[ *^mm-' -^•'^ Wi <^)^gjy^y'--^w ■^jS <<^- ■..-•" PfCTURBSQUE AN DIEGO r ^ k i^iailii^.M4ii)i^ii^ - ^imta '< ^*iim ^ Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028883754 % Vt\\,\> a\A.as .}laff|f«r'^~1^lc^oC, X o fin O O =s m w CD in o Picturesque San Diego, HISTORICAL Descriptive Notes. By DOUGLAS GUNN, San Diego, California, Jialy 1, 1887. CHICAGO : KNIGHT & LEONARD CO., PRINTERS, 1887. %. ; "n/f> Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 18S7, By DOUGLAS GUNN, in the oflfice of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. go. W.. B. CONKEY, Bookbinder,. Chicago. NOTE BY THE AUTHOR. DURING the author's proprietorship of the " San Diego Union," for nearly eighteen years, it was his custom to present an annual review of the progress of City aud County. In later years a demand arose for these reviews in convenient pamphlet form, for mailing; and, as the demand increased, the scope of the work was enlarged. In 1885 the pamphlet was published under the title of "San Diego," and more than twenty thousand copies were called for. In 1886 the work was carefully revised, with much additional matter, and four editions were published, more than thirty-five thousand copies having been demanded by the public. In the present year the writer has been strongly urged to prepare a new edition, embracing the remarkable facts of our recent development, and to publish it in illustrated form. The illustrations (so-called) hitherto published have been gross caricatures, and he determined, if he should attempt to undertake such work at all, that it should be well done. Accordingly a contract was made with the American Photogravure Company, of Chicago, and Mr. Herve Friend, one of the ablest photographic artists in the country, was engaged to take a series of views throughout the County. Accompanied by the author, Mr. Friend took the field early in March, and together they covered over fifteen hundred miles of travel, securing views of the most characteristic features of the great "back country" of gan Diego. A series of City and neighborhood views were also taken by Mr. Friend, the whole number. County and City, being over one hundred. Of these, seventy-two of the most characteristic were selected for the present ' work, and photogravures made from them. It is believed that no work of so expensive a character, illustrative of a section, has hitherto been published. The edition has been limited to one thousand copies, and the price fi^d at ten dollars per copy, barely covering the cost. A cheaper edition, in pamphlet form, illustrated with wood engravings of the finest kind, will hereafter be issued, and this book (entitled "San Diego Illustrated") will be sold for one dollar. The writer leaves his work to the judgment of the public. 3 CONTENTS. AUTHOR'S NOTE INTRODUCTORY — Growth of Southern California— Influence of Railroad Extension — Progress During the present Decade — Tabular Exhibit of Population and Wealth — Foolish Jealousy — Misrepresentation of the Southern Counties — The Development of the State Traced from the Gold Mining Days — Significant OflBcial Statistics — A Striking Comparison — Trend of Population Southward — No Spasmodic "Boom" — A Steady Movement for Twenty Years — ^ Future of Southern California — San Diego County in the Lead — Latest Railroad Extensions — ^ The Outlook .... g-17 HISTORICAL — Foundation of the Mission San Diego, July 16, 1769 — Early Years of the Mission — Pueblo of San Diego — Conquest of California — Battle of San Pasqual, December 6, 1846 — Emory's Notes on San Diego — County Organization, 1850 — Recent History iq-26 CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO — Geographical Situation — The Harbor — Official Coast Survey Reports upon its Excellence and Commercial Importance — The City — Present Population, Wealth, etc. — Street Railways — Railroad Connections with the Interior — Public Improvements — Water Supply — Societies and Public Organiza- tions — Churches and Schools — Business Enterprise, and Social Life . . . 27-31 A CLIMATE THAT HAS NO EQUAL— A Ten Years' Record at the Signal Service Sta- tion — An Exhibit without Parallel — No " Heated Term"; "No Cold Snap"; No Hurricanes and "Blizzards" — Clear Skies, Sunny Days, and Pleasant Breezes — Testimony of the late Professor Agassiz — Comparative Table of Maximums and Minimums .............. 31-37 FOR RECREATION AND HEALTH SEEKERS — Popular Places of Resort— Tia Juana, the Monument, Ocean Beach, La Jolla, Carlsbad, Del Mar, Oceanside, Murrieta, Fall Brook, El Cajon, Escondido, Coronado Beach — The Most Perfect Seaside Resort in the World — Drives near Town — Hunting and Camping Trips in the Interior — Shooting and Fishing ............ 38-41 COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE OF SAN DIEGO — The Value of the Harbor Early Pointed Out — Its Recognition as a Pacific Railroad Terminus — Opinion of Gen. W. J. Palmer in His Report of Transcontinental Railroad Surveys — Recent Railroad Development — San Diego the Seaport of the Southern Coast — Commanding Situa- tion of the Port for Ocean Traffic — Recent Establishment of Bonded Warehouses and Large Shipping Interests ........... 42-46 5 6 CONTENTS. COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO — Topography — Agricultural and Grazing Area — Subdivision of Grants — The Three Great Divisions of the County — Products— Fruit-Growing — The County Fair of 1885 — A Retrospect — The "Back Country" of San Diego- Cultivation of Small Tracts — Irrigation and Rainfall . . ■ • ■ 47-54 PROFITS OF FRUIT CULTURE — Grape-Growing — Raisins ; Superiority of the San Diego Product — The Olive, the Orange, and the Lemon — The Apple — Mountain Orchards — Miscellaneous Fruits 54-60 ADVANCE OF THE COUNTY— Assessed Property Valuation — Population — Public Land Entries — Rapid Settlement in the Interior — Irrigation Development — An Abundant Water Supply — Report of Assistant State Engineer Schuyler — The San Diego River Flume Enterprise ........•• 61-62 POINTS NEAR THE BAY — Chollas Valley — National City and Rancho — Sweetwater, Otay, and Tia Juana — Important Enterprises — Old Town and Mission Valley — Spring Valley — El Cajon 63-7° INTERIOR AND COAST POINTS— Janal and Jamul — The Eastern Valleys — Potrero — Campo — Valle de las Viejas — Santa Maria Valley — San Vicente — Poway Valley — Las Pefiasquitas — Del Mar — San Dieguito — Encinitas — Bernardo — San Pasqual Valley — San Marcos — Escondido — Agua Hedionda — San Luis Rey Valley — Oceanside — Apex — Moosa — Mt. Fairview- — Bear Valley — Pala — Pauma — Teme- cula — Pauba — Murrieta — Fall Brook — Santa Rosa — Elsinore — San Jacinto — Rock House — Pinacate — Perris . . . . . . . . . . . 71-84 THE MOUNTAIN REGION — Ballena- Santa Isabel — Mesa Grande — The Julian Country — Warner's Ranch — Oak Grove — The Palomar ..... 85-93 GENERAL INFORMATION — Price of Living "in San Diego County — Farm and House- hold Supplies, Foods, etc. — House Rents — Cost of Building Homes — Decided Advantages of a Winterless Climate — Business, Industrial, and Investment Oppor- tunities — How to Come to San Diego — The Railroad Routes from the East . . 95-98 PHOTOGRAVURES. 1. Old Palm Trees, foot of Presidio Hill Frontispiece. 2. Point Loma, and Entrance to San Diego Harbor — from Coronado Beacb. 3. Ruins of the Old Mission, San Diego. 4. Old Mission of San Diego, from the Olive Grove. 5. Scene of the Battle of San Pasqual, December 6, 1846. 6. Mission San Luis Rey. 7. Bell Tower, Pala Mission. 8. San Diego, looking West — Point Loma in Right Distance, 9. San Diego, looking Southwest — Coronado Beach opposite. 10. San Diego, looking Southeast. ir. City Water Front — Babcock & Story Wharves. 12. City Water Front — Pacific Coast Steamship Co.'s Wharves. 13. County Court House, San Diego. 14. Interior Consolidated National Bank, San Diego. 15. The " Russ" Public School, San Diego. 16. Morse-Pierce Building, corner Sixth and F streets, San Diego. 17. St. Paul's Episcopal Church,. San Diego. 18. Residence of A. E. Horton. 19. First National Bank, corner Fifth and E streets, San Diego. 20. Woolwine, Sprigg & Nerney's Abstract and Real, Estate Office, corner Fourth and D streets. 21. The Dells, Chollas Valley — Suburbs of San Diego. 22. Initial Monument, marking Mexican Boundary. 23. Tia Juana — American Side. 24. Tia Juana — Mexican Side. 25. " Point of Rocks " — i. 26. " Point of Rocks ' — 2. 27. " Point of Rocks'' — 3. 28. Hotel del Coronado — Coronado Beach. 29. The Caves, La JoUa. 30. La JoUa Beach. 31. Cathedral Rock, La JoUa. 32. " Ocean Beach." 33. Seaside View at Del Mar. 34. Escondido — Old Ranch House and Orange Orchard. 35. View on Linda Lake, El Cajon Valley, 15 miles from San Diego. 36. The Hotel at Murrietta. 37. Temecula Canon — i. "The Big Curve," California Southern Railroad. 38. Temecula Cafion — 2. 39. Temecula Canon — 3. 7 8 PHOTOGRAVURES. 40. Santa Margarita Ranch House — from the Vineyard. 41. Courtyard, Couts' Estate, Guajome. 42. View near Entrance to Bear Valley. 43. View in San Pasqual Valley — Bernardo River. 44. "Eagle's Nest" — Agua Caliente Mountains. 45. Santa Rosa Mountains, near Elsinore. 46. View from "The Glen," Agua Tibia — Pala in Distance. • 47. San Jacinto Mountain. 48. The Cajan Mountains, from the Northeast. 49. Public School (Banner District) near mouth of San Felipe Canon. 50. Home and Orchard of John Mitchell, Fall Brook. 51. Agua Tibia — The Pond. 52. Home and Orchard of James Madison, Julian. 53. View at Elsinore Lake, West Side. 54. Home and Orchard of Chester Gunn, Julian. 55. View in Poway Valley. 56. San Diego River, North of El Cajon. 57. Cuyamaca Lake — Storage Water of San Diego Flume Co. 58. Diverting Dam, San Diego River — San Diego Flume Co. 59. Upper Valley of the San Diego River — " Capitan Grande." 60. Falls (146 feet) East Branch of San Diego River. 61. Santa Isabel Creek. 62. Falls of Pauma Creek. 63. View near Farm of Hubert Howe Bancroft, Spring Valley. 64. Water Works of San Diego Town and Land Company (from a Pen Drawing). 65. Gedney's Orchard, Mesa Grande. 66. Public School, Spencer Valley, near Julian. 67. Orchard and Farm of B. S. Sheckler, Cottonwood. 68. Campo. 69. Entrance to Colorado Desert, mouth of Mountain Springs Cafion. 70. Mountain Scenery, Agua Caliente — Overlooking Warner's Ranch. 71. Indian Village, Agua Caliente. 72. Indian Village and Church at Pauma, Upper San Luis Rey Valley. cd Q m o CC fl o o o o I (1 o 03 Q CO o p-l c pa c cd ta" (D C o o INTRODUCTORY. A LITTLE more than twenty years ago the seven counties of Southern California, embracing nearly one-third of the area of the State, numbered a population of scarcely more than twenty-five thousand, and the assessed valuation of all the property within their boundaries was less than ten millions of dollars. To-day the estimated population (using the most conservative figures) is nearly two hundred and fifty thotisand, and the assessed valuation of property is about one hundred and eighty millions. And yet, it may be truth- fully said that this section of California is only in the beginning of its development. The southern counties were, during the first twenty years of the history of the State under American rule, devoted almost exclusively to cattle raising. The land remained as we found it when it passed from Mexico to the United States. The wonderful capacity of the soil for fruit growing and general agjiculture was hardly suspected. The means of communication were restricted to the weekly trips from San Francisco of small coasting steamers, and to a few long and poorly maintained wagon roads in the interior. The attention of the world was first drawn to Southern California by its matchless climate. When the completion of the first overland railroad brought the Pacific Coast into nearer relations with the East- ern States, tourists began to visit the Southern Coast towns by steamer from San Francisco. They found here a climate surpassing that of the most famous health-resorts of Europe, and carried the report of it home with them. Gradually the number of winter visitors increased. The worn-out man of business, and the invalid whose existence was a continued struggle with disease, found here fresh vigor and a new lease of life. Men discovered th a t in Southern Cali- fornia they could live, and could enjoy life as they could nowhere else. The winter visitors finally became permanent residents. These lO PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. were chiefly men of capital, and they began to look about them for occupation and investment. Thus, new fields of enterprise were sought out and developed, and a new order of things was gradually estab- lished. It was found that the soil yielded its rewards to cultivation with less reluctance than in the older States, and that lands seemingly arid and sterile were in reality of remarkable fertility. Land was abundant and cheap, and, as the experimental stages of cultivation were passed, horticulture and agriculture displaced the grazing in- terest. This change was effected slowly. The people of the country themselves hardly realized the work they were doing. The first intelligent observer whose mind grasped the possibilities of Southern California and predicted its future, was Charles Nordhoff, whose writings in 1872-73 gave the section a world-wide fame. Yet among the people whose magnificent coming prosperity was foretold by his prophetic pen there were few who heartily believed his report, and the press of some of our towns, in reprinting his papers, added qualifying comments, and declared that his enthusiasm had led him into exag- gerated views of the resources of the country. He has lived to see his predictions much more than fulfilled. In the decade from 1870 to 1880 the population of these counties had increased from 39,729 to 79,114, and the assessed value of pro- perty (including railroads) from $14,666,710 to $46,529,828. But this was small compared with the advance that followed. In the seven and a half years, from 1880 to July i, 1887, inclusive, about 166,000 people were added to the population, and about $135,000,000 to the taxable valuation of Southern California ; and more than one-third of this increase in population and wealth has been gained within the last four years. The period of active growth began with the extension of the Southern Pacific Railroad to Los Angeles in 1875-76. Rail com- munication had been the one thing lacking ; all the other conditions for the wonderful development we are now witnessing had existed from the beginning, and, when the railroad came, there had been sev- eral years of faithful pioneer work done in anticipation of it. Los Angeles County, the first to enjoy rapid transportation, had several years start in the race, and thus took the lead of her neighbors ; but the sister counties have been fast catching up, and some of them are passing her in rapidity of recent growth. A tabular exhibit of the INTRODUCTORY. 11 Statistics of population and wealth, of tlie southern counties, from 1880 to 1887, is herewith given. The United States Census Report for 1880, and accepted estimates for i885-'86-'87, of population, and the annual reports of the State Board of Equalization (excepting for the current year) , are the authorities employed in preparing this table : POPULATION. County. 1880. 1885. 1886. 1887. Increase in 7J^ years. Percentage of Increase. San Diego San Bernardino . . . Los Angeles San Luis Obispo . ■ Ventura Santa Barbara . . . Kern 8,618 7,786 33,381 9,142 5.073 9,513 5,601 19,500 17,000 72,500 17,500 8,000 15,000 7,500 35,000 20,000 80,000 20,000 10,000 17,000 10,000 50,000 30,000 100,000 22,000 13,000 20,000 12,000 41,382 22,214 66,619 12,858 7,927 10,487 6,399 480. 285. 200. 141. 156. no. 114. Total.... 79,114 157,000 192,000 232,000 152,886 ASSESSED VALUATION.* County. 1880. 1885. 1886. i887.t Increase in 7J^ years. Percentage of Increase. San Diego San Bernardino ■ . ■ Los Angeles San Luis Obispo ■ • Ventura Santa Barbara . . . Kern $2,570,836 2,960,590 16,447,673 4,678,048 3,331,979 5,487,053 4,117,875 $7,071,824 7,109,712 32,814,543 9,509,482 4,574,208 8,378,165 5,103,017 19,961,282 8,089,305 37,560,880 9,792,939 4,693,698 8,585,485 5,367,640 $19,542,864 16,000,000 92,000,000 11,814,554 7,500,000 11,885,446 7,266,492 $16,972,028 13,039,410 75,552,327 7,136,506 4,168,021 6,398,393 3,148,617 660. 440. 459- 153- 125- 117. 76. Total.... ^39,594,054 $74,560,951 $84,051,229 $166,009,356 $68,554,590 The extraordinary advance of Southern California during the present decade has excited a foolish jealousy in the northern and cen- tral portions of the State — foolish, because California, with an area nearly as large as that of France, with its remarkable diversities in soil * Railroads in California running through more than one county are assessed for their entire mileage by the State Board of Biualization, and the tax is apportioned to the several counties according to the mileage ■within their boundaries. In the above tabulation the railroad assessment is omitted. Adding the apportionment of lastyear to the valuations given for the present year, the total valuation for each county in 1887 will be approxi- mately as follows: San Diego, $23,000,000; San Bernardino, $21,000,000; Los Angeles, $94,500,000; San Luis Obispo, $12,000,000; Ventura, $7,500,000; Santa Barbara, $12,000,000; Kern, $10,000,000, — total, $180,000,000. fThe valuations given for 1887 are partially estimated, and are based upon the yet incomplete returns of the assessors for the current year. Enough footings had been made, however, to enable estimates to be given with approximate correctness. San Diego, Los Angeles, and San Bernardino are official." 12 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. and climate, and with its infinite variety of resources, is an empire in itself, and is destined in the certain development of the next quarter century to become the wonder of the world. Bach section has its own peculiar resources and advantages, which are sure to be developed and appreciated. In the early history of the State the drift of population tended naturally to the gold-mining sections in the north; the southern counties, devoted exclusively to cattle raising, were long called the "Cow Counties." As trade with the mining regions developed, San Francisco sprang swiftly into great commercial importance, and the counties of Central California having easiest access to the great Bay were those in which the cultivation of the soil was earliest begun. So, Northern and Central California, with San Francisco as the entrepot and commercial metropolis, for many years held almost the entire population and wealth of the State. The south was practically a vast stock range, deemed of value for nothing else; its population was limited to a few great cattle-kings and their vaqueros^ or herders, and the traders in a few widely separated towns. When the gold mines began to be exhausted, the populous towns of the placer mining counties dwindled into insignificance; the great streams of treasure from the northern section had been poured into San Francisco, con- tributing to the upbuilding of that metropolis and swelling the aggregate of the world's wealth, and the land was left barren; the population naturally followed the course of the lost treasure, tending cityward and to the central agricultural counties. There was a con- centration of wealth, industry, and population around San Francisco Bay and in the center of the State. Gradually the almost forsaken mining counties began to recover from the change and looked to other resources, and they discovered that their soil, under the plow, yielded more substantial wealth than they gathered from it with pick and shovel in the "golden days." But their progress was necessarily slow ; they lacked transportation facilities ; the drift had so long been toward the center, where river steamers and local railroads gave swift communication with the metropolis, that it was difficult to turn immigration toward the more remote interior. It was not until the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad with the branches that fol- lowed its construction that the northern counties began to really grow again. Within the last ten or twelve years, San Francisco and the railroad magnates have begun to appreciate the importance of develop- INTRODUCTORY. I3 ing that section of the State. San Francisco, to retain her com- mercial supremacy, and the railroad people to make business for their lines and to dispose of their lands, are united in interest. The build- ing of rival transcontinental lines on the north and south has developed a keen competition, both in commerce and railway traffic. Hence the recent strenuous effort to "boom" Northern California, and the expressions of jealousy over the unexampled progress and prosperity of Southern California. Various explanations have been volunteered by our northern neighbors to account for the movement in the south. We are told that it is due solely to "persistent advertising"; that it is a "mush- room growth," a "speculative boom"; that we have "no real back country," and "no water," that there is nothing in Southern Cali- fornia but "climate," etc. Elaborately prepared maps, circulars, pamphlets, and supplements to San Francisco, Sacramento, and other newspapers, perverting statistics, suppressing facts, and inventing a new physical geography for California, wherein the whole southern section is conspicuously lettered as "barren hills," have been distri- buted by the hundred thousand, and are still being distributed through- out the United States and in foreign lands. Referring to the com- parative wealth of Southern and Northern California, a leading Sacra- mento paper recently gravely stated that the southern counties would make a small showing but for the State apportionment of railroad assessments, whereas the fact is that the last apportionment of the State Board gave the southern counties a little over fourteen millions and the northern counties nearly thirty-five millions. The annual report of the "California Immigration Association" (a San Francisco institution), for 1886, gives a list of eleven counties which, it says, "exhibit the most rapid growth in population and wealth." This list includes one southern county, but excludes San Diego, San Bernar- dino, and IvOS Angeles, which have grown faster than all of the rest of the State, including San Francisco itself. According to the last report of the State Board of Equalization (Schedule "B," p. \2)^ seven of the above mentioned eleven counties show a percentage of decrease in wealth; while only four, including the southern county, show an increase. This unworthy work of misrepresentation, which is expressly designed to turn aside the tide of immigration from Southern to Northern California — to "boom" one section of the State at the ex- 14 PICTURESQUE SAN DiEGO. pense of another, — short-sighted, and doomed to failure as it is, is backed by powerful influence and great capital ; and it is for this rea- son that the writer has deemed it proper to refer to the subject more at length than he would otherwise be disposed to do. Some very significant facts, wholly drawn from ofi&cial sources, will be given: The increase in the assessed valuation of all the coun- ties of California in 1886 over 1880 was $161,151,252; the decrease in the same period was $28,082,698 — making the net increase for the first seven years of the present decade $133,068,554. Of this gain $105,- 555,069 was made in the nineteen counties lying south of San Fran- cisco, and only $27,513,485 in the city and county of San Francisco and the thirty-two counties north of that metropolis. The seven coun- ties of Southern California proper made nearly 62 per cent greater gain than San Francisco and the thirty-two counties northward com- bined. Let us now compare six representative counties of Northern and Southern California, — Sacramento, Nevada, and Shasta, in the north, and Los Angeles, San Diego, and San Bernardino in the south : In 1880 Sacramento County, the seat of the State capital, had an assessed valuation of $24,379,180, and a population of 34,391; in 1886 the valuation had fallen to $23,963,535, and the population had only grown to about 45,000. Los Angeles County in 1880 had an assessed valuation of $16,- 447,673, and a population of 33,379; in 1886 the valuation had increased to $37,560,880, and the population to 80,000. In 1880 Nevada County, the principal county of Northern Cali- fornia, had a taxable valuation of $8,260,178, and a population of 20,- 827; in 1886 the valuation of property had fallen to $5,187,095, and her population to less than 20,000. San Diego County in 1880 had a property valuation of $2,570,. 836, and a population of 8,618; in 1886 the valuation had increased to $9,961,282, and the population to more than 35,000. In 1880 Shasta County had a taxable valuation of $2,432,614, and a population of 9,492; in 1886, after persistent booming by the rail- road company, the valuation had advanced to $3,587,942, and the pop- ulation to about 12,000. San Bernardino County in 1880 had an assessed valuation of $2,960,590, and a population of 7,786; in 1886 the valuation had in- creased to $8,089,305, and the population to over 20,000. The census affords us an interesting exhibit of the trend of pop- INTRODUCTORY. 15 Per Cent. North of Per Cent. South of San Francisco. San Francisco. - 74 26 62 38 57 43 43 57 ulation during the last twenty-seven years. We will put it in tabu- lar form, for brevity's sake, showing first, the total population of the State in i860, 1870, 1880, and 1887, including the city of San Fran- cisco; and second, the percentage of population at each period in the counties lying north and south of San Francisco, omitting the popu- lation of that city : Year. Population. i860 - = - 379>994 1870 - - 560,247 1880 .... 864,694 1887 (estimated) 1,250,000 Year. i860 1870 1880 1887 The writer has constantly maintained that the growth of South- ern California was not (as has been so frequently asserted by superfi- cial and ignorant correspondents of the press and by editors who ought to know better) a mere real estate "boom," worked up by dili- gent advertising within the last three or four years. The statistics that have been presented in these pages show that it has been a re- markably steady movement for more than twenty years, increasing as increased facilities for travel and transportation have been afforded. It is due wholly to the great natural advantages of the country, which had only to be tested by personal experience to be appreciated. No amount of advertising will bring permanent population to a section, or increase its wealth, unless there are substantial resources in the soil. With an area greater by several thousand square miles than that of either of the great States of New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, and equal to that of Illinois, or Iowa, or Wisconsin, with bound- less wealth of resources and remarkable variety of soil and climate, with three hundred miles of coast line on the great Pacific, and one of the finest harbors in the world, who can predict any limitation to the growth of Southern California? It is the especial purpose of this work to point out and explain the resources and peculiar advantages of San Diego County — the ex- l6 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. treme southern county of California, and the one whose recent de- velopment has been the most remarkable in the history of the State. The statistical table showing the growth of Southern California dur- ing the present decade (above given), shows that San Diego enor- mously leads all of her sister counties in percentage of increase, both in population and wealth. Nothing that can be compared with this growth has ever been known on the Pacific Coast — if, indeed, a par- allel can be found for it on the continent. The Coast counties lying northward, began with a vastly greater capital in population, and were the earliest to replace the grazing interest by the cultivation of the soil ; but San Diego, youngest in development, has passed all the rest in the rapidity of her recent growth. In less than eight years San Diego County has increased her population very nearly sixfold and her taxable valuation more than sevenfold. Railroad communication was a long time coming; but when, in 1880, work was commenced at the Bay of San Diego on the California Southern Railroad, the county was ripe for development, and the impulse then given has been an ever-increasing force. In 1884 this railroad passed under the control of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Company, which completed it to a junction with its transcontinental system, thus giving San Diego a through line from ocean to ocean, and making the city and port the Pacific terminus of the fourth grand overland railway. For some months after the completion of the junction, the California Southern ran its trains into Los Angeles over the track of the Southern Pacific from Colton, which it leased for that purpose. But the Atchison Company has since built two extensions of the California Southern to Dos Angeles, — one from San Bernardino, intersecting Cucamonga, Ontario, Pomona, and Pasadena; and another via Riverside, down the valley of the Santa Ana River, to the town of Santa Ana, and thence northwesterly to Los Angeles, and southeasterly to San Diego; this last extension giving nearly an air line between San Diego and Los Angeles, and reducing the time between the two points to less than five hours. During the long years of waiting, a quiet but most important work had been steadily going on in the interior. Our people were finding out the real resources of the county; they were learning how to cultivate the soil for profit. The growth was very slow, but there was a growth. Steadily, from year to year, from 1868 to 1880, with only two exceptions, the assessment rolls showed a small but regular INTRODUCTORY. 