i arations have been properly made. Hence will be seen the necessity for capital in this business, for the re- turns, though highly remunerative, are not always quick. MAS LTRES. 33 CHA.PTER VI. MANURES. The quantity, quality, and proper application of ma- nures is of the utmost importance in all gardening opera- tions, and few have any conception of the immense quan- tity necessary to produce the heavy crops seen in our- market gardens. Of stable or barn-yard manure, from fifty to one hundred tons per acre is used, and prepared, for at least six months previously, by thoroughly, turning and breaking up to prevent its heating unduly. The usual method is to have the manure yard formed in a low part of the garden, but if there is no natural depres- sion, one may be made by digging out an area fifty by one hundred feet and from eighteen to twenty-four inches deep, and enclosing it by a fence about six feet in height. The wagons are driven alongside, and the green manure thrown into the enclosure, care being taken to have it spread regularly ; hogs are usually kept upon the manure in numbers sufficient to break it up, they being fed in part by the refuse vegetables and weeds of the garden. The manure of horses is most valued, as we consider it, weight for weight, worth about one-fourth more than that of cows or hogs ; on stiff soils it is of much more benefit as a pulverizer. There are many articles — the refuse of manufactures — that are still wasted, that have great value as manures. Among others, and of first im- portance, is the refuse hops from the breweries. It is twenty' years ago since they first began to be used in our gardens about New York ; at first they were to be had at almost every brewery without cost, but the demand has so increased that the price to-day ranges even higher than that of the best stable manure. Aside from its high fertilizing properties, it is excellent for breaking up and pulverizing the soil, and as a top-dressing or mulching, 3i GAEDENING FOE PKOFIT. either to protect from the sun in summer, or froni the frost in winter, it has no equal. From my experience with this fertilizer, I consider it to be of nearly double the value of that of stable manure. It requires to be composted in tl^ same manner as other manures ; it heats rapidly, and must*be either spread regularly over the hog ,yar4, or else turned once) in two weeks to prevent "fire- fang" frfem violent heating. ^ Another valuable ref ase from our manufactories is the shavings and scrapings from horn or whalebone mauu- lactories.j The best way to rewder th^S most available is to compostj;li#m thoroughly witlr hot manure, in the proportion of one ton of shavings to fifteen of manui« ; the heated manure extracts thg oil from the shavings, which is intermingled with the whole. I have on several occasions seen the mixture of five tons of whalebone shavings with onr ordinary stable manure make 1400 per acre difference in the value of the crop ; but of course such manufactories are not common, and it is only in certain localities that this fertilizer can be had. Another valuable fertilizer from manufactories is " sugar house scum," which is composed largely of blood, charcoal, and saccharine refuse ; as it heats violently, instead of being thrown in heaps by itself, it should be composted with equal quantities of soil or muck, and turned frequently, so that the whole is thoroughly mixed ; when thus composted, it makes an excellent ma- nure at twenty tons per acre ; it is best applied by lightly plowing, or deeply harrowing-in. Of concentrated manures, perhaps the best for general purposes is pure Peruvian guano ; this for generai crops, when used without the addition of stable manures, is put on at the rate of from 1,000 to 1,300 pounds per acre ; it IS first pounded to powder, so that it can be regularly sown over the surface after plowing ; it is then thoroughlv harrowed in, and the crop is sown or planted at once.* In MANUEES. 35 my experience, the next best concentrated fertilizer is bone dust, or flour of bone ; in careful experiments with our cpops of cauliflower and cabbage, we applied it in the same manner as guano, but at the rate of nearly 2,000 pounds per acre, and it gave moat satisfactory results, surpassing those of guano, where that had been used at the rate of 1,200 pounds per acre. In applying manures to the soil, we have long ago discovered the great impor- tance of an alternation of different kinds. When I first began business as a market gardener I had opportunities of getting _large quantities of night soil from the scaven- gers of Jersey City ; this was mixed with stable manure, charcoal, sawdust, or any other absorbent most conveni- ent, and applied, so mixed, at the rate of about thirty tons per acre. The crops raised with this manure were enormous, for two or three years, but it gradually began to lose effect, and in five years from the time we began to use it, it required nearly double the weight of this compost to produce even an average crop. I then aban- doned the use of night soil and applied refuse hops instead, at the rate of about sixty tons per acr?, with marked improvement ; but this was for the first and second years onlj', the third year showing a falling off. About this time our prejudices against the use of con- centrated manures for market gardening began to give way, and at first we applied guano together with manure at the rate of 300 pounds per acre, which we found to pay ; and the next season guano was used at the rate of 1,300 pounds per acre with very satisfactory results. Smce then our practice has been a systematic alternation of manures, which I am convinced is of quite as much importance to the production of uniform crops of first •quality, as is the alternation of varieties of the different kinds of vegetables. It is a grave blunder to attempt to grow vegetable crops without the use of manures of the various kinds in S6 GARDENING POli PEOFIT. about the proportions I have named. I never yet saw- soil of any kind that had borne a crop of vegetables that would produce as good a crop the next season without the use of manure, no matter how "rich" the soil may be thoup-ht to 'iK\ An illustration of this came under my ob.jervation a few years ago. One of my neighbors, a market gardener of nearly twenty years' experience, and whose grounds had always been a perfect model of productiveness, had it in prospect to run a sixty-foot street through his grounds. Thinking his land suf- ficiently rich to carry through a crop of Cabbages with- out manure, he thought it useless to waste money by using guano on that portion on which the street was to be, but on each side, sowed guano at the rate of 1,200 pounds per acre, and planted the whole with Early Cabbages. The effect was the most marked I ever saw. Tljat pov- tioii on which the guano had been used sold off readily at $13 per hundred, or about ^1,400 per acre, both price and crop being more than an average — this was the era of high prices — but the portion from which the guano had been withheld, hardly averaged 83 per hundred. The street occupied fully an acre of ground^ so that my friend actually lost over 11,000 in crop by withholding 860 for manure. Another neighbor, whose lease had ouly one year to run, and who also unwisely concluded that it would be foolish to waste manure on his last croj), planted and sowed all without it. The result was, as his exi^erience should have taught him, a crop of inferior quality in every article grown and loss on his eight acres of prob- ably 8a,000 for that season. The comparative value of manures must be regulated by the cost. If rotted stable manure, whether from horses or cows, can be deliwred on the ground at 83 per Ion, it is about as valuable for fertilizing purposes as Peruvian guano at 165 per ton, or pure bono dust at 840 per ton. It is better than cither of these or any other concentrated fertilizer, from the MAKUKES. 37 fact of its mechanical action on the land — that is, its effect, from its light, porous nature, in aerating and pul- verizing the soil. Guano, bone dust, or other fine com- mercial fertilizers act only as such, without in any way assisting to improve what may be called the mechanical condition of the soil. All experienced cultivators know that the first year that land is broken up from sod, if proper culture has been given by thorough plowing and harrowing (pro- vided the land is drained artificially or naturally, so as to be free from water and relieve it from "sourness"), the land is in better condition for any crop than land that has been continuously cropped without a rest. The market gardeners in the vicinity of New York are now so well convinced of this that when twenty acres are under cultivation at least five acres are continually kept in grain, clover, or grass, to be broken up successively every second or third year, so as to bring the land into the condition that nothing else but rotted, jDulverized sod will accomplish. This is done in- cases where land is as valuable as 1500 per acre, experience having proved that with one-quarter of the land "resting under grass" more profit can be made than if the whole were under culture. When the rotation by placing a j)ortinn of the laud under grass cannot be done, then it is absolutely neces- sary to use stable manure, at least to some extent, if the best results, are desired, for continuous crop- ping of the soil. Where concentrated fertilizers only are used, they will not continue to give satisfactory re- sults after the grass roots or other organic matter has passed from the soil, all of which will usually be entirely gone by the third or fourth ye'ar after breaking up. I have long held the opinion that the idea of lands having been permanentl'y exhausted by tobacco or other crops is a fallacy. What gives rise to this belief, I think, is the 38 GARDENING FOS PROFIT. fact that when lands are first broken up from the forest or meadow lands, for throe or four years the organic matter in the soil— the roots of grasses, leaves, etc.— not only serves to Iced the crops, but it keeps the soil in a better state of pulverization, or what might be called aerated condition, than when in the course of cropping for a few years it has passed away. Stable manure best supplies tills want ; but on farm lands away from towns, it is not often that enough can be obtained to have any appreciable effect on the soil, and hence artificial fertiliz- crj are resorted to, which often fail, not from any fault in themselves, but from the fact that, exerting little me- chanical influence on the land, it becomes compacted or sodden, the air cannot get to the roots, and hence failure or partial failure of crop. Thus we see that to have the best results from commercial fertilizers it is of great im- portance to have the land rested by a crop of grain or grass every three or four years. The best known fertilizers of commerce are Peruvian guano and bone dust, though there are numbers of oth- ers, such as fish guano, dry blood fertiUzer, blood and bone fertilizer, with the various brands of superphos- phates, all of more or less value for fertilizing purposes. It is useless to go over the list, and we will confine our- selves to the relative merits of pure Peruvian guano and pure bone dust. Guano at $65 per ton we consider rela- tively equal in value to bone dust at 8^0 per ton, for in the lower priced article we find that we have to increase the quantity to produce the same result. Whatever kind of concentraced fertilizer is used, we find it well repays the labor to prepare it in tiie following manner before it is used on the land : To every bushel of guano or bone dust. add three bush- els of either leaf mold from the woods, well pulverized dry muck, sweepings from a paved street, stable manure so rotted as to be like pulverized mnck, or, if neither of MAJSUEES. 39 these can be obtained, any loamy soil will do ; but in every case the material to mix the fertilizers with must he fairly dry and never in a condition of mud, the mean- ing of the operation being that the material used is to act as a temporary absorbent for the fertilizer. The com- post must be thoroughly mixed, and if guano is used, it being sometimes lumpy, it must be broken up to dust before being mixed with the absorbent. The main object of i^iis operation is for the better sep- aration and division of the fertilizer, so that when ap- plied to the soil it can be more readily distributed. Our experiments have repeatedly shown that this method of using concentrated fertilizers materially increases their value — probably twenty per cent. The mixing should be done a few months previous to spring, and it should, after being mixed, be packed away in barrels and ke23t in some dry shed or cellar until wanted for use. Thus mixed, it is particularly beneficial on lawns or other grass lands. The quantity of concentrated fertilizer to be used is often perplexing to beginners. We give the following as the best rules we know, all derived from our own practice in growing fruits, flowers and vegetables : Taking guano as a basis, we would recommend for all vegetable and fruit crops, if earliness and good quality are desired, the use of not less than 1,200 pounds per acre (an acre contains 4,840 square yards), mixed with two tons of either of the materials before recommended. Of bone dust about one ton per acre should be used, mixed with three tons of soil or of the other materials named. For market garden vegetable crops in the vicinity of New York, this quantity of guano or bone dust is har- rowed in, after twenty-five or thirty tons of stable manure have first been plowed in, so that the actual cost of manuring each acre is not less than $100, and often $150. "When fertilizers are used alone, without being mixed with the absorbent, they should be sown on the soil, after 40 GARDENIXa FOR PROFIT. plowing or spading, about thick enougli to just color t.ie surface, or about as thick as sand or sawdust is strewn on a floor. This quantity is uced broadcast b}' sowing on the ground after plowing and deeply and thoroughly har- rowing it in ; when applied in hills or drills, from 100 to 300 pounds should be used to the acre, according to the distance of these apart, mixing well with the soil. When woU-rotted stable manure is procurable at a cost not to exceed 83 per ton, delivered on the ground, whether from horses or cows, it is preferable to any con- centrated fertilizer. Eotted stable manure, to produce full crops, should be spread on the ground not less than three inches thick (our market gardeners use from fifty to seventy-five tons of well-rotted stable manure per acre, when no concentrated fertilizer is used), and should be thoroughly mixed with the soil by plowing. The manure from the chicken or pigeon house is verv valuable, and when composted as directed for bone dust and gnano, has at least one-third their value. Castor-cril pomace is also valuable in about the same proportion. PouDEETTEisthe nanie given to a commercial fertilizer, the composition of which is night soil, and dried swamp muck or charcoal dust as an absorbent. It is sold at about 812 to $15 per ton, and at that price may be equal in value, if too much of the absorbing material is not used, to bone dust at $40 per ton. Salt has little or no value as a fertilizer, except as a medium of absorbing moisture ; for experience shows that soils impregnated by saline matter are no more fer- tile than those Inland out of the reach of such an atmos- phere. Muck is the name given to a deposit usually larselv composed of vegetable matter, found in swamps or iii hollows in forest lands. Of itself it has usually but little of fertilizing property, but, from its porous nature, wh-u dry, it is one of the best materials to use to mix with other manures as an absorbent. It can be used to great advantage if dug out in winter and piled up in narrow ridges, so that it can be partly dried and ' ' sweetened " in summer. Thus dried, if mixed with stable manure, or, better yet, thrown in layers of three or four inches thick in the cattle or hog yard, where it can be trodden down and incorporated with the manure, the value of the manure thus treated will be nearly doubled. In reply to questions that I receive by the hundred each season, asking whether or not it is worth while to use the so-called special fertilizers claimed to be suited to the wants of particular plants, such as the "Potato Fer- tilizer," "Cabbage Fertilizer," "Sti'awberry Fertilizer," " Eose Fertilizer," etc., I can only give this general an- swer, that while these manures may suit the plants they ave claimed to be " special " for, I have little doubt that either one would suit equally well for the others, or if all were mixed together, the mixture would be found to an- swer the purpose for each kind of crop just as well as if kept separate and applied to the crop it was named for. These hair-splitting distinctions are not recognized to be of any value by one practical farmer or gardener in a hun- dred; for a little experience soon shows that pure bone dust or well-rotted stable manure answers for all crops nearly alike, no matter what they are. These special fertilizers for special crops are gradually increasing in number, so that some dealers now offer fifty kinds, different brands being offered for plants belonging to the same family. There is an ignorant assumption in this, and any culti- vator of ordinary intelligence cannot fail to see that the motive in so doing is to strike as broad a swath as possi- ble, so that a larger number of customers may be reached and a higher price obtained. One of my neighbors called the other day and informed me that his Lettuce crop, in his greenhouse, was failing. 43 GAEUENIXG FOK PROFIT. and asked me what I thought of the "Lettuce Fertilizer" that was offered in a circular that contained some fifty other " specials. " An inquiry developed the fact that he had been keeping his Lettuce crop at a night temperature of sixty-five degrees in January — ^ten to fifteen degrees too high for the welfare of the crop — so that there was Just about as much chance of the special " Lettuce Fertilizer" helping the crop as there would be of giving health to a man in the last stages of consumption hy feeding him beef-steak. I merely mention this incident to show how, and in what manner, the sellers of these special ferti- lizers obtain customers, even among practical gardeners. Lime oe Marl. — I have always held that lime and marl have no direct fertilizing properties in themselves, except so far as they act to correct the acidity of the soil, or to lighten heavy soils, or to give adhesiveness to soils that are too light. In fact, I believe they are valuable for their mechanical effects on almost every soil, unless such as lie along the sea coast, and in some cases a con- siderable distance inland ; on such soils there is no bene- fit to be derived from the application of lime. In apply- ing lime dust — whether from limestone or oyster shells — it should be put on after plowing, at the rate of not less than 100 busliels per acre, and then well harrowed in, so as to thoroughly mix it with the soil for four or five inches below the surface. Gas Lime is often very liberally offered by the gas companies ; it is a dazigerous material and had better never be touched by the market gardener. I well re- member applying it to a piece of ground, which was so poisoned by the noxious gases that it did not regain its fertility for three years. Ootxon-Seed Meal, mixed with one-third of any high grade of phosphate, is almost exclusively used by the market gardeners of Charleston and Savannah, where MANURES. 43 the mixture costs about $30 per ton. Plowed in broad- cast, at the rate of from two to three tons per acre, it is believed to be, for that section, the best and cheapest fertilizer of any kind. Plastee is one of those fertilizers which have a re- markable effect upon some soils, while in other places it has no effect at all. Where the soils are benefited by it, it is of course advisable to use it. Its greatest effect is upon clover, and where clover is used as a means of im- proving land, plaster is indispensable. It is one of the cheapest of all fertilizers and should by all means be used where it is beneficial. Wood Ashes are largely used by farmers as a top- dressing for meadows, spread on at the rate of fifty bushels per acre. The leached ashes that ar^ brought to New York by the boat load, are sold at from fifteen to twenty cents per bushel, and, of late years, some of our gardeners have been using them instead of bone dust or guano as an addition to stable manure, harrowing them in after plowing at the rate of from 150 to 200 bushels per acre ; a lesser quantity (say one half) of unleached ashes would answer the same purpose. Geeen Manueing. — The practice of growing crops for the purpose of plowing them under to fertilize the soil is often turned to very great advantage. To procure an adequate supply of manure is often a very costly pro- cess. But a crop that may be easily grown in a few weeks, and then turned under, may furnish to the soil as much fertilizing matter as eight or ten tons of ma- nure ; and the process may often be repeated two or three times in one year. For instance, if land is plowed in October and sown to rye, the rye may be turned under in May or June, and corn may be planted. This will be in full growth early in August, when it may also be turned under, furnishing ten or twelve tons more of 44 GAEDEXIXG FOE PROFIT. valuiible matter. Tn turning under so tall a crop as com or rye the plow should be run across the rows, and a heavy chain looped fi'om the plow beam, just ahead of the standard, to the land side end of the inner whiffle- tree. This loop drags in the furrow, so as to catch the falling corn or rye, and pulls it down and into the fur- row so that the soil covers it. It should then be smoothed down with the back of the ordmary harrow or by the shortened blades of the Acme Harrow, so as to fill up the crevices, and thus quickly induce the rotting of the green crop. CHAPTER YII. THE USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. We use cold frames for preserving Cauliflower, Cab- bage and Lettuce plants during the winter, and the for- warding of Lettuce and Cucumbers in spring and summer. To make the matter as clear as possible, we will sup- pose that the market gardener, having five or six acres of land, has provided himself with 100 of three by six foot sashes. The Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce plants, vv^hich they are intended to cover in winter, should be sown in the open garden from the 15th to the 20th of September in the latitude of New York ; farther north, earlier; farther south, later. This matter of time of sowing is of vital importance ; for if too early, many of them will run to seed and of course are useless ; again, if sowing is done too late, cold weather sets in and the plants have not time to get strong enough to stand the winter. The Early Jersey Wakefield is the variety used almost exclusively for raising cold frame plants. Our famous "Early Summer Cabbage" ip never so safe to USE AND MANAGEMEKT OF COLD FRAMES. 45 carry over in cold frames, unless, indeed, it is sov/n very late ; for example, when we sow the Wakefield here on the 15th of September, the Early Summer is not sov/n until ten or fifteen days later. Millions of this favorite variety for the South have been lost by running to seed from having been sown too early. On this subject I will give my views at length in another portion of this chapter. When the young Cabbage plants are of sufficient size, which they will be in about a mouth from the time of sowing, they must be repianted in the boxes or frames, to be covered by the sashes as winter advances. The boxes or frames we mse are simply two boards, running parallel, and nailed to posts to secure them in line. The one for the back is ten or twelve inches wide, and that for the front seven or eight inches, to give the sashes, when jolaced upon them, pitch enough to carry off rain, and to better catch the sun's rays. The length of the frame or box may be i-egulated by the jjosition in which it is placed ; a convenient length is fifty or sixty feet, requiring eighteen or twenty sashes. Shelter from the northwest is of great importance, and if the ground is not sheltered naturally, a board fence six feet in height is almost indispensable. The sashes should face south or southeast. Each three by six foot sash will hold five hundred plants of Cabbage or Cauliflower, and about eight hundred of Lettuce. These numbers will determine the proper distance apart for those who have not had experience. It should never be lost sight of that these plants are almost hardy, and consequently will stand severe freezing without injury, but to insure this condition they must be treated as their nature demands ; that is, after planting the Cabbage, Lettuce or Cauli- flower — which will be about the middle or end of Octo- ber — the sashes need not be put on for a month or six weeks after, unless a very cold spell comes for a 46 GAKDENIN^G FOIl PilOFIT. day or two, which sometimes happens ; but if they have to be thus temporarily protected, be careful to strip off the sashes again, so as to harden the plants for cold weather. In cold weather, even on clear winter days, when the thermometer marks fifteen or twenty degrees in the shade, they must be abundantly aired, either by tilting up the sash at the back, or, better still, when the day is mild, by stripping the sash off en- tirely. With this hardening process there is no necessity for any other covering but the sash. In our locality we occasionally have the thei'mometer from five to ten de- grees below zero for a day or two together, yet in all our time we have never used mats, shutters, or any covering except the glass, and I do not think we lose more than two per cent., although in sections where the thermom- eter falls to twenty or thirty degrees below zero, mats or shutters will be necessary. They rarely pass through a winter, however, without having the stems split by the frost, even with us, but that does no injury, provided when planting out in the open field they are so set that the split part is in the ground. Cauliflower is more ten- der than Cabbage or Lettuce, and the sashes must be covered with mats. Some may think that the raising of plants in this manner must involve considerable trouble, but when they are informed that the Cabbage and Let- tuce plants so raised and planted out in March or April, not infrequently bring $600 per acre before the middle of July, giving us time to follow up with Celery for a second crop, it will be seen that the practice is not unprofitable. But we have not yet done with the use of the sashes ; to make. them still available, spare boxes or frames are made, in all respects similar to those in use for the Cab- bage plants. These frames should be covered up durin^ winter with straw or lea,ves in depth sufficient to keep the ground from freezing, so that they may be got at and be m condition to bo planted with Lettuce by the end of USE AND MAKAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 47 February or the first of March. By this time the weather is always mild enough to allow the sashes to be taken ofE from the Cabbage and Lettuce plants (if they have been properly hardened), and they are now transferred to the spare frames to cover and forward the Lettuce. Under each sash we plant fifty Lettuce plants, having the ground first well enriched by digging in about three inches of well-rotted manure. The management of the Lettuce for heading is in all respects similar to tliat used in pre- serving the plants in winter ; the only thing to be at- tended to being to give abundance of air, and on the occasion of rain to remove the sashes entirely, so that the ground may receive a good soaking, which will tend to promote a more rapid and luxuriant growth. The crop of Lettuce is fit for market in about six weeks from time of planting, which is always two or three weeks sooner than that from the open ground. The average price for all planted is about $4 per hundred at whole- sale-, so that again, with little trouble, our crop gives us $3 per sash in six weeks. I believe this second use of the sash is not much prac- ticed outside of this district, most gardeners having the opinion that the winter plants of Cabbage or Lettuce would be injured by their complete exposure to the weather at as early a date as the first of March. In fact, here we have still a few old fogies among us, whose timidity or obstinacy in this matter prevents them from making this double use of their sashes, which there- by causes them an annual loss of $2 per sash, and as some of them have over a thousand sashes the loss is of some magnitude. In my own practice I have made my sashes do double duty in this way for fifteen years ; the number when I first started being fifty, increasing until at one time I had 3,000 sashes in use. Yet in all that time I have only once had my plants so exposed injured, and then 48 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. only a limited number, which I had neglected to suf- ficiently harden by airing. We have still another use of the sashes to detail. , Our Lettuce being cut out by middle of May, we then plant fire or six seeds of the Improved Wliite Spine Cucum- ber in the center of each sash. At that season they come up at once, protected by the coTcring at night. The sashes are left on until the middle of June, when the crop begins to be sold. The management of the Cu- cumber crop as regards airing is hardly different from that of the Lettuce, except in its early stage of growth it requires to be kept warmer. Being a tropical plant, it is very impatient of being chilled, but in warm days airing should never b2 neglected, as the concentration of the sun's rays on the glass would raise the temperature to an extent to injure, if not entirely destroy, the crop. This third use of the sashes I have never yet made so profit- able as the second, because the crop has to compete against Southern grown Cucumbers, although it has al- ways been sufficient to make it well worth the labor. There are a few inen here who make a profitable busi- ness from the use of sashes only, having no ground except that occupied by the frames. In this way the winter crop of Cauliflower or Cabbage plants is sold at an average of $3 per sash in March or April ; the Lettuce at S2 per sash in Maj', and the Cucumbers at $1 per sash in June, making an average of $6 per sash for the season ; and it must be remembered that these are wholesale prices, and that, too, in the market of New York, where there is great competition. There is no doubt that in hundreds of cities and towns of the Union the same use of sashes would double or treble these results. Cold frames are also used for sowing the seeds of Cab- bage, Caviliflower and Lettuce, instead of hot-beds. If the frames are closely shut up and covered at night by mats, the plants will be but little later than those from USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 49 the hot-beds, and are raised -with far less trouble. The time of sowing is about February 1st. In sections of the TOuntry where these plants cannot be set out before May it is useless to raise them in hot-beds. On the other hand, in the Southern States, where in the months of February and March there are no frosts, by adopting the same care in covering up at night, the seeds of Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg-plants, and the sprouts from Sweet Potatoes, can be forwarded with much less trouble in the cold frames than in the hot-bed. I am sometimes asked the question, how much freez- ing and thawing plants of Lettirce, Cabbages, etc., will stand without being destroyed. I have always taken the ground that the freezing and thawing, instead of being injurious, is a necessity for their safety. In doing so I know I run in direct opposition to a large majority of my brethren, but the experience of oyer a quarter of a century, yearly increasing in extent, assures me that I am correct, and I am further confirmed in my opinion by knowing that there is not. a. market gardener in this vicinity but whose practice in the management of cold frames is the same as my own ; though if the question was asked some of them if thawing and freezing did not injure plants, the answer might be in the affirmative, so universally has the dogma been acepted. Again : " How long can frozen plants be kept from the light when covered up with snow ? " Much would depend on atmospheric conditions.: If the plants were hard frozen when the snow covered up the sashes, then they might safely remain three or four weeks thus cov- ered, without light ; but if the ground was not frozen when the snow fell, then the . snow must be removed from the sashes in three or four .days, unless the fall has been so slight that light can get through to the plants. 50 GAKDESriIirG I'OE PROFIT. PROTECTING CLOTH IN LIEU OF SASHES. In many sections of the country it is difficult to get sashes, and with many, too, their cost is such as to make them unattainable. To such the use of this new protect- ing cloth will be a great boon, particularly in the South- ern States, where only a slight protection is needed to ward oH frost for a few nights. In the winter of 1886 millions of Cabbage and Cauliflower plants were lost in Georgia, South Carolina and Florida that might have been saved by the use of this cloth for protection. In our experiments with it the past winter, we found that while the thermometer stood at twenty-five degi'ees above zero, under this covering the temperature was thirty degrees above zero, while under the protection of sashes it was thirty-two degrees, or but two degrees more. All experienced cultivators know that the difference of five degrees in temperature in most oases would save nearly all the plants exposed in the open air from the danger of injury by frost. Could the orange trees of Florida the past winter have been enveloped in protect- ing cloth, I doubt if a bud would have been injured. Of course, in that case, it would have been impractic- able to do so ; but it is easily practicable to protect low- growing plants, such as Cabbage plants or fruiting Straw- berry crops. A gentleman from Florida told me last winter that he has repeatedly saved his crop of Straw- berries — covering an acre while in bloom — from early frost, by the use of ordinary cotton cloth, thereby vastly increasing the value of his crop. This protecting cloth, while being no cheaper than ordinary grades of cotton cloth, has the advantage in being so prepared that it is mildew-proof, and with ordinaiy care will last for five years. It is made in yard widths and can be shaped , for use according to circumstances. Probably the sim- plest plan is to tack it to a light frame three by six USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 51 feet and use it just as sashes are used. Such " sashes," made of protecting cloth, would cost not more than twenty cents each, while glass sashes cost (to say noth- ing of expense in freighting) $2 each. Besides, in the hands of inexperienced cultivators, the protecting cloth is safest, for if this covering is left on in the day-time when the sun is shining, there is comparatively little rise of temperature underneath it, while it is well known that if ventilation of liames covered by glass sashes is not carefully attended to, the crop beneath may be quickly ruined by the sun's rays acting on the glass and raising the temperature. The past spring (beginning about middle of March), we covered a lot of Cabbage plants with the protecting cloth for three weeks^never once taking it off night or day — and the plants were nearly as good as those covered by sashes, where daily attention had been given to ventilation. Not only will this cloth be found most useful in the winter in the Southern States, to guard against sudden snaps of frost, but to such as raise spring plants of Cabbages, Lettuce, Cauliflowers or Tomatoes, requiring protection in spring at the North, it will be found an excellent substitute for sashes. I do not rec- ommend the use of the protecting cloth in lieu of sashes in the winter months ; it would not answer in heavy snow. But for all spring work, from March to June, it will in most cases answer every purpose. SPRING RATSING OP CABBAGE, CAULIFLOWER AND LETTUCE. The question is put to me many hundreds of times every season as to what is the best method to produce plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce for early spring planting. Although we still grow several hun- dred thousands of fall sown plants annually (which are wintered over in cold frames), yet increased experience 52 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. appears to show that plants grown in the manner below described, which we have practiced for the past five years, can be done cheaper, and, at the same time, will produce nearly as good plants as by the old method of wintering over in cold frames. For our latitude, we make our first sowing on February 1st in our greenhouses, where the temperature will aver- age about seventy degrees ; that is, about sixty degrees at night, and about eighty degrees during the day. Where there is not the convenience of a greenhouse, a hot-bed will answer the same purpose. A hot-bed, made with manure, about two feet deep, in a proper manner, pro- duces just about the same temperature and general con- ditions as will a well-appointed greenhouse. AVe find it more convenient to sow the seed in shallow boxes, which are made by cutting the ordinary soap boxes into three pieces, which gives us a depth of about two inches for soil in each box. We use any light, rich soil for the pur- pose, sowing enough seed in each box to produce 1,000 or 1,500 plants, or, if grown in the hot-bed without tbe box, each three by six foot sash should grow about 5,000 plants ; but we find it more convenient to use the boxes than to sow in the soil put direct on the bench of the greenhouse, or on the manure of the hot-bed. The plants sown on February 1 st, in a temperature averaging seventy degrees, will give plants fit to- transi^lant in about three or four weeks. AVe then use the same shallow boxes, putting in the bottom of each about one inch of well- rotted stable manure. Over that we place an incii of any ordinary light, rich soil, smoothing it so as to have it as level as possible. In these boxes, which are fourteen by twenty inches, we put an average of about 150 plants. The boxes are then taken direct to the ordinary cold frames, which, however, have been protected with ma- nure, as it would not do to put the boxes of tender plants on a frozen surface. It is very easy to keep the frost USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 53 out of these cold frames by putting on three or four inches of dry leaves or manure before the soil freezes up, and placing the sash on the frames two or three weeks before they are to be used. In this way they will keep perfectly free from frost, and can be used at any time during the winter. The boxes should be placed as close to each other in the cold frames as they will stand ; about eight boxes fills a sash, thus holding about 1,300 plants. If the snn is bright, it is well to shade them for a few days until they take root ; but the most important point of all is to cover the sashes with straw mats at night so securely that no frost will reach them in the cold frames. , For the past three years we have each sea- son grown about half a million of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants in this way, and have had no trouble to keep them from freezing by carefully matting up, epen when the thermometer has reached zero. Plants sown on the 1st of February are transplanted into the Ijoxes abont the 1st of March, and are at once placed in the cold frames, and will be fine to transplant to the open ground any time after the 1st of April if they have been carefully attended to by watering, airing and protection from frost. As I have before said, these dates refer particularly to the vicinity of New York City, where we can usually plant out in the open ground all kinds of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants about April 1st. If in districts where they cannot be planted out sooner than the middle of April, then the sowing- should not be made before -the loth of February, and the process of transplanting, etc., gone through as before stated, so that the plants will be in condition to set in the open" ground by the 15th of April. If in sections where Cabbages cannot be planted in the open ground before the 1st of May, then the sowing should be delayed until nearly the Ist of March, and the process of trans- planting in the frames the same. There are some sec- 54 GARDENING POR PROFIT. tions in the Southern States, of course, where these di- rections would not apply, where the sowing would need to be done as early, perhaps, as the 1st of December ; and as it takes about two months from the time of sowing until they are fit to plant in the field, plants sown the 1st of December in Southern States would be fit to set out by February 1st. It will be understood that there would be no necessity for sowing in hot-bed or green- house in such a climate as Florida. The protection of glass in an ordinary cold frame would give about the same average of temperature there in the winter months as we would have in the north by artificial heat. In most of the Southern States, in my o])inion, the protect- ing cloth before alluded to would answer all the pur- poses of glass sashes — and even in the North, when mats are used, "sashes" made of protecting cloth might be used instead of glass. There is another and simpler process of raising Cabbage plants ; that is, by sowing the seed in the cold frames direct. This is done here usually about the 15th of February or 1st of March, in as warm and sheltered a place as can be found for the frames. I saw one of my neighbors have a fine lot grown in that way last year. He hai taken a eroji of Head Lettuce out of his frames about the loth of February, dug and raked the ground and sowed his Cabbage seeds in rows about five inches apart, sowing enough to give about 1,500 plants irnder each three by six sash. He matted up carefully, giving ventilation to the sashes whenever the weather would permit, and about the 1st of April he had fine plants, fit to go into the open grounl right from where they were sown ; not quite so good, of course, as if they had been transplanted, but still much better than the ordinary hot-bed plants, which are generally too much drawn and too tender to stand cold weather until quite late in the season. If care is used to so cover up these cold frames when the plants USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD PEAMES. 55 haye been transplanted in the boxes, or sown as described above, there is hardly a chance but that excellent plants will be produced, as there is far less risk in the handling of them than those from the hot-bed. A very important point to always observe is, to cover them so that the frost will not get to tliem. In some sections it might be necessary to use a light shutter placed over the sash, and then throw over them the heavy straw mats, at the same time covering up the alleys between the frames to the top of the board with dry leaves or ordinary stable manure, so as to prevent the frost striking through the boards into the plants. It is difficult to explain these operations as clearly by writing as we would like, and if any of our customers would take the time to come and see our opera- tions when we are at work, during the months of Febru- ary or March, they can get a better knowledge by see- ing them done on the spot. Our greenhouses and grounds are within forty minutes' time of our store, at Nos. 35 and 37 Cortlandt Street, New York, and if any one wish- ing to see our operations will call there, they will be given a card giving directions how to reach the place, which is located on the Jersey City Heights, two miles from the Jersey City Ferry. 56 GAEDEisrnsra roE profit. CHAPTEK VIII. FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. Although we do not consider hot-beds so convenient or even economical in the long run as the forcing-houses, elsewhere described, yet, as beginners in the business are usually not over-supplied with mean^, and as hot-beds are to be had at much less first cost than the forcing-houses, we give a description of their formation and management. The most convenient sash for the hot-bed is the three by six foot sash, made out of one inch and a half pine, cost- ing here, at present prices, when painted and glazed, from $2 to $3 each, according to quality. The frame for the hot-bed is usually made movable, in lengths which three sashes will cover, making, when complete, a box-like structure, nine feet long (the width of three sashes, three feet wide), and six feet wide (the length of the sashes) ; at the bottom or lower part the plank should be fifteen or eighteen inches high ; the back or top, twenty-four inches ; so that when the sashes are placed on, it will give them the necessary angle to receive the sun's rays and throw off the rain. The sashes should be made as tight fitting as they will easily work, and the plank forming the sides of the box should be high enough to cover the thickness of the sash, in order to pre- vent the cold air from penetrating. The hot-bed (formed on the surface) on which the frame and sashes are placed should not be less than four feet in depth of hot manure, and should project beyond the frame-work at least twelve inches on all sides ; that is, if the three sash-frame work measures six feet by nine, the hot-bed on which it is to be placed should be made eight feet by eleven. This is one style of hot-bed frame, and the one most commonly used in private gardens ; but in our market gardens, where a large surface is. used, our necessities compel us FOEHATION" AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 57 to adopt a far more economical mode, both in tlie cost of the frame-work and heating material. This is done somewhat after the manner adopted for cold frame?. Parallel excavations are made, usually in lengths of sixty feet, two and a half feet deep, and six feet wide ; the sides of these pits are boarded up with any rough board- ing, nailed to posts, and raised above the surface eighteen inches at the back and twelve inches at front. Strips are stretched across, on which the sashes rest, wide enough to receive the edges of the two sashes where they meet, and allow of a piece of about an inch in width between them, so that the sash can be shoved backward and for- ward and be kept in place in giving air, etc. The heating material to form the hot-bed should be horse dung, fresh from the stables, adding to which, when accessible, about one-half its bulk of leaves from the woods. The manure and leaves should be well mixed and trodden down in successive layers, forming a conical heap, large enough to generate fermentation in severe winter weather. Care must be taken that bhe material is not allowed to lie scattered and get frozen, else great delay will ensue before heat can be gensrated. A few days after the pile has been thrown together, and a lively fermentation has taken place, which will be indicated by the escape of steam from the heap, it should be again turned over and carefully shaken out, formed again into a pile, and" left until the second fermentation occurs, which will be usually in two or three days. It may now be placed in the pit, or on the surface for the hot-bed already alluded to, being regularly beaten down by the back of the fork, and trodden so that it is uniformly of the same solidity, and to the required depth, two and a half feet. The sashes are now placed on the frames and kept close until the heat rises ; at this time a thermom- eter, plunged in the heating material, should indicate about 100 degrees but this is too hot for almost any veg- 58 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. etable growth, and besides the rank steam given out by the fermentation should be allowed to escape before operations of sowing or planting begin. Beginners are very apt to be impatient in the matter of hot-beds, and often lose the first crop by planting or sowing before the violent heat has subsided, which it generally will do in about three days, if the heating material has been suffi- ciently prepared. As soon as the thermometer in the frame recedes to ninety degrees, soil should be placed on to the depth of five or six inches. This soil must be previously prepared, of one-third well-rotted manure (or, if procurable, rotted refuse hops from breweries), and two-thirds good loam, spread regularly over the surface of the manure in the hot-bed. We use hot-beds for various purposes. One of the most important uses is the forcing of Lettuce ; this is planted in the hot-beds (from plants grown in the cold frames), fifty under each sash, the first crop by second week in January ; it is covered at night by straw mats, and is usually marketable by the first of March. At that season Lettuce is always scarce, and will average, if properly grown, $6 per hundred, or 63 per sash. The crop is cut out by the first week in March, giving plenty of time to plant the same bed again with Lettuce ; but now it is no longer a hot-bed, for by this time the heat from the dung is exhausted, and it is treated exactly as described in the chapter on Cold Frames. Another use for the hot-bed is the raising of Tomato, and Egg, and Pepper plants. The bed should be pre- pared for these not sooner than the second week in March, with the temperature about the same as before described. In sowing, it is well to cover the seed, not more than a quarter of an inch, with some very light mold ; nothing is better than leaf mold and sand, patting it gently with the back of the spade. From the time the seed is sown, attention to airing, during the hot part of FORMATIOX AST) MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 59 the day, and covering up at night, is essential, and also that the soil be never allowed to get dry. Water, how- ever, must be applied with Judgment, as there is just as much danger from soaking the soil too much. Water should be applied with a fine rose watering pot, and if the water is heated to a temperature of eighty or ninety degrees, all the better. The temperature at night may range from fifty-five to sixty-five degrees, and during the day from seventy to eighty degrees. As soon as the seedling plants are an inch or two high, which will be in four or five weeks, they must be taken up and re-planted in a more extensive hot-bed, for they now require room. Tomatoes should be planted of a width to give seventy- five or 100 in each sash. Pepper and Egg Plants do better if planted in small flower pots (three-inch), as they are more difficult to transplant ; they may now also be kept a little closer in the hot-bed than the Tomatoes, as they require more heat. After transplanting, great care is necessary that they always be immediately watered, and shaded from the sun until they have struck root, which will be in two or three days after transplanting. The hot-bed is also the medium for procuring us Cab- bage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants for early outside planting,, when not convenient to winter them over as described in the uses of cold frames. The seeds of these are sown about the last week in February, are treated in all respects as regards covering up at night as the Toma- toes, etc., but, being plants of greater hardiness, require more air during the day. They will be fit to plant in the open garden by the middle of April. The beds they are taken from are usually employed for re-planting Tomatoes, which it is not safe to plant in the open ground here before the middle of May. A more detailed ac- count of how to raise Cauliflower and Lettuce plants will be found in the Chapter under that head. 60 gaedejSTING fob peofit. Sweet Potato plants are almost universally raised in hot-beds ; but, as this is a plant that luxuriates in a high temperature, the hot-bed should not be formed to start them until the middle of April. The soil should be a mixture of sand and leaf mold, laid on of the usual thickness on the hor-bed, six inches. The roots are placed close together, and tlie same sandj compost silted over them to the depth of two inches. Seme split the large ones lengthwise and place them flat side down. They should not be watered until they start to grow. They are fit to plant out about six weeks after starting. Two most essential points in working hot-beds are in covering up at night and in giving air during the day. It often happens that a few mild nights in March or April delude us into the belief that all the cold weather is over, and the covering up is in consequence either care- lessly performed or abandoned. Every season shows us scores of victims to this mistake, who by one cold night lose the whole labors of the season. It is always safest to cover up tender i)lants, such as Tomatoes, Sweet Po- tatoes, etc., until the 10th of May in this latitude, aud the more hardy plants, such as Cabbage, to the 1st of April, when raised in hot-beds. Even if there is no dan- ger from freezing, it will give a more uniforni tempera- ture; and consequently conduce to a more healthy growth. The want of close attention in airing is equally danger- ous. Often an hour's delay in raising the sashes will result in the scorching up of the whole contents of the hot-bed, and irregularity of airing will always produce "drawn" and spindling plants, even when they arc -not entirely killed. The thermometer is the only saie guide, and should be regularly consulted, and whenever it indi- cates seventy-five degrees, it is safe to admit more or less of the outer air, proportioned of course to the condition of the atmosphere. If there be bright sunshine and cold wind, very little will suiHce ; if calm, mild, and sunny, FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 61 admit larger quantities. If the days are warm, say sixty in the shade, ia March or April, the sashes covering Cabbage, Cauliflower or Lettuce plants may be stripped , entirely off, and also from Tomatoes in April and May when the thermometer is at seventy degrees in the shade, covering up at night, of course. Coverings foe Protection Against Frost. — To cover up hot-bed sashes we use either light pine shutters or straw mats. The shutters are made the exact size of the sash. There is no necessity of their being more than JTlg. 5.— MAKING A &TBAW-MAT. half an inch in thickness, as that is quite as efEective in keeping out the cold as two inches would be, and they are much cheaper and more convenient to handle. Straw mats are, however, by far the warmest covering, and in hot-bed. culture are almost indispensable. They are al- ways made at home, during wet days or in stormy weather in Avinter. The manner of making them is very simple, and will readily be learned at the first attempt. The 63 GAR])ESINCJ FOE PROFIT. " uprights " or warps are formed of five strands of a tarred string known as "marline." These are tightly strained ten inches apart by being attached to five strong nails at bottom of a wall, corresponding with the same number seven feet from the bottom. Against these strings (beginning at the bottom) are laid small hand- f als of rye straw, the butt ends out, as long and straight as can be procured. This is secnred to the uprights by a. lighter kind of tarred string by taking a single turn around the upright and the straw, and so continued un- til the mat is finished. Some use a frame to which the strings forming the warp are attached, as shown in figure 5. This allows the operator to have his work upright or horizontal, as may be most convenient. Two work- men will make about five mats in a day. AVhen fin- ished, the mats should be seven feet in length and four and a half feet in width, two being sufficient to cover three sashes. The reason for having them made one foot longer than the sash is that there may be six inches to overlap at top and bottom, which are the most necessary points to secure from frost. In making the^e mats they may be constructed of sedge from the marshes or salt meadow hay when rye straw cannot be procured. It is important, however, that they may be made as light as possible, one inch in thickness being quite suf- ficient. By care in handling them, these mats will last for six or eight years. rORCING-PITS OR GRBEKHOUSES. 63 CHAPTER IX. FORCING-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. In another chapter it will be found that we now rec- ommend using wider greenhouses with fixed roofs for growing vegetables, but as many haye loose sashes that they may wish to utilize in constructing greenhouses, we will still retain the description given in the earlier edi- tions of this work. Forcing-pits and greenhouses of the style about to be described, whenever the greater expense in their erection is not a consideration, are, in our experience, far supe- rior, and in the course of five or six years more economi- cal for all purposes of forcing or forwarding vegetables than the hot-bed or cold frame. Figure 6 represents the end section and ground plan of the style we have in use, and which may be adapted to any plant that requires artificial heat and protection of glass. The pits repre- sented by this plan are 100 feet in length, and each eleven feet wide inside. The heating is accomplished by one of Hitching's patent boilers, C, heating about 1,300 feet of four-inch pipe. The glass roof, E, is formed of portable sashes, six by three feet. Each alternate sash is screwed down, the others being movable, so as to give adundance of air. The movable sash is elevated, to ad- mit air, by a flat iron bar fifteen inches long, attached to the sash by a staple. Into this bar is punched three holes, so as to regulate the admission of the air as re- quired. When the sash is shut down the bar is hooked on to a pin which secures it in place, so that the sash can- not be moved by wind. I am thus particular in describ- ing what may seem a simple matter, but this system of airing is not common, and we made some stupid blunders before we hit on our present plan, which is cheap, simple 64 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. FilJ. 6.— BND SEOTIO:* AND GROUND PLAN OF FOSOING-PITS HEATBD BT ■n'ATEK PIPES. FOKCING-PITS OR GKEEH'HOUSES. ' 65 and very efEective. The movable sash is not hinged at the bottom, but is held in place by two small plates of iron screwed on the gutter plate. The ridge-poles are cut out of the shape shown at J, and the sashes lie on the shoulder. The interior arrangement of the pits will be easily understood by the end section. G shows the bench or table as it is completed, which is filled with five or six inches of soil, in which the Lettuce, etc., are to be grown. This shows the boxing-in of the pipes, D, to give "bottom heat" to the cnttings, seeds or plants that are placed on the bench ; but on the sides of the bench, along the walk, one plank ist liinged throughout the house, so that it may be let dowh'when required and permit the escape of heat into the' greenhouse. The walks through the house, K, are two feet wide. A brick shed. A, covers the boiler-pit, F, and is at- taehed to the north end of the pits. Besides breaking the wind at this vulnerable point, we find this shed a mosi; excellent place for many purposes, as it is kept from freezing by the heat that escapes from the boiler- pit, which would otherwise be lost. This heat may be turned to a very profitable account in forcing Mush- rooms or Ehubarb, if desired for that purpose. The system of attaching three pits together is now almost universally adopted by commercial gardeners in all houses erected during the past twenty-five years in the neighborhood of New York ; it has great advantages over the detached system, being less expensive in heating, more saving of space, and, above all, far more economical in cost of construction. I prefer having only three to- gether, for the reason that when we have the snow to clear away it is quickly done by being shoveled from the two valleys or furrows over the ridges ; although we have one grower in this neighborhood who has twelve con- nected houses, and finds but little trouble -with snow. Our snows being mostly from the north, the shed breaks 66 GAKDENING FOR PROFIT. them off in a great measure, and what blows over blows mostly off through the valley between the sashes. The water from the gut- ter is led into a cistern, at the south end of the greenhouses, of a ciipaoity of not less than 3,000 cubic feet — if .1,000, all the better ; to this is connected a Douglas Force Pump, figure 7, with 150 feet of oue and a lialf inch liose, and to the end of tlie hose is attached a heavy sprinkler. One man pumps, and another reg- ulates the water and sprinkles it over the phmts. ily establishment in 1866 contained over an acre of glass, and yet. by this labor-saving arrange- ment, all the plants were thoroughly drenched witli Avatcr by two men in four hours. Before adopting this method of watering, at least four of the hands were employed the whole day during the spring months in watering, and then the work was not done half so well. There is nothing that I have ever done, connected with horticultural operations, that lias been so entirely satisfactory as this Fig. 7. DOUGLAS FORCE PUMP. FORCING-PITS OK GKBENHOUSES. 