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Books of ^pecial' value and gift books, when the giver wishes/ it, are not allowed to circulate. Readers are asked tore- port all cases q£ books •' marked or mutilated. Do not deface books by inarks and writing. Cornell University Library HD9850.5.G78 Reports by Her Majesty's secretaries of 3 1924 005 877 372 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924005877372 REPORTS BY HER MAJESTY'S SECEETARIES OP EMBASSY AND LEGATION KESPECTINa FAOTOEIES rOE THE SPINNING AND WEAVING TEXTILE EABEICS ABEOAD. Presented to both Houses of Parliament by Command of Her Majesty. 1873. LONDON : PRINTED BY HARRISON AND SONS. 187J TABLE OF CONTENTS. Lettek from the Home Office, inclosing Memorial from' the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland . . CiRCDLAR addressed to Her Majesty's Representatives abroad July 13, 1872 July 20, Page 1 3 Reports in answer to the preceding Circuljr. Country. Residence. Name. Date. Page Austria Vienna .. Dec. 19, 1872 1 Bavaria Munich . . Dec. 13, 7 Belgium Brussels Mr. J. G. Kennedy .. Wov. 25, 12 Denmark . . Copenhagen . . Mr. Strachey Nov. 26, 54 Greece Athens Mr. Barrington Oct. 30, 57 Hespe-Darinstadt and Darmstadt Mr. Cope . , Nov. 30, 59 Baden Netherlands The Hague . . Mr. Walsham Dec. 11, 64 Prussia Berlin Mr. Plunkett Dec. 6, 70 Russia St. Petersburgh Mr. Egerton Jan. 2, 1873 86 Saxe-Coburg-Gotha . . Coburg . . Mr. Barnard Nov. 6, 1872 114 Sweden Stockholm Mr. Gosling Dec. 6, 116 Switzerland Berne Mr. Gould.. Feb. 24, 1873 120 Turkey Constantinople. Mr. Casolani Dec. 10, 1872 183 Brussa Vice-Consul Maling . . Oct. 5, 184 Wurtemberg Sfittgardt Mr. Eden . . Jan. 13, 1873 190 Appendix. Sir A. Buchanan to Earl Granville. Mar. 10, 1873 221 Mr. Liddell to Mr. Hammond. Su% Whitehall, July 13, 1872. I AM directed by Mr. Secretary Bruce. to transmit to you, herewith, a copy of a Memorial from the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland, praying that the Government would take steps to obtaia certain information connected with factories for the spinning and weaving of textUe fabrics on the Continent, and especially in the countries named ; and I am to request that in laying the same before Lord Granville, you wiLL move him. to cause Mr. Bruce to be informed whether he could obtain the desired informa- tion through the medium of the Diplomatic OflB.cers in -those countries. I am, &c. (Signed) A. P. O. LIDDELL. Inclosure. Memorial. To the Right Honourable Henry Austen Bruce, M.P., one of Her Majesty's Secretaries of State. The Memorial of the Undersigned, representing the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland, Humbly Sheweth, — That your Memorialists request permission to draw yom* attention to the necessity which in their judgment exists, that authentic and reliable information should be [150] B obtained and publislied as to the hours of labour, the rates of wages, and the progressive increase of production in factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics on the Continent, especially in Germany, Austria, Belgium, Holland, Prance and Switzerland. That in the present state of the labour market, and in face of the increased importation of foreign manu- factures into this country, this Association apprehends there wiU not be any difiPerence of opinion as to the importance and value of such information impartially obtained. That this Association is of opinion that this can only be done effectually by the Government, and whilst avoiding the expense and delay of a Royal Commission which this Association is informed has been suggested in some quarters, would enable the Government to take such action upon any proposal for further legislation restricting the hours of labour as would satisfy the House and the country. Your Memorialists therefore pray that you will sanction the inquiry prayed for in this Memorial. And your Memorialists will ever pray. (Signed) EDMD. ASHWORTH, Chairman. JOSEPH SIMPSON, Treasurer. HENRY WHITWORTH, Secretary. 96, King Street, Manchester, July 11, 1872. Circular addressed to Her Majesty's Representatives abroad. Foreign Office, Sir, July 20, 1872. I TEANSMIT to you herewith copies of a memorial whicli has been addressed to Her Majesty's Secretary of State for the Home Department by the National Association of Pactbry Occupiers in Great Britaia and Ireland. You will perceive that information is asked for by the Association on certain points connected with factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics on the Continent, more especially in the countries named in the Memorial. And I have to request that you wiU instruct one of the Secretaries of your Mission to furnish a report on the subject before the end of the year. I have, &c. (Eor Earl Granville) (Signed) ENFIELD. REPORTS HER MAJESTY'S REPRESENTATIVES ABROAD. Austria. Sir A. Buchanan to Earl Granville. My Lord, Vienna, December 19, 1872. With reference to yovu* Lordship's circular despatch of the 20th July last, instructing me to obtain informa- tion on certain points connected with the Spinning and Weaving Factories of Austria - Hungary, I have the honour to inclose herewith a translation by Sir George Bonham of a note which I have received from Count Andrassy, informing me that the Ministry of Commerce is now collecting data for compiling a table of the industrial statistics of the Empire, but that it cannot be completed until a report which they have requested from the Reichenberg Chamber of Commerce is received. Count Andrassy regrets, therefore, that some delay may still occur before he can communicate to me infor- mation on the subject which I have asked for, and which Her Majesty's Government is desirous of receiviag before the end of this year. I have, &c. (Signed) ANDREW BUCHANAN. b AUSTRIA. Inclosure. Count Andrassy to Sir A, Buchanan. (Translation.) With reference to an application made by His Excellency Sir Andrew Buclianan, in his note of August 1st, and by a later verbal communication, for statistical information respecting the cultivation of flax, and also the spinning and linen manufactories ia the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, the Ministry for Foreign Affairs has not failed to apply to the Ministries of Commerce in both sections of the Empire. In the Imperial and Royal Ministry for Commerce, steps are now being taken for the compilation of a table of industrial statistics for the whole of Austria, and with this view the Chambers of Trade and Commerce on this side of the Leitha have been required to furnish full reports. The greater" number of these have now been sent in, but the Report of the Reichenberg Chamber has not yet arrived. Since, however, Reichenberg is one of the most important centres of that branch of industry in which the British Government is interested, the Imperial and Royal Ministry for Commerce has thought it best, in putting together the required data, which however, it is expected will be soon finished, to wait till the report of the Chamber in question shall have been sent in. The Minister of the Imperial Household and for Foreign Affairs, while regretting extremely the delay which the foregoing circumstances have caused in answering the application made by the British Govern- ment, avaUsj &c. Eor Minister of Foreign Affairs, (Signed) OREZY. Vienna, Decemher 18, 1872. Bavaria. Mr. Morier to Earl Granville. My Lord, Munich, December 13, 1872. With reference to your LordsMp's circular despatcli of the 20th of July, I have the honour to state that I received some time ago from, the Bavarian Poreign Office, the inclosed replies to queries addressed to that Department by Mr. Eenton. As it appeared to me that the Bavarian authorities had not seized the meaning of the third poiat on which Her Majesty's Government desired to obtain information, I addressed to the Bavarian Eoreign Office the note, of which a copy is likewise inclosed, in reply to which I have now received the statistics transmitted herewith. The information thus furnished is not of a satisfactory kind ; but in order to draw up a really satisfactory report, it would have been necessary to pay a visit to the manufacturing districts themselves, and to obtain infor- mation on the spotj which, owing to my being at present here alone, could not be done. I have, &c. (Signed) B. B. D. MORIEB. Inclosure 1. Queries addressed to the Bavarian Government by Mr, Fenton, with the Answers supplied thereto. (Translation.) 1. What are the hours of labour in spinning and weaving factories, and are they the same for men, women and children ? — A. The working day in cotton, spinning, and weaving factories comprises twelve hours, from 6 to 12 a.m., and 1 to 7 p.m. ; but of this time twenty minutes are allowed before 8 a.m. for breakfast, and again twenty minutes before 4 p.m. for supper (" vesper 8 BAVARIA. brod "). The hours of labour have hitherto been the same for male and female hands, as well as for such children as are allowed to work in factories. 2. What wages are paid in these establishments to men, women, and children ? — A. The weekly wages, varying according to the degree of industry and the amount of skill of the individual hands, average — (a.) Por men, from 5 fl. 24 kr. to 10 fl. 30 kr. (6.) Tor women, from 3 fl. 54 kr. to 7 fl. 12 kr. (c.) Por children, from 3 fl. 18 kr. to 4 fl. 30 kr. Overseers and master-workmen earn from 11 fl. to 21 fl. a week. 3. In what proportions has the capacity of production of these factories increased ? — A. Most of the manufac- turers to whom this query has been addressed have confessed themselves imable to seize the exact meaning of the inquiry, as the capacity of production of a factory has no necessary connection either with the hours of labour or with the rates of wages. One of the persons applied to has, however, observed that if this query is intended to mean whether the average excellence and producing power of the workmen have increased or not, the question must be answered in the negative. It must at the same time be admitted that at the present day in factories supplied with the best and newest machinery, only about haK the number of workmen are required for the same amount of produc- tion as were necessary twenty years ago with the machinery then in use. Inclosure 2. Mr. Morier to M. de Daxenherger. M. le Conseiller d'Etat, Munich, September 27, 1872. I HAVE had the honour to receive your Excellency's communication of the 27th instant, with its iaclosures, and I beg leave to express my best thanks for the information thus furnished me respecting the hours of work and rates of wages in the Bavarian spinning and weaving industries. As regards the difficulty felt by some of the manufacturing firms in replying to the third question — vizt., that respecting the increased productive BAVARIA. 9 capacities (" produktions fahigkeit ") of the manufacturers in question, I apprehend that the information which Her Majesty's Government are desirous of obtaining does not refer to the capacity of production so much as to the actual increase of production ; and I should therefore be much obliged if your Excellency vrere able to furnish me with statistics as to this actual increase in the pro- duction of yarns and textile fabrics in Bavaria during the last ten or fifteen years, showing, if possible, the progressive increase of that production year by year. I have, &c. (Signed) E,. B, D. MORIER. Inclosure 3. Statistics respecting the Increase in the Production of Yarns and Textile Eabrics in Bavaria. I. — Cotton Yarn Spinnery at Stadtbach. Year. 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 Quantity.. ZoU. centners. 39,900 37,250 37,700 37,500 37,900 41,000 41,900 41.200 42,400 42,300 II. — Cotton Eine Yam Spinnery (" BaumwoUfein spinnerei"). Production Years. ZoU. centner 1862 .. 11,750 1863 . . 12,200 1864 . . 12,400 1865 .. 11,150 1S66 . , 12,100 1867 . . 14,450 1868 .. 18,900 1869 . . 22,750 1870 .. 19,650 1871 : . . . 19,650 10 BAVARIA, III. — Cotton Yam Spinnery at Senkelbach. Amount produced Years. Kilog. . 1864 .. 331,500 1865 .. 339,500 1866 .. 462,000 1867 .. 499,000 1868 .. 597,000 1869 .. 609,000 1870 .. 519,000 1871 .. 580,000 In the years 1862 and 1863, wlien the above mill was first started, the amount of yarns produced was insignificant. IV. — Cotton Yam Spinnery of Johann Eriederich Chur and Sons. Years. 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 Amount produced. Lbs. 700,000 700,000 700,000 700,000 680,000 750,000 950,000 1,000,000 750,000 950,000 V. — Mechanical Cotton Spinning and "Weaving Years. Amount of Amount of yarn produced. cloth produced. Kilog. Pieces. 1862 .. 476,768 138,302 1863 .. 408,796 137,416 1864 .. 456,385 146,779 1865 ., 491,080 128,242 1866 .. 542,193 133,550 1867 .. 583,600 135,119 1868 .. 627,828 131,765 1869 .. 635,768 133,769 1870 .. 565,660 113,086 1871 .. 609,698 .114,826 BAVARIA. 11 VI. — Mechanical Weaving Pactory at Pichtelbach. Years. 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 Production. Pieces. 62,250 . 92,650 . ■ 96,900 . 76,020 . 85,460 98,760 . 111,920 . 122,800 . 98,350 . 104,850 VII. — Meclianical Weaving Pactory of Alois Klemmer. Year. 1862 .. 1863 .. 1864 . . 1865.. 1866 .. 1867.. 1868.. 1869 ., 1870.. 1871.. Amount produced. Pieces. 1,200 1,372 1,518 1,730 1,478 1,812 1,852 1,897 1,704 1,983 Vlll. — Mechanical Weaving i'actory ofJj. A. Jiiediriger. Year. Production. Value. Pieces. Florins. 1866 19,538 229,257 1867 39,791 561,053 1868 55,090 646,389 1869 61,603 760,410 1870 57,224 772,524 1871 57,529 788,147 It is to be observed that there are no other cotton spuming and weaving factories here but the eight above adduced. The Stadt Magistrat, (Signed) FINCKE. 12 Belgiam. Mr. Lumley to Earl Granville. My Lord, Brussels, November 26, 1872. On the receipt of yoior LordsMp's circular despatch, of the 20th July last, I instructed Mr. J. G. Kennedy, Second Secretary to this Legation, to draw up a Report furnishing information on certain points connected with factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics in Belgium, asked for by the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland. I have now the honour to transmit to your Lordship the paper on this subject prepared by Mr. J. G. Kennedy, who has taken great pains to procure the desired infor- mation. I have, &c. (Signed) J. SAVILE LUMLEY. Inclosure 1. Mr. J. G. Kennedy to Mr. Lumley. Sir, Brussels, November 25, 1872. I HAVE the honour to submit to you herewith a Eeport which I have prepared on the textile industry of Belgiimi, in accordance with the instructions conveyed in Earl Granville's Circular of the 20th July last. I beg leave to urge in extenuation of the short- comings of the Report, the difficulty which exists in this country of obtaining any trustworthy information respecting textile industries. Most carefully prepared statistical reports are regu- larly published by Government on all matters excepting those relating to manufacturing interests, and the ab- sence of documents on this subject of late years is entirely owing to the unsatisfactory replies made by Chambers of Commerce to official inquiries. BELGIUM. 13 Twice, in 1849 and 1869, Government Committees have applied to the Chambers of Commerce for information respecting factories, and on each occasion the Chambers expressed regret at their inabUity to furnish more com- plete answers, owing to the imperfect information sup- plied by employers of labour, or to their refusal to give any indformation whatever. This reticence of the employers of labour, generally imputed to jealousy of official interference and to sus- picion of fiscal designs, has rather increased of late, specially as regards the question of wages and hours of labour. In justification of their unwillingness to supply information on these latter points, specially to ofl&ciak whose Reports will be published, factory occupiers allege the activity of agents of the International Society, whose constant attempts to excite discontent amongst the operatives are much facilitated by the possession of oflEicially printed documents. The annual Reports of the Chambers of Commerce, excepting that of Verviers and one or two others, exclude any real information respecting industrial establishments in their districts. Under these circumstances it is obviously difficult for an official either to ask or to obtain the special informa- tion necessary for a complete Report on the TextUe Industry of Belgium. I have, &c. (Signed) J. G. KENNEDY. Inclosure 2. Report by Mr. J, G. Kennedy. In order to meet to the best of my ability the -views of the National Association of Eactory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland, as expressed in the Memorial addressed to Her Majesty's Secretary of State for the Home Department, and dated Manchester, July 11, 1872, I propose to report, first on the state of the labour question, and then on the woollen, cotton, and flax trades in Belgium, taking the materials from official dbcuments, and subjoin- ing to each part of the Report such information as I have been able to obtain from personal inquiries with respect 14 BELGIUM. to wages, hours of labour, and expenses of factory operatives. Only Law to force in Belginm. Commission of Enquiry ap- ^ pointed in 1 1843. ^ ' ^portof,- ^^uuimis9iOI1• Employment of Women and Children in Factories and Mines. The only law at present existing in Belgium, for the regulation of labour is an Imperial Decree of January 3, 1813, which prohibits the employment of children under ten years of age in mines.* But during the past thirty years the pressure of public opuiion has caused many attempts to be made to regulate the labour of women and children employed in manu- factures and mines by legislative action. In the year 1843 a Commission of Inquiry was appointed for the purpose of investigating the abuses and evils connected with the question of labour, and of draw- ing up a project of law for their remedy. After a long and conscientious investigation, the Committee published in 1848 the result of its inquiries, clearly proving the disastrous consequences to women and cluldren, as well as to the country, of the existing state of the question, and proposing a law on the subject. This bill, which embraced too many minute points of detail, never became law, owing to the violent opposition of employers of labour and of the Chamber of Commerce to whom it was submitted in 1849. The Commission of Inquiry complaraed of the im- perfect information furnished by employers of labour, especially with regard to children employed in factories ; but in their E/cport they stated that in the 497 labour establishments of Belgium, out of a total of 54,181 operatives there were — "Under 9 years of age From 9 to 12 years pf age „ 12 16 „ 16 21 „ 21 and upwards . . Total Males. 532 1,615 5,638 5,768 29,520 43,075 Females. 164 684 1,881 3,377 5,002 11,108 Total. 696 2,299 7,519 9,145 34,522 54,181 * At this date the word children only applied to boys, as girls were not supposed to work in mines ; but in Belgium the word includes children of both sexes. BELGIUM. 15 that is to say, 3,000 children under twelve years of age, or, in other words, one-eighteenth of the whole factory population of Belgium, working on an average more than twelve hours a-day. The Commission, in an elaborate Report, strongly bui proposed advocated- the necessity of a law restricting the employ- ^yj,*^"™"^ ' m.ent in factories of women and children, and called special attention to the absence of education, of proper attention to health, safety, and morality, and to the want of control by the State over the employers of labour for the protection of the operatives. The opposition of the Chambers of Commerce was opposition to chiefly directed against the recommendations of the ciJIi^Lrsof Commission limitirig the hours of labour of adults to Commerce, twelve hours and a-half, children under fourteen years to six hours and a-half, children from fourteen to eighteen years to ten hours and a-half, and entirely prohibiting the employment in mines of women and girls and of boys under eighteen years at night. The Chambers of Commerce luianimously resisted such interference of the State with the relations between masters and workmen, declaring that such measures would disturb the internal economy of factories. The Chamber of Commerce of Liege pronounced " the ideas of the Commission to be generous but impracticable, and stated that the projected law was disastrous for the work- man, and would prove the ruin of many branches of industry." The same Chamber also remarked that a "father has the strongest interest in the health and strength of his child, and that the State has no right to prevent his deriving benefit from his child's labour, as long as he does not abuse his authority," using, in fact, all the fallacious and stereotyped arguments so familiar in England under the same circumstances. There existed also at this time in Belgium a general disposition to admit and to condemn the horrors connected with the employment of children in English factories, but a not less general denial of the existence of such atrocities in Belgium, where, according to the Beport, "sentiments of humanity prevail and repress acts of . barbarity which elsewhere are punished by law." But in spite of the miscarriage of the proposed law of petitions to 1849, public opinion continued to call for a settlement of Govemmentto the labour question. Two Congresses held at Brussels ia a^mfoTre- 16 BELGIUM. gulation of Children's Labour. Petition of factory occ)i- piers of Ghent of 1853. Project of law of Commercial Chamber of Ghent of 1839. Government Bill of 1859. Opinionsi of Chamber of Commerce. 1852 and 1856 repeated the remonstrances and recom- mendations of the Commission of 1848. The provincial Council of Hainault and the proprietors of coal mines in the district of Mons, discussed the question during four years, from 1852 to 1856, and petitioned the Govern- ment to bring forward a Bill regulating the labour of children in mines. The petition proved by reference to statistics the yearly increasing number of adults in the mining districts who were unfit for military service, and attributing their degeneracy to the employment of children in mines. In 1853, a petition, signed by the chief factory occupiers of Ghent, requested Government to limit labour to twelve hours per day. In 1859 the Chamber of Commerce of Ghent sub- mitted a project of law to the Minister of the Interior for the provisional regulation of the employment of children in flax, cotton, and silk factories. The Chamber stated, as the results of an inquiry into the working of the 39 principal factories in -Ghent, that, in 1858, out of a pop ulat ion^ of JJ,000 workmen, 314 children, ranging 0iKSf^evea to twelve years of age, were employed daily during twelve hours and upwards : and the report goes on to say, "These young children, uneducated, engaged on labour which exceeds their strength, speedily decline in health, and, if not carried off by an early death, lay the foundation of the degeneracy of the next generation." On the basis of the propositions of the Ghent manu- facturers, the Government in 1859 framed a BiLL applicable to all industrial establishments, which was an improvement on that of 1849, inasmuch as it in- terfered far less with the relations between employer and workman, merely placing restrictions on the employment of children, and leaving the question of instruction and of the hours of labour undisturbed. This BUI was sub- mitted to all the Chambers of Commerce, and was favourably received by them on the whole. The Minister of the Interior stated that, although there stiU existed an aversion to Government interference, yet the opinions of the Chambers of Commerce shewed a willing- ness to accept a law forbidding the employment of children under twelve years of age, limiting to twelve the working hours of women and of young workmen, giving periods of repose during the day's work, and complete BELGIUM. 17 repose on Sundays and fete days, framing rules for the internal discipliue of factories, and finally establishing a system of Government inspection. The whole question was next referred to the Superior opinion of Council of Industry and Commerce, appointed in 1859. Superior, f The point chiefly discussed was whether the law was to intotry°i859. be general, or applicable only to certaia industries. The Council finally decided that the law should be general, but that it should remain as a weapon ia the hands of the Government, to be directed by means of Royal Decrees against any industry where abuses were proved to exist. The Council, however, by rejecting the system of Inspectors, proposed to leave the execution of the law to the manufacturers. The propositions of the Council were never debated in the Chamber of Hepresentatives, but formed the subject of frequent discussion in provincial assemblies, and of repeated petitions to Government. Indeed, those most interested in the question of labour recognized naore and more the necessity of a law rendering impossible the abuse by employers of labour of the strength and well- being of their young workmen. In 1868 the Communal Council of Ghent again suIj- mitted a project of law to the Legislative Chambers, and at length, in January 1869, a general debate took place Debate m in the Lower Chamber, consequent on the report of the S'^™''®'" ?f commission of Petitions, on the question of the regulation tiTCs'im * of children's labour in mines and factories. The Bill had numerous supporters, and amongst them the representa- tive of Ghent, but it was opposed by the Ministers of the Interior and of Finance of the then Liberal Government. The Minister of the Interior, while recognizing the theoretical right of the Government to regulate labour, views of declared himself opposed to Government interference in J^'J"'^**' °^ private enterprize. Such interference was not proved to be necessary as regarded factories, nor could it be efB.cacious. If children were prevented by law from working in fac- tories, they would certainly be forced by their parents to work at home, where greater abuses would be committed, and where the law could with diflB.culty exercise any control. The very publicity of factories was in some measure a safeguard against abuses, which in Belgium were not great, and which might be removed by an understanding between employers of labour. The abiises [150] c 18 BELGIUM. Views of Member for Ghent Views of Minister of Finance. Bill referred to Minister'of Interior. Government Circular to | ^ Chambers of < ommerce. complained of were mostly confined to GHent. Why could not tlie local administration place a tax on children em- ployed for more than six hours a day in factories ? The Memher for Ghent disputed the assertions of the Minister, and showed the good results of the Legislative action in England, Prussia, and Prance. He declared that parents in the manufacturing towns of Planders were most anxious to give their children instruction, and would certainly prefer the school-room to the private workshop. The proposed understanding amongst the employers would he a fruitful theme of discord between them and their workmen, and the idea of the suggested tax on children's work was odious and impracticable. In conclusion, he recommended a law for the regulation of children's labour, to be enforced by local authority, subject to the supervision of Government Inspectors. The Minister of Piaance declared that to organize an efficient system of Government inspection in Belgium was most difficult. In Englaiid Government Pactory Inspectors were armed with arbitrary powers, and acted under a system of perfect centralization. These rigorous measures had been loudly called for in England by public opinion. Both the Legislator and Inspector were supported by the voice of the country ; but in Belgium there had never been any great positive movement : on the contrary. Committees of Enquiry had been ap- pointed and projects of law proposed, but they had always been opposed and defeated. The Chamber finally voted a reference to the Minister of the Interior for his report. In March 1869, the Senate reported in favour of a BUI for the regulation of labour, and the Academy of Medicine petitioned the Chambers for the same object. In October of the same year, the Government requested the Chambers of Commerce to supply infor- mation on the following points, so as to be able " shortly again to approach the question of laboxu* in mines or factories :" — 1. Age at which children are generally employed, and number of hours of labour. 2. Employment of children on labour reputed dangerous. 3. Employment of children at night. 4. Employment of children on Sundays and fete days. BELGIUM. ] 9 5. With regard to instruction received by cHldren before admission into factories or during employment in them. The majority of the Chambers of Commerce sent RepUesof answers to all the questions, but remarked that the chambers o , , ri J? 11, -j-j- •■ Commerce. greater number of employers oi labour resisted inquiries respecting the number and ages of children employed by them. Most of the Chambers admitted and deplored the ignorance of operatives, and advocated a law restrict- ing age of admission and hours of labour in factories, &c. Many again asked for a law making education compul- sory, without which restrictions on the hours of labour would be useless. All seemed agreed on the necessity of prohibiting the employment of women and children Tinderground. Liege and Verviers alone denied the necessity of any law, and urged the general adoption of the system of the latter city, as practised successfully between employers of labour. The answers to the different questions may be sutnmarized as follows : — 1. Factories employ but few children (from 400 to Summary of 500) of less than 8 years : they are chiefly employed '^p^*^- in cigar, lace, and thread factories. The same establish- ments employ a certain number of children from 8 to 10 years of age. As regards children from 10 to 12 years, they are very generally admitted into all factories for spinurag and weaving of flax, cotton, and wool, as well as elsewhere. These children from 10 to 12, and often those under 10 years of age, work twelve hours a day, the same as adults. In one town — Jermonde, — ^in blanket factories, fifteen hours a day is often expected of them. In lace making, generally done at home, children are admitted as apprentices at 8 years. Hours of labour from eight to ten per day. In Collieries children under 10 years are sometimes employed at the mouth of the- pit between the ages of 10 and 12 : there are about 2,400 employed — 700 above and 1,700 below ground. 2. But few children are employed in unhealthy or dangerous labour, though at Antwerp a certain number are employed in. the manufacture of cigars and fireworks, and at Alost in match making. ■ 3. Children are not generally employed at night ; but in certain establishments which work night and day, c 2 20 BELGIUM. they are obliged to work at night two or three times a; fortnight. In collieries at least half of the number work at night. 4.- Generally speaking, Sundays and the great fete days are days of rest. 5. Many children under 12 years old have received elementary instruction. But their education is meagre, and usually forgotten after admission into factories, &c. excepting by the few who frequent the adult or Sunday schools. Evening schools are scantily attended; very few employers of labour provide teachers or school rooms within their establishments, so that generally speaking factory children are uneducated. One of the Chambers of Commerce (Roulers) stated, that in its district ia Planders, out of 100 workmen on an average 85 were quite illiterate. Since the above date, 1870, notwithstanding the con- fessedly unsatisfactory state of the question, no legislative action has been taken towards regulating labour. Motion before There is howcvcr at this moment a Notice of Motion Octob^M872 i Tt)efore the Chamber of Representatives, proposing to to prohibit ' ' prohibit the employment in mines of boys under 14 and oS^nd* of girls under 15 years of age, after January 1873 ; but boys in mines, there is Small likcMhood of its becoming law. It is the Eemonstrance subject of a stroug remonstrancc in a report by the Co^m^lTof Chamber of Commerce of Mons, the centre of the mining Mens against district. The report praises the, philanthropy of the proposition, but declares its application to be impossible. There are, observes the report, "not less than 8,000 children under 14 years of both sexes employed in Belgian coal-pits. The aim of the proposed law is to allow children to attend schools up to the ages of 14 and 15 ; but in the first place sufficient school accommodation does not and cannot for years exist, and secondly parents cannot afford and will not submit to be deprived of their children's contributions, to the family expenses for so long a time. Pitmen, to become efficient, must learn their duties whilst young. The proposed law would iajure both workmen and coal owner, and would entail a lesser extraction and a higher price of coal, to the prejudice of all industrial interests in the country." .„ ,„,„„ „ „ T]ie foregoing sketch of the state of the labour ques- iawforregu- tiou in Belgium shows that it has been exhaustively lationof discussed by all competent authorities throughout the Mot Public feeling in favour of a BELGHTJM. 21 country, and that no solution of the cliflQ.culty has yet labour of heen found. It can be stated that the opinions of the diMren!" Chambers of Commerce, always excepting those of Liege and Verviers — which undoubtedly represent the most prosperous and intelligent industrial districts in Belgium — of all the learned and philanthropical societies of the public generally, and of the occupiers of large factories, are in favour of a law regulating the labour of women and children in. factories and mines. All equally deplore the increasing moral and physical degeneracy of the working classes, which they attribute to the premature employment of children, and to the consequent absence of instruction. At the last Census in 1866, out of a total population of 4,827,833, more than , half, or 2,548,742,* were returned as unable either to read or write. This mass of ignorance exists, mainly in the mining districts of Hainault, and in the manufacturing districts of Manders. But it cannot be denied tha;t the solution of the ques- Diffciity of tion by the Legislature is difficult of accomplishment, labour*!^ The Belgians are remarkably jealous of their personal LegisiatioH. liberty, and always ready to resent any Government interference. The parties most specially interested — the occupiers of the smaller factories and workshops, and their workm.en — believe that in this thickly populated country, where competition is so keen, any restriction on labour would cause the ruin of their establishments. Another difficulty is the low rate of wages, which makes it well nigh impossible for the majority of parents in the operative class to forego the advantage of allowing their children to earn money at an age when they ought to be learning to read and write.- BeYiewing these conflicting interests, it appears that Compulsory the only solution of the difficulty would be compulsory possible"" education, which once firmly enforced would render solution of comparatively easy the enactment of measures for the ' "^ ^' regulation of labour. But in Belgium, where political parties are evenly balanced and keenly antagonistic, no Government has as yet felt itself strong enough to pro- pose a Bill on a matter which would provoke great opposition, and which would rouse the passions insepar- able from educational questions in a country where Tuatters of religion play so large a part in politics. * This comprises 889,154 children, under seven years of age. 22 BELGIUM. Endeavours of private persons to ameliorate condition of working Caisses de secours at Liege, Lodging- houses for workmen Association for reform of children's labour at j Verviers. ' Statutes of society. Meanwhile, in the presence of the inability of the- Government to remedy the evil, much is done by private persons, employers of labour, and by provincial and municipal authorities, to ameliorate the condition of the workiug classes. Every commune has its school, Where instruction is given gratuitously to poor persons— but of which the operative class does not much avail itself. Every manufacturing district and town has savings banks, and co-operative societies, and " conseils der prud'hommes," or councUs of arbitration between master and workman, and "caisses de prevoyance" and " caisses de secours " in case of sickness or accident. With regard to these "caisses de secours," great satisfaction was last year given to the operatives in liege by the abolition in some of the great industrial establishments of stoppages on wages. The employers of labour have undertaken to defray out of their own pockets the expenses of medical attendance, and of pensions in cases of sickness or accidents. The Government has come to the assistance of societies for providing lodging houses for workmen, by remitting certain taxes; but these lodging houses are only within the reach of foremen and of the higher paid workmen. About three years ago an " association for the reform of children's labour" was formed at Verviers — a plan which according to official reports has hitherto worked successfully, and which has frequently been recom- mended to occupiers of factories for general adoption by different Chambers of Commerce. This society was founded in 1869, and was originally composed of thirty- five members, of whom thirty-one were employers of labour, two merchants, one medical man, and one professor. According to its statutes, the object of the society is to induce employers of labour and fathers of working families not to exhaust the powers df- children by too severe or too early labour. As a means of attaining this object, the society binds employers of labour — 1. Not to employ children under 12 years of age for labour of 12 hours' duration. 2. To exact from children of 12 years ahd upw^trds a knowledge of reading and writing, or a promise to acquire it. BELGIUM. 23 3. To permit children upwards of 12 who may request it, to work only half the day on the condition of their attendance at school during the other half. 4. To employ only as an exceptional measure, and for only six hours a day, children under 12 years who may, owing, to the poverty of their parents, or for some other reason, be obliged to work at that age ; and to compel them to attend a school during the other sis hours. From inquiries made at Verviers, I learnt that this Working of Association does not flourish, that but few oecupiers of B°ewS* factories belong to it, and that some even amongst the members' allow spinners employed on piece work to bring their children to the factory to help them. These children are not entered on the books of the establish- ment, but are paid, or supposed to be paid, by their parents. There is a general lamentation over the iatemperate improvident and improvident character of the working classes re- opSoM," corded in the E-eports of the Chambers of Commerce for 1871 ; but, excepting a general expresssion of hope that the Government should ameliorate their condition and provide for their instruction, no remedy is suggested. Another point mooted in these E-eports is the existence intemationalj of the International Society, and the active attempts of its Society, agents to organize strikes amongst the workmen. The Society counts many members amongst the operatives throughout Belgium, who continually urge their fellow- workmen to resort to strikes for higher wages,, promising that funds shall be forthcoming for the support of those out of work. But last year, during a partial strike in Flanders, the Society, from want of funds, was unable to fulfil its promises of support, and the operatives were obliged to resume work without the attainment of their object, and incensed with the Society for having duped them. Since that time the International has lost credit with the operatives, and many have withdrawn from it. The employers of labour with whom I have had oppor- tunities of conversing, affirmed that although the danger stUl lurks, for the present, at least, the working of the Society gives them no cause for alarm. In consequence of the genera;l prosperity of trade strikes in xluring 1871, higher wages were obtained by operatives, Belgium, and usually without difficulty or disturbance. No strikes 24 BELftlUM. Strikes ia Brossels. Cheapness of Belgian pro- ducts is cause of their Introductory remarks. Prosperity of Belgian tradis in 1871. of any importance were anywhere recorded in Flanders ; but in the districts of Yerviers and Nivelles, and in the City of Brussels, they are stated to have been the order of the day. At Verviers, strikes, according to the Report of the Chamber of Commerce, are no longer carried out by factories but by trades, and last year were more especially organized by machinists and builders, by which the woollen industry was indirectly but not seriously affected. In Brussels, strikes are regularly organized, and are effected in one factory or workshop at a time, so that those employed caru easily assist those on strike. The E-eport of the Brussels Chamber of Commerce devotes some space to prove to artisans that they are at the same time the authors and victims of strikes ; but there is no doubt that last year the machinists of Brussels improved their position- immensely by obtaining a reduction of the hours of labour to ten, with a higher rate of pay for extra work, and the adoption of piece work. The E-eport, however, points out with truth that cheapness of production is the chief cause of the prosperity of Belgian trade, and warns the working classes • that if by their continued demands this relative cheapness becomes impossible, Belgian manufacturers will no longer be able to compete successfully with their rivals abroad. Wool, Cotton, and Flax. The reports received from all parts, of Belgium agree that the year 1871 was one of, the most prosperous ever known for the textile industry of the country. Belgian manufacturers profiting by the absence of th'? usual competition owing to the forced inactivity of German and Erench factories during the war, and taking advan- tage of the low prices reaUsed by wool, flax, and cotton in the winter of 1870-71, were enabled to lay in stocks of raw material at a cheap rate, and also to obtain for their goods new markets. Several industrial establish- ments in Manders anticipated the demand, and on the conclusion of peace were able to supply great quantities of manufactured goods for the requirements of Germany and France. The only cause for anxiety was the difference pending between Great Britain and the United States, and great BELGIUM. -Id satisfaction has been publicly expressed in commercial and industrial circles at the termination of the dispute and its mode of settlement. With Erance commerce has been naturally iaterrupted, Apprehensions nor is there any present symptom of its renewal. The commercial reports of all the Chambers of Commerce for the past poUcy. year contaui strictures more or less severe on the return of France to a system of protection, and call upon the GoTernment to protect Belgian industrial interests, which they state are threatened, as regards France, with anni- hilation by the proposed French Tariff. The Chamber of Commerce of Verviers, in alluding to commercial relations with France, says, " The French Government, in the hope of re-establishing its finances, is adopting the detestable system of protection — the system which has destroyed our market in the United States, and we fear that a similar future awaits us in France." But it is believed that these fears are much exaggerated, and that Fears of results the only industry which is seriously threatened is that poifjy^ugi, of the linen hand- weavers of Flanders, who are employed exaggerated, in weaving for Belgian manufacturers a fine linen, specially prepared for the French market. The average export value of this tissue has been about 8,000,000 francs. Belgian cotton goods have never found any consider- able outlet in France, the exports declared for France being almost enth*ely for transit to Italy or for re- exportation to America. The woollen trade of Belgium, although its exports to Belgian France have of late years averaged 40,000,000 of francs, '™°"^° *'"'''^^- is quite independent of any one country, and is not likely to suffe" in the event of a higher import duty being imposed in France. Towards Germany, Belgium woollen tissues have withGer- during the past two years been exported to a remarkable "''°^' extent. The increased sale for these goods is explained by the unusual demand for military clothing, to satisfy which the German manufacturers confined themselves to the supply of that article, leaving the field open to the comparatively finer qualities of woollen goods produced chiefly at Verviers. The increase in the export of Belgian woollen yarns WooUen yam has been stUl greater, as stated in the following Table ^^p""'" taken from oflS.cial sources : — 26 BELailTM. Increase in exports to Germany. Wool, import of. Year. / Germany. England. Elsewhere. Total. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. 1863 20,400' 986,200 147,300 1,153,900 1864 350,500 1,700,200 248,000 2,298,700 1865 378,500 1,578,500 447,100 2,204,100 1866 353,500 1,521,800 485,700 2,360,800 1867 927,100 846,500 257,100 2,030,700 1868 1,314,500 ] ,792,200 371,100 3,477,800 1869 1,404,000 3,609,800 636,900 5,650,700 1870 1,365,600 3,350,800 409,100 5,232,500 1871' 2,061,900 3,962,100 260,500 6,284,500 These figures sliow an increase in exports not only towards Germany but also to England. England com- menced to import Belgian woollen yams in 1862, under the pressure of the American Civil War, since which time, with the exception of the year 1867, the amount imported has increased. The first marked iucrease in the exportation of Belgian woollen yarn to Germany occurred in 1867. At this period the Belgian spinners not finding their usual market in Scotland, turned their attention to Germany,^ and pushing their way by degrees, they have now obtairied a sure market for the sale of their yams in the Rhenish Provinces, Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria and Austria. The good quality of the woollen yams of Verviers besides their relative cheapness — their special character which renders them so available for the manufacture of woollen tissues, which are warm and light, — ^has caused them to be preferred to the native products in Germany, It has also been observed that whilst Belgium exports yam of pure wool into Saxony, the latter country seDs the greater amount of its yarn composed of mixed wool and cotton to Scotland. According to ofi&cial returns, Belgium imported wool as follows : — 1841-50. 1851-60. 1861-65. 1869. 1870. 1871. Imports . . Product of country . , Tons. 3,992 2,000 Tons. 9,000 2,000 Tons. 19,477 2,000 Tons. 47,372 2,000 Tons. 42,152 2,000 Tons. 51,715 2,000 Total . Exports declared to be of Belgian origin 5,992 402 11,000 1,600 21,477 2,042 . 49,372 1,292 44,152 1,463 53,715 2,197- Consumption 5,590 9,400 19,435 48.080 42,689 51,518 BELGIUM. 27 The cessation of imports during 1870 was only momentary. The imports in 1871 exceeded those of any preceding year. The official returns of the port of Antwerp give the amounts of wool received from the following countries : — From. 1867. 1869. 1870. 1871. Bales. Bales. Bales. Bales. La Plata, direct 92,747 118,125 123,260 144,690 „ indirect . . 7,663 4,947 12,324 18,275 Russia 2,416 823 5,222 3,122 Cape of Good Hope . . 4,097 6,837 8,450 11,325 England . . 14,106 68,347 34,000 58,000 Other countries 4,854 4,102 4,911 6,877 Total . . 125,883 193,881 188,167 242,289 With the exception of those from Russia, the imports in 1871 have heen greater than in any previous year. The export of wool during 1871, according to official Export of wool statistics, has more than doubled that of 1870 : it has risen from 23,000,000 kilog. to 48,000,000, of which 20,000,000 went to France, and 20,000,000 to Germany. So great was the deniand from Germany and else- Activity of where that the price of wool rose 60 per cent, during ^°°\ *™''* "* 1871. Many new factories were established in Belgium, and so keen was speculation that wool was known to change hands as often as ten times before reaching the consumer. Wool washing was most successfully carried on, and also a means for utilising the residue of potash left in the water. Waste wool unfitted for the usual mechanical cleansing has been successfully handled by mechanical processes. Belgium imported in 1871 nearly 600,000 kilog. more WooUenyam than in 1870, but these inaported yams are almost ""^°'*'' entirely of combed wool and of a different quality from those made in Belgium. From. France •EnglftBid . . Zollverein . , Other countries Total . . 1868. Kilog. 617,300 97,900 25,200 8,500 748,900 1869. Kilog. 530,700 54,500 42,100 5,600 632,900 1870. Kilog. 460,900 64,800 57,300 2,100 585,100 1871. Kilog. 572,700 87,100 36,900 3,330 700,000 28 BELGIUM. ■Woollen yam export^. The export of woollen yarns in 1871 exceeded 6,000,000 of kilog. wMcli is triple the amount exported in 1867, and 1,300,000 more than in 1870 : the difference is the more remarkable owing to the increased value of the article : — Kilog. Fr. c. Fr. In 1868 were exported 3,477,000, at 5 75 = about 20,000,000 1869 „ 4,627,700, 5 50 -' „ 26,455,000 ' 1870 „ 4,926,800, 5 90 = „ 29,000,000 1871 6,284,500, 7 25 = 45,600,000 Destination of woollen yarns. The past year was one of great activity, but not of great prosperity for spinners of yam, many of whom during the summer were obhged to buy wool at high prices, in order to execute orders undertaken when the raw material was comparatively cheap. In November large orders were received from Scotland. The following Table shows the destiaation of woollen yams exported from Belgium : — To. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1871. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. Zollverein . . 1,314,500 1,404,000 1,381,000 2,063,400 Switzerland. 81,700 96,800 87,000 , , England . . 1,792,200 2,609,800 3,031,800 3,962,100 France . 254,300 471,700 315,900 204,700 HoUand . . 30,700 35,500 44,100 24,200 Other countries 4,400 9,900 67,000 31,100 Total . . 3,477,800 4,627,700 4,926,800 6,284,500 Producing power of Verviers. The greatest increase has been towards Germany, and the greatest decrease towards France. Towards Scotland there was an increase of 1,000,000 kilog. in 1871. In the district of Verviers, the seat of the woollen industry, there are about 480,000 spindles, of which 200,000 spin yarn for the manufacture of tissues in Bel- gium, and 280,000 woollen yam, destined for exportation. It is calculated at Verviers that a spindle working regularly twelve hours a day produces half a kUog. of yam per week, which gives a total production of the above- mentioned spindles of 140,000 kilog. of yarn per week, or of about 7,300,000 kilog. per annum. Of this quantity, as stated above, about 6,300,000 kilog. are exported, leaving about 1,000,000 for Belgian consumption. This latter amount, however, comprises the inevitable deficit BELGIUM. 29 arising from accidental stoppages, &c, to wMch all industrial estabUshments are liable. In 1871 Belgian imports of woollen tissues exceeded Tissues of j for tbe first time 2,000,000 fr. But tbis apparent increase ^m rat is partly accounted for by tbe higber value of wool. Tbe following Table gives in francs tbe amount of imports of woollen tissues : — From. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1871. ZoUverein . . England . . France Others Frs. . 535,900 598,900 225,300 11,600 Frs. 717,600 649,700 293,900 16,300 Frs. 679,300 774,700 410,600 ' 9,200 Frs. 748,800 836,300 477,400 10,900 Total . . 1,371,700 1,677,500 1,873,800 2,073,400 Taking as a basis tbe price of 16 fr. per kilog. adopted in 1871 as tbe official value, we find tbe amount to be 130,000 kilog., or exactly tbe same as in 1870. Taking tbe usual weigbt of 12 kilog. per piece, we obtain a total of 10,800 pieces. Tbe goods imported are almost- entirely of tbe finer qualities. Tbis applies to- all imports. In 1871 tbe exports of Belgian woollen tissues surpassed tbe amount of 2,032,800 kilog. exported in 1867. Destination. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1871. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. ZoUverein . . 271,200 347,200 453,000 849,300 Holland . . 159,600 105,200 150,600 241,700 England . . 433,100 426,600 545,000 533,900 France 635,700 746,200 489,000 349,800 United States , , 27,900 6,700 42,000 Italy 122,700 141,400 51,400 2,400 Switzerland . 143,400 -115,800 79,000 2,800 Others 79,800 88,400 76,300 91,800 Total . . 1,845,500 1,998,700 1,850,000 2,113,700 Woollen tissues Export. Towards Germany tbe amount of woollens exported To Germany. has almost doubled. Towards England tbe a;mount does not materially cbange, but almost aU tbe woollen tissues exported to England are for re-exportation across tbe to England. Atlantic. Witb regard to tbe United States tbere has been an 30 BELGIUM. To United States. Present year less prosperous than 1871. Belgian 'wooUen goods of coarse j ■quality. Trada with France. | Wages and] hoursoflabour, &c., at Verviers. apparent increase, but whether a greater amount has been imported by the United States, or whether this is owing to the direct transport of a greater amount, is difficult to decide. It is, however, certaiu that in. 1871 an amount of 42,500 kilog. or 3,550 pieces (at 12 kUog. per piece) were suppKed to that country; and it is hoped that the gradual reduction of American import duties will re-open this once important market to Belgian goods. There are about 440 carding machines at Verviers, and great mechanical improvements have been recently introduced. The above remarks have been compiled almost en- tirely from official sources and from the Report of the Verviers Chamber of Commerce, and apply to the woollen trade of last year. During a recent visit to Verviers I learnt that the pre- sent year has been far from prosperous. The mills for the manufacture of tissues have not ceased to work, but em- ploy fewer hands and work shorter time than last year; while those for the spinning of yam for export have done little or nothing for the past six months. This is accounted for partly by the high price of wool and partly by the absence of orders from Glasgow, where it is sup- posed considerable stocks of last year's importation remain in hand. Verviers woollen goods are of a coarser description than those of England. The yam is made from Buenos Ayres wool, and destined chiefly for Glasgow, where it is made into woollen shirts for workmen and sailors. The tissues are imitated from Erench designs, and exported to Germany, Italy and America. The United States import yearly larger quantities of Belgian woollen tissues. Goods of combed wool are not made at Verviers. There is one factory which uses combed wool for the manufacture of knitting wools. The feeling at Verviers with regard to the eflfect of the protective policy of Erance, is, that an increase of 2 per cent, on woollen yam will not affect the trade. It is believed that Belgian woollen yam will continue to be bought by Erance, which country has always taken a considerable quantity of Verviers carded woollen yam in exchange for Erench combed woollen yam. In one of the principal factories of Verviers for the spinning and weaving of wool, which last year employed BELGIUM. 31 1,000. operatives, but is now working shorter time with 560 hands (450 men, 70 women, and 40 children), the average wages are as follows : — , Fr. c. Weavers . . per day 3 00 Wool carders . . 2 50 Spinners 3 50 Dyers 2 50 Fullers „ 2 50 Burlers (women) 1 70 Foremen receive from 4 to 5 fr . a day ; hours of labour from 7 A.M. to 7 P.M. with about one hour and a half interval of repose. The above rates of wages were given to me by the factory owner, and calculated on the average yearly earn- ings of the last three or four years. He said that in busy times his factory hands come early to the mill and stay late, eamilig more than the above amount per day ; but during such periods of prosperity they often absent themselves for two or three days' dissipation. At the present time (October) work being slack, most hands do not commence work before 8 or 9 a.m., and all leave oflf at 7 P.M., the amount of their earnings being less than those stated in the above Table. As a rule, in Verviers all factory hands are paid by weight or piece. It is calculated that a- good weaver earns on an average 1,000 fr. (40Z.) a year, on which he can live decently and support a family. Last year during the busy season a good weaver sometimes earned 10 fr . a day on piecework by working late ; but, as stated above, his year's income did not exceed 40Z. An operative who, after payment of his rent, has not 50 c. to expend per head on his family, is relieved by the Caisse de Secours. "Working men's lodgings cost from 6 to 12 fr. a month. Buring the past ten years wages have gradually increased 20 per cent., and working hours are shorter; in fact, the operatives now refuse to work after 7 p.m. at any price. The Verviers factory occupiers declare the "Walloons to be good workmen, but improvident, spending their money as fast as they make it, and rarely conung to the mill on Mondays. They certainly look more intelligent, better fed and clothed than the factory operatives in Flanders. 32 BELGIUM. Cotton. Backward state of cotton trade in Belgium. Cotton, import of. The above-mentioned factory occupier informed me that Verviers was a focus of the International Society, but that hitherto factory hands had not given much trouble. Those of the operatives who belonged to the Society were generally known to the employers, who made a point of dispensing with their services in slack times. It is generally admitted that the flax and cotton industries of Belgium have remained stationary during the past ten years. They shared in the exceptional pros- perity of 1871, but not to the same extent as the wooUen trade of Yerviers. The past year was prosperous for the cotton trade, chiefly on account of the low price of cotton during the winter of 1870-71, and owing to the partial failure of the flax crop, which occasioned an unusual activity in the cotton trade. The last Report of the Ghent Chamber of Conunerce, which represents the seat of the cotton and flax trade of the country, asserts that the cotton mUls of Ghent, by the constant introduction of new machinery, have kept themselves on a level with those of England. This may be the case with a few of the priucipal factories, but sta- sistics prove that the population of Ghent diminishes yearly, that many of the smaller establishments have ceased to work, or have been removed elsewhere. A still more conAoncing proof of the backward state of the cotton trade is the fact, that it is the only protected industry in Belgium. According to official Beturns, Belgium imported cotton as foUows : — Ghent ootton mills. In 1868. In 1869. In 1870. In 1871. Kilog. 16,184,565 Kilog. 16,287,173 Kilog. 16,335,453 Kilog. 25,527,000 Belgium possesses about 800,000 spindles for cotton spinning. There are in Ghent 29 large cotton mills worMng about 480,000 spindles, and employing about 4,800 opera- tives, of which 40 per cent, are men, 35 per cent, women,, and 25 per cent, children. . One mill contains 100,000 spindles, and 15 others 10,000 and upwards. BELGIUM. 33 All these mills are now working full time, but owing mainly to the higher price of cotton this year will be far less prosperous than the last. Of the 29 cotton factories of Ghent only one regularly manufactures goods for the EngHsh market. In 1871 this factory, contaiaing 65,000 spindles, exported goods to the value of 1,000,000 fr., such as calico ready for printing, bed curtains, window blinds, &c. This factory manufactures finer tissues than the others in Ghent. The other mill s chiefl.y produce yarn of coarse quality Cotton yarn» for home consumption, of which much goes to Alost to "^^utj^^ be twisted into sewing thread, and to St. Nicholas to be coloured and converted into fancy goods. Of cotton tissues much goes to Italy and Spain Cotton tissues, through Prance, and yearly increasing quantities are ^^p""*** exported to America through England and France. It is asserted that Belgian goods of the coarser sorts are exported to England, to be re-exported thence as British manufacture. According to the official returns of the Port of Cotton imports Antwerp, cotton was imported into Belgium at that port Antwerp, as follows : — 1870. 1871. Kilog. Kilog. From Prussia 2,978 315 Hanseatic Towns 3,062 5,185 Holland . . 29,881 39,136 England . . 10,864,190 9,329,560 Frf-^nce 2,541,828 248,428 Switzerland 5,847 7,018 India , , 2,798,261 United States 512,227 6,704,524 British Possessions . 515,123 Hayti 162,440 19,550 Brazil 225,134 502,159 Colombia . . , , 3,880 Rio 796,274 Chili 28,906 155,200 Peru •• 50,634 Total • 14,376,493 21,175,247 Prom England, Prance, Prussia, and Hayti, a lesser quantity has been imported than in 1870, wMle the imports from India, United States, British Possessions, [150] D 34 BELGIUM. Distribution of cotton im- ported at Antwerp. Brazil, Colombiaj Eio, Chile, and . Peru, have largely- increased. The distribution of the amount of 20 odd millions of kilog. imported in 1871, is, according to the Antwerp Chamber of Commerce, as follows : — About 7,500,000 for Belgian consumption and exportation, 11,000,000 for transit, and the remaining 2,561,425 Idlog. were in stock at Antwerp in December 1871. The 7,500,000 were thus distributed :— Kilog. For Belgium . . . . . , 3,231,874 Germany, Switzerland, and Alsace . . 2,470,000 France. .. .. .. 1,425,000 England . . . . . , 285,000 Total 7,411,874 Cotton yarn, Cotton yams wcrc imported at the Port of Antwerp import of. as follows :— 1871. 1870. From Prussia HoUand .. England . . France Kilog. 1,682 1,130 366,097 51 Kilog. 2,038 299 381,547 218 Total 368,960 384,102 Of the amount imported from England in 1871, 225,605 kQog. were placed in bond. Cotton tissues, Cotton tissues Were, imported into Belgium at the import of. Port of Antwerp, as follows : — 1871. 1870. Kilog. Kilog. From Prussia 9,ft93 -20 3,323-50 Holland .. 1,586-50 3,339 00 England . . 71,389-80 60,060 -50 France 4,995 -90 3,848 -80 Switzerland . 3,714-10 2,952 -20 United States 952-00 •• Total 91,731 -50 73,578 -00 Of the above total amount, 536,826 kilog. were for BELGIUM. 35 ^transit through Belgium, and of the amount imported from England 912-80 kilog. were placed in bond.* Tulles, lace, and blondes of cotton were imported at Antwerp. 1871. 1870. i"rom Holland . . England . . France Switzerland . KUog. 15,226 12,900 Kilog: 530 7,370 3,786 3,000 Total 28,126 14,686 The amount from Holland was for bond, that from England for consumption. Of tissues of cotton, not specially mentioned in the Tariff, there were imported 98,371 kilog. in 1871 against 65,283 kilog. in 1870. Of the former amount 81,057 kilog. from England were for consumption, the amount from other countries being for bond. The following Table gives the amount of exports of coiton yams yarn and tissues of cotton from Belgium by the Port of ^""^ tissues c.t- Antwerp in 1871:- rntwer?" * There are four different sorts of transit : — Direct transit is when goods are at once sent through Belgium %^'^?"."f "without heing bonded or declared for consumption in Belgium. Beleium Indirect transit in bond is when goods are re-exported after havin" been bonded. Indirect transit by transformation is when foreign products are admitted duty free on condition ' of being worked up in Belgium and re-exported as manufactured goods. Indirect transit for consumption is when merchandize is admitted duty free, declared at first to be for consumption and afterwards re- -exported. D 2 36 BELGIUM. Factory opera- tive hours of labour, wages, &c. Yarn. Tissues. Kilofr. Kilog. To Russia 297 680- Denmark 592 . ■ Uanseatic Towns 812 192,505 Holland 8,180 61,751 •England 11,239 756,221 France 1,945 259,798 Spain 2,274 Italy 4,613 Austria , , 176 Turkey , , 68 United States.. , , 10,853 Mexico , , 178 Cuba , , 4,264- Brazil 178 123,548 Uruguay 80,642 Rio . . , , 103,231 Chili , , 94,574 Peru •• 31,867 Total in 1871 23,243 1,727,243 „ in 1870 50,992 848,759 One of the principal factory owners of Ghent was good enougli to take me over his own and other cotton mills. In his mill for the spinning and wearing of cotton which contains 7.7,000 spindles and employs ahout 400 operatives, of whom 40 per cent, were women, I observed in one spinning house that all the machinery was made, as is generally the case in Ghent, by Piatt and Co. of Oldham, and was dated 1872. The cotton used was from Egypt. In this mill the wages averaged, according to my informant, from 2 to 5 fr. a day for men, and from 1 to 2 fr. 50 c. for women, aU paid by weight of goods produced or by piece. In one room were self-acting mules containing each 1,100 spindles, attended to by one spinner, an assistant, and two smaU boys. The spinner paid by weight of yam produced could doubtless earn up to 5 and 6 fr. a day. In the weaving department women only were employed. One woman managed two looms, and might earn from 2 to 3 fr. a day, according to number of pieces woven. But I have reason to believe that the average wages in all the great cotton mills in Ghent do not exceed 2 to 3 fr. for men, 1 to 2 fr. for women, and 50 c. to 1 fr. for children. BELGIUM. 37 Working hours are from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., with one and a-half hours' rest. On Mondays work ceases at 4 P.M. Children in Ghent are rarely received into the larger estahlishments until after their first communion — i.e., from 11 to 12 years of age. Two mills have schools attached to them, where, in slack times, an hour's instruction is given to the children, but the half-time system is nowhere adopted. Much is done by private persons for the material and moral improvement of the operatives, and the latter are certainly better dressed and lodged than was the case five years ago. Education is beginning to be appreciated by them, and they are anxious to allow their children to learn to read and write. The two or three factory occupiers whom I met Advantageous asserted that they could not pretend to compete with p°^1''™ °^ _,-,__-«', „^ , .-, J-.-, TT British as corn- England. Manchester manuiacturers, they said, could pared with select their cotton on its arrival at Liverpool close to f^^^ *°"°° their mills. Coal was cheaper and handier at Manchester than in Ghent. England, again, was the only producer of good machinery, and likewise possessed ready markets for her products in her vast colonial possessions. And, lastly, English operatives were far superior to Elemish. On this latter point all were agreed that the Englishman, being better fed, possesses greater physical power, and produces as much work in ten as the Fleming in twelve hours ; and, having greater intelligence and mechanical knowledge, comprehends the machinery he works, and can point out to the foreman in case of obstruction the cause of the accident, whereas in Ghent half an hour is constantly lost in seeking for the cause of a stoppage in the machinery. Flax, Hemp, and Tow. The trade in flax, hemp, and tow shared largely in the general prosperity of the past year. The yield of the flax crop, calculated at from 870 to piax crop of 900 kilog. per hectare of an average value of 2-25 fr. per i87i abundant, kilog., was very abundant; but, owing to the violent qulitty!""^ thunderstorms during the month of June, the cultivators took up the flax before maturity to the detriment of its quality. The failure of the flax crop in Russia and 38 BELGIUM. Belgian flax of fine quality imported by England. Belgian flax spinners pro- duce only coarse yarns. Ireland, however, caused a run on the Belgian market during the autumn, and the flax, in spite of its ahun- dance and bad quality, was sold to foreign buyers at high prices. During the autumn, flax, yams, and tissues were largely bought by Prench buyers in anticipation of a rise in the Prench import duties, and the Belgian manufac- turers, having supplied themselves at low prices during the first six months of the year, realised large profits towards its close. An unusual quantity of flax was last year steeped ia the Lys, viz., 28,184,700 kilog. Almost all the finer qualities of Belgian flax, called " flax of the Lys," from its being steeped in that river, is bought by England and partly returned as yarn, Belgian spinners importing coarse B;ussian, and confining themselves to the produc- tion of coarse yams. According to official returns, the imports and exports during the last four years were as follows : — 1868 1869 1870 1871 Imports. Kilog. 25,123,341 29,893,349 41,286,412 33,777,912 Exports. Kilog. 21,359,761 17,395,822 22,919,743 37,371,292 Average prices and quantities of flax ex- portedin 1871. The average prices and proportionate quantities of flax exported were- as foUows during 1871 : — Per cent. .. 28 .. 27 .. 17 .. 11 8 5 3 1 Shreds of flax. The average price and proportionate quantities of ^mouchures or shreds of flax exported during 1871 were as foUows : — 1st quality 2nd „ 3rd „ Hemp. The year 1871 produced a good hemp crop, calciilated Fr. c. Fr. c. rom 2 00 to 2 60 per kilog. „ 2 60 to 3 00 „ 3 00 to 3 50 „ 3 50 to 4 00 „ 4 00 to 4 50 „ 4 50 to 5 00 „ 5 00 to 5 50 „ 6 00 Fr. c. Per cent 90 per kilog. . . .. 25 75 .. 38 60 „ .. 37 BELGIUM. 39 at 1,400 kilog. per hectare, witli about 10 hectolitres of seed, the -price of raw hemp averaging 1 fr. per kilog. • At the port of Antwerp 4,157,351 kilog. of Hussiaa and Eiga hemp were imported, or about double the quantity imported during the preceding year. Russian hemp sold at rather less and Riga rather more than 100 fr. per 100 kilog. The export of tow rose from 3,772,354 kUog. in 1870 Tow. to 8,102,905 kilog. in 1871. The imports for the two years amounted to about 7,000,000 kilog. The foUowing Return of the trade in flaxen yam Fia^enyam. shows a steady decrease of imports, and increase of exports : — 1871. 1870. 1869. Imports . Exports . Kilog. 1,294,698 7,542,1^9 Kilog. 1,665,013 6,013,689 Kilog. 2,028,492 5,098,340 The yarns imported are mostly those of finer quality, but complaints are made of the import duties imposed on the yams of jute and shreds of flax used for sacking, &c. The foUowing is the official return of the imports of Yams of to, the yarns of flax, hemp, and jute, of all qualities at the im™or T ^° Port of Antwerp from Prussia, Holland, England, and Prance. 1871. 1870. From Prussia Holland . . England . . France Kilog. 5,337 3,609 54,541 17,734 Kilog. 5,878 800 52,178 72,170 Total .. 81,121 131,026 Of this the greater part, or 63,745 kilog., was placed in bond in 1871 to be used under the regulation which permits the Belgian manufacturer to withdraw it fcee of duty on condition of re-exportation of an equal quantity in manufactured goods — a privilege which has proved highly advantageous to the hnen trade, and has been one of the chief causes of its development as regards America. 40 BELGIUM. Tissues of flax STATEMENT of the imports of the tissucs of flax, hemp, imports. g^jjjj ^Q^ g^^ Ij^g Pqj.^ qJ Antwerp during the years 1870 and 1871. 1871. 1870. Kilog. Kilog. From Russia , , 315 Sweden and Norway. . 24,400 150 Prussia 4,825 2,960 Hanseatic Towns 1,000 2,032 Holland .. 36,574 6,992 England . . 1,033,046 935,802 France 75,111 68,054 Spain , , 125 United States 17,250 1,300 Cuba 33 Rio de la Plata 2,378 3,603 Total 1,194,611 1,021,366 Tarn and tissues of flax, hemp and tow. Exports from port of Antwerp. Statement of the exports of yam and tissues of flax, hemp, and tow exported from the Port of Antwerp. Flax Yam. Flax, Hemp, and Tow Flax Tissues, other than Plain and Tissues. Twilled. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. To Russia 7,546 1,013 3,000 Sweden 7,367 7,417 5,500 Denmark 427 6,000 Prussia 1,609- 3,210 , , Hanseatic Towns 13,075 138,051 81,580 Holland 74,508 198,811 114,685 England 498,613 179,716 100,270 France 28,525 91,999 64,690 Spain 407,511 11,435 4,500 Gibraltar 739. .395 2,000 Italy 43,744 1,076 , , Greece 628 , , Turkey 20,935 238 9,150 United States. . , , 898 7,000 Mexico . 48 Guatemala 126 Cuba 229,390 39,360 Brazil 4,429 21,028 90,250 Uruguay 691 28,054 21,200 Rio . . 1,053 35,425 34,725 Chili 520 13,653 Peru 850 •■ ■• Total in 1871 1,112,341 962,410 583,912 „ in 1870 650,317 732,761 744,108 BELGIUM. 41 It will be observed that tlie above figures show an increasing increasing activity in the port of Antwerp ; and although of\ntwe^' this was at first doubtless caused by the diversion of trade from its accustomed channels during the late war, which turned the export trade of South Germany and Switzerland from Prance to Belgium, the well known tendency of transit trade to remain in any given line which it may have taken, however accidentally, and the low rates charged for the carriage of tissues through Belgium, give every hope that this prosperity may- continue. And the Government are doing all in their Proposed power to ensure this end by increasing the transport ^elsurSfor rolling stock and sanctioning a second line of railway development of to connect Antwerp with Germany. There will also, in Antwe'^)!"'' °^ all probability, be shortly established a direct line of ocean steamers between Antwerp and the United States. Almost the whole population of the two Elanders factories and may be said to be engaged, directly or indirectly, in the tires. °^^'^'^" linen trade, from the cultivation of flax on the banks of the Lys and steeping it in the adjoining ditches, tUl the manufactured article is ready for sale. The spinning is done in eighteen or nineteen steara-power mills con- taining about 222,000 spindles, and employing 10,000 , hands. The weaving, on the contrary, is mostly done by hand by men working at home or in "ateliers d'apprentissage." There are, indeed, only three or four large steam-power weaving factories in Belgium, it being the custom for manufacturers to supply artisans with yarn to weave at home. With the exception of three large factories at Alost ^^^ spinning T . -,. ^ . ,-, 1J.1J3 •• 1 ^ concentrated producing Imen sewing thread, the nax spinning trade at Giient. has of late years been concentrated at Ghent, which city contains, among many others, two mills of great size working 51,000 and 44,000 spindles respectively, and each employing 2,000 operatives. In one of the smaller spinning mills, employing Fiax spinning about 300 hands and working 700 spindles, I observed '""i-^'^*^- that in the first process, i.e., the cutting and cleaning of the flax, none but boys were employed, who earned from 50 to 75 c. a-day. The men employed for dressing and classifying the flax earned up to 2*50 fr. per day. The rest of the work was done by women, who were paid up to 2 fr. per day. The hands worked for twelve hours daily, i.e., from Hours of labour. 42 BELGIUM. Ruysbroeck linen factory. Wages. Hours of labour. Expenses of the workmen. V to 12 A.M. and from 1 to 8 p.m. witliout interruption, tlie occupier hamng suppressed the usual periods of repose at 8 a.m. and 4 p.m. at the request of his workmeUj who prefeired leaving off work a little sooner. The wages in this mill are perhaps a little helow the average, as Only the coarser quahties of flax are employed. But 2 fr. per day are considered good wages for a woman in Ghent, and the Chamber of Commerce of Courtrai mentions, as a proof of the prosperity of trade in 1871, that weavers earned 2 fr. 50 c. per day. I have obtaiued the following information respecting the wages, hours of labour, and expenses of the hands in a large ILuen factory in Ruysbroeck, near Brussels^ employing about 800 operatives. Foremen receive 5 fr. and upwards per day. * Fr. c. 1st class hands receive per day .. 2 75 2nd „ .. 2 00 3rd .. I 25 Women, 1st class „ .. 2 00 2nd „ „ .. 1 75 3rd „ „ .. 1 00 During seven months of the year, working hours are from 6"30 a.m. to 5'30 p.m., broken by intervals of repose, viz., at 8 A.M., half-an-hour ; at noon, one hour ; and at 4 P.M., a quarter of an hour. During the five summer months, the hours are from 5*30 A.M. till 7 P.M., with the same wages and intervals of repose. Extra work is paid for at the rate of 25 c. per hour. Children under 12 years of age are not, as a rule, admitted. The rent of a small house of four or five rooms, with a little garden, cellar, and garret, is from 10 to 12 fr. per month. The principal articles of food are bread, potatoes,, bacon, coffee, chicory, and white cheese. Chicory and bread for breakfast, potatoes and vegetables cooked with bacon at noon, and vegetable soup with bread and white cheese for supper. Light beer and water are the chief beverages. By joining a family, it is possible for a single man ta be lodged and fed for 35 fr. per month. The operatives all wear blue blouses and trousers, the stuff for each costing 4 fr. Two suits a-year suffice^ BELGIUM. 43 Under these are worn one or two flannel shirts and drawers, according to the temperature. One pair of wooden shoes costs 65 c, and lasts about three months. One pair of leather boots for Sundays and fete days is supposed to last for a year. Fr. c. Cost of pro- Bread costs about . . 40 per hjlog. {2d. per lb.) visions. Potatoes ditto . . 9 00 per 100 kilog. (Is. per 24 lbs.) Meat ditto . . .. 2 00 per kilog. (lOd. 'per lb.) Bacoii ditto . . . 2 00 „ (lOrf. per lb.) American ditto . . 1 10 „ {5^d. per lb.) Coffee ditto . .. 1 00 per lb. (10c?. per lb.) Butter ditto. ..160 „ (1«. 4<^. per lb.) Coals ditto 1 fr. 60 c. to 2 50 per 100 lbs. (16c?. to 2s. Id. per 100 lbs.) Chicory, 3c?. per lb. ; Milk, l^d. per pint. N.B.— 1 lb. = i kilog. ; 1 pint = 1 litre. In this factory, the hands are contented and strikes are uiiknown, as the proprietor does much to improve their condition. In addition to a siaging club, a provi- sion store, and a primary school, the proprietor has esta- blished an asylum where the young children of women employed at the factory are taken care of during working hours. The above remarks also apply to the large neighbouring Loth. ■ woollen factory at Loth, conducted by an Englishman, with about 30 English foremen, designers, and dyers, earning from 12 to 35 fr. a-day, with a share in the profits. This factory is now working with 1,400 hands, but can employ upwards of 2,000. The following remarks apply to the busy manufac- turing towns of Alost, Ninove, Termonde, St. Nicolas, and Lokeren, lying together in East Elanders, the most densely populated portion of Belgium. The factories in these towns are not of great size. They manufacture goods of flax, cotton, wool, and mixed stuffs. The most important of these industries are the manufacture of blankets at Termonde, of sewing thread at Alost and Ninove, and the coloured cotton and wool mixed tissues of St. Nicolas. i^.lost contains four factories, ejnploying about 2,500 ^.°''' *°* hands, and Ninove nine, on a smaller scale, with 1,000 '°°^^" ' hands in all. These two towns contain nearly aU the factories in Belgium for the manufacture of cotton and linen sewing thread. There are likewise sewing thread factories in West Elanders, near Roulers, but they are 44 BELGIUM. Alost linen sewing thread. Ateliers d'ap- prentissage. Steam power looms. Sacks and sacking. not flourishing, owing, it is said, to tlie greater importa- tion of late of English, thread, whicli is hut lightly taxed in Belgium. The year 1871 was favourable to this manufacture at Alost. From the month of March the demand was well sustained, and the rise ia the price of flax foreshadowing a rise ia that of linen thread, increased the demand. This prosperity is, however, due to temporary causes, i-nd manufacturers complain much of the heavy duties which prevent their competing freely with neighbouring countries, as also of that on certain yams imported from England for manufacturing purposes. Here and in many parts of East and West Flanders a good deal of hand weaving is done at home, and some commiines have established industrial schools to en- courage the trade, such as those of Ypres, Passchendal, and Becelaire, the two former of which are doing well, but the latter is languishing, owing to the superior popu- larity of the trade of flax peeling. These private looms work principally for manufacturers, the quantity sold on the market being quite insignificant. The "ateliers d'apprentissage," or schools where weaving is taught, partly at the expense of the State and partly of the commune, were established by Government during a period of distress amongst operatives in the flax trade, and have been productive of good results. The pupils are admitted at the age of 12, and receive a practical professional education in diflforent branches of weaving. On leaving the school, if efiicient weavers, the pupils receive a certificate. There are between 70 and 80 of these industrial schools chiefly in West Flan- ders, all working for manufacturers, who provide the yarn. By means of these schools a constant supply of good weavers is assured to linen manufacturers. This trade has made great advances in the last two years, the Alost factory having increased the number of its looms from 60 to 100, during that period producing linen tissues of great width and all qualities. The great demand for these articles dmnng the late war induced a larger supply than could well be disposed of, but the steam factory at Alost is in a flourishing state, paying its hands 2 fr. per day. It may be noted that a daily increasing quantity of jute enters into the composition of these coarse fabrics. BEIiGITTM. 45 Alost possesses three factories of tHs article all in Damask Unen. good work, and a certain amount is also produced by private hands. Table cloths, napMns, and towels, grey and white, are the priacipal produce, for the latter of which, duriag the past year, the demand almost exceeded the power of supply. Damasked tissues for mattresses are ia little demand, being now for the most part replaced by striped ticking. Alost has two factories for the production of cotton Cotton sewing, and knitting thread, to one of which is attached ^p'™"'^- a spuming ttii'II as a feeder. These establishments produce considerable quantities, but almost entirely for home consumption. The price of yam, Nos. 24 to 30, averaged, during 1871, 5 fr. 24 c. per kilog. Some idea of the producing power of the trade of Production;6f Alost may be formed from the followitig return of weight of flaxen and cotton goods delivered at the railway station during 1871 : — Home. Export. Total. Yarns of all kinds and cords Tissues Tons. 330 601 Tons. 409 4 Tons. 739 605 It is probable that a larger amount was for exporta- tion passing through Antwerp or through other houses. In the four large sewing thread factories of Alost, the Wages and wages and hours of labour are the same. The largest one at Aiost'*''""'^ employs 1,000 men and boys, and 150 women. The men and boys are divided into five, and the women and girls into three classes. Men, 1st class, receive per day ^ „ 2nd „ „ 3rd „ „ 4th „ „ 5th „ Women, 1st class 2nd „ „ 3rd „ Children are employed from six and seven years of age and upwards. During the six summer months, work commences at 6 A.M. and fii^shes at 8 p.m., with an hour's repose at noon and a quarter of an hour at 8 a.m. and 4 p.m. CO Flaxen and hempen 807 966 1,496 115,336 141,808 269,60$ Tissues- Cotton 2,281 2,567 3,718 467,000 610,000 907,000 Woollen 5,196 6,116 6,525 433,000 426,000 644,000 Flaxen and hempen 1,661 1,244 1,991 Statement of the Commerce of Belgium with HoUand in. Wool, Elax, Hemp, Cotton, and their Yams and Tissues during 1868-70. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantities. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. Vegetable fibres Wool Yam, cotton and woollen Tissues, woollen Frs. 15,070 3,511 34 1,056 Frs. 23,724 2,037 20 1,137 Frs. 17,173 3,645 13 1,136 Kilog. 7,365,000 1,356,000 4,199 Kilog. 12,093,000 1,067,000 3,683 Kilog. 13,529.000 1,313,000 1,969 EXPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantities. - 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. Frs. Frs. Frs. Kilog. Kilog. Kilog. Vegetable fibres 446 984 1,332 325,604 680,958 700,628 Wool 110 193 100 38,000 48,000 33,000 Cotton 1,006 805 622 301,116 161,064 141,339 Woollei 351 189 323 30,699 34,863 43,965 Flax and hemp 3,888 7,443 6,091 556,000 1,333,000 906,000 E 2 62 BELGIUM. Statement of the Commerce of Belgium mth the Hanse Towns in Wool, Elax, Hemp, Cotton, and their Yarns and Tissues during 1868-70. IMPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantities. 1868. 1869. • 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. Wool ... .„ Yam, vooUen Frl. 69 61 Frs. 116 34 Fr.. 103 10 Kilog. 34,311,000 6,730 Kiloe. 61,0177000 4,312 Kilog. 49.241,000 1,348 EXPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantities. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. yam— Frs. Frs. Frs. Kilog. Kilog. . Kilog. Woolten 360 >*> 48,000 Flaxen and hempen 7 18. 10 1,049,000 2,592,000 1,575,000 Tissues — Cotton 865 830 544 173,034,000 166,501,000 107,731,000 Woollen 216 124 151 19,606,000 10,612,000 12,260,000 Hempen and flaxen 130 195 64 ... ... Statement of the Commerce of Belgium with Prance in Wool, Elax, Hemp, Cotton, and their Tarns and Tissues during 1868-70. IMPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs Quantities. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. Frs. Frs. Frs. . Kilog. KUog. Kilog. Vegetable fibres 18,780 16,409 15.501 10,461,000 9,989,000 13,231,000 Wool ... .- 10,500 12,808 24,398 5,250,000 6,741,000 11,618,000 yam- Cotton 368 497 804 40,588 67.906 125,832 Woollen 5,456 4,347 3,639 617,000 554,000 496,000 Flaxen and liempen 1,999- 3,920 3;327 283,000 705,000 661,000 Tissues- Cotton 2,891 2,847 2,064 249,913 266,961 210,659 Woollen 8,839 9,424 8,617 ... Fla.xen and hempen 290 401 429 ... EXPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantities. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. VegctaUc fibres Wool yam- Cotton Woollen Flaxen and liempen Tissues- Cotton Woollen —Flaxen and hempen Frs. 36,261 950 1,207 1,944 14,397 3,309 9,077 10,415 Frs. 21,898 1,347 975 2.962 7,351 3,419 10,733 11,485 Frs. 31,058 600 388 1,866 8,255 2,467 7,396 6,315 Kilog. 15,983,000 230,000 24,446 254.321 2,057,000 660,000 766,0C0 Kilog. 10,560,000 337.000 195,021 601,122 1,217,000 688,000 905,000 Kilog. 14,755,000 136,000 87,850 319,060 1,495,000 497,000 611,000 BELGIUM. 53 Statement of the Commerce of Belgium with the United States in. Wool, Max, Hemp, Cotton, and their Yarns and Tissues during 1868-70. IMPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantitica. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1869. 1870. Cotton Fre. 697 Frs. 227 Frs. 1,229 Kilo?. 248,866 Kilog. 78,332 Kilog. 512,227 EXPORTS. Value in 1,000 of Francs. Quantities. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1868. 1868. 1870. Yam, cotton Tlasnea— Cotton Woollen Flaxen and hempen Frs. ... 9 5 72 Frs. 20 33S 142 Frs. 17 256 503 KUog. 1,800 456 Kilo". 4,011 37,878 Kilog. 4,165 20,141 64 Denmark. Sir C. L. Wyke to Earl Granville. My Lordj Copenhagen, November 28, 1872. P I^WiTH reference to your Lordship's circiilar despatch of the 20th July last, I have the honour to inclose herewith a Report by Mr. Straohey on certain points connected with Victories for the spinniag and weaviag of textile fabrics in. Denmark. I have, &c. (Signed) CHARLES LENNOX WYKE. Inclosure. Memorandum hy Mr. Strachey. The production of textUe fabrics in Denmark is on too small a scale to have any importance or interest for other countries, and some of its branches are chiefly home manufactures. It appears, too, that Denmark was not named in the Manchester Memorial. Under these cir- cumstances an elaborate Report would be out of place, and accordingly the present statement is made as concise as possible. 1. Production. This occurs in cottons, cloths, and liaens. Of the progress of production nothing can be said, for there exist no data on which to found the necessary com- parisons. But the following figures, which, perhaps, are not altogether inexact, will give some approximate idea of the present state of the industries named. DENMAEK. 55 Estimated Value Goods. Quantities. in pounds sterling. Cottons— EUs. £ ^ Coloured . . 3,500,000 98,000 S Bleached and unbleached 7,000,000 89,000 Coloured and prepared 4,000,000 50,000 Linen and damask 1,000,000 42,000 Woollen, uncoloured . . 800,000 27,000 Cloth and buckskins . . 625,000 160,000 Half wool clothing stuffs 500,000 22,000 Knitted cotton — Dozens. Stockings. . 8,000 ) Jackets . . 4,000 V 12,000 Drawers . . 4,000 i Xnitted wool — Stockings. . 50,000 ) Jackets . . 10,000 V 55,000 Drawers . . 5,000 J Total .. 555,000 The niimlDer of weavers and helps may be set down at 11,500, of whom one-half may be employed in cotton factories (no cotton is spun in Denmark) ; but it should be borne in raind that nearly all the linen and knitted goods are domestic manufactures, and that the above total includes the hands employed in their preparation. The cloth factories of Denmark hardly employ more than from 250 to 300 hands in all. 2. Hours. Danish factory hands usually work eleven hours a-day. A few employers keep their machinery going by daylight only ; in such cases it is sometimes the practice to put the factory clock back, so that the operatives shall not come before they are wanted, of which alteration of time the workers have the benefit. 3. Wages. The Table below has been specially compiled from statements kindly furnished by Danish employers, and revised by a competent manufacturer to whom the Man- chester Memorial has been submitted. The figures given show that the average wages paid to workers in textiles range from 9s. to 13s. 6d. a- week, 56 DENMAKK. the extreme rates being 11. 2s. and. II. 5s., whicli, how- ever, can be seldom realized. Por information on the personal expenditure of Danish operatives, mode of life, &c., I beg to refer to my Working Class Report, presented to Parliament in 1870- In this connection I wiU mention here that I do not believe that an unmarried Danish operative can support life ia a suitable manner on less than from 12s. to 13s. a-week, the cost of clothes, &c., firing, and lights excluded, these articles being much dearer here than in England. Honrsof Power. Factories. Actual Work. Employment. Wages. Per day. Per dav. Cloti. Marks sk. s. d. i. d. Water and I. Brede (Sjalland) . 11 Spinners Weavers 6 to 7 = Z 3 to 2 75 Steam. 3 4 1 li 1 6 Sundry- • 24 3 Hi 1 1* Water. 3. VeUe (Jntland) ... 11 All hands Maximum earnings 4 8 1 8 in piece worlt ... G Per Week. 3 3 Per Week. Cotton. (Nearly ;ill piece work) R. dols. Steam. 1. Fredericia IH Sundry 3 to 4 6 9 to 9 (Jutlanil) Female weavers 4 6i 9 13 4 Wearers and foremen 10 13 G 33 3 Ditto. 2. Ditto 11 (AU piece work.) All liauds (only women employed). 3J fi 7 11 13 e Ko Steam, linen. (Nearly all piece work) Per dav. Per day. aUhaict 1. SjaUana 10 Bleaclieni and Marks". looms. weavers of coarse goods S to G 1 lOi 3 3 Fine weavers . 10 13 3 9 4 G (Signed) Copenhagen, November 26, 1872. G. STEACHEY. 57 Greece. Mr. Barrington to Earl Granville. My Lord, Athens, October 30, 1872. With reference to your Lordship's Circular of the 20th of July last, requiring information on certain points connected with factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics on the Continent, I beg to state that such establishments in Greece are confined to factories for spinning sUk and cotton. Attendance at the silk spinning mills is regulated by the duration of day-light, artificial light not being used, and the daily length of time diiring which the hands are nominally engaged amounts to eleren hours ia summer and nine in winter ; but from the former must be deducted half-an-hour for breakfast, one hour for dinner, and a quarter of an hour for a light meal later in the day ; whilst from the latter a quarter of an hour for breakfast and three-quarters of an hour for dinner must be struck off, thus reducing the actual hours of labour to nine and a quarter in summer and eight in winter. At the cotton mills the working hours average ten per day. Girls are largely employed at these factories, almost exclusively so at those for spinning siLk, where it is quite the exception to meet with married women even. The silk spinners begin to work at a very early age, and their earnings vary from 60 lepta to 1 dr. 20 lepta per day (or a little over 5d. to lOd.) ; the wages of the over- lookers are rather better, namely, from 1 dr. 70 lepta (Is. 2^d.) daily to 2 dr. 60 lepta (Is. 9d.), which appears to be the highest rate of wages attainable. At the cotton miUs the men earn 2 dr. (Is. 5d.) and the girls 1 dr. 40 lepta (Is.) a-day, but in the reeling- rooms the latter are only paid at the rate of 60 lepta (5|d.) daily. The highest wages are gained by the man who manages the bundling-press, and who receives 3 dr. (2s. l^d.) a-day. Silk culture in Greece at the present day is said to be in point of extent very much where it was at the outbreak 58 GREECE. of the "war of independence. The destruction of mnlherry trees which then took place caused it to fall very low, and the energetic efforts which were made to raise it subsequently by replanting mulberry trees and importing eggs of good quality, received a severe check from the disease which, in 1856, broke out among the silkworms in Greece. The diminution in production thus caused had a very discouraging effect, and though the conse- quences of the disease were in a measure counteracted by the use of Japanese eggs, the benefit is modified by the fEict that there is no direct importation of such eggs, those used being of inferior quality, merely produced by insects of Japan breed, but not hatched from eggs actually brought from that country. It is on this account that Japanese silkworms have been less successful in Greece than in the other southern countries of Europe. The latest Returns published only exhibit the state of Greek commerce up to the year 1868 ; a comparison of these with the statistics previously issued shows the following to be the amount of silk exported from Greece for the then past five years ; and this exportation may be taken as representing nearly the whole production, the quantity worked up by hand looms in this part of the country being insignificant. Approximate Value in sterling of Silk Exports for five years. Cocoons. Spun Silk. £ £ 1864 22,000 7,300 1865 24,000 6,100 1866 36,000 13,900 1867 51,000 13,500 1868 68,000 36,000 Of cotton, the present annual produce from ten factories, with a total of 11,600 spindles, is about 700,000 lbs. of twist. There are, however, three new factories in course of construction, which will turn alto- gether about 7,000 or 8,000 spindles, and the number of the latter is also being increased in the existing establish- ments. I have, &c. (Signed) WILLIAM A. C. BAREINGTON. 59 Grand Duchies of Hesse-Darmstadt and Baden. Mr. Baillie to Earl Granville. lilj Lord, Darmstadt, December 2, 1872. I HAVE the Itonour to forward herewith a letter from Mr. Oope transmitting answers to the questions con- tained in your lordship's Circular of the 20th July last, relative to the manufacture of textile fahrics. I have, &c. (Signed) EVAN P. M. BAILLIE. Inqlosure 1. Mr. Cope to Mr. Baillie. Sir, Darmstadt, November 30, 1872. I HAVE the honour, in ohedience to instructions contained in Earl Granville's Circular of July 20 last, to transmit herewith reports on the hours of lahour and rates of wages in the factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics in the Grand Duchy of Hesse and the Grand Duchy of Baden. I regret that with reference to the third question on which information is desired by the National Association of Eactory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland, viz., the progressive increase of production in the above- mentioned factories, I am unable to give authentic statistics ; I have, however, given what partial infor- mation I could from a Report of one of the Hessian Chambers of Commerce, and should further information on the subject be published in other statistical returns which are being got ready, I will not fail to report to you later on the same. I have, &c. (Signed) EDMUND W. COPE. 60 HESSE-DARMSTADT AND BADEN. Inclosure 2, Hours of labour. Hates of wages. Increase of production. Report by Mr. Cope respecting Textile Fabrics in the Grand Duchy of Hesse. The hoTirs of labour in the factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics in the Grand Duchy of Hesse, are usually from 6 a.m. to 6 or 7 p.m., including, however, three pauses, viz., for breakfast, dinner, and afternoon coffee. It appears that children from 7 to 14 years of age (" Schulpflichtige Mnder") are only employed in one factory engaged in the preparation of textile fabrics iu the Grand Duchy, and there they receive instruction, such as is given in the schools, in the factory and at the cost of the Company owning the same. When trade is brisk enough to demand night- work, the workmen are divided into night and day gangs, but children and the younger workmen are never put with the night-gang. The rates of wages vary according to whether the work is paid by the job or day, and accordiug to the situ- ation of the factory, viz., whether near a large town, where there is a great demand for labour, or in a part of the country where it is cheap ; but the average in factories for the preparation of textUe fabrics may be said to be per day for women 30 to 50 kr. (lOd. to Is. 5d. sterling) ; men, 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. (Is. 8d. to 2s.) : but wages in this branch of manufacture, as iudeed in all others, are rising very much. As regards the progressive inctease of production in factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics in the Grand Duchy of Hesse, I have no general official statistics from which to gather the information required ; but fEtUing such as regards the whole, I venture to give a few particulars as regards one locality which I obtain from the Report of the Chamber of Commerce of "Worms, 1869-71, wMch has just been published. I find that the woollen manufacture (" KunstwoUe Fabrikation"), which was obliged to be almost suspended on the declaration of war in 1870, took a fresh start on the conclaision of peace, and that much higher prices were obtained for the goods than before the war in 1870. During the war, goods of. this class were imported from England, where HESSE-DARMSTADT AND BADEN. 61 a feu in price had taken place in 1870; but in 1871 there was such a demand on the Worms factory, that not only were all goods ia hand disposed of, but the demand exceeded the supply. The foUowing were the average prices in 1870 and 1871 of the different chief kinds of goods manufactured, viz., per 50 kilog : — Goods. End of 1870. End of 1871. Mungo . . Shoddy. . Flannel . Alpaca . . Florins. 19 33 to 34 35 to 36 28 to 30 Florins. 24i 50 to 54 54 to 56 38 to 40 Kate of Exchange on England, about 11 fl. 48 kr. to II. The manufacture of woollen yarn (" Kammgam-fabri- kation ") at Worms did not succeed under the Company which had originally started it, in consequence of too large a portion of the capital having been sunk in the factory itself, which left too small a residue in hand to start with, and the factory was bought in the be- ginniag of 1870 by the Kammgarnspinnerei Company of Bietigheim (Wurtemberg) to be worked by them in addition to their factory in that town. The Worms factory had, when the . Company took it, over 10,600 spindles ; in the summer of 1871 they added 2,200 new self-acting spindles, and they are now setting up another lot of 2,000. They have in Bietigheim 17,000 spindles, and the Company turned out in 1871 900,000 lbs. weight of goods against 150,000 lbs. in 1860, and their sales in 1871 amounted to 2,500,000 fl. against 500,000 in 1860. This mantifactory did not suffer so much as others during the war, and continued their work as usual with the exception of the first few days after the declaration of war, when all business was for the moment thrown into disorder, all other things giving place to the move- ment of troops, &c." The price of wool having increased in London and also in Germany, the manufacturers, in consequence of the augmentation of the price of the raw material, increased their prices for goods till they stood 25 per cent, higher at the end of 1871 than at the beginning. 62 HESSE-DARMSTADT AND BADEN. I find in the Report of the Darmstadt Chamber of Commerce of 1869 that of the textile fabrics manu- feiotured in the district there reported on, nine-tenths are disposed of within the Zollverein, and one-tenth exported to foreign countries ; and from the report of the Offen- bach Chamber of Commerce, 1868-70, that in that district the production of textile febrics is on the increase. (Signed) EDMUND W. COPE. Darmstadt, November 30, 1872. Inclosure 3. Report by Mr. Cope respecting Textile Fabrics in the Grand Duchy of Baden. 1. Rates of Wages. Per Day. (A.) Job Work. Chadren 7 to 14 Years of Age. Men. Women. In &ctories working in — 1. Cotton .. 2. Wool (or half-wool) 3. Linen (flax) 4. Silk Kr. 21 16 Fl. kr. 1 4 59 1 11 1 2 Kr. 45 39 48 51 Average . . Or say in sterling about 19 6lrf. 1 3 Is. 9d. 46 Is. 3lrf. (1.) Summer Rates. Per Day. (B.) Day Work. Children 7 to 14 Years of Age. Men. Women. Factories working in — 1. Cotton .. 2. Wool (and half-wool) 3. Liuen 4. Silk Kr. - 22 21 19 19 Fl. kr. 58 55 55 1 3 Kr. 38 30 33 33 Average of Summer rates Or say in sterling about 21^ 59i Is. 8d. 36 Is. Od. HKSSE-DAEMSTADT AND BADEN. 68 (2.) WiNTEK RA.TES. • Per Day. (B.) Day Work. Children 7 to 14 Years of Age. Men. Women. Factories working in — 1. Cotton . . 2. Wool (and half-wool) 3. l-inen 4. Silk Kr. 22 21 19 19 Fl.kr. 57 55 53 1 3 Kr. 38 30 33 33 Average of Winter rates Or say in sterling about 2H 7id. 59 Is. 7|rf. 36 Is. Od. 2. HoTirs of Tia,boxtp per Day. Summer. Winter. Children. Adults. Children. Adults. Factories working in — 1. Cotton. 2. Wool.. 3. Linen . 4. Silk .. Hours. 7 6 Hours. 12^ 11* Hours. 7 n 6 5i Hours. 122 12^ 12 Hi Average of totirs of labour for children, seven hoiirs per day ; for adults, twelve hours per day. There are at present no statistics from which authen- tic and reliable information can be obtained as to the progressive increase of production in the above factories. (Signed) EDMUND W. COPE. Darmstadt, November 30, 1872. 64 Netherlands. Sir E. Harris to Earl Granville. My Lord, The Hague, December 13, 1872. With reference to your Lordship's despatch, of this series, marked Circular of the 20th of July last, I have the honour to inclose herewith a memorandum, drawn up by Mr, Walsham, upon the subject of the hours of labour, the rate of wages, and the progressive increase of production in Netherland factories for the spuming and weaving of textile fabrics. At a later period, when certain statistical information which the Netherlands Government have kindly under- taken to procure from the Provinces shall have been received, Mr. Walsham hopes to be able to draw up a more detailed Report on the particular points alluded to in the Memorial of the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland. He trusts, how- ever, that the present memorandum will be found to con- tain sufficient information for enabling the Association to form a tolerably accurate idea of the general working of factories in this country. I have, &c. (Signed) E. A. J, HARRIS. Inclosure. Memorandum by Mr. Walsham. Question of Labour and Wages. Laboxjr throughout the Netherlands is comparatively cheap, and wages, notwithstanding the rise which has taken place in. some of the large towns, are still consider- ably below those paid in England. This proportion holds good for all traders. As a general, indeed almost invariable, rule, the NETHERLANDS. 65 Dutcti as well as the foreign employers dispense with any but native labour, except in the case of skilled fore- men. In the first place, as stated above, it is much cheaper ; but the character of the native labourer very materially helps to bring about this state of things. He is provident, industrious, and of a naturally contented disposition ; and, though he may not unfrequently, espe- cially if he be a married man^ find it a somewhat diflBicuIt matter to make his earnings cover his necessary wants, he prefers using amicable and legitimate means for improving his condition to joining in strikes. The question of wages has been occupying public attention for some time past, and it is not improbable that before long the position of the working classes may be improved in this respect ; directly, through a general advance on the present rate ; indirectly, by the lowering of prices through the establishment of co-operative stores, and by the formation of industrial schools, where the workman may have the opportvmity of increasing his knowledge, and thereby the productiveness of his labour. There is a general opinion, not unfrequently shared by the workmen themselves, that the Dutch labourer is not equal in point of skill to the foreign workman — ^that he is slower at his work, and turns it out in a less finished state. Possibly there may be some grounds for this opinion as regards highly skilled and factory hands ; but with respect to the ordinary labourer, it is doubtful whether any very marked difference exists. "When the BiU for the abolition of differential duties was lately under discussion in the Chambers of the States-General, the opposition demanded their reten- tion, at all events for some years to come — urging on be- half of the native manufacturers that they still required protection for their products, inasmuch as they were as yet unable to compete with British manufacturers as regards cotton, coals, machinery, and workmen. The BiU, however, passed, and the new Tariff will come into operation on the 1st of January. 1874. The system of paying labour in the Netherlands is either by the week, or by the hour, or by the piece ; the two latter plans having become very general of late, especially that of paying by the hour, as it is found that ' [150] F 66 NETHERLANDS. men have an interest in working as long as their employers will permit. The engagements of labourers depend on the quan- tity of work in demand, and on their own ability and conduct. Although it is not the custom for an employer to discharge any of his hands imtil the end of the week, still he is at perfect liberty to do so ; and on their side the workmen may go elsewhere for employment at a moment's notice, without thereby forfeiting their claim to any wages that may at the time be due to them. There is no law for limiting the hours of labour, or for prohibiting children under a certain age from work- ing in factories. A Commission, howeyer, is now sitting for the purpose of investigating this latter question ; and as manufacturers are beginning to find that the employ- ment of very young children does not answer, fewer will now be found in factories. As a general rule, the hours of labour vary from ten to fifteen a day, including intervals for at least two meals, which are prc^aded by the workmen themselves ; but probably twelve hours may be reckoned as an average rate, taking one factory with another. In the district known as Twenthe, near Almelo, in Ovcryssel, the hands in the cotton mills work between seventy and seventy-five hours a week ; some of the mill- owners looking upon the former, and others on the latter, as the most productive rate of labour. A good deal of the weaving is performed by the men at their own houses. The manufacturer provides the material, but not the machinery, aiid purchases the textiles at so much the piece, or by the weight, the price having been determined beforehand. In this case the hours of labour depend upon the man himself. Except when there happens to be a press of business, he knows that he "will only receive a certain sum for a certain piece of work, whether it is turned out quickly or the reverse, and he therefore regulates his labour accordingly. In the mills within the above named district, which is one of the piacipal manufacturing centres, the follow- ing may be taken as the range of wages per week : — NETHERLANDS. 67 A spinner ham Female ditto . Cliild Weaver Female ditto . Child (1 florin = Is. 8d. Florins. 8 to 12 4 to 6 2 to 4 4 to 8 3 to 5 2 to 3 12 florins =11.) These figures represent in eacli instance the earnings of skilled labourers^that is to say, of workmen who are thoroughly up to their trade. In the case of very young children, or of children who are learning their work, the wages are often almost nominal, sometimes not exceeding 60 or 70 c. per week (a little more than Is.) The variation in the rate of wages is so great in different factories that it would be a diflQ.cult matter to strike a very exact average. At Deventer, for instance, which is not, however, strictly speaking, a manufacturing town, except for carpets, a wool-spinner gains for a day of ten hours 6 fl. 10 c, equal to 8s. 6d. The handwheel spinners will scarcely earn more than 2 fl. 40 c, or about 4s., for twelve hours' work ; while the carpet-maker will make 6 fl. 60 c, or lis. for a day of eleven hours. In the larger towns, and in districts where skilled labour is in demand, a good factory hand may be supposed to earn, on an average, from 12s. to 15s. a week, in other places from 8s. to 10s. In no factory, however, could the maximum wage exceed 20s. a week (12 fl.). Factory hands' are kindly treated by their employers, and although their wages are lower and their hours of labom- longer than in England, they wUl generally be found to be a more contented class than the workmen at home. Doubtless their claim to higher wages wiU shortly receive favourable consideration ; but, except in the case of children, it is unhkely that the Legislature will inter- fere in the matter of hours of labour. Increase of Production. With respect to the progressive increase of production in factories, it would be diflicult to give any positive statistical details. It may, however, be safely asserted F 2 68 NETKEBLAKD3. that there has been, of late years a great improvement in the manufacture of textiles, and that the number of factories is decidedly on the increase. The Tables annexed to this Memorandum will show the progress of the cotton and woollen trade of the Netherlands with Great Britain during a period of five years ended December 31, 1870. As the ofB.cial returns of one year are not completed and published till the end of the following year, it is not possible to furnish later statistics. The Netherlands Grovemment have kindly under- taken to procure from the different provinces full particulars respecting the working and productive powers of the various factories ; and, later on, there wiU, no doubt, be an opportunity of furnishing the National Association of Factory Occupiers with a more detailed report on the points referred to in their Memorial of the 11th of July last. In the meantime, it is hoped that the present Memo- randum will be found to contain sufficient information to prove that the rate of wages in Netherland factories is below what it is in England, that the hours of labour are not limited even in the case of children, that factory hands in the Netherlands work for longer periods, as a rule, than they do at home, and that the manufacture of textile fabrics is steadily improving and increasing, though, doubtless, the progress has not been so marked as in England. (Signed) JOHN WALSHAM. The Hague, December 11, 1872, VAiiTlE in Elorins of Yams imported into Holland from Great Britain during the Eive Tears ended 31st December, 1870. 1866 1867 1868 1869] 1870 Cotton. Fl. 18,816,287 18,566,820. 19,618,474 17,928,028 21,353,010 Woollen. Fl. 11,092,952 13,322,490 15,000,439 14,806,835 14,527,797 Hemp, flax and jute. Fl. 4,148,183 4,050,747 3,709,922 3,404,293 3,185,527 TotaL Fl. 34,057,422 35,940,057 38,328,835 36,139,156 39,066,334 (12 florins = U.) KETHBRI.ANSS. 69 Those yams were principally for use within the country. Baw Cotton imported into Holland from Great Britain during the Mve Years ended 31st Decemher, 1870. Eilog. Value. Fl. 1866 30,198,234 18,118,940 1867 28,585,001 17,151,001 1868 30,176,184 18,105,710 1869 28,556,951 17,134,171 1870 25,733,691 15,440,215 (12 florins = 1/.) Nearly the entire supply of raw cotton comes from Great Britain, which furnished ahout fourteen-seven- teenths of the total quantity imported during the fire years ended 1870. Value, pf Cotton and WooUen Goods imported from Great Britaia during the Pive Tears ended 31st Decemher, 1870. Cotton. Woollen. 1866 ■ 1867 1868 1869 1870 Fl. 15,062,272 12,010,891 10,608,302 9,820,637 10,269,110 Fl. 5,139,206 5,664,256 6,008,205 6,553,987 7,896,421 (12 florins = 1/.) Value of Cotton Manufactures exported from Holland to Great Britain during the Pive Years ended 31st Decemher, 1870. Fl. 1866 .. .. .. .. 6,122,044 1867 1868 1869 1870 . - .. 4,112,771 . . 5,117,596 . . 6,420,771 .. 10,088,916 (12 florins = U.) 70 Prussia. Lord Odo Russell to Earl Granville. My Lord, Berlin, December 7, 1872. ' I HAVE the honour to transmit herewith a report which has heen drawn up by Hr. Plunkett, in com- pliance with the instructions contained in your Lordship's circular despatch of the 20th of July on the hours of labour, rates of wages, and the progressive increase of production in factories for the spuming and weaving of textile fabrics in this country. I have, &c. (Signed) ODO E.USSELL. Inclosure. No general statistics exis Dr. Jacobi's report. Increase of wagesloeal. Report by Mr. Plunkett. THE subject of the hours of labour and rates of wages has occupied the minds of jnanufacturers and legislators in this country for years past. I regret nevertheles sto say that there is still no means of procuring the authentic and reliable information which Earl Granville, in his circular despatch of the 20th of July, desires Her Majesty's Embassy to furnish with regard to the hours of labour, rates of wages, and the progressive increase of production in factories for the spinning and weaving of textUe fabrics in Prussia. No statistical or other reports have yet been published later than that of Dr. Jacobi. This book, moreover, refers only to the factories in Lower Silesia, and the data given therein are no longer entirely applicable ; for the infor- mation on which it is founded was collected nearly six years ago, since which time wages have risen considerably in various parts of the country, and to a certain extent in all. The increase, however, is purely local,, and no general rules can be laid down even with regard to the PRUSSIA. 71 rise of wages in Silesia itself. In Mr. Petre's report on Mr. Petre's the condition of tlie industrial classes in Prussia, pp. 459, "^^"'^ ' 460, 463, 464, 465 to 469 of the Blue Book, will he found a translation of those parts of Mr. Jacohi's Avork which deal with the spianing and weaving trades, and it will therefore he unnecessary for me to repeat them again. I am informed Isoth hy Dr. Engel, the director of the Government statistical department, and by Herr Moser, the director s^tSto^y of the department for Industrial Affairs in the Ministry statistics. of Commerce, that the Government possess no trust- worthy data whatever respecting Avages and the hom's of labour in spinning or weaving factories. The intention which was alluded to by Mr. Petre as haA'ing been enter- tained by Dr. Engel of drawing up a statement of the rates of wages in Prussia, has hitherto only been partially realised. That eminent statistician, whose report, when- statistics eoi- «ver made, cannot fail to be of the greatest value, has not mining*and °' jet touched upon spinning or weaAdng, his inquiries iron trades. hitherto extending only, as far as I am aware, to the mining and iron trades. In order, however, to complv Avith Earl GranA'ille's Sources of ... -ri 1 ^ J T information mstruetions,.! have endeayouxed to procm-e some dis- herein given, jointed fragments of information, partly from the reports published this year by the Chambers of Commerce of Berlin, Breslau, Crefeld, Cologne, Gladbach, Barmen, and Elberfeld ; and partly from personal interviews with some of the chief mill OAvners from various parts of the kingdom who happen to have offices in this city. I must necessarUyrequest indulgence for the meagreness of the details which I have to offer, repeating in the words of Mr. Petre's report : " That there are great and jP^^^g^^^"/ often insurmountable difficulties even for the natiA'cs of obtain direct the country in obtaining direct information from mill ^formation. OAvners and dkectors of industrial establishments, as regards wages and hours of labour, and their general treatment of the workm.en employed by them. Any attempt, therefore, in that direction by a foreigner Avould be likely to fail, especially if belonging to a country which (like England) is considered a formidable rival on the field of industry." These words, or something like them, have been used to me over and over again in the course of my present researches ; and I, therefore, cannot A'cnture to hope that I shall be successful in giving the full information which 72 PRTTSSEl. N« general rak. Spinaing factories. Same rules to weaving factories. Iron works concentrated ill Berlin. Hours of l.nbour for adults. Workingliours for girls. Government stiperTOion, Her Majesty's Grovemment desire to obtain. I belieye, however, that, as far as it goes, it will be tolerably correct, but only on condition that it be understood that the data given are true with regard to the one special factory named, and are not considered applicable to the whole trade in general. I am assured by all those with whom I have spoken, whether Government authorities or factory owners, that it is impossible to ■ establish any universal rule. The Prussian factories are not generally concentrated in districts, one branch here, another there, and a third somewhere else, and so on ; but they are situated more or less equally over certain provinces, and no special branch is confined to one special district. In manv of the Prussian industrial centres all branches are equally represented. To take for an example factories for the spinning of worsted yams, the wages paid in a factory at Berlin are not the same as those paid in a Spinning Pactory for the same class of goods at Potsdam, Langensalza, Dusseldorf, Breslau, or at Erfurt ; nor are the social conditions of the work people in these different places the same. In most of these places which I have mentioned there is but one factory for the spinning of worsted yams, and the result appears to be that each factory owner makes with his people the conditions which suit him best, without any previous arrangement with his brother mill owners, whose business is carried on in a different part of the country and under different circumstances. What I have said about the spinning of worsted yams is equally applicable to most branches of the spinning and weaving trades. The manufacture which has hitherto localised itself the most is the trade in iron machinery which has its principal works concentrated in Berlin. Generally I am informed that there is a tendency to diminish the hours of labour to twelve, including two hours for rest, and to raise the rate of wages ; but this increase, which is considerable in the case of male factory hands, is smaU as regards the women, who nevertheless form the greater portion of the hands employed in the spinning and weaving factories in this country. Girls from 14 to 16 years of age can never be made to work more then ten hours a day. The police , come once a month, at least, to examine them and see that all the different provisions of the '■ gewerbe ordnimg" PRUSSIA. 73 (Industrial Code of 1869) are complied with. Girls under 12 cannot be admitted as factory hands, nor can any girl be employed in a factory until she has completed her schooltime and been confirmed. Certificates to this effect must be furnished to the employer before he can admit any applicant, and must always be attached to the passbook of each child, which passbook the police examine and sign at each monthly visit. In addition to these m.onthly visits, quarterly inspec'- tions of the factory children are also made by superior officers of police. There is as yet no official supervision No GoTcm- for women above sixteen years of age. They are left to ^b/fw*' make what bargains they choose with their employers, women, and practically work the same number of hours as the men. The Minister of Commerce, Industry, and Public Minmteriai Works, in a circular dated the 27th of April last, has "'""'"• called the attention of the local authorities to this question, suggesting whether it might not be necessary to adopt some measures similar to those which exist in England for controlling the amount of labour imposed on women in the factories of this country. Nothing, however, has as yet been done. It is impossible to say what the precise increase of increase of wages has been in each case, but an approximate idea **^*^ may perhaps be derived from the following abstracts made from the various reports issued by the local Chambers of Commerce. Eor instance, the report issued by the Chamber of BresUu report. Commerce of Breslau, while stating that the spinning and weaving trades had been generally prosperous in Silesia, but that the cotton trade had been somewhat less lively than in the previous year, says that wages had generally risen. Vague information of this kind is frequently fotmd in Vagueness of aU the reports through which I have searched. It would '"^°"=^''"'°- indeed be no exaggeration to say that at the end of every division of each of these reports the same words occur, " Wages are rising." It is but seldom, however, that any more precise particulars are given, and it is difficult to make any practical Use of such general statements so very loosely made. In some few cases these reports enter more into detail ; Messrs. Gms- the Breslau report, for instance, says that at the flax falToiy^ 74 PRUSSIA. Messrs. Gevers and Schmidt's factory. 'Silesian cloth trade. Cotton mills. Kepoits of Berlin, Cologne, Bar- men and Gladbach. ■Silk weavers. Elberfeld report. Crefeld report. Mode adopted at Crefeld for collecting statistics. spinning factory of Messrs. Gruschwitz and Sons at Neusalz, the hands work from twelve to thirteen hours a day, women receiving from 6 to 13^ groschens (V^d- to 16d.) per day, and the men receiving from 12 to 25 groschens (Is. Sd. to 2s. 6d.) per day. These employers provide lodgings which are let out at reduced rates to the persons employed in their factory. At Messrs. Gevers and Schmidt's carpet works in Schmiedeberg, which employ ,50 men and 265 women, the former received an increase of 2^ to 5 th. (8s. 6d. to 15s.) and the latter an increase of 1^ to 3^ th. (4Sf^ a value of about 100,000Z. of worsted, and about an equal Brothers, amount in its weaving mills. Eugene Armand and Sons, of Pusckina, near Moscow, ^^^ "^ own the largest worsted stuff manufactory in Russia, Prices at which in 1867 produced goods to a value of about above mm. 466,000/. There prices for thibets, kashmeres, reps, grosgrin, brillantine, poplins, crepes, and lustres, vary from lid. to 2s. 5d. per yard. Cheap printed shawls (imitating Turkish in size, shape, ^''^j^°f and pattern) are manufactured largely at Moscow at piudie^,&e. prices from 5s. 4icZ. to 1/. Plushes for furniture are sold at from 4s. 9d. to 5s. 3d. per yard. Progress has been made in the above branches of ^T^? o , worsted maiiu*» manufacture, but much remains to be learnt yet, especi- facture stm ally in cleanness of spinning and taste of design, before ^™k^^*^ the Russian can equal the western worsted stuffs. The soldiers' cloth and coarse cloth in Russia are Soldiers' cloth, generally good. The best are m.ade in the Moscow Government, in Simbirsk and at Dorpat. The prices for middling cloth vary from 5s. Sd. to Prices of o ^,j ^ 1 ° ■' middlingcloth 8s. Id. per yard. * The chief inferiority of the Russian to English, Belgian, or Erench cloths, consists especially in its rela- tively great weight. This and other faults, such as want of quickness in. following the taste and inventions of the day, are only natural to the industry of a compara- tively backward country ; but there is no reason to doubt that, with time, Russia wUl export to some amount the probaWel coarser kinds of cloth. The exports of Russian cloths to increase Ik Europe first began in 1861, with a value of less than R^°8ul°cioth, 2,000/. ; in five years afterwards the yearly value ^^p®"^*"^"! amounted to 110,000/. The export of Russian woollens '^^^ to Asia is comparatively considerable. Silk. Since the year 1710, when some Armenians, by order Silkworm of Peter the Great, first acclimatized them, silkworms ^ R^-al^ 1710. 104 RUSSIA. Tashkend and Caacasian silk the best. Silk production of the Caucasus. Menonites and German colonists large ^kworm breeders. SilkwonnB grown in various southern GoTeniments. have been reared in the south of Russia, and even as feir north as the latitude of Moscow. The more recently acquired provinces of Russia produce the best cocoons. The Tashkend and Turkestan silk, from its brilliancy and strength, is becoming daily more prized, and there is perhaps no country in the world better suited to silkworms than the Caucasus. Of the raw production of the Caucasus (from 1,000,000 lbs. to 1,260,000 lbs. avoirdupois per annum), formerly about two-thirds was sent abroad, chiefly to Italy and France : at present the largest part is worked up in the Russian dominions. On account of the careless manner ia which it was wound off and prepared, the Russian manufacturers used to employ the Caucasian sUk merely as weft; now, however, as more care is taken in the first process, it is useful for most purposes, and has, in consequence, also increased in price. The Menonites and German colonists in the south, principally ia the Ekaterinoslaw and Taurid Govern- ments, show much aptitude for the silkworm culture. In the year 1857, the sUk crop of the German colonists in the neighbourhood of Mariopol was worth on the spot about 20,000/. On the Molotchna the Menonites grow large quan- tities of mulberry trees. In thek gardens alone (not including the trees of the mulberry plantations) they possessed, in the year 1854, 23,800 stocks and 1,236,623 bushes of the mulberry plant. It is a general rule of the Menonite colonists that each should plant or own at least Ij acre of woodland, of which not less than one-half should be planted with mulberry trees. Thi;"-, were the example of the Menonites followed by the other iahabitants of the treeless steppes of the south, not only would Russia become the first of the silk-produciag countries, but its sUk industry, based on the native product, would ia all probability take dimensions which would materially affect the general silk market of the world. Besides the Menonite silkworm plantations, there are silkworms in the Governments of Kieff, Kharkow, Moscow, Warsaw, and, as before stated, in most of the southern Governments. A small quantity of silk has even been raised in Lithuania near Wilna, and with fair RUSSIA. 105 resiilt, for the white fruited mulherry tree appears capable of standing the cold of a pretty severe winter. The silkworm disease is absolutely unknown in silkworm Russia ; and this fact, tending to demonstrate the suita- ^l^y^ „, bility of the soil and climate to the insect, makes it the Russian more remarkable that the E-ussian Government, so ready p°-^=^'™^- to grant aid towards developing other branches of national cultm-e and iadustry, should have shown so Government little interest in the production of silk. The late Prince ^°^„^°^f to^° Woronzow was in this respect an exception. During siik productiou his long governorship of the Southern Provinces, he '" Russia, displayed great energy in the promotion of silkworm breedmg ; but his system was not entirely judicious, and the success which Ms activity and foresight deserved did not follow his efforts. That there is no culture in Russia which produces south Russia more brilliant results is shown by the example of the adapted for Menonites. These colonists frequently, with little silkworm. labour beyond that of their wives and children, have earned as much as 60Z. or even 80Z. per amium by sale of their cocoons. It is possible that these excellent husbandmen may Possibility of be shortly compelled by circumstances to emigrate ; an tecmSng a opportunity, therefore, offers to the Tartars and Russians g^^^t sjik of the south to take up the industry thus left to them. comitr™° Of the two races, the Tartar is at present the more laborious, the true Russian peasant being now in many respects ia the moral condition of his class in the west some centuries ago ; and to follow the lead of the Menonites with success, as both care and attention are requisite in silk growing, he must modify those careless habits which are the result of his long servitude. Such, however, is the imitative nature of the Russian, that a fair start being given, a great development of the silk production may at any moment take place, as the rapidity is often prodigious with which an industry spreads which has been taken up by natives (not by foreigners, of whom every Russian peasant is jealous and suspicious). Thus ia 1820, in a village of Riazan, a few families began to make fishing nets ; twenty years later, the whole district was devoted to the occupation, and it would have been easy to buy in it at any time 200,000 roubles' worth of such nets. Again, in a vUlage of Kaluga, an individual took to rearing canaries ; in a few 106 RUSSIA. Schools at Moscow and near Warsaw for teaching of silkworm cultivation, &c. Silk produc- tion of Russia. Silk spinning mills. Establishment of Alexief and Voroniue in the Caucasus. years 12,000 canaries were sold yearly from the district. Similar instances could be multiplied of the imitative qualities of this peasantry, more especially in occupations and industries which he can follow at home in his village. Though the Government has not shown much desire to encourage the silk production, private enterprise is not entirely wanting; an excellent school has been founded at Moscow by a Mr. Kripner, for the purpose of teaching the managemen t of the silkworm, the winding, &c., of the silk, the selection and preservation of the eggs, &c. A similar establishment exists in the Govern- ment of Poland. The total raw silk production of Russia (exclusive of Turkestan) has been roughly estimated at about 1,900,000 lbs. avoirdupois, of a value of about 600,000Z. According to the returns of 1870, there were 137 establishments for the first processes — four in Podolia, the remaining 133 in the Caucasus. The Government statistics fail in giving further details on this subject, as to the value of production, number of hands employed, &c.; and it is consequently impossible to learn the in- crease in the operations of the establishments solely devoted to silk spianing. That there has been some progress, however, may be inferred from the fact of a larger number of hands being employed ia those esta- blishments of which the operations are known, and the greater value of their produce. One of the chief establishments in the Caucasus is that of Alexief and Voronine, employing 886 hands, producing yearly a value of about 66,000Z. of spun sUk, According to Timirjasew, the sUk and silk-stuff manufactories of Russia in 1867 were 81 in number (hot including Poland or the Caucasus), and their produce in value about 568,000/. RUSSIA. 107 Silk MANUPACTORrES. Silk mills. Governments. No. of Mills. No. of Hands. Value of Production. Livonia Moscow Orel.. St. Petersburgli Poland Caucasus 1 72 i 7 35 6,135 3 425 £ 4,600 490,000 400 73,000 12,000 8,000 Total of Empire . . 81 6,598 588,000 Of ribbon manufactories, according to the same authority, there were only seven, produciag goods to the value of about 20,000Z. Again the information gained at the St. Petersburgb Exhibition proved that between 1867 and 1870 an enormous increase of production had taken place, or that the official statistics of 1867 underestimated the production. In 1870 there were not less then 10,000 hands employed in the silk manufactories, of which the produce was more than 1,060,000Z. in value. The above figures do not include Russian Turkestan, where, in addition to the native silk manufacturers, Russian merchants own mills at Khodschend and Tashkend. There appears to be the same waste of labour in the silk manufacture as in the other industries of Russia — the same room for econom.y in production. Improve- ment, however, has of late years taken place in this branch of industry, which a short while ago was notoriously in a very rude and backward state. The prices of raw silks vary considerably at Moscow. As to the manufactured goods : — Russian silk atlas is sold at 5.9. lOd. per yard. Half sUk atlas from 3s. 5d. to 4s. 6d. per yard. Satins from 10s. to I7s. per yard. It is in the fabrication of the cheaper and thinner sUks that the Moscow manufacturers excel. " Kanaus," an essen- tially Russian and Caucasian pure sUk manufacture, generally striped in pattern, is sold at from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 8d. — an excellent article for the price. Bibbon manu- jactnres. Production* in 1870 much- greater than that given above. The above figures do not ,' include Russian Turkestan, of the produc- tion of which no returns can be obtained. Backward '' state of this manufacture a short time ago. Prices of silk manufactures. 108 RUSSIA. Russian silk manufactures not sufficiently concentrated on particular branches. Imports of raw and manu- factured silk. Exports of raw silki Great variety of rates of wages in the same industry throughout Russia. Erroneous im- pression con- veyed by Table of Wages in Memorandum on Industrial Classes in Russia. Wages in Wladimir Government, Russian atlas is certainly inferior to foreign ; but on tlie whole, Russian sUks are stronger and better than the German and Austrian. Some indeed — notably the satins of Messrs. Ssolowjew of Bosorodsk, near Moscow, are very little inferior to those of Lyons. Gold brocades, and stuffs for church hangings, and priests' yestments are largely manufactured and at- a low price, viz., from 3s. M: to 10s. the yard. The Russians appear to commit an error in en- deavouring to imitate every foreign silk manufacture. If more attention was paid to particular branches, and there was less desire for variety, it is presumable that the progress would be more steady and soM. In 1870, Russia imported 714,597 lbs. avoirdupois of spun silk, and 297,216 lbs. of silk stuffs. Her export of raw sUk was about 144,000 lbs. The price of labour varies enormously in different parts of the Empire and according to circumstances ; and it would be extremely difficult, indeed alnaost impossible, to give a correct general average of the wages paid in each branch of the textile industries of Russia. Wages are highest in the St. Petersburgh district, lowest in the country districts of the centre. In and about St. Petersbiu'gh they have risen, on an average, about 15 per cent, within the last three years. I should correct here an erroneous impression which may have been formed by the Table of Wages of various classes of mill hands, given in the Memorandum on the Industrial Classes (January 12, 1870) which, by order of Sir Andrew Buchanan, I drew up from information furnished him by gentlemen engaged in manufacture. The rates of wages given in the Table in question do not apply to the city of Moscow, where the pay of labour was much higher than as stated, but to mills in country districts in the Government of Moscow. Prices of labour, as before stated, differ to a surprising extent in different districts. Thus a well-known cotton manufacturer in the Wladimir Government engages his hands during the summer months at about 16s. per month ; and in the six months when agricultm'al operations are more or less suspended, he pays them no more than 13s. M. per month. RUSSIA, 109 On the other hand the following Tables fairly repre- wages in st. sent the average rate of wages paid for labour in cotton Petersburgu 1 ^ . i" i^^ . ,. -n • ii Government. spinning and weaving and cauco printing mills m the St. Petersbnrgh district. In the spinning and weaving mills, in accordance with the prevailing customs, the hands are chiefly paid by the piece and monthly ; in the printing works the hands are paid monthly, but the piece work system does not apply. Average Earnings per Day of the various classes of Hands employed ia the Petroffski and Spasski Mills, Spinning and weaving mills. Engineer Department — Boiler men . . Engine men . . Gasworks men Oilers for shafting Smiths and mechanics Turners and mill joiners . Strikers ... Boys and youths Carding Department — Mixing room . . men and boys Blowing room, at machines . . men J, J. women „ lap ends men or youths „ odd works . , boys Card Room — Cards, " grinders " . . . . men " Strippers " EoUers "grinders" .. Brushes Coileis, feeds Cards, " cleavers " . . „ putting in pieces, scouring, &c. ,, oilers „ lap carriers „ strap piecers . . At Frames — Drawing frames . . , , women Siubbing, intermediate, (fee, frames women „ "creelers". . .. girls Derby Doublers — Women and youths . . Lap carriers. . At frames, bobbin carriers „ sweepers, &c. „ spare hands Mule Department — Spinners* . . Bobbin carriers, &c. . . youths youths men men women men women 2 2 2 1 8 d. H 3 H 1 8 1 5 1 7 1 4 1 1 6 1 2 1 8 1 2 1 10 1 4 1 5 10 5 8 1 7 10 * But they pay big piecers, youths, Is. 4d. ; little ditto. 110 RUSSIA. . s. d. Throstle Department^ Piecers . . women 1 5 5» • • • • girls 1 Doffers boys 8 Bobbin carriers as in Mule Department. Winding Room — At winding machines women 1 8 At doubling „ girls 1 1 At sorting bobbins 7 Warping Room — At warping machines . . women 2 2 „ „ yarn carriers 1 7 Sizing Room — At sizing machines . . men 4 1 At size boiler 1 8 Strap piecers • • » 2 1 Twisting-in Room — Twisting women and girls 1 Setting in reeds women 1 6 " . . " .. . girls 8 Repairing healds ■ • ») 1 1 Weaving Shed — At looms men and women 2 2 In Weaving OfiSce — " Cut "-lookers, &c. . . 2 8 Watchmen 1 7 Russian overlookers 4 „ writers • ■ . ■ 4 3 Calico printiDg Avi^EAGE MontHy Earnings of Hands at Schlusselburg Printing Calico Mill. Hours of Jabour, Schlussellinrg anil). £ s. d. In engraving shop Bleach house men 3 10 „ 1 10 7 Printing room ,,290 Colour shop Print finishing room Fancy dye house . . Finishing room „ 1 16 „ 1 14 3 „ 1 12 „ 1 13 5 Millwright's shop . . „ 3 11 6 Joiners . . „ 3 12 Boys and women are paid proportionately less. The average raonthly earnings — men, women, boys, and girls — in tMs last null are about 1/. 16s. 6d. The hours of labour are from 5-30 a.m. to 7 p.m. (except Saturdays, when the works close at 2 p.m.) ; the hands go home for breakfast from 8"30 to 9 a.m., and for dinner from 1 to 2 p.m. A room is provided on the works for meals. At the Spasski and Petroffeki nulls the hands work an RUSSIA. Ill hour longer, viz., from 5-30 A.M. to 8 p.m. ; on Saturdays Hours of the mills stop work at 5 p.m. Hot water for tea is pro- gjp^_ g,^ vided for the people for breakfast between 7 and 8 a.m., mm. and agaia between 4 and 5. The mills stop work from 12 to 1, when the hands either go home or have their dinners brought to them at the malls. Besides Sundays there are about twenty-four holy HoUdays, days in the year when no work is allowed. Some are Saints' days, others State hoMdays. In some localities one day is made a holiday ; in another a different holy day may be observed; but, on the whole, it may be stated that, for the purposes of industry, there are some- what less than 290 workiug days in the year. In the central Governments many cotton mills work j^ central night and day ; in this case the hours of labour are ^°;^™^f' ^' naturally shorter than those given above, the hands night and day. leMeving each other every twelve hours. There is, perhaps, no country where the hours of Length of labour in every branch of industry are so long as in hows of labour Hussia ; thirteen hours per day being the general average, '° ^^^' children generally working the same time as men. As before stated, there is great waste of labour in all -^^^^te of the Hussian iadustries. The first and priucipal cause of labour, this is the want of proper mechanical appliances ; but even in miUs where the best and newest machinery is used, it is found necessary to have a larger number of hands than is actually required, and this on account of the irregularity of attendance of the hands. Indeed, it has been found necessary ia some cases to limit the gains of the piece workers. Eor iastance, ia England a spinner at the mules, with his helps, will attend to about 2,000 spindles ; in Russia he is never given more than 1,000 spindles — generally 500. Again, iu the weaving miUs a Russian rarely has the care of more than two looms, whilst in England a weaver will frequently look after six : had the Russian six looms under his care, he would earn about 6s. or 7s. a-day (he can weave a piece for which he receives a little more than Is., at each loom daily). These large earnings would fljid their way to the " vodki " (brandy) shop, and irregularity of attendance would be the result. Again, hands are apt giving a short notice (generally a fortnight) to throw up their work and return to their village or begin some fresh trade ; it is therefore essential 112 RUSSIA. to have a large staff of supernumeraries wlio have learnt their work, so as to be ready to supply the vacant places. To entrust important branches of the work to new and unskilled hands would delay or injure it. Strikes.^ strikes are by no means unusual in Russia, but there is no general organization of the labouring classes ; no trades imions, unless under that term can be included the labour clubs or associations for mutual benefit, called " artels," which are rarely composed of more than 30 or 40, and generally of 10 or 20 members. These artels, as a rule, do not interfere much with the prices of labour. Thus, strikes when they occur are generally partial. SeR^^as ^^^ Russians, being quick to learn and naturally factory hands, fiuc-fingered, show Considerable aptitude for factory labour, and they are especially good mechanics ; indeed, in this latter particular they are scarcely surpassed : but they have little pride ia their work and are careless, which latter fault often causes great losses in the mills. Foreign fore- English, German, or other foreign foremen are gene- Snpioyed[ bfft rally employed ; in the larger mills the former earn from not invariably. 300Z. to 450Z. per annum, with lodging, fuel &c. ; but this is often not the case : thus one of the largest mills in the St. Petersburgh Government — the Golenischtcheff Cotton Mill — employs exclusively E-ussians. In conclusion, it may be stated, that in. general the textile industries in Russia have of late years made con- siderable advance. The condition of the linen industry is especially healthy ; but more care in the preparation of the raw material, and better machinery in the manufacture, are stiU urgently required, the latter want being felt in all the Russian textile industries. The cotton industry is at present suffering from over production, and there have of late occurred many failures in this trade. The woollen production is steadily progressing, but reqtures more capital, larger mills, and a generally superior system of manufacture. The silk manufacture, which ought to be entirely fed with home-grown silk, is as a matter of fact stiU. de- pendent on foreign supply. The supply of the Caucasian silk is especially not progressing satisfactorily; but experience has proved that districts held by military force alone, and inhabited by an unreconciled population. RUSSIA. 