M X.- r i- ■r\-.:-y ■'~'\'.^i. :-■'■•'"'" '-r.- Digitized by Microsoft® CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FROM A FUND RECEIVED BY BEQUEST OF WILLARD FISKE 1831-1904 FIRST LIBRARIAN OF THIS UNIVERSITY : I868-I883 Digitized by Microsoft® DATE DUE ..-^ >*- IW *^»^^*^*^1 ^p^"**«' AtTOPg-r ^iriTT^ «»ra>u^» ! ■ yuK 1,^ 1^^^^ .i-'i jL*'t CAYLORD DA 690.Y2ia28 """"'"" "-'""^^ iiliii mil ™X., .?.!, „Sr.^3* Yarmouth: 3 1924 028 282 352 Digitized by Microsoft® This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation witli Cornell University Libraries, 2007. You may use and print this copy in limited quantity for your personal purposes, but may not distribute or provide access to it (or modified or partial versions of it) for revenue-generating or other commercial purposes. Digitized by Microsoft® 3ffiati0!iip'3 iiidnri] nf mu\ f armntitli. Digitized by Microsoft® M Cornell University Library The original of this bool< is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028282352 Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® THE AR,MS OF THE TOWN OF GF.7,.;.T TABJtfOTTTH FROlvI A_N" ATTCIENT SHIELD JjISCOVBRED OW TEE CEILING- OF TTAB-MZOtrTH CHUR.CH.M"0-V» 1847 Frc Ziiko''' larm' Digitized by Microsoft® THE lislnrq nf §ml fmmli fgenrp jHansJjip, Co^un Cleric, EDITED BY CHAELES JOHN PALMEE, F.S.A. £X ET NOSTRA JURA. ®teat ^atmoutli i PUBLISHED BY LOUIS ALFRED MEALL, THE QUAY AND J. EUSSELL SMITH, SOHO SQUAEE, LONDON. mtcccliiij. n Digitized by Microsoft® inBtccnfij. 7 Digitized by Microsoft® PREFACE Henby Manship, the Author of the History now first published, was born at Great Yarmouth. His father, Henry Manship, was a merchant "bredd and borne" in that town ; and was elected into the Corporation on "Tuesday next after the Peast of St. Luke the Evangelist," in 1550. He appears to have taken an active part in the management of the Haven, when, in 1560, the town was reduced to great distress, in consequence of the choking up of the old channel. In that year he was appointed one of a Committee of twelve persons "to go downe to viewe and "appoyntte where the havyne shall be cutte owght at thys "tyme;" and he assures us that "he manye tymes travayled iu and about the business :" and it was chiefly by his pro- curement that Joas or Joyce Johnson, the Dutch engineer, ("a man of rare knowledge and experience in. works of that nature,") was brought from Holland : and the present haven constructed under his direction. Our Author was, as he himself informs us, educated at the Pree G-rammar School, — which the Corporation (to their honor be it said) had provided upon the precincts of the dis- A Digitized by Microsoft® U PREFACE, solved Hospital of St. Mary. He became an Attorney, and, probably through the influence of his father, was made one of the four Attorneys of the Borough Court. He was elected Town Clerk on the 4ith of November, 1579 ; but resigned that ofl&ce on the 2nd of July, 1585. He continued to be a member of the Corporation until 1604, when he was dismissed for saying that, "Mr. Damett and Mr. "Wheeler" (the then representatives of the town) "had behaved themselves in parliament like sheep, and were both dunces." As they were both members of the Corporation, the offence was the more personal. It was not until after this occurrence that Manship ap- pears to have employed himseK in compiling his history. In 1612 he obtained leave "to go to the Hutch and peruse and copy Hecords." It then appeared that "many of the Charters, "Evidences, and Writines, which did appertayne to the said "towne, had of long tyme been remayninge in custody of "sondry persons who had been employed in the business of "that township; by means whereof sondry of them were "missing, whereof the Towne, at their great cost and chardge, "had been enforced to take exemplifications, as well out of "His Majesty's Records remayning at Westminster, as also "out of the Tower of London, and other places : and also that "those Charters, Bolls, and Evidences, which remayned in "the Vestry, Guildhall, and other places, did not onely lye "dispersedly, but also very disorder edly ; and had not, these "greate nomber of years, been perl^sed and read, — to the no "little damage of the whole Incorporation." At his instance the Corporation appointed a Committee, who met almost Digitized by Microsoft® PREP ACE. Ill daily for two months, and examined every document then ac- cessible, and recorded what was their tenor and where kept. The result of their labours was ordered to be recorded in a 1 book, which should be "engrossed by Henry Manship, and delivered into the Assembly ; to be disposed of according to their pleasure." Portunately this book remains : but, with the exception of the Charters and Borough K-oUs, almost every document enumerated in it, is now destroyed or lost. Nor has greater care been taken of the many papers of great historical as well as local iaterest, of which the Corporation became sub- sequently possessed. A recent investigation has discovered that nearly all have shared the same fate.* He appears to have regained the favour of the Corpora- tion, for he was "appointed to ride to London, about a "Licence to transport Herriags in stranger bottoms, and to "endeavour to get the Pishers of the Town discharged from "Buoys and Lights." Tu 1614, when Sir TheophUus Piach and Mr. George Hardware were elected Burgesses in Parliament, Manship was nominated their Solicitor, with a salary of 40s. per week. In 1616, he was again sent to London to manage some public business : but on this occasion he was accused of improperly "borrowing money in the Town's name," and he again fell into disgrace. • The Town Council have lately appointed a Record Committee to ascertain what docu- ments remain, and to take measures for their future preservation. Digitized by Microsoft® IV PBErACE. His work was completed in 1619 ; and the Corporation voted him a gratuity of £50. However, his expectations of profit and fame were prohably not realized ; for we find him quarrelling with that body : and on the 9th of April, 1620, "according to an order made in open Sessions against him, "for publishing a pamphlet, extolling himself and defaming "the Town falsely, and for divers other abuses and mis- " demeanours, whereof he was in open court accused and "found guilty, — ^he came with aU submission, acknowledging "his faults and oifences, as heartily sorry for so doing." In the Herald's Visitation of Norfolk, in 1613, it is re- corded that "Henry Manship, of Yarmouth," married Joan, daughter of Henry Hill, of King's Lynn, (second son of James HiU, of Bury St. Edmunds,) by Anne, daughter of [Erancis] Gourney, of Westam,* in Norfolk. Manship died, in 1625, at an advanced age and in poverty, for his widow was compelled to petition the Corporation, "for some allowance for her late husband's work, wherein he made collections and abstracts of the Town Charters." This petition was referred to Mr. Hardware, with the Chamberlains, and Churchwardens ; who, it seems, granted her a small annuity. An original copy of Manship's History, with an Appen- dix containing a Transcript of the Charters made by him, was deposited in the Hutch, but has long ago disappeared.! • Probably intended for West Barsham, where the Norfolk Gurneys were seated for some centuries. tThis MS. volume, or at least a contemporary copy, is in the possession of Dawson Turner, Esq. F.S.A., who obtained it from the late Mr. Samuel Robinson of Great Yarmouth. Digitized by Microsoft® PRErACE. V Several copies are, however, extant, from one of which, deemed to be the most accurate, the present book has been printed, without deviation or addition. There are many errors apparent, which Manship would probably have cor- rected had he revised the press ; but they have been suffered to remain. In the plates (from original drawings) which accompany this work, it has been sought to embody chiefly objects of interest and antiquity not previously illustrated. When the Editor undertook his task, he imagined that the limits to which the projected volume was necessarily restricted, would allow him to insert in the Notes and Appen- dix, all that he could glean from other sources. In this, however, he has been mistaken. The materials which have come to his hands are more than were anticipated: they are, he believes, replete with interest (whether considered as local or general history,) but he has been im^able to compress them sufficiently for the original design. He has, therefore, been compelled to omit many subjects alto- gether; and to form them into a supplemental volume, which will be published uniform in size and price with the present. It is intended to comprise : — 1. The Charteb of King John, in extenso, with explanatory notes ; and a Review of the succeeding Royal Charters. 3. The Ancient Customs and Usages of the Borough; with some notice of the Law of Merchants. 2. The Heehing or Free Fair, and the Cinque- Ports Bailiffs. 4. The Ecclesiastical History of the Borough, from the Reformation to the present time. 5. An account of St. Nicholas Church {with five illustrations'). 6. The Electoral and Representative History of the Borough. 7. The General History of the Borough, from the Restoration to the present time. 8. List of the Tradesmen's and other Tokens issued in Yarmouth. Digitized by Microsoft® Vi PREFACE. 9. Lists of Public Officers, (viz.)— Bailiffs and Mayors— High Stewards — Sub-Stewards Recorders — Town Clerks — Ministers and Preachers— and Burgesses in Parliament. With Biographical Notes, &c. A Copious Index to the whole work will be added. It must be obvious to every one who considers the cost of producing a work like the present, that the Publisher, in fulfilling his engagements with the Subscribers, cannot expect that the undertaking will prove remunerative. Nevertheless, the supplemental volume will be suppKed at the same price. The Editor has not considered it necessary to burthen the notes with numerous references to authorities : — suifice it to say, that he has availed himseK of the labours of SwiNDEN, whose History of Yarmouth, published in 1772, is valuable for its extreme accuracy, and the number of original documents, which the size of that work enabled him to pub- lish entire. He has, also, consulted Dbtjery's Historical and Topographical Notices, published in 1826 ; Turner's Sepul- chral Reminiscences ; GtILLINGWater's -ffis^ory of Lowestoft; Blomeeield's History of Norfolk ; Suckling's History of Suffolk ; and other works. It only remains for him to acknowledge his obligations to the many valued friends who have aided him with informa- tion. He is much indebted to Charles Cory, Esq., (Town Clerk,) for having, in the most liberal and handsome manner, placed at his disposal the extensive and valuable MSS. col- lections of the late Robert Cory, Esq. jun. E.S.A. He begs also to offer his thanks to Thomas "W. King, Esq. (York Herald,) Erancis "Worship, Esq., Henry Harrod, Esq., the Digitized by Microsoft® PRErACE. Vll Rev. Edward S. Taylor, B.A., J. H. Parker, Esq., Edward Steele, Esq., Mr. Bayfield,— and other kind friends who have taken an interest in the work. The Editor will consider his own labours amply repaid, if he should have succeeded in bringing together a collection of facts which have hitherto laid "dispersedly:" and he is not without the hope that what has been added to Manship's His- tory, gathered from the authentic records of this ancient cor- porate Borough, may serve to illustrate the gradual establish- ment of the commercial greatness of our country, and the civil and religious freedom of its inhabitants. Of Manship's work he will say nothing : it is a literary curiosity. In his own portion, many faults and inaccuracies will be discovered, — ^iu extenuation of which he points out to his readers, that the time devoted to the task, could only be occasionally snatched from other more pressing and im- portant engagements. C. J. P. Great Yarmouth, December, 1853. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® (C'nutiiitH. PAOR MANSHIP'S HISTORY . 1 NOTES TO MANSHIP'S HISTORY 195 APPENDIX TO MANSHIP'S HISTORY . .... 353 SECTION I. . . . 355 CIVIL GOVERNMENT .... 355 ARMS .... . 360 INSIGNIA ... 361 PLATE 363 ROBES 364 SEALS . 366 SECTION II. — Political History of the Town from the time OF Manship to the Restoration . . . . 370 SECTION III. — Convents and other Religious Houses . . 402 BENEDICTINE PRIORT 402 BLACK FRIARS 409 GRET FRIARS .... . . . . 418 WHITE FRIARS . . . 425 AUGUSTINE FRIARS 427 ST. mart's HOSPITAL . . . . • . 430 LEPER HOUSES ... 432 CHURCH OF ST. MART, SOUTHTOWN . .... 435 HERMITAGE, SOUTIITOWN 433 Digitized by Microsoft® tU nf Slliistrntinns. Arms of the Boeodgh ....... Frontispiece '^ Ancient Hutch Keys fusing page 212 '^ Tollhouse Hall 256 Gable of Elizabethan House ....... 262 >^ Plan of the Town temp. Q. Elizabeth 287 <^ Insignia of the Corporation 361 "'^ Corporation Plate seS"^ Ancient Seals of the Borough (Plate I.) 366 "^ Ancient Seals of the Borough (JPlate II.) . . . ' . 368 ^ SOMERLEYTON HALL, SUFFOLK 388 Hall of Benedictine Priory 403 ■^'^ Digitized by Microsoft® atfeenba et (JCom'scnlia. Page 5, Line 16. dele the comma after halet, at end of line. Page 220, Line 8, for teacher's read searcher's. Page 257, Line 13, for Merrick read Meyrick. Page 257, Line 6 from bottom, after court add room. Page 284, last line, for Richard read Robert. Page 292, Line 10 from bottom, for "1681 " read « 1688." Page 344, at the paragraph relating to the Fairs, the following note should have been inserted, — By the charter of Charles II., the corporation were empowered thenceforth for ever, yearly to keep and hold two fairs, — one on the third Thursday and Friday in April, and the other on the third Thursday and Friday in August. was namea uernemua, as m the iiook of Doomsday or JNotitia of England, collected and made in the said King's Time, in Titulo terrarum Regis, in the Title of the King's Lands, remaining in his Majesty's Exchequer, more at large appeareth. Now forasmuch as Thanksgiving, as one saith, is a most Praiseworthy vertue, to ||''^f''ca, God acceptable, and to man very pleasing and delightful ; the same being the very life of all Corporations, who, as they for ever live ICUS L, vi, Cap. 1 Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® iBvtat ^armDutfi. 'STfit Town of Great Yarmouth or Jermouth, called in old time Yarmouth named Garianonum, was afterward in the Saxon Language named Garmud <5annud or Jhiermud, that is in the English Tongue, Gar-mouth or Jhier- mouth, and in the days of Edward (who of his vertuous life and Godly conversation was called S* Edward the Confessor, the last Britannia king of the Saxon race that swayed the scepter of England, who deceased this life in the Year of the World's Creation 5027, of the Birth of our Saviour Jesus Christ 1065, in the ninth year of Henry the fourth Emperor of Rome, in the first of Philip the French King, and in the ninth Year of Malcome the third King of Scots,) was named Gernemua, as in the Book of Doomsday or Notitia of England, collected and made in the said King's Time, in Titulo terrarum Regis, in the Title of the King's Lands, remaining in his Majesty's Exchequer, more at large appeareth. Now forasmuch as Thanksgiving, as one saith, is a most Praiseworthy vertue, to £^'^f''cap';'? God acceptable, and to man very pleasing and delightful ; the same being the very life of all Corporations, who, as they for ever live B Digitized by Microsoft® Jlansfjtp's lltstorg of and have existence, so may they with most facility, and ought most especially, evermore to have benefits in remembrance, for thereby they deserve to have more kindnesses conferred upon them ; which if this my poor Labour may effect, as it is a thing which in all the days of my life forepart I have especially aimed at, so for the obtaining thereof, my endeavours and well wishings in those to come hereafter shall never be wanting. ^nlJ as of all the earthly benefits the Town has received, the first reducing it into one body politick or incorporation is to have AnnoTlos"* the preheminencc, for by it the same hath been for the space of 4 1 1 years quietly and peaceablj' governed, so is the name of the first founder thereof to all Yarmouth Posterity most kindly for evermore to be remembered, according to that of Senecca, " the name of such as have performed any good unto us be not to be passed by ia silence." ®5Ht worthy, famous, and valorous King John (though in his reign very disastrous) after that this Town from a Sand in the Sea, which by the defluction of the tides grew dry and firm land, whereby it became habitable, by the space of four hundred years increasing (but of that more hereafter) grew to a great multitude, over whom, about the beginning of the Reign of Henry I. a Provost was ap- pointed, which one hundred years it continued, until it pleased King John by the name of Gernemua the same into one body politick to reduce and establish. And on the 18*'^ day of March, in the year of our blessed Saviour, 1208, at Marlebridge, by his Charter under the Great Seal of England, to incorporate, and the same with many large immunities and privileges (which in due place shall be declared unto you) did endowe. ^fter whom succeeded King Henry III., his son, who by his third Charter bearing date at S' Paul's in London, the 28*i' day of September 1261, in the forty-fifth year of his reign, not only the A Provost appointed in 1109 Charter of KJohn Charter of Henry 111. Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat ^armoutfj.— 1.6X9, name thereof from Gernemua (by addition, or rather interposition of two letters) to Gernemutha did enlarge, but also unto the liber- ties thereof was very bountiful ; amongst others, authorising the Town the same with a Ditch and a Wall to inclose and fortify, toxtiaea Whereunto it pleased Edward his Son, after the Conquest the first of ^^^^^l °f. that name, by his second Charter bearing date at S' Albans, the 28*'' day of April, 1298, in the twenty-sixth year of his reign, in honour of their well deservings, and to use his own words therein expressed, viz. "pro bono et laudabili servitio," &c., — for good and praise- worthy Service, which his well beloved and faithful Subjects, the Burgesses of Yarmouth, to him and his Progenitors (sometimes Kings of England) have done, — to add thereunto this word Magna Magna pre- o o / ' ^ ^ ^ .y fljjj ,„ the (Great) insomuch that ever since that time it hath been by the ""■"'^ Princes succeeding (and at this day is) termed in their several Charters and Grants by the name of Magna Jernemutha in Latin, and in English, Great Yermouth or Jermouth, changing that which was the first letter g into j, and the last letter d, which the Teu- tonick or Germans (of which we be descended) do still pronounce it, into t.h., as for example where they say Fadir and Moodir, we say Father and Mother, and where they say Be, dis, dat, we say The, this, that ; so that now this Town is commonly called Yar- mouth or Jermouth. '2rf)tS Town is seated at the mouth of the said river, in the old time called Flumen Gariensis, the river Ger or Jer, which the River Yare Britons called Guern, the Englishmen Gerne and Jere, which ariseth out not far from Gernston, a little Town in Norfolk, whereof it took the name, and now it is commonly called Hier or Yare, which river divideth the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk asunder, and a little beneath, viz. about two miles from the famous City of Norwich, falleth into the river Wentsome or Wentsar, long since River went- . . sum called Venta Icenorum, of the City m old time named Venta, now b2 Digitized by Microsoft® 4 M'^nsW^ l^istorg of Norwich Caster, about two miles distant from the said City of Nor- wich, where not only Venta hath lost its name and almost the seat where it stood, but also the said river Wentsomc doth the like, for it is from thenceforth no longer called Wentsome or Wentsar, but Hier, which river Hier runneth into this Town of Yarmouth or Jermouth. And forasmuch as Nature in itself hath not given to anything a proper name whereby it is named, but some special note for differ- ence or knowledge of the thing is imposed unto it, to that end have Origin of many Towns and great Cities taken their Denomination of the rivers Names of , Cities which pass by or through them, as Exmouth, of the river Ex ; Plymouth, of the river Plym ; Weymouth, of the river Wey ; Car- mouth, in Dorsetshire, of Car; Debentian, of Deben; Blyburg, of Blyth ; according as one saith, — " The names, oft times we see, " With things themselves do well agree." So doth the Town of Yarmouth or Jermouth, of the River Hierus or Jerus, a fair and fishful river, which passeth all along the West side thereof, and is there called the Haven, which according to the British speech should be termed Avon, for so they do call all Rivers in their Language, (from which I suppose it took the first name,) and then out-leadeth itself into the great Ocean Sea, which divideth England and the Netherlands asunder, of which Town and River, changing only their name, as old Alex-" Neckham long since did of the River Stoure which passeth by Waterford, in Ireland, in this wise " The river Hier hath great desire fair Tarm" rich to make, " For by this place, he hies apace, his course with sea to take." And as the same Author elsewhere saith of the City of Egcester, so may I of Yarmouth, on this wise " To Yarmouth Town, Jar, a river of Fame, " First Qarmud called, imposed the Name." Plato de Sap, Digitized by Microsoft® (BxtdX ^armoutl}.— 1619. And liere let me tell you what I found written in commendation of that Township in certain Old Parchment Fragments, yet remaining Document::^ in the Vestry of Yarmouth, sometime parcel of a very ancient Chro- nographical Table, now defaced, which more than three score years past myself have seen hanging on the wall as thou enterest the East Door, usually termed the Marriage Door, which is situate on the south side of the Church afore^'^ but is now of late, with many other Insertions, new written and placed in the Senate or Assembly, of '■ , , Camden's Yarmouth, whereunto M'' Camden in his last and largest edition, ^^gj'™"^* translated into English by Philemon Holland, Doctor in Physick, folio 477j touching the situation of this Town of Yarmouth hath relation, which for the antiquity sake I have thought right good to express unto you as they be there set down in Latin ; the words be these, — " 3«rnemulta urbs est murata, super mare scitenata a civitate Norvici ex parte orientali Centum Studies. Qucs cum sit sita inter duo fiumina salsa, hdbet, tamen copiam aquee dulcis ad potandum et lavandum habilem. Urhs ista in cultu divino, in Domorum venustate, Vestium honestate, Cihorum largitate, a nulla civitate Anglicd siiperata. Cujus habitatores in dando Cibum et Potum quasi naturaliter curiales. In hac urbe unum est valde laudabile, quod nun- quam in ed, vir ecclesiasticus, qui de peccato carnis, publice sit noius," SSlSt'cS I thus English, — The City of Yarmouth is walled, g.^^^,;^^ ^^ situate upon the Sea, distant from the City of Norwich toward the "'^ ^°"° East an Hundred Furlongs, which although it be seated between two Salt floods, yet hath plenty of fresh water, meet to drink or to wash within it. This city in the Worship of God, in the neatness of Houses, comeliness of Apparel, and plenty of Diet, not to be sur- passed by any city of England ; whose inhabitants be very courteous in Bounty and Hospitality : moreover there is one thing in this City most worthy of commendation : there hath not dwelled in it any Ecclesiastical person which of any fleshly crime hath been at any' time, as our records saith positively, detected. Digitized by Microsoft® iM;ansf)ip*s llistorg of Speed's Chronicle Yarmouth not one of the Cinque Ports ^via because I would not ground myself nor persuade you to believe a Yermouth record only, hearing of the great Theatre pub- lished by John Speed In the year 161 1, 1 rode fourteen miles to see and read it, whereout I have collected what there he hath written concerning Yermouth In Chap. 18, fol. 35, of his book — " ^ermautl)," salth he, " is the Key of the Coast, seated by the Mouth of "the River Yere, begun in the time of the Danes, and by small accessions " growing populous, made a Corporation, whereof be two Bailiffs, incorporated " by King Henry the third, and by his Charter about the fifteenth year of his " Reign walled ; it is an ancient Member of the Cinque Ports ; well built and "fortified; having only one church, but fair, and being founded by Bishop " Herbert in William Rufus' time. It maintaineth a Pier against the Sea, at the " yearly charge of five hundred pounds or thereabouts. It hath no possessions " as other Corporations, but like the children of -lEolus and Thatis, Maria et " Quatuor Ventos, as an Inquisition findeth in the tenth year of King Henry the " third, coram Martina de Patensale, Waltero de Everwick, &c., as appeareth, " there is Yearly in September the worthiest Herring Fishery in Europe, which " draweth great concourse of People, which maketh the Town much the richer " all the Year following, but very unsavoury for the time. The Inhabitants are " so courteous as they have a long time held a custom to feast all Persons of " worth repairing thither." ■^DSUS far John Speed, who although he hath mistaken the time of the Incorporation, In saying It was In the Days of King Henry the third, when In truth It was In the ninth Year of King John, and In hke manner accounting It an ancient member of the five Ports, where in very truth It never heretofore was, nor as yet Is, or ever, as I think, will desire to be„ any member of them ; Yet in regard he hath taken great pains, and hath In many things writ- ten very truly (for which he worthily deserveth good commendations) and In those merely by misinformation hath been seduced, I will rather Impute the error unto It, than to his want of care In that business. Digitized by Microsoft® ®reat l[armout!i.— 1619. ®tlS Yermouth standeth upon the East side of the river situation aforesaid In the County of Norfolk (which is in East England, and called long since East Angle, or the Kingdom of the East English) upon a dry and sandy soil, which maketh the Seat thereof to be very pleasant and delightsome ; And of a Maritime Town I may truly say, the very Seat itself of Pleasantness ; And of which it may be said, according as King Edward the third said of a very fair and strong Castle which he built at Queen-burgh, that it was pleasant for sight, to the Terror of his Enemies, and Solace of his people ; and what is there said of it may be as one saith, " Mutato Nomine de te \Fabula\ narratur" Let us hut change the name, And Yarmouth is the very same. ®5tS Town is by situation in that part of the County which is called East Flegg, which is a most fruitful and fertile soil for Corn, insomuch as not many grounds in this Kingdom are to be preferred before it, as well it is witnessed when the rule of it with other the East part of England, being by King Canutus granted (as saith Hermandus the Archdeacon who lived in the year IO70) unto one Turkillus, a great Commander, and in those days of high note and esteem amongst them, it was then named to flow in plenty and abundance of all wealth, especially of Corn, for we must suppose, as Ovid saith " Nee tellus eadem parit omnia ; vitihus ilia " Convenit hcec Oleis, hoc henefarra virent." And as M"^ Camden saith " in many Men's opinions it hath the sou fattest soil and softest mould, and performed with the least charge of any County in all England ; and may well be called the Granary of all the Country." And lest that this town of Yarmouth should be thought to be barren, and not to partake of the nature of that soil to w* it is so near conjoined (I mean of like fertility,) let me tell Digitized by Microsoft® 8 iIHansf)tp's l^tstors of The Denes you, and that most truly, that albeit the Deans or Downs of Yar- mouth be but short Grass, by reason the same is overcharged with Cattle, (for being Common the poor there hath like privilege with the rich, so that the one may not exceed the other in the feeding of any sort of Beasts of what kind soever to be put thereon) it can- not have growth accordingly. Yet, notwithstanding is the feed so sweet, and the sand so warm, whereon the Beast does couch and rest itself, that it doth nourish and battle the same (be it Horse, Cow, or Calf) in such wise that it will fat it as speedily, and causeth the Milch Cow there to give as much Milk commonly, as any other the like Beasts which do live in any of the Countries adjacent. And howsoever Winterton, Somerton, Martham, Ormesby, both the Casters, with many other Towns adjoining to Yarmouth, and which are and do lie in that very Tract, by a Writ bearing Teste 5° Martii in the ninth year of Edward the second, at Clapson, directed unto the Sheriff of Norif. and Suff. then commanding them to make re- turn, into his Majesty's Exchequer, of all the Hundreds, Towns, and Lordships, within that County, were returned in East Flegg. Yet was the Town of Yermouth inserted among the Towns of West Flegg, as by a Book remaining in the Office of his Majesty's Re- membrancer intituled " Copia de nominibus Villarum &; Brno." may appear, so at this present in business of that County, Yermouth is reckoned among the Townes of West Flegg ; which error no doubt did originally spring from the first misplacing thereof by the Writ ; for by all the Ancient records, and the late Map of Norff. by M"" , John Speed, it is directly set and placed in the Hun* of East Flegg afores'5. But to return to my purpose intended, for I do not mind to weave this web any longer. ©fits Yarmouth is a part of the Iceni, a people who long since did inhabit Norff. Suff. Cambridge, and Huntington, and had their abiding; and being watered with the said river lerus, on the West Digitized by Microsoft® 0reat ^[armciutfi,— X619. and South parts, the great Ocean, as Paulinus saith of BuUoigne, " Oceanum barbaris Fluctibus frementem," that is The Ocean Sea doth rage and roar, And it with Billows beateih sore. Not unlike to that old verse long since made of Conquest, changing the name " Nobilis Jermutha salsis Thetis alluit undis." The noble Town of Yarmouth Great The Salt Sea Floods do ever heat, — especially upon the North East, and South of the Mouth of the Haven thereof, ready to inrush upon it, and to overwhelme all the Marshes and low Grounds which do lie between Yermouth and Norwich, were not the force thereof withstood by the unspeakable Charges and Day Labours of that poor Township, — whereof more (God willing) shall be spoken in place convenient, — ^which maketh the Plat of Ground whereon it standeth not much unlike an Isth- mus, and the form of it much like unto a Wedge, for the farther to the South the narrower it is. But more like unto a Languet or Tongue thrust out, resembling, in my conceit, in Shape the country of Italy, as the same is in Maps described, which is as the Leg of a Man stretched out at length from his Body. For as Italy is begirt on the one part with the Alps, and on the other three with the Seas, so is this Town of Yermouth with the main Continent or firm Land on the North part only, and with salt waters on the ^ East, South, and West Parts. ©j^tS Town of Yarmouth, (containing in length from North to Extent and South, very near an English Mile within the Walls) is situated in Yarmouth Longitude 25 degrees and 10 minutes, and in Latitude 52 degrees and 42 minutes. But in the Seaman's Chart Yarmouth is said to be in 27 degrees and 30 minutes in Longitude, and 53 degrees in Latitude, -w"'^ difference, not daring to take upon me either to reconcile or confute, I leave to the learned Mathematicians to c Digitized by Microsoft® Camden Britan. 10 M^nsW^ iHtstorii of determine. And here, by your patience and good leave, I will digress awhile out of my course, and do not think it amiss to set down what our most learned Cosmographer, M"" William Camden, fn his geographical description of this our Country of Britannia, fol. 4775 touching this our Yarmouth affirmeth : His words be these, — Garianonum '^ffUt this our Town of Yarmouth was the old Garianonum, where in times past the Stablesian Horsemen (which was a Colony in company of the Romans) kept their standing Watch and Ward against the barbarous Enemies ; as he dareth not affirm, neither caistor that Garianonum was seated where Caster (in times past the fair seat of S"" John Falstalfe, a most martial Knight, and at this time pertaining to the Pastons) is now builded. But he is persuaded that Garianonum flourished at Cnobersburgh, that is, as he inter- Burgh castiepreteth it Cnober's City, we call it at this day Burgh-Castle, in SuiF. about three miles distant from Yermouth, which then was a Ecciesia^t!^'' most pleasant Seat, by reason of Seas and Woods together; wherein a Monastery was builded by Forsex, a Holy Scot, by whose per- suasion Sigebert, King of the East Angles, became a Monk, and resigned up his Kingdom : who afterwards being drawn against his will out of this Monastery, to encourage his people to Battle against the Mercians, together with his Company, lost his Life. Now, for that it may serve for Example, that as well Cities have their fatal periods of their flourishing Estates, as men of their lives, Garianonum ij jg wholly decayed, only old ruinous Walls, in form as it were four ^^""^ square, built of Flintstone and British Brick (but all overgrown with Briars and Bushes) be there still standing, amongst which otherwhiles are Roman pieces of Coin gotten forth, so that it may seem to have been one of those Fortifications that the Romans placed upon the South Side of the River Hier, or Yare, to repress the Piracy of the Saxons, or rather that it was the ancient Garianonum.. Digitized by Microsoft® Gnibb's Haven &xmt iarmout!j.— 1619, 11 itself, where the Stablesian Horsemen had their Station, and kept ward at the Declination of the Roman Empire in Britain ; and thinketh that Yarmouth arose out of the ruins thereof; and also that the Caster was one other of the Roman Forts, placed upon the North Side of the mouth of the said River Hier. True it is, one of the mouths or outlets of the said river had issue into the Main Ocean near Caster aforesaid, at a place called Grub's Haven, (of which more shall be spoken hereafter, God willing) but, like as the North Western wind hath placed the Current upon Holland over against it, and by Drifts of Shells and Sand Heaps hath choaked the midst of the Rhine mouths, even so the North East Winds afflicting and annoying this part of the Coast of NorfiF. hath there driven the sand up in heaps, in such wise that many Hundred Years past it hath dammed up the Mouth of the river or Channel w^'^ passed forth on the North said of Yermouth afores*. So that Yermouth is now, and long since hath been, towards the North joined to the main Continent of East Flegg aforesaid. But for my own part that this Fort at Caster was then built, (all reverence as becometh caltir due unto so worthy and learned a Writer as M'' Camden) T am not of his opinion. My reason is, for that the matter and manner of building do shew it to be by many Years of a far more recent and modern contriving than that of Burgh Castle, and report doth most confidently affirm the same to be built by a great French Personage for his ransom when he was taken prisoner in the days of Edward IV., and when that wars were between France and England. ^ntl most certain it is that not long after the Romans left this land, which was about the Year of our Lord 476, when that ancient Garianonum which was at Burgh Castle as afores* was decayed, and there was no Garrison along the Coast of NorflF. or Suff. to defend the Shore, Cerdicus, a warlike Saxon, with Henricus c^aic"^" c 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 12 JHansijtp's l^tstors of his Son, came out of Germany, and about the Year of our Lord 495 (which to this present year 1619 is 1124 years past) landed at the place where Yermouth is now builded ; w* to be true I do find in Raphael HoUingshed his Chronicle, in the fourth Book of the History of England, fol. 87, who saith, — HoUingshed « gjjat they landed at that place (named of his arrival there) Cerdick Shore, or " Cerdick Sand, now Yarmouth ; where after he had continued in this Country, " then called Iceni, w"^ contained Norff. Suff. Cambridge, and Huntindon, ma- " king sore wars there, by the space of twenty-four years, he sailed into the West " parts of this our Britain, where about the Year of our Lord 519, he erected the " Kingdom of the West Saxons, whose race and line did conquer all the other " Sax. Kings which ruled in this our Britain, and having subdued them, brought " the same into one Monarchy, as by the Chronicle in that behalf at large doth " plainly appear." But, to return again to Yermouth, from which I have awhile digressed. ^Xii) whereas, not long after that time, the Saxons, instead of the Garianonum before remembered, formed a new town in that moist and waterish Ground, near the West side of the River Jerus, and named it Garmud, which was long after called Little Yermouth, wes? Towns ^nd dividing the same into two Towns and Parishes, viz.— West Town and South Town. But finding the situation thereof to be unhealthful, they betook themselves to build a new Town on the East side of the Jerus, on the said Sand called Cerdick Sand (or shore of Cerdicus his landing there,) which is that Yermouth that now I write of, and there now seated. Many, not knowing the sundry changes that time bringeth forth, will hardly be persuaded it be true that any Yermouth was ever builded on the West side of Yermouth, as before is alleged, considering that not any Towq is now there extant. Disputes 33ut whosoever is acquainted with the Ancient Records of lothingiand Ycrmouth, and with the long continued suit and controversy in the Digitized by Microsoft® dSreat |[artnout!j»— 1619, 13 days of King Henry II., King Richard I., King John, King Henry III., Kings Edward I, and II., until the fifth year of the reign of King Edward III. depending between this Township and the Tenants and Farmers of John, Ralph, and Ranulph, Earls of Chester, Lincoln, and Richmond, John of Britain, John Baliall, father to John Baliall, King of Scots, who married Devirgoil, one of the Coheirs of the said John of Britain ; and of one other John of Britain, the great Earl of Richmond ; who, as HoUingshed saith in his Chronicle, fol. 823, was Nephew unto King Edward III., Lord of the Hundred of Lothingland, (who challenged half the Haven of Yarmouth to belong unto him and his Ancestors, owners of that Hundred) shall find that the Town which was seated on the West-South- West of the Bridge of Yarmouth, and adjoining to the West side of the Causeway which leadeth from Yermouth to South Town and so to Gorleston (the ruins whereof do yet remain there to be seen) was in those days called Little Yarmouth, without any other addition of West-Town or South-Town unto it. jfox the further and better confirmation of which my assertion, the very return of the Writ of Ninth of Edward the Second, in page 8 of this book before mentioned, that there was not any Town in that Tract, either West-Town or South-Town, but only little Yermouth and Gorleston ; for, if there had been any so named, it should not have been omitted in the return aforesaid. Which Little Yarmouth did extend itself unto Gorleston aforesaid. For certain it 'is that the Town which was called South Town, was so named but to distinguish the two Towns of Yarmouth, which were on the West End of the Bridge of G* Yermouth and Causeway leading from Yermouth to Gorlestone, as under ; and, by the Stat- tute of Anno 31 K. Edward III., it is prohibited that none sell *■ Herring not Herring in any place about the Haven of Yerm", by Seven to.ij^s. sow Lewks, except in the three Towns of Yerm", that is to say East seven lewks of Yaimouth Digitized by Microsoft© 14 Jlansfjip's l^tstors of Town, which is our Great Yarmouth ; West Town, which is now wholly decayed; and South Town, or Little Yermouth, term it which you will ; which, as I am by M"" Childe, Minister of the word of God there, informed, was about the Year of our Lord 1 534, and in the Twenty-sixth Year of the Reign of King Henry VIIL, now Southtown *' to & ^ ' united with §2 Years past, united to Gorlestone: whereunto those of South Gorleston ^ ^ Town, alias Little Yarmouth, do resort to hear divine Service. For, if there had been any such Towns in that County of Suffolk, no doubt the Sheriffs (having such a strict Commandment) never durst to have omitted the return of the same. ^nlJ now, gentle reader, is just occasion proffered unto me to say somewhat of the great providence of the Almighty who, having by his omnipotent power, of the defluxion of Tides, and the retiring of the Sea, made that great and spacious Passage, which before Yarmouth was a Town did flow all over between Caster, Gorleston, and Burgh Castle, and so to Reedham, and further toward Norwich to the City aforesaid, then called Venta, now Norwich-Castor, was a convenient entry for the Enemies of this our Britain, especially for the Saxons and Danes, who for many years sore vexed this Kingdom, — -to become ground, whereby both the former strongholds of Castor and Bargh Castle could serve to no use to resist the land- ing of foreign forces. It then pleased his Divine Majesty, for that he would not leave his Coast empty and void of Succour against ItStrtla *'^^ Enemy, for fEst magnus in coslo Jupiter qui inspicit omnia et imperat,) to erect in their stead this Famous Town of Yermouth ; for, according to the old saying, " Omnium rerum vicissitudo est ;" the falling of one to be the uprising of another, wherein Nature doth not gainsay herself concerning her policy : for Physicians hold, that the birth, increase, and augmentation of every thing, is the altera- tion and corruption of another; as one learnedly writeth, — " Nam quod cunq : suis muiatum finihus exit, " Continub hoc Mors est illius quodfuit ante." Digitized by Microsoft® &xtut Ifarmout!),— 1619* 15 Wliatever from his hounds doth changed pass, That streight is Death of that which erst it was. jfOt the Natural body hath its Infancy, its Youthfulness, its confirmed Age, its declining and decrepid Age. So hath each Commonwealth, City, or Town, its beginning, enlarging, puissance, its drooping, its decay, and Downfall. The Philosophers, for the reason of alterations in both the Bodies, direct to their principles of Generation and Corruption, tell us of the imbecility and muta- biUty of Things compounded — of the difficulties, persisting in per- fectness — of the easy declining into the course of their fore-framed Connection, and affecting causes. The Astronomers have also alike fitted them, both with certain Climatical changes, appointed Periods and fatal Revolutions : Yea, they teach us that the Influence of superior Planets, do forceably (as in and over private Persons,) as also over regions and kingdoms, changing and inverting them at their pleasures. For my part, I will yield unto the Philosophers their Consequency and dependency of Causes, touching the many variable Events in both bodies ; yet with this provision, that the first Cause combining and causing all causes, which is God himself, be not forgotten, who alone hath all life and death. Beginning and ending, at his good pleasure. Neither will I stick with the Astron- omers to Acknowledge their stinted times and prefixed times, beyond the which neither of the said Bodies can pass or prolong themselves one instant. For, according to the saying of the Preacher, Eccles. gd^ V. 1*', " To all things there is an appointed Time, to every pur- pose under the Heaven : a time to be born, and a time to die." But to attribute that to the Stars which our God (that holdeth all the Stars in his hand) challengeth to himself and to his own fore-decreeing Council, (for, as our Saviour saith. Acts 1*', v. 7, " It is not for you to know the Times or Seasons, which the Father hath put in Ms own Power ") were to refuse the Sun, and to be Digitized by Microsoft® 16 JHatXiSljip's f^tstorg of guided by a Star Light. For he it is doubtless, that raiseth and strengtheneth some mightier (like to superior Planets) to subdue the worthless, whom he hath refused : and his inclining of Hearts is the right powerful Influence which efFecteth those greater Changes (according to which Seneca saith) " that nothing hath continued in the same place wherein it had first the beginning." There is a daily stirring and moving to and fro of all Things under Heaven. Some change or other there is in every day, in so great a Revo- lution of this world, — new foundations of Cities are laid, new names of Nations spring up, whereas the old are grown out of use, or altered by the coming in of a mightier. ■Sj&tS Yermouth, I say, hath that Mighty God erected to be, and as it were to supply the office of, a new Garianonum, to defend the whole Country adjoining from hostile invasion, which (praised be God) it hath as well effectively as preventatively, ever since the first foundation, very worthily performed, as hereafter, when I shall write of the worthy Services performed by it, shall be more particularly and largely declared unto you. For which cause it may rightly sing the Triple Song appointed by the Spartans, in inciting their people to courageous attempts for their country. The old men first begin to sing " Nos quondam eramus inclyti bello viri." Then followed the young Men, " Nos ii sumus, fac, si velis, periculum." Lastly, came the Children also merrily chanting, "Nos fortitudine plurimum prastabimus." For most certain it is, that, after the Romans left this Land, it then stood most in need of Succour • for then all the barbarous Nations to the Northward, every way, made foul havock of this our Continent ; whereby they were driven to greater extremities than in all the Times forepassed. Horace. " Cautus enim metuitfoveam lupus, accipiterque Lib. I, E. 16 " Suspeetos laqneos, et opertum milvius hamum," Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat farmoutfj.— 16t9* 17 And therefore did choose them Leaders, of whom Lucan saith excellently well, " — Cogit tantos tolerare labores, " Summa ducis virtus, qui nuddfusus arend " Exuebat atque omnifortunam provooat hord." whose proper office was " Primus inire manum, postremus ponere mariem." These Men, I say, w* were so chosen, were called in Latin in old Ruiers of time, sometimes " Custodes seu propositi" and otherwhiles " Eor- ledermanni," and as Ammianus saith, " Comites maritimi tractus ;" and since. Counts or Earls of the maritime counties, whose proper office it was to repress the depredations of the Saxons who grievously infested Britain, which caused them to build strong Towns, forts, and holds, to defend the Country, accordingly, as Ovid, in de Arte Amandi, adviseth. " Cum mora non tuta est, totis incumlere Remis " Utile, et assidue suhdere Calear Equo." lest, as Tibullus (Lib. 1, Eleg. 6,) saith "Ne pigeat Ifagnopost didicisse malo." jpor now, about the Year of our Lord 412, was the Roman Empire in Britany come to her full period, to wit the 466th after Julius Caesar's first Entry into this Kingdom (for he arrived here in The Romans •' . . leave Britain or about fifty-four years before the Birth of our Saviour) they, (viz- the Romans) were driven to withdraw their Forces from hence into France, for defence thereof, lest, whilst they should have laboured to hold both France and Britain under their subjection, they should have lost the Dominion of either : for the Poet well saith, " Potentia longa est" and again," Mitlo quod certum est et inevitabile fatum." 0"^Met. Whereupon the distressed Britains sent their missive Letters unto ^lius, or as some write iEgilius, a powerful man in the Roman D Digitized by Microsoft® 18 MmsW^ Historic of '^oiluti"' State in this Time," To ^lius, thrice Consul, the Groans of Britains, aid of the Komans " The Barbarians to sea us drive ; " And Sea to them does us retrieve. " Thus two deaths do to us hefall, " Our throats he cut, or drowned all'' Not much unlike to the estate of the Venetians, somewhat after that time, who being by the Moors much overmatched, were by their furious Enemies at a battle before Crotona either slain in the Fight, or drowned in the Sea : as in the Histoi'y of Venice, folio 35, more at large appeareth. Wherefore just cause had they to sing the wofuU ditty of Ovid, in 2 Met., " Aspera crescit Hiems, omnique a parte feroces " Bella gerunt Venti,fretaque indignantia miscent." — ■ and that, in his book De Trisfibus, Eieg. ii. 1 " Dii Maris ei Cceli, (quid enim nisi Vota supersunt ?) " Parcite quassatce solvere membra Satis." but, above all, to pray as Virgil in his ^neid adviseth ^n. ii. 689 " Jupiter omnipotens, precibus siflecteris ullis, " Aspice nos, hoc tantHm : et si pietate meremur, " Da deinde Auxilium, 2'>ater, atque hcec omina Jirma'' But they (I mean the Romans) leaving them destitute of succour, they were enforced to seek a protection, nay rather a destruction, from the fierce Saxons, to repress the Northern Nations; than which was never a more pernicious perilous practice, as lamentable experience manifestly afterwards approved; for at length these Saxons overcame, subdued, and became Governors of the whole Kingdom, and, until the Normans conquered the same, they swayed the Sceptre thereof. 23ut now, whilst I desire brevity, I become long, by these my digressions, which may distaste you, I will now return to the Scite or seat of Yarmouth aforesaid, with the Antiquity of the same. Tiie Saxons overcome Britain Digitized by Microsoft® (Bmt larmoutt— 1619. 19 wherein I have for many years, with a firm settled study, with my whole heart desired, with all sincerity to Antiquity, in this my pain- TheAuthor-s ful delight or delightsome Painfulness, to write the Truth so near wr"i™g this as I am ahle, and by probable Conjecture have seriously collected, '^'^'""^ out of such Chronicles, Charts, Records, old Pamphlets and writings, as have come to my view, and which in anywise might enlighten my understanding in the truth thereof, wherein T do not assume to myself so much knowledge as desire of knowledge. The matter itself being very laborious, and of no less difficulty, what pains I have therein taken, as no man thinketh, so no man believeth, but he that hath of the like made trial. Nevertheless by how much the difficulty discouraged me, by so much the more the desire I have truly to advance the renown of my native Township, hath encour- aged me to perform it. And as he that seeketh Flowers in a wide Field and findeth some, is worthy of Commendation, so is it no great imputation if he findeth not all which are there to be had : neither is it to me any great disparagement if others shall after me find more Plenty. jptrSt, therefore it appeareth, as formerly I have touched out of HoUingshead (12th page of this book) that about the Year of our Lord 495, (which, to this Year 1619, is 1124 Years past) about nineteen Years after the Romans, this Kingdom was subject to all Landing of invaders, Cerdicus the warlike Saxon of whom I have already made mention, and Henricus his Son, landed at the Sand wherein this our Yarmouth is now builded, whereof it was long after called Yarmouth • called Cerdic Cerdick Shore, or Cerdick Sand, and that he continued in this shore Country about twenty-four Years before he sailed into the West Part. In which time, our Nation being in great extremity, was enforced to build them strong Towers, Forts, and Holds to defend the Country as aforesaid. When amongst others this Town of G' Yarmouth (as a place most meet to withstand the landing of Foreign D 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 20 JHansfjip's f^tstorg of Forces, wherewith especially this very Coast of Norfolk or East England was in those days greatly annoyed,) was founded, erected, and builded. And albeit, I have not yet found the certain time when this our Yarmouth began first to be built and inhabited, for I am of opinion that few Cities or Towns in England do know their first foundation, considering they grew by little and little to their greatness, and as a Child after conception stayeth a good space in the womb of the Mother before deliverance, and afterwards by little and little groweth, yet many years liveth before he attaineth Manhood ; and as it is long before an Acorn becometh an able Oak, so in like manner (but by infinite degree of time beyond the other) is it a time of long continuance before a Sand in the Sea (as was this) is made firm Land, first to build on, next to inhabit, and after that to become a Township. And like as it is well known that the Origin of first original of most Towns is so obscure, by reason of their Anti- Towns ... . . obscure quities, as things which are seen afar off which cannot be well discovered by the Eye ; like as the reaches, confluents, and outlets of great rivers are well known, yet their first heads and fountains lie commonly unknown ; so fareth it for knowing the very instant of time when the first stone was laid for the building of Yarmouth. Yet have I, as much as in me lieth, traced out the original thereof, as the History following will manifest unto you. But whensoever it was built, the flourishing Estate thereof hath given good Proof that it was in a happy Time for Life and long continuance, comfort and consolation, of all that trade into this part of the Kingdom. But now to proceed to the original thereof. '^i\e year of the arrival and time of the abode of Cerdicus with his Army, I have already set down, in which time of his, with his whole Army, he stayed here twenty-four years, with such a resort of people as daily repaired unto him, it was convenient that prepar- ation should be made here for their Entertainment. So that of Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat f armout!j.— 1619. 21 these concourses of people, first a landing there, then a Residence, after that an habitation, began in this place ; and so by little and little the people increased so fast, that by the general survey in the Yarmouth days of Edward the Confessor, who began to reign in the year of BurgeJs'e"''' our Lord 1042, it appeareth that this Town was then well peopled, conf.' and had seventy Burgesses at that time flourishing in it, as by the said Book formerly mentioned, called Dooms-day Book, or the Notitia of England, remaining in his Majesty's Excheq"" appeareth ; and which, by an old exemplification extracted out of it, written in Ancient ... Document the Saxon Character, which I have seen and read, remainma; m the i" ""^ Town ' _ _ 3 O Hutch Town Chest or Hutch in the Vestry, is confirmed unto me ; so that by probable conjecture this Town could not be less than three or four hundred Years a-gathering, in growing and attaining to that Perfection which then, and now at this present (praised be God,) it doth; and while the Sun and Moon endureth, I beseech his Divine Majesty it may enjoy for evermore. Amen. ^nl) then also it was called a Burgh, from the Saxon word Surgh'' hurg. And Burghs were then, as Littleton saith. Lib. 2'', ch. lO***, the most ancient Towns of this Kingdom. And as that Rev* S"^ Edw* Cooke, late Lord Chief Justice of his Majesty's Bench, in the preface of his 9*^ book of reports, saith, "that those Towns which were and be called Burghs, be the most ancient Towns of England, Burghs the .ipirf"i 9* T /.I most ancient and were long time before the Conquest ; " nay, divers ot the most ancient Burghs that yet send Burgesses to the Parliament (saith he) flourished before the Conquest, and have been of little or no account to have any such privilege granted to them at any time since. And that he could yet never find that any of them, or any other the ancient Burghs, were, since the Conquest, endowed with that privilege, viz., of sending Burgesses to the Parliament, and therefore consequently before. ^ISO, by a Charter granted, in the days of the said Confessor to the Barons of the five Ports, it appeareth that the use of Denn Digitized by Microsoft® 22 M-^nsW^ llistorg of Yarmouth ail Ancient Burgh nen and and Strond to dry their nets, is reserved to them at this Burgh of Strond J ^ o ci'nqueVorts Yarmouth aforesaid, which could not then have been, if Yarmouth then had not been a Town in existence. Also our late dread Sove- reign of famous memory, Elizabeth, by her Charter granted to Yarmouth, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of May, in the first year of her reign, intituleth Yarmouth to be, amongst others, one of the ancient Towns of her Kingdom. ^ixlj his most excellent Majesty our dread Sovereign, King James, in his Charter to Yarmouth, bearing date the Twenty-second day of July, in the Sixth year of his reign of England, &c., and of Scotland the Forty-first, termeth it an ancient Burgh, and of great strength to resist his enemies and defend the Country adjoining. ILaStlg, and above all, the very name of Garmud being derived from the Saxonick speech, doth mainly approve the Antiquity thereof; whereby it is most manifest that as well he who inserted into the Tables hanging in the Common Hall, that this Town of Yarmouth, in the days of Canutus, was a sand in the Sea, and did begin to be dry Land Anno 1040 till 1090, as also the writer of a Parchment Book, which I have also perused, containing the originality or antiquity of Yarmouth, who, in folio sexto of the same, affirmeth, that in Edward the Confessor's time the same began to grow into sight at low water, and that in the days of K. Harold and William the Conqueror, the same grew to be dry, and not overflown, and that they then began to build Tents, and Fishermen did then begin to repair thither about Killing of Herring, was little less than 400 years deceived in computation, which is no small injury done to the Antiquity of this Town of Yarmouth, which by the manifest proofs and circumstances before remembered, is sufficiently proved to be one of the ancient Burghs of this Kingdom. ^0 now by pregnant probabiUties, it is in my opinion very clear, that from the landing of Cerdicus in Anno 495, now 1124 Ancient Table Ancient Parchment Book. See Palmer's Digitized by Microsoft® &xm latmotttfj.— 1619, 23 years past, the sand by defluxion of Tides, did " Caput ecetultt undis" by little and little lift his head above waters, and in so short time after sundry Fishermen, as well of this kingdom, viz.. Fishermen the five Ports (being then the principal Fishermen of England) as "^°" also of France, Flanders, and the low Countries, yearly about the Feast of Saint Michael the Archangel, resorted thither, where they continued in Tents made for the purpose, by the space of forty days, about the killing, trimming, salting, and selling of Herrings to all that thither came for that purpose. Whereunto did resort Merchants ^ come to buy the Merchants of London, Norwich, and other places, to buy Her- Herrings rings during that season, and then departed, as those Fishermen which kill Fish at Ward-house do use to do at this present. And as we see in Sciences and Arts, as in Grammar, which taketh be- ginning from Letters — Geometry, from the Points — Arithmetick, from the Unit — Music, from the Minim and Semibreve — and also in things natural, as Plants and Trees, which rise and increase out of • a very small seed, — so, in short time after, as that sand became firm Land, and that thereby Traffick became more and more to be in- creased. Men finding the same to be a commodious place to dwell and inhabit in, did for that purpose gather themselves together, to have a continual Residence therein. And like as in the beginning of the World, the gathering together and society of men began not for one cause only, as for that they might be rich, or for that they might be helpful one to another, which be to many reasons and motives ; but also for that they might in all things live the more commodiously together, and frame to themselves a Commonwealth, , ° 1 1 i. 1 -L Definition of which IS by the Learned denned to be, — common- •' -wealths " 3&erum et vitce quoedam eommunitas unius societatis, quts ejfkit unum quoddam, " corpus civile, explurihus et diversis membria compositvm, sub un& potestate " supremd, veluti svh uno capite, et uno spiritu, ad bene et commodius vivendum, in " hac mortali vita, utguefaeilius ad ceternum perveniatur." Digitized by Microsoft® 24 ilHansfiip's f^tstorg of Anno 1619, Twelve Hundred Household- ers Which is thus in English, — " i[ Commonwealth is a certain Community of Society, both of life and goods, " which maketh a civil body, formed and made of divers members, to live under " one power, as it were under one Head and Spirit, the more profitably to live " together in this mortal life, that they may the more easily attain unto Life " eternal for ever." As one well saith, — " Conarrflatt sunt homines propter acquirenda qucedam necessaria, vicissitudin- " aria, communicatione inter se ; nam bene vivere volentibus plura exiguntur, qute " tamen personce illius ordinis procurare omnia non possunt atque si ordines diver si, " seu qfficiorum communieationes multiplices pro eonservatione vitcefactcB nihil aliud "sunt, quam pluralitas et distraetio partium eivitatis." Whereupon they built themselves several dwellings j whereof first did arise houses, then streets, then hamlets, after towns, then cities and kingdoms ; whereby their bodies might be preserved in health, and their goods in safety. So did those Merchants, Fishermen, and other Tradesmen who have their dependency of them, in like manner begin there to build houses, of which came streets, and of those streets this flourishing Township, than which I mean of fair and well built Towns and Cities, there cannot be any thing more worthy or better beseeming an excellent Prince, or well governed Commonwealth, or more honorable or profitable to a kingdom, than the frontiers of it to be beautified with fair and formal buildings, as Yarmouth (praised be God) is at this' present. But to proceed. ^tnce which time it hath pleased our good God, of a small beginning, to increase it at this present to the number of not so few as twelve hundred Householders; of which Town may be said full truly, " Vires acquirit eundo." The further that she goeth, The more in strength site grmveth. And that, — Where traffich doth abound, God blessing it withall, Such Towns will soon increase, Though erst they were but small. Digitized by Microsoft® &xmt farmoutfj.— 1619. ^5 Insomuch, as I may say of this Town as Cardinal Caspar, in his book, intituled " The Commonwealth and Government of Venice," saith of that City, — that the situation of this Town is rather to be attributed to some Divine Providence, than to any human industry, and, beyond the belief of those who have not seen it, not only most safe and sure both by Land and Sea from all violence, but also in the highest degree opportune and commodious to the abundance of all things behooffuU to the Inhabitants, as also for traffick of all sorts of Merchandizes with any the maritime Towns of this King- dom. ^S touching the natural scite or seat of that Town, it hath Yarmomh' pleased God, of a sand or shelve of the Sea, to make it firm Land, more than three miles in length from North tooouth, situated be- tween two salt floods, viz., the main Sea on the East, which about a mile and a half distant from the Town maketh incursion in the South end of the same — and the Haven encloseth the West side TheHartoup thereof, making a very good harbour for Ships, wherein they do ride afloat, both flood and ebb, at the Quays, as not the like in any place in England. Atjlood and ebb, all times I say, Both lade and light full well they may : A benefit which is not small, A blessing great we may it call. The situation of the Town itself is very eminent, and hath a goodly and pleasant prospect towards the Sea, for between it and that is not any hill at all, but only a very plain, more than two miles, and a half in length, of competency sufiicient to darreign a battle of two hundred thousand fighting men, and both for profit and plea- sure meet accordingly. It fiirther enjoyeth these four things, which the Philosopher adviseth every well-founded Town or City should possess, — a wholesome air, fitness for war, meetness for trafiick. Digitized by Microsoft® 26 MsnsW's f^tstorg of ings Chuiclua and waters convenient ; the first and last of which, do concern the Town itself, the second, enemies, and the third, the common good of all the dwellers therein. But, minding, by God's assist- ance, of these four things to write more at large in place more The Build- convenient, I will here begin to say somewhat of the buildings of that Township. ^11 things in Cities or Towns are either divine or human, viz., either to the worship of Almighty God and of holy uses, or else, unto public worldly respects or private men's occasions. In those buildings dedicated to divine worship, or holy uses, as Churches, Chapels, or other Oratories, there is not any private person hath any interest in them, yet is every one to take care of them, but especially, next under his Majesty, the Rev* Bishops, Ministers, and Clergy. ®OUCStng buildings to human uses, the same be of two sorts, either publick or private ; publick, as the walls of a city or town, common halls, and such like, wherein as in the former^ not any particular person hath any interest, right, or title in them, yet is every one, notwithstanding, to take care over them and for them, for that they be also in a sort dedicated to divine uses. And as to private buildings I need speak the less of them, for that they be many times more respected than is meet, and far above the two former; yet cannot these private edifices have any long continuance without them. I will, therefore, as becometh, begin with those which have been built for the worship of the Almighty, and of them first and principally with that goodly monument, I mean the church, which Chrysostom calleth " locus medicince spiritualis." And yet, a little before I begin to speak of that church in particular, I will say somewhat of the original of material and ministerial churches in general. Frimitive ^Ifijtt, from the beginning of the world to the days of Solomon, there was not any ministerial church built upon the face of the whole Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutfj.— 1619, 27 earth, for, from Adam to Moses there was not any ; and in Moses his time there was but only a Tabernacle, w'='^ was instead of a church, for all the Children of Israel, which was with great pain and labour carried up and down, which not a little grieved the heart of good King David ; and which caused him to find fault with himself that he should dwell in a house of Cedar trees, and that the Ark of God sh^ remain in curtains. Therefore, was he minded to have built a a house in the name of the Lord God of Israel, but, being forbidden of God, because he was a man of blood, he did in his lifetime set apart an infinite mass of treasure to Solomon his son, for|the building thereof: and although heaven be the Lord's throne, and the earth his footstool, and that he dwelleth not in temples made with hands, yet did it please his Divine Majesty, according to the prayer of Solomon (after he had builded a temple to the Most High,) to be present there, and to hear the prayer of them that called upon him even as he was in the tabernacle before the temple was builded. So that until the Apostles' time there was no other church for God's people thro' the whole world, but that only at Jerusalem. Yet do I read that synagogues the Jews had both in Jerusalem (where are synagogues said to have been four hun* and eighty,) and in all the cities of Judea, and among the Gentiles where the Jews were dispersed. When they first began to be built is uncertain. — Cornelius Ber think- eth that the forty-eight cities of the Levites had their fit places for assemblies, whence synagogues had their beginnings: Sigonius conjectures that their Babylonish exile ministered occasion unto them, to help themselves with these houses of prayer and instruction. The word synagogue, is taken both for the assemblies whether in this place or out of it, and for the place itself, having a civil as well as a religious use ; and these synagogues they have in the place of their dispersion unto this day. The order they observed in their Bjnagpgues was this: they disputed and preached sitting; the £ 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 28 JHansfjip's litstors of elders sat in chairs which were set in order, (of which Christ saitb, " they love the chief seats in the synagogues") those of meaner sort in seats, and the meanest of them all upon the floor on matts. The synagogue was governed by the Scribes and the chief of them, called Arch synagogues, resembling the high-priests and the inferior priests of the temple. chrisuans ^^^ after that the gospel began to be preached, and the tyranny of the Roman Emperors and other princes began to abate> then did the holy Fathers of the primitive church begin to devise good orders for the propagation and godly progress of the holy gospel ; and although it was well known that it was, and is yet, law- ful for all men privately at home to read the Holy Scriptures, and by instruction to edify one another in the true religion, yet, that the word of God might be with more edification preached to the people — and prayers and supplication publicly made — and that the Sacrament might be lawfully ministered — that collection might be made for the poor, and to defray all necessary charges of the Con* gregation and to supply the wants, it was thought needful that there should be holy meetings and ecclesiastical assemblies, therefore, Dionisius, the Bishop of Rome, (I speak before bad bishops had got footing there,) who began his rule anno Dom. 268, but Platina ?aith anno 260, which may be but a mis-impression of the printer, was the first that ever I read of that devised Parish Churches, and divided every bishoprick into particular congregations, and com-« manded that ministerial churches should be erected. And that about the year of our Lord 636, Honorius, Archbishop of Canter- bury, as saith the History of Canterbury, reported by M"" Camden feund'ed'''"^'^ ^^^ ^'^^"'^'^^"'> (fol- 160,) made the first division of parishes in this Kingdom. Lucius the Pope, in Gratian, insinuateth thus much,— that the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the Christians followed the example of the Roman Magistrates, and that Archbishops had Digitized by Microsoft® ©teat ^armoutli,— 1619. 25 their seats in those cities wherein the Roman Presidents in times past, made their abode long before the coming of Christ, and unto whom the Gentiles appealed in matters of the greatest importance ; and in those very cities, after Christ his coming, the Apostles and their successors placed Patriarchs or Primates, to whom the affairs of the bishops and great causes ought to be referred. ^nU here, gentle reader, pardon me, if for the love I bear to ch?fstiliiity the christian religion, the honour of this kingdom, and to further '" thee with knowledge, I do enlarge my pen to say something of the original and the propagation of the Gospel of Jesus Christ within this island — a thing worthy noting : wherein if I shall not satisfy all doubts, hold me excused, for that sundry opinions even amongst the learned have been holden touching this matter. Yet have I been careful, according to the capacity of my weak knowledge, to find out the most authentick writers w"'' have treated upon this sub- ject, which, for that my purpose is not to dilate at large, therefore-, I will only follow that contraction W^ the learned M'^ Will" Camden, in his Britannia, (fol. 67,) hath delivered unto us. At that time, saith he, when the thick mists of superstition were scattered, (when Elutherius, Bishop of Rome, who was consecrated bishop in the year of our salvation, 178,) the heavenly light of the gospel, by the means of King Lucius shone upon this island ; who, admiring the integrity and holy lives of the christians, made petition unto the said Elutherius, by means of two British bishops, that both himself and subjects might be instructed in the christian religion. Where- upon, this godly man sent unto him two holy men, with letters, (which at this day be extant) w^ho did instruct them accordingly.' Tertullian, who wrote much about that time, saith, " those places' amongst the Britains w"'' yielded to the Romans no success, are now subdued unto Christ." But our ecclesiastical writers, who have employed both time and diligence in this point, do endeavour Digitized by Microsoft® 30 MmsW^ mistorg of to prove, out of ancient authors of credit, that before this time, in the very infancy of the church, our land had received the christian rehgion ; and, namely, that Joseph of Aremathea, a noble Senator, sailed out of Gaul into Britain ; being, as some write, sent over by Philip, the Apostle of the Gauls, for to preach Christ: for this much both the ancient records and monuments of this Monastery of Glastenbury, in Somersetshire, do testify, and also Patrick, the Irish Apostle, who lived there a monk thirty years, in an Epistle of his hath left to memory. Whereupon this place was by our ances- tors named the first land of God — the first land of Saints in England — the beginning and fountain of all religion in England — the tomb of Saints — the mother of Saints — the church founded and built by the Lord's disciples. Neither is there any cause that we should doubt thereof, for it is said that Claudia Ruina, the wife of Aulus Pudence, (which woman, as it is credibly thought, S* Paul nameth in his latter Epistle to Timothy) was a Britain born. I pass over what I read of Aristobulus, whom Paul mentioneth, was made Bishop of Britain. It is with no less authority witnessed that Saint Peter came hither ; and that S' Paul after his second imprisonment visited this country. Origen, upon Ezekiel, Chap. 4, afiirmeth how the Britains with one consent received the faith of Christ. Chrysos- tom doth the like in a sermon upon the Pentecost ; and Hierome affirmeth no less in his epitaph upon Marcella; besides many other, which that godly father, John Jewel, sometime Bishop of Salisbury, in the epistle of his book (that apology against Harding) directed unto our late Queen Elizabeth, doth here set down unto us; which cannot but greatly revive the hearts of all true christians, especially of us, their successors in this kingdom, that it pleased the Lord in his great mercy and love, soon after his ascension, to send the light of his holy gospel amongst us (which were then heathen and knew him not,) whereby we might come to the knowledge of his Digitized by Microsoft® ®reat larmoutfj.— 1619. 31 blessed will, and knowing it, might labour to practise the same in our lives and conversations in this life, that after the same be ended, we might reign with him in heaven eternally, and by the merits of his only Son, our Lord and Saviour, — which the Lord vouchsafe unto us, for his great mercy's sake. Amen. ^nlJ now to proceed where I left. AUvred, sometime king of |^^"|'^J^^4j^^ the land, about the year of our Lord God 895, divided this kingdom t^™^*','^': into Shires, Hundreds, and Towns. But, that learned, worthy, and Rev* Judge, S"^ Edw* Cooke, knight, late Lord Chief Justice of His Majesty's Bench, in the preface of his 9th Book of Reports, (which I have formerly mentioned,) saith, that division of Shires was long before, but, by means of the Heptarchy, or seven kingdoms, in England, one encroached upon another, which afterwards AUvred did reduce into order, and thereof made true division. ^nlJ afterward William the Conqueror, by a Synod holden in the year of our Lord 1075, which was in the eighth year of his reign, (yet Polydore and others write that this should be done about the twelfth year of his reign) caused all the Bishops of England to make their habitations in great cities, and that they should not remain any longer in small villages or obscure places, as heretofore they had done. Therefore it was by Lanfranchi, Arch- bishop of Canterbury, decreed in a Synod as followeth, viz.: — " ©Jtrrtunt est quod aliquce Scedes Episcopales quee in OpiduUs 8( Pagis anlea "fuerunt, in Urhibus et Loeis cehherrimis ooUocarenter unde factum est ut Balh- " onia, Lincolnia, Sarisburia, JSxonia, Cestira et Cecestria, urhes hujus modi novce " Episcoporum Domiciliis sunt nohilitatce." It was decreed that certain Bishops' seats, which were situated in small Towns and Villages, should be placed in Cities and places more eminent ; whereof it came to pass that Bath, Lincoln, Salis- bury, Exon, Chester and Chichester, were dignified with the seats Episcopal : amongst which also the Bishop's seat from Thetford to Digitized by Microsoft® 32 MtinsW^ l^istor^ ot Losinga, Bishop of Norwich Builds a Chapel at Yarmouth The Barons of Cinque Ports expel the Priest Norwich was removed, and there most magnificently rebuilded. Whereupon Ralphus Stob, who lived ab* that time, writeth, that in those days there was such a devout and religious emulation amongst Princes, that every one strove and vied to erect new cathedral churches, and to ordain new ministers, to cast out the old ragged habiliments, and to put on the new robes of new-built churches and ministers; which to be true I am the easier persuaded to believe, for that in the year of our Lord 1094, which was in the seventh year of William Rufus, the second son of the Conqueror, there was built by Herbert, surnamed Robert Losinga, as some write Leasinge, then Bishop of Norwich (who obtained it by simony, for which he paid full dearly to Pope Pascal, then being) who before that was Abbot of Ramsey, and came over with the Conqueror, and removed the Bishop's seat from Tbetford to Norwich, and builded the Cathedral Church of that See, which afterwards, anno 1101, and in the first year of King Henry I., was by him confirmed ; and afterward did build a certain small chapel in the Dean or Down of Yarmouth, then being sand, about half a mile northward from the place where the great church now standeth, upon the hill there commonly called Green Hill (the ruins thereof do there yet appear to be seen) to pray for the health and prosperous success of the Fishermen that came to fish at Yarmouth, in the time of the Herring season, placing a Godly minister to say Divine service^ therein. But the very next year after the same was finished, the Barons of the five ports coming thither, as usually they did, to fish there, they being then (as hath been before declared) the principal fishermen of England, did bring their Priest with them, who did remove, expel, and evil entreat the Bishop's Priest, there formerly placed; whereof the Bishop having knowledge, made complaint thereof to the King then being, who overruled both parties, and restored the Bishop's Priest unto his place again. Whereupon the Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat Karmoutfj.— 1619, 33 said Bishop shortly viz., twenty-two years after, w'^'' was about the year of our Lord 1123, which was in the twenty-third year of Henry I., did begin to erect and build a most beautiful, large, spa- cious, and lightsome Church, not much inferior to many Cathedrals in this kingdom, naming it S* Nicholas ; having a goodly spire steeple, which at the great costs and charges of that Township, hath been, and to this day is, maintained and supported in as good sort as the same was at the first beginning and building thereof: which Church fas saith our old chronicle) was 127 years after more en- Eniarsea *■ ^ ■' and Dedica- larged, decked, and beautified ; and in the next year following, '«i which was anno 1251, had holy dedication. ©I^e model or plan of the building thereof is framed in this wise: pian of the it containeth towards the East three chancels, the middle whereof "' '"* extendeth itself more than the others the space of twenty feet to the East, which maketh the form of the other two to be as the letter Tau. In the East side of which middle chancel was situate, in times past, the Altar ; and over it the Rood-loft, which, by Roger, aoo^-tott the Prior of Haddiscoe, in the year of our Lord 1370, (which was in the forty-fourth year of Edward IIL,) at his only costs and charges was very richly builded and furnished : for in the old Chro- nographical Table before mentioned, it is termed " opus prcstiomm circa magnum altare" the costly or precious work about the high altar. Who, also, within ten years following, builded in the east end of the church aforesaid, a chapel, and dedicated it to the Lady ^'^^.^^J^?/ of A.rneburgh, which in my father's days, in anno 1545, in the '^'^"^''^ thirty-sixth year of King Henry "VIII., was standing, but now wholly ruinated and defaced; and next unto it, in the chancel aforesaid, on the north side thereof, was placed a fair pair of organs and organs : and, towards the west of them the choir, long since furnished with eight Priests and a competent number of singing men accordingly. Digitized by Microsoft® 34 JIans|){p's! Ilistor^ of Places for Jfjx the chancel, on the southward, were placed the Bailiffs and the Corpora- tion their brethren, then called four-and-twcnty, and now by the charter of King James, Aldermen ; yet doth it to this day retain the name of the Four-and-twenties' Chancel. And, on the north side of the said middle chancel, were those, which then were Eight-and-forties (now Common Councilmen) placed, hereupon it is to this day called the Eight-and-forties' chancel. To both which Companies did one Minister read both the chapters of the Old and New Testament, with an audible voice and very distinctly, whilst another Minister did the like to the residue in the body of the church assembled. And at the time of the Litany, the whole number of the said Four- and-Twenties and Eight-and-forties repaired in like manner into the body of the church, in the middle aisle^ there humbly kneeling and devoutly praying till the same was ended. Then did the said four-and-twenties according to an Act of Assembly made in the year of our Lord God 1572, in the fourteenth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, John Grosse arid Thomas Smyth, bailiffs, go to buiit"""^ their places in a gallery, built on the south side of the church for that purpose ; the one half ascending at the east, the other at the west, the Bailiffs sitting in the midst among them ; so did in like manner the Chamberlains, amongst the eight-and-forty. But long since the seats of either of them be changed, and both the Bailiffs in the one, and the Chamberlains in the other, be very comely and magnificently placed at the east end, above the residue; every Fine for of the othcr to take his place according to the seniority of his i"8 election, upon pain of four-pence paying for every day defaulting. But whither am I transported ? From describing the form of the first material building of the church aforesaid, unto the manner of the reading, preaching, and hearing of the holy word of God therein used ! I confess my error, and will, therefore, return to go for- ward with that I intended. Digitized by Microsoft® ^reat f armoutlj,— 'X619* 35 ■^bje church contalneth in length, from east to west within Dimensions the walls of the same, over and above the new building at the west cimrch end thereof, the number of 225 feet. The aforesaid chancels do contain in breadth, within the walls, 106 feet. The breadth of the church from the two doors in the cross aisle next unto the said chancel, is from south to north 147 feet; wherein the midst thereof Upon four stately pillars, is erected the goodly Spire Steeple, before spoken of, which from the pavement to the vane pinnacle or weather- cock, is in height 186 feet. The three aisles in the body of the church do contain in breadth, 147 feet. And as touching those then new buildings, which may now well be termed old founda- tions, in the west end of the same, they do contain within the walls in length, 107 feetj and in .breadth, 47 feet, and were begun to be built (as report from one generation to another hath delivered the same,) by the young men or bachelors of that township — where- Aisie*'"'^' upon it was called the Bachelors' Aisle^n the year of our Lord God 1330, (which was in the fourth year of the reign of King Edward III., which is to this year 1619, 289 years past) who in- tended to have finished it accordingly. But, it befel unto them as unto many other human designments, according to the old proverb, "Man purposeth, but God disposeth, according as it seemeth good to His Divine Majesty." For within eighteen years The Town , visited bv after, viz., the year of our Lord 1348, it pleased the Almighty to "^e Pi»sue send such a great mortality within this township, that there died in one year the number of seven thousand inhabitants ; w"'' very near in such wise depopulated -the same, that scarcely the number then living sufficed to bury the dead, much less to proceed in the build- ing formerly intended. Neither was this town so replenished as then it was, in 220 years after : for within these forty years last past, many void grounds be now builded (and the town is more than a fourth part both in the buildings augmented, and in the number F 2 Digitized by Microsoft® iJivine Ser vice anno 1619 36 JHansfjip's Wiistav^ of of inhabitants increased,) which during that time lay waste and in a manner desolate. Order of ^Xlti now to rctum to the orders there used for the hearing the divine worship of the Almighty. If I should write, I cannot express in words the excellency of the method of those great constitutions and orders, ordained for order and comeliness in that church, according to the use of the same observed. Nay, it will and may be marvelled at, yea, and scarcely believed, that so many thousands could be so conveniently contained and seated within so small a compass of hearing, and have place convenient, as in the same 6000 Hearers Congregation be commonly assembled, it consisting at least of six nnrin 1 fil Q ^ thousand communicants : yet so well be the rooms and seats con- trived, that there is space sufficient for every one that will be attentive to hear that which is there delivered. For, first, the bailiffs and aldermen their brethren, to the end that they, as those to whom the rule of the people is committed, may the better behold the demeanour of the whole congregation there assembled, be mounted on a gallery, six feet above the residue, on the south side of the church aforesaid, which doth contain in length from east to west, 50 feet ; whose wives be seated directly before them, in a very neat chapel made for that purpose. In the next rank or class before them, (according to an Act of Assembly in that behalf, made the 13th of February, anno 1572, in the fourteenth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, William Harborne and Ralph Thompson, bailiffs,) in one large and spacious room, which doth contain in length from east to west 65 feet, be those Eight-and-forty which be of the Com- mon Council, placed every one according to his election of incoming, except those eight Constables taken out of that number, who do sit in two several rooms, to be ready by themselves when any sudden accident happeneth ; every one of these enjoying the sight of his own wife, who directly sitteth also before him. Digitized by Microsoft® 6reat ^armoutH).— 1519, 37 ©llErt be also two very stately galleries lately erected, the TwoGaiieries better to further the hearing of the auditory, which will contain more than two hundred and forty persons, which do stand more than 7 feet raised from the pavement, the one in the east, and the other in the west, where men of good sort, and others inferior, according to their years and ability be respected, and by the church- wardens placed accordingly. The gallery at the east end containeth six forms ; the length of the gallery from south to north, containeth 33 feet, and in breadth 18 feet : it was built by the churchwardens, in the year of our Lord God 1596, Ralph Woolhouse and John Harris, bailiffs. The gallery at the west end doth contain seven forms ; the length thereof from north to south is 30 feet, and the breadth is 19 feet, and was built by the churchwardens in the year of our Lord God 1597, John Coldham and Henry Ebbots being bailiffs. And forasmuch as the word of God delivered might be the better heard by the people assembled, there was, in the year of our Lord God 1586, (John Felton and Jeffrey Pougett, bailiffs) a pulpit built at the west end of the aldresses chapel, which is 10 feet mounted from the pavement, where the same is furnished with a learned and godly preacher, who on the sabbaths and holydays doth preach unto the people assembled. Yea, so- great was the care and wise foresight of our ancient fathers in days forepast, least that either the minister preaching or praying, or the people devoutly attending thereunto, should be disturbed in the time of holy exercise, that there were not any mechanical trades, which should make any noise or noisome savours, permitted to inhabit or dwell near unto any churches : but very spacious places were allowed in most places, as well for pre- venting the causes aforesaid, as to bury the dead ; and so, there- fore, is a very spacious and large church-yard proportioned to the church of Yermouth. To which church very lately, the way which leading^to tile Church leadeth from the Market to the Church aforesaid, was paved with p^™^ and Digitized by Microsoft® 38 Mm&Ws 3^ist0t;2 at stone, and railed very comely ; W** before, in the winter season, was foul and dirty. ^ftjr the building of which church, eight other religious Black Friara houscs wcic builded in Yarmouth aforesaid ; viz. — a house of Black Fryars, called the Predicant or Preaching Fryars, situated in the south end of that town, in the reign of King Henry III. first builded, and by another Henry, the eighth of that name, by authority of Parliament, in the twenty-seventh year of his reign, lastly dissolved, and now belonging to sundry persons. In which I do find that one Godfrey Pilgrim, a worthy burgess of this In- corporation (for good benefactors be not to be forgotten,) did in the year of our Lord God 1380, which was in the fourth year of Richard II., at his own proper costs and charges, erect and build a very fair church, therein to say divine service ; which, standing upright at the end of 145 years, which befell anno 1525, which was in the seventeenth year of King Henry VIII., as foreseeing an utter desolation, was wholly consumed with fire, thereby easing a labour to those that within ten years following de- molished the same ; the walls whereof, with the foundations, twenty-five years past were wholly digged up, and disposed to other uses. But since the writing hereof, I find in the great volume or Theatre, collected and imprinted by John Speed, anno 1611, that the same Predicant Fryars, were builded by Godfrey Pilgrim and Thomas Fastolf, which, as by our rolls appears, were Inhabitants of Yarm°, which rejoiced my heart that the same goodly monument was builded by two natives of that incorporation, for so I might rightly term them, for that their names had long continuance in that incorporation. Gtey Friars ®nf othcr of Grey Fryars, commonly called the Minorites, situate in the middle part of that town, now belonging to the said town of Yarmouth, in the days of King Edward, the second of Digitized by Microsoft® Bxmt iarmoutfj.— 1619. 39 tliat name, was builded, and by the foresaid King Henry VIII., in the year aforesaid of dissolution, suppressed ; which, as M' Speed saith in his former Theatre, was built by one S"' William Gerbrigg, who also I find to be one of the incorporation of Yar- mouth, whose commendation we ought not to overpass, but to stir up our minds to maintain his memory to all posterity hereafter, for, as it is said, good men ought to be remembered, especially they whose memory is godly and profitable. ^nlJ, one other of the White Fryars, seated in the north end wMteFriais of the said town — commonly called the Carmelites — built in the days of Edward III, ; but, M"^ Speed, in his said Theatre, saith (for he is my warrant,) that it was built by King Edward II., in anno 1278, which was in the sixth year of his rei^n. But in what time soever these three Friars were built, sure I am, that, by the said King Henry VIII., in the time of the general dissolution they were all at once demolished, and now be inhabited and possessed by sundry private persons ; w"*^ said three Friars were suppressed, as I have said, in the twenty-seventh year of King Henry VIII. And, a Commission being granted to S' William Paston, John Godfall, John Heydon, and Nicholas Mynn, to view all manner of Chaunt- ries and Chapels, Charnels and Hospitals, they did sit in the Guildhall, the 5*'' and 6**" days of April, ministering interrogations to the Bailifi"s, Doctors and Freres, and the Churchwardens, Nich- olas Fenn and John Goodson, touching the premises ; wherein was the full period of their continuance determined. ^ Priory, situate near the Church, belonging to the Dean and Pnory Chapter of Norwich, and now in the occupation of their farmer. ^ Carnary, or Charnel-house, built in the church-yard ofchamei S' Nicholas, which in the year of our Lord 1308, being the second year of Edward II., was fully finished by one Sybilla Flath, a widow of this township, sometime the wife of one William Flath, a Digitized by Microsoft® 40 Jlansfjtp'S ^istox^ of burgess of this incorporation, to contain the bones of the dead there formerly buried, and again cast up, by the making of new graves for the interment of others. Over which she built a proper neat chapel, wherein divine service was, by two priests for that pur- pose by her appointed, solemnly performed ; endowing the same with revenues competent, whereof some being sold, the other be received at this present. For licence of building whereof, she first obtained leave of John, Bishop of Norwich, which in the year of our Lord God 1302, in the thirtieth year of his consecration, he granted unto her. And Clement V. then being Pope, by his spe- cial Bull, bearing date at Bourdeaux, the S"" of October, 1308, did well allow of; all w* King Richard II., the 8*'^ of July, in the SybiUa Fiath fourteenth year of his reign, confirmed. This Sybilla Flath made her last will and testament, the 16"^ of December, 1308 ; and, in the year 1311, (as saith our old Chronicle,) departed this world, of whose life I mind to say somewhat, when I shall write of the good deeds performed by her in Yarmouth — where she deserveth for ever to be remembered. But the same Charnel long since decayed, and was, in the year of our Lord 1588, by the town pulled down to the ground, and the bones therein being were buried under the east wall of the ch* yard of S' Nicholas, in Yarmouth : and the ruins thereof were the uprearing of the lower wall of the Mount or Citadel aforesaid, where the same are now placed, as well to defend the bodies of the living, as the former fabric was to contain the bones of the dead. '^IjtXt was, moreover, one Hospital, newly erected in that place where one formerly was built and then wholly ruined. Wherein were of long time placed eight men and eight women, with a Custos or Guard over them, (who had several good orders prescribed unto them, which in their due place I will express unto you,) with a comely chapel to say Divine Service in, built in the midst, between Charnel House removed A Hospital Digitized by Microsoft© ©reat ^armout!),— 1619. 41 tbe said brothers and sisters. As to which Chapel, for that by a synod or council, holden at Westminster, at the feast of S' Michael the Archangel, by Anselm, then Archbishop of Canterbury, in the year of our Lord 1102, in the third year of the reign of King Henry I., amongst other things therein contained, it was by the 12''' article of that synod, expressly commanded that no new chapel should be built without the consent of the bishop : and in the 13"" article, that no church should be consecrated, except provision were first made to the maintenance of it and of the minister : therefore, the town determining, and having begun, to build the said chapel, did on the second day of May, 1386, in the ninth year ^^ ^^^^ of King Richard II., set down sundry good orders to be used f^^^f^ j°Jg„. therein, and for the government of the said hospital, all which, on Ho%it1ii the eighth day of the same month, were confirmed by two .'several approbations ; the one by Henry, then Bishop of Norwich ; and the other by Alexander, then Prior, and by the Chapter of the Cathedral church of Norwich aforesaid. Yet afterwards, question Disputes TG5D6C tlDfr' arising betwixt the Town and the said Prior, touching the execu- tion of the said orders, the same by indenture passed between the said Prior and Convent of the one party, and the said Bailiffs, Custos, Brethren and Sisters, of the other party, bearing date the 24*'' day of November, 1386, in the tenth year of the said King's reign, confirmed by the aforesaid Henry, the Bishop, under his seal, by public instrument, dated the 20''' day of December then fol- lowing, were conditioned, concluded, and agreed. Which said hospital, the 22°* of September, in the sixteenth year of the said King's reign, was by him granted to W" Oxney and Rob' Howlings; The Hospital and afterwards the bailiffs of Yarm", by their deed bearing date ^^,"^^^^7 the Monday next after S' Michael the Archangel, in the twenty- HbwUngs first year of the said King's reign, the land to them likewise, with aix shillings rent, did give and grant. Which premises the said Digitized by Microsoft® 42 ilansfjtp's Historg of Conveyed to W° and Rob*, to the said Bailiffs and Commonalty, with an hundred the Town ... shillings rent, by their deed dated the fifth day of January in the said year, did re-give and grant for evermore. tie'Hos°p»ai iSobJ, for that it may plainly appear what damage the said and Premises ^.g^^ jjjj^jj sustained for not knowing their right and title therein, I have thought good, for the avoiding the like hereafter, to express the abutting and bounding of the said ground, as in the said deed, passed by the Bailiffs to the said Oxney and Howlings, is expressed, viz.: — by the said deed it appeareth that the said Hospital doth lie between the common of Yarm" south and north, the walls of Yar- mouth east, and the king's highway west, so that it is more than manifest that the same Hospital ground did extend itself from the Pudding Gates on the north, unto the gates commonly called the Market Gates to the south ; as in and by an old parchment book (which, besides the deeds themselves, I have seen) plainly appeareth. Rent paid ^"^ ^^^ further confirmation whereof, I very lately found that Garten i" ^^^ ^H of the eighteenth year of Henry VI., remaining in the vestry, there were received of William Fenn, for the farm of the garden at the Market Gates, six shillings and eightpence ; and in another roll, received of Ralph Lampett for that garden the like rent; and no doubt that the same Is elsewhere In many other rolls to be found. Yet, for that the same was not made known to the Assembly, they have of late passed a grant of the same gar- den to M-^ Will" Smith, late Customer of Yarmouth, which, if the same had been made manifest unto them, they would not have so done for any money. Thus much for the abuttm*^ And now to return where I left. Military ^^^ ^^°^^ ^°^^^ ^^'^^^ "°^ dissolvcd, the same is changed Store-House and used for other purposes, viz. : the lower part of the chapel for a store-house, wherein the artillery and ammunition of the town i» Digitized by Microsoft® (&xtzi lamoutfj,— 1619* 43 kept ; and the upper part thereof for a granary, to lay up such corn against time of scarcity as the forenamed Katherine Rogers did by her last will and testament bequeath unto it. 