1 ,;?r^a^^^ ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco. 1912. 3 1924 089 480 218 i;i)e t;i)anfe«gtt)tng iWenu Oyster Soup Celery Olives Boiled Fish, Egg Sauce Boiled Potatoes Roast Turkey Giblet Gravy Mashed Turnip Browned Sweet Potatoes Cranberry Jelly Lettuce, French Dressing ' Cheese Straws Salted Almonds Lemon, Apple, Pumpkin, Mince and Cream Pie Ice Cream Ginger Wafers CofFee Fruit Nuts Bonbons Raisins Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924089480218 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL RBCIPCS AND PROCESSBS By SIDNEY MORSE THE SUCCESS T>» E.TV -y OH.K. COPYRIGHT, igoS By S. L. Morsb. COPYRIGHT, igog By The Success Co, TO THE THOUSANDS OF PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPERS, READERS OF SUCCESS MAGAZINE, AND OTHERS, WHOSE DISCOVERIES ARE EMBODIED IN THIS VOLUME ONE CENT A WORD We will pay for new household discoveries, including all practical recipes and processes, not contained in this volume, one cent a word for all we can use in Success Magazine or in future editions of Household Discoveries. Address the author, care of the Success Company, Success Magazine Building, New York. Corrections of errors or misstatements, utilized by us, will be paid for at the same rate. If you have saved money or been otherwise benefited by using one of the within recipes, write the author and say so. And contribute for the help of others any discoveries that you may have made in your own experience. The Success Company. NOTICE Household Discoveries is not offered for sale through the book stores, and can oply be obtained of our regular authorized solicitors or from the publishers direct. Anyone desiring a copy may address the publishers and full information will be given by mail, or one of our representatives will be asked to call. We are always in want of good canvassing agents. The price of Household Discoveries and Success Magazine to the public is so low that it is a ready seller, and we will pay the jight men a regular salary. Hence, the work is both pleasant and profitable. Experienced agents and those who would like to try their ability as salesmen should address the pub- lishers for full information. The Success Company, Success Magazine Building, New York City. PREFACE The main object of this book is economy. If rightly used, it will save a great deal of money in every household. It will also save time and labor, which are the equivalent of money. The publishers have long felt that there is a great need for a new book of this sort upon the market. To be sure, there are a number of standard dictionaries and encyclopedias of applied science. But these cost from five to ten dollars and upward. And they contain a great deal of information about commercial processes not suitable to household use. There are also a num- ber of popular books of recipes published. But most of these are old books. Others are made up scrapbook fashion by the republication of old material without proper editorial supervision. In the course of the preparation of this volume, our atten- tion was necessarily called to the fact that a number of so-called " new " books republish, word for word, recipes and processes that have been formerly published in six or eight other books, some of which appeared before the Civil War. Recent science has introduced many new substances and processes then unknown. All these have been availed of in the present volume. . Moreover, the old-fashioned popular book of recipes leaves something to be desired in its manner as well as its matter. The enormous sale and reputation of a number of old books that contain some recipes of great practical value, but accompanied by comment which no sane person can possibly read without a sense of humor or a feeling of disgust, is the strongest possible evi- dence of the value of this kind of information. We believe that what has made these old books popular is their practical part and not their silly part. We believe that the public will approve a volume that sets forth what to do, how to do, and the reasons why, in simple, direct, and dignified language, and saves space for additional recipes and other information by omitting " horse- play " and all unnecessary remarks and commentaries. This is a modem book. All who have owned or used one 22 PREFACE of the old-time books of recipes knxiw that hardly a week passes that they do not find occasion to refer to it. They wiU, we be- lieve, appreciate the importance of having the latest and best information along these lines obtainable. Others, who have no good collection of this sort, wiU appreciate without argument the value of purchasing a new book rather than an old one. Thus we feel that there is a universal necessity for Househoi,d Discoveries, and we have therefore put the price so low as to bring it within the reach of every family, in the confident ex- pectation of distributing at least a million copies throughout the continent of North America. The Publishees. INTRODUCTION Theee are a number of other books of recipes, but the pres- ent volume is unique in three ways: what it contains, what it omits, and the way it is arranged. WHAT THE BOOK CONTAINS As to the first of these three features, the title Household Discoveries is suggestive. We all have our own ways of doing things. We learn to do by doing. But we are all the time try- ing new ways, to save time, to save money, and to do things better. Every now and then, through a happy combination of circumstances, we make a " Discovery." We hit upon a better way than we have known before. Nothing pleases us more than to tell our friends about it. They in turn like to tell us ways they have discovered to do this or that. Women thus exchange household recipes. Men swap ideas on carpentering, painting, tinkering, and odd jobs generally. The value of these homely ideas thus passing throughout the country, from lip to lip, from friend to friend, and from neighbor to neighbor, is enormous. Some persons are able to store up large numbers of such practi- cal ideas in memory. Others keep notebooks or scrapbooks in which to record them. But the stock of most persons is limited to a few score or a few hundreds, whereas others, equally good, are in existence to the number of many thousands. The present volume is made up of practical ideas of this character. More than twenty-five thousand persons contributed to Success Magazine from one to half a dozen of their own tried " Discoveries." All were practical housekeepers. Their ideas were the direct product of their experience. They were proud of them and they had reason to be. The writer appre- ciated to the full the value of this material and obtained per- mission to edit it and prepare it for the press. Valuable as are the " Discoveries " of practical housekeepers in themselves, they have, in their suggestiveness, an added value. They show what kind of information housekeepers need and want. But they also reveal the fact that many women of great practical experience lack scientific knowledge. It has therefore been necessary to supplement this wealth of ideas derived from 24 INTEODUCTION experience. And this has been done in two ways: First, the discoveries contributed by housekeepers have been carefully checked against the best scientific authorities, errors have been corrected, impractical ideas discarded. Second, the whole has been augmented by the addition of the most approved practical and scientific formula;. As a result, it turned out to be neces- sary to rewrite the entire volume. " Discoveries " are usually how to do this or that. But many persons also want to know why. And all can work better if they understand the nature and properties of the various substances. These are of several sorts. In removing stains and spots, for instance, what to do depends upon the kind of fabric, whether animal or vegetable fiber; its condition, whether white or colored, bleached or unbleached; the nature of the staining substance; and the nature of the cleanser to be employed. Hence, the na- ture and the properties of the particular kinds of substances in common household use are carefully stated. Distinctions are made, and closely adhered to, between the treatment of different classes of substances, as animal versus vegetable fibers and the like. Poisons, explosives, and other dangerous substances are recom- mended only with the proper cautions, and aU possible safeguards have been thrown about the use, by ordinary persons, of the various recipes recommended. WHAT THE BOOK OMITS The second feature that makes this book unique is what it omits. The writer has closely examined about fifty thousand recipes contributed by housekeepers, and more than fifty pub- lished books of recipes (embracing all that have appeared in the English language in the past fifty or sixty years) or a total (including duplicates) of nearly one hundred thousand recipes. This book contains the cream of them all. It is like apple butter boiled down from cider. It is sound wheat winnowed free from chaff. It was not necessary to leave out any good recipes that were adapted to household use. They are all here. Nothing had to be left out but waste words, duplicates (the same thing said in another way), gush, and braggadocio. A favorite way of padding books of recipes has been to oc- cupy more space boasting about the wonders the recipes will do than it takes to give the recipe and the directions. Nearly half of one of the most celebrated books of recipes is thus taken up with " Remarks " that are of no possible use to any- body. If the mass of trivialities contained in some of the most widely known books of recipes now in use could be struck out INTRODUCTION 25 and the contents " boiled down " or " churned " or " winnowed " in a thorough manner, it would surprise everyone to find how little space the recipes themselves take up.- And a boiled-down book is much more valuable. The recipes are still the same and they are a great deal more convenient. By thus avoiding unnecessary words, all the best recipes for house- hold purposes extant have been combined into one volume. They are given on their merits in a plain, direct, and simple way. And full information is given in regard to the nature and properties of the various substances. Thus anyone can select the bfest recipe for a given use, and he will discover its virtues for himself with- out paying extra to read about them beforehand. " The proof of ' the pudding is in the eating thereof." THE WAY IN WHICH THE CONTENTS AEE AURANGED The third feature in which this book is unique is the wUy it is arranged. The contents are pictorial. Each chapter is a picture, or rather a series of moving pictures, from daily life. If a moving-picture machine could follow a good housekeeper around from morning until night, seven days in the week and fifty-two weeks in the year, and then throw the series of pictures thus taken upon a screen, the result would be similar to the con- tents of this volume. The book goes right with the housekeeper when furnishing and decorating all parts of the house, and makes a series of pictures that suggest what to do. It gives helpful pictures of the best method of heating, lighting, water supply, and refrigeration. It goes right through the day's work and makes pictures of the different processes, of the kindling and care of fires, dishwashing, cleaning lamps, chamber work, and preparations for the night. It goes through the week's work and makes a picture of get- ting ready for wash day by removing spots and stains from the linen and by dry cleaning all sorts of fabrics ; of the different kinds of soap and how to make them; of wash day, ironing day, mending, sweeping and cleaning days, and all of their different processes. It goes through the year's work also, the spring and fall house cleaning; the fight against moths, cockroaches, ants, fieas, mosquitoes, flies, rats and mice, and other household pests ; and even takes up packing to travel or to move away. And on wash day, for example, just when the picture is com- plete — including the piles of soiled garments, the utensils of the laundry, and the various soaps and other cleansing mixtures — all of the recipes are given that can be found in any published 26 INTRODUCTION book of good repute and many " Discoveries " that have never been published elsewhere. Thus, a young bride — or an experi- enced housekeeper, too, for that matter — can take up the book the night before wash day and read over exactly the information she will need to put. in practice on the morrow. Or the book can be kept at hand in the laundry closet and picked up with wet hands if need be. The cover (in one style of binding) is made of oilcloth and it will not be damaged in the least. What the housekeeper wants to know about any kind of housework can be found at the very time she wants it, and all in one place. Con- trast with this books that are arranged in a b c order like an encyclopedia, and you will see why Household Discoveries is, in arrangement, the most practical and convenient book of recipes ever published. Take, for instance, the family workroom. It is a picture of what is needed to make a man handy about the house. Every- thing is described in such a simple way that anyone can fix up such a workroom and always liave ait hand paste, mucilage, glue, and cement for all kinds of uses ; paints and varnishes ; soldering tool and solder and other forms of simple metal work ;' oils and lubricators ; and all sorts of similar contrivances. Every recipe and process is described in the simplest lajiguage. And this part of the book alone is worth, to the man of the house, many times the cost of the entire volume. It will save the family the price of the book several times over every year that it is in the house. Upward of one hundred thousand recipes include a great many different ways of doing the same things. And by omitting all waste words and boiling down everything to the last degree it has been possible to include more of these ways than any one person would be likely to want. It has seemed best, however, to include them all. Circumstances differ. And many men are of many minds. From the variety of the recipes given, it is be- lieved that any housekeeper or' practical man can, in most cases, make up a recipe for a given purpose from what is at hand in the house or at any rate what can easily be had in the neigh- borhood. And thus the book is adapted to all parts of the coim- try, and to the use of every individual and family in the land. The Authob,. PAQK CONTENTS CHAPTER I HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING House Punishing — ^Furniture — Wall Coverings — Floor Cov- erings — Curtains, Shades, and Draperies — Miscellaneous Objects — ^Living Rooms — Sleeping Rooms — Library — -Dining Room — ^Kitchen, Storeroom, and Pantry — Small Economies . 33 CHAPTER II HEATING, LIGHTING, AND REFRIGERATION Kinds op Fuel — Heating Systems — Chimneys and Flues — ^Fire Extinguishers and Fire Escapes — ^Fireprooping and Water- PHOOPING ^ArTTPICIAL ILLUMINATION CoAL GaS, GaSOLINE Gas, and Acetylene — ^Kerosene Oil — Candles and Candle Making — Industrial Alcohol — Water Supply — ^Ice and Re- frigeration . ... 81 CHAPTER III THE DAY'S ROUTINE Kindling and Care op Fires — Cleaning and Polishing Stoves — Dishwashing — Care op Kitchen Wares — Care op Glass- ware AND Cut Glass — Steel Knives and Forks — Care of Silverware — Care op Sinks and Disposal of Garbage — Chamber Work — -Care op Lamps — ^Preparations fob the Night . . . . 123 CHAPTER IV PREPARATIONS FOR WASH DAY Solvents for Spots and Stains — Kinds of Spots and Stains — Stains on White Linen or Cotton — To Remove Stains from Vegetable Fibers — ^To Remove Stains from Animal Fibers — To Clean Colored Goods — To Dry-clean Men's Garments — ^To Dry-clean Women's Garments — Cleaning and Care OP Gloves — ^To Clean Feathers, Furs, and Straw — Bleach- ing Vegetable and Animal Fibers 154 27 28 CONTENTS CHAPTER V SOAP AND SOAP MAKING PAOB Utensils and Materials for Soap Making — Soft Soap — ^ELaed Soap — Soda Soaps — Rosin Soap — Special Soaps 186 CHAPTER VI WASH DAY The LAtiNDRT — Laundry Utensils — ^Nature or the Process — Water for the Latjndry — Labor-saving Methods, Washing Fluids, etc. — Colored Goods — Laces and Lace Curtains — • Silks and Satin — Woolens, Worsteds, and Flanneis — ^Dry- ing Clothes . . 200 CHAPTER VII mONlNG DAY Bluing and Sprinkling — Starch and Starching — Care of Iron- ing Utensils — Ironing — ^To Do Up Silks, Ribbons, and Woolens — ^To Do Up Laces and Curtains — ^To Mark and Store Linen .... 222 CHAPTER VIII SEWING AND MENDING DAY The Sewing Room — ^Use and Care of Sewing Machine — Sewing- room Conveniences — Mending — ^Renovating — Making Over — Fancy Work 234 CHAPTER IX SWEEPING DAY Utensils for Sweeping — ^Dust and Dusting — Hard-wood Floors — Rugs — Matting — Oilcloth and Linoleum .... 250 CHAPTER X HOUSE CLEANING Cleaning the Cellar — Cleaning the Attic and Closets — Cleaning the Chambers — To Clean Floor Coverings — Cleaning and Repinishing Wood Floors — Cleaning Paint — Whitewashing — ^Paper Hanging — Care of Walls — ^Win- CONTENTS 29 PAGE Dows, Doors, etc. — Cleaning and Care of Furniture — Cleaning Picture Frames— Cleaning Bric-a-brac and Miscellaneous Objects — ^To Clean Marble, Brick, and Stone — Cleaning Kitchen Stoves and Other Metals — Packing 260 CHAPTER XI HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS The Clothes Moth — Carpet Beetle or "Buffalo Moth" — The House Centipede — ^The Common Cockroach or Cro- ton Bug — ^Thb Bedbug — ^The House Flea — -Rats and Mice — Black and Red Ants — ^The White Ant — ^The Common House Fly — ^The Mosquito — Orchard, Farm, and Garden Pests 304i CHAPTER Xn THE FAMILY WORKROOM Pakt One — ^Adhesives Adhesives — Pastes — Mucilage — Glue — Cement — Special Ad- hesives . . 332 CHAPTER XIII THE FAMILY WORKROOM Part Two — Paints and Varnishes Uses of Paint — Specifications for Painting — Care of Paints AND Brushes — Special Kinds of Paint — Varnishing — Fixed- oil Varnishes— Spirit or Lac Varnishes — -Volatile-oil Varnishes — Special Varnishes — Sealing Wax — Oils, Lu- bricators, etc. — Furniture Polish 352 CHAPTER XIV THE FAMILY WORKROOM . Past Three — Metal Work The Metals and Their Properties — Iron and Steel — Copper AND Its Alloys, Brass, Bronze, etc.— Lead and Its Alloys — ^Tin and Its Alloys, Solder, etc. — Zinc and Its Alloys — ^Nickel and Its Alloys — Aluminum and Its Alloys — An- timony AND Its Alloys — Mercury and Its Amalgams — -Coat- ing Metals with Other Metals by Electricity and Other- wise — Electroplating and Electrotyping — -Lacquer for Metals — ^Precious Metals — Gold and Silver .... 383 30 CONTENTS CHAPTER XV THE FAMILY WORKROOM Part Focb — ^Leather, Ink, and Miscellaneous FAOB Tanning Leather — Coloring and Care of Leather — Boots AND Shoes — Overshoes — Waterproofing Leather— Black- ing Leather — Writing Ink — Marking Inks — Colored Inks — Special Inks — Care of Ink — Care of Jewelry — Glass AND Ivory — Gypsum, Alabaster, etc 415 CHAPTER XVI THE TOILET AND BATH The Skin— Baths and Bathing — Kinds of Baths — The Toilet — Toilet Soaps — Medicated Soap — The Hands — Manicuring. 438 CHAPTER XVII TOILET PREPARATIONS Toilet Preparations — Simple Home Preparations — Almond Milk Cream and Paste — Cold Cream — Aromatic Vinegar — Toilet Powders — Rouge — ^Essences and Perfumes . . 458 CHAPTER XVIII HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN Dandruff and Shampooing — Hair Washes — Hair Tonics — Hair Oils — Hair Dyes — Other Hair Topics — ^The Beard, Mus- tache, AND Shaving — ^Toilet Preparations for Men . . 483 CHAPTER XIX THE TEETH The Teeth — Dentifrices — ^The Breath — Toothache — ^Tooth- ache Remedies 502 CHAPTER XX CANDIES AND CANDY MAKING Kinds of Candies — Boiling Sirup for Candy — ^The Seven Degrees — Cream or Fondant — Cream Candies — Fruit and Nut Creams— Bonbons — ^Taffy and Molasses Candy for CONTENTS 31 PAGE Candt Puus — Sirup Candies — Pastim oh Candy Drops — Candied Fruits, Fruit and Nut Candies — ^Caramels — Kisses and Marshmaijxjws — ^Nougats — Popcorn Candy — Lozenges — Cough Candies — ^To Color and Flavor Candy — ^IcES AND Icing — Honey and Beeswax 515 CHAPTER XXI CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT Canned Goods for Market — Utensils and Materials — Process op Canning and Preserving — Pbesekves and Preserving — Old-Fashioned Recipes — Miscellaneous Rules and Sug- gestions 547 CHAPTER XXII VINEGAR. PICKLES. AND PICKLING Special Vinegars — Pickles and Pickling — Mixed Pickles — Pickled Vegetables. Nuts, and Fruits 561 CHAPTER XXIII PRESERVATION OF MEAT AND VEGETABLES Fermentation — ^Fresh Meat and Fish — Salting and Pickling Meat — Cubing Hams, Tongues, and Bacon — Making and Keeping Sausage — Preservation of Cooked Meat — ^Trying Out and Storing Lard — ^Preserving, Testing, and Packing Eggs — Storing and Preserving Vegetables, Fruit, Nuts, and Herbs . 587 CHAPTER XXIV WEIGHTS AND MEASURES Weights and Measures — Linear or Long Measure — Square or Superficial Measure — Surveyors' and Land Measure — Cubic or Capacity Measure — -Wood, Lumber and Board Measure — Measurement op Stone and Brick — Dry and Liquid Measure — Measures op Weight — Cooks' Table op Proportions — Circular Measure — Longitude and Time — Measures op Value — United States Money — ^English or Sterling Money — Metric System of Weights and Measures. 611 32 CONTENTS CHAPTER XXV HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY Geohge J. Fisher, M.D. PAGE General Hints in Time or Accident — ^Fihst Aid in Time op Injubt — Poisons and their Antidotes — ^Fainting — How to Treat A Bruise or Sprain — Treatment of Special Parts — Cuts AND Scratches — Poisoned Wounds — ^Poison Ivy and Poison Oak — Burns — Bleeding — Dislocations — Fractures — Drowning — Prone Pressure Method 645 CHAPTER XXVI WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO DO Isabel Gordon Curtis What an Invalid Mat Eat — ^What an Invalid Mat Drink — Proven "Home Remedies" — Hot Weather Care of Infants AND Young Children . 660 Index . . 677 CHAPTER I HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING HOUSE FURNISHING— FURNITURE— WALL COVERINGS— FLOOR COVERINGS— CURTAINS, SHADES, AND DRAPERIES-MISCEL- LANEOUS OBJECTS— LIVING ROOMS-SLEEPING ROOMS— LI- BRARY— DINING ROOM— KITCHEN, STOREROOM, AND PANTRY —SMALL ECONOMIES HOUSE FTTENISHING The subject of house furnishing is more important than is often realized. It has a moral and a social as well as an economic side. The relation is very close between the character, or at least the reputation, of men and their surroundings. Everyone is free to change his surroundings. Hence the furniture and the decorations of a house, and the condition of the house and grounds, are properly con- sidered an index to the character of its occupants. Furniture, decorations, and other surroundings that are disorderly or in bad taste tend to keep refined and thoughtful people away from such homes. They have an even worse ef- fect on the character of the inmates. Those who live in such circumstances become used to them, and no longer notice their badness. But the worst effect is upon the impressionable minds of growing children. Young children naturally take their own homes as models. What they see in childhood tends to fix their standards for life. Hence neat, tasteful, and orderly homes, but not necessarily expensive in their appointments, have a very important educational influence. The problem of furnishing and decorating comes up in two ways: originally, as in the formation of a new home, in the furnishing of addi- tional rooms, or in moving into a new and larger dwelling; or, secondarily, in refurnishing from time to time, and purchasing additions to the family stock, usually in' connection with the semiannual housecleaning. All of these occasions give rise to many problems that require good judgment. But these can usually be referred to a few simple rules that are not difficult to imderstand or to apply. Styles and fashions in these matters change more slowly than some other fashions, as in dress; but they do change, and while it is proper and desirable that the furnishings in the "Simplicity, Harmony, and Durability." home should be to some extent orig- inal and express the individuality of its owners, it is natural and conven- ient for everyone to conform in a general way to the tendencies ,of the times in which he lives. Hence it is important to know in what direction the current of thought is moving, so as to keep in advance or abreast of it, rather than to lag behind. Simplicity, harmony, and durability 33 34 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES are the keynotes of the modem tend- ency. The general intention seems to be to avoid everything that is super- fluous, everything that has a tendency to catch and hold dust or dirt, or to add to the discomforts and dangers of dust and dirt by quickly wearing out. Hence carpets are being large- ly replaced by hard-wood floors and rugs; wooden bedsteads, by beds of iron or brass; stuffed and upholstered furniture, by articles of plain wood or wood and leather. Wall papers are often discarded for walls tinted or calcimined with washable materials. " Bric-a-brac," flounces, valances, and all other superfluous articles are much less fashionable than formerly. Good and Bad Taste. — ^The same trend can be seen in decoration. Wall papers in solid colors, and hard-wood floors or solid-colored floor coverings, with rugs of Oriental patterns, are preferred to the large figured carpets, rugs, and wall papers with their so- called " cheerful " or bright and con- trasted colors. Stuffed plush, and other upholstered articles of furniture "Much Less Purchased than Formerly. in bright colors, or large figured de- signs, are being much less purchased than formerly. All this is a result of the Arts- and-Crafts movement originating in England with WiUlam Morris, invent- or of the Morris chair. A number of popular magazines are devoted to these and kindred subjects, which oc- cupy a good deal of space in general periodicals of all classes. Formerly there was little oppor- tunity for persons in small towns and remote rural districts either to be- come familiar with the right stand- ards or to obtain the more approved styles of furniture. But the general prosperity of recent years has re- sulted in many country homes being tastefully and elegantly furnished. The possibility of buying desirable styles on the mail-order plan has forced local dealers to keep better and more up-to-date stocks of all house- hold articles. Moreover, the great demand for simplicity of design has reduced the cost. There is now a good selection of household furniture in the less expensive grades upon the same models as the most costly and tasteful articles. FUEinTTJEE Furniture should be chosen for sim- plicity and durability. The most simple designs are usually the most artistic, and the most durable arti- cles are likely to be the most san- itary. Quiet and subdued colors and dull finishes are the most restful and generally satisfactory, although the high polish of such furniture as ma- hogany is preferred by many people. To produce a soothing and restful ef- fect all the colors in a given room should be in harmony. The artistic quality that makes an article of fur- niture an object of beauty as well as of use should be sought in the lines of the design itself, rather than in additions by way of decoration. Cheap furniture stamped with scrolls and other designs in imitation of carving or the torturing of the natural lines of a piece of furniture into various fanciful knobs, curves, and scrolls, sometimes facetiously called " ginger- bread," have little to recommend them. The modern Craftsman and Mission styles of furniture indicate a change in the right direction. Not all of these designs are of equal value; HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING 35, but for the most part they are simple, durable, and derive their beauty from their appropriateness and the natural lines on which they are constructed. Dainty white and gold spider-legged "Modem Craftsman^and Mission furniture has no place except in draw- ing-rooms of wealth and extreme con- ventionality. Antique Furniture. — The craze for second-hand or antique furniture is, on the whole, rather absurd. Very few persons indeed are able to distin- guish a real antique from an imita- tion. Dealers in these goods may not only willfully deceive, but are often deceived themselves by persons who have so-called antiques, manufactured in America, shipped abroad and re- shipped to this country. The wood is not infrequently given the appearance of age by being buried in the ground, eaten with acids, or riddled vrith fine shot in imitation of worm holes. Even the cloth or leather in which the goods are upholstered may be given the effect of wear by mechan- ical means, and the whole may be placed on the market by fraud in such a way as to suggest that the articles are heirlooms. Modern furniture, made on the same models, can be obtained at much low- er prices, and is much more satisfac- tory than these supposed antiques. But, as a rule, antique pieces are not desirable unless a room can be fur- nished with them and can have all its appointments in harmony with the antique style. Furnishing. — William Morris says: "Have nothing in your home that. you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful." It is a, good rule in furnishing a new home to buy first only what is absolutely necessary, and not to buy an article that is not im- mediately required because it is beau- tiful or cheap, or for any other rea- son. After living for a while with only the few articles that are abso- lutely necessary, it will be easier to see just wha,t is required that will harmonize with the articles already purchased and their surroundings and help to make a satisfactory whole. Moreover, the longer one lives with- out unnecessary furnishings the more he is likely to appreciate the wisdom of simplicity. Every new article pur- chased is a new care, and a, few ob- jects of good quality in a room give a much more elegant effect than a large number of less desirable pieces. Hence there is no reason why any family, whether in the city or the country, cannot furnish their home in a thoroughly modern way that will always be in good taste and will be in good style for many years to come. Refurnishing. — It would, of course, very rarely happen that a family could afford or would wish to discard serv- iceable articles because they are not in good style or good taste according to present fashion. But as such arti- cles wear out and have to be replaced, or as additions are made from time to time, it is quite possible to refurnish in such a way that in comparatively few years the entire contents of the home will be modernized. Hence the importance of some knowledge of the subjects of harmony and color, sim- plicity, design, and durability in ma- terial and in modes. Color Schemes. — The most pleasing effects in decoration are obtained by treating each room or group of con- nected rooms in such a. way as to get HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES a harmonious general effect or color scheme. And the color scheme must, of course, be chosen with reference to the purpose for which the room is intended, its shape and size, and the amount of sunlight it receives. Rooms can be so treated as to seem higher or broader than they are, the amount of light can be increased or subdued, and each room can be given a distinct tone and individuality appropriate to the uses to which it is put. This way of decorating does not necessarily cost any more than any other. It merely requires some knowledge and skUl that can easily be acquired. The basis of the color scheme is, of course, in the background provided by the wall and floor coverings and the woodwork. But all the furnishings should be selected so as to form, with the background, a harmonious whole. Hence the subj ect naturally divides it- self into the separate topics of wood- work, wall coverings, floor coverings, and furniture. And the last topic can be best taken up in connection with each of the different rooms, as the liv- ing room, dining room, bedrooms, etc. Color and Light. — Some colors re- flect a large part of the light that falls upon them; others absorb it. The various shades of green are the great- est thieves of light. A dark-green wall will absorb about 85 per cent of the light; a dark brown perhaps 70 per cent; a light green, SO per cent; an orange or yellow, 25 or 30 per cent; light blue, 35 per cent; and soft, deli- cate tints about 10 per cent. But of course these figures are only approxi- mate. Pure white absorbs about 15 per cent of the light thrown upon it. Hence suitable color schemes for rooms facing south that need toning down are greens or the dull shades of blue, ^cru, or tan. For rooms facing west the lighter shades of green, with rose, terra cotta, or white, are appropriate. White enamel furniture with brass trimmings is suitable for such apartments. North and east rooms require warm tones of yellow, with which yellow oak furniture harmonizes, or warm shades of red, which harmonizes with Mission oak. Most men would agree to Eugene Field's remark that " almost any color suited him, so long as it was red." Hence red is a suitable color for the furnishing of a man's room or den. For the dining room, provided it is a bright, sunny room, a suitable color is blue or grayish blue, harmonizing with the tones of delft china. Or, if the dining room is less well lighted, a rich warm tone of yellow gives a sun- ny atmosphere to the room. But avoid yellow of a greenish or lemon cast. For the hall, a suitable color is green. And for the living room, green or a warm shade of russet brown, to harmonize with the green of the haU. Bedrooms should be preferably in light and delicate colors. WALL COVEBIirOS The materials commonly used for wall coverings are chiefly of three sorts, paper, cloth, and paint, or washes applied direct to the waUs. The last method is much more gen- erally used than formerly. Wall pa- pers are cheaper but less durable than cloth. Suitable tints and stains in water colors and calcimine are cheaper than either, and also more durable. Wall Papers. — Perhaps the com- monest wall coverings are the wall papers of various grades, from the ordinary wood-pulp paper costing but a few cents a roll, to the highest grades of cartridge, ingrain, or duplex papers, imitations of leather, and other specialties. Wall papers are very cheap, and anyone can readily learn how to hang them. Hence there is no reason why rooms should not be repapered as often as is necessary to keep them fresh and clean. Wall papers are especially suitable to walls that are rough or uneven, and to walls of houses that are not suffi- ciently weU built. By suitable treat- ment paper can be hung on almost any wall, and it assists in keeping the rooms tight and warm. HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING sr Colors and Patterns. — The plain cartridge, ingrain, or duplex papers in solid colors are the most approved and among the most satisfactory wall pa- pers, especially for living rooms in general use. The absence of any pat- tern or design brings out in full relief the pictures upon the walls and other ornaments, and helps to give a quiet air of luxury to the apartment. But these are somewhat more expensive than ordinary waU papers, and require a smoother wall surface and better care in hanging. The edges must be trimmed on both sides and "butted," or brought together side by side, tight enough not to show the wall between them, instead of being overlapped, as with ordinary papers. Otherwise the thickness of the paper would make a ridge which, on account of the solid color, would be plainly visible. This requires some skiU, but with a, little practice can be done by anyone. The edge should be trimmed with a sharp knife by means of a straightedge rather than with shears. Next to the ingrain papers, the two- toned or double-toned papers, having a subdued pattern in another shade or tint of the same color as the ground- work, are preferred for the living room. Good taste demands the selection of a paper having a comparatively small and simple design, and without large figures or striking and glaring con- trasts of color. Large-figured papers deprive pictures and other ornaments of all artistic effect and make the wall, which should be merely a background, stand out obtrusively. How to Choose Wall Paper. — The effect of wall papers cannot be weU judged from small samples. Hence when possible choose from the stock itself and have two or three widths unrolled side by side to get the gen- eral effect. Remember that vertical stripes make a room seem higher than it is, that large figures and dark col- ors make It seem smaller, and that a simple design in natural outlines, as a landscape or flowers and foliage, has perspective and tends to give an effect of greater width. Hence it may be suitable for halls or narrow apart- ments. Figured papers in dainty patterns, as poppies, roses, or other natural blossoms, are more suitable for bed- rooms than for living rooms. They can be selected to suit almost any kind of color scheme. Solid colors seem to make the walls retire; hence they give the effect of broadening and enlarging the apartment. This is especially true of the lighter shades. Mother Goose and other figured papers in suitable designs may be had for children's rooms and nurseries, imitation leather for dining rooms and halls, and water- proof oilcloth papers for bathrooms, kitchens, etc. Ceilings. — ^Various desirable effects may be produced in wall coverings by the treatment of the ceiling. Low rooms may be given an effect of great- er height by the use of a two-toned paper in narrow, vertical stripes, car- ried clear to the ceiling without a " Veriical Stripes Carried Clear to the Ceiling." border, and by fastening the picture molding as close to the celling as it will go. On the other hand, rooms that are too narrow in proportion to other dimensions may be given a bet- ter effect by lowering the picture molding one to two feet or more and papering up to the molding, but not above, the upper part (fi the wall be- ing whitewashed or calcimined in the same materials as the ceiling. Ceilings that have rough or crooked 38 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES places which cannot be repaired may be hung with a paper of the same quality as the walls, but usually of a lighter tint. The border may be put on around the edge of the ceiling in- stead of aroimd the top of the wall, thus giving the room the effect of greater height. Or ceilings may be whitewashed or calcimined, or tinted with water col- ors, with or without stenciled borders or frescoes. Dadoes. — The effect of any room may be improved by a chair rail around the walls three feet from the floor. Suit- able material can be procured from dealers in picture moldings. This will, of course, be painted the same color as the woodwork. On the wall below hang cotton or linen cloth previously painted with boiled linseed oil and well dried, or cheap ingrain paper, and when dry paint this wall covering the same color as the woodwork. Or this dado may be developed with picture molding, the corners being mitered the same as picture frames. With the aid of a homemade miter- box anyone who is handy with tools can do this work. Test for Wall Paper. — To test green wall paper for the presence of arsenic in dangerous quantities dip a sample in aqua ammonia. If arsenic is pres- ent, the paper will turn from green to blue. Or light a piece of the paper with a match, and when burning briskly blow it out. The presence of arsenic may be detected by an odor similar to that of garlic. Wall Coverings — Cloth. — ^Various grades of prepared cloth wall cover- ings are obtainable, as silk, linen, and burlap. These are more expensive than paper, and are objected to by some on the ground that they catch dust and are unsanitary, unless regu- larly swept and dusted every day. But these materials when of good quality are very durable, and furnish perhaps the most artistic of all backgrounds for pictures and other decorations. Burlap is more suitable for outer halls or rooms furnished with heavy oak or Mission furniture. Silks and linens harmonize with mahogany and with the lighter and more graceful furni- ture of parlors and drawing-rooms. To Color Walls. — The Arts-and- Crafts movement is introducing the custom of tinting walls in waterproof 'Stencil Added Above. colors without the use of cloth or pa- per hangings, either in solid colors or with the addition of designs by means of stencils. The wall is usually tinted in a solid color, and the stencil added above the picture molding by way of border. " Protected by Means of a Dado." Or the walls may be painted for half or two thirds of their height and HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING 39 sanded and tinted above, a light tnolding of simple design being used to divide the two surfaces. The molding should be painted the same color as tlie woodworls:. Or a chair rail and painted dado may be used, and the walls tinted above. Stairways. — Paper for stairways may be the same as the hall paper. It often becomes soiled along the bot- tom, and may be protected by means of a dado \ about three feet high car- ried around the hall and up the stairway, and surmounted by a light wooden molding painted to corre- spond to the adjacent woodwork^ FLOOB COVSIIINOS The principal kinds of floor cover- ings in common use are rugs of vari- ous kinds, both Oriental and domes- tic; carpets, and oilcloths, including linoleum. Of carpets, the most im- portant in the order of their value and desirability are Chenille Axmin- ster, Wilton Axminster, Moquette, Velvet, Brussels, Tapestry Brussels, Ingrain or Kidderminster, two or three ply, Venetian, and old-fash- ioned rag carpet. Chenille Axminster is an imported carpet, consisting of worsted chenille woven in strips upon a jute backing. It comes three fourths of a yard wide in rolls, and may also be obtained in whole rugs or carpets specially de- signed for any kind of room. These are imported, principally from Scot- land. Domestic Axminster and UCoquette are much alike. They have a thick, high, tufted pile, which is very dur- able. The Axminster is usually of better material and construction than the Moquette. The groundwork of these carpets is jute or cotton. The pile consists of tufts of soft woolen yarn fastened upon the groundwork so as to make the design. As each color in the design of these carpets is furnished from a separate roll, acting independently, any number of colors may be employed. Hence the most elaborate patterns and shadings of color may be had in these carpets. Wilton and Brussels are made upon a groundwork of linen with a face of worsted in raised loops. In Brus- sels carpet these loops remain uncut, whereas in Wilton they are cut and the pile is sheared smooth. These loops are formed of woolen threads of continuous colors which, to form the design, are thrust through the warp threads at intervals by means of wires. As each color comes to the surface independently of the others, the de- signs are exceptionally clear and per- fect, but the number of threads that can be employed conveniently is lim- ited; hence there are fewer colors and much less shading in these carpets than in Axminster or Moquette. Velvet and Tapestry Brussels are constructed on the same principle as Wilton and Brussels, except that the worsted threads which form the sur- face are not of continuous colors, but have the colors forming the design printed upon them before the fabric is woven; hence, without any addi- tional expense, any number of colors may be employed. For this reason the designs of Velvet and Tapestry Brussels are much more elaborate in color and shading than the Wilton or Brussels carpets. Tapestry carpets are more commonly used than any other kind except Ingrains, and hence they give rise in this country to the most important branch of carpet manufacture. , Ingrain or Kidderminster carpet is the only kind of which both warp and woof is of wool. Hence it may be turned and worn on either side, al- though it shows a right and a wrong side in point of color. Its name of " Kidderminster " is derived from the city in which it was formerly manu- factured on a large scale. The names "Ingrain" and "three-ply" arise from the fact that there are two grades, one of which consists of two layers interwoven or " ingrained " to cause the colors of the design to change or mingle, whereas the other has three layers similarly put together. 40 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Venetian is made on a coarse ground of hemp filling with a woolen warp. It usually comes in stripes and is largely manufactured for stair cov- erings. Oilcloth consists of a foundation of burlap covered with a number of coat- ings of coarse paint. The pattern is printed on the surface with wooden blocks, one for each color. Oilcloth may be obtained in any width from three feet to twenty-four feet, but is ordinarily sold in narrow widths and medium weights. In purchasing oilcloth first look at the back and choose a grade of cloth the background of which is closely woven. Next see that the coating of paint is of good weight or thickness, and choose a cloth having a smooth surface rather than one which is coarse or has a raised pattern. These portions are the first to wear. Oilcloth improves with age as the paint hardens; hence select, if pos- sible, a piece which has been a long time in stock. Iiinolenm is a coined word for a floorcloth consisting of a mixture of oxidized linseed oil and pulverized cork. This is laid upon a foundation of coarse burlap and made to adhere by pressure. Linoleum was invented by ah Englishman, William Walton, and was formerly sold at rather high prices on account of a monopoly in the use of the patents in the United States. The patents have now expired and linoleum is being sold in competi- tion with oilcloths for floor coverings. It presents a better appearance, is much more durable, and hence is cheaper in the long run. Oilcloths and linoleums, if of good quality and properly laid, are perhaps the best of all floor coverings for kitchen, pantry, laundry, or any other room where wet or greasy substances are likely to be spiUed or where there is a great deal of wear. A good grade of linoleum in a solid color also makes a desirable background for Oriental or other rugs as a substitute for a hard-wood floor. To Lay Oilcloth. — The floors of many rooms, especially in houses that have been standing for many years, become very rough. The cracks widen, and some boards wear or settle more than others, making the surface un- even. This condition presents two difficulties: the cracks admit draughts from beneath, and the sharp and un- even edges wear the floor coverings. Linoleums and oilcloths being stiff and brittle are especially liable to wear and break along these cracks; hence, before laying these floor coverings, put down a number of thicknesses of newspapers. These will also prevent the floor covering, when heated by the sun or by the heat of a stove, from sticking to the floor. Or use carpet felt or carpet linings obtainable from dealers for this pur- pose. Or cover the floor evenly with saw- dust by working it into the cracks as much as possible. Or spread over the floor a rather thick coating of fine dry sand. Any of these methods makes a solid filling that increases the life of the oilcloth many years. To Varnish Oilcloths. — Oilcloth and linoleum may be much improved in appearance, and also indefinitely pre- served by an occasional coat of var- nish. To apply a fresh coat once in three months is not too often. This freshens the colors, prevents the oU- cloth from cracking, and, by lessening friction, makes it much easier to clean. If linoleum is used as a background for rugs in bedrooms or living rooms it may be painted, in imitation of va- rious colors of wood, with any of the modern varnish paints which contain stains, and dry with a smooth, glossy surface. When so treated a good lino- leum makes an imitation of a hard- wood floor, which can hardly be ex- celled either for beauty or durability. It is especially useful in those cases where a large rug is used for the cen- ter of the room with an open border about it. It is, of course, much bet- ter in such cases to cover the entire room with linoleum, and to lay the rug upon this. HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING 41 To Renew Linoleum. — Old pieces of linoleum may often be made as good as new by first washing them with a strong solution of sal soda, ammonia, and soapsuds to remove the original color. Then apply a coat of any good light-colored paint, and lay over this any desired color of varnish paint in imitation of the woodwork. Instruc- tions as to what paint to use may be had from the dealers. Always allow ' paint and varnish to become thor- oughly dry and hard before walking upon it. Use of Floor Coverings. — Floor cov- erings doubtless originated in the use by our primitive ancestors of the skins of animals as rugs, and the earliest floor coverings used by civilized na- tions were in the form of rugs. This usage still continues in the Orient. The later custom of manufacturing carpets and other floor coverings in long, narrow strips, to be joined to- geth'er, grew out of the desire to cheapen the process of manufacture by adapting the size of the fabrics to the uses of the loom. The custom of covering the entire floor of a room with carpet or other floor covering doubtless arose, in great degree, from the desire to cover cracks, knots, and other unsightly defects in cheap and badly made floors, to prevent soft- wood floors from wearing, and also to lessen draughts from the cracks be- tween floor boards. The present tendency among well- to-do people is back to the original idea of scattering rugs upon a smooth, polished surface. The ideal floor is undoubtedly of hard wood, properly laid and highly polished. This is the most sanitary, durable, and beautiful of all floors. It is the easiest to clean, and furnishes an ideal foundation as a basis for any interior decoration. The growing wealth of farmers as a class throughout the great central West and elsewhere, by reason of im- proved machinery and modern scien- tific methods of agriculture, has re- sulted in the building and furnishing of many homes having floors of this sort in the smallest towns and rural districts throughout the United States. Moreover, modern means of transpor- tation, as trolley systems, interurhaij electric railways, automobiles, and the upbuilding of local telephone systems, have promoted the building in rural neighborhoods of a vast number of summer homes. There is hardly a community in the United States where modern houses constructed with pol- ished hard-wood floors and furnished with Oriental or domestic rugs as floor coverings is not to be seen. Another great educator has been the periodicals devoted to home making and especially catering to the class of suburban residents above mentioned. These models have set the fashion for bare floors and rugs, and there is no doubt but that as time goes on this custom will become increasingly popular. Hard-wood floors may be laid under certain conditions over old floors, and be all the better for having another flooring beneath them, but they are somewhat expensive. Hence numerous ingenious methods have been used to secure the same result by imitation. To Imitate Hard-wood Floors. — Ob- tain a suitable hard-wood filler, and "Apply a Good Stain." press it into the cracks in the floor according to directions. Take care to HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES smooth the filler exactly level after the cracks have been filled. When this substance hardens, the floor will be smooth and even, and all danger from draughts will be permanently done away. Next apply a good stain of any desired color to match the wood- work, or apply a suitable paint mixed with varnish that will dry, leaving a hard, smooth, glossy surface. Soluble Glass for Eloors. — Instead of the old-fashioned method of using wax for polished floors, etc., soluble glass is now employed to great advan- tage. For this purpose the floor is first well cleaned, and then the cracks are weU filled up with a cement of water glass and powdered chalk or gypsum. Afterwards a water glass of 60° to 65°, of the thickness of sirup, is applied by means of a stiff brush. Any desired color may be imparted to the floor in a second coat of the water glass, and additional coats given until the requisite polish is obtained. A stUl higher finish may be given by pumicing off the last layer, and then putting on a coating of oil. Or denim of good quality in solid colors may be laid upon the floor as a background for the rugs. But when this material is used the rugs must be large enough and numerous enough to cover most of the surface and receive the greater part of the wear. Or use heavy building paper pasted smoothly to the floors, and apply to this two or more coats of varnish paint. This material wears well and presents a good appearance. Or heavy unbleached cotton or denim may be treated by tacking it against a building or laying it on a floor which is not in use, and applying with a paint brush one or two coats of lin- seed oil. After this is dry, apply a coat of varnish or "lac" paint, let dry and apply a second coat. After- wards apply a coat of varnish. Let the cloth dry thoroughly before using. This is a good and cheap substitute for oilcloth and linoleum for kitchen floors and all other purposes. Or matting may be used, especially in bedrooms, sewing room, sitting room, and even in the parlor if the rugs are of the right size and number and of sufBciently good quality. Or the floor may be covered, espe- cially in the sitting room, where there is more or less tracking in of mud and dirt, and in bedrooms, with a good quality of linoleum, wiiich may be stained and painted in imitation of a hard-wood floor, or to correspond with the woodwork. The great advantage offered by the bare wood or a smooth surface such as linoleum is that it can be readily kept clean and free from dust, dirt, and all sorts of vermin. Rugs may be taken up and beaten out of doors and thoroughly aired on the line, and every particle of dust and dirt can be readily removed by wiping over the floor with a damp cloth drawn bag fashion over the head of a broom. Good rugs, both Oriental and domes- tic, are no more expensive than the same grades of carpet, and their use is to be decidedly recommended for artistic and sanitary reasons as well as from a labor-saving standpoint. Denim. — ^Denim is perhaps the most generally popular floor covering as a background for rugs when cost is taken into account. But it is not, of (|S!|i ll! ill :iiui I! F' !t,« it. ii : ii ■ 'I >i 1 ll(f k m "Fitting . . . Transformed into Rugs." course, as durable as carpet, and does not come in fast colors. When partly worn, however, denim may be woven into rugs or converted into carpet rags. Filling. — An aU-wool ingrain "fill- ing" in greens and other solid colors is another popular floor covering much used as a background for rugs. This is very durable, but like denim tends to fade in comparatively few years, and must then be redyed or trans- formed into rugs. HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING 43 To Choose Carpets.— The effect of design in carpets is much the same as in wall paper. Large patterns tend to make a room seem small, and bor- ders about the carpet have the same effect. The present tendency favors carpets in solid colors or having small and delicate patterns. Large patterns and all sorts of glaring contrasts of color should be avoided. Both very dark and very light carpets are diffi- cult to keep clean, and carpets con- taining blue, green, or other delicate colors, when exposed to simlight, tend to fade. As to color, carpets should, of course, harmonize with the general color scheme of the room. But as they cannot be changed as frequently as the wall coverings, they should, as a rule, be in neutral colors that will harmonize with almost any other scheme that may be adopted. A point in favor of carpets having small patterns is that the two webs of which the carpet consists are much inore closely interwoven if the design is small than if the pattern is a large one. Hence the carpet having a small design is likely to be more durable. Moreover, where there are no large patterns to attract the eye the results of wear are not so noticeable. As to material, ingrain or three-ply carpets being of wool and capable of being turned and worn on both sides, probably give most wear for the money of any carpets on the market. But Brussels and tapestry carpets, which are somewhat more expensive, are also, on account of their beauty and excellent wearing qualities, in very general use. Rag Carpet. — This is the cheapest carpet of all and can readily be made on a hand loom at home. It makes a thi^ and serviceable covering for the floors of kitchen or living rooms in winter. To make rag carpet, use a warp of strong cotton thread, and weave in any kind of rags twisted into small rolls. To Color Bag-carpet Warp. — First use a strong cotton yarn reeled into skeins of five knots. About one skein to the yard of carpet will be required, with about three knots additional for binding at the end of each breadth. For tan color first soak the warp thoroughly with lime water; next boil it in a brass or copper kettle in a strong solution of extract of hemlock bark in water. This is used by tan- ners for making leather, and may be obtained through a tanner or dealer i> dye stuff. For black color soak the warp in strong copperas water instead of lime water, and use iron or tin vessels in- stead of brass or copper. Afterwards boil in the hemlock solution. For slate color use weaker solu- tions of copperas and hemlock. For brown use a weak solution of copperas and a strong solution of hemlock. Thus, by a little experi- menting, the shades of color may be varied at will. Carpet Bags. — The contents of the rag bag should be first picked over, and rags intended to be used as car- pet rags should be washed and ironed and afterwards ripped apart. Seams and worn spots should be rejected. They should then be sorted according to the colors of materials, and if not needed at once, stored away for fu- ture use in paper bags. Woolen rags should be protected against moths by pasting the tops otthe bags together. Rags of fast and satisfactory col- ors need not be dyed. But better effects may often be obtained by dye- ing all rags to suitable colors. To cut carpet rags, trim around the outside of the rag, clipping off square corners, and continue cutting round and round until the rag is all cut up. By this means small pieces may be utilized, the rags will be of satisfac- tory length, and will require less sew- ing. Cotton rags and rags of fine dress goods make a smoother and bet- ter-looking carpet than rags of heavy woolen colors. Hence the latter had better be kept separate and made into rugs or kitchen carpets. The quantity of rags required for a carpet may be estimated by weight. For each yard one and one half to two 44 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES pounds of rags, depending upon the material, will be required. In sewing, it is better to mix the different shades of the same color so that the stripes will be of an even and uniform shade. Thus the breadths will present the same appearance. But if the pepper- and-salt pattern is desired all the colors may be mixed together. For this kind of carpet short pieces may be utilized. Rag carpets also come by the piece and may be bought in shops by the yard, the same as others. But when made at home or woven to order they can be ordered to fit the room, the breadths being made exact- ly to measure and bound up at the ends. Allowance in ordering should be made for shrinkage, as the breadths tend to become a little shorter and wider with wear. To Cut Carpets. — Before cutting a new carpet, unroll a little more than twice the length of the room, double this in the middle so that the edges will come side by side, and work it back and forth so as to match the pattern at a length a little longer than that of the room. The required num- ber of strips can thus be cut in such a way that the pattern wUl be matched exactly without waste. Try both ways on the floor before cutting, as it may be more economical to cut the lengths for the short way of the floor. Any pieces wasted in matching the pattern may be used to make rugs or foot stools, or to fill in recesses. To Sew Carpets. — Sew with the through-and-through stitch, very close together. Straw Hatting. — ^When purchasing straw matting it is advisable to buy the best grade of fine white or unfig- nred matting for all rooms alike; thus as it wears out it can be readily matched or replaced by putting good matting from two rooms together in one. Matting Rugs. — Cut suitable lengths of matting and hem with twine string for use as summer rugs. Two or more breadths may be attached together if desired to make wide rugs. Use plain, or apply paint, or stain of any desired color. A large square rug can be made in this way to occupy the center of the floor, a border being made by painting or staining the floor, or cov- ering with green denim or drugget. Rag Rugs. — Very durable and use- ful rugs may be made of all sorts of old rags in the same fashion as a rag carpet, or by braiding, or they may be knitted or drawn through burlap or canvas as in embroidery. Small pieces maybe utilized by commencing at one side and cutting the width of a car- pet rug almost to the end, then turn- ing a corner and cutting along the side, and so going around the outside until the piece is cut up. After clip- ping off the square corners the rag will be found to be of convenient length. Carpet rags should be wound into balls of uniform size. They catch less dust, and do not become tangled. When ready to tack them, have a sew- ing bee, or run them up on the sewing machine. This will enable you to do them very quickly. Old stocking legs make especially pretty rugs. To Make Drawn Rugs. — First pre- pare a frame by nailing together four pieces of lathe or other light pine stuff, and stretch on this a piece of strong burlap or coarse canvas. Pre- pare the rags by cutting them in a uniform width of one half inch or less, and wind each color in a separate ball. Draw the rags through the burlap by means of a hook, that can be extem- porized from a piece of wire. Insert the hook from above between the warp and woof of the burlap, and draw the rag up from below so as to form loops projecting at imiform heights above the burlap. This is the prin- ciple upon which Axminster carpet is made. A design may be traced on the burlap by means of chalk or char- coal, and the outlines drawn with two or three rows of rags in different col- ors. A little experience will indicate how closely together to draw the loops, which should project a half inch or less above the burlap. If desired, the loops may afterwards be clipped, as HOUSE FUENISHING AND DECORATING 45 is done with the Wilton carpets, by means of a sharp pair of scissors. CTTBTAINS, SHADES, AITD DBAFEBIES The use of curtains originated be- fore the invention of glass, when win- dows were either open or imperfectly protected against draughts. They originally hung straight down across the sash. At present the object of window shades and curtains is primarily to regulate the amount of light in the room, and to screen the interior, when desired, from observation from with- out. It is a prime rule of good taste in decoration that it must not be al- lowed to interfere with the purpose for which a thing is intended. Hence curtains and draperies that cannot be drawn aside to admit the light, or let fall to exclude it, are objectionable. Curtains for French windows should be arranged with cords and pulleys so as to be brought out of the way when the windows are opened, or ad- justed on rods long enough so that they can be drawn to one side. Window Curtains. — Some city houses have three or four sets of "Simpler Mdhcds . . . Are Gaining Favor." curtains, but the simpler methods of country houses are gaining in favor. One set is sufficient, and more than two are undesirable. A thin semi- transparent curtain of lace, net, or muslin, in white or 6cvu, may be used next the glass. This may either be crossed at the top and hang straight down or be draped at the middle sash with a band. This is a question of taste and depends upon the propor- tions of the room and the window. When an inner curtain of heavy ma- terial is used the lace or net curtain should usually be draped to soften the outlines. Lace or net curtains are usually, but not always, used down- stairs, and less expensive curtains of muslin are used for bedrooms and other upstairs windows. Materials for Window Curtains. — Lace curtains may be purchased ready made. Or curtains may be made of bobbinet or similar material and edged with ruffles or suitable lace. Or Cluny lace may be used by way of insertion. Plain scrim, with no other decoration than hemstitched hems, makes hand- some curtains. They launder easily and well. If they bleach with, time they can be restored to their original color by being dipped in dilute coffee. The best materials for bedrooms are dotted Swiss or other muslins. Other serviceable materials are India linen, Aberdeen linen, Persian cotton, cre- tonnes, and linen taffetas. The reps of various fabrics — cotton, wool, and silk — all hang well and are soft and graceful. Any suitable material may be scal- loped along the edge by means of a tumbler. Mark around this with chalk or pencil. Buttonhole the scallop^ and work in them polka dots or other sim- ple design. Muslin Curtains. — For bedroom curtains it pays to buy various cotton materials like dimity and muslin by the piece, and to make them all the same style. It is wise to keep to the same pattern, as dots or small rings, and to buy new pieces the same as the old, or as nearly so as they can be matched. Then new curtains can be used with the old. As the curtains begin to wear they can be put to- gether as pairs, or changed from 46 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES room to room as long as any two are left Or when curtains from the living rooms wear on the edges, trim them off, hem them neatly, and turn the edged border toward the sash. They will make good curtains for bedrooms or other inconspicuous windows that will l^st for years. Dyeing Curtains. — All cotton mate- rials can be readily dyed by dipping them in dye stuff after they have been washed and rinsed in the laundry. Thus the curtains can be made to conform to any desired color shade. Cheese cloth when dyed in suitable colors makes pretty and inexpensive curtains. Hemmed bands or borders of striped silkoline or other suitable material add a decorative effect. Dark green trimmed with a stripe in Orien- tal design and coloring makes a very pretty curtain. Or take cheese cloth or unbleached sheeting which may be any old mate- rial as old sheets, from which pieces of suitable size can be cut for cur- i°?r iMiniiniiw 'Decorative Border in OilPairds: tains, and dye them in any suitable shade. White cotton dipped in a deep brown dye and afterwards in a deep green gives a beautiful gray-green color. Or unbleached cotton sheeting can be stenciled or hand painted with a decorative border in oil paints thinned slightly with turpentine, and thus given a very artistic effect. Cut the curtain wide enough so that the inner edge of each pair may be turned over eight inches. Fold this strip top and bottom into squares. Mark the squares by means of a stencil and paint any design to form the border. To Hang lace Curtains. — To hang lace curtains without assistance, first adjust the pole; throw the top of the curtain loosely over the pole; then, by means of a common pin or tack, fas- ten each scallop to the skirting board just above the carpet or along the floor. The curtain may then be drawn up rather firmly over the pole so that when the pins are removed the cur- tain wiU have been stretched just enough to lift it off the floor. This, without jumping down to look, in- sures the curtain hanging evenly. To Mend lace Curtains. — To mend delicate lace and net curtains when they first show a tear, take very fine thread and a hook and fill up the space with a single crochet stitch. When laundered the mend will defy detection. Or when lace curtains are much worn, take one or two of the worst for patches, and after the others are laundered cut a patch to match the design of the torn part, dip it in thick starch, lay it carefully over the rent, and iron it down. The starch will cause it to adhere until the curtains are laundered again. Strips of net or illusion may also be used in the same way. Sash Curtains. — Use partly worn muslin or silk curtains for sash cur- tains. The tops and bottoms of old curtains that have not had the direct rays Of the sun will usually be found best for sash curtains. The middle part can be discarded. Make a wide hem top and bottom through which to run the rod. A wide hem is not so likely to tear, and the curtains can be used either end up. Slip a round- headed hat pin into the hollow of the rod to run them in the hems, and they will pass easily through. Rods may be fixed inside the sash so as to be elevated with the vrindow and not to lean against the screen. Cords tacked across the window will prevent the HOUSE FURNISHING AND DECORATING 47 sash curtain from beating against the screen. Or instead of rods use quarter-inch iron wire painted over witli gold paint or otherwise gilded or silvered. This makes the wire look better and pre- vents it from rusting. This wire is suitable for shams, mantels, and closet curtains, and many similar purposes in house decoration. It answers the same purpose as brass rods, and is much cheaper. It can be purchased at any hardware store, cut to any de- sired length. Flour Sacks. — Large flour sacks may be utilized for sash curtains by carefully washing out the print and finishing with a suitable design in fancy work. Curtains for Broad Windows. — Di- vide a broad, low window, or two win- dows together, by running two shelves across, one at the top of each sash. Paint or stain these to match the woodwork. Fit sash curtains to both shelves by means of rods or quarter- inch iron or copper iron, and hang "Divide a Broad Low Window. from brass rings. Let the hangings match the woodwork or conform to the color scheme of the room. The upper shelves may be treated as a, plate rail, and the lower shelf may hold pots of ferns or other green plants. Window Shades. — A double set of window shades — an inner dark shade to harmonize with the color scheme of the room, and an outer white shade — are desirable, but both are not neces- sary. It saves carpets and other things from fading to exclude the sunshine when a room is not in use, and also assists in keeping sunny rooms cool in summer. Hence, a dark or tan shade is to be preferred, unless the house is. fitted with blinds. In that case only the white shade is necessary. To Renew Window Shades. — Trim off the soiled or worn part at the bot- tom, make a new hem, and put back the stick. To do this lay on an iron- ing board, curled side down, the part of the shade that has been curled up over the roller and press it with a hot iron. This makes it easy to turn a hem, which may be stitched, on the sewing machine. Let the stitch out as far as it will go so that the fabric will not pucker. Or, if the shade is too short to trim, change the ends by opening the hem at the bottom, taking the shades from the roller and tacking the bottom of the shade to the roller. Make a new hem and put back the stick. To Hang Window Shades. — To ad- j ust the spring on new window shades, roll them tight, fasten them into the sockets, and draw them down full length. Take them out of their sock- ets, roll them up again by hand, and again draw them down until the spring is as strong as desired. To Prevent Blowing Window Shades. — To prevent the window shades from being drawn out at the top of the window or blowing back and forth when the upper sash is low- ered for ventilation, attach the cord from the bottom of the shade to the back of a chair, and move it a suffi- cient distance from the window to give a free circulation of air under- neath it. Substitute for Window Shades. — To economize on window shades, the upper rooms of a house may be fitted with shades of white cotton, having the selvage on one side and a very 48 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES fine hem on the other. By the addi- tion of a little glue size or gum arable to the starch, they can be made very stiff. They look from outside almost equal to ordinary shades of Holland linen. They can, of course, readily be laundered when soiled. Draperies. — Portieres and other dra- peries must be selected with due re- gard to the size and shape of the room, as well as to the color scheme. Heavy, thick draperies make a small room look close and stuffy. But light, airy hangings are equally out of place in. a large room. To improve the effect of a room that is too narrow and high between joints, or a room having too high and narrow doors and windows, lower the window shades twelve or fifteen inches from the top and fill in the space with a grUl, a rope network. "Lower the Rod." a shirring of silk, or similar decora- tion. If the doors open outward, or if a door is" taken down and hung with draperies, lower the rod twelve or fifteen inches and fill in above with shirred silk or silkoline to harmonize with the portieres or draperies. Or run a shelf or plate rack across the top of the door on a level with the top of the window shades; by these means the room is made to seem lower and larger in proportion to its height. Or lower the curtain from the pole by means of cords to match the dra- pery. La with the greatest care. Pictures hung in the living rooms of a home reveal the tastes of the inmates. Hence not only should the subjects be appro- priate to the room in which they are hung, but they should harmonize with one another, and contribute to a pleas- ing general effect. No single picture should be so large or so heavily framed as to be the most conspicuous object in the room or attract undue attention from other pictures and from the furnishings in general. THE BININe BOOM Besides the regular dining-room fur- niture, tables, chairs, sideboard, and serving table, the addition of a plate rail or rack for plates, pitchers, and other decorative china objects, and of a china cabinet with glass doors for displaying the best china, help to give a room character and beauty. The effect of these articles will be very much heightened if the wall coverings are in solid or double-toned colors, and, as in other living rooms, hard- wood floors or floor coverings in solid colors, with a large rug or drugget coming within a few feet of the wall aU around, make perhaps the most effective treatment. The color scheme of the dining room should preferably be in cheerfid tones, as blues, yel- lows, or reds, according to the amount of light the room receives. China Closet. — The china cabinet is a useful and beautiful article of fur- niture, but in the absence of such a cabinet any ordinary closet opening into a dining room may be utilized as a china closet by removing the door and replacing it with a deco- rative door with diamond panes of glass, and lining the interior with denim to correspond in color with the furnishings of the room. Or the door may be removed and replaced by a suitable drapery hang- ing from a rod, and drawn aside when the dining room is in use. Screw hooks on the inside of the shelves of the china cabinet or closet from which to hang cups to display them, save space, and prevent breakage. Tack a narrow strip of board two or three inches from the back of each shelf, as a rim to hold up the plates. Or put in a row of brass tacks standing an eighth of an inch above the shelf for this purpose. Table Pad.— A pad of table felt sold for the purpose should be laid over the dining-room table, both to protect the polish and to save the linen tablecloth. But an old blanket or thick cotton flannel may be used for this purpose, or clean carpet lin- ing can be utilized by covering it with white muslin smoothly pasted on. This will last for months and can be read- ily replaced. To Store Table leaves. — Fasten un- der the lower shelf of the pantry the frame in which the extra boards of the extension dining table come, and slide the boards in. Thus they take up no extra space and are always at hand. China. — Select a stock pattern when buying china, and preferably a stand- ard design of some sort, as the well- known willow or onion design, or some other that can be readily replaced as pieces are broken. When possible it is, of course, a good plan to have two sets of china, one for best, to be dis- played in the china cabinet and only used upon special occasions, and an- other for ordinary wear, which may be less delicate and expensive. THE EITCHEir, STOBEBOOM, AND PAHTEY The kitchen, as the workshop of the house, is the room in which many housekeepers spend most of their waking hours. Hence it should be perhaps the lightest, airiest, and most cheerful room in the house. It is safe to say that much more attention might well be given to the matter of kitchen conveniences than they usu- ally receive. There are very few housekeepers indeed who could not, by intelligent forethought in plan- ning and arranging the contents of the kitchen, pantry, and storeroom, 74 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES save themselves daily miles of useless traveling to and fro. Color for Kitchen. — Try to make the kitchen a room in harmonizing tints by painting or tinting the walls in light greens and the floor in dark green. Or a clear, light yellow is a good color for the kitchen walls, with the floor in brown. Or, if the room has a southern or western exposure, gray walls, with the floor in drab or slate color, will give a. cooler effect. Kitchen Walls. — Kitchen walls should be covered with washable ma- terials; hence ordinary wall paper ' The Cracks May be Filled.' and calcimine are less suitable in the kitchen than in other parts of the house. If the walls are new and smooth, tint them in waterproof ce- ment or paint them with water colors and coat with soluble glass. Both these processes are inexpensive. Or washable paper is excellent. It can be washed and kept perfectly clean, and does not absorb grease or moisture. Or paint the walls with common oU paint of good quality and finish with a coat of enamel paint or soluble glass, so that they can be mopped the same as the floor. For this purpose fit a large sponge into a mop handle. But paint is not as easy to wash down as washable paper or oilcloth, hence, where the walls are in go'od condition, the latter is preferable. Kitchen Floor. — A tight, smooth floor of unpainted wood, hard enough not to splinter and to admit of being scrubbed, is perhaps the best floor for a kitchen. But if the floor is of soft wood, or is uneven and has unsightly cracks in it, the cracks may be filled and the floor painted with oil paints, and varnish or " lac " paints contain- ing varnish may be used. Or the floor may be covered with linoleum, which is perhaps, all things considered, the most satisfactory floor covering. Before laying the linoleum on a rough floor, cover the floor with y than ordinary articles; hence they should be handled by themselves and given special treatment. After being done up they can be laid away until house cleaning is finished, and put up as each room is cleaned. To Air Lace Curtains. — ^Lace cur- tains may be cleaned easily and will not need washing so often if hung on the line on a clear day with a gentle breeze — not too windy — and dusted by the wind. Washing these articles is a 214 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES delicate and difficult business, and they necessarily suffer more or less from the process. To Prepare Curtains for the Laun- dry. — Stitch a narrow piece of tape along the hem of net or lace curteiins before they go to the laundry. This keeps the curtain from pulling out of shape when ironed. Lay the curtains on an old sheet and brush them care- fully with a soft brush to remove the dust. Fold them separately as a table- cloth is folded, taking care to keep the edges perfectly together until the folds are about two feet square. Baste a strip of white muslin along the edges to keep the package in order and quilt slightly with basting thread. In this shape large curtains can be put into siids and cleaned with a pounder or otherwise. Or fold them carefully and insert in a pillowcase, running through them at intervals strong basting thread to keep them flat and prevent their bunching in the end of the case. Or they may be carefully gathered crosswise and tied loosely in a bunch by two or three cords at intervals. Wash like other fine white goods, first, if much soiled, soaking for an hour or more in soap and cold water, next rubbing gently between the hands in warm or hot soapsuds, and afterwards boiling in one or more hot suds ac- cording to their condition. Rinse first in hot water, afterwards two or three times in cold water, adding bluing to the last. Kerosene, ammonia, or tur- pentine may be used in the boiling water, but no washing powders that may contain free alkali. Or put the curtain in a large tin funnel with a wooden handle attached to it; work it through suds and rins- ing water in such a way that the water will pass through the curtain and out at the bottom of the funnel, removing the dirt by suction. This process will not injure the most delicate fabrics, no matter how long it may continue. Colored Curtains. — If there is any doubt about colors being fast, deli- cate-colored curtains may he. cleansed with gasoline. To Dry Curtains. — If curtains are dried out of doors, cover the line on which they are hung with one or more thicknesses of paper or throw over it a dry sheet. This will prevent the clothespin from marking the articles and keep them from being injured by the wind. Or, if the curtains are folded and basted together with muslin, dry them before taking them out of the folds. Or lay a blanket on the floor and spread the wet curtains on it, stretching them carefully. They wiU keep their place and dry without fas- tening. To Stretch Curtains. — A curtain stretcher is not used in most fanulies, and hence is something of a luxury. Sometimes two or three families in a neighborhood can combine to purchase one for their common use. As a sub- stitute lay a sheet or clean wrapping paper on the floor, stretch the cur- tains over this, and fasten by means of heavy pins called bank pins, which can be obtained at the stores. Use a. pin for each scallop, driving them in- to the floor with a tack hanuner. Lay other curtains over these, hooking them on the same pins, as is done on stretchers. Several curtains may be hooked on the same set of pins. The pins may be afterwards removed and used again. Or the curtains may be pinned to a sheet laid upon the carpet, two or three curtains by ^refuUy matching the scallops being pinned down at the same time. Or stretch a sheet on a quilting frame, and pin the curteiins to this. Or, while damp, hang the curtains, one at a time, on a curtain rod, and slip a heavy rod or curtain pole through the hem at the bottom. Stretch the curtains to their full width, and allow them to hang until dry. The weight of the rod at the bottom will stretch them sufficiently. SILKS AND SATIN To Launder Silks. — ^To wash silk drtsses and other garments, ribbons. WASH DAY 215 handkerchiefs, stockings, and the like, first rip apart made-up garments, shake, and brush thoroughly to free them from dust. Prepare soap jelly by cutting castUe or other good white hard soap into shavings, pour over it about double its own bulk of water, and dissolve by gentle heat. Have ready two or three tubs or pans and fill these partly full of hot water. Thus the washing and rinsing waters will cool alike and always be of ex- actly the same temperature. This is the great point to observe in washing all animal fibers, as silks or woolens. In the first receptacle dissolve enough soap jelly to make good suds, and let stand until the hands can be comfortably borne in the water. Wash each piece separately in the suds by sousing it up and down, raising it in one hand and stripping it through the fingers with the other. Continue this process until clean, but without creasing, wringing, or squeezing it. When washed clean, strip through the fingers to remove suds. If soiled spots do not come out, rub on a little soap jelly and immediately dip again into the suds. Change the suds if neces- sary. Rinse in clear water, following the same process as in washing, strip out the water between the fingers, or shake out the pieces without wring- ing, and iron at once without hanging up to dry. Or mix 6 ounces of strained honey with 4 ounces of soft-soap jelly made of castUe or other hard white soap, and add 1 pint of whisky. Rip apart made-up articles, spread the pieces flat on a smooth surface, and apply this mixture with a brush, rubbing lightly with the grain of the silk. Rinse in two or three clear waters, not too hot to bear the hands com- fortably, and without wringing, creas- ing, or folding the silk. Add a little sugar or a tablespoonful of honey to the last rinsing water. Iron at once. Or for delicate fabrics, as China silk, pongee, and similar dress goods, for each article, as a waist or sum- mer gown, put IJ pints of bran in a bag of white muslin, and pour over it sufficient boiling water to wash the garment. When the hands can be borne in it comfortably, squeeze the bag in the water to extract the solu- tion of bran. Add 1 or 3 teaspoon- fuls of powdered borax, wash, rinse in clear water, and iron at once. Use no starch, as the bran gives sufficient stiffness. To Wash Colored Silks. — The same cautions must be observed in washing colored silks as in the case of other colored goods, with the additional cau- tion that they must not be crushed, squeezed, or wrung when wet, or wrinkles may be formed which will not iron out. Prepare suds for silk by dissolving hard white soap in boil- ing water, and add oxgall or alum to set the colors. Allow the suds to cool until they will bear the hands, and immerse the silk in them. Lay the washboard across the tub, spread an old towel or piece of flannel over it, lay the silk flat on this, and apply the suds by rubbing gently with a soft cloth or a sponge, or a toothbrush or nailbrush having medium hard bris- tles. When the silk is clean apply cold water with the brush and after- wards souse in cold water containing salt. If the silk is of solid color, dis- solve a little dye the color of the silk in the rinsing water. If the color has faded this will restore it. Silk gar- ments rinsed in diluted dye water will come out nearly as fresh as new. To Wash White Silk. — Prepare suds as for other delicate white goods by using hard white soap, but no soda or washing compounds containing free alkali. Cleanse the silks by applying the soapsuds with a soft cloth or brush, rinse in cold water, partially dry in the sun, and while still damp iron between two cloths on the wrong side. To Wash Satin. — Satins may be washed in the same manner as silks, or sponge the way of the grain with a, weak solution of borax. To Wash Silk Stockings. — Prepare a lather and wash as other silk goods. For white stockings add a little blu- ing to the last rinsing water. For 216 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES other tints add a little dye of the re- quired color. Stretch the stockings to their proper shape, and pin or baste them between two thicknesses of a clean linen towel. Stretch this tent fashion, and the stockings will dry in their natural shape without ironing. Or wash in bran water. WOOLENS, WOBSTEDS, AND FLAN- NELS To Wash Woolen Goods and Flan- nels. — Washing woolen goods and flannels without shrinking them or causing them to lose their natural softness and delicate colors is one of the best tests of the skillful lauin- dress. Cautions for Woolen Goods. — ^Wool- en and flannel goods must not be soaked, boiled, scalded, or wrung out by twisting. They must not be dried near a hot fire. The fibers of wool are hooked and curled, and when they are crushed together by rubbing they form knots, which thicken the fiber and shrink it in both dimensions. This is one of the principal causes of the shrinking that is so much feared. Or the expansion and contraction caused by alternate heat and cold may cause the fibers to interlace. Flannels may be shrunk, if desired, before they are made up by first placing them in cold and afterwards in hot water. But they can be washed without shrinking if proper precautions are observed. To Suds Woolens and Flannels. — Prepare suds by dissolving 1 bar of hard white soap shaved fine in a boil- erful of water and adding 3 table- spoonfuls of aqua ammonia. Do not use yellow soap which contains borax or soda in any form, or washing fluids and powders of the composition of which you know nothing. Pour the suds into a tub and allow them to be- come cool enough to bear the hands comfortably before putting in the flannels. Wash these articles one at a time as quickly as possible. Do not rub soap on them or rub them on the washboard. Souse them up and down in the water and rub them together with the hands until cleaned. Do not put them through the wringer or wring by twisting, but squeeze out the soapsuds with the hands, shake out carefully, stretch, and wash in a second lather prepared like the first, but not so strong. Rinse in warm water as near the temperature of the suds as possible, to which a little bluing may be added, press out the rinsing water, shake vigorously, and stretch the articles to prevent shrink- ing. Pull each piece as nearly as possi- ble into its proper shape and hang up carefully in such a way that the shape may be preserved. A clear, bright day with sunshine and a light breeze is desirable. Flannels should be taken down while still slightly damp and roUed up in a dry cloth. If the weather is not clear they may be dried indoors, but not near the stove. The object should be to avoid extreme changes of temperature, as these cause flannels to shrink and be- come hard. To Wash Colored Woolens and Flannels. — ^Wash colored woolens and flannels same as other colored goods, adding oxgall or alum to the suds to set the colors, and salt or vinegar, or both, to the rinsing water. Omit the use of ammonia or borax. Dry deli- cate colored flannels in the shade. To Wash Colored Woolen Dress Goods. — Cashmere, merino, alpaca, and llama dresses and colored worst- ed and flannel waists and blouses may be washed in suds prepared as for other colored woolen goods, provid- ed the same cautions are observed. Do not soak, boil, or scald any woolen goods. Do not use any form of soda, lye, or unknown washing fluids or pow- ders. Do not use borax or ammonia for delicate colored articles. Use pure neutral white or yellow soap shaved and dissolved in boiling water until it will bear the hands comfortably, and keep the suds and rinsing water at the same lukewarm temperature. Rub and wring as lightly as possible, rather sousing the garments up and down and squeezing out the water WASH DAY 217 with the hands. Add oxgall or alum to the suds, and salt or vinegar to the rinsing water to set the colors. Dry delicate colors in the shade. Avoid direct sunlight or proximity to a hot fire. Take down before dry and iron while damp, but without sprin- kling. Soap Jelly for Woolen Goods. — To avoid preparing suds by shaving soap and boiling each time, it is convenient to prepare in advance a soap jelly, as follows: shave any amount of neutral white or yellow soap in the propor- tion of i pound of soap to 1 quart of boiling water and simmer until dis- solved. When cold it will jell. Use this jelly in the proportion of 1 heap- ing tablespoonful to J gallon of warm water to prepare suds for washing all flannel or woolen goods. This saves the time required to bring the water to a boil. To Wash Colored flannel and Woolen Goods — Other Kethods. — In addition to soapsuds, flannel and wool- en goods may be washed in bran, flour starch, or rice. To use flour starch, take a teacupful of flour and rub it smooth with a little water to form a fine paste. Add boiling water slowly, stirring vigorously to make a smooth starch. Boil five or ten minutes and strain through cheese cloth into half a tubful of warm water, stirring vig- orously. This will make good suds without soap. To Wash Dress Goods with Rice. — Boil 3 pounds of rice in 13 quarts of water for 2 or 3 hours. Pour half of this into a tub, and when cool enough to bear the hands put the garments in and wash them with the soft boiled rice the same as with soap. Strain the other half through cheese cloth. Put the solid part into an- other tub of warm water and wash the garments once in this. Rinse in clear warm water, and a second time in warm water in which the clear rice water that was reserved for this pur- pose has been added. This will take the place of starch. No soap or starch need be used. The rice should be boiled a day or two in advance and kept in readiness, so that garments may be washed early in the morning and done up the same day. Woolen Taney Work — Crochet, etc. — Small and delicate woolen articles may be put into a cotton bag or tied up in a pillowcase and washed the same as other woolen articles. The suds and rinsing water should be plen- tiful. The articles need not be taken out of the bag while washing, and they may be hung up in it on the line to dry. Woolen Tahle Covers. — First re- move all stains and grease spots; next soak thirty minutes in strong salt water. Prepare suds, wash, rinse, and dry same as other colored woolen goods. If much soiled, apply soap and water with a. scrubbing brush, laying the cloth on the washboard placed crosswise upon the tub. To Wash Knitted Shawls. — Knitted or crocheted shawls may be folded as flat as possible and laid carefully in a pillowcase, run through at inter- vals with basting thread to keep flat, and treated like other flannel or wool- en goods. If washed separately, ob- serve the usual cautions for woolen goods, gently squeezing through the hands and keeping the suds and rins- ing water of the same lukewarm tem- perature. Do not hang knitted goods up to dry, but put in the oven on a big platter, shaking and turning oc- casionally, or lay on a clean cloth in the bright sunshine. Woolen Shawls. — The most delicate colored cashmere and other woolen shawls may be washed in soapsuds if proper precautions are observed. Make suds same as for other woolen goods by dissolving 1 pound of hard white soap in 3J pailfuls of water. Add 1 tablespoonful of oxgall or 2 ounces of alum and wash the articles by sous- ing up and down, rubbing as little as possible. Squeeze the water out of them and rinse in two or three waters, each containing a teaspoonftil of salt. Place between two dry sheets to wring out and wring lightly. Press while still damp with a warm, not hot, iron. 218 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES To Wash Blankets. — Choose a warm, sunny day with a gentle breeze. Pre- pare suds by dissolving in hot water i bar of any good white hard soap, 1 tablespoonful of borax, and 1 table- spoonful of aqua ammonia for each pair of blankets. Let the suds cool until they will bear the hands. Im- merse the blankets and let them stand