Nm fork 
 
 Hnti Qlolbgf of Agriculture 
 
 At (BarnM llniuprattg 
 
 aitJjara. N. ?. 
 
 Sjtbrary 
 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 A. PAPER 
 
 READ BY 
 
 W. BAXBT BLAIE 
 
 Professor of Horticulture, Macdonald College 
 
 BEFORE THE 
 
 STANDING COMMITTEE OF THE SENATE 
 
 ON 
 
 AGRICULTURE AND FORESTRY 
 
 LIBBARY 
 
 M. Y. STATE COLLEGE CF AGRiCUL rt,;;£, 
 ITHACA) N. Y> 
 
 1911 
 
 PRINTED BY ORDER OF PARLIAMENT 
 
 OTTAWA 
 PRINTED BY C. H. PAKMELEE, PKINTEB, TO THE KING'S MOST 
 
 EXCELLENT MAJESTY 
 1912 
 
 S0144— 1 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SB 321.B63 
 
 The vegetable garden.A paper read by W, 
 
 3 1924 000 339 485 
 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 BY 
 
 W. Saxby Blair 
 
 Professor of Horticulture, Macdonald College. 
 
 Vegetable growing involves more detail than does the growing of any of the 
 general farm crops. Many of these details may be of minor importance in general 
 agriculture, whereas in vegetable growing, success or failure may ba determined 
 largely by attention to them. For this reason to deal with vegetable gardening brieily 
 in a comprehensive manner is exceedingly difficult. Consider, for instance, details 
 incident to the growing of tomatoes, or any representative vegetable crop, such as 
 starting the seed, usually under glass, and the management of the hotbed for best 
 development of seedlings; transplanting of seedlings to secure desirable plants; 
 hardening off of the plants for setting to the open field; preparation of the ground; 
 setting out the plants; cultivation; training; harvesting as the crop matures, and 
 the packing of such perishable fruit in attractive and suitable packages, in comparison 
 with a grain or fodder crop, to start which the preparation of the soil is usually not 
 nearly so important; the seed is sown where the crop is to develop; the product is 
 harvested easily, usually all at one time, and in bulk; does not require so careful 
 handling and permits of easy storage. 
 
 I shall attempt first to point out certain important details more or less common 
 in their application to all vegetable crops, and follow this with more specific informa- 
 tion relative to the growing of some of the principal vegetable crops. 
 
 STAETING THE SEED. 
 
 In sowing seed whether in the open ground, hotbed or greenhouse, attention 
 should be given to certain factors which contribute to successful germination. Heat, 
 moisture and air are essential. The temperature requirements for best germination 
 are usually a few degrees higher than required for the best development of the plant 
 Avoid extreme temperature conditions. A high temperature followed by cold may 
 prove disastrous. 
 
 Uniform moisture conditions are imperative. Excessive watering one time 
 followed by drying out is the cause of many seeds not starting. Keep the soil moist, 
 not wet. Seeds if not in contact with moist soil cannot possibly germinate. The 
 reason for pressing the soil over seeds that are small is to bring the soil moisture to 
 the surface to supply the seed. The smaller the seed the shallower they should be 
 planted as a rule. The air requirement is regulated largely by the depth of planting. 
 The depth of planting will be governed somewhat by the condition of the soil, for on 
 
 3 
 
 2014Ar—H 
 
light open soils the seed can be safely planted deeper than on heavy compact soil. 
 Small seed, such as eelery, jnay be sown o]i(-(/ighty iiirh deer). Me.lium-sized seed, 
 such as cabbage and onion, onc-quarler inch <]<ep. Peas :ind beajis may be planted 
 one to two inches deep. 
 
 PREPARATION TILLAGE. 
 
 By preparation tillnge is meant the tilliiiK of laud before planting. With all 
 vegetable crops this should be thoroiif-'hly done. The Ik avii r nr more compaet the soil 
 the greater the neeessity for oaro in this operalion. Any inanure applied '■hould be 
 well mixed through the soil. The ground should be well wiiikr.-cl to at lea.st six inches 
 deep with the two-horse cultivator or similar implenierit. Crops should never be 
 rushed into poorly prepared ground, for it is not possible to make up for preparation 
 tillage after the crops are planted. 
 
 MAINTENANCE TILLAGE. 
 
 Maintenance tillage is the tillage required after the crops are planted. !Maiii- 
 tenance tillage should be shallow. The object should be te keep down all weed growth 
 by frequent shallow cultivation, and leave a fine earth covering on the surface of the 
 ground to prevent evaporation from the soil. Two inches is the usual depth for such 
 cultivation. When the plants are young deeper cultivation may be given, bit after 
 the roots commence to spread through the soil much injury from cutting or exposing 
 them may result from deep cultivation. 
 
 MANURING. 
 
 Partially-rotted stable manure may be applied to vegetable lar^l in the fall nad 
 ploughed in to a depth of five or six inches. Stable manure a^plitd in the spring 
 should be well rotted. This is especially so in the ease of early vr.L'etables. The 
 advantage of well rotted manure is that the plant food it contains is in a more readily 
 available form and can be used by the crop at once. Kui;-!) and partially decayed 
 manure may be used to advantage for late vegetable crops if applied in the firing. 
 As a general thing, hewLver, manuring in the fall and ploughing: it under is advisable 
 for all ve^^etable crops. 
 
 COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS. 
 