'STJe south side of that Hospital is used for a house of correc- comcuon tion, which in the year 1598, John Youngs and Rich* Moody, Bailiffs, for that purpose was by that township erected. ^Xlti forasmuch as there can no greater profit arise to the , . The educa- Commonwealth than instruction of youth in good doctrine and t},°"^„,^™"' manners, and that no less care is to be had therein than in any other ** ^'^"^ thing which doth concern the government thereof: for albeit, man by nature is a gentle creature, who, with his happy nature getting good education becometh divinely disposed, but if he lack his education, he becometh the most wicked of all creatures that are born upon earth, as Plato saith, " for men cannot honestly live, or wisely govern, except from their tender age they be brought up in good learning and discipline ;" the reason is, for as that the Almighty saith. Genesis viii. 21, "the imagination of man is evil from his youth" for which cause the minds of youth be com- pared to a white table, wherein, at the first, good or evil may be written ; so, if it be first possessed of evil, it is hardly raced forth, for like as a new vessel will retain the savour of the first liquor that is infused into it, according to that old adage, " Quo semel est imbuta recens servabit odorem testa diu ;" so fareth it with young- lings, if they be not trained up in the knowledge of true religion and virtue. Which made Maecenas to exhort the Emperor Octavius Augustus, most especially to have care of the education of youth, to bring them up in good literature ; for thereby they should be made the more meet afterwards to govern the commonwealth. And divine Plato adviseth that we ought not to be more careful of any thing whatsoever than of the good education of children. And Plutarch saith that the beginning, middle, and ending of a happy g2 Digitized by Microsoft® 44 iaans|)tiJ*s f^istorg at life consisteth in good education and bringing up. And certain it is, a man cannot reap good wheat if he hath not sown good seed— nor gather any good fruit, except he hath had a care in the begin- ning to dress the trees well. For since the transgression of our first forefather Adam, man's nature (which of itself is more inclined to evil than to good) hindereth virtue from taking sure footing and root in the souls of men, if they be not from their very youth well and diligently instructed and stirred up to that which is decent and honest : and truly that Commonwealth is most miserable, wherein the tillage of infancy is neglected. 'UL'ht consideration whereof caused the whole assembly of G' Free Gram- ^^ -* • i • i_ S^°''°°' Yarmouth, in the year of our Lord God 1551, which was m the fifth year of the reign of King Edward VI., William Mayhew and Nicholas Fermage, Bailiffs, to take order that a free Grammar School for all the inhabitants of Yarm" should be erected on the north side of the said chapel. Whereupon, on the eleventh day of May, in the sixth year of that King's reign, order was given that one cham- ber should be taken from the said Hospital, whereof the same School should be erected and made ; and if that were too little, another should likewise be, added thereto, to make it the larger : and that ftr^he^™" also a convenient dwelling for a schoolmaster should be appointed *''^'" to be built, which was performed accordingly. Whereupon, one M' Mr. Haugii Walter Haugh, a grave and learned teacher, (yet no way surpassing the first , , . . ■ « , Master "^t Walter Haugh, his son, at the time of the writing hereof the under-steward of our Admiral Jurisdiction, who for his learning, knowledge^ and good keeping our books, deserveth special com- mendation) was appointed to be the first teacher, to whom ten pounds TheMaster's per annum, besides a fair house to dwell in, was appointed. But the town finding it too little to maintain him therewith, at an Assembly holden in the year of our Lord God 1554, being the second year of Queen Mary, William Dean and Thomas Hunt, Digitized by Microsoft® &uut larmoutt.— 16X9, 45 BailiflFs, they added thereunto that every Four-and-twenty should pay eighteen pence, and every Eight-and-forty eightpence a-piece, by the year, which long since was changed, and more than twenty pounds per annum are now allowed unto him : but which is yet too small a' stipend for M"^ Peerson, a learned and painful teacher, Mr. Teenaa. t^ "^ * the Master, who is the present incumbent thereof. The further enlargement ""'"' '^'^ whereof I wish from my heart (if the town's ability could extend thereunto) were granted unto him and his successors for ever ; not only because it hath already brought forth many learned and ex- cellent divines now living, and for that myself, being a native of that ^]'^^^^*''" incorporation, received in that school my first rudiments of grammar, therein (which very truantly 1 have since that mis-spent and almost forgot- ten) but for that it may be, and still continue to the world's end, a good seminary to send forth more labourers into the Lord's harvest, to the glory of his most holy and blessed name, the good of his church, the benefit of the commonwealth, and the singular com- mendation of this township for evermore ; vrhich, with my whole heart I humbly beseech his Divine Majesty to grant, for his Son Christ's sake. Amen, Amen. ^ni) the other several Tenements be demised to farm to sun- dry persons, which I wish were reduced to their first intent, which was altogether ad pios usus. W^tXt is also another Hospital, or Lazar House, (for so they ^azM Hous'e used to term folk infected with the Elephantasy, or Leprosy, because the skin of lepers be like to that of elephants) many hundred years past built by the town for diseased persons, situate not half a fur- long distant from the north gates of Yarmouth, wherein be many poor people continually relieved and maintained. And before I pass forth of this limit," let me tell you that anno 1538, which was in the thu-tieth year of King Henry VHL, WiUiam Shaw and Ealph Ashley, Bailiffs, the closes adjoining to the ground of the Digitized by Microsoft® 46 Jlansfiiji's ^istox^ of said last mentioned hospital, were taken from out of the Denes and The Denes • i i • i i i partly incloscd, which do yield to the town a good revenue. Here might I also insert one Chapel erected in the year 1600, by this township, Morning for a housc for morning prayer, but for that I mean to speak thereof "^" in the proper place more largely. I^trt will I rest my pen from further writing of buildings dedicated to divine uses, and now mind to proceed to those which were erected for occasions mere human and political ; which, as I told you before, were of two sorts, either public or private, — of which I will, God assisting me, begin with the former, and therein with forts and fortifications. ■2^1)13 town of Yarmouth, for the defence thereof and of the coast adjoining, by the special direction of our Captain Jerinins, at their own private costs and charges, did erect and build up in the midst of the town, directly east of the Prison or Tolhouse of Yar- ^on^tmeted mouth, towards the sea, a very high Mount of earth, which was begun (myself being with other the then grammar scholars of Yarmouth, by the space of three days, a young labourer, or rather loiterer, amongst them, — more willing to help to carry a maund of earth in my hand, than a satchel of books on my shoulder,) on the eleventh of Deceni^ 1569, in the time of John Uiford and Ambrose Bulward, BaiUfFs, by the inhabitants of Yarm°, who continued the work till the 5«> of June following, at which time the town wall wi fei'^ being overcharged, fell down to the ground. The rubbish whereof ^""" being within five days following cleared, a new wall was reared, and on the eleventh day of the month of June aforesaid, they began to iifr and ^^^^^ ^^^^^ *^^ Mount aforesaid afresh, making the breast of flags of earth. Which Mount did contain 222 feet in length, and in breadth 32 feet without the walls: to the performance whereof every one of the number of the Four-and-twenty gave two shillings the week ; every of the Eight-and-forty, twelve pence j and the other The rebuilt dimensions of the same Digitized by Microsoft® ®reat i[armout!j.— 1619, 47 townsmen according to their ability. Eight country carts were hired by the town, who continued the labour by the space of eight weeks : so by the diligent oversight of the magistrates, and willing obedience of the people, the whole work was fully finished by the 5"^ of Aug^' following. But in the year of our Lord 1588, John Coldham and John Youngs, Bailiffs, which was in the year of the coming of the great ('jet by God made weak) Spanish Armada against us, by special direction of S'" Thomas Leighton, the town did inclose the lower part of the same with a wall of brick and free-stone, contain- etiHo«e°d'by a Wall ing in compass 500 feet, the breadth of the foundation 9 feet, the depth within the ground 1 1 feet, the heighth to the setting of the wall 15 feet, and the breadth at the setting off 5 feet and 3 inches ; the height of the wall finished, 20 feet 6 inches : all which was done at the town, charge, and. cost in money (besides the labour of the inhabitants, which being rated at eight pence a-day, did amount to more than £200) the sum of £682 13s. 4d., and is holden by skilful engineers a work for defence most excellent, — so that What wise men do devise hy skill, God blessing, will continue still ; The force of foe it will defend. If helping hand we thereto lend. The other inward Wall is far higher than the town wall, of compe- tency sufiicient, and was by the township begun to be built and walled-in anno 1590, James Johnson and John Wheeler, Bailifis,-^ If one doth miss the other will hit, Which was the cause they builded it. But the same being not finished, it hath been adjudged by men of great wisdom and judgment, that the same will cost, before it be ended, £300. In both which be continually placed in readiness, "^"Spon great pieces of ordnance, to scour the road at the time of the "" **■""" enemy's approaching. Digitized by Microsoft® 48 JHansijip^s Jltstorg of These guns the road do scour so well, That how to land foe cannot tell ; Which, to maintain, the town takes care, And for great cost they do not spare, southMount ^^6 town in that year did likewise build, in the south end constructed thereof, another great and mighty Mount of earth, much higher than the walls of the town, not only purposely to withstand the enemy from entering, but also to scour all along the haven of Yar- *'iac"d°°° m.outh aforesaid : whereon also is continually placed good store of thereon ordnance, to keep the town from being suddenly surprised. Which over and above the labour of the townsmen (amounting to more than £100) did cost them in money £25, so that the charge thereof is £125. < , As Satan sleeps not man to quail, '~ No more doth foe it to assail ; Therefore, as foe doth never rest. So town to watch must still he prest. '^^S town that year also built, at their own costs and charges, in the said haven, close by the Mount last mentioned, a Boom, or Inclosure, to open and shut at every tide, thereby to withstand at their pleasure the entrance of ships into the haven aforesaid : which cost them £107 15*. This town hath built this goodly boom. To withstand foe when he doth come ; So that to pass if ships essay. The ribs for it ransom must pay. IZedln ^^ *^^* t^^'"^ ^^s disbursed in that year of 1588, by that township in fortifications only, the sum of £1165 8*. Ad., besides the work of the inhabitants, which doth amount unto the sum of £400, which in the whol^ is £1565 8s. Ad. flnlj before my pen pass forth of this south-east of Yarmouth,, I may not omit a work of no small importance performed at the A Boom placed over the Haven. Fortifica- tion, anno 1583 Digitized by Microsoft® (great lartnoutfj.— t6l9» 49 only costs of that township, long spoken of, and at length built and finished, viz., — a Wharf or Quay, whereon to lay ballast for ^^*s' Quay all ships coming in or going out of the Haven of Yarm" aforesaid ; enacting sundry good constitutions for the well ordering thereof^ whereby the ballast which in former times was very dispersedly and as disorderly taken in and laid forth at several quays, to the great annoyance of the Haven aforesaid, is now there only to be charged and discharged, not only to the great care and quick dis- patch of all traders thither, but also of the no less safety of the haven aforesaid. This town, therefore, in good discretion. Hath huilt this Quay in such a fashion. That sailors may have quick dispatch. And it from Haven rauch soil may latch. In this year, therefore, of 1588, which was styled long before Mirabilis Annus, so great was the thundering alarm foregoing ru- mour, and grand preparation of the Spanish Invasion, which they forlpiS ' termed their Invincible Navy, provided for the overthrow of this kingdom, (but He that sitteth in the heavens discovered their design- ments, divided their directions, and destroyed their determinations,) that as the whole kingdom in general, so Yarmouth in particular, slacked not to provide sufficiently to defend so mighty an adversary ; and, therefore, in that year besides the buildings before spoken of, and other habiliments of war in general, (provision of particular private persons not here valued or expressed,) they repaired and made fit their Store House, (which is a fair building, and in the time of King Richard II. erected for an House Oratory, and now, by time, turned for matters military,) for the safe keeping and preserving of all their powder, shot, and artillery, great and small ; and all other of their habiliments and furniture of war for sea and land. Wheireof, albeit, there is always (thanks be to God) great H Digitized by Microsoft® 50 MmsW^ lltstorg of plenty in readiness, yet did they that year add in proportion in very> powder, £250 sterling. And although the whole town in general hath great care over the whole business, yet be there yearly two (but in ancient time, viz., in the days of Edward III., four) discreet and expert men chosen, purposely to oversee them, which be called Muringers Mui'ingerSj who do gather the murage-money, and look to the scour- thosen ing and cleansing of the armour, amending and new making of carriages, providing of shot and powder, repairing of walls, gates, and ramparts of the town, and of all other things meet and conve- nient belonging thereto. A Castle Jt hath likcwisc a Castle, or military forefence, seated in the Beacons midst of the towu, with four turrets, which do serve instead of a watch-tower or signal ; (which we term, in common speech, beacons or beawkens, of the old word beacinan, which is, to show by a sign,) and many hundred years have been to give notice to the country of an enemy^s approach: but now the same yieldeth to time, and runneth to ruin. Which Castle, with many rents thereto belonging, being by sundry ancient conveyances, as in the first roll of the en- rollment of deeds, of the first year of Henry IV., remaining in the vestry appeareth, passed by way of feoflTment, were, at the last, on the S"^ of January, anno 1525, in the seventeenth year of the reign of Henry VIII., Ralph Dean and William Burroughs, Bailiffs, by S"" Reynold Rouse and others, unto the said William Burroughs and John Savil passed over as feoffed to the use of that township ; who on the 8*'' day of February, 1550, iii the fifth year of King Edward co'Ifveyed to VI., Thomas Bctts and William Ganton then being Bailiffs, did con- vey the same over unto the Bailiffs, Burgesses and Commonalty of of Yarmouth aforesaid, for ever. Whereunto the said township being minded to convey their Goal, and to hold their courts in that place, for the better strengthening of the same, by act of Assembly in the year of our Lord 1551, in the time of Christopher Heylott Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat i[armouttj.— 1619. 51 and John Echard, Bailiffs, it was decreed that the east wall before the same, should be built, and six dormants there placed ; which was performed accordingly : but not any other thing was proceeded in as formerly was intended. ^xia as the north-east and south part of the town be strongly enclosed with a wall aforesaid, so also is the west part thereof with the river Jer aforesaid, (which we in our common speech do call the Haven, as I suppose of the Britons, who do call a river or water, avon, as formerly I have mentioned:) which having passed all alongst the west side of the town, from the south wall to the north, by the way dispersing itself into the three several rivers aforementioned. ©b£r which river or haven, after great controversy betwixt the Dispute Lords of Lothingland and the town of Yarmouth, about the Ferry vmy over which conveyed the people over the Haven to and from Yarmouth aforesaid, (which was in that place where the bridge is now builded,) as to which of them the same Ferry should of right appertain, it pleased King Henry V., by his charter dated at Southampton, the 15"^ day of July, anno 1417, and of his reign the fifth, Robert Ellis and William Oxney being Bailiffs of Yarmouth, to give leave to be built by the town a bridge of stone or wood at their pleasure, sufficient for horse and men to pass over : by virtue whereof, they built, at their own proper cost and charges, a fair and large bridge The first „ nil Bridge built of main plank and timber, meet for passage of men, horse, and car- riages, consisting of eight arches ; which to this present they do in like manner maintain, accordingly. And forasmuch as there was not any part thereof to open and shut when need required, which in two respects was found very inconvenient ; the one, for that in time of hostility it could not be drawn up, whereby the enemy might be the more easily resisted, and repelled from entrance ; and the townsmen might, with more ease, be defended from peril : the other, for that ships and vessels could not pass in and out when H 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 52 JHansfjip's liiStors of any just occasion required. It was, therefore, by the Assembly of Yarmouth, in the year of our Lord God 1553, (which was in the first year of the reign of Queen Mary,) Christopher Heylott and John Echard being Bailifis, when great troubles were then extant, A Draw- and many more were doubted, agreed that a Drawbridge should be bridge con- Btructed made ; which was performed accordingly. And forasmuch as there is no less wisdom and care in preserving, than providence in the first building, according to the old saying, " non minor est virtus, quam quarere, parta tueri •" imitating the example of the Almighty, who is said to be as powerful in preserving as in creating, the town, therefore, in the year aforesaid, viz., of the draw-bridge making, did prohibit all carts from passing over it. And for the better maintenance of the said draw-bridge, did further constitute, that every one at whose instance the same should be opened, should pay . for Opening two-pcucc ; whcreof three-halfpence to the town, and the other to lilG S31U3 the key-keeper. ©SerE is also a fair building commonly called the Guild Hall, Hall erected near unto the church aforesaid, containing in length, from east to west within the walls, 76 feet, and in breadth, 22 feet ; which being much ruinated, was in the year of our Lord God 1544, in the thirty-sixth year of the reign of King Henry VIII., William Barrow and Thomas Echard, Bailiffs, by the town very substantially repaired and amended, and the walls new buttressed, ftmn Me°/- ^"^ supportcd ; and the roof, which is a very fair one, sometime legfpuced'" belonging to Mettingham College, and upon the suppression thereof "^°" ' the same was brought to Yarmouth, and set and placed upon the said hall, and covered with lead very beautifully. Feast of the ^" *^^® ^^^ ™ *™^^ P^^*' (^^^"J within my remembrance) was Hoi^TriSt^y yearly holden on Trinity Sunday, a solemn feast for the whole bro- therhood and fellowship of the society called the Blessed Trinity, which by our first charter of King John, anno 1207, was granted Digitized by Microsoft® (Sreat iarmoiitl),— 1619. 53 unto us, by the name of the Merchants' Guild; whereunto every one of the Common Council, at his first admission and oath taken, doth still acknowledge himself a brother of that company. Which feast was, for the most part, yearly holden, at the cost of four of that brotherhood successively, according to the course of their incoming maintained ; over which the senior bailiiF for the year precedent was, and is, nominated Alderman. The hall itself being at that time richly hanged and adorned with cloth of Arras Tapestry, and other costly furniture ; not sparing any dainty fare which might be had for money. At which feast all private quarrels and emulations were heard and ended, to the glory of God, and mutual love amongst neighbours ; for which cause, in the primitive time of the church, such Guilds and Fraternities were by the laws ecclesiastical ordained, and by the laws civil, amongst all christian commonweals, used, practised, ratified, and confirmed. Whereby thus much may be inferred : that if laudable and praiseworthy is the bond of amity and ?eMt'°"''° friendship amongst mere natural men, then, how much more espec- ially is that which is amongst christians, who be tied by the strong- est bond of faith and religion ; but above all amongst those christians which be of one fraternity, bound and linked together by solemn oath for performance, as those be that are chosen into the society of Common Council at Yarmouth. Therefore, great shame were it, that any emulations should remain amongst them, since the very beasts, by very instinct of nature, do love their like, and do covet their company. Again, the whole law in this one word, " love thy neighbour as thyself," is fulfilled ; and no nearer neighbour than to be brethren of one company. And that beloved Apostle of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, in his First Epistle, the 4* ch., and 7*'' verse, adviseth to love one another, giving the reason ; "for love comethfrom God, and every one that loveth is born of God and knoweth God; he that loveth not, knowethnot God, for God is love." Digitized by Microsoft® 54 MmsW^ 3listors of And afterwards, in the 16"^ verse of that chapter, " God is love, and he that dwelleth in love dwelleth in God, and God in him :" verse 20"S " If any man saith, I love God and hateth his brother, he is a liar ; for how can he who loveth not his brother whom he hath seen, love God whom he hath not seen. And this commandment have we of him, that he who loveth God should love his brother also." For it is said. Acts 4*, v. 33, " And the multitude of them that believed were of one heart and of one soul," Therefore, if any grudge of a private quarrel should be amongst them, the same will incense and provoke enmity, to the prejudice of the commonwealth where they govern ; for most certain it is, that where anger beareth sway, there can be nothing rightly and considerately advised : therefore, the better to prevent all such unkindnesses, was this feast held. Concerning the manner whereof I find it recorded in the book of the assemblies, beginning in the year of our Lord God 1559, in the second year of the reign of our late Queen, of worthy memory, Elizabeth, (Thomas Garston and Allen Coldham, Bailiffs,) at an assembly holden in the Guild Hall, the 18*'' day of March, in the year of our Saviour Christ Jesus his incarnation, 1563, in the sixth year of her said Majesty's reign, Nicholas Fenn and Nicholas Reeve being Bailiffs, amongst other things it was there agreed as Order of the followcth : — Imprimis, that every brother of the house should, on Feast , , _ ^ 1 m • ' the Vigil or eve of the Blessed Trinity, be present m the church to hear divine service, and should pay for him and his wife two shill- ings and eightpence towards the charges of the feast, whether he came or came not. And every brother and sister extraordinary coming thither, to pay twelvepence a-piece, and so every other person the like. The diet whereof to be as foUoweth, — at their coming to church on the even aforesaid, competency of spice cakes, beer, and ale, to be provided for them : upon the day at dinner, the first course to be frumenty, roast beef, green geese, and veal ; the Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat i[armout!),— 1619. 55 second course to be capon, pig, lamb, and custard : at supper, good broth with boiled meat, roast mutton, capon, lamb, and tarts. At Monday dinner, frumenty, roasted beef, green geese, and lamb. Six persons were appointed to every mess ; two green geese to a mess, and one capon to a mess. And that if any person appointed to heyn that feast, should refuse to perform the same in manner and form aforesaid, he sh'^ pay for his refusal to him that should succeed him, for provision of things necessary for the furnishing of the feast, ten pounds ; which good order was of long time, until the charge did grow so excessive, (but especially the disorder of the people so great,) that by an act of Assembly, holden in the year of our Lord 1569, Thomas Garton and John Wakeman, Bailiffs, it was thought convenient that every heyner paying twenty- six shillings and eightpence a-piece to the Chamberlains, to the use of the township, should be disburthened of the toil and charge aforesaid : which order until this day is continued. ^nS forasmuch as counsel is, as saith Socrates, "a sacred thing ;" and, as Plato calleth it, " the anchor of the whole city, by which the same is stayed as a ship in the sea ;" and hath the same place in the commonwealth that the soul hath in living creatures ; for all the commonwealth doth chiefly depend of counsel and judg- ment, according to the disposition of which, the affairs of the state are well or ill handled : for of this counsel all the rest of the public government dependeth, and by it all the parts of the commonwealth are tied, united, and knit together, as religion, magistracy, justice, and people ; and it is by Cicero called, " the soul, reason, and un- derstanding of the commonwealth." It is, therefore, very meet that there should be in every great city and town, a competent number of senators elected (but not too many, for that is very dangerous) who are to have a place convenient appointed, where they may all assemble and meet together when they shall be duly Digitized by Microsoft® 56 JHansfjip's Historg of summoned by the Magistrate, or any sudden accident shall require their presence, either for the service of the state in general, or for the benefit of the town in particular ; and the aforesaid Guild Hall was to that end at the first builded and finished. 'STouij^tng the situation thereof in the place aforesaid, I can but highly extol the good discretion, or rather christian policy, therein used, for by placing it so nigh the Church aforesaid, it put- teth the senators in remembrance that like as by the divine counsel, delivered forth by God's ministers in the material temple, his church is thereby increased and continued — so by the religious, wise, and politic counsel, and good consultations in that hall con- cluded and agreed upon, the commonwealth of that town is thereby Common Well ordered and governed. Therefore in that hall, for the most Councils , , held in the part, be all their common councils holden, whether it be for the Guild Hall -r ' ' election of their yearly magistrates and oiScers, or for the making of laws and constitutions, (which they commonly call ordinances,) for the good rule and government of that incorporation. The manner whereof, together with their number, shall be delivered when I shall write of the order, rule, and government of that township. But before I depart from hence, I will deliver you one special matter, in my conceit well worth your observation, touching the situation of the hall aforesaid. The same being seated near unto the church aforesaid, every member of that house, and so all other there deceasing this life, and to be interred in that church or churchyard, are to be brought under the hall aforesaid, where the dead body, being carried with the face upward, doth, as it were, behold the place where he hath given good or ill counsel, or con- sented to any wrong doing ; which putteth the living in mind of their mortality, that thereby they may be the more careful of their carriage whilst they be living- Not much unlike the custom of the Egyptians, who, at their meeting, have a dead man brought ia Digitized by Microsoft® (Bxtut ^artttout!)*— 1619. 57 amongst them, to remember their mortality ; whereupon this pro- verb is arisen, " He that remembereth his end shall never do amiss." „, , ., ^ The Author And being once myself one of their company, do wish to retain in S,^J!JI,orpo°-' my mind what then I did, and by God's grace ever will. ""°° " Omnem crede diem tibi di luxisse supremum, Grata supervenit, quce non sperahitur hora!' Think every day shines on thee as the last : Welcome it will come whereof hope was past. ■^TJeW is a place or distance situated in the North Leet of Yar- ^^^^ conge mouth, which is commonly called the Conge ; which, as I conjecture, is derived of the latin word congiarium, which is a dole, or liberal gift, of some prince or noble person, bestowed upon the people ; which this place doth well resemble : for as report doth generally deliver unto us, that there thejKing's Provost (who usually did ' give leave to all ships or vessels, coming to Yarmouth, to charge and discharge their goods and merchandize,) had his residence: and that the same goods and merchandize were charged and dis- charged at the Quay there right over against it, which to this day is called the Lord's Quay. And in the roll of the twelfth ofThetord's Edward II., remaining in the vestry of Yarmouth, I do find that the aforesaid Conge is called the King's Conge ; but lest I should pass the bounds of my knowledge therein, I will curb my pen's passage from diving any further into that matter. 'WiitXt is also a fair, ancient, and stately house, sometime belonging to one Thomas Drayton, a man of great account in Yar- mouth, and, as our old Chronicle reporteth, " famous throughout England ;" who deceased this life in the year 1359, which was in the 33'* year of Edward III., sundry times Bailiif, and one of the Customers of Yarmouth (for then it had two) : and in the twentieth year of the reign of that King, he, with one Peter Cressy, a Burgess I Digitized by Microsoft® 58 JHattsIjtp's lltstors of also of Yarmouth, was received Burgess to the Parliament. Which said house is situate by the Haven side, and in place most conven- iently seated for the several purposes for which it is now used ; The staple which, about the 11'^ year of the reign of Edward II., was appointed Wool to be the Staple or Mart-house for such wool as from that port should be transported, and by Jordan Fristland and William Blansby, two faithful Burgesses, at the town charge was obtained ; as by the roll of that year, within the vestry of Yarmouth remaining, appeareth. But, since that time, that house, viz., on the 28"* of September, A^D"' 1581, in the twenty-third year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, John Grosse and John Bradish, Bailiffs, by indenture from Thomas Damett to Will" Roberts, Esq'", was bargained and sold ; which was afterwards by the said William Roberts, Esq"", (sometime under-steward to this township,) fully given unto it for ever. Which being conveyed to feoffees, viz., to Thomas Damett and John Coldham and others, they by their deed dated the 16*'' of Sep*, anno regni Jacobi, Anglice primo, et Scotice tricesimo septimo, Thomas Damett and Thomas Cotty being Bailiffs, the same did convey to this Township. And it is now employed to sundry good uses. Putch ^art thereof to a house of Morning Prayer, and for the House of exercise of the Dutch Congregation, which was by that township, anno 1600, by the special procurement of that worthy grave senator, Feuo^n a° ^' ^^^^ Feltou, (for virtuous men, and such as have so well deserved Member of of their country, are not to be passed over in silence, but vivo signari lapillo, to be marked on an everlasting stone,) who, for his well doing both in church and commonwealth, deserveth everlasting kind remembrance. His principal care and delight being all his lifetime altogether to advance God's glory, and to do good to the common- wealth of this kingdom in general, but especially of this incorporation of Yarmouth, wherein he received his first breath and being ; which the Council Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat iamoutfj,— 1619, * 59 far above his private estate he preferred : three times he supplied the office of Bailiwick, in every which time he most worshipfuUy and worthily discharged the same. For the good of which township he, being often employed, spent not only a great part of his life, but also of his worldly substance, and by his great labour and worthy endeavours, obtained many special benefits to the good of the township, as by the book of their Common Councils appeareth, which, here, for brevity I do pass over ; only this one thing amongst many other his well doings, I will set down unto you : how that, in that year, being the S""^ time of his Bailiwick, M"^ Tho^ Manfield being then his co-partner Bailiff, there was, as formerly I touched, the said house of Morning Prayer builded, William Knights and Tho^ Symonds then being Chamberlains, whose care, diligence, and forwardness to further so great a work I cannot but highly commend ; appointing that reverend and learned man, M' William Fleming, ^^^ni^'"'^'" the first Lecturer there, to whom was given £20 per annum. The ?he fStS^ dedicating of which house was confirmed by Doctor William Red- mayne, then Bishop of Norwich, under the seal of his bishopric ; and since that, likewise approved and confirmed by the Rev'' Father in God, John Jeggon, his successor, now Bishop of that Diocese, as by his instrument in that behalf, appeareth. ^ISO, on the top thereof, is a fair Turret, leaded ; also a Dial * a"i"ck or Horologe of great beauty, with spacious leads, which in the year "^"'"^ of our Lord God, 1593, in the time of Roger Drury and Thomas Mortimer, Bailiffs, by the forward carefulness and careful forward- ness of Tho^ Butolph and Titus Harward, then Chamberlains, who, for their long and painful good service done to that township, since that have been called, as worthily deserving, (and at this present be) into the number of Aldermen, was begun to be builded. But, the work requiring long labour, the next year following, Henry Stanton and William Crowe, Bailiffs, the aforesaid Chamberlains I 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 60 ■ JHansljljj's l^tstors of being found meet men to continue their places, were again elected ; M the'Leads ^^° ^^^7 finished what the last year was left unperfected. Upon wusicim™ these leads, every Sunday for the most part in summer season, after Evening Prayer ended, the Waits or Musicians of Yarmouth do resound forth upon several consorts of musical instruments, most melodious and delightful harmony. A Custom 2BlllJ£r which leads is lately built by the township, a fair and House built convenient Custom House ; wherein do daily sit His Majesty's officers, the Farmers' Deputies, for receipt of subsidy, custom, and Customs other His Highness' duties, which, in the whole, communibus annis, Duties£3000 o J 3 J 3 anno 1619 do amount unto £3000 per annum. ^nlJ, in the lowest parts of the said house, is a room appointed offlce °"^^ for receipt of Town Duties, w* be received daily by the Chamber- lains, who two hours in the day are there to attend for that purpose, Which duties were granted to this township by the charter of King D^eTwere Edward III., in the year of our Lord 1333, the 28*^ day of March, granted jj^ ^jjg Seventh year of his reign. ^ISO one other spacious room of that house, where the King's ABeamfoi Beam is placed, goods and merchandizes are weighed, and from Goods time to time kept and preserved. ^nlJ forasmuch as where magistrates be, and offenders are to be punished, it is very meet there should be places appointed wherein the bodies of such should be safely kept and detained from liberty, that law and justice should be executed upon them. For that end and purpose were Prisons and Strongholds, at the first, in every several jurisdiction erected : and yet may not any be built without the leave of the supreme Majesty. Therefore, it pleased King Henry III., by his charter granted to this township, bearing date the 28"* day of Sepf, anno 1261, in the forty-fifth year of his reign, to Borough grant unto us a Gaol, for prisoners and malefactors, according to and 'erected* the laws of this land, to be imprisoned ; which ever since has been continued, and is commonly called by the name of the Tolhouse. Digitized by Microsoft® (Hreat garmoutfj.— 1619. 61 3EtX the hall whereof, which is the Prcetorium, or Hall of Justice, ^^^ ^^^^^ for Yarmouth, they do weekly hold two several Courts, the one ^"^ therein called the Borough Court, which in anno 1208 was, by our first charter of King John, amongst many other things, granted unto us, Boroagh 1 ■ 1 1 J • Court — wherein all pleas of land, plaints of debt, detinue, trespass, cove- nant broken, and all other accounts, whatsoever they be, between party and party, according to the orders of the common law of this realm, are to be tried. ^nlJ one other Court, called the Admiral Court, which first by Admiralty our late sovereign of famous memory. Queen Elizabeth, by her charter, dated the 26"> of May, anno 1559, in the first year of her reign, was granted unto the township, wherein all marine cases are to be handled, except piracy, which now also, by charter of his cognizance Majesty, (our Sovereign Lord King James that now is,) bearing granted date the 22°* day of July, anno 1608, in the sixth year of his reign of Great Britain, John Coldham and Gregory Goose being Bailiffs, is granted unto them. By virtue whereof, the first sessions of Theiirst Piracy were, on the 26*'' day of March, 1613, in the eleventh year piracy tried of his Majesty's reign, by John Greenwood and George Hardware, Bailifi's, Ryce Gwyn, Recorder, and John Jermy, Esq', four Justices of the Peace and Quorum, and other the Justices of that incorpora- tion, holden and kept, where five persons whose names ensue, viz.. Five Pirates • It « • 1 1 -E r ■ condemned Thomas Jenkins, of London, marmer, Michael Mugge, mariner, Edward Carter, of Newcastle, mariner, Michael Smith, of the city of York, merchant, and John Jacob, of Ratcliffe, miriner, for board- ing a Flemish ship in the Thames, and feloniously and piratically carrying her away, with other goods, and landing at Yarmouth, were there apprehended, arraigned, and condemned: but the magistrates, minding at this their first entrance for trial of pirates, to temper justice with mercy, and that as the Psalmist saith, " mercy and justice might kiss each other, " did execute only. Digitized by Microsoft® 62 JHattsfjtp's l^tiStors of Three Pirates Executed Two of them are Pardoned Sessions holden daily Audit Room Four -Auditors appointed annually Of Private Houses three of them ; and, therewith, having respect to the most penitent and least oiFenders, being the first capital offence that ever they committed, did reprieve Michael Smith and John Jacob, who since that have obtained his Majesty's most gracious pardon, whereupon they were set at liberty, for which the Lord make them for evermore thankful, and grant them his grace, that they may spend the residue of their days hereafter to the glory of God, good of the common- wealth, and benefit of their own souls for evermore. Amen. ^nll in the said Hall the Sessions for the Peace, Goal delivery, and punishment of other misdemeanours, be daily holden : which, by King Henry VII., amongst many other things, by charter, dated the 17"* day of May, anno 1494, in the ninth year of his reign, was granted to the township of Yarmouth, aforesaid: which, before that, were holden by special commission obtained. ^nb thereunto of late is builded and annexed, a very conven- ient room or building, wherein the audit for all the town accounts, viz., the Chamberlains, Churchwardens, Collectors of the Haven Doles, Muringers, and all the other accountants, are by four special men> (viz., two Aldermen and two of the Common Council,) there- unto yearly chosen, to be heard, cast up, and accounted, and the same by them allowed or disallowed, at their will and pleasure. And afterwards their whole proceedings, being by the said four Auditors into one book contracted, is afterwards by them also presented to the Common Council, and so recorded in the book of their Assemblies. ^ext, by the course which I have hitherto followed and for- merly premised, I am to say somewhat concerning houses, in cities and towns, built for private uses ; the beauty whereof those in Yarmouth hasteneth my pen thitherwards. In all cities and towns, private buildings, in respect of the Commonwealth, are not altoge- ther to be neglected by the magistrates, — although by and at the Digitized by Microsoft® (Bxmt Harmoutfi.— 1619. 63 costs of private persons they be framed and builded : inasmuch as The building the uniformity of buildings, firmness, and repairing of them, do Hou^eT'^ concern either the magnificence, decency, comehness, or beauty, under the .,. Ill Mill 111 control of the or such City or town where they be builded and erected; whereby Ruiersofa •' •' _ ■' Common- deformity of structure, dishonour, disorder, indecency, uncomeliness, '^^^^'■^ ;f and great loss, doth not befall unto such town or city. Therefore, Trajan, the Emperor, made laws, called in latin " leffes (Bdeficatoria (laws for building,) whereby he did ordain the height of such houses as should be built in Rome. Severus and Anthony did the like for thickness of walls, appointing, where spacious rooms were, the walls to be thicker, and where less, to be less ; according to the certain proportion then and there used and accustomed. Where- upon it hath pleased his most excellent Majesty, our dread Sovereign King James, by his royal edict to that effect, to command and order the new buildings of London. And to this effect will I shew you forpreserv- . . . ingthe what I find in the rolls of Yarmouth, in the time of the reign of uniformity ' ° of Private Edward I. and II., that most commonly, and so often as any house, houses or piece of ground, was bargained for and sold, whether it was sit- uate by the Dene, Middle Street, or Quay, this clause was inserted in the deed thereof, viz., "cum tanta portione versus orientem vel occidentem quam alii convicini idem capiunt, seu capere possuit," which is, with such a portion of ground, whether it were east or west, (towards the Dene, Middle Street, or Quay,) as others, the next neighbours, did or lawfully might take, in those places : whereby it appeareth that not any one man might exceed his neigh- bour, next inhabiting unto him, in the extent of his building. And for the avoidance of annoyance, purpresture, encroachments, and such like, to be committed by one neighbour to another, special officers were appointed, (which in that famous city of London, and many other places be still continued,) who had power to reform such abuses, and who evermore did punish the offender, according Digitized by Microsoft® 64 JHansIitp's l^tstorg o! Nuisances existing to wood or thatched Houses should not be allowed to fall to ruin to the quality of the offence committed: which order I would were in like manner used in Yarmouth ; then could not so many ahuses, either in public streets or private buildings, be daily offered as at this present. The stuff and matter, likewise, whereof they should be built, was in like manner to be cared for, that the same should be least subject to firing : wherein I must commend the policy of Yarmouth, where, by act of Assembly made anno 1571, in the time "^13"^ of John Grosse and Tho= Smith, Bailiffs, houses to be made of board, or covered with reed, were utterly, upon pain of £5 fine, forbidden to be builded. Neither is it lawful, in well governed cities or towns, to suffer houses to fall to ruin, or otherwise them to demolish, to the great disgracing and defacing of the whole city, or township ; but that the owners, in due time, be enjoined to new build or otherwise amend them : and to that effect have I found many good presentments, entered in the rolls of Edward II., and long time since, as by the records in the Vestry appeareth. For further good order whereof, I read, that the Emperor Constan- tine ordained, that not any of the old Marble Monuments should be carried away into the country, but should still (for an ornament) be kept in the city; and that, any houses decaying in the city, the owners should not be permitted to convert them into gardens, whereby any part of the city in the principal parts should be unbuilded. But where (as in Yarm",) no such offences be com- mitted, the making of such laws be needless ; for time out of mind, no sooner hath God, by his blessing, to a Yarmouth man given any small ability, but that the building of a house to dwell in, and a bark to catch fish in, is the first thing he intendeth, and (as in the Chronographical Table before remembered is expressed) delighteth in. Whereby it appeareth, that disposition, to a Yarmouth man, is merely natural and hereditary. Yarmouth Men great Builders of Houses and Siiips Digitized by Microsoft® ^reat |[armout!j.— 1619, 65 23ut leaving further discoursing of foreign laws for building of Yamouth private houses, I will return to those of this my native soil of Yarm"; Buildings which, whether you do respect the magnificency, the matter, or the form, of buildings therein, not any maritime town of this kingdom is much to be preferred before it. First, for the magnificency and sumptuous building thereof, the eye-beholder can better witness the truth of the same, than either my pen can enforce to believe by reading hereof, or my tongue by uttering of speech can deliver unto any. The very sight whereof caused that thrice renowned, and of Europe the grave and wise counsellor, William, Lord Burleigh, l^^^'^igh Lord High Treasurer of England, and Robert, Earl of Leicester^ Yarmoutt in the year of our Lord God 1578, (at such time as Queen Eliza- beth, of happy memory, came in Progress to Norwich, and themselves, with many others of the nobles, came to Yarmouth, where they were most worthily entertained in martial manner, and fhTprfofy at the Priory, at the town's charges, royally feasted, and in like manner, by the principal merchants of Yarm" attended,) in my hearing highly to commend the stately uniform buildings then in BuUdinRsin it, which, since that time (praised be God) is more than redoubled. Touching the matter whereof these houses be built : the same is of flint and, well burnt brick, covered with tile, not easily subject to combustion : and for form, I may say, as of the former, — come hither, therefore, gentle reader, in which thou shalt save my pen it labour, and give thyself better satisfaction ; for the eye will make a deeper impression into thy mind, than the best orator with his pen is able to persuade thee to believe : which, having once seen^ then conceive and report of it as thou pleasest. 'ST^J streets in number be three, which be contained in the The streets Dene, Middle, and Key-side ; of all which the last is most beautiful. ^nif in respect of the stately and comely buildings called the Gheapside of Yarmouth, and w"'' by the goodness of the Haven, is- K Digitized by Microsoft® 66 JHansfitii's llistors of become the most opulent part; there is a great distance betwixt the wall of the Haven and the several buildings. I find by an old record taken out of the book of Doomsday, in the fourteenth year of Edward I., son of King Henry TIL, then being in NorfF., at the Assizes before Solomon de Rolf, and his fel- low Justices of the Peace of our Sovereign Lord the King, by the Yarmouth gath of twelvc men it was found as followeth ; that the said Town heldincapite of Jslyeariy ^^8 holden of the King in Capite by fee-farm of £55, and by King John granted to the Burgesses of Yarmouth; which farm King Henry did assign to John Baliol, and Devirgoil, his wife, (in exchange for certain lands of theirs in Cheshire,) together with the Manor of Lothingland, for forty years, to be holden at the will Four Leets of the king. And that in the same town be four Leets, which to this day be continued : viz., the South and South Middle, the North and North Middle, with their several divisions and lanes, apper- taining to either, which to this day be continued, except some Contains 140 certain lanes since that granted to private persons ; so that the number of them at this day be one hundred and forty ; whereby every householder to his private dwelling, hath of all necessaries very convenient conveyance : and the same in time of hostility, for the defence and safeguard of the town, is very meet and necessary ; for one man against twenty, with shot and powder, is able to make resistance. ■^CSfSE buildings, although dissevered and disjoined each from the other by rowes or lanes, the same being in number as I have before declared, one hundred and forty, yet is there not any more division in comeliness, to be by the eye discovered, amongst them^ ; than unpleasantness to the ear in music, consisting of many discords Tarmonthso which do make a perfect concord. The streets being contrived and built to serve '^ O ^ tawarttae ^^^^^ ^^ svLch. Warlike manner, flanker wise, with such convenient distance from the walls aforesaid, that the enemy having gained the l.anes or Rows Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutfj.— X6X9. 67 walls, and entered the town, (both which God forbid,) may with few men be enforced to retire, and the town recovered without any great danger sustained. Thus having cursorily, with a swift foot, run through the streets of that township, I do mind the Walls, which, as the shell of a nut doth the kernel, so do they enclose" the mansion-houses contained in it. j^otn to say something of the walls wherewith this town is The waiia enclosed, which I do include in the first sort of public buildings. Forasmuch as they do encompass the civil body, which be all the inhabitants thereof, and be sometimes taken from them, as "con- tinens pro contento" the container for the contained : as when the Carthaginians had received a great loss by sea, they covered the walls with black cloth, betokening thereby the mourning of the whole city. Therefore one saith, that the walls of a city or town, they be holy things, and be not the proper goods of any, yet be all to have care over them : and for that cause no private person is to be per- Persons not * * * to be allowed mitted to dwell in or on them, or in any towers which be built on Jhe^waiiT*' them, without special licence and great regard had unto them who be so permitted to dwell there ; lest by that means treasons be committed, or otherwise be burnt with fire, to the destruction of the whole town, or city : neither be any dwelling-houses to be permitted to be built near unto them, for the cause above said. Therefore the more they do concern the common good, the more carefully be they to be respected : for which cause, I cannot but commend the first builders of the walls of Yarmouth : for that they be situated distant from the common buildings of that township. ■^Tfie walls of a town or city be necessary, as the philosopher wausf °' saith, in three respects : viz., first, for comeliness ; secondly, for safety of the inhabitants; thirdly, for terror of the enemy. And yet be not any to be built without licence from the prince first had and obtained. Therefore did Nehemiah ask leave of Artaxerxes before E 2 i to a Town Digitized by Microsoft® 68 faansljtp's f^tstorg of he built the walls of Jerusalem : neither were these walls of Yar- Henry III. p™^'^ietters mouth built before it pleased King Henry III., by his letters patent, mo'ulh ^uh bearing date the 28*'' day of Sep"^, in the year of our Lord 1261, and dS"^"* in the forty-fifth year of his reign, (which to this year 1613 is 352 years past,) to give leave to enclose the same with a wall and a ditch. Which on the north, east, and south parts, was shortly after built and finished with a fair high wall, embattled, and most magnificently towered, and turretted exceeding comely ; and in like manner be to this day continued accordingly, to the exceeding great strength of Norfolk and Suffolk, and honor of this kingdom. So, as report doth deliver unto us, and pregnant probabilities do approve, was it in like manner compassed with a mighty main ditch, in former times The Ditch aud^eeis passable with boats and keels, which did convey things necessary for such as did inhabit upon the Dene side, or east part of Yarmouth aforesaid, '^l)e second cause why walls be builded, as you have heard, be for the safety of the inhabitants. This safety principally dependeth (next under God) on the strength of the said walls, towers, citadels^ and fortresses thereof: and since Yarmouth is a frontier town, standing in the face of the enemy, to defend both the coasts of Norfolk and Suffolk, it is very necessary and expedient that the same should be well walled and defended. For although it be ad- judged by the wisest, that in great kingdoms such as England is, that not any place within the bowels of the land should be fortified) which caused King Stephen (that usurper) to demolish and make even with the ground (if I be not mislead by reading,) more than one thousand castles and strongholds within this kingdom; yet notwithstanding, it is thought most meet that the frontiers be. In an ancient inheritance and well settled estate, fortresses are only needful upon the frontiers, and against the bordering enemy ; as saith Mar. (lib. 2°", die. 24*^^,) "solum modo. prodesse queunt arces Digitized by Microsoft® ©nat f amoutfj*— 1619. 69 infinibus imperii locis prcesertim mariiimis, positcR ad sustinendos hostesper dies aliquot donee exercitus instruatur" But in the bowels of the country they are useless, and in some cases prejudicious and dangerous ; therefore, nature only armeth the heads and hoofs of beasts, but never the middle parts. For, if enemies do suddenly assail such a town as Yarmouth, with so mighty a force as that the strength of man cannot withstand it, yet be the inhabitants often defended, and the whole town preserved, by such buildings. For, as one saith, it is better that the enemy batter the walls of the town, than the bodies of the townsmen, with their shot and artillery. For if there be no walls, they have but one way to withstand their enemies, which is main strength ; but if they have walls, then have they both strength of body to defend themselves, and walls to defend the town or city. They be also in the offence of others the more ready, and in the defence of themselves more assured. It is very true, indeed, that one asking a captain of the Lacedemonians why the city was not walled, he shewed him the youth of the city. It cannot be denied that the strength of the kingdom consisteth especi- ally in the united hearts of the people, as Brutus proveth in Livy : to which purpose the poet also saith, that where there is concord amongst the citizens, "pulchram munitam esse urbem" that city be most excellently well defended ; but where discord reigneth, " cen- tuplex mums urbi non sufficit" an hundred fold wall is not sufficient. Whereof it cometh that the Tartarians, Ethiopians, and Arabians, have no fortified places ; and it is said of Prester John, that he hath but one in all his empire. And we in England, except in frontier places, have none : but his Majesty's one special reason against them is this, (for I will not, although I can, allege many others to stand upon,) viz., lest the enemy being entered, should stay and possess himself of some of those places, where otherwise he only forageth and harasseth tbe country, and so departeth : which caused Digitized by Microsoft® 70 JIansfitjj's f^tstorg of the duke of Urbino to cast down all his castles, finding himself too weak to resist his enemy, and retired to Venusia, assuring himself he could not stay there long, where there was no place to be kept ; which judgment of his the event well proved to be true. Examples I could produce many to this effect; but I mind not to be tedious therein, but will return from whence I digressed ; which is that the frontiers, notwithstanding, must and ought of necessity to be forti- fied, as before is declared. And therefore, if any town in the uth frontier of England, this town of Yarmouth ought ; for that as in fence fo'i^the ^^c G*'' page of this book at large appeareth, it is such a key for kingdom ^^^ defence of this kingdom, as there is not the like in the six counties adjoining. '^^fiirljlB, and lastly, walls be a terror to the enemy ; for being so fortified as before is declared, the enemy dareth not approach near it to hurt it ; no more than a thief, seeing a man well armed, dareth assail his person, though most gladly he would have all the money in his purse, if he durst adventure to attempt it. The enemy full well knoweth, that both Pyrrhus and Abimelech, two worthy chieftains, were either of them slain with a stone cast from the walls of a city. Moreover, so mighty be the engines of war, since guns were invented, that the same by mere human strength cannot be resisted : yea, this artillery is an invention so new, so terrible, so different from ancient devices, as we may say that at these days we make war not with iron and little bodily strength, but with flashing flames of fire, guns and powder, which by force sur- passeth all things. Therefore of necessity must walls, castles, towns, citadels, mounts, ravelins, and such like forceable resistances be builded. Length of 'SCftESe walls do Contain in compass, from the north unto the the Walls south, 2190 yards, having in them sixteen stately towers; and also ten spacious gates, for the bringing in and carrying out of Digitized by Microsoft® ©rcat ^arntoutfj.— 1619. 71 merchandize at all times convenient. The several distances whereof ensue, as foUoweth : — yds. ft. From the Haven on the south to the South Gate, contains . . 58 The Gate is a four-square Tower, and in breadth is 22 The breadth of the South Gate within the Tower, is . . . . 4 From the South Gate to the next Tower, is 42 The Tower is in breadth 6 From that Tower to the South-East Tower, is 90 The Tower is in breadth 5 1 From that Tower toward the north to the corner of the Wall, is 109 From that Corner to the next South-East Tower, is . . . . 70 The breadth of that Tower, is 7 From that Tower, northward, to the next Gate, is 60 And the Gate is broad 2 From that Gate to the next Gate, is 78 And the Gate is in breadth 10 From that Gate to the next Tower, is 66 The breadth of the Tower, is 10 From that Tower to the next Gate, is 61 And the Gate is in breadth 2 From the South Gate to the east side of the Town, to the Mount, is 120 The Mount is in length 62 From the Mount to the next Gate, northward, called the New Gate, is 36 The Gate is in breadth 2 2 From that Gate to the next Tower, is 5 The breadth of the Tower, is 9 From that Tower to the next Tower, northward, is 80 The breadth of that Tower, is 9 From that Tower to the next Gate, called Oxney Gate, is . . 82 The breadth of that Gate (being also a Tower) is -with the Gate and Tower together 7 Carried forward 1115 Dimensions and distances of the Gates, lowers, &c. Digitized by Microsoft® 72 M^nW^ ^istov^ of Dimensions and distances of the Gates, Toweis, &c. yds. ft. Brought forward 1115 From that Tower to the next Tower, is 75 And the Tower is in breadth 8 From that Tower to the Market Gate, is 60 That Gate being a four-square Tower, is 22 From that Gate to the next Tower, is 60 The Tower is in breadth 8 From that Tower to the next Gate, called the Pudding Gate, is 78 That Gate being a Tower, is in breadth 8 From that Gate to the next Tower, called S' Nicholas Tower, is 196 The Tower and Gate is in breadth 10 From S* Nicholas to King Henry's Tower, is 30 That Tower is in breadth, with the compass of the east side . . 20 From King Henry's Tower to the next corner of the wall, which lieth east and west-ward, adjoining the churchyard, is 130 From that corner to the next corner, which lieth north and south, is 90 And the breadth of the corner Tower, is 8 From that corner to the North Gate, is 48 The breadth of that Tower (being called the North Gate,) is 24 The breadth of the Gate within the Tower, is 4 From the North Gate and Tower to the next Tower, is . . . , 92 From that Tower to the next Tower, (being the North-west Tower,) is 93 From that Tower to the end of the wall, adjoining to the N° Water, is .. 11 Summa Totalis, is 2190 O These walk, so high, do foe defy ; Whilst Gates, so broad, do maintain trade. Yet strongest fence Yarm" can have, (And it from dangers jbest may save, J , . ■, . Is not thefti/ity walls so strong, But still to have wise men among. Digitized by Microsoft® ©rcat larmoutlj.— 1619. 73 •St^tSE walls do contain in lieight, 23 feet ; but the towers and JJl' balls'*' turrets, in height, do far exceed them, and were in 1544, in the 36"' year of the reign of King Henry VIII., William Burrough and Thomas Echard, Bailiifs of Yarmouth, when as great wars were then proclaimed both against France and Scotland, by his Majesty's special commission, directed to the high and mighty prince, Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, who, first disgardening such gardens as were all ^^ovrf, alongst within the walls of Yarmouth builded, he caused them to be rampired. rampired; for the performance whereof, those hills without the gates, which the easterly winds had in long continuance of time blown thither, were taken and brought in by the townsmen ; and levelled by that means the whole town, within the space of fifteen weeks, for, " multis manibus levatur opus" (many hands make light work,) was against French and Scotch enemies, strongly fortified. The The waiis ^ . rampired a like, also, was eflsoons done in the year of our Lord God 1557, in sMondtime the fifth year of the reign of Queen Mary, (Cornelius Bright and William Harbrown being Bailiffs) by the townsmen, — who continued three days in every week, working from the 16"^ of January to the 18"^ of April, following. Wti were not those walls sufficiently rampired, till in the year The waiis *^ ot » 1 rampired a of our Lord 1587, (which was in the year before the Spanish twrd time intended Invasion,) in the twenty-ninth year of our late good Queen, Elizabeth, (John Wakeman and John Greenwood being Bailiffs) ; at which time, they were from the Black Friars to the Market Gates, very fully and formally finished to the top, by the town, aforesaid, with earth and manure, more than 40 feet in breadth, resistable, by God's help, against any battery whatsoever. •Sr^en, also, were all the Gates, by the special direction of the The Gates said M' Greenwood, arched over with brick ; so that many men may walk side by side together, all alongst the walls aforesaid, pass- ing pleasantly in such comely, sort, that it is a great pleasure to all' Digitized by Microsoft® 74 ilHaits&tp's listors of that come thither to behold it ; which, before the same was finished, they could not do, and for which he well deserveth worthy rememb- rance. The Priory ^ItlJ in the jcar following, John Coldham and John Youngs, Friars ram- Bailiffs, the Black Friars and Priory were rampired in like manner : pired, and a . . , ravelin built and a raveliu, on the east side thereof, by the direction of S"' Thomas Leighton, (the Spanish Armada approaching the coast,) was then also builded ; but, had not the town long since bestowed great cost The South and labour, it had a great while ago been decayed utterly. And in Moat ^ re-trenched that vcar, also, the ditch without the south walls, by the aid of the country, was in like manner, digged, delved, and trenched. Thus, — ■ Of all towns within these parts, walled alone is she ; Lest she to foes continually, a scrambling prey might be. Whereby, herself and all the coast, she doth full well defend' God grant that still she may so do, even to the world's end. Therefore, as David prays for Jerusalem, in Psalm cxxii., so do I pray for the peace of Yarmouth, " they shall prosper that love thee: peace be within thy walls, and plenteousness within thy palaces. For my brethren and neighbours' sake, " (which is all England) I will wish thee prosperity. Which the Lord in his mercy vouchsafe, for Christ's sake, to be poured on thee, so long as the sun and moon endure. Amen, Amen. Concluding with this distichion Yarmouth, by art and seat of place, well fenced, now farewell. God grant his fear, with blessings to all, in thee may ever dwell. jSoto, having finished the four sorts of lime and stone build- ings, I leave them all, and will for thy sake, gentle reader, travel a The Haven's mile and a half further, to the southward, unto the Pier-mouth, or Mouth ^ ' entrance into the Haven of Great Yarmouth, to see what I can there find to delight thee. Of this peerless piece of work, (which, of all other the town-works, in charges, without comparison, far surmounteth the residue,) which may be called the great A, or A Digitized by Microsoft® 0reat larmoiitfj.— 1619, 75 per se, (which, is as it were, to stand alone,) unmatchable by any- work, of a lilfe subject, within the whole realm of England; and therefore, do place it by itself accordingly : wherein I must confess I can say but little ; and the less, by reason more than nine years The Author TGTTlOVGd (the time of my removal from amongst them) I have been estranged from the ^ •' . . . Corporation from town business, and therefore, do most willingly submit my imperfections to better judgments, (for I do not love to take any pleasure in mine own error) and my well meaning to the honest minded, who are wont to take all things in the best part ; and there- fore, do pray of the good reader, wherein I shall err, to be corrected ; and where I want knowledge, to be better instructed by those to whom the Haven business has, from time to time, been committed. Yet, having, as in other things, so in this, long since endeavoured to know the original, progress, and success of all things in general, which do concern the good of that township ; therefore, as my know- ledge will permit me, I may mind to say something thereof. But, before I begin, let me say something by way of advertisement unto thee ; in all the discourse whereof, courteous reader, if I shall con- tinue long, (and it may be thyself will think too long) let me entreat thee to pardon my prolixity, and, (this subject, T mean the Haven, being one of such great importance, and, as it were, under the Almighty, the ens entium, the very beginning of Yarmouth, requiring no less,) to lend thine ear a little time to me, that have spent more than twenty years of laborious time (but, ubi amor, nullus labor, love hath no lack,) to benefit thee; to the end that thou, whosoever thou art, which shall read the same, (according to the place which God hath set thee in) mayest, with all thy endeavours labour to do good unto it. "Wherein, resting my hope, I do proceed to the busi^ ness itself, from which I even now digressed. jporasmutjb as, of all worldly affairs, the principal welfare and prosperous success of every maritime town of this kingdom, (especi^ L 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 76 JHaitsIjip's ^^tstorg of Prosperity of allv of such as havc their maintenance alone by sea, as this town of a Sea Port •' J ' ^^p^"^^^^™« Yarmouth, which hath not any land or other revenues, other than arising out of the seas, to sustain it, as long before in this book hath been declared unto you,) next under the blessing of the Almighty, consisteth in the goodness, aptness, meetness, and commodiousness, of the ports, havens, rivers, and creeks, thereto belonging ; which . be the means for the speedy importing, exporting, and vending, of all goods and merchandizes, and the only means of traffic. For by them, not only the town itself, but also all the places adjoining, and most part of the kingdom beside, with plenty of victuals and infinitude of other necessaries, from time to time, be relieved and furnished ; as in part hath been, and more hereafter (God assisting me) shall be, before I pass forth in treating of this subject, at large declared unto you. And now to speak more particularly of the proper trade of Yarmouth, whereby it is maintained. It cannot be said of Yarmouth or Yarmouth men, as of the towns which do lie in the Isle of Thanet, especially of those which are situate by the roads or harbours of Margate, Ramsgate, and Broadstairs, who all have lands to maintain them ; or of the inhabitants, who be as it were, amphibii, that is, both land and sea creatures, getting their living with both the elements of sea and land ; otherwhiles being fishermen and otherwhiles ploughmen, as well husbandmen as mariners ; for they that hold the plough-tail therein, ploughing and earing the ground, do hold the helm in steering the ship ; and, according to the season of the year, knit or (as we commonly say jat Yarmouth,) braid nets, fish for cod in the North Seas, for herrings at Yarmouth, in the fishing season, and for mackerel in the narrow seas ; with which, and other merchandizes, as time and season of the year doth require, they sail forth and expose them in foreign kingdoms : and the same men do at other times dung and manure their lands, plough, sow, and harrow, reap their own corn and ear Digitized by Microsoft® 0rcat f armoutfj.— 1619. 77 it. Whereas, the men of Yarmouth have not any lands, but only their sea labour to maintain them ; wherein they have as diligently themselves applied as any coast town of this kingdom: for by ancient records I find, that in the twentieth year of the reign of Edward III., this town had then in it of ships of a hundred tons, 80 ; Number of ' ' ' Vessels be- of sixty tons, 53; of barks between forty and sixty tons, 60; of fisher- i™s™j;Jj>.^ boats, 250 ; which, as well by a great mortality as by the badness ^''"' ^*- '^^' of the haven happening, did, in few years following, greatly abate in number. And here, let me remind you besides, what I have for- merly written in page 6 of this book, which M"" John Speed, (whom I have before often remembered) in his Theatre of 1611, chap. IS**", fol. 35, saith of Yarmouth, — that they maintain a Pier at the yearly charge of £500, or thereabouts. ■^bjE inhabitants, therefore, of Yarmouth, having more than 300 years endeavoured the making of an haven, commodious and meet for the purpose aforesaid; have sundry times, at their great jjiflj^uities costs and charges, not sparing for men or money, sent far and near, in making as well beyond the seas, as to the utmost parts of this kingdom, for expert and skillful men to direct them in that business : by whose advice they have attempted to cut and dig forth the same In several places. The mouths of which evermore the rage and violence of the seas, and fierce boisterous blasts of the north-east wind, blowing directly thereinto, have so dammed and stopped, that the fresh back waters have continually made issue into the ocean, sometimes in one place and sometimes in another ; which, to their Infinite great costs and expenses, they have from time to time been enforced to new dig ^gain, and maintain, as often as any such things happened. It were too tedious, gentle reader, to collect and here to set down unto you, the infinite troubles this township hath sustained, the huge cost It hath expended, and tedious suit which it hath been constrained, from time to time, to exhibit to the several kings and queens of this land, Digitized by Microsoft® 78 IHansfjtjii's l^tstorg of Grubb'e Haven for the cutting, digging, and making, of an haven meet for that pur- pose. But, because I will ease both thee from reading, and myself from searching or writing of matter of so great antiquity, I will content myself with such occurrences as since the year of our Lord 1346, which was in the 20"^ year of the reign of King Edward III., (now 273 years past) touching the said haven, hitherto I have found, * and which have happened unto it. After that the issue of the back waters to the north had changed their course, by the stopping of the sea, from entering at the mouth of the Grubb's Haven ; and that it grew firm ground between Yarmouth and Caister, as hath been before declared ; and that the south waters passed forth only alongst the high cliff under Gorleston, Gorton, and Gunton, in SufP' ; and that the marshes (which do lie in the level, which before that were all overflown with waters,) began, in like manner, to be thereby well drained, and to bear grass in many places, meet for feeding of cattle ; the entry of the haven being so far distant from Yarmouth, and having so long a neck by the alternate course of the sea, many sands and shelves did from the tenth until the twentieth year of Edward III., increase and multiply therein ; which made the pass- age so dangerous, that few ships of burthen could safely enter into it : whereby the town began to decay. Which caused them to crave leave of Edward III., in the twentieth year of his reign, to cut an haven somewhat nearer unto Yarmouth, (viz., against Gorton) there- by to make the entry shorter, whereby it should not be subject to stopping ; which was granted unto them. To the charge whereof, the king himself was very beneficial, in regard that in the fourteenth KSsMng year of his reign, at Sluys, in Flanders, commonly called the Battle good service of Swiuc, the towusmcu of Yarmouth did him most worthy service. But much more within seven years following, which was at the ruining of Galais, (as hereafter in place more convenient shall be declared.) Which haven they continued by the space of 26 years. The first Haven cut Digitized by Microsoft® (Bxtui Ifarmoutfj,— 1619. 79 viz., until the forty-sixth year of his reign ; when as it hegan wholly ^^^ jj^^^^ to be dammed up, so that not any ships could enter, but were "°*''^'* "■" enforced to discharge in the roads adjoining, called Kirkley Roads, or near unto the mouth of the haven aforesaid. Whereof the king having due information, after a suit of six years' continuance, not- withstanding great opposition to the contrary, it pleased him to |^™,^^,ant- unite the said Road of Kirkley unto it, the town paying the sum of Town"'° £5 yearly for it ; giving unto them full power to receive the like duties there as at Yarmouth, which ever since it hath with no small charge enjoyed ; although many oppositions by the men of Lowes- toft hath been most unjustly exhibited against it. I^Et, was the township, notwithstanding, within twenty years second *^ , . . , . Haven following, which was anno 1392, bemg m the sixteenth year ot King Richard II., enforced the second time to become suitors, to have the haven to be cut out more than three miles nearer to Yar- mouth, which was over against the Horse Ferry : which, by the old ft'aorSt^ trenches yet extant, are to be seen right over against the north-end of Gorleston, where the ferry is now used; which, together with twelve-pence for every last of herrings, for five years, there brought in, was granted unto them. Whereupon many good orders, extant in the rolls of Yarmouth of that year, were, for the maintenance and preservation thereof, by the Assembly of Yarmouth, providently enacted. 23ut, within sixteen years following, viz., anno 1408, which ^^^.^^ g^^.^ was inthe ninth year of Henry IV., the same again decaying, they were again, the third time, constrained to be humble suitors unto His Majesty, also for the cutting thereof, near unto Newton Cross, where yet a standing pool marketh the mouth of the same ; who bountifully also gave towards the charge, out of his Customs, £1000, to be paid by £ 1 00 a year : which was paid and bestowed accord- Henry ly. ingly. For this haven (which, by the space of 100 years, with an per amium, Digitized by Microsoft® 80 JHansljip's f^istorg of •with other intolerable charge, was supported,) they were enforced to crave help aids, towards o i i / »' r the Haven's ^ maintain it, in the year of our Lord 1468, which was in the eighth year of Edward IV.; who granted two thousand marks unto them, with the remittance of fifty marks, parcel of the fee-farm, for forty years following, for the relief of the same ; which in like manner, not without excessive costs and charges of their own, by the space of forty years more, or thereabouts, they maintained. When the town itself also so greatly decayed that it pleased King Henry VII., upon a complaint exhibited to His Majesty and his honourable council, at Richmond, in the seventeenth year of his reign, by Rich* Osteler, one of the Bailiffs, and Christopher May, one of his brethren, to remit to the town fifty marks, for five years. Fourth 23ut, that not sufficient, the town being by such extraordinary charges so greatly impoverished, that, as appeareth fol. 35 of the Red Book, about the twenty-third year of his reign, (which Was in the year 1508) John James and Henry Plumpstead, Bailiffs, they were, the fourth time, enforced to become suitors to the king, for leave to cut out the mouth of the haven much nearer unto the town of grants fur- ' Yarmouth than that of the former last remembered : which, with ther aids to ^ the Town g, benevolencc of fifty marks for twenty-five years' continuance, and their own huge costs and labour, they, by the space of twenty years, also maintained. Fifth Haven 23ut the Same also decaying, and being by their continual costs and charges over burdened, they were also constrained, in the year 1528, which was in the twentieth year of Henry VIII., John Valmer and William Smith, then Bailiffs, (or as I have seen in one record, Robert Alexander and Robert Pierce, Bailiffs,) the fifth time to be- come humble suitors in like manner to His Majesty, to beg leave to cut out another haven, (which was very near if not in the very Parsonage at place, whcre now it hath, and I pray God ever may have, issue. Gorleston '^_ . r j j } > viz., eastward to the Parsonage of Gorleston) ; who, also, besides Digitized by Microsoft® 0itat ^armoutfj.— 1619, 81 granting their suit, released unto them not only fifty marks of the Henry vni. fee-farm for thirty years' continuance, but also all the tenths and h™^'^' ^^" fifteenths which during his reign should be granted unto him ; as, by his release to them made, bearing date the ly"* day of March, in the thirty-seventh year of his reign, and in the year of our Lord 1545, (Ralph Ashley and William Woolhouse, Bailifis) remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth, appeareth. Which work, by the advice of the Master of Mettingham College, (a man in those days in water- works holden very expert,) they also performed: which cost them Cost of the £1,500 sterling. By which these former discourses it plainly appeareth, that Yarmouth lost in its liberties, in ground, little less than four miles, to the southward ; besides that beyond the rails to jos'lssoTeof Grubb's Haven, to the northward. 23ut the stormy winds and seas prevailing, the mouth of that The Haven •' i o^ again stopp'd haven also, which had cost many great sums of money, was thereby choaked and stopped up ; by means whereof they were so impover- ished in their particular estates, that they were utterly unable to continue any longer so insupportable a charge. And yet, consider- ing that they could not live without a haven, which should have a passage into the sea, and the sea into it, they consulted together what was best to be done in so great an extremity : and, thereupon, calling unto them the best advice and counsel they could in all the counties adjoining, as in such a case of importance was most meet : according to the old proverb, " consilio factum, non pesnitef esse per actum'' ^t length they were advised to cut out another haven, a mile sixth Haven nearer to the South Gate of Yarmouth than the former : but before they would begin to attempt the work, like wise master-builders, they did forecast what the charge might amount unto, and how the same should be levied. Whereupon, after many consultations and mature deliberations, holden in the year of our Lord God 1548, it^ M Digitized by Microsoft® 82 Jlans|)ip's llistorg of Ornaments, was lastlv coDcluded, that, whereas the church of S' Nicholas, in plate, goods, &c., bebng- Yarmouth, was then possessed of some money, a great quantity of Nicholas' plate, and many costly oi'naments, (for I read that in a solemn ing to Saint Nicholas* Church sold procession upon the winning of BuUoigne, there was used two-and- forty of the best robes, which sheweth that there were more remaining,) and of vestments, tunicks, albes, amices, and such like furniture, an exceeding number, the same should be sold to make money for that purpose. Not much unlike the example of Henry VIII., (I desire and hope in reverence to speak the truth without offence,) who, in the time of his reign, finding many religious places (monuments of our fore-fathers' piety and devotion) intended to the honour of God, the propagation of christian faith and good learn- ing, and for relief of the poor and impotent, — to wit. Monasteries, Abbies, and Priories, to the number of 645 ; whereof, when Cardinal Woolsey, by licence of Pope Clement VII,, had suppressed forty, the Homes^'""^ King, about the year 1536, (which was in the twenty-eighth year of his reign) did put down 376 more, being such as might dispend £200 per annum. And in the year next following, all the residue, together with the Colleges, Chauntries, and Hospitals, were left to his disposal. At which time, the Religious Houses remaining, being in number 605, were surveyed, valued, and taxed : Colleges there were, besides those in the Universities, 90; Hospitals, 100; Chauntries and Free-chapels, 2,374. All which, for the most part, shortly after, every where were pulled down, their revenues sold and made away, and those goods and riches, which the christian piety of the English nation had consecrated unto God since their first professed Christianity, (albeit much superstition had crept into them) were in a moment, as it were, dispersed and demolished, rased and defaced. Wherein, although there was not any thing done without the providence of the Almighty, (who, in his justice, as well for the particular sins committed in these places, as well as in Digitized by Microsoft® (Sreat iarmautfi.— 1619. 83 the whole land besides,) did permit the same to be ruined, as afore- said ; yet great pity it was, and yet is, that the same were converted to no better uses. Wherein I do not like to tax these townsmen of Yarm" for making sale of those ornaments, which were super- stitiously used, sith great necessity enforced them thereto ; and the money thereof coming, was disposed to good intent and purpose. But to return whence I left. ^S with the church, so the charnel itself, the houses and other contribution "^ ' ' raised for the the rents of the same had like censure ; the bells in the steeple J^^^"™ ^^' were not forgotten ; neither was the hospital of the Blessed Virgin Mary free from taxation : and lastly, the inhabitants of Yarmouth, seeing the necessity of the business, did proffer a free and voluntary offering, and did (as I may speak it to their special commendation) contribute to the work most bountifully ; wherein if I should forget the famous city of Norwich, or the Reverend Fathers of the Incor- poration of Christ's Church there, who, like very kind and loving neighbours, did largely remember the business, I were much to be blamed. All which I have, in a very brief summary, thought good to declare unto you : to the end that not only the age present, but future posterity, may retain in memory (which is a part of thankfulness) what care on the one side, and what love on the other, was performed, to effect a work of such main consequence : £>■ S, a. Particulars First, there was put away in coined gold and silver, and of sums sold in plate, and other rich and costly ornaments and utensils, belonging to the Church of Yarmouth, to the value of 977 6 6 In houses, rents, farms, and utensils, belonging to the Charnel 192 11 5 The number of the Assembly did willingly contribute, (whereof M' W» Bishop gave £20) 109 1 8 Carried forward, £1278 19 7 M 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 84 ilans!)t;)*3 l^tiStors of £ s. d. Brought forward 1278 19 7 of'sums^" The Commons in the South and S. Midd. Wards, gave.. 33 18 4 raised The Commons in the North and N. Midd. Wards, gave . . 31 8 The city of Norwich gave, as by an indenture remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth, bearing date the 5* of July, 1 550, in the 4"> year of King Edward VI., (John Millicent and Nicholas Fenn, Bailiffs,) appeareth .. 133 16 The Dean and Chapter of Norwich, gave 20 Besides in benevolence by strangers, and in goods of the Hospital 206 6 All which do amount to the sum of £1704 7 11 Kett'3 SitfilcSsum of £1,704 7«. lid., being so collected, the 12*'' day of January, in the year of our Lord 1549, which was in the second year of King Edward VI., William Bishop and Simon Moore being Sebeiiion BaiUffs, (the very year in w'^'^ the rebels, Robert Kett and his com- plices at Norwich, the summer following, which was anno 1549, and the third year of that King's reign, troubled this part of England, but more especially this town of Yarm", as hereafter, in place more convenient shall be, God assisting me, declared more Sixth Haven at large,) the town, by licence of the King, the sixth time, cut out another haven, somewhat more than a furlong from the south of Yarmouth, over the Denes aforesaid, which is now commonly called Aids granted ' ' •' fo^ thi nI'J? *^^ " ^^^ Haven ;" to which it pleased His Majesty, in like manner, ^^™° to release all tenths and fifteenths, as his father and grand-father before him had done ; giving them a commission to take up carts, carriages, labourers, workmen, and all things needful for effecting thereof, as by the letters patent, dated the 9* of January, in the second year of his reign, remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth, appeareth. Wherein amongst others, by the means of the Duke of Norfolk then being, (who much respected the good of this town- Digitized by Microsoft® (Bxtat |[armoutfi,— 1619, 85 ship) they most especially used the directions of one M' Thompson, Haven made the Master or Governor of the Almshouse, (or God's House,) in «»" "' '^'^• ' *> ^' Thompson Dover ; whom the said duke, about three years before that, brought with him to Yarmouth, a man very expert in water-works, and one whom the said King Edward VI. highly favoured and greatly rewarded for his service at the Pier of Dover, and whom the ports- men resorting thither, especially for that service, highly commended ; who took the charge upon himself, after a solemn stately procession a procession by the townsmen, and a learned sermon upon that head, by one made before then so called S'' John Bland, minister of the congregation, made are begun before them, for God's blessing to be poured out on their labours ; remembering what the blessed apostle Paul (Philippians, chap, iv., v. 6'\) saith, " in all things let your requests be shewed unto God in prayer and supplication:" knowing it to be true, which S* Ambrose affirmeth, that many little ones, whilst they be gathered together, being of one mind, they be great in the sight of God, with whom it is impossible they should be contemned, or return empty; and, on the le"* January that year, began the work at Yarmouth. Wherein were employed of carpenters, sawyers, masons, diggers, delvers, bearers of sand and callion, carters, and jooworkmen other labourers, 100 persons a day ; who continued working until ^™p^°5"'^ by the said rascally rout of rebels, Kett and his followers, they were letted, and could not work any longer, (not much unlike the mischievous doings of Sanballat, and other his mischievous adher- ents, who, as these, hindered the building of Jerusalem, insomuch that as half of them were fain to hold the spears, shields, bows, and harbergeons, whilst the other half laboured, and the rulers stood behind them, to assist and comfort them) ; who not only wasted and spoiled the provision provided for building the haven, which was an exceeding loss to that township, but also hindered (so did these villainous traitors) the workmen of Yarmouth aforesaid from Digitized by Microsoft® 86 JHans!jiji's fUtstorg of The Works proceeding. And by that means, as I have said, were constrained stopped by , Kelt's men to ceasc from Working, to lay down their tools out of their hands, and, instead of them, to take up arms upon their backs ; and with the magistrates themselves, enforced to keep strong watch' and ward : not only to defend the town against the said rebels without, but also, against their partakers (which were more dangerous) within, defeating them (praised be God) of their rebellious intend- ments. Wife town, notwithstanding, not unmindful of their business. The "Works renewed the next year following prepared ships, and made costly engines for casting out of water, which rose so fast that they could not prevail against it, nor make good foundation, nor do much to further the business : and having now expended their treasure, were constrained to send up M"^ Thomas Betts, then one of the Bailiffs, and M'^ Will" Harborne, to London, to pray the aid of the city ; but that they obtained any relief, I find it not recorded. Yet, notwithstanding, for the better continuance of the said work, in the time of Chrisf Haylett and John Echard, Bailiffs, which was in the year of our Lord God 1553, and in the seventh year of Edward VL, one M'^ Candish, by act of Assembly, was sent for ; who came and pursued the work, and gave direction accordingly. Whereupon, on the 8*'' of June that year, 100 dozen baskets. Implements. 200 bare and 110 dozen shod shovels, were sent for to London, to &c. obtained fromLondon forward the work ; wherein they very painfully and most diligently wrought, therein bestowing their cost and labour : insomuch that on S' Peter's Eve, in the year of our Lord God 1556, Thomas Gardiner and Robert Drawer, Bailiffs, it was by the Common Awemen^fe Council dccrced, that every Four-and-twenty (now Aldermen) find laborers gjiQ^ifj fljjd two men, and every Eight-and-forty one man, till the haven should run forth ; or else to pay tenpence a day for a man. But upon the vigil or eve of S* Paul following, the whole Assembly Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat |[armoutft.— 1619. 87 taking good consideration of the business, and whether it were ^^^^ ^^^^^ better to proceed or to make stay from further working, at length it suspended was by them agreed to stay for that year ; and that the crane, newly built for the work, should be taken down, and safely laid up ; and that the succeeding Bailiifs, by the 10*'^ of March then following, should remember the going forward again, under pain of£lOO: which in the year following, Cornelius Bright and WiUiam Harborne becom- ing Bailiffs^ was performed accordingly. So that, the Wednesday after the feast day of S* Peter, the year following, divers men were, by an act of Assembly, appointed again to renew the work ; who Again returned their opinion, that it was very requisite that another engine, named a Tressel, should be fitted, to strengthen the building. Whereupon it was, also, the Tuesday next after the feast of S' James, then following, at an Assembly then holden, concluded and agreed, that every Four-and-twenty should find an able man, and every two of the Eight-and-forty, find one, until the work should be finished ; and that the same decree should be put in execution on the 29*'^ day of July, aforesaid ; and that Thomas Sand and Reynold Turpin, two honest and painful townsmen, were appointed oversMM of overseers to cause the workmen to attend their labours from six appointed in the morning till six at night ; and that meet engines should be by them made, for the furnishing thereof, and the refuser to be committed to ward. There was a ship then appointed to be sunk, a siiipsunk to stop the haven and course of the tide, and to dam up the mouth thereof, according as they were directed: from that time they ceased from further proceedings therein. But the next year follow- ing, they began again afresh, and so continued, from year to year, working by the space of eight years from the first cutting thereof; at the end of which eight years, after so many trials made, and more than £6,000 of their own money expended, besides those fifty marks for forty years of the fee-farm, granted by Queen Mary, (for all Digitized by Microsoft® 88 MmsW^ f^tstorg of benefactors are worthy remembrance) with all the parliamentary- tenths and fifteenths, during her life remitted, it was found, by too costly experience, (for such is the great variableness and inconstance The Haven of that element, the sea,) that it could never be made a place con- venient for such a purpose : and, therefore, they wholly desisted proceeding therein. ^nb thereupon the town, by the advice of skillful workmen, gave commandment that the same should be stopped ; which, on the 17*"^ day of November, that year, Mdth fir-faggots bound together in bundles, called kybes, was performed accordingly. But yet, within fourteen days following, upon a great rage then happening. The Town the wiud being at the west, brought down the back waters out of the marshes, so vehemently, that it ran over the Quay into the dwelling-houses ; insomuch that men might row up and down the streets, to the no little damage and hearts' sorrow of all the inhabi- tants. The town being now in great extremity, for want of an Jtoppedln'd haven, (which is the very life of the same, and so of many thousands drawn over besidcs,) by the reason that few or no ships could pass in or out, the IDcnss It y without great labour, difficulty, and no less danger; some being constrained with capstans, windlass, and such like engines, to be drawn over the Denes, to pass on ; and other some, to lose their voyages ; whereby the commonwealth of this kingdom was not a little hindered, and the town impoverished. The town, well know- ing that carefulness and diligence, directed by good counsel and sound judgment, are the two keys of certainty, and that without them, no good thing can be effected ; and that nothing is so hard but diligence and labour will bring it to pass ; and that he that addeth a little to a little, and doeth it often, at length maketh a great heap, — after much travail, and mature deliberation, by the space of two years had and taken, with the advice of one M"^ Drury, of Aylsham, and afterwards, of S"^ Thomas Woodhouse, knight, Digitized by Microsoft® BxzKt lamoutfj.