67 method of watering. Now, 1886, we.are fortunate enough to have the city water, and can drench four acres of plants grown under glass in ten hours. In these pits may be propagated and grown Roses and all kinds of greenhouse and bedding plants of every de- scription, in .the best possible manner. But as our pres- ent purpose is only with vegetables, I will endeavor to describe our mode of operations with some of these. Lettuce, from the great quantities consumed in all large cities, is now, and will be likely to be, one of the most profitable vegetables to force, for the reason that from its soft and bulky character it cannot be so safely ot cheaply shipped from the South as many otlier kinds of vege- tables. AVe begin, for our first crop, by sowing the seed about the 20th of August, in the open ground, of the Boston Market, Black-Seeded Butter and Curled Simpson sorts, using by far the greatest proportion of the first named, as it forms a solid head quicker and can be planted closer. These are planted on the benches of the forcing-house in five or six weeks after, at about six or eight inches apart each way, on well enriched soil, placed on the benches to the depth of five or six inches. At this season no "forcing" is required, and the sashes should be kept raised to admit air, night and day, until frosts begin to be severe ; then they should be shut up at night, but no fire heat should be applied until the weather has been severe enough to indicate thirty-eight or forty degrees inside the pits, and even then very slightly, for if they can be brought to maturity at this season without the temperature exceeding fifty degrees at night (by fire heat), the crop will be all the better. The great thing in forcing all plants of this hardy nature being to avoid a high temperature, the temperature when steady firing is begun in the winter months, should average fifty degrees as near as possible. Of late years, Lettuce plants, when grown under glass, 68 GAEDENING FOE PEOFIT. have occasionally become affected by a species of mildew or rust, which, beginning in the center of the plant, quickly spreads over the whole and destroys it. I am not certain of the cause and can ofEer no cure — except to advise that great care should be taken to have the plants grown freely and without any sudden check by chilling or by the extremes of drouth and moisture. We find in the culture of plants under glass that some species are particularly sensitive to such checks — some varieties of the Eose, for instance, if, when in a particular condition of growth, the temperature for a few hours is reduced from sixty-iive to forty degrees at night, or if a frosty southeast wind is allowed to play on the leaves for even ten minutes, or if allowed to dry so that the plant wilts, mildew will to a certainty be developed in twenty-four hours. The Verbena, Heliotrope and Petunia, when subjected to ill usage, become badly rusted. Therefore, I am inclined to think that the Lettuce disease is also caused by some ill usage at some period of its growth, for we find that it is rarely seen when the crop is grown in the open ground in spring or summer. Tlie prevent- ive suggested is that plants to be forced should be pre- pared so carefully that no sudden check is given, and also that the soil used on the benches be fresh, and the manure used be thoroughly rotted and well mixed through the soil. To Check the Aphis or Geeestflt. — Fumigating with tobacco should be done twice each week, beginning the very day the plants are planted in the bench. In fumigating we use refuse tobacco stems, about two pounds (dry) for every 1,000 square feet of glass, damping, how- ever, before using, so as to get the greatest amount of smoke. For fuller particulars on this head see chapter on "Wide Greenhouses for Forcing Vegetables." The first crop is ready about November 1st, and is cut off and sold in two weeks ; the soil on the benches is FOECING-PITS OE GEEENHOUSES. 69 slightly manured, dug up, and again planted (from plants sown in cold frames, or in boxes in the same pit) about September 30th. This second, or winter crop, requires more attention in growing, both in firing, watering, and airing, as it matures about January 1st, and consequently has had to be cared for during a cold part of the year. The third crop, treated exactly as the second, is planted as soon as the other is cut off, and matures about April 1st. We now vary the use of the pit, by planting at distances of about three feet apart along the center of the bench, i)lants of the White Spine Cucumber, from seed sown about April 1st, in a corner of the pit that has been kept closer and warmer than that for the Lettuce ; these are planted in pots about three inches in diametei", and by the time the benches are cleared in May are fine strong plants, that give a full crop during the month of June — fully a month sooner than from the open ground. The combined value of these four crops will average about $400, for a structure 100 feet in length by eleven feet in width. The estimated expense of cultivation is :' Interest on $700, cost of constr action, at 10 per cent. $ 70.00 Coal, five tons -- 30.00 Labor, Manure, etc 100.00 $200.00 Eeoeipts _ - 400.00 Net Profit $200.00 These forcing-pits are likewise used for starting seeds of Tomato, Egg, Pepper, Cabbage, and Caulifl.ower, and sprouting Sweet Potatoes, which is done with far less risk and in a much better manner than can be accomplished by the hot-bed. One great advantage is, that by being able to walk inside of them, these pits are accessible in all weathers, while with the hot-bed or frames we are in winter often debarred from examination for whole days together. 70 GARDENIlfG FOR PROFIT. Ab present prices, in this locality, these pits cost about $7 per lineal foot, everything complete, put up in the way indicated by the plan in a plain substantial manner. But those whose circumstances do not admit of the expense of heating by hot water (which is nearly half the cost of the whole), may init up structures of exactly the same character, and heat them by the common smoke flue at an expense of from $4 to S^o per lineal foot, in the man- ner shown by tlie jilaii, figure 8. It will be seen by this sketch that two flues only are used for the three pits, each passing fli'st up under the bench on the outside houses, is carried along the end and returned through tlie middle houses ; this equalizers the tomperature in all three, for the outside houses get only one run of the flue, but it being directly from the fire gives about the same heat to the outside houses as two runs in the middle house, which, being a greater distance from the fire, arc much colder. Three attaclied houses, heated thus, should not be over fifty feet long in this latitude. South- ward they may be sixty feet and northward forty feet. Peculiarities of locality have much to do with the heat- ing ; in positions particularly sheltered from the north- west, the same amount of flue will heat sixty feet quite as easily as in exposed places it will heat forty. The proper way of constructing the furnace and flue is of im- portance enough to require a description, which is given at length on page 87. • As far as possible, let the'instruc- tions there given be followed to the letter, as they are such as long and very extensive experience m the use of flues for greenhouse heating has shown to be such as rarely fail to give the very best results. Twenty-five years ago nearly all the greenhouses used for commercial purposes were heated by flues. In my own practice I used no other mode of heating until 18G0, and grew plants quite as well there as we do to-day. One of the largest rose- growing firms in this country still uses flues only, with FORCIN-G-PITS OB GREEN"HOUSES. 1 T d tl rp Fig. 8.— END-SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FOBCJIKQ-PITS HEATED BY FLDE. 73 GARDEIirilirG FOR PEOFIT. results that have been such as to make their business a complete success. Still, whenever it can be afforded, there is no question that hot water or steam is the best method of heating greenhouses. In the plan and section on the preceding page, A is the shed enclosing the fur- naces, C G, from which pass the flues, D, in the direc- tion shown by the arrows to the chimneys, L. The benches are not shown here, but they are arranged as in figure 6. RBEBlSrHOUSES FOE FOKCIiTG VEGETABLES. :3 CHAPTEK Z. WIDE GREENHOUSES FOR FORCING VEGETABLE CROPS. Since ''Gardening for Profit " was first written, larger experi- ence has shown that greenhouse structures for forcing vegetables cannot only be erected cheaper when made twenty or twenty- two feet wide, instead of ten or eleven fee.t as then in use, but from the larger volume of air they contain, which when once heated better resists the cold outer air, less artificial heat is necessary. So well convinced were we of the advantages of the wider structure, that six years ago we removed all our old eleven foot houses (covering- nearly an acre in glass) and re- placed them with greenhouses averaging twenty feet wide by 100 feet in length. John Hud- son, of Jersey City, !N"ew Jersey, one of the most successful of all our market gardeners in the vicinity of New York, con- structed, the past season, six greenhouses, each 1 50 feet long by twenty-two feet wide, plans of which are given in figures 9 and 10. The cost of these greenhouses complete, with ven- tilating apparatus, heating, benches, etc.. was about SIO.OOO. 1$; II !l u GAKDElflNG FOR PROFIT. or about $10 per running foot. The structure is very simple. The walls front and rear are conBtructed of cedar posts, about five to six inches in diameter, placed four feet apart and sunk three feet in the ground. On the outside of these arc nailed rough hemlock boards, against which a layer of asphalt or tarred paper is tacked, over which is nailed the ordinary weather boarding. Such a wall will resist cold better than an eight-inch brick wall, and will last twenty-five years if kept painted. A very common error is to build the wooden wall of a green- house hollow and fill the space with sawdust. This should never bo done, as it is move expensive, and is by no means so good as the plan here given. It will be Fig. 10. — OROSS-SEOTION OF FOECIKG-HOUSE. seen by the engraving, figure 10, that these greenhouses of Mr. Hudson's are heated with hot water, the six O's in the engraving representing six runs of four-inch pipe, which is sufficient to give a night temperature of foity- flve or fifty degrees when the thermometer is ten below zero, which is a sufficient night temperature in the win- ter months for growing such crops as Lettuce and Rad- ishes. Of course in the day-time, when the sun shines, the temperature of such a house will run fifteen or twenty degrees higher ; and ventilation should not be given until the temperature reaches seventy degrees. The great point to be considered in forcing crops of Lettuce or Radishes in greenhouses is, if possible, not to let the, night tempera- ture exceed fifty degrees. Of course this cannot be helped GREES"HOUSES FOR FORCING VEGETABLES. T.") in the fall months, when the temperature outsids is often much higher than fifty at night ; but in such cases, dur- ing the months of October and November, the ventilating sashes should be left up so as to keep the temperature at night as low as practicable. Often the entire first crops of Lettuce are lost for want of this precaution. Further experience has also taught us the necessity of using glass of a larger size. The size most used is twelve by sixteen, put in the twelve inch way. The object of the larger glass is to obtain the greatest amount of liglit. In glaz- Fig. 11. — IMPEOVED METHOD OF GLAZING. ing, the method now almost universally adojited is to bed the glass in putty and tack it on the upper side with large glazing points, using no putty on top. The glazing points are triangular, one corner of which is turned down, so that when it is driven in it fits against the lower edge of each pane and prevents it from slipping down. A great mistake is often made in giving the glass too m.uch lap. It should just be given enough to cover the edge Of the pane below from one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch. If given much more the water gets between the panes and when it freezes cracks the glass. It has been found that when the glass lies on the sash- bars thus imbedded, the putty soon rots or wears out. 76 GARUEJiTING FOR PROFIT. and water gets in, and not only loosens the glass, but rots the bar as well. A most simple plan to obviate this is to pour along the Junction of the bar with the glass a thin line of white lead in oil, over which is shaken diy white sand. This hardens and makes a cement that effectually checks all leakage. It is quickly done. The engraving, iigure 11, shows how the portable sash is held and the application made from the oil-can containing the thin white lead. I have seen glass so cemented that has stood for ten years still in perfect order, and it looked as if it would stand for ten years more without further re- pair. This plan, which is but little known as yet, is of the greatest importance. Had I known of it thirty years ago, I would have saved many thousands of dollars in re- pairing, besides having the plants under this water-tight glazing in better condition. It will be seen that two of the hot water pipes are placed under the front bench. The other four are placed two on each walk. The front bench, four feet wide, is constructed so that it will hold five or six inches in depth of soil ; but the middle or main bench, which is thirteen feet wide, requires to be walled up to a height of two feet (see plan) and filled up to the top with soil. The soil best fitted for the growing of Lettuce is five parts good, strong, fresh loam to one part well-rotted cow dung. I will give, as nearly as I can, our manner of operating. The first sowing of Lettuce (which is mainly the Boston Market variety), made in the open ground about the 20th of August, will be large enough to be set in the green- house benches (at six or seven inches apart each way), by the 20th of September, and will without fire heat give fine heads by the first of November. For the second succession, sowings are still made outside about tlie 20th of September, to replant the space where the first crop has been cut out by the first week in November. As the season is now getting colder the crop planted by the first GEEENHOUSES EOR FORCIlirG VEGETABLES. 77 of November will not be fit for market until about the Christmas Holidays, at which time it usually sells well. For the third crop, to be planted in January, the plants made by the sowing on the 20th of September should be used. This crop, which has to be grown in midwinter, will not be ready, if planted the first or second week in January, until about the first of April. One of the greatest pests in growing Lettuce is the Green Ply or Aphis, and the remedy must be preventive, for if it once gets a foothold on the growing plant, it can- not be destroyed. From its operations being mainly on the under side of the leaves, nothing can reach it ; con- sequently every insect must be destroyed before planting. Tobacco in any form is destructive to it. So before planting let the surface of the soil be sown over with tobacco dust, and also let the young plants be rinsed in water wherein tobacco stems have been steeped long enough to give it the color of strong tea. By using these precautions there is little danger that the Lettuce will be attacked by the insect, although, as a further measure of precaution, it will be well to strew the paths with refiise tobacco stems, which will make a complete anti- dote against the Aphis. There is another disease often aflEecting Lettuce, with which, however, it is not so easy to cope. It is first seen by the leaves hardening and spotting brownish red, then gradually decaying towards the center of the plant until it partly destroys it. The cause seems to be anything that gives the plant a check — any too sudden cliange of temperature, too much dry- ness or too much moisture. There is, I think, no remedy after the disease has once started, so our efforts must be for prevention. (See page 68). Mr. Hudson has used some of his greenhouses for growing the Early Round Dark Red and the Small- Topped Forcing Radish, which he finds better suit- able for forcing than any other. These are first sown .,K,Mn+ ^-l^o firot TOOplr iTi Octoher. succession sowins-s beinff 78 GARDENING FOB PROFIT. made on the same ground .is each crop is marketed, which, according to the season, is from four to six weeks from the time of sowing, five crops usually being obtained by the middle of May. The seed is sown thinly in rows three or four inches apart, and the radishes thinned out when an inch high to two inches between the plants. After a crop of early Lettuce and Eadishes has been mar- keted (about the middle of March), the benches are often planted with Snowball Cauliflower at twelve or fourteen inches apart each way, which is marketed about the end of May, or two weeks before the outdoor crop is ready. Another, and very often profitable, use is made of these forcing greenhouses by packing large clumps of roots of Khubarb or Asparagus, lifted so as to leave the soil still adhering to the roots. These clumps can be set as close as they can be packed, about the middle of December, under the front bench, as they require no light, and will be found to be very profitable, the only cost being the roots, which can easily be raised, where ground is j)lenti- f ul, in the open field, by sowing the seed in rows eighteen inches apart, and thinning out to a foot between the plants. It requires three years, however, to grow roots of Ehubarb large enough to force, and four years for Asparagus. There are often cases where old beds must be removed, where the roots, instead of being thrown away, would give, by being closely jammed together under a greenhouse bench, a product of about fifty cents per square foot, if sold any time before April. It is not easy to estimate the profits on such an invest- ment in forcing greenhouses for vegetable crops, as so much depends on what the market demands. Of course, all the products in such a market as New York are sold at wholesale, and not infrequently pass through several different hands before reaching the consumer ; but even thus sold, it is safe to say that, with fair average culture, such crops at wholesale rates will pay a clear net profit of GREENHOUSES FOB FORCING VEGETABLES. 79 thirty per cent, annually ; while there is but little doubt that if the consumer could be reached direct, at least twice that amount could be realized. The b'u^iness is a particularly pleasant one, and is a great advantage, in .all respects, over the hot-bed system, as one has complete control over the greenhouse tempera- ture, both by night and by day, if the heating and ven- tilating apparatus have been properly constructed. These greenhouses are also well adapted for raising all kinds oi vegetable plants. For the past six years nearly all our Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce and Tomato plants have been raised in such gi'eenhouses at far less expense than in tlie old-fashioned hot-beds. When the expense of hot water apparatus cannot be entertained, the same style of greenhouse can be heated by the horizontal smoke flue, . costing little more than half as much as the hot water apparatus, as the latter is about one-half of the entire cost of the construction of such houses. FORCING CUCUMBERS. The wide greenhouses or forcing-houses, which we have described as being used by Mr. Hudson for forcing Lettuce, Radishes and Cauliflower, can also be made equally available for forcing Cucumbers, either during the entire winter and spring season, or to be used to suc- ceed the last crops of Radishes or Lettuce in spring. If wanted for the forcing of Cucumbers during the fall sea- son, the seed should be sown in the greenhouse about October 1st in small pots, three or four seeds in each, thinning out to one strong plant. These, in thirty days, will have become' sufficiently strong to plant out at twenty to twenty-four inches apart on the south side of the bench, one row only. A trellis of galvanized iron wire is made with about a nine-inch mesh, diamond shaped. This, on the middle bench, should be kept two feet from the glass, but on the front bench it can only be kept one 80 GARDE^riNG FOE PEOFIT. foot from the glass, owing to its nearness to the sashes. The depth of soil should be, if on raised wooden benches, about five or six inches; if on the solid center bed, eighteen inches to two feet. The soil shoald be a sandy loam, with one-fifth well-rotted cow manure. The night tempera- ture in the forcing-house for the fall, winter and spring months for cucumbers, should range as near as possible from sixty to sixty-five degrees, with a temperature on bright days of from ten to fifteen degrees higher, giving ventilation at all reasonable times. Cucumbers delight in a moist atmosphere, and whenever the weather is bright and clear, water should be sprinkled on the pipes, walks and under the benches. A dry atmosphere is cer- tain to develop the Ked Spider, which is fatal to success. It may also be here stated, — ^if Cucumbers are to be; forced during the winter months, that to keep up the necessary high temperature eight rilns of four-inch pipes will be required in a greenhouse twenty feet wide, instead of six, as recommended for Lettuce and Eadishes, though, when grown only to succeed the Lettuce or Eadish crop in spring, which is usually the- case, the six runs of pipes at that season will be sufficient. Although there is no necessity for artificial impregna- tion of the Cucumber flowers when grown in the open air, where the insects and winds do the work, yet, when grown in the forcing-house, it is absolutely necessary, particularly in midwinter. This is best done with a camel's hair pencil, by detaching the pollen, or fertilizing dust, from the stamens and applying it to the stigma. It will also facilitate impregnation on bright days to slightly jar the wire trellis, so as to let the pollen loose, which, in floating through the air, fastens on the stigma. Cu- cumbers from seed sown in October will give a continu- ous crop until June — of course, if well handled. When wanted only to succeed crops of Lettuce or Eadishes in spring, the seed should not bo sown until February or GRBBiq-HOUSBS EOK EOKCING VEGETABLES. 81 March. The variety for forcing which seems to be most favorably received in our markets is "Selected Early White Spine," though, of late years, the beautiful long kinds, such as " Telegraph " and " Eambler," which are almost exclusively used in Europe, are beginning to be favorably received. Forced Cucumbers from December to May average, for best quality in the market of New York, $6 per dozen, and' if the forcing is well done, this price will be found to pay very well. Southern competition, . of course, seriously interferes with the forcing of cucum- bers, as it does with nearly everything else in early vege- tables and fruits ; but, like hot-house grapes, the bloom and fine appearance, together with the more delicate flavor, of the forced Cucumber, finds customers in all large cities who are willing to pay for the finer quality. FORCING STRAWBEEEIES. The wide greenhouses, already described as being suit- able for forcing Lettuce and Radishes or Cucumbers, are equally adapted, with slight modification, for the forcing of Strawberries. This modification is in having the .benches or tables raised, so as to be as near the glass as it is practicable to have them, as shown by the sketch, fig- ure 13, of end section annexed. It is also necessary that ■eight runs of four-inch pipe are used instead of six, as are in use for Lettuce and Eadishes, as Strawberries re- quire a somewhat higher temperature. The pi-oper preparation of the plants for Strawberry forcing is indis- pensable to success. This is best done by layering the runners in small pots, as described under the head of Strawberry Culture. The layers may be placed in the pots at any time from the middle of July to September 1st. When the pot is filled with roots (wh.ich will be in about two or three weeks from the time the Strawberry runner is placed in it), it is then taken up and shifted into a four-inch pot in soil four-fifths turfy loam to one- 82 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. fifth rotted cow dung, to which may be added a slight sprinkling of pure bone dust — say a handful to every bushel of soil. When the strawberry plants have been shifted from the pots in which they were layered into the four-inch size, they should be set in the open sunshine, standing the pots close together, and carefully watered as occasion re- quires, so as to induce the best possible growth. All runners should be carefully pinched off as they appear, so that the whole force of the roots may go to develop the main plant, or fruiting crown, as it is sometimes called. In four or five weeks the four-inch pots will be filled with roots, and the plants must again be shifted into six-inch pots and treated as before, which will give, by the middle of October, the necessary strong plants •for forcing. As the season of growth stops about this date, water should be withheld to some extent, so that the plants may get a season of rest. When they are placed in the forcing-house they may •either be planted out on the benches at six or eight inches apart, in soil five or six inches deep, or they may be forced in the pots, as may be desired, but, in any case, twice as many plants should be prepared as will fill the house, for, if desired, two crops can easily be raised in succession. The first plants should be placed in the forcing-house about November 1st ; these will produce marketable fruit by January or February. Plants put in in February will be ready by March or April. Of course, it will be necessary to keep the reserve plants of straw- berries in a dormant state, which is best done in cold frames or pits, the pots being plunged up to the rims in dry leaves. The best rule to follow in forcing any plant, is to keep as near as possible to its natural condition. We know that as the Strawberry plant develops its leaves and flow- ers throughout May in this latitude in the open ground. GREENHOUSES FOK FORCIJSTG VEGETABLES. 83 that the night temperature will average, perhaps, forty degrees for the first two weeks in May and fifty degrees for the last weeks, while for the first two weeks in June it will be about sixty degrees at night, and in all cases from ten to fifteen degrees higher in the day. This, then, is our rule for the forcing-houses : Start slowly, increasing the temperature as the plant develops and ripens its fruit, just as nature does in the field. Like Cucumbers, artificial impregnation is necessary for the Strawberry in the dull winter months. This is .best done by using a camel's hair pencil, twirling it from one flower to another — particularly from the staminate to the pistillate flowers — on clear days if possible, and allow- ing all possible ventilation. Sometimes hives of bees are kept in Strawberry and Cucumber forcing-houses, to assist in the impregnation. Some judgment is necessary in watering until there are indications of vigorous growth. Water at the roots sparingly ; at the same time, do not allow the soil to get .too dry, and be careful not to water the plants overhead .when iu bloom, as that will destroy the impregnation. ■When the fruit has " set," give water freely whenever necessary, and throughout the whole season of growth keep the atmosphere of the house well charged with moisture, in order to keep down the Eed Spider, the in- sect which is quickly destructive to both Strawberries and Cucumbers. The kinds of Strawberries which seem to have been the favorites for forcing are the Champion, a rather dark crimson berry of great beauty and of the largest size, .with occasional trials of Jersey Queen, on account of the great size and beauty of the fruit. But the new variety; raised by Mr. Seymour, of Norwalk, Conn., and named in' our honor, " The Henderson," from trials made with it, is likely to prove the most valuable variety for forcing purposes. It has what are known as "perfect flowers," and 84 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. hence is certain to " set " fruit. It is of the largest size, of beautiful form ; color, a rich shade of scarlet crimson, the surface looking as if varnished. In flavor it is un- surpassed by any known variety, besides having a rich and powerful aroma ; these peculiarities make it specially attractive — a necessity for forced strawberries when re- tailed at about fifty cents a berry, for in the winter months, it must be remembered, they sell at wholesale at $6 per quart, and it takes only eighteen to twenty large berries to make a quart. To our rural readers this extraordinary price paid for fruit may seem incredible, but all large cities contain people who are rich enough to afford these prices, not only for fruits but for flowers, for it is no unusual thing for $1 and even $3 to be paid for single rosebuds of the rarer or finer sorts. • At the same date that forced Straw- berries are selling in New York at $6 per quart, or forced Cucumbers at $6 per dozen, both Strawberries and Cu- cumbers grown in the Southern States, are selling at one- sixth these prices, but the quality, of course, bears no comparison with the forced commodities. We have never ourselves forced either Strawberries or Cucumbers for market, but quite a number in the vicinity of large cities make it a profitable business. In fact, there is compara- tively little difference in the profits of forcing-houses, no matter whether they are devoted to growing vegetables, fruits or flowers ; they pay well for the investment in all cases if the work is well done. HEATING BT FLUES. For beginners with small means, when personal atten- tion can be given to the fires, by heating greenhouses with flues a great saving in cost can be made — in fact, nearly half the cost of construction ; for we find that the hot water heating apparatus is usually half the cost of ordinary commercial greenhouses, while if heated by flues FORCING-PITS OK GREENHOUSES. 85 the cost of these would not be more than ten per cent, of the whole. A new method of constructing flues (or rather a revived method, for it originated in 1822,) has been in use for the past few years, which has such manifest ad- vantages that many now use it who would no doubt other- wise have used hot "water heating. Its peculiarity consists in running the flue back to the furnace' from which it starts and into the chimney, which is built on the top of the furnace. As soon as the fire is lighted in the furnace, the brick-work forming the arch gets heated, and at once starts an upward draft, driving out the cold air from the chimney, which puts the smoke flue into immediate action and maintains it ; hence chere is never any trouble about the draft, as in ordinary flues which have the chimney at the most distant point from the furnace. By this plan, we not only get rid of the violent heat given out by the furnace, but at the same time it insures a complete draft, so that the heated air from the furnace is so rapidly carried through the entire length of the flue that it is nearly as hot when it enters the chimney as when it left the furnace. This perfect draft also does away with all danger of the escape of gas from the flues into the greenhouse, which often happens when the draft is not active. Although no system of heating by smoke flues is so satisfactory as by hot water, yet there are hun- dreds who have neither the means nor the inclination to go to the greater expense of hot water heating, and to such this revived method is one that will, to a great ex- tent, simplify and cheapen the erection of greenhouses. Many old-established florists, who have had the old plan of flues in use, have changed them to the one here de- scribed, and with great satisfaction. The wonder is that such an important fact has been so long overlooked, for at the time it was discovered, heating greenhouses by flues was almost the only method in use. Figure 12 (scale, one-eighth of an inch to the foot). GAKDENING POK PKOFIT. - T h \ u .--'' « 1 Fig. 13.— HOUSE HEATED BT FLUE. FOECING-PITS OR GKEBNHOUSES. 87- shows a greenhouse twenty feet wide by fifty feet long, with furnace-room, or shed, ten by twenty feet. Here the flues are so disposed as to avoid crossing the walks, being placed under the center bench, but as near as pos- sible to the walk on each side, so that the heat may be evenly difEused throughout. If a difference in tempera-, ture is required in a house of this kind, it may be obtained by running a glass partition across the house, say at twenty-five feet from the furnace end, which will, of course, make the latter end the hottest. It will be observed that the plan (figure 12) shows by clotted lines this new or revived plan of flue heating. Figure 13 (the same scale) is a section, showing the arrangement of the benches, etc. . ... In constructing the furnace for flue heating, the size of the furnace doors should be, for a greenhouse twenty by fifty, about fourteen inches square, and the length of the furnace bars thirty inches ; the furnace should be arched over, and the top of the inside of the arch should be about twenty inches from the bars. The flue will always "draw" better if slightly on the ascent through- out its entire length. It should be elevated, in all cases, from the ground on flags or bricks, so that its heat may be given out on all sides. The inside measure of the brick flue should not be less than eight by fourteen 88 GARDEl«riNG FOB PEOFIT. inches. If tiles can be conveniently procured, they are besj; to cover with ; but, if not, the top of the flue may be contracted to six inches, and covered with bricks. After the flue has been built of brick to twenty-five or thirty feet from the furnace, cement or vitrified drain pipe, eight or nine inches in diameter, should be used, as they are not only cheaper, but radiate the heat quicker than the bricks ; they are also much easier constructed and cleaned. Care should be taken that no wood- work is in contact with the flue at any place. It may be taken as a safe rule that wood-work should in no case be nearer the flue or furnace than, eight inches. In constructing do not be influenced by what the mechanics will tell you, as few of them have had any experience in such matters, and are not able to judge of the dangers resulting from wood-work being in close contact with the heated bricks. The cost of such a greenhouse, twenty by fifty feet, heated by flue, when built alone, would be, at present prices in this vicinity, about 112 per running foot, or $600 ; but if three were built together, connected at tlie gutters, and thus save the outer walls, as shown in the chapter on Forcing Pits and Greenhouses in another part of this book, the cost of construction for three houses heated by smoke flues would not exceed $10 per running foot, or $1,500 for three houses each twenty by fifty feet. SEEDS AST) SEED RAISING. 89 CHAP TEE XI. SEEDS AND SEED EAISING. If there is one thing of paramount importance in veg- etable gardening it is purity of seed ; and for this reason the seed offered by seedsmen should be tested not only for its germinating qualities, but for its genuineness of kind. The test of germinaticn is easy enough, and there is rarely any trouble with that ; but to be certain that the variety is true to its kind, is a matter requiring time and a knowledge of varieties. In our own practice no important seeds, such as Melons, Cucumbers, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Lettuce, Celery, Ead- ishes or Beets, are ever sold until tested in our Trial Grounds, consequently they are never sold until they are a year old, or after we have had an opportunity to prove, beyond any question, that they are genuine or true to their kinds. But as all these seeds are just as good four or five years old — some of them really better — this want of "freshness," as some might term it, is no disadvantage whatever. It is quite a common practice for market gardeners to purchase from us, when they are pleased with some special strain of seed, as much of it as they will use for three years, so as to be certain beyond doubt that they have the kind they want. Thirty years ago the market gardeners grew nearly all their own seeds, as in those days we had hardly any seedsmen that knew anything about varieties, and conse- quently the market gardeners dared not risk their crops in buying from them. I remember on one occasion the seed crop of our indispensable Wakefield Cabbage failed with nearly all of us. There was only one man among .us who had had foresight enough to have a two years' supply ; I offered him $50 per pound, but could not pro- 90 GARDENIIfG FOE PROFIT, cure an ounce from him, and as no one cared to risk the seed stores in those days for Wakefield Cabbage seed, he had the whole field to himself. He planted nearly ten acres with this variety, which coming in some eight or ten days earlier than anything else, he made a little for- tune by his being able to haye a monopoly of the seed. That is now over thirty years ago,' but I have never known a Jersey gardener to be out of Wakefield Cabbage seed since, and not know where to get it. B.efore we adopted the system of proving seeds in our Trial Grounds, we often suffered severe losses. I remember once getting from one of my neighbors — a market gardener — a pound of what he honestly thought was Silesia Lettuce, but which proved to be Curled India. I used it for planting in my forcing-frames, which resulted in nearly an entire loss of the crop. The India Lettuce is a summer variety, maturing in the hottest weather, and consequently almost useless for forcing. This blunder entailed on me a loss of over a thousand dollars. A year or two ago, we im- ported from England 500 pounds of one of the leading kinds of Celery, from a source that in twenty years had always proved to be correct. Our Trial Ground test showed it to be worthless, as it was lank growing and hollow stemmed ; had we not put it through the crucial test of our Trial Grounds, we would have spread serious disaster among hundreds of our market garden cus- tomers. There is bnt little new to say of the manner of raising seeds ; the importance of selecting the purest specimens of each variety, and of keepin'g plants that are of the same families apart as far distant as the limits of the ground will admit, is now well understood. It is not practicable, however, to raise all the seeds wanted in our vegetable gardens in our climate, and consequently we have to rely on importation for seeds of Broccoli, Cauli- flower, some varieties of Cabbage, Radishes, Peas, etc. SEEDS AND SEED RAISIllTG. 91 But the great majority of seeds used are raised here, our climate being particularly well adapted for maturing them. In the raising of market yegetables, near large cities, the usual practice is for each grovs^er to grow only a few Tarieties, and these of the sorts most profitable to his location or soil. For example, we of N"ew Jersey, in the immediate yicinity of New York, grow Beets, Cab- bages, Cauliflowers, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Eadishes and Turnips as a first crop, followed by Celery, Thyme,. Sage, Broccoli and late Cabbage as a second crop ; but in the more southern counties of the State, where crops ma- ture ten or twelve days earlier, but the distance greater from market, the bulkier and cheaper articles are not grown, and only the more portable and (when early) valuable kinds are raised, of which Tomatoes, Melons, Peas, Kidney Beans, Early Turnips and Beets are the staple articles. Seed growing, as practiced by market gardeners, is on much too small a scale to make it profitable ; in fact, there is hardly a seed raised, but costs much more than what it can be purchased for from the seedsmen. Seeds- men are supplied by regular seed growers, who make a special business of it ; they are located in nearly every State in the Union, as the proper geographical distribu- tion of where seeds are grown, is found to be of the first importance ; tropical seeds, such as Melons, Cucum- hers, Egg plants, and Tomatoes, doing better in higher temperatures, while Cabbajges, Peas, etc., do better in colder latitudes. California is becoming an important seed growing State, its climatic conditions being favor- able for nearly, all kinds of seeds. Seed growers, as a whole, are a highly responsible class of men, who thor- oughly understand the business, and are now successfully competing with the English and French growers, from whom, only a few years ago, nearly all our seeds were imported. By being able to get the seeds' grown in our 92 GAEDENING FOK PROFIT. own country, we are able to supervise the growing of them, and, consequently, the risk of error in getting spurious or inferior varieties is now very small indeed. Hence there is now no necessity for the market gardeners to grow their own seeds, when they can be confident of getting what they want from the seedsman at half the price at which they can be grown by the market gardener; for while the seedsman contracts for tons, raised with all the appliances for saving seed in the best man- ner, the market gardener can only grow a few pounds on his usually limited area. As a result of the mar- ket gardeners growing their own seeds, may be mentioned the fact that the Chinese gardeners in California, by reason of saving their own seeds, have let varieties so run down as to be hardly recognizable as the best types as now grown by our best Eastern market gardeners. How- ever, no gardener should risk his crop without testing the seed, unless he has implicit cohfideuce in the sourco from whence it has been purchased. It will be understood that of all annual plants, such as Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Egg Plants, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Kadishes, Tomatoes, etc., the seed is saved the season of planting, and should be always taken from those first maturing, if earliness is an object. The seeds of biennial vegetables, such as Beets, Cari'ots, Celery, Cabbages, Onions, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnips, etc., are raised by selecting the best specimens from those preserved over winter, planting them out in good soil on the opening of spring, at distances such as are recom- mended for their growing. DuEATioiir OP Gebmikation m Seeds. — There are very few seeds that will not germinate as freely the second year as the first, if properly kept in a cool place, and not exposed to either a too drying or too damp an atmosphere. With the exception of Parsnips, Onions and Leeks, I would just as confidently sow seed two SEEDS AJffD SEED-RAISING. 93 years old as when fresh gathered ; but there is a limit to the vitality of seeds, varying much in the difEerent families. Among those only safe for two years are : Beans and Peas of all kinds. Peppers, Can'ot, Corn, Egg Plant, Okra, Salsify, Thyme, Sage, and Ehubarb. Those safe for three years : Asparagus, Endive, Let- tuce, Parsley, Spinach, and Eadish. Those safe for five years : Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- bage, Celery, and Turnip. Those possessing the greatest vitality are : Beet, Cu- cumber, Melon,. Pumpkin, Squash, and Tomato ; the time ranging from six to ten years. Market gardeners find this knowledge very valuable ; for example, in procuring the stock of a seed known to be good, of a variety that does not seed the season it is marketable, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Celery, we procure enough to last at least two seasons. The first season only a little is sown, to test the merit of the variety, for we are never incautious enough to risk a full crop with one experiment. If it proves valuable, we have enough in reserve to sow for a full crop, know- ing that it is sure to germinate. This was particularly the case with our New Dwarf Celery. On the recommen- dation of a friend I imported ten pounds of the seed, but, doubtful of how it would. suit our market, only as much was sown as would furnish a few hundred plants. These showed so much superiority, in all respects, to the tall varieties that we had been growing, that the following season I put in half my crop with the dwarf seed. The thing was entirely new in our market, and so niuch superior that it sold for prices that would seem incredible. My ten pound bag was not half exhausted, and the next season I planted my whole crop, fourteen acres, containing neai'ly half a million roots, and made 94 GARDENING POR PROFIT. one of the best hits I ever made in gardening. But by this time my neighbors began to take an unusual interest in my Celery crop, and I could monopolize the variety no longer. The originator of our New White Plume Celery, which will be described elsewhere, made an equally good hit before his neighbors waked up to the importance of its merits. A frequent source of complaint is the fact of seeds failing to germinate during long continued dry weather, and it is very important that the gardener should always apply common-sense to his work, and not simply follow routine, for what will suit for one condition of soil or atmosphere would be unnecessary, or even wrong, for another. I will give a case to illustrate. About the fifth of May of 1871, I sowed a large patch of open ground with Celery seed, and another with Cabbage seed. The soil was in fine order, and the beds, after sowing, were raked — the Celery with a fine steel rake, the Cabbage with a large wooden rake, which covered the seed of each to the regular depth. The weather was dry, with indications of its continuing so, and after sow- ing I had both the Cabbage and Celery beds rolled heavily, leaving, however, a strip of each unrolled, se that I could clearly show to some of my young men what the result of this omission would be if dry weather con- tinued. Had a heavy rain fallen within a day or two after sowing, it would have compacted the soil and pro- duced the efEect of rolling it. But we had no rain for three or four weeks, and a burning-hot atmosphere, pass- ing through the shallow, loose covering of tlie seeds, shriveled and dried them up so that it was impossible they could ever germinate. This little experiment re- sulted exactly as any one having experience in seed-sow- ing knew it must ; our crop of Celery and Cabbage plants were as fine as need be on the rolled bed, while not one seed in a thousand of the Cclorv, and not one in SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 95 a hundred of the Cabbage started in the strips where the soil was left loose. In the sowing of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce in September, the same precaution had better be used. But in small beds, such as are usually taken for these, if a roller is not at hand, after raking the beds the soil should be firmly patted with the back of the spade ; this not only produces quicker and more certain germination, but it leaves the surface of the bed smooth, so that the plants come up straighter than if the beds were left rough. We consider the practice of soaking seeds worse than useless. For fuller instructions on this, one of the most important of all garden operations, see Chapter on the "Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting." The greater part of this chapter has been already pub- lished in my book, entitled "How the Farm Pays," as well as portions of it in some of our seed catalogues. Believing it is of vital importance, I think it cannot be too often repeated. I have been writing on Horti- culture for nearly forty years, but I consider that I have benefited the farmers and gardeners of the United States more by the instructions given in the " Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting," than by any other article I have ever written. 96 GAKDENING FOR PKOFIT. f CHAPTEE XII. THE USE OF THE FEET IN SOWING AND PLANTING. [Bead before the Nationnl Association of Niiracvymen, held at Cleveland, O., by Peti.r Hendersou.] It may be useless to throw out any suggestions in rela- tion to horticultural operations to such a body of prac- tical men as is now before me. Yet I candidly admit that, although I have been extensively engaged in gar- dening operations for over a quarter of a century, I did not fully realize, until a few years ago, the full impor- tance of how indispensable it was to use the feet in the operations of sowing and planting. For some years past I have, in writing on gardening matters, insisted upon the great importance of " firming " the soil over the seeds after sowing, especially when the soil is dry, or likely to become so. I know of no oper- ation of more importance in either the farm or garden, and I trust that what I am about to say will be read and remembered by every one not yet aware of the vast im- portance of the practice. I say "vast importance," for the loss to the agricultural and horticultural community from the habit of loosely sowing seeds or setting out plants in hot and dry soils, is of a magnitude which few will believe until they have witnessed it ; and it is a loss all the more to be regretted, when we know that by "firming" the soil around the seed or plant, there is, in most cases, a certain preventive. Particularly in the sowing of seeds, I consider the matter of such great importance that it cannot be too often or too strongly told ; for the loss to the agricultural and horticultural community by the neglect of the simple operation of firming the soil around the seed USE OF THE FEET IN SOWING AND PLANTING. 97 must amount to many millions annually. Poi- the mis- chief done is not confined only to the less important garden operations, but even Corn, Cotton, Yvheat, Tur- nips and other import:ant crops of the farm often fail, in hot and drj soils, by being sown without being firmed sufficiently to prevent the dry air shriveling or drying the seeds. Of course, the use of the feet is impractic- able in firming seeds on the farm, but a heavy roller, applied after sowing, is an absolute necessity under cer- tain conditions of the soil, to insure perfect germination. From the middle of April to nearly the end of May of this year, in many sections of the country, there was little or no rain. Such was particularly the case in the vicinity of New York City, where we have hundreds of market gardeners, who cultivate thousands of acres of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Celery, but the "dry spring"' has played sad havoc with their seed-beds. Celery is not one-fourth of a crop, and Cabbage and Cauliflower hardly half, and this failure is due to no other cause than that they persist in sowing their seeds v.-ithout even tak- ing the precaution to firm the soil by rolling. We sow annually about four acres of Celery, Cabbage and Cauliflower plants, which produce probably five millions in number, and which we never fail to sell mostly in our immediate neighborhood to the market gardeners, who have, many of them, even better facil- ities than we have for raising these plants, if they would only do as we do, firm the seed after sowing, which is done thus : After plowing, harrowing and leveling the land smoothly, lines are drawn by the " marker," which makes furrows about two inches deep and a foot apart ; after the man who sows the seed follows another, who, with the ball of the right foot, presses down his full weight on every inch of soil in the drill where the seed has been sown ; the rows are then lightly leveled longi- 98 GARDENING FOK PROFIT. tudinally with the rake, a light roller is passed over them, and the operation is done. By this method our crop has never once failed, and what is true of Celery and Cabbage seed is nearly as true of all other seeds requiring to be sown during the late spring or summer months. On July 3d of 1874, as an experiment, I sowed twelve rows of Sweet Corn and twelve rows of Beets, treading in, after sowing, every alternate row of each. In both cases, tliose trodden in came up in four days, while those unfirmed remained twelve days before starting, and would not then have germinated had not rain fallen, for the soil was as dry as dust when the seed was sown. The result was that the seeds that had been trodden in grew freely from the start, and matured their crops to a marketable condition by fall ; while the rows un- firmed did not mature, as they were not only eight days later in germinating, but the plants were also, to some extent, enfeebled by being partially dried in the loose, dry soil. This experiment was a most useful one, for it proved that a corn crop, sown in the vicinity of New York as late as July 2d, could be made to produce "roasting ears" in October, when they never fail to sell freely at high rates, but the crop would not mature unless the seed germinated at once, and which would never be cer- tain at that dry and hot season, unless by this method. The same season, in August, I treated seeds of Tur- nips and Spinach in the same way. Those trodden in ger- minated at once and made an excellent crop, while those unfirmed germinated feebly, and were eventually neai-ly all burned out by a continuance of dry, hot air penetrat- ing through the loose soil to the tender rootlets. I beg to caution the inexperienced, however, by no means to tread or roll in seed if the ground is vot dry. The soil may often be in a suitable condition to sow, , USE OF THE FEET IJS SOWING Al-TD PLANTIiq-G. C'ct and yet may be too damp to be trodden upon or rolled. In such cases these operations may not be necessary at all. for if rainy weather ensue, the seeds will germinate of course ; but if there is any likelihood of a continued drouth, the treading or rolling may be done a week or more after the seed has been sown, if there is any reason to believe that it may suffer from the dry, hot air. An- other very important advantage gained by treading in the seed is, that when we have crops of Beets, Celery, Turnips, Spinach, or anything else that is sovm in rows, the seeds to form the crop come up at once ; while the seeds of the weeds, that are just as liable to perish by the heat as are those of the crop, are retarded. Such of the weed seeds as lie in the space between the rows where the soil is loose will not germinate as quickly as those of the crop sown ; and hence we can cultivate between the rows before the weeds germinate at all. Of course, this rule of treading in or firming seeds after sowing, must not be blindly followed. Very early in spring or late in fall, when the soil is damp and there is no danger from heated, dry air, there is no necessity for doing so. Now, if firming the soil around seed, to protect it from the influence of .a dry and hot atmosphere, is a necessity, it is obvious that it is more so in the case of plants whose rootlets are even more sensitive to such in- fluence than the dormant seed. Experienced professional horticulturists, however, are less likely to neglect this than to neglect in the case of seeds, for the damage from such neglect is easier to be seen, and hence better understood, by the practical nurseryman ; but with the inexperienced amateur the case is different. When he receives his package of trees or plants from the nurseryman, he handles them as if they were glass, every broken twig or root calls forth a complaint, and he proceeds to plant them, gingerly 100 GAr.nENI.NG FOE puoriT. straightening out each root and sifting the soil around them, but he would no more stamp down that soil than he would stamp on the soil of his mother's grave. So the plant, in nine cases out of ten, is left loose and wabbling ; the dry air penetrates through the soil to its roots ; the winds shake it ; it shrivels up and fails to grow ; and then come the anathemas on the head of the unfortunate nui'seryman, v/ho is charged with selling him dead trees or plants. About a month ago I sent a package of a dozen roses by mail to a lady in Savannah. She wrote me a woful story last week, saying that, though the roses had arrived seemingly all right, they had all died but one, and what was very singular, she said, the one that lived was the one that Mr. Jones had stepped on, and which she had thought sure was crushed to death, for Mr. Jones weighs 200 pounds. Now, though I do not advise any gentleman of 200 pounds putting his brogan on the top of a tender rose plant, as a practice conducive to its health, yet, if Mrs. Jones could have allowed her weighty lord to press the soil against the root of each of her dozen roses, I much doubt if she would now have to mourn their loss. It has often been a wonder to many of us, who have been workers in the soil for a generation, how some of the simplest methods of culture have not been practiced until we were nearly done with life's work. There are few of us but have had such experience ; personally, I must say that I never pass through a year but I am confounded to find that some operation cannot only be done quicker, but done better, than we have been in the habit of doing it. These improvements loom up from various causes, but mainly from suggestions thrown out by our employees in charge of special departments, a system which we do sill in our power to encourage. rSE 01' THE PEET IX SOWIX'G AXD PLAXTIXG. 101 As a proof of the value of such improvemeut:^ which have led to simplifying our operations, I will state the fact that though my area of greenhouse surface is now more than double that which it was in 1870, and the land used in our florist's business is one-third more, the number of hands employed is less now than in 1870, and yet, at the same time, the quality of our stock is vastly better now than then. Whether it is the higher price of labor in this country that forces us into labor-saving expedients, or the inter- change of opinions from the greater number of nation- alities centering here, that gives us broader views of cul- ture, I am not prepared to state ; but that America is now selling nearly all the products of the greenhouse, garden, nursery and farm lower than is done in Europe, admits of no question ; and if my homely suggestions in this matter of firmicg the soil around newly planted seeds or plants will in any degree assist ns in still holding to the front, I shall be gratified. In the summer of 1886 I had a visit from one of the market gardeners of Norfollc, Va., who told me that he annually grows fifty acres of Spinach, but that often by dry weather in autumn, only a partial crop was obtained, owing to the failure of the seed to germinate. I asked him if he trod in the seed with the Eeet ; he said no, that it would be quite a big job to tread in rows at one foot apart on an area of fifty acres. A little calculation showed that it could be done for less than 150, and when it is known that a good crop of Spinach grown in Nor- folk will sell in the markets of New York for at least $300 an acre, it will readily be seen that it would hardly be worth while to withhold $1 per acre extra labor, if it would, as it undoubtedly would in many cases, secure a crop. Seedsmen have more complaint of Spinach seed failing to germinate than perhaps anything else, as it has usually to be sown in hot, dry weather, but failure would 102 GARDEI^ISTG FOE PROFIT. rarely occur ii after sowing the seed the soil was carefully pressed down with the feet. It was rather an amusing incident that first brought to the attention o" a truck farmer of Charleston, S. C.