in the suds for an hour, keeping the temperature about as hot as the hands wiU bear by frequently adding hot water. Do not rub soap on the blan- kets nor scour nor rub them. Lay the "Lay the Washboard Across the Tub." washboard flat across the tub, put in one blanket at a time, raise the blan- ket on to the washboard and go around the edge, applying the suds with a scrubbing brush and rubbing vigor- ously. Meantime heat sufficient water for two more lathers. Remove from the first to a second suds prepared in the same manner, seize the blanket by the middle and souse it up and down. Squeeze and press it between the hands until clean. Rinse in three clear waters, keeping them at the same tem- perature as the suds, namely, as hot as the hands will bear, and run through the wringer or squeeze the water out of them rather than wring them in the usual way. Fasten by the edges to the line and frequently shake and stretch them to their proper size while drying. To have the best success in washing blankets two points must be observed, namely: to keep the water at a uniform temperature, neither boil- ing hot nor cold enough to chill, but as hot as the hands will bear; and not to wring or rub the blankets in such a way that the fibers will become in- terlaced and cause shrinking. When thoroughly dry beat the blankets while on the line with a carpet beater. This wiU cause the wool to become fluffy like a new blanket. To Wash. Bedspreads. — If bed- spreads are changed quite frequently they will not require soaking, but if very much soiled they may be soaked by putting them in a tub and pour- ing over them a boilerf ul of hot water in which 3 tablespoonfuls of borax has been dissolved. Prepare suds by dissolving 1 bar of hard white or yellow soap in a boilerful of hot water and wash same as other white goods. Do not use, any form of soda, lye, or any washing fluids or com- pounds. If washed on a windy day, bedspreads will need no ironing. Fold the edges together and pin them on the line with the wrong side out. This not only prevents the spread from wearing across the middle, but gives it a fresher appearance than ironing. To Wash Comforters. — Sometimes a heavy comforter can be washed by simply tacking it smoothly on a clean shingle roof and letting the rain fall on it. It is well to previously soak it for half an hour or more in a strong solution of common salt to prevent the colors running. Or soak the comforter for an hour or two in borax water. Prepare suds as for other colored goods, with the addition of oxgall or alum and salt. Lay the washboard across the top of the tub and apply the suds with a soft scrubbing brush, especially round the edges. Continue as in washing blankets. Those who have a supply of running water may use the garden hose for rinsing blankets, bedspreads, and comforters. Remove from the suds without wringing, hang them on a line, and drench them with water from the hose until they are rinsed thoroughly. WASH DAY ^19i BBYING CLOTHES Bag for Clothespins. — The ordi- nary wooden clothespins are the best. Keep clothespins for convenience in a bag made like a laundry bag of crash, linen, or other washable material, or use for this purpose a 24-pound flour sack. A wire hoop at the top of the clothespin bag is a convenience in keeping it open when clothespins are wanted. To Preserve Clothespins. — Put the clothespin bag into a kettle of boiling water every few weeks. Remove after three to five minutes and spread the clothespins out to dry in the sun, or dry quickly near the flre. This keeps them from becoming brittle and crack- ing. Dip the heads of part of the clothes- pins in dark paint, part in light paint, and leave the rest unpainted. Use the ones with dark heads for colored garments, those with light heads for miscellaneous pieces, as flannels, tow- els, and the like, and the unpainted ones for sheer white garments. Tills will prevent using on sheer white pieces pins that have been stained by colored garments. To Have Clothespins Handy. — ^Make an apron with a large baglike pocket to contain clothespins, to wear whUe hanging out the clothes. Or put clothespins into a small bas- ket (an ordinary grape basket is con- venient), and hang the basket on the clothesline by a hook made of wire, such as is used to hold the basket by apple and berry pickers. Push the basket along as you hang the clothes. It is handy, and is also out of the way. Or hang on each clothes post a bag made of oilcloth with a lapel. Attach a sufficient number of pins to the clothesline by pieces of strong cord about a foot long. Fish line is ex- cellent for this purpose. Make a loop of the cord over the clothesline large enough to admit of it slipping along, and fasten the pins securely at the other end. After the clothes are taken down, the clothespins will remain sus- pended from the line by the cords. Now shove them all along the line to the post, drop them into the bag without untying them, cover with the lapel, and leave them there for future use. But this plan necessi- tates leaving the clothesline out of doors. Or set the clothes basket and clothespin bag on a child's four- wheeled cart, or even a wheelbarrow, and push them along under the line as you proceed. To Keep the Hands Warm. — Set the clothespin bag in a. kettle of boiling water. Remove and dry near the stove. The hot clothespins will help to keep the hands warm in freezing weather. To Select and Preserve Clotheslines. — Gutta-percha clotheslines are much more satisfactory than rope. They can be left out of doors in all weathers, and wiped clean with a damp cloth. But clotheslines of rope will last lon- ger and keep in better order if they are boiled in water for a couple of hours when first purchased, and af- terwards dipped in boiling water once a month. They must be thoroughly dried by hanging them near the fire or stretch- ing them on the clothes posts in the sunshine. Care must be taken not to allow them to kink. To Wash Clotheslines. — A soiled line may be cleansed and made to look like new by boiling it in strong soapsuds. For this purpose make suds of a neutral white or yellow soap, but do not use soda in any form or wash- ing powders containing free alkali. The line is so thick that the alkali may not all be rinsed out of it and hence will be likely to rot the fiber. Wind the line into a coil around the elbow, tie it securely at both ends, and . put it in the boiling suds. If it is much soiled, change the water. Pour the last suds into the tub, place the coil of line on the washboard, and ap- ply the suds with a scrubbing brush, scrubbing downward. Dry by stretch- ing between clothes posts in the sun- shine or indoors by the ftre. Take 220 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES care that the line is thoroughly dry- before it is put away. To Avoid Kinks in Clotheslines. — To prevent a clothesline from becom- ing kinked or twisted when taken down, wind it toward you instead of from you. This tends to remove the kinkiness. Care of Clotheslines. — Do not put out a clothesline until the clothes are ready tp be hung out. When they are dry take the line down at once, coil it carefully over the elbows to avoid kinks, knot the coil at one end, and slip it into a clean cotton bag with a draw string at one end to keep it free from dust and dirt. Hang the bag in a clean, dry place. To Hang Out Clothes. — ^The orderly arrangement made by sorting the clothes in the first instance should be observed in hanging them on the line. Hang the contents of the first boiler in one row, those of the second boiler in another, sheets together, towels to- gether, napkins together, and so on. Expose plain white goods and coarser articles to the sun, but hang colored goods and delicate woolen and flannel goods in the shade. Hang up the clothes, especially colored articles, as quickly as possible after they are re- moved from the rinsing water. If small or delicate articles, as laces, crocheted articles, and the like, are boiled in a cotton bag or pillowcase, hang them up in this receptacle to dry. Take down woolens and flan- nels, including blankets, before they are quite dry. While drying, stretch them occasionally as nearly as possi- ble to their proper shape. To Hang Out large Pieces. — Fold large pieces, as tablecloths, sheets, blankets, counterpanes, quilts, and the like, and pin the opposite edges to the line rather than by the middle. The articles will thus be less injured by whipping and present a better appear- ance. Figured counterpanes hung in this way will require no ironing, and if on account of sickness or otherwise it is necessary to save labor, sheets and even tablecloths may be used rough dry. To Take Down Clothes. — When taking clothes from the line place the clothes basket in a chUd's cart or wheelbarrow. Lay a large clean cloth in the bottom, shake the wrinkles from each article, fold it carefully, "Place the Basket in a Child's Cart." and lay all in orderly fashion in the basket. Put the corners of the sheets, tablecloths, towels, and other similar articles exactly together, and it will be found much easier to iron them than if they were thrown into a clothes basket in a disorderly mass. To Prevent Preezing. — ^The excess of soap and washing powders con- taining alkali which may be left in fabrics by careless rinsing wiU in time give white articles a dingy or yellow color. This is very much intensified by freezing. Colored articles will al- ways be more or less faded by freez- ing, and all garments are injured more by one freezing than by several weeks of constant use. To prevent freezing add salt to the rinsing water. This makes tKe clothes less liable to freeze. If the corners especially of towels, napkins, etc., and the edges of sheets and tablecloths be dipped in rather strong salt water they wUl not freeze so tightly, and there will be less dan- ger of their tearing when whipped by the wind or when being removed from the line. Bad Weather. — If wash day is stormy the clothes may be thoroughly WASH DAY 221 wrung dry, rolled up, and laid away in covered tubs or baskets for a, rea- sonable time while waiting for fair weather. This plan is better than to keep them soaking in a tub of water. If the clothes are on the line and it Is necessary, on account of bad weath- er, to take them down before they are dry, it is a good plan to put the clotheshorse in the yard, fold the pieces, and lay them over it, rather than to crowd the wet clothes into the basket. They can then be car- ried on the clotheshorse indoors and placed by the fire. Or clothes may be dried indoors by special drying arrangement in the kitchen or other warm, convenient room. Place hooks or small pulleys on either side of a room opposite one another, about SJ feet apart and at a height a few inches above the head of the tallest member of the family. Stretch the clothesline on these so that it will go back and forth across the room. Instead of allowing the clothes to hang down on the line, stretch them across horizontally, up and out of the way. Put the heaviest articles nearest the stove, and keep a good fire. Open the windows a few inches at the top for ventilation. An entire wash for a family of half a dozen persons can be thus dried without serious inconvenience in an ordinary kitchen. If there is a special room set apart for the laundry, this method will be found equally convenient. To Dry Knit Goods. — Children's knitted underwear, woolen shirts, and other small but expensive articles which tend to shrink when drying, may be kept in shape by drying on frames. These may be purchased or can be readily made by any ingenious mem- ber of the family. They sho^ild be about an inch wider than the gar- ment, made in two parts hinged to- gether, and each having an arm piece with a blunt point projecting at the side. Shut the stretcher by means of the hinges, slip it into the garment while wet, insert the arm pieces, stretch it out flat, button the garment, and hang it up to dry. This not only preserves the shape and prevents shrinking, but gives the article the appearance of being new. CHAPTER VII IRONING DAY BLUING AND SPRINKLING— STARCH AND STARCfflNG— CARE OF IRONING UTENSILS— IRONING— TO DO UP SILKS, RIBBONS. AND WOOLENS— TO DO UP LACES AND CURTAINS— TO MARK AND STORE LINEN BLUIITG AND SFBmSLIirG Bluing. — It is very difficult to rinse clothes quite free from all traces of soap or other washing compounds. The minute quantities of alkali left in the fabrics tend to give white arti- cles a dingy or yellow tinge. The ob- ject of bluing is to correct this. Hence it is customary to add bluing to the last rinsing water for white articles or colored goods that have a white background. For dark colored goods it is also customary to add a liberal supply of bluing to the starch. Some laundresses do not wring from the bluing water table linens and simi- lar articles which they desire to have a fine, clear white, but hang them up dripping in order to deepen their luster. To Make Bluing. — In addition to the various kinds of commercial blu- ing upon the market, the following recipes are recommended: Dissolve 1 ounce of the best soluble Prussian blue powder and 4 ounce of powdered oxalic acid in 1 quart of soft water. Or dissolve 1 package of blue dia- mond dye for cotton in 1 quart of soft water. To prevent lumps, pre- pare this as you would starch. Rub the dry powder into a paste with a little water, add a little more cold water, then add the rest of the water boiling hot. Cool and bottle for use. Sprinkling. — The object of sprin- kling is to give the garments a uniform dampness, to soften wrinkles, and to prevent the iron from scorching. Hence the clothes should be sprinkled slightly and afterwards rolled up and allowed to lie until the moisture has uniformly penetrated all parts of the fabric. Delicate colored goods, flan- nels and other woolens, and fine linens will have a better appearance if ironed on the same day that they were washed than if allowed to become entirely dry before ironing. Colored goods es- pecially should not be sprinkled if it can be avoided. Utensils for Sprinkling. — An ordi- nary brush broom, a chUd's sprinkling "An Ordinary Brush Bromn." can, a tin baking-powder can or glass fruit jar with metal top perforated by holes made with a hammer and 232 IRONING DAY small nails, are all convenient utensils for sprinkling. A small fine-grain sponge and a basin of water should be at hand when ironing. If small spots of sheer goods become dry they should be dampened before ironing, or if a smudge or patch of starch ap- pears it can be thus removed without affecting the rest of the garment. STARCH AND STABGHING To Hake Starch. — Starch is a sub- stance contained in various vegetables, as grains, potatoes, etc. Starch is made from grain by steep- ing it in cold water until it becomes soft. It is then placed in sacks and pressed in a vat with water. The milky juice which is produced by this process is allowed to stand until it becomes clear, when the starch sinks to the bottom in the form of a white powder. Starch may be made from potatoes by grating them in water and strain- ing and squeezing the mass through thin cloth, as cheese cloth, or a suit- able sieve. The liquid is then allowed to stand until the potato starch set- tles at the bottom. The clear liquid from wWch the starch has settled has considerable cleansing properties and is especially useful to clean colored silks, woolens, and other delicate ar- ticles without injury to their color or texture. The coarse fiber of the potato removed by straining may be used in washing heavy colored wool- en articles, as blankets, horse blankets, carriage robes, and the like. These articles should be soaked in water containing salt to set the colors, and afterwards scrubbed with the grated potato fibers and scrubbing brush and water. Starch may be made from potatoes which are too small for domestic use, and a fairly good quality may also be made from frosted potatoes, al- though this last may have a slightly darker color. The starch from frosted potatoes may be improved by adding fresh water 'l after the first clear liquid has been turned off, stirring, and al- lowing it to settle once more, and so continuing imtil the liquid is entirely clear. To Prepare Starch. — The amount of starch to prepare for a given wash- ing depends upon the articles to be starched, and must be determined in each family by experiment. The abil- ity to do up starched linen perfectly is one of the most severe tests of the successful laundress. Hence the im- portance of knowing how to prepare good starch. First mix the required amount of common starch with a small quantity of cold water to the con- sistency of cream. Carefully rub and beat the starch with a spoon to break up all lumps and insure that the particles of starch are evenly wet through. Thin to the consistency of milk with a little more cold water. For thick cooked starch add 8 parts of boiling water to 1 of starch. For thin cooked starch add 16 parts of water to 1 of starch. Pour the water while boiling vigorously in a thin stream, and stir constantly to pre- vent the starch from lumping. Set the starch over the fire and continue to boil it from 3 to 5 minutes, stirring vigorously all the time. If such sub- stances as wax, borax, oil, etc., are used, they should be mixed with the starch while cooking. Bluing should not be added until the starch is cold. Raw starch or that which has been insufSciently cooked will stick to the iron and make much trouble for the laundress. Cooked starch may be thinned by the addition of cold water. Cornstarch. — Common cornstarch, such as is used for making puddings, is preferred by some laundresses in- stead of the ordinary laundry starch. It is about as cheap and in the opinion of many gives a finer gloss and more finished appearance to deli- cate starched articles. Try this some time when the laundry starch is out and see how you like it. A mix- ture of the two kinds is also much favored. Starch with Wax. — For white cuffs, collars, and shirt bosoms melt with gentle heat white wax or a mixture 224 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES of equal parts of white wax and sper- maceti or a mixture of 1 part of white wax to 2 parts of spermaceti, as pre- ferred, and stir into ordinary starch while boiling. Use a lump of wax about the size of a walnut to a quart of cooked starch, or estimate the amount of wax in the proportion of l^g^ to J of the bulk of dry starch re- quired for the garments. Starch with Borax. — ^Add 1 table- spoonful of borax to each pint of cooked starch while boiling. This makes the starch go farther by lessen- ing the amount that adheres to each garment. It increases the gloss with- out giving additional stiffness and tends to prevent the irons from stick- ing. Or add 1 teaspoonful of borax to 1 pint of uncooked starch for garments requiring stiffness. Or mix 1 teaspoonful of borax and 2 tablespoonfuls of dry starch. Rub carefully in a small quantity of cold water and add enough to make IJ cupfuls. Starch with Salt. — Add 1 teaspoon- ful of table salt to 1 pint of cooked or uncooked starch. This prevents the starch from being whipped out oi the garments by the wind when drying, and also from freezing in severely cold weather. Or add 1 teaspoonful of Epsom salts to each bowl of cooked starch while boiling. This will add stiff'ness and tend to prevent the articles from being scorched by hot irons. Starch with Soap. — Make the boil- ing water in which starch is cooked slightly soapy with pure castile or other neutral white soap. This will assist in producing a gloss and will also prevent the irons from sticking. Starch with Gum Arabic. — Prepare a solution of gum arable by putting about 2 oimces of the white gum fine- ly powdered in a glass bottle or quart fruit jar and pouring over it 1 pint of boiling water. Cork tightly and shake until the powder is dissolved. After 24 hours strain through cheese cloth and preserve the clear gum wa- ter for use. Add 1 tablespoonful to each pint of cooked starch while boil- ing. This is especially useful for fine dress goods, either white or colored, as lawns, muslins, calicoes, and the like, giving them much of the body and appearance of new material. Less of the gum water may be used for the finished materials, as muslins, and more may be added for cuffs, collars, and shirt cuffs to increase the stiff- ness and impart a gloss. Starch with Sugar. — Add a tea- spoonful of granulated sugar to each pint of starch while boiling. This as- sists in giving the so-called domestic finish. Starch with Stearin. — Add a tea- spoonful of stearin to each pint of starch when boiling. This substance with the addition of bluing is sold under the name of " starch luster " at a much higher price than the stearin itself costs, and is no better. Starch with Lard. — Add half a tea- spoonful of lard or butter to each quart of cooked starch when boiling. This helps to give the soft or domes- tic finish, and prevents the irons from sticking. Additions to Starch. — Among the various substances added to starch for different purposes are wax, borax, salt, soap, lard, sugar, gum arable, glue, stearin, and glycerin. Borax makes the starch more fluid, so that it goes farther, and eilso increases the gloss. Salt prevents the starch from freezing in garments; wax and gum arable and stearin increase the gloss and give additional stiffness, and soap and sugar improve the gloss. These sub- stances may also be mixed together according to various special recipes. Special Becipes for Starch. — Melt together with gentle heat white wax, 3 ounces; spermaceti, 3 ounces; borax, J pound; gum tragacanth, IJ ounces. Add 1 teaspoonful of the mixture to 1 pint of cooked starch while boU- ing. Or, to prevent irons from sticking, rub J teaspoonful of lard and 1 tea- spoonful of salt into the dry starch, and proceed as with ordinary cooked starch. lEONING DAY Or mix 1 teaspoonful of white soap run through a grater with 1 pint of starch while boiling. Or mdt with gentle heat 1 ounce of isinglass, 1 ounce of borax, 1 tea- spoonful of white glue, and 2 tea- spoonfuls of white of egg. Stir into 2 quarts of cooked starch while boil- ing. This will give shirt bosoms a high polish. Starch with Soda. — Add J teaspoon- ful of baking soda to 1 pint of cooked starch when boiling. This prevents the starch from whipping out of garments on the line, and also assists in giving finer finish. To Apply Starch. — Strain the hot starch through a piece of cheese cloth and use while it is still warm. Select first the articles that require the most stiffness, as shirt bosoms, collars, and cuffs. A portion of the starch of course adheres to each, so that it be- comes thinner by using. Starched clothes such as skirts, etc., should never be stiff enough to rattle. The garments to be starched should be nearly dry. Immerse them or such part of them as should be starched in the thick starch, and rub between the hands to work the starch thoroughly into their texture. Remove from the starch, squeeze out the excess, and rub once more with the hands to distribute the starch evenly through the mate- rial. If this is not done the surface will not iron smoothly. Dry the arti- cles, sprinkle them, spread them on a clean white cloth, and roll them up in bundles so that the dampness will be evenly distributed before ironing. To Starch Colored Clothes. — Divide the starch, set apart the required amount for colored clothes, and add bluing sufficient to make the starch quite blue. Use a liberal supply of bluing for blacks and dark colors, but not so much for light garments, es- pecially pink. This will prevent white patches of starch from appearing on dark garments. Or dip black or colored goods, as lawns and calicoes, in sweet or sour milk and use no starch. Milk alone will give the desired stiffness. Or, for delicate colored goods, use a simple solution of giun arable in- stead of starch. Or rinse in dilute bran water or rice water instead of starch. To Starch White Dress Goods. — Thin white dress goods, as white waists and summer gowns, may be starched with cold raw starch. Dry without starching. Dissolve a heap- ing tablespoonful of starch in suf- ficient water to immerse the garment, dip it into the starch until saturated, rinse in cold water, wring out, roll up in a dry cloth, and iron half an hour later. Or dry the garments, dip a clean muslin cloth into raw starch, and lay over them long enough to dampen them. After a few minutes press them with a hot iron. For delicate lawns and similar fab- rics use a solution of gum arable di- luted to give the stiffness required. C&SE OF IBONIXG TTTHITSIIS Ironing TTtensils. — Various im- proved implements and machines have "An Ironing Machine for Domestic Use." been perfected for ironing, but the old-fashioned flatiron heated on the £S6 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES range is still a well-nigh universal favorite. Mangles, or large heated cylinders revolving under pressure for ironing gaiments, have been in general use in laundries for many years, to- gether with polishing machines and similar appliances. But until quite recently there has not been upon the market a satisfactory ironing machine suitable for domestic use. Such ma- chines can now be obtained, and they are to be recommended for large fam- ilies who can afford them. The denatured alcohol flatiron is a cheap, practical, and serviceable, device. The electric flatiron is an ideal utensil in homes that are supplied with electricity. The patented flatiron which has a removable wooden handle is a great improvement over the old-fashioned solid iron which requires the use of cloth or asbestos holders. The asbestos flatiron is an imple- ment that is especially recommended. To do fine ironing it is necessary to have several kinds of irons. For shirt bosoms, collars, and cuffs a ribbed or other polishing iron is necessary. Ruf- fles will be improved by the use of a fluting iron. The puff iron for fine tucks, puffy sleeves, and other elabo- rate work is especially useful. This iron is attached to a standard and the cloth is passed through it. It may be heated at the ordinary range. Some persons are satisfied with the cold mangle, especially for table lin- ens, linen sheets, and other linen pieces, on the theory that heat has a ten- dency to deteriorate the linen and also to give it a yeUow tinge, but ironing by means of hot irons is stai the custom. A toy flatiron such as is sold for children is not only useful in the hands of a child for ironing dolls' clothes as a lesson in domestic economy, but is also very convenient to the laundress for tucks, fluting, and other difficult parts of dresses and similar garments. Such an iron may be packed in a, trunk and taken on vacation trips. It will be found most useful in hotels. where it can be heated over the gas or by means of a small alcohol lamp, and used for doing up handkerchiefs, laces, ribbons, and other small articles, both " a. Device for Heating Flatirons. b. Holder, c. Emery-cloth Board, d. Wax. e. Stand." as a measure of economy and also to prevent their being deteriorated by careless treatment in the laundry. To Prevent Rust on Irons. — If irons are exposed to moisture or stored away for a time, brush or rub them when warm with a mixture of vaseline and sweet oil. Lard or vaseline alone may be used for this purpose. These substances may be removed by wash- ing the iron in good soapsuds when ready for use. To Keep Flatirons Clean. — In small apartments it is often convenient to store the flatirons on the back of the range. To keep them free from grease and dirt take a conunon pasteboard shoe box or other box of convenient shape and size, and cover with sheet asbestos glued on. Keep the irons in this, and they will be clean, dry, and always handy. Care of Irons. — Care must be taken to prevent the roughening of irons from starch or other sticky substance adhering to them' and burning on. This is especially likely to happen if raw or partiy cooked starch is used. To prevent this, tack a piece of very fine sandpaper on the ironing board and rub the iron on it each time be- fore returning to the fire. Or use bath brick, dry salt, or pow- dered pumice stone spread on a smooth surface, with or without sand- paper. Or fill a cheese-cloth bag with pow- dered pumice stone and rub the iron on this. IRONING DAY 227 Starch may be prevented from stick- ing to the iron by the use of beeswax, paraffin, wax paper, or kerosene. To use beeswax, put it in a little bag of cloth or between two pieces of paper, and attach to the ironing board. Rub the iron over this. Save the paraffin on the tops of jars of jelly, melt up, and pour into a mold to cool. Put this in a cloth bag and use the same as beeswax. Or save the wax papers that come in cracker boxes or the inside linings of laundry soap, and rub the irons on these. Or have at hand a cloth saturated with kerosene, and rub the iron over this. These methods all tend to make the ironing easier by lessening the friction and also keep the iron clean and give polish to the fabrics. Cautions. — Never use irons for cracking nuts or hammering nails. Never allow them to become red hot. They do not retain the heat equally throughout afterwards and will al- ways be rough. Do not keep them on the stove when not in use without pro- tecting them from the heat by as- bestos. To Heat Irons. — Irons wiU heat more quickly and with less fuel and will keep hot longer if an iron or tin pan is turned over them while heating. A sheet-iron pan, like a bread pan, is best for this purpose, but a deep dripping pan, frying pan, or solid tin pan may be used. ' This will be found especially important in summer, when a hot fire is unbear- able. When gas is used, if a pan is turned over the flatirons and a tea- kettle placed on top, hot water also may be had with the use of a single burner. To Test the Heat of Irons. — ^The iron is hotter when a drop of water will run along the surface than when it is immediately evaporated. A very hot iron will form a cushion of steam which will keep the drop from the surface. Hence if a drop of water sticks and immediately evaporates, the iron is not sufficiently hot for some purposes. Holders for Irons. — A thin sheet of asbestos between two folds of cloth makes the best holder for flatirons. A square piece of leather, cut from the top of an old boot and put be- tween two thicknesses of cloth, is con- venient and comfortable. These hold- ers may be bound with bratd. To Hang Up an Ironing Board. — Put screw eyes on the end of the iron- ing board so that it can be hung from nails on the wall or the inside of pantry doors. Covers for Ironing Boards. — Make two or three covers for the ironing board to fit tightly when drawn on, like a pillowcase. When one is soiled another may be substituted. The quickness and convenience with which these may be changed will soon pay for the labor of making them. A somewhat looser calico bag to slip over the board when not in use will keep it clean. Old sheets and dis- carded wrappers will furnish materials for these covers. To Arrange the Ironing Board. — Fix two heavy screw eyes in the broad end of an ironing board and attach to these a piece of strong picture wire the same as if you intended to hang the ironing board like a picture upon "Leaves the End Unobstructed." the wall. Screw into the top of the baseboard, high enough from the floor to be out of the way of mops and brooms, two strong screw hooks. Now draw a stand or narrow table oppo- 228 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVEEIES site these screw hooks in such a way that the broad end of the ironing board may rest upon it while the nar- row end projects into the room. In this position the ironing board should about balance, but of course the pres- sure of the iron on the unsupported end would cause it to tip. Now catch the wire guys attached to the broad end of the ironing board over the two screw hooks in the baseboard. These will prevent the narrow end of the board from tipping, and leave it im- obstructed, so that skirts, shirts, and other similar articles may be slipped over it conveniently. IBOITIKG To Iron Shirts. — Starch the shirt bosoms, collars, and cuffs in cooked starch containing also wax or lard or other siniilar substance. The addition of gum arable wiU increase the stiff- ness. First use the common iron in the usual way, making the surface smooth, but without polishing. Iron first the back and sleeves, next the collar and bosom, last the front. This dull or domestic finish, as it is called, is preferred by many persons to a high polish, but if the latter is de- sired use a smooth hard-wood board covered rather thickly with cloth on one side, but not on the other. First use the padded side of the board, ironing the bosom smooth, then turn the board, lay the bosom upon the hard wood, take the polishing iron, and polish by rubbing vigorously cross- wise. A good polishing iron should weigh between 6 and 7 pounds and have a rounded edge at the heel. The iron is not laid down flat, but only the edge of the heel is used to give the polish. Keep the iron very hot and dampen the bosom slightly before using it by brushing with a damp cloth or sponge. If the bosom rises in wavelike blisters, dampen it slightly and go over it again. It requires a little care to use a polishing iron, but with experience any laundress can give as good a polish as can be produced in a steam laundry. A greater finish can be obtained by laying over the bosom a cloth dipped in starch just before the polishing iron is applied. To Iron Colored Goods. — Colored goods should be ironed, when possible, before they are quite dry. They should not, as a rule, be sprinkled nor allowed to lie over night. The iron should be allowed to cool slightly, as delicate colors, especially pinks and greens, will frequently fade as soon as they are touched by a hot iron. The pink may turn to purple and the green to blue. If, however, colored goods cannot be ironed the day they are washed, they should not be allowed to lie over night in a wet condition, but should first be thoroughly dried and then slightly dampened just before iron- ing by roUing them in a damp cloth and allowing them to stand for fif- teen or twenty minutes. Press colored goods on the wrong side, especially the collars and cuffs. Iron on the right side no more than is absolutely necessary to take out the wrinkles. To Iron Blacls; Sateen and Farmer's Satin, — Use no starch. Iron on the wrong side. To Iron Taney Work. — Press rib- bons, lace, and embroidery on the wrong side, and iron delicate articles through a piece of linen. For colored silks and ribbons, allow the iron to cool slightly as with any other col- ored goods. To Iron linen. — ^The appearance of linen will be improved if it is ironed the same day it is washed and with- out hanging out to dry. Rinse thor- oughly, wring dry, and roll the Unen articles in a dry sheet. Let them lie for a time and iron dry with a hot iron. This saves the wear on fine linen of whipping on a clothesline, and gives an additional stiffness and luster, es- pecially to cheap linens and well-worn articles. To Do IJp Handkerchiefs. — ^To save ironing, spread the handkerchief wet from rinsing water on a clean pane of glass or mirror. When dry, fold and lay away. Guests at summer IRONING DAY 229 hotels and persons who are boarding will find this plan very convenient. It is especially desirable for fine linen and delicate lace handkerchiefs, to save the wear and tear of the laun- dry. Ironing Hints. — Table linen and handkerchiefs frequently show wear where the customary folds have been ironed in. To save wear press the arti- cle all over until perfectly dry, vrithout folding. Then fold and press the folds lightly with a hot iron. The appear- ance will be the same as if the folds had been ironed separately, but the articles will wear longer. Large tablecloths that are awkward to manage without folding may be rolled upon curtain poles as fast as they are ironed. When the entire cloth has been ironed it may be unrolled and folded with a light pressure. The clothes wringer will smooth sheets, towels, pillowcases, and the like sufficiently vnthout ironing, and upon occasion these articles may be folded and put away rough dry. Give handkerchiefs one fold less than is customary, leaving them oblong in- stead of square. The economy of time is small, but the handkerchiefs lie more conveniently in the drawer. To Iron Embroidery. — Embroidered articles, as doilies, shirt waists, and the like, Hamburg trinunings, and other goods of similar texture may be ironed over a Turkish towel. This method raises the pattern clearly and beautifully. It may also be used for napkins, handkerchiefs, and table- cloths. The towel yields slightly, less- ening the labor of ironing, and the process adds to the appearance of the article. To Take Down Clothes. — Use care in wringing clothes and hanging them on the line. Lift tablecloths and sim- ilar large pieces by the middle from the last rinsing water, so as to straight- en out the selvage edge, and wring by hand. Hang these carefully on the line so that they will dry straight and not draw on the bias. In hanging clothes, straighten the collars, raise the bands, and open the sleeves. Fold carefully when taken from the line, or, if too cold to fold outdoors, do so as soon as they are brought into the house and before the wrinkles caused by packing them in the basket have become set. In warm weather spread sheets, towels, and the like upon the tall grass. They will need very little pressing, and will be bleached by the sun. TO DO UP SILKS, EIBBOXS, AND WOOLENS To Iron Silks.— Lift silks from the rinsing water, shake and snap them to remove as much water as possible without squeezing or wringing, and smooth them out on pieces of old cot- ton cloth or towels. Roll them up in these and iron as soon as possible without drying. Smooth pieces out while wet on the ironing board, lay over them a piece of thin white mus- lin, and iron on the wrong side with a moderate iron to prevent smutting. Now remove the cloth, iron perfectly dry on the wrong side, and smooth slightly, if desired, on the face with a warm, not hot, iron. The whole proc- ess of washing and ironing should be done as quickly as possible after the silk is wet, as the colors may be affected by lying in that condition. To Iron Colored Silks. — Like other colored goods silk should not be al- lowed to dry, but should be ironed while still damp with a warm, not hot, iron. Place between two cloths and iron on the wrong side. To Do Up Bibbons. — Wash same as other colored silks, and if stiffness is required, rinse in weak soapsuds con- taining a small amount of gum^ arable. Now roll the ribbon about a glass bottle, or wind about a small rolling- pin, smoothing carefully, and dry in the shade. Or smooth them out, face down, upon a piece of varnished wood. When dry they will require no ironing. To Remove Wrinkles from Silk. — Wrinkled or creased ribbons and silks may be restored by laying them on a smooth surface and sponging them HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES evenly with a sponge moistened in a weak solution of gum arabic. Smooth out while wet on a polished flat sur- face of wood, or roll about a rolling- pin and dry in the shade. Iron be- tween two pieces of cloth, pressing on the wrong side with a warm, not hot, iron. To Store Away Silks. — Do not wrap silks in white paper. The chloride of lime used to bleach the paper will at- tack the colors of the silk. To Iron Flannel and Woolen Goods. — Iron flannels and woolens the same day they are washed, if possible, and before they become quite dry. Take from the line when stUl damp, roll up in a dry cloth, and press on the wrong side with an iron not too hot. If they become dry they should be damp- ened slightly by rolling up in a damp cloth to await their turn. To Iron Blankets. — Iron blankets before they are quite dry, and air thoroughly before storing away. TO DO UP LACES AND CTJBTAI17S To Starch Laces. — Good lace does not require starching. Enough white sugar dissolved in the last rinsing water to make it slightly sweet should give it the required stiffness. Or boil 4 ounces of rice in 1 quart of water until the kernels break up. Strain through cheese cloth and dip the laces in the clear rice water. Or use a thin solution of gum arabic. Or mix 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch or wheat starch with cold water to the consistency of cream, beating and rub- bing until all is wet evenly. Dilute to consistency of milk vnth cold water, add S or 6 drops of gum arabic, and thin with boiling water until nearly transparent. Boil for 6 or 6 minutes until well cooked. The poorer the lace the more stiffness will be required. Hence do not dilute too much for poor laces. To Tint Laces. — For an 6cru tint add black coffee or powdered saffron to the rinsing water. Or add tea to give a stronger shade. Experiment with a small sample of the goods, add- ing a little more color at a time until the right shade is obtained. To Iron laces. — If laces are basted on cloth, and the cloth is thoroughly stretched, or if they are carefully wound about a bottle and stitched, they may not require any ironing. Lace wound about a bottle may be dipped into very thin starch or gum- arabic water without being removed, and may not need any ironing. Lace handkerchiefs may be pulled into shape wWle wet and carefully laid on a pane of glass, wrinkles being all smoothed out. When dry they will be ready for use. Or dry small lace articles between two pieces of clean white blotting paper under a weight, with or with- out ironing. When starch is used, do not allow laces to dry, but roll them in a dry towel for half an hour or more, and press while stiU damp, Iron on the wrong side over a Turk-, ish towel to bring up the pattern, protecting the articles from the iron with a piece of muslin or other thin white cloth. Use a warm, not hot, iron. Ironing pieces while damp great- ly improves their appearance; ironing on a soft, rough surface both protecta them and brings up the pattern, and ironing through a thin cloth makes it possible to bring out the points and pattern of the lace with the point of the iron without injury. New em- broideries should be washed and ironed before using. To Bemove Wrinkles. — If lace be- comes dry before ironing, or if it is desired to remove the wrinkles from clean lace without washing, hold it over the steam of the teakettle or a basin of steaming water until thor- oughly moistened. While damp press it under a weight, with or without blotters, or iron it as above suggested. To Starch Curtains. — Do not use much starch for lace curtains. This is a common mistake when curtains are done up at home. It is contrary to the essential delicacy of lace to make it stiff with starch. Moreover, the sun will rot lace which contains IRONING DAY 231 too much starch or other stiffening substances. Only the coarsest kind of lace can stand stiffening. To Do Up Curtains. — Starch cur- tains the same as other laces with a thin boiled cornstarch or wheat starch containing a solution of gum arable, and stretch them on suitable frames or otherwise to dry. If they are stretched properly, they will require no ironing or they may be pressed slightly when dry. To Iron Curtains. — ^Lay the curtains while still damp on a folded flannel blanket and press on the wrong side with irons as hot as possible without scorching. This method brings out raised figures and designs. To Prevent Scorch. — ^Wipe the iron on a cloth wet with kerosene. To Remove Scorch. — Linen articles and other white goods slightly scorched by hot irons may be restored, if the iibers have not been destroyed, by simply exposing them to the heat of the sun or, on dark days, to the heat from an open oven. Moisten them at intervals by sponging lightly with clear water. If the stains are deeper, rub chlorine water into the spot with a sponge or linen rag. Or run two onions through a meat cutter, squeeze out the juice through cheese cloth, and mix with half a pint of vinegar. Heat the mixture to a boil, and add a piece of hard white soap the size of an English walnut and two or three ounces of fuller's earth. Boil five minutes, cool, and pour over the scorched linen. Let it dry on, and afterwards remove by washing. Repeat if necessary. TO MAEE AND STOSE LINEX Linen Closet. — A special closet or wardrobe for linen is a great con- venience. If this is not possible, and linen must be packed in chests or bureau drawers, the various articles will lie one upon another so that it is difScult to keep them in proper order. The shelves of the linen closet should be just wide enough apart to admit of piles of a dozen articles of each sort. and just deep enough to admit one row of articles. Numerous shallow shelves relatively close together make a more convenient arrangement than deeper shelves wider apart. A little care devoted to making the shelves tight, polishing them, and coating them with enamel paint or varnish to give them a smooth and shining surface will be more than compen- sated for by the beautiful appear- ance of the snowy linen reflected upon the shelves and the ease with which they may be kept in perfect order. Comparatively few persons can af- ford a surplus of fine linen, but when possible, articles should be bought in half dozen or dozen lots and used in regular rotation. All fabrics will wear better if not used continually, but al- lowed to rest at intervals. Place linen on the shelves in regu- lar piles of one dozen each, and when it comes from the laundry sort it carefully and place the articles that have been just laundered at the bot- tom of the piles so that they will be used in regular rotation. It will as- sist you to do this and also to keep account of linen if the articles are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, and so on, and piled in that way. As linen and other articles are often mislaid or stolen when sent to laundries, and sometimes taken from the line or blown away when spread on the grass to bleach, it is advisable to make an inventory of the contents of the linen closet, a copy of which may be fastened with thumb tacks to the back of the closet door, and checked up each time the laundered articles are stored away. This will also assist in the preparation of a shopping list when articles that are worn require to be replaced. While the term " linen closet " is used (and every housewife knows the good qualities of linen and would be glad to use it exclusively for many purposes), the same remarks apply to the disposition of cotton sheets, pil- lowcases, etc. These, if of good qual- ity and well laundered, present al- 232 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES most as attractive an appearance as the linen itself, and will equally re- pay the same care and attention. A separate place should be set apart for those articles which have become worn past their original uses, and they should be laundered and stored in the linen closet until opportunity offers for making them up into covers for the ironing board, dishcloths, dish towels, and the many other uses men- tioned elsewhere. Old linen is es- pecially valuable for many purposes, and the discarded articles should be carefully stored in an orderly fashion instead of being thrust, as is too often the case, helter-skelter into the com- mon ragbag. When linen has been properly laun- dered, aired, and stored in the linen closet, nothing is required for the fur- ther care of articles in ordinary use except to preserve them from damp- ness and insects. The various essen- tial oils and other perfume-bearing substances will assist in preserving linen from the attacks of insects. The use of thyme, mint, and lavender for this purpose by good housekeepers in colonial days and in England is pro- verbial. Bags containing any or all of the following may be employed for this purpose: Spices, as powdered cloves, mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Flowers of any sort, dried and mixed with spices. Odorous leaves, as mint, balm, south- ernwood, laurel, geranium, sweet mar- joram, rosemary, hyssop, and orig- anum. Roots, as orris and angelica. Perfumed woods, as sandalwood, rosewood, cassia, sassafras, rhodium. Anjmal perfumes, as ambergris, musk, and civet. Or essential oils extracted from any of these. To Store linens. — If linen articles are not in constant use they should be wrapped in brovni, blue, or other dark-colored paper, as the bleaching powder and other forms of chlorine used in bleaching white and light-col- ored papers have a tendency to turn linen articles yellow, and so does ex- posure to air and simlight. To Prepare Linen for the Wash.— It will be found a matter of economy to examine the linen before it goes to the laundry and remove all stains, and also mend bracks, tears, and worn places before the articles are washed. Otherwise they may catch on the washboard or in the washing machine, or be whipped by the wind, caught by a flatiron, or otherwise made larger than is necessary. Here, as elsewhere, " a stitch in time saves nine." Marking linen. — A good stamping outfit may be obtained very cheaply and linen may be stamped with initials that can afterwards be worked over with embroidery. Large Gothic let- ters appear to be most approved for this purpose. Or, by the use of a few cents' worth of carbon paper, which may be ob- tained of any stationer, linen may be stamped by tracing over any desired pattern. A paper pattern may be used for this purpose, or one article may be sent away to be marked and the initial' afterwards transferred to the others by tracing over with car- bon. Before starting to work on any stamped linen, take a copy of the de- sign on a piece of paper for dupli- cates, which may then be transferred, at very small expense of time and trouble, by means of carbon paper to other articles. Or plain articles may be marked by tracing the initial with a soft lead pencil and going over the outline with the sewing machine, using any color of silk thread that may be desired. Or apply marking ink with a steel pen or fine camel's-hair brush. For recipe, see under " Ink " elsewhere in this volume. To Hem Table Linen. — Draw a thread at either end and cut straight across. Turn the hem through the narrow hemmer of an unthreaded sew- ing machine. This makes a narrower and more even hem than can be turned by hand. The difficulty of drawing the thread IRONING DAY from linen is much lessened if a piece of castile or other hard white soap is first rubbed carefully over the threads. Tablecloth Economics. — If a table- cloth wears around the edge by rub- bing against the table, draw threads on either side of the worn place, cut straight across, and sew together with a perfectly flat, even seam. This wiU hardly be noticed, and the tablecloth will be almost like new. When buying new tablecloths get a half yard extra material and from time to time take a narrow strip off one of the ends. This will bring the creases in different places and pre- vent the cloth from wearing where it is creased in the laundry. Ravelings taken from these strips will be found the best material with which to darn frayed places. When a tablecloth is past its proper use it is still available for many pur- poses. The whole parts will make an excellent bread cloth and one or more tray cloths or napkins suitable for lunches and picnics, or for use par- ticularly in the fruit season, when the best napkins often receive peach and other fruit stains that are so difficult to remove. The small pieces make the • best of silver polishers, as they are so soft that they will not scratch the finest silver. Or figured centerpieces may some- times be embroidered, as for stamped linen, and made to do duty as doilies and lunch cloths. Toweling. — Raw linen towels can be purchased at surprisingly low prices, and under proper care may be perfectly bleached in the laundry. Or remnants of tablecloth damask may be picked up, cut to the proper length, and hemstitched all around, or fin- ished in drawn work and decorated with embroidered initials. For ordi- nary uses nothing is more satisfactory than wash crash toweUng, which wears well, has a good appearance, and saves the wear of linen towels. CHAPTER VIII SEWING AND MENDING DAY THE SEWING ROOM— USE AND CARE OF SEWING MACHINE— SEW- ING-ROOM CONVENIENCES— MENDING— RENOVATING— MAKING OVER— FANCY WORK In the regular routine of weekly- work it is a good plan to set aside a day in which all garments may be mended, altered, or made over. The day following ironing day is usually most convenient. Then the piles of stockings that are to be darned, and any other articles from the weekly wash that may require a " stitch in time," can be added to the other mending that has accumulated during the week, and the whole disposed of. THE SEWIN& BOOM The woman who has a room in her house which can be set apart solely as a sewing room knows not how to value her blessing. She doesn't probably appreciate the importance of such a "Set Apart as a Sewing Room." room until she comes into possession of it; then she wonders how she ever lived without it. Where there are many children this need is all the greater. The sewing room is not necessarily a large room, but it is im- portant that there be good light so that the eyesight may not suffer by even the finest work. It is sometimes impossible to set aside a small room that is light. In this case, if the house contains a dark room op the upper floor it may be used by pro- viding a skylight, which may be done at small cost. These inside dark rooms are often used as storerooms, and if large, may be partitioned off so that a portion may still be so employed. If possible the sewing room should be provided with closets. One of these should be fiUed with shelves on which to place boxes of various sizes, small boxes on the upper shelves, and large boxes on the lower ones. Closet with Shelves. — ^A good sew- ing-room closet may be devised as fol- lows: have one broad top shelf which holds a collection of strong boxes, such as shirt, hat, suit, collar, and shoe boxes, as receptacles for all the hundred-and-one things employed in sewing. A light framework may be formed of a few pieces of wood so arranged as to support the upper boxes, permitting the lower ones to be withdrawn easily. Each box should be labeled. Shoe boxes are useful for rolls of tape, whalebones, and similar articles. One box should contain white hooks and eyes and another black ones. Buttons may be put in another small box. Colored sewing silks should have a separate box from buttonhole twist, and the various spools of black, white, and colored thread should have 234 SEWING AND MENDING DAY 235 a box by themselves. Other boxes should be labeled for lace, embroid- ery, white goods, remnants, canvas, bones and casings, shields, linings, vel- vets, silks, etc. Have for the lace box a. large box labeled "Laces," within which are several smaller ones labeled edging, Honiton, motifs, insertion, beading, etc. The button box may also contain a collection of smaller boxes, each holding sets of buttons, with one button fastened to the cover, to indicate its contents. This plan will prove a great time-saver to anyone in the family who sews or mends. Shopping list. — ^When any item is "out" it should be immediately put on the shopping list. A pad for this purpose tacked to the closet door, with pencil attached, will prove a great convenience. When the shopper of the family goes to the city her list is then always ready. In this closet a box containing shoe buttons, cords, thread, needles (or the cord with needles attached), should also find its place. Darning Cotton, Needles, etc. — ^A convenient receptacle for various col- ored darning cottons, darning needles, mending balls, etc., is a suitable box. It is a good idea also to drop a cheap thimble into the darning box. Closet for Unfinished Garments.— A second closet is desirable in the sewing room, which should be provided with hooks on which to hang various dresses, coats, and other articles dur- ing their construction. If it is possi- ble to provide the room with a bureau or chest of drawers it will be found a most convenient receptacle for all the little rolls of left-over material that are of great value on mending day. Bureau in the Sewing Boom. — If the family is not large, each mem- ber may have his or her own " piece drawer." Should the family be very large and the number of drawers in- sufficient, bags of outing flannel, cre- tonne, or similar material may be pro- vided as a supplement, showing the name of each person on the outside. and these may be hung below the shelves in the closet. An Economical Closet. — If neces- sary a closet may be constructed in the sewing room by nailing shelves to the wall in one corner over which a curtain may be hung. A second closet may be made by nailing to the wall a strip of wood bearing hooks, upon which to hang tmfinished garments. A curtain may also be used to protect these. Or, instead of shelves built in the corner, a large dry-goods box may be fitted with shelves, and the top and sides covered with green or other col- ored oilcloth. Place a rod across the front from which may depend a cur- tain of flowered silkoUne or any other preferred material to hide the accu- mulation of sewing. The articles to be repaired should be placed on one shelf, the material to be made up on another, and the sewing basket and various boxes on a third shelf. If the sewing-room closet is arranged ac- cording to the above suggestions it is always possible to find the needed scrap of lace, silk, or dress furnishing upon a moment's notice. TTSE ANI) CABE OF SEWING MACHINE The Sewing Machine. — The position that is to be ocupied by the sewing machine should be where the light is the best in the room. It is preferable that the light fall at the left-hand side of the worker. The woman who uses the sewing machine should know how to treat it if she wishes her machine to always run light, and to thus save herself from backaches. Care of the Sewing Machine. — If a machine runs hard, one of the best remedies is to give it a generous kero- sene or gasoline bath. Most of the linty accumulations are caught by the feed. These may be easily reached by removing both the slides and the feed plate, which is held in place by a sin- gle screw. After these parts are re- moved slip off the plate, turn back the head of the machine with a small HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES pointed implement, and with a soft cloth carefully remove the particles of dirt. To Glean with Kerosene. — If the machine runs hard oil it generously with kerosene, using from a half pint to a pint. Run it rapidly for a few minutes, then with a piece of new cheese cloth carefully rub off the kero- sene and oil again with machine oil. The kerosene cuts away the gummed oil, and the machine oil lubricates the parts. To Clean with Gasoline. — Nothing is better than gasoline to limber up a sewing machine. Apply the gasoline as above recommended for kerosene, after which carefully rub off and ap- ply machine oil. To Oil a Sewing Uachine. — It is surprising that some machines wiU sew at all, they are so seldom oiled or cleaned. Put a few drops of oil in all the oil holes, run the machine rapidly, wipe off all surplus oil outside the oil holes, and the machine is ready for use. Two minutes will suffice for the operation. Sewing-machine Troubles. — The prevailing difficulty in using sewing machines is the breaking of the thread. Other disarrangements seem easy to adjust, even to a person who has used a machine but a few weeks or perhaps days. The breaking, which is mostly with the upper thread, may be caused by an imperfect adjustment of the tension; this is usually the case with new machines. But with those that have been in use several months the breaking (if the tension is right) is produced by the threads drawing into the guides, so that when a swelled place in the thread cannot pass the narrow groove, which is the exact width of the thread, it breaks. This break takes place anywhere from the point of the needle back to the grooved guide. As the breakage is usually near the needle, the real cause is gen- erally overlooked. Many machines are laid aside on account of this continual breaking when, if the cause had been understood, the guide holes might have been smoothed with a small file and the trouble ended. If a sewing machine gets into a " mood " and refuses to budge, no matter what the stuff is nor how it is presented, thick or thin, single or double, lay a slip of paper each side the seam, being careful to put it un- der the presser foot, and sew with an even, steady force. The paper can be removed after sewing. SEWING-BOOU CONVENIENCES A gas or oil stove to heat irons for pressing is an added convenience to the sewing room. Two irons should be kept in the sewing room so as not to interfere with the laundry irons. A Skirt Board and a Narrow Sleeve Board are also necessities. When not in use, the closet in which unfinished garments are hung is a handy place for keeping all such conveniences. The Worktable. — 'A convenient cut- ting table is made with leaves that may be dropped when the cutting is finished, and should be as large as the size of the room will allow. If the room is small, a folding table a yard long may take the place of the larger one. A Handy Sewing Table may be made by using the legs of an old ordi- nary sewing table. Or have the legs made to allow for a top 8 feet long by 3 feet wide. The top should consist of two pieces of equal length with a. difference of J of an inch in thickness, the thinner piece to be built up with felt or blotting paper to match the thicker, thus mak- ing the table half felt covered and half bare wood. All pressing can then be done on the felt without leav- ing unsightly marks. All work re- quiring a hard surface may be done on the plain uncovered wood, and the length of the table allows for cut- ting garments of any dimensions. The felt keeps the materials from slipping, as they wiU do on a smooth table. The Workbasket.— The workbasket should be equipped with several pairs SEWING AND MENDING DAY 237 of sharp scissors, needles of various sizes for both fine and coarse work, and thread of different numbers and colors. Work cannot be done in a. creditable manner unless one is in pos- session of the needful tools. A well-equipped sewing room takes away much of the drudgery of mend- ing day. During the week articles will have accumulated in the sewing basket to be mended or renovated, and the many conveniences of the sew- ing room will come into play during the weekly process of putting the various family garments in repair. Patterns. — Patterns may be in de- mand at any moment, hence a con- venient holder should be provided. This may be made of a stout, short box divided into compartments, one for each member of the family. The compartments are made by gluing in pieces of cardboard. Arrange the pat- terns on their sides so that they may be examined like a card index without removing the box. Patterns should be gone over once or twice a year in order to discard those that have gone out of fashion, and hence will not be used again. When discarding pat- terns, those made of soft paper should not be thrown away, as they are use- ful for shaving paper, polishing mir- rors, glass, silver, etc. Or patterns may be kept intact by a series of pockets made in the fol- lowing manner: take two yards of any suitable goods such as gingham or cretonne; tear it in half; cut one yard into strips 9 inches wide, hem- ming one edge; stitch the strips lengthwise, dividing the whole into five strips, making four 6 inches wide and th? fifth 3 inches wide. Sew these strips to the remaining yard, thus making sixteen pockets 9 by 6 inches, and three pockets 9 by 3 inches. Label the large pockets shirt waists, shirts, dresses, aprons, etc. The labeling may be done with India ink. A convenient place for this pattern receptacle is the inside of the closet door. Bags. — No conveniences of the sew- ing room are more to be valued than bags, which may be used for various purposes, such as scrap bags, bags for waste thread, button bags, sewing bags, etc. Scrap Bags. — When the annual spring cleaning is finished all pieces of cloth that have accumulated during the winter should be sorted and put in bags labeled to denote their con- tents. One bag may be marked calico, another linings, another silk, and so on. The labeling may be done with India ink, or by writing on a small slip of paper pasted on the outside of each bag. If odd pieces of cloth are cared for in this manner, it enables one to lay the hand upon any desired article at a moment's notice when do- ing the weekly mending. The top of the bag should be finished with casing and draw string, so as to hang on a hook in the closet. Bags for Waste Thread. — It is of- ten a tedious task to pick up the waste threads and cuttings after a day's sewing. This arduous duty may be greatly lessened by hanging a small basket or open-mouthed bag near the sewing machine into which cuttings and threads may be dropped. Button Bags. — Almost every gar- ment calls for a button on mending day. This constant demand makes it very convenient to have them near at hand. A button bag may be made by taking a circular piece of goods, hem- ming it all around, and crocheting an edge around it with thread or floss. Run a cord through the floss, and fasten with a round button, then draw up the cord and wind it several times around. This prevents the contents from spilling into the workbasket. A classified arrangement of the but- tons is both a necessity and a time- saving device. A box is usually pro- vided for this purpose and buttons of the same kind run on a string. This enables one to find the button needed without trouble. Sewing and Handkerchief Bags. — Sewing bags, handkerchief bags, etc., are usually made with a. round bot- tom, cardboard being used for the purpose. This soon breaks and often the bag is a wreck before it is even 238 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES soiled. A tin bottom is much more durable and may be obtained from the tin lids foimd under the cover of lard pails. The ridge may be flattened with a hammer. Several sizes may be obtained from three-pound, five- pound, and ten-pound pails. Needles. — If needles are left in the paper in which they are bought, and carelessly dropped into the wastebas- ket, it often happens that the very size needle one wishes to use is lying loose in the basket, and hence not discernible. Therefore it is advisable to place needles of different sizes in needlebooks. Flannel should not be used in needlebooks because the sulphur used in its preparation will rust the needles. Fine linen or chamois leather is to be preferred. To Prevent Needles from Rusting. — ^Those who live in damp regions find great difficulty in keeping their sew- ing-machine and other needles from becoming covered with rust. A good preventive is to put the needles in a suitable cloth thoroughly saturated with machine oil. Soak in oil the papers in which sewing needles come. These may then be kept in a small tin can or box so as to protect the ma- chine drawer. To Sharpen Uachine Needles. — The points of machine needles often be- come bent or blunt by striking upon the feed plate. They may be sharp- ened and made as good as new by rubbing them over a small hone for that purpose, which can be had at any hardware store. A good sub- stitute for the needle hone is to re- volve the point of the needle upon the smooth side of a piece of hand pumice. Picking Up Scissors and Needles. — One is very apt to drop scissors and needles upon the floor. The annoy- ance and labor of constantly picking them up may be greatly lessened by attaching a horseshoe magnet to a long cord or ribbon. Give this a place in your workbasket and it is an ever- ready helper when these articles fall on the floor. Invalids and elderly ladies wUl find this little convenience an especial boon. Threading Needles. — The old way was to thread a lot of needles and stick them in a cushion. This seemed to be a great time saver, when the busy woman surveyed her cushion cov- ered with a half dozen or more needles, with their streams of thread trailing over it. But when the threads became tangled, the time-saving device fell flat. A much better way is to thread a nvunber of needles on a spool of thread, leaving a few inches imrolled, so that they will not fall off. When a needle full of thread is wanted, all the needles but one may be pushed back as the' thread is unroUed to al- low the breaking off of any length of thread. Many women thread a needle before working the thread off the spool, as it prevents the thread from snarling. Threading a Darning Needle. — Draw the cotton tight across the point of the needle and put the thread double through the eye of the needle. Care of Thread. — There are many devices for keeping intact spools of thread. The following is one of the most convenient: cut two elliptical (egg-shaped) pieces of cardboard, covering both sides of them with some pretty colored material. Pieces of cardboard 3| inches in length will hold in place three spools of thread. After covering the cardboard puncture three holes through the middle of each board. Take three spools of thread of different sizes, place the coarsest at the largest end, graduating them according to size of spool, and lace a piece of baby ribbon or bobbin tape, first through one side of the ellipse, then through the spool and the second piece of cardboard, drawing it in turn through a second spool, and the mid- dle hole of the second cardboard, and so on until the three spools are held in place. Bring the ends of the rib- bon or tape together in the center of the ellipse, slipping one end over the small loop caused by running the thread through the middle hole, and tie in a bow. This will be found to SEWING AND MENDING DAY be one of the most convenient devices for always keeping the thread in place, and is small enough to drop into the workbasket, where it may be kept clean. If it is desired to join more than three spools, the pieces of cardboard may be cut larger. Or a convenient device for holding thread may be made by driving nails into a piece of wood made as a shelf over the machine, or it may be made to fit the bottom of the machine drawer. The spools of thread can be kept on the naUs, sorted according to size and color. This or any similar arrangement saves both time and pa- tience. Scissors. — ^There is no article in the household more useful than the scis- sors, and the sewing room should be well fitted out with various sizes of scissors as follows: Cutting Scissors. — A pair of ban- dage scissors like those used by sur- geons is useful when trimming the necks and armholes of dresses, be- cause there is no danger of sharp points being thrust into the skin. Scissors with Long Blades are pre- ferred for cutting heavy cloth or woolen fabrics, and indeed all gar- ments where there are long lines to be followed. Scissors for Cutting Waists. — Waists and children's garments, where the curves are short and numerous, are much more conveniently cut out when the blades of the scissors are of mediiun length. Embroidery Scissors. — For trim- ming the edges of embroidery, snip- ping threads, and cutting out goods from close corners, fine, slender, deli- cately pointed scissors are found the best. Buttonhole Scissors. — Embroidery scissors may also be used in place of buttonhole scissors. Buttonhole scis- sors, however, are a great convenience in the sewing room. To Silence Noisy Scissors. — When one has much cutting to do the con- stant squeaking of the scissors is very annoying. It is a simple matter, however, tb correct this by breathing into the open hii^ge, after which open and close the scissors several times. Dull Scissors. — If it is not con- venient to send your scissors to a scis- sors grinder, there are simple devices by which you may sharpen them. Open the scissors around the neck of a small bottle and work them vigor- ously> for a few minutes. Or open the scissors, hold them firmly against the table or machine, and with an ordinary file, not too coarse, file both blades just as if you were trying to take the edge off. If your scissors are of good quality, you will find this very satisfactory. Pins. — Every housewife, no doubt, has had some trouble in keeping track of her pins when at the machine, or otherwise engaged in sewing. The sewing room should, therefore, be equipped with conveniences for taking care of these useful little articles. Otherwise a great many may be lost during a day's sewing or mending. One very simple way of keeping pins ever ready and at hand is to at- tach a little piece of flannel or canvas to the spool holder, in which to stick pins. If your spool holder is a de- vice which rests upon your sewing, then your pins are convenient. If it be a convenience attached to the ma- chine you have your pins at hand when you sit down to stitch. Or a small pincushion may be hung from the tension of the sewing ma- chine. Or a cushion two or three inches in length may be made of some pretty muslin or flannel goods and pinned to your waist near the shoulder. This last device provides you with pins, whether you are at the machine or sewing in any other part of the house. A Useful Work Case. — There is nothing more charming, useful, or con- venient than the old-fashioned house- wife our grandmothers used, equipped with pockets for scissors, buttons, thread, and thimblesi with cushions at- tached for needles and pins. This may be carried to any part of the house, in or out of the sewing room, and is always ready. 240 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Convenient Tape Measure. — If a yard measure is not already marked off on your machine, time is saved if you mark one off for yourself. A very easy way to do it is to take as many common pins as you will need, and cut them about half an inch below the head. Measure a yard off on your machine. Drive one of the pin heads into the wood, then one at the half, third, fourth, and eighth of a yard. This does not deface the machine, is not conspicuous, and unless you have " a place for everything and every- thing in its place," will save time when the tape measure is mislaid or lost. Six-inch Rule. — For measuring hems or for any measurement where six inches or less is desired, a six-inch rule is a convenient article to have in your workbasket. Crayon as a Marker. — Sometimes when you are using your tucker on your sewing machine the marker will not show on the goods to be tucked. If you rub a piece of crayon over the marker the line will be perfectly dis- tinct. To Renovate a Tape Measure. — If your tape measure is still good and the figures have become dim, you can trace them over with a fine-pointed brush and India ink. Bust Form. — It does not always hap- pen that there is another woman in the house on whom to fit a new gar- ment or a lining with which to reno- vate an old waist. If the woman who does her own sewing once becomes possessor of a bust form, she wiU wonder how it was possible to have done without it. These articles cov- ered with black jersey and very light in weight can be had in aU sizes at any department store or mail-order establishment for about SO cents. It is not only possible with a bust form to fit your own waist but, owing to the fact that it extends about 13 inches below the waist, to have the added advantage of well-shaped hips over which to drape skirts. Clothes Hints. — If it were possible to equip the sewing room with such conveniences as we have suggested. and many other little devices, mend- ing day would be less dreaded. And the labor would be further lightened if every member of the family would heed the following cautions about their clothing: Give your clothes an occasional vacation. Don't carry heavy articles in coat or trousers pockets; or, if they must be carried thus, empty the pockets before the garments are laid away. Don't wear your street jacket dur- ing business hours. Don't be pasBimonious in the qual- ity or quantity of your clothes. Don't spoil the shape of your trousers by suspending them by the buckle ; fold them and hang them over a rod, or lay them flat on a shelf or in a bureau drawer. Don't wear the same shoes every day if you can avoid it. Don't neglect to brush every article of outside clothing before laying it aside. Don't wear the nap off soft cloth by using a whisk broom; use a brush. Don't forget to elude moths by wrapping in newspapers freshly print- ed the garments you lay away. Don't let a stain remain with the hope that it wUl disappear; the older the stain the harder it is to remove. Don't plunge your foot into a sock; turn the upper part of the sock down before inserting the foot, then draw it on easily and gently. Don't suspend your jacket by a loop; drape it over a hanger. Don't spoil the shape of your pock- ets by thrusting your hands into them constantly. MENDIITG Garments that are neatly mended wiU last much longer than those care- lessly repaired. It is impossible, there- fore, to expend too much pains on this homely and prosaic occupation. There are many American women who think that it is not economy to spend much time in mending. In Paris some years ago the demand for mending became SEWING AND MENDING DAY 241 so graat that it became a trade, and finally developed into an art. The French woman has great love for her clothes, and her first wish is to make them as beautiful and perfect as pos- sible. She regards it as a profanation to let her garments become defaced with spot or tear. If she finds it be- yond her skill to repair a torn or worn garment, she immediately hur- ries it off to the woman whose special business is to make a garment " as good as new." These experts can mend a rent or set in a piece so skill- fully that the " little dress tragedies " are soon forgotten. To the French woman, therefore, it is not only econ- omy to have a garment mended, but the art of caring for things with ex- quisite nicety bespeaks for her an ele- gance which she may not otherwise seem to possess. When mending day comes around the busy woman may find it hard to recall the things that need attention. Her memory may be assisted by re- cording in a small blank book the arti- cles that have been put out of service through rents or tears or lack of but- tons and the like. Then when mend- ing day comes round the memoran- dum may be consulted. In making up garments some of the material of each should be reserved and put in one of the numerous bags that have their place in the sewing room or attic closet. On ironing day all articles that need mending should be sent to the sewing room to await their turn on mending day. Anything that does not find its way to the reg- ular weekly wash should be periodi- cally examined, all rents sewed up, stains removed, and any other neces- sary renovation attended to during the regular weekly routine. The table linen should be carefvilly examined before laying away. If tow- els are wearing thin in the middle they may be cut in halves, the two outer edges sewed together, and rehemmed. The woman who systematically mends every article of the household will prove true the well-known aphorism that " a stitch in time saves nine." Mending Pieces. — A large patent envelope with a sample bit pinned to the outside is a good receptacle for , mending pieces, the advantages beingi that moths cannot get at woolen ones, and that dust is kept out. Way to Provide ilending Pieces. — It often happens in making wash gar- ments that only the tiniest bits are left over. Some women provide mend-i^ ing pieces by making an apron of the same material as the dress. Then when the sleeves or other worn places must be renewed, the slightly faded and partly worn apron may be util- ized, and the patch wiU not be con- spicuous. Or, when a wash dress goes to the laundry, bits of the goods may be basted on the wrong side of the skirt so that they wiU fade evenly and come out the same color as the; garment. Mending Tissue. — If court plaster or mending tissue is used instead of thread, a rent in cloth may be mended so that it will be hard to detect. Lay the cloth upon a, smooth, flat surface, stick a pin perpendicularly into it so as to hold the edges firmly together, but not too close to the tear; about three fourths of an inch away is a good distance. Apply court plaster which has been well moistened, and allow it to stand long enough to be- come sticky rather than wet. Care- fully rub the dress goods against the court plaster until every particle of the surface adheres. Then press the spot with a moderately hot iron through a piece of muslin or tissue paper. If any frayed threads remain, carefully clip them off with sharp scissors. Darning on Woolen Goods. — Silk or cotton thread should never be used to darn woolen goods. To make an in- visible darn use ravelings from the goods to be darned. After carefully darning the edges, turn the face up, dampen the spot, place a piece of white tissue paper over it, and hold it against the face of a moderately hot iron. When almost dry carefully place the garment on an ironing board 242 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES or table and give one or two good thumps with the iron. Handing: White Goods and Deli- cate Fabrics. — ^When mending white goods, the piece with which you mend should be so large that when the arti- cle is washed the patch will not tear out. A good way to make a neat job is to slip the goods to be mended over an embroidery hoop to hold it firm. This will enable you to do the work very neatly and quickly. To Mend Moth-eaten Garments. — When a silk or woolen garment is badly moth-eaten it is not always pos- sible to darn the hole with raveUngs from the fabric. In such cases place a small patch of the material under the hole and darn carefully around the edges of the hole on the right side with ravelings. Then press with a moderately hot iron, putting first a damp cloth and then a piece of dry tissue paper between the cloth and the iron. Waste Silk. — The loose ends of spool silk are excellent for mending and may be placed in a little bag by the workbox. Darning by Machine. — Baste a piece of net on the wrong side of the garment to be mended. Cut a square or oblong hole. Then with No. 100 thread on the machine sew back and forth, being careful that the rows of stitching come very close together. Never take the needle out of the goods. After stitching one way across the hole, stitch in the contrary direc- tion, always following the weave of the material. Mending Men's and Boys' Clothes. — It is a very difficult task to mend men's outside garments so that the darns will not deface them. First, place the mending scrap smoothly un- der the three-cornered or other hole to be mended. Then thread a needle with silk thread the same shade as the goods, insert it half an inch from the tear, and draw edgewise through the thickness of the cloth about half an inch on the other side, thus draw- ing the edges together. Then put the needle in the same hole from which it has just been brought out, turn it a little, and pass through the cloth so as to bring iC out half an inch on the other side of the tear. If the cloth is rather heavy, it is possible to avoid having the thread come to the surface, except when the needle is brought through to turn. So continue and thus make an invisible darn. When this is done place a wet cloth over the goods and press with a hot iron. Follow with a dry cloth. Do not allow the iron to stay on it imtil the first cloth is entirely dry. This prevents the mended spot having a shiny appearance. Boys' Trousers. — Boys' trousers may be quickly mended with gum tis- sue. If every mother knew the value of this tissue she would save herself much work by using it, and would have the satisfaction of always seeing a neat mend. Boys' trousers may also be mended on the machine after the fashion mentioned in " Mending on the Machine," first being careful to baste a strong piece of material smoothly under the thin places. Fine thread should be used the same shade as the goods for this purpose. The stitch should be rather short. Silk Dresses. — ^When the sleeves of a silk dress become thin it will last much longer if they are ripped out and new ones put in. It is an advantage, also, to treat worn breadths of the skirt in the same way. Mending Fringe. — Torn fringe may be renewed by taking a piece of card- board and stiff paper as wide and as long as the fringe. Wind suitable thread evenly and closely around the cardboard, then paste this along the edge of the article in place of the worn fringe and stitch on by ma- chine. If one strip of cardboard is insufficient make more strips and paste them close together. The card- board may be torn out when fin- ished, leaving the thread to form the fringe. Mending lace. — Crochet a long, loose chain or buttonhole stitch along the worn edges of the lace with thread SEWING AND MENDING DAY 243 to match its quality and color. For cream lace use unbleached linen thread, or tint the spool by dipping it in strong coffee. Mending Waists. — It is not neces- sary to discard a lingerie waist be- cause the trimming has given way. Draw the torn pieces together first, then baste a piece of white wash net under the entire yoke and machine stitch with very fine thread. Cut away the surplus net, allowing a small mar- gin near the stitching to prevent pull- ing out when latmdered. Sleeves. — The worn seams of sleeves may be strengthened by buttonholing over them with darning silk the color of the waist. This comes on spools the same as ordinary sewing silk, but is softer and may be split. Uending Corsets. — The nicest way to mend a broken corset is to bind where it may be broken with a small piece of chamois skin. Or, when the waist begins to wear through, it may be mended neatly on the machine. " Hand patches " al- ways look clumsy, but strips of cloth may be stitched on it, doubling over the worn places without in the least marring the garment. Stitch the strips the full length of the casings, and they will not only serve their special purpose, but will add months to the wear of the corset Uending Gloves. — To mend gloves neatly if they are torn or ripped, first buttonhole stitch around the rent, not so close as in a buttonhole; then over- cast, taking up the threads of the buttonhole on the edge and draw the edges carefully together. Or holes as well as rips in gloves may be mended in the same way also, with this difference: after buttonhol-' ing around the rent, gradually close up the hole by buttonholing inside of the first row of buttonholing. When the hole finally becomes filled you have a tiny circle of embroidery made with thread to match the gloves. Thus what was an unsightly hole becomes a neat and attractive embroidered spot upon the glove. Or the gloves may be mended with a piece of court plaster moistened and pasted on the wrong side. Be care- ful to cut off the corners of the plas- ter and slit its edges in order to make it fit the part of the glove to be mended. Thread for Mending Gloves. — In- stead of mending gloves with sUk to match them as is the usual custom, l try good cotton thread the color of I the gloves. You will find it will not be so noticeable as silk thread. Mending Skirts. — The part of a skirt which needs most constant at- tention and repair is, perhaps, the bottom. A skirt may catch on the heels, tearing off the braid and part of the goods, or the edges may be- come worn, or the braid itself become frayed. Skirt Bindings. — There are a num- ber of ways to overcome the untidy appearance of a skirt with worn edges. One good way is, when the edge be- comes frayed, to sew skirt protector upon it. The hem is not necessary as the worn edges unite with those of the binding. Or, when the skirt braid has be- come worn on the edge, it may be ripped off and reversed, turning the worn part to the top and the fresh edge to the bottom of the skirt. After pressing your skirt under a damp cloth you wUl find you have a neat finish, and one braid will thus give the wear of two. Or the hem may be turned up and stitched down outside instead of on the inside. Mending Stockings. — A woman may be an adept at mending coats, trou- sers, and dresses, and indeed almost every garment worn by her family, and yet be unable to mend stockings so that they wUl not torment tender feet. It is a great art to be able to mend stockings neatly. There are al- most as many ways of filling up the holes as there are colors of stockings, and each one may be more or less comfortable if only a little care is taken in sewing the rent, putting in place the patch, or filling the hole with thread. 