BOUGHT WITH THE INCO FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT THE GIFT OF ilenrg W. Sag* X891 ME FUND 1 /..■../ , S^jfM^ljQ Cornell University Library DT 425.C45 I 3 1924 028 595 993 Cornell University Library The original of tinis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028595993 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT .mm ^^^1_ (^:^2a- <^^2^.<^c^ THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT ^//i/,. ' ' TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA BY WILLIAM ASTOR CHANLER A.M. (Harv.), F.R.aS. HONORARY MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL AND ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF VIENNA With Illustrations from Photographs taken by the Author AND MAPS " When I travelled I saw many things; and I understand more than I can express " ECCLESIASTICUS xxxiv. II Weto gotfe MACMILLAN AND CO. LONDON : MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. 1896 All rights reserved A.'^M-O^SO Copyright, i8g6. By MACMILLAN AND CO- Wortooot) ^rcss J. S. Gushing & Co. — Berwick & Smith Norwood Mass. U.S.A. /^A TO JUDGE CHARLES P. DALY PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY rN RECOGNITION OF MUCH KINDLY ADVICE AND ENCOURAGEMENT THIS NARRATIVE OF TWO YEARS' WORK IN AFRICA IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR PREFACE In giving this book to the press I gratefully acknowl- edge the help I have received in preparing it from numerous friends, and especially from the Hon. Theo- dore Roosevelt, to whose encouragement and advice its present appearance is largely due. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER I I CHAPTER n . .40 CHAPTER ni 76 CHAPTER IV 117 CHAPTER V . 154 CHAPTER VI 203 CHAPTER VII 266 CHAPTER VIII 327 CHAPTER IX 378 CHAPTER X 448 CHAPTER XI 482 index' 521 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE William Astor Chanler ..... Frontispiece Lieutenant Ludwig von Hohnel ...... Face i Borassus Palm 2 Outskirts of Lamu ......... 3 Type of Porter 8 Whole Force of the Zanzibari . . . . . . -13 Our Camp at Mkonumbi . . . . . . . -19 Somali Hut .......... 26 A Village of Mkonumbi 31 Galla Girl 37 Our Pokomo Boatmen 39 Vignette 41 Village of Kinekombe . -45 Scene in Camp on the Coast . . . . . . -47 Pokomo Boat Builders at Work . . . . . . -53 Our Canoes .......... 59 Camels on the March ......... 65 Camp at Hameye . . . . . . . . .71 My Whole Force drawn up . . . . . . . .81 Hippopotamus Hunt on the Mackenzie River . . . -87 Hippopotamus Hunt on the Mackenzie River .... 93 Acacia and Thorn Scrub .... ... 99 xi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Baobab Tree 109 Dhum Palm and Acacia 114 Chanler Falls 119 Canyon above Chanler Falls 125 Dead Rhinoceros .... 130 The Author, with Vanguard of Soudanese 13s Camp on the Plain near Lorian . 142 Scene near Lorian .... 145 Wamsara Elders .... 156 Type of Landscape .... 163 A Charge of Wamsara 168 Mode of carrying the Sick 180 Porters on the March ■ 195 Loading Camels — pile of ammunition in the foreground 204 Unloading Camels — showing mode of carrying Berthon boat 207 Scene on the Tana ... ... 211 Native Huts of the Wa-daitcho . 214 Ant Hill .... . . 221 Embe Girl carrying Wood .... 231 Our Camp at Daitcho 235 Chief Natives of the Embe 243 Embe Shepherds 250 Liria, most Influential Man among the Embe 258 An Embe Donkey 270 Tent Boys 278 Oryx Beisa 283 Dead Rhinoceros 291 Unloading of Camels 301 Karscho 303 Mahomet Aman .... 305 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Scene in Camp Guaso Nyiro River, near where we found Rendile Type of Landscape Native Bridge — a chasm in the Guaso Nyiro River Men playing Cards in Camp .... Scene on the Guaso Nyiro River Some of my Men with Ivory .... Donkeys crossing Dry River-bed In Trouble with our Donkeys .... At the Head-waters of the Mackenzie . Native Village — wall and gateway Camp Scene at Daitcho ..... Soudanese Guard at Gate .... Daitcho Dancing Daitcho Dancing . .... The Leader of the Dance Daitcho Ladies in Full Ball Costume . Beri-Beri, Medicine-man and Poisoner of the Daitcho Cervicapra Chanleri . Scene on the Tana Scene on the Tana Country near Guaso Nyiro River Large Baobab Tree Wakamba Warriors Bridge across the Tana Vignette Wakamba Medicine-men Dick's Grave at Mwyru Mgundu Ramazan and Mgundu PAGE 311 319 32s 332 339 351 360 370 381 394 401 403 407 411 415 419 421 428 429 437 444 447 460 46s 477 481 484 488 491 496 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Cocoanut-oil Mill 501 Variety of Porters' Habitations 512 Vignette 516 Map of Tana District and Northeastern Kenya Region. General View of East Africa, showing the Route of the Expedition. Lieutenant Ludwig von Hohnel THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT oXXo CHAPTER I The journey the description of which will be found in the following pages was one planned and undertaken, by me in cooperation with Lieutenant von Hohnel, for the purpose of adding something to the world's knowledge of that portion of East Africa hitherto unexplored, lying between the Tana and Juba rivers. Lieutenant von Hohnel, my companion upon this journey, is an officer in the Imperial and Royal Austro- Hungarian Navy. In the year 1888 he accompanied Count Teleki, an Hungarian nobleman, upon an expe- dition into East Africa, which lasted nearly two years, as a result of which much was added to the scientific knowledge of this portion of that continent, especially by the discovery of the great lakes Rudolph and Stephanie. The wonderfully exact map made by Lieu- tenant von Hohnel attracted the attention of all geog- raphers to his work ; and the book descriptive of that journey added greatly to his fame, and conveyed a vast amount of new and interesting information. My journey was undertaken purely in the interest of science, and, such being the case, I esteemed myself THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT most fortunate in securing the cooperation of Lieu- tenant von Hbhnel. What he accomplished for geog- raphy will be seen from an inspection of the maps accompanying this volume. But one other white man accompanied us ; this was my servant, George Galvin, an American boy nineteen BORASsus Palm years of age. He had accompanied me upon my first expedition to Africa, at which time he was but sixteen years of age, and had not only proved himself capable, in an astonishing degree, of withstanding the hardships incident to African travel, but had also developed marked capability in the work connected with the TRA VELS IN EASTERN AFRICA caravan. Throughout the narrative, I shall speak of him as George ; and as the story progresses, the reader will be able to judge of his behaviour. The expedition of Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hohnel determined the northern limit of the Masai race, and penetrated almost to the regions inhabited by the Galla. Between Lakes Rudolph and Stephanie and the Indian Ocean there lies a large area of country, which until our journey had resisted attempts at explo- ration. The natives inhabiting that portion of the — j'i-v'jv!iiniy-«fiv/'."j^»'V' Outskirts of Lamu coast are Somali, and they proved in every way hostile to Europeans. Baron Vanderdecken had met his death at Bardera, a few miles from the coast, in the year 1867. Since that time few efforts had been made, and " they were attended with anything but success. Both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had had some experience in African travel, and we decided that an exploration of this part of the country was feasible, provided entrance was made south of the region over which the Somali held sway. The River Tana, which flows from Mount Kenya to the Indian Ocean, had been proved by the journeys of Denhardt, Peters, and THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT Dundas to be navigable for more than 200 miles from the sea ; and, in consequence, it seemed to us a suitable point at which to commence our journey. It was our intention to ascend the river, and, upon reaching the limits of navigation, to strike to the north, and penetrate as far as possible into the interior. From information received, we had come to the con- clusion that the Somali tribes did not extend their wanderings many miles from the coast lying between Kismayu and Lamoo, at the