-, the importance of firming the soil. It seems that a gen- tleman of color, having the constitutional weakness for chickens peculiar to some of his race, got into a hen roost and helped himself bountifully. In evading the highroad, he struck a bee-line through a newly-sown Turnip field, where he left tracks that led to his detec- tion. But these tracks did more. They showed to Squire Buncombe, whose chickens had suffered, that wherever the foot of the colored citizen had fallen, there he had a " stand" of Turnips and nowhere else (for they had been loosely sown and the weather was dry). The lesson shot home and has been v/orth tens of thouspnds of dollars to the farmers of South Carolina, who, it seems, were never before sufficiently alive to the impor- tance of firming the soil until the unfortunate negro showed them the way. The world has often raised mon- uments to men who have done far less to benefit their fellows than this poor negro unconsciously did for the farmers of North Carolina. HOW, WHEls" ASl) WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 103 CHAPTER XIII. HOW, WHEN AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. As seed sowing is the starting point of cropping, a thorough knowledge of the conditions necessary for the germination of the different varieties will go far towards putting the tyro in gardening well on the way to success. The very general want of knowledge in this matter is too often the cause of much undeserved censure upon the seedsman, for in nine cases out of ten the failure is not with the seeds, but results from the time or manner of sowing. When the owner of a garden sends his order for seeds to the seedsman, it is generally a complete list of all he wants for the season. They are received, and the interesting operation of sowing is begun : first in a hot bed, if he has one, often as early as the first week in February (which in the latitude of New York is a month too soon), and in go indiscriminately, at the same date and under the same sash, his seeds of Cabbage, Cauli- flower, Lettuce, and Egg Plant, Peppers and Tomatoes. Yet even in the waning heat of this early hot-bed, where a thermometer would possibly not indicate more than fifty degrees, he finds in a week or so his Cabbage, Let- tuce, and Cauliflower "coming through" nicely, but as yet no Egg Plants, Peppers, or Tomatoes. He impatiently waits another week, makes an examination, and discovers that instead of his Tomatoes and Egg Plants beginning to vegetate, they are commencing to rot. It is now plain to him that he has been cheated ; he has been sold old seed, and if he does nothing worse, he forever after looks upon the seedsman ho has patronized as a venal wretch, destitute of principle and honesty. But he must have 104 GAEDENINTG FOR PEOFIT. Tomatoes, Peppers, and Egg Plants, and he buys again, but this time from another seedsman, warranted honest. He renews his hot-bed — it is now a month later, and a bright March sun, 'with milder nights, give him the proper temperature in his hot-bed (seventy or eighty de- grees) — and his eyes are at last gladdened by the sprout- ing of the troublesome seed. April comes with warm sunshine, inviting him to begin to "make garden" out- side. He has yet the balance of the original lot of seeds that he bought in February. But as he is still entirely befogged about the cause of his failure in the first hot- bed, he begins his open ground operations with little confidence in his seeds, but as he has got them, they may as well be tried. And again he sows, on the same day, his Peas and Lima Beans, Radishes and Pumpkins, Onions and Sweet Corn. Hardy and tender get the same treat- ment. The result must of necessity be the same as it was in the hot-bed ; the hardy seeds duly vegetate, while the tender are of course rotted. This time he is not sur- prised, fur he is already convinced that seedsman No. 1 is a rascal, and only wonders how any of his seeds grew at all, so he again orders from seedsman No. 2 for the articles that have failed. Here circumstances continue to favor the latter, for by this time the season has ad- vanced in its temperature, and the seeds duly vegetate. Every experienced farmer knows that in this latitude he can sow Oats or AVheat in March or April, but if he sows his Corn or Pumpkins at the same time they will perish ; this he knows, but he may not know that \vhat is true of the crops of the farm, is equally true of the garden. Hence the importance of a knowledge of the season when to sow vegetable seeds or set out plants. A most important c.ise in point occurs just as I write (May 15th, 1886). A would-be farmer to whom we sold fifty bushels of Sweet Corn complains that not a seed of the corn which he had planted has grown. He had now, WHEN AND WHEKE TO SOW SEEDS. 105 sowed it about May 1st, in JSTortliern Indiauai, and three weeks too early for that section; what made matters even worse, we have had a cold, wet May ; the average temperature at night for the fortnight would probably not exceed forty-five degrees. Under such circumstances the seed corn could no more have germinated than if it had been thrown into the fire. That the seed was good was certain beyond question, as our trials showed that ninety per cent. grew. A decision was not long ago rendered in one of the Philadelphia courts against the claim for damages made by a market gardener, who brought suit against a well- known seedsman of that city for having sold him seed of Early York Cabbage that had "run to seed." The ventilation of such a matter is exceedingly in- structive to those engaged in gardening operations, as was shown by the facts elicited on the trial, the gist of which was, that the prosecutor had sown the Cabbage seed on the 5th of September instead of the 15th, and that error, combined with an unusually mild and grow- ing fall, practically lengthened the season, so that the Cabbage plants became "annuals" — running to seed within the year of sowing — rather than forming heads and acting as " biennials," as was expected of them. Now, just here an excellent lesson comes in with another vegetable. Many of our so-called scientific gardeners are English, Scotch, Irish, or Germans ; they come here, most of them, with a thorough contempt for our rougher style of doing things (a practical style born of our neces- sities in the higher cost of labor) ; and it is next to im- possible to convince one in a dozen of them that there is anything in horticultural matters here that they need to be informed of. Accordingly, if he wishes to raise Celery, he starts his seed in a hot-bed in February, just as he would have done in England, and is astonished to find in July that instead of forming a thick and solid 106 GAEDEXISTG POU PjROFIT. stalk, as it ^onld have done there, it spindles and runs to seed. If his knowledge of the art had been based on common-sense, instead of the blind routine practice ac- quired in a coldar climate, he would have known that our season — from April 1st to July 1st — would sum up nearly the same mean of temperature here as it would there, from February 1st to July 1st ; and hence it was not only unnecessary here, but dangerous to the welfare of the crop, to sow such biennial plants as Celery in any other place than in the open ground, and that not before April. It was just such an error that the market gar- dener made who sued the seedsman above alluded to. He had been following, likely, the English or German method, and paid the penalty not only of losing his crop, but losing his law-suit, by not adapting his practice to our conditions of temperature. As the matter of sovv-ing the seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce to make plants to winter over in cold-fi-ames, is one in which there is a wide-spread interest, I may state that the time of sowing in fall, in a country having such an area and difEerence of latitude as ours, is somewhat difficult to fix upon ; but taking the latitude of New York as a basis, the safest time we have found to sow is about the loth of September. Of late years we have even sown some kinds as late as September 30th, with excellent success, in warm, well-sheltered positions, in a rich, well-pre- pared soil. Each kind of seed has certain limits of temperature, below or above which it cannot well germinate. Below the minimum heat it remains dormant ; above its maxi- mum limit, its vitality is destroyed ; between these two points is found the temperature most favorable to rapid germination. I'ractically it suffices to divide our garden seeds into two classes : natives of temperate and natives of subtropical countries. The tempevr.ture best fitted for the germination of HOW, WHE.\ AND-AVHERK TO SOW SEI;L>S. 107 seeds of the leading kinds, will be best understood by the tabular form given belo'.v ; Vegetable seeds that may be soiun^ in this latitude, from tJui middle of March to iJie end of April. Ther- mom^ter in the shade averaging 45 Beet. Carrot. Lettuce. Onions. Cress. Celery. Cabbage. Cauliflower. Parsnip. Parsley. Peas. Kaaish. Endive. Kale. TurniiJ. Spinach Vegetable seeds that may he sown in the open ground, in this laiittide, from the middle of May to the mid- dle of June. Thermometer im the sltade averaging BO degrees. Beans, Bush. Melon, Musk. Beans, Cranberry. Melon, Water. Beans, Lima. Nasturtium. Beans, PoIj. Okra. Beans, Scarlet Pumpkin. Eunner. Squash. Corn, Sweet. Tomato. Cucumber. It will be understood that these dates refer only to the latitude of New York ; farther South operations should be begun earlier ; farther North, later. So much for the time of sowing. I will now refer to suitable soil and the manner of sowing. The Choice oi? Soil wherein seeds are sown, when choice can be made, is of impoi-tance, the best being a light soil, composed of leaf mold, sand, and loam ; the best substitute for leaf mold being well-decayed stable manure, or, better yet, decayed refuse hops from the breweries — in short, anything of this nature that will tend to lighten the soil, the point to be avoided being a weight of soil, either from the nature or quantity of it. The nature of the soil is not of so much importance for the germinating of large vigorous seeds, as Peas, Beets, Beans, Corn, etc. ; but with the delicate, slow sprouting sorts, as Celery, Parsnip, Egg Plant, or Peppers, it is of much importance. Seeds of nearly every garden vege- table should be sown in rows ; the distance apart ac- cording to the variety, and the depth proportioned to the size of the seed. No better information can be given in this matter than the old rule of covering the seed with 108 GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. about twice or thrice its thickness of soil, but this should always be followed up by having the soil pressed closely down. In our market gardens here we invariably tread or have t*lie ground rolled ; or in frames or hot-beds, where the roller cannot be used, we pat the soil down evenly with a spade after sowing. This may not be of so much con- sequence in early spring, when the atmosphere is moist, but as the season advances, it is of great importance. Another advantage in rolling after seed sowing is, that it leaves the surface smooth and level, thereby greatly lessening the labor of hoeing. Instead of adopting the questionable practice of soaking seeds, preparatory to sowing in dry, hot weather, we prefer first, if verv dry, to thoroughly saturate the bed with water, and after it has dried enough, so that it can be raked without clog- ging, sow the seed. It is much better to do this than to water the soil after the seed has been sown, as it has a tendency in most soils to cause the surface to bake. Although directions for sowing in hot-beds have been already fully given in the Chapter on " Formation and Management of Hot-beds," and also under the head of "Spring-raising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce," yet at the risk of some repetition I again refer to it here. Sowing in Hot-beds. — After the hot-bed has been formed — say the first week in March — let soil of the kind recommended be placed on it six inches deep, into which plunge a thermometer three or four inches, and when the temperature recedes to seventy-five or eightv de^^rees, vou may then sow, giving air in mild weather as soon as the seeds begin to vegetate, covering up warmly at night with straw mats. But many that may read this never saw a hot-bed, and are perhaps never likely to have one ; to such I would say that there is an excellent substitute on hand in most dwellings, in the kitchen or basement win- dows, facing South or East, inside of which is a temper- ature usually not far from that required for the vegeta- HOW, WHEK AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 109 tion of seeds, and where plants from seeds of the early vegetables, or tender plants for the flower border, may- be raised nearly as well, and with far less attention, than in a hot-bed. Instead of hot-beds, we use our green- houses for the purpose, using shallow boxes in which we sow the seed ; these are made from the common soap box, cut into three pieces, the top and bottom forming two, and Lhe middle piece, bottomed, making the third ; these form cheap, convenient boxes. Pill these nearly full with the soil recommended, and, after sowing, press nicely down level and make the surface soil moderately firm ; keep moist in a temperature in the window of from sixty to seventy degrees, and your littJe trouble will soon be rewarded. In this way seeds should be sown tliickly, and after they have made the first rough leaf, should be again planted out into the same kind of box, from one to three inches apart, according to the kind, and placed in the window to receive similar treatment as the seeds ; but as the season advances, in mild days the boxes should be set out of doors, care being taken that they are brought in before night, and that the soil in the boxes is never allowed to got dry. I know what is usually the first tiling the novice in gardening does if he gets any choice seed or favorite cut- ting ; ho has somehow got the belief that there is some hidden virtue in a flower pot, and he accordingly sows his seed or plants his cutting in a pot, but in nine cases out of ten they are destroyed, or partially so, by the con- tinued drying of the soil in the porous flower pot. If early in the season, let delicate seeds be sown in the kitchen or sitting-room window, in the boxes as recom- mended, or if late, in the open border ; but seeds should never be sown in pots, as even in experienced hands they are much more troublesome and uncertain than boxes. EoxATTON or Crops. — Cultivators of the most limited 110 GAEDEXIXG FOE PEOFIT. experience soon discover that the same kind of crop can- not be grown on the same ground for many years in suc- cession Tvithout deterioration. A great many theories have been advanced assigning causes for this, but they are as yet far from satisfactory, and as this is not a book of theory but of practice, I ■svill not further allude to them. The following general rules will be found useful as a guide : 1st. Plants of the same family should not be planted to succeed each other. 2il. Plants which occupy the ground for a number of years, such as Ehubarb and Asparagus, should be suc- ceeded by annual plants. 3l1. Crops grown for heads, such as Cauliflower. Cab- bage, etc., should be succeeded by crops grown for their bulbs or roots. It is hardly practicable to vary crops according to any set rule, the demand in different localities for certain articles being greater than in others. Generally variety enough is demanded to allow of sufficient rotation. Our system of heavy manuring, deep culture, and taking two crops from the ground each season, seems to do away in a gTeat measure with the necessity for systematic rota- tion, which would often be found to be very inconvenient. The crops of all others that we find most benefited by change are the Cabbage tribe, together with the allied Turnip, Eadish, etc., while, on the other hand, we have grown Onions successively on the same ground for ten years — the last crop just as good as the first ; but, as a rule of safety, vary whenever you can. The best of all i-otation for crops is to "rest'" the land whenever practicable from its continued manuring and cultivating, by sowing down to grass for one, two or three years ; this gives a renewed vigor and vitality that nothing else will impart. The farmers and mai-ket gaa-- dcners of Long Island, who grow track to supplv the HOW, WHEX AND -WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. Ill great mai-ket of Xew York, are now excelling our Hud- son County, Xew Jei'sey, market gardeners, whose limited areas and high-priced lands do not permit them to use this system of "resting" their lands by a rotation of grass or clover. I have been so much impressed with the value of this plan, that, as soon as our cold frames hare been emptied of Cabbage and Lettuce plants in May, the ground is sown at once with Clover, Millet or Oats — it makes little difference which ; this crop is cut off twice or thrice and by September it forms a good sod, which is turned down. It is rotted in thirty days and the land is in the very best possible friable condition for the reception of the cold frame Cabbage, Cauliflower or Lettuce plants, which we begin to plant about the middle of October. Even when only a few weeks can be spared, we find it pays to sow the land with some green crop to be plo^ved in, rather than it should remain bare. QxTAXTiTT OF Seeds PER AcRE. — The quantities given below are somewhat higher in some kinds than the usual estimates, onr experience showing us that in weak vege- tating seeds, such as Parsnips, Carrots, etc. , it requires numbers, particularly on stiff soils, to force through plants enough to form a crop. More seed is required when sown during the dry, hot months of summer than if sown in the cooler and moist seasons of spring and fall, heuce quantities are regulated accordingly: QrAXTITY O? SEED REQUIKED TO SOW A>" ACHE. Asparjtgas 4 to 5 pounds. Beans, Dwaxf -in di-ills 2 bushels. Beans, Pole in hills 10 to 12 quarts. Beet-- in diiUs 5 to 6 pounds. Cabbage in beds to ti-ansplant ' .. pound. Carrot in drills 3 to 4 pounds. Com In hUls 8 to 10 quaits. Com (for soiling) 3 bushels. Cucumber in bills 2 to 3 ponnds. Cress, Water in di-Uls i ;o 3 pounds. 112 GARDENING TOR PROFIT. Cress, Upland in di-ills 2 to 3 pounds. Kale, or Sprouts 3 to 4 pounds. Mustard broadcast Va bushel. Melon (Musk) in hills 3 to 3 pounds. Melon (Water) -.in hills 4 to 5 pounds. Onion in di-iUs 5 to 6 pounds. Onion, (for sets) ..-in diills.. 30 pounds. Onion, (sets)... in drills. 6 to 12 bushels. Parsnip in diills. 4 to 6 pounds. Peas in diills 3 bushels. Peas broadcast. 3 bushels. Potato, (cut tubers) 10 to 13 bushels. Pumpkin in hills 4 to 6 pounds. Eadish in diills 8 to 10 pounds. Sage in diills 8 to 10 pounds. Salsify in diills 8 to 10 pounds. Spinach in drills 10 to 12 liounds. Squash, (bush varieties) in hills 4to6pounds. Squash, (running varieties) in hills 3 to 4 pounds. Tomato .to transplant 'A pound. Turnip in drills... 1 to 2 pounds. Tui-nip broadcast ._ 8 to 4 pounds. Barley .broadcast ..3 to 3 bushels. Broom Corn in hills 8 to 10 quarts. Clover (Red) alone 15 to 30 pounds. Clover (White) alone 12 to 15 pounds. Clover (Alsike) alone 8 to 10 pounds. Clover (Lucem) alone 20 pounds. Grass (Mixed Lawn) 4 to 5 bushels. Oats broadcast 3 to 3 bushels. Eye broadcast I'/j to 3 bushels. Vetches broadcast.. ._ 2 to 3 bushels. Wheat ..broadcast I'/s to 3 bushels. Timothy, alone Vs bushel. Orchard Grass, mixtm-e 4 to 5 bushels. MUlet... ..1/2 to 1 bushel. MIXTUHE r03 SEEDING MOWING LAIJDS. Clover, 1 together 1 10 pounds Clover. Timothy,^ for ■{ 'A bushel Timothy. Red-Top. ) one acre ( 1 bushel Red-Top. When diills are referred to, the seed should be sown with a seed di-ill. now, WHEN AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 113 QUANTITY OF SEEDS EEQUIEED FOE A GIVEN NnSIBEE OP PLANTS, KUM- BEE OE HILLS, OE LENOTH OE DKILL. , lOZ 60 ft. of diiU. Beet, loz 50 ft. of driU. Beans, Dwarf, 1 qt_ 100 ft. of drill. Beans, Pole, 1 qt. 150 hills. Carrot, 1 oz.. 150 ft. of dilU. Cucumber, loz 50 hills. Com, 1 qt SOOhiUs. Dandelion, 1 oz 300 ft. of drill. Endive, 1 oz 150 ft. of diill. Leek, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. Melon, Water, 1 oz 30 hiUs. Melon, Musk, 1 oz.. 60 hills. Oki-a, loz 40 ft. of di-Ul. Onion, 1 oz. 100 ft. of drill. Onion, Sets, 1 qt.... 40 ft. of di-ill. Parsley, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. Parsnip, 1 oz 300 ft. of dilU. Peas, 1 qt 100 ft. of drill. Pumpkin, 1 oz 40 hills. Eadish, loz 100ft. of drill. Salsify, 1 oz 70 ft. of dilU. Spinach, 1 oz 100 ft. of diiU. Squash, Early, 1 oz 50 hUls. Squash, MaiTow, 1 oz 16hills. Turnip, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. Asparagus, 1 oz 500 plants. Cabbage, 1 oz 3,000 plants. Cauliflower, 1 oz 2,000 plants. Celery, 1 oz 3,000 plants. Egg Plant, 1 oz 1,000 plants. Lettuce, 1 oz 3,000 plants. Pepper, 1 oz 1,000 plants. Ehubarb, 1 oz 500 plants. Tomato, 1 oz - 1,500 plants. Thyme, 1 oz 3,000 plants. Sage, 1 oz 1,000 plants. THE NHMEEE OP PLANTO, TP.EE:;, ETC., EEQUIEED TO SET AN ACEE. Distance. Number. 1ft. by 1ft 43,.560 I'A ft. by I'A ft- -.--19,360 3 ft. by 3 ft 10,890 S'/a ft. by 3'A ft-- 6,970 8ft. by 1ft 14,520 3ft. by2ft 7,360 3ft. bySft... -- -.4,840 4 ft. by 4 ft.- 2,723 5 ft. by 5 ft - -1,743 Distance. Number. 6 ft. by 6 ft 1,300 9ft. by 9ft - 537 13 ft. by 12 ft -302 15 ft. by 15 ft 194 18 ft. by 18 ft 134 20 ft. by 20 ft 103 25 ft. by 25 ft 70 30ft. by 30ft 40 40 ft. by 40 ft -.27 114 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. CHAPTER XIV. TRANSPLANTING. Transplanting is an operation of great importance ; the condition of the plant, the state of the soil, and of tlie atmosphere, have much to do with its success, independ- ently of the simple mechanical operation. It is not very easy to instruct the uninitiated as to what the proper condition of the plant should be ; experience in this being, as in everything else, the best teacher. Attention to keeping the seed-bed clear of weeds, the "topping" of plants when they get too tall, and careful digging up of them so as to preserve the root fibres, will all greatly assist. Wg cannot always get the soil in the proper con- dition of moisture to receive plants at the time trans- planting should be performed, but to make up for the want of moisture, planting should be delayed alv.";iys until late in the afternoon, unless in cloudy weather. It is also of great importance that the ground be freshly plowed ; the moist soil thus brought to the surface will induce the formation of root fibres in one night in warm weather, after whicii the plants are comparatively safe ; but if they be allowed to wilt before the new roots begin to be emitted, and continued dry weather ensues, then nothing will save them but having recourse to watering, which, however, should only be done in case of dire necessity. In planting, such plants as Cabbage, Lettuce and Celery, each man is provided with a boy, who car- ries the plants in a basket, and whose duty is to drop the plant on the line at the proper distance before the planter. In planting, a hole is made by the dibber about the depth of the root ; the plant being inserted, the soil is then pressed close to the root ; the hole thus made by the displacement of the soil is again filled up by one stroke of the dibber. In dry weather we still further TRANSPLANTING. 1]5 firm the plant by each planter returning on his ro',v and treading the soil around plants firmly with the feet. I am thus particular in describing a simple matter, know- ing well that millions of plants are annually lost by inattention to this firming of the soil. The same rule is applicable to transplanting of all kinds, trees, shrubs, or vegetables. Instead of "puddling" the roots in mud, we prefer to keep the plants dripping wet during the whole time of planting, so that each plant, as it is put in the soil, puddles itself by the particles of soil adhering to the wet root. Besides, the leaves of the plant, being wet, will for some time resist the action of the dry air. Planting oe Vegetable Plants. — A year or two ago, about the middle of .April, the snow, after its long acquaintance with us during the past winter, intruded itself again in the spring and covered our newly-planted gardens to the depth of several inches. Veteran tillers of the soil could smile at this assault, knowing it to be harmless. But correspondents, still young in the busi- ness, wrote to me fearing their planted crops were ruined. A snow, after planting in spring, I have never known to injure plants of any kind, unless, indeed, it was heavy enough to break them. The fear of snow, and of the slight late frosts, often prevents the setting of such plants as Cabbage, Lettuce, and even Asparagus, among vegeta- bles, and of Strawberries and other small fruits, until the ssason is so far advanced that hot weather comes on, starting the tops before the roots have had time to get a foothold. There is rarely danger (when the ground is sufficiently dry to work, and it never should be worked until it is so), that such hardy or half-hardy plants as we plant in spring will be injured by any frost that may come after they are put out. This opening up for spring work usually begins here by the end of March, and I have never yet seen plants . in jured by frost after that time. 116 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. To give an idea what amount of cold Cabbage and Lettuce plants will stand without injury, I will relate an experience I had in my early days of market gardening. A particularly mild spell in the latter part o£ February had led us to believe that spring had come. Out went the teams, aud the ground was manured, plowed, and planted with Cabbage and Lettuce to the extent of two acres, which was all finished up by the 26th of February. It was my second year in the business. I was yet an in- experienced hand, and my neighbors predicted that my venture was a foolhardy one, and would result in total loss, no one having ever before planted such crops in this section at such an early season. But fortune favored me ; the weather continued mild long enough to allow the plants to "strike root,'' and though the thermometer afterward marked as low as fifteen degrees above zero, and the ground was frozen for full ten days, so that it could not be again dug or plowed, yet the wild venture proved a success, and I had the satisfaction ox having the first Cabbages from that February planting that were sold in market. I never after had an opportunity of planting so early, and would not do so if I had, for it was simply favorable conditions that saved the crop. If the cold snap had set in immediately after planting, there is but little doubt the plants would have suffered injury. But the experience was valuable in showing what severity of frost such plants would stand without ir.jui-y. iluch depends on the condition of the plants ; if taken from the hot-bed or frame without being previously exposed, they might be in condition to be as easily injured as a Tomato plant. The past season I had the sashes taken off my entire crop of Cabbage and Lettuce plants on March 1st (they being hardened beforehand by ventilating), and never covered them again. They -were twice covered up with snow, and the mercury several times marked only twenty VEGETABLES — VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION. 117 degrees above zero. Yet we hardly ever before had finer plants. The sashes so taken ofE — nearly 1,000 in number — were used for our flower business, but, had we desired it, they might have been used on temporary frames, and grown a crop of Lettuce which in five weeks from date of plant- ing, March 1st, would have easily given $2 per sash. I mention these facts to give confidence to the hundreds now engaged in market gardening, who, from dread of exposing their plants in spring, not only do them ati in- jury, but lose the profit of a second use of their sashes. A third use of sashes may be had in growing Tomato, Sweet Potato, or Egg plants, after the crop of Lettuce is sold, or forwarding an early crop of Cucumbers or Melons. (See '• Forcing Cucumbers.") CHAPTER XV. VEGETABLES, THEIR VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION. In describing the modes of cultivating the different varieties of vegetables, I shall notice at length only those of the most importance, and the most profitable for mar- ket purposes, while for those of less value as market crops, the directions for culture will be such as are adapted to private gardens only. A limited number of kinds will be described, and such only as our experience has shown to possess the greatest earliness and productiveness. Nothing is more perplex- ing to the beginner than to be bewildered by descriptions of perhaps twenty so-called varieties of a vegetable that in reality does not embrace four distinct kinds. For example, in early Cabbages, there are some hundred or more varieties described ; yet we find, after having 118 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. experimented with some scores of kinds in our time, there are two varieties more profitable to grow than any others — viz., the Jersey Wakefield and Early Summer, which are grown in this locality to the exclusion of all others. However, some kinds are found to do better in some localities than in others — hence, as in fruits, no particular variety should be claimed to be universally the best. ASP ARACrJJS.— {-Asparagus officinalis.) Asparagus being a hardy perennial plant, that may be grown on the same ground for twenty years without re- newal, special care is required in forming the beds in which it is to grow. This is done sometimes by trench- ing to the depth of two or three feet, mixing each layer of soil, as turned over, with two or three inches of well- rotted manure ; but for market purposes, on a large scale, trenching is seldom resorted to ; deep and thorough pul- verizing by the plow and subsoiler serving instead. The soil best suited for Asparagus is a deep and rather sandy loam, such as is often to be found on the borders of mead- ows or on the margins of lakes or rivers — land formed by the washings of the higher grounds, and known as allu- vial. This land, when clear from under water or from overflow is by far the best suited for the growth of all kinds of vegetables and is, from the nature of the plants, particularly adapted for Asparagus or Celery. Propagation. — Asparagus is propagated by seed, w.^iich is sown in spring, as soon as the soil will admit of work- ing, which should be prepared by being thoroughly pul- verized and enriched with well-rotted manure. The seed is sown in rows one foot apart, and if kept carefully hoed and clear from weeds, the plants will be in fine condition to plant out the succeeding spring. Strict attention to this will save a year in time ; for if the seed-bed has been neglected, it will take two years to get the plants as large VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. 119 as they would be in one year, if they had been properly cared for. In consequence of this Tery common neglect of proper cultivation of the seed-bed, it is an almost uni- versal impression that the plants must be two or three years old before planting. This is undoubtedly an error, for almost all large growers for market purposes, in the neighborhood of New York, invariably plant one-year-' old plants, and count on marketing a crop the third spring from the time of sowing. One pound of seed will produce about 3,000 plants ; and to jDlant an acre of As- paragus requires from 15,000 to 20,000 plants when planted close. Planting. — The bed bemg prepared as previously described, planting may be done any time for pix or eight weeks from the opening of spring. The plant, from its peculiar succulent roots, is less susceptible of injury from late planting than most other vegetables, although at the same time delay should not occur, unless unavoid- able, as the sooner it is planted after the ground is in working order, the better will be the result. When there is plenty of ground and the crop is to be extensively grown, perhaps the best mode of planting is in rows three feet apart, the plants nine inches apart in the rows. Por private use, or for marketing on a small scale, beds should be formed live feet wide, with three rows planted in each ; one in the middle and one on each side, a foot fi'om the edge ; the distance of the plants in the rows, nine inches ; the alleys between the beds should be two feet wide. In planting, a line is set and a cut made a little slanting to the depth of six or eight inches, accord- ing to the size of the plants. The plants are then laid against the side of the trench, at the distance already named (nine inches), care being taken to properly spread the roots. The crown or top of the plant should be cov- ered about three inches. In a week or so after planting, the beds should be touched over lightly with a sharp steel 120 GAEDES^ING FOE PROFIT. rake, which will destroy the germinating weeds. The raking had better be continued at intervals of a week or 6,0, until the plants start to grow, when the hoe or hand- cultivator may be applied between the rows and alleys ; the weeds that come up close to the plant must of neces- sity be pulled out by the hand. In the first edition of this work I gave it as my belief that we had only one variety of Asparagus, and that all the so-called " Giant" and " Mammoth " varieties were merely the results of superior soil or cultivation, which on being propagated by seeds or otherwise, and placed in ordinary conditions of culture, would fall back to their original or normal condition ; in short, that the ijjecies had never "broke," as we technically term it. This belief necessarily made me skeptical to the claims of the " Colossal " when that variety was first introduced, and I invariably replied to all inquirers that past ex- perience in this matter led me to believe that it was no different from the ordinary sort. I was finally invited to pay a visit to the farm of Abra- ham Van Siclen, of Jamaica, Long Island, and there to inspect an acre of the Oyster Bay Asparagus (the ordinary kind), and an acre of his " Colossal," which Mr. Van Siclen had planted in the spring of 1868, each then one year old from seed. A thorough inspection of the roots of each lot proved that they were of the same age when planted. The soil was next examined, and found to be as near the same as it could well be, yet these two beds of Asparagus showed a difference that left me no longer a shadow of a doubt of their being entirely distinct varieties. In the old variety we found no shoot thicker than one inch in diameter and averaging twenty shoots to a hill, while in the "Colossal" many shoots were found an inch and a half in diameter, and averaging thirty-five shoots to a hill — an enormous growth, when it is remembered the plant was only three years from the seed. VEGETABLES— ASPARAGUS. 131 Mr. Van Siclen is well known as one of our best Long Island market gardeners, who has made the growing of Asparagus a specialty for twenty years, and who has prob- ably in that time sold more Asparagus in the markets of New York than any other man. He was exceedingly enthusiastic in praise of this variety, believing that at a low estimate it would yield a profit of at least one-third greater than the ordinary sort, under the same condi- tions, besides coming to maturity two years sooner. Mr. Van Siclen's method of growing Asj^aragus is sim- ple, and in some respects new to me. To begin, he sows his seeds in his rich sandy loam in April, in rows one foot apart and two inches in depth, dropping the seeds so that they may be distributed evenly about half an inch apart ; the plants are cultivated by hoeing between the rows and keeping them clear of weeds by hand pick- ing. In the spring following he sets his plants, now one year old, which are in his experience preferable to those two years old. His mode of planting is somewhat difEer- ent from the usual practice, but for having a lasting Asparagus bed — one that will be as good at the end of twenty years as it is at eight — it is probably the best. It differs in setting the roots much wider apart than usual ; his stand, six feet between the rows and four feet between the plants, making less than two thousand plants to an acre. In preparing the land to receive the plants, he merely plows to the depth of a foot or so with the ordinary plow ; his soft, sandy subsoil rendering the use of the subsoil plow unnecessary, but in soils less favored the use of the subsoil plow would be of decided advantage. In preparing to plant he turns out a furrow with a double mold-board plow, so that at its deepest part it is nearly twelve inches deep ; a good shovelful of thoroughly rotted manure is then placed in the furrow, at distances of four feet, so spread that it will make a layer of three inches or so ; an inch or two of soil is then 1 12 GAKDENING FOE PROFIT. thrown on the top of the manure, and the Asparagus planted as shown in the engraving, figure 14, and with its crown six or seven inches below the surface level. The plant is now only lightly covered up with the soil, say two or three inches, until it starts to grow, when the furrows are thrown in by the plow so that the whole surface is leveled, which places the crown of the Aspa- ragus some six or seven inches under the surface. This would be, perhaps, four inches too deep in heavy soils, but in light, soft soils it answers well. The first and second seasons after planting no Asparagus is cut for MANNEB OF PLAKTING ASPAKAGUS. market, as it weakens the roots, but in the third year a partial crop is taken, although the beds are not considered to be at theix' best until the sixth or seventh year. Their productiveness may be continued for twenty years by this wide system of planting, recourse being had to manuring freely annually, by digging or plowing it in around the roots before the crop has started to grow, or after it is cut. Gkowing Asparagus from Seed, without trans- planting, is a method now finding many advocates. It is not only a much cheaper method, but in my opin- ion it is the best method if the operator can have patience to wait a year longer for a crop. The plan is very sim- ple, and can be done by any one having even a slight knowledge of farming or gardening Avork. Prepare the land by manuring, deep plowing and harrowing, mak- ing it as level and smooth as possible for the reception of the seed. Strike out lines three feet apart and about VEGETABLES — ASPAEA.QUS. 123 two to three inches deep, in which sow the seed by hand or seed drill, as is most convenient, using from five to seven pounds of seed (which costs fifty cents per pound), to each acre. After sowing the seed and before covering tread down the seed in the rows evenly with the feet (see "Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting") ; then draw the back of a rake lengthwise over the rows, after which roll the whole surface. As soon as the land is dry and fit to work in Spring, the young plants of Aspara- gus will start through the ground sufficiently to define the rows in two or three weeks. At once begin to cultivate with hand or horse cultivator, and stir the ground so as to destroy the embryo weeds, breaking the soil in the rows between the plants with the fingers or hand weeder for the same purpose. This must be repeated at inter- vals of two or three weeks during the summer, as the success of this method is entirely dependent on keeping down the weeds, which, if allowed to grow, would soon smother the Asparagus plants, which for the first season of their growth are weaker than most weeds. In two or three months after sowing, the Asparagus will have at- tained ten or twelve inches in height. It must now be thinned out so that the plants stand nine inches apart in the rows. By fall they will be from two to three feet high, strong and vigorous, if the directions for culture have been faithfully followed. "When the foliage dies (but not before), cut the stems down to the ground and cover the lines for five or six inches on each side with two or three inches in depth of rough manure. As the spring again returns, renew the same process of cultiva- tion to keep down weeds the second year exactly as was done for the first, and so on to the spring of the fourth year, when a crop may be cut that will well reward all the labor that has been expended. Sometimes, if the land is particularly suitable, a crop may be had well worth marketing the third year, but as a rule, it will be 1' In this district, for market purposes, we confine our- selves to the first two varieties named below ; some others, however, are occasionally grown for family use. White CapCi — Heads of medium size, close, compact, and of a creamy white color ; one of the most certain to head. Purple Cape. — Nearly similar in all respects to the White Cape, except in color, which is greenish-purple. This variety is rather hardier than the preceding, but its color renders it of less value in market. White Heads of the same quality bringing $1 to $2 more per 100. This is a mere matter of fancy in the buyers, ho wevei-, as, when cooked, there is but little difference in its appearance from the White, and none whatever in the flavor. Karly Walcheren. — This variety seems to produce its heads earlier than the preceding, but they are not usually so heavy or compact. This variety so closely resembles a Cauliflower that it is not easy to eay in what respect it differs from one. In England, where the Broccoli is much more grown than with us, this variety is sown every few weeks, in order to keep up a constant supply. The English catalogues enumerate some thirty or more varieties, and each year adds to the list. BRI'SSSLS SPROUTS;— (-Brassica oleracea. Var.) This vegetable has never come into general use in this country, probably owing to its being too tender to stand the winters o* the Northern States. Still, by sowing in April or May, and planting out in July, it may be had 146 QARDKNING FOB PfiOFIT. in fine condition until December; and, in the Southem States, may be had in use from November to March. Even in England, where it is very extensively grown, it is not much raised for market, being mainly cultivated for private use. Its cultivation is very simple, and it can be grown on almost any soil. Plant about two feet apart, and cultivate as for Cabbages. Brussels Sprouts are readily distinguished from all other varieties of the Cabbage tribe by the spi'outs or buds, about the size of walnuts, which grow thickly around the stem. These Fig. 24.— BBussELs sPBouTs. sprouts avo the parts used, and are equal in tenderness and flavor to Cauliflower or Broc- coli. CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. Cabbage is much easier managed than Cauliflower, and is consequently more certain of giving a crop, even under unfavorable conditions. The first condition of succcsf^ with the Cabbage crop, like that of nearly every other vegetable, is the right kind of soil. The best soil for Cabbage is a rather sandy loam, not less than ten inches deep, the subsoil under which should be sand or gravel — a clayey or stifE subsoil is uncongenial to almost every crop. It may be superfluous to say that 'unless the soil for Cabbage is drained artificially or natur- ally (liy a sand or gravel subsoil), that success is impos- sible. This, of course, is true of nearly every crop grown. The proper pulverizing of the soil is a matter of VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAtJLIFLOWER. U7 the utmost importance. Although many of the large market gardens in England are yet dug with the spade or digging fork, it is rare that anything else is used with us than the plow and harrow. We ourselves aro so satisfied of the superiority of the plow as a pulverizer of the soil over the spade or digging fork, that we would not allow our grounds, for any purpose, to be dug, even if done for nothing, and no digging is ever done on our grounds iu any spot where horses can be worked. Experience has shown us that it is always beneficial for the Cabbage crop to plow land in the fall, not only be- cause when thus thrown up in ridges it gets pulverized by the action of the frost, but also that the turning up of the soil exposes the larvae and eggs of insects also tu the frost,which tends greatly to lessen their numbers the suc- ceeding year. Manure for the early Cabbage crop should always be spread on broadcast, and in quantity not less than 100 cart loads, or seventy-five tons to the acre, which will leave it;, when spread, about two or three inches in thick- ness. It is not unusual that much choice can be made in stable manure, but when such is the case, equal por- tions of cow and horse manure are preferable, not that there is much difference in value, weight for weight, but that it is advantageous to have the manure of the cow stable mixed with that of the horse, so as to prevent the violent heating of the horse manure, which, if not repeatedly turned, will generate heat so as to cause it to " fire fang" or burn, which renders it comparatively use- loss. Always bear in mind that the more thoroughly rotted and disintegrated manure, can be had, the better will be the results. When manure is thoroughly rotted and short, it may be turned in by the plow just as it is spread on the land, but if long, it is necessary to draw it into the furrow ahead of the plow, so that it is completely covered in. After plowing in the manure,. 148 GAEDElSrilJG FOR PROFIT. and before the ground is harrowed, our best growers in the vicinity of Hew York sow from 400 to 500 pounds of guano or bone dust, and then harrow it in deeply, and smooth over vi^ith the back of the harrow, when the bed is ready to receive tlie plants. In the vicinity of New York, and, in fact, now wher- ever the business of market gardening is intelligently followed, the two best kinds of Cabbage for the early crop are recognized to be the "Early Jersey Wakefield" and " Henderson's Early Summer" for general culture, and to describe others of the scores' named would be only confusing. " Jersey Wakefield " is the earliest and a little the smallest, and is planted usually twenty-eight inches between the rows and sixteen inches between the plants, thus requiring from 10,000 to 13,000 plants per acre. "Early Summer" grows a little larger, and should bo planted thirty inches apart and eighteen inches between plants, requiring from 8,000 to 10,000 per acre. The reason for placing the rows so wide apart and the plants so close in the rows, is to admit of a row of Lettuce, Spinach or Eadishes between the rows of Cabbage. All of these vegetables mature quickly, and can be cut out before the Cabbage grows enough to inter- fere with them, and it is necessary that this double crop should be taken off the land so as- to help pay for the manure that is so lavishly used, but which is absolutely necessary to produce a good crop of Cabbages. Where early Cabbages are grown alone, then it would be better to plant about two or two and a half feet each way, so that cross cultivation can be done ; and also in cases where manure in sufficient quantities is not attainable, they are better thus planted when manure has to be applied in the hill. If applied in the hill, a good shov- elful of stable maaurc should be used to each, mixing it well with the soil, but raising the "hill," so-called, no higher than the general surface. TEGETABLES— CABBAGE AN"D C AULIFLO-VVER. 149 There iias been a want long felt by many of the market gardeners and truckers for a .variety of Cabbage which would come in after the Early Summer and before any oi the late sorts, but such a sort, with all the characteristics of the Henderson's Early Summer, of standing without bursting, of being later, and consequently larger, is hard to obtain. Through the medium, however, of the same good friend who first brought to our notice the Hender- son's Early Summer, Mr. Abraham Van Sickleu, of Long Island, we think we will be able, within another year, to present to the public a variety of Cabbage which will exactly supply this long-feit want. That is, of a Cabbage to succeed the Early Summer, being about two weeks later than the average crop of that variety, larger, and with all its good characteristics of standing in the field without bursting and of regularity in habit, close grow- ing and sure heading. I have not yet named this variety, as I wish another season's test of it before deciding to give it to the public ; but if it sliould prove itself during another season as valuable as in the last two it will be a decided acquisition. The raising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants will, for "wmtered over" plants, be found under the head of "Uses and Management of Cold Frames," and for spring plants under the head of " Spring Raising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce Plants." WHAT DEGEEE OF FEOST WILL CABBAGE ASTD CAULI- FLOWEK STAND IN THE FRAMES BEFOKE BEING COV- ERED WITH THE SASH ? This is often a source of anxiety to beginners. Much depends on the condition of the plants ; it sometimes happens that after the transplanting is finished to Octo- ber (we usually hegin the transplanting in the frames about the 15th), that we have a continuation of com- 150 GAHDENING FOK "PROFIT. paratively warm weather, which induces a quick and soft growth in the plants, which, of course, renders them very susceptible to injury from frost. When in that condition we have seen them injured when the thermo- meter only marked twenty-seven above zero, or but five degrees of frost ; while if gradually hardened by being exposed to chilly nights, they would receive no injury, even when the thermometer marks ten or twelve above zero. This will be well understood when we remember that in midwinter, when covered with sash alone, they sust.iin a cold often for days together of ten degrees leloiv zero, but then of course they have been gradually inured to it. In sections of the country where the ther- mometer falls to fifteen or twenty degrees below zero, it will be necessary to use straw mats or shutters over the glass. At all times from the time of putting sashes on in fall until taking tliem off in spring (which is usually from March 15th to April 1st), abundant ventilation should be given, so as to render them as hardy as pos- sible. The sure indication that they are in the "frost proof" condition is, when the leaves show a bluish color, which they get when they have been gradually hardened off. Although the most of the Jersey market gardeners still use the cold frames for growing the bulk of their early Cabbage crop, of late years the system of spring sowing and transplanting, and sometimes even without transplanting, is also used to a considerable extent. For full instructions on this point, see page 51, " Spring Eaising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce." In the latitude of New York, Cabbage planting is usually begun about the 25th of March and finished by middle of April. It must always be borne in mind that Cabbage, being a very hardy plant, when wanted for an early crop, its setting ont in spring should be done in any section as soon as the land is dry enough to work. As a guide, we may say that whenever spring crops of VJ-.'UJSTABJjiSS (JAiiJJAUJJl AH U CA UJjllfLOWEJJ. iJJJl Eyp, Wheat or Oats can be sown, Cabbage may safely be planted in the open field, for if plants have been properly hardened they will not be injured after being planted out even by eight or ten degrees of frost. The conditions in the different Southern States are so varied that it is not easy to give directions. It may be taken, however, as a general rule that in any section of the country where the thermometer does not fall lower that fifteen above zero, the seed for Cabbage plants should be sown about October 1st, left (without cover- ing) in the seed-beds all winter, and transplanted to the open ground as soon as it is fit to work in spring, say January or February. In sections where the fall weather continues fine into November, transplanting is done in thiit month to where the crop is to mature. Great loss is often occasioned in mild seasons in the Southern States, by Cabbages, particularly the favorite variety — " Early Summer " — running to seed. As a remedy against this clanger T would advise sowing from two to four weeks later than the usual time, in such a way as they could be covered in cold nights only with muslin, or, what is better, the new protecting cloth ; these will answer all the pur- poses of sashes at one-tenth of their cost. I refer to this cloth more fully in another portion of this work. After planting in the field, no crop takes so kindly to hoeing or cultivating as the Cabbage. In ten days after the planting is finished, cultivation should begin. If the Cabbages have been set two or two and a half feet apart each way, then the horse cultivator is the best pulver- izer, but if a crop has been sown or planted between the rows of Cabbage, then a hand or wheel hoe cUn only be ' used — we ourselTes now use the Planet Jr. Wheel Hoe exclusively, and find it a saving of three-fourths in labor, with the work better done. The price at which early Cabbage is now sold varies so much at different dates, and in different parts of the 152 GAKDEXIN'R FOE PROFIT. country, that it is impossible to give anything like accn- rate figures, the range being all the vrny from $3 to 813 per 100. Perhaps $4 would be a fair average for "Wakefield" and $5 for "Early Summer," so that counting 11,000 as the average per acre of the former and 9,000 of the latter, we have respectively $440 per acre for " Wakefield " and $450 for "Early Summer." These are the wholesale prices for large markets like New York. In snuiller cities, where the product is sold direct to the consumer, one-third more would likely be obtained. LATE CABBAGES are such as mature during the months of September, October and November, the seed for which is sown in open ground in May or June. Perhaps the best date for sowing for main crop is about the 1st of June. We al- ways prefer to sow Cabbage seed for this purpose in rows ten or twelve inches apart, treading in the seed with the feet, after sowing and before covering ; we then level with a rake lengthwise with the rows and roll or beat down with the back of a spade, so as to exclude the air from the soil and from the seed. Sown in this way. Cabbage seed will come up strongly in the driest weather, and is less likely to be afflicted with the black flea than if it made a feeble growth. When the plants get too tall, mow two or three inches off the tops, which will make them stouter and stronger rooted. As the ground used for late Cabbage only yields one crop, unless manure is cheap and abundant, it will not often pay to use it in the profusion required for ear^ Cabbages, so that it is usual to manure in the hill, as is done for early crops, if with stable manure, but when that is not attainable, some concentrated fertilizer, such as bone dust or guano should be used, giving a good handful for each hill, bi^t being careful, of course, to mix it well with the VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 153 soil for about nine or ten inches deep and wide. In this way about 300 pounds per acre will be needed, when 6,000 or 7,000 plants are set on an acre. In our prac- tice we iind nothing better than pure bone dust and guano mixed together. In transplanting Cabbages from the seed-bed to the open field in summer, the Avork is usually done in a dry and hot season — end of June or July — and here again we give our oft-repeated warning of the absolute neces- sity of liaving every plant properly firmed. If the plant- ing is well done with the dibber, it may be enough, but it is often not well done, and as a measure of safety, it is always best to turn back on the rows after planting and press alongside of each plant with the foot. Tliis is quickly done, and it besides rests the planter, so that he can start on the next row with greater vigor. In some sections of the country, particularly in the Now England States, six or eight Cabbage seeds are planted in the hills, and when of the height of two or three inches, are thinned ont to one plant in each hill. This we think not only a slower method, but is otherwise objectionable, inasmuch as it compels the manure to be placed for three or four weeks iu tlie ground before the plant can take it up, to say nothing of the three or four weeks' culture necessary to be done before the seedlings in the hill get to the size of the plants when set out. The cultivation of late Cabbage is, in all respects, similar to that of early, except as it is usually planted alone ; the work of cultiva- tion is done entirely by the horse cultivator, the rows and plants in the rows being, according to the kind, from twenty-four to thirty inches apart. There are a great number of kinds offered in the different seed lists, but experienced cultivators confine themselves to but very few kinds. These we give in the order m which they are most approved: "Henderson's Selected Plat Dutch," "American Drumhead," and "Marblehead Mammoth." lo4 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. Ill addition to these, the "American Drumhead Savoy" is grown to a considerable extent, and it is really surprising that it is not grown to the exclusion of nearly all other sorts, as it attains to nearly as much weight of crop, is much more tender, and finer in flavor. The "Green Scotch " and " Brown German Eale" belong to tuo Cab- bage family, but do not form beads. The curled leaves of the whole plant can be used, and are, like the ' ' Savoy," much finer in flavor than the plain headed cab- bages, particularly after having been subjected to frost. KEEPING CABBAGES IN WINTER. It is best to leave late Cabbages out as late as possible, provided they can be lifted before being frozen in. In this latitude they can be safely left out until the third week in November. They are then dug or pulled up, accord- ing to the nature of the soil, and turned upside down — the roots up, the heads down — ^just where they have been growing, and the heads placed closely together in beds, six or eight feet wide, with alleys of about same width between, care being taken to have the ground leveled, so that the Cabbages will set evenly together. They can be left in this way for three or four weeks, or as long as the ground remains so that it can be' dug in the alleys between the beds, the soil from which is thrown in on the beds of Cabbage, so that when finished they have a covering of six or seven inches of soil, or sufficient to cover up the roots completely. Sometimes they are cov- ered up immediately on being lifted, by plowing a far- row, shoveling it out wide enough to receive the heads, then plowing so as to cover up, and so on till beds six or eight feet wide are thus formed. This plan is the quickest, but it has the disadvantage, if the season proves mild, of having the Cabbages covered up by the soil too soon, and hence more danger of decay. After the ground is frozen, stable litter, straw or leaves, to the depth of VEGETABLES— CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 155 throe or four inches, should be throAvn over the Cabbage beds, so as to prevent excessive freezing, and to facilitate the getting at the Cabbages in hard weather. INSECTS ATTACKING THE CABBAGE. The insects that attaclv the Cubbage tribe are various, and for some of them Ave regret to say that sve are almost helpless in arresting their ravages. Young Cabbage plants in fall or in hot-beds in spring, are often troubled with the Aphis, or, as it is popularly known, the " Green fly," or "Green louse." This is easily destroyed by hav- ing the plants dusted over once or twice with tobacco dust. This same insect, of a blue color, is often disas- trous to the growing crop in the field, and, on its first ■appearance, tobacco dust should be applied, as, of course, if the Cabbage is headed up, it could not be used ; hence, it is always best to apply it as a preventive remedy. Another insect which attacks them in these stages is a species of slug, or small caterpillar — a green, glutinous insect, about one-fourth or one-half an inch in length. This is not quite so easily destroyed as the other, but will succumb to a mixture of one part white hellebore to four parts lime dust, sprinkled on thick enough as to slightly whiten the plants. This same remedy we have found to be the most effica- cious in preventing the ravages of the " Black Flea," or " Jumping Jack," that is often so destructive to Cabbage plants sown or planted in open ground during May and June, but in this case its application may have to be repeated daily often for two weeks. Another most troublesome insect is the Callage cater- pillar, which often attacks the crop when just beginning to head. This is the larva of a species of small white butterfly, which deposits its eggs on the crop in May or June. When fields of Cabbage are isolated, or where neighbors can be found to act in unison, the best plan is 156 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. to catch the butterflies with an insect-catching net as soon as they show themselves. This is the mostefEectivo and quickest way to get rid of them. However, if that has been neglected, tlie caterpillar can be destroyed by dusting white hellebore on the Cabbages, but, of course, this cannot be done when the heads are matured enough to be ready to use, as the hellebore is to some extent poi- sonous, though if used when the plants are about half grown, it will do no harm, as the rains will have washed it oft safficiently by the time they head up. The insects here described are not, probably, all that afflict the Cab- bage crop. A letter just received from a gentleman in Montgomel-y, Alabama, says that the young Cabbage plants in that region are often swept off in twenty-four hours by a small green worm — a species of slug or cater- pillar, no doubt. The remedy for all such is white helle- bore powder, which had better be dusted on the plants once a week, as a preventive, before the insect makes its appearance. In fact, all remedies against insects are best used as preventives, or, at least, on their first appearance. But the insect enemies that attack the roots of the Cabbage are not so easy to destroy. In fact, with the Wire Worm and Cublage Maggot we are almost helpless, as far as my experience has gone. For the latter, which is the worst enemy, a remedy has recently been recom- mended to me which as yet I have not tested. It is to make a iiole with the dibber five or six inches deep, close to each root, and di'op into it nine or ten drops of bi- sulphide of carbon, closing up the hole again. Last year the Cabbage and Cauliflower in our "trial grounds " were attacked by the Cabbage maggot at the roots early in May. A small handful of Peruvian guano was at once strewn around each plant and hoed in around the roots ; this at once started an unusual vigor of growth, wiiich sustained the plants until they matured excellent heads. Understand, the guano did not injure VEGETABLES— CABBAfJE AND TAULIFLOWER. IS? the insect; it only enabled the Cabbage to outgrow its attack. This season (1886), after plowing our Cabbage ground, we gave it a heavy dressing of lime, thick enough to almost completely whiten the ground. This was thoroughly harrowed in, and to further help against the attack of the maggot, after the plants had been set out three or four weeks, we removed the earth around the stem, and again sprinkled a little lime around it. This has completely stopped the attack of the maggots, for, in a portion of a neighbor's field adjoining, the mag- gots have nearly destroyed the crop. But one of the best preventives against the maggot is to plant early, so that the plants get strong enough to overcome their attack. Our market gardeners here rarely have trouble with their main early crops, which are planted last of March or first week in April. In our own trial grounds, having to wait until our samples come in, we do not get our seeds of early Cabbage and Cauli- flower sown until first week in March, which is a month too late, hence the liability of the too tender plants to the attack of the maggot. One of the most common mis- tak-cs of the inexperienced market gardener is, to delay the planting of early Cabbage too late. Many of them in this latitude delay planting until May, which, if the ground is dry enough to work, had .far better be done in April. For the destruction of the insect which causes the excrescence known as "club root" in Cabbage, a heavy dressing of lime in fall and spring will check it to a great extent. In fact, on lands adjacent to the shores of !New York Bay, where the soil is mixed with oyster shells, "club root" is rarely seen. Cabbage having been grown on some fields, successively, for fifty years, without a trace of it being seen, showing that the insect which causes the "club root" cannot exist in contact with lime ; for it is 158 GARDENING FOE PEOBIT. found on lands where there- is no oyster shell deposit, a quarter of a mile distant, where Cabbages cannot be grown two years in succession on the same land, unless heavily dressed with lime, and even then, it is always deemed safest never to plant Cabbages two years in succession on the same ground ; for, while such crops as onions show but little benefit by rotation with other crops, Cabbages perhaps more than anything else, are benefited by such alternation, and when it can be done, nothing is better than to let the Cabbage crop be alternated with a green crop, stich as German Jdllet, Timothy or Clover, or else a crop of Oats or Eye. This is the method pursued by many of the Long Island market gardeners, who grow for the Xew York market, where their lands are cheap enough to allow them to do so. But the gardeners of Hudson County, New Jersey, which is in sight of New York City, whose lands now are limited in area, and for which an average of 150 per acre rent is paid per annum, cannot well afford to let their lands lay thus comparatively idle, and, in consequence, do not now raise as fine crops as the lands thus ' ' rested " by the grass or grain crops. If the land for the Cabbage crop is of a kind suitttble to grow a good crop of Corn or Potatoes, and is tilled or fertilized in the manner advised, it is rare indeed tliat a crop will fail to head, if the plants are in good condition and have been properly planted, unless they are attacked by the maggot or "club root." In our trial ground, where over a hundred different sorts of Calibage are tested each year, we have found that every kind of Cab- bage tested, early or late, has produced solid heads, showing that when the conditions are right, all kinds of Cabbages will head up and produce a crop, tliough, of course, some arc earlier, larger and heavier than others — hence, the value of known selected kinds. A circumstance came under our notice in the summer VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 159 « of 1883, ■which well illustrates the necessity for care in planting. We had sold, some time in February, a large lot of oiir "Early Summer" Cabbage seed to two market gardeners in Kochester, K. Y. The orders were iilled from the same bag of seed. Som.e time about the end of June one of the market gardeners wrote, saying that ho had evi- dently got some spurious kind of Cabbage from us, as his neighbor was marketing his crop, while in his own field of ten acres, he had not a head fit to cut, nor was there any appearance of their ever being so, he thought. Inves- tigation showed that no Maggot, "club root," or other insect was affecting the roots ; the land was nearly iden- tical with that which had made a successful crop, and had been equally well manured and cultivated. So the only probable solution of the matter was, that the plants in the case of failure had been loosely planted and had failed to make a prompt start, as in the other case where the planting had been properly done, so that while the one lot advanced without a, check, the grouth of the other lot was arrested. This was undoubtedly the case, ■for there could be no cause for the difference unless on some such hypothesis. But there was a fortunate sequel to the case. It luckily happened that a heavy rainstorm occurred while the Cabbages were, yet in this unheaded condition. This started, as it were, a second growtli, which resultedmtheir forming splendid heads by August 1st, at a time when Cabbages were scarce, which, luckily for the owner, brought a much higher price than if they had matured at the proper season in June or July. The result was fortunate for us who had sold the seed, for had it not rained so opportunely, the crop might ■never have headed up, and it would then have been hard to convince the man that he had not been furnished with a spurious kind of seed. What has been advised for Cabbage crops, either early or late, is exactly the culture necessary for a crop of Cauliflower, except that Cauli- 160 GAEDEliriNG FOE PEOFIT. flower, being a plant of more delicate constitution, it re- quires to be more carefully handled ; for, where the Cabbage plants in the cold frames will safely keep over winter in this latitude with no covering but the glass sash. Cauliflower plants require the use of straw mats oyer the sashes, as the plant is much more easily hurt by frost. In fact, in our increased experience, we find that it is better not to keep the plants through the winter ; those sown in February and transplanted into cold frames in March, and planted in the open ground in April, as recommended in the Chapter headed "Spring liaising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce," doing rather better and costing much less in labor. The plants, however, must be started early enough, so that they can be set out not later than middle of April, for if not rooted well before warm weather sets in, they will either "button" — that is, form small stunted flowers — or else fail entirely to head up. Cauliflower delights in a cool atmosphere, and never does well when the season is hot and dry, unless complete irriga- tion can be given when the plant is about half grown. If this can be done the crop is certain. We ourselves grew in this manner nearly an acre for many j-ears, the crop selling for an average of Sl,aO0 per acre annually, and that was before we had introduced the now famous variety known as " Henderson's Early Snowball," which is ahead of all other kinds in its certainty to make a crop. The next in succession to this, is the " Early Erfurt," which is again succeeded by the "Early Paris," but neither of these in any respect is equal to the "Snowball." For late crop, the varieties known as "Algiers" and "Erfurt" are the kinds usually grown. The plants are obtained by sowing at the same dates as for late Cabbages. It is planted three feet each wav and cultivated exactly as late Cabbages and often sells as high as $^5 per 100 in jS'ovember and December. We are of VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFEOWEK. 