244 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVEEIES To Darn Stockings on a Sewing Kachine. — Mending stockings on a sewing machine saves time greatly, but is a very difficult task to perform. One of the simplest ways of doing so is to stretch the stocking tightly over two small embroidery hoops, being careful to have the hole as near the center as possible. Then cut away the ragged edges with sharp scissors. Re- move the presser foot of the machine and place the hole under the needle. Then stitch back and forth, as in the case of darning fabrics on the ma- chine. If care is taken the darn is much neater and smoother and far more quickly done than any other. Sewing thread may be used, but fine darning cotton is preferable. The hoops may be either metal or common embroidery hoops. To Hand Stockings by Hand. — If the hole is large, a convenient way is to baste carefully over the hole on the wrong side a piece of coarse net, then darn back and forth, taking your stitches in and out of the net, yet darn as close as ordinarily. The net acts as a stay to the soft darning thread. Or, if the hole is large, run a thread all around it first, and draw it up somewhat, but of course not enough to pucker. The hole is not only made smaller by this operation, but the darn is strengthened. Mending Stockings with a Crochet Needle. — The most expert darn, which requires the greatest skill and is also the easiest on the feet, is to fasten to the stitches that have become bro- ken a single strand of darning thread to match the thread of which the stocking is woven. Then crochet a smooth chain of sufficient length to reach across the opening, and fasten in the broken thread on the opposite side of the hole. Continue this proc- ess back and forth each time, catch- ing the thread in the chain already made. When the hole is flUed you have a surface as smooth as the orig- inal fabric of the stocking itself. Darning Woolen Stockings. — When darning a woolen stocking it is well to go over the break the first time with coarse cotton or sewing silk. Then make a coarse layer of good woolen yarn; this insures a smooth and substantial darn. Darning with Crechet Stitch. — An- other method, which is not quite so expert nor so satisfactory in the mat- ter of comfort, is to first cut away the worn edges of the hole until you reach strong material. Then, with wool or cotton of suitable weight crochet round the edge, putting the hook through the material. Con- tinue this process round and round, each time narrowing to give the proper shape, until the opening is closed. Darning Thread. — When darning black stockings use silkatine, as it is more durable than yarn. This thread is also best for fancy colored stock- ings, as it is easier to match the color of the stocking and makes a more durable darn. Or use fancy crochet cotton, which is not quite so expensive as the regu- lar darning cotton and makes a, very good darn. Or use black sUk, which comes for the purpose and makes the neatest darn for black stockings. Darning Ball. — The darning ball, which may be purchased at any de- partment store, is a white or black china egg; but there are many home devices which are found in many cases far more satisfactory. For instance, in the country where gourds are grown nothing is better, as they are number- less in shape and size. RENOVATIUG Almost always the garment which is to be mended requires more or less renovation before it is ready for serv- ice again. In the case of cotton fab- rics the laundry does the work. In silks, woolens, or velvets a deft hand and cleansing fluid, a damp cloth and an iron are necessary. To Kestore the Gloss Finish on Woolen Goods. — First, brush the cloth the way of the weave with a brurfi SEWING AND MENDING DAY 245 dipped in weak gum water. Then carefully place over it a sheet of paper or a piece of cloth, allowing no wrin- kles either in the cloth or the cover- ing, and put it under a weight or in a screw press until dry. To Restore Creased Velvet. — ^Velvet creases badly when folded for trim- ming, and cannot be used again until the creases are removed. A simple way to do this is to procure a wide piece of heavy cardboard and stretch the velvet tightly upon it, overlapping as little as possible. Put the card- board in a paper bag, paste the top to keep out the dust, set it on the shelf above the kitchen range, and let it remain there until the heat raises the pile. Or wet a cloth and lay it on a hot iron, holding the velvet over the steam which rises. Or stretch the velvet until it is taut on a light wooden frame made, if possible, the size of the piece to be renovated and hold it over the steam of a boiling kettle. This last proc- ess has, perhaps, the most durable effect. To Raise the Nap on Cloth. — The article should be well cleaned, after which soak it in cold water for half an hour, put it on a board, and rub the threadbare parts with a hatter's card filled with flocks or a teasel brush. A prickly thistle will answer the same purpose. When the nap is raised, lay it the right way and hang the garment up to dry. In renova- ting clothes the elbows, collars, and cuffs are often so worn as to make the garment look shabby. By the above process it may be completely rej uvenated. To Clean a JVhite Hackintosh. — A white mackintosh is very easily soiled and may be cleaned with soap and water. But if it is extremely dirty a soft scrubbing brush with yellow soap may be used. Rub on both sides until the dirt is removed, then dip in three or four waters until the soap is rinsed off and hang in the air without wring- ing. Mud stains around the bottom are very difficult to remove and the garment may have to be sent to a cleaner. But do not use benzine or gasoline, ^s they will dissolve the rub- ber. Trimmings. — On renovation day trimmings also come in for their share of attention. To Stiffen Silk for Trimmings. — To renovate a piece of silk that has lost its stiffness, sponge the surface with a weak solution of gum arable, or with equal parts of ale and water. To prevent its becoming glossy iron while damp on the wrong side. MAKING OVER To Iiengthen a Skirt. — To make a girl's wash skirts and petticoats keep pace with her rapid growth, have on hand a few yards of in- sertion. If this is too expensive or is unsuitable, then it is possible to make an attractive band by taking a strip an inch to two inches wide of any plain cotton goods, or, if it is a colored skirt to be lengthened, then a strip to match the skirt. Hem on each side and ornament with rows of feath- er stitching, with a row of French knots through the middle. For a plain skirt cut about one inch above the hem, placing this narrow band of in- sertion or made strip between. Two or more such bands may be employed if desired or necessary. If it be a trimmed or tucked skirt, cut off above the tucks to allow for a seam and the width of the tuck and insert bands. Or make a new top and sew above the tucks. Take up the tuck on the right side with the seam on the folded edge and stitch to match the other tucks. To Hake Over Sleeves. — One season it becomes necessary to shorten the sleeves, another to lengthen them. If the sleeves are to be made short, a good way is to cut out a piece just above the elbow. Hide the seam by a fold that resembles a tuck. Make two or more tucks, and you have a pretty sleeve with much less trouble than removing them from the shoul- ders. 246 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Aprons. — The first place a work apron gives way is near tlie waist binding, because of the constant rub- bing against the table. When mak- ing a work apron, if a double thick- ness is placed underneath in front from the waist binding down about 12 inches and stitched at the lower edge, the apron will last as long again. Or, if this is not done and the apron becomes thin, cut it in half through the middle, turn it end for end, and stitch the two outer edges together, making a seam down the front; face the worn edges, which now become the outer edges, stitch what was hereto- fore the bottom in the band, and you have an apron rehabilitated. Collars. — A coat may have found its way to the sewing room for mend- ing day. The buttons have been sewed on, the rents mended, and still the coUar remains creased. A very simple process wiU add the finishing touch and make it worth the time it takes. Take a piece of very thin muslin, brush it lightly with white of egg, and lay it over the creases on the wrong side. Press lightly with a warm iron, and the creases will disappear. The collar will stand stiffer than was the original canvas. Hints for Kaking Over. — In mak- ing over garments much depends on care in renovating the material. First rip the garment entirely apart, allow- img no two pieces to remain joined. Then pick out every thread carefully. Lay each piece separately on a table and brush carefully. If there are stains or spots be sure that they are removed. The cleaning must be thorough or the fact that the article is made over wiU be very ap- parent. If the material is faded have it dyed. Black dresses that are not worn, but faded, will look like new after they have been dipped in dye. When redyeing an article, put the new pieces of the material along with the old in the dye. Remember that any color will take black dye. It often happens that goods are faded on one side, but the color is perfectly fresh on the other. If the weave is such that the reverse side may be used, turn the goods and make them up with the fresh side out. Some goods, such as cashmere and silk, may be put in the tub and washed in the usual way, being careful, of course, to thoroughly dust them first. They should be ironed on the wrong side before they are dry with an iron not too hot, and pressed imtil dry. Wheat bran put in the water in which you wash black goods greatly improves them. Sometimes, when using ammonia to get out grease, the color is taken out. This you can restore by applying care- fully a weak solution of oxalic acid and water. Stop as soon as the color returns. Light-colored goods and figured fabrics may be sponged with warm water, alcohol, or gasoline. Very light colors should be sponged on the wrong side of the goods, taking care that every fiber is thoroughly dampened. Go over every piece separately and carefully. Decide the style of garment you wish to fashion of your pieces, get a pattern, and lay it carefully on your goods to see if you have a sufficient quantity, and if not, ascertain how much material of another kind you vrill require, and how far trimming will go to make up the deficiency in goods. You may find in cutting that a considerable amount of piecing is required. Then cut your garment as completely out of the goods as is pos- sible, fit your piecings on to the pat- tern, pin them together, and lay them aside. Stitch and press all the piec- ings, and proceed as with a new garment. Arrange the trimming as far as possible so that it will cover the necessary piecings and tucks. When the garment is finished it will be easy enough to see just what style of trimming will be necessary to cover deficiencies. At the beginning of the spring sew- ing, the old garments that have accu- SEWING AND MENDING DAY 247 mulated may be studied with a. view to their further usefulness, and so with every other season. You may find numerous old linen garments that may do service in the following ways: Uses of a Blue Linen Dress. — This garment may be stout and good but faded in streaks or out of style. Rip it to pieces, wash it, and bleach it in the sunshine until it is all one shade. Then dye it a pretty light blue. The material may then be used for a shirt waist or a child's dress. Embroidered linen is always in good taste, and thus handsome garments may be made of old dresses. Uses of a Brown Linen Dress. — ^An old brown linen dress can also be used to make shirt waists, simmier trousers for boys, or blouses for either boys or girls. Making Over — ^Useful Hints. — Here are some useful hints in making over that wiU prove equally valuable for new goods: Morning and Kitchen Dresses. — It is a good idea when buying morning and kitchen dresses to select first an inconspicuous pattern; secondly, to buy enough for two dresses. Thus when they begin to show wear you will have plenty of material worn alike to make one respectable dress, and perhaps two aprons. Where tiiere is a large family the summer sewing may be greatly ex- pedited by making a list of the mem- bers of the family to be provided for, and under each name adding two lists: what each one has and what each re- quires to complete the summer ward- robe. This will often save both time and money. Old Collars for Canvas. — If one does not happen to have canvas with which to stiffen revers, she will find the old linen collars and cuffs that have been cast off by the men of the family a good substitute for canvas. They must be first washed, being carefiil not to remove all the starch, and then ironed. Many who have used this sub- stitute do not care to retuza to the use of canvas. FANCY WOBK Some knowledge of fancy work aids, a woman very materially from a dec- orative as well as an economical stand- point. The woman who knows how to make and use fancy work may dress well and inexpensively. Homemade Stamping Patterns. — Perforated patterns can be easily made in the following manner: Draw the pattern on butter paper. You can trace on that more easily than on tis- sue paper. Then unthread the needle of the sewing machine, stitch all the lines, and you have the pattern as perfect as any of the purchased ones. Many prefer this to the use of carbon paper. To Transfer Embroidery Designs. — To trace the pattern of some article which has been already embroidered take a piece of cloth you wish to have the design upon, lay it smoothly on a well-padded ironing board, dampen the embroidery design thoroughly, and place it smoothly on linen or cloth right side down. With a thin cloth placed over it aU, press firmly until dry. When the piece is removed the impression will be on the cloth in per- fection. Trace the outlines with a pencil and you have your design.. To Applique Embroidery. — It is possible to make a garment very hand- some if one understands the art of appliqu6. The wise woman whose means are limited will save every mite of embroidery she possesses — ^the em- broidered corners of handkerchiefs, embroidered turn-overs, medallions in her fancy waists, and the hundred and one little odds and ends that from time to time find their way into her wardrobe. When the garment is worn, carefully remove the embroidered parts with very sharp scissors. Lay them away in a box for future use. If you desire an embroidered shirt waist or corset cover, turn to this box of odds and ends and there will be found perhaps a rosebud, the ten- drils of a vine, a few leaves, or the like. Place them carefully upon a new or else an unworn piece of goods, 248 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES fashioning out of the many bits a pleasing design. Baste the bits of embroidery upon the goods with ex- ceeding care, then with fine thread carefully buttonhole the embroidery down upon the fabric. In many cases the Kensington embroidery stitch may be employed. Where the places are not perfectly joined, a vine of one's own handiwork may be inserted. You will be surprised when the work is finished at the daintiness of the gar- ment. Embroidery Silk. — There are many devices for keeping embroidery silk. A very simple and convenient one is a box in which gentlemen's fine ties are sold singly. It is just the right length and size to accommodate the holders. Hemstitching. — Always use a short needle in hemstitching. When hem- stitching on hnen the thread may be easily drawn if a yardstick is laid along a straight line, being careful to insure the proper margin on the outer edge of the piece. If a piece of hard white soap is rubbed along the linen, the threads may be drawn with ease. Hemstitching on the Sewing Ma- chine. — ^Draw the threads as usual. Instead of basting the hem j ust where the threads are drawn, baste it so that the stitch will come a little above the middle of the open work. The fine- ness or coarseness of hemstitching is regulated by a short or long stitch. Eyelet Embroidery. — An orange stick, such as is used for manicuring the nails, may be used as a substitute for the stiletto when making holes for embroidery. It is more satisfactory than the points of scissors, which often make the holes irregular. To Prepare Linen for Embroider- ing. — If new linen must be embroid- ered without being shrunk, it will be much easier if you first rub it over with fine white soap. The threads are thus prevented from cracking. Working Initials. — If handkerchiefs or napkins are to have embroidered initials, baste the corners of four of them together. Then slip the em- broidery rings in place. Thus four initials can be worked without chang- ing the rings. Fancy Work that Has Become Drawn. — When fancy work has be- come drawn in working, dip a cloth in cold water, wring it out, and lay it on a wooden table. Lay the worked piece over this, pinning it at intervals of half an inch until not a pucker re- mains. Leave this for several hours, or over night,-and when the pins are removed the drawn appearance will have disappeared. To Cut Insertion. — Place the at- tachment next to the quilter on the sewing machine and set on the edge of the insertion close to the work. Then adj ust for the margin to be left. Place the needle just where the inser- tion is to be cut. With unthreaded needle stitch the entire length. Then follow the lines of the holes in cut- ting. Sewing Insertion on Garments. — When insertion is to be sewed on a straight strip, a very good way is to baste the lace or embroidery in the straight edge of the goods. If lace, allow enough of the goods to form a hem. If embroidery, just allow a seam, and stitch close to the cord of the embroidery or right on the edge of the lace. Then turn that which has been allowed for the hem, and stitch. This makes a first-class imitation of trimming that has been whipped in, and takes much less time. Embroidery Edging for Underwear. — If imderwear is to be trimmed with embroidery, the latter may be strength- ened and made more durable by stitch- ing around the scallops before putting the embroidery on the garment. Use a loose tension to avoid splitting be- tween the scallops. Ripping. — Garments for growing children have constantly to be made over — sleeves to be lengthened, new sleeves to be made, hems let out of skirts, and the like. An old-fashioned chain-stitch machine can be purchased for a song and will prove excellent for stitching up these particular seams; then when the garment is to be taken apart a child can rip it. SEWING AND MENDING DAY 249 Nothing is better for ripping than the thin blade of a razor. If the men of the house shave themselves, old razors are occasionally discarded and are excellent for ripping. Cutting. — Time may be saved by cutting tv/o corresponding pieces of an apron. This avoids pinning the pattern to each piece separately. To mark the tucks, place a piece of im- pression paper under the two pieces of material. Then with a common lead pencil mark aU the perforations. Thus, the above pieces are marked ex- actly alike, and half the time has been saved. Cutting Bias Folds. — It is a good plan to turn the material over fre- quently to make sure that it is kept quite bias. Any deviation therefrom will cause the threads to twist when sewing the folds on the garment. Cutting Silk. — If silk is thin and slippery it may be placed between sheets of thin paper before the pat- tern is laid on. Cut through the paper and material together, and there will be little fraying. CHAPTER IX SWEEPING DAY UTENSILS FOR SWEEPING— DUST AND DUSTING— HABD-WOOD FLOOBS— RUGS— MATTING— OILCLOTH AND LINOLEUM One day in the week, usually Fri- day, is set apart as sweeping day. At the top of the house, in the attic stairway, keep cleaning rags, brush, soap, dusters, and broom. Have a wastebasket in each of the rooms to receive bits of paper, rags, Uat, burnt matches, and the like. Com- mence at the top of the house and clean each room as you go. Take up the dust from each room and put it in a tin bucket or other deep recep- tacle so that it will not be blown about. Never sweep the dirt from one room to another, and thence down the stairway to the front hall. This method covers the door» lintels, win- dow casings, and high shelves with a thick coating of dust which is blown about the room with every passing breeze. Sweep the stairs with a short-han- dled brush or stiff whisk broom, hold- ing a dust pan to catch the dust at each step. Triangular blocks, or brass fixtures made for this purpose, tacked into the corners of the stairways will assist in keeping them clean by pre- venting dust from acciunulating. After a room has been swept, open one or more viondows, if possible, be- fore beginning to dust. UIEXSIIS rOS SW£EFIir& Carpet Sweeper. — The ideal method of sweeping is by means of a carpet sweeper. This goes over the surface of the carpet with a light and even pressure, and takes up all dust and dirt with the least possible friction and consequent wear upon the carpet. and raises practically no dust at all. It saves strength and time, and prob- ably saves money by outwearing the brooms that could be purchased for " The Ideal Method of Sweeping." the same price. Hence a good carpet sweeper may be regarded as a neces- sity rather than a luxury in every household. How to Sweep. — ^The old-fashioned brooms, however, are still commonly used, and are needed for some pur- poses in every household. To sweep well with a broom is an art that calls for quite a little skill and intelli- gence. There are wrong ways in sweeping as well as the right way, and the former are perhaps more often practiced than the latter. 250 SWEEPING DAY 251 It is wrong to lean on the broom, or dig into the carpet with great force, as if trying to dig down and get the dirt out of it. This cannot be done except by taking up the carpet and beating it. All the dust and dirt that can be removed is that which lies on the surface. It is wrong to push the broom for- ward so as to drive a cloud of dust into the air. It is wrong to sweep the whole length of the room toward the door in order to sweep the dirt into the next room. TWs carries the dirt over a larger surface of carpet than is nec- essary. It is wrong to sweep always on one side of a broom so that it will get lopsided and have to be thrown away. The right way to use a broom is to keep the handle always inclining for- ward and never allow it to come to the perpendicular; much less incline backward. The stroke should be rath- er long, the sweeper standing on the soiled portion of the carpet, reaching back, and drawing the dust and dirt forward as if pulling or dragging it over the surface. A skUlful sweeper will lift the broom ' before it be- comes perpendicular so as not to raise the slightest dust, and will tap it gently to shake the dirt out of it before reaching back for another stroke. Begin in one corner, and work along the crack between the baseboard and carpet, as this is where moths and car- pet bugs do their most destructive work. Work around the room, sweep- ing toward the center, and when that has been reached take up the dust with pan and brush. It is obvious that this process moves the dirt over a smaller surface than sweeping toward one of the doors. The practice of sweeping the dirt from one room into another, even if the latter room be the kitchen, is certainly inadvisable. Both brooms and carpets will wear much longer if sweeping is done in proper fashion, and the dust in furni- ture, draperies, and bric-a-brac will be reduced to a minimum. Sweeping. — Before sweeping dip the broom in hot soapsuds, and have at hand a pailful of soapsuds in which to rinse the broom when it becomes dusty. Squeeze out the water so that the broom is damp but not wet. This practice toughens the straw, makes the broom last much longer, and soft- ens it so that it does not cut the car- pet. A damp broom also takes up the dirt better than a dry one and pre- vents the dust from rising in the air. To prevent dust when sweeping wet a newspaper, tear it in small pieces, and scatter them over the car- pet. Squeeze the paper so that it will not drip. Or sprinkle the carpet with moist tea leaves, which may be saved daily for this purpose. If a room is heated by hot air, a good deal of dust will come up through the register. To prevent this, place a fine wire screen or two or three thicknesses of cloth under the regis- ter, so that the hot air will be screened in passing through. When shaking down the furnace or removing the ashes sprinkle wet sawdust over the ashes. This will prevent filling the house with dust. When upholstered furniture, draperies, carpets, and Ori- ental rugs require dusting, lay over them large pieces of cheese cloth or outing flannel wrung out of cold water, and beat them with a stick or small carpet beater. As the dust arises it will adhere to the wet cloths, and these can be rinsed occasionally. To Select Brooms. — Select a broom of light-green color and fine straw. It wears longer and gathers fine dirt that coarse straw would pass by. Choose a flat broom, not a round one. Shake the broom, and choose one which is not loose, otherwise the straw will fall out. Be sure that there is no stalk below the thread. Care of Brooms. — Broom straw when dry is brittle and easily broken. It is also stiff and wears the carpets. Hence before using a new broom set it in a pail of boiling suds and let it stand until the water is cold. Hang it out of doors to dry. 252 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES When not in use a broom should al- ways be hung upside down so that the straws will fall apart. This helps to keep it in shape. Have different brooms for different purposes. Use the newest for the finest carpets, the next older broom for kitchen use, and the oldest broom for the pavement and other rough places. When through sweeping pick all the lint from the broom, shake the dust out of it, and rinse in hot water before hanging it up. Make a pocket in which to hang the broom upside down. Or put two large clothes hooks fac- ing each other, or two nails, and hang the head of the broom between these. Or drive nails through two large spools to protect the straw. Or put up a ring on the wall and thrust the broom handle through this. Keep the broom in a dry, cool place, away from rats or mice. Too much heat makes it brittle, and rats and mice will gnaw it when they can. Af- ter a time the ends of a broom split and become sharp, and the broom gets out of shape. Wet it in hot suds, cut the split and broken ends straight across, and press it between weights to restore it to shape. A new broom sweeps clean because the straws are straight and the broom is square, hence a broom thus treated wUl sweep like new. When sweeping, sweep first with one side of the broom, then with the other, else it will get one-sided and have to be thrown away. Care of Carpet Sweepers. — The car- pet sweeper should be . emptied every sweeping day, and never put away full of dirt. It may be opened over a newspaper. The brush should be tak- en out and freed from dust and lint with the fingers or a coarse comb, rinsed in soapsuds, and dried before being replaced. When the rubber tires on the wheels become worn they may not assist the brush to revolve with sufficient strength to do good work. New tires may be obtained from the manufacturers, or thick rubber bands purchased from a stationer or rubber-goods dealer may be substituted. Remove the old tires and adjust the new ones with glue or cement. New brushes may be ob- tained from the manufacturer, and with care a good carpet sweeper should last a lifetime. A toy carpet sweeper is a great convenience, as it may be kept at hand or easUy carried from place to place. In the sewing room it is useful to catch all ravelings and smaU pieces from the floor without stooping. Tliis may be done without rising from the chair. In the nursery it takes all bits of paper torn by children, about the dining-room table it catches crumbs, and aU with little effort and without the need of using or even possessing a large-sized sweeper. The toy sweep- er costs less than half a doUar and will save its price many times over. DUST AND DUSTING Dust is defined by the Century Dictionary as " earth or other matter in fine dry particles so attenuated that they can be raised and carried by the wind." The particles of earth and other mineral substances con- tained in dust are troublesome, but not especially harmful. In addition to this, dust contains three sorts of spores or germs, i. e., molds, yeasts, and bacteria. All of these are alive, or capable of life, and under suitable conditions multiply rapidly. They are invisible except imder the micro- scope, and are exceedingly numerous. The conditions most favorable to their growth are darkness, warmth, and moisture. Direct sunlight kills them, and in the absence of moisture, they do not usually multiply. All of these germs produce minute plant or vegetable organisms of which common mold or " mildew " and the yeast used in raising bread are familiar examples. A visible il- lustration of the spores or germs, that are the seeds of plants of this sort, is found in the common puff- ball or " smoke " ball, so familiar to country children. When broken, the contents escape as a cloud of dust. SWEEPING DAY 253 These are the spores or seeds of the plant. The air is fiill of similar spores or germs, and while many of these are not harmful, others are the agents of decay and a few are the germs of contagious diseases. These are called bacteria. Their natureil home is in moist soil. Thus they multiply rapidly in the soil of damp cellar floors, especially if decaying vegetable matter is present, and in the accumulation of dirt and grease beneath boarded-up sinks, and in the corners of rooms that are shut up and darkened. They are also very numerous about drains and cess- pools. They sometimes find their way into the body by means of drinking water or by accidental contact with the body when the skin is cut or scratched. But more frequently they are dislodged from some moist local- ity and become dry. Then they are caught up by every passing breeze, and float in the air as dust, whence they are taken into the mouth and lungs in breathing. The bacteria which cause disease find lodgment under certain condi- tions and grow in the body. They throw off in' the process of growth certain poisonous substances called toxins. And these toxins are what produce the symptoms and condi- tions present in such diseases, and eventually, in many cases, produce death. Spores or germs of mold that set- tle on carpets or other fabrics and on wood, books, or other objects. where moisture is present, produce a crop of tiny plants, well known imder the name of mildew. The yeast germs are less common and are relatively harmless. Knowledge of these facts emphasizes the dangers of dust, which may be avoided in three ways: by sterilization, by prevention, and by removal. Sterilization of Dust. — The most eflScient agent to sterilize dust, by killing germs that it contains, is di- rect sunlight. Like many other things that are plentiful and free, sunlight is not appreciated at its true value. In cities, buildings are crowd- ed so closely together as to shade one another, and in the country too frequently direct sunshine is cut off from dwelling houses by thick masses of evergreen and other trees, shrubs or vines. Formerly it was the custom in many localities to keep the parlor and spare chambers closed by shut doors and drawn blinds. And rooms are stiU too often darkened to pre- vent carpets and other fabrics from fading. Happily, a change for the better is already apparent. Hard- wood floors and Oriental rugs do not fade. It is much less customary than formerly to exclude light and air from spare rooms, to board up sinks and other plumbing, and otherwise to harbor breeding places for the germs of mildew, disease, and decay. In cities, boards of health are con- stantly studying these matters, and laws have been passed that tend to prevent unsanitary conditions. The resulting knowledge is being rapidly spread everywhere. And within re- cent years the death rate of most lo- calities has been greatly diminished. There is little doubt that many deaths have been due to conditions that could have been prevented by a. knowledge of the dust dangers. But in the presence of direct sun- shine, dust is rendered harmless. Hence choose furnishings that sun- shine wiU not harm, and admit the sunlight freely to all parts of the house. Preventing Dust. — A certain amount of dust, according to local conditions, is always floating in the outer air, and finds its way into dwellings through doors, windows, and other openings. This cannot usually be much lessened except by such means as oiling streets; sprin- kling streets, lawns, and gardens; the prevention of smoke and the like. But the amount of dust formed with- in doors by the wear of fabrics, fur- niture, woodwork, and other objects, can be much lessened by the selec- tion, when furnishing, of durable ar- ticles of all sorts, and by protecting 254 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES floors, furniture, and other woodwork by suitable coatings of oil, wax, paint, or varnish. And, in addition, vari- ous means may be taken to prevent the distribution of dust when sweep- ing. Removing Dust. — The ordinary means of removing dust is by sweep- ing, and afterwards wiping all ex- posed surfaces by means of a damp cloth, chamois, or other suitable dust- er. Good ventilation is also valuable as ai means of removing dust, espe- cially if the intake is screened so that the fresh air is pure when admitted. Carpet sweepers are especially valu- able as dust removers. But the mod- ern vacuum cleaners may be regard- ed as ideal for this purpose. Vacuum Cleaners. — At present this method of cleaning is somewhat ex- pensive, and is confined to localities where electric or other power is available. It is to be hoped, how- ever, that vacuum-cleaning apparatus may be devised that can be run by cheap gasoline or alcohol motors at a price within the means of the aver- age family. These cleaners, by pro- ducing a vacuum, cause suction pow- erful enough to draw dust, dirt, and other small objects out of the fiber of carpets and hangings, and from the surface of woodwork, furniture, and other objects. The dust is taken in through a suitable mouthpiece provided with a handle with which to guide it as desired, and carried, to- gether with a current of air, through a tube into a receptacle containing wa- ter. This may afterwards be emptied, and all dust permanently removed from the premises. There is little doubt that some such means of clean- ing will eventually take the place of the broom and carpet sweeper in or- dinary households, and that thus the dust question will be finally and sat- isfactorily settled. Dusters. — ^The object of dusting is, or should be, to remove the dust per- manently from the room, and not merely to change its location from hangings, shelves, or furniture cover- ing, whence it will be stirred by every footstep and carried by the first breeze back to its former resting place. The old-fashioned feather duster is useful for moving the dust from one place to another, but for no other pur- pose. The feather duster doubtless owes its popularity to the long handle, which permits of dusting the lower parts of furniture without stooping, and also of dusting objects that would otherwise be out of reach. A substi- tute may be made on the same plan by using a short piece of broomstick, tiie handle of an old feather duster, or a child's broom, and fastening to the end with cord or wire in the same way that a wWsk broom is wired, a deep double ruffle made of any suit- able cloth and of any desired length and thickness. A duster made in this way will retain the dust better than a feath- er duster, and it can be shaken out of the window. Cheese cloth is perhaps the best material for this form of duster, but almost any soft fabric may be employed. Or hem squares of cheese cloth of any convenient size. Or use the tops of old cotton or silk hose, either men's or women's. Cut these down the seam and whip them together with a loose seam. Or for certain purposes, as dusting around baseboards, over windows, doors, and all woodwork that it is dif- ficult to reach with a cloth, use a com- mon dish mop. This is much superior to a feather duster, as it holds the dirt and can be easily cleaned. It wiU be improved for this purpose by wir- ing the upper end with a piece of wire taken from an old whisk broom. Chamois leather slightly dampened is perhaps the best kind of duster, es- pecially for polished furniture. To Dust. — Begin in one corner of the room and dust thoroughly as you go. Commence with the highest arti- cles, wiping but not brushing off the dust, the object being to cause all the dust to lodge on the cloth. Shake the duster frequently out of the window. After using it wash it and hang it up. SWEEPING DAY 255 Wing Dusters. — The wings of fowls, turkeys, geese, and ctiickens are use- ful to dig out tiie corners in washing windows, and also as brushes about the stove and hearth. Dip the bony ends in a bichloride solution to keep out moths and insects. Do not leave them where the cat can chew them. To freshen Carpets. — Before sweep- ing, scatter dry salt over the carpet. It brightens the colors and checks the ravages of moths. Or, after sweeping, go over the car- pet lightly with a broom dipped into half a pailful of hot water to which two teaspoonfuls of ammonia have been added. This freshens the colors of the carpet. Or slightly moisten salt with kero- sene. Sprinkle the carpet and sweep thoroughly. The dust wiU not rise, but will be thoroughly taken up by the mixture. The kerosene wiU leave no greasy effect, the odor will soon pass off, and the carpet will be won- derfully freshened. Corn meal may be substituted for salt. The same treatment may be applied to matting with equally good resiJts. Smooth Floors. — Smooth floors of hard wood, oilcloth, linoleum, or mat- ting should not be swept in the usual way. Make a heavy canton or outing flannel bag with a draw string, large enough to hold the head of the broom. Or use for this purpose ticks that are becoming worn. Wring this bag out of hot water containing a little am- monia, sUp the broom head into it, and draw the puckering string tight about the handle. This takes up all dust, lint, and bits of paper, and makes the room much fresher than ordinary sweeping. Cast-off flannel garments, such as nightshirts and the like, may be utilized in this manner. Or stitch together loosely old cot- ton hose, crazy-quilt fashion. HABD-WOOD FLOORS Finish for Hard-wood Floors. — Rub down a new floor with sandpa- per, and polish with pumice mois- tened with a little water. Wa^ clean. let dry, fill the nail holes with putty, and if the grain of the wood is open, apply a suitable fiUer. Avoid a cheap filler, based on plaster of Paris and the like, as these are not durable. The best filler consists of ground quartz mixed with linseed oil about as thick as white-lead paint. The particles of quartz are angular and adhere to the grain of the wood. When nearly dry, or as soon as it be- gins to " flat," go over it with a cloth or other polisher, and wipe clean all that will come off. Let stand a day or two and polish lightly with the finest grade of sandpaper. Wipe off the dust with a soft cloth and follow with two coats of the best quality of pure shellac. Avoid cheap shellac, as it is much less durable. This gives a high gloss. But if a dull finish is required, the shellac may be rubbed down by means of a piece of felt tacked over a flat surface as a block of wood, with pumice stone mois- tened with cold-drawn linseed oil or olive oil. Or to reflnish a hard-wood floor that has become defaced by age or wear, remove the previous finish by washing the floor with a strong solu- tion of sal soda, or, if necessary, caus- tic potash or soda lye. Or if this does not remove the spots, apply turpentine. After the wood has been perfectly cleaned, proceed as above. Wax for Hard-wood Floors. — Shel- lac alone makes a tough and dura- ble finish, but on account of its high gloss it readily mars and scratches. And these defects are very appar- ent. Moreover, a shellac surface can- not be touched up in spots because the brush marks will show. When defaced, it must be refinished all over. Hence it is customary to fol- low the shellac with a protective coat of wax. Or wood may be oiled with cold- drawn linseed or other clear fixed oU, and a coat of wax applied directly to the oiled surface without shellac. This last is the usual custom abroad. A suitable wax properly applied gives a hard, glossy surface, is not 256 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES sticky, and does not rub off. Scratches or mars on any part of the surface can be waxed over at any time, and the whole surface can be repolished frequently with a weighted brush. Floor oils, unless rubbed and pol- ished with great care, tend to stain skirts, rugs, and draperies. Hence wax is the most satisfactory of all floor dressings. To Wax Floors. — Apply, by means of a flannel cloth, beeswax thinned with turpentine and rub down with a weighted brush. This is a hard wax and difficult to apply without turpen- tine. But the turpentine quickly evaporates, and the wax then forms a very durable coating. Or as a substitute for beeswax, use paraffin wax, which is cheaper, soft and easy to apply, but less durable. Paraffin is one of the petroleum products, and if not properly refined, tends to combine with the tannin of oak floors to form black petroleum stains, which are difficult to remove. Or fasten together four or more common red bricks. Lay one or more thicknesses of felt over the largest surface, surround the whole with flannel or other soft cloth, sew it on and attach an old broom handle with which to push or drag it over the floor. This is equally as effective as a weighted brush and costs nothing. Steel Wool for Waxed Floors. — To scour a hard-wood floor when scratched or marred, or to remove dirt that is ground in, use steel wool, which comes by the pound for this purpose. It can be used in the same fashion as cotton waste, and is a very effective scourer, which wiU not in- jure the finest surface. Polish for Waxed Floors. — Sub- stances recommended for polishing waxed floors are beeswax or rosin, thinned with turpentine, or parafSn wax. Stearin and even tallow can- dles are sometimes used for the pur- pose, but are much less suitable. Pure beeswax thinned with turpen- tine is the simplest and perhaps most desirable polish, but the following are recommended: Rub through a coarse grater 6J pounds of beeswax. Add 3 pounds of pearlash and a little water. Bring to a boil and stir well until they cease to effervesce. Now stir in 3 pounds of dry yellow ocher and pour all into a tin pail, having a tight cover, in which to preserve it for use. Thin when required for use with boiling water to the consistency of cream, and apply while hot with a soft cloth. Polish with a weighted brush and wipe up with a coarse flannel. Or place in a tin pan 5 ounces of powdered rosin, 24 ounces of yel- low beeswax, and rub through a coarse grater. Add 1 pint of tur- pentine, and place the pan in a larger pan, surrounded by boiling water. This should be done at a dis- tance from a stove or open flame, and matches should not be lighted in the vicinity, as the turpentine gives off an inflammable gas. Stir until of a uniform consistency, and pour into glass fruit jars or tin paUs having tight covers to preserve for future use. When required for use, thin with turpentine to the consistency of cream, and apply as above. Spots on Waxed Floors. — Apply a little benzine or turpentine on a soft cloth to remove the wax. Rub clean with a dry cloth, and let the benzine or turpentine evaporate before waxing. To remove dirt that is ground in, scour with steel wool. After the spot has been removed, rub over the spot and adjacent surface with a cloth moistened in a solution of wax and turpentine or other polisher. Rub dry with a weighted brush to a fine polish, otherwise it will be sticky. Avoid the use of water, as it will turn the wax white. Never use soft soap, sal soda, or other alkalies, as they tend to cut the oil in which the shel- lac is mixed, strike through and darken the floor beneath. Oil for Floors. — Do not use crude petrolexun oil on oak or similar hard- wood floors. The crude petroleum contains a dyestufl which, with the addition of tannin, is the basis of black ink. All oak and some other SWEEPING DAY 257 hard woods contain tannin, which unites with certain constituents of crude oil and some other petroleum products to form in the fibers of the wood an insoluble black inky dye. Thus, in a short time the floor will be turned jet black, and its appearance ruined. To remove this stain, wash the floor with sal soda or caustic pot- ash lye, rinse, dry, and apply a solu- tion of 1 pound of oxalic acid dis- solved in 10 or 13 quarts of warm water. Wet the floor with this so- lution and let it dry without rms- ing. Let stand, if convenient, over night. But remember that oxalic acid is an active poison. Hence care must be taken to keep pets and chil- dren out of the room, and not to breathe in the dust that rises from the dry crystals. Pour out the rins- ing water into a pit and cover it with earth. Oxalic acid will not injure shellac or interfere with any subse- quent treatment. Care of Hard-wood Floors. — To prevent furniture from scratching or marring hard-wood floors, get pieces 'And Rub Down with a Weighted Brush." of thick felt or soft rubber or obtain from a cobbler a sheet of rubber sol- ing. Cut these to the exact size of the table and chair feet. Cover them with glue, and when the glue becomes " tacky " lay them on. Put news- papers under the chairs to protect the floor until the glue is quite dry. The floor will be kept in much bet- ter condition if the members of the family wear rubber heels on their shoes. To Restore Wax Floors. — Old wax may be removed from a hard-wood floor by mixing equal quantities of sal soda and slaked lime, and using about 1 pound of the mixture to a pailful of water. Apply this with a mop, and afterwards scrub the floor with sand soap and water. If necessary apply dilute sulphuric acid, 1 part of acid to 10 parts of water. After- wards rinse in water containing a lit- tle ammonia and wipe dry. Remove any remaining traces of wax by means of turpentine. Other- wise shellace will not adhere. BUGS Care of Rugs. — Before sweeping, rugs should be removed from the room and thoroughly cleaned before they are returned to the floor. If rugs are caught by the ends and shaken they soon tear out and unravel. A better way is to hang them on a line and beat them with a carpet beater. Or lay the rug on a clean floor and sprinkle table salt over it. Sweep it hard with a broom until it is clean; turn it and sweep the other side the same way. If rugs must be beaten indoors lay a damp cloth over them. If they are very much soiled, rinse the cloth in hot water and repeat until the rug is clean. To Lay Bugs. — To prevent rugs from curling at the corners fasten under each corner a triangular bit of corrugated rubber. Let these extend 8 or 9 inches along the rug. Bore several small holes in the rubber and sew through holes in the fabric. This not only keeps the rugs in place but makes them last longer. 258 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or sew dress stays or whalebone under the corners to keep the rug from curling. Or turn the rug upside down and apply a liberal coat of cold flour paste with a brush to the corners and edges. Let the rug dry flat on its face, and when dry turn it over, and the weight of the paste will keep it in position. Care of Oriental Hugs. — Oriental rugs, if genuine, are in fast colors, and the top or right side is practically indestructible. The threads at the back, however, are very easily dam- aged. Hence Oriental rugs should al- ways be beaten on the right side. When beaten they should be hung on the line or laid over grass or other soft surface. If much soiled, they may be washed or scrubbed by means of a stiff brush with soap bark dissolved in boiling water, and afterwards wiped off with a clean sponge and dried with a dry cloth. In winter lay an Oriental rug on the porch or other flat surface out of doors, sprinkle it with snow, and brush it off with a stiff broom or heavy whisk broom. To Brighten Colors. — Slightly mois- ten salt with kerosene. Sprinkle this over the rug and sweep it off. Kero- sene wiU leave no greasy effect. The dirt will soon pass off and the colors will be freshened. Or substitute corn meal for salt. MATTING To Clean Matting. — First sprinkle matting with bits of wet newspa- per or similar substances, as with carpets, and sweep the way of the weave, but not across it. Wash with strong salt and water to strengthen the fibers. Or wash with skim milk, rinse in warm water, and dry quickly with a coarse cloth. To Brighten Matting. — If light- colored mattings become stained and faded, wash with strong soda water. This will give them a uniform solid cream color, harmonizing the different tints. Or with a water-color brush apply suitable dyestuff to the pattern to revive and restore it. OILCLOTH AND LINOLEUM To Clean Oilcloth. — Oilcloth should not be scrubbed with a stiff brush or mop, or saturated with water, nor should sal soda or other strong wash- ing compounds be used upon it. The surface is nothing but paint, and if it becomes soaked, especially with water containing strong soapsuds or washing compounds, it crumbles and quickly decays. To use a large sponge with luke- warm water containing skim milk is the best way to wash oilcloth. A very little hard white or yellow soap may be used if necessary. A sponge is excellent, since it leaves no lint, and does not admit of scrubbing the floor hard enough to crack or peel off the surface. After removing the dirt with skim milk and water, go over it a second time, rinsing with a sponge wrung out of clear warm water, and dry enough to take up nearly all of the mois- ture and admit of the floor drying quickly. Or rub it over with a dry woolen cloth. Finally go over the surface with a rag dipped in boiled linseed oil or crude petroleimi oil. This is very cheap, costing only 8 or 10 cents a quart, and a cloth dipped in it will take up enough oil to go over the floor several times. After the cloth has been once saturated it will require but a small quantity of oil each time afterwards. Or use butternulk to wash the oil- cloth. Afterwards rinse with a sponge dipped in clear water. Table Oilcloths. — The thin oilcloths used on kitchen tables, shelves, etc., may be cleaned in the same manner as the floor oilcloth. Do not use either soap or hot water, but moisten the rag slightly in kerosene. Rub the oil- cloth imtil it is perfectly clean, wring the cloth out of hot water, and dip SWEEPING DAY again in kerosene when necessary. Afterwards rub dry with a flannel cloth. Or wash with skimmed sweet milk or buttermilk, and rinse with a sponge and clear water. Polish with a little linseed oil or a cloth slightly dampened with new milk. To Wax Oilcloths and Linoleums. — First wash the floor as above and apply a thin coating of wax with a flannel cloth. Or use a floor oil mixed with wax. This gives a hard, smooth surface, which is easily wiped up and kept clean. To Kemove Spots on Oilcloth. — Anything hot placed on oilcloth turns it white. To remove these spots rub with alcohol and polish with a dry cloth. To Brighten Oilcloth. — Put a little salt in the water in which oilcloth is washed. This wUl brighten and fresh- en the colors with whiclj it is painted. CHAPTER X HOUSE CLEANING CLEANING THE CELLAR— CLEANING TBDE ATTIC AND CLOSETS- CLEANING THE CHAMBERS— TO CLEAN FLOOR COVERINGS —CLEANING AND REFINISHING WOOD FLOORS— CLEAN[NG PAINT— WHITEWASHING— PAPER HANGING— CARE OF WALLS- WINDOWS, DOORS, ETC.— CLEANING AND CARE OF FURNI- TURE—CLEANING PICTURE FRAMES-CLEANING BRIC-A-BRAC AND MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS— TO CLEAN MARBLE, BRICK, AND STONE— CLEANING KITCHEN STOVES AND OTHER METALS— PACKING In addition to the daily and weekly routine of housework it is customary to give the house and its furnisWngs a thorough overhauling and renova- ting once or twice a year, usually in the spring and fall. But this custom varies in different parts of the coun- try, and in cities is also quite differ- ent from what it is in rural neighbor- hoods. In cities, winter is the season when guests are received and most en- tertaining takes place; hence the fall house cleaning, as a preparation for the duties and festivities of the win- ter season, is likely to be the more important. In rural neighborhoods, however, sununer is the period of greatest ac- tivity, and the spring house cleaning is usually the more thorough and painstaking. Spring House Cleaning. — Spring house cleaning should ordinarily be postponed until the weather has be- come sufficiently settled, so that win- ter underwear, draperies, carpets, etc., may be stored away if desired, and so that the health of the household need not suffer by reason of the open win- dows and dampness attendant upon scrubbing floors and walls, whitewash- ing, painting, and the like. Most women, after constant confinement during the winter months, are more or less run down in the spring, and the change from the bracing tempera- ture of winter to the enervating warmth Of the first spring days is likely to result in a lowering of tone that may expose them to serious mis- chief from overexertion. For these reasons there is a gradual change of sentiment in favor of making spring house cleaning a comparatively simple affair, putting off the heavy work un- til the fall. But the spring house cleaning must be sufficiently thorough to renovate and protect ail woolens, furs, and feathers from the ravages of moths, to remove heavy hangings and draperies, and everything that impedes the free circulation of air during the heated term. Plan of Campaign. — The work of bouse cleaning will be very much sim- plified by thinking out in advance a systematic plan of campaign. In a blank book make an inventory of the principal contents of each room. Measure the floors and the width and length of the window shades needed. Ascertain the number of yards of carpet or matting, the number of roUs of wall paper and the yards of border required for every room in the house, the amount of paint or stain needed for the various floors; also the size of the dinirtg-room table- 260 HOUSE CLEANING 261 "jloths, the length and width of sheets, and the size of pillow slips for dif- ferent pillows. Divide the book in sections, assign a. number of pages to each room in the house, take accurate measurements, note them down, and preserve the book for future use. Con- sult it to determine what changes shall be made fax the rooms, what articles shaU be stored away, and what, if any, need to be repaired. Provide in advance the requisite amount of ma- terials of all sorts, and have them at hand when the work begins. William Morris says: "Have noth- ing in your house that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful." Hence before house clean- ing go through the house and critical- ly examine each obj ect. Some of them may have passed their usefulness, or your tastes may have changed and you may no longer regard them as beautiful. Then remove them without question. The art of successful living consists in getting along vrith as few articles of furniture as possible, rath- er than in accumulating many differ- ent pieces. Remember that every ad- ditional one is an additional care. If you decide to retain an article, consid- er, if it is in order or not, if it can be put in order, and in that case whether it can be done at home. Gather up such pieces as you decide to repair and take them to the family workshop. Consider the discarded articles to see if they can be given away, sold, or used for fuel, and if not, throw them together to make a bonfire to celebrate with when the house clean- ing is finished. Rules for House Cleaning. — It is a good rule in house cleaning to first clean the cellar, because it is the most difficult and often the most neglected part of the house. Afterwards begin with the attic and work down. Another good rule is to clean thor- oughly one room at a time, settling it as you go. Preparations for House Cleaning. — Experienced housewives arrange for house cleanii^g by preparing food in advance, boiling ham, baking beans, pies, bread, and cake, so as to be spared as far as possible the labor of cooking while house cleaning is go- ing on. WhUe house cleaning, dress appro- priately for the work. Some house- keepers wear a divided skirt or bloom- ers made of four widths of heavy dark skirting. These are gathered into bands and buttoned about the ankles and waist. They are valuable protectors for skirts, and facilitate climbing step- ladders, scrubbing floors, etc. Pull the sleeves up as far as you want them to go, and put elastic bands on the arms over the sleeves. Trim the finger nails as short as can be borne with comfort. This prevents their being broken or torn when obliged to work without gloves. Wear a dust cap, a big apron, and loose gloves. Half the disagreeableness of house cleaning is taken away by having a lotion to apply to parboiled and un- comfortable hands. Soak 2 or 3 ounces of quince seed over night, strain through cheese cloth, and add 3 quarts of water and 2 ounces each of glycer- in, boracic acid, and witch-hazel. This is one of the best of lotions. CUIASISO THE CELLAB To Clean Cellars. — Begin to clean house with the cellar. It is a hard job, and you may be inclined to neg- lect it if you wait till the rest of the work has been done. No part of the house cleaning is so important from the standpoint of sanitary cleanliness or, because it is out of sight, more likely to be neglected. First sweep all dust and cobwebs from rafters and ceiling; sweep the shelves and wash them with strong suds or soda and water; remove, empty, and clean bins and barrels that have contained vegetables, and set them out of doors exposed directly to the air and sunlight. If the cellar admits of thorough drainage, wash down the ceilings, walls, and floor with a hose, or dash water on them from pails by means of a large dip- per. Open the bulkhead windows and 262 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES sweep the floor, especially digging out the corners. Remove everything that is not necessary. The fewer objects to accumulate dust and to get in the way when cleaning, the better. Dissolve 2 pounds of copperas in 1 gallon of water, and sprinkle the walls and floor with this solution by means of an old whisk broom or watering pot having a fine spray. This is a good disinfectant and assists in driv- ing away rats and other vermin. Finally whitewash the walls with an old whitewash brush or old broom, and use plenty of whitewash, to which add copperas at the rate of i pound to 1 pound for each pailful. Vegetable Cellars, — If vegetables are kept in barrels or bins in the house cellar, they should be examined from time to time and picked over as soon as they begin to rot. Leaves from cabbage heads, celery tops, and other vegetable stuff not wanted should be carefully removed before they begin to spoil. Decaying organic matter of any kind is the favorite breeding ground of the germs of typhoid fever, diphtheria, and other contagious filth diseases, and decay is much assisted by dampness. Hence unless the cellar is perfectly dry, clean and free from rotten vegetables, those who are re- sponsible for its condition cannot in case of sickness have a clfear con- science. An outbreak of black diph- theria which caused the death of five children in a single family was traced by a physician directly to some de- cayed vegetable matter on the cellar floor. Or make an outdoor vegetable cel- lar by sinking a strong cask or box in the ground below the frost line. Knock out the bottom and let the vegetables rest on the ground. Pro- vide a water-tight cover in two layers, with sawdust or charcoal between. Or throw over the top straw or hay. Thus cabbages, celery, and the like may be kept fresh in winter without danger of contaminating the air of the house. To Keep Cellars Warm. — Make a flour paste containing a strong glue size, and with a whitewash brush apply one or more layers of building paper, brown paper, or even newspapers to the rafters of the ceiling, and let it come down over the sills and around the frames of windows to prevent draughts. The thicker the layer or layers of paper the better. This helps to keep the floors warm and to make the cellar frost proof. Care of Casks. — Keep an empty cask bunged up tight to keep it sweet. Tar casks slightly on the inside to assist in preserving salt meat. To sweeten a sour cask that has held pickles, vinegar, or wine, wash it with lime water, or throw in hot char- coal and ashes. Add water and let the cask soak. To remove must or other odors, wash with sulphuric acid and rinse with clear water, or whitewash with quicklime, or char the inside with a hot iron. In all cases rinse thorough- ly with scalding water before using. To Prevent Dampness in Cellars. — To avoid damp cellars furnish jets, gutters, and leaders to carry rain water from the roof to a cistern or away from the foundations of the house. Lay tile or other drains under the cellar floor to carry away water from springs or other natural mois- ture. Lay cellar walls in mortar made of water lime, and cover the cellar bottom and walls with hydraulic ce- ment, water lime, or concrete made by melted asphaltum poured upon a surface of gravel and tamped hard while hot. Or employ a layer of coal tar and asphaltum laid on a surface of gravel and covered with melted asphaltum applied hot. Finish with a layer of fine sand. Apply by means of a brush a thin layer of waterproof cement to the walls, floor, and sills. If tile or other drains underly the cellar floor, let the floor slant slightly to an opening in the drain so that water coming in from freshet or oth- erwise may be carried off, and so that, if desired, the floor and walls may be flushed with water. To Ventilate Cellars. — The upper part of the house being warmer than HOUSE CLEANING 263 the cellar, the warm air of the upper rooms creates, by rising, a suction which draws the cellar air into the rooms above through cracks in the cellar door, or through the doorway whenever the door is open. By this means any impurities or germs of dis- ease in the cellar are communicated freely to all parts of the house. Hence the importance of good ventilation in cellars. Locate cellar windows, when possi- ble, opposite one another so as to cre- ate a draught. Being placed near the ceiling, such windows afford good ven- tilation. But the best ventilator is a chimney reaching down to the cellar floor or resting on the foundation wall and commvmicating with the cellar by one or more good-sized openings. Have the cellar windows open freely by means of rods or otherwise, and keep them open in clear weather when- ever possible. To Remove Dampness. — Place in the cellar a large open box or pan con- taining fresh lime. This will tend to dry and purify the air. Change the lime as fast as it becomes air-slaked. Whitewash for Cellars. — Slake enough lime for a paUful of white- wash. Mix half a pint of flour with cold water to a smooth paste, thin with scalding water, and boil until it thickens. Pour this boiling hot into the whitewash and stir vigorously. Or use boiled rice strained through cheese cloth. Add a teacupful of the strained rice to a pailful of slaked lime. Cover cellar walls twice a year or oftener with whitewash, to which add copperas at the rate of 3 pounds to the gallon. Apply whitewash freely, especially in out-of-the-way corners, removing all shelves, etc., so as to cover the entire surface of the walls. To Disinfect Cellars. — Close win- dows and other apertures and stuff the cracks with burlap. Burn a quan- tity of sulphur in a suitable receptacle on the cellar floor. An ordinary tin pie plate covered with earth or sand may be used. Place on this live coals, on which sprinkle flowers of sulphur or brimstone. Take precautions to escape quickly so as not to breathe the fumes. To Prevent Dust in Cellars. — To minimize dust from furnaces, wet the ashes by throwing water on them from a dipper before taking them up. Or sprinkle them with water from a watering pot. Or sprinkle over them wet sawdust. This also prevents dust from rising into the upper rooms through the reg- isters. Bins for Cellars.— Have aU bins for use in the cellar small enough to be freely movable. Or use barrels, and place bins and barrels on planks turned on edge to lift them above the cellar bottom. Make a. sufficient number of swinging shelves by tacking pieces of board to the rafters so as to project downward, and suspend shelves on these to hold canned preserves and other articles in place of having shelves on the walls. Keep the walls free to admit of complete whitewashing. Pipes — To Prevent Prost. — Wrap exposed water pipes with bands of hay or straw twisted tight around them, or cover with the asbestos tubes that are on the market for this purpose. Pumps — To Prevent Freezing. — Re- move the lower valve and drive a tack into the under side of it, projecting in such a way that the valve cannot quite close. The pump will work as usual, but the water will gradually leak back into the well or cistern. Or have at hand a suitable hook of stout wire by which to lift the valve and let the water out of the pipe at night. ' To Thaw Pipes. — If the pipe is ac- cessible, wrap woolen cloths, as old pieces of underwear, carpet, and the Hke, thickly about it and pour on boiling water. This holds the heat and melts the ice gradually. Or, if possible, pour boiling water containing as much salt as it will dis- solve into the pipe above the frozen part. This will settle and dissolve the ice. To Clear Drainpipes. — Flush the pipe once a week with boiling water 264 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES containing sal soda. Rinse the kitchen sink daily with strong soda Water. To Stop Leaks. — For cold-water pipes apply a thick paste of yellow soap and whiting mixed with a little water. Or, if the leak is too large, wrap the pipe tightly with a tarred cloth bandage, melt the tar, and spread it over strong duck canvas or burlap cloth three or four inches wide. Be- gin to wind the bandage several inches from the leak and lap it one half or more upon itself at each round. For hot-water pipes mix iron filings with vinegar and sulphuric acid to a thick paste. Dry the pipe, fill the cracks with this mixture, and keep them dry imtU it sets. This is very durable. To Protect lead Pipes. — Coat the inside of the pipe with sulphide of lead. This is insoluble and cannot be acted upon by water. To effect this fill the pipes with a warm concentrat- ed solution of sulphide of potassium, and let stand fifteen or twenty min- utes. Then rinse it out. The sulphide coating will be formed by chemical action. To Clean Boilers. — To prevent scale forming on the inside of the boiler put into it two or three white oak saplings. These will be entirely dis- solved in three or four weeks, and the boiler will be clean. CLEAirmG THE ATTIC AND CLOSETS Closets and Drawers. — Choose a sunny day and empty the contents of bureau drawers, wardrobes, closets, and other storage places upon an old quilt or a sheet spread upon the lawn. Shake and dust these vigorously with a whisk broom, and sort them. Put in one pile ragged articles that are no longer useful except for carpet rags or to sell to the ragman; in another, those that are available for dusters, mops, dishcloths, and the like. Lay aside articles that need to be mended or renovated. Separate woolens and flannels, which require protection against moths, from cotton fabrics, which are moth proof. After remov- ing viath a whisk broom all traces of moths, hang the larger pieces on the line and leave the others out of doors exposed to direct sunshine. Meantime apply suitable moth de- stroyers to the insides of the drawers, wardrobes, and boxes that have been emptied. Take off the wall paper in the closets, as behind the wall paper is where you will find the nests of moths and other vermin. Wash the floors and walls with moth destroyers, and apply suitable preventives to cracks and openings. Wash out the insides of the drawers, and take them out to dry in the sun. Save fine towels that are too worn for further use and lay them in the bottom of the drawers, viath lavender between the folds. While the clothes on the line are airing, pack flannels, furs, feathers, etc., in mothproof paper bags or boxes to be stored away in the attic, and before the dew falls at night return cotton and other fabrics required for summer use to the drawers and ward- robes that have been cleansed and aired. Destroy with a hard heart every useless thing, and burn everything that you see no probability of need- ing in the near future. With the best of care odds and ends will accumu- late, and the labor of handling and preserving them in the hope of finding use for them by and by is often more than they are worth. But remember, if similar objects are classified and kept together, many uses may be found for them collective- ly. A lot of old stockings may be turned into a quilt. Old underwear is useful for dusters and many other purposes. Hence sort, classify, and arrange as much as you can, but when odds and ends are left over, throw them away. Drawers that Stick. — Now is the time to remedy the bureau drawer that sticks. If it is not quite dry when returned to its place, you will discover the spot that in damp weath- er is likely to swell and make trouble. Take a piece of common yellow soap. HOUSE CLEANING 265 moisten it, and rub freely the parts which are too tight. Also soap the under part of the drawer where it slides. Or apply a tallow candle. Or rub the parts freely with bacon rind. But the soap is likely to effect the more permanent cure. Periodicals. — Each spring the attic will reveal a pile of magazines and papers. Some of these may be thrown away, but in others there will be one or more stories or articles of especial interest. Take out the wire fasteners and sort the contents into fiction. "A PiU of Magazines. travel, biography, history, and the like. Take out of each pile only what is really wanted. Thus, for example, the best short stories may be collected and made into a valuable book. To bind these articles together, cut strips of manila paper IJ to 2 inches in width and the length of the maga- zines. Fold these lengthwise in the middle, and paste on either side. Slip the back edge of the printed pages into the creslse thus formed, fastening it securely with paste. Now thread a needle with strong thread and .sew the pages through and through to this rein- forcement. Place as many of the sepa- rate stories as desired together, bore holes through them i inch from the back edge near the top, bottom, and in the middle, and lace them together vnth a strong cord. Draw over the out- side of all a strong manila cover, past- ing it liberally to the back. Or the sheets may be sent to a book- binder and at a slight expense made into an interesting and valuable book. Or the periodicals will always be welcome at hospitals, schools, and oth- er institutions, which in many cases will send for them if notified that they may be had at the expense of removal. Curtains and Draperies. — Take down all curtains and draperies ; laun- der, fold, and store them before the house cleaning begins. Thus they will be out of the way and ready to be put up when papering, painting, and whitewashing are finished. How to Glean Booms. — Clean one room at a time, doing everything thor- oughly. Settle each room before go- ing to another. This avoids upsetting the whole house, and is much better than cleaning by floors and having all the bedrooms or all the living rooms upset at the same time. First take up the carpet and scrub the floor; then beat and clean the car- pet and hang it on the line, so that both the carpet and the floor from which it is taken may have all day to dry and air. Or, after the floor covering is taken up, tlie ceiling may be first cleaned, and papered or whitewashed, if neces- sary, and the walls papered before the floors are scrubbed, this being reserved for another day. Lastly, any neces- sary painting and varnishing may be done and the windows and woodwork cleaned. In cleaning paint use but little soap, as the alkali tends to injure paint and varnish. If paint is kept in good con- dition by being rubbed occasionally with a cloth moistened in kerosene, it will need little scrubbing at house- cleaning time. Last of all, stain or paint the floor, or relay the floor covering, and return furniture and pictures to their posi- tions. House-cleaning Hints. — Split open two short pieces of rubber hose and fasten them on the lower end of the stepladder. Turn them up on the 2Q6 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES sides of the supports, and nail them there. This prevents the stepladder from slipping on the bare floor. Use a stiff bristle brush, preferably of wood fiber, to clean the cracks and crevices of woodwork, iron beds, and the like. Lay the brush when wet with the bristle side down. This pre- vents the water from soaking into the wood and loosening the bristles. Or use a damp whisk broom that has served its time as a clothes brush to take dust from cracks and corners, carvings of furniture and woodwork, and to clean windows. If rinsed fre- quently it removes every particle of dust with little trouble and no injury. Have at hand a small stick 3 or 4 feet long and 1 inch in diameter, with a screw hook screwed in one end. This is always handy to reach for articles that have fallen out of the window, behind furniture, or into the water pail or barrel, to hang or take down pictxires, puU down escaped window shades, and for many other purposes. CLEAOTITQ THE CHAMBEBS To Clean Bedrooms. — ^Take down all curtains and draperies, if not already removed,' and carry them to the laun- dry. Put the bedding on the line, shake and beat it, and leave it to air. Take the mattress out of doors, and beat and air it. If the bed spring is exposed and of metal, take it out of doors and turn the hose on it or dash water on it from a pail. Let it dry in the sun. If the bedstead is of wood, wash it with water containing borax or am- monia, but do not use washing soda or soap, as the former will spoil the paint and the latter wiU leave a dis- agreeable odor. If the bedstead is of metal, wipe it with a cloth dipped in kerosene. Or brush it over with gasoline and wipe off with a dry towel. Rub the paint of wooden bedsteads with a cloth dipped in paraffin. This both cleans and freshens it. Remove extra blankets and quilts to the laundry. Take up carpets and rugs to be beaten and shaken, or if there is mat- ting on the floor and it is not neces- sary to take it up, sprinkle dry salt over it and wipe with a cloth wrung out of warm water. If the floor is of hard wood, wash it with gasoline as you would vrith water, and ventilate thoroughly before admitting a light. Polish with wax and suitable furniture polish. If the floor covering is drugget, scatter moist bran over it and let re- main several hours. When swept up the bran will take the dirt with it. Then scrub the drugget with hot water and ammonia by means of a stiff scrubbing brush, and afterwards wipe off with a soft cloth until the rinsing water is perfectly clear. To Renovate Hetal Beds. — If the enamel is worn from a white enameled bed, go over it with an additional coat of white enamel, or obtain gilt enamel 6o Over It witli Enamel.' and gild it. This gives the appearance of brass. The gilding wears better than white enamel and can be washed with gasoline. Or, if desired, give the white bed that needs renovating a coat of' black enamel. Cotton Blankets. — In sununer, cot- ton blankets and spreads, which are much cheaper than woolen ones, are to be preferred to woolen blankets or old-fashioned cotton quilts. They can HOUSE CLEANING 267 be easily washed and are more sani- tary. The aim should be in summer to have the bed coverings as light and easy to handle as possible. Eiderdown. — With use an eider- down quUt becomes compacted to- gether and loses its elasticity. Take it out of doors, shake and brush it, and expose it to sunshine for several hours. Spread it on the lawn and work over it with a stiff whisk broom to loosen the nap. Thus its elasticity may be restored, and it will again feel soft and downy. To Clean Mattresses. — Stains on mattresses may be removed by cover- ing them with dry laundry starch and moistening this with enough soap or soap jelly (made by melting scraps of hard soap in about their own bulk of boiling water) to form a thin paste, which will dry on, but not soak through into the mattress. Let dry, and brush off with a stiff whisk broom. Repeat if necessary. Afterwards sponge with ammonia and water. To Purify Feathers. — New feathers quickly become foul as the grease con- tained in the quills decays. Hence they require a, thorough cleansing to remove the animal oils and other greasy substances. Old feather beds may also be renovated. First, dry the feathers in the sun- shine or by a flre, and put them in a sack. Moisten two sheets of burlap, lay the feathers between these, and beat them to loosen the dirt, which will adhere to the wet cloth. Prepare a solution of limewater at the rate of J pound of quicklime to 1 gallon of water. Stir vigorously, allow to settle, and pour off the clear liquor. Soak the feathers In this for 3 or 4 days. Or use instead cooking soda at the rate of 1 teaspoonful to 1 quart of water. Take a large piece of cheese cloth and pour the limewater or soda water and feathers upon this so that the water will pass through, leaving the feathers in the cloth. Now pour cold water over them and rinse them well. Put on a wash boiler half full of water, and add a cupful of powdered borax. Put the feathers in this, bring them to a, boU, and again pour them on cheese cloth. Drain and squeeze dry.' Tie the corners of the cheese cloth together and hang it over a clothes- line, shaking occasionally until dry. Several days may be required to dry the feathers thoroughly. Do not use soap to wash feathers. Care of Feather Beds. — Many feath- er beds are in use which have been slept on for more than one generation without being renovated. When the feathers have been properly cleaned and the ticks cared for, they perhaps do not need renovating oftener than once in two or three years, but at least once in three years the feathers should be passed into a fresh tick, the ticking washed, and the feathers reno- vated before they are returned to it. After the tick has been washed, rub the inside with a mixture of equal parts of beeswax and turpentine and go over it with a warm iron. This will prevent the feathers from being soiled by perspiration or otherwise or from working through the tick. Or, once a year, place the feather beds and pillows out of doors on the grass or on a clean, flat roof, and allow them to be thoroughly drenched by a warm summer rain. Hang them to the limb of a tree to dry in the shade. To Clean Feather Pillows.^ — Feath- er pillows may be washed without re- moving the feathers by boiling them in borax water to which a small quan- tity of ammonia has been added. Use half a teacupful of borax to a boiler- ful of water, and add a tablespoonful of ammonia. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes. After removing the pillow from the boiler, scrub the tick, if bad- ly stained, by laying it on a wash- board and applying suds with a stiff brush. Rinse in two or three waters and hang on the line in a shady place to dry. Shake the pillow and change ends two or three times a day. Bring the pillows into the house before the dew falls or if it should come on to rain, as it takes a long time to dry HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES pillows at best. This process makes the feathers light, flaky, and sweet smelling. Or, if you do not wish to wash the feathers, pass them into pillow covers and hang them on the line to air while the ticks are being washed. Or put the pillows out of doors in a drenching rain storm. Afterwards squeeze as much water out of them as possible and hang them up to dry in a shady place. To Mend Old Blankets. — To mend all breaks and tears in old blankets, cover both sides with cheese cloth. Tack all together with white or col- ored yarn, and thus make a light quilt superior to a comforter. Finish the edge by crocheting around all four sides. To Store Bedding. — Line a large packing case with heavy wrapping paper by using brass tacks or by pasting paper to the inside of the case with flour paste and a whitewash brush. This will prevent moths from making their way through the cracks of the case and the folds of the paper. Air the bedclothes thoroughly, fold blankets in paper, and scatter freely among the folds hemlock or arbor- vitas sprigs, dry sweet flags, lavender, or sachet powder. These are equally as effective as moth balls, and give the bedclothes an agreeable odor. Paste the ends of the paper together and paste wrapping paper over the top of the case in such a way as to leave no cracks through which moths can find an entrance. Nail down the lid. Bedroom Ornaments. — Remove all unnecessary bric-a-brac from the bed- rooms and take unnecessary articles from dressing tables. A room looks much daintier without useless little things. To Clean the Bathroom. — Thor- oughly wash down walls and floors, clean out the medicine closet, and throw away everything that is not likely to be used. Look over the shelves carefully for cracks and crevices which may give lodgment to vermin, and wash them with strong soap and water. Clean the porcelain tub and basin with a cloth wet with kerosene. Pour in kerosene, if necessary, and scrub with a whisk broom or fiber brush. Remove stains from porcelain with dilute muriatic acid (1 part of acid to 10 parts of water), applied by means of a cotton swab held in- a cleft stick. Polish the metal work of faucets and pipes with a suitable cleaner. Or clean the bathtub, washbowl, etc., with gasoline and flannel. When painting the bathroom, if you wish the floor darker than the walls, without buying two shades of paint, get a light-colored paint, as lead color or light yellow, and after the walls are painted add to the remainder of the paint powdered burnt umber. This will give to the floor a darker color of the same general tone. TO CLEAN FLOOB COVEBINGS Floors in Summer. — Take up car- pets in the' spring, beat and clean them, roll them up, protect them against moths, and, if desired, store them away until the fall house clean- ing. Fill the floor cracks, if any, with a suitable wood filler, and paint or stain the floor, or cover with matting during summer. This plan saves time and labor in the care of floors, and prevents much dust from sweeping during the hot months. If carpets can be replaced by hard-wood floors and rugs, so much the better, and taking up carpets during the summer time is a step in the right direction. Or, if preferred, the carpets may, of course, be retm-ned to the floors after clean- ing. When taking up large rugs and art squares for the summer, roll them on sticks and sew them in canvas or bed ticking. These may be tied with strong cords and slung on hooks attached to the wall or ceiling in the attic or store- room. Thus they are well protected and out of the way. To Take Up Carpets. — First draw the tacks and pick them up without moving the carpet. Then begin at one HOUSE CLEANING end of the room and roll the carpet carefully to the other end. Double the roll on itself or, if two persons can assist, take it up at both ends and carry it out of doors to be cleaned. Roll up papers or carpet lining care- fully with the dust, and take them out of doors to be burned. If the papers are handled gently little or no dust will remain in the room, and the floor may be readily cleaned with soapsuds and a mop. Or, if no lining papers were used and the floors are covered with dust, sprinkle wet sawdust or bits of wet newspaper about the floor, and stir them gently with a broom to gather the dust. Sweep part of the room at a time, taking up the sweepings, and repeat with a fresh lot of sawdust or newspaper. Afterwards wash the floor with a mop. To Put Down Carpets. — Use an ordinary carpenter's hammer, taking care to choose a tool which has a square, flat head, and not a hammer the head of which has grown round. One or two blows with such a tool will drive a tack, where a small tack hammer will require six or seven. The best and most convenient carpet stretcher is a pair of rubber over- shoes. Tack the carpet down on one side, put on a pair of old rubbers, and scuff across the room. Repeat the process for the other three sides. If one person can stretch the carpet and another tack it as fast as it is stretched, it may be laid very quickly and with comparatively little effort. Oarpets — To Prevent Wear. — Before returning old carpets to the floor, rip up the seams and transpose the breadths, putting the least worn strips in place of those that are most worn; or turn the carpet end for end to change the wear. Or, if the carpet is ingrain, turn and use wrong side up for a season. Stair Carpets — To Prevent Wear. — Tack several thicknesses of newspaper or carpet lining or old carpet on the top of each step, having them deep enough to hang three of four inches over the edge. This pad prevents the stair carpet from wearing along the edge. It doubles the life of the stair carpet. To Uend a Rag Carpet. — Holes in rag carpet caused by the breaking of the warp may be mended by sewing back and forth on the sewing machine. Large holes may be mended in this manner so as not to be noticeable. When cutting out the good parts of an old rag carpet, sew across the rags back and forth before cutting. This prevents the carpet from ravel- ing when cut, and the edges of the good pieces may be sewed together with the seam held down. To Sweep Carpets. — Before taking up the carpet it should be well swept. The less dust it contains the quicker it can be beaten. Sprinkle with salt or corn meal, or with a mixture of salt and corn meal moistened with kerosene. Or, if fresh clippings from a lavni mower can be had, sprinkle the carpet with them. Or, if the carpet is of a dark color, with wet tea leaves. Tea leaves may stain a light-colored car- pet. Or wring a newspaper out of cold water until it is damp, but not wet. Tear in small pieces and sprinkle with them. Sweep thoroughly before taking up the tacks. To Beat Carpets. — If you have a clean green lawn, draw the carpet " Use a Wire Beater." over the grass for some distance, turn, and draw back on the other side. Beat 270 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES the carpet v/hile lying on the grass. Reverse the carpet so as to draw it over another spot, and beat on the other side. Then hang it over a line and beat until clean. Beat first thor- oughly on the wrong side and after- wards more gently on the right. To beat carpets, use preferably a wire beater made by bending a heavy piece of wire 8 or 10 feet long and J inch or more in thickness. Of this form a loop, and attach the ends to a convenient handle, as a broomstick. Or use flexible hickory switches rather than heavy sticks, which may injure the warp of the carpet. To Clean Carpets. — If a carpet is much soiled it may require washing or scouring after having been beaten. This may be done after the carpet has been laid on the floor. First remove stains and grease spots. Next wash, then, with a stiff bristle brush the size of a nailbrush, apply suds made with warm water and one of the following cleansing mixtures: Have at hand a pail containing suds, another containing clear hot rinsing water, a stiff bristle brush, a large sponge, and a number of coarse porous cloths. Use as little water as possible. Take one breadth at a time and scrub what can be reached with- out moving. Rinse this section imme- diately with a sponge wrung out of clear water and dry with a coarse cloth before proceeding to the next. Soap soiled spots with any good hard white soap dipped in water. Take about IJ yards at a time and work quickly, so that the water wiU not soak into the carpet. Or pure soapsuds made by dissolv- ing 1 bar of castile of other hard white soap in 2 gallons of water. Or one bar of hard white soap, 1 tablespoonful each of borax, washing soda, fuller's earth, and salts of tar- tar. Cut 'the soap fine, mix the in- gredients in a kettle, add 1 gallon of boUing water, and stir until all are dissolved. Or 1 pint of ox gall dissolved in 1 quart of cold water. Apply with a scrubbing brush until a lather is formed. Rub pure ox gall on soiled places, rinse, and dry as above. Or dissolve 1 bar of hard white soap in 1 gallon of water. Dissolve 4 ounces of borax and 4 ounces of sal soda in 4 gallons of water; mix, remove from the fire, and add J pint of alcohol, stirring well. Apply when cold. Finally, open the windows and al- low the carpet to thoroughly dry be- fore the room is used. Kindling a fire, if convenient, will assist in drying. Or ingrain carpets may be ripped into breadths and washed in the tub like other woolen goods with soap and water, or hung out on the line during a warm summer rain. Any of these methods is suitable for all forms of carpets or rugs of similar materials, as Oriental, Smyrna, and domestic rugs, art squares, and the like. To Clean Oriental and Other Rugs. — Oriental rugs and other rugs having fast colors may be scrubbed with soap and water. Or any of the above cleans- ing mixtures. Tack the rug on a bare floor, as a porch or piazza, and pro- ceed as with a carpet. The following mixture is especially recommended for the best quality of rugs or carpets and other woolen fab- rics: dissolve 8 oimces of good white soap in the same quantity of boiling water; add 10 ounces of aqua am- monia, 5 ounces of alcohol, 5 ounces of glycerin, and 4 ounces of ether or chloroform. Keep in a fruit jar or large glass bottle and cork tightly. Use 1 tablespoonful of this prep- aration to a pailful of warm water, and apply with a stiff brush. Or for obstinate stains use a stronger solu- tion. To Wash Goatskin Rugs. — Wash goatskin rugs in gasoline, or in a mix- ture of gasoline and pure soapsuds made of hard white soap. To Freshen Faded Carpets.— After carpets have been cleaned and laid, the colors, if faded, may be freshened by sprinkling the carpet with strong salt water and sweeping hard. Or dampen a cloth with ammonia HOUSE CLEANING 271 and rub over the surface of the carpet. Or put i pint of turpentine in about li gallons of water. Wring a cloth out of this solution and with it rub the carpet. Or go over the carpet with a broom or whisk broom moistened with gaso- line. Or put 1 cupful of cold tea and 1 tablespoonful of turpentine in 2 quarts of warm water. Dip the broom in this before sweeping. Or put 3 tablespoonfuls of turpen- tine and 4 of salt in 3 gallons of water, and moisten the broom with it. Or put 1 gill of ox gall in 1 gallon of water and apply with a cloth wrung out so that it will not drip. Or dissolve 1 teaspoonful of alum in 1 gallon of water. Or apply to the patterns suitable dyestuffs or water colors mixed with gimi arable, following the outline of the design with a water-color brush. Or any of the above may be ap- plied with a clean mop if care is taken to wring it out so that it wiU be damp rather than wet. The above will not only brighten and set the colors of a carpet, restore faded colors, and pre- vent fresh colors from fading, but will also act as preventives against moths, and to some extent kill germs that may be present in the carpet. To Clean Bag Carpets. — Shake and beat the carpet, drag it across the lawn a few times to remove dust by contact with the soft grass, and leave it spread on the grass or hung over a line during a gentle rain. Remove any grease spots with 'a suitable cleanser. To Remove Grease from Carpets. — Substances recommended for taking grease out of a carpet are ammonia, saltpeter, ox gall, chloroform, ether, gasoline, fuller's earth, potter's clay, and various combinations of these. To Remove Grease. — Apply gaso- line, benzine, or naphtha with a sponge or stiff scrubbing brush. Or, if the grease is fresh, cover the spot with a layer of French chalk or fuller's earth. Lay a piece of brown paper or blotting paper upon the chalk,, and place on it a hot flatiron. Change the iron occasionally. The grease will be melted and absorbed by the chalk and powder. Or apply pure ox gall with a stiff brush. Or apply chloroform or ether with a toothbrush. Or shave 2 ounces of hard white soap in 2 quarts of water. Add 2 oimces of aqua ammonia, 1 ounce of glycerin, and 1 ounce of ether; mix and a1)ply with a stiff brush. Or shave and dissolve 2 ounces of hard white soap in 1 quart of water. Add 2 ounces of ammonia and 1 tea- spoonful of saltpeter and apply with a brush. To Remove Ink Stains. — Cover quickly with dry salt or starch. Take this up with a spoon as it soaks up the ink, but do not rub or sweep it. It will take up the surplus and pre- vent the spot from spreading. Leave the spot covered with dry salt and test to see the kind of ink spilled. Put some of the ink on a piece of writing paper and allow it to dry. Or, better, take some writing made with the same ink that has stood sev- eral days and test that. First apply water, and if the ink runs, after hav- ing been thoroughly dried, it is proba- bly stylographic ink, made of coal-tar products, eosin or nigrosine. In this case you must not use buttermilk or any acid. Use instead an alkali, as potash lye or sal soda, diluted with water. If the dry ink does not run when touched with water, it is proba- bly an iron-gall ink or logwood ink with or without aniline dyes. For these inks use dilute sulphuric acid, 1 part of acid to 10 parts of water. If this takes out the color, restore it with aqua ammonia. Or cover with fresh salt or starch, and moisten with buttermilk or salts of sorrel or tartaric acid, and let stand until dry. Repeat if necessary. If the colors fade, apply aqua am- monia. To Remove Kerosene. — To remove kerosene spilled on a carpet, cover the 272 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES spot with blotting paper or brown paper and press with a hot iron. Re- peat if necessary. Or cover with corn meal, starch, or salt, and let stand until dry. To Eemove Whitewash.