— 1619> 89 a special well wisher (as also S"" William his brother,) to the welfare of Yarmouth, they did, by an act of an Assembly holden in Jo'jfsuuaSout the Guild Hall, the 8"^ day of January, in the second year of the ^°'^ Haven reign of our late Queen Elizabeth of famous memory, (Thomas Garton and Allen Coldham, Bailiffs,) elect eight of the most fit and meet persons of that assembly, viz., Robert Drawer, Edmund Moor, John Gross, Henry Manship (my father,) W" Gross, Reynold Tur- pin, John Howse, and Ralph Thompson, to appoint and set down their judgments in what place another haven should be cut out. Who, taking consideration correspondent, did return to the said Assembly, that they held it most meet that the same should be cut out a mile and a half distant from the South Gate, very near unto, if not in the very place, where, in anno 1529, (which was thirty years before) they began it ; which is right over against the east end of the parsonage of Gorleston, and where now it is. This being now in number the seventh haven, or cut, which I have set down unto you, I beseech the Almighty, from the bottom of my heart, even for Christ's sake, that like as he hath comprehended all time, since the creation of the world, in seven days, and himself having created and made all things, rested the seventh day from all his labours, and blessed that day, even so that we, in this seventh work of our haven, may rest and cease for ever hereafter from further working and cutting out of any other new haven, so long as the sun and moon endureth ; and that he will so bless and prosper the works of our hands, that the same seventh haven may, for ever, continue to be a good mean to save the lives and goods of men in safety : that they and we, being therein preserved from peril, may have still more and more just cause to praise his holy name for evermore. Where- unto let all true-hearted Yarmouth men say. Amen, Amen. But to proceed. ■STJe town enduring much trouble, sorrow, grief, and no little N Digitized by Microsoft® 90 JHansIjtiJ's l^tstorg of The Seventh labour, bv rcEson of the want of a haven, (the only means not only and present , , it Haven of cxporting and importing all goods and merchandizes, to the advancement of His Majesty's customs, but also, of all sustenance and maintenance, yea, of the very existence of that township,) on the 2°^ day of March following, calling together the body of the whole town Assembly (as in case of such importance is most meet and necessary,) it was then and there decreed, that all the inhabit- ants whosoever, (shipwrights, who then were in repairing, preparing, and making ready, ships for Iceland and the North Seas, excepted) should go down to the place last appointed, to dig the haven deeper, and cast the mire out of it, the Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, following; which argueth the necessity was very excessive, and their care no less, to expedite the business, when the sabbath day was not spared from labouring in it : yea, so desirous was every one to further the business, that, voluntarily, there laboured of laboura't the ^^^^> w'omcu, and children, to the number of 1,000 persons, whereby ^"°" it plainly appeared, what ardent affection and sweet love, nature hath implanted into our hearts, towards our country, and what conformity of humours is commonly found in our bodies, with that heaven and air where we have our first breathing ; which seemeth to be a mutual and natural obligation — the reason of all human right — and the religion of divine equity : besides, the duty of con- science bindeth all persons to serve the public welfare of their country, to the uttermost of their power; and that, so much the rather, because that under it, the life, honour, and good, of every particular man, is comprehended. And as this is most true in causes generally, yet doth it more move when the benefit redoundeth to each man in particular. Therefore, it would have rejoiced the heart of any man, (especially if he were true-hearted, either to the commonwealth in general, or to the town in particular,) to see the forward disposition, and willing working, of the people : some Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat ^armoutfj,— 1619, 91 standing in water up to the middle, others filling and carrying of baskets ; the magistrates overseeing, with many their brethren and others, encouraging the people, who (knowing that, as he that run- neth for a wager, if he stay in the race, shall never gain the prize, so, themselves, having begun, if they should not proceed, the work would never be effected,) did therefore endeavour, not only with all their mind and affection inwardly, but also, with their bodily strength outwai'dly, to go through stitch in the business. By means whereof, on the 4*'' day of March, following, the waters did successful run forth, and proved a good haven ; insomuch that there was then ten feet at low water, which gave no little cause of rejoicing, not only to the townsmen of Yarmouth, but to all traders alongst the coasts, in that it pleased God to bless their labours, so that every one hoped it would prove a very good harbour in time of distress, as (blessed be God) it hath so done. Whereby the lives and goods of an infinite number of persons have, since that time, (by the special voluntary labour of the inhabitants,) been preserved in safety. Every Bailiff, for his time, taking care (especially in the time of the infancy thereof) to nourish it up with daily labour and attendance : which care, until the present (praised be God) is continued. But to go forward, to declare their proceedings. 23d the decree of the said Assembly, it was, on the 5"* day of Breastwork ^ ■ 111 Till made South the said month of March, ordered that carpenters should be sent of the Haven to make a defence for the stopping of the waters from running forth to the southward, where of long time they had passage, under the clifi" beyond Gorleston ; and also, for that it was a work of main importance, the same was, on the 12"' day of the same month, by like order, agreed to be more and more strengthened. For the better performance whereof, on the Friday next after the annun- ciation of the blessed Virgin S* Mary, it was concluded by the said Common Council, that the rubbish stone of the church, commonly N 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 92 JHansfitjj's ?^istors of Remains of called " Our Lady's Church," on the west of the causeway leading the Church J ^ JO tos^uth'totn *'° Gorleston, should be employed to the strengthening thereof. t™e''H Jven" Which, the town so much labouring to compass, within a few months had so weakened themselves, that, on the last day of July following, certain persons were appointed to travel to Norwich, to require the aid of the city, towards the charge of the said building : which collection, in place convenient, shall be expressed. And on the 12"^ day of December, the year following, being the third year of Queen Elizabeth, (William Garton and Edmund Moone, Bailiifs,) certain persons were sent to S' Thomas Woodhouse, to confer with a stranger of Embden, an approved skillful workman in sea-works, about the proceeding in the business aforesaid ; themselves, in the meantime, not desisting to give their best furtherance for performance. Insomuch that in the year of our Lord God 1562, which was in the fourth year of the said Queen, (Simon Moore and John Parfey, being Bailiifs,) by a special commandment by the said Bailiffs given, by order of the Assembly, to the whole township, (which, with willing South Pier and cheerful mind, they obeyed,) to make up the back of the late strengthened ..,„., pier with fir piles, and sand cast up, to stay the back waters from running further to the southward ; which, by the daily labour of the town and townsmen, was at length effected, and serveth now to very good purpose. And as the work increased, so easier means were daily desired to perform it : and, therefore, on the 9"' of July, 1564, in the sixth year of her said Majesty's reign, (Nicholas Fenn and Nicholas Keene, Bailiffs,) two tumbrels were appointed to be and were made, to carry sand to the said new pier, and the men to have three shillings a day for their labour. Haven house ^xiti ou the 18*"^ day of that month, by order of the Assembly, a house of lime and stone, of 20 feet long, and 16 feet wide, was appointed to be built ; as well for the laying up of the workmen's tools, as for harbour in time of tempest, for all workmen and labour- Digitized by Microsoft® (great larmoutfi,— X619. 93 erSj at the haven aforesaid : which is the northernmost house, on the south side, at the mouth of the haven aforesaid. And to the end that every workman should attend his labour the better, it was decreed, by act of Assembly, in the time of Edmund Baldry and Thomas Smith, Bailiffs, that a clerk of the Check should be a cierk ot -, . It -, *^i6 Works appointed, to give knowledge unto the paymaster of the haven — appointed work of every one's default, and to make an abatement of one penny for every hour defaulting from labour. ®5tS great work being by this time settled in most exquisite order and form, it was thought meet that some expert and skillful workmen should be sought for, the better to proceed in the business. Whereupon, in the year of our Lord God 1566, (Christopher Sills and Benedict Cubit, Bailiffs,) by special means of Henry Manship, (my father,) a certain Dutchman, named Joas Johnson, a man of Engineer very rare knowledge and experience in works of that nature, was brought over to Yarmouth aforesaid ; who, on the 5*^ day of May following, did begin to work on the north side of the haven, where North Ker he caused stakes to be driven into the ground, and so hedged down to the sea-side, to make it firm ground, to withstand the rage of the sea, lest it should overflow, and so spoil the whole work : which no doubt was a most excellent device, and (praised be God) hath taken effect accordingly. And on the 15"^ day of June follow- ing, he wrought, on the south side, (a work worthy of no less south Pier commendation,) laying the foundation thereof within the ground, of huge piles or stakes, and fastening them together in manner of a strong hedge or mound, taking special heed in the making to cast the ebb, and to force the tide to run out to the north-east, to sea- ward : which, (praised be God) hath performed the end to 'which it was destined and appointed, ^tllj, forasmuch as it pleased God to bless their labours, so that by this time, as the work prospered, so did this township Digitized by Microsoft® 94 M^nsW^ l^tstorg of (notwithstanding their great disability of estate,) not spare any expense, labour, or pains, so long as money remained, to speed for- The Town is Ward thc business ; but having exhausted what they were able, that impovens ^^^ ^^^ remained in their treasury ; and men, in their present ability, having been overcharged so deeply, that not any more could be reasonably demanded of them, — whereby, the work, for want of means, was likely to have perished, if speedy means should not be provided to aid and assist them : they thereupon were enforced, anno 1567, in the tenth year of our said late worthy Queen, Eliza- beth, (Ralph Wbolhouse and Thomas Betts, Bailiffs,) to become humble suitors for some relief; who of her princely kindness and The Duties large bouuty, granted unto them a licence for transport of 18,000 remined' "' quarters of wheat, barley, and malt ; whereof was made in money, £1,407 8s. 'Jd.: which being soon disbursed, they were enforced to make suit to the Lords of Her Majesty's most honourable Privy Council, for further aid to be yielded unto them ; whereupon it pleased their honours to grant them their licence to that effect, to the Lord Bishop of Norwich, and Justices of the peace of Norfolk Contribution and Suffolk, who freelv contributed unto them as followeth, viz. towards the ^ ^ j Havea £ s. d. The County of Norfolk 307 10 6 The County of Suffolk 70 14 5 The City of Norwich 85 12 2 The Clergy 39 6 10 Amounting in the whole, £503 3 11 Which sums were collected in the years 1573 and 1574. But, these monies not sufficing, within three years following, they were constrained to sue to Her Majesty for further succour, who did grant unto them, anno 1576, in the eighteenth year of her reign, John Gostling and William Lister, Bailiffs, one other licence for Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat ^[armnutfj,— 1619* 95 transport of 10,000 quarters of barley and malt ; which they sold Further aids for £1,073 5s. 6d. Yet did Her Majesty, much about that time, procure the City of London to lend them £1,000, to be repaid by £200 yearly: which was lent and paid accordingly. Yet so did this continual charge so press this poor township, that in the year 1580, the twenty-second of her said Majesty's reign, (Ralph Wool- house and John Giles, Bailiffs,) they were again enforced to be very earnest suitors to Her Majesty, who, the third time, did grant unto them a licence for transport of 50,000 quarters of wheat, barley, and malt ; whereof there was made of money, £2,720 5s. 8d. Yet, notwithstanding, in four years following, they still being overbur- thened with the intolerable charge, were enforced once more to send up M"^ Henry Stanton, then one of the Bailiffs, with M"" Ralph Woolhouse, one of their ancient brethren, to beg relief of Her Majesty : and upon the 4**^ of August, anno 1584, which was in the twenty-sixth year of her reign, (Christ' Dewe and the said Henry Stanton being Bailiffs,) upon their humble petition. Her Majesty vouchsafed to grant a licence for transport of 40,000 quarters of wheat, barley, and malt ; which was sold for £1,720. Yet, notwithstanding all these helps, they were enforced to sue to Her Majesty within ten years following, which was anno 1594, the thirty-sixth year of her reign, (Roger Drury and Thomas Morti- mer, BaiUffs,) for further favour : she then granted unto them, out of her customs in Yarmouth, £1,000, to be paid by £125 per annum. Moreover, a release from Her Majesty, dated the 17*'' day of January, in the thirty-seventh year of her reign, of 50 marks of the Fee-farm, for forty years' continuance, after her sister Queen Mary's years of releasement were expired ; together, also, with a pardon of acquittal, for the tenths and fifteenths of the 5*S 8*^ W\ IS"", 27*'', 31^', and 35*'", granted unto her by parliament, and then behind and not paid unto her. All which her princely bounty I Digitized by Microsoft® '96 JHansfjip's l^istor^ oi Description of the Haven The Brush North Pier South Pier thought good (or rather, to say truly, my bounden duty) to insert in this place together, to the end that a thankful mind may, therefore, be retained by all Yarmouth men for evermore. But to return back again where I left. I^tre I think it not amiss to set down the form and manner of the haven aforesaid, as the same was, in anno 1575, declared and shewed unto S"" Christopher Heydon and S' William Butts, knights, at such time as they ended the controversy, and set the doles on the south side thereof, for the limits and bounds, before that in question between S' Henry Jernegan and this township. One piece of work on the north part (which I before mentioned, when I spake of the work first made by Joas, the Dutchman,) is made of brush-wood, planks, and piles, and is in length, 265 yards ; in breadth, at the bottom, 16 feet; at the top, 8 feet; which, being in the beginning made for the defence of the sea and sand from coming into the haven, (thanks be to God,) hath and doth take effect accordingly ; and is now become firm ground, and defendeth the north pier of the main work of the haven aforesaid. But the main pier itself, on the north side, is 235 yards in length; the breadth, at the foundation, is 40 feet, and at the upper part, 20 feet ; artificially built of mighty timber trees, joined together very cun- ningly, rampired with brush, millstone, and shingle : it hath three tiers of piles, bound with beams and iron-wicker, to break the force of the sea from the pier itself. The south great jetty, being the stop of the old haven, is 340 yards long, and 10 yards broad ; and is in depth, from the top to the bottom, 36 feet ; whereof 24 feet is under water at every tide ; which, before the building thereof, was but 3 feet deep, and is in like manner, or rather better, builded, rampired, and furnished, than the other. The breadth of the mouth of the haven, between the north pier and the south, is 114 yards. Since which time, the same is infinitely better builded and Digitized by Microsoft® &xmt ^[amotttij.— 1619, 97 enlarged. Both which works, and all the residue, be now performed by Englishmen, no wit inferior, if not exceeding, the former. ^j^e town maintaineth, in daily pay, a master-workman, carpenters, and labourers, sundry surveyors to ride to make con- tinual provision of iron, timber, brush, and faggot-wood, and of mill-stone, callion, and other rubbish, wherewith to strengthen the building ; besides a pay-master and other overseers, who of their own charges do attend the business; by means whereof, (God having blessed their labour,) it is become a very good harbour, bearing upon the bar, at full sea, 17 feet; and hath received in one storm more than 600 sail of ships, crayers, and fisher-boats, which g„„ y^j^^,, otherwise had been very likely to have perished in the main seas, kt onl ttol" for want of succour, as did befall those 50 sail before remembered, when Yarmouth haven was stopped up : as hath been before declared. ®f the goodness of which haven, these several commodities following having ensued, — the lives and goods of infinite numbers of persons preserved in safety, traffic greatly increased, his Majesty's subsidies more than thrice doubled, the townsmen in their par- ticular estates greatly enriched, the number of ships, barks, and vessels, be three times so many as 60 years past they were, — the whole commonwealth of this kingdom is greatly benefitted : for the town doth yearly set to sea, (viz., to Iceland and the North Seas,) The fisheries for killing of cod-fish and lings, about 120 sail of ships and vessels, which do, communibus annis, kill not so few as 500,000 fish ; and as for the taking of herrings, a great number of vessels, together with other resorting thither, kill to considerable value ; and mack- erel, in the spring time, when all victuals be dear,not less than 40 fishers ; whereby not only the city of London, but the counties of Kent, Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridgeshire, and Huntingdon, be very plentifully victualled. Yea, I have heard it very credibly reported, that one M'' John Giles, (whilst he lived, a worthy o Digitized by Microsoft® 98 IHansijip's f^tstor^ of The Leghorn and gi'ave Alderman of Yarmouth, and who was the first and trade opeutd principal merchant that brought the trade of Leghorn herrings from Calais to this town of Yarmouth, whereby it hath not a little flourished, and, therefore, well deserveth remembrance,) brought of^Ml/keiei in One mackerel fair, of mackerel caught in that season, at Yar- mouth aforesaid, so many as 52 weighs of salt were but suiEcient to give them due salting; by which proportion may easily be gathered what quantity was then and there taken, to the bene- fit of the whole country. And 50 or 60 sail of ships and barks, that trade into Italy, the Streights, France, Spain, Flanders, of yarmowh Zealand, Holland, Denmark, Norway, and Russia, which carry forth and bring in merchandizes of great value ; by means whereof, the number of very excellent and serviceable mariners and navigators in that time be more than re-doubled. Moreover, several thousands set to work, especially smiths, shipwrights, coopers, cordwainers, ropers, hoop-makers, spinsters of twine, knitters or (as we com- monly call them) braiders of nets, bakers, and brewers ; besides an infinite number of poor people, which do labour in the very business itself, as in carrying and drying of fish, salting, barrelling, dryings and packing of hiPirings. Lastly, if I should set down the many reclaimed thousands of acrcs of marsh ground that do lie all alongst the level, betwixt the town of Yarmouth on the east, and Buckenham Ferry on the west, the two bridges of S' Olaves and Mutford on the south, and Bastwick Bridge on the north, which, before the haven of Yarmouth was built, was continually overflowed with salt water, yielding very little or no profit ; but now, by the goodness of the haven, be made firm ground, and do bring great revenues to the owners ; which otherwise, would have been^ meeotis palus, a meer, or lake of water and frogs ; whereas, now it may be said of them as of other places, that the sands that before were sundered by the sea, the channels between them filling with mud and sand, are now joined : as one saith, — Digitized by Microsoft® (great llarmoutf}.— 1619, 99 " sterilisve diu palus aptaque remis Horace Ars " Vicinas urhes alit et grave sentit aratrum'' Puet., v. 65 The fen (long barren) being sow'd, doth now Both feed the neighbours^ barns and feel the plough. SSlfiSTfhg it plainly appeareth what inestimable benefit ariseth Advantages to the whole commonwealth, by this haven of Yarmouth. In the relating whereof, let me tell you the judgment of a late very learned writer of this kingdom, touching port-towns. He saith, that these port-towns be most excellent, not only for merchandize in time of peace, but also, for defence and offence in time of war, be most conveniently seated ; of which qualities I have formerly (page 25 of this book,) said something touching Yarmouth : but yet, if you do remember, I promised elsewhere to speak more largely, of which here, as in place most meet, I hold good to make but a brief performance; the rather, for that formerly, and now very lately since, I wrote of the haven, the same having been largely declared unto you. It is reported of Carthage, a famous city of Phrygia, in Africa, that it had besides the walls, a large port or haven, whereby of long time it withstood the whole power of the Roman monarchy ; and that Athens had besides its harbours, many strong ships : w'^'^ be the wooden and best walls of this our realm of England ; for not importance any thing of worldly helps can be more providentially by the wit ° " ^"^ of man devised, nor more wisely performed for the defence of this kingdom, than to have a strong warlike navy, always in readiness, not only to defend our enemies from invading, but also, to offend them before they come to us. For, as the winds be, so be they swift to invade other kingdoms, and mighty (as good experience hath often manifested unto us) to resist all such as shall attempt the like against us : which, (praised be God) this town has always had in readiness. o 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 100 MmsW^ f^tstors o! Jpor at such times as Edward III., in the fourth year of his reign, was making his preparations to ohtain his just right and inheritance to the kingdom of France, it pleased him to direct his writ, or mandate, to know what ships were then in Yarmouth meet Tvar belong- to scrvc him in that expedition: and they were returned to be 91 ingtoYar- . '^ "' mouth temp. Jq numbcr, as in the court rolls of Yarmouth appeareth, — for then, Edwd. III. ' I r ' ^ and long since used to be, all memorable things performed by this township were recorded — but now not any, whereby all the worthy deeds of this township be buried in the grave of oblivion — the more the pity. Also, in the roll remaining in the King's great ward, is The services to be remembered the great and commendable service performed rendered by ° ^ Ed'v!S?iii.'° '^y Yarmouth,; When as the aforesaid King Edward III. won Calais, (which was in anno 1347, and in the twenty-first year of his reign,) this town sent to him, before Calais, 43 ships, well furnished, and manned with 1,075 mariners ; the same being nearly double the number of ships sent by London, which was but 25 in the whole : besides many other sea and land services from time to time per- formed, in the behalf of their sovereign, as not any one town in this kingdom is much to be preferred before it. I find also, by a relation made to our said late sovereign, Queen Elizabeth, the 8''^ rf'shfp""b'e" of April, in the seventh year of her reign, that more than 340 years Yafmm,th past, there were belonging to this town, 80 ships with fore-stages citQR 1225 or castles, and 40 without fore-stages. But, alas, Mc lachrymm, ^reat Plague by the great pestilence which befell in this town, in the twenty- second year of the said King Edward III., (which was the' year after he won Calais,) wherein there died 7,000 persons, so depopu- lated and impoverished was the town, that scarcely in the 200 years following, it could again recover the number of either. But to return. S know it will be very hardly believed, that either this poor corporation, of their own proper costs and charges, could effect a Digitized by Microsoft® ®reat garmout!).— 1619. 101 work of so great importance, or that those owners who did enjoy those marshes, and received so great benefit by them in their yearly revenues, could be so unkind as not voluntarily to contribute to Yarmouth haven most liberally. And above all, I can but wonder that so large a contribution having been granted to the mainten- ?^^™"a™t°'^ ance of the pier at Dover, the necessity of w"'' harbour is no way ylTit^nJm comparable to this haven of Yarmouth, which doth many times, pubucgrants especially in the fishing season, receive more ships and barks, in one tide, than Dover pier doth in six months' continuance: yet hath not poor Yarmouth (other than what is fore-declared) one farthing granted unto it. But, touching Dover, I read that King Henry VIII., with exceeding great labour and £63,000 charge, brought up a mighty pile, (which we call the pier,) where ships might more safely ride at anchor. Moreover, all this kingdom knoweth, that the whole parliament of this land granted a mighty mass of money to the maintenance thereof, to be levied of the subjects ; and which, by the space of many years, they enjoyed : whereas, this poor town- ship of Yarmouth have, at their only costs and charges, (without charging the country, other than as afore-remembered, one penny,) builded and brought the haven of Yarmouth to that pass, that it far excelleth, not only the pier or harbour of Dover, but also of any coast town in this kingdom, that is maintained by the mere con- tinual work and industry of man's labour : and that the burgesses of this town of Yarmouth have been, ever since the fifth year of Elizabeth, (which is now more than forty-eight years past,) so silent in parliament, as never to motion to obtain any act which might benefit that township, whereby they might make the charge more easy unto them. For my own part, full often have I wished, and with my whole heart desired, if so it might stand with the pleasure of the Almighty, and the good liking of his most excellent Majesty, our dread sovereign, that he might with his own bodily eyes behold Digitized by Microsoft® 102 JEansfjip^si ?^istors of the multitude of ships, crayers, and vessels, which, after a storm happening in the time of herring fair, do issue forth of that haven of Yarmouth : which do so overspread the whole sea thereabouts with masts and sails, that a man would think the same to be, (as M' Camden saith of the ships in the Thames,) " a wood disbranched to make glades, and to let in light to see withal :" which, if it might so come to pass, I am verily persuaded that His Majesty would pralse^of Ms esteem Yarmouth as one of the most famous maritime ports of this kingdom. Therefore will I pray for Yarmouth, as did that worthy John Case, for England, in his Sphera Civitatis, folio 619, — O ! my most sweet beloved native town of Yarmouth ! I do rejoice from the bottom of my heart that thou hast such an excellent spacious haven, wherein so many ships may so safely harbour ; and hast so strong a navy ; and art so strong a town ; so armed with walls, towers, citadels, and forts, adjoining upon the sea : thou art not great in quantity, but strong and valorous ; small in compass, yet, (blessed be God) in great security. Thou art, as it were, a little island, and yet, by God's help, invincible. Be thou well assured, if thou hear the word of the Lord, delivered by his ministers from heaven, and wilt -be ruled thereby, and be thankful, the Lord will prefer thee far above other towns ; he will be thy shield and buckler, from foreign invasions and intestine commotions. Therefore, I beseech the Almighty, for his Christ's sake, that all that conspire against thee may perish, and that whosoever wisheth evil to thee, or go about to work thee harm, may be confounded, for evermore. Amen. ©j&tS goodly monument being thus, at the great costs of this poor township begun ; and with no less care and diligence by them hitherto continued; and effecting the several unspeakable benefits before recited : what unkind and uncharitable neighbours, or rather cruel enemies, are they to be accounted, both to the whole Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat i[arntout!j.— 1619* 103 land, this township, and themselves, that go about to wrong Yar- mouth in their due rights, lawful liberties, and long continued privileges ; which be the only means whereby the same was begun, until this present hath been, and hereafter is to be, continued, and without which it must needs come to utter ruin and decay. Let any man of knowledge consider indifferently, and then give judg- ment accordingly. ^ni now, gentle reader, having acquainted thee not only with the private, but also with the most costly and chargeable public buildings, of that poor township ; I call to remembrance, what for- merly, in pages 25 and 26 of this treatise, I promised to perform F„ur„q„i. unto you, touching those four commodities which Yarmouth, and tiw^s'shouid every well founded corporation, should and ought to possess ; which ^°*^*^^ are, a wholesome air; fitness for war; meetness for traffic; and waters convenient. The first and last, I then told you, do concern the town itself; the second, enemies ; and the third, the common good of all the dwellers in it. 'STouC^tng the first, the question is whether those towns, seated AtoospLw to the north and east, be more wholesome than those to the south and west. To the first, thus it is resolved : that wholesomeness chiefly dependeth upon two elements — air and water ; the one con- cemeth the vital, the other the natural, parts of the body ; for what mortal creature can live without breathing, eating, and drinking ? So that, if the air be pure and subtle, the spirits be refreshed ; but if impure and gross, the heart, which is the fountain of life, is soon stifled, whereby the whole body soon perisheth. And although, by the secret will of God, there is no nation so temperate, but that it i^ subject to corruption of air, when his Divine Majesty shall be pleased therewith ; yet most certain it is, and all cosmographers and astrologers do conclude, that air be more pure from corruption which is purged by the east winds. The reason is, for that the first Digitized by Microsoft® 104 Mmsijifs f^istors of light of heaven, and the first rising of the sun, is from the east ; which, therefore, first in the east doth disperse the mists and vapours from off the earth, whereby it purgeth and cleanseth the air ; and the beams of the sun following, do make all things fruitful and East Winds pleasaut. And, as Constantine saith, east winds be wholesome in the most , wholesome the bcginmng of the day, for they come of air that is subtle and temperate ; and that the air of east lands and countries is clear and pure, and also dry and temperate, between cold and moist ; there- fore, such a wind maketh waters clear, and of a good savour, and they keep and save bodies in health by temperature of their quality : also rivers and streams that run eastward, and enter into the east sea, be better and more wholesome, and more clear, than the others ; for by meeting of east winds, and by beating and rebounding of the sun in his rising, waters be made clean and clear. But to ground neither upon astrologers, astronomers, or cosmographers, the very word of God approveth it : for Paradise, or the garden of Eden, where our first parents were placed, and the land of promise which did flow with milk and honey, are said to be seated in the saiubrityof east. Now, this town of Yarmouth being built north and south, Yarmouth _ ° ' in the whole longitude thereof, doth spread itself directly alongst the east, taking thereby, as it were, a full possession of the benefit before remembered. It must needs, therefore, be concluded that Yarmouth is a town as wholesome for situation, as any town in this kingdom. For further confirmation whereof, myself have known many, which by the advice of very expert and learned physicians, have been sent from Cambridge to Yarmouth, there to remain to take the air of the sea : whereby they have recovered health very speedily. 5owns for JF"'^ *^^ second, which is fitness for war, it is the opinion of ttme"of war Arlstotle, that a city or town must be so built that it may be accommodated to the actions both of peace and war : for war, that Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutfj,— 1619. 105 the townsmen may make sally forth with ease, and the enemies not be able to approach, to batter or besiege it, without great diffi- Y„n„„uth culty, pain, and peril. Truly, for my own opinion, I am of the pface ot de* mind that if the philosopher himself had been present, before the °"°° first stone was laid for foundation of Yarmouth, he could not have planted it more conveniently in situation, nor builded it in manner more artificial, nor with matter more substantial, (whether a man respect the seemly beauty of private houses, or the stately magni- ficence of public buildings, together with the wholesome site or pleasing prospect thereof,) than this famous and worthy town of G' Yarmouth. Neither are there wanting natural fences of defence of the same : but to speak more properly, the God of nature, as desirous to make it more strong, hath long since fortified it with such shoals and shelves in the sea, which do so encompass the same, shoais ot Sands as it were, with a double ridge and range of sand, which do lie hidden (so perilous for sailors,) under the waters, that the enemy cannot (even in "the day-time, and with most skillful pilots,) ap- proach near, by seven or eight miles, to hurt it. ^nil here, speaking of sands, do I think good for three special reasons (the first, to shew the great work of the Almighty; secondly, the carefulness of M"" Ralph Woolhouse, and M"^ John Giles his co-partner, Bailiifs, to benefit the township, and to further to the uttermost of their power the good of the same, according as to the oath and duty of every well-minded magistrate appertaineth ; thirdly, the careful skillfulness and skillful carefulness of M"" Jeffry Whitney, sometime the under Bailiff" of this Incorporation,) to set. down unto you one special business which was done in the year of their bailiwick, which befell A" D°' 1580, in the twenty- second year of good Queen Elizabeth, touching the said sand called Scrat- scratbysand by Sand ; as the same in the roll of that year, is there in Latin learnedly recorded, beginning, " porro secundo die" &c. Thus in English. — P Digitized by Microsoft® 106 ilang^tp's ?§istor2 of AnhO 1S80 The Bailiffs and others dine upon the sand Barnes ofth( iParties who dined there " ^orroSrr on the second day of the month of August, this present year, as " the bailiffs with a respectable company as well of knights as gentlemen, and " other expert men, together with certain of the wisest and most discrete bur- " gesses associated, passed over the sea into a certain new island, three miles " distant from the town, lately arising on the north part opposite to Scrotby, " and by constant blowing of the winds, gathered and heaped up of sand ; where " they all dined together, and afterwards upon the same bowled, and gave it the " name of Yarmouth- Island. And because they hoped the same would be, in " time to come, enlarged by the constant blowing of the winds, and for that " cause be the greatest help and succour to fishermen, mariners, and all persons " sailing by the same course ; therefore they enclosed the upper part of the same " with a hedge, whereby the same being retarded, the heap and mass of the " same would be the sooner accumulated into a huge bulk, and by degrees grow " and become firm land : that, by divine assistance, in a short space of time, ships " riding about the same would be preserved, and kept from the most violent " storms, in their voyages, as in a haven free from every danger. The length of " which said island then by estimation contained almost a mile. "%^Z names of those, as well gentlemen, as burgesses, and seamen, who then " entered the aforesaid island, follow. JSatliffS— aaljii) miaa\\)mie antf Siol&ii i©tT«g S' A. Haveningham, br' S' Ralph Shelton, br' S"- R. Woodhouse, br' Edm'' Flowerdewe, esq' Sergeant at Law Thomas Tasburgh, esq' Tho' Blenerhassett, esq' Philip Woolhouse, esq' Henry Appleyard, esq' John Shelton, esq' Ichingham Everard, esq' Owen Rowes, esq' Rioy Loveday, gen' Francis Traver, gen' William Dawning, gen' John Knevet, gen' John Bladded, gen' Thomas Robinson, gen' Thomas Seaman, gen' M' Charles Calthorpe, Steward of Yarrn" M' William Hareborne M' John Wakeman M' Ralph Thompson M' John Felton M' Thomas Damett M' John Greenwood M' Jefi'ery Whitney M' Henry Manship M' Jn" Smith, the elder M' John Boulden M' Thomas Cottey M' Thomas Moniman M' John Reed M' Richard Smith M' John Dick M' John Hingham M' Matthew Crabb M' James Robinsoa M' Richard Dart M' Thomas Falkener M' Richard Clack M' William Green M' Richard Newton M' Henry Fuller Sali Deo honor et gloria in ' Delongmg to nance of the same being placed upon the wall thereof, do scour the scouTs°th"e roads before it, that not any ships can there ride to annoy it; the '°*''^"'"* experience whereof I myself can well approve and witness, when p2 Digitized by Microsoft® 108 WmsW^ H fetors 0^ 50 years past, viz., the G"" May, A" D°' 1569, (Thomas Garton and ,_^ John Wakeman, Bailiffs,) three tall barks, or men of war, whereof Three s)i|ps 3 7/ 7 a roadf com!'' was admiral, or captain, Edmund Babington, of another, Pyper, §■0™ guns'' and of the third, Ashley, were captains, (who had much wronged the subjects of Her Majesty, T mean of our late Queen Elizabeth,) riding in the roads aforesaid, being sent unto by the said Bailiffs, to shew their commissions, refused : for in truth they had not any, but that only they pretended to have a letter of mart, or marque, from Chatillon, the Admiral of France ; which, by a proclamation from our said Queen, was long before that time restrained, recalled, and made void. Whereupon the town having bent their ordnance, discharged them against them, and with a sacre from off the walls, did strike the admiral half a yard above water ; whereby they were enforced to remove without gun shot : but the same ship there receiving her death wound, in few days after perished upon Urry; for which, Joan his wife, made complaint to the Lords of Her Majesty's Council, who, hearing the case, dismissed her, commend- ing the Bailiffs for their good service ; and the other two departed without any more harm doing. Yea, Yarmouth being so seated upon the main ocean, as hath been before declared, is continually much subject, especially in time of hostility, to foreign invasion. For I do find that on S* Andrew's day, being Sunday, in the year of our Lord 1544, in the thirty-sixth year of Henry VIIL, (WiUiam Burrows and Thomas Echard, Bailiffs, open wars being between Sed'^br" England, France and Scotland proclaimed,) two crayers being in LTreVaken Yarmouth roads, loaden for Bulloigne with wheat for the service of byt eTown jj.^ Majesty, two French ships, in the time of divine service, them boarded and carried with them : whereof the town having know- ledge, presently betook themselves to armour, wherewith they manned a ship, which pursued and overtook them ; and after not- able skirmishing they rescued the prizes, and brought six of the Digitized by Microsoft® (^reat larmout^.— t6l9> 109 Frenchmen found in them, prisoners to Yarmouth ; where their purses paid passage before their depai'ture. The like I find in a brief reportary, written by the ancestors of John Stevenson (one of the Common Council.) which he friendly lent me : which also is con- firmed and more at large expressed by the like in the custody of M'' John Coldham, — that in the night season, towards the morning of S' Paul's day, in the year of our Lord God 1546, which was in the thirty-seventh year of King Henry VIIL, (Ralph Ashley and William Woolhouse, Bailifis,) three French ships came into the Grayer taken roads of Yarmouth, where they took a crayer loaden with coals, and i>y French ' ^ >! •' shipi of war SO departed ; but the town presently drawing down two brass pieces to the sea side, shot at them, w"'' they little regarding, returned the like to the townward, but (thanks be to God) hurt not any : where- upon the Bailifis commanded two sacres to be drawn right against themj which pierced them through, which caused the Frenchmen to return shot again, but very sparingly. The townsmen, notwith- standing, not being in the meanwhile idle, with all vigilant quickness and quick vigilancy, manned a ship in most warlike manner, speedily furnished her, with 30 boats more, to pursue them ; when a long time was sore fight continued betwixt them. The Englishmen at length, thinking to board them, their ship grounded; into which the Frenchmen often played with their guns among them; and although they poured on the boats great store of small shot yet (praised be our good God) did not hurt any : but in continuance the Frenchmen finding themselves overmatched, and that the town ordnance did gall them so much, and killed so many of their men, they yielded. Then did the boats board them, took the ships, and brought to land two of them, (the one of them named the Henry, the other the Lion, both of Dieppe,) but the other perished on the French 'sMps Newarpe; and took 120 Frenchmen prisoners, but retained only soners are "' 1,1 1 . .,, taken by the 20 of them, who were m several men s houses kept prisoners, till Town Digitized by Microsoft® 110 Jlansfjtji's l^istorg 0! afterwards they were ransomed. In the fight were slain 16 French- men, and many more maimed and hurt in the battle. Which two French ships so taken, were, the next year following, by the town, rigged and prepared for His Majesty's wars, and did him most worthy service : for which the town received special commendations. Means of J¥lolftot)£r, the town itsclf is so encompassed with water, and Yarmouth ^jjg ggjj thereof so sandy, that it is neither subject to undermining nor rowling of trenches. It hath likewise between the sea and the town, a spacious distance, whereon to darreign an army, sufficient to withstand the enemy from landing, (as hath been before declared,) who may for the most part retire within the walls ; the towers, turrets, citadels, mounts, and ravelins, being planted with great ordnance, and furnished with artillery, (whereof they have continually great plenty in readiness,) do so serve to scour and cleanse the Denes (or Downs) of Yarmouth, that not a man, were he as little as one of S"^ John Mandeville's dwarfs, (who, as is reported — believe it that will — do ride upon sheep to encounter with cranes,) can escape their forces. Therefore, I may very well conclude, and all that know Yarmouth, or shall read what is here written, will consent, that it is very necessary that such a town as this is, standing as it doth, should have substantial enclosures, ordnance, shot, powder, men, and munition, sufficient, as well to defend the inhabitants within, as to withstand the enemy from attempting any thing against them without. Yarmouth iF"^ *^^ third, touching traffic by sea, as merchandizing and for"tTa fflc""' fisher-fare, and all other marine causes, it is as commodiously seated as any town in this kingdom : for it bordereth upon the main ocean which divideth England and the Netherlands asunder, and is not above four furlongs distant from it ; whereby it enjoy eth the better abundance of all necessaries that either Holland, Zealand, France, Flanders, or any the northern or southern regions do send from Digitized by Microsoft® 0rrat farmout!}.— 1619. Ill amongst them ; being, as it were, in the trade-way for all these people to pass by. And where men, for the most part, shall feel more winds blowing than nightingales singing ; as one saith truly : " The winds there he, are very shrill ; And singing birds, they be as still. £ut good winds Yarmouth more avail. Than chirping birds do tongue or tail." But of this more largely and fitly, when I shall write of the haven of Yarmouth aforesaid, where I shall have just occasion to speak of it more particularly. I therefore, here desist from the third, and, by God's help, will proceed to the fourth commodity, before remembered. 'STouC^ing waters : although the town itself be encompassed Yarmouth .11 _ lias good With salt waters, on the east, south, and west parts, which almost water insulateth the same, (for it hath continent to the north only, as hath been before declared unto you,) and in the summer season doth make brackish many of the springs within the walls thereof, yet is there, notwithstanding, both within and without the walls (as you have heard) very good and sweet waters, as well to brew as to wash with ; contrary to that which one writes of Salisbury, — " JEst ibi defectus lymphcs sed eopia cretce." No water there, either good or bad ; £ut chalk enough is to be had. Whereas, Yarmouth, contrarywise, (praised be God) may well say touching waters, — A blessing great it is, doubtless. That water sweet we do possess ; For man and beast it stands in stead. And help us all in time of need. WiXlia this town do flow three great rivers, or common streams. The one called Hier, taking his head from Gernstone, as I have ^'™' ^^" Digitized by Microsoft® 112 ilansfjip's History of R. waveney before remembered. The other, called Waven, from out of a marsh- ground by Lopham Ford taketh her course by divers ways ; which whilst it passeth by Bungay and Beccles, (two market towns in Suffolk,) draweth nearer to the sea, and striveth to make a two- fold issue into it, the one near Lowestoft, by the Meer Luthing, — which maketh a pretty big demi-isle, or bye-land, (which some name Loving Land, others, more truly, Lothingland, of this lake Luthing near Lowestoft, aforesaid,) but prevaileth not, although the Lowestofians, not long since (a very bold and mighty attempt,) essayed to make this excursion accordingly ; for which, many of them were, by his Majesty's Justices, worthily punished : and the other issue meeteth with the river Hier, or Yare, aforesaid, at the place commonly called Norwich Water-mouth ; where, disburthen- ing itself into it, both Hier and Waven, in a mixture, do most lovingly (under the name of Hier) keep company together eastward ; Breydon and do through Baradin, or contractedly, Braiden, (a fruitful Butt- RiverThyme fish rivcr,) pass to Yarmouth, aforesaid. The third, called Thirn, which hath its first spring near Holt, (a market town in this county,) st.Bennet's ^"^^ ^^ passcth by Blickliug, Ludham, the Bishop's seat of Norwich, " ^^ and by many windings, creeks, and turnings, to S* Bennet's in the Holm, (a great abbey, built by Knute the Dane, so strongly that it could not be won by the Conqueror, until a monk of that house, betrayed it, to be made Abbot thereof, which was performed unto him ; and he, this new Abbot, immediately banged for his treason ; a meet guerdon for such a piece of service) ; from hence it passeth to Clippesby, Stokesby, and so by the streams, which are commonly called the North Waters, to Yarmouth, aforesaid. Fishing Setts ^IlX which Said three rivers be thirty-six setts, or stations, for fishermen ; which yearly, time out of mind, on the Monday next after S* Barnaby the Bright, be freely granted by the Bailiffs of Yarm" to several fishermen, by them to be used the year following, paying Digitized by Microsoft® ©rcat larmoutij,— 1619. 113 the Chamberlains one penny for recording ; the names of which I have thought good in this place to express unto you. In the river Hier, which extendeth ten miles, (viz., from Yarmouth to Hardley Cross,) there be these nine several setts following : — Norwich Water-mouth Thorough Dyke Kingsholme Bars Gates' End Stakes Abraham's Bush Reedham Key Tyld House Hardley Cross stations in the River Yare Stations in the River Waveney Barge House Huke's Fleet Cross in the Sands Caister Hills Chink Church Balls Short Reach Wessen Sett stations in the River Bure In the river Waven, which leadeth from S* Olave's Bridge to Yar- mouth, (whose extent is also ten miles,) there be eight setts : viz.. Lady's Haven Highland Umney Bridge White Cote Bush Michaelmas Dyke Prior's Key Burgh Castle Fritton Sett The river Thyme, commonly called the North Water, which extend- eth itself from Yarmouth to Weybridge, and is of like distance from Yarmouth as the other, and hath in itself the twenty-one setts, following : Mautby Coate Herringby Bush Little Star Bush Cleers' Fleet Braben Bush Tunstall Fleet Runham Score Stokesby Ferry Great Star Bush Muck Fleet Runham Dam Pye Stakes Little Sett Prior's Key Which several setts, so freely demised, be great benefit to the poor fishermen, who have them granted unto them. For the granting which setts great suits were moved from time to time, by the owners Dispu* of the ground where the same be situated : for that they would exact of the fishermen, for pitching their poles, what they pleased, to the great trouble of those fishermen that them used, until at length by means of the town of Yarmouth, a commission was directed unto the Right Rev* Father in God, the Bishop of Nor- commissloa wich, S' Christopher Heydon, S-- W" Butts, and M' Drue Drury ; Q respecting Digitized by Microsoft® 114 JHansfjiji's l^tstors of it was, by them decreed, the 13*'' day of September, 1577j in the nineteenth year of our late Queen Elizabeth, (Augustin Pierce and John Felton, Bailiffs,) that the fishermen should pay to every such owner, for pitching their poles, one quarter of Brewell Eels only : as by the same decree under their hands and seals, at this present remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth, appeareth. The Bailiffs ^ItlJ to the cud that good order may be, in and by the same of the river watcr-liberties, the better preserved, the Bailiffs for the time being, liberties ' . . . . two several days in the year, with many of their ancient brethren and others of the society, the Inquest of the Liberties, Musicians, and other officers, on them attending, — with banners and ensigns displayed, sometimes with sound of trumpets, beating of drums, playing of fifes, and otherwhiles sweetly singing, — do pass on these waters, carrying scales, or 62 brass measures with them, to try if the nets of the fishermen be lawful : when, if they be not, they be punished according to the quality of the offence committed^ Both Bailiffs taking their course together the first day, till at Nor- wich water-mouth they take leave of each other ; the senior Bailiff to S' Olave's, the junior to Hardley Cross : where either of them, after " O ! yes !" thrice made, do make proclamation, the tenor whereof ensueth : — The Procla- mation " StO^n Greenwood and George Hardware, Bailiffs of the borough and liberty of " Great Yarmouth, having the administration of royal justice, in the name of our " sovereign lady the Queen's most excellent Majesty, strictly charge and com- " mand that all manner of fishers, fowlers, and passengers, being in Her Majesty's " streams, from the port of Great Yarmouth unto the place of Hardley Cross, " shall fish, fowl, and pass by the said stream, from time to time convenient and " lawful, from place to place, with all manner of lawful craft or tew, concerning " fishing and fowling, provided and made by the Queen's Majesty and her noble " progenitors, for the due exercising of the same without any manner of inter- " ruption, let, or gainsaying of any manner of person or persons. And if any " person or persons, in times past, have broken or infringed our said liberties, " contrary to this our proclamation, you shall do us to wit, and present theii- names. Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larwoutfj,— X619, 115 " Jttrt^f r, in Her Majesty's name, we charge and command you, and every of Fiahennen i«ni- iii> 1 „,rotto use " you, that ii you do know any person or persons, that do Irequent and use to nsh illegal net " any manner of unlawful craft, engine, or nets, other than is lawful and good, " whereby the fry of fish in the said river anj streams should be hindered, and " utterly destroyed, to the great hinderance of the liege people, you shall do us " to wit of them, and present their names. " SlliSo, if there be any person or persons, that straiteneth the streams with ^°y commit " stakes, muck, or sunk boats, or casteth or putteth any manner of carrion into encroacu- ' ' r J ments, or " the same waters or sti-eams, as dead horses, neat, swine, or any other such offences, &c. " like dead carrion, corruption, or filth, whereby the same rivers, waters, or streams " be annoyed, corrupted, or the Queen's people hindered or damaged withal, you " shall do us to wit, and present their names. " 9nS, if there be any person or persons that driveth or setteth the water with " any blind stakes, or causeth any boat or boats to be drowned or sunk in Her " Highness' said streams, whereby her liege people may any way be annoyed or " hindered, you shall likewise do us to wit, and present their names. " drurtl)£r, if there be any person or persons, that breaketh or robbeth any man's " tanks, or stealeth any man's fish out of any man's nets or leaps, or maketh any " assaults, afirays, or draweth any blood of any man, upon the Queen's said " streams, or otherwise doth misuse himself, contrary to the Queen's Majesty's " laws, you shall do us also to wit, and present their names. IThen making an' O J Yes,' say, — ] " 9ntr, if any manner of person or persons can inform Mr. Bailiffs or this jury " charged and sworn, of any trespass or misdemeanour done and perpetrated " contrary to this proclamation, let them come forth, and they shall be heard. " God save the Queen .'" Which proclamation being ended, that dinner which their kind^roWdef wives in most bountiful sort have formerly provided, is then prepared to set before them : where, in their boats, after thanks given to God for the enjoying of their liberties, they do jocundare cum amicis, each Bailiff in his return meeting the other where they last parted asunder. And so passing together, they do with great applause of the people, and shooting of ordnance, set foot on land again at Yarmouth: each Bailifif taking his company with him, where p 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 116 llansfjtp's f^istorg of A Supper if any cheer, in their boats, upon the waters, was wanting at dinner, the same at their houses, be largely supplied at supper. The day following, the Bailiffs, both in one boat, with two or three others on them attending, pass to Weybridge aforesaid ; where_, performing as in the day precedent, there is an end of the business. Towards The Bailiffs . allowed 30s. whosc charges the town disburseth only thirty shillings : which is, for expenses o J J tD y ^ in very deed, a very diminutive allowance for a superlative expense : therefore, in regard I have often been thereof a partaker I wish them a larger recompense. The River ^ttlj in thesc three rivers, not only great plenty (praised be God) offish from time to time is taken, but also great quantities of goods, wares, and merchandizes, be daily conveyed into and from the body of the land; to the great benefit not only of that town- ship, but also of both the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk ; adjoining, for, — There Waven, Hier, and Thyme, all three to Yarmouth fast do come, To yield to it their service due ; and then they sea become. These rivers all to thee send fish, O ! Yarmouth, well we see ; And Breydon broad, doth not disdain to bring good Butts to thee. Concerning '2D|&jr£fore,sith wc are now describingthe situation of Yarmouth, with the several commodities which the Lord, in his mercy, hath vouchsafed to bless that township withal, the special element of water above all other is to have preferment ; for nature doth not any where more delight herself, than in them to shew her wonders. Again, so great is the necessity of water in general, that, without the moisturing thereof, neither can plant fructify, nor yet beast, fish, fowl, or man himself, live or have continuance. It seemeth therefore, that God created it, not only for a necessary element to the perfection of nature, but also for a most ready means to conduct and bring goods from one country to another: for his Divine Majesty, willing that men should mutually embrace each other as Digitized by Microsoft® (Sreat iarmout]^.— 1619, 117 members of one body, divided each nation in such sort, that not to any one hath he given all things, to the end that, other nations having need of us, and we of them, there might grow a community, and of a community love, and of love an unity between us. For, as with man (the world's epitome) one member hath need of another, and the more noble parts cannot, without the assistance of the baser, execute their office or faculty, — so in the great world. Providence hath severally dispersed her graces and blessings to several coun- tries that, standing in need of each other's help, there might be a sociable negociation, and friendly consociation between them ; according as Aristotle, in his Prol. Book 2°'^, saith, " nulla regia aut respublica ex omni parte sibi sufficiens" Hence it is, that leagues are made between states, for the mutual supplement and support one of another : which to effect the easier, be produced this excellent element of water, which, being of a gross matter, is able to bear great burthens, and, through the liquidness thereof, helpen with the wind, oars, and such like instruments, fit to convey them whither they please, with facility : so that by such good means the east becometh the west, and the north the south ; insomuch that a man may truly say, that whatsoever grows in one place, grows also in another ; and all, by the easy means of water (provi- vided by our good God) do come to them ; for thus great carriages are brought from countries most remote, with rare ease and speedi- ness, and less charge and labour, by water than by land. The hard winter, which befell anno 1607, (when all the said three rivers 'tmlmlt" were so frozen, that by the space of forty days there could not any goods, wares, or merchandize, be conveyed by water, but by land only,) did verify the old proverb, "A benefit doth more appear in time of wanting, than of enjoying the same •" for at that time did men pay more than 245. for carriage of that by land, from Yarm° vejance"™ " to Norwich, which, by water (if the river had been open) would Digitized by Microsoft® 118 JKans!j{p*g Wtistax^ of have been carried as well, if not better, for less than Is. Ad. Which commodity of water, Yarmouth as aforesaid, enjoying so abund- antly, it is a great means, as the philosopher saith, (God giving his blessing thereunto) to make it a flourishing township ; which, that it may so do, I conclude with these short rhymes, — Sith water then such plenty brings, let us he glad always, And render thanks to our good God, and give his name the praise : Who in his mercy hath vouchsafed to grant to us such store, That such relief we reap thereby, as we can wish no more. ■^D^tS town is in regard of the people, civil ; for entertainment TheAuthor's « , r i praise of his ot straugcrs, courteous; tor the sea, commodious; for the rivers native town meetmg, pleasant ; in fish plentiful ; and in traffic to foreign parts, famous. Therefore of all the maritime towns of this kingdom it may truly be said of Yarmouth, as Leland writeth of Nonesuch, in this wise, — " Sane, quia non habent similem laudare Britanni, Sespe Solent Jernemuthce parem, cognomine dicunt." The Britons oft are wont to praise this place, for that, through all The realm, they cannot shew the like ; and Yarmouth they it call. And justly may it be said of Yarmouth, as Thucydides did of Athens — that it was Greece of Greece, or, as one would say, the quint-essence of Greece, — so Yarmouth, of all the coast towns of England, may be said to be the very quint-essence of England. What should I say more ? " Eloquar aut sileam, gravis est in utroque querela." J^ speak I do, I shall offend ; If silence keep, it will not mend. If it be lawful for me to use the word of Pliny, " superfluit," it surmounteth. To conclude this point, let this suffice, to say of Yarmouth, as Pomponius Mela did of Athens, aforesaid, — " Clarior est quam indicare egeat," Digitized by Microsoft® ©rmt iarntotttlj.— t6l9> 119 More excellent it is, doubtless, Than need is here to express. But now, lest in writing the worthiness thereof, I should make my pen my prisoner, I will proceed to speak a little more of the situa- tion thereof. ■^rje very seat of that town doth more nearly and properly The-Herring adjoin to that part of the sea coast, where now be the fishing streams and the very sea of herring : and the usual trade of killing of them has been found yearly, about the feast of S' Michael the Archangel^ for more than 600 years, far above any other sea coast town within this realm of England, or in any part of the world beside. Whereunto agreethM"^ Camden, in his Britannia, (fol. 478) and the like affirmeth our neighbours of Lowestoft, by their bill exhibited against this town- ship, unto the honourable court of Parliament, anno 39° Elizabethae: for it may seem incredible how great a fair is here at S* Michael's Herring Fait yearly holden ; what a huge multitude of people from all parts of England, France, Holland, and Zealand, do resort thither, and what store of herrings is here bought and sold in that season. Whereunto let me add another authentic witness, — the large volume, called the Theatre, by John Speed, imprinted in the year 1611, who saith, in the IS*'' chap, of that book, folio 35, that there (meaning this town of Yarmouth) is yearly, in September, the worthiest herring fishery in Europe; which draweth a concourse of people, and maketh the town much the richer all the year. Wherefore, con- cerning the herrings there taken from the 1^' of September until the last of November, which, swarming in sculls about the shores, they are there garbaged, salted, hanged, and dried, and, by infinite numbers, transported into the Levant and Mediterranean Seas, where they be very good chaffer, and right welcome merchandizes, — it may be rightly said, as one Michael, a Cornish poet, wrote of Cornwall respecting pilchards, — Digitized by Microsoft® 120 Jlansl)ip*s History of " I need not here report the wealth wherewith enriched it is. And whereby always to sustain poor folks, it doth not miss. No coast elsewhere for that and fish so plenteous is, I wis." of^acif'the ^^^ ^^ ^® Undoubtedly true, that, to make a city or town populous or piolplrity'* ^^^^> ^^ great, (next to the blessing of the Almighty) is to have some merchandize in it, that is in especial request, and vendible in all places, and that is more excellent there than in any place v^rhat;- soever : as cloves in Moluccas, salt in Cyprus, wine in France, wool in England, velvet in Genoa, cloth of gold and silver in Milan, scarlet in Venice, and herrings in Yarmouth, where they be so excellently and artificially handled, dressed, and trimmed, as not in any other place of the world again. And here (by way of merriment) let me remember to you, an odd conceit of a late pleasant-pated L^'mstufe'po^^} who, making a catalogue of national gods or patrons, (as S' Dennis for France, S' James for Spain, S' Patrick for Ireland, S' George for England,) he then termeth Red Herring to be the titular god of Yarmouth. And, in very truth, God by them hath so blessed Yarmouth, that thereby it is right well defended from the penurious pains of pinching poverty, which otherwise would long since have piercingly impoverished the same. But to return to good earnest. SSEj^eit such abundance is, if no means should be used to vend them into foreign parts where want is, this town would soon be ruinated ; for all England will not spend the one half of them that be there taken. But by the means that is used these several commodities ensue : the commonwealth is greatly benefited ; for of ships, crayers, and fisher-boats, belonging to the Boats & Men Said towuship, there be not so few as 220; of able mariners and the Herring fishermen, not less than 1,000 ; and of herrines taken to the value Fishery /. , i i of many hundred thousand pounds, whereof the greatest portion be yearly transported into most parts of Christendom. Yea, it is Digitized by Microsoft® 0reat larmout!i.— X619, 121 supposed by ancient experienced fishermen, that great sculls (or Herring shoals, as some call them,) of herrings do swim the whole year thereabouts ; which, in our grandfathers' days, kept their station, in the summer season, (at w* time they be very fat and best liking,) about Norway, but now, by the mercy of God, are lately come to Yarmouth ; which have caused the fishermen to prepare them- selves to the seas (of late more timely than heretofore they have done,) yearly about midsummer. Whereas, by the space of many years, God sent a great fishing of herrings, to the great profit of the fishermen, and the no little benefit of the whole realm besides ; for eight and ten goodly herrings have been there sold for a penny : ^f"ten\or to which said late-found fishing, great numbers of French, Flemish, ™^ ^^""^ and western vessels, did very lately yearly repair, not much inferior to winter fishing. But, as S' Bernard saith, God doth then staj- his bounty when man beginneth to be unthankful : for some then were, that, being discontented with the free use of these his goou creatures, would needs have a law be made, that not any of them should be salted and dried with fire, under pain of forfeiture of 20s. for every thousand, and the herrings themselves to be consumed with fire, buried in the earth, or cast into the sea. Insomuch, that PtoParifa''-' in the first session of parliament, of His Majesty now being, a bill ™n°th'errings was presented to the honourable court of parliament, which being in thi 'sum- committed, the same was rejected, and termed (as it well deserved) a most ungodly bill, derogatory to God's glory, and harmful to the commonwealth : since which time the Lord hath withdrawn his plenty from Yarmouth ; and the same summer fishing hath very near wholly ceased, and many the poor fishermen have been great losers thereby. ^nO although I could produce many examples wherein the Lord, in his justice for that vile sin of ingratitude, hath withdrawn his bounteous liberality, and turned the same into scarcity, yet B Digitized by Microsoft® 122 MrnsW^ l^tstors of will I set down but one, which I found in HoUingshed, his Chronicle, in the description of England, (folio 233,) in these words following : Saffron flow- 'VIZ., such WES the plenty, about twenty years past, of SaflFron, at waiden *' Waldcn, that some of the townsmen gave the one half of the flowers for the picking of the other, and sent them ten or twelve miles into the country; whilst the rest, not thankful for the abundance of God's blessings bestowed upon them, in most contemptuous man- ner murmured, belching out most unseemly words against the Majesty of the Almighty, which, although they be by the said Chronicle, there expressed in the very vile and base terms them- selves, yet for my own part, I hold it not meet here to utter, but rather to conceal them : but as they shewed themselves infidels in that behalf, so the Lord considered their unthankfulness, and gave them ever since such scarcity, as the greatest murmurers have now the least store ; and most of them are either worn out of occupying, or remain scarce able to maintain their grounds, without the help of others, — a just guerdon for their grand ingratitude. Whereby is verified, — As thankful men shall sea and land Enjoy, with perfect bliss ; ■ So men ingrate, God will withstand, And their labour, more or less. The Denes ^Iso, it hath plcascd God to annex to Yarmouth aforesaid, a most fit and meet place, which I have before mentioned, called the Downs, or Denes, but more contractedly, the Den of Yarmouth, (according to the English-Saxon, which calls a vale a den,) before the said town, on the east side thereof, viz., between the town and the sea aforesaid, whereon to dry the fishermen's nets. On which be often times, as many spread, as be worth £5,000, and will extend Ne«i°™read in length more than a hundred English miles at the least : without to dry which meet and apt place, the fishermen could not, with any con- Digitized by Microsoft® &xtui lartttoutfj.— t6t9. 123 veniency, continue their fishing season. Therefore one saith, — " The Denes, to dry the herring nets, so well it doth heflt ; That, to proceed in fisher-fare, men could not be without it." ^tlti now, being come to the Downs, or Denes, of Yarmouth, I think good to rest myself there awhile, and briefly to set down, respecting . , . . , • , , the Town amongst other, certam good constitutions, which the town hath common enacted, touching the order of commonage there ; as well to prevent the excess of cattle, as to limit the order of feeding ; to the end that the rich may not oppress the poor, nor either of them the common : by which indifferent course, the poor be greatly relieved, and the Denes be not immeasureably surcharged. JTiriit, in the year of our Lord God, 1552, in the sixth year of King Edward Anno 1552 VI., (in the time of "William Mayhewe and Nicholas Firmage, Bailiffs,) it was ordained, by act of Common Council, that no man should keep above one cow, calf, or gelding, upon the common, upon pain of forfeiture of the beast so kept to the contrary. S[n3j, in the time of Christopher Haylett and John Echard, Bailiffs, it was Anno 1553 agreed, that no swine, geese, or ducks, were to be kept thereon, or in the town, upon forfeiture of the geese or ducks, and for every swine, 6s. 8d. ^tiO, in the time of Cornelius Bright and William Harborne, Bailiffs, that Anno iss7 no cattle should be put on the common, before it be entered in the Constables' book, upon pain of 12d. 9[tlJJ, likewise, in the year of Thomas Garton and John Wakeman, Bailiffs, Anno iS69 that no mare, colt, or steer, be put on the common, under pain, for every week, 6s. 8d. 9n&, likewise, in the year of John Echard and John Harding, Bailiffs, that Anno i"'' not any gelding should be put on the common, which was not worth £1 6s. 8d. upon pain of loss of lOs, ^n?r, by an old ordinance, it is clearly forbidden that any sheep be put there- upon, upon pain of forfeiture of Id. a foot. WL^tXtbTO it plainly appeareth the great care the town hath had for order and indifference to be used in these businesses. Many other good laws, which have by act of Assembly, in the negative, B 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 124 Mm&i}iTj^*s llistors at been enacted touching the common, for brevity sake, I here over- pass, to the end that I may further pass to the remembrance of a most worthy virtuous gentlewoman, and special benefactor, one Catherine M'^ Catherine Rogers, a native of this incorporation, (daughter °^"^ of John Garton, of Yarmouth aforesaid, merchant, long since de- ceased,) who, in the true love she bare thereunto, did voluntarily make a vow unto herself, to perform the several benefits following, not only upon the Denes, (for which cause I do here, as in fit place, insert the same,) but also, unto all others, the merchants and inhabi- tants of Yarmouth, as by and bye shall be shewed unto you. ^pon my first entrance upon the Denes, I said I would rest here awhile, not then thinking (I protest) by the number of eight whole pages of paper writing, to have made there so long a demurrer : but my care being to remember the well-aifected, to the end (as knoweth God) to raise up a great number of well-doers, I have thought good to express the bounteous liberality of this well- disposed gentlewoman, which in part the very words of the Indenture itself following, (whereunto I refer thee,) shall speak of her ; and the residue, after that, shall be manifested unto you. Mer Gifts " ^W iltlfenturK tripartite, made the twelfth day of September, in the third ftjftiMs"''" " ^^^ fourth years of the reigns of Philip and Mary, by the grace of God, King "and Queen of England, Spain, France, both Sicilies, Jerusalem, and Ireland, " defenders of the faith, both Archdukes of Austria, Dukes of Milan, Burgundy, "and Brabant, Counts of Haf burgh, Flanders, and Tyrol; betwixt the Bailiffs,' « Burgesses, and Commonalty of the town of Great Yarmouth, in the county of "Norfolk, of the first part; and the Reverend Father in God, John, Bishop of " Norwich, on the second part ; and William Garton, Thomas Garton, and Robert " Rogers, Executors of the testament and last will of Xatherine Rogers, widow, " deceased, on the third part ; Witnesseth, that, whereas the said Katherine " Rogers, of her good and virtuous disposition hath, amongst other things men- " tioned in her last will and testament, devised £100 of good English money, to " be lent yearly, for ever, without gain, to and for the sustentation of merchants " and other inhabitants of Great Yarmouth : £100 to be lent unto them for ever,' Digitized by Microsoft® 0reat larmoutid.— 16t9. 125 ' £5 or £10 at the most, by the direction of her Executors, during their lives ' and the longer liver of them : and after their decease, of the Bailiffs and three ' of their brethren of Yarmouth aforesaid. And the parties that shall be the 'receivers of the said money, to be bound to her Executors during their lives ' and the longer liver of them, and after their decease to the Bailiffs and three brethren of Yarmouth aforesaid, with two sufficient sureties j to bring in new ' sureties every year ; and no man to have it above two years at the most. And ' she wills, that the Bailiffs and Commonalty of Yarmouth aforesaid, shall be bound to perform the same, as it shall be devised by her Executors, at her cost and charge. And she wills, the said £100 to be paid within one year next after her decease. And she wills, that her Executors, during th e lives or life of the longest liver of them, shall have the appointment of the same £100, to be lent to the said merchants and inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, to whom they shall think good and most meet. And after the death of the longest liver of them, then she ' wUls that the Bailiffs and three of the brethren of Yarmouth aforesaid, of the ' most discretion, shall have the nomination and putting out of the said £100 yearly, to such honest men as they shall think meetest to do profit therewith, ' and best answer the stock, as they will answer before God at their peril. And ' to the intent, that the merchants and other inhabitants of the said town of ' Great Yarmouth, may be assured of the said £100, according to the tenor, form, ' and effect of the last will and testament of the said Katherine, according to the, ' true meaning of the same, it is now fully condescended and agreed, as well by the same William Garton, Thomas Garton, and Robert Rogers, Executors of ' the said Katherine Rogers, as by the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalties, ' of the said town of Great Yarmouth, concerning the good and fit execution of ' the same last will and testament of the said Katherine Rogers in the clause ' and article before recited, as hereafter in these present indentures ensueth : ' that is to say, the said William Garton, Thomas Garton, and Robert Rogers, ' their Executors or Assignees, at the feast of S' Michael the Archangel, next ' coming after the date hereof, shall pay or deliver, or cause to be paid and delivered, unto the Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty of the said town of ' Great Yarmouth, or their Chamberlains, or their Officers of the said town, by the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty, lawfully authorized, £100 of ' lawful money according to the plain meaning and intent of the last will and testament of the same Katherine Rogers ; which hereafter, in these present ' indentures, for the better sureties to be had in the continuance of the said Digitized by Microsoft® 126 M^nsW^ l^istars of " godly gift and legacy, according to the true meaning of the last will and test- " ament of the same Katherine Rogers, is more plainly set forth in articles, and " also covenanted to be truly performed in manner and form following : that is " to say, the Bailiffs for the time being, and three other of the most discreet per- " sons, (Justices of the Peace) within the said town of Great Yarmouth, for the " time being, which shall be named by the said William, Thomas, and Robert, " and the survivor of them, yearly, during their lives, and the longest liver of " them, and after their decease by the Bailiffs of the said town for the time being, " shall from henceforth, yearly, for evermore, provide, see, and cause that the " said £100 shall be paid to the said Bailiffs, Justices, and Commonalty, or to " their successors, as is aforesaid : and, from time to time, to be lent and deliv- " ered to loan, for such like times as is hereafter declared, to some of the " merchants, handicraftsmen, or other artificers, being freemen, and dwelling " within the said town of Great Yarmouth ; and being such as in outward " appearance shall be most meet to have the same, for their better relief and " comfort. And the same to be lent without gain, or any increase or profit to be " taken for the same, within as reasonable and convenient a time as reasonably " may be, after that the said sum of the £100, or any part thereof, shall be paid " to the hands of the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty, or to their " successors, or to the hands of any Oificer or Minister of the said town, for the " time being, lawfully authorized, as is aforesaid. " Etem. — That at the time of delivery of the said sum of £100, or any parcel " thereof, to any person to loan as is aforesaid, or before the same parties shall re- " ceive the said money to loan as is aforesaid, and every of them, and two sufficient " and agreeable sureties, with every of them dwelling within the said town of " Great Yarmouth, shall be bound by their writing, obligatory, good, and sufii- *' oient in the law, to the Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty, of the said town, " and their successors, to pay the said sum of money, so as is aforesaid, to be " delivered to loan, at such day, and in such form, as shall be limited in the said " obligation, or in the condition and indorsement of the same. " Stem, — That the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty, and their successors " shall, from henceforth, from time to time, do as much as in them is, to levy, " receive, gather, and recover, or cause to be levied, received, gathered, and " recovered, by demand, request, or suit, according to due form and course of the " law, all and singular such sums of money and penalties, as shall at any time or " times hereafter, be due and owing to the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Com- Digitized by Microsoft® (Srcat f armourtj,— X619, 127 " monalty, of the said town of Great Yarmouth, and their successors, of the said " sum of £100, on any specialty or ohligation to be made of and for the same, " and every parcel thereof, to the Bailiffs, Burgesses, Commonalty, or to their " successors aforesaid : and that the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty of " the said town of Great Yarmouth, and their successors, and every of them, shall " at all times hereafter, from time to time, keep and observe the orders appointed " in these indentures, for the delivering over again of the same sum of £100 to loan, " and for the receiving and levying the same, and for taking sufficient bonds for " the repayment thereof, truly, faithfully, and absolutely, vpithout delay, collusion, " subtilty, or deceit. " item, — That the persons who shall have power and authority to deliver and " put to loan the said sums of £100 as is aforesaid, shall not at any one time " deliver the same to loan to any person or persons, for any longer time than " for one whole year, to begin from the day of the delivery of the said sum to " loan : and that the same person or persons that shall have any of the said sum " to loan, for one year, shall not have any parcel of the said sum to loan the year " next following, except it be upon a new delivery to loan, and upon new bonds •' to be made and put into the hands of the said Bailiffs, Burgesses and Com- " monalty, or their successors, for the payment thereof, in manner and form " before expressed. " item. — That the persons who shall have power and authority to deliver and " put to loan any greater part or parcel of the same £100, than the said £10 " sterling at the most, are to have the same during the term of one year and no " longer, except new bonds be taken at the year's end, and the same sum then " to be delivered again as aforesaid. " item. — That no person shall receive or take to loan, at several deliveries, or " otherwise, any part of the said sum of £100, for any longer time together than " during the term of two years, according to the words and effect of the last will "and testament of the said Katherine Rogers. " Itent. — That there shall be yearly, from henceforth, in the Monday next fol- " lowing after the feast of the nativity of our Blessed Lady, a meeting, council, " advice, and account, had and taken, by the Bailiffs there for the time being, " and the three Justices to be named as aforesaid, at the Common Hall, within " the said town of Great Yarmouth, (calling to them other as shall seem to them " good,) and of all that shall be delivered to loan of the said £100, and of all that " shall be due thereof, and of all obligations made for the same, and of all the Digitized by Microsoft® 128 JHansijtp's i^tstorg of "charges, and other things necessary to he done for the levying, maintenance, " and keeping of the said orders and articles specified in these indentures : and " that the same council, account, and reckoning to be had, made, and entered " on parchment yearly, within seven days next after the said Monday next fol- " lowing after the said feast of the nativity of our Blessed Lady, in the court of " the said Bailiffs, within the town of Great Yarmouth aforesaid, by the Town " Clerk and Chamberlains of the said town for the time being, before the Bailiffs " of the same town for the time being, and three Justices of the same town to be " appointed by the same William, Thomas, and Robert, and the longer liver of "them, and after their decease, by the said Bailiffs as aforesaid. And that " there shall be attendance, at the council held at the said Common Hall, " (where the said accounts shall be taken and had, as is aforesaid, yearly, during " the said accounts of the two Chamberlains,) four Officers of the said Bailiff", " and ten poor people, being Inhabitants within the Town aforesaid. And that " there shall be distributed yearly, during the said account of the two Chamber- " lains, to the said Bailiffs of the said town for the time being, and to the said " three Justices, Town-Clerk, two Chamberlains, and four Officers, for their " pains taken about the premises, and to the said ten poor persons, 1 Ss. id. of " lawful money of England : that is to say, to the Bailiffs for the time being, 2s. ; " to the three Justices of the Peace, 3s., to be equally divided betwixt them ; " to the Town-Clerk, for keeping of the reckoning and engrossing of the account, " and'yearly declaring to whom the said money is yearly lent, 2s. ; and to the two " Chamberlains, for keeping and laying up of the said obligation, writings, and " books, 20d.; and to the four Officers, for their pains to be taken in warning of " such persons as shall be appointed to be at the said council and account, 16d. ; " and to the said ten poor people, 3s. id., to be paid and equally distributed " amongst them. And the said 13s. id. to be received and paid yearly, by the " said William, Thomas, and Robert, and by the Executors and Assignees of the " longest liver of them, until lands, tenements, or other yearly revenue be pur- " chased by the said William, Thomas, and Robert, their Executors or Assignees, " that the said yearly payment of the said sum of 13s. id., may be paid and con- " tinned for ever, according to the form afcd purport of these present Indentures. " And the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty, do covenant and grant for " them and their successors, as well to and with our said Rev" Father in God, " John, L'' Bishop of Norwich, and his Successors, as also to and with the said " William, Thomas, and Robert, and every of them, their Executors and Admin- Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutl).— 1619. 129 '• istrators, and every of them, and to and with every of them by himself severally, " that they the said Bailiffs, Burgesses, and Commonalty, and their Successors, " shall, from henceforth, at all times, from time to time, well and truly, without " fraud or cozening, keep, observe, perform, and fulfil, or cause to be kept, ob- " served, performed, and fulfilled, all and every such articles, clauses, ordinances, " rules, and agreements, as be specified in these Indentures, of their parts to be " performed, fulfilled, or kept, touching or concerning the receipt, delivery, loan, " and good continuance of the said sura of £100, and every parcel thereof, from " time to time fur evermore, to be lent and delivered, without gain, to the mer- " chants, handicraftsmen, and inhabitants, being freemen and inhabitants within " the said Town, and being such as in outward appearance shall be most meet " for their better relief, to have the same, according to the tenor and effect of the " articles in these Indentures comprised, and the true and godly meaning of the " last will and testament of the said Katharine Rogers. " iirnfttOeir always, and it is decreed by the parties aforenamed to these In- " dentures, that the said Baihffs, and three Justices of the Peace, (to be appointed " as aforesaid,) shall yearly, during the lives of the said William, Thomas, and " Robert, and the longer liver of them, deliver to loan the said £100, and every " parcel thereof, according to the order and form aforesaid, to such persons as '' the said William, Thomas, and Robert, and the longer liver of them, shall " yearly name and appoint, to the said Bailiffs for the time being, and three Jus- " tices of the Peace, to be appointed as aforesaid. " In tnttiir^S whereof, as well to the first part of these present Indentures, re- " maining with the said Bishop ; as also to the second part of the said Indentures "remaining with the said William, Thomas, and Robert, the said Bailiffs, Bur- " gesses, and Commonalty, have put their seal ; and to the third part of the said " Indentures, remaining with the said Bailiffs and Commonalty, as well the said " Bishop, as the said William, Thomas and Robert have put their seals. Given " the day and year first above written." ©SerE was, moreover, £I00 by her given to this township for ^looieftto ever, to be employed yearly in corn, to be bought at the best hand the poo" o" , 1 • 1 /. I ■, *^® town — as well to beat down the covetous minds ot those greedy cormo- rants, who never cease to grind the faces of the poor, by inhancing the prices, making a dearth when God sendeth plenty — as to relieve Digitized by Microsoft® Three town wells built 130 jHansfjtjj's l^tstorg of the poor inhabitants, by uttering it by small measures, and at a lower price, than in market there commonly used ; which, by two discreet men of the Assembly, yearly for that purpose chosen, who be termed " Husbands," or " Purveyors," for the same, is weekly, on the market-day, there distributed, to such poor inhabitants as will there buy any. ^ISO, at her own proper costs and charges, there she built anno 1561 ^p^jj ^{jg Denes aforesaid, three goodly wells, whereof to draw water, as well to wash the fishermen's nets, as to white and bleach the linen of other the inhabitants of Yarmouth ; which being, in the year of our Lord God 1561, (Simon More and John Purfey, Bailiffs,) built, the one at the gates commonly called Oxney Gates, and the other at the Market Gates, and the third at the Church The north well fallen Gatcs, (which being found not so necessary as the other, be defaced,) anno 1619 jjg jjow Very necessary for the inhabitants of Yarmouth, and be, therefore, continually well repaired and amended. The Lord in- crease the number of such good doers. Amen, Amen. ^ISO, by the special providence of God, and the continual charges of that town^ there is a very good harbour, or haven, neces- The haven ^^''^ ^^^ ^^^ pcrsons trading those coasts ; the which hath harboured f^^oo'foiT ^^^ succoured more than 600 sail of fishermen at one time : who life ume ^' may, most conveniently riding or floating, night or day, whatsoever storm or tempest happeneth, at all times, be it flood or ebb, with- out any danger, deliver forth and receive in their herrings, nets, ^ or any other their commodities ; as experience hath manifestly proved at sundry times, when any great rage of tempest happeneth. Which, that they may the better perform, there is a Quay or Wharf of excellent comeliness, very workmanly builded, and all well maintained, all alongst the west side of the said town, and on the east side of the haven aforesaid, whereon men with such facil-. ity, that one foot being on land, the other on the ship, (which is a Digitized by Microsoft® ©rcat larmoutlj.— 1619. 13E benefit exceeding,) do and may charge and discharge all their her- rings, fish, nets, and other goods whatsoever, at their pleasure, as not the like ia any harbour in this kingdom : of which I may say, as the poet saith of another haven in Wales, — " Hie exarmatum terris cum gentihus eequor Clauditur, et placidam discit servare quietem." The sea disarmed here of winds, within, high hanlcs and hills Enclosed is, and learns thereby to he both calm and siill. Which Wharf, or Quay, is continually, as often as need require. The Quays new builded, repaired, and amended, at the proper costs and charges "f j^"*^""* of every owner whose house abutteth upon it, so far as the same ^'"'"'"8 extendeth; by means of which Quays the haven is kept within limits, that it cannot exceed the bounds or limits appointed, but is restrained. For this verb, caiare, in old writers doth signify to keep in, to restrain, and to repress, and which the learned Scaliger, in his 2""^ book, and 22""^ chap., hath so expounded. ^nSj for that the haven aforesaid may the better be preserved orL^rneL" from filth and gravel, which by the fall of waters do descend the grated over ^ ' •' . . anno 1S81 channels or gutters leading thereunto, there was long since, viz., anno 1581, (John Grosse and John Bradish, being Bailiffs) grates appointed to be placed at the lowest descent of every gutter ; which being, by experience, found very profitable, there was this last year, 1610, (Isaac Cooper and Augustin Youngs, Bailiffs,) by the special help and forwardness of Edmund Grosse and Edward Owner, then Chamberlains, (whose readiness to effect the same I cannot but highly commend,) almost all the same gutters were covered The gutter* n 1 ^ r\ on the Quay very neatly, insomuch that men may pass all alongst the (oluay, or covered in Wharf aforesaid, without annoyance, and the poor beasts draw their burthens far more easily than in former times they could do. Whereby j,not only the whole Quay is made much more comely,, s 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 132 Jlansfjip's l^istorg of but also the haven mightily preserved from sand and gravel, which _. J ^^ formerly did greatly annoy it. Besides, in that year was the Town anno leTo*'' Quay paved with stone, which in like manner greatly preventeth the haven from the like annoyance. Which works taking so good effect, moved that township in the year of our Lord 1617, (in the time of Edmund Grosse and Edward Owner, Bailiffs,) that the Broadway leading from the Foreland to the Bridge (w'=*' in times past, especi- ally in winter season, was very foul and filthy,) to be artificially moulded, and with stone to be paved, whereby men may now pass cleanly, as in any other the streets of Yarmouth ; which by the great pains, care, and oversight of the said Edward Owner, (Cham- berlain,) was performed accordingly. 2Epon which Quay, or Wharf, not far distant from the Custom The Crane Housc, is built a Very large and spacious engine, called a Crane, to receive up, and convey down, all such packs, trusses, or other ves- sels, of what weight soever the same be, as be brought thither to be loaded or landed, within the port of Yarmouth, aforesaid. Touching the building whereof, what I found in the Town Hutch, at such time as myself with others were appointed to peruse the town writings, I will, (God willing,) declare unto you ; which, in my conceit, is a thing worth your observation. Richard Bishop, an inhabitant of Yarmouth, being eligible to the office of Bailiwick, being free from ambition, which of all passions is the strongest, and is, as one saith, like the shirt of the body, the last that is put off, whereunto unbrid- led nature runneth headlong to greatness, for " natura nostra imperii est avida, et ad implendum cupiditatem praceps" our nature is greedy of rule, very prone to fulfil the desires of the same : but this man wisely thought, as our good King James, in his Basilicon Doron, saith, that it is "magis onus quam honos" a greater burthen than honor: for all magistrates, both active and passive, are painful. Which caused Moses to be most unwilling to be sent to the Israelites, Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat farmoutfi.— 1619. 133 to deliver and govern them ; and Saul to refuse to govern Israel. Yet do many men, now a-days, (I speak not of good men,) clean contrary, hold it a greater honour and worship than burden or charge, to execute, and therefore do often thirst after it : whereas, if they rightly considered the due execution of justice, they would, with Cincinnatus, Scipio Africanus, and Marcus Fortius, contemn all offices of honour ; who therein were accounted greater conquerors for subduing their affections, than they were for all their great vic- tories obtained ; because a conqueror, for the most part, is in for- tune's power, but the contempt and refusal of offices and honours consisteth only in prudence. This caused Otanes, one of the seven that had title to the sovereignty of Persia, to give over to his com- panions his right, upon condition that he and his might live in that empire free from all subjection and magistracy, other than those which the ancient laws and dispensations did impose : Dioclesian did the like for the empire of Rome ; and some other for the Pope- dom; they by all means fleeing from it. Not but that the same in itself is a godly and lawful calling, appointed by the Almighty, thereby to set forth his glory, by doing good to his church and common- wealth over which they be placed, but for the great charge and burden by the Almighty (whose vicegerents they are,) enjoined upon them. This Rich'^ Bishop, I say, was contented, and did covenant with the said township, by an indenture betwixt the township and him made, touching the business, bearing date in the feast-day of the decollation of S* John Baptist, 1526, which was in the 18'" year of King Henry VIII., (Ralph Dean and Will"" Bur- rowe. Bailiffs,) now 87 years past, in consideration that he might be free from bearing that office during his life, at his own proper costs and charges, before the feast-day of S' Michael the Archangel, The crane 1528, to build the Crane aforesaid: which was performed accord- R^BUho^ ingly. Whereupon he was dispensed withal accordingly, as by the anno 1S27 Digitized by Microsoft® 134 M3.nsW^ l^tstorg of The Haven same Indenture more at large appeareth. Whose humility and wisdom I cannot but highly commend ; and for the same cause have, in this place, inserted the same in this history, ranking him amongst those wise men, (which Plato so highly coramendeth, and for the same cause,) that do more strive to avoid, than to possess places of rule and dignity. Not but that good men, which be meet to rule, refusing to undergo it, should be compelled thereunto, for we were not born for ourselves, but for God's glory, our country^s and our friends' good. But to return to the Port or Harbour of Yarmouth. It hath, as Lipsius adviseth, room enough within it, sith it can contain such a number of vessels at one time, (as presently I will shew unto you,) who may ride afloat safely, without annoying or harming one another ; and having so entered the Haven, they be safe from all stormy tempests whatsoever ; and may, as the ships do at Bristow, with full sail come all along the said Town to the Quay there, where the Town (praised be God) doth succour and furnish the whole Fleet, not only with all kind of victuals at very reasonable rates and prices, but also with masts, sails, anchors, cables, ropes, and all_, other necessaries, meet for sea-faring men, as not the like in any Coast Town, within fourscore miles adjoining, can so conveniently and speedily be performed for them. And here let me tell you a thing, no less true than marvellous, and as commendable as either, which I cannot let pass without wrong doing to the government of Yarmouth ; that notwithstanding the great multitude and concourse of people yearly repairing thither, by the wise foresight and careful industry of the Magistrates of Provisions Yarmouth in due time provided, neither be the prices of victuals any whit inhanced or increased, or any other their necessaries aforesaid, meet for sea cases wanting. But, like as a good fountain, the more it is drawn the more plenty of water it yieldeth j so plentiful Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutfi,— X619. 135 Yarmouth, the more people that come thither, the more plenty of victual is evermore present, so that never less want is there to be seen than at that instant. The experience whereof, although every year doth sufficiently approve, yet was the same most plainly perceived, and by the Fishermen themselves especially commended, in the Fishing, anno 1597, in the 39"* year of Queen Elizabeth, (John Youngs and Richard Moody, being Bailiffs,) for that the unseason- able weather then happening, and continuing very near twenty days together, no less than 7OO sail of ships and vessels were constrained 700 vessels • 1 XT /* TT 11 t n ill tlie Haven to harbour m the Haven of Yarmouth, where the number of 16,000 atuneume persons being continually fed, the prices of victuals were little or nothing inhanced. And in like manner do I find that in the year of our Lord, 1543, which was in the 35*'* year of the reign of King Henry VIII., (Gilb* Guye and W" Denn, Bailiffs,) at such time as the King made great preparation for Scotland, that 180 sail of great ships remaining here in the roads by the space of fourteen days, they were here all plentifully re-victualled, and yet the prices not any thing thereby raised. So was it likewise, not only in the days of King Edward VI., when like preparation was made into Scotland, but from time to time, when any other expedition hath been made into that country; for as well saith one — " Providus est pltnus, improvidus extat egenus." The wise hath pUniy great in store, When fools are pinched with want full sore. Hixlj it is further to be noted, that although the nearness of the sea be very profitable for traffic, as hath been before declared, yet be not the people very easy to be governed : the reason thereof of yVnfouth 1 . 1 . 1 "°t easily is, for that they themselves do travel mto other countries, and they governed of other countries unto them ; and those strangers, trained up in diverse countries, and in sundry laws, be, for the most part, of dif- ferent manners and conditions ; which caused Lycurgus, that wise Digitized by Microsoft® 136 ilans][)t}j's ?