161 the opinion, however, that the " Snowball," of .which twice the number can be grown per acre, will prove a more profitable crop even for late, than the " Algiers," as it is assuredly more certain to form heads. It is not once in twenty years that a variety of vegetables or fruit makes such an advance in earliness and quality as this "Snowball" Cauliflower, and we have much satis- faction in the knowledge that we were the first to bring it into cultivation about five years ago. It is now grown to almost the entire exclusion of all other early kinds of Cauliflower in this country, and hundreds have succeeded, both North and South, in raising a crop from this variety, who had previously completely failed with all other kinds. In Cauliflowers, as in Cabbages, it is folly to attempt the experiment of many kinds. Long experience has taught us that two or three of each for early and second early is all sufficient. Although our seed catalogues enumerate scores of kinds, gardeners who know what they are about, fight shy of all except those whose merit has been proved beyond any question of a doubt. Por this reason we only give the names of such as we knoiv to be the best. As yet nearly all OMiIiflower seed is imported, as we have not yet been successful in raising it here so as to give satisfactory results, our climate seeming to be un- suited for the growth of the seed. But Cabbage seed is almost exclusively grown here. Though the imported seed costs less than half the price, we rarely have found it safe enough to risk it for market garden crops ; the American grown Cabbage seeds should be exclusively used. 162 GARDENliq^G FOR PROFIT. VARIETIES OF CABBAGE— Early. Early Jersey Wakefield.— The first notoriety that this variety attained was when we first wrote " Gardening for Profit." That was nearly twenty years ago, and since then it has deservedly taken the first place as an early market variety. To most gTowers the merits and char- acteristics of the variety are so well known as to hardly need repeating here, but for the benefit of those who may not be familiar with it, we would say that it is univers- "''S^tuil p i a^- Fig. 25— EARLY JERSKT WAKEFIELD CABBAGE. ally considered the lesl early Cabbage in cultivation. Among its merits may bo mentioned its large size of head, small outside foliage, and its uniformity in producing a crop. The heads are pyramidal in sha]ic, having a blunted or rounded peak. A few years after the introduction of tlie Wakefield Cabbage, we found tliat it broke into over a dozen sub- yarietics, of varying size of leaf and shape of head, and, woi'se than all, of varying earliness. No matter how VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 163 carefully we selected the heads that we used for seed, the same difficulty occurred. A few miles inland, some- where near the Orange Mountain, New Jersey, we found that an old German was always ahead of us in having the first Wakefields in New York market, and these, too, of a uniformity in shape that none of us nearer the city could produce. All inducements to get him to sell seed were disregarded, and year after year he kept the lead. Several plans were laid to circumvent him, such as order- ing a hundred of his Cabbages with roots on. But old Carl was not to be caught so. He filled the order to the letter, making the buyer pay roundly for the roots, but took the liberty of first dipping them in boiling water ! But one day he invited a friend and countryman to see his wonderfiil Cabbages as they grew. This was a fatal day for Carl's monopoly, for his friend had his eyes about him. and observed that several of the stumps from which tlie earliest heads had been cut, were marked with a stake, as were a few of the choicest shape, as yet uncut. The secret was out. Carl's success had been gained by persistently, year after year, selecting the earliest and finest heads ; taking up the stumps from which they were cut, he planted them carefully, and, removing the young shoots produced from the stnmps, he treated them exactly as we treat cuttings of a flower; that is, by plant- ing the slip in the soil, watering it freely, and shading it until it rooted. After these cuttings or shoots of the Cabbage were rooted, they were planted in the usual Cab- bage-frame, covered with glass in winter, set out in, spring, like a plant from the seed, and next July ripened seed. This pi'ocess is too expensive and slow to follow for raising Cabbage seed in quantity, but it is now used by careful growers to produce pure and improved stock from which to raise seed. 164 GAKDEXIXG POR PEOFIT. Henderson's Early Summer. — This peerless variety originated witli Jlr. Abraham Xan Siclden, of Jamaica, Long Island, N". Y. , (to whom I paid $600 for twenty pounds of the seed), but was named and first introduced by me in 187i. The Early Summer heads about ten days later than the Jersey Wakefield, but being of over double the size, it may be classed as the best large early Cabbage. In weight it is equal to most of the late vari- Fig. 28. — hendekson's early sommee cabbage. eties, and its short outer leaves enable it to be jilanted as close as the Wakefield, or at the rate of about 10,000 to 12,000 to the acre, while the Early Flat Dutch, Wiu- ningstadt, etc. , producing no larger heads, can only be grown at the rate of 8,000 to the acre. It is equally valuable to use as a late sort, as, when sown and planted at the proper time for late Cabbage to be used in winter, we consider it. has no superior. rremicr, — A variety of quite recent introduction, exceedingly early, and much valued as a market sort. VEGETABLES— CABBAGE. 165 The heads are somewhat smaller than the Wakefield, but, as it forms very small outer leaves, it can be planted one- third closer — fifteen or eighteen inches apart each way, or from 14,000 to 16,000 to the acre. Early Winniiigstadt. — This is really a second early variety, coming in about three weeks later than any of the above. It is an excellent sort, however, where first earliness is not the object, as it heads uniformly and is of large size, often weighing twenty pounds. It is a dis- tinct variety; head pyramidal, the outer leaves spiral and spreading. It requires to be planted wider than the early sorts. For this reason, together with its compara- tive lateness, it is not a favonte in gardens where two crops are grown in one season. Early Flat Dutch. — A very dwarf variety, having large round heads, almost flat on top. It. is a very excel- lent varisty for a succession crop, being two or three weeks behind the earliest sorts, but is now almost sup- planted by the Early Summer. CABBAGE.— Late. Selected Late Flat Dutch.— (See figure 27.) An excellent standard variety, making large fiat heads, very solid, and an excellent keeper for late winter use. Al- though it gi'ows larger than the "Early Summer," yet as it has to be planted one-third wider apart, it gives no more Y^eight per acre. It is very largely grown as an early fall sort. It is very tender and of excellent flavor, and is largely used for Sauer Kraut. Fattler's Improved Brunswick. — A second early and late variety, used originally by the Boston gardeners, but which is now cultivated quite generally all over the country. It produces large heads of excellent quality. 166 GARDESTKG FOE PROFIT. Marblehead Slammoth Drumlicad. — Probably the largest variety of Cabbage in cultivation, specimens often growing to weigh sixty pounds. In good soil and with proper culture it will average thirty pounds. The heads are round and somewhat irregular in shape. It should be cultivated with the jilants four feet apart each way. Fildcr Kraut. — This resembles the Winningstadt, but FiS- 27.— SELECTED I.ATE PLAT DUTCH CABBAGE. IS larger and more pointed. Also largely grown for Sauer Kraut. American Drumhead Savoy.— This is the largest of the Savoy class, and is the sort most generally cultivated for market. The head is large, spherical, verv solid, compact and of a yellowish-green color, and, like all of the Savoy varieties, is of excellent flavor, far surpassing that of any other late Cabbage. Still, such is the force of habit, that the public do not purchase one Savoy for every thousand of the coarse Drumhead Cabbages, £l- VEGETABLES — CAULIFLOWER. 167 3i^Si though the difference in quality between the two is as great as between the fox grape of the woods and the cultivated Delaware. Grown in fall and al- lowed to be touched by frost, it is one of the most delicious of all vegetables. (See figure 38.) Red Dutch.— This is used almost exclu- si vely for pickling. It is one of the hardiest of all Cabbages, and when preserved as di- rected for the others, will keep later in the season than any of them. It is slow to mature, however, and requires a richer soil for its perfect development. Mammoth Rock Red. — A new large-growing selected strain of the old Eed Cabbage, the heads of which will average twelve pounds each. Fig. 28.- -AMERICAN DRUMHEAD CABBAGE. CAULIFLOWER. As the cultivation of Cauliflower is almost identical with that of Cabbage, and as these are two of the most important of all crops to the market gardener, very full instructions are given under " How to grow Cabbage and Cauliflower," on page 51. Headerson's Early Snowball.— (See figure 29). This variety, introduced six years ago by me, is now the lead- ing early variety. We have found it to be not only the 168 GARDEXIXa rOK PROFIT. earliest of all Cauliflowers, but it is more certain to- make a bead than any other variety we have ever grown. SoiL'n llarch 1st iu our trial grounds in Jersey City (which, however, is a month too late), at the same time and under the same conditions with other kinds, heads of the Early Snowball measuring nine inches in diameter have been ready to market by June lOtli, one week before any other sort. From its dwarf growth and short outer leaves, this variety has been found to be peculiarly well adapted for forcing under glass, and for this purpose no other vai'iety is now so largely grown. It is also begin- ning to be used for the fall crop of Cauliflower, for which Fig. 29. — nENDERSON'S EARLY SNOWBAU, CATOTFLOWER. it is equally well adapted as for the early crop. From 12,000 to 13,000 are planted on an acre. This variety is a very shy seed-bearer, and tlie consequent high price of the seed has induced unprincipled dealers in many sections of the country to substitute .'spurious sorts. In our trial jiTOunds we found that ni a test of ten of these samples purporting to be the true " Snowball," not one was correct, and nearlv all were worthless. VEGETABLES — CAEUOOX. 1G9 Extra Early Bwarf Erfurt.— This fine sort is a dwarf, compact, growing kind, producing uniformly large heads. The leaves grow larger and not so close as the Snowball, besides it is not so early. Extra Early Paris. — This well-known variety is equally meritorious in all respects with the Erfurt, ex- cept that it requires more space to grow in, as it forms larger heads. Half Early Paris or NoHpareil.— A useful variety for succession crop. The difficulty with Cauliflowers for market is, that the whole crop comes in and must be sold in a space of two or three weeks, unless we have a suc- cession of varieties. Lc IVorraand's Short Stemmed. — A large late variety, producing well-formed heads of excellent quality. Large Late Algiers. — An excellent late variety, now coming into very general favor on Long Island, New York, and other Cauliflower-growing districts. Enor- mous quantities of this variety, are annually grown for market and pickling, with varying results, sometimes selling as high as $35 per 100, and again as low as $3. It is usually planted quite wide — three by three feet each way — and worked by horse cultivation. It is a good plan to break and turn down the leaves of Cauliflower over the head as it is developed. This not only keeps it whiter, but prevents its spreading. CAS.SOON, — (Cynara Cardunculus.) A vegetable that is but little grown, and grown oftener as a novelty than for use. It belongs to the same family as the Artichoke, which it much resembles. The leaf stems, after blanching, are used in soups or in sal- ads. It is cultivated by sowing the seeds in early spring. 170 GARDENIKG FOR PKOPIT. thinly, in rows three feet 'apart, and thinning out to ei^teen inclies between the plants. The plant attains its growth in early fall, when it is blanched by tying the leaves together so as to canse an erect growth, after which it is earthed up, and preserved exactly as we do Celery. CARROT!.— (Daucus Carota). This may be classed more as a crop of the farm than of the garden, as a far larger area is grown for the food of horses and cattle than for culinary purposes. Yet it is a salable vegetable in our markets, and by no means an unprofitable one to grow on lands not too valuable. It is not necessary that the land for this crop should be highly enriched. I have grown on sod land (which had been turned over in fall), 300 barrels per acre, without a particle of manure, and three years after, and on the same land, which had been brought up to our market garden standard of fertility, a very inferior crop; the land being too Vicli, induced a growth of ti)ps rather than roots. In our mal'ket gardens, we sow in rows fourteen inches apart, thinning out to three or four inches between the plants ; but on farm lands, where space is not so valuable, they should be planted eighteen or twenty-four inches between the rows, and worked with the cultivator. For early crops, we sow at the beginning of our first operations in spring, in the same manner as we sow Beets, as soon as the ground is thoroughly dry ; hut for later crops, they may be sown any time in this latitude until the middle of June. This is one of the vegetables that requires a close watching to see that it does not get enveloped with weeds, as, in its early stage, it is of com- paratively feeble growth, and unless it is kept clean from the start, it is apt to be irrevocably injured. VEGETABLES — CARROT. 171 The usually pTescribed quantity of seed per acre is five pounds, but I have always oonsldered it safer to sow nearly double that quantity. In dry weatlier it germi- nates feebly, and not infrequently, when seed comes up thinly, it is scorched ofE by the hot sun, and the saving of a few pounds of seed may entail the loss of half the crop. "We prefer to sow all such crops by hand, though for field culture on a large scale, the seed drill should be used. In all cases tread in the seed — see "Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting," Chapter 13 — to which, even at the risk of repetition, I again beg to call atten- tion. The Carrot, like all other root crops, delights in a sandy loam, deeply tilled. Considerable quantities of the early varieties are sold in our markets in bunches, in a half-grown state, at prices equal to early Beets sold in the same manner. Sold in this state, they are highly profitable at the prices received, but only limited quan- tities can be disposed of. In the dry state, during fall and winter, they range from 11.50 to $2 per barrel, according to quality, and at these prices will yield double the profit of Potatoes as a farm crop. The varietes in general cultivation are limited. The favorite variety for all purposes is the Early French Forcing.— The earliest variety, and one largely grown for forcing purposes. It makes a small, almost globe-shaped root, flian orange-red color. Early Scarlet Horiii — An old and favorite sort for an early crop, but not large enough to be suitable for general culture. It is one of the varieties that is bunched and sold in our markets in a green state. It matures eight to ten days earlier than the Long Orange, and is some- times used for forcing. Half Lonf? Ked (St!imi> Rooted).— (See figure 30.) At this time this variety is more largely grown for the New 173 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. llrsh red or York market than any other, and is the finest of the early sorts. It is intermediate in size and time of maturity between the Early Scarlet Horn and the Long Orange. Early Half Lous; Scarlet (Pointed Rooted).— I'lic only difference between this ami the preceding variety is that it lias a pointed instead of a slump or blunt root. Early Half l.ons; Scarlet Carcntan. — A distiuet vai-iely, almost cylindrical, -with few and very smal skin is smooth, without any cori' heart. It is exe lent for forciu and for fine quality s and perfect shape-. can hardly be sur- passed. Lon^Oranj^e Im- proved. — (See liu- ure 31.) This is eqnally adapted fnr market and family use. It is of large ^'«- "^•' . . ° LONG BED STl'MP- ORANOE IM- Sizc, lair specimens footed carrot, proved carrot, averaging twelve inches in length, with a diameter of three inches at the top; color, orange red, varying in depth of shade in dif- erent soils. Paiivcrs. — (See figure 33.) The color of this valu- able sort, which is of comparatively recent introduction. VEGETABLES — CHEKVIL. 173 is a rich shade of orange. In shape it is midway be- tween the Early Scarlet Horn and the Long Orange. Under the best cultivation, it is said to have yielded from twenty-five to thirty tons of roots per acre. Large White Belsfiaiii — The most productive of all varieties. The root is white ; that part growing above ground, and exposed to the air, green. It is exclusively grown for stock, bearing nearly twice as much in weight per acie as the Long Orange. Horses do not eat it quite so readily, however, and it is said to be less nutritious than the red or orange sorts. Yellow Bclgiaili — Similar to above ; color, yellow. CHERVIL.— Turnip-booted,— (C7ia3rop%Hi«m bulbosum.) A vegetable of recent introduction, closely allied to the Parsnip, which it resembles in shape. It is of a grayish color ; the flesh is white and mealy, tasting something like the Sweet Potato. It is equally as hardy as. the Parsnip, and in France, where it has been culti- vated to a considerable extent, is said to iiave yielded six tons per acre. It is one of the many plants tliat were experimented with in Europe as a substitute for the Potato, when it was feared that that tuber would be lost to us by disease. Its culture is in all respects similar to the Parsnip or Carrot ; it is entirely hardy in any lati- tude, and is rather improved by the action of the frost. It must be sown as early in spring as tlie soil is fit to work, it being slow to germinate if the weather becomes hot and dry. 174: GAKDEiS'ING FOR PROFIT. GELERT. — {Apium, graveolens.) I know of no vegetable upon which so much nnneees- sary labor is expended with such unsatisfactory results as Celery. Many private cultivators still think ic necessary to dig out trenches, from six to twelve inches deep, involving great labor and expense, and giving a crop very inferior to that planted on the level surface, in the man- ner practiced on hundreds of acres by the market garden- ers in the vicinity of New York. Our manner of treating the Celery crop is now very simple. Instead of sowing the seed in a hot-bed or cold frame, which is the European plan, but not practicable here (unless when on such soils as the muck deposits at Kalamazoo, Michigan), owing to the tendency of plants thus sown to run to seed, the seed is sown in the open ground as soon as that is fit to work in spring — here about first week in April — on a level piece of rich mellow soil, that has been specially prepared by thorough pul- verizing and mixing with short stable manure. I have had large experience in growing Celery plants, as our demand for the plants often reaches 2,000,000 of plants in a season, and we never fail in getting a crop by rigidly adhering to the following simple method. The bed being fined down by raking, so that it is clear of stones and all inequalities, lines arc drawn out by the " marker" eight or nine inches apart, in beds of eight' rows 111 each, rubbing out every ninth mai'k for an alley, on which to walk when weeding, etc. The seed should be sown rather thinly, one ounce being sufficient for twenty feet m length of such a bed, or about 150 feet of row. The seed is sown by hand in the rows : after the sower follows a man who evenly presses down the seed in the drill with the feet. That done, the back of a rake is drawn lightly lengthwise of the bed, which slightly cov- YEGETABLES— CELERY. 175 ers the seed to the average depth of something less than half an inch. After this, the bed is still further firmed and levelled by being rolled, or in small areas evenly patted down with the back of a spade. As soon as the seeds of Celory begin to germinate, so that the rows can be traced, hoe lightly between the rows, and begin to pull out the weeds as soon as they can be seen. One day's Avork, at the proper time, will be better than a dozen after the seed-bed gets enveloped with weeds, besides insuring much finer plants. As the plants advance in growth, the tops are shorn off, generally twice before the time of setting out, so as to induce a stooky growth ; plants thus treated suffer less on being transplanted. This plan of shearing off the tops we practice with Cabbage, Cauliflower and many other kinds of plants to induce stocky growth. The time of planting out in the Northern States may i-un from June 15th to the end of July, and in the South- ern States from August 15th to the end of September. In this section, we prefer to plant in July, as there is but little gained by attempting it early. In fact, I have often seen plants raised in hot-beds and planted out in June, far surpassed both in size and quality by those raised in the open ground and planted a month later. The great difficulty experienced in the Southern States is, in raising the plants ; for, if sown in Marcli or April, as we do here, the high temperature and dry atmosphere either kill the plants outright, or so shrivel them up that they never start to make a free growth. By sowing about the middle of August in extreme Southern States, sliading with the protecting cloth sashes, already rcl'erred to, in hot days from 9 a. m. to 4 p. u., and planting out the end of September, a fair crop of Celery may be obtained in the late fall and early winter months. The plants are sometimes spe- cially grown at the North for planting at the South, but 176 GAUDENIXG FOR PROFIT. in all such cases they must be plants grown from sowings made in June or Jul}', for if grown at the North at the usual season, they would not answer, as they would become so large that tbey would require to be planted out before the end of July, and in most of the Southern States, if planted then, they could not stand the long- continued high temperature and dry atmosphere of August and September. It is doubtful if this special growing of plants is likely to be done, and our friends at the South must submit to paying us for our Celery already grown, Just as we must submit to have the cream of our profits taken ofE by their early supply of spring vegetables. It is a geographical condition of culture that both sections must accept. In almost all the early vegetables, the first supplies come from Southern gardens, thus anticipating our crops by some weeks ; while Celery is one of the very few things with which we can compete with our Southern friends in their own markets. Celery is a plant requiring a cool, moist atmosphere, and it is nonsense to attempt to grow it early in our hot and dry climate, unless under climate and soil specially adapted, which is found in the vicinity of Kalamazoo, Michigan, Horse Heads, Kew Yoi'k, and some other similar localities, where there is a rich vegetable deposit on level bottom lands. But even when grown, it is not a vegetable that is ever very jialatable until cool weather. This our market experience well proves, for, although we always have a few bunches exposed for sale in July and August, there is not one root sold at that time for a thousand that are sold in October and November, ("elery is always grown by us as a " second crop ; '' that is, it follows after the spring crop of Beets, Onions, Cabbage. Cauliflower, Peas or early Potatoes, which are cleared ofE and marketed, at latest, by the middle of July. VERETABLES — CELERY. 177 The ground is then thoroughly plowed and harrowed. No additional manure is used, as enough remains in the ground from the heavy coat it has received in the spring, to carry through the crop of Celery. After the ground has been nicely prepared, lines are struck out on the level surface tlii'ce feet apart, and the plants set six inches apart in the rows. If the weather is dry at the time of planting, great care should be taken that the roots are properly " firmed." Our custom is to turn back on the row, and press by the side of each plant fig. 33. — CCLLBT AriLE " H.\NDI.INC.'' gently with the foot. This compacts the soil and par- tially excludes the air from the root until new rootlets are formed, which will usually be in forty-eight hours, after which all danger is over. This practice of pressing the soil closely around the roots is essential in planting of all kinds, and millions of plants are annually destroyed by its omission. After the planting of the Celery is com- pleted, nothing further is to be done for six or seven weeks, except running through between the rows with the cultivator or hoe, and freeing the plants of weeds until they get strong enough to crowd them down. This will bring us to about the middle of August, by which 1?8 GAKDEXIlTfJ 3?0E PEOFIT. time we usually have, especially at night, that moist and cool atmosphere essential to the growth of Celery. Then we begin the "earthing up" necessary for blanching or whitening that which is wanted for use dur- ing the months of September, October and November. The first operation is that of "handling," as we term it ; that is, after the soil has been drawn up against the plant with the hoe, it is further drawn close around eaeli plant by the hand, firm enough to keep the leaves in an upright .1tr^%|f i X ' . i m Fig. 3i. — OELEBY EARTHED UP. position, and prevent them from spreading, which will leave tliem as shown in figure 33. This being done, more soil is drawn against the row, cither by the plow or hoe, as circumstances require, so as to keep the plant in this upright position. The blanch- ing process must, however, be finished by the spade, which is done by digging the soil from between the rows and banking it up clear to the tojp on each side of the row of Celery, as in figure 34. Three feet is ample distance between the dwarf vari- eties, but when "Seymour's Superb," "Giant White Solid," or other large sorts are used, though they are now rarely grown, the width between the rows nuist be TEGETABLES — CELERY. 179 at least four and a half or five feet, which entails much more labor and loss of ground. For the past fifteen years no Celery but the dwarf yarieties is grown in our vicinity, which saves in consequence at least one-half iu labor and one-third in ground, while the average price per root in market has been always equal to, and occasionally higher, than for the tall growing sorts. Nearly all market gardeners have at last got their eyes opened to the value of the dwarf sorts, and I think that a few years more will suflice to throw the large and coarse-flavored sorts, such as "Seymour's Superb" and " (Jiant White Solid," out of our markets. The preparation of the soil and planting of Celery for tointer use is the same in all respects, except that what is intended for winter need never be "banked up " with the spade. It merely requires to be put through the handling process to bring it into a compact and upright position preparatory to being stowed away in winter quarters. This should not be done before the middle of Septem- ber, or just long enough before the Celery is dug up to keep it in the upright position. We have, however, another method which we have found to answer very well for the late crop, and it is one by which more roots can be grown on the same space and with less labor than by any other. It is simply to plant the Celery one foot apart, each tvay, nothing farther be- ing required .after planting, except twice or thrice hoeing to clear the crop of weeds until it grows enough to cover the ground. No handling or earthing up is required by this method, for, as the plants struggle for light, they naturally assume an upright position, the leaves all assuming the perpendicular instead of the horizontal, which is the condition essential before it is put into win- ter quarters. This method is not quite so general with us as planting in rows, and it is, perhaps, better adapted for private gardens than for market. As the plant is 180 GARDENING POR PROFIT. more excluded from the air, the root hardly attains as much thickness as by the other plan. We are often asked for the cause of and remedy for Celery rusting or burning. The cause, we think, is the condition of the weather, which destroys the tender fibers or what are called the " working roots '" of the plant, for we find it usually worse in seasons of extreme drouth or moisture, particularly in warm weather. We know of no remedy, nor do we believe there is any. We may say, however, that it is less liable to appear on new fresh soils, that are free from acids or sourness, than on old soils that have been surfeited with manure and have had no rest. Although, under ordinary conditions, if proper vari- eties of Celery are used, the crop should never be pithy or hollow, yet wo have found that now and then even the most solid kinds of Celery have become more or less hol- low when planted in soft loose soils, suck as reclaimed peat bogs, where the soil is mostly composed of leaf mould. In fact, on heavy or clayey soils, the Celery will be specifically heavier than on lighter soils. Our manner of preserving Celery during the winter is now very simple, but as the knowledge of the process is not yet universally known to market gardeners in all sections of the country, I will endeavoi- to put it plain enough, so that my readers "may go and do likewise." In this locality we begin to dig up that which we intend for winter use about the end of October, and continue the work (always on dry days) until the 20th or 25th of November, which is as late as we dare risk it out for feai- of frost. Let it be understood that Celery will stand quite a sharp frost, say ten or even fifteen degrees, while twenty or twenty-five degrees will destroy it. Hence, ex- perience has taught us that the sharp frosts that we usu- ally have during the eai'ly part of ISiovember rarely hurt it (unless in rare cases where we have had an unusual VEGETABLES — CELERY. 181 warm spell succeeded by sharp frost), though often caus- ing- it to droop flat on the ground, until thawed out by the sun. It must, however, never be touched when in the frozen state, or it is almost certain to decay. The ground in which it is placed for wiuter use should be as dry as possible, or if not dry, so arranged that no water will remain in the trench. The trench should be dug as narrow as possible, not more than ten or twelve inches wide, and of the depth exactly of the height of the Cel- ery ; that is, if the plant of the Celery be two feet in length, the depth of the drain or trench should be two Fi^. 35.— CELERY STORED FOE WINTER. feet also. The Celery is now placed in the trench as nearly perpendicular as possible, so as to fill it up entirely, its green tops being on a level with the toj) of the trench. Figure 35 represents a section across trenches filled with. Celery in the manner just described. No earth whatever is put to the roots other than what may adhere to them after being dug up. It being closely packed together, there is moisture enough always at the bottom of the trebch to keep this plant, at the cool season of the year, from wilting, and also to induce it to form new white roots, which must be formed before the Celery will blanch. That which is put in trenches about the 25tb 183 G.VKDEXING FOR PROFIT. of October is usually ready to be taken up for use about the 1st of December ; that a couple of weeks later, by 1st of January ; and the last (which we try always to defer to the 15th or 20th of November), may be used dur- ing the winter and until the 1st of April. For the first lot no covering is required, but that for use during the winter months must be gradually covered up until the middle of December, or until the 1st of January, when it will require at least a foot of covering of some light, dry material — hay, straw, or leaves — the latter perhaps the best. I have said the covering up should be gradual. This is very important ; for if the full weight of cover- ing is put on at once it prevents the passing off of the heat generated by the closely packed mass of Celery, and in consequence it to some extent "heats," and decay takes place. Covered up in this manner, it can be got out with ease during the coldest weather in winter, and with perfect safety. These dates of operations, like all others named throughout this work, are for this latitude ; the cultivator must use his judgment carefully in this matter, to suit the section in which he is located. For market gardeners, and others who have large quan- tities, this is the best method of storing ; but for smaller growers, either for sale or for private use, quite a quan- tity may be preserved in any cellar where there is no furnace or other iire heat. Wlion a few hundred roots only are to be stored it can b:' placed in narrow boxes, say nine inches wide, four or six feet in length, and of a deptli a little less than the height of the Cclerv. A few inches of sand or soil is placed on the bottom of the box, but none must be put between the stalks of the Celery, and the Celery is packed in the box upright, the roots being placed on the sand at the bottom ; tlie Celery must be packed in as tight as possible, but without bruising. Boxes thus packed and stood on the cool floor of the cellar, if put away in Kovem- VEGETABLES — CELEKY. l»d ber, will be "blanched" fit for use during Jannury, February, and March. If pat in sooner than No- vember it will blanch earlier, and if stored later it will keep later. If larger ([uantities are to be kept in the cellar, the cheapest practicable way to do so is to begin at one side next the wall, furthest from the entrance, and erect boards across the cellar, nine inches from the wall, and of a height a little less than the length of the Celery — that is, if the Celery is twenty-four inches in length, the boarding may be eighteen or twenty inches high. In this narrow division the Celery is packed in upright, as above described for packing in boxes. As soon as the first tier is filled, erect another board trench or division at nine inches distant from the first, and so on until the whole space to be used is filled up. It will be understood that no soil or sand is packed between the stalks of Celery, only two or three inches being strewn on the floor, on which the roots are placed. Simultane- ously with the formation of the white rootlets the blanch- ing process begins, which is simply the plant making an effort to grow in the dark, and thus becoming blanched or whitened. We have sometimes complaints that Celery fails to blanch or whiten. In all such cases the roots must have been in some way injured by being frozen or dried too much while being lifted from the field, but this should never happen with ordinary care. A cellar or root-house twenty by twenty feet, so packed, will hold from 3,000 to 5,000 roots of Celery, according to their size. Care must be taken not to get the board partitions forming the trenches, or divisions between the tiers of Celery, more than nine or ten inches apart, for if at much greater distance the stems and leaves would be in too large masses and would generate heat and rot. As the cellar or root-house is usually a damp and dark apartment, there will generally be no necessity to water the Celery after it is pa'cked. Every means of ventilation 184 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. should be used, even in cold weather, for it must always be borne in mind that Celery is a vegetable that will stand quite a sharp frost without injury, so if the temperature of the cellar falls five or six degrees below the freezing point, no injury will be done. When Celery or other vegetables are packed away for preservation in cellars or in the open field, it is indispensable that no water be allowed to lodge in the pit or trench ; so that in the event of using a cellar or root-house for this purpose, a matter of first importance is thorough drainage, iu soils where drainage is necessary. Eegarding the profits of this crop I can speak from a ■very extensive experience in its culture, having cultivated at one time, an average of ten acres for eighteen years. For many years, in the early part of that time, it was by no means what we would now call a profitable crop. By persisting in raising the large growing sorts, and the awkward and expensive mode we had then of working it, we were satisfied if it gave us a profit of 150 or $75 per acre. But for the last twenty years, by adopting the flat culture, and the drain or trench system for winter stor- age, it has done much better, and is now a very profitable " second crop," averaging a clear profit of $250 per acre, though it rarely brings here over 12.50 per 100 roots. No doubt, in many parts of the country, it is much more profitable than iu the crowded markets of New York. It is shipped from here in all directions — to Philadelphia (largely), Baltimore ard Washington (South), and to Newport, Providence, Hartford and New Haven (East). It is a bulky and expensive article to ship, and the dealer must realize more than double on the purchase, or it will not pay his risk. It must thus cost the consumer, in those towns to which we send it, seven or eight cents per head, a price at which it would pay a clear profit of $1,000 or $1,500 per acre. If the awkward and laborious systems of cultivation VEG ETABLES — CELEEY. 185 still persisted in for the growing of Celery are a mistake, the contimied use of the tall growing and coarse varieties •we believe to be even a far greater one. The kinds that are offered in European catalogues are many, but in the whole list there are but few that are desirable for the market gardener or for private gardens. The climate of Eng- land is much more fa- vorable to the growth of Celery than that of our country, and every year new varie- ties are offered there, of which only now and then one proves of permanent value, but with the majority the diffei'ences are mainly in the name The following kinds, some of them of very recent introduction, arc great improve- ments on the sorts grown a dozen years ago: Henderson's fiolden !»warf. — (See figure 3G.) This is now th^ leading variety, not only around New York, but in nearly all parts of the country. In the great Celery-growing district of Kalamazoo, Michigan, it is the variety that is planted almost exclusively. In size and habit of growth it is much the same as the Half Dwarf and Dwarf White kinds, except that when blanched, the heart is of a waxy Fig. 36.— Henderson's golden dwakf CELERJ. 18(3 GAKDENING FOB PROPIT. golden yellow, rendering it a most attractive and showy variety for either market or private use. It is entirely solid, of excellent flavor, and one of the best keepers dur- ing winter. It originated with us from a chance seed- ling, about fifteen years ago. Fig. 37.— WHITE PLUMB CELEBT, AS PUT UP rOR THE NEW YORK MARliET. Wliitc IMiinic— (iSeo figure 37.) This variety presents characteristics so different from what we have been accus- tomed to find in Celery that it merits the rather extended description which follows. The peculiarity of the vari- ety is, that its stalk and portions of its inner leaves wA VEGliTABLES — CELERY. 187 heart are naturally white, so that by closing the stalks, either by tying them up with matting or by simply drawing the soil up against the plant and pressing it together with the hands, and again drawing up the soil with the hoe or plow, so as to keep the soil that has been squeezed against the Celery in its place, the work of blanching is completed ; while it is well known that in all other varieties of Celery, in addition to this, the slow and troublesome process of "banking" or "earthing up " with a spade is necessary. Another merit of this variety is that it far excels any known vegetable as an ornament for the table, the inner leaves being disposed somewhat like an ostrich feather, which suggested its name. It is also, wo think, the earliest Celery in culti- vation, and when to all these valuable characteristics is added that its eating qualities are equal to the very best of the older sorts, being crisp, solid and possessing a rich, nutty flavor, it is but little wonder that the White Plume should have secured in so short a time a permanent place in cultivation. It should be stated, hoT\ever, that this variety never whitens in a young state, and usually only begins to show its self blanching character when tlie growth begins in the cool weather. When I first sent out the White Plume Celery in 1884, I imagined from its having the stems and leaves white, that it would not keep in winter, and so stated, but further trial has shown that it keeps nearly as well as any of the other kinds. Henderson's Half Dwarf.— (See figure 38). Except the Golden Dwarf, this variety is now grown more ex- tensively than any other by the market gardeners who supply the New York markets, and is now found on the tables of all first-class hotels. AVhen blanched it is a yellowish white, making it very ornamental for the table. It is entirely solid and possesses a rich, nutty flavor, while it has much vigor of growth, surpassing 188 GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. .0::-- most of the largo growing sorts in weight of bunch when grown under the same conditions. Sandringbam. — Under good cultivation this variety attains a height of two feet and a cir- cumference of twelve inches. It is perfectly solid, the stalks half round, the leaves and stems being rather light green. When blanched it is a yellowish white, crisp, tender and of very fine flavor. The great advantage of this, as will as the other dwarf sorts, over the large kinds, is that nearly every part of the plant is fit to eat wlien blanched. For instance, if in the dwarf varieties the length is only two feet and in the large sorts three feet, the extra length of the large sort is unfit for use, being usually only an elongation of the outer leaves, the heart or edible part rarely rising more than eighteen inches in the large sorts, while the dwarf sorts may be said to be all heart. This variety in this section seems to have more tendency to blight or rust than any other kinds ; l)iit where it can be grown with- out tills difficiiKy, as it can be in such soils as at Kalamazoo, Michigan, I think it has no equal. Bostou Market. — A great favorite around Boston and -HENBEnSOH'S HALF DWABF OELEBT. VEGETABLES — CELERY. 189 similar to the Dwarf Wliite, but rather more robust. •The leaves are a'darker green, the stalks when blanched are nearly white. It is an excellent yariety, solid, crisp and tender. Giant White Solid. — The best of the large growing ^orts, attaining a height, under good cultivation, of three Fig. 39. — OELEEIAO. feet. It should never be planted closer than four feet between the rows, or it cannot be properly worked. For southern sections of the country this variety is more suitable than the dwarf sorts, as it grows freer in a hot and dry atmosphere. SlendersoH's Rose. — The superiority in flavor, as a rule, of the red or rose Celeries over the white sorts, is much better understood in England (where the majority of Celery grown is red), than with us. For some unexplained reason, the red Celeries have not sold 190 GARDENING FOE PEOFIT. well in our markets. This cannot long be, however, as when once grown they will never be given up, not only for their superior flavor and crispness, but for their far better keeping qualidcs. This variety is one of the best I have ever seen. Major Clark's Pink, — Another excellent variety among the red sorts. It is of medium growth, stiff, close habit, large heart, solid, crisp and of fine walnut flavor. CELERIAC, OR TURmP-ROOTED CELERY. (Apium graveolens. Var. ) This, flgure 31t, is grown from seeds sown in the same manner, and planted out at the same times as directed for Celery ; but as it requires but a slight earthing np, ^.f^l^ it is planted closer than ordinary Celer} ; eiglit- een inches between the rows and six inches be- tween the plants. It is pi'eserved for winter use in shallow trenches, and covered up as the season advances, as directed for Celery. It is as yet grown to but a limited extent here, being used only by the French and Germans. The turnip- like root is cooked, or it is sliced and used with vinegar, making a most excellent salad. Dwarf Apple Shaped,— (See figure 40). This com- paratively new variety is now the main kind grown. Fig. 40.— DWARF *PPLE-SHAPED CELEKIO. VEGETABLES — CHIVES — COKN SALAD — CKESS. 191 CHIVES. — (Allium Schcenoprasum.) A small bnlbous-rooted plant of the Onion tribe, en- tirely hardy and of the easiest culture, as it will grow on almost any soil for many years without renewal. It is propagated by division of the root, and may be planted at nine or ten inches apart ; the leaves are the parts used, which may be repeatedly shorn off during the early summer months. They are sometimes used in soups, but more generally in the raw state. CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS.HJfedia olitoria.) A vegetable used as a salad and sold to a considerable extent in our markets. It is sown on the first opening of spring in rows one foot apart, and is fit for use in six or eight weeks from time of sowing. If wanted to come in early in spring it is sown in September, covered up with straw or hay as soon as cold weather sets in, and is wintered over exactly as Spinach. The covering is re- moved in March or April when it starts to grow, and is one of our first green vegetables in spring. It is also grown to a large extent by the German gardeners on iiew York Island in cold frames. CRESS, OR PEPPER Gi^ASS.—{Lepidmm sativum.) Another early spring vegetable, used as a salad, and of easy culture. It is sown in early spring in rows one foot apart ; as it runs quickly to seed, succession sowings should be made every eight or ten days. There are sev- eral varieties, but the kind in general use is the Curled, which i3 used for garnishing as well as for salads. 193 GARDENING FOfi PROFIT. CRESS— WATER.— (iVixsiMT-imm officinale.) This is a well-known hardy perennial aquatic plant, growing abundantly al'ong the margins of running streams, ditches and ponds, and sold in immense quanti- ties in our markets in spring. Where it does not grow naturally, it is easily introduced by planting along the margins of ponds or streams, where it quickly increases, both by spreading of the root and by seeding. Many a farmer in the -vicinity of New York realizes more profit from the Water Cresses, cut from the margin of a brook running through his farm in two or three weeks in spring, than from his whole year's hard labor in growing Corn, Hay or Potatoes. "Water Cress can be best cultivated in places where the streams run through a level tract. Supposing the stream to be a foot deep on an average, and six or eight feet wide, running thrdugh a meadow, a good plan for culti- vation is to make excavations laterally, say in beds five feet wide (with five foot alleys between), to a deptli of about eight inches, or deep enough to be flooded by the stream when it is of average height, or when shallow, by damming it up so as to flood the beds. The advantage of having the beds excavated at right angles to the stream rather than parallel with it is, that iu the event of freshets the crop is less liable to be washed away. The length and number of the beds excavated must, of course, be determined by circumstances. Water Cress seeds germinate freely in earth when kept saturated ; hence the beds, when properly levelled and pulverized by digging and raking, should be slightly flooded — enough to only saturate the soil until the seeds germinate, for, of course, if the beds were filled up with water, the seeds would be washed ofi;. After the seed- lings have started so as to show green, the water may be gradually let on as they develop. The best time of sowing the seed for the latitude of VEGETABLES — CKESS. 193 New York, for spring, is about the middle of April ; for fall, about the middle of August. I advocate that seeds of all plants of this description should be sown iu rows a foot or so apart, as the seed is small and germinates freely, so that three or four pounds will be enough for an acre. It should be cultivated exactly as Spinach is. When Water Cress is found growing naturally, the beds can be made by setting the plants six or twelve inches apart each way. When the cultivation is once fairly be- gun, there is no difficulty about forming new beds, as few plants grow more rapidly when proper conditions are present. After the crojD is planted or sown, in two months it will have spread all over the beds. The streams being full in autumn, the beds will be fully flooded so as to protect the plants during winter. It is always found growing best wild, in clear, shallow, slowly-running water, with a sandy or gravelly bottom ; and as nature is always the surest guide to successful cultivation, the nearer it can be imitated the better the success. I find it is one of the plants the culture of which is not very easy to give by writing, as so much must be de- termined by the circumstances of locality. Wherever a suitable stream is at command, the experiment of growing Water Cress is worthy of trial, especially when we know that it in many cases pays, for a given area, six or eight times more than any other vegetable cultivated, provided it can be sold in the markets of New York or Philadelphia. It is usually sold in baskets containing about three quarts, which sell, when first in market, at fifty cents each ; 200 or 300 such are carried in an ordinary wagon, so that from a single load of this simple vegetable, $100 to $300 are realized. The Water Cress has a particularly pleasant pungent taste, agreeable to most people in early spring. 194 GARDENING FOK PEOFIT. It is said that when Sir Josejjh Banks first arrived in England after his voyage around the world, among the first things he asked for were Water Cresses, well know- ing their value as a jiurifier of the blood ; and that lie afterwards presented one of the largest Water Cress growers for the London market, a Banksian Medal, for energy shown in the business, believing that while he had benefited himself he had benefited the community. I have no doubt whatever that in situations where irri- gation could be used at pleasure, and regular planta^ tions made, as for Cranberries, that, grown in this way. Judging from the enormous price it sells at, picked up as it is in the present hap-hazard way, at present prices, an acre would sell for $1,000 to $3,000. To give some idea of the immense quantities of Water Cress sold about some of the cities in Europe, we may state that a recent number of "Covent Garden Gazette" states that Water Cresses to the value of £60,000 are annually consumed in Paris, and in London to the extent of £30,000 annually. UPLAND CEESS.— (5ai-&area vulgaris.) This has recently been introduced as a new vegetable by a Mr. Beyer, of Iowa, and ^Ir. Beyer may be well par- doned for believing it to be new, for he says that he is informed by the largest seed firm in Paris in a letter written in 1885, that in their belief it is "new in France." Now, it is not " new," but a very old plant, as I well remember it in my 'prentice days, when it was grown as Spinach, and used exactly as AYater Cress. In fact, it so much resembles Water Cress iu taste that the difference is scarcely discernible, and the wonder is that its use has not become more general, as it is of as easy VEGETABLES — COLLA.ED& — COKN. 195 culture as Spinach ; indeed, easier, for it is a perennial plant, and can be grown easily for two years without re- sowing, and it yields enormous crops. The seed should be sown in April, in rows twelve to fifteen inches apart, and Mr. Beyer, who has been experimenting with it in the climate of Iowa, says it has stood a temperature of five degrees below zero, and still keeping green. He believes that its great value as a salad will soon be ap- preciated here, and, besides, as cattle eat it greedily, it may, in some sections, prove a valuable forage plant. COLLARDS (SOTJTHERK),— (-Brassica oleracea. Var.) Most of the Collards, as grown in this section, are nothing more than sowings of any early variety of Cab- bage in rciws about one foot apart, which are cut off for use when six or eight inches high. The Southern Col- lard is a distinct variety of vigorous growth, attaining a height of five or six feet, and grown in portions of the South where the ordinary kinds of Cabbage fail to head. Spring sowings may be made every two weeks at two feet apart from February to May ; and in fall from Septem- ber as late as the season will admit. CORN.