1 7 increase. For a time the population of the town grew smaller; but during the same period there was a gain in the interior. Since the final establishment of through rail connection by the Atchison system, in November, 1885, the onward movement in city and county has known no pause. Great enterprises have not only been projected, but have been put in operation ; municipal and county improvements have been inaugurated; the city has been transformed by the very great number of business and residence buildings that have been erected during the last two years; population has poured in in an ever-increasing stream, and it is of the character that is welcome to a young and rising community ; it comprises the best energy, enterprise, and business ability of the country, and it brings with it capital with which to operate. There has been — there can be no pause, until San Diego fully attains the position that nature has marked out for her : Commercial metropolis of Southern California and the whole vast region lying on the east and north, and second great city of the Pacific Coast. Nor will there then be pause. o (D Q fi St) o o O tn g Pi fv'^:'V'-, '!■ ^ o i O a"- f ( > 'l ^ ■fj\ ~ O ,►(> ' a' ^^^, ^ -(^ » ' s \ t £ +-* d ^ & C £ \ ' r^ a k . \t w ' ^4, * "o n' , c ' I ■ o 4 * '55 \^ m S \ 2 > ■>■) o s s;5 1 CD 00 CD Fh B (B O ® o m Etf d c/2 Cm O H3 m O C/2 3 c CO d o 7) HISTORICAL. SAN DIEGO is the spot where the earliest steps in the civilization of the territory that now forms the State of California were taken. It was here that the good Friar Francis Junipero Serra (Padre Junipero) founded, on the i6th day of July, 1769, the first Mission in the chain which afterward extended along the coast as far north as Sonoma.* In less than one month after the Mission was established an up- rising of the Indians took place, which was not quelled until there had been some hard fighting. Four of the Spaniards were wounded, and a boy was killed. In August, 1774, the Missionary quarters were removed from the Presidio to the present Mission, about six miles up the valley of the San Diego River. The spot chosen for the new build- ings at that time bore the Indian name of Nipaguay. During the night of the 4th of November, following, another uprising of the In- dians took place. There were at that time seventy Indian rancherias in the vicinity. More than 1,000 Indians joined in the attack. The Fathers and dependents were taken by surprise, but offered a deter- mined resistance. In the conflict one of the priests, Father Louis Jamme, and the blacksmith and a carpenter were killed, and every one of the inhabitants of the Mission received more or less wounds. The Mission itself was burned, and everything in it destroyed. The present Mission buildings — or, rather, the ruins of the buildings — stand on the site of those destroyed by the Indians in their last iip- rising. They were commenced in 1776 — two years after that disas- * Following is a list of the Missions, in the order of their establishment: 1. San Diego 2. San Carlos de Monterey . 3. San Antonio de Padua 4. San Gabriel 5. San Luis Obispo 6. San Francisco de los Dolores 7. San Juan Capistrano . . . 8. Santa Clara ...... 9. San Buenaventura 10, Santa Barbara 11. La Purisima Concepciou . . July 16, 1769 June 3, 1770 . . July 14, 1771 September 8, 1771 September i, 1772 October 9, 1776 November i, 1776 . January 18, 1777 March 21, 1782 December 4, 1786 December 8, 1787 12. Santa Cruz . . ... 13. Nuestra Senora la Solidad 14. San Jose ... . . 15. San Juan Bautisto . . 16. San Miguel 17. San Fernando Rey . 18. San Luis Rey_ 19. Santa Inez Virgin y Martyr August 28, 1791 October g, 1791 . June II, 1797 . June 24, 1797 • July 25, 1797 September 8, 1797 . June 13, 179S September 17, 1804 San Rafael December 14, 1817 21. San Francisco de Solano de Sonoma April 25, 1820 20 PICl'URESOUE SAN DIEGO. trous event. The Mission church was dedicated on the 12th of No- vember, 1777, but was not entirely completed until the year 1784. It stands on an eminence, at a point in the valley of the San Diego River which commands a fine view of the entire valley to the sea on the one side, and of the mountains on the other. The main building is about ninety feet long, and extends from north to south, the main entrance be- ing at the south end. The massive walls, about four feet in thickness, are built of adobe, the doorways and windows being made of burnt tiles. The out-buildings form a wing extending eastward at right angles with the main building and are constructed of the same mate- rial. An adobe wall encloses a court-yard at the rear of these out- buildings and east of the main edifice. These historic buildings are now rapidly crumbling to ruin, and unless some enthusiastic anti- quarian shall take in hand the preservation of this interesting land- mark of civilization in California it will soon be numbered among the things that were. In front of the church, on the river bottom-lands, is the orchard planted by the Mission Fathers. There are some 300 Olive trees here, which bear a full crop of fruit every year. From this Olive orchard all the Olive trees in California have been propa- gated. It is the oldest orchard in the State. It formerly contained a large number of Orange, Pear, and other trees, and an extensive vine- yard; but now, save two stately Palm trees fronting the entrance, and a few Pomegranate trees, nothing of the past remains but the Olive trees, and they will stand, in health as vigorous as to-day, for centu- ries to come, unless displaced by the hand of man. According to the census reported to the Viceroy in the year 1800, the Presidio of San Diego had a population of 167, consisting of ofi&- cers and soldiers, with their families. They possessed 820 head of cattle and 403 head of horses. The Mission then had within its prem- ises an Indian population of 1,501, and the Fathers owned 6,000 head of cattle and about the same number of sheep, and 877 head of horses. In that year (1800) the Mission raised 3,000 bushels of wheat and 2,000 bushels of barley. In 1827 the Mission possessed 17,284 head of sheep, 9,120 head of cattle, and 1,123 head of horses. The City of San Diego is the oldest municipality in California. The "Pueblo" was organized on the first day of January , 1835, by the installation of its municipal officers, who had been elected by ballot of the people on December 21, 1834. Following is a list of the ofii- cers: Alcalde — Juan Maria Osuna; First Regidor — Juan Bautisto HISTORICAL. 21 Alvarado; Second Regidor — Juan Maria Marron; Sindico Procurador — Henry D. Fitch. These officers constituted the first Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, of San Diego. Thirteen votes, all told, were cast at this first municipal election in San Diego. Don Pio Pico, afterward Governor of California under the Mexican rule (who is still living, hale and hearty, at Los Angeles) was the opposing candidate for Alcalde. Captain Fitch, who made the first survey and official map of the Pueblo, died in 1849, and is buried with his family in the an- cient Presidio on the bluff at Old Town, where the graves may be seen to-day, the inscriptions carved and painted upon the wooden head-boards being yet quite legible. Up to the year 1825, with very few exceptions, the whole civilized population lived within the Presidio enclosure or just under the protection of its guns. This Presidio was maintained up to 1837, when, in a petty revolution, the troops were marched to Los Angeles, where they disbanded themselves for want of pay, and never returned. In 1821 there were but five houses on the present site of Old San Diego, at the foot of Presidio Hill ; and between that date and 1830 only eight more were built. As has been stated, the Pueblo was organized in 1835. Ten years, however, elapsed before the town lands were surveyed and mapped by Captain Fitch, whereupon, in 1845, the assignment of the lands to the municipality was made by the Mexican Government. When, on the 7th of July, 1846, California passed under the American Government, the Pueblo organization was still maintained, and the City's title to the Pueblo lands was guaranteed by the treaty with Mexico in 1848, and subsequently (in 1853) confirmed by the United States Board of Land Commissioners. The quantity of lands thus confirmed to the Pueblo was eleven square leagues, or thirty-two thousand acres. The ques- tion of the City's title has since been brought before the Department of the Interior, on the appeals of persons claiming that the quantity of land should be reduced to four square leagues, and the matter was finally settled January 31, 1872, by the decision of the Secretary of the Interior, sustaining the City's title to the full quantity of eleven square leagues. On the 23d of February, 1872, the State Legislature finally passed an Act introduced in the Senate by Mr. McCoy, whereby all prior conveyances of lands by the municipal authorities of San Diego were legalized, ratified, and confirmed. When the war with Mexico came, San Diego figured conspicu- ously in the brief contest which placed California under the rule of 22 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. the United States. As stated, the fortifications of the Presidio had been abandoned in 1837, but the earthworks known as "Fort Stock- ton" were built by the Californians in 1840, and constituted the chief defense of the Pueblo when, six years later, Commodore Stockton en- tered the harbor with the frigate Congress. The Commodore speed- ily captured this fortification, and improved it; hence its name. On the 2d of August, 1846, General Kearny's little "Army of the West" left Fort Leavenworth, Missouri, with the object of strik- ing a blow at the northern provinces of Mexico, more especially New Mexico (which included Arizona) and California. Kearny's com- mand reached the pass at Warner's Rancho, in San Diego County, on the 2d of December, and marched for the Bay, the route being through the Santa Isabel and the Santa Maria Ranchos. On the 6th of December, 1846, was fought the battle at San Pasqual, resulting in the defeat of the Mexicans under Andreas Pico; but it was a dearly bought victory, costing the lives of nineteen gallant officers and men. Major (now General) W. H. Emory, graphically relates the story in his notes. The command broke camp at Santa Maria at 2 o'clock in the morning of the 6th, and marched nine miles before daybreak. "When within a mile of the enemy, whose force was unknown," says Emory, "his fires shone brightly. The General (Kearny) and his party were in advance, preceded only by the advance guard of twelve men under Captain Johnston. He ordered a trot, then a charge, and soon we found ourselves engaged in a hand-to- hand conflict with a largely superior force. As day dawned the smoke cleared away, and we commenced collecting our dead and wounded. We found eighteen of our officers and men were killed on the field and thirteen wounded (one of whom. Sergeant Cox, died three days later). Amongst the killed were Captains Moore and Johnston, and Lieutenant Hammond of the First Dragoons; the Gen- eral, Captain Gibson, Lieutenant Warner, and Mr. Robideau were badly wounded. A large body of horsemen were seen in our rear, and fears were entertained lest Major Swords and the baggage should fall into their hands. The General di- rected me to take a party of men and go back for Major Swords and his party. We met at the foot of the first hill. Returning, I scoured the village, to look for the dead and wounded. The first object that met my eye was the manly figure of Captain Johnston. He was perfectly lifeless, a ball having passed directly through the center of his head. Captain Johnston and one dragoon were the only persons either killed or wounded on our side by firearms. (The others had been lanced and cut.) When night closed in, the bodies of the dead were buried under a willow to the east of our camp, with no other accompaniments than the howling of myriads of wolves. Thus were put to rest together, and forever, a . band of brave and heroic men. The long march of 2,000 miles had brought our little band to know each other well. Community of hardships, danger, and priva- HISTORICAL. 23 tions had produced relations of mutual regard, which caused their loss to sink deeply into our memories." The march was resumed toward the San Bernardo Rancho, where the Mexican cavalry were again encountered, but defeated without loss to the Americans. On the 8th the command halted, and supped on mule meat. At nightfall Lieutenant Beale, of the Navy, who had joined the command the day before the battle, bringing a message from the Bay to the General, volunteered with Kit Carson to go to San Diego, twenty-nine miles distant. It was an expedition of some peril, as the enemy occupied all the passes to the town, but it was accomplished safely, and Commodore Stockton sent a detachment of 100 tars and 80 marines, under Lieutenant Gray, to reinforce Kearny. Thenceforward the march to San Diego was made without impediment. Emory thus records his impressions of San Diego, which was reached December 12, 1846: "The town consists of a few adobe houses, two or three of which, only, have plank floors. It is situated at the foot of a high hill on a sand flat, two miles wide, reaching from the head of San Diego Bay to False Bay. A high promontory, of nearly the same width, runs into the sea four or five miles, and is connected by the flat with the main land. The road to the hide houses leads on the east side of this promontory, and abreast of them the frigate Congress and the sloop Portsmouth are at anchor." The chief business of San Diego was then, as it had been for many years previously, the exportation of hides. This port was in- deed the depot for the entire coast of California, and the Boston vessels engaged in this traffic gathered up hides all along the coast, and brought them hither to be cured and packed for final shipment to the East. Dana, who was here in 1835, describes the hide trade at length in his noted book, "Two Years Before the Mast." General Emory was the first person to perceive and speak of the importance of the harbor of San Diego as the terminus of a transcon- tinental railroad from the Mississippi, by the route of the Gila. " San Diego," he said, " is, all things considered, perhaps one of the best harbors on the coast, from Callao to Puget Sound, with a single exception, that of San Francisco. In the opinion of some intelligent navy officers, it is preferable even to this. The harbor of San Francisco has more water, but that of San Diego has a more uniform climate, better anchorage, and perfect security from winds in any direction." While California was under the Mexican flag it was subdivided 24 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. into districts, the officers of which were a Prefect, a Sub-Prefect, and Judges of First Instance. Section four of the Schedule of the State Constitution provided that this order of things should continue "until the entering into office of the new officers to be appointed under this Constitution." The Act to provide for holding the first county elec- tions (passed March 2, 1850) made it the duty of each Prefect in the State to immediately designate a suitable number of election precincts in each county of his district, and to give due notice of the same and of the election to be held. An Act had already been passed (February 18,1850) subdividing the State into twenty-eight counties, in which San Diego was the first that was created. Accordingly the Prefect of San Diego, Don Jose Antonio Estudillo, divided the new county into election precincts, and posted notices (there being no newspaper at that time) that an election would be held on the first day of April, 1850. We have before us a copy of the poll-lists and original returns of the two precincts of San Diego. The poll-lists bear the names of many men of note, among others that of General Samuel P. Heintzel- man, whose services during the Civil War were conspicuous. Many of the citizens of that day have since died, but a remarkably good proportion of the number are yet living, and several of them are still among our most respected citizens. The officers chosen were as fol- lows: District Attorney, William C. Ferrell; County Judge, John Hays; County Clerk, Richard Rust; County Attorney, Thomas W. Sutherland; County Surveyor, Henry Clayton; Sheriff, Agostin Harazthy; Recorder, Henry C. Matsell; Assessor, Jose Antonio Estudillo; Coroner, John Brown; Treasurer, Juan Bandini. The first county assessment roll shows the value of taxable property in 1850 as follows: Ranch lands, $255,281; ten stores, with capital of $65,395; six vineyards (no value stated); 88 houses, $104,302; 6,789 head of cattle, $92,280; total value, $517,258. The assessment roll of the City of San Diego for 1850 gave the following values: Old Town, $264,210; New Town, $80,050, Middle Town, $30,000; total value, $375,160. The aggregate population of San Diego County in 1850 was 798. This is the statement given in the Seventh United States Census. The population of the City in that year was estimated at 650. The first term of the District Court in San Diego was convened May 6,1850. Present: O. S. Witherby, Judge, and Richard Rust, Clerk. The first grand jury impaneled in San Diego County (Sep- HISTORICAL. 25 teniber, 1850) was constituted as follows: Clias. Harazthy, Ramon Osuna, James Wall, Loreto Amador, Manuel Rocha, J. Emers, Boni- facio Lopez, Holden Alara, Seth B. Blake, Louis Rose, William H. Moon, C. J. Couts, Jose de Js. Moreno, Cristobal Lopez, and Jose An- tonio Aguirre. The practicing attorneys in San Diego, as enrolled in 1850, were James W. Robinson, Thomas W. Sutherland, John B. Magruder, and W. C. Ferrell, all of whom are now dead. San Diego's first newspaper — the "Herald" — was established by J. Judson Ames, on May 29, 1851. In 1853, Lieutenant George H. Derby, of the United States Topographical Engineers, who was then on duty here, made the "Herald" famous by changing its politics dur- ing the absence of Ames in San Francisco. The paper was a Demo- cratic organ, and ardently devoted to the interests of Governor Bigler. Derby, as soon as he assumed the temporary charge of its columns, hoisted the Whig ticket at the mast-head and supported it with great zeal. Derby, better known by his noni de plume of" Phcenix," was one of the most brilliant wits who ever lived, and his contributions to the "Herald" were afterward collected and published under the title of " Phoenixiana," a book which is as popular to-day as ever. The "Herald" suspended in 1859. From that time until the establish- ment of the "Union," in October, 1868 — nine years — San Diego was without a newspaper. The reference to Lieutenant Derby reminds us of his mission here, which was to turn the San Diego River into False Bay. He constructed a dam, which was completed in 1855, and was washed away in the great freshet of 1857. The remarkable freshets in the San Diego River occurred in the following years: First, in 1811; sec- ond, in 1825, when the river changed its channel (which previously ran into False Bay) and broke through into the harbor; third, in the winter of 1839-40; fourth, in 1855; fifth, in 1857; sixth, in 1862. There have been many more freshets in this river, but those here noted are called the "great" floods. After the destruction of the Derby dam, constant efforts were made by the citizens to induce the Government to renew the work; but not until 1875 could an appro- priation be obtained. This important work was completed in 1877 by the late Lieutenant J. H. Weeden, of the Engineer Corps, and the structure has withstood all subsequent floods. A military post was established at San Diego in 1846, and the troops were quartered at the Old Mission until 1856. Heintzelman, 26 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. Magruder, Burton, Winder, and Fauntleroy commanded the post at different times. Captain Winder, who resigned from the army some years ago, is still with us. He came to the post in 1854, with two companies of the Third Artillery. March 26, 1855, he marched from San Diego with his company as an escort to the first Pacific Railroad Survey, under Lieutenant Parke, of the Topographical Engineers. The barracks now occupied by the post at San Diego were built in 1851, and the building was originally designed as a military store- house and depot, for which purpose it was used until 1862. Large trains were made up here, and sent out to Yuma, with supplies for the troops at that fort and other points. The growth of the City of San Diego of to-day dates from 1867. At that time the project of a railroad from the Mississippi Valley to the Pacific, on the 3 2d parallel (which had slumbered during the period of the Civil War) was revived. As the proposed Pacific ter- minus of the road, San Diego came immediately into prominence. The Old Town had been built some distance inland from the Bay. What was called "New Town" then consisted merely of the Govern- ment barracks and officers' quarters, and the ruins of an old wharf. A. E. Horton visited San Diego in the spring of 1867, and conceived the idea that there would be an important city at this point, that it would be built directly on the Bay, and that there would be an excel- lent speculation in purchasing the then considered valueless Pueblo lands along the bay shore east of " New Town." Horton's willingness to purchase becoming known, the Pueblo authorities offered the lands at public sale in May, 1867, when he bid off a tract of 900 acres, immediately had it surveyed as a town site, under the name of " Hor- ton's Addition to San Diego," and put it in the market. This tract is the center of the present City of San Diego. A o s a o o a, a o dj CD w m O o m o t« o o o 'fl a> :i o w to g o o o ® P w S«' 'Pli^'ifli'llil WWW iillii: il*«ii;# I'M ■' » ' ' ' J '1' » o ''VW'I'!. '^ i f, ,•!■;:! M i-i^'iiu -^ mmq ^ fe/vr*'/" r'v f't*' '111 ^ i 'I' '.Mil fc- i '' I' T' ', ir MB, , \ ■''■'''■■'vWtl,? 11! III lii if III Mm WlimI mmmd >5 Si o M pq o o D3 0) a m _o cS IS 0) -*^ tn a o o _o Morse-Pieree Building, corner Sixth and F streets, San Diego. o d3 2 Q a SS OT ^" o E-i o I — I a o 'ft W as Oh ^«:';^;: u 6S Dq 13 c o sS 'Z h^ o M d * O O CD Q CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. THE City of San Diego occupies a beautiful and commanding site on the northeastern shore of the bay of the same name, in lati- tude 33° 42' 37" north, longitude 117'' 9' west; 480 miles southeast of San Francisco. The Bay of San Diego was discovered in the year 1542, by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in the ser- vice of Spain. The present name of the harbor was given by Sebastian Vizcaino, who surveyed it in November, 1602. On the whole length of the coast line of California, over 700 miles, there are but two true land-locked harbors — San Francisco and San Diego — the latter, although not as large, being more easy of access and safer for shipping than San Francisco. Prof. George Davidson, of the United States Coast Survey, reports on San Diego Bay as follows: "Next to that of San Francisco, no harbor on the Pacific Coast of the United States approximates in excellence the Bay of San Diego. The bottom is uniformly good; no rocks have been discovered in the bay or approaches; the position of the bay with relation to the coast, and of the bar with relation to Point Loma, is such that there is rarely much swell on the bar; as a rule, there is much less swell on this bar than on any other bar on the Pacific Coast. There is less rain, fog, and thick haze, and more clear weather, in this vicinity than at all points to the northward, and the entrance is less difficult to make and enter on that account. Large vessels can go about seven miles (geographical) up the Bay, with an average width of channel of eight hundred yards between the four fathom lines at low water. This indicates sufficient capacity to accommodate a large commerce." Commodore C. P. Patterson, Superintendent United States Coast Survey, at Washington, transmitted to the chairman of a Congres- sional Committee in 1878, the result of the last survey of San Diego harbor in that year. He says : "The depth over the bar [at low water] is 22 feet. The bar remains in a remarkably permanent state. The distance across the bar, from an outside depth 27 28 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. of 27 feet to the same depth inside, is 285 yards, so that the removal of about 60,000 yards of material would give a channel of 300 feet wide and 28^ feet deep over the bar at mean low water. I have crossed this bar at all hours, both day and night, with steamers of from 1,000 to 3,000 tons burden, during all seasons, for several years, without any detention whatever. As will be seen from the dimen- sions given, ample accommodations can be had in this harbor for a very large com- merce. There is no safer harbor on the Pacific Coast for entering or leaving, or for vessels lying off wharves. It is the only land-locked harbor south of San Francisco and north of San Quentin, Lower California, a stretch of 600 miles of coast, and, from a national point of view, its importance is so great that its pi'eservation de- mands national protection and justifies national expenditure. Fortunately, these expenditures need not be great, if the stable regimen of the harbor be preserved." The City of San Diego is the county-seat of the County of San Diego. Its present population is about 18,000. The excess of arrivals over departures, by all routes, during the year 1886 was 12,313, and the average monthly gain since January ist may be fairly reckoned as 1,200. It is estimated that nearly one-half of these new-comers have established themselves in the interior of the county, making the actual gain in the population of the city during the last eighteen months about 10,000. The city assessment roll is more than f iSj- ooOjOOO this year, as against $4,582,213 in 1886. Such an advance in population and wealth is certainly unexampled in the history of the Pacific Coast, if not of the country at large. In the year from July ist, 1886, to July ist, 1887, 585 new buildings, including 1 10 business buildings, were erected at a total cost of $1,929,525. The assets of the banks of the