^istor2 o! lawgiver to the Lacedemonians, to command them not to go out of their own country, nor to converse with strangers, saying, that al- though by their traffic with them they might be enriched, yet, on the other side, they would grow poor in regard of their own virtues. And therefore saith Aristotle, (in the 7"^ book of his Politicks, and e"" chapter,) that where such a multitude of divers nations be as- sembled, it is an office of no small difficulty to govern them with peace together: for these "maritimi sive maris accola" men dwelling upon the sea coasts, or hard by the sea, especially the mariners, (who for the most part be stout in courage and fierce in behaviour, as having to deal continually with the boisterous blasts of winds and waves, when they be at sea,) be much diffisrent in behaviour when they come to land. Yet, by the wisdom of the Magistrates of the same, neither any affi-ay, riot, rout, or bloodshed was at that time committed amongst them, proving this saying to be true — " When wise men rule with courage stout, They vice suppress, and sin root out." Not much unlike that which the Poet saith — " Instrumenta ferri vincit sapientia belli." The force of wisdom bears such sway, That wars full fierce it doth allay. ^0 that, if Yarmouth Haven were not, or were not apt and meet for safeguard in time of tempest, the fishermen should be en- forced to sail 30 or 40 miles for the safeguard of their lives, ships, and goods ; and to be put from their fishing grounds, to tlieir great loss ; or else should perish both men, ships, goods, and all, as hap- pened to 50 sail of boats and ships, in the winter season, in the reign of Queen Mary, viz. 1555, in one day and one night, when rnnoTsM the Haven of Yarmouth was decayed, and it so most lamentably befel unto them : therefore, 50 vessels wrecked Digitized by Microsoft® ®rrat i[armottti^,— 1619. 137 What profit hy a Haven doth come, Is never known till shipwreck done ; But when the same is come to pass, Then 'tis too late to help, alas ! Therefore it were a matter of great ingratitude, that sith the town of Yarmouth hath, with their intolerable charges, made a commod- ious Haven, to save the Fishermen in time of distress, and by that means hath allured them to frequent that coast, that they should never receive any good by them, but when they cannot otherwise avoid it ; nor have the Fishermen's company at any time, but when they come to save their lives ; as the enemies of Yarmouth desire, and most unjustly have sundry times exclaimed against them, alleging (but most untruly,) that so great is the loss that the Fisher- men sustain by coming to Yarmouth, losing their drift, that they willingly would never come thither, but in time of extremity. Whereas, it cannot be denied (for it hath been very often proved before the Right Hon^'i^ Lords of the Council for the time being, and myself mind, God assisting me, hereafter to set down the allegations on either party, as before them hath been alleged,) that in the year of our Lord, 1579, when Yarmouth was, by the hand vufied"™ of God, so greatly visited with the plague of pestilence, that there Inaaun died forty-three persons in one day, that free liberty was given to the Fishermen to sell elsewhere at their pleasure ; and tents and boo"ths^reeti . , on the Denes booths appointed to be erected on the Denes, that they might not in conse- come within the houses of Yarmouth, to make price of their Her- rings ; imitating that order which, by their predecessors, in the year 1550, (Tho' Betts and Will" Garton, Bailiffs,) upon like cause oc'uTrlnce was unto the Fishermen then also granted: yet would not the Fishermen, at either time, refrain their coming to Yarmouth ; for that there they have not only greater prices, but more quick and easy dispatch than in any place in England. For in the year of our T Digitized by Microsoft® 138 MmsW^ l^tstors of Lord, 1580, (Ralph Woolhouse and John Giles, Bailiffs,) there were 2,0001astsof ' , . ., , , . , TT flsh brought not SO fcw as 2,000 lasts, in one tide brought into the Haven of in in one tide ^ anno 1580 Yarmouth, which were all bought and received, and the Fishermen ready to go to sea, within two days following : which all the coasts of this kingdom could not, in so short a time and so conveniently, have performed for them. But what will not malicious men vomit and cast up, out of a full gorge surfeiting with rancour and malice ? therefore, we may say of them, " omne supervacuum plena de pecfore manat" But to return. ®j^tS Town of Yarmouth aforesaid, as it is most conveniently seated for the relief and behoof of the Fishermen, and all other sea traders, (as hath been before declared,) so is it in like manner most fitly and most strongly situated, and, as it were, by nature fortified against the enemy with sundry sands and shelves in the sea, (as in part hath been remembered,) being the only key of defence of the frontiers of Norf. and Suff., as not any town the like in six counties adjoining : and so by the charter of King Richard II., bearing date the SS*** day of November, in the tenth year of his reign, and con- firmed by Act of Parliament in the same year, is plainly affirmed. And for the better encouragement of that Township, after many a II g''^'^ tings, revokings, and re -gran tings, of the liberty of Yarmouth, charter*&c ^aviug then sore wars with France, Spain, Flanders, and Brittany, town "'^ '*"' he did grant unto Yarmouth a most bountiful large charter, to- gether with a special commission for the fortifying of Yarmouth against his enemies. In like manner did King Henry VIII. for the strengthening thereof, having wars with France and Scotland, well knowing, that if the enemy should surprise Yarmouth, the same might endanger the loss of all the east parts of this kingdom of England; the which our neighbours (late enemies) of Dunkirk and Nieuport, whilst some of them were here imprisoned, did con- fess no less ; saying, that the fear of Yarmouth did restrain them Digitized by Microsoft® <5reat larmoutfj.— t6t9« 139 from landing in any part of the coasts of either of these counties. But, forasmuch, as my meaning is, not that you should take my bare word for the matter, (for it may be, it will be deemed, because I am a native of Yarmouth I will be partial in reporting, which, God knoweth, I do shun as I do fire and water,) let me declare tmto you what I do find in a record taken out of the Tower, in the roll termed Michaelis, anno 2* Ricardi 2*°, touching the force and J"^a™Sutii validity of Yarmouth, at such time as great oppositions were, by foAhfung- the Lowestofians, made against it. I will not trouble you nor myself with recital of the whole record, but with so much as doth concern the confirmation and approbation of the strength of Yar- mouth, and of that necessity that it should be maintained : thus it beginneth, — " 3En(iUtSttt0 eapta apud magnam Jernemutham, %c. An inquisition taken at " Great Yarmouth, the Friday next after the Feast of S' Faith the Virgin, in the " 2°^ year of the reign of King Richard 11., before William de UfTord, Earl of " Suff., William de Witchingham, and Roger Boys, by the oaths of AUane de " Ilboys, &c.; and they say upon their oaths, that there is not any Town, by " thirty lewks, upon the coast of the sea, sufficient to resist the enemies of our " sovereign Lord the King aforesaid, but only the said Town of G' Yarmouth ; " which, if it should be surprised and taken by the said enemies, it would redound " not only to the damage of the whole country adjoining, but also of the whole " realm besides.'' And the very next day following, was the like inquisition taken be- fore them, the said Commissioners, at Lowestoft, by another inquest then impanelled ; who did return and find as the other inquest at Yarmouth had done before them, touching the premises. I^oId necessary, therefore, it is for the safety of this kingdom, that such a Town as Yarmouth should be seated in that place where the same is builded. Let us, besides our own experience, hear the opinion of the wisest heathen philosopher that ever wrote of policy, Aristotle, who saithjit is meet that in every several country and region- T 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 140 M'&nsW^ l^istorg of (much more on the coast of every- kingdom) one city or town be built, which must, as it were, for the honour and safety of the state, ex- ceed all other Towns adjoining, and from which all the other smaller Towns are to receive their directions for all matters of importance. Now, one of the greatest means to make a City or Town great and populous is, to have authority to execute laws and justice ; for authority draweth dependence with it — and dependency, concourse — and concourse,' greatness : for in such places as have jurisdiction and power over others, as well the public wealth, as the wealth of private men, be drawn, by divers arts and means, unto them ; and there the richest sort of people do seek to ally themselves, and to get an inhabitation there ; and in like manner merchants, artificers, and the people of all sorts, that live upon their labours and service, do flock thither amain. The truth whereof, many cities in Italy, as Florence, Genoa, Pisa, Siena, and other countries in Germany, asNuremburghjLubeck, Augustenberg, do most manifestlyapprove; I speak not of Sparta, Carthage, Athens, Rome, nor Venice, whose greatness grew as fast as their power. Of this policy was not Vitale PhaHers, the 32°* Duke of Venice, ignorant, which moved him to grant unto the Borough of Lauretta, (being decayed by antiquity,) divers liberties and privileges to enrich it, thereby the more to be inhabited. Therefore, was it long since wisely ordained, IranteTto *° incorporate Yarmouth, and to grant unto it a capacity for execu- tion of royal justice; to be the place of the receipt of His Majesty's customs, for a long distance ; and that all the Towns and Ports from StifFkey in Norfolk, to Woodbridge in Suff., (which be more than three score miles distant,) should be numbered and accounted as part of the Town of Yarmouth ; and to that Town give an account of all their proceedings ; and from them, likewise, for all port causes, to receive direction. For pohcy doth in that respect imitate nature ; flor as in man, (which is the little world) all the numbers and parts I' armouth Digitized by Microsoft© 0reat garmout][j.— 1619« 141 of the whole body do receive direction from the head, in which is the mind of a man, so in a Metropolitan city, a prince keepeth his residence, to direct and rule, and the senses, as diligent servants, do attend his pleasure, and the organs and instruments of the body do execute the same : even so, policy and experience do approve the necessity of such a Town as Yai'moulh to be built as aforesaid ; for that, in all times of danger and urgent necessity, they may re- pair thither, as to their rendezvous, from time to time to be advised how to proceed in all business of like nature. Therefore, it is very meet that of necessity it must have power proportionable, to per- form the actions aforesaid. For like as amongst a multitude of men, there be many one better than another, yet is there one above all ; even so amongst Towns or Cities, (parity being most dangerous) ; as our most gracious Sovereign, King James, in his Basilicon Doron, writeth most learnedly, " parity is an enemy to unity, and the mother of confusion :" and to the same effect saith Chrysostom, in 1 3° cap. ad Romanos, where he avoucheth degrees and superiority to have, therefore, been disappointed, because equality breedeth strife and contention. It is, therefore, most meet that one Town should excel another in immunities, liberties, and freedom : which, although the same be some hindrance to another Town, yet it is, as a rev*, wor- thy, grave, and learned, native of this our incorporation, Doc"^ Nich^ . ... Bishop Felton, (now Bishop of Ely,) once said in the case betwixt Lowestoft Feiton and Yarmouth, " damnum absque injuria," a. damage and yet no injury to any ; which being (as it must needs be granted to be) true, then by the contrary, I may justly infer, and there are none but may easily conclude, that as, for want of a head in the natural body, the whole body must needs perish, even so, for want of such a Metro- politan Town in the coast as Yarmouth, (which so overtoppeth all the Coast Towns of the east part of this kingdom, according to the Poet, " inter viburna cupressi" which is, as the cypress tree amongst Digitized by Microsoft® 142 JHansfjip's lltstorg of small twigs surpasseth the residue,) the whole country must needs come to ruin. 4*°/e"coast ^XlH, moreover, how necessary it is the same should be seated necessary ^^^^ ^^ ^-^^ ^^^^ j^ j gjjQ^j^ shew all the reasoHS that might be alleged for it, the same would be infinite, and exceed the volume intended : but I will only reduce them into two of the heads before remembered ; the one, the strength and conveniency it hath to with- stand the enemy from invading these territories ; the other, the facility and commodity of importing and exporting of all kinds of victuals and merchandizes whatsoever. Britain in ® ^ *^^ former, — he that is acquainted with the ancient histories overrun by of this our Britain, viz., from the time that the Romans left this early times overrun by othernations our Island, (which was about the year after the birth of our Saviour, 426,) until this town was builded, shall find the exceeding havock that not only the Picts, but also the Saxons, Danes, and Scots, made about this kingdom, especially upon this our coast of Norfolk : but after the same began to flourish, we read not of any which could take any landing in these parts to annoy us. And although in the year of our Lord, 1216, which was in the 18"* year of King John, at such time as Lewis of France who, being called by the tumultu- ous Barons of England to invade this kingdom, pretending right to the crown thereof, did possess London, Norwich, and most part of Yarmouth England beside, Yarmouth was strongly enforced to yield the Town Kingjoiin unto him, yet did that town (in requital of the kind good will towards them, of their true liege lord and natural sovereign. King John, who nine years before that did them incorporate,) withstand all the force intended against them ; minding to the last man never to give over, but the same, in the behalf and to the use of the same, their true lord, and patron King John, stoutly to defend and keep against all the assailants : although, besides more than warlike resistance, it cost their purses full dearly. Therefore, it may be ■ Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat iarmout!).— 1619. 143 said of Yarmouth according to the proverb, " una avis optima pro patrid pugnare tuenda." The notable revenge also, of the towns- men in Yarmouth, in the year of our Lord 1381, (which was in the fourth year of the troublesome time of King Richard II.,) recorded The town attacked in the old Chronological Table, in the Guild Hall of Yarmouth by rebels _ ^ _ ^ anno 1381 hanging, for resisting a mighty rascally rout of rebels, there named sagittarii, archers or bowmen, whose leader was John Littester, a dyer of cloth, who sometime dwelt in Norwich ; who, hearing of the ungracious feats done by others his like in other places, bent themselves to commit all kinds of villany, in like manner, in Nor- folk. Who, like the locusts which God sent over as one of the plagues of Egypt, overspread Suffolk and Norfolk, with their arrows spoiling the country ; of whom it may be said, as the poet saith touching the death of that worthy martyr, King Edward, who, for his true faith, was shot to death with arrows, — " Jmn loca vulneribus desunt, nee dumfurtosa Tela, sed hiberna grandine plura volant." Thotigh now noplace was left for wounds, yet arrows did not fail These furious wretches ; still they fly, thicker than winter hail." Those on the morrow after S' Botolph, entered the town, doing there great outrage ; breaking the prison, delivering the prisoners, and committing other villanies : of whom this question might be demanded, — " Quo, quo scelesti ruitis ? aut cur dexteris uorat. Aptantur enses conditi f ^' ^"' Parumne campis atque Neptuno super Fusum est Latini sanguinis f ***** Neque hie lupis mos necfuit leonibus Unquam nisi in dispar feris Furor ne emeus, an rapit vis acrior ? An culpa ? Sesponsum date ! — Tacent et albus ora pallor inflcit Mentesque percukcB stupent." Digitized by Microsoft® 144 MmsWs l^istor^ of Oh ! wretches, I would they had justly considered that " nihil est crudelius quam urbes dirnere." Yet were they the next day, by The rebels ,-,,,„ J' J are wholly three of the clock, wholly by the townsmen of Yarmouth over- come, and enforced to flee from them, leaving many of their dead carcases behind them : approving that w* Sallust affirmeth, — " Omne bellum sumitur facile, caterum agerrime desinit." And, as good Erasmus saith, — " Hoec funt belli decora, proficisse nemini nocuissequamplurimis." AlsoLucan, — " Heu miseri qui bellagerunt." Which deed did sufficiently approve the valour of the townsmen of Yarmouth. Many other good services sundry times after that hath been performed, which once I deemed not so much as to speak of. 23ttt, forasmuch as it is not meet altogether to overpass with continual silence the acts of the valiant, nor the laud and merit of the good ; but that the same should be manifested to the world by a true fame, for witness of itself and example to others ; I may not, for very conscience' sake, do my native township that injury at this instant, (which never in my life willingly did it any,) silently to pass over that famous resistance and. discomfiture of the often unde^Kett™ attempts oiFcrcd by the power of those arch-traitors and famous £11111 "^ 54-9 (yea rather, infamous,) rebels, Rob* Kett, and William, his brother, committed in NorflF., in the year 1549, in the third year of Edward VI., (Will-" Bishop and Simon Moore then being Bailiffs of Yar- mouth, aforesaid); especially against this town of Yarmouth, as hereafter, (God assisting me,) shall be at large declared unto you. The order and manner whereof briefly, as my instructions will war- rant me, (for willingly, I will not insert any thing untruly,) I have thought good to express unto you ; to the end that the faithful loyalty and good service of that township may be known to poster- ity ; that they, thereby encouraged, may in like manner perform no less like dutiful obedience to their sovereigns as occasion shall require them. Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutlj,— X619> 145 "W^i pretended cause of the insurrection of those rebels was touching enclosures, whereof many complaints had to King Edward p^^tj^jj^ VI. been exhibited ; for redress whereof, commissions to many JSon"'' Shires were directed ; which, for that the like was not performed in NorfF., certain light and seditious persons of the commons or vulgar people, who in Latin be termed, " Usque a movendo quod scilicet hue atque illuc volvatur, hinc vulgaris dicitur ; hoc est vilis et communis ; hinc vulgo divulgo, hue etiam promulgo quasi provulgo ; unde lex promulgatur cumprius in vulgus educitur." And as Virgil, 1^* jEneid, — " Smvitque animis ignohile vulgus Jamyue faces et saxa volant, juror arma minisirat." Yea, how easily the common people be moved, see Matt., ch. xvi., V. IS"'; Mark, ch. viii., v. 21"'; Luke, ch. ix., v. 7""; and John, ch. vii., V. 21"*. These rebels, as in multitude of men, so in mis- chief, daily increased, so that in short time their power was 20,000 J^" re\"s' strong ; whereas the King's power, conducted by the Earl of Warwick, exceeded not 15,000 : whereof who that will further be DeFuroribus instructed, let him peruse that learned treatise of Alexander Nevill, Nmfoicim- ' V ' Slum Ketto penned in Latin, and since that translated into English, where he ^^■' shall receive of the whole proceedings a full information. Yet, in- asmuch as in the former insurrection I have begun to say somewhat, I have thought good in this not to be altogether silent ; the rather for that herein is further manifested the true love and loyal service of this township, in defending the sharp assaults of such raging rioters. ■^PJtS rabblement of rude rascals took head at Wymond- ^a^/h to'' ham, from thence took footing to Hethersett, and so to the Town N""""'' Close of Norwich, in furious manner casting down all ditches and inclosures; to whom then Thomas Codd, being Mayor of that city, (by the advice of the Council of the city,) sent commandment to u Digitized by Microsoft® 146 iHansfjtp's l^tstors of surcease their outrageous demeanour. But they, being so much the more enraged, passed over Halsden Bridge, and came to S* Leo- Theyhoid nard's Hill, upon Mousehold, right over against the city; where, to o/the heath add to their devilish dealing, they used diabolical divine service, atMousebold , ■« • usmg the Major Tho' Aldrich, of Mangreen, (a man, whilst he lived, beloved of all men,) with Rob' Watson, a preacher, (a man for his virtuous life commendable,) whom by force they had gotten unto them, and constrained them to be present at all their consultations : which proved the better for the country, for by the careful industry of these men, pestilent enterprizes were many times hindered; Kett issues although Kett would divers times grant forth commissions for fetch- commlfsions i"g ^^ of victuals to fumish his company : the tenor whereof as I find them in Nevill, fol. 1,030, I will set down unto you as followeth, in these words, — Copy of one " OT t, the King's friends and deputies, do grant licence unto all men, to provide " and bring in to the Camp, at Mousehold, all manner of cattle and victuals, in " what place soever they may find the same, so that no violence or injury be done " to any honest or poor man ; commanding aU persons, as they tender the King's " honour and Royal Majesty, and the relief of the Commonwealth, to be obedient " unto us the Governors, and to those whose names insue. Signed, Roet. Kett." But loath I am to run so far from Yarmouth as Norwich, and, therefore, most gfadly will encircle my pen to trace in the bounds whereof (God willing,) I will not overpass; referring them that would know more, to that large Chronicle of John Stowe, touching that business. But if, thereof, thou desirest more particular infor- mation, see that learned treatise, in Latin, of M"" Alex' Nevill, who most eloquently hath expressed their whole proceedings, where thou mayst understand to thy full contentment. piiialethl 2tI)ESJ rebels having now raised a powerful army, and in like manner the City of Norwich, as it were at commandment, ransacked and ransomed the houses of most of the gentry of this country, com- Digitized by Microsoft® 0rrat garmoutf).— 16t9« 147 manding or forcibly taking from them whatsoever they desired for provision, (large eaters for so wide a kitchen, I warrant you !) and jf arch to brought their force against Yarmouth, to bring that into like sub- ^*™°""* jection likewise ; having, before that, cunningly unawares surprised The Baiiiffj , . . 1 . -11 ^^® taken the said two Bailiffs, conveying them to their camp with them : prisoners from whom they afterwards escaped, and fortified the town most J^Jf^^J" strongly (as became good subjects) against them. For which their good service they received from Edward, Duke of Somerset, (the uncle and protector of King Edward VI.,) and from sundry others, the Lords of His Majesty's most Honorable Privy Council, special letters of commendation, the tenor whereof foUoweth : — " "Hftrr our hearty commendations, we have received advertisement by the tetter of " bearer, The' "Woodhouse, that ye have very honestly kept the Town against tion to the " the rebels, your diHgence wherein we take in good part towards you, and require " a continuance in you for the same. And now that Woodhouse cometh down " thither, who is Vice-Admiral, the same is intrusted for the order of the ships " and mariners, whom you shall follow ; and considering that the Port of Yar- " mouth is towards the country of Scotland, and so most likely to attempt matter " against it, shall be best that you have special regard unto it, and, namely, to " keep your mariners together, for the service of the King's Majesty, as occasion " may require. Thus fare you heartily well. Your losing friends, " To our loving friends, the E. Somerset " Baihfis and Jurates of Yarmouth. EiCH'' Rich, Cane. " hast post, hast ; A. WingfIELD " hast, hast, hast ; W"' S' JoHN ' " for thy life hast, W" Petre "hast. from Westminster, 26th July, 1549." 'Ui.ffm rebels being enraged against this township for not yield- J,^,^^''^,^/ ing to their devilish dispositions, bent all their force mightily against '^'''"°- them ; which, by the townsmen, was as valiantly defended, as anon (God willing) shall be declared unto you. These rebels, thinking to overrule here at Yarmouth, as in the rest of the country, directed u 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 148 IHansttp's ?^istor2 of Kett issues a forth 3 commission for their necessary provision, whereof I have commission '' *■ men&hMses t^ought good to give thee a true copy ; the original itself remaining at this present in my custody. (Jopy of the " jStc^oIaJ 98sron, our Commissioner in this behalf, commission , " 3Se it known to all Men, that we, Rob' Kett and Tho= Aldrich, Commission^ " ers of the King's Camp, at Mushoulde, have appointed, out of our Camp afore- " said, one hundred of men to return from us to Yarmouth, for the maintenance " of the King's Town there against our enemies. " ®Ib0 we do certify you, that we, for the more sufficient and necessary victualing " of our said hundred men, do appoint Rich^ Smith, Tho' Clarke, and John " Rotheram, and also to take up horses and geldings for the fm-ther aiding of our " said men. " <9f the appointment of Duck, the Constable there : " First, out of the Half-hundred of Fleg - - 60 men " Out of Caister ... - - 12 men " Out of Norwich - - . 10 men " Out of Beccles ---... iq men " Out of Denton - .... 5 ^sisn. " Out of Blowfield and Walsham ... 17 men " Out of Harleston ----.. g men " Out of Henstide -._... 2 men " JBatelr at the King's great Camp, at Mushould, the 5"' day of August, in the third year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord King Edward VI. By me, RoBT. Kett By me, Thomas Aldeich." By the manner of whose pretended warrant you may plainly discern their jugglings to delude the common people, under the title of " His Majesty's service ;" whereby a number of good subjects wfire seduced, which otherwise would not have lift up weapon against their sovereign. Neither mayst thou think, gentle reader, that this Thomas Aldrich that here subscribed with Kett, was a disloyal sub- ject, but only being taken by them, was (as many other substantial gentlemen and yeomen were the like,) enforced, contrary to his liking, to set his hand with them. Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat lamoutfj.— 1619. 149 51S8]btClb their commissions and commissioners being wholly disobeyed and withstood, these villains were more and more incensed with malice against this township, and devised other stratagems to surprise it : whereof the town having understanding, sent up John Millicent, Gilbert Grice, and John Eachard, three of their special Deputies ' ' . Jromthe brethren, to inform His Majesty of these rebels' rude proceedings ; '^°Z"^c7ot who vouchsafed to give them audience, taking in most kind part "'^ ^^"^ their love and valour, as by the tenor of his princely letter, directed to the township, appeareth. The tenor whereof followeth : — " BHElUieloSeft, we greet you well, and let you wit, that it hath been signified Copy of the " unto us, by our dearest Uncle the Duke of Somerset, Governor of our person to'tife Town " and Protector of our realms, dominions, and subjects, that ye, the Officers of " our Town of Yarmouth have, as to the duty of good subjects pertaineth, em- " ployed yourselves to put in order of defence our Town and Port there, against " such of our unkind and unnatural subjects of those parts, as, not regarding their " obedience, have shewed themselves in arms against us, — not fearing God, who " chiefly of all precepts, admonisheth of obedience of subjects to their Sovereign " Lord, have, as much as in them lieth, given liberty to foreign enemies to attempt " their maKce by invasion of this our realm of England and other dominions, " which hitherto have, by the good subjects of the same, been most valiantly de- " fended ; and further, by their unkindness forced us, contrary to our nature, to " divide our self, being head, from our own members, yea, to consent that one part " should destroy other, to preserve thereby the state of a King, with the kingdoms " and dominions left unto us by God, and most just title. These members, joined " and united together by the direction and order of the head, might have been a " full and perfect strength and puissance, to have resisted or invaded any outward " enemy whatsoever ; which by the oneration of division at home, hath not only " taken from us all opportunity to follow our nature and good proceedings in Scot- " land, besides the consumption here of our treasure and victual, whereof the " multitude have and shall find lack, but also maketh us, and our said realms and " dominions, an open prey and ravin to whomsoever list to take advantage of them. " Wherefore, like as provoked hereunto by these, with whom no admonition nor " clemency can prevail to acknowledge their duties, we have resolved to address " down a main force, very shortly, in the order of our said Uncle, and by him to " weed and try out our good subjects from the evil ; to minister aid and comfort to Digitized by Microsoft® 150 MmsW^ 3ltstar2 of " the one, and contrariwise to extend the rigour and extremity of our sword to the " other : so for the particular favour and tender zeal we bear unto you, our good " subjects of that Town, having been pleased to grant the fruition of our Royal " presence to such as came hither from you, we have thought good, by advice of " our said Uncle, to make you partakers of our said favour, by these our special " letters. By which, rendering unto you condign thanks for the service already " ministered unto us, we will and exhort you so to continue by the guard of our " Town, that, at the coming of our said Uncle, both he may be able to report unto " us the further continuance of your service, and besides, find cause further to " relieve and help you, as occasion, upon his arrival, shall require. Given under " our signet, at our Palace at Westminster, the sixth of Aug'', in the third year of " our reign." The prospice of which letters were signed by the King's own hand " Edward," and subscribed by the said Edward, Duke of Somer- set, his uncle ; bearing this endorsement and direction : — " Ka our well-beloved the Deputies to the Bailiifs of our Town of Yarmouth, " and to the rest of our good and obed' subjects there.'' These letters were thus directed, for that the rebels before that time detained both the Bailiffs in their camp with them, but^they were, be- fore the receipt of these letters, released and again returned to Yarm". The hearing whereof, no doubt, a little animated all his true and faithful hearted subjects in Yarmouth ; redoubling their wits, wills, and forces to withstand such a common enemy as were these vil- lainous traitors : as by and bye I will declare unto you. Yet, before that, let me tell you that this cursed crew, although they imagined nothing but mischief in their hearts, and practised no less in word and deeds, yet were they not ashamed impudently to plead to be executors of justice for others; and to take upon them, as it were, to be lords spiritual and temporal, and thereupon direct their letters mandatory, following : — " iSttlintaS JFsnn and Thomas Gardiner, we commend us unto you, desiring " you in God's behalf, and for the discharge of your own conscience, to go through " with the bringer, for aE such legacies as be due to him by the death of his Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat ^armoutfr*— 1619, 151 " Uncle ; and if you shaR refuse to do this, there will be found means to bring " you hither before us, by complaint, to your great shame. From Household, " lihis S*^ of August. " By us, RoBT. Kett and Thomas Aldrich." And mark, I pray you, another commission sub-signed by them : " EJffe do require you, and in the King's name do straitly charge you, John commission " , of G' Yarmouth, that you do repair home, and bring with you, with as " much speed as may be, a last of beer, to maintain your poor neighbours withal ; " and if any man shall disturb or let you in this business, he shall suffer imprison- " ment of body. From Household, this 10"" of August. By me, RoBT. Kett By me, Thomas Aldrich." Oh ! cursed caitiflFs ! that durst take upon them to write in this manner to do justice, when as themselves, their hearts, hands, and actions, were quite contrary. But now to proceed to display them in their true colours, who before this have sounded an alarum, " Arm ! Arm ! for Yarmouth." 'Stfif SE villains, bearing special despite against Yarmouth, (which, of all towns in this part of Norfolk, did violently withstand their forces against it, when all others were enforced to yield to their slavish yoke of tyranny,) redoubled their malice and force against it ; first on the side of Suffolk, and then of Norfolk : but (praised be God) prevailed in neither, as the sequel shall manifest unto you. ®]b£g being, as it were, Lords of Lothingland, (and that by usurpation, as the devil is said to be lord of the whole world,) did think to beat down Yarmouth, as the true Lords of Lothingland prepare to' did long since, (vet they by lawful proceedings, but these rebels by Town from * 111 •! !•• Gorleston unlawful courses,) assembled a mam host, bnngmg them to the Close, at the north end of Gorleston; where having gotten six pieces of ordnance from Lowestoft, they bent them against Yar- mouth : which the townsmen perceiving, thought it was no time now Digitized by Microsoft® 152 . JIansfjtjj's Htstors of to delay, and, therefore, with all good speed and like policy, did think good to encounter them, hefore they should proceed further to beat upon Yarmouth with their great ordnance. Therefore, as prudent men, desirous to take the enemy at advantage, and not to let slip any occasion of doing some exploit when occasion is offered ; yet withal, no less careful for the preservation of their townsmen, and as well to retire them as to give the onset too adventurously ; carry- ing the mind of the good Emperor Antoninius, — " that he had rather save one citizen than put a thousand enemies to death." Like unto the answer of Scipio, at the siege of Numantia,' — " I had rather," quoth he, " have the life of one Roman than the death of all the Numantines." The magistrates of Yarmouth, (well knowing that in difficult matters it is better to execute briefly and quickly with a little danger, than to be strict and curious in performance ; and that in dangerous affairs men must be wise and courageous — foreseeing and knowing, as much as they can possibly, all dangers,) thinking and discoursing, and preparing themselves for all events, knowing that those dangers are least avoided which are unknown and unexpected, and that those actions are best effected, which the enemy sees in execution before he hears them by relation, accord- ing to that, " Inopinata magis premunt mala" and knowing that it is not fit that matters of such great moment should be communi- cated unto any, but unto such only as without whom the same cannot be accomplished ; for as expedition is the life of action, so is secrecy of deliberation, — as one well saith, that " Anima concilii secretum : " and that in the active part of military service, the cap- tain's greatest vertue is to apprehend all occasions of advantage and to take it, — for in that consisteth the very life of the action and execution ; according as in Livy, lib. 28, — " Id est viri et duds non deesse FortuncB prabenti se" So they very privately and as suddenly sent over certain very valiant townsmen, indued with wis- Digitized by Microsoft® ®nat larmoutfj.— 1619, 153 That the Bxise, Lyon, and the rest of the doggers, shall ride in the " north end of the town." " Xtetn. The rest of the fleet shall ride in the midst of them, against the town." " Stent* The small Pinnace to go up to Weybridge, being victualled for four " days, six-and-twenty men in her." " £tf m> At Buckenham Ferry, The Borderers, with certain men and one small " boat with her." "EtEttt. To scour the country, thirty Horsemen with Pikes, twelve Half- " Hacks, eighteen Bowmen." " Item. To be appointed in every "Ward, (which be eight,) so many Captains, " and petty Captains under them of their own choice, over and besides the Con- " stable ; and one more, that shall be appointed by the BaUiffs, that is practised " for the setting in order the same." " Strni. That every Constable shall learn to know in his Ward, what Towns- " men are now in the camp, and thereof to certify the BaiUffs of the same Town. " And further, to certify the names of such as they shall perceive to speak any " rebellious words, as well men as women. And also, to give knowledge how " many of the rebels' wives be in the camp, and how many be at home." Here foUoweth, according to the former orders, how the Town was quartered and marshalled by the Townsmen, being the Assembly of Yarmouth, the Captains of the number of the Four-and-twenties, and the others of the Eight-and-forties. v2 Digitized by Microsoft® 156 JHansj^ip's fl^istorg of The names of the Con- stables Wards. Constables. Captains. Petty Captains. 1 South Ward Will"" Gosse Tho» Hunt Thomas Bearde 2 South Ward John Ladd John Bowie John Liffe 1 South Mid Leet R. Micklewood John Milcent Nioh' Firmage 2 South Mid John Boune William Dean W-" Faniield 1 North Mid Rich'' Aldringe John Eachard John Perfright 2 North Mid John Garrett W" Deen John Barrett 1 North Fran' Thirkle Cairi' Hoglett W°» Bishop 2 North John Woodward Tho= Ketts John Bassett White Friars' Key Tho* Beene John Blossom Account of ©f all which proceedine-s the Town as became them, sent un the proceed- . ' f t^L ad""^ from time to time continual messengers to certify the Lords of the Council, from whom they received likewise further instructions to direct them in the business ; there being at that time joined to them in special commission for the defence of that township, S' Tho^ Clere, Knight, and Tho^ Woodhouse, Esq., (who afterwards was also for his good service knighted,) as by another letter, sent them by the then Lord Treasurer of England, doth appear, the tenor whereof following ; — Mructions'To " ^^^^^ "^^t hearty commendation, I have perceived by this bearer, and also the commis- « by your letter written to my lords, that you have entered the town of Yaimouth, sioners lor i. ^ i defence of " and be in good trust to continue the same for the King ; and how that you have " given order to the Iceland Fleet for their fish : which things be very well done. " And so is your search made for the stay of the passage next to the rebels; the " doing whereof requireth to be wisely handled, for danger of yourselves or some " of yours, and therefore, have good espials before you, for your good proceedings ; " and go strongly to the same when you do go : and so do all that you may, for " the defence of the Town and the said ferry. And, as you confer by secret means " with my Lord Wentworth and M' Vice-Chamberlain, for the stay of the Suff. " side, so I think good that you give knowledge to the Lord of Warwick of your " proceedings; and desire his advice in the same, and do what he shall further " advise you. And if at any time you shall perceive you shall be needy of more tte Town Digitized by Microsoft® ©real farmoutfj.— 1610, 157 " help, then take more strength to you, ■whatsoever you do ; and doubt not but that *' well doing shall at all times comfort the Lords to keep you from great loss, and " from any new charge to be imposed upon you ; and to give you thanks for yoxir " effectual travel. Written the 19*^ Aug=', 1549. Your freind, W. Seint John. *' To my loving freinds, " Sir Tho» Clere, Knight, and Tho= "Woodhouse, " Esq', be this delivered in Yarmouth in hast, " hast, hast, hast post, hast, hast." ®^]&US have I, good reader, delivered unto thee the whole discourse of these bloody businesses, so far as hitherto I have or could get any certain knowledge ; whereby thou mayest perceive the strength Yarmouth hath to resist the enemy, which is the first of the two reasons that I before spake of, that Yarmouth should be so seated, strongly furnished, and, above all the Coast Towns in Norf. and Suff., especially regarded. Now foUoweth that I should proceed to the second ; which is, the facility and convenient im- porting and exporting of whatsoever goods or merchandize that is brought into it, which is the cause of traffic. ©f the second benefit, Traffic, which so mainly doth concern Jon™™ent the good, not only of both the counties of Norf. and Suff., but of ^°'"'*'= the most part of this kingdom ; although I have said something thereof when I spoke of the three rivers before remembered, and did think here to have said much more of that matter, yet, consider- ing the same is most proper to be spoken of when I shall write of the Haven of Yarmouth, (which is, as the mouth to the body, the channel which conveyeth goods and merchandizes to and from the famous City of Norwich, Norf., and Suff.,) I must intreat thy patience to forbear meanwhile, till I come thither, then will I (God willing,) perform what I have promised. And yet, in the meantime, I do not mind to be idle, nor yet, I hope, ill-occupied, but will Digitized by Microsoft® 158 Jlansfjip's l^tstors of proceed to other business touching Yarmouth. Having but even now passed the perilous pikes of the viperous villains, I mean those arrant traitors the rebels lately spoken of; and having made an end of those troubles, and brought those rascals to their just and Furthsr due endinff : I do now mind to enter into another troublesome dis- troubles ° course : yet by hon*'* and worshipful adversaries, of long time — lawfully in respect of their proceedings, though, in regard of their pretended title unjustfuUy — prosecuted; but now, at the last, quietly ended, and hitherto (blessed be God for it) as peaceably enjoyed, touching the liberties of Yarmouth to the southward, as before ye have heard of those to the northward. Dispute* ^armoutS Haven, having long since had issue into the sea. Town Tnd " about four miles to the southward, by land, more than presently it enjoyeth; as well by reason of the long-necked river or stream which it had when it ran so far to the southward, was so danger- ous for passage, that ships could not pass in or out by it but with great peril, to the hinderance of traffic and also, there then having died 73OOO in one year : the town was so impoverished, that they were constrained sundry times to become humble petitioners to their and our Sovereign, for cutting out of a haven far nearer, — yea, some- times within two furlongs of Yarmouth. Which caused the Lords of Lothingland for the time being, and lastly, S"^ Henry Jernegan and his tenants and farmers of Gorleston and Little Yarmouth, evermore, as the mouth of the haven fell to the northward, to challenge all the ground to the southward of the haven aforesaid ; which bred many suits betwixt them, to the no little cost and trouble of either party : which, being now ended, I will not so much as remember, but only will proceed to the peaceful ending of the last controversy, lately depending betwixt the said S' Henry Jernegan and this township^ made by those two worshipful and wise gentlemen, S"" Christopher Heydon and S' William Butts, touching that business; which here Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat Harmoutfj.— 1619. 159 I have thought good to set down, as the same Is exemplified under the great seal of England, and at this day remaineth In the vestry of Yarmouth. But, before I speak of that, I will begin with the for- mer controversy touching the haven, because that was the first that was determined and ended. As I have before told you of a long suit, depending betwixt the successive several Lords of Lothingland and Yarmouth, for two causes, — the one, for the property of the haven aforesaid — the other, for the extent of the liberties to the southward, — I do think good here to make particular rehearsal of them : to the end that not only this generation present, but that the posterity to come, may know the care of our foregoers In the premises ; how the same was opposed, defended, and ended. CD^f said Earl of Richmond and his tenants did exhibit a com- j,^^, j^.^^ plaint against Yarmouth, anno 2^" EdwardI III., challenging one half m" y.uive™ of the haven of Yarmouth, and of duties for arriving, discharging, and Yamdmh ° loading of ships, and of the merchandize they brought : alleging a a long prescription, until King Henry III. granted unto Yarmouth their charter that such things should be done at Yarmouth, which was granted wrongfully, (as the said complaint alleged,) for that the King was not rightfully Informed of the damage. ■^To this Yarmouth shewed forth a record, of the 34"" Edward I., ^^ ^^ The answer of a suit in the Exchequer, then moved before the Lord Treasurer, oftiieiown Lord Chief Justice, Lord Chancellor, and all the Barons, touching the premises : whereupon a judgment was given In the behalf of Yarmouth. Moreover, the Burgesses of Yarmouth did then shew forth another record, of the 19"^ Edward II., before the said Justices of the King, his Councils, touching the case in question ; and then, also, was It adjudged on the behalf of Yarmouth. WintO the demonstrations of Yarmouth, the Earl replied, that , The reply he and his might lawfully enjoy the premises by ancient prescription, of the Ban saying, that the same half-hundred was ancient demesne, and that Digitized by Microsoft® 160 JKansfjip's ^istav^ of such things were possessed by them in the days of Canute and Harold, and in other Kings' days before them; and how that he the said Earl, in his time, and sundry other his predecessors. Lords thereof, (as Devergald Balioll and John BalioU, owners thereof,) did lawfully enjoy those things which he then demanded, alleging many pretended reasons to maintain the same. (Yet, not- withstanding all their allegations, upon the hearing, it was eftsoons adjudged on Yarmouth side, against the men of Little Yarmouth and Gorleston, and that the Burgesses of Yarmouth should enjoy their liberties.) The further ^Iso the Burgesses of Yarmouth did shew forth one other toe^owa rccord of the 34* Edw* L, whereby the King, by his letters patent, did assign W" of Ormesby, William Yonge, John of Thorpe, John le Brittane, and Rich* Walsingham, his Justices, to inquire of the forestalment and abrokement of the men of Little Yarmouth and Gorleston, in prejudice of the Burgesses of Yarmouth, contrary to their charter ; before whom all the matters being heard, they were adjudged of on Yarmouth side, and that the Burgesses should re- cover against them for costs and damages. The final ^gatttSt this also the men of Little Yarmouth and Gorleston and answers allege their old prescription. Whereupon, a new day was given to both parties to appear before the King and his Council, the Monday the second week in Lent, at which day all the parties appeared ; and the Burgesses of Yarmouth shewed again all their charters and grants, praying that they might be confirmed, according as was in them contained. „. , WintO this the men of Little Yarmouth and Gorleston made ine men of CTmjJraii^to many allegations and exceptions ; pretending much damage to the arhament j^j^jg ^y q^j. charters, and prayed the revocation of them ; and, thereupon complained in Parliament : w* complaint was sent to the Justices, to see justice done, and right to either parties ad- ministered accordingly. Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat farmoutlj,— 1619* 161 tE-^Z Burgesses of Yarmouth to this replied, alleging many- reasons to the contrary, and therefore prayed judgment against, and confirmation of their liberties, accordingly. SJESertupon the King sent his commission to Jeffrey Scroope T^"^ ^ing * " >/ c issues a and his fellow Justices, touching the whole premises, and to do ?°"Tue'ae justice and right in the case, or else to return it again before the '^*^'""^' King and his Council unto his Parliament. The King also then directed his writ unto the Barons of the Exchequer, to search what could be found for the deciding of the case in question, who thereupon did return, — that the King had formerly granted unto Solomon Ralph, Walter of Hopton, Rich* of Boyland, Rob* Faulke, Thomas of Suddington, and Walter of Sturthesly, (the King's Justices in Eyre,) his commission touching the business : by virtue whereof, it was presented before them, that Gilbert Foderingay, sometime Bailiff of Devorgil, did levy certain customs of ships at Little Yarm° and Gorleston wrongfully ; and that there ought to be neither fair nor market holden at the mouth of the Haven, on the side of Lothingland, as the Plaintiffs pretended. Which record was shewed before the said Jeffrey Scroope, before whom all parties appeared : yet by reason of great and weighty business then happening, the same could not be then ended. ^ftertoarJj, in Easter term following, the King sent his writ to I^J'^^^^l^^ Jeffrey Scroope, &c., from Northampton, with all the whole matter, seve«itime. to examine the same : and calling all persons before them, the same was adjourned over to Midsummer term, then holden at York ; at which time all parties appeared, and the case was pleaded by coun- sel on either side, but could not then be endedi Therefore, the King sent another writ to the said Jeffrey Scroope and his fellows, commanding them to send all the matters before the King and his Council ; which was done, and a new day given to appear at Salis- bury, anno 2^° Edward III., at which time the matters were remitted w Digitized by Microsoft® 162 |Hansf)tp's l^istorg at The men of by the said justices to the King, at his Parliament there, but could not then be ended, and, therefore, were adjourned over to the next Parliament. ©Stn, at the Parliament which was holden at Winchester, anno 4*° Edward III., the same matters were heard ; but for diverse diiEculties could not be ended, and, therefore, were adjourned over to the next Parliament, which was holden at Westminster. At which time and place all parties appeared : and the Burgesses of Yarmouth Yarmouth again shewed forth their record of the 12*1^ Henrv Ill- produce their , . J ^ old records remaining in His Majesty's Exchequer ; whereby it appeared that the King granted his commission to Martin de Patensale, Walter de Evermewe, Fulk de Banignard, and Haveo de Stanhoe, (his Justices A Jury is of Oyer and Terminer,) to enquire of those matters, but especially to make to whom the Haven of Yarmouth belonged : who empannelled forty- eight of the best, most able, wise, and discreet men, (half of Norf., and the other half of Suff.) who, being sworn,did give up their verdict that the same did belong to Yarmouth : and all the rest of the cases were also found for Great Yarmouth. Yet would not the said Earl be satisfied, but prayed another commission, for the further hearing of all the cases again. Whereupon, the King sent another com- mission to the Bishop of Winchester, Lord Chancellor of England, and others, to come to the City of Norwich, and to make enquiry of the best men of the county of Norf. and SufF., of the truth of the cases ; and more, directed his writ to the Sheriffs of Norf. and Suff., to empanel forty-eight men, as well knights as others, to enquire of the premises : who all returned on G' Yarmouth side. ©jb^tt, a new day was given unto the parties, until S' Michael, to appear in Chancery, to hear the judgment. At which day, the parties appearing, the King desired the matter might be referred to such as he should appoint ; to which the parties agreed. Where- upon, the King appointed the aforesaid Bishop of Winchester, (Lord Judgment is given in favour of Yarmouth Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmout!),— 1619, 163 Chancellor,) and the Lord John Stoneheard, and John of Cam- bridge, (his Justices,) Robert of Ufford, Oliver of Ingham, and S' Ralph Nevell, Seneschal of the King's Household, to arbitrate the causes ; whom the King also appointed to come to Yarmouth, to view the place and hear the cases : who, performing the same, did confirm them all to Great Yarmouth, as by the order itself, bearing date the 23"''^ day of June, in the S*'' year of King Edward III., remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth, appeareth. (And, as touch- ing the Chancellor's coming to Yarmouth, I find in the Roll of that chancellor 11--I T •! • r ^ r t commits a year, that, being here, he committed to prison a telon, for stealing thief to Yar- of beans and other goods, within the liberty of Yarmouth.) All *""<> i^si. which their proceeduigs the said King did ratify to Yarmouth, by his letters patents, under the great seal of England. ^XlU here I have thought good briefly to set down the matters The finding . of y* inquest delivered in charge to the Jurors of Norf. and Suff., touching the business, to find and present accordingly. JTirSt, where Ships coming into the Haven were to charge and discharge their merchandize and goods. ^erennta they return, that all Ships, loaden with merchandizes, were to load and unload at the Town of Great Yarmouth, and not on Lothingland side. £tetn. To whom the said Haven did belong. ^liexetxnta they answered, to the Town of G' Yarmouth only. ©HJefllEr that the one moiety of the Haven doth belong to the Lords of Lothingland, and the other to Yarmouth, as they of Lothingland do affirm. SC0 that they answer, that the same Haven doth belong only to Great Yar- mouth; and that all Ships floating wheresoever in that Haven, must pay all duties to that Town of Great Yarmouth. Wiftettfn the water descending between the said two Towns of Great and Little Yarmouth and Gorleston, be one port, and doth belong to G' Yarmouth only ; or, whether it be two ports, and the one half, so far as it floweth and ebbeth on Great Yarmouth side, doth belong to Great Yarmouth, and the other side, to Little Yarmouth and Gorleston. w 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 164 JIansfjtp's ^istox^ of ©0 that they say, that the same Water or Haven is but one port, and not divided j and so passeth unto Beccles and Bungay, and divideth the two coun- ties of Norf. and Suff., and doth belong to Great Yarmouth only. Whereupon judgment was given accordingly ; as by the Letters patent of the aforesaid King Edward III., in the 6'" year of his reign, appeareth. '^exe hast thou, good reader, in a few leaves and in a little time, read and heard that, which, in the reign of four princes, with the expense of a great deal of money, much bloodshed, strife, and con- tention, (as by the ancient records of Yarm" appeareth,) could not be determined ; until at length it pleased King Edward III. himself to direct the business, whereby at last, praised be God, it came to a quiet ending. ^'^r'^alj^t W^^f ^® after a storm, although the wind be down, yet will not the Haven liberties the sea be presently calm, so fared it with these men, the Lords of Lothingland, who did evermore (as they durst) trouble the town of Great Yarmouth in their said liberties; still procuring ships to discharge at Gorleston their goods and merchandizes, especially herrings : pretending that the coming of the fishermen to Great Yarmouth was a great loss to the commonwealth. Whereupon, at length the men of the coast, viz., Henry Gunvyle for Gorleston, John Hoo for Gunton, William Frenche for Lowestoft, and John Foxe for Aldeburgh, the 24*'^ of February, 1578, in the one-and-twentieth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, did to that effect exhibit a petition to the Lords of His Majesty's Council, praying a toleration for the fishermen to deliver at Gorleston and Lowestoft. But the Final set- objectious and allegations were so well defended by Yarmouth, that it was thought by their honours to be good for the Common- wealth, that Yarmouth should enjoy all their liberties; and, that the fishermen should deliver their herrings at Yarmouth, as formerly they had done, and not elsewhere within the circuit granted unto Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmouf^.— 1619. 165 them. Enjoining not only the complainants themselves to pub- lish the tenor thereof to the Coast Towns, but also, ordaining the Judges of Assize, in the county of Suff., to give it in charge to the Justices of the Peace there, that they should have good regard to see the same performed and put in execution. The names of those councillors that so ordered the matter, and subscribed the same, were these : William Burleigh, Lord Treasurer ; the Earls of Lin- coln, Sussex, Warwick, and Leicester ; the Lord of Hunsdon ; S' Fran^ Knollys, S' James Crofte, S'^ Christopher Hatton, S"^ Francis Walsingham, S' Walter Mildmaye, and M"^ Thomas Wilson. Thus much for the first, or former cause of the suits against Yarmouth, by the Lords of Lothingland, for their pretended privileges by water. j^otU followeth the other part, which is for their liberties by Disputes respecting land : what these disputes were, and how the same were ended, the bound- *- anes and appear by an Order and Decree, issuing out of the High Court of J'^^'j^'^J^"^^ Star Chamber, which recite that "@[ tantrabtri'S was depending between diverse of the inhabitants of Great " Yarmouth, and diverse of the inhabitants of Gorleston, upon several riots grow- " ing upon diverse liberties and preheminences, challenged and claimed by the " Corporation of the said Town of Great Yarmouth j as well as touching or " concerning the Free Pair holden at Great Yarmouth aforesaid ; as also touching " a parcel of waste ground, lying next to the Town of Gorleston, and sometime " between the old covirse of the Haven, leading under the great sea bank of « Gorleston and the main sea, which waste ground (by reason that the Haven " there had a shorter neck, or passage, into the sea,) had been left between the " main sea and the said great bank, and directly south from the place where the " Haven then entered into the main sea, made at the great costs and charges of " the said Town of Great Yarmouth : and for that, as Sir Henry Jernegan, knt., " was the owner not only of the said Town of Gorleston, but also of the greatest "part of Lothingland, within which the said Town of Gorleston is standing, the « said controversies, on behalf of Gorleston, did chiefly concern the inheritance « of the said Sir Henry." And which contain a few plain Articles, drawn out by Sir Chris- Digitized by Microsoft® 166 ilansfjtp*j5 flistor^ of Articles of settlement topher Heydon and Sir William Butts, (to whom the whole matters in dispute were referred,) to the effect following : — ^i^at certain stakes or dooles should be set in the place of controversy, and that henceforth the south part thereof should be to Sir Henry Jernegan, and to his heirs for ever ; and the north part unto the Town of Great Yarmouth in per- petuity : provided that if the Haven sh'' win or run in its former passage, and leave the same waste soU between the Town and the sea, this article should bind no longer any of the parties. W^nt the inhabitants of Gorleston might lawfully sell or discharge their fish out of their own bottoms where they would. ^at no BaUiff or other officer of Yarmouth, should thenceforth any ways arrest or attack any boat drawn up or fastened on Gorleston side ; provided that this article should not extend to the unbarring of the Admiral- Jurisdiction. SCJat all manner of suits depending between the Town of Great Yarmouth and Sir Henry Jernegan, or between the same Town and the Town of Gorleston, should cease utterly. VH)llt during such time as Yarmouth Bridge should be in decay, whereby it should be needful to use ferriage for people over the water, it should be lawful for Sir Henry Jernegan, and his heirs, to use or take the profit of the Ferriage for all persons coming towards Yarmouth : and likewise, the Town of Great Yar- mouth to have like commodity of Ferriage for aU that should pass over the water at Yarmouth. And that for want of boats on either part, the one to supply in the want or absence of the other, on either side. Sfjat Sir Henry, and his heirs, shaU enjoy their foot Ferry, over against at Gorleston (Jgrleston, for ever, as had been used and then was. ®5at the Town of Yarmouth should thenceforth maintain their gate at the foot of the Bridge, as then was. ®5at in the time of the fishing, or sea-fare, all strangers and their boats should be treated with such reasonable consideration and courtesy, as neither they nor yet the country that requires to be served, should have any further just cause to complain. 5[f)at if any question should hereafter arise touching any articles or things con- tained in their order, that then, during their lives, the Comm" should have the construction thereof, because the meaning of their own order was to them best known. Sljat the inhabitants of Yarmouth might freely, without impeachment, take Ferriage at Yarmouth Foot Ferry Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larntoutfj.— 16X9. 167 their own boats and vessels, which by rage of weather and tides might be driven on land, on the other side of the Haven, as heretofore. ^at the inhabitants of Yarmouth sh'' put no Cattle upon the ground so doled out, unless it were severed and made fencible ; neither should they interrupt the Cattle of Sir Henry, or of his tenants, coming thereupon, before severence and fence be made. ^at the tenants of Sir Henry should be free from challenge to the Town of Yarmouth, if their boats or vessels should happen to ground without the Haven, and within the dooles, and let out for the town; and likewise, all Yarmouth boats and vessels should be as free, if they should happen to ground without the liberties of the Town, and without the ground doled for them, between the Town and Newton Cross. ^nlj here, gentle reader, before I pass any further, T hold it The author very meet for thy instruction, to express unto thee the great vexa- the enemies tions, suits, and troubles that this Town of G' Yarmouth, by the hath had to ' ' ' -I contend witli space of more than four hundred yeara, endured by means of four capital adversaries, which continually made war against it : which, when I do call to remembrance, I cannot but wonder that ever it hath had so long continuance or existence, and much more, how it hath attained to its present being ; for, like as a nian, who at first arose out of the earth, and to earth shall return again — so Yarmouth, which from out of the sea had its first beginning, should long since in the same have made the ending — but that the Lord, in mercy, {who hath set the bounds of the sea which it shall never overpass,) and minding to bless Yarmouth, to the end that it might do good to the whole kingdom, hath mightily delivered the same from them ; for never was (pardon me, I pray you, in this my comparison,) Israel more burdened, under the taskmasters of Egypt four hundred and thirty years, than Yarmouth, by and under these enemies, was grievously vexed. But, as it pleased the Divine Majesty to subdue all the enemies of Israel, and in his good time appointed, to bring them to a state of peace and tranquility, so hath he in like manner. Digitized by Microsoft® 168 Jlansfjip's llistcirs o! in his great mercy and love, dealt by this Town of Great Yarmouth, in appeasing those contentions, and giving unto them all peace and quiet. The Lord make us all truly thankful for it ! So that with the kingly prophet David, every one of us may say, and study to perform, what is spoken of in Psalm cxvi., v. 12*'', 13"", 14% — " What shall I render unto the Lord for all his benefits towards me ? I mil take the cup of salvation and call upon the name of the Lord. Iwillpay my vows unto the Lord now in the presence of all his people." Remembering what Marcus Sabellicus, Lib. vii., cap. 1, saith, — " Gratitude est virtutum omnium laudatissima : res Deo et hominibus grata,jucunda grataque nobis." For my own part, I will sing with Ovid, Trist. Eleg. I., lib. iv.,— " Hcec mihi semper erunt imis infixa 3Iedullis Perpetuusque animi debitor hujus ero. Sjnritus et vacuas prius hie tenuendus in auras Ibit, et in tepido deseret ossa rogo, Quam subeant animo meritorwm oblivia nostra, Et longdpietas exeidat iste die." And as Sophocles saith, — " Gratiam adfert gratia, beneficium semper beneficiumparit." The "enemies 'STiJese cuemics being, as I have said, four in number, did, like of Yarmouth '' °' the four cardinal winds in every quarter, continually set forth boisterous blasts, and storms of suits, troubles, costs, expenses, and molestations, against it, — Ovid, Eleg. " Quisfuit, horrendos primus quiprotulit enses f ' ' Qudmferus, et vereferreus illefait ! Tunc cades hominum generi, funeprcelia nata, Tunc brevior dirts mortis aperta ma est'' Which here I will repeat in order, beginning as the seamen do in the points of their compass, towai-ds the north : where first the of'cS' Lords Bardolf, after them the Fastolfs, and lastly the Fastens, Digitized by Microsoft® ©Tcat ^armoutfj,— 1619. 169 Lords of Caister, — who, for the extent of Yarm° liberties to the northward, did evermore trouble not only the township, but also sundry private inhabitants of Yarmouth, about commonage of cat- tle, wherein many great suits were moved between them ; till the same were, by special commission from King Henry VIII. then, being, determined and ended : w'^^ in due place shall (God willing) be declared unto you. ■^TSj next enemy, though insensible, was the raging sea to the The ocean east, which, from the first appearing of their buildings, hath contin- ually beaten upon them, and long since had inrushed not only upon Yarmouth, but also on the whole territories adjoining, had not the same, by a great number of thousand pounds, by that township disbursed, been strangled; and so, blessed be God, prevailed against it : which, in the discourse of the charge of the Haven aforesaid, hath been before plainly declared unto you. ®5e third adversary to the southward were the Earls of Ches- ^^^ i,„,js „f ter and Richmond, viz., John, Ralph, and Ranulph, successively ; °* '°^ ^° and after them, John of Britain, who dying without issue male, the whole inheritance descended unto three of his sister's daughters, whereof one, unto whom this Lothingland befel, was named Dever- goil, married to John Baliol, father to John Baliol who afterwards was King of Scots ; and after that, this Lothingland was given to one other John of Britain, Earl of Richmond. All which were Lords of Lothingland, and did, from time to time, in His Majesty's courts, for two causes greatly trouble them. The one, for their moiety of the Haven, which they challenged and pretended to belong unto them : which controversy, the 24*'' day of June, anno 1331, in the fifth year of the reign of King Edward III., was fully ended and determined ; and the same, the 10* day of July, anno 1332, in the sixth year of that King, under the great seal of England, was exem- plified; which doth at this present remain in the vestry of Yarmouth Digitized by Microsoft® 170 ilansijtp's l^istors of aforesaid. The other cause was touching the extent of Yarmouth liberties by land to the Southward, which had much longer con- tinuance, viz., until the time that Sir Henry Jernegan became owner of that half-hundred of Lothingland : but when and how the same contention was ended, this book hereafter (God assisting me) shall manifest unto you. The Barons 'STfit fourth wcrc the Barons of the five ports ; which I place of the Cinque _ r ' l Ports on the west part, and with great reason, for that western men they be by us commonly called : who, as of all others they were the mightiest, so had they longest continuance; but yet at length, (praised be God) by peaceable and quiet means, came to a full period: which, when I shall come to speak of the Free Fair, shall be (God assisting me) at large also expressed unto you. The men of ® f one othcr cnemv, the Inhabitants of Lowestoft, which ever Lowestoft _ •" _ _ ' since the 46*'' year of Edward III. till this present, have troubled this Township, touching the extent of its liberties by sea to the southward, and the place where Kirkley Road is situated, I will not trouble you nor myself with the remembrance of them at this pre- sent, but it may be I will hereafter write something of it, before I make an end of what I formerly intended, if God give me life to perform it ; the rather for that, whilst I was writing hereof, I was, by special well-wishers to Yarmouth, (whose request I would not willingly deny,) most earnestly desired to leave some memory to pos- terity of their proceedings against us, — myself being sundry times, by that Township, appointed to defend the case against them. In the meantime have I thought good, in this place, to declare thus much of these mighty contentions as I have said unto thee ; to the end that this Town being so in peace at this present, and freed from such troubles, may, with all the inhabitants, be thankful to God for it; and, to the uttermost of their power, (as our predecessors have done before us,) labour so to continue the same in peace and traa- Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutfj,— I6t9. 171 quility, to the world's ending. Amen ! For as Bap* Manton, Be Pace, says, " Pax plena virtutis." But now to return to the bounds of Yarmouth to the northward, wherein is at large expressed how the said great controversy, touching the same, was fully and finally determined and ended. It doth appear, by ancient records, that, in the time of Edward ''''''^^"™i'' the Confessor, aforesaid, there were two several channels : the one xown was"'^ passing forth of the north, betwixt Yarmouth and Caister, called, *''™*^* more than four hundred years past, (as by the records remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth appeareth,) Grubb's Haven, and, by some of the later times. Cockle Water; the other, Jer, which did, by the space of four miles, pass under the Cliff to the southward, as shall (God willing) hereafter be more at large declared. But now to pro- ceed to say something where the same Grubb's Haven had issue. JMgSJIf, by a general report, having heard of such a Haven, Grubb's and of great questions which have been moved by the Lords of Caister against Yarmouth, for the bounds of either township, have of long time desired to be certainly informed, where the same had outlet into the great ocean, and the ocean had issue into it. After The author's some extraordinary pains taken, I found where it had out-passage : discover its exact site the which as willingly I do deliver unto you as myself was desirous to know it, for I am not of the disposition of those which do, as much as in them lies, conceal all knowledge from others, (yea, although it be to the harm of the Commonwealth) to the end they may be admired for their knowledge, or get money to fill their coffers. By a brief repertory, now in the custody of M'' John Cold- ham, the senior Alderman of Yarmouth, (and which, as one ever de- sirous to do all the good he can for that Township, he most willingly and kindly shewed unto me,) amongst many good observations col- lected by Francis Thirkle, (the third in number before me Clerk to the Assembly,) it appeareth that great suits and questions did of long x2 Digitized by Microsoft® 172 MmsW^ Htstorg of Disputes time continue betwixt the men of Caister and Yarmouth, touching caister men the extent of either of the Towns' Uberties, (as by the ancient Roll remaining in the Vestry of Yarmouth also appeareth.) Yarmouth challenging to Grubb's Haven, to the northward, and they of Caister to the Cross in the Sands, within Yarmouth liberties, to thesouthward; between which two places there is more than two furlongs distance : by means whereof, many suits and troubles were moved by either party, in the vehementest manner that might be ; each chasing and impounding other's cattle, as extremity of law would permit them. wl™eT'^s Yarmouth not sparing the Bailiffs themselves, if at any time they roTmain""^ Were rcmiss in maintaining their liberties. Insomuch, that John liberties Palmer and John Garton, (who were Bailiffs in the year of our Lord God, 1522,) for suffering S"' William Paston to carry away the wreck of a ship, which was the " Admiral of Sluys" which perished to the south of that haven, were in the year following, (John Ladd and Tho= Gladon, BailiflFs) discommended. The Town (Igf thcsc broils and garbroils complaint was made to the makes com- D^of N° ^P ^'§^ ^^^ migbty prince, Thomas (the last but one of that name) Duke of Norfolk, at his coming to Yarmouth, in the year of our Lord, 1545, in the 36* year of King Henry VHI., (William Bur- rowe and Tho= Echard, Bailiffs,) at such time as he was sent hither by his Majesty to take view of this township, and for the fortifying thereof: when he promised to be a means to the King to have the controversies determined. Whereupon, as beseeming so worthy a prince, not forgetting his promise nor his true love to this township, (the good and quiet whereof he highly respected,) the next year A commis- following he obtained a Commission. Now, for that great affairs 'dLputes""* require many hands to determine, and many hands to bring them to pass, according to that, "Magna negotia magnis adjutoribus egent" he caused the same to be directed to His Highness, and unto Thomas Lord Burgh, S^ Robert Southwell, S;^ Roger Townsendj Digitized by Microsoft® (great |[armout!j,— 16X9, 173 S"^ Edw* Wyndham, Sir John Jernegan, knights ; Rob' Holding, John Garnell, Tho^ Gowdy, and John Corbett, esq'% to hear and end ^^^ ^^^_ the controversy. And continuing here at the Priory, at the Town's "ip ""SI charge, by the space of two days, taking great pains in the business, day"'' '"' at length, by a tripartite Indenture, (which, since the sight of the brief Repertory aforesaid, I have seen in the Vestry of Yarmouth,) dated the 30"^ day of April, ] 546, in the 38*'' year of the reign of King Henry VHI., (Ralph Ashley and WiUiam Woolhouse, then being Bailiffs) under their seal, it was concluded, that a ditch of twelve They decree o I ' ' ^ a settlement feet wide, should be made, to divide the bounds of either Towns asunder : for the due placing whereof, four men, viz., two of Yar- mouth and two of Caister, were appointed to carry a line, which should extend from the said Cross to the Haven aforesaid; and the said ditch to be wrought in the very midst between them : also de- creeing that the men of Yarmouth sh'^ maintain the east part, and the inhabitants of Caister the west part, for evermore. Insomuch, that on the 12*'' day of May, 1546, the Yarmouth men, beginning their work, in eie:ht days following; finished the same. Wherefore on either a cross ^ o J o erected as a side of the common, a cross is in the earth maintained and kept J™^^^^,^,'; up to limit the fences aforesaid. & Yarmouth ^0 that now it plainly appeareth where the said channel of Grubb's Haven had his current, but long since, by sand heaps, (which the reciprocal course of the tides brought in,) the same was dammed up, as is before declared : so that the whole level of the marshes, which then was sea, by the mercy of God and the goodness of the Haven of Yarmouth, is now become firm ground, and doth yield profits to the owners. And no remain of any Haven is there to be seen: for, in the year of our Lord, 1578, at such time as The land • 1 -1 1 1 n T-t -^T-j-S^* Grubb's Queen Ehzabeth came to Norwich, and many lords of Her Majesty s Haven is Jevelled Council to Yarmouth, the same, by the commandment of S-^ William anno isrs Paston, for more easy passage, was levelled and made even with the Digitized by Microsoft® 174 piansljtp's l^istors of common, aforesaid. "Whereupon, as Pythagoras, in Ovid, saith of islands disjoined, or shrinking back of waters, so may we of this level which is now joined to the continent, speak truly, — " Vidi ego quod quondam fuerat solidissima Tellus Jffetamorph, _ _ . , . - ^n m Lib. XV. £sse Jf return ; vidi facias ex (Equore lerraa. Main ground, myself sometimes have seen, Turn'd into sea and sand : And seen again, I have, the sea Become firm settled land. And like as Romney Marsh, being sometimes sea, is now excellent pasture for the feeding of cattle, and hath, by little, been laid unto the land by the very retiring of the sea. Whereupon, as Herodotus called Egypt the gift of the good ocean, and as a very learned man called the pastures of Holland the gift of the north-west winds, so may I call the Town of Great Yarmouth, with the Denes, the gift Yarmouth •' • i i i T reclaimed ^f ^jjg north-cast winds ; for the sea, to make amends, yieldeth that again to Yarmouth, which it swalloweth up all alongst the coast which do lie to the north and south of the same : for thus are sea towns subject to the uncertain vicissitudes of the sea. So that, before the said Jforth Haven was stopped, it might well be said of this Town, as Virgil once said of this our Britain, — "EtpenitHs toto divisos orbe Britannos," ^c. As British soil from all the world is parted, So Yarmouth Town from British land is severed. And as one saith, — Whom surging waves of sea, loth night and day, Inclose perforce, and cause them there to stay. 23ut all questions being since that time (thanks be to God) de- termined as aforesaid, both the Townships have ever since (and so do to this present) enjoyed their liberties in very great peace and quiet : insomuch that S"' William Paston, who deceased this life anno 1610, Eel. I. 67 Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat ifarmoutfj.— 1619. 175 hath given to the poor of this Town, out of his lands in Caister sirw.Paston , leaves by his aforesaid, £8 per annum for ever. Therefore, may it truly be said, — ^^'^ f' F'r- TFhere townships near do well agree, ™™ ^°*" Tlie fruits thereof by this you see ; As discord did great troubles lately move, All now is ceased, and turned into love. And one excellently well saith, — " Gignit amor paeem, pax et dignissima rerum: Lis odium gignit, pax et concordia siringit." SStl^eretipon in the next year following, was a house built, near Ahousebuiit 1 iM ■ -11 1 /< • -I T foryneatherd unto the liberties and bounds aforesaid, by the Township of Yar- "nno 1547 mouth, for the Neatherd to abide and dwell in, to have care as well of the Town cattle, as also of the fences and inclosures ; whereby all questions which might arise between the two Townships, for not maintaining of them, might be avoided. Which house, in the year The house is of our Lord 1549, in the time of the rebellion by Robert Kett and his ^y Kett's accomplices, in Norf, was pulled down and defaced, as they would have done the whole commonwealth, if they had not been sup- pressed by authority and dispersed : but in the year of our Lord 1553, (Christopher Haylett and John Echard then being Bailiffs,) is rebuilt the same was again new built for the use aforesaid. ^5U8 hast thou, gentle reader, heard an end of that matter, which had so long continuance for our liberties to the northward. The end of the other controversies thou shalt hear (God willing) in such order as I shall have occasion to write of them. In the mean time I will, by thy good leave, return again to the Town of Yarmouth itself. ^Oto, forasmuch as the principal care of the Magistrate, next Theautyof msg istr£it6S unto the Divine worship, is for the provision of victuals for the people, (without which the commonwealth could not have any con- tinuance,) therefore, do the Bailiffs and Justices of Yarmouth Digitized by Microsoft® 176 MmsW^ llistorij of Provision yearly, about one month before S' Michael the Archangel, take a store pre- , . . , . . pared for due examination what provision every victualler hath provided for ^^' the time of the Free Fair coming ; and if they find there be not sufficient, then is there care had to make supply accordingly. There is never less want than at that season, when of all things, (blessed be the Almighty) there is great plenty : for the better effecting whereof, markets were in every commonwealth established ; to the end that as well the townsmen may be provided of victuals necessary for household, as that the country farmer may be furnished with money, and neither of them to travel far for either, it is therefore wisely ordered that almost all great Towns in this kingdom have one Market day in a week, at the least, for buying and selling the corn- Yarmouth ■ modities aforesaid. And, therefore, amongst others, Yarmouth hath, by^prescrip- time out of mind, enjoyed by prescription a very fair Market, holden upon the Saturday in every week : whereunto great store, as well of victuals, as of twine and other necessaries for sea causes, which the Town needeth, be continually brought here, and bought and by"h°rter sold : both which Fair and Market be confirmed by the charter ja°mes ^^ granted unto that Township, by His Majesty that now is. Marketplace SffilStCJb Market Placc was, in anno 1385, appointed, prepared,, is paved , anno 1385 and pavcd, and a Cross and Pillory built on it. But the cross, in andpiiiory proccss of time decaying, anno 1509, (Henry Bemond and John erected Garton, Bailiffs,) a very fair Cross was, at the Town's charges, newly erected, and very fairly paved and leaded ; for the safe guard- ing of the people from wet, and for the dry keeping of the corn, which, every Market day is brought thither in great abundance : whereunto be fixed the measures to buy and sell with ; and wherein Town mea- sures placed the Bailiffs (who be Clerks of the Market,) do sit and hold court, to in the mar- ^ ^/ > ket cross enquire of all matters concerning that business, and to punish the offenders accordingly. A Pillory, also, was again rebuilded by the Town 5 to whom power was granted, by the gracious charter of our Digitized by Microsoft® ^reat larmout!)*— 1619, 177 late good Queen Elizabeth,, (who thereby amongst many other large privileges, created them clerks of the same,) to punish all such as were presented unto them. Which Cross also decaying, another, in ^o'i's'buiit stateliness not much inferior to the Cross aforesaid, in the year of ™'"''^''* our Lord 1604, (Henry Stanton and John Gyles, Bailiffs,) was like- wise built and leaded, for the defence of the women bringing butter, cheese, and such like victuals to the market. In the top whereof, offenders a place whereon malefactors adjudged for their offences, do receive on tuetop a?cordingly : whereon, likewise, be fixed such twine and nets, as be found in their measure and length defective. And the Market Place itself, to the northward, was also at that time greatly enlarged. In the year of our Lord 1546, being the SS**" year of the reign House foit of King Henry VIII., (Ralph Ashley and William Woolhouse tuffis Bailiffs,) at the Town's charges, was built and finished a special, large, anno 1546 and spacious house, for country butchers ; who, weekly upon the Saturday, (being the market day,) do bring and utter of flesh-meat great plenty. The which house the Magistrates finding to be con- venient for the whole Town, in the year of our Lord 1551, being the fifth year of the reign of King Edward VI., (William Mayhew and Nicholas Firmage, Bailiffs) they caused those Flesh Shambles f„'',^^J'|''' which be on the east side of the Market, to be built at the Town I'^^^^^l^ charges : enjoining all the Town's butchers there to sell their *°°° ^"* victuals, and not elsewhere in the Town, upon pain of loss of twenty shiUings, and to be discommoned. And for their better encourage- ment, the next year following, (William Mayhew and Nicholas Firmage, Bailiffs,) it was by an act of Assembly agreed, that those butchers should enjoy their stalls during their lives, paying their farms accordingly. jSeXt after the Market followeth the Fair : which, by pre- ^^^^ ^^.^ scription is holden, (and now both it and the Market are by the said Qo^ajP-^ay charter of King James confirmed,) on the Friday before Easter, y Digitized by Microsoft® 178 ilTans'fjtp's History of commonly called Good Friday. Which hath only one day's contin- uance ; therefore, leaving it, I think it time not unfit to write some- The Herring what of the most ancient and famous Free Fair, which yearly is or Free Fair j^qJ jgjj j^(. Yarmouth aforesaid, beginning at the Feast of S* Michael the Archangel, and continuing until the Feast of S* Martin the Bishop, in winter : and whereunto resort the fishermen of England, France, Flanders, Holland, and Zealand, For government whereof, ofthSque long before the incorporation of Yarmouth aforesaid, the Barons of fo°Ylrm'"uth the Fivc Ports, (who then, as before I have said, were the principal Herring Fair navigators of England,) used to send certain of their Com-Barons hither, viz., before the days of Edward the Confessor, who began his reign in the year of our Lord 1042 ; which, from that time until the year 1619, amounteth to 577 years without discontinuance : such a royalty as not the like has been, that ever I have read of, within any of His Majesty's dominions. The performance whereof, as it is now executed, I will, (God assisting me,) express unto you. Namesofthe ^oto, to Carry my work before me. I will first set down unto Cinque ports vvhich be those five ports which do send Bailiff's to Yarmouth, with the limbs and members thereunto belonging ; lest by believ- ing in the old rhyme of <• Dover, Sandwicus, Rye, Rum, Frig-Mari- Ventus," thou be deceived. And then the manner of their coming and sending hither : and lastly, what they do perform, being here, ©f)^ names of the said five ports, and their members, follow : 1 Hastings, in Sussex 2 RuMNET 3 Htthe 4 Dover 5 Sandwich, in Kent. Unto which be united the two ancient towns. Rye and Winchelsea, in Sussex, ^ntO these ports do belong these several members hereafter severally distinguished. Digitized by Microsoft® 0reat f armout|j,— 1619, 179 ^nitinn^ hath Pevensy, Seaford, Bulverhithe, Detit, and Hundney, in the Names of the members county of Sussex; Brakesborne, Grange, also, Grenoh, m the county of Kent, of the cinque SEtumnrg hath Bi-oomhill, in Sussex and Kent ; Lidd and old Rumney, Deng- """^ marsh, Orwardston or Welston, in Kent. |§ttl)j hath only the town of West Hithe in Kent. SBobev hath Folkston, Feversham, Margaret, S' John's, Goresand, Birching- ton, Woad or Wood Church, S' Peter's, in the Isle of Thanet ; Kingsdown and Ringwold, in Kent. ^/atlUiaiti) hath Foreditch, Deal, Walmer, Ramsgate, Stoner, and Sarr, in Kent ; and Brightingsea, commonly called Brichlesea, in Essex. JSpe hath only the town and hundred of Tenderden, in Kent. ISBinciiatlSea, hath not any members belonging to it. ^11 which of the said five ports, the two ancient towns, with Folkston, Feversham, Foreditch, and Tenderden, be incorporated, by the name of Mayor, Jurats, and Commonalty. All which towns and their members, do yearly contribute to the charge of the coming of their BailiiFs to Yarmouth. i3ut, before I proceed to speak of the manner of their election, Number and I think good to say something of the change and alteration of the Barons of the , Cinque ports number of the Com-Barons, sent hither for that purpose, since anno 1339 their first coming hither in the days of Edward I. There came, as I find entered in the Rolls of Yarmouth, in the IS*'^ year of that King, ten : whose names, and from whence they were sent, fol- loweth : One from Hastings Lawrence De Winfongees One from Dover William De Mart _ ^ ^^ ( Robert Seele Two from Hithe { „ „, I Simon Waldis „ ( John Lawrence Two from Rumnet i - tt ■^ I John Hammer One from Rye Walter Gregory One from Sandwich Thos. Le Fatjlkenee (Wm. Matnard Two from Winchaelsea | ^^^^_ ^^^^^^^^ y2 Digitized by Microsoft® 180 MmsW^ f^tstors of And which number, for the most part, still continued, until the 21*' roooperaons 7^^^ °^ Edward III. ; at which time the great mortality happening fn^YamS in Yarmouth, whereof died 7,000 in one year, there came but seven Bailiffs from them : and for four years after that came nine. But, after the 33'^^ year of that King, (in which great contention happened betwixt Yarmouth and them,) that is, in the 34"^ year of his reign, there came but four, viz., from every of the ports of Hastings, Winchaelsea, Rumney, and Rye, one and no more, (for ought that ever I have found in the rolls of Yarmouth,) bringing, notwithstand- ing, several commissions from every the ports aforesaid. But I will not be tedious to you, gentle reader, nor to myself, to trace out precisely the several changes of the number sent to us, for I find sometimes more, sometimes fewer ; thus, in the year 1555, (Robert Eyer and John Crowe, Bailiffs,) there came four, and the year fol- lowing, three : the number being now, and so of long time has been, reduced to two, who be confirmed by the whole number of the ports and two ancient towns under their seals ; as presently shall (God willing) be declared unto you. It foUoweth now, by order before promised, that I should shew you the manner of election and com- ing of the said ten Bailifis to Yarmouth, aforesaid. ©]&£ ports and towns well know and observe when their turn The mode in happeneth ; and, most commonly in the month of June, or beginning eSdthei?"^"'^"^^' ^^ ^^^^^ common Assemblies of Mayor, Jurats, and Com- Bauiffs monalty, or the most part of them, in every particular port or town, they do elect one in that year, when by course it happeneth. And, at a general Assembly (which they call their Brotherhood,) of the said Cinque Ports and two ancient towns of Rye and Winchaelsea, on the Tuesday after the feast of S* Margaret, yearly holden, usually at Rumney, by reason it is the next port in the midway of all the said ports ; unto which Brotherhood, commonly the mayor of every port or town, the baron or his deputy, with three jurats, the town Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat ^armoutid.— 1619* 181 clerk, and two commoners, (one commonly treasurer of that port or town,) come, and there present unto them the two men whom they, before their coming, elected to be Bailiffs for Yarmouth : and there the two Bailiffs so elected, stand by themselves, and receive their full allowance. And if any, for matter alleged by himself, or knowledge of that Assembly, shall not be thought meet to perform that service, then it is ordered that another of that town shall be forthwith chosen, and his name sent in writing to the rest of the ports and towns, to receive allowance : but, it very seldom happen- eth that any there are disallowed. The persons chosen are jurats of the town from whence they are chosen, and are called, the one the Bailiff of the West Ports, and the other, of the East Ports ; and have two several commissions, under the common seals of those ports and towns. Sandwich, Dover, Hythe, and Rumney, are accounted the East Ports : and when the Bailiff cometh from any of these four ports, his commission is sealed with their common seal. Hastings, Rye, and Winchaelsea, are accounted the West Ports : and the Bailiff from them hath his commission sealed with the com- mon seals of Hastings, (one of the five ports,) and of the said two ancient towns of Rye and Winchaelsea. f^afaing spoken of the manner of their election, next foUoweth The orser in to be declared what order they observe in their coming, to the end come Mther that the charge may be borne the more indifferently. Hastings and Dover come together, and the fifth year after ; Hythe and Rye do come together, and so the sixth year following they do the like j Sandwich and Winchaelsea do come together, and the eighth year after do the like ; Hastings and Rumney come together, and so do the like the seventh year following. jgoto followeth, in the third place, to tell you what they do concerning perform at their coming to Yarmouth, aforesaid. These two men Ibl Miiffs so sentj be termed Bailiffs for Yarmouth, and do yearly, upon the " Digitized by Microsoft® 182 JEansfjijj's l^tstor^ o! vigil or eve of the first day of S' Michael the archangel, make their Their officers ^^P^^*" ^^^ Yarmouth, aforesaid, unto a house which they do there hire for the purpose, (for one of their own there they never had any,) bringing with them their learned counsel, town clerk, two sergeants bearing white rods, a brazen-horn sounder, one carrying a banner of the arms of the ports, and a jailer : and being come thither many times, the Bailiffs of Yarmouth (the then new-elects) and Entertained somc of their brethren, within few hours after, do repair to their lod- of Yarmouth ging, and them coirrteously do entertain and welcome : and that is all that is done that evening. Which rod and banner bearers, with the brazen-horn sounder, were constituted and appointed by the edict made and established by King Edward I., the 11*'' day of May, in the fifth year of his reign, in this wise, — that during the fair, they (meaning the Barons of Cinque Ports) shall have four ser- geants, whereof one to bear a banner, another to blow a horn, to assemble the people together in convenient manner, for proclama- tion to be heard the better, and other two to bear white rods, to keep the peace : and these, among other matters therein contained for rule and government of the fair, and the quiet both of the ports and Yarmputh, be hitherto still continued. Wi)t next day, being the feast of S* Michael, all the Com- t^DhuX'" Barons' Bailiffs repairing to church to hear divine service, the Bailiffs of Yarmouth do of their courtesy (I term it in courtesy, for place amongst them there, by right, they cannot challenge any,) send for them to take place in their seats by them ; and after divine service read, each do take leave of other. 'Wi}m do the BaiUffs of Yarmouth, with their brethren in their Assemble at scarlet robes attending on them, directly repair to the Tolhouse, the the Tolhouse -r* ■!•«» i • j. i iU • place thereto appointed : where the new BaUiffs havmg taken their charge, and their justices, constables, and other oflBcers, being chosen and sworn, they do immediately send for the Barons afore- Digitized by Microsoft® 0rrat iarmoutfj.— 1619. 183 saidjwho, coming thither, do for the most part, at their first entrance, deliver some short speech, tending to this effect : to shew who they be ; from whence, and wherefore, they do come hither ; and desir- Their com- ing to be received and respected accordingly. And there, also, they '"'°"''" '^^ do exhibit two several commissions unto the Bailiffs of Yarmouth, viz., the one, being authorized by the Barons of the East Ports, and the other being authorized by the Barons of the West Ports ; which, being openly read, they be admitted (and not before) to have place with the Bailiffs of Yarmouth, aforesaid. Then be the names of recoided them and all their attendants recorded, by the deputy or clerk of the Recorder of Yarmouth, in their court book for the year fol- lowing. Then, having taken a view of the prisoners in the Gaol of view the Yarmouth, and agreeing when the first Court for the Free Fair shall t^ oalT '" be holden, they all do depart from the Hall aforesaid ; the senior Bailiff of Yarmouth inviting the Com-Barons' Bailiffs and all their company to dinner, and his co-partner, them to sui)per : where, in jhcy are most friendly manner, they the whole day do royally feast, and be ^^*"' very merry together. ^nS, upon the first court day, so agreed upon, the same in J*^^"^;^^''^ very solemn manner is holden. And a party inquest, which is called the "Quest of the Free Fair " \\z., six men of Yarmouth, and six other of the Portsmen, whom they for that purpose do bring from thence with them, be charged and sworn, to enquire of all mis- demeanours at Yarmouth aforesaid, or within the liberties thereof, committed or done during the Free Fair aforesaid; with many other things, expressed in articles delivered unto them : which, as offences be found and presented, the offenders are punished accord- ingly. And upon the second court holden, (which, for the most la^ic^u^^^ part, is the next week following,) the junior Bailiff of Yarmouth, as his senior brother Bailiff hath done before him, doth also keep a solemn dinner ; whereunto not only the Com-Barons' Bailiffs, with Digitized by Microsoft® 184 MmsW^ l^istorg Of! their whole retinue, but also, sundry of the Aldermen of Yarmouth, their brethren, with their wives, be solemnly invited to bear them company: where, in like manner, they do with great cheer very friendly pass the time together. ^nlJ here, without partiality or wrong doing, may I not over- S°he"cta'ue P^^® ^^*^ ^ silcnt pen the exceeding bountiful fare, feasting, and ports' bailiffs j.Qyj^j cheer, and (as it were) open-house keeping, wherewith the Com-Barons' Bailiffs, aforesaid, in a fair house which they do hire to that intent, (as is before remembered,) do give entertainment thereat, in, by, and during the one-and-twenty days of their abiding at Yar- mouth, aforesaid; as well for gentlemen of Yarmouth and the country adjoining, as also for a great number of their own country- men, who, during that season, do fish at Yarmouth, and at their pleasure do come to make merry with them : and, that the same may be the better performed, they do commonly bring sixteen or eighteen hogsheads of excellent beer from home, with them. 23£SiJJe8, the aforesaid Com-Barons' Bailiffs, by way of requital, ghreJfbrthe or of a kind farewell to Yarmouth, do solemnly hold a very costly Bai2ffr"'° and sumptuous feast, in the third week of their abiding^ which they do most especially prepare for the Bailiffs, Aldermen, and other the substantiaUst sort of the inhabitants of G* Yarmouth, with their wives also, (yet be not any good fellows excluded the company,) and at which all sorts of delicates be provided which may be had for They return monev. Which being finished, within two or three days after, with homeward •' i i i i i i j most kind congratulations each to other, they do depart homeward ; where, at a certain day and place appointed, they do declare to the whole brotherhood assembled, all their proceedings and acts passed at Yarmouth : which is by the said company commended or dis- commended accordingly. And so there is an end of that year's business. 