F // k CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY PROM Date Due f$^ — ? "NOV" 2002 Cornell University Ubrary F 89N5 T94 1800-1850: a WPerr^^^^^ 3 1924 028 840 226 olin Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028840226 NEWPORT, R, L J800-J850. /\-7iS5i^ NEWPORT, I800-I850. A paper read before the Unity Club, Newportj R. I., by Henry E. Turner, M. D., March 23, 1897. {Rep-iHted from the Newport Daily News of March 24th and zjth, i8gy.) Pursuant, to the very polite and flatter- ing invitation of your committee, it be- comes my province to address you on the period ill the history of our ancitot and interesting city, commencing with the close of the eighteenth century, and an- ticipating by four years, the advent of the nineteenth. Reasoning from analogy, we are justi- fied in believing that the progress in the arts in the succeeding centennial cycle will be evefl greater than that which has distinguished the era in which most of our lives have, so far, been passed, and many of the- less mature in this audience may liv* tb witness revolutionary processes in modes of lifij and habits of thought more st\ipendous than those which have been evolved during the experience of the gene- ration of men to which I personally be- long. If, dwelling on those wonderful develop- ments' of resources which, by the blessing of God, have been i^edUced to practical ap- plication during the period of my individ- ual existence, I atn induced to make too frequent allusion to the first person singu- lar, I- desire to ask pardon in advance, and to disclaim any pretence to active partici- pation in the remarkable concatenation of events, which it will be my privilege to dis- cuss, and to avoid all appearance ot ego- tism; as far as possible, in Speaking of what naay have passed under my per- sonal observation. Having been born in Warwick, within a half mile of the Kent county court house, in the borough ot East Greenwich, and having passed the first twelve years of my- life In that most delightful locality, and' having become a resident of this equally charming island in April, 1828, my famil- iarity with' Newport does not commence until that time: although, having relatives here, I can recollect distinctly several visits here, of two or three days each, one of which was as early as 1820 when I was four years old; so that, Newport had, even so early as that, a strong hold on my imagination and affections. T take leave to dwell on this time of my childhood, as a resident of Bast Greenwich and its vicinity, though it may seem some- what apart from the field assigned me, hoping to be excused for such apparent divarication, on the plea that It affords a "Point d'Appul," from which a' field glass can be directed, with good effect, on the great changes, subsequently effected, in the panorama, both physical and moral, then presented to my youthful vision. We lived at that time on the hill, west from the village, high enough to overlook the habitations, and the whole slope of the land towards the bay, from Providence to Point Judith, just four and a half miles west from Warwick Neck point, bringing before me twice each day in my march to school a complete view of the bay from Providence to Newport without obstruc- tions of any kind, the forest having been rerfaoved from that region and the planting of ornamental trees not having become general, a few cherry trees, perhaps a dozen, being the only trees in the streets which are now shaded by the larger class of ornamental trees of more than a half century's growth. Na-vlsB-tlon by Sailing Packet. The first point to which I wish to direct your attention is that the coastwise or local navigation, so to speak, of the bay, Was exclusively carried on by sloops, usvially called packets, of which there were several in each town on the bay, as Providence, Newport, Warren, Wickford, Bristol, etc., in which were carried' all the freight and' passengers, to and' from places on the bay, and to New Yorkl Bong Island, the Connecticut ports and Nantucket. All this may seem unimportant, but this is the point to which I wish to call your special attention. At this time no freight was carried by the agency of steam either by land or wa- ter. One steamer, the Fulton, alone car- ried passengers between New York and Providence with no capacity for freight, and she would beaf no comparison, either in size, style or speed, with the ordinary river boats of this day, with which the bay now swarms. Bear in mind, please, that steam was Newport, 1800-1850 not applied to the propulsion of goods or passengers by land until a much later time, the first essay at the use of steam on railroads being several years sub- sequent; also, please bear in mind that the only fuel for cooking or heating purposes used in Rhode Island was wood. The only coal I had ever seen was a little bitu- minous coal, used in the blacksmiths forges and then called sea coal, because it came over sea from England or Nova Scotia. The first fire of anthracite coal I ever saw was in the front parlor of the jail on Marlborough street, Newport, as late as 1830. How I came to be there I cannot ex- plain, I think not as a malefactor. This was when Robert B. Cranston was sheriff, of whom I may speak later. It would be difficult to convey an idea of the enormous bulk of that commodity, wood, and the consequent enormous amount of capital which the trade in cordwood involved. The wharves in New- port were loaded down, at all times, with vast quantities of that very necessary ar- ticle, of every day consumption, on which the freightage could not but be immense every year. Supposing all the wood con- sumed in Newport, alone, in the two hundred years, in which that was the only fuel used, to be piled up together, the stujiendous magnitude of the mass would transcend the compass of the hu- man imagination, indeed, the amount of expense for the transportation of that ar- ticle of trade would, in that lapse of time, almost exceed human comprehen- sion. Like the wharves in Newport, those in Greenwich and Wickford were, in my early recollection, loaded to repletion with the products of the forests, now passing away. Besides the wood brought from Greenwich and Wickford and other points on the bay, a still larger proportion of the wood consumed in Newport was brought from Long Island and Connecticut ports, and all by the same class of vessels. Tlie Vessels of the Early Century. Another and larger class of vessels, rare- ly represented at this date, then frequent- ly presented to my youthful vision, were those employed in foreign trade or tomore distant coastwise points, and which were then quite numerous, the larger number being owned in Providence or Newport, a few however in each of the other seaports on Narragansett bay, and built in those various places, in each of which a flour- ishing shipbuilding interest had existed during the eighteenth century, sustained by the labor and enterprise of their own citizens and provided with material af- forded by the forests, the growth of their owti sol). The sloops of which I have spoken were generally of from 25 to 75 tons measure- ment, the class of vessels next larger were two masted schooners, fore and aft rigged, of from 50 to 150 tons, seldom larger. Of those exceeding that