mouth of the Tana River, and that the Juba River formed the southern boundary of the wanderings of the Somali inhabiting the country immediately south of Berbera ; so that, by taking the Tana route, we should effect an entrance into the country without coming into contact with the Somali. Of the tribes inhabiting the country between the Juba and the Tana rivers we had no definite knowl- edge. Lieutenant von Hohnel and Count Teleki, on their former journey along the eastern shore of Lake Rudolph, saw signs and gathered intelligence of a large tribe called Rendile. The exact habitat of this tribe was unknown, but they were supposed to range from Lake Stephanie, in the north, to some point near Mount Kenya, in the south. They were said to be possessed of vast herds of camels, horses, donkeys, sheep, goats, and cattle. This wealth had made them the object of attacks from the Somali on the coast, and from the Masai and other tribes lying to the south and west of them. Owing to this fact, it was said, they were con- tinually on the move — stopping but long enough in one place to exhaust the pasturage, and then moving on again in search of food and water for their flocks. TRAVELS IN- EASTERN AFRICA The presence of this tribe in the part of the country to which I have referred we took for granted ; and the fact that they were possessed of beasts of burden, suitable for the purposes of a caravan, entered largely into our calculations. In the make-up and personnel of our caravan we had so arranged matters that, upon meeting this tribe, we might renew our means of porterage (sure to be weak- ened and reduced by the journey); we hoped that our caravan, strengthened by this means, would be enabled to proceed without difficulty for a great distance and length of time in search of fresh fields for exploration. Both Lieutenant von Hbhnel and I had come to the conclusion, that the use of men as a means of porterage was not only troublesome and costly, but, from the very exigencies of African travel, cruel in the extreme. Our ideas then turned in the direction of obviating, as far as possible, the necessity of using men ; but not knowing whether the climatic conditions of the country lying be- tween the coast and the Rendile (from whom we hoped to purchase cattle, etc.) were suited for beasts of burden, we were forced to employ, at least for the outset of our expedition, men for the transportation of our goods. To these we added fifteen camels, fifty donkeys, and ten oxen. The porters used in East Africa are the people called " Zanzibari," and made famous by Stanley and other travellers. Few of these people are natives of Zanzibar — being mostly slaves bought by the Arabs from the numerous tribes in the interior, and leased out by their masters as porters to any European making up a caravan. As is to be expected, their intelligence is not of a high order, and they are accustomed to but one 6 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. sort of work; namely, bearing burdens upon their heads and shoulders. We hoped, however, should we be fort- unate enough to reach the Rendile, and purchase camels from them, to instruct our porters in the care of these beasts, and, further, to use them, should necessity arise, as an armed force. For the management and care of the beasts of burden I engaged seven Somali. These people possess camels, flocks, and horses of their own at home, and conse- quently are well fitted for such work. Owing to the warlike nature of the tribes through which we expected to pass, we engaged twelve Soudanese soldiers from Mas- sowah. Thus my caravan was composed of three dis- tinct peoples. These we hoped to weld into one efficient whole, notwithstanding the fact that we had been warned that their cohesion was not to be expected in an African expedition, particularly when it is borne in mind that their customs as well as characters differ in a great degree. As the narrative of our journey progresses, it will be found which view was the correct one. The Tana River enters the Indian Ocean near the town of Lamoo, and we pitched upon this place as the starting-point of our journey. The preparations for a journey of exploration in the interior of Africa cannot possess great attraction to the general reader, and, there- fore, little stress will be laid upon the detail. All the material which it was possible to procure in Europe had been purchased and packed either in Lon- don or in Vienna ; and from these points we shipped them directly to Lamoo. There yet remained, however, the enlistment of men, the purchase of beasts of burden, with their pack-saddles, etc., and a thousand and one TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA little things which are procurable only on the coast of Africa. Through the kindness of the Italian authorities at Massowah, we were enabled to procure the Soudanese ; and it is not the fault of our kind friends there that the quality of these men was not better than it later proved. The Somali were engaged at Aden ; there, likewise, we purchased the saddles for our camels and two horses. This portion of the work was attended to by Lieutenant von Hohnel — I going to Zanzibar to engage porters. I could not have chosen a more inopportune time for the enlistment of porters at Zanzibar. The British East Africa Company, bent upon the retention of Uganda, had practically exhausted the supply of porters, and a missionary caravan was on the point of starting to the interior. Apparently, a porter was worth his weight in gold, and almost as difficult to procure as is that precious metal. However, I brought excellent letters to the au- thorities at Zanzibar, and my friend. Sir Gerald Portal (since deceased), was at that time the British Agent and Consul-General at this place. This gentleman offered me every assistance in his power, and instructed General Sir Lloyd Matthews, the efficient Prime Minister to the Sultan of Zanzibar, to throw the great weight of his local influence into the scales in my behalf. Moreover, the American Consul, Mr. Jones, procured me an audi- ence with His Highness the Sultan, Seyd Ali, who kindly permitted me to enlist porters in my service. Although permission had been granted me, yet, in order not to excite the jealousy of others in search of por- ters, the enlistment of the men was carried on in a more or less secret manner. Runners were sent out to the neighbouring plantations with the news that an expedi- THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. tion having the sanction of the Government was about to be formed ; and soon, by twos and threes, men came to my agents, received three months' wages in advance, and signed on as porters. Each man brought with him, as sponsor, some responsible person, who was held answer- able for his appearance on the da\ set for our departure from I Zanzibar. It may have interest for some to state the wages paid these por- ters — each man re- ceived twelve rupees per month. At this time the rupee was low, and the equivalent of twelve rupees was somewhat less than ^4.00, a sum which is there considered very good pay. If the porter is a free- man, he retains the entire amount received ; if a slave, he must give one-half to his master. In the course of one month I secured 130 men — though " man " is a term which could be properly ap- plied to but few ; for, owing to the scarcity of material, in many instances I was compelled to accept mere youths and men of inferior physique. Type of Porter TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA As all readers of African travel are aware, the most important of the porters of a caravan is the headman. I had hoped to engage the headman of my former jour- ney, who had also accompanied Royal Phelps Carroll upon his shooting expedition to Masai Land. Unfortu- nately, he, being a slave, was at that time away upon a trading journey up-country in the service of his master. I deemed myself fortunate, however, in being able to se- cure the man who had performed the duties of second headman on my former journey — by name, Hamidi. He was a young and intelligent native of the Comoro Islands ; he had served in many up-country expeditions, and had behaved, as far as my experience and the testi- mony of others went, in an efificient and trustworthy manner upon all occasions. To