 Coinnioi-.-ial feitili/.tTS ean lie usi'd tO advanta^ie in \(-etalilo growing, dne con- 
 taining I |iiT mil. nilr<iK(n, 8 per ccnl. [iliospliorio aeid. mul 10 per cent, inua^h will 
 prove tlie most Hutlsi'aelory. This may be liunie ii;i\r.l by pllrl■ha^lng the unmixed 
 material and mixiufx in the followiuK |iroporlions: ):M) Ihs. niiralo of soda, 1'2.^ lbs. 
 Rul|.liate or muriato of polasji and :iL',''. Ihs. ol' I.', per ei'nt. aeid |diOspbale. From .M^) 
 to 1,0(1(1 lbs. |ier aero is the usual application of this I'ertili/.er. Tlie iiraeliee is to 
 sow hroa.l<ae^t jdst hefori' .-veiling or planting, .sealleriiiji evmly and tnivlng willi the 
 soil hy harrowing. Fertilizer seallero,! ,it liio raly of one ounce to the square yard 
 ropre:iiils approxinnitely .'.(Id lbs. per aere. 
 
Where quick vegetable growth is desired, nitrate of soda at the rate of 200 to 300 
 lbs. per acre may prove desirable. A heavier application than this is not advisable 
 and may prove injurious. 
 
 HOTBEDS. 
 
 For lengthening the season of fresh vegetables and to raise vegetables which 
 require a long season to mature, hotbeds wiU be found to be quite necessary. They 
 are constructed in the early spring before the weather becomes warm enough to start 
 growth without some artificial heat. This heat is supplied by using fermenting 
 manure. Horse manure that has not ' fire-fanged ' or ' burnt-out ' should be used. 
 When collecting the manure care should be taken to keep the mass well tramped to 
 exclude the air as much as possible, thereby preventing this rapid decomposition or 
 ' fire-f anging.' When the necessary amount of manure has been secured it is turned 
 and made into a heap, and after a week it may be again turned and made into a hot- 
 bed. 
 
 An even, uniform heat is desired, and not the quick violent heating which soon 
 .spends itself. In order to secure this, spread the manure evenly in layers of one foot 
 at a time, distributing the di'y and cool parts of the manure with the warm and moist 
 parts, and tramp the whole mass quite firm as the work proceeds. The amount of 
 tramping will be determined by the amount of straw the mass contains, the greater the 
 proportion of straw as compared with the solids the more tramping required. If the 
 mass is very dry it may be advisable to wet it some to make it more compact. 
 
 The manure may be made into a hotbed on the surface of the ground or put into 
 a pit made about 18 inches deep. If the pit is used care must be exerciseid 
 not to allow water to enter it. In any case the bed should be larger on each side 
 than the frame to be used. It will not be necessary to use so much manure if the pit 
 is used as in the case of the surface bed, for the heat will be held better from the bed 
 being protected. If the hotbed is started on the surface the latter part of February, 
 three feet of manure is necessary. If started the last of March, two feet will be suffi- 
 cient. 
 
 The frame for supporting the sashes should be 10 inches to 12 inches high in 
 front and 15 inches to 18 inches at the back, giving a drop of about 6 inches to the 
 sash. They are usually made 12 feet long to support four 6x3 feet sashes. The 
 sashes usually contain three rows of 10 x 12 inch glass. 
 
 The hotbed should be located on the south side of a building, hedge or fence 
 protected from cold and prevailing winds. 
 
 Two or three inches of cinders, sand or soil may be put on the manure inside the 
 frame if flats are to be used, or if the seed or plants are to be grown without flats, six 
 inches of good loam is necessary. The seed may be sown or plants put into the frame 
 about one week after the bed is made or as soon as the first violent heating h&» com- 
 menced to subside. For warm season vegetables the temperature .at the bottom of tlio 
 soil should have fallen to 90 degrees and for cool season vegetables to 70 degrees; up 
 to this time the frames should be left slightly open in the daytime to allow rank gases 
 to escape. 
 
Management of Hotbeds. 
 
 Owing to the volume of air in the hotbed being small great care is nef'f^s-ary not 
 to allow the temperature to run too high, nor to leave too much air on the bed and 
 chill the plants. In order to develop stocky, thrifty plants, slb much ventilation as 
 possible should be given. A close confined atmosphere invites disease, and produces 
 sickly, ' leggy ' or drawn plants. More ventilation can be given the cool-season than 
 is the case with the warm-season vegetables, and it is advisable to have two hotbeds, 
 or a division in the fraino if only one is used, so that these two '^■lasses can be handled 
 under the necessary different teiiipfrature conditions. 
 
 Watering should be done about the middle of the day, so that the plants and the 
 surface of the soil will have a chance to di-y uff before the frames are closed. The soil 
 should be kept damp throughout but not wet. 
 
 Cold Frame. 
 
 A cold frame is similar to a hotbed except that no manure is used to secure 
 bottom heat and the sun is depended upon entirely for heat. The soil inside the 
 frame may be dug up and the seed sown in it, or the seed may be sown in flats and 
 set into these frames for hardening oS. They require attention similar to hotbeds. 
 During very cold nights, like hotbeds, they may be protected by a mat covering or 
 shutters. Straw may be scattered over the glass to give this necessary protection. 
 
 Flats. 
 