size, all were square rigged, and up to two hundred tons; were brigs or brigantines, then popularly known as hermaphrodite brigs. All above two hundred tons were ships and a very tew of these reached five hundred tons. The Leviathans of the present day and the tremendous motive power which they involve, were then totally undreamed of, and had there been any suggestion of what we daily and familiarly witness in this regard, the propagator of any such idea would have been regarded as a luna- tic and would be liable to be relegated to the treatment accorded such unfortunates. A large Bast Indian trade was then prosecuted in Providence, by several well known firms, as Brown & Ives, Edward Carrington and others, and a large and profitable West India trade contributed to the welfare and thrift surrounding the other seaports of the state. All this is now a thing of the past; the great sea- ports of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Norfolk, etc., have absorbed the business of exportation and importa- tion and have drowned out the commercial prestige of the smaller ports. HabitM of the Inhabitants. In my earliest recollections, the habits of the rural inhabitants of Rhode Island were not materially changed from those of their predecessors in the eighteenth century, and in point of fact were more in harmony with those of several preceding generations of the English yeomanry, than with those which now prevail among us. The modern inventions, power looms and mules, then only recently introduced into America, had not at that time fairly energized and made palpable their extreme potency by the complete revolution, which they very shortly effected in the meth- ods employed, in the production of textile fabrics. Steam power was then little more than a nursling. It had not in the least degree afforded any aid in the province of me- chanical power, so that the process of re- moving the manufacture of the very es- sential article of clothing from the farm to the workshop, or in other words, to the populous town, was then only in the stages of incipiency. I recollect perfectly well what was going on under my obser- vation, but of course my callow mind was incapable of the inductive processes which, in maturer years, presented themselves to me, viz: the fact that the children of work- Newport, 1800-1850. ing people at school with me were con- stantly being removed with their families from Greenwich to the factory villages then being established on the numerous water power sites in the neighboring val- ley of the Pawtuxet, for the purpose of securing employment for those children, in the mills being built with phenomenal rapidity. Notwithstanding these indications of change, many of the old habits were slow of extinction; the prescriptions, pre- cepts and traditions of many generations are not to be suddenly wiped out; accord- ingly, many of the time-honored habits of their ancestors were yet, for a long time, tenaciously adhered to by the older sort, among the rural denizens of the county of Kent, and, by parity, also, presumably, by those of the county of Newport. Tlie Siiinulng' Wlieel ajid Hana Loom. No farm house was without a wooden spinning wheel and reel, on which, the wool, the product of the farm, was spun into yarn, either by the females of the family or by the hired help, and, in very many cases, the hand loom held its own in the same or an adjoining room for the use of the same parties, and away in the attic or lean-to might have been seen the linen wheel, which, not so many years before, certainly up to the beginning of this cen- tury, had been the instrumentality by which the family had been furnished with its linen provisions of every variety, the fruit of the labor of the females of the household, dressed and spun and woven from the flax, the product of their own soil; and almost all the notable housewives of the period were proud to show the magnificent stores of napery, and of wool- en sheets and woolen counterpanes, the work of their own hands. Without such a store of her own handiwork, no young woman was considered qualified properly to enter the married state, and among the most genteel and pretentious families, in Kent county, the young ladies were emu- lous of distinction in the use of the dis- taff, and indulged in the exhibition of their skill and industry in public competition for prizes for superiority in that exer- cise. There is a record, also, extant, of a surprise party, as it would now be de- nominated, in which the ladies of Elder Bliss's congregation, i. e. the Seventh Day Baptists, in Newport, passed the day at his residence spinning fiax for the benefit of his family. Not a vestige of any of the avocations I have very imperfectly de- scribed can now be found in Rhode Island, except a few dilapidated wheels, preserved as time honored memorials. The Facilities for TraTCl. It may be easily understood that In the state of things, which I have attempted faintly to describe, the facilities for trav- eling from place to place, either for pleas- ure or business, were comparatively small. By land the only means for such indul- gences were afforded by private convey- ances or by mail stages carrying passen- gers and United States mails, by which method a distance of fifty miles a day might be accomplished through a phenom- enal conjunction of favorable circum- stances, as fine roads, fine weather, fine horses and superior accommodations, for wayfarers, and especially for horses, in the hostelries, which were provided on most well traveled roads, and it is also to be considered that large expenditure was involved in these modes of locomotion, as, for example, the stage route from Bos- ton to New York, at fifty miles per day, would imply four days' journey, with three meals each day and four nights' lodgings, which would make near ten dol- lars for expenses, besides the stage ex- pense, at about eight cents per mile, mak- ing in all, for two hundred miles, twenty- six dollars, instead of which now the whole expense, putting out of the question the saving of time, would be only about five dollars, so that you can make five trips be- tween those two points at a cost no greater than one could be made then, either in money or time. It you should select the water route, before the steamer was put on the line, which was in say 1820, you have first the stage route from Boston to Providence; forty miles, then you embark on the old fashioned sloop or packet, and having made your will beforehand, and committed your soul to God, and your family to the mercy of Divine Providence, and putting on your boots, if you happen to be possessed of that desirable article of apparel, you com- mitted your body to the risks and vi- cissitudes of an encounter with the annoy- ances and perils of a voyage on the raging Narragansett and of Point Judith, of the Race and of Hell Gate, with the chance, if the elements are propitious, that is if the weather is reasonably good and all the combinations of wind and tide are favor- able, that you may reach your destination. New York, in two or three revolutions of the earth on its axis; at any rate, with a reasonable probability that you will be at your goal at the expiratiom of a week. No discussion is necessary to bring to your minds the