him I left the choice of three under-headmen. As his first lieutenant he chose one Mohamadi, who had been second headman on the unfortunate expedition which resulted in the death of Captain Stairs. The other two headmen were unknown to me, but I was assured by Hamidi that they were capable and trust- worthy. I succeeded in getting but one porter who had accom- panied me on my former journey, but was more fortu- nate in the matter of tent-boys, employed as body sei'vants. Two of these are worthy of some mention — I refer to those attached to my own person, Sururu and Baraka. Sururu had served with Mr. Stanley three years on the Congo, and had been engaged in any num- ber of missionary caravans. He had on one occasion seen his master shot before his eyes during an Arab up- rising, had travelled more miles on foot than I care to lo THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. state, and carried with him testimonials of good conduct from every one he had served. In temperament he showed but few negro traits — he appeared to be actu- ally fond of work, and, until his allotted task was com- pleted, never allowed himself to rest. He was silent and attentive; somewhat stern with his fellow-servants during work time, but when work was over, and he was stretched at ease among his companions, he was one of the most garrulous talkers it has been my lot to hear. He had a round bullet-head, supported on the slightest possible frame; round, but intelligent, eyes; scarcely any nose; and lips full, to be sure, but firmly pressed to- gether. The other boy, Baraka, was an absolute contrast to his companion, being strong and sturdily built. His ex- perience in caravan work was nearly as great as that of Sururu, but of a very different sort, for Baraka had been employed in every capacity, from that of donkey-boy to porter. His disposition was cheerful and even, and re- sembled in greater degree that of an American negro than any other native African I have met. For Lieu- tenant von Hohnel I was able to procure one of the ser- vants whom he had employed on his former journey. Lieutenant von Hohnel and I sailed from Europe on the 1 2th of June, 1892. On August 14 we reached Lamoo with all of the men and some of the beasts of burden. There we met George, who had arrived some days before with the goods from Europe. Town-life in Africa is not well suited to the native members of a caravan. Temptations, small to the civilized European, surround the native at every turn; so that it was with all speed that we shipped our men I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA ii and goods upon small native dhows, and transported them to a village called Mkonumbi, twenty-three miles from Lamoo and its dangerous allurements. Here we pitched our first camp. We had already ascertained that it was possible to buy camels at Kismayu, a little over loo miles north of Lamoo. Shortly after our arrival at Mkonumbi, Lieutenant von Hbhnel, attended by four of our Somali, set out by steamer for Kismayu in order to procure the camels. During his absence I devoted my time to put- ting the camp in order, and arranging everything for our departure into the interior. Mkonumbi, till within a few years of our arrival, had been a portion of the Sultanate of Witu. The Sultan- ate of Witu consisted of the territory lying between the Tana River and the town of Lamoo. Its autonomy was not recognized by the Sultan of Zanzibar, who had at many different times sent expeditions thither for its subjugation ; none of which, however, proved successful. In 1886 the Germans established a protectorate over this sultanate ; and, following upon the protectorate, a number of Germans settled in the neighbourhood of Witu as colonists. In 1889, eleven of these settlers were murdered at the instigation of the Sultan, Fumo Omari by name. By treaty, dated 1890, Witu was transferred by the Germans to the British, who at once sent an expedition for the punishment of the natives who had murdered the eleven Europeans. This expedition was crowned with the usual success of such undertakings. The town of Witu was totally destroyed, and the Sultan, Fumo Omari, together with most of his followers, fled to the 12 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap, i forests of Pumwani, in the immediate neighbourhood, where he made a stand. At the time of my arrival he was said to have looo guns at his command. His followers, thus armed, he employed for the most part in ravaging the neighbour- ing Arab plantations and native villages. What plunder, such as slaves, etc., he managed to acquire by these raids, he exchanged with the Somali for ivory, guns, caps, powder, and lead. The Somali with whom he traded came from points as far north as Kismayu. One of their number, Bar- falatta by name, finding the business engaged in by the Sultan of Witu profitable, attracted to himself a number of runaway slaves and renegade Arabs. With these he established himself at a point not far from Pumwani, called Jongeni. Both of these places, Pumwani and Jongeni, were in the neighbourhood of Mkonumbi, where I pitched my first camp. The British East Africa Company, as a check upon these raids, had established upon the site of the old town of Witu a garrison consisting of 150 Indian soldiers, under the command of two officers. This force had had several engagements with the raiders established at Pumwani and Jongeni ; but had been unable, owing to their small number and the difficult nature of the country, to drive the raiders from the territory. My arrival at Mkonumbi, with a respectable force at my command (160 men), was construed by the rival chiefs (Fumo Omari and Barfalatta) as a demonstra- tion of increased hostility on the part of the Europeans; and, perhaps in consequence, the raids during my stay at Mkonumbi became fewer and upon a smaller scale. O (14 CHAP. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 15 The town of Lamoo is situated about twenty-three miles from Mkonumbi, on an island bearing the same name. It is inhabited by a people very different from the Arabs of Zanzibar. While it is true there are some pure-blooded Arabs among them, yet most of the people are the product of union between Arabs and natives of the islands of Lamoo, Manda, Patta, and Siu. It is un- certain whence the natives of these islands originally came. They are lighter in colour than the inhabitants of the coast, more intelligent, and, in a degree, their life is more civilized. In the native manufactures they ex- cel; and the caps and sandals of better manufacture worn in Zanzibar all come from these islands. They are a light-hearted and treacherous race. They carry to a much higher point than the natives of any other portion of the coast of East Africa ideas of organized amusement. As far as it went, they had a keen idea of sport. On certain days of the year they had boat races, foot races, and matches of all sorts, in which both sexes took part. It is needless to add that their morals were of the lowest possible order. The governor of the town of Lamoo was a cousin of the Sultan of Zanzibar, by name Abdullah Ben Hamed. The British East Africa Company had leased the trading rights of the coast from the Sultan of Zanzibar. At the town of Lamoo this company was represented by two officials, who, through the influence of the Arab governor, and by his assistance, managed to preserve some sort of discipline and order there. Be- side these two representatives of the British East Africa Company, two other Europeans resided there, Germans, named Teide and Denhardt, engaged in trade i6 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. with the natives, and in the management of several plantations. Gustave Denhardt, in company with his brother and the late Dr. Fischer, had been the first to ascend the Tana River. At this time he had been a resident of that portion of the country about twelve years; during which period he had endeared himself to the natives, and had acquired a considerable influence over them. Both Messrs. Denhardt and Teide proved of the great- est assistance to our expedition, and we are much indebted to them for their kind offices. Having decided to make use of the Tana River as a means of transporting a portion of our goods a distance of 200 miles into the interior, it