugar, and one pint of water. Cut the peaches fine, and mix all the ingredients together. Then freeze in the ice cream freezer according to directions already given. Peaches, if very juicy, may often be frozen without addition of water. Serve with rich cream or milk. Frozen Pineapple. Ananas Glacfie's. 1 Larae Plneapnie. 1 Pound of Sunar. 1 Pint of Water. Pare the pineapples. Cut out the eyes, and then grate the fruit, or cut It very fine. Add the sugar and wa- ter and stir well. When the sugar Is thoroughly dissolved, turn the mixture into a freezer, and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See re- cipe.) Frozen StraTvberrles. Fraises Glacfe'es.- 1 Quart ot Strawberries. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Water. Mash the berries with the sugar and set aside for an hour. Add the water and mix well with the straw- berries. Turn the mixture '3nto the freezer and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream (see recipe). Serve with rich milk or Whipped Cream. Macedolne of Fruits. Jtfacedoine de Fruits. 1 Quart of Lemon Ice Cream. Tlie Juice of 3 Lemons. % Teaspoonful ot Vanilla Extract. 2 Ounces of Stoued Cherries. 2 Ounces ot Pineapple, Cut in Dice. 2 Ounces of Strawberries. 2 Ounces of Grapes. 2 Ounces of Fe&clieB. 2 Ounces of Apricots. 2 Ounces of Oranses. 1 Ounce of Candied Cherries. 1 Ounce of An::elica. 1 Ounce of Candied Pineapple. 1 Gill of Sherry Wine. Prepare a quart of Lemon Ice Cream (see recipe.) Add to this a half teaspoonful of vanilla, 2 ounces each of stoned cherries, pineap- ple cut into dice sliape, 2 ounces of strawberries, 2 ounces of grapes, apricots, peaches and grapes cut into small pieces, and the candied fruits in equal proportions. Add a gill of Sherry wine, mix all the fruits light- ly, "turn into a freezer and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Again this Macedolne may be pre- pared by using instead of the Lemon Cream, a pint of Syrup made of sugar and water, to which has been added the juice of three lemons. A very delightful and pretty way of freezing this Macedolne is to pre- pare the cream, mix the candied fruits and fresh fruits together; have ready a square ice cream mold, and place one-fourth of the lemon, cream at the bottom; divide the fruits into three parts, • and place one portion on top of the cream. Cover this with another portion of the cream, and lay on top the fruits. Again cover with the cream, and lastly with the fruits. Fill up the mold with the remaining portion of the cream, cover closely, pack in broken ice and rock salt, and set to freeze for two hours. Just before serving have ready a vessel with warm water, lift the mold and wash off rapidly, being very careful to remove all salt and ice. Carefully take the Macedolne of Fruits from the mold, turn into a cold dessert dish and serve immediately. CHAPTER XLII. FRUIT SYRUPS, CORDIAI,S, ETC. Des Sirops, de» Liqueurs, Etc. No book on Creole cookery would be complete without reference to those : delightful fruit syrups which, under the names of "Sirops," "Kata- Sas," "Granits," etc., enter so largely into the home and social life of the Creoles. Again, the ancient Creole housekeepers -are famous for the de- licious "Cordials" or "Liqueurs" that they put up each year. Anisette as grateful to the palate as that manu- factured by the famous French dis- tilleries is made at home by the Cre- oles, as also various kinds of do- mestic wines, than which a better quality could not be purchased from professional manufacturers. Before entering into a discussion of these "Sirops" and "Liqueurs," the Picayune will refer to the ancient custom the Creoles have of serving sweetened water after a hearty meal, and which, under the name of EAU SUCRfiE, has been handed down from genera- tion to generation as an integral part of the life of the Creole household. To one glass of fresh water allow one tablespoonful of sugar, or to a half glass allow a half tablespoonful stir till the sugar is dissolved, and drink after a hearty- meal. Every old Creole clings to his glass of "Bau Sucre." He claims that this custom accounts for the singular freedom that the Creoles, as a rule, enjoy from that distressing complaint, be- coming so common in America — Dys- pepsia. It is the rarest thing in the world to hear a Creole complain of any stomachic trouble," notwithstand- ing heavy dinners, numbers of courses, and richest viands and wines. The Eau Sucrfie is passed around the table at the. close of the meal, and the children; as well as their elders, enjoy the drink. Again "Eau Sucrg" is used by all Creole mothers as a sedative for their little ones. Just before kiss- ing her babes "Good-night," the Cre- ole mother will give them a small glass of "Eau Sucr6e." It is claimed that it insures digestion and perfect Bleep. "Bau SuorS" parties were famous in old New Orleans in those happy, Innocent days when friend met friend in social gatherings for the pleasure ol social Intercourse, and not for the sake of the grand spread of fancy viands and wines that hava become such a source of terror in our day to the housewife of limited means who wishes to entertain her friends. "With that beautiful old- time courtesy so peculiar to the Cre- oles, the poor young woman who en- tertained was placed on an equal with her richer sister, for it became a kind if unwritten law that be- yond a glass of lemonade and cake, or a glass of "Bau SucrSe," nothing more was expected of the household. There was no tax. no drain; the faubourg laughed and sang and danced, night after, night, on Iced "Bau Sucrge," or Iced Lemonade, 3,nd Orgeats, and Ice Creams, with as much zest as when grand , suppers were spread and champagne flowed. There were no heartaches, no pangs, no sad thoughts, because Madame So-and-So, who lived in the Rue Es- planade or -Bue Rampart, had given a grander ball than her poorer sister, who lived in the Rue de Sons Bn- fants or the Rue d'Amour. All this has passed away with the changing life of the old French quarter. But "Eau Sucrfee" remains, and the Pica- yune refers to it upon the merits claimed by the Creoles, that it pro- motes easy digestion and insures freedom from insomnia. These claims are borne out by the longevity and good spirits for which the. race Is famous. SYRUPS. Sirops. Under this heading are classed .those delightful beverages of fruits or nuts, served by the Creole house- wives during the summer season. Of a hot, sultry day, if you enter a well-regulated Creole household, the first thing Madame will do will be to regale you with a glass of Lemonade, or "Iced Orgeat," or "Iced Pineapple," etc. The syrups are put up and bot- tled by Madame herself, and are al- ways at hand. Old "Tante Zizi," in bandana and tignon, knows the cus- toms of the household well, and does not need to be told by Madame to prepare a nice, cooling glass of "Si- rog" for her guest. In a few mo- ments you will see her enter the parlor or sitting room with a dainty 313 silver salver, covered Vlth a snowy napkin, and bearing, according to, the number of visitors, the glasses of Iced "Sirop." Of an evening, as the family sit out on the "Esplanade" or the gallery to enjoy the freshen- ing breezes, she will come again un- bidden to bring her "people" the daily refreshing summer drink. It is all these pretty little customs and touches that make life in a Creole household so pleasant and full of variety. General Directions for Making 'Syrups. The Plain Syrup, that is the basis of all fruit syrups, is simply sugar and water boiled together in the pro- portion of two pounds of sugar to a pint and a half of water. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called "Le Petit Casse" (see recipe under heading "Sugar as Em- ployed in Candy-Making"), or crack, that is, cook it till it instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers after dipping them In cold water to enable one to test. Then add the Fruit Syrup, and mix thor- oughly. Let it boil for about five minutes; take off the fire and let it get almost cold, then bottle very tight. This is the invariable rule to be followed in making syrups of fruits. One quart of fruit when mashed and pressed will make a pint of Fruit Syrup, to be added to the Plain Syrup given above. Apricot Symp. Sirop d'Abricots. 12 Pints of Apricot Syrup. 1 Gallon o£ Plain Syrup. 1 Ounce of Essence ot Apricots. Pare and stone the apricots, then cut them into pieces, pound and mash well and set them aside for thirty-six hours In a cool place. Then strain through a bag, pressing out all the juice. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called "Le Petit Casse.' (See general di- rections for Making Syrups). Then add the apricot juice and mix thor- oughly; let it boil for five minutes, take o«E the fire, let it get almost cold, add the essence, and then bottle for use. Banana Syrup. Sirop de Bananes. 2 Pints of Banana Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. V4 Ounce of Banana Essence. Tlie Juice of a Lemon. Peel the bananas, then cut into small pieces and pound and mash well and set aside In a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then strain through a bag and proceed In ex- actly the same manner as for Ap- ricot Syrup (see recipe), and add the essence and lemon juice when about to bottle. Blackberry Syrup. Sirop de Mflres. % Pint of Blackberry Juice. 1 Gallon of Syrup. Pick, stem and wash the black- berries, then pound and mash them well set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then strain through a bag, pressing out all the juice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apricot Syrup. (See recipe.) Cherry Syrup. Sirop de Cerises. 12 Pints of Clierry Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. Seed' the cherries, and stem, pound and masTi them well, and let them stand for thirty-six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a bag. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called "Le Petit Casse," or crack (see recipe under chapter on Creole candies), that is, till it instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers, after dipping them in cold water to enable you to test. Then add the fruit syrups and mix thoroughly. Let it boil for about five minutes, take off the fire, let it get almost cold, and then put up in bottles. Cranberry Syrup. Sirop d'Airelles. 3 Pints of Cranberry Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. % Ounce of Soluble Essence of Lemon. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for Currant Syrup (see recipe below), adding twice the quantity of sugar, and adding the essence after the syrup has somewhat cooled and you are about to bottle it. Currant Syrup. Sirop de Groseilles. 2 Pints of Currant Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. Pick, seed, wash and dry the cur- rants carefully. Then pound them well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Make a Plain Sy- rup (see recipe), and proceed as in the (jeneral Directions for Making Fruit Syrups. (See directions.) Currant Syrup with Raspberries. Sirop de Groseilles FramboisSe. 1 Pint of Currant Juice. 2 Pounds of Sugar. 6 Pounds ' of Currants. 1 Pound of Sour Cherries. 1 Pound of Raspberries. 114 Pints of Water. The cherries and raspberries are not necessary, but they give the sy- 314 rup a most delightful flavor and aroma. Pick, wash, seed and dry the qurrants carefully. Seed the cher- ries, and .stem them and the rasp- berries, pound and mash them well, and let them stand for thirty-six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a bag. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called "L.& Petit CassS," or crack, that Is, till it Instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers, after dip- ping them in cold water, to enable you to test. Then add the fruit sy- rups, and mix thoroughly. Let it boil for about five minutes, take off the fire, let it get almost cold, and then put up in bottles. Grape Syrup. Sirop de Raisins. 1 Gallon Plain Synip. , 2 Pints of Grape Juice. % -mt of Grape or Catawba Wine. Pick, wash, stem and seed the grapes; then pound and mash well, and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then strain through . a bag, pressing out all the juice; make a Plain Syrup, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Cur- rant Syrup, and add the wine when you are about to bottle. Lemon Syrnp. Sirop de Citron. 8 Ounces of Lemon Juice. 15 Ounces of Sucar. % Ounce of Extract of Lemon. Press the juice from the lemons and grate the zest of four into the syrup; set aside in a cool place for six'or eight houi-s. Then strain care- fully through a bag. Make a Plain Syrup, using the proportions of fif- teen ounces of sugar to a pint and a half of water. Prepare a- gallon of syrup, and then proceed as in the General Directions for Making Sy- rups (see directions). Add 'the es- sence when about to bottle. Lilme Syrup. Sirop de Limons. 2 Pints of Lime Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. % Ounce of Soluble Essence of Limes, Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for Lemon Syrup, and add the essence when about to bottle. Orange Syrup. Sirop d'Orange. 2 Quarts of Orange Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. X Ojmce of Lemon Juice. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for Lemon Syrup, and bottle ■Vsrhen almost cold. This is a stand- ing Creole Syrup. Orgeat Syrup. Sirop d'Orgeat. 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds. 4 Ounces of Bitter Almonds. 2 Pounds of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. 2 Ounces of Orange Flower Water. The Zest of a Lemon, Do not throw the almonds into hot water and' blanch them, as in other recipes for almonds, but throw them into cold water, after shelling them, until the peeling or skin comes off easily. Then mash them and pound them in a mortar till they are reduced to a fine pow- der, adding, from time to time, a little water and the well-grated zest of the lemon, When this paste is perfectly made, m.oisten it with one- half of the water, and then squeeze it hard through a linen cloth, each end of which is held by some one, when you will have drained thor- oughly of all milk. Then return the paste to the mortar, throw over the rest of the water, mix thoroughly, pounding well, and then squeeze again through the towel. Put the sugar into a farina boiler, and let it boil to the degree of "Le Petit Cassg," or crack,' that is, till it forms a thick syrup that will not cling to the teeth in tasting, or instantly snaps asunder between the fingers after testing in cold water. Then take the syrup off the fire and add the milk of almonds, stirring well. Return it to the fire, and let it sim- mer gently till it begins to boil. Let it boil for several minutes. Then take it off the fire and let it cool. When cold, add the orange flower water. ■ and mix well. Then drain all through a cloth or bag, and fill and seal the bottles. Orgeat, being made of the milk of almonds, easily decomposes or sours, because the oil of almonds, being lighter than the other ingred- ients, rises to the top. For this reason, it is well to look at the bot- tles frequently, and shake them daily. This will preserve the exact mingling of the mixture, and also preserve the Orgeat for use. Orgeat is a great Creole syrup. It is not only a most delicate drink, but a healthy, popular and tradi- tional one. In old Creole households upon the birth of a babe, the friends who call to congratulate the par- ents upon the new addition to the household are served with a glass of Orgeat, the mother drinking with her friends in- honor of the little angel just sent from heaven. This Is an ancient Creole custom, dating from earliest days in Louisiana. Use only the finest white loaf su- gar in making Orgeat Syrup. 315 Peach Syrup. Sirop de Peches. 2 Pints of Peach Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. ^ Ounce of Peach Essence. Pare and stone the peaches, then pound and mash well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Strain through a bag, pressing out all the juice, then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apricot Sy- rup, and add the essence as the syrup cools and you are about to bottle it. Pineapple Syrup. Sirop d' Ananas. 2 Pints of Pineauple Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Bycus. 1 Ounce of Lemon Juice. Pare the pineapples, cutting out the eyes and the core. Then cut Into very fine pieces and mash and pound I well, or grate the pineapple, which is better. Set aside for thir- ty-six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a fine muslin bag, pressing out all the juice. Then make a Plain Syrup and proceed as in the General Directions for Mak- ing Fruit Syrups. (See directions.) Plum Syrup. Sirop de Prunes. 2 Pints of Plum Juice. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. Stone the plums, pound and mash well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for Apricot Syrup. (See recipe.) StraTTberry Syrup. Syrbp de Fraises. 2 Pints of Strawberry Syrup. 1 Gallon of Plain Syruo. 1 Ounce of Easpberrj- Essence. . Pick, stem and wash the straw- berries, then pound and mash them well, and let them stand for thirty- six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a bag. Cook the su- gar and water till it forms the sy- rup called "Le Petit Cass6," or crack, that is, till it instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers, after dipping them in cold water, to enable you to test. Then add the fruit syrups, and mix thor- oughly. Let it boil for about five minutes, take off the fire, let it get almost cold, and then put up in bot- tles. Raspberry Syrup. 2 Pints of Easpberry Syrup. 1 Gallon of Plain SyruD. 1 Ounce of Easpberry Esence. Pick, stem and wash the ber- ries a,nd proceed in exactly the same manner as for Strawberry Syrup, adding the essence when about to bottle. Vanilla Syrup. Sirop de Vanille. 1 Gallon of Plain Syrup. 3 Ounces of Extract of Vanilla. >4 ounce of Caramel. Boil the syrup and add the Cara- mel. (See recipe.) Drain, and then add the essence of vanilla. Stir well and bottle. Blacltberry Vinegar. Vinaigre de Mflres. 2 Quarts of Blackberries. 1 Quart of Good French Vinegar, Put one quart of blackberries into a jar or deep vessel, and pour over the vinegar. Let them stand for twenty-four hours longer. Strain them again, and again add the fruit, repeating this operation and letting stand twenty-four hours thi:ee times. Then strain through a muslin bag, and add one pound of white sugar to every pint of the liquor, and boil the whole in a porcelain kettle for half an hour. When cold, bottle it and keep it in a cool place. Black- berry Vinegar made after this man- ner will keep for years, improving •with age. Currant Vinegar and Cherry Vin- egar are prepared in the same man- ner as above. Orange Vinegar. Vinaigre d'Oranges. 36 Oranges. 1 Quart of Good French Cider. Sugar in Proportion of Two-thirds of a Pound to 1 Quart of Orange Syrup. Peel the oranges. Slice them very thin and cover with pure cider vin- egar, and let them stand for thre? of four days. Then mash them through a cloth, straining as long as the juice runs clear. To every quart of juice allow one and two-thirds pounds of fine white sugar. Then boil all together for about ten min- utes, and skim very carefully, until no scum rises upon the surface. Then take the mixture from the fire, and when it cools somewhat, bottle it. Put a tablespoonful of this extract in a glass of cold ice water in warm weather, and you will have one of the most refreshing of the Creole summer drinks; Pineapple Vinegar. Vinaigre d'Ananas. 3 Pineapples. 1 Quart of Pure Cider Vinegar. Sugar In the Proportion of Two-thirds of a Pound to One Quart of the Juice. Cover the pineapples, which you will have nicely sliced, with pure cider vinegar, and let them stand for three or four days. Then mash them through a, cloth, straining as long as the juice runs clear. To every quart, of juice allow one and 316 two-thirds pounds of fine white su- gar. Then boil all together for about ten minutes,, and skim very carefully, until no scum rises upon the surface. Then take the mixture from the fire, and when it cools somewhat bottle it. Put a table- spoonful of this extract in a glass of cold ice water in warm weather, and serve as a summer drink. Raspberry Vlneg^ar. Vinaigre de Pramboises. 2 Quarts of Baspberries. 1 Quart of Good French Vinegar. Put one quart of raspberries into a jar or deep vessel, and pour over the vinegar. Let them stand for twenty-four hours, and then strain through a jelly bag, and add the other quart of raspberries, and let them stand for twenty-four hours longer. Strain them again, and again add the fruit, repeating this operation of straining and -letting stand twenty-four hours three times. Then strain through a muslin bag, and add one pound of white sugar to every pint of the liquor, and boil the whole in a porcelain kettle for halt an hour. When cold, bottle it and keep it in a cool place. Rasp- berry Vinegar made ofter this man- ner will keep for years, improving with age. The Creoles always keep it with Strawberry Vinegar or Black- berry Vinegar on hand, simply put- ting a teaspoonful of it in a glass of sweetened ice water. It is a most refreshing summer beverage, and is especially grateful to the sick and delicate. Strawberry Vinegar. Vinaigre de Praises. 2 Quarts of Strawberries. 1 Quart of Good French Vlnegtr. Put one quart of strawberries into a jar or deep vessel, and pour over the vinegar. Let them stand for twenty-four hours, and then strain through a jelly bag, and add the other quart of strawberries, and let them stand for twenty-four hours longer. Strain thera again, and again add the fruit, repeating this operation of straining and letting stand twenty-four hours three times. Then strain through a muslin bag and add one pound, of white sugar to every pint of the liquor, and boil the whole in a porcelain kettle for half an hour. When cold, bottle it and keep it in a cool place. CHAPTER XLIII. DOMESTIC WIJfES, CORDIALS AND DRIIVKS. Vins, Liqueurs et Boissons de Me- nage. Under this heading are comprised a great variety of fruits distilled in wine, or alcohol, or brandy, and sweetened or flavored with aro- matic substances. These ■ prepara- tions are called according to their mode of preparation, "Ratafias," "Granits," 'X/iqueurs," or "Fruits k I'Eau-de-Vie." The Creoles always make their own' anisettes, cordials and other liqueurs. RATAFIAS. These are pleasant beverages much affected by the Creoles, and are very easily prepared by the in- fusion of the juices of fruits or of the fruits themselves, nuts and odor- ous flowers, in good French brandy. To these are often added various aromatic substances capable of im- parting a delightful flavor to the liqueur. A Ratafla Liqueur is much more easily prepared than a cordial; the preparation requires far less time, and there is no necessity of a dis- tilling apparatus. Our Louisiana fruits are very juicy, and therefore no other liquor than good French brandy is or should ever be used in preparing a fruit Ratafiia. The berries should always be well- bruised, to render the Ratafia aro- matic and the seeds should be well- pounded. If flowers are used, they should be just withered and steeped. Water should be used very sparingly and only in suflScient quantity to aid in the diffusion and dissolving of the sugar. The length of time that Is re- quired for the infusion must always be in proportion to the nature of. the aroma. Good judgment must be the final test. If the infusion is too short, the flavor will be weak and sometimes insipid; if too long, you will have a bitter and acrid liquor. In order to separate the Ratafla, the liqueur must be decanted after 3L7 Infusion and strained. It should al- ways, however, be allowed to stand long enough to settle well before the Ratafia is bottled, or there will be a thick deposit of sedimeiit, o* the liquor will be turbid and murky.- All Ratafias must be bottled and very closely sealed. It is of the unmost importance that they be kept in cool, shady places, else the spirits will evaporate and the liq- ueur itself will slowly but surely de- compose. Proportions of Ingredients for Rata, fla lilqueurs. In making Ratafias observe the following proportions in mixing the Ingredients: To three parts of the filtered juice of any kind of rfuits or berries add one quart of good, old French Cog- ac, three pounds of white loaf su- gar, clarified, with three pints of water, and a dessertspoonful of Es- sence of Cloves, Vanilla and Cinna- mon. These should be thoroughly mixed and amalgamated; then the Ratafia should be bottled and sealed and labeled. Do not use until the end of six months; twelve months' standing will produce a far finer cordial. The Creoles prepare their Christmas and New Tear cordials a year in adyance, and also the Rata- fias, which are served with crushed Ice in summer. •, Use filtered Mississippi River wa- ter in making, all cordials and Ra- tafias, and only the finest clarified white loaf sugar. < HoTT to Filter Cordials and Ratafias. The filtering is of the utmost im- portance. A good home-made filter may be improvised by fitting a piece of felt into a funnel, very closely. Some use flannel, but the felt is far better. Filtering paper is sold by all druggists. Put the funnel in the mouth of the bottle, fit in the paper, pour in the mixture and let it filter slowly. Again, others use the ordi- nary brown or white paper, but this allows the aroma to escape, and the taste of the paper clings to the cor- dial. If you wish the cordial to be very transparent, take very dry, clear, transparent isinglass, and cut it very, very thin. Then dissolve it with white wine until it is perfectly liquid. Put it into bottles and pre- serve for use. When needed, coat the inside of the strainer with this, using -a light brush or sponge. It will form a glue around the funnel. Pour the cordial or liqueur through this, straining several times, again and again, until it becomes perfectly transparent. Strain it the last time into bottles, and snal very tight. You will then have u, clear, limpid cordial or liqueur that will not have lost its aroma by evaporation. This simple method njay be un- derstoo(J by even a child, and home- nlade cordials are not .only very de- lightful, but far less expensive than the imported ones. Always have the Cognac as old as possible. Absinthe or Worinvrood Ratafla. Ratafia d'Absinthe. 4 Pounds of Wormwood. 8 Ounces of Junicer Berries, 2 Ounces of Ground Cinnamon. 4 Drams of Angelica Rum. 4 Pints of Good French Brandy. iBruise and pound the wormwood and juniper berries, and steep them with four pints of brandy and the Angelica rum for twenty days. Then distill the mixture till it is reduced to three pounds, and re-distill till this is reduced to two pounds or two pints. Then add two and a half pounds of fine white' powdered sugar and two pints of water, fil- tered, and eight ounces of doubly- distilled orange flower water. Fil- ter and bottle. Aniseed Ratafia. Ratafia d'Anis. 4 Ounces of Aniseed. 2 Pints of Good French Cognac. 1 Pint of Water. 1^ Pounds of Susar. Bruise the aniseed and steep them for one month in the brandy. Then pass them through a sieve. Add a syrup made of one pint of water and one pound and a half of sugar. Fil- ter and bottle. If you wish to make it in larger quantities, take two ounces of green aniseed, four ounces of star aniseed, and after bruising and pounding the seeds well, steep ■ them in seven quarts of good brandy for one month. Then strain and add a syrup made- of six pounds and a half of sugar and two quarts of river wa- ter, filtered. Mix well and then fil- ter and bottle. Angelica Ratafia. Ratafla d'Angelique. 4 Ounces of Angelica Stalk or Leaves. 1 Ounce of Anfielica Seed. 1 Drachm of Nutmee. % DracJam of Ceylon Cinnamon. 1 Drachm of Coriander Seed, ii Drachm of Cloves. Bruise the seeds and leaves well by pounding, and steep for two months in an earthen pitcher, well- covered, having a'dded all the spices, etc. Then take out, strain and add a syrup 'made of four and a quarter pounds of sugar and two and a half pints of water. Filter and bottle, and keep in a cool place. If you wish to make it in smaller quantities, to four ounces of An- gelica allow one pint of good bran- dy, one-half pint of water, one pound of sugar, and spices in pro- portion. Orange Flower Ratafia. Ratafia a, la Fleur d'Oranger. 2 Pounds of Orange Blossoms. 10 Pints of Brandy. 4 Founds of Suzar. IVi. Pints of Water. Steep two pounds of orange, blos- soms, well bruised and pounded, in ten and a half pints of good brandy for fifteen days, and then add a sy- rup made of four ppunds of sugar and one and three-quarters pints ot water. Filter and bottle. Or take a half pound of orange flower blossoms, and Infuse them in four pints of good brandy for five days. Strain through a sieve, add a syrup made of three pounds of sugar and two pints of water, filter and bottle. FRUIT RATAFIAS. Ratafia de Fruits. In all Fruit Ratafias, whether strawberries, raspberries, blackber- ries, damsons, cherries, plums, red and black currants, use the pro- portions given above for "Raspberry Ratafia," if large quantities are de- sired, and the proportions given in "Proporitons of Ingredients for Ra- tafia Liqueurs" if less. Always mix thoroughly and amalgamate well. Bottle in pint bottles, well-corked and sealed, and do not use for at least six months. Orange Ratafia. Ratafia d'Oranges. 3 Oranffes. The Zest of 3 Oranges. 1 Pint ot Brandy. 1 Pound of Sugar. Grate the zest of three fine Louisi- ana oranges, very, very fine. Place this oil or zest which you will have rubbed on one pound of powdered sugar in a jar, add one pint of good brandy or alcohol, and the juice of three fine oranges, from which you will have taken out the seeds. Let the infusion stand for three days, then filter and bottle for use. Feaeli Kernel Ratafia, Ratafia aux Noyau de Peches ou d'Abricots. W Pound Each ot Peach or Apricot Kernels. 4 Pints of Brandy. 214 Pounds of Sugar. 2 Pints ot Water. Pound the peach or apricot ker- ntis — some also pound the peach stones — steep them for one whole month in four pints of brandy in an earthen jar, and at the end of that tl-me add a syrup made of two and a half pounds of sugar and two pints of water. Mix all well together, and then filter as directed above, and bottle and seal, and keep in a cool, shady place. Ratafia de Noyau is one of the standing Creole drinks, and is most agreeable, the taste being of a deli- cate vanilla and almonds combined. Pomegranate Ratafia. Ratafia de Grenades. 15 Ripe Ponie;3;ranateB. 4 Quarts of Good French Brandy. 3 Founds ot Sucar. Cut the pomegranates in slices and steep them for fifteen days in the brandy. Then squeeze through a cloth, add a syrup made with three pounds of sugar, and filter and bot- tle for use. Raspberry Ratafia. Ratafia de Framboises. 8 Founds of Raspberries. 2 Gallons of Brandy. 7 Founds of Sugar. 3 Quarts of Water. Steep the berries, which you will have mashed well, for one month, or at least fifteen days, in the brandy, and then add a syrup made of the sugar and water. Filter and pro- ceed to bottle as directed. If smaller proportions are desired, use the quantities given in general "Proportions of Ingredients for Ra- tafias." The larger proportions are also given, because the longer the Ratafia stands the better it is, and it is much easier to make a quantity at a time that will last several sea- sons. Ratafia of Four Frnita. Ratafia des Quatre Fruits. 12 Pounds of Fine, Kipe Cherries, 3 Founds of Sour Cherries, 1 Pounds of Currants. 3 Pounds of Easpherries. 1 Pint of the Best French Brandy. 4 Ounces of Sugar to Every Pint of Fruit Liquor. Stone the fruit and stem the ber- ries. Put all together in a bowl, and mash well. Let the fruit stand lor two hours. Then press out the juice through a cloth or sieve. Add one pint of the best French brandy and four ounces of sugar to every pint of liquor obtained. Put hi a stone jar, cover tight, and let It stand for a month. At the end of the time strain and filter. Then bot- tle and keep in a cool place. Strawberry Ratafia. Ratafia de Fraises. 8 Pounds of Strawberries. 2 Gallons of Brandy. 7 Pounds of Sugar. 3 Quarts ot Water. Steep the berries, which you will- 319 ha-ve mashed w-sll, for on« montli, or • at least fifteen days, in the brandy, and then add a syrup made of the stigar and water. Filter and 'pro- ceed to bottle as directed. If smaller proportions are de- sired, use the quantities given in general "Proportions of Ingredients for Ratafias." The larger propor- tions are also given because the longer the Ratafia stands the bet- ter it is, and it is much easier to make a quantity at a time that will last several seasons. FRUIT "WATERS. Eau de Fruits Glac§s. These are famous Creole summer beverages, and are always served to friends when visiting of an evening, or at evening receptions and reun- ions in summer. They are made, for the most part, of fruit juices and syrups, but they are also made of different kinds of punch, and from ccffee. The Orangeade, the Orgeat and the Lemonade, with the Claret Cup, are the principal. Unlike the Ratafias, they are served soon after concoc- tion. In freezing, the Creoles put the mixture into water bottles or earthen jugs. These are set on ice and twirled around. As the contents become frozen a wooden spatula is thrust into the jar for the purpose of Scraping down the portion that is frozen into the liquid center. Aromatic Water. Eau Aromatiaue. The Zest of 3 Limea. The Zest of 4 Lemons. 4 Ounces of Orange Flowers. 