comparison of the modes of pro- .4- ^^'wpQr;^, i^qQ-1850. .gressiou, then iu use, and to which I have adverted, as existing, within my own ex- perience, and those we now enjoy. As an illustration o£ iwhat I have en- deavored to bring before you, whose recol- lections reach not very far back, I have seen my father, twice, mount his horpe in East Greenwich for a journey to Columbia, Mawry County, Tennessee, a distance of fifteen hundred miles, once in 1821, and the second time about 1825, from the last of which journeys he returned on horseback, on an animal purchased in Florence, Ala- bama. By no possibility could those two journeys have been accomplished, except by the consumption of a larger number of weeks than the number of days which would now be required for the same jour- neys. A Loiigr , Voyasre. As a further illustration, I will give you a history, in brief, of a voyage of my own, perfectly fresh in my memory, made when I was four years old. I left East Green- wich with my mother- and an uncle to see their grandfather in Newport^ twenty-miles distant, across the bay, (about an hour's trip for the bay steamers, in present use) in one of the packets before mentioned, commanded by .a Captain Baker of Wick- ford. We left Greenwich on a fine summer morning at 9 o'clock, and .after twelve hours on the bay we had the good fortune to get back home at 9 o'clock in the, even- ing. After a comfortable night in our own beds we, again embarked on the second day at 9 o'clock in the morning and arrived, at our destination at 9 o'clock at night,, hav- ing occupied thirty-six hours in the pros- ecution of a voyage of twenty ,miles. The period on which I have so far dwelt is that in which the preponderating influ- ence of steam, which has since so com- pletely and for so long dominated all the processes of ciyillzed life, was in its spec- ulative, or more properly in its tentative era, and only practical in a very partial and limited degree. In the navigation of western rivers and the Hudson and Long Island sound, it had proved, without ques- tion, its economic supremacy, but its ap- plicability to deep sea navigation had not been submitted to any , serious tests, and its potentiality as a productive power in all mechanical processes was, as yet, in abeyance. At the time when my personal reminis- cences and reflections must principally depend on a Newport residence as a stand- point, no suggestion had yet made the faintest appeal to the imagination of the public of the possible application of elec- tricity to practical purposes, and not until about 1850, twenty years later, was the first electric telegraph made to conduct messages over any long distances, and even then, and for a long time after, the idea of the adaptability of electricity as a .locomotive agent and as a predominative factor in the generation of mechanical force was confined to the bosoms of a few dreamers and savans. Tlie Advaixce of Science. Not until after the lapse of many years and,, until a very late period of my mature life, and even now, the possibilities of, the discovery of potentialities, in what was Jiot very , Ipng ago, a mystical and obscure ^Wence entirely without influence in the affairs of economic life, , (except, as ad- ministered by divine intelligence), was any material advance made in the utilization of tills marvellous principle. Now, on the contrary,, its potency is being .developed in a ratio that ,fllls all minds with astonish- ment and seems to indicate that there is no limitation to the capacity of the human intellect for scientific progress or to the .beneficence of the Divine intelligence, through , which all things have existence ^nd wftich has provided material for .the exercise of all the attributes and capaci- ties with which the human intellect is in- vested. How shall we sufiiciently admire and prize the human : intellect and how ade- qua,tely appreciate and love and worship 'that 'infinitely transcendant intelligence, which guides and governs all. The sub- lime attributes of hurnanity are so admir- ably- set forth, by Tristam Burges, that I cannot forbear quoting from one of his raphsodical essays. "Guided by reason, man has traveled through the abstruse regions of the phil- osophic world. He has originated rules, by which he can direct the ship through the pathless ocean and measure the com- et's flight over the fields of unlimited space. He has established society and government. He can aggregate the pro- fusions of every climate, and of every sea- son. He can meliorate the severity and remedy the imperfections of nature her- self. All these things he can perform, by the assistance, of reason." "By imagination man seems to verge towards creative powers. Aided by this he can perform all the wonders of sculpture and painting. He can almost make the marble speak. He can almost make f the brook murmur down the painted land- scape. Often on the pinions of imagina- tion he soars aloft, where the eye has never traveled, where other stars glitter on the mantle of night and a more effulgent sun lights up the blushes of the morning. "Flying from world to world, he gazes on all the glories , of creation, or lighting , on the distant margin of the univeiise darts Newport, 1800-1850. the eye of |£mcy over the mighty void, where power creative never yet has ener- gized, where existence still sleeps, in the wide abyss of possibility. "By ii^aginatif>n man can travel back to ^he source of time, coiiverse with the suc- fiessive generations (>f men and kindle into emulation while he sucveys the monumen- tal trophies of ancient art and glory. He can sail down the stream of time until he loses .'sight of stars and sun,' by wandering into thope retired parts of eternity, 'when the . heavens and earth shall be no more.' ■To the unequivocal characteristics of greatness in man, let us adduce the tes- timqny of nature herself. Surrounding creation subserves the wants and pro- claims the dignity of man. For him, day and night visit the world. For him the seasons walk their splendid round. For him the, ear^th teems with riches and the heavens smile, with beneficence. All cre- ation is 'aociirately adjusted to his capacity Hor bliss. ' He tastes the dainties of fes- fivityi breathes the perfumes of the morn- ing, revpls in the charms of melody, and regales his. eye with all the painted beau- .ties of vision. Whatever can please, w:hatever can charm, whatever can ex- papd his soul with ecstasy of bliss, allures and .solicits his attention. All things t>eautUul, all things grand, all things sub- lime appear in native loveliness and prof- fer ,m^ the richest pleasures of fruition." Although .tlie peripd of commercial im- portance and prominence of Newport had culminated at the time of the British oc- cupation, in the early part of the Revolu- tipiiary war, and never recovered its, for- mer glory, and a,lthpugh, from that time there was a decadance in the amount of its capital and the success of its enterprises, yet up to my first recollection and for many, years after the habits of the com- m.unity were influenced very materially by the atmosphere of maritime enterprise which had pervaded her population dur- ing the lapse of a century and a half of colonial lite, in which, her commercial ven- tures were distinguished