 Flats or small boxes are neee^-^ary for convenience in handling plants. Flats 
 are usually made of f-inch lumber for sides and bottoms and |-inch ends. 13-inch x 
 2-3-inch and 3 inches deep is a convenient size. Old soap or similar ooxes may be cut 
 down for the purpose. They should all be of thee same size if possible to make use of 
 the hotbed space. The advantage of flats is that they can be moved from place to 
 place, and shifted from one bed to another as desired. The seed starts generally 
 better in flats and, when ready to transplant, the work can be done in^ij.^ with greater 
 comfort. Less soil will be required when flats are used. 
 
 When the plants are ready to harden off the flats can be moved to a cool bed, or 
 cold frame, and the bed be given up to plants requiring more heat. \Mien transplant- 
 ing time arrives the flats can be taken to the field, and the plants cut ovit with a square 
 of soil attaeliiil to tlumi anil tranviplaiitcJ willmnf sufferina iiiuch checlc. 
 
 Hardening off Plants. 
 
 Plants taken from warm quartir^ wliere lliey have been proteetod will sutler 
 much check when set directly in (lie open j^round, whireaa if gradually aeenstometl t^i 
 outside eonrlitions tiny will not niiml IIk^ clianKe. Ten 'lays or ,s,o before planting in 
 the open ground a -dart should be made to ^^radually harden the plants to field condi- 
 tions by a gradual lessening of tho proteelion tliey have lieen reeeiving. until finally 
 all protection is withdrawn during belli (lav and night. If there is danger from frost, 
 prr)tection should lie given in any ease. 
 
T 
 Cool and Warm Season Vegetables. 
 
 Vegetables may be divided into these two groups. The cool season vegetables do 
 best at a low temperature and may be started in the open early in May, or earlier, or 
 as soon as the ground is fit to work up properly. Peas, carrots, beets, parsnips, turnips, 
 radish, spinach, lettuce, parsley, cabbage, cauliflower, celery and onions are the prin- 
 cipal cool season crops. Plants for transplanting may be started at a temperature of 
 50 to 55 degrees, and if grown in an atmosphere above this temperature they may be 
 weak and unthrifty and not make satisfactory plants. 
 
 The warm season vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, corn, beans, 
 peppers, and egg plant, require a temperature not lower than 60 degrees to develop 
 properly. They cannot be set in the open ground until danger from frost is past or 
 toward the latter part of May. Seed of these sown in the open ground should not be 
 sown until the weather is settled and the ground warmed up, or after the middle of 
 May. Warm season vegetables should have warm soil and a southern exposure, 
 whereas the cool season vegetables may be put on cooler and later soils in more 
 northern situations.. For very early vegetables the southern exposure is always desir- 
 able. 
 
 Importance of Good Seed 
 
 Considering that one ounce of celery seed should produce 3,000 plants and one 
 ounce of cauliflower produce 1,500 plants, and that the crops from these if properly 
 grown would each be worth $75, the importance of securing the best seed of a 
 good strain cannot be overestimated. If one has to pay $3 to $4 an ounce for cauli- 
 flower seed he knows to be good it is better to do so than run the risk of losing a part 
 of the crop from the purchase of cheap seed. What is true of these crops is equally 
 true of all vegetable crops, and expense in the purchase of seed is a small considera- 
 tion as compared with the value of resultant crops. 
 
 SUCCESSIONAL SOWING. 
 
 In order to continue a supply of certain vegetables, successional sowings of the 
 same kind of seed may be made every ten days until the middle of June with cool 
 season crops such as peas, radish and lettuce, and later with beans. In this way often 
 a supply usually confined to a week or ten days may be spread over several weeks. 
 
 HAND WHEEL HOE. 
 
 One of the tools advisable where hand work ia necessary in maintenance tillage 
 operations is the double wheel hoe. With this the surface soil can be worked close up 
 to the plant and left in a fine condition, thus doing away with much of the costly 
 hand hoeing and weeding. It cannot be used to advantage in soils which have become 
 hard nor where weeds have grown large. It is indispensable in small gardens and in 
 onion growing, where a large amount of the work must be done by hand. 
 
8 
 THE PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL CONDITION OF SOILS. 
 
 A soil mny be rich in jilant food and the plant not be able to make use of it owing 
 to the physical conditions of the soil not bidng suitable for the plant's development. 
 Plants require food, but they require as well suitable conditions for root development, 
 and a uniform supply of moisture. A heavy compact soil may be made suitable in 
 texture by proper working at the right time, or it may be rendered practically useless 
 by improper working. 
 
 A soil that dries out quickly may be made retentive of moisture through the 
 incorporation of humus or vegetable matter, and proper cultivation. The reason why 
 stable manure often gives better results than commercial fertilizer is that it improves 
 the physical condition of the soil as well as supplying plant food. Commercial 
 fertilizers supply plant food only. Best results from the use of commercial fertilizers 
 are always obtained from soils in good physical condition and containing a fair 
 amount of humus. 
 
 Conditions modify practice, and a practice suitable to a heavy compact soil may 
 not be desirable on a light soil. Deep cultivation may be necessary on a heavy type 
 of soil, but not advisable on an open leaehy soil. It is more difficult to change the 
 physical condition of a soil than the chemical, hence the importance of directing more 
 thought to this phase of soil improvement. 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 The tomato requires a high temperature for best development and should be 
 given a warm, sunny situation. A well drained sandy loam is best. Well-rotted 
 manure at the rate of 10 to 15 torus per acre is advised. If applied in the spring, 
 plough it under to a depth of four inehes and work the ground by cultivating six 
 inches deep. Commercial fertilizers at the rate of 500 pounds per acre may be used 
 in place of manure. Nitrate of soda may be used to advantage by scattering it broad- 
 cast evenly around the plants at the rate of 150 pounds per acre after the plants hare 
 been set. 
 