1 Ounce of Sweet Basil. 6 Ounces of Hoarhound. 7 Pints of Brandy or Alcohol. 3 Pounds of Sugar. 1 Quart of Distilled Water. Take the grated, macerated zests- of the limes and lemons and the bruised fresh orange blossoms, Basil and White Hoarhound, and steep it In seveia pints of fine French Brandy or alcohol for ten days. Then distill the liquor by heating in a water bath and covering the saucepan with a piece of kid. In which you have made small holes. Add a syrup made of three pounds of sugar and one quart of distilled water; strain after mixing well, and bottle for use. Cherry Water. Eau de Cerises. 2 Pounds of ■ Cherries. 1 Ijemon. 8 Ounces of Sugar. Stone the cherries and press the juice from the pulp Into a porcelain vessel, and then add a little water and the juice of one lemon. Stir well. and let stand for two hours. Then wash the stones well and pound them fine, and add to the cherries, and add eight ounces of sugar. Let all stand one hour. Then strain the mixtuVe and stir well and filter. Set on loe till ready to use. Serve in glasses with crushed Ice. LEMONADE. Limonade. Lemonade is among the most de- lightful and most commonly used ot all fruit waters. There are few homes in New Orleans in which it is not a standing offering for family use and for visitors during the hours of the long summer day. Lemonade is always served very cold in sum- mer, but there is a hot lemonade, which is extensively used by the Creoles during winter days for va- rious purposes, mostly medicinal. Iced liCmonade. Limonade Glac§e. 1 Dozfin Lemons. 1 Pound of Sugar. 2 Quarts of Water. Cracked Ice. Choose the finest and freshest ripe lemons. Rasp- the rind with white, crushed sugar, in order to extract the fine aromatic oil that lurks in the zest. Then squeeze the juice of the lemon, and strain it, and add the sugar and the necessary quan- tity of water. In making lemonade never use the rinds of the lemons, except to slice one daintily and place in the glass when about to serve the lemonade. The rind simply put into the lemonade does not add 'to the strength, but imparts a bitter and often disagreeable flavor. Ex- tract the fine oils in the rind by rasping, as indicated, on crushed su- gar. In making cold lemonade for six persons, allow si? ounces of su- gar to five lemons, and one quart of water. Increase the quantity in proportion to number to be served. Serve with crushed ice. Hot Lemonade. Limonade Chaude. 6 J-«mons. 2 Quarts of Water.; yz Pound of Sugar. Boil the lemons Tvhole and un- peeled till the water is reduced to one quart. Sweeten and serve. Or proceed in exactly the same manner as above, using hot water instead of cold. The Creoles sometimes boil the lemons when used for medicinal purposes. Frog: Lemonade. 2 Dozen Lemons. 1 Pound of Sugar. 2 Quarts of Water. 1 Pineapple. 2 Bottles of Seltzer Water. 3 Dozen Fine Strawberries. This famous drink was originated' 320 In honor of the Picayune Frog at a gieat charity festival given in New Orleans for the benefit of the News- boys" Home. The Picayune, in com- mon with other newspapers of the city, entered into the festival for the purpose of lifting the burden of indebtedness that rested on the home. It held a booth, presided over by the ladies of the Picayune staff and a number of the most prominent la- dies of New Orleans. A prominent Creole lady kept the Picayune Frog Tent, in which lemonade only was dispensed. She concocted a delicious beverage, and named it "Frog Lem- onade." The booth was the great at- traction of the festival. The Pica- yune led the festival, outdistancing all other papers three to one as re- garded the other largest English daily in New Orleans, and running far ahead of the various other news- papers five and six to . one, in the total amount of over fourteen thou- sand dollars raised through the fes- tival. It was all attributed to the great and unfailing popularity of the picayune and of its famous lit- tle Weither Prophet, the Frog. Frog Lemonade is made as follows: Take a large punch bowl. Put into it one pound of sugar, three quarts of water, -the Juice of two dozen lemons, the juice of one pineapiit'e, two bottles of seltzer water. Mix all well. Add three dozen fine, large strawberries, and decorate with slices of pineapple and lemon sliced very thin. In c-ise tliere is not suf- ficient sug.ar, sweeten again to taste. Put a. large piece of ice in the bowl. When ready to serve, fill glasses one- duarter full of crushed ice, and fill up with the lemonade, (being care- ful to tiave several stiawberries and a slice or two of lemon and pine- apple in each glass. This lemonade Is delicious. 3111k of Almonds. Orgeat. 6 Ounces of Almonds. 1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. S Ounces of Loaf SusaV. 3 Pints of Filtered Rlyer Water. % Gill of Orange Flower Water. Blanch and peel the almonds, and Bcak them in cold water for several bi.urs. Th3n pound them thoroughly Into a pulp, adding as you pound a half gill of orange flower water. Put this into an earthen vessel with eight ounces of the finest and whitest loaf sugar. Add three pints of clear, fil- tered watsr, and then stir all well together. Return to the mortar. Pound W3H and strain. Stir well and set the vessel on ice. At the end of an hour it will be ready for use. This is a delightful summer firink. Orimse Water. Eau d'Orange. The Zest of 6 Louisiana Orangeg. 4 Ounces of Oranse Blossoms. 7 Pints of Brandy. i Pounds of Fine White Sugar. 3 Quarts of Water. Macerate the zests of the oranges and orange blossoms and orange juice in the brandy for eight days. Then .listill in a "bain-marie," or v/ater bath, as indicated. Add a syrup made of four pounds of sugar and three pints of water, strain and filter, and bottle for use. Strawberry water. Baa de Fraises. % Pint of Strawberry Juice. 1 Quart of Water. 8 Ounces of Sugar. Choose fine ripe strawberries, stem and bruise them in a little wa- ter, and let them stand for an hour or so. Then squeeze them in a cloth and pour the juice off clear. To half a pint of the juice add one quart ot water and eight ounces of sugar. Stir well, strain, and put it on ics, and serve as ne2ded during the sul- try summer days. Raspberry and Currant waster may be made in the same way, as also pineapple and jrang-^. ORANGEADE. 3 Oranges. The Juice of 1 Lemon. ,4 Ounces of Susar. , IV} Pints ot Water. The oranges must be ripe, juicy Louisiana oranges. Peel one orange and cut it in thin slices lengthwise, and then put it into a vessel with four ounces of sugar and a pint and a half of water. Squeeze the juice of the lemon and two more oranges into another vessel, and stir well. Then pour it on the sliced orange. Let it stand for a few minutes, and it is ready to use. Strain if you desire. CREAM SYRTJPS. SiroDs i la CrSme. Cream Syrups are distinctively French and were introduced into America by the French settlers of Louisiana. The early Creole set- tlers of New Orleans applied the French methods of making syrups to our fruits, flowers, herbs, etc., and thus we have distinctive Creola Cream Syrups. Cream Syrups are lighter than Ratafias. 321 Abslntlie Cream. Crfime d' Absinthe. 7 Pints of Brandy. H Pound of Wormwood Heads. The Zest of 2 Lemons. 3 Oranges, Thinly Sliced, 6 Pounds of Sugar. 3 Pints of Water. Pound the ■wormwood and infuse it for two days In the brandy with the zest of the lemons or the sliced oranges. Then distill the liquor to one-half the quantity. Dissolve six pounds of the finest white sugar in three pints of water, let it cool, and mix thoroughly with the brandy and wormwood. Then strain it and put In tightly corked bottles. Bay Leaf Cream. CrSme de Laurier. 3% Ounces of Laurel Leaf. 2% . Ounces of Myrtle Flowers. 1 Gallon of Brandy. 6 Pounds of White Sugar. 314 Pints of Water. 12 ClOTcs. li of a Nutmeg. Bruise or pound the bay leaves, the myrtle flowers, the coarsely- grated nutmeg and the cloves, and pour over them one gallon of brandy. Then reduce over a gentle fire the sugar and water till ■well-dissolved. Let it cool. Then mix the Tvholo with the bay leaves and brandy, mix well, filter, put into tightly corked bottles, and preserve. Cacoa Cream. Cr&me de Cacoa. 1 Pound of Cacoa Beans. 2 Quarts of Brandy. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. 1 Tablespoontul of Vanilla. The Cacao bean may be purchased ficm the druggists or first-class grocers. Roast the beans to a light brown and grind as you would grind coffee. Infuse in two quarts (.f Brandy for six days. Then make a syrup with the sugar and water; reduce to one-half and let it cool. Then add the Cacao and Brandy. Flavor with Vanilla. Strain and bottle for use. Cherry ■Water Cream. Cr&me de Cerises. 7 Pints of Cherry Water. 4 Ounces of Orange Flower Water. 4 Pounds of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Take seven pints of Cherry Water and distill it to nearly one-halt. Then add four ounces of Orange Flower 'Water. Let it stand for four or five hours. Dissolve four pounds of sugar in a quart of distilled and filtered Mississippi water, and set It over the fire till well-blended and dissolved. Take it off, and let it cool. Then add. the Cherry Water, strain and bottle. Tiiis is a most de- licious summer beverage, and if kept in very tightly corked bottles It will keep a very long time. Cream of Rosea. CrSme de Roses. 3^ Pounds of Rose Leaves. 2 Quarts- of Brandy. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Pound the rose leaves in a stone vessel, and then pour over the bran- dy, and infuse for six days. Distill the liquor by boiling to one-half in a "bain-marie." Then mix it thor- oughly with one pound of sugar, dissolved in a quart of water or in rose water. Color with a few drops of Cochineal, and filter and bottle for use. ElHxIr of 'Violets. Elixir de "Violettes. 10 Ounces of 'Syrup of Violets. 4 Ounces of Filtered Raspberry Juice. 4 Pounds of Sugar. 2 Quarts of the Best Brandy or Alcohol. 2 Pints of Water. Make a syrup with the sugar and water, and let it cool. Mix the vlo- let syrup and the Raspberry Juice, and add it to the alcohol. Add the sugar syrup, when cool, mix all thoroughly, strain and bottle tightly. Mint Cream. CrSme de Menthe. 1 Pound of Freshly-Gathered Mint. The Zests of 5 Lemons. 7 Pints of Fine Old French Cognac. 2 Drachms of Essence of Peppermint, 4 Pounds of Susar. 2 Quarts of Water. Gather the mint very fresh, and ■wash lightly in fresh water. Cut Ix very fine, and add the grated zests of the lemons. Pound well in a stone jar, and macerate or steep for eight days in seven pints of good brandy. Then distill it, or boil to one-half, covering the spout of the boiler with a piece of kid in which you have cut small holes. Then add a half drachm of essence of peppermint. Dissolve four pounds of sugar in three pints of water, and let it cool. Then mix it thoroughly with the mint infusion and let it stand for a half hour. Then filter and bottle it, and keep in a cool, shady place. Mocha Cream. Cr&me de Mocha. 1 Pound of the Best Mocha Coffee. The Zest of 1 Orange. 7 Pints of Brandy. 4 Pounds of Sugar. 3 Pints of Water. Roast the coffee to a light brown. 322 without the least trace of burning. Then grind it quiclcly, while it is hot, and infuse immediately in seven pints of good brandy. Add the zest of the orange, cut very fine, and let It remain thus for six days. Then place in a vessel in a "bain-marie," and distill till reduced to one-half. Dissolve the sugar and water over a slow fire, then let it cool, and mix it with the coffee mixture. Filter it, bottle and preserve in a cool, shady place. This "Liqueur de CafS" is a most wholesome and pleasant beverage, and is considered a peculiarly good antidote for dyspepsia, as it facili- tates digestion. >\.j. FRUIT GRANITS. " ' Tj Friilt Juice Granlts. Des Granlts. All manner of summer fruit bev- erages which have been given in thi^ chapter, or which will be given, may be served as "Granlts," by simply freezing them according to the re- cipes given above. A Granit is only halt frozen, the thought being to make it resemble snow-frosted Tvater; it must always be sufficiently liquid to admit of be- ing poured out into glasses and passed around to guests. The liq- uid may also be frozen in a, freezer, but the Creoles cling to the old- fashioned water jugs. Granlts are favorite drinks in France, the custom having been adopted from the Italians, who served them under the name of "Granitii." The Granits which are extempo- rized from fruits are the most de- lightful of all, but they must be used at once, or they will become in- sipid, when not made into Ratafias Or Liqueurs. The following recipe for Orange Granit will serve for al- most any kind of Fruit Granit. Orange Granit, Granit d'Orange. 12 Oranges. 1% Pints of Orange Juice. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Peel six oranges, removing every particle of pulp. Slice nicely and place in a dish, and sprinkle over them the granulated sugar. Set aside for several hours to make a syrup. Squeeze the juice from the remaining six oranges and add to the syrup formed from the other oranges, which must be carefully drained of all syrup. Add the water; mix well and strain. Then turn into a freezer and freeze till a light frosting ap- pears. Serve In small glasses. Straivberry Grantt. Granit de Fraises. 1 Quart of Strawberries. 1 Tablespoonful of Strawberry ExtracL 1^ Pounds of Sugar. 1 Pint of Water. Mash the berries and cover with the sugar, and set aside to form a syrup. Then drain and press through a sieve, extracting all the juice. Add the extract. Mix all with the wa- ter, and turn into a freezer and freeze till a light, snowy frosting appears. Then serve in long, thin glasses. Raspberry Granit. Granit de Framboises. 1 Quart of Raspberries. 1 Tablespoonful of Raspberry Bztract. 1 Pound of Sugar. Mash the berries and proceed In exactly the same manner as for Strawberry Granit. Cbampagrne Punch. Ponche au Vin de Champagne. 1 Quart Bottle of Champagne. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. 1 Quart of Rhine Wine. % of a Pint of Brandy. % of a Pint of Curacoa. 2 Quarts of Seltzer Water. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Large Piece of Ice. Take a large punch bowl and dis^ solve in it the above quantities of sugar, lemon juice, Rhine Wine, Champagne, Seltzer Water and Cura- Soa. Mix well, and set to cool and serve in small punch glasses. The above quantity will serve twenty* five persons. Reduce or increase the quantity of ingredients in propor- tion according to the number of persons to be served. The above punch may be served "Frappg," by putting.it into a large ice cream freezer and freezing soft. Champagne Punch ft la Creole. Ponche au Vin de Champagne 3. la Creole. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. 1 Quart Bottle of Champagne. 1_ Quart of Best Whte Wtne. '% of a Pint of Curacoa. 2 Quarts of Seltzer Water. % of a Grated Pineapple. % ot a Sliced Pineapple. 3 Dozen Strawberries. 1 Large Piece of Ice. Take a large punch bowl, and dis- solve in it one pound of sugar, one pint of lemon juice, one quart of White Wine, one quart bottle of Champagne, two quarts of Seltzer Water, one-eighth of a pint of Cura- Qoa, and one-half of a grated pine- apple. Mix well. Put in a large 323 piece of ice, decorate with straw- berries and sliced pineapple, let it cool, and serve in small cup glasses.' The above quantity will serve twen- ty-flve people. Cbampasne FrappS, Champagne Frappe is made by put- ting the above mixture into an ice cream freezer and freezing It soft. Claret Punch. Ponche au Vin. 1 Quart of tlie Best Claret. % Pint of Ice Water. % Cnp of Powdered White Sugar. 2 Lemons, Sliced Thin. 'Slice the lemons and let them stand for ten minutes with the su- gar. Add the water and wine. Mix well and serve in glasses with crushed ice or freeze as directed above. Claret Punch, Creole Style. Ponche au Vin a. la Creole. 2% Quarts of Claret. 1 Pound of Sugar. Vi Quarts of Seltzer or Appolinaris Water. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. 1 Large Piece of Ice. 2 Lemons, Sliced Very Thin. Slice the lemons very thin. Mix all the above ingredients together. Add the sliced lemons as a garnish, stir well, set to cool, and serve in small glass cups or punch glasses. The above quantity will serve twenty- five persons. Reduce or increase quantities in proportion to tlie num- ber to be served. Claret Punch may be trapped by putting into an ice cream freezer and freezins soft. Hot Claret Punch, Ponche au Vin Chaud. 2 Quarts of Claret. IVi Pounds of Sugar. 6 Oranges. 3 Lemons. % Ounce of Cinnamon (Whole Stick). Squeeze the juice from the or- anges and lemons. Take the peel- ing of the oranges and lemons and boil with one quart of water and the sugar and cinnamon. Strain, and then add the claret and lemon juice and orange juice; let all come to a boil again and serve hot. liOUisiana Punch. Ponche a, la Louisianaise.' 2 Quarts of White Burgundy Wine. 2 Quarts of Seltzer Water. 1 Pint of Brandy. 1 Pint of Good Old Cognac. 1 Pint of Curacoa. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. i Dozen Cherries. 2 Dozen Strawberries. 14 of a Sliced Pineapple. 2 Lemons. , Sliced Very Thin. VA Pounds of Sugar. 1 Large Piece of Ice. Mix the Selizer Water and the sugar, add the wine, brandy, Cura-' Soa and lemon Juice; stetn and wash' the strawberries and the cherries,' add, and decorate the punch with thin slices of lemon and pineapple. Set to cool and serve in small punch glasses. The punch may be frapped by putting in an ice cream freezer and freezing soft. Milk Punch. Ponche au Lait. A Glass of Good Rich Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Brandy or Whisky. A Small Quantity of Crushed Ice. Dissolve the whisky or brandy and sugar together, mix well, and pour over the milk. Add a small quan- tity of crushed ice and serve. Orange Punch, Jietr Orleans Style. Poncbe d'Oranges a. la Nouvelle Or- leans. , 6 Louisiana Oranges. 1 Glass of Rum. % Glass of Best Brandy. 2 Quarts of Boiling Water. 1 Pound of Loaf Sugar. 1 Small Glass of Cherry Bounce. 1 Large Piece of Ice. Mix the sugar and water, and the rUm and brandy. Add the juice of six oranges, and the grated peel of three, and let all infuse for one hour. Then set to cool. When ready to serve add one small glassful of Cherry Bounce. Serve in small glass cups. Rum Punch, Ponche au Rhum. 114 Pints of Best Jamaica Rum. li of a Pint of Brandy. 2 Quarts of Apollinaris or Seltzer Wlater. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. 1 Pint of ■White Wine. 2 Lemons, Sliced Thin. 1^ Pounds of Sugar. 1 Large Piece of Ice. Mix the sugar and water, add the liquors, stir well, add the lemon juice and the bits of sliced lemon; set to cool and serve in small punch glasses. This quantity will serve twenty-five persons. Reduce or in- crease according to the number to be served. Frapp6e by turning into an Ice cream freezer and freezing BOfti Stra^rberry Punch. Ponche aux Fraises. ,^ 1% Quarts of Best Champagne or Claret. 1 Quart of Strawberry Juice. 2 Quarts of Seltzer Water. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. 1 Pint of Pineapple Juice, 1% Pounds of Sugar. I Large Piece of Ice. 3 Dozen Fine, Ripe Strawberries. Dissolve the sugar and water and 324 add the liquor, using eitlier Claret or Champagne. Add the fruit juices and then the whole strawberries. Set to cool and serve in small punch glasses. Frapp§e by turning into a freezer and freezing soft. The above quantity will serve twenty-five per- sons. Reduce or increase quantity In proportion to guests. WTiite Wine Pnncli, Ponche au Sauternes. 2 Quarts of Best Sauternes. 1 Pint of Old French Cognac. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. 1 Pint of Pineapple Juice. 1 Quart of Seltzer Water. Vz Grated Pineapple. % of a Sliced Pineapple. 2 Dozen Cherries. 1 Lar^e Piece of Ice. Mix the sugar and water, add the liquors and the fruit juices and the grated and sliced fruit. Stir well, set to cool and serve in small glass cups. The above quantity will serve twenty-five persons. Reduce or in- crease the quantity of ingredients in proportion to the number of person-s to be served. This punch may be trapped by simply turning into an Ice cream freezer .and freezing soft. White Wine Punch, Creole Style. Ponche au Sauternes a la CrSoIe. 2% Quarts of Sauterne. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Lemon Juice. % Pint of Brandy. 1 Quart of Seltzer Watpf. % of a Grated Pineapple. % of a Sliced Pineapple. 2 Dozen Cherries. Sprigs of Fresh Young Mint. Take a. large punch bowl, and put one pound of sugar into it, with one pint of lemon juice, two and a half quarts of Sauterne (White Wine), half a pint of brandy, two quarts of Apollinaris or Seltzer, one-half of a grated pineapple. Decorate with sliced pineapple and whole cherries and sprigs of fresh young mint; put In a large piece of ice, and let it cool, and serve in small glass cups. Tea Punch. Ponche au The. 1 Quart of Strong Tea. French Brandy or Wine- or Rum to Taste. 6 Lemons. Vk, Pounds of Sugar. Squeeze the juice from the lemons and grate the zest. Add this to one quart of boiling tea, and add the su- gar. Dissolve well. Let it boil up three times, take off the fire, and add rum, brandy or wine to taste. It may be served hot, or bottled, and kept for future use, in which case it is served with crushed ice. CUPS. Ponches. Cups are a form of punch that are frequently used when a smaller quantity is desired or when it is wished to make a refreshing drink for delicate members of the house- hold. One quart cup will serve six persons. A pint cup will serve three. The Cup is served in a. very delicate, thin tumbler. Burgundy Cup. Ponche au Vin de Bourgogne. 1 Pint of Good Old Burgundy. 1 Sliced Lemon. 1 Orange. A Dash of Old French Cognac. % Pint of Seltzer Water. 1 Large Piece of Ice. Vi Cup of Sugar. Dissolve the sugar and lemon and orange juice and add the liquors and water. Decorate with the sliced lemon and sprigs of green mint. CInret Cup. Ponche au Vin. 1 Pint of Good Claret. 1 Pony of Curacoa. 1 Orange, Sliced. A' pash of French Cognac. Vi Cup of Loaf Sugar. 1 Large Piece of Ice. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Dissolve the sugar and lemon juice. Add the Claret, Curagoa, Brandy and sliced orange and lemon juice. Put to cool. . When ready to serve pour into a thin, small tum- bler and decorate the top with a sprig of fresh green mint. This "Claret Cup" is also made by preparing one quart of "Orange- ade" (see recipe), and adding one quart of Claret. Freeze as directed, or serve with crushed ice, having the glasses half full of the pounded ice. Champagne Cup. Ponche au Vin de Champagne. 1 Pint of Champagne. 1 Lemon, Sliced. 1 Sliced Orange. A Dash of Old French Cognac. 'A Pint of Seltzer Water. A Dash of Curacoa. 1 Large Piece of Ice. IMix the sugar and water; add the liqueurs, and the sliced orange and lemon, and the ice. Stir well and let cool. Serve in gmall, thin tum- blers, and decorate with a piece of fresh green mint on top. 325 Moselle Cud. Ponohe au Vin de Moselle. 1 Pint of Moselle Wine. 1 Sliced Lemon. 1 Sliced Oranse. A Dash of Good Brandy. A Dash of Maraschino. Vi Pint of .Seltzer Water. ^ The Juice of 1 Lemon. ^ of a Grated Pineapple. 1 Larse Piece of Ice. ^ % Tablespoonful of Sugar. Mix the sugar and water, add the wine and the liqueurs, and the juice of the lemon and sliced orange and lemon, and the grated pineapple. Stir well. Let cool, and serve in small thin tumblers. Decorate the top with sprigs of fresh green mint. Military Cnp. Ponche Militaire. 1 Bottle of Claret. 2 Quarts of Water. 1 Bottle of Seltzer '^fater. The Juice and Rind of 3 Lemons. 1 Cordial Glass of Benedictine. Vi Pound of Sugar. 1 Cordial Glass of Cherry Bounce. A Few strawberries or French Cherries. Take one bottle of claret and pour into a punch bowl with two quarts of water. Add one bottle of Seltzer water and a half pound of sugar and the juice and rind of three lemons. Stir all well and add a dash of old French Cognac, a cordial glass of Benedictine and of Cherry Bounce, and put sufficient ice in the bowl to make the Punch very cold. Serve with a few Strawberries or French Cherries in each glass and place a sprig of fresh young mint on top. White Wine Cup. Ponche au Sauternes. 1 Pint of Best Sauterne. % of a Sliced Lemon. % of a Sliced , Orange.' , A Dash of Old French Cosnac. A Dash of Maraschino. 1 Cup of Pineapple Juice. 1 Large Piece of Ice. li Pint of Seltzer Water. Vi Cup of Sugar. Dissolve the sugar and the Seltzer water, add the wine and fruit juices and liquor. Add the cherries and sliced lemon and orange. Stir well. Let cool and serve in small, thin tumblers. Decorate the tops with sprigs of fresh green mint, with two or three cherries laid on top. Hot W^hlsky Punc>h. Ponche au Whisky Chaud. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Best Old Bourbon. 3 Lumps of Loaf Sugar. ^ of a Lemon. Hot Water to Pill One Tumbler. Squeeze the juice from a quarter of a lemon and dissolve with the sugar. Add the whisky and let all dissolve well. Fill with hot water; stir well, and add a little grated nutmeg, it desired, and serve hot. Brandy Stevr. Cognac Chaud k la Creole. 1 Glass of Fine Old French Cognac. 1 Tablespoonful of the Best Butter. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. Vi Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon and Allspice. Have a nice porcelain-lined sauce- pan. Melt the butter and sugar over a clear Are, blending well, and add- ing almost immediately tife ground cloves, cinnamon and allspice. Let it stew slowly and add the brandy or good old Bourbon or Rye whisky very carefully, so that it will not take fire. Stir well, and let it bub- ble up once or twice, and then take off the Are and add the grated nut- meg. This is a very delicate stew, and is offered to the sick and those suf- fering from severe cold. It is held as an infallible cure for a cold- in twenty-four hours. Hot Stews of Whisky, Rum, Gin, Claret, Sherry, Madeira or Port Wine may also be prepared according to the above ancient formula. Hot Spiced Port. "Vin d'Oporto Chaud a la Crgole. 1 Lump of Sugar. 2 Cloves. 3 Allsplce- 2 Tablespoonfuls of Old Port Wine. A Dash of Grated Nutmeg. A Bit of Lemon Peel. Take a small mixing glass and dissolve the sugar in a little warm water. Add the Allspice and Cloves, ground well. Add the Port Wine. Fill with hot water and add a bit of lemon peel, fetir well. Grate a little nutmeg on top and serve very hot. Hot Spibed Sherry, Madeira, Bran- dy, Whisky, Rum or Claret may be prepared according to the above re- cipe. Wine Cobblers. 1 Wineglassful of Sherry or Any Other Wine. A Small Piece of Lemon Peel. 1 Tablespoonful of Sugar or Syrup. Cobblers may be made with Port, Sherry, Rhine, Moselle, Catawba or Muscadine Wine or Vin Muscat. Take a glass, put in a tablespoonful of sugar or syrup, a small piece of cut lemon peel, one wineglass of Sherry or any other of the above wines, and then fill the glass with crushed ice. Stir well. Decorate the mix- ture with sprigs of fresh mint or strawberries or sliced pineapple, and serve. 326 Sherry Cobbler. 1 Quart of Lemonade. % Bottle o( Sherry or any Other Wine. Small Bltb of Lemon Peel. To one quart of lemonade add half a bottle of Sherry and proceed to freeze as directed above, or hand around in glasses' half full of crushed ice. Add a little lemon peel. Slnsaree, Hot or Cold. gangaree. Chaud ou Froid. 1 Cup of Claret. 1 Cup' of Boiling Water. 6 Whole Cloves. 3 Tablespoonfuls of 3ugar. , 12 Whole Allspice. 2 Inches of Stick Cinnamon. Grated Nutmeg to Taste. Boil the water and spices for fif- teen minutes, till the water is thor- oughly, flavored with the spices. Then remove from the fire and dis- solve the sugar in it. Put the Claret Into a pitcher. Strain the water and Sugar into it. Flavor with the nut- meg, and add more sugar, if neces- sary, to taste. Serve hot immedi- ately. This is a winter drink. It is served cold in summer simply by mixing' the wine and water and su- gar and adding the juice of a lemon or orange, a little lemon peel and grated nutmeg. Mint Jnlep & la CrSoIe. i Large Cut Glass Pilled With Water. - 3 Lumps of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Good Brandy or WHiIsky. The Juice of Half a Lemon. A Bit of Lemon or Orange Peel. 6 Sprigs of Fresh Young Mint. A Few Eipe Strawberries. . Take one large cut glass, half fill with water, add six sprigs of fresh mint, three lumps of sugar. Stir well, till the sugar is absorbed. Add a tablespoonful of good brandy or whisky, and stir well. Add a little lemon and orange peel, and the Juice of half a lemon; If desired. Fill the glass with crushed ice, and decorate on top with sprigs of mint. Place a few ripe strawberries on top of tho mint, " sprinkle lightly with crushed sugar, and serve. This julep was a famous offering at the ancient plantation homes of Louisiana. Sliced orange or sliced pineapple is fre- quently added. EGG-NOG. 10 Fine, Fresh oreole Eggs. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Pound of White Granulated Sugar. 1 Gill of Fine French Cognac. 1 Grated Nutmeg. Beat the yolks to a cream, add the sugar, and beat to a cream. Blend all thoroughly, beating till very, very light. Now pour over the boil- ing milk, stirring well. 'When thor- oughly blended add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and the liquor, and serve hot. This egg-nog is also served cold by the Creoles at New Tear's receptions. At the fa- mous Christmas and New Tear Re- veillons it is served hot. The liquor may or may not be added, according to taste. EsB ond Wine. Oeuf au "Vin. 1 Egg. 1 ^Tablespoonful of Sherry or Port Wine. 1 Tablespoonful or Teaspoonful of Sugar. Beat the. yolk of the egg to a cream in a tumbler, and add the su- gar, and beat till very light. Then add the Sherry or Port, according to ■ taste. Beat the whites to a stid froth, and then beat it into the yoik and wine. Add a little grated nut- meg. This is excellent for invalids, and is offered to them by the Creoles as a morning or evening tonic. FRAPPfiES. Any Liqueur or Beverage -may be served "au Frapp6e" by filling a glass with crushed ice, ,pouring the beverage over and serving very cold, in almost a freezing state. Absinthe FrappSe. A Small Glass Filled With Finely-Crushed Ice and Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Absinthe. A Dash of Anisette. Mix the Absinthe and Anisette to- gether, strain into small, thin glasses, -with crushed ice and water; let the ■ mixture get very cold and serve immediately. The Absinthe may be served without the Anisette. Some, add the white of an egg. But this is according to taste. The above is the recipe that used to be used in old Creole days at the famous old Absinthe House, in Bour- bon Street. Creme de Menthe FrappCe. , A Small Sherry Glass Filled With Crushed Ice. Two Tablespoonfuls of Creme de Menthe J (White or Green.) Fill a glass with finely-crushed ice pour over the CrSme de Menthe, and serve very cold. Crfime de Noyau FrappCe. 1 Claret Glass Filled With Crushed Ice. 2f Tablespoonfuls of Creme de Noyaii: Put two tablespoonfuls of Cr6me de Noyau in a glass of finely-crushed i,ce and Seltzer and serve at almost freezing point. 327 Cr6me de Vlolette, CrSme de Cacoa, Cr6me de Curagoa may all be served in the same manner. Coffee FrappSe, Cafe Frapp§. S Tablespoonfuls of Coftee (Black and Very Strona:.) A Dash of Old French Cognac. 2 Teaspoonfnls of Sugar. Take a large glass, mix the above Ingredients together, fill with finely- crushed ice, and pour into a small Burgundy glass, and serve very cold. Pousse CafS. 1 Teaspoonful of Anisette. 1 Teaspoonful of Curacoa. 1 Teaspoonful of Benedictine or Chartreuse. 1 Teaspoonful of Good Old Bourbon or Cognac. Mix all the above Ingredients in a small glass, and serve cold, or otherwise, as preferred. A Pousse Caf§ is also made by putting a teaspoonful of Chartreuse, Benedictine or old Cognac or Bour- l)on into the after-dinner cup of CafS Noir. Vermouth FrappC. 1 Teaspoonful of French Vermouth. 1 Dash of Orange Bitters. A Dash of Syrup. A Bit of Lemon Peel. Finely Crushed Ice. Mix all the above ingredients well together, stir w^ell and strain into a small Punch glass, and serve very cold. Appetizer, A Dash of Absinthe. 1 Teaspoonful of Vermouth. 1 Dash of Pepsin. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Seltzer Water. Finely Crushed Ice. Fill a glass with finely-crushed ice, and add the above ingredients; shake well together, pour into a small, del- icately thin tumbler, and serve cold. Old-Fasliloned Creole Cocktails. 1 Tablespoonful of Good Old Bourbon, Cognac, Gin, Sherry or Vermouth. 2 Lumps of Loaf Sugar. A Piece of Ice About the Size of an Egg. A Bit of Lemon Peel. The Juice of 1 Orange. 1 Tablespoonful of Ijemon Juice. Take a large glass, put the lump sugar in, and mix with about three tablespoonfuls of Seltzer, dissolving the sugar well. Now add the lemon peel and the juices of the orange and lemon. Add one tablespoonful of good old Bourbon or Sherry or any of the above-mentioned liqueurs, ac- cording to the cocktail desired. Stir well, and serve with delicate sprigs of freshly-gathered mint on top. Some add a few cherries; these tend to Improve the flavor. CORDIALS AND DOMESTIC WINES. Liqueurs de M6nage. Cordials are made by distilling brandy, rum, alcohol, etc., with aro- matic substances, and then diluting with water and sweetening with su- gar or syrup. Cordials should always be soft, m.ellow, light and transparent. Only the best white clarified loaf sugar, the best filtered river water, and the best Cognac or Brandy or al- cohol should be used in making them. The sugar should always be boiled to a syrup. The cordials should be filtered. The spirits should always be rectified in advance. It is quite possible to purchase the rectified spirits, and a great deal of trouble is saved to thpse who do not understand home methods of distillation. ANISETTE. 