by the success and energy with which they were prose- cuted, when her sails whitened every sea and the credit of her merchants was held In high repute on every European ex- change. Although, as I have intimated, her pretensions and her resources and her successes were in a declining condition and her operations graded on a very re- duced scale, still the principal features of Newport life were associated with mari- time adventure, and her old men were largely superannuated sea captains; if past the time of life tor sea service, en- gaged in some avocation associated with the commercial marine, or if in the prime of life, in command of sea-going vessels. The younger classes were subordinate of- ficers in the same service or in the naval service of the United States, if possessed of family influence or especial promise. liOolciiis to a Seafaring . Life. The boys at school with me, almost with- out exception, looked forward to a seafar- ing life as the natural way to success in life, and to the sea as the theatre for the development of their talents and energies, thoSe whose ambition was prominent early becoming oflieers, but many becoming and remaining ordinary seamen, or, as the phrase wsis, foremast men. It is very observable that most of the crews of those days in Newport were Newport men, often serving the same employers during their whole lives, and so of other vessels be- longing to other parts of the bay, which were manned by their own townsmen. Whereas now all crews are shipped in the large cities and are largely foreigners, being furnished by the class of men called shipping masters. This class of men, the common sailors, at that date had habits and a style of dress peculiar to themselves, and a patois, also, pretty well interlarded with more or less profane expressions, generally more. They have now lost, in great measure, their distinctiveness; their picturesque and not unattractive charac- teristics are made prominent in the songs of Dobdin, especially, and are now, aXaa, among the things that were. Prom what I have said it will appear that Newport, although its metropolitaja pretension and maritime supremacy had suffered great and obvious declension, had not so far emerged from its former hab- its of lite and methods of subsistence as to have divested itself of the external signs of its former customs and pursuits in the earlier years of the present century as it since has. The aura of commercial magnificence and that pertaining to its long existing predominance, as the centre of political life and energy in the colony and state, theretofore unchallenged, had only par- tially been dissipated. Providence, whose phenomenal advance in importance and population and wealth had developed as the natural consequence of her position, making her, in effect, "facile princeps," the "Entrepot" for the vast manufacturing interests which have latterly grown up in logical sequence in the superb valleys ,of the Pawtuxet, the Wonasquetucket and the Seekonk, was at the beginning of the Revolutionary struggle comparatively of minor consequence, she being then ■ only Newport, 1800-1850. third in population among the towns in Rhode Island, Newport being first and South Kingstown second. Neivporl in the State Goveruiuent. In the earlier period of the existence oj the colony Roger Williams was the chief officer under the title of president; he also held that title under the Parliamentary charter of 1643, from 1654 to 1657. Except- ing at which time, the colony was provided with an executive chief only by residents of Newport, until May 1727, when Joseph Jencks was elected governor, and until 1732, only, with the proviso that he should become a resident of Newport, and at the time of his inauguration the General As- sembly voted to appropriate the sum of £100 for the expense of his honor, the governor's removal to Newport from Prov- idence, so essential was it deemed that the governor's residence should be in Newport; and it is a matter of well authenticated tradition that John Greene, Jr., who was deputy governor from 1690 to 1700 and was entitled by every consideration to have been governor, never was elected tu that position because he would nof change his residence from Warwick to Newport. His grandson, William Greene, and his great grandson, William Greene, Jr., were gov- ernors, successively of the colony and the state after 1743, and still both remaining residents of Warwick. Singularly enough, from the establishment of the Royal charter, of King Charles II. in 1663 until 1797 at the expiration of Henry Ward's Incumbency of thirty-seven years, the position of secretary of the colony and state had never been held but by residents of Newport county; and the office of gen- eral treasurer had never been held, with the exception of two years by Randal Holden of Warwick, 1652 to 1654, by any but a resident of Newport, until the de- cease of Hon. Samuel A. Parker, which oc- curred on February 4, 1872. It is worthy of note that this position was filled, infer- entially in a very satisfactory manner, by Hon. Thomas P. Pitman of Newport, from 1817 to 1832, fifteen years, all of which emphasizes the theory or, if you please, the condition of the former metro- politan claims of Newport, in her political relations. In my first knowledge of Newport we find presented all the appearance of an im- portant seaport town which, although par- tially decadent, shows a large number of monuments of her former mercantile and maritime character, no other form of in- dustry having entirely superseded her tra- ditional vocations. Her workshops, her mechanics, her laborers and artisans were the successors in their kind of her palm- iest days. The RoiiCTrallcs. There were at that time in full activity seven ropewalks; viz.: Tew's, on Old Beach road; Brinley's and Tilley's, on Catherine street; two on Touro street, near the Jewsl Cemetery, belonging to the heirs of Deacon William Tilley; one on Farewell street, Caswell and Buliod's, and one on Warner street, owned and wrought by Ab- raham Tilley. All these were engaged in the manufacture of heavy cordage for the supply of rigging and ground tackle for sea-going vessels, and depended for their market on the shipping, still employed in foreign and coastwise trade by the mer- chants of Newport. Two stores on Thames street, near Stevens's wharf, nowBowen's, did a large and active trade in every va- riety of rigging and cordage, chiefly the product of these ropewalks, which prod- ucts enjoyed a high reputation in the mercantile world. Besides the ropewalks, on which numer- ous families depended for subsistence, there were a large number of shops, gen- erally situated oh the wharves, for the use of the artisans connected with the ship- ping interest, as block-and-pump-makers, blacksmiths, sail-makers, coopers, etc., of which scarcely any now remain, the whole constituting the most conspicuous feature of the industrial life of that day. The Old Distlllei-les. At this time, also, there remained, as a monument of an episode in our history not the most acceptable according to mod- ern ideas, four distilleries for the manu- facture of New England rum in active op- eration, besides the remains of numerous former distilleries in the shape of decay- ing cisterns showing at