city aggregated in July, 1887, $3,468,659, against $966,000 in 1886 ; the aggregate deposits were $2,668,536, against $674,000 in 1886. These statistics speak for themselves, and are submitted without comment. The street railway system of San Diego covers nearly 1 7 miles within the city proper, while a motor line runs to National City, five miles south, on the Bay, and continues toward the Otay and Tia Juana Valleys, ten miles farther. Work on an electric street railway is now in progress, and a few months will see the whole city, from the Old Town, on the west, to the eastern boundary, and from the water front to the far northern mesa, beyond the City Park, connected by street car lines. Work has already been commenced on the San Diego Central Railroad, to run from the city to the Cajon Valley, Poway Valley, Escondido, and Bernardo, connecting with the California Southern at Oceanside. Work on the extension of the Southern CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 29 Pacific Railroad* from Los Angeles to San Diego, is to be commenced during the present year. Street grading has been going forward actively during the last eighteen months, some 25 miles having already been completed, and the work will be continued as fast as the city grows. San Diego has been lighted by electricity since January, 1886 ; the City Gas Company has, since the opening of the present year, put in a plant of five times its former capacity; while the Electric Light Company is adding to its plant the incan- descent system. The rapid increase in population made manifest to the citizens the necessity of a thorough sewer system, and they determined that it should be the best that sanitary science could give them. Accordingly, Col. Geo. H. Waring, the eminent sanitary engineer, was consulted and employed to prepare a plan for such system. His plan was adopted by the Board of City Trustees, and an election was held on the 26th of February last upon the ques- tion of incurring $400,000 bonded indebtedness for the purpose of constructing the sewers. At that election 1,083 votes were cast for the bonds, and 84 against. Col. Waring has been employed to superin- tend the construction of the system, which has already been commenced, and will be pushed to a speedy completion. San Diego is a progres- sive community, and takes the lead among California cities in the matter of public improvements. The water supply of the city has been very largely increased by the construction of a new system of water-works, with which the old one has been merged, and it will be ample for a city of 200,000 people upon the completion of the Plume Company's enterprise, bringing in the water from the Upper San Diego River, a distance of some 45 miles by the Flume line. This latter work is now in active progress. There is telephone service throughout the city and to interior points, the entire mileage of the system being now nearly 400 miles. The Western Union Telegraph Company reaches the city by two lines, and a line is also maintained by the California Southern Railroad. The Postofiice aifords foreign and domestic money-order facilities, and the free delivery system has been established. Two trains now arrive and depart daily. The overland, to Kansas City, St. Louis, and Chicago, with eastern con- nections to all points, leaves in the evening and arrives in the morn- ing; Pullman Palace Sleepers on this train. Through tickets to all points in the United States and Canada are sold at the San Diego of&ce. The train for Riverside, Colton, San Bernardino, and Los An- 30 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. geles, and all intermediate points, leaves in the morning and arrives in the evening. Steamships of the P. C S. S. Co., between San Francisco and San Diego and intermediate points, arrive and depart every three days. Cars on the Motor road leave for National City and the Otay Valley every two hours. The Coronado Perry Com- pany's boat crosses the Bay ninety times a day, making trips every twenty minutes, giving close connections with the Coronado Beach Railroad and the entire street-railway system of San Diego. Stage lines run to all prominent interior points three times weekly. San Diego is a Port of Entry and United States Military Post, with Custom House, Barracks, etc. The United States Signal Service has maintained a Station here since 1871. There are two National Banks, — the Consolidated, Bryant Howard, President, and John Ginty, Cashier; and the First National, R. A. Thomas, President, O. S. Hubbell, Cashier, and M. T. Gilmore, Assistant Cashier. There is also a Savings Bank, of which James M. Pierce is President, and John Ginty, Treasurer. A new State Bank is soon to be opened. The Press is well represented by both morning and evening journals, which exhibit an enterprise and ability that would be noteworthy in cities many times larger and many years older. The Hotels are excellent and numerous, there being at least three that may be properly called first-class. Public organizations, societies and orders are represented by a Chamber of Commerce, Public Library Association, Society of Natural History, Town Improvement Society, Young Men's Christian Associa- tion, Branch of the Woman's Christian Temperance Union, Benevo- lent Association, Athletic Association, Fire Department, a Company of the National Guard of California, several Social Clubs, Masonic lodges, chapter, commandery, and consistory, two lodges and an" en- campment of Odd Fellows, a lodge of Uniformed Division and section of Endowment Rank of the Knights of Pythias, two lodges Ancient Order United Workmen, two lodges Independent Order Good Tem- plars, lodge of the Order of Chosen Friends, and a post of the Grand Army of the Republic. The church organizations include the Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist Episcopal, Methodist South, Congregational, Episcopalian, Christian, German Evangelical, Unitarian, Adventist, and Roman Catholic ; there' are also a society of the New Church and a society of Spiritualists. CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 3 1 Educational facilities in San Diego are excellent. The public schools are in charge of an efi&cient Principal, with a corps of able Assistants. Pupils may graduate from the highest class of the Gram- mar Department with diplomas entitling them to admission to the State University. Of private schools, the Southwestern Institute, the Catholic school of the Sisters of St. Joseph, and the Kindergarten of the Misses Curtis may be mentioned. The last school census showed that there were then 2,447 children in the city, an increase over the preceding year of 1,041, or nearly 75 per cent. Twenty-five teachers are employed in the public schools. With the data already given, it goes without saying that all of the professions, trades, and various branches of business are well repre- sented in San Diego. An extensive and growing traffic is carried on with interior points, whose population and trade are constantly and rapidly increasing. The enterprise of the community is shown in the nu.merous handsome and substantial brick blocks and buildings, some of which would do credit to any large metropolis, and tasteful and ele- gant residences are to be seen on every hand. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad Company are erecting a grand Union Depot on their extensive terminal grounds at the foot of D street; they are also perfecting a large wharf system, where ship and car will be brought together. Important and extensive building improvements are now going forward and projected. No town in California has better society than San Diego. What has been said of our schools, churches, and various organizations, speaks for itself. Here will be found people of cultivation and refine- ment and genial social qualities. While it has been and is an active, stirring time with us, our people are not lacking in an earnest interest in higher things than mere money-making. Ours is pre-eminently a city of homes and happy home life. Social gatherings are marked by cordiality and freedom from constraint. Visitors are made to feel at home, and those who sojourn here for a season never fail to carry away pleasant recollections and strong desires to return. A CLIMATE THAT HAS NO EQUAL. The climate of San Diego is a perpetual source of wonder to visitors. It is stating the simple unquestionable fact to say that it has no equal among the health resorts of the world. In 1881 the "Daily Union" published an article giving a five years' view of the climate of 32 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. this place, compiled from the records of the U. S. Signal Station here. The exhibit is most remarkable, and has been widely quoted from. In the first edition of this work, in 1885, we re-published these statistics, which covered the period from 1876 to 1880, inclusive (dating from the commencement of the use of self-registering instruments in the San Diego Station). We have now continued the compilation for five years more — from 1881 to 1885, inclusive — so as to embrace a statement of our climate from the official Government records cover- ing a period of ten years — 1876 to 1885, both years inclusive. During these ten years, embracing 3,653 days, there were 3,533 days on which the mercury did not rise above 80 degrees. The remaining 120 days were distributed as follows: In 1876, 8 days ; in 1877, 12 days; in 1878, 10 days; in 1879, 19 days; in 1880, 9 days; in 1881, 7 days ; in 1882, 4 days ; in 1883, 23 days ; in 1884, 13 days ; in 1885, 15 days. Only one hundred and twenty days in ten years in which the thermo^neter vtarked a higher temperature than 80 degrees. But the showing is still more remarkable. Of the total number of 3,653 days there were hvX forty-one days in which the thermometer rose above 85 degrees, but twenty-two days on which it rose above 90 degrees, hvXfour days on which it rose above 95 degrees, and mAy one day on which it rose above 100 degrees. The highest temperature recorded during the whole period of ten years was loi degrees, on the 23d day of September, 1883. During these ten years there were never more than two days in any one month on which the mercury rose as high as 85 degrees, except June, 1877, 4 days ; September, 1878, 5 days ; June, 1879, 3 days ; September, 1879, 4 days; October, 1879, 6 days ; and September, 1883, 4 days. On not a single day during the ten years did any unusual warmth continue more than a few hours, the highest minimum for any day being only 70 degrees, on five of the three thousand six hundred and fifty-three days. It thus appears that the climate of San Diego is entirely free from what is known in Eastern cities as "the heated term." In these ten summers no sweltering- heat by night prevented sleep ; in fact, there was no night during all the period when a blanket over the sheet did not add to comfort. We have seen that there is no such thing as a " heated term " here. We shall now show that what is termed a "cold spell" is equally CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 33 unknown. During the same ten years, containing 3,653 days, there were 3,560 days on which the mercury did not fall below 40 degrees. Of the remaining 93 days, there were only sis: on which the tempera- ture fell below 35 degrees, and only two on which it registered as low as 32 degrees, and none on which it fell below that point. On no day did the mercury remain below 40 degrees more than one or two hours, and this in the period between midnight and daylight, the lowest MAXIMUM for any day being 52 degrees, on four of the three thousand six hundred and fifty-three days. In seeking a residence for health and comfort, the well-educated physician will tell you to go, if you can find such a place, where there are no extremes of heat or cold, where the daily winds are neither wanting nor are piercing or tempestuous, and where the atmosphere is neither very moist nor very dry. And it is indisputable .that the com- bined requirements of even and moderate warmth, of regular daily gentle motion of wind, and of an almost constant atmospheric humidity of the desirable mean, are more fully met here than in any other health resort in the world. The movements of the air have much to do with the salubrity and comfort of San Diego. During the ten years under review there was not a single day recorded as a " calm " day. On some days it was calm at the time of taking one or more of the observations ; but during a portion of each day there was movement, preventing stagnation, and giving freshness and purity to the air we breathe. Four observations taken daily — at 7 A.M., 12.20 p.m., 2 p.m. and 9 p.m. — give 14,612 observations in the ten years. Of these, 1730 show north wind, 3252 northwest, 3280 west, 1614 southwest, 1044 south, 458 southeast, 846 east, 1 5 10 northeast, 878 calm. The westerly winds, from ofi" the ocean, are the prevailing winds. They are called the " dry " winds, that is, without rain — the rain or damp winds being from the east, southeast and south. The Signal Service tables classify winds having a velocity of I to 2 miles per hour as Light; of 3 to 5 as Gentle; of 6 to 14 as Fresh; of 15 to 29 as Brisk; of 30 to 40 as High; of 41 to 60 as a Gale; of 61 to 80 as a Storm; of 81 to 150 as a Hurricane. The mild- ness of the winds at Saii Diego can be learned from two facts : During the ten years, 14,612 observations were taken, at only 878 of which no wind was blowing; and yet the daily average velocity during the whole period was only 139 miles, or less than six miles per hour. The highest daily velocity was 423 miles, or less than eighteen miles per 34 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. hour. The least daily velocity was 17 miles, or only about three- fourths of a mile per hour. The mean relative humidity (per cent.) for each month in the year at San Diego, for 15 years, is as follows: January, 71.2; Feb- ruary, 74.3; March, 73.5; April, 72.4; May, 73; June, 73; July, 70.4; August, 71.7; September, 67.4; October, 71.5; November, 66.4; December, 67.2. The average number of clear, fair, and cloudy days during the year, for 15 years, at San Diego, is: Clear, 184; Fair, 136; Cloudy, 45. The average number of days on which rain fell is 34. The comparatively small average rainfall on the coast, which adds to the charm of the climate of San Diego, and makes residence here so delightful the year round, must not be taken as indicating the amount of rainfall for the section generally. Going back from the coast, we find that the rainfall increases in volume, and forty miles inland such a thing as a dry year is as rare as it is in any other sec- tion of the State. Even twenty miles north of the city the rainfall averages over fifty per cent, more than in town. It is to the remarkably advantageous natural position of San Diego that the constant regularity of movement of the winds and per- fect equability of temperature is due. The city is situated upon a plateau formed by the gently sloping character of the foot-hills, the inclination being to the southwest. The soil is dry and porous. On the northeast and southeast are the slopes and peaks of the Coast Range and Ivower California chain of mountains ; southward lies the open Pacific Ocean, separated from the waters of the Bay by the long, narrow strip of land known as the Peninsula, which broadens at its western termination and forms a natural breakwater, making the most perfect and absolutely safe harbor on the entire coast; on the west is the peninsular extension of the main land, which forms the west- ern boundary of the entrance to the Bay and breaks the force of the prevailing wind from the Pacific. Almost every morning, about two hours after sunrise, a gentle breeze commences, attaining its maxi- mum velocity between i and 3 p.m., then decreasing and changing to a gentle land breeze during the night. The sea breeze increasing as the sun gains its height, modifies the power of its rays and keeps the skin just comfortably warm. The gentle land breeze at night cools off the heat absorbed during the day, and makes every night a season of refreshing. Situated thus, the City of San Diego has the most CITY AND. PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 35 equable temperature known among the dwelling places of civilized men on the face of the globe. The mountain tops on the north may glisten in their robes of snow; the atmosphere may glow with fervent heat in the Colorado desert on the east ; yet the resident of our city, dwelling but 80 miles distant from mountain-top or desert depression, enjoys the same delightful temperature, with scarcely a perceptible difference between winter and summer, wears the same clothing, and sleeps under the same covering the year round. The average annual rainfall is about ten inches, with an average of 34 rainy days in the whole year. And here the most of the rain falls at night ; there are very few of what Eastern people would call " rainy days." There is little mud ; after the heaviest rain the surface of the ground dries in a few hours, this being due both to the character of the soil and the natural slope of the land. We cannot more fittingly close these remarks upon the climate of San Diego than by giving a quotation from an address of that great scientist, the late Professor Louis Agassiz, who was here with the " Hassler " Scientific Party in 1872, when Col. Thos. A. Scott and the Texas Pacific party arrived in the city. At the " railroad meeting " then held. Professor Agassiz was present by invitation, and being called upon to speak, said: " You have heard from the lips of a practical man [Col. Scott] of the great commercial advantages you possess by reason of your geographical situation, and the merits of your beautiful and secure harbor. He assures you of an impor- tant future. I do not know why I should be here except as a listener. But as he has done me the honor to call upon me, I will say that, in his enumeration of your peculiar advantages, he has failed to allude to one which to me seems of very great importance. Perhaps, as a scientific man, I may lay more stress upon it than is necessary, but I hardly think it possible. I have seen many parts of the world and have made some study of this subject. It is the question of climate — of your latitude — that I refer to. You are here on the 32d parallel, beyond the reach of the severe winters of the northern latitudes. You have a great capital in your climate. It will be worth millions to you. This is one of the favored spots of the earth, and people will come to you from all quarters, to live in your genial and healthful atmosphere." The meeting had been called for railroad purposes, and there was much excitement over the prospect of immediate connection with the eastern side of the Continent by means of the Texas Pacific Railway. That was uppermost in every mind; and the future of San Diego was supposed to depend upon the speedy completion of the road. 36 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. Professor Agassiz took a different view; and, although he did not say it in so many words, he evidently thought that with regard to the promised railway there might be delay, there might be even failure ; that with regard to all human enterprises there might be disappoint- ment; but that the Great Creator had given to San Diego a certain advantage that can never be taken away, and that will n£ver disap- point expectation, and that, as it becomes known to the rest of the world, will become a source of permanent wealth and prosperity. As a scientist, he had taken special note of the climate, and the few words which he spoke were the spontaneous utterance of one pro- foundly impressed with its great excellence. ' ' (If y ^I'i ^ Wl in -a o PQ fi o X CD d3 fi 3 fi a ■0 fi o CD I C as cd 7 «■ ""■ .■■''■''' ■•■^'''~■''■■«<■^' CD a (D ctf 1-3 1'jt ; '^"At '■V,:'.;^^ ■¥'-•''-■ c CD P EC w ^'■ c; a' m o tci C O O o I o CO o fH o o 'S Q o 1-= m > O o h o m o Si o X o o I— < M o o S3 (D « cd (D o O J*' I' ■ I I ; I h t ; i I — I 03 P s 'm stf CD CO a C O a x> 'ft 3 O X ;d O o o 71 W o D3 CO w o m ® ■cS > G O CO O w GO CO o CD > 2 o X CO CITY AND PORT OF SAN DiUGO. 37 > Z t^ o !?1 ^ ^ n *< (0 3 a s - n f o n > «! o m M O No. of Years of Observation. Maximum. Minimum, Minimum. Maximum. Minimum. Minimum. Maximum, Minimum. Maximum, Maximum. Minimum. Minimum. in- t_j 3 X» ^ 01 (T 5' O o 3 ^ rn !-» V* o' 2 o a en P n !>r ,_, 3 B- (13 l^* n rt r. S) •o n 3 cr U! 3 O rr B Oi n. (n (/Q ■o 3 V o Oi O B p. 31 3 ■-I en 3* 3 s W (n 3- 3- (T) fD ■<; 3- n Crq •-t 3- > 3 o V tn (T) 3 ff 13 -J 2 >o PJ E. P 38 PICTURESQUE SAN DiEGO. FOR RECREATION AND HEALTH SEEKERS. There is no lack of diversion or invigorating exercise for the tourist, sportsman, or health-seeker. The seaside and interior points of resort are numerous, and afford the sojourner not only the comforts but the luxuries of life. On the southeast, at Tia Juana, there is a well-kept hotel, and only half an hour's drive farther on the well-known hot sulphur springs in Lower California, Mexico, are reached. Taking the road to the right of the Tia Juana road, we come to the seaside, just beyond the head of the Bay, and find the Initial Monument, which marks the starting point of the boundary line between the United States and Lower California, Mexico. A little beyond the Monument we find some of the finest seaside scenery on the coast, at the " Point of Rocks." Turning westward, up the coast, we have the beautiful Ocean Beach and the romantic caves and beach of La JoUa ; a hotel will be built at one, and probably at each of these points. Farther on we come to Carlsbad, a growing seaside point, where there is a valuable mineral spring. An hour's run on the California Southern brings the tourist or health-seeker to one of the most charming water- ing places in California — Del Mar. Here there is a view both of sea and mountain; the beach is one of the finest on the coast and is unsurpassed for bathing; there is an elegantly appointed hotel, with cottages for sojourners, bathing houses on the beach, etc.; there is daily mail service and telephone connection with the city. Con- tinuing on the line of the California Southern, another hour brings us to Oceanside, where there is a superb beach and fine bathing ; a large first-class hotel, close to the beach, is now nearly completed, and will be opened before this book reaches its readers. Leaving the coast for the interior, and still keeping the track of the California Southern, we come to Murrieta, a point which is destined to become one of the most popular sanitary resorts in Southern California, on account of the remarkable hot springs close at hand; one of the most comfort- able and best kept hotels to be found anywhere is kept here; the ele- vation is 1,090 feet above the sea level. Still keeping the line of the California Southern, we next reach Fallbrook, one of the most beauti- ful spots in the county, affording picturesque scenery, pure cold spring water, and salubrious air. It is near the entrance to the Temecula Canon, which can be reached in a short drive. Now, turn back to San Diego again, and thence over the mesa to the eastward, to El Cajon. CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 39 Soon, if not before this work readies the hands of the majority of its readers, there will be rail connection with San Diego, so that the trip thither may be made in half an hour. At El Cajon (or, before we reach El Cajon, let us stop by the way at La Mesa, the new colony town site laid out by the San Diego Elume Company. The air here has long been noted for its salubrity, and beneficial effect in lung troubles) — but at El Cajon, on the edge of the beautiful Linda Lake, the seeker for restfulness will find it. A large and elegantly furnished hotel, under the best of management, is kept here, and the weary man of business, or the weak invalid, or the strong man in quest of recreation, can be equally satisfied by a sojourn at Linda Lake. There are other points in this spacious valley where good hotel accommoda- tions may be had, and the surrounding country affords a variety of interesting scenery. Escondido is another and incomparable interior health resort ; its popularity is very great ; its situation gives it pecu- liar advantages ; it is only 1 5 miles from the coast, but the surround- ing hills give it freedom from the moisture of the sea air, and residence there has been found of remarkable benefit in some of the forms of pulmonary disease. There is a very fine hotel at Escondido, and telephone connection with the city. Railroad connection is now being established. These are the principal resorts, but there are many more which we have not space to touch upon. Returning to the Bay, we have directly before us the most important watering place enterprise that has been undertaken south of San Francisco, Monterey not ex- cepted. This is the Coronado Beach. The peninsula which encloses the Bay on the south was purchased in 1885 by an association of capitalists, of whom E. S. Babcock, Jr., and Hampton L. Story are the leading spirits ; they gave it the name of Coronado Beach, and they have expended nearly two millions of dollars in improvements, which they are steadily carrying forward. Their first sale of lots took place in November, 1886, and since that date they have sold 3,245 lots for over $2,250,000. There is a small town there now. A hotel on the seaside, costing over $1,000,000, will be opened in November. The natural advantages of the situation as a perfect seaside resort are not excelled in the United States, if indeed they are equalled; and it is the opinion of gentlemen who are familiar with the most famous watering places of Europe, that the possibilities afforded by the peculiar location and surroundings of the Peninsula are unsurpassed in the world. The Bay of San Diego is a completely land-locked sheet of water, 40 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. about twelve miles long and from one to two miles wide. It is formed by the proj ection on the west of the long and high promontory called Point Loma, which extends from the main land like a giant's finger, pointing southward, about eight miles. On the north the land rises in gradual slopes in the form of a crescent, sweeping around from west to east, and curving southward on the east, where the thin, ribbon-like strip of the Peninsula extends due west until it nearly meets Point Loma, enclosing the Bay on the south. At its western extremity it expands into a broad tract about a mile in width, called the " Island," which is divided on the Bay side almost through to the Ocean by an inlet or cove, the strip uniting the two halves of the Island being about four hundred yards in width. The Island lies directly in front of the city, which rises round the semi-circular slope on the north side of the Bay. The narrow passage between the Island and Point Loma is the entrance to the Harbor. The point selected for the improvements now in progress is the eastern half of the Island, or " Upper Island," as it is called, where the distance across the Bay to the City is only about three-quarters of a mile. Here avenues 140 feet wide, with drives, walks and bridle-paths between rows of trees, a boulevard around the entire Island, with parks and tree-lined streets have been made. A broad avenue running directly across the Island, from the Bay to the Ocean, a mile and a quarter, has been graded, and a double row of orange trees planted through the center the entire distance ; between this orange grove a street rail- way runs in connection with a steam ferry from the city ; on each side of the orange grove there is a drive-way, and on each side of the drive- way a row of shade trees. The trail is all dotted over with pretty cottages ; the steam ferry service connects with street railways on each side ; water from the city water works is piped under the Bay to the Beach; the telephone connects with the city system; at night the electric light gives strange beauty to the seaside resort. There are a number of very pleasant drives around San Diego, which can be accomplished in half a day or a day — the Old Mission, a drive of about eight miles by way of Old Town, returning by the some- what shorter mesa route, which affords a magnificent view of the country east and south, the Bay, the Peninsula, Ocean and Coronado Islands, as the City is approached. Point Loma and the Light-House — a drive of nine miles over a road somewhat rough, but which is fully repaid by another wonderfully fine view. CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 4 1 We have already referred to the caves of La Jolla — a drive of twelve miles to one of the most picturesque points on the coast, whose caves, as seen at low tide, are a remarkable natural curiosity ; beautiful sea mosses maybe gathered here. The Mussel Beds — a drive of about five miles through Old Town to the mouth of False Bay ; if one is fond of mussels, they can be had here, large and juicy ; "mussel bakes " are a popular feature here. We have also spoken of the Monument — a drive of sixteen miles through National City and down the Bay — a favorite drive for tourists ; and to the Tia Juana Hot Springs — a drive of sixteen miles in the same direction, but turn- ing up the Tia Juana Valley instead of toward the coast. ChoUas Valley, National City, Paradise Valley, Sweetwater Valley, and El Cajon Valley are drives of two, four, five, twelve, fifteen miles respec- tively, east of San Diego, in which one can visit the orchards and vine- yards near town, returning the same day. In addition to these attractions near at hand, the lover of nature may make delightful trips in the spring and early summer, and hunt- ing trips in the fall, to the mountains on the east and northeast of the City. Favorite excursions are to Indian Pine Valley, Buckman's Soda Springs, Guatay, the Cuyamaca country, San Felipe, etc., while to the west 'there are the Santa Margarita Valley, 'Corral deXuz, and other points. Those who desire to visit the " Sister Republic " may make camping excursions southward into Lower California, a hundred miles or more below the Mexican line, with perfect security. The sportsman may depend upon hunting and fishing, to his heart's desire. Within a couple of hours' drive from town the shoot- ing is as fine as one could wish, the game comprising quail, ducks, geese, snipe, rabbits, etc., while a little farther inland deer are yet numerous. There is no finer sea-fishing on the coast than can be had at San Diego, and parties are made up at trifling expense for fish- ing outside the Bay. Trolling baracouta is a most exciting sport, and there is splendid deep sea-fishing at the kelp beds. For boat- ing and rowing there is no place comparable with the Bay of San Diego. Its smooth, unruffled waters are a safeguard against the acci- dents of sudden squalls and wind gusts, so fatally frequent else- where. 