113 are rarely productive to their conquerors, and time alone will convert the Caucasus and Turkestan into truly valuable feeders of the Russian industries. In short, it may be said that the large expansion of the Russian sUk manufacture is dependent entirely upon the development of the silkworm cultivation within the Empire. As a market for foreign textile fabrics, Russia will probably, and for a long period, continue to be a con- sumer of the finer descriptions of manufactures from abroad ; but it is scarcely likely, unless an entire change of the Tariff system should take place, that the lowest priced classes of foreign textUe goods will ever, to any large extent, be imported to this country. Foreign capital, which has of late been so largely directed to the Russian railways, and is now turning to the mining and metal industries, will no doubt find further profitable openings in the textUe industries of this vast country. As regards the labouring classes, though it cannot be expected that the careless, thriftless habits derived fi-om long slavery should have yet been sensibly modified by the emancipation, there is an unmistakable desire among the youth of the lower classes for instruction and knowledge ; and this fact alone, coupled with theu' natural quickness, would seem to promise a more rapid elevation of their mental and even moral tone than has generally been anticipated by the foreign observer. St. Petersburgh, January 2, 1873. [160] lU Saxe Coburg Gotha. Mr. Barnard to Earl Granvilk. Mousselinesnd Cassiniere. Bed linen. Woollen plush. Carded yam. Hours of work Sate of wages. My Lord, Coburg, November 6, 1872. In answer to your LordsMp's Circular despatch of July 20, I have the honour to transmit all the informa- tion which I have been able to collect from statistical returns and other sources, relative to the spirmiug and weaving of textile fabrics iu the Duchies of Saxe Coburg Gotha. I much regret that I have so, little to communicate. In the Duchy of Saxe Coburg there is but one "fabriK," where, with thirty looms, 30,000 lbs. of worsted yam are used yearly for weayiag between 300 to 400 pieces of mousseline and cassimere. Three establishments with 400 hand looms, for weaving bed liuen, which require 100,000 lbs. of cotton and linen thread yearly. One establishment with fifty hand looms, for weaving woollen, plush, which require 100,000 lbs. yearly of English weffcyam. Two establishments, where woollen thread is spun, with 800 spindles, which produce 1,000 cwt. of carded yarn. It is necessary to remark that the greater part of the above spinning and weaving is done by people who have looms (either belonging to them or provided for them) in their dwellings and work for tradespeople who supply the necessary articles. The hours of work in Coburg are from 6 a.m. to 6 P.M. in summer, and from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. in winter. Ha]f-an-hour is allowed for breakfast, one hour for dinner^ and half-an-hour in the afternoon for refresh- ment^ The hours of work are therefore only ten. As regards pay, a man tiU now received 1*. 6d. to 2s. daily, a woman Is. to Is, 2d., a child (above fourteen years) 8d. to lOd. SAXE COBURG GOTHA. 115 At present the rate of pay has risen to between 20 and 30 per cent. In the Duchy of Saxe Gotha, the trades in question, Cardin? and which some years ago were considerable have gradually *p"™™s '*°'''' decreased, so that at present there is but one small establishment for wool carding and spinning, with eleven looms and 4,600 spindles, for which 100,000 lbs. of wool are required yearly. The pay for a man is from 14s. to 15s. weekly, for a Wages weeUy. woman 4s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. ; children under 14 years of age are not employed. The hours of work are twelve including two hours Hours of wort. interval. I have, &c. (Signed) CHARLES T. BARNARD. 116 Sweden. Mr. Erskine to Earl Granville. My Lord, Stockholm, December 6, 1872. Obediently to tlie instructions contained in your Lordship's despatch, of the 20th of July last, I have the honour to transmit herewith a Report on the spinning and weaving factories iu Sweden which has been drawn up by Mr. Gosling. I have, &c. (Signed) E. M. ERSKINE. Inclosure. Report by Mr. Gosling. 1. Hours of Labour. There is no restriction as to the hours of labour in Swedish factories affecting . adults of either sex, but a Royal Statute dated the 18th of June, 1864, prescribes that children who have not completed their twelfth year may not be employed ia factories, nor can workmen under eighteen years of age be employed for night work (9 o'clock P.M. to 5 o'clock a.m.) During the current year the hours of labour have been generally reduced, sixty-five hours may be taken to represent the present fixed amount of weekly labour in Swedish factories. 2. Rate of Wages. It is difB.cult to furnish the approximate rate of wages paid to factory hands in Sweden ; it depends mainly on the locality. The further north, the higher the wages. In the province of Norrland, for example, during the past summer, wages reached the comparatively high SWEDEN. 117 figure of 3 rix-dol. (about 3s. 5d.) a-day, whereas in. the southern districts they have varied from 75 ore (about lOd.) to 1 ris-dol. 75 ore (about Is. U^d.) It not unfrequently happens that factory hands are paid by the piece, whilst in the north of Sweden they often receive their wages partially in kind. Prom what I have been able to gather, I should say that 2 rix-dol. (about 2*. 3d.) is the maximum and 75 ore (about lOd.) the minimum price for daily labour in Swedish factories. 3. Progressive Increase of Production in Factories for the Spinning and Weaving of Textile Fabrics in Sweden. According to the oflB.cial returns published by the College of Commerce, it would appear that the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics in Sweden is largely in- creasing. Thus, the cotton yam spun during the period 184<5-4i9, amounted only to 4,031,155 lbs., whilst during the five years 1865-69, it amounted to 8,831,550 lbs., an increase at the rate of 119 per cent. ; the value of the yarn being 3,111,523 rix-dol. (about 172,860^.) against 11,559,226 rix-dol. (about 641,957/.), or an increase of 271 per cent. Cotton weaving shows even a greater result. The manufacture amounted during the period 1845-49 to 3,521,701 feet and 62,164 pieces, together valued at 636,480 rix-dol. (about 35,360Z.), and during 1865-69 to 32,959,180 feet and 7,589 pieces, showing an increase of 837 per cent, in the amoimt of fresh woven, and 693 per cent, in their value. The apparent great falling off in the number of pieces is not due to any real diminution in their manufacture, but to the circumstance that, in furnishing returns, the factories in most cases give their whole produce in feet, 120 of which go to the piece. As it may possibly be of interest, I will enumerate some of the principal Swedish factories, showing their annual production. In the year 1870 there were eighteen cotton- weaving factories, employing 1,576 hands, and twenty cotton- spinning factories, employing 3,282 hands. Rosenlund's and Gammelstaden's spinning factories at Gothenburg. The former works 21,400, and the latter 6,400 spin(fies, employing 530 hands. 118 Sweden. In 1871, 111,468 bimdles of yam, No. 2 to No. 4, were spun, of wMcli 29,099 were bleached, and 18,141 dyed ; it manufactured also 48,966 pieces of unbleaeliedj Meaclied, and dyed fabrics, together 5,697,864 feet, of which 1,157 pieces, or 141,181 feet was sail cloth. The whole produce for 1871 amounted to 1,849,914 rix-dol. (about 102,772Z.) Stromsbro spinning and weaving factory at Gefle. This establishment works 14,753 spiadles and 152 looms, employing 356 hands. The annual produce is about 1,000,000 lbs. of cotton, 4,200,000 feet of cotton cloth, and 15,000 lbs. of wadding. Alingsas cotton- weaving factory. This establishment works 264 looms (steam power) and employs 200 hands, chiefly women. In 1871, 8,466,105 feet of various fabrics were manu- factured, valued at 937,755 rix-dol. (about 52,097^.) Halmen's factories at Norrkoping. These factories work 10,000 spindles and 150 looms (water power). The spinneries produce annually about 1,200,000 lbs. of cotton yam. No. 2 to No. 4, The woven fabrics amount to 30,000 pieces of calico of various viddths. The estimated value of the produce in 1871 was 2,000,000 rix-dol. (about 111,100Z.) lonsered's factory, near Gothenburg (flax and hemp spinneries. There is also a weaving house for sail cloth, tent cloth, sack cloth, and linen fabrics. It works 10,000 spindles and 100 power looms, and employs 600 hands. In 1871, upwards of 2,000,000 feet of sail cloth, various woven fabrics, and about 55,000 bimdles of cotton yarn were manufactured, valued at 1,100,000 rix-dol. (about 61,000?.) Kampenhofs (Company Limited) cotton spinning and weaving factories at TJddevalla. This establishment works 10,800 spindles and 75 looms (steam power), and employs 230 hands. In 1870, 796,428 lbs. of cotton yam were spun, and 1,716,626 feet of various cotton fabrics were manufac- tured, valued at 1,099,801 rix-dol. (about 61,O00Z.) The proprietors of this factory had prizes awarded to them at the Exhibitions of London, 1862, Paris, 1867, and Copen- hagen, 1872. Rosendahl's and MariedahVs spinning and weaving SWEDEN. 119 factories at Grottenburg. The former works 7,000 spindles and 40 looms (steam and water power), tlie latter works 2,500 spindles (steam power). The produce of the two establishments amounted in 1871 to 630,136 lbs. of cotton yam, and 889,424 feet of woven fabrics, valued at 683,633 rix-dol. (about 37,974?.) Norrkoping's cotton weaving Company (Limited). This factory works 527 power looms, driven by nine steam-engiaes of together 76 horse-power. It ranks among the largest in Sweden, and the proprietors have had prizes awarded to them at the Exhibitions of Paris, Malmo, Stockholm, and Copenhagen. The manufacture consists chiefly of various kinds of bleached, unbleached, and dyed cotton stuffs, such as moleskin, shirting calico, dimity, piqu6, satia cloth, twills, nankeen, &c. In 1871, about 12,500,000 feet were manufactured, valued at 1,500,000 rix-dol. (about 82,333?.) ; 325 hands are employed. Rydahl's cotton spinning factory at Boras. This establishment works between 16,000 and 17,000 spiadles, moved by water power, and employs about 500 hands. About 1,000,000 lbs. of yam are spun annually, No. 22 to No. 23, the estimated value of which is 1,000,000 rix-dol. (about 55,000Z.) The factories to which I have alluded are very care- fully managed, and great attention has been given to their economical arrangements. School-houses and sick wards generally form part of the establishment. (Signed) AUDLET GOSLING. Stockholm, December 6, 1S72. 120 Switzerland. Mr. Bonar to Earl Granville. My Lord, Berne, January 28, 1873. I HAVE tlie honour to transmit to your Lordship herewith a collection of most elaborate and interesting Tables, together with the Report which Mr. Gould, with infinite assiduity and ability, has drawn up in accordance with the instructions contained in your Lordship's despatch of the 20th of July last, on the textile fabrics of Switzerland. I haye, &c. (Signed) A. G. G. BONAR. Liclosure. Report by Mr. Gould. Preliminary SWITZERLAND, in Spite of her rcmotc inland position! Remarks. ^j^g Conformation of her soil which presents great ob- stacles to internal communication, her want of capital as of most of the first elements of commercial pros- perity, has, after a long and severe struggle, become entitled to rank as an important manufacturing State. Her textUe fabrics, for instance, penetrate to the most distant quarters of the globe, where they now find as ready a sale as others longer and better known. Her silk manufacturers l boldly assert that, especially as regards cheap silks and'sUk ribbons, they are able at last not only to undersell on the Continent the British producer of similar articles, but even to compete with him in the home markets of Gyeat Britain, In the SWITZERLAND. 121 production of all goods, embroidered whether by machine or by hand, she has completely distanced her Scotch and Saxon competitors, and now has a virtual monopoly of this important branch of industry. A mere glance at the very able and elaborate Report ctreat increjwa of the late Sir John Bowring on the commerce and fet^rl^gf **"*"' manufactures of the Swiss Cantons in 1833 proves most conclusively that the progress achieved by Switzerland within the last forty years in developing her industrial resources can compare favourably with that of most other ' countries. In 1869 it attracted in a marked manner the attention of the Prench Parliamentary Com- mission of Inquiry into the condition of Erench Industry. The Erench manufacturers who were called up before it attempted to prove that, iu consequence of the advantages derived by the Swiss from low wages and an almost unlimited command of hydraulic power, they were no longer in a position to cope with them on equal terms. These assertions, though m a great measure founded on fact, lost much of their weight from the vague and exaggerated form in which they were put forward. They were therefore easUy refuted by M. Freer-Herzog, who ably represented the Swiss manufactm^ers on this occasion. Although the rapid increase in the production of Difficulty .f' Swiss textile fabrics is a weU-established fact, the task thrratentlf^ of determ in ing the precise extent of that increase, that increase, whether as regards their nature or value, and of ascer- taining the causes which have most contributed to bring about this result, is one of unusual difficulty. In the first place, the Swiss Custom-house Returns contained up to 1870 .no indication as to the quality, value, or destination of the exports, on which a uniform duty is levied of only 10 c. (about Id.) per quintal of 100 Swiss pounds, or 50 Mlog. Since 1870 the Retiums give the name of the frontier State, into which the exports have passed ; but as a very considerable portion of them are merely sent in transit, the value of this additional information is more apparent than real. Secondly, thefe are few or no reliable statistics of recent date respecting the industrial condition of the country in general. They are, however, now being compiled for use at the approaching Vienna Exhibition. Thirdly, 122 SWITZERLAND. the Swiss manufacturers, with some rare exceptions, are strongly opposed to imparting any information directly or indirectly affecting them, even when called upon to do so by the Federal Government. They are actuated in this course by long-standing prejudice, as well as by other plausible motives. They aver that they partly owe their present prosperity to the discovery of new channels of trade, which from their very insignificance have been neglected by their more powerful competitors, to the close adaptation of their manufacture?, to the wants and tastes of their customers ; and, finally, to the continual production of new patterns and designs. To these reasons, or pretexts for secrecy, must be added the objection they entertain to disclose the extent and nattire of their transactions, on account not only of the income-tax levied in many of the Swiss cantons, but also of their workmen, amongst whom prosperity is, as usual, beginning to sow the seeds of discontent. Imports of raw ijj^e imports of raw textile material of all kinds. Table No. 1). including yams, have, according to the Swiss OflB.cial Returns, risen from 47,119,675 lbs. in the year 1860, to 77,541,359 lbs. in 1871, being an increase of 64f per cent, in those twelve years. The E-etums for 1872 wiU, probably, show an unprecedented increase, as the Customs are reported to have yielded nearly 20 per cent, more than in 1871. Net amomitof Deducting from the above-mentioned imports the raw mSeriai (see textile material and yarns exported, there remained for Table No. 6). consumption in the manufactories, and for conversion into tissues, 40,082,788 lbs. in 1860, against 62,736,301 lbs. in 1871 ; the difference in favour of the latter year amount- ing to over 31^ per cent. This calculation is, however, very far from showing the foil extent of the rapid growth of Swiss manufactures, since the yams exported by Switzerland greatly exceed in quantity the imports of the same article. Besides, it makes no allowance what- ever for the probable increase in the home-production of flax and wool, of which, unfortunately, there are no means of judging. Exports of rjijjg cxports of yams and textile fabrics have risen &f£«T"we feom 25,203,173 lbs. in 1860, to 48,500,775 lbs. in. 1871. ^°-'''i- It win thus be seen that, whilst the imports of raw material, &c., show during the above period an improve- SWITZERLAND. 123 ment of only 64f per cent., the exports of textile fabrics, &c., increased 92 1-; a difference of no less than nearly 28 per cent, in favour of the latter. The rise in the value of the above exjports, from Value of the 12,485,027Z. in 1860, to 26,464,886?. in 1871, is stiU more Table No'^s). remarkable, and amounts to 112| per cent. In all pro- bability these figures are far from representing, the real extent of the improvement which has taken place in this respect. The valuations, on which they are based, date from 1865, and are evidently much below those adopted elsewhere. Nevertheless, as the same scale has been appHed throughout the whole period, they naay be relied upon for the purpose of forming a rough estimate of the value of the exports, in spite of the unavoidable con- fusion arising from the frequent changes in the Tariff, and the want of a proper classification of the different kinds of goods. With the object of supplying as far as possible the ^"°™i^^' omissions in the Swiss Custom-house Eetums, and of vafue of^ ascertaining the amount and approximate value of the ^*P^f^*°^'' exports of yarns and textile fabrics to the foiu- neigh- neighbouring ] bouring States, all the available information on the =o""trieB. gj subject has been collected in a series of nine Tables, appended to the present Report. The first (No. 9) has ^^^J^^^^ra been compiled from the Swiss Ofllcial Returns for 1870 to°No. 17 and 1871, which are drawn up differently from those of meiusiTe. > a previous date. It wiU be borne in mind that during the greater portion of these two years the invasion of France naturally affected the export trade of Switzer- land, and diverted it in a great measure to Germany. Then again, although Austria is known to import a very considerable amount of Swiss textile fabrics and especially yarns, her direct trade would appear insig- nificant according to these Returns. This is easily accounted for by the fact that most of the goods destined for Austria pass through the German territory, owing to the facilities afforded by dfrect railway com- munication. The only information obtained with regard to French Exports to imports of Swiss textile manufactures is unfortunately ^^°<=^- very meagre. This is much to be regretted, for not only is mere a large trade between the two countries, but a great part erf the Swiss ejsportations to the Levant and 124 SWITZBRLAlrt). the far East are sent for shipment to Marseilles. Still, on referring to the Table (No. 10), it will be found that the figures, which do not include goods in transit, prove that in the course of the ten years from 1860 to 1869 the estimated real value of the Trench imports from Switzerland had risen 1,400 per cent., or from 64,000Z. to 960,000Z. This extraordinary increase is attributed to the effects of the Fr^-nco-Swiss Commercial Treaty, which has enormously developed the trade between the two countries. Exports to The Returns of the German Customs Union (ZoU- Tabk^osTi verciu) do not indicate the value of 'the imports. This and 12). omission has, therefore, been made good by employing the scale of valuations furnished, as previously stated, by the Swiss Statistical Department. Moreover the changes in the German Tariff have been of such a nature that it has been found necessary to draw up two separate Tables, the first (No. 11) containing the Returns from 1861 to 1865, and the second (No. 12) those from 1866 to 1871. In the first period of five years the imports from Switzerland decreased as much as 4iS^ per cent, in amount and 49 per cent, in value. In the second period of six years there is on the contrary an increase of 683- per cent, in the amount, and of 294 per cent, in the value. Comparing the imports in 1861 with those of 1871 the increase is 72| in amount and 194^ in value. Switzerland supplies the manufactories of Alsace with a very large quantity of yarns and cloths in an un- finished state, especially since the conclusion of peace between Erance and Germany. It is exceedingly pro- bable that they have not been included in the Returns of the German Custom-houses for 1870 and 1871. This would in a great measure account for the apparent discrepancies between the Swiss and German Returns. Besides in the latter, a certain amoimt of the goods imported are returned under each heading withoirt any of the usual particulars being given, fter'free" According to the Italian Custom-house Returns, the Tables ' imports from Switzerland fell off during the twelve years f&,\eh^k ^^°^ ^^^^ *° ^^"^^^ ^^^ P^^ ^®^*- ^^ amount and 54^ in 17). ' value. A considerable portion of the exports from Ger- many to Italy formerly found their way through Swit- SWITZERLAND. 125 zerland. This circumstance may in some measure, though not entirely, account for the gradual decrease which has taken place. The Austrian Returns do not contain any particulars ^"^^" which would throw additional light on the commer- fumishno cial relations hetween the two countries, and have, ^tradlT^th therefore, heen left unnoticed. Switzerland. Through the extreme kindness of the United States' Direct exports Minister at Berne, copies of the official commercial states. "* Records of the American Consulates at Bale and Zurich have heen ohtained. Prom these it would seem that the declared value of the direct exports of textile fabrics to the United States has, in spite of the temporary check caused by the changes in the American Tariff, risen during the last ! eleven years (1862 to 1872 inclusive) from 508,726Z. to 2,168,718Z. ; in other words, over 324i per cent. Having reviewed all the information which it has been possible to collect with respect to the exports gene- rally, it may now be as well to point out in a few words the relative importance of each class of exports. SUk Bxporteof holds the fibrst place, owing as much to the great value as ^'"'"'s^""*'- to the enormously increased exportation of the manufac- tures of this staple. The exports rose from 3,612,387 lbs. in 1860 to 8,953,812 lbs. in 1871, or 147| per cent., whilst the estimated value increased from 8,870, 74i8Z. to 20,663,966/., or 132f per cent, in the same period. The exiports apparently exceed the imports, because in the Returns the gross weight of the former and only the net weight of the latter are given. If silk ribbons and silk and haK-silk stuffs are taken separately, the increase amounts to 90f per cent., from 3,171,149 lbs. in 1860 to 6,041,165 lbs. in 1871. Judging from the Returns for 1870 and 1871, silk ribbons figure for ne^,rly two-thirds of the above amounts. In the Swiss Report on the Paris Exhibition of 1867, sukyams. it is stated that the value of the annual production of floss silk yarns ("fiMs de boeurre de sole") varied from 400,000/. to 600,000/. These were chiefly exported to the north of Prance, Saxony, Berlin, and the Lower Rhine. The greater part of the sewing sflk spun in Switzer- sewing siik. land is exported to Prance and Belgium, not above 10 per cent, of the whole amount found its way to countries beyond the sea. 126 SWITZEELAND, Silk ribbons. The average annual value of tlie ribboii manufac- tories is estimated in this Report at 1,600,000Z. The United States and England are the priacipal markets for this aj-ticle. Silk and Ta^. In ordinary years it was calculated that the canton snjfstuffB. q£ Zurich turned out 27,000 pieces of silk valued at 2,600,000/. of these silks. England and Canada took for about 1,000,000Z. worth, the United States for about 700,000/., France for 280,000/., the Zollverein, Austria, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway for a similar sum, and the Levant and far East for 160,000/. Experts of The cotton manufactijrers are the next in importance genetaf" "" to the silk. The exports of cotton yarns and tissues rose from 20,945,119 lbs. in 1860 to 37,751,356 lbs. in 1871, and the estimated value fpom 3,527,505/. to 5,540,727/. showing therefore a difference as regards the former .of 80^ per cent,, and of 57 per cent, with respect to the latter. The increiase in the exports of yarns amounted to 321 per cent, against only 40^ per cent. in. tissues. Yams are chiefly exported to Alsace and Austria, raw and unbleached tissues to Alsace; and light-coloured tissues to Turkey, Asia Minor, Persia, the East Indies, Singapore, Batavia, Manilla, Japan, and BrazU. Exports of ' The exports of woollen yarns and manufactures S generir havc iucreg,sed even at a more rapid rate than those of silk and cotton ; but the total amount is insignificant and scarcely deserving of notice. They have risen from 349,242 lbs. in 1860 to 1,476,715 lbs. in 1871, an increase of 322f per cent. The estimated value ia 1860, was 59,844/. against 234,305/. in 1871, a rise of 291f per cent. Exports of s. The exports of Itnen fabrics is even less than that of generlf""'^ wooUcu as the foHowing figures wiU shoW: quantity exported in 1860, 296,426 lbs. ; ia 1871, 319,392 lbs. ; increase, 7f per cent. ; estimated value, 26,928/. in 1860, 25,888/. in 1871 ; decrease, 3f per cent. In addition to the above, many articles are exported from Switzerland, which do not properly come under any one of the foiu" preceding heads in- particular, though Exports of ] belonging to the class of textile fabrics. It was, for mechamcai instance, estimated in 1867 that mechanical embroideries v.„. „.„„ ^ ^^^ value of 400,000/. were annually exported. As since that date the number of embroidery machines has increased more than five-fold, it is to be assimied that embroideries. SWITZERLAND . 1?7 the value of this class of exports has advanced in like proportion from 400,000L to about 2,000,000Z., for the consumption in the country itself of this article is very small. Many millions of francs' worth of embroideries Embroderies by hand are likewise exported every year; but as to by hand, their actual value it is impossible to form even a rough estimate. In 1860 hosiery of all kinds (" Strumpfwirker- Hosiery, warren") was exported to the amount of 7,162 lbs. In 1871 it had increased to 91,971 lbs., or 1,184 per cent. Finally, the exports of straw hats, plaits, and articles straw hats, mixed with other textile materials have been subject *^°- to great fluctuations, their annual value varying from 200,000Z. to upwards of 400,000Z. It would, therefore, seem that within the last twelve Appioximate years (from 1860 to 1871) the total annual export of LTiet textile fabrics have increased nearly 100 per cent, and exports, that their present value can scarcely be calculated at less than between 28,000,000Z. and 30,000,000?. This estimate is so largely in excess of any of those previously made that it is given with extreme difB.dence. However, a reference to the Tables annexed to this report, as well as to the Swiss Ofllcial Report on the Paris Exhibition of 1867 will show in detail the data on which it is based. In examining the causes which may have most Causes which actively contributed to the extraordinary development of ta^eied.to Swiss industry, the first place must be conceded to the exports. Swiss manufacturer himself. His energy, his persever- The Swiss ance, and his economy have enabled him to overcome m»Jiufa<:t"rer- all obstacles, and have finally landed him in the flxmly established and prosperous position, in which he now finds himself. In manner, appearance, and dress, he is hardly to be distinguished from his workman. He is one of the first in his office and generally the last to leave the factory. He transacts all the business con- nected with it, for he imports directly the raw materials, superintends himself its manufacture, and eventually exports the produce. As far as possible he dispenses with the services of overseers, cashiers, clerks, &c. He is in constant contact with his workmen, over whom he has thus been hitherto able to preserve his influence, though symptoms are not wanting that it is on the wane. He resides close to his factory, and lives in the most simple and frugal style imaginable, however wealthy he may 128 SWITZERIiAND. be. Except in the great industrial centres such as Bale and Zurich, it would be difficult to find a Swiss manu- facturer whose personal expenditure, including that of his family, exceeds 400Z. or 500/. a-year, This rigid economy, which is invariably adhered to, enables him not only to be satisfied with very small profits -, but to tide over successfully seasons of depression in trade. Moreover, he is exceedingly cautious, and his business transactions are, as a rule, comparatively limited. "Were it not for these cu-cumstances Swiss industry could never have been created, and still less could it have attained its present importance. The Swiss ~ The Swiss workman is in most respects inferior to workmaD. ^^^ British workman. He has neither the physical strength, nor the energy and activity of the latter. He is stolid in appearance, apathetic in temperament, slow and awkward in his movements, yet he is by no means wanting in intelligence. He is steady, methodical, industrious, and painstaking, Though of a saving dis- position, no inducement in the shape of higher wages wiU stimulate him to extra exertion. Education having developed his reasoning powers, he is not easily misled by false representations as often occurs elsewhere, and has a keen perception of his true interests, which he knows to be identical with those of his employers. He therefore quietly submits to the exigencies of his position, however trying they may be. As will be subsequently shown these quahties in the Swiss workman have, though little noticed, greatly contributed to the develop- ment of Swiss industry. Length of the Up to the present moment, the average length of the working day. -^^orking day throughout Switzerland is twelve hours, exclusive of the time necessarily required for the different meals, and a short rest in the middle of the day. In some remote localities it is still fourteen hours; in many, from thirteen to twelve and a half; in the greater number, twelve ; and, finally, in a few not more than ten. The general tendency is, however, to reduce it, and laws have been passed limiting its length in some cantons to twelve hours in summer and eleven in winter, and at Geneva to ten all the year round. These changes are almost entirely due to the efforts of local politicians, the working classes themselves having taken but a very secondary part in the matter. A proposal of this nature, recently made by the SWITZERLAND. 129 Government of Zuricli, and sanctioned by the cantonal legislature, was eventually thrown out by the popular vote. A more striking proof of the indifference, to say the le ist of the Swiss working classes on this point, could scarcely be desired, for Zurich is the most important manufacturing canton, and, on such occasions as the above, the whole population directly takes part in the vote. Great divergence of opinion exists as to the maximum niimber of hours per day during which a workman can be employed with most advantage to his master, and at the same time without overtasking his strength. All seem, however, agreed that a day of ten hours of actual work is, under any ordinary circum- stances, the least that can be required of an operative. Although the rates of wages in Switzerland have Rates of wages risen rapidly within the last two or three.years, they must even now be at least from 40 to 50 per cent, below those actually ruling in England. It must, nevertheless, be remembered that the nominal amount of wages is no criterion as to the real cost of production, or, at any rate, a very deceptive one. Looking at the question in this light, it will be seen that the difference in wages between the two countries, though considerable, is not so startling as it appears at first. It is asserted by. competent judges, both manufacturers and workmen, that the English operative will get through as much, if not more work in ten hours than the Swiss in twelve. Then again, in Switzerland, the number of hands employed per 1,000 spindles ranges between 6^ to 9J, and does not average less than 8 to 8^, whereas, if correctly informed, the average in England is not above 7. The extra consump- tion of coal, as well as the additional wear and tear of machinery, should likewise be taken into consideration. Therefore, making every due allowance for the inferiority of the Swiss operative, which is admitted on all sides, perhaps even somewhat exaggerated, the cost of produc- tion under the head of wages would be at least about a third, or from 30 to 35 per cent, less at the present, moment than in England. Much contradictory evidence Controversj was adduced before the Erench Parliamentary Commis- jrenXaSd sion of Inquiry in 1869 on this very subject. On the one Swiss hand, the Erench manufacturers insisted that wages in "gpelfcig'^" Switzerland were 30 per cent, lower than in Erance. On wages in the the other han d, M. Ereer-Herzog denied that the difference *^° •"='^'"*^- [150j K 130 SWITZERLANli. Swiss manu- factories are scattered all over the country. Seasons which prevent Swiss operatives from emi- grating from one part of the country to thej other. was by any means so considerable. In fact, he men- tioned that the average throughout both would be foimd to be very nearly the same, if, instead of comparing the rates ia the remote valleys of Switzerland with those of the great industrial centres of France,, a careful compari- son had been established between the wages in factories similarly situated in either country. He further argued that, were the difference such as it had been represented, the Swiss operatives would naturally have emigrated to Prance, since the cost of living was the same, whilst rents, and the price of clothes, were higher in Switzerland. Without wishing to call in question the correctness of an assertion made by so competent an authority, two rather important facts may be stated which tend somewhat to invalidate it, and which seem entirely to have escaped his notice. The first is that the Swiss manufacturers are not clustered together in large towns, or in their environs, as frequently happens elsewhere, but are scattered all over the country, and especially along the remote valleys, for the simple reason that using water either whoUy or partially as their motive power, they naturally seek the spots where the supply is most abiuidant and constant. TQierefore, the rates ruling at Bale, Zurich, and Winter- thur shoiild hardly be accepted as the true average of wages in Switzerland, since the number of factories in those three towns bears but a small proportion to the rest. In other great manufacturing countries the reverse happens, for the rates ia the large towns usually iadicate the general average. The second point previously alluded to is that a very considerable. portion, if not the majority, of Swiss opera- tives could not, even if they wished, abandon thek homes witbout entailing serious consequences on themselves. They own land or the cottages they reside in, whatever savings they may have put by are invested in the local banks. As members of their communes they derive certain advantages which held them to eke out their existence in comparative comfort. Moreoveri the in- fluence of local and family ties is still very great among them. Otherwise the inequalities which exist in the rates of wages ia different localities withia easy access of each other would be inexplicable, conseqyiently, if the prospect of higher wages does not cause Swiss operatives to migrate in any appreciable number from one adjoioing SWITZERLAND. 131 district to another, tlie fact of their not emigrating in a mass to France can hardly be held to disprove the alleged difference of wages between the two countries. Owing mainly to this peculiar circumstance, the increased numerous factories to be constantly met with in remote l^^^^^ and almost inaccessible vaUeys are enabled to compete compensated on equal terms with those more advantageously situated, jocaiiteby In the north-east of Switzerland, for instance, the lower rates ot current prices of cotton and silk goods are those ruling ^^^^^' on the Zurich Exchange. It foUows that the manu- facturers at the greatest distance from that central market have to pay the heaviest freights not only on the raw material, and the 'coal they require, but hkewise on their manufactured goods. The extra expense they thereby incur is such that they would soon be compelled to close their factories, but for the compensation they find in. lower wages and also to some extent in. a better and more constant water supply. Hence the difficulty, DifEcuitj; of not to say the impossibility, of accurately determining ^„g',^/°"^ the general average of wages in Switzerland, all the in- average of formation collected from various sources with regard to Tabies^^^* this particular subject will be found in the Tables at the nos. 21, 22 end K)f the Report. ''°'^23)-' Fortunately for Switzerland she has at her command Switzerland an almost unlimited supply of water power. M. Freer- u^um^ted °^ Herzog, in. his evidence, states thjit the proportion supply of between the water and steam power employed in the ^^^'^"P"^^'^ factories of the canton of St. Gall is 19 to 12, and in other districts about 100 to 20. A recent official inquiry proves that in the canton of Glaris that the proportion is 14 to 1, and in the canton of Zurich 33 to 8. From these figures it may be safely inferred that water furnishes about 85 per cent, of the motive power required by the Swiss manufacturers. Before a correct estimate can be formed of the real Large outlay ; value of the' enormous saving thus effected by the em- obtaS^neees- ployment of water in lieu of steam, due allowance has to sary hydrauiu be made for the first outlay, which is generally very ^°^^^' considerable. In order to secure and regulate the requisite supply of water, either expensive works have to be constructed, or the factories themselves built in positions difficult of access. It is calculated that the average cost per horse-power is 50 per cent, higher than in steam factories, the expenditure being estimated in K 2 132 SWITZERLAND. Annual) expenditure per horse- power in steam engines. Annual expenditure per horse- power in hjdraulic engines. Avera ge expenditure in Swiss faetorjep per horse- power per annum. Disadvantages Swiss manu- facturers have to contend against. Cost of buildings, machinery, &c. Working capita Switzerland at 60Z. as regards the former and 40/. the latter. Besides, comparatively few factories can entirely dispense with the use of steam as an auxiliary power. The water supply is liahle occasionally to diminish or to fail altogether in winter, although in summer, from the melting of the snow on the higher ranges of mountains, it is almost always abundant. It is likewise a matter of extreme difficulty to find the exact amount of motive power requisite. In Switzerland the annual expenditure per horse- power for steam engines may be reckoned at 14Z., including interest and sinking fund at 10 per cent, on the original capital (40Z.) In the above estimate due allowance 1 as been made for the high price (24s. on an average per 1,000 kilog.), and inferior quality of the coal, the large consumption in the old-fashioned steam engines still in general use, and the wages of the stokers, &c. With regard to hydraulic engines the only item to be considered is the yearly interest and sinking fund on the first outlay (60/.), which at the same rate of 10 per cent., only come to 61. Therefore the difference ia favour of the latter as compared to the former is, according to this calculation, no- less than 133 per cent. Admitting, however, that the whole of the steam engiaes (15 per cent, of the entire number) hare to be kept continuously at work, which is far from bemg .really the case, still the average annual cost per horse-power m the S\riss factories cannot amount to more than 7/., and is probably a good deal less. This estimate, which differs as widely in one sense from the French estimates as it does in the- other from the Swiss, can, of course, only be considered as approximate, although it has been drawn up with the utmost care. In this respect also the advantage is evidently on the side of Switzerland, m spite of the greater cheapness of machmery and coal m Ensrland. „ , , ■ At the same time the Swiss manufacturer has many and serious disadvantages to contend .against. The capital he requires is out of proportion with the extent of his transactions. The first outlay for buildings, machinery, &c., is, compared with other countries, excessive: the average cost per 1,000 spindles amount- ing to between 2,000Z. and 2,400/. The workmg capi^ is also larger than elsewhere, for the majority of Swiss SWITZERLAND. ^ 133 manufacturers both import the raw material they re- quire, and export at their own risk the produce of their manufactories. In this way they, no doubt, avoid paying commissions, &c., but the returns are very slow, as a year or eighteen months often elapse between the date of the purchase of the raw material and the realization of the proceeds of the sale of their goods. At the same time it must be remembered that they can seldom obtaia money at less than from 5 to 6 per cent, per annum, and that in Switzerland hardly any of those commercial facilities exist wbich have so successfully conduced to develop trade ia England. These drawbacks are but trifling in comparison to Freights (le^ those resulting from the heavy freights to be paid on the and 22). ° ' raw material. Moreover Switzerland, as is well known, consumes but a very small portion of the products of her industry, which are principally exported to America, the Levant, and the far East, so that in most instances she has to pay double freights. The great distance over Effect of which her goods have to be conveyed for shipment, freights. accounts for the cost of carriage being.so high, that to a considerable extent it both neutralizes the advantages she possesses in other respects and restricts her manu- factures to articles of a light description. It is almost needless to state that the greater the value or the smaller the quantity of the raw material employed in the manufacture of any given description of goods, the less its price is affected by the expense of transport. Consequently, the Swiss have found it most to their advantage to increase their production of sUk goods, and to limit that of cotton goods to fine yarns' and light tissues. The freight on raw silk, which is princi- Freights on pally drawn from Marseilles comes to about 6 c. (Id.) ^'"^" per pound., including duty (32s. on 1,000 kilog.), and aU other expenses. Taking the value of raw silk to be as low as 20s. a pound, this sum would merely amouAt to -^ per cent. The freights on raw cotton which Freight^on is, mostly imported from England, vary very much <=""°°- according to its quality, and the route by which it is forwarded. They average about 8/. to SI. 10s. per 1,000 kilog., duty (4s. 9^d.) and other expenses included. Supposing the raw cotion to be worth 6d. a pound, the freight as above would represent about 6 per cent, on the value. In the preceding estimate the freights 134 SWITZERLAND, Prices of coal. Det^Is regarding tlie condition of the principal branches of Swiss iudVEtr}'. mentioned are from Liverpool to the Swiss frontier at IJale. Between that town and Manchester the freights (exclusive of duty and aU other expenses) on manu- tactured goods amount, per 1,000 kilog., to lOZ. by quick tram, and to 4/. Us. 4p. by ordinary goods train. In order to complete the above information the following l^t IS given of the freights from the nearest ports to Bale on raw cotton per 1,000 kHog., and in parcels of not less than 5,000. Hamburgh. . Bremen Rotterdam via Rhine . Rotterdam by railway Amsterdam via Rhine Amsterdam by railway Antwerp Havre Marseilles Genoa Venice Trieste s. 1 18 1 14 1 7 1 14 1 12 1 17 1 7 2 1 18 2 15 2 7 2 15 d. H 4| 7 4f "2 4, The foregoing statement will suffice to prove how heavily freights press on Swiss industry ; but once the St. Goihard hne is opened, the change iu this respect cannot fail to be highly beneficial, since it will bring the principal manufacturing districts into easy and direct communication with Genoa and Venice. Einally, Switzerland has also to import all the coal consumed in her territories from the Saar district. This coal is generally of inferior quality, and the price varies considerably in different parte of the country. Whilst, for instance, it costs 18s. per 1,000 Mlog. at Bile, the price is 20s. at Aarau, 24s. at Zurich, and 28s. at Coire. The quantity consumed is, however, relatively so small, that it does not raise the cost of production in general to any very appreciable extent. The supply of wood has much diminished of late years, and it is very doubtful if it is ever used as a substitute for steam coal. There are in the neighbourhood of the Lake of Zurich some mines of anthracite and Ugnite, but of such bad quality as only to be useful for drying purposes. Before bringing this Beport to a conclusion, it is necessary to add a few details respecting the condition of each of the principal branches of Swiss industry. The gross imports of silk, raw, bleached, dyed, spun, or thrown^ SWITZERLAND. 135 wMch in 1860 were 3,952,248 lbs. had risen in 1871 to imports of 8,156,823 lbs., showing therefore an increase of ^^(j^^^'^^'''^ 4,204,575 lbs. = lOe^ per cent. The net imports at the s^' Takes above dates were respectively 2,321,637 lbs. and Nos.2and6. 3,710,186 lbs. ; difference in favour of the latter, 1,388,549 lbs. = 59f per cent. The average consump- tion during the above period came to 2,631,541 lbs. per annum. The apparent discrepancy between the con- sumption of silk and the exports of silk tissues and ribbons, &c., the latter being considerably larger in amount than the former, is easily accounted for. Pirst, imder the heading of silk tissues, are included in the Swiss B-etums all stuffs, in the texture of which silk enters for 50 per cent. Secondly, as regards ribbons, 10 per cent, has on an average to be deducted from the gross weight of the massive wooden reels still in common use among Swiss manufacturers. The imports of silk are made up as foUows : — Cocoons and waste silk 1,501,925 lbs. in 1860 to 3,523,728 lbs. in 1871; increase 2,021,803 lbs. = 134f per cent., deducting the exports there remamed 983,623 lbs. in 1860 to 1,997,479 lbs. in 1871 ; difference, 1,013,856 lbs. = 103 per cent. Silk, raw, carded, spun, or thrown, 2,453,190 lbs. in 1860 to 4,446,174 lbs. in 1871 ; increase, 1,992,984 lbs. = 8H per cent. ; deducting the exports, there remained 1,784,473 lbs. in I860 to 1,521,289 lbs. in 1871 ; decrease, 263,184 lbs. = 14f per cent. Silk, bleached or dyed, and sewing silk, 5,571 lbs. in 1860 to 204,212 lbs. in 1871; increase, 198,641 lbs., exports included under the preceding headings. The in- ference to be drawn from these figures is, that the exports of spun and thrown silk, &c., have increased at a very rapid rate, and absorb a considerable portion of the silk imported. The quantity of cocoons imported is relatively small, and but little raw silk is re-exported. The number of manufactories of silk tissues is stated Number of to have been 120 or thereabouts in 1867, of which 113 ^&ctories were in the canton of Zurich. According to a recent publication issuing from the Statistical Department of that canton, there were only forty-seven silk factories of all kinds on the 1st of December, 1870. The number of hand-looms in 1855 was officially ascertained to be 25,291, and in 1867 it was estimated at 30,000. The total number of looms is now said to be about 25,000, 136 SWITZERLAND. Opeiatives in siUi factories. Riblxm factories, &c. See Table No. 23. Imports of cotton (see Table No. 1), See Tables Nos. 3 and 6. including between 700 and 800 mechanical looms. The nun:ber of weayers, reelers, &c., exclusive of dyers, dres,ers, foremen, &c., was calculated in 1867 to be over 36,000, and is probably much greater at the present mom mt. The wages of the operatives engaged in this parti- cular branch of the silt trade, are at this moment so exceptionally high that they can hardly remain much longer at their present rate. These operatives, the majority of whom are employed iu their homes, are generally paid according to the amount of work they • perform. In 1867 there were 85 ribbon factories, and close on 9,000 looms; of this number between 1,500 and 1,600 were power looms. Bale is the priucipal seat of the ribbon trade, which, was then supposed to afford occupation to about 27,000 hands at, comparatively speaking, high wages. In addition to the above, there were 16 silk- throwing mills ; 21 silk-spinning mills, employing between 4,000 and 5,000 men ; and 10 silk-sewing factories. Pinally, silk in small quantities is produced in the canton of Tessin and in some parts of that of Valais. The gross imports of cotton rose from 37,3i7,120 lbs. in 1860 to 60,593,390 lbs. in 1871, being an increase of 23,246,270 lbs. = 62| per cent. The net imports ^ose from 32,718,760 lbs. in 1860 to 42,759,991 lbs. in 1871, increase, 10,041,231 lbs. = 30| per cent., the average annual consumption being 26,975,641 lbs. The net imports may be taken to represent the amount actually converted into tissues. Of raw cotton and waste there were imported 36,602,506 lbs. in 1860 and 58,612,580 lbs. in 1871, an increase of 22,010,074 lbs. = 60 per cent. ; deducting the exports of 'the same there remained 34,826,139 lbs. in 1860 and 52,895,922 lbs. in 1871, increase, 18,069,783 lbs. = 51| per cent. The importa- tion of raw cotton yarn and twist amounted to 428,939 lbs. in 1860 and 1,293,338 lbs. in 1871, increase, 864,399 lbs. = 201| per cent. The quantity of bleached or dyed yarns, twist, and thread imported came to 395,462 lbs. in 1860 and 816,919 lbs. in 1871, increase, 421,457 lbs. = 106f per cent. The returns only give the total exports of yarns, &c., of all kinds under one heading, •ind they greatly exceeded the imports, the net amount SWITZEBLAND, 137 exported being 2,037,479 lbs. in 1860 and 10,011,582 lbs. in 1871, an increase of 8,007,103 lbs. = 392f per cent. The above calculations prove, therefore, that by far the greatest increase has taken place in the exports of yarns in general. The estimated number of spindles in Switzerland was. Number of in the year 1850, between 1,000,000 and 1,100,000. ^p'°^^^- In 1867 it had risen to 1,554,527 as far as it could be ascertained. Later statistics give the number at a little over 1,660,000. In the Table annexed to the report it is now estimated at between 2,200,000 and 2,500,000. See Table This statement has been made on the authority of one of ^''' ^^' the most competent men in the country, to form an opinion on the subject. Two years ago he found after a careful inquiry that there were 2,200,000 spindles, and he calculates that a considerable increase has taken place since 'then. The correctness of his estimate is, moreover, borne out by facts, as can easily be proved. Supposing the average annual consumption of cotton per spindle in Switzerland to be 25 lbs. as in England, the number in 1871 would be 2,115,836, since the net imports of raw cotton amounted in that year to 52,895,922 lbs. ; but there is good reason to presume that the average in Switzerland must be somewhat lower for, in general, only the finest sorts of yarns are manufactured. The numbers of the yarns spun in Switzerland run from Numbers oi No. 10 to No. 300, No. 12 is the lowest in ordinary use. l^Sured. It is estimated that No. 40 furnishes one-half of the total prodtictioTi. It is employed in the manufacture of coarse calicoes and coloured tissues ; fine tissues, muslins and tarlatanes are made with Nos. 60 to 200. The higher number are principally exported to France. "With regard to the cost of manufacturing the different Estimated cost kinds of yarns, it is extreniely difficult to form an exact of^'^r^sfs™ estimate, as the amount depends upon a great variety of Tables circumstances. In the evidence produced before the f^)- ^^ """^ Erench Parliamentary Commission, the following estimate of the cost in Switzerland per kilog. was handed in. by one of the Erench witnesses : — Fr. c. d. Warp, No. 40 . . . . . . 67 = 6^ „ No. 50 .. .. .. 1 15 11 „ No. 60 . . • . . . . 1 50 14i exclusive of interest on capital and amortization. The 138 SWITZERLAND. See Table No. 21. Number of looms. Average cost per loom. Cost of manu> facturing. actual cost per kilog. at Bale is stated on excellent authority to be 60 c, about 6d., for 20's, and 80 c, about 8d., for 40's. This statement is confirmed by information obtained from another equally trustworthy source in a different part of Switzerland, the cost for No. 40 twist ("Gespinnst") being estimated at between 80-28 c. (8d.) to 81'4 c. (8d.) This amount is made up as follows : interest and amortization on capital (43 fr. {11. 14s. 4|d.) per spindle), 17-22 c. (Ifd.) ; general expenses, 34-80 c. (3id.); and wages from 28-26 c. to 29-38 c. (2H) Tull details as regards the numbers from 70 to 140 inclusive will be found in a separate Table at the end of the report, M. Bexteau of the firm of Hurliman and Company having most obligingly furnished a detailed account of the working expenses of his spinning mills, and of the average production per spindle. There are no means of ascertaining the actual number of looms ; but in 1867 there were, it is stated, 42,569 hand looms, and 13,086 power looms, or altogether about 55,655. Since that date a great increase must have taken place, at any rate in the number of power looms, for ia the canton of Zurich they had risen in December 1870, from 3,645 to 6,265. The outlay per loom is estimated at 60/. for white tissues, and .120/. for coloured tissues. The cost of manufacture is roughly, calculated at 33^ per cent, additional on the value of the yam as regards calicoes, destined to be printed. The following Table, extracted from the Minutes of the French Parliamentary Commission wilT show the esti- mated expense per loom per day in Switzerland : — Strokes per minute, 120. Wages General expenses Interest, &c. . . Total Strokes per minute, 130. Wages General expenses ' . • Interest, &c. . . Total Fr. c. 92 = 35 26 d. 9 H 1 53 14i 97 = 37 26 91 1 60 154 SWITZERLAND. Strokes per minute, 140. Fr. c. d. Wages .. 1 2 10 General expenses .. 39 3| Interest .. 26 2i Total .. 1 67 16i Strokes per minute, 150. Wages • .. 1 6 lOi General expenses .. 41 Interest .. 26 Total ,. 1 73 16| \m The mimber of workmen employed is on an average Average one to three power looms, from fire to seven looms ^^^enper being driven by one horse-power. FinaUy, the actual loom, and price at Zurich of cotton, low middling is said to be cotton a™^" 2 fc. 50 c. = 2s. per kUog. Zurich. Most of the tulles, muslias, and cambrics, em- Embroideries broidered in Switzerland, are still impofted from abroad, maehto^°and chiefly from England. The present number of em- workmen, broidering machmes is about 7,000, at which 16,256 workmen and workwomen are occupied. As the pro- portion between the numbers employed at mechanical embroidering and embroidering by hand is about two to five, the total number may be estimated at from 40,000 to 50,000. Strange to say nearly one half of these are to be found in Germany, for the Swiss manu- fecturers send the stuffs to be embroidered to the Vorarlberg, and to different parts of Bavaria, Wurtem- berg, Baden, and Sigip.aringen. The. exports both of linen and woollen fabrics are so Wooiien and unimportant as not to require any special notice. These {^"g^Tabilr two branches of Swiss industry are in a comparatively Nos. 4, 5, and; backward state, and their produce generally of a coarse ^^' quality, is mostly consumed in the country itself. The advantages possessed by Switzerland, and the Concluding disadvantages she has to contend agaiast in competing "^s™^*^- with the textile fabrics of Great Britain may be shortly summed up : on the one hand, the use of water power as a substitute for steam power to the extent of upwards of 80 per cent, low wages, long hours of labour, and a minimum of expenditure as regards management, &c. On the other hand, heavy freights on the raw material as well as on her manufactures, workmen inferior in activity, comparatively large outlay as regards buUdings, 140 SWITZEKIANB. macliiiiery, &c., tlie drawbacks inseparable from 'pro- duction on a small scale, want of capital and of many of the commercial facilities to be found elsewhere. The balance seems to be already greatly in her favour and, under present circumstances, cannot fail to become still greater from day to day. Berne, February 24^ 1873. SWITZERL4.ND. 141 o CO CO CD i in I O -4-2 Pi • rH m i I OS !§ (D I o o o •uranuB jad puc *:}U33 jad .O-f ^., . rH CO . •ratiuaB jad puB -^uao jad 'asesjanx . . , CO OS TP Oa O CO . OS t^ ... (M rH . (N 1 ,iccomorti>«':oco--fOrta4 '^'o^co'rHca'or-Heo'oocootrrH hrjr-IOOii— iCCI>.COi— ll>.if300Tl» • q' rH tNj^ t^ !>, 00^ -.ooosa5cOrH->*coco-^ OTl«r-ecO"^t-»4ni>.eOrH .eOrHr-i>.OMTP^irteOeoc.-^iraOSOiOCs ^cKTcooTco'^oroftotCift'coTir 1 i S O . t>. 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QQCOaOOOCOCOCOOOQOOOCOOO SWITZERLAND. 147 u O Oh X b o ^ bo • -'^(DeOrHCO^OCOCOinCD^inr-J fl s H S3 — 2t,i-i^OOO]CO'*t>-**Cl*CS'-(.— ir-iOi« 1 • Ml— iOCsCM W|>.-^ift».-^coocoOi-HtnTt<-n rH i>-.«Doooo^eoocc ::Q C cOOOD«t^tO"*""^W"^ CCCO(N«COCQCCeOCC«COm •00:.l>.NOi^^'-^»C".-'i.OeO •OiTtfO-^COOOi— 'Ol'-'tOOl ^Ninooo(Mt->.oo?otriaO"*o -^QO«50000iO»«30'^QOaO«0 ^ (NpHNMaot»i— 1 ci fa • t-i— ((NOOOTht^i— OiOiftt^ 1^ '2l>«^'n*ft»'5<^COC.-T^Tt<.05-*J*QC 33 C rHrH(NNrH •cscomtMi-^ioOcoeo-^Ciirt ScOt^>ft(N(MCOCnp-il->.OOil>. 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" a est) ■a"3 o o 1^ Socs-tr^-^tOTfiThmciOio ^OaOl^QOOOF^TPt^COrHiOrHlO 2 lO to CO eo OiCseo to eotC-.-*'<1*0DNas»O .ooooi-i-^*^r-reacsooNeot>. mooi>.cocoeootoiMcoi>it* 43 »n to to cg^iOt^to en o -* «5 cu ^ rH ef oT cT ■«* to -d? o? o rH oT 00 Ufi— II— t i-irHr-li— 1»— iM«i-HCM cototocotococoeototo»^t>. 00 00 00 QO 00 00 00 00 OO 00 00 00 SWITZERLAND. 149 o K .2 It SeOCTirHtDW'^PF-tcOiOTHcOI:^ to r-^tCcOiOTfl'iOtOCOlC^O^l-Ct-C ;s t^co a»t-.TTtt^co'^ocoTf »o M-*Q0(MO»ftr-(OOlCac«3O^ ^ !>. lO i-l 00 W ira to « ^■^TfaomNinC4eocooot>>u3 Qrp^,-lFHrH«-4Fli-ii-lr-tl-li-Hi-H ■a 1 _200cOWt*COeO-*«OS0DCOQ0 HO*-eoo»flo.-ieo«oo»oio ^t>.'^OtOOitOt*OcOO'^Oi m-cd'of Thi^N i-?rCo?e4 Qo'wtC ;aQot>.eoeo»ft»ratooiooco«>'* M)« iO CD t^ « -^W O •* t^rH CO M rH fh 1-7 i-T i-T M i-T oT MOOCOQOaiNCOTf<000«300 ,£» CO CO ci OS Ti< ■«< eo C» N .(N'*eoooto-*«*ooeo»n OT-fl<0(OiOOiO».ir3 00:ieOiOTtiQ0003 ji-rcO ;5«i-H«P-ICOcONCOOaDCOrH 5P (N CO ■* 0» pi) 22oa»>.OOi"*tDcOpHco^ococri r2cO»OI>.iOCOIM TPi-ii— li-HC^ .COtD-3'i-.iOt>iCft«0«3CO»-^0 +3F-i^-Ttt mi-icoeooamotneoeoc. .Os^^OiCi-^COtOi-IONClCft (niftt-cor^eoc.00C4O^ ^O flO-SO tOC050CDtDtOeO«>.t^ COCOQOCDQOOOaOOOODCOOOOO ■a S •s ^ - - « ., a r- 1 I— t r-l rH i-H r-l n 150 SWITZERLAND. bD I a 05 O i i 3QOcOi-t-^i-ieorsiOeo o a» to 04oa4Qincx}roi-Hoi'« oioomoaooa-^ooini— (-^eo .o •— iiOiOt^r^aiX>.oo;o at osoi-^aioa-^ooojtoeotoo ^eQr*?DF^»ncoeo»Ortor*'^ rd i-4tCoc»o'eDca a» »n CO 00 »-H ' I— « Tt< O !>. iO o -^ «o m -^ 00 eJ o th' CO CJ CO OS w o CO A CO tn i-H a 3^ CO eo CO CO "^ ■>* c6' eo' co' CO CO -^ W •tN.I-HWQOCJCO'* ^COeO'^r^WK-.CS CO I-) O O « to Oi • »>«i-^ira*^co^co 'gcOtOiOi-Hts.tOCO !>. -^ « C^ to r-1 1^ t-1 tS tiCi O CO o> i-t CS O 1-1 to -^ -^ 00 .-1 CO O CO a^ '■^r^ •i— icoei«— I-*— towoc-toeo Scooii-itONTpi— oom'Teo*^ p;eacoO"*tocOiOi— tiiit'-coo ^p- fI>.QOiO-*»rttDcOI>«tOt>«l~^ mo.oooat-'^t^co'^oco'vi.o '^COif3«— ICJCOOJNCstOtOOi-— f [^ »OeOi-HOCO"*r-liO'-^Ci*>-ifS r^tOcOOOlC^IOS'^tOi— (t^OcH ^ Tj<-^QOinciiiooJ^totoooi>-to *!3 00 .S '"' COOlOOOtOt-rHi-teOOli- c=>0>eooDdOp-il>.iOtoe OOCO-^QOO(NtOODI>>tOC cgtC'^ooj^-^ocoeoe ^ioooio>oaoo]r«QOi OOr-itOeOi-»ootoeo>>>toooa»oooi>> m-^oooir^ociiinr^aoootocq ^ T(|^ojioo to in *^"5.^'^"^*^*1 P tCc* to COtO CO to eo o NcToo QfOStO'^C4tOOOOOU30C4i-t09 ^(Noar-i.-i,-i.-(I>>C4QOI>>OiOStO • u?tn'^'Tfir-tJ>*O00000CO0D )^WOa00t>.»O OJ-^CMtO»Oi-« "o"tC«o-^eOi-H'cn«>^co'(-?o ■^i-Hi-ioieoooc*»>-cacoi-H I— l-^l>,000»i— llOr- l-^t^ (NCO0f(NCrFH'cfc4"cJc0eO ,^ ■-a' uj ~^i wa -^i UU ^-1 UJ V^ ^J w< KS G"^"^*^ to o-^ OcO-^CO i-'*^ ei -^oTcD ■^oT 00 00 oT CO eTi-T CO QfNt-ieaMp-iF-*r-lr-QOOSOp-» c COtOtOcOCOtOtOtOtOtOt>Bt<» S 001000000000000000000009 S SWITZERLAND. 151 O CO 00 (D ^- 0 rH 00 K tJ( i-H 6i lO r-(_» ■# fiS QOec Occ'cToo'crr-r^QO CO cT (Oiacoaaoi— •Oci9oaR««0(Mo4 y*QO t-^ cd" l> t^ OT rH CO T*r ^^ of ira" J=i-(r-irHrHi-li-l(n(»«CN(f»C4 2«t-OBr-(r-lt-Oi-ICO-*OaO SwO*OlW0OOSCO^r-""3 00i— < TO O N « eOO W3 O O t-T^ (N rH ^OiOl 050*0* QOi-HC* COO COCO r HO*C*C4C*Ol __.-,^„. . ._„ — _„,. . j^Tgi -■ I— 1> -^^O »« i-i Oi^eO O CO » os_ ■ jA eo'io oTc* of cTr-To ocTi-- CO mcoua'SctuBtoc^t-t^t^eDOl ■pS «) 00 «D as ec •* ffl ^ CO w GO I— ' ^of c* coio CO ■^M"t> o'er o ef H-^iffl-^eD # 0» Ot_CO 1/3 ■* t~^0 »0 Ifi £>.Ol -^Ocoeoeoo* 3 1— I O oo_"* eo OS -^ «o »o «D^co o !P« coco" -ai'Tp'M '^eo'co «"(-<' of (>4Qot«u30aa«ooo«otco^co '-''C»0»CQ--i-< O lO W3 rH ^-oeDOOt-osc*t-l>-co« j(tot-cif-iti« ■— ■iOCC0»-^0*OtJIi— I010&-0 Ss^'^'O-titcOt-rteOcoia-*-* ojMO*!— oaoi— 'oseoojoo — e-l»"3C3c*0D — IS C*_^QD T? U3 CO O O_^ira_t0_0 OS ,(2<3^tO-*C»t>(--?3QOOT}iOS »l>-i— ^C^XlO■#l>■t-0»C^n^- ±ioeococoi>-^^c«t-ca-^co 3j— >CD(:0-^OOJC»C*^U S_U3 C*_CO O -?^C0_O O «3 U -2s J3 o a'3 o £ i aa^t>ab_ia^a> o> c* os oo ^a is >- ,5 C< CC'rH of of C4 of Cf CO COCOin" toeoeoi>-w30oacoio-^oooc* ^ t-cM ■— ' t-o* MS CO t^t-tr-^ CO F^ oeo -^00 cTcT^of io"af t-^co' «c*i-i«r-tcoeoe*coococOi-< ■=] « CO -^ Ol 9 s Sosb-ooa-^tocOi-HcocDcoas H C<*i-ICOO*r o !2i Oi— ie*eo-*KB-ooesOr-t cDtoeosoeocotosD'oeo t-"t^ 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00- aocooQcooDcocooqapcocoao 152 Switzerland. •o i :^ ; ; <~ it-OO :t~T*( -* r Eh O -■s tji ei oi ct ct ot « « ^ ^ 'T T H - £0»t-^Ct OrHO cot- 'J CO 93-^ -H ^ u; ni CM CO CO t- O •?> ec cs -: -^ — to t-CMCI coe»o t- oomo I— lO OJor '00 o>« , . , _>C»iflO . ^t>: la CO o >-H ">.u ta^toa - •*OOeoeO'— l^*0-^^Jl-l :s i-T Qo" Qo" 20 lo i-I o" «r lo irTeo 0'*Cl(M5CeQOlCC"3Ir-CO'* H 0» O i>;CO t>»_ -* CO e* r-f^ iO_-* o cc oi" CI OQ eo"of « >o" t^ c-^sc msat-l— ni-*«0>oa0O0lM5«0 •! .CriOi— tf-Hr-ii— — ' =^_^C»_oo «o cc la <0_0 ao « ^ OOioi" lii'ct CO rJ'r-^-rfTca'crr-J' g-^a3-Tj'Oies>-'s-"CSCMCl^tT-* i-3(— «oos w 0*00 oei -""r-Tcs t> CI ©"oTeo w es QO o nH o CI CI c-« eo OS ■* I— f rH Ct Ol CI Ol CI CI =0 eo CI cc cnL'-aooQia«soir>iaoicoei'\ J CO — < (-< ^ oa 0> t^ O tr •= t- i-H ^ as <0 rH t- "* r-H »o CO O O US CO ,S cf tea? t^cTeo CO t^tr l>"CO CO Bi-40eocococot^coapeoc4u3 ;9 to U3 lO rH 00 «0 O ao TfTCI OS 03- ^m-eo" '*'»o' *""*" »o ^"*''*"so'co oJoat^mtcooca^ -T^eocoiaotO'-'C "Sao«oc»e*ci-*i- f> t> 10 9« CO (-#eo cif-ieOTjQaoc»r-i ^-'^eo CO -*■>*■* T*i ■* CO ^ OQ « CO . . . . e-.a o.-Ic3 52^^ &c. Silk Stuffs, &c. Francs. £ Francs. £ I860 20,276,100 811,044 201,492,620 8,059,704 1861 24,074,700 962,988 195,107,780 7,804,311 1862 29,219,900 1,168,796 247,880,920 9,915,236 1863 29,263,500 1,170,540 285,978,210 11,439,128 1864 23,907,950 956,318 276,405,850 11,056,234 1865 30,419,000 1,216,760 254,353,120 10,174,124 1866 28,622,900 1,144,916 282,797,830 11,311,913 1867 33,398,150 1,335,926 229,252,940 9,170,117 1868 43,128,650 1,725,146 225,160,920 9,006,436 1869 25,877,900 1,035,116 233,439,710 9,337,588 1870 *92,140,500 *3,685,620 311,594,640 12,463,785 1871 »132,892,750 »5,315,710 383,706,400 15,348,256 Cotton. Cotton 'V 'arn, &c. Cotton Stuffs, &c. Francs. £ Francs. £ 1860 5,192,330 207,693 82,995,310 3,319,812 1861 4,883,910 195,356 81,061,485 3,242,459 1862 6,653,544 266,141 83,591,645 3,343,665 1863 10,767,306 430,692 79,563,155 3,182,526 1864 7,913,782 316,551 81,410,155 3,256,406 1865 8,091,198 323,647 90,492,985 3,619,719 1866 7,047,748 281,909 96,955,155 3,878,206 1867 13,582,404 543,296 104,960,205 4,198,408 1868 19,109,110 764,364 113,293,590 4,531,743 1869 22,310,660 892,426 109,400,770 4,376,030 1870 19,748,994 789,959 100,131,445 4,005,257 1871 22,052,596 882,103 116,165,580 4,658,623 * The Swiss Custom-house returns do not cantaiu any indication of the value of the Imports and Exports. Therefore the values given in the above Table are merely- approximate. The valuations are based on the fcUowing scale : — Spun, Thrown Silk, Floret Silk, &c., at 5,000 francs per quintal = 110 lbs. English. Silk and Half-silk Stuffs, Ribbons, &c.„ 7,000 „ Cotton Varn, Twist, Thread, &c. „ 200 „ Cotton Cloths, Tapes, &c. ,, 500 „ Woollen Yams, &c. „ 412 50 Woollen Stuffs, &c. „ 475 „ Hemp, Flax, and Linen Yarn, Threads, &c. 162 50 Linen Cloths, &c. ,, 300 ,, Pack-cloth „ 50 „ 154 SWITZERLAND. Wool. Woollen Yam, &c. Woollen Stuffs, &c. Francs. £ Francs. £ 1860 75,396 3,015 1,420,725 56,829 1861 52,187 2,087 1,802,820 72,112 1862 92,689 3,707 877,819 35,112 1863 70,790 2,831 1,206,205 48,248 1864 146,602 5,864 1,423,437 56,937 1865 112,720 4,508 1,405,168 56,206 1866 . 71,687 2,867 1,078,799 43,151 1867 149,906 5,996 1,408,171 56,326 1868 769,312 30,772 1,589,207 63,568 1869 1,459,078 58,363 1,712,764 68,510 1870 1,639,349 65,373 1,705,357 68,214 1871 3,425,930 137,037 2,431,710 97,268 Hemp, Flax, and Linen. Hemp, Flax, and Linen Yam, &c. Linen Cloths, Tapes, &c. Pack-cloth. Francs. £, Francs. £ Francs. £ 1860 93,801 3,752 568,230 22,729 11,169 446 1861 35,561 1,422 989,880 39,595 5,622 224 1862 57,421 2,296 644,922 25,796 4,080 163 1863 220,762 8,830 ■ 838,458 33,538 8,823 352 1864 284,511 11,380 628,803 25,152 8,042 321 1865 405,293 16,211 752,370 30,094 5,286 211 1866 403,197 16,127 899,304 35,972 3,407 136 1867 199,492 7,979 634,896 25,395 15,080 603 1868 123,395 4,935 508,680 20,347 9,965 398 1869 156,034 6,241 795,204 31,808 19,326 773 1870 72,428 2',897 603,408 24,136 10,124 404 1871 133,989 5,359 491,289 19,651 21,923 876 SWITZERLAND. 155 O»0Cn«0r-t-^(MO^CDC0Q0 '^J^.M«>■*^>.cO'-'0Dr-^Ttl r^ NO]M<'iOiC»0'X'»ftOin^eO ed ^^,_,rHrHr-(rHnHrHrHWCa £ « # £■4 - c r-tiOOCSNOt^.-^ClCOirtt^. .tOCO^(NCOCO (MT^incjirar-icot^cocNjeooo ^ to t-T oo" cT CD (d' (N rt ira oa 1-C krt" 1^ o BLi y{NO-*oeOC^Os-^OmO(M a a; K . pt4^01>>00>-HcOCOOO)<:£>CO r-T i-T rn'r-T "«**ooo>-^mo^c»iortCKiiO '*OC»COO int»coo.COmOiCOCDt>.OS.o Pr^'d^OOa^MOif5rHineO>-H07 0D r-Ti-H 1-7 rH i-T i-H p-H of CO CO »n iLf3mi>.Q0t**>..»>.l>. Of-iO.-i*n«3i-iOOiO^(M »ococoo3!3icoi-H_r'.i-H^--m d coco'eococoeo'*'*'"Oira-^in 1 ■e o o OiftOl— (J>.cOCOOsOOOStO ■^csootoeocoooococot* nJ to CO <-i -* Oi i-H Os.ec> i>. tH -«P r-t Si^TininocO'^cJiNC'i'rHOoo S00Ttf-«'*0^(NOtocO.-|(NaicO Slt*500DOp-iOiirtOeOr*'rjfCO ^OOJr^OfOOcO-* int^C0r-l.i— !>*»« ^t^--COi-ll>.0»ntOi— fnH 2 OON O P-H CO 0?0 r-Tcft tCift cT S«3COO-^r-ir^(NiOQDnH«C5 2 <>:^'-^'-i'^««>;'^<^c^=^*^'«. &4rH0?^^lnO'*r^c^^000?<2«? N^^.-iOCOr-(cOO«Ot>.00Q0O^ «iO<:Otoeo«toiOeo«3ioi>.t^ COCOOOOOCOQOOOODQOCOOOQO 156 SWITZERLAND. ^ '3 ■g CO CO CO" o' w cb' »«' -5 C4 rH CO i-H CO « r-i (M M CO CO 00 «5 Tf ■^COOPO-^N-^in ^Ni-HO-tpeoo-o* ■g OcTcO «CoD O CO CO ;s ^ i-i w c» o S' o »>. t* 00 "^ ea o , CO GO (N i>> o> oo ^-t > at to 1-4 O C4 (N t£3 i-i to o eg 00 CO C4 CO Of r=;o>c4i-40«oeoeo _gcOOCOCOO)COC>l -g O CO OO CS to lO ■g i-i ifTco ,^iONI>.C1ini-tr-l OA j|0)t>*COi— <00COC>* COC^ -g (o Tp o o C4 CD C4 t>> in •-< p-< •-• ifS c-i -M 0> *^ -^ l-H CO ^ rH CO r^ pS O O »-• i-f «0 « CO i-H OS Oi e3T}<00rHeg 00 04r-< COO"^ ■S'^tOCOCOcDtOCO ^Wi-i c s ^ 1-K S ,2^inc>>MQoo]iO eSc0OC0Q0t>»i-«'* -geoooiooiaoo 'SQ0Ol»>'iOCOtOi-H -g Tjt CO 00 eo 00 i-» N eo CO CO 00 ^-1 eo O Tt* CO (M ^ooicor«tocoo -^ift ,^~, nOOsaO0>r^kOr-« COO) ■* »ft o *a o o *^ <* i 1 3 3 - B a -J ° t: » o fl CO S " "3 f^ tn -g — J to « fl g.a o-otS ^ § O ^ 01 n » o boea ^ fl **" s § •» o o^ > 2 •rt o (0 ■y oa m +3 £ s ° as B - „ O ™ a> S o H 03 t 2 ^^soodjaviM hIPM 3 .S « S 6 a) .2 ffl 13 •" § J S S 8 al "-Sj 2 ffl ja ■" .a ..-w.^^ coS a^ g ■a s!3 a"? ■" o "g S S 00 t| g" CO O S s „- & g B.a u ss D -S 2 ^ "3 S-i^ s § ;S 5 .S 3 fc sill 9 SWITZERLANn. 157 CS CO ooooooooco 8 00 oooooooooo .QOOOOOOOQO mOOOOCSOO O^O O 2 o o'ca'o'o ©"q-o qc" Scoooooopoo fJ4 r-rrH''r-"r-rr-i"«ro"'*"<» Tff rlr-lrHei o 8 o OQO O OOO O OOOOQO c oooooo ! oo OOO o'q 'ooooooo .— I Ot CO »0 O •* lO o o oo OO o o :oooo ^ g ii o Pro 02 C ^1 §1 n •E-i I o Ad O OOO SOOO OOO : c?o"o o oooo l-HOlrHrH ooooooooo OOOOQOOOO Hj lOOOOOOOOO ooooooooo ooooooooo . <=l.o o =>,o o^o O^O^ ■ OOO o'er o^o'co" ooo-oooooo oooo gooo OOO oooo ooo^ oooo o o o.o o ooooo 000C50 -| cotyTo"© o oooo o ooooo : o o"o'o"o" ■o oooo ■^00 »oO lo oooooooooo OO00C300000 a o o oooooooo fiS-^v o ^«m -^lOeOt^oOOi 158 SWITZERLAND. 1=1 PI IS3 c3 ML) o '^ 5-1 CO ^ d -s g g q aJ ^ g^l ,£1 .a r/i n-l >»q CO 10 t>. 00 oo OOOtOOU oeioo^r-* M S*° Sri "='-'«="»«=> fflO OOOCoS OfflSSr-( cfl '°-n^"' «• CO ■* U3Q0 ocow r-! .cac*m « rH »D 01 >o ■* CO of % Oi3l>.W M ^001 -rHrHrHCO •^ "O « p-<"w" rH* cn «o CI U3 ;S^?5 a '=»'*»>-«='"==' 00 pOOW3-tc000rHt-U3-*O xa ^,^.4SS?3SS/*S g g8S -|gS^« ^SSSSS CO ^ SSSS""^ 0* cf r-TsD woTed" co-^'oo «o OlrHO "*OOCO i-H W D» lOSO 1—1 .■ «l r-1 rH" «" ^ eigioeooia Mu3K u» t-so ^ ■>*" oo c* c* rH ^ os t^ 10 ec rn ^ EiS;giS"==^^»s s S5 -^^ sggs'^^ s^S^^s O* (SrHcT rn" woo" rH of CO U3 c £ 13,135 4,793 9,040 796 98 163 1,C68 1,618 17 876 8,963 1,640 4,000 6,680 1,600 3,800 60 186 6 84 1,131 3.177 3,096 333 6,749 CO S 00 01 la US d r-t Ct t-i 00 c* ^^^ CO r-t CA ■*■ OO r1 jocsr^oaeoeotnoMM ep ^0 c-e* oooctdt-csrH ■^o> eo O- g g n-co. 1 C»aDOinOQcooxcO OOOuB^Kcooo^uaooOU cM^oOiam ^la Tit ■*}! 00 ^oaopo Tj>r-i>— (Oco r-ia6o_eic»ooo*Tjt «9 01 -^ ■*o»eD ■* r-. tji 00 cc 0* _ «« COiO 00 rH r-T ^ CI = OO'cO lo" rH"0 CI OS g § ISK" '^ '^ ta ci «l -H C4 ■* QO t- !0 -* rH in ^ CI r-< «0 O r- / ua CO « 0> 0> »» •+ W «a t~'0 M w -51 « c? u; 10 «s « CO t- cjr-to «3^t-0«acico 3 •*_&-. ^_^o^ t- rH ; 00 tr^"-^ "-• OiCl o_ ^ C» 0" ■ 04 » rH to ^ o» «> rH C«OOC4^^>eD coo CS OOOOrHOS ^oaooaooo CS at irairtriOi ClOQt-'O CSOei-,. Cl«'*COi-IO •« CjOo'r-r f-T Oo'sDCft r-ToTrH « '^ -* 10 CCOrH rH S rH Ol COO CO CO rH » ■*" CO . M OS CO T? 00 t- 00 CO rH t- CO CI r- O C> O CO r-i t- i-H O --< O rH in 00 SO >ei OS rH <— • t~ CO WS c^ 1^1 CS r-i r— • t- CO lO Ol CO a> ::3 ooiff^ b : -.cDnH r-i-i oo CO c s-s ■ -s of a* .ssl 03 OOOOOWOOOO 00 00 = 00 00000 "^ r-i r-f~i r-« rH e^j i>cooiOTi<«3rHciQoco ei QO 000 loOeoo cagcsco IS<5 '"' '"' "^ ■^ ^^^ '"' '^'~' ^ ::::::::::" :i : i*^ : fl ::::::::: : t' 1 1'!': 1 1 : l| : : M : : :f :i3 : i" != : ; : M ■'3 ; : i 1 = J-::::=';!:=-^J:l = .:|l"::: UieiJ or not mixed with woul or flax, unblea 1, also wadditag ire threads wise cotton and linen without admixture of ot , machine spun iply seethed and soaked yarns icMnga, and drills and drills, bleached, dyed, stamped, printei &c., webbings, laces, tricots, also mixed witl (iyed or hleached, crape silk ("floretscide"), hosiery; cloths, hlondes, and borders, alao mi: d oU-c!oth ,lso oiled or wiixed muslin, picture canvas, &c. nection witlnndia-rubber lis for use in inanuraclovies camel's wool yarns of tbrco or more twists stuffs of nil kinds, unfnlled, fee, when they ar 1 cloths, stuffs, fells, hosiery, fee e fold undyed woollen yarns : ■3 1 Cotton viiin, wdie double thread Tlitto, Uivee or mc Cotton stuffs, like llatw lliixcn yarns. Ditto, hand spun Bleached, also sin Linen thioad Grey packing clot Sailcloth... '. Kaw linens, raw t Linens, tickings, prepiu'cd Tapes, cambrics, stances Thread lace Untwisted silks, cotton yarns Silken stuffs and Half silken stuffs Coarse unstnmpe AH other kinds, a All tissues in con India-rubber clot White sheep's or Stamped woollen I'ullea unstampei Carpets ... Single and doubl a'2 .2 S SWITZERLAND. 159 09 i i u •a a^ GO O i u S o Pi -(J ^ 5 S (D ^ ^^ P E-l . § o OO CO-* "# OlOOO OOCDOOIOSIO ^32 o CM C* ocDo* CO (— < o» CD lo a> coco ^ l>; r-lCS 0»COCO inMW r-< efi of-*" (0" \a rHOs" o ^ >-* l-H 00 OlO 8 OO o»o ^ 'Sw ©t taOi^ rH e*3 a g" S' ia CD WJO 00 ___. o §1 0*0100 OOOl '^O'ACO O) ss ^ o s ^S?§ m ■*"« t"^ % t-^ i-H OOQOCO CO Ot CD ■>* 00 Ol 4: into to CO o*ir- CQC^ CD ot o» oa 1— 1 e» lO C- o do o^ CO : l-tC* U3 S tC of so" i-T "*" • CO «o r-l «Cl ^ CJ o o 1>OOCO OlOOO d-^lfiOOOO o ■* »«oco OMOO COt>«aO-HCD OOQC vt cc of ^ • coco l-H ■** t^ iH oo t-- c^ us «J ■<*< s «, COC» t- o 03 0&C4 g|?. "|S|SS 00 c- (M CO i-H CD * «Dt- CO CO rH s s '"'' ^' « &" CO inc« o ~o Q o COOICD Oinoo COCOCTCOt- eoc; CO «SO) ococ* coeot- so »«co_ OliH rH0*»O ^^HOO-* CO « ■*"cq' 00 CO '^''of • CD r-H s ^ o * CO OS i ineo o Ol CO NrHCa t>-C001 ^OaCOr-< CO : 13 :■ :'E A : : : u : : : : : : ^ i s 5 ■§ .= u ^ 2 w ts : i.i 1 - i f § 1 ' o 1 1 S3 fl s 1% i si qj • a s = 1: -£] : 8 • is S : m in aal 1! ill 1. 1 II- ^ ■fig w> ■ 1 S = ^-■a = = = ^o >- Pi : * p. S S •i o a 1 iiitmi oo o 5 H -a 5 g s 1 8 & S a a i " o S ' S'3 s s o s: s S o g a I -2*^::a S C '" « 9 •? .3 P' t-+3« So » ■§■>- _ 160 SWITZERLAND. 1 « o :r o o ci f-H -* «i -1 — 1 ei ci 1 5 's"-" g" s 1870. ■* o ooiotnoiost-ooioi-'j « o oot>ia^^Tf<-4iotc3ao<— 1 M3 Cl lOcij-HMSOTrtOOaQO OS COM Ol 1 M £t '"^ !2 s s :5 =s :S <=* ss -^ <=> •" o o* . i 00 oooooaocsotCQtcoio of i _; -^ CCt-COOtlOOSOlfMOQDtMUS i CO ft O O OOlSia t*r-C010 01C<10 CO s ' m Oi >-' Ot r-t O CO I— < C» 00 OO 0> O = S S :SE:""S3 SS"g 00 s i « Cl Cf cfi-? •Oofr-^OCl' SO ffi" ^ OO o t^i-Hfccsooccoscsr-ieo U3 g ■di- ce OO OOOOOCTO-^-SC'WOIW o ocooo^wbOoo -f t-oowa t- o oi* s J5 lO Tfi CQOD4 OtOiO-ftegi— 1^ i Estimated Value per Quintal. ^ O OOC 0000(000000 -,, (M QOC i3O0>0»0»«0S00C> T °ii 1-1 5«OCO rH f-1 1-< lO «3 'S'CCrH Bleached and dyed linens, &c., bleached and dyed tickings, drills, cambrics and lineu Tapes, borders, fringes, gauze, 8cc., spun, and other materials combined with metallic tlirouds Ihreadlace Silk and crape stuffs, also mixed with metallic thread ... Silk and crape stuffs, mixed with cotton Coarse unstamped oilcloth for pBckias; ,„ All other kinds of oilcloth, oiled muslin, &c "Worsted yarn, single, dyed or undyed ... Worsted yarn, double, dyed, three or more twists Worsted embroideries, lacea, tulles Stamped woollen stuffs of all kinds Unstamped, unfulled woollen stuffs, also haberdashery . Carpets Unstamped, fulled cloths, felts and stuffs 3 SWITZERLAND. 161 O CO CO o Pi o i Pi ei-i O O -(-= a: o as M (3D 03- iH d !2. tfica^tfi tf, fs OMOCDCDiaOoOOOrMOO O O «p 1 lO anc3. 870,491 9.931 10,69: 469,661 363,881 103,181 114,341 26,37 102,83 16,89 6,22 12,65 133,98 16,86 8,00 38,38 144,00 14,62 69,76 ,246,96 157,48 631,08 r2 3 *rtg' i &g r. c s *"* rH ttoco-* o? 00 »oe-co«D©ioso» eo o"3 t^oio tJ'^'S •-^ S gills 1 S 8SS'°SIS^S'»g8SS gs.s . ■* . ** i ^« dilii ill 111113 iliiisil S 1 r-l i -0% 1 3" '"' ^ssgg s s g ssgssa ggss'"gsjg o> to .5 00 6f«3.*« i* c5 lo « Eiaio^ U30SCD0S t-o*o , oa 1 ag ••SKnaoeo ^ o o«0 knc«o«OOQC»ooDOu30co«o o CD '^ to Ol 00 t^ U9 137, 8, 8, 397, 934, 61, 64,6 74, 107, 8, 36, 164, 80, 10, 83, 163, 22, 309, 2 103 2' leo: 6, : ^ : eftg s i «g S- s" ■"^ .a>CCr—eO « US oo SDr-(t>00C0 0>Oa»«OO t-rHC^r-iC4C4 ^ c* CT t~ bD-HrHiOrH tH \a o oo eflia g oo OD 5" !>; Mgssg s s s ssisss'-'§5"S[ J: s" m rH rH 00 O to o ojt- g| Sg =» S '^' ^"^" ^~ "=" i "1 OOOOO O O 00«DOe3eOOeOOOOOOOeDOOO o o o «0-§S&'» 3 S gg&g^&gggggSSSSSgS *^ i-t r-i « CTrHrl r-( rH GlOi.f-1 « III : i = :^ i ^ :a ;•: i : :::::•: i:::: i0^ C0'#0 ^w ^ fl 00 ■*" r-! :l>rH • ■* 04 ; •* :•* OCOO cm etoio WCO i-IOlO Tf< cCrHi-1 -O "*CQC« v> oo«caooo»oe«cr>o-!S ctoct CO looat-iaost-OiocscitO ■— iioko OS o> l> -^ r— _t-j>e eo e» CO W i-<^ C*,** ^ oa - ■v at **^ t-l-HOlCO r-t :« CO ^e* 00 CO o CO -»'* .MO c^ A ■* O 3TflcOOaoOOC-'T'— '« 4 Olr-lr-' r-Hi-t GlOtt-t CO :^ :.S : n 3 " s s 2 ^ o "K " o » ^ V !S S '5 " : ^ fc S H (0 (8 " fc, SiJ Q.«"S • Sig 5 a ncoooaoi CO OOOOOOOO o ■3 iy»t^; S 5 3 :° d U3 09B9 ^V «S t- -* Ol 3,'s> ua «o IS CO 00 to ■<* CM 00 »0 K O •s 2iC "So .Q ?„=■ « wo ■* o o .OOrH tHC4 C« T* g Cl^ 0>rH 03 O 0» jatco .o»OKO O^ t- C» O^CO < ^-aa'gS'S.g'S ~ " " «■= .-2 •! .oS5S§S-gS'< " -" "> aa 00 Da s s ^ . O Oh ;^ o g 3 g : g^==«! -S s = > a n S J 58 O * a.Aja ED " ? "i ^V '" S Sj o I. C c P I ( o o o 3 :-S S « ei-^ Oi^ p(® 3 S-'s &^ £■■- «jH feo« bog bDw 2^ ^ ^ M 2 164 SWITZERLAND. OtC4ka QrHp-i «tOK)o wS - ■» ^^ *^ ^1 »j- -^^ r-^ t^pj Tj't jj -jj ij^ I*'* 1,^ [id'>:.c^« I-* o c-^QO c4 CI lo (T- e* c* «o ^S ^ :* »C-00 0*.-<0*i-'* .en 00 to •«' c*^ ^2 g-^ OaoDOi-IOio r-'rHi-( ft rHr-f'^od' O <0 rH^O* CD O C4 M^ .9H S:Sfe!Zic>5S'='<="20oo0» {300 COO^OTCOO»i-HrHrH u3-<#oootooaoeo • OS ■^uf lo u3 OT'eo due- ■^ la n t«ao t^ o> t^O -^ 00 oooc^eocoosoiot^cc^ « t^ i-H OD r-i^-^« ec^-* t- G* •i-T ^os o «or-7i-«"oriA'r-ror :o>Qc^rHaoc4 03aDO>^o "* "^°^*° OS 0» i-H I— 1 1— I i-r©ri-r"*ad* ■ oscb CO oomcooDcoiaoco la o« n l:>'4l CO OO C4 la 10 I— I t)< Dl cs -^ t~ ^ 0^<» "* OOOO^OODf-J^rHW^-* og^ C0 e^ • l-T .r-4 .t^«flo"rHi-!rCO-*r-7 CO l-T I-l : : :t-t-wr-ic6 eooo i-( OlUS 'Sf-IOOSCOO t~COl5- co ^ ot oa CO t>> -^ CO o> -^ -^ ob ^Tfl 1>^-*0>0»^»-<_CO^»OIOCC« pe^ .voco t^efcoeccotCoreoo rao ; r-l O Q t- Tf CO rH rH rH i-H 1-1 CODQuaOCOOsOOS CO la OS i-i-ao o« co ■* t^i— I 0> C4 rH CO OS r-l .OrODCOrHcT t^Oa" ._ -,— - - _.- - - -_- eo S ■^lOCOOSOOi-HOs'QDCOofofcfGf .i-T 3iO "^OCOt^oQ OC»C4t».OOOM : 5 rH O »0 ■^O M -^ i-H r-l i-l CO CO 0« CO -i}! O CO t~ O 01 00 CO CD Ot-apOOSCOQoO O 0» rH I-l 00 CO OS ^ rH C* rH ^ -* ■« OS -if C» 010S-«i-400r-ICOC«C029IOC«->#U »,",.OS i-t i-< Ir-OS r-l-«C rH OS 0» M t- nososcft'^co'^io ec-*co»oo 00 c* ; OOD cT r-T CO od" 5 s- r-(iOC4>OI> ot>- uMcouawaoOr-itoooo^3Pt~aoooo»u3£^aonnAcoioMa ts, rH&» rHrHrHrHC* "^ ' O ' g ' '^ O O (B ■ft =S '£3 •3 . o_ « a K a> :|||||fS-: : K & P BO « F -g?°o ; : : wa a) ^ ns ffl « M ■asS •3 -S -3 -3 -.3 -3 I I s I I 1 ;s ;s IS ;» :s =8 ^ ^ 5 ^ ja 3 o o o o "S o :=5 ;=3 :i :=3 ==3 :? igS :S :• ■= ° ■S'gS „3 * = O.S SWITZERLAND. 165 r^ ; »o CO CO eo_ « £» r-; oc O O0»"ode00'-*"of COCO'qO Ooa rrl CO :;5 00 lO CO ec OS tr- O CO r- (r-l t3rH . rH CO OOia CDOSO CO 00 CO ■*\o-^iausov>0> ft 3- aoo%-^«sao - - - >0-*OOOt-?0oo03Tfi>amotoiiao>oo o »o t^osoico ooio i^'w eooi" ■tf -^ SCO i-H l-H OS G« 00 « I— I r-( [3« i-IC*r-10»»0 OCO iO .«0^>0 . lO .F— <>^ DO ■* tPW^i-IO ■* C>i-li-J,tN OO 2 CO* , c« lo CO t^tCo oa aacsTco eo Stn ! 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Tiasuea of hemp or Aax, alao mi bleached, or mixed with while, ni Tisanea of hemp or flux, alao mi.xed Tissues of hemp or flax, also mix- colours Tissues of hemp or flax, also mixed Tissues of hemp or flax, also mixed with cotton, thread, or wool Hosiery, raw or bleached Ditto, dyed Ditto, woven in colours or stamped Lace (fringes), raw or bleached ... Ditto, dyed Ditto, woven in colours Borders and ribbons Lacea ... Moor carpeta Wearing apparel, whether raw or bl 6 tihi-eads to'5 millimetres Wearing apparel, whether raw or bl 9 threads to 5 millimetres Wealing apparel, whether raw or previous headings Wearing apparel, dyed Ditto, woven in colours all •3 1 d s o O s a so ^§ O 03 J -a 170 SWITZERLAND. g03 O a>ot *eo 00 ,;i« CO I 03 00-* • to m 3 00-* «". ED IS & s ^ U3 '^' o' 00»(N l>- ;s eo i-ICOSO ao«oo 00 t- ■ coco 0(»e4 MBfHI— I OCC A oot-o o oso U3 00 :o raooeo uO ofrH CO • ■« COUS "^ rH J ^ CO OS P3 CD CO 1— lOOOS i-t CM CDOD i— t os" c5 i CO ^ 'rf' MC^rH in ooua CO rH lO s WcoSoa ^ 2 ,^"^-04 of oT sgSSS t-- ■* ^ A c© osaioeo « Ot^'^g ""gS'SS m cam us 2" ■« SSSo o 00 ,iooi>«o g" tF «" rn" CO »OQt-i-l eo U3^ t})0 S r^ScOO "# q) CO eo'c oa t-Ocoe« o ?-ros « 00 e^" • cf 00 . osxoeoco C0 0»030 00 w^^-l",i>i -* -^ ?2 2 2 S of ti «a- « oT '«i>.»on» t- ODgOC* o 00 «efo"ao"^'' «a a>«u3t« U3 «C- CD *=R. rH- c» ea CD /ssSI o CO o e- ^ ■^ of oo" rHOat^St o> (»-*t*C* ot CO fiaS"c«a3«" c- mgcoua U3 n rH CO r-t .™a3«c4 jiO»o^C«->o ^JCQ-WTlsrcO- i^(Hi— luaao KmscoS rHU3 of oa ISIS 1 eft laaffcAit^ o uaiooaua CO C^OO CO eo l-T cq" i *"* SSSfe S S" "agSSS ^ rt-O of Oa S - • •— ' • (4 : :^ : -S 1 & ! fl a. ^■|?u ffiiiSiS^ 1 atoasb!> ^ » efltS-ws-S-o" OD- SEt'^^S ES GO "^ SSSS g »-l'*«« t- i^gsss s '^'eiaoooeo 00 ■^ to oomoi ta r"kOi-H|— 1 00 eft CO CO •«S-SSgg USU3 rH i I—" l-HMt-Oa COC^iOCO O 1^ 00 CO f-t CO_^ 1 e* -^ lO ■^SCOC»r-« O »0f-l0»0 ea Oicat-O 00 ^^-u^^Vi rM GDfSCQ^ c* r^ o» oo eaeoenei o» Ooooot- Oi «'°«'°'^- ■* ^rHnHt-0» H^g^gS ' ^•' US cocooao CO eoaDO>i-i « ei-*rHO » "*gi"3 cf r-H ncooot? rHusCOi-^ S5 ^t>QOCDC-; "^ust-uar-i s 03 ■*" ra CO gsss g CO a> CD 40 •«ssg§ & CDiO OO CD & 5 i-< CDOO'*-?* -^ oacoiooa jaoscscog O* ^o,'*« -*" rH ccT rHM 00 ssss « tUefuaoOi-H ^t^>DO_0D ^1>:«CD10" 2 ■*oo»o« » '^r ,^ to . ^yj ■ -s • s es J|s-3 i§ii SWITZERLAND. 173 O CD CO H o •I a •a o i3Q 00 6 (2i s 1-1 411 1 S ill! " 00 aO OOioO 1 SoSS ||iS to g CO i III ua " I-H 2 at § ■« 111 3 1 a 03 OS & s OlCnr-4 BBS r-t C4 i ' -1% i rH illl ■ [SCOrHOS 1 > ssi 1 ife'g's £ >ft S 00 00 Cl CO « s s sss 0»t-0 1 1-^ siiS 1 : : : ill III : 5 -8 ■S 3 i§ II 53^3 3 . Il - CO &5 "S. a 174 SWITZERLAND. (No. 19.) — Manupactobies in the Canton of Zurich on the 1st of December, 1870. Description. Number of Factories. Motive Power. Number of Hands. Number ot Spindles. Number of Water. Steam. Men. Women. Looms. Cottou, spinning and weaving... Silk and floss silk spinning, winding and weaving Mechanical wool spinning and weaving Calico prinling Silk dyeing Red dyeing Dyeing Finishing (" appretnr ") . Embroidering Carding (" Kardenfabrikation") 126 47 8 7 9 2 5 3 3 4 H. power 4,199 643 96 5 1 38 IS "36 16 H. power 635 140 38 51 346 32 68 11 "'s 4,306 815 258 430 768 107 115 41 8 71 5,230 3,399 190 416 13 6 46 20 38 19 660,136 4,162 6,365 744 44 "174 Total 213 4,926 6,1 1,194 19 6,919 9,347 V- ^ ' 16,266 664,288 7,237 Note. — ^In 1865 the number of spindles in the cotton Bpinning mills was 607,083, against 660,136 in the above Ketum. Within the last two years a further considerable increase has taken place. (No. 20.) — Manufactories in the Canton of Glaris in 1872. Description. Motive Power. Number of Hands. Number of Machines. Number of Spindles. Number • f Water. Steam. Looms. Cotton spinning and weaving mills Printing and dyeing factories Wool weaving mills Weaving of coloured stuffs mills ... Silk weaving and spinning mills ... H. power. 3,848 766 200 50 211 H. power. 136 165 .S,686 4,787 100 160 150 64 is 359,400 3',800 3,422 "ioo 163 Total 4,076 4.3 290 65 8,863 ■ 77 363,200 3,684 Note. — In 1864 the number of apiudles in the cotton mills was 200,000, against 259,000 in the above Betnra. (No. 21.) — The Swiss Cotton Industry. Eng. lbs. Average quantity of raw cotton* and yams annually consumed since 1860 .. .. .. .. 26,975,641 Raw cottonf consumed in 1871 .. .. .. 52,895,922 Estimated number of spindlesj in 1872, between 2,200,000 and 2,500,000. * The consumption of raw cotton and yarns in 1871 amounted to 42,759,991 lbs. English. f The consumption of raw cotton is so much greater than that of raw cotton and yams, owing to the exports of the latter outbalancing the imports. See Table No. 3. X The above statement has been made on most competent authority. The average consumption per spindle of cotton is smaller in Switzerland than elsewhere, the manufacture of the finer sorts of yarn being most remunerative on account of the heavy freights on the raw material. SWITZERLAND. 175 Description of cotton generally used — 1st. American Middling : 2ndly. Egyptian and Sural. Mixtures : Surat and Low Middling ; Egyptian and Good Middling. Duty, 6 fr. = 4». 9id. per 1,000 kilog. Freight on raw cotton, in parcels of at least 5,000 kilog., per 1,000 kilog.- Liverpool to Bale — From the vessel and by direct steamer, via Antwerp — American East Indian , . If 7,500 kilog. on one truck From railway station, via Goole and Ghent- American East Indian . . If 7,500 kilog. on one truck From railway station, vik Harwich and Antwerp — American .... East Indian . . If 7,500 kilog. on one truck All expenses included, except duty, 6 fr.=4«. 9id., marine insurance, necessary repairs, postage, and stamps. Freight on cotton goods, per 1,000 kilog. — Manchester to Bale — By quick train By goods train Conditions as before. 12/. on tulles, &c. Fr. c. 78 50 = 65 50 61 75 £ «. = 32 2 12 2 9 d. 94 a 41 75 50 68 50 65 3 2 14 2 12 41 9i 78 50 75 72 3 2 3 2 17 9i 7 Fr. c. £ «. d. 250 = 10 118 4 14 i'. Duty varies from 40fr. = U. 12». on raw yams, to 300 fr.= Fr. Fr. 8. d. s. d. 25 to = = 20 to 28 30 22 4f 24 33 35 26 4i 28 33 35 26 4f 28 Cost of coal per 1,000 kilog. in principal industrial centres — Aarau Zurich Glaris Coire. . The average price is about 30 fr. = 24». Average consumption of coal per horse-power per hour, 2 kilog. Average consumption of coal per horse-power per day (12 hours), 24 kilog. Average consumption of coal per horse-power per year ^300 days), 7,200 kilog. Average cost of coal per horse-power per hour, 6 c.. = Oi-^^d. Average cost of coal per horse-power per day (12 hours), 72 c. = 6|-^yrf. Average cost of coal per horse-power per year (300 days), 216 fr. = 8/. 12». Sid. WAGES IN DIFFERENT CANTONS. Canton of St. Gall, 1873. Number of working hours per day, average 12. Mechanical embroidery — Embroiderers (men) skilled Threaders (?), "fadlerin" women. . After-embroiderers (?), '*Nach- stickerin " women .. .. Piece work. ?r. c. Fr! . c. «. d. s. d. 4 50 to 7 = 3 7 to 5 7 2 2 50 1 7 2 2 10 2 30 18 1 10 Th; mechanical embroidery is in a most flourishing condition, and no less than 15,256 workmen and workwomen, with close upon 9,000 machines, are engaged in this branch of industry at exceptionally high wages. 176 SWITZERLAND, Canton of Thubgovib, 1869. Foremen designers, &c., per day Lowest rate of wages Highest „ Apprentices Spinning mills — Lowest rate of wages Highest Arerage „ DyerieSj Adrianople red — Lowest rate of wages Highest „ Average „ Fr. 0. Fr. c. ». d. i. d. b OtoO = 4 OtoO 60 3 50 5} 2 9i 1 40 4 SO 1 li 3 7 50 U 4| 60 75 5f 7 1 70 3 1 4i 2 4f 1 20 1 60 Hi, 1 3J 60 1 70 5i 1 4J 20 2 50 17 20 1 50 2 1 2i 17 Canton of Glaris, 1869. Real average of wages per day. Cotton factories — Spinners Carders Piecers Weavers Spoolers Reelers and winders Dressers Printers, men ,, women Kngravers . . Assistants, men ,, women As far as could be ascertained from inquiries made on the spot the above rates of wages have remained unaltered to 990,000 196,000 1 2 9 1,126,50* 1855 . \ !9 1,610 476,000 230,000 1 2 8 539,470 1856 . 1 3 2,2C0 1,175,000 322,000 1 3 4 1,370,800 1857 . f 4 2,788 806,000 406,000 1 4 9 997,472 1858 . i 2 3,712 532,000 400,400 1 6 691,600 1859 . , • ■ • 392,000 313,600 1 7 2 532,460 1860 . , • ■ • 425,000 330,500 1 10 6 648,325 1861 . s 8 4,185 658,000 518,000 1 5 4 833,460 1862 . g 4.345 428,000 361,500 1 2 7 483,280 1863 . . . 616,000 399,600 1 11 2 951,440 1864 . ■ ■ • 434,000 326,424 1 13 716,100 1865 . • . . 280,000 280,000 1 12 448,000 1866 . . 336,000 308,000 1 14 4 576,800 1867 . 4 • • 364,000 336,000 1 14 61«,300 1868 . • • • 308,000 290,000 2 2 2 649,370 1869 . • 288,000 268,000 1 15 6 511,200 1870 . ■ • • 310,000 294,000 1 11 480,500 1871 • • ■ ■ 337,000 311,000 1 14 572,900 1872 . • 300,000 •• 1 15 '•• Of tlie labour employed in factory work 96 per cent, is female. In every 100 factory operatives, tlie propor- tion of male and female, adult and non-adult, workers, is as follows : — Female adults — Reelers or winders . . . . . . 65 Sorters . . . . . . . . 10 Carders . . . . . . . . 4 Twisters . . . . . . . . 2 Forewomen . . . . . . . . 3 Female non-adults — Beaters . . . . . . . . 10 Apprentices . . . . . . . . 2 Male adults — Foremen, engine-drivers, packers, &c. . . 4 Total 100 It tlius appears that for every 100 reels employing 100 winders or reelers, 54 auxiliary hands are required, or, ia tlie aggregate, 154 hands to every 100 reels. At the present time, of the 90 factories, are working only 75 employing 3,520 reels, affording employment to 5,415 hands, of which — TUBKEY. 187 84 per cent., or 4,649 are adult females ; 12 ,, 449 are non-adult females ; and 4 „ 217 are adult males. Total .. 5,415 Tlie rate of wages of tlie reelers is the standard for regulating tlie pay of the other classes of operatives. In the early days of factory labour, between 1846 and 1850, reelers were paid from 3 to 4 prs. {5^d. to Ijd.) per diem. By the year 1857 their wages had advanced to 10 prs. (Is. 6Jd.) During the last fourteen years their earnings have fluctuated between 6 and 8 prs. {lid. and Is. 2^d.) The operatives, however, do not receive an uniform rate of wages at all times. A sliding scale regulates the amount in proportion to the number of hours which form a working day, whose duration, being reckoned from sunrisfe to sunset, varies with the seasons. The present scale is 8 prs. in summer, 6 prs. in spring and autumn, and 4 prs. in winter, for- reelers, whose average earnings are thus about 6 prs. (lid.) a-day. A statement which succeeds sets forth the average rates of wages that are being received just now by the different classes of factory workers, and the approximate aggregate amount of their daUy earnings. No. Per diem. s. d. £ s. d. Heelers . . 3,520 11 161 6 8 Sorters 641 71 16 18 1 Carders . . 217 11 9 18 11 IVisters . . 108 11 4 19 Forewomen 163 1 3 10 3 9 Beaters . . 541 71 16 18 1 Apprentices 108 3 1 7 Foremen engine-drivers, packers, &c. . . 217 1 10 19 17 10 Aegres^te daily earnings 241 9 4 The ordinary number of working days forming a year, allowance being made for the numerous holidays observed by the working classes, is 260. Owing, however, to the failures of crops since 1858, the supply of the raw material falling short of the demand,' the factories, are working short time or not more than 200 days in the year. The annual amount of wages, paid to factory^ hands then, is, in the aggregate, about 48^300/. 188 TURKEY. The natural day constitutes tlie working day. Inter- vals, amounting collectively to an hour and a half, being allowed for meals and rest, the hours of daily employ- ment vary from 7^ to 13^ according to the season. The average on the year is therefore 10^ hours, and when factories are going fuM time it is equivalent to 52| hours' labour a week ; but under the short time conditions of late years it only amounts to 42 hours a week. This is by no means excessive toil, but the system. has the very great disadvantage of putting a very unequal strain on the workers' physical powers. The long and hot summer day's labour of 13^ hours' duration is most trying even to adults, and to non-adults it is most injurious. European silk masters have made attempts to equalize the hours of labour throughout the year by reducing the hours in sunamer, in the elpectation that by thus husbanding the workers' strength and concentrating its energies, the same labour results would be obtained in the shorter as in the longer hours. The expectation has, however, proved utterly fallacious, and no one knowing the character of the oriental worker wUl wonder at it. About 95 per cent, of the factory hands belong to the Armenian and Greek races. A few Turkish women are found amongst them, but the authorities endeavour to discourage and prevent the employment of Turkish women in factories. Were there a sufficient supply of the raw material to enable the whole of the 90 factories with their 4,345 reels to work full time, instead of 393,000 lbs. of reeled silk, the district factory power is equal to the production Of at least 700,000 lbs., worth at this day 1,200,000Z. to 1,250,000Z. sterling ; and by overtime working, 25 per cent, might be added to that quantity. Any estimate, however, founded on past or present results affi)rds but a very faint idea of the capabilities possessed by the country for the production of silk. Sericulture is susceptible of almost limitless extension, were it not for the discouragement it meets in the ravages of a disease for which neither experience nor science has yet found a remedy. The whole of the province, 30,000 square miles in extent, is favourable to the growth of the mulberry and to the rearing of the silk- worm. In the third or fourth year of planting the shoot, the tree is sufficiently developed to allow of its being TURKEY. 189 stripped of its leafy produce without harm to its further growth. Only in very dry situations is the mulberry short-lived, and even then replanting is needed only every twenty years. It would be an easy matter, then, in the course of a very few years to form plantations equal to the requirements of almost any imaginable demand. Half the present prices would be amply remunerative to the sUk cultivator. According to present appearances, the production of sUk in this district must remain stationary if it do not further decline in importance. Indeed, the returns of production almost lead to the apprehension that the industry in the course of not many distant years will be extinct; the successive yields of the raw m.aterial during late years evincing a slow but steady decline in pro- duction. (Signed) J. MALING. Brussa, October 5, 1872. Inclosure 3. Fabriques a vapeur e'chauffees en hois dans le Vilayet d'Andrinople. Ocques. A Andrinople 3 filatures a soies Slant par annee soies fines . . . . . . . . . . 5,500 A Eski Zaara 1 „ „ ., . . 1,500 Soies fines en tout . . . . . . 7,000 Dans ces fabriques travaiUent annuellement 300 filleuses, 13 heures par jour pendant I'et^ et 10 heures au reste de I'annee, etant payees a raison de 3 a 4^ pias. par jour. Dans ce Vilayet il n'y a pas d'autres fabriques de quelque importance si non celle de SHimia aux draps appartenant au Gouvemement et une a Philippopolis egalement en draps. grossiferes de propriete priv^e. PkISB DBS JOURNBES BBS DIVERS OuVRIBRS. Prs. ' Magons ... . . . . . . 15 a 18 Ouvriers au cliemin de fer . . . . ^10 Laborateurs de terre . . . . . . 6 il 8 ,, avec une attelage de 2 besefs . 20 25 Heures de travail, 12 pendant I'ete, 10 au reste de I'annee. Livre sterling =114 piastres. 190 Wurtemberg. Mr. Eden to Earl Granville. (Extract.) ^ Stuttgardt, January 13, 1873. In conformity with tlie instructions contained in your Lordship's Circular despatch to Mr. Scott, of July 20, 1872, I have the honour to inclose herewith a Report which I have drawn up on the state of the manufacture of textile fabrics in Wurtemberg. Inclosure in No. 1. Report hy Mr.. Eden. Introductory. ALTHOUGH boastiug scvcral ancient and reputed industries, Wurtemberg was until recently an essentially agricultural country. Previous to 1860 it was only slowly and half reluc- tantly that the surplus capital and energies of the land were won over to the new field of enterprise, while the guilds of the middle ages continued to hamper commer- cial transactions for twelve years longer, their final abolition having been delayed as late as 1862. The breaking down of Customs barriers and the extension of the area of enterprise, first by the Treaties with Bavaria and Hesse in 1828, and finally by the extension of the Zollverein to South Germany in 1888 ; the construction of railways ; the good harvests between 1857 and 1862, all contributed to the industrial develop- ment of the country. It was not, however, till the period following 1860 that these good results became fully apparent. Times of hard trial and crisis have come and gone since then, and there are stiU dark clouds ahead ; but there is nothing to show that, under mode- rately favourable conditions, the textile industry of WTJETEMBERG. 191 Wurtemberg may not still be considerably extended before approaching tbe limits of its expansive capacity, wbile the entrance into the German Confederation and into the stimulating atmosphere of closer and more equal competition bids fair to give a new impulse to its development. The freedom of residence and trade now assured to all Germans throughout the boundaries of the Empire, the subordination to one Central Federal authority of common matters of commercial legislation, and the corresponding adoption at the commencement of the current year of the North German Industrial Code of 1869, " Gewerbe-ordnung " are among the more immediate consequences of this union. If the statistics of the last few years do not show a rate of increase equal to the early vigour, in all branches of manufacturing industry in this country, they still testify most emphatically, to its continued and healthy development. Whether the clouds above aUuded to will suffice to blight this promising growth, is a hard question and an anxious one ; but that its vitality wiU be put to a severe test is indubitable. The newly acquired provinces of Gexmany possess some 1,700,000 spindles in the cotton manufacture alone, against 3,000,000 within the entire limits of the ZoUverein.,* and the whole brunt of this tremendous competition will be felt after the termination of the provisional period on the 1st January, 1873. Textile Industry in general. In 1858, the total number of cotton spindles in Wurtemberg was 111,086 ; of wool spinning ditto, 42,757 ; and in the flax and hemp spinning industry, 5,048. The total number of looms of all kinds amounted at the same time to 38,995, producing about 30,198,000 florins worth of material and distributed as foUows : — Looms. No. of Ells produced. Value. Cotton and mixed stuffs Linen Woollen and worsted goods Silk 16,.593 20,410 1,761 231 62,319,000 22,293,000 4,118,000 14,083,000 7,261,000 8,412,000 442,000 Statistics as a basis for comparing and observing progress. * "Economist." 192 WURTEMBEEG. In the following pages, the changes which have since supervened are traced, as far as it has been possible to obtain reliable data, under each separate head of textile industry. Cotton. — Wurtemberg, like other countries, has seen her more ancient manufactures of wool and hnen left behind by the rapid advances of the cotton industry now the first in the country. Spindles. Spinning. In 1830 there were 5,860, or 4 for every 1,000 inhabitants. 1849 „ 33,000, 20 1858 „ 111,068, 62 1860 „ 127,000, 70 1867 „ 275,000, 1868 „ 268,000, It will be observed from the above figures that, while between 1849 and 1860 the number of spindles had increased 385 per cent., the augmentation during the succeeding eight years still continued so great that, by 1868, notwithstanding the cotton crisis, the figure was again nearly doubled. These figures, especially the latter, are very instructive and still more so when we consider the late period , at which the manufacture was fairly started in the country on such a footing as gave it a chance of development. In a compilation by Professor Mahrlen, published in 1861 for the Central Commercial Board, occur the following interesting data for comparing the development of the cotton industry in this and other countries, and it is much to be regretted that there exist iio similar statistics of a later date. In the thirty years between 1830 and 1860 the cotton spinning of this kingdom increased 2,067 per cent. ; in the last eleven years of this period, 385 per cent.; that of Great Britain increased, in the twenty-five years between 1829 and 1856, 300 per cent. ; that of Russia, in the nine years ending 1854, 346 per cent. ; that of Switzerland, in the twenty-three years terminating with 1859, 129 per cent. ; that of Austria, including the Italian provinces, in the sixteen years ending 1857, 76 per cent. ; that of Bavaria, in the thirteen years to 1859, 985 per cent. ; that of Baden, in the saine period, 40 per cent. In the thirty years preceding 1861, Wurt^mberg augmented the number of spindles in this branch of her manufactures twenty-fold ; and in the fifteen years ter- WUBTEMBERG. 193 minating in 1868 the increase was still as nmcli as seven- fold, though the mimher of new factories in this latter interval only amounted to four. A comparison of these later years gives — Factories No. of spindles No. per factory 1852. 16 37,193 2,324 1858. 17 111,086 6,535 1861. 19 170,822 8,990 1868. 20 268,734 13,436 Part of the ahove increase occurred durins' the cotton crisis, Avhich, among other things facilitated the acquire-., ment of machinery by Wui-temberg manufapturers, and enabled lucky individuals here and there to do good business in the troubled Avaters. The position of Wm-temberg with respect to that important element of competitive strength, the number spindles per factory, was, in 1858-59, higher than in Prussia, lower than in Austria, Switzerland, or Bavaria; the smallest factory (in 1858) had 384, the largest (1860), 26,000 spindles, while England already possessed estab- lishments with as many as 150,000 spindles, no small advantage in the universal struggle. Dr. Mahrlen con- siders the manufacture of cotton to be especially sensitive of the advantages of production on a large scale, and the increasing number of spindles per factory, which may be observed ii^the successive averages given above, shows the present tendency of this industry in Wurtemberg to be calculated to insure that country more and more participa- tion in these benefits. This average number of si)iudies per factory is, it will be noticed, actually doubled between 1858 and 1868. Meanwhile, Wurtemberg, while gra.du- ally' obtaining the advantages of greater concentration in the face of modern competition, has as yet been more fortunate than some of her neighbours in avoiding the ruia so common during the period of transition from small to large establishments. Erom 1810, when the first mechanical spinning factory was founded, to 1860, only six small factories failed. More than ten years ago Dr. Mahrlen asserted as his opinion that it was no longer advisable for any one to set up a spinning establishment of less than 10,000 spindles. At that time, the average number in Wurtemberg was [150J 194 WTJRTBMBBBG. Last reports. Amount produced. Number of hands employed. Weaving. Development and increase. below, while now it is above this limit. The official Report of 1869 mentions a small increase in the number of spindles and looms, as well as other improvements ia several places, whil^that of 1872 speaks of the preceding y.ear as one of memorable good fortune in the annal of spinners. As each spindle in the course of a year spins 40 lbs. of yarn independent of waste, the produce of the 268,734 spindles at work ia 1868 must have been about 107,000 centners, worth from 6,000,000 fl. to 7,000,000 fl., or over 500,000^ sterling. This yarn goes to the Zollverein States. The total number of persons employed in producing the above results were 3,350. In the statistics of cotton weaving, the manufacture of mixed stuffs must be understood to be included. These, while forming but a small proportion of the whole, can with difficulty be estimated apart, one loom often serving during the course of the year to work up both pure cotton and mixed yarns. Cotton weaving existed for long in a primitive state in this country, during which time the work was all done by hand, and the trade carried on by small trades- men; as, in the linen manufacture, is even now, to a great extent, the case. Though the webs produced were heavy, coarse, and homely, they sufficed for the require- ments of the country, while the high tariffs on all sides, though they checked exportation, acted equally as barriers to more alluring rivals from without. The first change in this unsophisticated state of things came with the signature of the above-mentioned Bavarian Treaty in 1828, and for five or six years afterwards, abundance of Wurtemberg goods passed the Bavarian frontier. At length came the opening of the gates on a larger scale : Wurtemberg entered the Zollverein. The limited freedom had been beneficial enough to the manufacturers. When, however, in consequence of this last step, the markets of the country were thrown open to enterprising neighbours from far and near, it seemed for a time that their superior advantages and more practical skill would drive the Wurtemberg wares, not only from those staples to which they had but so recently penetrated, but even maintain a keen competition with them at home. But, in truth, such a temporary check to the vitality of the industry was just what was required to insure a WTJIITEMBEB,&. 195 necessary metamorphosis; and, through this, in good time it passed triump)iant to a more vigorous phase of existence. Larger capital was invested, factories con- centrated part of the scattered house-work; shirtings, cattunes, muslins, piques, &c., took the place of the old- fashioned cottonettes and tickens. Between 1830 and 1840 the first mechanical looms were set up in Heiden- heirn, and at length the cotton-weaving of Wurtemherg presented the sound and promising appearance which fi.ts it to take part in the modern commercial arena. Statistics published hy the Royal Statistical Bureau give 19 manufacturers as employers of labour in this field in the year 1829 ; in 1805 about 30 employed some 1,147 weavers on 1,200 looms, almost without exception all working at home. In 1852 there appear* to have been 77 factories with 673 power-looms, and 5,540 hand- looms ; in 1861, 110 factories with 2,251 power-looms, and 3,469 hand-looms, not including a still larger pro- portion of the trade carried on out of the factories.! So late as this latter year, there were single manufacturers employing as many as 600 to 1,000 hands to work for them in their own homes, and the number of hand-looms so employed reached 9,217. In 1867 the niimber of mechanical looms is given as 3,000, and of hand-looms as between 12,000 and 13,000. After tbe period of transition came one of success. The Exhibition of 1851 gave to the Wurtemherg manu- facturers two valuable items of self-knowledge — of that which they could do, and ^ that which they could not do. Watchful eyes, in th& service of the then newly- established (1848) Central Board of Trade and Commerce, studied the English and Irish systems of getting up textile fabrics, both linen and cotton, for the market, noting sound processes and superficial artifices with equal care. English machines, and likewise an Irish expert, were introduced, and State assistance was given for the organization and reorganization of bleaching establishments in Blaubeuren and Heidenheim, Weisse- nau, &c. Already, before the abolition of guilds in 1863, * Though it seems some error has here invaded the statistics. t Nut improbably the figures given in 1852 as the number of factory hand-looms include, by some error, part at least of the looms worked independent of factories, which would account for the lar"-e number as compared to 1861. o 2 196 WUBTBMBBEG. Amount produced. Last reports. Prospects, the trades independent of these associations had won the preponderance through intelligence and technical educa- tion over the guild artizans, and yearly increased in numbers. Technical schools were founded or enlarged. The manufacture of tools and machinery at home increased. In 1858 it was found that the number of self-acting machines and semi-self-actors, was more numerous in this country than in the rival territory of Saxony. Jacquard weaving spread, new tissues were introduced ; and thus, at the beginning of the seventh decade of this century, the value of mixed and cotton goods of various kinds had reached, in round numbers, 14,000,000 fl. 30 or' 40 per cent, of this sum may be taken to represent the cost of yarn or material, and 60 to 70 per cent, for wages, interest, and other costs of manufacture. In the spinning industry these proportions are reversed. It has been shown that between 1861 and 1867 the number of mechanical looms had increased from 2,251 to 3,000, and though no exact statistics of later date are obtainable, there is little doubt but that the augmenta- tion stiU continues. The oflS.cial report published this autumn speaks of a briskness of business in this branch of trade such as has not been known for long, of high calico prices, of empty warehouses, of contract engagements spreading the demand of the future, of two enlargements of Jacquard weaving establishments and of the foundation of one new one, and all this ia spite of rising wages and a dark threatening horizon. The gates of France — thanks to the provisions of the Treaty between that Power and Germany — ^being stUl open to the production of Alsace and Lorraine, these provinces have as yet exercised no distributing influence in Germany, but have even appeared as purchasers in the marts of the latter country, to enable them to meet the demands of their customers. In the trade with such goods as curtains, cambrics, &c., only advantageous results have been experienced from the annexation. Elourishing then, truly, is the condition of the cotton industry in Wurtemberg at the close of the last year as yet elapsed of the period of success, but with all this the times are such as will not admit of abating one jot in energy or vigUance if that period is to be still further century. WXTRTEMBERG. 197 prolonged. There are fierce rivalries soon to be surpassed or eluded, and some modern antagonisms (such as trade unions) drawing near, which, this fortunate country has stiU to encoimter for the first time. The latest standing ground is not yet reached, and the next few years are likely, in more ways than one, to test as much as any that have gone before them, the metal and foundations of this well earned prosperity. , The principal sorts of cotton and mixed goods Principal' produced in Wurtemberg are linings, fustian, printed "° calicos, handkerchiefs, white cotton stuffs, cambrics, shirtings, velvets, satined cloth, stays, &c. Woollen Manufactures. Progress of, during the At the beginning of the century the cloth manufac- ture of "Wurtemberg wa,s, though already of some antiquity, in so low a state that even of the course cloths then used for home consumption, a good portion came in an undyed condition from Saxony and Silesia. The first attempt to manufacture middle and fine cloth was made in 1806 by a factory at Calw, which also introduced the first mechanical spinning machine in the country ; while about this time the supply of the better kinds of raw material was stimulated by the importation of a superior breed of sheep. A Government factory at Ludwigsburg gave another impulse towards the improve- ment of the wares, and for some time "Wurtemberg goods of this class found a market in Baden, Bavaria, Switzer- land, and Italy. Calw cloth merchants had iudeed had dealings with the latter country as early as the seven- teenth century, while the manufacture of worsted stuffs is stUl older. After the peace of Vienna came a period which threatened to prove fatal to this modest but tolerable state of things, and both branches of the woollen industry had to struggle through hard times. The prohibitive system then prevailed throughout Europe ; English cotton goods entered into competition ; the attempts to produce a yarn fitted for such fine stuff's as merinos, thibets, camlets, &c., failed, and the ruin of the trade especially in worsted stuffs, seemed eminent. A factory set up in Heilbronn in 1820 for the production of the necessary fine yarn failed, as did another in Esslingen, 198 WURTEMBEKG. and numbers of master weavers turned from the manu- facture of stuffs with long wool or worsted yarn to that of cloth ; others to that of flannels, &c. But for the woollen industry taken as a whole, this period of prohibitive duties was rather a time of still growth and of transformation than of paralysis. The carded wool or cloth trade may be said to have then truly taken root on a scale of any magnitude, and it continued for some time to prosper, supplying the home market Spinning. without a rival. The introduction of the CokerUl spinning machines into Calw in 1816, was followed by the erection of new establishments in Salach (1818), in Liebenzall (1819), ia Goppingen and Heilbronn (1822), and in Esslingen in 1824!. Wool markets were created for the raw material, wages were low, and wool abundant. Cloth manufactures were accordingly founded in many places during this close period ; but thoxigh the industry maintained itself in existence and even augmented, there was little stimulus to improvement in such an atmosphere, and so the date of the Treaty of Bavaria (1828) arrived without any material ^.melioration having taken place in the quality of the wares produced in Wurtemberg. Notwithstanding this, the next six years proved all that could have been wished. Wages and wool remained low ; new spinning factories sprang up to supply the required yarn ; new markets were reached ; and, what - was more, the old, solid, heavy wares were found good enough to supply them. At length Wurtemberg entered into the ZoUverein, and simultaneously into a period of competition, bringing harder and more exacting times. There was competition with larger establishments, better organization, finer wares, more perfect finish. It was clear that a higher standard must be attained to if the woollen stuffs of Wurtemberg were either to retain their place in foreign countries or continue even to appear in the home markets. It was a struggle which required capital to hold out ; meanwhile the potato disease of 1846 and the subsequent bad harvests in the beginning of the sixth decade of this century only rendered it more hopeless for the smaller manufacturers, many of whom came to ruin in those days. The larger capitalists lived through and learnt ; the trade grew, improved, and adapted itself in great measure to the higher demands made upon it. The storm WURTEMBEEG. 199 that destroyed so many individuals only invigorated the industry itself, fitting it to take advantage of better times. Tbese came at length, mth the good harvests of 1857 and following years, and found the manufacturers occupied in the production of very different fabrics from those ■which had sufl&ced for the foundation of their fortunes in the sheltered but unstable position occupied under the Bavarian Treaty. Shortly after 1830 the old hand-spinning had given Spinning, way to machine spinning, except in some rare instances for special purposes. The 71 factories existing in 1861 for the spinning of Carded wool carded wool for cloth purposes, were established as ^°' "'"'''' ^"^ follows : — Between which years. Factories. No of Spindles. Increased by 1861 to. 1816-29, inclusive 1830-39, 1840-49, 1850-61, 10 16 19 26 5,210 7,280 5,730 10,700 Spindles. 12,360 12,120 10,220 16,422 Total 71 51,122 There has, it will be observed, been a constant increase throughout all these periods, notwithstanding the times of crisis they embrace, while the ratio in the later times is far greater than in those which preceded. In the year 1861, the proportion of spindles to the population of the country was 30 to every 1 ,000 inhabitants. In 1867-68, the number of factories for the preparation of this particular kind of yam was estimated by Dr. Mahrlen at 75, with 60,000 spindles, and employing 2,200 work- men. We have here an increase of only 4 factories, but of 8,878 spindles in six years. The ratio of increase was therefore, stUl progressive, the establishments more extensive. In the year 1868 the number of factories for the preparation of this kind of yarn amounted, according to the official returns, to 64, or 7 less than in 1861 ; but as the number of spindles had nevertheless increased (inclusive of thread spindles) to 60,588 in all, these figures tell the same tale of increase, namely, in the total production, accompanied by concentration in larger 200 WUETEMBERG. Amount produced. I^iimter of liands. Worsted yara spinning from long combed wool. factories. In fact, the g-verage number of spindles per establishment was, in 1861, 720 ; in 1868, 946. Deducting 4,628 spindles twisting thread (" Zwirn- sj)indeln ") there remain 56,030 which were estimated to work up yearly 50,200 centners of wool into 40,500 centners of yarn. The number of workmen employed in the above factories was, in the year 1866-69, 1,380 exclu- sive of directors, overseers, &c. The combed wool manufacturers for the production of worsted, long wool yarns, are four in number, founded as follows : — One in Esslingen, founded 1830 Do. Salach, founded 1848 . . Do. Butegheim, founded 1858 Do. Reuthingen, founded 1866 Fine Spindles. 8,000 3,000 17,240 2,000 Twine Spindles. 600 2,000 500 800 Number of hands employed. Amount Pro luced. Weaving. In all, four factories, vvith 27,240 fine spindles, 3,900 twine ditto, or together 31,140 spindles, against 14,250 ditto in 1861. The number of spindles has accordingly more than doubled in. seven years, while the number of hands employed has only increased from 919 to 1,121, a fact testifying to extensive application of labour-saving processes and machinery. 24,200 centners of wool are (1868) yearly consumed by these factories, and 14,200 centners of yarn pro- duced. In the year 1857-68, out of 2,888 looms for the weaving of woollen tissues which -existed in Wurtemberg, only 1,698 hand and treadle looms and 63 mechanical looms were actually at work. These produced 4,118,000 ells of stuff, in value equal to 8,412,000 fl., Calw and Heidenheim being the principal seats of the industry. Of this quantity a single hand loom furnishes an average of 2,311 ells a-year; one power loom, 3,063 ells a-year. . In 1861, 74 establishments with 527 hand looms and .31 mechanical looms occupying 114 workmen, were employed in the production of cloth and buckskin ; and 22 establishments with 444 hand and 45 power looms and occupying 820. workmen in the manufacture of flannel and mixed stuffs. Even in the case of the above WUKTEMBERG. 201 establishments, the majority of the we'avers worked at home and not in factories, and there were besides 933 master weavers with. 827 assistants occupying 1,54:7 looms, who, entirely independent of factories, gained their living by weaving as a profession, besides 292 individuals, possessing 292 looms who relied on weaving as an occasional occupation and auxiliary handicraft. The amount produced (1861) at, as nearly as possible 5,024,200 ells, worth about 7,191,312 fl. In. 1866 we read of a good sale of cloth during part Last reporti.i of the year, and of increased production in some factories and in certain particular branches of the trade, as the felt and woollen carpet manufactories ; but the general tone is far from . hopeful, and the small hand- workers especially were much affected by Belgian and English competition. The Seports of 1867-68 were bad, showing an over-abundance of the raw material, both from the limited demand and the great colonial shipments of that time. The year 1868 was spoken of as " among the worst that have been experienced for years by woollen manu- facturers whether small or great," and many looms ceased work in the course of it. Besides mild winters, which are far from genial from a cloth-maker's point of view, the high Tariffs adopted in the United States shut out Wurtemberg goods from one of their chief markets : and the inevitable consequence of all this was a reduc- tion of the amount produced. During the first half of the year 1869 the price of the raw. material continued to sink, while the import of foreign wool into England was larger than ever. Still business, though far from satis- factory, was in general better than during the former year and the hopes for the future, though modest, better still, They Were realized in a most unexpected manner and degree. Meanwhile those who could not hold out for the good time coming, failed. In 1870, diminished production had already raised the price of wool, when at length the war came and altogether changed the future of the trade ; while the sudden impulse given to all business by the peace seems to have been equally advantageous to it. Though large stocks of w.ool went over from 1870 to 1871, the end of the latter year saw them reduced as but seldom before ; a tact it will not be difficult to understand when we 202 WUETBMBERG. rememl)er that it is calculated that 2,000,000 of soldiers require at least as many centners of wool, or two-thirds of the total colonial imports of that article into Europe. When the unusual development of the general business is added to this, it is not surprising that the price of wool rose 50 per cent. Some persons capable of judging consider, nevertheless, that the growing consumption of wool, consequent on the previous low prices, also contri- buted to this result. If the year 1871 was a good one for wool-dealers, it was likewise so for cloth-makers. The long-wool spinners appear also to have done well, and one reads of additions to the number of spindles. Military cloth orders con- tributed not a little to this btisy state of things, proving the old adage about ill winds. Blankets and flannels were in brisk demand, and the carpet manufacturers were active, if not entirely contented, and broke ground in Alsace-Lorraine. The demand for wooUen shoe mate- rials increased ; that for felt almost exceeded the powers of the producers, and the larger establishments ministering chiefly to the fashion did a good normal, business. If little good was noticed to result from the annexation of Alsace and Lorraine, business was thereby little disturbed. At present it is from Saxony and North Germany that the chief competition comes; that of the dangerous rivals in the newly -won provinces has in the woollen, as in the cotton trade, yet to be felt in Wm-temberg. Prospects, Altogether, this branch of industiy, though still vigorous and defiant, bears at the present day in Wur- temberg a very different aspect from the manufacture of cotton, and has more to learn and relinquish before finding itself at ease in the arena of modern competition. In tracing the development of this trade, attention has been called to the years of trial and crisis, and the fruits which they bore ; to the introduction in the place of the stiff primitive wares of others more supple, and suited to the times ; to the improvements introduced ; and amid the havoc among small manufacturers, to the partial concentration of the productive powers in stronger hands. It would appear that this ancient branch of industry must be urged yet farther onward in the same path, if it is to continue its existence. Through aU the successive Reports it comes out more and more clearly that, in the present state of the woollen manufacture, the smaller WTTETEMBERG. 203 producers grow year by year less able to bold tbeir own amid the vacillatiiig aspects of the trade, in the face of modem competition. And yet so much of the clotb industry is aj; the present day still scattered in the hands of small producers, that in an oflB.cial Report of 1870, it is recorded that " there is scarcely a small country town in which there are not one or more masters who carry on the cloth manufacture, usually simultaneously with agriculture, while they keej at the same time a retail shop, furnished with the various stuffs required for the con- sumption of their place of abode and its neighbourhood." This state of things can scarcely last. The larger establishments of North Germany, the unstable position of the cloth industry generally, the demands of a fickle taste, all bid fair to drive the petty manufacturers from this field, as he has been driven from so many others ; though it is thought that, by prudent and timely com- bination and association, much of the attendant ruin may be averted. But the elimination of the weaker herd will not alone suffice for salvation. Those that remain upright, will require all their wits and aU their energies to keep so. The vantage ground of ten years ago would now offer but a platform for defeat. The wares and processes that then secured a market, both at home and abroad, risk now to be driven from both. It is in this conviction that we find the Wurtemberg manufacturers now appealed to by their best friends to concentrate the various branches and auxiliary portions of the trade now distributed broadcast over the country; to pay more attention to the modern demand" for articles of taste at moderate prices, and to the finishing and appearance of their goods ; especially to adopt colonial rather than home wools, as more suited to the production of the fashionable fabrics of the day : to do all this, if possible, Avithout detracting from their ancient reputation for solidity of web and fastness of colour, but — quocunque modo — to do it. The principal woollen materials manufactured in Principal this country are : cloth, satin cloth, buckskin, blankets, ^o^'^^"^ s°°^^ flannels, and mixed stuffs. 204 WTJRTEMBBRG. lAnen. Linen. "Wui'temberg obtains flax from Russia, the Low Countries, and home cultivation. The latter source, though stimulated by artificial encouragements during the lifetime of the late King, is not yet by any means on a level with the wishes of the manufacturers. All the more important linen factories make, in fact, a preponderant use of foreign yarn, derived principally from England and, the Netherlands. VicUsitudei of The manufacture of linen is very ancient in this its^de'vdop"^ country, a damask weaving factory and a linen company ment. having been founded by Duke Frederick I, in Urach, as early as 1597. Once the glory of "Wurtemberg, it had already, at the commencement of this century, dwindled from its former high position; nor did its decrepitude stop them. The Napoleonic wars and continental system, the competition of England in transatlantic markets, her application of mechanism to flax spinning, above aU, the extraordinary development of the cotton industry — nay, even the very whims of modem fashion — all contributed to its decay. The whole of Europe participated in the results produced by the above circumstances, under which England attained and maintained that preponderance against which, with varying effect, the struggle is con- tinued up to the present day. In this peaceful conflict Wurtemberg has played a gallant, though a modest, part; and as long ago as the Munich Exhibition, she had the satisfaction of hearing the judgment that, in the imitation of Irish bleaching, finishing, and preparing for market, the Wurtembergers carried off the palm. This was a great step towards recovery of lost ground, but it was not made in a day. Eirst among the measures which prepared the regeneration of the Hnen industry, was the introduction of machine spinning. Up to the year 1840, the yam was all prepared by hand. After two unsuccessful attempts in earlier years, a mechanical flax-spinning factory was at length success- fully established with the help of Government assistance, in Urach, in the year 1840, employing 4,200 spindles. In this same year was organized a society " for the im- provement of flax cultivation and the linen industry ; the finest seed was next brought from Riga ; premiums were WURTEMBERG. 205 given for the cxiltivation of the • plant ; and Government introduced the latest machinery for its preparation. The second measure, and that which maialy con- tributed to insure the above award at Munich, was the amelioration of the processes of bleaching, preparing, and finishing up of liaen goods for market. This too was the work of the Government which introduced an Irish expert in the trade together with English machines, and established the now celebrated bleaching establishments in Blaubeuren and Heidenheim, equal to the best in Germany in those arts, which if they add but slightly to the worth, increase so much the beauty of linen goods. Another establishment which has become the property of the State exists at Weissenau, and there is also a very ancient one at Urach besides many others less important in different parts of the country. By the year 1861, the number of flax-spinning Spinning, factories had only advanced to three workings, in all 5,896 spindles. In 1865 arose another factory with 1,752 spindles, and in 1868 a fifth with 1,000 spindles, making the total number at this latter date 10,94)4 spindles or 5,048 more than in 1861.* At the same time the number of hands employed in the spinning of Number of flax, hemp and tow was 756 including women and em^loed. children. ^ In Wurtemberg linen weaving is still at the present Weaving, day mostly done by hand. Until the establishment of the mechanical weaving factories at Blaubeuren in 1858, this was universally the case. Besides the larger manu- facturers and dealers, thei trade is followed by the so- called " Kaufweber " who either work on their own account for sale in the country markets, or by commission for private persons, or for larger dealers, and themselves employ a certain number of hired weavers usually paid by the piece. The more important dealers both employ hands in factory buildings, and also give out yarn to be spun at home. A decided majority of the weavers work in summer in the fields, and the largest portion of the looms are only in motion some sixty or eighty days per annum (1861). Now, as a loom, to give a man a Hving, must be worked 280 or 300 days in the year, it was calculated, in 1861, that not above 3,000 master weavers * These statistics include the spinning of hemp and tow. 206 WURTEMBERG. Number of weavers. Last reports. could be said to live by weaving alone. Eormerly, the weavers were much in the habit of wandering over the country to effect a sale of their wares, by peddHng in which more evil was done against good jnanners than gain secured by good bargains. The number of weavers, including those who lived by the trade, and those who only worked at it occasionally was estimated, in 1829, at 29,804 ; in 1835 at 24,441 ; in 1852 at 26,000, and in 1861 at 19,507, showing, after some flvictuations, a decrease of over 8,000 persons in thirty years. In the latter year the number of looms Avas 19,379, 43'1 per cent of which were calculated to be regularly worked, and 56'9 per cent, only as an auxiliary means of livelihood. The amount produced was estimated at 22,304,040 ells, worth 7,261,000 fl. (about 605,080/.) The large decrease of numbers after 1850 may in great measure be accounted for by the fact that, at that time, a great number of weavers, seeing the promise of obtaining more ample means of sub- sistence in that direction, went over to the cotton trade. Exact statistics of the condition of this branch of industry later than the above do not exist, and German conscientiousness is not easily brought to approximate estimates, every fraction of which cannot be sworn to. As it was essential however, to the purposes of this report to obtain some notion of the present tendency of the trade, I have extracted what information I could both from the reports of the last years and from persons versed in such matters. It appears then that the number of handloom weavers has decreased considerably and is likely to continue to do so, as well as that of the " Kaufweber " and others working on their own account. At the same time the number of power looms continues to augment, and 100 more such are expected shortly to be set up. The production meanwhile appears to have decidedly fallen below the figure given in 1861, and if one can trust estimates based on the bleaching statistics the fall has been considerable. Here too, as in the wooUen and the cotton trade, the transformation from the small to the large scale has to be made, and the industry is already well on the road, though still far from having reached a basis fitted to modern times. As in the spinning so in the weaving trade, the increase in the number or size of the better kind of WTJETEMBERG. 207 establisliments has of late years gone steadily on, and though, it may he long before the poor weaver has altogether given place to the power loom, the small end of the wedge is well in. In 186&, forty new looms were added at Blaubeuren' and more in 1871. The reports of 1869 and of 1872 also speak of increase in the amount produced in the coimtry. At the end of 1868 a second Second mechanical weaving establishment arose at Raveusburg, weaving twenty looms being then at work out of eighty which it f^'^'^g'^"' was proposed to set up. In Laichirgen one of the principal berg, seats of the manufacture of sheets, damask, quilts, &c., there were in 1871, 621 looms (still divided among 254 establishments) all the pattern and broad looms, and twenty of the smaller ones being of Irish construction. Here the employment of bleached yarn seems to be coming more and more into favour. A Laichingen manufacturer informed me that most of the produce of that place found a market in the country, being either too little known or too' costly to bear a distant desti- nation ; a small portion however, finds its way to Italy. The annexation of Alsace and Lorraine appears to have had as yet little or no influence on this branch of industry. The principal wares produced, are : household linen, ^Merent kinds unbleached or half bleached, and, of a very solid descrip- pro^duced. tion, linen for shirts and pocket handkerchiefs, table linen of good quality, Jacquard damask, packing stuff for sacks, &c. and stiff linen cloth. Silk. Silk has as yet only been produced in Wurtemberg Raw material. in the smallest quantity and rather as an experiment ; though there is every reason to suppose that the climate in many -parts of the country, would be favourable to the cultivation of the mulberry-tree. There were in 1861, seven manufactories of silk Spinning, thread for sewing purposes, stockings, floret and silk trams : these numbered from 6,000 to 6,500 spindles, and employed 487 workpeople. One of the most im- portant, at Ishy, was established as early as 1804. The produce finds its way to Switzerland the Zollverein States and America. The number of looms, at the same date ampunted to Weaving. 208 WURTEMBERft. Spinning at present date. Alsace and ] Lorraine. State and prospects of the trade. 282, working for nine different firms. The principal wares produced, are taffeta, tjlack neck-ties, gros de tours, and satin. In 1869, the account given in the oflB^cial report is not good, and the numher of looms had diminished. An influential and intelligent manufacturer estimates the number at the present day as no more than 250. On the other hand, the silk spinning seems to have steadily increased. In 1868, Dr. Mahrlen gives six estabKshments with 700 workmen, and the report published next year, seven establishments with 11,392 spindles ; showing, with no increase in the number of the factories, a considerable development of their size. This branch of business at this latter time, was satis- factory, and after the peace it received a still further impulse, better machines were here and there intro- duced, and a brisk business done. In October 187], a new silk spinning establishment for the manufacture of organzine, was erected in Wiesenthal, with 4,200 spindles. . The existence of Alsace and Lorraine as part of Germany has as yet been but slightly felt. In conclusion, it may be said that silk weaving scarcely exists in Wurtemberg, while silk spinning is a very modest, but successful branch of trade. The strong, coarse wares' chiefly produced, and used for special purposes seem to be exempt from the dangers of French competition ; but the industry does not take root in the land, and there has hitherto been a dificulty in obtaining workmen. One establishment has lately been obliged to reduce its work on that account, and another has been checked in its development. December 31, 1872. [ Part II. — Conditions of Labour. In endeavouring to answer the three principal heads of inquiry into the actual state of textile industry in Wurtemberg, submitted to Her Majesty's Legation, the respective order has been somewhat inverted. The rate of increase of production, as necessarily involving some retrospection, however brief, has been treated first, there now remains to give some accoimt of the present circum- stances of the producing agent labour, and that with WURTEMBERG. 209 reference to the two chief measures of its cost, wages, and hours of work. Wages in all branches of industry have greatly in- ^j^^j.°^j,"^sea creased in this country of late years. In many trades ^®"*''* ^' there is an increase of from 50 to 90 per cent., in the last ten years, the greater portion of the augmentation having occurred since the war with Prance. Although this has been principally the case in the building-trade, and its ancillary branches, and ia those handicrafts which minister especially to the luxury and comfort of large towns, the wages of manufacturing hands have Factory wages. shared per force in the general rise. Had they indeed been exempt from the causes which acted all around, the enhanced price of living would alone have necessitated an augmentation. Twelve years ago, the average wages in the cotton Comparison industry were reckoned at 45 kr. (about Is. 3d. to Is. 4d.), ^eive years for a day of thirteen hom'S, for a man ; 30 kr. (lOd.) for ago. a woman ; and 20 kr. for a girl or boy, between fourteen and eighteen. Wool-spinning wages were then at between 36 kr., and 1 fl. 12 kr., for gro^Ti men ; between 34f and 36 kr. for women; and for children above fourteen, at from 16 to 24 kr. Wool weavers then earned 1 fl. a day; assistant hands (numberiug about 5 per cent, of the whole) 40 kr. a clay. The linen trade is in great measure peculiar ; its earnings and posi- tion abnormal. Competent persons with whom I con- versed in TJrach, estimate the augmentation in wages of flax and hemp-spinning hands during the last ten years, at about 50 per cent. The increment in the gains of weavers is far smaller, probably not exceeding 10 to 15 per cent of their earnings. A fuller account of their position is given below. Official information obtained in 1872, gives the Present rate, average wages, in the various factories at the present time, as between 48 kr. and 1 fl. 41 kr. a day of twelve hours, for men ; between 38 kr. and rarely 1 fl. 36 kr. for women, and between 24 kr. and rarely 1 fl. for children between 14 and 20 years of age. in one factory, from which returns were obtained, the wages were 1 fl. to 1 fl. 20 kr. for women, and 1 fl. 36 kr. to 2 fl for men ; for weavers, without distinction of sex, the wages are 1 fl. to 1 fl. 45 kr., and for master weavers 2 fl. to 5 a. [150] p 210 WURTEMBERG. Wages still comparatively low. , Circumstances tavouring moderate rate of wages. Absence of trade unions. Right to strike not yet freely exercised.f One firm in the woollen trade estimated the rise in their workpeople's wages since 1860, at from 30 to 40 per cent. Prom the above it is evident that the price of factory labour has been very far from exempt from the general upward tendency. Still, a close examination shows that, excepting only certain instances of skilled or special workmen, the ratio of increase has here been decidedly lower than in the more fortunate occupations such as the building trade alluded to above, where it must some- times, when we consider the shortened time, have reached 100 per cent. Compared too with the earnings of the same class in other northern countries at the present day, a normal rate of wages, of from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. a-day for men and about Is. 6d. for women, may, I take it, be considered low, especially when we take into account the number of hours' work for which it is an equivalent. This is usually twelve, exclusive of intervals of repose, or between seventy and eighty hours a week, while so many trades in England have reduced the number of hours below sixty. What is the explanation of this ? In the first place, the workman's pibroch — " Eight hours to work, and eight hours to play ; " Eight hours to sleep, and eight shillings a day ;" — has not yet startled the . echoes of Swabia, whUe the privilege of striking is altogether a new and imtried addition to the Kberties of Wurtemberg. formerly, the " Handwerksbursch " walked the country carrying in his breast-pocket, a solemn warning, sharpened by penalties, against all manner of trade unions and associations, then illegal, and explicitly against combinations with his fellows with a view to force the hands of employers or obtain an increase of salary. These invidious paragraphs of the Law of 1862 occur no longer among the pages of his " Wanderbuck," while he can now, on the other hand appeal to Articles 152 and 153 of the Imperial law (Gewerbe Ordnung) as solemnly legitimizing his right to strike. But between the chartered admission of a right, and the convenient and practical exercise thereof, there is still an interval, and it is this important space which has not yet been traversed in this country : when once this has taken place, Wurtemberg will, for the first time be brought face to face with one of those antagonistic influences alluded to at the commencement of this WURTEMBEB,&. 211 report, as darkly looming on the horizon of her com- merce. Hitherto the sporadic situation and small scale of Peculiarities Wurtemberg industry, if they have been a source of berTkidustry. much inconvenience and some pecuniary detriment to the manufacturers, have worked for them at least this much of advantage, that they have rendered extensive combinations among workmen difficult if not impossible. The operatives of isolated spuming factories scattered along the banks of woodland streams or connected together in smaller numbers in the neighbourhood of rural towns, or weavers who worked dispersed in their own domiciles and only came into casual contact with one another on their way to and their common employer — these men had little occasion for or incentive to hostile combiuation. But this state of things it is which, as pointed out in a previous part of this report, — both the tendencies and necessities of the present day threaten to put an end to. As yet, though there are various kinds of workmen's clubs, benefit and co-operative societies, &c., but one organization analogous to a trades union proper exists in the country, and that in a sphere remote from factory ■ labour. This is the printers' society of Stuttgardt, and strikes. under its auspices there occurred shortly ago one of the solitary instances of genuine strikes which have as yet troubled this kingdom. The two others, the last of which terminated only a few weeks since, look place among the underpaid cobblers of Stuttgardt, resulting in a considerable augmentation of wages.* These attempts may be pernicious ; but as they are indubitably effective they wiU certainly be renewed. Meanwhile the autho- rities of the coimtry are wisely anxious to be beforehand with a law regulating and defining the legal position of associations, the multiplication of which is a matter of certainty, and to which corporate rights must be and are accorded. The character of the people and the small amount influences of foreign alloy at present existing among the manu- strlk^^Ld facturing population, which has consequently not been subsidiary to inoculated to any extent with the doctrines of the °'^ ™^^^" international, contribute doubtless their share to the present peaceful state of things. There are, however, * Fullv 25 per cent, altogetlier, p 2 212 WURTEMBEUG. Freehold tene« ments of factory hands. Conservative infiueDCe of possession. Frugality and temperance. peculiar circumstances influencing the position of a large portion of the labouring population of this country and common in great measure to its neighbour Switzer- land, without which it were not possible to explain the maintenance of so low a rate of wages unaccompanied by agitation and discontent. The principal of these is the tie which, in a majority of cases exists between the factory hand, and the soil on which the factory is reared. This connection is not only that of birth and parentage, local habit and association — it is the strongest in human nature, that of possession. Proletarianism and proprietorship cannot advance far together; and the Wurtemberg workman is, in a very great number of cases, either de facto or de jure futuro, a proprietor. Either by virtue of his own possessions or of those of his relatives, he frequently belongs, as positively in kind, whatever be the difference of degree, to the class of freehold landholders as the mediatized princes of the Court. Sometimes the soil inclosed by the four walls of the family house is the extent of this peculium, often howev.er a garden and potato-field, and not rarely several morgen of land may be added to the roll of the estate. When the handicraft is one pursued at home, the agricultural occupations often take up as large a portion of the workman's time and bring in as great a proportion of his gains as he derives from loom and shuttle ; the share of each varying with the seasons. Such men are true- adstricti glebes and do not easily become agitators. The continuance of such a state of things as this must without doubt have been assisted by the laws and regu- lations which formerly so effectively hampered marriage,- checking alike population and improvidence. Whether the prudential suggestions floating through the con- sciousness of the modern operative, will, in the freedom from all such restrictions and restraints, long secure the same results, has yet to be experienced. Another circumstance is to be foimd in the habits and requirements of the man himself. Be it owing to the climate or to what it may, certain it is that in no part of the world does the labouring man eat and drink as in England. Long may he continue to do so ! But the discontented gloom with which he has of late been sometimes disposed to regard his victuals might perhaps be somewhat dissipated by a wholesome contemplation WTTBTEMBEEG. 