low tide all along the shore, especially on the borders of the cove — reminiscences of what is so often referred to as the trigeminal trade, in which the molasses, imported from the West Indies, was converted into rum in our distilleries, exported to Africa in our own bottoms, and there exchanged tor negro slaves, generally prisoners of war, who were brought back to the West Indies and there exchanged for other cargoes of molasses and for such balances of moi- doresand pistoles as made the trade abund- antly profitable to our ships' officers, com- panies and owners. These native Africans, having in view the alternative between being eaten in Africa and being trans- ported to America to be sold as slaves, were in many cases it not in all, rather in- clined to the latter horn of the dilemma, and perhaps, our severe judgment as to Newport, 1800-1850. the criminality of these transactions might in some degree be modified in their inten- sity by these features of their unfortunate position. In view of the whole matter. Rev. Gardiner Thurston may be more le- niently judged in regard to his hebdom- adal prayer. In which he never failed of an ascription of thanlfsgiving to the Deity for his beneficence, in bringing the be- nighted heathen to this land of gospel light for instruction. I^et me not be un- derstood as saying a word in justiflcation of a wrong, which is In violation of my convictions of right from my birth up. The transactions, heretofore described, were repeated, ad infinitum, with the re- turn cargoes, until the disturbances pre- ceding and accompanying the Revolution decimated the population of Newport and left the harbor and the town a scene of desolation and waste, and threw a shadow of unthrift upon the locality from which three quarters of a century succeeding had hardly afforded signs of recuperation. No NevF Uonses. My first impressions of Newport were of a place ' in a comparatively decaying con- dition, 'ihe buildings, as a whole, were not neglected in point of reasonable re- pairs, but only a few of the public edifices were liept well painted so as to present any indications of the degree of smartness they now afford. Scarcely any of the dwellings had the appearance of having had their birth within the preceding fifty years, and, in point of fact, very few had. I have been told by some of the older men of earlier days that a new house of more than the most ordinary pretensions would be an object of curious interest, for ten or twelve years, and would be the objective point of attraction for the usual Sunday evening stroll, which at other times usu- ally terminated at the cemetery. A story used to be told of an Irishman, who landed here in my childhood, when a Hibernian was a rarity, and he was ex- pected to stand godfather to all jokes, good or bad, who said "By St. Patrick, I believe they build all old houses in New- port." Notwithstanding all this Newport was even then an exceptionally alluring and delightful place in my inexperienced imagination. The Deeatleiice ot Business. At the conclusion of the Revolution many of the leading merchants of New- port who had retired on its occupation by the British had re-established themselves in other places and had failed to return, particularly the Hebrew community, which was quite large and whose leading men had been for many years among the most esteemed and worthy and successful of the population of the town, were almost en- tirely lost, themselves and their capital and their enterprise, and their energies and activity turned to account in other communities. This was the case of the Touro family, of whom the two brothers, Abraham and Judah, have shown by their munificence, their appreciation of their father's home and the place of their nativ- ity, in their generous contributions to the useful and ornamental features of our city. The firm of Brown & Ives of Providence, which has been for more than a century the synonym for strength, wealth and in- tegrity, prominent in all good works and praiseworthy enterprises, had as its origi- nal members John Brown, George Benson and John Rogers, the two latter of whom were refugees from Newport in conse- quence of the British ocupation, and, al- though the original names are materially changed in process of time, the descend- ants of those men are still prominent citi- zens of Providence, among them being Hon. Horatio Rogers of the Rhode Island supreme court and the family of the late Hon. Samuel Greene Arnold, late lieuten- ant governor and United States Senator from Rhode Island. There was not at the time of which I am speaking a very large number of ves- sels engaged in very distant voyages, nor were they of very heavy tonnage. Among them, I recollect seeing at the Long wharf, the ship Elbe, fully loaded with Swedish iron from the Baltic sea, owned by Cap- tain Stephen T. Northam, and commanded by Captain John R. Stanhope, the father of Mrs. Samuel Engs, one of the most enter- prising of the ship captains of Newport. She was a reasonably large ship, her em- ployment being generally in the European trade, either to Mediterranean or Baltic ports. Another, an exceptionally small ship of not more than two hundred tons, named the Boy, was in the same line of trade She was owned by Lieutenant Governor Charles Collins and commanded by Captain Nathaniel Greene of Bast Greenwich. Another fairly sized ship, the George Champlin, was owned by Hon. Christopher G. Champlin and commanded by Captain Benedict Dayton. She also was in the European trade, but was later con- verted into an Arctic whaler, of which class of vessels quite a large number were not very long after owned here. Besrinnlnf!: of tlie Slilpbnildlng In- dnstry. About 1830, I think, somewhat earlier, there came to reside in this town, Mr. William Hazard Crandall, from Westerly, where he had acquired a reputation as a smart and skilful shipbuilder, and with 8 Netbfort, iSoo-tS^Xi. him a large number of men of the same trade, who became established with their families as residents here. Coincident with this accession to our population a fresh impulse seems to have been given to the shipbuilding interest here, and almost identically with these circumstances a new direction was given to the commercial spirit of the community. New Bedford and Nantucket had become noted and wealthy in the prosecution of the sperm whale fishery in the Arctic seas, while the old time traditional mer- cantile pursuits of Newport, which had so long been our^ dependence, no longer af- forded any brilliant successes nor prom- ised much in the future, and a determina- tion now manifested itself, on the part of the business community of Newport to eniulate the adventurous spirit and the en- terprise and persistence of our neighbors, which had brought them such brilliant re- sults, under the very reasonable and logical impression that the natural advan- tages of those places were in no respect superior to our own in Newport. As a result In a few years a number of ships being built here and others pur- chased from other places, a very respect- able whaling fleet was owned here and that interest became a leading feature in Newport biisiriess life. If my impression is correct, this fleet at one time comprised as many as fifteen shipp. Two ships had previously