— (-Z'ea Mays.) The varieties known as "Sweet" are the sorts most cultivated for culinary use in the green state. It may be either sown in rows four and a half feet apart, and the seeds planted at eight or nine inches in the rows, or planted in hills at distances of three or four feet each way, according to the variety grown or the richness of the soil in which it is planted. The taller the variety or richer the? soil, the greater should be the distance apart. 196 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. The soil best suited for Corn for an early crop is a W3ll enriched sandy loam. The planting should never be done until the weather is settled and warm, as heat is indispensable to the healthy growth of Corn. We make our first plantings in this vicinity about the middle of May, and continue succession plantings every two or three weeks nntil the first week in July, which date, in this latitude, is the latest at which we can plant and be sure of a crop of " roasting ears. " In more southerly latitudes planting is begun a month earlier and con- tinued a month later. The crop is hardly profitable enough for the market gardener where land is high in price, but the farmers realize double the price for Sweet Corn when sold m the green state in our markets, that they do for Eipe Corn, besides, as the ground can be cleared when the ears are thus sold in August, it can be used afterwards for Turnips. About twenty years ago I came into possession, about the 1st of May, of a four-acre plot that had lain for many years in sod. It was then too late to be able to break it up for planting any of the finer kinds of vege- tables, so I decided to plant it with Sweet Corn. Ac- cordingly, I had the sod plowed over fiat in sueli a manner as would best rot it. I was careful to have the furrows straight, and at every five feet where they lapped together I dropped Sweet Corn at four or five inches apart, so that when it started to grow it stood in regular lines five feet distant. The Corn was planted about May 20th, and hoed around the line as it grew, the space between being run over by the hari-ow cultivator. By the middle of June, from the action of the cultivator, the space between the rows of Corn was in fine friable condition, and Celery was planted in double rows, ten inches apart, Tlie shade given by the Corn was of no injury to the Celery at this early stage of its growth, and as the Corn crop was sold and the stalks were cleared ofE VEGETABLES — COKN. 107 by the middle of August, the growth of the Clelery was not in the slightest impaired. The whole transaction was quite satisfactory ; the Corn crop sold (green), for about $600, or $150 per acre ; the Celery at about $400 per acre, which was exceedingly low, not much more than one cent per root for every rooi planted ; in some subsequent years the price would have doubled that for the same quantity. No fertilizer was used, except a slight sprinkling of bone dust for the Celery. A profit now of from $50 to $75 is usually realized per acre from Sweet Corn. The best varieties now are : Karly IHarblehead. — (See figure 41.) Certainly as early, if not a little earlier, than any of the other sorts of Sweet Corn. In appearance it resembles the better known Early Narragansett. The stalk is dwarf and it sets its ears very low down, which are of fair market- able size. Cory. — Equally early as the preceding, and said to be larger iu size. Early Minnesota. — (See figure 42.) Very early and desirable alike in the market and family garden. Height of stalk, four and a half feet ; ears of fair size and good quality. Crosby's Early Su^ar. — Early, and a great favorite in the markets of all large cities. Ears rather small but productive, and of excellent quality. Henderson. — This variety is of medium earliness and is valued alike in the market and family garden, or for canning purposes, for which latter use enormous areas of it are now grown. The ears are twelve rovyed, straight and handsome ; quality of the very best. Squantura Sup^ar. — One of the sweetest and most valued varieties I know of. It is rather early and won- derfully productive. Kows irregular, but setting four and five oars on a stalk. 198 GAKDENTNG FOE PllOFlT. Egyptian. — The ears of this variety are of large size, the flavor peculiarly rich and. sweet. It is grown in equally large quantities for both canning and for selling in the green state. Like all the other large varieties, it matures late — perhaps the best late sort. Sto well's EycrgrccUi— (See figure 43. ) ISTow recognized Fig. 41.— MARBLE- Fig. 42.— MINNESOTA Fig, 43.— stowell's • HEAD CORN. COllN. EVEROREKN CORN. everywhere as the standard late variety, and having the pecuharity of remaining longer m the green state than most other sorts. Mammoth Sugar.— A late variety and a sort that pro- VEGETABLES — CUCUMBER. 199 duces ears of very large size and fine flavor. It is un- usually productive, and is the variety almost exclusively grown by JSTew York market gardeners for their late crop. CUCUMBER. — (Cucumis sativus.) The growing of the Cucumber out-of-doors is, in most places, attended with a great deal of annoyance and loss, occasioned by the attacks of the "Striped Bug." When the seed is sown in the open ground, repeated sow- ings are often utterly destroyed by this pest, despite all remedies. To avoid this, and at the same time to forward the crop at least a week, we have long adopted the following method with the greatest success : About the middle of May (for this section), we cut from a pas- ture lot, sods two to three inches thick ; these are placed with the grassy side down, either on the benches of our forcing-house, m an exhausted hot-bed, or inside of a Cfvld frame ; at that season of the year any one of these will do as well as another. The sods being fitted together neatly so that all crevices are filled up, they are then cut into squares about three or- four inches in length and breadth ; on each of these are planted two or three seeds of Cucumber, and over the whole is sifted about half an inch of covering of some fine rich mold. They are then sprinkled thoroughly from a rose watering- pot, and the sashes put on and kept closed until the seeds begin to germinate, which will be m three or four days. As soon as they are up, the sashes must be raised to admit air, else the sun's rays, acting on the glass, would raise the temperature too high ; at that season of the year the sashes, as a rule, may be tilted up at eight or nine o'clock m the morning, and shut down by three or four o'clock m the afternoon. By the time the Cu- 300 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. cumber plants have attained two or three of their rough leaves, which will be in about three weeks from the time of sowing, they are planted out in the open ground in hills three feet apart each way. The hills should have been previously prepared, by mixing thoroughly with the soil in each, a shovelful of well-rotted manure. It is always better to plant in the afternoon rather than during the early part of the day, as the coolness and moisture at night enable the plants to recuperate from the effects of removal. If the weather is hot and dry, it is safer to give each hill a thorougli watering owes, imme- diately after planting. I have recommended sods in preference to flower-pots for starting the Cucumbers, inasmuch as they are not only procurable in all places, but our experience sh^ws that the sod is even better than the flower-pot ; it better retains moisture, and there is a freshness about sod in which the roots of all plants love to revel, and which no composts we can prepare can ever equal. It will be seen that the expense of growing Cucumbers m this manner is considerable ; to grow enough for an acre — about 5,000 hills — it will require the use of twenty three by six foot sashes, and the preparation of the sods and attention in airing, etc., until they are fit to plant, will involve ten times more expense than simply sowing the seed in the hills ; but all such expenditures are well returned, for it is safe to say that the profits would always be at least three times more by this plan than by the other. The average receipts are $500 per acre, working expenses probably 0;25O, and the crop is off. in time for Turnips or Spinach as a second crop. The Cucumber is a vegetable perhaps better fitted than any other for Southern market gardeners. There is no doubt that by the forwarding process above described, it could be had in marketable condition in the neighborhood of Charleston or Savannah, at least a month before it VEGETABLES — CUCUMBEK. 201 could in New York, and as it is one of the easiest things we liave to ship, a jjrofitable business could be made of growing it to send North. The profits un an acre of Cu- cumbers grown by this method in Charleston, and sold in New York in June, would, I think, exceed the aver- age profits of twenty-five acres of Cotton. For forward- ing under glass see "Forcing Cucumbers," on page 79. Cucumbers are also extensively raised for pickling, hundreds of acres being grown for this purpose in the vicinity of New York, especially in Westchester County. Sod or stubble land, plowed in early fall, and again turned over twice or thrice in spring, is the condition of soil usually chosen. * The ground is marked out as for Corn, four feet each way, and a good shovelful of well-rotted manure, dug in at the angle which forms the hill ; the seed is sown — about a dozen in each hill — usually about the 20 th of June, but equally good crops can be obtained by sowings made as late as the middle of July. The average price of late years has been 11.50 per 1,000, and the number grown per acre on properly culti- vated lands is 150,000, which is $225 gross receipts per acre. The expense of raising is said to be about one-half. These profits "would not satisfy the market gardener on his few valuable acres near the city, but, no doubt, are remunerative enough to the farmers with large quanti- ties of cheap land. The varieties are numerous and embrace many very well marked kinds. The large growing kinds that attain two feet or more in length have never become favorites in our American markets. Improved White Spmc.— (See figure M.) This, a favor- ite market variety, belongs to the section of short Cucum- bers, producing fruit of medium size, from six to eight inches in length, and two to three inches m diameter. It is a handsome fruit, deep green in flosh, crisp, and of 203 ■ GAKDElirTKG FOE PROFIT. fine flavor. This is one of the yarieties grown for forcing. Nichol's Medium fireen. — This new variety is excellent as a, pickle sort, and for forcing there is none better. It is very productive, of medium size, and always straight and smooth. Color, dark green ; flesh, crisp and tender. Fig. 44. — IMPBOVED WHITE SPINE OUOUMBBE. Early Cluster. — A much esteemed early variety, grow- ing in clusters and extremely productive. Its color is bluish green, shading lighter at ihe extremities. Early Russian. — (See figure 45.) This is the earliest variety, coming into use about ten days before the Early Fig. 45.— EAKLY RUSSIAN CUCUMBER. Fig. 46.— WEST INDIAN OnEKKIN OR BURR CUCUMBER. Cluster, which it resembles in some respects, but is smaller and shorter. The fruit is generally produced in pairs, and is from three to four inches long, hardy, pro- ductive and fine flavored. One of the best varieties for private gardens. VEGETABLES — EGG PLAKT. 203 Grccii Pi'oIifiCi — As a pickle variety it is unsiirpassed. Its characteristics are its very uniform growtli, hardly ever yielding Cucumbers too large for pickling, and its immense productiveness. Tailby's Hybrid, — Dark green and glossy in color, good yielder and fine flavor; resembles the English forcing varieties, with one of which it is a cross. West India Gherliin or Burr.— (See figure 46.) This variety, which is exclusively grown for pickling, is a spe- cies distinct from the common Cucumber {CucuirJs An- guria). It is very small, length from two to three inches, a strong growing sort, and should be planted five feet apart. EGG PLANT.— (SoZanwTO Melongena.) The cultivation of the Egg Plant, fiom its extreme tenderness, is, .in its early stage, attended perhaps with more trouble than any vegetable of onr gardens. A na- tive of Tropical America, it at all times requires a high temperature. For this reason, in this latitude, the seeds should not be sown in the hot-bed until the first week in April ; even then a steady bottom heat is necessary to a healthy development, and there should be a warm cov- ering at night over the sashes. I have always found that with tender plants of this kind, nothing was gained by starting early, even though by great care the plants are carried through the cold season.. By the time they can be planted in the open ground, about June 1st, those started the 1st of March would be no larger than those started 1st of April, besides being harder both in roots and leaves, in which condition they are far inferior to the younger plants that have been raised with less than half the labor. A correspondent from an inland town writes that, for the first time, the Egg Plant has been grown in his sec- 304 GARDENIKG FOR PROFIT. tion this season, and that it has been a wonder to the good people of that place, and they wish for more light on its culture and uses. This gentleman says that the earliest and best fruit is produced on the plants last set out (June 10th), and seems to wonder that such should be the case. His experience here teaches a forcible lesson on the subject that we so often dwell upon, cautioning against the sowing or planting of tender kinds, such as Tomato, Egg Plant, Cucumber or Melon, too early. In the lati- tude of New York, Egg Plants should never be sown in hot-beds sooner than April 20th, the temperature of the hot-bed to be not less than seventy degrees at night. The plant at no season of its growth should be kept for any length of time at a lower average temperature than seventy degrees. The experiment of my correspondent demonstrated that his plants, planted in open air on May 19th, were inferior to those set out on June 10th. Egg Plants, when they first germinate, are very sensitive to damp and to being chilled, and the amateur often fails to raise them, even with his hot-bed. But as they are now grown in all large towns, those wishing to try them, and not having the proper means of raising the plants, can pro- cure them at trifling expense from the market gardeners or florists of their nearest town. The soil in which they fruit best is a light, sandy loam, well enriched by decayed stable manure. The Egg Fruit is fit for use from the time it is the size of a turkey's egg until it is full grown, say five inches in diameter ; but it is not so good when the seeds become hard, and indicate an appearance of ripening. The soil in which Egg Plants are to be grown can hardly be too rich, for it is a plant that will generally repay good treatment. They are planted from two to three feet apart, according to the degree of richness of VEGETABLES— EGG PLANT. 305 soil ; in tho fertile market gardens nerer less than three feet. Although their sale is comparatively limited, yet, from the difficulties often experienced in raising the plants, all that arc offered are sold at good prices ; the average is about 11 per dozen, each plant producing six to nine full-sized fruit. It is more important with this vegetable to select the proper variety for growing than with any other that I know ; for that reason we are Fi.4'. 47. — NEW TOIIK IMPKOVED EGQ PLANT. Fig. 48.— BLACK PEKIH EGO PLANT. chary of touching any other sorts for market purposes than the "New York Improved" and "Black Pekin." iVcw York IinprOTed.— (See figure 47.) This is our leading market variety, and is readily distinguishable from either the Large Eound or Long Purple varieties in the plant being more robust in all its parts, the leaves and stems also being thickly studded with spines, which are not found to any great extent on the other varieties. A productive and excellent variety, 20G GAEDENING FOll PEOITi'l'. Long Purple. — Different in shape from the foregoing; sometimes deep purple, and again pale, with white or yellowish stripes. Early, productive, and of easy cul- ture. lilack Pckln. — (See figure 48.) A comparatively new variety of superior excellence ; fruit glossy, deep purple, almost black, of globular form and very solid. It is earlier and more productive than the New York Im- proved, and much superior in flavor, and is now selling rather better in our New York markets. White-fruited Egg Plaut. — Similar in growth to the Long Purple, but the fruit is larger, and of an ivory white- ness. It is good when cooked, but much less productive, and, like the Scarlet, which is almost identical except in color, is grown more for curiosity and ornament. ENDIVE, — (fiichorium Endivia.) The cultivation of this vegetable for market purposes is not yet extensive, it being used by few except our Ger- man and French population. It is, however, offered now by the wagon load, where a few years ago a f ew basketfuls would have supplied all the demand. Like all other vegetables that are grown in limited quantities, it com- mands a high price, and the few who do raise it find it very profitable. Like Lettuce, it may be sown at any time, from early spring until August, and perfect its crop the season of sowing. As it is used almost exclusively in the fall months, the main sowings are made in June and July, from which plantations are formed, at one foot apart each way, in August and September. It requires no special soil or manure, and, after planting, it is kept clear of weeds by hoeing and weeding, until the plant has attained its full size, when the process of blanching begins ; for it VEGETABLES — ENDIVE. 20? is never used except when blanclied, as it is harsh and bitter in the green state. Blanching is effected by gathering np tlae leaves, and tying them up by their tips in a conical form, with bass matting. This excludes the light and air from the inner leaves, which, in the course of three to six weeks, according to the temperature at the time, become blanched. Another method of blanching is much simpler and quicker, and is the one mostly practiced by those who grow Endive for market ; it consists simply in covering Fig. 4y.— GKEEN COKLED ENDIVE. up the plants as they grow, with slates or boards, which serves the same purpose, by excluding the light, as the tying up. The average price during the months of October, November and December is fifty cents per dozen. The best sorts are the following : Green Curled. — (See figure 49.) This is not only one of the most usefnl as a salad, but is highly ornamental froin its delicately cut and curled leaves ; it is much used for garnishing. Moss Curled. — This variety is now common, and is being extensively cultivated. From the density of the foliage, the plant is heavier than the Green Curled, is 208 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. equally a^greeable as a salad, and its appearance, either green or blanched, is particularly handsome, and is now being much used for garnishmg m our best hotels. IJroad-icavcd ISatarian. — A loose growing variety, forming but little heart. As with this blanching can only bo accomplished by tying up, it is not so desirable as either of the preceding. GARLIC— {-^liium sativu~-i.) Another vegetable used mostly by foreigners. It is of the easiest culture, growing freely on any soil suitable for onions. It is propagated by divisions of the bulb, called "cloves " or " sets." These are planted in early spring, in rows one foot apart, and from four to six inches between the plants in the rows. The crop matures in August, when it is harvested like the Onion. It is always sold iu the dry state. HORSERADISH.— (iVasfu)' plowing at intervals, at least twice, and frequent cultiva- tion, until the vines begin to run, when the terminal buds are pinched off to cause the growth of the lateral branches. The main vine j)roduces chiefly male or bar- ren flowers, and if this is left to run, the laterals would not push out and there would be little or no fruit. The lateral shoots bear the female or perfect flowers, and to encourage the growth of these, is one of the secrets of Jlclon culture upon which the profits depend. The same peculiarity of growth is found in all the gourd tribe, and applies to Squashes, Cucumbers and Water ]\Iolons, as well as to Musk Jfclons, careful attention to which, other things being right, makes success certain. The pests of the Melon are lice, the striped beetle, and the squash bug. The lice appear on the under side of the leaves and are difficult to get at, so that the simplest and most effective remedy is to pinch off the affected leaves or the part of the vine and carry it away and burn it. If left undisturbed, the lice from one hill will quickly VEGETABLES — MELON. 227 spread over several square rods and completely destroy the crop. A sure preventive against the lice or Aphis is tobacco, which, if either in the form of refuse stems or dust,' is strewn on the hill, the lice will never appear ; it will also act as a preventive against the striped bug. The striped beetle is the worst enemy to deal with. It lays its eggs on the stem at the ground, and the small grubs work their way to the root and feed upon it. The first indication of their presence is the wilting of the leaves — '"'going dowa" of the vines, the growers call it — and vine after vine thus goes down, until at times the larger part of the crop may be destroyed when the Melons are half grown. The remedy for this pest is to apply strong tobacco water around the stem on the first appear- ance of the small striped beetle and repeat it in a few days, and to repeat it again as soon as the wilting of the fii'st leaf is noticed. The fruit begins to " net " about two weeks before it ripens, and the indications of ripe- ness are the fragrant scent, the softness of the blossom end of the melon, and the cracking and easy parting of the stem. Too much care cannot be used in sowing the seeds of all plants of this class, as they cross very readily ; for this reason, when seeds are to be saved from any par- ticular variety, care must be taken that it is widely re- moved from any other — not less than 300 yards. If seed is not wanted, improper crossing will make no difference to the fruit that season, but the seed — the pro- duct of that crop — will be affected thereby, and its im- purity developed in the fruit raised from it. From the facility with which the Melon intermixes, it follows that the varieties are very numerous, and for the same reason it is difficult to retain varieties pure. The following seem to be the most fixed in character, and are the varieties in general use: Kaiiy Ilackensack. — This is an improvement of recent 338 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. introduction on the well-known " Hackensack," de- scribed below, in being from five to six days earlier. This earliness gave a grower in Albany, New York, last summer (1886), over SlOO more per acre in using this variety, above all other kinds tried. In size it is some- Fig. 59. — HAOKENSAOK MT7SK MELON. ■what smaller, bnt it is similar in other respects to the large liackeusack. Hackensack. — (Seu figure 50.) This is now one of the most popular varieties grown for market by the gardeners of this vicinity. It attains a large size, is round in shape and flattened at the ends ; skin green and thickly netted. The ilesh also is green, and rich and sugary in flavor. It is wonderfully productive. Golden Netted Gem.— (See figure 60.) This is one of the earliest, and no doubt the best small Melon grown. The fruit is globe-shaped, uniform in size, weigiiingfrom one and a quarter to one pound and Fig. 60.— GOLDEN NETTED u half cach. Thc flesh is light- GEM MUSK MELON. grccn , aud of fine flavor. Ealtimore. — ('"^ec figure 01.) This is a productive and VEGETABLES — MELOK. 229 excellent shiiDping Melon, that can always be found in its season in the best hotels and restaurants of Kew York, Fig. 61. — BALTIMOKE MUSK MELON. Philadelphia and Baltimore. It is a thick, green-fleshed variety of oblong form, and of excellent flavor. In Bal- timore and farther south this class of Melon is known as Cantaloupe. Monlrcal Market.— (See figure 62.) ■ .The Melons of Fig 6' —MONTREAL MAI KET MUSK MELON this excellent variety are of the largest size. "We have 230 GARDENIXCi I'Ult PROFIT. had them weighing over twenty pounds. In form it is almost round and deeply ribbed. The e\m is green and netted ; flesh green, very thick and of the finest flavor. It is largely raised for the markets of Montreal, where it is justly highly esteemed. Green Citron. — This excellent Melon was formerly the leading variety in our New York markets, but of late years it has been superseded by the Hackensack. The fruit is of medium size, deeply netted, of globular shape and six to eight inches in diameter. Flesh green and of fine flavor. MELON. — Water. — (Citrullus vulgaris.) Like the Musk Melon, when cultivated for sale, this is essentially a plant more suited for the farm than the garden, as it requires even more space in v,'hich to grow. The soil best suited to it is a rather sandy loam, heavier soils being apt to induce a too strong growth of leaves. It should be planted about the same time and cultivated in all respects the same as the Musk Melon, only that the hills should not be less than eight feet apart. It is grown in immense quantities on the light sandy soils of Xew Jersey for tlio New York and Philadelphia markets, in which it is said to give a profit of from 850 to $100 per acre. But it is in the vicinity of our Southern cities — Charleston, Savannah, and also many points in Floritla, etc., where we have regular steamboat communication, that these tropical fruits can be grown at a high rate of profit to the cultivator. Water Melons grown in the vicinity of Charleston in July are sold by the tens of thousands in New Y'ork to the consumer at $1 each, while those grown in Southern Jersey in August and September, are a drug at fifteen and twenty-five cents. The leading varieties are: VEGETABLES — MELOX. 231 Phinncy's Early. — Very early, productive, of medium size and quality. Ice Cream. — The White Seeded Ice Cream or Peerless is of medium size, skin pale green, flesh scarlet, of the best quality. Mountain Sweet.— An old favorite. It is of large size, oblong shape, skin very dark green, flesh red, solid and very sweet. Rattlesnake or Gypsy.— (See figure 63.) Now per- haps the leadmg market variety. The Melons are oblong Fig. 63. — STKIPED GTPST WATBHMELOH. in shape, the rind is light green in color, with wavy stripes of dark green ; flesh brigh t red and of fine flavor. One of the very best Melons for shipping. Kolb's Gem. — A new and early variety that is already largely grown, particularly in the South, for shipment to the Northern markets. Commission dealers say that as a shipping variety it is hardly equaled. The fruit is nearly round, rind dark green, somewhat marbled with lighter shades. The Melons will vary from twenty-five to fifty pounds each in weight. Mammoth Ironclad. — This variety is of mammoth size, specimens often weighing eighty pounds and up- wards. The rind is marked with regular stripes of light and dark green. It is a very showy variety of fair qual- ity. Shape oblong. 333 GA.EDEXING TOll PllOEIT. Icing or Ice Rind. --(See figure 64.) There are two types of this Melon — dark and light, both of excellent Fig. 64.— ICING OK ICE KIND WATEKMELON. flavor. This is the favorite variety of tlie market gar- deners of South Ne\T Jersey. Blacli Spanish. — Fruit medium size, almost round ; skin dark green ; flesh red, sweet and delicious. Scaly Bark. — (See figure 65.) The rind of this is very thin, and yet so tough and strong that it will bear any Fig. 65. — SOAIiT BARK -WATEKMELON. amount of handling before bursting or cracking open. This characteristic gives to the variety special value for shipping purposes. The flesh is light scarlet in color, and VEGETABLES — MELON — MINT. 233 of excellent flavor. To give some idea of vchat pressure this variety will bear, we state the fact that, in 1884, a specimen of this variety left at our office stood a pressure of 1,350 pounds before breaking. There are numerous other varieties constantly being ofEered' by seedsmen, a few of which are meritorious, although the majority of them are worthless. Besides the sorts already given, the variety known as Pride of Georgia is worthy of mention. CitrDM. — Outwardly a very handsome Melon. The fruit is of small size, but not worth growing as a ripened fruit. It is used to some extent for making sweetmeats, for which purpose it is alone cultivated. MINT.— (^e»v I establishments having * I^ ^ greenhouses, vineries or j | fv ' forcing pits, are the back ■ ' _^ ^ i sheds, usually erected over V'"* the boiler pits, such as are „ /Ss iW"^*^ shown in the plans of _ /-',f\rVs v~^ "^ forcing-pits in this work. -'"^/^T^y^'SyV^'^'^'x ^ But such a structure is ^.^ 66.-MusimooMs. not indispensable. Any place where a temi^erature of from fifty to sixty degrees can be sustained during winter will suit. AVe have also grown them under the stages of our greenhouses, but our "modern imiDrovements " of late years allow us no longer room for the operation there. The time of begin- ning may be any time during winter. We have usually begun our preparations about December 1st, which brought our beds into bearing about February 1st, at the season that Mushrooms begin to be most wanted. Our method of growing Mushrooms is very simple, and nan Vif> fl.np.nrfmlisbfid to a, p.P.vtaintv hv anv nnp i?nnfnrmin(r 236 GASDENISG FOR PROFIT. strictly to the foHowing directions. Let fresh horse droppings be procured from the stables each day, in quan- tity not less, perhaps, than a good barrow load ; to every barrow load of droppings add about the same weight of fresh loam from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind, in fact, that has not been manured — the danger of old manured soil being that it may contain spurious fungi. Let the droppings and soil be mixed together, day by day, as the droppings can be jDrocurod ; if they can be had all at ouce, in quantity enough, so much the better. Let the heap be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to heat violently, until you have got quantity enough to form the l)ed of the dimensions required. Be careful that your heap is under cover, .-o that it cannot possibly get wet. The most convenient size for a bed is from four to five feet in width, and if the Mushrooms are wanted in quan- tity, it is the plan most economical of space to start on the floor of tiie house with the first bed, the additional ones to be formed of shelving, four feet wide by ten inches deep, raised one above another, something like the berths in a steamboat. Xow, from the prepared heap of droppings and soil, spread over the bed a thin layer ; pound this firmly down with a brick ; then another layer, pounded down as before, and so on until it reaches a depth of eight inches. Be careful that it be no more nor less than eight inches ; more would cause the mass to heat too violently, while less is hardly enough. Into this bed plunge a thermometer; in a day or two the bed will heat so that it will run up to 100 degrees or over, and as soon as it declines to ninety- five or ninety, take a dibber or sharp stick and make holes all over the bed, at the distance of about twelve inches each way, to about half the depth of the bed. Into each hole put a piece of spawn of the size of a hen's egg or so, cov- ering up the hole again with the compost, so that it will present the same level, firm surface as before the spawn was VEGETABLES — MUSHROOM. 237 put in. Let it remain in this condition for abont ten or twelve days, by whicli time tlie spawn will have "run ' through the whole bed. This is the method when "brick spawn " is used. Wlien " French Flake '' or loose spawn is used, make holes with the hand all over the bed four or five inches deep and wide, in which place a handful of the loose spawn, and again beat it down to its original firm- ness. Now spread evenly over the surface of the bed nearly two inches of fresh loam, firm it down moderately with the back of a spade, and cover up the bed with three or four inches of hay or straw ; this completes the whole operation of " planting the crop." Nothing now remains to be done, but to give attention to the proper degrees of heat and moisture. If you can control the means of heating so that the place can be kept uniformly at a temperature of sixty degrees, all the better, but if not, it may range from fifty to sixty degrees. It should never get much be- low fifty degrees, else the bed will become cold too quickly, and delay the crop until too late in the season to be profitable. Unless the air of the house has been unusually dry, the Mushrooms will appear before any water is required. But examination should be made, and if the surface of the bed appears dry, a gentle sprinkling of water, heated to about 100 degrees, must be given. With this treatment, beginning in December, our first crop is ready for use in February, and as the Mushrooms do not come up all at once, it takes about three weeks to gather the crop, which is fit to gather when the Mush- rooms have got to be an average of about three inches in diameter, the under side having a delicate pink color. In gathering the crop, it is best to give the Mushrooms a slight twist, so as to disturb as little as possible the young ones which usually come up in dense clusters, as shown in the engraving. After the first crop has been gathered, a slight dressing of fresh soil, of about half an inch in 338 GARDENING FOK PEOFIT. depth, is spread over the bed, and again beaten down with the spade. This is gently watered with tepid water when dry, and a second ciop of Mushrooms (often better tlian the first), is gathered in March. To show how a simple orersight in our operations may defeat the whole work, I will state that, in my first at- tempt at Mushroom growing, I labored for two years without being able to produce a single Mushroom. In my apprentice days we had known no such word as fail in so simple a matter, but licre, on my first attempt on my own responsibility, I was met by total failure. Every authority was consulted, all the various methods tried, but with no better success. In all such cases^something must be blamed, and I pronounced the spawn as worth- less ; but my good-natured employer quietly suggested that this could not well be, as a friend of his had abun- dant crops growing from spawn received from the same source. Driven into a corner by this information, I made another exploration of my "authorities," and was fortu- nate to find in one of them a single senbence that at once showed where my error had been. It Was to " be careful to delay the covering with mold until ten or twelve days a"ter the bed had been spawned." Now, in all the different methods I had tried, I liadin each invariably put in the spawn, and at once put on the two-inch covering of soil, which had the effect to shut dawn the steam, thereby raising the temperature in the bed to a degree to destroy the spawn, and consequently to defeat my whole operations, ily excuse for this di- gression is to show the importance of what might other- wise be thought unnecessary details. The plan of one of our most successful Mushroom growers in the neighborhood of New York is practically that of my own just given, except that he makes a differ- ence in covering. Instead of using the two inches of loose soil, as was my method, he uses old compact sod, VEGETABLES— MUSHliOOir. 339 cut two Indies thick, placing the grassy side downward. This he has found in his experience to be the best method, which his extraordinary success seems to well attest. Although spawn is procurable at cheap rates in all hor- ticultural stores, yet to such as desire to make it them- selves i give the following brief directions. Take equal portions of horse droppings, cow dung and fresh loam ; mix the whole thoroughly together, as you would make mortar ; then form it into cakes about the size of large bricks ; place these on edge, under cover, until they be- come half dry ; then insert into each a piece of spawn half an inch or so square; let the bricks remain until they are quite dry. Then spread about eiglit inches of horse dung over the floor of the shed, on which build the bricks iu a pile three feet wide by three feet high, keeping the side in which the spawn has been put uppermost ; then cover them over with sufBcient stable manure, so as to give a gentle heat through the whole. In two or three weeks the spawn will have spread itself through the whole mass of each brick. They are then removed to a dry place, and will retain their- vital properties for many years. There is not the least question that the cultivation of Mushrooms for market, forced in the manner detailed, will give a larger profit for the libor and capital invested than that from any other vegetable. The supply has never yet been half enough, and sellers have had prices almost pretty much as they pleased. I know of no house in this vicinity — there are some, I believe, in Canada — that have been especially erected for the purpose, and the markets have been supplied from beds formed in out-of-the-way corners, giving only an uncertain and irregular supply, very discouraging to buy- ers, i have no doubt whatever that Mushroom houses, roughly built, but exclusively devoted to that purpose, would, in the vicinity of any of our large cities, pay a profit of thirty per cent, per annum on cost of construe- 240 GARDEXING FOR PROFIT. tion. I am often asked if it will pay to raise Mushrooms outside during sximmer. I do not think it would, unless under special contract, as, besides being less appreciated in hot weather, they come in competition with those grown in the fields. If, however, it is desired to raise the crop in summer, adopt exactly the plan above ad- vised ; all that is necessary to see to is, that the beds are made in the shade and protected against rain. BTASTURTIUM.— Indian Cress.— ( Tropcsolum.) A plant at once highly ornamental and useful. The shoots and flower buds are sometimes used as a salad, but it is grown for its seed-pods, which are pickled in vin- egar and used as a substitute for capers. It can be grown in almost any soil or situation, entwining itself around strings, brush or trellis work, that may be given for its support. It may be sown thinly in drills an inch or so deep, in April or May. There are many beautiful vari- eties, but the following are only those in use in our vege- table gardens. Tall IVasturtiiira {T. majus), attains a height of eight or nine feet ; the flowers are yellow, blotched with crim- son. This variety makes an excellent screen or covering for unsightly places in the garden. Dwarf Nasturtium {T. /(h'mh*.)— This, in growth, is quite distinct from the preceding, never attaining more than three feet ; it should be sown thinly in drills, three feet wide, and staked up with brush like Peas. Its flow- ers are handsome, bright yellow, blotched with scarlet. TEGETABLES — OKEA. — OXIOX. 241 OKEA 03. GUMBO. — {Abelmonchus esoulentus.) This vegetable is extensively grown in the Southern States. Its long pods, when young, are nsed in soups, stews, etc., and are believed to be very nutritions. It is of the easiest culture, and grows freely, bearing abun- dantly on any ordinary garden soil. It is sown at the' usual time of all tender vegetables — in this district in May — in drills two inches deep, and from eighteen to twenty-four inches apart in the rows for the dwarf sorts ; for the tall, nearly double that width. There are now the following sorts : New Dwarf Prolific, Dwarf White, Dwarf Green and Tall Green. OKION.— (-4SM"ft Cepa.) Next to Cabbages, perhaps Onions are the most profit- able crop of our market gardens, in which they are grown from sets, and nearly all sold in bunches in the green or unripened state. Grown from seed, they are cul- tivated almost exclusively by farmers or men who devote farm land to tliis purpose alone. Thus grown they are sold in the dry state, and form- an important article of commerce. I will first describe the manner of cultivating in our market gardens. To produce the " sets," or small bulbs, that are planted to give early Onions to be sold green, a poor piece of ground is chosen as early as it is fit to work in spring. It is brought into a thorough state of pulver- ization by plowing, harrowing and raking, so that the surface is level and free of stones. A line is then stretched, and lines are marked out by the nine-inch side of the marker. In these the seed is sown in beds of six rows wide, rubbing ont every seventh row marked, so that it forms an alley eighteen inches wide. For this purpose 342 GAEDEXII^'ft FOE PROFIT. the seed is sown quite thickly, and on poor soil, so as to produce the "sets" as small as possible, for we find that whenever they much exceed half an inch in diametei-, they will run to seed. It matters not how small the bulb is ; even when of the size of the smallest Peas, they make an equally good if not a better crop than if of a larger size. The sets are taken up in August, well dried, jjlaced with the chaff among them in a loft of a stable or barn, about four inches deep, covered up by six inches of hay on the approach of hard frost, and left thus until wanted for setting out in spring. This is the usual method of raising- Onion sets. But few market gardeners can grow them in the ordi- nary manner, unless at a cost greater than they can be purchased for from those who make a business of grow- ing them. But the price paid for sets the past six or eight years lias been so high that many market gardeners have abandoned growing Onions from them. For Onion sets the best soil of the garden is chosen, manured with short, well-rotted manure, plowed in at the rate of seventy-five tons to the acre. When only con- centrated manures can be obtained, crushed bone is pre- ferable to guano (for quantity see Chapter on Manures). The ground is further deeply harroweil, finishing with the smoothing harrow (see Implements), or, if on a small scale, smootlied fine with the rake. The line is now stretched along the bed, and the nine-inch marker again makes the drills, six in each bed, with the seventh rubbed out for an alley. The sets are now planted in the drills at a distance of two to three inches apart, pressing each bulb down firmly, so that it will keep riuht side up. The row is tlien closed in by the feet or a rake, so that the set is entirely covered up. Tlie ground is then rolled over, so as to render it still more comjiact around tlie bulbs ; as soon as the lines can be traced, by the Onions starting to grow, the hoe is applied between the rows. TEGRTABLES — ONION". 243 and the soil broken between the plants by the fingers, where the hoe cannot reach, so as to destroy the germs of the weeds. If attended to in time, twice going over with hoeing and weeding is sufficient until the crop is fit for market, which it begins to be about the first week in June, and is usually all gathered by the first week in July, so as to give us time for second crops. When we first begin to send them to market, they are usually not more than half grown, and are washed and tied in bunches containing from nine to twelve Onions ; later, when full grown, from six to seven. This crop is one requiring considerable labor and expense to get it in shape to sell, taking cost of sets, labor, manure, etc., probably not less than 1300 per acre, for the past fifteen years ; but the receipts have been correspondingly high, averaging in that time quite $500 per acre. Onions, planted from sets, rarely fail to give a crop on any kind of soil, provided it has been well manured ; and although they are sold by the market gardeners in the green state, they are equally good, ripened and dried, when raised from sets as from seed. The quantity of sets required per acre is from six to ten bushels, accord- ing to size. At present prices, they cost 16 per bushel. Another plan to get early Onions to sell green, is to sow the seed in fall in rows from nine to twelve inches apart. The time of sowing is of great importance, and varies, of course, with the locality. In the latitude of New York they may be sown from 5th to 30th Septem- ber ; they do not always stand the winter well here, but it is well worth the risk, as the cost of seed is trifling, compared to cost of setting, and when they stand well the crop is usually better than from sets. A dry, well sheltered soil in this location is a necessity to enable the crop to stand the winter. The following instructions are given for raising Onions as a farm crop to be sold when mature : 244 GARDENING} FOB PItOFIT. It is the generally received opinion that Onions grow best in old ground. This we think is an error ; it is not because the ground is "old," or has been long cultivated, that the Onions do better there, but because such lands, from their long culture, are usually better pulverized ; and experience has shown us rei)catedly that when new soil has been equally well pulverized and fertilized with the old, an equally good crop is obtained and usually a crop more exempt from rust. As a matter of fact, the finest crop of On inns we ever beheld was on sandy swamp land, which had been first thoroughly drained and broken up. In fact, new soils, particularly when broken up from pasture land — turned over early enough in the fall so that the sod is completely rotted — make excellent land for Onion crops, as they are usually free from weeds. Soils of this kind, however, must be well pulverized by the use of the plow, Acme and smooth- ing harrow, or good results may not follow. Much de- pends on the quality of such soil. If rather sandy loam, it will, of course, be much easier to pulverize than if stiff or clayey loam, and such soil, in our experience, is always preferable for most crops. Such soils, also, are nearly always free from under water, rarely • requiring artificial drainage if the land is level, and it always should be selected as level as j)ossible for the Onion crop, as when land slopes to any great extent, much damage is often done by washing out, the Onion roots being near the sur- face, consequently cannot so well resist floods, as crops that root deeper. Many Onion growers who make a specialty of the busi- ness, find it is economical to ulternatc the Onion crop with a green one, snch as German Millet, which can be cut for hay in July, the "slubb'.e" plowed down in August, giving a fresh fibrous soil clear of weeds for tlie Onion crop to be sown next spring. It is not claimed that llic altcrn;itinn of a green crop with the Onions is a VEGETABLES — OLIOS'. 245 necessity, as it is well known tliat the Onion is one of the very few crops that do not seem benefited by alternating ; but it is claimed that it gives almost entire freedom from weeds, as after a crop of Millet, which has been cut before its seed is ripe, few troublesome weeds will come up the next year. MANXJEES. I have always held the opinion that when well-rotted stable manure, whether from horses or cows, can be pro- cured at a cost not exceeding $3 per ton, delivered on the ground, it is cheaper and • better than any kind of concentrated fertilizer. It should be plowed in at the rate of thirty tons to the acre. The concentrated ferti- lizers in the iharket are now so numerous that it would be invidious to specify particular brands. We ourselves, except in using occasionally the "blood and bone ferti- lizer," which we have proved to be excellent, use only pure ground bone and Peruvian guano, which, for Onions, we prefer to mix in equal parts, sowing it on the laud, after plowing, at the rate of at least one ton per acre of the mixture (when no stable manure has been used), after sowing to be harrowed in, as described in " Prepar- ing the Ground." One of the most valuable manures for the Onion crop are the droppings from the chicken or pigeon-house, which, when mixed with twice their weight of lime, coal or wood ashes, so as to disintegrate and pulverize, may be sown on the land after plowing, to be harrowed in at the rate of three or four tons per acre of the mixture. Night soil, when mixed with dry muck, coal ashes, char- coal dust, lime, or Mme rubbish, as absorbents, and spread on after plowing, at the rate of six or eight tons per acre, and harrowed deeply in, the mixture will never fail to produce a heavy crop of Onions in any suitable soil. There are many other manures that will answer the 24(i GAl'.DEXIXG FOK PHOFIT. purpose, often to be had in special localities, snch as the refuse hops and "grains" from breweries, which should be used in the same manner and in similar quantities as stable manure ; while fish guano, whalebone shayings, or shavings from horn, when pulverized so as to be in proper condition for plant food, are nearly equal in value to ground bone. Wood ashes alone, spread on at the rate of five or six tons per acre, will usually give excellent results. It is well to keep the fact in mind that it will always be more profitable to fertilize one acre of Onions well, than two acres imperfectly. If thirty tons of stable ma- nure or one ton and a half of concentrated fertilizer are used to an acre, the net profits are almost certain to be larger, than if that quantity had been sjiread over two acres ; for in all probability nearly as much weight of croi3 would be produced upon the one well-manured acre as upon the two that Irid been im])erfectly manured, besides the saving of seed ai.d labor in cultivatin;j; cue acre instead of two. rnriwEiN'G the groukd. In prepai-ing the ground for the reception of the seed (if it has been plowed the fall previous), plowing should be begun as soon as the land is dry enough to work, first having spre.id ovlt the land well-rotted stable manure, at tlie rate of thirty tons to the acre. This should be lightly turned under, plowing not more than five or six inches deep, and covering the manure so that it will be tliroc or four inches under the surface. For this reason the ma- nure must be well rotted, otherwise it cannot be well covered by the plow. If concentrated fertilizers are to be used, it is best to plow the land up roughly, sow the fertilizer at the rate of one to two tons per acre, accord- ing to its fertilizing properties ; then harrow thoroughly, VEGETABLES — OKION. 247 SO bhat it is thoroughly incorporated with the soil. After harrowing with an ordinary toothed harrow, the surface should be further leveled with a Smoothing or Disc har- row. The revolving discs pulverize the soil to a depth of three inches much better than it can be done by raking, and the smoothing board, which follows in the wake of the revolving wheels, makes the surface, if free from stones, as smooth as a board — far better than it can be done by raking. The ground being thus prepared, the next thing is the sowing of the seed, about six pounds being used per acre. This, of course, now-a-days, is always done by the seed- drilling machine, of which there are many in the market; we ourselves give preference to the Planet Jr. In sow- ing the first row, a line must be tightly stretched so as to have that row straight, after which the marker can readily regulate the other rows. The favorite distance apart for Onion rows is fifteen inches, though they are sometimes sown as close as twelve inches, leaving put every ninth row for an alley, thus forming beds of eight rows each. Where there is reason to believe that weeds may be troublesome, this plan of forming into beds has the advantage of the alley (twenty-four inches wide), into which to throw the weeds. We so fixedly believe in the value of firming in the seeds after sowing, that we advise, in addition to the clos- ing and firming of the seeds by the drill, to use a roller besides, particularly if the land is light, or where the soil has not been sufficiently firmed down. There is no other crop where the adage of a "stitch in time " is so applicable as in the Onion crop, therefore, just as soon as the lines can be seen, ivhicli will be m ten or twelve days after sowing, apply the scufBe hoe between the rows. There are a great many styles of hand culti- vators, many of which are exceedingly useful when the Onions get strong enough after weeding ; for the first 248 GARI)i:.VlX(i FOR PKOFIT. hoeing, after the seed shows the lines, we prefer the Planet Jr. Double Wheel Hoe. The distance at which Onions should stand in the rows is from one to two inches, and if the crop is sown evenly and thinly, few require to be taken out, but whether it is weeds or onions that are to be removecl, one thing should never be lost sight of — that when this operation is done, every inch of tlio surface should be broken. This is best done after hoeing, by using a wooden lawn rake all over the land, raking liglitly across the rows. It is one of the most common mistakes in -a laborer when weeding or hoeing, if he sees no weeds, to pass over such portions without bi-eaking the cnist. By this neglect, not only is it most likely that he passes another crop of weeds in embryo under the unbroken crust, but the por- tion unbroken loses the stirring so necessary for the well- being oE the crop. In our long experience in garden operatiors, we have had more trouble to keep our workmen up to the mark in this matter than in any other ; and I never fail, wh?n I discover a man guilty of such negligence, to set him back over his work until he docs it properly, and if he again fails to do so, promptly dismiss him. The Onion crop is usually fit to harvest, in this section, from 5th to 20th of August ; that is, when the seed has been sown in early spring, which should be not later than May 1st, if possible, and if by April 1st all the better. If the seed is sown too lal"e, it may delay the time of ripening, which may result in a complete loss of the crop, for, if the bulbs are not ripened by August, there is danger, if September is wet, that they will not ripen at all, hence the great necessity of early seeding in spring. If the Onion crop is growing very strong, it will facili- tate the ripening process if we bend down the leaves with the back of a wooden rake, or some such implement. YEGETABLlid — OKIOX. 2¥J SO as to "knee " them, as it is calleJ, at the neck of tlie bulb ; this checks the flow of sap, and tends to ripen the bnlb. After the tops of the Onions become yellow and wither np, they should then be pulled Avithout unnecessary de- lay, for if there is continued wet weather, and we delay the pulling too long, a secondary growth of the bulbs may be developed, which would seriously injure the crop. After pulling, lay the bulbs in convenient rows, so as to cover the ground, but not to lie on each otlier. By turn- ing them every day or two, in six or eight days they will usually be dry enough to be carted to their storage quar- ters, where the shriveled tops are cut oif, and the Onions stored on slatted shelves to the depth of six or eight inches, in some dry and airy place. It is of importance to have the bottom of the shelves slatted, so as to leave spaces an inch or so apart, that air can be admitted at the bottom as well as the top of the heap. The shelves, when all the space at hand is to be made available, may be constructed one above another. But if to be kept through the winter, the Onions must be protected in some building capable of resisting severe frost, or they must be covered with hay or straw as a protection against extreme cold. For, although the Onion will stand a moderate degree of frost, any long continuation of a zero temperature would injure them. When frozen, they should never be handled, as in that condition they are easily blemished, and would rot. "When kept in barrels, holes should be bored in the sides for ventilation, and they should be left unheaded until shipping time, to permit the escape of any moisture that may be generated. for the insects and other enemies that attack the Onion crop, I nm much afraid there are few if any effec- tive remedies. Every year's experience with the enemies that attack plants in the open field convinces me that we can successfully cope with very few of them. The rem- 250 OAUUExVING FOK PROFIT. edy, if -remedy it is, for rust, smut or other mildew para- sites, must, in my opinion, be a preventive one ; that is, whenever practicable, use new land, or renew the old land, by a green crop, such as Eye, Timotliy or Millet, in all sections subject to these diseases. The same plan had better be adopted in all places where the Onion maggot or other insects attack tlie crop. The theory for this practice is, that it is believed that nearly all plants affected by insects or diseases, have such peculiar /o them- selves, and that the germs or eggs lie in the soil ready to fasten on the same crop, if planted without intermission on the same ground, while if a season intervene, tlie larva or germ has nothing congenial to feed on, and is, in consequence, destro3'ed. In practice we usually find that cultivated land " rested " for a season by a grass crop gives a cleaner and healthier crop of whatever vegeta- ble may follow it. THE PRODUCT. The product of the average Onion O'op varies very much, ranging from 300 to 900 busliels per acre, the mean being about GOO bushels per acre. The price, like that of all perishable commodities, is variable, ranging from 50 cents per bushel, the price at which they usually wliolesale in the New York market in fall, to $1 or $1.50 per bushel for winter and spring prices. The estimate, then, of profit per acre may be given about as follows : Manure, per acre. S 73 Plowing, weeding and harvesting- crop, per acre 100 Six pounds seed, average S'2 per pound _.. 13 Kent or interest on land, per acre 9 Marketing- crop, per acre _ 7 Cost $300 Six liundi-ed busliels per acre, at 50 cents 300 Profit $100 VEGETABLES — CARROT. 351 This estimate is a moderate one, for if the crop is sold in spring, the cliances arc that the profit may be two or three times as great. The leading kinds of Onions arc : Extra Early Flat Red.— (See figure 67.) A thin, rather light-colored Onion, a good keeper, and the ear- liest of all. Fig. C7. EXTRA EABLY TLAT KED ONION. Fig. 68. I.ABGB BED WETHEKSWELD ONION. These cuts, which are hardh' half the average natural size, are given to show the shape and relative size of the different kinds. Larf^c Red Wcthersfield.— (See figure 68.) Tins is a favorite sort for general crop. A large yielder and good keeper. Yellow Globe Dan vers. — (See figure 69.) A fine globe-shaped variety, one of the best yielders and a splen- did keeper. Southport Lar^e Yellow Globe,— (See figure 70.) This is perfectly globular in form. It is a good yielder and fine keeper. The Large Ked Globe and the South- 252 GABDElSriNG FOB PROFIT. poi-t Large Wliifce Globe possess the same characteristics as the variety just described, and vary only in the color. Sontbport White Globe.— One of the finest appearing Fig. C9. — T3LL0W GLOBE DAN VEHS ONION. SOHTHPORT 1,\RGE fZLLOW GLOBE ONION. and most saleable sorts we have ; pure white, tine flavor and in every way desirable. It is not quite as good a keeper as some of the colored sorts, but it is a great favorite in the New York market. Southport Red Globe. — Similar to the above in shajie ; color, a deep red ; a good keeper. Berinuda Oilion. — A distinct sort, principally grown in the Island of Bermuda, although the seed cannot be grown there. There are two varieties of it, the A^ hits and the Pale Red. Tbey are both very early, and are the varieties from which as high as 200,00(t bags of Onions have been shipped from Bermuda in one sea- son. It is now being extensively inquired for by t'le truckers in the South, for the reason that it can be grown there as profitably as in Bermuda, which has had VEGETABLES- ONIOlf. 253 lOr thirty years a complete monopoly of its culture. Great care sliould be taken in getting the seed genuine. Veliow Diitcli. — A flat, yellow Onion. A good yielder, but not so desirable as other yellow sorts, on account of its color and shape. This and the Flat Yellow Danvers are very similar. It is one of the heaviest croppers. White Portiisal or Silver Skin. — (See figure 71.) One of the leading sorts of white, flat Onions. A most ex- cellent keeper and good yielder. Fig. 71.— waiTii: poiiTuaAL onion. Fig. 73.— GIANT EOCOA ONION. The following sorts are Italian varieties, and are well adapted for growing in the Southern States : Queen. — This is the earliest of the Italian sorts, small, flat, white and mild-flavored. IVeapolitaii Marzajola.— An early, white, flat Onion, of fine flavor. Giant Roccai — (See figure 73.) A very large-growing globe-shaped variety, of a reddish-brown color; flavor- mild and sweet. 254 GARDENING ¥0R PROFIT. Large White Italian Tripoli and Large Red Italian Tripoli.