42 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. THE COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE OF SAN DIEGO. The value of the port of San Diego in a commercial point of view has been recognized ever since Americans first settled in Cali- fornia. As long ago as 1835-36, when it was the depot for the entire coasting trade of the territory, the excellence of the harbor was pointed out by ship-masters and travelers. Dana describes it at length in his well known narrative. In 1846, General W. H. Emory (then a Major of Engineers with General Kearny's column of the Army of the West) , in his report to the Government, spoke of the importance of San Diego by reason of its geographical position and the security and capacity of its harbor, as the Pacific terminus for a railroad from the Mississippi Valley. In all the subsequent devel- opment of the Pacific Railroad idea, the terminal advantages of the port have held a conspicuous place. In 1854, when the reconnois- sances of th-e several routes had been made under the direction of the Government, the "Southern" route, terminating at San Diego, on the Pacific, was the favorite one, and would have been adopted but for the intervention of the Civil War. In the "Report of Surveys Across the Continent on the 35th and 32d Parallels, 1867-68," by General W. J. Palmer, much attention is devoted to the claims of San Diego as the terminal point for the then proposed extension of the Kansas Pacific Railroad to the Pacific Ocean. The design was to reach both San Francisco and San Diego, and the subject is exhaus- tively discussed. The question of running the main line directly to San Diego was much considered at that time. General Palmer favored building the main line to San Francisco with a branch to San Diego, upon the ground that San Francisco was already the chief commercial center of the coast ; but, in discussing this point, he says : "It has been urged that the line should go to San Diego, and leave San Francisco out. There is no question as to the value of the Harbor of San Diego. It is admirably sheltered; will admit vessels drawing twenty-two and a half feet of water ; has two square miles of water over four fathoms in depth ; and is, next to San Francisco, the best harbor on the coast. It is four times as large as Guaymas. There is also a very favorable site, with ample space (the hills rising gradually for an indefinite distance to the eastward) to build a large city. The country back of San Diego is capable of furnishing an ample supply of fruits, vegetables, and meats of all kinds. Water, adequate to the wants of a very large population, can readily be obtained by bringing in the San Diego River from a point in the interior where it is sweet and permanent. [This work is now under CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 43 construction.] And the exceedingly healthy and equable character of the climate — the temperature never falling below 40 degrees or rising above 82 degrees, as shown by the register kept at the military post for a number of years — adds an additional attraction. The fact that this harbor is almost three hundred miles nearer by railroad to New York City than San Francisco is, either by the 35th parallel or by Omaha, is so important, especially in its bearing upon the ques- tion of the Oriental trade, that if the Gila, or 32d parallel route, were the only one by which San Diego could be advantageously reached, one might hesitate before giving preference to the 3Sth parallel. It has been shown, however, that the latter affords a good route to San Diego. This [San Diego] branch could be built in eighteen months, whenever the interests demanding it should prove sufficiently important to warrant its construction by private capital — a result that might occur even before the completion of the main line ; and it is not impos- sible that its shortness and cheapness may eventually cause it to become the main line." General Palmer's opinion is here quoted at length because it was given before the present New Town of San Diego had an existence, and is the impartial judgment of one of the most eminent engineers and railroad builders in the United States upon the peculiar advan- tages of this port. A few years later a very powerful company was organized under Congressional charter to build from the Mississippi Valley direct to San Diego on the 3 2d parallel. The history of that corporation — the Texas and Pacific Railway Company, under the presidency of Col. Thomas A. Scott — is a part of the history of San Diego, from 1871 to 1878. Largely under the impulse of that enter- prise the New Town on the bay shore came into existence. The fail- ure of the scheme through the embarrassment caused by the great monetary panic of 1873 need not be here detailed. In the meantime the 35th parallel railroad project was held in abeyance. It has now finally been carried out, and the possibility predicted by General Palmer has become a realized fact. The interest demanding a rail- road to San Diego warranted its construction by private capital, and the work was undertaken six years ago by several of the largest stockholders of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe system, who built the California Southern Railroad from San Diego to San Bernardino, and in 1885 extended it to a junction with the 35th parallel (Atlan- tic & Pacific) railroad. And its shortness and cheapness, and the excellence of the harbor, have caused it to be made the " main line " of the Atchison system through to the Pacific. This result was inev- itable from the beginning. It was subject to delay, but it was none the less certain. The great fact that on a coast line of more than a 44 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. thousand miles nature has fixed but two harbors, separated by an interval of five hundred miles, established the future of San Diego. Sooner or later, the railroad connection was bound to come. The disappointment in the fulfillment of the expectations of the people regarding the 32d parallel road did not kill the town — did not prevent its growth. Its development was of course slow; while other towns, enjoying earlier railroad facilities, went forward rapidly; but still San Diego made a steady progress from year to year. The back country was all the while being settled and brought into cul- tivation; wealth and population showed a regular annual gain; and when the railroad finally came, there was a substantial basis to build upon and the growth of the last six years has been more remarkable than that of any other county in the State. Nature made San Diego the seaport of the southern coast. That fact could neither be ignored nor written out of sight. A continen- tal railway system is vmfinished until it touches tide-water at either extreme and brings ship and car together. The points at which this connection is made are the termini of the line. Of the four great transcontinental railroads in the United States, one reaches Pacific tide-water on Puget Sound, two at the harbor of San Francisco, and one at the harbor of San Diego. These three points on the Pacific Coast are the only ones at which tide-water can be reached and ship and car can be brought together. In the State of California there are precisely two practicable terminal points, San Francisco and San Diego, situated 500 miles apart, each the entj^epot of its own peculiar section — San Francisco of the section north of Point Concepcion, and San Diego of the section south of it. No matter how many continen- tal railroads enter California, they must bring rail and ship together at one or both of these two points. Nature has given no third point, nor can one be made by man adequate to the purpose. Whatever may be the present or future prosperity enjoyed by interior points by reason of their railway connections, they can never hinder or turn aside the peculiar advantages that are possessed by actual terminal points, where ship and car come together. Nor can terminal and interior points in any proper sense ever be rivals. In building to San Francisco and San Diego, the overland railroads had in view the facilities for ocean commerce afforded by these points as the consid- eration of first importance. It was the seaport in each case that was sought. The future of San Diego was just as sure when the first CITY AND PORT OF SAN DIEGO. 45 Pacific Railroad was built, as that of San Francisco. The latter city, with a quarter century's start, has become, and must forever remain the "New York of the Pacific." But the completion of one Pacific Railroad made certain the building of another; and the ex- istence of a second seaport on our coast gave the assurance of the growth of a second commercial city. But it is not alone with reference to the through or transconti- nental railway traffic that the commercial position of San Diego is an important one. This harbor is the natural outlet for a vast interior country, rich in mineral and agricultural resources. It includes the counties of Southern California, as well as Southern Nevada, Southern Utah, and Arizona. The mining regions of this great back country will draw all their supplies from the coast, while this will be the point of shipment for their ores and base metal. They will require rapid transportation to the seaboard and large shipping facilities. Railroads are already reaching down from Nevada and Utah toward a connection with the harbor of San Diego. Feeders will also reach out into the nearer agricultural valleys and connect them with the port. San Diego must surely become the commercial center of a great interior trade, second only in importance to that of San Francisco. All of this was long ago foreseen and pointed out as certain to follow the devel- opment of this interior country, which has been going forward with ever-increasing activity during the last ten years. The opening of the first railroad from San Diego into the interior makes the way clear, and the impulse from the interior to the seaboard is already felt. The situation of the harbor of San Diego with reference to ocean traffic is a commanding one. It is on the nearest sailing line for the trans-Pacific steamships, and is five hundred miles nearer than San Francisco to Australia and New Zealand and all Southern Pacific coast ports.* This advantage of situation cannot fail to have a very * While these pages were being placed in type the writer received a copy of the " San Diego Daily Union," containing the following intelligence : " Mr. J, D. Spreckels had two objects in coming to San Diego at this time. One was in connection with the making this city a port of call for his trans-Pacific line, and the other the launching of a large enterprise in San Diego. The Spreckels Bros. Commercial Company of San Diego has been formed. The company commences business with a capital of $200,000, and its object is the carrying on of a general importing and commission business, together with the building of a bonded warehouse. The idea of such an enterprise suggested itself to Mr. Spreckels on his first visit here a few weeks ago, and, as is seen, he lost no time in putting his idea into shape. ' Why,' said Mr. Spreckels, ' when I saw your magnificent harbor I came to the conclusion that the port of San Diego ought to be the distributing point for Southern California, Arizona, and New Mexico. There is no reason why the Los Angeles merchants should have to go San Francisco to buy goods. There are no warehouses at San Pedro, and it can never be a great seaport. The harbor of San Diego was made for the uses of a great com- merce, and that I.have faith in its future is, I think, attested by the fact that I am willing to invest my capital here. We shall go right ahead with the warehouse and expect to have it ready to receive the cargoes now on the way from 46 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. important bearing upon the future commercial position of the city. To the trade with the Orient, Australasia, the Sandwich Islands, Mexico, Central and South America, the harbor offers the nearest gateway to the interior. The opening of an inter-oceanic canal at Panama or Nicaragua — an event certain in the near future — will give to the port of San Diego still greater importance. Europe. Last year our firm had consigned to it fifty-two ships from European ports. I intend that the coming year fifty two ships, one per week, shall be dispatched to San Diego.' The new company is composed of the following gentlemen: John D. Spreckels, Adolf Spreckels and C. August Spreckels, of San Francisco; Charles T. Hinde and E. S. Babcock, Jr., of this city. The latter gentleman will have charge of the business here. The warehouse will be built on Atlantic street, and will cover two blocks, from F to H streets. It will be of brick, and goods will be re- ceived from vessels and kept in bond until such time as they may be wanted, when they can be shipped to points in the interior or elsewhere as desired. In regard to the steamship matter, Mr. Spreckels stated that he had nothing new to communicate. The Chamber of Commerce and himself will do all they can to have the Colonial mails come via this city. "When he goes to New Zealand, in' a few weeks, he will present the advantages of the route via this city, and from the showing he will be able to make, he is sanguine that San Diego will win the trophy. Mr. Spreckels is accompanied by James McCrindell, of Liverpool, who is largely interested in shipping. The gentleman is agreeably surprised at the harbor, and pronounces it the only harbor on the coast outside of San Francisco, and in some respects it is superior to that, it being more sheltered." CO d (D > u 3 O c Stf O 3 o a H o id O o 01 w ;3 o o O o > CD DQ so c w CD c CD > Pi o 03 pq > d & m a 03 CD O W ES 03 a CO a 3 O tn o a: CO o o esS o 10 Id o o 3 O f-i pq o o o w ft o o pq (33 0) o 1-3 =1-1 o t^ Si o Hi o X 13 id o m O B o ® o a sd xi si It'"- i as CD o a m W CD > > o ft COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO. TOPOGRAPHY OF THE COUNTY. THE County of San Diego is bounded on the north by San Ber- nardino and Los Angeles Counties ; on the east by the Colorado River, dividing it from Arizona; on the south by the Mexican territory of Lower California; on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its area is 14,969 square miles, or more than 9,580,000 acres, being greater than that of either of the States of Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, New Jersey, or Maryland, and nearly as great as that of Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and Delaware combined. Exclusive of the section embraced in the Colorado desert and the mountain country lying adjacent on the east, there are over 3,000,000 acres of valley and mountain land adapted to a diversified agriculture and grazing. An erroneous impression has gone abroad that the greater part of the land in this County is embraced in Spanish or Mexican grants. While there are several large grants in the County, their aggregate acreage, as compared with the total area (exclusive of Desert lands) , is not large. The report of the Surveyor-General in 1880 gave these figures for San Diego County: Total area 9,580,000 acres. Mexican and Spanish grants 784,783 " Public lands 8,795,217 " But of the grants included in the above statement many (aggre- gating an area of 508,818 acres) have long been subdivided. An ap- proximately correct statement of the lands of this County, as open to settlement and purchase, would therefore be as follows : Total area (exclusive of Desert) 3,000,000 acres. Grants (less those subdivided) 275,965 " Subdivided grants 508,818 " Public lands (settled and unsettled) .... 2,215,217 47 48 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. Two mountain ranges run through the County from northwest to southeast, dividing it into three districts, each possessing marked peculiarities of climate and soil. The coast belt, between the mountains and the sea, is exceedingly fertile ; it has now three-fourths of the population and exhibits most of the development of the County. This belt varies from 25 to 40 miles in width and is about 75 miles in length, comprising a series of low, rolling hills, or " mesa " lands, as they are termed, plains and valleys, drained by the Tia Juana, Sweetwater, San Diego, San Bernardo, San Luis Rey, and Santa Margarita Rivers, and several smaller streams. These streams are nearly all dry in the summer months for several miles from their outlets. The San Diego is the largest of them, and in the winter and spring is often unfordable. The middle division of the County lies mainly between the two mountain ranges, and comprises numerous broad and fertile valleys and plains, over which thousands of sheep and cattle may graze all the year ; while in the mountains are rich mineral deposits and exten- sive forests of timber. The natural wealth of this important division of the County is very great, and it is capable of supporting a large population. The cereals and all the fruits of the temperate zone grow here luxuriantly, and the Apple, the Cherry, and the Plum are especially at home. Orchards are multiplying in this section. The third, or Desert division, lies east of the second, or San Jacinto range of mountains. The peak of San Jacinto, at the northern end of the range, is the highest land south of Mount San Bernardino, rising precipitously to the height of 9,000 feet, and its snow-crowned summit appears in strange contrast to the sweltering Desert which it overlooks. Along the eastern base of this range extends the great Coahuila valley, 50 miles in length by 10 in width, connecting southerly with the valley of the New River, which flows from the Colorado in time of freshets and fructifies the fertile lands along its bottoms. The Southern Pacific Railroad crosses this division, enter- ing San Diego County from the San Gorgonio pass, and running thence across the Desert southeasterly to Yuma, about 160 miles. The mountain spurs along the west side of the Colorado are rich in the precious metals, and mining operations have been carried on there for several years. The old military post of Fort Yuma, in the ex- treme southeastern corner of the State, is situated on the San Diego side of the Colorado, on a commanding bluff. The town of Yuma Arizona, stands on the opposite bank. COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO. 49 PRODUCTS OF THE COUNTY. The leading products of the County in point of value are, at the present time, Wheat, Wool, and Honey, in the order named. We say, at the present time^ because Fruit and Vine growing is rapidly becom- ing the chief interest in this County, as nature designed it to be. The Honey interest is very important, San Diego being the chief honey -producing county in California. The Honey yield of 1885 amounted to 2,679,747 pounds, of which nearly 2,000,000 pounds were exported. Some idea of the variety of the productions of the County may be obtained from the following statement of shipments per steamer during one year, taken from the books of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company: Wheat, Wool, Dried Fish, Hides, Whale Oil, Beans, Butter, Flour, Eggs, Olives, Seeds, Salt, Honey, Dried Abelone, Abe- lone Shells, Oranges, Lemons, Dimes, Raisins, Potatoes, Dried Grapes, Sweet Potatoes, Sand, Rags, Coco Mats, Orange Trees, Lime Trees, Guava Trees, Horses, Sheep, Turtles, Onions, Bacon, Buckwheat, Flax Seed, Sea Otter Skins, Leather, and Millet Seed. Stock-raising, eighteen years ago the exclusive interest of the County, is still carried on, but has long ceased to be a leading interest. An estimate, believed to be very nearly accurate, of the live-stock of San Diego County is as follows : Horses, 8,755 ; Mules, 2,552 ; Horned Cattle, 33,548; Sheep, 202,548; Hogs, 22,815. FRUIT-GROWING. San Diego was the last of the counties of Southern California to abandon stock-raising as its leading interest. The immigration of 1868, 1869, 1870, and 1871 was drawn hither by the railroad induce- ments of th£[t period, and was mainly to the town ; the interior was settled slowly. Many of the old residents were skeptical regarding the adaptability of the soil and climate to fruit culture. Yet there were some, even in the earlier days, who believed that nature intended these lands for something better than cattle and sheep pastures. Time has fully justified their belief. While San Diego County began late, she has advanced rapidly. In October, 1885, the first County Fair in the City of San Diego opened at Armory Hall, continuing three days. There were 1569 entries by 535 exhibitors, and 167 first premiums were awarded. 50 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. This exhibition brought together under one roof a very remarkable display of the varied products of the County. Every important sec- tion was represented, embracing all the wide extent of territory from the northern and northwestern boundary line to the frontier of Lower California; from San Jacinto on the north to Tia Juana on the south; from the San Bernardino line to the Pacific Ocean. There were shown, of Deciduous Fruits, 49 exhibits of Apples, from as many different sections of the County, each showing from two to twenty-five varieties of the fruit; thirty- two sections exhibited Pears in great variety; and there were Peaches and Quinces from nearly every section. Figs, Dates, Japan Persimmons, Bananas, Guavas, Pome- granates, etc., were shown in great quantity and variety. While it was not the season for Citrus Fruits, the display of these was, nevertheless, large and fine, and embraced every variety of Orange, Lemon, Lime, Citron, Bergamot, Shaddock, and Pumalo, 27 sections being represented. The season for Grapes had also passed, but still the exhibit was a very fine one. Dried and preserved fruits were shown in great quantity and variety. The display of Raisins was notable, and attracted special atten- tion. Every kind and variety of agricultural product was shown in great quantity; as also mineral products, specimens of manufactures, etc. The hall of the Exhibition is the largest in the city, and its space was crowded with exhibits. It was difficult, while looking at the scene displayed at this Fair, and listening to the comments of the spectators, to realize that only a few years ago the man who had predicted such an exhibition in San Diego would have been regarded as a wild enthusiast. But it was so. When J. M. Asher, now of El Cajon, in 1869 estab- lished his nursery in Paradise Valley, National Ranch, his enterprise was spoken of with derision by old settlers, who firmly believed that "nothing would grow here," and that "it was a stock country, and you could make nothing else out of it," and the like. Then many of the early experiments in tree-planting were undertaken by men, some of whom were without any experience in the business and others whose experience had been gained in the Eastern States or in Northern California, under totally different conditions of soil and cli- mate. Their failures (which were inevitable) seemed to confirm the judgment of the old settlers, and gave strength to the erroneous notion entertained abroad, that because the coast climate of San Diego was arid, the soil must of necessity be sterile. Yet there came here a few thoughtful, observing men, who had lived in arid and yet fertile lands, COUNTY OF" SAN DIEGO. 