 About the only time growth can be safely forced is during the first month or sis 
 weeks after beint,' set in the open, for at other tinier the vegetative growth may be 
 made at the expense of fruit production, hence the iniportanee of not overfertilizinsr. 
 e=peeially with nitrogenous manures, except during the early growth of the plant. 
 
 Seed started in the hotbed on the last of l\larch will make good plant? for setting 
 outside seven to eight weelvs later, or from the 20th to the hist of May. The seed is 
 sown on flats, and in two weeks time the seedlings nniy lie transp]aiit(>d to 3 to .'>> inch 
 pots, strawberry boxes or into flats, putting one jilant to a \k<{ or box or spacing the 
 plants four inches apart in the flat. Ih re lliey remain until ready for plantimr out, 
 v/lien they are removed and set in the o|m'ii soil wilhoiit ilislurbing the rcioi more tlian 
 is possible. The plants are takcai out of tbe pots by tapping I he edge of the pot on 
 sometliing solid, and from the strawlwrry boxes by luttiiig the box, Tluy are cut 
 from the flats in squares. 
 
 The planis are usually spaced 1 x 1 feet apart. If the int(>nlion is to >take lK.> 
 plants and train to a sinj;lc sloin thry may he set :i x 1' feel apail. 'I'lie stakes n:av 
 be li inches square hiiTiher or round small saplings. 'I'hrv should he .^i feet long and 
 
cost about one cent each. At the above distance about 10,000 plants can be put on 
 an acre. As the plants grow they are tied to the stake, this being necessary four or 
 five times during the season. All lateral growth which starts up from the axil of the 
 leaves is pinched out as it appears and only the one branch allowed to develop. When 
 the plant reaches a height of five feet it is pinched off and no more growth allowed 
 to form, thus throwing all of the energy into the formation of fruit. The leaves 
 should not be pinched off, however, as the matiirity of the fruit will not be hastened 
 by such a practice. 
 
 ONIONS. 
 
 Onions do best on a light loam soil rich in plant food. Light loams can be 
 worked to better advantage than heavier loams and do not dry out so badly during 
 summer. An abundance of available plant food is necessary if profitable crops are to 
 be obtained, and consequently a soil that has been manured for several seasons previous 
 should be selected. The land should be free from stone and weed seeds. 
 
 Onions may be grown in the same land year after year, and it cannot be made too 
 rich. Well-rotted barnyard manure applied in the fall and ploughed in shallow, about 
 four inches deep, is one of the best fertilizers. Fifteen tons per acre annually is a 
 good application. If the soil is well supplied with vegetable matter successful crops 
 may be grown with commercial fertilizers applied at the rate of 500 to 1,000 pounds 
 per acre. This is sown broadcast and harrowed in just before seeding. 
 
 The ground can be best prepared with the disc, springtooth, and smoothing harrows, 
 and should be well pulverized to a depth of four inches. 
 
 The seed is sown in rows on the level ground 12 to 14 inches apart at the 
 rate of SJ pounds per acre and i inch deep. A hand seeder is usually used. A seeder 
 and wheel hoe combined can be purchased from any seed merchant at a reasonable 
 rate. Seeding should be done as soon in the spring as possible, so that the plants will 
 get well established before the dry, hot weather of summer. 
 
 Maintenance tillage is done principally with the wheel hoe, and consists in keep- 
 ing the surface ground loose around the plants and all weeds from starting. 
 
 The falling down and withering of the tops indicates maturity, at which time the 
 onions should be pulled. They are left for a week to dry, after which they may be 
 topped and put into slatted crates, or put into these crates without topping, taken to 
 a shed and allowed to cure for two or three weeks, after which they are ready for 
 market. The advantage of the crate is that a small bulk of onions are together with 
 plenty of ventilation, which is very necessary for proper curing for storage or ship- 
 ment. They should not be stored in bags or in large piles in bulk. They may be 
 stored in slatted bins arranged one above another, 10 inches to 12 inches deep. If 
 stored the temperature should be kept as low as possible and the air be dry. 
 
 Onions may be started in flats in the hotbed or greenhouse ten to twelve weeks 
 before ready to plant, being set in the open ground early in May. They will transplant 
 easily, and good large plants will prove most satisfactory. About ten good plants 
 can be grown on a square inch. The seed should not be sown too thickly. One and 
 one-half to two pounds of seed will give sufficient plants to set an acre, spacing the 
 plants four inches apart in rows one foot apart. The disadvantage is the expense of 
 transplanting. For securing early onions and onions of large size this practice is 
 advisable. 
 
10 
 CABBAGE. 
 
 Any good garden soil will grow cabbage. A warm, well drained sandy loam, very 
 rich in plant food, is best for early cabbage. A northern exposure is best for late 
 cabbage and a heavy soil may be used. The cabbage is a gross feeder and there is no 
 danger from making the ground too rich. Twenty tons or more per acre of manure 
 can be used, and this may be supplemented with from 600 to 1,500 pounds of com- 
 mercial fertilizer for an acre. Commercial fertilizer is especially advisable for early 
 cabbage where the object is to develop marketable cabbage quickly. 
 