— (See figure 73.) These grow to a large size, and are later than either of the preceding. Fig. 73. — WBiTE tripol: oniov. Potato Onions are increased by the bulbs as it grows, splitting into .~i\', eight or ten sections, which form the crop from which the "set," or root for next season's planting is obtained. These are planted in early spring, in rows one foot apart, three or four inches between the onions, and, like the Onions raised from sets, are gen- erally sold green, as in that state they are very tender, while in the dry state they are less desirable than the ordinary Onion. Top Onions, so-called, are propagated by the peculiar growth of this variety, which produces a cluster of small bulblets on the Onion stalk, a cluster of bulblets being formed instead of flowers and seeds. In all respects its culture is tlie same as the Potato Onion, only that, as the bulbs are smaller, they can be planted closer. VEGETABLES — PARSLEY. 255 "P ARSliEY .^Petroselinum sativum.) A vegetable in more general use for garnishing than any other plant of our gardens ; it is also extensively nsed in soups, stews, etc. Its cultiyation forms quite an important item in market gardens, particularly under glass. The manner of cultivating it thus is by sowing it between the rows of a growing crop of Lettuce in our cold frames in April. As it is slow to germinate, it only appears at the time the Lettuce is cut off in May. It is then cleared from weeds, hoed, and forms a growth fit to cut a month before that sown in the open ground. After the first cutting has been made in June, it is gen- erally so low in price as not to be worth marketing, so it is allowed to grow through the summer until the first week in September, when it is cut off close to the ground and thrown away, as it is rarely wanted at this season. It is again hoed, and as at this time it makes a short, healthy growth, suitable for keeping well in winter, it is stowed away in ■ narrow, shallow trenches, exactly in the same manner in which we preserve Celery. This way of growing Parsley is, I believe, mainly con- fined to the vicinity of New York, but as the consump- tion of such an article is necessarily limited, this market has been oversupplied of late years. Formerly it has frequently paid twice the value of the sasli that covered it in one season — $6 for a three by six sash. No doubt, in many places, this system of growing woiild be as profit- able as it used to be with us. When not grown under glass, it should be sown thickly in rows a foot apart in early spring in the open ground. Where greenhouses are used for forcing vegetables, Parsley can be nicely grown under the benches, at least as far under as there is partial light. This is best done by sowing the seed in boxes (three or four inches deep, eighteen inches wide, and two feet in length), in August, keeping them out-of-doors until cold 256 GAEDENING FOR PROFIT. weather in November, and then placing them under the benches of the greenhouse, but close to the walk, where they will get the most light, as this space cannot be util- ized for anything else, except for forcing Rhubarb and Asparagus or Parsley. (See Chapter 10, " Greenhousc3 for Forcing Vegetable Crops." ) If Par.^ley is wanted in winter, it will be found to do nearly as well in this posi- tion as in the full light. The varieties are . Henderson's Jilmcrali!.— (See figure 74.) The finest variety for market, decidedly lighter in color than the Fig. 74— EMBRAH) PARSLEY. Double and Moss Curled varieties. Is particularly adapted for garnishing, which is one of the main uses to which Parsley is put. It is now the main sort grown by the market gardeners of New York. E)oublc Curled. — A dwarf growing variety, beautifully carled. The kind most largely grown by market gar- deners, until the introduction of the " Emerald." Fern Leaved. — Distinct and beautiful. Very useful for table decoration, as it appears more like a crested Fern or Mnps than like Pnrslov. VliGETABLES — PARSNIP. 25'? Plain. — Of this yariety the leaves are plain. It is har- dier, however, than any of the curled sorts. Hamburg, or Turnip-Rooted. — A fleshy-rooted kind, the roots of which are used for flavoring soups. PAESNIP. — (Pastinaca sativa.) Of late years our market garden grounds have become too valuable to be used in growing this vegetable, the competition from well cultivated farm lands having brought it down below our paying level. Its cultivation is, in all respects, similar to the Carrot. The soil most suitable is a deep and sandy loam, moderately enriched. It is sown rather thickly in our gardens in early spring, 111 rows which are about twelve or fourteen inches apart ; on farm lands at eighteen or twenty inches, or wide enough for the rows to be worked between by the horse cultivator. Like all vegetables of this nature, it must be thinned out to a distance of about three or four inches between the plants, and our oft-repeated caution about weeds is here again enjoined. Parsnips are used almost exclusively in winter, but in our JSTorthern States what is wanted for winter use must be dug up in fall, and packed away in the manner described under the head of " Pre- serving Vegetables in Winter." What are wanted for sale or use in spring, are best left in the bed where they grew, being entirely hardy in our coldest districts. About one-half is usually dug up and pitted in fall for sale in winter, and the other half left over for spring. But it sometimes happens that the winter supply is ex- hausted before the frost is out of the ground in spring sufficiently to permit of their being dug, and when pro- curable at such times, they command almost fabulous 358 GAKDEXENG FOB PROFIT. prices. However, the average price is just about that of Carrots. The varieties are confined to the Hollow Crowned. — Mostly used by market gardeners. The Student. — Grows a little smaller, but has a more delicate flavor. Early Round. — A small round early sort. PEA. — (Pisum sativum.) The Pea is grown largely for market purposes in nearly every State in the Union, the time at which it is sown and matures being at widely different dates in Xorthem and Southern sections. In any district its highest de- gree of perfection is attained under a comparatively low temperature, hence it is one of the many vegetables de- scribed as best to b3 sown in " early spring." True, it is sown for a succession crop throughout the summer months, even as late as August, but the first sowings everywhere always produce the best results, and it is from the first sowings only that it is mostly offered in market. For market purposes it is more a crop of the farm than of the garden, and many hundred acres are cultivated in Southern Jersey and Long Island for the New York market. Warm, light soils, moderately enriched by stable ma- nure or bone dust, are best adapted to its culture, but if the ground lias been manured the previous year, no ma- nure is needed. The whole crop is marketed by July, and is usually followed by a second crop of Late Cabbages or Turni|is. The two crops togetlier average a profit of fronr CUOO to §^00 per acre, according to earliness. con- dition of soil, etc. There is an important matter con- VEGETABLES — PEA. 259 nected ■with growing Peas, that confines their culture to the vicinity of a town or village — it is the necessity of being able to get a large number of hands to pick at the time they are marketable. The variation in one day in the market is not unusually from $2 to 50 cents per bushel, which shows the great importance of an early crop. From the soft condition in which it is required to be gathered, it is a vegetable not very manageable t.") ship, and the packages, which should be latticed boxes or baskets, should never exceed the capacity of a bushel, when shipped from distances requiring from two to three days in the transit. But even this expense and care are well repaid by the high rates for which the first lots are sold. When grown as a market crop, Peas are rarely ever staked. They are sown in single rows about two inches deep, the rows two to three feet apart, according to the variety or the strength of the soil. When grown in small quantities for private use, they are generally sown in double rows, six or eight inches apart, and staked up by brush, for the taller growing kinds. The varieties are very numerous, but are in a great state of confusion, the same kind being often sent out under a dozen names. The following varieties are well- defined, arranged as our experience gives the order of merit for this locality. PEAS — EXTRA EAELT. First of All.— (See figure 75.) One of the best types of the Extra Early Class, and unsurpassed as a market variety. The pods are of good size and well-filled. A very heavy bearer, and can be picked clean in two pick- ings, thus making it the best sort for early planting in market gardens. It is also very hardy, and when planted in the fall or early spring, as is done in some ■nn.i'ts nf the Smith, iisnnllv stanrla flira pnlrl Vioffr^i- flTon 860 GABDENING FOE PKOFIT. VEGETABLES — PEA. 261 any other sort. One bushel and a half of seed is re- quired per acre. Improved Daniel O'Ronrke and Extra Early.— These are excellent early vai'ieties and great favorites in all parts of the country, but are not so regular in habit as the First of All. These, as well as the First of All, should be sown for a field crop in rows of from two to two and a half feet apart, about one and a half bushel of seed being required for an acre. American Wonder. — (See 6gure 76.) One of the best acquisitions of this generation, but a variety perhaps better suited for private use than to the market gardener. It is early and very productive. The peas are v/rinkled, and its distinctiveness consists in its extremely dwarf growth, which rarely exceeeds ten inches in height. Can be sown at eighteen inches apart ; two bushels of seed is re- quired for an acre. Like all wrinkled peas, the flavor is much superior to the round, or first early kinds. Alaska. — Very distinct and first early; foliage very light green, vines slender. In our trials this year (1886), it was shown to be very productive. rremiiim Gem. — A green, wrinkled marrow, that comes into use just a few days later than the First of All or Improved Daniel O'Eonrke. It grows from twelve to eighteen inches high, is very productive, and of excel- lent flavor. Kentish Invicta. — About five days later than the First, of All and Daniel O'Eourke. Very productive, and pos- sesses fine flavor. Although it is one of the best for can- ning purposes, it is also largely grown for market. McLean's Advancer. — A second early variety, and now a great favorite with market growers in this neighbor- hood, among whom it is often known as the Early 2G3 GAHDEXIXG FOH PROFIT. VEGETABLES — PEA. 363 Champion. It is a green wrinkled Tariety, of delicious flavor. FOB THE GEJSTBEAL CKOP. l^hampion of Eng^Iand. — This is still, by general con- sent, acknowledged to be the best of the late sorts. It is a tall-growing kind, attaining a height of four feet or more, and requires to be stak- ed. The pods and peas are of the largest size. Stratagem.— (See figure 77.) Is a newer variety, and by good judges considered one of the best Peas raised in recent years. It is a dwarf -grow- ing, wrinkled, blue marrow, and produces large, well-filled pods. Yoiksliire Hero, — A splen- did wrinkled green marrow Pea, of a branching habit, and an abundant bearer. Seedsmen on both sides of the Atlantic find their sales for this variety constantly on the increase. Telephone— A newer tall, wrinkled marrow, with enorm- ous pods, which are not al- ways well-filled. In spite of this, it IS becoming a favorite market garden sort. Fig. 77. —STRATAGEM PEA. Bliss' Abundance. — Remarkably productive ; grows from twenty-four to thirty inches high. Bliss' Everbearing. — Also very productive ; grows 264 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. from eighteen to twenty-four inches high. Should be planted tliinly, and is noted for a continuance of bearing. Pride of the Market. — Also a new sort, strong grow- ing, and a wonderful bearer. It grows only from eighteen to twenty-four inches high, producing large pods of Peas of exceptionally fine flavor. Itlack-Eyed and White Marrowfat.— These are both productive and hardy varieties, extensively grown as field Peas, to be used dry. They are also, from their great productiveness, grown largely in both private and mar- ket gardens, but they ai-e not of so fine flavor as most other varieties. PEPPEE,. — {Capsicum annuum.) A tropical plant, that requires to be started in hot-beds or forcing-pits in the Northern States. Tlie most com- mon method is to sow in hot-beds in March, and treat in all respects as directed for the cultivatioii of the Egg Plant. Light sandy soils are rather best suited for its growth, but it will grow tolerably well on aiiv soil. When cultivated for market they are planted in rows two feet apart and fifteen inches between the plants. The crop is only moderately profitable, but it is not grown in large quantities, the main consumption of it being by the pickle factories. The varieties are : l.argc Bell or Bull Nose. — An early variety, of mild flavor, and a favorite sort both for pickling and for use m the natural state. Sweet Mountain or Mamaioth.— Similar to the Bull Nose, but larger and milder in flavor. Used to make stuffed pickles. VEGETABLES — POTATO. 265 Ruby Kiilf?. — Introduced two years ago, and a decided acquisition. The peppers grow from four and a lialf to six inches long by three and a half to four inches thick, are bright-red in color, and are mild and pleasant to the taste. Squash or Toinato-Slia^psd, — Generally grown for pickling, hardly so early as the Bull Nose, but very pro- ductive, and the leading market variety. GoMcn Dawn. — Of the same shape and size as the Large Bell, but of more delicate flavor, while the color, as the name indicates, is a beautiful golden yellow. Cranberry. — One of the best for pickling. The fruit closely resembles the Cranberry in appearance. Lonj? Red Cayenne. — The variety of commerce. Pods small, cone-shaped, scarlet when ripe. It is quite a late variety, but the pods arc as frequently used for pick- ling green as when ripe. POTATO, — {Solanum tuberosum.) The soil acknowledged to be best suited for the Potato is sandy loam ; in all heavy soils it is more subject to disease, and the flavor is also much inferior ; this, how- ever, is true of nearly all vegetables, heavy land inducing a watery insipidity of flavor. Like all robust-growing vegetables, Pototoes can be grown with varying success on soils of all kinds and in all conditions of fertility, but it is every way most profitable to use an abundance of manure when it is at all attainable. In breaking up good pasture land, the decaying sod answers sufiiciently well for the first year in lieu of manure. Manure is applied either in the rows or hills, or broadcast over the surface, and plowed in ; the latter plan being in all cases pre- aOG GAIlDESriXG FOR PROFIT. ferable, when manure can be obtained in sufficient quan- tities. Potatoes, vhen grown for market at the Xoitb, are always a farm crop, the receipts per acre being much too low for the regular market garden. The large quantities that are planted usually prevent the use of manure in any other way except in the rows. AY hen thus applied, fur- rows are plowed out in spring, after the ground has be- come dry and warm, usually three feet apart, and from four to five inches deep. The manure is spread in the furrow, the '• sets '" or "' seed " planted thereon from eight to ten inches apart, and the furrow again covered in by the plow. As .^oon as the shoots are seen above ground the ridge should be at once hoed, and the cultivator run between the rows. As they advance in growth, the soil should be laid up on each side against the row, so as to form a slight ridge. The Potato disease, which has frequently been so dis- astrous in Ireland and parts of [Scotland, has never been very devastating here. It is now well known to be a par- asitical fungus, Peronospora infestcn.i, for which all reme- dies are useless when the crop is attacked. Like all dis- eases of this kind, the only lielp we have is prevention. As far as experiments have gone, they have shown that Potatoes are always less liable to attacks of disease or rot if planted in new land, broken up from the sod, or at least that which has not been long in cultivation. Another enemy to this crop is the well-known Colorado Potato beetle. Fortunately, for this pest we have a cer- tain remedy in Paris green, mixed with twentv parts of flour, applied by dusting while the dew is on the leaves in tlie morning, or after a rain, or else in a liquid form of one ounce of Paris green to ten gallons of water. But which- ever way it is a})plied, it should be begun at the very first appearance of the beetles. If they once get a Joothold, they increase so rapidly that the crop is often destroyed VEGETABLES — POTATO. 267 before the remedy can be of any avail. Paris green being a deadly poison, it is absolutely necessary that fields on ■which Potatoes are growing should, be protected from cattle. It is sometimes supposed that danger might arise from the use of the Paris gi'een afEeeting the Potato tubers. There need be no fear of this, as the tubers do not in any way absorb it. The Long Island farmers, in the neighborhood of New York, have their crops of Early Potatoes sold off early enough in July to get the ground leveled and Late Cab- bages planted on the ridge on which the Potatoes have been growing, sufficient manure being left in the ground to carry through the crop of Cabbage. The two crops together give an average profit of $150 an acre. Potatoes may be preserved during winter by the section pit system recommended for the general preservation of vegetables, or in a frost-proof cellar. The varieties of the Potato are very numerous, many of them having only a local reputation, so that it is some- what difficult to name the best for such an extensive ter- ritory as ours. But few of the varieties named below were, grown twenty years ago. but these are such as are now in very general demand, which indicates that they are the best for general cultivation. Early Rose. — .A. standard variety everywhere. It is still one of the best for earliness, quality and productive- ness yet introduced. Vanguard. — Extremely early, perhaps the earliest of all. Quality unsurpassed, but not quite so heavy a yielder as some others. Pearl of Savoy. — A good yielder and a very excellent variety. The tubers are large and oblong ; flesh, white and mealy. Beauty of Hebron. — One of the best early sorts, being very productive and of fine quality. 268 GARDENING FOK PKOFIT. Empire State. — (See figure 78.) This is a new main crop variety, very productive, and in the estimation of the originator, Mr. Coy (to whom we are indebted for the Beauty of Hebron), a perfect I'otato for general pur- poses. It ia of excellent quality, and a rough and vigor- ous grower. White Elephant. — Is late, large, of good quality, and enormously productive. VEGETABLES — POTATO. 269 Clark's IVo. 1.— (See figure 79.) This is said- to be earlier than the Early Eose, and it is certainly very pro- ductive. The flavor is excellent, and it cooks dry and Fig. 'i'0.— CLAr.K''S NO. 1 POTATO. mealy. A great favorite about Charleston, S. C, where it is grown for the Northern markets. St. Patrick. — One of the handsomest varieties in cul- tivation. The tubers are' smooth, with very few and shallow eyes. A good yielder, and of the best quality. Rural Blush. — Spoken of very highly, both as to yield and quality. Rochester Favorite. — A late sort, tubers white and oblong. It is an excellent market Potato, as it is an im- mense yielder. Triumph. — An early variety, that has given great sat- isfaction, particularly in the South. Very productive, and of good quality. Perfect PcachWow. — (See figure 80.) A most prom- ising new variety, resembling somewhat the old Peach- 270 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. blow in general appearance, but ripening earlier and cooking through very quickly and evenly, a characteristic Fig. 80.— PERrECT PEAOHELOW POTATO. that was wanting in the older Peachblow. The flesh is pure white and the quality excellent. Considerable discussion has at various times occurred concerninfj the relative merits of planting cut or whole tubers, bnt is yet undecided, each method having its ad- vocates ; a fact which goes far to prove that it is of little consequence which way is followed. The best rule, in our experience is. to ]il;int the whole small tubers if fully matured, and cnt the larger ones, bnt in eitlier case leaving enough in bulk of the potato to give sufficient sustenance to tlie plant. The superintendent of one of the State Experimental VEGETABLES — POTATO. 271 Stations, in a recent report on experiments made with Potatoes, gave it as his opinion tlaat by continixally selecting the best tubers, a variety could be permanently improved. Believing this to be an error which should not go forth unchallenged from such an authority, I take the liberty, at the risk of a slight digression, to give a few facts which argue against the belief, published by me in an agricultural journal in 1885, under the head of "Do Plants Vary when Propagated by Cuttings?" On reading what is said about " seed " Potatoes, I notice the assertion is made that "seed" taken from the most productive hills gave a larger yield of tubers than that taken from the least productive. I am inclined to believe that further experiments will show that this in- creased productiveness will not continue to hold, because the reason for the greater or less yield was probably only an accident of circumstances — specially favorable condi- tions of the set made to form the hill, or by being highly fertilized, or some such cause that gave it this tempo- rary advantage — and that the chances are all against any permanent improvement being made by such selections. The Potato is said to have been introduced into Europe in 1584. If the original tubers had had the highest cultivation that the skill of man could give, it is exceedingly doubtful if 300 years of culture would have changed them in the slightest degree, if propagation had been solely from the tubers, and not from seed proper. I base this opinion on a very extended experience in the cultivation of plants from cuttings. Strawberry plants taken from any well known kind, such as Sharp- less, for example, from strong, vigorous growing plants, will certainly give better results than from weak phmts of the same kind planted in the same soil. But if the progeny of the strong and the weak plants are again taken and replanted, the diSerence between the two would hardly be perceptible after they had been growins: to- 273 GAEDENIIfG FOE PROFIT. gether under the some conditions. Every now and then we hear of varieties of fruits or flowers, said to be de- generating, that are propagated from cuttings, grafts or roots. I believe there is no such thing as permanent de- generation of any fruit, flower or vegetable that is raised from cuttings, grafts or roots. The Jargonelle Pear, the Eibston Pippin Apple, the Hamburg Grape or the Keen Seedling Strawberry of the English gardens, are found to look just as good and as bad, under different conditions of culture, us they were fifty or 100 years ago, and that any change, cither for better or worse, is only an accident of circ im-tances, and tempoi'ary. For, be it remembered, that when a plant is raised from cuttings, as in the grape-vine, grafts as in a Pear, or layers as in a Straw- berry, or pieces of the tuber as in a Potato, such parts are not seed proper, but arc merely j)arts of the same indi- vidual that was first called into existence. The Early -Eose Potato, introduced nearly a quarter of a century ago, is Just as good to-day, under proper cultivation, as when first introduced, but it is certainly no better. It is often to be found under unfavorable circumstances, and then may be supposed to have degenerated ; but when it is shown, under other circumstances, to be as fine as when first introduced, how can the assertion of permanent degeneracy be admitted ? Permanent improvement, in mv opinion, in varieties, can only be made by the selection of the fittest speci- mens that have been raised from seed proper. Here wo have, as in the Early Rose Potato, the Sharpless Straw- berry and the Concord Grape, varieties that have shot ahead of their fellows, having merits that the general public recognize, but all the art of man cannot further improve these, so that their "progeny" (to use a con- venient, though, perhaps, not a strictly correct term), when iiicrcasL'd by "sets,"' "layers" and "cuttings," will be permanently bettin- or ^^•orse than when first VEGETABLES— POTATO. 373 called into existence. It is a very common error, when a luxuriant crop of anything is seen growing under specially good culture, to imagine that cuttings, roots or grafts from such plants must necessarily give similar results when the same conditions to grow such crops well are not present. Not long ago Boston was famed for its Rosebuds, and even experienced florists paid double price for stock from such plants, only to find that in their hands these plants would not produce Boston Eosebuds. Now the case is changed. Madison, New JerseVj as a whole, beats Boston in Rose culture, and the demand has changed from Boston to Madison, and, oi course, with the same results, for, if the purchasers of Madison Roses cannot give Madison culture, there will be no Madison Rosebuds. While we admit the advan- tage of a healthy stock, and even, perhaps, the value of a change of stock, what I claim is, that no culture will permanently change the variety from its normal condi- tion, and that the only advance that can be made is by selecting the best specimexis, hybridizing these from their seed, again selecting, and so on forward. To be sure, we have in rare instances what are known to gardeners as " sports," or v/hat Darwin has called "bud variation," which may be improvements on the original variety or the reverse ; but culture, good or bad, has nothing to do with such anomalous cases. We often see it asserted as a matter for wonder, that the wild Celery of English marshes, or the wild Carrot of the liedge rows, have attained their present high condition by "cultivation." If cultivation means that man has through generations "selected the fittest" of these again and again, taking always the " flower of the flock," co as to have attained the present perfection, then that is true ; but if by " cultivation" is meant that " domestication " by high culture, manuring, etc., in a garden or a field has caused such results, then, in iTiv liniTihlfi nninion, if. is not trnt-a. 374 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. PUMPKIN.— (CMCMr&ito Pepo.) The Pumpkin is yet ofEei-ed in large quantities for sale in our marltets, but it ought to be banished from them as it has for some time been from our gardens. But the good people of our cities are suspicious of all innovations in what is offered them to cat, and it will be many years yet before the masses will understand that the modest, and sometimes uncouth looking, Squash is immeasurably superior, for all culinary purposes, to the mammoth, rotund Pumpkin. The Pumpkin is an excellent agricul- tural plant, of great value for cattle, but I only aUude to it here, to denounce its cultivation or use as a garden vegetable. RADISH. — (Raphanus saiivits.) Kadishes are consumed in immense quantities, and are one of the vegetables which we deem of no little im- portance as a market crop. To have them early, a light rich soil is the best ; heavy or clayey soils not only delay their maturing, but produce crops much inferior, botli in appearance and flavor. They are grown Ijy us by various methods ; the most common is, after sowinor a crop of Beets in rows fourteen or fifteen inches apart, to sow Kadishes between. The Radishes come up quick- ly, and are gathered and sold usually in six weeks from the time of sowing. The Beets at this time have only become large enough to be thinned, and will not be ready for at lea«t a month later, so limt the Radish crop is taken from rame ground with little or no injury to the Beet crop. Another method i-^. to sow them be- tween the rows of Early Cabbages or Cauliflowers, where they also are gathered off so soon as not to interfere with these crojis. VEGETABLES — BADISH. 375 These are the methods practiced in our gardens here, where land is so valuable that we must make it always cari'y double, and often treble, crops in a season. Eadishes are also grown in some places very extensively, on land devoted exclusively to that purpose iu spring. Their culture thus is exceedingly simple. The ground being plowed and har- rowed well, the seed is sown, and the harrow again run over, which places the seed at the proper depth. But though the field cultiva- tion of this vegetable is simple, the labor of gathering, tying up, and washing, preparatory for market, is great, which detracts largely from the profits. Perhaps tlie average receipts K^ are $300 per acre, but the expense, before this is realized, is probably one-half that amount. It must be remembered that, in many cases, it is an auxiliary crop, interfering but little with onr main spring crops. It is one of the vege- tables convenient to ship, and the early sam- ples from Norfolk, Virginia, average $7.50 per barrel, of 200 bunches ; or about $750 per acre, which should be a great inducement to soutii- em cultivators, as there is but little danger of glutting the markets with fresh vegetables Fig. 81. shipped from a southern to a northern port, let'shokt- For forcing Radishes under glass, see Chapter '■'"p- 10, on "Greenhouses for Forcing Vegetable Crops." Wood's Early Frame. — This is a favorite with market gardeners, as it is at least ten days earlier than the Long Scarlet Radish, which it very much resembles, although, it is not hardly as long. Lonj? Scarlet Siiort-Toj}. — This variety is grown the country over in rather the largest quantity, as from its shane Cwhen tied ud in flat bunches'), it is best suited to 276 OrAKDEXlXG FOE PROFIT. shipping. In rich, light soils its average length is about nine inches. (See figure 81.) Beckcrt's ^'hartier Radish. — This, shcvn in figure Hi, is decided!}' distinct in uppearimce from ;uiy other Eadish in cuhivation. Its form is well shown by our engraving, the color at the toj) being crimson, running intd i^ink about the middle, and from thence downward it is a pure waxy white. It will attain a very large size before it becomes unfit for (he table. In fact, at nearly all stages of its growth the quality is excellent. It sold rapidly in market during the past season. Early Scarlet Turnip.— More delicate in flavor than the above, and for this rea- son more in demand for home consumption. By al- low"ing it sufficient time to grow, it attains a size of three inclies in diameter, but it is always gathered at half this size. Karly Round Dark Red. — The shape is the same as that of the Early Scarlet Turni]\ and it differs only in the skin, being darker in color, and in making much smaller tops. On tliis account it is now very largely used for forcing in both frames and grecnl.ouscs. This and the preceding varieties are the sorts that are grown most largely for early marketing. (See figure 8'/.) Red Forcinsr Turnip. — The tops of this variety are the smallest of any of the early Eadislies, which, with Fig. 83.— BEOKEHT'S CHAKTIEB RADISH. VEGETABLES— KADISH. 277 its extreme earliness, make it especially valuable fov strictly forcing purposes. White Tipped Scarlet Turnip.— (See figure 84.) An Fig. 83. — EAKLT BOUND DARK Fif;. 81. — WHITE TIPPED TUKNIP KED KADI3H. KADISH. early variety of medium size, very handsome in appear- ance, and of excellent flavor. Frencli Breakfast.— (See figure 85.) A variety of quick growth, very mild and tender, and one of the best Fig. 85.— FKEKCn breakfast Fig. 86.— yellow summer turnip EADISB. RADISH. for forcing. Of oval form ; color, scarlet, tipped with white. 278 GAKDENIXG FOE PROFIT. Olive-Shaped Scarlet. — Of oblong shape ; flesh, rose- ' color, and a good summer variety. Later varieties, grown for fall and winter use : Yellow and Gray Summer Turnip. — \'arieties well suited for summer use, as they stand the heat better than the early sorts. Both are mild in flavor. The yellow variety is shown in figure 80 ; the other is like it, save in color. Chinese llose-colored Winter.— Excellent for winter use ; flesh, firm ; skin of a bright rose color. Long and Round Black Spanish. — Aery hardy vari- eties. They are often preserved, keeping as well as any other ropt, in sand, until mid-winter, in a cellar or root- house. They are of large size, but rather harsh in flavor. Color, grayish-black. RHUBAEB.— (-R'"'""' Rhaponticum). Rhubarb is now cultivated largely for market purposes in the vicinity of all large cities, and few private gar- dens are without it. Its culture is of the simplest kind. It is a plant that adapts itself to almost any soil, pro- vided it is well drained, artificially or otherwise. The preferable soil for Rhubarb, as for most vegetables, is a deep, sandy loam. Whatever the soil, it should be plowed from ten to twelve inches deep, the subsoil plow following in the wake of the other, stirring to the depth of ten or twelve inches more ; after plowing, harrow deeply and thoroughly. After the soil is prepared, lines are struck out by the plow four feet apart from each side of the field or plot, so that they will intersect at right nngles. At these points the plants are set, first mixing with the soil three or four shovelfuls of well-rotted manure for each plant. VEGETABLES — RHUBAEB. 379 The time of planting in the Northern or Western States may be either in the fall or spring ; at the South the fall is preferable. Rhubarb is usually propagated by division of the old roots ; each eye or bud, when broken apart with a root attached, forming a plant. But making a plantation of any great extent in this way is expensive to the begin- ner ; as the roots are rarely to be purchased under $50 per 1,000 eyes, and as about 3,000 plants are required for an acre, quite an outlay is necessary. This expense may be obviated by increasing the plants by seeds, instead of by division of the roots. In the Northern State::, the best time to sow the seed is about the middle of April, in the open ground, in rows a foot apart, if the plants are to be again transplanted ; 'if to be left where sown, the rows must be three feet apart, and the plants thinned out in the rows to one foot apart. But as this latter plan requires the occupation of the land too long, the usual way is to sow closely and trans- plant. Care must be taken that the seed is well trodden in with the feet, as it is very light and rather slow to germinate. The soil best suited is a rich sandy loam, which should be thoroughly pulverized, and the surface made completely level before sowing. The plants may be transplanted from the seed-bed either in fall or spring. The first season after planting, no stalks should be pulled, but the next year a full return may be expected if proper attention has been given to cultivation. It IS exceedingly difficult to name the annual profits from an acre of Rhubarb in full bearing, as everything depends upon earliness. Even here, in the vicinity of New York, growers vary in their statements from $100 to $300 per acre. The difference of a week in earliness often makes a difference of $150 and $200. It may be safe to say, however, tliat it will average, in 280 GAEDEXING FOK PROFIT. this vicinity, a j)rofit of 8250 per acre annually from the date of planting ; in many places where there is less competition, no doubt double or treble that amount may be realized. Ehubarb is a most simple and convenient plant for forcing, which may be done in the following manner : The roots are dug from the open ground in fall, put close together in a box or barrel, and soil sifted in to fill the interstices between the roots ; they are then ]ilciced in a situation where the temperature will range from fifty-five to about seventy-five degrees, with a moderate amount of moisture. By this treatment Rliubarb may be had from January to April. The roots may be placed wherever there is the necessary temper- ature. Light is not at all necessary ; in fact, the stalks of Ehubarb arc much more crisji and tender when forced without exposure to direct light ; hence the roots may be placed in the furnace room of a cellar, under the staging of a groouhonse, or in an early forcing grapery. A florist in Bo-tmi told me a few year.-; ago, that he had sold enough Ehubarb, grown under his greenhouse stages, tu pay his coal bill (over 8100), besides having all he wanted for his family use. Eliubarb is forced quit« ex- tensively by some of our market gardeners ; the method pursued by them is to lift the roots from the open ground in the fall, place them as closely together as pos- sible in such pits or frames as are used for hot-beds, but about two feet deep, sifting in soil so as to fill the spaces between the roots. On the approach of cold weather, the whole is covered over with a font or so of dry leaves. and so remains until about February first, when the leaves are removed and sashes placed on the frames. Sometimes this is not done until March, the sashes being then used whicli have been covering Cabbage plants through the winter. But little ventilation is given to tlie frames at this cold season, as it is necessary to raise the temperature of the frame by the r.etiou of the sun's VEGETABLES — RHUBAKB. 281 rays, so as to forward the crop. It greatly aids the for- warding if the sashes are covered up at night by straw mats or shutters. Ehubarb so forced matures alout one month before it is marketable from the open ground, and averages about 110 for each three by six foot sash. It must be borne in mind, however, that forcing com- .'■■t'- ■Ml ■ « lh.,.j ■14 ^ r Fig. 87. — ST. martin's bhubaeb. pletely destroys the roots, and for that reason it is only practiced by those who have a surplus that they would otherwise throw away. The principal varieties in cultivation are : St. Martin's. — (See figure 87. ) A new London variety, which is by far the best, being of rich spicy ilavor, enormously productive, and of the largest size of stalk. The other two well-known kinds are "Linnaeus" for early, and "Victoria" for late crops. 282 GAEDENIXG FOR PROFIT. mmimi SAGE.— (SoZcto officinalis). See Thyme, and other Sweet Herbs. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PXANT. (Tragopogon porrifolius). This vegetable is coming rapidly into general use ; patches of an acre in extent are seen in some of the more extensive gardeus here, that a few years ago grew only a few rows. It should be sown in early spring. Its culture is in all re- spects similar to that of Carrots, and al- though its consumption is as yet limited, for what is grown of it, the prices are high and very remunerative. It is more- over a safe root to cultivate, for, being entirely hardy, there is no risk whatever of its being injured by frost, should it so happen that tlie digging up is neglected in the hurry of fall work. It is gener- ally better, however, to dig it up and put it away as wc do Parsnips or Car- rots, so that it can be had at any time during winter. It usually sells at higher rates in spring than in fall or winter ; but even with the advance in price is less profitable to the grower when sold m spring, as that being a busy season, tlie labor expended in digging it up and getting it realy, is then of much more value. As this vegetable will be unknown to many, I will state that it is used in various ways, but generally boiled or stewed, like Parsnips or Carrots. It is also used to VEGETABLES — SCORZOKEKA — SEA KALE. 283 make a soup, which has a decided fiaTor of the oyster. It is also eaten as a salad, sliced and dressed with vine- gar, salt and pepper. There are no yarieties. SCORZONERA-BLACK SALSIFY. {Scorzonera Hispanica). Very similar to the above in general character, and of the same culture and use. It is not, however, so gener- ally esteemed as the Oyster Plant, and is not grown ex- cept for private use, and even for that purpose sparingly. SEA KALE, — (Crambe maritima). This vegetable is much esteemed and grown largely for market purposes, both m England and France, and no private garden of any extent in either country iS consid- ered complete without it. Here, however, even yet we seem to make but little headway in its cultivation. I have rarely seen it offered for sale in our markets, and its culture is practiced in but few private gardens. There is an impression that it is difficult of culture in onr climate ; this is not so by auy means ; it is equally as easy to grow it here as it is in England, only that, like all vegetables requiring artificial heat for its per- fection, its cultivation is attended with more expense than that of vegetables that we plant in the open ground, without other care than to keep them clear of weeds. It IS increased either by roots or by seed ; when roots can be obtamed to start with, they are quicker. The manner of operating with them is as follows : In fall, a few old plants of Sea Kale are dug up, and the roots cut in pieces of from two to three inches m length ; these are placed in boxes of sand in a dry cellar until 284 GAKDENING FOK PROFIT. February or March ; they are tlion strewn on the surface of a hot-bed, where, in a week or two they will emit roots and. tops ; they are then potted or planted in shallow boxes two or three inches apart, hardened off for a few weeks, and as soon as the weathe?' is settled, planted out in rows three feet apart, and two feet between the plants. If the ground is in the condition that it should be. Sea Kale, thus treated, will produce crowns strong enough to give a crop the next season after plant- ing. When grown from seed, the seed should be sown in hills at the above distances apart, in the early spring, each hill being thin- ned out to three or four plants. In our colder lati- tudes, the crowns should be covered by four or six inches of manure or leaves as a protection from frost. Sea Kale is only fit for use in the blanched state, con- sequently on the approach of spring, the "crowns" should be covered with some light material, such as sand or leaf mold, to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches, so that the young shoot, being thus excluded from the light, will become blanched in growing through this covering ; or sometimes cans, made for the purpose, or inverted flower pots are used, the only object ,being to Fig. 89. — SEA KALE. VEGETABLES — SHALLOTS — SOflREL. 2ii5 exclude light. In England it is forced extensively by covering over the whole beds with leaves, manure or some heating material. The young shoots, when cooked, have a flavor something between Asparagus and Cauli- flower, but is much preferred to either. The engraving (fig. 89) shows a young shoot when ready for the table. The fully developed leaves are laj'ge and robust. SHALLOTS. — [AlKum Ascalonicum.) This vegetable, which is used in the green state in early spring as a substitute for Onions, is planted by dividing the bulbs in September, and planting m rows one foot apart and six inches between the plants ; it makes a slight growth and forms its roots in the fall. On the opening of spring it develops rapidly, and the single bulb, planted in September, will have increased by May a dozen fold. From its hardy nature, coming in at least three weeks earlier than the Onion, large quantities are sold at rates corresponding with tliose of Onions raised from sets. It, with us, has ever been a profitable vege- table to raise, and I have rarely found the profits on an acre to have been less than $300. It is generally cleared off by the last week in May, giving sufficient time to follow with second crops of Early Cabbage, Beets, Tur- nips, etc. SOUREL, — [Rumex Acetosa). A well-known perennial plant, cultivated to some ex- tent with us. It IS used in soups and sauces, mostly by the Germans and French. In the French markets it is nearly as abundant as Spinach is in ours, and is highly recommended as a wholesome vegetable. Its cultivation is very simple. . Seeds, sown thinly in rows iw early 386 GA.KDENIN« POE PilOFIT. spring, -will give a heavy crop of leaves in June and July ; when the flower-stalk of the Sorrel starts to grow, it should be cut out, which will add greatly to the devel- opment of the leaves. The crop may be left two sea- sons, but is more tender when annually raised from seed. SPINACH. — {Spinacia oleracea.) This is a very important crop in our market gardens, hundreds of acres of it being cultivated in the neighbor- hood of New York. It is one of the most manageable of all vegetables, requiring but little culture, and may be had fit for use the entire season. In our market gardens it is sown in early spring as an auxiliary crop, between the rows of Early Cabbage ; it comes to perfection usually in four or five weeks after sowing. At this season, it sells at a low price, usually about fiity cents per barrel ; but it requires but little labor, and generally pays about $50 per acre of profit. The main and important crop is sown in drills one foot apart, in this section from 1st to 15th September, or late enough in fall to get about half grown before cold weather sets in. It is sometimes covered up in exposed places with straw or salt hay during winter, whi.;li pre- vents it being cut with the frost ; but in sheltered fields here there is no necessity for covering. * Any soil that will grow a good Corn crop will grow Spinach, though, as is the case with all other vegetables in which the leaf or stem is the part used, the land can hardly be made too rich. Our practice is to grow it on our best soils, applying not less than fifty tons of well- rotted stable manure to the acre, or in lieu of stable manure, one ton of bone dust ; or about 1,200 pounds of guano sown after plowing, and deeply harrowed in. The rows are made with the ordinary garden '•' marker," VEGETABLES — SPIN"ACII. 28'/ at the distance of twelve or fifteen Indies apart. The seed is sown rather thickly; we prefer to do it always by hand, using from ten to fifteen pounds per acre ; when thickly sown the plants can be thinned out, so that a much larger yield will be given. We sow here from the 5th to the 15th of September, and quite frequently sell, by thinning oiit, fifty or seventy-five bari'els from an acre, which usually in October and November sells for $1 per barrel. This thinning out, which is done by cut- ting out the plants where thickest with a knife, if care- fully performed, does not at all injure the main crop, which is to stand over winter until spring, I may hero caution the inexperienced of the necessity of treading down the soil on the seed, if the land is dry ; the crop is often ruined by the want of tliis precaution, in continued hot, dry spells that are frequent with -us during Septem- ber. If the soil is left loose, the hot air shrivels up the seed so that it will never germinate. The best way is to tread in each row with the feet, and in addition to use a roller. Probably one-half of all Spinach seed sown in fall fails to germinate, and from no other cause than the failure to thus firm the seed. The same precaution is necessary in the sowing for Cabbage and Lettuce plants ; at this season these are often lost from the same cause. Fair crops give a yield of 200 barrels per acre .(average price, $2 per barrel); at a high estimate the expenses will not exceed $250 per acre, so that it is safe to claim a net profit of $150, although extraordinary crops often do much more than this. The ground can be cleared early enough in May to follow the Spinach with a crop of Flat Dutch or Early Summer Cabbage. Spinach is hardy enough to grow in almost any part of the country ; but m districts where the thermometer falls below zero, it IS necessary to cover it up about Christmas with hay, straw, or leaves, to the depth of two or three inches ; it 38S GAKDESING FOE PilOFIT. is best done just as a snow storm is setting in, as tlie snow settles down the covering and keeps it from blowing off. Spinach is now largely grown at JN'orfolk, Virginia, and other sections of the South, which has, of late years, seriously interfered with the Northern grown crop. Fig. 90.— NORFOLK SAVOT-LEAVED SPINACH. The quantity of seed per acre is from eight to twelve pounds, according to the distance between rows. Since the early editions of this book fippearcd, our list has been increased by two or three varieties of Spin- ach that are not only distinct in appearance, but which, in many sections of the country, are now grown to the exclusion of the older varieties. The "Savoy-Leaved" and the '"Thick-Leaved" sorts, are both varieties that have secured this popularity. VEGKTABLES — SPUSTACII. 389 Norfolk Savoy-Leaved.— (See figure 90.) This pro- duces nearly twice the weight of crop of the older varie- Fig. 91. — THICK-LEAVED SPrfTACH. ties, and has a further value in the fact that it is the hardiest of all varieties of Spinach. In appearance the leaf is wrinkled in the same manner as the Savoy Cab- Fig. 93.— LOWG STANDIHO SPINACH. bage, hence the name. From the tendency of this sort to run to seed, it should never be sown in spring. 390 GAEDENINtt FOB PROFIT. Tbick-Learcd. — (See figure 91). This is one of the best market sorts. It produces a large, thick, strong, green leaf, somewhat crumpled, and possesses the valua- ble quality of standing a long time before running to seed. Tliis variety is equally good for spring or fall. Long Standing. — (See figure 92). Except in the peculiarity that it stands a long time before running to seed, this variety, in all other respects, closely approaches the well-known Bound Leaf, but it certainly has the char- acteristic of not running to seed. Round Leaf. — This is the variety so generally culti- vated for winter use, being very hardy, standing our severest winters with little injury. Large Round Leaf Viroflaj . — A heavy growing sort, resembling the Thick-Leaved ; hardy. Prickly. — Although this variety is usually sown in the spring and summer, it also stands well in winter, but gives less bulk per acre than the others named. SPIlfACH.— SuBSTrruTES for. As Spinach will not endure the hot suns of summer, it running up to seed at once if sown in hot weather, several plants are used as substitutes, and though these are not grown for market, they are very convenient in the family garden. One of these is the Swiss Chard, mentioned under Beet, several forms of which are sold as Spinach Beet and Perpetual Spinach. Perhaps the best substitute for Spinach in the summer months is the New Zealand Spinacli. — {Tetragonia expaiisa).—A plant of the same character and uses, but of a different genus, and used only in private gardens. It is a remark- VEGETABLES — SPIHrAOH— SQUASH. 291 able plant,, of low brandling habit, growing with won- derful luxuriance during hot weather, single plants often measuring six feei; in diameter. The leaves are used exactly as common Si^inach ; it is best grown bj mowing the seeds after the soil is well warmed, and trans- plantiug to three feet apart in very rich, warm soil. Orach. — {Airiplex liortensis.) — Another plant of the same family,' and its leaves are used in the same manner as Spinach. It succeeds best if sown where it is to grow. — in rich, moist soil. "Sprouts," Kale or Borecole. — {Brassica oleracea. Var. Salellica.) A form of the Cabbage grown in all respects like Spinach. It is equally hardy and affords similar profits under like conditions. Like Spinach, it is now largely grown at Norfolk, Virginia, and in other places farther South. It is also grown in the North- ern States, but not to the same extent with Spinach, probably in the proportion of one to ten only ; about half the quantity of seed is required for Sprouts as for Spinach, or about four to six pounds per acre. The kinds used for market are the Dwarf Curled or German "Sprouts," the Early Dwarf Curled, and Dwarf Green Curled Scotch, the first-named being that used to trans- plant the others, being grown like Spinach. SftUASH,— (C«citr6ite Pepo, and C. maxima.) A class of vegetables embracing more marked distinc- tions in sorts, fitted for more varied uses, and to be found, during the extremes of the season, m a better state of perfection, than, perhaps, any other product of our gardens. Being of ti'opical origin, their growth is all consummated during summer ; yet the fruit of the " winter varieties " may be kept, with a little care, until May. They are all of luxuriant and vigorous growth, 292 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. and although they will grow readily on almost any soil, yet there is hardly anytliing cultivated that will so well repay generous treatment. Like all plants of this class, it is useless to sow until the weather has become settled and warm ; next to Lima Beans, Squashes should be the last vegetable planted. Light soils are best suited for their growth, and it is most economical of manure to prepare hills for the seeds in the ordinary manner, by incorporating two or three shovelfuls of well-rotted ma- nure with the soil for each hill ; for the bush varieties, the hills should be from three to four feet each way, and for the running sorts from six to eight feet. Eight or ten seeds should be sown in each hill, thinning out after they have attained tlieir rough leaves, leaving three or four of the strongest plants. They are extensively grown for market, but are not sufficiently profitable for our highly cultivated gardens, and are therefore grown rather as a farm-garden, crop. They vary in profit, in our vicinity, of from $100 to $25 per acre. The early varieties are grown quite exten- sively in the vicinity of Norfolk, Charleston and Savan- nah, and shipped North, from two to four weeks earlier than they can be had here, and, like all such commodi- ties, bring three or four times the price of those grown in this vicinity, in quantities that glut the market. The varieties are very numerous, and from the facility with which they will cross, it is Tery difficult to retain the different kinds pure. SUMMER VARIETIES. Yellow and White Bush Scalloped.— (See figure 93.) These varieties are the two kinds that ai-e considered the earliest, and are grown almost exclusively for mai'ket for first crop. From the hard texture of the rind, they are well fitted for shipping, and are grown exclusively at VEGETAIJLES — SQUASH. 293 tlie South for that purpose. Plant three to four feet apart in hills. Bush Summer Crook-Neck. — A much esteemed vari- ety in private gardens. Somewhat similar to the pre- ceding in growth, but rather more dwarf. The fruit is orange yellow, covered with warty excrescences. It is considered the best yielder of the summer vtiriutics. Bostou MarroWi — This variety may be termed second early, coming in about ten days after the bush and crook- Fig. 93. ■WniTB BUSH SCALLOPED SQUASH. ESSEX HYUKIU SQUASH. neck sorts. The skin, which is of an orange-yellow color, is very thin, the flesh being' dry, fine-grained, and of unsurpassed flavor. FALL AND WTNTER VARIETIES. Essex Hybrid.— (See figure 91.) Very fine-grained, rich and sweet, and a splendid keeper. The flesh is very thick and solid. As a Squash for winter keeping it is unsurpassed. Hubbard. — (See figure 95.) A general favorite, and more largely grown as a late sort than any other. It is of large size, often weighmg from nine to ten pounds. 294 GAEDENING FOE PEOFIT. Color, bluish-greeu, occasionally marked with brownisli- orange or yellow, llesli, fine-grained, dry, and of excel- Fig-. 95. — HUBBAliD SQCTASH. lent flavor. It can be had in use from September to May. Plant in hills eight feet ;ii)art. IHarblchcad, — An excellent variety, introduced by Mr. Gregory. The flesh is rather lighter in color than that of the Hubbard, but it resembles that variety iu shape, although it has a harder shell. It is productive, of rich and excellent flavor, and a fine keeper. Plant eight feet apart. Mammoth t'hili. — Grows to an immense size, often weighing 200 pounds. E.^cellent for all purposes. Plant nine feet apart. Winter Crook-IVcck. — A variety largely grown in some of the Eastern States, where it is often kept the entire winter. Skin, reddish-pink when matured ; flesh, close- grained and sweet. Plant in hills nine feet apart. Vegetable flJarrow.— A favorite English sort. The fruit is very variable in size, ranging from nine to eighteen VEGETABLES — SWEET PO'J'ATO. 295 inches in length by from four to six inches in dijimeter. The skin is greenish-yellow ; flesh, white, soft and of rich flavor. It is entirely distinct from all of the pre- ceding. Plant eight feet apart. SWEET TOTATO.—{Ipomcm Batatas.) The Sweet Potato requires a rich, light, warm soil. It is more generally grown in the Southern States than the common Potato, as there the soil and climate are more eongenial to it. We have often difficulty, in tliis dis- trict, in saving the tubers sound enough until spring, to start for sprouting to produce young plants. The great essentials to their good preservation are a dry and rather warm atmosphere ; the cellar, suitable to preserve the common Potato, being usually much too cold and damp for this. Where there is no place of the necessary high temperature, it is best to get them in spring direct from some Southern market, where they can always be had in good condition ; or they can be kept by packing in barrels in dry sand and keeping them in a warm room. In this district we begin to start the potatoes in hot-beds or forcing-pits about the middle of April, laying tliem thickly together on a two-inch layer of sand and leaf mold composted together, or sand alone will suit if leaf mold cannot be had. As soon as the buds or eyes show signs of starting, cover the roots completely over to the thickness of an inch with the same material. Treat as for other tender plants in the hot-bed or forcing-pit, and the sprouts or slips will be ready for planting out by the first of June. Market gardeners often make the sale of Sweet Potato plants a very profitable operation, immense quantities of 29G OAUDENIfrG FOU PliOFTT. them being sold to private growers at the planting sea- son. As the sprouts from the potatoes come up very thickly, repeated thinnings are made, Avhich is not only profitable to the grower, but of great advantage to the remaining plants, by giving them the necessaiy room to grow. One grower in this vicinity informed me that last season he sold upwards of $1,000 worth of plants from 150 sashes, •which were sold at an average of $1.25 per 1,000. The profit from the cultivation of the plant in the field is something less than that from Tomatoes, but more than from the common Potato. In Southern Xew Jersey and further south, these beds are not covered with glass, but with a light covering of straw or coarse hay, to i-etain the warmth, but the beds must not be thus made before the first week in May, in New Jersey. This is removed when tlie plants appear. In sections of the country where Sweet Potatoes are grown even to a small extent, there are generally men who make a business of growing the plants, which are often to be bought as low as 81 per 1,000, and it will be found better for the grower to purchase than to raise them himself, if he has not the proper convenience of sashes and hot-beds. The plants are set out in rows three or four feet distant, and about two feet apart in the rows, using a good shovelful of well-rotted manure, mixed in, for each hill. They are always i^lanted in light, sandy soil, heavy soils being entirely uncongenial to the nature of the root. As they advance in growth the rows are hilled up with the plow in the same man- ner as ordinary Potatoes, care being taken, liowe\e)', to prevent the vines, as they hang over, from rooting in the sand. This is done by running along the \ines, occa- sionally under tlicm, with the hand to break the youiig roots and keep them from striking into the soil. If this were not done it would divert the growth from the main root, and the potatoes would be small and nearly VHflKTABLES — SWEET I'OTATl). 297 worthless. In the Northern States, Sweet Potatoes must always be used previous to December, unless they can be kept in a warm place. In the South :u'n States they are kept in pits in the open ground in much the same way as we keep ordinary Potatoes at the North ; but the temperature of the soil is of course much higher in Florida and other extreme Southern States than at the North. Most of the Sweet Potatoes that find their way to our Northern markets in the winter and spring months, are grown in Georgia, Soutli Carolina and other Southern States. They are preserved in the South by storing them in houses specially built for that purpose. The Potatoes are packed in boxes not more tban eigliteen inches deep, wliicli are placed in tiers one above the other, leaving spaces between for ven- tilation. But ill extremely cold weatlier it is necessary that the apartment should be heated in some way so that the temperature at no time is allowed to fall below fifty degrees. There is no necessity for packing anything around them ; if the heat in the apartment is sufficient, they will keep by the air circulating around them among the shelves or boxes in which they are placed. Probably the best temperature at which Sweet Potatoes can be kept in winter is sixty degrees. Tlie following are the sorts mostly grown : Nanscinondi — This is the earliest sort ; tubers large, from three to four inches in diameter at the thickest part, tapering to each end, and from five to eight inclies lon'j ; flesh dry, sweet and well flavored. Red Skinned. — This variety is claimed to be hardier than the preceding, but it is dotibtful if this is the case. It is a long, slender variety, mostly grown in private gardens, and is thought to be of a richer flavor than the yellow or white sorts. Yellow Skinned.