213 of the denizens of other lands. While the Wurtemberg operatiye is happy with brown, black, or rye bread, in England even the inmates of workhouses are regaled with white. While the Suabian is contented with meat once or twice a week, the Englishman looks for his quantum of flesh with each returning noon. Both are free ia their libations, but owing to the greater costliness of liquor, and greater proneness to excess, the larger sums are without doubt expended in driak by the Englishman. Besides, these very material con- siderations, the Wurtemberg working-man is better educated and consequently better able to comprehend the advantages of frugality and economy. Lastly, although neat and trim in their Sunday best, it must be long before the Suabian women of this class incline to the lace and velvet of our colliery vdves. Legal restrictions on self-assertion, from which he is but now emancipated, dissemination through the country, frugality, and the possession of auxiliary means of supplementing wages, are then the principal circum- stances which have hitherto enabled Wurtemberg to maintain so low a rate of factory wages. Some of these Critical times are already of the past, others are receding day by day ''°™"'s- before the pressure of the new order of things — the time is one of transformation and of crisis. While her low rate of wages has hitherto assisted '^^s^s Wurtemberg in competition with England and other conne^edwith countries it is a singular fact that the proportional advantages of division of labour among the three categories of wages, SiTan^d men, women, and children, as compared to the repar- "^'^^ i!>.y>ouT. tition existing in England, did, by unfavourably affecting the general average, formerly reduce this advantage to a minimum; It thus happened that, twelve years ago, while the individual wages were 100 per cent, higher in England than in Wurtemberg, yet the cost per spindle in wages was at the same time only 13 to 20 per cent, lower in the latter than in the former country. A spindle was then estimated to cost, in wages alone, 2 fl. 48 kr. on an average, within the limits of the ZoUverein, and 3 fl . 17 kr. in England, while the average wages (taken between men, women and children) in England was 1 fl. 8 kr. against 32-2 kr. in Wurtemberg, or more than double. England in fact paid each individual man, woman and child greater wages than these same classes received in 214 WUBTEMBEEG. Wurtemberg in the proportion which 111^, 496, and 23"8 respectively bear to 45, 30, and 20, and yet the wages cost per spindle in England was all the while only some 15 per cent higher than in Wurtemberg. It was natural that this apparent paradox attracted attention, nor did the constant introduction in Great Britain of labour- saving machinery alone suffice to explain it. The solu- tion lay in the relative proportions of male, female and child labour employed in either country. These were in 1858, in Wurtemberg, nearly as follows : 34-1 per cent, men, 37'9 per cent, women, 28 per cent, children against 27 per cent, men, 56 per cent, women, and 17 per cent, children in England, or, in other words, Wurtemberg employed a much greater proportion to the more expen- sive agency. Attention once drawn to this fact, and to its importance in the competition with England, it is too evident and vital not to have had considerable influence over the factory arrangements of later years. Unfor- tunately, I have not been able to obtain any statistics giving positive data as to the proportions of men, women and children employed at the present day. In 1871, Factory aU howcvcr, a Spinning factory was set up, the work-people worked by ^f wMch wcrc aU women ; and the reports of 1872 speak again and again of the continued rise of wages, and of the corresponding necessity of introducing labour-saving machinery. Such straws show which way the wind is blowing. Rise in wages. The prcscut demand for higher wages is in great ^nnected with m^asure, no doubt, a result of the general rise in prices, socurmovZ' and win, so far, leave values undisturbed, causing but '"™'- temporary inconvenience to the manufacturer. With respect to that part, however, which is the expression of a determination on the part of the laboiiring classes to claim a larger share of tbe gross produce of labour and abstinence, the naatter is more serious, and wears for Wurtemberg an. aspect of repelling novelty. 1,700,000 new cotton spindles, and the right to strike, are gifts of ambiguous accuracy. Restrictions Under these circumstances, it is perhaps as well that °^Iu-,TuL„. the new law of trade and commerce now in vigour in this country, and from the commencement of 1873 to be strictly enforced, so peremptorily lays down the limita- tions of the utilization of child-labour in factories — ^the employment of children under 12 in regular factory of child labour. WTTETEMBEEa. 215 work being forbidden, from 12 to 14 permitted only for six liours, and from 14 to 16 only for ten hours daily, with special guarantees as to schooling and intervals of recreation during the day. These provisions, I think I may venture to say, are far from popular among em- ployers in this country. It is especially objected that by them all classes of manufacture are aUke interdicted from the resource of juvenile labour, although differing mate- rially in their injurious influences. It is furthermore asserted, not without some reason, Eeiation of that it is a great misfortune for a child of this class to factorl^^es grow up without having acquired, in teneris, the manual to social skiU and diligent habits essential to an artizan ; while it ^"®^"<'°- 1 ' is maintained that the strict school regulations and rigid control of the authorities sufficed to prevent all abuses of the liberty hitherto enjoyed. It may certainly be advanced on this side of the question that, if the effect of these provisions prove to be an increase of the number of semi-educated persons devoid of labour, habits, and discipline, and wanting in aptitude to earn ther bread by the labour of their hands, they will not serve to lubricate the mechanism of the social question, whose ominous grating begins here, as elsewhere, to occupy all serious minds. Weavers of Urach. 1 venture to append to this Report a few notes on the present state of the hand-loom weavers, taken from personal observation at one of the ancient centres of that industry, as not without important bearing on its subject-matter. Backed against remains of feudal wall and ditch a Habitations.^ row of two-storied houses, more picturesque than con- venient, form the principal quarters of the weavers of Urach — a class who manifest as irresistible evidence of having overHved their day as the battlements and towers which buttress their habitations. Indeed, the number of frames worked at home, independent of factory disci- pline, has decreased, within the memory of elderly men ^ still living, from over a 100 to about 21; while, on Decay and ' the other hand, the prejudice against the busy factories diminution c^ down the valley and upon the plateau behind, is no """^ ^'^' longer strong enough with the younger generation to 216 WTJETBMBEBG. Pro'-luce. Distribution of employment and sources of remuneration. Antiquated customers. overrule the inducement of far greater and more certain earnings. » The industry is confined to the production of linen cloth, and those mixtures of Unen and cotton known as " Halhlein," in Avhich the warp is of flax or hemp, the weft of cotton. The frames, which are usually the property of the weavers, hut sometimes liired, cost ahout 50 gulden, and last for generations. Entering the door of these houses, a narrow stair leads to the room above, in which a great amount of preparatory work is done by the female members of the household, and where the finished cloth is carefully stowed away until bleached, and finally disposed of. On the ground-floor, or more frequently in the sub- terranean regions of the cellars, stand the looms, four or five together. The men who work them are sometimes also the owners, two or more friends or relatives occupy- ing the same cave for mutual warmth and solace; or there is a master-weaver over all, and the others are • " Gesellen," or workpeople. When the latter is the case, the work is paid by the piece, and the assistants are allowed — within reasonable limits — to come and go when they like. Sometimes the less independent owners of single looms are employed by such a master-weaver to help him out in work he has undertaken ; or they work for a wholesale dealer or small manufacturer who, may be, supplies the yarn ; or on their own account for sale in the market, or for hawking about the country. All the weavers work at times for private " Kunde," that is, old-fashioned givers of odd jobs. These are mostly old women, who cannot be brought to put faith ia modem machinery, or to forswear the good ways of their forefathers. Such a one will buy her own raw material in the market, or even cultivate it in her own field, and thereupon hunt up, among the villages of the Alb, an antiquated crone with a spinning-wheel, and get her, during the whiter, to sphi it into yam by hand. This done, she wilt again set out — now, in the summer months — and make her bargain with a weaver, that her hand-spun may likewise be hand-woven ; for if she can help it, no machine-made fabric ever crosses her thresh- h'old. Eor the weaving she pays about 9 kr. an ell, which is a higher rate than the regular employer on a larger scale is charged. WUETEMBERG. 217 The work in this trade is paid by the piece, and the ^^^^^ earnings, depending as they do on the age, application, **""°8s- skill, and even strength of the weavers, are very varied. , Average earnings for good work are 48 kr. a_ day. A strong chest can work the broad frames and gaia more ; an old man of 70 can only work " Halbleia," using the old- fashioned shuttle tlirown from hand to hand, being, as he said, too weakly to give the thrust necessary for driving home liaen thread, and too old for the modern improvement. He was thus, only able to produce six ells a day of an inferior fabric worth only 4 kr. an ell to him, and consequently his earnings rarely exceeded 24 kr., though sometimes an extra ell or so brought them slightly over 30 kr. In another workshop, manned by lusty young fellows, the master estimated their earnings at 48 kr., though he said a gulden might be got by strong arms and assiduous application. A small nervous weaver of about 48, but still as nimble as his shuttle, aflrmed that in his youth he had often been able to earn a gulden a day, and that he had, as an exception, pro- duced as much as 20 ells in the 24 hours; he now produced but ten or twelve. An elderly man stated that 20 years ago, he could make a piece in five days, which Augmentation brought him in 3 guldens, now with the help of the "quitStto new shuttle, he can get it done at a pinch in fom-, and real advantage, receives 8 guldens 15 kr. for the work, giving some 48 kr. a day as against 36 kr. in the old times. But, alas, as he added with a grim smile of recollection, the 36 kr. went farther in those days than the 46 do now. As for the hours of work required to secure this "onrsof scanty pittance, they may be put at from twelve to fourteen. A man aged 55 earning 46 kr. a day, with his father-in-law aged 70 earning 24 kr., came, they said, to their cellars, summer and winter, with the dawn, and often worked till 9 p.m. by the light of a lamp. Out of this time they allowed themselves something under two hours for their meals, leaving some fourteen employed in toiling for the 46 or 48 kr. Although seemingly their own masters hunger stands Hunger, the ,^ ° 1 . . , ° S ., . „ . ° overseer. over them whip m hand ; it is a case ot no piece no pay, and without the cloth be ready folded on the fifth day the 3 guldens will not be forthcoming. Moreover this result, modest as it is, is not produced ^"j^"*"^ by the subterranean workers alone. Above the dank 218 WURTEMBERG. Higher gains in factories. Day labourers' position; in wliat superior. A losing game Why the weaver still plays to lose. cave in "whioli the wearers sit, are other busy hands whose activity must contribute to the winning of the quotidian 48 kr. A wife, children, or in their default, a hired lass (" Gekauftes Madchen," costing 30 kr. a day) have to prepare the work, wind the yarn for the shuttle and knot the warp on to the frame. When the latter is a broad one this little preliminary may occupy one person for a day. The weaver just alluded to, estimated the ancillary labour necessarily preceding his day's work at three hours ; so that beside any other little calls on time and money which the loom may make, here is evidence of seventeesn hours work given for the 48 kr. In a factory a man and wife could scarcely earn less, do what they might, than 1 g. 30 kr. between them in exchange for twelve hours labour. While the earnings of the common day labourer have increased some 50 per cent, in the last twenty years, those of the weaver have only risen 36 per cent., an increment which does not keep pace with the increased cost of living. The net result is consequently a loss, and the game a losing one. How is it, then, that the twenty- one frames do not follow the fourscore ? What special charm is there in the weaver's condition that keeps him from the open doors of the factory ? On a diet of coarse bread, cheese, saussage, and potatoes, innocent on most days of meat, but enriched by " Mehlspeisen," milk, and coffee, and corrected by a glass of schnapps, beer, or wine, these haggard men hold out the livelong days in unfloored cellars, in many of which no attempt is made at heating by fire, not even in the keen mid-Avinter of the Alb. Even thus it is a hard struggle to keep going, and a happy exception when, like the case of one man who came under my notice, a quarter of a century of persis- tent labour, frugality, and economy results in the posses- sion of 4 or 5 morgen of land, some scanty furniture, and enough to provide bread and potatoes in proportion to the appetites of the family. With meat, as it now sells in Urach at 22 to 24 kr., or nearly Sd. a lb., and bread at 5J kr., or slightly under 2d. a lb., the fight is a desperate one. But still it continues to be maintained— independence of aU but self-imposed rules and routine ; emancipation from all other masters but self; stern, though hunger and necessity render this one; the breathing of a purer, less crowded air, free from dust and WTJRTEMBERG. 219 steam and ceaseless din ; the power, whether used or not, to go and come at will ; to shorten to-day's task and lengthen to-morrow's, or to exchange at times the weary sitting altogether for a week's apple-gathering or field- lahour ; last, but not least, strong inherited habit, preju- dice, association, and tradition : these are the influences which keep the gaunt weavers in the flagging ranks, and nurture them to the pitiless contest, leaving the young and lusty to do homage, if they will, to the new power of the crank and wheel. Patient industry ; rigid abste- miousness; the help of his family, no trifle in such a trade ; the produce of his potato-field or of his goats and fo^ls ; freedom in the rule from rent : these are his allies in the struggle — ^but even with such, it would seem that his time is now near, his doom certain. January 13, 1873. 221 Appendix. Sir A. Buchanan to Earl Granville. My Lord, Vienna, March 10, 1873. IN reply to your Lordship's despatch of the 4th instant, addressed to Mr. Mounsey, relative to the infor- mation desired by Her Majesty's Government respecting Austrian textile fabric factories, I have the honour to state that the Report, alluded to in my despatch of the 19th December last, from the Reichenberg Chamber of Commerce, which Count Andrassy con- sidered necessary for a complete statement on the subject, has not yet been received by the Austrian Government. Mr. Mounsey, whom I instructed yesterday to call on the Director of the Commercial Department of the Foreign Office, was informed that owing to the Inter- national Exhibition, the Ministry of Commerce, the different Chambers of Commerce, and the manufacturers generally were so much occupied that it was almost impossible to obtain the information asked for. Baron Gagem said, however, that he would request the Minister of Commerce to communicate, at once, to him such details on the subject as might be already in his possession. With regard to your Lordship's inquiry as to whether the Secretary of Her Majesty's Embassy has been enabled to draw up a Report on textile fabrics ia Austria from other sources than those expected to be derived from the Austro-Hungarian Ministry of Commerce, I beg to state that, as no statistical publications on the subject exist iu this country, it has been out of his power to do so. I have, &c. (Signed) ANDREW BUCHANAN. EEPORTS HER MAJESTY'S SECRETARIES OE EMBASSY AND LEGATION RESPECTING EAOTOEIES SPINNING AND WEAVING OP TEXTILE EABRI08 ABEOAD. PART II. Presented to both Mouses of Parliament by Command of Her Blajesty. 1873. LONDON : PRINTED BY HARRISON AND SONS. 1873. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Letter from the Home Office, inclosing Memorial from tiie National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland .. .. .. .. .. July 13, 1872 in Circular addressed to Her Majesty's Representatives abroad . . July 20, v Ftjkthee Rbpohts in answer to the preceding Circular. Country. Residence. Name. Date. Page Austria Vienna Sir A. Buchanan April 24, 1873 223 i> • . » 1) Aug. 17, 226 France Paris Mr. Lee-HamUton . . Not. 21, 1872 228 Hungary . . Pesth Mr. Monson Oct. 11, 1873 229 Italy Rome Sir A. Paget Not. 28, 233 Netherlands The Hague . . Sir E. Harris April 18, 234 Saxony Dresden Mr. Burnley Sept. 16, 271 United States Washington . . Mr. Harrig-Gastrell . June 28, 277 APPENDIX. Itaiy Rome Sir A. Paget Dec. 4, 1873 815 Erratum. At page 233, last line of second foot note, /or "page 811," read "page 815." Mr. Liddell to Mr. Hammond. Sir, Whitehall, July 13, 1872. I AM directed by Mr. Secretary Bruce to transmit to you, herewith, a copy of a Memorial from the National Association of Factory Occupiers ia Great Britain and Ireland, praying that the Government would take steps to obtain certain ioformation connected with factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics on the Continent, and especially in the countries named ; and I am to request that in laying the same before Lord Granville, you will move him to cause Mr. Bruce to be informed whether he could obtain the desired informa- tion through the medium of the Diplomatic Officers in those countries. I am, &c. CSigned) A. P. O. LIDDELL. Inclosure. Memorial. To the night Honourable Henry Austen Bruce, M.P., one of Her Majesty's Secretaries of State. The Memorial of the Undersigned, representing the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland, Humbly sheweth, — That your Memorialists request permission to draw your attention to the necessity which in. their judgment exists, that authentic and reliable information should be [353 I B 2 IV oMaiaed and published as to the hours of labour, the rates of wages, and the progressive increase of production in factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics on the Continent, especially in Germany, Austria, Belgium, Holland, France and Switzerland. That in the present state of the labour market, and in face of the increased importation of foreign manu- factures iato this country, this Association apprehends there will not be any difference of opinion as to the importance and value of such information impartially obtained. That this Association is of opinion that this can only be done effectually by the Government, and whilst avoiding the expense and delay of a Royal Commission, which this Association is informed has been suggested in some quarters, would enable the Government to take such action upon any proposal for farther legislation restricting the hours of labour as would satisfy the House and the country. Your Memorialists therefore pray that you will sanction the inquiry prayed for in this Memorial. And your Memorialists will ever pray. (Signed) EDMD. ASHWORTH, Chairman. JOSEPH SIMPSON, Treasurer. HENRY WHITWORTH, Secretary. 96, King Street, Manchester, July 11, 1872. Circular addressed to Her Majesty's Representatives abroad. Foreign Office, Sir, July 20, 1872. I TRANSMIT to you herewith copies of a Memorial which has been addressed to Her Majesty's Secretary of State for the Home Department by the National Association of Factory Occupiers in Great Britain and Ireland. You will perceive that information is asked for by the Association on certain points connected w^ith factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics on the Continent, more especially in the countries named in the Memorial. And I have to request that you will instruct one of the Secretaries of your Mission to furnish a report on the subject before the end of the year. I have, &c. (For Earl Granville) (Signed) ENFIELD. 223 Austria. Sir A. Buchanan to Earl Granville. My Lord, Vienna, April 24, 1873. With reference to your Lordship's Circular despatches of this series, of the 20th July and 3rd October last, I have the honour to inclose herewith a note and memo- randum from Count Andrassy, together with translations by Sir George Bonham, containing all the information which the Ministry of Commerce has as yet been able to collect relative to those points connected with factories for the spinning and weaving of textile fabrics which are referred to in the first of your Lordship's above-mentioned despatches, as well as to the cultivation of flax in Cislei- thania. No information with respect to these branches of in- dustry has yet been received from Hungary. (Signed) ' ANDREW BUCHANAN. In closure 1. Count Andrassy to Sir A. Buchanan. (Translation.) In their note of the 18th December, the Ministry for Foreign Affairs had the honour to inform Sir A. Buchanan that- the Ministry of Commerce was preparing a Eeport on Austrian commercial policy, and would not fail to answer the questions of the British Government respecting the cultivation of flax and the manufacture of textile fabrics, as soon as the partially collected statistics had been brought together and placed before them. The Ministry for Foreign Affairs is now able to place at the disposition of Sir Andrew Buchanan the accom- panying memorandum of the required information, which, however, only embraces the countries represented in the [353] Q ^^'^ AUSTRIA. Reichsrath, and returns at the same time the Circular of the British Foreign Office, dated October 3. The Minister of the Imperial Household and for Foreign Affairs reserves the right to supplement the present communication with similar information relating to Hungary, and avails him- self, &c. (For the Minister of Foreign Affairs) (Signed) OREZY. Vienna, April 16, 1873. Inclosure 2. Memorandum. (Translation.) 1. The Hours of Work, Wages, and Increase in the Production of Woven Goods in Austrian Manufactories. Work in the Austrian weaving establishments goes on throughout the whole year, with the exception of Sundays, the Church festivals, and certain national or local festivals. The number of working days, therefore, in most manufactories is about 300. It exceeds this average in some, while in others it sinks to 290. The daily hours of work amount to 12 here and there, more especially in summer to 13 in other places, and in winter to 10 or 11. The rate of wages varies according to the fluctuation of the average market price and the price of provisions in different districts. It adjusts itself further according to the description and sex of the labourer. In the year 1870 the daily wages of a labourer employed in the manu- facture of textUe fabrics, at their highest average, were as follows: — Lower and Upper Austria. ■ Voralberg Tyrol . . Kreutzers. ,. 80 to 1 florin. . 65 .. 60 Bohemia (flat, or low, country) Galicia . Other districts . . . 50 40 to 45 . 55 Since then there has been everywhere an increase in wages, which amounts to and even exceeds 20 per cent. With reference to the question of the increase of the produce of the loom in Austrian manufactories, no suffi- AUSTRIA. 226 cient information can be given, because it is only latterly that statistical data have been collected on the advance- ment of industrial products. As far as can be gathered from them, the production of textile articles in Austrian establishments during the year 1870 are — ' Value in florins (Austrian CTirrency). Cotton fabrics .. .. .. 35,000,000 Woollen fabrics .. .. .. 60,000,000 Silk .. .. .. .. 7,000,000 Ribbon (lace work and manufacture of borders) .. .. .. 10,000,000 Linen manufactures — The portion pro- duced in factories is small and amounts to .. .. .. 5,000,000 The cotton manufactures in the years 1870 and 1871 show a remarkable increase, which is principally to be attributed to the cheaper price of raw materials, and to the interruption of foreign (i.e., French and German) competition on account of the war. Woollen manufactures have also considerably increased since 1866, on account of the requirements of the army, and the increased consumption (of such goods) in the interior. Since, however, the foreign, and especially the English, competition (favoured by the lowering of the agis and the duties on imported woollen manufactures) bias made itself felt to the most wonderful extent, the condition of this branch of industry has become less favourable. The manufactures named above, under the heads C and D, are in a flourishing condition. Latterly, indeed, these (being principally concen- trated in and about Vienna) have been injuriously affected by the great increase of wages, and some branches of the business have been affected to such an extent as not to make any Eeturns. 2. Districts lohieh in Austria are devoted to the Cultivatiot, of Flax. Number of flax-yarn factories and spindles ? Condition of the linen trade and number of mechanical looms ? According to the harvest statistics of 1871, compiled by the Imperial Ministry of Agriculture from the harvest Returns made upon a classified basis by the Agricultural Q 2 226 AUSTRIA. Societies, the flax-growing districts of Austria (exclusive of Hungary) covered an area of 177,657 "jochs," or 177,657 Austrian square miles. On this cultivated area there were grown in 1871, 840,900 cwts. The number of flax-yarn manufactories at work in 1870 amounted to 62, with 370,790 spindles. The manufacture of linen, especially in Bohemia, Silesia, and Moravia, is carried on principally by means of hand looms. Spinning by machinery is being only very slowly established. The number of machine looms in use amount to 346, of which 294 are in Silesia, 30 in Moravia, and 22 in Tyrol. Sir A. Buchanan to Earl Granville. My Lord, Vienna, August 7, 1863. With reference to my despatch of the 24th of April last, I have the honouj to inclose herewith a note, together with a translation by Mr. Mounsey, which I have received from Count Andrassy containing statistical data as to the amount of land under flax cultivation in Hungary, and of the quantity of textile fabrics produced there. I have, &c. (Signed) ANDREW BUCHANAN. Inclosure. Count Andrassy to Sir A. Buchanan. (Translation.) gir Vienna, August 3, 1873. 'In its note of the 16th of April last the Ministry for Foreign Affairs reserved to itself to comply with the wishes of the British Government by supplementing the information then given relative to the cultivation of flax and the manufacture of textile fabrics in Austria, with similar information relative to these branches of industry in Hungary. The Minister for Foreign Affairs has now the honour to forward to Sir A. Buchanan the result of the AUSTRIA. 227 inquiries made with reference to these subjects by the Hungarian Ministry of Commerce. In the year 1871 there were about 25,000 joch* under flax cultivation in Hungary and Transylvania ; in the former country the average yield, was 6"65 cwt. seed, and 3-16 cwt. flax per joch, in the latter 3-79 cwt. seed and 3*15 flax. The following countries are those in which the greatest extent of land was under flax cultivation : — Joch. Zips . . . . 3,343 Eisenburg . . 2,091 Saros . . .. 1,947 Jorda. . .. 1,671 Pest . . .. 1,486 Arna . . .. 1,037 Csongrad . . 1,027 Trencsin .. 1,025 In none of the other countries did the extent of land so cultivated exceed 1,000 joch. The amount of linseed produced in Hungary and Transylvania was 105,668 cwt., and the amount of flax was 80,309 cwt. As regards textile fabrics it must be remarked that in the northern districts of Hungary and Transylvania a considerable quantity of flax is woven by the peasants in their leisure hours, and that the comparatively small number of professional weavers is a matter of little import. Their number may be stated at 7,970, but many of them only work in winter. The number of looms is much greater, as in the above-mentioned districts almost every peasant's house is provided with a loom, from which during the winter the members of the family not only supply their own wants, but also produce fabrics of very fair quality for sale. The Undersigned would add that the produce of flax in Croatia, Slavonia, and the military frontier, amounts to about 60,000 cwt., and avails, &c. Tor the Minister for Foreign Affairs, (Signed) OREZY. * 1 joch equal about 2 acres. 228 France. Lord Lyons to Earl Granville. My Lord, Paris, November 21, 1872. EvEET endeavour has been made at this Embassy to obtain the information relative to the hours of labom-, rates of wages, and increase of production in factories for the spinniQg and weaving of textile fabrics, which was called for by your Lordship's Circular despatch of the 20th of July last. I have the honour to iaclose a memorandum by Mr. Lee-Hamilton, which shows that although it has not hitherto been possible to procure this information, there is nevertheless some hope that it may be forth- coming before the end of the year. I have, &c. (Signed) LYONS. Inclosure. Memorandum. I HAVE made inquiries at the Ministry of Commerce, and have been assured that it is qidte impossible to obtain just at present the information required by the National Association of Factory Occupiers, as set forth in Earl GranviUe's Circular of the 20th of July. That information is entirely statistical, and the statistics at present existing on the subject of the hours of labour, rates of wages, and progressive increase of production in spinning and weaving factories, are too old to be of use. I was informed, however, on the 12th instant that the French Government is now collecting, returns on a variety of subjects, which include the points upon which information is wanted in the present case, and that they wiU certainly be in a state to be communicated to the Embassy before the end of the ^^^' (Signed) E. LEE-HAMILTON. British Embassy, Paris, November 21, 1872. 229 Hungary. Report hy Consul-General Monson. According to all the information I have heen able to ohtain, there are at this moment but four factories of this nature iu Hungary, namely, one at Gats, ia the county of N^ograd, of which M. Ignaiz Stricher is pro- prietor ; one at Losenz, also in the county of N^ograd ; and two at Kasmark. There was also a bag and hemp- twine factory at B^la, which stopped work on the 21st of July, 1872 ; and a spumirig factory in Pesth, which was unfortunately burnt to the ground on the 16th of September last, and about the operations of which I have not been able to procTire any details. As, accord- ing to the last Returns, the number of men, women, and cMldren employed in these four factories collectively amoTinted to only 430 souls, it is clear that with refer- ence to a country containing a population of more than 12,000,000, the manufacture of textile fabrics cannot properly be called an " iadustry " in the usual accepta- tion of the term. The average daily wages agaia are of so low an amoimt in comparison with those earned by the opera- tives in other industries ia the capital, although, of course, relatively higher than the earnings of the agricultural labourers throughout the country, that the factory hands, few in number as they are, are not elevated by marked pecuniary advantages into a class distinct by its habits, its comforts, or its social position, from the bulk of the population by which it is sur- rounded. The highest average wages of the male hands appear to be 80 kreutzers (equal to about Is. 6d.) a-day ; the lowest, half that sum ; the women earning from 30 to 50 kreutzers, and the children from 18 to 30 kreutzers. 230 HTJN&ART. The working day is, in the factory at Gats, of 11 hours' length; in the other three factories above mentioned, it consists of 12 hours. The number of working days in the year vary from 250 to 260-, 270, and 280, according to the factory. None of these factories are situated withra a reason- ably accessible distance of Pesth, and I have not therefore visited any of them personally. I do not imagine that the capital depends, except in an infini- tesimal degree, upon any of them for the supply necessary for its wants. Prom such inquiries as I have made, and from personal observation during my resi- dence here, I should say that native manufactures had but very little sale beyond the locality of their produc- tion; and that goods imported from Germany and France, and to a certain extent from England also, supply the demands of the market. Neither do I imagine that there is any immediate prospect of the estabhshment of factories of the kind in question. The bent of the people is purely agricultural, and the great mineral resources of large tracts of the country are not yet. suf&ciently developed to promote such establishments. There are but few large towns within the Realm of St. Stephen, but the construction of railways, which is proceeding rapidly throughout the country, and the more thorough working and develop- ment of the coal, copper, and iron mines in certain districts, will, probably, in the course of time, bring with them the usual results in the creation of new centres of industry, and the conversion of a portion of the population from agricultviral to manufacturing pursuits. I append a few Tables, explanatory of the position ot the existing factories at the present moment :— HUNGARY. 231 I.— Table of Working Hands. Sex. t Average Daily Wages for a— ^a Place. J si In ^ £■3 J Remarks. a s R? sa ^ s ^ u 8S KM S is O Kr* Kr. Kr. 6at3 16 25 17 380 n 60 SO 18 Situated in the county of V^o^rad ; proprietor, M, Ignaez Striclier. R9 126 16 380 13 SO 50 SO lu the county of Kfiograd ; cloth manumctory , of 1m- senz. Eiismark . 3i 112 370 12 60 42 First Hungarian flax and liuen spinning machine. K&smark . S 2 2 250 13 40 30 25 Fine wool-twine factory. * Krclizters of tbe value of i\ to one penny. II. — Table of Raw Material and Euel consumed during the Year. Quality and Quantity of Fuel. Quality and Quantity of Raw Material. Place. Kind of Fuel.- Amount Consumed. Quality. Quantity. Whence Procured. Centners. Gats .. Oak wood . . 780° Middle fine wool 10,000 From Pesth. Losenz , . Coals from 30,000 Wool 14,000 From the counties of Salgo Tarjan centners Neograd and the neighbourhood. Kasmark Wood 900° Flax and tow (oakum) 2,000 From the neighbour- hood. Kasmark '• Wool 100 From the neighbour- hood. N.B. — The Austrian centner is equal to about 125 lbs. English. III. — Table of Articles produced during the Tear. Place. Quality of Articles. -4juount. Value in Austrian Florins. G&ts .. Losenz .. Kasmark . Eiismark . Common cloth for soldiers Shawls of different kinds and cloth Flax and hemp twine . Sheep's wool-twine . . 90,000 ells 10,000 bushels 95 centners 290,000 46,000 7,090 N.B. — At the average rate of exchange last year the English pound sterling equalled eleven florins. The bag and hemp-twine factory at B^la, which, as I have mentioned, suspended work on the 21st of July 232 HUNGARY. of last year, employed 8 men, 50 women, and 10 children, for an average of 280 days of 13 hours each during the year. It imported twine and jute from Austna and England, and manufEictured yearly for the four years of its existence, on an average, 80,000 pieces of stuff for bags, to the value of 50,000 florins. It seems that, had the undertakii^ heen properly managed with due mechanical and technical sMU, there was no reason whatever agaiast its complete success. Pesth, October 11, 1873. 233 Italy. Sir A. Paget to Viscount Enfield. Rome, November 28, 1873. Sir Augustus Paget presents his compliments to Lord Enfield, and in reply to his Lordship's letter of the 21st instant, has the honour to inform him that Mr. Herries' Eeport on the industrial condition of Italy, transmitted to Earl Granyille in Sir A. Paget's despatch of the 17th July last,* contained specific information on the points connected with the spinning and weaving factories referred to in the Circular of the 20th July. A Commission appointed hy the Italian Government to visit the provincial manufacturing towns and collect information to be laid before Parliament has finished its labours, but its Eeports wiU not be published before the end of the present year, until which time there are no elements for obtaining further information.t * See "Reports by Her Majesty's Secretaries of Embassy and Legation on the Manufactures, Commmerce, &c., of the Countries in which they reside. No. 4 (1872)," p. 321. t A Paper containing all the information respecting hours of labour, rates of wages, &c., embodied in the written evidence laid before the above Commission will be found in the Appendix, page 811. 234 Netherlands. Sir E. Harris to Earl Granville. My Lord, _ The Hague, April 18, 1873. In obedience to the instructions contained in your Lordship's Circular, dated July 20, 1872, the Secre- tary of this Legation endeavoured to obtain from private sources (there being no published statistics on the subject) the information required by the National Association of Factory Occupiers respecting hours of labour, rates of wages, and progressive increase of pro- duction in factories for spinning and weaving textile fabrics. Mr. Locock. encountered so much difficulty, from the jealousy and reticence of employers, in obtain- ing the information required, that I was induced to address myself for it to the E'etherlands Government; and it will be observed from the copy of Baron Grericke's note, which I have the honour to inclose, that the Dutch Authorities met with the same obstacles, and, in conse- quence, the Eeturns are not so complete as his Excellency would have wished. They, however, contain considerable information, and I have the honour to transmit their translations, which have been carefully made. I have &c. (Signed) ' B. A. J. HAREIS. NETHERLANDS. 235 Inclosure 1. Baron Geriche to Sir E. Harris. M. le Vice-Amiral, La Haye, le 5 Mars, 1873. En r^ponse k voire office du 16 E"ovembre dernier par lequel vous me demandez des renseignements au sujet des fileries et des tisseranderies dans les Pays Bas, j'ai I'honneur de porter a votre connaissance que le Ministre de rint^rieur s'est adress^ aux Commissaires du Eoi dans les Provinces h. I'eSPet de recueillir ces renseigne- ments, mais je regrette de devoir ajouter que les donnees qu'a obtenues mon coUegue ne sont pas de nature a satisfaire au d^sir du Gouvernement de Sa Majest6 Britannique. D^ja depuis quelque temps differentes demandes du meme genre avaient ete adressees au Ministre de rinterieur, mais les industriels, k qui on a dii s'adresser pour obtenir les informations d^siries, refusent pour la plupart de les fournir, se figurant qu'il y va de leur inter^t de garder le secret sur ce qui se passe dans leurs etablissements ; ou bien, s'ils veulent bien promettre de donner des renseignements, ces promesses ne sont gen^- ralement que mal, si non point, execut^es. Par consequent il m'est impossible, M. le Vice- Amiral, de vous faire parvenir une reponse precise a la demande de votre Gouvernement, puisque les rares don- nees qu'a pu se procurer le Ministre de I'lnterieur sont trop incompletes pour etablir une statistique exacte des fileries et tisseranderies Neerlandaises. Toutefois, vous trouverez ci-joint les pieces relatives k cette question qui ont ete re9ues au Departement de I'lnterieur, avec pri^re de bien vouloir me les retourner apres qu'il en aura &i€ pris connaissance. VeuUlez agreer, &c. (Sign6) L. GEEICKE. 236 NETHERLANDS, Inclosure 2. Reports received from various Provinces in the Netherlands. PKOVINCE OF FRIESLAND. (Translation.) Leeuwarden, January 17, 1873. I have only received reports from a sixth part of the Communes in this Province respecting the existing spin- ning and weaving factories. Although they may not belong entirely to the class of establishments referred to in your Excellency's despatch of November 23, 1872, I have thought it right, even should -they be superfluous, to enclose to your Excellency herewith, in copy, aU the reports I have received as they are. (Signed) Van PAJi^HOYS, Commissary of the King in the Province of Friesland. His Excellency the Minister of the Interior. Hurling en, January 4, 1 873.- In accordance with the instructions contained in your despatch of the 25th of November, 1872, we have laid before the Directors of the Sack Linen Factory here the questions contained in your above-mentioned despatch. In reply, we have the honour to bring to your know- ledge the Eeport we have thereupon received and which is copied below. HarUngen, December 20, 1 872. In accordance with the request contained in your note of the 30th of November last, I have the honour to report to you that the exceptional character of our factory rnakes it uncommonly difficult to answer the questions put by you, and makes these answers entirely useless for statistics. The hours of labour at our factory are regulated according to the amount of work. When there is much to do, work begins earlier and is continued by lamplight in the evening, whereas in the summer work is sometimes only carried on for a few hours a day. It is just the same with regard to wages, and the pay- NETHERLANDS. 237 ment usually takes place by piece, and, occasionally, when there is much work, a little more is paid than at ordinary times. The hours of labour, therefore, vary from a maximum of twelve hours to a minimum of six ; whereas the highest wages wiU amount to about 8 fl., and the lowest to about Ifl. 50 c. Question C is, as far as our factory is concerned, quite unanswerable. In the name of the Directors of the Sack Linen Factory at Harlingen, (Signed) J. E. BAIifGA, Bookkeeper Director. The Communal Authorities of Harlingen. (Signed) W. 0. F. Van HEEMSTEA, Burgomaster. P. GEETDAIirUS GOSLmGS. Hindeloopen, December 3, 1872. With reference to your letter of the 25th November last, we have the honour to report to you that a hemp- spinning factory exists in this Commune, in which the work is for the most part done by women and children. The number of hours of labour amounts to twelve per day during the summer months, and eight per day during the winter. The wages are regulated according to the amount of hemp which is spun, and is calculated at the rate of 9 c. the Idlog. During the year 1871, 15,546 kilog. of hemp were spun into yarn, whilst in comparison to previous years, and also as far as one can judge, to the current year, no increase of produce can be traced. The Communal Authorities of Hindeloopen, (Signed) IS. WENTHOLT. J. ALBERTS, Secretary. Wolnega, December 3, 1872. In obedience to the instruction contained in your letter of the 25th of lifovember last, I have the honour to report to you that in this Commune there are no spinning and weaving factories of the nature referred to ; there are only a few linen weaving factories here, most of which are 238 NETHERLANDS. without labourers, and but one single one having a perma- nent labourer. (Signed) J. SICKENGA, Burgomaster of Weststellingswerf. Ternaard, December 7, 1872. In reply to your letter of the 25th of November, 1872, we have the honour to report to you that there is in this Commune one weaving factory, in which two persons work for ten hours a day each. Their wages are 75 c. a day, and one cannot say that the produce of this weaving factory either increases or decreases. There is no spinning factory in this Commune. For the Burgomaster and Magistrates of "Westdon- gersdeel, (Signed) J. KLAASESY. (Countersigned) R. J. Heeken, Secretary. Sneek, December 6, 1872. In accordance with the request contained in your letter of the 25th of ^November last, we have the honour to report to you the following : — There are no spinning factories to be found in this Commune. 2? either do weaving establishments in the sense of factories, in which the work is performed by a body of labourers, exist here. One manufacturer only has work performed at home by a certain number of hired labourers. One seldom finds more than three together. There is one more of them who works with the assistance of a few servants, partly on his own account and partly for the manufacturer above mentioned. The wages are in all cases calculated according to the labour performed ; con- sequently it is difficult to state the number of hours of labour and rate of wages. While some only earn 2 fl. 50 c. a week, others gain as much as 6fl. This work is not generally carried on by the most powerful men ; most of them must, while their wives go out to work, look after their household affairs or carry on a small trade. In consequence of the competition of IsTorth Brabant, the produce rather decreases than increases. For the Burgomaster and Magistrates of Sneek, (Signed) HAMERSTER DYKSTRA. (Countersigned) H. Tennema, Secretary. nktherlanCs. 239 Dokkum, January 9, 1873. In accordance with the request contained in your letter of the ith of December last, we have hereby the honour to inform you, first, that in 'the factory of our community, where during twenty weeks in the year, twenty, thirty, or at the most, forty people are at work, which number increases or decreases according to the circumstances of the time, the hours of labour are from 8 a.m." to 1*2 noon, and from 1 pjvi,, to 7p.m, ; secondly, that the wages per week are as follows : — Fl. c. Fl. c. For weavers . , . . . . 4 00 to 5 00 For spiuners or spinsters . . . . 2 50 3 00 that it formerly produced principally goods of coarse cotton, and now chiefly flax bale linen. We have thought it right to give you these particulars, although we believe that the questions asked by the Minis- ter of thp Interior little concern us ; this, however, is not an industrial undertaking, but merely an arrangement for prevention of poverty. In the name of the Society for providing work to the needy at Dokkum, (Signed) T. FOCKEMA, Secretary. FROYIEGE OF GROMNGEN. (Translation.) Groningen, December 11, 1872. With reference to your Excellency's letter of the 22nd of November last, I have the honour to transmit to your Excellency herewith a Return, containing particulars respecting the spinning and weaving factories in this province. In that Return, among other things, the hours of labour and wages are stated, in so far as information can be obtained on that subject. IS^othing can be stated respecting the increase of pro- duce in the spinning and weaving factories, while the condition of many of those trades is unfavourable. Among these, however, the machine flax spinning factory at Groningen must not be included, as it is well known that that factory is in a very prosperous condition. No fur- ther particulars can be given respecting that factory, as [353[ K 240 NETHERLANDS. the direction thereof has made difficulties ahout supplying the required iijformation. (Signed) V. HEIDElSr, , Commissary of the King in the Province of Groningen. His Excellency the Minister of the Interior. NETHERLANDS. 241 O © O .a o .a (B O 03 .a fl fl ■ i-H Ph OQ I 6D a id •^ o CD tn ^Cs 6d ■I o o GQ o •■i =2 PI 6D 1=1 •I— ( id ■s -1-=' ei o o 15 s.a H » 9 bD •B .a K(^ •|-c go ■^ I ■i-s CS.2 ^,3 ©■k ops I * P-S^ 3 EC ^ u o 5 .a J3 • • ^^ra as :bis CDpf-.t> oooo 00 to usto-^ e' t . . O I E : • --g >T3 P..3 II ^ ^: : : iMM: I-:: : : ■p. •ri ^ s 5h o ...Jsg^l •S.1IJ0JJBJ; Siiuua^ • : • •:::;;;■ = !: : 1 •sauojoM Ssmuidg = 1 : ::::=;: : :cso» ; ; : 1 - 1 ■u 'Si 11 ^' ■ ■ ■■ ::;::•;:::• : : s ■ • ; Mi::-;:::: ■ \ ll s; ■ ■ ■ :::::::;;■: : I s : w : :;::«: : :t— • : : : •Baiio^asj ainnuids •- : ; ;=:••:!•::= ; -1" JO jaquiTifiT eg -

) „ 9 {16&.) Men.. .. .. 5 (8s. Ad.) „ 20 (,lLl3s, 4 NETHERLANDS. 245 And that the production in the above-mentioned factories, has, in the last years, not increased. The Mayor of Ambt-Almelo, (Signed) H. I. KI.OMENBAE. The Lord-Lieiltenant of the Province of Overyssel. Delden, December 5, 1872. In compliance with tlie contents of your Excellency's communication dated !N^ovember 25th last, 3rd section, I have the honour to inform you that there is in this district ("gemeente") a weaving factory worked by steam; the working hours in the summer average 11 hours, in the winter 10 hours; the production, although fluctuating according to the demand, taken on the whole remains stationary, and the amount of wages, according to the number of working hours and the skill more or less of the workmen, varies between 60 c. (Is.) and 1 g. 10 c. (Is. lOd.) per day. The Mayor of Delden, (Signed) J. G. J. van ES"KEENS. TAe Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Overyssel. Deventer, December 11, 1872. In answer to your Excellency's communication of !N^ovember 25th, 3rd section, I have the honour to inform your Excellency that in this district there is only one weaving factory, viz., the steam cotton weaving factory of Messrs. Ankernnit and Co. The working hours amount to from 10 to 12 per day. The wages for adults vary from 5 g. (85. 4d.) to 10 g. (16s. 8d.), and for children between 12 and 18 years old from 1 g. 50 c. (2s. Qd.) to 6 g. (10s.) per week, whilst the production, with the exception of trifling articles, since the establishment of the factory, has remained stationary. There are no spinning factories in the district. The Mayor of Deventer, (Signed) W. R. van MAELE. The Lord-Lieutenant of Overyssel. 246 NETHERLANDS. Wierden, December 16, 1872. In reply to your Excellency's communication of liirovember 25 last, Srd section, relating to Eeturns of the hours of work, the amount of wages, and the increase of production, I have the honour to inform your Excellency that immediately on receipt of the above-mentioned com- munication, application was made to the Directors of the Steam Weaving Factories, and when no answer was returned, that I again applied to the Directors above- named for the information required ; the answer was, that they would send the Report. • It appears to me that the Directors are disinclined to furnish the information. The Mayor of Wierden, (Signed) PUTFAM CRAMEE. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Overyssel, ZwoUe. Haakshergen, December 10, 1872. In reply to your Excellency's communication of E^ovember 26 last, 3rd section, I have the honour to inform your Excellency that Messrs. D. Jordaan and Sons, the only proprietors of a steam weaving factory in the district, have written to say — 1. That the average number of working hours in their factory is fixed at eleven hours per day ; 2. That the average wages amount to 4g. (6s. 8d.) per week ; and, 3. That the production is stationary, and in the last years can be looked upon as neither to have increased nor diminished. The Mayor of Haakshergen, (Signed) ATEl^LAKET. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Overyssel. Lonneker, December 20, 1872. In compliance with the decree of November 25 last, 3rd section, I have the honour to inform your Excellency that the working hours, as a rule, are ten and a half per day in winter, viz., from 8 till 12 A.M., and from 1 till NETHERLANDS. 247. 8 p.tm:. ; there is therefore a resting time from 12 till 1^ and also from 4 till 4^. In summer, twelve hours, viz., from 6 till 1 2, and from 1 till 8, a resting time from 1 2 till 1 2 J, and half an horn- in the afternoon. In spring and autumn the duration is regulated in some degree according to the length of the days. In weaving factories, as a rule, the wages are not higher than 4g. (6s. 8d.), even less, 3 g. 60 c. (6s.) per week. In the spinning factories, as a rule, the highest wages are 9g. (15s.), although there are workmen who earn. 12 g. (11.) to 15 g. {11. 5s.) per week. The assistants, draw hoys ("handlangers") of the spin- ners earn from 3 g. {5s.) to 4 g. (6s. 8d.) The quantity manufactured hoth of woven and spun articles has not decreased. The Mayor of Lonneker. (Signed) STORM tan GRAVESAKDE. His Excellency the Lord-Lieutenant of Overyssel, ZwoUe. Boone, December 9, 1872. In compliance with the communication, 3rd section, of I^ovember 25 last, I have the honour, after having insti- tuted an inquiry, to inform your Excellency — 1. That the working hours in the weaving and spinning factory of Messrs. S. J. Spanjaard here on ordinary work- days are fixed from ten to twelve and a half hours, and on Saturdays at six hours. 2. That the weekly wages amount to — G. c. G. c. For Children up to 14 years . . . 90 (1«. 4d.) up to 2 40 (4*.) Adult weavers . . 4 00 (6«. M.) „ 8 00 (13s. 4d.> „ spinners . . 4 50 (7*. 6d.) „ 12 00 (II.) 3. The production somewhat increases. Whilst according to the information furnished me, the- working hours in the weaving factory of Messrs. J. van Riemsdyk, junior, and Co., are fixed at an average of 248 NETHERLANDS. twelve hours, and the weekly wages at 4 g. (65. Sd.), the increase of production is somewhat greater. The Mayor of Boone, (Signed) J. J. van CLEEFF. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Overyssel. Enschede, December 6, 1872. In answer to your Excellency's communication of November 25 last, 5rd section (Industry,), I have the honour to make the following Eeport : — 1. The working hours in the spinning and weaving factories here are on an average eleven hours in the summer, and ten hours in the winter per day. 2. The wages are in general tolerably high, amount- ing, taken aU together, in the spinning factories to 10 g. (16s. 8d.), and in the weaving fkctories to 6 g. (10s.) per week. 3. The production goes on regularly, and gradually increases ; but it is difficult to express it in figures, as the necessary data are not easily obtained. The Mayor of- Enschede, (Signed) SPEENGER van EYK. The Lord-Lieutenantx>f the Province of Overyssel.- Oldenzaal, Discember 2, 1872. In accordance with the;eomm'Uitication of your Excd:- lency, dated Sovember 25 last, 3rd Section, in which a Return is required of the number of working hours, the amountiof wages, and the increase of production in the weaving and spinning factories in this district, I have the honour to inform you that — 1. The number of working hours in the weaving factories is' eleven, and in the spinning factories twelve hours per day. 2. In the weaving factories wages amount to — Per week. Per week. For Workmen above 16 G. c. G. c. yeajs'^of'age .. 3 60 (5s. 10 o ■i o ■a i i o 1. ■i a c. s. d. 55 = 11 60 1 s c. «. d. 70 = 1 2 75 1 3 65 1 1 DO 1^ 1 (0 O Si" tl (» (0 Q Steam Jute Spinning Factory of Messrs. D. and J. H. ter Horst. Steam and Manual Jute Sack Weaving Fac- tory for coffee, rice, &c., of that firm Filance Weaving, of J. S. Fiesveld. NETHERLANDS. ^^^ Vriezenveen, November 28, 1872. In answer to your Excellency's communication of the 25tli of this month, 3rd section, containing a request for some information, for the benefit of the British Govern- ment, relating to the weaving factory established in this district, 1 have the honour to inform you that the working hours amount in the week to 63 ; that the wages amount to 450 g. ; and that the production, as compared with former years, shows an increase. There are no spinning factories in this district. The Mayor of Yriezenveen, (Signed) VILLINT. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Overyssel. PEOYINCE OF GUELDEELA:brD. (Translation.) Arnhem, December 21, 1872- In reply to your letter of the 22nd of November last, 1 have the honour to transmit herewith to your Excel- lency the account asked for therein respecting the hours of labour, wages, and increase of produce in the spinning and weaving factories situated in Guelderland. In the Comiaunes of Nykerk, I^ymegen, and Olde- broek, where such factories formerly existed, as you will perceive by my Beport they now no longer exist. (Signed) Ym LIMBUEG STIEUM, The Councillor of State and Commissary of the King in the Province of Guelderland. His Excellency the Minister of the Interior. Spinning and "Weaving Factories. Hours of Labour. Per day. Aalten — Steam spinning and weaving factory . . 11 Steam weaving and dyeing factory . . 10 Eibergen — Weaving factory . . . . . 10 Neede — Steam weaving factory . . . . 10 Winters wijk — Steam weaving factory . . . 10 Steam weaving factory . ..10 :254 NETHERLANDS, Rate of Wages. Aalten— Steam spinning and weaving faotoiy, from 40 c. to 2 fl. per day. Steam weaving and dyeing factor)', from 20 c. to 80 c. per day. Eibergen — Weaving factory, from 45 c. to 50 c. per piece of calicot, so called, 6 quarters. Neede — Steam weaving factory, average rate of wages 4 fl. 50 c. per week. Winterswijk — Steam weaving factory, from 60 c. to 1 fl. per day. Steam -weaving factory, from 3 fl. 60 c. to 5 fl. a day. Increase of Produce. Aalten — Steam spinning and weaving factory Steam weaving and dyeing factory Eibergen — Weaving factory . Neede — Steam weaving factory Winterswijk — Steam weaving factory, Not increasing. Increasing. Not increasing. Stationary. Increasing. Steam weaving factory . . , Stationary. peovi:nce of utrecht. Utrecht, December 14, 1872. In answer to your Excellency's communication dated the 23rd of this month, section 12, I have the honour herewith to transmit to your Excellency the Eeports referring to the weaving and spinning factories in the districts of Utrecht, Amersfoort, Rhenen, Veenendaal, and Zeist, with the remark that factories of that descrip- tion do not exist in the other districts of this province. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Utrecht, (Signed) Van DOORE". His Excellency the Minister of Home Affairs. Veenendaal, December 7, 1872. In answer to the Circular dated November 26th, 1872, we have the honour to inform your Excellency — That in every one of the weaving and spinning factories in this district, the working hours are seventy- two per week. That wages amount — Per week. G. c. Per week. G. c. For Men . . .. 5 00 (8*. 4d.) to 5 50 (9s. 2d.) Women . .. 3 50 (5*. lOrf.) 4 00 (6s. 8d.) Boys Girls . , . . 1 00 (u. 8rf.) 2 50 (4s. 2d.) .. 1 50 (2«. 6d.) 2 00 (3s. 4rf.) NETHERLANDS. 255 That in the Veeiiendaal steam spinning and weaving factory, and in the factory of Messrs. Hendrick van de Poll and Son, the production constantly increases, as appears from the certificates furnished ; that by the Directors of the Veenendaal steam spinning and weaving factory, in 1871, were seat out 228,727 pieces of cotton and linen goods, weighing together 747,335 kilog., with a length of 5,629,367 metres. And in the eleven last months of 1872, 245,950 pieces of cotton and linen goods, weighing together 861,635 kilog., with a length of 6,289,875 metres. And by Messrs. Hendrik van de Poll and Son, in 1871, 9,500 pieces of cotton and linen goods, weighing together 23,775 kilog., with a length of 213,750 metres. And in the eleven last months of 1872, 22,684 pieces of cotton and linen goods, weighing together 69,925 kilog., with a length of 643,140 metres. It is, however, to be observed that in 1871 this factory did not work much. The Eeturns which we requested the directors of these factories to make of manufactured goods sent out without certificates of origin have not yet been forwarded to us. In the factory of Widow D. S. van Schuppen and Son, there are annually manufactured more or less than 150,000 kilog. of worsted. The manager of this firm declares that the production during the last years has remained stationary. Mayor and Aldermen of Veenendaa, The Mayor, (Signed) H. GEUNDER POEL. The Secretary, (Signed) J. KEI^KEDY. His Excellency the Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Utrecht. Utrecht, December 9, 1872. lu your Circular of l^ovember 26th last, we are invited to send to your Excellency an authentic, and as complete as possible, Return of the number of working hours, the amount of wages, as well as the increase of production in the weaving and spinning factories of this district. We thought it the best course, in reference to this subject, to ask for the opinions of the Chamber of [353] s 256 NETHERLANDS. Commerce here, which has enabled us to transmit to your Excellency the following information : — In this city there are only two factories to be taken into account in replying to your Circular, viz., the factory of M. Plasberg, called the Firm Amelung, where candle^ wicks are chiefly manufactured, but which is not in a Nourishing state as a rule. From ten to twelve persons, adults and boys, are employed ; in the winter eight hours, and in: the summer ten hours per day. Adults are paid by tbe piece, and boys can earn from 80 c. ( 1 s. 4d.) to 1 g. 50 c. (2s. 6d.) per week. The other factory is that of M. C. van Wyk, in the Boterstraat, in which hose for fire-engines, tape for sun- blinds, cord for picture hanging, lamp cotton, and such like articles, are manufactured. In this factory from ten to twelve adults and boys are employed, on an average ten and a-half hours per day. The foreman receives 12 g. (11.) per week, the adults earn from 6 g. (10s.) to 8 g. (13s. 4:d.), and the boys from 1 g. (Is. 3d.) to 5 g. (8s. 4d) per week. This factory is in a tolerably flourishing state. Mayor and Aldermen of the District of Utrecht, The Mayor, (Signed) W. B. BOER. The Secretary, (Signed) W. H. de WATTEVILLE. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Utrecht, Amersfoort, December 3, 1872.. In answer to your Circular of !N"ovember 26th last, we have the honour to inform your Excellency that in the weaving and spinning factories here during the summer months the working hours are from twelve to fourteen, and during the winter months from ten to twelve ; that the wages amount, on an average — Per week. Per week. G. c. G. c. For Men . . . . 4 75 (7^. 11<^.) to 6 50 (10«. 10^,) Women .. 2 76 (4s. Id.) 3 00 (5^.)^ Children .. 1 25 {2s. Id.) 4 00 (6*. 8d.) NETHERLANDS. 257 per week ; and finally, that the production in weaving and spinning is increasing. The Mayor and Aldermen of Amersfoort, The Mayor, (Signed) A. G. NICUS. The Secretary, (Signed) W. H. LEHEER. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Utrecht. Zeist, December 5, 1872. In answer to your Circular of November 26th last (Statistics), we have the honour to inform your Excellency that in this district there is a factory for linen and cotton, tape and bootlaces,— that of Messrs. C/.W. Anton and Co., — in which during the summer the working hours are eleven, and in the winter ten hours per day ; the wages are — Per week. Per n-eek. G. c. G. c. For Boys from 13 to 15 . . 1 00 {Is. 8d.) to 3 00 (5«.) Lads from 15 to 18 . . 3 00 (5s.) 5 00 (8s. 4d.) Men .. ..6 00 (10s.) 9 00 (15s.) Mayor and Aldermen of Zeist, (Signed) W. K. HUGO COPES. Secretary, (Signed) P. BEEFLICK. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Utrecht. Rhenen, December 6, 1872. In answer to your Excellency's Circular of November 26th last, we have the honour to inform your Excellency that in the single factory here for weaving and spinning (carpets, floorcloths, and sacking) the number of working hours amounts on an average to 72 per week. The amount of wages is : — Per week. Per week. G. c. G. c. For Weavers . . . . 5 40 (9s.) to 9 00 (15s.) Spimiers . . . . 1 00 (Is. 8^^.) 3 00 (5s.) S 2 258 NETHERLANDS. Also that the factory began to work in the year 1870 with twenty-nine workmen, which number has increased to forty-nine, by whom goods are manufactured to about the value of 13,000 g. per year. Mayor and Aldermen of Rhenen, (Signed) a. S. ROGHAW. Secretary, (Signed) W. A. SANDBEIUX. The Lord-Lieutenant of the Province of Utrecht. PROVmCE OF :N0RTH HOLLAND. (Translation.) Haarlem, February 11, 1873. With reference to your Excellency's letter of November 22, 1872, in which information is requested respecting the hours of labour, wages, and increase of produce in the spinning and weaving factories in this country, I have the honour, in so far as this province is concerned, to bring the following information to your Excellency's notice. In this province there are few establishments of that kind deserving of notice. The principal ones are the steam factory for spinning and weaving cotton goods at Hilversum and the cotton weaving factory at Haarlem. The proprietor of the latter, M. Previnaire, has, however, thought fit not to give any answer to the request for information. Besides the above-mentioned steam spinning factory at Hilversum, information has been received from fourteen carpet manufactories and three factories of woollen and cotton goods and moltons at that place ; from the manu- factories of hair floor-cloths at Laren, which, according to a Return sent in last year, are three in number ; from one weaving factory of bale goods at Naarden ; from a spin- ning factory at Zaandam, which belongs to the Society for the Prev.ention of Poverty ; " For local assistance" ("tot plaatselyknut") ; from a machine yarn spinning factory at Krammenie ; and from the weavers who work for the sail- cloth factory at that place ; and from a gauze (" builgaas ") weaving factory, and one of tape, both at Haarlem. Some of these establishments are not properly called manufactories, whereas the labourers work at home. This, NETHERLANDS. 259 for instance, is the case at most of the manufactories in Gooiland and at the sail-cloth factory at Krammenie. The following are the Returns received : — Number of Hours of Labour. Hilversum — Steam spinning factory, 5 da3's of 12 hours a day, and 1 day of 6^ hours. Carpet manufactory, men and boys, 8 to 10 hours a day (in one manufactory 5-^ days at 12 hours a day) ; women, of whom there are but few, 4 days at 10 hours a day. Manufactory of moltons, from 8 to 10 hours a day. Laren — Manufactory of hair floorcloths, 13 J hours a day. Naarden — Weaving factory of bale goods, from 12 to 15 hours. Zaandam — Spinning factory, 12 hours a day. Krammenie — Machine yarn spinning factory, 14 houi's. The weavers who work at home are paid according to the amount of work they perform. Haarlem — Gauze ("builgaas") weaving factory. Uncertain, as the labourers work at home. Tape- weaving factory, 12 hours a day. Rate of Wages. Per week. Hilversum — Steam spinning factory — Fiorius. Weavers .. .. . . 8 to 10 Spinners .. .. ..11 14 Boys under 16.. .. •■If 5 Women . . . . . , 5 8 Girls under 16.. .. • • l^ 4 Carpet manufactories — FI. c. Men — Average salary . . . , 7 00 Minimum . . . . 2 CO Maximum .. .. 10 00 Boys — Average salary . . . , 1 50 Minimum . . . . 85 Maximum . . . . 3 00 Moltons manufactory — Average rate of wages . . . . 5 00 Minimum . . . . . , 3 00 Maximum . . . . . , 6 00 Laren — Hair floorcloth manufactory — Weavers . . . . . . , , 5 00 Spinners . . . . . . . . 3 00 Naarden — Bale goods factory — Men .. .. ,. 6 00 to 9 00 Boys and girls . . . . 2 00 3 00 Zaandam — Spinning f^ictory, ^ cents for i kilog. of labour performed. Krommenie — Machine yarn spinning factory, 1 fl. 10 c. per week. The weavers who work at home from 4 to 7 days receive from 5 to 8 florins per week. 260 NETHERLANDS. Haarlem — Gauze factory — Fl. e. Fl. c. Weavers . .', per day 1 00 to 1 6 Soakers. . . . „ 10 70 Kibbon-weaving factory, from 4 to 12 florins per week. Increase of Produce. Hilversum — Increase at the steam spinning factory as follows :— 1869 . . 1870 .. 1871 .. 1872 (to December 6) Kilog. of Yarns. 124,836 194,712 218,240 324,312 Pieces of Woven Goods. 47,732 83,879 83,705 124,761 Carpet factory. The most stationary; some few have increased in a greater or less degree. Manufactories of moltons. Two are stationary, and one has rather decreased in consequence of foreign and home competition. Laren— The hair floorcloth manufoctories are improving. Naarden — ^The weaving factory of bale goods is considerably in- creasing in produce. Zaandam — The spinning factory is decreasing in produce, as higher wages are paid elsewhere. Krommenie — With regard to the machine yarn spinning factory, it cannot be positively stated, whereas the spun yams are principally used for the sail-cloth manufactories there. The sail-cloth factories are decreasing in produce. Haarlem — The manufactory of bale goods is increasing in pro- duce; the ribbon weaving factory is in some measure decreasing, in consequence of competi- tion at home and abroad. (Signed) ROELL, Commissary of the King in the Province of North Holland. His Excellency the Minister of the Interior. PROYIFCE OF SOUTH HOLLAND. (Translation.) The Hague, January 11, 1873. I have the honour to transmit to your Excellency a Return, in \yhich the various information desired in your letter of the 22nd of lifovember is given, respecting the spinning and weaving factories which exist m this Province. NETHERLANDS. 261 I regret that I should not have been able to communi- cate it before this, as it had to be received by me through the intervention of the Communal Authorities, who in their turn had to obtain it from the manufacturers, who were slow in the transmission thereof. According to a Report received on the 8th instant from the burgomaster and municipal authorities at Leyden, information from several of the factories, besides those mentioned in the inclosed Return, has not been received at all. (Signed) FOCK, Commissary of the King in the Province of South Holland. His Excellency the Minister of the Interior. 262 NETHERLANDS. I O o o o t> o u Ph -(J 03 03 •a o - be &0 -4-3 EH -a .9 !3 S 13 -H i.r " a. • ■§ -^ S o g - CO tj . w^ a t" aj m ■" — s nj ,0 ^ ^ 9 S a =* o • ., 2 " S fe ■» -S i s g s.g m ca o e "-t ^ i .H bo . 9 a o u H^^^ &^ s- .2 a W S " 'ffi £ A" i ° ^ PS o u g g ^J a £ S S . « a . t, «« •2 =-■ ^ aj ^ -,43 ^ ^ sag n t-i B ^-^l - qg f3 (R sp --, O W o " ,-H rH N ^ 03 ?B Srt «fl q3 03 •^ -^ CO ^ ^ fi ffo m ca ^ ■" OS ■ q=l 5^ £ OJ & . ^ • Si'' S3 P 9^ ■" s .2 g -S 1'^ ^ ^ S5 si .8 a g u g to !>, FhFQ •^ o i I"' o _, o pqpCS S u u CD eu ■&,'S< c3 OS w S r g g §- -^ 3 O oa O CO o a " »;. TJ o !»,a S " oji5'« 5,,a S « fe. «J 01 £ • a ^ « J? " !- o " £ 7, S « a S .S 0) (u o o 03 "±3 '.M .3 ^ bo bo ^ a fc-'S^fr • ^ S: (U pH O.S 6 5 Ed bo € -S -2 si S, ,-1 (M .a >. § E-l s .a 5 rt " >» m ^ jj C * .=^ "^ bp ^ a ■S >> a< b 03 o 0_«_« M«£3 IM r-t i-H r-i i-( r-< o «a boS .9.2. (US a « -J 6 ea . 2 * « _a .a 2 1 1 £^ -SI. CO I-H CO ^ • I-H (N S a o o ::: 1 11 90 18 18 13 1 00 86 40 40 727 10 to 11 1,600 160 1 10 66 Tongehe 1 11 8 80 TJden 2 1(1 24 ib "i "e 70 o'eo 0"40 o"30 ■Veghel 1 10 to 11 29 9 1 1 06 47 6 50 040 Waalze 14 10 60 4 12 3 70 40 SO 30 Westerhoven ... S 11 6 1 80 Woensel 2 10 14 "i 86 o"5'o Zeelst 9 10 63 ii is 070 0"40 0"30 ■ In these numbers Eire included tbe weavers who work at Jiome, Spinning Factories. 1 S 1 Kumber of Workmen. Average Wages per Day. Districts. Above 16. Below 16. Above 16. Below 16. M. r. M. F. M. F, M. F. fl. c. fl. c. fl. „. fl. c. Breda 1 16 6 '4 6 () 63 62 38 Doiigen 1 13 17 36 6 30 1 36 1 00 50 65 Eindhoven (wool spinning)... 1 13 33 3 3 1 80 60 40 40 Geffeu (to provide work for tlie poor) 1 10 30 3 V 36 SO 20 ^ fi fio O M 5 CD 00X3 CO kO^ Oi-lO^C ^00 > '%i ^ w P- 4^ i is m o g •1=1 05 §3 "S CO O ^3 CO ^ , O — +3 CD g I/! 03 -1-3 OS (B P^ o3 o •'-I CD OQ •n Gc o '^ 02 -+3 ■ure^ug JB3.I9 JaAo O 00 V« Qfl ^ C^ r-l di sa O t— 1 sawg pajrafi ui SS80Xa •}U90 J9J l-H •^ m in CO 00 »rt rH rH in rH •9981 «! ■"^ CO CD CO TT 00 at o3bj9ay !>. l« rH (M . . eg CO •6981 11 •»>.rH01b»COOO©(0 to »ft O O Tf< CO on>. in 00 ea us !>. o oa -=i< S3JB5S p3»™a at aSBj3AY ffO CO rH (M rH Ol CO CO rH •aS^jgAy ^ejauar) o in 00 . O . i •amM^pg • CS) l>, . ■* Tf< . 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"S o •*** ^ o in U3 N (M o o TT tt* «5 m a °i O me^ug j^aig . to '. o -^ csi C t* !>, O ■* ' is a ui aSBisAy O r-l •6981 HI t; >n in O CO o O Ol Oi i-i N t> 1.1 ^ CD QO iO CO CO O in t- CO QD CO sa^Kjg paimn •mo (MO-* ■— 1 tH OS o to o :S 1. ni sicisAy O -^ 1— 1 rH r-l » s° u >" => »n « CO Ol CO C^ O <>• CO Dl O " t^ r-( (N (N (N ej OS t>. •<*< 00 1-4 ■aSejaAy jBjanag •■*'* ^ CO CO in Tt< (M CO 00 OJ ri Q '-t I-* r^ pH iM pH r-( •si ° s d® ^ o o »n o n " " o CO o o d eo S >" 'aiBMisiaQ fi^ = ' t^ ' I in m I 00 OS 1— ( i-H §3 tJ o o o o o o o o o in > 0) •BraeAiisouaj . : • to o ; nH ; '. : o . to »-H OS CO r-< m O 1-1 ^ rH r-4 i— 1 1 "on CO o o O O to O CO o to CO to J , CO o in O C pH O CO o ■pmisi apoqa • iO rH CO CO t>. CO in CO CO OS in O rH t^ n-t i-H 1— 1 rH I— 1 S) "§§ O r-i O to o !>. o in in (N l> O to 00 (N CO t^ t* go1« •s4^8sni{aBSSEi\[ • to ^ C^J tx »>. CO in in ■<*i 00 tr- •S^ft > O -H (N OJ i-H p— 1 rH 1— ( ^mO -»! -S ^.S c3 'f M . to CO O 00 J>> 111 " tN ■«}* in » a oi«» o ^ (N (N ^ l-H r^ .5 eS o , . • > . ■ ■ I V b 3 1, P,g 1 I g-- i ■ : : : 8 '■'■'•'■ -i O^tO a ■ a -S 60 •S l-l ? X t„^g o a."l as P. ?5 . •a : s » : :'« Q s § £§ ? 1 S g i a -M w Sum Ilia 111 s cd -»2 ^ Q 1 1 ■pi UNITED STATES. 281 I think the average weekly earnings would differ much in hoth countries from this average weekly rate of wage of 5 dol. 56 c. gold in the United States. Moreover some of the rates in Great Britain are too low. The average premium on gold seems in 1869 to have exceeded 25 per cent. A value of 6 dollars currency to the pound sterling would therefore seem to be fair. At this rate, however, the gold values in the above Table should be diminished by nearly 4 per cent, for purposes of compa- rison. The currency rates can be easily converted into sterling by dividing them by 6 and calling the dollars pounds. If 10 per cent., on the average, be deducted from aU in i8?2. the currency rates for 1869, excepting from those of overseers, then the average rates will in sterling be as follow : — Carding and blowing rooms — D. c. £ s. d. Overseer . . .. 18 03 = 3 7 8 Scutcher hand .. 6 68 1 5 H Railway miaders 3 60 13 6 Drawing frame minders 3 83 14 4i Speeder minders 4 87 18 3 Scutcher boy 4 30 16 1* Grinders . . .. 7 85 1 9 H Strippers . . 6 50 1 4 4I Spinning I'ooms — Overseer . . .. 17 50 3 5 71 7| Mule spinners 9 77 1 16 „ backside piecers .. 2 24 8 4f 7| Frame spinners 3 17 11 Dressing rooms — Overseer . . . . 15 27 2 17 3 Second hand .. 10 62 1 18 10 Spoolers . . 4 69 17 2^ Warpers . . 4 04 15 If •• Drawers and twisters .. 4 28 16 oi Dressers . . .. 12 70 2 7 7i Weaving rooms — Overseer . . .. 14 63 2 14 101 Weavers . . 7 40 1 1 9 Drawers-in 5 60 1 1 Other hands — • Foreman . . .. 15 22 2 17 1 Wood workers . . 13 48 2 10 6i Iron workers . . 11 -15 2 2 111 Engineer . . . . 12 06 2 5 2| Labourers . 8 00 1 10 Overseer in cloth room .. 12 18 2 5 7| The following tabular statements of the rates in a in a fine mui. 282 UNITED STATES. fine mill I am enabled by the courtesy of some eminent mannfacturers, to add to tbe foregoing Table : — Carding and blowing rooms- D. c. £ s. d. Overseer . . 18 00 = 376 Second hand 12 00 2 5 Opener boy 4 00 15 First lapper 9 00 1 13 9 Second lapper 5 00 18 9 Grinder . . 10 50 1 19 4i Stripper . . 8 50 1 11 10 J Sweeper boy 2 50 9 4i Helper, oiler, &c. . . 9 00 1 13 9 Girl at railway and drawing . , 4 50 16 lOi „ at second drawing 4 00 15 „ at slubbers 7 50 1 8 11 Girls at intermediate frames . . 7 50 1 8 li „ at fine speeders 8 00 1 10 „ sweeper 2 50 9 4A Spinning rooms — Overseer ... 18 00 3 7 6 Second hand 12 00 2 5 flO 00 1 17 6 *Spinners (mule) . . \ *" to (^12 00 2 5 Back boys . 2 50 9 4i- Sweeper boy 2 50 9 4 Dressing and weaving rooms — Overseer . . 38 00 3 7 6 Second hand 12 00 2 5 ( 5 00 18 9 Girls, spoolers . . t . • to to ( 7 00 1 6 3 „ warper winders 7 00 1 6 3 Men, dresser 15 00 2 6 3 f 9 00 1 13 9 Four loom weavers . . .. < to to 1 [ 12 00 2 5 Helpers . . 8 00 1 10 Oilers .. 6 00 12 6 Smash piecer 6 00 1 2' 6 Trimmer . . 5 00 18 9 Drawer-in . 8 00 1 10 Other hands — Watchman 10 50 1 19 ''h Engineer . . 18 00 3 7 6 Coal wheeler and fireman 8 00 1 10 General helper 9 00 1 13 9 Che spinners are paid 14 mills or 0-63(7. per lb. of mule yar J Range and average of daily rates in 38 mills. The range and average of daily rates of wage in 38- mills in Massachusetts are stated in the following Table :— UNITED STATES. 283 Ran ge. General Average. Carding and blowing rooms — D. c. D. c. D. c. s. d. Overseers. . I 66 to 6 00 1 2 90 10 101 Men 1 13 2 75 ] 55 5 9| Women . . 74 1 20 97 3 7i Young persons Children .. 60 26 1 25 87 74 60 2 91 2 3 Spinning rooms — Overseers. . 1- 75 6 00 2 871 10 9 Men 90 2 75 1 40 5 3 "Women . . 68 1 17 91: 3 6§ Young persons Children . . 57 26 1 00 83| 87 50 3 3 1 101 Dressing room — Overseers,, 1 75 4 25 2 93 10 11 Men 1 31 2 50 1 90 7 H Women . . 75 1 65 1 10 4 li Young persons Weaving rooms — 45 1 47 87 3 1 Overseers. . 2 25 5 25 3 00 11 3 .Men 1 00 2 50 1 75 6 6| Women . . 80 1 50 1 18 4 5 Young persons Cloth rooms — 70 1 88 1 10 4 U Overseers . . ■ 1 07 3 50 2 57 9 n Men ^0 1 GO 1 83 1 40 5 3" Women . . 83i 1 50 1 07 4 Young persons 50 1 23 96 3 7 Eepair shops, &c. — Overseers. . 3 87 4 50 3 25 12 2i Men 1 24 3 00 2 00 7 6 The pay of overseers varies according to size of overseers. room and also somewhat according to locality. The fair average rates seem to be 18 dollars, or 3Z. 7s. 6(i., for first hands, and 12 dollars, or 11. 5s. for second hands. Third hands and section hands would be paid rather less. The following is a tabular statement I have compiled Daily rates s showing the average of daUy rates of wage by department ^^ mins. in 18 mills. [3531 284 UNITED STATES. Average daily i&tes of Wage by Department. "Wages in dyeing and bleaching. Carding and blowing Overseers Men Women . . Children Spinning rooms — Overseers Men Women , , Children Dressing rooms — Overseers Men Women . . Children Weaving rooms — Overseers Men Women . . Children - rooms — D. c. 3 06 1 52 86 52 2 94 1 67 92 52 3 25 1 66 1 12 66 3 13 1 63 1 10 70 l-H P w. D. c. 3 84 1 67 83 50 3 30 1 55 83 43 3 34 1 79 77 47 3 40 1 62 97 45 D. c. 2 97 1 47 75 55 2 97 1 40 78 50 3 05 1 51 1 00 54 3 16 1 61 92 65 Average, D. c. 3 29 1 55 81 62 3 07 1 51 84 48 3 16 1 65 96 66 3 23 1 62 1 00 67 s. d. 12 4 6 9| 2 2| 1 Hi 8 11 5 3 If 1 9| 11 lOA 6 2i 3 U 2 l| 12 \\ 6 1 3 9 2 If All the foregoing Tables and statements represent wages in spinning and weaving mills. It is desirable to to add some rates of wages in otber establishments. In the colouring department of a gingham mill the rates showed 4 dollars, or 155. for the overseer, and 1 dollar to 2 dol. 30 c., or 3s. ^d. to 8s. ^\d., for the other hands. The daily rates in bleaching and dyeing averaged accord- ing to some returns of 1869-70 — For Men . . Women. Children D. e. D. c. s. d. s. d. 2 00 to 3 CO or 6 8 to 10 1 00 3 4 60 66 1 8 2 2^ In one establishment, the average daily wages were : — D. c. D. e. s. d. s. d. Por Men . 1 58 to 2 87 or 5 11 to 7 Women . 1 00 3 9 Young persons , 80 1 21 3 4 ?t Children. 83 3 H UNITED STATES. 285 At Lawrence, the arerage daily pay in print works in print works, was 1 dol. 34 c, or 5s. In another print work in Massachusetts the daily rates were — In Calendar room — D. c. s. d. Overseer . . . , 3 25 = = 12 2i [ 1 00 3 9 Helpers .. to to ( 1 50 5 7i In Drying can room — Overseer 2 50 9 41 f 50 1 lOi Helpers .. < to to (. 1 50 5 7i In Dry sheds — Overseer 2 00 7 6 Helpers 1 50 5 7i In Bleach house — Overseer 3 33 12 6 Helpers 87 3 3 In Colour shop — Overseer 3 50 13 1^ Helpers 1 50 5 ^ In Dye house — Overseer 3 33 12 6 f 87 .. to ( 1 50 3 3 Helpers to 5 7i In Engraving room — Overseer 6 00 18 9 Helpers 2 30 8 n In Printing machine room — Printers 3 50 13 lA- r 50 1 IQi Helpers ..<^ to to 1 1 67 6 3 The packers were paid 2 dollars, or 7*. Qd., the machinists, 3 dol. 50 c, or 13s. l^d., and the labourers from 1 dol. 50 c. to 2 dollars, or 5s. *l^d. to Vs. 6i. In hosiery mills, the daily rates were in the in hosiery Card room . . 1 50 to 2 00 = 5 7^ to 7 6 Spinning room .. 2 15 Knitting room . . 75 1 00 2 9| 3 9 Finishing room. . 50 2 25 1 lo| 8 mills. 0| 5i According to another statement they averaged for — Overseers Finishers — Men General work — Men Women. . "i'oung persons Children . D. c. 2 12 1 33 1 83 1 00 75 50 d. ^ IQi X 2 286 UNITED STATES. In narrow fabric mills. In braid and narrow fabrics tbe daily wage was about 1 to 1^ dollars, or 3s, showed for — For Men "Women Youths 9d. to 4s. Izd. Other statements D. 0. D. c. 1 65 to 2 50 = 15 50 25 94 s. d. -1. 6 2i to 9 4 3| 4 1 10| 3 d. 41 6 In thread miUs. In thread mills the average daily rates were — At Newark, New Jersey, For Men Women . . Young persons Children . . D. c. 1 88 1 07 88 60 Some other statements show — For Men . . Women Young persons Children » . D. c. D. c. 25 to 3 25 81 2 00 65 1 34 20 75 d. o| d. d. H to 12 2i Oi 7 6i 5 9 2 6 4 Box-makers receive, on an average, 2 dol. 33 c, or 8s. 2d., and packers, 1 dol. 58 c, or 5s. \l\d. Messrs. Clark and Co., the thread-makers of Paisley, Scotland, have a mill at Newark, New Jersey. The following schedule was, in the course of the discvission in 1871 respecting the proposed Ten Hour Bill in Massa- chusetts, stated to represent the diflference between wages between Scotland and the United States. Scotland, United States, Per Week. Per ^ Veek. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Mechauins . . 6 50 18 00 3 7 6 Foremen 7 50 20 00 3 15 Assistant 4 00 14 00 2 12 6 First-class operators , , , . 2 50 8 00 1 10 Second-class operators 2 00 6 00 1 2 6 Third-class operators . . 1 50 4 50 16 101 Dyers, foreman 10 00 30 00 5 12 6 „ men.. 5 00 14 00 2 12 6 „ labourer 3 50 9 00 1 17 6 Bleacher.-', foreman 6 00 18 00 3 15 „ workmen , . 4 00 14 00 2 12 6 Engine-tender 6 00 20 00 3 15 Fireman 4 00 12 00 2 5 I do not know at what rate the Scotch wages have been turned into United States' currency, but the dollars representing the Scotch currency seem to be fewer than even those cheap wages would warrant. Moreover, TJNITJED STATES. 237 some of the wages for the United States are given at higher rates than are usually reported. In a comparison between the two countries, the difference in the hours of labour must not be forgotten. The wages in a thread-mill in Massachusetts in 1869 i" Massachu- _ -^ setts. were — In Preparation Spinning Tv^-isting Winding Men. D. c. D. c. s. d. s. f?. 1 25 to 1 75 = = 4 H to 6 6| 1 00 2 OU 3 9 7 6 1 25 2 17 4 H 8 If 1 25 2 25 4 H 8 5i Women. D. c. D. c. s. d. s. J. 75 to 1 17 = = 2 9| to 4 4| 75 1 42 2 9| 5 4 75 1 03 2 9| 3 9 80 1 60 3 6 1 Chixdebn. D. c. D. c. s. d. s. ^. 50 to 67 = = 1 lOi to 2 6 37 75 1 4| 2 H 50 67 1 2 6 67 80 2 61 3 Tn Preparation Spinning Twisting Winding In Preparation Spinning Twisting- Winding Nearly 10 per cent, should be deducted from some of these 1869 rates to find present rates. The following are some daily rates for certain classes Wages m of work, not distinguishing overseers, for Philadelphia ™^™ ^.^g .^ in 1870-71. Philadelphia.' Men. D. c. D. c. s. d. s. d. Spinners, weavers, &c. .. 1 75 to 3 5« = 6 6f to 13 U Skilled . 2 50 4 00 9 4} 15 Younger or less skilled , 1 75 2 25 6 6| 8 H Dyers . . .. 2 00 4 00 7 6 16 Hosiery mills . . . 2 25 3 50 8 5i 13 11 General labourers . 1 60 2 50 5 74 9 4i Loom overseers. . . 3 00 4 00 11 3 15 Printers . 3 00 5 00 11 3 18 9 Weavers . 2 50 5 00 9 4i 18 9 Women. D. c. D. c. *. d. s. d. Braid weavers . , .. 1 00 to 2 00 = 3 9 to 7 6 Cotton weavers.. , 1 50 2 30 5 H 8 n Spoolers . 75 2 00 2 n 7 6 Print works , 1 00 2 50 3 9 9 4i Hosiery mills . . . 50 2 00 1 lOi 7 6 Webbing and tape . 1 00 2 25 3 9 8 5i 288 UNITED STATES. The highest rates are usually those of oyerseers. Some of the lowest rates are returned rather higher than is always the case. I beg to refer the reader for information as to the meaning of all these rates of wage, and as to labour in the cotton manufacture, to the Second Part of my Report on the Cotton and Woollen Manufactures of the United States, division 2, and subdivision/. Rates of wages in the woollen industry. Daily rates. In general. In 22 mills. II. — As regards the Woollen and Worsted Manufactures. Taking Massachusetts, again, as the standard aroujid wliich the other rates of wage vary, I purpose on a similar plan to that adopted for the cotton manufacture, to give the rates of wage for the woollen and worsted manufactures. The average wage per hand per day of 11 hours in the woollen (? and worsted) manufacture in general has been given at — Men Women . . Young persons Children D. 1 1 s. d. 98 68 66 = 6 16 4 3 2 2| 4| 8 6* On another occasion it was stated at — = Men Women , . Young persons Children D. c. 1 57 1 04 83 58 The following averages of daUy rates of wage in certain mills can be cited : — 6 Flannel mills 4 Cassimere mills 4 Cassimere (and various) mili 1 Shawl mill 3 Satinet mills 4 Various mills Men. s. d. 7 6 6 3i 5 8i 6 3 Women. D c. s. a. 1 S3 = 4 7 1 37 4 9 4 0\ 4 a 4 3f 4 4f Young Persons. D. c. 87 94 78 J, i. 8 3 3 6^ 2 11 4 34 3 104 3 7i Children. D. c. 64 ■■ 53 75 67 84 60 8. d. i S 1114 3 9| 2 6i Weekly wages, As regards classes of work and the different depart- hf itir""™'' ments, I first of all reproduce Dr. Young's interesting Table for the United States for 1869. UNITED STATES. 289 opq I ^ g O sL .a o '^ I — I d S' O) o § aS O TO ■aa 03 CD ^ fee's ^ O dj 0) ^ .-e r^ 1^ P. a •puBlSug raio o in M i>- !>. n* 00 !>• O O !>. CO in rH O CO CO rH -.i* rH to CO O *^ r* ?* ^ S9}B5g -0 saSB^vi po m cc 1— 1 CO ^ CO CI !>. 00 '. Cl O CO Is m ss30X3[ 'laao .igj CN r-l i> -* (M T}< r-4 CO ># (M CO . CO O •Z98I mpOTiSaa " !>. o in o O 00 O to !>• O . to -* o li Q o m in o^ in CO to m . ^ O so !>. t^ CO '^ O t>. CO uj s9}Bqg pa^iufi -J 00 O OS (M R rH m Tj( CO to CO CO J>. rH (O CO (M r-l ,! in in CO OS CO t^ cs CO N CO -^ 00 cq o •698t "! saws V^V^a " 00 (N -^ in O O rH !>, Ci CO J>- 00 O rH ni aSEiGAy XE-rauag Q O CO (N to !>. to rH 00 >!H »>i CT! rH rH t^ -^ to r-f * # # .? w^ o in o in o o o o o o o o •eesuB}£ puB *-■ !>. O (N O eg a> o o in in . in o o 'Biioj 'aisaooBi^ -: w . to 00 rH ■^ * * .; o o m o O O t^ !>. C^ O O CS o " CO i-H . in o rH i-< # * * # ,! o o o o in iM cq u^ o in o o , •ejuiSjia ?sa^ " o o in . O !>• t> rH CM O . t^ in o Cs to CO t— I puB BiniSjijy -£ to »n CO -Tj* "^ t* t* CO (M !>. CO CO (J o O O O O o o •praiijUH " o , . . O O O O , . . j>. in (N i> o . o 00 ' ri< * bO .; o o o to CO o o o o o -g •3[J0J(^ M8^ pu« " o o o . , rH CO O in O • in , o i BITI^A|isnUO(J nS'-S ■ ' in 00 O (M . o o o o o o 1 •jfasjaf jsia)<[ !>. (N to CO O O O o CO in Q rt IM t>. in W to CO T-l rH 00 tH !0 .9 T-^ (N rH t-K »' * * # o . .sg o o o o o o o to o o o in 00 o lo o in rH -^ O ^ •}noi}oaiino3 Q ■ ""S 00 CO o CM to '^ o 00 in w rH r-H (M r-H rH # * a- .: o to o o " n^ o o in to (M O O O Oi O to o oo ■ ® rH CO O O O rH O to ■Tf* o ^ •puE[si apoq^ —• O 00 QO to !>. CO cn o to 00 (M «>. 'tJH to o rH rH ^H rH r * * ■«■ # 1 ,; in in o o " r-t c> cft in 00 in in to in o o o o to 00 o^ 00 i-H ea CO rH CO in to •SM9snqoBSSBj\[ — .' oa (>. oi *>. M rH p-i t, '^ o:, o Tji i>« o !>. ^i* !>. T-\ rH ^ ■^ # * * .; o o in o o in o rH o o t>. o m o .•}aota»j^ puE " o o wo O rH O CO O in CO in (^ o ajjUsdraisjj jia^ -: >-< Oi iH in c^ t* eq *>. to !>. to rH ^ t^ in to * * * * ■ O CM 00 O CO CO o CO CO CO in »N cs CO •anrepj " O 1^ to o CO CO in rH r>. CO N CO in CO -: (M Oi r-H 00 W r-l rH rH !>. CO r-C 00 ■<*<-:** O i>» xH !>■ r-K 1-K T^ r-< ' ' ' 2 " ' ■ L 1 a o i-i 1-1 fl • ■ "^ ■ ■ • 1 2 fe • ■ a • • *n3 • • • „' 's 6 1 w ^ g •-H f^^ K^ »-■ t> t* Si S "S.-i^ QJ > m s S d ^^ f2i o -? 1 III o. TS 5 o b m £ o3 5^ 290 UNITED STATES. is •piiiiiSua .laAO sajBjg -n saSuAV ni ssaoxg; -juaa .laj cooOTt*eoc-:aoao ^ T* O CO o en O CO «0 CO ■Z98I "I pnB[gua ^ir*mot>«»-Ht-»jif50 . inr^ in o ■(Oe-Ija?"-!) 6981 ui sa)B5s pa?ran "i>.(M-^o*>.cocoi>. . r-'-o O rH ^ O CO CO -5i< l> O 1-^ '6981 "! SD^t3;g pa^^ri "wOt^rHi-lOOOUD UDr-l CO CO . 00 o 01 CO rH en «5 00 1— 1 .s m s 1 lU f 1 •SESUB^I pUB 'EMOJ 'aiSUODSIjVi^ D. c. 10 50 7 50 10 50 e'oo 2l'00 15 00 18 00 o o rH ■"no P''^ EUBipUI D. c. 11 75 10 50 13 50 9 00 1000 15 00 9 00 11 50 O o , o •BraiSjiA ?sajv\. puB BimSii^ "g . .g Q'° "- •■pTie\iivfi "§.§....§ •3IJ0ji^ Matj puB BiuBAxisnuaj D. c. 7 00 3*50* 9 75 o . o ' OS ■Xas.iaf Ma^ •i>.ooc-in R r-H i-H r-l l-H rH in ft •;noi5oaut[03 .•oooooo oo oo "inirtwa^fSioo .ino mo P rH rH rH rH nH in CO , o •puBisj apoTja .•ooinoooi-'smo oo "■^0»>.if500»>*IM0 oin *CO«DOCltOsOCOOW o<^ P (N rH rH r^ o o fi •s}}asm[OESSBj(j[ .r-^Oin-^OOMtOO OI>» « (N 00 rH CO O l-H to O -* c^ CO -: oit* 00 00 to wra 00 as Oi -^ »n o o CO o OS »>. ■^•aota.iajV P"^ ojiiisduiBH Aiajsi ,'«ooooo oo>ra oio *a>t>.ooo«> ' 00 o OS o «o P r-H rH rH rH o o o in o o •anren ■inoococo oj>.ioo' CO " Jr^ lO CO CO . lO CO C^ O .CO ■ 00 t* (M Ci * TjH O^ O O ' (M O rH Ca rH rH «3 O rH O O CO rH f Dressing and Pinishing— Fullers Dressers or giggers ;. Finialiers Press tenders Drawers Brushers Packers Overseers . . Assistants „. Engine-room, Yard, &c. — Engineers .. Mechanics . . Labourers (watchmen included).. Foreman 2 a I- ^ s l-t o H -§ , r„ s w 14 b * ii u -u . OD d ""^ ■"■§ « l> C4 §^^ •s.s ^ £-5 S 3" 5 rt • O) CO CO 1-7 CM CO CM 00 •ssojS '■e%i6KQ D. c. 843 51 1,400 00 1,376 84 1,859 10 8,285 44 o 00 CO OS 1— t •^Dnpoj^joOOlJ m si^uajBn puB " CO Oi -* O 00 X --< eo ^ CO t^ in CO •}onpMi JO 001$ m siBuatBj^r JO SJEHOQ ,: t^ o CO (M o " O 00 (M O i-H ~: G CO -^ f£> -^ Q ^ -^ CO o 00 OS l-H, !>. nn •pnpojj JO ooij n; SaSB^ JO SJBllOQ e5 O t^ O Oi f* " CO O l-H o CO CO l-H •jonpoj^ ■ JO ijtmoray Dols. 143,136,692 154,692,177 535,487,704 2,701,440,948 841,005,063 CO in oT CO If? CO •siBuajEnj JO ijanoiiiy Dols. 14,418,908 67,850,482 183,543,034 1,529,537,058 707,361,378 o CO CO o" l-H § in CM •saSeji JO ^unoray Dols. 73,438,952 35,689,883 167,118,533 541,078,362 31,734,815 in oT 00 •spuBH JO -o^t i-H -^ ..iH ■.* as o w »o o ^O iO O O iO oC o oo" CO p.r O F-i 00 >o o ^ l-H CO "^p-H OS CO CO ca CM CN? OD a UNITED STATES. ' 313 " Exammation of tliis Table shows tliat the first class of industries, with a reported gross product of 143,000,000 dollars, yields a net product only 5,000,000 dollars less than that of the first class, which has a gross product of 841,000,000 dollars, while the wages paid in the first class exceed those paid in the fifth by 131 per cent. Nothing, perhaps, could set in a stronger light the necessity of considering all statements of manu- facturing production in connection with the value of materials consumed and the cost of labour. Here are two groups of industries, the one reaching the gigantic total of 841,000,000 dollars, th« other aggregating but one-sixth as much ; yet the latter makes a clear addition to the wealth of the country equal to 96 per cent, of the net production of the former, and actually pays more than twice as much in wages. " The calculations which have been added to show the number of dollars' worth of wages and materials separately and combined, in each 100 dollars of product, and also the average value of production, gross and net, to each hand employed, are well worth studying. " It appears that the value of the materials consumed in the several groups of industries range from 10 dol. 7 c. to 84 dol. 10 c. in each 100 dollars of product; that the amount of wages ranges (going, so to speak, in the opposite direction) from 51 dol. 30 c. to 3 dol. 77 o. ia each 100 dollars of product, while the gross product per capita ranges from 843 dol. 51 c. to 88,285 dol. 44 c, and the net product ranges from 758 dol. 54 c. to 1,316 dol. 64 c. The reason for these astonishing differences is not found chiefly in any differences in the quality of labour, or in the more extensive applica- cation of machinery ia one class than in another, but almost wholly in the treatment of this subject of the materials consumed in the successive industries and classes of iadustries. 4. The returns as to capital are the least trustworthy, Returns as to and are acknowledged by tlie Superintendent of Census capital untrust- to be delusive. He also says that " It is- greatly to be '""^ ^' regretted that the census should be encumbered by an inquiry yielding so little, yet provoking so much oppo- sition to the progress of the general work." The aggre- gate of capital invested in manufactures, including the smaller industries in the United States is returned at 314 TJNITEB STATES. Accuracy of cotton and woollen statistics. §2,118,208,769, but it is doubtful that this sum repre- sents one-fourth of the capital actually contributing to the annual gross product of $4,232,325,44.2. 5. The statistics of cotton manufacture and of the woollen manufacture have been most carefully revised, and are more trustworthy and perfect than those of some other manufactures. The following testimony to this fact has been adduced by the Superintendent of Census. With regard to the cotton manufacture the "foUowiag communication from B. 3?. Nourse, Esq., of Boston, a writer of high authority on both the production and the manufacture of cotton, indicates the degree of success attained in the census statistics of the cotton manufacture : — " 'Boston, Beptember 5, 1872. " ' Accept ray thanks for the gratification afforded by an examination of the sheet containing the statistics of the cotton manufacture for the census of 1870. " ' I was surprised as well as gratified to note the results or footings in the census returns, so closely corresponding with the results obtained by our associ- ation for the same year. Obtained through different channels, their agreement is strong proof that both are correct. It is certainly true that, in the item of cotton manufactures, in its subdivisions of the number of spindles, the quantity of cotton consumed, and the weight of the goods produced, this census is substantially, if not exactly, correct, and, from the comparison with our statistics for 1870, as well as from information obtained by persistent demands, repeated until complied with, for exact returns from every mill, it is fair to infer that this portion of the census has the highest attainable accuracy. It is in remarkable contrast with every previous census since the cotton manufacture became one of the important industries of the country. " ' If, in other industries, and other departments of production, the same degree of accuracy has been at- tained as in respect of the cotton manufacture, and the production of cotton (raw) for the year prior to June 30, 1870, then is this census worthy of the confidence of statesmen, political economists, and men of business. (Signed) " ' B. P. NOTJRSE.' " UNITED STATES. 315 " The following, from E. P. Bond, Esq., of Boston, exhibits the result of certain critical tests applied to the same statistics. No one familiar with such investigations can fail to appreciate the singular accuracy which the analysis shows to exist in the census Tables of this industry : — " ' We find the Tables in all essentials corroborated by the Cotton Association returns for 1870, and wonderfully consistent with themselves. Thus, you report 7,132,000 spindles, we 7,114,000. You, 398,000,000 lbs. cotton used, and we 411,000,000. The difference here is ex- plained by the fact that your year included July and August, 1869, when the mills were running short, and ours, the same months of 1870, when they were running full. Lbs. " You report as gross weight of cotton vised . . 398,000,000 Deduct for waste 16 per cent., which, is the allowance made in the Association Report for 1870, and generally accepted by manufac- turers. . . . . . . . . 63,680,000 And the total product would be . . . , 334,320,000 You report, however, a product of . . . . 349,000,000 And there is an apparent excess of . . . . 14,680,000 But, to offset this, there is — Amount of waste included in product 8,000,000 One-half amount of cordage, lines, and twines . . . . . . 2,500,000 One-third amount of batts, wicking, and wadding . . . . . . 4,000,000 14,500,000 Showing an actual discrepancy of (about yws °f '^'^^ P^r cent.) 180,000 lbs." And as regards the statistics of the woollen manu- facture, " George William Bond, Esq., of Boston, an acknowledged authority in respect of the production of wool and the manufacture of woollen goods, writes the Census ofiGlce as follows, under date of July 6, 1872 : — " ' The result of tabulating and analyzing the returns of the census of woollen manufactures is to give me great confidence in the general accuracy of the same. The different parts prove each other. The average capacity of the mills in the several sections is about ['3531 Z 316 UNITED STATES, what I should expect to find it. The consumption of wool and other textile fibers is about two-thirds of the full capacity of the mills, and its accuracy is well borne out by the quantity of goods manufactured.' " Textile Indus- 6. Prom the Table of general statistics of manu- . :, .u .._ £g^(j^^jj.gg "by industricSj for which, as well as the ' ' Remarks on the Tables of manufacturing iadustry," I am indebted to the courtesy of the Acting Superintendent of census, I hare constructed the following Table of manufacturing industries connected with cotton, wool, silk, Hnen, and jute :— tries and their allies. UNITED STATES. 317 . 3 CO iO U3 o to o t^ in 00 !>. !>. 00 CO o?o o in O CO fl sr? -*O0rHi-lr-)t««W0D0O Mc>jM*^t>»omocoi>-o-^oos-*evia>ioo OOOOmi— (f-ti— tl>«if?c0C001C0OI>.'W<0^Q0l>.^H incocoi-HC.iO(N(M'— li>.CONTt.l>»00j-» O to CO (M to to f-i r-H (N cr» CO to a^r-i CO ■>* t-. OS 05 LO CO O) O O O Oi CC^ rH Co" m CO [53 •i i , N CO pa '^ « W"^incoiOi-HQooocqr-teO'^»>'Nasi'-t>.cooooQoco>-i OQffooiosi>-ect^otomococooqtooi>.MOcomo(M cocoincTiTjtCNOieoos'^ffOm'^oDcai— imcocoJ>»eQcooo ' -^ t£? oo t^ iC i>r jpT oT J>r CO ir^ c^ i-T f-T TiT N :o in WC00sl>.*>«iMe0C0OC0c0Q0(NOi>-c0t*« COp-tTf.cOiOp— ICOl— icoocqcviQO (Me*? eo to'cDinto^ in fJ noTmo? 00 CO OD CO "<* t- O* (M m CO o rH (M CJ OS lO !>. ej t* lO CTi tCcTrH Oi Tfi CO ■-H !>. O (M Tt< CO in OD 03 O 00 r-J^ ■^CD 00 O O O in Tt* CO 0» I-H ^ CO O) 00 CD Tji -rr< 00*00 r-T in OD -^ OS t^ rH 00 O OS f-1 o *>. *>-!>. 00 co«cocorHeoeooi>»oooinooooswoai>.t-inci »n*>.inj>-m-*Tt*inoooscoooOQOQoi>.cot— irHi>..— ( O^CM00Q0COOlC100(NTt.Tt.-^(M QOeOCTJNOJI>.COCO wsNc^ i>-oi"^ inino-^1* coTt. «n W 00 QO 00 ■^ CO eo CO gooc cd O 4 O •**< O 3 in Tt< in * m -»>.»>. rco o o s o -^ -* H o CO in ooooo«>iOinFHOOini-)00oocoooosos(M oooi-ii>.oaO-oaoinocoi>»ff>cooc5inincoo-^rH cooN'^i>.oowi>.w»ncoincoNinoinosco»noco oap-(OOQococciTt.04N(MC0c00DOC0 cooominwiNcoincoini— 'Tpi>.a> ^cOC*fcO 'tC of r-TcOFHC? C5 M 00 ■* eo t^ N -^ Ir» o co'irT ■^ t* 00 CfcO ■^(?y'ro' I-H Oi r-l t>.i>.inoieocoooc CO CO I— I -H .p— tCOtOODini-HOOrHOO >*lCOi— lOlOlCOr-li-Jr-leO COOOi— 1 incO>#(M-0-.— icoOS00ts.oscOCs tNini--.CMOOQOcOOSOi— i CD t>. mi— lOi— i-^osincD»-(inc.rHi>.c— I i-l coincoO'cHinooot>.i-HasJ>.coooinoaeo-^oo-H"-rHoooa ■^^coint2'-'C^«'^<=''-'0^t>'Oar-( coQOoa-'** co-^mmcoo^ocoo 00 00 (N 00 >-t 1 ^■2 a p : M a i : i rt : " „ , SP ** .- a S ^^ a 5 . . . 60 « . . S 2 SSfliSOOpHascS h3 S.| OS oj ** M m -rg Mm •:3 &H E-i;?; z 2 Pi t3 « w o 318 UNITED STATES. Position of textiles in aggregate industry. Comparison with past. There is some double counting in this Table, where, for instance, as in clotiiing, many of the materials are the manufactured products of the cotton, woollen, and silk industries. The gross production of these manufacturing indus- tries is nearly 140,000,000Z., or about 18 per cent, of that of all industries, or about 16 per cent, of the corrected aggregate of aU industries. The net pro- duction is nearly 50,000,OOOL, or about 13 per cent, of the corrected aggregate of all industries. The aggregate wages are about 25,000,000/., and about 17 per cent, of the total wages of aU industries, and the aggregate materials are about 90,000,000^., or about 19|^ per cent, of the total materials of all industries. The hands employed in these manufactures are about 21 per. cent, of the total number in all industries, and the power required by them is about 12 per cent, of all the power used in the United States for manufacturing industries. The position, therefore, of the manufactures of which this Report treats, and of their related industries, is one of great importance in the aggregate industry, great and small, of the United States. 7. As the enumeration of industries in the corres- ponding Tables for 1860 and 1850, differ from that adopted in the Tables of 1870, it is not possible to institute any fair comparison of the respective positions in 1860 and 1850 of these same industries, neither is it possible to justly estimate the progress in each decade. So far as there may be a possibility of making any kind of a comparison, it will be made in commenting in the subsequent parts of this Report upon the special statistics of each manufacture, if the time and space allotted to me should admit of making such comparisons. 2. Position of Textile Industry in the Tariff. 8. I cannot do more under this heading than, without comment, to quote the items of the Tariff affecting the raw materials and manufactured products of these in^ dustries : — UNITED STATES. 319 Acid, carbolic, liquid (788) . . „ nitric, yellow and white (32) „ „ not chemically pure (708) . . „ sulphuric, or oil of vitriol (804) , . Acids of every description used for chemical and manufacturing purposes, not otherwise provided for (120) Albumen (708) .. .. _ .. Alum, patent alum, alum substitute, sulphate of alumina, and aluminous cake (232) Aniline dyes and colours, by whatever name known (dec. of March 22, 1870) (687) Annatto, extracts of (808) Aprons, silk (486) . . Bags and cotton bags, and bagging, and all other like manufactures not herein otherwise provided for, except bagging for cotton, composed wholly or in part of flax, hemp, jute, gunny-cloth, gunny bags, or other material (783) Baize, as booking. Balmorals, wool or worsted (614, 775) — Valued at 40 c. or less per lb. Valued above 40 e. and not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. . . Balmorals, if cotton, chief value (470, 774) Balmorals, any other material except wool, worsted, or cotton (470) Barrege (according to material). Bessemer metal, as steel (680). Binding, cotton (481, 774) „ leather (103, 387, 781) „ silk (486) . . „ wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. Blanketing, machine (dec. of March 31, 1870) (615, 775) Blankets (dec. of May 18, 1871) (614, 775)— Valued at 40 c. or less per lb. Valued above 40 c. and not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. . . 10 per cent. 10 per cent. Free. Free. Free. Free. 60 c. per 100 lbs. 50 c. per lb. and 35 per cent. Free. 60 per cent. 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. 'per lb., and 36 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 24 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 24 c. per lb,, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 320 UNITED STATES. Blankets, gentionella, as manufactured of wool (dec. of October 23, 1857). Bobbinet, cotton (481, 774) . . Becking, printed, coloured, or otherwise (620, 775) Bonnets, 6i silk (486). Borax, or tincal, crude (812) . . ,, ' „ refined (234). . Braids, cotton (481, 774) „ sUk (486) . . „ wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. Brimstone, crude (714) „ in rolls or refined (515) Brooms, if bone, horn, ivory, gutta-percha, leather, or metal, chief value (78, 364, 777, 779, 781) Other than above (78, 364) Brushes, if bone, horn, ivory, gutta-percha, leather, or metal, chief value (524, 777, 779, 781) Other than above (524) . . . . Bunting (616, 775) .. Burlaps. See Linens. Canvas. Sise Linens. Canvas or duck for sails (484) . . „ „ if cotton (484, 774) „ floorcloth or oilcloth, foundations of flax, jute, or hemp (783) Caps, leggings, socks, stockings, wove shirts and drawers, and all similar articles made on frames, of what- ever material composed, worn by men, women, or children, not otherwise provided for, except as below {81, 367) „ cotton (81, 367, 480, 774) „ hair (685) „ silk, or silk chief value (dec. of October 19, 1868), (486, 578) „ wool, worsted, or goat's hair, not knit (dec. of October 14, 1865), (618, 775) „ worsted or goat's hair, knit Or made on frames (81, 367, 775) „ wool, knit (613, 775) .. Cards, wool and cotton, part iron (444, 776) „ wool and cotton, part steel (45S, 776) Carpets, Aubusson and Axminster (620, 776) 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 25 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 60 per cent. Free. 10 0. per lb. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 60 per cent. Free. 10 dollars per ton. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 per cent. 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 40 per cent. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 30 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per' lb., and 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 90 per cent, of 45 per cent, per cent, of 50 per cent. UNITED STATES, 321 Carpets, woven whole for rooms (620, 775) „ Brussels, printed on the warp or otherwise (469, 775) „ Brussels, tapestry, printed on the warp or otherwise (620, 775) „ Brussels, wrought by the Jac- quard machine (620, 776) „ felt, classed as drugget (dec. of October 26, 1868), (620, 775) „ hemp or jute (620) . . „ Saxony, Wilton, and Toumay velvet, wrought by the Jac- quard machine (620, 775) „ treble ingrain, three-ply, and worsted chain A^'enetian (620, 775) „ velvet, patent and tapestry, printed on the warp or other- wise (620, 775) „ yarn, Venetian, and two-ply ingrain (620, 775) „ flax, or other material not other- wise provided for (620) „ of wool or cotton, not otherwise provided for (620, 774, 775) Chalk, unmanufactured (715) . . „ all, not otherwise provided for (494) Chemisettes, silk (486) Cloth,' coloured cotton, for bookbinding, (June 16, 1870), (481, 774) „ corset. See Corsets. „ crinoline. See Hair-cloth. „ gunny. See Grunny-cloth. „ hemp, Manilla (Ueg. of 1857, p. 574), (166) „ hair. See Hair-cloth. „ Italian. See Dress Goods. „ woollen. See Manufactures of Wool. Clothing, ready - made, and wearing apparel of every description, and Balmoral skirts and skirt- ing, and goods of similar des- cription, or used for like purposes, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animals, made up or manufactured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer, except Knit Goods (618, 775)- „ if knit. See Knit Goods. „ cotton, chief value (84, 369, 774) 90 per cent, of 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 60 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 28 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 44 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 25 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 8 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 70 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 1 7 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per square yard, and 36 per cent. 90 per cent, of 12 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 40 per cent. per cent, of 40 per cent. Free. 26 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 20 per cent. 90 90 . per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 322 UNITED STATES. Clothing, of silk, or silk chief value, except as above (578) „ ready-made, and wearing apparel of every description, of what- ever material composed, except as above, made up or manu- factured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manu- facturer (84, 369) „ such as articles worn by men, women, or children, of what- ever material composed, made up, or made wholly or in part by hand, not otherwise pro- vided for (72, 360) Coal, anthracite (715) „ bituminous, and shale, 80 lbs. to bushel, and 28 bushel to ton (754) „ all other, 80 lbs. to bushel, and 28 bushel to ton (459) „ slack or culm, such as will pass through a half-inch screen, 80 lbs. to bushel, and 28 bushel to ton (754) „ culm of, other than above (459) . . Coburgs, as manufactures of worsted (dec. of September 21, 1857). Copperas, green vitriol or sulphate of iron (14, 288) Cordage or cables, tarred (483) „ untarred Manilla (483) „ all other untarred (483) Cord, sash, as manufactures of hemp (dec. of November 11, 1869), (484) „ ifcotton(86, 371, 774).. „ and cord and tassels, if silk (486) . . „ if wool, w^orsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. Corsets, or manufactured cloth, woven or made in patterns of such size, shape, and form, or cut in such manner as to be fit for corsets (664) — Valued at 6 dollars per doz. or less. . Valued over 6 dollars per doz. If cotton, chief value (774) . . Cotton bagging or other manufactures, not otherwise herein provided for, suitable for the uses to which cotton bagging is applied, composed in whole or part of hemp, jute, flax, gunny-bags, gunny-cloth, or other material (674. See also 783)— Valued at 7 c. or less per square yard Valued at over 7 c. per square yard If cotton, chief value (774) . . 60 per cent. 35 per cent. 35 per cent. Free. 75 e. per ton. 40 c. per ton. 40 c. per ton. 25 per cent. ^ c. per lb. 3 c. per lb. 2i c. per lb. 3-|c. per lb. 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 2 dollars per dozen. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of the above duties. 2 c. per lb. 3 c. j)er lb. ■90 per cent, of the above duties. UNITED STATES. 323 Cottons (except jeans, denims, drillings, bed tickings, ginghams, plaids, cotton- ades, pantaloon stuffs, and goods of like description), not exceeding 100 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling, and exceeding in weight 5 oz. per square yard (574, 774)— If unbleached . . If bleached If coloured, stained, painted, or printed As above, weighing less than 5 oz. per square yard (dec. of October 28, 1868),.(23, 339, 774)— If unbleached. . If bleached . . If printed, painted, coloured, or stained On finer and lighter goods of like description, not exceeding 200 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling (dec. of Octo- ber 19, 1868), (574, 774)— If unbleached. . .. If bleached . . If coloui-ed, stained, painted, or printed On goods of like description exceeding 200 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling (574, 774)— If unbleached . If bleached . . If coloured, stained, painted, or printed Cottons, viz. : jeans, denims, drilling, bed tickings, ginghams, plaids, cotton- ades, pantaloon stuffs, and goods of like description, or for similar uses, and not exceeding 100 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling, and exceeding 5 oz. to the square yard- (575, 774) — If unbleached . . If bleached 90 per cent, of 5 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 5|- c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 6^ c. per square yard, and 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 21 o. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 3 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 3 J c. per square yard, and 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 5 e. per square yard. 90 per cent of 5^ c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 6^ c. per square yard, and 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 5 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 5^ c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 5^ c. per square yard, and 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 6 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 6|- c. per square yard. 324 UNITED STATES. Cottons, if coloured, stained, painted, or printed On finer or lighter goods of like description, not exceeding 200 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling (dec. of Octo- ber 6, 1869), (576, 774)— If unbleached . . . If bleached . . If coloured, stained, painted, or printed On goods of lighter description, exceed- ing 200 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling (575, 774)— If unbleached . . . . ; If bleached . . If coloured, stained, painted, or printed Provided, that upon all plain woven cotton goods, not included in the foregoing schedule (575,774) — If unbleached, valued at over 16 c. per square yard If bleached, valued at over 20 c. per square yard If coloured, valued at over 25 c. per square yard Jeans, denims, and drillings, valued at over 20 c. per square yard — Unbleached . . All other cotton goods, of every description, the value of which shall exceed 25 c. per square yard Provided further, that no cotton goods having more than 200 threads to the square inch, counting the warp and filling, shall be admitted to a loss rate of duty than is provided for goods which are of that number of threads (575). Cotton, thread of, on spool, containing on each spool not exceeding 100' yards of thread (576, 774) Exceeding 100 yards, for every addi- tional 100 yards on each spool, or fractional part thereof in excess of 100 yards 90 per cent, of 6^ c. per square yard, and 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 6 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 6^ e. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 6| c. per square yard, and 15 per cent. 90 per cent, of 7 c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 7^ c. per square yard. 90 per cent, of 7|- c. per square yard, and 15 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. ■90 per cent, of 6 o. per dozen, and 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 6 c. per dozen, and 35 per cent. UNITED STATES. 325 Cotton thread, yarn, warps, or warp yarn, not wound upon spools, whether single or advanced beyond the condition of single by twisting two or more yarns together, whether on beams or in bundles, skeins, or cops, or in any other form (707, 774)— Valued at not over 40 c. per lb. Valued at over 40 c. and not over 60 c. per lb. Valued at over 60 c. and not over 80 c. per lb. Valued at over 80 c. per lb. Cranks, mill, wrought iron (430, 776) . , Crapes, silk (487) . . . . Decoctions of logwood and other dye- woods (274) Denims. See Cottons. Diaper. See Linens. Dress goods, women's and children's, and real or imitation Italian cloths, com- posed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animals (617, 775) — Valued at not above 20 c. per square yard Valued at above 20 c. per square yard Provided, that on aU goods weighing 4 oz. and over per square yard, the duty shall be Drillings. See Cottons. Drills. See Linens. Druggets, printed, coloured, or otherwise (620, 776) Duck. See Linens. „ cotton (dec. of December 15, 1858), (484, 774) „ sail (484) .. „ „ cotton (484, 774) , . Dye, Tyrian (dec. of July 8, 1861), (166) Dyewoods, extract and decoction of (274) Earth, Fuller's (493, 780) Embroideries, cottons, used as Balmorals (dec. of February 2, 1866), (470, 774) „ cotton and worsted reps (dec. of April 20, 1866). See Manufactm'es of Worsted. 90 per cent, of 10 c. per lb,, and 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per lb., and 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 2 c. per lb. 50 per cent. 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 6 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 8 o. per square yard, and 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb,, and 36 per cent. 90 per cent, of 25 c. per square yard, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 20 per cent. 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 3 dols. per ton. 90 per cent, of 24 c. per lb., and 36 per cent. 326 UNITED STATES. Embroideries, -wool covers (dec. of April 20, 1865), (613, 775) „ part wool, except clothing (613, 775) „ part wool, if clothing (618, 775) Embroideries, manufactures of cotton, linen, worsted or silk, if embroidered or tamboured, in the loom or otherwise, by machinery or with the needle, or other process, not otherwise provided for (100, 385) If cotton, chief value (100, 385, 774) If worsted, part value (100, 385, 775) Emery, manufactured, ground or pul- verized (237) „ ore or rock, not pulverized, not ground (786) Files, file blanks, rasps, and floats, all kinds (454, 776)— Not over 10 inches in length Over 10 inches in length . . Flannels (614, 775)— Valued at 40 c. or less per lb. Valued above 40 c. and not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. Plaid (Reg. of 1857, p. 567), (613, 775) Shirting (dec. of November 16, 1863), (612, 775) Flax, hackled, known as " dress-line " (669) „ not hackled, or dressed (669) „ straw of (668). , „ tow of (671) .. „ manufactures of. See Manufactures Flocks, mungo, shoddy, or waste (37, 275) „ same if wool (612^, 775) „ pulverized wool (Reg. of 1857, p. 567), (612i 775) Fringes, silk (486) . . „ cotton, chief value (481, 774) .. „ wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. „ other (according to material). 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. j)er lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 40 per cent. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 1 c. per lb. 6 dols. per ton. 90 per cent, of 10 c. per lb., and 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 6 c. per lb., and 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb, and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb. and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. and 35 per cent. 90 , " -- per cent. 90 . - -- per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 ( per lb., per lb., per lb., per lb., per lb,, ) per cent, of 50 c. and 35 per cent. ) per cent, of 50 and 35 per cent. ) per cent, of 5C and 35 per cent. 40 dols. per ton. 20 dols. per ton. 5 dols. per ton. 10 dols. per ton. 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 12 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 12 c. per lb. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. ■ONITED STATES. 327 Fuller's eartli (493, 780) Galloons, cotton (86, 371, 774). „ metal. See Trimmings. silk (486) . . „ wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. Gauze, Chamberg (dec. of February 16, 1867), (485) Gimps, cotton (86, 371, 774) . , „ silk (486) .. ,, wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. „ other (according to material). Ginghams. See Cottons (dec. of Octo- ber 6, 1869). Gloves, cotton, lined with wool waste (dec. of December 31, 1868), (613, 775) „ cotton (81, 367, 774) . . „ cotton, edged at the wrist with a small stripe or stripes of coloured worsted yarn, knit in for the purpose of ornament (dec. of January 29, 1871), (81, 367, 774) „ hair (685) . . „ kid, or other leather (543, 781). . „ linen (81, 367) i „ silk (486) , . „ woollen cloth (dec, of Novem- ber 7, 1866), (618, 776) „ worsted, knit or made on frames (81, 367, 775) „ wool, knit. See Knit Goods. „ wool or worsted, not knit (618, 775) Goat, hair of the. See Wool. Ditto, manufactured. See Dress Goods, Clothing, and Manufac- tures of Worsted. Gum resins, aU, not otherwise provided for (267) Gunny-bags and gunny-cloth, of hemp, jute, or flax (484) — Valued at 10 c. or less per square yard Valued over 10 c. per square yard . . Ditto, old or refuse, fit only for re- manufacture (832) Same for manufacture of paper (851) , . Hair of the alpaca, goat, &c. See Wool, fame manufactured. See Dress Goods, Clothing, and Manufactures of Worsted, 90 per cent, of 3 dols. per ton. 90 per cent, of 34 per cent. 60 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent, 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 30 per cent. 50 per cent. 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 40 per cent. 20 per cent. 3 c. per lb. 4 c. per lb. Free. Free. 328 "UNITED STATES. Hair cloth, not otherwise provided for (70, 375, 685) Ditto, of the description known as hair seating (684) — 18 inches wide or over. . Less than 18 inches wide Ditto, known as crinoline cloth (685). . Hair of all kinds, cleaned, but unmanu- factured, not otherwise provided for (39, 775) „ curled, except of hogs, for beds or mattresses (58, 775) Handkerchiefs, cotton, printed, as cottons (dec. of September 10, 1861). ,, linen (dec. of Septem- ber 22, 1868). See Linens. „ silk (486) Hat-bands, silk and cotton, but com- mercially known as silk hat-bands, as silk trimmings (dec. of March 10, 1870), (486) Hat bodies, cotton (90, 375, 774) „ wool (613, 775) . . Hats, silk (486) „ wool (614, 775)— Valued at 40 o. or less per lb. . . Valued above 40 e. and not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. „ woollen cloth (618, 775) . „ wool or worsted knit. See Knit Goods. Hemp, Manilla, and other like substitutes for hemp, not otherwise pro- vided for (670) „ Russia, unmanufactured (dec. of January 5, 1871), (670) „ sunn (672) „ tow of (671) .. „ manufactures of. See Manufac- tures. Hosiery. See Caps. Indigo, oarmined (504) Insertings, cotton (481, 774) ., „ thread (67, 286) . , 30 per cent. 40 c. per square yard. 30 c. per square yard. 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 per cent. 60 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 ) per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 60 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 " 90 ) per cent, of 50 c. and 35 per. cent. auu. ULf jjcx.ucxil. per cent, of 50 ( and 40 per cent. 25 dols. per ton. 25 dols. per ton. 15 dols. per ton. 10 dols. per ton. per lb., per Ib.j 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 30 per cent. "UNITED STATES. 329 Iron, band, hoop, and stroll, from ^'noh to 6 inches in widtli, not thinner than ith of an inch (429, 776) Und«r fth of an inch in thickness, and not thinner than No. 20 wire gauge Thinner than No. 20 wire gauge . . „ bar, rolled or hammered, comprising flats not less than 1 inch or more than 6 inches wide, nor less than fth of an inch or more than 2 inches thick (426, 776) Less than fth of an inch or more than 2 inches thick, or less than 1 inch or more than 6 inches wide „ round, not less than f of an inch, nor more than 2 inches in diameter (426, 776) Less than f of an inch, or more than 2 inches in diameter „ round, in coils. „ square, not less than f of an inch, nor more than 2 inches square (426, 776) Less than ^ of an inch, or more than 2 inches square Provided, That all iron in slabs, blooms, loops, or other forms, less finished than iron in bars, and more advanced than pig iron, except castings, shall be rated as iron in bars, and pay a duty accordingly (426). Provided further, That none of the above iron in bars, rounds, or squares, shall pay a less rate of duty than (426, 776) „ bars for railroads and inclined planes, made to pattern and fitted to be laid without further manu- facture (427, 577, 776) „ beams, as rolled or hammered, not otherwise provided for (dec. of December 2, 1868), (430, 776) „ boiler, or other plate, not less than i^^ths of an inch in thickness (427, 776) „ boiler-plate, not otherwise provided for (5, 196) „ carbonate of (Reg. of 1857, p. 559), (166) „ casting. See Castings. „ coated or galvanized with any- metal by electric batteries (800, 776) 90 per cent, of 1^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1|- c. per lb. 90 per cent, of If c. per lb. 90 per Gent, of 1 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of IJ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1-^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1|^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 70 c. per 100 lbs. 90 per cent, of 1^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 25 dols. per ton. 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 2 c. per lb. 330 UNITED STATES. Iron, otliei- than by electric batteries (428, 777) „ filingsof (444, 776) ,, galvanized, for roofing purposes (dec. of December 28, 1870). See Iron, Coated or Galvanized. „ liquor (40) „ malleable, in castings, not otherwise provided' for (432, 776) ,, nitrate of (chemical salt), (66) ,, octagonal shape (dec. of March 6, 1869), (430, 776) „ ore (dec. of January 20, 1868), (60, 776) „ pieces of, new (dec. of Decem- ber 17, 1868), (426, 776) „ pig (675, 776) „ reduced by hydrogen (dec. of June 7, 1870), (108, 280) „ rolled or hammered, not otherwise provided for (430, 776) „ scrap, cast, of every description (676, 774) „ scrap, wrought, of every description (677, 776) Provided, That nothing shall be deemed scrap iron, except waste or refuse iron that has been in actual use, and fit only to be re- manufactured (677). „ sheet, common or black, not thinner than IJo. 20 wire gauge (427, 776) Thinner than No. 20, and not thinner than No. 25 wire gauge Thinner than No. 25 wire gauge . . „ sheet, smooth or polished, by what- ever name designated (427, 776) „ sheet, bessemer, as steel in sheets (dec. of January 12, 1869) „ slit rods. See Eods. „ wrought, for ships, steam-engines, and locomotives, or parts thereof, weighing each 25 lbs. or more (430, 776) Jackets, wooUen (dec. of October 21, 1861), (618, 775) „ Cardigan (dec. of October 26, 1869), (614, 775) Jeans. See Cottons. Jute (672) . . „ butts (841) „ manufactures of. See Manufactures. 90 per cent, of 2^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 2f c. per lb. 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 1;^ c. per lb. 20 per cent. 90 per cent, of 1 c, per lb. 90 per cent, of 7 dols. per ton. 40 per cent. 90 pfer cent, of 1| c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 6 dols. per ton. 90 per cent, of 8 dols. per ton. 90 per cent, of 1;^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1 1 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 3 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 2 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 15 dols. per ton. Free. UNITED STATES. 331 Knit goods, wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animals (dec. of June 4, 1870), (618, 775)— Valued at 40 c. or less per lb. Valued above 40 c. and not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. Lappets, cotton (decs, of May 18, 1866, , and December 22, 1866), (470, 774) Laces, cotton (481, 774) „ silk (486) „ silk and cotton, known as silk lace (dec. of March 4, 1868), (486) „ thread (67, 286) „ wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. Lead, acetate or pyrolignite of, brown (789) „ acetate of, white (789) . . Linens, viz. : — Burlaps, all, and like manufactures of flax, jute, or hemp, or of which flax, jute, or hemp shall be the component material of chief value, excepting tuch as may be suitable for bagging for cotton (783) Bagging for cotton. See Cotton Bagging. Bagging and bags, not suitable for baling cotton. See Bags. Brown or bleached linens, blay linens, brown hollands, coatings, damasks, and drills (decs, of March 14, and 18, 1867; July 13 and 18, 1871; and January 29, 1872), (26, 343)— Value 30 c. or less per square yard Value above 30 c. per square yard Brown and bleached linens, canvas (except canvas for sails, and for oil- cloth foundations or floor cloth), cotton bottoms, crash, diaper, ducks (except sail duck), handkerchiefs' (dec. of March 8, 1 872), huckabacks, lawns, paddings, or other (fabrics woven) manufactui-es of flax, jute, or hemp, or of which flax, jute, or hemp shall be the component ma- terial of chief value, not otherwise provided for (482, see also 783) — Value 30 c. or less per square yard [353] 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 24 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 60 per cent. 30 per cent. 5 c. per lb. 10 c. per lb. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 35 per cent. 2 A 332 UNITED STATES. Linens, value above 30 c. per square yard If embroidered. See Embroideries. Lint, cotton (481, 774) „ linen (482) Logwood, extract or decoction of (274) . . Lumber, viz. : — Boards, sawed, plank, deals, and other lumber of hemlock, white-wood, sycamore, and bass-wood (763) All other varieties of sawed lumber (764) Clapboards, pine (767) „ spruce (767) . . Provided, That when lumber of any sort is planed or finished, in addition to the rates above provided, there shall be levied and paid, for each side so planed and finished, 50 c. per thousand feet; and if planed on one side, and tongued and grooved, 1 dol, per thousand feet ; and if planed on two sides, and tongued and grooved, 1 dol. 50 c. per thousand feet. Machinery, according to material. Manufactures of, viz. : — Cotton, or cotton chief value, not otherwise provided for (481, 774) Flax (except fabrics woven, as provided for under "linens" and "bags") or flax chief value, not otherwise pro- vided for (482) Hemp (except fabrics woven, as pro- vided for under " linens " and "bags"), or hemp chief value, not otherwise provided for (484) Iron, or iron chief value (not part steel), not otherwise provided for (98, 383, 444, 776 ; see also 224) Jute (except fabrics woven, as provided for under " linen " and " bags "), or sisal grass, not otherwise provided for (484) Silk, or silk chief value, not otherwise provided for (487) If embroidered. See Embroideries. Steel, or steel component part, not otherwise provided for (458, 776 ; see also 224) "Wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not other- wise provided for in the Act of March 2, 1867, and woollen cloths and woollen shawls (613, 775) 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 40 per cent. 10 per cent. dol. per measure. 1,000 feet, board 2 dols. per 1,000 feet, board measure. 2 dols. per 1,000. 1 dol 50 c. per 1,000. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 40 per cent. 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 30 per cent 50 per cent. 90 per cent, of 45 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. ITKITED STATES. 333 Worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animal, wholly or in part of, of every description (except such as part wool) not otherwise provided for (614, 775)— Valued at 40 c. or less per lb. Valued above 40 c. and. not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. If embroidered. See Embroideries. Oilcloth foundations or floorcloth canvas, made of flax, jute, or hemp, or of whiclx flax, jute, or hemp shall be the com- ponent material of chief value (783) Oilcloths, for floors, stamped, painted, or printed (621, 779)— Valued at 50 c. or less per square yard Valued at over 60 c. per square yard Oilcloth, silk (621, 779) „ all other (621, 779) . . Oils, fixed or expressed. ,, olive, not salad (250) Oils or essences — Spermaceti (foreign fisheries), (698) . . Paints and colours, if not water colours — Lead, red or white, and litharge, dry or ground in oil ('525) Potash (dec. of May 10, 1866), (166) . . „ chromate of (14) „ prussiate of, yellow (254) red (254).. Eags, woollen (612i, 775) Ribbons, cotton (481, 774) . . „ silk, or part silk (dec. of April 21, 1870), (485) Rugs, railway, so styled, according to material (see decs, of Jan- uary 18, 1870, and June 6 and 28, 1870). „ travelling, part wool (dec. of Sep- tember 21, 1859), (613, 775) „ other. See Mats. Salt, in bulk (765) .. „ in bags, sacks, barrels, or other packages (756) „ rock (dec. of June 12, 1863), (775) Scarves, silk (486) , . . . ' 90 per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 45 per cent. 90 per cent, of 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 45 per cent, 25 c. per gallon. 20 per cent. 3 c. per lb. 20 per cent. 3 c. per lb. 5 c. per lb, 10 c. per lb. per cent, of 12 c. per lb. per cent, of 35 per cent, cer cent. 90 90^ 60 per cent 90 ) per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 8 c. per 100 lbs. 12 c. per 100 lbs. 8 c, per 100 lbs. 60 per cent. 2 A 334 UNITED STATES. Shawls, sills (486) . . „ woollen (dec. of January 28, 1862), (613, 775) „ other material. See Clothing. Sheeting, Russia and other, of flax or hemp, brown or white (484) Shirts, imitation merino (81, 367, 774) . . „ bosoms for, not tamboured, linen (dec. of May 18, 1859) (482) Shoddy. See Flocks. Silk, all dress and piece (decs, of Sep- tember 25, 1866, and January 29, 1867), (485) ,, cocoons (160) . . „ floss (dec. of March 21, 1870), (485) „ and India-rubber, manufactures of. See Manufactures. „ in the gum not more advanced than singles, tram, and thrown or organzine (dec. of June 19, 1866), (485) „ Manufactures of. See Manufactures. „ organzine, not in the gum (dec. of October 5, 1864), (487) „ raw, or as reeled from the cocoon, not being doubled, twisted, or advanced in manufacture any way (160) ,, scraps, or strips of (dec. of March 17, 1870), (487) „ sewing, in the gum of purified (485) „ single and tram (dec. of Decem- ber 27, 1862), (487) „ spun, for filling in skeins or cops (485, 577) „ waste (160) Silkworm's eggs (739) Sisal grass. As Jute. Size, patent (504) . , Soap,, all other (555) . ,, Castile (555) . . Soda, acetate or pyroliguite of, crude or refined (dec. of August 4, 1869) (789) .„ all carbonates of, by whatever name designated, not otherwise pro- vided for (66) „ ash (.790) „ bicarbonate of (178, 290) . „ carbonate of (178) „ caustic (178, 290) „ hyposulphate of (66) „ nitrate of, or cubic nitre (725) „ sal (790) 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per ceat, 40 per cent. 60 per cent. Free. 35 .per cent. 35 per cent. 50 per cent. Free. 50 per cent. 40 per cent. 50 per cent. 35 per cent. Free. Free. 20 per cent. 1 c. per lb. and 30 per cent. 1 e. per lb. and 25 per cent. 25 c. per lb. 20 per cent. i c. per lb. 1-^ c. per lb. ^ c. per lb. 1^ c. per lb. 20 per cent. Free. ^ c. per lb. UNITED STATES. 335 Soda, salts of (dec. of August 3, 1869), (66) „ silicate of (689) , Starch, of potatoes or corn (556) ,, of rice, or other material (556) . . „ burnt, or gum substitute (38) Steel, in bars, billets, coils, ingots, and sheets (decs, of June 19, 1866, and February 12, 1870), (446, 776)— Valued at 7 c. or less per lb. Valued at above 7 c. and not over lie. per lb. Valued at above lie. per lb. As cross cuts, as steel in sheets (dec. of August 19, 1868), Bars, slightly tapered (dee. of Sep- tember 17, 1863), (448, 776) Blooms (dec. of May 8, 1868), (458, 776) Cast, forgings in the rough (dec. of October 6, 1864), (458, 776) Cast, in coils (decs, of June 19, 1858, and November 22, 1861), (448, 776) In any form, not otherwise provided for (448, 776) Manufactures of. See Manufactures. Plough (dec. of October 20, 1860), (448, 776) Eailway bars (680, 776) Ditto, in part of steel (680, 776) Scrap, (dec. of August 4, 1870), (448, 776) Spring, German (dec. of September 10, 1858), (448, 776) Provided, That metal converted, cast, or made from iron by the Bessemer or pneumatic process, of whatever form or description, shall be classed as " steel " (680). Stones, lime, for making lime (dec. of May 8, 1866) (60) Sumac (2G6) Suspenders, cotton and india-rubber (77, 364, 481, 774, 779) „ linen (72, 360) .. „ silk (486) ,, silk and india-rubber (321). . „ if india-rubber, chief value (321, 779) „ vpoollen (618, 775). Tape, cotton (481, 774) „ linen (482) „ silk (487) 20 per cent. ^c. per lb. 1 c. per lb., and 20 per cent. 3 c. per lb., and 20 per cent. 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 2-| c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 3 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 3J c. per lb., and 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 45 per cent. 90 per cent, of 45 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 pef cent. 90 per cent, of 1^ c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 1 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 per cent. 20 per cent. 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 50 per cent. 90 per cent of 50 per cent. 90 per cent, of 60 c. per lb., and 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 40 per cent. 50 per cent. 336 UNITED STATES. Tape, measuring, linen (482) . . leathei'(103, 387, 781). Tartar, or argols, crude (708) . . „ partially refined (dec. of August 9, 1871), (223) Timber, hewn and sawed (53). . „ round, unmanufactured, not otherwise provided for (843) „ used in building wharves (53) . . „ ship (dec. of April 24, 1871), (843) „ squared or sided, not otherwise provided for. See proviso to lumber. (762) Tin, muriate of (329) . „ nitrate of (66) . . Twine, flax or linen (482) „ any other material (dec. of November 28, 1863), (116, 400) „ if cotton or paper, chief value (116, 400, 774, 778) Velvet, cotton (481, 774) „ printedorpainted(118, 401, 774) „ silk and cotton, cotton chief value _ (481, 774) _ „ silk, or silk chief value (485) Vestings, silk (486) . . „ silk and cotton, but sold as a pure silk article (dec. of January 6, 1871), (486) wool (613, 775) „ other (according to material). Vitriol, blue or Roman (sulphate of copper), (790) "Webbing, cotton, flax, or any other material, not otherwise pro- vided for (119, 403) ,, if cotton, chief value (119, 403, 774) silk (486) ._. _ „ silk and india-rubber. See Manufactures of India-rubber and Silk. „ wool, worsted, or mohair. See Trimmings. ,, any other material and india- rubber (77, 364) Wicks, cotton (481, 774) Wool, hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals, shall be divided, for the purpose of fixing the duties, into three classes — 40 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. Free. 6 c. per lb. 20 per cent. Free. 20 per cent. Free. 1 c. per cubic foot. 30 per cent. 20 per cent. 40 per cent. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 60 per cent. 60 per cent. 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 4 c. per lb. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. 60 per cent. 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 35 per cent. UNITED STATES. 337 Wool, class 1 and 2. — Clothing and comb- ing wools, hair of the alpaca, goat, and othex' like animals (specified in 609 and 610) the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall be 32 c. or less per lb. (612, 775) Exceeding 32 c. per lb. Class 3.— Carpet wools, and all other similar wools (specified in 611), the value whereof at the- last port or place whence exported into the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall be 12 o. or less per lb. (612, 775) Exceeding 12 c. per lb. Provided, if the above be imported other than in the ordinary condition, or mixed with dirt, &c., to evade the duty, pays twice the amount it would be otherwise subjected to (612). Provided further, T^hen wool is im- ported of diflferent qualities in same package, it is appraised at the average aggregate value ; when invoiced at the same price, whereby the average price shall be reduced more than 10 per cent, below the value of the bale of the best quality, the whole appraised according to . best quality ; and no package shall be liable to a less rate in consequence of being invoiced witli wool of lower value (612). Provided further, that wool of Class 1 , imported washed, shall be twice the amount of duty as when imported unwashed, and that wool of all classes imported scoured, shall be three times the amount of duty as when imported unwashed (dec. of September 21, 1869), (612). Wool, manufactures of. See Manufac- tures. „ noils, being short pieces and knots of wool, classed as wool (dec. of April 19, 1869). „ on the skin, same rate as wool (667). „ pickings (dec. of May 29, 1868), (612, 775) 90 per cent, of 10 o. per lb., and 11 per cent. 90 per cent, of 12 c. per lb., „and 10 per cent. 90 per cent, of 3 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 6 c. per lb. 90 per cent, of 10 c. per lb,, and 11 per cent. 338 UNITED STATES. Worsted, manufactures of. See Manu- factures. Yarn, carpet, of wool waste, cows' hair, &c., as woollen yam (Dec. of January 9, 1869). „ coir (821) „ cotton. See Cotton Ttread. „ flax (Dec. of May 8, 1863), (482). . „ hemp (483) . . „ jute (484) „ tow of flax (Dec. of .Jiily 10, 1861), (482) „ flax or linen, for carpets, not ex- ceeding ZSTo. 8 Lea (482)— Valued at 24 c. or less per lb. Valued at above 24 c. per lb. „ woollen and worsted (614, 775) — Valued at 40 o. or less per lb. Valued above 40 c. and not above 60 c. per lb. Valued above 60 c. and not above 80 c. per lb. Valued above 80 c. per lb. Free. 40 per cent. 5 c. per lb. 25 per cent. 40 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. ) per cent, of 20 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 30 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 90 per cent, of 40 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. ' 90 per cent, of 50 c. per lb., and 35 per cent. 3. General Features of Textile Industry. Cotton industry preceded woollen. Silk industry. Linen and jute. Silk mills. Cotton mills. Woollen mills. Their distribu- tion. Their arrange- ment. 9. In the United States the wool industry seems to have rather succeeded the cotton industry than have pre- ceded it, as is the usual sequence of those industries in the Old World. Both cotton and wool are now of great im- portance, and the silk iadustry has made rapid progress. But the real linen industry has obtained no ground of vantage, although a jute industry is springing up. There are some silk mills of the best kind, famous for their products. There are likewise many cotton and woollen mills competing in excellence as well as in cheapness. The largest cotton mill has 130,000 spindles and 3,000 looms, and the largest woollen mills have 100 or mores sets of machinery. The wool industry, although it has several centres, is more or less distributed through- out the country. But the cotton industry is mainly concentrated in two or three centres, and has only straggled into other parts of the country. 10. The arrangement of woollen and worsted mills seems to be about the same as in England. But spinning and weaving worsted became so profitable that UNITED STATES. 339 tliere are several make-sliift establishments of straggling plans. The arrangement of cotton mills varies in the United States, probably rather more than in England. The variety is from a mill arranged entirely on a ground floor, to the high-storied mills arranged on the best vrorking plan. The usual arrangement in the best of these seems to be, — the blowing-room on the ground or basement floor, and not always in the main building, carding rooras at the top, vrith spinning, and then weaving rooms in the intermediate stories. Bat in some there is a kind of alternate plan of spinning, partly on ground and third floors, with weaving-rooms on the first and second floors ; and in some others of a straggling construction, there is a straggling arrange- ment. In construction, the mills are not usually what are Their con- in England called fireproof buildings, neither are they, =*'^'i''*'°"- perhaps, as strongly built as in England, But the best are certainly fine buildings, erected to last for a long time. Iron girders vsdth stone floors are generally at present beyond the reach of the American mill-owner. The mill has usually very heavy beams or girders, 8 to 4 inch thickness of deal planking, with a southern hard pine floor on the top of the planks. 11. Certain manufacturing locahties, such as Lowell, Special advan- Lawrence, and others, have great advantages in water ^^^^' power. But in New England the most rising town is EaU Biver, where steam-power is more effective than the water power of its fall. It is adding 14 large mills in this current year to its former number of about 1,000,000. spindles. The object in selecting a site is to .build as near as possible to tide water ; yet several mills, , as soon as the fall was occupied throughout its length, were built on the hill around the lake, and have now the disadvantage of extra hauling. There is an idea of lessening the cost of this, by putting down rails from the water side to these mills, and using a hauling machine. The reason of this lesser efiSciency of the older mills on the fall river itself, is the narrow con- struction and the older machinery, and sometimes the smaller size. Eall Biver, as a whole, saves freight in and out, procures it coals from Philadelphia, and sends its goods to New York more cheaply than any other place in New England, except Providence and its neighbom-ing 340 UNITED STATES. Little Bpecial- isation. Ventilation and lighting. Looks of operatives. New kind of ' hands. Dependence on immigrants. towns. The middle States have the advantage of being nearer the coal regions than New England. There is not in the United States the same special- isation as in England. Spinning, weaving, and even machine-making are carried on in the sanae establish- ment, and printing is accompanied sometimes by all three. All the profits are received by the proprietors, but it is open to doubt whether, in a greater sub-division of the processes of manufacturing, one profit would not be relatively greater. It has, however, been hitherto a necessity that in the United States a manufacturing establishment should be entirely, or almost entirely, self-contained. The ventilation and lighting of mills are attracting attention. The subject is of much importance in the northern States, and even of greater importance in the northern parts of New England, where the winter days are short. A gas sunlight has been ' suggested as the best mode of lighting up the machines, and, at the same time, of securing great ventilation. By alterations in these directions, it is expected that the productiveness of the labourer in the dark hours will be increased. 