•'t:— »r"':-'"i'lili!nrj ;.•:■-■ m \ 1 157 T5V\47+ Date Due MAY L 7 1963 m R ^ ^^=M^ d-1 B f\i B j ' 3/? r ^G^^^^-^'^TOMH^^ -U; ^^'LmMAFrj-xrr. ^AfV ) MA¥i^49?frf— JgU>^49^^ ^ PniNTKO IN U. «. M. toll iii iif ii nm iii iHIK >«T CAT. NO. 23211 ^CORMEU. UNIVERSTTY UBRAftV ^ IIIIIIBUL 3 1924 096 448 935 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924096448935 HISTORY —OF— TIOGA COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA. EMBRACING ITS TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES ; INDIANS AND WHITE EXPLORERS; BEGINNING AND ORGANIZATION; PIONEERS AND EARLY SETTLEMENT; EARLY COURTS AND CASES; INTERNAL IMPROVE- MENTS; INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT; COAL MINES AND MINING; PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND OFFICIALS ; LEGAL AND MEDICAL PRO- FESSIONS ; MILITARY HISTORY; LITERATURE; SKETCHES OF BOROUGHS, TOWNSHIPS AND VILLAGES; MATERIAL, SOCIAL, EDUCATIONAL AND RELIGIOUS PROGRESS; BIOGRAPHIES AND PORTRAITS OF PIONEERS AND REPRESENTATIVE CITIZENS, ETC., ETC., ETC. ILLXJSXR.jPs.TEID. R. C. BROWN & CO. 1807. r ••■;. t ,:■ e;^'. .■("■ PRESS OF harrisburg publishing company Harrisburg, Pennsylvania -5-/] PREKACB. ORE than one hundred years have passed away since the first white settlers built their cabins along the Cowanesque and Tioga rivers and commenced laying the comer-stone of American civiliza- tion within the confines of what is now Tioga county. The Indian occupants had been pushed back farther into the wilderness by the advancing tide of progress, and in their place came the hardy, reso- lute, intelligent pioneers whose descendants now occupy the land. Several genera- tions have come and gone since these events occurred, and the historian of to-day finds a difiicult task to unravel the story and harmonize the many conflicting ac- counts that tradition has handed down from one generation to another. In writing a history of Tioga county it has been our aim to preserve, as far as possible, a chronological order. Its topographical and geological features come first, followed by a sketch of the Indians whose numerous camping sites, paths and villages prove that "The Land of Tioga" was a favorite dwelling place and hunting ground. The (.'aucasian race came next, holding aloft the ti)nh of civili- zation — the founders of communities in which the church and the school followed in the wake of the cabin home. With the gradual settlement of the country came the erection of the county, the establishment of a county seat, civil organization and courts of justice. The early constriiction of roads, the improvement of water- ways and the building of railroads furnished transportation for the product of the farm, the mill and the mine, thus keeping pace with the industrial development of the country. The official history of the county has been carefully compiled, and the names of her citizens who have filled public office in the Nation, the State and the county have thus been preserved. The legal and medical professions; the pioneer fathers who served in the Revolution and War of 1812; a roster of Tioga's sons who went out to defend the flag during the dark days of civil strife; the "Lit- erature of Tioga," and the creation and growth of townships, boroughs and vil- lages all find appropriate mention in the pages of this work. The labor involved in this undertaking required the examination of state, county, borougli and township records; the careful perusal of books, pamphlets, newspaper files, old family documents, deeds and letters, and the personal inter- viewing of local authorities in every part of the county. To John F. Meginness, Esq., of Williamsport, the veteran historian of the West Branch valley, was in- trusted the first twenty-two chapters of the book, and he spent over a year in their compiliition. The remaining thirty-six chapters embraced in tlie general history, were compiled by ^fr. John Meagher, an experienced and pains-taking w^riter, with the exception of Chapter XLTV. contributed by Rev. David Craft, of Law- rcneeville. The chapter on "Coal ifincs and ^fining" wn-: also written by Ifr. Meagher, and the whole work was compared, revised and o smaller coal patches. These synclinal mountains are separated from each other by broad anticlinal valleys of Devonian rocks. Culture is confined to these valleys, and the villages and towns are situated in them; while the steep mountain slopes and broad tops are covered with forest, and often with continuous sheets of angular blocks of the conglomerate, the edge of which forms continuous lines of vertical cliiis from 50 to 100 feet high, gashed with dark chasms. Three such mountain ranges penetrate into, and two of them pass through, the county about north sixty degrees east, and a fourth just touches its southeast corner. "The southwest corner of the county is part of the general Potter-Lycoming Alle- gheny mountain plateau, cut through to its base by the deep, dark gorge, or canon, of Pine creek, and over this spread the townships of Elk, Morris and Gaines. The first and principal mountain range is merely a projection of this plateau, north sixty degrees east, through Morris, Liberty, Bloss and Ward, ending roundly in Armenia township, Bradford county. The range is drained southwestwardly along its center line — representing the axis of the synclinal, or deepest part of the trough — by the Second Fork (Babb's creek) of Pine creek; and the extraordinary spectacle is here exhibited of several large streams from the Wellsboro valley flowing towards the north fall of the mountain, entering it and uniting with the main stream along its middle line." **** ********** "This topographical phenomenon is repeated in the next mountain range to the north, and is an example on a small scale of a law much more grandly illustrated by the rivers of the State of Ohio, which flow into the Ohio river above and below Wheeling, West Virginia. "The eastern end of this first mountain range". * * * «^g ^ ^^^^ p^^^j basin drained by the Tioga river, which breaks out from a gap in the north wall near Blossburg, and flows due north into the State of New York. The run of the Bloss- burg coal basin — in Bloss, Ward, Armenia and Union townships — is the edge of the cup of the conglomerate, forming an unbroken ellipse of cliffs, from which the spec- tator looks down a thousand feet upon the broad valleys of Mansfield and Wellsboro to the northwest; over the open rolling county of Bradford county to the north and east; and into the narrower valley of the Lycoming, separating the Blossburg from the Towanda mountain. "The second mountain range" * * * "is a projection from the Potter coimty plateau, north seventy degrees east, through Shippen, Middlebury and Tioga townships, in which last it ends as boldly as the Blossburg range ends in Armenia township. Through its western mass Pine creek and its waters cut canons nearly 1,000 feet deep. In the middle of its course the mountain receives from the Wells- boro valley on the south, and Chatham-Farmington valley on the north, several large streams which approach, enter and unite within and flow along the center line of the mountain in a long canon, splitting the mountain lengthwise into two. Further east the Tioga river cuts square through the mountain, isolating its eastern end. Steep slopes of sand rock form the rim of the flat top of the mountain, and the summit line TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATUBE8. 