became necessary for me to engage canoes and boatmen for the purpose. Shortly after my arrival at Mkonumbi, Mr. Denhardt and I set out for Kau, on the banks of the Tana River, to arrange our little river column. We engaged eight large dug-outs; and, through Mr. Denhardt's relations with the natives inhabiting this portion of the banks of the Tana, I was enabled to engage twenty boatmen. These people are called Pokomo. They are here small cultivators, and derive most of the means for their subsistence from their canoes, which are much in demand to convey the produce (such as rice, corn, etc.) grown near the banks of the Tana at inland points to the coast, whence it is shipped to Lamoo. Living, as they do, in small, ill-protected villages, they are an easy mark for the raiders from Pumwani and Jongeni ; who, when the crops are ripe, swarm down upon the Pokomo, and force them to cut their crops and carry them away to these two towns. In physique, as a I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 17 result of their canoe labour, these people are wonder- fully developed. I placed in charge of the Pokomo, as captain of the fleet, a native of Kau, Zanzibari in race, named Sadi. He was a suave, good-mannered, and at the same time trustworthy negro, who had accompanied Messrs. Den- hardt and Fischer upon their first trip up the Tana, and had since then been engaged in many trading expeditions. He spoke the language of the Pokomo, and was loved and respected by them. He was par- ticularly proud of his birth, and with great satisfaction did he mention the fact that his sister had at one time been a concubine of the former Sultan of Zanzibar. Having arranged for the presence of the canoes and their crews at Kau upon a date in the near future, we returned to Mkonumbi. Surrounding Mkonumbi is an undulating plain, covered, for the most part, with high grass, the conti- nuity of which is at a few points broken by small groups of dhum palms. Here and there, bordering upon swamps and small streams, were found forests composed of tall sycamores and other trees, whose branches, burdened with trailing vines and creepers, were filled with hordes of small monkeys and birds of gayly coloured plumage. The appearance of the country as a whole would not be called tropical, at least at the time of the year when I visited it ; namely, the middle of the dry season. Owing to the raids of the Pumwani and Jongeni people, cultivation of the soil was carried on but in a meagre manner. In former days, when the Sultan of Witu held sway, the whole country was covered with 1 8 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap, i plantations devoted to the cultivation of Indian com, millet, and tobacco; and before the herds of the people were destroyed by the cattle plague, which occurred in 1889, many thousands of cattle, sheep, and goats were raised. At that time this country was one of the richest on the east coast of Africa. In the midst of this vast plain, now covered with tall grass, may yet be found stalks of wild millet and stunted Indian corn, which lend their testimony to the fact that what is now but a prairie had once been the scene of considerable agri- cultural industry. Along the banks of the Tana, and for some distance to the eastward, dense forests are to be found, where the rubber plant is plentiful. Our camp at Mkonumbi was 200 to 300 yards from the shore, along which were scattered fifty or sixty palm-thatched huts. These comprised the village of Mkonumbi. In the centre of our camp rose two large mango trees, whose thick branches afforded a grateful shade from the tropical sun. Under these trees we pitched our three tents. A space of three acres in extent was cleared of grass and brush, and fenced in by a strong thorn hedge. Around the inner side of this enclosure we placed the huts, thatched with straw or palm leaves, for the use of the porters. Two gates, one on the side toward the river, and the other on the opposite side of the camp, were guarded by my Soudanese. In front of our tents, in a space left open for that purpose, were placed the tents in which were stored the ammunition, trading-goods, and provisions. In one corner of our camp was placed a square, box- like edifice, constructed from camel saddles. This was the habitation of the Somali. z; o a s CHAP. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 21 Upon arriving at Mkonumbi, I had the roll called and arranged the men in alphabetical order, giving to each a number. This number I had stamped upon the outfit given to each man. The outfit consisted of a Werndl carbine, a belt, cartridge-box, bayonet, and water-bottle. The Soudanese I armed with Mannlicher repeating rifles of the latest pattern. Moreover, they were clad in a species of uniform, which, though it may sound ridiculous in civilization, was the pride of the Soudanese, and the envy and admiration of all behold- ers. This uniform consisted first of baggy trousers of Turkish pattern made of white cotton drill; putties, such as are worn by the Indian army, encasing their calves; a long, blue, butcher's jumper, reaching nearly to the knees, and a bright red fez placed on their heads. They were particularly pleased with the fez, which was identical with the headgear of the Egyptian army. Wearing it once more made them forget that they had ever revolted against His Highness, the Khedive, and consider that in some way I was connected with his government. Most of my twelve Soudanese, as I after- wards discovered, were ex-Mahdists, some of whom had taken part in the battle against General Hicks, while others boasted of having slain British soldiers at Abu- klea, and in the fights about Suakim. The Soudanese were tall, martial-looking men, wild- eyed and savage, to be sure, but in appearance, at least, accustomed to the discipline of a soldier. In a short time, however, I learned that their martial bearing was more the result of a defiant spirit than of any concep- tion of soldierly obedience. The chief of the Soudanese gloried in the title, Balook Bashi. He had seen service 22 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. with the Italians, and, as I afterwards learned, had been dismissed for continued drunkenness and chronic ineffi- ciency. His name was Mahomet el Hussein. He had been placed in command of the men at the time of their engagement in compliance with their expressed wish ; and they had sworn to obey him and, through him, the Europeans connected with the expedition. It was soon made manifest why he had been the choice of the men as their officer. He disclosed won- derful capabilities for incessant importuning, never, as he persistently declared, in his own behalf, but in the interest of his devoted followers. Day after day, when I left my tent in the morning, I would find him seated near its valance with an expression of modest depreca- tion upon his face. Upon seeing me, he would rise, salute in the most approved military fashion, and then, in a low, whining voice, he would proceed to unburden himself of a long list of complaints. His part of the conversation was carried on in the only language with which he was familiar — Arabic. At that time I was totally unacquainted with this tongue ; so it became necessary at these recitals to call in the assistance of an interpreter. The interpreter to whom we had recourse was another of the Soudanese, named Ramazan, who, having seen service in German East Africa, spoke Swa- hili fluently — a language with which I was well con- versant. The difference between the Balook Bashi and his interpreter was very marked. Ramazan stood six feet two, without his sandals, was as black as coal, possessed fierce eyes and a smooth, round face. The Balook Bashi was the shortest of my Soudanese. His complexion was I TRAVELS TN EASTER AT AFRICA 23 of a chocolate colour ; he carried his head forward, as though in the act of avoiding a blow; his eyes were furtive in expression, and the slightest movement of his hands seemed to lead to a deprecating shrug of his shoulders. He alone, of all my Soudanese, lacked the martial bearing of a soldier. During these interviews, Ramazan translated fluently and, as far as possible, with dignity the ridiculous com- plaints of his superior. After a short experience I came to the conclusion that, although it