12. It is a pleasure to visit an American mill, where the cheerful faces of cleanly operatives greet one's entrance. As a rule they surpass the European operat- ives in pleasant appearance and respectable clothing, and they mind clean and well-kept machinery. The Pacific mills obtained an European reputation by winning a medal at the 1867 Paris Exhibition, for its excellent care of the operatives. In most mills it is the special pride of the proprietors to provide, as far as possible, for the higher wants of the operatives. But the fonner glory of Lowell and similar places is departing, for the American farmer's daughter is retiring from the mill, and the European immigrant is taking her place. This change has already occurred in most mills, where the farmer's daughter is only to be exceptionally found in the higher departments of labour. In a few mills, how- ever, running on carpets and high class work, she can still be seen. The main dependence of mills is never- theless upon the immigrant labourers. This is a feature which, as regards the inferior class of labour in aU industries, is becoming very marked ; for the Americans, native-bom, whether they be of American descent or of UNITED STATES. 341 immigrant grand-parents, too often arrive at maturity of manhood, with a laudable, but sometimes premature, ambition to step up to something higher than manual labour. They accumulate in cities and crowd into other callings where their labour is often ill-requited, whilst the pay of unsMlled labour is enhanced. But it may not always be without danger to a com- munity at large, that certain classes of labour can only be supplied by immigration, and are avoided by the native-born labourers. This tends, moreover, to split the community into two unequal parts, and to destroy the democratic equality of manual labour. But in the United States the greatest danger of such a state of affairs is remote, namely, the cessation of immigration. Until the conditions of success in life are more equalized in the old and new worlds, immigrants will continue to cross the Atlantic at the rate of a thousand a-day, and the pauper labour will unceasingly move from east to west, and occupy the pauper land, and create a wealth, magical in rapidity, but solid and permanent in value. Pabt II. — 1. The Cotton Manufactube in 1870 ACCOBDING TO THE OeNSUS. (a.) Yarns, Piece Goods, Sfc. 13. The Census Returns for 1870 have been most carefully revised, and, in regard to the cotton manufac- turers are said by cotton statisticians to be as accurate as statistics on such a complicated and hidden subject can be. And it must be conceded that they are fiiller and probably more correct than any statistics in any other country embracing as wide a range of detail. It is also acknowledged that they represent more exactly the true position of the cotton manufacture in 1870 than the corresponding statistics do for the years 1860, 1850, and 1840 respectively. Indeed, the statistics of 1840 and 1850 are rendered useless for pm^poses of comparison by the many and large errors which have been discovered in. them. The 1870 returns of the cotton manufacture in full Special cotton detaU are not yet in an accessible shape, but I have been ^tat'^tics. favoured by General Walker, Superintendent of Census, with a copy of the special statistics in the aggregate by- States of the cotton manufacture in 1870. The following is the Table of these special statistics : — 342 UNITED STATES. O XO CO iH o CO CO 00 iH •\ za n o o I H O O 1 03 .2 ■a 13 a ^3 edrd si 5l3 o ss CO a.§ s s §a £3 SJ Up; 111 Ill's o s'a 1 il i| 00 316,679 4,100 3,240.783 190.069 611,868 25,600 113,200 375 57,951 60,500 3,665,197 671,933 13,689,306 61,833 130,300 3,989,863 1,009,361 3,636,171 183,951 113,520 8,496,986 - 5,324,650 357,680 178,166 68,211 135,000 239,750 f wci Sea" 931,000 13,000 13,710,700 1,165,300 3,433,365 161,000 551,500 1,500 405,000 592,000 9,839,085 3,7.34,250 44,714,375 761,600 489,200 13,332,710 3,763,000 8,611,336 1,030,900 565,700 12,560,730 18,836,300 1,337,000 970.050 496,000 43.000 670.000 1,138,000 S S 3 1 1" 00 Or-t rH.^O Ct «D OD (M US OS O O 00 CS t-Oa t^CC « t>.IJ 00 rH 01 OSCT 01 rH »nt..t.- rHOOSOOStn C-r-lCOrH CO Gl : ; ; io rH rH ofco" Ii inco..#so rH OS MrH t^eocliBOO.*oin SDeot-t~QOco«eioie*^ -^ WM O^M '■^'"^^o'"JH^^lflSs'*OoS^'" ^ ^J? ; jrH '^'^"m *>rH"*" «"<» eccoeoin t^o o= cot-M o CO -f 00 t-oi so oD ooeo OS eg os « ^ o us rH ^M -tClrH t.-«OOOOSL.-fcs,..SQOOUSrHUSQOQO>OOOrHCSl(Sl SO .^Cl rH rH rH SO <0 SO rH t~ O SO «« 00 US CT W rH r-ICi •^ ': :r^ 0? CO eo"rH"Ga eoio" 5' CO CO r-l 1,033 17 12,086 726 2;846 98 503 6 269 34-6 9,439 2,800 .13,513 361 13,543 3,154 9,144 1,453 462 13,730 16,745 1.123 890 391 16 451 1,741 s s 1 co" 8.3-14 1,000 303,383 10,900 11,464 '■' 074 3,884 300,178 6,900 1,303,989 1,000 700 303,048 93,038 361,193 1,940 8,930 301.718 539.446 357 5.438 400 13.336 1,000 4 OS co" 19.802 126 394.760 18.634 74,148 1,866 17,360 "7,000 10,300 259.594 82,213 1,355,662 2,620 16,015 447,795 107,542 131,380 37,957 14,330 333,628 503,797 34,083 22,185 8,478 1,020 ie,5:i2 70,116 J CO ft CI CO I-H t^eoop cimcit^eoeiio rHW oooooocius us coiOi-H coo CO -*t^ OOr-H^ I>. OS ^ ■* XS I-H OS t^ rH r-l CO b- ^rH CO rH CI ;=^ ost^ CO ■* ctcscrscOi-H"^Oi-Hcieoc»ooot-coc» ooo •!-J ■ * ■ 10 rH rH t-l r^ OS 1 1 i rH -^^t-O g«C. rH g^USCO gcl^1^C0U«;^5j CO « O I-H : : : : CO : ,-i . I-H -*000 000 QOi-to«o t^ oi CO I-H 00 in eo csoo CO oDco ; :cs J :oos^eo tt-^tno-im c> closes : eot^ 0" ■ 'CT * 'oDrHcf 't^^r-HiOrH r-Tc? I-H CO I-H rH 1 CO s 1 COr-HiOia , ^ -e CO t- rH m -* Ol 00 rH CO CO C^ IB CO in to rH ^ OS t? ^i-IM £ • iraiooo ot^p-naoKsoot-owsifflooDOincr-H o CO 00 I— rHeOO OS-^CO COClGlrHi-Hl>.t--rHOSOSC10T«0» t-O inr-l ^ COV3 : :CT co(?»coioCTcisoosi~-co_rHco-*co :-i*ci : et ' * I-H ""^"^ '^'^ l>^t> ■ OS 3*^3*° : :^'"^'-^"'^S^g*"=^^ST53lg'^gg2^^"'"S 1 i s 1 1 1 Alabama Arkansas Connecticut Delaware District of Columbia . Honda Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Kentucky Louisiana Maine Mai'yland Massachusetts. Mississippi Missouri New Hampshire New Jersey New York North Carolina Ohio ... ^ Pennsylvania . Rhode Island South Carolina Tennessee Texas Utah Vermont ytrginia ^01CC^.--SOt^=OO.OrH«cO^O«t^^20^^«g=g|^Ob^^gO UNITED STATES. 343 .o H* OO 000 000 550 000 950 coo 000 000 335 150 000 ,400 .^ CO CO nsco" : :g§' • cS" .COO'Ot .-+< .0^-«0 0^r-l0 • > .O ■ :«i :t>.Oii-i :r-i :C«gMr-i"*oO«o ; ; joi ; 1 b'-' J'cs t^CO l-H rH-co- CO eo">nr-r cico" ci t> rH CO T-H S5 Q O » O S CT • ■* ,— I'd MM t^ gs ■^1 11 .1< . . . .■^. .lO. ■ .C?. . . .i-T.CD. . . . o CO ■ * • *io ■ ■ 'CO ■ • 'CO '-^ .... of r-4 CO ^ o OO t- O OOOt-Cli— lOOWSCOMOCOeirHOOVOO lO lO COO CO CO 8S^^S^SS&£§g^§g2gSg S? !>; l>;«0^ r— 1 00 »rH .r-Hio . ,t^ .■** :g?^"S"'-^g"K"5"^"gg'g£SSgg^S" :S o ,00 •GOC- ■ •Oa -t- 1-5 «° id •CJ-# • ■° • •co!--l-* rH CI O rH r- Cli-H OS in r-l 00 OT^ ^ 'r-l s 1-7 r-H '^ ei" r-H rH « -iSrcO i-H o CO lO tOClClOcO lOOO CO iO t- sc ssss es s PM ^o CO i'l rao . ■^" • • ^« ; t^ ; ; i^ — PhO 5«or 5" O? c?"rHcf oa'in co" M -^rHOO D- ^ CO lis IN ^ •* CO o oco t- •^ iLftin ooco CO TttOO ooco rH fOeo . . . .03^" . :>^"^gj" . : :tf . : . . . . ■ ■ • -co^ '■ '"^Tp^K)^ ■ ■ -in • • ' • ■ • HI O >'^ 00 Cfof CXr^ t^ d cc 1^ " ^V> CO § CO O O- OS ggSSiggggggSgggggSggg w m " C90 S O .Os" .r-T .s.n^ li S" coo .10 . 438.8 614,0 839,6 133,1 407.7 160,0 326,7 174,0 383,5 954,6 2946 706,8 973,2 373,9 976,4 739,7 7 143,0 644,8 l-l • ifflcs 7 • eo -CO •coco • •^ °°~ 23-^0 ■^~ g-ci- CO co" inOO cC C^a -^lacfii—i in t^oor-T cf en CO g Sr i-C «Or-ntnooirarH • ,g PS- co" r-l r-ir^ J_J ^ O O o O O O CO C5 ri fl. R. R. °^ S. 5-s OT-^ ^1 pOeo i h^tN CO )=i n o o 11 DJO o : : : : : : : : : : : : I : : : : : : : :3- : J - i : : J pH M n -t OO oot- CO -T< OO Oeo r-l OO CO-.* ;a • ^r-l WOf eo" . . , m oo" . . CO fh" .acq : : : : :^'^ : : : oi m ; : >-i o ; : : • - - 1© ira • * 'CO ' "QOin t^ coOOTio ' cooooo>nirar-.o-*ocsiiOr-.cocicooc»eo U3 C*OOi-l t-Or-( OCMCMC — *'.Or-100ClQQr-<0>ncO ,Ol io_ Tf(CO«3 rH 0_^CO^O CO in t- CO O t- eo t~ O CO C» 'J CO t^ CD lO 1-1 lO CO CO m Qo Oi'cD t-t^" . ,1-H t~^00 ■* 00 t-eo -^ O CD CS O CO CO CO CO O CO (N t^co in lo" "o -ao ^ CO TfICO : -civnt> •cnooo int-oococDinrH-eiOst-CTcr^ScoScoo oSot JCO„ t-ia c:) cc" i-TeT o" « CMr-lCO -^ Ol CO OS CO CO __ n :=::::: = :::: = :::::::: : : :.S _g ■s 'S 'S M i . Iowa . . Kentucky ... , Louisiaua ... . Maine , Maryland ... , Massacliusetts , Mississippi, ... , Missouri , New Hampshire , Kew Jersey . , New York ... , Worth Carolina , Ohio . Pennsylvania , Mode Island . 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O CO J2 1 i n 398.685 17,360 4.123,963 638,439 100,000 49,930 1,395,056 86,660 445.639 3,630,616 3,031,396. 31,394,401 33,000 143,000 8,861,749 1,380.648 6.019.33S 986.411 694,304- 5.813,136 6,495.973 843.440 508,481 280,300 1,416,109 M 4 1 to II tM ineo OS 'r— iior— icM ooocsmcii— t -^^e* C* r—l X 1 coos ^O CQ t- OSdin OeO-*^iO i-l rn r-i O X i ooooooo o o oooooooooooooo oo OOinoooo %a O loininoooioOiocso.mwMn mm WiOCOlOOCOS t- O OSOTi-H in Ot^SSrHSDtn 0_ 00 00>^ ^^ g^gg^go .o .g :§i§§§i§iBS§§§l : :§i m o a r ^EggSSS^ .& .^ ,i5^gS8^ESS^SS^^ . .iSS n-(r-iQOrHtM->#t- M lo us(SOr-^^^Oooc^1lnosloo-#os cooo t-cCOCOOi— im O OS «^OSClC»OOJ««3iOX'COCSr}< lOi— ( ■a '1 Is" pi" ooooooeo o o ooooocooooioooo oo ooooooin o o ooco o C3 0*00 CIO o o ^£ si"|"§"Slg" ;l :1 iiliWilililiil '■ 'M i § £ «3 xa eOr-llXJlOOCS in C« inr-<«ll- C~ ci" * • • i-HoT cf e* co"'*" ■ ■ ^ g 1 iOrHtoco-^ino* in e^ e»c«oeomcnoioosi— icomcsrH i— leo rHCOQOCO-^CaC- oa O eOO«cOCOin(SrHGlf-*0«Ot-r-IOS -#«al t- rHQOrH Cl I I ■* ID-OC^ rH r-< t- « tO ^ «0 OO O 00 • ; OT C! 1 «f ■ « ■ • -CO-CO-* «"^"OrH- t^OrH- ' ' oi if r-H «co»«M - « CO «g««c.^^oo=cog5»«r. cgj M * : : : « o*^ : : s •a 1 1 CQ 1 = :::: i = M :::: = :::::: i : i :: i ;•; i I : I I \ I I I I I • : I ■ I I : : I : \ I : I I I : \ : \ •; MJ I ::::::: i ::::::::::;■: 1 i i = :^ =1 = : : : ; : ; : i:d • :| • i| -.S-^.l i : : I 1 rH CT CO -# U» «D ti 30 Oi O rH ci CO "* >0 <» t^ 00 OS O 1-H oi CO ■* in O ti CO OS o r-lrHr-. ^ >% >> -a s a • • ^ • • '"' ^ 'S'3 n an S 2 ^ . . . c Ph c « =0 CT" O 3 " CQ rt " (U U) ■S3 § . •§ C14 M .-d c a 1— 1 « ^ « « ■* »n a* I-H (N fH W •S'-t(NTt*eotoini> ;oD 1 i CO CO (M -i* ^ CO 00 00 ^ 00 OS Q050i>.o«i>.ejoo OS ^ *>. 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Qo "^h^Po o es 00 ci CO OS L. -2 e .Fi nooiCwaooLO -1^ CO 1— < O CM Ci "^ «M o =_; o -5 to |o _<^ ,^« -j^ , U-S ^ »C OO 00 ^ 00 ^. ift o >- = e- H Iho ■?» Si l>. -^ CJ -a" i-i CM N ^H o ,; -+*Hn H* r^ffi '!! OOCiOOkfSe*30©M'CJcO 00^0-«*<'«j'OeD'-5<«f^r- 1— IWrHi— (OSOOODOitnOf— |w »c coooeii-^NQOi-I' O N O 00 iJ^ rt r-« CO Oi r^ O u -if H« -^« ^ ,,w H« «ooiNW"*c*:rttDt^Qo O !>. l-^ -sr lO to Ca 00 h.S »-l OS*O*r^rHiftQ0"^ i-T iO ^-^N jj S S Hl«r+JI«|«Hl* -4* rHM ^^ s l-H PLI OiCt-CMi— l':DMI>.i-HeON Ol^^OOJt^OOtOtftWiO^ La U i-iOOr-i •"I'^'-l'^rtl-^rt Si tjh" to o o tC o CO -T OS « 00 «>- « M ffi « (N ^ Ui 93 n ■ vn o OD 04 'a CO CO of ■^'' «o CO *J CO t^ 00 I-) O I"* ^ 00 N CO «0 !>. OS in CO rH — ( O "^ N oa t* t>. w « ifl C30 CO i-^ O 04 E£ CO to CO W i-O of -» Tf »0 O CO C*I CO M l>- <>. I> CC I— t r-t o o <-< i>.o o o CO CO O) CO in to CO to I— t p-H OS CO 'o o tC CO tr? CO -^ Q CO O C<1 CO OS W (N (N CO ■* ^ So O O CO If? o o O O CO CO C4 o , O O CO CO ■»>. CO ^ eJ irC ^ OS CO «o O Oi CO I— I CO A CO RO CO ^ CO kO CO 1—1 CO OS Cfl CO CO CO Tt^ CS O ifl . -f OJ "* CO CO -^ O « f-H I— I -^ !>. t-, (2i i-TcToTeao •^ o CO ca CO CQ . O CS ifS !>. ■-t CM ! co" "* of OS* CO eo" 1 r-t CO OS iO ■'T rf* »ft *0 O 00 CO J>. . *o in o eo c* '^ (N ■ o 1 « ^ CO »n »n CO O « O r-l 00 O £ -i= PI - -^ c>J cn c? o o .fT l-H CO CM -^ 40 PH -* CO CO LO 00 CO OS w 1 <» CO 1-- CO c ^ : : eo ; ooo t* :S *« '^--l fl4 ^ § J3 UNITED STATES. 355 In the products the chief kinds of articles only are entered. In New York and Maine the articles unenu- merated are many, but their importance for the purpose of this comparison seems to be about the same in each State. 20. The facts in regard to raw or primary materials Raw materials, are interesting. Under the head of materials in Table A. are four columns for cotton, cotton yarn, cotton warps, and cotton waste. These are the returns of primary materials consumed in the returned production. Under the head of products are to be found columns for yarns not woven, for warps, and for cotton waste. It is stated that, under the head of materials, the pounds of yarn, warp, and waste do not constitute so much double counting, and are not, therefore, products of the cotton returned in the first column under that head. Assuming, therefore, that there is no doiible counting, the produc- tion of raw and primary materials to product is, as will be seen from column 7 of Table C, 1'17 to 1 for the aggregate of cotton manufactures in the United States. If, however, it be assumed that the pounds of raw cotton returned cover the pounds of raw material actually consumed in the products returned, and if, consequently, the pounds of other primary materials be disregarded as, on the one hand, being already included in the pounds of raw materials, and as, on the other hand, being counted in the products, then the proportion is as 1"14 to 1 for the same aggregate. But this can hardly be correct. The first proportion approaches nearer to the truth. The real state of the case seems to be that, as the returns include, on the one hand, establishments which spin but do not weave yarns, and, on the other hand, establishments which spin and weave their yarns, these returns contain some double counting in the aggregates for States, although they have been carefully freed from any double counting in each of the Double separate returns of the separate establishments. Por counting. instance, it is well known that the Southern States have exported and do export yarns northwards. Their raw cotton and products would have been correctly returned ; the latter as "yarns not woven." Some of these yams wiU have been purchased in Philadelphia as primary materials for weaving, and would have been correctly 356 UNITED STATES. returned as "materials." But the raw cotton from which they were made heing already returned, there is evidently to this extent a double countiQg which is unavoidable ; and in the absence of any export of yarns from the United States, this double counting will extend to all the yarns not woven unless some of them he imports into the United States. The same thing may obviously happen within a State, as in Rhode Island, where yarns are often sold by spinning mUls to weaving and printing mills. A similar reasoning would apply to cotton warps and cotton waste. Moreover, in the case of cotton waste, many establishments use up part of their cotton waste as primary material without retm'ning it separately. This may be inferred from the fact that cotton waste, as a product, is only returned as one- fiftieth part of the consumption of raw cotton instead of from one-fifth to one-sixth. The consumption of cotton waste is only returned by establishments which purchased the material. Productg. 21. T'or similar reasons the true state of the case, as regards tlie returns of products, seems to be that there is a similar double counting, inasmuch as the yarns not woven at the establishments where they are spun are subsequently woven rato fabrics or doubled into thread, or made into other products at establishments which purchase them as primary materials for that purpose. If, however, the yarns not woven be disregarded as being included in the raw cotton, on the one hand, and in the further manufactured products, on the other hand, the proportion of raw material to production becomes nearly 1-25 to 1. But this also can hardly be the true proportion. The ftirther corrections which are necessary seem to be two. The important one arises out of the fact that neither hosiery nor carpets nor union fabrics are included in the Table A taken from the census returns, and that to the extent to which yams not woven are consumed in the unretumed hosiery and union products and the warps may be consumed in the unretumed carpet products, there is no double counting in respect of yarns and warps. The other possible correction would be necessary if yarns are sometimes sold to other establishments for warping, and from them again to other establishments for further UNITED STATES. 357 manufacture, inasmucli as this would be a double double counting. I am, however, unable, for want of data., to make these corrections. But, allowing for all these considerations, the result seems to be that the census returns show a consumption of about 1^ lb. of raw cotton for every pound of pro- duction. 22. The annual consumption of primary materials per primary spindle, as returned in Table A, and worked out in the materials, second column of Table C, is nearly 57|^ lb., but that of Consumption raw cotton alone per spindle is 55f lb. for the aggregate °^' of manufacture in the United States. This relatively somewhat high average consumption does not seem to indicate of necessity a higher consumption from greater efficiency of the spindles, although it may, as will here- after be seen, indicate to a certain degree such a greater efficiency. But it certainly shows that, to a large extent, the cotton manufacture of the United States is mainly in the coarser fabrics. This view is confirmed on turning to the columns of products in Table A, for there it will be seen that of the total production the sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods, which in. great bulk do not exceed No. 14, form about one-half, and that, whilst the prints form scarcely one- quarter, some other coarser fabrics make up nearly one-eigLth. Underlying these remarks is the supposition that the spindles work full time throughout the year ; for it is evident that, to the extent to which they may not have worked full time, a correc- tion should be made in the foregoing remarks. And, if the natm-e of the products and their proportion to each other be considered, it would almost seem that a correc- tion of this kind should be applied, for the consumption per spindle ought, under the circumstances, to be even higher. It should be borne in mind that full time in American cotton mills is sixty-two to sixty-six hours, and averages sixty-four hours a week. 23. The price per pound of the primary materials is. Price of. according to Table A, and my deductions from column 7 of Table 0, about 24-/o- c, but, after allowing for the value of the quantities of yarn, warp, and waste returned as materials, the average price of the raw cotton con- sumed is about 24^ c. I believe that the average price of cotton (exclusive of Sea Island) was about 23^ o. per pound for the cotton year in which the census was taken, 358 UNITED STATES. and that the price of Sea Island cotton was about 54 c. per pound for the same year. On the supposition that the different grades of ordinary cotton were so used and bought, that the average value per pound was 24^ c, it would seem that the American cotton mills consiimed about 395,000,000 lb. of ordinary cotton and only about 3,000,000 lb. of Sea Island cotton. This result also shows that the production in the United States requires to about one-hundredth only materials manufactured from Sea Island cotton. This result is not, however, presented as the actual fact, but as an indication of the fact. There remains to be noticed that, according to column 8 of Table C the materials as returned form 57 per cent, of the value of aU products as returned. But if the con- siderations just advanced be duly weighed, it wUl, I think, be found that the raw cotton costs about 61 per cent, of the value of all products. Raw material 24. As thc proportiou of raw material to product to product. i3oth in quantity and value varies much in the different States according to the nature of the manufactures, I subjoin a Table of the different proportions which may be useful. UNITED STATES. 359 (E.) — Table of Materials. Value of Primary Quantity of States. Materials. Materials. Nature of the Manufactures. To Pound To Value To Pound of Product. of Product. of Product. 1st Area. C. m. Per cent. Pounds. Massachusetts . , 29 91 57 1-18 Various. Rhode Island 29 89 52i 1-17 Ditto. Maine . , 23 95 511 1-09 Five-sixths in sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods. Vermont 25 70 49i I 17 Nine-tenths in print cloths. 2nd Area, Pennsylvania 29 29 54i 1-17 Various. Delaware 25 59 50 1-22 Sheetings, &c., and chocks. Maryland 31 33 68 1-20 Coarse sheetings, &., checks, and lawns. Srd Area. New York 28 67 56i 1-16 Various. Southern States. South Carolina . . 18 19 49 1-15 Three-fourths in sheetings, &c. ; one-fourth in yarns and batts. Virginia 26 21 63i 1-23 25-26ths in sheetings, &c. Kentucky 25 79 71i 1-14 One-half yarns ; one-half batts, cordage, &c. Louisiana 23 89 59J 1-19 Four-fifths in sheetings, &c., and in ginghams. Other States and Territories. Arkansas 24 99 59 1-20 Thread only. Illinois . . 21 92 58 1-16 Various half-manufactures. Iowa . . 26 67 68i 112 Batts, &c. Ohio . . 25 28 71 116 Five-eighths in yarns and warps; two-eighths in sheet- ings, &c. Texas . , 22 03 53f 1-21 Five-sixths in sheetings, &c., and ginghams. Utah .. 23 24 39 1 1-01 Nine-tenths in yarns. In dealing ^^ ith tlie separate States it is impossible to apply with, exactness the considerations cited in para- graphs 20 to 21. Tor it is not easy to distinguish between the materials haK manufactured within a given State and those imported from other States, or between the products further manufactured within the given State and those exported to other States. These con- siderations have not, therefore, been regarded in the compilation of the foregoing Table. As regards the 360 UNITED STATES. value and primary materials, such considerations could only be applied in respect of materials to five of the States enumerated, viz., to Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New York. If it were assumed that all the primary materials except cotton were a quantity already included in the quantity of cotton, the values ia the first column of the foregoing Table would, in the case of Massachusetts, be unaffected, in the cases of Delaware and New York be increased by 8 mills and 1 c. 3 mills respectively, and in the case of Rhode Island and Pensylvania be diminished by 2 c. and 2 c. 2 mills respectively. These alterations would respectively diminish or increase in due proportion the per-centages in the second column. Moreover, in respect of products, similar considerations would eliminate the value of "yarn not woven," "warps," and "cotton waste," and would, in due proportion, cause the per- centage to vary still more. As regards the ratios of materials to products, they would obviously be affected by the assumption in respect of materials of a double counting to the above extent, and in respect of products of a double counting to the extent of the quantities of " yarn not woven " and " warps " and " cotton- waste." In the Southern and Western States it may be safely assumed that there is no double counting, or is not enough to affect the results in column 3 of the above Table. In Pennsylvania and New York, if there be any double counting, it would only increase the quantity of materials per pound o:^ product by at most 3-lOOths of a pound. In Yermont it would make no difference, but in Maine the maximum of possible double counting would change 1'09 into 1"12 which is still low. In the other three States it may be inferred that there is little or no double counting, for the possible maximum would increase what are normal proportions to abnormal. It only remains to observe, on the results obtained for South Carolina, that they are consistent with each i)ther, and give in the third column a fair' average of cotton per pound of product, and that the apparent price of 16 c. per pound for cotton, which is only two-thirds of the average cost in Ncav York at that time, may be owing to the very low grada of cotton used, and pos- sibly to the cotton being bought, not only unbaled, but ttngumed. UNITED STATES. 361 25. There is no distinction between the different arti- Miu supplies. cles of mill supplies in these Special statistics (Table A) of the cotton manufacture, their value alone is given. Erom colmnn 7 of Table C it will be seen that mill supplies cost about 3^ c. per pound of product, or a little more than 11 1 per cent, of the average cost of the raw material, when ordinary cotton was at 2B^ c. per pound and Sea Island was at 54 c. per pound. Prom coliimn 5 of Table it will also be seen that mill sup- plies are about 28 per cent of the average cost of labour, and from column 8 that they are about 7 per cent, of the total vahie of " all products." If the considerations which have been regarded in previous calculations be borne in mind, it will, I think, be found that the mill supplies cost about 7^ per cent, of the value of "all products." It is assumed that " mill supplies " include the cost of power in fuel. As the proportion of " mill supphes " to " all mate- varying pro- rials " varies much in the different States, and as that ^°''*"' °*' varying preparation varies according to the natm^e of the manufactures of each State, I subjoin a Table of the different proportions which may be found useful. 362 UNITED STATES. Fuel. (F.)— Tattle of Mill Supplies. Proportion of Water to Steam Mill Supplies. States. To all To Pound Nature of Manufactures. Power. Materials. of Product. Ratio. Per cent. C. m. Isl Area. Massachusetts 2 to 1 nearly 9 02 92 Various. Rhode Island • . Htol 13i 04 56 Ditto. Maine . . • • 25 to 1 9 02 60 Five-sixths in sheetings, shirt- ings, &c. Vermont . . 12tol 7i 02 04 Twilled goods. Nine-tenths in print cloths. 2nd Area. Pennsylvania 2ito I Hi 03 71 Various. Delaware . . Jtol 111 03 31 Sheetings and checks. Maryland IJto 1 3i 01 14 Coarse sheetings, &c., checks, and lawns. 3rd Area. New York I to 1 nearly 9i 02 94 Various. Southern States. South Carolina . . All water n 00 30 Three-fourths in sheetings, &C. ; one-fourth in yarns and batts. Virginia 3itol Si 00 92 25-26ths in sheetings, &c. Kentucky Jtol 41 01 22 One-half yams ; one-half batts, cordage, &c. Louisiana . . All steam 7 01 78 Four-fifths in sheetings, &c., and in ginghams. Other States and Territories. Arkansas 1 to 1 3f 00 09 Thread only. Illinois.. 2 to 1 8* 02 10 Various half-manufactures. Iowa . . Steam 3 00 82 Batts, &c. Ohio . . SJtol H 00 45 Five-eighths in yarns and warps J two-eighths in sheet- ings, &c. Tjxas .. Steam 7i 01 77 Five-sixths in sheetings and in ginghams. Utah .. Water 7 02 16 Nine-tenths in yarns. It should be borne in mind that to the extent to which there may be an increase of the aggregate of products from any double counting, the cost of mill supplies per pound of product in the last column of the above Table would have been proportionately diminished in some of the States named. It is obvious that, although fuel in States where steam power is chiefly used is included in "mill sup- plies," the water rent in States where water power is chiefly used is not so included, an:l that accordingly UNITED STATES. 363 there is in the mill supplies for a State like South Carolina no offset to the fuel included in the mill supplies for a State like Kentucky. Hence it would seem that no trustworthy deduction as to the relative cheapness of water and steam power can he drawn from the results obtained in this Table. It will be observed that South Carolina appears Water-power. again in this Table as manufacturiag at a cheap cost, for her mill supplies are only thirty mills per pound of product. One reason of this low rate is the fact of all the power being water power, and another is probably the saving of fuel for warming purposes. On the other hand, Maine, which has almost entirely water power, does not show any decrease of her mill supplies per pound of product in consequence of her saving in fuel. 26. The information to be derived from Tables A and Labourers. C in connection with the number of hands employed in the cotton manufacture is interesting and important. From the 3rd column of Table C it follows that each hand produced in the year 2,580 lbs. of product. It Their pioUuc- also follows that the investment per hand is, taking the *'"''• United States through, 1,040 dollars, or 195/. sterling. It will be remembered that the establishments in the United States are mainly for spinning and weaving under the same roof. But, as there are a few yarn mills in the eastern and middle States, and many yarn mills in the Southern States, and as there are several establish- ments for coarse products scattered throughout the United States, the investment per hand for the United States is lower than it otherwise would have been. Moreover, it should be borne in mind that the census returns as to capital are acknowledged to be untrust- worthy. The yearly wages per hand are 288^ dollars, or Their wages. 54/. 45. sterling. If it be assumed that the average working year per hand is 300 days of 11 hours each, then the average earnings per hand in the cotton manu- facture of the United States is only 96 cents, or nearly 3s. Tjd. per day, and 6 cents 7^ mills, or about M. per hour. It would be more accurate to affirm that the above daily and hourly rates represent the average actual wage per hand paid by the manufacturer. For, as the majority of the hands may safely be assumed to work less than 300 days of eleven hours each, and as also [353] 2 c 364 UNITED STATES. Adults and children. Per day and hour. some mills do not run during the whole of the working year, the average earnings per hand for the day and hour respectively would be proportionately higher, although the yearly average of 54Z. 4s. paid by the mill to each hand be correct. Supposing, for instance, the average running period of mills was only 250 days of eleven hours each, then the earnings per hand to operatives working throughout would be about one-fifth higher. Or, to put it in another way, if any mills have been included in these Returns which did not run for the whole year, but whose hands are given, in full as if employed for the whole year, this would lessen the apparent average earnings per annum, and due allowance for such a fact would proportionately increase the rates above-mentioned. Moreover, in mills working less than sixty-six hours per week the rate per hour would proportionately exceed the above rate of 4cZ. If it be assum.ed that the earnings of adults are for men as 3, and for women as 2, to those of children represented by unity, it will be found that according to these special statistics in Table A — D. c. Men earn a yearly average of 403 09 AVomen „ „ 268 73 Children „ „ 134 36 Prom these yearly averages similar deductions as to the actual wage per day and per hour can be made as follows : — £ s. d. = 75 11 7 50 7 9 25 3 10 Per hand. The labour of men costs „ women costs . „ children costs Per hour. c. m. d. 12 2 -1 or 5i 08 1-4 3Jr 04 0-7 1-9- These results are open to the same remarks as the general averages in the preceding paragraph. Moreover, this actual wage per hand is the cost on an aggregate of establishments for half manufactures and whole manufactures of various kinds, and would, there- fore, probably be for instance rather less in spinning establishments and rather more in establishments for both spinning and weaving. UNITED STATES. 365 27. At this point of the inquiry it may be paren- EamingaTary thetically remarked that these results differ from the wage." deductions to be similarly made from the wages statistics of factory labour in cotton mills, given at page 202 of the Special Report on Immigration, issued in 1871 at Washington for the purpose of giving information to intending emigrants from Europe; and differ for the obvious reason that the average of rates of wages does not represent the average possible wage or the probable wages. In the note to these statistics it is stated in accor- dance with the rates of wages therein given that the rates in the United States (omitting overseers) averaged 5 dol. 56 c. gold in 1866, and the rates in Great Britain. 3 dol. 89 c. gold in 1869^ and that therefore the wages in the United States exceeded those in Great Britain by 39*9 per cent. Now, from these census statistics for 1870, wages not having materially changed siace 1869, it appears that the average weekly earnings (including overseers) were 5 dol. 73 c. in currency, or 4 dol. 40 c. in gold (1869) per hand. The rates in Great Britain, as above quoted, and with the addition of Overseers, averaged 4 dol. 61 c. in gold for days of ten hours, and would average 4 dol. 96 c. for days of eleven hours. The advantage to the operative would seem, therefore, to have been in favour of Great Britain and not of the United States ; and the rates in Great Britain are now somewhat higher than those stated in the Special Beport on Immigration. The comparison is, however, not a fair one, for the obvious reason that the average hereinbefore quoted for Great Britain is not an average of all actual rates of wages in every branch of cotton manufacture throughout the Kingdom, with a due regard to the pro- portion of hands of each category, whereas the averages deduced for the United States professes to be such an average of all actual rates of wages in every branch of cotton manufacture throughout the States. But, if I were able to institute a comparison within parallel lines in all respects, I do not think the excess (if any) of the average annual earnings by cotton fatctory labour opera- tives in the United States would in the aggregate be 39'9 per cent, in excess of a similar average for the same classes of labour in Great Britain. 28. It wUl be seen from Table C, columns 7 and 8, wages per ib. 2 Q 2 of product. &c. 366 TJNIXED STATES. that the proportion of wages per pound of product is 11^ cents., and that the wages are 22J per cent, of the value of the product. This last result is of course open to the ohservation already urged respecting the possibility of double counting. yai7ing wages, jji Order to show to what extent the rates and pro- portions of wages vary in different States I subjoin the following Table, in which I have computed the invest- ment per hand, and the proportion of labour to quantity and value of product. The Table is calculated and the remarks on it are made on the supposition that the Census B/ctums of gross wages paid are correct or nearly correct. The cost of labour per day is found on the assumption that the hands work 300 days a yea,r, or rather that the mills run on an average 300 days in the year. The rate per hour is found on the further assumption that the day has on an average eleven working hours. Moreover, the ratio of the wages of men and women to the wages of youths is taken as 3 and 2 respectively to unity. And, lastly, no allowance is made for any possible double countiag. UNITED STATES. 367 o Hi en O -tJ CD o o I O 1^ Kl 1 H'^-^ H-KkI* 1 lis t-l»i» ^M «-^-*eo-#i ■<*MCO ^ WrHMca sc -^ CO CI in -^ iS & t£^>a -Jl5>-.'!J gt-inOO S) s «^^!^^ ^^S CO CCMCOM CO f— - ao CI vn ^ CO -in cocoin ■* P4 "1 ssS" (-> lOt-rHQO OS CO CO lO so CS > CO CO t-t- oo t-M t>«S «500 :«31i3O00 f s a ua o o >o lO ioS'c?ira OO i>.oio>o ^ t-tooo rrr i>.t>.ooco 1:0 Tj .* OOU3 Soo o moS'S? 00 ootfTc? s •a «s*^§^ rHOCO ro WeOC-O g" i-ii-fr-* r-l 1-1 rHr-* ^ Ph g' 4 «D «0 OS rH 00 CO ^ n^sssgg CO 1-1 CO CO "3 4 a«S?* ^S'm ^ co^ ; ■^1— 1 cs t- S OOSOiCOCO COt-t~ QO «D>#eot-. 1>C^ l>tr-i^0O ^ H s- aOOU5»3 usS'ira liS >ftOOO «"© CI .2 "O .-^■^ocs .- i "^ £ First area — Lbs. D. 0. D. c. D. c. c. m. No. c. m. Pere. Maasachusetts 3,615-46 1,367 38 508 40 196 08 63 3f 13 11 9i 21S Rhode Island 3,299-40 1,816 76 634 40 313 39 67 34 17 13 oj 3Si Maine. , 2,503-14 1,354 81 640 00 368 34 61 ll 13 10 84 314 Vermont , 2,308-20 1,203 91 561 73 284 67 53,0 13 11 9 334 Second area — Pennsylvania 3,552-62 1,373 93 531 60 266 79i 53 8| 13 10 74 30 Delaware , 8;857-66 1,461 39 490 68 338 63 43 7 03 78 184 Maryland .^., 8,670-16 1,696 80 604 80 369 80 46 li 08 64 14 Third area — New York 2,418-37 1,332 46 457 95 170 75 60 6i 13 11 8i 23J "Southern States — South Caroljiia 3,673-88 1,363 86 684 30 464 34 37 Oi 08 6 34 16} Virginia , 1,986-89 834 70 386 03 164 07 41 64 15 6 64 16 Kentucky 6,163-59 1,864 90 460 64 346 30 85 9i 06 4 1} 9 64 lU Louisiana 2,557-00 1,033 66 366 13 119 78 40 13 34 Other States mi territories- Arkansas 3,136-00 1,837 18 616 60 376 43 43 4i 094 7 7i 18 Illinois 7,242-20 3,734 30 994 46 747 96 37 7i 04 844 94 Iowa ... ... 3,000-00 1,166 67 841 66 396 83 38 8^ lit 4 Ohio 4,141-61 1,476 68 407 31 161 49i 85 6 o'b8 161 Texas 3,060-60 1,387 37 648 33 308 83 43 3 10 7 6} 37 14 18i Utah 1,450-00 1,060 00 609 00 315 36 73 44 9 31 374 The United States 3,580-00 1,311 18 485 74 197 31 61 6 11 11 5 33 For nature of the manufactures in each of these States refer to Table P. Importance of New England. TnTestment per band. Product per band. On glancing at the foregoing Table, an important general fact strikes one. The cotton manufacture of New England is so large in proportion to the rest of the United States that its averages are ■within a small range those of the United States. 29. It will be noticed that the investment per hand, even after due allowance for ^the nature of the manu- factures therein, and for variations in the cost of labour, alters much in the different States named. There are two sources of error : — inaccurate returns of capital, and a variable ratio of labour to capital for a given manu- facture. The results obtained for the New England States are, however, less divergent than the others, probably on account of the mills beiag in almost every case owned by corporations whose capital is more cor- rectly known than that of private proprietors. The probability is that, in the Eastern and Middle States, the investment per hand varies from 1,000 dollars, or 187/. 10s. to 1,200 doUars, or 2051. 30. In respect of the proportion of product to each hand, the weight of the gross product may be assumed to be correct, and therefore that the main source of error UNITED STATES. 369 (if any) will liave arisen from the varying ratio of labour to products in a given manufacture, according to the efficiency ' with which that manufacture is carried on. This error would, however, of -necessity be comparatively small, for the grossly inefficient mill could not maintain itself within the range of the efficient mill. There are, however, some returns of gross product which yield results, especially as regards the value of the net product after deduction of wages, which I am not able to explain. But the explanation, in part or in whole, in some of the instances may be that there is some double counting. 31. The proportion of wages to product does not vary Wages to materially in the Eastern and Middle States ; neither, p™'^"<='- when the character of the manufactures is considered, does it vary much from the rate to be expected in the Southern States, where the cheaper unskilled labour seems to be partly counterbalanced by the dearer skilled ap.d trained labour. I think it may fairly be inferred, from the results I have tabulated, that where the manu- facture embraces the whole range of goods, but consists mainly of calicos, sheetings, shirtings, and ginghams of all qualities, the average proportion of labour to product is about 12 cents, or 5 j^d. per pound of product, or about 22 per cent, of the gross value. In the Southern States, where coarse sheetings and goods of that class form the bulk of the manufacture, the average proportion of labour to product is 6 J cents, or nearly Sd. per pound of product, or nearly 16 per cent, of the gross value. It is about 3 j per pound, and 18 j per cent, in a distant State like Texas. 32. The column of wages per hand do not, except in Wages per three instances, show any such great divergence of rates ^^°'^" as appears in other columns of the foregoing Table. The mill in Utah and the small establishment in Iowa are necessarily exceptions. The average annual rate of wages in Virginia constitutes the other exception. In the last case the number of men, as seen in the column of " No. of hands to pound of product," is about the same for a given production as in New England ; but in the case of Utah, not only is the cost of labour double, but also the number of men to a given production is nearly double. Many interesting inferences could be drawn from the column of the number of hands to the pound of product, both with and without reference to the cost of labour in a pound of product ; but there is not time to 370 UNITED STATES. Efficiency of plant and labour. Wages. In South. Cost of labour, or actual wage. Only pay-roll. do more than point out generally that that column indi- cates the efficiency of plant and labour in the cotton mnnufacture of the United States. To return to wages, it will be seen that in the other Southern States, considering the nature of the manufac- tures, the average annual cost of labour per hand is not lower than was to be expected. It may, I think, be fairly inferred from the results tabulated that the average annual cost of labour per hand, including spinning and weaving, is not much higher in the best districts than the average of 288J dollars for the United States. Probably 300 dollars, or 56/. 10s., would be the fairest inference, where the manufacture embraces a wide range of goods from the coarse to the finest quaKties. In the Southern States, where sheetings and similar goods of a coarse quality are chiefly made, probably 226 dollars, or 42Z. 8s. 9d., would be a fair average. It should be borne in mind that, as a matter of individual earning, these results are stated subject to the considerations ia para- graphs 26 and 27. 38. The results obtained as to the average actual wage of men, women, and children respectively foUow, on the assumptions made, the results obtaiaed for all hands. But the rates paid in the different States named to each class of hands differ rather more inter se than do the average rates for all hands. Prom the results obtained as to the average actual rate per hour, it may, I think, be safely inferred that where the manufacture extends over the whole range of goods, but consists mainly of calicos, sheetings, shirt- ings, and ginghams of all qualities, the average actual wage, averaging all hands in a mill, is 9 cents, or 4^d. per hour. In Massachusetts and Hhode Island it seems to be about 5 per cent, higher; and in the Middle States, with similar manufactures, about 5 per cent, lower. In the Southern States, where shirtings and similar goods of coarse qualities are chiefly made, it may be fairly taken at 7 cents, or 3^d. per hour. The wages returned represent only the pay-roll, and of necessity do not include office and other general expenses. Neither the general expenses nor the allow- ances for interest and wear and tear, although items of importance in manufacturing, can of course be found in these Industrial Eetums. UNITED STATES. 571 34. The kinds of products are stated with some Kinds of detaU, but the coarse and fine qualities are not distin- ^'° ^''^' guished; moreover, the weight of the product is not always given. According to the custom of sale, the quantity of a product is recorded in yards or pounds, or dozens or numlDer of articles. In order to ascertain what proportion each category of products bears to the aggre- gate of production, it is necessary to reduce these quantities to pounds. I am specially indebted to an in pounds, eminent manufacturer for the usual weights of the various goods named in the Census Returns. With the aid of these weights, and with some allowance for the preponderance of coarse qualities over fine qualities, I am enabled to make the following approximate esti- mate of the quantities by weights of each category : — Tahle I.— Table of lbs. of Product. Computing at an average rate of. LIjs. Usual Weights. Yarn not woven WaiTis per lb. Cortfage, lines and twines Thread Spool thread, including reels per lb. Cotton waste Batts, wicking and wadding Seamless bags each Sheeting, sliirting and twilled goods per lb. Print cloth „, Flannels „ Lawns and muslins „ Ginghams and checks „ Cassimeres, cotonnades, and jeans per yard Ta^le cloths, quilts and counter- panes each Tapes and webbing Other products 5 yards 2 dozen ISozs. j- 3-96 yards 7 yards 4 yards 7 yards 3^ yards j- 10 ozs. !■ 2 lbs. 30,801,087 14,603,609 6,057,454 906,068 6,780,120 7,921,449 11,118,137 3.480,880 162,068,196 69,896,684 3,097,513 4,933,809 11,321,600 8,713,060 987,784 484,400 10,811,038 4 to 8 yards per lb. 3 dozen per lb, 1 bushel 10 ozs., and 2 bushels 16 ozs. 1 Brown, 3 -80 yards per lb. 1 Bleached, 3 -40 to 6 yards per lb. 7 yards (28 inch, 64 by 64) per lb. 4 to 7 yards (yard wide), per lb. 6 to 10 yards (yard wide), per lb. 3 to 6 yards (33 inch wide), per lb. ( Cassimeres, 6 to 14 ozs. per yard. i Cotonnades, 4 to 13 ozs. „ ( Jeans, 3 to 6 ozs. per yard. ( Tahle covers, great variation. i Quilts, Sic., 1 to S lbs. for 9 to 13 ( quarters. Total 849,373,768 Total in census table 349,314,693 It will be seen from the foregoing list of products Proportions of with their gross weights that, on the supposition that products, there is no double counting in respect of the yams, and warps, and waste, the sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods are nearly one-half, and with the print-cloth are two-thirds, of the total production ; whilst other woven fabrics make up the ninth, and wadding, waste, yarns, thread, &c., make up the remaining two-ninths of it. Of the quantity of piece goods, constituting about three- 372 UNITED STATES. Value per lb. Cost of production. fourths of the total production, the sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods are five eighths ; the print cloths nearly one-quarter; the ginghams, jeans, &o., nearly one-twelfth; and the lawns and muslins, only one-fiftieth. It remains to notice that the item of " other pro- ducts" includes all unenumerated products, except hosiery and printed goods, and some mixed fahrics. 35. The yalue per pound of the gross product is 51| cents for the United States. Its value for each of the States specially named in the foregoing Tables has been given in. column 5 of Table H. The variations in that value follow mainly the variations in the nature of the manufactures, but are also caused in some measure by the rather cheaper cost of production, for instance, in the Southern States. It may, I thinlf, be fairly inferred, from the large proportion of sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods and print cloths to the total products, and from the nature of the remaining products, of which the proportion at lesser cost seems to counterbalance the proportion at greater cost, and thus produce an average nearly equal to the average of the above large proportion, that the general averages of various kinds for the United States represent approximately the same average for sheetings, shirtings, twilled goods, and print cloths. 36. The average cost of production in respect of the aggregate of the cotton manufacture throughout the United States is, so far as the Census Ketums give indi- cations of some of its details, as foUows : — Cost of Manufacturing aU Goods. Per lb. Per cent. Cost of raw material (including waste). . „ mill supplies . . . , „ labour Bemaining for general expenses, wear and tear, interest and profit, and perhaps distribution . , , . c. m. 29 3 5 11 5 7 6 s. d. 1 1-050 1-575 5-175 3-376 57 7 2^ 13J Value at mill 51 5 1 11-175 100 It should be mentioned that in 1870 the currency UNITED STATES. 373 dollar was worth in sterling about 3s. 8d., instead of 3s. 9d. used in tMs and other computations in 1870, or about one-fiftieth less ; and in 1869-70, only three-flfthsj or an eleventh less. It is assumed that the value of products as returned Value at miu. is valued at the mill before distribution. But if it be the selling price to the "jobber," for which discount is usually allowed, then the above value must include that allowance to the "jobber," whatever it may be. Now the average price ("jobber's " price) in 1869-70 ^"'^^ at New York, for standard brown sheetings, was 15^ cents per yard, or 44j cents per lb, ; and for print cloths of standard count, was 7| cents per yard, or 54ij cents per lb. This price per pound is confirmed by the statistics respecting print works which are quoted in paragraphs 49 to 55 of this E-eport, where the cloth for priating is returned at an average price for the United States of 58 cents and 6|- mills per lb. Upon this basis, and with allowance for the proportionate quantity of sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods, an average price of about 48 cents per lb. would pro- bably be fair for the aggregate production of these two classes of goods in 1878. The difference between this price and the value of the aggregate production of all goods is only 3 J cents per lb. It may, therefore, be considered possible that the cost of manufaoturiag these two classes of goods in 1869-70 was, on an average, as follows : — Pkobable Cost for producing Sheetings, Shirtings, and ProbaUe cost Printers in 1870. of production. Per lb. of Product. Cost of raw material (including waste) Cost of mill supplies „ labour . . Remaining for general expenses, in- cluding a due proportion of water rent, wear and tear, interest and profit, and perhaps distribution . . c. m. 27 5 3 10 5 7 s. d. 1 0-375 1 -350 4-275 3-150 Per cent. 57i H 22 14f Value at New York 48 1 9-006 100 374 UNITED STATES. Cost of pro- In the following Table I have, in. respect of the se'virai'stetes. Statcs named in the preceding Series D to G of Tahles, arranged similar detaUs, showing, so far as they go, the cost of production. UNITED STATES. 375 a g PI I I °3S lag "11 u IJ ftf p g-s •Si 11 .a .a el 1 «!• ^.tM J ^ 1 ^§s; S 1 ?n 111 ■^ ■Sl-a III 1 -3^ ■•9 d-S-= III 1^ HWr^AAftf CO COeOr-H CO i-1i-)rH ^« inHt pjn r^ rMnHt ^ U3 0ao lO m n U3 o tH us JrH'^ei iH CD(»HOl W in «0 ■* QO OOco lO CO t^ O (M OO U3 coetoOA I— looo CiOcseo o-*t^ OS us 00 Ur-ieOO COOO 00 t-o-* oo Ot*«3 ^ in t«us CO I— ICO to -"JiOa OWrH in OatOCO O t>CQrH 03 CO OB CM bv UOl'^M CI COOTrH C* O Or-Hr-( OfHOO-* t-Ao OCMOO I-HWCO ii-iOixa o osoiM l>- oa i—iosoi oiusco osua r—* o»eq t-QO 09 0»»Ct cp-*0 CDCtO 1^5 ^ -is 0-; m^"" s^;^ _a".2-s I '&s'a • 376 UNITED STATES. Of Less cost of labour in South. The results stated, in the foregoing Table are, of course, open to such corrections as might be necessary in accordance with the observations in respect of double counting in paragraphs 20 and 21 ; and the following remarks are, of course, made, subject to such corrections. 39. By selecting the items of cost in the different States, in which sheeting, shii-ting, and twilled goods form the bulk of the manufactures, I can give the following comparative Table as indicating the cost of production for those articles : — Nature of Production. 1 .1' II = " ■3S II ■3 1 ■s la In Maine Maryland South Carolina "Virginia §ths in sheetings, &c -%th3 in coarse sheetings. Sec. ... *th8 in standard „ j, ... asths in coarse „ „ ... c. m. 25 9-6 31 3-3 18 1-9 36 2-1 c. m. 2 6-0 1 1-4, 3'0 9-2 0. m. 10 8 -6 6 4-0 6 2-6 6 6-6 c, m. 10 7-3 .7 8-2 12 3-5 7 7-6 c. m, 60 1-3 46 1-9 87 0-9 41 5-4 Average of the four ... 25 4-3 1 2-4 7 6-4 9 5-4 43 7-4 These averages are, as was to be expected, lower in all the columns than the corresponding averages for all products in the United States. There is no apparent reason for the raw material costing so high a price in Maryland and so low a price in South Carolina. It has been suggested that the lowness of price in South Carolina may be owing to the low grade and to the fact of purchase direct from the cotton field. But I can make no suggestion as to Maryland except the possibility of some error in the E-eturns. Neither is it apparent why Maryland, using steam and water-power in nearly equal quantities, should have her mill supplies not a half of those of Maine, where there is twenty-five times as much water- power as steam-power. And the mill supplies for South Carolina seem to be low; or does the use of a large proportion of steam-power in Virginia cost six mills more than the water-power of South Carolina P 40. The cost of labour per pound in the Southern States seems to be about 35 per cent, lower than in Maine, where, if anything, labour is slightly lower in price than in the rest of New England ; but it is only about 25 per cent, lower if allowances be made for differences in the kind and quality of the manufactures. UNITED STATES. 377 As regards the remainder of value, it should be observed water-power that in " Maine " and " South Carolina " water-power '^™*- rent probably is an additional factor of importance in that "remainder." But even this reason does not account for the excessive remainder in the case of South Carolina. As regards " value of product at mill," it is necessary^ in consideration of the remaining products in each State, to slightly reduce the value in Maryland and to slightly increase the value in Maine and South Carolina. It is probable that 51 cents in Maine will represent approximately the value per pound of the sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods therein produced ; and that 45 cents in Maryland, 41^ cents in Virginia, and 38^ cents in South Carolina, will represent approxi- mately the value per pound of the coarser sheetings, &c., therein produced. In this case 51 cents per pound may be taken as representing the average value of the rather finer (to fine) sheetings, shirtings, and twilled goods at the mill. The items of production would probably have Probable cost stood as follows in 1870 : — of producing sheetings, &c. Cost of raw materials „ mill supplies „ labour Leaving for general expenses, including rent for water-power, wear and tear, interest and profit, and perhaps distribution 41. The items of cost of production for Virginia may ^" S"^*- be taken to represent approximately the cost of pro- ducing coarse sheeting and the like in a Southern State where cotton is not grown, thus : — ■ c. m. s. d. Cost of raw material 26 2-1 11 -795 „ mill supplies . . 9'2 0-415 „ labour 6 6-5 2-993 Leaving for general expenses (including rent for water-power, if any), wear and tear, interest, prdfit, and perhaps distribution 7 7-6 3-49 Total 41 5'4 1 6-69 In a Southern State, where the cotton is grown and 378 UNITED STATES. need not be baled for tbe mill, the cost of production would probably be 10 per cent, less in a weU-arranged and well-managed estabHsbment. Print cloth. 42. The items showing the cost of production in the State of Vermont, can be taken as indicating the cost of manufacturing print cloths, inasmuch as nine-tenths of the production consists of that class of goods. The influence on value of the remaining tenth of production in that State would seem to be to reduce the value of the aggregate by about 1^ cents per pound below the value of the print cloths. 1 venture to infer, therefore, that the value at the mill of print cloths in Vefmont was, in 1870, 53^ cents per pound. This cent and a half should probably be added to the cost of the raw materials, when the cost of manufacturing printers would stand as follows : — c. m. s. d. Per cent. Cost of raw material, including waste „ mill supplies . . „ labour 27 2-6 2 0-4 11 8-9 1 0'267 0-918 5 '350 51 4 22A Leaving for general expenses (in- eluding some water rent), wear and tear, and interest and profits 12 3-1 5 540 22| Total 63 5-0 2 0-075 100 Yarns. 43. Pouud yams averaging all numbers cost about 40 cents or Is. 6d. in 1870. The goods produced in Ohio would have sold at New York at an average of 40^ cents, per pound. Hence the cost of production in Ohio may be taken to approximately represent the cost of manufacting yarn, and probably yarn of low numbers. Similarly the items in Kentucky may approximately represent it. Consequently it may be considered that the cost of manufacturing coarse yarn in 1870 was nearly as foUows : — c. m. s. d. Cost of raw material 25 5 11-475 „ mill supplies 9 0-405 „ labour 5 2-250 Leaving for general expenses (including some water rent), wear and tear, and interest and profits 4 5 2-025 Total .. 35 9 1 4-155 UNITED STATES. 379 M. Batts are made of the inferior waste, which is spread into a card lap and passed through a breaker card under a lap drum, and when of sufficient thickness is broken off, wrapped up in paper and sold, to be after- wards sewn between two pieces of cotton cloth and used instead of blankets. . The labour expended upon them represents very nearly the cost of preparation and carding for spinning. This may be inferred to be from 1 cent to 2 cents per lb., or five-tenths to nine-tenths of a penny. 45. An estimate of the cost of labour for the United States per lb. of whole manufacture, or of sheetings, &c., ia the various departments, may also be inferred as follows : — In labour in general Tn larding, 1^ c. ■ ■ Ho. In spinning, 1-^ c. In weaving (inclusive of warping, iug, &c.) . . . . ' Total. . fiaish- d. 0-9 1-35 2-25 4-50 or 4-^d. Other products. In New England it is probably one-tenth higher, or 11 cents per lb. In the Southern States it is probably some three-tenths less, or about 7 cents per lb. Por coloured work the cost of labour is probably 1 to 2 cents per lb. higher in both cases. 46. These guesses as to cost of manufacture, and as to the distribution of the cost of labour in a lb. of product, would for 1872 be, on the assumption that the cost of manufacturing has not altered, as follows : — Cost of pro- duction in 1872. [353J 2 D 380 UNITED STATES. Value of doUar. Table (K). Per lb. of Product. Cost of— Remainder of Value. Value at Mill. Raw Material. Mill Supplies. Labour. Aggregate product of United States • Average of sheetings, shirtings, twilled goods, and of print cloths Medium to fine sheetings, &c.' (in Maine) , . Coarse slieetings, &c. (in Vir- ginia) Printers (in Vermont). . Tarns . . d. 11-42 10-83 10-56 10-32 10-733 10-028 d. 1-575 1-350 1170 0-415 0-918 0-405 d. 5-175 4-725 4-880 2-993 5-350 2-250 d. 3-375 3-150 4-830 3-490 5-540 2-025 s. d. 1 9-545 1 8 -055 1 9-440 1 5-218 1 10-541 1 2-708 If tlie raw material be taken at 20 cents, or 9d. per lb. for 1872, then the above amounts of cost could be fairly reduced by l^d. per lb. As the market price in New York averaged in 1871-2 for standard brown sheetings 14f cents per yard, or 42j cents per lb. (or Is. Id. 0-013 per lb.) ; and for printers, 7^^ cents a yard, or 51^ cents per lb. (or Is. llj^od. 'per lb.); &e foregoing computations may be assumed in respect of the value at the miU to be nearly correct, but ia respect of the distribution of the cost of production to be only an approach to the truth. 47. If exception be taken to valuing the currency dollar at 3s. 9rf. sterling, and if a value of 4iS. per dollar be considered preferable, then one-fifteenth must be added to each item in the foregoing Table. This would increase by from \d. to IJd. the values at mUl. But, on the one hand, it is not likely that the currency dollar will for a long time to come average more than 3s. 9d. sterling ; and, on the other hand, when the resumption of specie payments in the United States takes place, prices will to a large degree accommodate themselves to the new monetary value, so that the probability is that the values in sterling in the above Table would not be materially affected. Rather than increase the value of the paper dollar for 1869-70, it should be decreased to about 3s. ^d. At this lower value the sterling equi- valents in the preceding statement, and in other parts of this Report, which are based upon the statistics of 1870, should be diminished bv at least one-eleventh. This UNITED STATES. 381 would take off from Id. to 2d. per lb. in the preceding statements. b. Prints. 48. In tlie special statistics printed cloth and hosiery Prints in are separated from cotton goods, and their particulars are <^™™=- given in separate Tables. The print cloth is, of course, included in the statistics in Table (A) of this Report, as are likewise the yarns for hosiery not manufactured in the hosiery establishments. The following is the Table of prints as returned for the Census of 1870 :— 2 D 2 382 "UNITED STATES. S O CO ■+3 d Hi •SI o S * -^ O W O OS o to M po »n w ^^ Ol rH I— I • o 00 o s I . 00 CO '^ p-< CQ ^ lO o o o o o • <0 QO 00 O t>. O • »-< *ft CM in I—. g o o o o t^. n o o ITS o m I— I c^j I— ■ 00 CO «0 00 CO CM »-HrHiMCOOTttI>-CSr— < -S ^ -^ ^ bS ■>. > U ^2 o o o o o »n o o O eo CO iO * of TlTtdo' ■ in I— t "T CO 'TP r-l i-« OOCOOSeOOCiCOO OOI>.OOOC31C»)C> loocsoo-dtino-^o i>»oitotD^Ho'coinira' i— I 00 O) C8 '^ Ol Oi CM o tn ifs c) CO rt" eo o l-H O NO . tn in . 1"* CO — 'OOUSi-H Ql- ooiraiftcioooo OOiOWCMOOOOO oicoowo»ncooo ■^cTeoQOtCmco'f-r r- 1 r^ es oi tn oi p-H « CO CM CO o 00c0<^00000 00»r>000000 Oirtc-jc; -^oooo ■"^i-J-^OO-^OiOOO CI l^ CJ CO OS !>. CM QD O O CM O t* CM* r-T r-?«? , .2 iS3 ' si s: 'I' £9 m -■ _. E *^ £- w ,e pd e3 ^< O »S l-H kT l-i i fes * §11 ►2gSa;z;;z;fSBi^ UNITED STATES. 383 i -^ oooeo*>.0'*oo . "* oo»f5ma:»ocoaDO ff 5^o '^po.— eooi_f-Htn'*o •^ S^-^ to o lo'o tn" iC ec o? tr? i ?3 -* dOOJl-^Oi— IrH-^Jt-H" o ■* cH CO O O CO i-H 00 Q^" tC -^j? tra CO sD o V « rH IM O .0 •a N tn to d CBO" • • I', CO " ' • : • •3 • to rH oToo l-l l-H o i>.o-.cocMOt-. 1^ ^ ooo^ootn.-i Ah tC -^ O O CO i-^ in o w tfj tn to o ■^ rH p-H tn •-2 ca . 00 OOOeOeOOOfMO *S CO iC ooeotnmooeoo ,,— s. B (NOin'<»< eotof^mo "S J? ;=! CO coi-CoaTar-^cD-TO tH o t^ wocNrHinoomoco s rt Q"„ '(J* ^ CO W C4 o _fl to in Til TtH C4 '^ '«■ 1 < ■^ « 1 1 m [rt 3 . "— * OO^COOOI>."*0 QjT tn w oo^i'-.nocooo 1 1 s-t. t^OtOOWOi-HOO 9 ?5 •"* CO tn m I-- o Qo o i-t cc "3 CO CM (M rj* (N o tn ^ Q". (N tN W (NO g 1— 1 n : 0) ■M RJ ■w (» CO a> 3 achusetts Hampshire Jersey York iylvania e Island Virginia 'S Hi Iowa Main Mass. New New New Penns Rhod AVest H 1 Eh Pi o 384 UNITED STATES. Per-centi Table. Capital. Plant. It will be seen that tlie print works of tlie United States are, witli but two trifling exceptions, in the Eastern and Middle States. But the Returns are in some cases defectire. For instance, Massachusetts, with nearly a third of the total horse- power, does not return her number of printing-machiaes. 49. From the Statistics in Table (L) can be deduced the following Table : — Table (M). — Per-centage Table for Prints. Number Per 100 Hands. Per 100 Dollars of Wage. Per 100 lbs. of Product. Horse-power 109 -70 .. ■oi# Hands i3 100 00 •Oli Capital Dollars 150,300 -GO 388-81 19-43 Wages jj 38,656-27 100-00 4-99 Print cloth Delaines* Lbs. 773,430-00 2,000 -79 100 -00 Chemicals "1 10-58 Other materials |- Dollars 108,335 00 , , 1-09 Mill supplies J 2-29 All materials SJ 521,400 00 1,348-81 67-42 All products >» 612,166-00 1,583-62 79 -15 • There are sixteen times as many pounds of print cloth as of delaines. Leaving out Iowa, Maine, and West Virginia, there re in other sis States named thirty-nine establishments, with anarerage capital of 342,104 doUars,or about 69,145Z. sterling, and (allowing 100 printing-machines for Massa- chusetts), an average of 8'7 printing-machines, requiring an average of 29 horse-power. The water-power used is to the steam-power as three to eight. The water-power used is in no State largely preponderating, but in B/hode Island steam-power is almost exclusively used. 50. The Betums as to capital may contain errors to a certain extent, for although Massachusetts and Bhode Island both employ nearly 3,000 hands, yet the capital returned for Massachusetts is not a half of that for Bhode Island. But, assuming them to be nearly correct, the largest establishments are in Bhode Island, where the average of capital returned is 750,000 dollars per establishment. 51. Either the plant varies much, or the Beturns are defective, for whereas in Bhode Island the printing- machine produces some 1,860,000 yards annually, a printing-machine in Pennsylvania seems to produce only some 884,000 yards, and, on the other hand, in New TJNITED STATES. 385 York as many as 2,276,000 yards. Or it may be tliat the works did not run full time with every printiag- machine. 52. The average annual rate of wages for all hands is 386 dollars 56 cents, or about 72Z. 185. 6d. The propor- tion of the earnings of men and women to youths would, from the nature of the manufacture, be different from the proportion taken in treating of cotton goods in general : probably 2, 5, and 8, where that of the youths is 2, would fairly represent the proportion. The following Table of wages, or cost of labour, is computed for each State,, omitting Iowa, Maine, and West Yirginia : — Table (N). — Wages in Print Works. Wages of all Hands. Per annum. Per Day. Per Hour. D. c. D. c. C. m. Massachusetts . . 370 52 1 23i 11 9J New Hampshire 430 27 1 43i 13 Oi New Jersey 467 21 1 55| 14 li New York 504 22 1 68 15 2f Pennsylvania . . 407 12 1 351 12 3i Ehode Island .... 343 12 1 14i 10 4 The differences in the averages for E-hode Island, Massachusetts and New Hampshire can to a certain extent be accounted for, but it is not obvious why the averages for New Jersey and New York should be so much higher than anywhere else. Yet, in. spite of this higher rate, the cost of labour per lb. of production, as found in the next Table, does not vary materially from the rates in other States. 53. The following Table shows the cost of print cloth, labour, supplies, chemicals and dyes, other materials, and the value of the product in each of the States above named : — Table (O). — Cost of Printing. Cost per b. of product of — 'o r^S Cost of Printing. 1 1 ==.§ •^1 u el S3 s 11 c. m. e. m. cm. c. m. c. m. cm. c m. Mnssadiusetts 63 0, 61 134 18 H 3 2S 4 24 95 Of kill in delaines. Hew Hampaliire 64 4J 6 73 4 8 14 7i 3 li 5 84 98 74 w .. New Jersft* 4« H 4 94 3 S| ■ 7 54 18J 3 H 66 8f New York 39 H 4H 3 64 1 8J 46 i Pennsylvania 64 8 4 6} 2 7ii 79 10 7i 80 84 Bhofle Island 49 9 43 27 8 H 9 3 74 44 Cost of pro- duction in several States. 386 TJNITED STATES. The " value at mill " is so called subject to the obser- vations as to a possible inclusion of cost of distribution through the wholesale dealers ; and the " remainder " of value means what remains for general expenses, water- power rent (if any), wear and tear, interest and profit, and, perhaps, cost of distribution. There are several remarks to be made on the fore- going Table. The Returns from New York are evidently defective. There cannot be so great a difference as between 8'4 mills and 10 cents 8'6 mills in the cost of mill supplies and chemicals in New York and New Jersey respectively per lb. of product. Neither, although some very cheap prints are manufactured in New York States, does it seem possible for the produc- tion to have averaged in 1870 only 46 cents 4 mills per lb. I purpose, therefore, to disregard in the follow- ing observations the results obtained for New York. In Massachusetts and New Hampshire delaines are also printed, and they form in yards about one-sixth and one-third respectively of the production of prints of those States. The quantity of production and woven material is, however, treated as if aU the yards consumed and produced were yards of printed calicoes. The value at the mill of printed calico probably averaged 75 cents per lb. in both those States. In the first three States of this Table " other pro- ducts " of given values are enumerated in Table (L) amongst the products. These values are in this Table deducted from the gross values before finding the " value at miU," and a proportionate reduction made in all the other columns. It is possible that the " other materials," or some of them, belong to the " other products," and ought likewise to have been omitted. The distinction between " mill supplies" and " chemi- cals" seems to have been differently understood in Massachusetts and New Hampshire, but the sum of the two shows nearly the same cost for both together in each State. Their sum, moreover, in each of the other three States, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Rhode Island, is nearly the same. Cost of labour. 54. The column for cost of labour does not, when the nature of the manufactures is considered, contain any great variations. The cost of print cloth, apart from the influence of the value of delaines, varies a little. "UNITED STATES. 387 On the other hand, the "value at mill," when it is unaffected by the value of delaines, varies rather more, but I am not able to explain the variations. And the " remaiader of value" naturally foUows these variations. 55. Subject to these considerations, I think it may be Average cost of fairly inferred that the average cost of produciag printed ^rfnte""^ calicoes would have been in 1870 nearly as follows : — Table (P). — ^Average Cost of Printing. c. m. s. d. Cost of print cloth . . 54 00 = 2 0-30 „ labour 4 60 2-07 „ mill supplies.. 2 75 1-24 „ chemicals and dyes 8 00 3-60 Remaining for general expenses, including water rent (if any), wear and tear. interest and profit, and perhaps cost of distribution 5 65 2-54 Value at mill 75 00 ' 2 9-75 or 2s . 9M In Pennsylvania the "value at mill" was, according to the Table (N), about 5 cents more, makiug 3s. per lb., whereas in New Jersey, according to the same Table, it was about 7i cents less, making only 2s. 6zd. per lb. The cost of manufacturing seems, therefore, to be about 21 cents, including wear and tear, &c., or about 3 cents per yard. But in Pennsylvania it seems to have been about 25^ cents, or more than , 3^ cents per yard. In the above calculation the cost of print cloth is taken at the price at which it could have been bought for printing from the calico mill. In the Census Returns, where, as is frequently the case, the greater part of the calico priuted is manufactured in the same establishment, the value given is the cost price in that establishment. This may be the case in Rhode Island, where the value given for print cloth is 49 cents 91 mills against 54 cents 81 mills in Pennsylvania. Por 1872 the cost of printing (about 9^d.) may be in i872. assumed to be the same. The print cloth would now cost {vide paragraph 46) about Is. lO^d., and the value at the mUl would be about 2s. 6d. per lb., averaging all qualities of prints. It is not possible to compare the present position of the print works of the United States with their former position at the date of each previous Census ; but, as 388 TJNITEB STATES. compared wltli 1860, tlie print works are said to have increased largely both ia capacity and efficiency. c. Hosiery. 56. Hosiery includes cotton, woollen, and mixed hosiery ; but as cotton enters largely iato its manufac- ture, it is treated here instead of with woollens. More- over, hosiery includes looped fabrics. Hosiery in the The Ocnsus Rctums respecting hosiery are carefuUy prepared, with attention to many useful details, but, in. consequence of those details, are more unmanageable than the Returns respecting priats. The following is the Table as issued by the Census Office : — Census. UNITED STATES. 389 o CO o CO o co O i.i la I n •BatBj\r 'ST OAoqR '91 OAoqn ■saipnidfi ■sauiqoiau -Suin!ii\[ ■SlUOOf ■j9MOcI-asiOH "laqnin^ laMod-asiOH g3 ooo oooooo 0>«0 oooooeo in rHCO(.--Or-iOs r-( r-<-#i-< CO oooo ooirao ooooooooooo ; I— I CO fM OS u4 cs : cQ I— ICOl» Ci . O 00 i-H 1— I «C G-1 C ;«o ; f—ii— la HCOC^ -OS o : -^ CI i~- OS 50&ICO CO CM -H ^ t^ CO CJ -*l f- CO^H C CO CO t^eoeo eOOO OSOO It- CO CO 00 oo m o etc -t^ . -co CI - . r l^- ! : : ; :eo ; ;r-0 Rl OS IS lA CD 0^i-> l>-if3 t-^^i-H -^ ■ : :««« :a>co«oco«- j^ : lO r-l CO Ct OO •looM. CO •-•os oT : : :r-r -co • ■ <« cTcb-co"-*" jo" : CO ' " ■ 'o* • "cor-ioo io *eo * t^ l-< CO"** CO r-< •UOMOQ 5! CO S i iiSii i i 1— < 625,391 6,776 2,8*3 1,610 "■78O 1,616,326 200 27,040 881,646 188,030 3,391,840 10.360 a.925,333 68,641 191,219 Jsiiio IIV U3 ISC t^ OMOO COrHSO «OT OS eOQOiO'* 0»M«) •aivS. 66,063 6.100 300 "■500 ai9,366 300 24,400 i,'ooo 60,500 10.600 1,819,183 ■ippotis ^1 t-- s s ::::::::: :g :::: : ^i 000 8 8 g g » : : ; • :^ : !§ fg : : : ■ : onsaraon 4 363,791 60U 679,'900 846i350 330,000 2,018,023 713,'800 113,000 146,289 •itrei noi^oo si of 31.360 100 "'600 "■500 499,894 15,'600 40,735 2.600 100.000 l,467i543 30,000 ■nojjoo >0 OOOS OS I-*" rT . .le-^cs" .tC ."*" . ^ : : : : i'° : lOr-.r-' ;c» :co ; t- CO cacMO 'c* CO F-H t"? 1 1 P 1 1 III ||§||S 1 i 1 i ! 431,089 1,800 540 1,200 8da,'864 isieoo 405,003 193,200 1,132,«00 5.250 1,280,270 33,200 90,179 i ,,::::::::::::::: .'■::::::: 1 ::: 1 : Conuecticut Illinois Indiausi I0W8 Keutucky Maryland . . Massachusetts Minnesota Missouri New Hampshire .. New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvnnia Itliode Islaud Vermont '^Visconsin UNITED STATES. 391 1 o 00 ■sianpojtl [IV ll 11 i ■spnpoid iiY 1 |s| i»|iig § 00 i-i >-« (—> t^ 00 '*' «>— t o CO to lOt-.m r- rH -Dig 'spooi{ itisdo si li Q O •asoii-aieq puu asoj-i §1 gg 1 III §11111 1 ■^ : ■ jCT-drffT :«ioco"o«o" -co" : so • - • lo ■ -*QO0Or-l^ ■ ■s;a>i3Br p«B 's.ia.VVBJp O O O Q«DOO O in CO O OTiiJiraO O ca ; : ; ; i*^' ; ;io«d so jcT • in « • "inio Tt* 'i-H r-H O* i 1— 1 •Bpnpoja iiV .1 1,361,742 8,800 6,460 2,887 3,318,481 600 64,660 1.767.445 568.900 6.628.743 33,100 6,806,738 137,0CO 651.139 ■sjonpoid IS o or* s i : : : : :| : : : : : :§i : : •si-ttWiiS 11 53 gs . . :::::::::::: :^.|3 : : •BJ-imS pUB spooi[ Giado :::::::::: :i :il : : ::::::::::: =00" tC ■ • 5 •sua^^im puu BaA0[3 s'i 2 1 . .1 . . .8 . .§ .§ .1 . . . ::"=:: :g. : -.-^ :§ :| = : = ■s^a:;ionf puu 'sja.\v\;ip ll r-H 00 .-i 000« tOOO <0 1-1 10 (MinO— 1 l—OO ■S t^rHtH.ne«co»nio g : : : it; :rH--*;rf| Jo" g ; •asoq -jiuq pu« asoi{ uo^ioQ ■1 m 00 t-- t-o in : : : : : i"^ : ;'i»o" j :'n~ ! • • 1 J S CO 1 'a o :::::;::::::::::: Connecticut Illinois Indiana Iowa Kentucky Maryland Massachusetts Minnesota Missouri New Hampshire .. New Jersey New York Ohio FeunsylTauia Uhode Island Vermont Wisconsin 392 UNITED STATES. Per-centage Table. This Table has the advantage of making the compa- rison of 1860 with 1870 at each chief item of comparison in parallel columns ; but this advantage has the disad- vantage of separating the items of the same year, and of somewhat confusing the eye. It will be seen that the hosiery manufacture is, with trifling exceptions, in the Eastern and Middle States, and that the small establish- ments which formerly existed in Kentucky and Wiscon- sin had not maintained themselves to 1870. On the other hand, it has sprung up in E-hode Island, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, and Minnesota since 1860, but only in Eihode Island has it developed into an important manu- facture. 57. From these E-eturns I have computed the follow- ing Table of per-centages : — Table (E). Per 100 Horse-power. Per 100 Knitters and looms. Per 100 Hands. Per 100 Dollars of Wage. Per 100 lbs. of Product. Horse-power 100-00 108-33 44-00 0-16 Knitting looms „ machines ... 6-74 86-65 J- 100-00 f 3-95 t 38-08 0-01 0-13 Hands 237-68 346-50 100-00 0-34 Capital ..dollars 168,310-00 183,237-60 74,012-40 246-70 66-05 Wages )i 66,070 00 70,492-60 39,950-60 100 00 32-71 Materials* .. lbs. 333,460 00 361,348-33 146,703-40 489-00 111-14 All other materials ... ..dollars 17,057-20 18,478-90 7,506-30 25-02 6-68 All materials-. 151,369-40 163,983-60 66,605-80 220-02 60-44 Products '.'. "ibs. 300,000-00 826,000-00 133,000-00 440-30 100-00 . dollars 383,346 -CO 306,957-00 134,671-80 415-60 94-47 * Cotton, wool and yai-ns. The quantity of products is an estimated quantity. I regret that I have been unable to obtain specific infor- mation as to the average weight, taking the bulk of the trade, of each of the classes of products enumerated in Table (O). But to sup ply the deficiency, I have evolved out of my own inner consciousness a production of 19,500,000 lbs. The hmer consciousness was, however, outwardly aided by a general idea that the bulk of the trade was in coarse kmds, and by a little observation of the weights of articles made. The, estimate is further confirmed by the fact that it is only 11 per cent, less than the quantity of raw and primary materials returned at the Census ; and considering on the one hand that spin- ning waste on four-fifths of the raw material enters into that 11 per cent, less, and, on the other hand, that some additional weight may be given by the other materials used, the 11 per cent, less does not seem unreasonable. UNITED STATES. 393 Yet, after all, this estimate, and tlie results obtained by it, are only indications of tbe real facts. As tbey stand, they indicate the following things : — 58. If the capital be returned with some approxima- Capital, tion to accuracy, it averages 44,000 dollars, or 8,250Z. per establishment of about 242 knitting machines, with an average of rather more than two sets of woollen-spin- ning machinery and with some cotton-spinning machinery. As the establishments vary much as to production from raw material or from yams, it is not possible to give pro- portions of plant. The power used is about 108 horse- Power. power to 100 knitting looms ; but this includes power for spinning nearly four-fifths of the material used. The steam and water-power are one-third and two-thirds Water-power. respectively of the total power required by the hosiery mills. In Pennsylvania the 825 horse-power is all steam, and in Vermont the 189 horse-power is all water. 59. The following is my estimate of the cost of the Cost of materials used : — materials. Table (S). Dols. Cotton.. .. .. ,. 2,340,000 rather over 20 c. per lb. Cotton yarn . . . . . . 800,000 about Sfii c. per lb. Wool, both domestic and foreign . . 3,335,000 not quite 60 c. per lb. Shoddy. .. .. .. 20,000 a little over 10 c. per lb. Wool yam . . . . . . 2,230,000 about 84 c. per lb. All other materials .. .. 1,110,992 Total .. .. .. 9,835,992 Census value of all .. .. 9,836,823 "AU other materials" are to the raw and primary materials in the proportion of 1 to nearly 8. 60. The hands are about 2^ per knitting machine, Efficiency of including of course the hands required for spinning, i**""""- The probability is that, exclusive of hands for spinning, the hands average 1^ per knitting machine. The annual product per hand is about 1,320 lbs., of a value of nearly 1,247 dollars, which, at a working year of 300 days and a working day of 11 hours, is f ths of a lb., of a value of nearly 38 cents per hand per hour. 61. The average annual wage per hand of all classes is Wages. 299 dol. 50 c, or 56Z. 5s. Hd. sterling. This gives nearly 1 dollar, or 3s. 9d. a day, and 4i\d. an hour per hand. If the working year be less than 300 days, or the working week be less than 66 hours (as is often the case), or both. 394 UNITED STATES. these rates per day and hour would he proportionately Cost of labour, increased. The cost of lahour is nearly 22|c. per lb. of product, and is ahout 24 per cent, of its value. Part of this cost of lahour is for spinning. The efficiency of lahour and plant is represented hy 0*22^ men per lb., or 22^ men per 100 lb. of product. 62. As regards the cost of production, the following statements represent the results obtained in the fore- going remarks, subject to the correctness of the Census B/Cturns and of the estimate of quantity of production in lbs: — Table (T). Efficiency thereof. Cost of pro- duction. Cost of Production. Per lb. of Product. c. m. s. d. Cost of raw and primary materials 46 76 = 1 9-05 Cost of labour 22 71 10-22 Cost of other materials 5 68 2-53 Remaining for general expenses (including water- rent) , wear and tear, interest and profit, and perhaps cost of distribution to retailers 19 32 8-70 Total value at mill or in wholesale market . . 94 49 3 6-50 or 3«. 6id. Weight of goods. 63. In order to understand of what kinds of goods in the aggregate this value per lb. represents the average value, taking the bulk of the trade, it is necessary to reduce the Returns of quantities of products in. Table (0) to a common quantity, such as cwts. or lbs. ; but as I have before stated, I am not in possession of specific information on this subject. Keeping in view that the bulk of the trade is in the common kinds of each class of goods enumerated, and, having obtained, by weighing a few such coarse articles, a rough idea of their average weight, I ventured to make the following guess at the quantity in pounds of each product named, and to use in the foregoing calculations the total thus obtained. The total is probably more correct than the proportions between each category of goods, but I venture to hope the errors are not disastrously large : — UNITED STATES. 395 Table (U.) — Estimate of Pounds of Hosiery and Looped Fabrics. Cotton hose and half-hose Shirts, drawers, and jackets , . Opera hoods and scarfs Shawls Woollen hose and half-hose and mixed ditto ■ ■ Various products . . Pounds. 1,224,000 at about 14i oz. per dozen pairs. 11,000,000 at about 9f lbs. per dozen. 1,500,000 at about 3i lbs. per dozen. 360,000 at about 2 1 lb3. per dozen. 5,300,000 at about 28i oz. per dozen pairs. 100,000 19,490,000 say, 19,500,000 It will be seen from the Census Returns, tbat the " shirts, drawers, and jackets " in the States, producing three-fourths of the whole production of that class of goods, average 10 lbs. to the dozen. Similarly, the woollen hose seems to average about 2 lbs. per dozen pairs. If this estimate be approximately correct, proportions of then more than half, or about ^Jths of trade, is in products. " shirts (or under-jackets), drawers, and jackets ;" nearly one-third of the trade is in "woollen and mixed hose and half-hose;" and of the remainder, "cotton hose and half-hose," and " opera-hoods and scarfs," have each about three-sevenths. G4i. It will be observed that there is in the Census Returns no distinction between plain and fancy hosiery, nor between hosiery for women and children and hosiery for men. The value of each category of goods may be thus vaiueof estimated:— products. Table (V). Cotton hose and half-hose . , Shirts, drawers, and jackets. Gloves and mittens Opera hoods, scarfs, and shawls Woollen hose and half- hose and rai.xed Other products . , At Rate of. D. c. 80 9 00 1 20 1 25 Value. Dols. 1,000,000 10,000,000 250,000 3,000,000 3,750,000 500,000 18,500,000 Range of Prices. D. c. D. c. 50 to 7 50 per dozen pairs. 4 00 GO 00 per dozen. 1 00 fl 00 per dozen pairs. Great variety. 75 8 00 per dozen pairs. 65. In the different States the conditions of mauu- Somesi.in facture vary considerably. For instance, in Pennsylvania "'^"' ^""^' [353] 2 E 396 UNITED STATES. Proportions of plant. Earnings, Cost of pro- duction. tlie hosiery mills huj two-thirds of their yarns, whereas in New York they spin all, except a small fraction, of their consumption of yams. Taking the latter State as giving an example of proportion of plant, tLe propor- tions are as follow : — To every ten knitting-machines, three sets of cards and sixty -four and a-half spindles (woollen and cotton j. 66. The average annual earnings per hand vary from 261 dollars, or 48L 19s. lOd., in Pennsylvania — where there is only one-third of the raw material spun into yarn, — to 375 doUars, or 70Z. 6s. Sd., in New Hampshire, where few yarns are not spun at the hosiery mill itself. This proportion of spinning to yams bought does not, however, affect the wage averages so regularly in the different States as to warrant me in saying more than that the labour used in spinning may be dearer, and may cause the average rate to be higher in mills spinning their own yarns. 67. The variations in respect of cost of labour and materials may be seen in the following Table which I have computed : — UNITED STATES. 397 ^ 3 d o o O bb tttities of wool and hi-ee-fourths spin- len. One- s. to dozen 00 o 1 rH|M 0) 1 d wool se, 2 lb -M -JJ .3 Equal quai ng. 1 kinds. T g ^ s o 3 O i a J mixed and half- 1 1 bb'-i S fl 11 kinds. Spinni Dse of al ise, chiefl pinning, en hose IX ti'^ i.a §::: a •r-t i'^ H -oil, O r/^ ■ — ..fl^'o ^ CO S ^1 ill CO -^ ■* fi-' I— 1 O I— 1 T-H t-H r^ (M ^ af:: >o Tt< Jr- Oi (N ira CO ■1*. t^ 00 rH O CO lO (35 a s S 13 dS 00 05 ^ (M ■* CO -4J rt rti J—t »o CO CO (N 00 o fl ;^ • 00 o ■* uq 00 ira ■* -S g a « Tf Lo .-H CO •^ s^ (N n o CO 00 CD ^ i---a r- CO CO >o -* o t~ ts S Ph 'S r-; o 00 CO CD t^ (N CO (N S O ^ CO CfJ CO -fl lO CO O (—1 • ' * •" a) • * ■a m -s ^ .2 1 ■¥ Ph ^ "i -3 o o cS ^ W C3 t 1 a 3 O 1 ^ fl ca i .a a 1 cfl o a< III a a a 2 E 398 UNITED STATES. Of shirts, &C.J ami of hose. The conditions of manufacturing, in Indiana are quoted to show wliat is done in tlie West, but will be disregarded in the following remarks. There are anomalous results obtained in respect of labour for New Jersey, and in respect of " remainder " for Vermont. It can scarcely be as regards the form'er, even for the finer and fancy goods, that the labour should be nearly double that in New Hampshire ; or, as regards the latter, that rent for water-power should so increase the " remainder." As yarns enter in varying proportion into the cost of raw and primary materials, and as the proportion of wool to cotton is also variable, the varying results in the first column of the Table were to be expected. The value obtained for New York is low, and may be incorrect from defective Returns ; but on the other hand, as the production is mainly in "shirts, drawers, and jackets," and their price ranges as low as 4 dollars a dozen, the value may be nearly correct. 68. Assuming that the results obtained from the Census Eeturns for the first four States in the foregoing Table indicate the cost of producing such looped fabrics shirts, drawers, and jackets," and that the results as similarly obtained for the next three States indicate th« cost of producing hose and half- hose of all kinds, then the respective averages in each case are (the equivalent sterling being taken for 1869-70 at 3s. 5d.) : — lal) . . For Shirts. For Host , &c. Rn-.v (and pniiiaiy niiitei Other materials l.aboiii' FiLvnaiiidcr C. m. 37 36 = 8 29 29 63 33 88 s. = 1 1 1 d. 3 3| 2 C. m. 54 36 = 5 67 29 08 29 42 s. d. 1 9 2i 11| 11| 109 16 3 8* ■118 63 3 lOf Perhaps the following estimates represent, with some approach to truth, the cost of producing the commoner Ivinds, in which the bulk of trade lies :-— UNITED STATES. 399 For Sliirts, &c. Hose &c. Raw material Other materials LabouF . . Remainder C. 36 = 8 30 26 s. d. = 1 3 31 1 oi 10 G. 40 = 7 35 28 6'. d. I 4^ 3 1 2J- IH Value . . 100 3 5 110 3 9 These latter include tlie cost of spinning the yarns. At 3s. 9d. per dollar the items in sterling would be one- tenth more. 2. The Cotton Manufacture in detail. a. Construction. 69. In considering the position of the cotton manu- facture in the United States in respect of the construction of mills, the factors of land and building materials may- be separately regarded. The price of land varies considerably, according to position ; but as the average agricultural value per acre of land, even in the New England and Middle States, is much below the corresponding value in England, it maj'' be safely considered that usually the cost of the land requhed for a mill is not a greater factor in the cost of construction than in England, even if it be as great a one. The addition of building value to agricultural value does not usually make the cost of land as high as in England. But when the comparison is carried further, and sites in manufacturing towns are compared, it will often, I think, be found that, value for value, the cost of building land is higher than in England. The reason is, that the economy resulting from • the advantage of the good position is relatively greater in the United States, on account of the generally higher cost of labour. In Providence, which is a wealthy manufacturing and banking town, the prices of sites within the town vary around 5L, run down to 5s. at the edges, and, according to distance, pass through 2s. to about Is. a square foot. In Eall River, which is purely a cotton manufacturiug town, rapidly increasing in number of inhabitants, sites are as yet, except in the middle of the Cost of land. 400 UNITED STATES. Cost of build- ing materials. town, rather cheaper. At Lowell, the well-known manufacturing town of Massachusetts, it would seem possible to obtain land at 5s., and a mile out, at 2s. a foot. But the water-power of Lowell is taken up, and its position does not seem adapted to enable it to compete in mills using steam-power only with such places as PaU E/iver. Ths above prices are quoted merely as specimens of building value, and not as indicating the true average cost of building sites for mills. I am inclined to think that in the cost of construc- tion, the cost of land may be taken as being, on an average, about the same as in England. 70. In building materials, bricks seem to cost more than in England. The average value of common brick in 1870 at the yard may be deduced from the Census Returns, as having been about 9 dollars, or 32s. 9d. per thousand. In Pennsylvania it was about 12 dollars, or 4i5s. ; and in Massachusetts about 10|^ dollars, or 31s. M. They are mostly machine made, yet the cost of the labour of manufacturing the materials into bricks may be inferred to have been — Per 1,000. D. c. s. d. In the United States .. 3 73= 12 llf Pennsylvania .. 4 97 18 7i- Massachusetts . , .. 4 10 15 4| New York . . .. 3 60 13 U in bricks. These prices have not altered materially since 1870. In November, 1872, common bricks were quoted at New York at 5 to 8^ dollars, and were delivered in the dock at EaU E-iver at 12 doUars per thousand. The Cost of labour Mghcr pricc and labour in Pennsylvania is mainly ' -^ -'-- caused by the larger proportion of fine bricks in the production. The average price and relative cost of labour in the brick manufacturing districts may be taken at 8 and 4 dollars respectively for the range of common bricks. The average annual cost of labour per hand is about 250 dollars, or 47Z. 17s. 6d., as deduced from the Census Returns. According to Dr. Young's pamphlet on the cost of labour and subsistence in the United States for 1869-70, brick-makers in New York and its vicinity earned 21 to 24 dollars, or 78s. 9d. 'to 90s. a week. Their helpers probably earned from 12 to UNITED STATES. 401 15 dollars, and the boys from 6 to 9 dollars. If at any time these rates should diminish, the material of bricks Reduction of in the cost of constructing mills will be proportionably ''°^*' less than now. The proportion of wages to product since 1860 has remained about the same, if the corresponding Census Returns for both years be correct ; so that it 2iiay be assumed that improvements in machinery and mode of manufacture have counter- balanced the increased cost of labour. Further improve- ments may, therefore, reduce the price of bricks, if, as is probable, the cost of labour does not increase. Stone is used for building when it is advantageous to stone. do so ; but sometimes, even with stone close at hand, bricks are chosen. The cost of constructing with stone may be taken at about the same rate as constructing with brick, after due allowance for the superiority of stone over brick. Artificial stone, which is often preferable to stone or bricks, has not yet come into use. Timber for building purposes is an important item. Timber. It is an item in cost of construction which seems likely to increase in price from a scarcity or comparative scarcity of the raw material. It appears from a trust- worthy circular, which has been sent to " lumber" dealers and consumers from Pennsylvania, that three years' " stocking" at the present rate of 500,000,000 Probable feet annually from the Susquehanna and its tributaries suJquehanna would entirely exhaust all the pine lumber at present regions, standing in that large area. As regards the pine lumber of the North-Western States (Wisconsin and Michigan), a similar comparative scarcity is likely to occur within a quarter of a century. On the other hand, in some parts of the Eastern States, the farm lands are returning to their primary condition of woodlands. Even now it is known that " lumber" can on the Canadian frontier be cut down, sawed, and then shipped ready for direct use in building and sent down to Washington cheaper than builders can procure the same things nearer the capital. The following statement contains the prices of sawn lumber at Cincinnati : — 402 UNITED STATES. 1870. 1871. Dry, from yards — D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. Clear pine . .. 55 00 55 00 to 60 00 First common 45 00 to 50 00 45 .^0 47 50 Second common 32 50 27 50 28 00 Third common 20 00 22 50 20 00 22 50 Framing . , 27 60 28 00 22 50 25 00 Poplar 20 00 27 00 18 00 20 00 Shingles, No. 1 8 00 8 50 7 50 8 00 Green, on arrival — Oak 18 00 20 00 20 00 22 50 Ash 20 50 25 00 22 00 26 00 Walnut .. 40 00 45 00 35 00 45 00 Cherry . , 25 00 25 00 35 00 Poplar . . 15 00 20 00 18 00 24 00 Prices of building materials. The following price list of building materials at !N'ew_ York in November last contains also tbe prices of lumber : — Btjilding Materials. Bricks — D. c. D. c. Common hard . . per 1,000 5 00 to 8 50 Crotons . . . . „ 12 00 16 00 Philadelphia fronts . . „ 40 00 45 00 Cement — Rosendale . . . . per bbl. 1 60 Lime — Rockland, common . . „ 1 35 „ lump .. . „ 1 75 Lumber-^ Southern pine 38 00 40 00 White pine box boards 31 00 33 00 White pine mercantile box boards . . 32 00 34 00 Clear pine. 69 00 79 00 Spruce boards and planks 30 00 32 00 Hemlock boards and planks . , 27 00 34 00 Nails— lOd. to 6d., common . per keg 6 00 .Clinch, 2 inch to 3 inch and over . , . . per keg 7 50 8 00 Yellow metal, sh. and si. „ 27 30 Copper 45 Paints — Lead, white, American, pure. in oil . . Hi Lead, white, American dry 10 Zinc, white, dry. No. 1 9 9- „ No. 1, in oil 11* 12 Paris, white, English per 100 lbs. 2 00 2 25 UNITED STATES. 403 71. The proportion of wages to product in sawed Wages to lumber has, according to the Census Returns, decreased «mber.* '" some 10 per cent, since 1860. But the cost of the raw material has according to the same Returns increased some 10 per cent, since 1860. The general result seems to be that the improvements in mode of manufacture have counterbalanced the increased cost of labour and the increased cost of raw material. The prices of cement, lime, nails, and paints are also given in the New York Price List above. In all these prices the cost of labour is a large item, and any reduction Reduction of in wages from reduced cost of living or other causes ''°^'' would materially affect all the prices. 72. Iron is another important item in cost of con- ifoi. struction. Its price in the pig, averaging the United States, may be inferred from the Census Returns in 1870 to have been about 34 dollars or 127s. 6d. ; in which the Price of. cost of labour, 6 dollars or 22s. 6d. ; the value of ore, 12 dollars or 45s. ; and the coal, 9 dollars or 33s. 9d. per ton of pig. In the items of ore and coal the cost of labour largely enters. A general average reduction of 25 per cent, in labour throughout the country would probably reduce the cost of pig in the United States by nearly 50s. per ton. But this is not likely to happen. The variation in the price of u'on has been very great during the last year, but the cost of production in 'the United States has not been increased since 1870. In some places it is much lower than the above average for 1870. The rates of wages at the furnace vary from 9 dollars Wages in. for ore breakers, guttermen, &c., through 11 dollars for fillers to 20 dollars to 25 dollars for engineers, and 30 dollars to 40 dollars for foremen. The divergence of prices in the United States from Prices of. prices in England for forged, rolled, and cast iron is relatively greater than that in respect of pig iron, inas- much as the difference between the corresponding costs of production in each country increase, other things remaining equal, in proportion to the relatively higher cost of labour in the United States, and as labour enters largely into the further manufacture of iron. In regard to this important item in the construction of mills, I am inclined to think that the price to the consumer of native iron might within a short time 404 UNITED iSTATES. Cost of labour in building. Bricklayers. Masons. Painters. Carpenters. Plasterers. be much, less than its normal price of tlie last three years.* 73. The cost of labour ia building is large. In 1870, according to Dr. Young's pamphlet, wages of bricklayers and masons (including helpers) varied from 3 dollars to 4 dollars net per hand in the New England States, and ranged rather lower in the Middle States, and averaged about the same in other manufacturing States. In Pro- vidence, for instance, the daily wages of a mason and helper are 4 and 2 dollars respectively. The daily wages of painters were about 3 dollars in the New England States, ranged from 2 dol. 50 c. to 3 dollars in the Middle States, and averaged about 3 dollars in the other manu- facturing States. The daily wages of carpenters were about the same, and those of plasterers ranged nearly one-third higher. The average daily wages of these four classes of mechanics would in sterling be as follows : — Statement of Daily Wages without Board. •• Bricklayers and Masons, &c. Carpenters. Painters. Plasterers. New England States Middle states .. Western States . . Southern States . s. d. 13 li 12 6 13 9 11 7 s. d. 10 5i 8 4i 11 2 11 Of s. d. 10 9 9 Hi 11 1 10 6J s. d. 12 9 11 lOi 13 3i 11 9i General average 12 9 10 3 10 7 12 5 Labour to materials. Reduction of cost. The carpenters of Brooklyn, New York, are at this present date, March 31st, threatening to strike for 3 dols. 50 c. per day of eight hours, as 3 dollars is en- tirely insufficient for their proper support. 74. As the cost of labour for these four classes is about one-third of the value of their productions in a building, and as the cost of labour in general at the buUding site is about one- third of the total cost of build- ing in the United States, any diminution in the rates of labour would make a large difference in the cost of buildiag a mill. The rates, however, may become a little lower, but are not likely to decrease much until the cost * October 30. — For further information, see my Report on Iron and Steel Industries.— J. P. H, G. UNITED STATEiS. 405 of living is lower than at present. There are certain mechanical improvements vp^hich to a certain degree counterbalance the iacreased cost of labour in these classes since 1860. One of them is the mechanical hod- carrier, which astonished the Irish on strike during the construction of a large mill in the north. It will be remembered that mills in the United States are not usually built to be fireproof. 76. In the United States it is usual to build houses Muiswitu for the hands wherever a mill is buUt. Moreover a mill '•""^es. usually means an establishment in which all the processes of spinning and weaving are carried^ on under the same with both roof. If only the Eastern and Middle States be taken, spinning and the lowest rate of cost of construction of a mill fully cosrofcon- fitted up with machinery and ready to produce, of which struction per I have heard, is 16 dollars, or BL per spindle. This was *^'° a brick mill built a year or two since under favourable circumstances. A mill of 75,000 spindles recently built is said to have cost 1,250,000 dollars, or about 17 dollars or 63s. 9d. per spindle. This seems to have been exclu- sive of the cost of the necessary village for the hands, which probably added 3 dollars or lis. 3d. to the cost per spindle. As another instance, a mill built of stone, which was quarried close by, with half of the houses required for the hands, cost only 18 dollars, or 67s. 6d. per spiadle. Several mills, exclusive of houses for operatives, seem to have been built and fitted up for 18 dollars or 67s. 6d. per spindle. But the rate of 20 dollars or 75s. per spiadle, probably, but not always, excluding houses for operatives, seems to be more frequently the lowest cost of an economical mill constructed on the best prin- ciples. This rate of 20 dollars seems to be the normal rate, if one may so call it ; for in 1840, in Mr. Mont- gomery's " Cotton in the United States," a miU of 4,000 spindles was stated to cost for machinery, including weaving, 18 dol. 75 c, or 21. lis. S^d. per spindle ; and in- cluding buildings, &c., 20 dollars or 4Z. 3s, M. per spindle. This may include houses, but the fact is not clear. From another source it would seem that "mills cost from 20 to 30 dollars, or 75s. to 112s. Qd. per spindle for mills alone, including machinery ready to produce ; and with villages, 25 to 40 dollars, or 93s. 9d. to 150s. per spindle." The first rate represents in each case the 406 "UNITED STATES. cost of economical establishments, and the second rate that of palaces. It will be recollected that Mr. David Wells, in his well-known report of 1869, states that "in the cotton manufacture the mill and machinery which could have been put in operation at a cost of 15 to 17 dollars per spindle in gold in 1859-60 would now cost 30 to 33 dollars in currency," which was about 22-g- to 24f dollars in gold per spindle, or about 24 to 27 dollars currency in 1872-73, or 90s. to 101s. per spindle. In the course of the discussion before the Massa- chusetts Legislation in 1871 as to the proposed Ten Hours Labour Bill, it was 'stated by the treasurer of a sheeting mill driven by water-power, that the investment "in machinery, dams, fixed capital, &c., was very large, and in their case was 1,200 dollars, or 22ol. per hand." At fifty- two spindles per hand, the average rate in such mills in the United States, this would give a little over 28 dollars or 86s. 3d. for spindle, probably for the mill and the necessary houses for its operatives. It appears, moreover, that the cost of construction is as a rule the same for a mill with water-power as for a mill with steam-power. The construction account of a mill is not an account with certain items invariably included, and certain others invariably excluded. Some of the variations in the quoted rates per spindle may be attributed to l;his fact. After due consideration I am disposed to think that in the United States a mill as defined can now be built on an average for the 20 and 25 dollars respectively, or 75s. and 98s. 9d. respectively, as stated in paragraphs preced- ing, according to the exclusion from, or inclusion in, the cost of construction of the workmen's houses. Distribution of I^ this rate of 20 dollars per spindle it is probable cost of con. that 4 dollars, or 15s., would be for land; 7 dollars, or struction. ^Gs. gd., for buildiugs ; 6 dollars, or 22s. 6d., for machinery; 1 dol. 50 c, or 5s. 7id. for power; 1 dol. 50 c, or 5s. T^d., for sundries to complete and start. The recent rise in iron would probably add nearly one-third, or 2 to 2^ dollars, to this 7| dollars for machinery and power, making the rate per spindle 22 or 22J dollars, or M. 2s. 6d. to 4Z. 4s. 5d. Items of cost I am enabled to insert here, before closing my Report, tfon""^'""^' ^ P'''^ formd statement of the cost of construction of a UNITED STATES. 407 cotton mill of 41,784 spindles and 1,008 looms, exclusive of real estate, for which. I am indebted to the courtesy of an eminent manufacturer. Cost of a 41,784 Spindle-Mill in 1871. D. c. f s. d. For Buildings complete 284,575 93 53,357 19 9 Maohinevy 247,792 02 46,461 Engine 23,604 22 4,407 9 Boilers 12,610 02 2,364 7 6 Shafting 13,183 26 2,471 17 3 Belting 11,365 04 2,130 18 11 Steam and gas pipes 10,066 24 1,887 8 5 Fire pumps and hose 6,000 00 1,125 Bobbins 3,000 00 562 10 Reeds and heddles 5,000 00 937 10 Tools for repairs, for gra ding, &c., and for sundry supplief , for start- ing mill * * * 26,014 55 4,877 14 7 Total . 643,111 28 120,583 7 2 This gives a rate for the items named of 15 dol. 39 c, or 2Z. 17s. Q\d. per spindle. I am informed that there should be added for cost at present time 25 per cent, on the above cost of machinery, engine, boilers, shafting and belting, say, 77,113 dol. 64 c, making a total of 720,224 dol. 92 c, or 135,042L .3s. Qd., and giving a rate of 17 dol. 24 c, or 3/. 4s. M, per spindle.* h. Plant. 76. The machinery for the motive power will be noticed in the next sub-division. The machinery for spinning and weaving cotton differs in some respects Difference from that which one usually sees in Europe, and in Ameiioan several cases seems to differ with advantage to the- ^'''"'*^' American manufacturer. The differences which are the most striking to an unmanufacturing observer are the railway for the cards, the ring and its traveller, the improved spindles, and the fancy looms. It should be noticed that the stop motion is always applied whenever it is practicable to do so, and can be seen on cards, looms, reelers, &c. In the preparing department the openers are often Blowing plant. * October 30. — This rise in the price of iron has been succeeded by a decline to as low a point as in 1871. — J. P. H. G. 408 UNITED STATES. from England of the latest approved form, usually in combination with scutchers (pickers) and lappers. But there are some excellent machiaes of American make. Of these Kitson's compound opener and lapper seems to obtain much favour. The maker claims for it that it opens and cleans 300 lbs. per hour and puts them up into laps, which do not vary a quarter of an ounce to the yard, at the cost of only one mill (•04<5d.) per lb. of produced cloth. It does as much work as the ordinary breaker lappers and an opener, and does better work than they do. This has beaters; the toothed cylinders do not seem to be in favour. In some mUls the laps are mechanically carried up a kind of ladder to the cards. Where scutchers are stiU separately used, they are built lighter than the English. There are several forms of finishers, scutchers, and lappers. The opinion, however, seems to be gaining ground that it is better to perform all these operations at one operation. In some mills the selvages are cut even and the waste put through the machine again. Carding plant. The Carding engines are universally single carders and smaller than is usual in England, and generally have 36-inch cylinders. They are, or will soon be, self- strippers. They are almost exclusively, if not exclusively, of American make. There are some differences between them and English forms. It is claimed for them that Cards lighter, they are lighter built, are cheaper in cost, can run with economy quicker, and do better work than the English. In some mills the breaker cards deliver two slivers uistead of one. In this the two slivers are placed on a new machine and rolled up three on a side, thus trebling instead of doubling for the finisher. But usually the card engines are connected together by the " railway" of American origin with an " evener," and deliver their slivers in a lap at the breaker railway head of the necessary thickness. This arrangement applies with the necessary differences both to breaker and finisher cards. The " evener" is an ingenious contrivance for regulating the thickness of the weight of cotton coming through, and prevent unevenness from the breaking down of one or more cards of the row. The trough is still to he found ia use. Grinding seems still to be usually done with the slow emery roller. A gu*l at 5 dollars a week instead of a man at 10 dollars can mind self-stripping UNITED STATES. 409 cards with railway evener arrangements. With regard to drawing frames it may be remarked that they usually Drawing plant. have four heads or deliveries. The slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames, which are usually of English make, call for no particular remarks from an untechnical observer. They have to a large extent taken the place of the " speeders" and " extensers" of older times. It is obvious that in the carding department the Americans save labour, and gain all the advantages of low and hght-built cards. 77. In the spinning department of American mills spinning plant, are to be seen throstle spinning, fliers, caps, and rings with their travellers, mainly the last. The cap is preferred by some spinners for certain purposes, and similarly the flier still holds its own. But the ring Ring spinning, spinning is the great feature of American spinning which strikes the stranger. The most ingenious part of it is the employment of the resistance of the air to do the winding. Opinions differ somewhat as to the limits of its advan- tageous use, but do not differ at all as to its advantageous use within certain limits for certain purposes. The ring spinning, as now practised with improved travellers and other improvements, has, it is claimed, an advantage of 25 to 40 per cent, over the flier for certain kinds of yarn. This advantage seems to be derived from the higher speed or lesser power at which the spindles can with economy be run, and from the time saved in dof&ng. One girl minds 1,300 spindles. The Sawyer spindle is an improvement sawyerspindie. of recent date, and owes its invention to a drought at Lowell and the consequent necessity of trying to run the machinery with less power. It does away with some of the superfluous weight of material to be found even in the best machines. The lessening of the weight of the spindle brings about an acceleration of the speed, or a decrease of the required power. An improved Sawyer same spindle gives still greater advantages. The new spindle improved. vrill, it is claimed, in connection with the ring and traveller, do 50 per cent, more work than the English throstle spinning, in, say 20s. runniag 9,000 revolutions. The new spindle saves in space, cost of plant, and power, but may increase working expenses per area, for with higher speed comes greater chance of breakage. Moreover, it has yet to be tested by long running, however sound in principle it looks. Another way of 410 UNITED STATES. stating the advantages (with ring spinning) of the Sawyer spindle is that it weighs 8 ozs. instead of 1 lb. ; that it saves one-half of the spinning power or one-sixth of the whole power in a mill, and in its newest form saves a further 15 per cent. ; that it requires only fifty oilings a year at the bolster and four at the stops, and that it will do 20 per cent, more work for the same pay, and in newest form even 50 per cent, more work. Or again, the total economy is estimated at 80 per cent, of the cost of spinning. In the Sawyer spindle the steadiness is obtained by. carrying it up in a grooved chamber to one-half or two-thirds of the bobbin. The bobbins wear out faster than under other circumstances, but the advantages are so great that this small extra outlay can be well afforded. The newest spindle will run with ease and economy 10,000 revolutions. The yarn produced seems to be more like mule than throstle yarn. With all these improvements it is supposed by some that the frames will drive out mules for all numbers under 100 within a very short time. At any rate ring spinning is fast superseding mule spinning.* Mules. The mules are self-acting, usually of English pattern, and frequently of English make. American machinists have modified them and sometimes simplified them, but there appears to be no such appreciable improvement from these modifications as to do away with the general preference for the English patterns, usually Piatt Brothers or Higgins patterns. There are several attempts being now made to achieve a machine for continuous spinning. Two, if not three of them, are said to be Of promise. One which can be adapted to cotton, woollen, and worsted, will, it is affirmed, save one-half of the labour in spinning. Eor a second, which can be applied to wooUen and, doubtfully, to cotton, as much is claimed. 78. In the preparation for weaving, a new warping machine, with one skilled man and two boys, does two- and-a-half times as much work as the upright mill, and in addition, links the work. The continuous warper is of American origin. There are one or two new forms of spooling machines which are said to have advantages. siashrts. The " slasher," with its warper, is driving out the usual " dressers." It has already had some American improve- * See also trials in paragraph 272. Continuou spinning. Wai'iwrs. UNITED STATES. ' 411 meats put upon it — puts the mark on in the dry, and has in the warper a half-speed pulley instead of some compHcated gearing. It seems to work up to 800 pieces of 45 yards per day, and is said to do the work of ten or eleven dressers. In weaving, the English Bradford looms seem to be Weaving plant, often selected for print cloth, whilst the American Crompton looms seem to have the larger share of favour for fancy weaving. The looms of American make seem Looms lighter, to be more lightly built, and the reason is said to be that the American iron is better than the English, and — size for size — stronger, or — strength for strength — lighter. Whether or not the fact be characteristic of the iron used in the English machinery, it appears that a frequent gj^'^l^^^^^n*^ ground of complaint arises out of the brittleness of "^'^ English machines imported, for they not seldom break from the jolting between the station and the mill. The American iron for such machines is usually a mixture of native iron and Scotch pig. In consequence of the looms being lighter than the English, they are run with a saving Saving of of power which is said to be sometimes as much as 50 ^'"'^'^' per cent. Except in the print cloth looms, it is claimed (apparently with reason) that the American looms, like the cards, excel the English looms. The newest improve- ment in the Crompton looms is in the heddles (harness) ; and consists in a new mechanical action which works better, and in a saving of material. The speed is not thereby increased, but power is saved and a better article is produced. The drop shuttle-box is preferred to the l-evolving. In competition with the Crompton looms are some other looms such as the Knowles' looms, and in their rivalry a yet better loom wiU, it is said, soon be introduced. It will be remembered that the seK-actiag temples were in use in the United States long before they were in England. The print looms work successfully to 180 and even Print looms. 200 picks a minute. The fancy looms run on ginghams Fancy looms. from 135 to 145 picks, and on shawls and fancy work (with six-shuttle-box) from 130 to 135 picks a minute. The older looms in use do not reach this average ; for instance, some looms running on ginghams make only 30 yards a day of 11 hours, at 105 picks a minute. The Lowell Statistics for 1872 record the medium produce of a loom, No. 14 yarn, as 45 yards, and No. 30 yarn as [353J 2 i 412 UNITED STATES. Nappers, &c. Bleaching and dyeing. Printing. Knitting machines. Fire precsu- tions. American improvements. 30 yards per day ; the week being taken at 62 to 64 hours. Narrow fabric looms Avill be referred to under silk. Gigs (vide also "Wool Plant) of English pattern and make are usually preferred to the American. There is an American napping machine (Ladd's) used for cotton flannel, which is said to have advantages. It takes up a smaller space, and is less liable to disarrangement than other machines : it maps both sides, and has a con- trivance for adjusting the pile. 79. In bleaching and dyeing there is little for an un- technical observer to notice, except that in one mill, and perhaps in others, the comfort of the hands is secured by covering in the vats and carrying the steam off ia shafts. The pleasure of beiug able to -see more than half a dozen feet in a dyehouse is a peculiarly agreeable sensation. 80. In printing, the plant is said to be about the same as in England. The printing machines are each run with separate power, and can print 360 to 400 pieces' a day. Aging is effected by hot rooms, except for special goods. Siageing is usually accomplished by the red-hot cyhnder, but in one instance, at least, is accom- plished by passing the calico through a carbolic acid gas flame as well as over the red-hot cylinder. The finishers do the starching, dyeing, and ironing iu one operation, and some have a jigger movement to pull the fabric straight. There is a new machine for seaming the calico, which joins the pieces and sews the seams, and makes the mark. It works more quickly than the older machines, and has suppressed one out of two girls. The new folding machiaes measure as well as fold. 81. In hosiery, the circular knitting machine is said to produce twenty -four dozen a week. The precautions against fire in a New England mill are a system of sprinkling pipes along each ceiling, attached hose on each floor, and iron ladders on the outside walls from top to bottom. Each floor can be separately sprinkled by a valve arrangement in the yard. 82. Before proceeding to inquire into the cost of cotton machinery in the United States, it is of interest to remark that the improvements in the machinery are mostly of American origin. May not, in addition to the usually assigned causes, the better system of patents in UNITED STATES. 413 the United States have had something to do with this result ? In the Preparation department the variety of ma- cost of chines is large, and the cost is likewise varied. The "achmerym /• n . . ° ' n A ■ 1 1 • -j-i "lowing and lollowmg IS a list of American-made machines, with carding. prices, extracted from the Bridesburg Table of Analogous Machines and Prices, ia the third division of this part of the Report : — Dols. £ s. d. In Pennsyl Opener 600 112 10 vania. Scutchers 250 46 17 6 Lapper (1 beater), 36-incli. , 300 56 6 „ (2 beaters) 1,200 226 Carding engines, 36-inch, with 18 flats, 2;^-inch 210 39 7 6 „ ,, with 4 workers, self- strippers 450 84 7 6 Frame and slide-rent for cards 120 22 10 Kailway for cards, per card 13 2 5 Card grinder, iron cylinder. . 120 22 10 Drawing frames, 2 heads, each 125 23 8 9 1» )) V 7) 15 • ■ 160 28 2 6 Railway drawing bead, four rollers, and evener 350 65 12 6 Counter 1st speeder, 16 bobbins, 2 sets rollers. . 440 82 10 )1 )) 1-^ )5 2 ,, ^ 385 72 3 9 Slabbing frame, 68 spindles, 10-inch bobbin per spindle 20 3 15 Fly frame, 120 spindles, 1-inch bobbin per spindle 13 2 8 9 Prom New England I have been courteously favoured in i^ew with the prices for the following machines, without dis- ^"si*" • tinction between foreign and native : — Carding engines, 36-inch . . Lapping machines, 36-inch, 3 beaters Drawing frames, 3 heads . . Double speeders, per spindle Extensers (or substitutes) . . £ s. d. 39 7 6 243 15 39 7 6 3 2 12 6 And also with the following prices of best machines for fine numbers in 1871 : — 2 P 2 414, UNITED STATES. In Lowell. In spinning. Dols. c. £ s. d. Opener (and scutcher) 1,186 50 222, 9 5 Lap machine, 36-inch, 2 beaters 1,243 00 233 1 3 „ „ 1 beater 1,050 90 197 .0 11 Coupler and lap machine . . 1,480 00 277 10 Derby doubler 97T 45 183 5 5 Cards, self-stripping, complete 265 85 49 17 5 Railway heads, per 8 cards 265 00 49 ' 13 9 Heads, 1st drawing 220 00 41 5 „ 2nd „ 230 00 43 2 6 Slubbers, 40 spindles, each. . 19 21 3 12 First intermediate, 102 14 12 2 12 9 Second „ 120 9 72 1 16 6 .Tack frames, 160 7 91 1 9 8 The prices in Lowell, as seen from comparative Table in the third division of this Part, are as follows : — Pkices of Machinery at Lowell, 1872-73.' Dols. £ s. d. Scutcher or spreading machine , , , , 1,650 309 7 6 Carding engine, 37 inches broad, 36 inches diameter 210 39 7 6 Lapper . . 650 121 17 6 Drawing frame, 3 heads 500 93 15 Speeder, 24 spindles 800 150 Second speeder, 36 spindles 850 . 159 7 6 83. In the Spinning department I am enabled to quote from the same sources respectively, prices as follows : — UNITED STATES. 415 Of American-made machines — Ringf frame throstles, 204 spindles, per spindle Self-acting mules, 500 spindles, l|-inch gauge per spindle . . Doubler and twister, 48 spindles, 5-incli bobbins, 3-inch heads. . Doubler and twister, 96 spindles, 5-inch bobbins, 3 -inch heads. . Eeels, for bobbins, 60 spindles, Jenks' patent Yam press, improved . . Of machines without distinction of origin — Ring throstle spindles for frames, each Mules, spindles, each Of the same for fine numbers in 1871 — Self-acting mules, per spindle . , Of machines at Lowell — Spinning frames, 128 spindles Dels. c. 4 50 3 20 425 00 750 00 175 00 60 00 3 50 2 75 2 53 575 00 £ s. d. In Pennsyl- vania. 16 lOi 12 79 13 9 140 12 6 32 16 3 11 5 In New 13 14 England. 10 3f 9 6 107 16 3 At LoweU. 84. In the Dressing and Weaving departments I am j„ dressing similarly enabled to quote prices, as follows : — and weaving, Of American-made machines — Spooling frame, 30 spools with spindles . . Warping mill, 180 eyes, 20 yards Sizing troughs with iron squeezers and pipes Dressers, with equipment Warping mill with drop wires . . Beaming machine Looms — 35-inch or 40-inch, plain goods 40-inch, fancy goods . 40-inch, for satinets top mounting 40-inch, fancy, with 2, 3, 4 shuttle- drop boxes for trowserings, vests, Jenks' patent Jacquard"s fancy table-cloth loom Of machines without distinction of origin- Dresser, with warper . . Slashers, according to equipment Looms, including mounting Dols. c. £ s. "• In Pennsyl 300 00 56 6 ft • " vania. 200 00 37 10 150 00 28 2 6 1,100 00 206 5 170 00 31 17 6 160 00 30 65 00 12 3 9 85 GO 15 18 9 to to 100 00 18 15 100 00 18 15 100 00 18 15 115 00 21 11 3 120 00 22 10 95 00 17 16 3 600 00 112 10 1,600 00 300 to to 2,600 00 487 10 85 00 15 8 9 to to 120 00 22 10 416 UNITED STATES. At Lowell. Of the same for fine numbers in 1871- _ Dols. c . £ s. d. Spoolers, 100 spindles . Warpers Sizing mach.ines (slasher ?) Looms, 40-inoh per spindle 2 70 200 00 2,288 25 80 00 10 37 10 429 1 15 H Of machines at Lowell — Warping mill, complete Looms , , , , 250 00 86 00 46 17 16 2 6 6 Distribution of plant. List of machines in mill. I regret that I am not able to complete the sketcli of the plant in cotton manufacturing by prices of machines for printing and hosiery. 85. The kind and proportionate number of each class of machinery in a mill vary much, and even on the same class of goods, for no two nulls are alike. In certain local statistics the following proportions appear : — Mill No. 1 (print cloths)— 1 Opener. 4 Scutchers and lappers. 96 Cards. 28,000 Spindles, 28s to 34s (4 to 5,000 revolutions). 590 Looms (150 picks). Mill No. 2 (print cloths)— 1 1 Scutchers and lappers. 310 Cards. 83,400 Spindles. Mill. Print cloths . . Spindles. Looms. 1.. 105,568 2,583 2.. Sheetings, drillings and shirtings, Nos. 10 to 37 77,002 2,091 3.. Sheetings, drillings, and shirtings. No. 14 . . 27,088 764 4.. Sheetings, jeans, ginghams, cotton, flannel. &e. 33,280 750 5.. Ginghams 9,000 300 6.. Yam, Nos. 8 to 25, cards 32 17,000 7.. Sheetings, drillings and shirtings, and printers, 30 to 40 . . 92,060 2,000 Moreover, I have been favoured by the following list of machinery in a mill for fine sheeting, producing the best class of shirting, in the United States, 100 by 100 picks, 28 warp, 36 weft, all mules : — UNITED STATES. 417 1 Van Winkle opener. 1 First lapper. 2 Second lappers. 52 Carding engines, 36-incli self-strippers, single carding. 4 Eailway heads. 8 First drawing heads. 12 Second drawing heads. 150 Slubber spindles (first operation of speeders). 300 Intermediate (or second operation of speeder) . 1,100 Fine speeders. 10,000 Mule spindles, 1,280 spindles per pair. Spoolers. Warpers. 3 Dressers. 210 Looms, running 135 picks. This mackiiiery would require 100 horse-power to drive it. If this mill were producing goods 64 by 64, it would require 325 looms at 140 picks to use up the product of the above machinery. This machinery would in the first case be at the rate of 8j dollars, or 30s. per spindle, and ia the second case of about 11. 13s. 9d. per spindle. The prices for 1873 would be rather higher. 86. I am enabled to insert here, before closing my Machinery and Report, a pro formd statement of the machinery and its j^'j ™^' ™ * cost of a "fine" mill of 30,000 spindles ia 1871, for which I am indebted to the courtesy of an eminent manufacturer. The machines are the best, and are selected without distinction from machines of American or English pattern and make. 418 UNITED STATES. Machinery for 30,000 Spindle-Mill, Fine Goods. Dols. c. £ s. d. 1 Opener. . 1,186 50 222 9 5 2 Lap machines, 3 beaters, 36-incli 2,486 00 466 2 6 * )S -^ )» ») • ' 1,050 90 197 11 6 Combers and lap machines . . 8,872 76 1,663 12 10 1 Derby doubler 977 45 183 5 5 80 Self- stripping cards, complete. 265 dols. 85 c. each 21,268 00 3,987 14 10 Railway heads, 265 dollars each 2,650 00 496 17 6 10 Heads, first drawing, 230 dollars each. 2,200 00 412 10 6 „ second „ „ 1,380 00 258 15 4 Slubbers, 40spindles each, 19dols.21 c. each. . 3,073 60 576 6 4 First Intermediate, ] 02 spindles each. 14 dols. 12 c. . . . . _ 6,763 00 1,080 11 10 Second intermediate, 120 spindles each, 9 dols. 72 c. 11,664 00 2,187 24 Jack frames, 160 spindles each, 7 dols. 91 c. each 30,374 40 5,695 4 40 Self-acting mules, 29,792 spindles, 2 dols. 53 c. . . 75,373 76 14,132 11 7 8 Spoolers, 100 spindles each, 2 dols. 70 c. each . , 2,160 00 405 8 Warpers, 200 dollars each . . 1,600 00 300 1 Sizing machine . , 2,288 25 429 1 450 Looms, 40-inch . . 36,000 00 6,750 Total .. 210,368 62 39,444 1 2 This aggregate cost of machinery is at the rate of 7 dollars, or 11. 6s. 3d. per spindle. Rates per To the samc source I am indebted for a pro formd spindle. statement of the cost of a cotton mill of 41,784 for print cloth in 1871 (vide paragraph 75), in which the machinery for spinning and weaving as above, mutatis mutandis, costs 247,792 dollars, or 46,461Z. sterling, being not quite 1/. 2s. 3^^. per spindle. In consequence of the recent rise in prices, my informant considers that 25 per cent, should be added to these prices for present cost.* In consideration of the data adduced it may be affirmed that the minimum rate per spindle for machinery, exclusive of the movers, was, before the recent rise in Rate per priccs, about 6 dollars, or 1/. 2s. 6d., and would now be spindle. 7| dollars, or 11. Is. 2d. The efficiency of the plant can be better treated in connection with the factory labour in the subdivision /. (See paragraphs 149 to 155.) * October 31. — This is no longer the case. — J. P. H. G. UNITED STATES. 419 87. It would be of interest to obtain some idea as to As to reduc- 111 . xi? !• 1 Til tion in cost of what changes m cost oi machinery may be accompushed plant, in the United States. The probable range of price in iron has been already noticed (paragraph 72). The manufacture of steel, almost exclusively cast and Besse- mer steel, is rapidly and largely increasing. Some improvements to lessen manual labour and save time have been made in the Bessemer plant. In 1870 the ooridition of the manufacture of steel may be thus inferred from the Census Eetm'ns : — steel. Cost of pro- duction. Pee ton of Product in the United States. D. c. £ s. d. Iron of all kinds and coal' . . 90 25 15 8 5 Other materials . . 13 08 2 4 8 Labour . 35 00 5 19 7 Remainder 53 87 9 3 7 Value . . 192 20 32 16 3 Prodttcts in Steel, 1870. Tons. 1,185 1,000 19,403 28,069 Dols. 218,500 230,000 1,818,220 7,286,188 Per Ton. Puddled steel Blistered steel Bessemer steel Cast steel . . D. c. 184 40 209 09 93 68 259 16 £ s. d. 34 6 6 35 14 5 16 1 44 5 6 Total .. 49,757 9,552,908 There were some other products, of the value of 57,078 dollars, representiag, say, 243 tons ; then the aggregate production was 50,000 tons, of a value of 9,609,986 dollars. The proportion of coal consumed to iron converted was for aU products an average of 3f tons of coal to 1 ton of iron of all kinds, or nearly 4y tons of coal and 1\ tons of iron per ton of product. It will be recollected that the coal used is anthracite in some iron regions and bituminous in others. 88. It is obvious that, if the cost of labour in the materials of iron and coal could be reduced, as well as the cost of labour in the manufacture of steel itself, a proportionate and large diminution of price would follow. It is expected that the various new processes, which I have neither time nor space to enumerate in this E.eport, in the manufacture of iron and steel, and espe- Reduction in iron and steel. 4i20 UNITEB STATES. Cotton ma- chinery in the United States. cially of iron, will cheapen by from one-third to one-half the cost of production. If, in addition, the rate of wage could be lowered by reducing the cost of living, there would be a yet larger and more sure cheapening of the cost of production. 89. The special statistics of the 1870 Census do not give any details separately of the manufacture of cotton and woollen machinery. The following articles, vrith the quantities, are enumerated : — Peoductton op Cotion and Woollen Machinery in 1870. Bobbins and spools Cards Hand cards Flyers Harnesses . . Looms Bleaching machines Braiding machines Drying machines Knitting machines Printing machines Spinning machines Mules Loom-pickers Wool-pickers Reeds Bolls Ring-travellers, belt-hooks, &c. Shuttles Speeders . . Spindles . . Spinning frames Miscellaneous and repairing, cotton and woollen . . gross dozens 2,053,822 1,340 44,264 5,000 88,292 6,549 80 268 100 9,521 42 72 252 5,400 20 41,552 116,500 137,185 617,928 113 221,714 313 dollars 4,162,883 pounds Labour thereof. From the general statistics, the following particulars can be quoted for cotton and woollen machinery together : — Establishments . . Horse-power . . Hands employed Capital Wages . . Materials Products 33 5,926 8,918 dollars 10,603,424 „ 4,632,913 5,246,874 „ 13,311,118 1,811,418Z. sterling. 791,456/. 896,34U. 2,273,983^. From these data it would seem that the wages are rather more than one-third, or 34J per cent., and the materials nearly two-fifths, or 40 per cent., of the value UNITED STATES. 421 of the product. Tlie average annual wage per hand is about 509 dollars, or about 86/. 16s. The sterling is Wages therein. found at the average exchange for 1869-70. The machiae shops' of the United States are weU equipped, organized, and managed, and certain establish- ments not only rival European, but even, in some respects, excel the best in England. With larger experience will come greater average economy of manufacture. But the Reduction of cost of production can only be materially cheapened, as in ™^'' other manufactures, by an increase of labour-saving machinery, and a decrease of the cost of living. 90. As regards imported machines, the tariff is said imported to add, on an average, one-third to their value. Not- "'*<='"°^'7- withstanding this duty, many English machines are said to cost less ia the mill than the similar or analogous American machines. As may be inferred from the state- ment of machines made in the United States, and the fact of an estimated importation* of about 2,000,000 dollars, or 417,000Z. annually of cotton, woollen, and worsted machinery, the cotton machinery in the United States is, to some extent, English, except in respect of cards and looms. Except in a few cases, the cost of Cost of. American-made machines is said to exceed that of analo- gous English machines on an average by about 30 per cent. This excess does not seem to be caused by any inordinate profits of the machine makers, but by the cost of material and labour. Eor in the discussion before Position of the Massachusetts Legislature as to the proposed Ten mMh^°ho Hours Labour Bill, a machine-maker testified that the ^^^ "^^ ^ °^° loss of one hour's production a day would ruin him in competition with machine shops in other parts of the Union, and also that his profits in the years 1868-71 had not exceeded one-eleventh of the wages he had paid out. If this statement hold true of the aggregate production of cotton and woollen machinery, then the profits (including interest) of the machine shops of the United States were, in that period, on an average about 16 per cent, on the returned capital, that rate being calculated from the returned wages in the 1870 Census. 91. A machine has been recently patented by a Craven patent. Mr. Craven, I believe, for preparing unginned cotton for * " Machinery," in 1871, is retiirned at 900,000 dol., and unspecified iron and steel manufactures at 4,900,000 dol. nearly. It is said that with " unspecified " is much machinery. American machines, 422 UNITED STATES. spinning. It is claimed for this machine that 3 to 4 cents will be saved in the purchase of cotton and 15 to 20 per cent, in the cost of spinning. If this be so, the machine will be of great advantage in the South. Geidard on 'Fxom Mr. GcHard's Treatise on Cotton Spinning I add the following extracts respecting American cotton machinery, and especially with respect to the advantages of the " evener." Eor further information in regard to American plant, and especially ring spinning, I beg to refer my readers to Evan Leigh's science of " Modern Cotton Spinning," for a perusal of which I have been recently indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Leigh, of Boston. Machines. Mechanicians have always disagreed as to the best mode of conveying power from the prime mover to the machinery to be impelled. Some prefer gearing, some belts and pulleys, while others prefer a mixture of both. Doubtless each system has its advantages. All agree that, to convey the power by the shortest possible train, first to the heaviest and then the lighter machinery, is correct both in theory and practice. Whatever system is adopted, the mode of finding the proper gears, pulleys, speed, &c., is substantially the same. Many prefer very light, well-balanced puUeys and shafting, and counterbalance the want of weight and strength by having a small driven wheel or pulley near the prime mover, and small driving pulleys near the machinery to be impelled, which gives a proportionately increased velocity to produce the same momentum. This system greatly reduces the inertia to be overcome, and tends to more uniform impulsion and utility of the power applied. The Willow. — The Willow is the first machine to which the cotton is subjected in its process of manu- facture. The cylinder of a Bacon-Willow contains 1,036 claws ; and makes 500 revolutions, more or less, while the feed- rollers feed one pound of cotton, displaying 1,036 X 500 =518,000 claws in rapid motion. These tease the cotton into as many loose tufts, and, as far as is practicable, undo what has been done for convenience in transporta- TTNITED STATES, 423 tion; free it from a superabundance of moisture and other impurities; and by the force of wind, created by the motion of the cylinder, carry it into a ventilated room convenient to th6 lapper. The Lapper. — As will subsequently be shown, the Lapper is the machine at which the. cotton first receives definite form and size. Some manufacturers contend that the size or decimal of a hank produced at a lapper cannot be depended upon as being positive ; that at best it is but an approxima- tion and guess at the quantity of cotton spread on to the lattice, substituting an "evener" for the old system of spreading a definite weight on to a definite length. The Whiting Lapper is the one most generally appre- ciated in this neighbourhood^being easy to manage, not liable to get out of order, and, with proper weighing, produces good and truthful results. Carding Engine. — What the Willow and Lapper perform iu part, the Carding Engine completes in a thorough cleansiag of the cotton. The main cylinder of a common-sized carding engine, when carding for medium numbers, makes about 120 revolutions per minute, and contains twenty- two sheets of clothing, each 30 x 4 inches, containing 400 teeth to the square inch, and cards one pound of cotton every twenty minutes, more or less. Hence every pound of cotton is picked from the feed-rollers, fibre by fibre, by 120 X 22 X 30 X 4 X 400 x 20=2,534,400,000 diamond- pointed teeth, which by their traction and that of the top cards, or slats, untangles the fibres, and lays them more or less parallel to each other, and, by "suitable apparatus, delivers them formed into a " sliver," The Railway Head, treated on below, has four pairs of rollers, with "Draper's Patent Evener" attached, adapted for twelve cards. The roller next to the front roller is called the front middle roller, and the roller next to the back roller is called the back middle roller. The front roller is driven from the back roller by a train of three pairs of wheels and one pair of cones. The back middle roller and the front middle roller are each driven from the back roUer by one intermediate wheel. The tube through which the sliver passes, and the apparatus for moving the belt on the cones, are so 424 UNITED STATES. adjusted that, if th.e fleece delivered from one of the cards should break, they will cause the halt to move from the large end of the driving cone sufficient to reduce the speed of the front roller one-twelfth ; and if the fleece should break from two cards, two-tweKths, &c., thus keeping .the sliver delivered of a uniform size. Railway Head, with Draper's Patent Evener attached. — The following Tables and remarks were furnished by Mr. George Draper, Hopedale, Mass. Below I give a Table showing the actual result of the use of the eveners in the Boott Cotton Mills at Lowell, from July 19 to August 4, 1866. The drawing from each of the heads was weighed carefully over 150 times. The standard aimed at was 79 grains (between the black lines) for a given length. The drawing was straightened out, a strip of board laid on, and the drawing cut off at each end with a sharp knife, and then carefully weighed. Mark the result : any weighing not varying more than 4 or 5 grains from the standard, either way, would make comparatively little difference. That weighing 72 in number 20 yarn, would vary one number one way, and 83 one number the other way. That with the evener, in weighing 156 times in three weeks, varied more than that only four times — twice 73, and twice 74. Now look at the other weight at the same time, and under the same circumstances, except the evener. Out of 163 weighings, that weighed 75 7 times, and more than 83, 23 times. The one with the evener weighed right, or within one grain of right, 86 times; while the one without the evener did but 50 times. In one the weighings are between 73 and 83; in the other, scattered from 73 to 88. N.B. — ^The above is by some called Hayden and Wyllys' Patent Evener. Table of "Weights where the Evener was used. WeigMs Gr. 73 Gr. 7-1 Gr. 76 Gr. 76 Gr. 77 Gr. 78 Gr. 79 Gr. 80 Gr. 81 Gr. 83 Gr. 83 Gr. Gr. 85 Gr. 86 Gr. 87 Gr. 88 Times 3 2 16 30 17 31 Z5 30 9 3 1 ... ___ UNITED STATES. 425 Table of Weights where the Evener was not used Weights Gv. 73 Gr. 74, Gr. 76 Gr. 76 Gr. 77 Gr. 78 Gr. 79 Gr. 80 Gr. 81 Gr. 83 (Jr. 83 Gr. 84 Gr. 86 Gr. 86 Gr. 87 Gr. 88 limea a 6 11 SO 13 16 ao 14 13 9 8 13 4 4 S 1 c. Power. 92. This part of the subject will he best treated by grouping the remarks thereon under steam-power and water-power, and the transmission of power. It has already (paragraph 14) been noticed that taking cotton mills throughout the United States, the water-power used is double the steam. But taking the large manu- facturing districts, it is doubtful that the water-power Water-power. will maintain its higher proportion of the power required. At any rate it may be affirmed that in such districts the advantage of having water-power is no longer a consideration in choosing the site of a mill. The site is selected for other considerations which claim prior attention. One reason of this seems to be that the relatively greater rise in unskilled labour, which is much required in drains and trenches, &c., has diminished the relative advantage of water-power. In regard to steam-power, the first remark to make steam-powor. is, that there are numerous kinds of boilers in use, from the old-fashioned boiler to the plain tubular, or loco- Boilers, motive boiler. Of the many new boilers there is, in New England, one of some promise — the Miiller or Mnier boiler. It is a kind of reverberating furnace, with wrought-iron tubes for the water, at a certain angle over the fire, and a steam-box. It has, however, only 10 to 12 feet, instead of the usual 18 feet, of heating surface ; but, although this is the objection sometimes m-ged against it, the fact is surely in favour of the Miiller system of generating steam. It does, as is claimed for it, secure 50 per cent, more work than the usual boilers in the best mills. It saves more than half the cost of fuel, inasmuch as it will give, with three tons of coal dirt and one ton of coal, the same power as ordinary boilers with four tons of coal. In Pittsburgh an " Eclipse Sectional BoUer " is attracting attention for equal advantages. Exhaust steam is often used to heat the water for the boilers. 426 UNITED STATES. Engines. 93. In steam engines tlie American makers excel, and the " Corliss cut-off" engine lias a world-wide repu- tation. Many of the cotton mills have magnificent engines. There may he some beam engines, hut usually, if not universally, the eng^ines are no longer heam engines. This featm-e cannot fail to strike the visitor to American miUs. The " OorKss cut-off" engine, in varied modification, is the most general. A " Green's cut-off" is sometimes seen, and is said to compete closely with the "Corliss." The economy of the "Corliss cut-off" was stated a few years ago to be that of using 2 tons of coal in place of every 6f tons used for other engines. The " Corliss " is not, however, universally approved ; and in some mills other engines are erected, on the ground that the greater complication of the " Corliss," and the consequently increased cost of repair, sometimes prevent the economy from being felt. Fuel. Coal is a serious item in the use of steam engines, and, as has been before remarked, is usually taken in the large cotton manufacturing districts as costing 6 to 7 dollars a ton, according to locality. Coal may, in fact, be taken for the cotton mills of the United States at 6 doUars. The possibility of its becoming cheaper wiU be noticed under the head of "Mill Sup- plies." {Vide paragraphs 112-118.) Consumption 94. A steam engine is usually said to require 40 lbs. of anthracite coal per day of 11 hours per nominal horse-power, which is nearly the effective horse-power. This represents nearly 3f lbs. per horse-power per hour. In England, with Greene's economizer, I believe the quantity of coal consumed per horse-power per hour is only 3 lbs. The anthracite coal can scarcely be said to give at present any advantage to American mill-owners. It is possible that, with the improvements now maturing in engines and boUers, the consumption of coal per horse-power will soon be generally reduced below the English average, and approach the ideal 1 lb. of coal. We may never succeed in extracting and utilizing all the latent heat in a pound of coal, but if we ever use one-half of it, that ideal 1 lb. per horse-power per hour wiU become matter of fact, and we shall wonder at our former wastefulness. Taking, however, the average consumption for the United States at 3J lbs. per horse- power per hour, then the cost is about 1 cent, or 0'45d., of coal. UNITED STATES, 427 averaging the steam-engines in the United States for cotton manufacturing. As 1 horse-power is usually said Cost of steam- to be the power necessary to drire the machinery repre- p"''*''" sented by 100 spindles in a fine mill, the cost of power in fuel alone is the 1 cent per 100 spindles. This shows a cost of :^ of a cent or r&th of a penny per yard, or nearly 1 cent per pound of fine sheeting. The average for the United States may be taken at a maximum of 1 cent, or 0"45d. per pound of product.* The oil and other supplies, and small repairs, cost on an average 1^ mUls, or 0"06'75d. per pound; whilst the labour costs about 3^ mills, or 0-1575d. per pound ; making the total cost of power by steam about 1^ cents, or 0*675d., or nearly T^ths of a penny per pound of product. The item for labour may seem low to those who are acquainted with the usual allegations as to the much higher cost of labour in the United States than ia England ; yet it is calculated on a liberal basis — the engine man being taken at 3 dollars, or lis. 3d. a day, and the labourer at 10 doUars, or 37«. 6c?. a week. It should, however, be remembered that anthracite coal only requires a haK or two-thirds of the stoking of bituminous coal. In mills of less than 10,000 spindles, the labour may cost a little- more. In regard to water-power, it may be noticed that the Turbine and Breast wheel are almost universally em- ployed for obtaining the power. There is little to remark about the utilization of water-power, except that, in respect of the Turbine, which has been carried to great perfection, all efforts seem now directed to reduce its cost rather than increase its power. One improvement aims at achieving this by making the pockets of bronze in place of steel. 