been employed in the same service with marked success, the Alliance and the Frederick Augustus, but after the business had been in existence about tweity years engrossing most of the means and energies of the larger part of the Newport merchants, it was found not so productive as had been expected and gradually was abandoned, and at the ex- piration of about twenty years had pretty much ceased to be. About the same time, as the whaling of Newport collapsed from various causes, prominent among which, probably, the chief was, the discovery of the much cheaper and more desirable lUuminants afforded by the petroleum products. The sperm whale industry, probably, from like causes, rapidly fell off in New Bedford and Nantucket and is now in "the sere and yellow lea.f," and comparatively of little significance. No lal'ge commercial ventures were en- tered into after the collapse o£ the whal- ing enterprise, and about that time New- port began to look forward in the direction of what seems to be the "decree of Pate," viz: the consecration on the part of the community to the duty of furnishing a pleasure resort for people of liberal means of the larger' cities of the cohtlhent; for the summer season. Snuimer Visitors. As early as 1827 there was resident In this town and occupying the old mansiol house of Francis Brinley, Esq., deceasefl,' on Catherine street, which afterward* be- came known and famous as the Bellevue House, a family which consisted of a Mr. and Mistress Windsor; English people, who soon became very well known in the community. I recollect, in April, 1827, when I passed a month in Newport on a visit, seeing constantly most of the larger class of girls or young ladies, passing along the streets carrying what were called lace frames, which indicated that they were pupils of Mrs. Windsor, learn- ing from her the mysteries of lace work, which at that time appeared to absorb al- most all the attention of those young per- sons, who, I being about eleven years of age, may be supposed to have attracted a considerable share of my attention. This lace working affair seemed ephemeral in its length of hold on the fashion, for I do not remember to have seen or heard any more of it in my subsequent visits and residence here. A NeTv Kra. But another avocation was evolved, through the influence of the Windsors, of more weighty consequence to the people of Newport, destined to survive their exodus, tor many generations. Their period of residence was almost as ephemeral as the lace working industry, although they are entitled to the credit of originating the movement which has resulted in making Newport, what we claim she is and is to be, the Queen of American Watering places. It had been the practice with a portion of the best class of planters from some of the Southern states, but especially from South Carolina, to brine their families north and to place them in the occuoa- tion of hired houses or at board in pri- vate families at or near Newport during the summer, returning home on the ap- proach of winter. This practice had pre- vailed for many years, the same families being' expected here from year to year, as a rule, for a period dating back even to Revolutionary times. These were always referred to as our Southern visitors or boarders, the number of such visitors, not increasing very much from year to j;';ar, until the time to which I refer, neimely, the fourth decade of the present century, 1830 to 1840. The innovation introduced by Mr. and Mrs. Windsor was the estab- lishment of a stylish boarding house in the Newport, 1800-1850. Brinley house, which soon became a popu- lar and fashionable resort, not only for our Southern friends, who for a long time con- stituted the bulk of its patrons, but for such persons of means and leisure in our northern cities as were tempted to pass longer or shorter periods of time in New- port for the enjoyment of its beautiful scenery and its charming climate, and tor its superior bathing privileges, which soon began to grow on the fashionable taste. Although for a time the Southern visitors were preponderant in the summer colony in process of time the other elements in- creased in a more rapid ratio, until, before the slavery diSaculties preceding the war of the Rebellion had induced animosities, naturally, as their result, the southern planter portion of our visitors had be- come a factor of minor importance. The career of the Windsors, as 1 have hinted, was a short one, but during their stay, the Windsor House, as it was then called, was pretty well patronized, and un- der the charge of Mr. William T. Potter, who succeeded them, became a very fash- ionable summer hostelry, and financially successful in Mr. Potter's hands, and also in those of Mr. William W. Hazard, who was Mr. Potter's successor. On Mr. Pot- ter's accession to the control the name was changed to Bellevue House, under which it was familiar to many o£ you. The agency of the Windsors in its inception is almost forgotten, except possibly by a few of the oldest inhabitants. The establish- ment of the Windsor House was, however, the first step in the inauguration of the movement which is often referred to as the era of large hotels, which, after a lim- ited period of existence and popularity and somewhat precarious financial success, gave way to the present, which is general- ly spoken of as the era of cottage life. Tlie Hotel ReiTlme. The hotels which grew up under the "hotel regime," as we may say, were suc- cessively the Whitfield House on Touro street, owned and occupied as landlord by Charles Whitfield, burned in the superla- tively cold winter of 1856. The Atlantic, built by Mr. William T. Potter, the former landlord of the Bellevue, and kept by him and afterward by his son, Abraham A. Potter, and subsequently by Joseph B. Weaver, and by William Newton, was then occupied by the United States Naval Academy, in the time when it was re- u, ved to Newport, during the war, and finally it was in the control of Mr. Will- iam W. Hazard, who had formerly kept the Bellevue sind Fillmore Houses. After its vacation by Mr. Hazard, it was re- moved or destroyed. Its location was on the corner of Bellevue avenue and Pel- ham street, now the residence of Mr. Stitt. After Mr. Hazard's retirement from the Bellevue House, in his earlier career, he built a large house directly east of it, which he kept for some time, named the Fillmore House, which was afterwards cut up and converted into a number of dwell- ings in the same neighborhood. After Mr. Hazard's retirement from the Bellevue House it was kept for awhile by Mr. Fran- cis Baring Peckham^Senr., then of Newport, afterward of Providence, and finally, for a short time, by Mr. John G. Weaver, famil- iar to you all as the proprietor of the Ocean House in later times. The only hotel now remaining entitled to be classed with those I have mentioned, is the Ocean House, which was originally built in 1843, and of which the late John G. Weaver, who had previously been as- sociated in the management of the Belle- vue House, became proprietor. This house was destroyed by fire in August, 1846, of which lamentable casualty I was an eye- witness. In this conflagration Samuel Fowler Gardner, Esq., one of the most conspicuous and highly esteemed of the gentlemen