-— This sort is mainly cultivated ii! tlie 208 GARDKXISfJ I0]{ PllOFIT. Southern States, Avlierc it attains nearly tlie weight of the Nansemond ; it requires a loilger season than that variety, and is not so suitable for the Korth. It is of excellent flavor and more free from stringiness than any other sort. TOMATO. — (Lycopersicum esculentum.) This vegetable is one of the most important of all gar- den products ; hundred of acres are now planted with it in the vicinity of all large cities, and the facility with which it is managed, places it readily under the control of tlie least experienced. It is now grown here almost en- tirely by those who grow Peas, Potatoes, Melons, and other crops of the "farm gardens," as our market gardens proper arc too highly enriched and much too limited in extent to render the cultivation of the Tomato profitable. To produce early crops, the seed must be sown in hot-beds or forcing-pits, about ten weeks before the plants may be safely put in the open ground. Thus, in this dis- trict, we sow in the hot-bed about the first week iu March ; in April the plants are fit to be set out, at a distance of four or five inches apart, in another hot-bed. They are grown there (proper attention being given to the hot-beds, as directed under that head) until the middle of May, when it is safe to place them in the open ground. They are planted, for early crops, on light sandy soil, at a distance of tlirec feet apart, in hills, in which a good shovelful of rotted manure has been mixed. On heavy soils, which are not suited for an early ci'op, they should be plii.nted four feet apart. Some attach great importance to topping the leading shoo-t of the Tomato, so that it will branch, arguing that by this means we get an earlier VEGETABLliS — TO-\IATO. 399 and heavier crop; all our experience shows that little benefit is derived from the practice. Like all vegetables grown on so large a scale, and in such varying soil and climate, the Tomato sells in our markets at prices varying widely, from $6 down to 25 cents per bushel, the average price for those raised in the district, being about 75 cents per bushel. The quantity raised per acre is about 400 bushels. This may seem at first glance to be quite a profit- able crop for a farmer ; but every acre necessitates the use of at least 100 sashes, for, on the second transplanting, only about fifty plants can be grown to a sash, and about 5,000 plants are required for an acre. On one occasion, having a very suitable soil, I grew about four acres of Tomatoes for three years, which realized me from $1,500 to $2,000 annually in recei2}ts ; but I discovered that the operation was a losing one, as, to raise 20,000 plants for my four acres, I had to make use of 400 sashes, in which, in rather less time and with far less labor than it took to grow the Tomato plants, Lettuce could have been grown that would have sold for at least 12 per sash. Thus I lost annually, in preparing for the Tomato plants, half the receipts of the crop even before they were planted out. But there are many parts of the country where Lettuce, thus forwarded, could not be sold, while Tomatoes could, which would materially change the aspect of the opera- tion. In the southern sections of the country, convenient to shipping, Tomatoes are largely grown for the northern markets, and sold there at prices highly remunerative to the grower. In many instances, in the Southern States, the cultivation of Tomatoes for market is carelessly done, the seed being sown in the open ground and the plants transplanted, as we do Cabbages. No doubt, by starting in January or February with the hot-beds, or even cold ■frames, and planting out in March or April, they could be had at least two weeks earlier than they are now sent to us. In some localities thousands of acres of Tomatoes 300 ({ARDEXrXG FOR PROFIT. are now grown by farmers, under contract for canning purposes, oftea as low as 30 cents per bushel, and, on suitable land, even thij low price will pay better than most farm crops, as there is usually no necessity for having the crop early fo;- canning. There arc always some one or more varieties, said to be earlier than others, sent out every spring, but it must be confessed that the varieties that we cultivated twenty years ago are not a day behind in earliness those issued as "vastly superior" in 1886. To test them thoroughly, I planted twenty-five plants each of the four most popular sorts, under circumstances exactly similar in all respects; there Avas no difference wliatever in earliness, and but little perceptible dilTerence in productiveness. In my opinion, the extreme point of earliness in Toma- toes has been reached years ago, and now all further im- provements must be in point of size, smoothness and so- lidity ; and that any one laying claim to having good varieties a speeifiid number of days or weeks earlier than those we already liavc, does so without havinga knowledge of the subject, or with the desire to impose on the public. The Tomato i„a plant requiring at all times a certain high temperature to ripen its fruit ; and tliougii it may ripen in Georgia in ilay, in A'irginia in June, in Delaware in July, or in New Jersey in August, it requires the same aggregate amount of heat to do the work. The same is true of most fruits and vegetables ; we reach a certain jjoint of e;irliness with a given variety in a given locality, when the temperatiire tells us we must stop. If improve- ment in earliness wero progressive, we might have reason to expect tliat tlie Eadish or Lettuce, wliich matures witli ns in t'.e upen ground here in 31uy. would yet mature in April. I believe that our ordinary methods of saving Tomato and all other seeds, in fact, do much to prevent us from making :inv advance in procuring choice varieties ; if VEGETABLES — TOMATO. 301 we would only take the trouble to always select the first matured fruits, and the best specimens only, for seed, and so continue, there is no question whatever but it would amply repay the trouble. But the grower for market grudges to give up his first basket of fruit, that may realize him $5 or $6, for a few ounces of seed, know- ing that he can get plenty when his crop in not worth the gathering for market. But, depend upon it, he makes a mistake, for the seed from his first fruits would, perhaps, pay him a hundred times better, if used for sowing the next year, than any price he might get for it in the market. In private gardens, where space is often limited, a greater quantity of fruit will be obtained by elevating the branches of the Tomato from the ground with brush, such as is used for sticking Peas, or by tying to laths nailed against a board fence ; or, what is neater yet, the hoop training system as practised in France. Bnt for market purposes, on a large scale, it would require too much labor. The following, at t])is date, are. the leading kinds : Mikado. — (See figure 96.) This is the second season that we have grown this variety, and I predict that it will be certain to become a standard sort. It is one of the earliest of the large Tomatoes ; in color purplish-red ; fruit produced in immense clusters, single fruits often weighing one pound and a half each. The Mikado is entirely distinct in foliage from any other Tomato, which allows it to always be distinguished. Acme— Very early and handsome, fruit of medium size, perfectly smooth and regular, very solid, and a good keeper. Color distinct, being crimson with a pinkish tinge. In some markets the color would be a detriment ; in others, again, it would be considered no disadvantage. Par.asoii. — The description of the Acme will answer for this, except thai; in the Paragon the color is of a 802 GARDENING FOE PEOriT. VEGETABLES — TOMATO. 303 bright, glossy crimson, and entirely free from the pinkish tinge that characterizes the Acme. PerfectiCH.— (See figure 97.) Color blood red. It is as early as the Canada Victor (one of the first to ripen), / » Fig. 97.— PEr.FECTION"TOMATO. almost round in shape, perfectly smooth, and very solid. Of the best quality and enormously productive. Canada Victor. — One of the earliest, of medium size, bright red, and very symmetrical in shape. Trophy. — No Tomato ever introduced created the furore that this did when it was first brought out. It is unsurpassed in size, flavor, and productiveness, but is now superseded by others in earliness and smoothness. Ccneral Grant. — The fruit of this is large and of good quality, and ripens evenly and thoroughly. Hathaway's Excelsior.— An early variety, of medium size, smooth, very solid, and of excellent quality. Red aisd Yellow Plum Tomato.— Beautiful varieties, never exceeding two inches m length by one inch in diameter. Mainly used for pickling and preserving. 304 GAEDENING FOR PaOEIT. TURNIP. — (Brasaica oampestris.) The cultivation of tlie Turnip as an earlij crop for market purposes, sold bunched in the green state, is in all i-espects the same as detailed for Early Beets. The profits of the crop are also similar. The Turnip, how- ever, for early crops, is rather more particular about soil than the Beet, and can best be produced early on light sandy or gravelly soils, highly enriched with manure. For late crops, sowings may be made, for Euta Bagas, from May to September, in the different sections of the country ; here, the finest roots are obtained by sowing about first week in June. For white and yellow varie- ties, as they como quicker to maturity, sowing should be delayed four or five weeks later. Here, we sow from the middle of July to the middle of August. Turnips, whether for early or late crops, should always be sown in drills, about fourteen or eighteen inches apart. In large quantities, they are sown by the machine, when one pound of seed will be enough for an acre. In the Northern States it is necessary to take them up on the approach of severe weather, when they are best pre- served during winter by being pitted, as recommended for other roots. The late crops of Turnips are by no means bo profitable as the early, rarely realizing to the grower more than $75 per acre ; but like most other late crops of the garden or farm, they can be grown with less manure, are less perishable if not immediately sold, and are consequently grown by the farmer on his less valuable but more extensive grounds. Again let me reiterate the necessity for firming tlie soil around the seeds of the Turnip crop, sown in the dry, hot weather in August. Thousands of acres fail to germinate from no other cause, while in England in 1885 fully one-half of the crop seemed to me was lost, solely from lack of this pre- VEGETABLES— TURNIP, 305 caution. There had been no rain, even to lay tlie dust, for a period of eight weeks in summer — an experience almost unprecedented there, and no provision had been made for firming the soil over the seed, and as a con- sequence it was shriveled and dried, and failed to grow. We here h^ve nearly always such hot, dry weather when rig. 98.— WHITE BQO TURNIP. Fig. 99.— EXTBA EAKIT MILAN TURNIP. Turnips are sown for late crops, and hence the necessity of always firming the soil. The following are the leading varieties grown : White EffS- — (See figure 98.) This in shape, is nearly oval or egg, its flesh is firm and fine-grained, skin thin and smooth. The flavor is mild and sweet, rendering it 306 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. very desirable for table use, while its attractive appear- ance makes it a most saleable variety for market purposes. Extra Early Ifiilan. — (See figure 99.) This is an early strap-leaved variety, coming into use a week or ten days before any of the ordinary early sorts. The bulbs are white, with a purple top, round and solid ; flesh pure white, sweet and crisp. Ked-Top Strap-Leaf. — A rapid grower and of mild flavor. The most popular variety for early use, grown either for the table or for stock. Purplc-Top White Globe.— (See figure 100.) A very heavy cropping, early variety, of globe shape. It has a Fig. 100.— PDRPLE-TOP WHITE GLOBE ITUSIP. very handsome looking bulb, and is rapidly taking the lead over other varieties for market garden purposes. Amber Globe. — In great favor in the South. Attains a large size, flesh solid and sweet, hardy, and a good keeper. Golden Bali. — This has no superior for table use, being of excellent flavor, globe-shaped, and of a beautiful yel- low color. It is a very rapid grower. Snowball. —A round, pure white variety, of superior flavor ; excellent for market. VEGETABLES — TURNIP. 30? Snow-White. — Olive-shaped, very hardy, quality the best. Seven-Topi — This is the variety so largely grown in the Southern States for Turnip salad or greens. TURNIP.— RuTA Baga or Swedish. Improved American (Purple-Top). — (See figure 101.) This is the leading variety ; very hardy and productive ; Fig. 101.— IMl'KOVEU AMEKIOAN PU.i4iLil-T01" BUTA BAGA. flesh yellow, solid, sweet, and fine flavored; equally good for stock or table use ; the principal variety raised by market gardeners on Long Island, and the best of all yellow Turnips. In our trial grounds we find American-grown seed, of this variety, to yield better- shaped and cleaner Turnips than does imported seed. 308 GAEDENING POE PEOFIT. Shamrock. — One of the finest purple-top varieties in cultivation ; forms a handsome bulb, with small top and very few leaves ; an excellent keeper and good for stock or table use. Lar!?e White French. — A superior variety for table or stock ; flesh firm, white and solid ; attains a large size, and has a very rich and sweet flavor ; a very popular variety. THYME, SAGE, SUMMER SAVORY, AND MAR- JORAM. I believe even yet the cultivation of Sweet Herb-;, for m-irket purposes, is but little known in this country, ex- cept in the vegetable gardens in the vicinity of New York ; there it is practised to an extent of perhaps 100 to 150 acres, a fair average profit of whicli would be about 8''-30 per acre. Like the croj^s of Celery, Spinach, or Horseradish, they are grown only as second crops, that is, they are planted in July, after an early crop of Peas, Cabbages, Beets, or Onions has been sold off. The kinds are Thyme, Sage, Summer Savory, and Sweet ^Marjoram, the former two being grown in the ratio of ten acres to one of the others. The seed is sown in rows in April in rich mellow soil, carefully kei)t clean from weeds until the plants are fit to set out, which may be done any time that the ground is ready from middle of June until end of July. As the plants are usually small and delicate, it is necessary that the ground be well fined down by harrowing with the disc harrow, or raking before planting. The distance apart, for all the kinds, is abont the same, namely, twelve inches between the rows, and eight or ten inches be- tween the plants ; the lines are marked out by the "marker." This is the '■'marker" used for many other purposes ; in lining out the rows for Early Cab- SWEET HERBS — THYME — SAGE, ETC. 309 bages, for instance, every alternate line is planted^ thus leaving them two feet apart, their proper dis- tance. (See Implements.) In eight or ten days after the herb crop has been planted, the ground is "hoed" lightly over by a steel rake, which disturbs the sur- face sufficiently to destroy the crop of weeds that are just beginning to germinate ; it is done in one-third of the time that it could be done by a hoe, and answers the pui'pose quite as well, as deep hoeing at this early stage of planting is pertedtly useless. In ten or twelve days more, the same operation is repeated with the steel rake, which usually eSectually destroys all weeds, the seeds of which are near enough to the surface to germinate. We use the steel rake in lieu of a hoe on all our crops, im- mediately after planting, foi', as before said, deep hoeing on plants of any kind when newly planted, is quite un- necessary ,and by the steady application of the rake weeds are easily kept down, and it is great economy of labor never to alloiv them to start. By the middle of September the herb crop usually covers the ground com- pletely, looking like a field of clover. Allow this mass to grow for another month as it is, and you would not increase the weight of leaves ; the plants would grow taller, keeping the green and marketable leaves on the top, but only yellow and withered ones and plenty of woody stems below. But by cutting out every alternate row (each plant making about two bunches), the remain- ing rows are allowed light and air, and in three or four weeks will have spread so as again to cover up the entire surface, from which half the crop has already 'been gathered. We treat Sage in all respects the same as Thyme ; and I have seen both these herbs on rich soil not only meet when left two feet apart/but when every other row at two feet apart was cut out, almost meet again at four feet apart. By this method of cutting out every other row, fully a 310 QAKDENINTG FOR PROFIT. double crop is taken, and of a quality superior to what it would be were it allowed to grow without being thus thinned out. About thirty years ago I was lucky enough to discoYer the importance of this plan of doubling our crops of herbs, and as I had not, in those days, begun to tell " what I know about gardening," I kept my own counsel for some years before my neighbors discovered the plan. Herbs are regarded as a safe crop for the mar- ket gardener ; they are less perishable than anything else grown, for, if there be any interruption to their sale in a green state, they can, if necessary, be dried and boxed up and sold in the dry state, months after. The price now is from $6 to 810 per 1,000 bunches, and we always pre- fer to dry them rather than sell lower than $6 per 1,000, experience tolling us that the market will usually so reg- ulate itself as to handsomely pay for holding back the sale. The cost of getting the crop i-aised and marketed will average about $150 per acre, o.ne-half of the expense being in tying it in bunches. But with many of our in- dustrious Gorman gardeners it does not cost half that, as the tying up is usually done by their wives and children. There are but few varieties among Herbs, but of Thyme there are several, and it is very important to plant only what is known as the " spreading variety ; " an upright sort, sometimes sold, is worthless as a market crop. The Sage, known as the Broad-leaved, is the best. I am often asked, by correspondents at a distance, in relation to the best way of selling herbs in K"ew York City. I ivill here say, that there is no certain sale that I know of, unless they are in a green state. The season for selling is October, November and December ; and if shipped in open crates, so arranged by divisions of slats that not more than eight or nine inches of a layer would be together, they could be shipped at that cool season to distances requiring fifty or sixty hours in the transit. The average receipts per acre is now about |i400. WHEN TO SOW ISr THE SOUTH. 311 CHAPTER XVI. WHEN TO SOW AND PLANT IN THE SOUTHERN STATES. We have hundreds of letters each season making in- quh-ies on this subject. Prom the great •variation in lat- itude, soils, shelter, etc., it is impossible to give accurate information on the subject, for the date . that would answer for Charleston, South Carolina, or Jackson- ville, Pla., would not do for Norfolk, Va., or Knoxville, Tenn., but at the risk, in some few cases, of repeating in- structions already given, I will endeavor to approximate as nearly as possible to the dates at which vegetables should be sown and planted in the Southern States. The instructions for culture vary but little from what is practised at the North, so the reader is referred to each article under its proper head for cultural instructions. Asparagus. — Whether raised from seed or from plants, had better be started in the fall months,, varying, accord- ing to latitude, from the 1st of October to the 1st of December, earlier, as at Norfolk, Virginia, to the latest date in South Carolina, Florida, Louisiana, and Texas. The plant is hardy, and consequently will have made roots enough to sustain itself through the cool season, if sown at these dates, and be ready for vigorous growth as soon as vegetation starts in spring. Beans; Bush or Pole, — Are of tropical origin, and consequently belong to what are classed as "tender" vegetables, and when wanted /or early crop, as nearly all Southern vegetables are, should not be sown until all danger from chilly weather is past — not before the night temperature will average fifty-five degrees. Perhaps one of the best rules is to delay sowing or planting in the open ground until such date as corn can be safely planted. 312 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. BeetSi — Are of intermediate hardiness ; not sufficiently hardy to be sown and wintered over like Asparagus or Spinach, yet hardy enough to be sown three or four weeks earlier than Beans or Corn. For example, if the Corn-planting season is March in extreme Southern points. Beets may be sown at the same place in February. Cabbage. — Is perhaps the most important of all South- ern crops raised for the Northern market, and much — very much — of the success of the crop depends upon ivhen sown and the quality of seed used. Taking the latitude of Charleston, South Carolina, or Savannah, Georgia, as a basis, the usual time of sowing there, in the open ground, is from October 5th to 15th, but even at the later date, the favorite variety, " Early Summer," may run to seed if the season is mild ; so we strongly advise to sow, at leasi a portion of the crop, ten days later — say from October 20th to 30th — and so shape the seed-beds that they can be covered up by " sashes " made of muslin, or the protecting cloth already alluded to, on cold nights — exposing them, of course, to the light, on warm, bright days. Cauliflower. — Same as for Cabbage. Celery. — Being a winter vegetable, is never shipped from South to North, as it can be grown much cheaper North ; but there is a growing local demand for Celery at many Southern points. The seed, to produce plants, cannot safely be sown South in the spring for Celery- growing, as in most instances, from the longer season, it would run to seed, even if it could be carried through the hot weather. My advice would be to sow at different periods, say from the middle of June to the middle of August, using the protecting cloth ' ' sashes " already described, during the hot sunshine, say from 9 a. ii. to 4 p., M., watering them, when dry, in the afternoon after taking off the sashes. As several thousand Celery plants WHEN TO SOW AT THE SOUTH. 313 can be grown under a three by six feet sash, it will repay the labor in such places as this, where protection against the sun is a necessity. CoIlardSi — Require to be sown about the same date as Spinach, which see. Corn. — Sweet Corn is a valuable crop in some sections South, to be sold in our ISTorthera markets. It is one of the most tender plants. Thousands of acres are sacri- ficed every season by impatient cultivators, who, deluded by a few warm days in spring, plant too early. No date can be given with safety, only, as a rule, one will be safer to be a little behind his neighbor than before him. If the usual date is the 1st of the mouth, you will be certain to catch up if you wait until the 4th or 5th, as it is a crop easily checked even by a slight chill. It may be forwarded six or eight days by sow- ing in pieces of sod under sashes, as recommended for Cucumbers. Cucumbers. — Another "tender" plant, requiring the same conditions for vigorous growth as Sweet Corn. It may be sown on pieces of inverted sod, cut in sections of three or four inches ; these, if placed in frames and cov- ered with the protecting cloth, or better still for this purpose, glass sashes, may be started two weeks sooner than they can be sown outside. In about a month after sowing (if not begun before the temperature would aver- age fifty-five degrees at night), they will have grown two or three inches and have matted the pieces of sod full of roots ; the temperature now sliould be ten degrees higher, and they may then be set in the open field and will give a crop at least a week earlier, which will well repay the extra labor. Kgg Plant. — The same rules may be applied to this, remembering, however, that this is an extra "tender" plant, and at least five degrees higher will be necessary. 314 OARUEXIIfCT FOE PKOFIT. Greens, German or Sprouts. — Same as Spinach, which see. Lettuce.^— The same rules as for Cabbage and Cauli- flower will apply nearly as well to Lettuces. Melon, Musk and Water.— Same as for Cucumbers. Okra, or Gumbo. — Another " tender" vegetable ; date of sowing the same as for Beans. Onion. — One of the hardiest of vegetables, and, whether grown from seeds or from sets for early crop, should be sown in the fall, about the dates advised for Asparagus, though if wanted for a later spring crop, or for drying, may be sown in spring, at the date advised for Beets. Peas. — Again taking the latitude of South Carolina or Southern Georgia as a basis, the Marrowfat varieties of Peas may be begun to be sown about the end of Novem- ber, following with the early kinds for succession crops every week or ten days to January 1st. Potato. — {Solanum tuberosum.) We give the botanical name to distinguish it from the Sweet Potato ; though indigenous to high Southern latitudes, it is impatient of heat, and should be planted as early in the various South- ern States as the ground is in condition to work ; in parts of Florida as early as January 1st, while February 1st will be proper at Charleston or Savannah, and nearly a month later in Southern Virginia. Potato, Sweet. — {Iponma batatas.) This is mainly a crop of the Southern States. The roots are usually started in Florida or South Carolina about February 1st, in cold frames covered with glass, or in warm borders in the open air. The "sets" or "draws" will usually be large enough to be set out the first week in March in Florida or first of April in South Carolina, and corres- pondingly later as we move northward. Radish. — Same dates as for beets. WHEN TO SOW AT THE SOUTH. 315 Rhubarbi — Same date as for Asparagus. Turnips. — For fall sowing, the Sweet or Strap-leayed kinds of Turnip should be sown from September to Octo- ber, while the Kuta Bagas, requiring a longer time to mature, should be sown a month earlier. For "spring sowing," January to February for the extreme Southern States. Spinach. — A hardy vegetable, and a valuable crop in many sections of the South. May be sown from Septem- ber to October at Norfolk, Virginia, and from November to December at Charleston or Savannah ; but as it is slow to germinate in dry weather, see what is said in relation to it at page 101, under the head of the "Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting." At the extreme South Spinach is not much grown, as it does better in such latitudes as Virginia or Delaware. Squash. — Same as for Cucumber. Tomato. — A most important vegetable grown at the South for the Northern markets. It is usually set out by first raising the plants under glass, often in hot-beds, when great earliness is desired. The reader is referred to " Construction of Hot-beds," which will be necessary in most sections for the first sowing for the seedling plants. An ordinary three by six feet sash will raise from 1,500 to 3,000 seedling plants. These if sown, say, February 1st, will be large enough to transplant at three or four inches apart, again under the protection of sashes or of " sashes " of the protecting cloth, until fit to set out in the open field. As it is also a most tender plant, easily hurt by chill, the same rules apply here as for Cucumbers. 31G GARDENING FOIt PROFIT. CHAPTER XVII. PACKING OF VEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING. This is a matter for which it is not very easy to give directions, as the distance, season, and articles to bo packed will greatly determine the manner in which it is to be done ; but a few general directions may assist the inexperienced. The mode of packing during spring and summer is almost entirely the reverse of that practised during autumn or winter, for the reason that, when the temper- ature is high, i^rovision must be made in the package for tlie admission of air to prevent the articles from heating ; while in cold weather, when there is but little danger from heating, but more to be apprehended from frost, close packages must be used accordingly. As early vegetables are always shipped fi-om a warm climate to a colder one, at a season which, of course, must be warm to mature them, open work baskets or slatted boxes must be used. If barrels are used, care must be taken that openings be made plentifully in the sides, so that air may be admitted. For distances requir- ing a delay of more than forty-eight hours in the transit, for most articles, barrels are too large ; boxes or baskets, one-third the capacity of a flour barrel (one bushel), being safer. The articles shipped in this manner from Southern ports to Northern markets, are : Asparagus, Beans, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Jlelons, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, and other summer crops. Bulky articles, such as Cabbages, Beets, Sweet Corn, Water Melons, Turnips, are often shipped loose on the decks of steamers, sloops, etc. ; but even then care must be taken that the heaps are not too large, else they may be injured by heat- ing. The judgment of the shipper must be exercised in respect to the article to be shipped. Articles that lie PEESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER. 317 close will require to be shipped in smaller packages than those that lie so loosely that the air can pass among them ; for example, Melons may be safely packed in a barrel, while if Tomatoes were so packed, they would be utterly destroyed. The winter or fall shipping of vegetables is the reverse of the summer, for then we send from the North to the South, our colder and damper atmosphere being more congenial to the growth of late crops. Close packages are now used, but still not too large ; barrels being best suited to such articles as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Onions, Parsnips, Potatoes, or Turnips, while Cabbages and Cauliflowers may be shipped in crates or in bulk. CHAPTER XVIII. PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER. Our manner of preserving vegetable roots in winter is, I think, peculiar to this district, and is very simple and efEective. After taking up such crops as Beets, Carrots, Horse- radish, Parsnips, Turnips, Potatoes, etc., in fall, they are put in temporary oblong heaps, on the surface of the ground on which they have been growing, and covered up with five or six inches of soil, which will keep off such slight frosts as are likely to occur, until time can be spared to store them in permanent winter quarters ; this is done in this section, usually, during the first part of December, in the following manner : A piece of ground as dry as possible is chosen ; if not naturally dry, provision must le made to carry off the water, lower than the lottom of the pit. The pit is dng out from three to four feet deep, about six feet wide, and of the length required ; the roots 318 GARUENING FOR PROFIT. are then packed in, in sections of about two feet wide across the pit, and only to the height of the ground level. Between the sections, a space of half a foot is left, which is filled up with the soil level to the top ; this leaves the pit filled up in sections of two feet long, with roots, and half a foot of soil, and so on, until the whole is finished. The advantage of this plan is, that it is merely a series of small pits, holding from three to five barrels of roots, which can be taken out for market without exposing the next section, as it is closed off by the six inches of soil between. Also, we find that roots of all kinds keep more safely when in small bulk than when large numbers are thrown into one pit together. In covering, the top is rounded so as to throw ofE the water, with a layer of from eighteen inches to two feet of soil. This way of preserving roots, with perhaps the exception of Potatoes, is much preferable to keeping them in a cellar or root-house, as they not only keep fresher, retaining more of their natural flavor and color, but far fewer of them are lost by decay than when exposed to the air and varying temperature of a cellar. Unmatured heads of Cauliflower, or Broccoli, however, are best matured in a light cellar or cold frame, by being planted in close together ; in this way, good heads may be had to January. For the keeping of Cab- bages, Celery, and Onions, see instructions in the chapter describing their culture. Mr. William Crozicr, of North- port, L. I., who is co-author with me in the work "How the Farm Pays," has adopted this method of keeping potatoes with great success. It is the method almost exclusively in use in England and Scotland. INSKCTS. 319 CHAPTER XIX. INSECTS. We have but little trouble with insects in our highly cultivated grounds ; what with continued moving of the soil by plowing and harrowing every foot, from three to four times each season, incessant hoeing, and the digging up of the crops, we give these pests but little chance for a foot-hold. We are, however, occasionally troubled with Aphides, the '* Green-fly," in our forcing-houses of Let- tuce. Another kind of aphis, closely allied to the green, assumes a bluish color when it attacks the Cabbage crop, either in frames or outside. A complete remedy for either pest, in its early stages, is tobacco stems steeped in water to give it about the color of strong tea, and ap- plied with a syringe or watering-pot, or tobacco dust, or, in fact, tobacco in any form that it can be applied. "Jumping Jack," or the Turnip-fly, occasions some trouble with late sowings of Cabbages, Turnips, and Eadishcs, but we find an excellent preventive in dust- ing lime over the beds as soon as the seeds begin to germinate. It is of the utmost importance to nse preven- tives in the case of insects, for if once they get a lodg- ment, it is almost useless to attempt their destruction. The sti'iped Cucumber-bug, which, with us, attacks late sowings only, we have found to yield readily to a few ap- plications of bone dust, which serves the double purpose of disturbing the insect and encouraging the growth of the crop. But our most formidable enemy of the insect tribe is that which attacks the roots of the Cabbage fam- ily, causing the descructive disease known as the "club- root." There is a general misconception of the cause of this disease ; happily our peculiar location here gives me the means, I believe, of thoroughly disproving some 320 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. of these absurd dogmas, that club-root is caused by " hog manure," " heavy soil," "light soil," etc. I do not doubt that it has appeared thousands of times under just such conditions ; yet, within three miles from the City Hall of New York, I can show to-day, on the classic shores of Communipaw, scores of acres that have been just so manured, both light soils and heavy soils, that have grown cabbages for twenty consecutive years, while the first appearance of club-root is yet to be seen. On the other hand, I can show, on soils not more than a mile distant from those on the Communipaw shore, where the ground is cultivated in the very best possible manner, and where every variety of manure has been tried, and yet it is iraposssble to get a crop of Cauliflower or Cab- bage clear from club-root for two years in succession. Now, the reason of the immunity from the pest on the one variety of soil and not on the other, does not, to us, admit of the slightest particle of doubt. On the shore side, and for nearly a mile inland, there are regular deposits of oyster shell, mixed with the land almost as we find pebbles in a gravelly soil ; our theory is, that the in- sect which occasions the club-root cannot exist in con- tact with the lime, which, of course, is present in large amount in a soil containing such abundance of oyster shell. Eeasoning from this, we have endeavored to bring up soils deficient in shell, by heavy dressings of lime ; this answered, however, only temporarily, and we found it too expensive to continue it. The increasing demand for manures in the vicinity of New York has rendered them of late years scarce and high in price, so that we were necessitated to begin the use of guano and other concentrated manures, and as this was rather new with us in our market gardens, we have had the pleasure of some very interesting experiments. In my grounds at Jersey City, where we have never been able to get two crops of Cabbages successively without having them in- INSECTS. 321 jured by club-root, my foreman suggested to me to ex- periment with a bed of about half an acre, to be planted with early Wakefield Cabbage. One-half of this he pro- posed to manure at the rate of seventy-five tons per acre with stable manure, the other half with fiour of bone, at the rate of 3,000 pounds per acre ; this was accordingly done in the usual way, by sowing the bone dust on the ground after plowing, and then thoroughly harrowing in. During the month of May, we could see no percept- ible difference in the beds ; but just as soon as our first hot days in June came, down wilted the portion that had been dressed with stable manure, showing a well-defined line the whole length of the bed, and, on pulling up the plants, we found that our enemy was at work, while in that portion that had been dressed by the bone dust, hardly a wilted plant could be seen, but, on the contrary, the crop had most unusual vigor. This experiment has been to me one of the most satisfactory I ever tried ; it still further proves that this destructive insect cannot exist, to atl injurious extent, in a soil impregnated with lime, and also proves that we have a most effective remedy in this valuable and portable manure. The ex- periment was, however, to me rather a costly one ; onr past experience told us that there was no reason to expect that the portion on which the stable manure was used would not be attacked by club-root, as it had borne a crop of Cabbage the previous year, and nearly twenty years' working of that soil had shown that this crop could never be grown two years successively ; but experi- ments to be satisfactory must be done on a scale of some magnitude, and although I lost some $300 by the differ- ence in the crop, I believe it to have been a profitable investment. I have incidentally stated that the Cabbage crop, treated in the usual manner, can only be grown every alternate year, the reason of which we infer to be that 332 GARDENING FOR PItOFIT. the insect is harmless to the plant when in tlie perfect state the first season, but that it is attracted by the plant, deposits its eggs in the soil, and that in the larvai con- dition, in which it appears the second year, it attacks the root. Whether this crude theory be correct or not, I will not presume to say, but if not, how can we ac- count for the fact of our being able to grow this plant free from its ravages every alternate yeai', while if we attempt to do so successively without the use of lime or bone dust, it is certain to be attacked ? All autliorities on gardening to which I have had access seem to be unaware of the fact that club-root is never seen in soils impregnated with shells. This viiriety of soil is not common. I have never seen it anywhere ex- cept here, and, as I have said, this peculiarity of location, most fortunately, gives a certain clue to the facts, and directly points out tlie remedy, wliich, I think, we have found to be in the copious use of bone dust as manure. Another enemy of the Cabbage plant, and one that is sometimes even more destructive than the club-root, is the Cabbage Caterpillar. This insect is comparatively a new-comer, having been imported from Europe byway of Canada. It is produced by the small white butterfly that is seen hovering over the Cabbage patches in spring. It attacks the leaves of the plant, and is such a voracious feeder that it will quickly destroy a whole plantation. I am frequently applied to for a remedy for this jiest and others attacking Cabbages ; the best I know of are given in the chapters on "Cabbage Culture." Nothing is more difficult and unsatisfactory than the attempt to defeat the ravages of insects in the open field, and I have yet to know of any being continuously successful, unless perhaps, the application of Pans Green for the dcstmctiou of the Potato Bug. In the long-cultivated gardens of Xow Jersey and Long Island we do not suffer much from the ravages of either of the above pests. The soil is so re- INSECTS. 323 peatedly turned over and disturbed that I presume the maggot is not left long enough at rest to develop itself in sufficient numbers to produce any great injury ; and the luxurious growth resulting from the continued and heavy manuring, seems to be less inviting to the butteriiy to deposit her eggs than the feebler growth of less fertile soils. Or, it may be that tlie increase of English sparrows is helping us in both these cases, by destroying the fly that produces the maggot, or the small white butterfly that produces the caterpillar, or it may be that they feed on the caterpillar itself, as I know they do upon the rose-slug. At all events, the farmer will gain by en- couraging and caring for the sparrovirs. A few years ago the street trees of New York, Brooklyn and Jersey City were festoojied by myriads of the "measuring worm ; " now, since the advent of the sparrows, they are scarcely ever seen. The sparrows will live in any section of the country.if properly housed and fed in winter, and if such care were general we should hear fewer complaints of insect ravages. True, the birds might exact wages for their services, in requiring a little grain, but of the two evils, better submit to that done by the birds than by the insects. I will relate an experiment to destroy the Cabbage Caterpillar, which occurred during this month in raj im- mediate neighborhood. One of my neighbors found that the pest was attacking his Cabbages ; he came to me and asked what I thought of his using slaked lime to dust over them. I told him I had but little faith in it. But he was resolved to try it, and put it on at the rate of four or five barrels to the acre, carefully dusting it on each plant, This was about the 1st of June. On the 17th he came to me in triumph, saying that the remedy had been effectual, and that there was hardly a caterpillar to be seen. Unfortunately for the experiment, but fortu- nately for truth, another neighbor, whose Cabbage patch 334 GAKDENING FOK PROFIT. had been attacked at the same time, but had received no lime, was also entirely clear of the caterpillar ! The cure was ti'ciceable to another cause. We had had a deluging rain that swept oS the caterpillars, and stai'ted the Cab- bages into luxuriant growth at the same time. Had the insect come m the legions it does in some places, had there been no rain, and had the dry, hot weather con- tinued, the lime dust would probably have failed. Last summer, I had with great care nursed along in my greenhouses, for many weeks, a collection of rare varieties of German Stock Gillyflowers, a plant belonging to the same natural order (Gruciferse), as the Cabbage. Upwards of two thousand plants were set out in June, on rather poor soil ; by the middle of July they had made splendid plants, one foot across, and just as they were bursting into bloom we observed the little white butterfly moving amongst them, and knew what might be expected to follow. Lime dust, solutions of carbolic soap, whale oil soap, and sundry other things were used, all to no effect, and by middle of August, the plants were literally eaten up by the caterpillar. There is nothing more unpleasant than to tell any one suffenng under a calamity that there is no effective remedy : but it is in- finitely better to do so than to delude them with a false one. I have been a worker of the soil since my boyhood, and every year's experience convinces me of the alinost helplessness of remedies against insects or other blight- ing plagues that attack vegetation in the open field. It is true that the amateur gardener may save his dozen or two of Cabbages or Eoses by daily picking off or destroy- ing the insects; but when it comes to broad acres, I much doubt if ever any remedy will be found to be prac- ticable, unless in rare instances, such as Pans Green, as as an antidote against the Potato Bug. We have one con- solation, m knowing that these pests are only periodical, and never continue so as to permanently destroy. CULTUBE OF SMALL FllUITS. 3-^5 CHAPTBE XX, . CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. Complaiut has been made that in the former editions of this work, no allusion was made to the culture of small fruits, which, in many sections, is as much a matter of interest to the market gardener as is the culture of vege- tables, as, in many places the two have to be combined so as to supply the local demand. The most important of all the small fruits is THE STKAWBEERT. The same general rules for soils, drainage, manuring, etc., are generally applicable for Strawberry or other small fruit culture as for vegetable crops. Our method of obtaining a full crop of Strawberries by ''pot layering,'' which we here give in detail, we have practised for the past fifteen years with unvarying success, and if we were growing Strawberries for market, no matter on how large a scale, we would follow no other method. To obtain a crop in June from the plants that were planted out the previous August, or in ten months from date of planting, the plants must be such as are layered in pots, and the .sooner they are planted out after the 15th of July the better, although, if not then convenient, they will pro- duce a crop the next season, even if planted as late as the middle of September ; but the. sooner they are planted, the larger will be the crop. They may be set from pot layers either in beds of four rows each, twelve inches apart, and twelve inches between the plants, leaving two feet between the beds for a pathway ; or be set out in rows two feet apart, the plants in the rows twelve inches apart ; and if the plants are properly set out (care being taken to firm the soil around the plants, which is best done by pressing the soil against each plant with the foot), not 320 GARDENING FOR PllOFIT. one in a thousand of Strawberry plants that have been struck in pots, will fail to grow. "For the first three or four weeks after planting, nothing need be done except to hoe the beds, so that all weeds are kept down. Be careful to do this once m every ten days ; for if the weeds once get a start it will treble the labor of keeping the ground clean. In about a month after planting they will begin to throw out runners, all of which must be pinched or cut off as they appear, so that by the end of the growing season (1st of November), each plant will have formed a complete bush one foot or more in diame- ter, having the necessary matured ''crowns" for next June's fruit. By the middle of December, the entire beds of Strawberry plants should be covered up with salt meadow hay (straw, leaves or anything similar will do as well), to the depth of two or three inches, entirely cover- ing up the plants and soil, so that nothing is seen but the hay. By April, the plants so protected will show in- dications of growth, when the hay over each plant is pushed a little aside, to assist it in getting through the covering, so that by May, the fully developed plant shows on the clean surface of the hay. This "mulching," as it is called, is indispensable to the best culture, as it pro- tects the plants from cold in winter, keeps the fruit clean, keeps the roots cool by shading them from the hot sun in June, and, at the same time, saves nearly all further labor after being once put on, as few weeds can push through it. By this method, we prefer to plant new beds every year, though, if desired, the beds once planted may be fruited for two or three years, as by the old plans ; but the fruit the first season, will always be the largest in size, if not greatest in quantity. Another advantage of this system is that, where the space is limited, there is quite time enough to get a crop of Potatoes, Peas, Beans, Lettuce, Radishes, or, in fact, any summer crop, o£E of the ground first, before planting the Strawberries, thus taking CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 327 two crops from tlie ground in one year, if desired, and there is also plenty of time to crop the ground with Cab- bage, Cauliflower, Celery, or other fall crop, after the crop of Strawberries has been gathered. The plan of getting the pot layers of Strawberries is very simple. Just as soon as the fruit is gathered, if the beds are well forked up between the rows, the runners, or young plants, will begin to grow, and in two weeks will be fit to layer in pots. The pots (which are about two inches in diam- eter), are filled with the soil in which the Strawberries are gTowing, and "plunged" or sunk to the level of the surface ; the Strawberry layer is then laid on the pot at its joint, being held in place with a small stone. The stone not only serves to keep the plant in its place, so that its roots will strike into the pot, but it also serves to mark where each pot is ; for, being sunk to the level of the surface, rains wash the soil around the pots, so that they could not well be seen unless marked by the stone. In ten or twelve days after the Strawberry layers have been put down, the pots will be filled with roots. They are then cut from the parent plant, placed closely together, and shaded and watered for a few days before being planted out. Strawberries for field culture are usually planted from the ordinary layers, either in August and September in the fall, or in March, April or May in the spring. They are usually planted in rows, two to three feet apart, and nine to twelve inches between the plants. In planting, every plant should be well firmed, or great loss is almost certain to ensue, as the Strawberry is a plant always dif- ficult to transplant. They are usually worked by a horse cultivator, and generally two or three crops are taken before the beds are plowed under ; but the first crop given (which is in the second year after planting), is always the best ; that is, the Strawberry beds set out in March, April, or May will give the best crop in June of 388 GARDENING FOB PROFIT. the next year. The same care must be taken as in plant- ing the pot layers ; the ground must be kept clear of weeds, and the runners pinched or cut o£E to make fruit- ing crowns. By the usual field method of culture, it will be seen that there is a loss of one season in about three ; for in the year of planting of course no fruit is produced. Our own practice is to set aside enough to produce early plants, so that pot layers can be obtained to set out by the 15th of Julj; ; thus a full crop of the finest fruit is had every season, and with less cost, we think ; for the only labor, after planting, is to keep the ground clean and pinch off the runners, from July to October, with the certainty of getting a full crop next June, or in less than a year from the time of planting, while by planting by ordinary layers, if set out in Au- gust, we have three months of fall culture, and six or seven months of the next summer's culture, before a crop is produced. Again, if the crop is continued to fruit the second or third year, every one who has had expe- rience with the nature of the plant knows that the labor of keeping the plants free from weeds is enormous ; while by the pot layering method of taking a fresh crop each year, much of such labor is dispensed with. There are hardly two sections of the country, 100 miles apart, where the same varieties of Strawberries are grown. "We can only offer those grown in the vicinity of New York as our standard. The Henderson.— (See figure 103.) This new Strawberry originated with Mr. George Seymour, South Norwalk, Oonn., in 1883, who named it in honor of the author of this work. It is doubtful if there is another Strawberry in cultivation having such a combination of good qualities as the " Henderson." The fruit is of the largest size, rich, glossy crimson in color, looking as if varnished, early and exceedingly productive, but its excelling merit is its exquisite flavor and aroma. Whether for family or mar- CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 339 ket use, the " Henderson " is almosl certain to become a standard sort, and its strong and healthy growth will A^ \}'^ \ 1 U I ■A 1 ^jLi* mr Fig. 103. — THE HENDERSON STEAWBEBET. adapt it to almost every soil. It is a perfect-flowered Tariety, and, therefore, never fails to set its fruit. Crimson Cluster.— (See figure 103.) On the 10th of June, 1886, I examined this Strawberry on the grounds of the raiser, Mr. E. W. Durand, and found 3,000 plants that had been planted on the 15th of August, 1885, which, in less than ten months from the date of planting, were producing a crop that would average fully a quart to each plant ; 3,000 quarts from the 3,000 plants, or at the rate of over 20,000 quarts per acre. The crop was so immense, and the size of the berries so large, that the pickers who were paid two cents per quart, averaged twenty-five quarts per hour, or $5.00 per day — a fact beyond question, and which could be attested by a dozen affidavits. At . the first picking, every yard of row 330 OARDEXING TOR PROFIT. yielded a quart of fruit. When to this e.\traordinary production we add the further facts, that this Strawberry is of the richest crimson color, borne in immense clusters (hence the name), and that it is one of the earliest as well as tlie latest — as its great vigor prolongs its season of fruiting — combined with its excellent quality, there is every reason to think that it is bound to be the vLOii valuable Strawberry ever raised by Mr. Durand. On the 10th of July, one month after my first exami- nation, seventy quarts of splendid fruit were gathered Fig. 103.— CKIMSON CLUSTER BTRAWBEKRT. from the 3,000 plants above referred to, and furthermore, to show it still kept on fruiting, Mr. Durand sent me a large cluster of berries in all stages of development on the 30th of July ; something entirely unknown in a Strawberry that had already given an immense early crop. Mr. Durand says that the "Crimson Cluster" is so completely a pistillate variety that the stamens can hardly be seen, yet he says it may be planted five miles away from any other Strawberi-y and yet never fail to produce enormous crops. He further says tha.t he has grown it in frames under glass in early spring, where it CDLTUKE OF SMALL FKUITS. 331 could not possibly be impregnated with any other variety, with the same results — an abundant crop. He thinks that this fact, to a great extent, upsets tlie very prevalent notion that perfect stamens and pistils on the same plant are necessary to produce a crop of fruit. Without having personally given the matter much atten- tion, I have long believed, from general observation, that there was more importance given to the necessity for "perfect flowers," as they are called, in strawberries than results warranted. Fig. 104.— JEESET QUEEN STBAWBEEEY. Jersey Queen. — (See figure 104.) This variety was sold for the first time in the fall of 1881, and is, perhaps, one of the very best late Strawberries thus far introduced. The size is immense, often measuring six inches in cir- cumference. Shape, roundish conical ; color, a beautiful scarlet crimson ; perfectly solid, and of excellent flavor. It is an enormous bearer, many plants averaging a quart of first quality fruit. It is one of the latest Strawberries, 333 GAKDENING FOB PROFIT. the crop in this vicinity being in perfection about the 25th of June, while the average crop of Strawberries is at its best by the 15th of June. Bidwelli — One of the earliest, most abundantly pro- ductive, of medium size, excellent flavor, and light scar- let in color. Plants set out from pot layers on August 5th, 1880, had fruit ripe June 5th, 1881, ten months from date of planting. The plants average one quart of fruit each. JFlg. 105.— SBARPLESS STEAWBEERY, SharpIcsSi — (See figure 105.) With the exception of Jersey. Queen and "Crimson Cluster," the largest and one of the heaviest berries of this collection. It is of fine flavor, a good bearer, and has now become a standard sort. Downing. — One of the best of the older sorts. It com- CULTUKE OF SMALL TBUITS. 333 bines all the best qualities, being large, early, rich in color and flavor, and abundantly productive. Parryi — One of the earliest large berries, of great beauty, excellent quality, prolific, and one of the very hardiest and strongest growers. Fig. 106. — THE JEWELL STHAWBEEKT. Jewell. — (See figure 106.) Anew variety, originated in 1880 ; is of the largest size, perfect form, color bright red changing to crimson, of medium earliness ; enormous cropj)er, sometimes reaching 400 bushels per acre. The lioffman. — This is now the most popular berry for the Southern States. It is of medium size, average flavor, but it is a most abundant bearer and strong grower, and, above all, has the requisite solidity or firmness essential for distant carriage. Crescent and Wilson are yet popular varieties, the former being of a light, the other a dark, crimson. Both are inferior in size and quality to any of the large varie- ties above described, but they are both early, strong 334 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. growing, doing well on nearly all soils, and are often used as early market sorts where the market is not crit- ical as to quality. Strawberries rarely sell at less than an average of $8 per 100 quarts, and when retailed to the consumer, average one-third more. As about 20,000 plants are grown on an acre, and an average crop under good cul- ture will give at least 5,000 quarts per acre, the crop, when sold even at lowest rates, is a fairly profitable one. But it is a crop that must be promptly attended to in hoeing and weeding. It never can be made profitable under slipshod culture, for, from the nature of the plant, it cannot defend itself against weeds, and if neglected will quickly get overwhelmed and destroyed. Thousands of acres of Strawberries are planted annually, which, from the want of prompt work at the proper time, are allowed to be destroyed by weeds. At a small cost in labor, at the proper time, such crops might have paid a handsome profit. BLACKBERRIES. Although Blackberries are found in a wild state in al- most all sections of the country, yet the varieties are so much inferior to the cultivated kinds, that it is poor economy to depend on them for a supply, no matter how abundant they may be. Cultivated Blackberries comprise varieties which are not only double the size of the wild kinds, but have the advantage of ripening in succession throughout the season, from the middle of July until the last of September. The distance apart to plant Blackberries may be, if in rows, five feet, with the plants two feet apart in the rows ; or, if in separate hills, they may be set five feet apart each way. In either case they should be supported by strong stakes driven into the ground, liaving a height of from four to five feet, CULTUHE OF SMALL FKCITS. 335 to which the canes or shoots should be tied. They may be set either in the fall or in the spring. If in the fall, a covering of four or five inches of rotted manure, leaves or soil (if covered with soil it is best to cut down the plants to four or five inches and cover up the whole), should be spread over the roots, to prevent them from being frozen too much. The plants of Blackberries set out either in fall or spring will not give fruit the first season, but, if a good growth has been made, they will give a full crop the next year. Fig. 107.