would be impol- itic to check these complaints, it was a prodigal waste of time to listen to them. So, at the end of a long harangue, I would dismiss Mahomet el Hussein with as pleasant a smile as I could conjure up, and an assur- ance that I would look into the matter. This method of dealing with the complaints achieved the result antici- pated and intended. The men, discovering that their choice of Balook Bashi was an unsatisfactory one, treated this officer with all the contempt he deserved, and paved a way toward a change of my relations with them. Find- ing the complaints made through their chief ofificer were unheeded, the Soudanese began to come individually to make their statements, and by this means I was able to gather a more or less clear knowledge of the indi- vidual character of each. One among the Soudanese, Juma Moussa by name, I soon discovered was at the bottom of every complaint made, no matter by which of the men it was presented. This man was a native of Wadai, a kingdom situated in the very centre of Africa, and lying between the province of Bahr el Ghazal and the kingdom of Bornu. In early youth he had wandered with a caravan to 24 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. Suakim, where he had been promptly sold as a slave, and sent to Jiddah. There he spent many years as a soldier in the body-guard of one of the chief Arabs, acquiring, as may be supposed, all the habits and man- ners of a soldier of fortune. He eventually made his escape from Jiddah, going to and settling in Massowah, over which place the ItaHans exercised a protectorate. He there learned the trade of a stone-mason, at which, it was reported, he was an adept ; but his lawlessness and drunkenness were such that he spent much of his time in prison, and was finally dismissed from the town by the authorities. He, how- ever, made himself useful to them by stealing guns from the Mahdists, who at that time were stationed in the immediate neighbourhood of Massowah. As can well be imagined, this was an occupation which required the utmost daring and address ; for, had he been captured, his life would have been forfeited. When engaged by Lieutenant von Hohnel, he had just completed a term in prison. He had enlisted with us only for the purpose of get- ting the advance money and promptly deserting. This resolution on his part, I am sorry to say, he was pre- vented from carrying into execution. He now longed to return to Massowah, and spared no pains to cause all the trouble and discontent possible among the Soudan- ese, with such end in view. In appearance, he was about forty years of age, tall and powerfully built, with small, ferocious eyes, a straight nose, a fierce moustache which would have brought pride and credit to any dragoon, and a sharply pointed beard. His voice was harsh, and his manner of speech that of a braggart. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 25 Being voluble in conversation and cheery in manner towards his companions, he soon established an ascen- dency over them. Among the other Soudanese but two seem worthy of mention. Herella, a native of Darfertit, a country to the southward of Wadai, was about twenty-four years of age. He had served as a Mahdist, and was present at the defeat and death of Wad el Nejumi, who was one of Mahdi's most trusted Ameers. Unlike the rest of the Soudanese, he made no pretence of being a Mohamme- dan, but frankly admitted that the people of his country ate pig (which means death to the followers of Islam) ; and added, with cheerful insistence, that a hungry stom- ach knew no law. He was one of the most perfect sav- ages I had then met. His bearing was at all times that of a wild animal, and his hatred of discipline was made manifest at every turn. Hussein Mahomet was the other; and he, perhaps, was the most serviceable type of any of my Soudanese. Born a Hadendowa (a tribe found near Suakim), he had from the first followed the fortunes of Osman Digna, his chief, in the wars of the Mahdi. Until the continued defeats which Osman Digna suffered at the hands of the English, and the death of the Mahdi, he had been thor- oughly convinced of the divine mission of the Mahdi, and the wickedness of all Europeans. When, however, his tribe was almost destroyed by incessant war, and his chief a fugitive, he decided to give up his allegiance, and trust himself to whatever treatment the Italians would accord. I found him stupid in the extreme ; a fanatical Mohammedan, never so happy as when at prayer, but obedient and trustworthy to the last degree. 26 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. The men who proved the most useful in my caravan were the seven Somali. Two of these had served with Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hohnel in the years 1888 and 1889; their names were Mohamet Aman and Karscho, The former of these I placed in command of his compatriots, and the latter I made my gun-bearer. Mohamet Aman was a very black fellow, some thirty years of age, with the well-developed head of his race, and very large, intelligent eyes. As a worker he was practically untiring. He was able to read the numerals Somali Hut on my boxes and loads, and capable of carrying in his head many details which a European would find it nec- essary to transmit to paper. His special province was the charge of all the goods. Karscho was tall, light in colour, possessed of really beautiful features of abso- lutely Caucasian type, and active and lithe as a panther. He was devotion itself, but lacked the qualities of pa- tience and self-control, which are so necessary for a leader. Another of the Somali was Achmet Dualla. He had been employed as a soldier with Dr. Peters' expedition. He was very stupid, but willing and un- tiring in his work. The other four Somali lacked I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 27 distinctive characteristics, and need have no special mention. On August 24, 1892, Lieutenant von Hohnel arrived by steamer from Kismayu, bringing with him 15 camels and 10 fine oxen capable of bearing burdens. He had found Kismayu and the natives thereof in an excited state, and the reception accorded him was anything but friendly. The cause of this was soon made manifest. A Somali named Jama Yusuf, who had formerly served Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hohnel, but who was at this time employed as court interpreter at Mombasa, had sent a letter to the chiefs at Kismayu, warning them against us, and advising them to hinder our entrance into the country as far as lay in their power. Lieuten- ant von Hohnel, however, allayed their fears, and besides the purchase of the animals above mentioned, acquired some interesting information in regard to the country lying to the westward of Kismayu. Before the return of Lieutenant von Hohnel, life in .camp at Mkonumbi had begun to assume a busy as- pect. I divided my porters into three companies, and, in order to render them accustomed to the word of com- mand, put them through simple drills daily. After a few days of this work I set about giving them instruc- , tion in the use of their rifles, as but few had the slightest conception of the nature and purposes of the weapons. It took days before I could teach most of them the use of the sights. At the beginning many were actually unable to close but one eye ; for, after closing one, the eyelid of the other invariably drooped until that eye too was shut ; and to the very end of the expedition some two or three were forced to do their shooting with both 28 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. eyes open. Day after day I took them to a level spot near camp, and instructed them to load and raise their rifles to their shoulders, and aim at the word of com- mand. After two weeks of this sort of work I put up targets, and gave each of the men three shots. By this I learned that but a small number of them had derived any profit from the hours of toil which I had spent daily in their instruction. I discovered, nevertheless, that some thirty of them could hit a large packing-case at a distance of eighty yards, if given sufficient time to take aim. After the expenditure of 2000 rounds of ammunition I was compelled to satisfy myself with this result. The Soudanese, needless to say, were soon all excel- lent shots, and