 If the ground has been manured in the fall and ploughed, it should be again 
 ploughed in the spring and thoroughly worked to a depth of six inches. 
 
 For early cabbage start the seed about March 15. The seedlings are transplanted 
 to two inches apart three weeks later, and wil] be ready for the open ground early in 
 May. The plants are usually set on the level in rows 30 inches apart and 18 inches 
 apart in the row. Late cabbage are usually grown from seed sown thinly in a cold 
 frame early in May and plants from these are set in the field about the middle of June, 
 spacing the plants in rows 32 inches apart and 20 to 22 inches apart in the row. 
 
 The usual maintenance tillage should be given during the summer, and the 
 ground not allowed to become hard and compact or to dry out. 
 
 In the storing of late cabbage cut the heads during a dry day and store where 
 good ventilation is possible. The air should be kept dry and the temperature as low 
 as possible. The heads should be placed on slatted shelves far enough apart to store 
 two or three tiers of cabbage, with a good chance for ventilation under the shphes. 
 A confined atmosphere renders cabbage storage impossible. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 The cauliflower requires a cool, rich loam A northern exposure is best. Con- 
 tinuous growth is important, and anything that tends to chork the plant in any way 
 should be avoided. Dry weather often results in failure, and where watering is 
 possible it may be advisable. For early and late cauliflower start the seed and handlp 
 the same as for early and late cabbage, except that more careful attention should n-^ 
 given to detail in the development of plants. Like the cabbage, it takes about seven 
 weeks to develop a stocky, properly hard.'uod-off plant. They may Iw spaced in tli.- 
 field the same as cabbiii^e. 
 
 When the heads are three to four inches in diinnetor the Ieiive<i sh.iuld be ti«i 
 together over the head in order to develop ,i gonil while flower. 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 ('..lory iMii.v l)e grown on alrnck^l, any .snil from lislil sandy to clay, and even niuek 
 or peaty soil may Ijc used. The ehief retiuiremenls arc- a sell icMcnIive of nKiisturi\ 
 but one well drained and rich in jilnnt I'nod. A rich -ainly loam produces firm, erisp 
 lieaiK, that l;oep best in stoi-uge and are superior in unalily lo llio averaco celery grown 
 on [ioaty or muck soils. 
 
 The ohjer^lion to pealy or n k soils is tliat unless carefully feiiilized. a pitliy 
 
 celery is obtained, and a lieavy clay is ubjiM't iomvlile beeanso of dillieully in working. 
 
11 
 
 Farmyard manure is the best fertilizer. Twenty to thirty tons per acre may be 
 used. The ground cannot be made too rich. Well rotted manure is advised. Land 
 fair in fertility with plenty of humus may be fertilized with commercial fertilizer 
 at the rate of 1,000 to 1,500 pounds per acre. The ground should be thoroughly 
 worked and the manure well incorporated with it by ploughing and cultivating. 
 
 For early celery the seed should be started about the middle of February and for 
 late crop one month later. It takes about three weeks for the seed to germinate. 
 The seed is usually sown in flats, and about six weeks after seeding may be trans- 
 planted, one to one and one-half inches apart, to other flats, where they remain until 
 planted out. This transplanting develops a very desirable root, and a stocky plant 
 necessary for successful transplanting. 
 
 The plants are usually set on the level ground in rows four inches apart and sir 
 inches apart in the row. If the soil has been freshly worked no watering will be 
 necessary, but if the ground has become dry this may be necessary. 
 
 Frequent cultivation to keep down weeds and form a fine earth mulch on the 
 surface is all that is required. 
 
 Early celery may be blanched by standing boards 10 to 12 inch wide oa 
 edge at each side of the row close up to the plant. Late celery is blanched usually 
 with earth. The plants Eti'e banked first when 8 inches to 10 inches of growth has 
 been made, and as the plants .develop more earth is banked up to them. In banking 
 one should hold the plants together while the earth is shovelled up to them, other- 
 wise soil will get into the heart of the plant, which should be avoided. 
 
 Early celery is dug, trimmed, washed, bunched and marketed as soon as fit. Late 
 celery is dug with roots attached, broken stalks are removed and the plants packed 
 upright, close together, in about five inches of sand or soil. An earth floor is best 
 because the soil does not dry out so quickly. 
 
 A fairly dry atmosphere and temperature as low as possible is necessary for 
 successful storage. The foliage of the plant should always remain dry, and the root 
 should be in contact with moist soil. If this soil dries out, water should be added, but 
 in no case pour any water on the foliage. To blanch green celery, growth should 
 continue after storage and light should be excluded. 
 
 MELONS. 
 
 Melons are started by planting the seed in three and one-half inch pots, or straw- 
 berry boxes answer the purpose, toward the last of March. About foar seeds are sown 
 to a pot. These are placed in a temperature of 65 degrees to 70 degrees. The plants 
 remain in these pots until ready to plant in the field. Should all of the seed start, 
 pull out all but two plants. 
 
 It is advisable to prepare the ground in the fall by manuring and ploughing. 
 Fifteen to twenty tons of manure per acre is advisable. In the spring as soon as the 
 ground is fit, it is worked up thoroughly, at least six inches deep. Furrows are then 
 run out ten feet apart, making a trench eight to ten inches deep and one foot wide, 
 into which six to eight inches of fermenting manure is forked and tramped. With a 
 plough or shovel six inches of earth is crowned up over this manured trench. The 
 hotbed frames are then placed over this row, sashes put on and closed tightly. 
 