10 Drops of Oil of Aniseed. 3 Pints of Alcohol. 2 Pounds of the Finest White Clarified Loaf Suffar. 1% Pints of Water. Make a syrup >with the water and sugar, and clarify. (See recipe.) When cold, add the aniseed oil, which has been well-dissolved in the al- cohol. Mix all well, filter and bot- tle tightly. Anisette de Bordeaux. 10 Ounces of Green Aniseed. 4 Ounces of Star Aniseed. 1 Ounce of Coriander. 2 Ounces of Hyson Tea. , 1 Ounce of Fennel. 3% Gallons of Alcohol. ' 10 Pounds of Sugar. 7 Pints of Water. The above ingredients may be pur- chased from first-class druggists and grocers. Take the aniseed, corian- der, fennel. Hyson tea, and pound well. Then macerate or steep for fifteen days in three and a half gal- lons of the finest rectified alcohol. After this distill in a "bain-marie," or water bath, according to direc- tions already given. Then make a syrup with the ten pounds of sugar and seven pints of water. Mix well with the aniseed liquor and filter. Then bottle and keep in a cool, shady place. Several large bottles of Ani- sette Will be the result of the above quantities after distillation. The quantities may be reduced or In- creased in proportion to the amount It Is desired to make. 328 Blackberry Cordial, Llaueur de Mures. 2 Quarts of Blackberry Juice. 2 Pounds of Sugar. Vi Ounce of Ground Cloves. < ^ Ounce of Allspice. 1 Pint of the Best French Brandy. Boil eight quarts of blackberries in a porcelain-lined pot till the juice is all extracted. Then take o£E the flre and press out all the juice through a flannel bag. This quantity will make about two quarts. Add the su- gar, allowing one glass of sugar al- ways to two glasses of blackberries, if you wish to make larger quan- tities than the above measurements. Add the cloves and the allspice, and set on the flre, and let it come to a good boil. Let it boil up several times. Then take off, strain and add the brandy. Bottle while hot. Cork well and seal, and set away in a cool place, to be used after two months. The longer this excellent cordial is kept, the better it will be. It is very grateful to the sick, and can be supported by the most deli- cate stomachs. Cltronelle. The Zest of 30 Lemots. The Zest of 4 Oranges. 3% Quaits of Alcolnd. 2^ Pounds of Sugar. % Drachm Each of Cloves and Nutmeg. Grate the zests of the lemons and oranges, and grate the nutmeg and grind the cloves. Mix well. Then pour over the alcohol, and steep for fifteen days. Distill in a "bain-ma- rie," or water bath, and add the syrup made with two and a half pounds of sugar and one quart of water. Bottle and keep in a cool, shady place. Cnraeoa. The Zest of 1 Dozen Fine liOuislana Oranges. 3 Fine Lemons. 3 Quarts of Fine Old French Cognac. 3% Pounds of Sugar. l' Quart of 'Water. Grate the zests of the fruit as carefully as possible, so as to pre- serve the fine aromatic oils, and without touching the white pulp. Then put the zests in a large glass bottle or vessel that can be closed tightly, and pour over the brandy. Shake well, and let it stand for fif- teen days, each day shaking the bot- tle well, to agitate the juices. Make a syrup with the sugar and water, first beating Into the sugar the whites of two eggs, to make the in- fusion very clear. Then mix with the water and strain. Add it to the syrup of brandy and lemons, bottle and cork well. Shake the bottles and let them stand for fifteen days longer, agitating each day. At the end of this time filter the liquor and bottle tightly for use. A more simple Curagoa, but not so excellent, is made by taking the zest of one dozen oranges, three-quarters of a drachm of cinnamon and one- quarter of a drachm of mace. Blend these well together, and steep in three pints of alcohol for fifteen days. Then distill in a water bath, and add a syrup made of two and a quarter pounds of sugar and three- fourths of a quart of water. Mix well, color lightly with Caramel, and bottle for use. FRUIT CORDIALS, Liqueurs de Fruit. 2 Quarts of Juice. 2 Pounds of Sugar. ii Ounce of Ground Cloves, Va. Ounce of Allspice. 1 Pint of the Best French Brandy. Strawberry Cordial, Raspberry Cor- dial, Cherry and Grape Cordial, etc., are made in the same manner as Blackberry Cordial. (See recipe.) Kununel. 1 Quart of the Best Rectified Alcohol, 30 Drops of Kummel Oil. 1 Quart of Boflln? Water. 2 Pounds of the Finest White Loaf Sugar. Pour the boiling water over the sugar and stir till dissolved. Bring to a boil, and let it continue boiling from fifteen to twenty minutes. Strain, and when luke warm, add the oil and the alcohol. Bottle and keep for at least two months before using. The oil is obtained from drug- gists. Nectar. Nfictar. 4 Ounces of White Honey. 2 Ounces of Coriander. 6 Ounces of Fine White Pulverized SngaiL 3 Quarts of Water. 1 Ounce of the Fresh Zest of Lemon. 1 Ounce of Cloves. X Ounce of Benzoine. 1 Ounce of Storax Calamlte. Vi Drachm of Tincture of Vanilla. 4 Ounces of Orange Flower Water. 5 Quarts of Highly Eeetifled Spirits. Pound to a powder all the ingred- ients which require it, mix with the honey, benzoin, etc., pour over the alcohol, and steep for fifteen days. Then distill the liquor till it is reduced to four quarts, using a water bath, or bain-marie, for the distillation. Make a syrup of six pounds of fine white sugar, add the Vanilla, color a deep red with Coch- ineal, and add to the liquor. Blend and shake well, bottle and keep In a cool place. 329 Farfnlt Amour. 2 Ounces of Zest of Liemons. 4 Ounces of > Zest of Liines. 2 f)rachma of Cloves, 3 Sprigs of Rosemary Leaves. A Handful of Orange Blossoms. Z^i, Gallons of Alcohol. 10 Pounds of Susar. & Quarts of Water. Grate the zests of the lemons and limes carefully, without touching the white inner pulp. Bruise the rose- mary leaves and orange blossoms and steep in the alcohol fifteen days. Then make a syrup with the sugar and water, add the liqueur, distill and filter, color lightly with Cochi- neal, and bottle for use. Perslcot. 10 Ounces of Bitter Almonds. 1 Ounce of Cinnamon. 2',i Gallons of Alcohol or Fine Brandy. 6 Pounds of Susar. 3 Quarts of Water. Peel the almonds and pound and mix with the cinnamon, and steep for fifteen days in the alcohol. Then distill in a water bath, add the syrup, color with Cochineal or Cara- mel, and bottle for use. Sassafras Mc^ad. Boisson au Sassafran. 4 Bunches of Sassafras Itoota. 1V4 Pints of Honey. 3% Pints of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Tablespoonful of Cream of Tartar. % Teaspoonful of Carbonate of Soda. This is a noted Creole summer drink, and is pref>ared as follows: Take the roots of sassafras, attd make about two quarts of Sassafras Tea. Strain well. Set to boil again, and when it boils add one and one- half pints of honey, and three and one-half pints of Louisiana Syrup or Molasses. Add a tablespoonful of Cream of Tartar. Stir well and set to cool. When cool strain it. Take about a dozen clean bottles and fill with the mixture. Cork very tight, and put in a cool place. In a day it will be ready for use. When serv- ing this Mead, take a glass and fill half full with ice water. Add a ta- blespoonful of the Mead and stir in a half teaspoonful of Carbonate of Soda. ■ It will immediately foam up. Drink while effervescing. This is a cheap, pleasant and wholesome sum- mer beverage in our clime. The above recipe has been in use in Cre- ole homes for generations. Blacfcberry Wine. Vin de Mflres. 4 Quarts of Currant Juice. 1 1-3 Quarts of Cold Water. 3 Pounds of Grdiulated Sugar. Mix all the above ingredients well together, and then let them stand for twenty-four hours, having, of course, obtained the currant juice by cleanly picking, washing and drying and pressiijg the berries. Then let it stand for two days. After this skim well, and set in a cool place to ferment slowly for at least six days. At the end of this time remove any froth that has collected, and add a half teacupful of the best French Brandy, ^nd close tightly. In two days, when it is well-settled, draw off, without disturbing the sediment, and bottle tightly and seal. This wine improves with age. Always have the bottles very clean and dry before bpttling, and if larger pro- portions are used and a cask is ne- cessary, remember that an old cask Is more desirable than a new one. on account of the taste of the wood, and that the cask must be perfectly fresh and sweet-smelling, or the wine will sour. Currant Wine. Vin de Groseiiles. 4 Quarts of Currant .Tuice. 1 1-3 Quarts of Cold Water. 3 pounds of Granulated Sugar. Prepare in exactly the same man- ner as. Blackberry Wine. Elderberry Wine. Vip de Fleurs de Sureau. 1 Peck of Elderberries. 2% Gallons of Water. Vi Pound of Sugar. H Pint of Hop Yeast. Bruise the Elderberries, and then dilute w(th the water and boil for ten rtiin^tes. Then strain well and press out the juice from the berries. Measure the whole, and add the su- gar, and while half warm the yeast. Let the wftole ferment for ten days. Then cork ^^ell. After three months ,draw off the wine and bottle for use. ' In making large quantities of this wine, which is used by the Creoles for many medicinal purposes, allow four pecks of elderberries to every ten gallons of water, and to every quart three-qVlp-rters of a pound of sugar and a l^^jlf pint of yeast. nfuscaifllne W^Inc. Vin de Muscades. 4 Quarts of Muscadine Juice. 1 1-3 Quarts of Cold Water. 3 Pounds of granulated Suffar. Prepare in exaQtly the same man- ner as Blackberry Wine. Louisiana O'ange Wine. Vin d'Oranges ^e la Louisiane. 3 Pounds 6f Sugar to Jlver.v Gallon of juice. 1-3 of a Gallon of Water. The White of 1 Egg. 1 Calie of ComiJ^'essed Yeast. Take fine Louisiana oranes, and wash them well. Tl^en dry with a 330 cloth, and peel off the yellow outer rind very, very thin, and strain all the juice throug-h a haip sieve, three pounds of granulated sugar, the white and shell of one egg, to clarify, and one-third of a gallon of water. Put the sugar, the crushed eggshell and white of the egg, beat- en to a froth, in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and add the water, and boil to a syrup, stirring constantly to prevent the egg from hardening. Let the syrup boil till it looks clear when seen through the froth of the egg, ■which will rise to the surface. Then strain . the syrup, and pour it over the graced orange zest, and let It stand for tweiity-four hours. Then add the orange juice, and strain, and put it into a cask with a small cake of compressed yeast, allowing half a cake to five gallons of wine. Close tightly, but leave the bung out of the cask until the wine ceases to ferment. As long as fermentation is progressing there will be a hiss- ing sound. When this ceases the fermentation has ceased. Then add a glass of good brandy for each gal- lon of wine, close the cask, drive in the bung, and let the wine stand for at least nine months. Then bottle it, and about four months after it has been bottled it will be ready for use. This is an excellent Louisiana wine, and can be made with litttle expense. Scuppernon^ Wine. Vin de Muscades. ■ " 4 Quarts of Scuppernong Jnlce. 1 1-3 uarts of Cold Water. 3 Pounds of Granulated Suzar. P/fepare in exactly the same man- ner as Blackberry Wine. (See re- cipe.) Strawberry Wine. Vin de Praises. 4 Quarts of Strawberry Juice. . 1 L-3 Quarts of Cold Water. 3 Founds of Granulated )Sugar. Follow in every respect the re- cipe given for Blackberry Wine.) ROOT BBBR. BiSre Creole. H Pint of Boot Beer Extract (Hire's Solution). 10 Pounds of Suzar. 10 Gallons of Lukewarm, Filtered Mississippi Elver Water. 1 Pint ot Yeast, or IH Cakes of Compressed Yeast. Dissolve the sugar thoroughly in the water, and then add the Root Beer Extract and the yeast. If you Use the cake yeast, dissolve It first In a little water, so that it will mix well with the beer. Stir until thor- oughly mixed, and then bottle in strong bottles or in jugs, corking and tying the corks very securely, so that the gas may not escape from the solution. Then set the beer, away in a place of even temperature. It will be r^ady for use in twenty-four hours after bottling, or even ten, but win be far more effervescing if allowed to stand three or four days. Always place the bottle on ice or in a very cool place just before open- ing it, if you wish it to be cool, sparkling and delicious. SFRVCEl BEIBR. Bi&re de Sapin. Take sprigs of spruce and boil until you have an ounce of strong essence. Take one ounce of hops and a spoonful of ginger, and put them Into a gallon of water. When well- boiled, strain the mixture, and add a pint of Louisiana Molasses or a pound of "brown "sugar, and tlien add the extract of Spruce. When cool add a teacupful of yeast (home- made), and put all into a clean, tight cask, and let it ferment for twenty- four hours or two days. Then bot- tle for use. Essence of Spruce may be purchased and used instead of the sprtgs of spruce, or the Spruce Gum may be boiled. The Creoles always use the sprigs, or spruce bark rich with gum. ■GINGBR BBBR. BiSre de Gingembre. 2 Ounces of Bruised. Ginger Root, 2 Ounces of Cream of Tartar, 4 Quarts ot Boillns Water. Tlie Juice and Rind of 1 Lemon. IH Pounds of Granulated Susar. 1 Tablespoonful of Yeast, or ^ of a Caks. Bruise and pound the ginger well, and put it into a bowl with the boil- ing water. Add the juice of a lemon and the well-grated zest. Add the Cream of Tartar and the sugar, mix- ing and stirring constantly. When it is lukewarm add the yeast, dis- solved in a little water. Mix well and cover tightly, and let it stand for six hours. Then strain it and put it into bottles with patent tops and keep In a cool place. It effer- vesces rapidly if not kept most se- curely corked. DOMESTIC BEVERAGEIS. Boissons de M6nage. Under the heading of "Domestic Beverages" might properly be classed Coffee, Tea, Chocolate and Cocoa, daily drinks in almost every Creole household. TEA. Du Th6. Tea has a stimulating and grate- ful effect when not taken In ex- cess, and promotes digestion. The Creoles use most exclusively 331 the black and green tea mixed, pre- ferring the flavor always of the Hyson, Oolong-, Bohea, Gunpowder or Heno. Like Coffee, Tea should never be boiled. It should always be made from fresh boiling water, and never in any but an_ earthen or agate teapot. Tea made in earthen tea urns requires longer to draw than if made in bright metal pots. Tea should never be suffered to stand long, as it acquires an un- pleasant taste and loses it delight- ful aroma and fragrance. The spout of the teapot should always be closed by a cover, secured by a chain, to prevent the escape of t^e aroma, and the urn itselj shouia ,. be closed at the top with a tightly- fitting cover. To make good tea, first see that the teapot is perfectly clean. Then pour boiling water into it, and let It stand for five minutes, so that the metal or earthen urn may be- co'me thoroughly heated. Then throw ont this water, and drain the urn well. Allow a teaspoonful of tea for each cup of boiling water, or, if you desire stronger tea, al- low two teaspoonfuls. Put this tea Into the hot pot, and pour over one pint of boiling water, if you wish to make a quart, or, according to the quantity desired, one-half a cup of water to each cup. Let this so- lution draw for five minutes in front, not on top, the stove or range, as tea that has the least indication of boil- ing is condemned by the best ethics of Creole Cookery. Aiter five min- utes add the other pint of water, or Walter in proportion to the number of cups desired, allowing a half cup more for each person. Serve at once, very hot. In serving the tea, put the cream or milk or sugar into the cups. The milk should be cold and unboiled, as the boiled milk destroys the flav- or of the tea. Cream is far pref- erable to milk. Have the tea very hot, and pour over tne milk, allow- ing two teaspoonfuls or four of milk to each person, or suiting individual tastes. Always have a pitcher of very hot water at hand when about to serve tho tea. Pour a little into each cup to warm it, and then empty before putting in the milk and tea. Pour the tea through a strainer, so as to avoid the possibility of leaves or dregs passing into the cup. The tea leaves that have been in- fused in an earthen teapot may be used again; as all the aroma has not been extracted by the first infusion. The tea brewed in a metal pot must never be used a second time, as by standing it absorbs the acid of the tin. Indeed, metal teapots are con- demned by the best Creole house- keepers. CHOCOLATE. Du Chocolat. 1 Cake of Grated French or German Chocolate. 1 Quart of New Milk. Set the milk to boil; in the mean- ' time mix the grated chocolate with a little hot water, to -blend thar- oughly. Stir this in the milk as it begins to simmer, and let it boil up once, and serve hot, each one sweet- ening to taste, or allow two table- spoonfuls of sugar to the entire mi-x- ture. Serve hot, with or without Whipped Cream. It is a mistake to allow chocolate to boil a long time. The basis, of Chocolate is sugar and cocoa, and the first gains nothing by boiling, and the second loses its fragrant perfume by evaporation. In economical . households, one- half a cup of water is sometimes al- lowed to three-quarters of a cup of milk in making Chocolate. COCOA. Du Cacao. 1 Quart of Milk. i Xablessoonfuls of Cocoa. Set the milk to boil in a farina boiler, and moisten the Cocoa with a little milk, and pour it into the milk just as it begins to simmer, stirring all the while. Let it boil up once, and serve hot, with or without Whipped Cream. CHAPTER XLIV. JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES. Des Confitures, des Marmalades et des Conserves. In making jellies, marmalades or preserves, use only perfectly sound arid fresh fruit. Do not cook them long" enough to destroy their natu- ral flavor, and seal them while boil- ing hot in airtight jars, and be care- ful to All these even to overflowing, so as to preclude the possibility of the least air entering the bottle. Then seal quickly. Heat the jars before filling, and use a wide- mouthed funnel during the process of filling. The large-mouthed jars that now come with porcelain-lined glass tops are the best. When once the jars are filled, immediately screw on the tops, and put them in a dry, warm pl9.ce, where there is not the least possibility of the air striking them. After twenty-four hours turn the tops on still more tightly, so as to be sure to exclude ^the entrance of all air, and set them a"way in a cool, dark storeroom or closet. The room must not be cold. After six days examine the jars carefully. It there is not the least sign of any air bubbles on the surface, and the liq- uid seems to have settled perfectly, the fruit is keeping properly. If, on the contrary, there is the least sign of an air bubble, the fruit is begin- ning to ferment, and if the bottle is not opened immediately, it will burst shortly. Take out the fruit, recook it, and prepare the jars again, and return the fruit to them, taking ex- tra precautions to prevent the en- trance of any particle of air. In preserving large fruits, always throw them into cold water as soon as they have been pared. Then have ready a pot of clear, boiling syrup and proceed as directed below. Use all surplus juices that exude from berries to make jellies. Never make preserves on a damp, rainy day, and never use fruits that are overripe, or that have been picked in wet weather. They will sour. Always have the jars exposed sev- eral days in the air in a dry place, so that they may be perfectly dry. In all cases the jars must be en- tirely full, so as to leave no room for air, and must be sealed as hot as possible. Set the jar in warm water before filling, and let them gradually heat before introducing the hot preserves else they will crack. Let all bubbles rise to the top, Vnd if you see any in the lower part of the jar, insert a silver fork, which will cause them to rush to the top. Then have ready a strong piece of muslin, large enough to tie over the mouths, and with a spoon spread over a thick coat \>f cement made of one pound of rosin and two ounces of mutton suet, well-mixed and taelted. Take up the cover quickly, Jilace it on .the jar, with the cement side downward, and press it down blosely over the sides. Tie it down with twine, and finish with a good coat of cement over the whole. Set the jars in a- large pan of hot water, to cool gradually, on no account at- tempting to cool them out of the water or they will crack. When they are cold, the tops will be found sunken in. This may be taken as an evidence that all the air has been excluded most effectually. The reg- ular fruit jars, made for preserving do not require any muslin, as the lids are tight-fltting. But pour the cement around the groove in the top, so as to seal tightly. If tin cans are used, it will be ne- cessary to have a man ready at hand to solder up the can as soon as full. If open jars are used, cover first with brandied paper, and then with white paper, fastened on with a thick flour paste. Label and set the jars a"n^ay. These directions for sealing will hold in making all preserves, mar- malades and jellies. Fruit put up in this manner will rarely spoil. The one great thing to be remembered Is to expel all air. Apple Jelly. Gel6e de Pomnies. 1 Pound of Sugar to Every Pint of Juice. Take pippins or other tart apples, pare them and cut into quarters, put 333 Into a preserving- kettle, cover with water, and add the grated rind of a lemon, and let them tioil to a mar- malade. Then strain. the juice, with- out squeezing, through a clean Jelly bag made of flannel, and for every pint of juice add one pound of fine sugar. If the apples are not very tart, add the juice also. Apricot Jelly. Gel^e d'Abrioots. To Every Pint of Fruit Juice 1 Pound of Suirar. Choose apricots that are just ripe, and no more. Pare and cut in two, and take out the stones. Boil them in water sufficient to cover well, strain through a hair sieve, and pour the decoction into earthen dishes. To every pint of liquid add a pound of sugar. Set on the fire, let it boil twenty minutes, skimming while on the fire. Pour immediately into cups glasses or preserve jars, and proceed to seal as directed above. This jelly has a most exquisite fiavor if the grated rind of an orange is added. To make apricot juice, after press- ing out the juice, put Into glass bottles, and add one pound of pow- dered sugar to every pound of juice, and a little cinnamon. Shake the bottle well, until the sugar is melted. Let it stand eight days. Then filter the juice, pour it into bottles, fasten securely, and keep in a cool place.- Cherry juice and all fruit juices are prepared in the same manner. Blsckberry Jelly. GelSe de MQres. 1 Pound of Strawberries. 1 Pound of Sugar. To every pound of strawberries al- low a ,half pound of sugar. Put the berries in a porcelain-lined kettle, and cover them with the sugar and let them stand for two hours. Then set over a moderate fire and bring the mixture to the boiling point. Skim while boiling; pour immed- iately into cups and glasses, and cover tightly and place in a cool, dry place. For Strawberry and Blackberry Jelly combined, allow equal parts of the fruits and proceed as above. Blu<> "Itun and Damson Jelly. Gel6e de Prunes. 1 Pound of Fruit. % of a Pound of Sugar. Stone the fruit, whether damsons or plums, and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every potind of fruit. Proceed in exactly the aame manner as for Blackberry Jelly. Calf's Foot Jelly. GelSe de Pieds de Veau. See recipe under chapter on Comr potes. Clierry Jelly. GelSe de Cerises. 1 Pound of Cherries. % Pound of Sugar. Stone the cherries and allow haif a pound of sugar to every pound of cherries if the cherries are ripe and sour, and a quarter of a pound otherwise". Set over the fire until the heat causes the juice to flov freely, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Strawberry or Blackberry Jelly. ' Currant Jelly. I Gelfie de Groseilles. To Every Pint of Juice 1 Pound of Sugar. Take currants that are fully ripe; clean, pick, wash and boil. To every pint of juice add one pound of fine white sugar. Let it boil for twenty minutes, always skimming it while on the fire. Do. not let it remain longer than twenty minutes, or it will grow dark. Pour immediately into cups. Some boil the currants without the sugar, and then, for every pint of juice, after taking off the fire, they add the sugar in the proportions given, stirring briskly till all is ab- sorbed and dissolved; then the jars are filled as quickly as possible, for the preparation jellies at once. Jellies made in this way are of a much lighter color than When the sugar is boiled into them. Currant anil Raspberry Jelly. Gelfie de Groseilles FramboisSe. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Fruit Juice. Take equal parts of currants and raspberries and strain the juice, and -proceed as above, allowing one pound of sugar to every pint of berry juice. To every quart of large red rasp- berries allow a half pint of currant juice; place in a kettle, add the .su- gar and bring to a boil, and proceed as directed above. Lemon Jelly. Gel6e de Citron. ■ 4 Lemons. % Can of Gelatine. 1 Quart of Water. Grate three or four lemons into a pound of refined sugar, and press out the juice. Then boil one-half a can of Gelatine — (see Calf's Foot Jelly) — in one quart of water, and, when reduced to one-half the quan- tity, add the juice and sugar; set all to boil on a very hot coal fire. 3^4 and then pour immediately into a glass or porcelain dish; fill the glasses and set in a cool place. Orange Jelly. GelSe de Citron. 6 Oraii£eB. a Can of Gelatinie, 1 Quart of Water. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as for Lemon Jelly. Orange Jelly, Creole Style. Gelfee a, rOrange a la Creole. 6 Louisiana Oran^^s. ^ Box of Oelatine. H GiU ot Ooracoa. Sugar to Taste. Extract the Juice of the oranges, Soak the gelatine, if prepared, and set the bowl in boiling water till the gelatine melts. Then add the juice of the orange, and add sugar to taste. Add a wineglassful of the best Curagoa, and strain tljie jelly through a coarse piece of swig?. Set In a mold to harden. The Creoles have a pretty way of making baskets out of the oranges and serving the jelly in them: Ev- ery little Creole child knows Jiow to make these baskets. With a sharp knife they trace out a basket in the? skin of the orange, and then gradu- ally loosening the pulp, they cut out the orange, without breaKing the skin. The orange meat is then used for the jelly, and the baskets are thrown into ice water for an hour. This makes them stiff. When the jelly is hard, it is cut into little squares, and gradually made to fit, like blocks, into the baskets. These baskets are placed in a dish, beauti- fully garnished with delicate buds and greenery, and the effect is very charming. Again, the oranges are cut open in this manner. The peel is marked off Into eighths and pulled from th? upper end of the stem, without separating the orange peels, which open like a beautiful flower. The jelly is piled into this when cool, whipped cream is heaped on the top, a few luscious strawber- ries are placed in the cream, and this is not only a most beautiful picture on the table, but a delicious des- sert. Try it. Peach JeJIly. Gel§e de PSches. 1 Pound of Sugar to Every Pint of Fruit Juice. ■Choose peaches that are just ripe, arid no more. Pare and cut in two, and take out the stone. Boil them in water sufficient to cover w^ell, strain through a hair sieve, and pour the decoction into earthen dishes. To every pint of liquid add a pound of sugar. Set on the Are, let it boil twenty minutes, skimming while on the fire. Pour immediately Into cups, glasses or preserve jars, and pro- ceed as directed above. Pear Jelly. Gel6e de Poires. 1 Pound of Sugar to Ereiy Pint of LlQuld. Choose pears that are just ripe, ■and no more. Pare and cut in two, land take out the stones. Boil them ■in water sufficient to , cover well, /strain through a hair sieve, and pour the decoction into earthen dishes. To every pint of liquid add a pound of sugar. Set on the Are, let it boll twenty minutes, skim- ming while on the flre. Pour im- 'raediately into cups, glasses or pre- serve jars, and proceed as directed. Pineapple Jelly. Gel6e d'Ananas. % of a Jound of White Sugar to Every Ponnd ot Grated Pineapsle. Pare the pineapple, take out the eyes and grate carefully, or pick into fine pieces. To every pound of (pineapple allow three-quarters of a pound of white sugar. Put the pine- apple and the sugar to boil in a por- celain-lined kettle and cook over a moderate flre for ten or flfteen min- utes, as directed above. Then pro- ceed to pour into jelly glasses or jars, cover tightly, and set in a cool place. Q,ulnce Jelly. Gel6e de Goings. , 1 Found of Suf;ar to Every Pint of Fruit Liquid. Pare and core the quinces, and cut into slices. Boil until well done, which may be determined by running a fork through them. Then strain the liquor through a flarinel bag, and measure it, allowing one pound of white sugar to every pint of juice. Place the whole on a fire in the pre- serving kettle, and watch closely. Do not let it boil over. Try occa- sionally on a saucer. When It be- gins to grow solid it is done. Then proceed to bottle as directed above. Raspberry Jelly. Gelfie de Framboises. To Every Pound of Berries 1 Poond cf of Suisar. To every pound of raspberries al- low a half of a pound of sugar. Put the berries in a porcelain-lined ketf tie, and cover them with the sugaf 'and let them stand for two hours. Then set over a moderate flre and bring the mixture to a boiling point. Skim while boiling; pour Im- mediately into cups and glasses, and cover tightly and place in a cool dry place. 335 strawberry Jelly. Gelfie de 'Fraises. To Every Pound of Berries a Half Pound of Susar. To every pound of strawberries al- Ipw a half of a pound of sugar. Put the berries In a porcelalil-ll'ned ket- tle, and cover them with the sugar and let them stand for two hours. Then set over a moderate flre and bring the mixture to a boiling point. Skim while boiling; pour immediate- ly into cups and glasses, and cover tightly and place in a cool, dry place. JAMS. Des Marmelades. Marmalades are a mixture of fruits that have been reduced to a paste of such consistency that they may be preserved. Ripe fruits, which cannot bear the process of blanching required in preserving whole fruits are used for this purpose. The beauty and the taste of a marmalade will depend on the fruits that are used and the quality of sugar, as also the care bestowed on the preparation. The Creoles, like their French an- cestors, are noted for their delightful preparations of marmalades. Directions for Making: a Marmalade. Always choose ripe, beautiful, luscious fruit. Cut the fruit into small pieces, and then add' the sugar and fruit in alternate layers in the preserving kettle, with a layer of fruit on the bottom. Set the kettle over the fire. If the fruit is not very Juicy add a small quantity of water to set it to boiling and to extract the Juices. As the fruit boils, shake the kettle occasionally by lifting it from the fire, and turn the whole briskly to prevent it froni burning at the bottom. Never stir with a spoon, as It will be sure to burn. When the whole mixture begins to look very clear, and you see, by testing a portion on a plate, that it is growing thick, it is done. Then take from the fire and put into Jars at once. This mode of cooking distinguishes the marmalade from preserves and Jellies. Follow these directions implicitly in the subjoined recipes: Apple Marmalade, Marmelade de Pommes. 3% Pounds of Fruit to 2 Pounds of Sugar. Peel the pears and cut them into quarters, extracting all the seeds. Then throw them Into frsh water, sufficient to half cover, and- set them on the fire. When they begin to grow soft, mash them with, a ivooden spoon; then add the sugar; add the grated rinds of several lemons; mix well, and then set all back upon the fire. Stir the mixture while boiling until Tt is of the proper consistency, and then pour it into Jars or glasses. Allow three aifd a half pounds of fruit to two pounds of sugar. Cherry Jam. Marmelade de Cerises. For Every Pound of Cherries % of a Pound of Sugar. Select fine, ripe cherries. Stone them, but be careful not to allow them to lose h their. Juice. Allow three- fourths '.ubf a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit. Arrange in layers as directed above, set on the flre, and boil till the syrup is very clear and begins to form a Jelly when a portion is turned upon a plate. Then bottle as directed. Orange Marmalade. Marmelade d'Oranges. To Every 6 Oranges Allow 2 Lemons. To Every Found of Fruit % of a Found of Sugar. Select fine, ripe Louisiana oranges. Remove the rind, grate it, and grate the pulp, preserving carefully, every particle of Juice. Extract the seeds. To every six oranges and Juice, al- low the grated rind and Juice of two lemons. Then weigh the whole, and allow for every pound of fruit three- fourths of a pound of sugar. Cook the whole, adding, of course, the grated rind of the oranges, and when done turn into Jelly tumblers. Test by turning a portion on "a plate. When it begins to Jelly, which will be in about twenty-five minutes, the mixture is ready to be turned into the tumblers and sealed. A marmalade of orange and lemon peel may be made by putting the rinds into a Jar of water, and letting them stand for several days. Then drain and grate or pound soft. Al- low a half pound of sugar for every pound of pulp. Mix a little water to start the boiling, and let all cook for three-quarters of an hour. Then proceed to turn into Jelly glasses. Pear Marmalade. Marmelade de Poires. 