19 of the canon on both sides. Small patches of the lowest coal bed have been left along the summit, but all other traces of the coal formation have been swept away, except in Gaines township. "The third mountain range passes through the northwest comer of the county — Brookfield and Deerfield townships — and from it descend the branches of Cowau- esque river, which flows in a pretty straight line about north seventy-five degrees east for fifteen miles, at its foot. No coal measures are left upon this mountain range, and the conglomerate becoming comparatively fine-grained and thin-bedded, does not furnish its top with the same remarkable cliffs. To this enfeebled condition of the conglomerate is no doubt due the erosion of the overlying coal measures." * * "Descending from any part of the rim of cliffs at the top of either of the three ranges of mountains in Tioga county, the geologist climbs down a steep slope over the nearly horizontal edges of always one and the same system of rock formations. The surface geology of Tioga county is, therefore, monotonously simple to an extra- ordinary degree." *♦******•*»* "In the Blossburg basin there remain several hundred feet of the lower coal measures holding several valuable beds. And this exception to the universal destruo- tion is due to the fact that, around Blossburg, the trough which extends for a hun- dred miles through Bradford, Tioga and Lycoming counties, and is traceable still further to the northeast and to the southwest, is exceptionally deep in thi.-; part of its course, the coal in the bottom of it having been somewhat protected Ijy steeper dips than usual on the sides, and by a somewhat greater breadth of bottom. Whurevui- this and the other parallel troughs are flat and shallow the toiil beds, wanting this protection, have been gradually washed away. But if in past ages the mountain.s have been several thousand feet higher than they are now, so also have been the valleys. In fact the valleys have suffered more from erosion than the mountains." * * * "Originally they were higher than the mountains In spite of the sin- gularity of this assertion it is strictly true, and any inliabitant of Tioga county can vorify the fact by his own observation." ANTICLINALS AND SYNCLINALS. "It is only necessary to notice that, throughout Tioga county, all the rocks of every kind, and in every place, dip away from the middle lines of the valleys towards, into and under the mountains. The strata lie flat along the center lines of the valleys, and also lie flat in the middle of each mountain range. But on the north facu of a mountain they dip south, and on the south face they dip north, in all cases. There is even a very slight, almost imperceptible, dip at the end of each mountain into the mountain. The rule is absolutely universal." *♦•••* "In the valley of the Cowanesque, the rocks seen along the river dip south towards Tioga and go under the mountain at Crooked creek; and they dip nortli towards Lawrenceville and go under the mountain at Osceola and Elkland. So again around Canton, the rocks may be seen dipping gently northwest into and under tlie Blossburg mountain, and also southeast into and under the Towanda mountain. "The rule is, then, that the valleys are arches or nnticlinals, and the mountains are all troughs, basins or synclinals." 20 HISTOBY OF TIOGA COUNTY. THE BLOSSBUEG MOUNTAIN BASIN. "The Blossburg mountain basin lies between the Towanda anticlinal valley on the south, and the Mansfield and Wellsboro anticlinal valley on the north. The mountain mass is called by people in Bradford county the Armenia mountains. In Liberty township, Tioga county, it has received the more unpretentious name of Brier Hill. "The north flank of this range enters Tioga county at its southwest corner; crosses Cedar creek one or two miles below the old lumber camps of S. X. Billings, in Elk township; Pine creek, towards the northwest corner of Morris township; Stony Fork, about two miles south of Stony Fork postoffice; Wilson creek, about half a mile below its forks, in Delmar township; the Corning, Cowanesque and Antrim railroad, near the north line of Duncan township, and enters Covington township about a mile south of Cherry Flats. It crosses the Tioga river about two miles above Covington borough, entei-ing Sullivan township at its southwest corner. It enters Bradford county at the southwest corner of Columbia township, keeping very nearly on the line between Armenia and Columbia. It then turns south, and keeps along the line between Armenia and Troy, and so follows round the Armenia township line back into Tioga county, as the south flank of the mountain, through Union, Liberty and Morris, west of the village of Nauvoo and north of Zimmerman's creek. This line passes about a mile north of Ogden's Corners, in Union township. "The mountainous region thus enclosed embraces the south side of Elk, nearly all of Morris and Duncan, the north side of Liberty and Union,'and the south side of Covington and Sullivan, all of Bloss, Hamilton and Ward townships, Tioga county; and in Bradford county all of Armenia, making a precipitous wall at the eastern line of this township. "The center line, or synclinal axis, comes up from the southwest out of Potter and Clinton counties, south of Kettle creek, and enters Tioga county near the south- east corner of Elk, from whence it passes through the heart of Morris, crossing Pine creek near the mouth of Babb's creek, and rimning across the southeast comer of Duncan and through the central part of Bloss and Hamilton to the Tioga river at Blossburg, from whence it passes through the center of Ward to the county line." **************** "The great curve, to the south of its true course, thus described by the Bloss- burg synclinal axis, as it approaches the Susquehanna, is very remarkable, but cor- responds with a similar curve made by the Towanda synclinal axis as it approaches the river. Both of these lines resume their normal east northeast direction after crossing the river. There must be some deep-seated and far-acting, cause for this deflection. It is made more striking by the comparative straightness of the inter- mediate Towanda creek anticlinal axis. Yet this latter also shows that it sympa- thizes with the movement by a slight but decided similar curve south of Towanda. In Tioga county the axis of the Blossburg synclinal runs through the mountain much nearer to its north than to its south side." ******** TOPOGEAPHtCAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATTTBE3. 