12 
 
 After one week, or about tlie 8th of May, the plants are set, one pot to each sash, 
 or eight plants to a twelve foot frame. These are set right over the trench of manure 
 under the central point ut a sasli. The plants are disturbed as little as possible when 
 transplanting. 
 
 The frame must be carefully watched to give proper ventilation, and as time goes 
 on some watering may bo necessary. When the vines fill the frame it should be lifted 
 and blocked up to allow the vines to run out under the frame. About the middle of 
 July the frames may be removed entirely. 
 
 The ground should be hoed very shallow around the plants to keep down weed 
 growth. Do not plant too many plants together, and gi\c the plants a good chance to 
 develop. Pri>pcv]y enrich the soil, and avoid extn'nn/ moisture and temperature con- 
 ditions. A temperature of 65 (k'tiroes to 70 dpf-Tces is the most suitable for the melon. 
 
 The seed may be sown a month later and plants set in the open field the la=t of 
 Jlay or early in June, without giving any protection. 'I'his practice enables one to 
 develop good fruit, although not nearly so early as when the frame is used. 
 
 WATERMELONS AND CUCUMBERS. 
 
 These may be grown as outlined for melons. They may also be started from 
 seed sown right in the open ground. The hills are usually made in rows six feet apart 
 and four feet apart in the row, and about four plants allowed to develop to each hilL 
 The watermelon is planted in rows ten feet apart and four feet apart in the rows, two 
 plants to a hill. 
 
 SQUASH AND PUMPKINS. 
 
 For early squash or pumpkins the seed may be started in pots the last of April 
 Bnd set in the open field a month later. For late crops the seed may be sown direct 
 in the field after the middle of May, as soon as the ground warms up sonu;. 
 
 The bush vegetable marrow may be planted in rows five feet apart, and foi:r t'lvt 
 apart in the rows. The trailing squash and pumpkins should be planted in rows ten 
 feet apart, and the hills made eight feet apart in the rows. Three plants are sufficient 
 for a hill. 
 
 The hills may be preiiared by placing six inelies of well-rottoil manure in a siuico 
 four feet in dianjcter, and digging this in, working the ground six inches dtx'p. Or 
 the manure may be s|iread about four feet wide every ten feet, and plomlicj under. 
 Tlio advantage of this extra preparation and fertilization is to give the young plant a 
 vigorous start, 
 
 'i'lie ]ire|inration of tho whole of the soil shotdd bo similar t-o that given for 
 iritdons, i. c, manured in llie fall and plo\iglie<l. 
 
 Vtpelahlc marrow s<|uash may lie uscil as soon as dovelopod in size and before 
 fully matured. When fully malunMl they nuiy !..> k^pt all winter in n thoro\ighly dry, 
 fairly warm room.' The Hubbard and similar squash keep best in a dry room at a 
 tiiniierature of about W) decrees. Tlioy shoidd be hnrxested wheu the vines are thor- 
 oughly dry, and the fruit not lie bruised in liaiidling. 
 
 A warm situiitl<in should bo selected fur idl of the vine crops. 
 
13 
 CARROTS AND PARSNIPS, 
 
 These should be grown in deep, thoroughly prepared soil of loose open texture, 
 to admit of even root development. This is especially true in the case of parsnips, as 
 a heavy compact soil develops a poorly shaped and rooty parsnip. The ground may be 
 spring or fall manured, ploughed deeply and thoroughly worked. 
 
 The seed is .sown in the open ground usually before the middle of May, in rows 
 two and one-half feet apart, at the rate of two pounds per acre for carrots and four 
 pounds per acre for parsnips. The carrots may be thinned to two inches apart, and 
 the parsnips four inches. If carrots are spaced too far apart in the row they become 
 too large for table use. The ground should be rich enough and sufficient moisture 
 maintained by frequent cultivation to continue an even growth throughout the season. 
 The root should be kept covered with soil to the top, preventing the top of the root 
 from becoming green, which is objectionable for market carrots. 
 
 BEETS. 
 
 Beets for early use should be started as early as possible on well prepared ground. 
 For winter use seeding toward the last of May, or early in June, is advised, as the 
 beet does not become so large. Any good soil will develop good beets providing a 
 uniform growth is maintained. A checked growth has a tendency to produce fibre. 
 
 Six pounds of seed per acre is usually used. The seed is sown in rows two and 
 Dne-haM feet apart, and the plants thinned to three to four inches apart. 
 
 TURNIPS. 
 
 The early turnips may be sown as soon as the ground is fit, in well prepared soil. 
 The Swede turnip should be sown about the last of May. They do best on a good 
 loam retentive of moisture. Continuous growth is necessary to develop good quality. 
 Like most of the root crops, they develop best during the damp, cool fall weather, and 
 the advantage of late seeding is that they make little growth during the hot summer, 
 developing a succulent tissue in the fall. Swede turnips planted early are very liable 
 to be checked in growth during the heat of the summer, developing a root containing 
 much fibre, and lacking in quality. 
 
 SALSIFY. 
 
 The salsify, like the parsnip, requires a deep, loose, rich soil. It may be sown at 
 the same time as the parsnip, and thinned to three inches apart in the row. 
 