2 Founds of Sugar to H^ery S% Pounds of Fears. Peel the pears and cut them into quarters, extracting all the seeds. Then throw them into fresh water, sufficient to half cover, and set them on the flre. When they begin to grow soft, mash them with a wooden spoon; then add the sugar; add the grated rinds of "several lemons; mix well, and then set all back upon the flre. Stir the mixture while boiling till it is of the proper consistency, and then pour it into Jars or glasses. Allow three and a half pounds of fruit to two pounds of sugar. 336 Peach Afarmalade. Marmelade de PSches. To Every Pound of Peaches % of a Pound of Sugar; Allow three-fourths o£ a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit. Take ripe fruit; pare and cut into small pieces, and place in the preserving kettle, with a layer of fruit and a layer of sugar, and so alternate till all is in. Cook over the Are as di- rected. Watch carefully that they ' do not burn. When they begin to form a jelly take off the fire and put away in stone jars or glasses. Apri- cot and Plum Marmalade are made in the same manner. Pineapple Marmalade. Marmelade d'Ananas. To Every Pound of Pineapple % of a Pound of Sugar. Pare the pineapple, and remove the 'eyes. ' Grate carefully, preserving the juice. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to every pound of the grated fruit, and proceed as di- rected above. Q.uinee Marmalade. Marmelade de Goings. For Every Pound of Quinces Add % nC 3. Pound of Sugar. Take ripe quinces; out them into small pieces; stem them in sufficient water to cover them, and let them cook till they can be mashed with a wooden spoon. When well-mashed in the water, pour in "the ^gar. al- lowing three-fourths of a pound for every pound of fruit. Then pro- ceed to arrange in layers as directed above. Add the mixture; cook until it assumes a bright red color. Test by pouring on a saucer just sufficient to see if it will jelly; when it reaches this degree of consistency, proceed to run into jars or glasses. When cold it will be quite solid. Raspberry Jain. Ma*-melade de Framboises, To Every Pound of Raspberries 1 Pound of Sugar. Select fine, rips fruit, and weigh, and allow equal weights of fruit and sugar. Proceed to boil as directed. When they begin to jelly, they are ready to be turned into glasses. Raspberry Jam is very much im- proved by the addition of a glass of currant juice, cooking all to- gether. Sfra^vberry Jam. Earraelade de Fraises. To Every Pound of eBrrles 1 Pound of Sugar. Select fine, ripe strawberries, and weigh, and allow equal weights of fruit and sugar, proceed to boil as directed. When they begin to jelly, they are ready to be turned into the jelly glasses. Conserve of Grapes. Marmelade de Raisins. To Every Pint of Fruit Juice H Pound of Sugar. Boil the grapes for one hour, and then press them through a sieve. Add a half pound of sugar to every pint of liquid, and proceed as di- rected above. Orange Flo^ver and Rose Conserves. Conserve de Fleur d'Oranger et de Roses. 8 Ounces of Base Water. 2 Ounces of Powdered Orange Petals. 1^ Pounds of Sugar. This is a delicious and recherche Creole Conserve. Take two ounces of powdered orange flower petals, one and one-half pounds of sugar, and eight ounces of rose water. Steep the petals in distilled water, and then add the sugar, and set to heat over a moderate fire. Add the rose water. When it begins to jelly turn into a jelly glass. Violet Conserve. Conserve de Violettes. 2 Ounces of Freshly-Gathered Violet PetaU, VA Founds of Sugar. This conserve is made by pound- ing two ounces of freshly-gathered violet petals, with great care, into a paste, after steeping in distilled water sufficient to make a paste. Then add the sugar, in proportion of one and a half pounds and boil to a flake. PRESERVES. Des Conserves. General Directions for Making Preserves. Preserving fruits is very much on the same order as the making of Jellies, only in preserving equal quantities of fruit and sugar are used. Use only the best quality of sug4r. Fruits .may be preserved, either whole or otherwise. In preserving fruits whole, it is best to prick such fruits as pears, plums and peaches with a jieedle, so as to give vent to the juice, which would otherwise- escape' and burSt !th'6 skin. This' mode of preserving ISoks very beau- tiful but' the best way is the old- fashioned one of paring the fruit carefully, either in halves or whole, simply removing the skins and cores. Then make a syrup of one pound of" white sugar to each pound of fruit. Set the kettle on the fire, and let the syrup boll till the fruit looks: 337 quite clear. Or make the syrup by putting it on tiie fire with water, allowing a half pint of fresh water to a pound of the best white .sugar. Stir well and bring to a boil. Let it boil five- minutes^, when it will be- gin to bubble and froth. As the froth rises ,the syrup will become clear. Skini and set to one side of the stove to settle, and it is now ready to receive the fruit. If the former methed is used, take the fruit carefully out of the syrup as soon as possible, so as to take up as little of the syrup as can be helped, and then place the fruit in the jars. Let the syrup continue to boil till it becomes very thick, and inclined to run into a jelly. Then All the Jars up with it, and w^hen cool tie with muslin or paper around the mouth before sealing. But the new jars that conie with close-flttlng covers are the best, as well as the most economical finally. Use in preference a porcelain- lined kettle. If you use a copper kettle, never allow the preserves, jams or marmalades to cool in the kettle, on account of the verdigris which will be sure to form. Examine the preserves from time to time, and change the paper covers when they are discolored. If the slightest sign of air bubbles Is detected, open the Jars immedi- ately and boil the fruit again, but this will also destroy some of the flavor and excellent quality. It is absolutely necessary to keep all preserves, marmalades and jel- lies in a cool (not cold) place, that Is, pertectly free from dampness or possibility of heat. Heat will ex- cite fermentation, and the preserves will quickly sour. Dampness will cause them to decompose and mold. Follow implicitly the above direc- tions, and you will be sure to suc- ceed in making preserves, etc. Fig Preserves. Take the weight in sugar of the quantity of figs to be preserved; the figs must be ripe. Cover the figs with cold water for twelve hours; then simmer in water enough to gover them until tender, and spread (Stit upon a sieve to cool and harden. Make a syrup o fthe sugar, a cup of cold water being allowed for every pound. Boil until clear of scum, put in the figs, and simmer for ten min- utes Take them out and spread upon the dishes in the sun. Add the lemons and the ginger; boil the sy- rup thick, give the figs another boil of rifteen minutes and fill the jars three-quarters of the way up to the top. Then, fill up with boiling sy- rup, cover, and, when cold, seal up. Lemon Preserves. Conserve de Citron. 1 Pound of Sugar for Every Found of Lemons. Tlie Juice of 1 Lemon for Every Found of Fruit. A Tablespoonful of Alum for Every Quart of Water. Cut the lemon in halves, after paring, and remove the seeds. Then cut it up into a number of thir» slices, and put them into a vessel with cold water, adding a table- spoonful of alum to every quart of water, or a little salt. After sev- eral hours put the lemon into cool, fresh water, and le't it remain an hour, and drain. Then put it into a kettle and cover with two quarts of boiling water. Add the rinds of the lemon or citron, and a few pieces of ginger root. Let all boll till per- fectly clear. Then take' "out the fruit and drain dry. Then prepare a syrup, allowing one pound of sugar for every pound of fruit, and add the juice of a lemon for each pound' of fruit. Put the citron or lemon in without the ginger, and allow it to boil for three-quarters of an hour. It will become a, beautiful, clear am- ber color. Proceed to bottle or seal in jars immediately. Peach Preserves. Conserves de Pgches. To Every Pound of Fruit One Pound of Sugar. Prepare the syrup as above di- rected. Then peel the peaches and cut them into halves, removing the stories. Skim the syrup, and drop- in the peaches, one at a time, and let them boil till tender, from fif- teen to twenty minutes. They should be so tender that they may -bo pierced with a broom straw. This is- the test. Then remove the kettle from the fire, carefully drain out the peaches and put them in th3 jars. Then boil the syrup twenty minutes longer, or until it forms a thick syrup, removing the scum as it rises. Pour off any remains of thin syrup that may have adhered to the peaches in the jar, and fill in with the syrup, and set aside to cool. "When cold, screw the tops of the jars on. Label and set away. Fruit Preserves. Conserves de Fruits. To Every Pound of Fruit Allow 1 Pound of Sujar. Apple, Plum, Damson, Grape, Strawberry, Raspberry, Currant, pcuppernong, Muscadine, Pumpkin, Sweet Potato and other preserves are prepared in the same manner as in the directions given for Peach Preserves, only the berries, such as Strawberries, Blackberries and 338 Raspberries, do not require much coolcing. Preserve Cherries whole, stoning and stemming. Pineapple Preserves. Conserves d'Ananas. To Eyeiy Pound of Fruit One Pound of Sugar. Pare the pineapple and remove the eyes. Then slice it nicely and ■weigh it. Allow equal quantities of fine, powdered sugar. Place the fruit in a deep dish and then sprinkle the sugar over It, between the slices, in alternate layers, and let It remain overnight. Brain off the syrup in the morning, and put it in a kettle, and when it gets verj*i hot put in the fruit. Let it cook slowly till the slices look very clear, and then skim them out and put them in the jars. Fill to overflow- ing, and then seal. Q.uince Preserves. Conserve de Goings. To Erery Pound of Fruit One Pound of Sugar, Pare the ripe quinces, and then cut them into slices or rings. Weigh them and put them into the preserv- ing kettle and cover with water. When they are quite tender, pour off the superfluous water, leaving about half a pint to every pound of fruit, and adding sugar, pound for pound. Let the whole boil till the fruit is tender. Then carefully drain out the fruit and lay it in the jars. Now return the kettle to the fire, and let the syrup boil to a jelly. Then fill the jars with it. The jelly will grow clearer and brighter as time goes on, and quinces preserved in this way will keep for years. Orange Preserves. Conserve d'Orange. To Every Pound of Oranges 1 Pound of Sugar, Peel the oranges. Then slice nice- ly and weigh. Allow equal quanti- ties of fine white powdered sugar. Place the fruit in a deep dish, and then sprinkle the sugar over it, be- tween the slices, in alternate layers, and let it remain over night. Drain off the syrup in the morning, and put it in a kettle, and when it gets vecy hot put in the fruit. Let it cook slowly till the slices look very clear, and then skim them out and put them in the jars. Pill to over- flowing and then seal. Small Oranges Preserved Wlole. Conserves d'Oranges. To Every Pound of Oranges 1 Found of Sugar. Take small, green, sweet oranges, and pierce them several times with a penknife till very soft. Let them stand for three days in water, which must be renewed fresh every ■ day. Put them in a dish after the third day, pour thin clarified sugar over them, and then prepare a syrup as above directed. Add the oranges when it begins to boil, cook till they are tender, and proceed in the usual way. Or the oranges may be taken out, placed on a sieve after the first ebullition of the syrup, and drained and glazed or candied, as crystallized fruit. Watermelon Rind Preserves. Conserve d'fi:corce de Melon d'Bau. To Every Pound of Watermelon Rind 1 Pound of Sugar, Cut the watermelon rind into thin slices, and throw into a bucket of fresh water, into which you have dissolved a teaspoonful of alum for every quart of water. Let it remain for several hours, until they grow crisp, and then proceed in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for Citron preserves. Brandy Peacbes. Peches a. I'Eau de Vie. Vi Pint of I'ruit Water to 1 Pound of Gran- ulated Sugar. Equal Parts of Brandy and Sugar. Select fine freestone peaches, yel- low or white, not overripe. Scald them with .boiling water, cover well, and let them boil till tender. Then take them out, and drain on a plat- ter, and put in the jars and cover with brandy, and let them stand one week. Then make a syrup, allow- ing a half pint of the water in which the peaches were boiled to one pound of granulated sugar. Take out the peaches, drain them, and put into glass jars. Let the syrup cool, and mix equal parts of this with equal parts of the brandy, in which the peaches were put up, pour over the peaches, and seal. All brandied fruits are put up in the saine manner. CHAPTER XLV. Creole: candies. Bonbons et Sucrerles Creoles. Creole Candies occupy a unique po- sition among- confections in tiie United States, and it has often been said that the old French Quarter could apply for a patent for its de- licious "Paoanes t la' CrSme," Rose," "Praline Blanc," "Pistaches Pralinfies," "La CoUe," "Mais Tac- tac," "DragSes," "Guimauves," "Pas- tilles," "Nougats," and other exclus- ive products of the Creole cuisine. The Picayune uses the term "ex- clusive" advisedly, especially in the use of the word "Praline," for while tlie term "Praline" is not of Creole origin, being a common enough word In the vocabulary of the Frencli na- tion, with the mother country of Louisiana it simply means "su- gared," and has no reference what- ever to the delightful confections that had their origin in the old Cre- ole homes of New Orleans. There is, indeed, a traditional recipe of the great Viart, "Homme de Bouche," as he called himself, who tickled the palate of Charles X, in the Jo- cund days of the Bourbon restora- tion, and another old tradition that the Praline was a species of Dra- g6e, which derived its name from the Marechal de Plessin-Pralin, who was very fond of almonds, and whose butler one day advised him to have them coated wuth sugar, to avoid indigestion. . Again, there is an old French rhyme of Gresset's which has become incorporated in the banquette games of the little Creole children of New Orleans, and which runs thus: "Soeur Rosalie an retonr de matlnes. Pins d'nne tola Inl porta des pralines." But all these songs and stories simply refer to any sugar-coated nut. It was reserved for the gentle descendants Of these old French an- cestral homes to. evolve from the suggestiveness of the word "Praline" dainty and delightful confections that have, for upwards of one hun- dred and fifty years, delighted the younger generations of New Orleans, and the older ones, too. The' old negro cooks, quiok to appreciate and apply, took up the word, and out of their own ingenuity created pe- culiar forms of candy, such as "Lia Colle," "Mais Tactac,' 'etc., all of which are pleasant, and the delight especially of the little children of New Orleans. Aside from these, we have our "Drag6es," and "Pastilles," and "Car- amels," and "Bonbons 4 la CrSme," and "Bonbons au Liqueur," all of which are not only most agreeable to the taste, but are also elegant accessories of desserts at the most fashionable feasts. PRALIiVES. The word "Praline" is entirely as- sociated in New Orleans with the delicious pink and white sugar cakes made of cocoanut and sugar, or the brown ones, made of pecans and su- gar, which are sold by tlie old Cre- ole negro women of New Orleans. The "PraliniSres," as they are called, may always be found in Canal Street, near Bourbon or Royal, or about the entrance of Jackson Square, in the dim Cathedral alley, or going about the streets of the old French Quar- ter, selling their wares of an even- ing, when the little Creole children are taking an airing with their faithful old mammies. These little ones always have a "Picayune," or five-cent pice, with which to buy a praline or a "La Colle" or a stick of "Candi Tirg a, la Melasse." White Pralines. Pralines Blanches de Coco. 1 Pound of Fine White Sugar (Granulated). 1 Freshly-Grated Cocoanut (Small Size). 4 Tablespoonfuls of Water. Use a farina boiler or a porcelain- lined saucepan. Put "th« ■ sugar in the saucepan with the water and let it boil well. When it begins to form a syrup, take from the fire and stir in tiie freshly-grated cocoanut. Mix thoroughly and return to the fire, and let it boil until you can draw it like a thread between your finger and thumb. Be careful to stir con- stantly from the time you add the cocoanut. "When it begins to bubble, take from the stove, for it will havo 340 reached the above-mentioned state in two or three minutes. This will be sufficient if you wish the pralines to be light and flaky. Have ready a cleanly washed and somewhat wet marble slab or buttered dish. Take a kitchen spoon and drop the mix- ture into cakes on the slab, spread- ing them out with the spoon and rounding with a fork till they form a neat round cake of about a quarter of an inch in thickness and four or five inches in diameter. Let them dry; and then take a knife and gent- ly raise them from the slab. You will have the dainty white pralines that are such peculiar Creole confections and which are also much sought af- ter by strangers visiting New Or- leans. Increase the quantity of sugar in proportion to the size of the cocoa- nut, using three pounds of finest white sugar for a very large cocoa- nut, and never boil the cocoanut more than a few minu'',es in the su- gar. Fink Frallnea. Pralines Rose de Coco. 1 Pounfl of Fine White Sugar (Granulated). 1 Freely-Grated Cocoauut (Small Size). 4 TablesDoonfuls of Water. 1 TableBpoonful of Cochineal. Proceed in exactly the same man- ner as 'above, only add about a ta- blespoonful of Cochineal to the pra- lines, just before taking off the fire. Proceed to drop on a marble slab, as above. Pecan Pralines. Pralines aux Pacanes. 1 Pound of Brown Sugar. % round of Freshly-Peeled and Cut Louisiana Pecans. 1 Spoon of Butter. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Water. Set the sugar to boil, and as it begins to boil add the pecans, which you will have divested of their shells and cut some into fine pieces, others into halves, and others again into demi-halves. Let all boil till the mixture begins to bubble, and then take off the stove and proceed to lay on a marble slab, as above, to dry. These pecan pralines are de- licious. Be careful to stir the mixture in the above recipe constantly till the syrup begins to thicken and turn to sugar. Then take from the stove and proceed to turn on the marble slab. One pound of unshelled pecans will make a half pound shelled. In us- ing water, add just sufficient to melt the sugar. Cream Pecans. Pacanes a. la CrSme. 1 Pound of Pecans. The White of an Ebb. Vi Pound of Finest White Confectionery Sugar. Under this suggestive term is known a species of confection that is much used by the Creole as an addition to the most fashionable and. r'echerche feast. Peel the pecans in. halves, being careful not to break the meat. Then take the white of an egg and beat well with its weight in water till it forms a cream. Then work in with your fingers the finest white confectionery sugar till it forms a smooth paste. Take a small piece of this paste, roll it, and put it between two halves of the pecans,, and then lightly roll in the paste, flattening the pecan somewhat. The- coating outside must be very, very light, so that the delicate brown of the pecan meat shows through. Set the pecans to dry, and serve on dain- ty china saucers, setting a saucer to- each guest. Almond Pralines. Amandes Pralinfies. 1 Pound of Beautiful New Almonds. 1 Pound of Susar. 14 Glass of Water. A Pinch of Carmine. Peel the almonds whole, and theft rub them well with a linen cloth, to take off any dust. Put them into a skillet with a pound of the finest white sugar, and a dash of Carmine, if you wish to tinge them to a beautiful rose. But they are very beautiful when a snowy white. Place the skillet on the fire, stir- ring all the time until the almonds crackle hard. Then take off the fire- and work until the sugar becomes sandy and well-detacheil from the almonds. Then separate one part of the sugar, and again put the almonds on the fire, stirring them lightly with a spoon as they again pick up- the sugar, paying strict attention to- the fire, that it be not too quick. When the almonds have taken up this part of the sugar, put in that which you have reserved, and con- tinue to parch until they have taken up all the -sugar. Then take a piece of paper and put it in a sieve, and throw the almonds upon it, shaking- around so as to separate those which still cling together. Each almoni must be separate and incrusted with, sugar. There used to be an old colored, woman who supplied the judges and attorneys of the Civil District Court near the St. Louis Cathedral alley, with Ittnches. She made these an- cient Creole "Amandes Pralinges" a. specialty, in a little cornet of pa- 341 per, just as the ancient Creole dames to half the quantity and strain and bottle for use. To make colored su- gar, add- a little coloring and mix thoroughly. Then dry in an oven, and keep in a jar. Taniila Sugar. Sucre a. la Vanille. 2 Pounds of Loaf Suzar. 3 Vanilla Beans. Take three vanilla beans and cut them into shreds. Uet them dry, and then pound them with about two pounds of fine loaf sugar. When reduced to a very fine powder, sift, put in a jar and cork tight. Liemon Sngar. Sucre au Citron. Tlie Zest of 3 T.emoDS. 1 Pound of Loaf tjugar. Grate the zest or outer rinds of the lemons on pieces of loaf sugar, and then set to dry. When dry, pound very fine, sift, and put in a jar and cork tight. Orange Sugar is prepared in the same manner. CHAPTER XLVI. . CANNING OR PICKLING. Conservation des Substances Ali- mentaires et V6g6tales. The best method of pickling, and the surest, is to put the substance to be pickled in a glass bottle or a tin can that has been hermetically sealed, and subject it to a tempera- ture ranging from 80 to 100 de- grees, in a water bath, or "bain- marie," always taking the previous precaution to eliminate all air from the vessel before sealing it. The great success of canning and preserving is to exclude the air and to can while hot, filling thte vessel to the brim. Have your jars in a vessel of hot water on the stove. Roll them In the hot water, and then fill immediately to the top with the hot boiling fruit or vegetables. Have the tops of the jars ready and heated, and seal quickly, screwing down every few moments a little tighter, as the ingredients cool and the glass consequently contracts. Keep the jars in a cool, dark place. Attention to a few rules will make it possible for each housekeeper, es- pecially the Louisiana country housewife, to put up all her own goods, whether of vegetables or fruits or pickles. Canned Corn. Du Mais en Conserve. S Quarts of Coru.^ 1 Tablespoonful of Lard to Each Quart of Com. Boil the corn on the cob until no milk will exude if the grains ar» pricked with a needle. Then cut the corn off the cob, and pack into cans or stone jars, putting first a layer of salt half an inch deep, and then a layer of corn two inches deep, and continuing with these alternate lay- ers until the jar is nearly filled. The top layer must be of salt, and about an inch thick. Pour over all this melted lard in proportion of about a tablespooful to a quart of the corn. Set on the flre, in a bain-marie, and let all the bubbles come to the sur- face. Take off, stick a silver fork down into the jar, to see that all bubbles have ceased to form. Seal hermetically, and then set in a bain- marie, at a temperature of from 80 to 100 degrees, and let it cool. Keep In a cool place, and use as wanted. 351 Canned Tomatoes, Des Tomates en Conserves. 8 Dozen Tomatoes. A Bain Marie. Pour boiling water over the To- matoes to loosen the skins. Then skin the Tomatoes, and bring to a hard boil for twenty minutes. Then drain and can as quickly as possible, excluding all air. Set in a bain-ma- rie to cool, and keep in a cool, dark place. Canned Mushrooms. Des Champignons en Conserve. 8 Quarts of MusLrooms. Cook the mushrooms for three- quarters of an hour in salted water, drain lightly and can them, exclud- ing all air. Submit to the "bain-ma- rie," letting them cool gradually. Keep in a cool place. Canned Green Peas. Des Petits Pois en Conserve. 1 Dozen Quarts of Green Feas. Select the youngest and most ten- der peas, put them in boiling water, and let them cook for about thirty minutes. Drain lightly, and can im- mediately, excluding all air. Other vegetables may be canned in almost the same identical man- ner. PICKIiES. Des Cornichona. Pickles should not be made in ves- sels of brass, copper or tin, and should always be put up in glass bottles or hard stoneware. Only the best vin- egar should be useii. All vinegar should be scalded before using with pickles, otherwise it will not keep well. This is a fact that must be re- membered if you wish for success. In sour pickles use only the best cider vinegar. Never boil it, but sim- ply bring it to the boiling pomr, be- fore you pour it over the pickles. Always add a small piece of alum to Cucumber or Gherkin Pickles, if you wish them to be a beautiful green and crisp. Never use any but a wooden spoon in putting up pickles, and be careful in the use of spices, so that no one flavor will predominate, but that all will unite in a most agreeable whole. Pickles must be kept in a cool, dark place, and always -prell-covered with vinegar. The jars should be examined at fre- quent intervals. If white specks make their appearance in the vinegar, draw it off, scald and add. If the pickles are sweet, two tablespoonfuls of su- gar and a few cloves. Sweet Pickles. Cornichons Sucrfis. 100 Small Cucumbers. 3 Dozen Black Peppers. 1 Dozen Allsiiice. 1 Dozen Blades of Mace. 3 Dozen Black Peppers. 3 Dozen Cloves. 1 Cur of Sugar. 1 Gallon of Boilinc Viufifiar. Wash the Cucumbers, selecting nice small ones, of about a finger in length. Cover them with a strong brine, sufficiently strong to bear an egg. Put a cover on the jar, and let them stand for about three days. Then take them out and throw away the brine, rejecting all the pickles that have become soft under pres- sure. Put into a kettle of fresh water, and add a little powdered alum allowing about a quarter of a tea- spoonful, or a piece about half the size of a bird's egg, to one gallon of liquid. Put a close lid over all the boiler, and steam, without letting them boil, for about four or five hours. To one hundred small cucumbers or a gallon, allow three dozen black pep- pers, one dozen blades of mace, three dozen cloves, one dozen allspice, all whole, and one cup of sugar. Boll five minutes. Place the pickles in clean jars, and pour over the boiling vinegar. These pickles must then be corked closely. Three days after take or draw off this vinegar, boil it again, and again pour over the pickles. Re- peat this operation three times, at about intervals of three or four days. Then cover with a stout cloth, cork with a wooden or cork stopper, and in about two months they will . be ready for use. Examine from time to time. Sour Pickles. Cornichons au Vinaigre. 100 Small Cucumbers. A Boilins Brine. 24 Whole Spices. 1 Ounce of Mustard S-eed. 12 Small Bed Perpers. 6 Blades of Mace. 8 Cloves. 2 Onions. .Take about 100 small Cucumbers, and place them In a jar. Cover .them with boiling brine that will be strong enough to bear an egg. Let them stand for several days. Then take them out of the brine, wipe them well, and place them in clean jars. Add two dozen whole spices, one ounce of mustard seed, and six blades of mace, eight cloves, two chopped onions, and the red peppers. Cover them with boiling vinegar and cork. In several weeks they will be ready for use. If you wish the pickles to be very green, put them into cold vinegar, and set on the stove, and let them 352 heat slowly over a moderate fire till they are green; or, after the fourth day in which they have stood in the brine, pour this off, and take a por- celain-lined kettle, and line the bot- tom with fig and grapevine leaves, put the cucumbers in. with a small piece of alum, cover them closely with the vine leaves, and then pour cold water sufficient to almost fill the ket- tle. Cover closely with an inverted pan or a dish, and let them steam, slowly for four or five hours, till they are green. When a beautiful green, take out of the kettle, drain, sea- son as above, pour over boiling vin- egar, boil for five minutes, and they will be ready to be bottled for fu- ture use. Boine-SIaae Choiv-Cliow. Variantes a. la Moutarde. 1 Head of Cauliflower. % Head of Cabbage, Cut as for Slaw. 1 Quart of Tiny Cucumbers, the Very Small- est Kind. 1 Quart of Small Button Onions. 2 or 3 Pods of Green and Red Peppers. Chopped Fine. % Pound of French Mustard. % Teacunful of Celery Seed. 1 Teacupful of Horseradish. 1 Whole Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1 Pint of Strinc Beans. 1 Qill of Salad Oil. % Gallon of Vinegar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Mustard Seed. 1 Cupful of Brown Sugar, 14 Ounce of Tumeric, Shred the cabbage as for cold slaw, and cover the bottom of a stone jar with the cucumbers and the cab- bage. Then cover with a brine of salt and water strong enough to float an egg. Let them stand for twenty- four hours. At the end of that time boil the cauliflower, the onions and the beans in separate pots till ten- der. Then drain off all water. Mix them with the cucumbers and the cabbage. Put the vinegar into a porcelain-lined kettle, and let it come to a boil. Add the mustard seed, the celery seed, the grated horseradish, the minced garlic, and the pepper pods, cut fine. Let all boil for about five minutes, and stir constantly till it begins to thicken. Then add the sugar and make a paste of the Tu- meric, the mustard and the salad oil, moistening With a little cold vin- egar, and pour into the mixture. Stir well and pour while boiling hot over the vegetables. Put it away in stone jars, and in about ten days it will be ready for use. Mixed Pickles. Variantes. 1 Head ol Cauliflower. Vi Head of Cabbage, Cut as for Slaw. 1 Quart of Tiny Cucumbers, the Very Small- est Kind. 1 Quart of Small Button Onions. 2 or 3 Pods of Green and Bed Feppera. Chopped Fine. % Pound of French Mustard. H teacupful of Celery Seed. 1 Teacupful -of Grated Horseradish. 1 Whole Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1 Pint of Strinir Beans. 1 Gill of Salad Oil. m LralloQ of Vlnecar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Mustard Seed. 1 Cuuful of Brown Su£;ar. ^ Ounce of Tumeric. Take young cauliflower heads, small onions, peppers, cucumbers out in dice, nasturtiums and string beans, in the proportions given above, and boil till tender. Drain very dry, and pack in wide-mouthed bottles. Boil in one pint of cider vinegar, one tablespoon- ful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and tTvo tablespoonfuls ,of mus- tard seed and spices. Pour over the pickles, mix well, and seal carefully. Pickled Cauliflower. Choux-Pleurs Confits au Vinaigre. 3 Dozen Cauliflowers. To Each Quart of Vinegar 2- Teaspoonful* of Mustard and a Half Cns of White Sugar. Boil the cauliflower for about twen- ty minutes in salt and water; then remove and drain, and break care- fully, and let them get cold. Pack in a jar and pour over them hot Spiced Vinegar (see recipe), which you will have strained, having first stirred into each quart of vinegar two tea- spoonfuls of French mustard and a half cup of white sugar. Cover the Cauliflower well with the mixture and bottle tight. Green Pepper Pickles, Piments Verts Counts au Vinaigre. 2 Dozen Green PepDers. 1 Dozen Red Peopers. Vi Large Head of Cabbage. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Mustard Seed. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 1 Tablespoontul of Ground Allspice. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. Cut the tops from the peppers and remove the seeds. Then put a tea- spoonful of salt into each pepper, cover with cold water, and soak for twenty-four hours. Chop the cab- bage very fine, and mix well with the ground spices, mustard seed and salt. When thoroughly blended, stuff the peppers with this mixture. Then put on the tops, and stand upright in stone jars, and cover with cold vin- egar. In handling the peppers use 353 a napkin or gloves, as they will blister the hands. Green Tomato Pickles. Tomates "Verts Confites au Vinaigre. 1 Peck of Green Tomatoes. 1 Dozen Onions. 1 Ounce of CloveB. 1 Ounce of Mustard Seed. 1 Tablespoonful of White Mustard Seed. 1 Cupful of Salt, % Teaspoonlul of Red Pepper, or the Pods ' Cut into Strl»s. 1 Ounce of Cloves. 1 Ounce of Blaclx Pepper. Slice the tomatoes and the onions. ' Then put a layer of tomatoes and a layer of onions, and sprinkle with salt, and continue till all are used up. Let them stand over night. In the morning drain off all the liquor that has cacumulated, and put the vegetables Into a porcelain-lined pot with all the other Ingredients, and cover with two Quarts of vin- egar. Let all simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and then put away in stoae jars, letting the vine- gar cover the pickles, and boiling while hot. This recipe is for Sour Green To- mato Pickles. The Sweet Green To- mato Pickles are made by adding one cup of sugar to the above in- gredients. Plcfeled Mangoes. Mangos Conflts au Vinaigre. 