21 DIP OF THE BOCKS. "Catskill red rocks occupy the lower half of the mountain side in Tioga county, and Vespertine gray rocks, with occasional red beds, reach nearly to the top of the mountain. "The dip is always southward in towards the heart of the mountain, or center of the basin, and is strongest in inclination just at the foot of the mountain. The south dip in the north wall of the basin being steeper than the north dip in the south wall. But the south dip along the north side of the Blossburg basin is much less steep than the corresponding south dip along the north side of the Towanda basin. The north dip was observed at many places in the vicinity of Ogden's Comers and Union Center; northwest of Canton; near Alba; near East Troy; and in the banks of the Susquehanna, opposite and a little above Towanda. "The south dip was seen on Cedar creek, below Billinjis' lumber camp; on Pine creek, in Morris township; at the forks of Stony Fork; on AVilson creek, at the flag- ston quarries; along the Tioga railroad, midway between Blossburg and Covington, and at many other points in Tioga county." ••♦**♦*♦ ''Red Catskill outcrops are frequent, especially alunfr Odar creek. Pine eieek and Babb's creek, with their tributaries, where Formation IX. is often .seen at the surface. But perhaps the best exposures of these beds is along the Ti(ij,'a railroad, between Blossburg and Covington, in Tioga county. Other locations are along Sugar creek and a few points below Troy." ••♦•♦***•♦ "The Vespertine may be seen along l')iil>b's creek; in the narniws below Bloss- b\irg, where the lower beds are exposed, at their junction with IX.; in the side of Big mountain, between Blossburg and Covington ; in the narrows two or three mUes above Blossburg, in Tioga county; and at "Prospect Rock," on ilnunt Pisgah, in I'.radford county. "The Umbral red shale, from its soft nature, is not often seen at the surface, except in small ledges on the mountain tops. The Serai Conglomerate is exposed along the mountain tops west of Cedar creek, in Klk township; along the railroad a little north of Antrim; and at many points in the vicinity of Blossburg." * • ♦ "The Catskill rocks are thinner in the Blossluirg basin than in the 'I^jwiimla basin by 200 or 300 feet." * • * "Qn the southern side the Catskill red rocks spread out over the hills for one or two miles from the south foot of the mountain." * * * "The Catskill red rocks sweep round the east end of the Armenia mountain," ♦ ♦ ♦ "supporting three elevated patches of the Vespertine, one of which is Jlount Pisgah." Here "it seems the true non-fossiliferous red Cats- kill beds of the Blossburg mountain region cease." * « * "Catskill rocks may be seen on Cedar creek. Pine creek and other streams. At the forks of Stony Fork red shale is exposed, dipping rapidly to the south. Under the red shale lie fifty feet or more of gray shale and sandstone." WELLSBOBO ANTICLINAL. Continuing his interesting description, Mr. Sherwood says: "The Mansfield and Wellsboro anticlinal axis and valley lies betwein the Bloss- burg mountain lia.-;iii mi the south, and the Crooked creek (Mill creek) mountain 22 ' HISTORY OE TIOGA COUNTT. basin on the north. The axial line of the anticlinal crosses the west line of Tioga county about two miles and a half north from the southwest county corner — ^runs through Elk township, crossing Cedar creek at its fork;" * * * "crosses Pine creek somewhere above Eound Island; passes two miles south of Wellsboro; leaves Charleston township near East Charleston; crosses Tioga river a mile and a half above Mansfield, near Canoe Camp," and finally enters Bradford county. "When traced in an opposite direction, or towards the southwest, this anticlinal sends off a branch across Pine creek, through the northern portion of Elk township, into Potter county." * * * "The same conditions as belonging to the Blossburg basin are repeated here." * * * "The two diverging anticlinals are much diminished in force as they radiate from the point of separation. "The anticlinal valley divides (with the axis) west of Pine creek, one arm extend- ing to the southwest, between the Blossburg and the Kettle creek mountain basins; the other extending to the west, along the south line of Gaines township, between the Kettle creek and the Mill creek mountain basins." ****** "Through that portion of Tioga county lying east of Pine creek, the anticlinal valley spreads southward to the Blossburg mountain basin, or to the outcrop of the Vespertine rocks, which may be traced from the northwest corner of Morris township, through the southwest corner of Sullivan township to the Bradford county line, at the southwest corner of Columbia township. "It spreads northward to the Mill creek mountain basin, or to the outcrop of the Vespertine rocks." * * * "jt will be observed that the belt of country through which it passes is much more densely populated than the mountain basins on either side, which shows that the arable lands are mostly confined to the anti- clinal. "The Mansfield and "Wellsboro valley may be said to terminate at the Bradford county line, not by closing up, but by opening out into the rolling county lying to the northeast, over which anticlinal and synclinal areas have alike been so leveled down that the existing elevations vary but little in height — say 200 or 300 feet above the Tioga river bed. "The surface of the "Wellsboro valley proper is rolling, consisting of a succession of hills and valleys, varying but little in general appearance. The soil is moderately good; as good, perhaps, as can be found in the northern tier of counties; and the region may be considered rich in agricultural resources. It is drained by the waters of Pine creek and the Tioga river." CEOOKED OEEEK BASIN. "The Crooked, or Mill creek, mountain basin lies between the Mansfield and "Wellsboro anticlinal valley on the south, and the Sabinsville — or Cowanesque river anticlinal valley on the north. Its south wall enters Tioga from Potter county, on the south side of Pine creek, which it crosses about three-fourths of a mile below' the mouth of Marsh creek; runs thence to the northeast corner of Delmar- thence through the northern part of Charleston and Eichmond; crossing the Tioga' river at Lamb's creek; and Mill creek at the mouth of Elk run; then sweeping around to meet TOPOGRAPHICAL AXI) GEOLOGICAL FEATTJEES. 23 the north flank at a point on the Rutland-Jackson line, a mile short of the county line. "Its northern wall enters Tioga from Potter county in the southwest part of Clymer township; crosses Long run at its forks; passes along the southern edge of Chatham to the northeast corner of Middlebury township; crosses Crooked creek at Keeneyville, and again near Hammond; the Tioga river about a mile south of Tioga borough; keeping through the center of Tioga and the south edge of Jackson town- ship to meet the south wall of the mountain, as before described. "It is a much broken mountainous belt of country, covering the northern half of Gaines, the northern two-thirds of Shippen, the south edge of Clj-mer and Chat- ham, the north part of Delmar, the northern edge of Charleston and Richmond, the northwest part of Rutland, the southern half of Middlebury, the southeastern half of Tioga and the southern edge of Jackson townships. "Its central synclinal axis leaves Potter county and enters Tioga in the north part of Gaines township. Crossing Long run between ]>lue run and Benn Gully run, it makes a nearly east course through the north part of Sliippen, across the head of Asaph and Canada runs, to j\Iiddlcbury Centre and Ilolidaytown. Ilonding a little to the north it