took a certain pride in their weapons. The Somali likewise readily acquired a good knowledge of shooting. I will outline a day of our life while in camp at Mko- numbi. At 5.30 a.m. the tomtom beat, and the porters fell in, drawn up in two companies. The roll was called by George, and he examined the rifles, pouches, water- bottles, and bayonets. Each man had a number, and all his outfit bore the same ; so inspection was quickly made. Then I summoned the Soudanese, inspected their rifles, and told them the hour they were to drill. At 6 A.M. we had breakfast, consisting of eggs, bacon, coffee or tea, and jam. At 7 the Soudanese were drilled for two hours, and then one of the companies of porters was taken out and exercised until noon, when we had luncheon. This consisted of chicken and curried rice, with a bottle of mild beer, followed by a small cup of strong coffee and a cigarette. After luncheon we took I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 29 a short siesta, and then again to the drill-ground, where I gave the men a little target practice. In this work I was assisted by Lieutenant von Hohnel, and sometimes by George, when he was not engaged in arranging the boxes and loads. At 2 P.M. the tomtom was sounded, and the men again fell in for their rations. They were then mustered in companies by George, and each man was given a quart measure of millet and a bit of fish, or a measure of rice ; and once a week I gave them tobacco. The Somali and Soudanese received a little better food than the porters. At pocho (ration) time the punishment due the men was meted out. For the first few days many cases of insubordination occurred, but promptness and severity soon taught the men that it was better to avoid giving offence. At 5 P.M. the cry of " Watu wa gonjwa " (sick men) was heard throughout the camp. At this cry all the lame, the halt, and the blind assembled round the tent of Lieutenant von Hohnel, and received treatment for their several ailments. Many had ulcers, and a number of them had pulmonary complaints. We had a wonderful medicine chest, and Lieutenant von Hohnel proved a really good physician. One of the greatest dangers incident to African travel is an outbreak of small-pox in one's caravan. To ob- viate this dreaded disease, we had taken with us a large quantity of vaccine. With this we vaccinated one and all of our men ; but without producing the slightest result. During our stay at Mkonumbi one of our por- ters died of some loathsome skin disease. His friends refused to have anything to do with him, saying that he 30 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap, i had small-pox. Although we Europeans feared such was the case, we were forced, in order to restore con- fidence to our people, to treat this man ourselves ; and, happily, with no ill result. If there is one thing a native African likes more than any other, that thing is sympathy, be its form of expres- sion what it may ; and in order to excite it, he will adopt any means, and go to any length. When our men first caught sight of the medicine chest, and the different-coloured medicines, the list of sick and ailing was enormous. A few doses of the most nauseous drugs, however, soon reduced the list of applicants to reasonable proportions, which saved our stock of medi- cine from premature exhaustion. As the day set for our departure from Mkonumbi drew near, I sent sixty loads of millet and forty-one loads of my trading-goods to Kau, the point at which it had been arranged the canoes should be in readiness. I placed in charge of these Mohamet Aman and four Zanzibari. These men I instructed to convey the canoes to Kinakombe, dista.nt up the Tana some eighty miles. At specified points along the route they were to deposit with the natives stores of food for my caravan ; and upon reaching Kinakombe they were to await my arrival. Reports had reached me that the inhabitants of the Tana district were starving, and would therefore be unable to sell food; for, owing to the repeated raids of the Pumwani and Jongeni people, they had not been permitted to devote the usual time to the culti- vation of crops. To obviate this we sent these canoe- loads of food. CHAP. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN' AFRICA 33 All the goods purchased in London or Vienna had been packed in serviceable and easily opened wooden boxes. The material purchased in Zanzibar was sewn in strong canvas, the average weight of a load being sixty- five pounds. On the march, a porter beside this load carried his rifle, whatever clothing he had for the journey, and rations for from three to six days, as occasion demanded. This brought the total weight of the burden borne by each man to about eighty pounds. To the European it may seem beyond the power of the ordinary man to bear this any length of time ; but these porters, having been from earliest youth accustomed to bear burdens upon their heads and shoulders, were capable of bearing in this manner a much greater weight and for a much longer time than would at first be supposed. The day preceding my departure, the Arab gov- ernor visited my camp. I took advantage of his pres- ence to ask him to give an address to my men, warning them against desertion, and threatening them with direst punishment, should they neglect his warning, or refuse to accept his advice. He made a speech which the porters received with impertinent grins, much to the chagrin of the Arab governor, and upon its conclusion they gave three loud and boisterous hurrahs. Abdul- lah Hamed, the governor, was much irritated, and the return of his accustomed good humour was delayed until after he had quaffed several glasses- of sherbet and uncounted but numerous cups of coffee. At Lamoo I purchased a number of goats and sheep. These, added to my donkeys, horses, and camels, gave the camp a quite pastoral appearance. 34 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. We had brought with us from Europe two long-haired retrievers, and at Aden Lieutenant von Hohnel had bought a Httle, bright-eyed fox-terrier. For the two weeks immediately preceding we had been drilling our men in loading and unloading the camels and donkeys. The camel saddles consisted of two heavy mats ; the one placed next the animal's back being made of long, soft grass, and the other, placed over this and next the load, of coarser text- ure. Over these mats four poles were placed, tied together at the upper end, each of which was six feet in length. The fastening at the upper ends of the poles was about one foot from their tips. The poles were then paired, one pair being taken forward, and securely tied to the rear of the fore-legs, and the other pair being carried back, and tied just in front of the hind legs, thus forming a skeleton pyramid. Upon these sticks the loads were bound. A camel can easily carry from 300 to 400 pounds; so we fastened from four to five loads upon each animal. The donkey saddles consisted of two bags made of untanned ox-hide joined together, and falling like pan- niers on each side of the beast's back. In order to prevent friction and the consequent soreness of the animal, a pad of soft grass was placed between the donkey and the saddle. A breast strap and a breech- ing retained the saddle in proper position ; and equal weights being placed in each pocket of the saddle, and the gait of the donkey being even, equilibrium was maintained, and their positions rarely had to be rearranged while on the march. I placed in charge of the donkeys three men well I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 35 accustomed to the care of such animals. These men had been, from earliest youth, traders of ivory and slaves in Masai Land, and were one and all thor- oughly conversant with the Masai language. We expected to fall in with tribes familiar with this tongue during our journey, and their acquaintance with it was considered an advantage by us when we engaged them. At 5 o'clock, on the morning of September 18, the resounding tomtom broke the stillness of our camp. Soon the air was filled with cries ; some of the porters shouting joyfully to one another, " Safari ! Safari!" (Journey! Journey!); others, "Haya! Haya! Tuta fuata bwana baranai." (Hasten ! Hasten ! We will follow master to the desert.) Even the laziest of the porters