24 Pepper Mangoes or Young Melon Mangoes or Muskmleons. A. Piece of Alum the Size of a Pecan. % Pound of Ginger. }4 Ounce Bach of Black Pepper, Mace, AU- sDice, Tumeric. ■^4 Pound of Garlic. % Pint of Grated Horseradish. % Pint Bach of Black and White Mustard Seed. % Teacupful of the Best Olives. Vj Head of Fine Young Cabbage. 4 Green Tomatoes. Take tw^o dozen Pepper Mangoes or young Muskmelons that are no larger than an orange. Let them lie for two weeks in a brine stpong enough to float an egg. Then soak them in pure water for two days, changing the water every day. Remove the seed by cutting a slit down the side of the Mangoes, but do not take the meat out. Rinse in cold water. Put a layer of green grape leaves in a kettle, and lay on this a layer of Mangoes, and then a layer of leaves, and so continue till all are used up. Let the top layer be of grape leaves. Now add a piece of alum about the size of a pecan, and pour vinegar over the mixture, and let all boil for fifteen or twenty min- utes. Then take out the leaves, and let the Mangoes remain in this vin- egar for five or six days. Prepare a stufl5ng of half a pound of gin- ger, which has been soaked in brine for two days and which you will have cut into small dice; one-haif on ounce each of black pepper, mace, allspice. Tumeric; one-quarter of a pound of garlic, which has been soaked In brine for twenty-four hours and dried; a half pint of grated horse- radish, and a half pint each of black and white mustard seed. Bruise all the spices well till fine, and mix them with a half teacupful of the best olive oil. Take a half head of fine solid cabbage, and chop fine; add a half pint of finely-chopped onions, a few small cucumbers, and a few green tomatoes, which have lain in a brine overnight. Drain all well and then select any imperfectly shaped mangoes, or any that have become too soft to stuff, and chop these fine with the spices; mix all this stufiing well together, and stuff the mangoes. Tie them with pieces of twine, or sew them up, put in a stone jar. and pour over them the very best cider vinegar. Set them in a dry place and cover well. At the end of a month add a pound and a half of brown sugar, and bottle for use. This preparation will keep for two years. Pickled Onions, Ognons au Vinaigre. 100 Small Onion Buttons. 1 Tablespoonful of Allspice. 1 Tablespoonful of Black Pepper and 1 Red Pepper Pod to Bacb Pint of Vinegar. 1 Dozen White Pepper Corns. 1 Dozen Cloves. 4 Blades of Mace. Select the smallest white button onions. Remove the outer skin, and then remove the inner skin with a silver knife. Steel will blacken the onions. Pack them in well-washed and carefully dried jars. Then pour over the onions a strong brine, and let them stand for twenty-four hours. At the end of this time pour off this brine and add another, and let them stand twenty-four hours longer. On the fourth day make another strong brine, and let it come to a boil, and' throw in the onions, and let them boil just five minutes. Then throw them into cold water for several hours. At the end of three hours drain off all water and pack closely in jars, allowing one tablespoonful of black pepper and a red pepper pod to every pint of vinegar. While -packing the onions. Intersperse them with white pepper corns and the spices, with an occasional piece of mace or cloves. Fill this up with the scalding vinegar, and cork or bottle while very hot. If you desire the pickles to be slightly sweet, allow a tablespoonful of sugar to every pint of vinegar. After three weeks they will be ready 354 for use, but, like all picklea, will be better if allowed to stand a month or two. Pickled String Beans. Haricots Verts Confits. To Every 7 Pounds of Beans Allow One Quart of Best Cider Vinegar. 1 Teaspoonful of Alum, 1 Ounce of Cloves. 6 Red Pepper Pods. Take young tender beans, and cut the two extremities lightly, and string carefully. Throw them into fresh water for several hours. "Wash well and drain, and rut them into earthen jars. Pour over boiling vin- egar, spiced as for Tomato Pickle, and allow one-quarter of a teaspoon- ful of powdered alum to each quart of vinegar. Cover and cork well. Three days aft.er pour off this vinegar and boil again and pour over the pickles, and let them stand again for three days. Add a few cloves and pieces of red pepper pods, and bottle closely. Young cauliflower, radishes, white and red; young corn and melons that have just begun to form may be pickled according to the above re- cipe. Pickled Walermelon Rind. Ecorces de Melon d'Eau Confltes au Vinaigre. 4 Pounds of Watermelon Rind. % Pint of Best French Vinegar. 1 Pound of Mrown Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Mixed Ground Cloves, Mace, Cinnamon and Allspice. Cut the watermelon rind into strips, cook in clear water and drain. To four pounds of rind take one pound of brown sugar and half a pint of vinegar, and make a syrup, to which add the ground spices. Boil the wa- termelon rind in this syrup till quite tender. Put in jars while hot and seal. This is a sweet pickle. Pickled Fruits. Fruits Confits au Vinaigre. 6 Pounds of Fruit. S Pounds of VPliite Sugar. 1 Pint of Best Cider Vinegar. 1 Ounce Each of Cloves, Allspice, Mace and Cinnamon. 1 Nutmeg. In pickling fruits, whether peaches, pears, plums, damsons or cherries, al- low six pounds of fruit, three pounds of white sugar, and one pint of the best vinegar, and spices of mace, cin- namon, cloves, allspice and nutmeg in proportion. Put the fruit into a kettle with alternate layers of sugar and spices, and add the vinegar. Let all boil for about five minutes, and then skim out the fruit and pack In glass jars as It begins to cool. Let the syrup boil till thick, and then pour the boiling syrup over. Bottle tight, and examine from time to time. If they show signs of fermenting, open the jars or set them uncovered in a kettle of boiling water, and heat the contents till they begin to bubble and cork again. In pickling cherries, always leave the stems on the cherries, and to every quart allow a pint of vinegar and two large teaspoonfuls of sugar, a dozen cloves and allspice, and five or six blades of mace. Let the vin- egar and spices boil together for about five minutes, and then turn into an earthen jar and let them cool. Then strain and fill the pickle jars with the cherries about three-quar- ters full, and pour the cold vinegar over tiiem. Bottle tight, and keep in a cool place. Sweet Tomato Pickles are put up by using the ingredients mentioned above, allowing, however, a pint and' a half of vinegar to the above quan- tities of sugar and fruit. Stew the tomatoes, vinegar and spices to- gether for about three-quarters of an hour, and then bottle for use. Tomato Catsup. Sauce de Tomates. 4 Pecks of Ripe Tomatoes. 2 Quarts of Vinegar. li Pound of Salt. li Pound of Sugar. % Ounce of Black Pepper. % Ounce of Allspice. 1 Ounce of Mustard. 1 Ounce of Ginger, Ground. One-third Ounce of Cloves, Ground, 1-8 Ounce of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. A Good Dash of Cayenne. % Pint of Alcohol. Set the tomatoes to boil in a por- celain-lined pot, and, after half an hour, press them through a sieve, to remove all the seeds and skin. Then return the liquid obtained to the pot, and let it reduce to three-quarters. Now add the vinegar, and let all re- duce to about one and a quarter quarts. Mix thoroughly, and add the spices, garlic, ground mustard, pep- per, etc., and let all come to a boll, stirring continually. Then take from the fire, and add the alcohol. Bottle while the mixture is very hot, and seal well. This is an excellent re- cipe, and the above sauce is very good, served with cold boiled fish, oysters, etc. The Creoles often add a half bottle of Port Wine, instead of the vinegar. Cliervil Vinegar. Vinaigre au Cerfeuil. 1 Pint of Dried or Fresh Chervil Leaves. 1 Quart of Best French Vinegar. Hake a wide-mouthed bottle, and half fill it with either fresh or dry Chervil leaves. Pill the bottle with the 355 best vinegar, and set it in hot water till it reaches the boiling point. Then remove from the fire. When cool cork and in about two weeks it will be ready lor use. The Creoles use this vinegar to add a flavoring to sauces for salads. Pepper Vimesar. Vinaigre Pimentfi. H Pint of Small Cherry or Chill- Peppers. % Pint of Best Trench Vinegar. Every Creole housewife keeps on hand a bottle of Pepper Vinegar. It is made by filling a pint bottle about half full of small Cherry Pep- pers or Chili Peppers, red and green, and then filling up with the best French vinegar or cider. Bottle well, and In about a week it will be ready for use. A peculiarity about this Pepper Vinegar is that the bot- tle may be filled again and again as it diminishes, without adding new peppers.. It is very strong and hot, and a few drops in one's soup or sal- ad will be found quite sufficient. Tarragon Vinegar. Vinaigre a, I'Bstragon. % Pint of Tarragon Leaves. 1 Quart of Best Cider or White Wine. The best French vinegar is made from the Tarragon leaves. The French gather the leaves and expose them to the heat of the sun for several days. Then they throw them into the best Cider or White Wine and steep for about two weeks. The liquor is then carefully strained, a fiannel bag being generally used, and it is af- terwards bottled, corked and sealed, and kept in a cool place for exporta- tion. Tarragon Vinegar may also be made by purchasing Tarragon leaves from any druggist, and allowing a half pint of the leaves to a quart bottle filled with the best Cider or White Wine, and follow the directions given above. Spiced Vinegar. Vinaigre AromatisS. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1% Gallons of the Best Cider or White Wine. 1 Ounce Eacli of Cloves, Allspice, Mace, Celery and Mustard Seed. 1 1-3 Ounces Each of Black Pepper, Tumeric and White Ginger. Mix all the spices together with the vinegar and the bits of ginger, and place in an earthen jar and cover closely. For smaller proportions take one quart of cider vinegar, and put it into one-third of an ounce each of dried mint, dried parsley, one grated garlic, two small onions, two cloves, one teaspoonful of pepper, corns of grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and one tablespoonful of sugar and good Bjandy. Put all into a jar, and let it stand for three weeks; then strain and bottle. Tabasco. Tabasco a, la CrSole. 3 Dozen Large Bed Peppers. 1 Clove of Garlic. U, Pint of Hot Spiced Vinegar. This is one of the most famous of our Creole sauces. It is made from celebrated Louisiana Tabasco Pep- pers, whose flavor is unsurpassed. The hot peppers are much sought alter. The following method of preparing this famous Sauce a, la Crgole is the one used in all the ancient Creole- homes of Louisiana. Take three doz- en large red Tabasco peppers or Chili peppers, and one clove of garlic, chopped very fine, and scald them un- til very tender. Then mash the pep- pers and garlic together, and press them through a sieve. Take the paste thus formed and dilute it with spiced vinegar till it reaches the consis- tency of rich cream. Bottle and seal for use. The garlic may be omitted. Red Pepper Catsup Sk la Cr£ole. Sauce de Poivre Rouge a, la Creole. 4 Dozen Pepper Pods. 2 Quarts of Best French Vinegar. > 3 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Horseradish. 5 Onious. 1 Garlic. Take four dozen pods of ripe green peppers, two quarts of vinegar, one of water, three tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, five onions, sliced, and one garlic. Boil all together till the onions are very soft. Then mash all together to a paste and strain, rubbing through the sieve till noth- ing remains but the seeds and skins. When cold, bottle and cork tightly for use. Maunsell-White. This is a famous Creole prepara- tion, and it bears the name of the family that originated it. In Maun- sell-White the infusion of Cayenne is so hot that only a few drops suf- fice, but the taste is most pungent and stimulation to the palate, and is especially agreeable when eating oys- ters with Oyster Bread, or "Hard Tack." Creole Mustard. Moutarde Creole. 1 Pound of Creole Mustard. 1 Pint of White Wine. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 1 Tablespoonful of Celery Seed. 1 Tablespoonful of Ground Allspice. 2 Blades of Ground Mace. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Put a pint of white wine into a clean saucepan, add the mixed ground 356 spice, crushed clove of garlic, celery seeds and salt. Steep on the rear part of the stove for one hour, lilix the mustard, ground to a flour, into a smooth paste, with equal parts of ci- der and Tarragon Vinegar. Strain out the spices from the wine and add to the paste while, boiling hot. Mix thoroughly and bottle for use. Salted Almonds. Amandes Sal§es. 1 Pint of Almonds. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. Take about a pint of almonds, shell them, and then blanch or scald them in boiling water till the skin comes off easily. Dry well, and place in a flat tin dish; add about an ounce of butter, and set the plate in a mod- erate oven until the almonds are a golden brown. Then take them out of the oven, add a heaping table- spoonful of salt, stir them round and round, or according to the way in which the almonds pick up the salt, dredging quickly with the salt, and turn them into a dish to cool. Pick out the almonds, and throw aside the extra salt; When cool. plao^ Pints of Flour. 1 Pint of Milk or Warm Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Vi Teacup of Fresh Yeast, or Half a Cake of Compressed Yeast. This is a delicious Creole Bread. The potatoes must be baked, peeled and mashed. Put the milk, or water, and the yeast and salt into a bowl or pan; add the butter, which must be melted. Beat thoroughly, and set over night in a warm place. In the morning add the potatoes, mashed and pressed through a sieve, and gradually add , the flour, which must be sifted three times. Beat to a light sponge; then cover, and set to rise in a warm place till it doubles its size. Then turn out on a bread board and mold into loaves; put in a slight- ly greased pan and let rise till light. Then bake in a moderate oven 45 minutes. ROLLS. Bourrelet. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Quart of Water. 54 Ounce of Yeast. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. V4. Pound of Lard. 1 Tablespoonful of Sugar (if desired.) Dissolve the sugar (if desired), the, yeast and salt, with the milk and the water. Then add flour suflicient to make a nice dough of medium firm- ness. Add the lard, and work the dough until smooth. Then form into a round mass and set to rise. When the dough has doubled it size, work anew and mold into small round balls and set into greased baking pans at a little distance apart from one anoth- er. Set to rise again and when they have doubled their size bake in a brisk oven. Frencli Rolls. Bourrelets a, la Francaise. VA Pints of Fresh Milk. 2 Quarts of White Flour. 2 Eggs. 2 Ounces of Butter. - Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar (which may be omit- ted, according to taste). % Cake of Compressed Xeast, Dissolved in Warm Water, Boil the milk, take off the stove, and add the butter, sugar and salt. Then add the well-beaten eggs. Stir in about one and a half pounds of flour, more or less, to make a stiff batter, and beat till air bubbles ac- cumulate all over the surface. Then cover with a close cloth and set to rise oven night in a warm place. Then take up the dough and knead lightly 360 with the remaining flour to make a nice, soft dough, and shape with your hands into nice, small rolls or balls. Set them together in the baking pan, which you will have lightly sprinkled with flour. Then set to rise for an hour longer. Set in the oven, and bake about a half hour. These rolls are delicious for breakfast, or for luncheon or supper. They may be set to rise in the early morning, and served hot at luncheon. Tea Rolls. Bourrelets pour le Thfi. 1 Quart ot Flour. , 1 Piut of MUt. yii Cake of Oompressed Yeast. 1 Teassoontul ot Salt. 1 Gill of Warm Water. Sift the flour and salt together. Scald the milk, and when tesid add the yeast, dissolved in a little warm water, to one-half of the milk. Add one-half of the flour, and make a thin batter, stirring very smooth. Set it to rise in a warm place, and at the end of three hours make it into a dough with the remainder of the milk and flour, and knead well till the dough no longer, adheres to the board or to your hands. Then shape it with your hands into staiall balls, set to rise for a half hour longer, or an hour, and bake in a moderate oven for a half hour. RUSKS. EchaudSs Sees. 1 Pint of Warm MilU. "A Cup of Butter. 1 Cua of Sugar. 2 Esgs. 1 Teassoonful of ^alt. 1 1 Cake of Compressed Yeast. Flour Snffioieut to Hake a Iiatter. Dissolve the yeast in the warm milk, and then add flour sufficient to make a thin batter. Set to rise over night. In the morning beat the su- gar and the butter to a cream, and add the eggs, well beaten. Add these to the batter, beat well, add the salt, and sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Then mold the dough into balls with your hands, or into small loaves. Set to rise until they have reached about twice their bulk. Then place in the oven and bake for thirty minutes. If sweet rusks are not de- sired, omit the sugar. TOAST. Pain Roti. 6 Slices ot Bread. Butter to Taste. Slice the bread, neither too thick nor too thin. Cut off the rough edges of the crust. Hold on a fork before burning coals till nicely toasted on one side. Then turn on the other, and proceed as before. If dry toast is desired, the bread is not buttered. If buttered toast, butter nicely, set in the oven a second and send to the table hot. Some cooks toast, bread by Simply setting the slices in the oven and letting them brown on either side. But there is no comparison in light- ness to the toast prepared in the above old-fashioned way. Cream or Milk Toast, Rotis a la CrSme ou au Lalt. 6 Slices of Bread. 1 Pint of 'Hot Cream or Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Toast the bread nicely, and butter well on both sides. Lay in a disjh, and pour over hot milk. Serve hot. Or, heat one pint of Cream, add one large tablespoonful of butter, and pour over the hot toast. Slightly stale bread may be utilized in this way. Soda crackers may be toasted and served in the same ivay. This is a great supper dish among the Creole plantation homes of Louisiana. liOst Bread or Egg Toast. Pain Perdu. 6 Eegs. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Oiange Flower Water. % Cud of Sugar. Slices of Stale Bread. The Finely-Grated Zest of a Lemon. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Brandy (if desired). The Creoles utilize left-over stale bread in that delightful breakfast relish known as "Pain Perdu." Break the eggs into a bowl, beat them till very light, add the Orange Flower Water and the Brandy, if desire.d, and then add the sugar, and beat thor- oughly. Add the grated zest of a lemon, mix well, and then cut the bread into slices or round pieces, taking off the crust, or still again in- to diamond shapes, and soak them well for a half hour in the mixture. Have ready a frying pan of boiling lard (see General Directions for Fry- - ing), lay in the bread, and fry to a golden brown. Lift the slices out with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Then place on a hot dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, as you would frit- ters, add a little grated nutmeg, If desired, and serve hot. Spanish Toast. Rotis a. I'Espagnole. 1 Egj. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Gill of Brandy or Rum (if desired). 3 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. % Ounce Each of Powdered Nutmeg and Cinnamon. 6 Slices of Stale Bread. Lard tor Prjlng. Beat the egg and sugar well, and add the milk and the rum or brandy. 361 if desired. Have ready the slices of stale bread, cut in diamond sliapes or sauare, and let them soalc for about a half hour in the mixture. Then lay into a pan of boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Skim out and drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven, and place on a hot dish. Sprinkle with powdered su- gar and grated cinnamon and nutmeg, and serve with milk or cream. BRiaCHElS. 2 Pounds o£ tlie Best Flour. % Ounce of Yeast. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Ounce of Salt. 1 Pound of tie Best Butter. 12 or 8 Eass. Under the name of "Brioche" is known the dainty "Koll Cake Bread' that is sold by all New Orleans bak- ers; that is brought to your door in the early morning by the "Bread Man," and which forms such a de- lightful accompaniment to the morn- ing cup of Cafgi Noir, whether in the exclusive homes • of the old French Quarter, or at the world-famed coffea stands in the French Market. To make "Brioches." take a pound and a half of the best quality of flour, and put it in a wooden bread trough. Make a hole in the center of the flour, and put in a half ounce of yeast, dissolved in a little warm water. Take milk or tepid water tp make the dough, using milk if you want it to be very rich and delicate, ^nd water if you have not the milk. Knead and mix the flour with one han<3. while adding the milk or wa- ter with the other. Make a dough th9.t is neither too stiff nor too soft, an4 when perfectly smooth set the dough to rise in a moderately warm Place, covering with a cloth. Re- member that if you use milk to make tlje dough, the milk must be scalded, that is, it must be heated to the boil- ing point and then allowed to grow tepid. Let the dough rise for five or six houre, and when increased to twice its bulk, take it and add the reserved half pound of flour, into which you will have sifted the salt. Add six eggs, beaten very light, with the sugar and butter, and mix all well together, kneading lightly with your hands, and adding more eggs If the dough is a little stiff. Then knead the dough by turning it over on itself three times, and set to rise again for an hour or three-quarters of an hour. Cover with a cloth. At the end of this time take It up and work again lightly, and then form into "Brioches," that is. work the dough gently with your hands, and the^ break it into pieces about the size of an egg. Pat these gently, fprnjlng them into neat rolls, a little flattened, and then make one roll about twice the size of the others. This roll will form the head of the Brioche. Have ready a baking pan with a buttered sheet of paper in it, and set the central roll in the mid- dle. Arrange around the other rolls, having at least six or eight, to form a perfect-looking cake. Cover the pan with a clean, stiff cloth, and set the cake to rise for an hour longer. When well risen, set in an oven a few degrees cooler than that used for baking Bread. If the rolls are large, let them bake an hour and a half; if medium, one hour, and if very small, a half hour. Some bakers and cooks glace the Brioche lightly with a beaten egg, which is spread lightly over the top, before placing in the oven. This gives the rich, glossy surface so often seen on the Brioche Again, if you cannot afford butter, use lard, or half butter and lard, but the Brioche made with butter and milk is the most delicate and refined, and the true Creole Brioche, peculiar to New Orleans. After the Brioches are baked, set them to cool, if you do not wish to eat them hot. When serving, whether hot or cold, sprinkle lightly with powdered white sugar. BABA. 3 Pounds of , the Best Flour. ya Ounce of Yeast. i Cup of Suear. % Ounce of Salt. 1 Pound of the Best Butter. I 12 or 14 Eggs. \ % Pound of Seeded Ealsins. 14 Pound of Currants. 14 Glass of Sweetened Water. A Tinge of Saffron. The dough for the "Baba" is ex- actly the same as that for the Bri- oche. Proceed in exactly the same manner, only at the moment of add- ing the reserved flour to the leavened add a half pound of raisins seeded, and a half pound of currants, washed, picked and dried. Add also a half glass of sweetened, tepid water, in which you will have put a little saf- fron. Be careful to keep this dough much softer than that for the Bri- oche, adding more eggs, if necessary, to insure the proper degree of con- sistency. The dough must rise at least six or seven hours. When it has increased to twice its volume, af- ter the third rising, cook as you would the Brioche, in an oven a few degrees cooler than that used in baking Bread. The "Baba" is made into a round cake, just like a Pound Cake or Sponge Cake, and" is formed into this round shape with the hands. After baking let cool and sprinkle with powdered white sugar. This is the cake that the Creole bakers of New Orleans send as a "Christmas" or "New Year's Offering" to their customers. 362 The German bakers of New Orleans took up the custom, and make the "Baba" by adding to the raisins and currants a little Aniseed, instead of the .Saffron. BULI/FROGS. Grenouilles. % Pound fo the Best Flour. 1^ Ounce of Yeast. Vi Cup of Sugar. % Ounce of Salt. 1 Pound of the Best Butter, 12 or S Eggs. Under this amusing name are sold the delicious small rolls, so dainty and fine, and which are served in all' our, Creole homes and restaurants. The rolls are joined together lightly in long rows of about eight inches in length and three in width. They are brought to the doors by the bakers every morning in this old French city: The dough- for "Bull- frogs" is just the same as that for the Brioche, only a half pound of flour is used, instead of a pound, aJid a cup of butter. Bake in the same manner. They are delightful accom- paniments to the most recherch§ breakfast. che:e}SE2 cakes. Talmouses. 14 Pound of Flour. 1 Glass of "Water. A Pinch of Salt. 2 TahlesDOonfuls of Flour. 6 Eg2B. 2 Cream Cieeses. A Brioche or Plain Paste (see Recipe Plain Paste.X Put the butter in a saucepan, an1 add the water and the salt. Let' all come to a boil, stirring constantly. Then take from the fire and add the eggs, beaten well, and the cream cheese. Mix all well. Then take small molds or tins and line with the Plain Paste, or Brioche Paste, rolled very thin. Place within the prepa- ration of cream cheese in quantity equal to an egg in size. Then cover the cakes with a piece of rolled dough, and bake in a slow oven. These are delicious breakfast cakes, and much in vogue in ancient Cre- ole homes. PEILIiARO. 2 Pounds of Flour. 1 Fojind of Butter, or Half Butter and Lar-J 12 Ebks. 1^ Ounce of .Yeast. 1 Gill of Brandy. 1 Tablespoohful of Orange Flower Water. Milk or Tepid Water to Form a Dough. 1 Pound of Figs or Stoned Cherries. Make the same dough as for the Brioche. At the moment of adding the leavened flour and the reserved flour, add the stoned cherries or peeled figs, the latter cut in halves. Then proceed as for "Brioches," and at the last kneading add the orange flower water and the brandy. Bake as you would the "Brioche." AVIXB CAKE. Savarin. 2 Pounds of the Beat Flour. % Ounce of Yeast. 1 Cup of Sugar. Vi Ounco of Salt. 1 Poimd of the Best, Butter. 12 or 8 £^gs. - Make the same dough as for the "Brioche,", and at the last kneading place it in a cake pan lined with a buttered paper. Set it to rise for an hour longer. Then place it in the oven, and brush over lightly with a beaten egg. Let it bake for about an hour and a half, according to the size, and then take from the oven and. soak in a syrup made of one pound of sugar and a pint of water, and boiled to a syrup, and into which you will add a wineglass of brandy or Jamaica rum. These delicious cakes may be formed into small cakfs, like the "Brioche," only they must not be joined together around a central cake. But the "Sav.afin" is nearly always baked in small cake tins. BISCUIT. Des Biscuits. 1 Quart of Flour. 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard. , 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Yeast Powder. 1 Pint of Water or Sweet Ullk. Sift the flour well, and add the salt and yeast powder, rubbing in thor- oughly with your hands. Then rub in the lard, rubbing the flour be- • tween your hands till every ...portion is permeated by the lard, and there are no lumps. Gradually add water or milk, using about a pint, more or less, mixing in with your hands. Then knead the dough until smooth and elastic. Form into molds, and lay on the biscuit board, and roll out till about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Cut into round cakes with the biscuit cutter. Stick lightly with a fork here and there over the surface, and bake in a quick oven for about five or six minutes. By adding four or five eggs, and, instead of the lard, one tablespoonful of butter, to the above, you will have egg biscuit. Benten Biscuit. Biscuit Battu. This is a great Southern biscuit, and is much affected by the ancient Creoles. Take 1 Quart of Flour. 1 Teasiioonful of Salt. 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard. 1 Pint of Milk or Water, or Halt and Halt. Sift the flour and add" the salt, mixing thoroughly. Then add the lard, and blend by rubbing through the hands till not a lump remains 363 In the flour. Now add gradually the water or milk, or the milk and water combined, using half and half of each, and knead all the whole till the dough, which must not be too soft, but rather stiff, is formed. Then lay the dough on a biscuit board on a block, and beat, for a half hour with a rolling pin. Knead lightly, and beat again for a full t-en minutes, till from every portion of the surface and sides the air bubbles or "blis- ters" form. Then roll out and cut Into round biscuits with the cutter, or sQuare ones with a knife, and stick here and there with a fork. Bake in a moderate oven for about ten or fifteen minutes, till a delicate brown above and below. . These biscuits are delicious and are much liketj by delicate people. The biscuit should be white as snow within. The sides should be slightly cracked. It was the pride of the an- cient Creole cooks as to how long they could beat these biscuits with- out growing tired. The steady "beat- beat" would gently echo through the olden manors from the kitchen in the rear, and every one knew what to expect when Tante Zizi came in smiling . with her beautiful biscuit, that had risen fresh, sweet and light without yeast powder or soda. Stewed Blscnlts. Biscuits Sautes. 6 Left-Over Biscuits. % Pound of Butter. 1% Pints of Milk. Left-over biscuits may be thus utilized. Take a porcelain-lined saucepan, cut the biscuit in halves, lay in the bottom of the saucepan, place a layer of butter over this, and then a layer of biscuit, and so on till all are used up. Pour milk over the whole, let it come to a boil, and serve hot. Soda and Milk Biscuit. Biscuit au Lait et a la Soude. 1 Quart o£ Flour. 1 Hearing Teaspoonful of Lard. 2 Cups of Sour Milk. % Teaspoonful of Soda. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Sift the flour and add the salt and lard, rubbing them in thoroughly with your hands, as above indicated. Then dissolve the soda In a little warm water and add to the milk, and work rapidly and lightly. Then lay on a biscuit board or a block of wood, and beat till the surface of the dough is full of air bubbles, or "blisters," as the old Creole cooks call them. Roll the dough out to about a quarter of an inch in thick- ness, out into round biscuits with a biscuit cutter, or square ones with a knife. Stick here and there over the surface with a. fork, and bake for about six minutes in a quick oven. If too much is used, it not only imparts a bitter taste, but gives the flour an ugly yellowish green color, that is neither tempting nor inviting. The Graham Biscuit is made by using three cups of Graham flour, one cup of white flour, one teaspoon- ful of Baking Powder,, one heaping tablespoonful of sugar or molasses, and two cups of lukewarm water, mixing the batter until it reaches the consistency of oatmeal porridge, and then pouring Into buttered tins. Let it rise till light, and bake in a moderate oven. Milk may be used instead of water, if you have It. Sweet Potato Biscuit. Biscuits de Patates Douces. G Potatoes. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or Lard. 1 Pint of Milk. H Cake ot Compressed Teast. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Tablespnontul of White Snsnr. Sufficient Flour to Make a Batter. Boil the potatoes, pare and mash them very fine through a sieve. Scald the milk and add the salt and sug-ar. Then beat till perfectly smooth. Add these to the potatoes and mix well. Then add about half a cup of flour, well-sifted several times, so that It will be very light. When the mix- ture grows tepid, add the yeast, which you will have dissolved in warm water, and beat well till you ■have a good batter. Then cover the mixture with a thick cloth, and put to rise in a warm place. After three or four hours, when it is, well-risen, add 'flo'ur sufficient to make a nice, soft dough. Knead very lightly and quickly for about ten or fifteen min- utes. At the end of this time take up and knead, lightly several times, and roll the dough out. Cut into little biscuits, place them in a slightly-buttered or greased pan, about, two inches apart, let them stand for half an hour in a warm place and then bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Tea Biscuits. Biscuits de Th§. 