96. The cost of water-power will, of course, vary cost of water- considerably according to the fall of water and the p"''^'"" cost of labour at the date of it being utilized. A greater power at less cost can be obtained with wheels from a fall of 40 feet than from one of 15 or 20 feet. The fair average of power to take seems to be a 20 feet fall. The wheels and main gears would cost on an * According to another calculation, taking 1 horse-power equal to 60 spindles, the annual cost of fuel per spindle would be about 58 cents. This gives If cents per hour. [353] 2 G 428 UNITED STATES. average about 50 dollars, or 91. 7s. 6d. per horse-power. The rent in Lewiston Maine is 6 dollars, or 22s. 6d. per horse per annum, for use 12 hours a day. At Lowell it is rather higher, but the power is really owned by the mills under a separate organization, so that the rate there is no guide for the whole country. The rate of 6 dollars seems a fair standard rate. In Rhode Island a higher class mill with good power weU situated would, with main shafting and tenements for hands, rent at about 1 dollar, or 3s. 9d. per spindle for these items. The average rate would, however, be about 75 cents per spindle. According to Mr. Batchelder's book in 1863, where he quotes Montgomery on cotton at Lowell or Lawrence, the interest at 6 per cent, on the purchase of a mill-power, and of land for the mill, will average about 15 dollars, or 21. 16s. Sd. per horse-power per annum. The rent for water-power also in cases where the mills are not owners of the water-power, would appear to be from 300 to 500 dollars per annum per mill-power of 62|- horses net, show- ing a rate per horse-power of 5 to 8^ dollars only. In Hollyoke the price is about the same. At Manayunk, Philadelphia, the rent of water-power and land used to be (1863) about 60 dollars, or IIZ. 5s. per horse-power per annum. I am not aware that the price has been diminished. To these rents should be added a com- . paratively small expense for labour, oiling, &c., and for repairs. It is obvious that Lowell and Lawrence and a few places equally well situated have, after deducting the value of land for the mUl, advantages in water-power which do not form, however, an average for the United States. I understand that no water companies with such profitable terms for mills as that of Lowell are now formed, although in 1863 it was considered that such is the superabundance " of water-power in New England and other parts of the country, it could be obtained in situations favourable for manufacturing for half the cost " at Lowell. The reason, or at least one reason, is that the labour required in preparing the water-power for use has increased, as the cost of using steam-power has diminished. Another probably is, that the cost of freight is so much higher, that this and other considerations of a like nature are of more moment ■UNITED STATES. 429 in selecting the site for a mill than the advantage of a water-power. I am indebted to " The Water-Power of Maine " for the following facts : — ■ The cost of the water-power equipment at Lowell was, for canals and dams, 100 dollars, and for wheels, &c., another 100 dollars per horse-power. But this, as a first experiment, was more costly than a similar equip- ment need he. At Saco the expense incurred was 175 dollars per horse-power ; but at a later period, for turbines with high heads, the expense would be less. A construction and equipment, solidly carried out, with the latest improyements in wheels, would not cost over 200 dollars per horse-power, and would, under favour- able circumstances, cost less. An estimate at Penobscot was for 112^ dollars per horse-power. If the construc- tion be M'ith wooden dams, and the equipment with lower grade wheels, then the cost would be about 50 dollars per horse-power ; and although the construction would be less permanent than the more soHd, it would outlast any steam apparatus. On the other hand. Pall E,iver estimates of steam equipment, exclusive of foundations and engine-houses, run from 100 to 115 dollars per horse-power. A Boston authority gives 115 dollars per horse-power for nominal 300 horse-power and upwards, inclusive of foundations and masonry. Similarly a Portland authority places it at 100 dollars per horse-power. The actual cost of steam equipment in the waterworks of various cities of the United States varies from 150 to 300 dollars per horse-power. As to the cost of work done, it appears that in Philadelphia in 1867 the cost of raising water by water- power was only 2j cents (or Id.) per 1,000,000 gallon feet ; whereas the cost by steam-power was in four cities 8t%, 11-iV) 19i^"> 3-11 . 663 Hoise-power . . 11,840 Hands , . 22,962 Capital dollars 25,987,452 Wages )> 12,572,244 Materials , . JS 19,734,404 Products )» 41,576,264 4,439,544/;. sterling. 2,147,759^. 3,371, 294^. 7,102,612^. Prom these data it may be inferred that the wages Wages, &c., to and materials were respectively 30^ and 47^ per cent, of P^'J'^ct, the value of the product. The considerations which have been advanced in respect of the plant {^ide paragraphs 87 to 89) apply equally to the construction of engines and shafting. The possibility of their cost of production being cheaper depends upon a reduction of the cost of living and an increase of labour-saving.' machinery. In labour- tioa of price', saving machinery, however, I think it probable that in such workshops as the OorHss establishment its quantity 2 H 2 432 UNITEB STATES. Gost of engines, boilers, shaft- ing, &c. Saving of power. Reduction of cost. Horse-power to machinery. Dols. £ s. d. 23,504 = 4,407 9 12,610 2,364 7 6 13,183 2,471 17 3 11,365 2,130 18 3 is larger and its application more general tlian in English estabHslmaents of the same class. 100. An engine of about 400 horse-power would have cost in 1871 from 20,000 to 25,000 dollars, or from 3,750Z. to 4,688/., and would now cost nearly 30 per cent, more. In the statement quoted in paragraph 75 of the cost of a printer mill of 41,784 spindles in. 1871 — ■ The Engine costs Boilers Shafting . , Belting , . Being a total outlay of , . 60,662 11,374 3 9 Eor the power required to drive the machinery repre- sented by 41,784 spindles, and being at the rate of 1 dol. 45 c, or 5s. 6d. per spindle. This rate would now be about 1 dol. 81 c, or 6s. 9d. per spindle.* 101. In concluding this brief sketch of the applica- tion and cost of power in the cotton mills of the IJnited States, it is desirable to state, by way of recapitulation, that it is claimed that the lighter cards and looms, and lighter machines generally, save 20 per cent, and more of the power otherwise required, and that the American system of transmittiag power by belting, light shaftiag, and small pulleys at a high speed, likewise saves 25 per cent, of that power. These savings, together with the advantages in engines and boilers, seem to cause the cost of pdwer 1^ c. or 0-675i. per lb. of product to be lower than might have been expected from the price of coal ^nd rates of wages. Moreover, if the expectation as to saving of fuel from recent improvements in engines and boilers be realized, the cost of fuel may, other factors remaining the same, be reduced one half^ and therefore the total cost of steam-power becomes 1 c. or 0'45d. per lb. of product. This reduced cost would probably be less than the average cost of water-power. Lastly, it may be remarked, that the power required to drive a mill is usually estimated on the following basis, for print cloth mills : — 80 throstle-spindles equ^ 200 mule-spindles equal 6 looms per 1 horse-pover. * October 31. — The rate would now have returned to that of 1871. —J. P. H. G. UNITED STATES. 433 d. Raw Material. 102. As regards tlie growth of cotton it was said in Culture of 1869 that " such are the improvements relieving human '^°"°"' with brute labour, substituting the mule and plough for the man and hoe in field-work, and in better implements and processes, that the produce of one man's labour is nearly equal to that of three men twenty years ago ; his labour is more easily performed, and the planter feeds, clothes, and insures but one instead of three. The crop in the field is more even in growth and in the opening of the bolls, so that each hand can pick much more in a given time than formerly. The produce per acre has increased everywhere — in the fertile lands of Mississippi, and in the worn lands of Georgia and the Oarolinas; the latter by use of fertilizers, and more through working of the land. Nor has improvement ceased. It will continue as well in the manual operations and appKcation - of better husbandry and more fertilizers to the soil as in more skUl and more intelligence in the labourers of each successive generation, and all more systematized. This being the position of cotton planting in the United States, having all the conditions necessary to success — ■ climate, cheap labour, ready access to market, and ability to sustain itself at 6 cents per pound, what part of the world can offer to compete with them ? " True as was this statement of our superior natural advantages for cotton growing in 1861, it is in a higher degree true now, with this remarkable difference : that in passing that ' other contingency,' which ' cut down the American supply and advanced prices, was to encourage cotton planting in various other quarters,' another and cheaper labour system has been substituted. " Since the war a discovery of exceeding value to the Discovery of agriculture of the whole country, and especially to the phosphates, cotton culture, has been made in the ' native bone phos- phate,' vast beds of which have been found lying aU along, the coast of South Carolina, and on the sea islands; but cropping out and most easUy accessible along the banks of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. Eicher in these phosphates than any other natural deposits yet discovered, these beds lie just beneath the 434 UKETBD STATES. supersoil, at the very doorway into the cotton-growing country. " This store of phosphates, thus prepared in Nature's laboratory, and laid up until the day of special need, contains just the chemical properties wanted for th6 ■ cotton plant, and which the cotton seed had been' abstracting from the soil. So long- as cotton seed was re^jumed to the soil upon which at was grown, the deteri'- oration of the land was slow, for the fibre of cotton took but little from it. "But cotton seed had acquired a commercial value fdr the oil to be expressed from it, and for the rich food' for cattle and sheep, which was found in the 'cake' from which the oil had been expressed. It could no; longer be carted back upon the land as a manure. The ' landj already worn by many years of improvident crop-i- ping, having this further loss, rapidly failed. Some portion of it needed restoring, and fertilizing remedies' could have been found in the ■ artificial superphosphates and guanos of commerce, but these had become' almost iriaoeessible. Often badly adulterated^ and year by year advancing in price as the demand outran the supply of the good articles, while many of the planting people had become unable to buy them, except ia very insuffi- cient quantities, there was a great and urgent need of something to replace the cotton seed, and restore to the soil those chief ingredients, indispensable to the pro- duction of a good cotton crop — phosphoric acid, or soluble phosphates. In this emergency came the dis- covery of those natural deposits, otherimprove- " It might bc useful, did space permit; to notice ia ^tiTaft)n detail other movements in progress for the improvement of cotton ctdture, prominent among which would stand the valuable experiments in improvement by selection of seed from year to year, always guided by rules which define the object sought in cotton, spinning qualities, such as length, strength^ fineness, and the cohering to- gether of the fibres, rapid growth and early maturity of the plant, and a habit of yielding well. Intelligent men are engaged in these efforts in various parts of the South, and of their results attained there are good reports from Georgia, Mississippi, and Arkansas. One new kind of cotton, the ' peeler,' originating in Mississippi, is already TJNITED STATES. 435 in market, and bears a price 25 or 30 per cent, higher than other green seed cotton of the same grade, because of its superior staple." The above extracts from the Report on cotton by Mr. Mudge' and Mr. Nourse at the time, of the Paris Universal Exposition of 1867, will give an idea of what may be expected from improvements in cotton growing provided the labour increases in sufficient proportion. But it may be a long time before a price of 6 cents per pound on the plantation will be remunerative. In further confirmation of the revolution in the agriculture of the Southern States, which may accom- plish great results, I quote from Judge Kelley's speeches &c., on economical questions, the following passage : — ■ . . . . "The value of the lands' of the South was troubled by the recognition of facts which the war compelled the southern people to recognize, namely, that they could raise their own food, and that they had advantages over those on whom they had hitherto depended for food for man and beast in the markets of the Eastern States, Central and South America, the West India Islands, and Europe, As cotton and sugar had been the only crop of the greater portion of their country, the people had come to believe that they had but one harvest season — ^that in which these crops were gathered and prepared for market. But when the armies of the Confederacy had to be fed from the fields within its lines they discovered that they had three harvest seasons — the spring for wheat and grasses, summer for corn, and autumn for cotton and sugar. And in this very year many a broad acre, after having yielded its golden harvest of wheat, will have the stubble turned under, and be planted in corn that will mature before the frost threatens it. The necessities of the war also taught them the value of deep ploughing, fertilizers, and of keeping procreative stock for the work for which they had kept only mules in the past. As an illustration of the value of these discoveries let me say that it is within my knowledge that Mr. McDonald, of Concord, North Carolina, in order to settle the question of the value of deep ploughing and the application of phosphates in the production of cotton, tried two experiments on fields, which together embraced 100 acres of land, that had 436 UNITED STATES. ever been regarded as too poor for cotton land. Wishing to make the experiment for public as well as private advantage, Mr. McDonald took the opinion of the planters of his section of the State as to the possibility of making cotton on such land, and found no man among his neighbours or visitors who believed that it would return him the value of the seed with which he would plant it. But with a heavy old-fashioned Pennsylvania plough he broke the land and turned in a given amount of superphosphate to the acre, and lo, when the season came for gathering cotton he had the demonstration that the poorest land in Cabarras County had been made to yield the finest crop of cotton ever raised within her limits, and which many of the citizens pronounce the fijiest ever raised in North Carolina. The many intelligent planters who observed this experiment now know that by the aid of proper implements and adequate stimulants to the soil their fields may be made to yield 100 per cent, more cotton than they have ever yielded, and that with but 50 per cent, of the labour hitherto applied." fo"""^^ p^'' Mr. Nourse, too, states in his Report that since the war, experiments made to ascertain how much cotton can be produced upon a single acre have exhibited remarkable and gratifying results. When made with ' spade culture,' stirring the soil deeply and often, after enriching it with guano and phosphates, the product has been very large. In one case, reported upon what seems to be good authority, the product of 1 acre was 4 bales, or over 1,600 lbs. of clean cotton. In past time one bale to the acre has been regarded as a fair crop, and two bales a t ery large one on the very richest lands, while half a bale, or about 250 lbs., was for many years a satisfactory result in Georgia and the Carohnas, where the lands were badly worn. The story of 1,600 lbs. seems almost incredible, yet it is no more in excess of ordinary products than were some remarkable root crops, rutabagas and mangel wurtzel, that have been obtained by the same process of spade culture. Improvement by better farming, to get more cotton from less land, is practicable, and should be sought as the method of true economy, saving in labour, in manure, and all other outlay, yet increasing the income. acre, UNITED STATES. 437 103. But on. the otlier liand, the labour difficulty in Labour 1868 was serious. It seems now to have passed through d'*""'*?- its worse phase and to be diminishing. This difficulty was well stated in the Memphis " Avalanche " of 1868, as quoted in Loring and Atkinson's " Cotton Culture in the South." " In 1860 (see abstract Census, p. 131), there were 3,950,000 slaves in the Southern States ; 1,160,000 being in Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky and Missouri. This left 2,800,000 in the cotton States. One-half of these, or 1,400,000 were between the ages of 15 and 60 ; and no planter will say that he ever had more than half his negroes in the cotton field. Erom this 1,400,000 must be deducted house-servants, mechanics, and negroes, in cities, towns, &c., not engaged in pro- ducing cotton. It is not probable, therefore, that we ever had 1,300,000 slaves thus employed. If they averaged four bales to the hand — ^men and women, old and young — the production would be about as much as the large crop of 1860. This was under a system of labour thoroughly trained and under the most industrious and energetic management. Then, there were few idlers and no paupers. How is it now ? Not more than half of the 1,300,000 former slaves can now be found in the field. Thousands have sought the haunts of cities and towns, and the females seldom work. "It is at least pretty certain that not more than 800,000 negroes can be counted to-day as field hands, and the general estimate does not exceed 2|- bales to the hand. Put it at three, the crop would then be 2,400,000 bales. Add 200,000 for the production of white labour, and we have a crop of 2,600,000. Can it exceed 3,000,000 bales ? I confess it does not seem that the present labour system of the South can reach that figure, save in an extraordinary season. It may be done; perhaps 4,000,000 bales may be reached if we neglect food ; but would not that be paying rather dearly for the extra 1,000,000 bales ? Year by year food is steadily advancing in price. There are thousands here who remember when they could buy corn at 20 to 30 cents, and wheat at 50 cents per bushel, and pork at 4 to 5 cents per lb., or 12 dollars per barrel. What are the prices now ? Double and treble what they were years 438 UNITED STATES. ago. There is a powerful agency producing this. Prom 1840 to 1850 the increase of our country population was ahout 30 per cent ; that of the cities upwards of 80 per cent. In 1800 our city population was one in eleven of the whole population. In 1860 ' it was 1 in nearly every 5. In other words, our food producers are rapidly hecoming less numerous as compared with the whole population- and hence the opiuion that food will not fall much in prices. Great Britain slaughtered 1,000,000' less hogs last winter than the winter before; and the North- Western States 300,000 less. In 1868 the com crop was 60,000,000 of bushels less than the crop of 1860, eight years ago. Remember, too, that every year we are receiving about 250,000 souls from Europe, who seldom produce food the year they arrive, but are constant con- sumers. Does this look like a fall in the price of food ? With facts like these, can our people think it best to raise 4,000,000 bales of cotton and buy their food from the North-west? A small crop of cotton wDl bring more money /than a large one. The 5,000,000 bales of 1868, at 10 cents a pound, brought but 250,000,000 dollars. The crop of 1868, estimated at 2,800,000 bales, at an average of 25 cents, will bring 287,500,000 dollars. It is then evident that a half-crop will bring more money than a very large one. The truth is, if the South wUl' raise food in abundance for all her wants, she connot exceed 3,000,000 bales. The labour is not here. The present cotton producers are generally trained hands. When these pass away, their successors' wiU be less ■ numerous and still less reliable. Skill and improved machinery may cultivate more land, but human fingers alone can gather the crop." Hence the conclusion that, with an abundance of food, the South cannot possibly raise- cotton enough to put the price under 20 cents for' some years. Causes ofiess Xhc" labour-power was, owing to "an actual decrease labour-power. ^^ ^^^ number of labourers as well as to a decrease of eflfectiveness of those that remain," not a half of what it was in 1860. Some of the causes were " the tendency of the plantation negroes to gather in the cities "; "the? desire of the labourer or freed man to be entirely independent of white men," usually by squatting on the piney uplands ; "the fact that a very large proportion UNITED STATES. 439 of tlie women have left the fields and stay at home in the cabins"; "increased mortality and a decreased number of births " ; "the desertion of the cotton fields for other occupations "; " the effect of the possession of money on the freed man,'.' who likes to loaf with it ; and " the loss of life during the war." Some of these causes are beginning to disappear under the influence of better relations between employer and employed, and of a change from the old plantation system to new methods. The " share " system, corresponding in some measure to "Share" the " metayer " and " parceria " systems of the old world, system. is being adopted, ia spite of the disappointment from a bad year, with much success, and the " shares " stimulate the freed man to labour. The system of " small farms " Smaii farms, with careful culture is in several parts taking the place of the old plantations. These changes and the improved modes of cultivation will, probably, work a quicker reduction of price than the Memphis " avalanche " in 1868 thought possible. The 3,000,000 bales were ex- ceeded by nearly 50 per cent, in 1870-71, and the price was lowered to 13 cents. The conditions of the crop in 1S70-71 have not, however, been repeated in 1871 -72. 104. As examples of what could be done on small farms, I append the following extracts from Loring. and Atkinson's " Cotton culture in the South." North Alabama. A poor man, on a small place, — not in the best cotton land, — by his own industry, aided by his wife and two or three children, and they very small, made 14 bales of cotton — made his own meat and bread. I wUl give you still another case. An old negro man rented land, and with his own labour and that of his children, four or five, made 23 bales of cotton, — this in 1868. De Kalb County, Georgia. A Mr. B , living in this county in 1867, made II bales of cotton without any assistance, with one mule and the help of his wife and two children to pick it out. 440 UNITED STATES. A Mr. H told me that withi the aid of two little negro boys, he made 21 bales on 27 acres, with the aid of manure, which he sold at 27 cents, realizing nearly 2,000 dollars net profit on the year's work, after paying for manure and labour, and yet this land can be purchased for from 8 to 10 dollars per acre. Georgia. From a gentleman residing ia Lexington, we learn the following facts in relation to the product of a small lot planted in. cotton by our old friend J. D. Gresham, last year, in that village. The lot contained not quite nine-tenths of an acre, and was bordered on two sides with a row of large Pride of India trees, which completely shaded the lands for several feet, leaving for cultivation about three-fourths of an acre. This was planted, about the middle of April, in cotton — the seed used bbing the Moina variety. The plant had three ploughings, and was hoed twice. The entire yield was 1,732 lbs. of seed cotton, which made a bale weighing 530 lbs. of lint. The crop was care- fully handled, put up in a neat package, shipped to this market, and sold for 40 cents a pound. The profits were as follows : — One bale^ 530 lbs., sold at 40 cents per lb. . . . . Forty-one bushels of seed, sold at 10 dollars per bushel. . Total profits from three-fourths of an acre , . The expenses were — Rent of land Breaking and bedding land for planting Planting . . . • . . Three ploughings Two hoeings . . . . . . Picking, at 5 cents per pound Ginning, packing, and expenses to market Total expenses Which deducted from . . Leaves as net profit D. c. 212 00 410 00 622 00 Dol c. 5 00 1 00 75 1 50 1 00 8 50 7 25 25 00 622 00 597 00 Here we have a net profit from three-fourths of an acre of land of nearly 600 dollars, being at the rate of UNITED STATES. 44il about 800 dollars per acre. What a future looms up for tlie Southern people, if they will only be wise and industrious in the use of the splendid advantages which Nature has given them ! We do not pretend to say that 800 dollars can be realized for every acre planted in cotton yet awhile, but we see no reason why, with judicious management and a proper system of fertilizing and rotation of crops, that amount and much more may not be made in a few years. Let every cotton planter ponder well these figures. They have a deep and significant meaning. — Augusta Constitutionalist. Mr. Edward Atkinson once predicted that cotton Sowing in hot- would be sown in hotbeds and planted out. An experi- ''^^ ment of this kind was tried by a planter in 1868, on 18 acres, with perfect success. He dug long pits, about three or four feet deep, and had a number of boxes made with shavings, larger at the top than at the bottom, placed them on planks at the bottom of this pit, filled them with manure and soft earth, and planted his seed in January. He covered the pits with canvas at night, and in very cold weather, and in April, when people were preparing to plant, he had stalks a foot high. He then carried them out on their planks to the field, dug his holes, sKpped his plant down, and raised his box out, and thus the plant never felt the change. He made nearly two bales to the acre, and contends that it was easier to do this than haul out his stable manm'e. He is a very practical man, and has made a fortunCj which is pretty good evidence of his good sense. 105. It is likely that cotton will be grown in Cali- cotton in fornia to a certain extent. Some experiments in 1871 CaUfomia. were so favourable, that in 1872 a crop of 1,500 bales was expected, which would be a crop of about one bale per acre. In the current year the average will, it is thought, be more than doubled. The California cotton had a ready home market, being found to possess a remarkable fitness " for combination with wool in various fabrics." 106. The preparation of cotton on the plantation Ginning, calls for little comment. Improvements of some moment have been made in cotton gins. The American improved 442 UNITED STATES. Packing. Transporta- tion. Freight cheaper in summer. ' ' Stocking up." " saw " is one, and tte reported East Indian gin with these teeth would probably make a very perfect machine. The average waste in ginning is said to vary according to mode and care of ginning and quality of crop, from 12 to 17 per cent. There is a difference in the packing for home con- sumption. The planters use heavy packing, and there is no tare. This creates some uncertainty in price, but the purchaser allows for the uucertainty, and the different way of sending the cotton to market does not practically make any difference to the mill owner, 107. Transportation is an important item in the cost of cotton, and ihe tendency in the United States is towards an increase of the cost of transportation. This subject will be briefly treated under the head of General expenses {vide paragraph 177). The average difference between the same grade of cotton in New Orleans and Charlestown and in Boston seems usually to be one cent, or one cent and a small fraction over per pound .at the same date. One to one and a-half cent per pound may Jje taken as representing the cost of placing cotton in the markers of the North. In consequence of a combination of steamship companies and railroads it seems that a dealer in Memphis can land cotton in Liverpool at only a fraction of a cent per pound more than he can deliver it at a terminus in New York or Philadelphia. There are projects for sending cotton at yet cheaper rates to the manufacturing markets. None of these will, however, give apparently any greater advantage in the purchase of cotton.to the manufacturers in the United States than they now possess over manu- facturers in Europe. In the. Northern half of the United States, inland rates of transportation are higher in winter 'than in summer, because, as the navigation on the canals is closed, freight on railroads is increased; in summer the railroads generally carry freight below cost. This and some other causes make it of moment to the manufactiirer to stock his mill and thereby lose interest on the money, and incur many small expenses, and take the risk of loss in price. Usually four-fifths of the supply is bought within the first five months, and one-half within .three months after the crops begin tO' come in. But in small mills this is not always done. ■UNITED STATES. 443 These, if inland, as in the middle of Connecticut, may get their cotton direct from Memphis by rail, two car- loads at a tim.e. 108. The extra cost, whatever it may be, of putting Extra cost at cotton in the Liverpool market beyond that of putting it ^"our of^ "^ in, say, the New York market, is a natural advantage Americans. which the United States manufacturer has over the British manufacturer. It is usually supposed to average 1| c. or nearly yq of \d. per lb. in favour of the United States. It is obvious that this advantage is relatively greatest when cotton is cheapest. Whenever the days of 8 c. gold for cotton in New York may return, the advan- tage in favour of the United States, supposing freights and other costs of transportation to remain the same, would be about 17 per cent. At a price for cotton of 20 c. currency, the advantage at the present time is only 7 J per cent. It would seem, therefore, to be of the greatest moment to the United States, not only to reduce her inland cost of transportation, but also to pro- duce cheap cotton, for the cheaper the cotton the greater cheap cotton^ her advantage in the raw material over her European competitors. These have only one offset to this advan- tage, the possibility of using a lower class of cotton such as Surats. To the extent to which it is now possible to use up such cotton at a cheap rate without materially lowering the quality of the goods, this advantage of the United States is diminished. And to the extent to which it would stiU be possible to so use up inferior cotton, would the probable advantage of the United States from stiU cheaper cotton be proportionably reduced. It will, moreover, be seen fi-om paragraph 110 which follows, that the natural advantage of American manufacturers may, to. a certain extent, be counterbalanced by the . Sljperior advantages in the system of purchasing cotton which the English manufactm'ers enjoy in the Liverpool market. It is not necessary to enter dnto the question of the Price of cotton, price of cotton. But it would seem that, so far as the price may depend upon the cost of growing cotton, the price will be diminished by the changes in its cultivation in the South, which will increase the production per acre, improve the quality, and attract the necessary labour for picking it. And, on the other hand, that, so far 444 UNITED STATES. Consumption of cotton. as the price may depend upon inland cost of transportation, the price may be increased. Liverpool practically regu- lates the price of cotton in the United States. It may be noticed also that the grades of cotton come together in price as the season advances. 109. It should be borne in mind that cotton in the United States is used for other purposes than spuming, and that the statistics of consumption generally include the quantity for these other uses, such as making mattresses, &c. The New York shippiag lists gave in former years, when all or nearly all the cotton was sent through the seaports, very accurate statistics of con- sumption ; but, in these years, when so large a quantity of cotton is sent to market by railroads, the method therein pursued is no longer applicable. The present statistics seem rather more liable to error from the absence of any uniform mode of collecting statistics of freight from the railroads. The consumption of cotton in the United States has borae a varying ratio to the exportation during the last fifty years. The following statement, computed from the Tables in Mr. Nourse's Report, and in the "Monthly Statistics,"^hows this : — Production. Exports. Home Consumption. The Annual Average was Bales. Bales. Per cent. Bales. Per cent. From 1830-31 to 1839-40 „ 1840-41 to 1849-50 „ 1850-51 to 1859-60 In 1860-61* In 1869-70.. In 1870-71.. In 1871-72.. 1,368,105 2,154,194 3,395,142 3,849,469 3,201,159 4,352,317 1,139,350 1,708,630 2,611,740 3,127,568 2,178,917 3,167,264 88J 75i 81i 68 72i 224,020 434,863 752,451 843,740 863,908 1,163,666 16i 20 22i 22 27 27 * A large surplus remained from the previous years ; hence the exports and home consumption are more than the year's production. During this period the average net weight of the bale increased gradually from 350 lbs. to 400 lbs. in 1841-43, and thence to 450 lbs. in 1858-60. In 1860-61 it was 477 lbs., and since the war has gradually risen from 441 lbs. to an average of 460 lbs. The consumption in the South was not recorded tUl 1847-48, when it was 92,152 bales for all purposes. UNITED STATES. 445 It is evident from the foregoing statements that the home consumption of the United States has rapidly increased, especially since 1860, and that, too, in spite of the disastrous effect upon the cotton manufactures of the war against the South. It is now more than fire times as much as it was in 1830 to 1840, whereas the exports are not three times as much as in 1830 to 1840. The home consumption has now increased from 843,740 bales before the war to 1,163,666 bales in 1870-71 and to in 1871-72, whereas the exports exceed only by a little the exports before the war. Of the present consumption of about 1,200,000 bales, the four States, Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island, take about 687,000 bales. {Vide also paragraph 188.) 110. Cotton can be bought at place of origin without ^/'.^fj^^^^ff,' the purchaser seeing it; but wool at any rate in the up.'.' United States cannot be so bought. Although the cotton manufacturers have tliis advantage over the woollen manufacturers, they meet with some disadvantages in the purchase of their raw material. As has been already mentioned, it is customary for the mills to stock up early in the cotton year at loss of interest, cost of many little expenses, and risk of loss in price. This system obviously requires the locking-up of a large capital, and seems to render absolutely necessary a larger business capital for mills than would otherwise be needed. The system is, however, supported by the general preference of the spinners to import their cotton from the South, some- times at, as dealers aver, a higher cost to New England manufacturers than the cotton could be bought ia Boston. The chief reason, for this preference seems to be that the spinners cannot depend upon the home supply of their central city, as Boston for instance. But the business method of the dealers seems also to be defective. There is, however, in Boston, a desne to remedy this state of things, and it would seem possible to make of Boston a cotton market next in importance to Liverpool, cotton held ai Several advantages are claimed for Boston. The Boston '=''®*p'5^- Board of Trade Report for 1871, to which I am indebted for most of the remarks on this subject, states some of them thus : — " Cotton is held in Boston at less expense LWerooi" than in any other northern port, and less than in Liver- [3531 2 I U6 UNITED STATES. Mixing of cotton. Waste of manufactur pool except in the item of interest. Upon consignments of cotton from tlie South there is less loss in weight by handling and damage, and by shrinkage, than in other markets. Freights by steamer to Liverpool are generally lower from Boston than from New York, because the freight steamers carrying grain and other heavy cargo,- lacking light cargo, want cotton to fill up." As the opposite custom prevails in England, it is supposed, in. the United States, that the English spinners obtain over American spinners " an advantage of nearly ^d. per lb. in relative cost" by the habit of buying, as they require raw material, at Liverpool, the market nearest their mills and the cheapest. At any rate it is stated that "in the average of the last three or four years the prices at Liverpool have been lower than the cost of importation at the same date." 111. As to the use of cotton in spinning, there is little to say under this head. The practice in the United States seems to be to use one kind of cotton only, and seldom to resort to mixing different grades of cotton. In. some cases the spinners, whenever it is necessary to use different qualities, keep tliem separate until they- have passed through the cards. This system seems to have advantages. The waste in manufacturing the ravi^ material of cotton used to be about 20 per cent, in 1830, and has now been reduced to about 16 per cent. Hence, in this E/cport, the waste will be assumed to be 16 per cent., and the lb. of product will be computed to have con- sumed 1-625 lbs. of cotton. The distribution of the waste seems to be as follows : — At breaker lapper „ finisher lapper ,, breaker card , . jinisiier card Per cent. .. 2 .. 1 .. 1 .. 1 Per cent. At first drawing „ second drawing „ third drawing ,, coarse fly „ fine fly Total per cent. Carding . . . . 5 Drawing, evening, &c. 5 Railway head . . 4 Other waste ■ . 2 16 e. Mill Supplies. Caai. 112. Prominent amongst mill supplies stands out that great store of power — the coal. Wherever water- power is not within reach at cheaper cost, cheap coal UNITED STATES. 447 means cheap power, and cheap power is a very important item in cheap manufacturing. Notwithstanding this fact, and especially as I am pressed for time, I cannot enter so fully into the subject of coal as I should like to do. Neither do I yet possess all the materials for deal- ing with it as thoroughly as I could wish, although I have been able to collect some materials of interest. The cost of coal to a mill seems now to be usually taken at 6 dollars, or 24s. 6d. per ton in New England, and at a little less in some parts of the Middle States. In several cases, however, the coal has not cost more than 6 dollars, or 20s. 9d. a ton. Philadelphia has her coal as cheaply as and even more cheaply than any other large manufacttu^ing centre. The price for anthra- cite averaged on board vessels at Philadelphia : — From 1840 to 1850 „ 1850 to 1860 In 1860-61 . . 1870 1871 1872 D. c. 3 50 or 3 75 „ 3 40 „ 4 39 „ 4 43 „ Cost to mill. Prices in Philadelphia. To the above prices must be added the expenses from the vessel to the mill. The prices at other manufacturing centres would, of course, be higher in proportion to the cost of freight. In Baltimore, the bituminous coal is about 2 dollars less than the price at which the anthra- cite can be delivered, and is therefore mainly used in manufacture. As I write, the price realized at Scrantbn, a central town of the anthracite regions, is at shipping points 4 dol. 20 c, or 19s. 9d. for " chestnut," which is the size generally consumed by mills. This is an advance of 5 per cent, on last month's prices. This coal, when it reaches, for instance, Hartford, in Connecticut, after nearly 300 miles of transport, will be sold to the dealers probably at 7 dollars to 7 dol. 50 c, or 26s. Sd. to 28s., with some discount to a mill taking a very large quantity. The highest and lowest prices of anthracite and Nova Scotia coal at Boston were as follows : — Prices in Boston. 1862 1870 1871 Anthracite. Dollars. 5 to 9 7 to 11 7 to 10 Nova Scoti: Dollars. 4 50 to 8 00 5 75 to 7 25 5 75 to 7 00 2 I 2 448 UNITED STATES. Cost of Collieries. The Nova Scotia coal was free in 1862, but includes in the other quotations a duty of 1-25. At the present time it seems to be diverted to the West Indies. 113. In some coal districts it is considered that this coal can be mined and placed in marketable form with one-third the labour employed in England for the same operation. In 1861, the cost, with profit, of mining and preparing anthracite coal was frora 1 dol. 37 c. to 1 dol. 50 c. gold, or 5s. 8^d. to 6s. 3d. per ton, and Cumberland (bituminous coal) from 75 cents to 88 cents, or 3s. l^d. to 3s. 8d. per ton. In 1872, the cost was from 1 dol. 20 c. to 1 dol. 70 c. currency in some Penn- sylvanian anthracite districts, and may have been in all, but probably this was actual cost without profits. This would be equivalent to from 4is. 6d. to 6s. 5d. per ton. At some pits, however, the cost of mining is less. The selling price at the pit's mouth in bitumiaous districts is not unfrequently 1 dol. 25 c, or 4s. 8d. per ton. I should mention that anthracite coal is broken up into convenient sizes for market, and that the price varies according to the size and the labour involved in its preparation. In the cost of mining is included this pre- paration. The 4s. 6d. per ton may, therefore, be taken to represent the cost with the least expense of preparation. The Census Returns for 1870 show the following facts : — Pennsylvania. United States. Anthracite. Bituminous. Anthracite and Bitumiuous. Number of collieries 229 359 1,566 „ men 43,943 16,517 84,563 boys 8,979 433 10,191 Wages paid , . Dollars 22,982,813 8,995,495 44,316,491 Value of materials. ,, 3,596,440 604,691 5,668,955 Production { ^o-^,.^ 15,e50,275 7,798,518 32,863,690 38,436,745 13,921,069 73,524,992 Average value at T colliery . . J " 2.53 1.77 •• Cost of mining. Prom these data I have computed the figures of the foUoAving statement, taking the average price of gold in 1869 to 1870 :— UNITED STATES. 449 Pennsylvania. United States. Anthracite. Bituminous. Anthracite and Bituminous. Wages . . Per ton Materials . . „ Remainder* . „ Total D. c. «. d. 1 47 .. 4 lOJ 23 .. 9J- 75 .. 2 6 2 45 8 2 D, c. s. d. 1 15 .. 3 10 08 .. 3i 55 .. 1 10 1 78 5 lU D. 0. a. d. 1 35 .. 4 6 17 .. 7 72 ., 2 5 2 24 7 6 * The remainder includes general expenses, depreciation, interest, &c. These results from 1869-70 are rather higher than the data given in the foregoiag paragraph for 1872, even after allowing for profits. If the Census Returns be for the year 1869 alone, then the sterling equivalents should be from one-twentieth to one-twenty-fifth less than those above given. 114. The annual wages paid per hand may be deduced from the Census Returns to have been : — D. c. £ s. d. 'Anthracite .. ■ \ Bituminous . 432 40 . .nib 530 70 . . 88 9 . Both 4(i7 70 . . 77 19 Wages at. In Pennsylvania In the United States The "basis" of wages agreed upon in November 1870 for 1871 was a 2-50 basis in the anthracite regions of Pennsylvania. This might slide down to a minimum of 2 dollars, in this case giving — Dols. *. d. To outside labourers . . 9, or 38 9 per week Inside „ .. 10, 37 6 „ Miners (day work) . . 12, 45 „ Contract work was to be graded on the basis at the rate of 1 cent (1-35 dollar) rise or fall ia price of coal. But a strike took place ia favour of the old basis of 3 dollars, and an almost general lock-out followed. By " basis " is meant the selling price of coal on which the standard rate of wages is reckoned. After much bitter discussion, work was resumed at various rates not differing much from the first-mentioned "basis," and chiefly based upon an arbitrator's decision in favour of a 2 dol. 75 c. basis sliding down to 2 dol. 25 c. In the Schuyl- kill region, in 1870, the following wages were paid, the " lasis" being 3-00, sliding down to 2-00. 450 TTNITED STATES. Price of Miners' Inside Outside Coal per Per cent. Wages per Labourers, Labourers, ton. Reduction. Week, per Week, per Week, 3 dols. 14 dols. 12 dols. 11 dols. Dol. c. Dol. c. Dol. c. Dol. c. August 2 85i 8i 12 85 11 1 10 9 September . . 2 44^ 16i 11 69 10 2 9 19 October 2 50J 16i 11 69 10 2 9 19 November . . 2 27 24i 10 54 9 3 8 28 December . . 2 17 24i 10 54 9 3 8 28 Freight on coal. The prices paid imder the umpire's decision, in 1871 varied in. a similar manner. The contract prices varied accordingly in both cases. By working on contract, and not by day, the miner can gain much. greater wages than the weekly rate quoted in the foregoing statement. As an example of how this system works, and of what a miner may earn, I may add that a miner on a basis of 2"50 dollars earned in 1871 3'75 dollars a day in a month of 24 working days by seven hours' work, and on a 2"25 dollar basis could by eight hours' work generally make the same wages. In New York State miners earned about 90 cents per ton in 1869-70. In Schuylkill they earned ia 1872 about l'20dollar, or 4iS. 6d. per 2^ tons, and pay their labourers 2'00 dollar, or 7s. 6d. a day. The gang men earned 3 '00 dollar, or lis. Sd. a day. For purposes of comparison, it is necessary to find the product per dollar of wage and the average weight of coal mined per dollar of the miner's wage. As to the first, the Census Returns show for Pennsylvania that every dollar of wage represents in anthracite about 1,360 lbs. of product. That dollar is, however, distributed in due proportion between the miners, inside labourer, and outside labourer, and of that proportion I had no exact information. But, if the proportions in England be taken, the efficiency of the miner for his pay can be marked out from any one of the bases in the foregoing statement. The result will not, however, represent the facts in Pennsylvania, because workiag in anthracite is different to working in bituminous coal. It would at best be only a guess at the efficiency of the Pennsylvania miner. 115. The freight on coal in 1872 averaged 1^ cents, or 0-68 dollars per ten mile in long distance, and 2^ cents or 1-15 dollars on local lines. Special prices were. UNITED STATES. 451 liowever, made for competing points and for large quaiii- tities to large centres. It has, on the other hand, been stated that the average freight of coal per ton was— By railroad River Canal Lake Sea 3 cents, or 1 ■ 35d. 3 mills, or -He?. 1 cent, or • 45d. ^ cent, or O'lld. 1;^ mills, or 0-05^.. s a Q, ^51 ■3 2 ?iS, Mills for various Products. ,. SSa Men. Women. loung Persons. Chfldien. ^r No. 11, e. No. D. c. No. D.c. No. D. c. No. D. d. Batting 1 36 3 18 ... 9 1 35 9 75 „ 3 m 1 65 8 1 00 5 1 35 ... 40 109 Warp Duck 10 2 00 7 1 08 17 79 13 ... 45 1S3 12 3 (111 9 90 13 100 4 65 Gingliams 121 1 67 76 1 03 87 84 S3 57 324 1 19 Judged by this one example of ginghams, the actual average is 11 cents, or 5d. higher in coloured work than in plain work. But it is not possible to draw any trust- worthy inference of general application from single instances. In the Philadelphia district the actual average wage per hand was in 1870 (and the decrease is slight since that year). Per Year. Number Dols. Employed. In cotton laps and yarns . . 290 . . 671 In checks, ginghams, and other piece goods . . . . 300 . . 5,298 The actual average wages per day may therefore not unfairly be taken at 1 dollar, or 3s. 9rf., for that cotton manufacturing area. Moreover, in Massachusetts the actual wages paid in 1869-70 were, according to the census, as follows : — Batting and wadding Piece goods, &c.. . Picking and cleaning Thread, twines, and yarns . , No. Dols. 125 378 41,462 311 31 440 2,016 323 WaM. This shows a rather higher average than 1 dollar a day in a nominal year of 300 working days. It is 1 dol. 4 c, or nearly 3s. lid. a day. 128. The conclusion seems consequently to be safely reached that the actual average wage per hand in the United States is about 1 dollar, or 3s. 2d. a day, in a nominal working year of 300 days, for yarns and piece UNITED STATES. 463 goods in general, and does not range more than 11 cents, or 5d. higher for plain fine coloured work. This conclusion does not, however, tally with the inferences to be drawn from the Table (quoted in the second foUowing paragraph) prepared by Dr. Young for Mr. Commissioner Wells, in 1870. After allowing 10 per cent, for decrease in wages since that date, his Table woiild show an average weekly earning of 5 dollars gold, or 20s. lOd. for operatives, omitting overseers. This average would seem to be rather too high to represent actual earnings, for including overseers, the actual rate seems to be only 6 dollars currency, or 22s. 6d. In comparing these wages with wages in England, it Per hour. should be borne in mind that in the United States the weekly wages generally represent 66 hours of work against 60 hours in England. The actual average wage per hour in the United States is about 9 cents, or a small fraction (a quarter of a farthing) over 4 crt rn Ph o ,=1 flj 1 ^ rn 111 P- I ^■*Mr-l(]Or-ieO"T»ro r-4i£>U9eQ O IClCQCQ : OTf40« " 00 C- O C« r^ <0 t- »0 ■■iiccoat- t> O oa "^i CO 00 CCCOrHN r-JfflWeOWg C4W4< i-Hi-HOJOS! ^OOt-rfCtJiiO'.JtCOt- t-Oc^eO >0r-<»0'*^'* COCOO OrH r-ii— I i-Hrl r-t i— < P p OO* OOOG4 ■ COt>> 003r-IC tBlO O :U3CQ' comcccnOiin P woe- eoiata-^CD^ P t-O T}t lO tOi— ( kOCO^ PSMOlSOOir- -OOOOiOOOiO Cf^OO *" lo u3 lO O C"iO O d (mart - ~ it-eo'«#»o cooir- rH CtrH C» r-l rH --t-eo «■<*« :cot> E *i a « d B ?= a : rt'i M-B : c : : e ^ =1 si > — « ■ S « ■it 5i » to 'f^ a, 3 ^ J «^ ^ i,Sa s fe S B iiS S.s-S S " S » g'S^-g B^S SiJi! S.S £ g-3 &* S.S 2 S S " i „ if go •^ p CO O 11 1-s 5^ ga gs 3 -a ■«s iRS ■S? "'S S>i!! %i ■s-N fc-p so ITS O P* Si. '•3 UNITED STATES. 465 The comparison made in tlie note to the above Table has been abeady noticed {vide paragraphs 27 and 128). According to this Table the wages range on an average 6 per cent, higher in the New England States than in the Middle States. This accords on the whole with the results stated in the preceding paragraphs respecting average wages of all hands. The average decrease of wages for aU hands, except oecreaae since overseers, is nsually stated at 10 per cent, since 1869. Consequently, the following rates of wages for 1872 may be deduced from Dr. Young's Table : — In New England in Middle States. 1869. Average W eekly Earnings. Carding — Del. c. £ s. d. Overseer 18 03 3 7 8 Scutcher hand. . 6 68 1 5 Oi- Railway minders 3 60 ls 6 Drawing frame 3 83 14 4i Speeder 4 87 18 3 Scutcher boy . . 4 30 16 1^ Grinders 7 85 1 9 6A Strippers 6 50 1 4 ^ Spinning — Overseer 17 50 3 5 7i Mule spinners. . 9 77 1 16 7| Mule backside piecers . . 2 22 8 4| Frame spinners 3 17 11 7i Dressing — Overseer 15 27 2 17 3 Second hand . . 10 62 1 18 10 Spoolers 4 59 17 2i Warpers 4 04 15 Il- Drawers and twisters 4 28 ls 01 Dressers 12 70 2 7 7A Weaving — Overseer 14 es 2 14 10| Weavers 7 40 1 7 9 Drawers-in 5 60 1 1 Other hands — Foremen 15 22 2 17 1 Wood workers. . 13 48 2 10 ^ Iron workers . . 11 45 2 2 11- Engineer 12 06 2 5 2- Labourers 8 00 1 10 Overseer in cloth room . . 12 18 2 5 7f Estimated wages in ISfZ. Some of the above averages are less valuable than others, inasmuch, as from some States, such as Pennsyl- vania, for instance, the returns are meagre, as will be seen on referring to the Table for 1869. 4>66 TTNETED STATES. In blowing and carding- rooms. Hates in a fine mill. In making further inquiry into wages I shall take separately the carding, spioniag, ^foesslng, and weaTing departments. 130. In New England the following are some rates of wages paid last year and at the present time for canrd- ing hands in a fine null : — Carding room — Dols. c. £ s. d. Overseer 18 00 3 7 6 .Secondhand .. 1'2 00 2 5 Spreader, or scutcher, or third '9 .00 1 13 9 Opener minder 4 00 15 Spreader minder 5 00 18 9 Railway minder 4 50 16 10| •Drawing-frame minder . . 4 00 15 Speeder minder 8 00 1 10 'Grinder 10 50 1 19 4i •Carders (at self.strippei-s), men . . 8 50 1 11 lOA Eover (intermediate) minder , . . . 7 50 1 8 1^ Fly^frame minder 7 50 1 -8 ]i •Helper at all places 9 00 1 13 9 Actuaiearnings The ahove are rates in a well-organized fine mill. (vari^'sU87o. ^^® foUowing, on the other hand, are average rates, taking mills column : — of all kinds, as stated in the first Cotton Operatives in Carding and Blowing Rooms. Earnings for Six Months. Estimated Yeai-'s No. Occupations. Highest. Lowest. Average. Earnings. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. 17 Overseers 618 00 374 37 496 18 992 36 21 Second hands . . 361 00 257 31 309 15 618 30 20 Third hands . . 283 00 174 30 223 65 457 ^0 75 Picker tenders 232 00 143 50 187 75 375 50 50 r Railway tenders I Children 147 00 98 81 122 90 225 80 75 40 50 00 62 70 125 40 4 Slubber tenders 111 00 109 00 110 00 .. 81 Drawing-framie tenders . . 116 00 85 57 100 78 201 56 8 Fly-frame ".tenders 134 00 100 00 117 00 302 Speeder tenders 185 00 119 25 152 11 304 22 17 Picker boys , . . 154 30 115 00 134 50 269 00 '4 Card "troys 60 00 -50 00 55 00 •110 00 71 Grinders 286 00 209 30 -247 65 495 30 104 Strippers 215 00 148 18 181 59 363 18 3 Card tenders . . 186 00 175 00 180 50 361 00 8 Sweepers 78 00 47 00 62 60 125 00 64 Other hands . . 155 00 77 00 116 00 232 00 UNITED STATES. 467 This Table shows, taking a nominal year of 300 working days, or 50 working weeks of 6 days each, the following ranges and averages of actual weekly wage for each class of hand : — Carding fioom. Actual Wages. Range from — Average. D. c. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Oveisc-cr . . 15 00 to 25 00 20 00 3 15 Second hand 10 30 14 60 12 40 2 2 6 Third hand 7 00 11 30 9 15 1 14 3v 18 1- Scutcher minder 6 75 9 30 7 50 Kail way minder 3 90 5 90 4 90 18 4;: . „ children . . 2 00 3 00 2 50 9 4- Slubber minder 4 35 4 45 4 40 16 6 Drawing-frame minder 3 45 4 65 4 00 16 Fly-frame minder . . 4 00 5 35 4 70 17 7i Speeder . . 4 75 7 40 6 00 1 2 6 Scutcher boy 4 60 6 20 6 40 1 3 Card boy . . 2 00 2 40 2 20 8 3 Grinder . . 8 40 11 50 10 00 1 17 6 Stripper . . 6 00 8 30 7 15 1 6 9| Card minder 7 00 7 60 7 25 1 7 2| Sweeper . . 1 50 3 20 2 40 9 Other hands 3 10 6 20 4 66 17 5A I haye been able to meet with a few isolated state- ments respecting certain classes of hands, which tend to confirm the range, but rather to alter the average in the above Table, such as of third hands earning 550 dollars a year, or 11 dollars a week, and grinders 474 dollars a year, or &|- dollars a week. It will be noticed that some of these averages are not as good guides to the facts as are the others, for there are not hands enough in some classes with which to obtain an approximately fair average. The average weekly rates of wage in the fine mill diflPer, as was to be expected in some classes, from the actual weekly wage in the foregoing Table. Like- wise Dr. Young's Table differs somewhat, but in some instances the difference is more apparent than real. Thus the average of railway minders, men and children, is the same in both statements. On the whole, however. Dr. Young's Table as calculated by me for 1872, shows rather lower wages than the above statement shows for "Massachusetts, but not lower wages than might be caused by the lesser wages of the northern part of New other state- ments. 468 TJKITBD STATES. Daily rates in 38 Massachu- setts mills, i.870. England and of the Middle States. Moreover, if the column for Massachusetts in Dr. Young's Table for 1869 be compared, after deducting 10 per cent, with the corresponding items' in the statement of actual wages, the coincidence is remarkable, for in. respect of the grinders alone is there any greater difference than a few cents. In Massachusetts in 1871, returns, representing 1870-71, and being nearly complete for 38 mills, were made of the average daily rate of wage in each depart- ment, distinguishing only between overseers and other hands. From these I have made the following state- ment, to show the range and average for the carding- room : — Carding and Blowing Eoom. Range, from — General Average. D. c. D. c. D. e. s. d. Overseers . . 1 66f to 6 00 2 90 10 lOi Men , , 1 55 5 ^ Women 113 to 2 75 97 3 7f 2 9| Young persons , , 74 Children . . 74 to 1 20 60 2 3 Average of these five classes . . — 60 1 33 5 Of The average daily pay per hand in any given card- room is, of course, different from this average daily rate of wage in carding departments. If the general average for men be proportionately increased so as to include the wage of the overseer, the general averages for carding hands do not materially differ from those for aU hands in paragraph 126. Moreover, if 10 per cent, be deducted from a return of 1869, the wages of men would average 1 dol. 26 c., of women 86 cents, and children 60 cents, and the averages would be lower. Number of It is desirablc, in order to understand how far the carding°depart- saviug of labour has been carried in each department, to mentj _ know the number of hands required for a given amount of work. In a fine mill in New England, the following is a list of hands per 10,000 spindles, mule spinning, with which I have been most obligingly furnished : — Blowing room^ Opener boy- First lapper Second ]apper UNITED STATES. 469 Cording room — Overseer Second hand Grinder Stripper Sweeper Helper, oiler, &c. Girl at railway and first drawing „ second drawing „ slubbers . . „ intermediate frames ,, fine speeders . . Girl as sweeper Total hands, or 2-jL. per 1,000 spindles . . 21 In the eight establishmeiits in Massaclmsetts, of which the statistics have been quoted, there were re- turned for the blowing and carding rooms 831 hands. On the assumption that these establishments represented about 350,000 spindles, this would give 2f per 1,000 spindles. Perhaps it would, for the best districts, be fair to take these rates as indicating the range of the ratio of labour to machinery in this department. 132. In the spinning department I can quote from wages in similar sources, and in the same order, the following depa°toent. statements of wages. Statement of Rates of Wages in. Pine MUl. Rates in fine mill. &|inning department — Dols. c. £ s. d. ^Uverseers . 18 00 3 7 6 Assistant . . 12 00 2 5 Spinners (14 mills per lb.), who pay back boys 2 50 9 J. Sweeper boy 2 50 9 470 "UNITED STATES. Actaal earn- ings in 8 mills (various). Other state- ments. Statement of Actual Earnings. Spinning Department. Earnings for Six Months. Estimated No. Occupation. Highest. Lowest. Average. Earnings. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. 18 Overseers 652 00 329 61 440 80 881 60 27 Second hands 358 00 253 60 305 80 611 60 24 Third hands . . 277 00 156 00 216 50 433 00 21 Section hands . 269 00 100 00 184 50 368 00 124 Mule spinners 364 00 106 00 235 00 470 00 / Coffers \ Children 186 00 94 17 140 08 280 16 106 69 00 60 00 64 50 129 00 147 Mule backside piecers . . 109 00 30 00 69 50 139 00 523 r Frame spinners I Children 160 00 104 17 132 58 265 16 85 75 30 00 57 87 115 74 18 •Sweeper* 60 00 47 00 53 50 107 00 82 Other hands . . 155 00 77 00 116 00 232 00 This Table shows the following ranges and averages of actual weekly wage for each class of hand : — Spinniiag Hoom. fiange, from — Average. D. c. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Overseers 13 20 to 22 00 17 60 3 6 Second hands . . 10 10 14 30 12 20 2 5 9 Third hands 6 20 11 10 8 65 1 12 b\ Section hands . . 4 00 10 80 7 40 1 7 9 Mule spinaiesB . . 4 20 14 50 9 40 1 16 3 Doffer^ 3 80 7 40 6 60 I 1 „ chiMreB. . 2 40 2 75 2 60 9 9 Mule liackside pressevs . . 1 20 4 36 2 80 10 6 Frame spinners . . 4.20 6 40 5 30 19 10- „ „ children . . 1 20 3 45 2 35 8 9| Sweepers 1 50 2 40 1 95 7 3| Other hands 3 10 6 20 4 65 17 6| As compared with Dr. Young's Tables, as altered for 1871-72, these results do not vary more than might he expected. As compared with his column for Massa- chusetts, the actual earnings of mule spinners and frame spinners average less than in his Table, after due de- duction of the 10 per cent. I have been able to meet with a few isolated state- ments as follow, respecting certain classes of hands. According to the statistics cited during the PaU River strike in 1870, it would seem that spinners can now earn an average of two dollars or 7s. Qd. a day, at a pay of 4 cents per 100 hanks. This rate is said to give a daily UNITED STATES. 471 wage higher (hy 10 'to .20 per cent.) than at other places, because the better class of mills attracts a better class of operatives, and plant and hands both work better. Another statement shows spinners earning 525 dollars a year, or from 10::| to 11 dollars a week, which is about Idol. 75c. or 6sr 6|rf. a-day of eleven hours. This would tend to confirm the Pall Eiver allegation of higher wage there. Other statements show earnings of 12 to 13 dollars or 45s. to 4&s. 9d. a-week by mule spinners, of 7 dollars or 26s. Sd. a-day, or 20 dollars a month for girls of 17 at Ting spinning. A girl piecing at throstle frames will earn 5 dollars or 18s. 9d. a-week, the pay being Ij dollar or 4s. S-^d. a side. Boys in the spinning-room can earn froiu 4 to 6 dollars or 15s. to 22s. 6d. a-week, or 60 cents (2s. 3d.) to 1 dollar (3s. 9d.) a-day. According to the statement of piece-work in the following paragraph, back boys, however, receive, in different localities, only 1 dol. 75 c. to 3 dol. 60 c, or 6s. 6f cZ. to lis. Sd. a week. In the Philadelphia district the rates of spinners' wages range from 1 dol. 75 c. to 2 dol. 25 c. or 6s. 6f d. to 8s. 5^.d. a-day, rarely to a higher rate. .133. Two men in the Pall River strike gave a report. Piece prices in obtained by personal visits to the localities, to their ^p"^'""s- Conxmittee on the prices paid for spinning. "The following is a correct list of prices paid for spinning yam, from No. 35 to No. 38, in the various places in New England : — D. c. " Weft, 35*. — Price paid to spinners for spinning 100 lbs. of yarn in Fall Eiver . . .. .. ..1 38i Back boy receives 1 del. 76 c. per week. Weft, 36s. — Price paid to spinntrs lor spinning 100 lbs. of yarn in Lawrence .. .. .. . . 1 60 Back boy receives 3 dols. per week. Weft, 38s. — Price paid to spinners for spinning 100 lbs. of yarn in Lowell . . . . . . . . 1 80 Back boy receives 3 dols. per week. Weft, 36s. — Price paid to spinners for spinning 100 lbs. of yarn in MancUester, N. H. . . . . . . 1 95 Back boy receives 3 dels, per week. Weft, 35si — Price paid to spinners for spinning 100 lbs. of yarn in Sprague's mills, R. I. .. . . 1 44 Back boy receives 2 dols. 50 c. per week. Average rents at Sprague's firms, R. I., 35 dols. per year, with better accommodation tlian at Fall River at 96 dols." The reduced price in Pall River, which caused the strike, was 4 cents (according to above Report only 472 UNITED STATES. General range and average (18;i) of the 38 mills. Number of hands. 3 c. 9 mil.) or about Ifd. per 100 lianlcs (35s.), a re- duction of 8 per cent, from tlie previous price of 4 c. 3^ mills. The price now paid in Rhode Island ia a fine mUl (33s.) for both warp and weft is 1 c. 4 mills, or 0'63 of a penny per lb., mule spinning, and the price for warp throstle (ring) spinning, is stated to be 10 c. 5 mills, or 4|d. per 100 hanks of 24s. The general range and average of daily rates of wage in the spinning department were in 1871 — Eange, from — Average. D. c. D. c. D. c. s. d. Overseers 1 75 to 6 00 2 871 10 9 Men .. 90 2 75 1 40 5 3 Women 68 1 17 94 3 61- Young persons . . 51 1 00 87 'A 3 Children 26 88f sses . . 50 1 101 Average of other five cla 1 32 4 lOi If the deduction of 10 per cent, be made from a return in 1869, the average daily rates for the present time would seem to be 1 dol. 26 c. for men, 90 cents for women, and 45 cents for children, which are considerably lower than is the average. 134. As to the number of hands in a spinning depart- ment, the following particulars can be stated from the same sources as in the carding department. In the fine mill of 10,000 spindles there are — Hands. Overseer . , . . . . . . 1 Second hand Mill spinners Back boys Sweeper boy Total 1 8 8 1 19 Or Ij^ per 1,000 spindles. In the eight establishments there were in aU 1,090 hands (half employed in frame spinning) or three per 1000 spindles. The ratio of labour to machinery may be, perhaps, taken to range between these two rates. It should be remarked, however, that in the fibie miU the overseer and second hand have also the oversight of the preparation for weaving, and the sweeper boy helps in all those rooms. UNITED STATES. 473 135. Por the dressing room similar statements can wages in the I. • dressine-room. be given. * Statements of Rates of Wage in Pine Mill, 1871-73. Rates in fine miU. Dressing Department — Overseer D. c. 18 00 3 7 d. 6 Assistant 12 00 2 5 Spoolers, girls (7 mills per lb.) Warper minders. . Sweeper boy Dressers, men 7' 00 2 50 15 00 1 "g 9 2 16 3 H 3 Statement of Actual Earnings. Actual enrn- ings in 8 millE. Dressing Room. Earnings for Six Months. Estimated Year's No. Occupation. Highest. Lowest. Average. Earnings. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. G. 13 Overseers 546 00 331 00 438 50 877 00 17 Second hand . . 327 00 214 17 270 58 541 16 13 Third hands . . 277 00 156 00 216 30 432 00 20 Section hands . . 231 00 110 00 170 50 340 00 228 Spoolers 163 40 60 00 106 50 213 00 124 Warpers and reelers 209 00 77 00 143 00 286 00 24 Drawers and twisters . . 175 00 108 00 141 50 283 00 104 Dravving-in hands 237 38 81 00 159 19 318 38 87 Dressers 565 00 180 00 372 50 746 00 9 Beamers 240 50 218 25 229 37 458 74 1 Slasher tender. . 367 50 , , 367 50 734 00 8 Other hands . . 116 00 116 00 232 00 This Table shows the following ranges and averages of actual weekly wage for each class of hand — Dressing Room. Range. Average. D. c. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Overseers. . 13 20 to 21 80 17 50 3 5 71 Second hands 8 60 13 10 10 85 2 8A 1 12 5J Third hands 6 20 11 10 8 65 Section hands 4 40 9 20 6 80 1 5 6 Spoolers . . 2 00 6 56 4 25 15 Hi Warpers and reelers 3 10 8 30 5 70 1 1 4i Drawers and twisters 4 30 7 00 5 65 1 1 2i Drawing-in hands . . 3 20 9 50 6 35 1 13 91 Dressers . . 7 20 22 60 14 90 2 15 lOi Beamers . . 3 75 9 60 9 20 1 14 6 Slasher tender • • 14 70 14 70 2 15 Hi Other hands • ■ 4 65 4 65 17 5i 474 UNITED STATES. Other state- ments. Piece prices in dressing, &e. These results vary somewlaat from, those ohtained for Massachusetts from Dr. Young's Table, after deducting the 10 per cent. ; the more skilled ranging rather higher, and the less skilled rather lower. They vary rather more from his general averages. The labour in the dressing room is somewhat trying, and hence the difference between the actual earnings and daily rates is more marked in respect of these classes of operatives than of perhaps any other. A dresser earning 16 dollars a wefek returned himself as only able to earn 50 dollars a month. A girl of fifteen, as dressing hander, with 3 dol. 6 c. a week only earned 8 dollars a month. A youth, as drawer and twister, at 8 dollars a week earned about 25 dollars a month. Many dresser tenders in all districts seem to earn from 13 to 14 dollars a week. In the Philadelphia district spoolers and others (women) are paid a daily rate of 75 cents to 2 dollars, or 2s. 9fo!. to 7s. 6d. At the new warping mill one skilled man and two boys earned 76 dollars in one month for 21,000 lbs. of linked warp. This gives 3-6 mills per lb. Women warpers average 9 dollars, or 1^. 13*. 9d. 136. The pay for piece-work is, in a fine mill — c. ». d. For drawing, pes beam (100 by 100) of 14 cuts. ..■ .. .. 75or2 9|' For drawing, per beam (64 by 64) of 28 cuts. ... .. .. 371 1 5 General range and average of wog?s. And in general on printers (64 by 64) 28- inches wide. For spooling, per lb. , . Warping, per beam Drawing in, per beam. Dressing, per 47 yai-ds c. m. s. 00 9 or 38 1 33 1 4 5 d. 0-405 5-r 2-- 85 2.- 025 The aggregate pay for preparation in the( dressing- room is, on printers, 64s, from 5 to 10 cents, or from 2^d;. to 4Jd. per cut of 47 yards, and on sheeting, 100s, in proportion. The general ranges and averages of daily rates of wage in the dressing department in 1871, is as follows : UNITED STATES. 473 Daily Rates of Wage. Dressing Room. Rank. Average. Overseers.. Men Women . . Young persons D. c. D. c. 1 75 to 4 25 1 31 2 50 75 1 65 45 1 47 D. c. 2 93 1 90 1 10 87 s. d. 10 11 4 li 3 1 Average of the four classes . 1 70 6 4* These averages range mucli higlier than in other departments, as was to be expected. 137. The number of hands in this department is Tery variable. In the fine mill referred to in the other departments therie would be — Hands. Spoolers, girls . . . . . . . . 5 Warper minders, girls . . . . . . 3 Dressers, men . . . . . . . . 3 Drawers-in of webs . . . . . . 3 Number of hands. Total 14 Gr 1| per 1,000 spindles. In the eight establishments the Returns show a total of 642 hands, or If per 1,000 spindles. These rates indicate the ratio of labour to machinery. 138. The weaving department can be treated. similarly Wages in weaving departments. Statement of Rates of Wages-. Fine Mill, 1872-73. Weaving Room — D. c. £ s. d. Overseer 18 00 3 7 6 Assistant 12 00 2 5 Weavers, 4 looms each,. 6 to 7 mills per yaa-dsi . Helpers 8 00 1 10 Oilers for looms and shafting 6 00 12 6 Smash piecers . . 6 00 1 2 6 Trimmers 5 00 18 9 Rates in a fine miU. 476 UNITED STATES. Actual earn- ings in 8 mills. Other state- mentE. Statement of Actual Earnings. "Weaving Eoom. Earnings for Six Months. Estimated Year's Earnings. No. Highest. Lowest. Average. D. c. D. 0. D. c. D. c. 18 Overseers . . 546 00 379 26 462 63 925 26 32 Second hands 378 75 269 50 324 12 648 24 42 Third hands. . 279 00 164 00 221 60 443 00 43 Room girls . . 234 00 89 00 162 50 325 00 54 Cloth girls . . 202 00 175 00 187 50 375 00 1,721 Weavers 351 00 63 00 207 00 414 00 38 Other hands . . 180 00 77 00 128 50 256 00 This Table shows tlie following ranges and averages of actual weekly wage for each class of hand : — Weaving Eoom. Eange. Average. D. c. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Overseers. . 15 20 to 21 80 18 50 3 9 4i Second hands 10 80 15 15 13 00 2 8 9 Third hands 6 56 11 16 8 90 1 13 4- 1 4 4i Boom girls 3 56 9 36 6 50 Cloth girls 7 00 8 10 7 50 1 8 14 Weavers . . 2 50 14 00 8 25 1 10 11- 19 a Other hands 3 10 7 20 5 15 Piece prices. The weavers are 15 per cent, higher than in Dr. Young's Table, as altered for 1872. Isolated statements as to daily rates and actual earn- ings tend, so far as they go, to confirm the general impression obtained from the statistics of the foregoing Tables. In the Philadelphia district, for instance, loom " bosses" (overseers) are paid 3 to 4 doUars or lis. M. to 15s. ; weavers (menj are paid for piece-work from 2^ to 5 dollars, or 9«. ^\d. to 18s. ^d, a day, and weavers (women) from 1 dol. 60 c. to 2 dol. 30 c, or 5s. ^\d. to 8s. 7id. The higher rates are rare, and the bulk of the weaving is done at the lower price, and chiefly by women. In the Fall River strike an intelligent agent of one of the mills, although he quoted instances of higher earn- ings, took the actual average weekly wage of the weaver at 9 dollars, or 1/. 13s. 9rf. In Connecticut women weavers earn from 75 cents to 1 dol. 25 c. a day ; in LoweU, Massachussets, 1 dol. 20 c. a day. 139, The prices for piece-work are stated as follows UNITED STAIES. 477 in the course of the testimony in the Pall Eiver strike : — Cents. In Providence . . . . . . per out 25 Taunton . . . . . . „ 25-^ FallRivcT .. .. .. „ 27 To these rates a note by the Massachusetts Bureau of Labour was appended, stating the prices as follows : — Yards. Cents. Per Yard. Mills. d. Fall River . . 45 27 6 0-27 Taunton (Eagle Mills) . . 46 261 H 0-25 (Dean Mills) . . 40 24| H 0-28 Providence (Oriental) „ , 40 28 7 0-32 (Steam) 52 38 7 3 'To- 0-33 These prices were all for weaving print cloth, 64 by 64. The average is 6f mUls, or 0'29d. per yard. Another statement gives the price of weaving, in- clusive of preparation for weaving, as follows : — c. c. *. d. 64 by 64 print clotli, 47 yards at 30 to 35 = 1 100 100 sheeting, 42^ „ 85 100 3 d. li to 1 3 J 2i 3 9 The general wages and averages of daily rates of General range wage in 1871 for the weaving department were as a°* average, follows : — Weaving Eoom. Range. Average. Overseers. . Men Women . . Young persons D. c. D. c. 2 26 to 5 25 1 00 2 50 80 1 60 70 1 88 D. c. 3 00 1 75 1 18 1 10 s. d. 11 3 6 6| 4 5 4 H Average of the four classes . . . 1 77 6 7i 140. The number of hands varies, of course, with the Number of nature of the manufacture. In the Eine Sheeting Mill J^^nds. already quoted there would be no separate cloth-room under separate oversight. Its hands would, therefore, be counted in the weaving department. The list would be as follows : — [353] 2 L 478 UNITED STATES. Overseer " . . .. 1 Second hand 1 Weavers 52 Helpers Oiler' .. 2 1 Smash piecer Trimmers .. 1 ..5 Total 63 Or 6^ per J,000 spindles. In the eight estahlishments the rate is slightly over 6 per 1,000 spindles. Wages in other ]^4]^ Qf Other wages in miUs for white work, the following statements may he made : — parts of mill. Actual earn ings in 8 mills. Statements of Actual Earnings. Highest. Lowest. Average. Year's Earning. In cloth room. Cloth-room' — D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. 7 Overseers 468 00 286 00 377 00 754 00 5 Second hands 310 00 269 00 ■ 289 00 579 00 101 Other hands 264 25 62 00 163 12 326 24 44 Polders and trimmers 195 00 63 50 129 25 258 50 In repair shop, Repair shop and general labour— &c. 6 Foremen 675 00 450 00 562 50 1,125 00 72 Carpenters 452 61 155 00 303 80 607 60 74 Machinists 506 00 190 20 348 10 696 20 3 Engineers- 397 00 265 00 331 00 662 00 11 Firemen 308 00 235 00 271 50 543 00 7 Overseers of yard 439 16 230 00 334 50 665 00 103 Labourers 336 41 187 00 261 70 523 40 47 Watchmen 335 00 136 00 235 00 470 00 19 Painters 400 42 155 00 277 71 555 42 2Masons... 269 00 , , 269 00 538 00 2 Belt-makers 340 00 302 00 321 00 642 00 1 Wheel-tender . 332 29 • • 332 29 664 58 This Tahle gives the following ranges and averages of actual weekly wages for each class of hand. UNITED STATES. 479 Actual weekly wage — Actual Weekly Average. Range from Average. "Cloth -room — D. c. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Overseer . . 11 45 tc 18 75 15 10 = 2 16 7i Second hand 10 80 12 40 11 60 2 3 6 Other hands 2 50 10 60 6 55 1 4 6J Folders and trimmers 2 60 7 80 5 20 19 6 Repair shop and general labour — Foremen . . 18 00 27 00 22 50 4 4 4i Carpenters. . 6 20 18 10 12 15 2 15 6i Machinists,. 7 60 20 20 13 90 2 12 li Engineers , . 10 60 15 90 13 25 2 9 8i Firemen . . 9 40 12 30 10 85 2 8i Overseers of yard 9 20 17 60 13 40 2 10 3 Labourers . . 7 50 13 45 10 50 1 19 4i Watchmen 5 45 13 40 9 40 1 15 3 Painters , , 6 20 16 00 11 10 2 1 7i Masons , , 10 80 10 80 2 6 Belt-makers 12 00 13 60 1£ 80 2 8 6 Wheel-tender .. 13 30 13 30 2 9 lOf So far as these results admit of comparison with Dr. Young's Table as altered for 1872-73, they are con- siderably higher than the general averages for the United States, but do not yary materially from those for Massachusetts. Other data give the following rates of weekly wage : — other data. D c. £ s. d. £ s. d Porters 10 00 .. 1 17 6 Watchmen 10 50 .. 1 19 4i , , Enginemen 18.00 .. 3 7 6 , , Machinists 14 40 .. 2 14 .. 55 • 12 to 18 . . 2 5 to 3 7 6 Labourers 8 to 10 . . 1 10 to 1 17 6 The general range and . averages of daily rates of General range wage are as follows :— ^""^ ayera-ge. Overseers Men . . Women Young persons from Cloth Room. D. c. D. c. 1 07 to 3 50 1 00 1 83 881 1 50 50 1 23 General average of the four classes Repaik Shop, ka ■Overseers . . from 2 87 to 4 50 Mtn.. .. „ 1 24 3 00.. General average of the four classes Average D. c. s. 2 57 = 9 1 40 5 1 07 4, 96 3 d. 3 7 1 50 4 H 3 25 2 00 12 7 H 6 2 62 2 9 L 2 10 480 UNITED STATES. Number of hands. Pay of Overseers. Of superin- tendent. Daily rates in 1872 in print cloth. The higher rates for men in the repair shop are when there is no foreman returned. In other cases it is ex- tremely rare for the rate to be more than 2 dollars. This, howerer, raises the average rate for men in the repair shop. 142. The number of hands in these departments is naturally even more variable than in any other, and cannot be given with any accuracy from the data I have before me. In the eight establishments so often cited they were about If per 1,000 spindles. The wages of overseers vary according to the size of the room which they overlook, and also somewhat according to locality. The range is large in all the departments. Perhaps the fact that, in a 10,000 spindle fine miU in New England the overseers receive 18 dollars, or 31. 7s. 6d., and the assistants 12 dollars, or 21. 5s., a week, may be taken as a standard. The usual range in New England is from 2 dol. 75 c. to 4 dol. 50 c. a day for the same sized rooms as in 1840 at from 1 dol. 50 c. to 2 dollars a day. In the Philadelphia district good overseers are stated to cost 24 dollars, or 4Z. 10s. a week. The superintendent or manager of a mill is paid from 1,750 to 2,000 doUars, or 329Z. 12s. 6d. to 375Z. a year. In the Corporation mills the management of the mill is shared by the treasurer for the financial part, and by the manager for the manufacturing part. These officers often receive high salaries, such as 10,000 to 12,000 dollars, or 1,875Z. or 2,250Z., and even more in some gigantic enterprises which distinguish New England. 143. As regards the daily rates of wage which are paid in mills making certain classes of goods, I have been able to compile the following Table : — DaiIiT Hates of Wage for certain Cotton Eabrics. Print Cloth. Over- seers. Men. Women. Children. Carding 1 2 3 4 5 D. c. 3 00 3 00 2"75 3 50 D. 0. D. c. 80 to 2 20 1 00 2 25 1 20 1 40 . 1 20 2 00 1 00 2 00 D. c. D. c. 60 1 15 80 1 00 70 1 00 70 1 00 65 1 00 D. c. D. c. 50 70 50 60 30 50 Average . . 6 06 1 05 1 98 69 1 03 44 60 UNITED STATES. 481 Print Cloth — {continue^. Over- Men. Women. Children. seers. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. Spinning 1 3 00 90 2 00 , , 30 60 2 2 50 1 50 2 20 75 1 io 45 75 3 , , 1 00 1 65 60 1 00 30 70 4 2 75 1 10 2 00 65 1 40 30 75 5 3 50 1 20 2 10 70 1 10 •• ■■ Average . , 2 94 1 15 2 00 68 1 15 34 70 Dressing 1 5 00 1 00 2 30 1 00 1 25 40 50 2 , , 1 10 2 30 1 00 1 40 60 80 3 • • 1 00 2 00 1 00 1 30 , , 4 , , 1 20 2 20 90 1 20 60 1 00 5 3 50 1 00 2 40 1 00 1 20 •• Average . . 3 25 1 06 2 25 98 1 27 54 77 Weaving 1 3 00 1 00 2 10 1 00 - 1 20 .. 2 3 00 1 60 2 20 1 00 1 30 50 80 3 , , 1 GO 1 50 1 10 1 30 , . 4 3 00 1 50 2 00 90 1 20 50 1 00 5 3 50 1 20 2 00 85 1 10 •• Average . . 3 13 1 26 1 96 97 1 22 50 90 Fkint Cloth and Sheeting and the like. Carding 6 4 50 90 2 20 60 1 10 30 50* 7 3 25 1 20 2 10 70 1 20 40 85* 8 4 00 1 00 2 20 70 1 10 40 50* 9 3 00 90 2 20 50 90 45 60t 10 2 75 80 2 20 60 90 30 75t Average 3 84, 96 2 18 62 1 04 37 64 Spinning 6 4 00 60 2 10 60 1 10 20 50 7 3 25 1 10 2 00 80 1 25 50 70 8 3 50 90 2 10 60 80 40 50 9 3 00 90 2 00 60 85 30 45 10 2 75 60 2 20 •• ■■* 30 40 Average . . 3 30 82 2 08 65 1 00 34 51 Dressing 6 4 00 1 10 2 30 60 70 7 . , 1 15 2 20 70 I 00 8 3 00 1 10 2 20 60 90 45 60 9 3 00 1 25 2 25 85 90 35 45 10 •• 1 10 2 30 60 80 •• Average . . 3 34 1 14 2 25 67 86 40 53 Weaving 4 00 1 10 2 30 60 1 30 7 3 25 1 30 2 20 80 1 60 .. 8 3 50 90 2 10 60 1 20 40 50 9 3 50 90 2 20 70 1 00 ., 10 2 75 1 00 2 20 60 1 30 ■■ •• Average 3 40 1 04 2 20 66 1 28 40 50 In print clotli, sheeting, &c. * Prints and Shirtings. + Sheetings and the lilce. J Fine sheetings. 482 UNITED STATES. lu ginghams, and mills of many various products. Ginghams AND Various Fabrics. Over- Men. Women. Children. seers, D. 0. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. Carding 11 2 50 90 2 00 70 1 00 45 70* 12 3 25 1 00 2 20 70 1 10 ..t 13 ,, 1 00 2 00 70 1 00 65 70 14 2 75 1 00 2 00 70 90 40 70 15 2 75 90 2 10 45 65 35 55 16 3 00 1 10 2 10 60 90 , , 17 3 00 60 1 90 50 80 , , ■•t 18 3 50 90 1 80 50 85 45 50 Average 3 07 93 2 00 60 90 46 63 Spinning 11 2 75 75 2 00 60 90 50 60 12 3 00 90 1 90 55 1 00 , , 13 , , 90 1 90 70 1 00 45 55 14 2 75 1 00 2 00 70 90 40 70 15 2 75 90 2 00 45 65 40 55 16 3 00 1 00 2 30 60 1 00 40 50 17 3 00 50 2 00 35 1 40 , , ■•t 18 3 50 70 1 70 75 90 45 60 Average 2 97 83 1 96 60 1 97 43 58 Dressing 11 .. 1 20 2 10 80 90 , , , , 12 3 25 1 00 2 00 75 1 00 45 60 13 , , 80 2 00 80 1 80 , , , , 14 2 50 1 10 1 90 80 1 20 40 70 15 , , 1 10 1 80 , . , . , , ,, 16 3 00 1 10 2 00 , , , , 17 3 00 1 20 2 10 60 1 30 , , •■t 18 3 50 1 20 1 60 •• •• •• Average 3 05 1 08 1 94 75 1 24 43 65 Weaving 11 2 75 1 10 2 20 1 00 1 10 60 70. 12 3 25 1 30 2 30 50 1 00 , , 13 , , 90 2 00 75 1 30 , , , , 14 3 00 1 10 2 00 90 1 10 , , , , 15 , , 1 10 2 10 50 60 40 50 16 3 50 1 00 1 20 2 20 45 1 10 . , 17 1 20 2 10 60 1 10 , , ..{ 18 •• 1 20 1 75 1 00 1 50 •• Average 3 16 1 14 2 08 74 1 10 50 60 * Ginghams, &c. f Various. t No distinction as to children. Averages by department. If the averages from the foregoing Table be grouped according to departments, the following statement will show the general average for all the eighteen establish- ments : — UNITED STATES. 483 AvEEAGB Daily rates of Wage by Department. Print Cloth. Printers Sheetings. Various. Average. Carding — Overseers . . Men Women Children . . D. c. 3 06 1 52 86 52 D. c. 3 84 1 67 83 50 D. c. 2 97 1 47 75 55 D. c. 3 29 = 1 55 81 52 s. d. = 12 4 5 9J 2 2i 1 Hi Average 1 48 1 71 1 43 1 21 4 64 Spinning — Overseers . . Men Women Children , , 2 94 1 67 92 52 3 30 1 55 83 43 2 97 1 40 78 50 3 07 1 51 84 48 11 5i 5 8 3 If 1 9i Average 1 48 1 53 1 41 1 47 5 6 Dressing — Overseers . . Men Women Children . . 3 25 1 66 1 12 66 3 34 1 79 77 47 3 05 1 51 1 00 54 3 16 1 65 96 56 11 lOi 6 2, 3 9i 2 U Average 1 67 1 59 1 53 1 58 5 11 Weaving — Overseers .. Men Women Children . . 3 13 1 63 1 10 70 3 40 . 1 62 97 45 3 16 1 61 92 55 3 23 1 62 1 00 57 12 li 6 1 3 9 2 If Average 1 64 1 61 1 56 1 60 6 General average rate ) of all departments \ 1 32 1 61 1 48 1 47 5 6 The rates used in tlie foregoing Tables are as nearly correct, and the ratios for each class of operatives as nearly complete, as I can at present- make them. They belong to an unfinished Paper on the Labour of the United States, as, indeed, do many of the rates of wages and earnings quoted in the course of this Report. The general average rates in these Tables give neither proportion of a correct impression of what an operative could expect ^^^^ ™*^ **• to earn, nor an accurate idea of the cost of his labour to the manufacturer. As regards the former, it should be observed that, as the operatives receiving the lower rates of wage far outnumber the overseers and others re- ceiving the higher rates of wage, the average rate of pay per operative is, of course, much lower than the general averages of each department, and all departments obtained in the Tables. Moreover, his annual earnings 484 TTKITED STATES. Summary of wages. will depend upon how many days he works, and are not necessarily equal to his daHy wage multiplied even by 300 days. As regards the cost of labour, I purpose to refer to it in a subsequent subdivision {vide paragraph 156 et seq.) In order to obtain a still more accurate impression of what wages in cotton mills really are, it is desirable to compare the various results already obtained in the different Tables and statements brought forward in the course of the preceding paragraphs. 1 1 u i ii Average daily rates — 1. Dr. Young's Table, 1869 2. „ „ altered for 1872 3. The 38 mills, Massachusetts, 1870-71 .. 4. The 18 mills, 1872 .. D. c. 1 25 1 15 1 33 1 21 D. c. 1 43 1 36 1 32 1 47 D. c. 1 54 1 46 1 70 1 58 D. c. 1 70 1 62 1 77 1 60 D. c. 1 48 1 40 1 53 1 47 Average of 2, 3, and 4 1 23 1 38 1 58 1 66 1 46 Average of daily earnings — 5. Massachusetts, 1871-2 112 1 12 1 52 1 61 1 34 I m bleaching and dyeing. Daily rates. /S. Bleaching and Dyeing. 145. According to the Industrial Statistics for Massa- chusetts in 1870 the labourer employed in bleaching and dyeing earned an average of 446 doUars, or 83 Z. 9s. 6d. a year. This would give in a nominal year of 300 working days, 1 dol. 49 c, or 5s. 7d. a day. In the Philadelphia distri(3t, according to the same authority, dyers in wool and cotton earned nearly 552 dollars, or lOSl. 10s. a year, giving 1 dol. 84 c, or 6s. lOfd. a day. These are appa- rently Hetums from bleacheries and dyehouses, . not belonging to any cotton or woollen mill. In the gingham miU quoted in paragraph 143, the Colouring department showed 4 doUars, or 15s. for the overseer, and 1 dollar to 2 dol. 30 c, or 3s. 9d. to 8s. I^d. for the other hands. The daily rates of wage as shown in some Returns of 1869-70 were— Men . . . . 2 dols. to 3 dols. . . 7s. 6d. to 11*. 3d. Women . . 1 dollar . Sa. 9d. Children . . 50 c. to 66 c. . Is. lOirf. to 2s. 5i UNITED STATES. 485 As regards the classes of hands, the following flgiires can^be cited : — In the Philadelphia district dyers are paid from 2 to of certain 4 doUars a day. In Massachusetts in 1870-71 the actual '''^^^^^■ earnings of — Dyers was 440 dols., being 1 dol. 47 c. or 5s. 6d. a day. Bleachers, 512 dols., „ 1 dol. 70 c. In an establishment in average annual wage of — Dyers and finishers was 800 dels., being 2 dols. 66 c. or 9s. ll^d. a day. Common labourers, 550 dols., „ 1 dol. 83 c. 6s. lO^d. „ In another establishment the average daily wages A^d. Massachusetts in 1871 the Of men were , . Women Young persons Children D. c. D. c. s. d. s. d. 1 58 to 2 87 or 5 11 to 7 — 1 00 — 3 9 80 1 21 3 4 6i — 83 — 3 Hi A superintendent is paid about 4 dollars, or 15s. a day. From other statements the range of wages in bleaching and dye houses would appear to be from 87 c to 1 dol. 40 c, averaging 1 dol. 20 c. per hand. The difference between rates of wages and actual earning is very marked in these statements. The proportion of each kind of operative employed Number of may be gathered from the following example : — hands. Bleachers and dyers .. 30 Calenderers and folders .. 15 Folders and stitchers (women) .. 11 Trimmers (girls) . . 9 Helpers (boys and girls) .. 23 Labourers .. 24 Carpenters 6 Machinists 5 Engine room .. 7 130 7. Print Works. According to the Massachusetts Industrial Statis- tics for 1870 the annual earniag or wage paid per hand was, in cotton and woollen print works, 379 dollars, or 71Z, Is. 3d. a year, giving 1 dol. 26 c, or 4s. 8|tZ. a day. In the Philadelphia district it was 385 dollars, or 72Z. 3s. 9d. a year, giving 1 dol. 28 c, or 4s. 9^d. Wages in print works. 486 UNITED STATES. Number of hands and wages. * = D. c. D. c. £ 3. d. Overseer 1 18 00 18 00 3 7 6 Assistant 1 12 00 12 00 2 5 At the opener 1 4 00 4 00 15 ,, spreader .. 1 5 00 5 00 18 9 At 2 lappers 1 9 00 9 00 1 13 9 52 cards \ (men) 9 001 8 oo; 17 00 3 3 9 Railway (4 heads) 1 4 50 4 50 16 10^ Drawing heads 1 4 00 4 00 15 150 Slubber spindles . . 1 8 00 8 00 1 10 300 intermediate 2 7 50 15 00 2 16 3 1100 fine speeder 6 7 50 45 00 8 8 9 Also grinder 1 10 50 10 50 1 19 4i Sweeper 1 4 00 4 00 15 Helf)er 1 9 00 9 00 1 13 9 Total 21 165 00 30 18 9 room. UNITED STATES. 493 In a mill running on coarse goods the card minders are often boys or girls at 5 dollars, or 18s. 9d. a week per twenty to twenty-six cards, self-strippers. This may, however, be bad economy. The eflB.ciency of the labour in the Carding depart- Their produc- ment may seemingly be taken at about 100 lbs. of carded *'°°- product per hand per day, the superintendence being as one to nine in number. In this department, with the machinery now in use, a labourer can produce twice as much as he could have done twenty or thirty years ago. 151. In tlie Spinning departments the arrangements in spinning. vary much. For instance, a mule spinner pieces, and there are only cop boys in the room to assist him. But more usually he has a piecer and back boy. In New England a spinner and boy to two pairs of mules in a 90-foot mill are sometimes to be found. In the Phila- delphia district, a spinner with assistance minds 1,500 or 1,440 mule spindles. In Rhode Island, in a fine mill, a mule spinner with back boy minds 1,250 spindles spinning 28s. and 36s. There are as many instances of as few as 650 to 700 spindles to a spinner and back boy and piecer. Ring spinning requires about the same attendance per spindle as other throstle spinning. I have heard, however, of a girl (piecer ?) attending six and a-half sides of ring spin- ning, say 1,300 spindles. Usually a girl attends to four sides. According to the data scattered throughout the Tiieir pioduc records of the Fall River strike, it may be asserted that ''""• a spinner, averaging 2 dollars, or 7s. 6^., a day, spins on mules from 170 lbs. to 180 lbs. of yarn (35s.) a day to pay himself, and then If dollars per week to the back boy. The efficiency of the mule spinner in the United States might seemingly be taken at 150 lbs. per day for himself, and 25 to 30 lbs. for his back boy. But in some cases his efficiency is certainly greater, ranging to 230 and 240 lbs., averaging 30s. In this department the labourer can produce twice as many lbs. of yarns as twenty to thhty years ago on the same number of spindles. 152. In the Dressing department the "Slasher" is in dressing. making a great change. It is commonly said- that one ''"°'°- man with a Slasher can dress as many yards in a given [358] 2 M 494 TTNITBD STATES. In weaving, room. Hands i looms. Production of Proportion of hands in 8 mills. time as ten dressers with the usual machines. The efficiency of other operations may be inferred from there being five girls as spoolers and three girls as warper minders ia a 10,000 spindle mill. In a large mill with the new warper the proportion would be diminished in number and wage. In the Weaving department I can give a few more particulars. Here are some of them to show the number of weavers to looms, wherever they tend more than four : — 1 girl to 4 jean looms, 100 picks, 17 yards 135 turns. 1 girl to 4 to 7 print looms, 64 picks, 34 yards. 1 girl to 4 to 6 print looms, 64 picks, 44 yards 180 turns. 1 girl to 6 to 8 print looms, 64 picks, 35 yards 140 turns. 1 woman to 7 to 8 print looms, No. 32, 64 picks, 40 yards 156 turns. 1 woman and child of 12 years to 10 print looms, No. 32, 64 picks, 40 yards 156 turns. . 1 girl to 4 gingham looms, 140 turns. 1 girl to 3 to 5 sheeting looms (in Ohio). The work which is required of an eight-loom weaver of print cloth appears to be 40 cuts a week, which are equal to from 10 to 11 dollars, or IZ. 17s. Gd. to 21. Os. 3d., in wage. If he do not work up to this, he may not be "wanted." The Gingham loom weaver seems to be expected to produce 20 cuts a week. These quantities might, therefore, be taken as indicating the standard of efGiciency of the weaver in the United States. A girl weaver can now produce twice the quantity of cloth she could have produced twenty to thirty years ago. 153. If it be assumed that the nearly complete Heturns from eight large establishments in Massachusetts, as quoted in paragraphs 130 to 141, are substantially correct as to number of hands employed, then the following proportions of hands in each department can be deduced from them. No. of Hands. Per 1,000 Spindles. Carding and blowing rooms . Spinning ditto . . Di'essing ditto Weaving ditto Cloth ditto Kepair shop, &c.. . , 831 1,090 642 2,140 157 848 2-4 3 1-8 60 0-45 1-00 Total .. 14-65 UNITED STATES. 495 Or say fourteen and a-half hands per 1,000 spindles. In a fine mill in New England it is about twelve and a-half hands per 1,000 spindles. From the Lowell, Lawrence, and other local statistics P™portion of the following proportions of all hands per 1,000 spiadles Loweii^and can be deduced : — o^^r places. Mais. Nature of Products. No. of Hands. No. of Spindles. Hands per 1,000 Spindles. 1 Pi-int cloth 170 11,000 15 2 Ditto .. 130 10,000 13 3 Ditto .. 1,900 105,500 17 4 Ditto .. 133 8,850 15 5 Print cloth and sheeting 270 . 16,500 16 6 Ditto ditto 816 52,000 16 7 Ditto ditto 1,600 100,000 16 8 Ditto ditto, No. 30 to 40 1,500 92,000 16 9 Fine shirtings, &c. . . 1,600 80,000 20 10 Sheetings, &c.. No. 14 520 27,100 19 . 11 Ditto, No. 10 to 37 1,170 77,000 15 12 Ditto .. 250 17,000 15 13 Ditto .. 360 20,000 18 14 Jeans, sheetings, print cloth, &o. 1,200 71,000 17 15 Sheeting, &c., print cloth, hosiery- 1,630 75,400 21 16 Ditto ditto, ticks, stripesj &c. . . 1,100 51,250 21 17 Shirtings, corset jeans, ginghams, dress goods 875 33,300 26 18 Ginghams 354 10,000(?) 35 19 Denims, stripes, ticks, &c. . . 370 26,000 18 20 Sheetings, ticks, &c. 233 10,000 23 21 Flannels, quilts and sheetings . 1,000 51,600 19 It should be recollected that in these proportions of hands is often included the number of hands in an extensive repair shop, which in many instances might be called a machine shop. 154. The next point is to indicate the production Efficiency of from a given plant within a given period by a given ^"i^^" "'' ^'"* number of hands ; and this is perhaps the most difficult point on which to find information. The local statistics of Lowell and Lawrence show bearing upon this point : — the foUowina: data as 2 M 2 496 UNITED STATES. Mill. Hands. Spindles. Looms. Yards per ■Week. Kinds of Product. 1 2 3 4 *5 6 t7 520 1,170 1,500 1,200 1,075 1,950 875 3,000 (worsted) 27,088 77,002 92,060 71,000 51,268 105,568 33,280 105,888" 23,884 ■ 764 2,091 2,000 1,724 1,322 2,583 750 3,671 160,000 420,000 380,000 380,000 225.000 j 490,000 125,000 700.000 1 Sheetings, drills, &c.. No. 14, Ditto ditto. No. 10 to 37. Sheeting and Printers, No. 30 to 40. Jeans, flannels, sheetings, &c. Flannels, ticks, stripes, &c. Sheetings, &c.. No 5 to 53. Print cloth, No. 30 to 37. Ginghams, trouserings, &c. Cotton and wool dress. Goods and prints. * J^th of weight of production is wool worked up in the mill. •j- In this mill there is some labour for dyeing, which I cannot separate. Prom these data it can be inferred tliat in round numbers the production per band per week is — 1. Of sheetings, &c., No. 14 2. Of ditto, No. 10 to 37 3. Of sheetings and printers, No. 30 to 40 4. Of various 5. Of ditto, No. 5 to 53 6. Of printers, No. 30 to 37 7. Of various 8. Of cotton and wool dress goods Yards. 300 350 250 310 210 250 140 235 Production per Likcwise it may be inferred tbat tbe production per oom an our. j^^j^ ^^^ ^^^ q£ elcveu bours and per bour is, Hands. Per day. Per hour. No. Yards. Yards. 1. Of sheetings, &c., No. 14 0-68 35 3-2 2. Of ditto, Nos. 10 to 37 0-56 35 3-2 3. Of sheetings and printers, Nos. 0'75 32 3-0 30 to 40 4. Of vnrious . . 0-69 37 3-4 5. Of ditto, Nos. 5 to 53 0-80 28i 2'6 6. Of printers, Nos. 30 to 37 0-74 32 30 7. Of various . . 1-17 27| 2-5 8. Of cotton and wool dress goods . 0-82 32 3-0 Tbe two print clotb mills (Nos. 3 and 6) agree as to production and number of bands required. Tbe cotton and worsted mill (No. 8) bas tbe same production, but owing to the working of the wool requires 10 per cent, more hands. Tbe two sheeting mills (Nos. 1 and 2) agree as to production, but tbe fine mills seem to require fewer hands. These statistics show however a rather low average rate of speed for the looms in print cloth mills. UNITED STATES. 497 A print mill of over 82,000 spindles produced at ten hours a day 3,223 yards per loom per hour, and at eleven hours a day from 3,285 yards to 8,375 yards, or an average of 8,803 yards per hour. Another priat mill of over 10,000 spindles produced, running ten hours a day, 3,664 yards per loom per hour, and running eleven hours a day, 3,712 yards per hour. A Gingham mill of 26,000 spindles produced an Ginghams-, average of the whole year, all terms of the comparison excepting the running time remaining the same, as follows : — Yards per loom per hour.' In 1860— , Running full time. . 11 hours ■ 2-34 la 1862— Running half time . In 1863— 6i „ 2-30 Running three-quarter time. . In 1868— Bi „ 2-29 Runninij full time. . 11 „ 2-45 In the same mill a weaver produced as follows : — Cuts in 1 1 hours. In 1862— Half time 5^ hours , 2,727 In 1863— Three-quarter time .. Si „ 2,708 In 1868— Full time ..11 „ 3,063 A priat cloth mill of about 3,700 spindles produced. Print cloths, all other things being equal, — In 1867— Pieces. Yards. Running 10 hours . . 3,861 a week, or 2,895f per hour. In 1869— Running 11 hours .. 4,350 „ 2,966 In 1870— Running 11 hours .. 4,356 „ 2,970 „ Another print cloth mUl of nearly 4,500 spindles produced, — In 1867— Yards. Yards. Running 10 hours . . 36,210 a day, or 3,621 per hour. In 1869— Running 11 hours .. 39,984 „ 3,635 „ 498 TJNITBD STATES. Sheetings. Average efficiency. Efficiency in thread-mill. In hosiery. In printing. Anotlier print mill of nearly 200 hands produced in 1870-71 about 2,500 pieces a week, or 12j pieces of 45 yards per hand, or 8| yards per hand. Another print Tnill in five weeks with 535 hands, running ten hours a day, produced 1,125,000 yards, at a cost of 20,294 dollars in wages, ; and with 486 hands, running eleven hours, 1,495,357 yards at a cost of 21,442 dollars in wages ; in the latter case at reduced rates of wage and increased rate of speed of machinery. These data show 7 yards and 9'8 yards per hour per hand respectively. These results differ considerably from the results deduced from the Lowell and Lawrence published statistics. A coarse sheeting mill of 22,000 spindles produced 9,000 lbs. or 30,000 yards daily of heavy drills, sheetings, and shirtings. A fine sheeting ^m^^^ of 30,000 spindles produces 1,600 lbs., or 15,000 yards of fine sheeting, shirting and lawns of the finest yams in the United States. I think it may be inferred with approximate accuracy from these data that the actual production averages in print miUs 3J yards, in sheeting mills 3 J yards, and in Gingham roills 2f yards per loom per hour, but in print mills may range to as many as 5 yards per loom per hour. Ldkevrise it may be inferred with similar approach to truth, that the efficiency of labour and plant may be measured by an actual average production in print and sheeting mills of 5 yards, and in Gingham mills of 2^ yards per hand per hour. Hence taking the average daily rate of wage at IJ dollars, it may be that the efficiency of the labour and plant is in white work 5 yards per hour at a wage cost of 11^ cents,, or nearly 5 |d., and in coarse coloured work 2J yards at a similar wage cost. In a thread mill of 30,000 spindles the production of 436 persons, working 11 hours a day for 26 weeks, was 375-340 dozen spools of cotton thread. The production of 356 persons, working 8j hours a day for 5 weeks, was 52,700 dozen spools. The former shows 6-11 spools and the latter 7 "18 spools per hand per hour. 155. In hosiery 105 hands appear to be able to make 120,000 dozen of women's hose. In Lowell a Tnill of 10,400 spindles produces 700 dozen of hose in general in a day. In printing, according to the Lawrence local statistics, 1,000 hands print and dye per week 953,687 •UNITED STATES. 499 yards of calicoes and cotton and worsted dress goods, at a cost in wages of 8,100 dollars. In Ohio 225 looms, averaging 100 turns, making iti owo. sheetings Nos. 14, 44, and 48, produced 18,650 yards, at a cost of about 1,100 dollars in wage. In Georgia 507 hands, costing 87,547 dollars, pro- in Georgia. duced in six months 1867-68 3,888,300 yards, the 505 looms averaging 49 g yards daily per loom. As regards the general efl&ciency of a cotton mill in in general. the United States it may be mentioned that in a spinning and weaving mill of 60,000 spindles, running in finer numbers averaging No. 50, the produce per month of the first two months after starting was 91 per cent, of the possible product. Lastly, the result deduced from the Census Statistics According to in Table (H) of subdivision a of this part of the Report, Census. may be referred to as tending to confirm the results obtained in the preceding paragraphs as to the efficiency of labour and plant. That column shows about eleven men to every 100 lbs. of product. The results in the preceding paragraphs, stated in the same terms, show about ten men to every 100 lbs. of product. V- Cost of Labour. 156. The rise in the price of labour may be gathered Riae in labour, from the two following illustrations. The labour in a yard of calico, running 7 to the lb., 64 x 64, and Nos. 28 and 40, was in 1860 Ixb^ cents, and in 1872 Ij^ cents. Goods which cost per yard li^nr cents in 1840, l-^^ cents in 1850, 1-1^0% cents in 1860, and 2 cents in 1870, stUl cost 2 cents per yard in 1873, including all labour from the first outlay on cotton by opening the bales, to the packing and invoicing of the cloth. It has also been stated that the kind of work costing in daily wage 1 dol. 12 c, or 4s. 2^d. in 1860, now costs 1 dol. 35 c, or 5s^. O^d. The following highest and lowest wages in 1861 and 1872 will also illustrate the rise in labour : — 500 TJNITED STATES. Day Wages, 1861. Day Wages, 1872. Highest. Lowest. Highest. Lowest. Mule spinners Dresser minder Carder (3rd hand) . . D. c. 1 38 1 25 .1 00 D. c. 1 17 0*75 D. c. 2 00 2 00 1 25 D. c. 1 35 0*90 Cost of labour per hand in 8 mills. By classes. The present price of labour can be gathered from the facts and estimates already recorded in this Report. !Prom these also the cost of labour to the manufacturer can be ascertained with approximate accuracy. If it be assumed that the nearly complete Returns from eight large establishments, probably representing 350,000 spindles, in Massachusetts, as quoted in para- graphs 130 to 141, are substantially correct as to the number of hands employed in each department, and as to the actual earnings of each class of hand ; and if it be further assumed that the actual rates of pay per day deduced from these actual earniags represent very nearly the actual cost of each class of hand per working day of eleven hours to the manufacturer, the following Table, which I have calculated, will represent with some approach to truth the average actual cost of labour per day for eleven hours in a cotton mill : — Table showing Cost of Labour per Hand. No. of Hands. Wage per Day. Total Cost of Labour. 1. Carding and blowing rooms — Supervision . . Preparation . . Carding Other labour , . 58 487 232 54 D. c, 1 97 1 02 1 20 72 s. d. 7 4i 3 10 4 6 2 9,\ D. c. s. d. Proportionate average . . 831 1 16 4 4i 1 16 4 4i 2. Spinning room- Supervision . . Spinning Other labour . . 69 921 100 2 07 84 70 7 9 3 If 2 7i Proportionate average . . 1,090 90 3 4i 90 3 4i ■UNITED STATES. 501 No. of Hands. Wage per Day. Total Cost of Labour. 3. Dressing room — Supervision . . All other labour 43 599 D. c. 2 03 1 10 s. 7 4 d. 71 11 D. c. s. d. Proportionate average . . 642 1 16' 4 4i 1 16 4 41 4. Weaving room- Supervision . . Weavers Other labour . . 92 1,721 135 2 04 1 371 1 09 7 5 3 7| 1* Proportionate average . . 1,948 1 38 5 2 1 38 5 2 5. Cloth room — Supervision . . All other labour 12 145 2 271 1 02 8 3 6i 10 Proportionate average , . 157 1 12 4 2* 1 12 4 21 6. Repair shop, &c. — Supervision . . All other labour 6 170 3 75 2 72 14 10 Of 2| Proportionate average . . 176 2 75 10 3| 2 75 10 3J 7, Engine room — Engineers Firemen 3 11 2 21 1 81 8 6 8 Proportionate average . . 14 1 97 7 4| 1 97 7 4f 8. Watchmen . . 47 1 57 5 10* 1 57 5 101 9. Other labour — Supervision . . Labourers 7 103 2 234 1 75 8 6 4| 6| Proportionate average . . 110 1 78 6 8 1 78 6 8 Proportionate average of 6, 7, 8, and 9 . .. ■ • .. 2 22 8 4 If, moreover, the Returns from which the foregoing Total cost by Tahle is calculated he assumed to give a suhstantially ^d. per lb. of product. (3.) The average cost of labour in fine print cloth is from 18 to 14 cents, or about 6^d. per lb. of product. 1^4.) The average cost of labour in sheetings is from 8 to 9 cents, or about 3fd. per lb. of product; fine standard sheeting being a small fraction over 4d. per lb. In tbe West these rates per lb', would range rather in west. higher. But coarse sheetings, 280 yards to the lb., do not seem to cost more than 8 cents, or 3|d. for labour per lb. of product in Ohio. In the Philadelphia inPhiiadei- district they might range a fraction lower. In the South l^'i^^^-^ they would be rather lower. According to the statistics of a 4,000 spindle mill, ring spinning, the cost of aU labour (including packing) per lb. of product for spinning yarn No. 20 was about 3^ cents, or about If d. If the weaving be assumed to cost about 10 per cent, more than the spinning, then the total cost of labour for cloth, coarse sheetings, would be nearly 7 cents, or 3^d. per lb. In a larger mill the cost should be less. In another mill, of 505 looms, the cost of all labour was only about 6 cents, or nearly 2^d. per lb. of product of heavy sheetingsi. ItwiU be remembered that the Census Statistics were * Novemher 12. — ^At the present date fi»lly 15 per cent, should be deducted, and for a few years probably 10 per cent. — J. P. H. G. 508 UNITED STATES. Compared with Census. Cost of labour in printing. shown (paragraphs 38 to 46) to indicate similar results, the variation being greatest in sheetings. Cost of Labour as Indicated. By Census. By Preceding Computations. d. d. In the aggregate. . In print cloth In standard sheeting 5'2 5-4 4-8 4-5 6'25 3-8 to 4-0 In standard sheeting in South 3-0 3-0 163. In printing, the labour cost, as shown by the E/cturns of the Pacific Mills, Lawrence, is nearly 9 mills, or ^^d. per yard for printing and dyeiag calico and delaines and other mixed goods. The cost of labour in bleaching, dyeing, and printing, and in hosiery, thread, and narrow fabric mills, would bear, with little variation, about the same proportion to the cost of labour in print cloth and sheetings as they do ia England. In some cases it could be computed from the data grouped under the respective headings in this' Report. {Vide also the deductions from the Census Returns in paragraphs 65 and 68.) As to lessening cost of labour. Working season. 6. The Possibilities of Lessening the Cost of Labour. 164. The relative cost of labour to product can be lowered by increasing the production of a given plant, and by diminishing the cost of assembling the instru- ments and materials of production in the mill. Some of the possibilities in these directions have been incidentally referred to in the course of this Report. {Vide paragraphs 70, 71, 74, 87-9, 99, 101, 116, and 124.) But it will also be of interest to inquire briefly into the possibilities of diminishing the absolute cost of labour in the United States. This is too large a subject for me, with so small an acquaintance with the conditions of the problem in this country, to do more than mention a few things which seem to bear upon the main points of interest as regards labour in the cotton manufacture. 165. The working season in the cotton manufacture seems, as regards the running of the mill, to average 300 days ; but as regards the operative, to average many days UNITED STATES. 509 fewer. Mr. Blodgett, in a lecture on the industry of Philadelpliia, remarked that, although the day wage of an operative might indicate an aimual earning of 1,000 dollars, the books of the mill would show an actual annual earning of only 900 or even 800 dollars. This would be equivalent to a working season of from 240 to 270 days instead of 300 days. In Massachusetts the actual working period has been stated to average five full days a week, or 260 days in the year. In other state- ments the wage-earning days were 270. In some E5d.) or less per ^''p^"'^^- lb. of produst. 'Eire insurance is about 3 miUs per dollar. This may Fire insurance, be taken to represent, say, a quarter of a dollar (or ll\d.) per spindle per annum.' Interest and wear and tear may be taken at an aver- interest and age of 2 dol. 50 c, or 95. 4-«<'i»«<«'- Interest in the aggregate is about 50 per cent, more for manufacturing purposes in the United States than in England, A mill-owner in liigh credit can procure money at 6 per cent. Outside the banks other manu- facturers might have to pay 10 to 12 per cent. Then there are, perhaps, rather more frequently " corners," and also a periodical tightness in the autumn in the mioney market, which tend to raise the average cost of money. This periodical tightness is partly owing to the moving of the crops and the " stocking up " of cotton taking place at the same time. The mean rate of interest for fifteen years previous to 1860 was 9"12 per cent, according to the high authority of Mr. Erastus Bigelow. In contrast with it he showed that the mean rate during the same period was in England nearly 4 per cent., and in France a little over 4 per cent. In the two latter cases the rates were those of the banks or of the market for the best paper. 172. Local taxation is in some instances a large item. Local taxation. I quote the following extract from Mr. Commissioner Wells' Eeport of 1868 :— " If we select as an example the cotton manufacture in Great Britain and the United States respectively, we find that in the former country the incidence of all local or other direct taxation extends only to the rental value of the buildings for the reception of machinery or the 518 UNITED STATES. promotion of other details of the business, and does not in any way regard the value of the machinery which may be placed in such buildings, or the capital employed in its workirigs. On the other hand, in the United States the incidence of local taxation falls on everything con- nected with the business of cotton manufacture that is accessible, namely, buildings, land, and machinery ; and is, moreover, not unfrequently duplicated in the following manner — ^thus, factories are often built in this country rmder Acts of Incorporation in one State while the stock is held or owned chiefly in other States. The municipality in which the factory is located taxes the buildings and machinery, and collects the tax of the cor- poration ; the municipality, on the other hand, in which the stock-holder resides, taxes the stock to him at its market value as personal property, and leaving the owner no remedy. In one instance brought to the notice of the Commissioner, the aggregate of the local taxes imposed on a particular corporation in 1866 amounted to 4*-^ per cent, upon the capital invested, and in 1868 to over 4 per cent. But vicious as this system is upon its face, its effect, especially in a national point of view, cannot be realized until we take into consideration the fact that the capital required in the United States to build a cotton mill is about double the amount required for a similar purpose in Great Britain : 4 per cent., therefore, on the capital of a cotton mill in the United States represents 8 per cent, on the same productive power in Great Britain, or a rate which is almiost double the aver- age rate of interest in the latter country." In a Southern mill in 1868 the amount of taxes actually paid amounted to more than 3 per cent, of the market value of the stock. Moreover, it should be recollected that 1 per cent, of local taxation may be taken to represent on the average 30 cents, or 1*. l^d, per spindle per annum. Local taxation is a most im- portant subject to the United States, and especially its bearing upon the industry of the country, and merits more notice than can be given to it in this Report. Although the local debts incurred for the war against the South are being rapidly extinguished, the burden of local taxation is not, taking the country throughout, likely to be lightened. But I can only state this at present as an impression, and not as an opinion of any UNITED STATES. 519 weiglit. One great evil in the local taxation, as will be gathered from the foregoing extracts, is the want of uni- formity in its incidence, and the resulting disparity in the cost of producing in diflferent States of the Union. 173. Charges on cotton form an item of expense of charges on which all the factors are not always included in the cost "o"""- of the raw material as sold to the manufacturer. The amount of such charges on cotton in general may he inferred from the statement that at Boston cotton can be held at the same cost as at liverpool, except in respect of interest, and at less cost than elsewhere in the United States. The following is a statement of some charges on Cotton in Cincinnati : — Cotton Business. 1. Regular rates of insurance established by Board of Underwriters to be charged. 2. The charge for fire insurance, one-quarter of 1 per cent, per month. 3. Charge for drayage, unless delivered free by trans- portation companies, 20 c, per bale from river, 25 c. per bale from railroad. 4. Charge of labour and mending, 25 o. per bale. 5.^ Charge for weighing, 20 c. per bale. 6. Charge for storing, 40 c. per bale. 7. Charge for municipal tax, one-eighth of 1 per cent. 8. Charge for commission on sales of cotton, 2 J per cent., but in no case less than 1 dol. 50 c. per bale. 9. Interest at the rate of 10 per cent, per annum on all advances of every character. 10. Cotton held longer than sixty days shall be liable to an additional charge of 2 and 1^ per cent, on amount advanced and accrued charged. In a Southern mill the following items were charged in 1868 in the cost of manufaetiuing No. 20 yarns : — D. c. Salaries . . 64 per lb. of product. Wear and tear . . 126 Miscellaneous 56 c, say 28 or one-half for general expenses. Total . . 2 22 (or 1 yards to the lb.; cottonades, weigh from 4 to 12 ounces to 536 UNITED STATES. Many styles in a mill. Prices in Cincinnati. Production number of yarn. Bulk of trade. Quantity and value in 1SG5 to 1871. the yard ; cassimeres, from 6 to 14 ounces to the yard ; jeans, from 3 to 6 ounces to the yard. Except in some mills for 28-inch print cloth, it is possible to manufacture a large variety of goods and styles. Usually ten to thirty different styles of a few kinds of goods can be produced in the same establish- ment, but sometimes the number ranges to from 200 to 300. 186. The following will show prices in Cincinnati, Ohio, for three years : — 1869. 18 70. 1871. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D.c. D.c. Brown sheeting . , 16i to 17 12i to 13i- 12 to 13 Bleached goods . , 18 25 17 24 15 21 Merrimac prints 12i 15 lU 13i lOi Hi Delaines 18 20 18 20 20 Ginghams .. 12i 27i 12i 22 12i 21 Denims Hi 32i Hi 27i 10 25 Cassimeres 65 2 25 65 2 25 75 2 50 Satinets 65 1 75 65 1 75 70 2 00 Doeskins 1 00 3 GO 1 00 3 00 1 00 3 25 Kentucky jeans .. . 15 75 15 75 15 75 187. As to the distinction between North and South it can be mentioned that in the South the average num- ber of yarn was 12|-, whereas in the North it was 27|- in 1868. The production of cotton goods in the United States is mainly, as has been already seen from the Census Statistics (vide paragraph 34), in the standard sheetings, shirtings, drillings, and print cloth, and in coarse coloured work. The value of it, as given by the Census, has also been noticed. The following statement gives the quantity and value of production in 1865 to 1871, as returned to the Cotton Manufacturers' Association. Quantity. Value. Lbs. Dollars. 1865-66 246,686,000 204,032,550 1866-67 290,930,000 185,006,850 1867-68 344,980,000 180,737,200 1868-69 346,680,000 189.002,000 1869-70 343,170,000 169,972,000 1870-'7l 412.980,000 165,060,750 This value represented cost at the mil], to which should be added the expenses of distribution and the UNITBD STATES. 537 profits of manufacturers and dealers, to arrive at the value, for consumption. It will be observed that the average of 1869-71, which may be taken to represent the Census year 1870, was in quantity 378,075,000 lbs., at a value of 167,516,376 dollars, showing a value per lb. of 44 cents. 3 mills, or Is. 8d. ; whereas, according to the Census, the value per lb. was 61J cents, or Is. lid. As the former was returned as cost in the factory, the latter may be the value at mill plus 10 per cent, for profits and commission. 188. The following Table also in the " Proceedings Cotton manu- of the National Association of Cotton Manufactures " ism!^ '° shows some details of importance which do not appear in the Census Pk^eturns. state. Mills. Spindles. 1^ Cotton Spun. Average per Spindle. Cotton otherwise used. Maine 32 443,800 34X 38,838,608 66 Kew Hampshire ... « 734,460 35J 48,089,439 65-46 1,389,700 Vermont 16 38,038 394 1,381,136 45-69 963,500 Massachusetts 153 3,396,050 37i 138,678,^44 67-90 197,000 Rhode Island 136 1,083,376 36i 61,938,373 47-06 Connecticut 86 663,616 39 33,340,U0 68-30 643] 500 New York 91 463,678 m 33,656,041 66-41 4,135,000 New Jersey 30 175,043 32| 10,767,600 61 61 Pennsylvania 83 399,083 IH 36,907,531 90 3,336,'600 Delaware 9 48,893 31 3,288,260 67-46 Maryland 18 83,970 llj 16,609,308 300 Ohio 5 33,834 13 3,170,000 138-33 eo'aooo Indiana 1 10,800 14 1,493,061 138-36 Missouj'i 4, 13,436 10 2,475,000 184-21 Total 693 6,453,974 37J 398,433,133 61-46 11,260,700 Virginia 10 36,060 17i io| 4,010,000 111-18 North Carolina ... 20 37,369 4,147,000 151-37 ... South Carolina 6 31,688 13* 4,174,100 133-14 Georgia 83 89,183 Hi 14,699.360 165-16 Alabama ^. 8 36,196 17 2,820,598 113 Mississippi 6 8,763 , 9 1,457,000 166-48 Texas i 8,638 94 1,372,104 160-90 Arkansas 3 934 S4 358,400 268-83 Tennessee 10 13,730 10 1,847,200 134 Kentucky 3 6.364 10 1,075,000 171-62 Total 101 347,683 12A 35,860,750 144-60 Northern States ... 693 6,453,974 37J 398,433,133 61-46 11,260,700 Southern States ... 101 347,683 12i 35,860,760 144-60 Total 79i 6,700,667 27i 434,393,883 64-83 11,360 700 189. This subdivision of the subject would not be price of complete without addiug the prices of waste, the cent ^^^*^' being 0"45d., or nearly a halfpenny : — 538 "UNITED STATES. Rise in cost of production. Advantage in England less than supposed. Wholesale Prices. — Revised October 3, 1872, Quotations fumislied by Jolm M. Smith and Co. c. No. Al cop waste No. 1 No. No. No. No. per lb. 15 to 16 14 15 14 15 11 12 9* 10 9 H % IH H 141 16i H 9 9 11 8 9 4 7 5f 8 2 3i 4* 5 3 H 0* 1 1 white machine waste 1 coloured machine waste White bleached waste Coloured washed waste No. 1 strip and fly waste No. 2 Spinners' waste Wadding stock Willowed picker waste Oily card waste Sweepings White oily cop waste Coloured „ Railroad „ fc." Cost of Production. 190. As regards the cost of production in the cotton manufacture, it is uniTersally stated that the rise in the cost of labour has not been counterbalanced by the increased efficiency of the machiaery. The facts are usually stated thus : — The rate of increase in production, from machinery, economising labour, and producing goods more quickly, has not exceeded 50 per cent. ; whereas labour has increased 50 per cent., and on some goods more than 50 per cent, in the period from 1860 tcf 1872. Moreover, it has been stated on good authority that the average cost of manufacturing is 25 per cent, more than it was before the war. This increase is attributed in whole, or in large part, by one school of economists to the waste of the war, to the state of the currency, to taxation, and to the consequently enhanced cost of labour, machinery, and supplies. The repeal of the Reciprocity Treaty with Canada is also mentioned as helping to produce the increase. 191, But, whatever the rise iu the cost of manu- facturing, the following opinion by Mr. Batchelder, in 1863, is still held by many to be true of 1873 : — " The advantage of manufacturing in England, on account of wages, is much less than we have generally supposed. The business is, no doubt, conducted there UNITED STATES. 539 more economically in many particulars than with. us. The cost of machinery is less, and the interest on capital is less ; and fine articles, or such as require experience and skill, can undoubtedly be produced cheaper there than here ; but it is questionable whether many goods, such as drillings and sheetings, which make up a very large proportion of the consiimption of this country, can be produced cheaper than in the United States." 192. I now propose, under this heading of Cost of Production, to give a summary of the results already obtained as to mill supplies, cost of labour, general expenses and interest, and wear and tear, and to support or correct these indications of cost of production by such other statements as I have been able to meet with. These indications are collected in the following sum- maries, in which I quote only the sterling, and in which I repeat the corresponding deductions from the Census Statistics.* Average Cost of Manufacturing Yarns. Per lb. of Product. 1872. 1870. Mill supplies Labour . . General expenses . Interest and wear and tear. . d. 0-35 0-25 0-45"! 0-9 / d. 0-4 2-25 2-03 Total 3-95 4-68 Cost of manu- facturing yams, Average cost of manufacturiag cotton goods (white Cotton goods, work) in. the aggregate in the North : — Mill supplies Cost of kbour General expenses Interest and wear and tear Total .. Per lb. of Product. 1872. d. 6-9 4-5 0'9\ I-S/ 8-1 1870. d. 1-57 5-18 3-37 10-12 1870. d. 1-35 4-73 3-15 9-23 * November 16. — It should be borne in mind that the cost of labour has now declined. Perhaps 10 per cent, would be a fair deduction for probable cost nf labour for a few years. — J. P. H. G. 540 UNITED STATES. Print cloth. Sheetings in North. Sheetings in South. In the figures deduced from the Census some other work is included. Average cost of manufacturing print cloth, 64x64ij 28 iach, 7 yards per lb. in the North : — ff Per lb. of Prodiict. 1872. 1870. Mill supplies Cost of labour General expenses . Interest and wear and tear . d. 1-68 6-26 • 0-9 \ 2-03/ d. 0-918 5-350 5-540 Total 10-76 11-808 Average cost of manufacturing 36-inch sheetings and the Uke, 2i^ to 3 J yards to the lb. in the north : — Per lb. of Product. 1872. 1870. Mill supplies Cost of labour . . General expenses . Interest and wear and tear . d. 0'76 3-9 0-9 1 1-68/ d. 1-26 4-8 4-0 Total 7-14 10-06 Average cost of manufacturing the same in the South : — Per lb. of Product. 1872. 1870. Mill supplies Cost of labour . . General expenses . Interest and wear and tear. . d. 0-52 3-00 0-9 ) 1-58 3 d. 0-415 2-993 3-490 Total 6-00 6 -898 It is to be borne in mind that the third item in 1870, called " remainder," in the first subdivision of this part of the Report, probably contains charges for more than UNITED STATES. 541 general expenses and interest, and wear and tear^ or, in other words, the value of production in the Census pro- bably represents more than the value at mill. Moreover, it is to be remembered that the deductions from the Census may be in sterling fairly reduced one-eleventh {vide paragraph 47). If the smaller fractions be ignored, the results may Summary of be thus stated : — foregoing. The cost of manufacturing per lb. of product is — For Yarns . . . . 'id., or by Census 4.^d. White work in the North 8c?. „ Print cloth . . . . lOfrf. Sheetings . . . . 7^d. ,, lOd, 9^d. to lOd. Hid. Sheetings in the South 6d. 6tV. As regards the Census cost of producing sheeting in the North, it is to be observed that it has the cost of finer goods included in it, being an average of two and three in the Census Summary. 193. In order to test these results by the market cost of raw prices, it is necessary to add the cost of raw material. '"*'^''*'- If for 1872 that cost (with a due allowance for waste in the course of manufacturing) be taken at 20 cents, or 9d., per lb. of product for woven goods, the value at the mill would, as follows, compare with the average market price, and contrast with the deductions from the Prices. Census Returns. For yarns the raw material is taken at a halfpenny less, and for sheetings in the South at a penny less. Cost of Production and Price. 1872. 1870. Value Value at at Price. Value. Price. Mill.* Mill. s. d. .s. d ■s. d. s. d. s. d. Yarns 1 H 1 0* 1 2 1 2f 1 6 White work in general. . 1 8 1 5 1 9i Print cloth . . 1 9 1 7| 1 9i I 10- 1 11 Sheetings 1 7 1 41 1 6 1 8- 1 9 in South 1 4 1 2 1 5 1 5^ 1 7 Cost of pro- duction. * Estimate from Census. If I have succeeded in obtaining fair average market 1353] 2 V 542 ¥NITEII STATES. prices for these goods, I think the comparison of com- puted value with price shows that the former approach the truth ; but it must be recollected that the figures are not the figures of actual cost in any mill, or averaging a large number of mills, but only obtained by calctdations of no greater value than the data which are scattered throughout this Report, and upon which they are based. They are, therefore, merely indications, pointing with some degree of accuracy at the actual facts of American cotton manufacturing. Profits. 194. Profits are not a subject within the scope of the present inquiry; but it is evident that in the United States the accumulation from them must be sufficient to pay the increased amount of wages. This could be shown from the Census Statistics. As partly explanatory of the difference in the foregoing computation between value at roill and price, the following statements from the testimony in the inquiry respecting the prepared Ten Hour Bill in Massachusetts,' and from other publica- tions, may be adduced. The reduction , from eleven to ten hours would increase the cost per yard of print cloth f cent, or 0'17, and would seriously impair profits in competition with other States. If this were equally true of other mills, then from another statement it might be inferred that the profit was about 2 to 2^ cents per lb. of product. The reduction to ten hours would cost manufacturers 6 per cent, of their stock. Another mill made less than 3 per cent, per annum upon capital ia 1869 to 1871. The reduction to ten hours would, according to another, sweep away profits — "Profits are very small. Many of the manufacturers who have testified here have told you that they have made nothing for the last two or three years. One of them said he had made 3 per cent, per annmn, and he knew others who had made enormous losses." As to the average profits in the cotton manufacture in a series of years, in New England, the following opinions may be cited : — " I think the average profits of cotton miUs since the beginning have not been more than 6 per cent., lea-ving out the speculative element." Another statement puts it at 8 per cent., inclusive' of interest, from beginning to present date. '•' There have been years when our corporations made satisfactory dividends ; but, if taken together from the begia.ning, their annual irSriTED STATES. 543 income will not be found to average 7 per cent." JEalf- a-cent {0-225d.) a yard would, on 40,000,000 yards of printed and dyed calicoes, delaines, and other mixed goods, give 8 per cent, on the nominal capital of a large corporation mill. These statements, which I have quoted, tend to show what makes up the diflference between selling price and cost of production. It should be observed that the c'ost of power is Cost of power, distributed between cost of labour and of mill supplies. Eor ascertaining, its -cost, reference should be made to the data and remarks in paragraphs 92 to 101. 195. As confirmatory of the approximate accuracy other caicuia- of the foregoing calculations, the following, on another p3ucing°." °* basis, are added, Por mill supplies, ^ cent a yard is taken {vide paragraph 122) ; for labour ^^ cent per hank is taken {vide paragraph 161) ; and for general expenses, inclusive of interest and depreciation, one-half the cost of labour {vide paragraph 174) : — • Print Cloth. Sheeting in North. Average. Fine. Raw material Mill supplies . Labour General expenses s. d. 9 ■ 11 41 21 s. d. 9 Of 21 11 s. d. 9 Of 4} 21 Total . . 1 H 1 H 1 41 and sheeting. The cost of producing comes out about 2d. per pound less for print cloth, and about Id. per pound less for sheetings. 195. In support or correction of the indications as to cost of production, a few statements may also be quoted. In the Middle States it was usually considered that, in 1872, as cotton then ruled, calico could .be produced for about 45 cents, or Is. ^\d., and other white work for about 35 cents, or Is. 3fd. per lb. In the former the labour was reckoned at 13-n)- cents, or 5f cZ. {vide paragraph 156), and in the latter at 10 cents, or 4i\d. Coloured work was supposed to cost in production 35 to 52 cents, or from Is. 3|d. to Is. ll^d. per lb. In Massachusetts, in 1871, the fact was cited that, " during six months, ending in June, 1870, a 2 p 2 General state- ments as to producing: cost. 544 • UNITED STATES, certain cotton mill manufactured its goods at a total cost, including raw material, labour, repairs, &c., of 40 1^ cents, or Is. 6^d., per lb., and received on sales of its goods 41-/o cents, or not quite Is. Id., per lb., showing a profit of 1-^ cents, or fd., per lb. These figures worked out gave a profit on its total capital of 2f per cent." These goods may have been sheetings and the Hke, which averaged a little over 42 cents in 1870. According to certain statistics of four New England States — Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island — the production was, for 1870-1, in quantity 327,463,500 lbs., and in value 131,630,000 doUars, in which the value of cotton at mill was 50,715,000 dollars, and the value added by manufacture was, at the mill, 73,559,000 dollars. Now, these four States pro- duced 65 per cent, in weight, and 72^ per cent, in value, of the total production of the United States. The above figures worked out show an average cost of manufac- turing of 26 cents, or U^d. per lb. of product in the aggregate. Similarly the average cost of manufac- turing was, ia 1860-70, about 26 c. 4 m., or lid., and, in 1868-9, 28 c. 7 m., or lO^d. The above averages, even after allowing for the higher classes of goods manufac- tured in those States, seem rather high. On the other hand, Mr. Commissioner Wells, in his E-eport for 1869, estimates the cost of manufacturing cottons in the aggregate in. the United States at 16 c, 8 m., or 6d. per lb., for labour supplies and repairs, and, conse- quently, excluding general expenses, interest, and depreciation. In New England, too, it is common to speak of the cost of manufacturing a yard of calico as averaging 2^ cents, or l^d., exclusive of interest and wear and tear, per yard. In the Philadelphia district it was stated that the cost of manufacturing calicoes had risen from 12 cents to 20 cents, or from 5^d. to 9d. per lb., probably, also, exclusive of interest and depreciation. These , statements seem, on the whole, to confirm the general accuracy of the computations of cost of production . Costof 196. Printing seems to cost about 2d. for labour printing. ^^^ Y|rf. for mill supplies, chemicals and dyes, and other expenses, making a total of 9f d., which coincides with the deductions from the Census. UNITED STATES. 515 In hosiery it would seem that the progress has been Cost of pro- so great that, according to statements made in 1867, '"""° °"^'^' the manufacturer could produce, at 1 dol. 60 c, or 6s., per dozen with the 1867 price of cotton, and would be able, at 14 cents, to produce a substantial domestic article ia cotton stockings at a price of 12|- cents, or 5^d., to the consumer. This seems possible ; for cotton socks were (1872) marked in the retail shops at Lowell at 12 cents, or 1 dollar (3s. 9d.) the dozen. I regret, however, that I have not time to compute from the few; data in this Eeport the cost of producing hosiery, for the purpose of comparing it with that de- duced from the Census (vide paragraph 68). Neither can I attempt to calculate that of cotton thread. Eor other cotton goods the data cited are not sufficient for any but a manufacturer to arrive at an approximate idea of the cost of production. 197. As regards the South, it is usually said that its Advantages of advantages over the North, in manufacturing cotton, manufacturing. ought to be from 15 to 20 per cent. Messrs. Loring and Atkinson, in their " Cotton Culture and the South," dated 1869, thus enumerates the advantages of manu- facturing at the South, and near the cotton-fields : — "1. Plenty of cheap water-power in every Southern State. 2. A mild climate, avoiding the expense of fires for heating purposes,' except for a small portion of the year, as well as the freedom from danger from frost, and consequent ability to build lighter earthworks for canals, &c. 3. Low wages and plenty of operatives, men and women, who would not think of working as labourers in the field, will gladly become ' hands ' in a mill. 4. Saving in transportation and commission on both goods and raw material, buying the latter at the point of production, while a market for goods is to be had at the same place. Even if the yarns are exported, freights are lower for yarns than a corresponding amount of cotton lint ; and also the bagging and rope are saved as well as the freight on the same. Southern manufacturers have this great advantage over Northern competitors. The reduced cost of transportation enables them to buy their cotton in the seed. This works for the advantage of both planter and spinner. The planter can put all his hands into the field to pick, and gather his crop earlier, and more of it. The spinner can 546 UNITED STATES. Particulars of manufacturing in South. Saluda mills. Cost of manu- facturing yarn in South. separate tlie seed from the lint at the mill, using im- proved machines, unlimited steam-power, and skilled labour in the ginning, which, though perhaps the most important process of manufacture, is at present left to rude field hands. Every fibre of cotton that will spin can thus be sorted, and saved from the trash, and the seed can either be returned to the planter, or sold to be manufactured iato oH and oil-cake." 198. The following are accounts from the same publication of two successful mills in the South; the first of the Saluda Cotton Mills, and the second of the Augusta Factory, in Georgia. The Saluda Mills had a capacity of 4,000 spindles (Jenks' ring travellers), and manufactured No. 20 yam. It is probable that " a greater number of spindles, or the production of yarns of a lower number, would ensure a less cost per lb. : — c. m. Labour — Superintendent, 37 ; carding, 66 ; spinning, 76 ; reeling, 75 . . . . . . . . . . 2 44 Repair — Labor and material (machinery nearly new) . . 22 Packing, bundling, &c., labor and materials . , . . 58 General expenses — Watcb, 13 ; hauling, 32 ; findings, 20;,oil, 15; salaries, 64; miscellaneous, 56 .. 2 00 Total per lb. .. .. .. . . 5 24 Add — Loss by waste (450 lbs. cotton, costing 90 dollars, making but 400 lbs. of yam) . . . . . . 2 50 10 per cent, for wear and tear of machinery, charged to production, per lb. . . . . . . . . 1 26 Total cost of manufacturing cotton, worth 20c. per lb. . . . . . . . . 9 00 (or 4rf.) Freights to New York or Philadelphia, 65c., insur- ance 16c. . . . . . . . . . . 80 Cost cotton per lb. . . . . . . . . 20 00 Total cost per lb. of Southern yam (No. 20),. delivered in New York.. .. . . 29 80 (or 13id.) The very lowest estimate I have seen of the cost of manufacturing at the North, places cost of labor, repair, packing, and general expenses at per lb. . . 10 24 Loss by waste (cotton at 20c. in Columbia would be 221-0. in New York ; therefore, 450 lbs. cotton would cost 101 dols. 25c., and would make 400 lbs. yam) . . 2 81 10 per cent, for wear and tear of machinery . . . . 1 26 In North Total cost of manufacturing in the North . 14 31 (or 6id.) UNITED STATES. c. m. Add cost of cotton .. .. 22 50 647 Cost of No. 20 varus, manufactured at the North . . 36 81 (or 16irf.) Showing a difference in favor of the South, of per lb. (both using the same quality of cotton) . . . . 7 01 Deduct commissions, cartage, &c. . . . . . . 2 01 And we have a net profit to the Southern manufacturer, provided he sells at the cost of Northern production . 5 00 (or 2id.) " As furtlier evidence of the profits of Southern cotton manufacbtnring, we give below an account of six months' work .of the Augusta Eactory, one of the most successful of the South, from the report of the President, Wm. E. Jackson, Esq., presented at the semi- annual meeting, held June 30, 1868, in the City of Augusta, Georgia : — " In presenting my twentieth semi-annual Report, it is with pleasure I can state the condition of the Company is very favourable. Tj- C. Augusta The gross earnings for the past six months have Factory, been .. .. .. ., .. 135,610 65 Interest received . . . . . . . . 3,921 65 Total 139,432 30 Prom which is deducted — Expense account. . . . 8,731 64 Repairs account . . .. 3,475 11 Taxes paid . 19,691 41 31,898 16 Leaving as net profits . . . . 107,534 14 " Erom which two dividends of 5 per cent, each, amounting to 60,000 dollars, have been paid, enabling Us to carry to the credit of profit-and-loss account 47,534 dol. 14 c, making the amount now to the credit of that account 224,798 dol. 22 c. Mr. Jackson goes on to speak of the result of the ten years' work of the mill as follows : — " It may not be uninteresting to some of our present stockholders to state what has been accomplished in the past ten years. It will be remembered by those who were among the original purchasers, that the pro- perty was purchased of the city for 140,000 dollars on ten years' credit, with iaterest at 7 per cent, payable 548 UNITED STATES. semi-annually, and one-tentli of tlie principal annually, the purchasers paying in as commercial capital 60,000 dollars. This amount, in consequence of the dilapidated condition of the property, was almost entirely expended in the first two years in repairs, rendered necessary by the then condition of the property. " "We have, since the purchase, paid for the entire property, without calling on the stockholders for another dollar, added largely to the property by purchase and building, bought about 100,000 dollars' worth of new machinery, increased the capital to 600,000 doUars by the addition of a portion of the surplus, paid dividends regularly, and have now a property worth the par value (600,000 dollars) in gold." The Craven or a similar invention vrill increase the advantages of the South {vide paragraph 91). Cotton manu- In the Wcst the cotton manufacture is small, and West? " Jiot likely to increase to any extent. There are, never- theless, mills in Ohio and Indiana running success- fully, at a cost of production about the same as that in the East, with, however, labour rather higher. 3. Past Position. 199. The past position of the cotton manufacture, so far as the figures of each Census admit of comparison, is given in Table A, in the first sub-division of this Part. The following Table of the local statistics of Lowell shows some of the changes in the cotton manufacture. UNITED STATES. 549 m CO « 00 *■ eo '3 m* 1 -si g S 3 ci 00 II o r-l O CD s" §■" .g'a-^^ " "S 00 to hi r-l ra O CO 2 rf-Sco §.3 .1. fill §83- in 10 _ . 2 « s 1^ CO ■== So gs ss CI rc(^.- g CO o«<« *■=> i3'°" p4 ■xg M 11 o P- - O ira 3 S8 |1»' = p:t_ A CO Cl ■1 g Ills o P 5| = 8 i-H -* ooo ^ ■a oci o S 00 r-l SrH C3 CO O «o o &■ ■■ ■■ s 63 •CI o 1 pM o o» o ooo o 000 s t- p ^c^'o o bo -n 1000 b 00 o C oTrH ■*050 ■< «3 CO g-M Gi "i" § ; : r-To? §1 J'-?!5 tS-a •i^ ■3 ■§ 00 1 s . CO ""ooo ,3 ■II ill CO t:i lo WO o" S "" bu'-''^'^'^ ii 1 go i U3 eo_ CO ■* o^ i i"|" i 1 »-J ^t>.coo^ III CO c-i ooo o o°. il«- 000 2 ■*^ CO lOOO O OO _t5*.;3 2 6 000 1 r-J CO go" CT^ CO ■^ O^ O OCO "S -;2i co'cosd' : K •"■ 51 >al i ^i"^"l?^ gfli.5 2 S3 ■^ ^ CO « OOO O O o 000 Q it so 00 ^Sg oT-^t- 000 lO -^OCO g s" cf rH o" 5 " 'i flco : •3.0 ■Titeot^ "0 853 o* s| ■^■H-l « o |0 o -y CO «3>0 O inO»o aT""*" S"* 'B s t^ CO^ '^ «D O, ° :§. ^00 SO 3^ ^ oseoc-^ Sw-3 00 " 9 0» "CO of 'S ■WiOOO CO = : : i : ts i(S ' : : : : ■S.S : : J, ja i ■ ■ ^ ££■3 >t * : : S ^=•3 sl'3-^ a^ : ^1 s i 2 o o 52^ ll=s 1 S's o *S ooo OS'S -3 =11 *3 ^ Si d 'A d odd £31 .3 ^mJ II 1 n 13 550 UNITED STATES. 1 -tToi b <»-. OOO o 3C- ** S ™ Ocs :l3 gi§s=S^ t- OO o : : ^"5 So ? 03 KTjXn &■-■ o" i" ' " ".S'="gi-S" §.= o -* «^^ ^^ a.'O r-tO o 1 3 *•= = ct ^ ^ci cseso -1:5 = o.»oS° CO wo Ii CO S 1° CO"rH OICOO U3 1 = = : •>s j_, 1 i II OO <_)0 ®.° OOO OOO (0 i : ; So "" mcoco C-3 m" ■""Si a o O ^ coeo Odo o ;5 W" M-a = 8 oSg.gS GO CO t-cao o to bOM-gc g §•>» tOrH oooto o o . . "= M en ||;|.1a Sid = "■ B""a «3 is ? = g O ■s CO I-H Uj ill II 1 ^" =1111 .11 &D_. *■' O es o"3 L~^ V n s 1 CO g 3 5§ il ID f-t ill g||i g gs kJ i t3 CO : 1— 1 "" ' s 00*^ » § 11 rs-^ o-s s I1 wO».«"'oo !3_2oo ilil 8Sg8l1:H [fl fH oi pQQO _rQO in "^ '^ o o p =s t^ o'*„t» =^ CO o* r^ f-, o o : S : 1 00 CQrua" -■ -g|pf • 1 l""^ 1 §2"°° ^ 0--S n (a_, . . . ' ' & B'S'S 'S SS'--- u 11^ 3 1"- lll 01 ■s "S 6 d odd III a 1 QO ll^^goo fl ►S WrH ^ IS •U - — ■ jg „ :^ • : ■S^w • * ^-^^ :o,P.£, . : : u ■a •■= ^ «.§ = =3¥|1 :g ddafi ■3 i^?-'! §"|1"S -.^ = ■■^'1° 'S ^ gg 1 " „ •-sa"§ 3 " mi UNITED STATES. 551 200. Prom Mr. Bigelow's quarto on " The Tariff,'' I haye extracted the following Tables of Wages : — Ohaeacter of the Manufactures and Nature of Employment. 1839. 1849. 1859. Pei- Per Per 1. 5 yarn). Week. Week. Week. Manufacture nf Osnahurgs (iV D. c. D. 0. D. c. Cardings — Overseer . . male, by day 13 02 15 00 15 00 Second hand )» )) 7 50 7 98 9 00 Pickers, strippers, &c. 55 5) 4 32 4 56 4 50 Speeder tenters .. female, by job 4 26 3 66 3 60 Drawing tenters „ by day 2 82 2 76 2 76 Spinning (throstle) — Overseer . . male 13 02 15 00 15 00 Second hand • 3? 8 82 7 98 7 86 Other hands • )) 3 72 4 56 4 14 Ditto female 2 70 2 88 2 70 Filling .. ;» 3 72 3 50 3 06 Warp .. 5) 3 72 3 60 3 30 Dressing — Overseer . . male 12 00 12 00 13 50 Second hands ' )! ■ 7 50 7 50 8 76 Other ' >) 5 46 4 62 4 32 Ditto female 3 12 3 00 2 94 Dressers . . • )j 4 26 4 14 4 02 W.arpers . . )j 4 38 3 72 3 18 Drawing-in ' )S 3 60 3 24 3 54 Weaving — Overseer . . males 12 00 12 00 12 00 Second hands " )3 7 50 7 50 7 50 Other „ 55 4 50 5 22 4 68 Ditto female 2 82 2 76 3 06 Weavers , . k yards). 4 14 3 72 3 78 Hours of labour per wee 72 66 66 Manufaature of Drillings (14 Card room — Overseer . . male 12 00 12 00 15 00 Second hands = )? 7 60 7 50 8 28 Card grinders • ;» 6 28 6 00 6 30 Overseer of picking room 5) 6 00 6 52 8 28 Other hands in picking room. • ?» 5 70 5 10 5 22 Card strippers )) 4 66 4 80 4 50 Lap carriers • )5 3 06 4 50 4 50 Speeder and stretcher tenters female 3 22 3 28 3 15 Drawing tenters • 3) 2 74 2 66 2 49 552 "UNITED STATES. Card room (continued) — Lap winders, sweepers, and scrubbers . , . . female Spinning room — Overseers.. .. ,. male Second liands . . . . „ Third _ „ Warp spinners (throstle) . , female Warp doffers . . . . ., Ring-filling spinners . . „ Sweepers and scrubbers . . „ Dressing room — Overseer . , . , . . male Second hands Third „ Other hands Warpers . . . . . . female Dressers . . Drawers-in Sweepers and scrubbers . . „ Weaving room — Overseers . . . . . . male Second hands . . , . „ Third „ Bobbin boys . . . . „ Weavers . . . . . . female Sweepers and scrubbers . . ,, Cloth room — Overseer . . . . . . male Baler . . . , . , „ Looker-over . . . . female Measurers . . . . „ B^pair shop — Overseers of repairs, wood and iron . . . . . . male Hands in iron depart^lent of repairs . . . . . . „ Hands in wood department and painters . . . . „ Blacksmith . . . . ,, Watch and yard — Overseer of watch and yard . . ,, Watchmen . . . . „ Firemen . . . . . . „ Yard hands, including teamster „ Hours of labour per week 1839. Per Week. D. c. 2 83 12 00 7 50 82 16 76 17 46 12 00 7 SO 6 00 3 61 4 09 3 07 2 58 12 00 7 50 5 82 3 00 3 45 3 65 10 50 6 60 3 06 3 30 12 00 7 20 8 09 9 GO 10 50 6 84 5 76 1849. 1859. 72 Per Week. D. c. 2 70 12 00 50. 88 99 45 98 22 12 00 50 00 10 94 35 86 49 12 00 50 88 90 37 45 11 25 02 00 48 12 00 7 20 7 28 10 50 12 00 6 36 36 94 66 Per Week. D. c. 2 50 13 50 8 28 88 76 62 64 34 15 00 8 70 50 58 87 57 98 39 12 36 7 94 88 00 00 77 12 00 7 50 3 08 3 25 15 00 8 10 8 40 12 00 12 00 6 60 6 96 6 06 66 UNITED STATES. 553 1849. 1849. 1859. Per Per Per Week. Week. Week. D. c. D. c. D. c. Manufacture of Cotton Cloths of various \ descriptions. Card room — Overseer . . male 12 00 12 00 13 50 Second overseer )i 7 50 7 50 8 00 Opening maoliine tenters • 51 5 10 5 10 4 80 Picking . . )» 4 80 5 10 5 52 Card grinders ■ SJ 6 80 6 36 6 60 Strippers . . • )» 4 50 4 50 4 50 Drawing-frame tenters female 2 62 2 62 2 60 Speeder and stretcher tenters • 51 3 33 3 28 3 14 Spinning (self-acting) mules — Overseer . . male 15 00 13 50 Second overseer • 5) 9 00 8 00 Section hands • )5 6 60 7 00 Piecers (young men and boy s) 3 09 2 70 Doffors . . ■ 3) 4 50 4 50 Back boys (12 to 15 years' ol d) 1 80 1 50 Spinning (throstle) — Overseer . . 55 12 00 12 00 13 50 Second overseer • 3? 