seemed glad we were to make a start, for to them a life on the coast without the pleasures of towns, coupled with the hard work incident to the preparation of a cara;van for the march, had been te- dious in the extreme. Others feigned joy; for they but looked forward to the departure from Mkonumbi, and the march through the tall grass and thick coverts, as a means of happy deliverance from an expedition of whose outcome they were in total igno- rance. All the loads and pack-saddles had been laid out in orderly arrangement the night before; so that in little more than an hour all was ready for marching. The governor of Lamoo came to bid me God-speed, but in the hurry and bustle I fear he failed to have the courtesies offered him which his official dignity seemed to demand. He eyed the loads, however, with a longing expression. To him it seemed very ludicrous that any 36 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. one should venture into the interior with what appeared to him to be vast wealth. He had, before this time, questioned me as to the contents of my boxes ; and, despite the fact that I assured him they contained either food or supplies, he exchanged sly glances with his staff, and doubtless was fully convinced that they contained gold and precious stones. Having bade him farewell, I ordered the tomtom to sound again ; and with one long resounding cheer my men seized their loads, and the expedition was under way. The order of marching was as follows : I in the lead with six Soudanese ; then the second headman, Mo- hamadi, and the long single line of porters — some sing- ing cheerily, others stolidly silent, while yet others, even at the start, groaning and shrinking beneath their bur- dens. Lieutenant von Hohnel and George brought up the rear with six Soudanese, while immediately in front of them were placed the camels, donkeys, sheep, and goats. All the animals gave much trouble the first day, and necessitated many delays. Lieutenant von Hohnel had a bad foot and slight dysentery, and so he rode one of the horses. The camels were wonderful animals, fourteen of them carrying fifty loads and doing it well ; and thirty of the donkeys were carefully loaded, each with two full loads. We reached our camping-place at i p.m., and gradu- ally, by threes and fours, the men straggled in ; for it is not until several weeks have elapsed, and the men have become hardened to their labour, that anything resem- bling order can be maintained in a caravan composed of porters. Just before reaching camp we forded a small stream, which the camels had much difificulty in doing. TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA yi It is three days' march from Mkonumbi to the Tana River, and the country passed through is similar in topography to that surrounding Mkonumbi. At a point one day's journey from the river we reached a small Galla village. The Galla here are an insignificant and impov- erished race, far differ- ent from their brethren who inhabit the country lying to the west of Ab- yssinia. It is estimated that throughout the en- tire length of the Tana River there are not more than looo Galla. These people have had a sad history, and their story is as follows : Many years ago, two brothers reigned over a large Galla tribe, located at a point several hun- dred miles to the north of the Tana — presuma- bly the Aroussa. These brothers quarrelled, and concluded they could not inhabit the same country. The younger set out with half the tribe, and, after wandering many years, arrived at the upper regions of the Tana River. At that time they possessed cattle, camels, sheep, and goats. They had with them, so the legend runs, a sacred book, which they called " kitab," Galla Girl 38 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. an Arabic word for book. What this book was, it is, of course, impossible to say; but it is not altogether improbable that it was a Bible ; for, since we know the Abyssinians had accepted Christianity many years ago, it is not unlikely that they had communicated some knowledge of it to the Galla, who inhabited the country adjacent to Abyssinia. Whatever this book was, they guarded it with most jealous care ; but one day, while repelHng an attack of some hostile and marauding natives, the book disap- peared. It was thought by the Galla that it had been eaten by one of their cattle. From the disappearance of the book evil fortune has followed them till now, and to this day they continue search for it, as their talisman. Whenever a cow is killed, they search within its stomach in the hope of finding it. From this habit of searching the intestines of a cow, they have adopted the old Roman custom of foretelling the future by the appearance of the entrails. At present there is not the leas^ indication displayed by these people that they possess Christianity. On the neck of one, however, I saw a white shell, with a cross rudely carved upon it. On September 23, we reached the Tana River at a place called Merifano. At this point the Tana is quite a respectable stream, being about 150 yards in width, and flowing with rapidity between steep clay banks, which are surmounted with tall sycamores, heavily laden with festooning creepers. Here we fell in with the Pokomo. These people we found to be a simple and kindly race, eager to please, and delighted beyond expression when they discovered that our intentions were peaceable. The day we TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 39 reached the Tana one of our camels died, and was greedily eaten by our men, who considered meat in any form a luxury. From our arrival at the Tana dates the real beginning of our journey, for at this point we left behind all thought Our Pokomo Boatmen of even the partial civilization of the coast. It was with more than curiosity that Lieutenant von Hohnel and I gazed at the swirling, muddy stream at our feet, wonder- ing whence it came, and seeking to interpret its loud murmur into words of cheer and welcome to the new- comers upon its banks. CHAPTER II On the morning of the 24th many Pokomo came into camp, bringing small presents, consisting of Indian corn, a few fowls, and a bushel or two of millet. They prayed for my protection against the raiders. I told them I would drive the raiders back if they made an attack dur- ing my stay along the river, and that they could rest assured that in a short time the English would drive these people forever from their neighbourhood. At the time of writing (1895) this result has been happily ac- complished, and peace reigns once more along the banks of the Tana. The Pokomo are undoubtedly of Bantu origin, and their language is very similar to that of the Zanzibari. They clothe themselves in waist-bands of cheap cotton, and the men, one and all, carry long spears, which con- vey a warlike impression, but which are used more as paddles, or as poles for their canoes, than as implements of war. The length of these spears is about eight feet, and the blades are short and trowel-shaped. Our camp was pitched among the ruins of a village recently destroyed by the raiders. As the natives be- came more accustomed to our presence, they swarmed into camp, bringing small parcels of grain for sale. The trading-goods taken by the Pokomo in exchange for their products are rods of soft lead, having a thick- 40 TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 41 ness of one-fourth of an inch and a length of fourteen inches. These are used as ornaments — either as brace- lets or anklets. The cheapest of cotton goods finds a ready demand, and salt, ghee, and spearheads are much asked for. Upon the day of our arrival at the Tana it was ascer- tained that one load of ammunition was missing; and upon calling the roll of the men we found that one of our porters had disappeared. I sent runners back to Witu to report the matter to Captain Rogers, who had charge of the station. I succeeded in getting the load, but heard nothing more of the man. The march from Marefano to Kinekombe was un- eventful ; we journeyed along, at times close to the river bank, and at times prevented from so doing by the thick 42 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. undergrowth, and forced to take a line some distance from the river, where the country was more open. We usually broke