1 Ouart "f Flonr. • % Pint of Milk. 3 Esgs. 2 Ounces ot Butter or Lnnl. 1 Teaspoonful of Suirar. 1/1 Cake of Compressed Yeast. Scald the milk and add the butter. Set to cool, and then add the salt an 1 the sugar and yeast. Add one-half of the flour. Mix well, and then beat rapidly for about five or ten minutes. Cover up the pan with a cloth, and set in a warm place for about two hours. Then take up, add the well- beaten eggs and the remainder of the flour. Make a soft dough, and 364 knead lightly but constantly for about twenty minutes. If the dough is then elastic, form into loaves and set to rise in a warm place. When it has increased to twice its bulk, which will be in about two hours, pinch off into small pieces about half the size of a hen's egg, and mold into a small ball. Place all in a pan about two inches apart, and cover again for half an hour. Then bake in a mod- erate oven for about a quarter of an hour. They must be baked to a nice brown. Soda Crackers. Biscuits de Soda. 1 Quart of Flour. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Cues of Sweet Milk or Water. a Teaspoonful of Soda. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Sift the flour several times and add the salt. Mix well. Then rub in the butter thoroughly. Add the soda, which you will have dissolved in a little boiling water, and the milk, and mix all well together. Then knead well and put upon the biscuit board and beat with a rolling pin for upwards of half an hour, fre- quently rolling the dough over, and beating hard until the air bubbles cover every part, abovp and below. Then roll out into a nice square even sheet of dough, about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut into nice square cakes. Stick through and through with a fork here and there over the surface in even rows, and bake them in a moderate oven till they are hard and crisp, but not brown. Then hang in a muslin bag for about two days to thoroughly dry, and they are ready to be served. WAFERS. Gaufres. 1 Pint of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of BnttPr. % Teaspoonful of Salt. % Pint of Sweet Mllli. Sift the flour very, very fine, and then add the salt, and mix well. Add the milk and make into a nice, rather stiff dough. Place on a biscuit board and beat for fully a half hour, and then turn the dough over and beat for fifteen minutes more, the light- ness depending upon the beating. Roll them out into cakes that are almost transparent in thinness, but which can also be handled without losing their shape. Lay them gently in the pan, or better still, roll them out on a baking sheet which has been sprinkled with flour; then they will not require handling. Bake quickly in a hot oven. SHORT CAKE. Gateau de Pate au Beurre. 1 Pound of Flour. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or 2 of Lard. % Teaspoonful of Salt. A Pinch of Soda, or ^ Teaspoonful of Yeast Powder. Sift the flour and yeast powder to- gether, it you desire it instead of soda. Otherwise sift the flour, add the salt, and mix the lard or butter thoroughly together, rubbing between your hands till there is not a lump left. Then add sufBoient tepid water to make a nice, rather stiff dough. Roll out into a thin sheet, about- half an inch thick, and criss-cross with a knife lightly in diamond shapes. Set in the oven and bake for about flfteen minutes to a light brown. This is brought to the table split open and buttered, and eaten while hot. The short cake for fruits is made in exactly the same manner, only a quarter of a pound of butter is used, and two eggs, well beaten, and in- stead of water sour milk or butter- milk is used to mix, if you use soda, and sweet milk if you use yeast pow- der. This dough is divided in two, one for the upper, and the other for the lower crust, and is sprinkled thickly between with such fruits as strawberries, raspberries, etc. The dough should be soft and crisp. CORN BREAD. Pain de Mais. It has been said, and justly, that the only people who know how to make corn bread are the Southern people, and that the further you go south of Mason and Dixon's line, the better the corn bread, corn cakes, corn mulfins, that will be offered you. Throughout Louisiana the dainty "Egg Breads," Corn Cakes, Muflins, "Crackling Bread," etc., are the gra- cious offerings that typical Creole planters place before the guests who have been invited to partake of morning hospitality. As in these an- cient Southern manors, so also is the olden Creole homes of New Or- leans. The Creole planters of the an- cient regime had their plantation and city homes, and life gravitated between the one and the other with pleasing and inflnite variety. And so the cookery of the Creole New Or- leans is the cookery of Creole Louisi- ana, and in this^cookery Corn Bread occupies, with "Potato," "Hominy," "Rice," and "Wheat Breads," Its unique and interesting place. It may be added here that the Cre- oles, like all true Southerners, never use the yellow corn meal for mak- ing bread, but always the whitest and best meal. In the South the yel- low meal is only used to feed chick- ens and cattle. 365 Plain Corn Bread. Pain de Ma'i's. 1 Quart ot the Finest Indian Meal. 1 Teaspoontul of Salt. A Heaping Tablespoonfui of Lard or Butter. 1 Pint of Water. Pour just enough boiling water over tlie meal to scald it through and through, without making a dough or batter. Stir it well, and let it grow tepid. It will then be quite dry. Add a melted teaspoonful of lard or but- ter. Mix this well, and add water, and beat till the batter is very smooth. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a little boiling water, and add to the mixture, and grease a baking pan. Turn the mixture in and bake In a quick oven for about thir- ty-five minutes, till a golden brown. Take the bread from the pan whole, and place on a hot platter, and serve, cutting it at the table into slices about two inches long and three wide, and serving with butter. Egs Corn Bread. Pain de Mais aux Oeufs. 1 Quart of Cornmeal. 4 Easra. 1 Tablespoonfui of Butter or Lard. 1 Pint of Milk (Buttermilk if Possible). 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the meal with boiling water suflScient to melt. Beat the yolks ot the eggs very, very light. Add the corn meal and melted butter, and the salt, and beat till very light, moist- ening with the milk. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all well together. Pour into a buttered or greased pan, or into shallow tins, and bake quickly. This is the real Creole Corn Bread, so highly praised by all tourists through Louisiana. The secret of the exquisite flavor depends upon the proper beating of the eggs, as well as on the rising of the corn bread itself. If the eggs are well-beaten, the corn bread will need neither soda nor yeast to make it rise properly. Some add a. tablespoonfui of sugar when they wish to have sweetened corn bread. Corn bread, to be de- licious, should always be served hot and generously buttered. Nonpareil Corn Bread. Pain de Mais Nonpareil. 2 Gups of Indian Meal. 1 Cup of Flour. 3 Eggs. 2% Cups of Sweet Milk. 1 Tablespoonfui of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfula of Sugar (if desired). 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Beat the eggs very, very light, the whites and yolks sepsirately. Melt the lard or butter, and gift the Bak- ing Powder into the sifted meal and flour. Stir this into the yolks of the eggs and the milk. Blend thorough- ly. Add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat well together, and bake quickly and steadily in a quick oven for about a half hour. Serve hot, with butter. Risen Corn Bread. Pain de Mais au Levain. X Quart of Cornmeal. 1 pint of Milk or Water. 3 Eaga. 1 TeasDoonful of Salt. 2 Tablespoonfula of I'east. Beat the eggs well, and use boiling water or milk to blend the cornmeal, eggs and salt together. Then add the yeast, which you will .have dis- solved in a little hot water. Set the bread to rise for three or four hours and then bake in tins or in a greased pan, like a pone of bread, or make it into loaves. Again, the risen corn bread can be made much more quickly by simply adding two tablespoonfuls of yeast powder to the batter, or a half tea- spoonful of soda, dissolved in a cup of milk. Mix thoroughly, and bake in buttSred tins or a pan. Always scald the meal with boiling water first. Steamed Com Bread. Pain de Mais Si la Vapeur. 1 Cup of Flour. 1 Cup of Louisiana Molasses. 2 Cues of Sweet Milk. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. , Scald the meal. Beat the eggs very light, and beat the milk into them till very light. Add the molasses and yeast powder, and blend w_ell. Then add the flour, mixing and beat- ing till thoroughly blended. A half 3Up of sugar may be used instead. of the molasses. Tie In a cloth, as you would roll a pudding, and place in a steamer, on top of a pot of boiling water, and cover first with a close cloth, and then with the steamer cover, and steam for three hours. Then turn into a hot dish, and eat as a plain dessert, with a Brandy or Hard or Cream Sauce. (See Pud- ding Sauces.) Cornmeal Pone. Pain de Mai's CrSole. 1 Quart of the Finest Indian Meal. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. A Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard or Butter. 1 Pint of Sour Milk or Buttermilk. 3 Eggs. Pour just enough boiling water over the meal to scald it through and through, without making a dough or batter. Stir it well, and let' it grow tepid. It will be then quite dry. Beat two eggs very light, apd add to the meal, and add a melted tablespoonfui of lard or butter. Mix this well, and add the milk or buttermilk, and beat till the batter is very smooth. Dis- solve one teaspoonful of soda in a 366 little boiling water, and add to the mixture, and grease a baking pan. Turn the mixture in and bake in a quick oven for about thirty-live min- utes, till a golden brown. Take the pone from the pan whole, and place on a hot platter, and serve, cutting it at the table into slices about three inches long and two wide, and serv- ing with butter. A Plain Pone may be made by using hot water and lard, instead of milk and butter, making a thick dough, and form into loaves and bake. But it bears no comparison to the real Creole Pone, as made above. Nevertheless, this is a very good and nutritious white corn bread. In the rural districts of Louisiana the lard is often omitted, and the pone made simply of the hot water and cornmeal. Corn Dodg^ers. Petits Pain de Mais. 1 Quart of Indian Kleal. 1 Tablessioonful of Lard. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the meal with boiling water. Add the melted lard and the salt. Use sufficient boiling water to make a very stiff batter or soft dough. Then take up a handful of the mix- ture, and mold it with your hands into oval mounds, tossing the cake of dough lightly between your hands in a dexterous manner, and leaving the impression of your fingers across. Bake the pones thus formed in a quick oven. They may be served at dinner, and are delicious when prop- erly made. Ash Cake. Petits Gateaux Cuits dans la Cendre. 1 Quart of Indian. Meal. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. This is a real old Southern darky cake. The ancient Creole negroes of Louisiana excelled in making and baking it, so that no. ashes clung to the clean white cake. An ash cake, as the name suggests, is al- ways baked in the ashes, on the open hearth, and wood ashes must be used. The darkies had a rouring fire and' a sufficient quantity of hot ashes. They swept a clean place on' the hearth and drew out a pile of hot ashes, and placed the pone of bread, shaped like the Corn Dodgers, on top of the ashes. This was covered with hot ashes, and let bake to a nice brown. Then the cake was drawn out of the ashes, wiped clean with a cloth till every particle of ashes that adhered in the crevices disappeared, and served hot with butter or mo- lasses. Again, the old Creole darkies wrap the cake In a layer of fig leaves, to bake more neatly, but the real Ash Cake is baked as above. Fried Corn Cakes. Gateaux de Mais Frits. 1 Quart of Indian Meal. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Make the dough as above, adding, if you wish, a well-beaten egg, and milk instead of water. Beat till very light, and drop the stiff batter in large spoonfuls on a frying pan that you will have greased well with fat bacon skin. These cakes are very delicious when properly made. They must be fried to a golden brown. After each cake is taken from the skillet, the latter must be wiped oft and regreased with the fat bacon before putting the next cake upon It. Serve hot at breakfast or dinner. HOEOAKE. Gateau a la Houe. 1 Pint of Plour. % Teaspoonful of Salt. Boiling Water Sufficient to Make a Batter. These cakes may be baked on a griddle, just as you would a griddle cake, and served with butter. But the old Southern cooks, of which the Louisiana Creole plantation cooks were not the least, always baked these cakes on a hoe on h,ot coals in front of a wood fire, right out in the open air, before their cabin doors, or in their cabins before the roaring hearth fire. Hence the name Hoecake. The Hoecake was made of flour, with sufficient Tvater to moisten it well. A teaspoonful of butter or lard was added. The term Hoecake, so extensively used by the field hands, was taken up by masters and mistresses, and applied to a biscuit bread made of one pint of flour, one-half pint of milk, one teaspoonful of y«ast pow- der, and two spoonfuls of butter or one of lard, kneaded well together, rolled out with a rolling pin, and cut criss-cross, like diamonds, with a knife, and baked in the oven. This delightful refinement of the ancient Hoecake is served at dinner with a glass of milk or cream, as an accompaniment to Compotes of Fruits. JOHNNY CAKE. IM Pints of Indian Meal. 3 Eggs. A Pint of Siveet Milk or Buttermilk or Hot Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter, or 1 of Lard. % Teaspoonful of Soda (Ma; Be Omitted.) Beat the eggs till very light, and add the cornmeal, and beat till light. Add the melted butter and the milk or water. If buttermilk is used, you may use the soda, dissolvins It In two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Do not use the soda with the sweet milk. Make a dough or batter thick enough to be spread into cakes a 367 hal£ inch in thickness and about five inches in diameter, the caltes, of course, being formed round. Place in buttered tins, and bake in a mod- erate oven for about a half hour, frequently brushing across while baking with melted butter. Do this about four or five times. In the olden days, Johnny Cake was baked on a clean, sweet board, before a hot coal fire. The board had to be made of oak wood. The cake was formed and_ placed on the board, and the board was inclined at an angle before the hot coal Are, with a piece of wood or a flatiron to hold it up, and the cake was placed ' at such an angle that it could harden without slipping oft. When quite hard it was stood upright and baked to a nice, crisp brown on both sides, turning as needed, and frequently basting with butter. The Johnny Cake was' served hot for lunch or tea, being sent to the table hot, split and buttered, or served with fresh, sweet butter and buttermilk. Hence the old Creole song, which was sung to the little children, and which, being translated, runs: ^ "Come, Butter Cake! Come, Butter Caket Two little boys are waiting at the gate For a hot Johnny Cake. Come, Butter Cake!" And so on, the lines varying "Two little girls," or "Little girl and boy are waiting at the gate," according to the number of children the old mammy was tending. The old South- ern darkies also sang this song while churning. CRACKLING BREAD. Gratons. Cracklings are the bits of fat meat left after all the lard has been ren- dered from the fat pork. They are eaten extensively throughout rural Creole ' Louisiana. The fat pork is cut into small bits, about the size of a man's hand, and then fried till every bit of grease has been ex- tracted. This grease is then clari- fied and used as lard. The cracklings are saved, and eaten from time to • time within the next two weeks, sim- ply being warmed over again. Again, they may be made at any time by frying small bits of fat pork. These cracklings, to use the country par- lance, "Go very well with Corn Bread," and are not only eaten with it "au naturel," but also made Into that typical rural bread of the coun- try parishes, "Crackling Bread," or "Gratons." . To make this, take one pmt ot meal, a half teaspoonful of salt, and cold water enough to make a thick batter. Mix the cracklings, already fried of course, in the batter, and pour 'a large tablespoonful at a time on a griddle. Fry to a golden brown. Crackling' bread is very crisp, and if properly made is a very palatable bread, requiring no butter or other accompaniment to make it tooth- some. MUFFINS. Galettes. No breakfast cake admits of greater variety than the Muffin. We have Plain Muffins, Egg Muffins, Corn meal Muffins, Rice, Hominy and Cream Muffins, besides several fancy Muffins, and that delicious breakfast accompaniment, "Muffin Bread." Miiffln Bread. Pain Lev6 a la Pate de Galette. 3 Cups ■ of- Flour. ' 1 Pint of Milk. ^1 Cake of Compressed Yeast. 4 Egss. Vi Pound of Butter. 1 Teasjjoonful ot Salt. Scald the milk and add the hutter. When it grows lukewarm, add the yeast, dissolved in about three ta-. blespoonfuls of warm water. Add the salt and flour, and beat well for about ten minutes. Then set in a warm place over night. In the morn- ing beat the yolks of the eggs well, and then the whites to a stiff froth; add the yolks and , beat well, and then add the whites, and mix all thoroughly. Beat till very light," let it stand for about a quarter of an hour, and then bake in a buttered pan for about twenty minutes in a quick oven. Bread Mufflns. GWettes de Pain. Left-over bread may be utilized in this way: 2 Pints of Stale Bread Crumbs. 1 Pint of Milk. % Cup of Sifted Flour. 2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Soak the stale bread crumbs in the milk for a half hour. Beat the yolks of the eggs till very light, and the whites to a stiff froth. Add a tea- spoonful of salt to the bread, and then pour in the melted butter, and mix thoroughly. Add the flour, into which you will have sifted the bak- ing powder, and beat well. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs, and put the mufflns into the muffin rings or gem pans, and bake for about a half hour in a quick oven. Cornmeal Muffins. Galettes de Farine de Ma'is. 2 Cups ot Cornmeal. Ya Cup ot Sifted Flour. 2 Eggs. ly. Cups of Buttermilk or Sweet Milk. 2 Spoonfuls of Butter. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. ^ Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the meal. Scald the milk. 368 and add the butter. When lukewarm add to the cornmeal and beat well. Add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and beat well. Add the flour, into which the. yeast powder must previously be sifted. Mix well and add the whites of the eg-gs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat steadily for about ten minutes, and then pour into greased muffin rings or gem pans, and bake for twenty minutes, in a quick oven. If buttermilk is used, add a teaspoonful of soda, dis- solved in the milk. In making Muffins, if milk is not available, use lukewarm water, or half milk and half water, if pos- sible. Cream Muffins. Galettes a. la CrSme. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Pint of Flour. 3 EKSg. , 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1% TeasDOOnfuls of Yeast Powder. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately. Then add the cream and salt, and finally the flour, into which you will have blended the yeast powder. Beat well and flU the muffin ring or gem pans one-half full. Place in a quick oven and bake for twenty minutes. Bets Muffins. Galettes aux Oeufs. 3 Cuss of Flour. 1 Pint of SIllli. % Cake of Compressed Yeast, or 2 Teaspoon- fuls of Bakinir Powder. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Prepare the Muffin batter as above. and set to rise over night. In the morning prepare the eggs as above indicated. Blend and beat till light. Then turn the muffin batter into greased muffin rings, and bake abo^t twenty minutes in a hot oven. The Muffins must be eaten hot. Graham Muffins are made in exact- ly the same manner, only the Gra- ham flour is used instead. Sometimes the Graham flour is mixed with the plain flour in the proportion of two cups of the former to one of the lat- ter. In Plain Muffins the eggs are omitted. Hominy Muffins. Galettes de SaccamitS. 2 Cups of Fine Hominy. 3 Eess. M Cup of Melted Butter. 3 Cups of Fresh Milk or Sour Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Salt. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda, If Sour Milk Is Used. 94 Cup of Flour. Mash the hdminy through a sieve, and then stir in the milk, salt, yeast powder and sugar. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and then the flour, well-sifted. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. If buttermilk is used, add a half teaspoonful of soda, instead Oj. the yeast powder. These Muffins may also be made out of the left-over cornmeal. Queen Muffins. Galettes &. la Reine. 1 Cup of Sugar. 3 Cups of Flour. 3 Ekbs. 1 Pint of Sweet Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butler. 1 Teasjioonful of Salt. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder or J^ Cake of Compressed Yeast. If yeast is used, set the batter to rise over night, as in Egg Muffins, and then proceed in exactly the same manner, adding the eggs in . the morning. Beat the eggs separately till very light, add to the batter, and pour into mufiin rings or gem 'pans and let the mixture rise a half hour longer. Then bake for twenty minutes in a quick oven. If yeast powder is used, beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, add the scalded milk and butter, and add the flour. Beat till Very light, and add the yeast powder, and ' finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into gein pans or muffin rings, and bake for twenty minutes in a hot "oven. Quick Muffins, Galettes a. la Vitesse. 3 Cups of Flour. 1 Pint of Milk. Vi Cake of Compressed Yeast, or 2 Teaspoon- fuls of Bakins: Powder. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the milk, and add the butter. When it grows lukewarm, add the yeast, the flour and salt, and beat all well for about ten minutes. Then set the bowl in a warm place, cover with a cloth, and let the mixture rise for about two hours. When very light, beat well again, and add two eggs well beaten. Turn into muffin rings or gem pans, and let them rise a half hour longer. At the end of ' that time place them in the oven and bake for about twenty minutes. If yeast powder is used, beat into the batter, and proceed to bake imme- diately. The Muffins may be baked in muffin rings, on a griddle, or as above indicated. Rice Muffins. Galettes de Riz. 2 Cups of Boiled Rice. 1 Cup of Flour. 3 Eggs. 1% Pints of Milk. 1 Tablesfioonful of Lard or Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar (May be Omitter). 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Mash the rice through a close sieve. 369 and beat the yolks very light, and add. Add the milk and butter, and then sift in the flour and half a tea- spoonful of baking powder. Add the sugar and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add the salt, and bake in muffin rings, in a quick oven for about fifteen or twenty min- utes. GEMS. Petits Bijoux. Prepare the same batter as for Quick Muffins. Pour into gem pans, and bake for about twenty-five min- utes. Graham Gems are made by using two cups of Graham meal to one cup of boiled rice or cornmeal, or two cups of Graham flour to one of wheat flour, and the other ingred- ients in the same proportion as for Quick Muffins. Corn GeiuB. Petits Bijoux a, la Farine de Mais. ^^' 2 Cups of Cornmeal. 1 Cup of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 4 Eggs. 1 Pint of Sweet Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Baking Powaer. Boil one-half of the milk and pour It over the cornmeal. Add the butter instantly, and stir well. When thor- oughly mixed add the cold milk and the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Add the salt and then the flour, into which you will have sifted the bak- ing powder. Mix thoroughly, and then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Pour ijito greased or buttered gem pans, and bake about a half hour in a hot oven. Always remember to fill the pans only half full, leaving room for the batter to rise. CRUMPETS. Bmietes. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Cups of Flour. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cake of Compressed Yeast. 1 TablesBOOnful of Salt. Scald the milk and set to cool. Add the salt, and gradually beat in the flour. Beat till very smooth, and add the yeast Beat continuously for ten minutes and then set in "a warm place to rise. After several hours beat well again, and add the melted butter. Mix thoroughly and then turn into greased muffin rings and bake till a beautiful brown, turn- ing first on one side and then on the other. Send to the table very hot. Break open with your fingers, and butter nicely. SAIiLY liUJflV. Pain a la Vielle Tante Zoe. Sally Lunn is nothing more than the old breakfast dish known to the Creoles for generations as "Pain a. la "Vielle de Tante Zoe." Take 1 Pint ot Milk. IH Pints ot Flour. % Cupful Of Butter. 4 Es:s. 1 Teaspoonlul of Salt. % Cup of Sugar. % Cake of Compressed Yeast. Warm the butter in a pint of milk till the milk reaches the boiling point. Do not let it boil. Simply scald. Then add the salt and a ta- Ibespoonful of sugar. Let it cool. When tepid add the flour, well sifted, and beat thoroughly into the mixture. Lastly, add the yeast, dissolved in a little hot milk or water. B^at it continuously for at least five min- utes. Then, when the batter begins to break into blisters, cover it and set to rise for the night. In the morning add the yolks of the eggs, beaten till very light, and the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix careful- ly, and dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in the mixture, if it seems any- Tvay sour. Turn the whole into a shallow buttered dish, and set to rise for fifteen minutes longer. Bake about twenty or twenty-five minutes in a moderately quick oven, till it is a light brown. This cake, like all muffin batter, should not be cut with a knife, but torn apart with your hands. If cut, all muffin batter at once becomes heavy. The cake may be also made much more quickly by mixing in the morning, using the above ingred- ients, only adding three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, instead of the yeast. Beat quickly and thoroughly, and turn into a buttered tin, and set to bake at once. Send to the table hot, and eat with a generous endow- ■ ment of butter. WAFFLES. Gaufres. Waffles are delightful accompani- ments of breakfast, lunch or tea, and may be made of flour, rice, hominy or cornmeal. In all recipes for Waf- fles, if you have not the milk, substi- tute lukewarm water, and if you have no butter, use instead a half spoon of lard, but certainly the taste of the Waffles is much improved by the butter and milk, especially the butter. Half milk and half water, boiled and grown tepid, may also be used in the proportions indicated in the recipes. Plain Waffles. Gaufres de Proment. These Waffles are made of flour, and are more especially known as "Plain Waffles." They .are the Waf- fles most generally served. They are made as follows: 370 3 Cubs of Flour. 2 Eg2S. 2 Cupa of Milk. m Teaspoonfols of Baking rowder. 1 Large TablesDoonful of Butter. 1 TeasDOontul of Salt. Sift tlie flour and salt and baking powder tog'ether. Beat the yolk of the egg- till very light. Add the melted butter to the milk, which should be scalded and grown luke- warm, and then mix in the whites of the eggs. Now add the flour grad- ually, making a nice, light batter. If it appears at all stiff, add a little more milk. Have your waflle Irons ready, thoroughly heated. Have at hand a small brush or a stick with a piece of clean, fringed cloth wrapped around the end. Dip this In a little melted lard, and brush over the interior of the irons, till every part is greased. Pour the bat- ter into a pitcher, so that you may the more easily .fill the irons. Fill until the elevations are lightly cov- ered, and then close the irons quickly and turn it over. Bake the Waflle about two minutes, or till a nice, delicate brown. Carefully remove from the irons, place in a hot plate or waflle dish in the mouth of the oven, and proceed with the baking. Sei;d to the table very hot. Cornmeal W^afiles. Gaufres de Farine de Mai's. 2 Cubs of Cornmeal. 1 Cup of Flour,- 3 EZ2S. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. % Teaspoonful of Soda. Dissolved Itt Hot -Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the milk and then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Add the milk and the soda, dissolved in a little hot water, and then add the melted butter and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Now add the flour, gradually making a nice batter, not too thick, nor ye.t too thin. Beat till all is very smooth and proceed to bake as above. Rice may be substituted for the flour, if you desire rice ahd cornmeal muflins; add about two tablespoon- fuls of flour to bind. "Waffles of left-over grits may be prepared by adding one cup of grits to two of flour, and proceeding as above. Potato -Waffles. Gaufres de Pommes de Terre. 1 Pint of Irish Potatoes. 4 Eeks. 1 Pint of Flour. ly. Pints of Milk. ^ Cake of Compressed Yeast. Mash the boiled, left-over potatoes through a sieve, and then add the milk and the sifted flour. Add the yeast, which you will have dissolved in a little warm water, and set the whole to rise for two hours. At the end of that time add the eggs, beaten separately, and mix well. Set to rise again for a half hour, till light, and then proceed to bake as in Plain Waffles. Sweet Potato Waffles, Gaufres de Patates Douces. 2 Cups of Mashed Sweet Potatoes. 1 Cup of Melted Butter. V4 Cup of Sugar. 1 Pint of luilk. 2 Eggs. 4 Tablessoonfuls of Flour, Mash the potatoes through a sieve, and add the eggs, beaten separately. Mix well, and add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the butter and beat again, and add the milk, mixing thoroughly. Now add the flour, using sufficient to make a thin batter, that will bind the potatoes. Grease the -waffle irons -well, and pro- ceed to bake as above indicated. Properly made these -waffles are de- licious. Left-over potatoes may be thus utilized. The eggs may be omitted. Rice -Waffles. Gaufres de Kiz. 1 Cua of Boiled Rice. Hi Pints of Milk. 2 Kggs. 1 Cup of Flour or 2 Cups of Rice Flour. 2 TeasDoonfuls of .Baking Powder. 1 Teassoonful of Salt. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Mash the rice through a sieve. Beat the yolks light, and add, and then add the salt, the baking powder and the milk. Beat -well, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Now add the rice flour to • make a thin 'batter, and proceed to bake as above. Be careful to grease the irons very well, so that the rice may not adhere. If white flour, rather than the rice flour, is used, use in proportion two cups of boiled rice. Instead of one. Risen -Waffles. Gaufres au Levain. 1 Quart of Flour. 1V> Quarts pf Milk. % Cake of Compressed Yeast. 3 Eggs. 2 TaWespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. Scald the milk, add the butter, and let it grow tepid. Sift the flour arid salt together, and add the milk and butter, and finally the yeast. Beat all continuously for five or ten min- utes, and then cover well and set in a warm place for about two hours. Beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately, and add first the yolks to the batter, after it has riseh well, and then add the whites. Beat in thoroughly, and set to rise again for about a quarter of an hour. Then beat lightly and pour 371 Into a pitcher. Prepare the waffle Irons as indicated above, and pro- ceed to bake in the same manner. These Risen Waffles may also be made by mixing the flour, milk and salt and yeast together, and setting to rise over night. In the morning add the melted butter and the eggs, beaten separately, set to rise fifteen minutes longer, and proceed as above. Other Breakfast Cakes. Autres Gateaux de DS.ieuner. In addition to Muffins, Waffles, etc., "Batter Cakes." "Flannel Cakes," "Buckwheat Cakes," "Griddle Cakes," etc., form pleasing a,nd toothsome varieties for the morning meal, and. It might be added, not only for the morning meal, but f6r luncheon and tea as well. BATTER CAKIS&. Galettes de Pate. 2 Cuds of Flour, Finely Sifted. 2 Cupfuls of Sweet Milk. 2 Tablespoontuls of Baking Powder. 3 Eggs. Beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately, the former to a stiff froth. Add the flour to the yolks, and beat till very light. Add the yeast powder and bake again. Then add the sweet milk and beat well. Now add the whites of the eggs and mix all to a very smooth, light batter, as thick as a battel: that will run in a stream from the mouth of a spoon. Have ready the hot griddles, which you will grease with lard lightly, or better still, with a piece of fat bacon. Drop the cakes on the griddle from a large spoon, and baVe about two minutes to a nice brown, turning first on one side and then quickly on the other. Pile the cakes on a plate in the mouth of the oven, buttering each generously as soon as baked, and send to the table almost as fast as you bake. These are the most deli- cate and delightful of all Griddle Cakes. They may also be made with sour milk, instead of sweet, in which case use a half teaspoonful of soda, in- otead of the baking powder. BUCKWHEAT CAKES. Galettes de Sarrasin. 