and business men of Newport, was destroyed. After this calamity the house was rebuilt on a larger scale, and Mr. Weaver immediately resumed the oc- cupation of it, as you know, and remained in it until his decease, since which the house has been successively in the control of John G. Weaver, Jr., Warren Leland and Warren Leland, Jr. The Aquidneck House, Perry House and United States, being more peculiarly adapted to the ac- commodation of transient visitors, are properly excluded from this class. Newport Loses its Homogrenelty. Contemporaneously with the accession of Mr Crandall with his shipbuilding en- terprise, and his association In that vo- cation, and the simultaneous falling off in the prosecution of foreign commerce, and its replacement in a certain degree by the whaling business, other changes occurred, especially interesting ajid important in the study of the history of Newport in this century, the most salient of which changes, and the one which engraves Itself most sharply on the memory of those whose imagination reverts to the early days of it, is this; Whereas, in 1800 and somewhat later the population of Newport was homogene- ous; that is to say, a very large proportion of the inhabitants were descended from the original settlers of Rhode Island, and practically all were, with few exceptions, Yankees, or In other words of English de- 10 Newport, 1800-1850. scent, and had, from generation to gener- ation, inberited the homesteads and in very majiy cases the callings of their pro- genitors, Newport since the Revolution had offered no great inducements to im- migration; on the contrary her energetic and enterprising youth were constantly tempted by the greater activity of other places to seek more inviting fields for the exercise of their talents and capacities, and we accordingly find branches from old Newport families scattered through- out the continent. Until after 1820 very few Irishmen had appeared in Newport, their accession in any considerable force dating from the co(mmencement of work at Fort Adams. Shortly after that time the first colony of that natioaallty, in my recollection, oc- cupied a village of temporary dwellings of a very primitive character among the rocky hills west of Brenton's cove, on the government's lands, a few living in town and going to the fort every week-day moaning in rowboats. Now the propor- tion of the population of Newport, which is partially or wholly of Irish lineage, cannot fall very much short of one third. Bnildins Mills. About the same time that so large an amount of capital was diverted from its old and time-honored channels by the more flattering prospects presented by the whale fishery, or supposed to be, the new industry, then just beginning to foreshow the wonderful prosperity which has since materialized in the northern parts of the state, combined with the circumstance that the then recent application of steam had apparently obviated the necessity of water power as a factor in the production of cotton or other textile fabrics, induced the merchants of Newport to make large investments in the experiment of building mills for that purpose, which were of course dependent on steam for motive pow- er. The first movement in this direction, if my recollection is accurate, was the build- ing of a small wooden mill by Sullivan Randolph, Esq, on the north side of Pop- lar street, directly east of where the rail- road now runs, and which was many years ago burned by a fire, kindled by sparks from a locomotive. This mill, after being run for a time by Mr. Randolph, was rented by Mr. Samuel Rodman of South Kingstown for the spinning of yarns for use in the weaving department of the woolen mills on the wharf now Brown & Howard's coal wharf. The building on this wharf, originally Ruggles' distillery, was converted into a factory by Samuel Harris, at the commencement of this movement. It afterwards became the property of Thomas R. Hazard, who ran it for some years, latterly through the agency of Jon- athan Hazard. Still later, it was rented by Samuel Rodman, and eventually, by James Curtis, and was finally burned. It occupied the vacant space on the north side below the tenement houses, which, as well as the block of stores and houses fronting on Thames street, were part of the estate, and I think were built by Mr. Hazard. The next mill built was the stone build- ing on the wharf at the foot of Howard street, called tor a long time the Newport mill. This at a later time passed out of the hands of its original Newport owners and became the property of the Richmond Manufacturing Company of Providence, and was known as the Richmond mill. It is now occupied by the plant of the Electric Illuminating Company. The Coading-toii Mill. Next after this in point of time, I think, was the erection of the Ooddington mill, which was a brick building larger than any of the others, and occupied the space between the Coddington wharf, below Dearborn street, and what is now known as Harrington street, on the south of which are two rows of tenements, called Coddington blocks, which were the prop- erty of the owners of the mill, and were in- tended for the mill hands. This factory was also destroyed by fire. The next and last factory building to be erected was the Perry mill, long ago abandoned for the purposes for which it was designed, but, I think, one of the lat- est in the prosecution of cotton manu- facturing, under the control of Messrs. Benjamin Finch, Samuel Bailey and Sum- ner M. Stewart. This is the fine building of Rocky Farm stone, nearly opposite the foot of Fair street, and now owned by Hon. William P. Sheffield. This business of cotton manufacturing, though it survived that of the whale fish- ery, was not in the aggregate a much greater success, but it had a very marked influence in changing the character of the population from the remarkable homo- geneity to which I have alluded to the equally noticeable cosmopolitanism by which it is now distinguished. The Iiiflnence of Outsiders. The accretion of denizens due to the es- tablishment of the cotton manufacture here was in a large measure owing to the ne- cessity of bringing people from other man- ufacturing places who had some degree of skill in the necessary processes, and be- cause of the disinclination to the adoption of new and untried habits and customs, to which the people of Newport were pecu- Newport, 1800-185,0. II lia.rly averse, as all insular folk are re- puted to be, and because of their especial tenacity in adhering to all the traditional prejudices by which they were character- ized. As most of these accessions were of Eu- ropean birth and training, and as most of the mills had been located on Thames street south of Franklin street, the residence of this class was naturally fixed in proximity to their work, the result of which was, as a matter of course, to change the character of that part of the town, which had previously some title to be considered the "Court End" or Saint Cloud, and to identify it with the class of artisans associated with the new manufac- turing interest. Newport's liiuiited Area. At that time the south part of Thames street bore somewhat the same relation to the rest of the town that Bellevue ave- nue and Kay street, Catherine street, etc., do