5 1 who knew the productive capacities of countries where the conditions of soil and climate were strikingly similar to our own, and who were convinced that intelligent cultivation would find a rich reward. The belief thus expressed found hearers who acted upon it. As years passed on came experience, and with experience came success. Suc- cessive experiments led to the adoption of new and better methods. Our farmers and fruit planters learned of each other — learned to avoid the mistakes that had been so costly to the beginners, and to put in practice in a systematic way the economies and utilities that tend to diminish expense and to increase profit. All this had been going on silently in different sections of the County during the last sixteen years. Only the development immediately adjacent to the Bay had attracted any special attention, and it is only six years since the first exhibition of Citrus Fruits was made under the auspices of the National Ranch Grange. None of the fruits then exhibited came from a point farther than fifteen miles from the Bay. Most of them came from points within five miles of it. We knew that people were plant- ing in the interior, and items concerning these developments were published from time to time, but no particular impression was made on the public mind. Only the comparatively few whose business occasionally called them into the country, were cognizant of the advancement made. So true is the saying that "seeing is believing." That first Citrus Fair did a good work. It was the first step toward awakening a general public interest in the horticultural resources of the County, and the successive exhibitions that followed it, each devel- oped a stronger and stronger interest. The success of our Citrus Fruit growers in competitions at State and District Fairs over sections where this production was the acknowledged specialty, aroused County pride and stimulated producers to their best efforts. The advent of the railroad revealed to us something of our interior country, and we began to hear of development in the San Luis Rey and San Jacinto Valleys, and at points along the line. At^he same time, the change from wheat-growing to fruit culture had been, going on in the Cajon Valley; the peculiar adaptation of that valley to the Raisin Grape was discovered ; while in the orchards of the Sweetwater, Spring Val- ley, and other fruit-growing sections, trees and vines were continually coming into bearing. We began to hear, too, that in our summit valleys, and in the mountain country, people were making a great success of fruit-growing, as well as in the cultivation of grain. The 52 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. Julian orchards, and those of the Mesa Grande and the Palomar regions, were spoken of with admiration by all who had seen them. Lumbermen who sold fencing and building material to the interior, and nurserymen who sold trees and plants, had some knowledge of the actual transformation that had come over our extensive back coun- try. Thus, when the subject of holding a County Fair began to be agitated, the gentlemen of our Horticultural Society were confident that a fairly creditable showing might be made. But even those best informed had not conceived of the magnitude of the development of the County, and the result excited astonishment, as well as admira- tion, surpassing as it did the most sanguine expectations of the pro- moters and managers of the exhibition. In an article reviewing this Fair, the San Diego " Daily Union " of October 31, 1885, gave the fol- lowing suggestive contrast : "In contemplating these achievements of the people of our County in the line of horticultural and agricultural development, it will be both interesting and profitable to turn back a few leaves in our local history, as recorded in the volumes of the "Union." "In 1870 the population of this County was 4,951, half of the population being in the City. The total value of property of all kinds in the County was $1,722,837, of which two-thirds was in the City. There were 1,790 houses in the County, more than half of them (915) being in the City. Statistics of production set down the total number of fruit trees in the County, of all kinds, at 223; total number of grape vines, 1,487; acres planted to grain (wheat, barley, and corn), 3,126. In an editorial article on the resources of the County, written in March, 1870, the present writer said; "'In considering the resources of San Diego County we are struck with the really wonderful agricultural capacity of the soil. The climate is such, in the different sections of the County, that all the cereals may be" raised in great abun- dance, as well as every variety of fruit known to either the sub-tropical (we might even include the tropical) or temperate zone. Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Citrons, Figs, Bananas, Almonds, and the Grape; Apples, Pears, Peaches, Apricots, and the other deciduous fruits; Berries of all kinds; and the Olive — -whose future impor- tance is perhaps greatest of all — these fruits, many of them, are now cultivated in a few places with remarkable success. We believe we shall see the day when horticulture will become one of our most important resources. We know that these remarks will make men smile, not only abroad, but here at home. The ex- clusive attention to stock raising, which has prevailed from the beginning, has given us the first place among the "cow counties," and many — indeed the great majority — of our old residents consider the broad domain of San Diego County as adapted in a. profitable way only to stock grazing. But we have an abiding faith that these lands were meant for better things — better in the "paying" sense, as well as in other ways — and the great herds of long-horned cattle will have to COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO. 53 retire before the plowman and the tree-planter. It will not be long before we shall not only eat bread from our own wheat, but shall have an abundant surplus to export; when we shall luxuriate in the abundance of the kindly fruits of the soil, and send to other lands the rich products of the orchards and vine- yards of San Diego.' " Fifteen years and a half have passed. We count the population of our County to-day, by the most conservative estimate, at 18,000 souls, while 20,000 is probably more near the mark. The total assessed value is more than f 11,000,000. No recent census of the houses in the County has been taken, but the increase may be judged by the growth in other respects. There are to-day in this County, according to the latest statistics: Grape Vines, 468,896; Apple Trees, 25,425; Peach, 26,260; Pear, 19,125; Plum, 3,258; Cherry, 917; Nectarine, 880; Fig, 69,194; Quince, 2,860; Apricot, 86,295; Orange, 96,240; Lemon, 57,100; Olive, 46,000; Prunes, 1,120; Almond, 10,800; Walnut, 21,385 — making a grand total of 855,011. From reports of local nurserymen, it is believed that the number of fruit trees planted the present year will be at least twice as great as in any previous year. " For several years it was a disputed question abroad whether San Diego really had a 'back country.' In fact, there are not a few who are yet in doubt about it. Even at home we have had our share of people dubious on this point. But this County Fair exhibits accomplished results. It fixes the position of San Diego as a great producing section. Our ' back country ' has come to the front, to stay there." For a long time tlie notion prevailed tliat the chief obstacle to fruit culture in San Diego was the small comparative amount of rain- fall and the expense of irrigation. Experience has demonstrated this notion to be fallacious. In all the valleys, such as Tia Ju-ana, Cajon, Sweetwater, San Dieguito, San Luis Rey, etc., water is easily obtained within six to eighteen feet of the surface, and trees frequently thrive without irrigation. These soils are remarkable for their retention of moisture. It has been found, too, that the " mesa," or uplands, which were formerly thought of little value, produce the very choicest grapes and fruits, with no other irrigation than can be had at com- paratively small expense from ordinary wells. We mention here, as an example of what may be done with a very small piece of land, the results obtained by the High brothers, on their 5-acre tract in Chollas Valley, about two miles from the City of San Diego. They have Orange, Lemon, Lime, Apple, Peach, Pear, Fig, Apricot, and other fruit trees ; Guava bushes. Grape vines (several varieties) , Vegetable garden. Melon patch, Blackberry, Strawberry, and Raspberry beds. Their irrigating facilities consist of two wells with windmills. The two brothers do their own work. Their net income from this tract (supplying the market of San Diego with fruit and vegetables) is 54 PICTURESQUE SAN DiEGO. from $1,500 to $2,000 a year. In one season, from less than 100 feet square, they sold over $400 worth of Blackberries ; and from a still smaller area over $100 worth of Guavas. This is not a rare instance; the place of Albert Haffenden, and half a dozen others in the same Valley, might be cited. In all the valleys, five and ten miles from town, similar small tracts may be found. But the notion of lack of rains sufficient for successful cultiva- tion is an error, so far as it relates to the country lying from 30 to 40 miles inland from the coast. In the great northwestern section of the County the rainfall is nearly always ample for grain crops; in the northern and northeastern sections a lack of rain is the excep- tion, while in the great range of country that we may call the moun- tain region, with all its summit valleys, the rainfall not only never fails, but is rather excessive. No better evidence of this could be had than the fact that in past seasons of drought cattle men in Los Angeles and Santa Barbara Counties drove their stock into our moun- tains and leased pasturage land from the grant owners in that section. The very small rainfall at the coast gives no basis for a judgment of the whole County. PROFITS OF FRUIT CULTURE. The fruit industry of California has made gigantic strides within the past few years. Our fruit, either green, dried, or canned, is already to be found everywhere. Even in the orchard and vineyard districts of Europe our fruits are appreciated and sought after to such an ex- tent that the demand far exceeds the supply. In no country in the world is the fruit crop so abundant as here. Seventeen tons of fruit to the acre from a well-kept orchard is not an uncommon thing; and 8 to 10 tons to the acre is a fair average for an 8 to lo-year-old orchard. Besides semi-tropic fruits, the Grape, Apricot, Apple, Peach, Pear, Plum, Nectarine, and all the varieties of fruits common to the Northern and Middle States, can be grown here most successfully. This is the natural home of the Grape. Both raisin and wine varieties grow and bear exceptionally well. No part of the United States offers such superior advantages for successful raisin culture. The resources of San Diego County in this respect are not ex- celled on the Pacific Coast. Reference has been made to the County Fair, held in San Diego in October, 1885. A second exhibit was made here November i8tli and 19th, at the time of the Railroad Celebra- COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO. 55 tion, on which occasion Major Levi Chase, of El Cajon, at the invita- tion of the County Horticultural Society, delivered an address, in the course of which he said : " Here it is in the last half of November, at a time when it would not be expected we would be able to make even a respectable exhibit of fruits, but, late as it is, we are proud of the exhibit made, and are willing to compare it with that made by any section of California or any section of the United States, and I will say with that from any part of the world that I have ever seen, or that you have ever seen. And let me call your attention to another fact, that these fruits are not fruits raised in a few choice spots, or in the little warm valleys lying near to San Diego. You know it has been said that San Diego has no 'back country.' Let me call your attention to the exhibit at the rear end of this hall. That ex- hibit is from the interior, fifty miles back from here, in the mountains of Julian. We are willing to challenge the world to produce apples in comparison with these. They have not been grown on little, rich, fertile spots, and where water has been poured on to the ground day after day. That fruit is raised without one drop of irrigation, upon the rich mesa lands where timber grows around them. There are thousands of acres in the County as good as those which have produced the fruit you see here. I might say the same in regard to the great mass of fruit here on exhibition. I will venture to say that not one-tenth of the fruit you see to-day has ever been irrigated, or had one drop of water, except what the heavens have given. We have no flowing rivers of any extent from which we can be supplied with water, and I have sometimes thought it a great blessing to the country that we have none. Where they have had it they have come to the conclusion that nothing can be done unless the ground is flooded day by day with water, and they have produced fruits that are not worthy of being tested in comparison with ours. Their fruits are not equal to ours in any respect; and that is not my view alone, but the judgment of every impartial man who has tested the question. It has been demonstrated to the world that fruit as good as can be raised in any part of the world can be raised in San Diego County without irrigation, and in abundance. Here you have the evidence of that before you. It is not true that San Diego County has no 'back country.' Look at this stretch of country lying to the east of us, loo miles in length and over 50 miles in depth. A stranger riding over that country would pronounce it worthless, as many of us supposed it was in a time gone by. You have cleared off the brush, and turned up with the plow as rich an alluvial soil as can be found in any part of the world, and the chapparal slopes have proved to be the best fruit country — better to-day, and worth more money, acre for acre, than many of our valley lands. There are thousands of acres of that land that were considered worthless heretofore, worth more to-day than land selling in Los Angeles County for $250 an acre. But supposing there is only one-sixth of that whole extent of country susceptible of improvement, and that will produce these fruits, then what do we have ? We have more than 500,000 acres of land that is capable of producing just what you see here to-day. We challenge the world to produce a better exhibit than we have here to-day; and this is but a slight 56 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. sample of what we will give you next year. We are in our infancy. This is the first effort. Next year we shall surpass this. I am not over-sanguine; I have never been over-sanguine. I am not drawing on the imagination. I am presenting facts supported by the evidence presented here to you to-day; and I want you when you leave this room to make inquiry, to visit the country, see where this fruit is produced, and you will then be satisfied that all we claim for San Diego is well founded — that San Diego is destined to become one of the wealthiest sections in the United States." THE GRAPE. Ten acres of vines will provide a competency for a family, and is land enough for any man of moderate means to cultivate. It is three years before a vineyard commences to pay, and from that time on, if well cultivated, it will yield on an average 4 tons of grapes to the acre. They will bring from $20 to $35 per ton, according to quality. In many cases vineyards have averaged 7 and 8 tons per acre. This gives for 10 acres, at the low price of $20 per ton for grapes, for the lesser yield, seven tons, $1,400, and for the larger yield, eight tons, $1,600. By industry and intelligent care, any poor man in California may become well off in 10 years on 10 acres of vineyard land. J. DeBarth Shorb, President of the California Horticultural Society, gives the following figures, showing the cost of i acre of vineyard: Plowing twice before planting, at |2 $4 00 Harrowing and pulverizing the same ro Cuttings (1,000 vines, six feet apart) r 00 Planting, per acre 2 00 Two plowings after planting ^ Cultivation and final pulverization co Total cost, end of first year iic 00 SECOND YEAR. Pruning, per acre ^ Plowing twice, at fi. CO . „ , . . ' If J •••■••. ^ 00 Cultivating twice, at 50 cents ... TT ■ ^i_ ■ I CO Hoeing near the vine .... 1 00 Total cost, second year . . . ~T • $6 00 THIRD YEAR. Pruning the vines and removing the wood Plowing twice ■ • f 2 50 Cultivating twice • • • 3 00 Hoeing near the vine .... ■ • ■ ■ i 00 • ■ • 1 50 Total cost, third year ~ $8 00 COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO. 57 In the fourth yeai», the expenses of pruning and removing the wood from the vineyard will be increased one dollar more, or to $3.50 per acre; all the other expenses remain the same as during the third year. The vineyard is now in good paying condition, and ought to pay from $50 to $100 per acre. RAISINS. There is no valid reason why California Raisins, equal in quality, should not entirely supersede the Malaga product in the United States, thereby adding millions to our national wealth. The following statement is for two acres of 3 -year-old vines in Raisin Grapes. When planted the vines were rooted i-year-old slips. The following year the crop of Raisins was 140 20-pound boxes. The second year the crop of Raisins was 475 boxes, of which there were 400 boxes London Layers, sold at $2.00 $800 00 75 boxes London Layers, sold at $1.50 112 50 Gross receipts $912 50 EXPENSES. Boxes and paper $63 25 Pruning and cultivation 33 00 Picking 35 00 Packing in boxes 40 00 $171 25 Net profits from 2 acres Raisin Grapes .... $74i 25 San Diego Raisins are conceded by the highest authority to be the finest production of California. The success which has been reached in Raisin-making in the Cajon Valley, 15 miles from the city and port of San Diego, is a sufi&cient demonstration of the peculiar advantages possessed by this County for that industry. Mr. George A. Cowles, of that Valley, held his entire pack of the season of 1885, 3,000 boxes, and published a challenge to the world to meet him in San Francisco with an equal number of boxes, either California raised or imported, and subinit them to the comparison of experts — the ex- hibitor of the best 3,000 boxes to take the whole lot. He found no takers. In the address at the County Fair by Major Chase, already quoted from, he said of the Raisin product: 58 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. " I believe it is destined to exceed any other thmg introduced here, because it has been demonstrated that it has been a success in every part of the County wherever it has been tried, from San Diego to Julian. We may safely say that two tons of Raisins to the acre would not be a high estimate. Raisins are worth over ten cents a pound in the open market. Two tons of Raisins gives $500 an acre as the product of our soil. Compare this with the products of the rich farming countries of the West (though east from here) — Illinois, Nebraska, Kansas, Iowa, anywhere in that section. If they produce there fifteen bushels of wheat to the acre, they are getting a good average crop. If that is worth to them $12 upon the ground, they are getting a good average price. If they raise thirty bushels of corn to the acre, they are getting a good crop; and if it nets them year by year twenty-five cents a bushel, they are getting a good price; hence, the product of an acre of corn would be $7.50. Now make the calcula- tion, and you will find that it would take fifty-four acres of corn to produce the number of dollars and cents that one acre of Raisins will produce, and you may carry your calculation right on, and you will find that 500,000 acres (and that is a low estimate of what we have in this County of good arable land sufficiently fertile to produce the fruits we have here, together with the Raisins before you) — carry on that calculation and what do you have? The product of that five hundred thousand acres of fruit land is equal to the product of twenty-seven millions of acres of farm land. Now, if we could practically surround this place with twenty-seven millions of acres of such land as that, all tributary to San Diego, for it must inevitably come here for its trade, and conducing to the build- ing up of this City, would we think we had no back country? Oh, no ! no one would imagine it. And yet I assert here to-day, that five hundred thousand acres of land in cultivation in the Raisin, and in the Olive, and in the Orange, and in the fruits presented here to-day are better for the building up of an intel- ligent, enterprising, and wealthy community than twenty-seven millions of acres of the best corn land that ever lay out of doors. This corn land must be culti- vated in large farms; houses must be from a mile to a mile and a half apart; while laborers could successfully cultivate small farms of ten, fifteen, and twenty acres, which would be big enough to make a man comfortable, yea, independent. This would bring settlements together, and conduce to the building of society and churches and schools. It requires more intelligence to cultivate fruits than it does to make corn, and the natural result is that a man engaged in this busi- ness will commence to read, study; commence to educate his children; and in communities so dense he can well afford to provide good schools for them and churches for them to attend. The result of the yield of 500,000 acres in dollars and cents is equal to 27,000,000 acres of corn land, but the result upon the com- munity is far better with the 500,000 acres thus cultivated than the 27 000 000 of acres cultivated in corn. Can I be disputed in this by any man?" Experienced Raisin-growers, after examining different parts of the State, have settled in San Diego County, knowing that no other section offers such superior advantages for this profitable branch of fruit culture. COUNTY OF SAN DIEGO, 59 THE OLIVE. Cuttings taken from bearing trees, and planted where they are to remain, will pay expenses of cultivation the third year. Ten acres will support a family the fourth year, and ever afterward be a source of rich revenue. Olive trees in this County have produced at a crop from $ioo to $150 per tree. The Olive has become an article of uni- versal consumption. Its oil is indispensable in medicine and surgery and is largely used in the manfacture of fine woolen goods. There is no limit to the demand for it. Olive culture offers conditions pecu- liarly adapted to Southern California. It requires a warm, dry land, and will not flourish in moist soil. Trees are now growing in San Diego County that at eight years old produced 2,000 gallons of Olives to the acre. The European standard is eight gallons of Olives to one gallon of oil, which gives a product of 250 gallons of oil per acre. The oil sells readily at $5 per gallon, which gives an income of $1,250 an acre for the best eight-year-old trees. The net income from such a crop would be not less than $1,000 per acre, and, with good care, the crop is large and sure from year to year for a century. THE ORANGE. That Orange culture is profitable is attested by indisputable facts. One of the Orange-growers of Southern California makes the following statement of his own experience " By a careful estimate of the crop of an orchard of 436 trees, 309 of which were 12 years old from the seed (the balance being too young to bear), I obtained as a net result over and above cost of transportation, commission on sales, etc., $20 per tree, or an average of $1,435 P^r acre. I do not claim this as an average crop or result; but I do claim that, with proper care and attention, the average yield can be made to equal f 1,000 per acre for 1 2-year-old trees." The Orange is a long-lived tree, retaining its fruitfulness to a great age. THE LEMON. The commercial importance of the Lemon can hardly be over- estimated, for the area of country on which this fruit can be success- fully and profitably grown is much more limited than is the area adapted to the Orange. It is more susceptible to the influence of frost than is the Orange. The Lemon is a prime necessity, the quantity 6o PICTURESQUE SAN DiEGO. imported into the United States being almost incredible. San Diego County alone could easily supply the markets of North America. The editor of the " Riverside Press," L. M. Holt, than whom no man in Southern California is better authority, says : " We note this as a horticultural fact, and desire to give San Diego the credit of having a climate better adapted to the growth of the Lemon than that pos- sessed by any other locality north of that County on the coast." The yield is nearly as large and profitable as the Orange. THE APPLE. San Diego County can compete with the world in the successful production of perfect Apples. Neither New York nor Michigan can produce better fruit, while here our trees come into bearing in one- half the time and bear much more than the same varieties of fruit in Bastem Apple districts. It was long supposed that Apples could not be successfully produced in a section of the country so far south ; but those who doubted failed to take into account the important fact that the climate of the mountain region and that of the coast diflPer very widely. It has, however, been found that excellent Apples can be grown near the coast, as has been shown at National City, in Paradise Valley, Sweetwater Valley, and, nearer still, in the Chollas Valley. But the Apple reaches its perfection in the mountain region. We believe James Madison, of Julian, is the pioneer Apple-grower of that section. His success led others to plant Apple trees, who also found profit in it. Chester Gunn, of Julian, has 2,000 Apple trees, and pro- poses to make Apple-growing a specialty ; Gedney, Morris, and many others on the Mesa Grande and in the Julian section, have thrifty orchards and produce Apples that would bear off the palm in any Fair in an Eastern Apple country. Views showing portions of these orchards are among our illustrations. The season when these views were taken was unfavorable, the trees not yet being in leaf. What has been said of Apples in the mountain section is equally true of the Pear, the Cherry, and the Plum. Prunes, especially, do well there; while, in every fruit-growing portion of the County, the Peach, Apricot, Fig, Quince, and " fancy" fruits, such as Guavas Pomegranates, Citrons, Japan Persimmons, and the Strawberry and Blackberry grow in equal perfection, and all may be made to yield profitable returns. COUNTY OF' SAN DIEGO. 6 1 THE COUNTY AT LARGE. The total assessed property valuation in San Diego County for the year 1887 is, in round numbers, $19,500,000. The railroad appor- tionment has not yet been announced, but if it shall be the same as that of 1886 (and it will probably exceed it) the total valuation will be, in round numbers, $23,000,000. This is $9,500,000 more than the valuation of 1886; it is more than double the valuation of 1885, and is a gain of $14,250,000 over the valuation of 1884. Excluding the railroad apportionment in both years, the assessment of 1887 is over $1,500,000 more than seven times as great as that of 1880. The gain in population is quite as remarkable. The total population of the County at this date is estimated to be 50,000. This is a gain over the same date in 1886 of 15,000; over the corresponding date in 1885 of more than 30,000, and over 1884 of more than 35,000. It is nearly six times the population of 1880. In the last edition of "San Diego," published January i, 1886, a statement illustrative of the remarkable progress of settlement in the County during the preceding year was given, in the form of a list of the public land entries that had been made in twelve months. It has not been possible to procure a similar statement for the year 1886 (although the effort has been made) , the record not having been made up. But the figures for 1885 will bear republication. In brief, in- cluding State lieu land selections and i6th and 36th section purchases, 222,162^ acres of public lands were entered in San Diego County in the year named; 169,180 acres were entered under the homestead and pre-emption laws. During the last eighteen months we know that there has been a constant stream of immigration into the interior of the County. Naturally, settlement has been largest along the line of the California Southern Railroad, although that road passes for the greater part along the outer edge of the agricultural section of the County. But lately the new-comers have been pushing their way farther inland, and points that two or three years ago had but half a dozen inhabitants can now count their population by the hundred. The illustrations in this book will show more plainly than any descriptive writing can do that there is a real "back country" behind the City of San Diego ; and while it was our aim in obtaining these views to secure the picturesque features of our scenery, it was also our purpose to show that there really is water in this so-called "dry" 62 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. country — that there is not only water, but an abundance of it.