camp about 7 a.m., that is, an hour after dawn, and took up the march. As it was our invariable custom to camp near the river, our path at first led through very tall grass and over plantations. While on the march, from my horse's back I could just see the heads of the tall spears carried by the Pokomo guides, which danced and gleamed in the light of the rising sun. Presently we emerged from the grass and were confronted by a tangled and impassable grove, which called for the use of axes and machettes. These came at a call, and soon the forest rang with the re- sounding blows of the axes, the cracking of broken boughs, and the shouts of the workmen. In three- quarters of an hour a path was made ; and where but a short time before all was noise and disorder, the cara- van wended silently and smoothly on its way. There was something imposing in the picture pre- sented by the caravan, when viewed from a short dis- tance. The camels swayed gracefully and majestically onward beneath their high-piled burdens, followed by a winding line of men, made tall and imposing by the massive loads borne upon their heads. Following the men, were the cattle and donkeys, which added solidity to the column; and, bringing up the rear, as a fitting finish to the whole, rode tall Lieutenant von Hohnel on his white pony. As a rule, not a sound was to be heard. Occasionally, however, some porter, bursting with vitality unsuppressed by the eighty-pound burden he bore, car- olled forth some simple lay, such as: "Vily vily, sawa sawa, pocho!" — the burden of the song being of food II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 43 just partaken of, or looked forward to with expectation. Occasionally an obstacle was encountered by the cara- van, and then the even, and I might say almost solemn, movement was at once broken. The camels were forced to kneel, bellowing forth the while their displeas- ure at such an indignity; the donkeys ran hither and thither among the loads thrown down by the men; shouts, curses, and blows from the ever-ready stick filled the air, and the pandemonium continued until the diffi- culty — whether river, hill, thicket, or forest — had been surmounted and passed, when the caravan again swung into its accustomed smooth and noiseless movement toward its goal. At times the guides proved very poorly informed as to the route, and led us through tangled masses of mimosa, aloes, and creeping vines. In such cases the axes were in constant requisition; and in consequence, often for hours at a time, our progress was dismally slow. During the afternoon of this day we encamped on the banks of the river. As it was customary to pitch our tents under tall trees in the cool of the evening, with the knowledge that a certain portion of the distance had been covered, our minds were filled with pleasant thoughts (despite the fact that Lieutenant von Hohnel was suffering greatly from his feet), when turned to the distance yet to be accomplished before reaching Kine- kombe — the point at which we were to find the canoes. One of the canoes contained what we regarded as pre- cious freight, — ninety-six bottles of Tennent's Pilsner beer, — the thought of which acted as a tonic to our spirits, and lent energy to our tired feet while on the march. 44 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT Chaf. As a rule, the Pokomo were friendly and easily con- vinced of our good intentions ; but at times we met with difficulty in procuring guides. Along the banks of the Tana, except at points where the natives had made clearings, the forest growth was really picturesque and imposing. The Pokomo have a slight knowledge of irrigation, and in their little openings in the forest an idea can be had of the productiveness of the soil, and what might be accomplished by cultivation of the soil, if European methods were in vogue. This, however, is only in the immediate neighbourhood of the river; for at distances varying from lOO yards to one mile from the banks of the river, the aspect changes into that of a sandy desert, gleaming here and there with mica. Such trees as are found on this desert are stunted mimosa and aloes. Continued march brought us on September 30 to a point on the river bank opposite the village of Kine- kombe, which is the largest Pokomo village on the Tana. The village contains about 500 conical-shaped huts, covering a space of not less than forty acres. It is surrounded by a strong hedge on the landward sides, as a protection from attacking parties; while the steep clay banks of the river afford protection on the water side. This is the only town of the Pokomo which is able to repel the attacks of the raiding tribes; in consequence, cultivation of the surrounding planta- tions is carried on extensively, and food is cheap and plentiful. Here I found Mohamet Aman with my river column, which had arrived in safety a few days before. Think- ing we would follow the right bank, he had built a nice TRAVELS TN EASTERN AFRICA 45 camp. I crossed to the camp and at once opened a bottle of beer. What nectar it seemed ! Seven hours in an arid desert turns water into wine, and beer into a drink for the gods. The Pokomo employed in my canoes, after greeting me pleasantly upon my arrival, expressed an ardent desire to return to the coast. A few words and a small present changed their purpose, and they were eager with protestations of devotion, arid expressed a willingness to follow me to the ends of the earth. Village of Kinekombe The chief of the village was named Kula ; he brought me a present of unshelled rice and a lot of Indian corn. Up to this point the route had been a good one, as regards supplies. The deposits of millet left by my canoes at points along the route proved unnecessary, for the natives even in the poorest districts had sufficient to supply the wants of my people. With modern means of agriculture and intelligent irrigation, the banks of the Tana should yield abundant rice and corn. This is by far the richest country I had yet seen. At Kinekombe I remained several days, for the pur- pose of allowing the backs of the donkeys, which had 46 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT chap. become sore, to heal ; and to give the camels a much- needed rest. On the road to Kinekombe I had four deserters, only one of whom I succeeded in capturing with his load. On the day after my arrival there some of my men took their rifles and went to the village ; whereupon, all the natives fled. It was only after pro- longed effort that I was able to reassure them and bring them back. I placed one of my headmen on duty to prevent outrage, and limited the number of my men permitted in the village at one time to thirty. One day during my stay at this place the Soudanese appeared in front of my tent, and expressed themselves as dissatisfied with everything connected with the expe- dition. They asserted, among other things, that their food was insufficient and of poor quality. As these men had before boasted to me of the fact, that during the campaigns of the Mahdi they had for weeks lived upon grass, I gave little heed to their complaint; but in- formed them that if they were dissatisfied with the quantity of food, the only change possible would be a reduction in it. They, thereupon, wished to depose the Balook Bashi. As they had sworn to obey this man, and as I had not yet pitched upon one of their num- ber suitable to succeed him, I told them they must keep their oath. They then returned sullenly to their quarters. Lieutenant von Hohnel's feet became worse, instead of better, so that we decided it would be advisable for him to travel, at least a portion of the distance up the i-iver, in a canoe ; and on October 2, he, in charge of the river column, left Kinekombe. As soon as the canoes dis- appeared around a bend in the river, I began to feel 11 TRA VELS IJV EASTERN AFRICA ^y badly and took to bed. In the afternoon fever set in, and my temperature rose to 103. I took phenacetine, and it fell to loi. At 9 p.m. my temperature again rose, and reached 104; phenacetine and castor oil brought it down to loi, and oft- repeated doses of quinine kept it there. On the following day I attempted to resume my jour- ney, but found myself too weak (I suffered from slight dysentery) ; so that I spent the day in bed. <''< ■?■,-■. "