now. The most stylish and genteel resi- dences, and the most fashionable, or to speak more properly, perhaps, the more pretentious families were there; that is to say, between the custom house and Pope street, which was the limit of population, south. No crossing streets then existed from Pope street to Brenton, now Morton avenue. Spring street then extended only to the entrance to Morton Park, Coggeshall avenue being closed by a succession of gates, and Bellevue avenue terminating where the Ocean House now stands, Bath road not being laid open, or Catharine street, beyond Greenough place, or Kay street. There was, until the improvements then just being projected, no access to the beach except by the Old Beach road, and by sufferance, by a private way, across what was familiarly known as the Gibbs farm, and closed by gates at each end, which gangway extended diagonally from the entrance to Mr. Marquand's estate to the west entrance to the beach. Some conception, but a very faint one, may be formed of the "status" at that time, when it is stated as approximately true that pre- viously the whole area occupied by what was usually referred to as the compact part of Newport did not much exceed half of one square mile, whereas now it may be computed as approaching, if not exceeding, six square miles in area. If it be difBcult to believe this estimate correct, remember that east of Bellevue avenue there were no streets, or any residences but farm-houses. South of Pope street the same state of things existed, and also north of Lake's corner, otherwise Equality Park, and all east of Broadway, all which tracts, now including a very material part of the popu- lation, are covered with residences, none of which have existed in those localities for more than sixty years. To repeat, the old limits of the town proper were, from north to south, one mile, and from east to west, that is, from the harbor line to Bellevue avenue, not more than a half- mile. Governineiit Officials In tlie Early- Century. The United States government building, in which the custom house and postoffice now have their "habitat," was erected somewhere about 1830, under the direction of Hon. Christopher EUery, who was then collector of the port, in succession to his uncle and cousin, Hon. William Ellery, Senior and Junior. Hon. William Ellery, Senior, signer of the Declaration of Independence, the first collector under the United States constitu- tion, was appointed to that post by the first President, General Washington, in 1789, and was retained in office until his decease, in 1820, thirty years, twenty of which transpired within the century now approaching its conclusion. On his death he was succeeded by his son, William Ellery, Junior, and he, many years be- fore his death, by his cousin, Hon. Chris- topher Ellery, Junior, who had been a member of the Congress of the United States, so that the incumbency of that office, on the retirement of Mr. Christopher Ellery, many years preceding his death, had been in the Ellery family for forty years successively, and during the Presi- dential terms of Washington, Adams, Jeff- erson, Madison, Monroe, J. Q. Adams and part of General Jackson's, showing the high estimation in which that family had been held for a very long time, the appointment of the first Collector Ellery having been conferred by General Wash- ington in consideration of his claims as an early and earnest advocate of inde- pendence, and of his high standing as a member of that august body which boldly and. bravely placed itself in the van of human advancement. • Mr. Ellery was the grandfather of that distinguished divine and philosopher whom we all delight to honor. Rev. William Bllery Channing, D. D., and father of George Wanton Bllery, Esq., whom most of us remember sis a life-long and most efficient officer on the custom house staff. In my first knowledge, in 1827, the office of the custom house was in the building on the corner of Thames street and Cot- ton's court, now Charles Hammett's book store, and was removed to the newbullding 12 Newport, 1800-1850. at the corner of Franklin street Imme- diately after its completion. The post- offlce, now in the same building, was not removed thither until many years after; in point of fact, the postofflce was, until its final consignment to its present and palpably logical position, entirely a peri- patetic institution, as had also been the custom house, until its last "hegira." The postofflce, until near the commence- ment of my observation, had been for many years presided over, far into this century, by Mr. Benjamin Mumford, the grand- father of our late highly esteemed fellow- townsman, George C. Mason, Esq., who died in office. Under Mr. Mumford it was located in the building on . Thames street, third below Bannister's wharf, west side, now the bakery of Simeon Davis, Esq. My first recollection of it was in an office just above Bowen's wharf, 0(Q the west side of Thames street, the postmaster then being Hon. Robert B. Cranston, after- wards Representative in Congress, and whom I have heretofore spoken of as at one or more times high sheriff of the county, in all of which capacities his ex- ecutive power was very conspicuous. At a later time it was in the building in which are the New England Commercial Bank and Mr. Crandall's music store, Mr. Robert Robinson Carr being postmaster. Subsequently, on the election of the first President Haxrison, in 1841, Hon. Asher Robbinjs was appointed postmaster, and the office removed to the Swinburne block, now the Daily News office. Still later Mr. Buchanan being President Hon. Joseph Joslin became postmaster, and the office was removed to the Swin- burne block, now the Daily News Printing Office, above Church street. He was suc- ceeded by Timothy Coggeshall, Esq Eventually it found a temporary resting place, before its final removal, in the Newton building on Pelham street, for- merly the residence of David Melville, Esq., and later Benjamin Bateman's mar- ket, third door above Thames street, at which time and place it was presided over by the late Hon. James Atkinson, whilom mayor of Newport. Subsequently to its final removal the in- cumbents have been successively Messrs. Thomas Coggeshall, Lewis C. Brown, H. H. Fay and Dalton B. Young, who is the present postmaster. A Concluding Tliongbt. Having thus discursively and not chrono- logically or in any wise systematically, treated of such subjects as suggested themselves to my mind as capable of amusing or interesting such an audience as I have the honor and pleasure to ad- dress, I take leave to offer my apologies for the defects of which I am conscious, in this, especially, that on the one side, the abundance of material tempted me to mul- tiplication of topics, which must of ne- cessity have been vouchsafed very super- ficial elaboration, and, on the other hand, the apprehension of dwelling too much on such subjects as might not appeal to the tastes and sympathies of my listeners, as to those with which peculiarities of educa- tion and habits have inspired myself. Between "Scylla and Charybdis," there- fore, I trust I have not trespassed too much on your forbearance, and beg leave to thank you most cordially for the pa- tience and kindness with which you have listened to me.