* The season in which*we were compelled to make our artistic tour was per- haps the most unfavorable possible; there had been no rain, or snow in the mountains, of any consequence, for several months; the trees in the orchards had not yet come into foliage and blossom. But there the country is, just as we found it, faithfully reproduced with the unerring accuracy of the photograph. It may well be left to speak for itself. Of statistical information enough has been given. It has been sufficiently shown, we think, that San Diego's growth is based upon substantial foundations. We pass to a more detailed description of the several representative sections of the County. * Several months ago, Mr. James D. Schuyler, Assistant State Engineer, ofiicially visited San Diego County for the purpose of investigating the irrigation water supply. His tour of investigation was extended throughout the County, occupying nearly two months. At the conclusion of his work, at the request of the editor of the " Daily Union," he gave that journal the subjoined synopsis of the result of his investigation: "Careful investigation has convinced me that the supply furnished by the rain in the mountains forty to sixty miles back from the coast, properly husbanded, is ample for all probable necessities. From. Temecula south to the Mexican border there are over one thousand square miles of territory draining seaward, ranging in altitude from 2,500 feet upwards, upon which the observed rainfall is reported to be never less than 25 inches and often reaches 60 inches. It will be readily admitted that every square mile of this area, therefore, must shed more than sufficient water to irrigate an equal area within the dry belt along the coast, and we may roughly say that the waste water flowing to the sea within this section in the driest years is sufficient to irrigate half a million acres of land. Is it practicable to store water in the rainy season to maintain the needed supply throughout the year? Nature has provided great numbers of flat, commodious valleys, with narrow outlets, w^ell adapted to the construc- tion of retaining dams, for which the best of material, solid granite, is generally supplied on the spot. Indeed the entire County is remarkable in this respect. I know of no other section of California containiug so many large and capacious sites for reservoirs. Their conversion into artificial lakes is a mere question of cost aud engineering skill. A doubt has been frequently raised as to their being made water-tight, and fears have been expressed that the fissures everjTvhere to be seen in the mountains would swallow up the contents of the reservoirs when filled. The best answer to this objection may be given by referring to the frequent natural ponds and lakes in the mountains. Wherever a valley is level or a slight elevation at its outlet obstructs its drainage, water may be found standing the year round. " As the first irrigation project of any magnitude in the County, the works of the San Diego Flume Com- pany, now under construction, are naturally regarded with special interest. As a type of many similar works that may be carried out successfully in the County, I have given them careful attention, the more so as the surveys, plans, and levelings of the Company have given me more exact data to examine than I have had in other sections. Briefly stated, they propose to divert the waters of the San Diego River, at a point 35 miles above San Diego, where, at an altitude of 800 feet, all the higher mountain drainage is concentrated, and carry them in an open flume a distance of nearly 50 miles to San Diego. The surplus waters of the upper Sweetwater and Santa Isabel Rivers are to be diverted into the higher tributaries of the San Diego, Reservoirs covering 300 to.'i,2oo acres are to be con- structed to store the winter rains, and furui.sh a suiumer supply when the streams fail. Three reservoirs are to be immediately constructed, and several others are selected for construction if required. Their flume is projected to carry 5,000 miner's inches of water (100 cubic feet per second). A miner's inch is considered adequate to irrigate ten acres in orchard or vineyard, and many important districts have to eke out one inch to thirty acres. At the former rate the supply to be carried will be adequate for the irrigation of 50,000 acres of land. In Riverside and elsewhere water adds an immediate value to dry land of Jioo to $150 per acre. Applying these figures to equally desirable lands in this County, it requires but a simple calculation to establish the disproportionate relations be- tween cost and value of water for irrigation. The feasibility of constructing a flume of this icharacter along the mountain sides for such a distance cannot be questioned. There are too many precedents to such works to raise a doubt on that score. The loss of water by evaporation will not exceed one-half of one per cent, of the maximum flow, and leakage may be reduced to a small amount by careful construction and calking seams. " Comparing this County with other sections of the State, I have noticed several advantages favoring irri- gation development, aside from the one mentioned of a remarkable number of storage reservoir sites, viz., the general freedom of the higher mountain streams from sand and fine debris that would tend to fill up and destroy reservoirs, and the absence of landslides that are so much to be dreaded. The soft granite may be cut vertically and stands for years without a slip or slide into the excavation. " In my report I will endeavor to do justice to all possible projects of irrigation of any general importance in the County." o o o CD P c ei en o d) sd a a si >:, O o o s 3 O CD cd m I Ph Q) > C CO (D Q cs c '-+3 CD > a a a o > o D3 CD 5 C ctf M CD O >5 CD ft ft Falls (146 ft.) East Branch of San Diego River. Santa Isabel Creek. Trails of Pauma Creek. POINTS NEAR THE BAY. CHOLLAS VALLEY. THIS beautiful little Valley lies within tlie municipal limits of San Diego, being two miles east of Horton's Addition. We liave elsewhere referred to the model five-acre orchard and farm of the High brothers in this Valley. Beginning near the outlet of the Valley we find the well known place called " The Nest," a splendid orchard, owned by J. h. Atwood; then comes the place of the High brothers, the " Bates" place, now known as the " Dells," owned by Mr. Keat- ing, the superb farm, orchard, and vineyard of Albert Hafifenden, who has 26 acres, upon which are produced every kind of fruit that can be named, and vegetables of all kinds. Haffenden's Strawberries, Rasp- berries, and Blackberries are the only fruits in the production of which .any irrigation is employed. In the middle of August, 1884, he ex- hibited Olives, Pears, Peaches, Apples, Quinces, French Prunes, Pomegranates, Lemons, Dimes, Oranges, Nectarines, Figs, Guavas, Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, five varieties of Grapes, Tomatoes, five varieties of Muskmelons and Cantaloupes, five varie- ties of Watermelons, Sweet and Irish Potatoes, Squashes, Pumpkins, Chestnut Berries, Cabbages, Carrots, Beets, Onions (thirteen of which weighed over two pounds each), Egyptian Corn, etc., to show what could be produced by thorough cultivation without irrigation. The places of the late Rev. Dr. R. V. Dodge, and the late Will M. Smith, Esq., and W. G. Rifenberg (the latter in the " south" branch of the Valley) are all worthy of note, being among the finest of the orchards and vineyards in this vicinity. Lands rated from $200 to $500 per acre. 63 64 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. NATIONAL CITY. Four miles south of San Diego, on the Bay frontage of the National Ranch. The California Southern Railroad has its machine and car shops, yards, etc., and a wharf here. Present population about 1,500. Post-office, express office, telephone station. Daily mail service. There is an excellent hotel, a fine two-story public school-house, horticultural hall, grange hall. Congregational and Episcopal church edifices, several stores, lumber yard, drug stores, etc., etc., and numerous handsome and elegant residences, with gar- dens and orchards. Among the principal orchards are those of Frank A. and Warren C. Kimball, B. Steele, J. Steele, Sholl, Floyd, Walker, and George L. Kimball. Olive culture on an extensive scale has been undertaken by Frank Kimball, who is the authority on the Olive in this County. In all of these orchards the citrus fruits are grown with remarkable success, the Navel Oranges grown by W. C. Kimball being "first premium" fruit. The Muscat Grape is the specialty of George L. Kimball. E. Steele has the finest Apricot orchard in this section. Adjoining National City, and partly within its limits, is Paradise Valley, the most highly cultivated portion of the Ranch. Here are numerous orchards and vineyards, in which every kind of fruit is produced to perfection. The places of Steele, Swan, Mrs. Brewster, Swayne, Aylworth, Fleming, Strahl, Owens, Borden, and others cannot be surpassed in productiveness, acre for acre, in any part of the State. A Sanitarium and Invalids' Home has been erected in this Valley by Mrs. Dr. Potts. On the east, the Sweetwater Valley presents another succession of orchards and vineyards, prominent among which may be named the places of H. M. Higgins, W. W. Whitney, J. C. Frisbie, William Doyle, M. S. Wells, A. F. Currier, James Currier, and others. Mr. Higgins has several thousand Orange and Lemon trees, his Lemon orchard being one of the largest in the State. All of these places produce the citrus fruits in perfection. Olives and Raisins from Frisbie's place are notably fine. Referring to the lands of the National Ranch, it may be stated that at the Cali- fornia State Fair of 1879, the Riverside Citrus Fair of 1880, the Southern District Fair at Los Angeles in 1880, the Riverside Citrus Fair in 1882, and the Southern California Citrus Fair at Riverside in 1883, first premiums were awarded citrus fruits grown on this Ranch. Besides the citrus fruits, the Grape of all varieties, especially the POINTS NEAR THE BAY. 65 Muscat, or Raisin Grape, the Peach, Apple, Pear, and all of the ber- ries reach perfection. The most important enterprises of the past year at National City have been developed by the Land and Town Company. These are the Motor Railroad and the Sweetwater Dam. The former gives rapid and easy communication with the City of San Diego, as well as with the valleys of the Otay and Tia Juana on the east. A connec- tion is now being built to the Cajon Valley. The Sweetwater Dam is intended to divert the waters of that stream so as to give National and vicinity an abundant supply of pure water for household and irri- gating purposes.* The effect of these works has been seen in the remarkable increase in population and building improvements, not only in National City itself, but all along the line of the Motor Road and in the valleys eastward. The gap between National and San Diego is swiftly filling up, and it will not be long before there is prac- tically one city all around the bay shore. MONUMENT. This is the name of the voting precinct which, embraces the Otay and Tia Juana Valleys. The Otay is about twelve and the Tia Juana about sixteen miles southeast of San Diego. Both Valleys have been settling up very rapidly during the last two years. The Otay has many fine farms and orchards, and is now reached by the Motor Rail- road from San Diego and National City. The Tia Juana Valley is one of the finest vine, fruit, and vegetable growing sections near the Bay. In this Valley, near the Mexican boundary line, the village of Tia Juana is situated, partly in Mexico and partly in the United States. On the Mexican side a custom-house is maintained. Three miles below the celebrated hot sulphur springs are reached. It is be- lieved that similar springs will be developed on the Artierican side, as strong indications of their existence have been found. The price of land in Otay and Tia Juana ranges from $50 to $100 per acre, accord- ing to location, etc. OLD TOWN. Returning westward we take up "Old Town" as the next point on the Bay. This is the First Ward of the City of San Diego. It is three miles northwest of the City proper, between them lying the * Work had not begun on the Sweetwater Dam when our artist was in the field. Our illustration is from a pen-drawing, made while this work was in press. 66 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. beautiful mesa called Middletown. The construction of the electric street railway (now in progress) is causing this small intervening space to fill up very fast. The Middletown mesa will soon be crowned with fine residences, as the view afforded is one of the finest on the Bay. Old Town was the town of San Diego, the county-seat and center of business up to 1868. Prior to that time the shipping did not come up the Bay beyond La Playa, where the Custom-house was located and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company had a landing and coaling station. A road led up to the town five miles. The building of "New" San Diego, directly on the bay shore, and the transfer of the Court-house and public business generally to the center of activ- ity caused the historic old town to fall into temporary decay. Its time of revival is now at hand. The California Southern Railroad runs around the Middletown shore of the Bay and through the lower part of the old town, where it crosses the former bed of the river, which is now diverted into False Bay. As building extends west- ward around the slopes of Middletown, the handsome residence loca- tions in the old pueblo will be covered with homes, and with the com- pletion of the projected street railway system, there will be seen a continuous city, reaching from the mouth of the Sweetwater Valley, on the east, around to the river on the west. Old Town is officially designated in the Post-office Department as "North San Diego." There is a post-office, hotel, store, a fine large public school-house, Catholic church, etc. The population of this Ward is about 1,000. MISSION VALLEY Is situated three miles north of the business center of the city of San Diego. Through it runs the San Diego River. It may be reached either by way of Old Town, which lies at the mouth of the Valley, or by the road over the mesa and new grade, which strikes it some two miles farther up. The Valley is about six miles in length, varying from one-half to one mile in width. Near its eastern terminus is the Old Mission Church and Olive orchard. The Valley contains some of the most productive land in the County. The lower and more sandy portions are well adapted to the growing of Alfalfa and other grasses, while the higher benches are excellent for the growth of trees, grains, and vegetables. An abundance of good water underlies the whole surface, at a depth ranging from three to ten feet in the dry season. The larger portion of the Valley, comprising the west POINTS NEAR THE BAY. 67 end, belongs to the Pueblo grant, and hence is included within the corporate limits of the City of San Diego. Land in this section sells at from $75 to $150 per acre. SPRING VALLEY. Ten miles east of San Diego. Population about 300. This is a thrifty fruit-growing and farming section, containing a number of fine orchards and vineyards. Potatoes have been largely raised in this Valley for the San Francisco market. Capt. R. K. Porter, who resided here for many years, sold his farm some time ago to Mr. H. H. Bancroft, the historian, who has made, and is continuing, very extensive improvements, and will have one of the finest farms and orchards in the vicinity of San Diego. The place embraces about 700 acres of land, and Mr. Bancroft has already planted several hun- dred acres in Raisin Grapes, one hundred acres in Olives, and several acres in Guavas. This will probably become the largest Olive orchard in California, not excepting the famous one at Santa Barbara. The place of the McRae brothers in this Valley, which we believe has been recently sold, has long been noted for its fine citrus and other fruits, and is a very beautiful orchard. Burbeck, Tomeney, and others have fine places. A good Public School is maintained in the Valley. Lands are held at $75 to $250 per acre, according to location. EL CAJON. This Valley is situated 15 miles northeast of San Diego. It is one of the largest and richest valleys in the County. Population about 1,000. It is filling up rapidly with the best class of people. Three lines of telephone connect the Valley with the City. The Cajon has over 15,000 acres of valley land, and nearly as much more mesa and hill land, adapted to the vine. The total area of the rancho is 57,000 acres. Of the valley land, there were last season about 2,000 acres in fruit trees and over 2,500 acres in raisin grape vines. The acreage in vines and fruits will be more than doubled this season. The soil in this Valley varies from bright red to chocolate color, show- ing the presence of oxide of iron, which gives the color and flavor to fruits. It is composed of a succession of deposits from sea water, containing calcareous matter, being, in fact, a red marl. A peculiarity of this soil has been noted by Prof. White, of the State Agricultural College of Ohio, who found that soil taken from the bottom of wells 6B PICTURESOUK SAN DIEGO. in the Valley will produce a ranker growth of vegetation than the top soil, showing that the nourishment is more than sufficient where the roots strike down for water. The water supply is abundant, wells reaching it in from 5 to 25 feet in any part of the Valley. Among the largest owners of orchards and vineyards in this Val- ley are Maj. Levi Chase, Geo. A. Cowles, H. P. McKoon, Uri Hill, A. W. Hawley, M. Sherman, J. M. Asher, and B. P. Hill. There are several other large places whose owners have so lately purchased there that we cannot readily name them. A great deal of the planting is of recent date. The older orchards and vineyards now in bearing produce the very finest flavored fruits, showing a range of profitable production embracing the Orange, Olive, Raisin and Table Grape, Fig, Apricot, Peach, French Prune, Japanese Persimmon, Apple, Pear, and all the small fruits. Mr. Cowles has 40 "experimental" acres, con- taining nearly every variety of fruit and nut trees grown on this coast for profit, besides many ornamental trees and plants. He has 31 varieties of Apples, 22 of Pears, 19 of Peaches, 9 of Apricots, 10 of Plums, and 8 of Japanese Persimmons. There are 32 varieties of vines on his place. He cultivates without irrigation. Should any irrigation be necessary, he says 40 acres could be thoroughly irrigated from a well 20 feet deep, with a 16-foot windmill. The cultivation of the Raisin Grape is very largely carried on by Mr. Cowles, and his Raisins stand higher than any other packing in California, upon the authority of Wm. T. Coleman & Co. and A. Lusk & Co., of San Francisco, and Charles A. Wetmore, Chief Viticultural Commissioner of the State. They are pronounced by the leading New York importers superior to the very choicest Dehesias of Spain. In 1876 Maj. Levi Chase began an experimental orchard on his loo-acre tract, planting the different kinds of fruit trees and grape vines, increasing his planting from year to year up to last year. His trees include the Orange (of which he has 1,200), Lemon, Lime, Loquat, Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, Apple (700 trees of many varieties), Pear (many varieties), Quince, Cherry, Plum, French and German Prunes, English Walnut and Almond. Of vines he has planted principally the White Muscat of Alexandria for Raisins, but has all the finest varieties of the imported Table Grape. With all his fruit trees he has been remarkably successful, with the exception of the Cherry, Plum and Almond. The Cherry and Plum made good growth of tree, but bore no fruit. The Almond bore very little, and he has cut the trees POINTS NEAR The; bay. 69 back and grafted them into French Prunes. The Oranges and all the citrus fruits are of superior quality. His Apples and Pears are not excelled by any product of the coast, and his Peaches cannot be beaten anywhere. His only trouble with the Pear was the tendency to overbearing, showing the great richness of the soil. His grape vines have all done remarkably well. Major Chase informs us that he has never irrigated his vineyard at any time, and has never but in one year seen any necessity for irrigation. In that year the Grapes were a good crop, but rather smaller in size than they should be. All of the irrigation that he. has ever employed on his loo-acre place has been taken from one surface well, striking the water at a depth of 16 feet. Major Chase has been packing about 600 boxes of Raisins per season. His pack will be largely increased as his vines come into bearing. With Raisins his success has been all that could be desired, his pack being of the very choicest quality. We have spoken at some length of these two places in the Cajon Valley, because of their representative character. The proprietors, being gentlemen of ample means, have prosecuted their experimental planting with thorough- ness, and the results they have attained are of the greatest value to the entire fruit and vine growing interest of our section. The Cajon for years past has been the largest wheat-producing valley of the County, this fact being due to the exceptionally fine crops obtained in good years and its nearness of access to the City. Grain farming is now, however, gradually giving way to vine and fruit growing. It is the opinion of Major Chase, backed by very sub- stantial evidence, that the occasional failures of the wheat crop in this Valley in dry years might have been entirely avoided by thorough, deep plowing and cultivation of the soil, instead of the mere surface "scratching" that has been in vogue. On his own tract planted in grain, which he has regularly plowed since 1870, he has never had a failure of crop. The climate of the Cajon is renowned for its salubrity, and its- charming surroundings and picturesque . scenery make it peculiarly desirable for residence. The El Cajon Valley Company have laid out their 3,000-acre tract with streets and avenues, and given it the name of Lakeside. Near the center of the tract is the beautiful little sheet of water known as Linda Lake. Near the lake shore, a fine hotel (spoken of in previous pages) has been erected, and Lakeside will be one of the 70 PlCTURfiSQUfi SAN DI5;G0. most attractive suburban points near San Diego. The Pacific Coast Land Bureau have laid ofif another town site near the center of the Valley, called Cajon; while still another new town called Cowleston has been started and is going ahead rapidly. With the railroad con- nection so soon to be made with the City, the Cajon will be brought within half or three-quarters of an hour's trip from town, and those who desire a delightful and quiet suburban residence may enjoy it without interference with their daily business in the City. At all of the points named in the Valley there are good hotel accommodations, and in the country around there is game in abundance for the sports- man. There are good public school facilities, and there is a Presby- terian church, with settled pastor. Wherever irrigation is required it can be supplied by the San Diego Flume Company, whose aqueduct comes into San Diego via the Cajon. Fruit lands in El Cajon are rated at $50 to $150 per acre, according to location, size of tract, etc. > ft 95 O o S m CD O O fe ?: CD > .-tj ft o o a J a o H o tn ® m o a 60 O as in ® £0 O CD a O c .3 "3 f^ CD > O a w o o o /3 (1, o o c o o o si O 6 u si o o g a O c o m to g ft o > ' 4 ■1 o ? ', a . ^.f ■■w- 4^ f-l m it' ■ P , ' 'v. hv o , '':■ ;';f o o ;'v^ ■ '. . ''^ ■ o o Is * f if A • '-ffi '/''fl 4^ w CD O 13 CD < CD b) s CD > CD ;3 CD ft ft 3 a, o O c IB sd > INTERIOR POINTS. THE EASTERN VALLEYS— JANAL AND JAMUL. EAST of the Otay, and from i8 to 20 miles from San Diego, are the valleys called Janal and Jamul. The soil is rich, and the situation is especially favorable for vine and fruit growing. In the Jamul Valley the Orange reaches perfection. Mr. J. S. Harvey, of that Valley, has beaten every Orange-growing section of California for premiums at State, County, and District exhibitions. North of these valleys and east of the National Ranch, there are a series of plains and valleys, nearly all Government land, which are occupied by bee-keepers and stock-raisers. These are the Jamacha Plains, lyce's Valley, Lyon's Valley, Lawson's Valley, Corte Madera, Cottonwood Valley, Pine Valley, Guatay Valley, Laguna, and Mata- queguat. In the Cottonwqod Valley, Mr. B. S. Sheckler has a very fine fruit orchard and farm, with an apiary. It is one of the most picturesque spots in the County. A very extensive area of fine country is comprised in this section, the most of which will be brought under cultivation. There are some small orchards, where remarkably fine Pears, Apples, and Peaches are grown, and some grain is raised. Dairy farming will be a very profitable industry in these mountain valleys. The rainfall in this section is abundant, and never fails. The mountains are thickly wooded and abound in game, and are a favorite resort of hunters and camping parties. POTRERO. The center of a large area of country near the boundary line, about 45 miles southeast of San Diego. Population of section about 400. Post-ofiice and tri-weekly mail ; 4 stores ; school-house. Princi- pal industries, farming, stock and hogs, bee-keeping; a good deal of 72 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. grain and hay is raised, and some bacon cured for market ; the honey product is considerable. Fruit, especially Apples, can be successfully grown; but little has been done in that direction as yet. There is a great deal of Government land in this section, and there will be a large settlement in a short time. Land rating $iq to $25 per acre. CAMPO. The center of the Milquatay Valley region, near the Mexican boundary, 60 miles southeast of San Diego. Population of tributary region, about 500. Store, hotel, grist-mill, blacksmith and wagon shop, machine shop, telephone station, post-office, and tri-weekly mail. The principal interests of the section are stock, cattle, horses, hogs, and bee-keeping. The honey interest is large. Grain and hay are raised, and some fruit, but the orchards are few as yet. Very superior Apples and Peaches are produced, and the soil is well adapted to fruit-growing. Experimental sugar-cane growing has given satisfac- tory results. Price of lands, $10 to $25 per acre, according to quantity, location, etc. Campo is renowned as the scene of the memorable raid of a party of Mexican banditti on the Gaskills' store in 1876. In our illustration the old store is seen in the foreground. VALLE DE LAS VIEJAS. Post-office, " Viejas." Population, about 300. About 35 miles east of San Diego, adjoining Bl Cajon. The Valley is considered one of the best grain-growing sections of the County. Bee-keeping is a prominent interest. The soil and climate are well adapted to vine and fruit growing, but development in that direction has but recently begun. Stock, horses, cattle, and hogs are among the productions. Price of lands from $10 to $50 per acre. SANTA MARIA VALLEY. Post-office "Nuevo." About 30 miles northeast of San Diego. Population, about 500. Store and blacksmith shop; two public school-houses. This is a superior farming country. At present sheep and stock raising are the principal interests ; honey production ranks next. The grain crop never fails. Twenty-two thousand dol- lars' worth of wheat was harvested from 1,500 acres in the driest year the County has ever known. Sugar-cane is planted for feed for stock. INTERIOR POINTS. 