 RADISH. 
 
 The radish may be sown as soon as the ground is fit to work, in rows one foot 
 apart, and the plants thinned to one inch apart. Successional sowing may be made 
 one week apart until the first of June. 
 
14 
 PEAS. 
 
 Garden peas may be sown as 8oon as the grround is fit to work. The land should 
 be fall manured with ten to fifteen tons of well rotted manure per acre, and ploughed. 
 This is well worked in the sprinj: to a depth of five inches. The seed is usually sown 
 •in rows two and one-half feet apart, and the seed planted one inch apart in the row. 
 
 Dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties do not require staking. It is advisable to stake 
 the tall-growing sorts. 
 
 If one variety only is used, successional sowings should be made every week or 
 ten days until the first of June. The garden pea is a cool season vegetable, and will 
 not do well during the heat of summer. The season may be extended also by planting 
 late maturing varieties. The early seeding is usually made one to one and one-half 
 inches deep; the later seeding, two to three inches deep. 
 
 BEANS. 
 
 Beans do best on a fairly rich soil, and unlike the pea, require a warm situation 
 and warm soil. While the pea will do well on a fairly heavy soil, the bean likes a 
 loose, friable soil for best development. The seed should be sown not earlier than the 
 middle of May. They are usually planted in rowa two and one-half feet apart, and 
 the seed dropped two to three inches apart and one to one and one-lialf inches deep. 
 
 Successional sowings may be made every two weeks until the middle of July, for 
 the purpose of extending the season into the fall. 
 
 COEN. 
 
 A warm, friable, rich soil should be selected for garden corn. The seed is sown 
 in hills three and one-half feet apart each way, and five plants allowed to develop in 
 a hill. The seed is sown soon after the middle of May. Early and late varieties 
 should be planted to extend the supply of table corn into the fall. As is the case with 
 peas and beans, constant surface cultivation to keep the weeds down and maintain a 
 loose surface mulch is necessary. 
 
 EGG PLANTS AND PEPPERS. 
 
 These may be handled the same as tdnintoos for plantiiiir out. It is bettor not to 
 set them in the open ground until tlio first i>i Jimo. They rcMuiro a rioli soil. Thii 
 egg plants may be set in rows throe fi-ct upart, icnd two I'eot. apart in the rows. The 
 peppers are set three feet by one foot apart in tlu^ niws. 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Spinach is one of our best [Jot In rhs. It should bo snwn very onrly, usually in 
 rows one foot apart, and the plants thinned to two inches npnrt Tlu- ground cannot 
 be made too rich for this plant. The ricb.T Mi(> soil tlu- 1p.<!s liable are flio plants to go 
 to Heed quickly. A later sowing may bo miuN,' in the iiiiildlo of May and Juno 1. Tliis 
 
IS 
 
 hist seeding should be watered some, if dry weather prevails. A fall crop may be 
 obtained by seeding the last of August on well prepared soil. This is a cool season 
 crop, and will not thrive during the heat of summer. 
 
 LETTUCE. 
 
 Any good garden soil will grow lettuce. The ground should be rich and fairly 
 friable. The seed may be sown inside six weeks before planting outside is possible. 
 The plants are developed as is the case with cabbage. They may be set in rows one 
 foot apart, and six inches apart in the row. 
 
 Seed may be sown in the open ground as soon as it is fit to work, and the plants 
 thinned to four or six inches apart. Successional sowings may be made every two 
 weeks until the first of June. Seed may be sown the last of August for a fall crop on 
 well prepared soil. 
 
 PARSLEY. 
 
 Parsiley may be g^rown from seed sown ten weeks before planting-out time in the 
 early spring, and the plants handled the same as lettuce. The seed may be sown in 
 the open ground in the early spring. This is not a very particular plant as to soil 
 requirements. 
 
 SWEET HERBS. 
 
 Summer savory, sage, and sweet marjoram may be grown from seed sown to the 
 open ground in the early spring. They are not particular as to soil requirements, 
 although a fairly rich, friable soil is best. Summer savory and sweet majoram should 
 be cut when in full bloom, and the sage should be cut before fall rains sand the foliage 
 too much. To prevent this sanding of the foliage, the ground at each side of the 
 plants may be mulched with straw. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Asparagus may be started from seed sown in rich, well-prepared soil in the early 
 spring, in rows about two and one-haK feet apart, dropping the seed three inches 
 apart in the row and covering one inch deep. These will make good plants for plant- 
 ing permanently the following spring. One-year-old plants are better than older ones, 
 for the reason that they suffer less from transplanting, and will develop a good cutting 
 bed as soon as if older plants were used. Select the best developed plants, discarding 
 all inferior ones. 
 
 The best soil for asparagus is a rich, deep loam, well drained. Asparagus may be 
 grown on any type of soil, from light to heavy loam. A stony, gravelly, or heavy clay 
 soil should be avoided. The ground should be as rich as it is possible to make it. 
 Thirty to forty tons of stable manure per acre may be applied at the start, and the 
 ground ploughed deeply and well worked. 
 
 After this thorough preparation tillage, plough out V-shaped furrows by turning 
 two furrows at one side and one at the other, spacing them five and one-half to six 
 feet apart. The plants are set in these furrows eighteen inches apart by shovelling 
 
10 
 
 oat some of the loose soil to give a good level base to set the plant on, spreading the 
 roots in all directions. The crown of the plant should be about six inches below the 
 level of the soil. Cover the plant with three inches of soil, and tramp the soil firmly. 
 After the plant makes growth thee furrow may be cultivated in level around it. 
 