7 50 7 50 8 00 Keving boy (15 to 18 years ol d) 5 18 4 20 4 50 Spinners . . female 3 30 3 10 2 71 Dofier girls )» 2 60 2 46 2 00 Dressing room — Overseer . . male 12 00 12 00 13 50 Second overseer " * i» 7 50 7 50 8 00 Spoolers . . female , , 2 64 2 00 Wai-pers . . • )) 3 90 3 73 3 00 Web drawers • 3J 3 28 3 39 2 80 Dressers . . • * 55 4 61 4 04 4 13 Weaving room — Overseer . . male 12 00 12 00 13 50 Second overseer • )) 7 50 7 50 7 50 Third „ ' 5) 6 00 6 00 6 00 Weavers . . " 55 3 70 3 70 3 25 Watch and yard — Overseer . . ' 53 12 00 12 00 13 00 Second overseer • • 33 8 00 7 00 8 00 Watchmen • ■ 35 6 84 6 36 6 89 Common labom-ers . . • 5' 5 50 5 50 5 00 Repair shop — Overseer . . 33 18 00 15 00 18 00 Second overseer • ' 35 12 00 9 50 11 00 Mechanics • 3J ek 8 50 8 50 8 70 Hours of labour per we 72 66 60 554 UNITED STATES. 1839. 1849. 1859. Per Per Per hs. Week. ^7eek. Week. Manufacture of Printing Cloi D. c. D. 0. D. c. Night watchmen male 6 84 6 36 6 60 Carding department — Grinders . . »5 6 45 6 00 7 12 Strippers . . .Drawing-frame tenters female 5 00 3 00 5 00 3 09 4 80 3 00 Speeder and stretcher tenters . 5) 3 47 3 58 3 73 Throstle spinning — Spinners . . Bobbin winders 5! 5) 3 43 3 06 2 95 3 35 3 56 Dressing department- Warpers . .' Dressers . . 55 3 89 4 53 3 16 4 06 3 69 4 75 Drawers-in 3 50 3 13 3 70 "Weavers' department — 72 reed printers, cloth J5 3 62 4 34 4 20 Hours of labour per week 72 66 66 201. Prom Mr. Montgomery's book " On the Cotton Manufacture in 1840 in the United States," I quote the following account of a mill and the cost of manufac- turing : — Building and Geaeing. A cotton factory, built of brick, 142 by 42 feet within the walls, four stories in height, besides an attic, including all expenses for materials, labour, &c. . . Two water-wheels, equal to 80 horse-power, including gearing, gates, shafting, belting, &cc. Furniture, gas and steam pipes, lathes, tools, &c. Dels. 25,000 17,000 2,000 Total , 44,000 or 9,1 67/. ■UNITED STATES. 556 No. Kate. Dollars. Preparation department — Willow .. 1 100 100 Scutching machine 1 600 6C0 Carding engines, including clothing 40 210 ■8,400 Lapping machines . . 1 250 250 Drawing frames of 3 heads eacli 6 200 1,200 Double speeders of 18 spindles each . . 6 660 3,900 Extensers of 36 spindles each 7 900 6,300 Eoving and card cases . . 542 Top and cylinder grinders 210 Miscellaneous charges ' ' * ' 100 21,662 or 4,5131. Spinning department — Throstle spindles . . 4,992 4-50 22,464 Bone bobbins 10,000 0-06 600 Spinning frame bobbins 12,000 0-01 120 Skewers . . 6,000 O'OH 90 Spools or warpers' bobbins . . 6,000 0-03 180 Miscellaneous articles ■ 100 23,554 or 4,907/. Dressing and weaving department — Spooling or winding macliines 6 70 420 Warping machines . . 6 150 900 Dressing machines, including mounting . 9 400 3,600 Looms, including mounting . . 128 76 9,600 Miscellaneous articles, boilers, tubs, &c. ' * ' ' 100 • 14,620 or 3,04G;. 556 UNITED STATES. Ahstracl of Charges for Tivo Weeks. America. Britain. Dollars. Sterling. Sterling. f s. d. £ s. d. Preparation charges Spinning chnrges . . Dressing and weaving charges . General charges 250 50 224 00 734 95 161 00 52 3 46 13 153 2 33 10 9 4 10 18 25 99 21 4 17 4 10 5 4 On cost for two weeks 684 00 121 13 4 69 6 11 Net amount of charges for two weeks . . 1,954 45 407 3 6* 234 2 8 Net cluirges per piece Net charges per yard 1 14 03A 4 9 1-9 3 4 1-6 Difference in manufacturing charges per yard in favour of Britain, equal to 19 per cent. . . .. , , 0-3 202. I also reproduce, witit the analogous prices for 1872 (for which I am indebted to the Lowell machine shop), the Lowell prices of machinery in 1840 : — Picker or spreading machine (two beaters) Curding engine, 37 in. broad and 36 in. diameter. Lap winder or lapping machine Drawing frame of three heads Speeder, containing 24 spindles Spinning frame, 128 ditto (dead spindle) Warping machine, complete . . Loom, complete Belt leather, per lb. Lacing or thong leather for sewing belts, per side (iibout) Sperm oil, per gallon i'allow, per lb. Dust or hand brushes, per dozen llccd-' (sU'ol), per beer or 20 dents Ciird shirts and fillets, per square foot. . Shutilcs (apple-iree), per dozen Bobbins for spinning frames (apple-tree), per 1,000 Pitato starch for dressing, per lb. Ih-ass castings, per lb. L-on ditto, ditto .. . .5 cents to Prices in Prices in 18-10. 1872. D. c. D. c. 550 00 1,650 00 260 00 210 00 240 00 650 00 165 00 500 00 850 00 800 00 575 00 575 00 135 00 250 00 75 00 26 00 i6 42 1 00 1 15 90 1 40 07 12 4 00 4 00 04 02 1 12i 1 25 5 00 5 00 12 50 10 00 05 051 30 50 06 05* 203. A manufacturer of Philadelphia, Mr. Baird, UNITED STATES. 557 wrote a book on " Cotton Spinning," which was pub- lished in 1853, and contaiaed the following estimates of the cost of spinning : — Wages of Hands employed, and Cost of running Mule Spiadles, with preparation by Steam-Power per Month of four Weeks. Hands, 29 1 14 10 48 11 3 2 2 126 In preparatory department, picking and carding room Cariying bobbins to mules, part paid by Company . Amount of wages per week Amount of wages per month 14 mules, spinning 373,980 skeins of chain, at 17 c. per 100 skeins 10 mules, spinning 373,980 skeins of filling, at 16 c. per 100 skeins Boys are also required for these 24 mules, which run 8,064 spindles, and spin 747,960 skeins of No. 22i yarn, weighing 33,260 lbs. . . Spoolers, spooling 373,980 skeins per month, at 3J c. per 100 skeins Warpers, warping 373,980 skeins per month, at 4-|- c. per 100 skeins Manager, clerk, and watchman, per month A carpenter and a jobber, occasionally . . Engineer and fireman, per month 48 tons of coal per month, at 3 dol. 75 c. Hands in all. Total expense per month D. c. 85 75 2 00 88 75 4 355 00 645 76 598 36 125 89 168 29 116 00 24 00 56 00 180 00 2,269 00 Cents. The preparation costs . . Spinning All other items, including coal, &c. . . 1-07 per lb .. 3-74 „ .. 2-01 „ Total cost of wages and fuel ' 6-&2 There are no mechanics' wages, hauling, or other incidental expenses included in the foregoing estimate ; if these were added it would raise the average cost to 8'5 cents per lb. 204. Mr. Baird quoted prices of machinery for that date made by Mr. Jenks at Bridesburg. I am enabled, by the courtesy of the Bridesburg Company, to add to them some analogous prices for 1872. [353] 2 Q 558 TJNITBD STATES. PmCES of Machinery made by Alfred Jenks, in Brides- burg, near Philadelphia. T>. c. 1853. Whipper, or willow . . . . . . 75 00 1873. Opener .. .. .. . . 600 00 1853. Cotton picker . . . . . . . . 100 00 1873. Ditto .. .. .. .. .. 250 00 1853. Lap machine, 1 beater . . . . 1873. Ditto, ditto, 36-inch 1853. Lap machine, 2 beaters . . 1873. Ditto, ditto, 36-inch 1863. 30-inch cards, 21 Hats 1873. 36-inch cards, 18 flats, 2|--inch 1853. 30-inch cards, 2 workers, 2 strippers, and 14 flats ; an improved card 1853. 30-inch card, 3 workers, 3 strippers, 6 flats .. 1853. 30-inch card, 4 workers, 4 strippers, 5 flats . . 1853. 30-inch card, 5 worker?, 4 strippers, no flats . . 1873. Dittos 4 workers, 4 self strippers . . 1853, ■ Drawing frame, 2 heads, 4 lengths of rollers, each' with 4 coilers on each head, and stop motions ; each head . . , . 1873. Ditto, ditto, improved .. .. 1853. Drawing frame, 3 heads, 3 lengths of rollers, each, having 3 coilers on each head, stop motions, and 4 rows of rollers, improved ; per head . . . . , . 1873. Ditto, ditto 1853. Railway drawing head, single rollers, double roUei-s with plungers, and graduating wheels, patent . . . . . . 1873. Ditto, 4 rollers with evener motion. . 1853. _ Counter-twist speeder, 16 bobbins, improved. . 1873. Ditto, ditto, and 2 sets rollers 1853. Counter-twist S]ieeder, 12 bobbins . , 1 873. Ditto, ditto, and 2 sets rollers 1853. Slubbin frame, 48 spindles, 10-inch bobbins ; per spindle . . 1873. Ditto, 68 spindles, ditto . . 1853. Fly fra^ne, 100 spindles, 6-inch bobbins; per spindle 1873. Fly' frame, 120 spindles, 7-inch bobbins ; per spindle 1853. Throstles, 2-inch bobbins, live spindles 1853. Ditto, 2^-inch bobbins, ditto 1853. Ditto, 4-inch bobbins, twist-ring frame; per spindle . . . . . . . . 3 75 1853. Ditto, 4-inch bobbins, twist-ring frame, filling ; per spindle . . . . . . . . 3 75 1853. Jenks' improved ring-frame throstle, spindles make 10,000 revolutions per minute, iront roller, cast steel ; per spindle . . . . 3 75 1873. Ditto, ditto .. .. .. .. 4 50 1853; Mules, 240 to 600 spindles, half self-acting ; per spindle . . . . . . . . 2 00 1873. Self-acting mules, 500 spindles, If-inoh gauge ; per spindle . . . . . . . . 3 20 250 00 300 00 400 00 1,200 00 140 00 210 00 200 00 210 00 220 00 230 00 450 00 87 50 125 00 87 50 150 00 200 00 350 00 270 00 440 00 230 00 385 00 12 50 20 00 10 00 13 00 4 75 4 75 UNITED STATES. 559 D. c. 30 00 40 00 175 00 30 00 60 00 100 00 110 DO 300 00 55 DO 200 00 60 00 150 00 350 00 ,100 00 1.00 00 r7o DO 70 00 160 00 80 00 120 00 8 00 12 oo 80 00 120 00 1853. Reels, for caps . . 1853. Reels, for bobbins, 40 spindles 1873. Ditto, 60 spindles, Jenks' patent 1853. Yarn press, improved 1873. Ditto .. 1853, Spooling frame, 24 spools. . 1853. Ditto, 30 spools 1873. Ditto, ditto, with spindles, Dougherty's patent 1853. W^rpiiig mill and hack, 120 eyes .. 1873. Ditto, 180 eyes, 20 yards . . 1853. Sizing troughs, with iron squeezers . . 1873. Dittoj ditto, and pipes 1853. Dressing machines and section beams 1873. Ditto, and dry iron 1853. Warping mills with drop wires 187-3, Ditto ,. 1853. Beaming machine 1873. Ditto .. 1853. Frame and slide-rest for cards 1873. Ditto .. 1853. Railway for cards, mahogany, per card 1873. Ditto .. 1853. Card grinder, with iron cylinder 1873. Ditto .. 1 853. Doubler and twister, 40 spindles, 4-inch bobbins, 3-inch heads ; per spindle 1873. Ditto, 48 spindles, 5-inch bobbins, ditto 1853. Doubler and twister, 96 spindles, 4^inch bobbins, 3 -inch heads ; per spindle 1873. Ditto, ditto, 5-inch bobbins, ditto . . 1853. Looms, 35- or 40-inch, for plain goods 1873. Ditto, ditto 1853. Looms, 40-inch, with 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 treadles, and thread protectors , . 1873. Ditto, ditto 1853. Looms, 40-inch, with 2, 3, 4, and 6 treadles, and thread protectors, make 200 revolutio is per minute . . 1873. Ditto, ditto 1853. Loom, 40-inch, for satinets, sliding treadles 1853. Loom, 40-inch, for satinets, top mounting 1873. Ditto, ditto 1853. Loom, 40-inch, with 2, 4, 6, and 8 treadles, and 2, 4, and 6, shuttle drop boxes, for panta loons and vestings, Jenlis' patent 1673. Ditto, ditto, 2 shuttle drop 1873. Ditto, ditto, 3 shuttle drop 1873. Ditto, ditto, 4 shuttle drop 1853. Jacquard's fancy table-cloth loom 1873. Ditto . . 205. As to the past prices, the following Table, com- piled from the Secretary of .Treasury's E-eport of 1849, for Mr. Grosveaor's ".Does Protection Protect V can be quoted : — 2 Q 2 5 00 425 00 4 00 750 00 50 00 65 00 50 00 85 00 65 00 100 00 70 00 90 00 100 00 90 00 no 00 115 00 120 00 60 00 95 00 S60 "UNITED STATES. 00 ft? O O o o ti o O o SI o »n e3» IN m CO -4* ooOi— •t>.i>eD«c>QOcotrat^i>.*>-j>.*6Qoao»>.oi-HC.i>.ot»oaai »o"ao cot-.i>.tDOiosooeiicoeoco I-H P— 1 f-H FH ■ ' 00 o Cdtf Hk^C1 r^ riN Mttf OSI^SOHI -HhSrto r*» OCJTt.t»aiC>-OOsaslr^I>.^0030ca(N«ift . to CO 00 !>• ^ I-H I-H I-H i-( rH ^-^ rH rH OD « 00 wl.* He -*« . I-H eOCOOOCTSOOi-iO*^OOOOQOi-H . t-i I-H pH F-H rH I-H r-H I-H rH 1-H r-i f-H rH rH l-t 00 OS 00 CO (M rH Hfc< r^« H« H-J MHJ Wl,» h(« B5|^ ,*q r^« . H' .wH* C0i0OOas00i-Hr-l?CrOOC:0St>.O . . 01 t>* l>« . oc •— I rH ,-t r-4 nH 1— > i-H i-H '"''"' ■"• ■"* 1^ ^ 10 CO <-<« ^^« H« H« - .,^« • • H« . .r4S, M'^tOrHi-HOsOii-HOJtO rH r-* O O 00 • I-H ■"• rH .-H p-H pH rH .-1 rH rH rH rH ,-t r-H rH ,-1 ,-t TP to CO « 00 r*9 l>^ h|^ r^« r^« HUJ ^*-+#r+n . .,^« ■ • H« . . -4si Tt* b»Q0(N0J»-«OC0'*C0-(!}<-*lN(NO . . r- l-l Oi . . 00 ^H ^ r-t i—t i-l US H«r*J)r^el -(« -*i^n QD I-H . CO •"^ 1-^ 1-^ s oooio»oooooort«oo*nooo CO (O . ■a ,Q C4OaO»C0QDC0xnC40Dm 00 00 Oa Ca iA O r^ . . . !>. 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Hn r*s , . . • f-i i-Htn .inmTt^EMOoso • . .co • ■ ... . . • rH rHrt^rH^tNWrH(M i-H 00 CO CO »n rH o Oi ino o ococoooo»ninoooooo inoo o .cooa .o . ,ooo'.eoi>.o(N-.CO 1 . . |i>.»>.OOOi— i^CSOI>-l>.l>.CO •>— ip->00 . . . . COCOCOCOC-l-Tf . ."^CJtMCOCOcOCOeOCMCOC^JOJCMCM .cOCOW . . . . - • 1 CO 04 ::: J ::::::::::::: :a :::::::: :i ■9.| =|6-5 l-Ja^ .s--^ . .l^-ia ':^- Mfqm dipq PL, M pp o O Eh » El MMMO Eh Q Q O pq O O O OJ ? s <>, a o o II II i3 s'« "" " 'i ^! "i '/ 'i'i' il 5=i\ , M 1 ==|-i ^"z!-- ill. ii 1 If^^^l ii'M 111" OO fi OJ S Oca gog 3jK i "is :: ... I I .... I ... I I ... z I I z Z'o «l «"§ «> 1 g ^ 1 a sill u a gill 4 11^ 'III ^ii.$ 562 UNITED STATES.^ 4N.ciOoeo*niO'toi>--^oco;ots-»n -t^-^o to oo cs j-i r-i rt'to ini o 'tH i^ o CO "^ OirH cjooQoi>..ocp M-oKOto o CO -lO «o o oi »o a Oi CO H^n]^ osH'Ml^'MeiHTii p^-t -^ H'* -w «lf «!■* -"H* r+ni^p^«^« • • wjM«i-fi-jei-^*t^'r!c . QOOSi— it^*>ieOeOOS00in QDQOi>.l>.. O lO r C4 o Hoo H^-Hnm!"* "IKON'S' «M-'^l"*'*'Ho' '*'-<«'-*?» HMf^ • ■ Hffi* CS'i-H.CQ4>.COI>.COCOQOipQO'OOi.-^t*«£>ODCOt>-r-4t>1'-rt*'ini>.I>.--^'QO'OCO» . OTtO 1 (N O , i-fci h|m p^|« osH" wl" -^^ «h* '^o' H^f --H" h|si p^H" -*# ■ -M"-m|* H* r*?i H« -^1* " ' -"I'f f ooooj»>«c^co»ncot^'^i>.t-»i>.i>»iOGOooi>oi— «-c4 O : « 'O "^ bO^ bO -^ -"2 spi •^ -H CO-^ . T^' S . . d £zl£ «£■ ffi: K- ,a- s !^ »!2 ^^ S'M li-lll = O ■- a _" S _- S ca~. = !=fH Mane Lowe] Wane Lowel Newiii II II — « S S S d f^ ji 5 VS e5 ^\ o « e S § .18 o £ n 5 P.S 'c'lu ,i h-] h! 1-, ft Hj jJ? MHa!(o<)02'MWCsOSC000q CO 00 «oco« to I i-H O CO 00 O 00 CO 00 i i-H iO O •* CO ■^^ 00 W !>. 00 HN f^ft r4ffl •oho ■ • t:l-t • - l^ CO 00 It* to CO « tD t^ =r. ^ C O Oi ■^ 00 J I— I "sC o Tt* CO m OS r-H iC CO CO !>. H rH m O -^ ^ -^ . O f-( o rH ^ (N CON«OWNC3CNJClNWCleO. J>. O O.O -H - bo.S „: P3E:Qi:q O bo a m S ■.n bi s % S S 60 ■m r;^ g a T3 S?; i f^ ^ •? ^-^ = :; :^ :: " S ^ '. . « ^ S 5 ; c _-13 > a — - ■ , 5J Q : . : : :::::.::::::::::::::::::: g^g 3 ^1 o .g > o cfl I- -"JJPh OS a A ^ » -5 a ., florid 0,d^*„iS«.a' So£ 1qS& 564 UNITED STATES. The prices of some of these articles are carried down to 1872 in paragraph. 183. The exports of cotton goods were — In 1846. In 1850. In 1860. Printed or coloured goods . . Uncoloured goods . Twist yarn and thread Other products . . Dollars. 1,229,538 1,978,381 81,813 255,799 Dollars. 606,631 3,774,407 17,405 335,981 Dollars. 3,356,449 1,786,595 6,792,752 Total . . 3,676,531 4,734,424 10,943.796 These amounts can be converted into sterling at 50d. per dollar. By way of contrast to the preceding statement, I make the following quotation from the 1872 Report of the Board of Trade : — " The exports of cotton goods of home manufacture to foreign countries are stated in value for each year in the Tables of the Statistical Bureau at Washington. The quantities are given in part only, and are useless for a comparison. The values for the three years 1859-61 and 1869-71, compare as follows : — 1859. . I860.. 1861.. Dollars. 8,316,222 10,934,796 7,967,038 For three years 27,208,066 1869. 1870. 1871. Dollari?. 6,! 74,222 3,787,282 3,558,136 For three years 13,219,640 showing a falling-oflf in aggregate value more than one- half. , An examination of the prices at the two periods shows that the quantity (in yards or pounds) exported in the last three years Avas not quite one-third of the export in the three years 1859-61. " A comparison of the English export of cotton goods for the same periods shows an increase in both quantity and value respectively, of 13 and 42 per cent. This growth stands in striking contrast with om' decay. It is the more worthy of inquiry as to its causes when we remember the increasing and profitable character of our export trade in cotton goods before the war, both in itself and by its contribution to the exchanges and profits of our foreign imports. The discussion of the causes which have produced and now continue this humiliating UNITED STATES. 565 contrast with both our former condition and the present condition of other countries, belongs to the domain of the political economist, but the effects remain with our manufacturers and merchants in loss and mortification." In 1872 the amount was stUl less, being only 2,304,330 dollars. The imports of cotton manufactures were — In 1846. In 1850. In 1860. From England . . Scotland and Ireland. . France . . 1 Germany . . > Other Countries ) Dollars. 10,230,232 435,913 1,864,480 Dollars. 14,955,291 1,205,672 3,947,756 Dollars. 24,767,157 1,786,974 f 2,365,000 { 3,270,000 [ 469,893 Total . . 12,530,625 20,108,719 32,659,024 These amounts can be converted into sterling at 50d. to the doUar. By way of contrast, I will cite the total imports of cotton goods for 1869 to 1872— Value. £ 1869-70 .. ,, ,. about 29,226,000 1870-71 ., ,. .. „ 33,400,000 1871-72 .. .. .. „ 39,000,000 Of these amounts there were imported from Great Britain and Ireland — 1869-70 1870-71 1871-72 Bleached and Unbleached. Dols. 3,692,439 4,643,449 4,937,910 Printed and Coloured. Dols. 3,327,725 3,491,228 4,551,573 Hosiery, &c. Dols. 1,434,766 2.443,264 1,971,164 Jeans, Denims, Drillings, Sec. Dols. 766,942 696,651 808,665 With the unspecified manufactures the total was — Dols. 1869-70 . . 16,976,750 or about Jg-ths of the whole importation. 1870-71 . . 25,006,404 „ |ths 1871-72 . . 27,242,496 „ fths The quantities are thus returned in respect of certain classes of manufactures for the importation from Great Britaia — 566 UNITED STATES. 1869-70. 1870-71, 1871-72, Bleached and Unbleached. Sq. yds. 27,903,397 36,189,170 39,090,612 Printed and Coloiuiedk' Sq. yds. 25,291,293 27,766,926 33,230,078 Jeans, prillings, &c. Sq. yds, .5,389,772 5,075,579' 5,971,891 As regards the production of cotton goods in the United States, I have only time to q^uote here the figures of the Census Special Statistics alresidy cited in Division I. of this part of the Eeport — Cotton goods, &c. Hosiery of all kinds 1850. Dols. 65,501,68r 1,028,102' 1800. Dols. 115,681,774 7,280,606- 1870. Dols. 177,489,739 18,411,564 These figiures show that hosiery has developed in the score of years from 1 to 16^ millions of gold dollars, and cotton manufactures in geflajeral have increased from 66^ to 142 millions of gold- dollars: The consuimption of domestic cotton manufactures is about 9 lbs. per capita, as compared with 46^ yards in 1860, and with 32^ yards irt 1850. The consumption of cotton from 1827 to 1866 will indicate the increase of production during that period, but it should be ^etfiembered that all the cotton con- sumed was not spun. It was largely used' for mattressfes' and quilts, and during the late war much cotton was obtaitted from such sources. Lbs. 1827 .. .. .. .. 49,489,796 1830 1835 < 1840 : 1845 • 1850 1855 1860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 53,887,568 79,597,896 113,058,919 161,435,000 263,190,644 306,582,808 450,877,823 401,263,960 170,200,000 120,960,000 92,400,000 145,935,000 322,690,725 In making any comparison, the years of the cotton famine, 1862 to 1865, should be left out. UNITED STATES. 567i The following statement of actual production and its value at the factories computed by the cotton statistician,, Mr. Nourse, shows the progression from 1865 to 1871, and wUl, with the preceding statement, help to fill up the indications oif the -Census.: — Lbs. Dols. . £ 1865-56 .. 2.46,686,000 2O4,O3v,580 or about 29,200,000 1866-67 . . 290,930,000 185„000,850 26,000,000 1867-68 .. 344,980,000 180,737,200 27,600,000 1868-69 .. 346,860,000 189,002,000 29,000,000 1869-70 .. 343,170,000 169,972,000 28,330,000 1870-71 .. 412,980,000 165,060,750 29,875,000 4. Present Position. 207. It seems to be usually considered that the cotton mills of the United States are capable of supply- ing all the needs of the home market, and ought to be able to compete in foreign^ markets with other nations. Recently trade is generally acknowledged to have been good, and the prosperity in, at any rate, certain districts, such as Fall E-iver, • has caused the erection of many more mills of the best kind. These will increase the competition. The Middle States do not seem to consider that they have any advantages or disadvantages in competition with the East. The cost of living in the Philadelphia district, for instance, is rather lower than in New England towns, and wages, as has been seen in the course of this E-eport, have a slightly lower rate than elsewhere. As that district, moreover, is nearer the coal fields, steam-power should be rather cheaper than in the East. lu' the Middle States private ownership obtains, and this ought, as a rule, to give them an advantage- over New England, where the mills are usually corpora- tions. On these several grounds the Middle States can be held to have some advantage which cannot be entirely counterbalanced, by the- larger experience of New England. The west has yet nearly all. the- dfficulties of nascent manufacture to overcome. It has neither the necessary concentration of capitalnor the requisite supply of skilled labour. There is no manufacturing centre. As regards competition with the East and Middle States, the West,. 568 UNITED STATES. at any rate the North-west, would seem to have no advantage of moment. The southerly States of the West can get cotton at rather cheaper rates. But in nearly all parts of the West the extra 6 per cent, of interest which capital is worth, and which the Western manufacturers must usually pay or allow for, will gene- rally pay the freight of Eastern goods from Boston and New York, and Philadelphia goods from Philadelphia and New York. It is not, therefore, a matter of astonishment to find that the Eastern manufacturer knows how to take advantage of the cheaper freights of the summer to "unload" in the West. In fact, the East uses the West now and then, as, according to some recent pamphlets iu England, certain Continental manu- facturers have used the English market. During this " unloading," the Western manufacturer bides his time for selling. Although the cotton manufacture of the West is not now feared by either Philadelphia, or New York, or Boston, and is not likely, for at least a long time, to become of importance, there are, dotted over it, several successful enterprises with local markets. In some of these the disadvantage of isolation is not so great as it would appear. The operatives remain long in the mill, and it is chiefly in the case of overseers that the disadvantage is felt. In former days. Western mills had the advantage of working to order for the South. The planter contracted for the clothing of his slaves. This advantage no longer accrues to the Western manufac- turer. He must now make his goods at Eastern prices or not at all. Some mills even send their goods to New York for distribution. This happens more in the wooUen manufacture than in the cotton. 208. The South, on the contrary, is likely to obtain, more or less rapidly according to causes outside of the conditions of manufacture, a cotton manufacture of great importance in coarse yams and some of the coarser woven goods. Yams are already exported to the Middle States, and the exportation will probably increase quickly in value. Judge KeUy, in his " Addresses," says : — " The cotton-growing portion of the United States is the proper locality for cotton factories. The South can spin yam and produce unbleached fabrics at from 15 to 20 per cent, less than the same work can be done in New England, and cheaper even than it can be done by the UNITED STATES. 569 underpaid labourers of Great Britain. Will gentlemen from the South consider that what the picking-room is to the English or Northern factory the gin-room is to the factory near the cotton field, and that all charges in- curred between the two would be saved by the Southern manufacturer? Before cotton reaches either New or Old England it must be pressed, and baled, and hooped, and marked, and transported, losing interest and paying freight and commission at each stage of the transporta- tion ; and when it has arrived at the threshold of the distant factory it must be freed from its hoops, stripped of its bagging, and put through the processes of the picking-room to restore it with as little damage as pos- sible to the condition it was when it left the gin. Erom all these charges the manufacturer in the cotton district is free, and together they amount to what would be a fair profit, which, in connection with the improved quality that would result from the use of the unbroken fibre he would use, would enable him to spin yarns for a-U the Northern States and England too." And then he adds — " But this would hurt the English cotton spinner ; this would advance the interests of the United States to the detriment of England, as would the estab- lishment in the midst of the coal and iron fields of Virginia, Tennessee, Arkansas, Alabama, and Georgia, of furnaces, foundries, rolling mills and steel works. For- tunately the people of the South are deeply impressed with the importance of the early introduction of these branches of manufactures; and among the sixty -five furnaces erected during the last year, four are in Virginia, six in Missouri, three in Kentucky, one in Georgia, two in Alabama, and one ia Tennessee. It is not, therefore, probable that very general heed will be given by people of the South to the advice offered by Mr. Wells, or that they wiU abandon the hope of export- ing their cotton in yarn and fabrics, the manufacture of which will give employment to, and improve the condi- tion of, their now unemployed men, women, and children, or wiU forego the privilege of an adequate supply of good and cheap iron, manufactured in their midst, in order to turn their attention to making ' wooden- ware, soap, starch, clothing, and similar articles.' They will not, I apprehend, be willing to forego their greatest source of profit in order to obHge him by permitting England still 570 UNITED STATES. to retain her supremacy as the cotton spinner and prin- cipal iron manufacturer of the world." The advantages of manufacturing in the South have already been enumerated. The disadvantages to be re- moved are the usual ones attendant on foimding a manu- facturing industry, and also the greater difSerdty with labour in the South. 209. As regards competition with England, the following views are held by some of the most intelligent men of this country. The disadvantages in such a com- petition of the American manufacture are, — -the higher rate of interest in the United States, the impossibility of working to order, and the frequent necessity of keeping goods on hand for three months ; the greater variety of manufactures in England from larger experience in spinning the higher numbers ; the reputation and posi- tion of England in the market of the world ; the fact that the English goods, other things being equal, com- mand higher prices ; the length of time requisite to establish manufacturing centres ; and in England a larger share from longer experience of the intangible something which just makes the difference between suc- cessful and. unsuccessful manufacturing, all other condi- tions being exactly the same. The reputation acts also in this way : England makes a new article differing only slightly from the previous article of its class, and the novelty sells before it could be produced in the United States. As to commanding higher prices, one of the reasons seems to be that the customer knows too well the price of the American article, and can only guess at that of the foreign article, and therefore insists upon buying the former at a given profit, -say 2^ per cent, only. The home manufacturer is consequently oflien more trammelled by prices than is the competing im^- porter. The intangible something may not be as fre- quent in the United States as in England, but the results of manufacturing show it to exist here in a large degree. The following extract from Judge Kelly's "Ad- dresses " will give, on the whole, a fair idea of how in the United States the contrast with England is often portrayed: — " The conditions of the two nations are not the same, but are in striking contrast. England is a small island, but the United States embraces almost the entire avail- UNITED STATJES. 571 able territory of a coritinent. Tlie former is burdened by an excessive population, and vexed by the question as to bow she shall dispose of the excess; but our great need is industrious people, and witb us tbe question is — How can we increase immigration ? She has to im- port food for balf ber people, and ber foreign trade is to ber wbat seed-time and barvest are to tbe countries from wbicb sbe procures tbe breadstuffs sbe requires but cannot produce,; but were tbey on our soil we could feed ten times tbe number of ber wbole people ; and even wlule I write, tbe merchants of Minnesota, Iowa, and ■otber Nortb- western Stajies are suffering financial embar- rassment because tbe farmers tbey supply cannot find a market for tbeir crops. Sbe is dependent on foreign countries for most of tbe raw materials sbe consumes, but we bave within our limi ts exbaustless stores of every variety, not dependent upon tropical heat for their pro- duction. Her resources are ascertained and developed, but ours await development, and ia regions, any one of which is larger than all western Europe, including the British Island-s, await defl.mte ascertainment. Her population is combpacted within narrow limits, but her railroads are completed and paid .for ; but our people are settled sparsely over half a continent, and most of our system of roads, for which the capital is yet to be pro- duced, is to be constructed. The charges for transporta- tion within her circumscribed and populous limits are very light, but over our extended and thinly-settled country they are necessarily heavy. Her factories were erected and supplied witb machinery while she main- tained the most rigid system of protection the world has ever seen; but ours are to be built as experiments in the face of threatened free trade, which would involve a more unequal competition than any against which she defended hers by protective, duties and absolute prohibi- tions. Her average rate of interest is 3 per cent, per annum, but ours is never less than 6 per cent, per annum, and in large sections of the country is often 3 per cent, per month. The great body of her labourers, even since ■the recent extension of the suffrage, are sulajects with- out civic duties ; but ours are citizens, and liable to such duties. She pays the daily wages of her workmen with shiUingrS ; but we pay ours witb dollars worth four shillings each, and give many classes of them more 572 UNITED STATES. dollars than slie does sMllings. It is therefore impos- sible that the same economic policy can be applied with equal advantage to countries whose condition presents so many and such important contrasts." Mr. Erastus Bigelow, a high authority on manufac- turing and economic questions from the stand-point of national defence, has thus stated the disparity between the United States and Europe : — " The conditions of wages, taxation, and capital in the manufacturing nations of the European contiaent (Russia excepted) are so nearly alike that high duties, as between themselves, would be inoperative. Under such duties their international trade would cease. In Erance, Belgium, Austria and Prussia the cost of manufacturing the leading articles is so nearly uniform that a duty of 10 per cent, protects them against each other as effec- tually as our higher rates defend us against them. The same, in effect, may be said of the Anglo-Erench treaty, so loudly vaunted as a great step in the progress of liberal ideas. It can be proved that Erench producers under that arrangement receive more protection against British industry than is afforded by our tariff to Ameri- can manufacturers in their sharp competition with Erance and England. " So long as our local taxation shall depend on the will and action of the several States, so long as the rates of wages and of interest in our country are kept up by the abundance of land and the demand for labour, neither skill nor assiduity on the part of our producers can re- move the causes of that disparity which places them at so great disadvantage. The remedy, the only remedy, is in the hands of our national Government. With that power it rests to say whether, in this great question of public and economic policy, their own people or foreigners shall be first considered. Let it be remembered, how- ever, that equality is all we ask." An eminent and intelligent merchant and manufac- turer, Mr. Mudge, of Boston, who drew up .the Beport on " "Wools and Woollens " in the Paris Exhibition of 1867, thus states the disadvantages of the American manufacturer : — " American manufacturers admit that it is not so much the lower rate of wages in England against which we have to contend, as the low rates of interest, which UNITED STATES. 573 permit the employment of vast capital and tlie most advantageous use of machinery, together with the abun- dance of labour, which may always be recruited from the vast reserve corps of paupers eager to be elevated to the rank of workmen. A marked improvement in the material condition of the workmen, especially in York- shire, has been effected of late years by the increase and the lessening of the cost of subsistence. In the West Hiding, the labour which, in the period from 1845 to 1847, produced 10.s. per week, will earn at present 16s. per week. The food for a family which then cost 95. 9d. is now obtained for 6s. In this industry at the present day, the Yorkshire workmen are able to consume animal food at least twice a day, to be respectably clothed, to have some luxuries, and accumulate savings. They are the envy of the workmen of the Continent. Without stopping to inquire whether this change has been brought about by Chartist agitation, the trade unions, the self- interest of employers, or the moral enlightenment of the English nation, we recognize the fact that the material condition of the English workman is vastly superior to that of his brother workmen in Erance, Belgium, Prussia, and Austria. On the other hand, it is now freely ad- mitted in England that the general and technical educa- tion of the English operative is far inferior to that of the workmen of the nations above named." 210. The tariff is intended to counteract the disad- vantages of the American manufacturers in this compe- tition. Its advocates may admit many of the evil resiilts which are attributed to it by its opponents. But they prefer, as they put it, the greater future good at the cost of a smaller present evil than to cease in their efforts to build up a diversified industry. This is national self- denial of a high order. The present position of the cotton manufacture does not seem to be such as to enable the country to export as in former years. The relative price of home goods, as compared with the foreign goods that compete in other markets, has risen somewhat too high. The advantage of having the raw material close at hand is not yet suffi- cient to overcome the disadvantage of production. But the economists of free exchange hold that — " There is no reason in the nature of things why we should not now be exporting to a much larger extent [353] 2 E 574 UNITED STATES. ttan we are, and exporting also all sorts of maniifactured articles, as well as grain and cotton. Our natural resources for manufacturing are unequalled, our people are ingenious, our labourers, as a class, the soberest and most efficient in the world ; the cost of labour is low, wMle the rate of wages is higb, and the capital of the country is abundant ; but counterbalancing these advan- tages, absurdly restrictire tariff laws hinder manufacture ing at a hundred points, and a miserable money throws us out of commercial adjustment with the rest of the world, so that we practically export little but raw material and provisions. As a whole country we lose the profits of manufacturing under a wretched pretence of encouraging them. England, for example, last year imported 53,617,000/. worth of cotton, and exported 80,128,000/. worth of cotton manufactures. She added 50 per centum to the value of the raw material by the manufacture of it. She earned two freights in connec- tion with it, and all the profits of the manufacture. "Why cannot we learn something from the pros- perity and the methods of our commercial rival, or rather of our commercial master ? We are under the feet of England commercially, simply because through folly she has become wise, and we continue to cling to her cast- off folly. We used to export many manufactured articles — even cottons to India itself — ^but we can no longer do so to any considerable extent, on accoxmt of a bad tariff and a worse money. Give us free coal, free wood, free lumber, free iron and steel, free dyestuffs for colouring, free salt for scouring, and a good dollar, and see then if the wheels do not turn !" 5. Future Position. 211. The possibilities of reductions in various direc- tions in the cost of production have been glanced at under the several headings to which they belong. It may be of interest to assemble them at this conclusion of the inquiry into the cotton manufacture of the United States. A reduction in the cost of living would, without lessening the present advantages of the American labourer, render possible a corresponding reduction in the cost of labour. This reduction would directly and indirectly UNITED STATES. 575 lessen the cost of construction, plant, and power, and diminish, the prices of cotton and mill supplies and the general expenses of manufacturing. A reduction iu the cost of iron and steel would materially help, and the development of the iron of the United States is likely to be so great that the day may not be far distant when wheat may be turned into iron and the United States will export pigs of iron instead of pigs of pork. Further reductions in the cost of production may be effected by improved machinery of all kinds both in the miU and out of the mill , and by improved cultivation of cotton. A further reduction will be possible, as a greater variety of products will warrant a less profit per pound to pro- vide for bad times. A further reduction is possible from a reduction of local and other taxation. A yet further reduction may from time to time be obtained by improved and more economical modes of manufacture. But the important reductions would be those which followed from a reduction of the cost of labour and the employment of less expensive materials in manufacture. The free exchange economists maintain that those important reductions could be obtained by reforming the tariff. The national defence economists maintain that the required reduction in cost of productions will follow in good time, from home competition in welj.- established industries, and that the nation can afford to wait for that good time. Or an equivalent increase abroad in cost of production from rise in wages and materials will occur. Should the views of the advocates of a limited free exchange prevail, and the tariff be readjusted on a fiscal and not a defensive basis, it is held that a reduction of at least 20 to 25 per cent, may be expected in the cost of manufacturing. If this were to be the case, the cost of manufacturing, as stated in Subdivision k of Division II, would become, at 20 per cent. — Yams . . . , White work in the North Print cloth Sheetings „ in South If, in addition, cotton feU to 13 cents, inclusive of waste, or 6d. per pound, from improved cultivation, then the total cost of production in the United States would become — 2 R 2 s. d. .. 3i .. s ..0 .. 5f .. 44 576 "UNITED STATES. s. d. Yarns .. .. .. ..0 9 White work in the United States . . Print cloth Sheetings „ in South 1 01 1 4 iif 10 It will be recollected that the advantage of the United States from proximity to the cotton States was pointed out to he greatest when cotton was cheapest. "Under the supposition of a price of 13 cents, or 6d. per pound, that advantage would be increased from 7^ to 12 per cent. It should also be borne in mind that any absolute reduc- tion in cost of production which may occur simul- taneously in two countries is proportionably more in favour of the country with the larger difference between cost of raw material and value of manufactured product, that is, with the greater cost of production. So far, then, as the cost of production in the United States is greater than in England, would such a simultaneous absolute reduction be more in favour of the United States than of England. It may, therefore, be aflrmed that every reduction in the price of cotton will increase the advantage, and every simultaneous absolute reduction in the cost of production will decrease the disadvantage of the cotton manttfacture of the United States in competition with England. Eor it is obvious that every saving must be relatively more on a maximum than on a miaimum. The accumulation of such economies might, therefore, without any material alteration in the prices of the articles which enter into the cost of manufacture, reduce the difference between England and America to merely the cost of freight, that is, to a question of cheap transport. 212. It has been said here that the United States has all the possibilities of manufacturing which England possesses, with this advantage — that it has plenty of food at home, and this disadvantage — that inland freight may remain heavy, but that cheaper centres than those on the coast may eventually spring up and wholly or partly counteract this disadvantage. The question of the future for England is — When will the United States be likely to compete in neutral markets ? The question of the present is merely partial exclusion from the markets of the United States. I UNITED iSTATES. 577 hope the data and remarks in this Eeport will assist my readers in forming an opinion as to the future. I am disposed to think that, taking into consideration the facts collected in this Report, and their bearings upon the future of American production, it is not at all improbable that, with a little reduction in cost of production, and inasmuch as American standards are better than ours, the American sheetings, for instance, could compete in Manchester, at the very doors of our manufacturers, with English sheetings. Moreover, it is held by several Americans that vrithiu a short time the South ought to be able to export yarns, even to England. 213. The views of the free exchange economists of the United States are so well known in England that I need not refer to them. But the position of the defenders of the national iudustry is not so well known, and I may, therefore, be pardoned for closing this imperfect inquiry into the present and future position of the cotton manu- facture in the United States by citing some opinions of intelligent advocates of a defensive economic policy — and the more excused, as these views at present control the economic policy of the country. " There is, undoubtedly, something plausible in the general idea — sometliing attractive in the mere name of free trade. It assumes the tone of cosmopolitan good- will, and professes to aim at perpetual harmony among the nations. Regarded abstractly, its theories are charming, and promise us a consummation devoutly to be wished. But the question is — Can we confide iu this promise ? There is a class of amiable enthusiasts who believe in the possibility, as we all believe in the desir- ableness, of universal peace. Would the nation but listen to them, she would forthwith raze every fortifica- tion, freight her war ships with corn and cotton, and melt her great guns into rails and ploughs. Why does she not listen ? Why does she — why must she — still fortify her harbours, replenish her arsenals, and keep up her navy ? Because the arguments and the exhortations of the Peace Society are founded on human nature, not as it is, but as it should be. Because they strongly under- rate the ever-present, though sometimes dormant, power of selfishness and passion. When ' the wolf shall dwell peaceably with the lamb,' when the nations shall all see 578 tJNITED STATES. eye to eye, the pleasing dream of the non-resistant inay become a blessed reality. " Of kindred origin and character, as it seems to me, is the iUusive notion of free trade ; very fair in theory, but wholly unsatisfactory in practice. Ignoring, as it were, the great law of self-interest, and the lesson of all history, it goes upon the absurd assumption that hence- forth the different communities of mankind will be governed, in their intercourse of trade and business, by the golden rule. It is a system which will probably work well in the millennium, but it is decidedly prema- ture in an age like ours. Unless these views are falla- cious, it is just as much the duty of a nation to protect its own industry against the injurious effects of foreign competition as it is to provide the means of defending its soil and its homes against the aggressions of open war. "Viewed abstractly and upon general grounds, all commercial restrictions should be condemned. But we are not at liberty to deal with questions of this nature. Considerations of expediency and necessity will come in to modify and control the deductions of logic and the plausibilities of theory. The exigencies of revenue are so absolute, and the requirements of productioi^iSO great and SO manifest, that no nation can disregard them." (Bigelowon the "Tariff.") " It is clearly unwise to foster by legislative aid any branch of industry or business for the prosecution of which our natural advantages are decidedly inferior. Some strong and peculiar necessity can alone justify such a course. But in regard to all those pursuits for which we have the requisite endowments, and need only the acquired advantages of capital, skill and position, in order to compete successfully with other nations, I hold it to be not only proper, but necessary, that so much of the governmental aid should be afforded as will raise our industry to a footing of equality." (Bigelow on the "Tariff.") " The proposition is, or may be, to raise the price of a manufactured article for a time, in the expectation that advances in skill and machinery, and a more secure place in the market, where conspiracies abroad cannot break in to crush out the capital invested, will by-and-by, or perhaps in a very short timej afford us the same articles UNITED STATES. 579 at prices greatly reduced. Even Adam Smith saw this ; conceding that ' a particular manufacture may sometimes be acquired sooner than it could have been otherwise, and after a certain time may be made at home as cheap or cheaper than in the foreign country.' ('Wealth of Nations,' vol. i, p. 448.) And what have we ourselves discovered in hundreds of instances but exactly this, that the losses or taxation prices we expected did not come, but the articles protected have been cheapened, some of them, too, from the very first. Who could have imagined that our rough-handed, half-trained mechanics would be able to hold successful competition with the skilled work- men of Europe in the manufacture of an article as deli- cate as the watch ? And yet we are getting our watches now at scarcely more than half the former price, and are even selling watches at a profit in the open market of the world. We consented to make a loss, but the gain came along too soon to let us distinctly see it." (Bush- nell, " Eree Trade and Protection.") I have not quoted from the great works of Henry 0. Carey, from which so many writers of the same school of economists have drawn so many an inspiration, because i have taken it for granted that, since the Carey defini- tion of " labour value " has been adopted in the form of the " service value " of Bastiat, and since his views as to the original cultivation of land have prevailed, his works and the opiriions therein expressed are sufiiciently known on the other side of the Atlantic, as manifesting the economic policy which is at present guiding the United States in her industrial development and inter- national commerce. J. P. HAREIS-GASTEELL. 2136. (May 15.) I am indebted to the courtesy of a well-known writer on economic subjects and manufac- turer of cotton fabrics for the following interesting state- ment respecting some points of great importance in con- nection with the cotton manufacture of the United States, and the possibilities of its future development under a system of free exchange : — " The advantages of the English cotton spinner over the American are as follows : — " 1st. In the cost of mill and of machinery. "2nd. In a lower rate of interest on capital. 580 UNITED STATES. " 3rd. In moderately lower rates of wages paid to mill operatives. " 4th.. In considerably lower rates of wages paid to overlookers, engineers, and superintendents. " 5tli. In more economic methods of business, in making sales, storing and distributing goods and the like. " The advantages of the American over the English cotton spinner are — " 1st. Being near the cotton fields. " 2nd. An ample food supply. " 3rd. So far as the home market is concerned, greater purchasing and consuming power among the masses per capita. "4th. So far as foreign markets are concerned, a greater power of purchase, because there is in the United States a greater purchasing and consuming power among the masses per capita, owing to the fact that the United States have substantially tbe control of the supply of certain products that the world must have, such as cotton and petroleum ; to a less extent, of wheat and pork ; and, soon, of pig iron; and have, therefore, greater oppor- tunity to sell. " Let us take the advantages of the Englishman first, and consider them in their order, and see what would be the probable effect of free trade. " 1st. Cost of Plant. — The American tariff has so altered the condition of exchange as to have kept down the prices of iron and steel and other metals in England, so far as it has checked the demand. At the same time it has maintained prices in the United States above those of England. Hence, whatever the absolute prices may have been at a given time, the relative prices have been different substantially by the amount of the duty. " The abatement of the American duty would abate this relative difference, either by causing an advance in th.e cost of plant in England, or a decline in America. " 2nd. Rate of Interest. — .The rapid accumulation of capital in the United States and the establishment of closer relations which would ensue from free trade, will soon bring this element nearer to an equality. In fact, there has never been the alleged difference, it having been easy for the American manufacturer in good credit to make long loans at 6 to 7 per cent, for many years UNITED STATES, 581 past, while the English rate on similar loans has been 4 to 5 per cent. " 3rd. I doubt there being at present 20 per cent, difference in the wages of carders, spinners, wearers, and cloth finishers. Our ability to pay higher wages will be demonstrated beyond. "4th. There is, in the United States, a scarcity of competent trained men to act as overlookers, engineers, and the like, but on the whole, including these hands, I doubt if our wages are 25 per cent, more • than in England. " 5th. Since the war, or rather, since the crisis of 1857, great changes have been made ia our system, and the difference in method of business is fast disappearing, " We now come to the advantages of the American. " 1st. Our nearness to the cotton field must give us, on the whole, an average advantage of two cents per lb. " 2nd. Our ample food supply must enable us to offer better conditions of life at the same cost of living. " 3rd. Subsistence and comfort being the rule in the United States, and the general condition of those who work and who constitute the great mass of consumers being materially good, there is a lavish use of cotton cloth. Every man must have his ' biled (boiled) shirt,' that is, his white shirt, and every woman spends freely on dress. " 4ith. The free buyer will surely be a free seller ; this would be our position under free trade. The very inti- mate trade relations which our control of cotton, petro- leum, wheat and meat gives us, and which our control of the export of pig iron will presently give us, must lead to very intimate relations with foreign countries, now supplied chiefly by England, whenever we cease to check exports by impeding imports. "Now, it may be said that in a general way the average demand on the cotton manufacturer in the United States is for goods made from 14 to 33 yarn, weighing from 2r^ to 5 yards to the lb., 36 inches wide. These goods must be true goods, not stuffed with starch, and our mills, as a rule, do not turn out over 85 lbs. of unbleached cloth to 100 lbs. of cotton. " If we take as an average fabric a 36-inch sheeting, weighing 3f yards to the lb., the cost of cloth at the 582 UNITED STATES. present time would be about 36 cents* per lb., of wMcb the actual labour of manufacturing would not be over 9 cents.* Hence, if the English spinner has an advantage of 33 per cent, even in labour, or even if our wages are 50 per cent, the highest, he naust still pay either 6t or 6f cents for labour. If our wages are 50 per cent, higher, that difference is only 3 cents t per lb., and that is about our advantage over England in the cost of cotton and food. Hence the possibility of higher wages here coupled with even cost of goods. "But suppose the English spinner has cotton and food on even terms, and labour 3 cents per lb. less, his cost of cloth will be 33 cents per lb. against our cost of 36 cents ; but the absolute necessary charges to get the English goods to New York would nearly or quite absorb this difference. " If we had free trade we should save very largely on the food, fuel, shelter, and clothing of our operatives, and on all the leather, lumber, iron, steel, copper, tin, and dye-stuffs entering into our cost. That is to say, we should have all these things on the same relative basis as our English competitor, except where our own resources gave us a nattu^al advantage. I thiak that out of every 6 or 7 dollars paid to women weavers for a week's wages, about 3 dollars are spent for dress. One half of the dress materials are foreign, and the tariff tax on this half averages 50 per cent. Under free trade our female operative could dress as well at 75 cents a week less cost. " Einally, if we can apply the advantage we have in cotton and food to the payment of higher wages, and at the same time furnish common schools and a better opening to the children of the operative than can be found in Europe, we shall bring over the best and most intelligent ; yet because of an alleged disadvantage in labour we have enhanced the cost of everythiag that enters into the fabrication, of brown bleached, and printed cottons by tariff taxes averaging 50 per cent., so far as this cost consists of articles of foreign production. " We tax the lumber, butter, flour, eggs, beef, barley, and leather of Canada. * 36 cents = 1*. 4^d., and 9 cents = 4^. t 6 cents = 2^d., and 3 cents 1^, UNITED STATES. 583 " We tax the sugar, spices, salt, and fruits wliicli our operatives eat. " We tax iron, steel, copper, lead, soda-ash, dye-stuffs, chemicals, and acids. " In short, we throw away our ad^'^antage in cotton and food upon the miserable pretence that free and intelligent labourers cannot com]3ete with those that are alleged to be 'pauper labourers.' "My own conclusion is, that the surest protection to the American manufacturer of cotton, wool, or iron would consist in absolute free trade, and that only when we adopt a policy as near to that as revenue needs will permit, shall we be successful competitors with Great Britain in all the markets of the world, including our own. The precediug statement alludes to some points which are unmentioned in my E-eport, as they did not seem to come withia the scope of my own investigation, and to others which are only incidentally noticed. The opinion of my correspondent upon all the points is of great value, for he has a wide acquaiatance with this subject in all its aspects. It will be noticed that his general statement of the cost of labour and of production of a staple cotton cloth confirms the approximate accuracy of the conclusions (vide paragraphs 161 and preceding, and 193 and pre- ceding) at which I had been able to arrive in the course of my investigation based on other data. I am also enabled to take advantage of this oppor- tunity to state that I have been recently informed, on good authority, that the average cost of manufacturing at the present time, taking the New England States through, for labour, supplies, repairs, insurance, taxes, and general expenses, would be — Per lb. c. d. For goods of No, 14 yarn, sucli as standard sheeting, about , . „ . . . 7J or 3-|^ For goods of No. 22 yarn, such as medium sheeting, about . . . . . . 12 5^ For goods of No. 33 yarn, such as standard print cloth and fine bleached sheeting, about . . . . . . . . 18 8iV This does not include wear and tear. The best mills will do a cent better and the old mills a cent worse. In 584 •UNITED STATES. a general way the supplies, findings, insurance, taxes, and the like are about one-fourth to one-third of this cost of manufacturing. This cost is about 25 per cent, more than in 1860, and might, therefore, under favour- able circumstances, be again reduced to the cost of 1860, or by some 20 per cent. It will be observed that these figures agree with some closeness with those I have already recorded in para- graphs 161 and 193 and the half-dozen paragraphs which respectively precede them. PART III. The Woollen and Worsted Manufactures. 214. It is proposed to treat of these industries in general and in. detail, according to the plan adopted in the preceding part for the cotton manufacture. 1. TnE WoOIiLBN AND WOKSTED MaNTJEACTUEES ACCORDING TO THE CENSUS OE 1871. Woollen manufactures. Census statistics. a. The Woollen Manufactures. It should be borne in mind, in looking at the data collected by the Census, that, although they are on many points pronounced by experts to be very correct, they can only be considered to be valuable indications of the truth ; their value is, however, great, for such indications could only be obtained from statistics as carefully revised as those of the Census are. 215. The following is the Table as issued by the Census Office, for which I am indebted to the courtesy of the Acting Superintendent of Census : — UNITED STATES. 585 a«0O ■*(« ceo r : CQ r-H Tfi « .OS r-i OOeo CO tjit~ loooeocMcooooacpiAi ep00a0«DrHOOTflTii00"a5D-?T'L"-.ii3 iot; ^ ^ 00 O ■«• « if» OWML— ^eDCOCOC-*0 *rHCC"0« r-< eOrH^r-H i-4r-(Gl a O s sill rs eO CO rH O 00 O Oi . ocM^-*eiooooa»oM> ^ -*0»(yt Ca r-l CO 1^00 ©to i£i OS I— ( i-H t— «0 01 KS -^c: t-OeOOrHCOOO r-.ncaeCrHCSM o» UO 10 CFt oa r-" «= i-H CT 5 t-tir=H * r— I O IC O C* i< r-( O eo CI us Q CO CI to CI O -* .— t OS rH O Ol ■s g ■a S 00 torn So cob- *■lo^oOl— leico , "* CO TfJ^Ti<_CN I>;QO 0_r-l ■*„■* >-i-* "-"iXO (>;. i-l ^^tO CO OS OT S ^ CO OT ^O O rH 3 I "''^S"??'"''^ m^'efr-Tcrrr-rrHrHO :^"m Co"oO 0-*"i-H ©"r-TrH QO CO cTr-T -I O t-CDOa t^COrHr-ir-tW O O eo — I r-( rH KB irs CO -r o coi— I cico a COOOOCi«3ClCOOa-fOK. , „, _^ — '" "^ " - O -Ji CO t-- IS IQ O CO 00 CO eO QC « "■ SX) -^ -^COCSCOOCJi- : ■* m CI to CI cid->soici-ift-cKn« cDcoe* ^00 Cl t> 00 C-l G siOcoo ojeoir-t-eso -^^w _ oocb t— c* ou -^ cs ^ OS -iji -o i>. 0^0 'en cf •xo"ci' iCi S'-'S Si2 ^--^ c*'-^ isi to !-«■#-* r-(--'OSCl t>— (CDC-'*«0 Tpr- ■— lWt-r-1 SO ClCTCOi—l r O I>-io r-(p t^i-ii-ICl ■* S § K-fS*^ M ^ ^S JS :^ S !Zl XSrS '-' °* "^"^ o!" t-"="« 09 o >o m 00 ># ^ CI Gi 1JI rg'-ss 7! t! 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S O M « S " - a SI, ^ l-HCl eO'*XOOt-C0090r- UNITEB STATES. 587 ■ffl -^ C; O .COO CTOir ; M CO ca la t— CO CO ct o •COl« l-H 1 s OOip o xo SS i OOOfflt H so Gi t^ ^ . •qottTo'co . lyTcra '^"io'sd'co . cTrn'os'wa' " Ococsr—i 'j* -rjOi— I 'Clr-iCOi— I TT <^ I 1 ^wJ \^J *— ^ ^H-J ^'—J t__J OOmOClGiO'30 o_u3 t-;o liS to o oaOi~'iC5t~coir-'Ot~ascoOGOcio;iio-*c«3 3iOio a CS<» -I<_^ ■*__ CD CO__CO^W(>t_ rH CO CO I>- -as CJOpH O 00 O O rfJ^CO t^*0 i-H O O iO 3: C^ r— • " ■ -t< -rfi o^ it3'rH'c3"«d'in"o'"co'crCTs U3 o'"Qo"o'o"r— Tim'c-^ - nc~ooaiU3 -rtHior-1-rS -fi -* useot^i-L^Tfft^oi ■ Oc*ciTf< t-eosa CI =0 -:f< i.~ i_j i.'j QO »-'5 cs CI c^ ca Co"-*cf r-H CO o'er o'co" OSS' 1—1 - ' — ''^ ''^ ' '^ CO O ^ C^ * f J '-EJ L"^ JJ u COlXSl— imClr-HCSt^l- co -I CO of CO -Tcq Clf CO Hi" £7° ^c1 r-n"oi C-^ . -^'oira .C^cSr-^r-i . 00 t-^l-C :SCiMSrH&'l t^ «OCOrH ;COClt^-* ; cS rH C^ • CO CB O ■ Kc7 O^C» «3 r- "OSO rH • (« as ^QOCO _C»OOS Jr-lt-O :cio it-o -tot oil— 1 00-* ocieo «OOU3 COTflSOC? coocneo :!0 -^ waoi ■*n o «) ct r-H d 00 CN .— I I— 1 d t— ct t* d t^ ir~ so wasooo'J'ttJoc^o t:- CO to o c» t- o t-oQ C» O i-H Cl CO ^H ^# -^ «o -MOO CO cTos"!— TiyTc-C 2S !5 E2 S ^ £2 S '^d ^ S ?5 S S SS &3 e *? |=J ^ « 00 c5 »ra o 00 o rfi U3 CO 53 COCOr-iCQCOt^Omi— 'Oi-HCSOO-^-^OfflOrHi— iCtOr-iQDt— -*de3Ma i-H rH rH -^«0 CO_^ OS_rHOCO^OOiJ3^ 00 -^i-H^DO CO r-i Tj« -rflODCi'-' rH "S t* C? rH O C* • ^ Mitr K.'J wj t'J *1J 1-^ *r^t- -I CO CO CO in f-H CO c i-H ci" -^"c I E-l 1-S = ilf|||gi|||&i '^igi:ijii-s-«.= ^.slil^i! «3 50 t-o6oaor-H oico-'flio edi>odc5o"r-H"cico'-^>fl cdt^cooioi-icico' ■si |i.3 rH0^E0-*W50t-000ao 588 UNITED STATES. 1^ ogoei otOco • i-Tt-^to' O U3 COOACOCO 0*0 CO O OOO Mm t»00 so ^ «D WS t^O T aMcpo*-* joo QO to i-H ^ CO ^i— ' ^ rH o*,*^ HO 1-1 r-4 O O SO (O^CO a3c9 CO oo OrH taoo — ■«t"QO cooci vn^oor- io» csoioious I— (so^D iraoocjc O lO C4 «5_»0 t-^tO lO 09 C^C;[_t>;lO i-H m t~ 'd* O 00 r-* "eCiJ*? ."i^"ioCC CO* .W-iirrHr-rcr .eft^oT . ofcfrH ~ "t- Q : OO i-< •CQ'^'^ • I— I -^ I— I f-f maQc^e:!0(MOOS i^iH 00 cj^cr* eo'eo' .ouso'co' 003tr« F^f^ :S"fe's .QDCOQO -rfirH«3 • 00 r-i co" M"r^- in o -*os t-O coca coo «OC0 . rH O" . O'oo" U3C4C^CO CtOCDiOUSO t--C4i— 't^O CM ^"S (Mr— I OtP OrH CM,— (C^rH&O* OS I— ('S'COWrH t*l>0»0 to rHrHC0C^_^OrH_^«3O t>;Oi^M t--.lO inCO eo O t>Ci3 ^ «D i« 05C» OU>00 (H CO CO O CO . TO O coos CO CO rH"? CO t*U9 0C^-*rHrH rHCC«OeDCTw3Q0C4OC00aC0rHO00 Olt^CDOa CO 03C-#«3 CQ 00 r-<^0S^»O^ (SfrH"eO _ rH OS CO__c5^rH t-Oa CO O^O* 00 t-^Cl C4 OS C« ; OtJ'c-^orso'r-H oo CS^tpmeQta-r^mt-^ rHooo-^rHca CI o e» eNtDOs uaosQOt-OincstMK t^t— C^OOCrHiOTH-r. _._ Wdt-rH CO QOCM GO rHrHr rHOSuaoOGSClOOiO rHt> l::-us-*oai>0"#cooiC'ios _ rH O O^Ca ^^rH rH ra Til C4 rH •ineOO'sOCs'rH o'rHClCo' iinoooooooes-^ciio »'-*C >owsooirac4t^eQOs 00 00 lo o ^co CO 03 05,^0 H 00 »0 01 Oa""; QO •*'rHrHC-^rHl>OCr Tti CM US CO OOr-t ^ ■* rH OSCO 65 CM U3 CN^ CO c\ ^° E-i UNITED STATES. B89 1 a g 1 S 1 i i-i ! J. 1g Tji" CTt^o o ooo 05^« o o> eso o mso o ini^in O (NOOO »nOO* O rH OOO O ^-"5 O «oa>t- us t-cooo eoinoD oo oi uso ?< lOO t^« ^OTO" (DO f-H 500 320,686 410,800 474.318 860,696 66,800 767,237 22,600 530,961 23!50O 311,600 36,000 1,16'9!499 110,075 19,000 739;676 198,688 654,518 33,830 649,213 6,400 39.338 760.900 156.290 87,370 127 936 269,086 224,745 874,187 ^1 -- 1 H.nnn, ,.,,.,, 1 1 t^ w ^^ Jh 1 ni 7,435 36,290 6,800 47,712 "S,980 "■ 200 162,891 31,600 16,000 32,971 19,160 10,718,994 1,991,258 23,167 7,600 17,000 82,176 64,761 600 t w ii 1 : : :| i-s U3 ^1 OQ o.o__ 177,165 813.573 2.193.086 106.969 28.380 1.344,578 "4,610 "i,400 137.930 136.653 2.000 16.009 163,452 993,926 14,171.662 2.187,166 13,000 145,692 "i.OOO "3,000 89,306 7.478 s* Si o ill- .3 8 1 a & 1^- ...M......|..M.n.M. 4 1 ■is" 1,319,642 1,672,774 509,044 19,000 63,332 2,019,729 31,337 33,321,684 253,038 74,190 171,300 13,141,666 634,746 3,000 2,176,078 1,690 ■ 1,464833 334,300 6,809,665 1,626,000 "3,919 68,650 2,018,633 19,336 135,445 343,627 i 1 -•• -.n,„nn,M,n|„H 1 11 g :::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :^ ::::::: : II 313 ll *"* °**^ : : :S : o OOO oo o o S, .Sgg, . . . .§,§. .S, . . .3 :::::::<« :-«x| : : : ig-i :| :::*:::::::: : E i 3 1 n -3 to -^ S « - • ::„ :S : = ::::::: -1 ■: : •■|^g :| • \.^-=.S : : : • :.| = III gi-|i rii g ii-iii-ii 11 ll gi^fi iiii 1 g^ I'll i rHe.M*««=.r-OC,=.Or3g=g3;5^t;0030gg«gg»tjg»Ogg™*j=g^» [353J 2 s 590 UNITED STATES. fi^" e40'4< t-U3COO CO , COr^iO&i ousts Ot-'* lO oo COG* r-HQ OOOO COO *I>Olt^ • (— .eO ^Oooo ■* oio»o»t^c«^ fc- «D r- o OOO-'S'gfc. oseob-oo OCCO*. , . „, 0(N-^^^oio>Aa3Qiioa'^coGoct>— iocioaocoaa>»uj UJiOCSC^SOrH-^lS-COiniOCOOOeOOli— iCOOC^eD«OOOU3 i-T qs" oj t^ CO fff o" otf t-T oT ■^'' os" t-^ US CO eo" ; t^-*C»-*10i~-IC009C*OOr-H-^iOSDO_ _ _ _ ■* CD CO «0 (— I CO CO -^ us O* (H r-i O* t~ oa cocic^ua oi- in O 00 '^ to (N Os" OS CO UJ o' osasoQoaousranusaa*— (CDt^LC 00 Olr- sj^ CO o OS tc ua us O O O CR OS CO _ CO o*„o , so t^i» ;0-*"»o" •nfus'co' iOOS I— ir— 1»0 ^ cd > -QOS i-^. 000000 US l>-CO « Of^ti-l eooa>o «oooo(sq pocoo egoooeoj '■'^^°^'^ O'*O'*C0E0C .ni-4«oco .OS I— I co'io'ttTus' oso OS us oo oo Q ".=>. . TOO^^ s^ "OS Q o o ■fco • r-lffJcd-tfwWticOOSOrHoieO-^USsdtiaDOSOr-^CTeO -^lOCSt^OO OS Or-ic* to-* rHiHrHcHi— ir-tHi— irHr- lO»ct&i(NOltKOT(rie4Ct00eoWcocc UNITED STATES. 591 The "Journal of Commerce" of New York, in pre- ^^™^''„',^"''y senting its readers with some similar Tables, made the journal. , following remarks : — " We have prepared from ofB.cia,l soTirces, exclusively for the 'Journal of Commerce,' the following highly- important comparative Tables of the wool manufacturing industry of the United States for the past twenty years, at the periods of 1850, 1860, and 1870. In it wUl be seen the general growth and local changes of strength in this line of manufacture, and 'the very remarkable differences of sections in this latter respect vdU, of course, be noted. Iowa, Missouri, North Carolina, and Texas had each only one woollen mill in 1850, and Alabama, Arkansas, California, Kansas, Minnesota, Mississippi, Oregon, and South Carolina had none. Now those States show a record of 399 mills. Massachusetts took the lead in 1850, and has kept it, while Pennsylvania, then behind New York and Connecticut, leads both and follows Massachusetts. Connecticut and New York come next, and after them Rhode Island, New Hamp- shire and Maine ,to complete the list of the principal woollen goods-producing States of the Union. Indiana, Vermont, and Ohio are not, however, by any means insignificant in the business. The States of Nevada and Nebraska, and Territories of Arizona, Colorado, Wash- ington, Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming always have been, and are now, without wooUen mills. The State of Mis- souri presents a very cheerful record. " For the past few months our wool manufactures have done an unsatisfactory business. The price of wool went up last December, and the price kept up for two or three months. After that the price went down gradually, till now it is lower than at this time last year. But the advance was not without its effect. The price of fabric did not advance in ratio with the price of staple, and the manufacturers sold many lines of goods at a loss. Many of them seem to be holding off now for lower prices of staple, while Western wool-producers are holding stocks for better prices, and our warehouses in the East are full of Cape, South American, and California wool, waiting for buyers. The market is very irregular, but better times are looked for as soon as money becomes a little easier, and many large manufacturers who have threatened to stop their mills are now preparing to com- 2 s 2 592 UNITED STATES. Importance of States. mence work on spring goods. The increase of establish- ments, motive power, and machinery has been remark- able in the time covered by the Tables, but those results are even less in importance than the improvement in character of the goods manufactured. In 1850 we did not attempt the finer qualities of goods, and indeed it was not until after the war broke out that we reached perfection in those lines. But now, perhaps a hundred of the finest kinds of woollen goods sold as imported fabrics, are made in American nulls. And some of the naore sanguine believe that every kiad of woollen goods now imported here will be made in the United States within ten years as perfectly as they are made abroad ; in fact, that we will be self-sustaining in all goods manufactured of wool." 216. The order of the chief manufacturing States in importance would be as follows, averaging them accord- ing to value of production : — TAB1.E (B). Sets of Cards. Production. Broad Loom Narrow Loom Products. Products. No. Dollars. £ Per cent. Series. Series. Massachusetts . . 11,367 39,502,542 6,600,000 25i 1 2 Pennsylvania 1,317 27,580,586 4,600,000 18 2 1 Connecticut 660 17,371,048 2,900,000 Hi 4 4 New York 843 14,394,786 2,400,000 9i 3 5 Rhode Island 474 12,558,117 2,093,000 8i 7 3 New Hampshire . . 351 8,766,104 1,460,000 5i 6 8 Maine . . 331 6,398,881 1,066,500 a 5 15 Indiana 346 4,329,711 721,600 2i 10 6 Vermont 175 3,619,459 603,250 2| 8 12 Ohio . . 334 3,287,699 548,000 2i 9 7 Illinois . . 250 2,849,249 475,000 If 11 9 New Jersey 81 1,903,825 317,300 u 12 10 Iowa . . 199 1,647,606 274,600 1 14 14. Kentucky •208 1,312,458 218,750 " 23 13 Missouri 258 1,256,213 209,400 17 19 Wisconsin 134 1,250,467 208,400 3 ■ 15 20 Michigan 116 1,204,868 200,800 16 18 California 46 1,102,754 183,800 13 27 All others 874 5,068,985 845,000 3i •• •• Total .. 150,336,373 25,925,300 100 N.B. — I have taken, in this Part, the dollar at 3s. id., its value in 1869-70, for all sums of dollars connected with that year. New England 217. Of thcsc, the New England States together pro- duce to the value of 88,216,151 dollars, or 14,702,700Z., being nearly three-fifths of the aggregate production ; "UNITED STATES. 593 and the Middle States (Maryland contributing nearly ^J''i'"« states. half a million) 44<,309',793 dollars, or 7,385,000/., being nearly one-third of the aggregate production. The Great West produces three-quarters of the fifteenth remaining, west. and of that quantity Indiana, Ohio, and Illinois together produce 10,465,659 dollars, or 1,744,300/., being one- fifteenth of the total, leaving only one-thirteenth for all the remaining States. The running of the mills can be inferred from the proportion of sets of cards to produc- tion, which varies from one to every 5,000 dollars of pro- duction in Missouri, for instance ; to one to nearly every 30,000 dollars in Massachusetts, and the nature of the production from the column arranging the States in their order for broad-loom and narrow-loom products. The woollen industry is more distributed throughout the country than is the cotton industry, yet Boston and Philadelphia with New York are the great centres. The Centres, areas of production may be considered to be the New England States, the Middle States, and the three "Western States of Indiana, Ohio, and Illinois with the neighbour- ing States. 218. The following per-centage Table can be con- Per-centage structed from the Census Table : — Table. Table (C). ... No. Per 100 Horse- power. Per Set. Per 100 dols. Capital. Per 100 Hands. Production. Per 100 ll)s. Per 100 dols. IJ-orse-power 100.0 11-4 118-76 Sets of cards 8-8 10 10-45 Daily capacity ... lbs. 903-6 102 -5 ■"■86 1,074-24 Broad looms ... No. W7 1-7 17-5 Narrow looms 5, 31-0 2-4 23-0 Spindles Hands JJ l,M3-0 220-8 "i-se 2,307 -.5 i'-54 1-3 J 84 '3 9-6 100-0 CapitHl .".. dols. 104,000 11,818 lilO 00 123,600 00 sa'ss o.roo Wiiges )) 58,300 3,216 27 20 33,595 00 23 40 17 00 Primary materiiils ... lbs. 208,000 23,640 300-00 346,135 00 101-60 127-00 Clieniicals nnd dyes ... dols. 6,141 698 5 90 7,293 50 4 86 3 76 All other materials ,, S,968 678 5 70 7,087 50 4 73 3 60 Total materials ... 101,608 11,534 97 60 15(1,1)41 00 80 36 63 20 All products ... ll)s. 126,316 14,354 121 -.50 150,000 00 100 -00 77-30 Ditto ... dols. 163.684 18,600 157 30 194,376 00 139 00 100 00 219. The capital retm^ned is not considered to be correct. But taking it as indicating the facts, I can offer the following observations : — The proportion of capital to establishment and set of cards varies materially in each State. The proportion for the United States is about 34,000 dollars, or 5,667Z. per establishment, and .about 11,800 dollars, or 1,967/. per set of cards. The CapitaL 594 UNITED STATES. Capability of. Productiveness of. Looms. Per set of cards. Daily capacity. proportion per establisliinent varies from a maximum of about 357,000 dollars, or 59,500Z. in California, and of about 111,600 dollars, or 18,600Z., in Massacbusetts and Connecticut, to a minimum of 1,400 dollars, or 234Z., in Soutb Carolina, and one mill of 500 dollars in Florida. The proportion per set of cards raries likewise from a maximum of about 40,000 dollars, or 6,667Z., in Cali- fornia, and of about 19,500 dollars, or 3,250Z., in Con- necticut, to a minimum of about 950 dollars, or 158Z., in Alabama, and tbe one set of 500 dollars in Morida. If California and Oregon, wbicb are as yet of small impor- tance, be excepted, tbe largest average proportion of capital per establisbment and set of cards is in tbe New England States, but tbe Middle States follow closely after tbem. Tbe capability of capital can be gatbered from tbese proportions to sets of cards, and also from tbe column of tbe per-centage Table. Tbe cost of construction, includ- ing circulating capital, may be taken, so far as tbe Census indicates it, at tbose proportions per set of cards. As to tbe productiveness of capital it may be noticed; tbat for tbe United States 100 dollars of capital pro- duces annually 157 dollars of manufactures. Tbis pro- portion varies in tbe different States. In Massacbusetts and Pennsylvania 100 dollars of capital produces 193 dol- lars, wbereas in Alabama it produces 400 dollars, and in Georgia only 50 dollars. 220. It would seem from Table (A), tbat of tbe looms about two-flftbs are broad and tbree-fiftbs are narrow. Tbe varying proportion of looms in eacb State can be gatbered from tbe different order in wbicb tbe States stand, in column 5 and 6 of Table (B), for broad and narrow looms. It will be noticed tbat in tbe New England States tbe broad loom preponderates. Tbe pro- portion of spindles to set of cards is for tbe United States 220-8. As regards looms tbere would appear to be per set of cards 6 narrow looms, or 3-g- looms for tbe United States. If tbe sets of cards in custom miUs were not counted, tbis proportion of looms would be increased about 5 per cent. 221. Tbe daily capacity of tbe sets of cards is given in column of Table (A). It is for tbe United States 102^ lbs. per set, and varies, omitting California and UNITED STATES. 595 Oregon, with their Mgli capacity, on the one hand, and ^Florida, with its one set, on the other hand, from 139 lbs. in Rhode Island to 62 lbs. in Kansas. The capacity shows a producing power of about 64 lbs. per capita for 1870. But the production Production not yaries from the returned capacity. Erom column 2 of *''''^''^- Table (0) it will be seen that for the United States 23,640 lbs. of primary materials were consumed, and about 14,354 lbs. of products were produced per set of cards in. a year, or rather the year 1869-70, when probably some mills did not work full time. These rates Tary considerably in the different States. 222. As regards power, it wUl be seen from column 1 Power, of Table (C) that for the United States 100 horse-power was required to drive 8'8 sets of cards with 14-7 broad looms, 21 narrow looms, and 1,943 spradles. The pro- portion of power to wages as deduced from the Census figures would be misleading if the mills did not work fuU timCj but it is interesting to note the proportion of hands to power as 84" 2 to 100. It does not seem possible to show from these Tables what advantage, if any, the use of water-power gives to the woollen mills of the United States. Table (A) gives for the United States the water- power at about two-fifths and the steam-power at about three-fifths of the whole. The proportions vary much in dififerent States. In Massachusetts the water-power is nearly 5 to 2, whereas in Pennsylvania the steam-power slightly preponderates. The greatest proportions of water-power are in Maine and New Hampshire in the North, and in Virginia in the South. In the West the steam-power preponderates, and in Illinois is five times as much as the water-power. It might perhaps be asserted that as between the New England and the Middle States the larger utilisation of water-power in the former sets off the advantages of the latter in being near the coal fields. 223. In respect of raw materials it is to be observed Raw materials, that according to Table (A) about equal quantities of cotton and shoddy are used, forming together about one- fifth of all the primary materials used. Eoreign wool is returned at scarcely a thirteenth of the total consump- tion of all materials. It will be easily seen from Table (A) how in the different States proportions of primary materials used vary. Only a very small quantity of 596 TNITED STATES. Shoddy. Cotton. Yarns. shoddy is returned for Western and Southern States, and only a small quantity of foreign wool is consumed in the Western States. Cotton is used more or less in nearly every State. Nearly all the quantity of yams returned is entered to Pennsylvania, and it is probable that the larger part of them is sent up from the Southern States. In respect of the wooUen yarns there may, therefore, be some double countuig in the aggregates for the United States. The shoddy is nearly all in the New England and Middle States, and the quantity used ia the one and the other is about the same, but the proportion of shoddy to wool seems to be higher in the Middle States than ia Nevr England. 224. The aggregate cost of each primary material is not given. Erom the aggregate value it would seem that the average price per lb. of primary material con- sumed in 1869-70 was 43 c. 7 m., or 1*. 5^d. for the United States. This price and the correspondiag value vary considerably in different States, as will be seen from Price per lb. of the foUowitig Table, showiag the value of primary mate- product. ^^^Ys per lb. of product in a large number of the States : — Table (D). Price of raw materials. c. m. s. d. Alabama .. 31 3 = 1 9| 2 7| Arkansas .. 54 Connecticut . . .. 79 Kentucky .. 97 5 3 3 Louisiana •. . 59 1 111 Maine . . .. 81 2 8i Maryland .. 72 3 2 5 Massachusetts .. 77 3 2 7 Michigan .. 76 3 2 6i Minnesota . . 64 1 2 H Mississippi . . .. 77 8 2 n 2 3} 2 7| New Hampshire .. 68 8 New Jersey . . .. 79 1 New York . . .. 82 6 2 9 North Carolina .. 61 6 1 81 Oregon (gold) .. 49 8 2 1 Pennsylvania. . .. 52 2 1 9 Rhode Island. . .. 92 3 3 4 South Carolina .. 48 7 1 7f 1 9 1 10- Tennessee .. 54 3 Texas .. 55 6 Utah .. 73 2 5-- Vermont .. 70 2 4 Virginia .. 61 2 2 Oi "Wisconsin .. 56 1 1 101 2 4| United States .. 71 8 UNITED STATES. 597 The aggregate weiglits of production employed in this and the following Tables are those estimated accord- ing to the data in paragraphs 231 to 234. It should therefore be borne in mind, that if these estimates are too high or too low, the results arranged in this and the following Table should be proportionably raised or diminished. 225. In addition to the primary materials, the Census Chemicals and Table (A) distinguishes the " chemicals and dye-stuflfe " ^**' and " other materials " from those primary materials. The following Table wiU show their proportionate values per lb. of production in the same States : — Table (E). states. Chemicals and Dyes. All other Materials. Total. c. m. c. m. 0. m. d. Alabama . . , , 2 2 0-1 Arkansas . . , , 8 8 0-4 Connecticut 4 5 5 6 10 1 4 Kentucky . . . , 3 1 3 6 6 7 2| Louisiana . . 8 3 3 8 Maine 6 3 5 1 11 4 41 Maryland . . 3 1 6 5 5 2^ Massachusetts 6 8 6 3 13 1 51 Michigan . . 4 1 3 7 1 3 Minnesota . . 5 6 2 5 8 1 3i Mississippi. . 5 5 5 6 New Hampshire 6 6 2 4 9 New Jersey 4 1 6 8 10 9 41 New]York . . 4 9 7 3 12 2 4| 11 Nortn Carolina 1 9 2 3 9 Oregon (gold) 2 21 1 5 3 n H Pennsylvania 3 2 2 9 6 1 H Rhode Island 5 3 6 3 11 6 H South Carolina 1 2 3 1 5 0-6 Tennessee . . 41 1 2 1 6 0-7 Texas Si of 1 11 OJ Utah 1 H 1 7 2 1 Vermont . . 3 5 6 5 10 4 Virginia . . 2 4 , , 2 4 7 Wisconsin . . 4 4 1 8 6 2 2* United States 4 81 4 71 9 5| 3| 226. In respect of " other materials " it should be " other observed that they include fuel for steam-power, and are materials.' therefore less in value in States where water is the chief 598 UNITED STATES. power. The rent for water-power would, in such cases, he probahly included in what would remain of the value at the miU after deducting cost of primary materials and the other various 'items of cost of manufacturing {vide further as to water-power in Part II). After every allowance for variations in the value of dyes and supplies per lb. of products, there remain a few which seem to be due rather to incomplete Returns than to the nature of the production, and the geographical position of the miUs. Wages. 227. The information to be derived from Tables (A) and (C) with respect to labour and wages, is interesting and important. It appears from column 4 of Table (C) that in the United States each hand produced in one year 1,500 lbs. From the same column it likewise appears that the investment per hand, assuming the approximative accuracy of the E/cturns as to capital, was 1,235 dollars, or 206Z. sterling. As very few of the establishments are for spuming alone, this distiaction will not materially affect the rate per hand. Per hand. 228. The annual wages per hand were 336 dollars, or 561. for 1869. If it be assumed that the average work- ing year is 300 days, this gives 3s. 9d. per day, and if the day be taken at 11 hours, 4i^d. per hour of actual earn- ings. This calculation will not, however, give the cost of laboTir per hour unless the mills were aU running full time throughout the year, which was probably not the fact ; or unless the stoppage by day of some mills was counterbalanced by the running of others at night. The same assumption of ratios between the wages of men, women, and children, viz., 3, 2, 1, canaot be made as in the cotton manufacture, for the variation in the ratio is much greater in the woollen mills. It should be noticed that those actual earnings for 1869-70 do not correspond with the earnings deduced in Dr. Young's Table as prepared for Mr. Commissioner Wells for 1869. The reason is obvious, that rates of wages do not necessarily mean actual earnings. In the case of cotton mills the actual earnings were not higher, probably because the operatives would not work more ; but in the case of the woollen mills, it was probably to some extent because the mills did not run, and therefore the operatives could not earn more. Suct^ 229. It wUl be seen from Table (C), column 5, that UNITED STATES. 599 the proportion of wages per lb. of product was 22 c. 4 jr., or 9jd., and that the wages are 17 per cent, of the value of the product. In order to show to what extent the rates and proportions of wages vary in. different States, I have computed the following Tables, corresponding to Tables (G) and (H) of Part II for cotton :— Table (F). Invest- ment Average Wages per Hand. Hands states. per Set of per Hand. Per Annum. Per Day. Per Hour. Cards. Dols. D. c. D. c. m. u. m. No. Alabama .. 548 119 05 , , If Arkansas . . 1,050 221 61 73 9 6 7 2.0 Connecticut 1,712 393 63 1 31 2 11 9 11 5 Kentucky. . 1,021 306 90 1 02 3 9 3 3 3 Louisiana. . 1,170 346 04 1 15 4 10 5 2 4 Maine 1,387 344 31 1 14 8 10 4i 9 Maryland . . 930 250 80 83 6 7 6 5 4 Massachusetts 1,004 355 10 1 18 4 10 8 15. Michigan . , 1,515 304 07 1 01 4 9 2 5 3 Minnesota 1,700 312 30 1 04 1 9 5 5 7 Mississippi 1,680 248 L'f 82 7 7 5 7 7 New Hampshire 1,230 361 o7 1 20 4 10 10 7 New Jersey 1,070 301 89 1 00 6 9 2 13 5 New York 1,140 321 64 1 07 2 9 6 10 4 North Carolina 950 156 40 3 2 Oregon , . 2,160 623 34 2 07 8 is' 9 ' 8 5 Pennsylvania 1,115 342 63 1 14 2 10 4 9 7 Khode Island 1,120 350 21 1 16 7 10 6 13 3 South Carolina 500 72 00 , , 2 1 Tennessee 873 146 68 , , , , 2 4 Texas 972 202 78 67 6 6 1 3 5 Utah 2,179 452 87 1 50 9 13 4 5 3 Vermont . . 1,235 344 65 1 14 9 10 4 10 7 Virginia . . 2,285 211 70 70 6 6 4 2 4 Wisconsin 1,600 295 95 98 6 8 9 5-8 600 UNITEB STATES. Investment per hand. Actual annual wage. Hands per set. Cost of labour. Table (G). States. Value of Product. Cost of Labour per lb. I'ropor- tion to Value per cent. Gross Product per Hand. Net per Hand. D. c. m. 4, m. Lbs. D. D. Alabama . . • 49 7 2 7 5i 4,400 2,195 795 Arkansas . . 77 2 6 7i 8J 3,300 2,540 740 87d Connecticut 1 41 7 23 7 16i 1,710 2,380 Kentucky 1 64 19 9 12 1,170 1,920 278 Louisiana. . . 99 29 30 1,070 1,063 406 Maine 1 50 5 24 6 164 1,400 2,103 802 Maryland. . 1 41 4 26 5 18J 918 1,107 492 Massachusetts 1 43 6 26 5 18i 1,340 1,921 711 Michigan . . 1 52 4 25 5 16| 1,184 1,802 812 Minnesota 1 46 5 30 4 20 1,028 1,505 735 Mississippi 1 55 30 3 19J 819 1,270 574 New Hampshire 1 28 8 20 164 1,813 2,340 927 New Jersey 1 40 24 8 17i 1,216 1,740 630 New York 1 59 8 31 5 20 1,215 1,633 865 North (Jarolina 99 5 13 13 1,205 1,154 388 Oregon . . 1 19 7 26 4 22 2,400 2,800 1,706 Pennsylvania 91 9 14 5 16 2,350 2,160 793 Rhode" Island 1 72 30 5 18 1,150 1,972 701 South Carolina 75 8 3 11 870 650 230 Tennessee 74 1 7 9i 2,102 1,625 448 Texas 61 2 8 13 2,500 1,529 661 Utah 1 53 6 36 8 24 1,225 1,890 963 Vermont . . 1 50 8 27 18 1,280 ],926 890 Virginia .. 97 7 11 8 12 1,806 1,755 355 Wisconsin 1 13 7 20 8 18i 1,420 1,650 766 United States 1 29 6 22 4 17 .. N.B. — The dollar should be taken at 3s. id. for conversion into sterling. Vide Table (K^ for nature of manufactures. 230. It will be noticed that, although, the investment per hand varies considerably, according to the locality of the mills and the nature of the manufactures, yet it may be said to be, on an average, 1,200 dollars or 200Z. per hand in the 'chief manufacturing Eastern and Middle States. The average annual wage, wherever the mUls were probably in operation throughout the year, only exceeds 400 dollars in Texas, Utah, and Oregon. Although in Connecticut it reaches 393 dollars, it does not average in the Eastern and Middle States more than the average of the United States. The number of hands per set where the industry embraces all products, in general, is from nine to fifteen hands. The cost of labour varies considerably, for obvious _ reasons, and in some instances without any obvious reason. And the columns of gross and net product per hand show the efficiency in 1869-70 of labour and plant "UNITED STATES. 601 in the different States. There is not, however, sufficient time at my disposal to indicate the many points of interest in the foregoing Tables. In the Census Returns the kinds of products are stated Products, with some detail, but the coarse and fine qualities are not distinguished. Moreover, the weights of the products are seldom given, and there is no aggregate weight of all products returned. It is possible to obtain some idea of the proportion of each category of products to the aggre- gate by a comparison of the number of yards manufac- tured of each. But it is more satisfactory to compare the products by weight of material than by so variable an unit as a yard of fabric. The enormous variety of woollen goods makes this a difficult task, but I venture to attempt it. The aggregate quantity of so-called raw materials and Estimate of yams consumed in 1869-70 was about 215,600,000 lbs. ^"'='''°^- I am informed that the net waste of such materials from wool to cloth is about one-sixth, i.e., that 1 lb. and 16f are consumed in making 1 lb. of cloth. This waste varies necessarily with the nature of the product and the capacity of the mill for using up its waste in coarser goods. But it will perhaps suffice to take this average for this inquiry, in order to secure an approximative accuracy for the coming calculations. On the wools there is also an allowance for shrinkage to be made, and on the shoddy some extra waste should be allowed. On the yarns and warps, moreover, the waste to cloth would be proportionably smaller than usual. A Table of shrinkages will be found in paragraph 285. 232. After considerable inquiry, and by the cour- teous aid of some eminent merchants of woollen goods and of a wool merchant of high standing, I am able to compute the following estimate of the aggregate weight of production, as indicated by the quantities of raw and primary materials returned : — 602 UNITED STATES. Table (H). Primary Materials. Allowance. Net Weight in Cloth. Lbs. Cotton . . , , 16 per cent, for waste • • 14,670,000 Shoddy .. 20 „ 15,400,000 Yarns (cotton) 5 !) )J 3,100,000 Warps 5 „ „ 700,000 Wool (domestic) ] 47^ per cent, for shrinkage 1^ for waste [ 71,000,000 Wool (foreign) [ 40 per cent, for shrinkage ^ for waste > 8,750,000 - Total 113,620,000 'RoUs.' For various To this I would add 6 per cent, for weight of sHk and other materials used in the course of manufaoturej making a total of over 121,000,000 lbs. of production. I purpose, therefore, taking 120,000,000 lbs. in round numbers as the aggregate weight of materials in the resulting production. Two remarks on my estimate are necessary : I have omitted the woollen yarns, as in aU probability constituting a case of double counting; I have also excepted from shrinkage the wool correspond- ing to the quantity of "rolls" returned amongst the products, and for this reason, — the " rolls " are usually wool carded at so-called Custom-mills for the farmer's families to spia and weave, the wool having been pre- viously washed, scoured, and scutched by them before being taken to the carding mill, A part of the yam returned is probably manufactured for this same purpose and in the same manner. 233. For use in the Tables of this Part I have calcu- lated on a similar basis, and with the assumption in some cases that part of the yam produced was likewise from farmers' scoured wool, the following rough estimate of the aggregate weight of production in the States named : — Lbs. Alabama . . 182,000 Arkansas . . 102,000 Connecticut . . 12,250,000 Kentucky.. 800,000 Louisiana . . 3,000 Maine . . 4,250,000 Maryland . . 300,000 UNITED STATES. Lbs. Massachusetts . . 27,500,000 Michigan . . 790,000 Minnesota.. 150,000 Mississippi 95,000 New Hampshire . . 6,800,000 New Jersey .. 1,350,000 New York . . 9,000,000 North Carolina 300,000 Oregon 425,000 Pennsylvania .. 30,000,000 Rhode Island . . 7,300,000 South Carolina 46,000 Tennessee . . 900,000 Texas 250,000 Utah 130,e00 Vermont . . . . 2,400,000 Virginia . . 500,000 Wisconsin. . . . 1,000,000 603 The B-etums of material for Utah, would show 180,000 Ibs.j but there seems t6 he an error in the wool returned. 234. I have also been enabled by statements in publications, and by the courtesy of several manufac- turers, to collect the weights of many of the woollens mentioned in these Census Returns ; and with these, and a due allowance for the preponderance of coarse over fine qualities, I have constructed the following Table of weights : — Estimate from products. 604 TJNITBD STATES. Table (I). Fabrics. Average Weight. Aggregate Weight. Range of Weights. Blankets . Pair 6 lbs 12,000,000 4 lbs. to 10 lbs. s> . . No. , , 100,000 Beavers ... . Yard 30 oz. (54 inch) . . 500,000 24 oz. to 36 oz. Cloths, casslmeres and doeskins ;.}•• 10 oz. (27 inch) . . 38,600,000 4 oz. to 36 oz. Cloth, felted 18 oz. (54 inch) .. 1,800,000 16 oz. to 24 oz. „ negro ti 8 oz. . . 1,000,000 Cottonade • 9S 6 oz. . . 28,000 Coverlids . No. 18 oz. . . 245,000 4 to 2 and more lb. Flannels. . . Yard 4 oz. . . 14,750,000 3 oz. to 10 oz. Frocking • t> 8 oz. . . 37,500 Hosiery . . • . Dozen 2 lbs 43,000 2 lbs. to Z\ lbs. Jeans . . . . Yard 4 oz. . . 6,122,500 Kerseys . . • >t 12 oz. . . 4,200,000 11 oz. to 22 oz. Linseys .. ft 5 oz. . . 4,500,000 Repellants • Sf 12 oz. (54 inch) . . 2,000,000 10 oz. to 14 oz. Robes, carriage . . No. 50,000 Rolls . . . Lbs. 8,683,069 Satinets.. . Yards 12 oz, (27 inch) .. 10,620,000 6 oz. to 14 oz. Shawls . . . No. .. 4,650,000 1 9 to 26 oz. square 32 to 48 oz. long Shirts, Balmoral . . Yards , , 250,000 Tweeds and Twills 6 oz. 1,000,000 Warps .. • >y , . 100,000 Yam .. • 3) , , . , „ hosiery . Lbs. 8,500,000 „ shoddy • »3 . , l,5fi9,000 Unspecified • ft 80,000 Miscellaneous 33 1,000,000 122,428,069 Value of product. Cost of production. This result agrees sufficiently with, the result, of 120,000,000 lbs. reached by the calculation of aggre- gate weight from materials consumed to confirm the approximate accuracy of that aggregate. 235. The value per pound of the gross product is 1 dol. 29 c. 6 m. for the United States. Its value for each of the States especially named in my Tables has been given in column 1 of Table (G) . The variations in that value foUow mainly the variations in the nature of the manufactures, but are also caused by geographical position and varying cost of living and materials, and may to some extent be due to incomplete Returns. 236. If, as I venture to think with fairness, it be assumed that, excluding the categories hereinafter named, the cost of produciag the higher priced articles is more than set off by the cost of producing the lower priced articles so as to make the average cost of their aggregate production less by some 30 per cent, than the average UNITED STATES. 605 cost of production for the United States, then it may be inferred from the large proportion of " blankets, cloths, cassimeres, and doeskins and flannels" to the total of products, that the average cost of production in the United States, namely 1 dol. 29 c. 6 m., or 4s, 3f c?., per lb. is lower than the average cost of producing the staple articles in those categories for the year 1869-70, but should be increased by about 15 per cent., to say 1 dol. 50 c, or 5s. per lb. This result can however be only taken as an indication of the facts, and its approximative accuracy depends upon the accuracy of the data from which it is deduced. The average cost of production in respect of the items of aggregate of the woollen manufactures of the United States is, according to column 5 of Table (0), as follows : — D. c. m. s. d. Primary materials . . . . 70 7 . 7 = 2 4 J Chemicals and dye stuffs .. 04 8-6 2 Other materials , .. .. 04 7'3 2 Labour .. .. .. 22 4-0 8| Eemainder .. ,. ..0 26 8-0 lOf Value at mill . . . . 1 29 5 -8 4 3J In "remainder" are profit, interest, insurance, taxes, general expenses and depreciation, and perhaps some water-power rent. It is assumed that the value returned is value at mill ; but it may contain in some instances commissions to the wholesale dealers, as well as what the remainder may be held to usually contain. If the foregoing average cost of production plus 15 per cent., or say, if 1 dol. 50 c, or 5s., be taken to represent the average cost of producing "blankets, cloths, cassimeres, doeskins, and flannels," then a com- parison of the value at mill with the average market price would be a test of approximative accuracy. In 1869-70 blankets are said to have sold at prices equal to about 1 dol. 10 c. per lb., flannels at about the same per lb. ; all wool cloths at prices equal to about 1 dol. 90 c. per lb. ; doeskins to 1 dol. 60 c, and cassimeres to 1 dol. 75 c. per lb. With a due regard to the probable proportions of these articles in the above categories, the average price per lb. would appear to be 1 dol. 47 c. for 1869-70. If, then, these prices are fair averages, the estimate of cost of production or rather of selling value is not far wrong. [353] 2 T 606 UNITED STATES. Of cloths, &c. The items would probably be thus distributed : — In various States. Of cloths, &c. D. c. m. s. d. Primary materials . 81 9 = 2 8| Chemicals and dyes . 05 2 Other materials . . . 04 8 2 Labour . 27 2 10| Remainder . . 31 1 1 01 Total 1 50 5 In the following Table I have, in respect of the States already specially named, arranged the items of the cost of production. Table (K). states. II II. i 1 3 Is Nature of Products. f^S S hi K > c. m. u. m. c. m. c. m. c. m. D. c. m. Alabama 31 5 2 2 7 15 5 49 7 Rolls and yarn. Arkansas 54 , , 8 6 7i 15 6 77 2 Rolls. Connecticut 79 4 5 5 6 23 7 28 9 1 41 7 General. Kentucky 97 5 3 1 3 6 19 9 39 9 1 64 Jeans and rolls. Louisiana 59 8 3 29 7 2 99 Rolls. Maine 81 6 3 5 1 24 6 33 5 1 50 5 General. Maryland 72 3 3 I 6 26 5 38 1 41 4 KerseySj &c. Massachusetts . . 77 3 6 8 6 3 26 5 26 7 1 43 6 General. Michigan 76 3 4 1 3 25 5 43 5 1 52 4 Cloths, flannels. Sir. Minnesota 64 1 5 G 2 5 30 4 53 9 1 46 5 Ditto. Mississippi 7- 8 5 5 5 30 3 '40 9 1 55 Linseys, &c. New Hampshire 68 8 G 6 2 4 20 41 1 28 8 Flannels, &c. New Jersey 79 1 4 1 6 8 24 8 25 2 1 40 Cloths, &c. New York 82 6 4 9 7 3 31 5 30 8 1 59 8 General. North Carolina . 51 6 1 9 2 13 31 99 5 Cloths, jeans. Oregon 49 8 2 2i 1 5 26 4 39 7 1 19 7 Cloths, flannels. Pennsylvania . , 52 2 3 2 2 9 14 5 19 1 91 9 General. Rhode Island . . 99 3 5 3 6 3 30 5 30 6 1 72 Cloths, &c. South Carolina . 48 7 1 2 3 8 3 16 5 75 Rolls, &c. Tennessee 54 3 a 1 2 7 11 1 74 1 Rolls, jeans, &c. Texas 55 6 5i 5f 8 4 4 61 2 Rolls, kerseys, &c. Utah 73 1 Oi 1 7 36 8 61 1 53 6 Rolls, flannels. Vermont 70 3 5 6 5 27 43 8 1 50 8 Cloths, flannels. Virginia 61 2 2 4 , , 11 8 22 3 97 7 Rolls and cloths. Wisconsin 56 1 4 4 1 8 20 8 30 6 1 13 7 r Rolls, yam, cloths, \ flannels. General. United States . . 70 7 4 8i 4 7 22 4 26 8 1 29 5 N.B. — To convert into sterling the foregoing items of currency, take the dollar at 3s. 4d., as representing its average value iu 1869-70. One cent is equal to 'id., or 24 cents are equal to one penny. 239. As regards average cost of production, the averages of the following half-dozen States, viz., Con- necticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New York, Pennsyl- vania, and Ehode Island, with a large range of products UNITED STATES. 607 agree, as regards value at mill, rery nearly with tlie value estimated in paragraph. 239 for the higher priced staples of this industry. 240. The averages of the following four States — ofroUs." Alahama, Arkansas, Louisiana, and South OaroUna, show the average cost therein of producing the " rolls " or carded wool. There are som.e articles produced in them of greater value, hut the labour and materials therein may, on the whole, be set off by the labour and pre- paration of the wool for the carding, which is often unrepresented. In this case the difference between the average value of the primary materials and the average value of the product in those States may be taken to represent approximatively the total cost of manufacturing wool into carded wool, viz., 25 cents or lOd. per lb. This cost of manufacturing would probably be consider- ably less in the Eastern and Middle States. 241. If allowance be made for the " rolls " and other of jeans. manufactures in Kentucky, the value at mill of jeans would seem to be about 1 dol. 80 c. or 6s. per lb. The particulars as to production in Tennessee support the averages of the four States for the production of roUs. In Maryland, the cost of production may be taken as of kerseys. representing that of union kerseys at 1 dol. 41^ c. or 4s. Sgd. per lb. The details in Utah have been given, in order to indicate the conditions under which the woollen industry has there commenced. As in New Hampshire five-sixths of the production of blankets is in blankets and flannels, and in unions of about the* *" '"""'^ ^' same cost of production, the items may be taken as indicating approximatively the average cost of producing flannels and blankets in the Eastern States, vi?., 1 dol. 29 c. or 4s. 4d. per lb. 242. In Virginia, the average cost of producing of cloths, cloths, kerseys, and linseys would appear to be, after \^seya.' "" allowance for the preponderating "rolls," about Idol. 50 c. or 5s. per lb. In the States of New Jersey, Michi- gan, Minnesota, Oregon (Gold), and Yermont, it does not differ materially from this result. In Mississippi 5s. represents the cost of linseys. In North Carolina the average cost of cloths, cassi- of cloths, meres, and jeans is also 5s. per lb., after due allowance j'^n™^'^^^' ^^ for the « rolls." 2 T 2 608 UNITED STATES. Of cloths. In Wisconsin, after making a similar allowance for cassimeres, and « roUs," the average cost of cloths, cassimeres, and flannels. flanncls is ahout 1 dol. 52 c. or say 5s. per lb. 243. If these indications as to cost of mamifacturmg woollens be assembled ia a Table, they wiU with their details stand as follows : — Table (L). — Cost of Manufacturing Woollens. Cost of manu- facturing. Comparison with 1860. ■a 1 i ll Total. ^ •^ Ib a o. a OS ^ OW d. d. d. s. d. I. d. Average in United States 2 2 8i lOf 1 Hi „ Eastern and Middle States 2 2i 10 11 2 H Probable (in Kentucky) for jeans H 1* 10 1 4 2 5i „ (in Maryland) for kerseys li Oi 104 1 3 2 34 „ in East for flannels and blankets H 1 8 1 4i 2 3 „ in United States for cloths, cassi- meres, &c. 24 u 9i 1 3 2 4 The above items are calculated at 3s. 4-d. to the dollar, which was its value in 1869-70. But if the present value of 3s. 9d. be taken, then these items must be increased, as regards the total, by 2d., and by adding one-eighth to the others. The cost of labour, it will be observed, is from 30 to 33 per cent, of the total cost of manufacturing. I think it is a fair* inference from these data, that the average cost of manufacturing the higher class of woollens, such as cloths, cassimeres, &c., is about 2s. Gd. per lb., and the average cost of manufacturing the lower class of woollens is about 2s. per lb. of product. 244. Table (A) contains an interesting comparison of the wooUen industry of 1870 with 1860. The sets of cards have increased 150 per cent., the hands employed nearly 100 per cent., the capital has been more than trebled, and the wages nearly trebled, and the production increased 150 per cent. The following comparison of the per-centage value of each item of cost of production to the value of the production wiU be found interesting : — Primary Materials. Dyes. Other Materials. Labour. General Expenses, &c. In I860.. In 1870.. 59 54-8 3-7 3-6 154 17-1 254 20-7 UNITED STATES. 609 b. — T%e Worsted Manufactures of the United States. Worsted manufactures. 245. These are the creation of the last decade, and are rapidly increasing in importance. Keeping in view the considerations which have been advanced respecting the accuracy of the Census Statistics in most particulars, with the only great exception of capital, I now proceed to quote the Census Table of Census worsted manufactures, and to comment thereupon. statistics. 610 UNITED STATES. o CO o CO EC o o 1^ ■3 & lie W ii.i»iioa •sjuiioa '•0|mu3j ■aaiii[.t ■nv •i\\W\ •gt OAoqn BOiumojX 'Ol OAOtlU BOitin ■nv ■«l).iuo ■saipuiils •BlUOO'X 'R»ll!l|.> ■Bprno ■BJopin.in Mn(|lUllJ^ M;iM(Kl-i)il.lOH 'joqtuuil ■.l:i.tt()ll-i)K,lt)|l 2 i 'joqiun^ ■aoqiun^ mIIim ! ! ; §is§lt§l§.§.§ ■ iSts • • i ! ! ! ?f »sgg§=J-S^^'""' I -■UM -■...-> 'r>irt 3d g Ml o\fH 2 iS'^S''^ iSS : i;2( i ! : iS^ i w :'?'" J'-' twM ■ : ;'*'*« ! :^-* t ; =3 lis ii*iL=s i i r-r '-■ of (Wm 'ocowni ;r-*r)irH \ to 55 (?* lo lo o lo Q iij 1 o» : 11 -H 171 CO >o .8 .B'-WSg , , 5 H 15 m m t^ ffl r-f (-, H fH i ■ ij : ! i i • i : 8 « g tS *n (H g" « 1 1 UNITED STATES. 611 S s K o O «D CO iH I O !>• to R o o O fl H O lO C 'O .t- Ol— 3'5 :3 cot- .00 OS s ri a cf r--n^ oo OOOOCOQOOOOCJO C3 — ^ ®°-o;^_5^,^ils,5i_s.S. ^oo" O lO M Ct CI TiTr-l CI !» CO CJ <% 3o ccioeocooos'oi>3cc— I /^CC W O O CI r-< t» t- ■p. ^-#- «,-rt- ^-^■' l-t ^ Q o o ooooo o o o oiooQOia o S a 1^ .3 00 o^ ,ct .<='_**<='»<» .^i 1-5 "=> CO O I>-C-lO«3«3 o "os us i-HQOCt So >-l C3 Q CO o « J c -? o 1^ ^'^l :oc. :=::::: : ►^^ ■ i CI — Em ^cf to o oo Q- g ,«-s oo 4^ .Soo g "-^S QOC- "-^ m OOQO^OO oo d a i os'o'eo'r-Tio'o Jt~^l< • : ^^ «jor-Ciioio 'OO ■ ■ l-HOOlO ^O 00 ei" •f eo o ifl^ooooooei O raoooo-^coooeo mS 00 ^"WOi_-rc»t>c^C»'-,-r 'I 691,000 83,000 8,380,541 1,447,433 618,980 237,400 180,000 7,883,038 3,835,960 35,000 6,00& 31 o ec ' ' ' Is 1- O |l 4 .M.n||M 11 P CO J- &C a> o o : : : iS • :S- ; : : • * ■ 'o • "cs • • • o bo 4% U3 U3 ' ■ SO - r-T • ■ ifT ■ • • 00 CO CO ^ 1 oS- ■^" 1 i-l : : i :°" : :« : : •' (-( Ol ^5 t>o o oo o . .es .1 ss g : =|& =& =gS :»" •1 1 26,169.386 8,135,000 6,600,000 5-9 ^1 lo" 3,1 1^1 331.600 136.000 684,340 go^ooo 107,000 193,500 353,000 661,0i)0 1 ■s 1 Connecticut Maine Massachusetts New Hampshire ... New Jereey , New York Ohio Pennsylrania Bhode Island Termoiit Wisconsin UNITED STATES. 613 246. Since 1860, when the production was confined to Massachusetts and New Hampshire, and only amounted to 750,000?., it has spread into Rhode Island, Connecticut, Maine, and Vermont, and has sprung up in the Middle States 'of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York, and has also commenced in Ohio and Wisconsin. The production was worth in 1870 ahout 3,700,000/., and is now worth much more. 247. The following Per-centage Table has been com- Per-centage puted from the Census Table. Table (N). Table. Per 100 horse- power. Per. 100 dols. Capital. To Production. ... No. Per 100 Spiadlea. Per 100 Hands. Per 100 lbs. Per 100 Dols. Horee-power 100 4 Braiders ... J, 92 3-7 Looms and kuittera ... „ 79 3-2 Spindles Hands ... ,j 2,600 100 2 ... ti 161J e-a 100 Capital ... Dols. 126.000 6,040 lOO 77,700 72-2 46-9 WasBS , 64,611 2,184 43-3 83,607 31-2 19-7 Materials ... Lbs. 276,000 11,000 217 '8 169,231 167-2 99-4 Chemicals and other materials . ... Dols. 15,750 630 12 '4 9,700 9-0 6 7 Total materials j» 180,000 7,200 141-6 110,630 102-3 64-8 All products ... Lbs. 176,000 7,000 138-6 107,682 100 63-4 ,, ...Dols. 276,000 11,040 218-7 169,923 167-8 100 248. Assuming the correctness of the Returns for capital, I can offer the following remarks thereon. The proportion of capital is 98,880 dollars or 16,430Z. by establislmient, and 5,040 dollars or 840/. per 100 spindles for the United States. But taking the spindle as the unit is not altogether satisfactory. The proportions of capital per establishment and per 100 spindles in the six chief States are as follows : — Per Estab- Per 100 lishment. Spindles. Connecticut 82,500 13,450 Braids. Massachusetts . . 81,150 29,500 Delaine;:, braids. Bengals. New Hampshire , . 350,000 8,750 Delaines, yarn, &c. New Jersey 39,600 6,000 Balmorals, braids, &c. Pennsylvania 108,067 14,400 Dress goods and yarn. Rhode Island . . 209,090 39,000 Delaines^ braid. 249. It will be noticed that there are— Of Sets of cards . . . . . . 98 in use Foreign combers . . . . . . 66 „ Domestic combers. . . . . 95 ,, Capital. Plant. If a comber could have been reckoned as equal to 614 UNITED STATES. Productiveness of capital. Power. Raw materials. Price of. Wages, Efficiency of labour. a set of cards, it would liave formed a better unit than the 100 spindles. Moreover, as only one-half of the cotton yam is purchased, these spiadles include also cotton spindles. There seem to be several incomplete Returns in these statistics of worsted, so that it is difficult to understand them. 250. As to the productiveness of capital, it will be seen from column 3 of Table (N), that 100 dollars of capital produce for these States 119 lbs. (of a value of 218 dollars) of manufactures. This production varies much in the different States. 251. As regards power, it will be seen from column 1 of Table (N) that for the United States 100 horse-power was required to drive 92 braiders, 79 looms, 2,500 spindles, and the accompanying machinery. The Table (M) shows that in the worsted manufac- tures the steam-power is three-sevenths and the water- power is four-sevenths of the whole required. In Penn- sylvania and E,hode Island the power is almost entirely steam, whereas in Massachusetts the power is nearly four-fifths water, and in New HampsMre, Maine, and Vermont is entirely water. In respect of raw materials, it is to be observed that only a small quantity of shoddy is returned ; domestic wool is two-thu'ds, foreign wool about one-sixth, and cotton and yarn nearly one-fifth of the consumption. The proportions in the various States vary considerably according to the nature of the production. The average price of the so-called raw materials consumed would seem to be about 67 cents or 2s. Sd. per lb., and the variation is comparatively small in the different States when the proportions of materials are allowed for. But the cost of the primary materials per lb. of product would be 93 cents, or about 3s. Id. 252. It wiU be observed that the average actual annual wage per hand in the worsted mills is the same as that returned for the woollen mills. There is no need, therefore, to repeat here the Table of Wages. As regards the efficiency of the labour, the best method will be to measure it in terms of the production. It may be thus stated : — In the year 1869-70, 700 lbs. of primary materials were manufactured by each hand into 1,077 lbs. of product, of the value of about 1,700 dollars, or 284S( ir- Q s t- 1 •eibiioq: .iDC^ioOco" =s' '*, ■*" rH '-' o oo ooooo o o ■3 J ^ •Biunna s ■"""wco JhcI ■B « l-H Q li fd ■eqinoi ^ g : ■SI 1 340qE S9il!niaj[ s- 1« . ■91 oo^eioos 00 r-t s OAoqB saiBj^ eo" co" m •TIT of r^ ' « CO =5 ^ aii-i-^a» ^ smooi jajioa; in S : ■ ig°*'^g ceo CMCiOOeO !_, ■* s •siuooi pncH fe s "■ to ^ ^ ^ g •sjag 'spiuo S •B3nillDB[tt o o s • : -.S" : : .°* Smquioo '"' s-i •aaqninij 00 :rH>flr-ClCX) :- : i| c* •jaA^od-asioH ^ ; •jaqTUn^ -tH 00 : : :ai JrHrH :S i." t- C0r-<0«) o "w ■.T0.ttOcI-aSIDII cc • * ■ i-T M CQr-i 1— Kcecci CO il s^naiuTtsni^^sa; c* i 1 J :.2 ■: Tl s g tJ :3 : : :4S;g : : eS'S : 1 1 1^ aM fl & t= ■S-S.2 ihf. a a all ■l&lglgl II 1 UNITEiD STATES. 619 'T3 I -t-a s o O CO o CO CO I o 0!! CO eso .gsssss s s .1— ■ wio o in^t^co 00 i-H CT n •> t^cf . , ^t^Os'co"e6' .CO . i-T •spnpoij nv ci" • i— iooa)a»t>- 'US • »5r o o g050^ tjr •Ejonpoia: '1 "ooe-oco o .t- o o t- 'UU119U0A •So : : : :5 : : :| -S : = r-T ""• o o o «C3 o o ■qSAtaA l§ o c:>_ • -S ■•§■■■ • iS tHM O 3 g 1 ■iHBaJci |S" 1 :^" : -g" : : 1 : fH(>, So OS (K (;2 Q '3'-i •3inr ^i . . . ■ i : : i : :| : • 1— < in CO O OO OQQ i« O O eo O ni 00 ni O THt>. [D*^ oci ou=soir-n* t- us OO If OSr-" . US 10, ,969, 113, 118, ,805, .385, l-t l-H r-t mo r-i r-4 Q Q O O C3 O '3'-?. •»P,il SJ = : : : : ;| -5 : : xa lO O O i^O o '3"'., to •S[agBiijg ag § i : : ::3" : ig" i : i i IHOO rH u= rH CO t^t- OCOOOt-CO CO lO OS-* O CM 03 OS CO ^ Ol CO «D^ 65 -^00 rJ" 00 MCS ec t>; •Birasj^K TIT Is §""" - ■"^siSi -s" - flco" P-T co" CO in ■s • l-l .« t-C4 OQOOot— ira O lO 2 mco t^-O O -* iDOS CO (H t^ 1 g •B111U3H!H .rai[10 iiv co" : OCSOr-HlO -* r-( J. (— ( "* o ■* o oiO* (3 •lUBI nsnooAi. Si I'-*" : :::::: :g : : g tc tC Ci 00 OT^OOt-Ol o o o O SD ffi eo CO CM in .cs_ njoa" rH . . .1— ICOVOt^^ .OS ,r^ •pOj\Y -=M OS : : :c3r-.^oso :cs : h^— 1 CO * • 00 «) « ■Ti, • C*^ ' w" cm" O" 00 ts O* rH 1 : : : : i S :.2 : H "S '"a " « m g nj rs "o • • ;-23 ■ : sj-a • 1 1 ill e land .. aclmsel Hamps Jersey York ., gylvani e'lslam 3iisin ., g 620 TJNITED STATES. •6 o O CO o CO CO o CO 6C H o Hi ■apnpoii ]iY OS ooa i-H QeO .r-To" us" watt's • «0 U3 r^ (7' OQ ■Bpnpojj nv •BIBLTa^BpI nv •UO^IOQ •bsSb^ 'IBiideo 'saiBtaaj -saiBK TBlox 's:}naiDqeiiqi?)B;i o loO'oooooosoejo o t- o ffl t- *o a» o 1— • o> C3 0» ; ^OtusiOi— lolr-t-^ 3 = o" : CO o'er -^lou^ei Oi t-rH0»O i-T ■*" i-i" WOC43!"#«CQ0OM t^coaacoou3cooco>a I— ISOeOi— iW<00>i-IO»fl I 3 « 0> O 00 M W^Ot »0 t^OOdCDrH £- "i^ !>. » i-^ t> i-i m u3 eo eo CQC0<0ttU3OC^a> : CO i-HO CO t s I .so ■''* 2 w " " 1.9 g.S3 « « 3 £ S 53 s UNITED STATES. 621 The carpet maBufacttire is mainly in the States of states manu- Connecticut, Massachusetts, New York, and Pennsyl- carpe"s!^ vania, but has spread into New Hampshire and New Jersey, and has begun in Maryland and Wisconsin. There is also a small hand loom establishment in the district of Columbia. Pennsylvania, chiefly Philadelphia itself, manufac- tures two-thirds of the ingraia (Kidderminster) and nearly all the Venetian carpets, and in value manufac- tures nearly one-half of the total. Massachusetts manufactures two-thirds of the Brussels and one-half of the tapestry carpets, whilst New York makes nearly all the felt carpets. It will be noticed that a beginning of 500,000 yards of jute carpets had been made in 1869-70 in Pennsylvania. I understand that at the present time all branches of the carpet industry are flourishing, that the manufacture of jute carpets has much increased, but that the printing of felt carpets has not always been able to maintain itself against foreign competition. 257. The followiag Per-centage Table will represent Per-centage the more important relations of the carpet industry in '''^*''^*' 1869-70 :— Table (R). m to tM 1 o i ^ CO 1 o "73 m o p. o o *= ^ ®-i O^ o i o o O ea •-'-5 o o rt g ^.■s i-H ti K S f-l »H " 5* t. o u Ph No. pmUh (S (S fSd fS"S Horse-power 100 68 .. Combers ^^ 2i If , , , , , , ,, Sets of carders . . )3 6i a ,, , , , , , , Hand looms 107 733 , , , , , , , , Power looms „ 39 267 , , , , , , , , Hands . . . , )J 326 216 100 , , , , Capital .. dols. 340,000 221,000 103,650 100 45 57i Wages .. ti 126,000 86,300 38,758 37 153 20 Materials lbs. 1,050,000 718,000 322,350 312 140-0 180 Primary materials dols. 324,000 222,000 99,200 96 43-0 55 Other materials , . >t 42,600 28,800 13,050 12i 5-6 n Products . .. lbs. 756,000 516,000 231,500 216 100 129J t3 ' • . dols. 484,000 399,000 179,850 173 77-8 ■ 100 As regards capital it may be observed that per 10- capital. horse power it is about 34,000 dollars or 5,667 i., and per 10 looms (hand and power ia the proportion of 3 to 1) is [353J 2 TJ 622 UNITED STATES. about 22,000 dollars or 3,634Z. The investment per hand is about 1,036 dollars or 173Z. Productiveness As regards the productiyeness of capital, 100 dollars °^' produces annually 216 lbs,, of a yalue of about 173 dollars. It will be seen that nearly aU the hand looms are in Pennsylvania. They are reaUy in Philadelphia, where a large house carpet industry exists. It is usually believed that the number of hand looms in Philadelphia, even after the revision which was made, is rather under stated than over stated. A loom, meaning three-quarters hand and one-quarter power, produced in 1869-70, 5,160 lbs. of carpet, or in a year of 300 days 27 lbs. a day. 258. The average annual actual wage per hand is, as was to be expected, higher than in other branches of the industry, and reaches 387 dol. 58 c. or GM. lis. This shows in a year of 300 days 4iS. S^d. a day, or rather over 4djd. an hour. I am not acquainted with the pro- portion of men, women, and children in a carpet mill, and cannot therefore separate this average into averages for each of these classes of operatives. The efficiency of the labour may be thus stated : one • hand works up annually 3,224 lbs. of materials, of a value of 1,000 dollars or 166Z., into 2,315 lbs. of carpet, worth 1,798 dollars or nearly 300Z. 259. The average cost of producing carpet in the aggregate for the United States in 1869-70 was as follows : — Primary materials Other materials Labour . . Remainder EfiSciency of labour. Cost of production. c. m. s. d. 43 = = 1 5h 6 6 2i 16 7 6| 12 5 5 Value at mill . . . . . 77 8 2 7:3 For various states. I have arranged in the following Table similar items for the States named. UNITED STATES. 623 Table (S) . 3 09 . i s n U "d ■s Nature of Production. 11 i M 1 c. m. c. m. c. m. c. m. 0. m. Pennsylvania 36 7 1 6 12 4 14 3 65 fths in ingrain, ^th in Venetian. New York 48 4 6 8 25 8 9 90 fths in ingrain, ^th in tapestry. Massachusetts , . 51 10 6 18 5 8 8 99 7 J in ingrain, Jth in tapes- try, ith in Brussels. Connecticut 40 5 19 19 6 13 92 1 ■fjyth in ingrain, yiyth in Brussels. New HampsMre \ New Jersey J 56 5 1 50 24 8 5 1 040 Ingrain. N.B. — " Remainder" includes general expenses, insurance, taxes, interest, depre- ciation, and perhaps profit and some commission. Pennsylvania produces clieap carpets of tlie less expensive kinds, and the cost of production there would "be less than elsewhere, but the reasous for some of the variations in this Table are not obvious. As regards the ■small proportion of 1 c. 6 m. for " other materials " in respect of Pennsylvania, it may be suggested that part of what is elsewhere returned under that heading is here to be found under "remainder." Moreover, the hand looms cost nothing in fuel for power. 260. After due consideration of all the proportions, I think it may be fairly assumed that the average for the United States represents the average cost of producing ingrain carpet, both power and hand loom, in the United •States. The cost of manufacturing 1 lb. of carpet would thus cost of n be for ingraia about Is. 2d. The cost of manufacturing fecturing, other kinds of carpets would bear about the same relative jiroportion to this as it would in other countries. It will be noticed that the value of the carpets has Compari; increased in dollars siace 1860 fully 150 per cent. The following comparison of the proportion to value of production of each item of cost of production is interesting : — risen with 1860. 2 u 2 624 UNITED STATES. Primary Materials. All Other Materials. Labour. ■ General Expenses, &c. Total. 1870 .. 55 1 7i 20 19^ 17J 24i 100 1860 .. V 56 100 2. The Woollen and "Worsted Manueactuees in Detail. Construction. Increase in cost of build- ing. a. Construction. 261. The remarks {vide paragraphs 69 to 75) in respect of cotton mills apply equally well to wooUen mills. It will, however, be of interest to reproduce the following Table from Dr. Young's pamphlet, as showing in detail the increase in cost of building and in price of a certain class of sites since 1860 : — UNITED STATES. 625 .tCQOomt^QocooicoooiCMCieo^-^ooin ^■*OCTSi«I>.Ol'^OOSCOQOOO»-H!NCOOOt>. CO Tt<, Oi l-H Tt< t>. .n ri Oi o to CO .-.CO 1 11 ■OO'.ooi>.coincs-Tfc^ -JcocotoorHco(^^(^^T^TJ^THFHoob(Ncoo 'OrHinCMinOi-HO 1— 1 rH CM T3 . (N O O O O O ift O CO O CO CO O CO -* »n C4 CMOOOOOCOOO § . UtI«»0. o CO !>• in ■ cs) CO o o o Tj< CO ^ HcNp-HWirscoM' « 'rHCOCOinirtrHMcO s ja a a i-i CM CO 1 o ga K l-H • OOOOOOOOCO OCD'*>nOC0OCM OOCOOOlOrHCO E3 no UCOOOOON^O'"!^ .Oi-HOOrHCOCOl'^ ,inocoooooi>.co S CO X "* <-< '^ rH in CO .»no -noocoincjO'* tJ 1 r tJOOOCOOuOrHi-H , ^ ,iOOSOi-HrHOOCM , ,rHC0OI>«Q0in01CTJ -H CO X ■« f^ CM CO o t* '^ • • • ■<* CO o o o CO in • PcMCMCOuOtP-"* CO •CM'^rHcn.OrHCMO l-H r-i I-i '^ &D ^ a rH S .oot^coooin ot>iiot>i-*t>-in OOQOOOOCMO i 1— 1 to CO « Oa CO CO CO CM in CM . , . CM CO O O r-1 CO t^ , X ■* O '^ in O CO CM • ■ • ^ CM O O O CM CM • OrHCMCMCOCOCO CM .ocMcooi-^ocoin ■rH>-Hi-HO r-t rH rH CO .ininoooococoinoocoiMiooscoio o CO o CO N "n •a . ^' w CO in o o CO o cj> o t^ o o o l-H cq Tt* I-H .-H , , , o 00 ■=> *n CM -H H ■S m ^ 00 -jini-Ht>.coincMCMt>.co<>-incoooo'^in • RcMCMOlineO-* rjf - • • OS CD CO rH CM rH 1*. ■ '^00 m p— I .23 ^ ;2 1 r-4 I-i Tt* H™1 o . .oooooooin^inocMt>.'*cooin OS t>. rH O O CO ts ^1 ^-1 Q CO O O CO O (N O O in CM !>. 00 O m O ■-< CM O 'ri< , -:(rocOincoo:i01rHcO'*cO-*i-HOOO(MCM • P_,_^CM^CM CM _ ^ ^ ,—1 !>, ,—1 00 rH in • • ■ -^ 00 ^ O rH O i 1^ ^ cq .COOI^inO-*.o-TPinTj*oosi-Hin'*ini-Hi-icMini;ocs X«^0^"'f'50iin'T^C0C0C0e0(MOOOCMCiO PcM.-iCMCOCMeO in , CO t>. Tt* CO ^ >* t-* CO ' rH CM O CO * Cq CM -H '3 3 S r-H r^ CO ^^" ll £.1 .. OCMCMOiOt^CMincOt^'^cOOOOi-^CMOin *n rH lo CO to o in o ^ g? CO OOi-. '^ CM CO , in Tf< !>. ■+= -** > CO -T-rtirHinTtiOOi-lCMCM-^rttt^^OOO-HinO M^r-lF-4CO^(M CO ■ O rH O "^ • rH rH O s 1— c l-t ^ ? 1 .moocoocO'*ocot>.ooii-Hoooo"rj*in ZJTpcot^oociinco 1 CO CJTj.;3i— 'i— iCOiOCO-* !NrHinOiOcoo-.oo<-Hininincococoo^iOTjtoin 3CMl-^'rHCOCO'0-HCO [3 t—i ucMOininooooscMwcqcoinooi-Hc^iocM -.coinincocO'^i->.in 1— I •I— 1 S3 oi QO -JcOCM"XlCOi-HCMCMCM"^incOi— lOOOCMcOO H,_(r-i^COCMCM CO SO-^OCOCMrHrHO II p-H I-i CM m -ftNHN^M ■H T3 =" .ooinooinoomcoocMincDooin cm o o in o CO o Cj— 1 bo S ■s 2 OS CO ooot^iniocMcooi-Hooos-^oooco .in . . O lO CM . (>. CO t-N. O « .. -s CO X'-O-*000DCM-*CMC0in'*r:f«CMOOOr-H 'o M^i-ipHCMOJCM CO in OS o r-( CM o M '? eo e -M CM 31 O • oooocoococom'^oooTHoinm -^ in o in ,-( -^ _i ■a 53 P3 l-H CO CO UCiOOOOOmOOii— (t^-^OlT^OOCOCM ,cO -: O O CM 00 !0 OJ rH CM CO « OJ ^ O O O l-H -o Qi-HnHnHi-Hr-*.-H ^ , , CM CO I-* ^ IN. CD m ■ - CM CO CM * O rH C UP l-H E ^ ^ ^ o " « 'ba •''•'•'*''''•*'''*'• d I t s N 'O • o O 1 1 s II ■ ■ '1 ■ ■ ■ mm m o 1 1" 1 = .1 = III ^2-2^S| Cja .3 fl =J „ .. o -,aDcicM^°°^ ■ ■ ■ 13 ■ • ■ a 3 626 ■UNITED STATES. "Si CO CO i-H . .- o ej CO CO CO t^ CJ-^O ,Or-tt>.QOCO qOO '-^i-hocooo incoooNcOeocorteoeOcorH rHr^eo©. rH l>* -H rH rH O rH rH O ' Ohio, Missouri, and Illinois. CO QO 1-H -^H O 00 CO O *>. O ^O _Or- lOSCQCO X ' O • -^ rH O eO CO P. ,-1 rH © in CO !>- in © © © Th 00 rH CO , CO CO Ti< in "* © • »0 O^ O O CO OO srt O O CO IN O CO IN O © © 09 1— I CO 00 I-H eO rH !>. t>. CO O « u ,o kOcot<«iOOin • -O O OS © O (M Til ■* t^ CO -* rH !>. CO rH CO © rH rH ^ I-H - O OS VO© • if3 rH © CO CO P rH ■ rH in t^ © in © © © 00 rH rH © ■«* «M CO ■* (N -* © T*( © CM CO • O in CO 00 1— i . — 1 eO rH »o O © © wc^© ,coco-n<©© v©o ■00©©OStJ< © in N O © rH in t>. CO *^ 00 « , rH rH i-H CO rH © • 00 . ift © ^ CO CO © Cit^© ,tn in 04 rH lO , CO CO '^ *>. m o " in -^ © in t>. •^ CO © CO CO CO © in CM © in' 1^ t-H CO 00 _. COCO - »« in CO eo' 00 © '^ CD l>i 00 rH in 04 . rH I-H rH CO W O • © OS CM CO CM t«. rH CO © CO r-i a> C^ rM <0 ■ CO 00 I-H . -^ CO O P3 CO © © «m© ^OrHI>.©© -r © © • CO rH © CO © W i-H rH rH c^ o CO in t^ © CO © CO CO © • CO © »>. CM CM *>. CM CO © CO CM © CO CM © •a 1 I-H . © ■* r-l rH © rH OS in t-CO© '.-^©rH •©© ©j>.©©oseo w rH r* CO in in 00 (N ^ CO C4 rH I-H (N r^ 1-^ O : Connecticut and Rhode Island. OS CO 00 I-H jc^co eocMinifi)© «CO© ^pHrHOOOllO n rH -rH rH Tj< CO ^ Ti< (S in rH 00 © «3 rH -^ , CO CO CO t^ - a> o CO CO rH O CO CO © CO (N © o r-* CO CO rH . © ■rt< in 1(5 t>. © 0-^ • (N © • in CO © in -i* CO rH CM CM rH r-i : Maine and , New Hampshire. OS CO CO I-H D. c. 45 06 15 00 1 15 75 ©©© © © 00 © CO o © in © CSl © .© (N rH CO ■-* © © CO © UN© CO © t^cO . , • o © ©*-.©© ' • ^ O CO © CO © lO coo. 00 lO t^ © CO , M rH rH *^ rH 00 rH rH r-N 00 p> ■4J g' +5 1 ^ § It u.^ © CO S .a l-t fi rH o © U) 00 1-^ ^ .g 1 TJ cd 1 S" s Ti 9 :a s .a ^ d ". UNITED STATES. 627 It may be fairly inferred that the increase ia the cost of constructing a mill is not less than the 88 per cent, above mentioned. To a certain degree this increased cost could under other conditions be dimraished. 262. The cost of a woollen mill varies much. A Cost of, in large number of the mills have been bought by the '""''^^" ""'i^- present owners at less than cost price, in some cases as much as two-thirds less. To a certain extent this may likewise have occurred to some of the incorporated com- panies of whose mills the nominal capital is stated. Subject to this remark I can quote the following instances of nominal cost of nulls, includiug circuiatiag capital. capital. (1.) A fine mill employing 4,000 hands, 400 cotton looms, 368 worsted looms, and 450 woollen looms, has about 300,000Z. capital stock. (2.) A woollen mUl employing 120 hands, 47 looms with 3,280 spindles, has about 26,000L (3.) A worsted mill employing 360 hands, 330 looms with 4,080 spindles, has about 42,000Z. (4.) A broad-cloth mill, making a large variety of goods, employing 815 hands, 230 broad looms with 16,400 spindles, has about 130,000L (5.) A carpet mill employing 1,450 hands, 290 power carpet, and 76 lasting looms, has about 350,000Z. Other similar instances could be quoted, but this will suffice as mere indications of the requisite capital in the United States. It has been stated to me that a wooUeh mUl can be put up and fitted here for about the same money as in England, but it has less machinery for the same pro- duction. A worsted mill, as much of the machinery comes from England, and no great economy of machinery over England is obtained, costs more than in England. The cost of a woollen mill may be estimated at, per Total cost of set — mill. Dols. £ For land and mill and village ., 10,000 = 1,875 For machinery, power, and sundries 8,700 1,857 Total ., .. 18,700 3,732 The cost of a worsted mill of corresponding capacity might be taken at the same rate as above for land and buildings, and at about 40 per cent, above English prices 628 UNITED STATES. for macliinery. In a first-rate woollen mill the cost would he fully 25 per cent. more. Some mills have cost even 50 per cent. more. Plant. I n preparation. Scutchers, &c. In caruing. b. Plant. 263. There appear to be no such great differences between American and English woollen plant as between American and English cotton plant. In the Preparing department, Goddard's burring picker or devil, with its second cylinder, is Hkely to supersede many other similar machines. It is said to be very good for burry wools. It delivers the wool half combed, but does not dispense with the usual carding machines. It is said to save 20 to 30 per cent, on the operations it performs, and does better work than other pickers. The general opiaipn seemed to be that in burrers the Americans were ahead of the English. The American Sargent machines seemed to be used. His wool washer with four bowls can wash and rinse 6,000 lbs. of wool in the grease in a day, and requires less power than a 42-inch hydro-extractor ; and two of his hot-air wool dryers, 9 X 20 feet, will dry that quantity, or at any rate 5,000 lbs. of it. The Sargent burr picker was seemingly as much used as any other. It has fluted rollers in front. The main cylinder makes 1,200 revolu- tions per minute ; and, if run at 1,500, it will pick 4,000 lbs. a day. 264. In the Carding department, Earl's oiling ma- chines are worthy of notice. Oiling at the first card had been already practised in England, but Mr. Earl in 1868 patented a preparation of oU, borax, and water, and a machine for applying it at the first card. The prepara- tion is said to save a half of the oU previously required. The carding machines are said to be similar to the English, with the almost universal addition of the Apperly feeder, which saves the labour of a boy and does the work more evenly. The cards usually have jigging rollers to make the yarn more compact. The Apperly feeder is well known in Europe, and need not, therefore, be described. Its use, except on the finisher, has in the United States been objected to by some manu- facturers. At the first breaker card a "Bolette" feeder is sometimes used. In worsteds the newest comber has UNITED STATES, 629 not yet been introduced. For carpet yarns a cheap comber and carder in one is used. 265. In the Spinning department the bobbins vary in spinning. from 240 to 300 per jack, but jacks of 240 seem to be generally used. The Sawyer spindle {vide paragraph 77) is used in worsted spinning with the same advantages as in cotton spianing. These may be thus stated : twice Excelsior as much yarn per horse-power as the common spindle ; ^p™*^'^- steady running at 25 per cent, higher speed, with 33 per cent, less power than the common spindle. In spinning No. 12 worsted it ran 5,100 revolutions. It has worked up to 8,000 with efELciency, and will revolutionise -worsted spinning. The Kilbourn self-operating jack, of American invention, has superseded many of the best English mules. In one of the best and largest mills I saw a room full of discarded English mules of the most approved pattern of six years ago. The following details respecting the Kilboum jack are from the wool manufac- seif-operating turers' " Bulletin," for a series of which I am indebted ^^''^^' to the courtesy of the secretary, Mr. Hayes. Mr. J. Earle (in March 1869), of New York, " desired to call the attention of the meeting to a self-operating jack, recently invented by Mr. Kilbourn, which the com- pany with which he was associated had in operation at the New Brunswick hosiery mills. The yarns fitted for hosiery were the most difficult of all others to spin, as they were required to be very even, and yet to have as little twist as possible. Their mill had made use of the English mules (Lapham's) which he understood to be the best mule of that class introduced into this country. But they had found a difficulty in adjusting the English mules to the different kinds of yarns to be spun, and the , varying mixture of cotton with wool required in the hosiery manufacture. The self-operating jack which had been recently tested at their establishment, is an adjust- ment applicable to every jack in the country, which, in. fact, converts the jack into a mule. The adjustment is very simple, taking up but very little room. The economy, as compared with ordinary jack-spinning, was very great, but further experiments W^ere necessary before he could make precise statements upon this point, although he was convinced that the saving produced by saving by. this invention would be at least 40 per cent, of the cost of spinning. 630 UNITED STATES. " Its advantages over tlie English mule consists in the facility with which it can be adjusted to any draft required ; the draft in this machine being governed by a cane instead of by a scroll, as in the English mule. With this machine any thread could be spun which can be spun by hand. The cost of the machine, as fixed by the machiae-makers with whom arrangements had been made for constructing them — Messrs. Cleveland and Bassett, of Worcester; Davis and Eurber, of North Andover; and Eurbush and Gage, of Philadelphia, — would be 200 dollars, fitted to the jack. The royalty Cost of. charged would be 60 cents per spindle. The cost of the English mule (Lapham's) is 7s. lOd. per spindle in Eng- land, in gold, with a duty of 30 per cent. " Mr, Dournes did not agree with Mr. Earle as to the difliculty of spinning weak fibre with the EngKsh mule. The Lapham mule is the only one which wiU spin shoddy. " Mr. Earle expressed the opinion that, even if new jacks were to be constructed, the combination of this machine with them would make the cheapest and best mule that could be obtained, but that "it was the only one by which the old jacks could be converted into mules. There were from 10,000 to 12,000 jacks in the country ; and by the application of this machine, which could be done very cheaply and with great facility, the whole system of spinning could be changed, and all the advantages of mule spinning obtained without throwing out the old machinery. "The President remarked that, according to the statements made, the important feature of this machine was its adaptation to hand-jacks, so many of which were in use in this country. This feature made the improve- ment one of peculiar interest to American card wool manufacturers. " Mr. Oakes observed that he had no doubt that self- operating mules, or jacks, would spin better and more economically than can be done by hand. As to the facility with which weak fibre could be spun by mules, he would mention a curious illustration which occurred to him on a recent visit to Dewsbury, in England, one of the great seats of the shoddy manufacture. He was in the yard of an extensive miU where the spinning of shoddy yarn was effected by the English mules, and in UNITED STATES. 631 conversation with, the head of the establishment, when a bale of wool was drawn into the yard. The manufac- turer asked, ' "What have you there ? ' 'A bale of wool,' was the reply, ' which I was directed to bring here.' * Oh, no,' said my friend, ' you must be mistaken ; there has not been a bale of wool brought here for fojir years.' This illustrates two facts : first, that the weakest fibre can be spun in tbe English mule; and, secondly, that sboddy goods are made in England without the slightest admixture of soimd wool." 266. In a letter to the Association, ia October, 1869, Description of. the inventor said : — " This self-operator is compact, yet much less com- plex than the ordinary mule-head. It is well and sub- stantially buUt, occupying a space of but 30 by 80 inches on the floor, and 16 inches in height, and it requires no extra room outside of that used for any jack without this attachment. There are no reversing motions, and no ropes nor clutches are^ used, and but few change-gears required. Eurthermore, it can be attached to any jack now running without cutting or damage thereto, and it is confidently believed that, for making any yarn drawn between rollers and spindle, there are no motions re- quired for obtainiag the best possible results, both in. quality and quantity, which are not provided for by this arrangement. "An experimental machine was applied to a 240- Trials with, spindle jack in the mill of the New Brunswick Hosiery Company at New Brunswick, New Zealand, in March, 1868. This has been running most of the time since on merino and all wool stocks, of various grades and mix- tures, spinning therefrom yam from 4 to 8 runs of soft and medium twist. In one case, all-wool yarn, 6j-run, was required from stock made up altogether of ' skirt- ings,' ' seedy necks,' and ' burry fleeces.' It was first tried on English mules with a spinner accustomed to them, and he being unable to make yarn satisfactorily either in quantity or quality, the same roving was changed to the self-operating jack (240 spindles), and on it spun well, made good yarn, and was easily attended by one boy. " The first machine built for other parties was put up in the mill of the Bankin Knitting Company, Cohoes, New York, in June of this year, spinning from merino 632 UNITED STATES. and all wool stock from 3^ to 6 run yarn with very satisfactory results. Since then they have been put up in several of the other mills at Cohoes, also in Philadelphia and in Philmont. The last one started was on a new jack at the works of Messrs. Davis and Purher, North Andover, Massachusetts, spinning all wool warp yarn from roving obtained from a neighbouriug flannel mill, with results even more satisfactory than with the experimental machines. "It should be remembered that no one but the inventor fully understands, at the outstart, all the details of any new machine. In this case, as in most others, from the want of skilled labour, the first machines were not always properly started ; but in every instance, so far as I have heard, where the inventor has been able to give a machine a reasonable amount of oversight in starting, the result has proved satisfactory both as to quantity and quality of production, and at a considerably reduced cost for labour, and the testimony received is unanimous that by this attachment yarn can be better drawn than it is possible to do it by hand." Another self- 267. In addition to the Kilbourn attachment, another attachmfnt. American invention, the "Brothers" attachment, for transforming hand-jacks into self-operatiag jacks, has found some favour. The following particulars of it are from the " Bulletin" of April 1870 : — " At the request of some practical manufacturers, we recently visited the mill of the Merchants' Woollen Com- pany at East Dedham, for the purpose of observing the operation of several jacks furnished with ' Brothers' ' self- operating jack attachment, now owned by Messrs. Grant, Werthen, and Rankin. This invention, designed to render jacks self-operating, was made, it appears, some two years since by Messrs. Oliver and William Brothers, of Burlington, two practical hand-spinners, who appreciated the disadvantages inherent to the method of operating jacks by hand ; and, while working at their trade, conceived the method which finds its practical embodiment in this machine. It would really seem that an important problem as regards the spinning of yarns has been solved, and that the dependence on that class of operatives Imown as hand-spinners, from which wool manufacturers have suffered so much incon- TJNITEB STATES. 633 venience, is at an end. The first machine, we are informed, was put in operation in the Burlington "Woollen Mills, Burlington, Vermont, in December, 1868, and is still used. " In the same mUls there are now thirteen machines in operation, and others are heing attached as fast as the orders can be filled. " The principal parts of the machine are the bobbin- Description of. builder, the quadrant for wiading, the draft for drawing the yarn, the scroll for taking up the carriage, and the backing-off machine. The entire machiae weighs about 1,000 lbs., and is attached to the back of the jack-frame and to the front of the carriage. The application to the jack is easy, and requires no change in any part of the present structure of the jack. The machine, it is said, can be put on in. thrfee days by an ordinary machinist. " The advantage claimed for these machines, and as Advantage of. far as we could judge quite apparent, is the increased production of yarn at a decreased cost. The increase is from 20 to 50 per cent, in amount, according to the different grades of yarn spun, while the cost is more than one-half less than when the jacks are operated by hand. " The overseer, an intelligent spinner, who had charge of the room, and who had watched the operation of these machines for several months, gave us as the result of his experience: — " ' That the automatic attachment will do more work and better work than the hand-machine; two of the former accomplishing the work of three hand-spinners. " 'That by the machine every thread is stretched alike, and every portion of the yam uniformly twisted. " ' That ten more runs can be put on a filling-bobbin than by a hand-machine. " ' That the bobbin are wound with mechanical pre- cision. " ' That the yarn can be pieced up without stopping the machine. " ' That more spindles can be put upon the jack. " ' That the labom' of tending the machine is such as can be easily performed by women and boys at low rates of wages." 268. "The following estimates have been made to Saving by. 634 UNITED STATES. show the saving accomplished by these machines : — ^With the attachment, the cost of labour is from 3 dol. 50 c. to 4 dollars per week, the machine making from 450 to 500 runs per day, with sis run-yam filling. Hand-spinners are paid 58 cents per 100 runs, and can do from 300 to 400 runs per day. At this rate, the saving in. labour alone is more than 10 dollars per week on every machine, the increased number of spindles and the superior quaHty of the work not being taken into consideration. The complete machine can be furnished for 350 to 450 dol- lars, according to the size of the jack and the number of spindles, royalty included. It is asserted that at these rates the machine wUl pay for itself in nine months, or thirty-five weeks." In weaving. - 269. There seem to be "some new forms of spooHng and warping machines. In the weaving department of worsted mills the new Orompton loom is paramount; and it is said, with seeming reason, to be the best worsted loom in the world. In carpet mUls the weU-known Bigelow Brussels and other looms of American inven- tion are to be seen. The beam and carpet-roll of a Brussels loom are sometimes placed below the floor, in order to gain space for more looms. I beg to refer the reader also to the corresponding sub-division on Plant in respect of cotton machinery. The Jaques shuttle, patented in 1870, appears to deserve mention, as offering advantages over other shuttles. Indeed, a large number of minor inventions might be mentioned if the scope of this Report were more specially technical. In finishing. 270. In the Finishing department, it was stated that the newest English gigs paid for themselves in a couple of years as compared with the American gigs. Eouget's patent double-cylinder longitudinal gig was introduced in 1869. Ladd's napping machine has already been referred to under cotton. It only remains to mention that the Winsor tentering and drying machine is in extensive use. Its advantages are : an even tenter to aU varieties of goods ; economy in room, only 8 feet square on two floors being aU that is required for a machine drying 2,000 to 2,500 yards a day; easy and rapid adjustment from three to six quarters or any desired width ; and the small amount of power and of steam required. In hosiery, &c. In regard to hosiery and looped fabrics, it may be noticed that the stocking and other rotary knitting ■UNITED STATES. 635 frames, except tlie jacket frame, seem to be made here, and of the American pattern introduced into England. There are several of fifty-six threads. Stockings are sometimes knitted ia the piece and cut into shapes by hand. Some of the machinery in woollen and worsted MacUnery mUls, except the engines, burrers, jacks, Orompton, partly English. Bigelow, and some other looms, and some finishing machines, seem to be either of EngKsh pattern (fre- quently an English pattern improved by American inventors), or of both English pattern and make. This is, however, a large and important exception. To quote Mr. R. W. Robinson, in the "Bulletin" of Equal to any. December last, "the machinery used in the United States is equal to the machinery of any other country, and the men who operate the machinery are as capable and understand their business as well as the men of any other country." 271. I have been favoured by the courtesy of an Estimate of eminent manufacturer with the following estimate of cos* "f plant. ten sets of woollen machinery of American pattern and make : — Memobandtjm of Machinery for a lO^set WooUen Mill, Dols. £ s. d. 1 Blue vat 150 28 2 6 4 Dye tubs, at 75 cents each 300 56 5 1 Wool dryer 300 56 5 1 Extractor for wool 350 66 12 6 1 Wool scourer . . 1,500 281 5 1 Burr picker 1,000 187 10 1 30-inch ditto . . 210 39 7 1 Wool duster . . 85 16 18 9 1 Waste ditto 65 12 3 9 1 Willow 115 21 11 3 1 Indigo grinder 200 37 10 10 Sets cards, with power cylinder an( i clothing, at 1,955 dollars 19,560 3,665 12 6 Appleby feed for 10 sets, at 400 dels . 4,000 750 1 Card grinder . . 85 15 18 9 1 Ditto 55 10 6 3 1,050 Spools, at 50 cents 525 98 8 9 300 Spindles for set, 3,000 spindles, mules, at 4 dols. . 12,000 2,250 1 Banding machine 40 7 10 4,500 Bobbins per set, 45,000 bobbins at 10 mills 460 84 7 6 636 UNITED STATES. Dols. £ s. d. 1 Spool splitting machine . . 75 14 1 3 4 f looms per set, 40 | looms at 425 dols. . . . 17,000 2,187 10 Equipment for same, at 50 dols. . . 2,000 375 2 Dressers, at 350 dols. . . 700 131 5 4 Spoolers, at 65 dols. 260 48 15 2 ^ Shears (Parks and Hulson), at 900 dols. . . . 1,800 337 10 1 Hydraulic press, with pump . 1,600 300 100 Press plates, at 1 dol. 60. c. 150 28 2 6 1 Steam brush . . 360 67 10 4 f double-acting gigs, at 300 dols. . . 1,200 225 3 Rotary fulling mills, at 450 dols. . . 1,350 253 2 6 1 Extractor for cloth 350 65 12 6 1 Flock cutter . . 450 84 7 6 2 "Washers, at 200 dols. . . 400 76 1 Cloth-drying machine . 1,500 281 5 1 -1 cloth winder . . . - 100 18 15 Hand tools, furniture, and apparatu s 5,000 937 10 75,225 1 14,104 13 9 Cost per set. Self-acting mules. This shows a price of about 11. 4s. lO^d. per set in a 10-set mill of the hest macMnery, It is, however, to be recollected that prices are just now higher than their normal rates, in consequence of the increased cost of iron.* This 10-set machinery would produce daily, in staple fancy cassimeres, 12 to 12^ ounces for three-quarters yard wide goods, from 1,150 to 1,200 yards. It would require 100 horse-power to drive it. 272. The Bridesburg self-acting mules, I may add, produce in ten hours — 10 run yarn or 53-^ cuts or 16,000 yards j hard shawl tvfist 1| runs or 2,400 yards per spindle. 10 „ 53^ cuts or 16,000 yards; medium twist 1| runs or 3,000 yards per spindle. 5 ,, 26§ cuts or 8,000 yards; medium twist 1| runs or 3,000 yards per spindle. 10 „ 53^ cuts or 16,000 yards; filling 2i% runs or 3,500 yards per spindle. 5 „ 26-1 cuts or 8,000 yards; filling 3J runs or 5,000 yards per spindle. And on mules ininning en coarse yarns for carpets, &c., the production taken from the average of a month's work, viz., on — &^ run or 3i cuts or 1,050 yards; hard twist 2^ lbs. or 2,500 yards per spindle, the gauge of spindles 2| inches, if „ 5 cuts or 1,500 yards ; blanket filling 2^^^ lbs. or 3,400 yards per spindle, the gauge of spindles 2i inches. * November 18, 1873. — Prices have again declined to former, and lower than former rates. — J. P. H. G. UNITED STATES. 637 At the last moment I have been favoured by the Excelsior ring Bridesburg Manufacturing Company with the following °p"""s- particulars of the Excelsior ring spinning frame. The spindle weighs 4 ozs., and is a straight spindle with positive driving to the bobbin, thus insuring more uniform twist in yarn, and obviating the difficulties attending a taper top spindle, with the peculiar top to their adjustable ring, travellers as fine as 5 naught can be safely run at 9,000 revolutions on -^ inch rings. Their patent self-oiling loose bolster lets the spindle run at the minimum of power, "as at any inaccuracy in weight of the bobbin or yam the spindle finds the centre of gravity fi-om the point of the step." And they claim that this frame will spin more yam than any other now in use, with less power per spindle. I beg to append also their particulars of trials with this spindle, and I regret that I have not yet been able to obtain any account of trials in worsted spinning. [3531 2 X 638 TJNITBD STATES. ifl . . . o o 1— 1 * ' " CO ^ in g .... . . . o OS *>. o o o r-l CO • • * • . . 04 !>. CO CO in -p o § ■* -* ^ o •a. • * OiOi . . 7H ^ OS tC * »o in 'lO -^ ««-< o .cp t'* , CO iO in o CO CO J^ O , in . IN cq 1— 1 r- 1 1— 1 1—) i-H ew O d '^ CO CO CO CO 0000 1 >< 1— 1 1— 1 i—l 1— ( CO CO CO CO : : : : I '. '. '. V u r— 1 r— ( t. tJ T3 e.ca :; s S.S " 5 qa "p^ ^0. en •V a 5.0 Sj -fl S jH -s es, he comm Sawye ISxceli -ir| S8^;3 is 4 3 ,, 16 ,, If 5. 7 , , 42 50,000 ,, (all wool). 6 7 .. 50 „ (fine). 7 7 2,400 .. „ (union). 8 13 .. 70 200,000 Cassimeres. 