— -Scrub with soapsuds applied with a brush, and renew the color by applying aqua am- monia, vinegar, or other acid. To Remove Soot. — To remove soot which sometimes, in case of a defec- tive flue or turning up a lamp too high, fills a room and falls on the carpet, sprinkle the floor liberally with corn meal and sweep carefully a little at a time, taking up the sweepings as you go and before they are trod- den on. Continue to apply corn meal and sweep until the soot is all removed. To Take Tip Matting. — Take up the matting, roll it up, and shake as much dust from it as possible by jarring it on the floor. UnroU it on a green lawn and apply the hose to it, or dash pails of water on it until it is thor- oughly clean. This should be done on a hot day, and the matting should be thoroughly dried in the open air as quickly as possible. Take it in before the dew falls and air it again the second day if it does not quite dry the first. Or draw the matting over a table and apply moist corn meal with a scrubbing brush, thoroughly cleaning a section at a time. Or scrub with bran water. To Clean Matting on the Floor. — Matting should not be washed or scrubbed with soapy water, as damp- ness is injurious to it. It may be swept with a broom previously dipped in hot water, and afterwards gone over with a flannel cloth or sponge dipped in salt and water. The salt wiU freshen the colors and prevent the matting from turning yellow. It should be quickly dried with a second cloth before the water soaks in. Or borax may be used in the water in place of salt. Afterwards, to give it a gloss and freshen the colors, it may be gone over with a cloth slightly moistened in fresh milk. To Bemove Stains from Hatting. — Matting that has been badly stained may be cleaned by washing with a solution of oxalic acid in the propor- tion of 1 oimce of acid to 1 pint of water. Apply to the stain with a stiff brush, use as little of the solution as possible, and afterwards wipe off with a dry cloth. Care must be taken to throw out the water immediately after using, as oxalic acid is a deadly poison. To Hemove Grease Spots. — Cover with French chalk and moisten with turpentine. Let this stand for a. few days, and .then scrub off with a stiff brush. To lay Matting. — Before laying matting, cover the floor with several thicknesses of old newspapers. Mat- tftig is porous and lets the dust through. The paper catches this and admits of its being easily removed at house-cleaning time. Paper also pro- tects the matting from the sharp and uneven edges of the boards. Matting may be tacked down with ordinary carpet tacks or double- pointed brads. Or the different breadths may be sewed together with strong linen or cotton thread, using loose buttonhole stitches an inch or an inch and a half apart. To prevent tacking, the edges may be fastened with flour paste. Or, to avoid sewing, the edges of the several breadths may be pasted down. Pieces of matting may also be used as rugs on hard-wood floors, especially for bedroom use in summer, by sewing the breadths together with buttonhole stitches and binding the cut ends with cotton braid or tape. To lay Oilcloths. — Oilcloths may be put down without the use of tacks by making a cooked paste of flour and water somewhat thicker than flour starch. Lay the oilcloth in place and apply a strip of paste about an inch wide first to the floor and afterwards to the edge of the oilcloth. Stand a heavy board edgewise over this strip until the oilcloth sticks. Or, if Conditions are right, merely HOUSE CLEANING 273 press the oilcloth down with the hands. The edges may be fastened to the floor in the same manner. Thus the oilcloth can be taken up when necessary without the injury caused by tacks and with little difB- culty. To Repair a Smyrna Rug. — Shak- ing a Smyrna rug often ravels out the ends. Continue this raveling so as to expose two or three inches of the woolen filling. Tie and knot the loose threads to form a fringe. This will prevent additional raveling, and the fringe will stand as much wear as if new. Use the pattern as a guide, so as to make both ends uniform. To Patch Rug:s and Carpets. — A hole in a rug or carpet may be patched with the rubber mending tissue used for patching garments. Dampen a piece of the same material or of bur- lap, lay over this a piece of the rub- ber mending tissue, and place it di- rectly under the hole. Over all lay a piece of brown paper and press with a hot iron. Clip off any frayed edges with scissors or darn them with the ravelings. To Clean Sheepskin Rugs. — ^A sheep- skin rug should never be inmiersed in water. The less the pelt side is wet the better. Hence tack the skin on a barrel, pelt side down, and apply hot soapsuds to the wool side with a stiff, clean scrubbing brush until it is clean. Rinse well by dashing cold water upon it, putting in the last water suf- ficient bluing to make the wool ap- pear white, and leave it on the barrel to dry. This process does not expose the pelt to the rays of the sun, which would cause it to become dry and hard. After the wool is dry go over it carefully with a clean currycomb or other coarse comb to prevent the wool from matting. It will thus be left fluffy and white as snow. Stair Carpets. — The better plan is to leave the stairs uncarpeted, but if a stair carpet is used the steps should be padded, especially over the edges, as otherwise the carpet will tend to wear along the edge. For this pur- pose use cotton batting or carpet felt or folded newspapers, tacking them at the back of each step and allowing them to fail two or three inches over the edge. This will also assist in dead- ening the sound of footsteps. ClEAITIirG AUD REFINISHING WOOD FLOORS Cracks in Floors. — Place in a saucepan 1 pound of pastry flour and rub up with a little cold water un- til free from lumps. Add 3 quarts of boiling water, place on the stove, bring to a boil, and stir in 1 table- spoonful of alum. Cut a quantity of newspaper into fine bits and stir it into this paste until it is about as thick as putty. Boil and stir until the mass is of a uniform consistency. Fill the cracks with this by means of a putty knife. Or a case knife with the point broken or filed square across will answer the purpose. Be sure to crowd it into the crack as deep as possible and finish level with the surface. This hardens like papier- mach^, is of similar appearance and nearly as hard as the wood itself, and is very durable. Or make a strong glue size of 1 ounce of glue to 16 ounces of water, and while boiling hot stir in bits of newspaper as above; or equal quanti- ties of fine sawdust and prepared chalk; or plaster of Paris, and apply as above. Any of these may be mixed with coloring matter to match the boards. Or cracks may be fiUed with putty. But this is not equally good, since with shellac or varnish it shows through, and is of a slightly different color than the wood. Oil for Floors. — To oil floors, use linseed oil boiled. First remove all previous wax, paint, or varnish, wash the floor clean and let it dry. Ap- ply the oil with a paint brush, keep- ing it at the boiling point by means of a small alcohol stove or other- wise. One or two coats of oil, applied twice a year, will greatly improve kitchen or other rough wood floors, 274 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVEEIES and the addition of a coat of wax wUl improve the finish and prevent the oil from soiling anything. An oiled floor should be cared for In the same manner as a waxed floor, without the use of soap, washing powder, or an alkali. To Color Floor Oil. — Add J table- spoonful of burnt umber to each quart of oil to darken it. Or an equal amount of yellow ocher to make it light. Stains for Floors. — Ordinary oil and lead paints are not suitable for floors for two reasons: they tend to soften the wood, and also to crack, chip, and peel, or wear away in spots that are most trodden, so as to give the floor an uneven appearance. Hence suitable stain^ (which are the same colored pigments that are used in paints thinned with oils so as to penetrate into the fiber of the wood, but without lead) are better for this purpose. Or the pigment may be applied in a vehicle of glue size. Or various dyestuffs, as aniline and other dyes, may be applied, either dissolved in water or oil. But the following wUl be found the most generally satisfactory: For a, floor 16 feet square, or ap- proximately 250 square feet of floor space, one heavy or two thin coats, mix 3 quarts of cold-drawn linseed oil and 1 quart of turpentine, to which add 4 ounces of Japan dryer. Stir in about 3 heaping tablespoon- fuls of any desired pigment or mix- ture of pigment, or enough to bring the whole to about the consistency of ordinary lead and oil paint, and bring to a boil over a slow fire. Dis- solve with gentle heat 2 or 3 ounces of yellow beeswax in a little tur- pentine, taking care that the tur- pentine does not catch fire. Stir in the wax, remove from the fire, and when about lukewarm, thin with tur- pentine to about the consistency of new milk. Try the stain on a piece of the same kind of wood as the floor before using, to see if the color is right. Soft wood like pine will absorb more of the color than hard wood like maple. Hence it is im- portant to thin the stain to the right consistency to get the desired effect. Take care to apply the stain evenly with the brush, as in painting, and lay it on freely the way of the grain, rather than against it. The addition of turpentine causes the stain to strike into the wood. Or in place of cold-drawn linseed oil with turpentine, use boiled linseed oil mixed with any desired pigment, and apply boiling hot. Keep the oil at the boiling point by means of an alcohol stove or otherwise. Or dissolve 3 ounces of glue in Si quarts of soft water. Remove from the stove and stir in 3 pounds of yellow ocher. Apply with a paint brush while hot, and foUow with a coat of boiled linseed oil. Let stand over night before walking on it. Or to give the floor a deep black like ebony, boU 1 pound of logwood chips in 2 quarts of water down to 1 quart, and apply one or two coats with a paint brush. When dry, fol- low with a strong solution of sul- phate of iron in water. Afterwards, when dry, apply a thin coat of boiled linseed oil, wax, and polish. Or to 6 quarts of caustic-potash lye made from wood ashes add 1 pound of copperas more or less, to give a light or dark oak shade as de- sired, and apply one or more coats with a brush. When dry, varnish the floor, wax, and polish. Pigment for Stains. — ^Add any of the following pigments in the form of dry powder at the rate of about 2 heaping tablespoonfuls to the gal- lon of stain, to obtain the colors mentioned : To imitate mahogany, use burnt sienna. For black .walnut, burnt um- ber or Vandyke brown. For cherry, burnt sienna mixed vrith iron oxide. For yellow, raw sienna, yellow ocher, or raw umber. Or any of the above may be combined freely to form tints or shades as desired. Experi- ments may be made by adding the pigments a little at a time and test- HOUSE CLEANING 275 ing the color from time to time on a piece of board of the same kind of wood as the floor is made of. Varnish for Stained Floors. — Place in a 6-quart saucepan about 10 ounces of linseed oil. Bring to a boil over a brisk fire, stirring con- stantly, and stir in 3 ounces of pure white borate of manganese in very fine powder. Heat separately 8 pounds of linseed oil to the boUing point, and add it to the first solution in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Continue to heat the mixture as hot as possible without burning. Stir constantly and boil for half an hour. Take off the stove and strain through cheese cloth. Apply one or two coats while hot, and foUow when dry with shellac or hard white copal varnish. Or oil stains may be followed by ordinary shellac varnish with the ad- dition of 4 ounces of cold-drawn lin- seed oil to each quart of varnish. One quart of varnish wUl be required for a floor 12 by 13 or about ISO square feet of surface. To Clean Stained Floors. — Obtain a quantity of coarse sawdust of non- resinous wood free from dust or dirt, and store it in a bin where it will be kept dry and clean. Scatter this sawdust freely over the floor and scrub the floor with it by means of a stiff scrubbing brush, as if using water. The sawdust may then be swept up and burned, and the floor wiped up with a soft cloth drawn over the head of a broom. This is suitable treatment for unpainted, waxed, or varnished floors if much dirt has been tracked in upon them. Or wring a mop out of kerosene oil and wipe up with this. Use about 1 quart for an ordinary floor. Use for this purpose only refined kero- sene of the best' quality, but do not use it freely on oak, as it tends to darken the wood. Care of Oil-stained Floors. — An oil-stained • floor will not soak up grease or show spots like a bare floor, and will not require scouring. It may be wiped up by means of a mop wrung out in clear warm water. but do not use soft soap, washing powders, or any alkali on an oiled surface, as the alkali will dissolve the oU. Oil-stained floors may be pol- ished with wax or turpentine if de- sired. Or the oa stain may be followed by one or more coats of hard white copal or sheUac varnish before the wax is added. To Clean Wood Floors. — Detergents recommended for cleaning kitchen floors and other coarse and unpainted woodwork are caustic potash and soda " Clean a Small Section, lyes, soft soap, sand, lime, chloride of lime, ammonia, kerosene, gasoline, and various mixtures of these. To scrub a wood floor, first take up grease spots. Then apply hot soap- suds with a scrubbing brush or mop, rinse with clear water, and wipe dry. Clean and dry a small section of the floor at a time and change the water frequently. Mops and Pails. — ^A strong pail fit- ted with a small wringer such as is used by janitors of large buildings will be found a great convenience. To save stooping, place this on a chair. Use two mops of soft woolen rags, one of small size for washing the floor, and a larger one for wiping dry. 276 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES TTnpaiilted Floors. — An unpainted board floor, "white enough to eat off," as the homely saying goes, is very attractive, but requires a good deal of hard work. Our grandmoth- ers used to cover unpainted floors with sand. Thus the family, in the process of walking to and fro, kept the floor boards scoured to a snowy whiteness. This is still a good way to whiten an unpainted board floor. Sprinkle the floor freely with clean "A Pail with a Small Wringer." white sand, and if there is no objec- tion, let it remain a few days. Or the floor may be scoured with dry sand by means of a stiff scrubbing brush. The best sand for this pur- pose Is obtained by purchasing mar- ble clippings and heating them to redness in an old iron kettle or other- wise. When cold, they may be read- ily pulverized. Or prepare a scouring mixture composed of 3 parts of sand, 2 parts of soft soap or soap jelly, and 1 part of lime. Apply with a stiff scrubbing brush, rinse with clear water, and rub dry with a flannel cloth. This has the additional advantage that it kiUs vermin. Or mix equal parts of slaked lime and calcinated soda. Let stand about an hour and add eight times their weight of cold water. Place on the fire and bring to a boU. Wet the floor with this by means of a mop. Let stand over night to dry. Next morning scrub by means of a stiff brush with scouring sand and water. Or moisten a thin flannel cloth with kerosene, draw it over the head of a broom, and wipe up the floor each day with this. It removes dust and grease, and thus obviates the necessity for scrubbing oftener than once every two or three weeks. Or scatter sand over the floor and with an old whisk broom sprinkle upon the sand a solution of 1 pound of caustic potash or soda in 1 quart of water. Scrub with hot water and scrubbing brush, or mop, rinse, and dry. Or apply soapsuds and sal soda. Or dissolve tmslaked lime in potash lye and apply with a mop. Or add 1 tablespoonful of ammonia to a pail of water. Or, for musty floors, use chloride of lime, J pound to a pailful of water. Spots and Stains.— -Scatter ground quartz-stone sand, or marble sand, over the stain. Pour over it a strong solution of caustic soda or potash at the rate of 1 pound to a pint of wa- ter, and scrub by means of a stiff bristle brush wet in soapsuds. Or scour with a mixture of 1 part of chloride of lime and 3 parts of sand. This vriU bleach the boards and destroy vermin. To remove whitewash, scrub with vinegar and water. To remove mold, first scour with soap and sand, then sprinkle with chloride of lime. Pour on boiling water and scrub by means of a stiff brush. To Remove Grease. — To prevent hot grease from sinking into the floor, sop cold water on it with a cloth to harden it. Scrape off what is on the surface with a dull knife. Remove the stain Vith a wet cloth sprinkled with baking soda. HOUSE CLEANING 277| Or mix equal parts of fuller's earth or pearlash to a paste with boiling water. Cover the grease spot, and let stand over night. Scour by means of a stiff brush with sand or other cleanser. Or kill the grease by pouring tur- pentine over it and then scour as above. Or cover the spot with slaked lime. Wet the lime and let it stand over night. Remove it and wash the spot vidth a cloth wet in soda and water. Or sponge with gasoline, but take care not to work near a lighted stove. Greasy walls and other wood- work may first be rubbed with gaso- line to kill the grease before wash- ing them. Or wash greasy paint with fresh slaked lime dUuted to the consist- ency of milk. Let dry and rub off. Repeat if necessary. Or sprinkle a grease spot with whiting, fuller's earth, or laundry starch. Lay blotting paper or brown paper over it and over that a hot flatiron. Let stand until cold. Re- peat if necessary. Or apply a paste of wood ashes and soap. Let stand over night, and wa«h off with soda and water. Re- peat if necessary. Or apply sand mixed with chlo- ride of lime, and scrub with a stiff brush. Or scrub with a mixture of pow- dered pumice stone and any strong washing powder. To Remove Ink Spots from Floors. — If the ink contains coal-tar products, eosin or nigrosine, use a strong alkali, as caustic soda or pot- ash; otherwise use a strong acid, as muriatic acid, vinegar, salts of lemon, or oxalic acid diluted with water. Dissolve a solution of 1 part of oxalic acid and 10 parts of boiling water. Apply by means of a cloth, and afterwards rinse with water con- taining sal soda to neutralize the acid. Or cover the ink spots with a paste of chloride of lime moistened with water. Or scour out the ink spots with a solution of 1 part of sulphuric acid in 20 parts of water, applied by means of a stiff scrubbing brush with sand and water. Rinse with a strong so- lution of ammonia or sal soda in water. CLEANING FAINT To Clean faint. — To clean paint and varnish, whiting, fuller's earth, cold tea, wood ashes, kerosene, soda, ammonia, turpentine, and bran wa- ter are all recommended. Do not use much soap or washing powders containing free alkali to clean paint, nor any soap at all to clean varnish. Soap tends to streak or to remove paint. Keep the water warm, but not hot, and change frequently. Use a flannel cloth or chamois, as cotton and similar goods leave lint, which sticks to the paint. Or use outing flannel or flannel- ette. Old underwear makes good wash cloths for woodwork. Moisture is good for woodwork, and hence it should be wiped off once a week with a damp cloth, and will be im- proved by a thorough washing sev- eral times a year. If woodwork is too dry, it tends to shrink. Hence -it is important to wash woodwork for the sake of moisture as well as for the sake of cleanliness. Beware of recipes which call for soft soap, lye, and strong soapsuds to clean paint. They will remove the dirt, but in time vdll take the paint with it. To Clean White Paint and Var- nish. — To clean white and other delicate colored paints and varnish, moisten chamois or flannel cloth with warm water, dip it in whiting or fuller's earth, and rub over the surface gently. This will remove the dirt and leave the paint as bright as new. Rinse with clear water and dry with a soft cloth. Fuller's earth is an excellent sub- stitute for soap. 278 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or, for white paint, moisten a cloth in mUk, dip it in whiting or fuller's earth, and apply. Or, to wash varnish or delicate paint, use cold tea, with or without whiting or fuller's earth. Apply with flannel and rub until clean. Or boU a pound of bran in a gal- lon of water and with it wash the paint. This will thoroughly clean the most delicate surfaces without inj uring them. To Clean Coftrse Paint. — First go over it with a cloth dipped in kero- sene to loosen the smoke and grime. Then rinse with J teacupful of kero- sene in 1 gallon of water, and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Or mix baking soda with water to form a thin paste. Smear the paint with this and wipe ojSf with a cloth wrung out of clear warm wa- ter. Cover a small surface at a time and remove the soda before it dries. Or wet a cloth in strong soda and water, wash the paint quickly, rinse with clear water, and dry at once. This should not be used on varnish or delicate paint. The cloth should be damp rather than wet. Or mix 1 tablespoonful of am- monia with 1 quart or more of warm water for coarse or dirty woodwork. This saves labor and takes off the dirt, but should not be used on varnish or delicate painted surfaces. Or dissolve 1 bar of hard white soap in 1 gallon of boiling water. Add 1 tablespoonful each of sal soda and saltpeter and 2 tablespoon- fuls of ammonia. Bottle and cork tightly for future use. Or mix 1 quart of sweet oil vrith 1 pint of turpentine and apply. To Polish Woodwork. — Mix equal parts of lard oil and turpentine, or 2 parts of sweet oil to 1 part of turpentine, and rub the woodwork lightly with a cloth saturated with the mixture. This may be used on any painted surface after washing. To Remove Smoke Stains. — To re- move smoke stains, wet a cloth, dip it into very fine sifted wood or coal ashes, and scour the paint clean. To Remove Katch Stains. — ^To re- move the marks left by scratching matches on paint, rub gently with a slice of fresh lemon and rinse with clear water, using a soft cloth. To Remove Paint. — Detergents recommended for removing paint from woodwork are turpentine, ben- zine, gasoline, chloroform, oxalic acid, ether, alcohol, caustic potash, sal soda, and quicklime. When paint begins to check, it indicates that its ingredients were impure, and it must be removed. To soften the paint, apply with a paint brush wood alcohol, spirits of turpentine, benzine, or a strong so- lution of equal parts of oxalic acid and water. Any of these wiQ soften the paint so that it can be wiped off with a coarse cloth or scrubbed away. Repeat as often as necessary. Or, if these do not soften the paint, apply chloroform, either alone or mixed with an equal quantity of spirits of anunonia. Moisten only a small surface, and scrape off the paint while moist before proceeding farther. Or slake 3 pounds of quicklime, add 1 pound of potash, and dilute with water to the consistency of cream. Apply with a paint brush and let stand over night. Remove by washing the surface with a flan- nel cloth or mop dipped in a strong solution of sal soda and ammonia. Or scrub with a stiff scrubbing brush. Or dissolve a bar of hard yellow soap in twice its bulk of water. When cool, add 1 tablespoonful of potash lye and i cupful of kerosene. Before the mixture sets, apply to the woodwork with a paint brush. After 34 hours apply a strong so- lution of sal soda with a scrubbing brush. Or paint may be burned off by going over the surface with a flat flame produced by a regular lamp made for that purpose, called a "paint burner." HOUSE CLEANING 279 Or apply, a red-hot iron. Take care to remove the paint as soon as it is soft and before the wood is charred or burned. To Bemove Putty. — Go over tlie surface of the putty with a red-hot poker or other iron, taking care not to burn or char the woodwork. The putty can then be peeled off with a blunt knife blade. Or with a brush apply a paste made of soap jelly containing caus- tic potash or soda. Or apply dilute sulphuric, nitric, or muriatic acid with a brush. But if any of these soaks into the wood- work, it tends to rot the frames. Hence burning is the better method. To Destroy the Odor of Faint. — FiU a paU partly full of hay and pour over it boiling water. Let it stand in the room which has been painted. WHITEWASHIITG Before applying whitewash, go over the wall or ceiling with a brush or dust cloth to remove dust, and wash with clear water. Fill all cracks and broken places with new plaster. Cut away the edges of broken places to make a square edge. Fill small cracks and bre^s with plaster of Paris. Do not apply whitewash until the surface is quite dry. Give two or more coats as needed. To Prepare Whitewash. — The prin- cipal ingredients in various kinds of whitewash are slaked lime, whiting, Paris white or sulphate of baryta, oxide and sulphate of zinc, alum, sugar, rice and wheat flour, and glue mixed with milk or water. These ingredients are used in various com- binations. The addition of a little bluing will make a clearer white, and a small amount of salt assists by making the whitewash stick bet- ter. The following mixtures are recom- mended: Dissolve 2 ounces of fresh slaked lime in a small amount of milk to the consistency of cream. Add suf- ficient milk to make 8 quarts and stir in slowly 5 pounds of whiting. Mix the whole mass thoroughly by beating with a wooden spoon or an egg beater. For a clear white, add a little bluing. For a cream color, add a small amount of ocher, or tint with any other coloring matter as desired. Or mix 4 potmds of Spanish whit- ing with cold water to the consist- ency of milk. Dissolve 2 ounces of pure white glue in hot water over a slow fire, and pour it into the whit- ing in a thin stream while hot, stir- ring thoroughly. Or slake a sufficient amount of lime in water to make a pailful of whitewash, and while still hot stir in a pint of flour boiled with water to form a thin cooked starch. Stir well and dilute with hot water to the right consistency. Or prepare a wash of slaked lime in a pail or tub and strain through cheese cloth. Mix 4 ounces of whit- ing or pulverized burnt alum, 3 pounds of sugar, and 2 quarts of rice flour with hot water and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Add this mixture to 1 pailful of sifted lime wash. Add also 1 pound of best white glue dissolved in boiling water over a slow fire. This is a very briUiant and durable wash and will last for many years. Or slake 8 quarts of lime, and add 1 pound of sulphate of zinc and i poimd of common salt dissolved in water. This is a hard, firm wash that will not crack. Or mix 6 pounds of Paris white with cold water to form a paste, and dilute with hot water to the consist- ency of milk. Stir in 4 ounces of the best white glue dissolved in boiling water over a slow fire. This is a cheap wash and gives a fine, bril- liant surface. To Color Whitewash. — For a fine clear white, add a little bluing. For a reddish pink, add Spanish brown. For a red stone color, mix com- mon clay with Spanish brown. 280 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES For yellow, add yellow ocher (or chrome yellow, which 'goes farther and makes a better shade). For gray or lead color, add lamp- black. For cream color, yellow ocher. For stone color, 3 parts each of umber and lampblack. For fawn color, 4 parts of umber, 2 parts of Indian red, and 1 part of lampblack. Do not use green with whitewash. The quantity of coloring matter required depends upon the amount of whitewash and the warmth of the tint desired, and must be deter- mined by experiment, but approxi- mately two or three pounds to a pailful of wash wUl be advisable. Whitewash for Outdoor Use. — To make a good whitewash for fences, outbuildings, barns, stucco, and oth- er surfaces exposed to the weather, slake 12 quarts of lime in a tight cask or barrel. Cover with canvas to keep in the steam. Strain through a large piece of cheese cloth or a fine sieve and add 3 quarts of coarse salt and 2 gallons of water. Bring this to a boil and skim off any im- purities. Stir in 3 pounds of potash, 8 quarts of fine sand, and coloring matter as desired. This wash may be applied to wood, brick, or stone, looks as good as paint, and is weath- erproof, fireproof, and very durable. It is an excellent preservative for shingle roofs and walls. Or slake 8 quarts of lime in a tight cask or barrel, strain, and add 2 quarts of salt dissolved in hot wa- ter. Add boiling starch made of 2 poimds of rice flour. First mix the starch with cold water to a thin paste, dilute with hot water, and boil the mixture 16 minutes. Stir in while boiling hot. ' Then stir in 4 ounces of powdered whiting and 8 ounces of best white glue dissolved in hot water over a slow fire. Dilute with 3 gallons of hot water, stir vig- orously, cover, and let stand 3 or 4 days. This mixture should cover 24 to 36 square yards of wood, brick, or stone. It may be used instead of oil paints, is much cheaper, and will last for years. It should be applied hot, which may be done by using a portable furnace or by sus- pending a kettle over a camp fire by means of three poles in the form of a tripod. Or slake 8 quarts of lime, strain, and add 1 pound of dissolved glue and 1 or 2 quarts of boiled linseed oil. Dilute with water. Or dissolve in hot water 4 quarts of water lime, 4 quarts of fresh- slaked lime, 4 pounds of powdered yeUow ocher, and 4 pounds of burnt umber. This gives a rich cream col- or for fences, outhouses, and barns. Wash for Bricks. — To make a wash for red brick walls, dissolve 3 ounces of glue in 1 gallon of water over a slow fire. Soaking the glue for a day or two beforehand will make it dissolve more quickly. Bring the glue to a boil and stir in 1 tablespoonful of powdered alum, i pound of Venetian red, and 1 pound of Spanish brown. Or vary these proportions according to taste. Mix and apply with a brush. To Prepare Calcimine. — Dissolve with boiling water in separate ket- tles 10 pounds of Spanish whiting, 8 ovmces of white glue, and 8 ounces of powdered alum. Use in each case enough water to make a thin cream. Pour together, stirring vigorously, strain through cheese cloth, and add 1 teaspoonful of bluing. Apply while warm. Add coloring matter to suit, and dilute with soap jelly to the right consistency. Remove paper, if any, wash off old calcimine or lime, fill holes or cracks with plaster of Paris, and apply a sizing of glue or shellac. Mix calcimine with any coloring matter desired and apply the same- as whitewash. Blue Wash for Walls and Ceil- ings.— Dissolve 1 pound of blue vit- riol and 8 ounces of whiting in 3 quarts of water. Boil with gentle heat 2 or 3 hours, stirring fre- quently. Remove from the fire, stir, and allow to cool. Pour the liquor HOUSE CLEANING from the sediment, mix the latter with 1 ounce of common glue dis- solved in 1 gallon of water, and ap- ply with a brush. To Faint Frescoes. — To paint in fresco consists in applying colors not injured by lime to the fresh mortar, stucco, or plaster while still damp. The advantage of this sort of painting is that it incorporates with the mortar, dries with it, and is very durable. Frescoes may be applied in any design, free hand or by means of stencil. Or the walls may be painted in fresco with tints or solid colors. Glazing for Frescoes. — ^To protect frescoes, dilute paraffin with benzol, and apply a thin coating with a brush. PAPEB HANGING To Remove Wall Paper. — To pre- pare a waU for fresh treatment, whether by painting, calcimining, or hanging fresh paper, first remove any paper that may be on the waUs. Never lay one paper over another. The germ of disease, eggs of ver- min, and other obnoxious matter are not to be gotten rid of by thisi. proc- ess. Wet the walls with boiling wa- ter applied with a whitewash brush, and remove the paper with a hand scraper or a large case knife or wide-bladed putty knife. Do not al- low the scrapings to harden on the floor, as when dry they are very dif- ficult to remove. After the paper is off, wash down the waUs with pure water or strong soda water or vine- gar and water applied with a large sponge or brush. Let them dry thor- oughly before treating. To Bepair Plaster. — To repair cracks formed in plaster by the set- tling of new houses, the sagging of old houses, the decay of ceilings and floor timbers, and accidental breaks in the plaster, first cut away the edges of the cracks or breaks with a sharp knife. Make the edge straight or slightly slanting in. Then fill with plaster of Paris mixed with water, to which may be added vine- gar, flour paste, or sand. Or fill with paper pulp moistened with glue. To mend small breaks, mix plaster of Paris with cold water and apply quickly with a case knife, smoothing the plaster as you apply it. Mix a small quantity at a time and work quickly, as the plaster hardens very fast. Or to prevent plaster of Paris from hardening quickly, when repair- ing larger breaks that take more material and more time, mix 1 table- spoonful of plaster of Paris with 3 or 3 tablespoonfuls of fine sand and dilute with vinegar. The more vine- gar used, the slower the plaster will set. Or mix plaster of Paris with an equal quantity of cold flour paste. Or to mend large cracks and breaks, soak bits of wall paper to a pulp with water, squeeze out the water, and mix to a stiff paste or jell with thin size or ghie made by dissolving 1 ounce of good glue in 1 pint of hot water over a slow fire. Pour the whole on cheese cloth to remove the excess of water. Press the paper pulp into the cracks and holes in the plaster with a putty knife. But do not quite fill the crack to the surface of the plaster, as the pulp does not admit of a smooth surface. When nearly dry, smooth the surface with plaster of Paris and let dry before tinting or repapering. The paper pulp when hard is as strong as wood, and cracks filled in this manner will never reopen. Size for Paper Hanging. — To pre- pare walls for paper hanging, first remove old paper, mend cracks and breaks, and wash down the walls with a cloth or sponge wet in warm water. Then apply with a whitewash brush a solution of 4 ounces of com- mon glue dissolved in 1 gallon of boiling water over a slow fire. Or apply a good shellac size. Paste for Paper Hanging. — See " Adhesives " elsewhere in this vol- HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES To Hang Wall Paper. — First trim close to the pattern the plain strip on one edge of the paper, but not the other. Next measure the height of the room by holding an end of the paper up to the ceiling and marking along the baseboard with any blunt instru- ment. Cut along this mark and use the first strip as a pattern. Cut a sufficient number of additional strips for the plain walls, making allowances for doors and windows. Lay tlie strips face down on a large table, or make a suitable bench by laying old boards "Lay the Strips on a Table." across a couple of chair backs or bar- rels. Apply the paste with a white- wash brush. If the paper is heavy, let it lie after pasting until it is slight- ly soaked with the paste, or until the surface is sticky rather than wet. Commence at a door or window and place the close-cut edge against the frame. First press the upper end against the ceiling and press down- ward with a clean cloth. Place the next strip so that the close-cut edge wUl overUe the half-inch strip left upon the first strip, and so proceed until the room is finished. But remember that aE' heavy-weight papers in solid colors, as ingrain, du- plex, or cartridge papers, and most cloth or fabric wall coverings, must be "butted" rather than overlapped. That is, the edges must be placed dose enough together to cover the wall, but without overlapping each other. To fit around doors, window cas- ings, and other jogs, cut and paste a fuU strip, apply it to the wall at the ceiling, and press with a cloth down to the lop of the door or window frame and along the side of the ad- jacent wall. Press carefully up to the frame and cut along the edge vrith a sharp knife to take out the section of paper which comes over the door or window. It will assist to clip diagonally with shears toward the corner of the opening, taking care not to clip too far, although the di- agonal clipping, if it extends into the paper on the wall, may be concealed by carefully bringing the edg^ to- gether. To Paper a Boagh Wall. — To paper old walls of boards, planks, or wains- coting without plaster, or sanded waUs that have not been "skimmed" with plaster or lime, or other rough sur- faces, it may be necessary to first hang a layer of cotton cloth to furnish a smooth surface on which to hang paper. The difficulty of hangipg paper on a rough surface is that the paper, being stiff, does not yield to the de- pressions in the wall. Hence air spaces are left that cause the paper to blister and peel off. The advan- tages of using cloth are that it is flexible, that it takes up more paste than paper does, and hence that it adheres more closely to the wedl. It affords a smooth and suitable surface on which to hang paper, and gives the final result a good appearance. First go over rough surfaces with sand- paper. Tack this to a large block of wood, into which, to avoid using a stepladder, insert an old broom han- dle. Next apply liberally to the walls hot boUed flour or other suitable paste containing a tablespoonful of borax to each gallon of water. Cover with paste one strip at a time, and immedi- ately hang on the wet wall any suit- able cotton stuff. Unbleached cotton sheeting or cheese cloth answers this purpose; or old sheets, pillowcases, and the like may be utilized. After hanging the cloth, brush it down with a whitewash brush dipped in the hot HOUSE CLEANING 283 paste, and allow it to dry. Then hang the wall paper in the usual manner. To Paint Rough Walls. — To obtain a suitable surface for painting or tint- ing in colors on rough boards, sanded walls, stuccb, or other rough surfaces, first apply a layer of cotton cloth as above and hang a cheap, light-colored wall paper. When dry, pare- off with a potato knife the seams in the paper caused by overlapping the edges, run- ning the sharp edge down the seam from top to bottom, or use carefully an old razor for this purpose. Apply, two or three coats of paint and white varnish alternately, allowing one to dry before putting on the next. The varnish will prevent the paint from becoming soiled, and the surface will last a lifetime. To Paint a Whitewashed Wall. — Scrape off the loose Ume with any blunt-edged tool. A hoe is convenient. Go over the wall with sandpaper tacked to a large block of wood and fastened to a handle. Wash with a sponge to remove the lime and let dry. Fill cracks and breaks with plaster of Paris. They wiU be concealed by the paint. Do not use putty for this pur- pose, as that when dry would have a different-looking surface. Apply one or two coats of shellac or glue size, 3 or 4 ounces of either to a gallon of boiling water. Cover with any suit- able paint and varnish. CASE OF WALLS To Glean Wall Paper. — Brush down the walls with a hairbrush or dust cloth, then cut a loaf of yeast bread two or three days old once vertically through the middle, and again cross- wise. Hold these pieces by the crust and rub the wall downward with long, light strokes. Do not rub across the paper, or rub harder than is neces- sary. An ordinary coarse grater held in the left hand will be found con- venient to rub off the surface of the bread as it becomes soUed. Clean thor- oughly as you go. Or make a stiff dough of rye flour and water and apply in the same man- ner. The dough should be stiff enough not to stick to the hands or to the paper. Take a piece as large as the fist, dip it in dry corn meal, and use untU it becomes soiled. Change as often as necessary. Or make a similar stiff dough of wheat flour and water. Afterwards brush down the walls with a clean soft brush or dust cloth to remove the crumbs. To Remove Grease from Wall Paper. — To remove grease and oil stains from wall paper, fold a piece of blotting paper, and in the fold spread pipe clay or French chalk. Stitch or pin the edges together to keep the chalk from falling out. Lay this over the grease spot and apply a hot iron, taking care not to scorch the paper. Change the blotting paper occasionally, and, if, necessary, repeat with a fresh iron. Or make a thick paste of powdered pipe clay or French chalk and apply it to the spot with a brush. Let it re- main until dry. Then brush off and repeat if necessary. To Dust Walls. — To remove dust from walls, use a clean hairbrush or window brush with a suitable handle. Brush from the top downward. Or make a bag to cover the head of the broom. Or draw a sleeve or leg of a suit of old knit underwear over the head of the broom. Put the broom handle through the large part and draw it well down over the broom. The down- ward motion of the broom on the wall wiU hold the cloth tightly in place. Or crumple an old paper bag in the hands, but without tearing it, and slip it over the head of the broom. This can be removed and burned after using. Or insert into a clean mop handle a suitable dust cloth, as several thick- nesses of cheese cloth or discarded cotton or woolen underwear, and sweep down the walls with this. To Mend Wall Paper. — To patch a spot knocked out of the wall paper, or holes in exposed cracks or edges, take a. piece of paper to match the 284 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES pattern aiid expose to the sun until it, fades to the same shade. Cut a patch £in inch or two larger than the brokfen place, lay it face down on a piece of glass, moisten it with a suit- able paste, and when moist scrape or pare the edge with a sharp knife or old razor to a very fine slant or bevel. Lay on a fresh coat of paste, es- pecially around the edge, and apply the patch so as to match the design. Rub the edges down with gentle strokes of a soft cloth, and if done skillfully the patch wiU not be noticeable. Or, if spots are too small to patch, obtain, for a few cents, a child's box of water colors, mix the colors to ob- tain the right shade, and paint the spots with a small camel's-hair brush. A 2S-cent box of colors wiU last a long time, and a little practice will enable anyone to match the colors and keep the wall paper in good order. Faded spots left on solid-colored wall papers by the removal of pictures may be renovated by painting them with dyestuff. Select a color as near that of the paper as possible, follow the directions that come with the dye, and apply to the wall with a brush. Care must be taken not to let the dye drip on floor coverings or furniture. When first applied, the painted spot wUl be darker than the rest, but it wiU quick- ly dry to its proper tint or shade. To Clean Calcimiued Walls. — Rub on corn meal with a coarse cloth, or moisten a soft cloth or sponge in aqua ammonia and rub spots very lightly. To RenoTate Blackened Walls. — A smoked or blackened ceiling or wall may be cleaned by means of a cloth wrung out of a strong solution of baking soda and water. Or use vine- gar and water. If the stain is not all removed, dissolve gum shellac in alco- hol to the consistency of milk or cream and with it cover the sooty parts. Paint or whitewash over the shellac. The black will not show through. To Dry Walls that Are Damp.— If there is much dampness in a room that is not commonly heated, it may cause the walls to mold or mildew, be- sides being unhealthy. To absorb the dampness, place unslaked lime in fiat, open vessels, as dripping pans, plates, or saucers. Lime has an affinity for dampness and also purifies the air. Renew the lime as fast as it becomes air-slaked and crumbles into a fine, dry powder. Walls are often damp for no ap- parent cause. Brick and other porous walls may hold moisture, or it may work up from springs through the foundations of brick or stone houses. The causes should be sought and, if possible, removed. To prepare damp walls for cal- cimine or paper, make a size of 1 ounce of glue to 1 gallon of water, and add 4 ounces of alum and 4 ounces of boiled linseed oil. Apply one or two coats and let dry before paper- ing. Or apply with a whitewash brush, during summer when the wall is dryer, a solution of 1 pound of castUe or other hard white soap in 1 gallon of water. Let stand a day or two to dry. Follow with a second coat of i pound of alum in a pailful of water, and let dry before papering. Or, if the walls are very damp, ap- ply thin sheet lead or tin foil to the walls with a suitable cement. Or fasten with flat-headed copper tacks. These may be driven into the damp spots only or, if necessary, into the entire wall. Afterwards paper. To Bemove Mold from Walls. — ^To remove mold or mildew from walls or ceilings, apply with a whitewash brush a solution of 1 pound of chloride of Ume dissolved in a pailful of water. To prevent dampness when build- ing, after the walls are a few feet above the ground lay a row of stone or brick with a mixture of tar pitch and fine sand in place of mortar. WINDOWS, DOOBS, ETC. To Clean Windows. — Do not use soapsuds on windows. The soap ad- heres and requires a good deal of rinsing to remove. The easiest way to clean windows is with a chamois HOUSE CLEANING 285 or clean cloth and clear water. Wring out the chamois or cloth so as to be wet but not dripping, and wash the windows clean. Afterwards wring dry and go over them again. Finally pol- ish with a dry cloth or chamois. Rinse Clean Windows wUh a Chamois.' the cloth and change the water as often as necessary. Or, if the windows are much soiled, use a little washing soda, but do not let water containing soda drip or stain the paint on the sash. Wash one pane at a time and wipe with a dry cloth. Or add a, little gasoline to the water. This cleans quickly and gives a high polish. Or add 1 tablespoonful of kerosene or ammonia to 1 quart of water. Or, if the windows are not much soiled, wet them with a soft cloth dampened with kerosene or ammonia water, and wipe with a dry cloth. Or mix a little dry stardi with cold water to the consistency of cream, and wash the windows with this, leav- ing it to dry on. When dry, rub it off with a damp newspaper. This gives a high polish without lint or streaks. To Remove Paint. — To remove paint spots from windows, soften them with hot, strong vinegar, and rub a copper or silver coin over them to loosen the paint. To Bemove Putty. — To remove put- ty, go over it with a red-hot poker or other hot iron, taking care not to touch the paint on the window sashes. When the putty is hot, slip a dull knife blade between it and the wood- work and it will readily come off. Any other method that will remove putty is likely to injure the paint on the sashes. Or apply two or three coats of par- affin oil by means of a small brush, allowing each coat a half hour or more to penetrate before the next one is applied. Or apply soft soap freely by means of a brush. In a short time the hard- ened linseed oil is dissolved, making the putty plastic, so that it can be readily removed. Window Corners. — Use a whisk broom to dig out the corners of the window sash, or use wings of turkeys, geese, or chickens. These are also good to wash windows, as they are free from dust and lint. Or use a piece of whalebone or a skewer to clean out the corners of the sash. To Pplish Windows. — Polish win- dows with dry chamois or tissue paper or an old newspaper slightly mois- tened. Or apply with a moistened rag pow- dered indigo, pumice stone, or fuller's earth, and polish. Or fold a piece of cheese cloth and put a quantity of pulverized pumice stone between the folds, stitching around the edge to keep the powder from spilling. Polish chimneys and window panes with this prepared cloth. It gives a high polish instantly, and will last a long time. Or with a soft cloth rub a little vinegar on the glass. Rub dry and polish. To Prevent Windows from Steam- ing. — After cleaning the glass, rub over it a rag slightly moistened with glycerin. Windows — To Keep Out the Sun. — Make a paste of powdered gum traga- 286 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES canth and white of egg. Beat with an egg beater and let it stand twenty- four hours. Apply with a soft brush and let dry. To Clean Mirrors. — Mix a little powdered bluing, whiting, or pumice stone with alcohol to form a thin paste. Smear the surface of the mir- ror with this by means of a small sponge or soft rag, and before the al- cohol evaporates rub it dry with a clean cloth. Afterwards polish with silk, chamois, or tissue paper. Or wring a cloth or chamois out of clear water, dip in dry whiting, and apply. Rub with a dry cloth or cham- ois and polish. Or apply whiting mixed with tea to form a thin paste. Use clear tea to remove stains. Or wring a newspaper as you would a cloth out of cold water, so that it will be damp but not wet. Rub the glass with this, and afterwards dry with a fresh newspaper softened by crumpling it in the hands. To Polish Mirrors. — Use a dry chamois or pumice bag, or a silk hand- kerchief, or tissue paper, or apply powdered chalk or whiting with any of these. Or use a dry cloth slightly moistened with a few drops of aqua ammonia. To Support Window Sashes. — To support window sashes not provided with sash lines and pulleys, obtain a nmhber of ordinary bottle corks and a bit or an auger of the same size. Bore three or four holes in the side of the sash and insert a piece of cork in each of these, letting it project just enough to rub against the groove of the window frame. The elasticity of the corks will admit of the window being raised, but the pressure wiQ be sufficient to support the sash at any desired height. Renew the corks as often as necessary. To Lubricate Window Sashes. — To lubricate a window sash that rubs or swells in damp weather so that it can- not be raised and lowered readily, slush freely with common yellow soap the edge of the sash and the groove in which it runs. This may be done by moistening the soap and rubbing it over the parts, or by dissolving the soap in its own bulk of water, and applying the soap jeUy with a brush. Or use a wax candle instead of soap. To Prevent Window "Sashes from Rattling. — A half of a clothespin will cure temporarily the rattling of a window sash. To Restore Window Glass. — ^To re- store the transparency of window glass that has become dingy by ex- posure to the elements, rub with di- lute muriatic acid, 1 part of acid to 10 parts of water, and polish with a moist cloth dipped in whiting. To Keep Doors Open. — Cover a com- mon red brick with cretonne, carpet, or any suitable material to match the floor covering, and have a number of these weights about the house to place against the doors and keep them open. To Prevent Doors from Creaking. — Dip a feather in oil and apply to the hinges. Or rub on a piece of soap. Or mix equal parts of soap, lard, and black lead, and apply with the point of a lead pencil or in melted form by means of a small brush. Burglar-proof Lock. — Lock the door, leave the key in the lock, and keep it there by means of a heavy copper wire 11 inches long bent in the shape of a hairpin. Put this over the spindle back of the knob, with the ends down through the head of the key. The key cannot then be pushed out or turned by a burglar's tool or another key inserted from the out- side. This is a convenient device for a traveler to use in hotels, where du- plicate keys are often issued to ser- vants and others. Or one end of the wire may be fas- tened to the casement by means of a staple, and the other end formed into a hook to hold the key in position. Or an ordinary hook may be used for this purpose. Skeleton Key. — Obtain from a lock- smith a skeleton key similar to the keys used by burglars and furnished HOUSE CLEANING 287 to employees of hotels whose duties require them to have admission to all the rooms. This will be exceedingly convenient when other keys are lost or mislaid. To Tit Keys.-^To fit an old key or a blank to replace a key that has been lost, hold the key to be fitted in the flame of a candle imtU it is thorough- ly blackened, insert it carefully in the lock, and turn it until it strikes the wards. Withdraw the key and file away the parts where the soot has been rubbed off by the wards. CLEAirarG AND CAEE OF FTJEHITUEE To Clean rnrniture. — Furniture, like other woodwork, tends to shrink if it becomes too dry, and should be washed for the sake of moisture as well as for the sake of cleanliness. Hence furniture, besides being cleaned, when necessary, with suitable cleans- ing compounds, should be sponged oc- casionally with clear water and vnped dry. « But do not use soap or washing powders on painted or varnished fur- niture. Remove dirt, dust, and stains with other cleansing agents, and rinse by sponging with clear water. Wipe dry, oil, and polish. Detergents recom- mended for cleaning, furniture, re- moving finger marks, white spots, and stains are olive, sweet, linseed, paraf- fin, and otlier oils; whiting, fuller's earth, cold tea, kerosene, turpentine, soda, essence of peppermint, camphor, asphaltum, vinegar, various acids, and combinations of these. To Wash Furniture. — To wash fur- niture, use a large sponge, wipe dry, and polish dry as possible with a chamois skin wrung out of clear water, or with a soft flannel cloth. Do not use dry chamois on varnished wood or polished surfaces. Wipe always in one direction, preferably with the grain of the wood. Wash carved wood with a stiff hair paint brush dipped in clear water. Or wash with cold tea applied vidth a sponge or brush, wipe dry, oil, and polish. Care of Furniture. — To keep pol- ished or varnished furniture in good order, each article should be gone over lightly once a week on cleaning day with clear hot (not boiling) water without soap, or with cold tea, or any other suitable cleanser. Or, if there is not time for this, af- ter dusting the furniture, rub it over with a cloth moistened with kerosene, turpentine, cold tea, or cold-drawn linseed oil, or with a mixture of equal parts of these. This practice will as- sist in keeping it in good order. To Kemove Finger Marks. — Mois- ten a flannel cloth in olive, linseed, sweet, or paraffin oU to remove the spots. Wipe dry, and polish with flan- nel or a chamois skin wrung out of clear water. For oiled furniture use kerosene. To Remove White Marks. — To re- move white marks on furniture caused by heat or water, hold a hot iron near them, but not near enough to burn or scorch. Or rub with a cloth moistened with kerosene. Or with a cloth apply equal parts of linseed oil and alcohol. Or, if the stain is obstinate, cover with baking soda and hold a. hot iron close to the spot, taking care not to scorch or burn the wood. Repeat if necessary. Or apply olive oil or sweet oil, and polish with 9 cloth moistened in al- cohol. Or apply essence of peppermint with a cloth. Wipe dry and polish. Or use a mixture composed of equal parts of vinegar, sweet oil, and tur- pentine. Or rub with a cloth wet in spirits of camphor or camphorated oil or turpentine. Or use a cloth saturated with any of these. After using any of the above, wipe the spot dry, apply furniture oil, and polish with damp chamois or silk or linen cloth. Do not allow alcohol, turpentine, camphor, or similar de- tergents to remain on a polished sur- face. 288 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES To Bemove Ink Stains. — To remove Ink stains, first test the ink by ap- plying water to see if it contains coal- tar products, as eosin or nigrosine. If these are present the ink when wet will run. In that case use an alkali, as baking soda mixed with water to form a paste, and let it dry on. Re- peat if necessary. Or, if water does not cause the ink to run, it is probably an iron-gall or logwood ink; hence apply an acid, preferably oxalic acid, dissolved in an equal quantity of water. Saturate a cloth with the solution and lay it on the spot to soften the ink. Then -wash with the solution until the ink disap- pears. Or apply salts of lemon. Or a mixture of 6 parts of spirits of salt (diluted hydrochloric acid) and 1 part of salts of lemon. Or use 1 part of nitric, muriatic, or sulphuric acid diluted with 10 parts of water. Apply by dipping a cork in the mixture and touching the stain, or by means of a feather. But remember that all of these acids are poisotious, and that all except ox- alic acid will burn or blister the skin. Also, if used in too great strength, they will remove paint and varnish and themselves stain the surfaces they are applied to. Hence use no more acid than is necessary and immedi- ately sponge off with clear water con- taining a little ammonia, wipe dry, oil, and polish. To Remove Braises from Turniture. — To renovate furniture that has been bruised or scratched without injuring the fiber of the wood, apply moisture and heat. Wet a cloth in warm water, not hot, and lay it over the parts. Hold near a hot iron, but not near enough to scorch or char the wood. Repeat until the bruise comes up. If the varnish is discolored, apply any of the above remedies. Or use, instead of cloth, several thicknesses of brown paper moistened in water. Or, if the bruise is small, omit the cloth or paper. Wet the spot and hold near it a hot iron. Then lay over the scratched or bruised surface a cloth dipped in linseed oil. Finally rub with a mixture of equal parts of turpentine and linseed oil, and polish. Oils for Wood Furniture. — Furni- ture polish containing oil or wax will not be needed if the- wood is washed occasionally with clear warm water, not hot, without soap, and rubbed dry with chamois or a soft cloth. But if furniture polish containing Oil Musi Be Rubbed In." fixed oils is used the furniture must be rubbed vigorously and kept in condition by daily rubbing to pre- vent oU accumulating so as to be felt or seen. Furniture oil should be sparingly used and the wood rubbed to a high polish or imtil it does not have any greasy feel. Soap for Furniture. — Soap should not be used on wood finished with shellac or varnish or treated with furniture wax or oU. Soap has the property of destroying oily and resi- nous substances, and thus tends to eat away the coating, destroy the polish, and expose the wood. To Remove Furniture Scratches. — Go over the articles with a soft rag dampened in kerosene oil. This will cause all light scratches or sur- face bruises to disappear. Or, if the scratches or cracks are deep, melt a little beeswax, and thin HOUSE CLEANING 289 out with turpentine to the consist- ency of sirup. Apply with a soft cloth, and polish with flannel or vel- veteen. To Bestore the Color of Furniture. — Apply raw linseed oil by means of a flannel cloth to restore the color, and let stand over night. Or, for highly polished surfaces, as rosewood or mahogany, apply a cloth moistened with alcohol. After- wards polish with a soft cloth mois- tened with turpentine. Linseed Oil for Turniture. — Ap- ply raw linseed oil as a restorer, with or without an equal quantity of tur- pentine. Care of Piano. — The back of the piano should be protected by a dust cloth of denim or other suitable ma- terial tacked or pasted lightly to the frame. In moist climate the wires wiU be protected from rust by sprinkling them with unslaked lime. The keys should be wiped with al- cohol once a week on cleaning day to prevent them from yellowing, and the varnish may be kept in good con- dition by wiping once a week with a chamois wrung out of cold or warm water, or by wiping with a cloth moistened with turpentine, kerosene, or cold-dravni linseed oil, or a mix- ture of these. To Clean Pianos. — A careful in- quiry by a dealer in pianos from the largest factories in the United States discloses the fact that there is no better means of cleaning a polished piano or any other highly polished furniture than to simply wash it in lukewarm water, drying each part perfectly by rubbing briskly as fast as it is washed. This method is as safe as it is simple. It leaves the polish absolutely uninjured. To Clean Piano Keys. — Remove stains with oxalic acid and keep the keys white by rubbing with a soft piece of cloth wet with alcohol or with cologne water. Expose the keys to sunshine on bright, sunny days to bleach them. Cleaner for Husical Instruments. — To clean guitars, violins, etc., mix equal quantities of linseed oil, tur- pentine, and water. Shake well be- fore using to form an emulsion or cream. Rub the instrument with a cloth dampened in this cream, wipe dry, and polish with woolen cloth, chamois, or velveteen. To Clean Cane Chairs and Wicker, Bamboo, and Rattan Furniture. — First blow the dust out of the crev- ices with a pair of bellows or a good- sized bellows or bicycle pump. This will greatly assist in cleaning. Make a suds by dissolving half a bar of white soap in a gallon or more of water and add half a cupful of com- mon salt. This will prevent the cane from turning yellow. Apply the suds to the chair with a scrubbing brush, first one side and then the other, using plenty of water so that the cane may be thoroughly soaked. Place it out of doors to dry in a shady place. This will make the cane firm and tight and renew its elasticity. To Bleach Willow Furniture. — To bleach willow furniture, make a suds as above and add 3 ounces of bleaching powder. To Renovate Cane Chairs. — When the cane bottoms of chairs wear out, buy new cane and learn to weave cane seats. This is a simple art which may be easily learned by any- one, experimenting with the cane of an old chair and by a little practice. CLEANIITG PICTURE FRAMES To Protect Gilt Picture Frames. — Brush gilt frames with water in which onions have been boiled — three or four to a pint. Also wash the glass with it. Onion water will not injure the frames, and will prevent flies from lighting upon the picture. Or, after dusting, go over the frames lightly with a soft flannel cloth moistened in kerosene. Or give them a coat of clear parchment size. This will prevent the dirt from darkening the gilt. The size may be sponged with cold water or oil of turpentine, and left to dry without wiping. 290 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or give the frames when new a coat of white varnish. This may be washed with clear cold water. Or wash soiled gilt frames with a gill of vinegar dissolved in a pint of cold water and applied with a soft brush. Or stir into a quart of water enough powdered sulphur to give it a slightly yellow tinge, and in this water boil four or five sliced onions. Strain and apply with a soft brush to soiled gUt frames. Or to 3 ounces of white of egg add 1 ounce of chloride of potassium or soda and beat up together. Dust the frame with a, soft brush, and brush over them with the above mix- ture. Or apply well-beaten white of egg with a camel's-hair brush and wipe off with a soft flannel cloth. But rub with the cloth very little and very lightly. Or wash with alcohol or spirits of turpentine, using a soft sponge, and let dry without wiping. All picture frames should be treated with one of the above prepa- rations several times during the spring and summer. Or cover the frames with oiled tarlatan, which may be obtained ready oiled for this purpose. Or brush boiled linseed oil over ordinary tarlatan. This is excel- lent for keeping dust from books, bric-a-brac, and various other ob- jects. Apply alcohol to fly spots and other stains with a camel's-hair brush to soften them, and wipe off the frame with a, soft chamois or flannel cloth. Do not use linen for this purpose, as it deadens the brightness of the gilding. To Kenovate Gilt Frames. — ^Apply gilt paint with a camel's-hair brush to spots where the gilding has come off 80 as to expose the wood. Or if the bit of gilding that has come off can be found and is large enough, moisten the spot with glue and replace it, bringing it up to a, level by means of putty if necessary. Let dry and go over it with gold paint. To Clean Gilt Ornaments. — ^Make a strong solution of cyanide of po- tassium. But remember that this is a deadly poison. Apply with a stiff brush, or dip the articles in this solution. Afterwards rinse with wa- ter, using a soft brush, and dry in boxwood or other hard-wood shav- ings. These may be obtained of any jeweler. Store away gilt articles in boxwood shavings to keep them from tarnishing. Or clean them with a lather of soft white soap, rinsing with clear water. To Clean Silver Ornaments. — ^Make a suds by dissolving hard white soap in boiling water, inmierse the arti- cles, and boil for five minutes. Re- move and scrub gently with a soft brush, rinse in clear boiling water, and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Lay them near the fire until the moisture has perfectly evaporated, or cover them -with boxwood sawdust until fully dried. To Preserve Oil Paintings. — Ap- ply two or three coats of pure white- lead paint to the back of the can- vas. This preserves the canvas from damp, mold, and mildew, and makes it practically indestructible. Many ancient canvases treated in this way have been preserved for centuries. The same process will strengthen a decaying canvas. To Clean Oil Paintings. — To clean an oU painting, wash the surface gently with clear warm water, using a soft cloth or fine sponge, let dry, and rub gently with a soft flannel cloth moistened with pure olive oil. The water softens the accumulated smoke, dust, and dirt, and the oil assists in wiping it away. Or wash with mUk diluted with warm water, and dry without rins- ing. Or cut a potato in half and rub gently with the fresh surface, slicing off the soiled portions, until the whole is cleansed. The practice of covering the sur- HOUSE CLEANING 291 race of paintings with soft soap or other alkaline lyes is a very mischiev- ous one. If the paintings are of any value, they should be cleaned only by an expert. To Clean Prints. — Fasten the print to a board by means of thumb' tacks, cover with fine common salt, and moisten the salt slightly with lemon juice. Turn the board at an angle and pour boiling water over the sur- face until the salt and lemon juice are washed off. Dry gradually in the shade. Or, to remove yellow stains from engravings, dissolve hydrochloride of soda in water. Moisten a cloth with this solution and lay over the stain until it is removed. Rinse with clear water. To Bestore White in Oil Paint- ings. — To renovate old oil paintings in which the whites have become dark by the action of the air on paints containing carbonate of lead or other lead compounds, apply, by means of a soft brush, water charged with four or five volumes of oxygen. Afterwards let dry and go over the painting with copal varnish. To Slend Gilt Prames. — To replace on gUt frames ornaments that have been broken off and lost, melt to- gether with gentle heat 1 pound of rosin, J pint of linseed oU, and J gill of Venetian turpentine. Dissolve separately J pound of glue in 3 quarts of water and mix the two solutions. Boil and stir constantly until the water is evaporated, leav- ing a thick mass, to which add pow- dered whiting until the whole is of the consistency of putty. Mold to the desired shape while warm, and when cold it will set and harden. Color with gUt paint. To Clean Wood Prames. — First dust with a, soft brush, and after- wards wipe with flannel dipped in sweet oil. To Kenovate Old Gilt Prames. — GUt frames that are past retouching with gilt paint may be renovated by renioving the gilding with fine sand- paper or rubbing down the surface with a moistened cloth dipped in powdered pumice or rotten stone. Paint with black or other color of enamel paint or any desired stain, and afterwards apply a coat of co- pal or any hard white varnish. CLEANING BBIC-A-BBAC AND HIS- CELLANEOTJS OBJECTS To Clean Brass Purniture. — Brass bedsteads and brass fittings on fur- niture may be cleaned by moistening a cloth in sweet oil and dipping it in powdered whiting or rotten stone pulverized finely and sifted through cheese cloth. Or mix finely powdered tripoli with linseed oil. Apply with a sponge or rag, and polish with a piece of felt or velveteen. Or moisten a cloth in ammonia and dip in powdered whiting. To Clean Brass Inlaid Work. — Mix equal quantities of rotten stone, starch, and oxalic acid with water to a stiff paste and dilute with sweet oU. Apply with a piece of felt or velveteen, and polish with a flannel rag or moistened chamois. To Clean Bric-a-Brac. — Brass or- naments on bric-a-brac may be cleaned with a piece of stale bread. Hold the bread by the crust and rub carefully, allowing the crumbs to fall with the dirt. Brass candle- sticks, lamps, and the like may be cleaned with soap and water,, but lacquered articles require careful treatment without soap. To Clean Bronzes. — Genuine bronzes may be washed with good soapsuds and a sponge or rag, and wiped dry with a soft flannel cloth or chamois. Or dirt and stains may first be removed with a flannel cloth mois- tened in sweet oil; afterwards pol- ish with 'flannel or chamois. To Clean Mother-of-Pearl. — Rub with a cheese-cloth bag containing dry pumice, or apply finely pow- dered pimiice moistened with sweet oil, and polish with a piece of felt or velveteen. 292 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES To Clean Upholstered Furniture. — In cities the pneumatic cleaning machine removes all dust and dirt from upholstered furniture with lit- tle labor, but where this is not avail- able take the furniture out of doors and freely apply gasoline or naph- tha. Pour these on so as to saturate the upholstered parts, and rub vigor- ously with a soft hair brush, sponge, or flannel cloth dipped in warm gasoline until all spots and soiled places are fully cleaned. Keep the furniture out of doors in a draught until the cleanser evaporates. This process will also destroy moths. To Clean Brick or Stone Work. — Mop with a solution of caustic potash or soda with oxalic acid dissolved in water. Or pour the mixture over the surfaces and scrub with a scrubbing brush, but do not dip the hands in this mixture and do not use it too strong. To Clean Ivory. — For cleaning ivory, use prepared chalk, lime, brick dust, turpentine, lemon juice, salt and vinegar, lime, potash, and alum. Ivory ornaments, brooches, card cases, bracelets, carvings, piano keys, and the like may be cleaned by painting them over with spirits of turpentine and, when possible, ex- posing them for two or three days to sunshine. Or articles that can be taken out of doors may be bleached by simply moistening them with wa- ter and exposing th»n to direct sun- shine. Or dissolve slaked lime in water to the consistency of milk. Cover the articles with this, or dip them in it if convenient, and steep as long as may be necessary. Remove them, allow the slaked lime to dry on, and when dry rub off and polish with a dry cloth. Or apply salt and lemon juice. Polish with whiting. Apply with a moist cloth and rub with a chamois. If small ivory articles are badly stained and discolored, first soak them for 24 hours or longer in a solution of 1 part of baking soda to i parts of water. Rinse, and immerse in a solution of 1 part of stilphite of soda to 3 parts of wa- ter for another day or 2. Finally add to the latter solution 1 ounce of hydrochloric acid diluted with 6 ounces of water, and allow the arti- cles to stand in this for 2 or 3 days. Wash in clean water, dry, and polish. To Glean Bric-a-Brac. — For deep, narrow-necked flower vases, rose bowls, or carafes, cut some potato parings in small squares and pour over them water in which baking soda has been dissolved. Put them into the glasses to be cleaned, let stand a few minutes, and shake well. Afterwards wash in soapsuds and polish. Or use 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar to 1 of rice. Shake well. To polish, use fuller's earth finely powdered or whiting. Never use hot water for these articles. Allow the water to cool imtil it wiU bear the hands comfortably. To Clean a Chandelier. — Apply pure vinegar with a small sponge; afterwards wash in soapsuds and polish with flannel or chamois. To renovate tarnished metallic parts, paint black with the dull-black paint used for ebonizing. Or apply white, gilt, or any other enamel paint desired. Glass Stoppers. — The glass stop- pers of decanters or carafes and oth- er bottles sometimes stick and are very difficult to remove. To obviate this, use a large glass marble, either of clear glass or containing fancy figures. This makes a good stopper for a decanter or water bottle and is easily removed. To remove a stopper that sticks, first apply a few drops of sweet oil or salad oil to the neck of the stop- per, and let stand a few minutes to soak in between the stopper and the neck of the bottle. If this does not loosen the stopper, apply heat to the neck of the bottle on the outside. It is well known that heat expands all substances, and, if applied to the outside, the neck of HOUSE CLEANING 293 the bottle will expand before the stopper does, and the stopper will become loosened. This may be done by putting a narrow strip of flannel about the neck of the bottle and drawing it back and forth rapidly to create friction. This will some- times cause heat enough in a few minutes. Or hold the hand about the neck of the bottle until the heat of the hand causes it to expand. Or, if this is not sufBcient, dip a rag in water as hot as the hands will bear and wrap it about the neck of the bottle. This must not be done, however, when the bottle is very cold, as it may be cracked by ex- panding too suddenly. Or hold the neck of the bottle near a gas jet or an open flame, turning it constantly to prevent any part from becoming overheated. Or wrap a piece of cloth about the stopper and with a light piece of wood tap it gently, first on one side, then on the other. Do not use a hammer or other metal tool or uten- sil for this purpose. To Glean Clocks. — To clean a clock, saturate a cloth or pad of cotton with kerosene oil and lay it inside on a small dish that will pre- vent the woodwork from being satu- rated. As it evaporates, the fumes will loosen any foreign substance on the wheels of the clock and cause it to drop. Repeat as often as neces- sary. The fumes also tend to lubri- cate the works. Or remove the works of alarm clocks and others which are made exclusively of metal, and place them in an earthenware jar or other clean vessel having a tight-fitting cover. Pour over them kerosene oU through a cloth strainer or filter paper to remove all sediment. Let stand un- til the grease and dirt have been en- tirely cut and removed. The clock may be returned to its case without waiting for the excess of oil to evap- orate. To Oil Clocks. — ^To oil a clock, ob- tain the purest olive oil and cleanse it by adding half a pint of lime wa- ter to each quart of oil. Shake well and let stand three or four days, when the pure oil may be carefully poured off the sediment and strained through silk or filter paper. To Glean Metals. — Variotis acids are recommended for cleaning metals, as tartaric, oxalic, acetic, muriatic, and the like; also alcohol, turpentine, and petroleiun products, and such materials as whiting, powdered pum- ice, rotten stone, bath brick, etc., mixed with water or oil. Paste for Uetals. — ^Mix 1 ounce of oxalic acid with 6 ounces of rotten stone, and dilute to a soft paste with equal parts of train oil and spirits of turpentine. Or mix strong potash or soda lye with alcohol and apply to metals with a brush. Let dry, and polish with a soft cloth or moist chamois. This will remove verdigris and most other forms of rust or tarnish. Brass — To Prevent Tarnishing. — Moisten powdered sal ammoniac with water and apply to the brass by means of a brush. Afterwards heat the ar- ticle until the sal ammoniac is melt- ed. Cool, and polish with dry whiting and soft cloth. To Glean Brass. — Dissolve J ounce of oxalic acid in 1 pint of soft water and wash the brass, or moisten a cloth in sweet oil dipped in powdered whit- ing or rotten stone, and scour. Or mix to a soft paste 1 ounce of starch, 13 ounces of rotten stone, 2 ounces of sweet oil, and 3 ounces of oxalic acid with water, and apply with a cloth or chamois. Or, to clean brass inlaid work, mix tripoli with linseed oil, and apply by means of a piece of folded velveteen or other suitable polisher. Or use a good furniture paste. But if the wood has a very high polish, finish the cleaning by rubbing on dry starch with the palm of the hand. Or mix 2 ounces of sulphuric acid, IJ ounces of nitric acid, 1 dram of saltpeter, and 3 ounces of rain water, and let stand until the solution set- tles. Dip the articles in this, or go 294 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES over them with a soft brush dipped in this mixture, rinse immediately with soft water, and wipe dry. Or dry in sawdust. To prevent future tar- nishing, apply a good coat of brass lacquer. To Clean Bronze. — To clean genu- ine bronze, apply hot soapsuds or boil the article in suds. Rinse and wipe dry with a soft cloth or chamois skin. Or, for small articles, apply sweet oil with a brush and rub off with a flannel cloth. Polish with dry whiting and cham- ois skin. To Clean Nickel. — Mix equal quan- tities of alcohol and aqua ammonia and stir in whiting to the consistency of thin cream. Apply with a brush and soft cloth, let dry, and polish with a clean, dry cloth or chamois skin. Or, to remove stains from nickel, dilute 1 part of sulphuric acid in SO parts of alcohol, and dip the articles in the solution until the stains are re- moved, which should take not more than 5 or 10 seconds. Rinse in al- cohol and afterwards in clear water, and polish with dry whiting and cham- ois. Repeat if necessary. To Clean Gilt Metals. — ^Metals fin- ished in gUt or lacquer should not be washed with strong soaps containing free alkali, but preferably with clear, soft warm water and a fine sponge. Or a little castile soap or other fine white soap may be used if necessary. Clean out the crevices in the orna- mental parts with a soft brush, as an old toothbrush, but use no more force than is necessary to avoid injuring the gilding. Wipe dry with chamois or a piece of soft woolen cloth or silk. Bronzed articles, not genuine bronze, require only dusting or wiping with a soft cloth. Washing will injure the bronzing. Burnishing Powder. — To make a high polish for metals, mix 4 ounces of prepared chalk, IJ ounces of pipe clay, 1 ounce of white lead, J ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and J ounce of jeweler's rouge. TO CLEAir UABBLE, BBICE. AND STOITE To Clean Uarble. — To clean marble mantels, table tops, tops of bureaus, washstands, and other polished marble surfaces, wipe them with a cloth mois- tened in kerosene. Or mix 3 ounces of common soda, 1 ounce of pumice stone, and 1 ounce of fine common salt, and dilute with water to the consistency of cream. Pour this mixture over the marble and let stand until all stains are removed. Afterwards wash the marble with salt and water, rinse, and wipe dry. Or mix soft soap and whiting to a thin paste, and apply to the marble by means of a soft brush. Let stand until fully dry, and wash off with lukewarm suds made of hard white or yellow soap. Or give the marble a coating of mu- cilage made by boiling to the con- sistency of thick cream 4 ounces of gum arable in 1 quart of water. Dilute with hot water if necessary. Apply with a brush and expose the article to the sun and air until the mucilage cracks and can be readily rubbed off, then wash with clear water and a soft cloth. Repeat if necessary. Or stir into 1 pint of soft soap 1 teaspoonful of bluing and 2 teaspoon- fuls of whiting, and bring to a boil. Apply hot, let dry, and rinse off the clear water. Or make a paste of equal parts of whiting, soap, and sal soda with a small amount of bluing; apply with a piece of felt or velveteen and rinse with clear water. Wipe dry, and pol- ish with a flannel cloth or chamois. Or dissolve 1 pound of pipe clay in 1 quart of boiling water. Add 1 quart of beer and a few drops of bluing. Bring to a boil and stir. Apply this freely with a cloth, wipe dry, and pol- ish. To Remove Iron Rust from Marble. — To remove iron stains from marble, dilute 1 part of oxalic acid with 10 parts of alcohol, or 1 part of sul- phuric acid with 25 to SO parts of al- cohol; cover the spot and let stand HOUSE CLEANING 295 IS minutes to a half hour. Wash off with water containing aqua ammonia to stop the action of the acid. Re- peat if necessary. Or cover the spot thickly with salt and moisten with lemon juice. Or apply 1 part of nitric acid dilut- ed with 25 parts of water, and rinse with aqua ammonia. Or apply strong nitric acid direct to the stain by means of a small swab or cloth, or cotton on the end of a stick, and at once rinse off with aqua ammonia and water. Remember that the acid tends to eat and injure the marble if it is not immediately rinsed off; hence rinse well. If the surface of the marble is roughened by the acid, scour with a moist cloth dipped in rotten stone or powdered pumice. Or cover the spot with salts of lem- on, and add just enough water to dis- solve the crystals. Or mix equal quantities of salts of lemon and piunice stone, and rub the spot with a cloth dipped in this mix- ture. Continue until removed. To Clean Marble Steps. — To clean coarse marbles, as doorsteps, monu- ments, and the like, mix equal quan- tities of qtiicklime and potash lye and dilute with water to a thin cream. Apply with a brush, let stand twen- ty-four hours or more, and wash off with hot soapsuds. To Remove Stains from Harble. — Cut a lemon in half and rub with it, or apply a saturated solution of oxalic acid. Or make a paste of equal parts of whiting and sal soda dissolved in water. Cover the stains, and let stand for several hours. Afterwards wash off with soapsuds. To Kemove Oil Stains from Marble. — Apply common clay, starch, whit- ing, or prepared chalk, and saturate with gasoline or other petroleum product. Should these injure the pol- ish, scour with a moistened cloth dipped in pumice stone, and polish with whiting. Or mix with boiling water 2 ounces of soft soap, 3 ounces of caustic pot- ash, and 4 ounces of fuller's earth. Cover the spots thickly, and let stand for several hours. Rinse with clear water. To Polish Marble. — For poUshing marble, sandstone, sand and water, emery powder, putty powder, tripoli, and whiting are all recommended. But the coarser materials, such as sandstone and fine sand, should only be used on rough marble which has never been previously polished. Select material suitable to the condition of the marble, and follow with a finer one until the desired polish is ob- tained. To polish a rough marble slab, use first a level block of fine sandstone for working down. Cover the surface with water and rub with the sandstone in a circular motion, working outward from the center until the whole sur- face shows a uniform texture. Next tack a piece of felt to a smooth block of wood and use a finer quality of sand or glass powder with water. Follow this with a fresh piece of felt mounted on a level block of wood, using fine emery powder with water, and lastly use putty powder or tripoli with water and a chamois skin mount- ed on a block of wood. To Clean Brick and Stone Walks. — To remove the green fungous growth on brick or stone walks and walls ex- posed to moisture, pour over them boiling water in which potatoes or other vegetables have been cooked, pro- vided that it does not contain grease of any kind. Repeat if necessary. Or pour strong brine over the brick or stone, or scatter dry salt over it just before or after a rain. This will also kill any tufts of grass and weeds that come up between the bricks and stones, but care must be taken that it is not used in quantities sufficient to leach off into the soil and kill the ad- jacent grass of the lawn or the plants in flower beds. Hence use a small quantity of salt, and repeat if neces- sary. To Polish Stucco Work. — Let the stucco dry, then rub it down with a flat block of pumice stone. Follow with whiting and polish with tripoli, HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES using a piece of felt mounted on a block of wood. Wash down with soapsuds. To Polish Mother-of-Pearl. — Polish with finely sifted pumice stone, fol- lowed by putty powder or tripoli mixed with water and applied with a piece of felt. To Clean Alaliaster. — Remove stains from alabaster by covering the spot with whiting and water, or with white- wash, or with salt and lemon juice. Or apply equal quantities of quick- lime and soda made into a thin paste with water. Let stand until dry, then wipe off with a sponge or soft cloth and clear water. Repeat if necessary. Or, to remove obstinate stains, ap- ply a dilute solution of oxalic acid or spirits of salts, and rinse with aqua ammonia. Or wash with castUe soap and water. Cover with a coating of whiting mixed with water, let stand until dry, rinse with clear water, and polish. To Polish Alabaster. — To polish alabaster, marble, or any similar min- eral, first clean the articles, then take out scratches or other rough spots with finely powdered pumice stone or emery and water. Polish with putty po\vder and water by means of a piece of felt mounted on a block. To Polish Glass. — A scratched win- dow pane or a show-case top which has been roughened by use and par- tially lost its transparency may be polished by covering with a strong solution of potash lye applied by means of a brush. Let it dry, and polish with a moist cloth. Repeat if necessary. Or, if this is not effectual, polish with putty powder and water by means of a piece of felt. To Clean Papier-mache'. — Wash with clean cold water, using a sponge or soft cloth. WhUe still damp, cover it with dry flour and rub dry with a piece of woolen cloth or chamois. To Clean Gutta Percha. — Dissolve with gentle heat a little hard white soap in an equal bulk of water, and stir into the soap jelly thus made an equal bulk of powdered charcoal. Scour the article with this, and polish with a dry cloth and finely powdered charcoal. CLEANIITG KITCHEN STOVES AND OTHEB HETALS To Clean Stoves. — First examine the stove or range to see if any parts need replacing. Make a note of these, and obtain new ones from the manufactur- ers or some local merchant. Remove "See if Any Parts Are Needed." clinkers, clean the grate, fireplace, spaces under and over the oven, flues, etc. Dust off the top of the stove, and wash the outside with very hot water and soda applied with a stiff brush or a coarse cloth, or both. Suggestion's for removing rust and polishing nickel and other ornaments, and for blacking and polishing the stove and preventing rust when not in use, will be found elsewhere. To Hake a Hearth. — Prepare mor- tar by mixing sifted wood ashes vrith salt and water in the proportion of 1 tablespoonful of salt to 1 gallon of ashes. Spread this over the hearth with a trowel, and tamp it down as hard as possible with the end of a log of wood, or otherwise. Level smooth- ly with the trowel. Make a hot fire in the fireplace or HOUSE CLEANING 297 grate. If the mortar cracks, add* more, tamping it into the cracks. This makes a hard, smooth white surface. Or mix 3 parts of unslaked lime and 1 part of smith's black dust with water, and treat as above. To Clean Grates. — Brush the dust ^ from the grate with a stiff brush. Then mix 4 ounces of pure black lead with 1 pint of beer, add 2 ounces of hard white or yellow soap, bring all to a boil, and while hot apply this mixture with a paint brush. Allow it to cool, then polish with a hard brush or polishing mitten. Or, if the grate is much rusted, al- low the black lead to remain for a day or two. It wiU loosen the rust so that it can be scraped off. The grate may then be blacked and polished. Or first scrub the grate with soap and water and apply rotten stone moistened with sweet oil. Black and polish. To Black Grates. — Melt 2J pounds of asphaltum and add 1 pound of boiled oil. Remove from the fire, and when cool add 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine, stirring vigorously. Ap- ply with a brush. Or melt 6 J pounds of asphaltum; add 1 pound of litharge and 1 gallon of boiled oil. Boil untU the mixture falls in strings from the stirrer. To test, put a little on a glass plate. If on cooling it becomes quite hard, re- move the mixture from the fire, and when cold, thin to any desired con- sistency by adding 3 or more gallons of spirits of turpentine. To Prevent Bust. — Substances rec- ommended for preventing rust are various animal fats, as lard, suet, and tallow, and oils, as linseed oil, olive oil, vaseline, etc.; also black lead, paraffin, collodion, quicklime, gutta percha, varnish, pitch-tar paint, and • various mixtures of these. The ob- ject in all cases is to prevent contact of the metal with the oxygen of the air, especially where there is mois- ture. The formation of rust is a process of combustion similar to that which takes place in breathing and in the burning of fuel and other combusti- bles. The oxygen of the air uniting with iron forms a compoimd called ferrous oxide, which is iron rust. This action is very much hastened by mois- ture. Hence a coating of any oily, greasy, or sticky substance which will adhere to the metal without injuring it will prevent rust. Which of the following recipes is best will depend upon the article to be protected, and whether or not it is to be used or stored away. Such substances as col- lodion, paraffin, and black lead mixed with lard or other animal fat, boiled linseed oU, etc., can be used on small polished articles, as steel tools, skates, and the like. They can be readily re- moved, when necessary, by washing. Paraffin, collodion, boiled linseed oU, and copal varnish may be applied to tools and other articles which are in process of use, the excess being wiped off with a dry cloth. Pitch tar and paint can, of course, only be applied to coarser articles according to their several characters. Stoves — To Prevent Bust. — To pro- tect from rust stoves and stovepipes that are taken down in the spring and stored during the summer, apply kero- sene with a brush or cloth. The crude oil is better for this purpose than the refined. It costs less and does not evaporate so quickly. Or melt 3 parts of lard with 1 part of rosin, and apply with a brush while warm. Or apply linseed oil, or a mixture of equal parts of linseed oil and kero- sene. Or a mixture of 4 parts of linseed oil, 4 parts of kerosene, and 1 part of turpentine. Apply the above mixtures in a thin coat while slightly warm. To Protect Stovepipes from Bust. — Shake the dirt and soot out of the inside of the stovepipe, then insert an old broom and brush out as clean as possible. Paint the outside of the stovepipe with a coat of black paint, or apply any of the above rust-proof mixtures. Stovepipes rust on the inside as 298 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES \ well as on the outside. Hold the pipe with an open end toward a good light, or reflect a light inside by means of a mirror. Affix a brush to a long han- dle and cover the inside of the pipe Reflect a Light Inside." as well as the outside with oil or other rust preventives. To Keep Nickel Pittings from Rust- ing. — Remove the nickel fittings from the stove, cover them with any of the above preventives, wrap them in thin cloths, and lay them away until wanted. Or cover them with unslaked lime. Or, if badly rusted, go over the nickel fittings with aluminum paint. To Prevent Rust. — To prevent rust on tin roofs and other exposed metal surfaces, bring to a boil 2 pounds of linseed-oil varnish. Stir into this a mixture of 3 ounces of black lead, 8 ounces of sulphide of lead, and 2 ounces of sulphide of zinc. Apply with a brush. Or paint exposed metal surfaces with a paint consisting of 30 parts of pure white lead, 8 parts of crude linseed oil, 3 parts of boiled linseed oil, and 1 part of spirits of turpen- tine. Apply two or more coats as needed. To Preserve Metals from Bust. — To preserve stoves, skates, sleigh runners, and other steel articles which are stored for a portion of the year, smear them with vaseline. Or paint them with lampblack mixed with equal quantities of boiled lin- seed oil and copal varnish. Or use powdered black lead and lard, melting the lard and. stirring in the lead, and add a small piece of gum camphor. Apply while warm with a brush. Or melt paraffin, and apply while warm with a brush, sponge, or cloth. Or clean thoroughly and dust over with unslaked lime. Or plunge small articles into un- slaked lime. Or dip the articles in boiled linseed oil and allow it to dry on them. Or apply a coat of copal varnish. Or melt S pounds of beef or mut- ton suet, 1 pound of gutta percha, and 1 gallon of neat's-foot oil or rape oil until dissolved. Mix thoroughly and apply when cold. Or coat with collodion dissolved in alcohol. Or wrap in zinc foil or store in zinc- lined boxes. Or mix 1 ounce of oil varnish with 4 ounces of rectified spirits of turpen- tine and apply with a sponge. Or heat the articles and dip them in train oil. To Prevent Bust on Tinware. — Rub new tinware with fresh lard, and heat in the oven before using. This tends to make it rust proof. To Preserve Nails, etc., from Bust. — ^To preserve from rust nails, screws, hinges, and other hardware that will be exposed to water, heat them (but not enough to injure the temper) in an iron skiUet over a fire and drop them into train oil. This will pre- serve them for many years. Or mix i pound of quicklime in 1 quart of water and allow it to settle. Pour off the clear liquid and add to the lime sufficient olive oil to form a stiff paste. Apply with a brush to iron or steel articles to be stored. Or, for rough castings and fence wire, mix mineral pitch, coal tar, and sand in the proportion of 1 pound each of coal tar and sand to 20 pounds of mineral pitch. Immerse the articles in tjie mixture, remove them, and let them stand a day or more to harden. HOUSE CLEANING To Prevent Rust on Piano Wires.' — Sprinkle piano wires with unslaked lime. Steel Table Knives. — Fill a flower pot or other deep receptacle with quicklime and into it plunge the blades of the knives. Do not allow the lime to touch the handles. To Bemove Rust from Small Arti- cles. — Substances recommended for removing rust are muriatic acid, kero- sene, chloride of tin, and unslaked lime used with or without various abrasives, as sandpaper, emery paper, pxunice stone, powdered brick, and the like. First immerse the articles in a hot solution of sal soda or soapsuds to free them from oil or grease. Or dilute muriatic acid with twice its own bulk of water and immerse the articles from a few minutes to several hours, according to the amoimt of rust. Remove and apply soap and water with a scrubbing brush. Re- peat if necessary. Rinse, dry, and polish with oil and emery paper or other good abrasive. Or immerse the articles in kerosene oil for several hours, or as long as may be necessary. This loosens the rust so that it may be rubbed off with sandpaper or emery paper. But if the rust has etched deeply into the articles, they may have to be refinished. Or soften rust with sweet oil and rub with sandpaper. Or mix 3 parts of pumice stone with 1 part of sulphur. Moisten with sweet oil and apply with chamois. Or use emery and oil. Or immerse the articles in a saturat- ed solution of chloride of tin over night, or as long as necessary. Rinse in clear water and polish with cham- ois. Or immerse tham in olive oil, and polish with whiting or slaked lime by moistening a cloth or chamois and dipping it into the dry powder. To Glean Zinc. — Substances recom- mended for ' cleaning zinc are kero- sene, soft soap, salt and vinegar, vine- gar and aliun, paraffin, coal ashes, sulphuric acid, turpentine, and vari- ous compounds of these. As zinc is not easily injured, these may all be used freely. Rub with a coarse cloth saturated with kerosene oil. Or heat 2 ounces of salt or 2 ounces of alum in 1 quart of vinegar and ap- ply hot. Wipe with a dry rag. Or dip a cotton cloth in melted paraffin and rub until the dirt is re- moved. Rinse with clean water and wipe dry. Or wet with cold vinegar, let stand for a few minutes, rinse, and wash. Or make a soap jelly by dissolving hard soap with twice its own bulk in water. Mix with sifted coal ashes to a stiff paste. Apply with a moist cloth. Or mix dilute sulphuric acid (1 part of acid to 10 parts of water) with glycerin. Or mix 1 pint of linseed oil with 4 ounces of turpentine. Or polish with bath brick. To Glean Nickel. — Substances rec- ommended for cleaning nickel are kerosene, jeweler's rouge, whiting, powdered borax, and alum. When not much soiled, use jeweler's rouge and vaseline mixed to a thin paste. Apply with flannel and polish with chamois. Or dampen a rag and dip in pow- dered borax. Or, if the articles are small and movable, boU in alum and water. Or rub with a cloth dipped in kero- sene. To Clean Brass. — Substances recom- mended for cleaning brass are vine- gar and salt, lemon juice, citric acid, oxalic acid, rotten stone, turpentine, alum, ammonia, sulphuric, nitric, or muriatic acid, and various compounds of these. To clean brass kettles and other utensils, dissolve a tablespoonful of salt in a teacupful of vinegar and bring to a boil. Apply as hot as pos- sible to the brass with a scrubbing brush. Or apply a solution of oxalic acid with a scrubbing brush or cloth, using equal parts of oxalic acid and water. 