73 and is found to be the most profitable feed for cows and other stock that can be grown. Vineyards and orchards are now being planted. A tract of several thousand acres from the Santa Maria grant was purchased by capitalists last year, and a colony site laid off under the name of Ramona. Kxtensive improvements, including a building for a branch of the University of Southern California, hotel, etc., have been commenced. The water supply is abundant for all purposes. The price of land in the Santa Maria Valley ranges according to quantity and location, from $io to $75 per acre. SAN VICENTE. This Rancho lies southeast of Santa Maria, between that valley and Valle de las Viejas. Population, about 50. The principal inter- ests are stock-raising and bee-keeping. It is a fine Rancho and capa- ble of profitable development. Land is rated from $5 to $25 per acre, according to location. POWAY VALLEY. This rich agricultural valley lies about eighteen miles north of San Diego. Population, about 800. Poway is one of the most flour- ishing settlements in the County. It has as choice farming lands as can be found in any part of Southern California. It has good stores, post-ofl&ce (with tri-weekly mail) , telephone station, a fine church used by the Baptist and Methodist congregations, a Methodist parsonage house, a public hall, and school-house. Farming is carried on exten- sively for grain, hay, etc. There, are several fine orchards and vine- yards; the Muscat, and other varieties of grape, and all the fruits grow to perfection; Poway peaches are especially noted for size and flavor. Bee-keeping is profitably carried on, a choice grade of honey being produced. Fine cattle are kept, and butter-making is a paying industry. Poway may emphatically be termed a progressive settlement. Farming lands in the Valley are held at from $25 to $100 per acre, according to quantity and location. The assurance of early railroad connection has given an impetus to development throughout the Val- ley. In one of the most attractive and picturesque spots in the Valley, the colony site of Piermont has been laid off" in large lots, a hotel has been built, and improvement is actively going on. 74 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. LAS PENASQUITAS. This Ranch, adjoining Poway, on the west, and 20 miles distant from San Diego, is wholly owned by Mr. J. S. Taylor, by whom it is devoted to the raising of fine cattle. The Ranch is entirely under fence. DEL MAR. This is the name of a beautiful watering place that has been established on the ocean beach, about seven miles west of Penasqui- tas, which has been growing in popularity each season. It is situ- ated directly on the line of the California Southern Railroad, an hour's run from San Diego, and has a side-track and depot. Del Mar has been laid out for a summer seaside resort, and has a fine, well appointed hotel, cottages, bathing houses on the beach, etc. There is a post-ofi&ce with daily mail service, and telephone connection with the City. The town site is a succession of natural terraces, which have been graded, giving wide avenues, and the lots are so situated that the ocean view is unobstructed from every house. The supply of pure spring water is abundant, and the proprietor, Mr. J. S. Taylor, is preparing to pipe it to the cottages along the terraces and the hotel. He also proposes to build a new and large hotel to accommodate several hundred guests, and lay out a park with an arti- ficial lake, etc. The beach at Del Mar is one of the finest on the coast, sloping gradually, with no heavy breakers or undertow. This is not only one of the most delightful of seaside resorts, but it is backed by a large and fertile section, with a prosperous farming com- munity growing up in the vicinity. SAN DIEGUITO. The Rancho San Dieguito gives the name to a large tract of country surrounding it.- Adjoining it on the northeast is the Rancho Encinitas. Both ranchos have long been subdivided. The San Dieguito post-ofiice is distant about 20 miles west of San Diego. There is a store, stage station, etc., and daily mail service. There is a public school-house. Population, about 600. The San Dieguito settlement is the center of a very fine section of the County, which is growing rapidly in population and improvements. The soil is capable of high cultivation. The industries are diversified. Fine cattle and inte;rior points. 75 horses, sheep and hogs are raised; butter and bacon are made for the San Diego market, and are graded as "strictly first-class" in our stores; Indian corn, wheat, barley, alfalfa, evergreen millet, and potatoes are the leading farming products. It is a fine alfalfa country. Bee-keeping is also extensively carried on. The section is well adapted to vine and fruit growing. ENCINITAS. Post-ofl&ce, distant from San Diego, by C. S. R. R., 30 miles. At Bncinitas there is a railroad station, store, public school-house, etc. There will be a large development in the immediate future of the whole San Dieguito and Bncinitas region. The rating of lands from San Dieguito west to the coast ranges from f 10 to $50 per acre, according to quantity and location. BERNARDO. Distant from San Diego about 28 miles north. The center of a large area of fertile country. Population, about 700. Store, post- ofiice (with tri-weekly mail), blacksmith shop, public school-house. This section contains a number of fine farms. Productions: Grain, horses, and cattle. There are several apiaries, and a fine grade of honey is produced. This section will have rapid development in the immediate future. The soil and climate are as favorable for successful fruit and vine culture as any in the County. Lands are rated in large tracts from $10 to $25, and in small tracts from $25 to $75 per acre. SAN PASQUAL VALLEY. East of Bernardo, distant from San Diego, 30 miles. Post-of&ce at Bernardo. Population, about 500. Store, two school-houses. This is the finest alfalfa land in the County. Thoroughbred stock, cattle, horses, and hogs are leading interests. A good deal of grain and corn is grown. Prime butter and bacon are made. Vine and fruit culture is profitably carried on; there are several extensive vineyards. Bee- keeping is a paying interest. San Pasqual is one of the richest and most productive valleys in the County. Lands are held at from $25 to $50 per acre. We append to this description the following notes on alfalfa from Mr. John Judson, one of the most successful farmers and fine stock raisers of the County: 76 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. " In San Pasqual Valley we can cut from 5 to 7 good heavy crops of alfalfa hay during the season, and then pasture the ground three or four months, think portions of the San Diego, Sweetwater, and other valleys, are equally as good at the same distance from the coast. Near the coast, the weather being cooler, it does not grow so fast — they have from 3 to 5 crops per year. I have experimented on all kinds of land for ten years, and have made a success of it, and find it the most profitable crop that is raised." SAN MARCOS. Distant from San Diego, 30 miles north. Post-ofiEce, "Barham." Store, public school-house, etc. Population of vicinity, about 400. This section embraces some of the best grain land in Southern Cali- fornia; crops have never been known to fail there. The soil is also perfectly adapted to vineyards and fruit-growing. Lands in San Marcos section are rated at from $25 to $50 per acre, according to location. ESCONDIDO. This is the name of one of the finest ranches in the County, formerly known as the Wolfskill Ranch. It is a part of the San Marcos region, and embraces 13,000 acres, adapted to grain and alfalfa, vine and fruit growing. The Raisin Grape and the Olive do especially well here. The climate is remarkably fine, the location, 15 miles from the coast, giving freedom from the moisture of the sea air, and making it a beneficial place of residence for those afflicted with some forms of pulmonary disease. Farming on the Kscondido has never suffered from a season of drought, the rainfall in the winter season being nearly double that on the coast. In 1885 the Escondido was purchased by a syndicate of San Diego capitalists, who, with praiseworthy enterprise, at once set on foot important improvements. They laid off a town site, and villa tracts, and small holdings for vineyards, orchards, and farms, and immediately began the erection of a $25,000 hotel, a college building costing $75,000, a church costing $7,500, and a $10,000 school-house. All but the college building have long been finished, and that is near- ing completion. No saloons are allowed in this model colony town the deeds of conveyance carrying a clause forbidding the sale of liquors on the ground purchased. In consequence of the enterprise and energy displayed by the managers, in addition to the great natural advantages of the location, Escondido is to-day one of the most pros- perous and rapidly growing colonies in Southern California. Its salu- INTERIOR POINTS. ']'] brious climate, its nearness of access to the City, the abundance of game in the neighboring mountains and valleys, and the superior hotel accommodations^ have made it one of the most popular of our interior places of resort. A telephone line gives direct communication with the City. Work has already been commenced upon the Central Railroad, which is to run from San Diego, via El Cajon and Poway, to Escondido, and thence to a connection with the California Southern at Oceanside. The population of Escondido and vicinity is about 800, and is increasing every day. AGUA HEDIONDA. This rancho, on the coast, 40 miles west of San Diego, is the property of Robert Kelly, and is devoted to stock-raising. The entire tract is under fence. Agua Hedionda contains good vineyard land, and it is not unlikely that a portion of it, at least, will at no distant day be brought under cultivation. SAN LUIS REY VALLEY. The town of San Luis Rey, near the mouth of the valley of the San Luis Rey River, 45 miles west of San Diego, is the oldest interior settlement in the County. The name is taken from the Franciscan Mission established there in June, 1798. The population of the town and vicinity is about 600. There is a store, hotel, post- ofl&ce (with daily mail service), express of&ce, telegraph ofiice, and public school-house. Railroad station on the California Southern Railroad at Oceanside, four miles from the town. Near the town are the ancient buildings of the Mission of San Luis Rey. The church was one of the finest of all the old mission buildings, and is to-day a better preserved ruin than that of San Diego. In its palmy days San Luis Rey was the richest of the missions of Alta California, owning large flocks and herds, and famous for its hospitality. The ruins are one of the objects of interest to tourists and artists. The San Luis Rey Valley extends northward from the mouth of the San Luis Rey River to the "Palomar," or Smith's Mountain, and embraces a very large extent of country, including the Ranchos of Guajome, Buena Vista, Monserrate, Pauma, and Cuca, and the Pala section. The largest portion of the Valley is Government land, which is now almost, if not wholly, taken up. This Valley is one of the most fertile sections of Southern California. It has a thrifty farming 78 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. population, and will very soon become the most thickly settled and productive part of the County west of San Diego. The principal productions now are corn, alfalfa, grain, hay, honey, cattle and horses, hogs, bacon, butter, etc. There are a few orchards and several vine- yards. Vine and fruit growing will become leading interests in this Valley. The celebrated Santa Margarita Rancho, of over 150,000 acres (formerly the estate of the late Don Juan Forster), adjoins the San Luis Rey country on the west and north. This vast tract is wholly under fence, and is devoted to cattle raising by its present proprietor, Richard O'Neill. It is one of the finest sections in the whole south- ern country, well watered, with a large proportion of first rate fruit, vine, and farming land. There can be no doubt that, lying as it does directly in the line of every railroad coming to San Diego, its propri- etor will eventually find it more profitable to subdivide it, and throw it open to settlement and cultivation, than to hold it for its present uses. The California Southern Railroad passes through the soutliern end of the ranch, where there is a station called Ysidora. Prices of land in the San Luis Rey Valley range from $25 to $75 per acre, according to location, quantity, etc. OCEANSIDE. This is the name of a town less than two years old, on the line of the California Southern Railroad, forty miles northwest of San Diego. It is situated right on the coast, at the mouth of the San Luis Rey River. Of all the new towns that have sprung into exist- ence since the advent of the railroad, Oceanside has made the most remarkable growth. It is undoubtedly destined to be the largest and most important town in the County outside of San Diego. The Santa Ana and Los Angeles branch of the California Southern Railroad forms its junction at Oceanside, while the San Diego Central Rail- road, from San Diego via El Cajon, Poway, and Bscondido, terminates here ; and the town is also on the surveyed line of the extension of the Southern Pacific Railroad from Los Angeles. Situated thus with reference to the railroads, its relation to the interior is no less advan- tageous. The great San Luis Rey Valley, with all the adjacent fer- tile fruit and farming country, is behind it, giving assurance of a growing trade with the interior. Several San Diego merchants have established branch houses at Oceanside, and are doing a profitable INTERIOR POINTS. 79 business. A Water Company has been organized to pipe water from the upper river into the town for household purposes, and also to supply irrigation needs. Oceanside has two hotels, about fifty places of business, a good newspaper and printing office, two public school- houses, one of them a very large, handsome building, church, etc. The California Southern Railroad has a depot here, and there is an express and telegraph office. A brick bank building is now going up, and a wharf is to be built for lumber and coasting business. A new hotel near the beach, to cost from $35,000 to $40,000, is approaching completion. The beach at Oceanside is smooth and hard, extending along the coast for several miles, and is a very popular bathing resort. Bathing-houses and summer cottages have been erected all along the beach front. The Oceanside people expect to make their beach "the Long Branch of Southern California." The population of Oceanside and vicinity is about 1,000, and is growing in numbers very fast. APEX. Post-office for the section of country between Bear Valley and the Escondido; distance from San Diego, about 40 miles north. Government lands about all taken up. There are a number of farms, vineyards, orchards, and apiaries in this section. MOOSA. Post-office for the section east of Mt. Fairview and north of Apex P. O. Distance from San Diego about 45 miles north. Government land settled up. Bee-keeping, farming, vine and fruit, growing. MT. FAIRVIEW. A flourishing settlement in the upper San Luis Rey Valley, about 45 miles north of San Diego. Population about 250. Store, post-office (" Osgood"), tri-weekly mail. This is a good farming country, and especially well adapted to vine growing and fruit culture. Hogs are profitable and some bacon is made. There are a number of apiaries, and the honey produced is of very fine quality. The ostrich farm of B. J. Johnson & Co. is located here, and is proving very successful. Lands in this vicinity are rated at $15 to $50 per acre. 8o PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. BEAR VALLEY. Post-office, " Valley Center." Avery productive section, about 40 miles north of San Diego. Population about 1,000. Store, black- smith shop, school-house, brick church. Productions: Fine stock, hogs, bacon and grain; some honey is also made. The rainfall in this Valley is more than three times as great as on the coast, and a crop failure has never been known there. The Bear Valley section embraces as choice farming land as can be found on the Pacific Coast. The district is about 10 miles long by 8 miles wide, and there are at present some 15,000 acres under cultivation. Fruits of all kinds do well here. The construction of the San Diego Central Railroad will give the Bear Valley farmers easy access to market. East of Bear Valley is situated the fine Guejito Ranch, of 13,000 acres, recently purchased by San Diego capitalists. Lands in the Bear Valley section can be bought at from $15 to $50 per acre, according to quantity, location, etc. PALA. The location of one of the old auxiliary missions, in the upper San Luis Rey Valley, about 50 miles north of San Diego. Catholic services are still held in the old mission church, and the Olive trees planted by the Fathers 80 years ago yield good crops. Pala is the center of a very rich section. It has a post-ofiice (with tri-weekly mail) , store, grist mill, and public school-house. Population, about 600. Mail route to Temecula, 12 miles distant, where connection is made with the California Southern Railroad. This section has a very large area of the finest vine and fruit lands in Southern California. In the Pala district is located the most extensive orchard in the County, that of Maj. Lee H. Utt, at Agua Tibia, recently sold to a company of Eastern capitalists, who have also purchased other lands in the vicinity for colony purposes. The vineyards of Agua Tibia contain all the finest varieties of the Grape, while the orchards produce in large quantity Oranges, Lemons, Figs, and other sub-tropical fruits, as well as Peaches, Apricots, Apples, Pears, Plums, Almonds, English Walnuts — in fact, every kind of fruit in perfection. The climate and soil there are especially adapted to the production of the Orange in its choicest grade. Frost has never been known. It is the opinion of experts that the Agua Tibia Orange is the finest grown INTERIOR POINTS. 8l in Southern California. Major Utt has been the largest shipper of Oranges and Lemons in the County. He has also sent to market every season a large crop of English Walnuts and Almonds, being the only shipper as yet of these nuts, although others are beginning to grow them. The name of the estate — "Agua Tibia" — signifies " tepid water," and is derived from a celebrated warm sulphur spring near the farm-house. There are extensive apiaries in the Pala section, and the finest grade of honey is largely produced. Alfalfa is very successfully grown, and there is a good deal of fine stock in the country. The rainfall at Pala is abundant, and the water supply is unfailing. Lands in the Pala section are quoted at from $io to $75 per acre, according to location, quantity, etc. PAUMA. In the upper San Luis Rey Valley, above Pala. One of the finest and best watered ranchos in the County, containing about 13,000 acres. The Pauma Creek, which flows into the San Luis Rey River, is a large and constant stream. An Indian village is located on the banks of this stream, whose waters they use for irrigating purposes. Pauma is the property of the Catholic Bishop of Southern California. It has been stated that this rancho is shortly to be placed in the market. The land is adapted to the growth of vines and fruit trees in the highest perfection. TEMECULA. Railroad station on the line of the California Southern Railroad, 75 miles north of San Diego. Two hotels, express and telegraph ofi&ce, post-ofiice (with daily mail), two stores, blacksmith and wagon- shop, public school-house. Population about 600, Temecula is the center of a very large and important section of the county. The chief productions at present are wool, grain and hay, cattle, sheep^ etc. The soil is adapted to a diversified agriculture, and vine and fruit culture will be largely undertaken as settlement progresses. Large tracts have recently been subdivided by organized companies ; a town site has been laid out and extensive improvements are in pro- gress. Water is obtained at from 4 to 12 feet, and it is claimed that little or no irrigation is required for farming lands, the average annual amount of rainfall being over 18 inches. There are valuable mineral springs on this ranch. Prices of land range from $25 to $75 per acre. 82 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. PAUBA. ' This rancho, of nearly 27,000 acres, adjoins the Temecula on the west. It has recently been purchased, together with a large portion of the Temecula, by an association of Nevada capitalists, who are sub- dividing it into small tracts for settlement. This section always pro- duces good grass and good crops of wheat and barley. MURRIETA Is one of the most prosperous of the colony towns of San Diego County. The tract, embracing about 14,500 acres, was purchased from the Temecula grant by a company of California and Nevada ■ capitalists, under the name of the Temecula Land and Water Com- pany, a little over two years ago. The California Southern Railroad runs directly through it, and has a station there. The town is 75 miles distant from San Diego, and 90 miles from Los Angeles, being very nearly midway between the two cities. It is twenty miles inland from the coast, with the high wall of the Santa Rosa range of moun- tains, between, breaking off the ocean wind. The altitude is 1,090 feet above the sea. Young as the town is, it has a first-rate hotel, -Cvell-furnished, with good table and excellent service; railroad station, express and telegraph office, good stores, daily mail service, a church arid public school-house, and about fifty residences. A weekly paper is published. The town is growing very fast. The soil is adapted to fruit and vine growing and to diversified agriculture. The rainfall has hitherto been -s-ufi&cient for crops; but if irrigation should be re- quired there are ample sources of supply, and there is, besides, no doubt that artesian water can be obtained all over the tract, a flow having already been obtained at the depth of 152 feet. Within less than.half-an-hour's drive from the hotel there are valuable hot sulphur springs, the temperature of which ranges from 120° to 160°. A fine bathing establishment has been erected at these springs, and further extensive improvements are there projected. Society in Murrieta is excellent, and composed largely of recent comers from the Eastei^i States. The population of the town and neighborhood is about 800, and daily increasing. The price of lands is from $10 to $50 per acre, according to quantity and location, and of town lots from $35 to $125. INTERIOR POINTS. 83 FALL BROOK. On the "western slope of the Coast range of mountains, 15 miles from the coast and 60 miles from San Diego, on the line of the Cali- fornia Southern Railroad. Population, about 600. Railroad station, post-o£&ce (with daily mail), 3 stores, blacksmith and wagon-shop, school-house, church building of the M. E. South, also Baptist Society and Sunday-school. One of the most flourishing settlements of the County. The soil is remarkably adapted to vine and fruit culture, no irrigation being required; frost is unknown, and the climate is unexcelled ; water is obtained at from 4 to 30 feet. Wheat and barley are unfailing crops ; corn, beans, and potatoes do well ; the vine and all the citrus and deciduous fruits are very successfully grown. The orange orchard and vineyard of Mr. John Mitchell, in Fall Brook, have been very profitable; he has one of the finest places in that section of the County. Bee-keeping is profitably carried on. The honey of Fall Brook is rated as the choicest in quality produced in all Southern California. Lands are quoted at from $25 to $75 per acre. The California Southern, after leaving Fall Brook, enters the Temecula Canon, where some of the most skillful railway engineering in the country has been accomplished. The scenery in this Canon is highly picturesque. It is fourteen miles from the entrance, near Fall Brook, to the exit at Temecula. SANTA ROSA. This very extensive section takes its name from the Rancho Santa Rosa, a Mexican grant of 48,000 acres, which comprises about one-third of the whole region. It lies north of the Rancho Santa Margarita, and is bounded on the west by Ivos Angeles County. The Santa Rosa range of mountains runs through it from northwest tp southeast. The country is very much broken by mountains, but there are many choice spots in its small valleys. DeLuz is the name of a settlement in one of the valleys, about 60 miles northwest of San Diego, and 10 miles from the California Southern Railroad. It. has a post-oflEce and is a voting precinct. There is a celebrated mineral spring near DeLuz which is much resorted to by camping parties in the summer months. §4 PIC'I'URHSQUE SAN DIEGO. ELSINORE. This is the name of the colony started on the Laguna Rancho a little over three years ago. It is on the line of the California Southern Railroad, 875^ miles from San Diego, 20 miles south of Riverside, 37 miles south of San Bernardino, and 90 miles east of Los Angeles. The tract comprises about 10,000 acres around the "laguna," or lake, from which the rancho took its name. A flourishing town has been built here, at which there is a railroad station, post-ofiice (with daily mail service), express and telegraph offices, hotels, stores, lumber yards, livery stables, etc. There are several brick buildings. The population of the town and vicinity is about 1,000. Blsinore is one of the most rapidly growing and successful colonies of Southern California. Its advantages of soil, climate, water, and cheapness of land have attracted the best class of settlers, forming a progressive community. The exhibit made by Elsinore at the County Fair in October, 1885, sufl&ciently showed the capacity and productiveness of the soil in fruit and vegetable growing. Clay of the finest quality for the manufacture of pottery-ware has been developed here, and a pottery has been established, whose wares find a ready market. There is a coal mine, an eight-foot vein, which yields coal which, though not of the best quality, is still very good fuel, and shows better and better quality as the mine is developed. It is used in the blacksmith shops and furnaces with satisfactory results. The hot mineral springs and the lake are features which enhance the value of the place as a pleasant resort for health and pleasure seekers, and it is the intention of the managers of the colony lands to improve these advantages. Lands are quoted at from $25 to $75 per acre. SAN JACINTO. The center of the extensive Valley of the same name, which em- braces an area of 30 miles east and west by 15 miles wide. The town is at present the second in size and business importance in the County, having a population of about 1,500 in the town and vicinity, and is growing rapidly. It has several brick blocks, a bank, a $5,000 brick school-house, brick church, and a large brick hotel, and a to-vvn hall. A number of general stores, shops, etc., are doing a brisk and thriving business. There are brick-yards, lime kilns, lumber mills, etc., all kept busy in supplying building material. There is daily INTERIOR POINTS. 85 mail service by stage to Pinacate station, on the California Southern Railroad, 18 miles distant. The San Jacinto Valley includes the settlements of San Jacinto, Rock House, Perris (a railroad station on the line of the California Southern) , and Pinacate. At San Jacinto the soil is mostly a sandy loam, easily tilled. The larger part of it is well adapted to vines. It is surrounded on three sides by lofty mountains, the canons of which afford an abundant supply of fuel, and several irrigating streams. The average altitude of the Valley is about 1,400 feet above the sea level. There are over 40 flowing artesian wells in the Valley. San Jacinto and Tocmitch Mountains, to the east, have forests of pine, hemlock, sugar-pine, and tamarack, in which a steam saw-mill is kept busy the year round sawing lumber. Nearly every kind of fruit does well in the Valley, the exceptions being the tender tropical fruits, for which the winters are too cold. Mineral springs abound, with a bath- house at one of them. Lands in the San Jacinto Valley range in price from $10 to $100 per acre, according to location, quantity, etc. Good land can be had for an average of $15 per acre. ROCK HOUSE. Rock House (or Pleasant Valley) is 10 miles southwest of San Jacinto and 10 miles from the C. S. R. R. It has a post-office (with daily mail) , store, and two blacksmith shops ; a new school-house has just been built. Population, about 600. The soil is the best in the Valley ; barley, wheat, corn, and fruit trees form the principal growth. No irrigation is needed. Four miles from Rock House an artesian well is being bored. PINACATE. Pinacate, on the line of the C. S. R. R., 10 miles west of Rock House, is rapidly settling up. It is a railway station, with post-office, daily mail, two stores, blacksmith and wagon-shop, livery stable, and photograph gallery. There is a good public school, and a new school- house, to cost $1,800, has recently been erected. Population about 400. PERRIS. A new town, named in compliment to the chief engineer of the California Southern. It is a railway station, distant from the town of San Jacinto about 15 miles. There is a hotel, stores, etc., post-office and daily mail service, school-house, etc., etc. The population of the town and neighborhood is about 200. 