9 8 4,500 40 (broad) 150,000 », 10 10 ,, 71 , , It 11 4 , , 18 , , „ and tweeds. 12 4 32 , , „ union. 13 3 1,600 , , , , 14 1 240 , , , , „ and flannels. 15 12 . , 68 250,000 „ and cloths. 16 12 , , 44 45,000 „ and beavers. 17 2 , , 6 , , „ blankets, &c. 18 1 240 , , , , „ satinets, &c. 19 4 1,800 ,, , , „ and flannels. 20 6 , , 36 , , „ and blankets. 21 1 285 , , , , „ flannels, yam. 22 2 r 12,783] 12 •• Doeskins (black). 23 43 worsted 1 63,748 L cotton J •• •• Delaines and cassimeres. 24 4 924 1 1,760 12 narrow 8 broad 1 60,000 Horse blankets, and tweeds. 25 5 33 Shawls, cassimeres, &c. 26 3 1,200 , , . , "Kepellants, Melton, &c. 27 10 3,120 , , , , Shawls. 28 10 4,860 , , Shawls. 29 25 , , 125 250,000 Blankets, flannels,tweed, &c. 30 4 1,200 , . 50,000 Carpet yarn. 31 1,696 , , 100,000 Carpet yarn. 32 2 680 , , , , Beavers (union). 33 6 1,760 , , , , Doeskins and cassimeres. 34 3 720 ,, , ^ Shirts, hosiery, and drawers. 35 7 6,000 , , , , Cottonade and cassimeres. 36 10 ^ , 60 150,000 Shawls and cassimeres. 37 10 , , 17 knitters , , Hosiery and zephyr worsted. 38 5 , , 36 • • Satinets. 39 f 83 wool "1 \ 8 worsted J 41,560 811 .. Shawls, cloths, &c. 40 , , 2,250 171 braiders ,, Alpaca braids. 41 2,000 100 •• Damask reps and worsted yarn. 42 r 8 (with 3 1 '[scutchers) J ■ * ' ' • • Shoddy and flocks. 43 / 7 (with 2 I "_ scutchers)/ ■■ •• •• Shoddy and satinets. c. Power. Power. 274. With regard to power, as there is in this respect little difference between cotton and woollen mills, I beg to refer the reader generally to the corresponding subdi- vision under cotton for remarks as to water versus steam UNITED STATES. 641 power ; to cost of power ; to boilers, engines, shafting, &c. ; and to the manufacture and cost of engines. The horse-power to machinery may he stated to be Horse-power about 10 per set, or 100 horse-power for a fully equipped ^" ^*'' mill of 10 sets. The cost of steam-power would be from 85L to 95Z. per horse-power for a year of 300 days of 11 hours each. This, in a 10-set mill of staple fancy cassi- meres, would represent f d. per lb. of product.* The required power is reduced by the employment of the Sawyer spindle and the self-operating jack, and by various economical devices. And it is still more reduced by the improved Sawyer or " Excelsior " spindle in worsted mills. d. Raw Materials, 275. In reviewing with as much necessary detail as Raw materials. timp and space will permit, the complicated subject of wool, I shall follow the admirable article of Mr. Hayes on the " Wools of the United States," and make such additional remarks of interest as I have been able to gather from the " BuUetin," which he edits, and from other sources. " In the United States domestic wool is the very importance of foundation of the wool manufacture. Very careful ''<""«^«'= ^°°'- statistics, collected in 1864, show that, of all the scoured wool used in the woollen mills of the United. States, over 70 per cent, was of home growth. Of 4,073 sets, 2,171 were employed wholly upon American wool. Of 931 mills, 767 used domestic wool principally, while only 46 mills in the whole country used foreign wool alone. No foreign wool was used in the Western States. As the number of mills at the West has greatly increased, while the use of foreign wool in them is still unknown, the proportion of domestic over foreign wool used in all our mills has, without question, greatly increased. The new mills which have sprung up at the West and in the interior will obviously use domestic fleece, on account of the saving of transportation, the facility of selection and purchasing, and the opportunities for effecting saving to both manufacturer and wool-grower, in the exchange of cloth for wool. But there are general reasons which lead all manufacturers who can use American wools to prefer them. Our machinery is adapted to the working of our * This cost would be rather higher on the basis of the second calcula- tion in Part II, sub-division c. 642 UNITED STATES. Good qualities of. Superiority of flannels from wool. Of delaines. Of shawls. Wools required by fabrics. own wools, and our best skill, founded on an experience of their distinctive characters, is exercised in manipu- lating them. Although we may import limited supplies of foreign wool, an ample domestic supply would regu- late the cost of imported raw material. " The preference of our manufacturers for domestic wools is founded upon a recognition of their good qualities. "When we speak of American wools we refer to the predominant class, wool from grades of the merino with the native or the degenerated English breeds, characterized by a greater or less predominance of the merino blood. There are certain qualities, common to the varying breeds, which are due to the influence of our climate and soil, but especially to the system of keeping, consequent upon the thrifty habits of our people ; and the most influential feature in their keeping is the fact that our sheep are uniformly and liberally fed, and hence produce a uniform, sound, and healthy fibre. Thus, the most characteristic qualities of American wools are due to the moral and economical habits of our people. There are other special qualities due to the blood at present predominant, that of the so-called American merino. " In a class of fabrics entering more largely, perhaps,, than any others into general consumption — that of flannels, the superiority, due principally to the adaptation of the common wools of this country, their strength and admirable qualities, is so marked as almost to exclude the foreign flannels. American fancy cassimeres com- pare favourably in finish, fineness, and strength with those imported. Our delaines, owing, again, in a great measure, to the excellence of our merino combing wool, surpass the fabrics of Bradford at the same price. The excellence of American shawls was admitted at the Great Exhibition at London. 276. " Common flannels involve a very important consumption of wools, from the coarsest, common, or native to medium merino wools; opera flannels, from fine to the very finest wools; blankets, from the most ordi- nary Mexican to noils (the shorter or refuse fibres obtained by the process of conibing the best combing wools) up to medium merino wools ; also the shorter wools of English blood, such as the Down and Cheviot wools. Shawls, the principal varieties, embrace all grades of merino wool up to pick-lock, some special UNITED STATES. 643 varieties being composed of worsted, combing wools, felts, generally tbe lowest grades of wool, but some varieties of felting, sach. as piano and table covers, medium merino wools. Knit goods, sucb as knit shirts, vests, sMrts, drawers, cardigans, hose, involve a very important consumption of wool, from the lowest to high grades of merino, certain fancy varieties, composed of worsted yarns, requiriag English combing wools. Fancy cassimeres, occupying a prominent place in the list of fabrics, require all grades of merino wool, prin- cipally the medium ; meltons, all grades of merino wool, without burr, principally medium ; overcoatings, such as beavers, moscows, esquimaux, medium to finest grades of meriao wool. Por aU mixtures of wool with shoddy, the best and longest merino wools are now regarded as most profitable, for the reason that they " carry " more of the short fibre of the wool substitute. Thin wool coatings require from medium to the finest merino wools ; fancy ladies' cloakings, the finest long merino wools, and, in some varieties, mohair, or the wool of the Angora goat; gentlemen's worsted coatings, the finest long merino combing wools. For certain varieties of delaines, coburgs, and cashmeres, ladies' dress-goods, with cotton warp, medium long merino wools are used; for Cale- donian ladies' cloakings, a limited use is made of mix- tures of fine long combing wools and English or Canada combing wools ; for serges, moreens, alpacas, Italian cloth for linings, mohair lustres, lastings, damask for furniture, for furniture covering, curtains and table- cloths, reps for furniture and curtains, webbing for reins and girths for horses and for suspenders, bunting for flags, military sashes, picture-cords and tassels, clouds or nubias, B/istori shawls, braids, and bindings, long English combing or Canada wools are required ; for the warps of ingrain two and three-ply carpets, the long carpet wools of Cordova and Chili, unsuited by their coarseness and unequal diameter for dress-goods, are employed, the short wools for filling, and for the cheaper carpets the short and coarse Mexican and Texan wools ; for Brussels and tapestry, and Brussels and velvet carpets, the long Cordova and Chili carpet wools are used, for the coloured yarns the warp being of linen ; for the whites or very light shades the best English or Canada combing wools. 277. "As to what wools should be grown, if a majority What wool required. 644 TJNITED STATES. of the clotli mamifacturers in the United States were asked tMs question to-day. they would answer, ' Give us the wool produced by a cross of the full-hlooded merino with a full-blooded South Down,' which would be a typical medium wool. A larger supply of wools of that class is in demand than of any other just at this time ; but the production of such wools would be impracticable as a system in our ordinary methods of sheep hus- bandry. The manufacturers of classes of dress-goods into which delaine wools enter have the same views. Mr. Walworth, the intelligent buyer of wools for the Pacific mills who is an authority, says : — " ' The wool-growers of this country have run too much into the same quality of wool, viz., about three- fourths blood. Now, there is a certaia amount of this quality of wool needed, but the markets have been flooded with this one kind, whUe medium or one-half blood and one-fourth blood wools are absolutely scarce. . . . There is a great demand for medium or one- half blood wools, and I think it will be a permanent demand.' " Still, he adds the very sensible advice : — " ' Let the farmers grow a greater variety of wools, and not all just about the same quality.' " On the other hand, the manufacturers of opera flannels and doeskins complaia that they cannot get in the country any stocks of the superfine wools of Saxon blood, the type of which was the old wool of Washington County, Pennsylvania. They cannot get them, simply because they cannot afford to pay the high prices necessary to encourage the culture of these small-sized and comparatively unproductive sheep. It is absurd to say that the finest wools cannot be grown in this country, especially in Virginia and East Tennessee, Intermediary "While the demand for medium wools for some years to come is likely to be the most pressing, the remunerative demand for the very fine wools last spoken of will probably even diminish. There is likely to be an increased demand for a class of merino wools which Mr. Sanson, the scientific writer on sheep before referred to, calls intermediary wools, quite different from our medium wools. He observes that 'between the common and fine wools, or more exactly between the fine and superfine wools, a new quality has been introduced wools, UNITED STATES. 645 witliiii a few years wMcli is of great interest in France.' This new quality is that of the intermediary wools, differing from the fine in reality less in their diameter than in their length. This wool is not only very im- portant for clothing purposes, as the improvements in power-loom weaving necessitate the use of this long wool for warps, but for combing purposes, and especially for a class of goods known as 'novelties.' Olothing manufacturers in this country have but recently appre- ciated the qualities of these intermediary wools, for to this class belong principally the Australian and New Zealand or Tasmanian wools, heretofore almost unknown, but which have been very largely imported by our manu- facturers during the last year, notwithstanding the high duties. The fijaeness, length, soundness of staple, and remarkable freedom from grease, have brought them into deserved favour. Manufacturers have thus a new standard of excellence in wools, and American wools having the qualities of this standard cannot fail to be ia demand." " But," continues Mr. Hayes, "it is very far from improvement our purpose to suggest a general modification in the of^erfnoes. qualities of the characteristics of American fleece. The great mass of these American wools suits our machinery and prevailing fabrics. The demand for the interme- diary wools is as yet comparatively limited, but will increase with the expansion of our fine merino combing- wool manufacture, which, for the production of all wool dress-goods, did not exist four years ago, but is now successfully inaugurated, as the adaptation of these wools for both clothing and combing purposes is better appre- ciated. As these wools are in so high demand in Europe, the demand must become more extensive here. " With regard to the Erench merinoes as a source from which to infuse new blood into certain of our flocks, we are aware that the greater number of those introduced into the country a few years ago were regarded with but little favour, as they were selected solely with reference to their excessive size, without regard to other characteristics, their superior keeping and unusual care, while at that time there was no demand for their peculiar qualities of fibre. " With the new demand for long and fine interme- diary fleeces, the introduction of these regenerators, which have proved so efl&cient in Australia and Buenos 646 UNITED STATES. Ayres, might well be again essayed ; and if refinement is to be attempted with, this blood, that stock might furnish a better foundation for refining than the vigorous and productive American merinoes, which, with aU their excellencies, are still lacking in the fineness of fibre and exemption from excessive grease which characterize the French and Australian standards. Wool grown " It should be noted that Dr. Randall, the highest for weight. authority on American sheep-husbandry, denounces with great severity the breeding for yolk, although maintaia- ing that the American merinoes, when bred and treated judiciously, do not produce more yolk than is necessary for the economical production of wool, and declaring that there is no other national family of merino, and no other breed of sheep whatever, that can vie with the American family in the very great improvement in weight of washed or scoured fleeces within the last few years." Dr. B/andall says : — "This remarkable era in merino breeding, com- mencing in sound measures of improvement, but culmi- nating during the war in the excess which I have described, developed several fashions in breeding and management which were altogether new in the business. Quality of wool was little talked about. "Weight of fleece was the primary consideration, and it became the custom of many breeders to weigh their fleeces in the yolk, because, I suppose, it gave them an advantage over others. A rigid system of housing their sheep from contact with rain or snow the year round would preserve all the yolk in the fleece, and thus would add to its weight several pounds. The holders of the larger flocks could not do this without great inconvenience and expense. The former, therefore, were enabled to go into newspapers with far higher statements of weights of fleeces. Inasmuch as the system of housing and pre- serving all the yolk in the wool gave the fleece exter- nally a very dark colour, the colour soon became a prime necessity of fashion, and, as the weight increased, and the colour became darker with the yolk, the latter was as carefully bred for as wool. I have seen it HteraUy dropping from the fleece luider a hot sun." And he added : — "Another result has followed this indiscriminate ■UNITED STATES. 647 scramble for large fleeces. Those who have carried it farthest have usually considerably depreciated the quality of the wool. The finest fleeces are not generally the heaviest. The greatest combination of wool and yolk — however coarse, uneven, and even hairy the former — is what these extremists have looked for in their breeding rams ; and the progeny of such rams must, of course, partake of the same characteristics." 278. Mr. Walworth, the practical wool-buyer before Long wool referred to, after urging the superior profits of long- g^'"™s- wool production, says : — " Now, although it may be most profitable to keep combing- wooUed sheep, it wiU not do for every one to go iato it indiscriminately. Men who wish to have large flocks of sheep, say several thousand, or even a thousand ia a flock, ought not to keep these sheep, but will do better with the merino. Men living on the prairies ought not to keep them, for the prairies will not grow combing wool, but T think they should in many parts of Kentucky, Ohio, the hills of Pennsylvania, and New York, and in the best parts of Michigan ; and in particular I would suggest to those farmers who have now in many of these States coarse native sheep, whose wool is common, and does not yield much combing or delaine, that if they would cross those sheep with a Leicester or Ootswold ram — I like the Leicester best — in one year they would receive more than 50 per cent, for their outlay, for their sheep would be larger and would yield, probably, 20 per cent, more delaine or combing wool, which sells for more and sells quicker. Let them follow this cross up for a few years, and they might, with a very little expense, improve the breed of all such sheep. I do not recommend them to buy very costly rams for common purposes. Let men who make breeding a business buy the fancy bucks. " I would not recommend the farmers in the far West, or in very new countries, to keep these sheep, for in such places, the breed is apt to run out, and the wool becomes brushy and hairy, and of very little value. I think Michigan well adapted for delaine wools of the medium grades. In that branch I have always classed her next to Ohio. " Por the purpose of the worsted manufacture, the wool of all the English races above mentioned is desir- 648 ITNITED STATES. Mistakes in. Cheviots. Carpel wools. able, even the fleece of tlie shorter-wooUed Down sheep is well adapted for delaine tissues of the coarser texture at present in demand. The value of the Leicester race for the production of a higher quality of long combing wool, appears not to have been duly estimated in. this country. Leicester wools, pronounced by experts to be equal to the best English, are produced in Ohio, on the borders of Lake Erie. " Eew owners of long-wooUed flocks in this country appear to understand, practically, the difference between fine wool and long wool husbandry, forgetting that it is the destiny of the merino to be kept for wool, of the Leicester to be killed for mutton, and holding the mutton sheep upon barely thriving rations for the pur- pose of shearing once in each year. " There is another class of wools occupying a position between combing and clothing wools, or adapted to special fabrics both of worsted and cloth, which, in view of the new developments of sheep husbandry and wool manufacture in this country, deserves more attention than it has yet received." " The new fields of sheep husbandry, to which public attention has been recently called, comprising the vast natural pastures between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast, the valleys and plains bordering upon the great Sierra Nevada, where the dried grasses, becoming perfectly cured uncut hay, furnish perpetual resources for winter grazing, and offer inducements for the trial of the Cheviot race. If mutton production is to be at- tempted in this region, the Cheviot race is worthy of the first attention on account of its hardiness and working qualities. If the cost of transporting live sheep by rail- road from the base of the mountains to the Chicago market — as given by Latham, 75 cents per animal — is not underestimated, the Scotch system of breeding upon the mountains for fattening upon the richer lands of the prairies might be profitably pursued. 279. " Carpet wools. — The questions connected with the production of carpet wools a,re of less interest to the American wool producer, because the culture of the animals producing these wools is not likely to be pursued as a final object where any purpose is entertained of improved sheep husbandry. Where stocks of these animals are kept, as the Mexican sheep of Texas, New UNITED STATES. 649 Mexico, and Colorado, they are regarded valuable princi- pally as a basis of improvement by means of higher types, and their wools as points of departure to be hastened away from as rapidly as possible. " If protecting duties on carpet wools were necessary to foster an existing and important national husbandry, which is essential to the public subsistence, to the general agriculture of the country, and to the utilization of the vast portions of the public domain, as is the case with clothing and combing- wool husbandry, then those duties would be as justifiable in one instance as in the other ; and the same ultimate compensation would be made to the consumer by the reduction of prices caused by domestic competition. But duties equal to those on clothing and combiag wools wiU not now, nor probably for generations to come, lead to any extensive production of carpet wools in our country, because it would cost as much or more per lb. to grow them as to grow the former, and the aggregate value of wool and mutton would be less. " The statement that it is not desirable to introduce into this country the races producing carpet wools demands som.e slight qualification. In sections of the country, like Texas and New Mexico, where the Mexican ewes, descended from the smaller and shorter-woolled Spanish chourrs, can be cheaply procured, it may be desirable to import them for crossing with merino bucks, as the cheapest and most rapid means of obtaining abundant stock ; but in that, the ultimate intent is not to obtain a carpet but a clothing wool. Special qualities, besides the fleece, in races producing carpet-wools, and special adaptation to peculiar districts, may recommend their introduction. Such an exception appears to be the Karamanian sheep of Asia Minor. " The space allotted to this Article will not permit As to washing the discussion of the important practical question of the ^°°^^- preparation and putting up of wool for market ; but one question connected with that preparation is too important to be passed by in silence ; this is the feasibility of dis- pensing with the washing of sheep prior to shearing. The testimony presented in the discussions at the Syra- cuse convention shows that the requirement of this pre- liminary washing, made indispensable by the present demands of the majority of manufacturers, is regarded as a heavy burden upon the wool grower. In many dis- 650 UNITED STATES. tricts, as in Texas, this washing is impossible, on account of the want of convenient streams of water. In others the process is unhealthful, both to animals and men, from the coldness of the streams ; and everywhere, as ordinarily practised, it is injurious to the sheep, from exposure to wet and cold, and the rough handling to which they are subjected. Mr. Montgomery, the late president of the Ohio Wool Manufacturers' Association, expresses the objections of wool-growers to washing sheep as follows :~ " It has been asked why we wish to sell our wool in an unwashed condition. One reason is, that we don't want to subject our sheep to the labour of carrying ten or twenty pounds of wool, soaked with water, and to consequent discomfort and illness, for a week, more or less, until it gets dry. We don't choose to dress them in wet clothes for that length of time. Another reason is, we want to shear our sheep early ; and if we under- take to wash them we cannot do it, for the water is too cold both for the sheep and the men early in. the season. A great many men in. our Western country cannot go into the water ; one is subject to rhumatism, another to ague. A great proportion of our men are foreigners, raw men, not capable of handling sheep skilfully ; and then the cost of getting it done is more than the increased cost of getting it to market with the dirt stiU in the fleeces. " Notwithstanding these sensible objections, the ma- jority of manufacturers, at present, prefer to purchase wools in the washed state. The principal reasons for this preference is, that it having been the custom of the country to put the wools in market in a washed state, the manufacturers have been accustomed to form their judgment as to quality and value upon wools in this condition." Merinoes. 280. The American merino wools are divided into pure, half-blood, quarter-blood, and common stock. There is some difference of opinion as to whether the Australian wool is, taking all things into consideration, Ohio. superior to the finest Ohio. This wool is clean and strong and has a long staple. But the farmers prefer growing coarser qualities at a larger profit, and it is possible that the Australian wool wUl maintain its posi- tion. Moreover, Australian wools are properly washed UNITED STATES. 651 and are fairly packed. In Ohio tlie flocks are frequently from 1,000 to 6,000 sheep, and the merino fleece which averages 3 ^ lbs. may weigh 8 lbs. Indiana supplies the tub-washed wool. This has aU Indiana, grades mixed up and cannot be sorted. It is sold as a whole, and is used for hosiery, blankets, &c. The farmers' families take their wool washed, scoured, and scutched, to a cotton mill to be carded, and pay a toll in wool for the carding. This toll is sold to the dealers, and thus the wool finds its way into the market. Having much good wool of a light and feathery kind in it, and being very clean, it acquired so much reputation that, for 1 lb. of really tuls-washed, fifty of a counterfeit are in the market. Illinois sends two distinct classes of wool. The North iiunois. sends good merino wool, but the south Sends an inferior merino wool. This difference arises from variations in the ground and soil and from less careful collection. Iowa wool is better from the undulating country. lowa. But the Par West, as a rule, does not seem to have the west. soil and other conditions to produce the best wool. Western wool has tender spots, and is apt- to deteriorate even from the best stock into carpet wool, probably in part from irregular feeding and want of care. The Colorado wool, for instance, is full of kemp, and can only Colorado. be used for blankets and carpets. Mississippi wool, too, is coarse and kempy and full of burrs. Virginia supplies some excellent wool of a pinkish Virginia. colour. Tennessee used to send very good wool before the war, but the flocks have to be re-established. Kentucky sends good \merino wool, sometimes hurry. In Kentucky too, Southdowns and Cotswolds are grown, Kentucky. furnishing long combing wool of good quality and mutton for the few. The flocks are small — 100 to 300 sheep, — can be housed, and are fed on com and hay. They could with care be raised in Ohio in small flocks. In the Middle States, and especially in New Jersey, Middle states. the rural system of wool growing as in England is practised. In the Eastern States the growth of wool is much the same in spite of the greater difiiculties. Vermont, moreover, is famous for breeding merino, and Vermont. Vermont rams are sent to New Zealand. 281. The following list of prices will show the relative Prices of wool. value of certain wools : — 652 UNITED STATES. Cts. per lb. 68 & 72i 67 69 55 72 60 75 62 Domestic Comeikg. Leicester washed Cots wold South Down Sweated pulled . 67 George William Bond and Co.'s Prices Current of Wool. Boston, January 15, 1873. Gold at 12 per cent. Premium. Domestic Fleece. Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Virginia— XXXPitlock .. iA-X^ •• •• •• •• aa I blood 2»»»" •• •• ■• .. Common and ^ blood Tub-washed Michigan, New York, and Vermont — Extra and above . . I blood 2)».. .. .. .. .. Common and \ blood Tub-washed . . . . ■ . . Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, and Missouri — Extra and above . . f blood "a*''' •• •• •' "• Common and \ blood Tub- washed Domestic Ptjued. Extra . . . . , . Super . . No. 1 . . No. 2 . . No. 3 . . Mixed "Western . . California — Unwashed fleece, in grades „ „ coarse and burry . . Fall clip, in grades Texas — Unwashed fine fleece „ medium fleece . . „ burry . . . . . . . . Canada — Washed combing fleece . . . . Clothing . . . . . , . . Pulled combing sweated . . Tub .. 55 70 57 72 62i 67 55 70 57 72 57A 55 45 65 75 50 25 30 50 52^ 40 30 23 521 33| 40 37i 40 30 331 80 70 70 70 85 72i 72| 75 75 85 70 75 UNITED STATES. 653 Domestic Combing — (continued) River Plate — Oordova wasted , . San Luis and Santiago washed Unwashed Cordova Banda Oriental . . Entre Eios Saxony and Merino unwashed No. 1 „ . . No. 2 „ . . No. 3 „ . . No. 4 and Mestizona „ Common Corrientes Pulled, XX „ X ::} Merino unwashed Mestiza Common, Valparaiso Smyrna — Washed common „ fine . . . . „ black End grey Unwashed common „ fine . . „ black and grey . . Limed white „ black and grey Washed Salouica. . Unwashed „ . . Cape of Good Hope — Unwashed fine ,, medium „ Low and Kempy Pulled extra „ super Australian — Port Phillip, unwashed Sydney ■ „ Adelaide „ New Zealand „ Russian — Donskoi fleece „ autumn . . „ lambs . . „ black and grey Crimea limed white „ „ black and grey „ washed white „ black and grey Syrian — Washed Unwashed Cts. 40 24 42 36 33 20 25 80 75 • 33 26 37 40 30 20 23 18 30 22 n* 30 !■ 38 n* 65 60 60 50 45 n* 30 20 40 24 per lb. @ 42 26 47 42 40 23 27 85 80 40 28 40 43 33 23 25 20 35 25 33 42 68 65 65 60 50 33 23 45 28 [353] * n denotes no stock — prices nominal. 2 T 654 Molia'r. UNITED -STATES. Domestic Combing- -(continued). East India — Cts. per lb Fine washed white 55 g) 60 „ yellow 45 50 Commoii washed . . 35 40 Coarse » • • 28 33 Medium grey and fawn 20 25 Coarse black and grey 15 18 Mixed unwashed 20 25 California. California produces good wool, and it is expected that the Pacific slope will eventually send large quan- tities of tlie finest wool to the East. Texas is said to have lands suitable for a similar production. A small quantity of mohair is produced in Kentucky, I believe. The imported mohair sold last autumn at 1 to 1| dollars currency, or 3*. 9d. to 4s. 8d. per lb. But, according to a review of Dr. Latham's well-known treatise ia the " Bulletin " of 1871, " it is evident that the culture of the Angora goat, although it is capable of being made the most profitable of all lanigerous animals, cannot be undertaken with the prospect of immediate profit — as the increase of flocks of pure blood must be necessarily slow, and the sale of bucks at high prices, for the avowed purpose of improving the common race, would be nothing less than fraud. But it is believed that growers of taste and wealth will delight in possess- ing these docile and beautiful animals in their original purity, simply as ornaments to their ranges ; and it may be hoped that 'the princes of stock-growing' on the plains may undertake the culture of this animal with the same pride which stimulated the noblemen of Saxony to improve the merino, and will attempt the acquisition of a new race in the same spirit of disinterestedness with which the author whom we have followed has become the pioneer of a new country." Shoddy. Shoddy is- manufactured, the duty having hindered the importation. NoUs are imported. Cotton waste enters into some fabrics as a primary material. The following is a list of prices for various kinds of shoddy in the Boston market : — Cts. per lb. -Soft woollens are still accumulating, and being offered at very low prices, at from Stockings and comforti r stock are offered at . . All wool clippings , , Card waste, all wool, fire, offered at 9 to 101 16 17 15 17 25 28 33 34 34 36 38 48 20 28 20 26 50 25 24 30 UNITED STATES. 655 Cts. per lb. Medium, at . . . . . . .. 20 to 24 Best hard ends, all wool, are the same as last report, at . . . . . . . . 30 32 Below we give the selling prices of standard aU wool shoddy, and those at which cotton mixed stock is offered : — All wool — Cts. per lb. Grey, mixed , . . . .. 38 to 42 Ked „ .. .. -- -. Blue „ White „ Cotton — Grey „ Blue „ Rod „ White ,, 282. Sheep husbandry may be divided into pastoral Pastoral wooi- and rural ; and if we look at the territory of the United fjnited^states. States, as a whole, for growing wool, we may fairly assert, as I judge from the opinions I can gather, that it is better fitted to produce short and medium wools than the finest felting wools or the finest combiag wools. Such wools are being gradually driven out of Europe by And mrai. the high farming on the rural system, and coiild be largely grown in America under the pastoral system. On the other hand, the conditions of a successful rm-al system exist, in New Jersey, for instance, and in course of time will cover a larger area. Pood and shelter determiae largely form and quality in sheep husbandry ; and it will be many years in all probability before the requisite care can be given at a profit to the growth of such wools as do not in themselves constitute the profit of the husbandry. Mr. Charles Merriman, at a meeting of the National Association in 1869, said : — " It is hardly fair to call upon raw recruits and young men when there are so many of their seniors present. But as it is the duty of the soldier to answer to the call, I shaU try and say a few words. Gentlemen have been speaking of directing the attention of farmers to the long combing wools. But I would ask the gentlemen who represent the Press not to forget that at present -nj^ths of the machinery of this country are not adapted to the use of the long combing wools, but require a short staple and a fine fleece for the fabrics which they can manufacture. 2x2 fine wool. 656 UNITED STATES. I suppose ttey coTild manufacture the old-fasMoned clothing, such as most of us are wearing; but that requires a short staple, the shorter the better, according to our experience, although I admit that there are many- manufacturers who will not agree with me in that opinion. "We find that it felts better and makes better goods. I feel that the character of our goods in the exhibition depends to a great extent on the character of the wool with which the goods are manufactured. They have all the appearance of the foreign goods ; but the feel is not the same, and that is because the wool is not right. The wool should be the fine Saxon fleece for making a good face ; and older manufacturers than myself will bear me out in that opinion. I'^eorease in "I kuow that such wool caunot be grown advan- tageously in the Atlantic States, or Pennsylvania, or Ohio ; bnt I have hopes that hereafter in Texas or California such wool can be grown. At present it does not pay, and the amount of fine wool grown is gradually decreasing. " In the remarks I made this morning about the tariff, I suggested that we want that wool at a price that will enable us to compete in our manufactures with foreigners ; not that I do not believe in protecting American industry, but I do believe in protecting American industry, but I do not believe in protecting somebody else against myself. I have such a regard for number one, that I prefer to be protected myself to protecting others against me. I think we ought to have those fine fleeces ; and if we can be assisted in getting them, we shall be much gratified. I do not think they can be profitably raised in this country. In the south- western part of the country they may perhaps raise fine fleeces; but probably the finest grade of wool is not made in this country at all. Certainly, there is not enough of it grown in this country to supply the mills I represent ; for there are not 500,000 lbs. grown in this country, and that is what those miUs require. I am assured by a gentleman whose hair is much grayer than mine, that the finest wool in the world has been raised ia Western Virginia; so that it can be done, although I think not profitably. And I hope gentlemen will not lose sight of the fact, in looking after the long combing wools, that for the great majority of the UNITED STATES. 657 woollen mills, wliich cannot use those wools, we need the short staple." The Chairman suggested that the President, Mr. Bige- low, had had some time to rest, and might be willing to offer some remarks. Mr. E. B. Bigelow said : — " I ought to express my acknowledgments to the gentleman in the chair for his kindness in relieving me from the labour of presiding over this meeting ; and, at his request, I will endeavour to say a few words in respect to the topics which have been presented for consideration this evening. " The combing-wool industry, and the coarse and fine grades of the card-wool industry, have been alluded to, and a question arises as to their relative importance at the present time. It is well known that the card-wool industry constitutes by far the larger part, probably four-fifths of the whole ; and of that, the extreme fine grade forms only a small per-centage. The combing- wool industry, as has been stated, has recently assumed considerable importance. The principal hiadrance to the further rapid extension of this branch of manufac- ture is the limited supply of raw material. Clothing wools, or card wools, as they are sometimes called, are produced in superabundance the world over, while there is a deficiency of long combing wools. There is nothing Combing wool that would give such an impetus to the manufacture of ^™'^''- worsted fabrics in this country as a full supply of home- grown long combing wool. Could our farmers, espe- cially on ,the Atlantic slope, near large towns where their mutton would find ready sale, be induced to engage more extensively in 'the production of such wools, I am sure they would find it a source of imme- diate and permanent profit. It would also be a national benefit, not only by furnishing the raw material for an important branch of manufacture, but by supplying a much needed article of food." 283. Mr. Edward Harris, in his pamphlet, stated thaf there was no production of such fine and long wools in the United States of importance to manufacturers. On the other hand, the want of the long combing wools is generally acknowledged, and it is im.possible for the American manufacturer to be at present withoiit such wools of Canada and England. The Leicesters deterio- Leicesters rate ia the United States, but may not, under better '^^'""'"'■a's- 658 UNITED STATES. in wool growing. Transporta- tion. management, do so. " The wool," says tlie " Bulletin " of 1872, " from a Leicester sheep that has been in the United States two years, is generally harsher and leaner and worth much less than it would have been if the same sheep had stayed in Canada or England. Now, this wiU not always be so, for growers will yet learn that these large sheep need more to eat than the small merino, and their food should not consist of Indian corn, but they should have some roots, mangel wurzel, and oil cake. When sheep are fed on com they are too hot and feverish, and the wool becomes harsh and brittle, while a . proper supply of roots and oilcake, with other food, would produce soft, soimd, and elastic wool." One great disadvantage to the manufacturer in the native growing of wool is that there is no stabUity in it. If a farmer do not get as much for his wool as he wanted, or even reasonably expected, he will usually kiU off the sheep and start on another breed, or in some other busi- ness. There is seldom any permanency in the raising of sheep. Then, too, the farmers are sometimes wasteful, and hence increase the cost of producing the wool. It is rare to see, for instance, the corn-stalks dried for fodder ; generally they rot away on the ground. A minor dis- advantage is the ravages by dogs among the flocks. In some Eastern States this disadvantage is lessened by a system of fines out of which to pay damages. But in most States it is an evil of some magnitude. Transportation does not seem to bear as heavily upon wool as upon some articles. The following rates have obtained, for instance : — Per lb. c. d. From Ohio to PhiladelpHa . . . 1 0-45 „ Iowa „ , 2i 1-125 „ San Francisco to New York . , , li 0-675 3 J J, Boston . I3L 0-495 Purchasing wools. In purchasing wool there is not the same certainty as in cotton as to what is bought. There is no uniformity in the wool, or even in each parcel of the same class. It is packed for weight, and it is often grown for weight and not for quality. It has, therefore, to be opened out and separated by the wool dealer, as customers must see what they buy. Unless it has to go a long distance, it is packed loosely and delivered to the purchaser. UNITED STATES. 659 The mixture of wools is an important matter, and in Mixture of this respect the American manufactm'er would seem '^°°^^' to be hampered at several points. Por instance, Mr. E. R. Mudge writes in his Report : — " The German and Australian wools exhibit the highest existing type of the product of the merino race.. In their culture, weight of fleece is never sought for. The efforts of the grower are devoted solely to producing fineness of fibre and shortness of staple. Without the comjnand of wool of this character for filKng, it is hope- less to attempt the manufacture of the best face goods, such as broadcloths and doeskins. Our foreign importa- tion of German cloths is mainly confined to the black broadcloths, cassimeres, and doeskins made from these wools. There is no difiiculty in commanding the skill '^p^ admission required for this manufacture, as is evinced by the goods exhibited by Mr. Slater, of Rhode Island. All the difliculties of manufacture can be surmounted by the importation of German workmen. Several hundred sets of machinery could be occupied here in the m.anufacture of these goods, demanded for home consumption. The warps, which could be made of such American fleece as is now grown here, would take up two-fifths of the wool required for this manufacture. This would be so much added to the demand for this character of wool. The relief afforded to the manufacturer, by being able to vary his fabrics, would diminish the competition among those compelled to manufacture only one style of goods, and, giving more profits to the manipulator of the wool, would secure better prices to the wool grower. The great problem to be solved in the clothing- wool industry in this country is — how these wools shall be secured. The wool growers assert that they can be grown in this country, and this is by all means the most desirable source from which they could be obtained. The success in certain districts ia Tennessee, Pennsylvania, and Virginia, in former times, is an assurance that they can be grown. The present supply is altogether insuflB.cient for any progress in the fine-cloth manufacture. It is gratifying to learn that importations are being made of the best Silesian stock. It is the duty of the manufac- turer to encourage these efforts by discriminatiag in his prices for the finest wools. The growth of these wools is not a question of soil or cHmate, but of profit. If 660 UNITED STATES. these desired wools are more remunerating than others, they are certain to be produced. But the solution of the problem whether we shall manufactm-e fine broadcloths in this country depends mainly upon the wool growers. It is for them to decide whether or not these wools shall be grown here ; if not, whether they shall be admitted at a moderate duty. If the product of the finest wooUed sheep is too small to admit of profit in their culture, the only objection to their growth here, it is worthy of serious consideration by the great body of American wool growers whether their own interests, by the greater con sumption of wool, which can be profitably grown by mixture with foreign fine wools, would not be secured by admitting, at a moderate duty, the highest priced German and Australian wools, not including such as the mestiza, which compete with the wools grown here. Any move- ment for the development of this important branch of manufacture, whether by the growth of the desirable wools, their admission at a lower rate of duty, or by a higher specific duty upon extra fine wool cloths, must emanate from the wool growers, for it is better that the manufacture of the highest clothing wools should be abandoned than that the harmonious arrangements be- tween the agricultural and manufacturing branches of the woollen interest, so essential to its stability, should be disturbed." Mr. Grosvenor, in his " Does Protection Protect ?'' says : — Summary of " Nearly all the wool produced in this country is of the merino of medium grades, suitable for the manufac- ture of card-svool tissues, flannels, blankets, shawls, cloakings, satinets, and cassimeres. But of the fine clothing wools from which broadcloths and doeskins can be made, this country produces no supply. Of combing wool, that quality by which the vast manufac- ture of England is mainly sustained, a long wool neces- sary to the worsted manufacture, we produce no supply. So small is the quantity produced of either of these qualities, that we might as well not produce them at all. Neither have we Cheviot wool, a mixture of which gives their peculiar character to the Scotch tweeds, cassimeres, and coarser shawls and blankets. Nor have we those finest qualities of merino wool such as enable the French to excel all nations in dress goods for women.'' wools grown. UNITED STATES. 661 284. As regards the duties on wools, I append the Duties, classification adopted, and refer the reader to the list of duties in Part I of this Report :— "First Class. Clothing Wools. Classification •' of wools. "That is to say, merino, Mestiza, Metz, or Metis wools, or other wools of merino blood, immediate or remote ; Down-clothing wools, and wools of like character with any of the preceding, including such as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Buenos Ayres, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great Britain, Cianada, and elsewhere, and also including all wools not hereinafter described or designated in Classes 2 and 3. " Second Class. Combing Wools. " That is to say, Leicestershire, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, Down-combiag wools, Canada long wools, or other like combing wools of English blood, and usually known by the terms herein used ; and also all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals. "Third Class. Carpet Wools. " Such as Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually im- ported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere." It is obvious that to the extent to which such wools may be employed in the wool industry, the cost of pro- duction is thereby increased. The tariff was framed to protect the really staple American wool, by excluding the Mestiza wools, and to foster a native production of some other wools required by the industry. On the other hand, many consider that the admission of Mestiza wools would not injure the American wool grower, and that the production of the other wools cannot be obtained by tariff duties. In fact, it is sometimes held that the repeal of the wool duties would benefit both the manufacturer and the grower. I beg to append a Table of Shrinkage, for which shrinkage. I am indebted to the courtesy of a manufacturer and of a wool dealer : — 662 ■UNITED STATES. Table of Shrinkage. Waste. Future of wool. Beyond the Missouri. Fine American, washed „ unwashed California, unwashed Colorado, washed . . „ unwashed Per cent. . 45 . 60 . 70 . 25 . 40 The other qualities of American wools, with rare exceptions, as aboye — Australian wool Buenos Ayres wool , . . Cape of Good Hope wool Canada wools for dress goods English „ „ Carpet wools — South American Washed Russian, all washed. . Turkey . . Washed Syrian, Persian, &c. Washed Per cent. 55 to 58 58 to 65 62 to 68 17 to 20 18 to 20 50 20 to 30 8 to 20 50 20 to 30 50 20 to 30 The waste from scoured wool to cloth is usually taken at one-sixth. 285. As to the future of wool, it may be fairly asserted that the growing of sheep for wool wUl be gradually transferred to the Western Mississippi Valley. The Trans-Missouri region is thus referred to by Mr. Grinnell, of Iowa, when alluding to the Laramie Yalley in. Wyoming : — " I mention this valley because I examined it more carefully than any other ; but from what I saw and learned, I am satisfied a large part of the great central interior of this continent is of the same description of land. I cannot doubt that this, in a few years, wUl become the principal stock-raising portion of our country. Sheep can be raised at no expense except herding, and in some places the cost of cutting enough grass along the streams for hay, to feed a short time in the winter, while in much of this vast region, as I learn, sheep can be kept the year round in good order, without hay or grain, simply by grazing. I cannot doubt but in a few years wool wUl be produced so cheap, and in such quantities, that it cannot be imported from abroad. When our home supply of wool shall be thus increased, and tendered as cheap or cheaper than wool can be UNITED STATES, 663 imported, I cannot see why this will not become the greatest mamifacturing country of the world. With the cheapest wool in the world, and a vast supply of cheap agricultural products, woollen manufactories must spring up ia great abundance, and the United States will become exporters instead of importers of woollen goods. One result of this will be that a new and vastly increased market will be created for the agricultural products of the grain-growing States. The soil and climate is not adapted to grain growing, unless by irrigation, west of the central portion of Kansas and Nebraska ; hence the production of wool in the Trans-Missouri country will create a demand for agricultural products there, and manufactories will multiply to still increase the demand. "Already the prospect of sheep growing in this interior region is having its effect. In two years the sheep of Ohio have diminished 2,579,410 in numbers ; in part, doubtless, owing to the considerations I have named. It is, in my judgment, only a question of time, and that a few years at most, when sheep growing for wool will be transferred to this great central region. " With the vast product of wool that is soon to come from this great interior region, I believe too, there will soon spring up in various portions of the United States the grandest and most extensive manufacturing enter- prises the world has ever seen. All questions of Pree Trade wiU be settled in a few years by these interior sources of wealth." But the reviewer of Dr. Latham's book remarks : — " Still we cannot fully share with him his brilliant Rapid develop- hopes for the immediate future. The changes in industry, the transporting of flocks, the depletion of old States, and especially the increase by breeding, is a work of time. He allows but twenty years for Cheyenne, and a score or two of towns besides, each to be an entrep6t for a trade of twenty or more millions of lbs. of wool, and looks for the time when Denver and Greeley shaD be the centres of woollen industry rivalling those of Amiens and Houbaix. Before we can even hope for this, there must be absolute stability in our industrial legislation ; the question of the tariff must be divorced from politics. The American system must be felt to be as firm as the Rocky Mountains, before capital can be induced to embark in those vast manufacturing establishments of ment not so 664 UNITED STATES. our own, wMcli alone can fill the valleys of the mountains with sheep. It must be borne constantly in mind, notwithstanding our author's intimations to the contrary, that for many years to come the sole dependence of the American wool grower must be the consumption of our home mills. Even with an equality of natural facilities, the prices of labour, the high interest on capital, local taxation, and the general expenses growing out of the demands of American civilization, will not permit our wool growers to compete' with the producers of the southern hemisphere. It is alleged that the natural facilities of the plains are greater than those of Australia and the country of La Plata. It may be so, but . it is not proved. It is not sufB.cient to compare the statement of one traveller there with that of another traveller here. The comparison to be reliable must be made by thoroughly competent persons who Variety in havc visitcd both countries. It is a suflOLcient subject of iikeiy.°°' Congratulation, however, that nature has placed us on an equality with the most favoured countries in facilities for the production of this material so indispensable for the position which we aspire to as a manufacturing nation. "The sanguine expectations founded on the dis- covery, as we may justly call it, of the new field for wool production across the Missouri, must be partially modified by another consideration. It is anticipated by some that henceforth, tinder the stimulus of Protection, and with the facilities which the new region offers, the whole supply of wool for our manufactures will be obtained at home. This is hardly to be expected for many years to come, if ever. Even Australia, with its hitherto un- paralleled resources, produces but one kind of wool. The new country here wiU probably find it more profitable to produce similar wools — those of the merino blood, — which constitute at least nine-tenths of the consumption of our mills. The number of our mills will, doubtless, be greatly increased by the new developments, as well as the rates of consumption of domestic wool. But the very prosperity of our manufactures will create a demand for special varieties of wool which will not be produced here, for the simple reason that others can be grown with greater profit. No wise statesmanship advocates Protection to the extent of prohibition. The protective system, by increasing the wealth of the country, and UNITED STATES. 665 diversifying its demands, increases the power to import from abroad, as is so signally illustrated in this country at the present time under the operation of a well-defined protective policy; and a limited importation of wool from abroad, under a duty which will help our Customs revenue, is by no means inconsistent with the best interests of American sheep-husbandry."* e. Supplies, 286. "With respect to supplies of all kinds, I beg to supplies. refer the reader to the same sub-division under cotton for general information. Teasels seem to be chiefly grown ia the States. Since the part referring to cotton supplies was Extra cost of written, Mr.E. B. Bigelow has stated that the extra cost <='«'i *" East. of coal was 4 dollars (or about 15s.) per ton against the mills of such inland towns as Lowell at a distance from the coal-fields. He considered this extra cost to be equal to 1"17 per cent, on the capital of the mills at Lowell, which rate was about the same as that of the State and municipal taxation. The difference of 4 dollars was taken as compared with the cost of fuel at Newark, Trenton, and Philadelphia, and towns near the coal-fields of the East. This difference might therefore be taken as representing the advantage of the Middle States over the Eastern States in cost of steam-power. 28V. The oleine, which is now much recommended for use, costs 70 cents or 2s. I^d. a gallon. In the late Mr. E. Harris' estimates of the cost of oieine. manufacturing, " supplies, &c.," are taken at 6 cents, or suppUes, &c., 2f (Z. per lb. of 12 oz. cassimere. p^"" ^^• f. Labour. 293. In treating of labour in woollen and worsted Labour, mills, I purpose to follow the plan adopted in respect of labour in cotton mills, so far as the materials at hand will permit. And I purpose to give in some detail wages in Massachusetts and New England, and to mention here and there other wages in other parts of the United States as I may be able. Wages in the West are probably rather higher, and wages in the Middle States slightly . * November 19, 1873. — The winter of 1872-73 was so severe as to disappoint owiiers of sheep in the Laiamie Valley. In several flocks 75 per cent died. These bad winters occiu- once in every six or seven years. 666 ITNITED STATES. Massachusetts as standard. lower, than wages in Massaeliusetts. Wages in the South are usually less than in the North. But as the bulk of the trade is in the New England and Middle States, and as wages do not differ much from those in Massachusetts, I prefer to take the rates in Massachusetts as a sort of standard. It is, however, to be remembered that even in New England there are places in which the wages are on the whole lower than many rates I shall quote, especially in mills where the Oanadian-Erench or newly -arrived German immigrants are employed, and ia a few districts where the cost of living happens to be rather less than elsewhere. In woollen mills. a. Woollen Mills. general. In certain mills. Dr. Young^s Table for the United States in 1869. The average wage per hand per day of eleven hours in the woollen manufacture in general has been given at — D. c. s. d. For men . . . . . . 1 66 or 6 2| „ women . . . . . . 1 16 4 4| „ yomig persons . . . . 98 3 8 „ children .. .. .. 68 2 6i On another occasion it was stated as follows at — For men . . „ women „ young persons „ children The following averages of rates of wage in certaia mills can also be cited : — D. c. *. d. 1 57 or 5 lOf 1 04 3 lOf 83 3 H 58 2 ^ Youno" MUls. Men. Women. Persons. Children. d. c. s. d. d. c. «. d. d. c. a. d. d. c. s. d. 6 Flannel 1 86 7 1 23 4 7 87 3 3 64 2 5 4 Cassimere . . 1 60 6 1 27 4 9 94 3 64 52 1 \U 4 Cassimere and various. 1 65 6 2* 1 08 4 Oi 78 2 11 75 2 9* 1 Shawl 1 55 5 9* 1 11 4 2 1 15 4 Zi 67 2 64- 3 Satinet 1 67 6 3 1 15 4 3« 1 03 3 lOi 84 3 2 4 Various 1 80 6 9 1 17 4 4i 96 3 74 60 2 3 In the mills in the above statement the average wage to each person employed in each mill varied from 1 dol. 4 c. to 1 dol. 60 c. or 3s. lid. to 5s. a day. 294. As regards classes of work and the diiferent departments, I reproduce first of all Dr. Young's iater- estiug Table for 1869, which is said with a deduction of about 10 per cent, to be equally correct for 1872. UNITED STATES. 667 V a g I (Z3 .-a 1^ ja ^ H ■sBsaB3 pus 'VUlOX •nisaoosijVi. ■ORO pnB 'BnBipni ■OTUISII A -^ pUB ■BTUp.Tlj^ 'pnBiiiBji pUB "BTinjAijJsiraaj; •iggjaf jiig^ •ijnoTijoairaoo 'pUB^si gpoTi-g; ■s^^jasnqoBgSBK puG ojiqs "3 CI OS-* 00 ifloam OS -#os or-o# :eD ir-i : lacoo jcoo«Do cooo^GsiA :co ^■»P t*t>.cQ tn -SCO t^uscn t« ItOCDOCMCil :oooi-i t^USCtCOCCr-lr-l 00 ■* BO t-l:>t-.rH t-t^ tfoci atytci oosoeoosowoooci o«oo ^J u? ug \_^ l_^ ^ lO O os»o t-'*osOTjit-o t--*!:^ CMOOi asi>QOcoo us 00 0^03 ot-oo a OJt-dt^tot^o t^imo c»i>cooeo OOiO t-.-*t-^ 00t-.ciOi .(NOacO f5 . 2 . - • I'g - (U • .6 a o o £ : o '3 5 5psl a S.B S-i ^g £ s ^1 S-s « a3 03 _2 5.a5 11 668 TTNITBD JSTATBS. •pUBiSug[ I3A0 •i981 1? PTOTSna (0 08 'lop I 3JM) 6981 ■S.-s 8 a 9 m aOUSUSOS USCOCOlOClOa l5U3t010^C4USO 5coeoo»M iaTf(QO«ococot> « o tr- 1- ifi ec o ©i ■'oooiTHio o 0(-it>c» cot- jo 00 Ol (O t-tOi-HQO'^t-Oa t-^co 00 00 CS OS . OD i-i oa '^i u — .1-1 r-lr-I i-( I- t~-*eo C:iOaOOSt>U3QOU3 •^ocomoi O CM so r-H OS lO O uskao OlOOOO i-HOOOO ooo ooo SccMiisoi to OS -# OJ ■* OS 00 C^ioeo rHOSO»OS«) :oooo> CO ooo ^COOSmOO t>>CMAOSWtaV cO«DU -^COOr- «om ost-c 0i-*0 t-OOSt~iracoosii OOicso eousi-Hoi iOico-*30 eo'^oiooco'* : os-riieo t>OCM oo _Om : Jos ■* ■oOOOOlt— 1>.1000SUSOOCS t-'?" 00 t- 00 Oi CO lO 00 00 O I— i-iSOSt ■'cO-^.-Hi-t g eM0aOCT■ O oacc O so ■^ CO us r-^ OS ■^ 00 rH OOCOOOiO ^ia«o I llO rn ■ :3 : g, : M 'Si) is I y " .9 ' 'h'o'o : ; ^'2 : o -a : : : US » S B „ ?> "-S I ! .s5 a a s .a .a S -1 •a a fl i (a 5 » J. ■*^(o o ■-• ^, !§^ I UNITED STATES. 669 Its averages, reduced 10 per cent., would noAV be in Estimate fron sterling as follows : — ^°' ^^''^• Preparing — Woolsorters ' Woolvvashei's Dyers Overseers Carding and spinning — Pickers . . Carders . . Spinners . . Warpers and beamers Reelers . . Overseers Assistants Weaving — AVeavers Burlers . . Overseers Derssing and finishing — Fullers . . Dressers or giggers Finishers Press tenders Drawers . . Brushers . . . . Packers . . Overseers Assistants Engine room, yard, Sec- Engineers Mechanics Labourers and watchmen Foreman D. c. 9 75 7 45 11 20 16 59 35 50 10 10 85 45 17 33 9 74 10 45 16 10 8 00 7 30 8 75 8 25 5 55 4 50 8 00 17 62 10 00 11 40 13 60 8 90 13 63 £ s. cl. 1 16 6A 1 7 Hi 2 2 6 3 1 101 1 3 9| 1 7| 1 17 lOi 1 9 h\ 16 8j 3 5 7i 1 16 6i 1 6 71 16 81 3 41 10 7 41 1 12 1 1 10 111 9| 16 101^ 1 10 3 6 1 17 8i 6 2 2 2 11 1 13 2 11 9 295. In respect of the various departments the Wages by following statements are also offered : — departments. [353] 2 z 670 UNITED STATES. Range and Average of daily Rates in 42 Mills. Range — Average. Wool house — D. c. D. c. s. d. s. d. D. c. s. d. Overseers 1 50 to 3 50 5 74 to 13 n 2 47 9 3i Men 1 25 2 50 4 8i 9 44 1 80 6 9 Women 87 1 10 3 3 4 14 1 07 4 Young persons 85 1 00 3 2i 3 9 96 3 7i Children • • , , ^ ^ , , 72 2 8i Dye house — Overseers 1 50 6 73 5 7i 25 2i 2 98 11 2 Men. . . , 1 12 2 16 4 2i 8 14 1 45 5 5i Young persons , . , , 75 2 91 Dry house — Overseers 1 25 3 50 4 8i 13 14 1 82 6 10 Men 1 00 2 00 3 9 7 6 1 38 5 2i Children ,, .. 58 2 2 Picking room — Overseers 1 25 4 75 4 8J 17 91 1 93 7 2f Men 95 2 25 3 6| 8 5i 1 29 4 10 Young persons 46 1 28 1 8| 4 94 1 15 3 3i Children ,, .. ,, , 53 1 111 Carding room — Overseers 1 15 5 50 3 3i 20 74 2 69 10 1 Men 77 2 35 2 104 8 9* 1 41 5 24 Women 60 83 2 3 3 li 73 2 »i Young persons 50 1 28 1 104 4 94 80 3 Children 46 67 1 Si 2 6 58 2 2 Spinning room — Overseers 1 75 3 50 6 6f 13 14 2 44 9 2 Men 1 10 '2 75 4 14 10 Si 1 61 6 04 Women 66 88 2 5i 3 34 79 2 114 Young persons 50 1 12 1 104 4 2i 79 2 114 ChUdren 50 60 1 104 2 3 55 2 Of Dressing room — Overseers 1 50 3 50 5 74 4 8i 2 23 8 4i Men 1 00 3 00 3 9 11 3 1 79 6 84 Women 83 1 80 3 li 6 9 1 28 4 94 Young persons 60 1 00 2- 3 3 9 63 2 44 Childi-en 38 70 1 5 2 74 58 2 2 Weaving room — Overseers 1 75 5 00 6 6f 18 9 2 89 10 10 Men 87 2 67 3 3i 10 1 60 6 Women 77 2 00 2 104 7 6 1 19 4 54 Young persons 67 1 25 2 6i 4 8i 1 01 3 94 Children 38 75 1 5 2 n 55 2 OJ Finishing room — Overseers 1 50 4 50 5 74 16 104 2 63 9 104 Men 78 2 00 2 11 7 6 1 47 5 6 Women 42 1 50 1 6J 5 74 88 3 34 Young persons 50 1 25 1 104 4 8i 80 3 Children 46 75 I 8f 2 9f 58 2 2 Repair shop, engine room^ Overseers 1 62 4 00 6 6 15 2 77 10 4 Men 1 07 2 83 4 9 10 7i 1 84 6 lOf Women 75 1 90 2 9f 7 14 1 -.62 4 114 Children • 41 76 1 64 2 m 58 2 2 The average wages in these 42 mills, taking al classes together, was for — UNITED STATES. 671 Overseers MCQ.. Women Young persons Children c. 481 56} 04 83| 58i s. d. 9 3i 5 10| 3 lol 3 l| 2 2| The average amoimt per day paid to each person employed was in 1870-71, as shown by the pay-roll of 73 miUs, 1 dol. 20^ c. or 4s. Q\d. per day. 297. In addition to these ayeraee rates by depart- Y^gesby ment I can quote the following rates to classes of operatives : — In one mill — Sorters Washers and dyers . . Giggers Fullers and press tenders In another mill — Sorters Washer and dyers Dryers Scutcher minders Card strippers Spinners . . . . Warpers Loom fixers Weavers Fullers and giggers and dryers Shearers Press minders Labourers . , . . D. c. 1 62 1 25 1 00 1 50 s. d. 1 9 '2 75 12i 25 25 25 75 75 00 15 25 37i 25 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 50 6 6| 4 2| 4 U 4 Sl 4. 8i 6f 6| 6 3| H i The above are all men ; the women earn 70 cents to 1 dol. 15 c, or 2s. ^\d. to 4s. 3|cZ. ; and yoimg persons 50 c. to 1 dol., or Is. \^\d. to 3s. 9c?. The weekly rates paid in 1870 in the Pacific mills at in Pacific Lawrence were ia gold. mills. Children under 15 years Common ■workers in carding Experienced women in carding . . Weavers, female, average of plain and fancy woik Common men, mill labourers Spinners and experienced male , workers Dresser -minders, men, average . . Men, overlookers D. 1 3 5 6 6 c. £ 80 = 75 40 40 75 62 51 12 d. 6 7i ' 2 6 8 8 v., 15 12 2 11 3i 2" 298. I am enabled to give likewise the following Wages by average ranges and general averages of dailv rates ^^p^rtmentin Z 2 672 UNITED STATES. by department for 14 mills making goods as named below. These averages are averages of highest and lowest only, and are not proportionate averages, and are therefore somewhat higher than the averages of the 42 mills. Average Eanges of Daily Eates of Wages. In Cassimere Mills. Overseers. Men. Women. Ciiildren or Young Persons. Preparation and D. c. D. c. D. c. D. u. D. c. D. u. D. u. D. u. dyeing rooms — 1 .. 3 00 to 3 50 1 15 to 2 00 2 .. 2 50 4 50 1 10 1 90 3 .. 2 25 4 00 1 15 2 10 4 .. 2 00 2 50 1 20 2 00 Average . . 2 44 3 63 1 15 2 00 Carding room— 1 .. 3 00 1 00 2 25 , , 55 to 90 2 .. 3 50 90 2 20 70 to 80 65 75 3 .. 3 50 1 10 2 25 75 90 50 70 4 .. 3 00 1 00 2 00 70 SO 50 60 Average 3 25 1 00 2 18 72 84 55 74 Spinning room — 1 .. 2 50 1 00 1 90 , , . . • • . . 2 .. 3 50 1 00 1 70 , , , , 50 1 00 3 .. 2 50 1 10 2 00 , , , , 60 90 4 .. 2 15 1 00 2 00 , , , , .. ,, Average 2 69 1 03 1 90 •• 55 98 Dressing room— 1 .. , , 1 20 2 10 .. . . 2 .. 2 50 1 30 2 00 , , 50 1 00 3 .. 2 00 1 20 2 00 , , 60 90 4 .. , , I 50 1 70 80 1 00 Average . . 2 25 1 30 1 95 80 1 00 55 o'bs Weaving room — 1 .. 3 25 90 2 20 90 1 60 45 50 2 .. 2 75 1 10 2 30 1 00 1 50 80 1 00 3 .. 3 00 1 10 2 40 90 1 75 50 70 4 .. 2 50 1 20 2 20 1 00 1 60 .. Average 2 88 1 08 2 28 95 1 61 59 o'74. Finishing room — 1 .. 3 25 80 2 30 50 90 45 50 2 .. 3 75 80 2 20 55 90 50 60 3 .. 3 50 1 00 2 40 , , 60 90 4 .. 2 75 1 00 2 20 070 1 20 70 75 Average . . 3 31 90 2 28 58 1 00 56 69 in flannels. In Flannel Mills. Preparation and dyeing rooms — 1 • . . * 2 .. Average Carding room — 1 .. 2 .. Average 2 75 3 00 2 88 2 75 3 00 2 88 1 20 2 10 1 30 2 00 1 25 2 05 1 20 2 00 1 00 2 00 1 10 2 00 50 60 50 70 45 65 50 60 48 63 UNITED STATES. 673 In Flannel Mills — {continued!). Overseers. Men. Women. Children or Young Persons. D. c. D. c. D. «. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. Spinning room — 1 .. 2 50 1 50 2 20 , , , , 45 60 2 .. 2 25 1 30 2 10 , , 45 55 Average . t 2 38 1 40 2 15 ,, ,, 45 58 Dressing room — 1 .. .. 1 30 2 10 . , , , 50 90 2 .. . . . . 1 20 2 00 75 1 00 , , Average . • ■ . 1 25 2 05 75 1 00 050 90 Weaving room — 1 .. 2 50 1 20 2 00 1 00 1 50 , ^ , , 2 .. 2 50 1 20 2 10 70 1 30 , , , , Average . . 2 50 1 20 2 05 85 1 40 , , , ^ Finiahiug room — 1 .. .. 1 00 2 00 60 1 00 50 70 2 .. 3 00 90 2 20 50 90 , , , , Average 3 00 95 2 10 55 95 50 70 In Carpet Mills. Preparation and dyeing rooms — 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. Average Carding rooms- 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. Average Spinning rooms 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. Average Dressing rooms — 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. Average Weaving rooms — 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. Average Finishing rooms- 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. Average la carpets. 2 00 3 25 4 00 5 50 3 60 3 65 3 00 3 50 3 50 3 34 3 50 3 17 1 50 2 00 1 20 2 00 1 60 2 20 1 43 2 07 1 80 1 70 1 75 1 78 1 60 1 50 1 55 1 55 1 50 1 50 1 40 1 47 80 85 85 82 SO 85 83 80 75 78 93 50 50 50 50 90 50 90 50 1 00 050 I'oO 90 1 00 95 50 60 60 57 1 00 90 80 90 In some other Mills. Preparation and dyeing rooms — 1 .. 2 .. 3 .; 4 .. 5 .. Average 3 50 3 00 3 00 3 00 3 13 1 00 1 60 75 1 80 1 00 1 70 90 1 90 1 00 2 00 93 1 80 60 70 60 70 In other mills. 674 TINIIED STATES. Carding room — 1 .. S{)iiming room- 1 .. 2 ,. 3 .. 4 .. 5 .. Average Drsesing rooms- 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. 4 .. 5 .. Average Weaving rooms- 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. 4 .. 5 .. Average Finishing rooms- 1 2 3 4 5 Average Overseers. D. e. D. 0. 4 00 5 00 3 00 2 75 3 00 3 55 4 00 4 00 5 00 2 75 2 75 2 75 3 25 4 50 2 75 2 50 3 25 Men. 1 20 1 00 90 1 10 1 OO 1 04 1 10 1 15 1 10 1 20 1 10 1 20 1 15 1 10 1 20 1 20 1 10 1 15 80 1 20 1 10 1 00 1 03 D. c. 1 60 1 80 1 90 2 00 1 83 2 00 2 00 2 10 2 00 2 03 1 50 2 00 2 00 2 00 1 88 Women. D. c. D. 90 60 60 70 70 70 GO 1 00 75 90 81 60 85 60 80 71 1 00 75 70 82 70 1 40 1 50 1 45 60 90 80 78 75 90 80 90 84 Children or Young Persons. D. c. 45 30 50 42 35 50 50 50 55 60 55 57 70 50 60 90 70 08 80 65 80 70 45 71 60 90 80 70 60 70 o'so 70 In regard to overseers and superintendents, the observations under cotton (vide paragraph 142) apply- equally to woollen mills. UNITED STATES. 675 General Ayerages of tlie aboye Daily Eates. General averages. a 1 ' 4 i ■s o .a i 1 General Average. '* N CO •n S 13 KH a 1— ( »— 1 ^ Preparation and dyeing — D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. s. d. Overseers . . 3 00 , 2 88 3 65 3 13 3 16 = 11 104 Men 1 58 1 65 1 75 1 37 1 59 6 Oi Carding— Overseers . . 3 25 2 88 3 00 3 45 5 39 12 8i Men 1 59 1 55 1 78 1 47 1 60 6 Woinen 88 60 82 76 77 2 lOf Children 65 56 50 55 57 2 If Spinning — Overseers . . 2 69 2 38 3 67 '3 55 3 06 11 5i Men 1 47 1 78 1 55 1 53 1 58 5 11 Women , , . , 83 1 08 96 3 7i Children 75 52 ■ 70 58 64 2 4f Dressing rooms- Overseers . . 2 25 3 34 4 00 3 20 Men 1 63 1 65 1 47 1 49 1 55 5 lOi Women 90 88 78 78 84 3 14 Children . . 75 70 75 70 72 2 84 Weaving rooms — Overseers . . . . 2 88 2 50 4 00 3 25 3 16 11 lOi Men 1 68 1 63 2 30 1 59 1 80 6 9 Women 1 28 1 13 1 03 99 1 11 4 2 Children . . 66 , , 95 53 54 li Finishing rooms — Overseers . . 3 31 3 00 3 17 3 25 3 18 11 11 Men 1 59 1 53 1-63 1 46 1 55 5 9i Women 79 75 93 78 81 3 Oi Children . . 63 60 84 64 68 2 6i N.B. — " Children " sometimes includes young persons. 299. Some of the rates of wages to woollen workers in pwiadei- in Philadelphia have already been quoted in connection p^"*- with cotton. The following can be added : — Wool sorters, men Hosiery, women , , Shawl weaverSj women Shawlmakers, ,, Woollen workers . . D. c. D. c. . . 3 00 to 3 50 = .. 75 2 50 s. = 11 2 d. s. 3 to 13 9i 9 d. li 4i •• |l 25 2 25 4 8i 8 5i .. 1 00 2 50 3 9 9 4i In California the following rates of wages were giyen ^^ California November 1870, in the Report on the industrial classes by Mr. Consul Booker. m 676 Actual earnings. UNITED STATES. Woollen Mills and Worsted factories. Wool sorters, Chinamen per s. day and found 3 d. 9 Washers „ >t It "^ 9 Ditto, superintendents, white ,. . . per day 12 Dyers, white 10 Pickers, Chinamen . . per day and found 3 9 Carders „ ,. „ 3 9 Ditto, superintendents, white . . . . per day 16 Spinners, Chinamen. . per day and found 3 9 Weavers ,, » 9, '^ 9 Burlers ,, >i j> 3 9 Fullers ,, j> It -^ 9 Knitters, boys and girls, white . . per day 6 l^inishers, inale and female 8 Dressers, Chinamen. . per day and found 3 9 Press tenders „ . . 3 9 Drawers ,, 7, ',', 3 9 Packers „ .. „ „ 3 9 Brushers „ , . as 31 3 9 Engineers . . . . per day 24 Ditto, assistants Mechanics . . „ 16 .. „ 12 Labourers . . „ 10 300. The average actual earnings differ naturally from the average rates of wage. According to a state- ment in 1871 they were in woollen mills in Massachu- setts, taken upon 5,500 operatives — D. c. s. d. Men . . .. 1 62 or 6 1 Women .. 1 12 4 2* Young persons . . .. 94 3 H Children j?^ - 1 .. 64 2 4 c\>mf These wages, for a working year of 260 to 270 days, would give a less annual earning than was the annual earning for aU labourers in Massachusetts, computed on a basis of 75,664 labourers of all kinds at — D. c. £ s. d. For men .. 611 33 or 114 12 6 For women .. 299 43 56 2 10 Young persons . . .. 274 96 51 11 1 ChUdren .. 162 27 30 8 6 other rates of If this were true of the United States, then in round numbers it might be stated that men earn in a year of 300 days an average of 2 doUars, or 7s. 6d. ; women, 1 dollar, or 3s. 9d. ; young persons, 90 cents, or 3s. 4|d. ; and children, 55 cents, or 2s. Of c?. 310.* As confirmatory of the impression as to cost of these wages in the aggregate, I beg to quote some * Paragraphs 301-9 were taken out at the last moment and there ■was no time to change the following numbers. ■UNITED STATES. 677 isolated' statements of rates and averages. In wool sorting 2 dollars or 7s. 6d. a day of eleven hours was not an unusual wage. The superintendent of the sorters would in a large warehouse receive as much as 1,500 dollars, or 262Z. 10s. a year. Spinners earned from 1 dollar to 2 dol. 25 c, or 3s. 6d. to 8s. 4• Weaver room . . Finishing, including gigging, full- ing, scouring Employed on general work 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 6 7 17 28 23 22 10 9 36 12 7 8 26 40 60 36 10 Total 7 4 113 63 187 " This statement is an average one, made from the results of a year's business of several mUls under our control, some large and some small, and is made upon the basis of a mill having the capacity of what is known as a ' 10-set mill,' that is, with 10 sets of cards or machinery, and I trust it will answer your purpose. " You wUl note by it that 187 employers and opera- tives work up, during the year of 800 working days, 4-16,403 lbs. of wool in the grease, into 182,858 lbs. of UNITED STATES. 685 finislied. goods (cassimeres) equivalent to 292,572 yards, 27 inches wide, weighing 10 ounces per yard, which is about the average weight of this class of goods." A further remark should be made, that these goods have only a very small quantity of foreign wool, and may therefore be considered as representative goods, manufactured out of domestic wool. The self-operating jacks were only one-tenth of the whole. If all the jacks were self-operating, the pay-roll for spinning would be decreased a half in number and in wages. I have been able to coUect the following indications Hands per set. as to the number of hands per set of cards. Sets. Hands. Per Set. Kemarks. riannel mills — 1 8 81 10 2.. 13 143 11 3.. 18 206 12 4.. 4 60 15 5.. 10 125 12 6.. 9 110 12 7.. 17 110 11 8.. 7 68 10 9.. 8 75 9 10.. 15 150 10 11 6 85 14 12.. 7 64 9 13 (and blankets) 3 50 17 Average.. 12 Satinet mills — 14.. 6 71 12 15 13 230 18 16 6 67 11 17 (and shoddy) 7 80 11 Average.. 13 Cassimere mills — 18 12 160 13 - 19 5 64 13 — 20 8 102 13 21 8 93 12 22 23 24 8 18 8 110 300 100 14 17 13 Average of cassimeres only is 14 hands. 25 8 103 13 26 8 112 14 27 12 160 13 28 4 58 14 > [353] 3 A 686 UNITED STATES. Sets. Hands. Per Set. Remarks. 29. . 10 217 21 f This one is uniiBually I large. 30 (and tweeds) 4 65 16 31 (Ditto, fine) 8 130 16 32 (and shawls) 3 41 14 33 (and cloths) 17 300 18 34 (and shawls and ' delaines) 38 872 23 f Cannot sepai-ate the I cotton operatives. 35 (and shawls anddoe- skins) . . 5 65 13 Average. . • • . ■• 15 Average without Nos. 29 and 34 . . , , , , 14-5 36 Tweeds and repel- lants . . 5 79 16 37 Horse blankets 4 55 14 38 Beavers and ladies' cloths . . 75 1,300 17 39 Beavers, cassimeres, shawls . . 48 815 17 40 Shawls and piece goods • . 8 120 15 41 .. 10 200 20 , n r Flannel cloths . . *^X Worsted 831 8/ 2,000 22 General average . . 14-5 Hands per set, &c. Efficiency of labour and plant. I tMnt it may be fairly inferred that 15 hands per set is a fair average for cloths, cassimeres, and the like, and 13 hands per set for flannels, blankets, and satinets. Of these hands, the proportion of female to male would be as 5 is to 9. In Lowell the statistics show 3J hands per broad loom, beavers, &c. ; 3^ and 3^ per loom, fancy cassi- meres ; If, If, and 2 J per loom, flannels. The efficiency of hand-jack spinning is measured by a production per spinner of from 300 to 400 runs a day, whereas the efficiency of the self-operating jack is from 450 to 600 runs per jack, and therefore per hand. In weaving worsted goods there is generally 1 girl to 4 looms. 324. The maximum efficiency of labour and plaiat in the 10-set mUl of paragraph 313 is represented by 51 lbs., or 7 yards of | cassimere per hand per 11 hours. UNITED STATES. 687 In another mill of 22 sets it was, in 1872, an aggregate of 386,000 yards of f goods of the best class of coatings and staple fabrics. This aggregate was higher than the usual average per set for an extra number of looms was run, and a certain quantity of worsted yams was purchased. This efficiency is similarly indicated in certain local statistics as follows : — Hands. 815 217 120 360 Looms. 230 -Broad 71 47 330 Production. 23,000 yards of |- goods, beavers, &c., also shawls, per week. 350,000 yards of fancy cassimeres a year. 234,000 yards of f goods a year. 260,000 yards of ladies' worsted dress goods. Showing — 1. A daily production per hand of 4^ yards of -J goods exclusive of shawls. 2. Ditto, ditto, 5^ yards of fancy cassimeres. 3. Ditto, ditto, 6^ yards of J goods. 4. Ditto, ditto, 24 yards of ladies' worsted dress goods. It should be noticed that the worsted mill No. 4 buys its cotton yams, and consumes about equal quantities of cotton and worsted yams. In the Washington mills, 2,403 hands, with 400 cotton, 368 worsted, and 450 woollen looms produce per week 100,000 yards of cotton, 50,000 yards of worsted, and 40,000 yards of woollen goods, and also 5,000 shawls of various kinds. 325. In further illustration of the efficiency of labour Measured in and plant together, it may be remarked that, in the 10- ™'"*- set mills already referred to, the production at present prices represents a value of 55,000 to 60,000 dollars, or about 11,000Z. per set per annum. The following indica- tions of the average efficiency of woollen mills can also be quoted. 3 A 2 688 UNITED STATES. MiUs. Sots. Annual Value of Production. Per Set. Nature of Products. Dollars. Dollars. £ 1 25 1,200 to 1,300,000 50,000 9,375 Fancy cassimeres. 2 12 About 550,000 45,850 8,597 Ditto. 3 6 250,000 41,670 7,813 Ditto. 4 12 „ 550,000 45,850 8,597 Ditto. 5 10 „ 550,000 55,000 10,313 Ditto. 6 12 500,000 41,750 7,828 Ditto. 7 25 „ 1,000,000 40,009 7,500 Ditto, and other all wool produce. 8 10 „ 400,000 40,000 7,500 Ditto. 9 9 400,000 44,500 8,344 Ditto. 10 3 „ 100,000 33,350 6,253 Ditto. 11 25 „ 1,000,000 40,000 7,500 Ditto. 12 20 „ 1,000,000 50,000 9,375 ' Fancy cassimeres and coatings. Totals 169 7,550,000 44,600 8,363 13 2 About 75,000 37,500 7,031 Cotton-warp Mel- tons (150,000 yards.) 14 21 „ 1,000,000 47,700 ■ 8,944 Coatings. 15 5 350,000 70,000 13,125 Satinets. 16 10 „ 500,000 50,000 9,375 Shawls. 17 5 200,000 40,000 7,500 Worsted goods. Spindles. Per Spin die. 18 4-000 „ 600,000 150 28i Woollen and me- rino yams. The value of the production is at 1871-72 prices. £f6ciency in California. 326. In 1869, the following particulars of woollen mills in Calif ornia were published ia the " BuUetia :" — " In California there are now three woollen mills in operation, and one mill making knit goods. The first mills erected in the State were the Pioneer Woollen Mills, which were erected at Black Point, in San Pran- cisco, in 1859. These mills were destroyed by fire in 1861, but were more substantially rebuilt during the same year, and have been in constant operation since then up to the present time. The machinery has been added to from time to time as the demand for manufac- tures increased, until it now consists of 18 sets cards, 8 mules, and 14 jacks, 72 looms, and 6,000 spindles, driven by a 150 horse-power engine, and employing 350 hands. During 1866 they manufactured 30,000 pairs of blankets, 60,000 yards of broad-cloths, tweeds, and cassi- meres, and 375,000 yards of flannels, consuming 1,500,000 lbs. of choice wool. They also made very large amoimts of flannel into shirts, which have found a ready sale. The capital stock of this Company is 400,000 dollars, a black being the President. UNITED STATES. 689 " The Mission Woollen Mills are located at the corner of Sixteenth and Polsom Streets, the main buildings being of wood, and with front of 362 feet on Folsom Street. During the past year considerable additions have been made to the mills, so that they are now the largest on the Pacific coast. All varieties of blankets and flannels are made, as well as broad-cloths, cassimeres, tweeds, cloakings, and travelling shawls. The products of these mills were exhibited at the World's Fair at Paris in 1867, where, for blankets and flannels, they received a premium medal. " During 1866 the Mission WooUen MiUs manufac- tured 80,000 pairs blankets, 125,000 yards broad-cloths, tweeds, and cassimeres, and 500,000 yards flannel and cloakings, besides a quantity of shawls ; the whole con- suming 2,000,000 lbs. of fine wool. The mills employ 450 hands, using 150 horse-power engines, which drive 11-set cards, 6 mules, and 13 jacks, 50 looms, and 5,000 spindles. During the year ending April 30, the Mission and Pioneer WooUen Mills returned to the Internal Revenue Department their manufactures as valued at 816,815 dollars. The capital stock of the Mission Woollen Mills is 500,000 dollars. The President is Donald McLennam, who first established the mills in 1861, and now personally superintends their operations. " During the past year a small miU has been com- pleted at Marysville, and is now in operation under the name of the Marysville Woollen Mills. It commenced manufacturing in September, its products being blankets and flannels only, none of which, we believe, have yet been seen in our city. The mills at present contain seven looms, and corresponding machinery. "The past season is reported by woollen manufac- turers as being not as profitable or satisfactory in business results as m previous years. This has been caused by iromense importations of woollen goods from the manufactories in the Atlantic States ; and prices there having declined largely, these goods have been sold in our market at a loss. Our local mills have to purchase their year's supplies of wool within a period of two months, whUe manufacturers in the Atlantic States purchase from time to time as their wants require. The depression in prices, consequently, falls entirely on the 690 UNITED STATES. manufacturer on the Pacific coast, while ia the Atlantic States it is partially home hy the wool growers. " During the past year a new enterprize has heen successfully inaugurated in California, viz., the manu- facture of knit goods hy the Pacific Woollen MiUs of San Prancisco. These mil ls, the first of their kind on the coast, are located on Polsom, hetween Eighteenth and Nineteenth Streets, Mission Dolores. Although erected in 1866, manufacturing did not commence until June 1867, when their goods were put in the market, and, heiag of excellent quality, found ready sale. The miU at present produces all the medium and lower grade goods in their line, viz., all wool and merino under- shirts, drawers, hose, and half-hose, for both men and women's wear, which have not only novelty and excel- lence of fabric, but utUity to recommend them. " Operations have so far been conducted on a liberal scale — ^the mill only running during the day of eleven hours — the manufactures being at the rate of about 400,000 dollars per annum. The demand for goods is» however, fast increasuig, and when some additional machinery for the making of the very finest meriao and woollen goods arrives, it is expected to run the nulls night and day. The present machinery consists of 4 sets wool cards, 1 mammoth, a double set cards, and 2 self-cleaniag cotton cards (the last two kinds being the only ones on this coast), 4 mules, 1,800 spindles, 6 shirt and drawers, 15 single and 2 compound (equal to 12 single each) stocking, and 3 sets winding-machines, all being driven by a 100 horse-power engine. The average daily production of these mills is 100 dozen hose and half-hose, and 50 dozen shirts and drawers, employing 24 white men, 42 Chinese, and 24 women and girls in the building, and between 250 and 300 women and girls who do piece-work at their own homes. In this last employment these mills furnish profitable employment to a class of women which has been much needed ; as mothers can work at home supervising their children, and young girls be in company with their parents." S. Cost of Labour. Cost of labovir. 327. I now purpose to show the cost of labour in woollen and worsted mills in the United States, so far as UNITED STATES. 691 the data at hand will enable me. The average cost of labour "will naturally vary somewhat with the kind of product, but a lower average number of hands per set of cards does not necessarily involve, and in fact seems seldom to involve, a correspondingly lower average cost of labour per hand. The average cost of labour per hand does not appear to vary more than 15 per cent, with the nature of the product. 328. It has been shown that 16 hands per set is for piatributioa of cassimeres and fancy work a fair average. The propor- tionate distribution of hands, inclusive of overseers per department, would on that basis, and according to other data, be about as follows : — Per cent. hands. Assorting . .. .. 4-2 • Scouring . ■ • • * • 1-3 Dyeing 4-0 Picking . 1-3 Carding . . .1. 9-6 Spinning . .. 14-0 Spooling . 4-0 Dressing . 1-6 Weaving . .. 30-0 Burling 2-0 Scouring, falling, and gigging. . .. 10-0 Finishing . . .. 14-5 Engine-room 1-3 Machine-shop 1-6 Labourers . . .. 0'6 100-0 The distribution would vary somewhat from this in blanket, flannel, or satinet mills, on the one hand, and in mills also producing shawls on the other hand, whilst the distribution in worsted mills varies still more. 329. Prom the data as to rates of wage cited in this Estimate of Report I have computed the following estimated cost of ""^ ° * °^' labour in a 10-set mill : — 692 UNITED STATES. 1 Overseer 6 Hands , . 2 Hands . . 1 Overseer 5 Hands . . 2 Hands . . 1 Overseer 14 Hands . . 1 Overseer 20 Hands . . 6 Hands.. 3 Hands . . 2 Hands . . 1 Overseer 40 Weavers . 3 Other hands 3 Hands . . 15 Hands . . 1 Overseer 21 Hands . . 2 Hands . . 2 „ .. 1 „ .. Weekly Wages. Total. Assorting £ «. d. 3 2 11 £ s. d. 14 2 2 16 13 12 2 8 17 13 37 Scouring Dyeing. . 3 2 10 10 Picking Cai'ding 3 *6 14 7 Spinning Spooling 3 6 33 14 Dressing Drawing-in Weaving • • 3 'b 53 4 10 5 4 9 2 2 fio in n Burling Scouring "| Fulling J> Gigging J Finishing • • • • 3 7 31 3 2 10 21 10 34 10 10 14 Engine-room Mechanics Foreman 4 4 4 2 10 * 228 16 labour. 330. This shows an average cost of labour per hand throughout the mill of about 30s. a week, or hs. a day, or b^d. an hour. In a small mill of 4 sets, producing Average cost of cassimcres and broad-cloth, the average cost of labour per hand in 1871-2 was 1 dol. 37 c, or about 5s. l^d. per day. In a large mill producing shawls in addition, the average cost was 1 dol. 38 c, or about 5s. 2d. These mills were in Massachusetts. In the South the woollen mills may have a considerably less average cost of labour per hand for their coarse products, but I have not sufficient data to attempt to show it. In the West the cost of labour may be a little higher than in Massa- UNITED STATES. 693 chusetts, but in the Middle States it does not probably vary from the cost in New England. I think it would be fair to take as the average cost of labour the rate of 5*. per hand per day, and to apply a rate of 55. 2d. to fancy work. 331. The average cost of labour at 1 dol. 38 c. or i" cassimere. 6s. 2d., would probably represent about 20 cents or 9*. per yard of f-cassimeres, or Is. per lb. But this cost does not include yard and other outside labour. Por goods woven, packed, and delivered on the car for dispatch, another 2 cents or nearly Id. per yard should be added. This would give, say lOd. per yard of f-cassini?res, weighing 12 ozs., or nearly Is. l^d., per lb. In confirm- ation of this deduction from the data in this Report, I can quote Mr. Edward Atkinson's pamphlet on Revenue Reform, where he states that, in a yard of "substantial cassimere, now (July 1871) sold in the United States at 1 dol. 65 c, the cost of the labour of manufacturing is about 22 cents." In sterling this is Q^od. at present value of gold, and was then rather less. The late Mr. Edward Harris, a well-known manufac- turer of all-wool goods, puts, in his " Memorial " to Congress of last year, the labour in 12-oz. cassimere at 22 cents likewise. In another statement it was placed at 22^ cents; in yet another statement it was put at 24 cents or lOfd. for best cassimere. 332. Similar deductions could be made from similar data as to the cost of labour in some other woollen goods, but, taking this cost in cassimere as a kind of standard, the cost in other wooUens can be easily in- ferred by any expert. 333. I purpose, however, to cite some statements Proportion to as to the per-centages which the cost of labour bears to ''^"** total value in certain goods. The Washington Mills, " one of the largest and most economically conducted miUs," reported in 1871, that in — Fine indigo flannel coating, th.e labour was . . . . . . . . 20 per cent, of whole cost. Beaver, selling at about 3 dols. . . 21 „ „ Doeskin, selling at about 2 dols. 75 c. 22 „ „ Fine shawl, selling for longs, at 8 dols. 25 c. . . . . . . 24 And general ayerage on all products was .. .. .. .. 21-8 „ 694 UNITED STATES. This did not, howerer, include general labour about mill yard or engineers, but only tbe pay roll in the different woollen departments. Accorduig to the state- ment of the Lippet Woollen Company, the cost of labour in a cloth in which the wool was 70 per cent. was 15 per cent, of the total cost, taking a general average. It has also been stated that in broad-cloth the cost of labour varies from 15 to 18 per cent. ; in the lower woollens from 14 to 16 per cent. ; and in the higher woollens from 15 to 18 per cent. In shoddy goods only one-fifth wool, of 50 cents a yard, the labour was 8 to 10 cents or from 14 to 16 per cent. Cost per yard. 334 Taking the average prices of the articles named as. a guide, I think it may be inferred that the cost of labour in — Beavers is, per yard, about . Doeskins Fine shawls, is in each Fine indigo flannel coating is, per yard, about, Cassimere in general Broad cloth 335. Mr. Oonsul-General Archibald in his Report on the " Industrial Classes," cites a broad-cloth costing 2 dol. 30 c. or 85. 7^d. a yard, and 37-g^ cents or Is. 6d. nearly, thereof for labour. This shows a per-centage for labour of 15 per cent, when that of the wool was about 70 per cent. In Phiiadei- 336. From the Census Statistics of the City of Phila- pWa. delphia, as compiled by Mr. Lorin Blodgett, the following deductions as to cost of labour in certain products can be made : — Cents. s. d. .. 67 = 2 6 64J 2 5 .. 198 7 5 25 u\ .. 22^ 10 .. 60 '2 3 to 72 2 8i UNITED STATES. 695 Per cent. Cents. _ of Value. Mixed goods — Yarus, per lb. 7-3 =3 29 23^ Piece goods, per yard . , 4-l| 1 80 17i Balmorals and coverlets, each 6-9 3 1 10 Hosiery, per lb. 25-0 11 •25 211 Woollen manufactures — Scouring . . io| Yarns , , Cloths and coatings 17 Blankets . , • • 16 Shawls . . , , 23 Worsted manufactures — Yarns , , 11 Hosiery (including cotton and wool) and also including shawls , . 25 Dress goods 15i Reps and terry 19 Zephyr, braid, &c. . . •• 21i 337. These PMladelpHa Statistics likewise show that in carpets. in carpets the cost of labour, when the cost of materials is 44 per cent., is 19^ per cent, of the value. It has "been stated that the cost of labour ia ingrain carpets was higher in 1870 than ia 1860 by 49 per cent. In the Oohoes knitting mills, 18 in number, the cost of labour averaged 23 per cent, of the value of the products. 338. It will be recollected that ia 1 a and b of this part, in paragraphs 243 and 254, the proportionate cost of labour to production was shown to be according to the Census ; 17 per cent, of the value at the mUl, and from 30 per cent, to 33 per cent, of the cost of manufac- turing, and in worsted yam to 60 per cent. In koit goods. According to Census. e. — Possibilities of Lessening the Cost of Labour. 339. On this point, the remarks tmder cotton are equally applicable to wool. The cost of labour might, under other conditions, be reduced without impairing the resources of the labourer. And a' small reduction in this direction would probably equalize the cost of labour in the United States and in England. Assuming, with Mr. David Wells, that the cost of labour may be 25 per cent, less in England,, the .advantage of England is, as he As to lesser cost of latiour. 696 UNITED STATES. General expenses. Sec. Freight. General expenses per lb. Insurance. Commission. Mode of manufacture. points out, only 5 to 6 per cent, over the United States on that account in the value of the product. 340. The remarks, moreover, as to proportion of native to foreign labourers, and the less cost of the lahour of the Canadian-French and some others, are as applicable to "woollen as to cotton mills. And the shifting of labourers is as disadvantageous to wooUen as to cotton mills. g. General Expenses. 341. The observations in the corresponding subdivi- sion under cotton, apply, mutatis mutandis, to the general expenses in woollen and worsted manufactures. Fire insurance is naturally heavier. It seems to me, perhaps erroneously, that more woollen miUs are burnt down in the United States than in England. In 1869 returns were known of 52 woollen mills entirely burned, with 250 sets of machinery in 1865-6. A similar loss for the subsequent two years was not considered unlikely. The freight on wool is usually stated to be only 4 per cent, of its value from the West to the East. " Wool can be carried by rail from San Francisco to New York for 1 5 cents, or -Yod. per lb.," which is only J cent, or 0'225d. more than from Australia to New York by sea. It has been carried from San Francisco to Boston in 1869 at 1 dol. 10 c. per 100 lbs. The long credits are disadvantageous to woollen as well as to cotton mills. In the late Mr. Harris' " Memorial," already referred to, insurance taxes and general expenses are taken at 2 cents or xod. per yard of 12-ounce cassimere. Another authority puts them at 1 per cent, when wool is 70 per cent, of the cost at mill. The insurance rate of Ij per cent, was increased 40 per cent, a short time ago. It is claimed that the use of oleine will lessen the risk of fire and diminish the insurance premium. The usual commission to the jobber seems to be 2^ per cent, in woollens. h. Mode of Manufacture. 842. Many of the remarks under cotton on this head, as to general mode of manufacture and speed of machiues, are applicable to woollen and worsted mills. UNITED STATES. 697 In the use and selection of wools, the tariff duty Tariff. hampers the manufacturer who desires to mix foreign with domestic wools. It is said that certain classes of goods are, therefore, either not made, or are produced at an unnecessarily high cost. So far as possible the domestic wools are substituted for the requisite foreign wools. The purchase of wool is beset with greater difficulties Purchase of from the deceptions which are said to be often practised ^°°^' in putting up the fleeces than is the purchase of cotton. In the best roill, every operation is as perfectly performed as in the best mills of the Old World. But as in the Old World, so in the New World, there are exceptions. Por instance, some woollen manufacturers are warned by their practical guide books against the evil of not being as particular in scouring for kettle colours as for blue dyeing. In some mills, too, the dyeing is inferior from other causes. On the other hand, no better dyeing can be seen anywhere Dyeing, than in some of the American mills. In scutching for broad-cloth the wool is ran through once, then oiled in oiUng. the proportion of one gallon of oUve oil to 100 lbs. and run through twice or thrice, if necessary. Lard oil, whale oil, and other animal fats mixed with water are substituted for olive oil as less dangerous. " Oleine '' is much praised. It is an old Erench substitute, with the advantage of the economy of time and labour, and of a certain freedom from grease in woven or felted goods. Sometimes carded wool is first run through a comber. In all cases the noUs from combing wool are used for combing purposes. By spooling the side drawing from spooling first and second breakers, instead of creeling it, better ""s*^ of roping is obtained, and the yam can be run one-fourth of "''* ^' a run better. In spinning, the hand-jacks are still in use. In some Seif-operating cases they have been altered to draw by a self-draught in ■'*''''• pairs towards each other, thus dispensing with one spinner and improving the draw. The self-operating jacks, which have been described under Plant, are being largely substituted for hand-jacks and mules. 343. In the worsted manufacture it is thought that Excelsior the Excelsior spindle will revolutionise that industry. ^p'°"^«- Hitherto the manufacturers have tried rather to obtain a good loom for weaving. This they now have in the Crompton loom. And now, too, they will have advan- 698 UNITED STATES. tages in spinniiig. It has been stated that some of the reduction in labour has been obtained in the woollen manufacture by reduciag the doubling until the strength of the cloth is in some cases impaired. But this may not be a mode of manufacture extensively practised. Some small economies do not seem to be practised. There is no market for shoddy waste, and there is no system for extracting useful matter from the refuse water. <5enerai 344. As to the general efficiency of the American efficiency. mode of manufacture, I am able to quote the opinion of Mr. E. E/. Mudge, in his Report on "Wools and Woollens in the French Exhibition of 1867 " — " A more important point of comparison between American and foreign fabrics is the relative cost of pro- duction of such manufactures as we have most success- fully achieved here, measured by the only correct stan- dard — ^the relative expenditure of human labour required for such production. The solution of this question will determine whether we have such natural or acquired advantages as will justify the encouragement of this manufacture as a national industry. In pursuing this inquiry we can fix upon no single representative article of uniform quality and value, such as a ton of pig iron, the relative cost of which would determine the compara- tive advantages of the American or foreigner in the manufacture of iron. The infinite variety of cloths forbids the selection of any one as the standard of com- parison, even if it were possible to obtain data from the books of foreign manufacturers. This question must be solved for the products of the card-wool industry gene- rally, by comparing the efficiency of our system, pro- cesses, and machinery of fabrication. The many practical manufacturers who have recently visited Europe for the express purpose of studying its indus- tries, concur in declaring that, in these respects, we are on an equality with the most advanced nations. Laying aside the supposed advantages which we have in the possession of water-power, upon which far too much stress is laid in popular estimates, we apply everywhere in our fabrication of woollens the factory system, and make the utmost use of mechanical power,, while handi- craft processes are still largely used abroad, especially in weaving. Eor the preparation of card- wool no machinery UNITED STATES. 699 at the Exposition equalled in eficieney the American hnrring machinery exhibited there, such as is in general use here. In the carding of wool no improvements were seen at Virviers, one of the chief centres of the card- wool industry in Europe, which we do not have in use. About the same number of hands were employed at the cards as here. Spinning in large establishments abroad is usually performed by mules, while jack-spinning is more generally adopted in New England, as better suited to the different quaKties and quantities of yams demanded by the variety of fabrics usually produced in our mills. The mules used here are of equal efficiency with those in the best mills in Europe. With respect to weaving, it was remarked that looms were being con- structed at the machine shops at Virviers such as we would not put into our mills to-day. It was also remarked that no European looms for weaving fancy goods were shown at the Exposition which would bear comparison with the Orompton loom, and even upon that admirable machine great improvements are known to be in progress. The other processes of manufacture, such as idyeing, are the same as in Europe." i. — Products and Prices. 345. JBefore 1860 the American manufacturers had Products. " attempted scarcely anything beyond common goods of the coarser kinds. Now they produce almost every variety of wool fabric in general use." The more recent products of American mill s are alpaca fabrics, coburgs, meltons, "lastings, bunting, damask, Italian cloths, worsted poplins, mohair poplins, mohair lustres, cashmeres, merinos, astracans', chinchiUa cloakings, Scotch cassimeres, embroidered table covers, and Axminster carpets." All the coarser articles are made ; and, as may be inferred from the above enumera- tion, the range of goods, which is also becoming wider from year to year, is very large. But I cannot better begin this part of my subject Progress in. than by quoting, as follows, from the Report of the Congressional Committee of Manufactures in 1870 : — " Since the Acts of 1862, 1864, and 1867, the wooUen manufacture has been greatly extended. There is no branch of it, except that of fine broad-cloths, in which goods. 700 UNITED STATES. entire success has not been attained, and the immense supply required in the country is almost whoUy provided at home. Of the ' cloths and cassimeres ' imported, reaching ahout 6,000,000 dollars in value yearly, nearly all is broad-cloth. Imported 'shawls' reach less than 2,000,000 dollars in value ; ' carpets,' about 4,000,000 ; and ' dress goods,' chiefly of worsted, and worsted with cotton or silk, go to the large sum of 15,000,000 dollars in value. Mais on "On cloths and cassimeres of wool there are now more than 300 factories engaged, the new departments being the cloakings, beavers, coatings, and fine ' Erench ' cassimeres, &c. ; the other branches being longer estab- lished. Throughout the West a more rapid iacrease in the number of mills of this class is observed than in New England. " On shawls there are about 25 factories engaged ; the production is comparatively new, and completely supplies the market. " On flannels there are fally 30 factories engaged, supplyiag four-fifths of the demand. " On blankets there are about 45 miUs engaged, and the market is almost wholly supplied by them. " On hosiery and knit goods there are about 150 mills engaged, almost wholly supplying the market. Some departments of this manufacture are new since 1867, and a large share since 1864. " On carpets there are nearly 100 mills and other establishments engaged,— nearly one-half being yet woven by hand looms. The production is full upon ingrains and the lower grades, completely supplying the market, but of Brussels and the finer carpets four-fifths are imported. The new manufacture is of these finer kinds, and also of felts and druggets, a number of large estab- lishments having recently been devoted to making the last-named goods. " On balmorals, kerseys, and various mixed manufac- tures, the recent increase has been very rapid, balmorals being newly and wholly made in the United States, 20 or 30 large mills being engaged upon them. " "Worsted manufactures have especially attained rapid development under the present tariff : 1st, worsted yarns, on which 10 or 12 are mills engaged ; 2nd, worsted reps, terry, and like goods, on which 5 or 6 mills have wool manufac- ture. UNITED STATES. 701 started with great success; 3rd, worsted dress-goods, as moliairs, moliair lustres, raohair poplins, &c., on which one very large mill at Philadelphia, with two or three at other places, have begun within a year past. The great New England mills at Lai^T^ence, Lowell, and Manchester, have been making worsted dress-goods since 1864.'-' " Summary of the Growth of Woollen Manufacture. " The extent of the present possession of the market Growth of for fine wooUens of every other description than what """' are distinctively known as dress broad-cloths, is best illustrated by a list of nearly 300 factories, which, but for its length, we would give in full, represented in the New Tork market alone, all engaged on cassimeres, coatings, beavers, tweeds, repellants, ladies' cloakings, and other like fine goods, all wool or cotton warp, and which were, until recently, nearly all imported. The distinctively fine goods are almost all the growth under the tariffs siuce 1861, and the market of the United States, now grown to three times the measure of 1860, is held by this domestic production so nearly exclusively that the proportion of foreign goods entering into it is scarcely distinguishable. " The 300 mills so reported are, of course, not all ; at least 50 more would be represented exclusively in other markets of sale than New York ; but taking, for 300 only, an average yearly product of 200,000 dollars in value of goods, the total is 60,000,000 dollars ; and of this, one-half, or 30,000,000 dollars, is the growth since 1864, with a continued gain, although under adverse conditions of the general mai'kets, since the Act of March 2, 1867. " In the line of finer manufactures of wool and worsted the progress is more recent and not yet so complete; but there is evidence abundant that two or three years more will develop this branch equally with the hea^der woollens. The hold of the ten or twelve great establish- ments on the trade in mohairs, worsted stuffs, and other light goods, usually described as dress goods, is strong already. "For the first time in the history of the trade the market is really supplied with a domestic production of [353] 8 B 702 UNITED STATES. moliairs, alpacas, Italian cloths, &c. ; delaines having been abundant for some years previously. " We assume, therefore, that the tariff on woollens is effective and valuable, as it was designed to be, ia developing at home the enormous industry that must be engaged in the manufacture of woollens to supply our markets. " Further examination in almost every other class of woollens would show the same progress. Knit goods almost co.npletely supply the field at home ; and the growth since 1862 is to about three times the value then produced. " Shawls of all sorts, other than mohair or camel's hair, are no longer imported in any considerable degree. " Blankets, both of the finer white sorts, including carriage and travelling blankets, as well as all coarse Indian blankets, are also not imported to any amount, while the domestic production has reached large aggre- gates. Bearing ia mind the enormous importation of all classes of blankets formerly existing, the value of the protection which secures this industry will be felt. " In New England, as we have shown, and we repeat the statement because of the attempts now made to convey the impression that it is hostile to the tariff on woollens, the development of this manufacture has been very great within five years, and especially since 1867. Ten or twelve of the largest mills of the country manu- facture delaines, alpacas, moha,irs, Italian cloths, pophns, reps, chenes, armures, &c., including everything knoTini in dress goods of worsted, mohair, &c. Among the number of mills, the chief are the Pacific Mills, the Atlantic Delaine Company, tbe Lowell Mills, the Man- chester Mills, the Hamilton Mills, &c. The production of domestic mills is rapidly supplying the market, and with the continuance of the protection of 1868 and 1869 would, in two years more, cover two-thirds of the con- sumption in the United States." Woollens at Thc Fair in New York in 1869 showed the position New York ^q wMch the manufacture of wool had then attained in the United States. I have extracted from the " Bulletin " the following comments upon the articles exhibited : — " Cloths of admirable soundness and finish were esrhibited from States of the North-West, where, ten years ago, no woollen fabrics were produced of a higher fair. ■UNITED STATES. 703 quality than a Kentucky jean. These cloths were samples of such fabrics as are produced in hundreds of mills furnishing the chief supply of woollen cloths for the North-West. It was shown that the East, stimu- lated by Western competition, itself the fruit of the protectiye policy, is producing new fabrics, both in the card-wool manufacture and the worsted manufacture, yet comparatively in its infancy here. Eive years ago, all the classes of goods known as Esquimaux and Moscow beavers, used for overcoatings, were imported. The cheapness and excellence of the goods recently manu- factured, of which there was a full range of samples at the Exposition, have almost completely excluded the foreign products. The same remarks apply to the silk mixed cassimeres, so largely consumed. The models of the soft woollen cloakings known as chinchillas, and of the fabric largely composed of the brilliant hair of the Angora goat, known as astrakhans, both largely con- sumed for ladies' over-garments, were first shown at the London Exposition in 1862. They are now made here, of admirable finish, by power, while their prototypes were woven by hand. Before 1867 it was the poptdar impression that the Scotch cassimeres, or cheviots, — coarse but sightly fabrics, in fashionable demand for gentlemen's business suits, — could not be made in this country for want of the requisite wools. A range of goods of great variety, exhibited by one of our principal mills, was pronounced to be equal in taste and finish to the original Scotch goods. As in all similar cases, the prices of the goods have been greatly reduced by the introduction of the American fabric, such being the effect of the very recent production in this country of the fashioned knit goods for under-clothing, samples of which were exhibited, comparing favourably with the celebrated British knit fabrics of Oartwright. " In the staple goods, such as cassimeres and broad- cloths, the progress v/as indicated not so much by novelty of texture as by the better styles, improved fi.nish, and more sober and agreeable colours, which was strikingly illustrated by samples of former and present products exhibited by some of the mills. An expert well qualified to judge, from his position as Commis- sioner at the Paris Exposition, observed, that there were lines of cassimeres or series of fabrics showing the whole 3 B 2 704 UNITED STATES. production of the establisliment, exhibited by some of the mills, which would suffer nothing in comparison with analogous lines of goods exhibited at Paris by the best mills of Elbeuf. It was especially gratifying to observe the satisfactory evidences that the broad-cloth manufacture is reviving — a fact of peculiar importance in view of the statements which have been made that broad-cloths cannot be profitably made here under the present duties on foreign wool. " More encouraging still were the evidences of pro- gress in the worsted manufacture, now the leading branch of the wool industry in Europe, whence our vast consumption has been hitherto almost wholly supplied. The manufacture of lastiags or prunellas, in such ex- tensive demand for ladies' shoes, although as old in England as the time of Pope, and used then for the same purposes as at present, as shown by the famous couplet, — " ' Worth makes the man ; the ■want of it the fellow : The rest is all but leather and prunello,' has been for the first time successfully achieved here within, the last two years. In an address delivered in Philadelphia, 1865, we observed that, in consequence of the unfavourable tariff legislation then existing, no bunting was manufactured in this country, and remarked, ' To our shame be it spoken, all our flags are grown, spun, woven, and dyed in England, and on the last 4;th of July the proud American ensigns which floated over every national ship, post, and fort, and every patriotic home, flaunted forth upon the breeze the industrial dependence of America upon England,' The beautiful draperies of bunting, of various hues, which decorated the head-quarters of the Association, was a grateful proof that this reproach had been wiped away. " During the gloomiest days of the war, an association was formed in Washiagton of patriotic ladies, who pledged themselves to wear nothing except of American fabrication, and we were witnesses to the chagrin with which they discovered the extremely limited variety of worsted dress goods then manufactured here. How much would they have been relieved if they could have then seen such a display of worsted dress goods as was exhibited at our Exposition? Besides the beautiful "UNITED STATES. 705 delaines, armures, and coburgs of the older manufacture — the fabrics originated since the war, — the worsted plaid poplins, the Caledonian cloakings, serges, printed cashmeres, alpaca and mohair lustres, Roubaix poplins, black mohair lustres, mohair poplins of all shades, tissues not simply noticeable for being new, but for intrinsic excellences which enable them to supplant foreign pro- ductions. In these productions we see the explanation of the facts stated by one of our largest dealers, Mr. Jordan, that, eighteen years ago, when his firm commenced business, there were but one or two articles in their trade, outside of plain cottons, which were not obtained from abroad; and that now but one-tenth of their entire yearly stock passes through the Custom- house, and that is composed of the highest range of goods not sought for by the people at large. " Pive years ago all our furniture and curtain stuff's, known under the general term damasks, were imported. The notions which prevailed among English manufac- turers as to American taste may be gathered from remarks which we find in the ' London Art Journal,' in an article upon the English manufacture of damasks, published in 1863. ' Eor the American market,' says this journal, ' damasks are yet made which are rendered, by contrast with the more elegant productions, probably more outrageous than they otherwise might appear. Colours are strongly, and certainly not harmoniously, brought into juxtaposition, and crude and unseemh', though showy, designs indicate a low point in. the cultivated taste.' Two alcoves displaying draperies of all wool and union damasks, silk cotelins, reps and terries, of various though chaste designs and colours, illustrate the advantages which the American consumers have in depending upon home manufacturers who will not insult their tastes through ignorance or prejudice. " No portion fo the Exposition attracted more attention Carpets, than the eight large alcoves devoted to American carpets. In this department we have probably more nearly attained perfection, or an equality with the best foreign products, than in any other. All the varieties in ordinary use — ingrain, felt, Brussels, Wilton, tapestry Brussels, tapestry velvet, and Axminster — were exhibited. An interesting feature in the exhibition made by one estab- lishment was the circumstance that the designs of all 706 UNITED STATES. the carpets, fourteen in number, were executed, by American artists. Some had proved so popular that they had been copied and executed on English looms — a practical refutation of the estimate above quoted of our ' low.point in cultivated taste.' We have mentioned Axminster carpets am.ong those exhibited. These carpets, which are laid down in only the most luxiu'ious houses, have been largely imported into the City of New York from France, under the name of moquette ; they are made in Erance only upon hand-looms. Those exhibited at our Exposition were woven upon power-looms recently invented by a mechanician of the State of New York. The Erench and American goods — the designs in this case being copies from the Erench — were placed side by side. In colours and general effect they could not be distinguished from each other, although in strength of texture the American goods were manifestly superior, and are offered at prices very materially less than the ordinary selling price of the Erench moquettes. Here is another case where the introduction of a new American fabric will have the inevitable effect of reducing the price of the imported article. High fashion, which despises home-made goods, will be driven to seek some other fabric to render itseK exclusive. This fabric, in which there is no limitation in the application of colours to the thick velvety pile, must be regarded as the most tasteful and beautiful of the recent triumphs of our looms. " Gratified as we are with the results of an exhibition undertaken with great distrust, and effected with no little labour, we would avoid the boastfulness which is the besetting sin of new nations, cities, and people. We exult not so much in our attainments as in our progress. It would be absurd to suppose that, with a manufacturing experience of hardly more than half a century, and with the chills and fevers which om' manufacturers have suffered from instability of legisla- tion, we could have reached the perfection which the manufacturers of Europe have attained through the experience and traditions of many centuries. But we do assert that the Exposition has demonstrated what is possible of attainment in our department of industry. While we cannot vie in this country with the producte of mere handicraft labour, such as India shawls, lace. UNITED STATES. 707 and embroideries, and while it would be undesirable to do so, as it would be a waste of labour, too valuable here to be wantonly expended, we do assert that in every product of the spindle and loom produced by power we can equal the best productions of Europe." 346. Mr. Hayes, in an Address to the National Association in 1870, referred to the products of the woollen manufacture : — " When we come to look at it practically, we find Then and now that for the goods consumed by the great masses of the people, we are very largely independent of all foreign countries. A few years ago all the materials used for our great coats, such as beaver and Esquimaux cloths, in cloths. were made abroad ; but within the last five years we have succeeded in making these goods of an excellent quality at home ; and, practically, we now make all the cloths that we use for our great coats. We make all our -uader-goods, stockings, hosiery, and goods for under- in iiosiery. clothing, amounting to some 40,000,000 of dollars. Three or four years ago we made no goods of the class that are made fitted to the form; but within two or three years past we have succeeded in making these also, not by hand, but by machinery, and surpassing in quality any goods of the kind that are made abroad. And the result of this has been that American competition has actually reduced the prices of the foreign articles at least 6 dollars on the dozen. The silk goods that were shown in the Exposition at New York compared favour- ably with any that are made abroad. Our silks, our in many lustres, our serges, and a great variety of cotton stuff *'''<''"=^- of a class not made in this country at all until within the last five years, challenge comparison with any similar - articles made abroad. And the article of carpets, I say, without hesitation, that we surpass the manufacturers of any other country on the globe. We can make, at this very time, all the ingrain, two-ply, and three-ply in carpets, carpets that are used in this country. " Of the Brussels and other rich and expensive carpets nearly one-half are made in this country. Within the last two years we have succeeded in manu- facturing what is known as the Axminster carpet. That is a carpet which is laid down in palaces, a carpet that costs 8 dollars a yard. These carpets are made in Europe by hand, but we have been able to make them by the 708 UNITED STATES. Axminsters. Articles at Chicago, 1868, As to certain products. Delaines, power-loom superior in strengtli to the French, and in beauty and finish so exact a copy of the originals that, if you lay the two side by side, you cannot tell them apart. And these we make at so low a cost that we have com- pelled the manufacturer of the foreign article to reduce his price 1 or 2 dollars a yard, although the American Axminsters are frequently put upon the market and sold for the imported article." It fehould also be remembered that American inven- tion took in hand the ancient custom of felting cloth, and developed a mechanical system of felting which is now universallv used. An exhibition in Chicago in 1868 showed the j)osition of the woollen manufacture as to its products. The Chicago " Price Current" observed : — " The goods exhibited were of every class, including flannels from the coarsest grades to the finest opera goods ; jeans from Kentucky and Minnesota ; beavers from every Western State, and of exquisite finish ; doe- skins, of equally fine texture ; cassimeres, fac-similes of foreign goods ; shawls of every pattern and class ; tweeds, hoods, meltons, hndseys, yarns, blankets, satinets, hose, under-wear, mittens, gloves, braids, flannel jackets, trimmings, scarfs ; in short, every description of woollen fabrics which American ingenuity has proved itself capable of manufacturing. And this list, so astonishing when we remember that the first woollen mill in Illinois was built in 1842, is not made up of articles produced for the exhibition merely, but of mer- chantable goods which our eastern manufacturers must prepare to encounter in the market, with the advantage of transportation and of local acquaintance against them." 347. As regards certain products, it will be interesting to add some particulars. Mr. John Hayes, in an address to the Knitters' Association, made the following state- ments respecting some woollen products. In respect of delaines he said that — " Everywhere in this country north of Tennessee they have taken the place of the printed muslins or lawns, which have greatly gone out of use. In conse- quence of the establishment of the domestic manufacture of this fabric, the importation of printed delaines has almost wholly ceased. The American fabrics are made expressly to suit om' consumers. In printing them, all UNITED STATES. 709 the French novelties of style are introduced. The American article is softer, owing mainly to the qualities of domestic wool, and takes hotter colour than the imported fabrics; while the latter is wiry, and less pliable. The only competing fabric is one imported from Germany, woven from coloured yams, of a lighter texture, and inferior in wear, So great is the perfection to which the art of printing has attained here, that the woven cannot be distinguished by inspection from the printed goods. A celebrated importer in New York, who, when called as a witness at a recent trial, had asserted his infallibility in detecting the differences in fabrics, was dismayed at discovering that he had sworn to the identity of the foreign woven and printed American goods. Fortunately his mistake had the happy effect of preventing a contemplated fraud upon the revenue and the domestic manufacturer. We manufacture at present not less than 60,000,000 yards a year of these goods, which are all consumed here — nearly 2 yards to each individual of our population. Through the large scale upon which manufacturing establishments are organised, to the extent even of employing in one mill nearly 4,000 operatives, the producers have been able to obtain perfection and cheapness, by very smaU profits upon large quantities of goods, never seeking for more than 1 or 2 c. a yard. By the establishment of this domestic industry, the prices have been lowered to consumers — as I learn from disinterested parties, from 30 or 40 c, the price of the English article when first introduced — not less than 10 c. per yard, while a better article is supplied ; the prices now ruling at about 20 c." In respect of the manufacture of braids from worsted Braids. yarn, which was called into existence during the war, he ■said that — " Before 1861 our whole consumption was supplied by imported articles. The prices were from 62|^ c. to 75 c. per dozen. They rose during the war to 1 dol. 60 c. to 1 dol. 65 c. From 2,600,000 to 3,000,000 dozen a year are now manufactured, single establishments turning out from 10,000 to 20,000 dozen a week. The foreign article is now wholly supplanted by the domestic, of a better quality and at a priee of about 75 c. currency against the former price of 75 c. gold." In respect of blankets and flannels he said that Blankets and flannels. 710 UNITED STATES. " nothing can surpass the best domestic fabrics, and nothing is made here as poor as the imported blankets. " No comparison of prices can be made with articles formerly made or with imported articles, on account of the improvements in the styles of goods. It is sufficient for my purpose to show that this prime article of neces- sity is furnished by our own industry, and at prices effected by domestic competition, very few blankets being imported. How stringent this competition is, is shown by the fact that blankets which cost during the war 12 dols. are now sold at 5 dols. 50 c. a pair. A great economy in production, of which consumers receive the benefit, has been effected in this, as ia other branches of the woollen manufacture, by the saving of stock. Wool has such indcstructibleness and durability, that every sound fibre, however it may have been mixed with foreign substances, can be, and now is, converted to use. Thirty years ago, in the infancy of our manufac- tures, this was not appreciated. Piles of waste and dirty wool, or of short staple and bits of yam, all con- taining sound fibre, such as is now usefully appropriated, . were allowed to accumulate, to be sold at best for manure, or to be thrown into the adjacent river which moved the mill. The saving from utilizing such material is said to be equal at least to the profits from improved machinery. " The manufacture of flannels is another branch of our woollen industry, in which we have practically secured independence. Cards of opera flannels, made of the finest American fleece, from the pan-handle of Virginia or the Silesian wool of New York, may be seen upon which specimens of eighty-six distinct colours or tones and hues are displayed. The old notion that Americans cannot dye good or fast colours is exploded. The French opera cloms sold in New York are mostly of American production. Our markets are supplied, not only with these finer fabrics, but with coloured and checked flannels of coarser texture, now largely used for men's use." Cassimeres. Of the cassimcres I may mention " the silk-mixed cassimere, the alliance of silk with merino wool, through the infinite combinations made by our Crompton mule-producing fabrics, distinguished for their subdued lustre and the softness of their neutral tints. A single UNITED STATES. 711 manufacturing house of your city, whose silk and wool mixture are admitted to vie with those of Elboeuf, and which, as I shrewdly suspect, the dealers, not the manu- facturers, usually sell as such, consumes annually 150,000 dollars' worth of American silk organzine. The whole amount of silk consumed by our mills is esti- mated by good authority at not less value than 1,000,000 dollars." 348. Mohair goods are being successfully manufac- Mohair goods, tured, and a firm of Belgian origin in Philadelphia is increasing the range of such products. A recent production in the United States is a cheap Jute carpets. carpet of jute, and, as I understand, a mixture of wool. The production is, however, as yet small, about 3,000 yards a day. Lastly, in respect of products, I beg to quote, as showing what the American mills can produce, the United States' army specifications of last year for certain woollen goods : — " Woollen blankets, to be made of pure long staple Goods for wool, grey in colour ; the blanket, to be made 7 feet long, ^^'^'^ States' and 5 ft. 6 in. wide, and to weigh 5 lbs. ; bearing strains °^®™'"®" ■ to the inchj lengthwise of 52 lbs., crosswise of 25 lbs. " Six-fourth dark-blue woollen cloth, pure indigo dyed ; filling, 56 threads to the inch ; chain, 60 threads to the inch ; weight,21 oz. the linear yard ; bearing strains, crosswise 40 to 45 lbs. to the inch, lengthwise 90 lbs. to the inch. " Six-fourth dark-blue woollen forage cap cloth, pure indigo dyed; filling, 60 threads to the inch; chain, 64 threads to each inch; 16 oz. to the linear yard; bearing strains per inch, lengthwise of 30 lbs., crosswise of 20 lbs. " Six-fourth sky-blue woollen kersey, pure indigo dyed ; filling, 34 threads in each inch ; chain, 40 threads to each inch ; 22 oz. to the liaear yard ; bearing straias per inch, lengthwise of 90 lbs., crosswise of 45 to 50 lbs. " Three-fourth sky-blue wooUen kersey, pure indigo dyed ; flUing, 34 threads in each inch ; chain, 40 threads in each inch ; weight, 11 oz. to the linear yard ; bearing strains per inch, lengthwise of 90 lbs., crosswise of 45 to 50 lbs. ■ " Six-fourth woollen facing cloths, of various colours ; filling, 60 threads in each inch; chain, 64 threads in 712 "UNITED STATES. each inch ; weight, 16 oz. to the linear yard ; hearing strains per inch, lengthwise of 30 Ihs., crosswise of 20 Ihs. " Three-fourth dark-hlue woollen flannel, pure indigo dyed ; filling, 48 threads in each inch ; chain, 56 threads in each inch ; weight 5^ oz. per linear yard ; bearing strains to the inch, lengthwise of 25 lbs., crosswise of 17 lbs. " All the foregoing textile fabrics are to be free from shoddy or flax, and the nap very slightly raised, to be made of pure new wool. _ " Seven-eighths white cotton and wool domet flannel ; filling, 48 threads in each inch; chain, 56 threads in each inch ; weight, 5|- oz. per linear yard ; bearing strains to the inch, lengthwise of 35 lbs., crosswise of 40 lbs. " Three-fourth grey cotton and wool domet flannel ; filling, 48 threads in each inch ; chain, 56 threads in each inch; weight, 5^ oz. per linear yard; bearing strains to the inch, lengthwise of 35 lbs., crosswise of 17 lbs." Taking the production of the United States as a whole, it may be said that the bulk of manufacture is in very good cassimeres and superior flannels, and their equivalents. The best class of coatings and staple fabrics produced is, however, not equal to fine West of England or Belgian cloth. Prices. 349. The market prices of products of wool vary much at different dates, and seldom correspond to their values at mill. But, as the competition is generally close, the prices rarely rise beyond a fair profit. Indeed, it is universally averred that the prices have seldom shown a fair profit. Mr. David Wells in his well-known Report published a Table of prices, with which Messrs. A. T. Stewart and Co., of New York, had supplied him. I am indebted to the courtesy of Mr. A. T. Stewart for parallel prices for 1872-3, as in the following Tables. I am also indebted to that well-known firm for the follow- ing list of prices : — UNITED STATES. 713 List of Prices in 1872. I ■/ Blankets, per pair, 4 dol. to 5 dol 50 c. . "] ^ ^ j ^^ ^-r- " " 5do-25c.to7do.50c. L/i^^, gg J^ „ „ 7 dol. 60 c, to 9 dol. 50 c. f ,, OA „ „ 9 dol. 50 c. to 14 dol. J P Horse blankets, each, 2 dol. to 3 dol. 50 c, made with buckles, &c. Cottonade, per yard, 27 inches, 8 oz., per yard, 2-5 to 32^ c. per yard. Quilts, each, 85 c. to 2 dol. Flannels, white, 1 yard wide, part cotton, 40 to GO c. pcv yard. Ditto, ditto, all wool, 65 c. to 1 dol. 15 c. per yaid. Jeans, low grades, 20 to 27^ c. per yard. Linseys, all cotton, 10 to 15 c. per yard. Ditto, cotton and wool, 16 to 45 c. per yard. Balmoral skirts, 4 to 10 dol. per dozen. Delaines, 16 to 25 c. per yard. Skirtings, 20 to 45 c. per yard. Worsted dress goods, some part cotton, 20 to 75 c. per yard. Washington beavers, 26 oz., 3 dol. 75 c, per yard. Burlington cloth, 18 oz., 2 dol. 50 c. per yard. Mohawk silk mixed cassimeres, 12|^ oz., 1 dol. 30 c. per yard. Burlington doeskins, 10 oz., 1 dol. 30 c. per yard. Elliott felt cloths, 21 oz., l|dol. 50 c. to 2 dol. 25 c. per yard. Washington repellants, 14 oz., 1 dol. 37 '2 c. per yard. Rockland satinets, 11| oz., 62-2 to 67' 2 c. per yard. Leicester tweeds, 8 oz., 75 c. per yard. Brussels carpets, 5 frame, 1 dol. 50 c. to 1 dol. 90 c. per yard. Felt ditto, 80 c. to 1 dol. per square yard. 2 -ply ingrain ditto, ll2i to 127 c. 3 ditto, ditto, 140 to 160 c. Hemp carpeting, 29 to 33 c. per yard. Tapestry ditto, 1 dol. 15 c. to 1 dol. 30 c. per yard. Velvet ditto, 2 dol. to 2 dol. 55 e. per yard. Venetian ditto, 68 c. to 1 dol. 35 c.per square yard. Men's white merino shirts, 36 inches, weighing 8| lbs. per dozen, 21 dol. per dozen, rise and fall 1 dol. per dozen for every 2 inches of size and | lb. per dozen weight. Men's white merino drawers, 36 inches, weighing 8^ lbs. per dozen, 22 dol. per dozen, rise and fall 1 dol. per dozen for each 2 inches of size and ^ lb. per dozen weight. Merino white hose, ladies', 2 lbs., 8 dol. per dozen. The above prices are for fall, 1872, subject to the various discount of the trade for cash, say, from 1 to 6 per cent, according to the article. 714 UNITED STATES. Comparative prices, 1860 to 1872. Table in Mr. Wells' Report, with Additional Prices for 1872 and 1873. Price, Price, Price, Price, 1860. 1869. 1872. 1873. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. r 3 25 CaJet cloths, Government standard 2 75 f 1 37 3 25 1 75 •• < to I 3 37 Harris cassimeres, 14 oz. . . < to I 1 50 f 1 00 l to 2 00 ■ 2 12 2 00 Cotton-warp cloth < to L 1 25 } 1 75 " 1 62 All wool cloth 1 50 2 75 __ 2 50 Middlesex sacking , . 1 10 1 25 ,, doeskin .. 1 05 1 15 __ 1*25 „ beaver , . 3 75 4 25 3' 50 .. „ opera flannel 47 ( 1 62 1 50 r 2"l2 50 Broadbrook cassimeres ... , . ■: to 1 75 I 1 75 < to L 2 25 ,. ,, beavers , 2 75 3 00 2 75 ., r 1 12 1 25 1 00 • Spring cassimeresj 8 to 9 oz. \ to to to L 1 25 1 37 1 50 f 1 10 ' 1 Glenham repellants . to L 1 15 ■ 1 20 1 None making now are making finer goods. ,, sacking 1 05 r 1 15 J 1 00 1 Swift River fancies, 11 to 12 oz. . 90 to 1 10 }■• 1 12 Uoyalston cassimeres ' Average \ 1 07 : 1 25 1 40 Litchburg „ .. f Average L 1 07 1 25 .. 1 40 Windsor Falls repellants . . 1 00 1 10 1 05 The foregoing and following prices can be converted into sterling at 3s. 9d. to the dollar, the cent being VaiioHs prices, cqual to 0.45 of a penny. Some other prices are — Union satinets, 75 c. Union blankets, 65 c. to 1 dol. 25 c. per lb. Union chuicbilla, 1 dol. 65 o. All wool, 3 dol. 25 c. Cassimere (lowest), 55 c. Cheviots, 8 to 9 oz., 75 c. to 1 dol. 25 c. -Cloth, 30 oz., 2 dol. 70 c. In 1870, after the exhibition at Cincinnati, the prices obtained by manufacturers for large quantities were for — Flannels, plain, 50 to 65 c. „ red, 52^ c. Plaids, 40 to 62^ c. Cassimeres, 1 dol. 12^ c. to 1 dol. 35 c. Blankets, 9 to 11 dol. Shawls, long, 7 dol. 25 c. UNITED STATES. 715 350. The late Mr. Horace Greeley, in his " Essays on Political Economy," has the following Table : — "The prices of wool in New York on the 1st of Flannels. October, in each of the years 1860, 1866, and 1869, respectively, were as follows : — 1860. Gold. 1866. Currency. 1866. Equivalent in Gold. (Gold at 146 ) Fleece per lb., coarse to fine Pulled per lb., coarse to fine Fleece per lb., coarse to fine Pulled per lb., coarse to fine c. e. 30 to 60 25 55 30 60 25 55 c. c. 47 to 75 30 65 1869. 40 65 24 50 32 J^ to 51^^"^ 20Tf. 0. A. and T. white 18 16 21 H. A. F. scarlet 26 23 30 J. K. F. twilled scarlet 30 29 37i B. twilled scarlet 26 25 32i Double weight scarlet twilled . . 274 30J 40 F. and C. . . 36 34i 44i Talbot R} plain scarlet 26 25 32i G. M. and Co. twilled scarlet . . 23 20f 27 E. S 25 23 30 N. A. M. . . 25 23 30 Ballam bale 4-4 white. No. 1 . 75 65i 85 No. 2 . 60 53i 70 No. 3 . 45 40i 52J No. 4 . 40 344 45 No. 5 . 35 32f 42i Blankets, per pair — Holland 10-4 all wool 3 50 4 23 5 50 „ 11-4 „ 5 OO 5 38 7 00 Cocheco 11-4 ex. super 6 00 6 15 8 00 ,, 12-4 ex. super 7 50 7 30 9 50 Cumberland 10-4 .. 3 00 3 46 4 50 Cumberland 4 00 4 23 5 50 Kochdale 10-4 super extra super 3 50 3 27 4 25 „ 11-4 4 50 4 03 5 25 „ 12-4 5 50 4 80 6 25 ,, 10-4 premium 4 50 4 23 5 50 „ 11-4 5 50 5 00 6 50 „ 12-4 6 50 5 77 7 50 Blankets, 716 UNITED STATES. Fabric. Cassimeres. Carpets, Cassimeres, per yard — Broad Brook's Co.'s fancy cas simeres, 14 oz. goods Hamilton Woollen Co.'s (1860) per yard . Shawls — Middlesex Co.'s Delaines — Hamilton Woollen Co.' (1860) Salisbury Mills, bnv's checks, per yard (1860) . ' . . Sulisbury Mills Eugenia cloths (1360) Salisbury Mills Silk Codrington (18G0) Crossley Co.'s Conn., tapestry carpet* Price in 1859. (Gold.) D. u. D. u. 1 62i to 1 75 66^ 7 00 16 ^^ 58f 94 1 52| Price in 1869. (Gold.) D. u. D. t. 1 34 to 1 44 52f 5 38 13 45i 69 1 m 96 Currency Price in 1869. D. c. D. c. 1 75 to 1 87i 68^ 7 00 59i 90i 1 54f 1 25 * The imported article sold in 1859 for 95 cents. These prices show that the cost of manufacturing flannel has increased twenty to twenty-five cents since 1860. It will be remembered that in paragraphs 183-4 in Part II, the prices of some Union fabrics are given. k. Cost of Production. Costofproduc- 351. Thcrc is no doubt that, whatever be the reason, tion increased, ^j^g p^g^ ^f manufacturing woollens has largely increased since 1860, and that improvements have not counter- balanced that enhanced cost. Mr. Merriman, of the Lippitt Woollen Co., dealing with the cost at the mill, and taking American fleece at Distribution of. 70 ccuts, or 2s. ^^d. per lb. washed, gave in 1872 the details of cost of production for a yard of all-wool cloth as follows : — Cost of wool . . . . 70 per cent. of whole net cost at mill „ labour . . 15 „ „ rent . . . . 4 „ „ interest . , 34 „ „ fuel . . . . l| „ drugs . . . . 3 „ ,, other materials . . 2 „ ,. taxes, insm-ance, &c. 1 „ 100 At 80 cents for wool, the proportionate per-centages would be altered. Before the advances in 1871-2 in wool, the cost of wool was only 62| per cent." of net cost. UNITED STATES, 717 The cost of mamifaoturins' 12-ounce cassimeres is Costofi2.oz. given in Mr. Harris's " Memorial " as follows :- 1 lb. Australian wool, currenc)' price in Boston Shrinkage, 55 per cent., increases cost to (clean wool) Waste to cloth (one-sixth'j Cost of wool ill 1 lb. of cloth . . ' Used in 12-oz. cassimere Dyes and supplies Duty on dyes and supplies . . Insurance, taxes, and general expenses Labour Cents. 60 133 33 22-22 iss- 55 ue 67 4 2 2 22 Cost per yard Sales and interest, 5 per cent. Cost per yard to consumers . . 146-67 7-33 169 If American fleece at 70 cents be substituted for Australian wool, the result would be about the same as the shrinkage would be only about 45, per cent. 352. If Mr. Merriman's formula be applied to certain of scTei-ai classes of cloth, the following results can be obtained : articles. 6-oz. 12-oz. 16-oz. 124-oz. Cassimeres. Cassimeres. Cloth. B. cloth. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. Wool 58-34 1 16-67 1 55-55 2 33-32 Labour 12-50 25-00 33-33 50 00 Interest, &c. . . 6-25 12-50 16-67 25-00 Dyes and supplies 5-42 10-83 14-45 21-67 Taxes, insurance, &c. 0-83 01-67 02-22 03-33 83-34 1 66-67 2 22-22 3 33-82 This would represent per lb. of cloth in sterhng : — ■ Cost per ib. Wool . . Labour Interest, &c. Dyes and supplies . . Taxes, insurance, &c. s. d. 5 10 1 3 U 6* 1 8 4 It is obvious that, if other materials than pure wool be used as the raw or primary materials of the fabric, the proportionate per-centage of such materials is reduced, and the per-centages of the other items of production proportionably increased. It is generally affirmed that [353] 3 c 718 UNITED STATES. Cost of a brcad-cloth. Census per- centages. Minus pront. few \yoollen goods costing more tlian 2 dol. 50 cents, or about 9s. 6d. a yard are made in tlie United States. 353. Mr. Consul- General Archibald, in bis Report on tbe Industrial classes, mentions a broad-cloth costing 2 dols. 30 cents or 8s. ^\d. per yard, in wbicb tbe D. c. s. Wool cost . . . . . . 1 65 = 5 Labour .. .. .. .. 371 1 5" All other items . . . . . . 37^ 1 5 d. ^2 2 30 8 7J. '4 Tbis shows a rather higher per-centage than 15 per cent, for labour, and 15 per cent, for other items, and gives only 67 J per cent, to the primary materials. 354. It will be remembered that from the Census Statistics the following proportionate per-centages were deduced : — Raw materials Labour . . Dyes, &c. Supplies . . Remainder Per cent. 54 17 3 3 20 ■8 •2 ■7 ■6 •7 100-0 19 •0 4 •5 4 25 11 ■75 Assuming that the " remaiader " covered 10 to 11 per cent, for profit and distribution, and re-arranging the proportionate per-centages without that item, I am able to compute the following estimate : — Per cent. Primary materials . . . . . . • . 60 '5 Labour .... Dyes, &c. . . Supplies . . Interest, taxes, &e. . . 100-0 Into the aggregate from which this per-centage of pri- mary materials is calculated there enters a quantity of materials, not pure wool, to about 13 per cent. It may, therefore, be fairly said that, if the primary materials had been all wool, their value would have been much higher. If it be assumed that this higher value would have increased the per-centage to 70, then the propor- tionate per-centages would have stood as follows : — UNITED STATES. 719 Wool . . Labour Dyes, &c. Supplies . . ■ Interest, taxes, insurance Per cent. 70 14-5 3 '25 3-0 9-25 100-0 355. This result does not materially differ from Agrees with -»/r-»«-. !o T ■ n T 1 formula. Mr. Merrimans formula in tne preceding paragraphs. I therefore venture to take as the standard cost of manu- ^^ragelost of facturing woollens, averagiag all cloths of pure wool, the manufacturing. following items : — Labour Dyes and supplies Interest, taxes, insurance. &c. d. 3 per lb. 8i „ 2 6 I take it that the only variation of importance from this estimated standard would he in respect of the cost of labour, which, for cassimeres and cloths, for instance, would probably vary from Is. to 2s. 6d., thus causing the cost of manufacture to vary from 2s. 3d. to 3s. 9d. per lb. The variations for blankets and flannels on the one hand, and shawls on the other, would bear the same relative proportion to the standard as they would to a similar standard in England. 356. Keeping in view the considerations stated, and Estimated cost taking as examples some of the products with their per^yard."''"" prices from the preceding sub-division, I am able to compute the following estimates of the cost of production per yard : — 3 c 2 720 UNITED STATES. 1 p; o o o PM o ■+= OS O O Hi CO .CO 00 Tl< !H' "s ■ «!■« 0; ■* CO O a> to 'S « »; •* f- o o to 1> c3 1! cj o O O CO t^ o O o _ (M CO 1-1 .-H 00 c I— 1 fi ^ O o o 1-H (M m to ** a CO CO w CO ** S 1 -a ^ P ■1 4^ a-S 5 •s CO =« S °-'i3 ■4-3 .o CO J3 6 ^ Sg § S cs tS £h3Qa .UNITED STATES. 721 These results are offered as merely indications of the facts of manufacturing woollens. The probability is that in all these instances the cost of manufactiiring is less, and the cost of primary materials more, than therein stated. 357. Por if the items of the late Mr. Harris's estimate of the cost of producing 12-oz.- cassimere are similarly arranged for 14-oz. cassimere they would be as foUows : — D. c. Primary materials .. .. .. 1 36'1 Labour. . . . . , . . . . 26 Dyes and supplies . . . . . . 07 Interest, insurance, taxes .. .. .. 10"9 1 80 Wholesale value . . . . . . 2 00 On the other hand, the cost of labour in these estimates for broad-cloths and beavers is rather lower than in the Returns from the Washington Mills. {Vide paragraph 333.) 358. The possibilities of diminishing this cost of As to lessening production are several and important. Without duties ^^^^ "f p™"""- on wool it is possible that the cost of the primary materials would bo reduced. Without duties on dyes, chemicals, &c., it is possible that the cost of dyes and supplies would be reduced. Moreover, according to the advocates of free exchange, a Revenue Tariff would tend to equalize the conditions of production on both sides of the Atlantic. If, too, the cost of living were lower, the cost of labour would be diminished, without lessening the present resources of the labourer. A return to the cheaper cost of production of 1860, yet cheapened by the improvements in manufacture in the intervening decade, may not be possible. Even a partial return to such conditions would considerably increase the competing power of American woollens. 359. The following estimates, showing the possible Possible effect effect of a Revenue Tariff in competition with England, "we^ are from Mr. Harris's '" Memorial : " — " Should the present extraordinary prices abroad not be maintained, the manufacture must once more be pro- strated, through no fault of its own, no lack of skill or enterprise, as it was during the years succeeding the adoption of this Tariff. But even at present prices, when 722 UNITED STATES. the manufacturer is temporarily encouraged by the greater reduction ia the effect of duties on wool than on cloth, he is worse off than he would be under absolute Eree Trade in wool and woollens, and far worse off than he would be with a fair revenue duty on cloth and free wool and materials, as the following facts will prove : — " Relative cost of making and importing 12-oz. cassi- mere, of first-class Australian wool, now costing 16d. in London. Amekican Goods. Under Under Present Free Duties. Trade. Cents. Cents. 