 Frequent cultivation during the summer to keep the surface soil loose and all 
 weed growth down is all that is required. 
 
 An annual application of manure at the rate of 20 tons per acre is advisable. 
 This may be applied in the fall or spring, spread broadiast and ploughed under. Com- 
 mercial fertilizer at the rate of 800 to 1,500 pounds per acre may be used in place of 
 manure, if the soil contains a good supply of humus. 
 
 It is advisable to plough lightly toward the plants in the fall, crowning the soil 
 over the row. In the early spring this is worked level again with disc and smoothing 
 harrows, making the surface in good tilth to a depth of three to four inches. 
 
 Cutting is commenced the third year after the plants have been set, and may be 
 continued until the middle of July, but not later. In the late fall the stalks are cut 
 off with a scythe, removed and burned. 
 
 RHUBAKB. 
 
 Rhubarb thrives best in a deep, rich, mellow soil. A clay soil or one with a hard- 
 pan subsoil should be avoided. The ground should be heavily manured, and worked 
 deeply. It is impossible to overfeed this plant. The tendency to proiluce seed stalks 
 will be greatly lessened by fertilizing heavily. The plantation may be started from 
 seedling plants one or two years old, or from division of the crown. In dividing the 
 crown each piece should have at least one good strong eye. The planting is done in 
 the spring, and the plant set so that the top of the bud or eye is level with the soil. 
 
 Old plantations may be improved by ploughing off the side of the old plants, 
 manuring heavily, and cultivating thoroughly, or the plants may be lifted, divided, 
 and reset into fresh soil. A plantation properly handled and thoroughly manured 
 should give good results for ten years. 
 
 The early spring growth depends largely upon the leaf trrowth made the previov.s 
 season, hence the importance of not removing too much foliage at once, and encourag- 
 ing good strong foliage during the summer and fall, for the purpose of storing in the 
 root, nourishment for the next spring's growth. The importance of cultivation durintr 
 the summer, keeping the soil well worked and aU weed growth down is therefore 
 obvious. 
 
 The usual practice is to njauure in the fall and work this in the following spring. 
 Some follow the practice of manuring heavily, which prevents the frost from pene- 
 trating the ground, and then remove the buB< of this in the early spring; others allow 
 this heavy mulch to remain around the plant during euianiei-, do not cultivate, and 
 pull out any weeds that uiuy start. 
 
17 
 
 DESIRABLE VARIETIES OF VEGETABLES AND SMALL FRUITS FOR THE 
 
 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 
 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Asparagus. — Argenteuil. 
 
 Beans. — Eed Valentine, Stringless and Refugee or 1000 to 1 (green pod) ; Davis Wax, 
 Keeney's Wax and Wardell's Wax (golden pod) ; Lima Beans, Henderson's 
 Bush. 
 
 Beets. — Egyptian Turnip, Eclipse, Half Long Blood. 
 
 Kale. — Green Curled Scotch. 
 
 Brocoli. — ^White Cape. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts. — Improved Dwarf. 
 
 Carrots — Chantenay, French Market and Danvers. 
 
 Cauliflower. — Extra Early Erfurt. 
 
 Cabbage. — Paris Market (very early), Jersey Wakefield, Early Spring (early). Succes- 
 sion (medium), Autumn King, Savoy Drumhead, Danish Roundhead (late). 
 
 Celery. — Paris Golden and Perfection Heartswell. 
 
 Corn. — Peep O'Day (very early). Early Cory (early). Golden Bantam, Crosby's, Early 
 (medium), Country Gentleman (late). 
 
 Cucumbers. — ^White Spine. 
 
 Citron. — Colorado Preserving. 
 
 Egg Plants. — New York Improved and Black Beauty. 
 
 Kohl Eabi. — Early Purple Vienna. 
 
 Lettuce. — Grand Rapids and Unrivalled. 
 
 Melon, Musk. — ^Paul Rose, Montreal, Rocky Ford and Hackensack. 
 
 I^lelon, Water. — Cole's Early. 
 
 Onions. — Yellow Globe Danvers, Large Red Wethersfield, Mammoth Silver King. 
 
 Parsnips. — Selected Hollow Crown. 
 
 Parsley. — Champion Moss Curled. 
 
 Peppers. — Cayenne and Ruby King. 
 
 Peas.— Alaska (very early), Thomas Laxton (early), Admiral, Dewey, Heroine 
 (medium). Stratagem^ Juno, Telephore. 
 
 Pumpkin. — Calhoun. 
 
 Radish. — French Breakfast, Icicle. 
 
 Winter Radish. — Long Black Spanish. 
 
 Spinach. — Victoria. 
 
 Salsify. — Sandwich Island. ^ 
 
 Squash.— English Vegetable Marrow (summer, fall and winter), Hubbard (winter). 
 
 Tomatoes.— Earliana and June Pink (early). Early Jewel (medium), Trueker'e 
 Favourite (late). 
 
 Turnips. — Golden Ball, Extra Early Milan. 
 
 Swede Turnips. — Hall's Westbmy. 
 
 Rhubarb. — Victoria, Linnaeus. 
 
 20144—2