crosses the Tioga river at the mouth of Mill creek and enters Bradford county in the southeast corner of Jackson townshi])." ♦****• "The general level of the mountain top — or to]is, for tlioy nro numerous — is pretty uniformly at the same height above tide. In the western part of Tioga county its surface drainage is into Pine and ^larsh creeks, with their numerous arms — Phoenix creek. Long run, with its branches — Illue run. Gal run, Benn (iully run, etc. — Shim Hollow run, Aspah run, Canada run, etc., and also into the upper branches of the ('(jwanescjue, Mill creek and the Jemison. "Pine and Marsh creeks have exenvated their channels just within the edge of the basin; and it will lie noticed tliat the point where the two streams unite and leave the basin is opposite its deepest part. The principal drainage is, therefore, out from the south side of tlio middle portion of an oblong oval basin. Of course it is here that a considerable area of coal measures has been preserved. "The mountain mass, which in Gaines township, is cut completely through crosswise, and to its base, by Long run flowing south into Pine creek, is cut up into three separate isolated knobs, further to the east, by Crooked creek and its branches. These streams cut the mountain through to its base. "Crooked creek has a curious course, entering the mountain Ijasin at Keeney- ville, and leaving it again at Hammond, six or seven miles below, on the same side of the basin; but its course is through a somewhat shallower ]iart of the basin. Crooked creek is here joined by some of its principal tributaries, as Xorris brook, Catlin Hollow run, Hill's creek, Steven House run, etc. Mill creek joins the Tioga river exactly wjiere the center line of the synclinal axis crosses the river. Its prin- cipal feeders having their sources in the mountain are Cabin run, Painter run and Bailey creek. "It will be observed that the Tiopa river cuts straight through the mountain, entering it at Lamli's creek and leaving it near Tioga. And the line of the river rejireBente the transverse axis of another oblong oval basin similar to, but smaller than, the one mentioned before, in connection with Pine and Marsh creeks. This 24 HISTORY OF TIOGA COUNTY. basin is only deep enough to retain the coal conglomerate on the mountain top ahoTO Painter run, a short distance east of the river. The course of the Tioga river was evidently determined by, first, the oval basin of Tioga; and its direction from one to the other, north twenty-five degrees west, or at right angles to the course of the svnclinal." ************** VALLEY OF THE COWANESQtTE. "The valley of the Cowanesque river lies between the Mill creek mountain basin on the south, and the Cowanesque mountain basin on the north, and extends for about twenty-five miles from the Potter county line to the Tioga river. Its breadth varies from six miles at its western to ten miles at its eastern end. The anticlinal axis wiiich runs through it lengthwise crosses the west county line of Clymer township two or three miles south of the southwest corner; passes under Sabinsville, and a little to the north of Little Marsh postoiSce, to the northwest corner of Tioga township; the Tioga river at or near Somer's Lane; thence to the northeast corner of the county. It continues its course in the same direction through Chemung county, New York. The south edge of the actual valley is very nearly the line which separ- ates the Catskill red from the Vespertine or Catskill gray rocks, and may be said to run from the forks of Long run in Clymer, past Keeneyville and Tioga, to the south- east corner of Jackson township. "The northern edge of the valley is the south foot of the Cowanesque mountain, rising directly from the north bank of the Cowanesque river as far as Elkland. The valley includes more than the half of Clymer, a small part of Westfield, nearly all of Chatham, the whole of Parmington and a part of Middlebury townships. The surface is made up of low rounded hills; the soil is good, and adapted to grain and stock raising. The drainage of the valley is complicated. The south branches of Cowanesque river — Potter brook along the county line. Mill creek through Sabins- ville, the Jemison, etc., drain its west end, northward; while the heads of Long run and "Waddle's branch drain the south dipping country, southward into Pine creek. In the middle region, while other small streams flow northward iuto the Cowanesque, the head branches of Crooked creek drain from the axis at Little Marsh and Shorts- ville, southward, into the mountain. The eastern end of the valley is drained by the Elkhorn east southeastward into the Tioga at Tioga borough, by Mutton Lane and Somer's Lane creeks also into the Tioga; while Cowanesque river crosses diagonally the valley from Elkland to Lawrenceville to empty its abundant waters into the Tioga." STREAMS OE THE COUNTY. The principal streams of Tioga county are the Tioga river, the Cowanesque river. Crooked creek and Pine creek. These with their branches, aided by other smaller streams, which flow into Bradford, Lycoming and Potter counties, have been leading agencies in transforming the surface of the county, a work they are still, though less effectively, engaged in. The Tioga River, the most important of these, rises in a tamarack swamp on the eastern crest of the Armenia mountains, and is first known as Tamarack creek until TOPOGEAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 25 joined by Morgan creek and other small streams at the county line, after which it is known as the Tioga river. Its general course for the fixst twelve or fifteen miles is to the southwest, keeping along the synclinal axis at the bottom of the basin. At the mouth of Carpenter's run, about two miles above Blossburg, it turns north, and after running about five miles escapes from the mountains into the Mansfield and "WeUs- boro anticlinal valley, about a mile and a half above Covington. The point where it turns to the north is the deepest part of the oblong oval basin of the Blossburg coal field. Inside the basin the Tioga river is joined by the South creek. Fall brook. Carpen- ter's run, Taylor's run, Harris run, Coal run, Johnson creek and East creek, all rapid streams, descending with the dip from the oval rim of the mountain, cutting deep furrow-like vales, and removing thousands of acres of coal lands which once existed, and a pile of coal measures of perhaps 2,000 feet in thickness. Tioga river leaves the county and enters New York State at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet, for the railroad grade at Lawrenceville on the State line is 1,006 feet; at Mitchell's creek mouth, 1,0:^2 feet; at Tio^:;! borough, 1,042 feet; at Mill creek mouth, 1,077 feet; at Lamb's creek, 1,111 IVet; at Mansfield, 1,140 feet; at Canoe Camp, 1,163 feet; at Covington, 1,208 feet; and at Blossburg, 1,348 feet. Tioga river descends, therefore, about 350 feet from lilossburg to La\vreaceville, a distance of twenty-two miles, in a nearly straight line — or twenty-five miles by its bends — at the rate of about twenty-two feet per mile for the first nine miles, and eleven feet per mile for the last fourteen miles. It falls o(if) feet in six miles above Blossburg, from the Fall Brook coal mines, which are 1,842 feet above tide; and the mountain summit, back of the mines, rises several hundred feet hiijlier. Crooked Creek, the principal tributary of the Tioga ri\er, has its head watrrs in Chatham township, and pursues a southeast course until it reaches Jliddlebury Cen- tre, when it turns northeast and flows through Middleburj' and Tioga townships, uniting with the river at Tioga borough. The Crooked creek canon, which splits the second mountain range, and issues at Tioga borough, is traversed as far as Mid- dlebury Centre by the Fall Brook railroad, running from Lawreneeville to the An- trim mines, of the first or Blossburg range by way of Wellsboro. At Holidaytown its grade is 1,151 feet above tide water; at Middlebury Centre, 1,179 feet; at Wells- boro, the county seat, in the center of the valley, and on the crown of the anticlinal and divide between the waters which flow four ways, 1,317 feet. At the railroad summit, in a low gap in the first range, it is 1,862 feet, and at the Antrim coal mines. 