300 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or apply strong aqua ammonia with a scrubbing brush. Or dissolve 1 ounce of alum in 1 pint of strong lye and apply with a scrubbing brush. Or mix 6 ounces of rotten stone, 1 ounce of oxalic acid, 1 ounce of sweet oil, and J ounce of gum arable, and dissolve to a thin paste with water. Apply with a cloth. Or use rotten stone moistened with sweet oil. Apply with a cloth mois- tened in turpentine. Or mix 1 ounce of bichromate of potash, 2 ounces of sulphuric acid, and 3 ounces of pure water. Do not touch this with the hands, but apply with a mop. Or wet a cloth in water, dip in pow- dered sal anunoniac, and apply. Or mix 4 ounces of rotten stone, 1 ounce of oxalic acid, and 1 ounce of sweet oil with turpentine to form a paste, and apply with a. brush mois- tened in water. Or dissolve 1 ounce of alum in 1 pint of strong potash or soda lye. Immerse the articles in this solution or apply hot with a scrubbing brush. Or dissolve 1 ounce of alum in 8 ounces of water and apply hot with a scrubbing brush. To Polish Brass. — After removing tarnish with any of the above cleans- ers, wash the article with warm soap- suds made of any good, hard white soap, dry with a cloth, and polish with dry chamois or any good silver polish, as whiting, or the like. Fin- ish by rubbing the articles with a cloth slightly moistened with vaseline. This will prevent tarnishing. Or coat with collodion dissolved in alcohol, or thin shellac applied by means of a camel's-hair brush, PACKING Packing — To Move. — Obtain plenty of barrels, and a relatively large number of small packing cases rather than a few large ones, a quan- tity of excelsior, burlap, and strong manila cord. Also a number of strong manila tags on which write, stamp, or print your name and the address to which the goods are to be shipped. Number these tags from 1 upward. Pack, as far as possible, by themselves articles from each sep- arate room or part of the house, and note in a blank book the contents of each barrel, case, or package. For example, if numbers 1 to 5 are china, and numbers 5 to 10 are kitchen hardware, the packages can be de- livered to the appropriate part of the house and unpacked as required without confusion. To Pack China. — Pack china and other fragile articles, also small me- tallic objects, as lamps, kitchenware, bric-a-brac, etc., in barrels rather than packing cases. To pack such articles, first cover the bottom of the barrel with a layer 3 or 4 inches " Nest Dishes Together and Pack on Edge." deep of excelsior or fine hay slightly moistened. Wrap each article sepa- rately in newspaper or tissue paper. Select the larger and heavier pieces and lay a niraiber of them side by side 2 or 3 inches apart. Stack plates and platters together, with just enough packing material between them to sep- arate them i of an inch or so, and stand them on edge. Nest together in the same way cups and saucers, HOUSE CLEANING 301 sauce dishies, and other articles of similar shape and size, putting a lit- tle packing between, but handling the entire nest in packing as one solid article. Take special care to protect handles and other protuberances so that no strain will be likely to come upon them. Surround these dishes with a layer of excelsior or hay 3 or 3 inches in thickness, crowding the packing ma- terial also between them, and finally cover them with a layer of equal thickness. On this lay a number of other articles of somewhat smaller size and less weight, surrounding, separating, and covering them with several inches of packing material, and pressing all so firmly together that they cannot be shaken out of place. Shake the barrel occasionally, and if any two pieces are not prop- erly separated by the packing mate- rial, the fact can be detected by the sound of their contact. Continue to add successive layers until the barrel is filled within 4 or S inches of the top. Fill in this space with packing material, heap it up, take off the top hoop, throw over the top a piece of burlap, replace the hoop, and tack It securely so as to hold the burlap in position. Fas- ten on the burlap near the top a tag containing your address on one side and on the other the words, " Fragile —This Side Up With Care." To Pack Cut Glass. — Cut glass and delicate bric-a-brac, lamp shades, and the like may be packed in the same manner as china, or carefully wrapped in cloth and packed in bar- rels surrounded with pillows, or placed in trunks containing clothing, or in clothes baskets surrounded by pillows and covered with burlap. Barrels and baskets crated and marked "Fragile" will be handled with much more care than wooden cases, the lids of which are nailed or screwed on. To Pack Pictures. — Pack small pictures face to face, with blankets or quilts or other folds of heavy cloth between, and lay them in bu- reau drawers, with thick layers of clothing above and below them. Or place two large pictures face to face separated by a quilt, tie them with strong cord, and surround the whole with a crate of rough boards. To Pack Ulrrors. — Place two mir- rors face to face, with several thick- nesses of cloth between, and crate them. To Pack Purniture. — Remove all movable parts from furniture, as the splasher racks from washstands, mir- rors from bureaus, and the like. Re- move the casters, tie together with stout cord those belonging to each article of furniture and attach them to some part of the article or drop them into a bureau drawer. Thus they can be found when wanted. Pack the drawers with clothing and put small pictures, platters, and similar breakable articles between. Surround the whole with burlap sewed together at the corners, and crate with rough boards. Wrap the legs of chairs, serving tables, etc., with manUa paper, newspapers, or cloth, and wind them with a stout cord secured so that it wUl not slip. To Pack Books. — To pack a large quantity of books, use either a suita- ble number of small packing cases or barrels rather than a few large packing cases. Books are very heavy, and large packing cases are liable to burst open by their weight. Bar- rels are stronger, and if properly packed perhaps better than packing cases. To prepare books for pack- ing, wrap up together, in packages of six or eight or more, those books that are most nearly of the same size. Have at least one thickness of paper between each binding and around the entire package. Tie the package together with a soft cord so that the books cannot rub against each other. To pack books in bar- rels, handle these packages the same as articles of china or bric-a-brac, surrounding them with excelsior, hay, straw, or other similar material, or 302 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES with crumpled newspaper; except that not so much of the packing ma- terial need be used. The barrel may be headed up instead of covered with burlap, but care must be taken not to leave an inch of vacant space. Mark it " Books — Keep Dry." To pack books in small packing cases, stand the parcels on end, with the edges next to the sides of the cases and the back of the bindings pointed inward, and pack between crumpled newspapers to ease the pressure on the round part of the books, which may otherwise be pressed flat. Line the case with wrapping paper. Lay a thickness of wrapping paper over the top, and fasten on the cover with screws in preference to nails. Or, if nails are used, take care to see that they do not slip and injure the contents. Tools. — Pack in a hand satchel hammer, screw-driver, box opener, nails, tacks, and other necessary im- plements for unpacking and settling your goods, together with the book containing your inventory and list of packages. Then when the goods are unpacked, the movers can be di- rected to take each package to the proper room, and when any particu- lar article is needed it can be readily located and unpacked as required. Also, if any case is missing or in- jured, the exact contents will be known, and a sworn statement can be made out as the basis of a claim for damages. To Pack for Traveling. — To pack a trunk or satchel, first decide what to take with you. An old traveler describes his method of packing at short notice, without forgetting any necessary article, by saying that Ms method is " to commence with his feet and work up." The idea is to run over in mind the various articles of wearing apparel in that order. Thus, enumerate shoes, stockings, underwear, outer garments, linen, neckwear, etc. Determine what par- ticular articles and how many of each to select. Get these all together and check them up to see that nothing has been omitted. Add, of course, toilet articles, night gear, medicines, etc. Pack first the heavy things or those the last to be needed. Fold each garment and lay it smoothly in the trunk. Do not at- tempt to roll garments into tight bundles in order to economize space. Folded articles laid flat will pack more tightly. While packing, press down the con-^ tents occasionally to see that there are no lumps or other inequalities. To Pack Men's Coats. — Spread out the coat on a flat surface with the outside up. Fold the sleeves back at the elbows and draw them straight down at the sides. Turn back the front laps of the coat over the sleeves, pull the collar out straight, take up the coat at the sleeve holes, and fold it wrong side out length- wise. Thus the front flaps will be folded twice in. To Pack a Plaited Skirt. — Pin each plait in its place at the bottom of the skirt. Lay the skirt on a flat surface and fold to just fit the lar- gest part of the trunk or suit case. In other words, fold as little as pos- sible. To Pack Summer Gowns. — Remove the arm shields and fold the skirt in as few folds as possible. Fold the waist in the same fashion as a man's coat, stuff the sleeves and bust with tissue paper, put paper under ruffles, and surround the whole with tissue paper. But do not use white tissue for this purpose, as it is bleached with chloride of lime, which tends to turn white goods yellow. The blue tissue is therefore to be preferred. Or put waists on coat hangers and stuff the sleeves and bust with tis- sue, or lay them flat in the tray or top of the trunk. When thus packed, they will neither lose shape nor wrinkle. To Pack Hats. — Pin hats to the lids of hat boxes to prevent their moving around. Or improvise a hat box by laying the hat on the bottom of the trunk or tray, and cutting a strip of cardboard as high as the HOUSE CLEANING 303 highest point of the trimming. Pin this together at the ends, thus in- closing the hat, and lay a piece of cardboard across the top. Surround this with other articles packed firmly to keep them from shifting, and the hat will receive no harm. Uiscellaneous Objects. — Pack bot- tles inside of shoes. Pack a chafing dish in the middle of the trunk and fill up with small articles. Lay pic- tures in the middle tray between folded garments and fill the tray with clean starched clothes. Put summer gowns or evening gowns at the top of the tray, which should not be packed quite full. Pack in the bottom of the trunk a child's toy washboard. You can then do up for yourself small pieces at hotels and summer resorts where laimdry charges are high. CHAPTER XI HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN ^PESTS THE CLOTHES MOTH— CARPET BEETLE OR "BUFFALO MOTH"— THE HOUSE CENTIPEDE— THE COMMON COCKROACH OR CRO- TON BUG— THE BEDBUG— THE HOUSE FLEA— RATS AND MICE- BLACK AND RED ANTS— THE WHITE ANT— THE COMMON HOUSE FLY— THE MOSQUITO— ORCHARD, FARM, AND GARDEN PESTS THE CLOTHES MOTH History of Clothes Moths. — The life history of the clothes moth must be understood in order to fight in- telligently against it and prevent its ravages. It is well worth while to give the necessary attention to this subject, since of all household pests the clothes moth stands in the most direct and obvious relation to the family pocketbook. " A garment that is moth-eaten " has been mentioned in the Book of as these are among the most expen- sive materials used as garments, floor coverings, draperies, and otherwise, the destruction of such articles in a single season by moths may and often does amount to many dollars. The three species of moths common- ly found in the United States are the case-making species, universally distributed in the Northern States; the webbing species or Southern clothes moth, distributed through the Southern States as far north as or farther than the latitude of Wash- FiG. 1. — CoM-makirw Moth: Above, Fio. 2. — Southern Clothes Moth: Fig. 3. — Tapestry Moth- Adult: at Bight, Larva; at Left, Moth, Larva, Cocoon, and Adult Moth. En- Larva in Case. Enlarged (.from Empty Pupa Skin. Enlarged larged (from Bileu) Rileu). (.from Riley). Job, hence the moth is known to be very ancient and it is distributed in all parts of the world. The destruc- tive feeding habits of the larvae have caused them to be very carefully ob- served and studied, and there is abundant information as to preven- tives and remedial measures against them. Moths, as is well known, feed ex- clusively on animal substances, as woolens, silk, fur, and feathers, and ington, and the gallery species or tapestry moth, which is rare in the United States, and is found princi- pally in barns and carriage houses, infesting horse blankets and the up- holstery of carriages. The eggs of the case-making spe- cies, which may be called the North- ern moth, are laid but once a year, in the spring, the moths appearing from June to August. Professor Fernald states that the eggs are 304 HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 305 never hatched in winter in the North, even in rooms that are heated night and day; but in the South this species appears from January to Oc- tober, and breeds two or more times a, year. The webbing species or Southern clothes moth breeds twice a year, the first eggs being laid in May, and the second in August or September; hence in the North the moth is a summer problem, but in the South it must be fought the year round. The adult moths do no damage except to deposit the eggs from which the injurious maggots or larvae are hatched. Moths choose darkness rather than light, and select a quiet and secluded spot where they are not likely to be disturbed in which to deposit their eggs. They also ap- pear to prefer garments or other ar- ticles which are soiled with spots of grease or other organic matter, and the larvae appear to choose soiled spots or articles in preference to oth- ers. The eggs are very minute, and are usually deposited on woolens, feathers, furs, or other articles which are suitable food for the larvae; but the latter have the ability to crawl from place to place, if necessary, to seek proper food. Hence they may be deposited in crevices of closets, trunks, etc., through which the larvae may subsequently enter. The larva of the moth is a dull white caterpillar. The larva of the case-making or Northern moth sur- rounds itself with a movable case or jacket, but that of the webbing or Southern moth merely spins a cob- webby path wherever it goes. When the larva of the case-making moth is mature it becomes quiescent and un- dergoes a transformation in its case. After about three weeks the moth appears. The larva of the Southern moth when mature weaves itself a cocoon in which it undergoes a simi- lar transformation. To Prevent Hoths. — The facts above noted indicate the proper pre- cautions to be preserved. In general, the moths must be prevented from laying their eggs on valuable wool- ens, silks, furs, or feathers, and the eggs themselves, or larvae hatched from them, must be destroyed or re- moved before they can do serious damage. The measures necessary toi effect these results are: (1) a thor- oojgh cleaning of all wardrobes and other receptacles liable to be infected by moths, and of the floors, espe- cially the edges, on which woolen car- pets are laid. (2) Treatment with suitable preventives, and the frequent beating and brushing of woolen and other' articles, followed by exposure to outdoor air and sunshine. (3) Packing articles not required for im- mediate use in tight receptacles, after first removing from them all moths' eggs or larvae with which they may be infested. Various moth pre- ventives and moth destroyers have been discovered, all of which will be carefully indicated. Preventives Against Moths. — Pre- ventives against moths are of vari- ous kinds, as repellents, poisons, and various mechanical methods. Expe- rience indicates that moths are averse to strong odors; hence among repel- lents may be mentioned naphthaline, moth balls, camphor, and various es- sential oils and perfumed woods. Other repellents are pepper, tobacco, and the like. Various substances applied to wardrobes, floors, and other moth-haunted receptacles also act as repellents, but it must be clearly understood that they cannot be depended upon. They merely tend to discourage the visits of the moths, but they do not destroy the moths, their eggs, or their larvae; hence if moths are present, and es- pecially if the receptacle which con- tains them is tightly closed and un- disturbed, they will deposit their eggs, and the young will hatch and feed practically the same in the pres- ence of these repellents as otherwise. Hence other preventive measures are necessary to insure protection against them. Repellents for Moths. — Among substances recommended as repellents 306 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES against moths are paper dipped in melted parafiSn, cedar chests, cloves, cloths saturated with gasoline, sprigs of cedar, pine, or other evergreens, tallow candles, wood soaked with carbolic acid, pieces of Russia leath- er, and lavender. To Destroy Moths. — Chemicals and methods recommended for destroy- ing moths are fumigation with hy- drocyanic-acid gas or sulphurous- acid gas, the application of bisulphide of carbon, various petroleum products (especially gasoline and benzine), tur- pentine, solution of alum, corrosive sublimate, carbolic acid, chloroform, and the application of steam or hot water. To Fight Uoths. — In general, the following methods are recommended: in April or May, at the time of spring house cleaning, carry out of doors the contents of all wardrobes, bureau drawers, boxes, etc., contain- ing woolens, furs, feathers, or other articles made of animal products, and empty them on a large quilt or sheet spread upon the grass. Choose for this purpose a clear, sunny day with a gentle breeze. Hang large articles on the line and beat them; afterwards brush them carefully with a stiff whisk broom, especially un- derneath the collars, lapels, and oth- er similar places. Turn pockets in- side out and brush them. Let them air in the sun as long as possible. Shake and brush thoroughly the smaller articles. Finally separate those that are likely to be used dur- ing the summer months, and lay aside all others to be packed in moth- tight receptacles and stored. While these articles are airing, ap- ply suitable moth destroyers to the inside of the empty wardrobes, chests of drawers, and boxes, and, if con- venient, set them out of doors in the sun to air. Return to closets and chests of drawers the articles likely to be in constant use during the summer. Wrap those to be stored in newspapers or tar paper, carefully sealing the opening witii flour paste, and label the packages. Or fold the articles in suitable paper, place them in pasteboard or wooden boxes, and paste strips of paper around the covers and joints and over all cracks so as to make the receptacles moth proof. Adult moths cannot bite, hence they are unable to make their way through the thinnest layer of paper or other protective covering. The larvae will not ordinarily chew wood, cotton, linen, or paper, especially newspaper, but both the moths and their larvae will penetrate very mi- nute cracks and crevices. Hence protection is to be found only in tightly closing all such openings with paper and paste. Put no dependence upon moth balls or other repellents. To Protect Clothes Against Uoths. — Clothing in closets, wardrobes, or chests of drawers not sealed may be protected against moths by tight bags or sacks of cotton or linen, or by wrapping in newspapers carefully pasted together at the edges; but at least once a week the contents of wardrobes and all articles of wool, fur, or feathers not sealed against moths should be carried to the open air, shaken or beaten, brushed thor- oughly, and hung on a line to air during the heat of the day. This practice is also advisable on grounds of hygiene, personal cleanliness, and economy. Clothing thus cared for will last longer, present a fitter ap- pearance, and be free from germs, mold, and other forms of impurity. Substituting oiled or painted bare floors, and using rugs instead of car- pets in summer time are effective measures against moths, but if car- pets are used, care should be taken to sweep with especial thoroughness along the edges between the carpet and the baseboard. To Hepel Moths. — Line drawers and other receptacles with newspa- pers or wrap articles in newspapers. Moths do not like printer's ink. Or place articles in unbleached cotton bags. Moths do not like cot- ton. Or put gum camphor in and about HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 307 the articles. Or shavings of cedar wood or camphor wood inclosed in small cotton bags. Or put allspice, black pepper, the seeds of the musk plant, tansy leaves, lavender flowers, juniper berries, or bits of sponge, paper, or linen mois- tened with turpentine, or Cayenne pepper or tobacco or, in fact, almost any substance or combination of sub- stances which has a strong pungent and lasting odor, in and among the articles to be protected. Probably crystals of naphthaline are as effec- tive as any repellent that can be mentioned. Or place a vial containing chloro- form, and having a small slit or hole in the cork through which it can slowly evaporate, where the fumes will penetrate the articles. To Destroy ItCoths. — Fumigate with hydrocyanic-acid gas or sulphur . or camphor. Or brush out and dust the inside of closets, wardrobes, and chests of drawers, brush floors that have been or are to be covered by woolen car- pets, and wash the woodwork, espe- cially all cracks and crevices, with hot soapsuds. Then apply a strong solution of alum dissolved in boil- ing water (1 or 2 pounds to the gallon). Or a strong solution of carbolic acid or spirits of turpentine, kero- sene, benzine, or gasoline. Or a solution of creolin in water. Apply any of these by means of a brush or spring-bottom oil can or atomizer. Take care to work it into ^the cracks by means of a small brush, a long feather, or otherwise. To Protect Carpets from Uotlis. — Sprinkle the floor with turpentine. Benzine, gasoline, or petroleum, or scatter peppermint or other fragrant herbs upon it, before the carpet is laid. Or, if a carpet becomes infested while on the floor, sponge the infest- ed spots with a solution of 60 grains of corrosive sublimate dissolved in 1 pint of alcohol. Or apply gasoline freely to the carpet by means of a sponge, brush, atomizer, or sprinkler. Or apply turpentine freely. Any of these will destroy the eggs and larva;. Or sprinkle borax freely about the edges of the carpet and work it into the pile of the carpet beneath heavy pieces of furniture and other spots that cannot be easily swept. Or spread a damp towel above the suspected places in the carpet and iron it dry with a very hot iron. Do the same round the edges of the carpet, under heavy furniture, and at other places not frequently swept. The hot steam destroys the eggs and larvae. Or, if necessary, take up the car- pet, beat it as clean as possible, re- move the grease spots, and sponge carefully on both sides with a mix- ture of 1 pint of turpentine to 1 gallon of water. Wash the floor with hot suds made of borax with the addition of turpentine, and apply around the edges a strong solution of alum, carbolic acid, or creolin. To Protect Furs from Moths. — Beat the furs, using preferably a piece of rubber hose. This will not "Beat Furs vHth Rubber Hose." cut or tear them. Comb them over with a steel comb and expose them to direct sunshine in the open air. Shake and brush each piece care- fully, wrap it separately in newspa- per, paste the edges tightly, label it. 308 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES and lay it away in a drawer, chest, or wooden box where the paper in which it is wrapped will not be broken. Or, to prevent accidental breaking of the wrappers, lay the packages in pasteboard or wooden boxes and seal the joints with newspaper and paste. Cedar chests, moth balls, or other re- pellents are not necessary if all moths, eggs, and larvae are first removed and the furs are packed tightly; but there can be no objection to sprinkling naphthaline crystals, red or black pepper, various essential oils, and other substances having strong odors among the furs, or to wrapping up in them pieces of gum camphor, tallow candle, etc. Or, instead of newspapers, put the articles in tight pillow slips or un- bleached cotton bags, tying these tight- ly at the tops. Moths will not pene- trate cotton or newspaper. Or furs may be washed in a solution of 13 grains of corrosive sublimate in 1 pint of warm water. Cold Storage for Furs. — Many fur- riers and most of the large depart- ment stores in cities have arrange- ments for placing valuable furs in cold storage during the summer months. A temperature as low as 40° F. will prevent the depredations of moths, and many warehouses maintain as low a temperature as 20° F. These estab- lishments insure furs against loss or damage. Mixtures for Moths. — Dissolve 4 ounces of alum in 1 pint of water. Add 4 ounces of salt and i pint of spirits of turpentine. Or dissolve 1 ounce of camphor and 1 ounce of carbolic acid in 1 pint of benzine. Or dissolve 1 ounce of gum cam- phor and 1 ounce of red pepper in 8 ounces of alcohol. Petroleum Products for Moths. — Gasoline, benzine, and naphtha may be freely applied to all woolen goods, gar- ments, carpets, upholstered furniture, and the like by sprinkling or saturat- ing the articles by means of a small watering pot having a fine spray, an atomizer, a sponge, brush, or rag. Or they may be applied freely to floors, the inside of wardrobes, and other receptacles. Or turpentine may be used in the same manner as petroleum products. Corrosive Sublimate for Moths. — Mix in a glass bottle 1 ounce of cor- rosive sublimate and J pint of water. Let stand a day or two and shake oc- casionally. Then add J pint of alco- hol. Apply to cracks in floors, ward- robes, drawers, and other receptacles, or other suspected places. The liquid soaks into the wood, leaving a thin powder of corrosive sublimate on the surface. Do not allow this mixture to touch brass or copper. It is very poisonous to human beings. Camphor for Moths. — This is mere- ly a repellent and does not destroy moths. Gum camphor may be wrapped up in articles to be stored, or placed in and about articles in wardrobes and chests, or it may be dissolved in al- cohol and sprinkled upon them, but the former is the better method. Tobacco for Moths. — Tobacco may be used in the form of snuff sprinkled on articles stored away, or in and about floors, wardrobes, etc. Or fine- cut tobacco may be sprinkled freely in the receptacles, or among the arti- cles themselves, or about floors or im- der woolen carpets; or a strong in- fusion of tobacco steeped in water may be used to wash or sprinkle wood- work, or applied to cracks and crev- ices, etc. Pepper for Moths. — Black or Cay- enne pepper may be freely sprinkled in receptacles or among the articles themselves. Borax for Moths. — Borax may be used with water to make suds to wash woodwork, or scattered dry about floors or the inside of receptacles. To Trap Moth Millers. — A deep dish partly filled with sweetened mUk, on which a candle is floated, support- ed by a piece of light wood or a cork, is said to form an effective trap for moth millers where they are very nu- merous. To Store Furs and Woolens. — A cedar-wood chest, in which to store HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 309 furs and woolens against moths, was formerly thought indispensable, but many substitutes are now in use that are cheaper and just as good. Empty lard cans which may be had of butch- ers and grocers are excellent. They are light, tight, and take up little room. Ordinary tin bread or cake boxes are good, but they must be wrapped up in paper or have paper pasted over the joints. Large paper flour sacks are excellent. The tops must be pasted together after the ar- ticles have been inserted. Or pasteboard boxes that are used by dealers to deliver garments, or dry- goods boxes lined with newspapers or with tarred paper pasted carefully to the insides. Or old trunks lined in the same manner. Or a cask or barrel that has been used for whisky, wine, or alcohol, and still smells strongly of alcohol. To Store Bedding. — Line a large dry-goods box with several thick- nesses of newspapers pasted smoothly on the inside, or use one or more lay- ers of tarred paper. Shake and air the articles, fold and pack them in this box, and paste papers on the cov- er in such a way that they will pro- ject several inches outside. Fold these edges downward and paste them to the sides of the box so as to make a tight joint, and finally tack down the lid. Moths in Feathers. — Moths will not get into feather pillows, feather beds, etc., unless the ticks are ripped or torn, but should they infest feathers, the best remedy is to boil the feathers for half an hour or more, and after- wards wash and dry them. Or soak feathers thoroughly with benzine or gasoline. To Store Garments. — To protect winter garments, such as suits, over- coats, and the like, left hanging in closets or wardrobes during the sum- mer, place one or more suits and over- coats on a good clothes hanger and prepare a bag of unbleached cotton or any old cotton cloth large enough to cover the whole while hanging in its natural shape. Draw this up over the garments and tie at the top with a hard knot. A section of a barrel hoop covered with cotton cloth and having a piece of old broomstick fastened between the two ends of the' crescent makes a good clothes hanger. A pair of trousers may be folded and hung over the rod, and coats and overcoats hung upon the convex side. A piece of stout twine or wire may be adjusted in the middle to hang by. To Prepare Sarments for Packing. — Wash or dry-clean all woolen gar- ments before packing them away for the summer. Remove especially all grease spots, which are very attractive to moths, and by decaying tend to in- jure the fabrics. This takes time, but saves clothes and money. To Clean Purs. — Before packing, clean dark furs by heating bran or oatmeal. Rub this thoroughly into the fur while warm. Remove by shak- ing and repeat if necessary. Beat the furs with a piece of rubber pipe and comb them with a steel comb. Clean white furs by laying them on a flat surface and rubbing them with bran moistened in warm water. Ap- ply the bran with a flannel, rub until dry, and afterwards apply dry bran. Shake clean, and apply magnesia against the grain of the fur. Shake, beat, and air well before packing. To Pack Clothes. — ^Wash, dry-clean, shake, and air. Button coats and waists; fill sleeves and bodies vrith crushed newspapers. Place one upon another. Newspapers prevent creases. In folding skirts and trousers, place newspapers, not crushed, where the folds come and fold them inside the garments. Wrap loosely in newspa- pers separate articles .when folded, and store them in boxes, trunks, or chests lined with newspaper or tarred paper. Label each package sepa- rately. Wrap silk, linen, and other delicate articles in colored tissue papers. Chem- icals used to bleach white paper will turn them yellow. Do not use news- papers. 310 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES To Remove Odors. — Musty and oth- er unpleasant odors in goods packed and stored may be prevented by sprinkling charcoal in and about the articles, and putting lumps of char- coal in the receptacle in which they are stored. To Store Silk. — To prevent silks or woolen goods from turning yellow when packed and stored, break up a few pieces of genuine white beeswax, fold loosely in cheese cloth, and place among the goods. Wrap up the arti- cles in old white linen or cotton cloth. Do not use white paper. It will turn them yellow. To Pack and Store Linen. — Wash linen articles, rinse without bluing or starch, and rough dry. To Store Lace. — Cover lace with powdered magnesia to prevent its turning yellow. Whitewash for Vermin. — Prepare whitewash as usual, and add to 1 gal- lon 4 ounces of corrosive sublimate or 2 ounces of powdered copperas pre- viously dissolved in boiling water. Alum Wash for Vermin. — Dissolve 1 or 2 pounds of alum to 1 gallon of water by boiling until dissolved. Ap- ply with an oil can, a brush, or other- wise. Benzine Wash for Vermin. — Make suds of hard white or yellow soap, using about J bar of soap to 1 pailful of water, and add 1 pint of benzine. Use to wash floors or woodwork. Ap- ply with a brush, mop, or otherwise. Phosphorus Paste for Vermin. — Mix 2 -drams of phosphorus with 2 ounces of lard, and add 6 ounces of flour and 2 ounces of brown sugar, making the whole into a paste with a little water. Add to this for rats or mice a small quantity of cheese. But remember that phosphorus is easily set on fire by friction, also that it must not be allowed to fall on the skin, as it burns the flesh, forming a dangerous ulcer. Hence pure phos- phorus, which is. a solid, is kept under water and handled by means of pin- cers or a sharp-pointed penknife. To mix the above, place the phos- phorus in a wide-mouthed glass bot- tle and pour over it an ounce or so of alcohol. Immerse the bottle in hot water until the phosphorus is melted. Cork it and shake vigorously until cold. Pour off the spirit, mix the phosphorus and lard, and add the other ingredients previously mixed to- gether. Salberg Vermin Wash. — Mix bi- chloride of mercury, 2 ounces ; spirits of turpentine, 6 ounces ; muriatic acid, 1 ounce; water, 100 ounces. CAEPET BEETLE OE "BXriTALO MOTH " The destructive habits of these common and injurious pests are well known. The mischief is done by this insect in its larval stage, when it feeds upon woolen goods, particu- larly carpets. It is then rather less Fig. 1. — The Carpet Beetle: a, Adult; b, Pujta, Ventral View; c. Pupa within Larval SHn; d, Larva, Dorsal View. All enlarged Urom Bileii). than a fourth of an inch in length, and is covered with stiff brown hair. It is often discovered working about the edges of carpets making irregu- lar holes or following the line of a floor crack, and thus cutting the car- pet in a long slit. It is most com- mon in the northern and eastern por- tions of the United States, and most active in the summer months, al- though in well-heated houses it may continue its depredations the year round. The adult insect is a black and white beetle, having a red stripe down its back. It is rather less than one fourth of an inch in length. The carpet beetle is rarely 'found in houses having polished floors with rugs, straw mattings, or oilcloth as floor coverings, and this fact suggestSi HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS Sll the most effective remedy. When the house has become infested with these insects, it is very difficult to eradicate them. Thorough house cleaning at least twice a year is advisable. And a special house cleaning toward the middle or latter part of the summer is particularly effective. Take up the carpets, beat them, spray with ben- zine, and hang on the line to air in the direct sunshine all day. Wash down floors and spray the floor and crevices about the baseboards with benzine or kerosene. Meantime open the windows and ventilate thoroughly before introducing a light. Fill all floor cracks and cracks about the baseboards with suitable crack-fillers, as elsewhere recommended, and, if possible, before relaying the carpet, cover the floor with a lining of tarred roofing paper. Tack the car- pet loosely, and occasionally look un- der the edges to see if insects have put in an appearance. In that case lay a wet cloth over the spot and iron dry with a very hot iron. Steam un- til the insects are exterminated. Or fumigate the premises with sulphur or bisulphide of carbon or hydro- cyanic-acid gas. THE HOUSE CEKTIFEDE This insect is most commonly found in moist, warm localities, as in cel- lars, closets, and bathrooms. Its well- known appearance, rapid movements, and the fact that its bite is supposed to be poisonous, causes it to be an object of alarm. The centipede prob- ably never bites human beings except in self-defense, but it is known to be carnivorous in its habits and feeds upon roaches, bedbugs, and other in- sects. The effect of its bite depends upon the susceptibility of the indi- vidual, but in the case of most per- sons, it is very slightly poisonous, causing an inflammation similar to that of a mosquito bite, which may be allayed by promptly treating it with aqua ammonia. This insect rarely occurs in suflicient numbers to make any special mode of treatment neces- sary. Open plumbing and care to avoid the accumulation of moisture in any part of the house are the best preventives. Bathrooms, closets, and other localities where they harbor may be inspected occasionally and the insect killed when they make their appearance by means of a wire or screen fly killer. THE COMMOIT COCKROACH OB CBOTON BUG Exterminators of Cockroaches. — Substances recommended to kill or disperse cockroaches are fumes of hydrocyanic-acid gas, sulphur, pyr- ethrum, bichloride of mercury, borax, phosphorus, plaster of Paris, arsenic, pokeroot, chloride of lime, hellebore, and various mechanical means of trap- ping the insects. To completely exterminate cock- roaches in dwellings, warehouses, libraries, and stores, fumigate with sulphur or hydrocyanic-acid gas. Or mix in a glass bottle 1 ounce of corrosive sublimate and J pint of water. Let stand a day or two and shake occasionally. Then add J pint of alcohol. Apply to cracks infested by cockroaches from an oil can or syringe. This liquid soaks into the wood and leaves a thin powder of cor- rosive sublimate covering the crevices. This is a deadly poison to cockroaches and other insects, but is also poison- ous to human beings and must be handled with the utmost care. Do not allow this mixture to touch brass or copper. Or mix equal quantities of grated sweet chocolate and powdered borax, or equal quantities of powdered sugar and powdered borax, and spread free- ly on shelves where cockroaches run, or spread on pieces of slightly mois- tened bread. Or spread phosphorus paste on moist bread in their runways or under a damp dishcloth, towel, or mop. Or mix in a saucer 1 part of plaster of Paris and 3 parts of flour, and place in the runways. Place near by another saucer containing pure water. 312 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Lay thin pieces of cardboard from one to the other as bridges and float on the water bits of thin board touch- ing the margin. The cockroaches eat the flour and plaster of Paris, become thirsty, and drink. The plaster then sets and kills them. This is an Aus- tralian method. It is simple, safe, and said to be very effective. Or scatter pulverized hellebore on shelves, behind bsiseboards, about sinks, etc. Or scatter hellebore on moistened bread, but remember that this is also poisonous to children and household pets. Cockroaches eat it freely. Or mix hellebore with molasses, powdered sugar, or grated sweet chocolate. Or mix arsenic with Indian meal or molasses. Spread on moistened bread. This also is a dangerous poison, and cockroaches will not take it as freely as other poisons. Or mix in saucers chloride of lime with sweetened water and place in the runways, with bits of pasteboard lead- ing up to the saucers and strips of wood floating on their surface touching the edge. Or boil 2 ounces of pokewood in 1 pint of water \5 or 20 minutes. Strain through cheese cloth, mix with moiasses, and spread on moistened bread or plates. Or dust the cracks, shelves, etc., with powdered pyrethrum by means of a pair of bellows or otherwise. This is especially useful in libraries, but it stupefies and does not always kill the cockroaches ; hence they must be swept up and burned. Or scatter fresh cucumber peelings in their runways. Or mix plaster of Paris, 1 part, oat- meal, 3 parts, powdered sugar or grat- ed sweet chocolate, 1 part; scatter on moistened bread and place near to open water. Or mix equal parts of carbolic acid and powdered camphor, and let stand imtil dissolved. Apply with a small paint brush to cracks and crevices haunted by them. But of aU the above, powdered borax, with or without flour, and pow- dered sugar, or both, is perhaps the safest and most useful remedy. It may be dusted freely on shelves, sinks, and kitchen floors, and also forced by means of bellows into cracks and crevices, about floors, baseboards, cup- boards, sinks, etc. It is cheap, and harmless to children and household pets, and is far superior to any so- called " cockroach powder " upon the market. To Trap Roaches. — Take any deep pasteboard or wooden box and substi- tute for the cover four pieces of win- dow glass slanting toward the center. Put bread moistened with molasses in the trap and place it so that the cock- roaches can easily get to the top. They fall from the glass into the box, and cannot get out. This is a well- known French device. Another trap used in England con- sists of any suitable box of wood or pasteboard having a roimd hole in the lid fitted with a glass ring and baited with bread moistened with molasses or other sweetener. Or take any deep china bowl or jar and put in it about a quart of stale beer or ale, of which cockroaches are especially fond, or water sweetened with molasses. Lean against this a number of pieces of pasteboard or any inclined surface bending over the top so as to project inside the vessel 2 or 3 inches. The Cockroaches climb up the inclined plane, slip into the liquid, and cannot escape. To Tlse Cockroach Traps. — Bait the traps freshly each night with any moist sweet substance, and destroy the catch of roaches each morning by fire or boiling water. Have traps al- ways at hand, and they will keep down cockroaches so that it will not be necessary to use dangerous poisons more than perhaps once. Crickets. — The celebrated story by Charles Dickens called " The Cricket on the Hearth," and the well-known superstition in regard to crickets, will perhaps prevent many persons from numbering these little insects among household pests. To exterminate them. HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 313 if desired, scatter snuff about their haunts, pour boiling water into cracks and crevices from which they emerge, or put ginger cordial in open saucers where they can partake of it. THE BEDBUG To Keep Down Bedbugs. — Each week on cleaning day air the mat- tresses and turn them. Use, if possi- ble, metal beds rather than wooden ones. Take down the bedsteads three or four times a year, especially at spring and fall house cleaning, and oil the joints with a mixture of kero- sene and turpentine. At spring house cleaning in March or April apply bed- bug exterminators thoroughly to kill the eggs that are laid at this time. Keep bedsteads dusted and cracks cleaned out at least once a week. Go over the bedstead inside and out with a cloth moistened in kerosene. Scat- ter wild thyme about the mattress and in the vicinity of the bed. The odor drives them away. Do not depend upon Persian insect powder. Poisons for Bedbugs. — Poisons rec- ommended for exterminating bedbugs are hydrocyanic-acid gas, sulphurous- acid gas, kerosene and other pe- troleum products, gasoline, benzine, naphtha, etc. ; hot water, with or with- out alum, chloride of zinc; turpentine, camphor, corrosive sublimate dissolved in alcohol, and various combinations of these. To thoroughly exterminate bedbugs, fumigate with hydrocyanic-acid gas or sulphurous-acid gas. This is the quick- est and most effective method. Or, if this is not convenient and the pests are numerous, take the paper off the walls, wash down the walls with boiling water containing sal soda and alum, apply one or more of the following eradicators, and repaper the walls. Take all bedding out of doors, beat and clean mattresses and other ticks, and apply gasoline to them free- ly with a sponge, cloth, or brush. Ap- ply suitable poisons to all cracks in bedsteads and other furniture. Re- place, if possible, wooden bedsteads with brass or iron ones, and carpet or matting with Tugs. Next to fumigation the best exter- minator is kerosene or other petroleum products, as gasoline, benzine, or naphtha. Take down the bedsteads, dust the j oints with a brush, and wash with soap and hot water. Boil cedar leaves in the water. While their scent lasts bedbugs will stay away. Thor- oughly oil all joints and cracks with kerosene, benzine, or gasoline from a spring-bottom oil can or with a small paint brush or long feather. Gasoline and benzine do not leave any stains. Hence use these freely about base- boards and on bedsteads where kero- sene might stain carpets or bedding, but remember that they are highly in- flammable. Use them only during day- light, and before introducing a lamp or lighted match, air the room until all odor disappears. Kerosene is less dangerous, and its stains wiU evaporate with time or may be taken up by such absorbents as whiting, prepared chalk, starch, and the like. Or use an equal mixture of turpen- tine and kerosene. Or fill all cracks after oiling with hard yellow soap or putty. Or with a soft, small brush go over the bedstead, springs, and woodwork with a generous coating of hard oil varnish. Work this into all cracks and crevices, and your bedbug troubles will be over. Or dissolve 2 pounds of alum in 3 or 4 quarts of boiling water, and ap- ply hot from an oil can or with a brush to all crevices in furniture, walls, or floors where bedbugs harbor. Or apply a weak solution of chloride of zinc. Or apply with a brush equal parts of blue ointment and kerosene oil. Or apply a mixture of 1 pint of benzine and J ounce of corrosive sub- limate. Apply from oil can or with a brush. Or i ounce of corrosive sublimate and 4 pint of alcohol. Or i ounce of corrosive sublimate and J pint of turpentine. 314 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or 1 ounce of corrosive sublimate, 1 ounce of camphor, 4 ounces of spir- its of turpentine, and J pint of wood alcohol. Apply from an oil can or with a brush. But remember that corrosive sub- limate is a deadly poison. Enemies of Bedbugs. — The common house cockroach is an enemy of bed- bugs, and the little red house ants also kill and eat them; but most per- sons would consider that to encourage such bedbug exterminators would prove a remedy as bad as the disease, THE HOVSE FLEA To Get Kid of Fleas. — The source of fleas is usually pet dogs or cats, but they may be brought into the house on clothing or otherwise. They do not breed freely in localities where their eggs are likely to be disturbed. Hence, contrary to the common sup- position, they do not usually breed on cats and dogs. But the eggs are laid in floor cracks and other crev- ices, or they fall from the fur of cats or dogs, usually where they have their sleeping places. Hence carpets and mattings favor the spread of fleas by leaving their eggs undisturbed in the breeding places. Fleas breed very rap- idly, especially in unoccupied houses. They are only to be kept down, when they get a foothold, by vigorous measures to insure cleanliness. Methods recommended for prevent- ing and eradicating fleas are the use of Persian insect powder, petroleum products, eucalyptus oil, oil of pen- nyroyal or sassafras, the leaves of pennyroyal or camomile flowers, and hot soapsuds; also washing animals with creolin, or, if necessary, fumiga- ting the premises with hydrocyanic- acid gas or sulphurous-acid gas. Dust Persian insect powder freely into the fur of domestic animals and into all cracks and crevices in the floor and walls about their sleeping places. Or, if this is not sufScient, spray the entire carpet Or matting and lower part of the walls and baseboards with benzine frOm a watering pot having a very fine nozzle or a spray-nozzle syringe. This must, of course, be done by daylight, and the room thoroughly aired before introducing any light. Or, if necessary, remove all floor coverings, take them out of doors, and scrub them with gasoline or benzine. Wash the floors with hot soapsuds containing 1 or 2 pounds of alum dissolved in hot water to the pailful. If pets are kept, do this as a pre- ventive measure when house cleaning, or before leaving the house when it is to be shut up for a long time. Or wash down the floors with hot water containing 1 pint of creolin to the pailful. This method is sure. About once a week saturate in this mixture the bedding used by domestic animals, and let it drip dry in the open air. If necessary, fumigate the premises with sulphurous-acid gas or hydro- cyanic-acid gas. Eucalyptus oil or the oil of penny- royal rubbed on one's wrists and ankles will keep off fleas in localities or dwellings badly infested with them. Or sprinkle either oil about sleep- ing places of domestic animals and on their fur. Mix with an equal quantity of alcohol and apply by means of an atomizer. If beds and bedding become infest- ed, spray them with this mixture. Or place twigs and leaves of penny- royal or camomile flowers in beds or kennels of cats and dogs or other in- fested localities. Substitute rugs for carpets in rooms frequented by do- mestic animals, also prevent the accu- mulation on the floor of litter of any kind, such as books, papers, and the like. No such accumulation should remain undisturbed more than a few days at a time. A good rule is, on cleaning day move everything. Professor Gates, of Cornell Univer- sity, has won international celebrity by a method of catching fleas in a badly infested building. He got the janitor to tie sheets of fly paper about his legs with the sticky side out, and to walk up and down the floop in the in- HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 315 fested rooms. A large number of the fleas jumped for his ankles, as they were accustomed to do, and were caught by the fly paper. IFleas on Domestic Animals. — To free domestic animals of fleas, sprin- kle their fur liberally with insect powder, or wash them in a decoction of pennyroyal, sassafras, mint, or other strong vegetable perfume, or in a creolin wash composed for dogs, 4 teaspoonfuls of creolin, and for cats, 2 teaspoonfuls to 1 quart of wa- ter. Apply the wash with the hands or with a brush, or submerge . the animals in it for about 5 minutes. If cats object to this process, place them in a bag composed of some strong washable material with a draw string, not too tight, about the neck, and immerse them for S minutes or SATS AND MICE To Destroy B,ats and Uice. — Meth- ods recommended for destroying rats and mice may be summed up as the use of poisons, traps, ferrets, fumigation, and the rat-proof con- struction of buildings. In addition, a bacteriological product has been dis- covered by the Pasteur Institute which communicates to rats and mice an infectious disease, not dangerous to man or other animals, by which they are completely exterminated. The loss to the United States from the brown or Norway rat alone is said to amount to several million dollars a year. These animals also spread the germs of Infectious disease from house to house, and the bubonic plague or "black death" from city to city. An exhaustive list of the destructive agencies employed against rats and mice in historic times would more than fill this volume; but most of them are worthless, and only a limited number are necessary. To Poison Bats. — Mix to a stiff dough 1 part of barium (carbonate of barytes) with 4 parts of corn meal, or 1 part of the barytes with 7 parts of water. Or spread barytes on moistened bread and butter or toast. Scatter these preparations in small quantities in the rat runs. This poison is with- out taste or smell, and in the small quantities that suflBce to poison rats or mice is harmless to domestic ani- mals. It acts slowly, and the ani- mals before dying will, if possible, leave the premises in search of wa- ter. Hence this is the safest poison to employ in dwellings. All recepta- cles containing water must be cov- ered while this or any other poison is in use, and care must be taken that there are no leaky pipes or pools of water on or near the premises. Or insert dry crystals of strych- nine in small pieces of raw meat, sausage, or toasted cheese. Place these in the rat runs. Or dissolve i ounce of strychnine sulphate in 1 pint of boiling water, add 1 pint of thick sugar sirup, and stir vigorously. Soak wheat or oat- meal in this strychnine sirup over night and spread it about the runs, but do not use strychnine in occu- pied dwellings, as it is an active poi- son, and the rats die in their holes before they can escape in search of water. Or make a dough of phosphorous paste with corn meal, oatmeal, or flour and a little sugar, and add a few drops of oil of rhodium or ani- seed. To make phosphorous paste, melt 1 pound of lard in a glass fruit jar, set it in boiling water, and when melted add J ounce of phosphorus and 1 pint of alcohol. Screw on the top and shake the jar vigorously to form a complete emulsion. Allow this to settle and pour off the spir- its, which may be used again for the same purpose. Or dissolve in a glass fruit jar J ounce of phosphorus in 10 ounces of warm water, and mix to form a stiff dough with 10 or 12 ounces of rye meal, 10 ounces of butter, and 8 ounces of sugar. Place small quan- tities of the dough in the rat run- ways. But remember that phosphorus 316 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES readily ignites by friction, and the rats may carry it into their holes and set the place on fire; hence it is not as safe to use as barytes or strych- nine. To Stop Eat Holes. — ^Where the rat holes are visible, pour a little water into them at night, and after the ground about them becomes damp, sprinkle a thin layer of caus- tic potash or chloride of lime in and about the holes. The damp potash sticks to the rats' feet and produces sores. In attempting to lick these they communicate the sores to their mouths. Rats caught in traps after the use of caustic potash are often found to have a mass of sores about the feet, tail, and mouth. They wiU usually leave the buildings before death. Hence where the holes can be found, this method is preferable to poison. Or the holes may be coated with soft tar, or stuffed with burdock or cockle burs. To Stop Mouse Holes. — Protect the bottoms of sideboards, cupboards, and the like with a layer of sheet tin; or cover mouse holes in plaster side walls with a piece of window glass set into the plaster and held in place by plaster of Paris. Filling the hole with plaster does no good, as the mice will gnaw through again. Or place a. little bag full of Cay- enne pepper in the hole. Or mix red pepper freely with the paste used to patch wall paper, and with it paste paper over mouse holes in the walls. Or line cupboards with newspa- pers or wall paper, using a paste that contains red pepper. Or plug mouse holes with newspa- pers soaked in a solution of red pep- per. Or hang a bag containing pepper- mint in infested cupboards, ward- robes, and the like. Or scatter mint leaves about shelves and drawers infested by them. Or mingle tartar emetic or nux vomica with suitable bait. This sickens mice without killing them, and discourages their visits. Camphor placed in trunks or drawers will repel mice as well as moths. This is especially useful to preserve flower and garden seeds from mice. Mix gum camphor with the seeds freely. It will not harm them. To Trap Eats. — Use preferably the thin flat rat trap of iron or steel having a coUed spring and wire fall released by a baited trigger. When rats are numerous, procure several of these and scatter them about the premises. The trap should be large enough and the bait adjusted the right distance from the mouth, so that the fall wUl strike the rat at about the back of the neck and kill it. The French wire-cage traps are also useful, and many homemade de- vices are recommended. A common cask partly filled with water may be converted into a. rat trap by taking out one end, cleating it, and replac- ing it, after rasping off enough of the wood around the edge of the head so that it will slip easily in and out of the barrel. Drive a cou- ple of large wire naUs at opposite sides of the head, and balance the head on them across the top of the barrel. Cut a notch on either side as sockets for the nails to prevent the head from slipping. Before using tWs trap, tack one or two shingle nails into the rim of the barrel so as to temporarily prevent the head from tipping, and place any suitable bait on the head of the barrel for a few days or a week, so that the rats will become accustomed to feeding there. Fasten pieces of raw meat to the head of the barrel by means of glue or tacks, taking care that it balances evenly, and remove the shingle nails. When the rats renew their visits, the first one to step on the edge will cause the head of the barrel to re- volve on itself and drop him into the water beneath, when, if properly ad- justed, the head will resume its place and be ready for the next comer. Or the head of the cask may be HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 317 covered with stout wrapping paper and baited for a few nights. Then a couple of slits may be made cross- wise in the middle of the wrapping paper and reenforced by means of pieces of whalebone glued to the pa- per and running along the cut edge "A Cask Covered with Paper. and on to the uncut margin. The rat walking to the middle of the sheet causes the paper to give way and drop him inside. The whale- bones spring the paper back to place, in readiness for the next. To Bait Traps. — Bait rat traps with pieces of bologna sausage, oat- meal, toasted cheese, buttered toast, sunflower seeds, or pumpkin seeds, or all of these used in succession. The bait must be changed frequently, as rats are very suspicious, and the location of the traps must be fre- quently* changed. If wood or steel traps are used, insert a stick through the trap after baiting, light a bun- dle of paper, and smoke it thorough- ly. This covers the scent of the hands. Or place a few drops of oil of rhodium or aniseed on or about the trap. This covers the scent of the hands, and also seems to attract rats and mice. Or, if wire rat traps are used, af- ter catching one or two rats, do not release, but feed them. They thus act as decoys for others. When a number have been caught, place the trap in a tub of water to drown them. A correspondent suggests releas- ing live rats after coating them with a mixture containing phosphor- us. Mix with water to the consist- ency of milk 4 ounces of glue, 4 ounces of asafoetida, and 3 ounces of potash, and add J ounce of phos- phorus dissolved in a little alcohol. Shake the whole to form a complete emulsion. Catch one or more rats in a wire cage. Take a pronged stick having prongs about as long as the rat's neck is thick, wedge the fork just behind the animal's ears, and pin him firmly to the floor. He can be held in this position without risk or difficulty. Roll a bit of newspaper into a tight cylinder, set fire to one end, and with the lighted end singe the hair from his back. This can be done without burning the flesh. Fix a smaU paint brush on a long stick and after dark apply a coating of the phosphoric mixture, slightly warm, to the animal's back, and release him near his hole. Just what impression is produced by what seems to be the ghost of a departed rat reappearing in his old haunts would be hard to say, but those who have tried the experiment report that no rats remain in the vicinity to give an account of their sentiments. Rats in Poultry Houses. — Traps or poison used to exterminate rats in poultry houses must be protected from fowl invasion. This can be done by inverting over the trap a wooden box or cheese box, with holes cut in the sides through which the rats can enter. As an additional precaution the poison may be placed under a smaller box having holes through which the rats can merely insert their noses without entering, and inverting the large box over the small one. This will prevent the poi- son from being scattered within the large box near enough to the open- ings to be reached by fowls. Tack these boxes to the floor on to stakes firmly driven into the ground so that they cannot be shoved about. Dogs and Ferrets for Rats. — Fer- rets in charge of an experienced per- 318 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES son will drive rats out of their bur- rows so that dogs can capture them. The ferret is the rat's most deadly- enemy, but ferrets in the hands of amateurs are not always a success. When rats attack a stack of grain, hay, or straw, or take refuge beneath it, they may be exterminated by building around the stack a tempo- rary inclosure of fine mesh wire net- ting several feet high, and pitching the stack over the netting, to be re- laid outside. One or more dogs or ferrets may be placed inside the in- closure to take care of the rats which endeavor to escape while the straw is being removed. A similar method is employed to entrap the rats by natives in the rice fields of the far East. Temporary piles of brush and rice straw are built in which the rats accumulate. The stray? is then removed and the rodents are destroyed. Pumigation for Rats. — Rats which burrow in fields, levees, or rice-field dikes may be destroyed by satura- ting a wad of cotton in carbon bi- sulphide, pushing it into the opening of the burrow, and packing down the soil. Farm buildings are usually not tight enough to admit of fumi- gation with this or any gas. Rat-proof Construction. — The use of concrete and cement in construc- tion is the best means of abating the rat nuisance. All sorts of farm buildings and other structures are now being constructed of concrete. Edison predicts that dwelling houses will shortly be made of this material from cellar floor to chimney top. The foundations of all buildings and even whole cellars may be made rat proof by this means at very slight expense. Fill rat holes with a mixture of cement, sand, and broken glass or sharp bits of stone. Line galleries, corn cribs, and poultry houses inside or outside with fine mesh wire net- ting. Or lay the floors and founda- tions in concrete, extending it up on the sills. Invert pans over the posts of corn cribs, but be sure to make these high enough so that the rats cannot jump from the ground on to the posts or sills. The posts should be at least 3i feet high. Ratite for Rats. — We make no apology for quoting in full the follow- ing extract from a circular of the Pas- teur Vaccine Company, whose prod- ucts are for sale by leading drug- gists or can be obtained of the mak- ers. This preparation is so unique and effective that we unhesitatingly recommend it, believing that all who try it will regard the suggestion as perhaps the best that could be given on the subject: " Until to-day, the usual means employed for ridding private houses, stables, corn and hay lofts, etc., of the rats, mice, and other small gnaw- ing animals which do so much dam- age there, were various chemical products, of which the principal ele- ments were arsenic, strychnine, nux vomica, etc., which destroyed them by poisoning. I " However, the desired result could only be thus obtained by each indi- vidual rat or mouse swallowing the bait, and this necessarily entailed a long time when the pests were nu- merous, and was even impracticable when large spaces required treating. " Moreover, the use of these chem- ical products was not without dan- ger for domestic animals, and hence could not be used in poultry yards, stables, kennels, pheasantries, farms, etc. Children have even been ' poi- soned in this way when the necessary precautions were not taken to pre- vent them from touching the bait. " Now, however, thanks to bacteri- ological science, which has made so much progress in the last few years, it has been established that certain microbes become pathogenic for small gnawing animals by giving them a disease peculiar to their species. • " This first fact thus made clear, we have undertaken to perfect the work already done in this direction, and have at last succeeded in prepar- ing a product which we call ' Ratite ' and which, when swallowed by rats HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 319 and mice, gives them a disease not only fatal but contagious, while, being peculiar to their species, it is quite harmless to all other animals. " ' Ratite ' thus possesses two big advantages over the means of de- struction employed up to the pres- ent, viz.; (1) "It is absolutely harmless to man, domestic animals, and game of all kind (feathered or otherwise). It can thus be utilized everywhere, in private houses, farms, stables, fowl runs, kennels, pheasantries, etc., without danger of any accident. (2) " Not only does it act as sim- ple poison by killing the rat or mouse which swallows it, but it con- tinues its work by contagion, inas- much as one of these rodents, hav- ing swallowed the ' Ratite,' not only catches the fatal disease but becomes an infecting agent among its com- panions, commimicating it by simple contact. " Lastly. The application of ' Rat- ite ' be'ng at once simple and with- out danger (see directions for use) in addition to its real efficacy, will in- sure its being preferred to all other systems of destruction employed up to the present. "Directions for tlse. — Pour out the virus in a clean basin, and cut up small cubes of bread (pref- erably crust) of about 1 c.c. Well soak the bread until it has thor- oughly absorbed the liquid, taking care that the bread does not become too pulpy. " Coarse oatmeal or ' Quaker Oats,' which readily absorb liquid, may be used instead of bread, and this vehi- cle is recommended for large areas. " Both the preparation and distri- bution of bait should be carried out in the evening and spread about in places frequented by rodents — as far a^ possible in their holes. Six to eight days after distribution of the bait its effects will be apparent, but should any rodents remain after fif- teen days, a second application should be made at once. The best results are obtained by one application of a given quantity of virus rather than by extending it gradually over a. lon- ger period. " The virus should be used within twenty days of its preparation, which is marked on the bottle, and if not employed immediately should be kept in a dry, dark, and cool place (a cellar, for instance). " It will be noticed that the bot- tles are not full, the empty space being necessary for its preparation. " The odor of this virus is no sign of deterioration. " The operator should have his hands free from cuts or sores, and wash them well after preparing and distributing the bait." We would recommend that if other means prove ineffective " Ratite " be given a trial. BLACK ATSm BED AITTS Ants. — The means employed to keep the house free from ants are of three sorts: preventives, poisons, and mechanical methods. To Get Kid of Ants. — Place lumps of gum camphor in their runways and near sweets infested by them. Or scatter snuff in their runways, or branches of sweet fern or fresh green sage leaves or the leaves of green wormwood, or lumps of brim- stone or flowers of sulphur or red pepper or powdered borax. Or scrub shelves and drawers with strong carbolic soap. Or inject diluted carbolic acid into crevices whence they issue. Or inject gasolirie. Place any of these substances in their runways, and scatter it about shelves, pantries, and floors near where sweets are kept. Or place preserves, cake, and other sweets attractive to ants in refrig- erators, or small closets, boxes, or tables raised on legs set in pans of water. Add a tablespoonful of kero- sene oil to the water to form a scum of oil over the top. To Trap Ants. — ^Place near their runs a bit of raw meat or a bone HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES with scraps of meat or a piece of bread moistened in molasses on a bit of board or wrapping paper. The ants will swarm on this, and may be lifted and dropped into the fire or a kettle of boiling water. Or dip a good-sized sponge in a sirup made by dissolving borax and sugar in boiling water. Wring out the sponge nearly dry, attach a string to it, and lay it in their runways. Have ready a second sponge prepared in the same way. As soon as the first is infested with ants, lift it by the string and drop it into a vessel of boiling water and substitute the second. Meantime rinse the first, moisten it with sirup, and so con- tinue until all are destroyed. Either of these plans will exhaust an ordi- nary colony of ants in a very few days. The sirup containing borax will also kill those which get away from the sponge and escape the boiling water. To Destroy Ant Nests. — First lo- cate the nest by placing coarse sugar where the ants can find it. Each ant will take up a. load of this and go directly to the nest. The red ant often nests in the walls or floors of houses; hence is difficult to eradi- cate. Trace the ants to the crevice whence they emerged, and inject kerosene, gasoline, or, better, bisul- phide of carbon into the opening. If this fails, the nest is probably some distance off, and it may be necessary to take up a few boards to locate it. When found, apply kerosene, gaso- line, or carbon bisulphide. The small black ant ordinarily makes its nest under stones in the yard. The large black or pavement ant also builds out of doors under pavements or flagstones in yards. To destroy these ants, locate their nests and drench them with boiling water or kerosene. Or introduce carbon bisulphide into the ground near the nest. To do this, drive a hole into the ground with an iron bar, introduce an ounce or two of this substance, and cover it by immediately filling the hole solidly with earth. Or dissolve 3 pounds of alum in 3 or 4 quarts of boiling water and pour this into the nests. Or dissolve J oimce of cyanide of potassium in 1 pint of water. Pour this into the hole and saturate the ground about it. Plug the hole with cotton and saturate it with this mix- ture. But remember that it is a poiaon. Or pour into the hole a strong so- lution of carbolic acid in water. To destroy the large mounds or ant-hills, make a number of holes in the mound with a bar or large stick, and pour an ounce or two of carbon bisulphide into each hole. This sub- stance is not expensive and can be used freely. Close the hole immedi- ately with the foot. The bisulphide will penetrate to all parts of the ant- hill and kill the whole colony. THE WHITE ANT This name is a misnomer, as the insect is not a member of the ant family, although its appearance and habits are similar. It is common throughout the United States, but most numerous and active in the Southern States, and in moist lo- calities. The insects feed upon mois- tened or decayed vegetable matter, as the timber of buildings, books, papers, and the like. They burrow into the interior of these objects and sometimes riddle them through and through, so that they crumble into a mass of dust before any outward indication of their presence is ob- served. Preventive Heasures. — ^To prevent the ravages of the white ant, founda- tions of buildings, especially in warm climates and moist localities, should be of stone or cement, and should raise the walls well above contact with moisture from the soil. A clear space of gravel or asphalt next to the foundation, and the removal of de- cayed wood or vegetable substances, is helpful. Or impregnate wood that comes in contact with the ground, or that is HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS sn likely to be damp for any reason, with creosote. Or use for such purposes Califor- nia redwood, which is not eaten by these insects. Destruction of White Ants. — The only certain remedy is the fumigation of the premises by hydrocyanic-acid gas. Frequent inspection of any ac- ciraiulation of books and papers is advisable. THE COMUON HOUSE FLY To Banish Flies. — The preferred breeding place of the house fly is the manure pit of horse stables. The female lays about 130 eggs, which hatch in six or eight hours. The mag- gots or larvae reach full growth in four or five days, and become adult flies in about five days more. Hence in the United States a single genera- tion is bred in about ten days, and twelve to fifteen generations on an average every summer. Thus enor- mous numbers of flies may be hatched in a single manure pile. The only effective means to prevent or reduce this nuisance is to board up a portion of the barn cellar, or build a lean-to against the horse stable hav- ing a tight trapdoor or screened win- dow admitting to the stable, and a tight door to permit of removing the manure. Such precautions to prevent the entrance of flies, and thus to de- prive them of their natural breeding place, have been proved by experience in Washington and other cities to greatly abate this nuisance. In France the Matin, a Paris news- paper, offered a prize of 10,000 francs during the winter of 1905-6 for the best means of lessening this nuisance. The prize was awarded by scientific men for a proposal to use residuum oil in all cesspools and similar places. For each square yard of the pit mix 2 quarts of the oil with water, and throw into the receptacle. This covers the surface with a scum which kills all larvae, prevents flies from en- tering and laying their eggs, covers the contents, and also assists in pre- venting the development of the bac- teria of germ diseases. The same sub- stances may be mixed with earth, lime, or phosphates, and spread upon the manure in barnyards, stables, etc. Or scatter about horse stables saw- dust saturated with dilute carbolic acid, 1 part of the acid to 100 parts of water. Disease from Flies. — The fact that flies carry the germs of typhoid and other filth diseases is now so well es- tablished that no one can have a clear conscience who is responsible for an open vault or drain or an exposed manure pile, if there is sickness in his household or neighborhood. In the country, farmhouses are usually far enough apart, so that the responsibil- ity for the abatement of this nuisance rests upon the head of the family. But in towns and villages the re- sponsibility rests upon the local board of health, who, upon complaint being made, have in most cases ample power to enforce sanitary measures. To Destroy Flies. — The various household measures against flies are the use of screens, poisons, adhesive fly papers, traps, and various preven- tives. Have screens for every window and door in the house. Removable wire screens on adjustable or other wood frames are, perhaps, most conveni- ent. These may be inserted in the windows at will and removed when not wanted. Or a wooden frame may be made the full size of the outer casing of the window and covered with wire or cloth netting. This may be inserted in the spring and removed in the fall, or, if desired, and wire net is used, may be left during the winter, especially in the upper rooms, to prevent children from falling out when the windows are open. Or a cheap, handy way to screen against flies is to tack mosquito net- ting to the outer window casing so as to cover the whole window. This is always out of the way, will last one season, can be torn down in the fall, and replaced cheaply and easily 322 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES in the spring. If there are children, have the screen door made in two sec- tions, an upper and a lower, so that only the lower section opens when the children go in and out. The flies set- tle mostly on the upper part of the door. Hence this arrangement keeps out many flies. Adjust the two sec- tions so that the whole door opens when pulled from above. Flies will come down the chimney even when there is a fire in the grate. Hence screen the chimney by means of wire netting across the top. Have screens either half or full size made for each window on the same principle as a. screen door, to fit into the outer frame and open outward. Hinge on the right side top and bot- tom, same as a door, and place hooks or bolts on the left side top and bot- tom to fasten in place. Use double hinges,' and in the fall the screen can be lifted, leaving half of the hinge on the window frame. Protect this with suitable oil or paint, and the screen can be adjusted in the spring with little trouble. Or tack wire or cloth screen to the outer frame of the window, to cover either the lower sash or the entire frame. Or this may be done from the in- side by tacking at the side first, then all around, and facing below. Or, if the outside shutters are no longer in good repair, they may be converted into frames for screens. Cut out the shutters from the frames and replace with wire screen cloth. These are very convenient, as they cover the whole window, and when it is being washed, or it is otherwise desirable, the screens can be opened out of the way. In winter time they can be taken from the hinges and by varnish- ing the wire to prevent rust they can be preserved from year to year. To Mend Screens. — To mend a wire window or door screen that has not become too rusty to work with, take a square piece large enough to reach firm wire on all sides of the damaged part. Ravel the edges of the patch, taking off two or more wires on each side to leave a fringe. a quarter of an inch or more in width all around. Then, with the flat side of a pair of pincers, bend this fringe down at right angles. Place the patch in posi- tion and push the bent fringe through. Bend the fringe in toward the center, and place it in firmly by putting a small board against it and hammering it gently on the other side. The patch will hold, and flies cannot crawl un- der its edges. Preventives Against Flies. — Flies are said to abhor sweet clover. Place in bags made of mosquito netting and hang them about the room. Or sprinkle about the room oil of sassafras or oil of laurel. The latter has been used by the butchers of Geneva from time immemorial. Or use oil of lavender or lavender buds. Or soak houseleeks for five or six days in water, and wash pictures, fur- niture, and woodwork with the de- coction. Or boil onions in a quantity of water and wash picture frames, mold- ings, and delicate woodwork, using a. soft cloth or a brush. To prevent flies from settling on windows, wash them in water contain- ing kerosene and wipe with a rag moistened in kerosene. To Make Poisonous Fly Paper. — ^To make poisonous fly paper, dissolve 6 drams of chloride of cobalt and 3 ounces of brown sugar in 1 pint of boiling water. Saturate blotting paper with this solution and put a small square of the paper in a saucer of water, or use the solution itself, but remember that it is a deadly poison. Or mix 1 teaspoonful of laudanum and J teaspoonful of brown sugar with 2 tablespoonfuls of water. Ex- pose in saucers. Keep away from children and pets. Or boil J ounce of quassia tips in 1 quart of water, and add 8 ounces of molasses or brown sugar. Or dissolve 3 drams of mastic of quassia in J pint of water, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses or brown sugar. HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 323 Or make strong green tea and sweeten with sugar. Or mix J teaspoonful of black pep- per and 1 teaspoonful of sugar with 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Or mix 1 tablespoonful of black pepper, 1 tablespoonful of molasses or brown sugar, and the yolk of 1 egg. Beat to a paste. Flies will eat freely any of the above if exposed where they congregate, and will be killed by them. To Make Sticky Fly Paper. — Melt J pound of rosin, and dUute to the consistency of molasses with 4. ounces or more of sweet oil or lard oil. Spread this with a brush on two or more sheets of manila wrapping paper, leaving an inch or more margin all around. Place the sticky surfaces of each pair of sheets together, and when wanted pull them apart. This is also a useful preventive against ants and other insects. THE MOSftTJITO Dangers from Upsquitoes. — A world-wide campaign is being carried on to exterminate the piosquito pest. The reason of this is found in the re- cent discovery, that mosquitoes are the sole means whereby malaria and yel- low fever are communicated to man, and the suspicion that they com- municate other diseases. The fact that mosquitoes and malaria seem to go together has long been noted, and like- wise the fact that malaria seems to be contracted after nightfall, but un- til recently the part played by mosqui- toes in communicating malaria was not understood. The notion that the mists arising from swamps and stagnant water at nightfall convey the germs of malaria to man is now quite ex- ploded. In 1880 Lavaren, a surgeon in the French army at Algiers, first identified the parasites of malaria in human blood. In 1898 two English- men, Manson and Ross, showed posi- tively that malaria is transmitted by mosquitoes. In 1900 two English physicians, Sarabon and Lowe, occu- pied a house in one of the most mala- rial districts in the world, the well- known Campagna in Rome. The house was screened against mosquitoes. The two men were quite free from malaria and chills, while people living near by in houses not screened were fever-rid- den. Mosquitoes which had bitten malarial patients were sent to Eng- land and allowed to bite persons who had never had malaria or been ex- posed to it, but who thereupon devel- oped typical cases of the disease. Similar experiments made by a med- ical commission of the United States Army near Quamados, Cuba, prove that the mosquito also transmits yel- low fever. The commission erected a small wooden building tightly sealed and screened against mosquitoes. For 63 days seven noncommune men occu- pied this building. They used un- washed bedding from the beds of genuine yellow-fever patients without contracting yellow fever. In another experiment a house was built having two rooms separated by wire screens. The house was tightly screened against mosquitoes. Its en- tire contents were disinfected, and both rooms were occupied by persons not immune to yellow fever. Mosqui- toes which had bitten yellow-fever pa- tients were placed in one room, but not in the other. In the room con- taining no mosquitoes none had yel- low fever, but in the other room six out of the seven that were bitten by mosquitoes developed genuine cases of the disease. These experiments led to scientific observations which have proved that a certain species of mos- quito — ^the Anopheles — ^is present in all malarial and yellow-fever districts, but apparently not elsewhere ; and also that the germs of malaria required for their development during a part of their life history occur as parasites in the bodies of the Anopheles mos- quito. These facts are stated at length to remove all doubts about the connec- tion between malaria and yellow fever and the mosquito, and to impress the fact that such diseases are prevent- able. If they occur in any locality, 324 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES the responsible heads of families can- not have a clear conscience until they have sought and removed the cause — namely, all near-by ponds or puddles of stagnant water in which mosquitoes breed. life History of Uosqmtoes. — ^The mosquito passes through four distinct stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The female deposits her eggs, from 75 to 300 in number, toward the lat- ter part of the night or early morning on the surface of stagnant pools. She rarely deposits them on running water or pure water that is frequently stirred. The egg hatches in about twenty-four hours or more, according to temperature. It produces the larva or well-known wiggler or wiggletail which everyone may see in rain barrels or pools of stagnant water. The young larva rests just beneath the surface of the water, but breathes the outer air through a respiratory tube located at the tip of the abdomen. The larvae cannot live more than a minute or two if unable to reach the surface to breathe, and to this fact is due the common method of destroying them by means of a film of petroleum on the surface of the water. In five or six days the larvae change into pupae. In about two days more these assume the form of the ordinary adult mosquito. Hence in hot weather a generation of mosquitoes develops in from eight to ten days. Consider- ing the number of eggs laid by a. sin- gle female it will be readUy seen that coimtless millions of these pests may breed in a single pool, pond, or swamp during one summer season. To Destroy Mosquitoes. — Happily, the experiments of scientific observers seem to indicate that mosquitoes do not usually fly very far from the pools in which they were hatched. They re- quire as breeding places pools of stag- nant water that remain undisturbed for from ten days to two weeks, and they may be completely destroyed by covering the surface of these pools with a thin film of petroleum or kero- sene oil. Hence the problem of ex- terminating mosquitoes is strictly a local one, and the means are quite within the reach of every responsible person. Farmhouses are often far apart, so that all the mosquitoes about the house and farm buildings are bred on the place. Consequently, the re- sponsibility for exterminating them is purely an individual one. Or a group of neighboring farmers can often be persuaded to act in har- mony, or at least to permit an enter- prising neighbor to take measures to prevent the breeding of mosquitoes in their vicinity. School children may be encouraged to undertake the extermination of mosquitoes in an entire school dis- trict, or boards of health may be per- suaded to take up the problem and appoint voluntary or paid representa- tives to wage a war of extermination through the entire community. Kerosene for Uosquitoes. — ^To de- stroy mosquitoes, apply petroleum or kerosene oil to the surface of the pools, puddles, or marshes in which they breed. One ounce of kerosene is sufficient for IS square feet of stag- nant water. Thus a tank or pool 10 feet across would require about IJ pints of the oil. To apply the oil on small puddles, tanks, or pools, it is only necessary to pour it on the surface or scatter it to windward with a wide sweep of the arm. The oil wUl spread itself over the surface in a uniform film. But for larger ponds, marshes, and pools overgrown about the edges with grass or weeds which may prevent the oil from penetrating to every part, it is better to use an ordinary sprayer hav- ing a fine nozzle, such as is used for spraying fruit trees with Bordeaux mixture. This may be applied in pools by wading or from a raft or boat A single application of oil kills all eggs laid upon the surface and all wigglers previously hatched. The film of oil prevents their coming to the surface to breathe, hence they are suf- focated or "drowned." The oil does not prevent the female mosquito from attempting to deposit her eggs on the surface, but destroys her in the act HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 325 of doing so; consequently, until the oil evaporates, the breeding of mos- quitoes is totally prevented. The film of oil, if undisturbed, will not evapo- rate for a week or more, and at least ten days will be required after it has evaporated for a generation of mos- quitoes to mature. Hence in absolute- ly still water where there is no current to carry off the oU, two applications a month will be quite sufficient. In covered tanks, drains, and cesspools not exposed to the sun, one application a month should be enough. But those who are fighting mosquitoes must re- member that after a rain an old tin can, the print of a cow's foot in the mud, or a puddle left in a wagon rut or hollow may breed enormous num- bers of mosquitoes if it remains un- disturbed for a period of ten days or more. Hence a few days after a rain the ubiquitous small boy should be sent abroad with a small wat-erpot having a fine nozzle and containing a gallon or more of kerosene, and he should be instructed to cover the sur- face of these pools with a layer of the oil. Tin cans before being thrown on the dump should have the bottoms knocked out or a few holes punched in them with a can opener. An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. To Destroy Mosquitoes by Drain- age. — This needs little comment. Ob- viously, if swamps, pools, and the like have tile or other drains laid beneath their surface so that the water is en- tirely drawn off, mosquitoes cannot breed in them. But open drains are themselves favorite breeding places of mosquitoes. Hence these should be spread with oil, especially along the edges where grass and weeds make the current sluggish. If there is much current, they should be sprayed two or three times a month. Rain barrels, buckets, and all other receptacles about the premises in which water collects should be emptied at least once a week or, if possible, per- manently. Draining is the most satis- factory way to fight mosquitoes, as it is much easier to get people's interest in the subject thoroughly aroused by one concerted effort than it is to try keeping it up by spasmodic efforts from month to month and from year to year. Screens for Uosquitoes. — Cover with fine wire screens rain barrels, cisterns, and all receptacles for drink- ing water that cannot be treated with kerosene or emptied frequently, and go over them occasionally with a cloth moistened in kerosene, taking care not to let any oil drip into the water. This will effectually prevent mosqui- toes from squeezing through the screen to lay their eggs. To Destroy Kosquitoes with Tish. — The small pools, marshes, swamps, and streams having shallow pools with stagnant edges which are used as watering places for stock, and hence cannot be covered with kerosene, should be stocked with small fish, as the top minnow and the sunfish (or "pumpkin seed"). Both these species feed on the wigglers and will quickly rid any infested waters of them. The pumpkin seed is preferable, as it is equipped with spine rays which pro- tect it from the larger fish. But the top minnow is suitable for small pools and ponds where there are no pike or pickerel. When depending upon fish to keep the watering places of stock clear from mosquitoes, be on the lookout against prints left by the hoofs of animals in the mud on margins of ponds, where, of course, the fish can- not approach. These must be treated occasionally with kerosene. Household Remedies. — To screen all doors, windows, and other open- ings, including the entrance to the top of the chimney and to the cellar win- dows, against mosquitoes may be, in malarial and yellow-fever districts or during epidemics of contagious dis- eases, a matter of life and death, and is the best preventive at all times against the annoyance of the pests. An open porch or piazza fitted with movable screens or hinged screens that can be opened during the daytime if desired, is a great convenience and HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES luxury in mosquito-ridden districts. If mosquitoes crawl through the screens, rub the latter just at twilight with a cloth moistened in kerosene, or, if preferred, one of the essential oils, as pennyroyal or other preventives. Or burn Persian insect powder or pyrethrum in sitting or sleeping-rooms during the evening, moistening the powder with a little water and shap- ing it by hand to a rough cone about the size and shape of a chocolate drop. Place these cones in a pan and thoroughly dry them in the oven. When wanted, set fire to the top of one, which will smolder slowly and send up a. thin column of pun- gent smoke, not harmful to man but stupefying to mosquitoes. Two or three of these cones burned during the evening wiU give much relief from mosquitoes in sitting rooms. The smoke does not, however, kill the in- sects, and is merely a palliative. Or, to kill mosquitoes found in the evening on ceilings of sitting rooms or bedrooms, nail to the end of a broom handle or other suitable stick a shallow tin cup, such as the top of a blacking box, and wet the inside with kerosene. When this cup is placed under the mosquito, he drops or flies against the oily surface and is killed. The last two methods are recommend- ed by the United States Department of Agriculture. Or place a bit of camphor gum the size of a butternut on iron or tin and hold it over the flame of a lamp until it evaporates. Do not let it take fire. The smoke which fills the room wiU stupefy the mosquitoes. Or scatter oil of pennyroyal about the room. To Prevent Uosquito Bites. — Di- lute oil of pennyroyal with water, or make an infusion of pennyroyal leaves and apply to the hands and face, or rub the bruised leaves on the skin. Or apply camphorated spirits, or a mixture of 1 part of carbolic acid with 3 parts of sweet oil. Take care that this does not enter the eyes or mouth or any cuts or burns on the skin. Or use a mixture of 3 ounces of sweet oil, J ounce of creosote, and J ounce of pennyroyal. To Cure Mosquito Bites. — Apply aqua ammonia or salt and water or a decoction of tobacco or dilute carbolic acid. Or crushed smartweed leaves put on with a bandage. Or a mixture of 2 ounces of sper- maceti, § ounce of white wax, 1 oimce of camphor, and 2 oimces of olive oil. Melt with gentle heat and stir vigorously. Preserve in covered jars for use. Plant castor beans about the house. These are said to repel mosquitoes. OECHARD, FARM, AND GAEDEH PESTS Every farmer or family living in suburban or rural locations should invest in a good, practical spraying The Compressed-air Sprayer." outfit and have in readiness the nec- essary ingredients for the different kinds of solutions used for spraying quickly and conveniently. Such an outfit will save its cost many times over in the course of a. year on any farm, or even in a vegetable garden, HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 32T flower garden, or ordinary lawn with shadq trees and shrubbery. We quote from Dr. Wilhelm Miller, edi- tor of the Garden Magazine, as fol- lows: " The ideal way for you to insure yourself against all these troubles is to get a spraying outfit, costing about $r.SO. " I like best the compressed-air sprayers, because I am lazy^ and piunpirig is hard work. With a doz- en strokes of the plunger I can charge the machine in half a minute, and it will work automatically from six to fifteen minutes, according to the nozzle opening. It wiU spray three gallons with only two charg- ings. This is enough to cover a quar- ter of an acre of potatoes or straw- berries. " Seven doUars and a half may seem a lot of money, but a com- pressed-air sprayer saves its value the first year in the larger and bet- ter crops that you get. The outfits that cost less are generally more ex- pensive of time or material, or both. Moreover, a good spraying outfit is invaluable if you keep chickens, be- cause the best way to keep down lice is to spray the henhouse with kero- sene. Also you can spray whitewash (an excellent vermin killer and dis- infectant) in poultry houses and barns and on fences and walls much quicker than you can apply it with a brush. Also it is useful for water- ing plants, washing carriages, and applying shading material to hotbed sash or greenhouse glass. " However, no one should plead poverty as an excuse for not con- trolling the San Jos6 scale on his premises, because anyone can spray a few bushes with the aid of a pail and an old whisk broom. Just get a quart of the prepared lime-sul- phur-salt compound at any seed store for forty cents, and dilute it with fdrty quarts of water if you use it in November. From Decem- ber to February you can use it twice as strong with safety. "Many people buy these dollar squirt guns, which hold about a quart, but they are so slow and tire one so quickly that it is better econ- omy to buy something that works faster and sprays farther. " A bucket pump costs about $3.75 without the bucket, and this is the cheapest outfit I would recommend. But if you have any small trees to spray, you will want a pole with an extra seven feet of hose, which costs a doUar more. Then you will find that the liquid slops over unless you get a bucket with a cover that fas- tens down tight, and that may mean another dollar, or $5.75. By this time you wiU discover that it is very awkward to pump with one hand and hold up a seven-foot pole while spraying your fruit trees, and you will be willing to pay twenty-five cents more and get a compressed-air sprayer. " Now, if you are willing to spend $6 for a sprayer, you might as well pay $7.60 and get the best there is, for that includes an anti-clogging device, like the ' auto-pop,' which will save you the most exaspei'ating fea- ture of spraying. " Then you will have a brass tank, which cannot be corroded by chemi- cals or rusted like the tin and iron sprayers. It costs less than a knap- sack sprayer, and you can carry it over your shoulder with the aid of a strap, for it weighs, when loaded, less than forty pounds. You can throw any kind of a spray, from a solid stream to a mist that will en- velop a tree like a, fog. And you have only one thing to think of — no pumping except once in ten or fif- teen minutes." Becipes for Spraying. — The stand- ard preparations or solutions for spraying are as follows: Bordeaux Mixture. — This consists of copper sulphate, quicklime, and water. The " Standard " formula is: copper sulphate, 6 pounds; quick- lime, 4 pounds; water, 22 gallons. The "Normal" formula is: cop- per sulphate, 6 pounds; quicklime, 4 pounds; water, 45 gallons. More re- 328 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES cent experiments appear to favor a still more dilute solution. We recommend for a strong solu- tion: copper sulphate, 4 pounds; quicklime, 4 pounds; water, 50 gal- lons. For a weaker solution we recom- mend: copper sulphate, 2 pounds; quicklime, 2 pounds; water, 50 gal- - Ions. In compounding this mixture, first put the copper sulphate on a piece of cheese cloth, tying the ends to- gether so it will not spill, and sus- pend it from a stick in a bucket of water. ' Fill the barrel or tank to contain the solution half fuU of wa- ter, carefully measuring the amount used. When the copper sulphate is fully dissolved, pour it into the re- ceptacle. Thoroughly slake the lime and strain the milk of lime into the barrel. Then add sufficient water to make 50 gallons. Stock Solution. — Weighing the copper and lime at the time of mak- ing the mixture is sometimes incon- venient, but as the mixture deterio- rates if allowed to stand, it is not feasible to make it up in advance. It is, however, a good idea to make up stock preparations of sulphate of copper and of lime, and have them ready for mixing when required. The lime should be fresh quicklime and when slaked must be covered with water to keep out the air. Thus a stock mixture can be kept all sum- mer without harm. To prepare a stock solution of sulphate of copper, suspend some evening 50 pounds of copper sul- phate in 25 gallons of water. The next morning, if the water is well stirred, each gallon of water will contain 3 pounds of sulphate. This will form the stock solution of cop- per sulphate. The undissolved sul- phate must, of course, be removed. Put in the spray barrel 2 gallons of this solution, which is equivalent to 4 pounds of copper sulphate. FiU the spray barrel half full of water before adding the lime. This is nec- essary, because if lime is added to a strong solution of sulphate of cop- per, the mixture will curdle. Now stir up the water in the lime barrel so as to make a dilute milk of lime, but do not let it get as thick as cream, otherwise lumps will form and clog the spray nozzle. To de- termine the amount of milk of lime necessary (which vrill depend upon the strength you desire), get from a drug, store a vial of ferrocyanide of potassium (yellow prussiate of pot- ash). Continue to add lime to the mixture as long as drops of the cyanide continue to change from a yellow to a brown color. When the change of color ceases, add another pail of mUk of lime to make the nec- essary amount a sure thing. A little too much lime does not do any harm. The barrel can now be filled with water, and the Bordeaux mixture is ready for use. This is the most generally useful treatment for fungous diseases. The strong solution (third recipe) may be used on most plants, but for cherry trees, peach trees, and water- melon vines, the weaker solution (fourth recipe) is to be preferred. Kerosene Emulsion. — Experiments seem to indicate that all soft-bodied sucking insects are destroyed by con- tact with kerosene. Pure kerosene may be applied to the hardier trees in winter when they are not grow- ing. For application to growing trees and foliage in summer, a mix- ture called kerosene emulsion is rec- ommended, as follows: hard, soft, or whale-oU soap, J pound; boiling soft water, 1 gallon; kerosene, 2 gal- lons. The soap is first dissolved in the boiling water, then the kerosene is added and churned by the pump from five to ten minutes. Before using, this must be reduced with wa- ter from one fourth to one tenth its strength. A strong emulsion must be used for scale insects, as the San Jos^ scale. For plant lice, thrips, red spiders, and mealy bugs, weaker solutions may be used. Soft-bodied insects HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS and cabbage worms, currant worms, etc., can be destroyed by these. The emulsion should be made shortly be- fore using. Formula for San ^os^ Scale. — A special formula for San Jos6 scale is as follows: whale-oil soap, 1 pound; boiling soft water, 1 gallon ; kerosene, 2 gallons. Mix, churn, and reduce with 6 times as much water as emul- sion. Use this in summer to kill the young and tender scales. Kerosene without Soap. — Kerosene and water, reduced as above, may be used instead of the emulsion with soap. This requires a pump with a kerosene attachment. Select for spraying a clear, windy day, so that the surplus mixture will evaporate rapidly. Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate. — This mixture is cheap, but is not quite as good as the Bordeaux mix- ture. It is not much used except on fruit that is nearly ripe and on flow- ering plants, when it is preferred, be- cause the Bordeaux mixture would stain them. This is a clear solution and leaves no stains. The formula is as follows: copper carbonate, S ounces; ammonia (36 per cent Beaum^), 3 pints; water, 45 gallons. Mix the copper carbonate with a little water into a paste. Mix the ammonia with 7 or 8 times its amount of water. Put the paste into the diluted ammonia and stir until dissolved. Add enough water to make 45 gallons. When it has set- tled, use only the clear blue liquid. Copper Sulphate Solution. — The same chemicals are used here as in the Bordeaux mixture. The formula is: copper sulphate, 1 pound; water, 15 to 25 gallons. Dissolve the copper sulphate in the water and it is ready for use. For peaches and nectarines, use the weak- er solution. This must never be ap- plied to foliage, but must be used in winter and spring before the buds open. A very much weaker solution — 1 pound to 250 gallons of water — can be used for trees in leaf in place of the ammoniacal copper carbonate. This solution may be combined with arsenical insecticides. Potassiwm Sulphide. — This is ex- pensive and is chiefly used for treat- ing seed grain for smut. The for- mula is: potassium sulphide, IJ pounds; water, 25 gallons. For spraying, use J ounce to 1 gallon of water. This is a very powerful germ killer. Corrosive Sublimate. — This is used on seed potatoes to prevent scab. The proper formula is: corrosive sublimate, 1 ounce; water, 7 gallons. This is also a disinfectant. It is very poisonous and corrodes metals. Formalin or Formaldehyde. — This is naturally a gas, but is sold com- mercially in the form of a 40 per cent solution in water. It is not a poison, but the iumes are irritating to breathe. It is the best fungicide for prevention of smut in grain and scab in potatoes. For seed potatoes the formula is: formalin, J pint; water, 15 gallons. Immerse the po-/ tatoes for 2 hours in this solution. The formula for seed wheat or oats is: formalin, 1 pound; water, SO gallons. Immerse the seed for the same length of time. Sulphur. — This is useful in pre- venting mildew on plants. Sprinkle dry powdered sulphur over the plants, or spray with the following solution: sulphur, 1 pound; water, 6 gallons. The fumes of burning sulphur are powerful as a disinfectant, fungicide, and insecticide, but they kill the plants as well. Hence sulphur must not be burned in hotbeds or green- houses. Paris Oreen. — The active principle of this well-known insecticide is ar- senic. It should be of a bright-green color, and should be bought of a re- liable dealer, because it is often adulterated. The formula varies in strength according to the use intend- ed. A general formula would be: Paris green, 1 pound; water, 100 to 250 gallons. For fruit trees, add 1 pound of quicklime to prevent injury to the 330 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVEEIES foliage. Paris green and Bordeaux mixture can be applied together with perfect safety, so as to spray for in- sects and fungous diseases at the same time. Add 4 to 12 ounces of Paris green to SO gallons of Bor- deaux mixture. This will kill all chewing insects. Paris green may be dusted on foliage in a dry condition. The for- mula is: Paris green, 1 part; flour, dust, or ashes, 10 to 20 parts. The proper solution for potato bugs is Paris green, 1 pound; water, 100 gallons. For peaches and other tender- leaved plants, use Paris green, 1 pound; water, 200 gallons. London Purple. — This contains ar- senite of lime and may be dusted on plants dry, the same as Paris green. When used in solution, the proper formula is: London purple, 1 pound; water, 200 gallons. This is more liable to cause in- jury than Paris green, and the latter is to be preferred. Paragrene and Green Arsenoid.— These are patented preparations, and when of good quality are per- haps as effective as Paris green. They are said to require less mix- ing. Paris green, London purple, and other arsenites above mentioned de- stroy injurious insects without dan- ger to the foliage, and there is no good reason for buying these or oth- er patented preparations that cost more and do not do the work any better. Whale-oil Soap. — For San Jos6 scale on dormant trees in winter use: whale-oil soap, 2 pounds; water, 1 gallon. For scale or aphis in summer use: whale-oil soap, 1 poimd; water, S to 7 gallons. This may be quickly dissolved by the use of hot water. Kerosene Emulsion — Milk For- mula. — Kerosene, 2 gallons; sour milk, 1 gallon. Agitate from 3 to i minutes with a pump. Add IS or 20 times its amount of water, ac- cording to the plants to be sprayed. Crude Petroleum. — This may be used in place of kerosene when it can be readily obtained. A crude petroleum emulsion is used on the Pacific Coast as follows: whale-oil soap, IJ pounds; distillate petroleum, S gallons. Pre- pare as for kerosene emulsion, and add 12 to 15 times as much water. Kerosene and crude petroleum in a mechanical mixture of about 25 per cent of the oil is about as effective as pure oil and much less injurious to foliage. Sometimes, however, in- jury results, and it is advisable to use the plain oU and water in winter, and the dilute kerosene emulsion in sum- mer. White Arsenic. — This is cheaper and of more uniform strength than Paris green. It may be used safely with Bordeaux mixture, or in connec- tion with soda or lime, but it cannot be safely used alone. Arsenite of Soda for Bordeaux Mix- ture. — Sal-soda crystals, 4 pounds ; water, 1 gallon. Mix and dissolve. Add 1 pound of white arsenic and boil until dissolved. Add water to replace what has boiled away so as to leave 1 gallon of arsenite of soda. This is stock solu- tion. Use 1 pint of this stock solution with 50 gallons of Bordeaux mixture. Arsenite of Lime. — ^White arsenite if used alone may be prepared as fol- dows; sal-soda crystals, 1 pound; water, 1 gallon. Mix and dissolve. White arsenic, 1 pound. Add this and boil until dissolved. Fresh slaked lime, 2 pounds. Add this and boil 20 minutes. Add 2 gallons of water to make stock solution. Use 1 quart of this stock solution to 50 gallons of water. Arsenite of Lead or Disperene. — This preparation is very useful against beetles and similar insects, which are hard to poison. It can be applied in large quantities without harm to foli- age, and adheres to the foliage a long time. This has been used almost ex- clusively by the Gypsy Moth Commis- sion of Massachusetts, and is strongly recommended by them. It forms a whitish coating on foliage, so it is easy to see whether or not the ar- HOUSEHOLD AND GARDEN PESTS 331 senite has been sprayed and when it has been washed off by rain. For the potato bug it has been found a more effective insecticide than Paris green. It costs more than Paris green, but remains suspended longer in the wa- ter, and hence can be applied more evenly and goes farther. The for- mula is: arsenite of lead, 1 to 3 pounds; water, 50 gallons. It is ready for use as soon as the paste is mixed with the water. Hellebore. — This poison is not so strong as Paris green and other ar- senites, and loses its strength after being exposed to the air, hence it can be used to spray fruit a short time before ripening. It is in common use on currants, gooseberries, and other small fruits. It may be applied either dry or mixed with water. For a solu- tion use fresh white hellebore, 1 ounce; water, 3 gallons. Apply when thoroughly mixed. This is for insects which chew, as turnip worms, goose- berry worms, currant worms, and saw- flies. Lime, Sulphur, and Salt Wash. — This mixture is commonly used on the Pacific Coast against the San Josd scale. The formula is: lime, 15 pounds; sulphur, 25 pounds; salt, 16 pounds. Water, sufficient to make 50 gallons after boiling. This wash maiy be boiled in an iron kettle. Heat the water before adding the lime and sulphur. The sulphur must be thoroughly dissolved. Pour the mixture through a strainer into the sprayer. The best results are obtained by applying this wash while warm. It must be applied only in the winter while the tree is dormant. This is used against the San Josd scale, apple and pear scab, and leaf curl. Oregon Wash.-^Saiae as lime, sul- phur, and salt wash, but substitute blue vitriol for salt. Use in the same manner for the same purposes. CHAPTER XII THE FAMILY WORKROOM Part One — Adhesives ADHESIVES-PASTES— MUCILAGE— GLUE— CEMENT— SPECIAL ADHESIVES The famUy workshop is in several respects one of the most important rooms in the house. From the stand- point of economy a reasonable invest- ment in the equipment of such a room will, in the long run, pay for itself many times over. A good equipment includes a convenient work- bench, good tools, and a supply of "A Convenient Workiench." nails, screws, and other hardware; utensils, and materials for soldering and tinkering of all sorts; various adhesives; paint and varnish; appli- ances for simple metal working, woodworking, and working in leather, and many other incidentals too nu- merous to mention. A good rule in furnishing the workroom is to buy, in the first instance, only a limited num- ber of the most necessary articles, and to purchase others as needed; but in purchasing to make sure that each article is the best of its kind. A few good tools, well cared for, will be found much more serviceable than a large number of inferior imple- ments that are constantly getting out of order. Only those who are obliged to live in restricted quarters, as per- sons who are boarding or living in city "flats," realize the total saving resulting from the numerous small economies that can be practiced in a well-equipped workroom. On the other hand, those who occupy larger houses have more needs of this sort. And to farmers and others who live in partly settled rural neighborhoods some equipment of this kind is indis- pensable. Order in the Workroom. — From the standpoint of convenience, and time saving, much depends upon the condition in which the various con- veniences of a workroom are kept. It is too often the case that nobody knows where to find the hanuner or the screw-driver, and it is necessary to search various parts of th6 house to find out whether or not there is a supply of nails or screws available for a certain use. Sometimes this is due to the lack of a suitable place for a. convenient and well-equipped workroom, but more often such waste of time in useless running to and fro is due to thoughtlessness and failure THE FAMILY WORKROOM 333 to appreciate the value of order and time. Educational Value of Kanual Work. — From tlie educational view- point tiie worlsroom is (or ought to be) next in importance to the library. And in the earlier years of childhood it is probably of superior importance. Every boy and girl should have man- ual training in all the domestic arts. To know how a thing can be, or should be, done is of very little value in comparison with the acquisition of skill and ability to do It and do it properly. Many persons nowadays — when it is customary to send for the carpenter or the plumber, or to take articles to be repaired to the cabinet- maker or the harness maker or the iron worker — are wont to say that they could do these things for them- selves if they had a. mind to, but that it is cheaper and easier to have them done by others, and that they have therefore no need to acquire the nec- essary skill. Aside from the question of economy that is involved, this is a very shortsighted view to take of the matter. It is impossible to use the fingers without at the same time using the brain. And it is also im- possible to use for any other purpose those parts of the brain that govern the use of the fingers. Hence, if the fingers are not used in a great vari- ety of ways, certain parts of the brain are not properly developed and the mind is limited and restricted in certain important ways in its devel- opment. The Good Old Days. — It has been pointed out that the American farm- er of the past generation carried on in the neighborhood of sixty to sev- enty different processes on the farm that in modern times have given rise to as many different arts or trades. The pioneer farmer had necessarily to be his own blacksmith, iron work- er, carriage ironer, wheelwright, car- riage painter, carpenter, cabinet- maker, harness maker, bootmaker, shoemaker, and so on — just as his wife had to be her own spinner, weaver, dyer, dressmaker, tailor, soap maker, and the like. In those days there were no artisans in the vicinity of the pioneer farmhouse. No one could be called in, nor could the work be sent out to be done by oth- ers. Hence so many necessary tasks accumulated that the boys and girls of the family were obliged at a very early age to master a large number of domestic arts and processes. The natural desire felt by all children to equal or exceed their models resulted in the acquisition of considerable skill, which was thus transmitted from father to son, and from mother to daughter, through generations. Modern Conditions. — ^The invention of modern labor-saving devices, and the resulting division of labor and of the arts and crafts into many differ- ent branches, has, to a large extent, taken these processes out of the or- dinary home. Even in rural districts the increase in population and the improved means of transportation have produced the same change. Thus it is the exception rather than the rule for a farmer to mend his own harness or to half-sole his own boots, to make repairs on his prem- ises, to paint and varnish — or in some cases even to whitewash. All these different tasks are let out to persons who do them by the day or hour at prices that would formerly have been prohibitory. The argument that the farmer himself makes more money than he did formerly, that his time is therefore more valuable, and that it is cheaper for him to have work done by others than to do it himself, is sometimes put forth as though it were unanswerable. Whether or not it is cheaper in dollars and cents to neglect the family workroom and hire everything done, the saving of money will be dearly won if it re- sults in the making of cheap men. And the most thoughtful students of present-day conditions fear that this is the present tendency. 'The minds of children are turned over to the common schools, their morals to the Sunday schools, and their hands and fingers are neglected altogether ex- 334 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES cept for what they learn in play. This is a convenient arrangement, and obviously at the moment saves time and trouble for the parents; but it offers little assurance of the devel- opment of a sort of manhood and womanhood in the children that will not in time to come be a. source of much more serious trouble. Give the Children a Chance. — The tendency to simplify farm work by hiring everything done that can be done instead of doing the work at home, and to simplify housework by the purchase of patent washing and cleaning preparations, the employ- ment of laundresses, dressmakers, and the like, should be resisted by all intelligent persons on account of the educational benefit to the children of doing such work in the home. The example is something in itself, but it is even more important to give the children an opportunity to lend a hand in the actual work, and to ac- quire the skill and ability to perform the necessary household processes for themselves. Farm work and house- work are regarded more and more in the light of drudgery in proportion as they become simplified, since sim- plicity leads to routine and monot- ony. To diversify the work of the house and of the farm is the first step in the direction of increasing its educational benefits to the rising generation, and this diversity can and should be brought to a focus in the family workshop. Equipment of the Workroom. — Hence set apart, if possible, a clean, tight, and dry wood shed or other outhouse, a part of the attic, or some room of the house that will not be required for other purposes, or a well-lighted corner of the cellar if it is dry, well ventilated, and has a ce- ment or other hard, tight bottom. Purchase, if possible, a good car- penter's bench with a wood vise and also an iron vise and other conveni- ences. Or, better still, visit a cabi- netmaker's or carpenter's shop in the vicinity and obtain permission to make a sketcli, with measm-ements, of his workbench. Purchase the neces- sary lumber and build a similar bench for yourself. If you buy a chest of tools, be sure to purchase good ones. It is much better to buy a small collection of first quality than a large number of inferior make. Or buy a hammer, saw, brace and bits, screw-driver, and such other common tools as are abso- lutely necessary — each of the best quality that can be obtained — and add to these from time to time as special work is to be done that you know, if done by others and paid for, would cost more than the tools neces- sary to do it for yourself. Thus in time a collection will be made of really valuable tools that with proper care will never need to be replaced. Arrangement and Care of Tools. — It is quite customary to buy tools in a chest or cabinet or to make such a receptacle in which to store them. But it is more convenient, if the workshop is dry and its contents are not likely to be distributed, to ar- range the tools on the wall behind the workbench on a series of nails or hooks so adjusted that each article ■will be most convenient to the hand. Then paint the outlines of the va- rious tools on the surface of the wall. Thus it is obvious at a glance just where each tool belongs, and whether or not the one desired is in its place. Tools that are not in frequent use can be protected from rust by a coating of collodion dissolved in ether or alcohol. This can be kept at hand in a small, tightly corked vial. Or other substances can be used that are recommended elsewhere in this volume. Saws and other tools having cutting edges that are used more frequently can be rubbed with a few drops of machine oil before being returned to their places, as this is not likely to evaporate before they are next used. The mere presence of a carpenter's bench and necessary tools will sug- gest the advisability of building clos- ets and cupboards containing drawers, racks, trays, and other conveniences THE FAMILY WORKROOM 335 in which to keep hardware, adhe- sives, paint and varnish, and the miscellaneous implements and mate- rials required for all sorts of house- hold use. Dry articles can be kept In empty- boxes that have contained oatmeal or other cereals; nails and screws and the like, in empty baking-powder or other tins. A collection of pint, quart, and two-quart glass fruit jars, with patent stoppers and tight rub- ber rings to prevent evaporation, will be found most convenient receptacles for paints, varnishes, and other liq- uids. All such receptacles can be labeled and arranged in orderly fash- ion. Thus habits of neatness, order, and system can be instilled in the minds of children, and the peace and happiness of the household be spared from the annoyance of unnecessary search for this or that. Various TJtensils. — In addition to a good workbench, a, number of spe- cial utensils are so necessary in va- rious ways to the average family that they should always find a, place in the family workshop. Among these are vises (including two bench vises — one for wood, the other for metal) ; also a small hand vise, a good solder- ing iron with solder and soldering liquid; a good-sized iron gluepot made in two parts after the fashion of the double boiler; a small paint mill; a good-sized earthen or porce- lain mortar and pestle; suitable weights and measures; a grindstone or emery wheel, whetstone, and oil- stone for sharpening tools; and — if it can be afforded — foot or power lathes for turning and working both wood and metal. Of course the ex- pense of stocking a workshop in the first instance with all these appliances would be considerable. But it should be borne in mind that they are all likely to be needed frequently, that if purchased of the best quality and given good care they will last a life- time, and that if used as often as they should be in the ordinary house- hold they will pay for themselves many times over. In addition to the above, a small portable forge or furnace with bel- lows, a small alcohol lamp with blow- pipe, and one or more crucibles in which to melt metals and other sub- stances, will be found exceedingly convenient. This list might, of course, be indefinitely extended to in- clude chemical apparatus, electric batteries, and other devices for elec- troplating and the like, but these are special interests, and cannot be re- garded equally as necessary in the average household as those above mentioned. Nails. — Among uncivilized tribes, the earliest nails were doubtless the thorns of the locust, or other trees, which sometimes reach the length of 6 or 8 inches, and become nearly as hard as iron. The use of fish bones was also common. Later, wooden pins were employed, being driven through holes burned by hot irons. The first iron nails were hand-forged with ham- mer and anvil. But nails are now made by machinery in great variety and enormous numbers. Kinds of Nails. — Fifty years ago there were upwards of 3,000 different kinds of nails, all under different names perfectly understood by per- sons manufacturing and using them. The United States Government now classifies nails as cut, wrought, horse- shoe, shoe, barbed, composition, but- ton, carpet, coffin, sheathing, gal- vanized, harness, leather-work, pic- ture, siding, slating, trunk, upholstery, weather-tiling, and screw. Of these, the cut, wrought, and horseshoe nails are by far the most important. The trade commonly recognizes common, fence, sheeting, casing, box, flooring, finishing, fine finishing, light barrel, lining, roofing, shingle, slating, clinch, boat, cooper, tobacco, zinc, copper, tinned, and galvanized nails, and nu- merous brands of brads, tacks, and spikes. Sizes of Nails. — Nails are known by the trade as two penny, three penny, and so on, the letter " d." being used as an abbreviation. The standard of measurement is supposed to be tl(e 336 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES weight of 1,000 nails, that is to say 1,000 six penny nails will weigh 6 pounds. One thousand ten penny nails, 10 pounds, and so on. But these figures are only approximate, and vary considerably. The best authori- ties recognize as standard for " com- mon cut nails " 978 six pennies in 6 pounds, 754 eight pennies in 8 pounds, and in " finishing nails " the number is much larger, amounting to 1,176 six pennies in 6 pounds. Hence many carpenters and others who use naUs in large quantities, order them by the keg of wholesale dealers, and specify the length and quality wanted. The accepted lengths of standard steel-cut nails are as follows: two penny, 1 inch; three penny, IJ inches; four penny, IJ inches; five penny, Ij inches; six penny, 3 inches; seven penny, 3i inches; eight penny, 2 J inches; nine penny, 2i inches; ten penny, 3 inches; twelve penny, SJ inches; sixteen penny, 3 J inches; twenty penny, 4 inches; thirty penny, 4J inches; forty penny, 5 inches; fifty penny, SJ inches; sixty penny, 6 inches. Machine-made nails are very much cheaper than formerly, selling ordi- narily at about 4 cents a pound re- tail, or Si cents wholesale in quan- tities of 100 poimds. Driving Nails undoubtedly has a distinct educational value. It brings into play certain muscles and thus develops a corresponding section of the brain. There is no more useful occupation for a boy than to give him plenty of nails, a hammer, saw, and a quantity of lumber and let him amuse himself by building to his heart's content. Mixed Nails. — Many retail hard- ware dealers in towns and cities put up for sale S- or 10-pound boxes of mixed nails in assorted sizes suitable for family use. Or any dealer in nails will fill such an order. A box containing an assortment of naUs of all sizes will be found exceedingly useful. Or a tray with compart- ments ranging in size from 2 to 4 ^ches square and 1^ or 3 inches deep, each containing a different size of nails, will be found even more con- venient. Driving and Drawing Nails. — A nail can be driven more readily, es- pecially into hard wood, if it is first oiled or run through a. piece of soft yeUow soap. A rusty naU may be drawn more readily if it is started by a blow of the hammer to loosen the rust. Or hold a red-hot iron on the head of the nail to expand it and draw at once. As it begins to cool, it will draw out readily. .Screws. — Screws can be driven more easily if oiled, soaped, or even thoroughly wet in the mouth with saliva. If the wood is soft, dip the screw in liquid glue. This wUl make it hold better. Or first make h, gim- let, hole, somewhat smaller than the screw, fill it with powdered rosin, and heat the screw before driving it. To remove a rusted screw, apply a hot iron to the head before using the screw-driver. To loosen the screw of a nut, pour a little kerosene oil over it and wait until it has had time to soak in. Jar the nut slightly with a hammer to loosen the rust. Saws. — Saws are of many kinds, but for ordinary use, two or three will be found sufficient. These are the crosscut saw, the rip saw, and the keyhole saw. The teeth of the crosscut saw are finer and set more closely together, giving the sawdust a fine granular appearance. The teeth of the rip saw are larger and set wider apart. The keyhole saw is small and pointed, so that it can be inserted in small openings and the like. The labor of sawing will be much lightened by using a saw adapted to the work in hand, and by oiling or greasing the saw blade oc- casionally, especially if the wood is wet or gimimy. To Recut Files Chemically. — Dis- solve 8 ounces of soda in 2 quarts of water, immerse the files in this, and boil IS minutes to clean them. Rinse with cold water, pour over them in an earthen vessej a solution THE FAMILY WORKROOM 337 of 1 pint of sulphuric acid in 4 quarts of water, and let stand over night. Remove them, wash with hot water, and oil them to prevent rust. The acid water may be bottled and used again. Sandpaper. — To make sandpaper, grind in an iron mortar a quantity of broken window glass and sift it through a coarse or fine sieve, accord- ing to the quality of sandpaper re- quired, on a piece of cartridge or other tough, smooth paper, previous- ly coated with glue. Cut the paper to convenient size, tack it on a board, and apply by means of a brush thin hot glue of about the consistency of mucilage in such a. way as to leave a half inch margin all around. Let stand imtil the glue is stiff and apply the glass. Shake off and save the surplus of glass, which may be used again. Care must be taken not to breathe the flying fragments of glass, as they are very poisonous. ADHESIYES Adhesives. — Adhesives are a class of substances capable of attaching themselves to the surface of solid bod- ies, and thus, when interposed between them, of uniting such bodies. Vari- ous substances and compounds have adhesive or sticky properties. Among these are the gums arable, tragacanth, and Senegal; dextrin, gelatin or glue, isinglass or fish glue; various resins, as shellac, rosin, etc.; casein, from the curd of milk and cheese; India rubber, gutta percha, litharge, and other substances too numerous to men- tion. Various preparations of these sub- stances may be loosely classed accord- ing to their composition in the order of their adhesive power, as paste, mu- cilage, glue (either solid or liquid), and cement. But these terms hardly have a definite meaning, and are often used Interchangeably. Some knowledge of the origin and properties of the different substances used in adhesive compounds will be of much assistance in preparing and using them. Dextrin. — A substance formed from starch, rice flour, or cornstarch, also known as British gum or starch gum. Jt is used as a substitute for gum arable, as a size for mucilage, and especially for the backs of postage stamps and sealing envelopes. Gluten. — A substance believed to be produced by the action of a ferment. It is formed in flour by uniting or mixing it with cold water. Gluten is the substance which retains the car- bonic-acid gas in bread making, and thus assists in the process of raising bread. Gelatin. — Gelatin is produced from certain animal membranes by the ac- tion of hot water. Isinglass, calf's- foot jelly, and glue are chiefly com- posed of gelatin. It absorbs water, which causes it to swell, and may be dissolved in hot water or acetic and other acids. The addition of alcohol, corrosive sublimate, or tannic acid to a solution of gelatin in water causes the gelatin to be thrown down. Glue. — The glue of commerce is dry gelatin having a more or less brown- ish color according to its purity. White or pale glue is the best. It is a hai-d, brittle, glossy substance which usually comes in thin sheets. Glue is obtained by cleansing scraps of hides, hoofs, and horns with lime, and boil- ing them until changed into gelatin. Glue can also be made from bones, but this is of inferior quality. Pre- pared or liquid glue is ordinary glue dissolved in water with the addition of acids that have the power to dis- solve glue without heat and hold it in a state of solution. Isinglass. — ^Dry gelatin is prepared from the air bladder of sturgeon and other fish, such as cod, weakfish, hake, etc. It is used ip preparing jellies, blancmange, gum drops, etc.; in mak- ing court-plaster, as a size for deli- cate fabrics, and as an adhesive. Fish Glue is an Inferior isinglass made from the offal of fisheries. To melt Isinglass, beat up i tea- spoonful of white of egg in 1 pint of water. Add 4 ounces of isinglass, and melt over a slow fire. 338 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES To detect adulteration by gelatin, drop a sample of the suspected isin- glass into vinegar. Pure isinglass will swell like jelly, while gelatin will be- come hard. Or put a sample in cold water. Pure isinglass becomes cloudy and white, and the adulteration becomes jellylike and clear. Kesins. — For the various resins hav- ing adhesive qualities including rosin, shellac, and the like, see under " Var- nish." Gutta Percha. — The hardened milky juice of a large tree growing in the East Indies. It is insoluble in water, slightly soluble in alcohol and ether, and readily dissolved in bisulphide of carbon, benzol, chloroform, and oil of turpentine. It deteriorates rapidly when exposed to the air, and becomes brittle and useless. It is chiefly used for coating submarine telegraph wires and other metallic articles under water. Caoutchouc, gum elastic, or India rubber is the juice or sap of several tropical plants growing in the East Indies and South America. It is ob- tained by cutting the bark and drying the juice over smoky fires, which im- part its black color. It is elastic and waterproof. When combined with about 25 per cent of sulphur and raised to a temperature of about 270° F., it is converted into soft vulcanized rubber; by the addition of SO per cent of sulphur and heating to 300° F., it becomes hard vulcanized rubber or ebonite. To Choose Adhesives. — An adhesive should be selected according to the nature of the substances to be united and the use to which they are to be put. If the right cement is employed, the hardest and smoothest surfaces, as glass and polished metals, may be united so firmly that they will break anywhere rather than where the parts are cemented. To Use Adhesives. — The object of using adhesives is to bring two sur- faces into such intimate contact as to make them practically one, and not to interpose between them any perishable layer or thickness of the adhesive it- self. Most adhesives are more brit- tle than the substances which they unite; hence the best work is done when the adhesive penetrates into the pores of the materials on both sides and brings the particles of both sur- faces closely together, so that the strength of the materials themselves is added to that of the adhesive in a union which may be stronger than the adjacent parts. The presence of any foreign sub- stance, as dirt, grease, or bubbles of air, hinders adhesion. Heating the surfaces to be joined promotes it by expanding the pores and thus enabling them to absorb more of the adhesive. Heating the adhesive itself also as- sists. Moreover, heat tends to drive away the air. Hence the hotter one can handle the parts and the adhesive the closer they can be brought into con- tact and the less adhesive will be re- quired. To Use Glue. — To get the best re- sults from glue, it should be thin and hot, and the parts should be at least warm enough to prevent the glue from being chilled by them. As glue is gummy and elastic, the parts, when possible, should be squeezed together by means of a vise or under clamps tightened by a screw, so as to squeeze out the excess of glue and bring the parts into intimate contact. The arti- cles should be left in the vise until the glue is set. To Use Cement. — Resinous cements which are used in a melted state will not do good work unless the adjacent parts are heated above the point at which the resins melt. PASTES riour Paste. — Ordinary paste Is made by mixing wheat flour or rice flour with water, with or without boU- ing. It may be improved by the ad- dition of various other adhesives, as rosin, gum arable, and glue, and also by the addition of alum. To make simple cold flour paste. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 339 mix 1 tablespoonful of flour with 1 teacupful of cold water. Add a few drops of carbolic acid or other pre- servative. Or, for library paste, dissolve i ounce of alum in 1 pint of warm water. Stir in flour to the consistency of cream, carefully breaking all lumps. Add 1 teaspoonful of powdered resin and 5 or 6 cloves, or a few drops of oil of cloves, and boil until it thick- ens. Thin, if necessary, with a, little hot water. Put in an earthen or glass vessel, as a glass fruit jar tightly cov- ered, and keep in a cool place. Soften when needed with warm water. This paste is suitable for scrapbooks and similar articles, and is better for such uses than a paste or mucilage contain- ing gum arable. To soften library paste, add a few drops of water and melt the paste with gentle heat. Or to 1 heaping teaspoonful of flour add i teaspoonful of pulverized alum. Rub smooth with a little cold water. Mix with boiling water to the consistency of cream and boil until it thickens. To Preserve Tlour Paste. — ^Add to each half pint of flour paste not con- taining alum IS grains of corrosive sublimate. This prevents the forma- tion of mold and preserves the paste from the attacks of insects and ver- min. Add also a few drops of oil of lavender, rosemary, or cloves, or any of the essential oils, and a few drops of carbolic acid. Paper Hanger's Paste. — Mix 4 pounds of flour, J pound of powdered alum, and J pound of pulverized rosin. Rub up this mixture with a small quantity of warm water until smooth and free from lumps. Mix with boil- ing water to the consistency of cream and boil until it thickens. Or use cornstarch or wheat starch or rice flour instead of wheat flour. To use this paste, spread it freely on the paper, then lay or fold the pasted sides lightly together. This assists in distributing the paste evenly and also in handling the paper. Af- ter the upper end has been attached. the lower part may be unfolded as it goes on the wall. The wall should first be coated with a thin glue size made of about 4 ounces of glue to 1 gallon of water. Or make a glue size by dissolving 10 ounces of glue in 3J gallons of water. Mix 9 pounds of bole, an earthy sub- stance resembling clay, with water to the consistency of cream, and strain off the water through cheese cloth. Add the moistened bole to the glue size and stir in 3 poimds of gypsum. Strain through cheese cloth and dilute with boiling water. This is an ex- cellent paste for old walls covered with one or more coatings of white- wash. Rice Paste or Japanese Cement. — Mix powdered rice with a little cold water, rubbing it until smooth and free from lumps. Add boiling water and boil, stirring constantly, until ij: thickens. This is an excellent library paste, suitable for scrapbooks and all kinds of fancy paper work. Or it may be used to paste strips of transparent paper used to mend tears in valuable books, as it is nearly transparent when dry. For all fine paper work, ■ it is much superior to paste made of wheat flour. Flour Cement. — A paste of wheat flour and cold water worked with the fingers into a stiff dough is a useful cement for attaching the metal tops to glass articles and other similar pur- poses. It requires two or three days to harden. Plour Paste with Sugar. — The ad- dition of 1 tablespoonful of sugar to 1 quart of flour paste increases its adhesiveness and tenacious quality. MTTCIIAGE Gum arable and similar substances, as gum tragacanth, Senegal, and the like, are readily soluble in water, and hence form the base of the liquid ad- hesives known as mucilage. Gum-arabic Paste. — Dissolve 2J ounces of gum acacia in 3 quarts of warm water. Stir in 1 pound of wheat flour to form a paste. Add IJ ounces 340 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES of sugar of lead and IJ ounces of alum dissolved in water. Stir and bring to a boil with gentle heat. Re- move the mixture from the fire, but before it boils, and cool for use. Thin, if necessary, with a solution of gum arable in water. Or dissolve 2 ounces of gum arable in 1 pint of water. Add i ounce of laundry starch and i ounce of white sugar mixed with a little cold water to a thick paste free from lumps, and boil in a double boiler until the starch becomes clear. Add a few cloves or a few drops of any essential oil as a preservative. Or mix 4 ounces of gum arable, 3 ounces of starch, and 1 ounce of sugar in a dry mortar. Add cold water to make a paste as thick as melted glue. Bottle for use. Or dissolve 1 ounce of gum arable in 2 ounces of water and thicken to a paste with starch. Gum-arabic Cement. — Dissolve J ounce of gum arable in 3 tablespoon- fuls of boiling water. Add plaster of Paris to make a thick paste. Ap- ply with a brush to the broken edges of glass, china, and earthenware. Press or tie together, and let stand two or three days. The article can- not be broken again at the same place. The whiteness of this cement adds to its value. Or dissolve 8 ounces of gum arable to a thick mucilage with water, add 12 ounces of plaster of Paris and 2J ounces of sifted lime. Mix well. Use to cement broken marble. Heat the cement and also the edges of the mar- ble, and apply with a. brush. Gum arable is also mixed with plas- ter of Paris and other substances to form pastes and cements. Uucilage. — To make mucilage, put 3 ounces of gum arable in a glass bot- tle with i pint of cold water. Let stand 24 hours and stir occasionally. Add a few whole cloves or a few drops of any of the essential oils to prevent molding. Or mix IJ ounces of gum ara- ble and IJ ounces of gum tragacanth. Add J pint of water and dissolve. The solution may be made much more quickly by the use of gentle heat by means of a double boiler or other- wise. Or mix 3 ounces of gum arable or gum tragacanth, 3 ounces of distilled vinegar, and 1 ounce of white sugar. Or 6 ounces of gum arable, 1 ounce of acetic acid, 1 ounce of white sugar, and 5 ounces of water. Botanical Ilucilage. — Mix 5 ounces of gum arable, 3 oimces of sugar, 2 ounces of starch, and 5 ounces of water. Boil and stir until very thick and white. Thin with hot water if necessary. Use for mounting pressed flowers and other botanical specimens. Ivory Mucilage. — Mix 2 ounces of pulverized gum arable and 1 ounce of calomel. Add water to make a thin paste. Use for gluing on ivory veneers, piano keys, and the like. Laljel Hucilage. — Mix J ounce of gum arable, 10 grains of sulphate of aluminum, and S ounces of water. This will attach labels to wood, tin, or metal, and will not become moldy. Before attaching the label, free tin or metal surfaces from grease by washing them with a dilute solution of caustic soda or potash by means of a rag or brush. Or dissolve 2^ ounces of glue in 10 ounces of water. Add 5 ounces of rock candy and IJ ounces of gum arable. Brush this upon paper while lukewarm and allow it to dry. It keeps well without sticking, and when moistened will adhere firmly to clean glass or tin. Dextrin Hucilage. — Dextrin and gelatin or glue treated with glycerin are also used to make mucilage. Dissolve dextrin in hot water to the consistency of cream or honey. Add a few drops of any of the es- sential oils or alcohol as a preven- tive. Dextrin mucilage is used on the backs of labels, envelopes, postage stamps, etc. To make the kind of mucilage used on the United States postage stamps, dissolve 2 ounces of dextrin in 5 ounces of water. Add 1 ounce of acetic acid, and when the THE FAMILY WORKROOM 341 dextrin is dissolved, add 1 ounce of alcohol as a preservative. Or use gelatin in place of dextrin in the above. To Preserve Mucilage. — Mucilage composed of gum arable and dextrin Is liable to become moldy and to de- cay. It may be preserved by the ad- dition of alcohol or a few drops of any of the essential oils, as oil of cloves, lavender, etc.; or a few whole cloves, or a few drops of sulphuric acid, or carbolic acid or creosote in such quantity that the odor is just apparent; or corrosive sublimate, salicylic acid, or boracic acid. If the use of these is objection- able, the addition of 10 or 12 grains of sulphate of quinine to i pint of mucUage is a good and safe preserv- ative. Ordinary quinine pills dis- solved in hot water may be used for this purpose. GLUE Liquid Glue. — ^Prepared or liqxiid glue is a solution of glue with water kept liquid by the addition of 1 fluid ounce of strong nitric acid to 1 pound of dry glue. Or add 3 ounces of commercial acetic acid to 1 ounce of glue. Or mix 2 ounces of glue, 3 ounces of vinegar, and 2 ounces of water; dissolve in a double boiler and add 1 oimce of alcohol. Or dissolve i pound of the best pale glue in IJ pints of water and add i pint of vinegar. Or put any quantity of the best glue broken in small pieces in a glass fruit jar and cover with 1 part of vinegar or dilute acetic acid and 5 parts of water. Set the jar in a ves- sel of hot water, and let stand until the glue is melted. In aU these cases the glue will dissolve more rapidly if allowed to stand a few days in cold water, which may be poured off when the glue is wanted. Or dissolve in a double boiler 8 ounces of the best pale glue in J pint of water. Add slowly, stirring con- stantly, i ounce of pure nitric acid. Bottle and cork for use. This can be used cold for all ordinary pur- poses, and does not thicken, decay, or become moldy, but is not water- proof. This recipe has often been sold as a trade secret. Other proportions recommended are equal parts by weight of glue and -water and ^^ their combined weight of nitric acid; e. g., melt 10 ounces of glue in 10 ounces of water and add 2 ounces of nitric acid. Or dissolve 10 ounces of glue in 20 ounces of water and add 1 ounce of nitric acid. Any of these is a pow- erful adhesive which is always ready for use. Or dissolve 6 ounces of glue in 16 ounces of water and add 1 ounce of hydrochloric acid and IJ ounces of sulphate of zinc. This is a perma- nent liquid glue which will not spoil under ordinary household conditions. Or mix 1 ounce of clear gelatin, 1 ounce of glue, J ounce of alcohol, and 1 tablespoonful of powdered alum. Add 2 ounces of commercial acetic acid. Melt in a double boiler. Bot- tle and cork for use. Flexible Glue. — The addition to any of the above liquid glues of one fourth by weight of glycerin in pro- portion to the amount of glue em- ployed, imparts a flexible quality which prevents the glue from crack- ing and is useful for all flexible sur- faces, as leather, paper, bookbinding, and the like. Photograph Glue. — Mix 3 ounces of chloral hydrate and 4i ounces of gelatin and dissolve in 13 ounces of water. Let stand 2 or 3 days. Use for mounting photographs. Waterproof Glue. — ^Dissolve in a double boiler J pound of best white glue in 1 quart of skimmed mUk. Stir occasionally until the mixture has the consistency of glue. Apply with a brush. This hardens to a durable waterproof cement. The ad- dition of a few drops of nitric acid converts this mixture into liquid glue or mucilage. Portable Glue. — ^Melt in a double boiler 5 ounces of glue and 2 ounces 342 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES of sugar with 8 ounces of water. Pour into small molds to dry. Dis- solve when required in warm water. Or dissolve J pound of best white glue in hot water, and strain through cheese cloth. Dissolve 2 ounces of best isinglass in water to the consist- ency of cream. Mix the two solu- tions in a glass vessel. Add 1 pound of pure brown sugar, put the ves- sel in boiling water, boil, and stir until it thickens. Pour off into small molds to harden. When cold this cement is solid and portable. When required for use it may be softened by holding it over steam fbr a moment, or wetting it with the tongue and rubbing it on the surfaces to be cemented. It is used for cementing paper, leather, and many other ma- terials, and is doubly valuable on ac- count of its convenience, being always ready for use. Or mix 1 ounce of isinglass, 1 ounce of parchment, 3 drams of su- gar candy, and 3 drams of gum tragacanth. Add 1 ouAce of water and boil until dissolved. Pour into molds for use. This may be wet with the tongue or otherwise and rubbed on the edges of paper, silk, or leath- er to cement them. It is recom- mended for sealing letters. Isinglass Adhesives. — Pure isin- glass, which may be dissolved read- ily in water, is a very strong adhe- sive. Isinglass is an animal tissue ob- tained chiefly from the air bladders of certain fish. The substance used in place of glass in stove windows, sometimes improperly called isin- glass, is a. stone or mineral, the cor- rect name of which is mica. Dissolve isinglass in hot water, using a double boiler, and apply with a brush to glass, china, or marble. Or dissolve i ounce of isinglass in 1 or 3 ounces of alcohol and add a tablespoonful of water. Apply to the edges of broken glass or similar ar- ticles with gentle pressure, and the fracture will hardly be noticeable. Or isinglass may be dissolved in about its own weight of brandy, gin. alcohol, or other spirits. This solu- tion makes the best cement for glass and porcelain. Or mix 3 ounces of isinglass and 1 ounce of gum arabic, cover with 95 per cent alcohol, cork loosely, and put the bottle ia boUing water until dissolved. This is the best and most delicate cement. Used by opticians, jewelers, and others whose trades re- quire the finest workmanship. Spalding's Liquid Glue.-^Dissolve in a double boiler 1 pound of pure isinglass in 1 pint of soft water. Add slowly, stirring constantly, 3 ounces of nitric acid. This is a per- manent liquid glue, which is always ready for use and will not mold or putrefy. Bottle and cork to prevent evaporation. Used for wood, leath- er, paper, and, in the absence of special adhesives, for many other purposes. CEKENT Armenian or Diamond Cement. — Dissolve to the consistency of thin cream 6 lumps of gum mastic, each about the size of a large pea or about J dram each, in 3 drams of 95 per cent alcohol. Fill a 3-ounce vial loosely with isinglass broken in small pieces and cover with water. When the isinglass is slightly softened, pour off tlie water, cover with French brandy, and add two small lumps (10 grains) of gum ammoniacum powdered and dissolved in as little alcohol as possible. Mix the two solutions and dissolve with gentle heat in a double boiler. Keep in a glass bottle closely stoppered, and when required for use set the bottle in boiling water. This celebrated adhesive has been used from time immemorial by the jewelers of Turkey, who are mostly Armenians. The formula was brought to England by a former British con- sul, and this preparation has been widely used with uniformly good re- sults. It is employed in the Orient to ornament watch cases and other jewelry with diamonds and other THE FAMILY WORKROOM precious stones by simply gluing or cementing them on. The stone is set in silver or gold, the lower part of the setting being shaped to corre- spond with the part to which it is to be fixed. The parts are then warmed slightly, the glue is applied, and the parts thus cemented never separate. This cement will unite polished steel with other metals or with glass. It is suitable for the finest work, and may be regarded as absolutely relia- ble. So-called Armenian cement as commonly found on the market is an inferior preparation and is usually sold at an exorbitant price. Other proportions recommended for Armenian cement are as follows: isinglass, 1 ounce; acetic acid, 1 ounce; water, S ounces; alcohol, 3 ounces; gum ammoniacum, i oimce; gum mastic, 4 ounce. Mix and dis- solve with gentle heat. Or dissolve 1 ounce of isinglass in 6 ounces of water, and boil down to 3 ounces. Add IJ ounces of 95 per cent alcohol, boil two minutes, strain through silk, and add while hot J ounce of milky emulsion of ammoni- acum and S drams of tincture of gum mastic. Where instructions are carefully followed, this is a perfect cement. Resin Cement. — A class of cements having valuable waterproof qualities is made of the gums amber, mastic, rosin, shellac, etc., dissolved in spir- its or other solvents, and often com- bined for various purposes with oth- er adhesives or solids, as plaster of Paris, clay, iron filings, etc. Bees- wax is often combined with these resins to soften them and prevent excessive brittleness. Shellac Cement for China and Glass. — Sealing wax, the principal ingredient of which is shellac, or powdered shellac itself, may be used as a cement by dusting the edges of chinaware or other articles with it, heating them until the shellac runs, and pressing them firmly together. Failure to get good results by this method is due to lack of sufficient heat or the use of too much of the material. Or dissolve white shellac in alcohol to the consistency of mo- lasses, and apply to the edges of broken glassware or other glass sur- faces to be joined. This sets quickly without heat and will stand all ordi- nary wear except heat equal to boil- ing water. Or dissolve 3 ounces of white shel- lac and I ounce of gum mastic in 1 ounce of pure sulphuric ether. Let the mixture stand for an hour and add 1 pint of 95 per cent alcohol. Bottle and cork tightly for use. Shake well before using. Heat the articles to be mended, apply the ce- ment evenly with a soft brush, and hold the surface together until it sets. Or, for so-called Chinese cement, put 4 ounces of pale-orange shellac in a glass bottle and pour over it 3 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol, and let stand in a warm place until dis- solved. This will have the consist- ency of molasses. It is suitable for wood, glass, jewelry, ivory, and all fancy work. It is very strong. Shellac Cement for Iiabeling on Metal. — Dissolve 1 ounce of pulver- ized borax and S ounces of gum shel- lac in 1 quart of boiling water. Boll until dissolved. Before applying, wash the metal with a dilute solu- tion of caustic potash or soda and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Apply the cement warm. For inscriptions, size the metallic surface with this cement, and write the inscription with bronze powder by means of a brush. When dry, varnish over the bronze. Shellac Cement for Rubber. — Soak in a glass fruit jar 1 ounce of gum shellac in 10 ounces of strong aqua ammonia. Let stand 3 or 4 weeks, or until the shellac is dis- solved. Used to cement rubber to wood or metal. This cement softens the rubber, and after the ammonia evaporates, the union will be found to be both air-tight and water- tight. Bosin Cement. — Melt together with gentle heat 8 ounces of rosin and 4 344 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ounces of sulphur, and pour into molds for future use. When wanted, grind to powder 3 ounces of this mixture, and add J ounce of iron filings, fine sand, or brick dust. Fill the opening in the handle of a knife, fork, or other implement with this mixture, heat the stock, and force it into the handle while hot. Or mix 4 ounces of rosin, 1 ounce of beeswax, and 1 ounce of fine brick dust. This cement is used by cutlers. Fill the openings in knife handles with this mixture, heat the stock of the knife, and force it into the handle. When cold it will be firmly set. Or mix J pound of rosin and 1 pound of brick dust. Melt with gen- tle heat. Used by plumbers. Apply while hot to joints in lead pipe. Or melt together 5 ounces of black rosin and 1 ounce of yellow wax, and stir in gradually 1 ounce of red ocher or Venetian red in fine, dry powder. Melt and apply warm. Used by in- strument makers for cementing glass to metal. Or melt 15 ounces of rosin and 1 ounce of wax, and add 4 ounces of whiting previously heated red hot and mixed while warm. Used by glass grinders to hold glass, stones, etc., while being polished or cut. Kosin and Wax Cement or Bottle Wax. — Mix 4 ounces of rosin, 4 ounces of sealing wax, and 3 ounces of beeswax; melt together with gen- tle heat. When the mixture boils, stir it with a candle. Or melt equal quantities of bees- wax and rosin. Used to seal bottles. First insert a cork into the bottle, and then dip the cork and neck of the bottle in the melted wax. Grafting Wax. — Melt together with gentle heat 1 pound of rosin, 3 ounces of tallow, and 5 ounces of beeswax. Stir continually while melt- ing. Pour the mixture into cold wa- ter and let stand until cool. Then remove from the water and knead thoroughly to a homogeneous mass. This wax will last for years. It is not soft enough to run in hot weather not hard enough to crack in winter. Amber or Varnish Cement. — ^Dis- solve 2 ounces of amber in 3 ounces of sulphide of carbon. Apply with a brush and hold the surfaces firmly together until dry. This cement sets almost immediately. Whlte-of-egg Cement. — For crock- ery, white of egg mixed with pre- pared lime, or mixed with the same material (ground to powder) as the article to be mended, makes a firm and durable cement. Apply quickly to the edges and hold firmly to- gether until the mixture sets. Do not mix more than is required, as it hardens very quickly and cannot be melted. Or use for this purpose the white of an egg with plaster of Paris or prepared chalk or finely powdered oyster shells. Or pound the lime or other solid to a fine powder and sift it through cheese cloth. Apply white of egg freely to the broken surfaces. Dust on the powder and hold the edges together firmly until united. For glassware, grind a piece of flint glass to the finest powder, mix with white of egg, and apply. To Mend Ironware. — Make a thin paste of finely sifted lime with the white of an egg and thicken with iron filings. Apply to the broken edges and hold them firmly together until the cement sets. Casein Cement. — Grate 4 ounces of old cheese in i pint of milk. Let stand all day, stirring frequently. Stir in 4 ounces of unslaked lime reduced to fine powder and sifted through cheese cloth. Add the whites of 6 eggs and mix all thoroughly with an egg beater. This was long regarded as a trade secret in Eng- land for mending earthenware. Or add J pint of vinegar to i pint of milk. Separate the curd from the whey and mix the whey with the whites of 4 or 5 eggs by means of an egg beater. Stir in powdered and sifted quicklime to the consist- ency of a thick paste. This cement TkE FAMILY WORKROOM 345 is said to be fireproof and water- proof. Or dissolve casein in a cold satu- rated solution of borax. This is a substitute for gum arabic and dex- trin for envelopes, labels, and the like. Or, to mend earthenware, place the pieces together and tie them firmly as possible by means of a string. If one piece of a set is broken, two other pieces of the same set may be placed one on each side of the broken article to assist in keeping the pieces together, but care must be taken to first wind string thickly around the broken plate or dish so as to separate it slightly from the others and permit liquid to flow around it. Then put it in a boiler or kettle, cover with cold sweet skimmed milk, and let stand for an hour or more to get an even temperature. Bring to a boil with gentle heat and let boil ten or fif- teen minutes. Remove from the fire and let stand over night. Wash in warm water and let stand two or three days without using. The dish will be found to be as strong as new. Rubber Cement. — The ordinary rubber mending tissue is a conven- ient article for repairing cloth, and also for flexible rubber surfaces, as hot-water bottles and the like. Use this mending tissue for umbrellas, raincoats, and similar articles requir- ing a tight waterproof joint. Lay the mending tissue over the break or tear. Place on the other side a piece of the same fabric and press lightly with a hot iron. To mend a hot-water bottle, heat an artificial rubber band or a piece of pure rubber with hot iron, as a poker, until it becomes sticky, and lay it quickly over the hole or crack. Let dry before using. Rubber over- shoes can be mended in the same way. But hot-water bottles will keep longer and not require mending if emptied, dried, blown up, and corked tightly before they are put away. Or apply a patch of oiled silk by means of mending tissue and a hot iron, but do not use the iron hot enough to melt or injure the rubber. Or dissolve 1 ounce of gutta percha in i pound of chloroform. Wash the parts to be cemented with a dilute solution of caustic potash or soda. Cover each freely with this gutta- percha solution and let dry for half an hour. Then warm each surface in the flame of a candle and let dry under pressure. Or shave India rubber with a wet knife or shears to thin strings or shreds like yarn. Fill a glass fruit jar about one fourth full of these shreds and fill it up with high-grade benzine. Let stand, shaking occa- sionally, for four or five days or until completely dissolved. Thin with ben- zine, or add more rubber if neces.- sary to make the mixture of the con- sistency of molasses. Or dissolve India rubber in highly rectified spirits of turpentine. ^ Or dissolve 7 grains of India rub- ber in 1 ounce of chloroform, and add 3 drams of shellac varnish. The above are suitable for patch- ing boots and shoes, for cementing rubber and leather, and either of them to wood. Clean the parts to be cemented by washing with a dilute solution of caustic potash or soda, and apply two or three coats to each surface. Let dry imder pressure. Or melt together equal parts of gutta percha and pitch. Apply hot. Or melt together J pound of gutta percha, 2 ounces of India rubber, 1 ounce of pitch, i ounce of shellac, and 2 ounces of boiled linseed oil. Or heat 5 pounds of Venice tur- pentine, stir in 8 ounces of shellac and 2 ounces of India rubber cut to shreds, and stir over gentle heat un- til dissolved. When ' dissolved, add 10 ounces of liquid storax. Do not allow the mixture to boil or burn. Apply hot. The above are suitable for cement- ing metals, leather, rubber, or cloth, especially flexible surfaces. Or cut up 2 ounces of pure India rubber in 1 pound of bisulphate of 346 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES carbon. Shake tintil dissolved. Add benzoin until the mixture is of the consistency of thick cream. Apply to both surfaces, warm the parts, and let dry under pressure. This cement is used by shoemakers to put invisible patches on shoes, and is also suitable for mending har- nesses, splicing leather straps, and the like. To apply, shave the edges of the leather on a long bevel, lay over them a wet cloth, and press with a hot iron to take up any grease that may be present, but take care not to use an iron hot enough to burn or take the life out of the leather. Pour the cement on both surfaces quite thick- ly, and spread with a brush so as to fill the pores of the leather. Warm the parts over a flame for a few sec- onds until the cement becomes sticky, or " tacky," apply quickly, and ham- mer until firmly set. Keep the ce- ment tightly corked in a cool place. To fasten leather to iron or steel, spread over the metal a thin, hot solution of good glue, and soak the leather in a warm solution of gall- nuts before placing it on the metal. If fastened in this way the leather will tear before separating. SPECIAL ADHESIVES Marine Glue. — Dissolve 1 ounce of finely divided India rubber in 2J pounds of crude naphtha. Let stand 2 or 3 weeks and shake frequently. Add 6 pounds of shellac, melt with gentle heat, and stir until evenly dis- solved. Pour on a marble or stone slab to cool and break in pieces like glue for use. When required, melt with gentle heat, apply a thin coating to the edges to be joined, and press firmly together. This ce- ment is used in foundries, for calk- ing ships, joining blocks of marble and granite, j oining wood to iron, etc. It is suitable for all heavy rough work exposed to the air. Or dissolve in separate vessels by means of gentle heat 3 ounces of India rubber in rectified sulphuric ether free from alcohol. Mix the two solutions. When cool, bottle and cork tightly for use. This is suitable for fine work. Both of the above re- sist the action of hot and cold water, and of most acids and alkalies. Wood, leather, and other materials cemented by them will part almost anywhere except at the place mended. Thin this glue with ether and apply with a brush along the seams where leather is sewed, as the soles of shoes. This renders the seam air-tight and practically unbreakable. The last two cements are probably the strongest known. To prepare the above in large quantities dissolve 1 pound of India rubber in 5 gallons of cold naphtha, and add to this solution an equal weight of shellac. Melt with gentle heat and stir while melting until thoroughly dissolved. This is ex- tremely tenacious and is insoluble. Lead and Oil Adhesives. — Linseed oil boiled to a varnish with litharge, and white lead ground in linseed oil, with or without various preparations of glue or other ingredients, make a class of adhesives which have valu- able fireproof and waterproof quali- ties. Mix 4 ounces of linseed oil with 4 ounces of slaked lime, and boil until stringy. Pour into tin molds and let dry indoors or in the shade. This will dissolve when wanted like glue. It will withstand fire and water. Or boil 4 ounces of linseed oil with 4 ounces of litharge until the mix- ture is stringy, and add 8 ounces of melted glue of the consistency of mo- lasses. Use this cement for leaders, the joints of wooden cisterns or casks, and similar places. It requires 3 or 4 days to harden, but renders wooden vessels air-tight and water- tight. Or mix equal quantities by weight of linseed oil and litharge. Stir in porcelain clay or well-dried pipe clay to the consistency of stiff mortar. Thin, if desired, with oil or turpen- tine. Apply this substance to the outside of buildings. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 347 litharge Cements. — Mix 2 ounces of litharge, 1 ounce of unslaked lime, and 1 ounce of flint glass. Pulverize into fine powder, mix, and when re- quired make into a stiff paste with boiled linseed oil. Or pulverize brick or well-burnt clay to ix fine powder. Mix 1 pound of litharge with 13 pounds of pul- verized brick or clay, and add boiled linseed oil to make a stiff mortar. Dampen the surface to which this is to be applied and use as mor- tar. The above are suitable for cement- ing stone, wood, or iron, filling leaks, mending cracks, and other similar purposes. Or mix powdered litharge with glycerin to the consistency of putty. Used for fastening metal tops to glassware, mending holes in tinware, ironware, and the like. Or mix 3 ounces of red lead, 3 ounces of white lead, 3 ounces of man- ganese, 3 ounces of silicate of soda, and 1 ounce of litharge. Use this cement for holes or cracks in steam or water pipes. Or mix white lead ground in oil with powdered red lead to the con- sistency of putty. Or mix equal weights of red lead and white lead with boiled linseed oil to the consistency of putty. Ap- ply the cement to a washer of cloth or canvas and tighten up the joint. It dries like stone. This and the last are employed by engineers to make metallic joints. Or use white lead mixed with oil to mend broken china and glassware, and to fill cracks in roofs, cisterns, and the like. Plaster-of-Paris Cements. — There is a class of cements of which plaster of Paris or gypsum is the basis, in which the hardening is due to the union of the plaster with water, but they require the addition of various other ingredients to give them ad- hesive properties. For the use of gum arable with plaster of Paris, see above under " Gum Arabic." Or mix into a paste plaster of Paris and white of egg. Used for mending broken glass or china. Or substitute oyster shells burnt in a stove or open fire and pulverized to powder. Or melt 2 ounces of rosin and stir in 1 ounce of plaster of Paris. Or melt 1 ounce each of rosin and beeswax, and stir in 1 ounce of plas- ter of Paris. Or melt 8 ounces of rosin and 1 ounce of beeswax, and stir in 4 ounces of plaster of Paris. Apply these cements to alabaster, broken plaster casts, marble, porphyry, and similar materials. Or mix equal quantities of pulver- ized alum and plaster of Paris, and add sufficient water to make a thin paste. Or mix plaster of Paris with a saturated solution of alum, and bake in an iron vessel in an oven until dry. Pulverize this mixture to a fine pow- der, and when wanted mix to the con- sistency of paste with a solution of 1 ounce of alum in 13 ounces of water. This cement is suitable for attaching glass to metal. Or boil 3 ounces of rosin, 1 ounce of caustic soda, and 5 ounces of water. Stir in 4J ounces of plaster of Paris. This cement is especially recommend- ed for fitting the brass woric to kero- sene-oil lamps, as it is not affected by petroleum products. It is a poor con- ductor of heat. Or melt alum and use for the same purpose while melted. Kerosene does not penetrate this. Or mix 1 pint each (dry measure) of litharge, plaster of Paris, and fine, dry white sand, and J pint of finely powdered rosin. Make into a, stiff paste with boiled linseed oil and ap- ply within 13 hours after mixing. This cement hardens under water and may be used for tanks, aquaria, water tanks for animals, and all similar pur- poses, as it contains nothing which is injurious to animals. Allow this cement to set 3 or 4 hours before wetting it. Ironware Cements. — Mix 5 parts of powdered fire clay and 1 part of fine 348 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Iron filings with enough boiled linseed oil to make a paste. This is not suit- able for iron exposed to red heat, as a stove. Or mix equal quantities of sifted wood ashes, powdered fire clay, and common salt. Moisten to a paste with water and fill cracks in stoves and other ironware. Or use equal quantities of sifted wood ashes and common salt mixed to a paste with water, but without the clay. Let the mixture set before heat- ing. Or melt 2 ounces of sulphur in an iron pan, and stir in 1 ounce of fine black lead. Pour on a stone or an iron plate to cool. When cold, break in small pieces. An iron pot can be mended by soldering with this sub- stance, using a hot soldering iron. Or, to m^nd a small hole, insert a copper rivet or one of the brass brads used to fasten documents together, hammer smoothly on both sides, and cover with this cement. Or melt 5 ounces of brimstone, and stir in 2 ounces of black lead and 3 ounces of cast-iron filings. Apply to leaks in cast-iron tanks, cisterns, etc., by drying the leak, heating it by means of red-hot iron, and pouring the melted cement from a ladle over the leak. Or mix 4 ounces of barytes and 4 ounces of fine fire clay to a paste with soluble glass or a saturated solation of borax. Or mix equal quantities of clay and powdered glass with soluble glass or a saturated solution of borax, and apply with a brush to cracks in iron stoves or furnaces. Or mix 2 pounds of cast-iron filings with 1 ounce of sal ammoniac and J ounce of flowers of sulphur. Stir in enough water to form a paste. Mix this preparation in an iron vessel, as it becomes very hot from chemical ac- tion. Prepare when wanted and ap- ply immediately, as it soon sets very hard. Or mix 8 ounces of steel filings, IJ ounces of sal ammoniac, and 1 ounce of flowers of sulphur. Preserve this mixture in dry form until wanted. When required, add 1 ounce of it to 15 ounces of iron filings, and mix with water acidulated with sulphuric acid to form a paste. Apply this cement to the joints of iron pipe and for similar purposes. Clean surfaces to be cemented with nitric or strong sul- phuric acid. Use this cement for all iron and steel work. Or mix 10 ounces of powdered fire clay, 4 ounces of fresh iron filings free from rust, 2 ounces of peroxide of manganese, 1 ounce of sea salt, and 1 ounce of borax. Powder finely, mix to a paste with water, and apply im- mediately. Gradually bring the parts to a white heat. This cement is both fireproof and waterproof. Or mix equal quantities of sifted peroxide of manganese and powdered zinc white, and make into a thin paste with soluble glass. Apply immedi- ately. Or mix 5 ounces of fire clay, 3 ounces of manganese, and 3 ounces of silicate of soda with water to the con- sistency of putty. Used to mend holes in castings and for similar purposes. Or mix 10 ounces of clay, 3 ounces of manganese, 2 ounces of silicate of soda, and J ounce of asbestos. Grind to powder in a mortar, mix with water to make a. paste, and use as mortar for lining stoves. Compound Glues. — The number of pastes, glues, and cements that can be compounded by mixing various pro- portions of the above substances is, of course, numberless, but the follow- ing preparations are especially recom- mended as having given satisfaction: For liquid glue, dissolve in a double boiler 8 ounces of white glue and 2 ounces of dry white lead in 1 pint of soft water. When dissolved, add 2 ounces of alcohol and stir briskly. Remove from the fire and bottle while hot. Or dissolve fn a double boiler 8 ounces of best white glue and S ounces of gum arable in 1 pint of soft water. Add slowly 5 ounces of strong nitric acid, stirring constantly, and allow to cool. Bottle and cork tightly, put- THE FAMILY WORKROOM 349 ting a few cloves in each bottle as a preservative. On dissolve with gentle heat in a double boiler 1 pound of best white glue and 2 ounces of isinglass in 1 quart of soft water. Stir in 6 ounces of white lead. Add 2 ounces of white varnish dissolved in J pint of alcohol, mixing the whole with gentle heat. This is an heroic mixture which ought to be capable of withstanding almost anything. Or mix equal quantities of common glue and isinglass, and cover with al- cohol. Let stand twenty-four hours. Melt the whole with gentle heat. Compound Marine Glue. — Dissolve i ounce of sandarac and J ounce of mastic in 8 fluid ounces of 95 per cent alcohol. Add J ounce of oil of turpentine. Prepare separately in a double boiler a solution of 1 ounce of isinglass and 3 ounces of best white glue in 1 pint of water. Mix the two solutions and strain while very hot through cheese cloth. This glue is a quick dryer and hardens under water. Compound Cements. — ^Dissolve in a double boiler 8 ounces of isinglass in 1 pint of soft water. Stir in 3 ounces of dry white lead and boil until stringy. Cool slightly, and add 3 ounces of alcohol. Bottle while warm and cork tightly. Or mix equal quantities of best white glue and isinglass broken fine, and cover with alcohol. Let stand twenty- four hours. Melt with gentle heat in a double boiler and stir in sufficient powdered chalk to make a soft ce- ment. Or dissolve 10 grains of mastic in 3 drams of alcohol. Add 1 ounce of isinglass dissolved in 1 ounce of brandy and 10 grains of gum am- moniac. Dissolve with gentle heat; bottle and cork tightly. Set the bot- tle in hot water when wanted. Or dissolve J ounce of isinglass and 1 ounce of white glue in 15 ounces of water. Strain through cheese cloth and evaporate with gentle heat to 3 ounces. Add 16 grains of mastic dis- solved in i ounce of alcohol and 1 ounce of zinc white. Shake well be- fore using. Special Adhesives — Wood Cement. — Mix 1 ounce of lime and 2 ounces of rye meal with boiled linseed oil to a stiff paste. Or dissolve 1 ounce of glue in 16 ounces of water, and stir in sawdust or prepared chalk or both to make a paste. Or thicken oil varnish with equal parts of white lead, red lead, litharge, and powdered chalk. Use these ce- ments to fill cracks and defects in woodwork before painting. Or mix 2 ounces of beeswax, 2 ounces of shellac, and 1 ounce of In- dian red, and color with yellow ocher to the shade required. Use this cement to fill cracks, cover nail heads, and the like in mahogany furniture. Cement for Glass. — Dissolve best white glue in as little water as possi- ble, and add by bulk one half as much linseed oil varnish and one fourth as much pure turpentine. Boil together in a double boiler closely covered to keep in the steam. Apply to glass and metal joints, holding the two sur- faces together with a vise if conven- ient or under weights for forty-eight hours until the cement sets. Or, for the same purpose, melt to- gether 5 ounces of rosin, 1 ounce of beeswax, 1 ounce of red ocher, and i tablespoonful of gypsum. Leather Cement. — Dissolve in a double boiler 1 ounce of pure isin- glass in J pint of ale. Add 2 ounces of common glue and dissolve with gen- tle heat. Stir in 1 ounce of boiled lin- seed oil until well mixed. This mix- ture will have the texture of India rubber. Bottle and cork tightly ,for future use. Dilute when required with fresh ale, and after shaving the sur- faces of the leather apply hot with a brush to harness and other belts, bands, etc. Let stand in a vise or under pressure until it sets. This is waterproof and a very powerful ad- hesive. Or dissolve in a double boiler equal quantities of glue and isinglass in water. Bring to a boil and stir in 350 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES pure tannin until tiie mixture assumes tlie appearance of white of egg. Siiave the leather, rub the edges with sand- paper to roughen them, and apply the cement while hot. It will make a stronger joint if the surface is first moistened with a solution of gallnuts. A j oint made' of this cement will be as strong as any other part of the leather. Or, to fasten leather and other fibrous material to metals, dissolve glue in hot vinegar and add one third by volume of hot white pine pitch. Collodion Cement. — Collodion is a mixture of 1 ounce of gun cotton and 1 ounce of alcohol in about 1 pound of ether. When used as a ce- ment or varnish to prevent rust or for other purposes, it easUy cracks and peels. To prevent this, add to each 18 ounces of collodion 4 ounces of Venice turpentine and 2 ounces of castor oil. Or, when using collodion for sur- gical purposes to dress cuts, etc., add to the ordinary collodion one eighth its volume of glycerin. This makes a varnish which adheres to the skin, but is elastic, and hence does not crack or crease. Coppersmith's Cement. — Thicken fresh beef blood with powdered quick- lime. Mix only as required and ap- ply at once, as it sets rapidly. This is suitable for mending copper boil- ers, rivets, leaks in copper pipes, fau- cets, and the like. It is both cheap and durable. Acid-proof Cement. — Mix in a double boiler IJ pounds of rosin, 4 ounces of dry red ocher, 3 ounces of plaster of Paris, and 1 ounce of linseed oil. Dissolve with gentle heat. Mix and apply while warm. Use this for cementing troughs to hold acid. It will stand boiling sul- phuric acid. Parchment Glue. — Boil in a double boiler 1 pound of parchment in 6 quarts of water down to 1 quart. Strain through cheese cloth to remove the sediment, and with gentle heat evaporate the liquid slowly to the con- sistency of glue. Bottle and cork tightly for use. Use this for fine work with delicate white paper. , Peach-tree Gum. — The gum which exudes from peach trees, when dis- solved in alcohol and thinned with water, is a suitable cement for mend- ing broken glassware, and is a good substitute for gum arable, Senegal, and tlie Uke. To Mend Glass and China. — To take off grease or varnish, wash the pieces in ammonia and water, or ap- ply alcohol or ether to the edges to be joined, but take care not to smooth off irregularities, as the rougher the surface the better the cement will hold. When the pieces are numerous it is best to unite them one at a time and let that harden before another is added. Select a quick-drying cement, heat the pieces, apply a thin coating of the cement to both surfaces, no more than wiU be partially absorbed, and bring the edges together before the cement sets. Hold them firmly until it hardens. After all the pieces have been thus united, let the article stand for several days or weeks be- fore using. Glue for Gilding. — Cut up rabbit skins as fine as possible, and boil them in water until the liquor on cooling is a firm gelatinous mass. Dilute with water, bring to a boil, and strain through a wire sieve. Dissolve 1 part of alum and 3 parts of sulphate of zinc in boiling water, pour into the clear mixture, stir the whole while hot, and strain into a mold until it cools and jells. The mass will now be thick enough to re- move from the mold and dry in the open air or with gentle heat. Colored Cement. — To make a col- ored cement suitable for uniting col- ored glass or china, mix soluble glass with fine chalk and stir in the desired coloring matter. This cement requires six or eight hours to set. The follow- ing coloring matters are recommended for this purpose: For black, sifted sulphide of an- timony. This can be burnished to a fine metallic luster. THE FAMILY WORKROOM S51 For gray black, fine iron dust. For gray, zinc dust. This is a suitable cement for zinc castings. It also adheres to metals, stone, or wood. For bright green, carbonate of cop- per. For dark green, sesquioxide of chromium. For blue, Thenard's blue. For yellow, litharge. For bright red, cinnabar. For violet, red carmine. Soluble glass with chalk alone makes a white cement. Equal quantities of sulphide of an- timony and iron dust with soluble glass, a black cement. Equal q«antities of zinc dust and Iron, a dark-gray cement. Soluble glass can be kept in liquid form if covered tightly to exclude the air. Hence it is better to mix these cements only when wanted, and to keep the materials at hand for use when required. CHAPTER XIII THE FAMILY WORKROOM Part Two — Paints and Varnishes USES OF PAINT— SPECIFICATIONS FOR PAINTING— CARE OF PAINTS AND BRUSHES-SPECIAL KINDS OF PAINT— VARNISHING— FIXED- OIL VARNISHES— SPIRIT OR LAC VARNISHES— VOLATILE-OIL VARNISHES— SPECIAL VARNISHES-SEALING WAX— OII5, LUB- RICATORS, ETC.- FURNITURE POLISH Paint, including painting and the care of paints, is an important sub- ject. Both the inner and outer walls and the floors of houses and most articles of furniture are painted. Hence a knowledge of the nature and properties of paint, both before and after its application, enables it to be put to a thousand practical uses in the household. The uses of paint are twofold, i. e., to protect the wood and other materials to which it is applied, and also to decorate them. The ingredients of paint are of two sorts: the pigments or coloring mat- ter, chosen mostly for decoration ; and the vehicle chosen to hold the color- ing matter in suspension, and also, when desired, to furnish the requisite protection. In mixing paints the various pig- ments are chosen according to the col- or wanted, and the different vehicles according to the use to which the paint is to be put. Linseed Oil for Paints.^The best vehicle for paints used to protect woodwork and other surfaces from moisture and decay is linseed oil. This is one of the so-called drying oils which, on exposure to the air, absorb oxygen and form a resinous varnish that closes the pores and excludes the agents of destruction from all sur- faces to which it is applied. Thus it holds the pigments in a firm water- proof varnish. Linseed oil is of two sorts: raw and boiled. The raw oil is of two grades: the cold-drawn and the hot-pressed or ordinary quality. Raw linseed oil dries slowly, passing through a gum- my or sticky stage before acquiring a hard, resinous surface. The object of boiling this oil with oxide of lead, peroxide of manganese, and borate or acetate of manganese is to cause it to dry more quickly. Boiling gives the oil a dark or high color. The raw oil is obtained from flaxseed by crush- ing the seed under great hydraulic pressure. When the seed is not heat- ed, the oil is said to be cold-pressed or cold-drawn, and is of a light or pale color, but when the crushed seed is heated and pressed hot, the oil is darker. Much more oil can be ex- tracted from the same quantity of seed by hot pressure. The cold-drawn oil is therefore more expensive, but it is of a better quality. Pigments for Paint. — The pigments or coloring matter used in paints are prepared by grinding them in a mill and mixing them with a small quan- tity of raw linseed oil. They come in small packages and are prepared for use by mixing them with an addition- al quantity of raw or boiled linseed oil and one or more colored pigments. 3S2 THE FAMILY WORKROOM 353 which are mixed together to produce any desired shade. Thinners for Paints. — The various pigments mixed with oil alone would make too thick a coating; hence other ingredients known as thinners are em- ployed to dilute them. These are oil of turpentine and benzine, which mix freely with linseed oil and various pigments, and reduce them to any de- sired consistency. Dryers for Paints. — Even boiled linseed oil does not dry quickly enough; hence to hasten the union of oxygen with the paint, which transforms it into a dry, hard, resinous substance, it is usual to mix paints vrith certain substances known as dryers. Among these are sugar (acetate) of lead, red lead, verdigris, binoxide of manganese, sulphate of zinc, etc. The most pow- erful dryer is boric manganese, even the -f uiajr part being enough to greatly hasten the drying of linseed oil. These and other dryers come ground in oil ready to mix with paint. Keady-made Paints. — The materials used for paints for home use must be kept separate and not mixed until the paint is about to be used. Or, if mixed in advance, the paint must be covered with water and kept from the air. Otherwise the thinner will evapo- rate, the pigment will settle to the bottom, and the oil will become thick and ropy, forming a hard skin over the top which cannot be dissolved. Hence paints are now mixed in fac- tories on a large scale by a process which forms an emulsion or perma- nent mixture of the pigment and the oil, and these can be had in any size cans, the contents of which are al- ways ready for use. However, any- one can obtain the necessary ingredi- ents, pigment, oils, thinner, and dryer, and mix paints for home use at less cost usually than he would have to pay for the ready-made article, and with the further advantage of know- ing precisely the nature and purity of all the ingredients employed. Water-color Faints. — Paints for in- terior work, walls, ceilings, pictures, maps, and the like, are sometimes pre- pared without oil by using as a. vehi- cle glue or gum dissolved in water. After the water evaporates, the glue or gum is left, and this causes the pigments to adhere to the surface. The ingredients must not be mixed until ready for use, as glue or gum will not keep in solution for any length of time. Calcimine is a paint of this char- acter, being a mixture of prepared chalk with a solution of glue and various colored pigments. Water colors can also be obtained in the form of cakes consisting of pigments and gum in solid form, which may be liquefied by dissolving in water or by rubbing them with a wet brush. Paints — Other Ingredients. — Be- sides linseed oil, for finer kinds of work, as the preparation of artist's colors, other oils, as nut and poppy oils, are sometimes used. Miscellaneous Ingredients. — Solu- ble glass, naphthas, tars, lime, and various other materials are sometimes employed for cheap paints or for special purposes. Poisonous sub- stances are sometimes mixed with the paint used about salt water to pre- vent marine plants and animals from fastening to painted surfaces, and phosphorus is sometimes added when a luminous paint is desired. USES OF FAINT ftuantity of Faint to Use. — To esti- mate the quantity of paint required, divide the number of square feet of surface by 300. The quotient is the number of gallons of paint required to give two coats. Or divide the number of square feet of surface by 18. The quotient is the number of pounds of pure ground white lead required to give three coats. Another rule is that new woodwork requires about 1 pound of paint to the square yard for three coats. But the rules vary according to the nature of the surface and its condi- tion, the temperature, and the like. 354 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Old woodwork, especially if iinpaint- ed or if the paint has been allowed to wear off, will absorb more paint than new wood. Some kinds of wood take more peiint than others, and sur- faces of stone, brick, or metal may take less than wood. Bules for House Fainting. — The best time to paint houses, barns, and other surfaces exposed to the sun is in winter when the ground is frozen. In summer the heat of the sun opens the pores of wood and other materials, which causes the oil to soak in, leav- ing the pigments exposed on the sur- face. This may be prevented by first going over the surface with raw oil; but paint applied when the surface is contracted by cold in winter dries slowly, forms a hard, tough coat like glass, and wiU last twice as long as if applied at any other time of the year. Another advantage of painting in cold weather is the absence of flies and other insects, and also the fact that there is much less dust. Paint- ing may, of course, be done indoors at any time of the year, but it must be understood that a hot surface will absorb more paint than a cold one and should be first primed with a coat of raw linseed oil. Buy, if possible, the best white lead and other pigments and the best oil, and mix the paint yourself. To paint new wood for the first time requires four or five operations — knotting, priming, and two or three coats of paint. Old woodwork pre- viously painted requires washing to remove the grease, and may require burning or other process to remove the paint, as well as refinishing the surface before the priming and fresh coats of paint are laid on. Or it may be sufficient to wash the surface to remove all grease spots, and to lay a fresh coat over the old paint. Keep up the paint on all surfaces that require painting. It is much cheaper after the original foundation has been laid to go over the wood- work with a thin coat of paint quite frequently, than to wait until the paint is all worn off in spots and the wood- work underneath is affected with dry rot. Recoat standing woodwork at least once in two years, and go over win- dow sills and sashes as often as they require it. Prepare paint to suit the purpose for which it is intended. Do not at- tempt to make one kind of paint serve every purpose. One kind of paint is required for the outside of a house and another for the inside; and there are special paints for iron, stone, brick, and other surfaces. Knotting. — The knots in pine boards and other resinous woods con- tain turpentine, and unless they are " kiUed " the turpentine will ooze out and destroy the paint. Hence to kiU knots apply with a brush a mix- ture of red and white lead ground with water and mixed with a strong glue size consisting of 2 to 4 ounces of glue to 1 gallon of water. Apply while warm to the knots with a brush. Follow with a second coat composed of 3 parts of white lead ground in oil and 1 part of red lead or litharge. When bone-dry, rub down with pumice stone. Priming. — After knotting, go over the surface with a very thin coat of priming, which consists of white lead with a very small quantity of dryer, as red lead or litharge, mixed with raw linseed oil. Use 1 pound of this priming for 18 or 20 square yards. Have no more oil than is necessary to make the lead work readily, but apply repeatedly and work the coat- ing out thin with a brush. Do not use a lot of thin priming. First Coat. — When the priming is dry, put on a second coat. The work is now said to be " primed and one coat," and is ready for painting, which requires one or two coats more. Second Coat. — Fill up all nail holes and the like, and lay on a regular coat of the desired color. Let dry for two or three days. Third Coat.— FinaUy add the third THE FAMILY WORKROOM 355. coat, if desired, of the same charac- ter as the second coat. Or the third coat may be thin, with a larger proportion of turpen- tine than the second coat, giving the paint a dull surface and a delicate bloom. This is called flatting. Fainting Woodwork Indoors. — Careful landlords go over the inside woodwork of a house frequently with paint and varnish. This preserves the woodwork and saves labor, strength, and time. It is not econ- omy to wait until the paint or var- nish cracks or wears off. The more frequently it is painted the longer the woodwork lasts, and the easier it is to keep in good order. If there is grease or soap on the woodwork the paint will not adhere. Hence, before painting, the surface should be cleaned by scrubbing with ammonia water or water containing kerosene or sal soda, and rinsed off thoroughly. Apply a second coat, if necessary, to get a smooth, hard surface. Window Sills and Sashes. — These should be " drawn " or painted fre- quently, as the rain outside and the steam inside collect on the glass and settle about the casings, causing them to rot unless kept in good order by fresh paint and varnish. If putty cracks or shows signs of decaying, it should be removed and new putty applied before painting. To Apply Paint. — The proper stroke in painting is short, say 8 or 10 inches. The brush should strike the surface nearly at right angles and in the middle of the stroke; that is to say, the painter deposits the added load 4 or S inches in advance of the unpainted surface, and not at the end of the last stroke, and works the color back and forth with the brush. The brush should be deep, so as to take up the paint through the hairs, and not merely on their ends, and the surface should be wiped so that it will not drip before using. But a brush should not be wiped on a cutting edge, or the bristles will be split and tend to curl backward. Hence paint should be taken from a pail or can having a wire fastened across the top or a smooth edge turned over to wipe the brush on. SFECIFIGATIOirS FOB FAINTIITG White lead — Specifications for Hew Work Outside. — The following specifications were very carefully pre- pared by an architect of great experi- ence for a leading manufacturer of pure white lead, and may be regarded as absolutely reliable: Before Painting. — All woodwork must be thoroughly dry before any paint is applied. No painting is to be done when rain or snow is falling, or until after the dew or moisture which may be on the surface has completely disappeared. Knot Killing. — Immediately after the woodwork is in place, all knots and sappy streaks shall be varnished with pure grain alcohol orange shel- lac varnish (knot killer). It is very important that only the best grain alcohol shellac should be used, as preparations of wood alco- hol (deadly poisonous), cheap shel- lacs, rosin, etc., are dangerous to health and apt to cause the knots to turn yellow after the work is com- pleted, thus spoiling the appearance of the work. Priming Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 6 to 7 gal- lons of pure raw linseed oil; 1 gallon of pure turpentine; IJ pints of pure turpentine japan. On white pine, poplar, and bass- wood (which more readily absorb oil) use 7 gallons of linseed oil. On yellow pine, spruce, and hem- lock use 6 gallons of linseed oil. In winter and damp weather from J pint to i pint additional turpen- tine japan should be used. A range of from 6 to 7 gallons of linseed oil has been specified to allow room for the painter's judgment; there may be circumstances where as much as 8 gallons of linseed oil to 100 pounds of white lead may be used 356 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES to advantage, but they are rare, and as a rule 7 gallons may be taken as a safe maximum. The painter may in some special cases find it advisable in the priming coat to increase the quantity of tur- pentine from i gallon to 1 gallon, but where this is done a correspond- ing decrease should be made in the specified amount of linseed oil. Priming coats should be thin, and well brushed out, but it is a mistake to have them too thin. Putty. — After the priming coat is thoroughly dry, putty up all nail holes, dents, cracks, and other defects in the surface with a pure linseed oil putty composed of equal parts of white lead and whiting. Nearly all the putty sold at pres- ent is made of other oils than lin- seed (chiefly products of petroleum) and ground cliffstone sand. The use of such putty is the explanation of the yellow nail holes and cracks so often marring the appearance of what is otherwise good work. The addition of 1 part of powdered litharge to 5 parts each of white lead and whiting in the composition of the white lead putty above speci- fied is permissible and, where conven- ient, advised. The addition of the litharge assists the drying and hardening of the putty. Second Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 5 gallons of pure raw linseed oil; J gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine j apan. In winter and damp weather from J pint to i pint additional turpen- tine japan should be used. Third Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 4 J gallons of pure raw linseed oil; J gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine j apan. In winter and damp weather from i pint to i pint additional turpen- tine japan should be used. Specifloations for New Work la- side. — Before Painting. — As above. Knot Killing. — As above. Priming Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 6 to 6 gal- lons of pure raw linseed oil; 2 gallons of pure turpentine; IJ pints of pure white turpentine japan. On white pine, poplar, and bass- wood (which more readily absorb oil) use 6 gallons of linseed oil. On yellow pine, spruce, and hem- lock use 5 gallons of linseed oil. In winter and damp weather from i pint to i pint additional turpen- tine japan should be used. A range of from 5 to 6 gallons of linseed oil has been specified to allow room for the painter's judgment; there may be circumstances where as much as 7 gallons of linseed oil to 100 pounds of white lead may be used to advantage, but they are rare, and as a rule 6 gallons may be taken as a safe maximum. The painter may in some special cases find it advisable in the priming coat to increase the quantity of tur- pentine from i gallon to 1 gallon, but where this is done a correspond- ing decrease should be made in the specified amount of linseed oil. Priming coats should be thin, and well brushed out, but it is a mistake to have them too thin. Putty. — As above. Second Coat — Oloss Finish. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 6 gallons of pure raw linseed oil; J gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. Third Coat — Oloss Finish. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 4J gallons of pure raw linseed oil; i gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. Finishing Coat — Flat. — One hun- dred pounds of pure white lead; J gallon of pure raw linseed oil; 3 to 3 J gallons of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. Finishing Coat — Eggshell Gloss. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 1 gallon of pure raw linseed oil; 2 gallons of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. Specifications for Old Work Out- side. — Before Painting. — As above. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 357 Preparation of Surface. — All loose paint, scales, dirt, and dust must be entirely removed. If there are scales, a wire brush should be used. Where window frames, sashes, doors, piazzas, etc., show cracks or scales, a paint burner or patent paint remov- er must be used to make the surface ready for painting. If new paint is applied over a sur- face that has cracked or scaled, a good job is impossible, as the rough surface will show through. If the old coat is pure white lead, then there will be no scales or cracks, and gently sandpapering with No. i to No. 1 sandpaper, followed by a good dusting, will put the surface in good condition for repainting. First or Priming Coat. — One hun- dred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 5 gallons of pure raw linseed oil; 1 gallon of pure turpentine; 14 pints of pure turpentine japan. In winter and damp weather from J pint to i pint additional turpentine japan should be used. Putty. — As above. Second or Finishing Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead ; 4 to 4J gallons of pure raw linseed oil; I gallon of pure turpentine; IJ pints of pure turpentine japan. In winter and damp weather from I pint to i pint additional turpen- tine japan should be used. Specifications for Old Work In- side. — Preparation of Surface. — As above. Priming. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 1 gallon of pure raw linseed oil; 2 gallons of pure turpen- tine; 14 pints of pure white turpen- tine japan. The painter may in some special cases find it advisable in the prim- ing coat to increase the quantity of turpentine from i gallon to 1 gallon, but where this is done a correspond- ing decrease should be made in the specified amount of linseed oil. Priming coats should be thin, and well brushed out, but it is a mistake to have them too thin. Putty. — As above. Finishing Coat — Oloss. — One hun- dred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 5 gallons of pure raw linseed oil ; 4 gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. Finishing Coat — Plat. — One hun- dred pounds of pui-e white lead; 4 gallon of pure raw linseed oil; 3 to 24 gallons of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. Finishing Coat — Eggshell Oloss. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead ; 1 gallon of pure raw linseed oil ; 2 gallons of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine white dryer. If painting is done white or light over a previous dark finish, three coats may be necessary. In such case put on a second coat mixed similar to first coat and finish as specified. Specifications for Fainting Brick, Stucco, and Concrete. — Brickwork. — If any mortar has become loose and washed out between the bricks, all such damaged places shall be repoint- ed with mortar or Portland cement, before any paint is applied. After priming, correct small defects in sur- face with putty. New brickwork shall not be primed except when thoroughly dry. At least two or three days of dry, clear weath- er shall precede painting. No paint- ing shall be done in cold weather. Stucco or Concrete Work. — Stucco or concrete work shall be allowed to dry and set at least two months be- fore paint is applied. The longer concrete work is allowed to dry out before painting, the better, even up to one year. If a longer time is available, specify it instead of the time given above. Formulas. — The paint for all brick, stucco, or concrete shall be mixed ac- cording to the following formulas: Priming Coat. — One hundred pounds of white lead; 9 gallons of pure boiled linseed oil (or 9 gallons of pure raw linseed oil and I4 pints of tur- pentine dryer) ; 1 gallon of turpentine. Body Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 gallons of pure linseed oil, one third boiled, two thirds 358 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES raw (or 4 gallons of pure raw linseed oil and 1 pint of turpentine dryer). Finishing Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 3J gallons of pure linseed oil, one third boiled, two thirds raw (or 3J gallons of pure raw linseed oil and 1 pint of turpen- tine dryer) ; 1 pint of turpentine. Strictly kettle-boiled linseed oil should be used as specified whenever possible, especially on stucco and con- crete, because it is less liable than raw oil to degenerate under the peculiar influence of lime, cement, etc. If strictly kettle-boiled oil is not avail- able, use the alternative specifications for raw oil and a, dryer. Specifications for Fainting Steel and Ironwork. — Before erection. — Before it leaves the shops, all steel and ironwork shall be thoroughly cleaned of all mill scale, dirt, rust, and oil, and receive one coat of red lead paint mixed according to the for- mula given below. Surfaces which will be inaccessible after structure is erect- ed shall receive two coats of this paint before erection. Formula. — Pure dry red lead, 30 to 33 pounds ; pure raw linseed oil, 1 gal- lon. These ingredients shall be thor- oughly mixed no longer than twenty- four hours before being used. After Erection. — AU structural ironwork shall be cleaned after erec- tion and all abrasions in first coat of paint brushed clean with a stiff wire brush and repainted. All surfaces shall then receive one additional coat of red lead paint prepared according to above formula. AU pipes, including automatic sprinklers, steam and hot-water radi- ators, conducting pipes, and interiorly exposed structural metal work shall receive two coats as above. Fire es- capes, smokestacks, gutters, down spouts, and all other interior metal work shall receive three coats as above with 1 pound of pure lampblack, ground in oil, added to every 28 pounds of red lead used in the third coat. Subsequent coats on exposed metal work shall be of strictly pure white lead and linseed oil, tinted according to the color scheme employed in the building. Paint shall not be applied until pre- viously applied paint is thoroughly dry. No painting shall be done in wet or freezing weather. Specifications for Fainting Hetal Hoofs, Cornices, etc. — New Work. — AU new metal, tin, galvanized iron, iron, or steel, used for roofing, cor- nices, valleys, gutters, down spouts, iron raUings, gratings, etc., shaU be painted according to the foUowing specifications : Before Painting. — AU surfaces shaU be carefuUy cleaned by scrubbing with sand soap and water, and thoroughly dried, before paint is applied. Only when this is done wiU the paint ad- here properly to the metal. This is very important. Formula. — Pure dry red lead, 30 pounds; pure boiled linseed oil, J gal- lon; pure raw Unseed oil, | gaUon; pure lampblack ground in oil, 4 ounces. Mixing. — The materials must be thoroughly mixed before appUcation. The mixture shaU be of uniform con- sistency and stirred frequently whUe in use. Application. — AU surfaces shaU re- ceive two uniform coats, as above. When necessary to follow color scheme, finishing coats of pure white lead and Unseed oU, tinted to suit, shaU be applied over these coats. Each coat shaU dry thoroughly before the next is appUed. Paint on under side of roofing shaU dry hard before roof- ing is laid. Old Work. — Metal surfaces not new shaU be thoroughly cleaned with wire brush, removing all loose paint and particles, and then painted as above. Specifications for Fainting witli Zinc White. — Outside. — ^Any of the foUowing combinations may be used at discretion: Combination " A." — Primer, pure lead; second coat, pure lead; third coat, pure zinc. The primer may be tinted with not vJ THE FAMILY WORKROOM 359 more than 1 per cent of pure lamp- black, ocher, or umber in oil. This applies to all combinations, except where the final finish is to be white. Combination " B." — Primer, pure lead ; second coat, J zinc, § lead ; third coat, pure zinc. Combination " C." — Primer, pure lead ; second coat, J zinc, J lead ; third coat, § zinc, J lead. Combination " D." — Primer, J zinc, i lead; second coat, J zinc, i lead; third coat, J zinc, J lead. Combination " E " — Straight Zinc, Four-coat Work (_White). — Primer, pure zinc with 1 pint of turpentine to the gallon of paint; second coat, pure zinc with i pint of turpentine to the gallon of paint; third coat, pure zinc with 1 gill of turpentine to the gallon of paint; fourth coat, pure zinc ground in pure linseed oil (without turpentine) . Combination " F " — Straight Zinc, Three-coat Work {White). — Primer, pure zinc, with J pint of turpentine to the gallon of paint ; second coat, pure zinc with 1 gill of turpentine to the gallon of paint; third coat, pure zinc with all oil. In aU the foregoing, only a sufficient quantity of dryer to be used to insure work drying in five days. Where tints are desired, add to the foregoing tints as desired, mixed with pure oil colors. Inside Painting, Woodwork. — Where dark tones are required, the same combinations may be used as are specified on outside work. Where light tones are required, combinations " B," " E," or " F " may be used; if white or very light, "E" or " F " should be used. Where a flat surface is required, the proportion of turpentine should be increased and that of oil decreased to the point where a desired flatness is obtained. Plaster Painting, Inside. — ^Make all plaster work perfectly smooth and clean by brushing and sandpapering and washing if necessary, to remove any discoloration which will show through or injure paint. The specifications should be the same as the foregoing, except that an- other coat should be added. This coat should be the same as the primer if tone is dark and the same as final coat if tone is light. If an extraordinarily good job is required, both the above primer and final coats should be repeated, making five coats in all. Enamel Painting on Walls or on Woodwork. — First coat, primer of pure lead and linseed oil; second coat, i lead and i zinc; third coat, J lead and § zinc, with the addition of suffi- cient varnish to form a proper sur- face for final coat. Or any of the foregoing formulas may be used with the addition of var- nish to the third coat. The above coats to be applied care- fully and evenly, with brush marks showing as little as possible, and each coat to be lightly sandpapered so that final coat may be flowed on without showing any brush marks. Final coat to be a first grade of interior varnish with the addition of only sufficient zinc and color to produce the approved tint and to be carefully flowed on. Good workmen can make a first- class job of the above, and a bad workman can, if so inclined, so stint the materials and workmanship that it may not be satisfactory, and an- other final coat may be necessary. ShovJd the bidding be public and the architects be unable to select painters of known reputation, a clause like the following may be added: If, after the fourth coat, the work is not satisfactory, then the painter shall without extra charge do what- ever is necessary to make the work perfectly satisfactory. Stipple Wall Painting. — First coat, pure lead; second coat, J zinc and J lead (half turpentine and half oil) ; third coat shall be of stippling putty mixed with zinc and hard oil, and to be stippled evenly and lightly; fourth coat shall be of pure zinc in oil and turpentine (with such tint as re- quired), to be applied perfectly even and to be only of sufficient thickness 360 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES to give proper tint and show stip- pling. CASE OF FAINTS AND BBTJSHES To Keep Paint Eresh. — Any paint left over after using must be sealed. Or it may be kept fresh in an open can or paU by merely filling up the vessel with water. When the paint is again needed the water may be poured off. But take care that the water does not evaporate, as in that case the paint will be ruined. Care of Brushes. — Paint brushes should not be left in paint or allowed to rest on the bristles in such a way as to curve the bristles to one side. After using, they should be thoroughly cleaned with turpentine and dried. Or the bristles should be immersed in a slow-drying varnish, the handles be- ing suspended so that the bristles will not touch the bottom of the can, and the whole covered to keep out the air. Or clean brushes first in linseed oil, then in warm soapsuds, and hang up to dry. Or, if likely to be used again short- ly, they may be suspended in water, oil, or varnish. But take care that these materials do not evaporate and allow the brush to get dry, as it may be ruined. To preserve brushes for future use without cleaning, bore a hole through the handle, string them on a wire, and suspend in a covered can containing linseed oil or varnish sufScient to cov- er the bristles. Close the can tightly to prevent evaporation. To Glean Paint Brushes. — When brushes become hard or gummed with oil and paint, soak the bristles in soft soap for two or three days, but do not immerse the head of the brush. Then soak out the paint in hot water. To Paint Furniture. — Furniture, cabinetwork, carriages, and the like, which require a highly finished sur- face, should first have all old paints and varnish removed by means of burning or otherwise, and the surface reflnisbed, Or, if the old paint is not badly checked or cracked, it may be sufS- cient to wash the work quite clean and rub it down to a dead finish with a wet cloth and ground pum- ice powder, and again wash and dry before painting. This takes off all grease and oil, and provides a sur- face on which paint and varnish will lie smoothly and adhere. Dryer for Paint. — Bring ej pounds of water to a boil, and slowly stir in i pound of shellac and J pound of borax. Stir constantly until a com- plete emulsion is formed. This solu- tion is a resinous varnish which, like paint, is waterproof and resists the action of the elements. To use this as a dryer, mix equal quantities of this solution with oil paints and thin slightly with turpentine, stirring to make a complete emulsion. Prepare this mixture only as wanted, since it dries in 10 to 20 minutes. To Thin Oil Paint with Water.— Dissolve 1 pound of gum shellac in 3 pints of water, adding i pound of sal soda or a little more if necessary, and stir until all is dissolved. When cold, bottle for use. Instead of tur- pentine or benzine thinners, add to oil paints of any kind 1 pint of the gum shellac mixture to 2 quarts of oil paint. Afterwards thin with wa- ter to any desired consistency. SPECIAL KINDS OF PAINT Lime Paint. — A mixture combining the qualities of paint with those of whitewash may be made with slaked lime as a basis by the addition of various materials, as milk, whiting, salt, alum, copperas, potash, ashes, sand, and pitch, with or without a small proportion of white lead and linseed oil. These mixtures are more durable than whitewash, but have less finish than white lead and oil. The cost is intermediate between the two. To prepare a lime paint, slake lime with water and let dry to the consistency of paste. Thin with gkiwroed nulk to the proper thiCk- THE FAMILY WORKROOM S61 ness to lay on with a brush. Add coloring matter as desired. Or slake 4 ounces of lime with water to the consistency of cream and stir into it 4 quarts of skimmed milk. Sprinkle on the surface through a sieve 6 pounds of whiting. Let this gradually sink, then stir and rub to- gether thoroughly and add coloring matter as desired. The casein or curd of milk, by the action of caus- tic lime becomes insoluble and pro- duces a paint of great tenacity suit- able for farm buildings, cellars, walls, and all rough outdoor purposes Ap- ply with a paint brush. Two or three coats will be necessary. The above quantity is sufficisnt for 100 square yards. Or slake stone lime in a cask or barrel with boiling water. Cover it to keep in the steam. Sift 6 quarts through cheese cloth or a fine sieve, add 1 quart of coarse salt and 1 gallon of water. Boil and skim the mixture clear. While boiling, stir in for each 5 gallons of this mixture 1 pound of alum, i pound of copperas, I pound of potash, and 4 quarts of finely sifted ashes or fine sand. Add these ingredients slowly and stir vig- orously until all are incorporated. Remove from the fire and add any coloring matter desired. Or slake 8 ounces of lime and let stand exposed to the air 34 hours. Mix with this 1 pint of milk. Stir in slowly 2 ounces of white pitch dissolved in 6 ounces of boiled lin- seed oil. Add 3 pints of skimmed milk and sift on top of this mixture 3 pounds of whiting, allowing this to sink of its own weight. Then stir and rub the whole together until thoroughly incorporated. Add col- oring matter as desired. This quan- tity is sufficient to give two coats for 37 square yards. Or mix 2 parts by bulk of fine ground water lime and 1 part of white lead ground in oil. Mix with boiled linseed oil and grind through a paint mill. Then mix with linseed oil to the proper consistency. Add coloring matter as desired. This is said to be more durable than ordi- nary paints based on lead alone. Paint with Zinc. — Dissolve 4 pounds of crude sulphate of zinc in 1 gallon of hot soft water. Let the mixture settle, and turn off the clear solution from the sediment. Mix this solution with an equal amount of paint composed of lead and oil, and stir slowly until a perfect emulsion is formed, which will require 10 or 15 minutes. Thin, if necessary, with turpentine. This is a cheap paint, costing about 1 cent a pound, and is very durable. This recipe is said to have been sold for as much as $100 for painter's use. Fireproof Paint. — Mix equal amounts of powdered iron filings, brick dust, and sifted ashes. Grind the whole to a fine powder. Prepare a warm glue size by dissolving 4 ounces of glue in 1 gallon of water. Stir into this the powdered mixture, to the proper consistency, and ap- ply with a paint brush. Two or three coats will render woodwork fire- proof. Or slake stone lime in boiling wa- ter, covering it to keep in the steam. Reduce with water to the consistency of cream, and to each S gallons add 1 pound of powdered alum, 13 ounces of carbonate of potassium, and J pound of common salt. Stir in these ingredients in the order men- tioned. Add coloring matter as de- sired. Mix well, bring to the boiling point, and apply while hot. This is a suitable paint for the roofs of farm buildings and the like. Paint for Blackboards. — Dissolve 4 ounces of glue in IJ pints of warm water; add 3 ounces of flour of em- ery and sufficient lampblack to make a mixture of the color and consist- ency of jet-black ink. Stir until free from lumps, and apply with the end of a roll of woolen cloth. Three coats will be necessary. Or take 2 quarts of alcohol, and mix 3 ounces of rotten stone, 5 ounces of pumice stone, and 6 ounces of lampblack with enough of the al- cohol to form a stiff paste. Grind 362 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES this mixture in a paint mill. Dissolve 7 ounces of shellac in the remainder of the alcohol and mix the whole. Shake or stir before using. This quantity will give two coats on about 30 square yards of blackboard. Let the first coat dry thoroughly before applying the second. To Imitate Stonework. — An imita- tion of a stone surface may be made either by mixing fine road dust or sand with paint, or by sprinkling a freshly painted surface with sand from a shaker having holes in the top simUar to a pepper box. Mix 100 pounds of road dust, 25 pounds of white lead ground in oil, 50 pounds of whiting, 7 pounds of umber, and 3 gallons of lime water. Grind with linseed oil. This gives a solid stone color. Or prepare an ordinary oil paint with white lead and suitable coloring matter, and while the surface is wet dust fine sand over it from a shaker. This imitates a stone surface. Soluble Glass Paints. — Silicate of sodium or soluble glass may be used as a vehicle for coloring matter, es- pecially for walls and ceilings, as it produces a very hard and durable surface. The coating of soluble glass containing coloring matter may be followed with a coating of clear solu- ble glass. This substance is much cheaper than the oil and lead paint, and has the advantage of being par- tially fireproof. It may be mixed with glycerin for flexible surfaces, as cloth, paper, etc. Pigments suitable to use with solu- ble glass are terra di Sienna, green earth, ocher, red and yellow earth, Nuremberg green, chrome green, and ultramarine. Acid-proof Faint. — Mix pulverized asbestos with a sirup solution of wa- ter glass to the consistency of paste until free from lumps. Thin with a solution of water glass as free from alkali as possible, and apply with a paint brush. This dries as hard as glass and resists the action of acid. Sarrel Faint. — Dissolve 8 pounds of rosin in 1 gallon of boiling linseed oU by boiling in a kettle and stir- ring until dissolved. This mixture is known as gloss oil. Use equal parts of gloss oil and benzine as a vehicle with lead, zinc, or anything you de- sire to use as a pigment. Stir well before using. Glue Faint for Kitchen Floors. — Mix 3 pounds of spruce yellow with 2 pounds of dry white lead. Dis- solve 2 ounces of glue in 1 quart of water with gentle heat. When near- ly boiling, stir in the mixture and continue stirring until it thickens to the consistency of paste. Apply hot with a common paste brush. To Mix Colored Paints. — The col- ored pigments used in mixing colored paints come ground in oil in the fol- lowing colors: white, yellow, red, blue, green, brown, black. They also come in the form of powders. To prepare these for painting, it is only necessary to mix them with the prop- er amount of boiled linseed oil, with the addition of a thinner or dryer if desired. They are then ready to use. Other tints and shades are pre- pared by mixing and blending the above colors. The following are among the principal pigments used in mixing colored paints: White Faint. — White lead is usual- ly the basis of white paint, but It is often adulterated with barytes, oxide of zinc, prepared chalk, whiting, lime, or road dust. AU paint intended to show a pure white should have about J ounce of Prussian blue mixed with every 3 pounds of white lead, other- wise the lead appears as a stone color and not white. To mix white paint, use pure boiled linseed oil, and thin as desired ac- cording to conditions with oil of tur- pentine. Yellow Paint. — The yellows are usu^ ally ochers, chromate of lead, and various adulterants. To prepare chrome yellow pigment, dissolve in hot water 5 pounds of sugar of lead and 5 pounds of Paris white. Dissolve separately in hot water 6J ounces of bichromate of pot- ash. Add the bichromate solution to THE FAMILY WORKROOM the former, mix, and let stand 24 hours. Strain through muslin and expose to the air to dry. Mix with boiled linseed oil. To make a cheap yellow paint, take 60 pounds of whiting, 40 pounds of ocher, and 5 pounds of white lead ground in oil. Grind with raw lin- seed oil and mix with boiled linseed oil. Red Paint. — The reds are usually red oxide of lead, ochers, oxides of iron, red oxide of copper, vermilion, bichromate of lead, carmine, and mad- der and other lakes. Mix any of the above with boiled linseed oil and ap- ply- Or, to make cheap red paint, mix Venetian red with skimmed milk and apply with a. paint brush. This is suitable for gates, stone walls, and outbuildings. Or use oxide of iron mixed with a little boiled linseed oU. This is cheap and gives a very durable stain. Blue Paint. — The blues are usually Prussian blue, ultramarine, smalt, Thenard blue, verditer, etc. To nmke Prussian blue pigment take 1 pint of nitric acid, and add slowly as much iron shavings from the lathe or iron filings heated, but not red hot, as the acid will dissolve. After the acid has dissolved all it can, add to it 1 quart of soft water, and continue to add iron shavings or fil- ings as long as the acid dissolves them. Make a strong solution of prussiate of potash in hot water, and slowly add this to the iron and acid until the right tint is obtained. Strain through muslin, dry the sediment to powder, and grind or mix with boiled linseed oil. Or dissolve separately equal quan- tities of sulphate of iron (copperas) and prussiate of potash. Mix the two solutions, strain through muslin, dry the sediment to powder, and mix or grind with oil. Green Faint. — The greens are usu- ally verdigris, Paris green, verditer, borate of copper, chromate of copper, oxide of chromium, cobalt green, and green lakes. The most common green paint is a mixture of chrome yellow and Prussian blue. To make chrome green pigment, mix in the form of powder 6J pounds of Paris white, 3J pounds of sugar of lead, 3i pounds of blue vitriol, lOJ ounces of alum, 3J pounds of Prus- sian blue, and 3J pounds of chrome yellow. Stir these powders slowly into 1 gallon of water. Let stand 4 hours, filter or strain through muslin, dry the sediment to powder, and mix or grind with boiled linseed oil. Or dissolve separately chrome yel- low and Prussian blue. Mix the two solutions to get the desired shade, and add spruce yellow to the proper con- sistency. Or slake the best quality of stone lime with hot water, covering to keep in the steam. Strain through a fine sieve, let dry, and reduce the sediment to powder. Make this powder into a thick paste with a saturated solution of alimi, and add, tmtil the desired shade is produced, enough solution of bichromate of potash to produce a yellowish green, and solution of sul- phate of copper to produce a bluish green. Or mix thoroughly in powdered form 5 pounds of -blue vitriol, 6J pounds of sugar of lead, 3i pounds of arsenic, and IJ ounces of bichromate of potash. Add 3 pints of water, mix, and let stand 4 hours. Strain or filter, dry the sediment to powder, and grind or mix with boiled linseed oil. To make cheap green paint, dissolve 4 pounds of Roman vitriol in hot water. Add 2 pounds of pearlash and stir until dissolved. Add J pound of powdered yellow arsenic. Mix and apply with a paint brush. Two or three coats will be necessary. A dark- er or a lighter shade may be pro- duced by adding more or less of the yellow arsenic. This paint contains no oil. Hence, while it looks well, it does not protect wood as does an oil paint, but is suitable for stone walls and similar places. Or mix powdered charcoal with lin- seed oil, and add litharge as a dryer, using 1 gill to 1 gallon of oil. Add 304 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ocher to produce the required shade of green. Brown Faint. — The browns are usu- ally umber, bole, terra di Sienna, bis- tre, sepia, etc. To produce a brown pigment, make a solution of sulphate of copper in hot water, and separately a strong solution of prussiate of potash. Mix the two solutions to the desired shade. Filter or strain through muslin. Dry the sediment to a powder. Grind or mix with boiled linseed oil. Black Faint. — The blacks are usu- ally lampblack, bone black, anthra- cite, graphite, powdered charcoal, etc. Lampblack is very commonly used both for black paint and also to mod- ify the brightness of tone in other colors in producing various tints and shades. To make a cheap black paint, mix powdered charcoal with linseed oil, and add as a dryer 1 gUl of litharge to 1 gallon of oil. Or take ivory or lampblack, 10 pounds; sifted road dust, 20 pounds; lime water, 2 gallons. Grind in raw linseed oil. Mix with boiled linseed oil. Tints and Shades. — The various combinations of colors to produce tints and shades are innumerable, and can only be determined by experi- ment; but the following are the prin- cipal effects commonly desired, and indicate the lines along which the ex- periment should proceed. Pigments should be thinned with boiled linseed oil before mixing, the most predominant color being taken as a base, the other colors being slow- ly added in a tliin stream and stirred vigorously. The proportions must be determined by experiment and the taste of the painter. The predom- inant color stands first in the follow- ing list: Ash color or gray, white lead and lampblack. Vary the quantity of lampblack to give the shade desired. Lead color, white lead and indigo. Drab, white lead, raw and burnt umber. White oak, white lead and umber. Flesh color, white lead, lake, or yel- low ocher, or vermilion. Pearl, white lead, black, and blue. Buff, white lead and yellow ocher. Straw color, white lead and a small amount of yellow ocher. Fawn, white lead, yellow ocher, and red. Chestnut, red, black, and yeUow. Walnut, white lead and burnt um- ber. "Vein with the same, and touch the deepest spots with black. Light wiUow green, white lead and verdigris. Pea green, white lead and chrome green. Grass green, yellow ocher and ver- digris. Olive, yellow ocher, blue, black, and white. Vein with burnt umber. Bronze green, chrome green, black, and yellow. Orange, yellow and red. Brick color, red lead, yellow ocher, and white lead. Brown, vermilion, black, and a lit- tle yellow. Chocolate, raw umber, red, and black. Violet, red lead, Prussian blue, and white lead. Purple, same as violet, with more red and white. Gold, white lead, stone ocher, and red lead. Carnation, lake and pink. Timber color, spruce ocher, white lead, and a little umber. Chestnut color, red ocher, yellow ocher, and black. Limestone, white lead, yellow ocher, lampblack, and red lead. Freestone, red lead, lampblack, yel- low ocher, and white lead. Paint for Canvas. — Mix with boiled oil 24 pounds of ocher and 4 pounds of lampblack. Add 1 pound of soap dissolved in 3 pounds of water. Mix and apply with a paint brush two coats at intervals of 2 or 3 days. Allow to dry, and add a finishing coat of varnish formed of lampblack ground and thinned with boiled oil. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 365 VASiriSEIITG Before varnishing, the surface should first be " flatted " either by mixing the last coat of paint with turpentine or by rubbing it down with a piece of felt moistened and dipped in pumice stone. For a level surface, tack the felt on a block of wood, or use thick woolen cloth or chamois tacked to a block of wood, or a smooth piece of pumice stone with water. Let dry and brush off the surface to remove the dust. Take care that the air is not full of dust when the varnish is applied. For a fine quality of work, two to six coats may be spread on, one after the other. Do not lift too much var- nish on the brush, but rather take up a small quantity, spread it on finely, and rub out well. Rub down the next to the last coat until the gloss is " flatted," and let the last be a flow- ing coat, heavy enough to flow out evenly of itself. For a cheaper grade of work, two or three coats are sufS- cient, the last coat being flowed on. To finish varnish, rub down with very finely pulverized pumice stone, and wash off with clear water. Af- terwards rub down with rotten stone and sweet oil, applied by means of the bare hands. Finally wipe and polish with chamois. Killing Knots. — Use for this pur- pose only the best quality of pure grain alcohol orange shellac varnish or "knot killer." Apply over this with a brush equal parts of red and white lead ground with water, and mixed with hot glue size at the rate of 4 ounces of glue to a gallon of water. Apply before it cools. And «Eor fine work, follow with a second coat of 3 parts of white lead ground in oU, and 1 part of red lead or litharge. Or, for cabinetwork, cover the knot with an oil size and lay over it silver or gold leaf. Or hold a hot iron against it until the pitch stews out so that it can be scraped off. Afterwards cQver with gold or silver leaf. Ingredients of Varnish. — Varnish is a solution of various gums, as the resins amber, copal, dragon's blood, mastic, lac, rosin, and sandarac, in various solvents, as alcohol, wood spir- it, oil of turpentine, linseed, and other drying oils. It is used as a decora- tion to produce a hard, transparent, or glossy surface, and also as a pro- tection against moisture and air. Resins. — Resins in general are sub- stances that occur in various plants, and which flow from trees of different species when the bark is cut. They are usually yellow and do not crystal- lize, but form in drops like gum. They are not, however, the same as gum, although the two words are often used interchangeably. Amber. — A resin produced from certain extinct coniferous trees. It occurs as a fossil, usually of a pale yellow color, opaque, or transparent. It is mined the same as coal in vari- ous parts of the world, especially in the vicinity of the Baltic Sea. Small quantities are found in the United States. Amber was much prized by the ancients and was an object of commerce in prehistoric times. It is extensively used for ornaments, es- pecially for the mouthpiece of pipes. Anime. — A resin which exudes from a certain tree in Brazil. Used as u. medicine and as incense. The name is also applied to a resin known in India as copal. Copal. — This name is applied to several resins used in varnishes. It is a nearly colorless, translucent sub- stance imported from tropical Amer- ica, India, and eastern and western Africa. Zanzibar copal is said to be the best. lac. — A resinous substance caused to exude from certain trees in Asia by the bites of an insect about the size of a louse. The twig punctured by these insects becomes incrusted with lac, sometimes to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. It protects the eggs and supplies food for the young maggots. The mothers are of- ten imprisoned and covered by the sticky fluid, imparting to it a lac 366 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES dye similar to cochineal. The twigs are broken off before the maggots es- cape and are dried in the sun. Stick-lac is the crude product or dry twigs. It is not soluble in water except the lac dye or red coloring matter, which washes out. It is par- tially soluble in alcohol, but not in linseed oil or turpentine. Seed-lac is the resin removed from the twigs, and washed with water to remove the lac dye or coloring mat- ter. It is coarsely pounded. Xump-lac is seed-lac melted into lumps. Shell-lac (or shellac) is prepared from seed-lac by melting and strain- ing through cotton. lac Resin. — The essential principle of shellac may be obtained pure by refining shellac, which for this pur- pose is treated with cold alcohol, fil- tered, and distilled. It is a brown, translucent, hard, and brittle resin, and is very valuable. Shellac may be dissolved in alcohol, dilute hydrochlor- ic and acetic acids, sal ammoniac, and alkalies. One part of borax dissolved in boiling water will dissolve five times its weight of shellac, making a solu- tion which is as useful for many pur- poses as spirit varnish. Shellac is much favored as a var- nish, being harder than rosin and eas- ily soluble in alcohol. It is also the principal ingredient of the best seal- ing wax. It is used as a size and has valuable waterproofing qualities. Mastic. — A valuable gum resin pro- duced from certain trees and shrubs in Barbary, the Levant, and China. It is used as an ingredient in many varnishes. Used by itself it is trans- parent, brilliant, tough, and delicate. It is also often employed in finishing maps and paintings, also in medicine, dentistry, and in mounting articles for the microscope. Mastic is used with other ingredients in varnish to impart a gloss. Rosin or Colophony. — This sub- stance is the residue obtained by dis- tilling crude turpentine from pine trees, of which it comprises about 70 per cent to 90 per cent. It is largely manufactured together with oil of turpentine in North Carolina. In col- or it ranges, according to its purity, from transparent or straw color to a brownish yellow. It can be dissolved in alcohol, ether, wood spirit, linseed oil, or turpentine, partly in petroleum but not }n water. It can also be dis- solved by nitric acid and alkalies. It is largely used in varnishes and cements, in calking ships, in the preparation of plaster and ointments, in soldering metals, in making yellow soaps, and otherwise. A common use is for covering the bows of violins. Sandarao is produced from a small coniferous tree in Barbary. It oc- curs in pale-yellow oblong grains or tears covered with a fine dust. It is transparent and brittle. It is used in pharmacy as an incense, and in varnishes, and also in powdered form it is rubbed on writing paper where erasures have been made in order to prevent the spread of ink. It is part- ly soluble in cold alcohol, and wholly in alcohol brought to the boiling point. Gums. — Gums are substances which occur in plants and some animals, but which are neither oily nor resinous. They exude for the most part from various trees when the bark is cut. The principal gums are arable, Sene- gal, mesquite, tragacanth, Bassora. They are principally employed in the manufacture of mucilage, also in med- icine, pharmacy, confectionery, calico printing in the preparation of the inks, and also for sizes. Gums Arabic and Senegal. — These gums exude from various trees in Africa and Asia, and are sold under various trade terms denoting the localities from which they come. Gum Mesquite. — A substance sim- ilar to gum arable, but produced in plants growing in the dry regions of Mexico and adjacent parts of the United States. It differs from the other gums in the fact that its prin- ciple is not precipitated by borax. Gums arable, Senegal, and mesquite are easily soluble in hot or cold water, forming mucilage. They can be sepa- THE FAMILY WORKROOM 367 rated from water by the addition of alcohol or subacetate of lead. They are coagulated by borax, except gum mesquite. Gums tragacanth and Bassora swell, but do not perfectly dissolve, in water. They can, however, be rubbed with water into a very adhesive paste, which is not, strictly speaking, a solution. Asphalt. — Asphalt occurs in nature in veins, beds, and lakes, usually be- neath the surface of the ground. In the island of Trinidad, Venezuela, occur lakes of asphalts about three miles in circumference. It is a dry solid with a glossy black surface eas- ily melted and very inflammable. It can be dissolved in alcohol, linseed oil, turpentine, or ether, also in ben- zol and bisulphide of carbon. With benzol it forms an intensely black solution called black varnish. It is used for varnish, insulation, water- proofing cement, roofing, and paint- ing. Kinds of Varnish. — The character of varnish is largely affected by the substance in which it is dissolved. Thus we have fixed-oil varnishes in which the principal solvent is turpen- tine ; spirit varnishes or " lac varnish- es," true solutions of resins in alco- hol, wood spirit, acetone, benzine, etc. ; volatile-oil varnishes, the principal solvents being oil of turpentine, and ether varnishes, being solutions of res- in in ether. In addition to the above are various special varnishes of gutta percha, wax, and other substances. FIXED-OIL VABNISHES Solutions of resins in boiled lin- seed oil have the same durable qual- ity as oil paint, with the addition of a high luster. As in paint, the linseed oil absorbs oxygen from the air, and is converted into a tough, elastic waterproof substance. To prepare fixed-oil varnishes, melt the resins anime, amber, copal, etc.; heat the boiled linseed oil to a high temperature, and pour it into the melted resin in a thin stream, stir- ring constantly. To test the proper amount of linseed oil to be added to the resin, take out a drop of the fluid now and then and let it cool on a glass plate. When the proportion: of oil and resins are correct, the drop will be limpid like wax. If the drop becomes hard and brittle, more oil is required. When mixed, remove from the fire and allow the mixture to cool. Then dilute to the proper consistency by pouring in turpentine in a, thin stream and stirring constantly. But first boil the mixture of lin- seed oil and resin before adding the turpentine. The best quality of linseed oil should be employed for a varnish. The proper proportions for an or- dinary oil varnish are about 10 parts by weight of resin, 5 to 25 parts of boiled linseed oil, and 15 to 25 parts of oil of turpentine. Varnishes of this character usually improve with age. The following are formulas for fixed-oil varnishes: Amber Varnish. — Eight ounces of amber, 5 ounces of boiled linseed oil, and \ pint of oil of turpentine. This varnish is very durable, but a slow dryer. Or, for larger quantities, 6 pounds of amber, 2 gallons of hot linseed oil, and 4 gallons of oil of turpentine. Melt the amber, add the linseed oil hot, and boil until stringy. Cool and add the turpentine. Or amber, 16 ounces; boiled linseed oil, 10 ounces; Venetian turpentine or gum lac, 2 -ounces; oil of turpentine, 15 or 16 ounces. Or melt 4 pounds of resin and J pound of beeswax. Add 1 gallon of boiled oil at a high temperature. Mix and boil until stringy. Cool and add 2 quarts of turpentine. Or melt \\ pounds of rosin, add 1 pound of Venetian turpentine, then stir in 1 gallon of boiled linseed oil at high temperature. Boil until stringy; cool and thin with 1 quart of turpentine. The above are ordinary oil varnishes suitable for common work. Copal Varnish. — Fuse 3 ounces of African copal and add 4 ounces of 368 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES best boiled linseed oil at a high tem- perature. Boil until stringy, cool, and add 8 ounces of oil of turpentine. This is a transparent body varnish, hard, clear, and durable. Or melt 4 ounces of copal, and add at a high temperature 2 ounces of boiled linseed oil. Stir and thin with 3J ounces of turpentine. To make a white copal varnish, color the above with the finest white lead. Anime Varnishes. — Melt 4 pounds of gum anime and add at a high tem- perature IJ gallons of boiled linseed oil. Boil until stringy. Stir in 3 ounces of camphor and 2 ounces of litharge, cool, and thin with 2| gal- lons of oil of turpentine. This is a good carriage or furniture varnish. Or, for a finer grade of work, melt 4 pounds of gum anime; add at a high temperature IJ gallons of clari- fied linseed oil, 3 ounces of litharge, 3 ounces of dry acetate of lead, and 35 gallons of turpentine. Lac Varnishes. — Dissolve 1 pound of shellac, and add at a high temper- ature 2 quarts of boiled linseed oil. Stir in i pound of red lead, J pound of litharge, and 2 ounces of umber. Boil until stringy. This dries rapid- ly, and has a high gloss. Waterproof Varnish. — Dissolve 1 pound of flowers of sulphur in 1 gal- lon of boiled linseed oil. Boil and stir until they form a perfect emul- sion. This is a good waterproof var- nish for woven goods. Or cut India rubber in small pieces, put them in a glass bottle with benzine, and let stand four or five days, shaking frequently. Strain through cotton to remove the ben- zine, and thin with boiled linseed oil or turpentine. Flexible or Balloon Varnish. — Cut 1 poimd of India rubber into fine pieces and boil in 1 pound of linseed oil until dissolved. Cool, and add 1 pound of turpentine. Simmer with gentle heat and strain through cheese cloth. Dissolve 8 ounces of birdlime in 8 ounces of boiled linseed oil. Boil un- til the birdlime ceases to crackle, Add 12 ounces of boiled oil and 3 ounces of litharge, and boil until it becomes stringy. Cool, and add 12 ounces of turpentine. Apply while warm. Or dissolve i ounce of India rub- ber cut fine in 1 pound of mineral naphtha. Cover the vessel and melt with gentle heat until it dissolves. Strain through cheese cloth. Or cut fine 4 ounce of India rub- ber, pour over this 1 pint of boiled linseed oil, and dissolve with gen- tle heat, stirring constantly. Strain through cheese cloth. Or raise to a boil 2 quarts of boiled linseed oil, stirring in IJ ounces of white copperas, IJ ounces of sugar of lead, and 4 ounces of litharge. Boil until stringy. Allow to cool slowly and pour off the clear liquid. Or take 1 gallon of boiled linseed oil, and dissolve 4 ounces of pure asphaltum with gentle heat in a small amount of the oil. Grind 3 ounces of burnt umber in a little of the oil. Add the remainder of the oil, boil until stringy, cool, and thin with oil of turpentine. Black Asphalt Varnish for Iron- work. — Dissolve 3 pounds of asphalt in 4 pounds of boiled linseed oil. Re- move from the fire and thin with 15 to 18 pounds of oil of turpentine. Or boil 22J pounds of foreign asphalt in 3 gallons of linseed oil. Add 3 pounds of litharge. Boil un- til stringy, then add 4 pounds of melted gum amber and 1 gallon of linseed oil. Bring to a boil, remove from the fire, and thin with 22 gal- lons of turpentine. India rubber or gutta percha may be added to any common oil varnish if desired to impart additional flexi- bility. Or melt 12 pounds of asphafcum, add 2J gallons of boiled linseed oil, 2J pounds of red lead, 2J pounds of litharge, and 1 pound of dry and pow- dered white copperas. Boil 3 hours, add 2| pounds of dark gum amber melted and § gallon of hot linseed oil. Boil 3 hours. To test, take out a few drops and allow to cool on a glass plate, When boiled sufficiently. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 369 it may be rolled into pills. Remove from the fire and thin with 10 gal- lons of oil of turpentine. This is suitable for varnishing the best grades of ironwork. Or to i pint of boiled" linseed oil add 6 ounces of powdered asphaltum. Bring to a boil and stir in 1 pound of melted amber. Cool, and add 1 pint of oil of turpentine. Or dissolve 8 ounces of asphaltum and 4 ounces of rosin in 1 pint of oil of turpentine. Rub up 2 ounces of lampblack to a paste with boiled lin- seed oil and stir into the mixture. The above are suitable for iron fences or hinges exposed to the weather, or for iron shovels, tools, coal scuttles, and other sheet-iron or cast-iron sur- faces to protect them from rust and to give them a good appearance. Or melt 4 pounds of asphalt and add 1 quart of boiled linseed oil and 1 gallon of oil of turpentine. This is suitable for grates, and other rough cast-iron surfaces. Or melt 21 pounds of asphaltum and add 1 gallon of turpentine. When cool, add 1 pint of copal varnish and 1 pint of boiled linseed oil. This is black varnish for wood or canvas. SFIBIT OB LAC VABNISHES These differ from fixed-oil varnish- es in being true solutions of various resins, chiefly anime, mastic, shellac, and sandarac, in spirituous solvents, usually alcohol and wood spirit, or acetone, benzine, etc. Sandarac is used to impart hard- ness, mastic to give a gloss. Venetian turpentine is frequently added to san- darac, or a little concentrated am- monia is often added to overcome the tendency of varnish to chill or crack and give a rough surface. "Venetian turpentine is used with sandarac to prevent excessive brittleness. To make spirit varnishes, first pul- verize the resins and mix them with sand or broken glass to prevent their forming into lumps. Put them in a double boiler, cover with the spirit, which should be not less than 95 per cent pure, and dissolve wfth gentle heat. Afterwards filter, first through silk, then through filter paper. Shellac Varnishes. — Shellac will be more soluble if powdered and ex- posed to the air as long as possible before using. To make cheap shel- lac, dissolve 1 ounce of borax in 8 ounces of boiling water. Add 5 ounces of pulverized shellac, stir, and boil until dissolved. If too thin, continue to boil until sufficient water has evap- orated, or if too thick, thin with boil- ing water. This solution is equal to spirit varnishes for many purposes, and is much cheaper. When dry, weather has no effect upon it. Hence it is useful to dissolve water colors for calcimining and for other pur- poses. Or India ink rubbed up in this solution may be used where an acid- proof labeling ink is required. It is not affected by the fumes of acids. Or put in a glass fruit jar 8 ounces of water, 3 ounces of white shellac, and 1 ounce of saf ammoniac, and let stand over night. Place the fruit jar in a saucepan containing hot water, and boil, stirring constantly until the shellac is dissolved. Or boil in an earthen vessel. This solution may be used as a sub- stitute for spirit varnish, is much cheaper, and has the advantage of be- ing waterproof. Diluted with 10 or 13 parts of water and applied by means of a brush, it may be used for waterproofing cloth or making oil- cloth. It may also be used for stain- ing and waterproofing wood, as a stain paint or a varnish, according to consistency, and may be mixed with any water-color or oil pigments to produce any color that may be de- sired. The above are not true spirit var- nishes, but may be treated most con- veniently in this place. Or dissolve 10 ounces of white shel- lac in 1 quart of 95 per cent alcohol. This may be done without heat by pouring the alcohol over the shellac and letting it stand in a warm place until dissolved. Keep in a covered 370 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES fruit jar* or corked bottle to prevent evaporation. This is a good trans- parent varnish for furniture, wood- work, tools, and most other purposes. It dries rapidly. It is especially use- ful to coat woodwork that is exposed to the weather, as farming tools and other utensils that are frequently used or left out of doors. It is a very con- venient and serviceable all-round var- nish. Or color the above by the addition of lampblack or asphaltimi. This gives a glossy black varnish. Or, to give a thicker coat of var- nish, take 1 quart of 95 per cent £d- cohol, and add all the gum shellac it will cut. Strain out the excess through silk and filter paper. Add 2 ounces of Venetian turpentine. This gives a transparent gloss. Or color with aniline dyes as de- sired. Or, to make a hard shellac varnish for special purposes, as gunstocks and the like, dissolve 10 ounces of shellac, 1 ounce of sandarac, and 1 dram of Venetian turpentine in 1 gallon of 95 per cent alcohol. Put in a glass fruit jar or earthenware vessel, cover tight- ly, and let stand in a warm place until dissolved. Apply two or three coats, and finish, if desired, with one or two coats of still harder varnish, prepared as follows: Dissolve 1 ounce of shellac, i ounce of sandarac, and J ounce of Venetian turpentine in 3 quarts of alcohol. This gives a high polish and requires less rubbing. To Color Shellac. — Add 1 ounce of aniline dye to 1 pint of shellac var- nish. For mahogany, use aniline cardinal dye. Other colors and coloring matters may be added freely to produce any colors desired. Or mix equal weights of gum shel- lac and alcohol, and heat until the mixture becomes quite thick. Add any desired amount of aniline dyes dissolved in alcohol, and thin with about' one fifth by weight of castor oU. lacquers. — Colored spirit varnishes are used to give a tinge of gold to articles made of brass or other base metals. The bases of these lacquers is a varnish consisting of 3 parts of seed-lac and 4 parts of sandarac or elemi dissolved in 40 parts of alcohol. To this, tinctures of annotto, coralline, dragon's blood, gamboge, gummigutta, Martius yellow, picric acid, or tur- meric are added separately to give the required color. To make a good gold lacquer for brass work, dissolve 3 ounces of seed- lac, 1 oimce of turmeric, and J ounce of dragon's blood in 1 pint of alco- hol. Put the solution in a glass fruit jar and let stand in a warm place, shaking frequently until dissolved. Filter through silk and filter paper. Or, if deep gold is desired, dis- solve J pound of ground turmeric, | ounce of gamboge, If pounds of san- darac, and 6 oimces of sheUac in 1 gallon of 95 per cent alcohol. Strain through silk and filter paper and add i pint of turpentine varnish. Or, for deep red, dissolve IJ pounds of annotto, J pound of dragon's blood, and If pounds of gum sandarac in 1 gallon of alcohol. Strain, filter, and add 1 pint of turpentine varnish. Or, for pale gold, dissolve J ounce of gamboge, IJ ounces of cape aloes, and i pound of white shellac in 1 gal- lon of alcohol. Copal Varnishes. — Copal dissolved in alcohol forms a hard, durable var- nish for fine cabinetwork and similar purposes, but it is more expensive than shellac and no better for ordinary purposes. To prepare ordinary copal varnish, first melt the resin with gen- tle heat in a double boiler. Then pulverize and mix it with sand. Final- ly dissolve it in strong alcohol and strain and filter. The addition of elemi resin or solution of turpentine softens it. To make a transparent copal var- nish, put 6 ounces of melted and pul- verized copal and 6 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol in a glass bottle or fruit jar, cork it tightly, and set in a warm place imtil dissolved. Then add 4 THE FAMILY WORKROOM 371 ounces of turpentine and 1 ounce of ether. Or dissolve 1 ounce of camphor in 1 quart of alcohol. Put this in a glass bottle or fruit jar with 4 ounces of melted and pulverized copal, and set in a warm place until dissolved. Strain, filter, and dry the sediment, if any, for future use. Or dissolve 7 ounces of copal, 1 ounce of mastic, and J oimce of Vene- tian turpentine in 11 ounces of alco- hol. First dissolve the copal in a small amount of alcohol with J ounce of camphor. Add the mastic and tur- pentine and thin with the remainder of the alcohol. This is a good varnish for articles frequently handled. Colored Copal Varnish. — On ac- count of its superior hardness, copal varnish is frequently used as a vehicle for various coloring matters for toys, picture frames, bric-a-brac, articles of furniture, and the like. Experiments may be made with any desired colors, but the following suggestions may be helpful: For flaxen gray, mix ceruse with an equal quantity of English red or car- minated lake. Add a little Prussian blue. For yellow, use yellow oxide of lead or Naples or MontpeUier. Mix in a glass vessel, and do not let it come in contact with iron or steel. Or use gummigutta, yeUow ocher, or Dutch pink. For violet, vermilion, blue, and white. For purple, cochineal, carmine, and carminated lakes with ceruse. Or Prussian blue and vermilion. For green, a mixture of verdigris with ceruse, white lead, or Spanish white. Or a mixture of yeUow and blue. For red, red oxide of lead, cinna- bar, vermilion, red ocher, or Prussian red. These coloring matters may be used ground with boiled oil or in the form of powders, water colors, or an- iline dyes. Sandarac Varnishes. — Sandarac or lac varnishes containing a considerable a!mount of sandarac are very hard and brittle; hence they are liable to crack and their use is limited. They may be softened by the addition of gum elemi or Venetian turpentine. To make a hard white sandarac varnish, dissolve IJ pounds of sandarac in 1 quart of 95 per cent alcohol. Add J pint of pale turpentine varnish. Mix and let stand 24 hours. Or dissolve 3 ounces of sandarac, 1 ounce of shellac, and 2 ounces of resin in 16 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol. Add 3 ounces of oil of turpentine. VOLATILE-OIL VASNISHES These are solutions of various res- ins, principally gum copal, Canada balsam, resin, and others in oil of turpentine; are more durable and less brittle than spirit varnishes, but re- quire more time in drying. Like fixed-oil varnishes, they im- prove with age, whereas spirit var- nishes deteriorate in quality. The res- ins may usually be dissolved in oil of turpentine without being previously melted. Seven pounds of oil of tur- pentine will usually dissolve about 5 pounds of resin. To make ordinary turpentine var- nish, dissolve with gentle heat i pound of powdered white resin in 1 pint of turpentine. Or other proportions rec- ommended range from 3 to 5 pounds of resin in 1 gallon of turpentine. Canada Balsam Varnish with Tur- pentine. — Mix equal parts of pure Canada balsam and pale oil of turpen- tine. Dissolve with gentle heat and shake occasionally. Let stand two or three days, strain, and filter. This varnish improves with age. Copal Varnish with Turpentine. — Dissolve 3 ounces of copal in 1 poimd of oil of turpentine. Ether Varnishes. — These are a solu- tion of various resins in ether. They are very little used. To make an ethereal copal varnish, dissolve 5 ounces of copal and 3 ounces of ether. This is suitable for repair- ing jewelry, as, for example, broken enamel, for the setting of gems, and the like. It may be applied to wood 372 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES by first rubbing the wood with a cloth moistened in oil of turpentine, wiping with a linen cloth, and then applying the varnish. This prevents the ether from evaporating too rapidly. To make ethereal amber varnish, dissolve 4 grains of amber in 1 ounce of chloroform. Use this for varnish- ing photographs, maps, etc. SPECIAL VABmSHES Hiscellaneous Varnishes. — In addi- tion to the above, various miscellane- ous varnishes are in use for different purposes, among which may be men- tioned the following: Map Varnish. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gutta percha in 5 ounces of oil of tur- pentine. Add 8 ounces of hot linseed oil. Varnish for Oil Paintings. — Melt with gentle heat 1 pound of white wax. Add 1 pint of warm 95 per cent alcohol. Mix and pour on a cold porphyry slab. Grind to a smooth paste with a muller. Add sufficient water and beat up to the consistency of milk with an egg beater. Strain through cheese cloth. Spread this over the paint and allow it to dry. After- wards go over it with a warm (not hot) iron to melt and diffuse it equally. Zinc Varnish. — Dissolve equal parts of potassium chloride and copper sul- phate in hot water. Immerse the zinc ten seconds. Dry, wash, and polish. This forms a solution of copper oxide having an indigo-blue color. Varnish to Prevent Rust. — Melt 4 ounces of tallow and 2 ounces of ros- in, strain through cheese cloth while hot, and stir in 1 ounce of finely pul- verized black lead. Apply to tools and other metals with a brush. Or melt paraflin and apply with a brush. Or dissolve 4 ounces of mastic, 2 ounces of camphor, 6 ounces of sanda- rac, and 3 ounces of elemi in alcohol, and apply to fine tools and other metallic surfaces. This improves the appearance of the articles, and may be used on hardware exposed for sale. Or dissolve 9 ounces of rosin, 3 ounces of sandarac, and 2 ounces of shellac in 3 ounces of alcohol. When cool add 2 ounces of turpentine. Strain, filter, and bottle for use. Varnish from Sealing Wax. — Dis- solve 1 ounce of any color of sealing wax in 4 ounces of alcohol, and apply while warm with a soft bristle brush. The principal ingredient of sealing wax is shellac. Varnish for Window Glass. — Mix J ounce of gum tragacanth finely pow- dered with the whites of 2 eggs, and beat thoroughly with an egg beater. Let stand 24 hours and apply to window panes with a soft brush. When dry, this effectually prevents the sun's rays from passing through the glass. Varnish for Leather. — Dissolve in water 3 ounces of gum arable. Dis- solve separately in brandy 3 ounces of isinglass. Mix and apply. Tar Varnish. — Melt together 2 gal- lons of tar and 1 pound of tallow. Add 7 pounds of ocher ground in lin- seed oil. Thin with 6 pounds of oil of turpentine. Mix well. This is suitable for aU rough outdoor work, protecting bulkheads, drains, water troughs, leaders, and woodwork in all localities exposed to much damp- ness. Stone Varnish. — Melt 10 pounds of rosin, add 1 pound of linseed oil, and stir in 10 pounds of prepared chalk. Mix thoroughly. Add 4 ounces of native oxide of copper and 4 ounces of sulphuric acid. Mix well and ap- ply hot with a brush. When dry, this is practically fireproof and is hard as stone. Asphaltum Varnish. — Dissolve with gentle heat 2J pounds of pulverized asphaltum in 1 gallon of spirits of turpentine. This is a suitable varnish for all iron work, stoves, stovepipes, grates, coal scuttles, fly screens, wire netting, exposed hinges, and other hardware, and all iron or steel ex- posed to the weather or likely to suf- fer from rust. Or to the above add 1 pint copal spirit varnish, and J pint boiled lin- THE FAMILY WORKROOM 373 seed oil. This is suitable for wood, iron, or leather. Varnish for Paintings, Drawings, and Prints. — A number of special varnishes, including spirit or lac var- nishes containing gum sandarac, mas- tic, and the like, turpentine varnishes with Canada balsam, and various special mixtures, are recommended for coating oil paintings, drawings, prints, and the lilte, to protect them from the effects of exposure. Mastic Varnish. — To make the iin- est quality of pure varnish for oil paints and similar fine work, crush the mastic on a stone or marble with a knife blade or ivory paper cutter, and eject the soft part or tears. Put the hard grains into a glass bottle with rectified spirits of turpentine, and shake the bottle until the mastic dissolves without heat. Strain through a piece of muslin, cork the bottle, and stand it in direct sunlight for several weeks. A gummy sediment like muci- lage wiU form in the bottom of the bottle. Reject this, pouring off only the clear liquor for use. To each ounce of this liquor add 2 ounces of alcohol, and thin, if desired, with rec- tified turpentine. Or, for larger quantities, mix 2J pounds of mastic with 1 pound of clean crushed glass and 1 gallon of rectified spirits of turpentine. Put the whole in a large jug or glass bot- tle, cork tightly, and shake or agi- tate the bottle until the gum is dis- solved. Let the whole stand several months, the longer the better. Pour off the clear liquor from the top for use. Mastic and Sandarac Varnish. — Mix equal quantities of gum sandarac and gum mastic dissolved in alcohol. Let stand forty-eight hours to settle, and strain through linen. Apply by means of a camel's-hair brush. Or dissolve i ounce of gum cam- phor in 3 pints of 95 per cent alco- hol, and add S ounces of sandarac and 2 ounces of mastic. Cork tightly in a glass bottle, shake until dissolved, and let stand 48 hours or more in a warm place to settle. Pour off the clear liquor. This is suitable for drawings, prints, dry plants or flow- ers, and similar fine work. Balsam Varnish. — Size colored de- signs, as water colors, maps, litho- graphs, and colored prints, with one or more coats of a solution of gum arable or isinglass in water, or of boiled rice or wheat starch, and then apply a varnish composed of 2 parts of spirits of turpentine and 1 part of Canada balsam, or equal parts of each. Apply by means of a flat cam- el's-hair brush. Or dissolve 3 ounces of Canada bal- sam, 3 ounces of white rosin, and 1 part of oil of turpentine. Or, for a cheaper article, 6 ounces of pale-white rosin dissolved in 1 pint of turpentine. Or dissolve 3 ounces of Canada bal- sam in J pint of turpentine, and add 3 ounces of pale copal varnish. Shellac"" Varnish. — Heat in a suit- able saucepan S ounces of clean ani- mal charcoal, pour over this while warm 1 pint of 95 per cent alcohol, add 2J ounces of pale shellac, and boil carefully over a slow fire, cover- ing loosely to prevent too much evap- oration. Test the solution by filtering a sam- ple, and if not colorless add a little more charcoal. When the liquor is colorless, strain through a piece of white silk and filter with filter paper. This gives a perfectly colorless liquor which dries quickly and does not chill or bloom. Apply by means of a cam- el's-hair brush at a temperature of at least 60° F. in an atmosphere free from dust. This is one of the best and purest of all varnishes, is com- monly used by bookbinders, and may be applied to the finest oil paintings after the oil is thoroughly dried and hard, to drawings, prints, gilding, and all ornaments likely to be injured by damp, as it resists damp and pre- vents mildew. Bookbinder's Varnish. — Dissolve in 1 quart of alcohol 2 ounces of shellac, j ounce of benzoin, and i ounce of mastic. Shake until dissolved and add J ounce of oil of lavender. 374 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Isinglass Size. — Put 4 ounces of isinglass shavings in a glass bottle with an equal quantity of water, and let stand 24 hours or more to soften. Add 1 pint of 95 per cent alcohol, and in this dissolve the isinglass in a double boiler with gentle heat. Cork the bottle to prevent evaporation, but not tightly enough to cause explosion. Apply two or three coats, letting each coat dry before the next is applied, and following with any of the above print varnishes. Parchment Varnish. — Put white parchment cuttings with water in a glass or earthenware vessel, and boil in a double boiler until a clear jell or size is produced. Strain through cheese cloth. Apply one or more coats by means of a camel's-hair brush. Varnish for Musical Instruments. — Dissolve together with gentle heat 2 ounces of gum sandaric, 1 ounce of seed-lac, J ounce of mastic, i ounce of benjamin in tears, and 1 ounce of Venetian turpentine in 16 ounces of pure alcohol. Stir in 2 ounces of pounded glass. Or dissolve in 1 quart of 95 per cent alcohol 3 ounces of sandarac, IJ ounces of mastic, and 1 gill of tur- pentine varnish. Mix together in a glass bottle and shake until dissolved. This may be thinned with additional turpentine varnish if desired. SEALIIirG WAX Sealing wax is made of shellac, with the addition of turpentine to prevent brlttleness and to make it melt even- ly, and of earthy matters to increase the weight and to prevent its melting too quickly. Pale or bleached shellac is used for light-colored sealing wax, but common shellac is equally suit- able for darker colors. Sealing wax is frequently adulterated with com- mon rosin, beeswax, stearin, and simi- lar materials. The addition of too much rosin or turpentine causes the wax to run in thin drops when melt- ed. The addition of camphor or al- cohol causes sealing wax to melt eas- ily. The sealing wax of the Middle Ages consisted of beeswax mixed with turpentine and various coloring mat- ters. The finest qualities of sealing wax are frequently perfumed with balsam of Peru, storax, or various es- sential oils and essences. Colored Sealing Wax. — Various colors as desired may be imparted to sealing wax by the addition of cobalt blue, chrome yellow, bone black, ver- milion, and other pigments such as are used in paints. These are added in powdered form to the melted wax. To Make Best Red Sealing Wax.— Melt together with gentle heat 5 ounces of shellac, IJ ounces of tur- pentine, and 31 ounces of vermilion. Or 3 ounces of shellac, 4 ounces of turpentine, IJ ounces of chalk or mag- nesia, 1 ounce of gypsum or zinc white, and | ounce of vermilion. Or 3J ounces of shellac, 3i ounces of turpentine, 1 ounce of chalk or magnesia, i ounce of sulphate of bary- ta, and IJ ounces of vermilion. Use Venetian turpentine preferably in these three. Melt together, stirring constantly, and when all the ingredi- ents are fully incorporated let the mass cool, and while still soft roU it on a. marble or other smooth slab and shape it into sticks, or pour it while fluid into suitable brass molds. An inferior sealing wax may be made by substituting red oxide of iron in the place of vermilion, and common rosin or New Zealand rosin in place of shellac. Or dissolve with gentle heat J ounce of gum camphor in 2 ounces of alco- hol, taking care that the alcohol does not take fire. Add 8 ounces of gum shellac and stir until fully dissolved. Add 4 ounces of Venetian turpen- tine and sift in through a hair or oth- er sieve 2§ ounces of vermilion, stir- ring constantly to avoid lumps. When the whole mass is mixed smoothly to- gether, pour it into suitable molds, or let cool until of the consistency of soft wax. Roll to proper thickness and cut out with a suitable die like a biscuit cutter. Or weigh into soft balls of equal size, roll to the desired length, and flatten by pressure. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 375 For' commercial use, the sticks of sealing wax are polished by being held over a charcoal fire in an iron dish, and while hot rubbed with mut- ton suet or tallow and polished with chamois. Or, for a larger quantity, melt to- gether with gentle heat 2 pounds of shellac, 12 ounces of Venetian tur- pentine, IJ pounds ,of fine cinnabar, and 2 ounces of Venetian red. Other proportions recommended for fine sealing wax are: Shellac, 6 parts; Venetian turpen- tine, 2 parts ; coloring matter, 3 parts. Shellac, 3 parts; Venetian turpen- tine, IJ parts; vermilion, 3i parts. For a cheaper grade of red sealing wax, melt together with gentle heat 2 ounces of rosin and 2 ounces of shel- lac; stir in IJ ounces of Venetian tur- pentine; sift and stir in IJ ounces of red lead. Or melt together with gentle heat shellac, 2 ounces; yellow rosin, 1 ounce; Venetian turpentine, 1 ounce; vermilion, 3 ounces. Or, for a stUl cheaper grade, sub- stitute red oxide of iron in place of vermilion. Yellow Sealing Wax. — Melt to- gether with gentle heat 2 ounces of shellac, 2 ounces of yellow rosin, and 1 ounce of chrome yellow. Or 4 ounces of pale shellac, IJ ounces of yellow rosin, | ounce of Venetian turpentine, and 1 oimce of sulphuret of arsenic. Gold Sealing Wax. — Melt together bleached shellac, 1 ounce; Venetian turpentine, J ounce. Stir in gold-col- ored talc to color. Or bleached shellac, 3 ounces ; Vene- tian turpentine, 1 ounce; Dutch leaf ground to powder or enough gold- colored mica spangles to color. Blue Sealing Wax. — Melt together shellac, 2 ounces; yellow rosin, 2 ounces; smalts, 1 ounce. Or, for a light blue, verditer in place of smalts. Or a mixture of equal- parts of smalts and verditer. Or employ any of the above recipes for fine red sealing wax, including ver- milion, but substitute in place of ver- milion the same quantity of fine Prus- sian blue. Green Sealing Wax. — Melt togeth- er shellac, 2 ounces; yellow rosin, 1 ounce; verdigris, 1 ounce. Black Sealing Wax. — Follow any of the above recipes, but substitute finely powdered ivory black instead of other coloring matter, using only enough to give the required color. Or, for a cheaper grade, use lamp- black. Or melt together 3 ounces of black rosin, i ounce of beeswax, and 1 ounce of ivory black. Or 3 ounces of shellac, IJ ounces of Venetian turpentine, and 2 ounces of cinnabar. White Sealing Wax. — Melt togeth- er 3 ounces of white wax, 2 ounces of stearin, and 1 ounce of mucilage. Or 3 ounces of resin, 1 ounce of caustic soda, and S ounces of water. Add 4J ounces of plaster of Paris. This mixture requires upward of an hour to set, but adheres very strongly and takes a good impression. Soft Sealing Wax. — Melt together 1 ounce of yellow rosin, 4 ounces of beeswax, 1 ounce of lard, and 1 ounce of Venetian turpentine. Or 8 ounces of beeswax, 6 ounces of olive oil, and IS ounces of Venetian turpentine. Or 11 ounces of beeswax, 3 ounces of turpentine, 1 ounce of olive oil, and 5 ounces of shellac. Any color may be given to the above by the use of suitable colored pigments, as ver- milion, red lead, or red oxide of iron for red, verdigris for green, chrome for yellow, smalts or verditer for blue, and so on. Marble Sealing Wax. — Melt in two or more different vessels equal quan- tities of uncolored sealing wax, and add to each the coloring matter de- sired. Allow these to slightly cool, and stir them all together to make any desired effect. To Color Sealing Wax. — Add the coloring matter to sealing wax while in a fluid state on the fire by sifting in the pigments, in the form of a dry 376 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES powder, through a hair or other fine sieve. To avoid lumps or spots, stir constantly until they are fully incor- porated. Let the mass cool slightly before pouring into the molds, and continue stirring while it is being poured, otherwise the coloring matter will tend to settle as a sediment in the lower part of the mold or of the vessel in which it is melted. To Perfume Sealing Wax. — Add to any of the above, when the mass has become slightly cooled, but before it sets, gum benzoin, storax, balsam of Peru, or any of the fragrant essential oils or essences. If added too soon, the heat will cause the perfumes to evaporate; if not added soon enough, it will be difficult to incorporate them perfectly with the mass. OILS, LUBBICATOBS, ETC. Oils. — Oils exist ready made in nature, and may be divided into fixed oils, which are either of animal or vegetable origin, and essential or vola- tile oils, which are principally vege- table products. Fixed oils are mostly liquid at or- dinary temperatures, smooth to the touch, and on paper make a perma- nent greasy stain. Many of them have neither taste nor odor. They are not, as a rule, soluble in water, and are only slightly soluble in alcohol, but may be readily dissolved in ether. The chief characteristic of the fixed oils is their ability to unite with alkalies to form soap, setting free glycerin. The volatile oils are not capable of saponification. Fixed Vegetable Oils. — The fixed vegetable oils, including certain but- terlike fats, as palm oil, cocoa oil, and the like, are usually found in plants: in the seeds, as linseed oil; in the pulp about the seeds, as olive oil, and more rarely in roots, as in the earth al- mond. They are procured by grind- ing and pressing the oil-producing parts, and are usually found associ- ated with more or less gum and other impurities. The fixed vegetable oils are of two sorts: the drying oils, as linseed oil, which oxidize when exposed to the air, and are transformed into a hard, resinous varnish; and the fatty or nondrying oils, as olive oil, which be- come rancid and thicken when exposed to the air, but do not dry up. To Purify Vegetable Oils. — To pu- rify crude vegetable oils, pour the oil in a lead-lined vat and add 3 or 3 per cent of concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir until the mixture takes on a greenish tint. Let stand 34 hours, add about 2 per cent its volume of water, hot but not boiling, and stir vigorously until the mixture takes on a milky color. Then let stand in a warm place for a few days to settle, and pour off the clear liquor through cheese cloth or filter paper. To Prepare Drying Oils. — To im- prove the quality of drying oils, boil them with oxide of lead, binoxide of manganese, and borate or acetate of manganese. But this process gives the oil a high color. Hence, to make drying oils for colorless varnishes, prepare oleate of lead by adding oleic acid to oxide of lead or litharge, and add this to the oil when cold. Or prepare a solution of sulphate of manganese, and add borax dis' solved in water as long as a precipi' tate forms. Let this settle, turn ofl the liquor, wash the precipitate, and let it dry. This is manganese borate. Add 3 per cent of this substance to the oldest linseed oil obtainable, and mix with gentle heat in a double boil- er. Stir constantly, lifting the oil and letting it run back into the boiler, to expose it as much as possible to the air. This gives a quick-drying oil of very high color. A class of substances called dryers are added in painting to hasten the oxidation of the drying oils, but the rapidity of this process depends great- ly upon atmospheric conditions, tem- perature, and the like. 7i?ixed Animal Oils. — These are compounds of glycerin with various fatty acids. They are very similar to the nondrying vegetable oils. Many of the animal oils have a peculiar THE FAMILY WORKROOM 377 odor, which in some of the fish oils is verjr offensive. Sperm oil is found in the head of the sperm whale mixed with spermaceti. This is the most valuable of the animal oils and also the highest in price. Whale or train oil is found in the blubber of the right whale, the black- fish, and other species of whale. Vari- ous other marine animals produce oils having the same general characteris- tics, as the seal, shark, and sea calf. The menhadens are also used in large quantities for their oil. To Purify Fish Oil.— Make for this purpose a bag of any coarse cloth, as burlap or canvas, line it with flannel, and put in between the bag and the lining a layer of charcoal J inch thick. The bag should be quilted to keep the charcoal in place. Pour the oil into this filter and let it run into a lead- lined vat containing water to the depth of 5 or 6 inches, slightly acidu- lated with blue vitriol. Let stand 3 or 4 days, and draw off the oil by means of a spigot fixed slightly above the level of the water. Repeat if nec- essary. Finally filter through cloth bags without charcoal into tanks or barrels for storage. To Deodorize Putrid Fish Oil. — For each 100 pounds of oil, pulverize 1 pound of chloride of lime; rub to a stiff paste with a little cold water, and thin to the consistency of cream. Pour the oil into a lead-lined vat, stir in the chloride of lime, and let stand 3 or 4p hours, stirring frequently. Add 1 pound of sulphuric acid di- luted in 25 times its volume of water, and boll in an iron kettle on a slow fire, stirring constantly. When the mixture is perfectly liquid and falls in drops from the stirrer, return to the vat, and when the oil has separat- ed, draw off the water by means of a spigot. To Preserve Animal Oils. — Add 1 dram of powdered slippery-elm bark to each pound of oil, and heat gently over a slow fire. When the bark set- tles, strain off the fat. This gives an agreeable odor to the oil and pre- vents it fronj becoming rancid. To Restore Bancid Animal Oils. — Put the oil in a suitable kettle over a slow fire, and stir in clean lumps or grains of charcoal from which the dust has been removed by winnowing with fans. Or prepare double bags of flannel containing a layer of charcoal be- tween, and filter the oil through these. Neat's-foot Oil. — This is a coarse animal oil obtained by boiling neat's feet, tripe, etc., in water. It is very emollient and is much used to soften leather. In the commercial process the feet are heated with steam until the hair, wool, and dirt can be re- moved, and afterwards boiled until the oil is extracted. The crude oil is of a grayish color, but when clarified by iiltration is of a pale-lemon yellow. It is often adulterated. To Purify Keat's-foot Oil. — Mix with gentle heat, stirring vigorously, equal parts of neat's-foot oil and rose water. When cool, the oil will rise to the surface and may be ladled off. Repeat if necessary. The refined oil is the basis of the best grades of cold cream. Lubricants. — Lubricants are materi- als used to lessen the friction of work- ing parts of machinery. All of the animal and vegetable nondrying oils are suitable; also the mineral oils, as petroleum products; and plumbago, graphite, or black lead, which is the only solid lubricant in common use. These substances are often mixed for lubricating purposes. Sperm oil is the best of lubricants, but is too ex- pensive for ordinary use. Lard oil is cheap and good. Neat's-foot oil is also used. Olive oil, colza, and rape-seed oils are suitable. Lubricants for Heavy Pressure. — Grind black lead with 4 times its weight of lard or tallow. Add, if de- sired, 7 per cent of gum camphor. This was formerly a trade secret. Or mix puie black lead with tal- low. Or mix tallow with red or white lead, or substitute lard for tallow. Or add a portion of heavy mineral oil to any of the above. 378 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Axle Grease. — For axle grease, mix 3 pounds of tallow, 3 pounds of palm oil, i poimd of caustic soda, and 1 gallon or more of water. Melt to- gether and evaporate the water with gentle heat, but do not let the mixture boil. Or boil up together 30 ounces of palm oil with 38 ounces of tallow. Remove from the fire and stir con- stantly until it cools to a blood heat. Strain through cheese cloth into a solution of 8 ounces of soda in 1 gill of water, mixing thoroughly. This mixture is suitable for summer heat. For cold weather, use 20 ounces of tal- low to 38 ounces of palm oU. Or, for average temperatures, 20 ounces of each. Lubricator for Drills. — For iron drills, use 4 ounces of soft soap to 1 quart of boiling water. This is cheap and effective. Wood Lubricator. — ^Lubricate wood- en bearings, as pulleys and the like, with common hard yellow soap or soft soap, taking care to evaporate with gentle heat any excess of water the latter may contain. Rub window casings, bureau drawers, and the like freely with hard yellow soap slightly moistened with water. This lubricates them permanently and prevents their sticking. To Purify Lubricants. — The animal and vegetable oils of commerce, as neat's-foot oil, rape oU, and the like, often show traces of the acids used in purifying them, and these are likely to injure the works of clocks, watches, sewing machines, and other delicate machinery. Hence, to purify com- mercial oils for such uses, put them in a vessel containing a quantity of rusty iron and let stand for a few days, then strain through silk or cot- ton wool. Or pour the best olive oil into a glass bottle, and add equal parts of zinc and lead shavings. Let stand in a cool place until the oil becomes transparent. Or use lead shavings only and ex- pose the oil to the sun for several weeks. A white precipitate will be formed, and the oil will become per- fectly transparent. Strain through silk the pure liquor from the sedi- ment and bottle for use. This oil will not injure the most delicate machin- ery. Oil for Whetstones. — Use kerosene oU on whetstones, oilstones, or for mixing other abrasives. It keeps the stone in good condition, and also as- sists in the process of sharpening. To Straighten Oilstones. — An oil- stone, after having been used for some time, becomes concave and does not give a good edge. To face a worn oilstone, take a flat piece of iron or steel having a perfectly smooth face, back it with a wooden grip or handle, and rub down the face of the oilstone with a mixture of emery and powdered pumice stone in water. Finish with the finest emery or pumice and kero- sene oil. This gives with very little effort a smooth, flat face. FTTENITTIEE POLISH Holes in Pornitnre. — To fill up cracks or holes in furniture, make a thick glue size by boiling pure white glue with water to the consistency of milk or thin cream. Mix with fine sawdust from the same or similar wood to make a stiff paste. With this fill the holes and cover deep cuts and rough surfaces. When dry, thorough- ly scrape down with an edge of bro- ken glass and polish. To Color Mahogany Furniture. — Use cold-drawn linseed oil colored with alkanet root or rose pink, or a mixture of equal parts of both. Put the coloring matter in an earthen ves- sel, cover with the oil, and let stand a day or two, stirring frequently. Rub on with a soft cloth, and let stand several hours before polishing. French Polish. — This consists in rubbing shellac or other varnish on the surface of the wood with a cloth, instead of laying on a coating with a brush. The object is to get a very thin coating of varnish with a high polish and hard surface, not so liable to scratch as a thicker coat would be. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 379 French polish is most suitable for hard woods. To prepare a porous or coarse-grained wood for French pol- ish, give it a coat of clear glue size. Let dry, and smooth with very fine sandpaper, followed by a cloth mois- tened in water and dipped in fine dry pumice or rotten stone. This fills up the pores, and thus prevents a waste of time, polish, and labor. To finish with a. French polish any previous coating, all varnish should be removed and the surface given a smooth, dead finish with sandpaper, followed by a cloth moistened and dipped in fine pumice or rotten stone. To apply the varnish, moisten a small square pad made of several thicknesses of flannel sewed or quilted together, and apply the middle of the cloth to the mouth of the bottle. Thus the pad will take up a small quantity of varnish, but sufficient to cover a considerable surface. Then lay the pad on a piece of soft linen cloth, double the whole back over the edges, and close it up at the back of the pad to form a handle. Apply a little raw linseed oil with the tip of the finger to the middle, place the work in a good light, and rub quickly and light- ly over the surface with quick, light, circular strokes. Always work from the' center outward. Continue until the varnish becomes nearly dry. Mois- ten the pad again, but without the oil, and give two additional coats. Moisten the pad slightly with oil, and finish with two additional coats of varnish. Lastly, wet the inside of the linen cloth with alcohol before taking up the varnish pad, and rub over the whole surface. Polish vdth oil and alcohol, without varnish, using a clean linen cloth. To give a fine French polish, soft clean linen must be used and the atmosphere must be entirely free from dust. Use no more varnish each time than can be rubbed to a high polish, and continue rubbing un- til the rag seems dry. To Prepare French Polish. — Mix 4 ounces of shellac, 1 ounce of gum arable, and i ounce of gum copal. Bruise and mix the gums with 3 ounces of powdered glass. Cover them with 1 pint of alcohol and cork tight- ly. Let stand in a warm place, shak- ing frequently until dissolved. Strain through silk or muslin. Or dissolve 1 ounce of gum shellac and i ounce of gum sandarac in 1 pint of alcohol. Or dissolve 5J ounces of shellac in 1 pint of naphtha. Or mix 1 ounce of pale shellac with 3 drams of gum benzoin, and cover with 4 ounces of wood naphtha. Cork tightly and let stand in a warm place, shaking frequently until dissolved. Or mix 1 pound of shellac with 1 quart of wood naphtha. Or shellac, 8 ounces; mastic, J ounce; sandarac, J ounce; copal var- nish, i gill; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix, cork tightly, and let stand until dis- solved. Pour off the clear liquor. To apply any of the above, moisten a pad of cotton wool with the polish by laying it on the mouth of the bot- tle and inverting the bottle. Cover with a linen rag, apply a drop of cold linseed oil with the finger to the cen- ter of the rag to keep it from stick- ing, and rub with light, firm strokes and uniform pressure in circles, work- ing from the center. Finish with a few drops of alcohol or turpentine on a clean linen rag. To Color French Polish. — Mix the coloring matter with the polish and let stand two or three days, stirring frequently, until all is fully incor- porated. For red, use dragon's blood, alkanet root, or red sanderswood. For yellow, turmeric root or gum gamboge. For brown, seed-lac or brown shellac. Or dip the pad of cotton wool used as a rubber in the color each time it is moistened with the polish. Then cover the rubber with a linen cloth, apply a drop of cold-drawn linseed oil, and polish. Use the ordinary col- oring matters, as dragon's blood for red, chrome for yellow, ultramarine or indigo for blue, and ivory black or lampblack for black. To Grain French Polish. — To grain any color with French polish, move S80 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES the rubber when applying the color in irregular patterns. Streak, line, or mark the wood, according to taste. When dry, apply a. coating of clear polish and finish as usual. To Finish French Folish. — Dissolve 4 drams of shellac and 4 drams of gum benzoin in 1 pint of 95 per cent alcohol by corking tightly in a glass bottle and shaking occasionally until dissolved. Let cool and add 4 tea- spoonfuls of white poppy oil. Shake well before using. Use for final coats to give an extra high finish. To Polish Varnished Furniture. — First apply finely powdered pumice stone with a piece of flannel mois- tened with water. Rub the varnished surface with light, uniform strokes, working from the center with a cir- cular motion. Follow with finely pow- dered tripoli, using a woolen cloth or chamois moistened with olive oil. Care must be taken not to use more strength than is necessary to give a smooth surface. Wipe off the tripoli with a soft cloth, let dry, and apply whiting with the palm of the hand. To Wax Furniture. — Melt with gen- tle heat 2 ounces each of white wax and yellow wax, and add 4 ounces of best rectified turpentine. Remove from the fire and stir until cold. This gives a thin coat, as the oil penetrates the pores of the wood, brings out the grain and color, and causes the wax to adhere. When polished, it gives a luster equal to varnish. Polishing. — To polish furniture or cabinetwork in general, work down the surface with sandpaper, smooth with glass paper, and polish with rot- ten stone, putty powder, and tripoli in the order mentioned. Apply pumice stone with a cloth moistened with water, and tripoli with a cloth mois- tened with olive oil or boiled linseed oil. Wood Filler. — To fill the pores and other rough places as a foundation for varnish or French polish, apply, for cheap work, a thin glue size. Or, for a better grade, apply a thin coat of boiled linseed oil, sprinkle the surface with dry whiting, and rub it in with the palm of the hand, or a short, stiff paint brush. After filling the wood, let dry, give a coating of French pol- ish or varnish, and rub down with very fine glass paper. This gives a foundation on which to lay the var- nish or final coats of polish. Thus the whiting is absorbed by the oil, and the pores of the wood are filled with putty, which will last indefinitely and not be affected by damp air or water. Or, for the best grades, mix plaster of Paris with whiting, and apply with a brush. Follow with a coating of tallow, and color with any desired coloring matter. Or mix the whiting, tallow, and col- oring matter together, and rub them into the work. Or mix 1 gallon of plaster of Paris with J pint of flour, J ounce of pow- dered pumice stone, J ounce of pre- pared chalk, 1 quart of boiled lin- seed oil, and J gill of japan dryer. One coat of varnish on such a foun- dation will give a better and more durable finish than three coats laid directly on the surface of the wood, as in the latter case the varnish en- ters the pores of the wood and does not dry smoothly. To Color Wood Filler. — For black walnut, mix burnt umber with whit- ing; for cherry, Venetian red; for beech or maple, just a suspicion of Venetian red. Stir in just enough coloring matter to imitate the natural colors of the wood. Or, if tallow is used, it may be col- ored with dragon's blood, gum gam- boge, or otherwise if desired. Fix circular articles in a lathe, and apply the filler with the hands or with a piece of velveteen or other stiff cloth. To Polish Furniture. — Substances recommended for polishing furniture are kerosene, turpentine, olive oil, lin- seed oil, and paraffin oil, beeswax, white wax, castile soap, gum copal, gum arable, shellac, and various com- binations of these and similar sub- stances. To keep furniture at a high polish, go over it once a week on cleaning THE FAMILY WORKROOM 381 day with a, clean cloth moistened in clear turpentine. This keeps the paint soft so that it will not crack, and it is not sticky after it has been pol- ished. Or use equal quantities of turpen- tine and linseed oil, or equal quanti- ties of turpentine, linseed oil, and vin- egar. To improve the appearance of lin- seed oil, add 1 or 3 ounces of alkanet root to 1 pint of oil, boil gently, and strain through cheese cloth. Or mix equal quantities of linseed oil and turpentine, and to each pint of the mixture add 1 teaspoonful of ammonia. Or dissolve 1 ounce of hard white soap in J pint of water, and add 6 ounces of white wax dissolved in J pint of turpentine. Dissolve aU with gentle heat, mix, and bottle for use. Or melt J ounce of alkanet root with 8 ounces of beeswax, and simmer with gentle heat. Strain through cheese cloth and add 4 ounces each of linseed oil and spirits of turpentine. Or melt 4 ounces of beeswax with gentle heat, and add while warm 8 ounces of spirits of turpentine. Stir until the mixture cools. Or dissolve 1 ounce of beeswax and i ounce of castile soap in 1 pint of turpentine. Put in a quart bottle and let stand for a day or two, shaking occasionally. Fill the bottle with water, shake, and let stand for an- other day, when it should be of the consistency of cream. Apply with a flannel cloth or damp chamois. Or dissolve J ounce each of pulver- ized rosin and gum shellac in 1 pint of pure alcohol. Add 1 pint of lin- seed oil, mix, and apply with a soft brush, a. sponge, or a piece of flannel. Polish with moistened chamois or a bunch of tissue paper or soft news- paper. Or add 1 pint of spirits of turpen- tine to the above. Or dissolve 2 ounces of gum shellac in 1 pint of alcohol. Add 1 pint of linseed oil and ^ pint of spirits of turpentine. Mix and add 3 ounces of ammonia water and 2 ounces of sul- phuric ether. Shake before using. Apply with a brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Or mix equal quantities of gum shellac, kerosene, linseed oil, and tur- pentine. Shake before using, and ap- ply with a sponge or brush. After- wards polish. Or dissolve in 1 pint of alcohol i ounce each of gum copal, gum arabic, and shellac. Apply with a sponge or brush. This is known as French polish. Or paint the surface with a liberal application of olive oil, and let stand to soften the varnish. Then follow with a solution of 3 ounces of gum arabic dissolved in 1 pint of alcohol. Apply while warm. This is known as Italian polish. Or mix 1 pound of linseed oil, 3 ounces of wax, 4 ounces of shellac varnish, and 1 ounce of alkanet root to color. Dissolve with gentle heat and stir while dissolving. Take off the fire after IS or 20 minutes, strain through cheese cloth, and add 3 ounces of turpentine, mix, and let stand a few days, stirring occasion- ally. Shake well before using. Or dissolve with gentle heat in 1 pound of boiled linseed oil 4 ounces of beeswax and 1 ounce of alkanet root. Strain through cheese rloth, and add 4 ounces of turpentine. Or mix 4 ounces each of linseed oil and vinegar, add J ounce of alcohol, J ounce of butter of antimony, and i ounce of muriatic acid. Apply with a sponge, rag, or brush, wipe dry, and polish. Shake well before using. Ap- ply this mixture to clean stained, greasy, or waxed substances. Or mix 8 ounces of linseed oil, 4 ounces of vinegar, 2 ounces of black rosin, 3 ounces of spirits of niter, 1 ounce of spirits of salts, and 3 ounces of butter of antimony. First sponge the furniture with clear water or cold tea. Apply this mixture with a sponge or cloth. Oil, polish, and let dry. Then follow with a cloth slight- ly moistened in cold vinegar. To Prepare Furniture Polish. — White wax, beeswax, gum copal, shel- lac, and other solid resinous sub- HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES stances may be cut or dissolved in turpentine, alcohol, or other spirits. This process may require several days if the ingredients are cold, but is much hastened by the use of heat, and also by pulverizing or shaving the solids as finely as possible. Hence, to prepare furniture polish contain- ing these ingredients, shave or polish them as fine as possible, and pour over them turpentine, alcohol, or other spirits as required. Use for this purpose a glass fruit jar or a wide-mouthed glass bottle. Cork tightly and set the bottle in a warm spot until the solids are dissolved. Or rest the bottle on straw or a folded cloth and put them in a sauce- pan. Fill the saucepan partly full of cold water, and bring to a boil with gentle heat. This is the best and quickest way to cut wax, gum, and other resinous substances with spirits, and also to melt glue and the like. The best results may be obtained by applying while warm furniture polish containing such substances; hence, be- fore applying, the bottle may be heat- ed by the method just given. Gum arable, on the contrary, can- not be dissolved in alcohol. Hence pulverize gum arable as fine as possi- ble, and dissolve with a little boiling water before mixing with other in- gredients. Furniture polish contain- ing gum arable gives the best results when applied warm. To Clean Furniture. — Dissolve 4 ounces of common salt in 1 quart of cold beer or vinegar. Add 1 table- spoonful of muriatic acid. Boil 16 minutes, bottle, and cork tightly. -Warm and shake well before using. First sponge the furniture with clear water. Apply this mixture with a brush or sponge and polish with any of the above kinds of polish, using a flannel cloth or damp chamois. Or dissolve in 1 quart of strong beer or vinegar 2 ounces of beeswax and 1 teaspoonful of sugar. First wash the furniture vrith clear water or cold tea. Apply this mixture with a sponge or brush. Oil, wipe dry, and polish. To Polish Wood Carving. — The carvings of furniture may be filled, cleaned, and polished by means of brushes, using a stiff brush to clean out the dust, then a soft brush dipped in suitable polish, and finally a clean dry brush with medium hard bristles to give a polish. Paste for Furniture. — For light wood, cover 8 ounces of beeswax scraped fine with 1 pint of turpen- tine, cork tightly, and let stand, shak- ing occasionally until dissolved. Or cover 3 ounces of pearleish with 1 pint of water, and bring to a boU. Stir in 3 ounces of white wax scraped fine, and simmer with gentle heat 25 minutes. Let cool, and make into a soft paste with a little hot water. Or mix 2 ounces of beeswax, 2 ounces of rectified turpentine, and 2 ounces of cold-drawn linseed oil. Or dissolve in J pint of turpentine 6 ounces of white wax. Cork tightly and let stand in a warm place until dissolved, shaking frequently. Cover 1 ounce of castile soap with 2 gills of water, bring to a boil, and mix with the wax and turpentine. This is a standard commercial article. Paste for Mahogany Furniture. — Moisten 2 ounces of beeswax shavings with turpentine, add J ounce of rosin, melt to a paste with gentle heat, and color with Venetian red. Or pour over J ounce of alkanet root 1 pint of turpentine. Let stand 48 hours. Strain through muslin. Add 4 ounces of beeswax shavings, cork tightly, and let stand, shaking occasionally until dissolved. Or mix and dissolve 4 ounces of beeswax shavings, 1 ounce of rosin, and 2 ounces of turpentine. Color with Venetian red. CHAPTER XIV THE FAMILY WORKROOM Part Three — Metal Work THE METALS ANB THEIR PROPERTIES— IRON AND STEEL-COPPER AND ITS ALLOYS, BRASS, BRONZE, ETC.