8 Cups of Buckwheat -Flour (Perfectly Pure). 154 Pints of Sweet Milk or Water. % Cake of Compressed Yeast. % Teaspoonful of Salt. Take a small earthen crock, or a pitcher, and put the warm milk or water, or half milk and water, into U. and then add the salt and the buckwheat flour. Beat till perfectly smooth, and then, when you have a stiff batter, add the yeast, dissolved In a little water. Beat this till smooth, and then cover well and set to rise over night. In the morning add a half teaspoonful of soda or saleratus, to remove any sourness that may have accrued during the night, and this addition will also increase the lightness of the cakes. Bake on a griddle, like Batter Cakes. Buckwheat Cakes are also often made by taking two cups of buck wheat flour, one cup of wheat flour, one and three-quarters pints of mlik, one teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and mixing all together till very light, and baking immediately on griddles^ Many, indeed, prefer them combined with the flour. This mixture may also be made as in the aboye recipe, by using compressed yeast, and set- ting to rise over night. A table- spoonful of butter may also be aflcfed if desired. Serve with Louisiana Syrup. FliANNEL. CAKES. Galettes de Pate au Levain. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Eggs. ^i Cake of Compressed Teast. 3 Cuss of Flour. 14 Teaspoonful of S^lt. Heat the milk, and when it grows tepid, add the yeast, dissolved in a little hot milk or water, and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter. Set to rise over night, or for at least three hours in the morning. In the morning add the yolks of the eggs, beaten light, and the melted butter, and mix well. Then add the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Beat well, and then bake on a griddle, as in the above recipe for Batter Cakes. Be sure to make the batter stiff enough at the start to allow for the admixture of the eggs and butter in the morning. When once the cakes have risen, no flour must be added, unless the cakes are set to rise for an hour again. Sweet Flannel Cakes are made by adding a half cup of sugar. These arc nice for tea. Again, Flannel Cakes may be made without yeast, by using one pint of buttermilk and one teaspoonful of soda. The batter is then made in the morning, without setting to rise over night, and is baked on the griddle immediately after mixing. Omit the butter in these buttermilk cakes. They will be very light and spongy without the butter. GRIDDLE CAKES. Gateau a. la Plaque. 3 Cuss of Flour. 3 Cups of Sour Milk or Wann Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. 3 F.ggs, Beaten Very Light. •1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Mix the flour and meal, and pour 372 on the milk or warm water. Make a batter somewhat stiffier than for Buckwheat Cakes, and add the eggs, Tvell-beaten, the whites and yolka separately, and finally add the soda, dissolved In a little warm water. Bake on a griddle, making the cakes large and generous. Serve with Louisiana Syrup. Bread Griddle Cakes. Gateau de Pain k la Plaque. Utilize stale, left-over bread for these cakes. Take 1 Quart of Bollins Mill:. 2 Cups of Fine Bread Crumbs. 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoontul of Melted Butter. % Teaspoontul of Salt. Soak the bread in the boiling milk, and as it cools beat it to a very smooth paste. Then add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and the soda, dissolved in a little warm water. Finally add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and a half cupful of sifted flour to bind well. Bake on a hot griddle, and butter, and serve with Louisiana Molasses or Syrup. Commeal Griddle Cakes. Gateau de Farine de Mais k la Plaque. V4 Teaspoonful of Soda. 2 Cu£is of Cornmeal. 1 Cup of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 3 Eggs. 3 Cups of Sour Milk or Warm Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. Scald the meal and mix with the milk. Add the flour, into which you will have mixed the salt. Beat the eggs very light and add, and. when all has been beaten very light add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little w^arm water. Bake on a grid- dle to a nice brown. If sweet milk Is used, be careful to use. instead of the soda, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Graham flour, which is now used so much, may be made into griddle cakes, using two cups of the flour to one of wheat flour, and adding also one large tablespoonful of lard or butter. Cook as other Griddle Cakes on a hot griddle. Hoinln7 Gi^Iddle Cakes. Gateau de SaccajnitS k la Plaque. 2 Cups of Hominy. 1 Ouo of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 3 Eggs. S Cups of Sour Milk or Warm Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda. Boil and mash the honiiny, or util- ize left-over hominy. Add the flour. Into which you will have mixed the add, and when all has been beaten very light add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a. little warm water. Bake on a griddle to a nice brown. If sweet milk is used, be careful to use, instead of the soda, two tea- spoonfuls of baking powder. Serve with Louisiana Molasses or Syrup. Frencb Griddle cakes. Gateau de Plaque k la Frangaise. 1^ Pints of Sifted Flour. 6 Eggs. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 1 Ounce of Sugar. 1 Cub of Milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light; then add the flour and melted butter, and then add the warm milk. Beat all till very light. Add a half teaspoonful of baking powder, and then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all till very smooth. Drop a tablespoonful at a time upon the hot griddle; turn quickly and bake on the other side, allowing about two minutes in all; place on a hot platter, butter well and spread with Jelly; then roll up, dust with pow- dered sugar and serve very hot. Green Corn Griddle Cakes. Gateau de Mai's Tendre k la Plaque. 1 Quart of Finely-Grated Green Com. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. Beat the eggs separately, and then «idd the yolks, well beaten, to the corn. Add the salt, melted butter and the milk, and mix well. Then add sufficient flour to make a thin batter, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on a hot griddle, butter generously, and serve very hot. This is a great Creole cake, and very delicipus. R2ce Griddle Cakes. Gateau de Riz k la Plaque. 2 Cups of Boiled Rice. 1 Cur of Flour. 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk or Water. H Teaspoonful of Salt. 114 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. Mash the rice through a sieve. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together, and add the sugar to the milk. Add this to the flour and mix in the rice till free from any lumps. Then add the eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, and mix into a very smooth batter. Have tho griddle well-heated. Bake the cakes to a nice brown, and serve with Louisiana Syrup. 373 PUFFS. Souffles. 1 Pint of Sweet Milk. y^ Pound of Flour. 2 Ounces of Butter. 4 Beat the whites and the yolks separately till very, very light. Warm the milk and add the melted butter. When cold, mix with the yolks of the eggs, and add the flour and salt, beating till very light. Now add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir lightly, turn into buttered tins, fllliug each about half full, and bake to a light brown. CRACKSfKLS. Craquelins. 2 Cups of Rich Milk. 4 Tflblespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Gill of yeast. ] Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the milk and add the butter, and let it grow tepid. Then add the yeast and dissolve well. Add the salt, and now add the flour sufficient to make a light dough. Set to rise, and when twice Its bulk work light- ly, and roll out very thin, and cut into pieces about two and a half inches sauare. Stick well with a fork through and through, and bake in a slow oven, as you would soda crackers. HOMS-MADB YEAST. Levain de Manage. 6 Large Potatoes. A Handful of Hops. 3 Pints of Water. % Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Yeast. Flour Sufficient to Make a Batter. Commeal to Blend. In these days of baking powders and prepared yeasts that are sold by all grocers, and that have proved such a saving of time and trouble to the housekeeper, it nlight seem super- fluous to add a recipe for making yeast. Nevertheless, the following ancient recipe, in use for many years in Creole homes, is given as the final recipe of the Picayune's Creole Cook Book: Take six large potatoes, and pare them, and then boil in about three pints of water. Take a handful of hops, and tie them in a muslin bag, and boil with the potatoes. When these are thoroughly cooked, drain the water on sufficient flour to make a good batter, and set the mixture on the stove for a few minutes, till the flour is well-scalded. Do not let it boil or simmer under any consid- eration. Take it from the Are, ana let it cool. Then mash the potatoes and add them to the flour, and add a half cup of sugar and a half cup of yeast. Let it stand in a warm place till it has thoroughly risen.' Then add cornmeal that has been sifted and dried, and knead well, until you have a dough thick enough to roll out, and that will crumble when dry. Cut this dough into cakes, and spread on a board and place in the shade to dry. Then keep in a box in a dry place. This mixture may be also kept and used as a liquid by simply stopping when you have come to the point where you must add the cornmeal. Let the mixture thus stand in a warm place till it ^has thoroughly risen. Then scald a large jar, wipe dry, and put in the yeast. Cover tight, and keep in a cool place. One- third of a cupful of yeast will make two loaves of bread. But as Compressed Teast can be had at any grocer's, and is a great saving of time and trouble, it is always better to get it, and it has this advantage, that it may be pro- cured fresh when needed. CHAPTER XLVIII. SUGGKSTIONS TO HOUSEKBBPF.KS. The following suggestions will be found of interest to ail housekeep- ers, especially to the young and in- experienced. They have been care- fully prepared, with especial refer- ence to the needs of the household, and bear in every respect upon the recipes given in the Picayune's Cre- ole Cook Book: 374 Comparative Table of Weights and Measures Used In the Pica- yune's Creole Cook Book. Every housekeeper should have for her own convenience and for the correct measurement of Ingredients used in making any dish, where ex- measurements are absolutely neces- sary to success, a pair of scales, and a set of tin measures with small lips or spouts; these measures should range from one gallon to a half gilJ. But as so few housekeepers think of the necessity of having such meas- ures until they set to making prepa- rations where measurements must be exact, the following carefully pre- pared table may be referred to with absolute reliance upon the compara- tive quantities given: Twenty-five drops of thin liquid equal half a teaspconful. Four tablespoonfnls of solid or liquid equal one tablpspoonful of solid or liquid. Four tablespoonfiils equal one wineglassful or one-half cill. One wlneglassful equals half a gill or a quarter of a cup. Two wineglassfuls equal one gill, or half a cup. Two gills equal one teacupful, or sixteen tablespoonfuls. One teacupful or one liitchen cupful equals half a pint. Two teacupfuls or two kitchen cupfuls equal one jint. Two pints equal one quart. Pour quarts equnl one pailon. One tablespoonful of liquid equals halt an ounce. Two tablespoon fuls equal one oiuice. One level tablespoonful of Hour equals halt an ounce. Two level tablespoonfuls solid equal one ounce liquid. Sixteen ounces equal one pound. One pound of solid is equal to one pint of liquid. One quart of unsifted flour equals one pound. Four teacupfuls of sifted flour equal one pound. Three cups of cornmeal equal one pound. One and one-half piuts of cornmeal equal one pound, t One pint or two cups of granulated sugar equal one pound. One pint or two cups of brown sugar equal one pound. Two and one-halt cnpfuls of white Jul- ▼erized sugar equal one pound. One well-rounded tablespoonful of butter equals one ounce. 1 Tablespoonful of salt equals one ounce. One teacupful of cold, hard butter, pressed down, equals half a pound. Two cups of cold, .butter, pressed down, equal one pound. One pint of fluel.v-chopped meat, solidly packed, equals one pound. An ordinary sized tumblerful is equal to half a pint, or one teacupful. Ten esKs equal one pound. A dash of pepper is equal to one-eighth of a teassoonful. Rules to lie OTiserved In mixing Ingredients. In every recipe given in this book follow implicitly the exact order given for the mixing of ingredients. This mixing has been systematically arranged, and any deviation will fail of success. Do not think that you can put all your ingredients together pell-mell and succeed in making any Creole dish. Whether mixing the in- gredients in a "Roux," preparatory to adding the ingredient which con- stitutes the dish proper, or whether making desserts, cakes, etc., add every ingredient, even though it be only a dash of pepper or a flavoring extract, in the exact order and pro- portion given. On the strict observ- ance of these rules followed by Cre- ole cuisinieres, depends the success 6f Creole Cookery. Cutting, Chopping, Slicing and Mincing, Observe implicitly the directions given in regard to cutting, chopping, slicing and mincing, whether applied to vegetables, meats or seasonings. When the Picayune Creole Cook Book says to chop an ingredient, it means to chop in the strict sense of the word. When it directs that veg- etables, etc., shall be cut, it means to cut, in the proper acceptation of that term in cookery. When it says to slice, it means that the in- gredient shall be sliced, and not cut or chopped; and so when the term "mince" is used,, it means that the ingredient shall be minced, or hashed, or grated, as fine as possible. The Use of Wines and Liquors in the Picayune's Creole Cook Book. In regard to the use of Wines and Liquors in cooking, it may be said that wine enters frequently into the preparation of Creole dishe», such as meat, stews, courtbouillons, etc. In all recipes, however, where its use is indicated in this book, it may be omitted, according to taste, with- out detriment to the dish, except in "Courtbouillon a, la Creole,". the fa- mous "Bouilliabaisse," and in all Matelotes, in Salmi of Venison, and in certain preparations of meats and poultry and game in which the suc- cess of the dish depends greatly upon the flavoring given by a small addition of wine. But. as a general rule, wine may be used or omitted according to the taste. This ex- planation is given because there are many families, Creole and otherwise, who object to the use of wine, even in cooking. As regards Wine, Brandy and Rum in Sauces for Puddings, etc., a va- 'riety of recipes that are equally re- cherche and in which liquors of no kind are used, are specified In this book. The intelligent housekeeper, therefore, will find a varied and pleasing selection with or without wine or liquors. 375 Tbe TTse of Broth, Bouillon or Consomme in Cooking. What has been said In regard to Wines and Liquors holds good with regard to the use of Broth, Bouillon or Consomme, indicated in many of the recipes for fish, meats, poultry, etc. While the infusion of Broth, Bouillon or Consommg, or oyster water In lieu of plain water, adds, where indicated, a delightful flavor to the dish, the use of any of these is not imperative in making the dish, and water, in the proportion given for Broth or ConsommS, may always be used instead, except in special re- cipes. For instance, if you wish to have a real "Jambalaya k la CrSoIe," the use of Broth or Consomme in- stead of water, where the Jambalaya is made of meats, and the use of oys- ter water where it is made of oys- ters, will impart a flavor that is far superior to a dish prepared with wa- ter. Nevertheless, in hundreds of househol-ds water is used almost ex- clusively, even in making a Jamba- laya, because it is not every family that chooses to make a pot of Broth or Consomme just for the purpose of using it as an ingredient for a dish, and in our climate it is not possible to always keep a quantity of meat or flsh stock on hand for culinary purposes. Never be afraid, therefore, to un- dertake a dish because it calls for wine or Bouillon or Consommg. Just proceed with the cooking, using wa- good, and other directions implicitly ter instead, and if your seasoning is followed in the preparation and cook- ing, the absence of either wine or Consomme will scarcely be detected by even the most experienced cook or epicure. Elxplanatlon of French Terms tJsed in Cooliing and Serving Dlstes. In preparing the Creole Cook Book the Picayune has sought to overcome the great difficulty that the majority of people outside of Louisiana ex- perience in understanding French terms, as applied to various dishes and orders of service. Discussions have been going on in all parts of the country of late as to the desir- ability of abolishing all French terms on bills of fare, one celebrated newspaper declaring: "What is the use of calling a dish 'Canard Canvas- back,' when there is no French name for the famous Canvasback Duck?" Ail this is very amusing down here in Louisiana, where the Canvasback Duck has been always known as the "Canard de Cheval." And so with other dishes. The use of French, however, 'continues in bills of fare prepared for all distinguished ban- quets, etc., critics td the contrary notwithstanding, and will continue, because the French order of service is the one accepted the world over, in all state and official gatherings, and the pretty touch given to a dish called by a French name is one that ladies especially will be slow to give up. An air of distinction is conferrei upon even a homely dish by calling it by its French name, and, as remarked above, all criticisms against the prac- tice will not do away with the usage. The Picayune has sought to over- come the difficulty experienced by. those who are not acquainted with the French language and French terms in cooking by giving with each recipe not only the correct Bnfelish name of the dish, but the French one also. It now proposes to further as- sist housekeepers and caterers gen- erally by giving the definitions of a few additional French terms used in cooking and serving dishes: Assaissonement — A Seasoning; a salaj dressing:. Assaissonnement Aromatinue — An aromatie seasoning, such aa " parsley, cliervil, etc. ..Aspic — This Is a meat jelly ur' sayory for cold dishes. Boned Turkey. Galantine, Calf's Foot Jelly, Cold Tongue, Cold Daube, are ali termed "En ABpic." Au Gratin— AH baked or roasted dishes that are prepared with crumbs grated and sprink- led oyer are called "Au Gratin." Bouchees — A Bouchee indicates a mouthful, and is from the French "Bouche," the mouth. It is applied in cooking to all yery thin, small patties or cakes, as "Bouchees d'Hui- tres," "Bouchees a la Reine," etc. Bonne Bouche— A good mouthful. Baba— A peculiar Creole sweet cake, ma'da of yeast, flour, milk and eggs. Bisque— A soup made of staellSsh. It is red in color, suet as "Crawfish Bisque." the shells of which are boiled and mashed and . pounded and strained and added to the soup stock. A "Lob%ter Bisque" may be prepared after the same manner as the "Crawfish Bisque" in latitudes where lobsters may be obtained fresh. The Bisque then becomes "Bisque d'Homard." Bisque d'Ecreylsse— A Crawfish Bisque or soul. Blanchair— To blanch. To blanch an article set it on tlie fire till it boils, and then plunge in cold water. This rule applies to vegetables, poultry, nuts, almonds, etc. The skin is thus removed and the article is blanched. Blanching also means simply to scald, as blanching oysters. Bouillon— A bouillon is a clear soup, much stronger than broth, and yet not quite fo strons as Consomme. Bourtins— A form of sausaie. Boulettes— A small ball of meat, fish, etc., iasJied and formed in balls and fried. Bouilliabaisse— A famous French-Creole way of cooking flsh. the French using the Sturgeon 'and Perch; the Creoles the Redflsh and Bed Snapper. The flsh is cooked to the point where it begins to boil; then you must stop on the Instant. Hence the word "Bouilli- tiaisse," from "Bouilllr," to boil, and "Baisse," to stop. (See recipe ' for Bouilli- abaisse.) BuisBon d'ificrevisse- -A Crawfish Bush. This is a celebrated Creole hors d'oeuvre, as also 376 a yerj handsome table garnish. The crawflsli are boiled; a glass fruit or cake stand Is placed in the center of the table, and a goblet is set upon it; the goblet is filled with celery tips and. parsley tips, and the entire dish is beautifully garnished like a bush of green- ery. The crawfish are hung around the edges of the goblet and the dish, and in amid the greenery, and the effect of the red against the green is very pretty, and for all the world like a bush of green and red. TJie crawfish are served fram the bush. Buisson de Chevrettea— A Shrimp Bush. This resembles the Crawfish Bush, only the shrimp are small and cannot be hung with much grace from the sides and round of tibe dish. They are, therefore, piled into a small, deep glass dish first, and a cover is put on top lo press them down. They are then turned over, and will be found clinging together in one fiolid mass. This is then placed on top of a lowing orders of service are intend- glass cake stand or fruit dish. Dainty bits of celery ~ tips and asparagus are heaped around as a border; another row is formed a little lower, and again intermingled with asparagus tips and celery tops, between ■which the pink shrimp glimmer. The effect is very pretty. This also is arranged for a table garnish, and the shrimp are served as an hors d'oeuvrc. ■Braise— xo smother. AH meats, fish, vege- tables, etc., cooked in a closely-covered stew- pan, so as to retain not only their own flavor but those of all other Ingredients entering Into the dish, are termed "Braise," or "a la Braise." Brioche— This is our delightful Creole break- fast cake, made of slightly sweetened egg and milk, batter and yeast, set to rise over night, and formed into a "Brioche," o;- cakt?, with a central cake for a head, and the other cakes arranged, to the number of six or eight, around, and sprinkled with sugar. Canapes— On toast. Anything served on toaat Is called "sur Canapes." Canelle — Cinnamon. Canneton (masculine); Canette (feminine)— DuCii-iins. ■Canneton— Meat stuffed and folded up; force- meat b2.11s. Charcuterie— The term for all sausages. Civet— A stew made of hare and so called because of the fiavor of chives (cives) that enters into its comaosition. Consomme— A clear soup that has been boiled down to almost a jelly -broth, and wheich is very rich. Consomme Dore— A gilded or golden yellow consomme. A la Creme— With Cream, as "Sauce a la Creme," etc. Creme a la Glace— Ice Cream. Coup de :aiilieu— A middle drink or course served in the middle of the meal, just before the roasts, as "Ponche a la Cardinale," "ito- man Punch," "Sorbet a la lloyale," etc. Craoaud- A toad; bullfrog. A la Crapaudine— Crapaudine means like a toadstool, or stone, ■ as "Pigeons a la Cra- paudine," which means pigeons cooked and dressed to resemble little toadstools or frogs on a stone. (See recipe Pigeons a la Cra- paudincj Courtbouillon— A fish stew, generally made of Redfish. Courtbouillon a la Creole— A stew of Ked- fish. to which wiua is added. Croutons— Crusts of bread cut like dice or la any fancy shape, and toasted or fried In butter. Croustades— Pieces of bread larger thaa Croutons toasted or fried in butter or lard, and used ^to serve minces or meats upon. Dindonneau— A turkey .chick. Dari^le— A custard pie. Diable— The devil. A la diable— According to the devil. Gen- erally applied to hot, fiery preparations of meats, sauces, etc. Entree— A side dish, served between the courses at dinner, Entremet— A small by-dish. Kutremets are sweet or ^otherwise. Bau de Vie— Brandy or Whisky. Eau de Vie properly means "water of life." Entremet Sucre— A sweet ^y-dish. Sweet entremets are generally served towards the close of the meal, just before the roasts. Flan^A custard. Fondue— To melt. Generally applied to a light preparation of molted cheese, such a^ "Welsh Rarebit." Fondant— Sugar boiled and beaten to ft cream paste. Granits— Aromatized fruit waters. Grille— Broiled. Hors d oeuvres— A by-dish; an outwork; a digression. Under this term is classed all dishes that are regarded simply as accesso* ries to a meal, and designed to excite the appetite, but not to satisfy. It is undoubt- edly because they are placed on the table outside or apart from other dishes that they have been so called. A la Jardiniere — According to the gardener'g wife. Matelote— A rich fish stew, made with wine. Mayonnaise — A rich salad dressing, made with eg^, oil, vinegar, etc., and served with chicken, shrimp, fish salad generally. Meringue— The whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth with sujar. Meringuees— Covered with a Meringue. Marinade — A rich liquor of spices, vinegar or wine, etc., in which beef or fish 'ire steeped for several hours before cooking. A la mode — After a mode or fashion. Mironton— Cold boiled meat; hashed and warmed over, and served in various ways. Neiire— Snow. A la Neige— Snowy ; like snow. ; Fate— A batter; a pie dough. I^ates— Small pies or patties of oysters, meats, fruits, etc. Panache— Mottled, variegated. As "Creme Fanachees," or "Variegated lee Cream." ■ Poulet— A chicken. A la Poulette— As a chicken; for instance. a "Sauce a la Poulette," always has eggs added, the eggs giving the distinctive name "a la Poulette." Praline— A distinctive Creole sugar cake made of cocoanut and sugar or pecans and sugar. (See recipes "Pralines.") Pralinee— Sugared, or sugar-coated. Piment— Pepper. Pimente— Peppered. Piquante— A sauce of piquant flavor, vinegar or acid predominating, and highly seasoned with pepper. A la Plaque— A "Plaque" Is a flat baking pan or griddle. Articles baked in it are called "a la Plaque," as Pan Bread, or "Pain a la Plaque." Quenelles— Meat, liver, flsh or potatoes chopped and highly seasoned and rolled into 377 balls or boulcttes and boiled and Berved as a garnish. We liave also "Potato Quenelles." Ragout— A rich ste.v of meat or poultry, generally made witii, vegetables, such as mushrooms, green peas, truffles, potatoes, etc. Ratafia — A kind of liqueur or wine cordial. Remoulade— A dressing for salads, some- Tvhat like the Mayonnaise, but differing in this, that the eggs are all har(J-boiled and rubbed in a mortar \\ith mustard, vinegar, minced garlic, etc. Releves— A side dish; a term applied when it is desired to serve another dish beside t.n entree. Rissoles— Minced meat or fish, rolled in thin pastry and fried. Rous — A mixture of flour and butter, or flour and lard, used as a foundation for sauces or as a foundation for stews, salmis, etc. Roti — A roast, Tarte — A pie. Tartelette— A tartlet. Sautsr— To smother and toss meats, fowl, vegetables, etc., over the flre in butter or fat. Savarln— A wine cake. Salmi — A rich stew of venison, duck or other game, cut ud and dressed generally with wine.' ■Salmigondis — A hotch-potch of game, such as venison, etc. Saucissons de Lyons — Bologna Sausaj^e. Salade ' d'Anchois — Anchovy Salad. Souffle — An omelet, pudding or custard, thoroughly beaten and whipjed uo until it becomes so light that when cooked it must be eaten immediately, or else it will fall. Talmouse— A cheese cake. Tartine d'Anchois — Anchovy Tartines; circles of brown bread, spread with Anchovy Paste, yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, choPPt*d flue, also chopped pickles, all arranged in alternate rows. Timbale — A pie cooked in a mold. In "Mac- aroni en Timbale ' the macaroni is cooked tn the cheese head. V inaigrette — A sauce or salad dressing, made of salt , and pepper, vinegar predomi- nating. Vol-au-Vent— A chicken, meat, fish or game pie, baked in a light Puft Paste, and serveJ as an entree. General Order of Service of Meals. The manner in which meals are served is equally important as the coolcing.' As previously remarked, the most elegant viands badly served lose all their savor, and the pleasure of a meal is destroyed, while the sim- plest viands neatly and properly served give an air of distinction and elegance, not to speak of comfort, to even the humblest feast. The spotless white tablecloth, the plainly folded napkins, the shining silverware and glassware, are im- portant factors in good service, and should receive the most minute at- tention from the housekeeper. Never, especially at formal dinings, crimp or fold napkins in fancy shapes; it is inelegant and vulgar. Lay them per- fectly flat and plain, and let every- thing present the most scrupulously clean appearance. In formal din- ings the layer plate should not be less than two inches larger than the service plate, and should not be re- moved until the salad has been served. In giving formal dinners or ban- quets a card corresponding with the name of the guest is placed on the napkin belonging to the seat to which he or she is to be assigned. Formal banquets or dinners, or state and ofiicial banquets all over the world are served according to the French fashion. This fashion di- vides the meal into three distinct parts. Two are served from the kitchen, and the third from the pan- try. The first part Is from the oys- ters on shell to the Coup de Millieu or middle drinks (sherbets, punches, etc.); the second service continues through the roasts to the sweet en- tremets. That which is considered the dessert course is served from the pantry, and includes all ices, cakes, fruits, cheese, etc. A cup of Cafe Noir is served at the close of all dinners or suppers. It is served daily after dinner in all Creole house- holds. Flower decorations on the table should always be in low cut bowls, and of flat designs, so as not to ob- scure the view of any guests. A simple bouquet of flowers , from the home garden, or a bit of greenery, should appear every day on the home table, and will brighten up a meal wonderfully. In formal feasts the corsage bouquets for ladies should not consist of more than six or eight large roses, if these flowers are used. The bouquets are tied with ribbon, and bear the name of the guests. They should be placed on the right side of the plate at the seat the lady is to occupy. A gentleman's bou- tonniere consists of one single rose- bud, if this flower is used. Otherwise of a small "boutonniere" arrange- ment, and this is placed on the nap- kin next to the card bearing his name. If Menus are used, they are placed on each cover. Liqueurs, cordials, cigars, etc., are placed on a separate table, and are served after the ladies have retired to the parlors. These suggestions will, serve for all formal entertainments. The fol- lowing them order and comfort will make the simplest meal a happy and pleasant one. BREAKFAST. Dejeuner. The home breakfast is generally' a modest repast consisting generally of such hors d'oeuvres as Cress, Radishes, etc., with some cereal 378 (served with milk), beefstealc or flsh, with potatoes, and numerous forms of breads or griddle cakes, waffles or muffins. In Creole households fruits are al- ways served first at breakfast, and generally raw. Cereals tor Breakfast, Grits, Hominy, Oatmeal, Cracked Wheat, Cornmeal Mush, Farina, Ce- realine, Wheatena, etc. All these may be servel with cream, milk, milk and sugar, or with gravies. Vegetables- for Breakfast, Radishes, Cress, Sliced Cucumbers, Lettuce, Sliced Raw Tomatoes, Cel- ery, Potatoes in any of the various forms of cooking given. Stewed To- matoes, Fried Sweet Potatoes, are all served at breakfast, the raw veg- etables as hors d'oeuvres. Warm Breakfast Dishes. Broiled Tenderloin, Sirloin, Broiled Chops, Chicken, Ham, Fish, Small Fancy Game, Quail on Toast, ^nipe. Woodcock, Fried Liver and Bacon, Fried Pork, Tenderloin or Chops, Fried Pigs' Feet, Grillades, Fried soft-Shell Crabs, Veal Cutlets Breaded, Sausage, Stewed Tripe, Stewed Kidneys, ■ all kinds Of Hash (turkey, chicken, mutton, veal, beef, cornbeef, or otherwise), all kinds of Meat, Fowl and Fish Croquettes, Cod- fish Balls, Creamed Codfish, Creamed Chicken, Stewed Meats, Eggs in every variety of cooking (such as boiled, fried, scrambled, poached, on toast), Fried Ham and Eggs, Omelets, etc. Breakfast Breads and Cakes. Any of the numberless varieties of Breads and Cakes, besides the Ba- kers' Bread, so generally used in New Orleans, such as Rolls, ' Biscuit, Muffins, Waffles, Corn Cakes, Griddle Cakes, Batter Cakes, Corn Bread, Muffln Bread, Sweet Potato Bread, Fritters, etc. Breakfast Beverages. Coffee (Cafe Noir and Cafe au Lait) Chocolate, Cocoa and Tea (if pre- ferred) may all be served as break- fast beverages. Hors d'Oeuvres for Breakfast, These include Celery, Olives, Rad- ishes, Cress, Pickles, Canapes, Sliced Cucumbers, Sliioed Raw Tomatoes, Lettuce, Raw Oysters (when in sea- son), and in general any hors doeuvres that may be served at dinner. LUNCHEON. Goflter. Perhaps