51gB|)Bn I call to mind, courteous reader, the often jars, con- tentions, and bloodsheds, both by sea and land, that for many hund- Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat larmoutij,— ;619» 185 red years continued between them, notwithstanding, in the meantime, the king's royal edicts and commandments for order, acts of parliament enjoining, friends mediating, and commissions determining between them : yet were the contentions so hot and sundry grie- 111-1 1 '71 '11 ^^^^ conten- unanpeasable betwixt them, the one pursuing the other with such tions& divers '^^ 7 . . misdeeds deadly hatred, especially between the first beginning of the reign of committed Edward I. and the tenth year of Richard II., that many murders, manslaughters, spoils, and havocs, were committed betwixt them : for as I find by a special pardon, remaining in the Vestry, touching divers spoils and harms which Yarmouth had committed against them, alongst the coasts, even to Shoreham, Portsmouth, and sun- dry other places, that Yarmouth was fined in £1,000 ; which, by fln™£i%o the charter of 2°* December, 1281, of the former King, in the lO*"* of wards was " , , remitted his reign, (now 332 years past,) was released unto them. So do I find by a special commission granted by His Majesty unto Roger Savage and Richard Walsingham, (two of His Majesty's Justices,) for the enquiry of the disputes, &c.,between the Ports and Yarmouth, that by an Inquisition before them, taken the Friday next after the feast of S' Gregory, in the 31^' year of his reign, by the oaths of twenty good men, that the town has sustained in damages by them, the sum of £20,123. JJlOtJObct, Ralph HoUingshead, in his Chronicle of the History contentions of England, mentions the acts performed in the 25* year of the cingue Ports reign of that King, who passing, into Flanders to the aid of the Earl thereof against the French King, was no sooner at land, but that, through an old grudge betwixt the portsmen and Yarm", of long time depending, they fell together and fought on the water in such earnest wise, (notwithstanding the King commanded the '^^^ ^o"^"- ' ^ *-' ^ men spoil contrary,) that 25 ships of Yarmouth, and their partakers, were Snglng^o burned. I do not find that so many were burned ; but, by a com- ^*™°"*'' plaint and presentment, made by Yarmouth, that year unto His Digitized by Microsoft® 186 |Hans!)ip's l^istor^ of Majesty, which remaineth in the Vestry, in the records of that year, it appeareth that 37 ships were by the Portsmen greatly spoiled, 171 men slain, and goods to the value of £45,360 spoiled and taken from them: for all of which a grievous requital was by Yarmouth, not long after, performed against them. Which dissensions continuing in grievous manner betwixt them, all the days of Edward I., II., and III. of that name, more especially in the 33''^ year of Edward III. until the tenth year of Richard IL, his grandchild, (the son of the Black Prince, son to King Edward III.,) many spoils were by each committed to other : whereby many wives were made widows, children fatherless, and many rich made poor, besides the great hindrance of the good proceeding of the affairs of the king and kingdom. In which said 10*'' year of King Richard II., an agree- ment was, by His Majesty, made between them : which, being agreed on, he commanded to be proclaimed throughout all his king- doms, as well on this side as beyond the seas ; and to be kept, under a grievous punishment to be inflicted on the first offender : by means whereof, a more mild carriage than formerly was held betwixt them. Yet never a year passed without some jars, questions, or dis- contentments, (which, for brevity sake, I pass over,) until at length, each party being overwearied and tired with suits and questions daily made between them, and other their good friends and well-wishers, being sorry to see such emulation, strifes, and contentions, many Suftmint times rising, de Una caprina (for very trifles,) both parties agreed putes '*''" that the same should be appeased and ended. And, to that end, several commissions were granted, by either party, to certain dis- creet persons, viz. — to Thomas Gaudy, one of the Justices of the Queen's Majesty's Bench, Robert Bell, Francis Windham, Edward Flowerdew, Charles Cal thorp, and William Grice, Esq"' ; and to William Harbrowne and Thomas Damett, our Burgesses in Parlia- ment, on the part of Yarmouth ; and to Roger Manwood, one of Digitized by Microsoft® (^reat i[armout!i,— 1619, 187 the Queen's Majesty's Justices of the Common Pleas, John Jeffrys, one of Her Majesty's Serjeants at Law, William Lovelace, Serjeant at Law, John Boys, Esq'', Edw* Peake, Mayor of the Town of Sandwich, Thomas Lake, and Robert Boneham, our Com-Barons on the part of the Cinque Ports : who were empowered as well to hear, determine, and finally to conclude, all and singular strifes, de- bates, controversies, contentions, matters, and things whatsoever, between the parties. Who, by their award, bearing date the 3P' day of May, 1575, ordained, — " JFirSt. That the BaiKflfs of the Barons of the Cinque Ports, during the Free . ^^. ^ , " Fair at G' Yarmouth, shall have the administration of royal justice and keeping settlement " of the Queen's peace, together with the Bailiflfs of Yarmouth, as hath been " continued and used. " Item. That the Bailiffs of the said Barons of the Cinque Ports, shall then " and there, together with the Bailiffs of G' Yarmouth, have the holding and " determining of all pleas moved, or depending and determinable, during the " Free Fair there, according to the Law Merchant. " Itf m. That the Prison there, shall be kept jointly together by the said " Bailiffs of the Baions of the Cinque Ports, and the Bailiffs of Yarmouth, for all " Prisoners committed or remaining there, diu'ing the said Free Fair ; and at " their first coming, to peruse and have a view of the Prisoners, and to know the " cause why they are there imprisoned. " lEtem. That the prenominations of the style of the said court to be (alternis " vicibus) one year of the Bailiffs of the same Town of Great Yarmouth, and " another year to the Bailiffs of the Barons of the Cinque Ports f and the pre- " nomination of the next Free Fair to come, concerning the said Court, to be to " such of the Bailiffs of the Cinque Ports, as the said Roger Manwood and Tho" " Gaudy shall name in the indorsement hereof, and subscribe with their hands. " 3Etem. The proclamation of the Free Fair shall be in this manner and form : " that is to say, that the Bailiffs of the Barons of the Cinque Ports, with all their " usual officers and ornaments, shall, at then- usual place, assemble together ; and " that it shall be lawful unto the Bailiffs of Yarmouth, with their usual officers " and maces, to be then and there present, if they wiU : and in the name of all " the Queen's Majesty's Bailiffs, their present particular nomination, or prenomi- " nation of the said Bailiffs, of the said Barons or Bailiffs of G' Yarmouth, make " usual proclamation of the articles of the said Free Fair. Digitized by Microsoft® 188 JHausfjtiJ's Dltstora of " Item. That the Bailifis of the Barons of the said Ports shall, by all means " and ways that they conveniently may, cause as well their own Fishers and " people, as all other Fishers and people, not to discharge any Herrings, or other " merchandizes, dimng the time of the Free Fair, at any place within seven miles " of G' Yarmouth, but only at the said Town of Great Yarmouth : according to " the edict made between the said Barons and the Bailiffs and Burgesses of the " said Town of G' Yarmouth. " Item. Where it hath been used that a party inquest should be impanneUed, " whereof some to be of the Ports, and a like number of the said Town of G' " Yarmouth, to inquire of the misdemeanours and offences committed during the " Free Fair, and the same to present before the Bailiffs of G' Yarmouth, and the " Bailiffs of the said Barons ; the said inquiry shall from henceforth continue as " hath been used and accustomed. " Item. Whereas, of every Fisher Vessel, coming to Yarm° to the said Free " Fair, in ancient times, 4d. for toll or custom was paid to the BaUiffs of the " Cinque Ports ; which afterwards, by commission, was reduced to a sum certain, " of £6 yearly : now, for good and quiet accord, it is agreed that the said Bailiffs " of Great Yarmouth shall, from henceforth, pay to the said Bailifis of the Barons " of the Cinque Ports, at their departure from Great Yarmouth, £3 10s. for a " recompense and satisfaction of the said toll or custom of 4d. for eveiy such " boat, vessel, or fisher ; not charging in any wise any of the boats or ships of " any of the inhabitants of the Cinque Ports ; and in consideration thereof, the " said "Bailiffs of Yarmouth to be discharged of all averages to be demanded for " any time past. " Item. That all the inhabitants of the said Ports, and their members, to- " gether with their ships and merchandizes, shall be free of Denn and Strand, " and of all taxes, charges, and burthens unaccustomed whatsoever ; and have' " and enjoy all other their privileges, hberties, and commodities, whatsoever, " heretofore used, not repugnant to these articles and ordinances : and that they, " and every of them, shall and may frankly sell his or their herrings, unto whom " it shall please them, without let or interruption of the said BaUiffs of Yarmouth. " Item. That no supersedeas be awarded or made by the Bailii& of the Barons " of the Cinque Ports, of themselves, for discharging or setting at libei-ty of any " being arrested or bound for the peace or good behaviour, by warrant of the " said Bailiffs of Yarmouth. And, on the contrary part, that no supersedeas " shall be awarded or made by any of the said Bailiffs of Yarmouth, of themselves, Digitized by Microsoft® (Hreat ^armoutfi.— 1619> 189 " for discharge or setting at liberty, any arrested or bound for the peace or good " behaviour, by warrant of the said Bailiffs of the Barons of the Cinque Portsj " without warrant of both or one of the Bailiffs of the same ports. But that " every such supersedeas or other discharge shall be made, by consent of both, " or one of the said BaUiffs which granted the supersedeas during the said Free " Fair." tBliZ indorsement of the aforesaid articles and orders indented, is as folio weth, — last day of May, Anno Domini 1576 : for the next Free Fair within " mentioned, the prenomination within mentioned to be to the Bailiffs of the " Cinque Ports ; and the next year after, to be to the Bailiffs of Yarmouth ; and " so from thenceforth, alternis vicibus." WiiS which prenomination did happen, by lots cast by Justice Gaudy and Justice Manwood, for this first year, unto the Bailiffs of the Cinque Ports ; and for testimony, they subscribed their names on the backside also of the said articles, orders, and re- solutions indented, as by the same more at large appeareth. ®5uS, leaving both parties in peace, I will commit them both to the God of Peace ; in which, beseeching him to continue them for ever, I end for that matter. Thus hast thou, gentle reader, according to my promises, heard an end of all those great and long continued controversies moved by these four fore-named adver- saries of Yarmouth, which formerly I mentioned : whereof, this being the last, I will proceed to other business. f^abtng already spoken somewhat of the scite, original foun- F^*"^?™',"^ dation, increase, progress, material building, and present being of ^^"°„^/y^|j. the town of Great Yarmouth aforesaid, I do now mind (God assist- """"^ ing me) to say somewhat of those their charters, privileges, customs, orders, and good constitutions, whereby, God blessing them, that town hath received her first being, life, growth, greatness, and con- tinuance, until this instant ; and is reduced, thereby, into a civil and politick body, which maketh the formal building thereof. In Digitized by Microsoft® 190 JIans][)ip's f^istorg of the discourse whereof, if I shall fail, gentle reader, to satisfy thy expectations, impute it not, I pray thee, to my unwillingness, who would most gladly, as thou canst desire it, have given thee further The' Author knowledge : for to that end principally, (as knoweth God,) have I labors for the tii-i*i • -ni benefit of undertaken this work; tnat the posterity to come, especially such as be chosen into the body of the Assembly, may know how things have passed, and that they all should not (as hitherto they have been, to the unspeakable damage of the whole corporation,) be kept in ignorance, and be driven to beg and pay full dearly to receive knowledge from one man only, but that every one of them might dip his bucket and draw water of knowledge at his own well, at his The difficui- will and pleasure : but partly to the want of sight of many of these to contend thc towii Writings which do concern the business, and might have further enlightened my understanding ; and partly, to my removing more than nine years past from out of their society, in which time they have obtained a new created corporation, (which, by the bounty of our dread sovereign King James, by charter he hath vouchsafed unto them) ; and many laws, also, have in that time been by them enacted for government, whereof I am ignorant ; also, my discon- tinuance anddisuse of and in these things; have,^n that time, bred forgetfulness in me, whereby many things have out-slipped my memory. Yet do I remember what I promised touching the cor- poration or body politick of Yarmouth, and therefore, will proceed accordingly. Nature of 1Et)£rg commonwcal, as saith Aristotle (the prince of philo- K°e?ith™or sophers), is a company, and every company is ordained to some good, Body politic ^^^ most chiefly, to attain the most principal and most excellent good of others. Which company, consisting of sundry persons, whereas they be of divers different dispositions of mind inwardly, so be they of sundry professions, trades, and occupations, of body outwardly ; and as in every such person many sundry members Digitized by Microsoft® ©reat garmoutfj.— 1610, 191 distinct in ofHce are comprised, and brought to union and agree- ment by the soul, which, joined to the body, do make a natural body; so every commonwealth compounded of many such persons, is, by good laws, reduced into a civil society, which do make a politick body. And such laws be, in the city, as the spirit is in the body ; for, as the natural body without the spirit perish- eth, in like manner the politick body, which hath no laws for government, doth as soon fall to ruin and perdition : for without them, the gathering of men is but as a confused number, more meet to commit all evil and outrage, than otherwise to live quietly and peaceably together: for man, ever since his first fall, is prone to I all evil, except by authority and laws he be governed and ru led. J For, as that princely orator saith, " Laws be the bounds of the city, foundation of liberty, and fountain of equity ; for that in them do consist the very mind, soul, and council of the city." So even as our natural bodies cannot use their parts when they want a soul, neither can a politick body theirs, when they want laws to govern them. Nei- ther can such laws benefit a commonwealth, except there be a magis- trate to put life into them : and, therefore, no less is such a magistrate needful in the commonwealth than laws; for, to say the truth, good laws without magistrates be altogether unprofitable : for, no man (without the magistrates enforce) will have any care to keep them. So that, if they be both compared together, of the two, good magistrates be more needful, a great deal, than good laws : for, the force of laws doth not consist in the outward letter, but in the execution of them by the magistrate ; who is indifferently to admin- ister them to every one, whereby the laws be by them, and they by the laws, strengthened : so that a good magistrate is as well a law unto himself as unto others. Thus, as Demosthenes affirmeth, — " When there was not as yet any laws to rule the people by, then were the people governed by the power of the sentence only of the raagis- Digitized by Microsoft® 192 M^nsijiij^'s 5|tstor2 of trate," as well appeareth by the government of Rome under kings, before laws were established, who had power in themselves to do all things as they pleased : and, as Cicero saith, — " A magistrate is a speaking law." And as in the beginning, when God created the world, by his all-seeing wisdom, he did foresee that without ruling and obeying, neither the creatures in the world nor the world itself could long continue, and, therefore, appointed to all creatures a ruler or magistrate of their own kind, to rule over them ; as over birds, the eagle; beasts, the lion ; of fishes, the whale; and, over all these, man ; and, over man, a king. So that by this little that hath been said, it is evident that all living creatures do live by ruling and obeying: whereupon, S* Peter saith, writing to Clement, to com- mand and obey is agreeable to the laws of God's nature and nations : without which, a commonwealth were a monster, like unto a body without a head, and the head without members duly composed and knit unto it. Governors of WiiZ Consideration whereof, long since, no doubt, moved the appointed ' kiugs of this land, soon after that the people begun to build houses, and in them to inhabit and dwell, to take order for their rule and government ; whereupon, the first was appointed a ruler or governor over them^ called in latin, Praefecius or PrtBpositiis. It is to be noted, good reader, that they to whom the principal care of public buildings was, above others, in several places of this land committed, were termed and called by several epithets and titles, as Theirseverai Mayors, Bailiffs, Jurats, Provosts, Aldermen, Port-reeves, and others tltles&names i-iTTifN- i*i ii too long to express ; and m the Holy ocriptures, they which ruled over the people of God, were called first Judges and then Kings : all tending to one purpose, — to judge the people aright, and to govern YMmouth with equity. So also was a Provost appointed to rule and govern the people of Yarmouth, and to do and perform all offices meet for government : until such time as the people of Yarmouth began to Digitized by Microsoft® ©rcat ^armoutfi»— 1619* 193 multiply and increase in such wise, that they were able to do and perform such good service to their sovereign, that it pleased King John to incorporate and make them a body politick, by the name of b" K?jJba* " Our Burgesses of Yarmouth ;" not only endowing them with many large immunities and freedoms, but, amongst other things, giving them power to make them governors of themselves, which should be meet for the said King and themselves. By virtue whereof, they did yearly choose unto themselves four of their burgesses, whom Four Bailiffs they termed Bailiffs, to rule and govern them : w"^ number of four continued until the year of our Lord 1426, which was in the fifth year of King Henry VI., now 193 years past; at which time, for good cause them moving, they changed the number, and did reduce these to two, which hath ever till this day so continued amongst onTyeieited them. Yet, notwithstanding, for ought that ever I have hitherto Titles of ' , Incorpora- seen, I do not find that ever Yarmouth was incorporated by any tJo" other name than " Burgesses and good Men of Yarmouth," until the sixteenth day of May, in the ninth year of King Henry VII., who then, by his charter of that date, did there first name them " Bailiffs and Burgesses of Yarmouth :" yet not incorporating them by those epithets, but giving unto them many large immunities and freedoms. And now I will only note thus much further : that our gracious Lord, King James, by his charter, was the first, by the names of Bailiffs, Aldermen, Burgesses, and Commonalty, to in- corporate them. JFtnts. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES TO ffioMJfip'H Sistnrt} nf tont f artnfltitfr. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® 0oM. Page 1. — Yarmouth named. Gar was tlie original name of the river on which Yarmouth is built. The soft- ened form of Yar is due to the Anglo-Saxons, who gradually changed g into y, as in the word " yea," compared with the old Saxon " gea." Gar is the name of rivers in aU Celtic countries. Thus we have Oar-onne, in France, and Gar-ry, in Blair Athol. This syllable, gar, may be referred to the word gair, a noise ; gar-ion, " the noisy or swelling river " would be equivalent to gar-onne, and gar-mud (the Teutonic a being pronounced like th), "the noisy or swelling mouth," is expressive of the wide and boisterous estuary which existed in. the Anglo-Saxon times. The town of Yarmouth was never properly called Garianonum, which was the name given by the Romans to one of their fortified camps on the Garienis, or Yare. Yare, from the Saxon geara, means quick, eager, nimble ; and is used in this sense by Shakspere and other old writers. Page 1. — Sook of Doomsday, or Notitia of England. The Notitia Imperii, which contained a succinct account of the Roman Empire, comprising the names of her provinces and of their governors ; the names of civU magistrates and military commanders ; and the stations of the different forces, with other minute particulars, was compiled, as some say, in the reign of Theodosius ; or, accord- ing to others, in the time of Valentinian III. and Theodosius II. Aa Digitized by Microsoft® 198 NOTES. Somewhat similar was the Dom-hoc, compiled by King Alfted, when he divided England into counties, hundreds, and tythings. It referred to the time of Ethelred, and served as a register, by which judgment was given as to the ancient tenui-e of lands. A more complete survey was completed in 1086, by order of King William the Conqueror, but had reference to the time of King Edward the Confessor, containing the names of all hundreds, towns, and manors, hides, half-hides, virgates, and acres of land, with aU mills and fishings, within their several limits ; in some coimties, also, it gives the number of freemen, socmen, villains, bordars, young cattle, and all quadru- peds ; the number of beehives, and other particulars. Its authority, in all questions of title to land, was final ; hence, the name, Domesday Book. The following is a translation of the entry which relates to Great Yarmouth, — " ffiaSt llunlrwlr af JFlrg. King Edward held Yarmouth. There were always seventy " burgesses ; then it was valued with two parts soke of three hundred, £18 by tale j "and the Earl's part was £9 by tale. Now the King's two parts are £17 15s. 4rf. " Blancs ; and the Earl's part is £10 Blancs j and the Sheriif has four pounds and one " hawk, in the time of King Edward, for a fine. These four pounds the burgesses give " gratis, and in friendship. In the same, in King Edward's time, Almarus, the Bishop, " had a certain church of St. Bennet, the same now has "WiUiam, Bishop of the diocese, " and is valued at twenty shillings. The whole pays twelve pence for Geld." Many towns had their Dom-hoc, (as the Saxons called all books of laws and con- stitutions,) in which were entered the peculiar customs and privileges of the place, and such other matters as were to be remembered. The old " exemplication " mentioned by our author, (page 21,) was of this character : it appears to have been lost before Swinden's time, but the town had then another Domesday Book, from which he made extracts. Page 3. — Yarmouth, first called " Great." This is certainly an error, as in a Charter or Letters Patent comprising some Articles for the government of Yarmouth, bearing date in the 56"» of Henry III (anno 1272) the original of which, written in a singular commixture of Latin and Norman-French, is still extant, (although not in the custody of the Town Council,) the town is styled " (Sraunt (Sememm" The charter of Edward I. here referred to by Manship clearly therefore, only repeated the term abeady given to the town by King Henry. Some have supposed it to have been applied to distinguish the town from one of the same name in the Isle of Wight, and others, (with Swinden) as a contradistinction to Little Yarmouth ; which, according to our author, (page 13,) was then so called, " without any other addition of West Town or South Town unto it" Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 1 99 Fage 5. — Ancient Chronological Table. This table was, as Swinden remarks, written before the Reformation, and probably by the priests, who served the church. He gives some extracts from the Town Rolls, to prove that the ecclesiastics of that day were not so immaculate as by this record they wished posterity to believe. Page 5. — Camden's Britannia. — Edit. 1610. This edition was translated by Dr. Philemon HoUand, who, from his hterary labors, obtained the title of " Translator General of the age.'' It was of this edition that he boasted he had written a large folio volume with one single pen, — a feat he celebrated in the following stanza, "With one sole pen I wrote this book, " Made of a grey goose quill ; "A pen it was when I it took, — "And a pen I leave it still! " Descended from an ancient Lancashire family, he was bom at Chelmsford about the year 1550 ; educated at Cambridge, of which University he was admitted to the degree of M.A. in 1587, and of M. D. in 1590. At Cambridge, also, he resided and practised physic. He died ia 1636, and was interred in St. Michael's, Coventry. Page 6. — Speed's Chronicle. — Hdit. 1611. The Theatre of Great Britain was published in 1611, and was, as Gough styles it, " a noble apparatus " to his " Historie of Great Britaine," which also first appeared in that year. Speed was bom in 1555; and though originally brought up to the business of a tailor, he subsequently attained to some considerable note as a chronologist, histo- rian, and antiquary. He died in 1629. It excites curiosity to know where our author met with this book, which he said he rode fourteen miles to see. Page 7. — Castle built at Queenborough. In the Isle of Sheppey, King Edward III. rebuilt the Castle of Sheppey on a mag- nificent scale, from a plan of WUliam of Wykeham ; and upon taking his Queen, PhiUppa, to view it, he complimented her by changing the name of the town from Coningsburgh, (which it had acquired from having been the residence of the Anglo-Saxon kings,) to its present designation. Aa2 Digitized by Microsoft® 200 NOTES. Page 7. — East and West Flegg. These boundaries lie at the eastern extremity of the county of Norfolk ; the first extending twelve miles along the coast, from the mouth of the Yare to the bounds of Scratby with Hemsby ; and the latter thence to the bounds of Somerton with Horsey. They contain twenty-five towns, of which the names of fourteen end in hy, a Danish word signiiying a village or dwelling; and still maintain their former character for fertility : the land, in some of the parishes, being the most fertile in the county. These hundreds constitute the Deanery of Flegg, in the Archdeaconry of Norwich ; to which the Deanery of the town of Great Yarmouth was united in 1345. Before this period, the Wills of Yarmouth persons were proved before the Dean of Yarmouth, who was also styled the Dean of Yarmouth Church, and the Dean of S' Nicholas' Church. Page 8. — Short Grass. A more accurate description of the vegetation on the denes of Yarmouth, is given in a Sketch of the Natural History of Yarmouth and its Neighhourhood, by the late Mr. C. J. Paget and his brother, Mr. James Paget, now Surgeon to St. Bartholomew's Hospital. They say, — " In the sand of which the whole coast is more or less composed, vegetation is of " course but scanty ; on the beach and the hills of drifted sand which form the mar- " rams, but few plants indeed could be expected to flourish, owing to the great want of " water, which in the heaviest rains is almost immediately filtered through before it has " remained sufficient time to be absorbed by the roots. They consist almost entirely of " the marram and some grasses, which require but little moisture, and of others, whose " long roots penetrate to a sufiicient depth below the sand, to enable ±hem to reach any " which may exist. But, in few parts of the vegetable kingdom are more interesting " cases of the beautiful adaptation of the difi'erent parts of creation to be found, than " here. Were it not for the simple, uninteresting looking plant, the marram grass just " mentioned, it is probable, that aU the country along the coast must, long since, have " been inundated or buried ; its long creeping roots extending in many instances for " twelve or fourteen feet in length, at a distance of two or three inches below the sur- " face, and crossing and matting with each other in every direction, effectually bind down " the sand blown up from the beach ; while the short strong foliage prevent its being " blown over the land in the neighbourhood, which is thus maintained capable of high " cultivation. The roots indeed of all the species here will be found very fibrous and « creeping ; so that while this shape is the only one by which a sufficiency of spongioles " could be formed to imbibe any quantity of moisture, it serves in turn the above salu- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 201 " tary purpose : thus exhibiting natm'e as usual, producing a complicated variety of ends, " by single and simple means. It has been interesting to observe, as the Yarmouth north " pier has been built out, and the bank of sand has been formed to the north of it along " the beach, so as to oblige the sea to retreat for some yards distance, how these plants " have gradually crept down towards the water, fastening down the sand as it accumu- " lated. Higher up on the denes, where occasional inundations of the river have left " behind them particles of mud, and by the longer continuance of vegetable growth the " fibrous matter of roots have been deposited, so as ia some measure to enrich the soil, " the herbage is rather more abundant. It is extraordinary to observe how slight a " change of the component nature of the soil permits a total alteration of its productions. " Thus, the most fertile portion of the south denes, does not contain more than five per " cent, of vegetable matter, all the rest being fine silicious sand and small stones ; and " yet, here are produced no less than eight difierent species of trefoil, and a number of " grasses and other plants, difierent from those of the beach : among them is that very " local plant the Poa hulbosa, whose leaves constitute the greater part of the herbage, " but which is confined exclusively to the south denes." When the late lamented Col. Stoddart started on his journey to the East, which ended with his unhappy death at Bokhara, he took with him some of the marram grass, with the view of ascertaining whether it could be made efiectual for binding the sands of the desert. Page 8.— The Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk. There was but one Sheriff for these counties until 1576, when the office was divided, and Thomas Townshend, Esq., of Rainham, became Sheriff of Norfolk, and Robert Ashfield, Esq., of Stowlingtoft, became Sheriff of Suffolk. The word sheriff is derived from the Saxon gerefa, and means the reeve or governor of a shire. Hence the English word grabber. Before the invention of printing, charters and other public documents of impor1> ance, were publicly proclaimed by the Sheriffs (as will be seen in the account of the disputes with Lowestoft) ; and it was customary and proper to receive a charter publicly, and with an expression of joy and acquiescence, although this was not always the case. Page 9. — Extent and situation of Yarmouth The old Parliamentary Borough contained an area of 2,110 acres ; the modern Borough 3,940 acres. The town is 19 miles E. by S. of Norwich in a direct line, 24 Digitized by Microsoft® 202 NOTES. miles by the old Post Road, and 20 miles by Railway ; and 108 miles N.E. of London : the old Post Road, by Ipswich, being 126 miles. Latitude, 52° 36' 40" North, Longitude, 1° 44' 22", East. (WCulhch.) Sea Charts were first brought to England by Bartholomew Columbus in 1489. Mercator's Chart, in which the world was taken as a plane, was invented in 1556. Page 10. — Burgh Castle. The Romans entered this part of Britain A.D. 46, at which period the extensive tracts of marsh land which now form the Valleys of the Yare, Waveney, and Bure, as also the sand-bank on which Yarmouth now stands, were covered by the waters of the ocean, and acquired the name of Garienis Ostium. To curb the Iceni, who had risen against their conquerors, Publius Ostorius Scapula, the Roman general, after defeating their forces raised several camps ; two of which, placed on fine eminences, and within signal distance, commanded the approach from the sea; the one being at Burgh, and the other at Caister on the opposite side of the estuary. The camp at Burgh was strongly fortified, and was one of the most considerable in the kingdom. It was placed on the brow of a hill, near the present confluence of the Yare and Waveney, and formed an irregular parallelogram, comprising 5' 2"' 201". The walls, which stiU remain in a very perfect state, are constructed of flint rubble with layers of tiles. They are fourteen feet high and nine feet in thickness, and enclose it on the north, south, and east sides, whilst the western side is entirely open ; the sea, which then washed the „base of the hill, having probably been considered a sufiicient protection. Four roxmded towers, of solid masonry, flank the eastern side, and the north and south corners were similarly defended : the latter tower has fallen, but is stiU nearly entire, so solid and enduring is the masom-y. These towers were not built into the wall, and are merely joined by some masonry at the top. In the field to the east (supposed to have been the burial place) a vast number of coins of the lower em- pire have been, and still continue to be, found ; as also, fragments of urns, and of various articles of Roman workmanship. The site of the Castle with the Manor (sometime held by the Prior of Bromholm), was, with the " Manerium de Borowe Castell" sold by the crown, in 1560, to William Roberts, Esq., Steward of Yarmouth ; whose daughter married Simon Smyth, Esq., of Beccles, and Sir Owen Smyth was lord in 1630. In 1652 these possessions were in the hands of General Fleetwood, and Bridget his wife, daughter of General Ireton, and grand-daughter of Oliver Cromwell. By a recent purchase, the Roman Camp has Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 203 become the property of Sir John P. Boileau, Bart., of Ketteringham, and thus, in the eloquent language of Mr. Bancroft, the American Minister, in a speech delivered by him at the Town Hall, Great Yarmouth, in 1847, " the Castle which was raised by im- " perial power, and upon whose walls Rome planted her triumphant banner, as if to defy " the world she had conquered, now comes an humble suppliant to the bounty of an " English gentleman to be preserved from destruction." Sir John Boileau has caused some excavations to be made, under the direction of Hem-y Harrod, Esq., who has discovered the foundation of the entrance gate on the east side. The Manor of Burgh Castle is now vested in William Collett Reynolds, Esq. A detailed account of Burgh Castle will be found in King's Munimenta Antiqua. Ives, the Yarmouth antiquary, published Remarks upon Qarianonum ; a second edition of which work was published in 1803, by Dawson Turner, Esq., F.S.A. Page 10 — Wherein a Monastery was huilded. Sigebert, the first christian King of East Anglia, and the founder of the University of Cambridge and of the Abbey of Bederocksworth, now Bury St. Edmunds, is said, also, to have founded a Monastery at Burgh Castle (which then acquired the name of Cnobersburg) about the year 640, and to have become a monk there ; whilst others assert that, St. Fursey, an Irish saint of royal extraction, was the founder, assisted by the King. Some account of the miracles of St. Fursey, and of the way in which he obtained a bell for this monastery, is given by Southey in his Vindicics Ecclesim Ang- Ucanm : but he is wrong in stating, that " some ruins of the building are still shewn at " Burgh Castle," as none can be traced, and whether any ever existed is extremely doubt- fill ; the probability being, that the monks lived in wattled houses, within the walls of the Roman Camp. St. Fursey went to France soon after the death of Sigebert, and the monastery was afterwards favored by Bishop Felix ; but, is supposed to have been dissolved at a very early period, as the manor was held in soocage by Bishop Stigand, in the time of King Edward the Confessor, and was granted, with the site of the monastery, by King Henry III., to the Priory of Broomholm, a rich monastery, situate within the manor of Bacton, on the north-east coast of Norfolk, and almost upon the edge of the sea shore : where its remains continue to be a conspicuous sea mark to the present time. Page 11. — Caister Castle. Camden never imagined that the Castle, inhabited by Sir John Fastolfe, was a Roman structure, but that there had been a Roman camp on this side of the estuary Digitized by Microsoft® 204 NOTES. which was undouhtedly true. Tradition has placed the site in a field on the west side of the church. There are no remains of Roman work anywhere to be found, and there- fore, when we consider the imperishable nature of Roman masonry, we may conclude that this was only a summer camp, and never fortified like the one at Burgh. The coins found at Caister, are of an older date than those at Burgh ; and it is possible that the Romans may have formed their first camp at Caister, and afterwards made the one at Burgh their principal fortress. The Caister coins have been principally discovered in a place called " East-Bloody- Burgh-Furlong ;" and fragments of sepulchral urns, pottery, and glass, have been found in great profusion. A vault or building of Roman tiles, was also discovered some years since, and was described by the Rev. Thomas Clowes, in a communication to the Gentleman's Magazine, for 1837 ; and in a clay pit near the church, there was found, buried about two feet deep, a perfect urn, half filled with earth and bones, covered with a tile, which is now in the possession of the Rev. John Gunn, of Irstead, who has also a fragment of fine Samian ware, on which a hare hunt is represented. In 1809, as some labourers were digging a ditch, about two hundred yards to the west of the church, they discovered fourteen complete human skeletons, scarcely a foot below the surface. Caister Castle was bmlt about the year 1450, by Sir John Fastolfe, K.G., who had a licence from K.ing Henry V. for that purpose. It is one of the oldest briok buildings in the kingdom, and erected at a time when the strongly fortified and gloomy dwellings of our nobles, began to give place to more graceful and commodious habitations. The "great French personage" was the Duke d' Alenyon, upon the model of whose Castle at France, it is said to have been erected ; but it is certain, that of his ransom the Nor- folk knight never recei\i^d his full share. The Fastolfes were a numerous and powerful family, at a very early period of our local history. Alexander Fastolfe was Bailiff in 1280, and William Fastolfe was one of the Bxirgesses to Parliament in 1299 ; ^fter which period the name is of frequent occurrence, as filling the principal municipal offices, and as founders and benefactors to the several religious houses. They acquired considerable possessions both in Nor- folk and Suffolk ; and in Oulton church, near Lowestoft, may still be seen the brass of John Fastolfe, (who died in 1445,) and of Katharine his wife, whose maiden name was Bedingfield. " John Fastolfe, mariner," says Kippis, " a man of considerable " account in these and other parts," having piu:ehased the manor of Vaux and Bozoun in Caister, msirried the widow of Sir Richard Mortimer, of Attleburgh, in Norfolk, and dying early, was buried in a chapel in St. Nicholas' church, Qfreat Yarmouth, (where the remains of his tomb are still to be seen,) leaving a son, whose name has become inijnortalized by its introduction (although unjustly) by oiu' great Dramatist, in his play Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 205 of King Henry "VI. He was the ward of John, Duke of Bedford, and accompanied the Duke of Clarence, second son of King Henry IV., into Ireland, when he went thither as governor. Being now esteemed " a valiant knyght, and sharp in bateylle," he married Millicent, daughter of Sir Robert Tiptoft, and widow of Sir Stephen Scroope, of Castle Combe, by whom he obtamed large possessions in Wiltshire and Yorkshire, together with the wardship and marriage of his step-son, which, as the custom then was, he sold " to William Gascoyne, that tj-me Chief Justice of this lande, for v.c. marke," of which the youth greatly complained. He was one of the knights who attended King Henry V. in his first expedition into France, and bore a distinguished part in the campaigns of that monarch. He was at the taking of Haifleur, fought at Agincourt, was at the siege of Rouen, and at the capture of Caen, Valais, and Seey ; for which services he was appointed governor of Anjou and Maine. He was made a banneret on the field of Vememl, at which battle, he, with Lord WiUougby, took the Duke d'Alen9on prisoner. For the capture of the Castle of SiUie-le-GmUem he became a baron in France : and for a like success with Granville, he was elected a Knight of the Garter. He likewise distinguished himself at the Battle of Herrings, where, with a very inferior force, he cut off a strong detachment of the French army bearing supplies to the city of Orleans, then besieged by the English. At the fatal Battle of Patay the incident occurred which gave some foundation for the charge made by his rival. Lord Talbot, where he says, " Shame on the Duke of Burgundy and thee I " The troops which Fastolfe commanded on that day fled panic-stricken before the " Maid of Orleans,'' and Fastolfe was carried away with them, as also were the Lords Talbot and Scales. Although in temporary disgrace, his name was never removed from the list of Knights of the Garter : nor could King Henry VI. have said, " Henceforth we banish theCi on pain of death ! " for the next year he was made lieutenant of Caen, and afterwards attended the Duke of Bedford (of whose Will he became one of the executors,) into France ; was sent to the Council of Basle ; and employed in concluding a peace. For these services, Richard, Duke of York, who succeeded to the regency, bestowed on him a pension. Retiring from the service of the state to his " faire castiU of Caistre," he lived there in great state tiU his death, which happened in 1459, being then eighty years of age, and was buried within the precincts of the abbey church of St, Bennet at Holme. He gave, by his wiU, one hundred marks towards the repair and support of the haven of Great Yarmouth, and for the maintenance of the walls ; and a " sufficient sum " at the discretion of his executors, to all the religious orders in Yarmouth. He had a " splendid mansion " in Great Yarmouth, situate somewhere in the " Foreland ; " but there are no remaips of it : and the name of Fastolfe is now utterly extinct. Digitized by Microsoft® 206 NOTES. " To avouch him by many arguments valiant, is to maintain that the sun is bright," says Fuller, who complains of his name having been substituted for that of Sir John Oldcastle, as the prototype of the " fat old knight " of Shakspere's other dramas. " Nor " is our comedian," he adds, " excusable by some alteration of name, writing him Sir " John Falstaff, seeing the vicinity of sounds entrench on the memory of that worthy " knight, and few do heed the inconsiderable difference in spelling of their name." On the death of Fastolfe, the Castle was taken possession of by his kinsmen the Pastons ; but the Duke of Norfolk boldly assserted that " Sir John had given him " Caister, and that he would have it plainly." At the head of his armed retainers, this nobleman came to Yarmouth in 1469, whence, on the 26"" of September, he issued the following manifesto : — ■ " USS^etea.^, John Paston, Esq., and other diverse persons, have, against the peace, kept " the manor of Caister by force, against the wUl and intent of us, the Duke of Norfolk, " to our great displeasure. Which, notwithstanding (at the contemplation of the writing " of the most worshipful and Eeverend Father in God, the Cardinal of England, and " our most trusty and entirely beloved imcle, the Archbishop of Canterbury, the right " noble prince, my Lord of Clarence, and other lords of our blood, and also, at the great " labour and instance of our most dear and singular beloved wife,) we be agreed, that the " s'' John Paston and his s'^ fellowship, being in the said manor, shall depart and go out " of the s^ manor without delay, and make thereof deliverance to such persons as we " wUl assign ; the s'' fellowship having their lives and goods, horse and harness, and " other goods being in the keeping of the s'' John Paston, except guns, cross-bows, and " quarrels, and aU other hostlements to the said manor annexed and belonging ; and to " have fifteen days respite after their said departing out, to go into what place shall like " them, without any actions or quarrel to be taken or made by us, or in our name, to " them or any of them, within our franchise or without, during the said time." Young Paston, who had the keeping of the Castle, promised his brother, who was then at Calais, to " use the first point in hawking, and hold fast if he could ;" and he did defend it for more than twelve-months : at the end of which time, the Duke of Norfolk put himself at the head of 3,000 men, and laid siege to the Castle in earnest. The feeble garrison, after some defence, began to " fail in gunpowder and arrows," and " the place was sore broken with guns of the other party,'' so that they were constrained to surrender. The prize thus won, was retained by the Duke till his death, which happened suddenly, at his Castle of Framlingham, in 1475 : leaving an only daughter to inherit the vast possessions of the Mowbrays. Sir John Paston lost no time in regaining possession of Caister, and eventually obtained a confirmation of his title from the King : and the Castle contined to be the residence of the Pastons tiU 1599, when Sir William Paston removed to Oxnead Hall, which had been recently built by Clement Paston in the stj'le of that day, and which afterwards became the constant seat of the famUy. In 1659 Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 207 Caister Castle -vras sold by the Pastons to William Crow, a citizen of London, in liquida- tion of a debt : since wliich time it has fallen into decay. What now remains of this once extensive and magnificent building, consists principally of a lofty cylindrical tower (remarkable for the elegance of its proportions and the accuracy of its masonry,) and a western wall; both washed by the inner moat, which surrounded the smaller quad- rangle, where the state apartments were placed, and indications of which are still to be seen. Portions of the outer moat remain, bounding the eastern wall, which is pierced with loopholes, and terminates with small towers. There is a tradition that the vision of the " Headless Horses" has been seen at Caister Castle ; although not so well vouched for as a similar apparition supposed to be attach- ed to Blickling, which was the seat of Sir Thomas BolejTi, (the father of the unhappy mother of Queen Elizabeth,) and where the spectre of. that gentleman (or more pro- bably, as he carries his head under his arm, of his decapitated son Lord Rochford,) may be seen once every year driving a coach drawn by four headless horses, over a circuit of twelve bridges in that vicinity : and few rustics are hardy enough to be loitering at night near the places to be traversed in this apalling maimer. As Sir Jeffrey Boleyn, the founder of the Blickling family, purchased that manor of Sir John Fastolfe, and complained of his bargain, it may be that the restless spirit of his descendant occasion- ally extends his drive to. Caister. From William Crow the estate passed through the hands of several possessors, until it was purchased by Mr. Burton, of Yarmouth, whose descendants lately sold it to John Gumey, Esq., by whom, it is to be hoped, these most interesting ruins will be protected from further destruction. Page 13. — Oorleston. The name was anciently written Garleston, (as it is still pronounced by the vulgar,) and if the intermediate syllable be considered epenthetical, as suggested by Suckling, we have simply, " the town (or village) on the Gar," which was exactly descriptive of its position at the mouth of the Garienis. Gorleston is a place of considerable antiquity, having been inhabited long before Yarmouth was built. It is supposed to have once been the spot where the Druids celebrated their mystic rites ; a tradition which is confirmed by the fact, that many large stones, some of them fuU ten feet high, and standing in the form of a circle, remained in a field called the Stone-close, and in a neighbouring enclosure, till 1768 ; whilst numer- ous discoveries of urns, coins, and utensils, prove it to have been once occupied by the Romans. Bb2 Digitized by Microsoft® 208 NOTES. Earl Guert, son of Earl Goodwin, brother of Edith, Queen of Edward the Con- fessor, (and who, with his brother Harold, was slain at the battle of Hastings,) held five carucates of land here, as a manor : but at the time of the Domesday survey, this lordship was royal demesne. The manor remained in the crown till the reign of King Henry III., when it was held by Warin de Munchensy ; but in the reign of King Edward H., John de Baliol was lord, when it was apparently annexed to the half-hundred of Lothingland, as it passed therewith through the same possessors ; until it was sold, in 1844, by Lord Sydney Godolphin Osborne to S. Morton Peto, Esq., M.P. There is another manor in Gorleston, called Bacon's, which title it acquired from the ancient family of that name, who had considerable possessions here at an early period. In 1785 it was possessed by Robert Harvey, Esq., of Norwich, and it is now vested in the Trustees of the late Samuel Palmer, Esq., of Great Yarmouth. Page iS.— TVest Town. Probably, that part of the present hamlet of Southtown which was situate between the bounds of Gorleston and the then western bank of the Yare, and which part was the fu'st part built upon, but the precise limits cannot be now ascertained. Page 14. — South Town. This hamlet to the parish of Gorleston is situate on the west bank of the Yare ; by which river it is entirely bounded on the east, and by the parish of BradweU on the west, by Cobham Island and Breydon Water on the north, and by Gorleston on the south. That part which lies to the north of the high ground adjoining Gorleston, is entirely re- claimed from marsh and quagmire. The road which now runs through it from Yarmouth bridge, and which is, perhaps, one of the best in the kingdom, was first made a turnpike under an Act of Parliament in 1775. Southtown was one of the possessions of the Paston family, but after the death of the last Earl of Yarmouth, it was purchased by Lord Anson, the circumnavigator. In 1775, George Anson, Esq., of Shugborough, his nephew, heir, and devisee, (father of Thomas, first Viscount Anson) became possessed, and soon afterwards he began to grant building leases of the land lying between the Bridge and the ToU-Gate, where there is now an almost continuous line of houses. The first houses erected were the " Nine Houses," upon the site of a public tea-garden, kept by John Haggesty, and which comprised the precincts of St.' Mary's ultra pontem. With the exception of Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 209 «acli small portions as have of late years been sold away, Southtown is now vested in the Earl of Sefton and Lord Waterpark as ti-ustees for the Countess of Lichfield. In 1616, the BaUifis of Yarmouth sought to extend their jurisdiction into South- towii : their petition is ciirious, and sets forth the state of things at that time. It states that,— " garmoutj is a towne of greate trafiique, scituate directly over againste Holland " and Zealand, and separated from the county of Suff. by a small channell, called the " Haven ; over which, a Bridge beinge buylte, th'one end whereof standeth in Yer- " mouthe aforesaid, and th'other in Southtowne alias Gorleston, in Sufi'., out of the " libties of Yermouth and neere unto the entry of the Haven aforesaid, (which is a mile " and a halfe distante from the towne of Yermouthe aforesaid,) where two small tents " being at the first built, the same be very lately re-edified and greatly encreased, by reason " of the greate concourse of lewd disposed psons daily resorting thither, and dare not " come within the libties of Yermouthe ; some of them spending their tyme and substance " in drinking, to the utter undoing of them, their wives, and children ; and other some, " there secretly lurking, until they may get passage over seas : besides, butchers who " are not permitted to kill any fiesh in Yermouthe in the Lent season or dayes prohib- " ited, doe there in those tymes kill and sell fiesh openly, by reason that not any Justice " of the Peace is within four miles of that place resident ; by mean whereof, great dis- " orders be from tyme to tyme, as it were in the eyes of the magistrates of Yermouthe, " there committed, to the great dishonor of God, danger of the state, breache of the lawes, " and special contempt of the Bailiffs of Yermouthe ;" wherefore, they pray the Chan- cellor for an extension of their jiirisdiction to the extent of one mile from the Haven of Yarmouth. Lord EUesmere enquired into the matter, and found that the information was true, and that it was "not only convenient but also needful that the Bailiff's of Yer- " mouthe should have some power to suppress the disorders which daily happened at " the bridge-end, on the Suff'olk side, where the said two tenements were built, being " houses of disorder and ill resort ;" but, he could see no cause why the Bailiffs should have an extension of their powers into the country for one whole mile. The project of buUding houses in Southtown was first conceived by Sir William Paston, in 1656, who then proposed to incorporate a part of Southtown with Yarmouth • but this was opposed by the town : and in 1658 he proposed to grant building leases to the Corporation, which they refused. In 1664, Sir Robert Paston, his son and successor introduced a bill into Parliament for conferring upon Southtown the privileges enjoyed ,by Yarmouth. Sir Thomas Meadowe and Mr. John Woodroff'e, with the town clerk were sent to London to " agitate " on behalf of the town : but they were unsuccessfuL The bill was passed after "six hours' high debate;" the numbers on the division J)eing even, in a house of 161 members, and it was carried by the casting vote of the Digitized by Microsoft® 210 NOTES. Speaker. By this Act the corporation had three years given to them to agree with Sir Robert Paston as to the incorporation of Southtown; and, in 1666, they waited upon him at Oxnead, and in the following year terms were arranged. By the charter granted by King Charles II., Southtown was finally united to Yarmouth. Sir Robert Paston then printed and circulated proposals for building a new town, according to a plan which he had prepared, and which, certainly, had it been carried into effect, would have been far handsomer than the one afterwards adopted ; for he proposed that there should be a quay, fifty feet wide, the entire length of the Haven, on the Suffolk side. The proper time for such a project had not arrived, and more than one hundred years elapsed before any houses were buUt in Southtown. Although within the jurisdiction of Great Yarmouth, Southtown is parochially assessed with Gorleston. Cobham, which Kes at the northern extremity of Southtown and adjoins Breydon, is made an island by a smaU channel called Lady's Haven. By some, its name is de- rived from cob or coppe, a sea-fowl, and holm, a low ferniy ground : and probably, in the time of the Saxons, this islet was the resort of the numerous sea-fowl which then fre- quented these waters in great numbers, and which still linger about Breydon. Coh is also a Celtic word, meaning a mouth, a harbour, an entrance ; cop, of which coh may be a corruption, is also a Saxon word, meaning the head or top of a mound. Cobham Island was the property of the town, and was rented in 1481 by Robert Ashton, at four shillings per annum. In 1 578, Mr. Meke, and others, were directed by the corporation to view it, and report whether it shoidd be maintained or suffered to decay. In 1645, the Cobham marshes were leased to Mr. Bence, and in 1655 they were, with the salt-pans thereon, ordered to be sold : but, at that time they were only mort- gaged to Mr. Burton, and not sold till 1657, when Mr. Bence became the purchaser, for £530. Page 14:.— Mr. CMlde, Minister of the Word of God. John Childe was instituted to the vicarage of Gorleston in 1587, on the nomination of William Roberts, Esq., of Great Yarmouth, who was patron of the hving and impro- priator of the great tithes. From him those rights descended to Sir Owen Smith, Knt, and then passed successively to the Bedingfields and the Astleys. The Rev. Thomas Browne, D.D., sometime vice-chancellor of Cambridge, having married Lucy, daughter of the Rev. John Astley, (second son of Sir Edward Astley, Bart.) was presented to the vicarage in 1808, and held it (serving it for many years by a non-resident curate) tiU his death in 1832, when the Rev. William Gunn, rector of Smallburgh, was presented thereto by his widow, who then sold the advowson to the Rev. Francis Upjohn, who Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 211 presented himself in 1841. After the death of Dr. Browne, the great tithes were sold to various land-owners, and for ever disconnected from the living : and Gorleston presents another example of the pernicious consequences resulting from lay impro- priations; As this vicarage has no glebe lands, it is impossible to say where the " Parsonage of Gorkston,'' mentioned at pages 88 and 89, was situate. Certain it is that no par- sonage is now attached to the living, although the Rev. Dr. Browne erected a house for himself, within the precincts of the Augustine Priory ; which is now the residence of John Brown, Esq. Page 17. — Rulers of the Coast. The whole force under the command of the Comes Littoris Saxoniei, or " Count of the Saxon shore," consisted of 2,200 foot and 200 horse. He had under him nine subord- inate officers called Prcepositi, one of whom, with the Stablesian horse, was stationed at Garianonum ; and another, with the Dalmatian horse, at Branodunum, now Brancaster. The former encampment was, according to King, capable of containing a cohort and a half of Roman soldiers ; which, with the horse and allies, amounted to 1,500 men. Page 18. — The Venetians. The republic of Venice took its rise from a small colony, who, driven out of Mantua, Verona, and other places, by Atilla, King of the Huns, took refuge in the group of islands where still stands this " glorious city in the sea." In 839 the Venetians, who had then by their intrepidity and success attained great power, sent a fleet of sixty gaUeys to assist the Greek Emperor, Michael, against the Saracens. In an engagement which took place they were entirely defeated, and almost all their galleys taken and destroyed. This " untoward event " threw the republic into great disorder, and the Doge was mur- dered. Good order was, however, estabHshed by the succeeding Doge; and at the commencement of the tenth century the reputation of the republic for military prowess was re-established by a victory over the Huns. There was, at a very early period, a considerable trade between this country and Venice : and so careful were our ancestors to procure good bows and bowstaves, that by the 12"> Edward IV. it was enacted that every merchant stranger who should bring into this land any merchandize in a " carrack," or ship of Venice, should also bring for every tun of such merchandize, four bow-staves, to be searched for by the mayor of the town where such carrack should come ; and by the 1=' Richard III., it was further enacted that eveiy " Merchant of Venice " should bring with every butt of Malmsey and with every Digitized by Microsoft® 212 NOTES. butt of Tyre, ten bow-staves, -which should not be sold " ungarbelled," and only to per- sons born under the King's obeisance. The situation of the town of Yarmouth has not imfrequently been compared (but not for the reasons stated by our author at page 25) to that of Venice ; to which city it is supposed to bear some resemblance when approached by railway. Page 19. — Landing of Cerdic. " This year (495) two ealdormen came to Britain, Cerdic and Cynric his son, with " five ships, at the place which is called Cerdic's-ore, and the same day fought against " the Welsh." Thus saith the venerable Bede : and it is probable that our old chroni- clers, by confounding the name of Gememuth with that of Cememuth (now Char- mouth, in Dorsetshire), gave currency to the story that this Saxon leader, and founder of the kingdom of Wessex, landed where Yarmouth now stands ; for all the circum- stances disclosed by an attentive enquiry into the true history of this occurrence, combine to prove that it took place near the site of the present Charmouth ; and this inference coincides with the more probable supposition that this portion of the Norfolk coast was not then in existence. Page 21. — Pev. Sir Edward Cooke. Sir Edward Coke (or Cooke, for the orthography was uncertain,) was the son of Robert Coke, of Mileham, in Norfolk, and at ten years of age was sent to the Grammar School at Norwich; whence he was removed to Trinity CoUegej Cambridge. He mar- ried Bridget, th e daughter and co-heiress of John Paston, Esq., third son of Sir WiUiam Paston. He became Recorder of Norwich and Member of Parliament for the county of Norfolk : and those were the stepping stones to his greater honours. The present Earl of Leicester is eighth in descent from the Lord Chief Justice. Our author afibrds an instance of the title " Reverend " having been formerly given to the Judges. By some, this title is supposed to have been retained by them from the time when ecclesiastics filled the judicial offices; whilst others consider that it was merely a title of respect applied to all persons, to whom, on account of their position in society, great deference was due. Page 1\.—The Mutch. An ancient iron chest in which the Corporation of Yarmouth kept their charters and valuable documents. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® ■i Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 213 The word is derived from the Saxon htccecca, and the French huehe, a chest or cofFer : " they rifled his hutches," says James Gresham in a letter to John Paston, ■written in 1455. In 1631 it was ordered that one key of the Hutch should be kept by the church- wardens, another by the chamberlains, and a third by the treasurer of the plate money ; and that the town-clerk should have the custody of the key of the Guild Hall where the hutch was placed. Notwithstanding these precautions, it is to be feared that many of the documents once in the Hutch have disappeared. Two keys only are now used : they are shewn in the annexed plate, with four other keys, still preserved in the Hutch, which is now placed in the Toll-house HaU. In the Hutch the charters are still deposited. In it, also, are preserved some of the Tallies or cleft-sticks, upon which accounts were formerly kept, the sticks being notched a.ccording to the sum of money advanced ; one part being given to the creditor, and the other remaining with the debtor. Another ancient iron chest, the interior of the lid curiously wrought, is still pre- served at the Port Dues Office. It is placed on a stand of carved oak, having the arms of Yarmouth in front, and the following inscription on labels : — «G. Wakd. J. AETIS. Bailifes. S. Colby. I. Ireland. Chamb.'"^ 1701." Page 22. — Ancient Parchment Book. Our author is supposed to refer to a work entitled " ©reate ^erinout^e t a 'Baoke " of t^e jFouitnscton ana atttiqttttpe of t^e siaine ®oS»ne, atrt of I3ttiersie ©pecialle " matters concetninge tTjt same." This quaint and curious compilation was made in the reign of Queen EHzabeth (probably about the year 1560), and a copy, in the calig- raphy of the period, remains to this day in excellent preservation. Blomefield, who frequently quotes it, and who calls it "a fair noble folio," obtained it from the muniment room of the Earl of Yarmouth, at Oxnead, in 1745, as appears by a letter written by him to Major Welden, and published by S. Wilton Eix, Esq., of Beccles, (with some Cursory Notices of the Norfolk Topographer,) in the Norfolk Archce- ohgy, Vol. H., page 211. Blomefield inserted his book-plate, which bears the date of 1736, in the M.S. and wrote on a fly-leaf, " One Manship wrote a History of Yarmouth, but I think not this;" afterwards adding, "Yes, Henry Manship y' father wrote it, and M"' Joseph Cotman hath a copy of Manship the son's History." He also wrote on another leaf, " An Index to M' Hen. Manshipp's Collections for y= Borough of Yar- mouth," prefixed an Index, and added many notes in his own handwriting. The book is also endorsed " Manship's History of Yarmouth, M.S.," and on the parchment Co Digitized by Microsoft® 214 NOTES. cover, " Manship's Account of Yarmouth." After Blomefield's death, in 1751, this M.S. passed into the possession of Thomas Martin, of Palgrave, the Historian of Thetford, (familiary known as " honest Tom Martin,") who has written his name on the parch- ment cover. Upon his death in 1771, John Ives, the Yarmouth Antiquary, ohtained possession of it, and wrote his name under that of Martin, and again upon the inside of the cover with the date 1772, with the following note in the elegant penmanship of which he was master, " This being Manship the elder's History, is a rare and valuable manuscript ; " and under Blomefield's note above mentioned, " It is probable that Hemy Manship the younger took his History of Yarmouth from his father's copy, adding many particulars :" and yet, the cursory manner in which the son speaks of the work, excites a doubt whether succeeding antiquaries may not have been mistaken in attributing it to the father. This M.S. is now in the possession of the Editor, who, in 1847, printed and pub- lished a limited number of copies, with notes and an appendix. Fage 22. — The Originality or Antiquity of Yarmouth. " ®5e verye seate of that towne, that ys to saye, the place and grounde whereuppon " the towne is buylded, and nowe dothe stand, was percell of a greate sand lyinge within " the mayne sea, at the mouthe of the fludd or ryver called Hierus, beinge contynuallye " under water and overflownen with the sea." Thus saith the " ancient parchment hook,'' and truly enough : but, when it is added, that " the tyme that yt was a sand in the sea " was when Kynge CanuUia reigned in Englande, whiohe was aboute the yere of our Savior " Jesus Christe, his Incarnation, One Thousande," there is some reason to doubt whether a mistake may not have been made in the computation. Sir Henry Spelman, in his Jcenia, revives the mournful tale of Lothbroc, as a proof that when that event is sup- posed to have happened (A.D. 870), the sands at Yarmouth were still submerged. This royal Dane being alone in a boat, hawking on the coast of Denmark, was driven by a sudden tempest across the sea, and carried up the mouth of the Yare to Reedham, where he landed. Having been conducted to the court of Edmund, King of East Anglia, he was well received, and became so charmed with the diversion of hunting, that he soon ex- celled his instructor, Berne, the King's huntsman ; who, fired with envy, secretly mur- dered him in the woods. A faithful greyhound revealed the body to the King's servants, and Berne having been found guilty, was put into Lothbroc's boat, which was committed to the mercy of the waves. By a marvellous chance, it was carried back to Denmark, where it was recognised : and Berne, having been put to the rack, falsely asserted that Lothbroc had been killed by King Edmund, Hinguar and Hubba, the sons of Loth- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 215 broc, immediately assembled a large army and made a descent upon East Anglia, taking Berne as their guide ; and having defeated the English neai- Thetford, and taken prisoner the King (who refused to treat with " pagans "), they cruelly murdered him. The body of this " Royal Saint," as he was afterwards designated, was found guarded by a wolf, in a wood at Heilsdone, and interred at a place near thereunto, " now," (says Eoger of Wendover,) " called Hoxen by the natives : and on that spot a small church of mean ." workmanship was erected by the faithful ; where the holy body rested during the " lapse of many years." Having acquired a reputation for incorruptibility, it was re- moved to Beodrichesworth, afterwards called S' Edmund's-bury, where it was again interred : and where a magnificent Abbey, (some ruins of which remain to this day,) was erected over its tomb by Canute. In this new resting-place " the dead body of the living saint wrought unheard-of miracles : '' and if we may believe the Chronicle of Jocelin of Brakeland, when the tomb was opened in 1198, the uneorrupted body of the holy martyr was seen and touched by Abbot Sampson and many of the brethren, — and indeed it would seem dangerous to have the temerity to dispute it, for William of Malmesbury records the instance of Leofstan, " a youth of bold and untamed insolence ; " who with many impertinent threats, commanded the body of the martyr to be shewn " to him : for he was desirous, as he said, of settling the uncertainty of report ly the testi- " mony of his own eye-sight," and who " paid dearly for his audacious experiment, for " he became insane, and shortly after died of a loathsome disease. Thereby proving," (adds the credulous historian,) " that Edmund was now capable of doing what before he used to do ; thatis, — " ' To save the suppliant but confound the proud ! ' " Nashe, in his Lenten Stuff, written in 1598, says, " may it please the whole generation " of my auditors to be advertized, how that noble earth, where the town of Great Yar- " mouth is now mounted, and where so much fish is sold, in the days of yore hath been " the place where you might have catched fish, and as plain a sea, within these six hund- " red years, as any boat could tumble in : and so was the whole level of the marshes " between it and Normch. Anno Domini 1000, or thereabouts (as I have scraped out « of worm-eaten parchment), and in the reign of Canutus, (he that died drunk at Lambeth, " or Lome-hith,) somewhat before or somewhat after, not an apprenticeship of years " varying, " Cuput exiulit undia, *' The sands set up shop for themselves ; " and from that moment to this sextine century (or, let me not be taken with a lye, five " hundred ninety-eight, that wants but a paire of years to make me a true man,) they « would no more live under the yoke of the sea, or have their heads washed with his « bubbly spurn, or barber's balderdash, but clearly quitted, disterminated, and rulegated "themselves from his inflated capriciousness of playing the dictator over them. cc 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 216 NOTES. " The northern -wind was the clanging trumpeter who, with the terrible blast of his " throat, in one yellow heap, plump clustered or conjested them together ; even as the " western gales in Holland, right over against them, have wrought imruly havook, and " thrashed and swept the sands so before them, that they have choaked or clammed up " the middle walk or door of the Rhine, and made it as stable clod-mould or turf-ground, " as any hedger can drive a stake into.'' Mr. Ives first brought into notice a rude map of the Garienis Ostium, as it was supposed to exist in the time of the Romans ; which map still remains in the hutch, and is said to have been copied from a still more ancient one, which was in a perishing condition in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Mr. Hudson Gumey has caused this map to be again engraved, after a more accurate copy made by the late Mr. Woodward ; with another map distinguishing more completely the highlands from the lowlands j and a third map, entitled Roman Norfolk, showing the position of the principal Roman stations. At whatever period the sand upon which Yarmouth is built, " did growe to be drye, and was not overflewen by the sea,'' certain it is, that at the commencement of the eleventh century, Sweyn, with his fleet, sailed up to Norwich, which he plundered and burnt : and had Yarmouth been at that time in existence, it would not have escaped his rapacity. By what means these mighty floods were expelled or withdrawn from their ancient beds, is a question which has excited much interest and discussion. Mr. Robberds, who, in his Geological and Historical Observations on the Eastern Vallies of Norfolk, has fully proved the great changes which have taken place, has contended that they have resulted from a gradual depression ia the level of the German ocean itself: whilst other writers assert that the accumulation of sand, by which the entrance to this estuary has been blocked up and the rivers restrained to their present channels, has been caused by the ciment of the ocean, which, flowing north-east and south-west, has, through a series of ages, worn away the friable cMfis of the Norfolk and Sufiblk coasts, ingulphing forests, villages, (as Newton,) and even towns, (as Dunwioh) ; and depositing the debris of chalk and sand wherever an opening or eddy ofiered. And as Holland may be considered to be, in great part, the delta of the Rhine, so in " this case, the mouth of the estuary of the Yare presents a still more modem seizure of the stranded spoUs of the waters." Page 22. — Den and Strond. These privileges were granted to the Cinque Ports by a charter of King Edward I., and enabled the fishermen to dry their nets on the den, denes, or downs of Yarmouth, and to make fast their vessels to the shore. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 217 Page 22. — Antient Table. This table, wHch was hanging, until within a few years, immediately upon the left hand as you entered the ToU-house Hall chamber, was copied by Leland into his Col- lectanea de Antiquitate etfandatione Burgi Magnm JernemuthcB, vol. I., page 285. It was written in black letter, with rubricated initials, and was painted on folding boards ; one of which having fallen down in 1807, was unfortunately burnt. What became of the remainder is not known. Page 25. — Darreign. Darreign or darrain, (from the Norman dareigner,) to range troops for battle. Yarmouth denes is an admirable exercising ground for troops ; but 20,000 men is the more probable mmiber that could be " darreigned " on the south denes. *' Come, Warwick, backing of tlie Duke of York, " Darrain your battle, for they are at hand ! " Shaksfebe. Page 30. — Monastery of Glastonbury. The first christian church in Britain, was erected here, A.D. 60, and is said to have been the residence of Joseph of Arimathea. Richard Whiting, the last abbot, (who had 100 monks and 400 domestics,) was hanged in his pontificals, for refusing to take the oath of supremacy to King Henry VIII. Page 33. — Soger, the Prior of Haddiscoe. Roger de Haddiscoe was Prior of St. Olaves, which was a priory founded by Roger Fitz-Osbert, then the possessor of Somerleyton, about the beginning of the reign of King Henry HI., at Herringfleet or Herlyngeflete. It was built upon a holm or rising knoU of land, surrounded by bog and marsh, near an ancient Ferry across the river Waveney : and was filled with Augustine or Black Canons. Besides lands in Tibenham granted by the founder, and the advowson of Witlingham acquired from his son, this house had, so early as 1291, obtained the appropriations of the churches of Herringfleet, Burgh Castle, and Hales, with lands in twenty-seven parishes in Norfolk and Suffolk : and these possessions were stiU further increased prior to the dissolution, when the site was given by Heniy VIII. to Henry Jemingham, of Somerleyton, and Frances his •wife. This grant conveyed both the great and smaU tithes, no stipend whatever being Digitized by Microsoft® 218 NOTES. reserved for the maintenance of divine worship at the parish church. It was one of those scandalous acts of appropriation, by which true religion has suffered so much : and the parish has ever since remained without a parsonage or glebe land. The remains of the priory were taken down in 1784, leaving only a few walls and detached portions remaining. The principal of these are, a large room (now used as a barn) said to have been the refectory, and which, until within a few years, retained a handsome roof of open timber-work carved with bosses and pendants ; and a double crypt, or vault, (now half filled with earth, and converted into dwellings,) which is sup- posed to have formed an undercroft to the chapel of St. Mary, which was attached to the conventual chmxh. The Fitz-Osberts, the Jeminghams, and many persons of distinction, were buried in this church. The site is now the property of Henry Leathes, Esq., of Herringfleet Hall ; who is, also, the owner of a curious old mansion in the same village, of the time of Queen Eliza- beth, called Blocker Hall, formerly the property of the family of Grise, or Le Grys, of Browston. In 1295 a writ ad quod damnum was sent to William de Kerdiston, sheriff of Nor- folk and Suffolk, to enquire what detriment it would be to any person if the King were to grant leave to Jeffery PoUerin, of Yarmouth, to buHd a bridge over the Waveney, at St. Olave's priory : to which the return of the jury was, that such bridge would be to the detriment of Roger de Ludham and the Prior of Toft, (who held the ferriage,) but it would be to the great benefit of the country. A patent for building a bridge here was obtained in 1420, but it does not appear that anything further was done until the reign of King Henry VII., when the causeway over Haddiscoe dam and St. Olave's bridge were both constructed, at the expense of Dame Margaret, the wife of Sir James Hobart : and this bridge, although frequently repaired, remained substantially the same until it was replaced by the present tubular suspension bridge ; to the erection of which the Haven Commissioners for Yarmouth greatly contributed. Page S3.— A fair Pair of Organs. This was the usual mode of designating this instrument at that period. It appears by the churchwardens' books, that there had been several organs in this church, for they speak of " Our Lady's Organ," (1465) ; " The Old Organs," and "The New Organs," (1485) ; " The Great Old Organs," (1486) ; "Jesus' Organ," (1650). A fine old organ remained in the church till 1650, when it was removed by the Puritans, who had a special dislike to church music : and no organ case can be found in this country older than the time of King Charles II. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 219 Before the Reformation, organs were usually placed on one side of the choir. They ■were, however, very different from the large structures now in use, being very much smaller, and frequently consisting of two rows of pipes, standing on the ground, with a pair of bellows at the back, which were worked by an attendant. In the corporation books there is an order, made in 15S8, to pay "Andrew, the organ-maker, two shillings " and six pence, that was due to him for six years ; and that the same be paid yearly by " the churchwardens.'' The present organ was built in 1733, by Abraham Jordan, with whom a con- tract was entered into by a Committee of subscribers, Richard Ferrier, Esq., being chairman. It was long the boast of the town, that this organ was not inferior in tone to the celebrated one at Haarlem ; and it may still be said, in that respect, to be equal to any organ in the kingdom. Dr. Macro (then minister of the parish) preached fi'om Ephes. v., 19., the opening sermon, which was published. This organ wasrepaired in 1812, by George England, Jordan's grandson. In 1840, through the exertions of H. v. "Worship, W. Yetts, S. C. Marsh, and Edward Steele, Esq", with other gentlemen, a subscription was entered into for repairing it, and a Committee formed, William Worship, Esq., acting as honorary secretary. The works were completed in 1844, by Gray and Davidson, at a cost of £350, and the organ was re-opened in 1844, (S. C. Marsh, Esq., mayor,) when the Rev. Henry Mackenzie (then minister of the parish) preached a sermon from Psalm c, 1, 2. This organ, as originally arranged, contained 1,816 pipes ; after England's repair, 2,053; and now 2,133. The organ in Saint George's chapel, was also built by Jordan, about the same time, and opened in Februay, 1734. It was repaired in 1827 by Gray ; and, at the instance of the Rev. Mark Waters, in 1844, by Cotton, superintended by Edward Steele, Esq. : and pedal pipes were added in 1850, also by Cotton. The cost of these organs was respectively £900 and £600. Page 34. — In the Chancel, to the southward, were placed the Bailiffs. The privilege of sitting in the chancel, was, probably, at this time, conceded to none but the corporation. It must be remembered, that at this period the chancel was open to the body of the church, or, if divided at all, it was only by a screen of open work : and that, prior to the Reformation, the whole of the church service was perfoi-med in the chancel ; the people remaining in the nave, and never being admitted into the chancel, except at the administration of the sacrament. It was usual, however, for the priest, after the service in the chancel, to go into the nave and instruct the people by a sermon Digitized by Microsoft® 220 NOTES. Page 34. — Places for the Corporation, The corporation appear to have taken infinite pains not only to seat themselves comfortably at church, but also to make due provision for their wives : for when the alteration mentioned by our author, was made, they also ordered a seat to be made to allow the aldermen's wives to sit with the baiKffs' wives, in their " chapel," as their pew was called ; again in 1590, that no man should sit there, and only " married wives and maids." ^a^r/^V In 1599, a complaint was made to the Bishop of Norwich, that the " t each er's wife " had been placed in the aldermen's wives' chapel, contrary to the good wiU of the town and churchwardens. In 1612, Mr. Greenwood, the collector of customs, had leave given him to sit with the aldermen and next to the justices. The high constables and chamberlains had also seats assigned to them. Each member of the corporation was accustomed to pay an annual sum for his seat at church ; and in 1689, it was ordered that they who should refuse, were to be sued in the Spiritual Court : also in 1695, that all persons using the corporation seats, the constables' seats, or the great seat called the gentlemen's seat, were to pay for the same. In 1706, upon complaint made of the " disorder which happened in the common " oounoilmen's wives' seat, by occasion of sorts of persons coming in, which much op- " pressed and rendered them uneasy," orders were made for their regulation ; and widows, and persons of the best rank, were to be placed in the first seat next to the constables' seat. The aldermen's gallery (which was placed against the wall of the south aisle, partly obscuring the windows,) was removed in 1847 : and the mayor's seat (a specimen of the perverted taste of the eighteenth century), which was at the east end of it, next where the pulpit then stood, was transferred to the Comt Room of the Toll-house Hall,wher e it may still be seen. Page 35. — Bachelor's Aisle. At the time this work was begun, " which, " says Nashe, " like the imperfect work " of King's College, in Cambridge, or Christ's Church, in Oxford, had too costly founda- " tions to be ever finished," the chapels in the church were so numerous, and the popu- lation so great, that additional accommodation was required. The new building was intended to have been separate from the west end of the present church, as the foundations, which can stiU be traced, testify : and the dimensions stated in the text agree with those mentioned by William of Worcester, who was private secretary to Sir John Fastolfe, K.G., and resided with him at Caister Castle, and who wrote down many Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 221 particulars respecting this church. In 1650, some of the great stones taken down from this unfinished building, were ordered to be carried to the Haven's mouth and used at the piers : but a considerable portion of the work remaiaed standing until the early part of the eighteenth century, when the materials were used in constructing St. George's Chapel. Page 35. — Visited hy the Plague. This fearful pestilenoe, which had ravaged aU Europe, destroying alike Christians, Jews, and Saracens, and killiiig both " the confessor and the confessed," appeared at Norwich on the first of January, 1348, where it continued for the space of a year; dur- ing which time, upwards of 50,000 persons are said to have died there. Its ravages here were also very great ; for, as the " TBoofee of t\t JFtiitnllsctiin " says, " there dyed within the town of Create Yarmouth, the ntunber of seven thousand per- sons and more," including Simon de HaUe, one of the BaLUfis : and the town did not recover its prosperity for many years. There is a tradition, that the north gate (which was flanked on either side by square towers of curious workmanship,) was erected by those who had acquired large sums of money, from the revolting but necessary office of burying the dead, during the time of this pestilence. The plague again broke out in 1534, and returned in 1558, when the mortality was very great ; proving fatal to Thomas Nicholson, one of the Bailiffs. On which latter occasion it was agreed, " that as at this present time God hath visited Mr. BaUifis with sickness, they shall keep the Queen's Court within their houses, every week." It also reappeared in 1578 ; and all trafiic with Norwich, where it also raged, was prohibited. A letter was this year received from the mayor of Newcastle, requesting that no ships might be sent thither for coals. Two thousand persons are computed to have died in the town of the plague, between May and Michaehnas ; and a burial ground was made for them under the town wall, near the Pudding gate. On the thirtieth of September, 1579, a Thanksgiving was ofi'ered up, "on the town's being freed from the plague." In 1584 there appears to have been some dread of its return, for a committee was appointed to cleanse the streets and appoint scavengers ; and women were employed to view all dead bodies, and to certify whether any had died of the plague. Again, in 1590, the same alarm was felt, and women were appointed to visit the houses where any sickness or death should happen, and report whether it were the plague : and if it should prove to be so, such houses were to be watched, and no one admitted in or out, unless every person going in should remain there a month : and such houses were to be supplied with all necessary things by a general collection, where Dd Digitized by Microsoft® 222 NOTES. the parties could not do so at their own charge : and every Saturday night lists were made of all who had died in the previous week, and of all infected houses. And " for avoiding God's judgment upon drunkenness, then common in the town," it was ordered that no person should resort to an alehouse, except with a stranger and for especial business ; and, that all bedding and clothes coming out of infected houses, should be carried near the North MiU, or the old South Haven, to be aired, on pain of being burnt. Upon another alarm, in 1597, the aldermen, constables, and vintners, were ordered "to visit aU such houses and people as had the plague ; and to take order that the doors should be speared in, and the people also." And fires were ordered to be made through- out the town, every Tuesday and Saturday night. In 1602 the town was again visited by the plague ; and upon St. John's day in that year, the assembly of the corporation was held at the Toll-house Hall, instead of the Guild Hall, " by reason of the plague :" wools and woollen cloths were prohibited being brought from London; orders were given for cleansing the town; collections were made weekly at the church door ; and an assessment levied on the inhabitants for the maintenance of poor infected persons, shut up in their houses. In 1625 orders, sent down by the Privy Council, were printed and circulated, to be observed with respect to infected persons and houses. An attorney of the Burgh Court was dismissed from his office, for attempting to make money, by giving false bills of health to vessels sailing " to the Streights ; " sealing them with an old seal, without the knowledge of the Bailifis. The plague having appeared in other parts of the king- dom in 1629, the inhabitants were assessed to cleanse the town : and in 1631, the plague having reached Norwich, and as " much fruit came from thence, and was kept by petti- foggers and others, and sold in small shops," it was ordered that none be sold except in open market. And, upon the appearance of the plague in the town soon afterwards, all infected persons were confined to their houses ; and " cotes " upon the denes were fitted up as pest houses : and in 1636, when this pestilence raged " in parts beyond the seas," and in London and Newcastle, some of the gates were closed, and all the others strictly watched ; and no one was to go on board any vessel from Holland or London, in the haven. A " certificate " was sent by the baUiffs to the Earl of Arundel and Surrey, then lord lieutenant of Norfolk, stating that " it had pleased Almighty God to again visit this town with the plague, which was disposed in some few places thereof; " and that " the drawing together of people might be a means to encrease it ;" and craving permission that " the present practice of arms " by the artillery company, might be for- borne for a time. The following letters, exchanged by the corporations of Norwich and Yarmouth, show the dread which former visitations of this fearful pestilence had inspired, and are specimens of the style in which such communications were then made. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 223 " Our love remembered. " The tjTnes doe give us occasion to desyre your best ayde and assistance, that by " the help and goodness of Almighty God, theise two corporations of Norwich and " Yarmouth, being yet free from the contagion of the plague, may, by God's blessing, " be stUl so continued. And therefore we desire, if it may stand with your liking, that " all wherrymen that take in any goods or passengers in your towne for Norwich, may ~ " be compelled to take in at one and the self same place, and not elsewhere. And that " none of them be permitted to take in any passengers that come from beyond the seas, " from London, Newcastle, or other places infected, or feared to be infected, without a " certificate from y' worPi". And that you would please to cause some officer to make " known to all wherrymen that shall come from your town to this citty, that they land " noe goods or passengers att any other place in this citty, than at the common stath of " this citty, to the end that they may be there examined, and such inquiries made con- " cerning them as shall be thought fitt; because we are now giving order to o' wherry- " men here, that they doe observe the same order in this place. And in this doing, we " shall accompt ourselves much obliged unto you, and will be ready to accommodate " you in like pformance, when you shall have cause to require the same, and wUl rest^ " Your very loveing friends, " Norwich, the first Thomas Bakee, Maior. " of Sept', 1636." Tho= Cory [cMOT muUis aliis.'] To ■which the following answer was sent, — " Right Worp", _ " Our kind respects remembred. Yo' Ire of the first of this instant, we have rec*. " And accordingly have ourselves, in pson, strioUy chardged our wherrymen in gen'rall " that they neither take into, nor deliver out of, their wherrys any manner of goods or " passengers, but at one certain knowne place in this towne, namely, the usual wherry " key ; and not any unknowne or suspected passengers, w"'out o' privity. And that " they observe the like (according to the contents of y' Ire) for your citty, namely at the " common stath. We heartily thank you for y' good care taken herin, and recommended " unto us : wherein we have hitherto been careful, and intend (God wUling) for the " future not to be wanting in conjoyning o' best help and endeavour for preventing " thereof. Neither doe we knowe att present, thanks be given to the Lord, any in this " towne infected, saving that this last week one only pson died, who was suspected " thereof, and as yet none els of the famUy sick. W*'' o' praiers to the Almighty God, " that he will be pleased to stay his hand where it is, and grant a gen'rall pservation to " the whole kingdome, if it be his blessed wUl, we rest, " Y' very loving friends, " Yarmouth, Saturday, Tho. Johnson 1 Bgjjjjg- "3 September, 1636. KOB* Satee j " To o' very loving friends, the "right worp" the Maior of the " citty of Norwich, and the Alder- " men his brethren." D d 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 224 NOTES. By these letters vre find that it was then the practice for the whemes, plying be- tween Yarmouth and Norwich, to carry passengers. Again, in 1643, there was an alarm of plague, and some cotes on the denes were cleared and fitted up for the reception of infected persons : and in 1655, aU ships from Holland were to lie on the west side of the haven, and not to be boarded for three days after their arrival. In 1664, a rate was made for the relief of poor persons infected with the plague : and in the following year, the care of the sick was entrusted to " Dominicus John de Eodemonde," a physician who had made proposals to undertake the charge. Mr. Bacon was appointed " apothecary unto the infected persons," and he was ordered to furnish Dr. Dominicus with all such physic and medicines as he should send to him for. And as the want of money to relieve the infected persons was then very great, and Dominicus had used as much of his own "physic and medicines as came to £10, and being very much in need of the money, the corporation resolved to " take up " £100 on the town's account, to be employed towards the relief of infected persons ; which sum, Mr. Richard Betts, the receiver of the assessment, was to repay : and it was further agreed, " to aUow imto the woman which attendeth upon Dominicus and his mate, the sum of five shiUings weekly for her wages." Notwithstanding these provisions, which appear absurdly insufficient, two thousand five hundred persons died of the plague in Yarmouth on this occasion, including John Cubitt, one of the bailiffs, and both the ministers of Yarmouth church. In more modem times the approach of the cholera morbus again set the inhabitants upon cleansing the town : but public opinion has, of late years, been so much directed to the preservation of the public health, that no such visitations, it is to be hoped, wUl in future be needed to remind them of their duty in this respect. Page 36, — William Harhome and Ralph Thompson, Bailiffs, It was the practice of our old chroniclers to give the names of the bailiffs, with the date of the year, in the same way as the Roman authors were accustomed to mention the names of the consuls. Page 37. — Jeffrey Pougett (or Ponyett), Mr. Bailiff Bartlemewe dying in 1596, during his year of office, Jeffrey Pougett was again elected Baihff, by the same inquest that had chosen the Bailiffs on the previous St. John's day : which seems to have been the custom. He was one of the aldermen named in King James' charter in 1608. The name is now extinct. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 225 37. — John Coldham. He was the son of Allen Coldham, who was Bailiff in 1559, and died in 1582, and lies buried in Lowestoft church : where his epitaph says, — " ©f age Tje toss tfire silfeate sttn tene t " ^e lybea toetl in tlie ^tgtit of »n men." John Coldham became four times Bailiff, and died in 1620, aged 84, leaving no issue, and was buried in Yarmouth church. Page 39. — Nicholas Fenn. This name is among the earliest in the municipal records of the town. Peter-at-Fen was Bailiff in 1360 ; John-ate- Fen in 1368. Hugh-atte-Fen was Burgess in Parliament for Great Yarmouth in 1396, with Rich- ard Okay : and again in 1400, with John Beketon. Thomas Fenn was Burgess in 1432, with John Pyn. Hugh Fenne in 1450, with Edward Wydewell. Nicholas Fenn in 1555, with Cornelius Bright. Hugh Fenne, of Yorkshire, was slain in battle, about the year 1399, during the civil war between Richard II. and Henry IV. ; and all his lands were forfeited. His son, Hugh, had estates in Essex and Middlesex, where his descendants flourished for several generations : and the Fenns, of Norfolk and Suffolk, are said to have been a branch of the same family. The name still flourishes in Yarmouth. Page 42. — Palph Lampet. He was Bailiff in 1444, and lived in that part of the tovra called the Foreland. He purchased his freedom in 1430 of the corporation, for two marks. The name is now unknown. Paffe 43. — House of Correction. In 1576, the house that was " new covered at the Friars," was made into " a house of correction for the poor :" but in 1597, a committee was appointed to view St. Mary's hospital, and " to take order how to erect a house of correction ; " who reported that it might stand in part of the garden, or orchard, which might be used with it : and in the following year the south part of St. Mary's hospital was applied for this purpose. The dissolution of the monasteries had reduced to destitution a large number of persons, who had previously been supported by them ; whilst the idle and dissolute, who Digitized by Microsoft® 226 NOTES. had subsisted by the almost indisoriminate ahns given at the abbey gates, were left to prey upon the public. Kennett, in his Parochial Antiquities, after speaiing of the ahns which the abbeys and monasteries had dealt out, and the hospitality which they kept, proceeds to say, " But now that they, with their lands, goods, and impropriate parsonages, be in temporal " men's hands, I do not hear that one half-pence worth of almes, or any other profit, " Cometh unto the people of those parishes." And he adds, that what was " farr amiss " was " amended, for all the godly pretence, even as the devU amended his dame's legge, in the proverb, who, when he should have set it right, bracke it quite in peices." There cannot be any rational doubt that the poor were, for a long time afterwards, in a far worse condition than before the dissolution of the monasteries. And when mendicant monks reinforced the number of vagrants and beggars, the edge of the legis- lative sword was made sharper than ever : and a ferocious statute was passed in 1547, which declared that if " idle and vagabonnde psons," who were still relieved " by folische pitie and mercie," were " punished by deathe, whipping, and emprysonement, or with other corporal payne, it were not without their deserte ; " and enacts that " any person so living idelye and loyteringlie," might be branded with iron, with the letter " V," and adjudged to be a slave for two years of the person who brought him to justice. Serfs, however, might be claimed, and they were then " discharged of the saide slaverie ;" and it is the fact that serfs were stUl found in England as late as the reign of James I : but ultimately, although the legislature never did anything to emancipate them, they by some means obtained their freedom. This inhuman statute was chiefly levied against monks and friars, who, their occu- pations being gone, went up and down the country, " inspiring the people with the spirit of rebellion," as the legislature considered ; for the people were " apt to have compassion on them." It was, however, soon afterwards modified. For the better suppression of mendici^, houses of correction were established in all the principal towns, and the sort of discipline then used, may be gathered from the Code of Orders and Rules agreed to by the Justices of Sufiblk, at a General Sessions, held at Bury St. Edmund's, in 1589, when they determined to build "one convenient house, which shall be called the House of Correction." By the regulations then made, " every strange and sturdie roag, at his or her first coming into the said house," was to have " xij stripes upon his beare skynne, with the " whipp provided for the said house ; and every yong roage or idle loytererer, vj stripes " with the said whipp, in forme aforesaid ; " and " every one of them, without fayle, at his " fyrst comminge into the said house, shall have putt uppon hym or her, some clogge " cheine, collar of iron, ringle or manacle, such as the keeper of the said house shall " tliinke meete ; " and " all unrulie and stubbome persons shall be corrected oft'ner, Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 227 *" and used both with harder cloggs, &c., and with thinner diett and harder labour, " untyll he or she be brought to reasonable obedience." It must be borne in mind, that immediately upon the dissolution of the monasteries, there was no other provision made for the poor than what could be gathered by the " gentle askings " of collectors, and the exhortations of the clergy " to give weekly of their charity." In ancient times, the poor were, in fact, entirely confided to the clergy : a relic of which remains to this day ; for churchwardens are still, by virtue of their office, overseers of the poor of the ecclesiastical district for which they serve. Before the dissolution, each monastery had its poor-house or alms-house, with a relieving officer, called Eleemosinarius, or the almoner, whose duty it also was to visit the sick at their out-houses, and there to relieve them. Oblations and offerings were given to the clergy, (as indeed they are stiU to some extent,) as the dispensers of alms to the poor ; so also it was in the name of the poor that they demanded contributions from the rich : and receiv- ing large sums and bequests in this way, they were bound to provide for the poor : and it is certain that provision for the sick, aged, and otherwise impotent poor, was largely made, out of the vast possessions of the monasteries, even to the very day of their con- fiscation. The ill effects, however, of their indiscriminate charity had been previously felt : for in 1536 an act was passed " for the avoiding of aU such inconveniences as often " times have, and daily do, chance among the people, by common and open doles ; and " that, the most commonly, unto such doles many persons do resort which have no need " of the same :" and enacting, " that no manner of person shall make any common dole, " or give any ready money in alms, otherwise than to the common boxes and common " gatherings for the putting in due execution of the good intents and purposes contained " in the act, upon pain to forfeit ten times the value." And the same statute further enacts that aU persons found to give any money, food, or other sustentation, to poor people, should give the same to the " common boxes," towards the common alms and relief of poor people. It is curious that about the same time a precisely similar provision, and for exactly the same reason, was promulgated by an ordinance of the King of France. For the purpose of making some better provision for the relief of the poor, it was enacted that the head officers of corporate towns, and the churchwardens, and two other of every parish, should gather money, by the " charitable and voluntarie almes of the good christian people within the same, with boxes, evy Sunday, holyday, and other festival! day ;" and " ivy preacher, pson, vicar, and curate, as well in all and evy smons " collacions, biddynges of the bands, as in all times of confessions, and at the making of " willes [which proves that wiUs were at that time made by the clergy,] orj^estamentes " of any psonnes, at all times of the yere, shall exhorte, move, sterr, and pvoke people « to be libaU, and bountefully to extende their good and charitable almes and contri- Digitized by Microsoft® 228 NOTES. " bucions from tyme to tyme, for and towards the comforte and reKefe of the said pore, " impotent, deerepite, indigent, and nedie people ; as for the seting and keping to con- " tinuall worke and labour of the foresaid ruffelers [serving men having no masters] " stnrdie vacabundes, and valiant beggers," and the accounts of the produce and appli- cation of the alms so collected, were to be kept by the " parson, vicar, or parish priest, or some other honorman, of every parish, without taking or demanding anything for the same.'' Such was the existing legislation of England, respecting the poor, at the time monasteries were finally suppressed, in 1539. These provisions, however scanty, naturally induced needy persons to flock to the towns : and it became the policy of the latter to keep them out. Thus, in 1553, an order was made that no person in Yarmouth should let a house to destitute or diseased persons, on pain of being committed to prison till they found surety for their mainten- ance, unless such persons had been inhabitants of the town for three years previously : and, in 1554, it was made unlawful for any owner of a house to let it to any person without the consent of the bailiifs (or their deputies) with one justice, the constable cer- tifying that such person was a " lawful tenant." And for the relief of the poor, every inhabitant was required to contribute weekly, on pain of imprisonment : and in 1556, Thomas Garton and three others were appointed to consult with " certain honest women,'' to see by what means the poor might be set to work : also a treasurer was appointed, to receive the money collected for the relief of the poor weekly, and to pay it to the chamberlains in each ward, who were to distribute the same. The magistrates of Yarmouth seem to have been somewhat in advance of the law, for it was not until 1562 that the statute was passed which made the payment compul- sory. It enacts that if any person of his " frowarde and valfuU minde " obstinately refuses to give weekly to the relief of the poor, according to his ability, then the bishop, or ordinary of the diocese, should have power to bind him to appear at the sessions ; and on his refusal to be bound, the bishop might commit him to prison : and, if then he could not be « persuaded to extende his charity towards the relief of the poor," the justices, with the churchwardens, were empowered to tax such '* obstinate person " accord- ing to their discretion ; and if he refused to pay, he might be committed to gaol. Thus it will be seen that the bishop was invested with the duty of chief almoner to the poor. By this statute compulsory taxation of any parishioner by merely secular authority, was for the first time authorised : but it was only in case of non-compliance with the request of the minister and churchwardens, followed by an obstinate refusal to yield to the persuasions of the bishop, that the perverse recusant could be handed over to the secular arm. In 1571, a stiU greater change was made, for a discretionary power was conferred on justices of peace out of sessions, to tax every person in their Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 229 division, and to direct the application of the money which they vere thus entitled to levy. It was not, however, till 1600 that the famous statute of Elizabeth was passed ; under which the funds needed for the relief of the poor throughout England are still raised. By this act, overseers were added to churchwardens : and the " setting to worke all such psons, married or unmarried, havinge no meanes to mantaine themselves," was first enjoined. For a long period after the passing of this act, its humane and reasonable provisions were administered without the removal of paupers from one part of the kingdom to an- other. Destitution was relieved wherever found ; and it was reserved for the times of King Ciharles 11. to introduce the law of settlement j the impolicy of which it has taken nearly two centuries to discover. In 1616, an order was made that no inhabitant of Yarmouth should let his house to " poor incomers '' on pain of imprisonment. Some benevolent persons, in 1640, pro- pounded a scheme for raising a stock of money and fitting up a "Workhouse, where means should be provided for setting those to work who were able ; and also, for main- taining poor children, and preventing their wandering about and begging : but nothing further was done until 1646, when Mr. Owner induced the corporation to appoint a « committee to consider the ways and means of setting the poor to work, and providing a sufficient house with a yearly revenue for the maintenance of the same." In 1648, it was found necessary to make an extraordinary rate iu Yarmouth, equal to a three months rate (by which it appears that previous rates had been paid at shorter periods,) " in regard to the great deamess of victuals and hardness of the times,'' and only " halfpenny men " to be freed from paying ; and the money raised by this rate was laid out ia bread and coals, which were distributed to the poor, weekly. The bailifis and magistrates then determined to transport " such idle boys, girls, wenches, and fellows, as could not be brought to any orderlye course, to the Burmoodies, or other new plantations;" and in 1650, Mr. Isaac Preston and Mr. Bendish were sent to London, to request Mr. Corbett, before goiag to Ireland on the business of the state, to procure some help and ease for the town, in consequence of " the great charge of the poor." Mr. Owner renewed his efforts in 1649, and made an offer to give £1,500 out of his own estate, for raising a stock for building and maintaining a workhouse, which was accepted ; and measures were taken to raise other funds, of which trustees were ap- pointed : but no permanent workhouse was provided until 1663, when the storehouse at St. Mary's hospital was converted to this purpose ; and " convenient places " were ordered to be found " to lay the King's ammunition in.'' It was determined, in 1664, to puU down part of the bridewell, and to make a square court in front, with a house at the end of the court, with a haU " well cellered " and built uniform. Ee Digitized by Microsoft® 230 NOTES. In 1665, it was found that many persons witliin the town took " collection," who were able to maintain themselves, and also sent for their collections by other persons ; and in consequence, it was ordered that every person receiving relief, should wear on the left arm, a badge of pewter, with the town arms thereon. And for the purpose of providing a bell for the workhouse, Mr. John Gayford was presented with his freedom, " upon his furnishing a substantial clock, with a figure without, and a bell as big as can swing in the turret upon the workhouse, and fixing the same there and keeping it in good reparation, gratis, during his life ; " and in this year Mr. Jefiery Ward gave £100 to the workhouse. In 1673 it was ordered that the workhouse chamber be parted with deals, and the poor children set to work : and subsequent enlargements of the building were made, by adding a part of the town butchery. Some care was also taken for the instruction of the children, for in 1679, an agreement was made with Paul Riseburgh, " a barber in the south end," to pay him 5s. for every child he should teach to braid, and 10s. for every child he should teach to read, when such child could " read well in the bible.'' The number of children then in the workhouse was 38, which was increased, in the following year to 50. It was not, however, till 1724, that the " magazine, formerly St. Mary's chapel," and the adjoining ground, were converted to the purposes of a workhouse. At this time great alterations were made i several of the bridewell houses (or prisons) were taken down : and part of the country butchery was fitted up " for receiving idle wenches and other disorderly persons." The fire-arms and other military stores which had been left in the magazine, were removed to the Toll-house hall. It is probable that these build- ings then assumed the appearance which they retained until they were finally demolished in 1842. A view of the Children's Hospital, (as these buildings were called,) previous to its demolition, is given in Preston's Picture of Yarmouth. A new workhouse was built on the north denes in 1838, from a design by Mr. John Brown, at an expense of £7,500, (the land being a grant from the town council). It is calculated to accommodate 400 persons, and has been frequently full. It is to be hoped that, before many years pass away, the law of settlement will be abolished ; that a portion of the required funds be raised by a local rate, under strin- gent guardianship, and the rest raised by a general assessment ; by which means a more uniform rate will be levied throughout the kingdom, and much expensive litigation avoided. The greatest sum ever expended in England, for the relief of the poor, since the the passing of the new Poor Law Act, was in 1847, when it amounted to £6,180,764 ; to which should be added the expenditure of the various charitable institutions, for Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 231 that year, throughout the kingdom, estimated at not less than £2,000,000. The largest sum collected in Great Yarmouth for the relief of the poor, in one year, was probably in 1817, when £13,392 7s. lOd. was raised; the average quarterly rate being 6s. 4d. in the pound, but amounting in one quai-ter to 9s. in the pound. The sum raised in 1852, was £9,400 ; and the average quarterly rate upon the pre- sent assessment was Is. 2d. in the pound. The persons receiving relief for the week ending the seventh of January, 1853, were, in-door 322, out-door 1,240 ; and in the week ending the seventh of June, 1853, the numbers were, in-door 263, out-door 1,240. In 1687, a Cage (or Stock-house) for punishing and imprisoning vagrants and disorderly persons, was set up near the church. Subsequently, a cage (or lock-up) was built near the Theatre, and continued to be used until 1842, when better accommoda- tion was provided at the back of the Town hall. Page 43, — Education of Youth. Before the reformation, says Sir James Kay Shuttleworth, few schools existed for the common people. Some children were taught in the " Song School " of the cathe- drals to read, as well as to sing ; and others were instructed at the chantries and monasteries ; but these were chiefly destined to swell the inferior ranks of the clergy, by entering as servitors (or sizers) in the universities : for it was, and is still, the policy of the Church of Rome to recruit her priesthood from the people ; and, so far, to open a republic, in which genius may rise from the humblest rank even to her highest dignities. The practice of founding and endowing grammar schools, commenced in the period immediately preceding the reformation ; but they were then conducted by some monk of the convent or priest of the chantry : and when these monastic institutions were suppressed, their revenues were, in many, cases applied to the endowment of schools placed under secular teachers. Burnet estimates the clear yearly value of all the suppressed houses which came into the King's hands, at £1,131,607 6s. 4d. ; and states, that the King at first " seemed to design noble foundations ;" but the result was, that either " out of policy to give a " general content to the gentry, by selling to them at low rates, — or out of easiness to " his courtiers, — or out of an unmeasured lavishness of his expense, it came far short of " what he had given out he would do.'' In 1561, the baOifis received a letter from the Bishop of Norwich, desiring them to certify to the Barons of the Exchequer, " concerning hospitals and schools ; " but this seems to have been the only interference with which the town was troubled : and no assistance whatever was rendered to the cause of education. But as the principles of the reformation became more developed and defined, during £e2 Digitized by Microsoft® 232 NOTES. the two succeeding reigns, foundations for the education of the middle classes were en- dowed by private persons. At the dissolution, St. Mary's hospital was granted to the corporation of Yarmouth, who, in 1551, appropriated the great hall, on the north side of the chapel, and other parts of this building, for the purposes of a Geammak School " for all the inhabitants ; " and it was ordered that " means be made unto Mr. HaU, grammarian, of Norwich, to resort unto the town, and to be the school-master of the town, if the bailifis can agree with him.'' And in the same year, Simon More and others were instructed to view the chamber in the hospital, appointed for the school-master, with power to enlarge it, and " to make it an honest habitation for a learned man.'' In the following year, the custos (or ruler) of the hospital, was desired " to take timber of the haven," and repair " the school-house and mansion for the master.'' Mr. Hall continued master till 1553, when the " parson of Haddiscoe " was appointed " teacher of the children within this town for a quarter of a year, upon trial." In 1573 we find that, the "poor children appointed to be relieved and kept in the hospital," were to be placed there the first week in Lent. In a subsequent year they were provided with seats at church : and in 1575, it was ordered in assembly, " that the house, late Patteson's, which had fallen to the town by escheat," should be laid to the hospital, towards payment of the school-master. In 1678, John Dawson gave, by wUl, £100, for the teaching poor children arithmetic and mathematics, the interest of which was also paid to the school-master. In June, 1722, the mastership of the Grammar school (previously held by the Rev. Robert WUliams,) was given to the Rev. Robert Pitcaim, M.A., who continued in that office up to the spring of the year 1731. He published a Complete Syntax of the Latin Tongue, for the use of the school, and adapted for the " lower forms," and also for " those of higher attainments ; " from which it would appear, that the education at the Grammar school was then of a superior character. The salary mentioned by our author, at page 45, was subsequently increased to £50, provided the master had nine " free scholars ; " which sum the corporation con- tinued to pay until 1797, when it ceased, probably because there were then no free scholars at the school. The Childeen's Hospital was founded by Mr. Edward Owner, who, so early as 1634, applied to the corporation to have the disposal of part of St. Mary's hospital, towards fitting up and settling a school for the training of poor children. And in 1650, an arrangement was made between him and the corporation, whereby, in consideration of £180 given by Mr. Owner towards the commencement of a fund, to be employed at interest, and of £800 invested in the purchase of houses, the corporation agreed to pay £60 a year, and other monies, as a growing fund, xmtil there should be sufficient capital Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 233 tt) secure a revenue of £600 per annum, for the " maintenance, learning, and employ- ment of a competent number of poor children of the said borough." In 1676, the accumulated fund amounted to £9,000, which was then in the hands of the corporation, who, about that time, transferred the rentals of certain portions of their estates to the (Children's hospital, so as to make up an income of £500 per annum. They comprised the Irish estate, (which the corporation had acquired in 1653, being part of the forfeited estates of the Earl of Ormonde), ground without the north gates, the butchery, the workhouse (then newly built), and other houses and ground ; to which, in 1699, were added -the Quay-Mill gardens. In 1813, a lower or probationary school was added by the corporation for seventy boys and thirty girls. Each child educated at the Children's hospital was, at the age of fourteen, apprenticed to a trade and provided with clothes, and those intended for the sea, were taught navigation. The ground rents on the above-mentioned property amounted, in 1833, to £603 19s. per annnum; and the interest on money invested in securities being £273, the total revenue of the hospital was £856 19s. At that time thirty boys and twenty girls were lodged, clothed, fed, and educated in the hospital j being the same number as had been maintained in like manner, for upwards of a century. The revenues of the hospital continued to be managed by a committee of the cor- poration, (of which the late Sir E. K. Lacon, Bart., was the last chairman,) down to 1836, when, by the operation of the Municipal Corporation Act, the funds of the in- stitution, with the management of the same, were vested in twelve gentlemen as Qiarity Trustees, (then first nominated,) who appointed "W. Worship, Esq., clerk to the Trust. In 1841, the trustees obtained an act of parliament, which enabled them to purchase such land in front of their building, as remained vested in the corporation. The whole of the existing buildings were then demolished, and the present school-house erected, from a design by Mr. John Brown ; the intention being, to dispose of the ground in front (leaving an approach in the centre) for building purposes ; but being disap- pointed in this, the trustees have lately planted the ground, by which the appearance of their property, and of the market place, will soon be greatly improved. Since 1835, there have been educated here 1535 children, of whom 385 were admitted on the foundation, and boarded and lodged accordingly. The children now in course of instruction, are 270, (viz.) 180 boys and 90 girls ; and yearly about ten boys are bound to some useful trade. It was not tiU the commencement of the eighteenth century, that any great advances ■were made to establish a general system of education : and the first impulse was given by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, which was established in 1701. The first Sunday school was opened at Gloucester, in 1782 : and nine years later, Bell and Lancaster commenced their labours. The National Society was instituted in 1811 : and Infant schools began at New Lanark in 1815. Digitized by Microsoft® 234 NOTES. The first attempt, in modem times, to extend the advantages of education to the poorer classes in Yarmouth, was made in 1713, when a few benevolent persons estab- lished a pubKc Chaeitt School for the education of 34 boys and 30 girls, between the ages of eight and fourteen, being children of parents belonging to the town, not assessed at more than £4 per annum to the poor rate. School rooms were hired for the purposes of this institution, until 1723, when the corporation granted a piece of ground at the south-east comer of the market place, upon which two spacious rooms were erected : and in 1785, a grant of a further piece of ground, adjoining the school rooms to the north, was also obtained from the corporation, where a dwelling-house for the residence of the master and mistress, was erected ; and these buildings continue to be occupied for the purposes for which they were intended. In the course of years, this charity has been greatly extended ; the numbers now admitted are 100 boys and 50 girls, who are clothed and educated. There was formerly founded in connection with it, a preparatory infant school ; and also a Sunday school, which the day scholars attended ; but the latter only is now continued. These schools are supported by an income derived from accumulated funded property, assisted by yearly subscriptions, annual sermons, and legacies and donations. The management is vested in the minister of the parish for the time being, and eleven directors ; the latter being nominated by the subscribers annually, three of the body being necessarily re-elected. The master and mistress are required to be members of the Church of England; and in her communion the children are instructed. The total number of children, who have been educated at this school since its foundation, is 4,117, (viz.) 2,694 boys and 1,423 girls : many of whom have evinced the value of the institution, by becoming valuable and highly esteemed members of society. When the Hon. and Rev. Edward PeUew was presented to the living, he proposed the establishment of a National School, in connection with St. Peter's church, and the ground having been promised by the town council, a subscription was attempted, but nothing further done. His successor, the Rev. Henry Mackenzie, with great zeal and energy, advocated the establishment of National schools ; and an appeal was made to the public in 1845, for subscriptions, having specially for their object the restoration of the ruins of the Benedictine Priory, adjoining the church yard, for school purposes : and he was making arrangements for the formation of St. Peter's schools, when he was presented to the vicarage of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, by the Bishop of London. It therefore remained for the minister who followed him (the Rev. George Hills,) with great perseverance and judgment, to carry these designs into effect, and two schools, (one at each end of the town,) in harmony with the National society, have been]erected, and are now in full operation. The St. Peter's national schools were built by Mr. John Key, from plans furnished Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES 235 by Mr. John Brown. They are capable of containing 550 children, (viz.) 200 boys, 200 giiis, and 150 infants. A master's house is attached. The total cost of these schools (the site having been granted by the town council) was £2,000. They were opened on the eleventh of April, 1860, by the Bishop of Norwich (Dr. Hinds). The St. Nicholas' national schools, formed by the conversion of the great hall of the priory to the purposes of a boys' school, and by the erection of schools for girls and infants, in a similar style of architecture, cost, including the master's house, (but with- out the site,) £1,850. The Dean and Chapter of Norwich, made a free grant of the site, subject to the tenant-right, which was purchased for £1,000. The works were contracted for by !Mr. John Key, who employed Mr. J. H. Norfor for the wood-work ; and the whole were under the direction of J. H. HakewiU, Esq. These schools are capable of containing 667 children, (viz.) 347 boys, 226 girls, and 177 infants. They were opened in 1852, when sermons were preached by the Lord Bishop of Norwich and Dr. F. "W. Hook, of Leeds ; and a collation was served up in the great hall, the Hon. Baron Alderson, and other friends of education attending. In 1840. a spacious national school was built in the high street, Gorleston, the vicar (the Rev. F. Upjohn, M. A.) being a large contributor towards the cost of erection. The building is designed for the accommodation of about 300 children. In Gorleston, also, the Wesleyans have a small day school in connection with their place of worship, for about 30 childi-en. The following schools have also been formed and supported : — In 1719, Nathaniel Cart«r, of Yarmouth, (who had married a grand-daughter of Oliver Cromwell,) gave by wiU, £50 to a school attached to the Old Meeting House, (now the UNITARIAN chapel) ; which sum was subsequently increased by donations and bequests from Mary Hurry in 1789, Robert Allen in 1794, George Hurry in 1796 (who g.^ve £50), Samuel Hurry in 1799, Thomas Hurry ; Gabriel Clifton in 1817, and others ; and the income derived therefrom is paid to the master of the school, who teaches 10 boys and 6 girls, reading, writing, and arithmetic, and some of them navigation. In 1810 the ladies of Yarmouth founded a School of Industry, for the education and clothing of 80 poor girls : it was supported by voluntary contributions, and was under the direction of thirty ladies ; but it was discontinued in 1851, its necessity being in some measure obviated by the establidiment of national schools. The British School was established in 1813, at an expense of £655 ; and is sup- ported partly by voluntary aid, and partly by small payments from the scholars. It was instituted to educate 300 children ; and its fundamental principle is, that " no catechism, peculiar to any religious sect, shall be taught therein ; " but, that " the parents or friends of every boy admitted to the school, shall engage that their child shall attend, twice every Sunday, at such place of religious worship as they may prefer." It is in co- Digitized by Microsoft® 236 NOTES. operation ydth. the British and Foreign School Society. The number of children now under course of instruction in it, is about 200. Sunday Schools -were established about the year 1825. They are now held in ■ the chancel of St. Nicholas' church ; the teaching being conducted by such ladies and gentlemen as are w illin g to devote their time and attention to this excellent purpose. A Pkoprietabt Geammae School was founded in 1832 ; and the Earl of Lich- field having presented a site in Southtown, near the bridge, school-rooms were erected there, from a design by Mr. John Brown, at an expense of £1,500 ; and were opened in 1833, by the Mayor, (John Danby Palmer, Esq.) : the Rev. Thomas Clowes being appointed the first head master. The scholars have numbered 106 in one year, but are now not so numerous. The present head master is the Rev. John Partridge, M.A., of Jesus College, Cambridge, who succeeded the Rev. William Cufaude Davie, M.A. An Infant School was established in 1832, by Mrs. Brightwen and other ladies. A CoNGEEGATiONAL SCHOOL was erected in Gaol street, in 1845, for 150 boys and 100 girls and infants. It was opened in January, 1846. In 1847, a school in connection with the Town Mission Society, was erected upon the north road, on a site granted by the town council : the cost of the building (£300) being raised by voluntary subscriptions. It was at first called " The Ragged School," being designed chiefly for those whose station would exclude them from any other school. The average attendance is now about 200. In September, 1847, a weekly evening school for adults was added, and about 160 persons generally attend it, A day school for children was opened in February, 1852, the average attendance at which is 90 boys and girls together. The Roman Catholics established a day school in 1849, and have since obtained from the corporation a grant of land for the erection of a school-house. The Wesleyans and other congregations of Peotestant Dissentees have Sunday schools attached to their respective chapels. From returns, privately collected, the following may be taken as the present statis- tics of education in the borough. SUNDAY schools. Boys. Girls. Total. DAY SCHOOLS. Bans. Girls. Total Connected with Established Chureh 450 ?64 1214 National Schools 855 721 1676 „ „ Protestant Dissenters 636 725 1461 Children's Hospital and Charity 286 J20 406 „ „ North Mission School 80 34 114 British School 180 — 180 „ Eoman Catholic 22 23 60 Congregational & dissenting Schools 196 140 336 Totals ... 1188 1551 2839 Totals ... 1617 981 2498 In the instruction of the above number of children, the services (paid and gratuitous) pf nearly 450 male and female teachers were employed. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 237 Notwithstanding the great advances made of late years, in providing the means of education, there is stiU much to be done, before all the children of the poorer classes can be " brought up in good learning and discipline." Page 43. — A new Vessel will retain the savour of the first liquor. " In your hour of youth, *' From pure instruction quaff the words of truth, *' The odours of the -wine, that first shall stain " The virgin vessel, it shall long retain." Horace. The same sentiment is re-produced in the exquisite lines of Moore, — " We may break — ^we may scatter the vase as?>Te will ; " But the scent of the roses remains with it still," Page 47. — Sir Thomas Leighton. This officer was much trusted by Queen Elizabeth, who sent him " to assiste the " Earl of Essex, General of her troupe afore Roan, with his counseUe and service, as " well for the preservation of the s'' Earle ia goode state, as for the advancement of the " service committed." He also went as ambassador to the States of the Netherlands in 1577, and afterwards to Don John of Austria. Sir Thomas Leighton was employed to inspect the fortifications at Norwich, in 1588, when the corporation presented him with a gilt cup and two gallons of Ypocras. He was knighted in 1579, and appointed governor of the Islands of Guernsey and Jersey. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Francis KnoUys, the Lord Treasurer. His grandfather, Sir Thomas Leighton, (ancestor to the present fanuly of Leighton,) of Wattleborough, in Shropshire, married Elizabeth, daughter of Walter Devereux, Lord Ferrers of Chartley. The arms of Leighton were, Quarterly, per fesse, indented, or and gules, with the motto, " DreaD ^l&ante." Lady Leighton was one of the ladies of the privy chamber to Queen Elizabeth in 1582, receiving for wages £33 6s. Bd. per annum : at the same time Lady Drury was one of the " chamberers ; " Sir Drew Drury being also gentleman usher of the privy chamber. The value of money was then about five times above what it now is. Page 47. — James Johnson. He was the father of Thomas Johnson, who was bailiff in 1624, 1635, and 1644, pnd whose son, Thomas Johnson, married Margaret, daughter of Thomas Thompson, Ff Digitized by Microsoft® 238 NOTES. who was bailiff in 1614 and 1623. Thomas Johnson and John Carter were appointed, by the Earl of Manchester (then general of the parliamentary forces), " commanders-in- chief of the militia of Yarmouth," in 1644 ; and in 1660 he had, for some purpose, a confirmation from Sir Edward Walker, James Johnson (the son of the last-named Thomas Johnson) was deputed, by the corporation, to entertain King Charles 11. at his house, in 1671 : when, on His Majesty's progress into Norfolk, " Yannouth had first (O more than happy port !) '* The honour to receive the King and court." On which occasion the corporation presented " The King of England With the king of fishes," in the shape of three herrings, — " Not red, nor white, pickel'd nor bloat, they say," but, — *' Whose eyes were rubies, and Whose scales were gold," He then received the honor of knighthood : and, in 1681, was chosen to represent the town in parliament, when he made a pithy speech on his election, which is printed by Swinden. He married a daughter of Alderman Scottow, of Norwich : and is said to have " lived well, spent much, and died poor." His arms are recorded at the Herald's College : — Argent, a fess counter embattled, between three lions heads erased, gules, crowned or. William Johnson, Esq., was mayor in 1841-2, Page49. — Preparation for Spanish Armada. It may not be uninteresting, at the present time, to know that the following advice was given to the Queen's council, by certain " experiencede captaines," as to " the order to be taken to fight the enemy, if by force he should land " on any part of the coast.: — " jFer the manner howe to fight with the enemye, it must be lefte to the discretyon " of the generall, onely we give this advise, that at his landing he maye be impeached, yf " convenyently it may be done ; and yf he march forward, that the country be driven so " as no victuall remaine unto him but suche as they shall carry one their backes, which " will be smalle : that he be kepte wakinge with perpetuall allarrames, but in no case " that any battaile be adventured untyll such tyme as diveres leiftennants be assembled " to make a grosse armye, excepte upon spetiall advantages." Sarkian MSS., 168, fol. 110. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 239 Page 50. — It hath, Ukeicise, a Castle. The castle was situate on the west side of King street, nearly opposite the fifth gate, (now demolished) ; the adjoining Row, (No. 99,) being still called the "Castle Row." The late Thomas Penrice, Esq., erected stables and coach-houses on part of the site. The six " dormants " mentioned by our author, were great beams, placed so as to strengthen the castle, " that," as the order says, " it should come to no further ruin." The corporation also ordered a " fair gate " to be made into the castle-yard : and in 1554, the castle was again ordered to be strengthened, " and a fire-beacon to be made and set upon some convenient place." In 1562, it was ordered to be repaired : and in 1596, "the times being dangerous," the muragers were directed "to make ready the beacons and fires on the castle, and to make ladders, and repair every thing about the castle directly." In 1620, the top of the castle was taken down, and the materials em- ployed in enclosiag the east mount : and, in the following year, " the old castle " itself was ordered to be pulled down. The castle-yard was used, as late as the commencement of the present century, for the reception of Admiralty droits. Page 60. — Sir Peynold Pause. He was the son of Sir Edward Rous, of Dennington, in Suffolk, by Catharine, daughter and co-heiress of Sir John de Liston, of Badingham, in SufibLk. His wife belonged to the old Suffolk family of Ashfield. This family, long seated at Henham, is now represented by the Earl of Stradbroke. Page 50. — Thomas Belts. A family of this name was settled at Irmingland, in Norfolk, in the early part of the fifteenth century. In 1448, John Bettes settled his estates on his son, Thomas Bettes, (who was chief steward of Sir Miles Stapleton, Knt., and secretary to Catharine, Duchess of Norfolk,) by whom they were entailed on John, his son and heir, with re- mainder to Richard, Thomas, and William, his brothers. This entail was cut off, and the estates passed to WiUiam Roberts Smith, a grandson of WiUiam Smith, who man-ied the sister and heiress of WiUiam Roberts, under-steward of Yarmouth in 1560. They bore arms, Sable in chief, two swans proper, respecting each other, in base a herring naiant, or. The name of Thomas Betts occurs as bailiff of Yarmouth, in 1515, 1522, 1532, 1540, 1550, and 1567. Ff2 Digitized by Microsoft® 240 NOTES. In 1609, there was a Thomas Betts, who is mentioned as one of the principal in- habitants of Yarmouth, in the draft of a bill relating to the herring fishery. Harleian MSS., 6838, fol. 261. Page 51. — John Echard. This name is of frequent occurrence in our municipal records during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, but is now unknown. Thomas Echard was bailiff in 1537, and again in 1544. John Echard in 1552 and 1565, and burgess in parliament in 1553. Thomas Echard was baOiff in 1576, and died during his year of oflB;ce ; when John Felton was elected in his stead. Christopher Echard, (or Eachard,) of Yarmouth, had a son, John Echard, who settled at Darsham, in Suffolk, and married a daughter of Gregory Goate, of Upton, in Norfolk. His pedi- gree is mentioned in the Visitation Boole for the county of Suffolk, in 1664. Page 51. — Pohert EUis. The name of Elys (or, as it is now usually written, Ellis,) is among the earliest in the municipal records of the borough. Robert EUys was one of the burgesses to par- liament in 1328; and in 1340, he and John Elys were summoned to attend the King "de essendo coram concilia, super arduis et urgentissimis negotiis." He died in the same year f and WUliam of Worcester styles him, " Amator singularis huj'us urbis : '' and John Elys, who died in 1361, he terms, "Vir etate et glacia, prole et diviciis honor- abilior." The name continues to occur in the list of baiUfis down to the year 1442. Anthony Elys was baUlff in 1699, and mayor in 1708. Anthony Elys, his son, was mayor in 1705, and again in 1719. His son. Dr. Anthony Elys, graduated at Clare Hall, Cambridge, and became successively Prebendary of Gloucester and Bishop of St. David's : he was consecrated in 1753, and died at Gloucester in 1761. He published several theological works. Warburton mentions " Justice EUis " among the Men of Note in Yarmouth, in 1724 : Thomas EUys was mayor in 1738 j and his son, Thomas EUys, was the last of this branch of the fanuly. This patronymic is stUl extensively borne in the town. Page 51. — A fair and large Bridge. UntU the commencement of the fifteenth century, there was no bridge over the haven at Great Yarmouth. The king's highway terminated at the north end of Gorles- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 241 ton, where there was a horse-ferry, which was an appendage to the manor of Gorleston, and by which the traffic into the town was conducted, except as to foot passengers, for whose accommodation, at a subsequent period, there was a foot-ferry where the bridge now is. Therefore, during the earlier disputes with Lowestoft, one of the allegations against Yarmouth was, that as the town could not be reached except by water, it was inconveniently situated for traffic. In 1417, a charter having been obtained for that purpose, a wooden bridge was thrown across the river, on the site of the foot-ferry ; and the horse-ferry was then dis- continued, and used only as a foot ferry, as it has so continued ever since. This bridge was not, originally, a draw-bridge; but was made so in 1553, for the better defence of the town on behalf of Queen Mary : and it was so narrow, that a carriage passing over it, occupied the whole space ; and, therefore, recesses (as may yet be seen in many old bridges,) were made on each side, as places of refuge for foot passengers. It was greatly damaged in 1555 ; and Queen Mary remitted a portion of the fee-farm rent towards its repairs : and in 1570, " through the greate rage of the sea, and tempestuous weather," this bridge was " wholly broken down and spoiled." The ships which ran against the bridge and broke it down, were ordered to be arrested ; and a boat or keel was provided to ferry horses and persons over the haven. A toll was levied for the passage of the bridge ; thus in 1589, the toll was one penny for every laden cart, and one half-penny for an empty one : and by the articles of ar- rangement made with Sir Henry Jerningham, in 1 578, (see page 164,) we find that there was then a gate at the foot of the bridge. In 1785, the corporation were empowered to mortgage the tolls for £2,000 : also in that year a new bridge was erected, for which Mr. George Harrison, of Yarmouth, and Mr. John Green, of Southtown, were the archi- tects and contractors. The sum paid them was £2,150 for this bridge; which was finished the following year, when the mayor (John Watson, Esq.,) accompanied by the corporation in their robes, and preceded by the insignia of office, went in procession over the same, on foot : and after partaking of refreshments at the Bear Inn, (demolished in 1850,) returned to the Town Hall. This bridge was considered a great improvement on the one it superseded : but in 1809 the ponderous levers which had been used for raising it, to allow a passage for vessels, and which occasioned much labour and diffi- culty, gave place to an improved method, by means of elevated wheels and chains, so that (as it was then recorded with much exultation) " the leaves are now raised and lowered with the greatest facility, by the aid of six or eight men." In 1835, the haven commissioners obtained an act of parHament, which empowered them to erect a new bridge : and a temporary bridge, calculated to last ten years (but which still remains), having been built at a cost of £1,466, the former bridge was removed. Digitized by Microsoft® 242 NOTES. In 1843, the commissioners entered into a contract with Messrs. Coleman and Hall, for the erection of an iron bridge, from a design by Messrs. J. and E. Birch, for £9,950, (the next lowest tender being £17,250) : but the contractors soon became bankrupts, the commissioners being involved in litigation with their assignees and sureties. Some fresh tenders having been received, it was found that the bridge could not be erected at a less sum than £19,070 : so a further delay took place. In the mean time, a Com- mission, to enquire into the state of the Tidal Harbours of Great Britain, was obtained by Joseph Hume, Esq., M.P. : and in consequence of their report to parliament, the contemplated bridge was condemned by the Admiralty; and the commissioners were required to widen the water-way, which had been artificially narrowed for the purpose of facilitating the construction of previously erected bridges, but which restoration of the river to its original width, had been long before recommended by Mr. Rennie, when engineer to the commissioners. It was, therefore, necessary to apply to parliament for additional powers : and in 1849, an act was obtained, under the authority of which, the water-way on each side has been considerably widened ; and a contract was entered into with Messrs. H. and M. D. Grissell, for the erection of a new iron bridge, on stone piers, (according to a design prepared by Messrs. Walker and Burgess, the engineers to the commissioners,) for the simi of £23,778 : but considerable difficulty having been experienced in obtaining a foundation for the piers, and in making the cofier-dams, the bridge has not been completed within the prescribed time. The commissioners are, by their last act of parliament, enabled to borrow £40,000 to make these improvements. During the progress of the works, the remains of the former foot-ferry were dis- covered ; and in a bed of shingle, twenty feet beneath the surface, there were dug up a brazen tripod, an agate hilt of a dagger, with a portion of a leather sheath, and a stone hammer head j also, some vessels of coarse unglazed earth. There was no bridge over the Bure, at Yarmouth, until 1827, when the late Robert Cory, Esq., jun., who was the owner of the Vauxhall bowling-green, on the west side of the river, and of the Ferry-farm estate, (formerly the property of Robert Woolmer, Esq.) obtained an act of parliament, which enabled him to erect a bridge, in the place of a ferry boat, which had been used for such traffic as had previously existed between the town and the marshes. This bridge was built on the suspension principle, from a design by J. J. Scoles, Esq. ; the contractor being Mr. Godfrey Goddard, of Yarmouth : the first stone was laid in 1828, (John Mortlock Lacon, Esq., mayor). It cost £3,285, and was opened for traffic in 1829 (WilUam Barth, Esq., mayor). This bridge was the scene of a fearful accident in 1845 : a clown was advertised to pass up the river, and under this bridge, in a tub drawn by geese ; and, to witness this foolish exhibition, a large number of thoughtless persons assembled on the bridge, the platform of which had been widened, to accommodate the greatly increased traffic brought by the railway. In con- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 243 sequence of a flaw in one of the chain-plates, the south side of the bridge suddenly gave way, and precipitated some hundreds of human beings into the river below. Of these, seventy-nine persons lost their lives, and many more never recovered the shock which they then sustained. A temporary timber structure was immediately thrown across the river : and the present iron girder bridge, from a design by Mr. George Edwards, C.E., was erected on the site of the former bridge. Since which time, the Norfolk Railway Company have also erected a flat tubular open bridge, (exclusively for railway traffic,) which was first opened to the public in 1852. Page 53. — The Merchants' Guild. The grant of this guild by King John, is a convincing proof of the importance to which the town had, at that early period, arrived. Guilds were associations for the promotion of some common object, whether of trade, charity, or religion. They can be traced back to the time of the Saxons, but the greatest number were founded in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. They were called guilds, from ghilden or ghelden, to pay, (from gjield, money, a word stiU in use, as in the vulgar expressions, " out with your gheld," or " down with the gheld,") because every member contributed to the common stock of the society. Numerous guilds were established in Yarmouth, of which the following were the principal. Cfee ®r«at ©iitltl of t^e 5[5oIj ^rtnttj. This was the merchants' guild, granted and constituted by King John's charter. This guild held lands j for in the Burgh Roll of the 19* of Henry Vni., there is mention of " Tenentes terre Guilde Sainte Trinitatis." Alice, the relict of John Pynn (who had been five times bailiif and once burgess in par- liament), gave by will 6s- 8d. to this guild in 1451. ®6e ©ttiln of ^t. ffieotge. This appears to have been one of the principal of the religious guilds. They had a chapel in St. Nicholas' church : and one of the aisles was called St. George's aisle ; and _the altar was named St. George's altar, with a relic of St. George in gold. It numbered among its principal sooii (or fellows) some of the most influential men of the town. In 1382, John Reppes, of Great Yarmouth, gave by his wiU 10«. towards the support of the congregation of St. George. ®S)e TBrototte Soon ®tt£lD, Cf)e ®ttilO of ®t. Crispin ant Ctegpcacis. These were the titular guardian saints of the cordwainers. "William Scarburgh was alderman of this guild in 1525. CEie (SttilD of ©t. C'drtStopljer. In 1383, Reginald Lawesgave by will i.Qd, to this fraternity ; and in 1390, John Sleght gave 6s. %d. Digitized by Microsoft® 244 NOTES. ®j)e ®iitlD of ®t. Ctagntttfi. In 1479, Robert Atkins left by will I2d. to this guild. WiUiam Tumhaoe was the last alderman thereof. ^e ©lutn of SDur JLorn'g ZgceWfori. In 1390, John Sleght gave by wQl 5i. tq this guild. C()e ©ttitn of-tlje J&olp Crofg, In 1430, Thomas Conehythe gave by will 6s. 8rf. to this guild. He also gave 10«. to the giuld of St. John, and directed one hundred marks to be expended in masses for the repose of his soul, and one penny to be given to every poor person attending his funeral. He likewise gave ten majks towards the repairs qf the haven. C&e ®utlD of ^U 3Iotin» ®fje ILeCsJcr ©utlD of t%t J&olg ttrtnttj, Cf)e ©ttiln of ©t. 31ofin tie TBsptisit, of KolIegBp. ©je ©itilD of %t, ^atgswt. C&e ©ttiln of ^t. ^atj ne Ke Pete. In 1462, Edmund Widivell was alderman gf this guild; and John Garton in 1515. ®f)e ®ittlD of ®t. sparp in (JErnesiSurgli. ®S)e ©utln of iSDur 30,anj of ^t. Btcjolas' C^uttlft. They occupied a house in Middlegate street, " iiext to the church houses : " and after the dissolution of the guild, the corporation determined th^t this house should thenceforth appertain to the church of St. Nicholas, and that the churchwpxdens should receive the profits thereof, to the use of the church yearly. ®&e ©uilB of tlje l^otj ®io0t. In 1475, "William Shawe was alderman of this guUd. In 1540, the corporation determined to take possession of four tenements held by this guild, " and all other tenements depending upon such condition, which shall be, or is, lawful for the lessors to re-enter for want of repairs : " and in 1545, four audi-> tors were appointed to inspect the guild book; and Christopher Haylett, the then alderman of the guild, was required to deliver the stock, goods, moneys, &c., to the churchwardens, for the use St. Nicholas' church. TO)C ©tttln of ®t. Peter. In 1388, Johanna Oxley left 6s. 8d., and in 1395, ^Reginald Lawes bequeathed 40(f., to this guild. dje ©tttiD of ®t. Btcjolas. In 1479, Robert Atkins gave by will, 12d. to tins guild. John Ladd (who was bailiff in 1524) was alderman of this guOd in 1526, tSC&e al Corporation Act, passed in the following year, the day of election was changed to the ninth of November : and the allowance formerly made to the mayor having ceased, a dinner at the town-hall was dispensed with, until the election of S. C. Marsh, Esq. (for the second time) to that oiSee, in 1852, when the custom was revived in a manner less expensive to the chief magistrate. It had also been customary, when the public money could be applied for such pur- poses, for the corporation to give a dinner to the principal inhabitants, on " the first Friday in clene Lent," being the Friday before Palm Sunday, commonly called Black Friday : and for the mayor to entertain the Recorder and Justices, the Bar, and a large party, half yearly, on the holding of the sessions. Taffe 65.— The Streets. Until 1813, there was no cross street in Yarmouth ; the principal streets all running iiorth and south : and carriages were therefore compelled to take a circuitous route, either by Fuller's hiU or Friar's lane. To remedy this inconvenience. Regent street was formed; not, however, without violent opposition on the part of many of the inhabitants, (as is too often the case in regard to the most obvious improvements,) who contended that those who " rode in coaches " might go round, whilst those who walked were con- tent with the rows. This new street was opened on the twenty-ninth of September, 1813, when Jacob Preston, Esq. was inaugurated as mayor. It is to be regretted that the old names of the streets should not have been retained. Middlegate street, for instance, being a far better designation than its modern name of Gaol street : Friar's lane, which marked the precincts of the Black Friars, has been modernized to South street ; whilst the names of George street and Charlotte street, ap- plied to the oldest streets in the town, date no further back than " when George the Third was King." The former is properly Conge street ; and the latter Middle street, terminating towards the south with BKnd Middle street (because it leads into no other street), now called Howard street. Previous to 1678, there were no houses on the east side of King street ; which part of the town was then called Dene-side : and the ground now built upon, was used by the rope makers. In that year, " all the ropers' posts, and things there," were ordered to be " pulled up ; " and the ground was sold for building purposes, realising £2,265 17s. 6d. The Broad Quay, between the two Forelands, was commonly called Cheapside. More attention was paid to cleansing the streets in former days, than may be supposed. In 1552, one alderman was associated with every constable, to see daily that the gutters, drains, and rows were kept clean and amended; with power to com- Digitized by Microsoft® KOTES. 27 1 mand the inhabitants " to cleanse and amend the same," under a penalty of fourpence for each offence, or commitment to ward. If the constables neglected their duty, the overseers were to commit them ; and if the overseers were negligent, they were to be punished by the bailiffs. And so early as 1553, no inhabitant was allowed to keep or feed swine or pigs within the town, under a penalty of 6s. M., " to be levied without remission : " and no geese or ducks were allowed to go about the streets, on pain of forfeiture. In 1560, every inhabitant was compelled to sweep and clean his row, on pain of commitment. In 1714, the gutters were iirst ordered to be covered. An act of parliament was obtained in 1809, for better paving, lighting and watching the town : and the first stone of the new pavement was laid in that year, by James Fisher, Esq., the then mayor. Gas works, for lighting the streets, were completed in December, 1824. In 1852, the Health of Towns Act was applied to Great Yarmouth. Page 66. — Rows or Lanes, They constitute the peculiar feature of Yarmouth, there being no other place in the kingdom built on a similar plan. " Row," is supposed to be derived from rhodio, to walk j or from the Saxon rowa (a rank), or, which is much more probable in the sense in which it is used in Yarmouth, from the French rue, a street or lane. They are certainly coeval with the town itself; and were probably adopted for the purpose of economising space within the walls. They numbered " seven score " in 1598, according to Nashe ; and there are now 154, all running from east to west, and until the opening of Regent street in 1813, they afforded the only means of access from one side of the town to the other. This was an objection raised against the old town, by Sir WiUiam Paston, when he projected a new one on the west side of the haven in 1668. The average width of these rows is about six feet; but in some, the buildings on each side are within three feet of each other. They are supposed to contain about a moiety of the population of the borough : the average number of families located in each being estimated at about twenty. The inhabitants now consist principally of mariners, labourers, and the general poor : but it is evident that, at an earlier period, the rows contained the abodes of a higher class ; for many large and substantially-built houses still remain, (although much mutilated and divided,) whose once spacious and weU-proportioned apartments, with panelled walls and pendant ceilings, evince the wealth and refinement of their former owners : and " many a picturesque old bit of domestic architecture," (says a modem writer,) " is to be hunted up amongst these rows." Some are built over, and entered under an arch- way, as Row No. 117, on the South quay, and Row No. 40, in Charlotte street. Kk2 Digitized by Microsoft® 272 NOTES. They were not numbered until 1804 : prior to which period, each row could only be distinguished by the name of some person living in or adjoining it, as " Dame Aveline's Rowe : " unless a peculiar name had been acquired, such as " a certain lane called le Castel Rowe," (now No. 99,) by which it is stiU known ; and in the time of King Edward III., we read of a row which had acquired the doubtful designation of " HeUe Rowe." The only row which greatly exceeded the average width, was one which, so far back as 1614, was called " Le Brodde Row alias Kingston Row." It is still called the Old Broad Row; and another which was made in 1667, through the precincts of the Grey Friars, was called the New Broad Row, now Queen street. A row (No. 95) leading from the Dene side to Middlegate street, was called " Kitty Witches' Row." It is remarkable for its singularly irregular construction ; and whilst it measures at the entrance from King street four feet and a half in breadth, the buildings on either side are gradually contracted together, until at the outlet only a narrow passage of barely thirty inches is left for foot passengers. Some derive its name from one Christopher Wyche, who is said to have had a house here ; whilst others believe that it was once inhabited by " Kitty Witches," who, according to Forby, ( Vocabulary of East Anglia) were women of the lowest order, who dressed themselves in a grotesque manner, and went from house to house, at some particular period of the year, levying contributions. The superstitious belief in witchcraft and witches, had its roots in the most remote antiquity; and in Europe may be traced to the time of the Druids ; though its origin, doubtless, was in the East : and the stream has flowed down to us, mingled with the relics of classical superstition. It had attained to great height in the fifteenth century, when the denunciation of witchcraft by Pope Innocent VIII., gave fury to the delusion, and fanned a flame which, during the succeeding century, sent thousands of victims to the stake. That Yarmouth was not exempt from the blind and ignorant superstition so prevalent, and which spread through the land like a contagion, is evident from the numerous prosecutions recorded in our Sessions Rolls, Thus we find that, at the sessions, holden at Yarmouth, on the thirteenth of March, 1582, Elizabeth Butcher and Cecilia Atkins, were indicted for witchcraft, and found guilty : " and because the said women were culprits," it was adjudged by the court that they should " stand openly in the pillory, in the market, every market-day, tiU with contrition of heart they con- fessed their witchcraft," when they were to be set at large. Also, at the sessions held the twenty-seventh of August, in the following year, it was decreed that Elizabeth Butcher, " because she is" culpable of the witchcraft and felony above recited, shall be retui-ned to " prison under the charge of the gaoler, there to remain till she has publicly confessed " her crime, or there to abide for the space of a whole year, and, at the discretion of the " bailiffi, to be put in the pillory, in the public market, for an example to others, &c." Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 273 Again, at the sessions held on the iifteenth of April, 1584, the said Elizabeth Butcher was for a third time arraigned, and was then condemned to be hanged with another witch, named Joan Lingwood. And in the Sessions Roll for 1587, is an entry of an indict- ment against Helena GiU, widow ; who, it says, " Timorem dei preocculis suis non hahens, " sed diabolica instigacmie seduct, ^c. urtemfaeinaconis Angliee JjKitctlctaftj apud Mag- " nam Jernemutham et infia Uhtatem ej'usdm, in ville, in quandm Catherinam Smyihe " vidua, practitavit, per quod lingua crura et tibex ipsius Catherine tunc et ibm eonsumpt " devast et periorat fuerunt contra pacem, ^c." Even the earnest men who fought for civil and religious liberty in the succeeding century, were not free from this superstition : for, by an entry in the books of the corporation, it appears that in 1645, they agreed " that the gentleman, Mi\ Hopkins, employed in the country for discovering and finding " out witches, be sent for to town, to search for such wicked persons, if any be, and have " his fee and aUowanoe for his pains, as he hath in other places." There is somethuig frightful in the way in which women, accused of this imaginary crime, were then prosecuted. At one sessions alone, there were the following indictments, — Alice Clisswell, spinster, for having " used, practised, and exercised witchcraft, and with many evil, wicked, and " diabolical spirits then and there consulted and made compact, and the same evil spirits " with evil intention did feed and entertain ;'' Bridgetta Howard, spinster, "for practising witchcraft, and feeding and entertaining evil spirits ; " Maria Blackborne, widow, and Elizabeth Dudgeon, for the same oifenoe ; Elizabeth Bradwell, spinster, for practising witchcraft and sorcery, " diabolically and feloniously used, practised, and exercised upon " and against John Moulton, the infant son of Hem-y Moulton, hosier, ffom which the " said child, in the greatest peril suffered and languished ;" and also for similar practices on Elizabeth Linstead ; and also for " feeding and entertaining evil spirits.'' Johanna Lacey was indicted for a similar offence. These unhappy woman, the record informs us, were placed at the bar, and tried by the following jury, namely, — ©eorge ©lagcocft 3Io?)n JDje jFtsnctfi IKemp JSatlltam J&oBjfelfein^ ©eorge DHinter JDsntel Cotsc 3P«ter appIejatD 31o?)n Canes ©tegory 'Becrj C6omas( J&aH TBettJamin (iEnglami ©iomss ^aje«i who, by their verdict, found them guilty : whereupon they were severally adjudged to be " suspended by the neck until they were dead : " and they were all hanged, except Johanna Lacey. At the same sessions, there were also indicted Barbara Wilkinson, widow, for " feeding and entertaining evil spirits ; " Nazareth Fasset, spinster, and Maria Vervy, spinster, for the like offence : the latter being also accused of practising witch- craft on Bridget Wade, the wife of John Wade, hosier ; and on Elizabeth Holmes, the infant daughter of John Holmes, sailor, " who, for six months, sickened, consumed, and languished;" and on Lucy Lambert, the infant daughter of James Lambert; and on Digitized by Microsoft® 274 NOTES. Augustine Thrower, the infant child of Augustine Thrower, merchant, " and for nine weeks such child languished." A more merciful or enlightened jury were impanelled who gave a verdict of acquittal. Nor were these proceedings confined to females ; for at the same sessions, Mark Pryme, gardener, was indicted for " using witchcraft and en- chantment," having declared to Anne Cann where a certain cushion was, which she had lost ; and also for " using charms and sorceries," and telling John Ringer, mason, what had become of " certain small pieces of silver money " which he had lost : of which act of clairvoyance he was acquitted. At subsequent sessions, presentments were made against many persons for witchcraft ; but \he furor against them had probably subsided, for they were not put upon their trials. The Mesmerists, Biologists, and Table Turners of the present day, had they then practised their arts, would have been in some danger 1 The infamous Hopkins used many arts to extort confessions f and when he failed, he had recourse to swimming suspected persons, by tying their thumbs and toes across one another, and then throwing them into the water. This he continued, until some gentlemen, indignant at such barbarity, took Hopkins himself, and tied his own thumbs and toes in the same way, and cast him into the water, when his body floated, as others had done : and thus, as Hudibras says, he *' proved himself a "witch, " And made a rod for his own breech." The belief in witchcraft still lingers, even in the present enlightened century ; for in 1834, the mayor of Yarmouth (John Danby Palmer, Esq.) received a letter from Lowestoft, the writer of which complained that he was bewitched by a woman, living in one of the rows near St. George's chapel; and that he " could get no rest day or night, sitting, standing, or waking ; " and that " even at church he found no comfort : " and he therefore implored the mayor to have " his tormentor examined." The rows of Yarmouth, as they appear on a map of the town, have led a writer in Dickens' Household Words, to call Yarmouth " The Norfolk Gridiron ; " to which cuK- nary instrument such map bears a striking resemblance. A fanciful idea has also been suggested for their origin, by supposing that each fisherman was, at first, accustomed to spread his nets on his own peculiar ground, which he ever after retained, leaving a naiTow passage or walk between his property and that of his neighbour. Certainly the herring nets, when spread over the south denes to dry, frequently bear an apt resemb- lance to the ground plan of the town. To traverse the narrow rows of Yarmouth, it was necessary to construct a peculiar vehicle, stUl in use. The " Yarmouth Cart " is long, narrow, and low, with two small wheels, not projecting, as is commonly the case, but placed under the seat of the car- riage, so as to occupy as little breadth as possible. Dr. Clarke declared this cart to be " decidedly of Roman origin : " and although this is not the case, it is certainly true Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 275 that these carts are precisely similar in principle to the agricultural cars in South Wales, ■which King, in his Munimenta Antiqua, contends are merely an improvement upon a vehicle as old as the Ancient Britons, Yarmouth carts were used for pleasure as well as for business, until the commencement of the present century (as may be seen depicted in Butcher's Views of the town, preserved in the Card-room of the Town-hall) ; and were kept for public hire, as well as for private use. Page 67. — Something of the Walls. During the middle ages, it was generally the duty of the inhabitants to fortify their town against the enemy: and, to assist them, the Crown usually made a grant of " murage," which was a payment in money, instead of personal service in building or repairing the walls, called murorum operatic, or wall work ; and the persons appointed to coUect this tax, were called Muragers. They continued to be annually appointed at Great Yarmouth until 1835, although they had long ceased to perform any duties. Before the charter of King Henry III., the men of Yarmouth had obtained a grant of certain customs from the merchants trading there, towards building a wall ; but great complaints having been made by the merchant strangers, the grant was recalled, and the money collected was ordered to be paid to Robert de Bodham, for the King's use. In consequence of this, and notwithstanding the charter, the design of building a wall was abandoned, and not resumed until 1284 ; when a grant of murage was again made, which authorised the collection of a duty upon all goods imported and exported : and these grants were renewed from time to time, at the King's pleasure. The work appears to have been carried on from year to year, and not to have been completed tiU 1396 (being 136 years from the date of King Henry's charter) ; after which no further grants of murage were made. The wills of persons dying during this period, contain many bequests of money and goods " for making the walls of Great Yarmouth," and " to finish the walls." The wall was begun on the east side, and probably at the north-east tower, in St. Nicholas' church yard, and proceeded southward; for in 1337, we find them at work at the Black Friars, but afterwards trace them to the north end, which was probably the last part finished. The materials used in the construction of the walls were stones and bricks. The former (Norfolk flints) were called " rock stones mixed," and " white rock stones, called caHon." It appears that " Spanish u-on " and " garbs of steel " were pur- chased for tools. Some of the stone, perhaps for ornamental work, was brought from Caen. "We also find that lead was purchased " for the cover of the towers." The face of the wall was throughout of cut flint, and the bricks used are of a form between Digitized by Microsoft® 276 NOTES. that of the Roman tiles and the common Flemish brick. There were nine gates (of which the South Gates and the North Gates were the principal,) and sixteen towers. These towers, composed of the same materials as the walls, presented a circular front, with a flat side adjoining the wall. The " mighty main ditch " or moat, mentioned by our author (page 68), was then completed, with bridges at each gate j and it was a finable oflfence to cast any earth, rubbish, or stones into it. The town being thus fortified with a wall and moat, and with gates and towers, was deemed sufficiently defended against all assailants with bows and arrows, battering rams, or other engines of war in use at that time. When great guns were introduced, it was considered necessary to strengthen the walls, by rampiriag them in the inside, and by the erection of mounts, ravelins, and other exterior bulwarks ; and fortifications of earth were also made, upon which to plant pieces of ordnance. In 1625, in consequence of an order from the Lord Lieutenant of the county, a survey of the fortifications was made by Sir John Corbett and Francis Mapes, Esq. : who reported that the situation of the town was of such importance, that it ought to be capable both of ofience and defence ; and that if measures were not taken immediately for its better fortification, a small force might take it by surprise, to the great detriment of the adjoining country, and to the " diminution of the revenue in the custom-house." The commissioners recommended that a timber jetty shoidd be made on either side of the haven, with a boom across, to open and shut at pleasure; like that erected in 1588, (mentioned at page 48,) which was then decayed. Also, that the town wall should be retm-ned for twelve feet on the side of the haven, by which a convenient place would be made for planting " two good culveriers or sakers, to command the haven seaward " and the denes by the haven's side, to the great danger of any attempt made in that " quarter; " and that three pieces of large ordnance should be placed upon the mount, by the boom, " for the guard of the haven's mouth ; " and " a murdering piece " on the east tower of the South Gate. Also, that the towers between the South Gate and the new mount (mentioned at page 46) should be " rampired with earth ; " and that " a good piece of ordnance " should be placed in the Friars' tower, the south-east tower, and Harris's tower, " the situation being commodious for scouring the walls from tower to tower, and for commanding the denes seaward, and the ships in the roads." Also, that three good pieces should be planted on the new moxmt : and " upon the bulwark be- neath seaward," five other pieces of mounted cannon ; three to be best culverins, for commanding ships in the roads, and two small pieces. Also, that two pieces of ordnance should be mounted on the Market gate, " where formerly there had been ordnance : " and two " good pieces " upon King Henry's tower, " for commanding the enemy land- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 277 •ward ; " and another piece to be planted " on either side of the end of the wall, north of King Henry's tower." Also, on the tower west of the North gate, a piece of ordnance, " to command that end of the town and haven's side." The commissioners thought that twenty-four pieces of ordnance were necessary for the defence of the town ; there being then in the town five of brass and eight of iron : and they considered two pinnaces necessary to attend on the coast, to give notice of any intended descent ; and recommended that the town should have licence to erect an artillery yard, like those of Norwich, Bury, and other places, for training men and preserving arms ready for service. An artillery yard had been provided in 1624 ; and the corporation paid the stipend of a Mr. Dungaque, " to teach the inhabitants feats of arms : " and in the fol- lowing year, aU the inhabitants were required to appear armed, in the artillery yard, every Tuesday afternoon, there to be viewed, and disciplined, and enrolled in the town bands : and, " by reason of the great danger from the enemy,'' every musketeer was to keep himself in readiness, with three pounds of gunpowder, eight pounds of bullets, and two pounds of match. In 1631, the trained bands were ordered to be exercised in the artillery yard weekly. Soon after this survey, the town ordnance was augmented to thirty pieces ; and by an order in council, fifty barrels of gunpowder were allowed at the government price, which was a seasonable relief, as the town had sustained great losses from the Dunkirk- ers, who had plundered several ships belonging to Yarmouth, and had dared to enter the roads and attack the vessels lying at anchor there. The town had also been put to great charges, not only in repairing their fortifications and in providing powder, but also in maintaining one hundred musketeers, who watched nightly, for fear of a surprise from invaders. When, in 1642, the town had declared in favor of the parliament, a committee was appointed to consider what additional defences were required to fortify themselves against the royal troops. For this purpose, all the buildings adjoining the town wall were taken down ; and such gates as were not rampired, were locked up ; and the east leaf of the bridge drawn up every night : a ditch or moat, sixty feet wide and eight feet deep, was made, surrounding the town walls from the river Bure as far as the Pudding Gate, for the defence of that part of the town, then thought to be most exposed to danger : and several pieces of large ordnance were obtained from the parliament, and other munition, with the promise of an order for a county rate, to reimburse the heavy expenses incurred. And in 1645, breast-works and platforms were built in several pla- ces near the sea-side, for planting the town's ordnance, as occasion might require, to annoy the enemy. During the civil war the towers were used as prisons for the royalists. In the reign of James II., all the brass and several of the iron ordnance were taken away. From this time the fortifications were suffered to fall into decay. Ll Digitized by Microsoft® 278 NOTES. The corporation afterwards granted leases of the ground on each side of the town wall, so that the same is now completely surrounded by buildings f notwithstanding which, the wall still remains almost entire, and can be traced throughout its whole extent. Most of the towers have become private property ; and all the gates have been removed. When a matter is determined upon, it is easy to find a reason : so, in 1776, the corporation resolved to pull down Steel's Gate, Colby's Gate, Norfor's Gate, and Moyse's Gate, " because the same were very hurtful to the fishing nets going on and ofi'the denes, on account of the nails in those gates projecting out;" a discovery which it had taken some centuries to make. In 1785, the White Lion Gate was ordered to be removed, because the same was " so confined in heighth and width as not to admit any anchor, large cable, or other bulky commodity to pass through." In 1804, Capt. Manby had leave to take down Mendham's Gate : and in 1807, William Spelman and others were authorised to remove the North Gate. The South Gate, called " The Create Gate," which was flanked by two round towers, was removed in 1812. This was the gate by which King William III. entered the town, when he landed at Yar- mouth in 1692. Page 73. — His Majesty's Commission. The Duke of Norfolk's original report to King Henry VIII., is preserved among the State Papers. In it he informs the King that, according to His Majesty's command- ment, he had been at Yarmouth, " and from thens alongst the costes of the sea, neare unto Orforde Nesse ; " and had " marked what thennemyes might doe, in doynge hurte and displeasure in these partes, if they woulde lande there.'' Between Orford Ness and Lowestoft Roads, the Duke reports, that " in dyvers places ennemyes myght lande, yet " forasmoche as there is no good rode nor harboroughe, for any armye royall to remayne " neare to the shore, against strenable wyndes that blowe from the sea," as also that ' the belowe of the sea dothe ryse so highe, that botes darre not lande there," he does not advise that any cost be incurred in providing defences : although, says the Duke, if any one should have " any hurte done ther, I am sewer to have moste, as in burnynge my poure towne of Alboroughe, and other my landes near thereunto.'' Of Yarmouth he says, " It is as pratye a towne as I knowe any where on the sea costes ; and as thriftie " and honest people in the same ; and right well buylded : but surely, if an armye royall " shoulde come thither, consideryng the buUwarkes whiche shulde beate the rode, be " but of earthe (as bankes made of turves) and so farre distaunte from the towne, I thinke " it shulde be no greate adventure for a good puyssance to lande there and bume the " said towne." He says that between Lowestoft and the Haven's mouth, there are Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 279 " suche highe clyffes, that a fewe men may defende a greate nombre for landynge there :" and that " frome the said Haven mouths unto Caster, is as good a rode as any is within " the realme, if it be not the Wight ; and in myne opynion, none other suche, as bothe " my Lorde Admyrall, Sy'* Wyllyam Woodehouse and Legge of Harwyche doe knowe " as -well as I, or better." He also says, " the same rode is four miles alonges the coste, " and as faire landyng places, if it be no greate sea wyndes, as ever I saw any wheare. " And where they of the towne have, longe tyme past, by the advise of my Lorde of " Suffolk, made bullwarkes of earthe to defende the rode against the towne, and now of " late newly repaired them, they be so farre distaunte frome the said towne, that any " galyes and shyppe botes shulde in the nyght cumme on lande there, such as shulde " kepe the s'^ bullwarkes shulde not onely be in daungier to be loste, but allso as moche " ordenaunce as ever lefte in them might be taken awaye by thennemyes, and yet the s'* " bullwerkes made to good purpose, for defence of a fewe nombre to remayne there. " For which consideracion," says the Duke, " I darre not adventure to leave there suche " pecys as your Majestie doth now send thither, but have appointed these peoys to be " layde so near unto the towne, that they shal be out of daungier, if the towne may be " kepte ; wiche, in mine opynyon, is the properest towne, the best buylded, with moste " substancyaU howses, that I knowe, so near the sea, in all your Majestie's realme : and, " as I thinke, more good buyldeng therein than is in Hampton, thoughe not so faire " houses as some few be in Hampton." But considering that the walls were " not tenable against no good pece," and that " a few demy eanones woulde make batrye suffi- cient to entre," he requests His Majesty to send Mr. Lee, " or summe other expert mann," to go there with the Duke, to consider what was best to be done " concemynge both the s"' towne and costes of the sea." Finally, the Duke declares his opinion " con- " cernynge the not cummyne of the Frenchemen into thesse parties with any mayne " armye, this yeare ; " one, that " the coste is so daungerous with greate sandes, as " well near the shore a§ on sea horde, that I think they darre not adventure to go that " waye (to Scotland) with their greate shippes," particularly as they could " never re- " turne throughe the narrowe seaes, but that your sayde navye shall suerlie feight " with them ; unto which bargayne I do byleve they woulde be lothe to cumm." " Kennynghall Lodge, 12 May, 1545." The writer of this dispatch was the third Duke of Norfolk, of the Howard family, who was much trusted by King Henry VIII., both as a military and naval commander. In 1513, when his brother, Sir Edward Howard, was killed in action with the French fleet, off Brest, he succeeded him as Lord High Admiral : and in 1524, on the death of his father, he became Duke of Norfolk and a leading member of the King's council. In 1536, he was employed against the Roman Catholic insurgents in the north ; and in 1 542, against the Scots. When the Duke visited Yarmouth in 1 545, "perceyveng that the Ll2 Digitized by Microsoft® 280 NOTES. " decaye of the haven wolde tende to the subversion of so good and serviceable a towne, " he did take pitye thereuppon, and promised to informe the King's Majestie thereof, " and to move him to be gracious unto the towne in this behalf. And at his own costes " and charges, he sent for one Mr. Tompson, Master of the Meason Dieu at Dover, " beinge reported to be a skillfulle man, to come and appointe the place to cut a new " haven, to be for the most proiitte and benefltte for the towne. And afterwards the " said Duke came to Yarmouthe, and brought with him the said Mr. Tompson, taking " his advise and counsel! ; whoe appointed out the place, and made an estimacion of the " charges of the same : but shortly after, the said Duke was committed to the tower, so " that he could not performe his promise." His son, the " gentle Surrey," was beheaded on the twentieth of January, 1547; and the Duke was condemned to suffer death on the twenty-ninth of the same month ; but the King himself dying on the preceding night, the Duke obtained a respite : and after remaining a prisoner during the reign of King Edward VI., was restored to his liberty and honours by Queen Mary, on her ac- cession; and closed his life in peace at KenninghaU, in 1554, in the eighty-first year of his age. He was succeeded by his grandson Thomas, fourth Duke of Norfolk, who was chosen High Steward of Yarmouth, in 1560, and was attainted and beheaded in 1572. The above dispatch was written by the Duke, at the magnificent palace erected by him (instead of the old manor house,) near the site of the ancient castle of KenninghaU, once the seat of the East Anglian Kings, as the name implies. At the Duke's attainder, it was seized by the King, and bestowed upon his daughter, the Lady Mary, who kept her court here. It was afterwards in the possession of Queen Elizabeth, who often visited it : but being restored to the Norfolk family, they made it their principal seat in this county, till about the commencement of the eighteenth century, when it was pulled down. The Dukes of No^;folk held the manor by the office of King's butler at the coronation : and were entitled to receive the best gold cup which the King drank from on that occasion, with the cloths, napkins, and linen, then used. Page 73. — Gardens. It had become a practice to make gardens under the shelter of the town walls ; and some remain to this day. Some of the houses within the town had gardens attached to them ; but as the ground became more valuable for building purposes, consequent upon the increase of the population, they gradually disappeared. The several religious houses possessed large gardens and orchards, of which fre- quent mention is made in the town rolls. Thus, in 1606, William Cox conveyed to Augustine Daniel, unum pomarium sive hortum, sometime called le Cloister Yarde, and a piece of ground called le Bleaching plot, and sometimes called le Churche acpoi-ti- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 281 cum, and k Porche or Gatehouse"; -which premises were, in 1 6 1 0, conveyed by Augustine Daniel to John Palgrave : but scarcely a vestige of any of these gardens now remains. In 1554, Abraham EUys conveyed to Simon Moore " a garden and cm-tilage, parcel of a place called le Ghtton," the site of which is now unknown. Page 81. — Uie Master of Mettingham College. Richard Shelton, Archdeacon of St. Asaph. He immediately preceded Thomas Manning, by whom this coUege of secular nuns and priests, was siirrendered in 1542. The buildings were entirely destroyed : and the roof, as stated by our author (page 52) was brought to Yarmouth, and employed to cover the Guild-haU, which was rebuilt at that time. Page 82. — OrrMments, Plate, ^c., sold. Although the conduct of the townsmen of Yarmouth may have been commendable, in selling the ornaments, plate, and other goods belonging to the church, " sith great necessity enforced them thereto," yet we cannot read the account without a feeling of regret. Among the silver plate then destroyed, were three chalices, one being gilt, two pattens, a pax, two cruets, a crystomary, the chain, foot, and cover of a censor, weighing 54 oz., and parts of seven crosses, weighing more than 100 oz. Of the vestments then sold, there were six copes, four being of red velvet and one of red satin of Bruges, and a velvet offeras ; six copes of black velvet, three with spangles of gold and one with beUs of gold; two vestments of red velvet, two of white fustian, and another of green, wrought with birds (probably, the double-headed eagle, which is often seen on copes) ; an old cope of blue velvet ; a vestment of silk and another of braunched silk ; four tunicles, two being of satin and one of red velvet ; four albs, four stoles, six fannons, nine parrors, eight amices, and three corporas. By " An Abreviate of the costes and charges disbursed aboute the ould and new " havens, ab. anno 1549 until 1683," we find that there had been spent " aboute the " cuttinge of the haven's mouth, within two furlongs of the south walls, about two great " peers to preserve it, and about the stopping of the old course of the haven, the sum of " £6,000 4s. id. ; towards which sum of money, were soulde the bells of the church, " copes, and other ornaments thereof, and diverse other goods and plate, belonging to " the guild and towne, all which cost was spoiled and destroyed by K.ett and his fol- " lowers, the rebeUs, in the tyme of Edward the Sixte ; and by the death of the King, " for wante of reliefe, after much suite made therefore imto hym, stopped up agayne." Digitized by Microsoft® 282 NOTES. These works were never resumed ; and the money thus expended, was utterly lost. To some, this failure may appear to have been a just retribution for making free with the goods of the church ; and may be added to Sir Henry Spelman's account of the " ill success attending many families in Norfolk, who meddled with abbey lands." The excavations for this intended haven remained, a little to the south of the pre- sent Military Asylum, till 1816, when a number of the unemployed poor were set to work in filling them up : but some slight traces are stiU to be seen. King Edward VI., in the second year of his reign, appointed a commission, to make enquiry of the goods and ornaments in all churches and chapels ; in pursuance of which, inventories were made : but, as many of the articles were afterwards lost or pur- loined, separate commissions were afterwards issued, not only to counties, but also to some of the principal towns. In 1553, William Durrant brought into the assembly of the corporation, three pair of indentures : one being between Sir William Paston, Sir John Jernegan, Sir Edmund Wyndham, and Sir John Clere, Knights, Mr. Bailiffs of this town, and Robert Eyre, commissioners appointed, by virtue of the King's commission, for the survey and sale of the church goods within the town of Great Yarmouth, of the one part; and Sir Edward Peckham, Knt., of the other part : the second pair, between the said Commissioners of the one part, and Sir Arthur Sturton of the other part : and the third pair, between the said Commissioners of the one part, and the Master of the King's Jewel-house of the other part. By the last of these, all ready money, plate, and jewels were to be given to the Master of the King's Jewel-house, with the reservation of two chalices for the service of the Holy Communion. It appears by the certificate of Nicholas Fenne and Richard Bohnn, churchwardens, that they sold as much church plate as amounted to the sum of " one hundrith marks." In 1566, the churchwardens were ordered by the corporation, to exchange the old communion plate for new : and two cups with covers were then purchased, one weighing 264 oz., and the other 23| oz. Page 84.— William Bishop. The name of Bishop first occurs in 1507, when Eob' Bishop was bailifi'. Rich* Bishop served that office in 1512 and 1519. William Bishop was bailiff in 1514, 1520, 1527, and 1539 ; and must have been a man of wealth, for, in 1548, when he again served that office (with Simon Moore) he gave £40 towards the new haven : a considerable sum in those days. We find also, that at this time " one cope and a vestment of clothe " of golde, w*" the awle and the amys thereunto belonging," were " layd to pledge to " Wylliam Byshoppe and Symon Moore, for xxiij"", which xxiij^' to be employed upon " the newe haven." Probably this was the Vestimentum principale which had been Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 283 presented to the church by Sir John Fastolfe, K.G., and was therefore pawned, instead of sharing the fate of the other vestments. William Bishop was burgess in parliament for Yarmouth, in 1554, with Thomas Hunt ; and died in 1559, leaving by his will a further sum of £40 " to the use of the haven." William Bishop, jun., and Richard Bishop, both common councilmen, are on the list of contributors to the new haven ; but the name occurs no more on the list of bailiffs. Tage 86. — William Harhorne. Sir Anthony Harborne, who was in the army of King Edward III., is supposed to have been the ancestor of the Yarmouth family of this name. They bore Gules on a fess, or, between three bezants, a lion passant sable, langued gules. These arms were granted in 1582, to William Harborne, of Yarmouth and London, son of William Har' borne of Yarmouth, who mai-ried Joan Piers, " cousin of John, Archbishop of York." William Harborne, was elected in 1571, to represent the town in parliament, in the room of John Bacon, deceased ; which election was set aside at another assembly of the corporation, on the twenty-fifth of February following, when Mr. Edward Bacon was chosen " to be the burgess in parliament, notwithstanding the ordinance for the election of Mr. Harborne." Nashe, writing in 1598, speaks of " mercurial-breasted Mr. Harborne," who, he says, " always accepted a rich spark of eternity, first lighted and inkindled at Yarmouth, " or there first bred and brought forth to see the light : who since, in the hottest dayies " of Leo, hath echoing noised the name of our island, and of Yarmouth, so tritonly, " that not an infant of the cur-tailed, skin-clipping Pagans, but talk of London as fre- " quently as of their Prophet's tomb at Mecca." Nashe refers to William Harborne of Mundham, who was sent Ambassador by Queen Elizabeth to the Grand Seignior, in 1582. His great grand-daughter married Edward Ward, Esq., of Bixley. She was created a Baroness in 1660. This was an elder branch of the family of Lord Ward. The fifth Sir Edward Ward married Susan, daughter and sole heiress of William Randall, of Yarmouth, merchant, who bore Gules, on a cross argent, five mullets, sable. Page 88. — All Benefactors are worthy of remembrance. The following benefactions have not been otherwise noticed in this work, — 1552. — Gregory Harwood gave by will £6 13s. M. to the poor. 1566. — John Mayhewe gave by wUl £10 to the corporation. 1569.— Reginald Tui-pin gave by will £5. Digitized by Microsoft® 284 NOTES. 1569.— "William Garton gave by deed the houses called the " Foreland houses." 1580.— Judith Petit gave £5. 1580. — . . . . Meek gave £10 to the corporation, and £10 to the church. 1586. — Anne Girling gave by will £20 to the poor. 1589. — Thomas Wood gave by will £40 to the corporation. 1595. — William Say and Catherine his wife, gave a house. 1597.— J. Parfy gave by will £24. 1600.— William Dassett gave by will £8. 1601. — Alice Bartlemew gave a great iron chest. 1611. — Margaret Cubit gave to the town several tenements in the Conge. 1614. — Thomas Youngs gave £50. 1615. — Sir Samuel Tryon, Knt, gave £5 to the haven, and desired to have his scutcheon of arms hung up in the church. It is stiU there, with the inscription, " ^ir ^antuell ©rjon's srmeg ate pIsceD l^ere ; " a StnDe inell tot^Jer to our ^attnout^ peete." 1616. — Benedict Bvowne gave £5 to the corporation, £5 to the church, and £5 to the poor. 1619.— Mr. Waring gave £9. 1621. — Johanna Parker gave by will four tenements. 1623.— John Coldham gave by will £10. 1625. — Thomas Medowe gave by wiU £6 to the corporation and £5 to the poor. 1627. — John Sowels gave a house. 1627.— William Cubit gave £10 to the poor. 1631. — Mr. Minn gave by will £10 to the corporation and £10 to the church. 1631. — Mr. Whitefield gave by will £10 to the corporation and £10 to the church. 1636. — Mr. Mortimer gave " a little house by the church stile." 1636. — ^William Southwell gave by will £30 to the corporation, to be lent to " decayed " members of their body, " for the better raising up their brother again." 1640. — Thomas Thompson gave two tenements in the Conge, for the habitation of four widows. 1641. — Henry Davie gave by will £30, to be lent out to " young beginners," being " honest men and free burgesses : " and £100, the interest of which is to be applied to the maintenance of St. Nicholas' church, the repair of the haven, and the relief of the poor. 1645. — ^WiUiam Freeman gave by will £20 to the poor. 1647. — John Hall (free-school master) gave by will £5. 1652. — John Trindle gave to the Children's hospital £5. 1656. — ^Kichard Ferrier gave £8. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 285 1636.— Mr. Sayer, alderman, gave by his will to buy coals, £40. 1658.— John Echard, of Barsham, gave £20 to the Children's hospital. 1661. — Thomas Crane, alderman, gave £10 to the same. 1664. — Jeffery "Ward, alderman, gave £100 to the same. 1665. — George Morse gave by will £100, the interest of which was to be distributed among the poorest sort of people in the town, during the hardest time of winter. 1675. — Arthur Bacon, alderman, gave £50 to the Children's hospital. 1677. — Sir George England, Knt., gave £10 to the same. 1678. — Mr. Anderson gave £50 to the overseers to carry on their office. 1682. — Ralph Pell, town-clerk, gave £50 in the same manner. 1685. — Anne Hall gave £10 annually, to be distributed among the poor in coals ; and £5 annually for catechising the chUdren of the Children's hospital for ever. 1687. — Elizabeth E. Welch gave a tenement in the Lamb row, for the habitation of two poor widows. 1687. — Reginald Borrett gave £77 to the corporation. 1688. — S. Ingram gave by will £8 to the poor. 1695. — Richard Ferrier, sen., alderman, gave £10 to the Children's hospital. 1696. — Sarah Thaxter gave £10 to the same. 1696. — Robert Parish, common councilman, gave £10 to the same. 1699. — John "Warden gave by will 40s. per annum to the poor, charged on his houses in the Foreland. 1699. — Alderman Green, and Bruce his wife, gave to the poor a coomb of wheat and a chaldron of coals, charged on their house in the Old Broad row. 1700. — The Rev. Edward "Wames, rector of Lammas with Great and Little Hautbois, gave by will an estate at Thrigby, comprising 250 acres, to the corporation of Great Yarmouth, in trust to distribute for ever the yearly proceeds of the same among the " poor, man by man, especially the sick, orphans, and widows, and before, all others, clergymen's widows, yearly in Easter and Christmas weeks, in the presence of the minister of the church of Great Yarmouth for the time being, or of any one deputed undei; his hand, and six of the burgesses there." 1700. — The Rev. "William Vesey gave by wiU £200 to the corporation, " to be hus- banded and employed for the best benefit of the poor." 1702. — George England (recorder) gave £40 to the Children's hospital. 1707. — John Filken gave by wiU £25 to the Fishermen's hospital. 1708. — Elizabeth Blennerhasset gave £100 to the Fishermen's hospital. 1709. — Gabriel Milleson gave £10 to the same. 1711. — Susan Packer gave by will £30, the interest to be distributed by the corpora- tion among poor widows, M m Digitized by Microsoft® 286 NOTES. 1725.— Susan Master gave £20 to the Fishermen's hospital. 