1,672 feet. Antrim terminus and Arnot terminus are therefore nearly on a level with each other and with the Morris run terminus, l.tJTS feet. Li/coiiiing ( 'reck, another important stream, which skirts the southern comer of the eounty. Hows at the same level as the Tioga river at Covington; the grade of the Williamsport and Elmira railroad at Carpenter being 1,200 and the Tioga railroad grade at Covington 1,208 feet. Pine Creek — "River of the Pines" — is a stream of considerable volume, and drains an exteii.sive water shed. It has its souree in Potter county. From the mouth of Marsh creek, at Ansonia, all the way southward to Lycoming county, it flows in a deep and narrow valley or s^orfie, with high hills and walk of rock on either side. The portion called "The Narrows" only affords room enough for the tracks 26 HISTOEY OF TIOGA COUNTT. of the Fall Brook railroad for a distance of about sixteen miles by the side of the stream, which at times becomes a wild, dashing mountain torrent. There are no flats of much consequence at the widest points, but the hills usually rise from near the water's edge. After entering Tioga county, within the edge of the Mill creek mountain basin, until it is joined by Marsh creek, when it takes a sharp turn to the south, it cuts across the Mansfield and Wellsboro anticlinal at the point where the axis divides. Its course is one of zigzags, across anticlinals and synclinals, from its course to its confluence with the West Branch of the Susquehanna, two miles west of Jersey Shore. Whilst it is a rapid flowing stream throughout, its principal tribu- tary, is the sluggish Marsh creek. The lowest point in the county is in the Pine creek canon, where it passes south into Lycoming county a short distance below Blackwells, at the mouth of Babb's creek, which is 833 feet above tide. Marsh creek mouth is 1,106 feet; Mill creek mouth at Gaines is 1,219 feet; and where Pine creek enters from Potter county its bed is nearly 1,300 feet above tide; the summits of the coal-covered mountain tops to the north being over 3,000 feet. Pine creek, from the great water shed it drains, should be called a river. It has a fall of twenty feet per mile for fourteen miles, and is, therefore, a swift current. Marsh Creek, which unites with Pine creek at Ansonia, is a remarkable stream, with a motion so slow as to be hardly perceptible. It flows through a broad valley known as "The Marsh," the ground being swampy for many miles. Its direction is exactly the reverse of that pursued by Upper Pine creek — as if the waters of Pine creek once flowed up Marsh creek, straight on toward the Tioga river. In fact "The Jl^arsh" extends the whole distance from. Pine creek to Nile's Valley, near the north- east corner of Delmar township, where the water from Norris creek flows both ways, part down Crooked creek and part down Marsh creek. It is a remarkable summit, if summit it can be called, which divides the waters flowing down Marsh creek to Pine creek, and those flowing down Crooked creek to the Tioga river. The idea is therefore quite popular, says Mr. Sherwood, among the inhabitants that Pine creek, instead of flowing south through the gorge first described, flowed formerly through the valleys of Marsh creek and Crooked creek, into the Tioga river. And any one who will view the ground will be forced to conclude that' such was probably the case, but when or how this great change was brought about is one of the questions that never can be explained or answered. If Pine creek once flowed northward from Ansonia, what a mighty convulsion of nature must it have been that rent the mount- ain asunder and diverted its waters southward through one of the most weird chasms to be found in the chain of the AUeghenies? Another theory is that a small stream once had its source south of the supposed wall, and, on account of a "fault" in the rocks, as the geologists say, worked a small passage down the mountain. When the breast of the dam was broken, bv the tre- mendous pressure behind it, there was such a mighty rush of water down the rivulet that in time the great chasm was cut and the course of Pine creek ehano'ed to the south. There are evidences on the mountain sides, in the form of marine shells, of the existence of water at one time. Enoch Blackwell, a gentleman of keen observation and who is familiar with this mountain region from boyhood, has no doubt in his TOPOGHAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATUKES. mind of the existence of a great lake at one time, which had its outlet by the way of the Tioga river; but when the barrier was broken the flow of its waters was to the south and the Pine creek canon was cut. In confirmation of this theory Mr. Sherwood says in his geological report that it "is a curious topographical fact that a dam, fifty rods in length, from mountain to mountain, across Pine creek at the mouth of Marsh creek — such as it might be possi- ble to build, and such as may possibly have been erected for a time by other than human agency, during the glacial epoch — would effect this division."' If such were really the original conditions, and they certainly look reasonable, the change may be attributed to that period of our mundane history. The Cowanesque River has its source in Potter county and fiows eastwardly just south of the State line to its confluence with the Tioga at Lawrenceville. The valley through which it passes is one of surpassing beauty and by far the richest and most productive district in the county. There are a number of villa^^'o-; in the valley and there is considerable manufacturing. In its pristine cundition this valley must have been an elysian home of the Senecas, where they came to hunt and fish. Reference is made to the; valley in tbf earliest writings, and it is believed that Mary .TeiiiisDn, the "While Woman," frequently came hither with her Indian family to enjuy the hunt. There arc also evidences that .lesuit missionaries were here long before the appearance of the English; ami it is believed by some that Moravian missidiiaries passed through here on their western tours, but there is no authentic evidence to