1 lb. Australian wool, currency price in Boston . . | 60 36 Skrinkage, 55 per cent., increases cost to wool) (clean 133.33 80 Waste to cloth (one-sixth) 22-22 13 '33 Cost of wool in 1 lb. of cloth . . 155-55 93-33 Used in 12-oz. cassimere 116-67 70 Dyes and supplies Duty on dyes and supplies Insurance, taxes, and general expenses . . Labour . . . . . . * . . 4 2 2 22 4 2 22 Cost per yard Sales and interest, 5 per cent. . , 146-67 7-33 98 '6 Profit, 10 per cent. .. , . 15 10 Cost per yard to consumers 169 1 14 UNITED STATES. IJritish Goods. 723 Under Present Duties. Under Free Trade. 1 lb. Australian wool, in London (16c?.) . . Shrinkage, 55 per cent. . . , : Waste to cloth (one-sixth) Cents. 32 71-11 11-85 Cents. 32 71-11 11-85 Cost of wool in 1 lb. of cloth . . Used in 12-oz. cassimere Dye-stuffs and supplies Insurance, taxes, and general expenses . . Labour 82-96 62-22 4 2 16 82-96 62-22 4 2 15 Cost per yard (gold) . . Packing and transportation Duty, specific Duty, ad valorem 84-22 5 37-50 30 84-22 6 Cost to importer (gold) . Cost to importer (currency) 156-72 172-39 89-22 98-14 " It will appear from the above that, under Free Trade, the prime cost of a yard of 12-oz. cassimere, landed, would be 893^0 cents in gold ; add 10 per cent. : 98xb-o- cents currency. "A revenue duty of 30 per cent, would increase the cost to 1 dol. 27^ currency. " In the above statements, the prices of Australian wool in Boston (60 cents) and in London (16d., 32 cents gold, or 36 cents currency) are the actual prices at the date of this writing. It may be said that the difference between the currency price, 36 cents in London, and the currency price in Boston, 60 cents, is more than the amount of duty ; but it must not be forgotten that we have no customary direct trade in wool with Australia, and hence we are obliged to pay 10 per cent, additional duty for wool imported, to meet the present need, from London. Had we Free Trade, or a moderate revenue duty only on goods, we should do as our Canadian com- petitors do — send wooUen goods to Australia in exchange for wool." I should remark that the additional 10 per cent, on Australian wool purchased east of the Cape has been removed, and that some of the other duties affecting British compc tition 724 UNITED STATES. woollens have been taken off or lowered since tlie date of Mr. Harris's "Memorial." Need fear no^ 360. It wiU be noticcd that, even with. 33 per cent. ' """" higher wages to pay, the American manufacturer need not, it would appear, fear British competition. In confirmation of this view, I can quote the follow- ing paragraph from Mr. Edward Atkinson's pamphlet on " Bevenue E-eform : " — * " Let us take woollen cassimere as an example. In a yard of substantial cassimere, now (July 1871) sold in the United States at 1 dol. 65 c, the cost of the labour of manufacturing is about 22 cents. It is alleged that the wages of the operatives in our woollen mills are one-third more than those paid in Europe. Even admitting this to be true, the difference in cost would only be 5^ cents per yard, or only 4 per cent, upon the value of the cassimere ; and before the foreign goods coizld be sold here, the cost of packing, transportation, exchange, and other charges would have to be paid, and would certainly absorb the larger part of so small a difference. It may be alleged that in some parts of Germany the wages of operatives in woollen mills are only one-half what they are here, and such is probably the fact ; but it is also true that in such localities the number of operatives employed upon a given amount of machinery is nearly or quite double the number employed on the same machinery here ; therefore the cost of labour on the yard of cloth does not vary materially. The true disadvantage of our woollen manufacturers at the present time is in the oppressive impost upon wool, dyestuffs, and oil, and upon all the supplies entering into the cost of goods ; and also in the duties on iron, steel, leather, lumber, and all other materials entering into the cost of machinery. The opinion was lately given by a very skilful German manu- facturer of cassimeres, after a careful comparison of the cost of making goods in Rhode Island and Germany, that if the Rhode Island manufacturer had his wool and other materials free, it would be more likely that American cassimeres would be exported to Germany than that German cassimeres would come here, the use of machinery and the economy of labour being much greater here than there." UNITED STATES. 7^5 3. .Past Position. 361. As in the corresponding division under cotton, The past. time wUl only allow of my giving a few indications of the past of the woollen trade in the United States, and will not permit me to show, with any detail, the condi- tions of the manufacture before the recent war and the Morrill Tariff altered these conditions, and thus to indi- cate the condition to which the industry might in part return. The comparison of 1870 with 1860 is made in detail i" i860, in the Census Statistics in paragraphs 214, 245, and 256, so far as comparison is possible. The Census Returns at each decade, together with some other B-etums and estimates, show the following aggregates for com- parison : — Since 1810, Wool. Value of Products. Lbs. Dollar?. f 1810 , . 25,000,000 5,208,334 1815 19,000,000 3,960,000 1820 , , .4,000,000 825,000 1840 50,808,524 30,000,000 6,250,000 1850 71,186,763 43,207,545 9,000,000 1860 95,098,000 61,894,986 12,895,000 ■ 1870 194,165,133 165,405,358 26,650,000 Prom Mr. Hayes' " Meece and Loom," I extract the following two Tables, showing particulars of the progress made in 1864 and 1865 :— ne UNITED STATES. Table showing the .Value of Woollen Goods manufac- in 1864. tured in the United States for the Tear ending June 30, 1864. LCalculated from o£Scial Keport of United States' Commissioner of Interual Revemie.] Cloths, and all Textile, Manufacturers of Wool, Knitted, or Felted Fabrics of Wool, before Dyed, Printed Manufacturers of Worsted, States. not otherwise provided not otherwise Total. for. or Prepared in any other manner. provided for. D. c. D. c. D. u. D. c. Maine 3,238,098 67 238,385 00 , , 3,476,483 67 New Hampshire . 9,044,762 00 34,915 00 , , 9,079,677 00 Vermont . 3,145,933 67 562,788 00 , , 3,708,721 67 Massachusetts 38,905.399 00 800,531 33 897,720 67 40,603,651 00 Rhode Island 2,963,154 33 7,668,531 67 261,014 33 10,892,700 33 Connecticut 11,873,763 67 3,913,965 00 78,912 33 15.866,641 00 New York 10,850,180 00 2,214,802 67 912,792 33 13,977,775 00 New Jersey 2,752,652 00 25,361 67 70 33 2,778,084 00 Pennsylvania 13,022,447 33 3,502,190 00 75,075 00 16,599,713 33 Delaware . 548,134 67 ,. 548,134 67 Maryland . 450,385 33 1,526 67 ,. 451,912 00 West Virginia 58,486 00 5,267 00 63,753 00 Kentucky . 117,534 33 242,370 67 359,905 00 Missouri . 72,980 00 2,364 00 75,344 00 Ohio 1,315,243 00 85,634 67 1,400,877 67 Indiana . . 545,128 33 11,794 33 1,092 67 558,615 33 Illinois 341,907 00 11,384 00 5,793 33 359,084 33 Michigan . 118,094 00 33,754 33 151,848 33 Wisconsin . 104,457 67 860 00 105,317 67 Iowa 102,815 67 15,489 67 , . 118,305 33 Minnesota 8,696 00 450 00 9,146 00 Kansas , . 14,947 67 , , • . 14,947 67 California . 538,956 00 538,956 00 Oregon . . 128,620 67 .. 128,620 67 Nebraska Territory 45 67 ■■ 45 67 121.868,250 33 UNITED STATES. 727 S o Mills to be heard from. r-H 00 CTl TH*lO CO <^ !>. »-l (M F-H tT-l Tt< (N Q0C?JTtiC IN t^ t>. ■•.■ CM. !»..•■:>■>.■ h|0O CO Weekly Consumption of Foreign Wool. — I ID «5 O O O^i t^ CM 1 OOO'I en CO Weekly Consumption of Domestic Wool. OrHMlOt-tOOCO .cotDini(Mr**Nr-i . (-H . , O o r— 1 11 SB ^1 '^tococictOQOini— 1 I-H .—1 M*C-*Or-l -*!>. N O CO I-H ift O !>* rH ,-h . sy 5 28 3 52 3 58 M . ■ . . . female 3 66 3 95 Spinning male , . 5 28 5 22 5, »» 6 36 4 78 4 94 Dressing . , , , 6 54 >> female 3 62 3 25 5 52 Drawing i» 4 37 4 28 5 60 Cassimere weaving male 5 22 5 28 »? jj ■ . . female 3 55 4 26 Broad weaving . . male 4 20 5 10 6"l2 J) J J • • . . female 4 23 3 95 4 40 Weaving male 5 82 6 06 5 52 Pulling jt 4 98 4 68 4 56 Narrow gigging . »» , , 4 38 Broad „ . . • »» 5 28 4 50 4*98 Finishing jj 5 40 4 38 4 92 i> . . . . . female 2 55 3 80 2 83 Repairs male 7 56 7 50 8 28 Yard . . . s» 5 58 5 70 6 60 Hours of labour per week 72 66 66 730 TTNITED STATES. In ingrain carpets. IVTa-NUFACTURE of Ingrain Carpets. 1848. 1858. 1868. 1872. Wool-room — D. 0. D. c. D. c. D. c. Overseer Male, by the day 15 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Second hands ), t3 9 3G 9 42 15 00 15 00 Sorting 3» piece 6 48 6 42 12 00 12 00 >) S3 day 5 64 4 98 9 00 9 00 •Washing ■ a 5 34 5 04 9 00 9 00 Burring „ 3 76 4 08 9 00 9 00 Worsted yarn-^ Overseer ,, S3 18 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Second hands ,, ts 9 48 8 76 13 50 13 50 Other hands . . „ J) 3 78 3 84 4 20 4 44 »» It • • Female ts 3 00 2 70 4 20 4 44 Spinners and twisters . . piece 3 84 3 36 5 94 5 22 Filling yarn — Overseer Male day 15 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Second hands >» S3 8 52 9 34 13 50 13 50 Other hands . . IS 5 28 4 20 9 00 9 00 J) )j • ■ Female ss 3 00 2 88 4 74 4 92 Jack spinnei's Male piece 6 48 4 56 7 80 7 98 Dyeing — Overseer jj day 12 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Second hands Si ss 10 00 10 00 13 50 13 50 Section hands s» 3S 7 50 7 98 10 50 10 50 Common hands 3i S3 5 34 5 04 9 00 9 00 Winding — Overseer 11 jj 12 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Seco"nd hands »» jj 6 18 8 25 13 50 13 50 Other hands . . )» >S 3 84 4 56 7 00 7 00 aj J3 • • • • Female i> 3 24 2 58 4 33 4 56 Winders, spoolers, &c. , . ,j piece 3 72 3 36 5 16 6 06 Carpet weaving by steam looms — Overseers Male day 15 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Second hands }i >i 11 25 12 00 15 00 15 00 Section hands J3 73 6 00 6.00 13 50 13 50 Weavers Female fs 3 30 3 30 5 52 6 06 „ . . . * J, piece 5 10 4.08 7 14 7 20 Finishing and pinking — Overseer Male day 12 00 15 00 21 00 21 00 Second hand . . jj 31 6 00 8 25 13 50 13 SO Other hands . . Female 13 3 96 3 60 5 76 5 TS Yard hands — Overseer Male 33 8 00 13 50 21 00 21 00 Second hand ." . jj IS , , 9 00 13 50 13 50 Labourers )» 11 5 00 5 28 9 00 9 00 Hours of labour per week . 66 66 66 64i Prices in the past. To 1849. In 1848 and 1858, the dollar was worth 4?. 2d., but in 1872 it was only worth about 3s. 9d. In sterling, therefore, the rise in wages would not show^ as great a per-centage. 363. As regards prices iu the past, I have extracted from Mr. Grosvenor's " Does Protection Protect ? " the following Table, and I regret I have been unable as yet to procure prices for the years 1849-60 : — "UNITED STATES. 731 D ^ C-- "3 ^_; II C GO O O '^— . , - - - - - - "Ctr-irHi-lp— li-ltMr-iOOOOCOOOOOOOC csasn OOO 30iO OO- lOOOOOOOOOOOOOO'^n Gl C* CI OOO I r-t r-l i-H t- i: i:0tMG»DlCli-'Mf-iOOO0OOOOOOOG3O'!fu -lOOOOOOOOOOOOO'Jt'Ot- OOO 05 CO o o c3 03 o o o o CO C O Pi i; CO oi ct CI CI CI ;^ ■lo o~OwOooooooc;-*u EC ci o o - 1 Gi OJ CI M r- 3 P3 CI C* C t CO tl3 t>- O lO -rti CI Ct lO C IJOOOOOOOOOOOO-TiU OOO a o lo m lo CI I— . i O t~SD Cl r-l CO ■ P CO CI CI CI CI I— I CO r lOOOOOOOOOOOOO-a t>-o OtO fico CO O ira i-^ ic IB CI 00 ^ « M CI >— I G' ■J O O O O O O O O OO O O O -^ t-3l>. OOO 3i-i t^inCIOt ■3 CO CI Gl G7 CO r lOOOOOO o P-^COCOCOGIGICOr-lOOOOOCaO ; ifl GI CO CI t 'oo o -*-^ do CO CO CO CI CO ir-cisocictcic rH OOOOOi- O O O m CO 00 loeo-* OOO :5 O OvnOio t- CO CO Cl N CO r n r:o CO CO m O o ci ct ci O cs OOOmeooo OOO 1 O L-~ )0 GIC* CO C« ; CO GI Gi CI r f-^HCOCOCOCICOi-i 'OOOOr COGO-^ :u3 M ■* : 'ooo ^OOiO o flOiflC^lO * ■^cocoeo ;■* eoeoeoi- 'ooooi- iOEOo 'ooo aia\o ooo P -^ ■* CO CO CO w ^^ooooo'^'^'^'*'^"'''«aco^'~!°^ o o O o g, & C7< g< & g. I 'jg °l T „ - « = :BSSS |3gS = = = . -H^ S'S iig-s" ^is^ ^sl^ IS S'S "Kcd 1 i u a a =^ S S o3-S cK aSoPH KK-=)Btn S S 732 UNITED STATES. Prices of wool. 364. The prices of wool to tlie present date from 1849 are in the following Table, talong Billing's super pulled as a standard, which is, however, rather above the average: — c. c. From 1849 to 1849 .. 30 1861 . 40 1872. 1850 .. 40 1862 . 53 1851 .. 45 1863 . 70 1852 .. 41 1864 . 87 1853 .. 50 1865 .. 110 1854 .. 50 1866 . 75 1856 .. 35 1867 .. 55 1856 .. 42 1868 . 48 1857 .. 50 1869 . 521 1858 . . 321 1870 . 48 1859 .. 50 1871 . 48 1860 .. 50 1872 . 80 Domestic wool The Quantity of domestic wool thrown upon the i87i_ market is stated in the following Table for the years 1861-71, prepared by the Commissioner of Agricul- ture : — Years. Sheep. Wool. No. Lbs. 1861 21,500,000 55,000,000 1862 24,000,000 67,500,000 1863 28,000,000 82,500,000 1864 31,000,000 95,000,000 1865 35,000,000 115,000,000 1866 38,000,000 135,000,000 1867 42,000,000 147,000,000 1868 41,500,000 155,000,000 1869 37,000,000 143,000,000 1870 34,000,000 135,000,000 1871 32,000,000 128,000,000 Exports. Imports. To 1868. 365. The exports of woollens have not been of sufficient importance to need a Table here. But the imports have been of importance. I have extracted the following Tables from Mr. Gros- venor's "Does Protection Protect?" — ■UNITED STATES. 733 I a ^ o ""• o ^ 1 eM M O &• W3 3 W s rt Fh P H •^ f ) <1 (n li( P ;zi -riftGoea"c^^"c»farr-rtoi.-CMejoCTH'o'o'catn'--^' Oi in ^ (M o CO tN i-O O 1^ iO CJ in o o l>. 1-^ t^ ^ o ooeo.-ieaoit^-Tj*»>.iniftTt*ococi(NCOoo l>.t^^J>»0a»nOiraC0r000OiftCjcscsco»«p— . oej»ncao'^tooios«)ocir- (Tf.i>.i— ip— (CO-^ocB • irTeo'tCtCM'tOi^cotoom^T-rorrHco-^criCQoo <:£5COCOCOOO«DOiOQO>^ait>*i-HiOOii-iCOOSCOI>.I>. OiOlO..-H ,00COt— '■— tOiOltDOt-mCDOtOi— (COtOirt'^eOOO'^fO ■ i>Cil^irar-rr-reOrH'rH*l>rortO«'^MlftC^OO'il^cJrHOrr-r CCrH-^i— IQOC»)OMiO.~IOTOCOC*li-(rHCO"*Tt.if5tOCJOSQ0Q0-^rH— lOuO I-40— iOtOCD»f3COtNrH!^oqt>- • ofco"o5CNC4'tD"oo'"^Ci[ri>ro''cCl>r 0<»t0i— il>..CO<£'Oirt^«3irtCO i-Hi-HOlCai— li-HCOi— 'i— IN i-irH a '3 J >.i-' ^^.^ ■— ' "J J.-* ^^ >JJ "iT ii-rf w t-f* •—• \JJ U.J -sp ^;_j uj sij (,-vj uu 1—1 i^j uj trg cf3 ^»-s.(NirtrH^.a>(0«ococoi>*ooNincoeMi>»i'>.co»ftcj ■^C0OOJ.-^"^0l0Jc000mi0m'^t^CDMCSeO0S»0l>.CTiJ>.O"* i^«^cO«3t^l>-CTiOSCOO^-^COincOO^COiOOCSO-^CDC^OOSi05CT»OinOeOiOOcOCOWOI>.«3'tN.COrH'irai-H'cJrH O3C0r— lrH^Oa0I>.«O(r0C0(N.if3C0Ot^l>»eO^O--# rHTJ-COCOCOi-HCOCOfNi— ICOW-^COC£>l-^r-^CO !»*>. "o •^■-H-^ CO r-H t>.CO-^V5 -^ O Cr0?eDt0o"pH't0r-rTi*C0' ,iOcOOOtDrHi-HrHOieOT*1"*}i-^^-^J.tDl-^er> nf}OJCsOC>ini>«'^*>'OSCOTtocoeoooor-Heoo'^ iOcoo'Oo-sj*"^^eoNrooco^tCTpo-^r-H [3531 i-HC^eO*^>ft^I>iai010rHWeOi!j.ODCSOrH(MeCrftrt oDooooaJoooOQooocooOQOQOQoooooaiaooocxjiSmMMSS 3 D 734 TJNITED STATES. Imports of Wool and Woollens. In 1869 to 1872. By decades since 1830. Year. Unmanufactured. Carpets. Other Manu- Value of factures. Manufactures. Quantity. Value, Dols. Dols. Dols. Dols. ~' 1841 15,006,410 , , , , 11,001,939 1842 11,420,258 8,375,725 1843 3,517,100 2,472,154 1844 14,008,000 ., , , ,, 9,475,702 1845 23,833,040 , , 10,666,176 1846 16,558,247 1,134,226 253,543 9,830,307 10,083,850 1847 8,460,109 555,822 689,881 10,709,052 10,998,933 1848 , 11,341,429 857,034 643,187 14,597,696 15,240,883 1849 17,869,022 1,177,347 493,058 13,211,548 13,704,606 1850 18,669,794 1,681,691 790,604 16,360,905 17,151,509 1851 32,548,461 3,833,157 996,781 18,510,528 19,507,309 1852 18,341,298 1,930,711 730,967 16,842,727 17,573,694 1853 21,599,079 2,669,718 1,217,279 26,404,632 27,621,911 1854 20,200,110 2,822,185 2,268,815 30,113,779 32,382,594 1855 18,534,415 2,072,139 1,506,577 22,897,572 24,404,149 1856 14,737,393 1,665,064 2,212,"318 29,749,475 31,961,793 1857 16,502,060 2,125,744 2,181,290 29,104,828 31,286,118 1858 n.cf 1 m Q fp/I 4,022,635 1,542,600 24,943,491 26,486,091 1859 J J^a LilJLlaLCU. 1 95,000,000 4,444,954 2,200,164 31,321,792 33,521,956 1860 4,842,152 2,542,523 35,394,422 37,936,945 1861 36,000,000 , , , . ,, 28,2()1,039 1862 43,571,025 , , , , , , 14,881,394 1863 73,897,807 . . , . 20,411,625 1864 90,396,104 • , .. 32,139,336 1865 43,858,154 .. .. 20,347,563 1866 67,917,031 10,068,533 2,854,097 54,261,804 57,115,901 1867 33.482,155 5,565,279 45,776,475 1868 24,474,307 3,868,137 2,766,291 29,694,593 32,460,884 These TaMes show the importation to 1868 ; the follow- ing are the figures to the present year : — 1869. 1870. 1871. 1872. Dols. Dols. Dols. Dols. Clotlis and cassimeres 7,688,348 9,543,911 10,902,761 14,159,774 Woollen rags, mungo, waste. and flocks 69,317 65,864 87,667 232,211 Shawls 1,942,793 2,035,502 2,160,037 3,424,349 Blankets . , 22,854 17,481 28,050 38,785 Carpets 4,261,258 4,041,971 4,691,061 5,727,183 Dress goods 15,463,942 16,552,393 18,586,874 20,439,481 Hosiery, sMrt, and drawers 466,368 506,209 538,770 658,193 Manufactures unspecified 4,938,730 5,479,122 6,844,420 7,728,495 Raw wool, fleece, &c. 7,170,495 7,278,745 9,780,443 26,214,195 Mr. J. E. Dodge, of the Bepartment of Agriculture, gave, in a paper read hy him in 1871, the following Tables. The first shows aggregate and average impor- tation of wooUens for each decade from 1820 ; and the secbnd, the quantity and value of shoddy imported for- ten years : — UNITED STATES. 735 Imports of Woollens. Aggregate. Annual Range. Ten years ending in 1830 . 1840 . 1850 . 1860 . 1870 . Dollars. 86,182,110 129,336,258 109,023,552 282,682,830 320,340,346 Dollars. 8,618,211 12,933,625 10,902,355 28,268,283 32,034,034 Total in fifty years 927,565,096 Imports of Shoddy. Years. Lbs. Value. Price Per lb. Dollars. Cents. 1862 ., 6,291,077 442,376 7-0 1863 .. 7,867,601 581,234 7-3 1864 .. 8,133,391 621,514 7-6 1865 .. 4,863,064 410,395 8-4 1866 .. 7,147,108 589,490 8-2 1867 .. 5,220,296 518,479 9-9 1868 .. 556,414 49,649 8-9 1869 .. 832,283 68,103 8-1 1870 .. 512,792 55,009 10-7 Total . . 41,424,026 3,336,249 Average . 4,602,669 370,694 8-0 Imports of Shoddy. 4. Present Position. 366. The present position of the wooUen industry, Present as distinguished from the worsted, carpet, and hosiery p"^^'"""' industries, is in most particulars the same as in 1870. in i87o. The following abstract by Mr. Gr. "W. Bond, of Boston, of the 1870 Census, shows the main details of that posi- tion in a compact form : — 3 D 2 736 UNITED STATES. tf V .a -tJ § OS o m o ^ o -S Ti 02 s nui ^ 0) o •a ^ p 'B a> ^ ^ . of to rH 11 Lbs. 85,614,505 40,920,880 3.501,289 25,811,728 1 ■«< 00 in m I Dols. 52,865,725 25,559,732 2,405,253 17,544,833 eo lO in t> eo 00 OS o -g Dols. 87,901,893 44,890,973 2,485,826 19,548,713 00 in Dols. 55,377,506 27,893,573 1,534,730 11,670,071 O CM 00 o t>. «? OS il Dols. 15,667,487 7,628,252 348,247 3,033,721 O CM n; )as jgd i^ioedBg to -^ Oi N O O <0 C3 •spjEO JO E)3g JO Jaqran^i rt N -* ift in CO OJ to CO CO m o co" ef cf CM 00 ■s}nainqsr[qB?sa JO J8qcan\; .# t^ OS eft to . 2 to lO CO .^ CO o CO Eastern States, . Middle States . . Southern States. Western States . P H O < ft < W O t— ( Eh CA < J n 00 «D t^ t* CM « to O 00 eo *^ CM 00 eo ta 00 rH 's riage lbs." CM Tt< tN. O *>. ■^ !>. to o in . o 00 r« 00 (-H m - 1 n -. « •fl I-H O OS O I— I >- to rH O CM -H ^ in 00 eo C4 r-i r^ O CO CM CO cm" • • • m "a •2 2 „ 11 111 . OS CO lO OS (N W O OS !>. "^ ■«* 'o -^if3 o in ^ a . CD CO o OS 00 in :S S fl 5 g UNITED STATES. 737 Of the establishments enumerated many are for carding wool or dressing cloth only, especially in the West and South, where the so-called Custom Mills are numerous, and prepare the " rolls " for weaving by the farmers' wives, or dress their cloth. The capacity of the machinery is for a production 50 per cent, greater than in 1870, or probably in 1872, so that it is unlikely that that capacity will be much increased at present. On the other hand, the worsted industry has a much more valuable position now than in 1870, and neither the carpet nor the hosiery industries have stood still. The following Table of particulars of the knit goods mills at of knit goods Cohoes, New York State, in ] 870— in which Table the ■»* ^°^''^'- production and corresponding details should be increased for the present date, — will show the position attained in some ten years for the category of woven undershirts, drawers, and stockings : — Knitting Mills. Name. Capital. a 1 bo a o Value of Materials. Value of Produc- tion, Dols. Dols. Dols. Dols. Troy Maimfactaring Com- pany 100,000 100 54,000 10 172,721 233,505 Starr Knitting Company . 100,000 75 54,000 11 127,653 195,363 J. G. Root and Sons (Trivoli) . . 150,000 80 48,633 11 128,222 250,000 J. H. Parsons and Co. , . 150,000 100 70,000 12 220,827 360,000 Bogue and Wager (River- side) 100,000 75 30,000 10 77,278 140,000 Empire Knitting Com- pany 15,000 40 12,000 11 57,600 66,000 Scott and Stewart (Stark) 12,000 25 26,000 11 40,000 75,000 Belborongh and Son (Mo- hawk) 50,000 50 23,000 31,400 44,000 Erie Mills 30,000 70 8,466 5 26,300 50,000 Gregorys and Hiller (American) . , 5,000 36 22,000 10 70,300 120,000 Victor Mills . . 75,000 40 18,000 10 55,000 80,000 J. W. Himes and Co. . . 30,000 75 18,000 10 44,000 70,000 Jno. Wakeman 100,000 65 45,000 11 72,000 170,000 Ranken Knitting Com- pany 50,000 75 23,372 8 52,800 115,000 Alaska Manufacturing Company , . 10,000 15 15,000 12 36,000 68,000 Ontario 50,000 40 15,000 10 63,000 90,000 Clifton 100,000 80 37,116 5i 80,021 156,300 Geo. Warhurst (Atlantic) 30,000 25 15,775 12 39,826 62,058 Total, 1 8 mills 1,157,000 1,066 535,362 1,394,948 2,345,226 As regards the carpet industry I beg to quote from Of carpet industry. 738 ■UNITED STATES. Capacity of worsted mills in 1872. Merino Industry. Mr. Hayes' article in 1872, on United States' wools, the following paragraph : — " Mr. Myers, in his effectiye speech in the House of Representatives, asserts that 7,000 persons are now employed in the city of Philadelphia in the manufacture of; L these carpets upon hand-looms, and that they use or» imported wool. The 'Industrial Protector,' puh- -li«ned in Philadelphia, gives, from facts furnished by a former secretary of the Carpet- Weavers' Asso- ciation of Great Britain, the statement that there are in Philadelphia between 4,000 and 5,000 hand-looms ^engaged on ingraia, Dutch, and Venetian carpets, about nine-tenths of which are working on ingrains ; and that the productive power in the United States is 5,200 looms and 800 power-looms, equal to 2,000 hand-looms, making a total production of 7,200 hand-looms ; while the totsd productive power of England is only 2,100 looms." Unless this latter statement be restricted to a par- ticular class of carpets, I may mention that I think I have seen carpet power-looms, at Halifax, for instance, and that there must be some mistake about the 2,100 English hand-looms. The capacity in wool of the worsted mills was esti- mated in 1872 as follows : — Lbs. At Lawrence, Mass. . . . . . . 5,760,000 Manchester, N. H. . . . . . . 1,800,000 Lowell, and vicinity . . . . . . 1,500,000 Providence, and vicinity . . . • 2,500,000 Southbridge, Norwich, &c. .. .. 1,200,000 Philadelphia (all firms) .. .. 3,000,000 Sundries .. .. ' .. .. 250,000 Total 16,000,000 This includes delaine wool. It was stated that the sources of the wool were — Lbs. Canada (combing wool) . . . . . . 3,000,000 England (ditto) . United States (ditto) „ (delaine wool) Other sources (all wools) . 2,000,000 2,500,000 7,000,000 1,500,000 The merino industry is likely to be added. Mr. E. R. Mudge, in his Report (1870) on the 1867 Paris Exhibi- tion, says : — " The manufacturers of Rheims regard the United UNITED STATES. 739 States as the most important outlet for their goods. Our late war seriously affected their trade. They speak of the American crisis as having weighed so heavily upon it that the influence of the Anglo-Prench Treaty upon commerqial transactions was of comparatively little moment. The value of this trade is a sufficient induce- ment for us to transfer to our own shores the industry of fabricating merinos, which is dominant at E-heims. It can he adopted here with all its recent perfections, and without any of the drawbacks which weigh so heavily upon it in Prance. It is fitted for the skilled female labour already developed in our woollen mills. It will be favoured by the character of the wools most advan- tageously grown here, and will greatly increase the production of sheep husbandry by creating an entirely new demand, and will introduce into more general use the softest and most beautiful of all fabrics for female use." The worsted, blanket, and carpet industries are worsted, supposed to be favoured by the tariff. Whether this ea^t flo'^th- be so or not these industries are certainly flourishing, ing. except, perhaps, as regards the worsted in certain lustre fabrics requiring the finest combing wool. The position in general of the industries connected with wool has been sufficiently indicated in the course of this Report by the variety of products, the improvements of machinery, the use of domestic foreign wools, the cost of labour, and the cost of production. In manufacturing worsteds large strides are being taken, and in manufac- turing woollens important improvements are being in- troduced. Eor the former the Crompton loom and the *' Excelsior " spinning, with ring and traveller, and improved sawyer spindle will, it is expected, effect a marvellous change. 367. But, on the other hand, the woollen manufac- WooUen turer has undoubtedly suffered from depression. Mr. W. '^^p''^^^'^- E<. Robinson thus stated the case in the " Bulletin " last year : — "Probably no branch of industry in the United statement of States has been subject to so much instability as the manufacture of woollen goods. There have been periods when woollen manufacturers have prospered, especially during the war, when all that apparently was necessary for success was to turn out the largest quantity of case. 740 UNITED STATES. goods, and everything was in demand. And if we look back over the history of the American woollen manu- facture, we find that almost every woollen establishment of any considerable size or importance has passed into other hands than those of its projectors, at a price very much reduced from the first cost. On this reduced price, sometimes large dividends have been paid, and the public have pointed to that fact as an evidence of the prosperity of woollen mills ; and those parties having possession of establishments acquired at this reduced figure during a period of comparative prosperity and fair profits have been considered capable manufacturers, and their successes have been illustrations by which the public have judged the prosperity of our whole woollen interest, forgetting that large dividends on one-third the cost of an establishment would appear very small on the first or original cost. " There is one thing, however, that all who are in- terested in the manufacture of woollens will agree to, viz., that for the last five years the business in the aggregate has been depressed, and that the profits made during the war have been exhausted mainly, and that it has been extremely diflcult during all this time to buy Vool and manufacture it into goods and get a new dollar for an old one. Now what are the causes which have led to this state of affairs ? Why is it that during this time cotton mills have been doing well? Why is it that cotton mills are being built on all sides, and the demand continues so good for almost all classes or kinds of cotton fabrics ? Among other causes the greatest probably are the following : — " During the whole period of the war, most of the cotton mills were obliged to suspend for the want of the raw material. At one time it was said there was not a single spindle in operation in the whole of Lowell. Many of the cotton - mill companies in Lowell and elsewhere, seeing such a demand for woollens by both the Government and the people generally, and seeing at the same time their own machinery idle, and seeing no immediate prospect of the close of the war, came to the conclusion to turn a portion of their establishments to the manufacture of woollens. Expensive machitiery was bought and put in operation. In addition to this, woollen mills generally were continually increasing their capacity UNITED STATES. 741 for production ; and operatires being plenty in conse- quence of the stoppage of the cotton mills, every set of woollen macMnery was run so as to produce the largest quantity of goods. In many cases machinery was run night and day. The Government called continually for enormous quantities of goods, and every machine was driven to its utmost capacity. The large number of mills run to supply the armies in the field left full occupation for those other mills that were making goods for the general wants of the country. The woollen manufacture was prosperous, and appeared likely to continue so. The machinery of the country was more than doubled during the duration of the war. " Well, the war, happily for the country, came to a successful end. The South, after a short interval, being bare of goods, came into the market, and bought largely ; and though immediately after the close of the war prices declined materially, yet this demand from the South caused a recovery in part, and served to stimulate the ordering of more woollen machiuery, to be added to the previous large increase during the war. " In 1866, however, it was found that the Govern- ment had an immense quantity of woollens on hand, of all descriptions, — more than could be used by the reduced army of the United States for several generations ; and as such goods are always liable to be eaten by moths. Government has been obliged to dispose of the large surplus ; and the sales at auction each year have tended to reduce the price of woollens sold by the general trade. We see even to-day great numbers of those sky-blue uniform overcoats worn by horse-car drivers, teamsters, and truckmen all over the country. How much longer the Government goods for sale will hold out, or whether it is already exhausted, we have no means of knowing. But these sales, added to the enormous capacity of the machinery of the country for production, to say nothing of the excessive importations, have left year by year large quantities of goods to be carried over, which has acted like a bear in the market, and depressed prices so that though there may have been individual cases where a fair business has been done, yet, on the whole, the woollen interest has lost heavily every year since the fall of 1866. " Now, what of the future ? Is this state of depres- 742 "UNITED STATES. sion going to continue ? Are woollen njills to go on losing money year by year till the business becomes well-nigh, abandoned ? On the score of economy, nothing more probably can be done ; for never was any branch of industry carried on more economically than the manufacture of woollens in the larger portion of the mills of the country. Nothing is wasted, but every- thing is used in one shape or another ; and anything not suitable for one kind of goods is put into another, or sold to some other party at a fair price. There is no nation in the world that puts so much good sound wool into the goods made as the cloth manufacturers of the United StMes. The American wool is as strong and good of the kind as that of the growth of any other country on the face of the globe. And though other countries may grow finer staple wools and wool with better felting properties, yet our manufacturers and importers bring that wool here; and it enters largely into goods made in connection with wools of domestic growth, improving both, perhaps, and giving a better fabric. " One element that works against the American manufacture is the sentiment of the American people ia favour of foreign fabrics. We hear on aU sides that there is a certain something about foreign goods that makes them different from American goods, , or that American manufacturers do not get. There is un- doubtedly a certain something different : so there is something different between the handwriting of different countries. The English differs from ours, both differ from the French, and they all differ from the German. This difference does not make one handwriting better than the others. Nor does this something different make the foreign goods any better. " Let a man go into a merchant tailor's shop in London, and inquire for a piece of German goods for a suit of clothes. He wiU find the man behiad the counter will look at him in blank astonishment, while he replies that they do not keep them, as English goods are so much better. Go iato a fashionable tailoring establishment here, and the proprietor tells you that he does not keep American goods at all, that there are no goods fit to be worn made in this country, and he would not have them in his shop. This shows the different UNITED STATES. 743 feeling of the two countries towards their own industries, and arises mainly from the fact, as far as the tailors are concerned, that they can charge much larger prices, and get much larger profits, in making a suit of clothes of the foreign article, than from an American fabric. " The writer once went into a fashionable tailor's shop in Boston, and was shown all the goods he had, and was informed that everything was from the best foreign makes— not a single piece of American igoods in the store, — that he never kept them ; that he had a piece or so some years previously, but it caused him so much dissatisfaction that he came to the conclusion never to buy any more, and had adhered to the resolu- tion, and his customers were always satisfied. On leaving the store, the writer politely informed this tailor that many of the goods shown by him were of American make, and, moreover, some of them had been made by the writer himself." In the course of the criticisms upon Mr. David causes of "Wells' Report in 1869 by the Executive Committee of depression. the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, it was stated in opposition to Mr. Wells' opinion, that the depression in the wool-growing and manufacturing interest was mainly owing to the glutting of the markets of the world with wool, and to the over-production of American mills, caused by the war. The over-produc- tion in these branches exists " because the machinery called into operation by the necessities of war and by the cotton famine still exceeds the normal demand in time of peace." The manufacturers did not admit that the tariff had in any way caused their difiiculties. The views of the revenue reformers as to the causes of the depression were, in the words of Mr. Grosvenor's " Does Protection Protect ? '' as follows : — " Three causes have combined to that end : There has been a large increase here in the manufacture of those goods of which, prior to Protection, consumption was mainly or wholly supplied by our own mills, rather than of those of which consumption was not so supplied. The cost of production here has been increased, while the cost of the raw material elsewhere, partly because of our tariff, has been greatly reduced. The cotton manu- facture has recovered from its extreme depression during the war. 744 TJNITEB STATES. "To a considerable extent, tlie woollen and tlie cotton manufacture compete to supply the same con- sumption. When the supply of cotton failed during the war, the woollen manufacture was very largely increased. A similar increase, less in degree, occurred in other countries, where the consumption of cotton was checked. In this and in other countries an enormous demand for wool was created, and production rapidly increased. But the revival of the cotton supply and manufacture after the war diminished the consumption of woollen goods, and the supply exceeded the demand. Conse- quently, in other countries as well as in this, the woollen manufacture has been reduced or compelled to accept lower prices, and the wool grower has also been com- pelled to reduce production, or sell at lower rates. " When this cause began in all countries to affect both the growth and manufacture of wool, people in other countries adjusted their industry to the facts. If they could sell at lower prices or manufacture more cheaply, they did so. But in this country they went to Govern- ment for aid. Already both grower and manufacturer had been aided, first by the Morrill Protective Tariff of 1861 — as perfect a piece of work of its kind as ever was devised — and, that having failed, by the higher Tariff of 1864. Instructed thus to rely upon legislation to cure all industrial ills, they asked and obtained a still higher duty in 1866, and finally the Wool Tariff, framed by wool growers and manufacturers, the blessings of which we and they now experience. How higher duties could be expected to increase consumption, or relieve a market already overstocked with the wools and goods mainly produced here, we do not see. But, in some such strange hope. Congress granted the extreme duties desired, and grower and manufacturer were permitted to ruin themselves at the public expense. " When the cotton supply fell short, and prices of wooUen goods went extravagantly high, many people were attracted to the growth and manufacture of wool. Quite naturally, they preferred to grow that class of wool which had been found most profitable here, instead of other qualities more really needed, but less profitable. The manufacturer, also, having promise of control of the home market, preferred to make goods for which our wool was suitable, rather than those which required the UNITED STATES. 745 use of foreign wools bearing high duties. Thus both growth and manufacture progressed rapidly in one direction, without extending greatly in others. Of wools which we naturally produce because they are supposed to be the most profitable, we produced more. Of goods which we naturally make because they can be made of American wools, we produced more; and of these wools and woollens, the supply quickly equalled or exceeded the demand. But, for other wools and other qualities of woollen goods, we remained as depen- dent as ever upon foreign supply. This did not please legislators, nor yet gentlemen who wanted to exclude foreign products entirely, and, therefore, duties were raised still higher. This promised larger profits, and accordingly more people rushed into the growing of the same wools and the manufacture of the same goods. Then the markets were overstocked, and losses followed, whUe we contiaued as dependent as before, for other goods and wools, upon foreign supply. Now, Protection makes it the business of Government to apply a remedy whenever any protected interest is losing. Wherefore, the remedy was applied — higher duties. "With special determination to shut out foreign wools, on mestiza, then selling at 13 cents in gold, a duty of 11^ cents was imposed. To help the manufacturer, duties of 50 cents per lb. and 35 per cent, ad valorem were imposed on the goods. These promised great profits, and more people still began to grow the same wools and to manufacture the same goods. And now we have factories idle or for sale, and sheep slaughtered by the million. Yet we are still importing wool and woollens to the value of over 40,000,OOOZ. ; for the manufacture, extended mainly in those directions in which we do not compete with foreign products, has but slightly diminished our importations." In March last Mr. Daniel Wells addressed a letter to present the " Tribune " of New York upon the present condition depression. of the wool industry. It appears that in January last it was proposed, at a meeting of the National Association of Woollen Manufacturers, to discontinue the operation of 1,000 sets of machinery, involving the labour of some 16,000 hands, in order to " relieve the market of the , oppression under which it suffers." The worsted re- presentatives, who do not seem to experience the sarae difficulties as the woollen manufacturers, opposed the 746 UNITED STATES. proposal, and it was finally thrown out, " but it received, nevertheless, the signatures of manufacturers represent- ing between 200 and 300 sets, whUe nearly or quite as many who were absent from the meeting were known to have pledged their names whenever the agreement should be presented to them." " In reference to this proposed action, the ' New York Economist and Dry Goods Reporter,' which, to a certaia extent, is regarded as the organ of the woollen iaterest,. expresses itself in a recent issue as foUows : — " ' Where lies hid the adoption of any movement that will give relief to the market by clearing up the over- stock, advancing prices, or compellLiig wool to decHae ? Stop your cards. Stop your looms. Stop your machi- nery. Shut down your gates for one, two, four, or six months, if it is necessary. But stop for some time. Wool to-day is higher than eight months since, yet prices of goods are actually lower than twelve months since. Relief can be had only by reducing production, which end can only be accomplished by stopping the cards. We have persistently advocated this policy for eighteen months.' " That the action recommended by ' The Economist * is likely to be brought about by necessity, if not by agreement, the follovring additional evidence, reported by various leading woollen manufacturers of the country, is submitted. " Under date of September 13, 1873, one of the largest and most siujcessfiol woollen manufacturers of New England writes. : — " ' Mr. Edmunds, as a representative of the worsted interest, may well be satisfied with the operation of the TarifP of 1867, as that and the carpet interest have had all the chestnuts which the clothing interest pulled out, of the fire. The carpet mills get their wool at a nominal rate, and have an excesssve duty on their productei. The worsted fabrics are protected by a heavy duty, and labour is a large item of their cost. " ' The clothing interest has not been in so precarious a condition for many years. The failures have been many, and the successful mills comparatively few. There is a very general and well-founded distrust in regard to credits among the wool-sellers, such as has seldom, been known., Take the largest mills in the UNITED STATES. 74j7 country as an example. The Washington (formerly the Bay State Mills of Lawrence) are reported to hare lost a large amount the past year, and they now contemplate stopping a lairge portion of their machinery, or changing it to cotton. The Middlesex also made their dividend fpom their reserve fund, haviag made no profits. " ' Mr. A. T. Stewart's various mills are running one- third time, and any mill that does that must do so at a loss. " ' The 10 per cent, reduction on wools from beyond the Oape of Good Hope was a slight benefit to the importers in the United States, as it allowed them to make their selections in London without making a larger venture from Australia. But, at the same time, it was of far greater benefit to the London merchants, as giving them the entire control of their Colonial wools, iacluding aU the profits of freights and commissions. A free importation of wool from Australia to San Francisco, with return freights of flour and grain, would do more for our commerce on the Pacific than all the subsidies our Government could grant to steamships. " ' One result of our Tariff of 1867 has been to build up a most prosperous wool-manufacturing industry in Canada. The most intelligent men there attribute their Success entirely to that measure. The woollen machi- nery of the country is apparently diminishing in quan- tity, though I have no statistics to prove this. There are no new enterprises, and many old mUls are stopping or wearing out. If any industry was ever killed with kindness and taxed out of existence by Protection, surely this has been.' " A well-knovm manufacturer of Central New York, under date of March 3, also thus expresses himself : — • " ' A 13-set mill, at Seneca Palls has been standing idle since October, 1871. There is a 5-set mill in Auburn which has been idle about a year. This mill is offered for sale, with tenements, lands, &c. I hear that it can be had for about two-fifths of what the mill and machinery would cost to buUd. The "Waterloo Woollen Company has not been running to its fuU capacity during the past year. An agent travelling for J. H. and N. A. Williams, Utica, New York, dealers in manufacturers' supplies, told me that out of seventeen mills he recently visited in Ohio, I think, only five were 748 UNITED STATES. at work, and tliat in all the Western States the same state of affairs existed of wMcli this was a sample. " ' A large concern has great advantages over a small one, inasmuch as it can and does control capital, and can buy wool and other stock when the market favottrs, to keep at work for twelve to eighteen months ahead. Por a few years previous to the latter part of 1871, domestic wool ruled at from 40 c. to 50 c. It then began to rise until it reached 70 c. to 75 c. ia January and February, 1872. In July and August it was 55 c. and less : since then it has been 65 c. to 70 c. Now it is steadily on the decline, for very good reasons. It is safe to say that not more than one-half of our mills are in the bands of competent persons practically qualified to run them to the best advantage. But suppose they were thoroughly competent, very many of them would be unable to stand the strain which the facts regarding prices of wool show is liable to come upon tjiem by the operation of certain causes in conjunction with ^he tariff as it is, and from which the foreign manufaictui'er is wholly exempt. In fact, by our practical exclusion of foreign wool, the foreign manufacturers are,^le to buy it at much below the average of what they would have to pay were our ports opened as freely to its entry as their own are. It may be safely assumed that more than one-half of the woollen mills of the country yet running would be eagerly sold by their owners for less than 50 c. on the dollar of thek cost, and those not at work at a much less figure.' " So much in evidence of the opinions and experience of at least two of the representative woollen manufac- turers of the country. On the other hand, an application for information to two of the leading houses in the country dealing in domestic woollens, jobbing or com- mission, elicited the following responses, under dates of February 20 and 22 respectively : — "No. 1 writes : — " ' It is stated on good authority that the directors of the Washington Mills, of Lawrence, in which the original all-wool ' Bay State ' shawl was first made, and which has been struggling to maintain an all-wool manufacture, having become dissatisfied with their results lately, and particularly last year (1872), are considering the giving up of the woollen business and UNITED STATES. 749 tmraing their machinery over to cotton. This establish- inent has heretofore been regarded as one of the most successful in the country.* " ' Eor the same reason the Salisbury Mills, of Ames- bury, Massachusetts, liave determined to stop at once 50 per cent, of their machinery. The celebrated Harris Mills, 50 sets, formerly owned by Edward Harris, deceased, situated at Woonsocket, Rhode Island, are to be closed as soon as they can make arrangements. " ' The Boston fire caused the failure of one woollen commission house in that city, and the very moderate loss suffered by them revealed bankruptcy on their part and on the part of eight or nine large woollen factories for which they had been making advances. It is reported that 80 sets of machinery wiU be permanently retired by this failure. " ' An 8-set mill, at MillviUe, Massachusetts, failed some months since, and has not resumed business. " ' A large satinet manufactory in Eaton, Massachu- setts, failed within a few days, owing over 20,000 dollars. " ' A 12-set mill in Worcester, Massachusetts, the " Adriatic," contemplates a suspension of manufacturing. " ' and Co., of Boston, who have been doing quite a large business as agents of woollen mills, have concluded to give up that branch of their business, considering that it involves too much risk. " ' We have to-day conversed with a very trustworthy gentleman, who has travelled five or six times every year for several weeks during each of the past fifteen or eighteen years, in the woollen manufacturing districts of New England. He has just returned to-day from an extensive trip among these manufacturers. He states that he has never found them so discouraged with their efforts and with their prospects for the future as they are now. They are most of them ready to turn their ma- chinery to anything which they could work — cotton, flax, or anything by which they could make any money. He thinks that at least three-fourths of these manufacturers would be willing to-day to sell out their goods, machinery, &c., at a very large reduction on their January inventory. " ' He has talked with the largest, most intelligent, and most wealthy woollen manufacturers in this part of * I am not aware of any such a change being likely to take place. — J. P. H. G. [353] 3 E 750 UNITED STATES. the country, and they all agree that a large reduction in the present high tariff on raw wool is the only thing that will give them relief and resuscitate this most important, expiring interest of the country.' " No. 2 writes : — " ' We know particularly of one of the sharpest and most careful small manufacturers of the country who made during 1871, he states, 18,000 doUars on his year's business, who in the year past lost all of that amoimt and 3,000 dollars besides, in aU 21,000 dollars. He manufactures fancy cassimeres, and is a close, sharp manager. " ' An 18-set mill near , New York, making fancy cassimeres, fine, handsome goods, has not made any money during the past year ; so its treasurer stated to us a day or two ago. Since the failure of a well- known commission house, doing a large business in the sales of wooUen goods, we have heard of the faUure of three of the manufacturers who consigned their goods to this firm. Of these, one offers his creditors 20 per cent, of his indebtedness, another 16 per cent., and the third has no assets at all, and it is said can pay nothing. Manufacturers have been generally complaining of hard times since the early autumn of 1872. Raw wool in the country, in Ohio, for example, which, when the clipping took place in June last, was sold at 70 c. to 75 c, gradually settled down to 50 c. to 52^ c, and has fluctuated since between these figures and 62^. This declining and unsettled market on the raw material had the usual effect on prices obtainable for the manufac- tured woollen goods. Erices were inclined downward, too, and it was generally conceded were not remunerative. Besides this, our importations of woollen cloths and cassimeres for the first eight months of 1872 were SO per cent, in excess of the same period of 1871.' . " To all this ' The Economist and Dry Goods Reporter ' of January adds : — " ' The woollen manufacturers during the past year passed thirough one of the most tryiug^ periods the interest has ever experienced. High cost material and low prices for goods ruled without exception, the latter being greatly increased by the large competition offering in a dull market. " ' Erom the beginning of the year to its close, our UNITED STATES. 751 •constant efforts were to induce a curtailment of produc- tion by any method possible. Manufacturers by their actions chose a different path, and endeavoured to cheapen the cost of production by an increased production rather than enhance the price of goods by reducing the supply. With the close of the production of autumn goods many mills, however, shut down, as to continue to run at the prevailing prices for goods would be suicidal in the extreme. By this action, though taken late in the day, we find about 300 sets of machinery idle ; yet, notwith- standing this curtailment of production, and the large destruction at the Boston fire, heavy goods can be pur- chased to-day at a less price than for many years. " ' The present tariff has failed to give that protection to the interest that was intended.' " The monthly wool circular of Walter Brown and Sons, of New York, issued March 1, 1873, in reviewing the record of the preceding month, Eebruary, has also this significant sentence : — " ' Eurther failures among manufacturers have oc- curred during the month, which tend to heighten the distrust felt by commission houses in accepting risks.' "The following additional notice of changes in the -woollen manufacture are taken from journals of recent 4ate : — " ' The Namaske Mills, at Nashua, New Hampshire, have taken out their woollen and substituted cotton machinery, because raw wool worth 42 c. last June now sells for 75 c, and there has been no equivalent enhancement in the average price of woollen fabrics.' — ' New York Tribune.' " ' Warehouse Point, Connecticut. — J. H. Simons, who bought the woollen mill, has sold the machinery, and will refit for other manufacturing.' — ' Springfield B/C- publican.' " ' Two large manufacturing establishments in or neiar Providence, Bhode Island, are about to be offered for sale — the Arkwright Mills, with thirty-six tenements and 140 acres of land, and the woollen mills of Messrs. Babcock and Moss, at Westerly.' — ' New York Dry Goods Bej^orter.' " ' It is thought the woollen business at Amesbiiry and Salisbury, Massachusetts, has not been at so low a a 3 E 2 752 UNITED STATES. ebb for fifteen years as at tbe present time.' — ' New York Dry Goods B/eporter.' " ' Tbe Marland Manufacturing Company, Andoyer, Massachusetts, ceased to operate their woollen factory about January 1. The Company have voted to settle their affairs and sell the entire property. The Company was incorporated in 1834, and has been very successful in past years. It has eleven sets of machinery, a valuable water-power and buildings, with about 40 acres of land.' — ' New York Dry Goods Reporter.' " To this list of displacements and suspensions should clso be added the ' King Woollen Company ' mill of Occum, Connecticut (reported in the list of tbe Woollen Manufacturers' Association in March, 1872), sold for less than 30 per cent, of its cost, and converted into a cotton miU." Mr. Wells gives, from his point of view, the ex- planation of this depression, as above shown : — "The explanation of this singular phenomenon is that the doctrine of Protection has been ' run into the ground,' and in attempting to protect every thing, we have so raised the prices of every constituent of manu- facturing industry that, except in the case of a few articles — like worsteds and carpets, in respect to which the tariff is a juggle and a fraud — we protect nothing ; that we have deprived; the American woollen manu- facturer of the immeasurable advantage enjoyed by the manufacturer of all other countries, namely, that of a free choice of raw material, without which he can no more make good and cheap cloth than the Israelites could make good bricks without straw ; and, finally, that by the conjoined agency of the tariff and a base cur- rency, we have made the United States the poorest of all lands to buy in, but the very best to sell to. Is it any wonder that, under such circumstances, our commeree should vanish from the ocean, our imports continue to increase and our exports continually and comparatively diminish, our woollen industry be prostrate, our paper- miUs, as is now the case, work only half time, and our great agrictdtural interests of the West be forced to pay more for all they buy and take less for all they sell than during almost any previous period of our history; the average price of beef, pork, flour, and com having been UNITED STATES. 753 in the aggregate 9 per cent, less on the 1st of January, 1873, than it was on the 1st of January, 1860, To borrow an expression of the late Mr. Greeley, may we not well exclaim, ' Men and brethren, how long shall this state of things continue ?' " My object in quoting Mr. Eobinson, Mr. Grosvenor, and Mr. Wells is not to attempt to show the causes of this depression of an important industry in several of its branches, but to indicate the fact of the depression, whatever the reasons may be, and to draw the inference that in the woollen manufacture, as distinguished from the worsted, carpet, and hosiery branches, no important No increase increase of capacity is likely soon to occur, and no present' important reduction of prices can be looked for when present prices are not remunerative under present con- ditions. And, moreover, those who are better able than I am to judge of such matters will, perhaps, be able, from the opinions quoted, to determine whether or not, under these conditions, the woollen industry is likely to improve soon its position, and, after supplying every variety of product to the home market, to become soon a competitor with European rivals in other markets. 368. As regards the woollen interests of different parts of the country, inter se, I am able to offer the few following remarks : — The New England and Middle States wooUen may be considered as one section of the country. In !S'^"^'^'^^'" . them it is that the finer goods have, from time to time, anTMidlie" been introduced and successfully manufactured. As in ''t*'^^- cotton fabrics, so in woollen fabrics, they are constantly advancing to the manufacture of fine goods ; yet they hold their own against the West and South in the coarser tissues, and when they do not send their cloth, send them ready-made clothing. In the North- West, the present capacity of production in West, is nearly quadruple that of ten or twelve years ago, excluding the Pacific States from the comparison. The Western mills have two advantages. They can buy home-grown wool at first hand, and sell their manu- factures direct to the consumer. They thus save two freights and several commissions. But if they manu- facture more cloth than is required locally, they can seldom distribute it except through the Eastern dis- tributing centres — usually New York. They cannot, however, as a rule, send their products eastward, as the 754 UNITED STATES. Disadvantages in West. Western mills barter. fpeight is often sufficient to counteract these advantages,, and prevent competition with the Eastern and Middle States. The Western coarse cloth is not Kkely to dis- place in the East the Eastern cloth. In such a competi- tion they have several other disadvantages. In wools they have little choice, even in domestic wools ; whereas the sea-hoard States can even use the more suitable foreign wools at far less cost in freight. The Western fahrics with admixture of foreign wool could seldom compete with the Eastern fabrics of that category. Moreover, in making goods for the million, the demand is not yet concentrated enough in the West to induce any manufacture of shoddy, so that the East, by using shoddy, can manufacture more cheaply than the West. And although Western goods may wear better, this ad- vantage is not always sufficient to sell goods. Then, too^ the Western woollen mills have the disadvantage of a higher interest and less concentrated labour, as I have pointed out in respect of Western cotton mills. Illinois mills have, for instance, the advantage of 5 cents per lb. in wool and of cheaper coal over the East ; but then they have no selection of experts, and so must contend with the other disadvantages. Some of them, too, even in Ohio, are closed during winter. The Western mills depend mainly on their barter with the farmers of cloth for wool — a proceeding which seems mutually advantageous so long as the business is kept within the compass of the local demand. At the Syracuse Convention, in December 1871, it was stated by a gentleman from Wisconsin that " a great advantage to the wool growers of the North- West is the system of direct exchange which it was possible to develop, because the raw material that the wool manufacturer used was so widely distributed. The farmer who raised the sheep needed the cloth which the manufacturer made. At first the middle-men opposed our factories. When Mr. Stewart — a noble man as God ever made — who came from the East with nothing but a good moral character, and a little poor woollen machinery — started his mill, he went to the middle-men and said, 'Will you distribute my woollen goods when I make them ? ' ' No,' they said, 'we can buy better, and we don't want your goods.' What did he do? He went to the farmers and said, ' Send me your wool ; and instead of sending abroad for UNITED STATES, 755 ■what cloths you want, come to me, and I will give you 26 per cent, more for your wool than you can get any- where else.' In this way a system of indirect exchange grew up, and now, at several mills in the North- West, they are actually e^xchanging wool and cloth, under that system, to the extent of 125,000 lbs. of wool a year. The rule at our factory has been to give the farmer the full price for his wool, and, in. addition to that, the advantage of 25 per cent, advance." I have as yet had no opportunity of visiting any of in South. the Southern States ; but from what I can gather, the position of the woollen industry in these States must approach more nearly to that of .those in the West than in the East, with the further disadvantage of the depressed condition of the South. On the Pacific slope the woollen industry is likely, On Pacific from all accounts, to flourish even in the finer goods, as ^^°^^' the wools of CaLLfornia are said to have a peculiar fitness for fine and soft goods. The California MiUs, as they existed in 1868, have been fully referred to in paragraph 326. There are also four in Oregon, manufacturing blankets, flannels, cloths, cassimeres, and tweeds, all of which are said to be of excellent quality. They not only supply the local demand but also Idaho and part of Montana, and have found a ready sale in San Prancisco for these goods. It was stated in the " Bulletin " of 1869, on good authority, that — "Woollen manufacturing is going to increase very rapidly in California and Oregon in the next ten years. We have already sold two sets of machinery complete for a new mill on Puget Sound, Washington Territory ; and I have made estimates for a new 11-set mill in this city, a 5-set one in Santa Clara, a 3-set one in Tulare County, a 3~set one in Sonoma County also, and a 2-set each in Shosta and Visolia. We shall probably order the machinery for one or two of them this spring, and perhaps the rest before faU. Manu- facturing cannot help extending here, and manufacturers cannot well help making money. The cost of manu- facture, with good management, is less, I thinlt , than East (or at any rate it need be no more), and wool (California fall clip) is much cheaper than the same quality East, while the manufactured goods find a ready market ; in fact, most sales are made to supply the local demand. 756 "UNITED STATES. Increased imports. Consumption. Competition abroad. At home. Chinese labour gives the mills here a great advantage. ' John ' is peculiarly adapted to running machinery, and he never ' strikes,' never wants a holiday, never has a sick wife or family, or goes ' on a bender.' Pay him his 25 or 30 dollars a month promptly, and he will work his ten, twelve, or fourteen hours, and average twenty-six days a month out of every twelve the year round. He has no little story to tell, pipe to blow, or horse to swap, or gossip to reel, but knows nothing or nobody except the ' machine-ee.'. We have about 80,000 of them now on the coast, and I know of nothing they can't or don't do." Accordmg to a California newspaper, the Pacific woollen industry had cajised the importation of blankets to cease, and was driving foreign flannel out of the home market even in 1866. The exports of woollen manu- factures are insignificant. The imports both of wool and woollens increased in 1872 by nearly 160 per cent., or over 3,600,000Z. sterling in wool, and nearly 20 per cent., or 1,900,000Z. sterling in woollens, the increase over 1871 having been only half as large. {Vide paragraphs 365.) The present consumption is supposed to be about 250,000,000 dollars, or 46,750,000/. sterling in value, of which three-fourths are produced by the home industry. It should be noted that the disadvantages enumerated in paragraphs 207 to 210 as affiecting generally the cotton industry, affect usually, and sometimes with greater force, the wool industry of the United States. 369. As regards competition abroad, the woollen industry of the United States does not yet seem to be in a condition to compete in any foreign market. What- ever advantages the Tariff system may confer upon the country at large, it obviously increases the price of American woollens to such a relative degree above the price of other woollens, that there can, at present, be no question of any competition beyond the limits of the United States. But as regards competition at home with foreign woollens the following observations can be offered : — Germany, Prance, and England are powerful competitors in the American home market, each in certain categories of fabrics, and of these three, probably, Germany is the most formidable competitor in several respects. She sends, for instance, a shining black cloth, which seUs at 2 dol. 40 c. or 9s. 4^d. per yard, and is UNITED STATES. 757 much, liked; and she also sends over cheaper hosiery than England can. No country, moreover, can imitate the superb Austrian doeskin, with its high finish. But the latter is of small moment, as it is a luxury for the few. With regard to England, it would appear that with England, the English mediums cannot usually come in under the present tariff, the coarse goods being generally excluded. But the finer goods can at all times come in, even at 60 per cent, duty, one of the reasons being that the exclusion of certain wools from the United States has diminished the cost of these avooIs in England. In worsteds, if the anticipation as to the advantages to be in worsted derived from the Orompton loom and the Excelsior spin- keener™™^ ning are realized, a further displacement of foreign goods must take place, unless equivalent advantages can be obtained in the manufacture in Europe. It is "worthy of note, for instance, that the American with lastings. lastings are driving out the foreign articles, even on the Pacific slope. They are manufactured in the East, but hitherto the manufacturers seem to have sold without a profit in order to obtain possession of the market. As regards the competition of American goods Mdth foreign goods in general, I may quote a paragraph from the " Boston Transcript," March 3, 1869 :— "The rapid strides recently taken by American manufacturers in the production of goods to be brought into direct competition with those of foreign make, were never more apparent than in the display made by Messrs. Jordan, Marsh and Co., at their extensive Washington Street store last evening. The three large windows were brilliantly illuminated, and filled exclu- sively with domestic fabrics, the results of home enter- prise and ingenuity, as opposed to the great foreign monopoly that a few years ago threatened to enthrall the dry-goods trade of the country for aU time to come. "All-wool plaids, martelle cloths, and skirtings from the Washington Mills ; armures, alpacas, and printed all-wool delaines from the Manchester Mills ; armures, alpacas, and all-wool serges from the Pacific Mills ; a variety of checks, poplins, Ohen^ goods, roubaix, &c., from the Arlington Mills ; Irma cloths from the Pem- berton Mills; black and coloured alpacas in | and f widths, robes de voyage, wash poplins, &c., from the Everett Mills ; armures and f alpacas from the Atlantic 758 UNITED STATES. Mills; ginghams, sea-side poplins, and croquet cloths from the Hampden Mills ; Chen6 poplins from the Bates Mills ; fancy dress goods from, the Hamilton Mills ; and gros grain black silks from the Cheney Brothers Com- pany, of Hartford — all tastefully arranged, with colours harmoniously blending, gave the beholders a rare oppor- tunity to iiiform themselves of the extent to which American enterprise has carried the competition. " Jordan, Marsh and Co. are the sole or principal agents of the above-named mills, and also manufacture on their own account. The Lancaster prints, piques, percales, shirtings, robes, and white quilts are an earnest of what their experience has produced; these goods being acknowledged equal in colour and fabric and wearing to Prench productions of the same grade sold at 50 per cent, higher. Then there are the Bates ging- hams, quilts, fancy cassitneres, VooUens of various makes, white piques, embossed and printed covers, piano covers, crashes of all kinds, cotton and hbaen diapers, blankets and flannels, in almost endless variety. " The display of American shawls is fine ; and, what * is most remarkable to the general public, goods of this description, equal iu quality to the English and Scotch,, are sold at one-third the cost of the imported article. Among the varieties are the Washington Mills super, premiere, Columbia, Aix-la-Chapelle ; the manufactures of the Adriatic Mills and the Methuen Mills ; and the Verona, Excelsior, and Electoral shawls from the Steffans Mills. All these, together with the American skirts of various makes prominently displayed, go to make up the most extensive collection of home manufactures in this line of goods ever exhibited in the country. "The firm has now been in business more than eighteen years. When they began, there were but one or two articles outside the plain cotton fabrics in their trade that were not obtained from abroad; now, but one-tenth of their entire stock, yearly sold passes through the Custom-house, and that is composed of the highest range of goods, not sought for by the people at large. Mr. Jordan's experience, gathered from repeated visits to distant markets, leads him to confidently believe that ere long America will depend entirely upon her own industry to clothe the masses of her people, and eventu- ally command her share of the trade of the world." UNITED STATES. 759 It would be an unnecessary omission to conclude "^^^^^^ this brief and imperfect review of the present position of ^^° " tbe American wool industry without adverting more fally to tbe duties and tbeir influence upon production. It is admitted tbat tbe specific duties were laid in order to countervail tbe duties on tbe materials entering into Countervailing tbe production of woollens. It is also stated tbat tbe ^"oneS. manufacturers, requiriug 25 per cent, ad valorem for pro- tective purposes, received tbe boon of 35 per cent, in oi^der tbat all contingencies, sucb as imder- valuations, &o., might be covered. The following Treasury Heturns for 1871 show the average per-centages of duty actually paid on the kinds of wool imported during that year : — Duties on Wool Imported in 1871. Value Imported. Rate of Duty. Paid. Rate per Cent. Dols. c. Dols. Class 1, clothing 1,162,087 8S 10 c. and 11 per cent. 728,751 en 1, washed 7,068 on 20 c. and 22"per centi 6,240 SSI 1, scoured 1,216 00 30 c. and 33 per cent. 1,401 115 2j combing 3,071,672 00 10 c. and 11 per cent. 2,138,818 674 3, carpet (under 12 c.) 2,072,516 00 3 c 593,200 28 3, carpet (over 12 c.) 1,263,122 00 6 c 431,493 32J It would thus appear tbat, so far as foreign wool was used, tbe tariff added to the cost of production a per- centage rising to a maximum of 100 or more, according to tbe shrinkage of the wool. This result would, of course, be altered by altered prices of wool. But bow tbe case stood in 1871 tbe following Table from Mr. Harris's " Memorial " is intended to show : — Duties on Wool and on Goods compared. Duty on Wool. Duty on Goods. Specific. Rate per Cent. Broad-cloths or cassimeres, made of scoured wool Cai'pets Blankets. . Per cent. 115 28 32f 50 c. per lb. and 35 per cent. 44 c. per sq. yd. and 35 per cent. 20 c. per lb. and 35 per cent. 68 70f 109f The 60 c. per lb. on brbad-elotb and cassimeres was 760 UNITED STATES. Not merely countervaUing in worsteds. But so in carpets. Opinions as to tariff. intended to countervail duties as estimated upon mate- rials. If the materials were free, the countervailing duty- would probably be taken off. As it is usually held that the duties upon materials may frequently bear a higher per-centage to the value of American cloth than the countervailing duty does to the value of foreign cloths, it is obvious that the American manufacturer would often, at any rate, have greater advantages without the system of specific duties than he now has. In such cases his competition would be keener than now. The duties on worsteds, both specific and ad valorem, were fixed with a regard only to the absolute necessities of the infant worsted' manufacture; consequently, the specific duty is not merely countervailing. This principle, though departed from in worsteds, was, however, strictly followed in respect of carpets. If therefore the counter- vailing duties were no longer collected, the production of carpets would be cheapened to — at any rate — the extent to which dutiable wool enters iato their composition. But, as in the case of woollens, so in. carpets, though to a smaller degree, the relative per-centage of duty on carpet wools and on carpets may vary iu favour of foreign carpets. And to this extent at least the American manu- facturer would receive an advantage by the repeal of these duties. It should be mentioned that a 10 per cent, reduction of all these duties was obtained by the general measure to that effect in the Session of 1871-72. The Comjnittee of Ways and Means had even passed a Resolution abolishing the whole of the Wool and Woollen Tariff, and imposing a duty of 30 per cent, on wool, and 50 per cent, on woollens ad valorem, without any specific duties at all. The history of the battle over this Resolution, and of its final defeat, is interesting, but scarcely within the scope of this Report. The Tariff of 1867 was, however, retained, and the American and foreign manufacturers must still compete under its conditions. I beg to quote an opinion from both schools of thought, as to the effect of this tariff in some cases. " The 'Providence Journal,' of Rhode Island, an advocate of the Protective system, speaks of some mestiza wool thus : — " No American wool has ever been found which will make so nice a finish, or felt so well. The tariff at the UNITED STATES. 761 time this wool was purchased was 6 cents per lb. At the revision of the tariff a duty was placed upon it of 10 cents per lb. in gold, and 13 per cent, on the valuation. This makes from 11 to 12 cents per lb. duty on the wool in the grease, and is absolutely prohibitive. In conse- quence of this duty, the price of wool has been so brought down in Europe, that the manufacturers in Germany, England, and Erance can obtain it at a much less rate than before we were deprived of it. In fact, much of it can be bought by them for the same price per lb. that would be paid by us in duties. This enables them to send into the United States their fine goods, which only pay a duty to ovuc Government of 60 per cent., whereas the duty paid to this Government on much of the same kind of wool amounts to from 100 to 120 per cent., leaving our manufactm^ers from 40 to 50 per cent, worse off than they would be under a Eree Trade system." T "To the same purport, but more explicitly, writes Mr. Edward Harris, one of the largest woollen manufac- turers in New England : — " ' This (the duty) has put down the price of fine wcol in Europe so low, that it enables their manufacturers to produce their fine goods so low that they can and will eventually drive us out of the market. It is worse to the American manufacturers than Eree Trade, by 50 to 60 per cent., while the poor wool grower is killing off his fine- wool sheep I venture to suggest that we have a tariff simply for' revenue, that the Heciprocity Treaty be renewed, and that all; duties on the raw mate- rial be repealed.' " In the corresponding subdivision under " Cotton," I have briefly given the views of the National Defenders of Industry on the tariff, and need not repeat them here. As regards competition in price, the facts seem to be that whenever the foreign goods, from altered con- ditions at home or abroad, can pay the duties and sell at less than the American minimum of production, they will fix the price of the domestic articles, and cause loss to the American producer. During last year, for instance, although native wool rose from 50 to 70 and even 80 cents, the products did not, except in a few cases, rise in price. The relative prices at home and abroad on certain goods, and the over-production in other goods, prevented any corresponding advance. Even the destruction of 762 UNITED STATES. Table of low excluded goods. woollens in tlie Boston fire had no influence except in flannels. I append,, with the remark that its per-centages in- clude the countervailing specific duties, a Tabular State- ment showing the duties on certain goods, of which many are of a low grade and are practically prohibited by the tariff. Tabular Statement showing Duties on various descriptions of Imported Goods. Weight, Gold Cost Width. per Yard. per Yard. Duty. Inches. Lbs. D. c. Per cent. Woollen coatings (shoddy) 52 1 60 118 3J JJ 54 H 1 08 104 j> j» • 54 U 1 44 87 Woollen OTercoatings (shoddy) 54 2 ] 08 127 1. 54 H 1 24 95 »s If • 54 ^ 1 26 118 tt tt • 54 If I 43 100 Broad-cloth 54 If 1 80 81 )3 54 1 23 70 Union broad-cloth 54 J 80 89 Doeskins 54 lx% 1 32i 84 Bunting 18 09f 140 Ladies' dress goods 20 05 90 J' ji • 22 11 69 33 M • 24 13i 80 11 IJ 24 15 75 t3 )J • 28 20 71 Italian cloths . , . 27 18 73 Brussels carpets, . 27 96 70 »7 • • 27 1 20 63 Wilton carpets . . 27 1 74 66 Tapestry Brussels carpets. 27 62 69 Three-ply ingrain carpets , 36 96 52 Two-ply ingrain carpets . 36 72 52 Venetian worsted carpets . 36 88 54 Druggets 48 52 99 13 . . • 48 66 85 Baizes. . 46 54 94 Felt carpets 52 52 102 UNITED STATES. 763 ^ - «" TS '1n ^5 S2 4J Articles. 1^ TJI-I o 11 3 S3 Lbs. Lbs. D. c. Cents. D. u. Blankets, woollen (not all wool) ., 4 , , 18 312 3J )J J> ' ' 4 . . 20 285 7» -it ft , . 4 24 .. 243 4 , , 28 213 i1 JS •' ■ •• 4 4 •* 41 61 •• 157 117 3} » • • * • • 4 , , 81 96 Woollen long shawls , , H , , , , l"32 91 )) ft ■ ■ ■ , , 2 , , 1 92 87 , , 2 3 84 64 Woollen lap rugs . . 4 2 16 127 >f i> ' ' * 3 3 60 76 Balmorals . , If , , 96 90 , J , 2 , , . 1 44 90 ft ■ • ■ , , 2 , , 1 65 95 "Worsted braids, per dozen . 1^ ,, 32 120 33 ■ t1 • 7ioz. , , 36 115 Union damasks i 41 96 f3 • • ' i 54 93 Worsted damasks . . 68 81 Worsted reps M • • • 1 87i 88 64 92 Worsted plush 4 64 93 ,j . > • f 1 23 06 Worsted moreens , . i 16 97 31 • • 1% 2D 100 Woollen hosiery, per dozen* , "3i 1 80 132 Woollen undershirts, per dozen 6 4 80 97 * Not all woollen. These duties would now be 10 per cent. less. 5. Future Position. Future position. 370. M. Leydoux, the reporter, at the Paris Exhibi- Opinion of tion of 1867, upon fabrics of combed wool, remarked ^^- ^^y^""^- " It was in vain, that we sought in the section of the United States the types which would enable the jury seriously to appreciate the degree of advancement of American manufacturers. "Were the manufacturers of Massachusetts desirous to guard their secret — a secret which is one no longer, near at hand or at a distance, — the development of, this Colussus of the New World ? With their vigorous march and rapid progress we are authorised to perceive that one of these days the Ameri- oans wiLL be redoubtable adversaries of England first, and soon after of Erance, and that America will seek among us, in the name of Eree Trade, consumers for its manu- factured articles. Shall this be in ten or twenty years ? 764 UNITED STATES. Without venturing furtlier into the depths of the future, we clearly see American products holding in check those of Europe." Of Mr. Robin- Mr. W. Robiason, in his article ia the "Bulleiia" of last year, expressed the following opinion : " Por the future it would seem that the Government supply of old woollens must be nearly exhausted, and that manufac- turers would not have many more of them to compete with. It would seem that with the rapidly-increasiag population of the country, consumption would very soon catch up with production. It would seem that the mania for building woollen mills has been arrested. It would seem also that the present high cost of wool would stimulate production of the raw material all over the world. It would seem from the advance in England in wages, in coal, and in other matters connected with the wooUen business, that there is a time coming, and that too in the near future, when by the present economy in the mills, and by a reduction of many of the small but sapping charges, and sales on shorter times or less discount on the sales, the woollen interest of the country would enjoy a fair period of prosperity, more especially if the people of the country generally could be made to realize the fact that American manufacturers can make as good fabrics as the foreign manufacturers, if people will only pay a fair price for them and discriminate between the good article and an article made ia the cheapest possible manner. A manufacturer cannot make indigo colours on fine woollens, and devote every talent he possesses to. excel, and at the same time sell his goods at the same price as a fabric that is got up simply to sell at a low, though not a cheap price. We need not, then, fear the competition of foreign goods, whether those goods are English, Erench, or German." OfMr Mudge. ^^- -^' ^' ^^^o^> ^^ Boston, in Ms testimony in opposition to the proposed Ten-Hour Bill in Massa- chusetts, observed that " The present actual protection to American wooUen manufacturers is about 25 per cent. The manufacturers I represent are competing with foreign goods, and as we are not at present making any interest on our capital, any increase in cost of the product would put foreign goods in the market to the exclusion of ours. We are now somewhat behind England in wooUen manufactures, but we have been UNITED STATES. 765 steadily gaining, and shall pass her in ten years if manu- facturers have a fair chance. To force this legislation upon Massachusetts alone would be disastrous. New York, Maine, and other States run eleven hours. In such an unequal contest, capital in our State would have a hard struggle. It would have to endure a double com- petition, first with capital in other States employing more hours of labour, secondly, \tith foreign productions. The woollen business is now generally depressed, and in a precarious condition, and anything tending to increase the cost would be adverse to those interests. In my opinion it is advisable to legislate upon this subject." Mr. Edward Atkinson in his pamphlet on Revenue ot Mr. Atkm- Reform mentions the following circumstance : " "Well and ^°°- truly did an Englishman of eminent sagacity once say to me, ' You will find the best protection to your manufac- tiu-es to consist in free- trade ; and we have only to dread your rivalry when you adopt that policy. While you per- sist in your present system, you do not succeed in exclud- ing us from your market, but you do succeed in limiting your own exports to the crudest forms of raw material.'" I have quoted those opinions as representative in a general form of the views usually held as to the future of the wool industry of the United States. As to what possibilities exist of equalizinEf the condi- As to equaliza- tions of productions in the Old and New Worlds, and of tlons?^ ™°'^'' sooner or later realizing this future, I have, under cotton, offered some remarks which are equally applicable to wool and its products, especially in respect of diminishing the absolute cost of production. Any reduction of the in labour, cost of living, which without lessening the resources of the labourer would diminish the cost of labour would be of advantage. Or, if the cost of labour should be per- manently increased in the Old World, the same result as to a greater equality of the cost of manufacturing would be obtained. The Chinese labour Avhich is employed in Chinese labour the Pacific Slope Woollen Mills, would encountei' great "ppo^ed. opposition on this side of the Rocky Mountains, although it has been introduced into one or two places in the Mississippi Valley as well as into North Adams in tlie East. Judge Kelley thus states the ground of his opposition, " You will observe that my opposition to organized efforts to stimulate Chinese emigration to this country is not based on hostihty to the Chinese, but that [353] 3 F 766 UNITED STATES. it arises from, their ignorance of the ralue and current price of the services they contract to render, of the habits of onr working people, and of the general cost of living in this country ; and that, coming as mere sojourners, to return at the expiration of a contract, they will be unencumbered by the expense of a family, or civic or social duties, and can afford to work for wages that will not enable an American citizen to maintain a home and educate his children as republican institutions require. " Chinese wages are, I believe, lower than those paid in any other civilized country. American wages are the highest, and the two rates cannot be maintained in the same community. The attempt on an extended scale to commingle -them would be as disastrous to the capital as it would be to the labour of the country. It would unsettle prices and cause anarchy in trade. A little reflection will satisfy any experienced business man on this point, as the employer who paid Chinese wages could always undersell those in the same business who sought to enable then" workmen to live as American citizens should live, by paying them our customary wages for their work." In primary In addition to the. possibilities of a reduction of manufacturing, there are the possibilities oi a reduction of the cost of primary materials both iadirectly and directly ; indirectly by a general reduction of the cost of living affecting all production, and directly by a reduc- tion in the ' cost of native or other wool or materials required in the manufacture of woollens and worsteds. On this point the late Mr. Edward Harris expressed the following opinion : — " I believe, if the duty was taken off from fine wool,, that the price of that article would advance in Europe to such an extent that the manufacturers there would not be able to produce fine goods at such extreme low prices as to enable them to send the same into this country, and destroy our business in spite of any tarifT which can be enforced. "If our wool-growers, by this unjust tariff on scoured wool of 32 cents per lb., and 11 per centum in gold,, succeed in keeping the fine foreign wool out of this country, they cannot keep out the fine goods of f orei^ manufacture ; and no American manufacturer can afford materials. UNITED STATES. 767 to pay tliem any Mgher price for their wool than these fine foreign goods will warrant, as they will govern the price of American goods." And on the point of a selection of wools Mr. Gros- Economy of venor remarked ia his book — " The American wool is costly, and, though superior in quality for many purposes, can even for those be often most economically used in mixture with foreign wools. A free supply of cheap wool from other countries, there- fore, enables the manufacturer to consume a larger quantity of American wool, and retain command of the market. Manufacturers in other countries have this opportunity to choose from many qualities of wool the best and most economical mixture. The policy of our Government has always denied to our manufacturers that opportunity. The ' protection ' — the advantage thus given to the foreign manufacturer — is so great as to be absolutely decisive of itself in a contest between national industries. But another advantage, not less great, is the power of changing from one class of goods to another, as the state of the market may require. With free and ample supply of wools of all kinds, the foreign manufacturer, if he finds the market overstocked with goods of any kind, can change to others for a time. But the manufacturer here, when foreign wools are either excluded or by duties made too costly for profit- able use, is forced to confine himself to the production of such goods as can be made wholly or mainly of American wool; and, whenever the market for these few qualities is supplied, he must close his mills or woi'k at a saicrifice." Although Mr. E. R. Mudge was in favour of the tariff system of his country, he did not fail to notice in the Paris Exhibition that — ■ " To com.mence with the raw material, the first im- Advantage of pression made upon an American manufacturer by an fao^^er!"™'^ observation of the woollen manufactures of Europe, as displayed at the Exposition, is the immeasurable advan- tage which the woollen manufacturer of Europe has in the command of an unlimited supply of wool, and other raw material of every variety, free of duty. The policy of the modern Governments of Europe, unrestrained by any Regard for the opinions or prejudices of agriculturalists ^0 controlling here, is first and foremost to develop the 3 F 2 768 UNITED STATES. But American manufacturer hampered. Effect of t; riff on price of wool. Future wool- growing in British America. On eastern slope of Rocky- Mountains. manufactures of their several countries. Ereedom from duties on raw material and breadstuffs is but one mode of protection. The necessity for duties on wool as a measure of encouragement to the wool-grower has passed away. The perfection to which the leading varieties of European wools has attained removes them from all competition, and renders protective duties unnecessary. No lustrous combing wools can compete with the Lincoln, Leicester, and Cotswold wools of Eng- land ; no clothing wools with the Saxon and Silesian wools of Germany ; no soft combing wools with those of the Rambouillet stock of Erance. The culture of the latter wools was developed by protection until their excellence relieved them from competition, and even the agriculturalists of Erance assented to the abolition of the duty on wool." It may therefore be safely assumed that whether or not he obtain the boon by alteration of the tariflP, the American manufacturer of wool wiU under favourable conditions as to his primary materials become a formid- able competitor even in foreign markets. As regards the effect of tariflf charges upon the price of domestic wool, Mr. Edward Atkinson thus puts the opinion of the Eree Exchange Party : — " When the free-trade tarifp is enacted, and wool, oil, and dyestuffs are relieved from tariff taxes, a much greater demand will exist for home-grown wool to mix with an abundant supply of foreign, and domestic wool may then be expected to bring better prices, as it always has done when wool has been free. At the same time the farmers and wool-growers will have an ample supply of home-made woollen goods at low cost, which cannot now be afforded, because the cheap foreign wools needed to mix with home-grown are either entirely excluded or made to cost excessively dear by the tariff tax." 371. It is stated that, in the future, the territory of British America east of the Rocky Mountains will become a great wool district. The temperature is said to be sufB.ciently equable to admit of keeping the sheep in the open air without deterioration. Similar advan- tages are claimed for many large districts on the eastern slope of the Hocky Mountains in the United States. It is also believed that the finest combing wool will eventu- UNITED STATES. 769 ally be grown in California, and perhaps in the higher lands of Texas. Many iatelHgent manufacturers and others are sanguine as to the successful growth of comh- ing wool on French merino sheep, either in the pure breed or in a breed crossed with the American merino sheep. The following views as to the future of wool in the in the United United States were expressed in 1872 by Judge Kelly of "'"''" Pennsylvania : — " Mountainous and volcanic as are our territories, which extend from the 32nd to the 49th parallel, they are peculiarly adapted to sheep culture. With their settlement, we shall become the greatest wool-producing country of the world, though our present production gives but small promise of such a result. The sources and amount of the wool-clip of 1868 were in round figures about as follows : — states. British North American Provinces Australia, South America, and Africa United States . Spain, Portugal, and Italy France European Russia Germany Great Britain , Asia Lbs. 10,000,000 76,000,000 100,000,000 119,000,000 123,000,000 125,000,000 200,000,000 260,000,000 470,000,000 " Thus it appears that Asia, Australia, Africa, and South America, which furnish no such markets for mut- ton as the commercial and manufacturing centres of Europe and this country, and where sheep must be raised for the wool alone, are its great producers. Why is wool chief among the staple exports of South America ? Be- cause her pampas present the same conditions as our territories. Why has Australia built up a great city more by its wool trade than its gold ? It is because her sheep-walks are dry and covered with bunch grass, which cures itself in the field, as is the case in our territories. Why does Asia produce more wool than Great Britain and Germany together, and almost as much as Great Britain, Germany, and the United States ? It is because ' the grasses of the elevated plains on which her countless flocks of sheep and goats range are the same nutritious, aromatic grasses upon which the elk, the buffalo, and 770 UNITED STATES. icrease in woollens will be more gradual. Future migra- tion of the industry. the mountain sheep have fed through all time upon ' the Great American Desert ' of America. " Under the impulse given to this interest by the Union and Central road, flocks, numbering thousands, collected in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, and more eastern States have been transferred to such plains and valleys as are accessible by the road, and vrhere the expense of raising sheep is but the cost of the first flock and of herding. There the finest vrool may be produced ; and with increasing railroad facilities, mining, manufac- turing, and commercial centres will furnish markets for mutton, and add to the wool-grower's profits. To say that the wool-clip of the United States, as shown by the census of 1880, will exceed that of Great Britain, is not to offer a prediction, but to assert a foregone conclusion-; and it is also safe to say that the clip of that year will embrace not only wool of all grades of sheep, but of the Cashmere, Angora, and other goats, the value of whose hair is so well known to manufacturers and merchants. But more than this, remembering the rapidity with which flocks increase, I predict that at an early day our wool-clip will equal that of Asia, which Avill insure us supremacy in the manufacture of the entire range of woollen and worsted goods." Wool could be raised in the West at half the cost or even less than half the cost on the valuable lands of the United States, and probably as cheaply as in Australia or in the Biver Plate. But, as has already been remarked in paragraphs 280 and 283, in the sub-division of raw material, a deterioration in the quality of the Western wools has been observed. On the more favourable lands of the West, however, this disadvantage may not repeat itself. Or with greater care it may be prevented. As regards the woollen manufactures, the increase of production in this decade will doubtless be more gradual than in the last, and it will probably be a long time before the fabrics of the West can even command their own markets. But as the centre of population moves westward, the centre, of industry will surely, though slowly, follow; and in respect of woollens, it is not likely that the greatest centre of the manufacture wiU. be far from the centre of population. As that day approaches the eastern manufacturers will either migrate westward or seek the most favourable conditions of com- UNITED STATES. 771 ]peting in foreign markets. And I hope the data col- lected in this Report will enable those who are more competent than myself to judge, to form an opinion as to whether or not the United States will soon, under healthy conditions, secure her home mgtrket for nearly all the products of wool, and even begin to compete when win With her rivals m loreign markets. In the meantime, I may venture to echo the opinion abroad of M. Leydoux, and affirm that the United States may "become a redoubtable rival, in foreign markets, in the industries connected with wool, and may seek consumers, even in Europe, for her products. United States compete PART IV. Silk, Flax, Jtjtb, and othee Indtjstiiies. 372. In this part I purpose to notice, briefly, the industries connected Avith silk, flax, jute, and some other materials. ^'"'- 1. The Silk Industry. SX, The following are the special statistics of the United States' census in respect of silk manufactures : — 772 UNITED STATES, O CD CO iH I O !>• O CO t: M y^ 02 ■SJBlIOff •BI'E[lOa •q^tioi •gX aAoqB •gi OAoq^ •BjgptiT^ •sjgioods •sgipttidg *sraoo7 ■BtaooT; •BJopreja •jaqinnjtj *J3AiOd -8SJ0H 'jaMod -asioH •sinsraqsiiqiyjBa CQ«O00CQ OOOO OOU3 la r-l «DO o mo* .COl-H «ooencQ «J t^iOCO"* SDM c- :-^ t-t- in U3 coca tr- io r :oi— I :«D O t-p-lrHwa rH eo : CTr- ;«o : f^ U3 hn .H nS ^ ni t g ■s ^ o hn s ^ C p. » >> *f^ a ■&t^ (-, lU y ^ ci- ■i c w :-a 00 t^ 11 UNITED STATES, 773 OO'^OT oo JS ^ ^^ ^ 3 -l!- flS CO =3°>g§ •« ft ■*« ^ og ft ■ CO : o_^ fa I-, o ^ 3| :o : "os" • m 4 <=> OO S 1 s •§" •ff'-" • 'rH" Ph CO « ^ r-, OOOiO ^ 1^ rHO" I C4 01 in i>^ •co" ■ S >fl ■* O OO o s| -S^. «o _0 .«3 0, = 0" : |H« ^ rH CS w ■"■ *"■ 1 (» -S^. g i E3^ .u a . ^ 00--'«) •a 5S ^s :t-'^-oo"M" RfS H c^' ca' «rH" ji 1" 4 H 5 s •3 i o 1 pg" CO '^ S " ■s g S^. 1" : : : ;■*, ; ^ >-i:* ■ ■ ■§ ■ o» Ol Jg' oot>w OiO S-K 00 :«>ot-co^ rfg ^ "" s !.! s fS S 5 "S P i.llr.. : a : S Connect Ma.ssa.ch New Ha New Jer New Yoi Ohio ... Pennsy] Vermon i OOOOOWOHfl rs v_ cB o_ ^ t>; c i_ ca 00 li ^ ^ to r-1 r-l i-T rn £ -•fi OS us 000-? O "J 11 ^ "SO 0(M 'CO ' w -3 t^i— lOOmi— loeo 1 |S3Sg|3g = ns -a < s g M i-i 00-#Q O OS c- OCC^ O 1 Hi^ 0«300t»-a«0 ^ •g i R& «- r-T * ;^ 00 OJ Tp lO O »0 rH O § s CO C4 Ol r-i^ -» Z F^ H r-i w i>.UD r-H CO eO OS ITS OS J 5 s? meQ0ECNr-l"3e4"a lO r-T (—" r-T • .s • ■MS •i s OS 3 g"g«=»:Sl^S : ■ss w s s 5 £ -S 9 H M fe ^ fe.S S 1 fi d s) Cordage ) 1850. Sols. £ 351,808 = 73,000 8,002,893 1,667,000 1860. Dols. 165,404 656,000 326,609 60,000 7,843,339 £ = 34,400 136,400 47,000 ) 13,600 ; 1,633,000 1870. Dols. £ 815,010 = 143,700 2,178,776 372,700 4,507,664 770.300 8,979,382 1,633,900 The hemp and cordage have remained stationary. The linen manufactures have increased 170 per cent, since 1860, and the jute industry has sprung up since that year. It consumed, in 1870, 5,800 tons of jute ; and its value is included in the returns for bagging and hemp dressing. 388. In 1860 it was remarked that, " the manufac- ture of linen goods has made but little progress in this country. A few mills, chiefly in Massachusetts, make crash and other coarse fabrics ; the largest two in that State produced 6,000,000 yards ia 1860. Others are extensively engaged in making twuies, shoe, and other threads. It is to be regretted that the manufacture of flax has not attained greater magnitude in a country where the raw material is so easily and cheaply grown, i'armers throughout the West have raised the crop simply for the seed, and thrown out the fibre as value- less." The imports of linen goods were as follow, and were, with the exception of a small fraction, from Great Britain : — Importation of Linen, &c. 1846 1850 1855 1860 1865 1870 1871 1872 Dollars. f 5,098,505 = = 1,062,172 8,134,674 1,698,723 8,617,165 1,796,910 .. 10,736,335 2,246,737 . . 10,041,452 2,000,000 . . 16,253,162 3,380,000 . , 18,061,095 3,762,000 . . 21,220,496 4,380,000 UNITED STATES. 789 (&.) Their Present Position. 389. As regards the laanufacture of linen goods, I in the present. think it is fair to say, that there is no manufacture of fabrics from flax of any importance, excepting " crash " and bagging. ■ An attempt, by manufacturers of wealth, Failure to a few years ago, to establish the manufacture of the ™„g„s "^ finer linens, failed within a short period. The protected products could not compete with the English goods. The failure was owing in a great degree to a duty, running up to 300 per cent, in fine yarns, which could not be spun in the States; and also to the determination of the imported hands, who soon found out their power, to obtain higher and yet higher wages. The machinery was, of course, also imported. 390. As to the growth of flax for the linen manu- As to growth facture, I beg to quote the following remarks, which, o^^*''- although made in 1856, are said to be almost equally applicable to the present time. " The cultivation of flax has fallen off, not because it yielded no return for capital and labour, but because other crops yielded a much larger return. In other words, ' it did not pay,' and the farmers have ceased to raise it. Max is a profitable crop to raise in Europe, — why is it unprofitable here ? Because of the difference in climate and soil ; of the want of the skiU and know- ledge, acquired only by long experience, requisite to its successful cultivation and preparation for the spindle ; because of the differences in the character, habits, and wants of the agricultural population, male and female, in the two countries ; because cotton is relatively higher there than here, and because of many other reasons apparent to the thoughtful mind. " I was not long in arriving at the conclusion that, Not iikeiy for under this state of things, no bleached fijie linen goods ^"^ ^'°™'* could be profitably made in this country. The only road which seemed to run out of this difficulty was the one leading to such improvements in the husbandry and pre- paration of flax for the spindle, as would reduce its price. After visiting most of the flax-growing districts in the United States, it appeared evident that the chief causes of the greater cost of producing flax here than abroad, was due to the greater cost of pulling and retting it. 790 UNITED STATES. As to wages. In Ohio. In Hassachu- " In many parts of the country, particularly in OHo, flax is largely grown for the seed only. It is mown in the same manner as grass, and thrown upon the thresh- ing floor, and cattle are driven over it until it is threshed, and the straw, tow and all, is thrown into the roads for. their improvement. Latterly, attention has heen turned to the saviag of this waste product, and a kind of tow has heen reclaimed, to some profit, from which coarse goods have been successfully made It has been thought that fine, or a good quality of white paper, could be made from this material, but the difldculty of bleaching the * shoves,' without destroying the fibre, has been found to be so great that the attempt has been aban- doned. " It is not probable that fine linens can be profitably made from flax grown in this country, for a number of years ; but there is no doubt but that coarse and cheap goods, for which there is a large demand, if advantage is taken of all the knowledge we now possess on the growth and preparation of flax, can be made with a fair margin of profit. " After our farmers have been educated, for a gene- ration, in the cultivation and husbandry of flax, and our mechanics and artizans have had the same length of " time in which to acquire experience and knowledge re- lating to its manufacture, the production of finer fabrics can be profitably maintained, and not till then." . . . " I do not think that in the present condition of this country the European methods of cultivating and husbanding of flax, which are the only ones that can succeed where the finer qualities are sought for, can be profitably introduced." 391. As to wages, I can quote the following par- ticulars. The rates in flax-spinning, in Ohio, were, in 1869, as follows : — In Massachusetts they were, in 1871-72 : — Average Rates. Range in Rates. Men Women . . Young persons Children .. D. c. 2 06 98 88 0-56 s. d. 7 8i 3 8i 3 4 2 li D. c. 2 00 1 00 1 00 55 ». d. 1 6 3 9 3 9 2 Of D. c. D. c. 1 60 to 2 45 80 1 25 70 1 35 40 68 s. d. s. d. 6 .0 to 9 2i 3 4 84 2 7i 5 0| 16 2 7 UNITED STATES. Ean&e in Rates. 791 In Giinhy Cloth. In Twine, &c. Men . . Women Children D. c. D. c. 1 66 to 2 50 1 00 1 25 50 83 *. d. s. d. 6 3i to 9 4i 3 9 4 8i 1 lOi 3 li B.C. 75 50 ». d. to l"34 70 D. .;. «. d. 2**9ito 5"oi 1 lOi 2 7i In gunny cloth. In twine, &c. The average rates to classes of operatives in a flax By classes. and twine mill were — Men. Women. Young Persons. Children. D. c. s. d. D. c. s. d. D. c. «. d. D. c. s. d. Flax dressers , . 2 00 7 6 , , Preparers 2 25 8 5i 92 3 5i 85 3 2i 52 1 Hi Spinning 2 58 9 84 90 3 a 82 3 1 64 2 4f Bleaching 1 60 6 1 30 4 lOi . , , , Winding and baling 1 74 6 6i 1 05 3 Hi 80 3 , , Repairs 2 13 7 Hi •• 75 2 n •• •• 392. As the statistics of the Census already quoted, and also to be quoted, class manufactures of hemp with manufactures of flax, I beg to quote here the wages connected with the hemp, cordage, net, and twine industries. In a small hemp cordage mill the rates paid were as follow: — Average Eales. Overseers Spinners ■Ropelayers . . Helpers Others Teamsters . . Watchmen and sTiilled labourers D. 2 2 1 2 1 60 = 17 62i- 75 67 33 to 1 67 1 67 1 75 to 4 00 9 7 /? O 10 6 1 d. 4i ■' 3 3 to 6 3 6 3 6 6| to 15 In general, the wages in cordage in Massachusetts were stated at — D. c. s. d. D. c. s. d. For Men .. ... 1 67 = 6 3 or 2 18 = 8 2^ Women .. . . 80 3 77 2 lOf Children .. . . 33 1 3 40 16 In hemp cordage. 792 UNITED STATES. In nets. In rope in Ohio. In net and twine in Connecticut. To sailmakerp, Census statistics of bagging. In nets tlie rates were about — For Men Women . . Young persons In a rope mill in Ohio tlie — Foreman received . . Spinners . . Boys D. c. *. d 2 50 = 9 4A 85 3 62 2 4 H D. c. s. 3 00 = 11 1 50 5 d. 3 71 38 15^ In a net and twine factory in Connecticut the rates averaged as follow :— 1867. 1869. Net and twine factory, Connecticut — D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Overseer 25 00 20 00 = 36 8 Assistant 18 00 18 00 3 Card stripper Packers, boys 9 00 6 50 7 50 7 00 1 5 1 3 4 Spinners, boys Spoolers, boys . . Twisters, boys . . 6 50 4 42 5 10 5 00 4 00 4 40 16 13 14 8 4 8 Packers, men 12 25 12 25 2 10 Netting weavers, girls MacMnist 5 25 15 75 5 67 16 38 1 5 2 14 In Maryland and Ohio, in 1869, sailmakers were paid 3 dollars or 10s. a day. 393. The following Table contains the Census sta- tistics in respect of " bagging, flax, hemp, and jute : " — TJNITED STATES. 793 o CO 1 i M eg f— 1 1 to O 00 OS ooooi-toino OTf*00.tDino QOrHcoininintCcvr coomcoffococoea CO CQ F-l rM 1 i to oooomooso O(NOO"*O0sO O rHOOCM»nt*0 ocMoo'i-Tincoin csini— imcMi— itoo CNt^CMC^tOCQin*-! ll o g |3m O CO ^ o to .« • CO i 1— 1 . o O 00 CO 0000C50— lO OOOOOOOO oooocooino in'tom o coooDO cjmNoeoo-^-^ ^ !>. tN W CO i-t CO ■ 1^ to . OS CO CM CO OS . . • . iM . . . • " ' * tC * • ■ to 1 "a, a a ■Bq;noi ao (Mcovn-Tfieaot^to -rPCOi-Hi-HOiODOSrH rH 1— I OS , , , , 00 \ . . ■ • * ■ CM • • • OS 'SISAoqB saiEraaj CO 00 ■^(NtOtOCM-^sHCiO CO O p-H 05 00 00 -^ l-H 1— 1 W F- 1 •9I8AoqB CO r-T i>.coeocooinrHto COClrHOO-^rHi-H OS OI r-l r-( *eo-rj.CCMi— ICOOO-^ l-H O r— I -^ ■-* r-H CM l-H •S3ipuidg CO o »—( in to ys o »n o (M '^ *n -^ (M Ol Oi O CT> . CO CO t^ to .Oi(NO.^>*. CO , in . . ; . •XB£i.0d .38J0fJ 1ft eo ift in o o o Oi • • • !>. !>. CM ■ r~i ' ' ' t~i pH • CM r-H 1 ■jaqnnn^ in . C^l CM CM CM « -^ <-l 1 1-5 a OS o to in o 00 00 O CO OD to _ 1— 1 rH ; to t* ; ; r-T -CO •jsjiod -asJOH in CO o o in in o in o " CO >^ -* <>. Oi QO (N • ,-i ,-t r^ ,-^ 1 1' 00 CO eo CO C<).-lCMCM'^-rt)t^i-l pH id 2 m 9 to CM 00 , C3S . O . . . . . CJ . t^ . . . . to tn 00 s CO ■a •3 P 1 n 02 1 §cS»sfe.2S swSgg;ziO(2 794 UNITED STATES. Annual wage. Cost of labour. Proportion of materials and labour to value. Number of flax mills in 1872. this Table it wage was 302 would appear that the dol. 25 c, or 50L 7s. 6d. 394. Prom average annual per hand. The cost of labour was about 48 dollars, or SI. per ton of raw material consumed. In bagging, the cost of labour was from 6 to 9 cents, or 2^d. to S^d. per yard, out of a Talue of 88 to 30 cents, or Is. 3^d. to Is. respectively, in Kentucky and Mis- souri. The proportions of raw materials and labour in the value were as follows for the aggregate of production : — Per cent. Raw materials . . . . . . . . 56 Labour . . . . . . . . , 21 All other items . . . . . . • . 23 100 395. The flax mills at present in the United States seem to be as follow : — No. Remarks. Connecticut 2 1 trimmings, 1 cord, &c. Illinois 10 5 tow, 1 bagging. Indiana Iowa . 16 3 6 tow, 1 bagging. 1 tow. Kentucky Maine 1 1 1 flax and hemp bagging. 1 crash and table-cloths. Massachusetts . 11 3 crash, &c., 1 linen goods, 1 braids- Michigan Minnesota 1 2 i bagging. 2 tow. Missouri New Hampshire New Jersey* . . New Yorkt . . 3 3 3 49 3 bagging. 1 linens, 2 burlaps, carpets, &c. 1 bagging, 2 cordage and twine. 3 linens and yarn, 6 twine, &c. Ohio Vermont 45 1 35 tow, 7 bagging. 1 thread. Wisconsin . . . . 2 2 taw. 153 * In New Jersey are also 3 mills making flax, hemp, and jute goods, t In New York the goods made at 35 of the mills are not known ta Linen in the future. (c.) Their Future Position. 396. It will, I think, be evident from what has already been stated, that there is no immediate prospect of the uprising of an important linen manufacture in the United States. united states. 795 3. The Jtjte Industry. •^'^*®- (ff.) Its Past Position. in the past.. 397. This industry has sprung up within the past few years : there was scarcely a trace of it in 1860. The imports of jute will best show its deyelopment : — imports. Tons. 1865 .. .. 18,777 1,600 (?) 1870 .. .. 67,310 6,800 1871 .. .. .. 26,450 1 1ncluding cocoa and 1872 41,851 J other fibres. The importation of jute had been hitherto weighted by a heavy duty, for fear of its competition with domestic flax and hemp. (b.) Its Present Position. in the presents 398. I regret that I am unable to show precisely with statistical data the present position of the jute industry, and its probably rapid expansion. It is possible that jute may be grown in the United Possibiuty of States, and from an article on the subject in the f"uXd"'^ " Agricultural Monthly Report " I make the following states. extracts : — "Experiments in cultivating jute in the Southern States thus far indicate that both the climate and the soil are well adapted to its growth, and there is a fair promise that its production will become an extensive and profitable industry in that section. Its fibre supplies material in manufactures for which there is a rapidly increasing demand, and which, except to a very limited extent, does not take the place of cotton ; while, there- fore, it wUl not supplant the latter, nor compete with it iu the market, it may enlarge the area of profitable rural industry in the South. It is claimed that, were the South to divide the labour it now bestows exclusively upon cotton between that and jute, the result would be an increase in the value of the cotton crop, it having^ been proved that, beyond certain limits, an increase in the product occasions a diminution in the total value ; that it supplies the raw material for coarse fabrics, which are now largely imported by the cotton-growing^ 796 UNITED STATES. States, but wMch. might be manufactured by tbeir unskilled fem.ale labourers at a saving of millions ; that it can be raised and prepared for market at a greater profit per acre than cotton. " The following communication has been received from Mr. E. H. Derby, of Boston, who is an enthusiastic believer in benefits to result to the South, and so to the whole country, from jute culture :• — " ' As the jute-plant has been acclimated in the Southern States, and I have exerted myself to aid in its introduction, many questions have been addressed to me from the South as to the culture and harvestiug of the plant. I have consequently written to a friend in India, and subjoin extracts from his reply, which will be useful to the planter, if published in your valuable " Report." I am convinced by this reply, and by other letters from the South, that the rich lands of Florida, Louisiana, Texas, and Mississippi, will, with fair cultivation, yield 3,500 lbs., or 10 bales of fibre to the acre, in place of one-tenth of that amount of cotton. I am convinced also that it can be produced at less than one-tenth the cost of cotton ; that the caterpillar will not touch it ; and that, if planted around the cotton fields, it may possibly protect them from that voracious insect. I am also led by my letters to hope that it will attain to its full growth in three to four months, and that the same field may yield two crops in one season.' " William M. Hazzard, of Georgetown, South Caro- lina, reports : — " ' The cultivation of rice is attended with so many difficulties and risks, and such an outlay of money, with little or no remuneration, that we shall be obliged to abandon our lands, or introduce some plant less liable to the disasters to which a rice-crop is exposed. From experiments I have seen made I am satisfied that our lands are well adapted to the growing of jute. This plant, whenever tried in the rice-fields, has grown most luxuriantly. I have thus far failed in my efforts to obtain seed enough to plant three or four acres the coming year. I should be glad to obtain all the informa- tion the Department of Agriculture can furnish in reference to the time of planting, mode of cultivation, time of cutting, and mode of curing and preparing for market.' UNITED STATES. 797 "A correspondent at Charlestown, South Carolina, reports that he planted jute-seed June 10, on very poor land, and October 1 the plants had grown to a height of 6 feet. That it can be raised at the South with success and large profit he has great faith. "The following extracts from correspondents give the results of their own experiments in growing it : — "'Orange County, Florida. — I ploughed up and thoroughly prepared a half acre of medium grade pine- land, and sowed the jute in drills. May 23. It came up well, but, owing to the excessively hot dry weather, it all dried up. On the same day sowed a small plat in a bay head. It came up and grew finely. I am now gathering the seed. Some of it is 12 feet high, and all as high as I can reach, showing that on damp, rich soil it wUl here succeed finely. This bay head is muck, several feet deep, which I cleared off and limed two years ago. Upon it bananas grow from 12 to 15 feet high.' " 'Muscogee County, Georgia. — I consider the experi- ment in jute-raising a success. The cultivation is simple, and the cost of production, small. I had seeds sown broadcast on broad beds ; some on sandy river land, and the rest on stiff clay land. The latter did very much better than the former. The cultivation was the same, but many of the plants on the sandy soil died out after having attained their full growth, while those on the clay lands remained green and vigorous and matured their seed. The plant requires moisture. The seed was sown in May, and the plants could have been cut in September. A frost, on the 15th of October, which injured the cotton, did not leave its mark on the jute. It attained the height of 15 feet, and in appearance somewhat resembles a plantation of young peach-trees before being removed from the nursery. I had the plants cut in October and steeped ten days in stagnant water, after which the fibre was easily stripped off.' "'New Orleans, Louisiana. — Jute seed received from the Department of Agriculture was planted on the 11th of April. The soil was Avell ploughed and harrowed and in good condition. Patch No. 1, rich soU, 3 feet above ordinary gulf- tide, planted in drills 3| feet apart ; patch No. 2, very rich soil, 1 foot above tide, planted in chops 4 feet by 2J ; patch No. 3, same as No. 2, planted^broad- [353] 3 H 798 TJNITED STATES. cast, soil very dry at planting. Seed covered ^ inch, deep did not germinate until rain on the 22nd of April. May 12 : Passed tlie cultivator through patches 1 and 2. May 27 : Chopped with hoe the large weeds from the same ; jute 2 feet high ; no further cultivation. Patch 3 received no attention after planting. Almost continuous drought this summer ; jute suffered, but not so much as corn and other crops. July 10 : Cut a portion of patches 1 and 2, 9 and 10 feet high ; put the same in bayou- water for seven days, and got beautiful fibre the entire length of the plant. July 15 : Planted again the land which cut on the 10th. At this date, October 10, this second crop is 8 feet high, looking well, although it has suffered much from excessive drought. Wishing to save as m.uch seed as possible for a more extended planting the next season, I could afford but a fractional part of an acre on which to arrive at some idea of what amount of fibre we may expect per acre. On the 28th of August I cut a portion of patches 1 and 2, plants measuring from 11 to 13 feet ; seed-burs about half grown. [This was in accordance with direction in Agricultural Report of 1871, page 172.] The quantity of fibre saved satis- fied me that the yield of these patches would be quite equal to 4,000 lbs. per acre. " ' Patch 3, broadcast, is exceedingly dense and heavy; portions being matted with native weeds, it is impossible to make a reasonably accurate estimate of yield per acre. " ' "Wishing to test the aquatic qualities of jute, I selected patch 2, as liable to overflow by heavy rain. The season being almost entirely without rain, I trans- planted some of my July planting, when 2| feet high, into water several inches deep. The plants have con- tinued to grow finely, and are now looking well ; this in a continuous flood of water for several weeks.' "The Department has received from gentlemen in Louisiana and Georgia very encouraging accounts of their experiments, together with specimens of the jute fibre which they have produced. Mr. Thomas H. Dun- ham, of Boston, to whom a sample was forwarded, writes as follows : — " ' The quality is very superior. The market is just now depressed very much. Some parties here have lost heavily on imported jute-butts, and this season (before the fire) India goods were imported at immense loss. UNITED STATES. 799 The present rate is 6 c. to 8 c. per lb. (gold) ; tlie usual rate, 10 c. to 13 c. (gold). Your sample is very superior, and at 10 c. (gold) it would be safe to quote.' " Tbe statistics of jute, as returned in tbe Census, bare been, as already stated {vide paragraph 393) given under flax. 399. As to labour, I can, however, quote one or two As to wages. rates of wage. In a jute factory in New Jersey, the in New Jersey, following were the average weekly wages in 1869 : — Hours of Labour. D. c. 5 30 = £ s. d. 17 8 Carders Spinners . 5 47 18 3 Dyers . . 9 42 1 11 5 Bleachers , 10 00 1 13 4 60 Packers 8 96 1 9 lOi Dressers 6 42 1 1 5 Weavers 6 22 1 9 In bagging and jute the daily wages in Massachu- in Massachu- setts were stated to average — ^^"^" D. c. s. d. For men .. .. . . 1 75 = 6 6| All others .. .. . . 75 2 9| It is reported that the manufacture of hemp and of h^""? ^^^ . , i • • Ti • ■ J"te carpet jute carpets is rapidly increasing. Jute in the future. (c.) Its Future Position. 400. Mr. David Wells pointed out in 1869 that " the articles into which jute is manufactured are mainly coarse fabrics, such as lurlaps, padding, coarse canvas, carpet, yarns, and twines, all of which the United States annually imports in large quantities, but which might be readily manufactured at home." This view is likely to be justified by the rapid increase of jute manufactures. And if the raising of jute in the Southern States become a commercial success, a yet far greater importance for the jute industry wiU be quickly acquired. 4. Miscellaneous Articles. 401. Before concluding this Report on the textile industries of the United States, I wish to add a few remarks on industries connected therewith. The Census of 1870 gives the following Table of i^dia-rubber " India-rubber and Elastic Goods " : — 3 H 2- and elastic goods. 800 "UNITED STATES. O CO o CO CO o o o 03 i P 3 1 CO .S.IBIIO0 "^ CO to CO 1,265,000 563,000 780,000 775,000 5,000 156,000 1 1 to 00 i-H 5 . ^ CO CO ^ in Q "^^ eo ,426,330 532,900 636,150 420,069 4,800 105,111 o It* CO •s-renoQ «o CO '^ oooooocjo 0OO00C3O0 00 0^- CO Oi^ ^*^ ^ I-H t^ 00 I-H 1 g 5 '0 ^ ooinoot^eooeo Qoc<»ootoooin -^'vomosooioo in -^ r-^ -^ to r^ >-. o W c 00 1— 1 ■saiBuiaj CO OS t^ -re (N CO « -^ OS . t* , l-H "<*■ ■* CO wo C4M OS W I-H PH (-+ •s?XTiisi OS CO (M Tj< in -^ 10 cj ^ (M --H to to ; (N ; '^ m •3 1 s CO OS f-T osooso-^tooo coc^^coo»nosoos. •F40X CO OS CO !>. t^ 00 CO OS F-t in i-H CO ; (N ; CO t>. — * CM © rH tM 00 t>. OS ca «o -T** m tN in P-H I-H rH o CO •q^no_i CO in M in 'tf in in CO OS . to CO . >-< > r— 1 i >< 00 OS •qi OAoqB to ^ to CD C^q t>. 10 CO T— 1 00 CO t^ ci 00 w CO ; c^ f-H . Tf«_ OS • lO CO in •91 OAoqB CO CO Or-l(N* tp to -^ . .OS . . © . . . . Tt< . . i-n . . I-H I-H •iiv in to too^inTt§ CO cfl CO in © c 1 o CO •ssTpuidg OS CO ^^"^ *o CO ' 00 : c If? • *^ j>: -co 'to -* "^ ■tJ< W t^ OS of rH fh"w "^ •sraoo^ CO to to '. © in CO CO -** cs^ in • w ! ^ r^ \ CO c^ !>. to »n (M CO CO I- cs in Steam- engines. o CO ■jgqtan^ f-H ,0 .COOS .to 1 00 , 00 to N CO -* M 00 CO CO to © CO © -«)i ,00 . ■— to CO c* 00 ' iC ' (NO of CO t>- © (N l->. N CM r-\ (N rH '.laMod CO CO to in CO OS CO -^ in .-H ; to : OS CO ; !.>. 1— t if O OD 1— 1 Msqinn;^ OS OS ,10 . m t«« f-H N «>* 00 f-H m CO "O OS Q ^ -«# © CO © CO © (N CO © 01 © CO GO -^ M t- 00 in »n T^':^- s- « g a a .a £ 5 g ^ TTNITED STATES. 801 j2 u s o o o o o o o . to o o o irt o o g Oi -^ o O O l-» o i-^ "c oo" O ■ CO • M t-^of to CO Og r^ O o N i-t "«i* 1— 1 CN CO ec r-l • NOrHOcOCNOtO » rt eoirac^iOcot^'^ao 1 O to OarHM'*'*'OrHM« '•1 TO CQ 00 N »-^ O M --< C-I^O 00 ^ Tl* •* « weo ^ < .—1 Ih ,1 i-C (M to CO rH O ■^ Jl OS ira I'* CO o o N m «^ in o »o o '^-l = ^ 'o o 40 • CO ' tCin rH CO a S Q^-X C^ 00 CD O O CO O O C^ CO . l>- 1 P' (M ■o o u J -^ 1 In. 00 (2 (3i c:i Ph fH t^ t>. o o oi . C» CC' o o _u rH l« O ^ d Fh H o • • oT : -Tj^o • " * Cs ' o O CO iC 1— 1 fe => o 1 go o . . . . o . . , • ■ • • o • • • CO o o en o o «- SP «*=*« o "1 ^o cT • • lJ iO in ' • Ph ^ (N^ CQ I-? TS CO O O C^ O tH S " . V M O O O Tt< M O m eo >-l 1-^ rHO !>. 8^ to "^* "OO "Oi m N ' *>^ m OS 1— t •— I O r-t 00 n ira eJ rH rM o: y>s o o fl o • o C5 Hffi M^. o . . J CO o • ' ■^ o o ri Crt OS 01 -1^ cd ■w GO 1 1 a Connecticut Maine Jtfassachusetts Missoiiri . . New Jersey New York.. Pennsylvania Rhode Island ^ H 802 UNITED STATES. Annual wage. Efficiency. Cost of labour. Value at mill. Cost of pro- duction. 402. It will be noticed that one lialf of the labourers were women and children. The average actual annual wage was about 425 dollars, or *Jll. per hand. The effi- ciency of the labourer may be stated thus : he worked up 1,235 dollars' worth of materials into a manufactured value of 2,420 doUars. The aggregate production weighed probably 10,000,000 lbs. The above value would then represent about 1,650 lbs. per hand. The cost of labour was in the above estimated weight of production about 26 cents, or lO^d. per lb. in general. In boots and shoes it was 22 cents, or 8f d. per pair — ^the pair probably averaging nearly 1 lb. The value at the miU seems to have been — For Boots and Shoes, about Braces . . Coats . . . . . Fabrics . . 403. The cost of production in general would, on the estimated 10,000,000 lbs. given above, have been as foUows : — Primary materials All other materials Labour General expenses, suranoe, &o. As to wages. In Massachu- setts. By classes, D. c. *. d. 1 00 = 3 4 per pair. 3 GO 10 per dozen. 4 50 15 each. 1 40 4 8 per yard. taxes, interest, in- U. c. 64-31 10-03 25-60 8. = 2 d. If 4 m 45-73 1 6i Value at mill 1 45-67 4 lOi The cost of producing boots and shoes was, in Rhode Island, per pair — D. c. s. Primary materials . . . . . 55 -6 = 1 All other materials .. .. .. 7*8 Labour . . . . . . . . 23 -5 General expenses, &c. . ., .. 19-1 d. m 3 7-1- 'a Value at mill 10-6 3 6J It would be possible to work out some other estimates of cost of production, but I have neither time nor space for the purpose. 404. I am able to quote the following rates of wages for establishments in Massachusetts in 1867 and 1869 : — UNITED STATES. 803 Table showing the Average Rates of Weekly "Wages paid to Persons employed in the India-rubber fac- tories of Massachusetts in the respective Years 1867 and 1869. Occupation. 1867. 1869. D. c. D. c. £ s. d. Weavers of gusset web 12 95 13 30 = 2 4 4 Weavers of suspenders 8 40 7 00 1 3 4 Spoolers . . 6 49 5 69 18 Hi Braiders . . 5 89 5 82 19 4| Finishers . 6 07 6 96 19 lOi Watchmen 13 00 13 35 2 4 6 Carpenters 15 62 15 10 2 10 4 Inspectors , 14 00 14 70 2 9 Firemen . . 13 00 13 35 2 4 6 Preparing rubber . . 5 26 4 97 16 6J Dyers of cotton yarns 6 90 8 50 1 8 4 Packers . . 5 00 5 48 18 31 11 3| Kubber hose, belting, &c. . 9 38 1 Cutters . , 10 62 11 81 1 19 4i Calender men 10 80 9 14 1 10 5J Calender boys 5 09 4 60 15 4 Shrinkers . . . 9 55 1 11 10 Mill hands 9 00 9 00 1 10 Curers . 13 50 13 50 2 5 Girls at piece work . 6 50 8 00 1 6 8 Engineer^ . 19 17 19 66 3 5 61 Labourers . 11 43 11 78 1 19 31 Apprentices or boys 4 88 5 05 16 9f Foremen or overseers 18 14 20 15 3 6 11 Unskilled workmen . . 10 50 10 50 1 16 Skilled vrorkmen . . 12 00 12 00 2 Hours of labour 66 60 in a rubber tnrt jadTmll m 1«7U — In rubber thread. D. c. D. c. s. d. s. d. Men were paid .. 1 75 to 3 75 or 5 11| to 12 9| Children .. 60 83 2 1 2 lOi In an elastic fabric mill in 1871 the average rates inelastic were— ^^^"'''- For making belting, hose, 1 thread, &c. . . J Weaving and braiding Packing and finishing . Dye-house Mechanics and others Men. D. c. <. d. 1 75 6 6f 2 00 7 6 2 37 8 101 Women. D. 0. s. d. 1 25 1 17 4 8i 4 a Young Persons. D. u. s. d. 1 OS 4 Oi 1 00 3 9 1 00 3 9 1 30 4 lOi 1 00 3 9 Children. D. c. s. d. £8 2 6i 65 2 2i 804 UNITED STATES. In elastic fabrics, and braces and webbing. In general. By classes. In some follows : — other estahlisliments the rates were as In Elastic Fabrics. Men "Women Young persons Children Men Women Young persons Children Men .. Women Young persons Children . . D. c. D. c. 1 50 to 2 75 95 1 00 70 75 50 s. = 5 3 2 1 d. s. 7i to 10 6| 3 7i 2 104 d. 3| 9 91 In Braces. 1 75 1 00 1 00 67 4 00 1 25 1 50 6 3 3 2 61 9 9 6 15 4 5 84 74 In Webbing. 1 70 1 00 2 00 1 50 6 3 44 9 7 5 6 74 In 1871-72 the average day wages in elastic and rubber goods were thus given in Massachusetts — Men. Women. Young Persons. Children. 1 2. 3 4. 5. D. c. s. d. 1 75 6 61 2 43 9 U 2 52 9 54 1 75 6 6f 2 12 7 Hi D. c. «. d. 1 00 3 9 1 12 4 24 133 5 1 15 4 3f D. 0. «. d. 87 3 34 80 3 1 21 4 64 1 00 3 9 1 05 3 114 D. c. s. d. 50 1 104 56 2 14 65 2 54 54 2 04 45 1 84 The foUomng rates for classes of operatives can be added : — Men. Women. "Soung Persons. Children. D. c. D. c. D. c. D. c. Foreman . 4 00 , . , , 1. Engraver . 3 00 , • , , Machinist . 3 25 , . , , General work 1 72 , , 75 ■ • Overseer . 2 75 , , 2. Machinist . 2 50 , , . , Watchmen 2 00 75 , , General work 1 75 96 73 50 f Overseer . 3 00 , , 3. -1 Dyer 4 00 . , , , General work 2 08 1 12 1 07 67 4. General work 2 16 . . 5. General work 2 25 1 40 1 25 67 Overseer, &c. 4 00 , , 6. < Weaving . 2 00 1 25 1 00 65 [General woik 2 06 1 17 1 08 60 UNITED STATES. 805 405. As to tlie distribution of labour and its pay, I As to distnbu- can also quote the following particulars for establish- '"'"°f'^''°'"'- ments in Massachusetts in 1870-71. In elastic fabrics one company employing 207 persons i" elastic reports as follows : — fabrics. Number of overseers, 6 — Average wages Range of earnings for six months Making belting, hose, rubber-thread, &c., 64— Average wages of men Young persons . . Children Earnings of men Young persons . . Children Weaving and braiding, 101 Average wages of men Women . Young persons Children . Earnings of men Women . Young persons Children . Packing and finishing, 19 — Average wages of women . . Young persons Earnings of women Young persons Dye house, 6 — Average wages of young persons Earnings . Mechanics and miscellaneous, 12 — Average wages of men Youn g persons Earnings of men Youn; g persons D. D. c. 4 00 769 17 to 534 03 1 75 1 08 68 416 25 to 237 60 157 85 131 70 100 91 3 00 1 25 1 00 65 440 16 to 273 00 224 03 156 00 220 00 117 00 101 40 1 17 1 00 252 33 to 224 16 237 20 125 00 1 30 298 00 to 132 25 2 37 1 09 510 87 to 278 20 156 00 Another company employing 142 persons, classifies them as follows : — Machinists . Watchmen . Overseers Rubber hands Finishers Gusset spooler Other spoolers Braiders Gusset weavers Other weavers 2 2 3 9 13 18 24 19 29 23 806 In rubber thread. UNITED STATES. D. c. D. c. Wages of men, from . . 2 75 to 1 50 Women 1 GO 95 Young persons 75 70 Children 50 Earnings per month — Men 72 00 34 25 Women 29 67 16 50 Young persons 26 91 ■ 14 40 The transcript of a single montli's pay roll gave the' following : — Occupation. Received. Average per Month. Average per Day. D. c. D. c. D. c. s. d. 29 gusset weavers . . 1,146 00 49 52 1 90 = 6 4 23 other weavers . . 387 00 16 83 65 2 2 18 gusset spoolers . . 369 47 20 53 78 2 71- 24 other spoolers , . 376 36 15 64 60 2 19 braiders 432 70 22 77 87 2 lOf 13 finishers 348 00 26 77 1 03 3 5A In making car springs and tubing, one company em- ploys- Men .. .. .. .. .. 24 D. c. D. c. Wages, per week . . . ., 20 00 to 10 00 In making rubber shoes, one concern employs 500 persons — Men .. Women . . Young persons Children . Wages — Men Women . . Young persons , , . . Children A rubber-thread establishment, employing 43 per- sons, men and boys, reports a subdiyision of labour as follows :-— , , 180 , , 230 .. 75 15 D. c. D. c. 3 50 to 1 75 2 00 1 00 1 75 83 83 50 UNITED STATES. 807 Engraver • . Fireman . . . t • • • Machinist , , • ■ • ■ Vulcanizer * • ■ • Watchman , , ■ * ■ • Labourers , , . . 2 Ball makers , , • • 3 Cutters . . • • • • ■ • 3 Foremen , , ■ « • > 3 Grinders . , , ■ • • • 6 Calender hands D. c. 7 J), c. Wages . . , , « • .. 4 00 to 75 Earnings per mouth . , .. 125 00 13 00 Common labour. per day .. 1 50 A suspender (braces) manufacturing company, em- in braces. ploying from 250 to 300 persons, seven-eightlis of whom are women, young persons, and children, classifies] its labour as follows : — Dyer Fireman . Teamster Watchman Carpenters Labourers . . Cutters . . Boxmakers . . Overseers Warpers < .. duillers . Spoolers . Stitchers Finishers . . Weavers . Wages — Men Women . Young persons . . Children . . , Earnings per month- Women , Young persons Children . A manufacturer of webbing and circingles states that Wetbing, &c. lie employs from 15 to 35 persons, according to tbe sea- son, two-tbirds of tbem girls and women — Average wages per week— D. c. Men .. .. .. ., .. 10 00 Women . .. .. ,. .. 6 00 Highest of men . . . . . . . , 12 00 Women . . . . . . . . . 9 00 i. 1 1 1 2 6 6 10 10 12 20 20 20 40 100 D. 0. D. c. 4 00 to 1 75 1 25 1 00 1 60 1 00 67 38 12 20 00 28 75 13 80 20 50 15 808 UNITED STATES, Progressive production. 406. Eor these india-rubber and elastic goods the progressive production can be thus indicated. 1850 1860 1870 Dollars. £ 3,024,355 629,500 6,768,450 1,200,000 14,566,374 2,488,700 Oilcloth. Wages. 407. In oilcloth, a small firm in Massachusetts reported in 1871, " 15 persons employed — 10 men, 2 women, 'and 3 young persons" — classified and paid as follows : — D. c. s. d. 1 Foreman .. 3 00 = -. 10 4 Milling hands . . .. 2 50 8 4 2 Vamishers .. 2 50 8 4 4 Helpers .. 1 33 4 5i 1 Engineer .. 1 33 4 5i 1 Boiler . .. 3 00 10 2 Sewing women . , .. 92 3 Of proSra '^^® progressive production of oilcloths has been as follows : — ' Dollars. £ 1850. Oilcloths 1 Oil silk 1 •• .. 1,256,994 = 261,800 1860. Oilcloths .. 2,916,416 608,000 Oil silk 7,000 1,450 1870. Oil cloths .. 4,211,579 702,000 Oil silk 1,400 235 Hair-cloth. 408. The following is a statement of weekly wages in a hair-cloth mill in Rhode Island in 1869 : — D. c. £ s. d. Weavers, women . . . . 8 40 = 1 8 Labourers .. .. .. 11 00 1 16 8 Engineers . . . . . . 1 1 00 1 16 8 Foreman . . . . . . 14 70 2 9 Boys .. ., .. .. 6 60 1 2 Hours of labour, 66. Progressive production. The improved machine for weaving hair, which is due to American invention, is one of much interest, and has accomplished what was previously supposed to be impossible, viz., the taking up mechanically of a single hair from a bundle. The progressive production of hair-cloth has been — Dollars. £ 1860 . . . . . . . . 279,000 = 58,000 1870 .. .. .. .. 467,750 78,000 UNITED STATES. 809 409. I beg to append a list of the books and pampb- Authorities for lets to which I am indebted for much of the informa- '"f"""*"""- tion in this E-eport, and to repeat my acknowledgment of the obligation under which I am to the many persons who have shown me so much courtesy and given me so much information. Neither do I forget to acknowledge that it is to the kindness of my colleague, who was good enough to take my chancery work, and to the kindness of my Chief who permitted this, that I owe the fact of having since its beginning been able to devote to this Report so.much of my time, and the consequent possi- bility of completing it as fully within so brief a period. 410. I cannot close this Report without recording the Americans fact that, in every important branch of industry referred s^'" ^y "^'"ost to in the course of the previous pages, the American men'ts.'™'^'^"" manufactm'ers seem to be ever gaining on their compe- titors of the Old World, by availing themselves to the utmost of every advantage of improved process or labour- saving machinery which American or other invention may offer. There can be little doubt that the celerity Qaickness in with which all such advantages are thought out and then ^pp'y^s *';«"> introduced into general use is owing to the constant pri"e^ofb,bour. pressure of high rates of wage and the comparatively certain protection of capital invested in inventions. ^""^ *° f"^*"' Neither can I close it without observing how favour- ably the great industries of the United States would probably compare with the best organized of the com- peting industries of Europe. The past history and present development of the textile industries is an earnest of a prolific future. Whether or not a reduced cost of living shall ever be attained, one cannot doubt that under sound conditions of production, American American industry will not only supply its home market in most industry a articles, but wUl also become a formidable competitor in co^mpS- in foreign markets in many articles. How soon that com- the future, petition abroad may take place in this or that industry, it is not for me to conjecture. But I think that the data in this Report are suf&ciently full and correct to enable others to predict that time in respect of the cotton and woollen industries. (Signed) J. P. HARRISS GASTRELL. Washington, June 28, 1873. 810 UNITED STATES. P.S. — December 1, 1873. — I am indebted to a recent number of tbe " Bulletin of the Wool Association" for tbe two following Tables. The first sbows with some detail the condition of the import trade in all kinds of textile fabrics for the last ten years : but the increase in sterling yalue would naturally show a higher per-centage than it does in United States' currency. The second Table gives in much greater detail than I had previously been able to obtain, the more trustworthy statistics of the silk industry of the United States. It will be noticed that the actual average earning by each operative per annum was, for the year 1872, over 400 dollars, or nearly 80Z. 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OOt;- OOg g rHrH s ^ -eT efl" of s s « go oeo tj ^ 'S 8 ^ t^ S" fa m fl a a P 3 ^ 3 CO 11 S| f S" g > 5 > eff r-r nf so & o O «D o d 1 o gS "S S : : o M ^ iH : : 00 d P 1 CO ^ ■*«> rHp-H O Oia CO r-< ca o>>« e*Q CO b « t r^ « o i o . .r-K S^ gg S 8^ .^ n coin §1 1^ S**" « t» et 3- J IIS" 00"io xncT <. ^-S 'S ^ OlO Ofr- -a oo ■* .c« F— < PiOJ Si EDca ■*- Stf oo'in efeo oT aTo' to S** C4 00 Old lO r-tOi l-i 6J '3 00 CO ;2 1^1 fl^- 53" '^5 1^ ■«'??ar • ftS m -S ■ *>- 01 -w" '• '• •2^1" c £ S .2 ^ .J3 Ihl ^11 i. ^ ^ 2'=* .9 "S no's bsls ,1- 1^. 1 3 Jill i? il ra g'&S .g 'oS a»£ iw«iii|tif i2 i o fil p< 1^1 oTtuOrt M g- a po pas CO SS •sue [?B.l0d.t00 ' Snun pn'u SS iSS '^S s ^^ s : : : : : : : : ■ : ; ; ; ■ • t^ • • • 00 o ■"• ^ f- ^ t- ■.^ : S S : -2 E- >i ■ E ■ :2 K c. = ~ ■r. 3 If II Ills 1 ^ ^;ij ;^o S ;2;_;> I UNITED STATES. 813 List of Authoeities. History of American. Manufactures. — Bishop. Cotton Manufacture of the United States, 1840. — Montgomeky. Does Protection Protect ? — Gkosyenoe. Industry- of Massachusetts, 1865. Cotton Manufacture. — Bacheldek. Handbook of Cotton Manufacture. — Geldakd. Cotton Spinner. — Baikd. Special Report on Coal. — Sweet. Cotto n Culture in the South. — Loeing ajjd Atkinson. Report on Wool and Woollens. — Mk. E. R. Mudge. Report on Cotton. — Mk. Nouese. The Tariff Question. — Me. Eeastus Bigeiow. Modem Art of Cotton Spinning. — Leigh. Speeches, Addresses, and Letters. — Kellet. The Great Industries of the United States. United States' Tariff, 1872.— Mokgan. Reports of Boards of Trade of Various Cities, Bulletin of the Wool Manufacturers, 1869-73. Statistics of 1850, 1860, and 1870 Census. Dr. Young's " Cost of Labour and Subsistence in the United States, 1870," Publications of Statistical Bureau, Agricultural Monthly Reports. Reports of Massachusetts Labour Bureau, 1869-73. Reports of Special Commission of Revenue. (And mnny other pamphlets and periodical?.) [353] 816 APPENDIX. Italy. Sir A. Paget to Earl Granville. My Lord, Rome, December 4, 1873. I HAVE the honour to transmit to your LordsMp herewitli, a paper containing all the information con- cerning hours of lahour, rates of wages, and progressive increase of production in the spinning and weaving of textile fahrics in Italy, which is to be found in the written evidence laid before the Commission of Industrial Inquiry. I have, &c. (Signed) A. PAGET. Inclosure. Paper containing information respecting Hours of Labour, Rates of Wages, Sfc, embodied in the written evidence laid before the Commission of Industrial Inquiry, Hours op Labour and Eates or Wages. Linen Manufacturers (Hemp and Flax). Spinning. — Twelve hours' labour in some places. As to wages there are no data. Weaving. — Piedmont (Turin), hours, 12 to 15, accord- ing to the season. Liguria, hours, 11 ; wages, for men, 2 fr. to 3 fr. 3 I 2 816 ITALY. 50 c. ; women, 80 c. to 1 fr. 20 'c. ; cMdreiij 40 to 70 c, a-day. Lombardy (Brescia), daily earnings by piece "work, men, from 80 c. to 2 fr, ; women, 80 c. at the most. Venetia (Vicenza), hours, 10 ; wages, men, 2 fr. ; women, 1 fr. 10 c. ; children, 65 c. a-day. Parma, hours, 10 to 13 ; wages (piecework), women, 80 c. to 1 fr. 10 c. ; children, 50 c. Tuscany (Pisa), ayerage daily earnings from 50 to 80 c. Marches, hours, 11 in summer, 9 in. winter ; wages, for women, 50 c. to 1 fr. Selk Manufactures. Spinning.: — Piedmont, hours, 11 to 14; wages, men, 1 fr. 25 c. to 3 fr. ; women, 1 fr. to 2 fr. ; children, 60 c. to 1 fr. Liguria, hours, 10 to 14 ; wages, men, 1 fr. 50 c. to 2 fr. ; women, 60 c. to 2 fr. Venetia, hours, 12 to 15 (with relays) ; wages, women (ordinary hands), 65 c. to 1 fr. 30 c. ; overseers, 2 fr. to 3fr. Lombardy, hours, 8 to 14 ; wages, women, 80 c. to 1 fr. 25 c. N.B. — In many places board and lodging is given besides the above-indicated wages in this branch of manufacture. Throwing and dyeing. — Piedmont, wages, for men, 2fr. ; for women, 30 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. Lombardy, wages, men, 1 fr. 30 c. to 4 fr. ; women, 60 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. ; girls, 30 c. to 80 c. Venetia, wages, men, 1 fr. 50 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. ; women, 50 c. to 1 fr. ; children, 25 c. to 50 c. Weaving. — Piedmont, hours, 10; wages, men, 2 fr. to 4 fr. ; women, 1 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. Liguria, wages, men, 2 fr. to 3 fr. ; women, 80 c. Lombardy, hours, 9 to 12 ; wages, men, 2 fr. to 3 fr. ; women, 30 c. to 2 fr. Venetia, wages, for women, 80 c. ■Woollen MANurAoiuRES. Spinning. — Piedmont, hours, 10 to 12 ; wages, men, 1 fr. 20 c. to 3 fr. ; women, 1 fr. ; children or young persons, 50 c. to 90 c. ITALY. 817 Liguria, hours, 10 ; wages, men, 2 fr. ; children, 1 fr. Lomhardy, hours, 12 ; wages, men, 1 fr. 50 c. ; children, 53 c. Venetia, hours, 10 to 11 ; wages, men, 1 fr. to 2 fr. ; women and children, 50 c. to 80 c. Schio, at Messrs. Rossi and Go's. ; hours, 12, with intervals for breakfast and dinner ; wages, men, 2 fr. 25 c. to 3 fr. 50 c. ; women, 1 fr. ; children, 1 fr ; almost all paid by the piece. Proviene, at Messrs. Rossi and Go's. ; hours, 12, with a rest of an hour in winter, and an hour and a-half in summer ; wages or earnings, men, by piece, 3 fr. 50c.; by day, 2 fr. : women, by piece, 1 fr. 60 c. ; by day, 90 c. : children, by piece, 1 fr. 50 c. ; by day, 80 c. Emilia, hours, 9 to 11 ; wages or earnings, men, by piece, 3 fr. 50 c. ; by day, 1 fr. 50 c. : women, 80 c. : children, 50 c. Rome, hours, 11 ; wages, men, 2 fr. 75 c. ; children, 60 c. Gampania, hours, 12 ; wages, men, 1 fr. 50 c. to 2 fr. ; boys, 35 c. to 70 c. ; women, 30 c. to 50 c. Abruzzi, wages, men, 2 fr. ; women, 1 fr. ; children, 50 c. Weaving. — Piedmont, hours, 11; wages, men, 90 c. to 3 fr. ; women, 90 c. ; children, 50 c. to 80 c. Liguria, hours, 10 ; wages, men, 2 fr. ; children, 1 fr. Lomhardy, hours, 10 to 11| ; wages, men, 1 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. ; women, 45 c. to 1 fr. ; children, 28 c. to 1 fr. ; all paid by piece. Venetia, hours, from 10 to 12 ; wages or earnings, men, from 1 fr. to 4 fr. ; women, from 50 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. ; children, from 50 c. to 1 fr. 10 c. Tuscany, wages, from 50 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. Umbriaj hours, 12 ; wages, men, from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 50 c. ; women, from 50 c. to 1 fr. ; children, 30 c. Gampania, hours, 12 to 14 ; wages, men, 1 fr. to 2 fr. ; women, 40 c. to 50 c. ; children, 50 c. to 80 c. Abruzzi, hours, 11 ; wages, from 1 fr. to 3 fr. Dyeing. — Piedmont, wages, from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 75 c. Venetia, wages, per week, men, 10, 12, 15, and 20 fr. ; women, 1 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. 50 c, 3 fr. 50 c, 4 fr. 50 c, 5 fr. and 6 fr. ; according to season. Umbria, average rate of wages, 1 fr. a-day. Rome, average wages, 2 fr. 50 c. 818 ITALY. Cotton Mantjfacttjbes. Spinning. — Piedmont, hours, 11 and 12 ; wages not stated. Liguria, hours, 10 to 12 ; wages not stated. Lombardy, hours, 11 and 12 ; wages not stated. Weaving. — Piedmont, hours, 12 ; daily earnings, by piece work, men, 1 fr. 50 c. to 3 fr. ; women, 75 c. to 2 fr. ; children, 50 c. to 75 c. Liguria, hours, 10 to 12 ; wages or earnings, men, 2 fr. 50 c, to 4 fr. ; women, 1 fr. to 1 fr. 25 c. ; children, 50 c. to 80 c. (paid partly by piece, and partly by day). Lombardy, hours, 11 ; average wages, by piece, men, 2 fr. ; women, 1 fr.,by day; children, 60 c. Venetia, hours, 10 to 11 ; wages, men, 2 fr. to 5 fr. ; women, 50 c. to 1 fr. Tuscany, hours, from 7 to 12 ; wages, men, 1 fr. 30 c. to 2 fr. ; women, 56 c. to 1 fr. Neapolitan Provinces, hours, 11 to 13 ; wages, 1 fr. 50 c. ; women, 85 c. ; children, 50 c. Dyeing. — Piedmont, wages, for men, from 1 fr. 60 c. to 2 fr. 75 c. Venetia, wages, for men, 10 fr. to 20 fr. a-week, and 1 fr. to 2 fr. a-day ; women, 3 fr. 85 c. a-week. Tuscany, wages, for men, from 1 fr. 30 c. to 1 fr. 85 c. Genoa, wages, for men, 2 fr. to 3 fr. 20 c. a-day. Lombardy, average wages, 2 fr, a-day. With regard to production in different branches of manufacture, all the statistics to be found in the evidence taken by the Industrial Commission are contained in. the foUowiag estimates : — Cotton Spinning. Number of spindles as estimated by Signer Giovanni Maria Mousset, of the Province of Ouneo (Piedmont) : — Spindles. Piedmont • . .. 209,150 Genoese . . . . 120,000 Lombardy . . .. 183,200 Venetia 34,000 Neapolitan Provinces . . .. 101,000 Total .. .. .. 647,350 ITALY. 819 According to a statement laid before the Commission at Turia by M. Paolo Mazzonis, the total number of spindles in Italy was in 1862, 480,000, and in 51871, 500,000. Silk. The following statement is given of the quantity of raw silk produced in Italy ia each of the undermentioned periods : — Before the appearance of the silk-worm disease [query, the produce of 1862?) In 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 Kilogs. 3,710,000 2,308,000 1,731,000 1,762,000 1,800,000 2,000,000 1,900,000 2,150,000 3,180,000 3,473,000 Woollens. Statement furnished by Mr. Rossi, of Schio. (See Mr. Herries' Commercial Report of July 1872,) Total annual value of wooUen manufactures in Italy, according to the prices current in the last four months of 1871, 83,000,000 fr. • It was calculated by Mr. Hossi, in 1868, at 74,280,000 fr. These figures do not include the production of the E-oman Provinces.