86 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. BALLENA. We now turn to the mountain region northeast of San Diego. The Ballena is a thriving agricultural settlement about 35 miles northeast of San Diego. Sawday's store is the central point. There is a post-office (with tri-weekly mail service) and a public-school house. The population of the section is about 400. There is no better farm- ing land in San Diego County. Since the first settlement crops have never been known to fail, the rainfall being always sufl&cient. The principal interests are grain-growing, cattle-raising, and bee-keeping. Fruits and vines also do well. lyand prices are given at from $15 to $50 per acre. SANTA ISABEL. This is the name of one of the finest and best watered ranchos of the County, containing nearly 18,000 acres. It lies northeast of Ballena, and is distant about 45 miles from San Diego. This ranch was lately sold to some Sonoma County farmers, Brackett & Co., who have stocked it with fine young cattle, and are carrying on an exten- sive dairy business, making a great deal of " gilt-edged" butter, which finds a ready market. There are large portions of this ranch not needed in the dairy farming enterprise, but peculiarly adapted to fruit growing, which are likely at no distant day to be offered in suitable holdings for orchards. The country is very beautiful, the view over the broad valley from the Julian grade being especially fine. A living stream of some volume, the Santa Isabel Creek, flows through the ranch all the year. On the banks of this stream an Indian village has existed for more than a century. They have a Catholic chapel, and the Government maintains a school among them. MESA GRANDE. Passing through the Santa Isabel from the town of Julian (to be presently described) we come by a steady ascent to the section known as the Mesa Grande, a very extensive range of mountain country, with much level land on the top, whence its name. This has been found to be a remarkably fine fruit-growing section, although, until recently, the principal interests were cattle and hog raising and bee keeping. A good deal of choice butter, bacon, and lard are made on the Mesa, finding sale at Julian and in the surrounding country. INTERIOR POINTS. 87 But such fruits as the Apple, Pear, Cherry, Plum, Peach, and Apricot come to high perfection, and the Grape is a success. J. B. Gedney has the finest orchard on the Mesa, and his fruits, especially his Cherries, are as choice as can be found anywhere, east or west. He finds a ready market for all that his orchard and vineyard produces. There are now a number of fruit farms in this section, and the num- ber is increasing. The rainfall on Mesa Grande is the heaviest in the County, in some seasons going above 66 inches; at Gedney's orchard, where the elevation is 3,900 feet, some of the land has to be drained of the superabundant moisture. The Mesa Grande section is also noted as the location of a very rich gold quartz mine, the Shenandoah, which has yielded large returns. The mine has not been recently worked, owing to some legal complications, but it is, too valuable a property to lie idle, and operations will be resumed upon it at no distant day. THE JULIAN COUNTRY. Julian, the largest settlement in the mountain region proper of San Diego County, takes its name from an early settler there, named M. S. Julian. In February, 1870, gold quartz mines were discovered near his 160-acre holding of Government land. There was a rush of prospectors to the neighborhood ; a mining district was organized, for which Julian was chosen Recorder, and his name was given to the new district. Other discoveries followed; several mines were opened; quartz-crushing mills were erected ; a large population flocked in ; and a town site was laid out in blocks and lots, which was soon pretty well covered over with buildings. For several years a great deal of gold was taken out, and the community was prosperous. The discovery of new and very rich mines in the San Felipe Canon, about three miles east of Julian, was followed by the organization of another min- ■ ing district, called Banner, and quite a large settlement sprang up there, but its main business was done in Julian, as in fact it still is. Very expensive machinery was carried into the new district, and it, too, poured a large amount of treasure annually into the golden stream. On the southeast, at the base of the Cuyamaca mountains, about 8 miles distant from Julian, another and very rich mine was discovered at about the same time. It was named the Stonewall, and a third mining district, called the Stonewall district, was formed. This mine, after yielding large returns, lay unworked for several 88 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. years. It was taken hold of by a company about three years ago, who in turn recently sold it to Lieut.-Gov. R. W. Waterman, a very successful miner of San Bernardino County. He is now working it in a thorough manner, and is making it pay largely. Farming in all this section, which was the object of the original settlers, was, with a few exceptions, abandoned in the search for gold. James Madison started his orchard and farm before the mining excite- ment, and kept at it. A few others stuck to their farms, and carried on stock raising, supplying the miners with meat, vegetables, and fruit. But mining was the chief pursuit of the people. By and by, however, there came a time when the mining interest, in the phrase of the country, "petered out." But three or four mines of any con- sequence remained. The population dwindled away, and the once busy, active town of Julian became as dull and spiritless as the old mining towns of Northern California when their placers were worked out. But there remained in the Julian country some hundreds of men who had become attached to their mountain homes, and these began to substitute the plow for the miner's pick. The success of Madison and a few others in fruit growing and farming, and the profit found in stock raising, led the majority of the remaining population to engage in the same pursuits. They found that it paid better than mining. Filings on Government land grew more numerous every year. Immigration began once more to turn toward the Julian coun- try, and this time it was of the staying kind. Orchards and farms are now to be found on all the slopes and in all the little valleys in this section of the County, and their number is steadily increasing. Mining is still carried on in three or four mines, but the principal interests to-day are fruit and grain growing, stock raising, and bee keeping. Julian is distant from San Diego, in an air line, 43 ^ miles, and by the stage road 60 miles. Its elevation is a little over 4,000 feet. There is a steady ascent after leaving the mesa of El Cajon. There are two roads by which it may be reached: one by way of the Cajon Valley, Santa Maria, and Santa Isabel, which is the mail and stage route, the other following the valley of the San Diego River after leaving the Cajon, and going via the Eagle Peak grade and Stonewall District. The latter road is 10 miles the shortest, but it is at present so difi&cult that better time can be made on the longer road by Santa Isabel. The scenery, however, on the whole line of the INTERIOR POINTS. 89 Stonewall road, as it is called, after leaving the Cajon valley, is incom- parably the finest. Several of our views will attest the picturesque beauty of the country through which it passes. The Julian country, between Banner and the Santa Isabel, is, in fact, a plateau, the long sweeps of rolling hills gliding one into the other, by easy grades. On the east, the descent into the San Felipe Canon to the Banner District, near its mouth, is abrupt and steep, falling nearly 1,000 feet in three miles of winding road. This Canon debouches into the San Felipe Valley, the best portion of which is covered by the San Felipe Rancho, embracing some five or six thou- sand acres of good farming land. This rancho is on the very edge of the Colorado desert. It is now leased as a cattle ranch. The Volcan Mountain forms the east wall of the Canon, and, with an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet, is a prominent landmark. Its sides were once thickly covered with lofty pines, but this timber, as well as that on the Julian side, has been greatly thinned out to supply the quartz mills with fuel. The summit of the Volcan yet shows a great deal of timber. There is considerable level land on the mountain top, and a great many cattle and hogs are raised there. In the Stonewall District, on the Cuyamaca Mountain, there are extensive forests of pine and oak; but here, too, the furnaces of the quartz mills have devoured much of the timber. The three peaks of the Cuyamaca form one of the most prominent landmarks in the County. The highest peak rises to an altitude of 6,750 feet. When white with snow in winter the Mountain presents a striking appearance as viewed from San Diego. The Julian country has many of the characteristics of an Eastern climate, there being snows (sometimes quite heavy) in winter, and a inuch greater rainfall than in the lower country. The water supply is everywhere abundant. The San Felipe Creek is a large and con- stant stream, whose power was utilized in past years by some of the quartz mills. The whole country abounds in living springs and small streams. Southward, at the base of the Cuyamacas, the San Diego River takes its rise, four large creeks flowing into the main stream. In front of the Stonewall mine, at an elevation of 5,350 feet, a large laguna has always existed. The San Diego Flume Company have dammed its outlet, and it. is now a lake nearly three miles long, with an average width of one mile. go PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. Notwithstanding the marked difference in climate here, the Vine has been cultivated with great success. The Apples and Pears grown in this mountain section are the richest in flavor and all the qualities of choice fruit that we have seen in any part of the State. Plums, Cherries, Peaches, etc., are produced in perfection. Hamilton, Madison, Gunn, Bailey Bros., Tally, Duffy, and Morris are among the principal fruit growers. Chester Gunn has the largest Apple and Pear orchard in the County. Good public schools are maintained at Julian, Banner, and Spen- cer Valley, 3 miles from Julian. Banner has the finest school-house, finished throughout in redwood; that at Spencer Valley is also a neat building. Both are surrounded by picturesque groves of shady oaks. Julian has a post-office with tri-weekly mail, two well stocked stores, a public hall, blacksmith and wagon shops, etc. The town and section have telephone communication with San Diego by way of the Stonewall mine, Julian being directly connected with Banner by telephone. The population of the Julian country is between 2,500 and 3,000, including the several points named. There is still good Government land in these mountains, although it is being rapidly taken up. Land other than Government is rated at from $10 to $50 per acre, according to situation, quantity, etc. There are indications that this rich and important section of our back country will very soon be brought into railroad connection with San Diego. When this is accomplished, no part of our great interior will advance more rapidly. WARNER'S RANCH. Descending from the Julian plateau into the San Felipe Canon, and turning westward through the San Felipe Valley, a drive of about 16 miles brings us to Warner's Ranch. This extensive tract takes its name from Col. J. J. Warner, now of Los Angeles, who owned it before the change of flags (as long ago, we believe, as 1836). It em- braces the two Mexican grants of San Jose del Valle, and Valle de San Jose, 26,600 acres in all. It has been owned for several years past by ex-Governor John G. Downey, of Los Angeles. The voting precinct of this extensive valley is called Agua Caliente, the name of the celebrated hot sulphur springs on the Rancho, distant about 60 miles northeast from San Diego. The remarkable remedial virtues of these springs were known to the Indians as far back as their tradi- tions go, and they have been resorted to ever since the settlement of INTE^RIOR POINTS. 91 the country. The waters are peculiarly beneficial in rheumatic affec- tions of the chronic character, in certain forms of kidney disease, and in some dyspeptic cases. They certainly possess powerful alterative qualities. The springs rise along the edge of a little stream of pure, cold water, which has its source in springs in the Agua Caliente Mountains. The temperature varies at the different points where the water bubbles up, but the hottest of the springs is from 120° to 124°, the water being hotter in the early morning than in the after- noon and evening. Patients use the water both for drinking and bathing. It is very soft, and thoroughly cleanses the skin, making a bath in it a luxury. Medical gentlemen who have visited Agua Cali- ente, and have investigated the effect of the waters in special cases, consider these springs to possess peculiar qualities, and regard them as among the most valuable in existence. The hot springs of Agua Caliente are in the possession of a community of Mission Indians, whose village has been located there from time immemorial. They have erected rude, but cleanly kept, bath-houses along the stream, and conduct the hot water from the springs to the tubs by small wooden flumes. To parties desiring to remain some time at the springs, they furnish small adobe houses. Agua Caliente is a favorite resort for summer camping parties, not only on account of the springs, but because of the picturesque mountain scenery. The Gov- ernment has maintained a school here for the Indian children for sev- eral years, which has been under the charge of Miss Flora Golsh, as teacher, from the beginning. This highly educated and accomplished lady has done wonders with her dusky pupils, and it is to be regretted that the space and scope within which this book must be confined will not permit a particular account of her school. Warner's Ranch is well watered, having numerous ponds (lagunas), large and small, with springs in the mountains and small streams flowing through the valley. Snow falls occasionally in winter, the altitude of the valley being about 3,000 feet. There is an abundance of good farm- ing land; but very little farming is done, the rancho being almost exclusively devoted to cattle and sheep raising. The annual wool clip of Warner's Ranch is the largest of any single section of the County. At the eastern outlet of the valley is the pass through the mountains to the Colorado desert known as "Warner's Pass," and mentioned in the reports of several transcontinental railway surveys as a feasible pass through which an overland railroad can enter Cali- 92 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. fornia. It is quite probable that it will be occupied for that pufpose in the not distant future. The population of the township of Agua Caliente is about loo. OAK GROVE. Continuing west from Warner's Ranch for 15 miles, we reach Oak Grove, where there is a stage station on the Temecula and Julian mail route. The post-office was recently discontinued, as also at Warner's, much to the inconvenience of the people, who, if few in number, are still entitled to postal facilities. Between Temecula and Banner, a stretch of 75 miles, there is now no post-office. Oak Grove is a voting precinct of the County, and the population of the neighbor- hood is about 50. It is all Government land, occupied under the homestead and preemption laws, and is a fine farming and stock raising country. Six miles west of Oak Grove we come to the voting precinct named Aguanga, in which section there is a population of perhaps 50. There are some good farming locations in the neighborhood, and with proper transportation facilities both Oak Grove and Aguanga would become producing sections of considerable importance. The present interests are cattle, sheep, and hog raising. THE PALOMAR. Mention of this extensive mountain region might have been, perhaps, more properly made in the notes on the San lyuis Rey Valley, forming, as it does, the eastern wall of the upper valley. It is one of the most conspicuous mountain ranges in the County, being about twenty miles in length and extending from the Temecula Valley to Warner's Ranch. It rises to an altitude of 5,800 feet above sea level. The trend of the Palomar is northwest and southeast. At its southeastern end the San Luis Rey River fl!ows from its sources on Warner's Ranch and the Santa Isabel through a narrow gorge between its base and that of the northern end of the Mesa Grande, the river being swelled as it flows toward the sea by the creeks and numerous small streams that run into it from the western slope of the mountain. The mail route from Temecula to Julian passes around the Palomar on the northeastern side, via Aguanga, Oak Grove, Warner's Ranch, the San Felipe Valley, and, entering the San Felipe Canon at the base of the Volcan Mountain, reaches INTERIOR POINTS. 93 Banner, and thence climbs up to the Julian plateau. Palomar is a Spanish name, signifying a dove-cot, and the name was given be- cause of the great flocks of wild pigeons formerly found in this range. These birds are still seen on and near its summit, but they are fast diminishing in numbfers. The summit of the Palo- mar has much level farming land; it abounds in living springs of pure, cold water and small streams. There is a great deal of tim- ber on the top and sides of the mountain, comprising cedar, pine, and oak; beautiful groves, with large openings of rich meadow land, are seen all along the summit. Numerous small and fertile valleys, all well watered, are found along the sides, chiefly on the western slope, descending to the San I/uis Rey River. While the summit is subject to heavy snowfalls in the winter, there is a belt along the western slope in which frost is almost unknown; this includes the Agua Tibia, and the Pauma and Cuca ranchos, and this belt is peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of the citrus fruits, the vine, and the olive, as well as nearly all of the deciduous fruits and vegetables. The Oranges of Agua Tibia are excelled by none. There are a good many farms on the summit of the Palomar, and the number is increasing. Cattle and hog raising are leading interests, the rich pasturage and abundance of mast favoring the settler. The name of the post-office and voting precinct is "Smith's Mountain," which is popularly applied to the whole range. It was so called because a rancher on the mountain, named Smith, was murdered in his cabin there several years ago. The Palomar region is mostly Government land, settled under the homestead and preemption laws. GENERAL INFORMATION. THE cost of living in San Diego County differs but little from prices ruling in tlie older States. Hardware, groceries, dry goods, and farming implements can be bought here at a very slight advance on Kasterri rates, the only difference being the freight charges. Meats, fruits, and vegetables are rather cheaper than in Eastern markets. The cost of building substantial, comfortable houses is about as reasonable here as in the East. A nice, five-room cottage can be built for $800, and larger houses at from $175 to $250 per room. From $2,000 to $3,000 will build a handsome lo-room or 12- room residence. Of course, one can spend as little or as much as one pleases in finishing, decoration, etc. House rents are at the rate of from $3 to $5 per room, according to style of house, location, etc. In the City of San Diego rents have been rather high as compared with Eastern rates; but this is due to the astonishingly rapid influx of population, and the inability to build fast enough to meet the call for house-room. This is the case in every live, rapidly growing place; high rents will prevail until the supply begins to equal the demand. No more striking evidence could be given of the substantial growth of San Diego than that afforded by the statistics of the lumber trade of the last three years. During 1885 the total lumber importation was 15,000,000 feet; in 1886 the receipts were 38,600,000 feet; and during the present year, from January i to September i (eight months) , the receipts have reached 84,000,000 feet, the importation in the month of August alone being more than that of the entire year 1885. Estimates, based upon orders for buildings now under con- struction, and to be built, show that the total importation of 1887 will be more than 135,000,000 feet. These figures show that there is no lack of energy in the effort to build up to the requirements of our daily increasing community. The business, industrial, and invest- 96 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. ment opportunities in a live city like San Diego much, more than out- weigh the temporary expense of a brief period of high rents. A steady, industrious mechanic, or competent, wide-awake business man, will soon be able to build his own home, — as such men are doing here every day. The best hotels give cheaper rates than the second- rate hotels of Eastern cities ; and excellent restaurants serve meals at fifty per cent, less than Eastern city restaurants of the same class. The farmer and oUt-door workman have one especial advantage in San Diego County: We have no winter, as winter is known in the East ; no months of enforced cessation of work ; no housing of stock ; no big fuel bill to pay. In the County, farming operations go on the year round; in the City, the carpenter and bricklayer have few idle days, and business suffers no interruption. The climate of San Diego County gives its people an immense advantage over the dwellers in severe winter climates. The advantage is real and substantial, and may be reckoned in dollars and cents. Wages for ordinary day laborers range from $1.50 to $2.50 per day; harvest hands (with board), $25 to $30 per month; skilled workmen, $3 to $5 per day; clerks, accountants, and salesmen, from $50 to $150 per month, according to ability and experience. Here, as everywhere, the best men get the best pay. Any man, with good health, good habits, and the disposition to work, will succeed in San Diego County, and there are ten opportunities for such a man here to one in the crowded com- munities of the East. HOW TO COME TO SAN DIEGO. The chief starting points from the East to San Diego are Chicago, St. Louis, and Kansas City. The fares from these different starting points cannot be definitely stated, as they vary at different times, but are approximately as follows: From Chicago— First-class, unlimited, $72.50; limited, $62.50; second and third classes, $47.50. From St. Louis— First-class, unlimited, $67.50; limited, $57-5°; second and third classes, $42.50. From Kansas City — First-class, un- limited, $60; limited, $50; second and third classes, $35. The principal routes are given below : No. I. The most direct route in miles and hours is the " Santa Fe Route." From Chicago, via the Chicago, Santa Fe & California Railway, to Kansas City, Mo,; by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad from Kansas City to Albu- querque, N. M.; by the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad from Albuquerque to Bar- stow, Cal.; and by the California Southern Railroad from Barstow to San Diego. GENERAL INFORMATION. 97 From St. Louis, via the St. Louis, Kansas City & Colorado Railroad, to Kansas City, and thence by above named roads to San Diego. From Kansas City, Mo., Atchison, Ks., or Leavenworth, Ks., via above named roads, to San Diego. Pull- man palace sleeping cars are attached to all trains on the " Santa Fe Route," and run through to Southern California without change. The Pullman rates are: From Chicago to San Diego, berth, $16.50; section, %-i,i. From St. Louis, berth, $15.50; section, $31. From Kansas City, berth, $13.50; section, $27. Tourist -sleeping cars, for the use of which no charge is made, are also run through on all trains via this route. These cars are arranged with special reference to fam- ilies moving to California. No bedding is provided, as passengers usually prefer to furnish their own blankets, etc.; new, clean mattresses, made to fit the berths, may be obtained of the Company's agents at low prices, varying according to the quality; wooden, partitions separate the berths, and curtains ready to hang may be purchased of the Company's agents for 50 cents. These cars are pro- vided with closets and wash-basins, are "well lighted and ventilated, and liberally supplied with water and fuel. Families preferring to carry their own provisions may make tea and coffee on the stoves, which are arranged for this purpose, during the cooler months. No. 2. By the Santa Fe Route to Deming, and by the Southern Pacific Railroad, via Tucson and Yuma, Ariz., to Colton, Cal., and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. No. 3. By the Texas Pacific Railroad through Texas, via Fort Worth, to El Paso; by the Southern Pacific Railroad to Colton; and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. (These three routes escape the winter snow blockades of northern lines.) No. 4. By the Union Pacific Railroad to Ogden; by the Central Pacific Railroad to Sacramento or San Francisco; by the Southern Pacific Railroad, via Los Angeles, to Colton; and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. No. 5. By the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad to Denver; by the Denver & Rio Grande to Ogden; by the Central Pacific and Southern Pacific Railroads to Colton; and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. No. 6. By the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs Railroad to Council Bluffs; by the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad to Denver; by the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to Ogden; by the Central Pacific and Southern Pacific Railroads to Colton; and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. No. 7. By the Missouri Pacific Railroad to Omaha; by the Union Pacific Railroad to Ogden; by the Central Pacific and Southern Pacific Railroads to Colton; and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. No. 8. By the Missouri Pacific Railroad to Omaha; by the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad to Denver; by the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to Ogden; by the Central and Southern Pacific Railroads to Colton; and by the California Southern Railroad to San Diego. No. 9. The traveler who has reached San Francisco or Los Angeles by any of the last four routes may taper off his journey pleasantly by a sea trip on one of the fine steamships of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company, which arrive at and sail from San Diego every three days. The time from San Francisco is three 98 PICTURESQUE SAN DIEGO. days; distance 500 miles. From Los Angeles an hour's railway ride takes the tourist to the coast at San Pedro, whence the steamship runs to San Diego in from six to eight hours; distance 90 miles. These vessels sail in sight of land the entire trip; the sea is nearly always smooth, and the voyage, to those who enjoy the water, is really a delightful excursion. The fare from San Francisco is $15 cabin and $10 steerage, including meals; from San Pedro, $5 cabin and $3 steerage. Illustrations by H. Friend, of American,Photogravure Co., Jas. C. Young, Pres't, Room 27, Tribune Building, Chicago. iHMSSl^ ^ "pw*!!??*"""' « V '., sr^ i-V<. •- - ^ .'* :-■■■ Sv •»i.Vi-. . ■?> ■••'■il,; >%^;i- ^ ; "