sustain that opinion. The river drains an extensive water shed and at liTiies carries a largo volume of water. White settlers came early, James Strawbridge probably being the first. Long after whites had setiled in the valley Indians were in the habit of coming to hunt and fish, and they seemed loth to leave it. The peculiar name of the river and its meaning has long been a subject for discussion among scholars and writers. To Hon. Charles Tiibbs, of Osceola, belongs the credit of having made the most thorough investigation of the meaning of the Indian name of the river. He con- tinued his investigation for several years. From cunipetent authority he learned that Red Jacket was once asked to define the word. He replied that it was a Seneca word, and meant "at the long island." On the draught of survey of the State road from Newberry to the 109th mile stone, constructed in 1709, the name is spelled Ga-wa-ni-a-que. This draught is still preserved in the land office at Harrislmrg. Compare with this several names defined by iforgan in his "League of the Iroquois," thus: ( Ja-wa-ni-a-que, at the long island; Ga-wa-no-wa-uch, great island river: (ia- weh-no-geh, on the island; Ga-weh-nase-geh, a long island. Ga-wa, or ( ra-weh, enters into all these words as a component part and probably signifies island. So much for analogy. This not being entirely satisfactory, Mr. Tubbs learned in 1891 that the Smith- sonian Institute was making a systematic study of the IroquoisJangiinire, and he sub- mitted the word for definition. In course of time he received from J. W. T'owell, director, the following: "The word ('owanes(|iie seeris to be no other than Ka-hwe- nes-ka, the ctyinologA- and signification of which is as follows: Co. for Ka. marking grainmntic gender and meaning i7; wan for hwe-n the stem of the word o-whe-n.i, an 28 HISTOKT OP TIOGA COCTNTy. island; es an adjective meaning long; que, for ke, the locative proposition, meaning at or on; the whole signifying at or on the long island." This analysis was made hy Professor Hewitt, Iroquoian expert. The reader may ask: How does that name apply to this river? That is easily explained. All Indian names were significant and chronicled some characteristic of the thing named. In this case there was, originally, in Deerfield and Osceola, an island in the- Cowanesque river containing 1,600 acres. It was over four miles long and of varying width. The remarkable thing about the river to the Indian was this long island. The early settlers dammed the part of the river which ran on the north side of the- island, diverting the water into the channel on the south side. At this day what remains of the channel on the north side of the island is known as the Island Stream. It is fed by springs and creeks from the north hill and empties into the river at Osceola. The island is given on all early surveys and it also appears on the Connec- ticut map. This definition and explanation of the name, Cowanesque, is probably the best and most complete that can be rendered at this late day; and indeed it seems to be- sufficiently lucid to satisfy the most critical. So completely has the island been destroyed that the traveler passing over it would be unaware of its existence, unless informed of the fact. To the Indians it was undoubtedly an important landmark, and on it they pitched their wigwams, in- dulged in their rude sports and dances, and enjoyed themselves in the highest degree. Minor Streams, which are fully described in the chapters relating to the several boroughs and townships of the county, form the tributaries of the Tioga and Cowan- esque rivers and of Crooked, Pine and Lycoming creeks. The sources of these are either in springs emerging from the sides of the mountains, or in small marshy up- land areas. They flow rapidly, and in times of heavy rains, rise quickly. The public roads leading from the valleys of the larger streams to the uplands usually follow their course, their valleys being dotted with farm houses and the well-tilled fields of thrifty husbandmen. CONCLUDING OBSEEVATIONS. Prom the foregoing it is easy to see that while the mountains of Tioga county rise to a pretty uniform general level of 2,000 feet above tide water, and the broad valleys between roll their surfaces about 1,200 feet or 1,300 feet, the main water channels are cut sharply down to depths of 1,000 feet or even lower. The streams are fed by abundant rains, for the county lies in the rain belt of forty inches. The mean annual rainfall is forty inches. While the mean summer temperature is sixty- three, the mean winter temperature is only twenty-three. The cold, therefore, is pretty severe. Consequently, the erosion of the surface, through the agencies of frost and rain, has been actively carried on through all ages since the coal era. Dry northwest winds favor radiation and evaporation, carrying down the temperature far below zero. They favor equally the full effect of the sun's rays upon the rock surfaces. The rocks, alternately expanded and contracted, are prepared for absorbing moisture; the frost breaks them up, and innumerable rivulets, periodically swollen, carry off the fragments and grind them into sand and mud. The forest, while it is a protection THE LAND OF TIOGA. 29 against this wear and tear in one sense, facilitates it also by prying the outcrop layers apart with their roots, and every surface, hill slope and mountain steep alike, is slowly but always creeping down towards the water ways. It is this universal erosion, taking effect upon a large area of exceedingly regular stratification, which explains the beautiful regularity of the parallel ranges of mount- ains traversing the county, and the striking similarity of the broad valleys which run up from the open country of Bradford, westward, into and between the mountains of Tioga. It explains also why these valleys end or head up, each in the form of a wide amphitheater, against the unbroken or undivided plateau of Potter and Lycom- ing counties. It is evident, then, that the mountains of Tioga county have in past ages been much higher than they are now. llr. Sherwood thinks there is no good reason for doubting that the whole of the coal measiires once covered this county. As the coal measures of Pennsylvania, both in the southwestern corner of the State, where more than 3,000 feet of them remain to be measured, and in the anthracite basins, which, in the deepest parts, hold 3,000 feet of them still undestroyed, may have been originally 4,000 feet thick, it seems probable that the Tioga mountains were once as high as Mount Washington. CHAPTEE II. THE LAND OF TIOGA. First Occupants— Rugged and Romantic Scenery— Game. Fish and Wild Animals- An Ideal Hunting Ground— Indian Paths— Indian Villages- French Explorers and Missionaries— Boundary Line of the Purchase op 1768— The Old Treaties— The Walker Tragedy— Indian Characteristics AND Peculiarities. Tlil-; territory lying within the present boundaries of Tioga county, Pennsylvania, was originally occupied by the Seneca Indians, and was one of their favorite hunt- ing and fishing districts. Its entire surface was heavily timbered. Pine and hemlock grew in the valleys, on the mountain sides and summits, and