1739._Phillp Kettle gave by will £30 to the poor. 1752.— Dover Colby gave by will £250 to the corporation, with a direction to distribute the annual proceeds among the poor in coals. 1758.— Robert Abbon gave £50 to the corporation, upon trust to lay out the interest thereof in the purchase of large white loaves, to be distributed on Easter eve. 1762.— Benjamin Jolly gave by will £400, the interest whereof to be distributed among forty poor widows, by the minister of St. George's chapel ; and £100, the interest of which is to be laid out in coals, to be distributed among the poor. 1811.— John Lacon bequeathed £200 to the Fishermen's hospital. 1811. — John Baldra bequeathed £100 to the same. 1812.— Robert Warmington gave £500 to the same charity. 1819.— Eleanor Wright gave a legacy of £100, " the interest to be disteibuted on her birth day." JPage 88. — Sir Thomas Woodhouse. He v.'as of a family distinct from that of the "Wodehouses of Kimberley ; and bore for his arms. Quarterly, azure and ermine, in the first quarter a leopard's head, or. Sir Thomas Woodhouse acquired the manor of Waxham, in Norfolk, by piu-chase of the Calthorp family. He represented Great Yarmouth in the last parliament of Philip and Mary, and in the first of Elizabeth. Sir William Woodhouse, his brother, was first returned for the borough in 1547. The latter appears to have been a useful and hopeful member ; for in 1550, the corporation voted him " 5° of lyng and one hundred " of cod to be bought and given to him for his gentleness to the town shewed and to be " shewed." In 1550, he was'again returned, and was much consulted by the town in their distress about the haven. In a letter to his " worchypple and lovyng frynds the baylyffes of Yarmouth," dated the sixth of December, 1560, Sir William says, " I have confarrid " wyth a very experte man in sea workes, who is come from Emdon, whom I thynke " the Queue wyll entertayne ; and for X li and his charges, he wyl come downe and " viewe your haven, and gyve you hys advyse howe ye shall worke for preserving the " same. And yf he shall take upon hym to do anny feate therein, he wyll assuere you " the same shall eifecte, or elles yt shall not be anny charge to you : wherefore, I pray " you, wryght to me your myndes with spede." By his procurement also, " Mr. Adrian Harrison, of Skedam," was sent down by the Privy Council, to report upon the proposed new haven, and to estimate the expense ; but nothing was done, and the town was left to its own resources. Sir William died in 1564; and desired to be buried in the church of Hickling, in which parish and the neighbourhood, his estates were principally Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® '•.jlyvnUr, l-o FROM Terr;,p . QiKun Elizanofli . iw'dKW^y WyiM'^^P-^Wf ^ COLLECriOK PRESERVED IN THE BRiTiSH MUSEUM, ruWish.el By L ,A .Meall.Qiiay.Yaimoutli. 1 llati iif llrmt farm^rtttl) , ft>- 't Qiicuu Elt z,ar)Oi:li FROM TH£ ORIGINAL IN T H F. COT'LDJMIAN COi.LECriQN PRFS^FjiVFa IN THE B R i T i S H MUSEUM 'LDJ^I-ftN COi-LECriQN PRES-FSV uigitizecfby Microsoft® ?uh[is,he Victoria, c. 48. The com- missioners, twelve in number, are appointed as before, except that two of the Yarmouth commissioners are elected by the £10 householders. Their jurisdiction extends up the several rivers so far as they are navigable, (except between Beccles and Bungay, where a private act interferes) ; and they are responsible for maintaining the navigation in the three rivers, without receiving any revenue in return. The distance, by water, to Norwich, is about thirty-five miles ; to Beccles, thirty miles ; to Coltishall, twenty-five miles ; and on the smaller streams, between twenty and thirty miles. Duties are levied upon all vessels entering the port (except for refuge), and upon all vessels discharging in Yarmouth roads. The duties collected in 1842, amounted to £10,074 17s. Id. ; those in 1852, to £6,735 10s., — a diminution partly owing to the reduction of the duty on coals. Besides the duties payable to the commissioners, there are other dues which are levied by the town council, partly by custom and partly by act of parliament, the proceeds of which go to the borough fund, and are applicable to all public purposes. These dues include " metage " on coals, of which 207,819 tons were imported in 1852 ; " measurage " on corn ; and " cranage." Metage has been abolished, and a duty per ton granted in lieu thereof. The dues received by the corporation, amounted, in 1852, to £2,279 6s. Id. Page 103. — A wholesome air. It is unquestionably true that the pure air from the German ocean, which is eminently enjoyed at Yarmouth, greatly promotes the health of the inhabitants, and is very effectual in renovating the human frame, when weakened by disease. There have been numerous instances of longevity at Yarmouth; but the' most re- markable one is that of Matthew Champion, who was born in French Flanders in 1682, and came over with K,ing William III., in 168l7in whose army his father was a farrier. lie resided for many years in one of the alms-houses at Yarmouth ; and in 1788, at- tended a dinner given at the Star tavern, to celebrate the completion of the first century after the " glorious revolution ; " and on that occasion related many anecdotes of King William III. and the Duke of Marlborough. He died in 1793, having attained to the age of one hundred and eleven years. His portrait was engraved for Mr. Boulter, the collector of antiquities at Yarmouth. Page 105. — JRange of Sand. The town of Great Yarmouth is protected by a range of sands, which, extending from north to south, forms a natural breakwater. Between these sands and the shore is Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 293 a spacious roadstead, capable of containing the navy of England. The sand lying immediately opposite to the town, and the principal one in extent, is the Scroby ; outside of -which, forming a double barrier, is the Cross sand. To the north-east is another, called the Newarp, being a continuation of the Cross sand. Between the north Scroby and the shore, are the Cockle and the Barber sands, which form the boundary in that dh-ection : whilst the south part of the roads is protected by the Corton sand, which extends to Lowestoft point ; which here forms the south boundary of Corton bay or Lowestoft north roads. Beyond this point are Lowestoft south roads, protected by the Neweome and Holm sands. The principal entrance into Yarmouth roads from the sea, was by St. Nicholas' gat : but, in 1768, it had so grown up as to render its navigation impracticable, and the buoys were removed. Subsequently, this channel again became navigable : but of late years a sand, called the Kettle-bottom, has been formed to the north of this gatway, with a deep channel between it and the south Scroby, called Hewett's Channel, through which the largest vessel in the royal navy can now enter Yarmouth roads. From the north, the approach is by the Cockle gat, with another channel close in shore, called Hemsby Hole : whilst from the south, the access is by the Pakefield gat, between the Barnard and Newoome sands; and by another entrance opposite Lowestoft called the Stanford Channel, lying between the Holm and the Neweome sands ; and although this channel has existed for many cen- turies, its precise position has continually varied. These sands are, indeed, frequently shifting : one called the Sea-heads has been quite washed away, leaving deep water where it once was ; and a channel called the Fishermen's Gat has closed up. In this noble roadstead it is not unusual, after a long prevalence of a north or south wind, to see as many as one thousand vessels riding : nor is this surprising, when it is known that Yarmouth roads present the only secure anchorage between the Thames and the Humber ; and that 50,000 vessels are computed to pass through them in the course of every year. But whilst affording both shelter and security, these sands render the navigation extremely dangerous, especially in hazy weather, and during sudden gales ; and great is the amount of life and property annually sacrificed. At a very early period, means were devised to afford some guide to navigators : and a great cause of dispute between the town and the portsmen, was the levying of a toll called " fire-pence," upon every vessel coming to the town, for the purpose of " sus- taining the fires, at the places accustomed, for the seciirity of the arrival of ships by night." A light-house was erected at Lowestoft in 1676, with a low shore light, to guide vessels through the Stanford channel. A floating light has since been placed at the extreme point. The several gatways are now marked by floating lights and buoys, which are under the management of the Corporation of the Trinity-house. Many theories have been propounded as to the operation of the wind upon this Nn Digitized by Microsoft® 294 NOTES. part of the coast : but it seems to be generally admitted, that the eifect of an easterly wind is to withdraw the sand from the beach ; whilst an opposite result attends the prevalence of a westerly wind. Considerable attention has been given to this subject by "W. Yetts, Esq., the result of whose observations is contained in two letters published by him, addressed to Joseph Hume, Esq., M.P., chairman of the Tidal Harbours Com- mission. Of late years, the sand has greatly accumulated along the beach, particularly since the extension of the north pier, from which it has extended itself seaward, forming, outside the pier, what is called " The North." To facilitate the landing of boats and goods, a jetty was erected In 1560, having a crane at the end. It was rebuilt in 1808, but without the crane ; and is now vested, by act of parliament, in the Haven Commissioners. On the twenty-eighth of June, 1853, the first pile of a new jetty, to be called the Wellington pier, was driven by the mayor (S. C. Marsh, Esq.) It is being erected by a company, of which David "Waddington, Esq., M.P., is chairman, under the authority of an act of parliament. The largest boats on Yarmouth beach are called yawls, and are principally employed in rendering assistance to vessels in distress. Their services being mostly required in stormy weather and the most boisterous seas, they are built to combine safety with swiftness, for both which qualities they are pre-eminent. These boats are from fifty to seventy feet in length, and carry about twenty men. Messrs. Beeching and Son-^'- have built most of those now in use : they have also greatly improved the build of the other beach boats, including those usually employed in ferrying herrings, called bullock boats, — a name originally given in ridicule, but stiU retained. Page 106. — As well of Knights as Gentlemen. Sir Aethitr Hayeningham was a grandson of Sir John Haveningham,who was one of the knights who attacked Caister Castle for the Duke of Norfolk. C See page 206.) He was high sheriff of Norfolk in 1581 and 1603; and died in 1630. His grandson, WiUiam Haveningham, was one of the judges on the trial of King Charles I., and signed the warrant for his execution. Sir Ralph Shelton was of an ancient Norfolk famUy, who resided at Shelton for many centuries. His ancestor. Sir Ralph Shelton, obtained letters patent from Edward lU., certifying that he was in the King's own company at the battle of Cressy. He was born in 1429, and was high sheriff of Norfolk in 1487. In the north aisle of Shelton church, there were the efiigies of this knight and his lady, in surcoats of their arms, — Amre, a cross or. He built the church and the hall : the latter is now in ruins. A less provident descendant. Sir Robert Shelton, sold his manor of Great Snoring, to Chief Justice Richardson; " For," said the witty knight, " I can sleep without Snoring." Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 295 These two knights, with Sir R. "Woodhouse, are styled " bar** " in the text ; an error so evident, as scarcely to require notice; baronets not having been created till 1611. Edwaed Flovverdew, Esq., was the fourth son of John Flowerdew, of Hethersett, and was seated at Stanfield Hall. He was a serjeant-at-law, and was appointed counsel for the town 1573, and under-steward in 1680 : in 1584 he was made one of the Barons of the Exchequer ; and died without issue in 1 586. Charles Calthorpe, Esq., was a member of the Norfolk family of that name, who had been seated at Calthorpe from the conquest. He was appointed steward of Yarmouth in 1573, and resigned in 1580, "being employed by the Queen in Ireland." Sir Edward Cleee, who claimed the island, was of an ancient family, who ac- quired large possessions in the Hundreds of Flegg, by a marriage with the daughter and sole heiress of Sir William de Ormesby, in the thirteenth century. Sir Edward Clere was knighted at Norwich, by Queen Elizabeth, in 1578. Page 110. — Ships fit for war helonging to Yarmouth. At a very early period, Yarmouth provided ships and men for the public service : and the assistance which she rendered to the state in these respects, was of great im- portance. Having but few ships of their own, our Plantagenet Kings were accustomed, whenever the exigencies of the state were deemed sufficiently urgent, to seize the vessels of private persons ; the owners being compensated for the detention of their property. In 1205, a list was made of aU the galleys or vessels of war that were ready for service ; by which it appears that London had five, whilst Yarmouth and Bristol had each three : and in this year, Yarmouth and the adjoining ports were required to man two galleys with " seven score mariners ; " who were to have a moiety of whatever they took from the enemy. In the following year, all vessels then in Yarmouth, fit for trans- port, and capable of carrying eight or more horses, were detained and sent tq.Portsmouth, for the King's service. In 1213, the Bishop of Norwich was required to provide three vessels, called cogs, to convey some ecclesiastics to England. Whenever the King re- quired a passage for men or horses, it was customary to send an order to the authorities of the port from which they were to embark, thus, " Find a passage for John Palmer, with our three chargers and his horse." In 1216, all vessels entering the port of Yar- mouth, with any property on board belonging to Scotland, were ordered to be arrested. And in 1242, the burgesses were ordered to fit out three of their best ships, with six boats and one galley, for the protection of the coast, and the annoyance of the King's enemies : of these vessels, William Rose and Robert Thurkyld were appointed captains ; and. were sworn before the King's Council, to serve the King faithfully, and deliver up Nn2 Digitized by Microsoft® 298 NOTES. a commission issued to Sir John de Thorp, of Ashwelthorpe, to seize all persons in Nor- folk or Suffolk, who should rise in arms against the King : and in the following year, he and the Lord Bardolf were appointed warder^s, to guard the coast of Norfolk against any invasion by the Flemish or Scots. In 1323, Yarmouth furnished twenty ships, for an expedition against Scotland. At this period, it was usual for the King to summon to his councils those persons, from the out-ports, who were best quahfied to give informa- tion as to the number of vessels that could be provided. Thus, in 1326, JohnPerebrown and Sir John Sturmy (who was of an old Norfolk family, holding lands at Surlingham,) were ordered to attend the King : and in the following year, Perebrown was instructed to select forty vessels, capable of carrying sixty tuns of wine each, to go to Scotland. In 1333, Perebrown was appointed " captain and admiral of the King's fleet, for the Scottish war ; " his commission empowering him " to punish and chastise all sailors " and others in the fleet, and to impress four ships of war, men, mariners, armour, and " aU other necessaries for the expedition." And in the same year, Henry Randolf, of Yarmouth, (who then held the office of bailiff,) was appointed " captain and admiral of all ships in the King's service, going to Scotland." In 1335, Sir John Howard was made captain and admiral of the King's fleet of ships at Yarmouth, and of all the other ports north of the Thames : and John Perebrown, Richard Fastolfe, Thomas de Drayton, and Robert EUys, were instructed to send their ships to capture and destroy some vessels of war belonging to the Scots then lying at Calais. In the same year, Sir Edward Charles, of Loddon, was also appointed " captain and admhal of the fleet, from the Thames to Berwick-upon-Tweed." In 1336, the war in Scotland was vigorously prosecuted ; and all ships of forty tons, were impressed and ordered to be well manned, armed, and victualled, ready to put to sea when the admiral should direct. Sir Thomas Ughtred was appointed captain and admiral of the fleet, as well of the ships at Great Yarmouth as of those belonging to all other ports north of the Thames, with power to impress sailors, which power was confined to the coast ; for we find that Sir John Norwich (who was soon afterwards appointed admiral,) was forbidden to impress men at Norwich, be- cause it was not a sea-port. The practice of arresting all the vessels belonging to the port, was a grievance of which the inhabitants greatly complained. "We find them, on one occasion, stating in their petition, that they had granted the King the ships required, and had equipped them for sea at their own cost ; but that he had also ordered them to fit out all their other ships, without regard to fishing or any thing else, at his wages, the moment they could be got ready ; which ships, as well fishing vessels as others, had been arrested by John Perebrown, admiral of the fleet : they prayed the King to state how many ships he wished to have at his own wages, and they should be ready ; or that he would allow them to go and make their own profit, otherwise the owners would be ruined. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 299 The King complied, by stating how many ships he required beyond those first named, that the others might " go fishing for their advantage and the advantage of the realm." In 1337, forty of the largest and strongest'ships of war were ordered to assemble in Yarmouth roads, for the purpose of proceeding to " Dortrecht " in Holland, and thence convoy to England, the Bishop of Lincoln (Lord Treasurer and Lord Chancellor of England), the Earl of Salisbury and the Earl of Huntingdon, who had been the King's Plenipotentiaries at the Court of Hainault. On returning, the Yarmouth ships captui-ed two Scottish vessels from Flanders, having on board two hundred and forty men, with provisions and stores, sent by the King of France to assist the Scots against the English. Among the passengers were the Bishop of Glasgow and many of the young Scotch nobility, with some ladies : nearly all on board, including the Bishop, were slain. Sir Walter Manny, K.G., " the martial tutor unto the Black Prince," was, in the following year, appointed to the command of the northern fleet, which was to rendezvous at Yarmouth, " by the quindesme of Easter : " and in July of the same year, the Yar- mouth fleet, conveying the troops under the Earl of Lancaster, joined King Edward HI, at Orwell, and proceeded with him to Antwerp. On the twenty-eighth of July, 1338, Sir Thomas de Drayton, a burgess of Yarmouth, was appointed admiral of the north, (see page 247,) with directions to detain men and stores, and to send them to sea, for the purpose of protecting the vessels laden with wool, then proceeding to the King in Flanders. The custody of the town of Great Yarmouth was at this period, entrusted to John Bardolf and Sir Robert de Morley, Lord of Hingham, as he was styled. Edward IH. assumed the title of King of France in January, 1340, and prepared to support his claim by force of arms. John Perebrown, Henry Randolf, Bartholemew de Thorpe, and other Yarmouth men, were summoned to attend the King in Council, " super arduis et urgentissimis negotiis : " and in the following month, the King, accompanied by Queen Philippa, was present at a tournament held at Norwich : after which he passed over to the continent ; and having left his Queen and children at Ghent, returned to England. Early in June, the King arrived at Ipswich, where forty vessels were ready to convey him and his retinue to Flanders : but hearing that Philip de Valois, his competitor for the crown of France, had assembled a large fleet at Sluys, for the purpose of intercepting him, the valiant monarch, within ten days, collected a fleet of two hundred vessels, with which he set sail ; and arriving on the coast of Flan- ders, he was joined by the northern squadron, consisting of about fifty vessels, under the command of Robert de Morley. On the twenty-fourth of June, 1340, commenced the famous battle of Sluys, which lasted twelve hours, and resulted in the total defeat of the French fleet, with the loss of from twenty-five to thirty thousand French and Genoese. In this most sanguinary and desperate sea fight, the men of Yarmouth ren- dered essential service ; and according to Nashe, " so sliced and slashed " the enemy Digitized by Microsoft® 300 ■ NOTES. " that their best mercy was fire and water, which have no mercy ; " and the Yarmouth men " had the commendation of the King himself, above all other his subjects which served him there.'' In 1341, Sir John Howard, Lord Bardolf, and Sir John de Thorpe, were appointed commissioners to array the county of Norfolk ; and in the following year. King Edward III. embarked on board the Yarmouth squadron on his expedition to Brittany, being attended by Lord Scales, of Middleton Castle, in Norfolk : but whilst the King lay en- trenched before Vannes, the English ships were attacked by a large fleet, under Prince Lewis of Spain, and compelled to retire to the English coast. Great Yarmouth had probably, at this period, attained to her greatest relative im. portance as a seaport. By one of Vincent's MSS., in the College of Arms, (No. 92, fol. 666,) containing an account of the number of ships employed at the siege of Calais, in 1346, it appears that the north fleet then consisted of 217 ships and 4,521 men; and that of these Yarmouth furnished 43 ships and 1 ,083 men, being a larger number than any other port : London provided 25 ships with 662 men ; Bristol, 23 ships and 608 men; Newcastle, 17 ships, with 314 men; Hull, 16 ships with 466 men; Lynn, 19 ships with 382 men ; Harwich, 14 ships with 283 men j and Ipswich, 12 ships with 239 men. Dunwich, now utterly swallowed by the sea, sent 6 ships and 102 men. The King's ships numbered only 25, with 419 men. When Sir Robert de Herle was appointed admiral of all the fleets, in 1363, he made Hugh Fastolfe, of Great Yarmouth, his lieutenant there. In 1371, Henry Rose, was appointed captain and keeper of the town of Great Yarmouth : three years later, when Sir William Neville was made admiral of the northern fleet, Hugh Fastolfe, of Great Yarmouth, and John Brice, of Little Yarmouth, were appointed his lieutenants. In the following year, Thojnas Palmer had a licence to seize some vessels at Blakeney, and employ them in transporting provisions and stores to Scotland for the King's service. In 1365, the Spanish fleet, notwithstanding a truce which then existed, attacked the English ships lying in tl^e bay of Brittany, and captured and burnt six vessels belonging to Yarmouth, all having valuable cargoes on board. The unfortunate mer- chants petitioned the King for redress ; and preparations were made to avenge this flagrant violation of the law of nations ; but the reign of the aged monarch, who had been the first to acquire the proud title of " King of the Seas," was drawing to a close, and the truce with Spain was renewed, In 1402, a large ship, called the Michael, of Yarmouth, belonging to Hugh atte Fen, was seized "by the men of Postok," oif Plymouth ; and this was one of the twenty-eight instances cited by King Henry IV., on his treaty with the Hanse Towns. The administration of naval afi'airs, like other important secular matters, was en- trijsted, at an early period, to ecclesiastics : and in the reign of King Ricliard I., the Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. • 301 Archdeacon of Taunton was the principal person so employed, under the title of" Keeper of the King's ships and seaports." Nor were their duties entirely of a civil nature ; for we find them frequently going afloat. Pope Urban VI., whose title was questioned by the French, sent a Bull to the Bishop of Norwich (Hugh le Despenser,) constituting him commander of all his forces in France : which being confirmed by King Richard II., the warlike Bishop levied men and arms, and obtained, especially from ladies, large sums of money, plate, and jewels ; the contributors having in return the same Indul- gence as was usually granted to those who went to the Holy Land. Ships were pressed for the service of the Bishop, who landed in France, at the head of a large army, with which he took Graveline and Dunkirk, with a loss to the enemy of 9,000 men ; and made himself master of great part of Flanders : but not being supported by the Duke of Lancaster, who was jealous of his success, the Bishop was eventually compelled to return home. However, in 1386, the valiant Bishop joined the Earl of Arundel, then appointed Lord High Admiral, and went to sea, taking with him " a warlike power of men and arms," to watch for the fleet of Flanders, then ready to come from Rochelle with wine : and meeting with them, the Earl and the Bishop rushed upon the enemy's vessels, " as sparrow-hawks pounce on small birds or doves," but were gallantly resisted by the French Admiral, whose ship " was well armed, and carried three cannon, throwing such heavy stones, that they pierced through every thing, and did much damage : " not- withstanding which, one hundred vessels were taken, " so that wine grew so plentiful, that it was sold for 13s. id. per tun, and the best and choicest for 20s.'' In the same year there was, however, an alarm of invasion by the French ; and Sir Henry Percy and Fa\ix Percy were sent to Yarmouth, with three hundred men-at-arms to defend the town. Again, in 1457, the town was called upon to d^end itself against the French ; who had fitted out two fleets, with which they rifled Sandwich, and threatened Yarmouth. Some aid was asked of Norwich ; and two hundred men were raised, armed, and sent to assist in resisting the enemy. From the reign of Kiag Edward IH., the town of Yarmouth continued to supply vessels for the service of the state ; and few expeditions were undertaken without the assistance of Yarmouth ships and Norfolk knights. On the eighth of October, 1532, there landed with King Henry VIIL, at Calais, Sir Henry Wyngfield, Sir WiUiam Paston, Sir Edmund Bedingfield, and Sir Thomas Palmer. The latter, who was of a good Sussex family, was made knight-porter and one of the councU for the government of Calais in the King's absence. In 1557, the corporation agreed " to furnish two ships of war to the sea, according to the King and Queen's commandment, at this fishing time." In the same year, Mr. Bishop and others were empowered to hire " two ships, to serve for the wars for two months : " and a committee was afterwards appointed " to view all the ships in the 00 Digitized by Microsoft® 302 • NOTES. " town, and chuse two of the best for the service of the King and Queen ; and to acquaint " the Bailiffs therewith, and whose ships they were which they should order to serve." And the constables were ordered " to arrest and warn all mariners and sea-faring men " within their wards, and give them charge to appear before the bailiffs, on the denes, " at the south mUl." A ship belonging to Mr. Garton and Mr. Bennett was chosen on this occasion ; and the next order directs her to be " immediately rigged and set forth to serve in the King and Queen's affairs, at the charge of the owners of the said ship : '' and " sufficient victuals for sixty men, for one month next after rigging the same ship," were ordered to be prepared. This vessel, when " fuUy rigged and ready," was to be appraised ; and if any losses happened to her, they were to be paid by the town ; pro- vided, that if the ship should be taken into the Queen's service, " as one of the number of Her Highness' ships," then the town was to be discharged from any claim. The town also nominated the officers of the vessels so provided. Thus, in 1576, Ralph Owner was appointed " captain of the ship of War j " and Mr. Meek, who had been ap- pointed, and refused to serve, was " committed to ward." A few days after, Tho' Hurry was appointed captain instead of Owner, and Meek was " enlarged." About this time, there being a great alarm of an attack by sea, the constables were set to watch with their wards : also two of the common council were to watch in the church steeple, one before noon, the other in the afternoon, and those refusing, were to be fined or committed ; they were to watch from four o'clock in the morning till night, having a banner with them to give notice, and for every sail they were " to give a knoll with the great bell." The gates were locked every night, and the ordnance placed on the walls : an alderman was to be present with the constables when every watch was set. In 1585, the town received a request from the Privy Council, to make a " provision of ships " for the transport of four hundred soldiers into the low eoimtries : and in order to raise the necessary funds, every alderman advanced £5, and every common council- man £2 10s.; and the rest was raised by assessment. In 1586, a committee was appointed to consult about fitting out a ship of war " to take Dunkerkers and other enemies that spoil the coasts ; " and the town was assessed to bear the expense. At the same time, a " wafting-ship " was ordered to be fitted out for the mackerel fare, the charges being paid by a rate upon the mackerel boats. It appears that on this occasion a vessel, called the White Horse, was hhed of Mr. Bailiff Ponyett at £16 per month, " to be furnished with ten cast pieces and two fowlers; " the owner to bear the adven- ture, and " part of their own society to go in her by turns." In 1588, when preparations were made to receive the Spanish Armada, an agree- ment was made with Thomas Musgrove, for a vessel called the Grace of God, to be put into Her Majesty's service, for two months at least, properly armed : for which he was to be paid £45 per month, and 13s, 4.d. pa: monti for the board of every man ; and all Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 303 prizes she should take, were to be divided into three parts, — one for the town, one for the ship, and one for the company. The muragers were ordered to provide her arma- ment, consisting of twelve barrels of powder, six minions, five falcons, twenty muskets, five dozen pikes, and twenty short swords : and Mr. Stanton was empowered to press men for her, and the town to bear the charges. " A great mishap " soon afterwards occurred to Mr. Musgrove's ship, " by the bursting of a piece and the firing of gunpow- der ; " and £30, levied on the corporation, was ordered to be paid to him. At this critical period, two men were appointed to watch every day from the church steeple. Watch and ward were ordered to be kept by every inhabitant, on pain of imprisonment ; and the fines inflicted went towards providing drums and ensigns : one alderman and one common councilman for every ward, were to watch with the constable every night, beginning at eight o'clock in the evening ; " and a drum to be beat in the ward every night." The sum of £200 was borrowed in London to pay for powder, which was re- sold to those entitled to receive it, at 12d. per pound : and it appears that the town was more provided in this respect than the government ; for an application " for borrowing powder for the use of the fleet," was refused. A store of " victuals and grain " was also provided, and proper chambers appointed to receive it. The fortifications were put into the best state of defence they were capable of j a boom was thrown across the haven at the south gates ; and preparations were made to lodge and victual a garrison of one thousand men. After the dispersion of the Spanish Armada, reprisals (in which private enterprize was engaged) were made upon the coast of Spain. In 1588, the bailifis of Yarmouth received a letter from Sir Francis Drake, requiring to know what each man would adventure " in a service of Her Majesty, then shortly to be performed by him and Sir J. Norris : " whereupon, it was ordered that every alderman should go to such as he should think of ability in his ward, to know what each would adventure. Some Spanish prisoners were brought to Yarmouth j for at an assembly held on the sixth of October, 1589, it was ordered that " the Spainyards be clothed, and set to work by the •' aldermen, in cleansing the town ; and shall have locks on their leggs : and if they " have not work enough in the town, then to work at the haven." In 1591, the Privy Council sent down a letter to the town, requiring to have a ship fitted out for the Azores, to assist in intercepting the Spanish fieet coming from India : and shortly afterwards two ships were required to carry one hundred and fifty soldiers into Normandy. Mr. Felton was thereupon sent to London, to confer with the Lords of the Council, and plead inability, unless with the assistance of the towns on the coast. In 1595, in consequence of another order from the Privy Council, a ship belonging to Gilbert Crane, was " made fit," supplied, and victualled : and Mr. Felton again went to London, to procure authority from the Lord Admiral to press men to serve in her, and to obtain a commission for assessing the town to meet the charges. This ship was oo2 Digitized by Microsoft® 304 NOTES. valued at £425 : and in the following year the sum of £300 was borrowed to pay wages. She appears to have been engaged in the attack upon Cadiz, and to have obtained a considerable share of booty. The sum of £100 was given to Capt. Some, "for his good behaviour in the ship at Cales, according to the recommendation of the Lord Admiral." Two brass pieces, that were taken at Cadiz, Were bought of Sir Robert Southwell for £45. On the death of Lord Burleigh in 1598, the Earl of Essex (who had com' manded the land forces in the Cadiz expedition) was chosen to succeed him as High Steward of Yarmouth. It appears that, in 1599, the corporation agreed to pay the bailiffs such money as they should pass their words for, in victualling Her Majesty's fleet then in the roads ; and orders were made " to be observed in every ward for the defence of the town, and for training the people in warlike affairs ; " several of the gates were ordered to be " rampired up without delay ; " two whole wards were appointed to watch every night j four men were to ride between Caister rails and the haven's mouth, " to see if any in-' vasion be intended; " ships were to be sunk " at the ballon " with all speed; and the boom across the river to be drawn down and shut every night. In 1601, the Earl of Nottingham (Lord High Admiral of England) was elected High Steward of Yarmouth. In this year, also, contributions were collected " for setting forth a ship to Cales : " and the town was likewise required to provide and victual ships for transporting six hundred soldiers to the low countries. In 1619, a book of all the shipping for service, belonging to the port, with the men, furniture, and ammunition fit for sea, was sent to Sir Thomas Southwell, Vice-Admiral of Norfolk : and the sum of £200 was raised by an assessment in the town, towards an expedition " intended by His Highness for the overthrow of the pirates of Algiers and Tunis." This was the last demand made by the Crown for furnishing vessels of war, until King Charles I. resorted to that means of raising a revenue, without the sanction of parliament ; and it is a curious fact that his first demand was made under the plea that it was necessary to put down the Algerine pirates. Ships and boats of the time of Queen Elizabeth, may be seen in the view of the town taken at that period. The vessels of war bear the banner of St. George, which was adopted by King Richard Coeur de Lion, as the national flag. Page 111. — Three great Rivers. The Yaee rises at Shipdham ; and is joined at Marlingford by a smaller stream Which flows from Hingham, and proceeding to Trowse Eye, is there joined by the Wensum. The latter river rises at West Rudham, and passing by Elmham (where the Romans had a station, and which was afterwards the See of the Bishop,) and receiving Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 305 a few contributory streams during its course of thirty miles, flows to Norwich, or NoHh- wic, (that is, the Northern Castle at the winding River,) and passing through the city joins the Yare. The united rivers thence continue their course until they are joined by the "Wavenet {wq/ien ea, the waving or troubled water, a name more descriptive of its former than its present state,) at Burgh Castle, nearly opposite to the walls of Garia- nonum, where the united rivers expand into a large sheet of water called Breydon, or the Broad Water, which forms a natural back-water to Yarmouth harbour. The BuBE has its source near Blickling ; and is supposed to derive its name from the village of Burgh, which stands on its banks about six miles above Coltishall, and which was, in the time of the Romans a place of some importance, as is proved by the number of urns and other remains found there, which furnished Sir Thomas Browne with materials for his HydriotajMa. The term hurgh, applied by the Anglo-Saxons, is as sure an indication of a Roman station, as Caister or Chester. It has, in some instances, been coupled with Surg, and may in this case have given a name to the river, when it became necessary to distinguish it from the other branches of the estuary. The Bure flows by Wroxham and Acle to Yarmouth ; receiving in its course the Ant, which rises at Antingham and the Thirne, and falls into the Yare a little below Breydon. All the above rivers being thus united, form one stream, which, under the name of the Yaee, flows past the town of Yarmouth, and falls into the German ocean. These rivers are not devoid of interest j winding, as they do, through valleys won- derfully rich with pastoral landscapes, worthy of the pencil of Hobbima ; and studded with the remains of Roman power, and of Saxon and Norman dominion. They occa- sionally form, or are connected with, inland lakes, provincially called " Broads," some of which are of considerable dimensions. Wroxham broad, on the Bure, is celebrated for the beauty of its scenery ; as is Fritton broad, near the Waveney. Hickling broad covers more than four hundred acres of land ; and Burgh, Filby, Rollesby, and Ormesby broads, which are connected together and united by a dyke with the Bure, cover about six hundred acres : and nearer the coast are Somerton and Horsey broads. These waters afibrd the last strongholds for those rare aquatic bu-ds which once abounded in this county. Spenser, in his fanciful account of the rivers which attended the marriage of the Thames and the Medway, introduces the •*.... Tare, soft washing Norwitch wall," as bringing a present " Of his own fish, unto their festivals *' Whose like none else could shew, — the which they rufiins call.'* The rufiin is a species of perch (Perca cernua,) having a remarkable line drawn down the back; the tail and fins being spotted black. These rivers and broads abound with perch, roach, pike, carp, gudgeon, bream, minnow, and other fish. Digitized by Microsoft® 306 NOTES. The corporation claimed the right of regxilating the fishing sets or stations on the several rivers within their jurisdiction, taking a small rent from the fishermen. At these places, nets were stretched across the rivers in autumn, when the sharp-nosed eels (anguilla aeuUrostris,) which abound in them, were caught in great numbers, all making their way to the sea. Those taken in Breydon water are most esteemed. John Everest, one of the Yeomen of the chamber of Queen Elizabeth, had been appointed water-bailifi', upon Her Majesty's recommendation ; and in 1 576, he obtained a letter from the Queen to the bailiffs of the town, which induced them to let the fishings in the rivers to him, under pretence that the country would thereby be better supplied : but it raised such a disturbance among the poor fishermen and the adjacent landowners, that the baiHfis, after petitioning the Queen — a chancery suit — and a trial at Thetford assizes, were fain to get rid of the lease ; the custom of collecting pence of the fisher- men, was disused; and the rivers became free to all using lawful nets. The proceedings in this case are extremely quaint and curious, and are given at length by Swinden, In 1631, four " Net Reeves " were appointed to take care, according to the King's pro- clamation, that no unlawful nets or engines were used for destroying the fry or breed of fish, in the seas and rivers within the liberties of the borough. It is still the duty of the magistrates and town coimcU to prevent the use of unlawful nets. Page 111. — Touching Water. WiDiam of Worcester made this entry in his itinerary, " Jernemutha urhs distam " ex orientali parte Norwici per centum stadia, sita inter duo fiwmina, — hahet tantam " copiam aquce dulds ad potandam rigandam et lavandam ; hdbilis urhs in cultu domino- " rum, domorum venustate, vestium honestate et ccet." Nashe, writing more than a century later, (1598) says, " Though between the sea and the salt fiood it be interposed, " yet in no place about Yarmouth can you dig six feet deep, but you shall have a gush- " ing spring of fresh or sweet water for all uses, as apt and accommodated as Saint " Winifred's well, or Tower-hUl water at London, so much praised and sought after." Such, no doubt, was then the case, especially on the denes': but, as our author remarks, the water within the waits was frequently hard and brackish. For the pm-pose of sup- plying the inhabitants with pure water, " three goodly wells " were made on the denes : one of which, on the Regent road, may be seen to this day ; the primitive method of drawing the water by buckets placed at the end of levers, being still in daily use. In 1578, the inhabitants were prohibited from washing their clothes in the public wells : and in 1601, the washing and rinsing of nets there was forbidden. These wells were repaired at the public expense ; ^nd in 1706, an order was made, that in futuye Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES, 307 the bleachers should repair the platforms, " they paying nothing for the great privilege they had." In 1694, the corporation entered into an agreement with Richard Barry, of London, and John Sorocold, of Derby, who undertook to supply the inhabitants " with good and wholesome fresh spring water." They proposed to collect a supply from wells on the denes into a large reservoir, and distribute the water through the town by pipes ; for which purpose they had permission to break up the streets. A somewhat similar plan was proposed by Mr. Dodd, in 1810 ; but, being opposed in parliament, was abandoned. In 1841, Sir Edmund Lacon and Sons endeavoured to make an Artesian well on their premises : after boring through shingle and clay for six hundred feet, they came to the chalk ; but in consequence of an accident to the pipes, the undertaking was abandoned. A scheme for supplying the town with water, by means of a reservoir on the high land at Burgh Castle, and aiding the natural springs by a supply from the river when the water was fresh, was projected in 1835, but was not supported. The large increase of buildings which has of late years taken place on the denes, has rendered a supply of pure water and an adequate sewerage matters of urgent ne- cessity. To provide for the former want, a public company has been formed, under the authority of parliament. The water will be obtained from Ormesby broad, a distance of eight miles from Yarmouth, and lifted into filtering beds ; from which it will be forced to a reservoir, upon the high land near Caister church, and thence descend to the town. A plan for the complete drainage of the denes is now being carried into effect. Page 119. — A very Sea of Herring$, The herring has always been constant to the Norfolk coast, and is found there, probably, in greater abundance than in any other part of the world. The name is de- rived from the German heer, an army, in reference to the vast numbers of this fish, which, keeping together, form what are called shoals. Naturalists apply the name to two distinct species of the genus Clupea : to one of which, only, the name of Clupea harengus is applied; whilst the other is called Clupea Leachii, in honor of the naturalist who made the discovery of a'second species. The genus Clupea is closely allied to the genus Salmo ; and are included by M. Agapiz, under the name Halecoids : the principal external difference consisting in the absence of the small adipose dorsal fin in the Clupea. Because the herring appeared upon different parts of our coasts at different periods of the year, it was long supposed (by Pennant and other naturalists,) that they were migratory,-^the same fish passing from one part of the kingdom to another, and even Digitized by Microsoft® 308 NOTES. from the North sea to the Atlantic ocean and the coast of America : but modern natural- ists assert, with great shew of reason, that they keep within the deeper recesses of the ocean, until, at particular periods of the year, impelled by a wise ordinance of nature, they approach nearer to the surface of the water to deposit the ova with which they are then buxthened ; and which require to be vivified by a sufficient amount of heat, light, and oxygen, for their developement. At Norfolk Sound, on the north-west coast of America, the herrings come up into the Sound in April, to spawn. At that time the natives lay a number of little rods of pine wood, smoothed over, with stones tied to them, under the water : amongst these the fish cast their roe, which, in consequence of its usual slimy nature, sticks fast to them. When the rods are taken out of the water, smeared over with the roes, they have very much the appearance of coral : the roe is scraped ofi^ and considered a great dainty, having acquired a pleasant flavour from the pine wood. . Herrings appear on the Norfolk coast the last week of September, for the purpose of spawning ; and are then in the best condition to become the food of man. After spawning, they are termed " shotten," and are but little esteemed. Having fulfilled this obligation of nature, they return to their former haunts about the commencement of December. A few, however, may be found at other periods of the year, particularly about midsummer ; and although small, they are much esteemed for their delicate fla- vour. It is a curious fact, that for some few years past, herrings have again appeared here earlier than the usual season ; and this year especially (1853,) large quantities were caught the last week of August. The Yarmouth herring has less oil than the Scotch herring, and is unrivalled in point of quality. It seldom measures more than fourteen inches in length, six and a half inches round, and weighs about nine ounces. The vessels employed by Yarmouth in this fishery, are usually decked boats, of from forty to fifty tons burthen, and carrying a crew of ten men. Besides the boats belonging to the town, there are many others called " cobles," which come from Scar- borough, Filey, and other northern ports. Formerly these vessels were hired for the season by Yarmouth merchants ; but they now usually fish on their own account. Each fishing boat is provided with from sixty to one hundred nets ; each net about fifteen yards long upon the rope, fastened by small cords, called " seizings." These nets are floated by corks, placed at intervals of a few feet from each other : the warp, which supports the whole, is frequently a mile in length, and is borne up by small buoys. The nets them- selves, are usually made in four parts or widths, technically called " lints," (Saxon linet,) one being placed above another, and so forming a wall in the sea ; against which the fish are invited to drive their heads. The uppermost lint was formerly called the " hoddy," (Saxon hod,) and the lowest, for an obvious reason, the " deepynge." This fishery is carried on during the night only ; it being supposed that the stretch- ing of the nets in the day time, would drive away the shoal. In the dusk of the even- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 309 ing the nets are thrown over the side ; and the boat is then steered under an easy sail, or allowed to drift with the tide, until day-light, when the nets are hauled in. A single boat has occasionally, ia one night, taken twelve or fourteen lasts of herrings, each last numbering 10,000 fish, or by the long or fishermen's tale, 13,200 : but it sometimes happens that a boat does not obtain more than this quantity during the season. The average catch for each boat, is about thirty lasts ; but a boat has been known to bring in the enormous quantity of twenty lasts, or 264,000 fish, at one time. Like all fish- eries, the catch is very uncertain. In 1789, only 700 lasts were taken by 130 boats: and in 1817, between 7,000 or 8,000 lasts were caught by 193 boats. The average annual catch for fifty years, was about 3,500 lasts. The herring dies as soon as it leaves the water ; hence the phrase, " Dead as a herring." The fish are, therefore, salted as soon as caught ; and when the boat has reached the land, the herrings are brought to the shore, and carried to the fish-house in " swills," which are open coarse wicker baskets, and differ from the " ped " used for mack- erel, and the " kid " used for sprats : all of which are local words. Arrived at the fish-ofiice, (which is under the charge of a man called a " tower,") the fish, after being sufficiently salted, remain on a floor for twenty-four hours, if intended to be slightly cured, or for ten days if intended for the foreign market ; they are then washed in large vats filled with fresh water ; " spits," about four feet long and of the thickness of a man's thumb, are passed through their heads or gills, by women called " rivers ; " and they are then hung up in tiers, to the top of the building, which is usually forty or fifty feet high, fitted up with baulks and splines, called " loves," upon which the ends of the spits rest ; the first tier being about seven feet from the ground. Fires from oak billet are then kindled under them, and are continued day and night, with slight intermissions to allow the fat and oil to drop, until the fish are sufiiciently cured ; which, if they be intended for the foreign market, is at the end of fourteen days, but if for home consumption, three or four days wiU. suf&ce, whilst for immediate eating, twenty-four hours will be enough. The first are called " red herrings," from the deep colour which they acquire ; and the two latter are known as " blowen herrings " and " bloaters." When cured, the herrings are taken down, which is called " striking," and placed in barrels, which contain about 700 fish each. From 30,000 to 40,000 barrels of herrings are sent yearly from Yarmouth to the Mediterranean : whilst the home trade, aided by the facihty of traffic afforded by railways, has of late years greatly increased. The process of curing " red herrings " was, in former times, confined to Yarmouth and Lowestoft ; but of late years it has been to a small extent, introduced at other places. The Yarmouth pickled herring is as much esteemed as the Dutch ; but few are cured in this way for sale. The number of boats employed in the Yarmouth herring fishery is now about 200, pp Digitized by Microsoft® 310 NOTES. carrying nearly 2,000 men ; whilst a much larger number of persons are employed in the occupations dependent on the fisheries, mentioned by our author. In a national point of -view, also, the importance of the herring fishery at Yarmouth may be estimated by the fact, that its produce is equal to one fifth of the entire return of the herring fishery throughout the United Kingdom. The greatest enemy to the fishermen is the dog fish, which, pursuing the herring as its prey, frequently becomes entangled in the nets j and in the endeavour to escape, rends the meshes and does great damage. The history of the herring fishery at Yarmouth, would of itself form an interesting volume, and particularly so, as illustrative of ancient customs. In the middle ages, commerce was not confined to merchants, but was also carried on by Kings and nobles, and even by high dignitaries of the chiu-ch. According to Matthew Paris, WiUiam of Trumpington, abbot of St. Alban's, in the reign of King Henry III., traded extensively in herrings ; for purchasing which he had agents, at the proper season, at Yarmouth, where he bought, for fifty marks, a house in which to store the fish till they were sold, " to the inestimable advantage as well as honour of his abbey." The monasteries throughout the kingdom were good customers for " lenten stufie ; " and the fish merchants had cause to lament a diminution of trade when these establishments and their observances were alike swept away; for although at the reformation, and especially in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, abstinence from flesh was still enjoined on Fridays and Saturdays throughout the year, as well upon other days usually called " fish days," for the express purpose of promoting the consumption of fish, and the encouragement of sea-faring men, yet the observance was gradually disregarded, and at last wholly ceased. In 1641, even in the times of the Puritans, a petition was presented from the town to parliament, praying for a better observation of fish days " for expending the fish and preventing the decay of the fisheries." So late as 1664 the corporation petitioned parliament " to have Lent, for the time to come, strictly kept and observed," and for " inhibiting of all lings, cod fish, and herrings caught by foreigners." Grants offish were sometimes made in perpetuity, as in the instance of the " Windsor herrings ; " which was a grant made by the corporation, under seal, in 1362, of a last of red herrings, to be delivered yearly, on St. Andrew's day, "to the custos and collegium of the free chapel of St. George, at Windsor." By some it is said, this gift was made as a token of gratitude to the founder of that college. King Edward III., who had conferred many benefits on the town ; and, as is expressed in the grant, that the college "might take the corporation into their prayers : " whilst others assert that it was imposed upon the town by way of penance, for the murder of a magistrate. However this may be, the herrings continued to be sent for a long series of years, until commuted for a yearly money payment of £8, still received by the dean and chapter of Windsor. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 311 Before the reformation, it was usual for the priests " to give a blessing to the fishing yearly ; " and it was afterwards customary for the minister of the parish, before the commencement of every fishing, to preach what was called the " fishing sermon : " in which, we may suppose, he endeavoured to impress upon those who were about to " go dcywn to the sea in ships, and do business in great waters," a sense of the dangers they were to encounter, and of gratitude for the abounding riches provided for their labours. Wardhouse (or Wardhuuse) mentioned by our author (page 23) as being a place resorted to by fishermen, is a port in Finland, to which the English merchants were accustomed to send their vessels to purchase herrings, not being permitted to fish on that coast. Some semblance of the once famous Free Pair continued to be seen till the close of the eighteenth century; it being usual for the Dutch fishing boats to arrive at Yarmouth a few days before the twenty-first of September, on which day they were accustomed to commence their fishing, or, as it was termed, "wet their nets." The Sunday previous was, in consequence, designated " Dutch Sunday," when a fair was held, and booths erected the whole length of the quay, to which numbers of country people resorted, to purchase dried fiounders and skate, pipes, ginger-bread, and domina clumps. The scene is thus described by an eye-witness in 1785, — " With the afternoon's " tide the Dutchmen began to enter the haven's mouth ; and it was pleasing to see them " proceed, one after another, up the river to the town, a distance of about two miles, all " open to view. They moored along a quay, just without the south gate, in a regular " line, with their heads to the shore and their sides touching each other. These schuyts " are small decked vessels, with a single mast and running bowsprit : they are flat bot- " tomed, with lee boards ; and extremely broad heads and sterns, which are adorned " with paintings. There saUs have a yellow dye, which is thought to preserve them, "and certainly has a gay appearance; they have aU striped pendants. The crews " usually consist of eight men and boys. Of these vessels about fifty came up this year. " All of them arrived in the course of Friday evening : and at night I took a walk to " view them by moonlight. The long line of masts, exactly uniform, the yards and " furled sails disposed in a regular row, the crews sitting on deck with their pipes, " calmly enjoying their repose, and conversing in a strange tongue, impressed the " imagination in a forcible but pleasing manner : the quiet and order which reigned " among so large a number, was much to be admired. On Saturday the streets were " sprinkled with parties of Dutchmen, easily distinguished by their round caps, short "jackets, and most capacious breeches. They went about making purchases, consisting " principally of coarse beef and a few common utensils. On the ensuing Sunday, called " ' Dutch Sunday,' all the country round, as far as Norwich, flocked to see the show. The " Dutch did honoiir to their visitors, by decorating their schuyts with-flags, in the gayest Pp2 Digitized by Microsoft® 312 NOTES. " manner they were able. The whole length of the quay was crowded by people of all " ranks, in their best apparel. On the denes were scattered various walking and riding " parties, especially many of the vehicles called Yarmouth carts : the Dutch vessels " forming a gay line in front ; whilst in the rear might be seen a large fleet of vessels " majestically sailing through the roads. It was a view equally striking and singular, " and not to be matched in any part of the kingdom." This friendly intercourse was interrupted by the war ; and since its close but few of the Dutch schuyts have entered the harbour. They continue, however, to make their appearance on the coast, and are sometimes grounded on the beach. French boats, in considerable numbers, encouraged by a bounty from their government, also fish off this coast. The Mackerel Fishery is another great source of employment and profit. It commences on the tenth of May, and ends on the tenth of Jiily. In 1853, about 90 boats were employed in this fishery, each carrying ten men ; and the amount raised by the sale offish, (which is always sold by auction on the beach,) was about £27,000.' The mackerel caught on this coast, are much larger and finer than those taken elsewhere. The largest ever seen, measured nineteen inches from the snout to the tip point of the tail, nine inches and a half round the thickest part, and weighed two pounds. They are a very perishable fish ; in consequence of which, they are exempted from the operation of the statute against Sunday trading. Before the introduction of steam, large quantities frequently perished before they could be brought to market. Mackerel are caught in the same manner as herrings : but the nets are made of finer twine, extend three times the distance, are only half as deep, and have larger meshes. In both the mackerel and herring fisheries, the wages of the men depend upon the quantity of fish caught. Other fisheries have been, and some are stiU, practised at Yarmouth. There seems to have been some intention, in 1631, to prosecute the Greenland fishery; for in that year the bailiSs received a letter from the Lords of the Frivy CouncQ, " not to sufi'er " two shipps to goe forth, untiO good security bee entred into, that they shall not bend " their coijrse into any parts within the privileges of the Greenland companye." In 1784, two vessels, intended for the Greenland whale fishery, were fitted out, and the number was increased to eight sail ; but after a few years, this trade, which has enriched other ports, was abandoned. The buildings occupied for the purposes of this trade, were long known as the " oU houses." The sea, in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth, is a mine of wealth, from which, in the language of Dr. Franklin, every man may draw up a piece of silver in the shape of a fish. It abounds with cod, skate, txirbot, and soles ; in the catching of which a num- ber of vessels, called " smacks," are employed; the fish being landed at Yarmouth, and' sent by railway to London. Haddocks, whitings, butts, smelts, eels, sprats, and shrimps Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 313 are also found in great abundance, especially the latter, the dredging for which gives employment to a number of poor fishermen, whose diminutive craft may be seen dotting the surface of the ocean, during the summer season. Fage 120. — Pleasant-pated Poet. Thomas Nash was born at Lowestoft, in 1558, and took his degree of B.A. at Saint John's College, which he terms '' the sweetest nxirse of knowledge " in the University of Cambridge. The mirthful sallies of this once renowned satirist, passed from mouth to mouth, in the days of Queen Elizabeth, just as the good things of Sidney Smith and Thomas Hood have done in our own j but his wit often partook of the grossness of the times in which he lived. His first work was published in 1578 : in 1587, he associated himself with Greene, the dramatist j and shortly afterwards engaged in a literary contest with the Puritans, to whom he was an unsparing opponent. In 1592, he published Peirce Peniksse; Ms Supplication to the Devil, in which he lashed the vices of the age, and complained of the neglect of literary men. This work was re- printed by the Shakspere Society in 1842. A more serious production, entitled Christ's Tears over Jerusalem, was written iu 1594, during the plague in London. In it he severely denounced the sins of the citizens, saying, " in the time of infection we purge " our houses, our bodies, and our streets, and look to all but our souls. The Psalmist " was of another mind, for he said, ' O Lord, I have purged and cleansed my spirit.' " Blessed are they that are clean in heart, however their houses be infected." He resumed his humourous and satirical style in 1596, when he published his Lenten Stuffe, concerning the Description and First Procreation and Increase of the Towne of Great Yarmouth, in Norffolke : with a new Play never played before, of the Praise of Red Serring. Fitte of all Clearkes of Nollemens Kitchins to he read: and not unnecessary by all serving men that have short board-wages, to be remembered. This is a very quaint and singular production, containing an outline of the history of Great Yarmouth, highly complimentary to that town and its inhabitants : but the larger por- tion of the book is filled with a serio-comic eulogium on the.red herring, written in a bombastic style, but frequently pregnant with true humour. It has been reprinted in the Sarleian Miscellany, vol. ii., p. 288. A tract, written by him, entitled The Terrors of the Night, published in 1594, has become extremely scarce. He died in 1601. Page 122.— The Denes. This name (probably derived from the Dutch word dunes, a plain,) was given to all the ground lying to the eastward of the town walls. These denes, or plains, have Digitized by Microsoft® 314 NOTES. greatly conduced to the health, comfort, profit, and recreation, of the inhabitants. From the earliest times, they were used by the fishermen -who came to the herring fishery, for drying their nets : and so great was their jealousy of any encroachments, that in a char- ter granted by King Edward I. to the Barons of Feversham, we find it provided, that " they of Yarmouth shall not buUd but five windmills upon the denes ; and these mills " shall be built at the least damage and nuisance of the dene, and of those who shall " dry their nets there.'' During the fishing season, the south denes may still be seen, as in the time of our author, completely covered with herring nets, spread out to dry. In 1585, Dene Reeves were appointed for the management of the denes, and continued to be elected for many years. It is also " a meet and apt place " for the exercise of men under arms. In 1585, stakes and posts were set up on the denes, " for the maintenance of archery ; '' and in 1614, it was ordered in assembly, " that for the better training up of the youth, and to " have the furniture of war in constant readiness, the mark or butt for exercise of small " shot," should be " new made ; " and that the youth and others should, " yearly, on " the Tuesdays after Whitsun day, Bartholemew's day, and Candlemas day, shoot at the " said butt ; and that every one of the corporation should bring forth a musket or cul- " Hver, to be employed accordingly." The north denes was the place of execution for criminals. A spot beyond the north gate, was called the gibbet close, and an old house near it, the gallows house ; the latter was removed in 1752. William Paine, the pirate, who was hanged at London in 1781, was brought here and gibbeted on a hillock near the North Star battery, stiU called " Paine's hill." The last execution here, was in 1813, when John Hannah was hanged for the murder of his wife. The south denes has been long used as a race course. In 1715, leave was given to John Holdrich and the other innkeepers of Yarmouth to make a race course; but annual races were not established untU 1810, when the officers of the Berkshire miUtia (then quartered in the town) commenced them with their own horses : and Capt. Lacon gave a silver cup, to be run for by horses belonging to the Yarmouth Yeomanry cavalry, which corps he then commanded. Of late years the course has been greatly improved and a grand stand erected. Portions of the north denes, (with some grounds on the north quay, called the " quay miU gardens," the Hme kiln, the butchery in the market place, and other pro- perty,) were, in 1676 and 1699, appropriated by the corporation to the children's hos- pital, and are now held by the charity trustees. When the rope makers and twine spinners were driven out of the town by the increase of buildings, they formed " walks " on the denes ; which they have ever since held, thereby acquiring an open freehold, except where the parties have preferred taking Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 315 leases, Nearly the whole of the denes lying between the town wall and the sea, has "been built upon, but, for the most part, in a manner not calculated to confer the greatest benefit on the town. It is to be lamented that, possessed of so fine a property for building purposes, the authorities had not the forethought and courage to lay out the ground on some uniform plan, and to dispose of it in such a way as might have pro- duced a large and continually increasing revenue to the town, — instead of suffering themselves to be biassed by a paltry jealousy which prevailed among the inhabitants, who were alraid that the property in the town would be injured by any improvement on the denes : under this influence, whilst leasing their property in that locality, and thereby endeavouring to raise a revenue from it, the corporation determined to grant leases for twenty-one years only j and passed a resolution in 1808, that all buildings there should be restricted to twenty feet in height, and not used as shops or public houses ! The restriction as to the height of buildings, continued in force until the passing of the Municipal Corporation Act, when this mistaken policy came to an end. Since that time, leases for seventy-five years have been granted, and the fee-simple con- veyed (subject to a rent-charge) where the consent of the Lords of the Treasury has been given. By judiciously managing their remaining property, and by encouraging the formation of drives and squares, the councU have still the power of remedying, to some extent, the errors of a past generation : and it is on this denes property that, for the future, the town must mainly depend for a municipal revenue. Page 122.— Saffron Walden. The cidture of safton in the neighbourhood of Walden, ( Weald-den, the woody valley,) is supposed to have been introduced in the reign of Edward III., by a pilgrim, who brought over a bulb, concealed in his palmer's staff, probably from Arabia, as the word is from the Arabic sapJiar. It was grown in Norfolk, in the sixteenth century, and WalsinghamVas particularly famous for it, but now it is nowhere to be found. Saffron appears also to have been grown in Yarmouth, for on a sale, by Kichard Shepperd to Charles Wyld, in 1587, of some premises, they are stated to abut on a " saffron ground." The device of the seal of the corporation of Saffron Walden, is a rebus on the name, being three saffron flowers walled-in. Page 130. — A Quay of excellent comeliness, Yarmouth quay is allowed to be one of the longest and flnest in Europe. It has been compared with the one at Antwerp (to which it is greatly superior), and with that at Seville : and, undoubtedly, it has no rival in Great Britain. The entire length is one Digitized by Microsoft® 316 NOTES. mile and two hundred and seventy yards : and for upwards of half its entire extent, it is a free and open quay. In some parts it is one hundred and fifty feet broad. A double row of trees, extending southward to within a short distance of the site of the old gates, and slightly following the graceful bend of the river, form an agreeable promenade, and produce a striking and picturesque effect. That which is daily seen, is often but slightly appreciated ; and it is a matter of regret to observe the little care which is bestowed on these trees, — many having been removed, whilst others have been suffered to decay, — the latter continuing to extend their withered branches in silent reproof. " K a city were built of marble," cries St. Pierre, " it would have to me a melancholy appearance, unless I saw in it trees and verdure." So early as 1573, regulations were made to prevent goods from lying on the quay longer than was necessary : and from time to time great care was taken to prevent all obstructions and nuisances. Page 135. — Not easily governed. It does not appear that any very serious riots have taken place, except in conse- quence of the high price of food. In 1528, there being a great dearth of corn, so that it sold for 26s. Sd. per quarter, (an extravagant price at that time,) the people rose to prevent its exportation, without intending, it is said, to injure any one ; but the riot went so far, that several young men were hanged for the part they took in it. A similar commotion took place in the fol- lowing year, and was suppressed by the Duke of Suffolk. To meet such contingencies, the corporation were accustomed to keep a store of com: and in 1550, our author's father was appointed one of the receivers of grain bought for the use of the town. In the following year, the baUiffs purchased one hun- dred coombs of malt, from Sir Thomas Clere, for £33, for the town's use. In 1553, Henry Manship's name appears among those of the body corporate, who had agreed " to grant wheat and malt of their own good will, to be in readiness to relieve the poor at all times : " and he then undertook to provide ten coombs of malt and five coombs of wheat. By a subsequent order, every member of the corporation was required " to have five coombs of wheat in readiness, to be called for by the bailiffs : " and in 1557, it was ordered, that every one who should not have corn in his house, ready to be served out when wanted, should be imprisoned for a month. Nor were the people of Yarmouth unmindful of other places, for in 1659, when a dreadful fire consumed the greatest part of Southwold, they sent thirty coombs of wheat and ten of rye to the sufferers. In 1766, the high price of food caused much distress, but there was no rioting. A subscription was raised and a quantity of wheat purchased, ground into meal, and sold. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 317 under proper regulations, at about half the ciu-rent price. The number of loaves dis- tributed on this occasion was 60,132. In 1791, provisions being extremely dear, a riot, which was with difficulty sup- pressed, occurred in the market place ; but some of the ring-leaders who had been lodged in gaol, having been rescued by the mob, the aid of the military was called in, and the peace of the town preserved. In 1851, (Capt. Pearson, E.N., mayor,) the sailors of the port combined to obtain an advance of wages, and a repeal of some recent legislative enactments. An attempt was made, by a riotous assembly, to force the police station ; and the authority of the magistrates having been set at defiance, the 11* Hussars, then at Norwich under the command of the Earl of Cardigan, were sent for, by whom the commotion was quickly suppressed without bloodshed. Page 141. — Bishop Felton. Nicholas Felton, Bishop of Ely, was born at Yarmouth in 1563. His father, John Felton, was bailiff in 1569, 1585, and 1599. Nicholas Felton was a Fellow (afterwards Master) of Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, and a Prebendary of St. Paul's. He was consecrated Bishop of Bristol in 1617, translated to Ely in 1619, and died in 1626. Bishop Felton was one of the prelates employed by King James I., to make a new translation of the bible. There was a good family of this name, in Norfolk, who bore Qules, two lions passant, ermine ; crowned or. Page 143. — A mighty rascally rout of Babels. For the support of his army in France, Kichard II. obtained a subsidy, towards which every person in the kingdom, above sixteen years of age, was compelled to pay fourpenoe. This " poll-tax " raised " such a grudge and bitter cursing " among the common people, that they broke out in rebellion ; the immediate cause being the indignity offered to the daughter of Wat Tyler, by the collector of the " poll groat." The people of Suffolk, being in communication with Tyler, rose in great numbers and burnt and destroyed many houses in the country — marched upon Bury St. Ed- mund's — captured and slew Sir John Cavendish, the Lord Chief Justice — forced the monastery — seized Sir John Lakinghithe, the Keeper of the Barony, and beheaded him in the market place. Sir John Cambridge, the Prior, having been taken by them, near MUdenhaU, was also slain ,■ and the heads of aU three were placed on the same pillory, end treated with great indignity. Qq Digitized by Microsoft® 318 NOTES. This insurrection spread into Norfolk, where the common people also rose and attacked Yarmouth : but being driven out of that town, they marched upon Norwich, causing every man to rise with them, so that they left no " villains " behind. Having been joined there by John the litester (or dyer), they constituted him their leader ; and threatened to bum the city. Sir Robert de Salle, who was " of his body one of the biggest knightes in all Englande," was then in command of the city, and he, thinking to appease the multitude, went forth to speak with them. They received him with " grete chere, and honoured hym muche," asking him to be their " maister,'' and they would make him " so great a lorde, that one quarter of England should be undre his obeysaunee." This proposal being " greatlye contraryous to his mynde," he called them false and evil traitors, and attempted to leap on his horse again and return to the city, but his horse starting, he " fayled of the styrrope ; " whereupon, " they cryed all at hym and sayde, ' slee hym without mercy.' " When the knight heard this, says the chronicler, " he let his horse go, and drew out a good swerde, and began to scrimyshe " with them, and made a great place about hym, that it was pleasure to behold hym. " There was non that durst aproche nere hym : there were some that aproched near " hym, but, at every stroke that he gave, he cutte off outher legge, heed, or arme ; there " was none so hardy but that they feared hym. He dyde there suehe dedes of armes, " that it was marveyle to regarde ; but there were more than fourty thousand of these " unhappy people ; they shotte and cast at hym, and he was unarmed. To saye trouthe, " yf he had been of yron or stele, he must nedes have been slayne. But yet as he dyed, " he slewe xij out of hande, besyde them that he hurte. Finally, he was stryken to the " erthe, and they cutt off his armes and legges, and then strake his body all to pieces." This fearful tragedy " discomfited " the citizens, who, thereupon, sent a deputation to the Earl of Suffolk, who could afford them no aid, being himself compelled to flee to the King at St. Alban's, disguised as a servant to Sir Robert de Boys. Litester (now called King of the Commons,) had already seized Sir John Brewse, of Stanton (the Earl's brother-in-law). Lord Scales, Lord Morley, Sir Stephen Hales, and other knights and gentlemen, who were compelled to ride with the rebels through the country, and to perform such services as Litester required of them. Two of these knights, Lord Morley and Sir John Brewes, were sent with three of the rebel leaders, to treat with the King j but being met in a narrow lane, near the river at Inklingham, by Henry le Spencer, Bishop of Norwich, (who, upon hearing of the insurrection, had marched from his manor house of Burley, near Oakham, with eight lances and a few archers, and was joined on his way by the principal men of the counties,) the three rebels were seized by this warlike Prelate, who ordered their heads to be struck off, and carried on poles, which so intimidated their followers, that they fled, and he entered Norwich in triumph, being received by the citizens " with all joy and honor imaginable.'' Litester, with Ms follow- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 319 ■ers, retired to Xorth Walsh-am ; but the valiant Bishop, not intending to leave his work half done, marched against him, and on coming up to their camp (which was strongly fortified) he " took a spear in his hand, set spurs to his horse, and charged the rebels ^' with such fury that he quickly made way for his company to follow : and so having " gained the trenches, a sharp battle ensued ; but at last the commons were overcome " and forced to fly : '' and great slaughter ensued. Litester was taken and condemned ; the Bishop heard his confession, absolved him, and went with him to the gallows. He was hanged, drawn and quartered ; one quarter being sent to Yarmouth, where it was set up " as a terrour to his adherents." Page 144. — The JRehellion under Kelt. This event is briefly narrated by the elder Manship in these words, — " At whiche " tj-me begunne y* rebellion of Kette in Norfolk ; and the said Kette, with his rebelles, " made accompte to take this towne of Yermouthe for there hold and strenghte. The *' whiche the towne and townsmen wold not sufier or consent unto, but kepte the towns " for the Kinge's Maiestie, accordinge to their allegeance. And they did not onlye kepe " them out, but also Arave those rebeUes awaye, and tooke certen greate peces of ordi- " nance from them, which ordinance they had gotten at the towne of Leistofie, and " came and broughte it with them to beseege this towne of Greate Yermouthe. And " the inhabitants of Yermouthe did go fourthe to Qorleston agenste the said rebelles, " and there hurte manye and killed manye, and put the reste to flighte." This formidable outbreak was with difiioulty suppressed. Robert Kett, a tanner at Wymondham, with his brother "William, a butcher there, put themselves at the head of a vast number of " lewd and desperate persons ; " and approaching Norwich, were met by Sir Edmund Windham, High Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, who pro- claimed them rebels : nothing -daunted, however, they attempted to take him prisoner ; but, being well horsed, he broke through their ranks and escaped to Norwich, where he found the citizens in great dismay, messengers having been sent to the King, and also to Sir Roger Townshend and Sir William Paston, requesting aid. At Eaton Wood the insurgents took Sir Roger Wodehouse prisoner, and carried him and other gentle- men to Household heath, where they encamped ; and being joined by the disaffected from other places, they kept the city in a constant state of alarm. The mayor having remonstrated with them, was detained by the rebels, who desired him to render up his authority and the keys of the city, — which he resolutely refused to do. Dr. Parker {afterwards Archbishop of Canterbiiry), who was a native of Norwich and then residing there, went out and preached to them; but narrowly escaped with his life. Qq2 Digitized by Microsoft® 320 NOTES. On the edge of the hill opposite Bishopsgate bridge, and in the immediate vicinity of St. Michael's chapel (afterwards called Rett's castle,) there stood an aged oak, which ICett boarded over, and made what he termed his" Court of Justice," calling this tree " The Oak of Reformation.'' The rebels entered Norwich at their pleasure, taking the public treasure, and levy- ing contributions on the citizens. The houses of the surrounding gentry were plundered without mercy, none being able to resist, except Sir Edward Knevet, who, with his servants, set upon the night watch of the rebels at Hingham, and escaped to Buckenham castle, which was too strong for them to attack. The King's Council, thinking to appease the insurgents, sent to their camp York Herald, " apparelled in his coat of arms," to pro- claim a free pardon : but Kett persuaded the multitude to remain, and a small portion only returned to the city, with the herald, taking the mayor with them. Attempts were then made to fortify the city and keep out the rebels ; but, a few days afterwards, they forced an entrance, and imprisoned the mayor and some of the principal citizens. The King's Council finding that the rebels could only be put down by force, sent the Mar- quis of Northampton, " a courtier more skilled in leading a measure than a march,"' with 1,500 horse. Accompanied by the Lords Sheffield and Wentworth, Sir Anthony Denny, and many other knights and gentlemen, he came within a mile of Norwich, and then sent Sir Gilbert Dethiok, (Norrey and afterwards Garter,) to summon the city : whereupon Augustine Steward (the deputy mayor), with the sheriffs and chief citizens, repaired to the army and delivered the sword of the city to the Marquis, who, after " comforting them with good words," made his public entry into Norwich. That same night the insurgents made a violent assault on the city, fighting so desperately " that " when they were thrust through their bodies or thighs, or their hamstrings cut asunder, " though they were fallen down deadly wounded, — they would not give over f but, half " dead, drowned in their own and other men's blood, would, till the last gasp, strike at " their adversaries, when their hands could scarce hold their weapons." They were, however, repulsed with the loss of 300 men. The next day, whilst a parley was being held at Pookthorpe gate, the rebels broke in at the hospital meadows, when a severe fight took place in St. Martin's plain ; in which the Lord Sheffield, " desirous to show " proof of his noble courage, venturing among the thickest of his enemies, and fighting " too boldly, but not so warily as was expedient," was slain, " lamented and pitied of all " men." Emboldened by this success, the rebels entered the city in such numbers as to compel the Marquis, with his followers, to retire. ^^Tien these tidings reached the Court, orders were sent to the Earl of Warwick (then in command of the army destined for Scotland,) to march upon Norwich ; which he did, accompanied by his sons, Ambrose and Robert Dudley (afterwards respectively Earls of Warwick and Leicester), Sir Tho' Gresham, Sir Thomas Palmer, and many " knights, squu'es, and gentlemen," who all Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 321 ** tried their manhood and behaved gallantly, when time and occasion were given them." Having entered the city, the Earl drove out the rebels with considerable slaughter ; Capt. Drury, with his band of " harquebusiers," doing great execution. Being reinforced with 1,400 " switzers," the Earl marched out against the rebels ; and Sir Edmund Knevet and Sir Thomas Palmer were sent once more to offer them a free pardon, which, how- ever, they still refused. A general engagement followed which ended in the complete defeat of Kett's followers, with great slaughter. A fearful retribution followed, — the hanging of three hundred of the rebels failing to appease the spirit of revenge engendered against them ; but when it was sought to stir up the Earl to execute a greater number, he replied that " there must be a measure " kept in all things, especially in the punishment of death, we ought to beware we do " not exceed." Warwick gained great credit for the suppression of this rebellion ; and in 1551, he was advanced to the dignity of Diike of Northumberland: in the same year he was elected High Steward of Yarmouth. But a sad end awaited him : in 1553 he was attainted and beheaded, for attempting to place the crown on the head of Lady Jane Grey. " A lamentable thing," says Master Stephen Berlin, a French physician, who was present, " to see a man, beneath whom a whole kingdom had trembled, in the hands of an executioner." Sir Thomas Palmer, who had been Knight Porter of Calais, and had long followed the fortunes of the Duke, suffered at the same time. When he came to the scaffold, he " toke every man by the hand, and desired them to praye for " him ; then putting off his gowne, he leaned upon the rail " and addressed the people saying, amongst other things, " I thanke God for his mercyfuU goodenes, for he hathe " caused me to learne more in one littell darke corner in yonder tower, than ever I " learned by eny traville in so many places as I have bene." After the suppression of this rebellion. Sir Thomas Clere was paid by the town, " the money he demanded to have for his services in the time of the commotion : " and Sir Thomas Woodhouse was also paid £43 for one hundred coombs of malt, and £10 for his charges " when he came down to Yarmouth in the King's ship, in the commo- tion tyme." Page 156. — Francis ThirMe. Of this family, probably, was John Thirkle or Thurkle, thus described by Nashe in his Lenten Stuffe, — " There is a mathematical smith or artificer, in Yarmouth, that hath " made a lock and key that weigh but three farthings ; and a chest, with a pair of knit " gloves in the till thereof, whose poise is no more but a groat. Now, I do not think " but all the smiths in London, Norwich, or York, if they heard of him, would envy " him, if they could not outwork him." Digitized by Microsoft® 322 NOTES. Page 158. — Disputes tcith Loihingland. About the year 1047, Lothen, the Dane, it is said, entered the southern mouth of the great estuary on this coast, and gave his name to the district. Lothingland, in Domesday, is styled Ludingaland ; at a period less remote it has been called Lovingland, and the half hundred of Mutford, adjoining, Ludinga or LutMnga. In Domesday, also, the town of Lowestoft appears as Lothen-toistof, ■whence it is inferred that Lothen esta- blished a station there, for the reception of such of his wandering countrymen as might chance to land on the extreme eastern point of England, — its name, Lotheries Oisthofe being interpreted to mean " Lothen's Guest House," or " Strangers' Hall." Henry III. gave the manor of Lothingland, with the fee-farm rent of Yarmouth, to Devorgill, the wife of Lord John de Baliol, as some compensation for the loss of her share of the possessions of her uncle, John, Earl of Chester and Huntingdon, of whose lands, on the Earl's death, without issue, the King had taken possession, by virtue of a royal prerogative attached to the Earldom, " lest so fair a dominion should be divided among women." On the death of Lady Devorgill, these possessions descended to her son, John de Baliol, King of Scotland, and became forfeited to the Crown of England upon his renouncing his homage to Edward I. ; who, in 1305, bestowed them on his nephew, John de Britainy, Earl of Richmond, son of John, Duke of Britainy. As the Earl could derive no more than the amount of the fee-farm rent from Yarmouth, it was to his advantage to encourage the landing of goods at Gorleston, where he could take custom. This was persisted in with great pertinacity : and Swinden gives numerous extracts from legal proceedings of the time, to show that the men of Gorleston and Southtown, in defiance of the King's repeated proclamations, committed continual riots, by detaining vessels, levying distresses, and taking customs at Gorleston ; not stopping even at murder : and although in returns to the writs issued against the oifenders, it was declared that numbers could not be found, and others were untruly reported dead, yet at last many were taken and committed to the Marshalsea. As the bailiffs of Yar- mouth were parties to these " grievous and notorious dissentions," the King's writ was directed to the Coroners of the town, requiring them to return the indictments ; their office giving them a ministerial as well as a judicial power. The inquisition taken before Martin de Pateshall, very clearly sets forth the case on both sides. It appears that Roger Fitz-Osbert, the then " Warden of the Lord the King's manor of Lothingland," claimed such customs as (he said) were enjoyed by Earl Warren, " who had the land of Lothingland, before him, to farm." As to a market which he was accused of erecting, he alleged it was an old market in the Earl's time, and that " before the times of that Earl, the market was always on the Lord's day (per diem Dominieum} but by that Earl was removed to Thursday ; " and in respect of vessels riding within Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 323 the haven, he asserted that " if any ship be anchored on the Lothingland side, so that " a Serjeant or officer can reach it with his rod, which is of a reasonable length, that is " of an ell and an half, to the ship from dry land, and the wares be sold in the ship, they " of Luthingland shall have the customs, except the ship be freighted with iron, wine, " &c.," — and if they could not reach the ship with such rod, then the customs were pay- able to Yarmouth. Ultimately Yarmouth prevailed, and the men of Gorleston consoled themselves with the foUoy/ing prophetical rhjines, — ■ " ®otle0ton toas ffiorlesiton ete ^atmoutTj iegun, " ann toill ie ©otlesiton taljett ^armoutj ie gone 5 " " ©oj:le0tott, ®teat tntll one Bag tie, " Sarmotttl) ImrteD in tie Sea j " A MS. history of Gorleston, written circa 1600, giving a full account of their dis- putes, was deposited in the hutch at Yarmouth, but has since disappeared ; another copy was placed in the " iron-bound chest " of Gorleston church, and was abstracted by a churchwarden about the year 1792; a third copy was in the Bishop's register office at Norwich. There was also a MS., entitled HccorDS of je ^otone of ®orlesltone, which belonged to Sir John Castleton, Bart., when Vicar of Gorleston, in 1722, and afterwards belonged to Samuel Killett, Esq. It is worthy of remark, that these ancient accounts all mention the " guld-stone," portions of which continue to be ploughed up in the " great stone close." Paffe 158. — Sir Henry Jernegan, The extensive possessions, in Lothingland, of the ancient family of Fitz-Osbert, (whose chief seat was at Somerleyton) passed to the equally ancient family of Jernegan, or, in modem orthography, Jerningham, by the marriage of Sir "Walter Jernegan with the daughter and heiress of Sir Peter Fitz-Osbert. Sir Henry Jernegan was residing at Somerleyton upon the death of Edward VI., and immediately exerted himself in favor of the Princess Mary, who was then living at Hoveton, near Norwich, but who removed to KenninghaU, where she was joined by Sir William Drury, Sir John Shelton, Sir Henry Bedingfield, " Master Henry Jerningham, and divers others ; " whereupon, the Council of Lady Jane Grey determined to send their forces against her ; and " persuaded the Duke of Northumberland to take that " voyage upon him, — saying, that no man was so fit therefor, because that he had '.' atchieved the victory in Norfolk once already, [by the suppression of Kett's rebellion] " and was, therefore, so feared, that none durst once lift up their weapon against him : Digitized by Microsoft® 324 NOTES. " besides that, he was the best man of warre in the realme, as well for the ordering of " his campes and souldiers, both in battell and in their tents, as also by experience, " knowledge, and wisdome he could animate his army with witty perswasions, and also " paoifie and alay his enemies pride with stout courage, or else to disswade them, if nede " were, from ther enterprise. ' Well, (quoth the Duke then,) since ye thinke it good, I " ' and mine will goe, not doubting of your fidelity to the Queues Majestie, which I " 'leave in your custodie.' So that night hee sent for both Lords, Knights, and others, " that should go with him, and caused all things to be prepared accordingly." The same writer adds that, " About this tj-me the vj shippes that were sent to lie before " Yermouthe, (that if she had fled to have taken her,) were, by force of wether, driven " into the haven, wher about that quarters one Maister Jerningham was raysing power " on Queue Marye's behaUe, and hearing thereof, came thether : whereupon, the cap- " taynes took a boat and went to their shipes. Then the marynours axed Maister " Jerningham what he wolde have, and wether he wold have their captaynes or no. " And he said, ' Yea, mary ! ' Said they, ' Ye shall have them, or els we shaU throwe " ' them to the bottom of the sea.' The captaynes, seeing this perplexity, said fourth- " with they wolde serve Queue Mary gladlie ; and so came fourthe with their men, and " convayed certeyn great ordnance : of the which comyng in of the shipes, the Lady " Mary and hir company were wonderfully joyous, and then afterwards doubted smaly " the Duke's puissance. And as the comyng of the shipes moche lejoyced Queue " Mary's party, even so was it a great hart-sore to the Duke and all his campe ; " for " after once the submyssyon of the shipes was knowne, eche man than began to pluck " in his homes ; '' and although the Duke " writ somewhat sharplie to the Counsayll in " that behalfe, as well for lack of men as munytion, but a slender answer he had agyn.'' The above account (which is closely followed by Stowe,) was written by a resident in the Tower of London ; and has been published by the Camden Society. " The Lady Mary " had sent to Yarmouth to be proclaimed : whereupon, at an assembly held on the ninth of July, 1553, it was ordered that "Mr. Bailiff Echard, " Simon Moore, and WilKam Garton shall ride immediately unto my Lady Mary's " Grace, to Kennyngayte, to know Her Grace's pleasure concerning the letter sent this " night, signed with her hand ; '' and the corporation agreed to meet at eleven o'clock the following day, " to take order about the proclamation." They were then still in doubt what to do, for Mr. William Fenn and others were requested " to ride immedi- " ately to Norwich, to know their advice and counsel about the proclamation, and that " it be delayed till their return." On the following day, Mr. Thomas Hunt and Mr. George CasteU were sent "to the Queen's Grace, with certain instructions to be declared to Her Grace's Counsel : " and copies of the Queen's letter were sent to Mr. Gunwyle, at Gorleston, and to Sir William Paston, at Caister. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 325 From Kenningliall, Queen Mary proceeded to Framlingham castle, where she was joined by a large force, and marched to London in triumph. For their services at Framlingham, Sir William Drury received an annuity of one hundred marks, and Sir Richard Southwell a gratuity of £100 : but Sir Henry Jerning- ham, for his important services at Yarmouth, was made Master of the Horse, Captain of the Queen's Guard, and Keeper of the Royal Palace of Eltham ; he obtained also the manor and park of Costessey, near Norwich, where he built the present hall, in which he afterwards entertained Queen Elizabeth, and which continues to be the principal seat of this noble family, now represented by Baron Stafford. Until the issue of the contest, the local authorities of Yarmouth were placed in an embarrassing position ; especially those who had taken part in the sale of church goods, and in despoiling the monasteries ; and there were some, by whom their conduct in supporting Queen Mary, was not approved; for Robert Steyers was committed to prison for saying to the justices, " By Godd's sowle, you rewle here nowe as ye lyst, — ye knowe not howe long ye shall ; " and that, " The Duke of Northumberland was as " good a man at y° last comyng downe, as he ware when he came downe att the " comoshion agaynst Kett ; " and further (alluding, probably, to some domestic dis- agreement,) he " then and there said to Simon Moore, one of the justices, in the open " face of the coui-t, that ' If woman's staffe had holden, thou haddest not ben here now " to have told no talys.' " Robert March was placed in the pillory, for " scandalizing " Sir Thomas Woodhouse, by saying that, upon going to Waxham to seek a colt, he " saw there Sir Thomas Woodhouse, Sir William Butts, and xiiij or xv gentibnen, among " whom were iii or iiij in velvet coats ; " and upon that occasion, Sir Thomas said to him, " 'Ah ! ye are joly fellowes, ye make bonefires and ryng y' bells, and thou art the man '' ' that sondest them ; ' adding, ' Ye had commandment to take yo' bells down, and who " ' gave you commandment to hange them up ageyn ?'" To which March having an- swered that " they were never commanded to take them down but by a traytor, — Sir " Thomas exclaimed, ' What ! a traytor ; a traytor ! Well, well, I doubt nott but within " ' this monyth, to see xx such traitor knaves as thou arte, hanged ! ' " "S^Tien Mary was firmly seated on the throne, the corporation proposed to return to the unreformed rites of the church : and at an assembly held December the first, 1553, it was agreed that Mr. Tanfield and Mr. Sonde, the churchwardens, should " prepare all such things as pertain to the mass," Fage 162. — Judgment is given in favour of Yarmouth. The narrative exhibits the tortuous course of justice in those days, when, to the great vexation of the suitors, the courts of Chancery and King's Bench followed the Br Digitized by Microsoft® 326 NOTES. person of the Sovereign and his Court, — then constantly migrating from one part of the kingdom to the other ; the festivals of Easter, Pentecost, and Christmas, being usually kept at different places. In the present case, the burgesses of Yarmouth had, in turn, to appear at Westminster, Leicester, Northampton, York, Winchester, Salisbury, and Norwich, before judgment could be obtained ; although, it must be admitted, justice appears to have been ultimately rendered, notwithstanding the personal influence the King's nephew may be supposed to have had. The Chancellor who decided this cause, was John de Stratford, Bishop of Win- chester, (afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury,) to whom we owe the first establishment of stationary courts. His visit to Yarmouth is noticed in the following entry from the Borough Roll of the same year, — "PatB to the Lord Chancellor, and other the King's " Justices, the time they were at Great Yarmouth, by order of John Perebrown, " £1 2s. 6(?.j and, at the same time, paid 13s. 4rf. for bread for them." Formerly the Chancellor exercised a criminal jurisdiction, as he appears to have done, on this occasion, at Yarmouth. Fage 166. — Sir Christopher Hey don and Sir William Butts, The Heydons were a very ancient family, first seated at Heydon, and afterwards at Baconsthorp, in Norfolk. There was a " saying " in that county, that " there never was a Paston poor, a Heydon a coward, or a Cornwallis a fool." This Sir Christopher was the grandson and heir of Sir John Heydon, who was created a Knight of the Bath at the coronation of Henry VIII. He was greatly esteemed for his justness, hospitality, charity, and many other good qualities. He was High Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk in 1556 and 1569: he died in 1577. His grandson, Sir Christopher Heydon, was knighted by the Earl of Essex, at the sacking of Cadiz in 1596. Another grandson. Sir John, was known as " Heydon with the one hand," he having lost one in a rencontre with Sir R. Mansel, at Rackheath, near Norwich, in 1600 : and in the Canterbury Museum may yet be seen a withered hand, said to have been that of the young Norfolk knight. A very curious account of this duel is given in the Gentleman's Magazine, May, 1853. Sir John Townshend, the second of Sir John Heydon on the occasion referred to, was soon after killed in a duel with Sir Matthew Brown. They met on Hounslow Heath, and both fell mortally wounded. In 1614, the bailiffs of Yarmouth received a warrant from Sir James Calthorpe, Knight, Sheriff of Norfolk, commanding them to assist him with armed men, to give seizin of certain houses and land at Baconsthorp, against Sir Christopher Heydon ; which mandate they disregarded. Sir William Bdtts was the eldest son of Sir William Butts, principal physician to Henry VIII., who had bestowed on him the manors of Ryburgh, Thornage, Binham Priory, and other possessions in Norfolk. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 327 Blomefield says that he was slain at the battle of Mussleburgh ; but this could not be, as he " had unto him given, by way of increase, for his worthy and valiant service " in that battle, — a canton, being per pale argent and. azure, two lion's gambes erased in saltire, gules, armed or, placed on the sinister over his arms, which were azure on a chevron between three etoiles or, as many lozenges gules : his motto was " ^ojeg ^age et ^jinplj." He was High Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk in 1563, and died without issue in 1583. Ann, his niece, (ultimately the heiress of the Butts family,) married Sir Nicholas Eacon, who was knighted at Norwich, by Queen Elizabeth, in 1578, and was afterwards created the first baronet of England. By this marriage he acquired the manor of Thornage, which continued in the Bacon family until sold in 1710, to Sir Jacob Astley, Bart., ancestor of the present Baron Hastings, of Melton Constable. Page 168. — The Lords of Caister. The family of Bardolp had been possessed of baronial ranli by tenure of the lordship of Bradwell, Suffolk, from the reign of Henry H. ; and that of Wormegay, in Norfolk, (with twenty knights' fees attached) which had been acquired by the marriage of Dodo Bardolf with Beatrix, daughter and heiress of William de Warren. His grandson, William, Lord Bardolf, married Juliana, daughter and heiress of Hugh de Goumey (whose ancestor, a noble lord of Normandy, accompanied King William the Conqueror into England) and by her acquired the Lordship of Caister, which had been conferred on the Gourneys by King WiUiam, or by his son Henry I. Sir Hugh Bar- dolf, their son, was born in 1255 : and in 1294, he was summoned to attend a great Council on the affairs of the realm ; and afterwards went with the King into Gascony. In 1300, he accompanied Edward L to Scotland; and served in the division of his army led by the Earl of Leicester. He had a grant of free warren and assize, with wreck of the sea at Caister; and at his death, in 1320, he was found to hold this lordship in capite as part of the barony of Goumey. John, Lord Bardolf, was one of the Commis- sioners of Array for the County of Norfolk, previous to the expedition of Edward HI. into Britanny ; he was also at the " winning of Calais," and probably for this service his shield of arms was placed in the ceiling of Yarmouth church, where it still remains. These possessions were retained by this family till 1404, when Thomas, Lord Bardolf, was attainted and beheaded. His brother. Sir William Bardolf, obtained his estates ; but dying without issue, in 1423, his widow released this lordship to the at- tainted Lord's daughters, Anne and Joan ; the former of whom married Sir William Clifford, (Chamberlain to Henry VI.) who had the honour of Wormegay granted to him, with the title of Lord Bardolf; and Joan became the wife of Sir William Phelp, Knt., Grand Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. By the marriage of an only child, Br 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 328 NOTES. the lordship was carried to John, Lord Viscount Beaumont ; whose son and heir was attainted as a rebel to Edward IV. It was then regranted to his wife, (daughter of Humphrey Stafford, Duke of Buckingham) for life ; but upon the death of her son William, Lord Viscount Beaumont, it again reverted to the Crown. In 1554, Henry VIII., for the sum of £207, paid to him by " his faithful counsellor. Sir William Paston," with £9 11«. 8d. paid into the hands of the treasurer of the Court of Augmentations, made him a grant of this manor, with others. The Pastons were, from a very early period, seated at Paston, in Norfolk. The public have become acquainted with this family by the curious and interesting collec- tion of lettersjwritten in the fifteenth century, and published by Sir J. Fenn, in 1787. Sir William Paston was steward of all the courts of Richard Courtnaye, Bishop of Nor- wich, who, in 1413, granted him " a livery out of his wardrobe of woollen cloth and fur, such as the other peers or nobles of his retinue received yearly." He was made a Judge of the Common Pleas, by Henry VI., with " two robes more than the ordinary fees of the Judges, as a mark of his favor." Notwithstanding his acquiring the appellation of " the good judge," a petition was presented to parliament, accusing him of taking " di- vers fees and rewards of divers persons within the shires of Norfolk and Suifolk ; " and at the head of the list is " of the town of Yarmouth Is. yearly." The petition was dis- missed; the payments taken were, probably, retainer fees, which he continued to receive after his elevation to the bench. John Paston, his son, (who married Margaret, daughter and heiress of Sir John de Mauteby, by Margaret, daughter of John Berney, Esq., of Reedham,) was the heir of Sir John Fastolfe : but his estates being seized, he died in the Fleet Prison in 1466. He left a son. Sir John Paston, celebrated for his bravery whilst serving in the wars with France : and by him the estates were recovered, upon the death of the Duke of Norfolk. Sir William Paston, Knt, great grandson of the above-named Judge, was born in 1528 ; and was noted for his great hospitality. He died in 1610, aged eighty-two years, and was buried at North Walsham. His armorial bearings, painted on a panel, still hang in Yarmouth church, with this inscription, — "J&iS armes sitano ^ere, tnljose iaotkg of c^aritp " ®!)sH speafee Jts praige, tjaitg^ ^e in Dugt not^ Jj : " ^ongst manj mote gooti ueeBg ti)nt l&e ^atlj none, " ^armotttl) not^ IfenoiBleDge iijis for to ie one, " ®i)at l)e gaiie to t^tix poor etgljt pounog a jeate ; " jFot eijcr to continue, ag it Ootid appeste." This donation was charged on his rectory at Caister ; and the town had a suit for its recovery. It is still paid by the Incumbent Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 329 His son and successor was created Baron Paston and Viscount Yarmouth in 1 673, and Earl of Yarmouth in 1679. He was shot in his coach, in 1676, but not mortally ; surviving until 1682, when he died, and was buried at Oxnead. William Paston, second Earl of Yarmouth, is accused of having greatly encumbered his inheritance : and dying, in 1732, without male issue, his titles became extinct. All his estates were sold, the principal purchaser being Lord Anson, the circumnavigator. The funeral sermon on this last heir male of the Pastons, was preached by John Hildeyard, D.L.L., rector of Cawston, and published at Norwich in 1683 : it is dedicated to the " Truly Vertuous and Regularly Pious Lady, the Lady Sebecca, Countess Dowager of Yarmouth." After the custom of that age, we find every- virtue under heaven attri- buted to the deceased, " but," says the preacher, " he had his infirmities ; yet let not that customary sin, contracted in his younger time, of swearing, be his reproach," for we are told he " lived like a Gentleman, — a True and Loyal Protestant, — a sound Member of the Church of England, — and His Death was a Civil, Easie, and Well-Natured Death.'' The Earl, by his first wife, Lady Charlotte Boyle, (a natural daughter of Charles II.,) left two daughters, — one married to Thomas Hyrne, Esq., of Haverland, and the other to Sir John Holland, Bart., of Quiddenham. The Norfolk and Norwich Archseological Society, has published a paper, ably drawn up by Francis Worship, Esq., containing an account of the genealogy of the Paston family, from a valuable MS., compiled, in 1674, by Francis Sandford, Kouge Dragon, in the possession of His Grace the Duke of Newcastle. Page 169. — Great Rage of the Sea. Destructive as storms have been on this coast, the inhabitants are indebted to one for their preservation from a greater calamity. In 1199, a civil war raging between King John and his barons, that Monarch sought the aid of Sir Hugh de Boves, a French knight of some renown ; to whom, in consideration of his intended services, the King granted the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk. The knight assembled a formidable body of men, and they, designing to expel the inhabitants of these expected possessions, brought over their wives and children with them ; but being driven by a violent storm upon the coast of Suffolk, the whole perished. The bodies of Hugh, and a multitude of his followers, were thrown on shore at Yarmouth j and so infected the air as to cause a sickness among the inhabitants, whereof many died. Roger of Wendover says, that in- numerable infants were washed on shore in their cradles. In 1251, upon Christmas eve, there was a great tempest throughout Norfolk and Suffolk, " to the great wonder and astonishment of the people." Digitized by Microsoft® 330 NOTES. William of Worcester records an inundation of the sea at Yarmouth, in 1 287, which filled St. Nicholas' church to the height of four feet : this was before the town walls were built. On the nineteenth of October, 1353 (being Sunday) there was an exceeding great rain and high wind,— so violent, that the passage boat from Yarmouth to NorM'ich, was sunk near Cantley ; and out of forty persons in her, only two escaped. In 1361, there was " a prodigious wind, which blew vehemently from the south- west," and did much damage. The tower of Norwich cathedral and a part of the choir were blown down. In 1530, there arose a storm " as if from heU," which prevailed all over England: and was especially destructive on the Norfolk coast. It was noted as occurring on the day Cardinal Wolsey was seized with a fatal illness ; and the storra remained unabated till his death a few days afterwards. This superstition regarding storms, prevailed for a long period : it was remarked at the death of the Lord Protector in 1658, that a high wind arose, causing great damage. In 1554, this town must have been visited by a most terrible storm, as we find the following entry in the assembly books, — "Agreed, that all such boats as be cast aground " between Yarmouth and Weybridge, Haidley cross and St. Olave's bridge, being within " the liberty of this town, be brought to the quays, to the intent to know the owners." In 1570, there was " a great rage of water," which did incredible damage at Yar- mouth, Dunwich, Wisbech, and Lynn. It was known as " the Candlemas flood," and is chronicled by Holingshed. In 1608, the sea broke over the low shore by Horsey gap, and overflowed the country for many miles, " drowning much hard grounds and many thousand acres of marsh ; " for the recovery of which, and for the prevention of like evils, an act of pai-- liament was passed for the repair of sea breaches. In 1615, however, the sea is said to have flowed twelve miles inland, and the city of Norwich was flooded. In 1612, great damage was done to the piers by a raging tide : and the ground near the north pier was washed away, to an extent of 40 feet, and 6 feet in depth. Similar disastrous tides and storms occurred in 1623 and 1650. In 1682, the Gloucester yacht was wrecked on the Lemon and Ower sand ; and many persons of distinction perished. The Duke of York (afterwards James II.,) and his attendant. Colonel Churchill (afterwards Duke of Marlborough), escaped with a few others. In 1692, a fleet of 200 colliers left Yarmouth roads for the north, but were suddenly overtaken by a violent gale : they endeavoured to return, but no less than 140 of their number were driven on shore and wrecked; and upwards of 1,000 sailors are computed to have perished in that terriffic night. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 331 In 1712, a wherrywas sunk on Breydon during a storm, and 20 persons were drowned. In 1717, great damage was done to the piers by a " large tide." In July, 1730, a remarkable storm and tempest arose, during which there fell hail- stones of prodigious magnitude. On Christmas eye, 1739, there was a violent gale of wind, and 16 vessels were stranded between Yarmouth and Lowestoft : all on board were lost. Another storm happened in December, 1757, in which 22 vessels (the greater part of which were lost) were driven on shore between .Yarmouth and Kessingland. In 1767, a gale of wind, with a high tide, carried away 100 feet of the jetty. In 1770, a dreadful storm arose: at one time 18 vessels were seen on the sands, and many others foundered. In all 30 vessels are supposed to have been lost, with at least 200 men. During the night of the thirtieth of October, 1 789, a disastrous storm committed great havoc among the shipping, along the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk. The scene at Yarmouth on the following morning, we learn from a local paper published at the time, was most distressing, — wrecks were floating about — ships dismasted and without canvas — and 10 sail were on shore. Between Southwold and Yarmouth (an extent of 25 miles) no less than 40 vessels were ashore ; whilst within a compass of 30 miles to the north, as far as Cromer, 80 fishing boats alone were lost, and 120 dead bodies cast on shore. In 1791, the jetty was carried away, and a great part of the denes laid under water, by a high tide ; which also overflowed Southtown road, so that boats could ply thereon. One of the most memorable shipwrecks in the vicinity of Yarmouth, was that of the Invincible, 74, bearing the flag of Rear- Admiral Tottie. She sailed from Yarmouth roads March lO"*, 1801, to join the fleet of Sir Hyde Parker, in the Baltic ; but whilst going out of Happisburgh gatway, she struck upon a shoal called Hammond's Knowl, and afterwards moving into deep water, went down, when Captain Rennie and 400 men on board perished. In November of the same year, as appears by the following extract from Dibdin's Tour, further disasters occurred, — he says, " Coming from HuU to Yarmouth by sea, I " counted the shattered masts and rigging of 14 vessels, the hulls of which were buried " in the sands.'' In 1805, there was a great storm, accompanied by a raging tide, which nearly de- stroyed the jetty. In February, 1807, during a heavy gale, 144 dead bodies were washed on shore in the immediate vicinity of Yarmouth. The Hunter, revenue cutter, Capt. Jay, was lost, with all hands. In January, 1 808, during a heavy gale and snow-storm, the tide rose to an alarming heighth ; the Southtown road was overflowed, and boats were rowed over it. A West Digitized by Microsoft® 332 NOTES. Indiaman came on shore near the jetty ; and many vessels were lost at Happlshurgh and Winterton. In the foUo-wing year, also, there was a destructive storm, attended with further losses on the coast. A tremendous gale from the S.E., on the night of the 26"" of October, 1812, did great damage along the coast. Five vessels were driven on shore between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, three between Yarmouth and Caister, whilst others foundered at sea. In 1816, this coast was visited by a severe storm, and the Royal Escape struck on the Barnard sand, and was brought into Yarmouth harbour. She was a government hoy, with horses for the Duke of Cambridge, then Governor of Hanover. In 1819, another high tide did much damage. In a sudden storm on the night of the 17* of October, 1822, the Ranger, revenue cutter, was lost off Happisburgh sand, and Capt. Sayers and all his crew perished. In 1825, the river overflowed the quays, and, entering the houses and stores, de- stroyed much property. In 1836, there was a great storm ; and 23 vessels were stranded on Yarmouth beach, and upwards of 40 were lost on the coast. The frequency of these occurrences led to the establishment of several companies of men, who keep a constant watch from their lofty " look-outs," and are ever readyi when a signal is given, to put oif to the assistance of vessels in distress. Many gallant acts of daring and endurance have been recorded of these men. One of the most remarkable occurred on the 6* October, 1835, when a Spanish vessel having been observed about twelve miles to the eastward, with a signal flying, a large yawl was launched from the beach, and with ten men proceeded to her. After putting four men on board the Spaniard, to assist at the pumps, the yawl returned towards the shore with a fresh breeze from the W.S.W. ; but a terriffic squall suddenly springing up from the northward, the yawl's sails were taken aback, and the ballast shifted, — the boat was thus in an instant upset. Of her crew only one man, named Samuel Brock, survived to re- late the sad catastrophe. The accident occurred about six o'clock in the evening, the nearest land being distant about six miles, but, owing to the flood tide setting towards the southward, a much greater distance had to be traversed before the shore could be reached. Brock, with great presence of mind, undismayed by the death cries of his companions, took a knife from his pocket, cut the waistbands of his cumbersome " pet- ticoat trousers," and struck out for life. He was driven by the swell of the sea over the Cross Sand ridge, and at length reached the buoy of St. Nicholas' gat, having then been five hours in the water : but fearing the efiects of the night air, if he were to rest by it, he boldly swam on, followed by a flock of sea-gulls, who had marked him for their prey. After some time, being once more driven over the sands into smoother water, he made himself heard by the crew of a brig riding in Corton roads, and was taken on board by them at about one o'clock in the morning, having been in the water for seven hours. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 333 This melancholy accident having awakened public sympathy, a large sum was raised by subscription for the widows and children of the drowned men. Brock (who nobly refused to take any portion of this fund,) is still living, and follows his avocations on Yarmouth beach. Another painful instance of the fearlessness of these boatmen occurred on Sunday, January 26*, 1 8i5, during a heavy gale from the N.W., when five vessels were discovered upon the sands. The yawl Phmnix, having safely landed the crew of one of these ves- sels, was again launched to the assistance of a second, and having reached the wreck, the yawl was dashed to pieces against its sides, leaving the unfortunate crew (13 in number) clinging to the vessel. From this perilous position many were drowned, and six only were eventually rescued by the life-boat. In this case also, a subscription which produced £2,012 8«. Td., was made for the families of the sufferers. The total number of wrecks of British and Foreign vessels on the coast and in the seas of the United Kingdom, in 1850, was 681, by which 780 lives were lost, — being about the annual average. Of these wrecks 240 occurred on the East coast of Great Britain, 60 on the South coast, and 190 on the West coast. Of those on the East coast, upwards of forty were on upon the coasts of Norfolk and Suffolk. The appalling shipwrecks so frequently witnessed on this coast, naturally induced the strongest desire among those on shore, to provide other means in such cases for the preservation of human life : for it frequently happened, that notwithstanding all the efforts that could be made, the violence of the sea rendered it impossible to launch an ordinary boat to the rescue of a shipwrecked crew. It was not until towards the close of the eighteenth century, that the possibility of constructing a vessel, able to encounter any sea, was first conceived ; and many years elapsed before Life-Boats were brought into use. Yarmouth was one of the first places at which they were established. In consequence of several accidents which had happened to life-boats, more espe- cially the lamentable loss of the Shields' life-boat in 1849, when 20 of the best pilots out of the Tyne were drowned, the Duke of Northumberland, in 1850, offered a prize of 100 guineas for the best model of a life-boat. The premium was awarded to Mr. James Beeching, of Yarmouth : Mr. William Teasdel, of Gorleston, (who had justly obtained great celebrity as a builder of life-boats,) was the third on the list of competitors. On the 18"" of February, 1807, H.M. gun-brig Snipe, during a dreadful gale, ran on shore near the haven's mouth, when, after many unavailing efforts to obtain a com- munication with her, 67 persons were seen to perish within fifty yards of the shore. Capt. G. W. Manbt was at that time barrack master at Yarmouth, and this fearful occurrence having forcibly drawn his attention to the possibility of gaining a communi- cation, by projecting a line over a stranded vessel, by attaching it to a shot fired from a mortar oji the shore, — he, after jijany experiments, brought his plan into successful ss Digitized by Microsoft® 334 NOTES. operation on tlie 12"" February, 1808 j when a communication being thereby effected with the brig Elizabeth, of Plymouth, stranded at a distance of 150 yards from Yarmouth beach, a boat was hauled off by the aid of the rope, and seven lives were saved. For this service, Capt. Manby was awarded a medal by the Society of Arts ; being the first of a series of honors received by him from almost every country in Europe. His plans having been exhibited in London, Capt. Manby was commissioned by government to visit various parts of the coast of Great Britain, for the purpose of superintending the appli- cation of them ; and after an investigation by a parliamentary committee, he was rewarded by a public grant. Many improvements upon this plan have, from time to time been made ; and its usefulness has been considerably increased by the admirable invention of the cot or basket traversing a rope attached to the mast-head of the stranded vessel, by means of which the crew can be drawn, one by one, to the shore. At the advanced age of eighty-eight, Capt. Manby has the satisfaction of knowing that he has been instrumental in saving upwards of 1,000 lives in various parts of the world : and of these, it is deserving of record, no less than 91 have been rescued within the last thu'ty-two years, by means of the mortar, mainly through the intrepidity of Mr. Brightin Silvers, a tide surveyor at Yarmouth. Mr. Dufiield Offord, of Yarmouth, has invented a grapnel shot, containing moveable flukes, which expand in the transit of the shot to its destination, thus forming an anchor which buries itself in the bottom of the sea, on the other side of a vessel needing assist- ance ; and by means of a line attached, boats can be hauled off the beach through the surf. Among other appliances for preservation from drowning, a Life Buoy, invented by Cap' Kisbee, R.N., when in the coast-guard service at Yarmouth, is now extensively used. An improved method of lowerimg boats from vessels (the want of which has led to so many terrible disasters,) has been lately invented and patented by William Stirling Lacon, Esq. of Yarmouth. Page 110.— The Men of Lmoestoft, The contests between the men of Lowestoft and Yarmouth, were carried on with great animosity and perseverance, and extended over a period of upwards of three centuries. They are interesting, apart from their local importance, as illustrating the constitutional history of our country. Early in the 14"' century, the north channel (or Grubb's haven) being blocked up, and no artificial means adopted to preserve the entrance of the south channel into the sea, the latter also became much choaked up by sand ; and the pent-up waters, after running about four miles southward of the present harbour, discharged themselves into Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 335 the sea, near a village called Newton — since then entirely engulphed. The great length of this channel, and numerous shoals, rendered its navigation tedious and dangerous ; and at length that entrance, also, hecame so much obstructed, that vessels were unable to enter the river, and were compelled to deliver their cargoes in the open sea at Kirkley road, some little distance to the south, whence they were conveyed in boats to Yarmouth. This was not only a great hinderanee to commerce, but the King's customs and the dues payable to the town, were evaded ; for we find, in 1368, John Lawes was hanged for exporting seven sacks of wool from Kirkley roads, without paying custom. To remedy these evils, the bm-gesses petitioned Edward III. to unite Kirkley road to Yarmouth : and in 1369, he issued a Commission, ad quod damnum. Upon an Inquisition held in Suffolk, the jury found that it would not be to the damage of the King or others to make the grant j a similar verdict being also returned at a second Inquisition held in Norfolk. Some opposition was probably made, for it was not till 1371 that the King granted a charter, uniting Kirkley road to Yarmouth, with the right of taking customs there : and also directing that no ship or boat should be laden or unladen at any other place on the sea coast within " seven leuks " of Yarmouth (unless by the owner,) and that in the time of the fishing, no fair for herrings or merchandize should he held within that distance, upon pain of forfeiture of ships and goods : for these privileges, the burgesses were to pay to the crown £5 annually. This charter excited much dissatisfaction among the men of Lowestoft, who reaped great advantages from vessels discharging near their town without paying customs to Yarmouth, and also (having then few boats of their own,) from freely buying herrings in Kirkley road of the foreign and western fishermen. Many disputes ensued ; and William Laoey and fifteen other men of Lowestoft, were indicted for not complying with the charter. They removed the proceedings into the Court of King's Bench, but were ultimately convicted, fined, and discharged. In 1376, the inhabitants of Lowestoft sent a petition to parliament, praying for a repeal of this grant, which they alleged was " contrary to the common profit of the kingdom ; '' upon which the King, with the assent of parliament, revoked and made void his former charter. Edward III. dying soon after, the burgesses of Yarmouth made suit to Richard II., and obtained another writ ad quod damnum, and Inquisitions were thereupon held at Yarmouth and Lowestoft : when, the importance of the town as a place of defence, and the badness of the harbour, having been proved, the jury found, " that if the place afores* " were not so, in the manner afores"*, annexed and united, it would very probably be to " the ruin and enervation of the town of Great Yarmouth ; " and the return of the Commissioners was, that " although the uniting Kirkley road to Yarm° was to the " damage of Lowestoft, the same was more commodious than discommodious to the ss2 Digitized by Microsoft® 336 NOTES. " King and his people." Upon this an act was passed, in 1378, by -which Kirkley road vas re-annexed to Yarmouth, and a charter^was granted confirming the same : but when the Sheriff attempted to proclaim this charter at Lowestoft, a riot ensued, and WiUiam Lacey and many others " violently resisted and hindered him," using " dangerous and reproachful words," and threatened if he dared come again, he should not escape ; so that, " for fear of death, he durst not execute the writ, and they drove him, then and " there, with a great multitude of rioters, with hue and cry, out of the town, casting " stones at the heads of his men and servants : " for this many of them were indicted. The inhabitants of Lowestoft, however, endeavoured to maintain their cause in a more legal way : they petitioned parliament, setting forth that the grant of such privileges to Yarmouth was contrary to the law of the land, which permitted every subject to buy and sell where he pleased, throughout the kingdom, and that any charters made to the contrary, were nuU and void. Upon this, a Commission issued, in 1381, directed to Sir Robert Trisilian, Lord Chief Justice of England, (afterwards hanged, as the adviser of many illegal acts,) and to other great men, who came to view the place, and having held inquisitions, made a return to parliament ; upon which, an act was passed repealing the former grants, annulling the charter, and declaring that such powers should never be granted again. Notwithstanding this, the burgesses of Yarmouth petitioned to have their privileges restored : and in 1382, Richard II. came in person to Yarmouth, and " lykjTige verye " well thereof, did graunte them such privileges as before that tyme had ben by himself "revoked, uppon the slanderous report of the men of Leistofte." This grant only continued until the meeting of parliament in the following year, when it was abro- gated, and the former act declared to be in force. The burgesses of Yarmouth, how- ever, persevered in their appeals to parliament, until an act was passed in their favor ; and Richard II. granted another charter, which has never been repealed, reciting therein all former charters, confirmations, repeals, and re-grants, in regular succession, and finally uniting Kirkley road to Great Yarmouth. From this time the town collected the same customs and dues in Kirkley road as at Yarmouth, sometimes by their Water- bailiff and at others by farmers, who were called " bailiffs of Kirkley road ; " and to avoid inconvenience, these customs were frequently farmed by the men of Lowestoft. Disputes, as to the buying and selling of herrings, having, however, arisen, a suit in Chancery followed, which was settled by " an accord " made on a reference, and con- firmed in 1401, by the King: after which, the free fair was usually proclaimed in Kirkley road as in other places within the borough. Fresh difiiculties and contentions were, however, of frequent occurrence, down to the year 1595, when they were brought to an issue by the burgesses attempting to extend their privileges still further, by in- sisting that the word " kuJcs " in the charter of Edward III., meant leagues, not miks,' Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 337 ■which should be measured in a straight line by sea, commencing from the haven's mouth, instead of in an indirect manner by land ; an* that Kirkley road meant the sea opposite to the village of that name, south of Lowestoft : the men of Lowestoft as strenuously asserting that the real name of that part of the sea was Pakefield bay, and that Kirtley, having once been a place of considerable trade in the herring fishery, had given to all the sea thereabout, even as far as Yarmouth, the general name of Kirtley sea ; part of ■which situate near the then haven's mouth was properly called Kirtley road — otherwise, they contended, the men of Lowestoft would be prevented buying herrings even in their own open roadsted. Petitions having been sent to the Privy Council, they were referred to Sir John Fortescue and other Judges, who reported that the acts and charters in favour of Yarmouth, were still in force ; but recommended that a Commission should issue, to ascertain the precise situation of Kirtley road, and that the admeasurement of the seven leuks should commence at Yarmouth quay. This decision was opposed by the burgesses, who obtained a re-hearing, but with no better success, and six Commis- sioners (three for Lowestoft and three for Yarmouth) were appointed by the Privy Council, with instructions to take the admeasurement from the quay at Yarmouth : but before they could execute this commission, the burgesses obtained another, direct- ing them to measure from the haven's mouth, and not to set up any boundary until further orders. The Commissioners nominated by the first commission, met for the purpose of proceeding to business ; but the burgesses objected, and having produced the second commission, nothing could be done ; whereupon, the Lowestoft Commissioners signed a certificate at Somerleyton, " shewing the unnecessary shifts, delays, and hard dealings of the Yarmouth men, and the necessity of ending the controversy.'' An appeal on behalf of Lowestoft, was then made to the Privy Council, who in- formed the Commissioners that as the matter was one of great difficulty, involving points of law, they had referred it to the Judges ; but the Judges, in their turn, said, the dis- pute had become so extremely intricate and perplexed, that they despaired of satisfactorily adjusting it, and advised that it should be decided by parliament. It was, indeed, time that an end thould be put to these unhappy controversies, which gave rise to acts of great violence and animosity on both sides ; thus we find, pending these proceedings, the Yarmouth men went into Lowestoft roads with two armed vessels, and under pretence of being within the liberties granted by their charters, demanded anchorage dues ; upon which a battle ensued, and much blood was spilled ; and although a complaint was lodged by the Yarmouth men against those of Lowestoft, in the Court of Star Chamber, it was dismissed, and the complainants fined. A biU was then introduced into the House of Commons in 1 596," for measuring of the miles betwixt Yarmouth and Lowestoft," and from the unpublished notes of Mr. Burgess (then M.P. for Bishop's Castle), we learn that Mr. Hubbard, of Lincoln's Lm, moved Digitized by Microsoft® 338 NOTES. the house to know their opinion how the words sepfem leucas, in the grant of Edward III., should be construed ; contending that if miles had been meant, the words septem milliaria, or millia passum, would have been used ; and further, that miles could not be measured at sea, the custom there being to reckon by leagues. Mr. Burgess informs us that although the question was not put, " yet the murmuring in the House seemed to be " for Yarmouth, — and the rather, because after long argument, the House was divided " on the bill aforesaid, in which the ayes had 90 voices, and the noes ] 08, and the bill " suppressed which was preferred by the Lowestoft men. And to speak without par- " tiality, a man might see most palpable wrong to Yarmouth offered by them which " dealt for Lowestoft ; for they openly in the House canvassed for voices, and procured " counsellors to speak in the behalf of Lowestoft, which was much spoken of, and neither " tolerable nor sufferable in so equal and just an assembly ; but they are rather to be " cast out, as unworthy to be of so honourable a council and consultation as this was.'' From this it would appear that the Bill was lost ; and yet it is certain that in this ses- sion an act was passed, directing that seven miles should be measured from the " crane quay " at Yarmouth, and thence southward by the sea shore, and that at the end thereof an " apparent mark" should be fixed j each mile to be 8 furlongs, and every furlong 40 perches, and every perch 16| feet; and that the Sheriffs of Norfolk and Suffolk should make the admeasurement and fix the marks, which should be by them for ever after continued. Notwithstanding this enactment was so explicit, it was silent as to the precise sit- uation of Kirkley road ; and of this circumstance the burgesses of Yarmouth availed themselves : for when they obtained their charter from James I., they had the place described as " opposite to the town of Kirkley.'' They, however, took no active mea- sures to enforce their pretensions, otherwise than by sending boats, on one day in the year, into the roads before Lowestoft, and exacting anchorage, until 1659, when they sent an armed vessel into Lowestoft roads, under the command of Thomas Allen, holding a commission from the bailiffs under the seal of the town ; but " the chief men of Low- " estoft came upon him violently and riotously in boats, and with force and arms drave " him out of that road, threatening to fire his vessel : " in consequence of which, the bailiffs of Yarmouth, in the following year, equipped " a competent vessel, with a com- pany of men and convenient weapons," and sent her into the roads of Gorton, Lowestoft, and Kirkley, during the time of the Free Fair, " there to do and execute all things specified in their former orders.'' Upon this, a petition from Lowestoft was presented to Charles II. stating that " such proceedings would be their utter ruin and destruction," and praying for redress. By a minute, dated the 17* of November, 1660, it appears that " the situation of the town of Lowestoft being very well known to His Majesty," the petition was referred by him to the Privy Council ; and a copy of it shortly after- Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 339 wards was sent to the bailiffs of Yarmouth, who were required to attend ; and a day having been named, another petition was sent up from Lowestoft, praying the King to be present in person, with which request he complied, and King Charles presided at a Council held on the twenty-fifth of January, 1661, when both parties were heard ; but no decision was made, and the disputants were directed to appear before Sir Geoffery Palmer, the Attorney-General, who, having investigated their rights, reported to the Council that the admeasurement required by the last Commission had not been made, and that, as the Judges had certified in 1597, these disputes could only be settled by the authority of parliament. The inhabitants of Lowestoft then prayed the King to be present at the following Council, and order the admeasurement to be made. At a Council held on the 3"^ of May, (at which the King again presided) it was ordered that the complainants should address themselves to the House of Lords, who should hear the case, and afford such redress as they might consider just. Thereupon, a petition was pre- sented accordingly, and the case was ordered to be heard at their bar, by Counsel on both sides ; the burgesses were to have " timely notice " of the hearing, but not having received notice until the SO"" of May, for a hearing on the 7"" of June, they objected to the suffi- ciency of the notice, and the hearing was postponed till June the 20*, when the parties appeared, and the case was argued with such mystifying success, that a reference was once more made to the Judges. Petitions on behalf of Lowestoft were presented to Sir Robert Foster (Lord Chief Justice,) and to Sir Orlando Bridgman (Chief Justice of the Common Pleas), and on the 27"" of June the witnesses were sworn -and examined at the bar of the House ; and, the decision of the Judges not having been received, an order was sent, desiring them to report to the House, with all convenient speed, that an end might be put to the business ; but they returned for answer, that they were engaged with the great and important affairs of the nation, and being under the necessity of set- ting off upon the circuit, they should be unable to give their opinion for some months. The House then, upon the petition of the Lowestoft men, ordered that nothing should be done to molest them until the opinion of the Judges could be obtained. AU parties appeared before the Judges on January the 24*, 1662, when the case was argued. The Judges reported to the House of Lords, leaving the admeasurement which was the princi- pal point in dispute, to the determination of their Lordships. After " a long and serious debate," the House ordered an admeasurement of the seven leuks to be made before the 24* of June following, by the Sheriffs of Norfolk and Suffolk, in the same manner as was ordered in 1596, and that at the end of such admeasurement a post be erected ; within which extent Yarmouth was to enjoy her privileges, and no further. How this order was obeyed, will best appear by " A Narrative," drawn up by Sir John Playters, Sir George Woodhouse, and other Justices of Suffolk, and presented by them to the High Sheriff of that county. They state, that on the 27* of May, (the appointed day,) they Digitized by Microsoft® 340 NOTES. assembled at the bridge foot at Yarmouth, by nine o'clock in the morning, and at eleven o'clock, Mr. Roger Smith (Under-Sheriff for Norfolk) appeared, and made his excuse for the High Sheriff, who was " not in health," and it was then determined, as " the day- was far spent," that the Under-Sheriffs should undertake and begin the admeasurement ; but Mr. Smith "made several cavills upon the order of the House of Lords, declaring « that it was not of sufficient validity to dispose of other people's rights ; and that there " was no certain and legal mode of composing the differences but by a trial at common " law : " and being pressed " to begin the admeasurement from the crane quay," he re- plied that the whole river, from the bridge to the haven's mouth, was the crane quay, and that the admeasurement might as properly be commenced at the latter place as at any other. Upon this they went into the town, and finding one crane only, urged the Under-Sheriff to begin at that point ; and he refusing, they requested him " to begin where his own reason dictated," and certify the same to the House of Lords for their decision; but "the Under-Sheriff continuing obstinate, retired into the town, where he dined with the Bailiffs." At three o'clock in the afternoon he " was again requested to " concur with the Under-Sheriff of Suffolk, and assist in the admeasurement, but he " not only refused, but returned many unhandsome answers : " in consequence of which the Under-Sheriff of Suffolk engaged two Surveyors, with whom he began the ad- measurement " from the foundation of the crane," and continued to measure to the place where the boat conducted him to the Suffolk side, measuring the water, " con- taining 18 poles," but not computing it in the seven miles. " It was," say they, " near four o'clock when they began the admeasurement," and although the Under-Sheriff of Norfolk, " in the most public manner, endeavoiaed to obstruct their proceedings, as far as the gate of the town," and afterwards the people of the town continued to pursue them in great multitudes, with " much violence, provoking language, and many dis- turbances," about half an hour before sunset, they finished the admeasurement, which fell short 18 poles of the former limit of the seven miles : and at this place a post was afterwards erected, according to the order of the House of Lords. The Under-Sheriff of Norfolk did not escape censure ; for upon a petition from Lowestoft, the House of Lords issued their warrant for his arrest, and made an order that the admeasurement should be again taken by the Sheriffs of Norfolk and Suffolk. Smith, having petitioned the House, was brought to the bar, and the authors of the narrative required to attend, when their Lordships, not being satisfied with the Under-Sheriff's defence, constrained him to " make his submission on his knees," humbly begging their Lordships' pardon, and expressing his " hearty sorrow " for not executing their Lordships' order, and for any " unadvised words " uttered by him. The new admeasurement was made on the lO"" of June, 1663, without interruption, and a certificate thereof was presented to the House by Earl Comwallis. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 341 Thus was this long dispute finally adjusted. The boundary post, which had been set up, was sometime afterwards washed down, and in 1676, it was re-erected at a greater distance from the sea. In the numerous petitions presented on the part of Lowestoft, care was taken to set forth the losses suffered by that town " by plunder and free quarters, and the extra- ordinary taxes and impositions levied upon the town during the late unnatural rebellion," which, the petitioners assured the King, they had sustained by reason of " their affections to his late Eoyal Father, of ever-blessed memory," and they complained of " having been " plundered by Oliver Cromwell and the said inhabitants of Yarmouth, who were instru- '" mental with and assisting him in the same : " these being topics upon which Yarmouth was constrained to preserve a prudential silence. Yarmouth continued to enforce the payment of anchorage in Kirkley road, or as it is now called Gorton bay, until the abolition of her Admiralty jurisdiction in 1835, and the only privilege she now enjoys, is that of paying £5 a year to the Crown. The merchants of Lowestoft paid the Queen's customs at Yarmouth until 1852, when they obtained a separate Custom-House, and the last vestige of dependence was removed. Nashe applied a motto to Yarmouth, which might in a double sense be adopted by Lowestoft, — " 'P'E.TO famam per undas" Page 172. — GruhVs Haven. At what period this channel of the river between Yarmouth and Caister, became choked up with sand, is not precisely known ; and, at an early period, its very position became a matter of dispute between the two places, in reference to their respective boundaries, — the question involving the right to about 400 acres of land. These contentions were ultimately settled by a Commission, and the depositions then taken are extremely curious. One of the proofs of possession adduced by Yarmouth (and which was strongly relied upon), was, that the bailiffs had not only " caused the said grounde to be driven for wey%e and strayes," but had maintained upon it " a peyer " of galous for execucion to be done upon felons, adjuged within the liberie and corpo- " racion of Gret Yermouth." Robert Whetmond deposed that " a certin woman was perished and drowned in " the seid Grubbs havyn j and that the same woman beyng founde upon the south syde " of it was fetched from thense to Yarmouth, and ther was buryed : " and that he re- membered well " a payer of galowes," and had seen " XIIII persons hangyng upon the same at one tyme." Tt Digitized by Microsoft® 342 NOTES. Henry Ilbeed deposed that, in 1475, " a certejn fyshe cald a whale, came on " grounde betwyn the seid lymptes, (that it is to say, betweyn the ston cros and " Grubby's havyn,) but lytell south from the seid Grubby's havyn ; and that one John " Russe, then beyng Bayly of Yermouth, commaunded dyvers inhabitantys in Yarmouth, " to gete cartys to goo -with hym," and they " braclyd and hewe the seid fyshe to peoys " and leide it in cartys, and then brought it to Yermouth, to th'use of the seid town : '' and that " a ship called an Esterlyncj, freyted with wyne and other merchandyse, was " brokyn in the gatt before Yermouth, and the goodys that were in her came inland in " dyvers places, whereof parcel came on land upon the seid grownde in variaunce," and were taken peaceable possession of by the bailiffs. Henry Watson stated that, being " of the capitall pleggys or hedboroughs of the " Leetys of Yarmouth,"' he had, " after th'old usage, divers tymes gon in perambula- " cion or pLrly over the said grounde unto the seid Grubby's havyn," and had seen " a " shippe of Breteyn, freyted with salt, cald the Julyan, lyeing on grounde bethweyn the " seid Grubb's haven and the seid Ston cross, not passyng a ilyghtshot — southe from " the seid Grubb's havyn ; whiche shippe, by violens of the See was there throwne upon " the shoore ; and that on the next day foUowying, one Edmunde Couper, of Yermouthe, " bought the seid shippe of the Breteyns for the sum of XVti mark starlyng, and payde " the same in the hous late of Margaret Ecclys, widue, in Yermouth, in the presens of " the bailiffes of Yermouth," who received twenty shillings for groundage. John Alman deposed that " three estraunge persons, whiche were drowned in the " sea, were washed up to the londe abought the mydwey between the seid Ston Cros and " Grubby's havyn," and were brought to Yarmouth and "buryed in ther clothes, all in " one pytt, in the north-est comer of Yermouth chirche yerd." And Walter Cooke in addition stated, " that one of the seid thre persons hadd a sylver whystle abought his " nekk of the value of XXVs. yilld. or thereabouts, and that the Prior of Yarmouthe " at that tyme beyng, had the seid whystle for a mortuary : " also, that " it chaunsed a " yongman, rydyng upon an hors, and a sakk with half a combe of whete undre hym, to " falle off his hors in the seid Grubby's havyn (otherwise cald Cokle water), and his " shooie fastnyed in the said sakk, and soo ther was perished," — the body being brought to Yarmouth and buried. Adam Godfrey stated that, in 1467, he had seen " XIIII or XV persons hangyng at one tyme upon the same galows." EoBERT SwALOWE also deposed to the same fact, adding that " he knew well the baylyffs of Yarmouth had caused the seid galows to be made ; and that the seid XIHI or XV persons were adjuged at Yermouth." Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 343 William Pigott deposed that " he sawe a peyer of galouse beying sett upon the " sondys of Gret Yermouth ; and that upon the same gallouse were put to execution " dyvers pirattys, rovers upon the See ; and that one Eylys, a Moor, heyng one of the " same company and then within age, called as hoy of the shippe, was not put to exe- " cuoion, but levyd many yeerys after." KiCHAED KusSE deposed that he had seen the gallows, " and dyvers men hangyng upon the same : " at which time his father had said these words to him, " Thou sest how thevys be served, therefor be thou ware by them ! " The Commissioners, however, considered the evidence " very confuse and dowtfuU," 80 they divided the debateable ground between the parties. The " Cross on the Sands," so often mentioned, was standing in 1299, when the first dispute as to boundaries oc- curred with Lord Bardolf, then lord of the manor of Caister : and in 1532, it was a matter of complaint against Olive Kylett, of Caister, that he had carried a cross in a processional, and had conducted the whole procession from Grubb's haven to the Stone Cross, — to the prejudice of the liberty of Yarmouth. The remains of the " Stone Cross " are still to be seen about one mile from the north gate : a similar cross stood at the entrance to Caister, but it was entii'ely removed about the year 1797. They were way- side crosses, the old road passing near them. In 1712, an act was obtained for making a causeway between Yarmouth and Cais- ter, — to be maintained by the respective towns within their limits : but subsequently Caister paid £500 to Yarmouth, upon condition that the whole of the road should, for ever thereafter, he maintained by the latter place. Page 176. — Corn brought in great abundance. From a very early period Yarmouth, as the principal port of the rich corn-growing county of Norfolk, has carried on a considerable trade in corn. By the 17"" Richard II., c. 7, all Enghsh subjects were allowed to export corn to any country not hostile, on paying the customs ; and upon many occasions the people of Yarmouth had licences granted to them for the exportation of corn free of duty ; the money so obtained being applied to the maintenance of the haven. It is remarkable that, so early as 1601, Sir Walter Raleigh, in his place in parlia- ment, advocated a free trade in com, urging that " the Low Countryman and the " Hollander, who never soweth com, hath by his industry such plenty, that they will " serve other nations : and therefore, I think, the best course is to set it at liberty, and " leave every man free, — which is the desire of a true Englishman." (Dewe's Journal.) Tt2 Digitized by Microsoft® 344 NOTES. Page MQ.— Market Place. A fine open plain containing two acres and three quarters. By an order of assem- bly made in 1542, " aU persons havyng grounds abutting uppon the market place," ivere required to " pathe the grounds ageynst their houses as far as other persons do commonly pathe ; " and the members of the corporation were required to contribute towards " the paving of the market place : " but it does not appear to have been paved all over until 1650, and when " the ground about the cross " was raised. The freemen of the town have the right of sitting free with one ped, table, or covered stall, in the green or ped market ; and the people of Ormesby also claim the right of sitting free. There are two chartered fairs annually held here : one on Shrove Monday and Tuesday, and one on the Friday and Saturday in Easter week. The Easter fair was held on Good Friday, until 1715, when the corporation ordered it to be kept on the Friday following. The first-mentioned fair was usually called " Cock Fair," from the old but cruel custom of cock-throwing, once almost universal in this country at Shrove- tide : at which season whipping tops, roasting of herrings, and other rude sports, typical of the rigour of church discipline, were also indulged in. For the regulation of the Market, various ordinances were at different times made. In 1550, it was ordered that none should buy or sell before the market bell rang in the morning, or after it was rung at three o'clock in the afternoon, — except butchers, who might sell sheep in the shambles at any time except during Divine service on Sundays. In 1551, no butcher was allowed to sell his meat at home, but was required to bring it into the " market houses." Country butchers were required to bring beef as well as veal to market. In 1552, butchers were to discontinue the practice of making candles, and to sell their fat to the tallow chandlers : and by an old ordinance, they were to sell no bull's flesh unless it were baited. In 1611, an order was made that there should be no stalls in the market for drapers, mercers, grocers, and haberdashers, as had been the practice. In 1625, the fish market was covered in and paved, and it was ordered that no fish should be sold in any other place. The covered market was removed in 1844, and the present market made on the same site. As clerks of the market, the bailiflfe were empowered to seize and destroy false weights and measures, and to fine the offenders, — a power anciently vested in the clerk of the market to the King's house, who also acted as the King's purveyor, and was en- trusted with very arbitrary powers, which were often abused. " It was once," says Lord Coke, in an address to the Grand Jury at the Norwich assizes, in 1607, "my hap ' to take a clarke of the market in his trickes ; but I advanst him higher than his " father's sonne, by so much as from the ground to- the toppe of the piUorie.'' Digitized by Microsoft® 'notes. 345 The clerk of the market had formerly the regulation of prices, and thus Nashe ■when comparing Yarmouth with Rye, says, " Rye is one of the ancient towns helonging " to the Cinque ports, yet limpeth einqtie-ace behind Yarmouth. Rye is Rye, and no " more but rye, and Yarmouth wheat compared with it, wherefore a right clerk of the " market would set a higher price on the one than the other." Queen Elizabeth, by her charter, constituted the bailiffs of Yarmouth, clerks of the market there, prohibiting any interference by the clerk of her household, a principle which was afterwards carried out generally by a statute of the 16* Charles I., which established a uniform weight and measure, according to the standard of the Exchequer, and enacted that the clerk of the market to the King's Household, should " only execute his office " within the verge, and the head officer of corporations, and lords of liberties, and depu- " ties, within their own precincts." Absurd attempts were in former times made, both by the legislature and by munici- palities, to regulate prices without regard to the unerring principles of supply and demand. Such were the laws passed against forestaUers, regraters, and engrossers, which were not entirely removed from the statute book tiU the end of the 18"" century. It was one of the duties of the Court Leet to present all " stallers, regraters, and en- grossers of fayres and markettys." An ordinance issued in 1357, directed that no herrings shoiJd be sold for a higher price than 40s. the last : but in 1361 we find the King in Council frankly confessing that by this attempt to fix prices, the sale of herrings was much decayed ; and that the people were " greatly endangered, that is to say, that many merchants coming to the " fair, as well labourers and servants as other, do bargain for herring, and every of them, " by malice and envy, increase upon other, and if one proffer 40s. another will offer IDs. " more, and the third 60s., and so every one surmounteth other in the bargain : '' so that the ordinance promulgated with the intention of keeping down the prices of herrings, had, in effect, raised them. Again losing sight of the fact that high prices were the effect not the cause of scarcity, the legislature enacted that aU articles of food should be sold at fixed prices. Under the same mistaken notions, laws were passed to fix the price of labour : and in 1389, " fore as much as a man cannot put the price of com and other victuals in certain," the Justices of Peace were empowered to regulate wages. The authorities at Yarmouth were not more enlightened ; and strove to regulate prices not only of herrings, but also of corn, malt, bread, beer, and other articles of consumption. In 1551, they ordered that no faggot wood or billet should be sold " before the bailiffs had set the price : " and butchers were required to give notice when they intended to km, that an account might be taken of the tallow, — an order ex- isting that no tallow-chandler should sell candles at more than 2d, a pound, nor tallow Digitized by Microsoft® 346 NOTES. at above 2s. a stone. In 1676, the price of bay salt was fixgd at IBi^. a thousand, and Spanish at 2ld. a thousand. So late as 1732, the price of salt was rated at 2s. per cwt. Restrictions were also imposed on the vending of different articles : in 1632, a let- ter was received from the Privy Council, complaining of " great disorder used in the vending and selling of tobacco, causing intolerable inconveniences," and requii-ing the bailiffs to consider how many " might well use the trade " at Yarmouth, and " to make choice of honest and fitt persons to vend and sell tobacco there." The. bailiffs sent up the names of one apothecary, six grocers, two hosiers, one merchant, and a chairmaker. It was a common practice to erect a Ckoss in the centre of a town, usually in the market place, as a symbol of the faith of the inhabitants. They were generally formed like the monumental crosses erected to Queen Eleanor, except that the basement was ex- tended and open " for pour market folkes to stand dry when rayne commeth." In 1558, the market cross at Yarmouth was ordered to be repaired : and in 1651, the sum of £69 2s. lOd. was paid " for heyning the cross and new paving the market." In 1704, " a new statue, representing Justice,'' was ordered to be set up. The last Cross stood until 1836, when it was removed ; and the exact site is now marked by a stone. The PiLLOKY and Stocks have disappeared from the market place, although both were in use during the early part of the present century. The Pillory or " Stretch-neck," was formerly appurtenant to the liberty of a market and might be used at the discre- tion of the magistrate, provided it was " without bodily peril either to man or woman." Bakers, for default of weight, might be adjudged to the Pillory, which punishment " should not be remitted to offenders either for gold or silver." Brewers also, were, for breaking the assize of ale, for a second offence " to suffer judgment of the Pillory, with- out redemption ; " and butchers, for selling unwholesome meat, or buying from Jews. The Pillory mentioned by our author, was a substantial erection, which lasted till 1729, when, " being greatly out of repair," it was taken down, and the lead used in covering the town-clerk's office. After this period, whenever this degrading punishment was inflicted, a temporary erection was made. In former times the head of the culprit was put through a hole, the hands through two others, the nose slit, and the face branded ; and many persons have died from the effects of the brutality of the populace. John Royal, and Alice his wife, were " pillored " in 1757, for keeping a disorderly house. William Flaxman, for perjury, in 1812. Tlus punishment was abolished (except for forgery) in 1815, and totally in 1837. In 1687, a Cage or " Stockhouse, for punishing and imprisoning vagrants and disorderly persons," was " set up near the church ; " and in 1747, the cage, which was then in the market place, was ordered to be removed, and the lead employed in repairing the cro.»s. In the following year, the bell then hanging in the cross was ordered to be sold. Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 347 Page 178. — Frig mari ventus. This is evidently a sort of punning allusion to the name of the town of Winohelsea, thus, — WIND (veniusj chill (frigus) SEA (mare.) " If I should iudge," says Lambarde, in his Perambulation of Kent, " by the com- " mon and rude verse, (* * Dover, Sandwicns, " * Ry, Rum, Frig mare ventus,' " I must say that Dover, Sandwich, Rie, Rumsey, and Winchilsey (for that is frig mare " ventus) bee the five portes : againe, if I should be ruled by the RoUe, which reciteth " the portes that sende Barons to the parliament, I must then add to these Hastings and " Hyde, for they also have their Barons as well as the other." Page 184. — Contentions and Bloodshed. So early as the reign of King John, the men of Yarmouth made a complaint against the men of AYinchelsea and Hastings, and offered the King " four palfreys and six hawks of Norway, to have an Inquisition by legal men of London, Lynn, and Norwich. CCal. Itol. Orig., vol. i., p. 76.) In 1241, the Earl of Hereford, Keeper of the Cinque ports, was commanded to distrain the Barons of Winchelsea for 100 marks, forfeited to the King, for injuries done during the fair at Yarmouth. In the following reign, the depredations, burning of ships, and injuries done on both sides, were such as to alarm the whole nation, and the loss of life was frightful. Among the M.SS. in the chapter- house at Westminster, there is a return (Norfolk Box, A., No. 21,) by which it appears that, during four years in the reign of Edward I., 206 Yarmouth men were killed by the Cinque-ports men in the Swinney, and 144 out of it ; besides 280 Suffolk men, and 387 Norfolk men ; whilst, during the same period, the ports had lost 306 on their side. No wonder, therefore, that " Edwarde the Firste did, in the tyme of his reigne, sett " down sundrye edictes under his greate scale, towching manye controversies and ques- " tions about the government of the Free Fayer at Yermouthe, arising betwene the men " of the Cinque ports and the people of Yermouthe." This " Dite," or order, contains many curious particulars, and defines the privileges of the contending parties. With regard to certain frequenters of the free fair, it is provided, " en Droit De meneStreuj; " «t Be femmcsi ne Hie, niong etSolons ijuc no? 'Baronsi nesf Pottej, ne ceujt He (Setnemue, " rten ne preiiinent," (Fxdera, vol. iii.,p. Hi). And at a subsequent period, the bailifis ordered that one of the parties alluded to, should in future wear straw hats. Digitized by Microsoft® 348 NOTES. In spite of edicts, these contentions continued till the reign of Edward III., when so serious was the quarrel, that three mandates were issued, addressed respectively to Sir John Norwich, Sir Geoffery Say, and the Bailiffs of Yarmouth, informing them that it was feared, if, before these dissensions were appeased, the English fleet met the enemy, the capture of the latter might be impeded ; and commanding them, upon pain of for- feiting life, limb, and goods, not to permit any damage to be done except to the King's enemies. The Cinque-port vessels were desired not to communicate with the Yarmouth ships during the dispute, but to await the approach of the enemy's galleys, and then to attack and destroy them. The bailiffs of Yarmouth were directed to send three or four burgesses to the King's chancery, to meet a similar deputation from the Cinque ports, in order that the quarrel might be ended by the Archbishop of Canterbury : and in the mean time the men of Yarmouth were strictly enjoined not to molest the Cinque-ports men. . In later times, the disputes with the Cinque ports were confined " to words, not deeds," and seem principally to have arisen about precedency, and the concurrent jurisdiction. Thus, the barons of the bailiffs of the Cinque ports " grevously objected and compleyned " unto King Henry VIII., of " John Palmer, one of the burgesses," that he " shulde interrupt and lett them of the execution of their office, and keepynge of the Kyng's justice there in tymes of the Feyer." In 1606, they complained of " cer- tain malicious people," who had " spread certain speeches," which "tenden much hurt " to the good name of the Mayor of Dover. In 1616, the bailiffs of the Cinque ports strenuously remonstrated against the places assigned to them ; for, said they, the bailiffs of Yarmouth placed themselves " so near to the cloth and bar, that the puney bailiff sat in the best place, even right under His Majesty's arms : " but at the next court they were admitted to a better place " under the cloth." In the year 1634, the bailiffs of the Cinque ports presented a formal petition to the Earl of Arundel and Surrey, (the then Earl Marshal,) in which they stated that, " by charter and custom," they annually sent two of their bailiffs to Yarmouth, to ex- ecute justice there (in conjvmction with the bailiffs of that town) during the fishing fair ; and that they were entitled to have place with the bailiffs of Yarmouth, on the bench in the court and in the pew at church, taking precedency alternately by ancient agreement. " Yet so it is, please, your lordship," say the petitioners, " that one Edward " Owner, one of the baihffs of the said town, a man of a turbulent spirit, minding to " affront the baUiffs of the ports, and disgrace and provoke them, did uncivilly keep " them without the bar, setting his foot across the entrance, and holding his hand on " the end of the bar ; " and when the Cinque-port bailifis " in fair and friendly manner " endeavoured to persuade him " to suffer them to enjoy their rights, according to custom and agreement," he, " with much heat and scornful language replied, that ' the same Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 349 question had cost men's lives ; '" and that " ' there was no way to come by them, but by the sword or the law : ' " and as they were going from the court and " stepping down ■" from the bench (as necessity compelled) somewhat before the said Mr. Owner, he, in " disgraceful manner told them that ' if some men of spirit, whom he had known, had " been bailiffs, they would have caused them to be flung down stairs.' " Mr. Ovvner also told them such doings cost men's lives, and when they replied that " they paid for it who were the authors of the same, — ' yea,' said he, ' a last of herrings.' " So again, when " put in mind that blood would require blood, and that a last of herrings would " not answer the oflenee now, — he replied ' a last and half of herrings, it may be, would.' " As such contentions had before ended in blood, the petitioners, who only desired " with quietness to perform their service," prayed his Lordship to grant his warrant to bring Mr. Owner before him, and after hearing the depositions of " honest and substantial witnesses," give them " such redress as he should think fitting." "Whereupon, the Earl, " after ample hearings and mature deliberations," declared his judgment to be, that all parties should conform to the agreement made in 1576, the same having been " set down by the Judges " and others to whom the matter was re- ferred, and that, as " a courteous reception and entertainment had been given to the bailiffs of the Cinque ports," at their last visit to Yarmouth, there should be " for " ever thereafter, a courteous carriage and friendly demeanour between the said par- " ties ; and that they mutually endeavour thenceforth cheerfully to concur " in the performance of their duties as administrators of justice. This good advice appears to have been followed for inany years, if we except " the unusual and indiscreet behaviour " of Mr. Daniel Lucas, one of the Cinque-ports bailiffs, at the Toll-house hall, in 16-12, when fie " violently and in a great rage," pulled up and broke in pieces one of the written boards fixed against the wall over the bench, and which had " stood and remained there beyond the memory of any man living.'' Per- haps it contained something, the truth of which he did not admit. In 1657, disputes arose in consequence of the bailiffs of Yarmouth sitting covered during the reading of the commission of the Cinque-ports bailiffs, who therefore returned home. The fact is, that so soon as Yarmouth was able to govern herself, she desired to get rid of the concurrent jurisdiction enjoyed by the Cinque-ports : and as the former place rose in importance, and the latter fell into decay, this interference became more irksome. At length these visits dwindled to a useless but expensive ceremony, the Cinque-ports prayed the King in Council to be " discharged of the great cost and fruitless service of their bailiffs to Yarmouth," and in 1662 they finally ceased. tJU Digitized by Microsoft® 350 NOTES. Page 184. — JExcelleiit Beer. It is somewhat remarkable that the bailiffs of the Cinque ports should have brought beer to Yarmouth, where, there is every reason to believe, " excellent beer " was then, as now, brewed. Indeed the inhabitants appear to have jealously protected the native article, persons being by various ordinances prohibited, under penalties, from purcha- sing any beer not brewed in Yarmouth. Brewing was formerly done by women, as appears by the 51"' Henry III., c. 1, s. 2, which enacts that " if a brewer be convicted that she have not kept the assize, the first, " second, and third time she shall be emerced; and if she offend often, and will not " amend, she shall be punished by the tumbrel, trebuoket or castigatory." By the ancient ordinances of the town, every brewer was required to see that he made " no manner of here but of good stuff, and that it be good and holsome for mannys body ; " also, that he used vessels of the proper size, — and sold " a galon of the best here for j'*, and a galon of single here for J"" ; " and that he should " set no man here " to sayle tyll he have sent for the officers of the towne, to tast yt and see that it bee good " and able,-" if he offended, he was to be fined: and if he sold any "feetybe here," he was to be "judged to the pilorye iij market dayes." In 1553, every brewer was required to brew " wholesome beer," and to charge no more than 3s. id. for every barrel of thirty-two gallons. In 1555, no brewers were al- lowed to brew in the town, unless by the appointment of the bailiffs. In 1572, they were ordered to brew with coals instead of wood. In 1589, no victualler or innkeeper was allowed to retail any " strange beer,'' under pain of forfeiture. In 1620, an endeavour was made to " incorporate" the Brewers of the town ; for which offence Thomas Harbottle was dismissed from the corporation. In 1636, the corporation conceived the idea of setting up a "brew-house on behalf of the town," but they did not proceed further than the appointment of a committee to consider the project. Brewing seems at that time to have been a flourishing trade, if we may judge from the number of brewing offices (thirty-four) then in Yarmouth. In 1572, none were to keep ale-houses without being licensed by the bailiffs. In 1586, it was found necessary to restrict the number of " tippling houses " to sixteen. By an order of assembly, in 1591, an ale-house or tavern could only be kept by a freeman, or the widow of a freeman. In 1 600, it was ordered that every alderman or his deputy, with the constable, should visit every tavern and ale-house twice a week, and enquire " what lewd persons " fre- quented the same, and " what poor inhabitants resorted thither to drink and game, and to commit the offenders to prison.'' The Magistrates had long previously endeavoured Digitized by Microsoft® NOTES. 351 to put down gaming. In 1552, John Harwarde was indicted for keeping " a certain house called A Cardyng house,'' and permitting John Gawyng and others to play with certain " carta picta, voc : CatDsi." Several cases also occur at preceding sessions : at one, John Mapyes was fined for suffering " slyde grote " to be played at his house. The use of Tobacco (then recently introduced) fell, likewise, under their displeasure ; and the alder- men and constables were required to apprehend every inhabitant found smoking in any tippling house, or overcome with drink : they were further to search in every inn or tippling house, whether any flesh was used on fast days, or on days prohibited by law. In 1622, the tippling houses had increased to forty ; and were then restricted to that number, " under a penalty of £5 by the bailifi' licensing: " this order was disregar- ded, and in 1626, it was repeated In 1644, the number was increased to eighty, " besides the great inns and taverns." In 1 705, it was augmented to one hundred and twenty. In 1711, it was ordered that no licence should be granted, to any person, to draw or re- tail ale or other liquor, at any house by the sea-side, except during the herring and mackerel fishing season. There are at the present time, one hundred and eighty-four licensed public houses ; the number of beer-shops, not having spirit licences, does not exceed fifty. @nU of iaolcs. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX TO 3^aii0tii|j'3 3ii0tnrt| nf §xul f^armntitli. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® ^^^mtiix. SECTION I. CIVIL' GOVERNMENT. When the sand upon whicli Yarmouth now stands " did grows to be drye, and was not over flowen by the sea, but waxed in heighte, and also in greatnes," it was claimed by the King as part of his ancient demesne in fee ; all lands in the kingdom ha^■ing been, by supposition of law, originally vested in the cro'wn : and all such, to which no other derivative title can be shovim, are still so claimed, — as the sea shore below high water mark, the beds of rivers, and the like. In Domesday, it is stated that Edward the Confessor " held Yarmouth." It then had seventy burgesses or householders, who, after the Saxon custom, probably elected their own Borough or Port Reve to collect the King's customs. After the conquest, the King assumed the right of nominating these deputies, then usually calle4 Bailiffs ; and they often " farmed " the King's Customs, that is, they paid to the Crown a fixed sum, and collected what they could of the inhabitants, under the name of " baUlages " or " toUages." The necessities of the King or the importunities of subjects too powerful to be refused, frequently led to the grant of a borough, (or the King's rights of cus- toms and duties therein,) to some great lord, who then appointed his o%vn Reve Digitized by Microsoft® 356 APPENDIX. or Bailiff to govern the place and collect the revenue. At Yarmouth, however, King Henry I. " being informed of the resorts of people there, appointed a Ruler of the people and place," who was called the Provost, and " who tooke " diverse and sondrye duties for the Kinge, of the inhabitants, and of all others " repajTrenge thither ; and exequited justice in the Kinge's Maiestye's name, " accordinge to his commission, yeldinge accompte thereof to the Kinge's " Maiestie." It appears by a return made by WLlliam le Newton, Sheriff of Norfolk, in the following reign, that the rent or sum paid annually to the King for his customs at Yarmouth, was £40. To avoid the exactions of these collectors, and in order to acquire the ad- vantages of self-government, the inhabitants of tovras were naturally desirous of farming the King's revenue themselves ; and to prevent an increase of taxation with an increase of prosperity, they wisely required that a fixed rent should be jjaid in perpetuity : to accomplish this, they excited the cxipidity of the Crown, by offering a larger annual sum than they had previously paid. Thus, in the reign of King John, the burgesses of Yarmouth induced that necessitous Monarch to grant them the borough for ever, at a fee-farm rent of £55, which continues to be paid to this day.* The charter, by which this * In some places a nominal rent only was reserved, or some trifling service imposed. Thus, the fee-farm rent rendered to the Crown by the city of Norwich, consisted in the delivery yearly of twenty-four herring pies, and was probably reserved ■when the sea flowed up to Norwich, and the citizens caught herrings at their door. "When King "William the Conqueror added lands to the manor of Carlton, in Nor- folk, he made it a condition that the Lord, for the time being, should carry these pies or pasties to the King's palace, wherever he might be in England, and place them on the Royal table. They were annually provided by the Sheriffs of Norwich, out of their official allowance, and transmitted to the Lord of the Manor of Carlton for the above purpose. The pies were to contain " 100 herrings of y* large hundred of y' first new herrings that came to y^ s^ city," and were to be " well seasoned w* the following " spices (viz,) half a pound of ginger, half a pound of pepper, a quarter of cinnamon, " one ounce of spice of cloves, one ounce of long pepper, half an ounce of grains of " pacadilly, and half an ounce of galangals." The Lord or his tenant was to receive in return, at " y" King's house, six loves, six dishes out of the kitchen, one flaggon of wine, " one flaggon of beer, a truss of hay, one bushel of oats, one prickett of wax, and six " candles of tallow." The Court sometimes took " great exceptions " against the good- ness of these pies ; and, in 1629, the officers of the Royal Household complained that they were " not well baked in good and strong pastrye," and some were " found to con- tain no more than fewer herrings," whereas, the tenure required " five to be put in every pye, at the least." The city of Norwich subsequently purchased the manor of Carlton, and then the Sheriffs performed this service. It ceased on the passing of the Municipal Corporation Act. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 357 grant was made, confirmed many most important privileges and immunities, and was, in fact, the magna charta of the town.* Yarmouth was, no doubt, a burgh long before the time of King John ; but by this charter it became a free iurgh, and in consideration of the payment of the fee-farm rent, was exempted from the payment of all customs or taxes to which the King had been previously entitled. Articles, for the better government of the town, were confirmed by letters patent in the reign of Henry III., and again in the reign of Edward I. It was provided that, in order to " enforce and strengthen " the bailifis, twenty- four " vAie men of the town " should be chosen and sworn, who should at all times obey the bailiffs' summons. This custom continued long in force, as appears by an ordinance of the corporation, made in 1386, which names the then twenty-four " wise men " or Jurats, who were annually chosen to represent the whole commonalty of the town ; and were, by their oath, to make " newe elec- tion of the best and most discrete men " to be bailifis, and also to make " trewe and indifferent election " of aU other ofiicers, namely, two chamberlains, two churchwardens, two muragers, eight warders of herrings, eleven collectors of the half dole, and four auditors. In 1491, it was found that many "variances and discordes " had been " moved among the burgesses and comminalte," in consequence of " mysusyng " and negl)'^gent kepyng of the ordenaunces and reules, theretofore made, or- " de}Tiyd, and establyshed by olde, wyse, and discreetmen, burgesses of the " same towne ; " for remedy of which, the bailifis, burgesses, and commonalty, being assembled together, did, " by the good and discrete advise of the ryght worshipful James Hobart, the Kyng's Attorney, then being present," agree that two of the bailifis should choose ten other " well disposed " men ; and the twelve unitedly were to correct, reform, and amend the old ordinances, and provide other ordinances "stably" to be kept, "for the avydyng of such enormytees" in future. By the rules then made, it was provided that " upon Seynt John's day the Decoleation," a common assembly should be held for the election of bailifis and other officers, " aftyr the old laudable custome of the same toAvne wythoute tyme of mende used," at which all the members of the corporation should come, " wythoute any wamyng to them to be made," or be fined ; at which assembly * This charter is deposited in the Hutch, and is still in excellent preservation. Digitized by Microsoft® 358 APPENDIX. it was provided that there should yearly be -written, for every leet, nine names of the " most discrete, well dysposyed and indifferent persons " of the forty- eights, or common councilmen, then being present ; and in default of that number, then to name other " well disposed " persons then present : the names so written to be put into four caps, each leet by itself, and brought before the bailiffs, and " an innocent or a man not lettered," was then to be called, who should take out of every cap three bills, and lay them down before the bailiffs ; and the twelve persons whose names were found inscribed on these bills were then to be called, charged, and sworn, " after the old custom of the town," to choose the officers for the ensuing year. And if nine of the twelve so sworn were accorded (though the other three disagreed,) their verdict was to be received. Befoj-e this time, and especially when there were four bailiffs, it was not unusual for the same person to fill the office for two or three years successively, or at short intervals ; but by these ordinances it was provided that " five years should be fully round and complete " before a re-election ; but this rule was frequently altered. Besides the above ofiicers, the chamberlains were, with the advice of the Bailiffs, to choose a water-bailiff,* whose wages were 33s. 4f/. a year, with a gown ; also, a gaoler and Serjeants, — their wages to be 20s. a year each and a gown," if they be trew and dyligent." They were required " to give attendance and wait upon the bailiffs, when not occupied in the town's service." Although chosen on St. John's days, the bailiffs were not sworn into office until Michaelmas day. On each of these days it was customary for the minister of the parish to preach a sermon, for doing which he had a special allowance from the corporation. In 1628, an attempt was first made by Mr. Bailiff Cowper, to change the government of the town ; which led to much contention. At the ensuing elec- tion of bailiffs, a letter was received from the King, recommending Robert Norgate and Thomas Medowe to that office : they were -chosen, although con- trary to a then existing bye-law, which forbade, but, it appears, did not prevent a re-election until eight years had expired. The ancient form of government by two bailiffs, was continued until 1684, when Charles II. granted a charter, requiring the election of a maj^or instead : * This office was instituted in 1333, and abolished in 1835. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 359 and ty it the number of " four-and-twenties " was reduced to eighteen aldermen, and the " eight-and-fortys " to thirty-six common-councilmen. After this charter had been abrogated by the general proclamation of James II., in 1688, the government was again vested in two bailiffs, and so continued until 1 703, when, by the charter of Queen Anne (which was the twenty-fifth and last charter granted to the borough,) the ofiice of mayor was revived and has continued ever since. The curious custom of electing a mayor by an inquest, chosen and kept in the same manner as prescribed for the election of bailiffs, was observed until the passing of the Municipal Corporation Act in 1835. The longest "lay" was in 1744, when the inquest were locked up in the Guild-hall for ten days, and at last chose William Browne, Esq. In 1767, they were shut up for three days and three nights, and then chose John Fisher, Esq.* Instances have occurred of the newly-elected mayor having died between the time of election on St. John's day, and the inauguration on Michaelmas day, or of having died during his year of office ; and in these cases the inquest which had elected him were summoned again to name his successor. It had been customary for the newly-elected bailiffs to give a " banquet" on St. John's day, but in 1649, it was "forborne," Mr. Bailiff Medowe promising to give £10 to' the poor in lieu thereof, and " to provide a supper for the Quest ; " and the latter custom continued to be observed till " the Quest" ceased in 1835. Vacancies among the common council were supplied by that body sending the names of freemen to the aldermen, for the latter to choose from : and vacan- cies among the aldermen were supplied from the common council, the choice being with the aldermen. Some of the privileges enjoyed by the bailiffs were curious. Thus, in 1620, it was ordered that the new elect baiUffs shoidd have power " to take up masons and carpenters for the fitting and furnishing of their houses, against the time they took their charge ; and if any refused, the bailiffs were to commit them." They were also entitled to receive " metts " of salt and coal during their year of office. They had, likewise, the power of naming two freemen at the time of * Faction seems to have reigned at this time, for there was no Assembly to trans- act business during the whole year, and only one in the following year (when Robert Lancaster, Esq., was Mayor,) for the special purpose of electing a Sub-Steward. To compel the attendance of the corporation, it was frequently necessary to obtain a writ of mandamus, as was the case in the years 1688, 1753, 1754, 1755, 1790, 1794, and 1805. The law now requires an Assembly to be held quarterly. TV Digitized by Microsoft® 360 APPENDIX. their election : a valuable privilege, when considerable sums were readily given to obtain the freedom of the burgh. The mayor, also, had his " fishing thousands," being a sort of " render in kind " of herrings ; afterwards commuted for a money payment. It might, perhaps, be well if some of the regulations for ' corporate meet- ings were not at the present day obsolete. In 1545, it was ordered that no person should depart from an assembly without the leave of the bailifis, and any member who shoidd " walke uppe and downe, or talke, the baylyves syttyng," should be fined : and, in 1615, it was ordered that no man should " deliver his " mind in any uncomely and indecent speeches out of order and convenient time ; " and that he who should first stand up, should have priority of speaking; and " coming to the bar (if he should think good) should deliver his speech to Mr. " BailiiFs, and have liberty to declare any matter touching the public good, with- " out disturbance : and after he should have delivered his mind, he should depart " to his place and sit down ; and the next after him should so speak and sit " doAvn ; and so orderly, that every man might declare his mind in proper time." Members quarrelling at any assembly, coming late, or absenting themselves, were fined ; and if incorrigible, dismissed. Previous to 1624, all questions had been decided by marking on paper ; but in that year the ballot was introduced. Up to the year 1651, it was cus- tomary to read a prayer before the commencement of business, but in that year it was " forborn, for that it was ofiensive to divers members ; " and instead thereof, the four ministers, Mr. Brinsley, Mr. Bridge, Mr. Allen, and Mr. Tillinghast, were " intreated to attend at assemblies, and pray with the mem- bers before the beginning thereof." At the restoration, " the antient custom and prayer to be used before assemblies," was resumed. Prayers were ordered to be read by the tovra-clerk ; and Mr. Bends having refused to do so, was dis- missed. It subsequently, however, fell into disuse. MUNICIPAL ARMS. The most ancient bearing was, on a field azure, three herrings argent. Afterwards the royal arms of England were placed in chief with the three herrings, two and one, in the field. In the reign of King Edward III., the ancient arms were dimidiated with the royal coat, as a mark of special favour. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® .6'.^-. =fiiU /.s8+a ^n^^sa Jclunn^T:-. J^C^^X: t'r^r^jLly Johnjon, IBea^^nZ CT YARMOUTH. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 361 oonceded to the town in acknowledgment pf the effectual aid rendered to that King, durmg his wars with France. All these coats were certified as belonging to the town, at the Herald's visitation in 1563 : the first, as appearing on the " Burgesses' Seal ; " the second as being " the oulde and auncient armes of the towne of Great Yarmouth ; " and the third, as being " the usuall armes at this; present time." In 1612, the. bailifis, " delivered the town arms, drawn out by the King's; Commissioners, to be put into the hutch." The motto adopted by the town,-is- Rex et nostra jura. MUNICIPAL INSIGNIA. The Mace, which in early ages was a weapon of war, subsequently became the emblem of civil power. In corporate tpwns they were frequently royal gifts, or presented by distinguished, persons. A mace was carried before the bailiffs of Yarmouth at a very early period. The word bailiff is derived from hajulus, whence comes lailus, a judge or governor; and this officer was, doubtless, originally called a bailiff, because he was the bearer of the Prince's hhala or lance, as the ensign of his deputed authority : and it was in consequence of the very ancient custom of delivering a lance or spear, in the way of commission, before the invention of writing, that we find rods, wands, batons and other in- struments, stUl given or used, to denote the possession of office. In 1690, instead of the great silver mace which was then " decayed," the maces now in use were ordered to be made, " one for each of Mr. Bailifis." The extra cost was £55 11*. 6d. They are of silver gUt, and about four feet in length. The head of each mace, ensigned by the Imperial crown, is chased in high relief,"with four female figures, terminating in foliage, alternating with the rose, shainrock, thistle, a-udijleur de lis, each surmounted by an Imperial 'crown,; and the monograms XXXX Rfl fo' Wiiiiam and Mart, Rex et Regina. The shafts are adorned with oak leaves and acorns, and at the base of the handle are the arms of Yarmouth on both sides. There are, also, three small silver maces belonging to the corporation. One (which has the town arms engraved on the head, and those of the admiralty at' the base,) was made for.the Marshal of the Admiralty in 1562, by a goldsmith at' Norwich, out of some " silver articles " delivered to him for that purpose ;i arid. vv2 Digitized by Microsoft® 362 APPENDIX. as the Marshal was directed to pay 2s. 6d. a year to the use of the church, it is probable they were church goods. Each of the other two maces has the town arms engraved on the head. There is also a small pocket mace of silver gUt, which is used by the Mayor as a personal symbol of authority. A SwoED of Justice is carried before the Mayor on all official occasions. It measures four feet six inches in length. The scabbard is covered with crimson velvet, having gilt plates bearing the royal arms, the arms of the to-^vn, and the ro5'al badge of the rose and croAvn. On one side of the pommel is a figure of Law ; and on the other, one of Justice : both chased in relief. The sword was adopted when the charter was obtained from King Charles II., for the election of a mayor instead of two bailiflfs ; and when that charter was abrogated, the sword was placed in the hutch, until the charter of Queen Anne again authorised the election of a mayor. Until 1738, the sword was carried before the mayor by the water-bailiff; but in that year, the Marshal of the Admiralty couit was appointed to that duty, with an allowance of £1 13«. 4d. for a gown. The Oae was intended to typify the admiralty jurisdiction of the borough ;* since the abolition of which, the use of it has been discontinued. It is of silver, doubly gilt, and is about four feet in length. On the blade are chased in relief the royal arms, the anchor and cable, the arms of the town, and the arms of Killett. The anchor, dolphin, and other nautical emblems are also introduced ; and on the handle is this inscription, — €:i: Bono ©uelig Etllctt, arinigeri mdccxlv. Samuel Killett, Esq., served the office of mayor in 1746 ; and was after- wards appointed collector of customs at Exeter, where he died in 1776. He lies buried in the cathedral, and there is an inscription to his memory. The Chain, having an appendant medal, (with the arms of the to\\Ti on the obverse, and a ship under full sail on the reverse,) was purchased by sub- * The oar was always a symbol of admiralty jurisdiction. Thus we find, that in 1459, John Brackley, chaplain to Sir John Fastolfe, and one of his executors, writing to John Fasten, says, " On Monday last, at Cromer, was the oar and the books of the registry of the Admiralty, taken away from my Lord Scales' men by a great mtdtitude of my Lord Roos's men." Lord Scales being then Vice-Admiral of the county. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® B H ° o Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 363 scription in 1734, (Barry Love, Esq., mayor,) and presented to the corporation, " to be worn by the mayors, during their respective mayoralties, for ever." The weight was 34oa. I6dw(s. I'igrs., and the cost £166. In 1746, the medal was sold, and its value applied in purchasing additional links to the chain. MUNICIPAL PLATE. The corporation of Yarmouth possessed a considerable quantity of plate. In 1583, Baron Flowerdew, who had been their recorder, gave them a piece of plate : and in 1587, John Stubb, then " burgess to parliament," presented them with a silver basin and ewer, "to be used yearly by the bailiffs." In 1597, Richard Browne, of Norwich, gave them three silver cups. In 1600, John Dasset gave for his freedom, two silver cups, with the town arms engraved thereon. During the great distress in cutting a new haven, a great quantity of plate was sold : and upon the breaking out of the civil war, much plate was coined into money for the use of the parliament. In 1648, George Morse presented the corporation with a siLver salt, weighing 25os. : and in 1665, he bequeathed to them £40, to purchase a basin and ewer. Three other silver salts were purchased by the corporation about this time. In 1667, " a great silver tankard," with three small silver wine cups were stolen from Mr. Bailiff Mychelson's house ; and he was ordered to pay the value of the same, for buying a new tankard. " And in regard the tankard lost, was of the gift of Mr. George Morse," it was ordered that it should be " so set in letters upon the new tankard." In 1681, the chamberlains were ordered to change the broken and old fashioned plate belonging to the town. The plate now belonging to the corporation, consists principally of, — A silver drinhing cup and cover, weighing 63oz. ^dwts. ; and bearing on one side the royal arms, with the inscription, — !^r. ®eorge ^orse'g ®tft ot s silijer Rafter snD tSCanSarn, toas e)cc|iaiis;eii for £^t0 Cup, in t^e ^ear 1737. A rose-water dish, of silver, weighing 107oz. The arms of the to^vn are engraved at the bottom of the dish, with the inscription, — ^e ©ift of £pr. ffi«ro;e Sporjie. Digitized by Microsoft® 364 APPENDIX. A punch howl, of silver. The exterior is divided into panels, one of wHch contains the arms of the town, in high relief ; and on the others the following inscriptions are engraved, — Cjcnono 3!«c