— WILSON BLAOKBEIiRT. Fig. 108. — KITTATINNT BLAOKBEERT. That is, if planted, for instance, about the middle of April, 1886 (or the previous fall), by the middle of July in 1887, a full crop should be obtained. After the fruit lias been picked the old canes or shoots should be cut out to give the new ones a chance to grow, about four or five of which only should be left. As the new shoots are very vigorous, when they reach a height of four feet or at most five feet, they should be checked by pinching off the tops. This will cause an abundance of side shoots to start, which are to be pinched when about a foot long. This treatment increases the productiveness of the plants and keeps the fruit within easy reach for gathering. The bushes should be carefully tied to the stakes. Of 336 GARDENING FOB PROFIT. the Tarieties, that known as Wilson's Early comes in a week before any of the others. It is a deep black, large, and of excellent quality, being destitute of that hard centre so peculiar to most wild sorts. The Kittatinny comes next in succession. It is an immensely large berry of fine flavor, of a deep shining black color — one of the very best. It is some>vhat given to rust, which may be checked by removing all the rusted young shoots as they appear. The next is the old Lawton variety, which is hardly as good as either of the others, but has the merit of coming in after they are nearly done fruiting. There are a number of other kinds of Blackberries offered, but the varieties- sibove named are as yet standard sorts in most sections of the country. Any one growing Straw- berries tcsupply a local demand, must of necessity, have such fruits as Blackberries to succeed them as the season advances, and in most localities they will be found equally profitable with Strawberries, altliongh, perhaps, for local demand, they could Hot be sold in as large quantities. RASPBERRIES. The culture of the Easpberry is almost identical with that of the Blackberry, except that they may be planted one-third closer, and that in some sections, the Easpberry is not quite so hardy, and it is better to take tlie precau- tion of laying the shoots down close to the ground in the fall, being careful not to break them, and cover them up with corn stalks, straw, leaves or litter. This should not be done, however, until the weather is quite cold, say, in the latitude of New York, the first week in De- cember. The covering may be from three to six inches thick, and should not be removed in the spring until the middle of April, as, if removed too soon, the shoots, which would then be beginning to start, might be hurt CULTURE OF SMALL FKUITS. 337 by the late spring frosts. Easpberries are of three colors — red, black and yellow. Of the red, Outhbert,^ Hansell and Hudson Eiver Antwerp are the favorites. Of the black varieties, the G-regg is of the largest size, an enor- mous producer, of excellent flavor, and should, perhaps, be grown to the exclusion of all others of the "Black Caps." A yellow variety, known as '''Caroline," is of rich orange color, entirely hardy, and of excellent flavor. Another yellow kind, known as " Brinkle's Orange," is 338 GARDBNIlirG FOB I'ROFIT. Fig. 110. — THE GKEGQ KASPBEBBT. of the most delicious flavor, but it is not hardy unless in well sheltered spots. Fig. 111.— THE HAN8ELL RA9PBEBRT. CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 339 CURRAJTTS. The Currant is but little used except for j ies and for preserying purposes. There is, perhaps, no other small fruit that will give more weight of crop for the space it occupies than the Currant. However, as it is only used for these special purposes, and is but very little eaten at dessert, in an uncooked state, comparatively few are re- quired. The plants should be set out in the garden in rows about four feet apart, and three feet between the plants ; for market purposes, these distances may be in- creased one-half. The young shoots require to be pruned in the fall, cutting ofE about one-third of their growth, and- thinning out the old shoots when they become too thick. They are all trained in bush form, to a height of three or four feet. The best red varieties grown are known a^the Pay, Eed Dutch and the Cherry. Of the white kir^ds, that known as the White Dutch is the best. It is of a yellowish-white color. This variety is sweeter than the reds, and for that reason is better for dessert purposes. Black Currants are but little grown, and then exclusively for jams and jellies. They should be culti- vated in the same way as the whites and reds, although they are an entirely different plant, belonging to a differ- ent species. . - *t GOOSEBERRIES. The Gooseberry is but little grown in tMs climate, as our summer is entirely too hot for it, and it is rarely seen in good condition, as it ripens just in the heat of summer, when the weather is the hottest, thus forcing it unnaturally to maturity, so that the fine flavor ob- tained in milder climates, such as Great Britain, is never found here. For that reason it is not much grown, ex- cept to be used in a green state for pies or tarts, and is 340 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. in but little demand. Many of the English Tarieties are offered for sale here, but they are so subject to mildew, that they rarely do any good. Of the native varieties, that known as the Downing is of a greenish-white color when ripe, and of very fair quality. We have also a red Fig. 112.— HOUGHTON'S SEEDLING GOOSEBEEBT. native seedling known as Houghton's, which is of aver- age size and flavor. The culture is same as that of the currant. GRAPES. Although grape-vines can be grown in almost any soil, yet if a position can be obtained on a sloping bank, fac- ing south or southeast, running at a slope of ten or fifteen degrees, where the soil is stony or shaly, they will usually be found to do better than when planted on level lands, particularly if they can be manured. All the finest vineyards in Germany and France are so located, and the fruit is always better flavored and freer from mildew and other diseases than when on the level. How- ever, such conditions are not always to be obtained, and the vines, of course, are not so easily worked as when planted on the level. There is now so much advance CULTUEB OF SMALL FEUITS. 341 ^S^ rv -> 1 ^ ^ ^ - ■ . ■ ■■ 1.^ f » ' /' \%.i v 342 GAllDEinNG FOU PROFIT. made in our hardy varieties ol native Grapes, that those who have not had opportunities of seeing them will be surprised to find the vast improvement that has been made in this delicious fruit within the last ten or fifteen years. AVe have now drapes of the finest flavor, of all colors, ranging through all the shades of green, amber, red and black, ripening in succession from the middle of August until the middle of October. Immense areas are now being planted with the kinds that have proved most profitable for market purposes, and as they can be safely shipped to almost any distance, there is no need of being dej^endent upon a local market. There is much misconception as to the age at which a grape-vine should be planted. It is the general impression that they should always be three or four years old. This is a popular error, for no matter how large a grape-vine may be, it will never fruit to any extent the same season it is planted, and the larger it is the more it will suffer in being lifted and transplanted. Therefore, I always recommend pur- chasers to buy young plants, which not only can be bought at one-third the price of two or three year old ones, but are usually better, even at the same price. If a trellis is made for them, they should be planted at a dis- tance of six feet apart. The trellis may be any height from six to twenty feet, as desired. If planted in vine- yard style in the open field, without trellises, they may be set six feet between the rows and three or four feet between the plants, and tied up to strong stakes. The first year after planting, if with vineyard culture, they should be cut down, and only one shoot left to reach to the top of the five or six foot stake. If it has grown strongly and ripened well, that shoot will give a few bunches the second year and may be pruned close, so as to resemble a walking stick, but with the lateral shoots cut back to one eye only — that is, the main shoot is allowed to stand, and the side shoots or laterals are CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. , 343 trimmed to one bad or eye. This is what is called the Spur System, and will be found to be the most conve- nient for the inexperienced cultivator. There are special modes of pruning, which are best shown by illustration, and those who require fuller information on this sub- ject, I will refer to my work, "Gardening for Pleasure," where the subject of pruning is fully treated. The eight kinds which we would recommend for general culture are the following : Moore's Early. — This variety has large and compact bunches ; berries large, black, and covered with a rich bloom ; excellent flavor, and is one of the earliest, ripen- ing about the 1st of September, or a week before Concord. Cliampion. — Another excellent black; medium early. ]Viai2fara. — Is of greenish white color, sometimes tinted with rose ; of medium size for a white grape, flavor almost equal to the best hot-house grapes ; is immensely produc- tive, and sold in the New York markets last year for twenty-five cents per pound, while Concord and other older varieties sold at six cents per pound ; ripens the middle of September. Martha. — Another white ; not so good in quality, but a strong grower, which might suit in places where Niagara would fail. Wilder. — Has berries of medium size ; color reddish bronze ; berry of exquisite flavor, ripening middle of September. Salem. — Has large bunches ; color, white, tinted with pink ; of medium size ; delicate flavor ; ripening about ,1st of October. A grand variety. ISrighton. — Color reddish bronze, bunch and berries of average size, flavor excellent ; a most abundant bearer, and one of the very best. Ripens about the 1st of Oc- tober. 344 GABDENTNQ BOB PROFIT. Concord, the last we name, is one of the best known of all the sorts. It is much inferior in flavor, but it has the yaluable quality of seldom failing to bear abundant crops, and is indispensable in any collection, and if but one grape is grown, this should be chosen. CHAPTEE XXI. IMPLEMENTS. The tools or implements actually required for the market garden are comparatively few. The most im- portant implements in use in the vegetable garden, are plow and harrow, which should always be used to the Fig. 114.— KOLAUD CHILLED PLOW. exclusion of the spade or digging fork, whenever it is practicable to do so. No digging in the ordinary way can pulverize the soil so thoroughly as can be done by the plow and harrow, nor does trenching by the spade, much surpass in its results, that done by thorough sub- soiling. Figure 114 represents a plow now largely used by mar- ket gardeners and known as the Eoland Chilled Plov;. So superior are its pulverizing powers to those of the IMPLEMENTS. 345 spade that we know of no market gardener who would allow his ground to be dug, even if it were done free of cost. To avoid the frequent change of shares, and the extra cost of replacing them, a reversible, self-sharpening slip point (see figure 115), is now made. When the bottom ^•'-^i^L.l^ ^■^ *^^^ point is worn, and the plow ^^•V ^^^ tends to run out of the ground by rea- ^•i^ son of the rounded point, the slip point Fig. 115.-SLIP shake; jg taken out and reversed, and thus doubles the length of its useful life. Miner's Gold Medal Subsoil Plow (figure 116), is the best subsoil plow we know of. It involves new princi- ples, and accomplishes the work of stirring, loosening and draining the soil beneath the furrow of the common Fig. 116.— miner's subsoil plow. plow, lifting and breaking (but not turning) the sub- soil to the depth of fifteen to twenty inches, as may be desired. On very stiff soils, we use the subsoiler once in two years ; in lighter soils not so often ; although if time would always permit, there is no doubt but that it would be beneficial to use it whenever plowing is done. The Garden Harrow (figure 117) we find is well suited for garden work. It contains some forty teeth about ten inches long. These are driven throuHi the 34(J GARDUXING FOE PKOFIT. wood-work, leaving five or six inches of the sharpened end on the one side, and one and a half to two inches of the blunt end on the other, as shown in figure 117. After Fig. 117.— GARDEN HAEROW. the ground has been thoroughly pulverized by the teeth of the harrow it is turned upside down and "backed," Fig. 118.— DIGQING FORK. Fig. 119.— AMES^ FIRST QTJAHTT. as we term it, the short blunt teeth further breaking up the soil, and smoothing it to a proper condition to receive the seeds or plants. IMPLEMENTS. 347 But there are many spots in the garden that it is im- practicable to plow, such as our frames, borders, and occasionally between rows where the space is too narrow for a horse to walk. Such places must be dug, and here we use the Digging Fork, represented by figure 118, in Pig. 130.— SEELBTOir PIiOW. preference to the spade. Its prongs enter the soil more easily than the blade of the spade, and by striking the turned over soil with the back of the fork, it pulverizes it better than can be done by the' blade of the spade. Still there are many operations in the garden, such as the digging up of roots, earthing up of Celery, etc. , for which the spade is indispensable. For such purposes the Fig. 121.— TKIA.NGULAK ADJUSTABLE HABEOW. one represented by figure 119, and known as "Ames' First Quality," we find the best. For stirnng' between narrow rows of Cabbage, Celery, etc., we use a small one-horse plow before using the cul- tivator. This is represented by figure 120, and is known 348 QAEDBNING FOE PROFIT. as the Skeleton or Cabbage Plow. Following this, is our main implement for cultivating between rows, which is simply a Triangular Adjustable Harrow, represented by iiigure 121. This implement, we prefer to any variety of cultivator we have ever used, on ground where there arc no weeds, as its teeth sink from three to four inches deep if kept sharpened ; when extra depth is wanted, a weight is put on to sink itdeeper. Another excellent implement, which we have used to great advantage in our market gar- dens, is the Acme Harrow (figure Vl-i). which it will be IMPLEMENTS. 349 seen is of an entirely different construction from the harrow just described. As , a pulveriser or leveler we have found it one of the very best implements we have ever used for these purposes ; for it is not only a harrow, but, under certain conditions of the soil, it is to all intents and purposes a gang of small plows ; or, in other words, m a soft or light soil you can plow the ground just as thoroughly for six feet wide as you can do it with the ordinary plow eight inches wide. Although this imple- ment has been recommended especially for farm work, our own experience with it convinces us that it is equally valuable in the market garden. Still another excellent smoothing harrow is that known as the Disc, which con- sists of some sixty sharp discs, placed on revolving shafts so as to cut the soil to a depth of three inches by one Fig. 133.— DISC HAHROW. inch .in width, -which levels the ground as completely as can be done with a steel rake in the hands of an expert ■workman. The use of this implement has saved us an immense deal of labor, which previously was done by hand rakes. In all hoeing operations by hand, the Steel-Prong Hoe (figure 124), is used in preference to the old-fashioned blade hoe ; yet superior as this im23lement is to the blade hoe, it is not much more than twenty years since it came into general use. A man can do fully one- third more work with it, do it better, and with greater ease than with the blade hoe. True, it is not so good for cutting weeds, but weeds should never be seen in a garden, whether it be for pleasure or profit ; it is short- Bighted economy to delay the destruction of weeds until 350 GAEDEXING FOK PROFIT. they start to grow. One man will hoe over in one day more ground where the weeds are just breaking through than six will do if they be allowed to grow six or eight inches in height, to say nothing of the injury done to the ground by feeding the weeds instead of the planted crops. Another benefit of this early extirpation of weeds is, that taken in this stage, they, of course, never seed, >^ Fig. 124. — PRONG HOB. 125.— STEEL RAKB. Fig. 126.— SOtJFIXE HOE. and in a few years they are almost entirely destroyed, making the clearing a much simpler task each succeed- ing year. Another tool, used in place of the hoe, is the Steel Rake (figure 135), which we use in various sizes, from eight inches to twenty inches in width. Nearly all our first "hoeing "is done with rakes. That is, the ground is raked over and leveled in from two to three days after IMPLEMENTS. 351 planting. This destroys the germs of the weeds. In from live to ten days, according to the state of the weather, the ground is again gone over with the rakes. I am no believer in d'eep hoeing on newly planted or sown crops ; it is only when plants begin to grow that deep hoeing is beneficial. For using between narrow rows of crops Just starting from the ground, the Push or Scuffle Hoe (figure 126), is a most effective tool. We use them from six to twelve inches wide. They require to be always about three in- ches narrower than the rows ; thus, in rows nine inches apart, we use the six-inch hoe. Another indispensable implement is the Eoller (figure 127). It is of great im- portance, not only in breaking lumpy soil, but in firm- Fig. 127.— GAKDEN BOLLEK. mg it properly around newly sown seeds ; besides, the ground leveled by the roller is much easier hoed than if the surface were uneven or irregular. The roller we use is made of hard wood, and is five or six feet long and nine inches in diameter. The roller is bored through its whole length, and through this hole is put a bar of two-inch round iron. This bar gives the necessary weight, and its projecting ends afford points to which to attach the handle. The Double Marker (home-made), figure 128, is used to mark six or eight lines at once, as may be required, the spaces between the teeth being twelve inches on one side, and nine inches on the other. Where rows are re- 363 GAEDENINQ FOR PROFIT. quired only of these widths, every row is, of course, planted. But many of our crops require wider rows ; thus, with a twelve-inch marker we plant our early Cab- bages at twenty-four inches apart, the intervening rows being planted with Lettuce at the same time ; or, with Fii;. 128. — DOnBLE makkeb. the narrow side of the marker, every row nine inches apart is planted with Onion sets ; or, in such a crop as Beets, every alternate row only is used, making the rows eighteen inches part. This is the marker that has been Fig. 129.— RAPP'S ADJUSTABLE MAIIKER. in use for many years. AVithin the last year, however, a new implement, known as Eapp's Adju.-itable Ground Marker, has been offered, and a large number of thcui have been sold to the best market gardeners in our vicin- ity, all of whom, without exception, say that it effects a IMPLEMENTS. 363 great saving in time and labor, compared with the old marker so long in use. Kapp's Marker is made of hard wood and iron. By means of thumb-nuts it is adjustable in all its parts, as its name implies. The entire lengih of the hea^l is divided into inches, plainly marked ; thus the teeth may be set to any desired gauge with accuracy, while the depth of tlie trenches is regulated by two iron feet. An important advantage possessed by this marker over the old one is, that by raising the handle slightly the weight of the machine is thrown on the feet, thus allowing a shallower trench to be dug, and relieving the operator of the necessity of carrying the machine, as here- tofore. This Marker, an illustration of which we give ^rn'^'-TTt" 1 J "^ <^ \ r I Klg 130 — MAEtn WAGON in figure 129, can be obtained from most of the seed or implement houses. The Market Wagon (figure 130), is made after various patterns in different sections of the country. That shown in the engraving is the kind used by us, and is usually drawn by one heavy horse. It is strongly made, weighing about 1,400 pounds, and is capable of carrying from 3,000 to 3,000 pounds. The "Planet Jr." Combined Drill, Wheel Hoe, Cul= tivator and Plow is really a most excellent and valu- able implement, combining in one, three implements, all nearly as effective as any of them would be separately. The changes are easily a,nd quickly adjustable. We have 354= GAEDEiSrilirG POE PROFIT. Fig. isa.- -"pilanbt jb." double wheel bob, cultivator and plow combined. IMPLEMENTS, 365 used this implement for the past two years with great satisfaction and profit. Planet Jr. Double Wheel Hoe, Cultivator and Plow is on the same principle as the preceding, nearly ident- ical, except -wanting the Seed Drill Attachment. The Asparagus Knife (figure 133), is a tool intended for cuttmg the Asparagus below the surface of the soil. rig. 138.— ASPAEAGUS KNIFE. ■ the sa^ teeth being used where there is danger of injur- ing the edge of the knife. The Aspaj-agus Buncher, shown in figure 134, is the only implement of the kind that we know of, and vhile it is an improvement over the old pro- cess of tying by hand, it is not as perfect as it might be. The Garden Line Reel (Qgure 135), is best de- scribed by our cut. The best size wo have used is one that will carry 150 feet of line. Figure 136 represents a Horseradish Grater, and this machine is perhaps as convenient to use as any that can be found. It is easily operated by one person. The cylinder is covered with heavy perforated tin, and the roots, first cleaned by scraping, are held up against it and grated off in that way. Such a grater as we show will grate about fifteen pounds an hour. The Dibber (figure 137), is a very simple but indis- pensable tool. It is of importance to have it made in the manner represented here. It can be formed from a crooked piece of any hard wood, and shod with a sharp Flgr. 184.— ASPAs- AGtnS BUNCHEU. Kifr. 1?5.— GAIIDEN IjVm nEQL. 356 GARDBNIJSfG FOE PEOFIT. iron poiat, which gives weight to it, besides it always keeps sharp. Dibbers are too often made from an old Fig. 13u. — ^HORSEBASISB GEATEE. spade or shovel handle, when they are awkward and un- handy afiairs. Planting is an operation that often requires the most rapid movement to get the crop in at the proper time, and the best appliances in working are not to be disre- garded. With a Dibber of tliis style an expert planter with a boy to drop the plants, as we invariably practise, will plant from 6,000 to 10,000 per day, according to the kind of plants or the condition of the ground. I have on many oc- casions planted in one day three acres of Celery, holding about 90,000 plants with ten men, each of whom had a boy from ten to fourteen years of age, to drop the plants down before him. This plan of using boys is not generally adopted, but I have repeatedly proved that, by thus di- viding the labor, a boy and a man will do more dikbe'b.' planting than two men would do if planting singly, and each carrying his own plants. IMPLEMBUTS. 357 Another valuable market garden tool is the Planet Jr. Horse Hoe and Cultivator. The frame will expand to twenty-four inches, or close to five inches, or it can be adapted to almost any width of row. The value of this tool is largely due to the peculiar shape of the teeth, which will be understood by referring to the engraving. 358 GAKDENING FOE PROFIT. MONTHLY CALENDAR. The success of all garden operations depends upon preparatory measures ; for this reason the beginner in the business can be much benefited by being reminded, as he goes along, of the work necessary to be done to ensure successful results in the future. To do this, I must, to some extent, repeat directions given in the body of the work, but as they will be preserited here in a coudeused form, they will not tax the time of the reader. As in all other references made to dates, the latitude of New York is taken as a basis, that being not only the point from which our experience has mostly been derived, but also one that will best suit the majority of readers throughout the country. Those whose location is more southerly or northerly must use their judgment in adapting the directions to suit their locality. January. — Vegetation in our Northern States is com- pletely dormant during this month, so that, as far as operations in the soil are concerned, it might be a season of leisure ; but the business of gardening being one that so largely requires preparation, there is always plenty to do. The ground being usually frozen, and giving us good hauling, it is always the month in which our ener- gies are given to getting manure, muck, lime, etc., into convenient places for spring work. Care should be taken to get manure in heaps large enough to generate sufficient heat to prevent its being frozen, so that it can be turned and broken up thoroughly before it is spread upon the ground. This work is often very slovenly per- MOXTHLY CALENDAR, 359 formed, and the value of manure much reduced by in- atteation to turning and breaking it np during winter. Sometimes it is injured by being thinly scattered, so that it freezes solid ; and again, if thrown into large heaps, and left unturned, it burns by violent heating, getting in the condition which gardeners call "fire fanged." It is always an indication that the manure heap needs turning when it is seen to emit vapor, no matter how often it has been turned previously, for it should always be borne in mind that it quickly loses by heating, while it always gains by a thorough breaking up in turning. January is usually the month in which we have our heaviest snow storms, which often entail on us an im- mense amount of necessary, though unprofitable labor, not only in clearing roads, but also in clearing off the snow from our cold frames and forcing-pits, for even at this season of dormant vegetation, light is indispensable to the well-being of our vegetable plants ; unless they are in a frozen condition, that is, if we have had a con- tinuation of zero weather,- all our plants of Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower, etc., are frozen in the cold frames ; if in this state, the glass is covered up by snow, it is un- necessary to remove it, even for two or three weeks, but if the weather has been, mild so that the plants under the sashes have not been frozen when covered by snow, then the snow must be cleared from the glass as soon as practicable. In the greenhouses, hot-beds, or forcing- pits, where artificial heat is used, the removal of the snow from the glass is of the utmost consequence. If not done in December, the final covering up. of Cel- ery trenches, root-pits, and all things requiring protec- tion from frost, should be attended to in the first week of this month. Should the ground be open enough to allow of digging (which occasionally occurs here even in January), let all roots remaining in the ground be dug up and pitted, 3tiO GARDENING FOLi PROFIT. as another chance is not likely to occur before spring. Cold frames and forcing-pits, particularly the former, should be aired whenever the weather will permit, for it is necessary to carry them safely through until spring, that they may be properly hardened. (See Chapter on Cold Frame:.!.) Sow, in greenhouse or hot-bed. Cabbage, Cauliflower ard Lettuce. (See Chapter on " How to Kai.se Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce," page 51.) Februaet. — The gardening operations difEer but little from ihose of January, except that in the latter part of the month, as the days lengthen and the sun gets brighter, more air may be given to framing and forcing-pits. Hot manure shouM now be got forward to be prepared for liot-beds, and if desired, some may be formed this month. (See Chapter on Hot-beds.) Hiive all tools purchased or repaired, so that no time maybe lost in the more valu- able days of next month. It is important to always liave spare tools of the leading kinds, so that men may not be thrown idle, at a hurried season, by the breaking of a fork, spade, or hoe. In harness and implements, con nected with the teams, it is of great importance to have spare parts to replace those liable tn be broken ; other- wise, half a day is frequently lost by the breaking of a whiffle-tree, or plow share, causing more loss by delay than tliree or four times the cost of the article. Sow, for succession crops, Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce in greenhouse or hot-beds. March is one of the busiest months in the year with U3. Hot-beds are made and planned or sown, and Let- tuce crops may be planted in cold frames and forcing- pits (see directions under these heads). In the latter jKirt of the month wo often begin, on dry soils, the sow- ing or planting in the open ground of such h.irdy vege- tables as Horseradish, Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, IJad- ishes, Turnips, etc., etc. Although we gain but little in earliness by starting before April, yet it forwards our MONTHLY CALENDAK. 361 operations, so that it equalizes labor more than when starting late in spring. Enthusiastic beginners must avoid the too common error of beginning out-door operations too soon, when the soil is not Bufficiently dry ; for, if the soil is dug or plowed while wet, it is highly injurious, not only destroying the present crop, but in- juring the land for years after. Sow for succession, if wanted. Cabbage, Cauliflower, or Lettuce, in hot-beds, greenhouse, or cold frames. New plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, and Artichokes may be made, and old beds top-dressed by digging in short manure close" around the plants ; we consider it more economical of manure to do this in spring than in fall. (See Asparagus.) Such roots as Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, etc. , planted to produce seed, may be set out the latter part of this month, on soils that are warm and dry, drawing earth up around the crowns so as to protect them from sharp frosts ;• in hoeing, in April, this soil is removed. Where extra laborers are wanted for the garden, I have always considered it economy to secure them in the early part of March, even a week or two before they are really needed, for if the hiring of them is delayed until the rush of work is upon us, we often have to pay higher rates for inferior hands, and have less time to initiate them in their duties. To such as require large numbers of hands, and look to such ports as New York for emi- grants, let me caution my friends from the rural dis- tricts not to believe too implicitly in the promises of these prospective American citizens. Much vexatious ex- perience has taught me that one out of every three men is either worthless, or will run away, so that for many years back, if I wanted four hands, I made one job of it and hired six, well knowing that before a week had passed, my force would be reduced to the required number. 362 CtARDexing foe peofit. Apeil brings nearly all the operations of the gar- den under way ; the planting and sowing of all the hardy varieties of vegetables is completed this month. (See table in Chapter on Seed Sowing). Look well to the hot- beds, cold frames, or forcing-pits ; they will require abundance of air, and (where artificial heat is used), plenty of water ; we have now bright sunshine, promot- ing rapid vegetation under glass, and to have heavy crops, they must not be stinted in watei'. Hot-beds are particularly critical in this mouth ; an hour or two of neglect, in giving air, may quickly scorch the tender plants that you have been nursing with so mnch care for a month previous ; and a balmy April day may terminate ill a stinging frost at night, making short work of your hot-beds if they are not well covered up by straw mats. Plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, etc., if not made last month, should now be done, as those set out later than April will not make such a vigorous growth. Suc- cession crops of Lettuce, Beets, Cabbage, Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Eadishes, Spinach, Turnips, etc., may be planted or sown during the latter part of the month, to succeed those planted in March and early part of April. The early sown crops should be hoed, and the ground stirred close to the young plants, so as to destroy the germ of the weeds now appearing. Mat. — Although the bulk of the hardy vegetables is now planted, yet the tender varieties are still to come ; they require more care, as they are more susceptible of injury, by too early or injudicious planting, than the others. In tlie early part of the month, the succession crops, named in April, may bo j'et planted so as to pro- duce good crops, and the tender varieties, such as Bush Beans, Corn, Melon, Oki'a, Pepper, Squash, Tomato, may be sown or planted after the middle of the month ; but Egg Plants, Sweet Potatoes, Lima Beans and Peppers had better be delayed to the last week in May or 1st of MONTHLY CALENDAR. 363 June. The first produce of the spring plantings will now be ready for use. Lettuce or Radishes, planted in cold frames m March, are matured from 5th to 20th ■May, and if covered up by straw mats at night, ten. days earlier. In warm situations, on rich, light soils, the Radishes, Lettuce, Turnips, or Peas, planted in March, are fit for market. Rhubarb and Asparagus are also fit to be gathered, on early soils, the latter part of the month. Additional labor is now beginning to be required, the marketing of crops occupying a large portion of the time, while the thinning out of sown crops, and the keeping down of weeds which are now showing themselves everywhere, entails an amount of labor not before neces- sary. To withhold labor at this critical time is short- sighted economy, whether by the owner of a private or market garden ; for let the crops planted and sown once get enveloped by weeds, it will often cost more in labor to clean the crop than it will sell for. It is not at all an uncommon occurrence to see acres of Carrots or Parsnips plowed down, after being carefully manured and sown, from neglect or inability of the owner to pro- cure labor at the proper time. The rapid development of weeds is, to the inexperienced, very deceptive ; a crop of Carrots, Parsnips, Beets, or Onions, may appear to be easily manageable at a given day in May ; but a few days of continued rain occurs, and the crop that could have been profitably cultivated on the loth is hopelessly over- grown on the 25th. June is one of the months in which we reap the re- ward of our operations in the market garden ; at this time the bulk of all the early crops matures in the Northern States. So far, nearly all has been outlay ; now, we receive the returns. In this district our early crops of Asparagus, Beets, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Let- tuce, Onion, Peas, Radislies, Rhubarb, Spinach and 364 GARUENIXG FOB PROFIT. Turnip are sold oS, aud the ground plowed for the second crop (except in the cases of Asparagus and Rhu- barb), by the end of the month. For private gardens (or in special cases for local markets), succession crops of Beets, Bush Beans, Cabbages, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Peas, Eadishes and Potatoes may still be planted, but, as a rule, it would hardly be profitable for market pur- poses, as it would occupy the land wanted by the mar- ket gardener for his second crop, besides the market buyer of the cities will hardly touch a vegetable or fruit behind its season at any price. He will pay ten cents per bunch for Radishes in May, and will pass by a far better article of the same kind in July or August^ though offered at one-fifth the price. He will give fifty cents per quart for Tomatoes (half-ripe), in June, that he could not be induced to touch in October, if he could buy them at twenty-five cents per busliel. Tlie Cucumbers, planted in cold frames and forcing- pits, are also marketable in the latter part of this month. Great care must be taken to have them abundantly watered in dry weather ; inattention to watering (par- ticularly of all vegetables under glass), is sure to entail loss on the cultivator, by giving an imperfect or partial crop. Watering had better be done in the evening, unless chilly, whenever the surface appears dry, not by a mere sprinkling, but by a thorough soaking — not less than a gallon to every square yard of surface. As eoon as the Cucumbers are all cut from the frames, the sashes should be piled up at the ends of each section and covered with a shutter, and a weight of some kind put on the top, to prevent these from being blown off by high wmds. July, — The remaining part of the spring crops are cleared off in the early days of this month, and by the' middle of it, unless the season is unusually dry, all the ground is planted with the second crops of Celery, Sage, MONTHLY fiALENDAB. 365 Thyme, Late Cabbage, Broccoli, Caulifiowei-, or Leeks. Little is done to these crops this month, as but little growth is made during the hot, dry weather, and- newly planted crops are merely stirred between the rows with the hoe or cultivator. Some of the other later crops are now maturing for market. Bush Beans, Cucumbers, Potatoes, Squashes, and, in early places. Tomatoes ; also succession crops of Peas, Beets, Onions, Cabbages, etc., such of these as only mature during the end of the month, render the second crops rather late, unless for the later crops of Celery and Spinach. August. — Except the months of January and Febru- ary, August is a month requiring less labor in the mar- ket garden than any other. Usually all the planting has been done in July, and the long drouths, common at this season, stagnate the growth of even our most luxuriant weeds, so that in this month, of all others, the garden ought to be clean. Late plantings of Celery may be made to the middle of the month, and still give fair-sized roots for winter. Spinach may also be sown for an early crop, to be cut off in fall. Ruta Baga Turnips should be sown early in the month, and the white and yellow varieties during the later part. Be careful now, if the land is dry, to firm after sowing. (See "Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting.") If the "fly" attacks them, it may be kept down, so as to do but little harm, by frequent applica- tions of lime dusted lightly over the rows. Bush Beans and Peas may still be sown for late crops. For Peas for late sowing, we found our "First of All" variety the best. lii 1886, a crop sown 35th of August was marketed late in October, and sold at excellent prices. The Onion crop will ripen off during this month, and when convenient to market, should be offered for sale as soon as gathered , as the price received for those first sold is frequently double that of those coming in ten days later. 36C GARDENING FOR PROFIT. September. — The cool nights and moist atmosphere of this month begin to tell strikingly on the crops planted for fall use. Celery, Cabbage and Cauliflower now grow rapidly, and require repeated stirring of the soil with the plow, cultivator, or hoe. Celery that is wanted for use towards the latter part of the mouth may now be " liandled " or straightened up, and the earth drawn to it by the hoe ; in a week or so af cer it may be " banked up " by the spade to haK its height, allowed to grow for another week or more, until it lengthens out a little further, when the banking should be continued as high as its top. In ten days (at this season), when thus finished, it is blanched sufficiently to use, and should then be used, or it will soon spoil. Care must be taken that no more is banked up than can be sold or used, as it is not only labor lost, but is decidedly hurtful to the Celery by making it hollow. The practice recommended by most authorities, and still followed by private gar- deners, is to keep earthing it up every two weeks from the time it begins to grow ; this is utter nonsense, re- sulting in making tough, stringy, and rusty Celerv — utterly unfit to eat, while the expenditure in labor would be twice more than the price it would usually bring if sold ; for further information on this important subject, see Chapter on Celery. The seeds of Cauliflower, Cabbage and Lettuce should be sown this month, from the 15th to the 25th, for the purpose of being pricked out in cold frames to be wintered over. It :s very im- portant that the sowing should be done as near these dates as possible, for if sown much before the 15th the plants may run up to seed when planted out in spring ; if much later than the 25th, they would be too weak to be wintered over. Shallots and Onions should also be planted this month, and Spinach and German Greens, or "Sprouts," sown to be wintered over, all now for spring use. MOlfTHLY CALENDAi;. 3G7 October. — This month corresponds in part to June of the summer months, being that in which the returns from the second crops come in. Celery that has been banked or earthed up, now sells freely and in consider- able quantities. All the crop should this month be " handled," and, as much as possible, earthed up. Cauli- flower is usually scarce and dear in the early part of this month, but unless the fall has been unusually moist, is generally not matured until towards the end of the month. Thyme, Sage and all Sweet Herbs should now be sold, from the beginning of the month, cuttmg out only every alternate row, as it gives the crop time to grow, so that the remaining rows spread sufficiently to fill the space. (See article on Thyme, etc. ) The crops planted or sown last month must now be carefully hoed and the weeds removed ; for, though weeds are not quite so numerous in variety as in summer, Ohickweed, now very abundant, is one of the most ex- pensive weeds of the garden to exadicate. The plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce, re- commended to be sown last month, are now fit to be pricked out in the cold frames. (See detail of the process, page 45.) NovEMBBK. — This month warns us that winter is ap- proaching, and preparations should be carefully made towards securing all products of the garden that are perishable by frost. The process of putting away the Celery crop in trenches for winter use (see Celery article), should be begun about the 5th or 10th of the month in dry weather. That put in trenches then will be blanched sufficiently for use in six or eight weeks, but when suffi- cient help can be obtained, it will always pay well to bank or earth up a large portion of Celery by the spade, clear to the top ; this will usually keep it safe from injury from any frost that we have in this month, and thus protected it need not be put away into winter 368 GARDEITINQ FOR PROFIT. quarters — the trenches — before the end of November. Put away thus late, it will keep usually without the loss of- a root until March or April, when it is always scarce and high in price. The great difficulty most persons have is from stowing it away and covering it up too early ; this practice of earthing it up to the top roughly in November we Lave only recently practised, tut find the extra labor well repaid, as we are enabled thus to save this very valuable crop without loss. There is rarely need of applying any covering of leaves or litter to the trenches this month, and it cannot be too ofi.en told that the covering up of vegetables of all kinds in winter quarters should be delayed to the very last moment that it is safe to do so. Beets, Carrots, Cabbages and Cauli- flowers must be dug up and secured this month iu the manner recommended in " Preserving Vegetables in Winter." Horseradish, Salsify and Parsnips, being en- tirely hardy and frost proof, need not necessarily be dug, although from the danger of their being frozen in the ground next month, if time will permit the vvork had better be progressing. All clear ground should be dug or plowed, and prop- erly leveled, so that on the opening of spring operations can be begun with as little delay as possible. If draining is required this is the most convenient time to do it, the ground being clear and not yet much frozen. Towards the end of the month the sashes should be put on the Cabbage and Lettuce plants in cold nights, but on no account should they be kept on in day-time, as it is of the utmost importance that they be not made tender at this time by being " drawn" under the sashes. I may again repeat that these plants are half hardy, and it is killing them with kindness to protect them from sHgJit freezing. Cabbage and Lettuce plants may be ex- posed in any place without glass or other protection where the thermometer runs no lower than ten above MOIS^THLY CALENDAR. 369 zero. Rhubarb and Asparagus beds will be benefited by a covering of four or six inches of rough manure, or any other litter, to prevent the severity of the frost ; the crop from beds thus covered will come in a few days earlier, and will be stronger than if left unprotected. December. — Occasionally we have the ground open, so that digging and plowing can be done to nearly the end of the month, but it is not safe to calculate much after the first week ; though by covering up the roots, still undug, with their own leaves or with litter, we are often enabled to dig our Horseradish or Parsnips very late in the month, and, like all other vegetables, the later they remain in the soil they grow in the finer is the quality. Celery trenches should receive the first covering early in the month, if the weather has been such that it has been unnecessary before. The covering should not be less than four or five inches of litter or leaves, only taking care that the material is light ; weight or closeness would prevent evaporation too much at this season, while the weather is not yet severe. The final covering should not be later than the end of the month. The crops of Spinach, Kale, Onions, Shallots, etc., that have been planted or sown m September, should be covered up with hay or straw if their position is much exposed ; if not, there is no particular necessity. Vfhen all has been secured safely in winter quarters, attention must be energetically turned to procuring manure, muck, and all available kinds of fertilizers. There is little dan- ger of spending too much in this way if you have it to spend ; depend upon it, there is no better investment if you are working your Garden for Profit. Straw and rope for straw mat making should always be on hand, so as to give employment to the hands in stormy weather. INDEX. Capital Required 17 Climate, Ours Different from England 105 Crops, Eotation of 110 Cuttings, Variation of Plants fi'om.. 273 Drainage ^ 28 Drain, Board... 30 Flat Stone 30 Rubble. 30 Tile 29 Fertilizers (See Manures) 38 Application of 39 Comparative Value of 39 Preparation of 38 Special 41 Forcing Pits 63 Frames, Cold, and Hot-beds.. 44 Ailing 46 Cucumbers in 48 Frozen Plants in. 49 Lettuce in 47 Protecting Cloth for 50 Seed Sowmg in 49 Shelter for... _ 45 Snow upon 49 Spring Raising of Cabbage Plants, Etc 51 Ground, Preparation of the.. - 31 " Hill," Meaning of the Term 2-24 Hot-beds 56 Egg Plants in 58 Frame for 56 Forcing Lettuce in. 58 Manure for 57 Pepper Plants in 58 Sashes for - 56 Straw Mats lor 61 Sweet Potatoes in 60 Sowing in 108 Tomato Plants in 58 When to Plant in 45 Importance of Ventilation 105 Houses, Forcing and Green- house Buildings and Ap- purtenances 66 Greenhouse for Forcing .. 7:^ John Hudson's 73 Heating of-. -. 76 Heated'by Flue 70 (370) Heating by Return Flue 84 Flues, Danger from 70 Flue, How to Build 70, 87 Greenhouses, Profits of.-. 69 Pump for 66 Rotation in 67 Soilfor. 76 Vegetable 24 Wateringin 66 Sashes, How Fastened 65 Sashes, How to Glaze 75 WeUs 24 IMPLEMENTS. Buncher, Asparagus... 355 Dibble or Dibber 356 Drill, Planet Jr. Combined 354 Fork, Digging 346 (irater, Horsera dish 356 Harrow, The Acme ..- 348 The Disc 349 Garden 346 Triangular Adjustable 347 Hoe, Horse, and Cultivator 357 Prong 350 Push 350 Scuffle 350 Single Wheel, Etc 358 Knife, Asparagus 355 Line, Gaiden, and Reel 355 Marker, Adjustable 352 Plow, Cabbage 347 Roland Chilled 344 Slip Share for 345 Subsoil 345 Skeleton 347 Rake, Steel 350 Roller, Garden 351 Spade, Ames' First Quality... 346 Wagon, Market 353 Laying Out of Garden 24 Location of Garden 23 Manures (See also Fertilizers) 33 Alternation of 35 Ashes, Wood 43 Bone Dust S5 Compai-ative Value of 36 Cotton-seed Meal 43 Gas Lime 43 INDEX. 371 Manures, Green Crops as - 37 Peruvian Guano 34 Preparing Guano, Etc Sa Hops, liei'use 33 Horn Shavings _ _ Si Horse 33 Lime 42 Marl _ 43 Mucl£ 40 Night Soil 35 Plaster 43 Pouch-ette 40 Salt as 40 Sugar-house Scum 34 "Whalebone. Refuse 34 Men Suited to G ardenlng 13 Monthly Calendar, January -. 358 Febraary 360 March.- __ _._ 360 April 362 May __. _ 362 June 363 July 364 August 863 September 368 October 367 November 367 December 369 Number oi: Plants to an Acre. 113 Plants for Frames, When to Sow 44 Plant's Propagated from Cut- tings, Do they Vary? 273 Profits of Gai-dening _ _ _ _ 20 Rosebuds, Boston _._ 273 Rosebuds, Madison _ 2V3 Seeds and Seed Raising. 89 Cabbage become Annual. 105 California, Seed Growing in ■. 91 Celery, Success In Sowing VA Failing to Germinate 04 Feet, Use of, in Sowing . . 98 "Firming" the Soil' over Seeds 96 How, When and Where to Sow 103 Indiscriminate Sowing ... 103 Quantity to Sow an Acre . Ill Quantity for a Given Num- ber of Plants 113 Soaking of 95 Soil for Sowing 107 Sown in D17 Weather . . . 94 Testing 89 Vitall1;y of. Duration of .. 93 "Wrongly Blaming the Seedsmen. 104 Situation of Garden 34 SMAiL FKUITS. Blackberries 334 Culture of 325 Kittatinuy 336 Lawtou 336 Wilson's Early... 836 Currants ;>jiy Black 339 Cherry.. 339 Fay 339 Red Dutch 339 White Dutch 339 Gooseberries 339 Downing 340 Houghton 340 Grapes 340 Age of "Vines 340 Planting 342 Brighton 343 Champion 343 Concord 344 Martha 343 Moore's Early 343 Niagara 343 Salem 343 Wilder 343 Raspberries 336 Covering in Winter ;'33 Brinkle's Orange 337 Caroline 337 Cuthbert 337 Gregg (Black-cap) 337 HanseU 337 Hudson River Antwerp. . . 337 Strawberries, Forcing 81 Forcing, Kinds for 83 Layeiing in Pots 837 Open Culture 325 Strawberries, "Varieties of 328 Bidwell 333 Crescent 333 Crimson Cluster 339 Downing 333 Henderson 328 Hoffman 332 Jersey Queen 333 Jewell 333 Pari-y 333 Sharpless 332 Wilson 333 SoU, Preparation of 31 Resting the 110 Selection of 25 "Sports" 273 Sonthei'n States, When to Sow and Plant in 311 Asparagus 311 Beans 311 37-3 GABDENING FOR PROFIT. Beets.- 312 Cabbase - - - 313 Cauliflower --- 312 Celei-y 312 CoUards 313 Com---- ----- 313 Cucumbers 313 Egg Plant 313 Greens, German 314 Lettuce 314 Melon, Musk and Water-- 313 Okra or Gumbo - - - 314 Onion 314 Peas - 314 Potato, Wliito 314 Potato, Sweet-- 314 Eadisli-- --- --- 314 Rhubarb 315 Turnips 315 Spinach 813 Squash 315 Tomato 315 Transjjlanting 114 Variation in Plants 273 Vegetables, Hardy - - - 107 Vegetables, Tender - . - 107 Vegetable VlantSjHow to Plant 115 Vegetable Plants, How Much Cold Will They Endure - - - - 116 Varieties of Vegetables— Too many- 117 VEGETABLES, VARIETIES OF : Ai-tichoke 129 Chai-d 128 Common Green 129 Green Globe 129 Artichoke, Jerusalem , 130 Varieties 130 AsparagTis 118 At the South- 124 Beetle 127 Buncher 126 Fertilizers for-- 125 Gathering the Crop 126 Planting 119 Profits of 127 Propagation 118 Salt for 125 Van Siclen's Method 120 Without Transplanting--- 123 Asparagus, Varieties of 120 Colossal 120 Giant 128 Palmetto 124 Balm 131 Basil- 131 Bush - 131 Sweet --- - 131 Beans, Bush, Kidney and Pole 131 Beans, Dwarf Varieties 133 Earliest Red Valentine 133 Early Red Valentine lo4 Early Mohawk 134 Gallega 134 Large Refugee 134 Long Yellow Six- Weeks-. 134 Refugee 134 Thousand to One 134 White MaiTowf at 134 Beans^ Running or Pole 135 Lima, Dreer's Improved.. 130 Jersey Extra Early--- 130 Large White 136 Giant Wax - -. 137 German Wax ■ 137 Hortieultm-al 137 Scarlet Runner -- 136 Speckled Cranberiy 137 Beans, Wax, Black 134 Flageolet 135 Golden-- 135 Beet 138 Bastian's Blood Tumlp--- 141 Dewing's Improved Blood Turnip 141 Eai-ly Blood Turnip 141 Eclipse --- 140 Egyptian Tui-nip 140 Long Smooth Blood 141 Swiss Chard ,- 141 Borecole, or Kale -- 142 Dwarf German Greens 142 Dwai-f Green Curled Scotch 143 Pui-ple 143 Siberian Dwarf Curled ---142 Sprouts 142 Vei-y Eaily D wai-f 143 Broccoli - - . 144 Early Waleheren 145 Purple Cape 145 White Cape 145 Brussels Sprouts 145 Cabbage and Cauliflower 146 Aphis 155 Black Flea..-- 155 Butterfly 155 Caterpillar 155 Club-rootin 157 Green Fly on 155 Insects - 155 In Southern States 151 " Jumping Jack " -, :,» Keeping in Winter 154 Kinds for Early Crop 148 Late, Cultui'e of 152 Louse -- 155 INDEX. 373 Cabbage, Ma^-ot 156 Plants, What Cold They win Endure.- ._ 149 Seed 161 Slug 155 Soil and Manures _ 147 Wire Worm 156 Cabbages, Early 163 Early Flat Dutch 165 Early Jersey Wakefleld... 163 Early Winnlngstadt 165 Henderson's Early Sum- mer 164 Premier : 164 Cabbages, Late 165 American Drumhead Sa- voy 166 Felder Kraut-.. 166 Fottler's Improved Bruns- wick 165 Mammoth Eock Eed 167 Marblehead Mammoth ... 166 Eed Dutch 167 Selected Late Flat Dutch. 105 Tui-nip-rooted 313 Cardoon 169 OaiTot 170 Danvers 173 Early French Forcing 171 Eacly HalE-long Scailet Carentan 1T3 Early Half-long Scarlet (Pointed Eooted) 173 Half-long Eed (Stump Eooted) 171 Large White Belgian 173 Long .Orange, Improved-- 173 Yellow Belgian --- 173 CaullHower- 167 Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt 169 Extra Early Paris - - - 169 Half Early Paris 169 Henderson's Early Snow- ball- 167 Large Late Algiers 169 Le Normand*B Short- stemmed --- 169 Nonpareil 169 Celery---- 174 Olo^e Planting 179 Dwarf Kinds Preferred... 179 Earthing up 178 "Handling" 178 Planting Out 176 Profits of 184 Euston 180 Shipping of 184 Sowing the Seed 174 Storing for Winter 180 Celery, Storing in Trenches... 180 In Cellars 183 Celery, Varieties of 185 Boston Market 188 Giant White SoUd 189 Henderson's Golden Dwarf.. 185 Henderson's Half-Dwarf . 187 Henderson's Eoee '.. 189 Major Clark's Pink. 190 Sandringham 188 Turnip-rooted. 180 White Plume 186 Celeriac 190 Dwarf Ap]5le-shaped 190 Chervil, Turnip-rooted 178 Chives 191 Collards (Southern) 195 Corn Salad... 191 Corn, Sweet. 195 Planting 196 Profitable Crop of 196 Corn, Sweet, Varieties of 197 Cory 197 Crosby's Early Sugar 197 Early Marblehead 197 Early Minnesota 197 Egyptian 198 Henderson. 197 Mammoth Sugar 198 Squantum Sugar 197 Stowell's Evergreen 198 Cress .■". 193 Upland 194 Water 193 Profits of 194 Cucumbers 199 How to Plant 199 The Pickle Crop 301 Cucumbers, Varieties of 301 BuiT 303 Early Cluster 303 Early Eussian 303 Green Prolific 303 Improved White Spine ... 301 Nichols' Medium Green . . 208 Egg Plant 203 "BlackPekin 306 Long Purple 206 New York Improved 205 White-fruited 206 Endive 306 Broad-leaved Batavian . . . 308 Green Curled 207 Moss Curled 207 Fetticus 191 Garlic _ 308 Gherkin, West In dia 203 Greens, Dwarf G orman 142 374 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. Gumho 241 HorseracUsh 208 The Sets 209 Planting 209 Profits of --- 212 In :lian Cress 240 Jerusalem Artichoke 180 Kale or Borecole 143, 291 Kohlrabi 212 Eai-ly White Vienna 213 Early Purple Vienna 213 Leelc . 213 London Plag 214 Musselburgh 214 Lettuce 214 Forcing in Hot-beds 55 New York "Salad Patches" -.. 216 Profits of 217 AU the Teai- Round 222 Lettuce, Vai-ieties ol 319 Black-seeded Simpson 220 Black-seeded Tennis Ball- 220 Boston Marljet-- 221 Early Curled Simpson ;il9 Large White Summer Cab- bage 221 NowTork 221 Paris White Cos „--. 222 Salamander £21 White-seeded Tennis Ball 221 YcUow-seeded Butter .... 221 Marjoram 308 Marjoram, Sweet 223 Martynia 2:14 Melon, Musis 223 Culture of 224 Prolitof 224 Soil for 225 Insects Injmious to 220 Melon, Musk, Varieties of 227 Baltimore 228 Early Hackensack.. 227 Golden Netted Gem 228 Green Citron... 230 Hackensack 228 Montreal Market 229 Melon, Water. 230 Profits of 230 Melon, Water, Varieties of ... 231 Black Spanish 232 Citron 233 Gypsy 331 Ice Cream 331 Icing 332 Ice Bind 233 Kolh's Gem 3:"!1 Mammoth Iron-clad. 231 Moantain Sweet 231 Melon, Water, Rattlesnake-.- 381 Phinney's Early 231 Scaly Bark... 233 Mint 233 Mushroom ZH Making the Bed... 336 Making the Spawn 239 Preparmg Manure Im- 236 Spawning the Bed ._ 236 Mustaixl 2:>1 Black 234 White 234 Nasturtium.. _ -- 240 Dwai-f ..- 240 TaU 340 New Zealand Spinach 290 Oki-a 311 Onions .- 241 Hai'vestinsj 249 Insects Injurious to - - 249 Farm Crop, Asa 243 Profltsof .- 250 Manures for !>15 Planting 313 Prepaiing the Giound 2-16 Profltsof... 243 Sowing the Seed . 247 Sowing in Fall 213 Sets 212 Storing the Crop 249 Weeding the Crop 247 Onions, Varieties of '^"il Kennuda 253 Exti-a Eai-ly Flat Red 253 Giant Rocoa 253 Laa-ge Red AVethersfield -- 251 Lai-ge Red Italian Tiipoli. 254 Large White Italian Tripoli 345 Neopohtan Marzajola 353 Queen 253 Southport Lai-ge Yellow Globe : 351 Southport Red Globe 252 Southport White Globe .. 353 Silver-skin 2S3 White Portugal 253 Yellow Dutch 253 Yellow Globe Danvei's 251 Onions, Potato 251 Onions, Top 254 Orach 201 Oyster Plant 283 Pai'sley , in Winter 255 Parsley, Vaiieties of 2"iO Double Curled.. 256 Fern-leaved 356 Hamburgh 257 Henderson's Emerald 266 Plain... 257 INDEX. 3?5 Parsley, Turnip-rooted 257 Pai-snip ___ 257 Eai-ly Bound 258 Hollow-crowned 258 The Student 258 Pea, Varieties of 258 Alaska 261 American Wonder 261 Black-eyed Marrowfat---'- 264 Bliss' Abundance 263 Bliss' Everbearing 263 Champion of England 263 First of All 260 Improved Dan'l O'Kourke 261 Kentish Invicta 261 McLean's Advancer 261 Premium Gem - 261 Stratagem 263 Pride of the Market 264 Telephone - 263 Yorkshire Hero 263 White Marrowfat 264 Pepper, Vai-ieties of-- 264 BuUNose 264 Cranberry --.■- 265 Golden Dawn 265 Lai-geBeU 264 Long Eed Cayenne 265 Mammoth 264 EubyKing--- 265 Squash 265 Sweet Mountain 204 Tomato-shaped 265 Pepper Grass 193 Potato ---- 265 Diseases of 266 Colorado Beetle 266 Tubei;s, Cut or Whole.--- 270 Potatoes, Varieties of - - - 267 Beauty of Hebron 267 Clai-k'sNo. 1 269 Early Rose 267 Empire State 268 Pearl of Savoy - 267 Perfect Peach Blow - 269 Rochester Favorite 269 Rural Blush -- -- 369 St. Patrick - 269 Triumph- 269 Vanguard 267 White Elephant 268 Potato Onions 254 Pumpkin _-- 274 Radish as a Succession Crop.- 275 Forcing-- 77 Radish, Varieties of 275 Beckert'e Chai-tier 276 Chinese Rose-cclored, Winter ---- 278 Radish, Early Round Dai-k Eed 276 French Breakfast 277 Gray Summer Turnip 278 Long Black Spanish 278 Long Scarlet Short-top. .- 275 Olive-shaped 278 Red Forcing Turnip 279 Round Black Spanish ---- 278 White-tipped Scarlet Tur- nip 277 YeUow Summer Turnip . . 278 Rhubarb --- -- 278 Forcing 279 Linnsens 281 St. Martins -- -. 281 Victoria- - 281 RutaBaga 307 Sage 308 Salsify 283 Salsify, Black 283 Savory, Summer 308 Scorzonera 283 Sea Kale 283 Blanching 384 Shallots 285 Sorrel 285 Spinach 286 Profits of 287 Spinach, Varieties of 289 Laa-ge Round Leaf Viroflay 290 Long Standing 290 Norfolk Savoy-leaved 289 Prickly 290 Round Leaf 290 Thick-leaved 290 Spinach, New Zealand 290 Spinach, Substitutes for 390 Sprouts 142, 291 Squash, Summer Varieties 291 Boston Marrow 293 Bush Crookneck 293 Yellow and White Bush Scalloped 2C3 Fall and Winter Varieties: Essex Hybrid 293 Hubbard 293 Mammoth Chili 294 Marblehead 294 Vegetable Marrow - . . 294 Winter Crookneck - - - 294 Summer Savory 308 Swedes or Swedish Turnips 307 Sweet Herbs - 308 Sweet Mai-joram-- ---223, 308 Sweet Potato 295 Starting the Plants 297 Sets or Draws 296 Nansemond 297 Eed Skinned 297 37tl GAEDEXIXG FOB PKOriT. Sweet Potato, Yellow Skinned. 297 Swiss Chanl (See Beet) 141 Thyme 308 Tomato 298 EarlinesB in 300 Pi-ofiteof 393 SavinR Seeds of 300 Tomato, Vai'ieties ol . - 301 Acme 301 Canada Victor 303 General Grant 303 Hathaway 's Excelsior 303 Milcado 301 Paragon 801 Perfection 303 Plum, Red and Yellow ... 303 Tomato, Trophy 303 Top Onions 254 Turnip, Varieties of 304 ' Amher Globe 306 Extra Early Milan 306 Golden Ball 306 Purple-top Strap-leaf . . _ ." 306 Purple-top White Gloho.. 306 Ked-top Strap-leaf 306 Seven-top 307 Snowball 306 Snow-white 307 Turaip, Euta Baga Kinds 307 Improved American 307 Large White French 308 Shami-ock 308 Alphabetical Catalogue 0. Judd Co., David I. Jndd, Pres't, '' " . \ ■ . fe PUBLISHERS AND IMPORTERS OF a^T^, t,, ^ All Works pertaining to Rural Life. Agriculture, Horticulture, Etc. FAR.lt AIV1> 4,iARl>Ei\. Allen, R. L. and L. F. Now Amei-ican Fiirm Book $ a.so American Farmer's Hand Book 3.30 Asparagus Culture. Mex.ciotii so Bamford,C.E. SilkCulture. 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Carpenters' and Builders' Guide 75 Powell. Foundations and Foundation Walls 2.00 Reed. Cottage Houses 1.25 House Plans for Everybody 1.50 Dwellings 3.00 Our Very Latest Publications. Through the Yellowstone Park on Horseback. By GkN. a. W. WiNGATE 1.50 Fly-Fishing and Fly.-IVIaking. By keene i.so How to Handle and Educate Vicious Horses. By O. R. Gleabon l.CO The Law Of Field Sports. By Geo. P. Smitu ].oo Bridle Bits, a Treansa on Pmctlcal Horsemaiisbip. By Col. J. C, Batteiisbt ". 1,00 The Percheron Horse in America and France ■■ • loo Profits in Poultry. UbuI'uI nml Grnaiiieiitiil Breeds ].(.0 Cape Cod Cranberries. By James Webb. Paper :,0 How to Plant. ByM.W Johnson... 7 60 The American Merino for Wool and Mutton. By . BTEPUEN POWEBS '. 1.75 New and Revised Editions. HallOCk. Sportsman's Gazetteer 3.00 Stewart. Irrifmtion for llie Farm, Garden and Orclmrd J..")0 Farm Implernents and Machinery. ByTnoMAs 1.50 Egg Farm. By Stoddard. Clotli 50 Play and Profit in My Garden Jso Silos and Ensilage »" Send Postal for Complete Catalogue of onr Publications regarding Horses and Ilovsemanshii), Hnnting, Fishing, and all otUer Ont-Door Sports and Pastimes. 0. JUDD CO. DAVID W. JUDD. Pres't 751 BROAOWAir NEW ITOIIK. ■I .■aN«i«^^SSi^'^\*>>ii«SSS^{i^^ . _ >. iii;!i:)4Q^Jiflti«JK\\\\->