largely predominated the hard wood varieties, such as oak, birch, maple, etc., which occupied limited areas, principally upland. The ravines, through which streams of crystal water dashed, were filled with a dense growth of vines, briars and underbrush almost impenetrable, save only to Indians and wild animals. The luxuriant and evergreen foliage of the pine and hemlock cast a sombre gloom over the narrow valleys, and so closely were their branches inlertwirifld and locked in many places, that the rays of the flaming god of day could scarcely ]>enetrate them. Sueli were the wilderness condition of this 30 HISTORY OF TIOGA C0T7NTT. mountain region. How long it had so existed no white man knew and the aborigines could not tell. Game of all kinds abounded in this region. The stately elk infested a portion of it, and deer were found in great numbers. Other game, too, was plentiful. The nimble squirrel chattered among the branches of the oaks, the wolf, the fox and the bear roamed among the hills and through the valleys, while the porcupine and the raccoon were found everywhere. The streams were filled with trout and other fish. What more could the tawny children of the forest desire? Nature had bountifully provided for them. They built their rude wigwams on the banks of the rivers and creeks, and at particularly eligible locations they had villages, while in the mountains their hunting lodges were pitched. In this wild region the aborigines roamed at will, communed with nature, chanted songs of the spirit land and were happy. No white man had yet penetrated their domain; they were uneontaminated by the vices which go hand in hand with civiliza- tion; they knew no guile; those destroying evils — whiskey and smallpox — ^had not yet been introduced among them. To them ignorance of the world was bliss, and they knew nothing of the folly which accompanies wisdom. INDIAN PATHS. Several Indian paths crossed and recrossed what is now the territory of Tioga county. And these trails became important landmarks for the early white settlers, who followed them in their journeyings through the wilderness, and afterward en- larged them for public highways when the county commenced filling up with settlers. Several of these paths came from central New York and were traced along the valleys and streams. From the important Seneca settlement, known to the whites as Big Tree, on the Genesee, main paths led down the Conhocton and Canisteo, coming out at Painted Post, another important point among the Indians. From Painted Post the path ran up the Tioga river, passing near Lawrenceville, Tioga, Mansfield, Canoe Camp, Covington and Blossburg. From this latter point it continued on via Liberty and Laurel Hill, until it intersected the great Sheshequin path running up Lycoming creek, and thence to Tioga Point, on the North Branch. The famous Williamson road afterward followed this path from Trout Run and became a great thoroughfare for early travel. Another ran by Arnot and down Babb's creek to Pine, which it descended to the valley of the West Branch. Starting from what is now the borough of Tioga, on the river of the same name, a trail ascended the valley of Crooked creek, thence to Wellsboro, and on by the way of Stony Fork to its intersection with the Babb's creek path, down which it passed to the Indian village of Tiadaghton, on Pine creek. It was by this route that Van Campen and his party were taken, to the Seneca settlements, after they were captured on the Bald Eagle, in April, 1782. Although comparatively unknown to the early settlers along the river, because it traversed such a wild and inhospitable region for more than 100 miles, it was really one of the most important Indian trails, and over it many war parties passed on their way to attack the lower settlements during the troublous times of 1778-79. It was by this route, too, that the Senecas would have descended when they threatened to be avenged on the settlers at the mouth of Pine creek for the murder of two of their number by the Walker brothers and Sam Doyle, THE LAND OF TIOGA. 31 while they were on a hunting expedition in time of peace. Tradition says that a strong party of warriors really did descend Pine creek some distance below Tia- daghton, fully bent on mischief, but were recalled by runners after the State com- missioners had appeased the ■wTath of the Indians at a conference held at Canan- daigua, by promising to do all they could to arrest the Walkers and punish them. Another important path left the Canisteo at xVdfli?r>n, Xew York, known as the TuBcarora, and led over the hills to near where Elkland is now situated, on the Cowanesque; thence it bore off in a southwesterly direction, crossing the upper waters of Pine creek, and descended Kettle creek to Westport, on the West llranch of the Susquehanna. Over this path war parties frequently traveled to attack the advanced settlements on the river, and as it led through a dense, wild and gloomy region, it was comparatively unknown to the whites at the beginning of Indian hostilities. It is probable that the war party, which attacked, defeated and eaptureil Van i 'aiiipen on the Bald Eagle, had entered the valley of the Susquehanna by this route. \'an Campen tells its in his narrative that the party consisted of about eighty warriors, and they were descending the river in light canoes. It was their custom to approach the settlements in a body, when, on the appearance of white people, tliey separated into small bands and spread over the country for the purpose of murder and rapine. This war party discovered Van Campen's boats where they had been tied up, near the Great Island, and taking his trail surprised and captured him the next morning. As this invasion w as made about the close of the Kr\ ulutionary War, it is proha- ble that it was a portion of this war party that was pursued by Peter and Michael drove, and party, and siir])vised in th( ir camp on the Sinneniahoning and several killed. They had been down in what is now Union county and killed a number of settlers, and were fleeing in the direction of the Genesee country when overtaken. It is probable that there was also an Indian trail up the Pine creek gor;,'e, above Blackwells, inasmuch as there is abundant evidence of the existence at one time of an Indian village at "Big Meadows," now Ansimia, at the mouth of Marsh creik. This gloomy canon is now traversed by the Pine Creek railroad. INDI.W VILLAGKS. The early scouts, hunters and settlers found, in various parts of the county, evidences of the existence at one time of Indian villages. Hue of these was at the mouth of Balib's creek, where a cleared s])ot of some extent was found, showing previ- ous cultivation. This was designated as a meadow, and there is a well-defined tradi- tion that 11 chief, or man of some prominence in the tribe, named Tiadajrhton, dwelt here. According to old records. Pine creek, at that time, was called Tiada;;hton, but there is nothing in any of the glossaries of Indian words compiled by the Mnravians to show that such a name was ever applied to any stream or mountain. Heckewelder, who is aecrpted as standard autliority, nou here alludes to such a name in any of his writin;^'s. We arc forced to the conclusion, therefore, that an Indian bearing this eujiho- nioiis litli' dwell at the mouth of I'.al.l.'s creek, and his name was associated with Pine cnik hy the whites in order to desii^nate his place of nsidence. and in course of time the St nam cnme to he known liy tliat title. Among the Indians this great stream seems to have betn known a.