no meal admits of such Infinite variety as' luncheon. Al- most anything may be served for luncheon, from cold left-over meats, flsh, etc., and all hors d'oeuvres and salads to desserts. Tea, coffee, co- coa, chocolate. Iced lemonade, and almost all iced summer drinks, as well as fruits, are served acceptably at luncheon. Hot or cold bread may be served, as also forms of break- fast cakes and syrups. The order of service varies. For instance, fruits may be served at the beginning of the meal, or as a des- sert at the close, and so also witb watermelons and muskmelons. DINNER. Diner. The order of service for dinner va- ries. In simple homes, where gener- ally only two or three courses are served, such as soups, meats and vegetables and dessert, these should be served in their order. The hors d'oeuvres, whether one, two or many, should always be placed on the table before the dinner proper is served. Soups or Gumbos are served first. The Creoles divide dinners into three classes: The dinner of one course, of two courses, and of three courses. The first they have appro- priately named "Ambigu," because it admits of all dishes being brought to the table at the same time, from the soups to the desserts, and dishes are confounded. Among wealthy ■ classes, the "Ambigu" is a dinner served hastily at night, after a thea- tre or opera party, or otherwise, coming in from a soiree, but among the poorer classes the "Ambigu" is made a very pleasant meal. Hors d'oeuvres and such desserts as cakes and fruits are placed on the table 'before the family is seated, and the soup is served as a "Releve," all the other Aishes, from the roasts to the entrees and entremets and entremets sucres and salad, being placed on the table at the same time. Jellies, fruits and cake compensate for the absence of elaborate desserts, and the vegetables anl sauces are few. Prop- erly served, as is done daily in many a Creole home, an "Ambigu" may become an elegant and distinguished repast, though the viands are plain and simple. In dinners of two courses the soup is again the "Releve," and the flsh or meats and all the vegetables, entre- mets and entrees, and also the salad, constitute the first course. Salads, as a rule, should always be served with the roasts. The desserts con- stitute the second course. In dinners of three courses, fol- lowing always the French order of arrangement, which has always been observed in elegant Creole homes, the following is the order of service: First Course — Soup or Gumbo, Hors d'Oeuvres. Second Course — Pish (and with fish are always served potatoes in any 379 form), Releves (where another dish Is desired). Entrees, Coup de Millieu (a middle iced drink), Ro;ls or Roasts, Vegetables, Entremets, Sal- ads, Entremets Sucres. Third Course — Desserts, Compotes, Puddings, Pies, Cakes, Pieces Mon— tees. Ices, Fruits, Petit Fours, Cheese, Coffee. Suitable Dlsbea for tbese Various Courses. The following constitutes the list of suitable dishes for these various Hots d'Oeuvres. Relishes. These inay be either hot or cold, but ordinarily only cold hors d'oeuvres are used, and are passed aS appetizers or relishes between the courses. ^ Cold Hors d'Oeuvres — ^Radishes, Celery, Olives, Cress, Lettuce, Ro- quette. Pickled Onions, Sliced Cucum- bers, Sliced Tomatoes, Pickles, Man- goes, Melons, Anchovies, Sardines, Lyonnaise Sausage (Saucissons Lyon- naise). Bread and Butter, Crackers, Anchovy Sandwiches, Bologna Sau- sage cut and sliced. Cold Ham, Pigs' Feet, a Crawfish Bush (Buissou d'Ecrevisses), a Shrimp Bush (Buis- son de Chevrettes), Boiled Crawfish, River Shrimp on Ice, Oysters on Half Shell, Raw -Oysters, Sliced or Quar- tered Lemon, Salted Almonds, Salted Peanuts, Canapes of Caviar, Ham, Crab, etc. Hot Hors d'Oeuvres — Petits Pates au Jus (or small hot patties of meats, etc.), Boudins Noirs et Blanos (Boudin Sausages, white and black). Rissoles, Sausages with or without Truffles, Rognons a. la Brochette or Broiled Kidneys, Pigs' Feet, BouchSes d'Huitres or Oyster Patties, Fried Brains (whether of mutton or veal). Calves' Feet, Oxtail with Vinegar or Mustard Sauce. Entrees. Entrges are side dishes, and are served between the courses, imme- diately following the flsh, and always preceding the roast. Entrees- com- prise all Stews, Ragoflts, Salmis, Matelotes, Vol-au-Vents, Cutlets, Sweetbreads, Rissoles, Compotes of Meats, Fowl or Pish, Filets of Veal or Beef Saute, etc.; all Daubes, whether of Meat, Fowl or Pigeons; Poulet au Biz, Poulet Saute aux Champignons ou aux Petits Pois. Relev6s. Releves are side dishes added to a course when it is desired to serve another dish. They comprise Filets of Beef or Veal, Boiled Meats served with garnish, Brochettes of Kidneys, Liver etc.; Capons and Poulardes cooked with Rice, Poulet au Riz, pates de Foles Gras, Loin of Veal, Knuckle of Veal, Sirloin Steak, etc.; Soft-Shell Crabs, Stuffed Crabs, etc. Ejutremets. These are of two kinds, Vegetable Entremets and Sweet Entremets. The former comprise all vegetables, and one or two are always served with an entrge, and the remainder are brought on with the roasts. Pota- toes are always served with flsh, and are good with all meats. With fowls they are best mashed. Sweet potaoes 'are served with all roasts, especially Roast Pork. Onions, Squash, Cucum- bers, Asparagus, Eggplants are ex- cellent with roast meats. Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, Pumpkin, Greens, Cabbage, are good with boiled meats. Corn, Green Peas, Beets, Peas, Beans, may be served with either boiled or roast meats. Mashed Turnips are very appropriate to Roast Duck, Roast Pork and Mutton, and boiled meats, such as Boiled Mutten. To- matoes and Green Peppers are served with every kind of meats. Green Peas are especially nice served with Young Spring Lamb, Sweetbreads, Filets of ' Veal or Beef, , Spring Chicken, etc. •Spinach is a very proper accompani- ment to veal. Lemons cut into dice inay be served with all fowls and fish. STveet Entremets. These comprise all kinds of Fritters or Beignets, various sweet Omelets, and Fruits cooked in divers man- ners. (See chapter on Sweet Entre- mets.) Fritters, etc., are served in the middle of the course, often just before the Coup de Millieu, with the entrees. Sweet Entremets such as Omelette Souffle, Rhum Omelette, etc., always precele the dessert, being served immediately after the roasts. Roasts. These comprise all manner of Boast Meats, Poultry, Game, etc. The Sal- ads are always brought to the table and served with the Roasts. Desserts. I These comprise all manner of Com- potes, Pies, Puddings, Cakes, Jellies and Marmalades, Preserves, Fruits, Ices, Petits Fours, Bonbons etc. Cheese and Nuts are brought to the table with the Desserts. Coffee is served as a finale to all dinners, banquets and supper,^. Important. After having analyzed the above forms 'of service and the accompani- ments of the various courses, a sen- sible woman will make her own de- ductions, remembering always that a. good soup, a roast or entree, with one or two vegetables and a salad, and a simple dessert, is enough for any family, even when guests are 380 expected. A well-served, simple din- ner is far more satisfying to the average person than the most elabo- rate banquet. Above all devote yonr' taste and Ingrenuity to devising appetizing dislies for your own loved ones at home. <'To Make Home Happy"^ tlii^ is the object of the Picayune Creole Cook Book. How to Utilize Left-Over Food. Never throw away scraps of bread or broken crusts or stale bread. Take all the broken pieces and brown them in the stove, and roll them on the bread board till grated fine, and sift through a coarse sieve. Again roll the crumbs that remain in the sieve, and sift as before. Put them all Into a jar and cover, and keep them for use- in cooking. A box of bread crumbs for dishes prepared "au Gra- tin" is indispensable in a kitchen. Licft-over stale bread is also used' In making Bread Puddings, Bread Muffins, Queen Pudding etc. Use all broken pieces of cakes In making puddings, such as Banana Souffle, and all Cake Puddings. All cold left-over mashed potatoes may be used for making Croquettes or Puffs or Quenelles of Potatoes. Cold boiled potatoes left over may be utilized in preparing Lyonnaise Pota- toes or French Fried Potatoes. Left-over Greens may be used in making Salads.' Left-over fish and chicken may be used in making Fish or Chicken Salad a, la Mayonnaise. Left-over meat, whether veal, mut- ton or beef, may be used in making Hash Croquettes of Boulettes. Save all fat drippings and bits of fat meat and bacon skin. The former are excellent for frying fritters and doughnuts and pancakes; the latter for greasing the griddle for corn cakes, etc. Keep all coarse, rough ends of beefsteak or sirloin, or the ends of tenderloin steaks. They make ex- cellent stews or croquettes of meat balls. The remains of yesterday's roast beef or mutton may be utilized in croquettes for breakfast, or cecils or cold meat for luncheon. Remains of turkey or chicken or rabbit may be used in making Gum- bos. Save all left-over rice for Riz au Lait, griddle cakes, Galas, Jambalaya, etc. All left-over cold boiled meat from soup may be used for Beef Hash. "When you have finished with the ham bone, do not throw it away, but after chipping all the meat off for "Frizzled Ham," boil the bone with cabbage or turnip or other vege- table greens, or with red or white beans or lentils. It gives a flavor to these dishes that they will not otherwise have. Keep all the green parts of the Celery tips that do not make a beau- tiful decoration at the table when celery is served and use for flavoring for soups, salads, stews, etc. Turnips and beans left over from yesterday may be made' into a puree for dinner next day. Keep all pieces of Plain or Puft Paste that are trimmed from the pies or patties. Roll them over again, cut into pretty squares, and serve at supper with preserves spread over them. Or simply put in the ice box and use the next day in making Rissoles with left-over meat. When making Gold Cake, save the whites of eggs for Silver Cake. Or they may be used for making Angel Cake, Apple Snow, and all other forms of desserts in which Meringues are called for. Finally, do not waste anything in the kitchen. Our grandmothers scrup- ulously saved every piece of bone or fat apd these were utilized in mak- ing soft soap. The careful housekeeper will man- age to keep out of debt and set a good table, with much variety, on a small allowance, by faithfully sav- ing and utilizing the left-overs. Invalid Cookery. It has not been thought necessary to add a chapter on "Invalid Cook- ery" in this book, as all Creoles know how to prepare dainty articles of diet for the sick. Invalid cookery, moreover, does not differ much from the general household codkery, and all recipes given in this book for Bouillons, Oyster Soups, delicate Purges, Chicken Broth, Toasts, Broiled Chicken and Birds, Broiled Tenderloin Steak, delicate Custards, such as Milk Custards, Riz au Lait, Blanc Manger, Jellies, Gruels, Por- ridge, Egg Toasts, Fjuit Wlaters, Mint Julips, Cobblers, Egg Nogg, Blackberry Cordials, etc:; delicate ways of serving oranges and other fruits — in fact, almost anything that may be ordered by a physician, from a Beef Broth or Oyster Soup to Milk Toast or Charlotte Russe may be found in the Picayune's Creole Cook Book. Reference has only to be made to the index, and with a slight re- duction of quantity in all propor- tions, say about one-fourth, for a dish intended for one person, where Custards, etc., are indicated, the dish may be prepared. The serving is the most Important point after cooking. Never crowd a dish intended for an invalid. Spread a dainty napkin on the sal- ver. Arrange the food in a most ap- petizing way, lay a rosebud or a flower fresh from the garden on the 381 salver, and bring in the dainty, tempting- morsel with a happy, cheery smile, though your heart may be sinking. Th-e dish, in nine oases out of ten, will not fail to please, white your sunny smile will encourage the patient, and make him or her feel that recovery is certain. Then the battle is half won. KITCHEN HINTS. The most Important essential in regard to the economy and manage- ment of the kitchen is cleanliness — - cleanliness in cooking, cleanliness in the keeping of the kitchen, from the clean floor to the pots and pans, and absolute cleanliness of person. It is to be feared that while many pay great attention to the two former requisites, the latter Is too often neglected. The slovenly, untidy, un- kempt cook has no place in a well- regulated kitchen, where, from earli- est Creole days, the clean, tidy, old negresse, with neat guinea blue dress, white kerchief and bandana tignon, pots and pans washed so clean in- side that you might pass your white gloved hand over them without a trace of soot or dirt attaching itself; brightly polished stove, and dish towels clean and spotless, is among the pleasant traditions that have, with modifications to times and events as regards domestic service, been accepted as a foundation rule in kitchen management and govern- ment. The hands of a cook should be thor- oughly washed before touching or handling anything that pertains in the least to the preparation of any dish. Never allow a number of dish- pans, basins and piles of plates, spoons and other utensils to accu- mulate on the kitchen table or sink while you are engaged in cooking a meal. Do not let pans of dirty dish water, filled with kitchen refuse and grease so thick that it may be skimmed off, stand upon your kitchen table. By a little Intelligent and careful management, a little care in cleansing and putting away a pan, dish or cup the moment that you have finished using it, a great deal of confusion and extra work may be avoided. When you finish with your rolling pin, flour pan, biscuit or paste board, go to the kitchen sink at once wash them off before the flour be- comes too thick and hard to remove, and wipe dry and put them away in their proper places till wanted again. When you finish with your sauce- pans, gravy kettles, roasting pans, etc., fill them at once with hot water, let them stand a minute or so on the stove; then wash immediately, and dry thoroughly. Set them before the fire another minute or so, so that the interiors may be thoroughly dried before putting them away, and then put these also in' their proper places. Never allow a dirty pot to remain over from one day to the next, cov- ering it out of sight till it is again wanted. Such slovenly methods can- not be too strongly condemned. Don't be afraid of not water. Have your reservoir constantly filled, and your kettle always steaming when cooking. Use hot water freely in washing up all kitchen utensils, in which grease must accumulate while cooking, and all dirty, greasy dishes. Wash your cooking utensils, iron and agateware, and tin, inside and out, with hot water and soap; then rinse thoroughly in hot water, wipe them dry with a dry,clean towel. Never, on any account, wipe a pot with a soapy (5r a greasy dish cloth. Keep a cake of good kitchen soap in your kitchen, and use it freely in the cleansing of all pots or tins that require scouring. To remove the odor of onions from fish kettles and saucepans, put some wood ashes or soda in them, let stand on the stove a few minutes, till they boil, and wash in hot suds and rinse well. In washing up the dishes, begin with the glasses. Wash these in clean water, using a few drops of ammonia, and you will be surprised what a beautiful clear cut-glass look will be imparted to even the cheapest glassware. Dry with a clean towel and rub lightly inside and out with a pi'ece of paper. A beautiful, clear polish will thus be given. Nothing is so disgusting as a dingy glass. Let your crystal and glassware be as clear as a mirror. Wash the cups and saucers next, and rinse and dry. Never let your dishes "drip," as is frequently done in many kitchens. Dishes that have been placed in a sink or pan to "drip" before being dried are always dis- agreeable to the touch, no matter how clean you may have washed them. An experienced housekeeper can tell in a moment, simply by touching a dish, whether it has been allowed to drip or was dried as soon as washed. Don't be afraid of using soap, but remember, too, to rinse thoroughly after using. Cut bar soap into pieces, and keep in a dry place. Use one piece at a time, and thus avoid waste. Wash greasy plates, dishes etc., with cleap hot water and soap. Rinse thoroughly in clean hot water, and dry immediately on a cleS.n, dry towel.' Wash silverware in clean hot wa- ter. Never put your forks and spoons into greasy, dirty water, in which you have already washed the dishes. Have a clean, fresh supply of hot ■ni-ater. Wash well, using soap freely where necessary, and then rinse In 382 ■ clean, hot water. A little salt will remove all stains from silver. Apply with a dry cloth. Dry silverware im- mediately after washing on a clean, dry towel. Never throw white-handled Ivory knives into water. Wash the steel part in hot water. To remove stains and also to polish, rub with a little dry wood ashes or a small quantity of baking powder, mixed with a little briokdust. Have a sufficient quan- tity of dish towels. It pays In the long run, not only in kitchen econ- omy, but in the cleanliness of the kitchen and dining-room and the consequent good health of the fam- ily. Have a set of towels for the , glassware, and mark these "Glass." In like manner for the cups and saucers and plates. Mark kitchen use, for pots and pans, and never use these on any account in wash- • Ing or drying dishes intended for table use. When you have finished washing the glassware, dishes, and pots and pans, wash the towels well in sep- arate waters, using hot water and soap, and then rinse thoroughly in hot water first, and then in cold or tepid water. On no account, unless in rainy weather, hang ithem around the kitchen stove to dry, but hang them out in the fresh, open air, where the sun can shine upon them, and when they are thoroughly dry fold and put them aw^ay for use just as carefully as you would your toilet towels. In this way you will keep your kitchen towels clean, sweet and fresh. Water that passes through zinc- lined iron pipes should never be used for cooking or drinking purposes, and water boiled in galvanized iron pots should never be used in cooking, as it becomes poisonous. Keep a good supply of fresh hot water in your kettles while cooking, and if taken from pipes always use that taken from hot water pipes. Never use water that has stood in a lead pipe over night for any purposes, es- pecially a stone reservoir. There is art even in, boiling water, and fresh- ly-boiled water should always be used in cooking. When using canned goods, never allow vegetables, fish or fruits to stand in the can when once the can is opened. Do not keep vinegar or yeast In any but glass Jars or bottles. Their acid attacks the glaze in stone crooks and jars, and becomes poisonous. Never let meat stand in brown pa- per. "It will absorb the taste of the paper. Remember that salt will curdle new milk. Hence, In all dishes where new milk is used, add the salt after the dish is prepared. Provide your kitchen with a clock. This is almost imperative. And, in addition to the regular supplies of pots which come with every stove, have a double kettle for cooking custards, grains, etc.; a double wire broiler, a wire toaster, a tin skim- mer, a wooden spoon for beating dakes, a meat board, a biscuit board, a dozen patty pans and tartlet pans, a set of tin measures, two dish pans, one for washing the dishes, the other to rinse them in; a set of jelly cake tins, three or four pie pans, a can opener, a chopping knife, a wooden chopping bowl, two dippers, two fun- nels, one for sw^eets, and one for sour liquids; a lemon squeezer, a whisk brush for greasing griddles, a large flour box, a dredging- box, a large-sized pepper box, a spice box in which you can put smaller spice boxes, a potato masher, a, steamer, several kitchen knives, an apple corer, a set of tin pans and basins, and four or five stone jars. Do not buy low-priced earthenware, that will soon break; it pays in the end to get strong stoneware, costing a few cents more, for it will last' for a lifetime. All these conveniences purchased by the young housekeeper when set- ting out in life will last for years, with, careful management, and will be found economical investments, as regards time, money and convenience, and kitchen comfort. Remember to always keep your good temper In the kitchen. There is nothing like a bright, cheery, sun- ny-tempered housekeeper or cook. If you employ servants, never lose your temper In dealing with them. You will at once forfeit their re- spect. A surly, cross, ill-tempered, fault-finding mistress will make a cross, ill-tempered dissatisfied serv- ant. Let the Golden Rule be your guide in dealing with your servants, "Do unto others as you would have others do unto you." CHAPTER XLIX. VARIETIES OF SEASONABLE FOODS FOUND IN THE NEW ORLEANS MARKET DURING THE YEAR. How often is the complaint lieard from the busy, tired housekeeper: "My husband and . children are so tired of eating the same things, day in and day out; I really do not know what to give them for a change in diet!" This is a complaint that should never be heard in the latitude of New Orleans, where nature is so pro- lific; where at all seasons of the year some dainty bit of game, poultry or meat is to be had at wonderfully low pricesi whete dur rivers and lakes are stocked with the finest fish from January to December, and where our spring and autumn crops of vege- tables and fruits, the former running all through the summer, the latter to the verge of the succeeding spring, make it possible for even the poor- ■ est family to enjoy Variety and del- icacy of viands at each daily meal. The Creoles have an old'adage that "Nature itself tells us what to eat," in the various vegetables and fruits of each season, and in the varieties of fish and flesh meat that are par- ticularly adapted to each season. As the months , wane, and a new sea- son dawns, the good Creole house- keeper, even of unlimited means, far from trusting entirely to servants to do the marketing, makes it her ■duty to take a leisurely stroll. through the French Market, where all the first fruits, vegetables, fish and game of the season are to be found, and she takes her own mental notes, and knows just what to order -when her • cook comes for the daily interview. Again, many of the most famous housekeepers do their own marketing entirely, and it is not an uncommon thing- to see Madame or Mademoiselle going to market every morning, followed by some faithful old domestic who may still adhere to the fortunes of the family. ' For the conyenience of housekeep- . «rs generally,, however, the Picayune will close this Creole Cook Book by giving for each month in the year the varieties of seasonable foods to ■be found in our latitude. By a sim- ple daily reference to this list, the, housewife .may at once make her, selections for the daily menu. With slight modifications incident to cli- mate and productions, the list may b«» useful in any latitude. A^ain. to facilitate the choice of the house- keeper as to viands, a daily menu is given for one week, as also for great festivals, such as Christmas, New Year's, Easter and Thanksgiving Days Ttto sets of tbese menus are given. The one Is Intended for tainilies fvko are not obligred to ex- ercise rigid economy in household management; the other for families of limited means, shofring hovr it is quite possihle for a family of six to live comfortably on a dollar a day, and at the same time enjoy as pleas- ing a' variety, in a vray, as wealth- ier people* These classifications will enable even the most inexperienced house- keeper, whether rich or poor, to make her own deductions in a clear' and comprehensive manner, with benefit to herself and family. Seasonable Foods From January to December. JANUARY. Meats. Des Viandes. Beef, Mutton, Pork, -Damb. Poultry. De la Volaille. Turkey, Chicken, Capons, Geese, Domestic Ducks, Pigeons, Guinea Fowl. Game. < Gibier. All Game peculiar to January. Canvasback Ducks, Mallard Ducks, Squab, Becassine or Snipe, Becasse or Woodcock, Partridge, Quail, Venison, and a variety of small birds. Rabbit, Hare, Squirrel and Poule d'BaU. Fish. Poisson.. Red Fish, Red Snapper, Flounder, Sheeilshead, ' Spanish Maclcerel, Pom- pano. Grouper, Green Trout, Elver Trout, Speckled Trout, Croakers, Bluefish, , Sacalait, , Patassas, Greien Turtle, Diamond Back Terrapin, 384 Frogs, Oysters, Hard-Shell Crab, Soft-Shell Crab, Ijake Shrimp, River Shrimp, Crawfish. Vesetables. Des Legumes. Fresh Vegetables may be had as follows: Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Chervil, Celery, Cress, Corn Salad, Cauliflower, Endive or Chicoree, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Par- sley, Parsnips, Radish, Roquette for salad. Mustard for salad. Turnips, Leeks and Rutabaga. These are sown from August to December in the open ground, and are perfectly hardy in ordinary win- ters, such as we are accustomed to in Louisiana. Cucumber grown under glass, and sown in the beginning of October ripens about Christmas time, and continues to supply the home market, as well as the demands from Northern points, until about the end of April, when our open-ground Cu- cumbers begin to ripen and appear In the market. Fruits. Des Fruits. Fresh fruits: Bananas, Pears, Ap- ples, Oranges, Grapes, Lemons, Pine- apples, Cherries, Cranberries. FEBRUARY. Meats. Des Viandes. Beef, Mutton, Pork, Lamb. Poultry. De la Volaille. Turkey, Capons, Chickens, Guinea Fowl, Geese, Domestic Ducks and pigeons. Game. Gibier. Canvasback Ducks, Mallard Ducks, Teal Duck, Squab, Becassine or Snipe, Becasse or "Woodcock, Partridge, Quail, "Wild Turkey, "Wild Geese, Rab- bit, Hare, Squirrel, Poule d'Eau, "Venison. Fish. Polsson. Red Fish, Red Snapper, Flounder, Spanish Mackerel, Sheepshead, Green Trout, Speckled Trout, Croakers, Blueflsh, Green Turtle, Diamond- Back Terrapin, Frogs, Oysters, Hard- Shell Crab, Soft-Shell Crab, Lake Shrimp, River Shrimp, Crawfish. Vegetables. Des Legumes. Beets, Carrots, Cabbage, Chervil, Celery, Cress, Cornsalad, Cauliflower, Endive or Chicoree, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, Radish, Roquette, Mustard, Turnips, Leeks, Rutabaga. Fruits. Des Fruits. Bananas Pears, Apples, Oranges, Grapes, Lemons, Pineapples, Cran- berries. MARCH. Meats. Des Viandes. Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork. poultry. De la Volaille. Turkeys, Ducks and Pigeons (do- mestic). Geese, Chickens, Capons, Young Pullets. Game. Gibier. All the game common to February. Fish. Poisson. The first Pompano of the season used to appear in March. It was much sought after. Of late years it has become so abundant that it is now shipped during every month of the 'year to every part of the Union. In February we have also Redfish, Red Snapper, Spanish Mackerel, Floun- ders, Trout, Croakers, Blueflsh, Grou- per, Saccalait, Patassas, Sheepshead, Perch, Hard-Shell Crab, Soft-Shell Crab, Oysters, Green Turtle, Terra- pin, Lake and River Shrimp, Craw- fish. Vegretables. Des Legumes. AU the above-mentioned Vegetables for February are to be found in the market in March, with the addition of Green Peas. The large Marrow- fat Green Peas are hardy, and are planted from October to the end of March, while the little French Pea (Petit Pols) is more subject to dam- age from freeze, and is planted dur- ing January, and until April, , ripen- ing a crop in from forty to sixty days, according to weather and cul- tivation. The vegetables for the month stand as follows: New Green Peas, Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Chervil, Celery, Cress, Cornsalad, Cauliflower, En- dive, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, Roquette, Mus- tard, Turnips, Leeks, Rutabaga. Fruits. Des Fruits. The first Strawberries appear early in March, and have been ripened at the end of February, when the blos- som escapes the freezes that begin regularly In February. Oranges,. 385 Bananas, Pineapples, etc., are plenti- ful. APRIL. Meats. Des "Viandes. Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, Lamb, Spring Lamb. (This is Lamb born during the winter and reared under shelter, and fed almost entirely on milk. It is killed in the spring, gen- erally at Easter time, and is a regu- lar accompaniment to the Creole Eas- ter dinner. It Is a great delicacy, but Lamb that is not over six months old makes good eating.) Poultry. De la Volaille. Chicken, Young Guinea Fowl, Green Geese, Young Ducks, Capons. Fish. Polsson. Pompano, Spanish Mackerel, Red Snapper, Redfish, Blueflsh, Grouper, Sea Trout, Brook Trout, Croakers, Perch, Sacalait, Patassas, Green Tur- tle, Progs' Legs, Hard- Shell Crab, Soft-Shell Crab, Poule d'Eau. Oysters begin to grow milky In the latter part of April, when kept stand- ing for any length of time, and are, consequently, not eaten by the Cre- oles, unless they are at the lakeside, where the toothsome bivalve is taken directly frOm the waters. Prom April till September, following the old adage that Oysters are good in every mouth In which an "B." occurs, the Oysters will disappear from this list of seasonable flsh. Nevertheless, In nearly all the large restaurants of New Orleans they are served. Game, Gibier. Mallard Ducks, Canvasback Ducks, Spring Teal Ducks, Squabs, Snipe, Woodcock, Partridge. Vegetables. Des Legumes. This is a most interesting month in the New Orleans markets. We have all the staple articles from the open ground, but. besides Green (sweet) Peppers, Tomatoes and Eggplants, sown in November, and kept, under glass until late in March, make their, appearance in the market. The gen- eral crop of Green Peas is now in the market, and within the range of everybody's purse. New Potatoes are quite plentiful. Snap Beans are grad- ually getting cheaper, and thousands of bushel boxes go by express every day to Northern points. Early Corn and Artichokes, from the Lower Coast of Louisiana, arrive with every boat. The market stands: New Potatoes, New Green Peas, Early Corn, Sweet Green Peppers, New Tomatoes, Egg- plants, Hot Peppers, Snap Beans, and all the vegetables mentioned' in the list for March. (See March Vege- tables. Fruits. Des Pruits. The Japan Plum, also called the Medlar, or Loquet, and in familiar 'Creole Mespilus, ripens in the be- ginning of April, while the Mariana Plum comes in towards the 15th of April, if the weather is favorable. Strawberries are now plentiful and cheap. Dewberries and Blackber- 'ries are brought in by the negroes in ■large quantities, and the cry fills the streets. We have also a continued abundance of Apples, Oranges, Ba- nanas, Pineapples, etc. MAY. Meats. Des Viandes. Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork.' ' Poultry. ' De la Volaille. Spring Chickens, Young Ducks, Chickens, Capons, Green Geese, Young Turkeys (Dindonneau, considered a great delicacy). Fish. Poisson. The same as for the month of April. Vegetables. Des Legumes. During the month of May the New Orleans markets are fairly glutted With Snap Beans, Green Peas, Peas, Lentils, Cucumbers, Young Onions, Potatoes, etc. Tomatoes and Egg- -plants that have ripened in the open ground fill the stalls. Cabbage, which does not resist much heat or drought, grows scarce, as also celery. Other- wise the vegetables continue in abundance, the same as found in the list for March. (See March Vege- tables). Young Squash makes Its appear- &,nce this month, and is plentiful. The first Muskmelons arrive in New Or- leans from the parishes and gardens around the city towards the middle bt May, and Watermelons come in fine and tempting at the close of May, Carloads of Creole Onions and New Potatoes are shipped North. Game. Gibier. The game laws now begin to be enforced, and, with the exception of 'Sand Snipe and Reed Birds, we have little game until the 1st of Septem- ber, when the hunting season opens. 386 Frnlts. Des Fruits. The first peaches ripen together with the large-fruited Plums. In a. ■week or so these fruits overrun the market. Figs begin to ripen towards the. end of the month, providing, the weather was warm during April. Or- anges, Bananas, Pineapples, etc., con- tinue plentiful. JUNE. Meats. Des Viandes. Beef, Veal, Mutton, X aux Confitures. Salade a -la- Creole. Batter Cakes, Louisiana. Syrup. Fresh Butter. Cafe, au Lait. DINNER. Oysters on Half Shell. Spanish Olives. Celery. Pickles. Salted Almonds. Green Turtle Soup,- Croutons. Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Sauce a la Maitre d'HoteL Julienne Potatoes. Lamb Cutlets Breaded, Sauce Soubise. Green Peas. Sweetbreads a la Creole. Ponche a la Romaine. Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Baked Yams. Cauliflower a^u Gratia. Asparagus a la Maitre d'Hotel, Lettuce, Salad Dressing.- Broiled Snipe on Toast. Pouding a la Reine, Wine Sauce. Mince Pie, Cocoanut Custard Pie. Biscuit Glace. Petits Pours. Fruits. Nuta Raisins. Cheese. Toasted Crackers. Cafe Noir! 392 SUPPER. Cold Turkey, Currant Jelly. Celery Salad. French Rolls. Butter. Assorted Cakes. Fruit. Nuts. Tea. A More E^cononiical Tie-w Year's Menu. BREAKFAST. Sliced lOranses. Oatmeal and Cream. Broiled Spring Chicken. Julienne Potatoes. Radishes. Celery. Egg Muffins. Fresh Butter. Louisiana Syrvp. Cafe au Lait. DINNER. Consomme. Radishes. Celery. Olives. • Pickles. Boiled Sheepshead, Cream Sauce. Mashed Potatoes. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. Salmi of Wild Duck.