< the "KiNrr of the Pines," because it flowed from a land * 32 HISTOET OJ? TIOGA COUNTY. ■where this timber abounded in the greatest luxuriance. On the open space, or meadow, at the mouth of Babb's creek, corn was very likely cultivated by the Indians, as the soil was composed of a rich alluvial deposit and was well adapted to the production of that cereal. The fishing being good at this point, offered another inducement for Tiadaghton to establish his wigwam and build up a village around him. Shad ascended Pine creek as far as the mouth of Marsh creek, there being no obstructions in the river in those days to, keep them back. The mountain sur- roundings in this deep and gloomy gorge were sufficiently wild to suit the tastes of the most thorough Indian, and if old Tiadaghton had any romantic inclinations in his untutored mind, he could here enjoy them in the gloomy grandeur of a mountain solitude which is still without a rival in, northern Pennsylvania. As further evidence of a village having once stood here, may be mentioned the finding by the early white settlers of numerous Indian relics, such as flint arrow points and bits of broken pottery. The point, too, was an important one for war parties to tarry for rest when making a descent upon the river settlements; and white prisoners were sometimes taken through this way. It is mentioned by Van Campen, after his defeat and capture, in April, 1783, by a body of Indians near where Mill Hall, Clinton county, now stands, that he and other prisoners were taken to Pine creek,* which they ascended. At a certain point they stopped, when the Indian hunters went out in pursuit of game, and quickly re- turned, "bringing along a noble elk," which "was soon dressed and prepared for roasting." "The prisoners," he continues, "were allowed the same liberty that was taken by the warriors themselves; they cut from the animal as much fresh meat as they wished, and roasted it on the coals, or held it on the end of a sharpened stick to the fire." Here a prisoner, named Burwell, who was shot through the shoulder, had his wound dressed in the following primitive but effective manner: "Having collected a parcel of suitable herbs, they [the Indians] boiled them in water, thus making a strong decoction, in which they dipped the feathers of a quill, and ran it through his wound." The operation was a severe one, but the infiammation was reduced and the wound soon healed. Another wounded prisoner, named Henderson, did Hot fare so well. He had four of his fingers shot off, as he was raising his gun to fire, by a bullet from an Indian rifle. Van Campen says that on the second day of their march he passed him sitting on a log with "a countenance sad and pale," and two Indians standing by his side. He did not go far "before he heard a noise like the sound of a tomahawk entering the head, and in a few moments the two Indians ran by bearing a scalp and carrying a hatchet dripping with blood!" On resuming their march, Van Campen informs us, "the remains of the elk were divided among the warriors and prisoners, each carrying his portion as a supply against further need." "Pushing up the valley," he continues, ."they soon came to the head of Pme creek; thence striking across the country, they reached in half a da/s travel, the head waters of the Genesee river." Down this stream they passed until they arrived at the Seneca settlements. Similar evidences of the existence at one time of an Indian village were found * I,ife of Van Campen, revised edition by Minard, 1893, pp. 219-222. THE LAXD OF TIOGA. 33 by the early hunters and settlers at "liig ileadows,"' now Ansonia, at the mouth of JIarsh creek. Even at this late day flints, arrow heads, etc., are brought to the surface in the digging of graves in the cemetery at Ansonia, which, so tradition has it, was an old Indian burying ground. When the whites came to this spot they found a large cleared space bearing evidence of having once been under cultivation. The finding of numerous Indian relics in and around Tioga borough evidence the existence there at one tim.e of an Indian village of considerable importance. George V. Smith, a son of Dr. Robert B. Smith, of that place, who is an enthusiastic student of archaeolofry, has quite a large colk-ciioo of these relics of a departed peo])le, to which he is constantly making additions. It embraces arrow-heads and spear-heads of flint; large and small implements of blue stone for skinning and dressing hides; implements for fishing; pipes, a huge stone mortar, in which the Indian ground his com, together with the pestle for grinding, as well as hatchets, tomahawks and knives. Not the least interesting of these rare and valuable relics are the fragments of several Indian skeletons unearthed by Mr. i^inith on the site of an ancient burying ground near Tioga borough. This collection also contains a number of valuable utensils, and n large amount of pottery. In June, 1889, Mr. Smith unearthed, almost within the limits of Tioga borough, the fragments of three Indian jars, wliieh, with great dilliculty, have bi'en •completely restored. These jars were made of clay, strengthened by very coarse sand or fine gravel, after which the whole was Itiirneil or baked in a bulnish basket, the bul- rushes being burned away, leaving their imprints on the exteriors of the jars. These huge clay jars present an interesting study in the (levelo])ment of decorative art, for all three are decorated with lines and dots, no attempt, however, being made at ■effigy. The interiors are smooth. The largest of these jars is seventeen inches in height, and, when whole, had a eajiaeity of nearly half a bushel. Not far from where these interesting relics were unearthed, were found the remains of several fire-])laees, from whith he tmik a number of animal bones, em- traoing those of the deer. He also took from one of these fire-places nearly a pint of charred corn and beans. Tile relies in this collection evidence not only the existence at one time of an Indian village at Tioga, but of an Indian burying ground in which a large number of interments were made. i FRKNCII KXPLORERS AND MISSIONARIES. The first while men who probably visited the Senecas were French. We have no evidence that the early explorers penetrated to any extent what is now the territory of Tioga county, but as tliey were an adventuresome peojde, it is not unreasonable to assume that they visited uliai are now the northern borders of the county, and piohably ascended tlie Tioga river for some distance. So intent were the French on thoaci|nisitioii of territory that tliey penetrated unknown wilds in search of informa- tion regarding the laml and the natives; and they never failed to establish friendly relations witli them, because they cultivated feelings of amity and never violated their pledjies. The French Catholic Ini^si