— LEAD AND ITS ALLOYS —TIN AND ITS ALLOYS, SOLDER, ETC.— ZINC AND ITS ALLOYS —NICKEL AND ITS ALLOYS— ALUMINUM AND ITS ALLOYS— AN- TIMONY AND ITS ALLOYS— MERCURY AND ITS AMALGAMS- COATING METALS WITH OTHER METALS BY ELECTRICITY AND OTHERWISE— ELECTROPLATING AND ELECTROTYPING— LACQUER FOR METALS — PRECIOUS METALS — GOLD AND SILVER THE UIITALS USD THEIB weight in comparison with water, is FBOFEBTIES as follows: Uetals. — Metals are substances that Platinum in thin wire 21 .50 have a peculiar high luster, known 9°^^ J2"fR J. 11- 1 i n^i. Mercury 13.59 as metallic luster. They are very Lead 11.45 dense and, as a rule, very heavy. No BiHnuth ^9 90 light can pass through any of the Copper.....!!!!!!.!!!!!!!!! 8!96 metals except gold, which can be beat- h-on ^' 779 en so fine that a greenish light will Tin.'.'.'.'.'.'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 7!29 pass through it. In color the metals i*?t1min'y .'.'.'.'.'.! !!!!!!! ■.^-.^^"Ul are mostly white, but zinc and lead Aluminum 2.56-2.67 have a bluish, bismuth a reddish, and „, „ . ... calcium a yeUowish, color. Gold Is Fusibility - The fusing point of yellow, and copper is red. Metals metals, or the degree of temperature are approximately from five to twen- f q"''-^'! to melt them into liqmd ty times as heavy as water, except ^°^' '^ as follows: magnesia and aluminum, which are Mercury 39 . 44 lighter than water. The principal Tin.....'.'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 227! 8 qualities of the metals are maUeabil- L^IT.'!".'.'.'! !!!!!!!!!!!!! 325' ity, or the property of being flattened Zinc 412 by blows; ductility, or the property Klver""^'.'.'.'.'.'!!!!!!!!!! 1,023 of being drawn into wire ; conductiv- S°??®"' 1 '102 ity, or the property of transmitting (j^^ j^o^; !;!!!!!!!!!!!!! i;530 heat; fusibility, or the quality of be- ing melted; volatility, or the property Conductivity.— In the property of of turning into vapors; and hardness. transmitting heat, if silver be taken In all of these particulars the metals as a basis at 1,000, copper would be vary greatly, some of their important represented by 736, gold 533, tin 145, characteristics being shown by the fol- iron 119, lead 85, platinum 84, bis- lowing tables. muth 18. The Specific Gravity of metals at The handle of a solid-silver spoon a temperature of 15i° C, that is, their placed in hot tea or coffee is a well- 384 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES known illustration of the conductivity of silver. Malleability. — Gold is highly malle- able, and has been beaten into films of which 300,000 are required to make 1 inch in thickness. Silver is also very malleable, and so to a less degree are copper, tin, and platinum. Ductility. — The most ductile metals are iron, copper, platinum, silver, gold, zinc, tin, and lead, in the order named. Hardness. — Metals vary in hardness at ordinary temperatures, from mer- cury, which is a fluid, to chromium and magnesium, which are capable of scratching glass and chilled steel. There are forty-nine elements re- garded as metals, but only a few of these are useful in the arts. In addi- tion to the metals, however, are a number of mixtures of two or more metals, known as alloys. Alloys. — The alloys are mixtures or compounds of two or more metals melted together. Thus brass is an alloy of copper and zinc ; bronze is an alloy of copper and tin; pewter is an alloy of tin and lead. The metals composing alloys unite in various pro- portions, and the properties of the alloys and their application in the arts vary considerably with their com- position. In coinage, the term alloy is used to mean a baser metal mixed with gold or silver to make the combina- tion harder. British gold coin con- tains 11 parts of pure gold and 1 part of copper. United States gold coin contains in 1,000 parts of coin 900 parts of gold, the alloy being about 9 parts copper and 1 part silver. An alloy of mercury with any other metal is known as an amalgam. Alloys are not formed by the chem- ical union of their different com- ponents, but by the diifusion of one metal through the other en masse. Metals fuse at different degrees of heat, and care should be taken to melt first the metals which melt at the lowest degree of temperature, and to cover these with a flux of charcoal, ground glass, or other material to prevent the volatile metals from evap- orating before the union is effected. For instance, zinc melts at a low degree of heat, and when heated to the point at which copper melts zinc becomes volatile and passes off in fumes; therefore in making brass, which is an alloy of copper with zinc, it is necessary to first melt the zinc under a flux and add the copper slow- ly, using no more heat than is neces- sary; or to place in the crucible first the zinc, then the copper, and the flux over all. The harder metals should be finely divided in grains, shavings, or filings so that they will melt more easily. When mixing metals, it is necessary to note all changes that take place and use good judgment. Experience is better than hearsay. Amalgams. — Metals will usually combine with each other if one of them is in a state of fluidity. ^ Mer- cury, being a fluid at ordinary tem- peratures, will amalgamate with most of the other metals in the cold, but heat affects the amalgamation more quickly. To amalgamate in the cold, it is only necessary to divide in very small particles, as grains, shavings, or filings, the metal to be united with mercury. To make amalgams by heat, as is necessary with most metals, heat the mercury until it begins to simmer, and raise the grains of metal to be amalgamated to a red heat. Then add them a little at a time. Gold or silver may be amalgamated with mercury by simply stirring the two metals together with a glass rod and pouring the resulting mixture into cold water. This is the amalgam used for gilding or silvering. After being applied, it is exposed to heat to evaporate the mercury. Lead or tin may be amalgamated by melting either metal, adding an equal weight of mercury, and stirring with an iron or glass rod. Copper amalgamates with great dif- ficulty, and iron not at all; hence iron is the one metal (except platinum) which should be allowed to come in contact with mercury. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 385 IRON AND STEEL Pure iron is a silvery-white metal having a mild but brilliant luster. It is rarely seen in a pure state. Com- mercial iron and steel comprise a se- ries of alloys of iron with carbon, man- ganese,, chrome, nickel, tungsten, and other metals. These alloys have vari- ous names, depending in some cases upon the added metal, as nickel steel, and in other cases upon the process of manufacture, as pig iron, wrought iron, steel, etc. The qualities of iron vary in its different forms. The more carbon it contains, the darker it becomes. Wrought iron is in fibers and can be bent and welded. Steel and cast iron are in crystals, and are hard and brit- tle. Iron is seven or eight times as heavy as water, according to condi- tion. It transmits heat in comparison with silver about as 12 to 100. It is one of the hardest of metals, and also among the most difficult to melt, but varies from hardened steel, which is the hardest of metals, to wrought iron and pure iron, which are nearly as soft as copper. Ordinary cast iron is about three to five times as hard as copper. Iron wire -[is of ^•n inch in diameter may be drawn to a length of 49,000 feet without breaking. Pig Iron. — This is an alloy of iron with from 1.5 to 7 per cent of car- bon. It is produced in a blast fur- nace, and shaped by casting it into molds. It is brittle and much easier to melt than wrought iron or steel. This is the crude product, usually first made from the ore and worked up into other forms by various proc- esses of manufacture. Wrought Iron. — This consists of crystals of an alloy of iron with a very little carbon held together by melted cinder or silicate added in the process of manufacture. It is very difficult to melt, but before melting becomes pasty, in which condition two pieces may be welded together. It does not harden. While plastic it may be hammered or rolled to any desired shape, which it will retain on cooling. Steel. — This is a compound of iron obtained by casting in a fluid state, so as to give a malleable product. The distinguishing properties of steel are that it can be fused, welded, and hardened by tempering. It contains from .075 to 1.6 per cent of carbon. The addition of more carbon makes steel easier to melt, but harder to weld. Compounds of Iron. — Among well- known compounds of iron are cya- nides of iron with potassium, known as red and yellow prussiate of potash and Prussian blue. Also the mixture of sulphur with iron known as green vitriol or copperas, used in dyeing, in the manufacture of inks, as a deodo- rizer, etc. To Temper Iron and Steel. — The alloys of iron and steel containing .05 per cent or more of carbon are capar- ble of being hardened or tempered by heating to redness and plunging into some cooling liquid. The carbon which was formerly mixed mechanically with the iron is chemically dissolved in the iron by this process. Temper may af- terwards be withdrawn by reheating. To Caseharden Iron or Steel. — Mix in powdered form equal parts of prus- siate of potash, sal ammoniac, and saltpeter. Heat the iron to redness, roll it in this mixture, and quench it in a bath of cold water containing 2 ounces of prussiate of potash and 4 ounces of sal ammoniac to each gallon. Or dissolve in 30 gallons of water 1 bushel of salt, J pound of prussiate of potash, i pound of cyanide of pot- ash, and J pint of oil of vitriol; heat the iron to redness and quench in this mixture. To Soften Iron or Steel. — To drill hard iron or steel, dissolve 1 ounce of gum camphor in 1 pint of alcohol and add 1 pint of turpentine. Pour from a can as you would oil. Or, if the iron can be heated with- out damage, as in sled runners, heat it to a cherry red and lay on the spot to be drilled a small piece of sulphur, and let it stand until cool. This sof- tens the iron, which can then be drilled without difficulty. To Draw the Temper of Iron or Steel. — Cover the metal with tallow. 386 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES heat it slowly in a charcoal fire, and let it cool of itself. Or use clay instead of tallow. Or heat the iron to redness and cov- er it with hellebore. Or quench it in the water in which common beans have been soaked. To Temper Cast Iron. — New cast- iron stoves, kettles, flatirons, and oth- er articles should be gradually tem- pered by heating for a number of hours on a slow fire. If heated quick- ly and violently when new, they may crack, and at best they will not after- wards retain the heat equally well. To Weld Iron. — To unite two pieces of welding iron, it is only necessary to raise them both to a white heat and hammer them together to make them one. The softer the iron the easier it can be welded. Hence it as- sists in welding to draw the temper of cast iron or steel before welding. Or, to weld cast iron, mix 3 pounds of clean white sand, 1 pound of rock salt, 1 pound of fosterine, and 1 pound of pure solton. Heat the iron slowly in a charcoal fire, and while heating dip the parts to be welded in this mixture from time to time. Or melt together 1 pound of borax and 2 ounces of red oxide of iron. Let the mixture cool, pulverize it, and keep it for use in the form of dry powder. Sprinkle the parts to be welded with this powder. To weld a small piece of iron on to a large one, raise the larger piece to a white heat, heat the smaller piece to a proper welding heat, and sprinkle the parts with this mixture. The re- sult will be a good j oint with less heat than would otherwise be required. Or mix equal parts of cast-iron fil- ings and calcined borax, and melt them together in a crucible. Pulver- ize the resulting mixture, which will form a black powder. Cover the parts to be- welded with this sub- stance, heat them, and weld them with light blows on an anvil. To Solder Steel and Iron. — When welding is not convenient, steel or iron surfaces may be imited by means of solder. To solder steel or iron, use brass filings, or mix 3 parts of brass with 1 part of zinc. To make this solder, first melt the brass, add the zinc in strips, and cov- er tightly until the metals have united. Lay twigs across a vessel of water and pour the metal over these into the water to make it form long strips, or pour it into a suitable mold. Dip the surfaces to be soldered in alcohol or acid, scour and scrape them perfectly clean, and, if possible, place them in a vise, or otherwise secure them strong- ly together. Weight the parts and cover with borax. Apply the solder, and melt it in the flame of a coke fire over a hearth with bellows. Or mix equal parts of soft brass powder and borax. Apply to the parts and melt. To Solder Castings. — Clean with al- cohol or acid, scrape and scour, and apply soldering liquor to the parts. Cover with sal ammoniac, and heat until the sal ammoniac gives off fumes. Then dip the parts into pure tin melt- ed. Afterwards apply any ordinary hard solder, as brass, 2 parts; zinc, 1 part; or copper, 2 parts; tin, 1 part, and the like. To Solder Steel J^olnts. — For fine steel work, melt together under a layer of powdered charcoal 18 parts of silver, 1 part of copper, and 3 parts of brass. This melts at a low heat, has a whiter • color, and is therefore nearer the color of the steel. Or cleanse the parts by scrubbing, filing, or rubbing with alcohol or acid, and tie them together with brass wire. Repeat in such a way that when melted the brass will run into the seam. Apply to the joints and also to the wire a paste of borax and water, and hold in a bright coke fire until the brass melts and runs into the joint. This will cause a blue flame to rise, which will show that the heat is sufficient. Or mix 4 parts of dry plaster of Paris and 1 part of iron filings with water to the consistency of thick cream, and apply quickly before it sets. To Mend Ironware. — ^To mend holes THE FAMILY WORKROOM 387 in ironware, melt a little iron or ex- pansion metal In a crucible and pour it on to a pad of asbestos or thick felt protected by ashes, slightly hol- lowed in the middle to receive it. Press this against the hole so that the iron will come through on the other side, and meet it with another pad of asbestos, holding it thus until it sets. The hole will thus be permanently plugged. Or insert a rivet of copper or Swed- ish iron and hammer it gently, with or without the addition of suitable sol-" der, until it is tight. Or use for this purpose one of the brass brads sold by stationers. In- sert the prongs and open and hammer them down tight, adding, if con- venient, a little soft solder. To Temper Steel. — Heat the steel to a cherry red in a, clear smith's fire. Cover it with common salt and throw salt into the fire to purify it. Work the steel in this condition and subject it to this treatment until it is wrought nearly to its finished form. Then, in- stead of salt, mix 1 part each by weight of common salt, sulphate of copper, sal ammoniac, and sal soda with i part of saltpeter. Pulverize and mix these ingredients thoroughly. Alternately heat the steel and treat it with this mixture, and hammer it Until it is refined and wrought into its finished form. Return it to the fire, heat it to a cherry red, and plunge it into a bath as follows: In 1 gallon of rain water dissolve IJ ounces of alum, IJ ounces of sal soda, IJ ounces of sulphate of copper, 1 ounce of saltpeter, and 6 ounces of salt. The right to use the above proc- ess was purchased by the United States Government for $10,000. It is the celebrated patent of Garman and Siegfried. To Temper Steel Springs. — To tem- per cast-steel springs for traps and similar purposes, heat them in the dark until you can j ust see them turn- ing red. Then quench them in luke- warm water. The object of working in the dark is that the redness can be seen at a lower degree of heat. Low heat and warm water impart the de- sired temper. To Blue Steel.— Polish the surface of the steel and cleanse it thoroughly with lime or caustic potash. Place the articles in charcoal ashes or wood ashes in a suitable receptacle, and heat them slowly until the required color is produced. Or cover the iron plate with slaked lime and lay the articles on it. Or simply hold the articles in a clear flame, as that of burning alco- hol, or over a smith's forge, protect- ing them from soot by a steel or an iron plate, and remove from the heat when the required color is secured. Or, for a second blue more perma- nent than the first, let the steel pass from a blue to a white heat, remove from the fire, and cool, ' afterwards re- heating to blueness. Let the steel cool in both cases without quenching. To Stain Steel Blue. — Put 1 ounce of butter of antimony in a strong earthenware or glass vessel, and add slowly a mixture of 1 ounce of nitric acid with 3 ounces of muriatic acid. This process produces vigorous heat. Apply this mixture with a piece of felt to polished iron or steel, and rub with the bark of a green oak tree un- til the color is satisfactory. To Stain Steel Gray. — Mix 2 ounces of butter of antimony with 1 ounce of sulphuric acid, and add 5 drops of gallic acid. Apply with a piece of felt to polished steel. To Take Off the Blue. — Mix equal parts of muriatic acid and elixir of vitriol, immerse the articles in the mixture irntU the color changes, rinse, and dry. To Melt Steel. — To melt iron or steel as easily as lead, heat the metal to redness and touch it with a cake of brimstone. The metal will melt and drop like water. Thus holes of any desired size can be readily melted out of iron or steel by applying sul- phur, which softens the metal at the point of application. To Remove Scale from Steel. — Im- merse the metal in water slightly acid- ulated with sulphuric acid to loosen 388 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES the scale, then scour with sand soap, using a stiff wire or fiber brush. To Anneal Steel. — Heat the metal in a coke fire on a smith's hearth. Cover with sawdust, and then with ashes, and let stand until cool. Or in any suitable iron receptacle pack the articles in chips of cast iron from a lathe or planer. The articles must be protected by a layer of an inch or more of the chips all around the sides, top, and bottom, which must also be tamped down. Heat the whole, and keep at a red heat for two hours or more. Remove from the fire and let stand until cold. This process gives a very soft metal. To Toughen Steel. — Melt together 3 parts of rosin, 2 parts of tar, and 1 part of black pitch, and plunge the articles in this when hot. To Restore Burnt Steel. — Mix 4 ounces of sal ammoniac, IJ ounces of borax, IJ ounces of prussiate of pot- ash, 1 ounce of blue clay, 13 ounces of rosin, 2 ounces of water, and 2 ounces of alcohol, and simmer with gentle heat until all liquid is evaporated. Sprinkle the resulting powder on the steel when hot, and work by hammer- ing. Repeat as often as necessary. To Protect Iron and Steel from Rust. — Substances recommended for protecting iron and steel from rust are various varnishes of wax, rosin, India rubber, and asphaltum, and vari- ous fixed nondrying oils or animal fats, black lead or graphite, and paints containing white lead, zinc white, etc. Polished Iron or Steel. — To keep polished surfaces free from rust, ap- ply a mixture of equal parts of copal varnish, sweet oil, and turpentine. Or coat small articles, as knife blades, lancets, and the like, with col- lodion dissolved in alcohol. Or warm the articles until hot enough to scorch, and apply clean white wax. Continue the heat until the wax soaks into the metal. Let cool and polish with felt or velveteen. Or melt a little common rosin with equal parts of cold linseed oil and spirits of turpentine, and apply as a varnish. Or melt 1 ounce of pure India rub- ber in 16 ounces of turpentine; add 8 ounces of boiled linseed oil. Mix and bring to a boil. Apply with a brush. Remove, when required, with turpen- tine. Or apply wax dissolved in benzine. Or apply black lead mixed with olive oil. Rust-proof Paint for Steel and Iron. — Mix 20 pounds of white lead, 7 pounds of crude linseed oil, IJ pounds of boiled linseed oil, and 1 ■pound of spirits of turpentine. First rub down the work with stiff wire or bristle brushes to remove rust, and fill all openings, inequalities, etc., with red or white lead mixed with cold lin- seed oil to the consistency of putty. Apply two to four coats. Mix the last coat with a little glue size, and be- fore it dries, dust with fine dry sand. Or mix 4 parts of powdered brick dust sifted through cheese cloth with 1 part of litharge and rub up the whole, or grind to a thick paste with linseed oil. Dilute, as required, with turpentine. Rub the iron free from rust with stiff wire or bristle brushes, and apply two coats of the above with a brush. This wiU resist salt water. Or apply two or three thin coats of boiled linseed oil with or without col- oring matter. Let each coat dry thor- oughly before the next one is applied. Or mix 8J pounds of sulphur, 2i pounds of caustic potash, and 8 oimces of copper filings. Or melt together with gentle heat S pounds of tallow and 1 pound of turpentine. Melt separately 18 ounces of sulphur, SJ ounces of caustic pot- ash, and 1 ounce of copper filings. Mix the two while hot and apply as a paint to iron or steel. This mixture resists salt water and all atmospheric conditions. Iron and Zinc. — The contact of zinc with iron and steel is favorable to their preservation, as it causes a gal- vanic current to be set up which at- tacks the zinc instead of the iron. The zinc will be slightly affected, and the iron not at all. The contact of lead and some other metals, on the con- THE FAMILY WORKROOM trary, sets up a galvanic current which attacks the iron. This is one of the elements of value in galvaniz- ing iron by covering it with a coat of zinc, and for the same reason zinc white should be substituted for white lead in the composition of paints for ironwork, and zinc or brimstone should be used for setting iron posts and the like in stone foundations, or for solders on ironwork •exposed to the weather. Iron for Electrotypes.— To coat the surface of an electrotype with iron, prepare a bath by dissolving 8 ounces of sal ammoniac in 2 quarts of rain water. Add 1 pound of neutral ace- tate of iron, and boil 2 hours in an iron kettle, adding water up to 3 quarts as it evaporates. Cool, filter through cheese cloth, put in glass j ars or bottles, and cork tightly for use. Connect with the positive pole of a battery of three or more cells a per- fectly clean plate of iron of the same size as the electrotype. Connect the electrotype with the opposite pole of the battery, and fill the tank with the above solution, filtering it through cheese cloth. When the coating is satisfactory, rinse the plate in soft water containing a little borax, dry thoroughly, and with a brush apply a thin coating of boiled linseed oil. This process makes a plate almost as durable as a steel plate, having a coat of pure metallic iron and show- ing its characteristic white metallic luster. To Polish Iron. — To give iron as bright a polish as steel, prepare a bath by pulverizing and dissolving in 1 quart of hot water 1 ounce of blue vitriol, 1 ounce of borax, 1 ounce of prussiate of potash, 1 ounce of char- coal, and i pint of salt. Bring to a boil, stir in 1 gallon of linseed oil, mix thoroughly, and cool for use. Heat iron or steel to the proper temperature for tempering, and quench in this solution. The object is to case- harden iron with a bright polish. Copper Color for Iron. — ^Dissolve 1 ounce of copper filings in a mixture of 1 ounce of nitric acid and 2 ounces of muriatic acid. Apply by means of a brush or swab. COPPER AND ITS ALLOYS, BRASS, BRONZE, ETC. Copper.— Copper is a very ductile and malleable metal, melting at a point somewhat lower than gold, but higher than silver. It is the best- known conductor of electricity, weighs about nine times as much as water, is hard, elastic, tough, and of a density only less than that of iron. It is found nearly pure in various parts of the world, also in a number of ores, in small quantities in most soils, in seaweeds, and in the animal body. A compoimd of carbon with copper is sold as a pigment under the name of blue verditer, and from another com- pound of copper Brunswick green is obtained. The blue and green verdi- gris of commerce is made by the ac- tion of acetic acid on oxide of copper. The blue vitriol used in dyeing is sul- phate of copper. Copper is used for ship sheathing and bolts, and for a great variety of wares. It is also largely used in transmitting electricity. It is exten- sively used in various alloys, as brass, gun metal, bell metal, bronze, alu- minum bronze, German silver, and others. To Improve Copper Castings. — To 100 pounds of melted copper add 1 pound of pulverized cryolite, 4f ounces rf sugar of lead, and 1 pound of bo- rax. Continue the heat 10 minutes be- fore pouring the copper into the mold. Feather-shot Copper. — To prepare, melt the copper and pour it in a thin stream in cold water. Bean-shot Copper. — To prepare, pour melted copper in a thin stream in boiling water. To Test for Copper. — To detect the presence of copper in liquids, put some of the liquid in a wineglass and add a few drops of aqua ammonia. If copper is present, the liquid will turn blue. This is a useful test for tea, which sometimes is injured by being dried on copper. It may also be applied to cider, vin- 390 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES egar, and the like, and likewise to pickles to make sure that they were not rendered poisonous by having been prepared in copper kettles. To Whiten Copper. — Melt with 8 ounces of copper J ounce of neutral arsenical salt in the presence of a mixture of burnt borax, charcoal dust, and prepared glass. Or, for 1 pound of copper, mix 4 ounces of saltpeter and 4 ounces of arsenic in powder form, and melt in the crucible with gentle heat. Re- move, cool, and grind to powder. Add IJ ounces of "Venetian borax and IJ ounces of white tartar. Melt the mix- ture and pour into an iron receiver. It will appear as clear crystals. Heat the copper in thin sheets six or seven times and quench in water. Melt the sheets and throw the above crys- tals in small pieces into the melted copper, at intervals of 5 minutes, un- . til all have been thrown in. Continue the heat 15 minutes, and pour. Brass. — This important alloy of copper and zinc is used for many pur- poses, because it is easy to work and of an acceptable color. It is made by melting together copper and zinc in a crucible, the zinc being placed under the copper to prevent its pass- ing off as a gas. Or the zinc is first melted, and the copper added in strips or sheets. At first the copper is taken up rapidly, then more slowly. When all the cop- per has been added, the alloy is cooled and remelted with charcoal, and more zinc or copper added to produce the desired quality of brass. Or heat the copper in small grains or sheets with the oxide of zinc and charcoal. Or heat the copper with calamine, a native ore of zinc, and charcoal. This was the ancient method. There are different kinds of brass adapted to special uses according to composition. Common brass for cast- ings contains about 70 parts of cop- per and 30 parts of zinc. The addi- tion of lead makes brass less ductile; tin makes it harder. Articles of brass may be cleaned by dipping them in nitric acid, and colored by lacquers of shellac and other resins in alcohol. Brass is harder than copper, is malle- able, ductile, can be readily cast, rolled, stamped, and turned in the lathe. Next to iron it is the most im- portant metal used in the arts. Some of the various kinds of brass are as follows: Metal sheathing for ships (known as Muntz or yeUow metal), copper, 50 to 63 parts; zinc, 38 to 50 parts. This is used to prevent decay from sea water in the wooden bottoms of ves- sels and to keep off barnacles. Prince Ruperfs metal, 3 parts of copper; 1 part of zinc. Red brass, 16 copper; 3 zinc. Yellow brass, 60 copper; 40 zinc. Sheet brass, 16 copper; 3J zinc. Soft brass, 4 copper; 1 zinc. This is an easy working metal, can be read- ily sawed, and is a very useful brass. Dipping metal, 16 copper; 7 zinc. Brazing solder, 16 copper; 14 zinc. Mosaic gold, 1 copper; 1 zinc. Or equal parts by weight. Melt the cop- per and keep it at the lowest temper- ature at which it vriU stay melted. Add the zinc in small pieces, stirring constantly until the alloy turns white. Then cover with air-slaked lime, heat it to the desired temperature, and pour. More zinc than copper may be required, because some of the zinc may pass off as gas. Tombac, pinchbeck, Mannheim gold, similore, and the like contain 80 parts or more of copper and 30 parts or less of zinc. Sronze. — Bronze is an alloy of cop- per with tin, or tin and lead, or tin and zinc, or with all three. Sometimes other metals are also added in small proportions. The hardest and finest bronze consists of tin alone with cop- per in the proportion of about 9 parts of copper to 1 part of tin. Bronze is extensively used in the arts for cast- ing metals and statues ; also in casting bells, cannon, and machinery. Bronze was used in the earliest times for weapons and utensils before iron was discovered. Hence scholars tell of an " age of bronze " which came after the THE FAMILY WORKROOM 391 " age of stone " and before the " age of iron." Tempering has exactly the opposite effect on bronze to what it has on steel. Hence, to draw the temper of bronze and make it soft and malle- able, it must be heated to a cherry red and quenched in water. The following are various kinds of bronze, adapted to different purposes: Bronze cannon, 9 copper, 1 tin; Chinese gongs, 5 copper, 1 tin; musi- cal bells, 6 copper, 1 tin; house bells, 4 copper, 1 tin; large bells, 3 copper, 1 tin; bronze for wheels, 10 copper, 1 tin; speculirai or telescope metal, 2 copper, 1 tin; mechanical instru- ments, 13 copper, 1 tin; soft bronze, 16 copper, 1 tin; bronze for gears, 16 copper, IJ tin; gun metal, 16 copper, 2 tin; bronze bearings, 16 copper, 2 J tin; cutting tools, 100 copper, 14 tin. The ancient cutting instruments of bronze are superior to any of modern make, but this is supposed to be due to an art of tempering, which has been lost, as their composition varies from 4 to 14 per cent of tin. The addition of zinc, lead, and other ma- terials produces another class of al- loys, including the following: Standard bronze, 12 copper; 1 tin; J lead. Bronze for journal boxes, 24 cop- per; 24 tin; 8 antimony. First melt the copper, then add the tin, and final- ly the antimony. Run into ingots and melt down before casting. Bronze for ornaments, 83 copper; 18 zinc; 3 tin; 3 lead. Bronze for general work, 16 cop- per; 1 tin; 1 zinc; i lead. Strong bronze, 10 copper; 1 tin; | brass; J lead. Bronze for gun metal, 8 copper; 1 tin; J zinc; J lead. Cheap bronze, 30 copper; 15 old brass; IJ tin; 2 lead. Bronze solder, 39 J copper; 7i zinc; 3 tin. Use to unite iron to brass. Artificial gold, 100 copper; 17 tin; 6 magnesia; 9 commercial tartar; i sal ammoniac, J quicklime. First melt the copper, to which add the mag- nesia, sal ammoniac, lime, and tartar in the order named. Stir these in slowly in powdered form; then stir vigorously for 20 to 30 minutes un- til all are incorporated. Throw the tin on the surface in small grains, and stir until entirely melted. Cover the crucible and let stand for half an hour. Skim off the dross and pour. This is a beautiful alloy, of a color similar to gold, is malleable and duc- tile, and may be worked like gold. It requires a good judge to tell the dif- ference. Or 94 copper and 6 anti- mony, said by French experts to be a wonderful substitute for gold. It can be polished to almost exactly the same color as gold, and can be worked in the same manner. Bronze jewelry, 3 copper; 1 brass; i tin. White metal, 8 brass; 10 tin; 10 lead; 6 bismuth; J antimony. Melt together and run into molds. This alloy is malleable, closely resembles silver, and is used for the manufac- ture of cheap tableware and various ornaments. Or, for hard white metal, 20 brass; 3 zinc; 1 tin. Aluminum bronze, 90 copper; 10 alimiinum. Manganese bronze, 80 to 90 copper; 20 to 10 manganese. Phosphor bronze, any standard bronze melted in the presence of phos- phorus, and usually retaining a small amount of that substance. The last three are all valuable al- loys, stronger and better than pure bronze. LEAS AKO ITS ALLOYS Lead. — Next to iron, lead is the most common of metals. Its color is bluish gray, it is soft and ductile, it burns at a white heat in the open air, producing an oxide known as litharge, which is much used as a dryer in mix- ing paints. Lead is used for roofing, lining sinks, cisterns, etc., for shot and balls, and for the manufacture of pipes. Lead is so soft that it can be drawn out in pipe form without welding. It is so cheap and handy to work that it is almost universally HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES employed for water pipes and has given its name to the plumber's trade, the Latin name for lead being plum- bum. The principal alloys of lead are type metal which is lead and an- timony, and pewter or solder which is lead and tin. Various compounds of lead are in common use. Litharge is used as a dryer with oils and varnishes, and in the manufacture of glass. Red lead or minmm is used as a pigment of oil paints and in coloring wall paper, sealing wax, etc. It is also used in the manufacture of glass. White lead is a mixture of litharge and carbon. It forms the basis of most lead paints. An objection to white-lead paint is that it turns dark under the influence of gases or other compounds containing sulphur. Lead is a cumulative poison, and those who work in it, as painters, plumbers, and others, are liable to a complaint known as " painter's colic." The use of lead pipe has been the source of many cases of lead poisoning; hence lead pipe should always be lined with tin. This is but little more expensive than pure lead pipe and is much safer. Sugar of lead, or acetate of lead, an active poison, is made by dissolv- ing litharge in wood vinegar or other cheap acetic acid. It forms beautiful crystals which gradually crumble to a white powder. These may be dis- solved in water by the addition of acetic acid. Chromates of lead are known as chrome yellow and chrome red. They are two brilliant and valuable pig- ments, chrome yellow being especially important. These are used as pig- ments in mixing paints, as dyes, and the like. lead Tree. — This interesting ex- periment is perfomed by dissolving in a large glass vessel 1 ounce of sugar of lead in 1 quart of water, and by placing near the top a small piece of zinc of irregular shape. Within 2 or 3 days the zinc will shoot out leaves similar to vegetation, and will become extremely beautiful. It must, however, be moved with great care, as the slightest jar wOl cause it to fall apart. The zinc decomposes the acetate of lead and causes the metal to be precipitated on its surface in a metallic state. Lead in Grains. — To obtain lead in this form, melt it and pour from a height in a thin stream into cold water. Sheet Xead. — To prepare lead in sheet form, pour the melted lead on a large flat stone having a rim to pre- vent the lead from running off. Lay off a square equal in size to the de- sired sheet, placing at the corners up- right pegs of the desired thickness. After pouring on the melted lead, press down upon the pegs a thin piece of flat stone fitted with a suitable wooden back and handle to smooth the lead surface. Remove the sheet of lead and repeat the process. The sheets may afterwards be trimmed as desired. To Test White Xead. — To test white lead, which is often adulterated, put a little of it on the end of a stick and set the stick on fire. If the lead is pure it will appear in small globules like shot. If it forms a white crust on the stick it is not pure. Crush this white crust on paper. If it con- tains lead the paper will be black, otherwise it will be of a pale-yellow color. Or place a small quantity of the white lead on an earthenware surface and direct against it by means of a blowpipe the flame of a candle or of an alcohol lamp. The metallic lead will appear in the form of a melted globule, and any impurities will be apparent. Type Metal. — Lead, 83; antimony, 17. This mixture is harder and may be melted more easily than either of its components, and it has qualities which adapt it for fine and sharp castings. A little zinc is sometimes added. Expansion Metal. — Seventy -five lead; 16 J antimony; 8i bismuth. This, mixture expands on cooling. Or 7 lead; 1 antimony; J tin. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 393 TIN AND ITS ALIOYS, SOLDER, ETC. Tin. — Tin is a lustrous white metal, soft, malleable, and quite ductile at the temperature of boiling water. It is very little affected even by moist air at low temperatures. It was known in very ancient times (being mentioned in the Pentateuch), and was an important article of trade with the British Islands before the Christian era. Tin is largely used in various alloys with other metals, and in melted form to coat sheet iron, tin plate, and copper. Various compounds of tin are used in the arts. Tin dissolved in hydro- chloric acid is used as a mordant in dyeing under the name of salt of tin. Another compound, called pink salt, is used as a red dye. Another, known as tin solution, brightens and fixes red colors. Tin Plate. — This is sheet iron or sheet steel coated with tin. To coat iron or copper with tin, melt to a white heat 1 pound of malleable iron; add 5 ounces of regulus of antimony and 34 pounds of Molucca tin. Cover the melted tin with palm oil to keep out the air. Dip articles to be tinned into dilute sulphuric acid. When clean, dip in warm water to rinse, then in hot palm oil to remove the water; next in a solution of muriatic acid, copper, and zinc; finally in a tin bath, to which a small quantity of zinc has been added. When the tin- ning is finished, plunge the articles into boiling water. Finally cover them with very warm sand, which sof- tens the iron. Tin plate is prepared commercially by passing through a patent pot hav- ing rollers, which by their tension de- termine the thickness of the coating of tin. To Ornament Tin Plate ty Moire Metallique. — Dip the plates in u strong solution of sal soda, then in water. Heat them, and sponge or sprinkle them with an acid solution, as nitric and muriatic acids, in vari- ous proportions, as 1 part of sul- phuric acid and 6 parts of water; 1 part of sulphuric acid, 2 parts of mu- riatic acid, and 10 parts of water; 1 part of nitric acid, 3 parts of sul- phuric acid, and 16 parts of water; rinse in water slightly acidulated with the same acids, dry, and lacquer. To Hand Tinware. — Tin plate may be mended by covering small open- ings with melted solder (an alloy of tin with lead), or by soldering a suit- able patch of sheet tin, tin plate, or zinc over larger openings. Before sol- dering, it is necessary to apply a solu- tion of zinc in acid to the adjacent parts. This is known as soldering liquid. To Make Soldering Lictuid. — Put in a strong glass bottle or other vessel 2 ounces of muriatic acid. Cut scraps of sheet zinc into narrow strips and feed them into the liquor as fast as they will dissolve. The acid at first will unite with the zinc and generate considerable heat, which may burst the bottle. Hence do this preferably out of doors, and take care that the acid does not get on anything of value. Or dissolve the zinc in an open ves- sel, and afterwards bottle for use. When the acid ceases to dissolve the zinc, add 1 ounce of sal ammoniac and boil 10 minutes in an earthenware or copper vessel, but do not use any other metal for this purpose. Cork tightly. Apply this liquid with a feather to the parts to be soldered, or by wetting the cork of the bottle. A few drops are sufficient. Do not let it fall on the hands or clothing. This liquid causes the solder to flow freely and makes it adhere. Soft Solder. — A solder suitable for the more fusible metals, as tin, pew- ter, Britannia ware, and zinc, is known generally as soft solder because it has the property of melting at very low temperature. The following propor- tions are recommended: For tin — common solder, 1 lead; 1 tin. Or 1 lead; 1 tin; 2 bismuth. This solder is soft enough to melt in boiling water. Coarse solder, 2 lead; 1 tin. Fine solder, 1 lead; 2 tin. 394 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES For Britannia ware, 1 lead; 1 tin; \ bismuth. For zinc or lead, 1 or 3 lead; 1 tin. For pewter, 1 tin; 1 lead; 1 or 3 bJsmutli. To Hake and Use Solder. — Melt the metals together in any of the above proportions with gentle heat. Apply , soldering liquid to the parts with a pencil or with a feather; sprinkle the parts with powdered rosin. Apply the solder and smooth with a solder- ing iron. This is the usual method, but in the absence of a soldering iron a suitable solder may be made of shavings of solder melted in a large iron spoon, poured on the parts, and rubbed smooth before cooling with the bowl of the spoon. Or, if necessary, a patch of zinc or sheet tin may be applied by covering the patch and the surface of the tin with soldering liquid and solder, and laying on the patch before the solder cools. Or, in place of solder, tin foil may be used to apply patches or to solder two pieces of soft metal together. Cut a piece of tin foil the size of the sur- face to be soldered. Apply soldering liquid with a feather to both metal surfaces and place them in position with the tin foil between. Apply to the outer surface an iron hot enough to strike through and melt the foil. When cold, the two surfaces will be found to be soldered together. Or, to apply a zinc or lead patch to soft metals, simply moisten both ■" surfaces with soldering liquid, put the patch in place, and hold a kerosene or an alcohol lamp flame beneath it. This will cause the surfaces of the zinc or lead to rim and fuse to- gether. To Mend Tin Pans without Solder. — Use soft putty. Push it through the hole from the outside. Smooth on both sides with a knife after the manner of a rivet, and let stand until hard. This is not only a quick and easy way to make temporary repairs, but one that wiU withstand all ordi- nary treatment and may never need to be repeated. Hard Solder. — Metals which fuse only at high temperatures, as iron, gold, copper, and silver, and their al- loys, brass, bronze, and others, require a hard solder. The proportions rec- ommended for different metals are as follows: Steel solder, 19 silver; 1 copper; 2 brass. Or 2 copper; 1 zinc. Gold solder, 7 silver; 1 copper. Fuse with borax. Or 2 gold; 1 sil- ver; 1 copper. Or 3 gold; 3 silver; 1 copper; J zinc. Silver solder, 3 silver; 1 brass with borax. Or 4 sUver; 3 brass; tV ^i°c with borax. Brass solder, 3 copper; 1 zinc with borax. Platinum solder, gold with borax. Iron solder, tough brass with borax. Copper solder, 6 brass; 1 zinc; 1 tin. To prepare the above, melt the met- als together, mix thoroughly, and pour in molds to cool. To apply, make the surfaces perfectly clean and smooth. Cover with Soldering liquid and sprin- kle with powdered rosin or borax. Ap- ply the solder in melted form and smooth with a soldering iron. Tin in Grains. — Melt grain tin and pour it into a wooden box, the inside of which has been rubbed with chalk or whiting. Close the cover and shake violently until the tin is reduced to powder. Wash in clean water and dry. Tin Pilings. — Melt grain tin in an iron vessel and stir briskly while cool- ing until it becomes a powder. Af- terwards sift to the required size. Oxide of Tin. — Dissolve tin in a mixture of nitric and muriatic acids in a closed vessel. Precipitate the oxide with an alkaline solution, as caustic potash or soda. Pour off the liquid, rinse in clean water, and dry. Muriate of Tin. — Melt tin and pour from a height of S or 6 feet into clean water. This reduces the tin to small particles. Or take filings of grain tin. Add to each J ounce of tin 8 ounces of muriatic acid. Bottle and cork tightly for use. This is used in dyeing scarlet colors. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 395 Nitrate of Tin.— Mix 8 ounces of aquafortis with 8 ounces of soft water, and add slowly J ounce of sal am- moniac and 2 drams of saltpeter. To this add gradually 1 ounce of melted tin poured into cold water from a height, or tin filings or tin in grains, letting each piece dissolve before add- ing another. When dissolved, bottle and cork tightly. Used in dyeing yellow. To Crystallize Tin. — Warm any block-tin article over the fire and rub it with a cloth dipped in a solution of 1 spoonful of muriatic acid, 1 spoonful of nitric acid, and 8 spoon- fuls of water. Measure with an old spoon that will not be harmed. After- wards lacquer with a colored varnish. To Make a Tin Tree. — Fill a clear glass vessel with water, to which add 3 drams of muriate of tin and 10 drops of nitric acid. Suspend near the top from a thread a strip of zinc of irregular shape, and let stand where it will not be shaken. The tin will be deposited on the zinc in vege- table-like forms. Pewter. — Pewter is a name some- what loosely applied to various alloys of tin with lead and other metals. Hard pewter may consist of 12 tin, 1 antimony, J copper. A better grade consists of 100 tin, 17 antimony. A common pewter consists of 7 tin, 1 lead, i copper, J zinc. Or 100 tin, 8 antimony, 4 copper, 1 bismuth. Other important alloys of tin are: Babbitt metal, 8 tin; 4 lead; 1 anti- mony. The composition of this was formerly closely guarded as a trade secret. To prepare this alloy, melt 4 pounds of copper; add gradually 12 pounds of best banca tin, then 8 pounds of antimony; finally, 12 pounds addition- al tin. This is a soft alloy invented by Mr. Isaac Babbitt of Boston. It is used to line boxes for axles and gudgeons to diminish friction and abrasion, especially in steamboats and locomotives. Mr. Babbitt, the in- ventor, was a goldsmith who made at his native town the first Britannia ware produced in the United States. He received a gold medal for the in- vention of Babbitt metal, and Con- gress presented him with $20,000. Britannior^are metal, 75 to 94 tin; 5 to 10 antimony; 2 to 8 bismuth. Pewter, 4 tin; 1 lead. Queen's metal, 9 tin; 1 lead; 1 bis- muth; 1 antimony. Or 9 tin; 1 bis- muth; 2 lead; 1 antimony. Or 10 tin; 8 antimony; 1 bismuth; 4 copper. Speculum metal, 1 tin; 2 copper. Bell metal, 22 tin; 78 copper, with sometimes a little zinc and lead. Gun metal, 1 tin; 9 copper. Sheathing for ships, 1 tin; 33 cop- per. Fusible metal, 1 tin; 1 lead; 2 bis- muth. This melts at 200.7° F. An amalgam of tin and mercury is used for coating mirrors, and type metal for fine work contains a small amount of tin. In addition to the above, 29 pounds of tin and 19 pounds of lead make a very fusible and brilliant alloy. Equal parts of tin and zinc make an alloy almost as strong as zinc or brass. ZINC AND ITS ALLOYS Zinc. — Zinc, sometimes called spel- ter, is almost as common as lead. It has the peculiarity of evaporating, like water, at a comparatively low temperature. Hence it is produced by a process of distillation. The ores are heated in retorts, and the zinc vapor is carried off condensed and purified through suitable pipes. Zinc is very hard, of a bluish color, and when fresh of a brilliant luster. It tarnishes by contact with the air, forming a thin, hard film which pro- tects it from further oxidation. Hence zinc is very durable and resists both air and water. Iron and other metals are often protected by a coating or an impervious varnish of zinc, form- ing galvanized iron, which does not rust until the zinc has worn away. Zinc is crystalline and brittle at ordinary temperatures, but at a tem- perature of 300° F. it may be rolled 396 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES into thin plates, and is quite malleable. At 400° it may be crushed to powder, at 780° it melts, and boils at 1900°, giving off a vapor which takes fire if exposed to the air, and burns with a bright light to zinc oxide. This is a pigment used as a commercial product instead of white lead for painting woodwork. Pure zinc dis- solves in nitric acid, but not in dilute sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid. Contact with other metals and sub- stances capable of conducting electric- ity sets up a voltaic circuit of elec- tricity which dissolves the zinc. This is seen in voltaic batteries; hence commercial zinc, containing more or less lead, iron, etc., may be dissolved readily in acids, alkalies, and even in neutral solutions on account of the electric circuits set up between the zinc and the other metals with which it is alloyed. Alloys of Zinc. — The principal al- loys of zinc are given under copper, brass, and bronze. Zinc alloys readily with all the common metals, except lead and bismuth. These alloys par- take of the hardness of zinc, and also, when used in excess, of its brittleness. The most important use of zinc as an alloy is in the manufacture of brass. Zinc will not unite with lead except in the presence of tin or other metal. With lead and bismuth it forms a fusible alloy which melts in boiling water. Zinc is sometimes used to al- loy bronze, which should properly consist only of tin and copper. The triple alloy of these three metals is used for journal boxes and other pur- poses where great hardness is desired. An amalgam of zinc with mercury is used for coating voltaic batteries Other alloys of zinc are: White metal, 1 zinc; 1 tin, and a little antimony. Antifriction alloy, 17 zinc; 2 tin; 1 antimony. This can be used for linings or for castings instead of brass. Imitation of German silver, 85 zinc; 15 copper. Substitute bronze, copper, and brass, 90 zinc; 8 copper; 1 cast iron; 1 lead. Or 91 zinc; 8 copper; 1 lead. These alloys may be colored to represent any alloy. Equal parts of zinc and tin make an alloy almost as strong as brass. Zinc ^ Solder. — Common solder, 1 tin and 1 lead. Or coarse solder, 2 lead and 1 tin, will solder zinc. Wet the parts with the liquid and sprinkle with powdered borax. KICKEL Ain> ITS ALLOYS Nickel. — Pure nickel is a metal of a silvery-white polish and strong lus- ter. When highly polished it is dif- ficult to tell nickel from polished sil- ver. It has the valuable property of not tarnishing on exposure to the air. To break a nickel wire requires IJ times the pull that an iron wire of the same thickness does. Nickel is hard and melts with grexit difficulty. It may be dissolved slowly in dilute sul- phuric or hydrochloric acid, and rap- idly in nitric acid and aqua regia. The principal uses of nickel are for nickel plating, for coinage, and for alloys. German silver, or nickel silver, is brass with the addition of J to J of nickel. It is intended as an imitation of silver. This alloy has been in use in China from a remote antiquity. The white copper or pakfong of China contains 40.4 copper, 31.6 nickel, 25.4 zinc, 2.6 iron. For German sUver, use about 1 nickel, 1 zinc, 2 copper. A little lead may be added for casts. Or, for a cheaper quality, 8 cop- per, 2 nickel, 3.5 zinc. But if less than J nickel is used the result will be little better than brass. Imitation silver consists of 8 cop- per, 3 nickel, 3.5 zinc. This is a beau- tiful alloy which takes a high polish much like silver. Or 8 copper, 4 nickel, 3.6 zinc is an Imitation of silver having a faint shade of blue. The addition of 2 or 3 per cent of iron renders it white, but less malleable. A very malleable German silver is 10 copper, 6 zinc, 4 silver. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 397 Chinese tutenag is 8 copper, 3 nick- el, 6.5 zinc. This is fusible, hard, and not easily rolled. Good German sil- ver is of a silver-white color, ductile as brass, hard, and takes a high pol- ish. On account of the cost of nickel, various cheaper white metals have taken the place of German silver, but the latter is stiU extensively used in the arts. To make German silver, granulate the metals, mix them thoroughly, cov- er with charcoal, and stir while melt- ing. Nickel steel contains 3^ per cent nickel, as made at the Bethlehem works. It is used for armor plate, but is still too costly for other pur- poses. Probably nickel will be cheap- er in future, as it has steadily de- clined in price with improved methods of manufacture. ALTJMIinJM AND ITS ALLOYS Aluminum. — A large part of the crust of the earth consists of this met- al. It is most abundant in different varieties of clay, but occurs in the rock known as feldspar, and also in corundum, emery, and in the precious stones sapphire and ruby. Improved methods of manufacture have in recent years greatly reduced the cost of aluminum, which should be one of the cheapest of metals, and it is likely to be further reduced in time to come. Aluminum nearly chemically pure is now made commercially at a price which admits of its use for various wares and utensils. The leading qual- ity of aluminum is its lightness, it be- ing hardly more than 2.5 times as heavy as water. Steel is nearly 3 times as heavy as aluminum, copper 3.6 times, lead 4.8 times, gold 7.7 times. Aluminum is not, however, a very strong metal, being under tensile strain about equal to cast iron, and less than half as strong as wrought iron. Pure aluminum is white with a bluish tint. Upon exposure to the air it acquires a thin film of white oxide like zinc, which prevents further tarnishing but increases the bluish tint. It conducts heat about one half as well as silver. It can be dissolved in hydrochloric acid, and is corroded rapidly by caus- tic alkalies, as potash and soda, chlo- rine, iodine, and similar substances. To Solder Aluminum. — Moisten the surface with Venetian turpentine, and solder with pure zinc, using a solder- ing iron. Aluminum Alloys. — Aluminum 95 and silver 5 gives a beautiful alloy susceptible of a high polish, which is likely to have many important uses in the arts. Aluminum bronze, an alloy of cop- per with 2 to 13 per cent of aluminum, has great strength and ductility and resists corrosion. More than 10 per cent of aluminum is usually not ad- visable, and down to 5 per cent is usually preferred. Additional alu- minum increases the hardness and lightens the color, 10 per cent alloy having a yellowish-gold and the 2i per cent alloy having a deep red-gold shade. These bronzes can be forged, rolled, hammered, or cast in almost every way that steel can, and with greater strength, ductility, and power to withstand corrosion. Silver bronze, a substitute for Ger- man silver,' contains 67.5 copper, 18 manganese, 13 zinc, 5 silicon, 1.3 aluminum. It is used in electrical engineering for resistance coils. Aluminum is added to cast iron at the rate of 2 to 5 pounds a ton to re- duce the range of temperature be- tween which the iron first softens and that at which it becomes fluid. Five to 10 ounces of aluminum added to each ton of steel or open-hearth met- al, or 7 to 16 ounces for Bessemer metal, helps to quiet the steel in pour- ing. Four ounces of aluminum added to 10 tons of smelter in galvanizing improves the finish of galvanized iron or steel sheets. ANTIMONY AND ITS ALLOYS Antimony. — A brittle silver-white metal, having a peculiar taste. It oc- curs in nature combined with nickel, 398 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES sUver, oxygen, and sulphur. The com- mercial metal is known as " regulus of antimony." The principal source of supply is Borneo and Singapore, whence the ore is shipped to Great Britain, commonly as ballast. Anti- mony is extremely brittle, may be eas- ily pulverized in a mortar, and when heated in the open air burns with a bluish-white flame, giving off the fumes of an oxide known as flowers of antimony. Among the compounds of antimony the trichloride or butter of antimony, mixed with olive oU, is used for bronzing gun barrels. The following are among the alloys of antimony: Type metal contains 1 antimony, 4 lead. When used for stereotype plates it contains also -^ to -^ ot tin. This aUoy is hard and also expands at the moment it solidifies, thus taking a very sharp impression of the mold. Britannia ware contains 1 antimony, 9 tin. Pewter is an alloy of antimony and tin. Antimony enters into the composi- tion of many of the antifriction al- loys. Tartar emetic is a preparation of antimony, commonly used in medi- cine. The old-fashioned " family piU " was a small bullet of metallic anti- mony, which was swallowed for cer- tain difficulties, and carefully pre- served for future occasions. Bismuth. — A brittle metal of a crys- talline texture and white color having a red tinge. This metal is not often used in a pure state. Among its al- loys are: Fusible metal, 8 bismuth, 6 lead, 3 tin, which melts in boiling water. Bismuth is also added to some kinds of stereotype metal. The subnitrate of bismuth, a pure- white, tasteless, heavy powder, called pearl white, pearl powder, etc., is used as a cosmetic. UEBCTTBY AIO) ITS AUALGAUS Mercury. — Mercury is the only pure metal which is liquid at ordinary tem- peratures. It has been known from remote antiqviity together with its chlorides, corrosive sublimate and red oxide, which were known to the Ara- bians, and calomel, known to the al- chemists. Its sulphide cinnabar has been used as a pigment from ancient times. Pure mercury has a pure sil- ver-white luster. Like sUver, it is tarnished by the fumes of sulphur or dust which adheres to and adulter- ates it. Mercury mixes freely with most of the common metals, especially lead, tin, zinc, and copper. Contact with other metals often ruins mercury or greatly lessens its value. No metal should be allowed to touch it except iron or platinum. Pure mercury forms in globules, which run freely over glass or other smooth surface. The presence of other liquids causes it to be somewhat sticky and to " drag a tail " behind when flovring over smooth surfaces. Hence this is a test of its purity. Mercury freezes at a temperature of 39° F. Hence, while used for ther- mometers at ordinary temperatures, it is not smtable for those used in arctic regions, where it is replaced by alco- hol or some other spirit Mercury is also used in amalgama- tion with zinc for voltaic batteries, for mirrors, barometers, thermometers, steam and other pressure gauges, and with copper in dental amalgams. Amalgams. — Alloys of mercury with other metals are called amalgams; among these are the dental amalgam with copper, an amalgam with tin for coating mirrors, and amalgams of the precious metals used in mining. Calomel, a chloride of mercury. Is used in medicine, and corrosive sub- limate is used as a preservative and insecticide. The mineral cinnabar, a sulphide of mercury, forms the beau- tiful pigment known as vermilion. To Coat Mirrors with. Mercury. — Spread on a solid level table a sheet of tin foil the size of the mirror, hav- ing a ledge about its edge to prevent the mercury from flowing over at the sides. Pour on a little mercury, and rub it over the surface with a piece THE FAMILY WORKEOOM 399 of felt, taking care not to wrinkle the foil. Now pour on mercury deep enough so that its upper surface will be liquid. Then push the glass along the layer of mercury with its lower edge below the surface, so as to keep out the air and push along any im- purities, and let it rest on the mer- cury. Tilt the table to let the excess of mercury run off into a trough pro- vided for it. Lay on a weight of the same size and shape as the glass so as to exert a tmiform pressure, and let stand until hard and dry. The time required varies from a few days or weeks to a number of months, depend- ing upon conditions that are not fully understood. During this process mer- cury must be kept from the fumes of sulphur, sewer gas, burning matches, or anything containing sulphur, as rub- ber and the like. After the amalgam dries, the mirror may be lifted care- fully and ba'cked with thin boards or otherwise to exclude the air. Or lay a sheet of tin foil on a mar- ble slab, a table, or other smooth sur- face, and rub it with mercury, using a hare's foot or a piece of soft cham- ois. Use about 3 drams of mercury to 1 square foot of foil. Continue the rubbing until the two metals in- corporate and the foil becomes bril- liant. Lay the plate of glass upon it and load it with weights in such a way that the pressure will be exactly equal over all parts of the glass. Any excess of mercury will be squeezed out and the tin foil will adhere to the To Repair Mirrors. — ^To renew the silvering from the back of a mirror, lay it face downward on a smooth surface and prepare a piece of tin foU large enough to patch the damaged part by rubbing it with mercury. Place the patch in position, lay a sheet of paper over it, and put on it a weight having a perfectly flat sur- face and heavy enough to press it down tightly. Let the mirror lie in this position for a day or two and the foil will adhere to the glass. Or the silvering may be removed from a broken mirror and used to patch a mirror which is scratched or damaged. Platinum. — A whitish steel-gray metal, very ductile and malleable, and, like gold, not liable to tarnish or cor- rode. It is one of the heaviest of the metals, being about 21J times as heavy as water. Platinum cannot be melted with or- dinary heat, hence it is commonly used as a material for crucibles in which other metals are to be melted. It may be dissolved, like gold, in aqua regia, and forms alloys with gold and silver and many other metals which are more fusible than pure platinum. Combined with the rare metal iridium it forms an extremely hard aUoy, which is used for gun vents and standard weights and measures. Platinum wire is used in incandes- cent electrical lamps. Its price varies from $9 to $13 an ounce. To Solder Platinum. — To solder platinum, use pure gold with borax. COATIITG METAIS WITH OTHER MET- ALS BT ELECTRICITY AND OTHER- WISE To Tin Copper. — To tin copper, brass, or lead, dissolve J pint of table salt and 4 ounces of cream of tartar in S gallons of water. Add 1 pound of tin filings. BoU the articles in this solution, stirring briskly, until the coating is satisfactory. Tinning Copper and Brass. — Boil 3 pounds of cream of tartar in 3 gallons of water. Add 4 pounds of grain tin or tin filings. BoU vigorous- ly. Put in the articles to be tinned, and continue the boiling until a suf- ficient coating is deposited. Tinning Copper. — Apply sulphuric acid with a swab to the copper arti- cle, and scour with a moistened cloth dipped in dry pumice to get a per- fectly smooth surface. Apply solder- ing liquid over the surface and sprin- kle it with powdered sal ammoniac. Heat the article until it is,hot enough to melt the solder. Then take a bar of solder and rub it over the surface. Or melt solder inside of the dish 400 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES or pan, and rub it with a swab over the inside surface. Smooth over the surface while the dish is still hot enough to keep the solder in a partly liquid condition. Electroplating -with Copper. — Clean and scour the articles to free them from rust or oxide and all other impurities. Dip them in a solution of nitrate of mercury. This covers them with a thin amalgam that causes the plate to adhere firmly. Prepare in a suitable tank a strong solution of sulphate of copper in boil- ing water. When the water has dis- solved all it can, strain the solution through cheese cloth. To each gallon of this solution add 3J ounces of strong sulphuric acid and i dram of white arsenic. Suspend in one end of the tank a clean plate of copper connected by wire to the zinc pole of a battery. Suspend the articles to be coppered by means of a copper wire or an iron rod across the top of the tank, taking care that they do not touch each other or the plate of clean copper. Connect the rod or wire on which they are suspended with the op- posite pole or battery, and turn on the current. If the battery is a single cell, put a bag of sulphate of copper in the solution near the surface. This will keep up the strength. The con- ditions most favorable to satisfactory coppering are a current of low inten- sity, quite a strong solution of sul- phate of copper slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid, and a tempera- ture of at least 60°. Or, for a cheaper grade of work, the dip in nitrate of mercury may be omitted. Copper Solution for Iron. — To cop- perplate cast iron, dip the articles in a mixture of SO parts of hydrochloric acid and 1 part of nitric acid to free them from rust or other impurities. Next dip the articles in a solution of 1 part of nitric acid, and 1 part of chloride of copper dissolved in 8 parts of hydrochloric acid. Remove from the bath and polish with felt, rinse with clear water, and dip again until the desired coating is obtained, This coating may be bronzed by rubbing with a mixture of 2 ounces of sal ammoniac, i ounce of oxalic acid, J ounce of acetic acid, and IS ounces of water. Electrotyping — Coppering Solu- tion for Metals. — Brine water, 3 quarts; siilphate of copper, 1 pound. Mix and immerse the articles. Use for this purpose wooden trays lined with asphalt. When a sufBcient coat- ing has been obtained, remove and wash in hot water and polish with felt. Zincking. — To cover copper and brass articles with a layer of pure zinc, immerse them in a solution of chloride of zinc, and add a quantity of pure zinc shavings or filings until a considerable sediment is formed at the bottom. To Regalvanize Zinc Work. — To renew the coating of zinc on galvan- ized iron or other articles, immerse the articles in a dilute solution of 1 part of sulphuric acid to 10 parts of water imtil the old zinc comes off. Scour with sand and hot water until the surface is bright; dip in a solu- tion of sal ammoniac and then in molten zinc. The surface of the molt- en metal must be covered with a lay- er of ground glass to prevent its evaporating in fumes. Or prepare a solution of sal am- moniac, to which add zinc filings or zinc foil until a sediment is formed. Bring this solution to a boU, and im- merse the articles until a. sulficient coating is formed. Brazing. — Copper may be coated with brass by boiling the articles in a mixture of argol amalgam, 1 part; zinc, 1 part; muriatic acid, 2 parts, diluted with sufficient water to cover the articles. Copper kettles or other utensils may be coated internally by filling them with this liquid and boil- ing them for a time. Or articles of copper or brass may be given a superficial coating of brass by heating them and exposing them to the fumes of melted zinc. This method is employed to make imi- tation gold wire, and also for cheap THE FAMILY WORKROOM 401 jewelry, as it gives a higher luster than solid brass. To Color Brass Gold. — Mix equal parts of muriatic acid and alum with warm water, and steep the articles in the mixture for a few seconds. To Whiten Brass and Copper. — Mix equal parts of white tartar alum and grain tin. Add water and boil the articles in the mixture. They acquire a coating of tin which will take a high polish like silver. Or dissolve 4 ounces of chromate of tartar in 1 gallon of boiling water; add 2 ounces of tin salt dissolved in 16 ounces of cold water. Boil, strain, and pour in a thin stream into a ves- sel containing 13 ounces of hyposul- phite of soda dissolved in 1 quart of water. Bring to a boil and filter. Articles dipped in this solution take on a series of brilliant metallic lus- ters which vary with the time they remain immersed. These range from light yellow to dark gold or reddish brown. Black Dip for Brass. — Dip the ar- ticle in tincture of iron. Let dry and dip in an infusion of tincture of nut- galls. Or carbonate of copper, 1 ounce; aqua ammonia, 5 pounds; water, 10 pounds. Suspend the articles in this mixture, remove, and polish with felt. Bronzing for Metals. — Bronze when exposed to the air becomes covered with a green coating of a basic cop- per carbonate, which protects it from further corrosion. As this coating is much admired, it may be produced artificially in various ways and of different tints and shades as may be desired. The solutions for this purpose vary according to the metals to be bronzed and the colors wanted. To Bronze Zinc. — To 6 pints of muriatic acid add 2 pounds of oxide of iron and 1 pound of yellow arsen- ic. Mix well, let stand 48 hours, and shake frequently. It is then fit for use. Clean the articles perfectly free from grease, dip in this mixture, and let stand two hoiirs or wntil black- Remove and rinse in boiling water. Then apply any good liquid blacking or paste and polish with a brush. Use black lead on the polishing brush to darken the color. Lacquer the ar- ticle, and the color will remain for years. AH' art bronzes are made from zinc and treated in this way. Or muriatic acid, 1 pint; water, 3 pints; chrome alum, 45 grains. Clean, and dip until colored. Polish with lacquer. Or, for bronze tints on zinc or iron, dissolve 2 ounces of hyposulphite of soda and 3 ounces of acetate of lead in 3 pints of water. Iron dipped in this becomes blue; zinc becomes cop- per colored; brass becomes red, deep blue, or light blue. Bronzing for Brass. — Vinegar, 5 gallons; blue vitriol, IJ pounds; muriatic acid, 3 pints; corrosive sub- limate, 3 grains; sal ammoniac, 1 pound; alum, 4 ounces. Mix togeth- er with gentle heat, dip the articles until the desired tint is secured, rinse in boiling water, and polish with felt and lacquer if desired. Or warm the article and wash with a hot solution of sal ammoniac. Let stand over night in a solution of 2 ounces of verdigris, 1 ounce of am- monium chloride, and 6 ounces of vin- egar diluted with water. Or hyposulphite of soda, 2 ounces; acetate of lead, 3 ounces; water, 3 pints. This gives brass a red, deep- blue, or light-blue tint. To Color Bronze Green. — To 1 quart of strong vinegar add i ounce of mineral green, J ounce of raw um- ber, i ounce of sal ammoniac, i ounce of gum arable, and J ounce of cop- per. BoU in a little water over a slow fire 2 ounces of French berries and 3 ounces of green oats until their strength is extracted. Add this liquor to the mixture, bring all to a boU, cool, and strain through flannel. Or the oats may be omitted. Or dilute 1 part of acetic acid in 10 parts of water to make 2 pounds; add green verditer, 1 ounce; muriate of ammonia, i ounce; common salt, 1 ovmce; alum, J ounce. Boil J pound 402 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES of French berries in a little water until the strength is extracted. Add this to the above mixture, bring to a boil, and strain. Or, for olive brov^n, mix hydro- chloric acid, 1 ounce; nitric acid, J ounce. Add titanium or palladium as long as it dissolves. Strain, and add 3 pints of distUled water. Or mix equal amounts of sal am- moniac and salts of sorrel, and dis- solve in vinegar. Dip the articles in the solution, or apply it with a brush, increasing the color by repeated dip- pings or additional coats. The above may be applied to articles of copper, brass, bronze, or any other metal. Bronze — Dark or Brown Shades. — Iron filings, 1 pound; arsenic, 1 ounce; metallic zinc, 1 ounce; hydro- chloric acid, 1 pound. Dip the arti- cles in this solution and repeat if nec- essary. This gives a brown shade. Or dissolve salts of copper in water and acidulate with nitric acid. This gives a blackish bronze. Or dissolve salts of copper in liquid ammonia and acidulate with acetic acid. This gives a dark-red or cop- per color. Aniline Bronzing Pluid. — Two ounces of aniline red and 1 ounce of aniline purple dissolved in 10 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol. Dissolve with gentle heat in a double boiler. Add 1 ounce of benzoic acid and boil for 10 minutes, or until the greenish color of the mixture changes to a light bronze. This is a very brilliant bronze paint or varnish, which may be applied with a brush to all metals or other materials, and dries qviickly. Bronze Paint for Iron. — Chrome green, 1 pound; ivory black, J ounce; chrome yellow, J ounce; japan, J gal- lon. Grind all together in linseed oil. Mix the boiled linseed oil and apply with a paint brush. Or to any black paint add sufficient chrome yellow to give a dark-green shade. Apply this with a brush, dry, and coat with a slow-drying varnish. When the varnish is tacky, dust on bronze powder through a dieese-cloth bag. Shake it over the varnish. Let dry, and cover with hard copal or other varnish. To Bronze Gnn Barrels. — Put hy- drochloric acid in an open earthen- ware vessel, and feed in strips of zinc until the acid ceases to take them up. Evaporate this liquor with gentle heat until a drop on a piece of glass solid- ifies on cooling. Cool and add 2 parts of olive oil for each 3 parts of the liquor. Clean the gun barrels. Warm them with gentle heat, and apply this mixture with a piece of felt. Bronze Powder — Red Bronze. — Sul- phate of copper, 10 ounces; carbonate of soda, 6 ounces. Mix together with gentle heat, pulverize, and add IJ ounces of copper filings. Mix, bring to a white heat, and keep it so 20 minutes. When cool, powder, wash on filter paper, and dry. Gold Bronze. — Verdigris, 4 ounces; putty powder, 3 ounces; borax, 1 ounce; niter, 1 ounce; bichloride of mercury, J oimce. Mix to a paste with boiled linseed oil and fuse. This mixture is used in japanning. Cheap Gold Bronze. — Melt 1 pound of tin and add J pound of quicksil- ver. Stir in 7 ounces of sulphur and 8 ounces of sal ammoniac, and pul- verize. Pure Gold Bronze. — Grind gold leaf to a powder in pure honey. Dilute with clear water and let the gold set- tle. Pour off the water and repeat vmtil the gold dust is clean. Pure Silver Bronze. — Same as the above, but substitute silver leaf for gold. Silver-white Bronze. — ^Melt togeth- er 1 ounce of bismuth and 1 ounce of tin; add 1 ounce of mercury, cool, and pulverize. Cheap Gold or Silver Bronze. — Grind Dutch leaf to powder. Iron-color Bronze. — Grind plum- bago to powder. Bronze for Plaster Casts. — Coat the casts in oil or glue size, and be- fore they dry apply bronze powder by tapping it on with cotton wool or a camel's-hair brush. Or hold the powder loosely in a piece of cheese cloth, and through this THE FAMILY WORKROOM 403 dust it over the surface. Rub smooth- ly with a soft cloth. When dry, cover with copal varnish. Bronze for Leather. — Aniline vio- let mixed with a little water and ap- plied with a brush gives a beautiful bronze luster. To Bronze Paper. — Apply a size of glue or gum arable in water, and dust the powder over the surface. Lettering may be done by dipping the brush in the size, lettering quick- ly, and dusting on the powder before the size is dry. Printing is done in the same man- ner. Afterwards the letters should be burnished by going over them with a, smooth flatiron as hot as can be without scorching the paper. Bronze for Medals. — Mix crocus powder with water to a thin paste and apply with a brush. Afterwards heat the metal, and when cool polish. The depth of color depends upon the de- gree of heat. Heat the metal over an open lire. Or use powdered black lead in- stead of crocus powder. Or apply sulphuret of potassium. ELECTEOPLATING AlfD ELECTEO- TYPING Electroplating. — This process con- sists in covering, by means of an elec- tric current, the surface of articles composed of cheaper metals with more costly metals, as gold, silver, platinum, nickel, copper, etc. The process is the same as that employed in electrotyping. German sUver is perhaps the best metal to use as a basis in electropla- ting; but iron, zinc, pewter, and other metals may also be plated. Articles to be plated must first be cleaned and scoured to free them from rust or other impurities, then dipped in a solution of nitrate of mercury to give them a thin film of mercury, which causes the plating to adhere. They are then suspended in a bath con- taining a suitable solution, and treat- ed by means of the electric current as in electrotyping. After being re- moved, they are brushed and bur- nished. Electrotyping. — This is a process of making the cast or image of an object by gradually depositing metal from a solution by means of an elec- tric current. Electroplating is done on the same principle. Electrotyping or electroplating re- quires very little apparatus, and can be done very cheaply. / It is a prac- tical, useful, and instructive art or amusement. The principle is very simple. If, for example, two strips of clean platinum are suspended in a solution of sulphate of copper, no ac- tion takes place; but if these plati- num plates be connected with the op- posite poles of an electric battery the sulphate of copper solution will be decomposed, and the metallic copper will be deposited upon the plate or surface by which the electric current leaves the solution. This is the nega- tive pole of the electric battery. By reversing the direction of the current the copper will be sent back to the other plate, and it can thus be sent backward and forward indefinitely if the current be continually reversed. By adding more sulphate of cop- per to the solution and continuing the electric current, a metallic film of copper may be made of any required thickness, which may afterwards be peeled off the platinum plate if de- sired. The best conditions for copperpla- ting or electrotyping are a rather strong solution of sulphate of copper slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid and at a temperature of not less than 60°, with an electric current of low intensity. Gold and other metals may be substituted for copper by suitable solutions, as described under electro- plating. If an object having raised surfaces, as a coin or medal, be substituted for the strip of platinum at the negative pole of the battery, it will be covered with metal to any desired depth. This may afterwards be stripped off, thus giving an exact inverted impression of the object, corresponding to a die. 404 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES If this die or a cast taken from the object by means of plaster of Paris or wax be substituted for the plati- num plate at the negative pole of the battery, the depressions in its surface will be filled. Thus a solid casting or image of the object will be secured, and this is the usual method of elec- trotyping. Hence, to make a cast of an object by electrotyping, it is first necessary to make an impression of the object in wax or plaster of Paris. If plaster of Paris is used, the mold must be soaked in oil, tallow, or melted wax so that it will be impervious to water. The surface of the mold must then be brushed with a coating of black lead to make it a conductor of elec- tricity. Or if a cast of the object itself is to be made, only half of its surface can be electrotyped at one time, and the remainder must be cov- ered with sealing wax, varnish, or shellac. Molds for Electrotyping. — To make a mold for electrotyping, lay the mod- el on a flat surface and cover it with a coat of sweet oil or olive oil. Mix a little plaster of Paris with water to a thin paste and pour it over the model. Before the plaster of Paris sets, insert in it a wire ring from which the wire extends an inch or two to form a hook from which to suspend the mold in the solution. When the plaster sets, carefully re- move the model and paint the back of the mold and the edges, except where it is desired to have the metal deposited, with melted sealing wax, varnish, or shellac. Now brush black lead thoroughly into the mold so as to cover every portion of the surface and extend upward to , the wire on which the mold is to be suspended. Or soften wax or gutta percha with gentle heat and knead it over the model. Treat the impression thus formed in the same manner. Plaster Casts for Electrotyping. — To use plaster as a mold for electro- typing, dry it in an oven and boil it in a mixture of equal quantities of beeswax and rosin until it is satu- rated. Cool, and cover evenly with- a thin coating of black lead. Experiment for Electrotyping. — Take an ordinary leaf, lay it on a hard surface, and knead over it a bit of soft gutta percha or wax to make a mold. A little experimenting will secure a perfect impression. Remove the leaf, heat the end of a wire, and thrust it through the mold; brush the face of the mold with black lead, var- nish the back as above, and attach to the negative pole of a battery. Attach a piece of copper to the opposite pole, facing but not touching it, and cover both with a saturated solution of copper sulphate slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid. Thus a beau- tiful model may be taken which will show every detail of the leaf. Gold - plating Solution. — Mix 4 ounces of muriatic acid and 3 ounces of nitric acid; add 10 pennyweights of gold coin, 10 grains of pure cop- per, and 8 grains of pure silver. Shake until all is dissolved except a silver sediment. Add 1 ounce of pul- verized borax, 2 ounces of pulverized sulphate of iron, SO grains of salt, and 2 quarts of hot distilled water. Mix or shake vigorously. Let this mixture stand until all the metals have settled. When they have fully settled, pour off the liquor and wash the sediment perfectly clean, or until it ceases to be acid to the taste. This may be done by add- ing hot water, shaking, allowing it to settle, and pouring off the water as often as necessary. The sediment consists of the chloride of gold of about 18 karats fineness. Add 2J ounces of cyanuret of potassium, 3 quarts of boiling distilled water, shake well, and let stand a day or two, when it will be ready for use. Silver-plating Solution. — Shave 1 ounce of silver and cover with 3 ounces of pure nitric acid. Add dis- tilled water slowly, J ounce or less at a time, as the silver dissolves. Use as little water as possible, and when all dissolved stir in 3 ounces of salt dissolved in 3 pints of water. Stir or shake and let the solution settle. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 405 Wash the sediment until it is no lon- ger acid to the taste, add IJ ounces of cyanuret of potassium and 16 ounces of distilled water, and let stand a day or two before using. To Test Plated Metals. — To test silver plating on metals, dissolve J ounce of bichromate of potassium in nitric acid. Rub the surface to be tested with pure alcohol or ether to kill grease or varnish. Apply a drop of this mixture, and rinse the article in cold water. Pure silver is indi- cated by a blood-red stain; German silver by a brown stain which washes off; Britannia metal by a black stain; mercury by specks of red, which wash off; lead and bismuth by yellow stains; tin by a brown stain which turns yellow in water; and zinc by the active action of the liquid, the stain of which is soluble in water. Gold Plating without Electricity. — Dissolve 14 ounces of gold amal- gam in a mixture of 1 ounce of nitric acid and 2 ounces of muriatic acid. Add 6 ounces of alcohol and immerse the articles in this for about 15 minutes; apply the solution with a soft brush or cloth. The articles must first be cleaned by dipping them in dilute nitric acid or potash lye to remove grease and rust and to give an absolutely clean surface; oth- erwise the amalgam will not adhere. Rinse, dry in sawdust or prepared chalk, wipe clean with tissue paper, and polish with chamois skin. Or clean the articles as before, and apply gold amalgam with a fine, stiff brush. Set them in the oven and heat them until the mercury evapo- rates, when their color will be a dull yellow. Mix equal parts of pow- dered saltpeter and alum to a paste with water, and go over the gold coating with this mixture, using a brush. Apply heat until this solu- tion is melted, then plunge the arti- cles Into cold water and afterwards polish. Or dissolve i ounce of gold in 1 ounce of aqua regia, or a mixture of nitric and muriatic acids. Add 1 quart of soft water, and throw in gradually hyposulphite of soda in crystals. A brown sediment will form which will again dissolve if ad- ditional hyposulphite is added. When this has dissolved, add a little more hyposulphite and immerse small ar- ticles, or apply the solution by means of a brush or sponge. Or use this solution to touch up gilded articles where the gilding has worn or been taken off by accident. Apply by means of a brush, and at the moment touch the spot with the bright side of a. piece of shaving whittled from a piece of zinc. The above are suitable for silver, copper, or brass. Solutions for German-silver Pla- ting. — To make a solution for elec- troplating German silver and other metals, take the plate of German silver of a known composition and prepare a mixture of chlorides of the metals in the same proportion that they are found in the alloy. If, for example, the German silver consists of 1 part nickel, 1 part zinc, and 3 parts copper, dissolve 1 ounce of nickel, 1 ounce of zinc, and 2 ounces of copper in hydrochloric acid, and evaporate the excess of acid by gen- tle heat. Dissolve this solution in the water for the bath, and add slowly potassium cyanide. The metals will be first precipitated, but as the cy- anide solution is gradually added and the bath stirred, the metals will be redissolved. The solution will then be ready to apply, but to obtain the best results it should be raised to a temperature of at least 60°. The plate of German silver is suspended from the positive pole, and the arti- cle to be plated, suitably cleaned, from the negative pole. Brass Plating. — Prepare separate solutions of cyanide of potassium and neutral tartrate of ammonia in water, mix the two solutions for the bath, and add the cyanide of copper and zinc in the proportions desired for the alloy until the bath is satu- rated, or until they commence to pre- cipitate. Then add black oxide of copper and pure zinc white until the 406 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES bath has dissolved all it can. This admits of the use of a weak galvanic current. If the color of the brass is too light, a little more copper salt may be added, or if too dark, a little more zinc salt. A brass plate of the composition desired is connected with the positive pole of the battery, and the zinc or other metal to be coated, with the negative pole. The latter must, of course, be thoroughly cleaned with acids and by scrubbing to give a chemically clean surface for the deposit. Hints for Electroplating. — The process of electroplating with single metals, as copper, silver, gold, and the like, on various solid metals is very simple, but electroplating with aUoys, as German silver, brass, and the like, is somewhat more difBcult on account of the fact that the elec- tric current shows a tendency, if the bath is not properly prepared, to de- posit one of the metals contained in the alloy in preference to the others; hence some little experimenting will be required to succeed in electropla- ting witli alloys. A weak current gives the best re- sults with single metals, but with al- loys it tends to favor one of the metals at the expense of the others. A strong current tends to deposit a rough, thick film which is not tena- cious and does not adhere well to the article; hence care should be taken to prepare the solution for alloys exactly according to instruc- tion. The cyanide solution, which is al- ways used for the precious metals, will give better results with alloys than the sulphate solution used in copperplating. All objects to be elec- troplated must be carefully cleaned before they are put in the bath; hence they should be dipped in the mix- ture of nitric and muriatic acids to remove any oxides, rinsed in water, and, if necessary, scoured with pure water and sand. On removal from the bath after plating, they may be dried in sawdust, cleaned, and polished. Electroplating Silver on Iron. — To plate iron or steel, dissolve cyanide of potassium in soft water, using 1 pound of the cyanide to 1 quart of water. Dip the articles in pure sul- phuric acid, scrub with fine sand and a scouring brush, rinse with pure water, and suspend them in the cy- anide solution tmtil it becomes white. Remove and suspend in the silver so- lution. Or first coat the steel or iron with sulphate of copper by suspending it in a bath of sulphate of copper, and deposit the silver solution on this coating. To Plate Iron without Electricity. — To plate iron with silver without electricity, clean and smooth the sur- face with a burnisher, heat it to blue- ness, lay the silver leaf upon it and burnish it down. Continue adding silver leaf until the proper thickness Is secured. Or apply soldering liquid to the iron, and thin sheets of solder. Lay the silver over this, and heat gently until the solder melts. Or tin the iron. First lay tin foil over it, and silver leaf or thin sheets of silver over all, and melt the tin with gentle heat. Solution for Nickel Plating. — A pure solution of the double sulphate of nickel and ammonia gives a thick deposit with a smooth surface capa- ble of taking a high polish, but this solution must be chemically pure and free from foreign ingredients, espe- cially nitric acid, alkalies, and lime. If these are used to clean articles to be nickel plated, the utmost care must be used in rinsing them, as a drop of nitric acid will ruin the solution by causing the nickel plate to become black and streaked. Potash or soda gives a deposit of green oxide of nickel. Other metals, as copper, zinc, and arsenic, must also be avoided. Instead of a pure nickel plate at the positive pole of the battery, better results are obtained by a plate com- posed of nickel combined with car- bon, and such casting nickel plates are now obtainable on the market. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 407 LACQTTEB 7011 UETALS lacquers are of two sorts: (1) spirit varnishes or lac varnishes, composed of the gums copal, san- darac, mastic, shellac, or anime in the form of true solutions with al- cohol or wood spirits, and the like; and (2) Japanese or Chinese lacquer work, properly called lacquer, but often referred to as "japan." The latter frequently does not contain any lac at all, but is formed of the juice of various nonresinous trees. The spirit varnishes or lacquers for metals are used to give a gold color to articles of brass or other base met- als; hence these varnishes are colored with tinctures of gummigutta, drag- on's blood, gamboge, coralline, picric acid, turmeric, Martins yellow, and annotto. A suitable varnish for this purpose consists of 1 ounce of seed-lac, 2 ounces of sandarac, 2 ounces of elemi, and 20 ounces of alcohol, to be colored as desired. Or a good gold lacquer for brass work consists of 6 ounces of seed- lac, 2 ounces of turmeric, J ounce of dragon's blood, and 1 quart of al- cohol. The following proportions are rec- ommended : Gold Lacquer. — Mix 8 ounces of turmeric, i ounce of gamboge, IJ pounds of sandarac, and 8 ounces of white lac powdered, and dissolve in 1 gallon of alcohol. Add IJ pints of turpentine varnish, and bottle and cork closely for use. Or mix seed-lac, 6 ounces ; turmeric, 2 ounces; dragon's blood, IJ ounces, and cover with alcohol, 1 quart. Put the mixture in a glass fruit jar, close tightly, and let stand in a warm place, shaking frequently until dissolved. Heat the mixture, and strain through silk or coarse filter paper. Or put 1 ounce of oil of lavender in a glass bottle, and add 3 ounces of turpentine and J ounce of pulverized gum copal. Cork tightly and let stand in a warm place, shaking occasionally until dissolved. Or 1 ounce of gum lac, 1 ounce of gamboge, 1 ounce of dragon's blood, 1 ounce of annotto, and i ounce of saffron. Dissolve each separately in 2 ounces of alcohol. Mix the resins, and add slowly the coloring matter until the proper shade is obtained. Gold Lacquer for Tin. — Put in a glass bottle 8 ounces of alcohol; add 1 ounce of gum shellac, J ounce of turmeric, and J ounce of red sanders. Cork, set in a warm place, and let stand until dissolved, shaking occa- sionally. Heat the mixture, strain through silk, and bottle and cork tightly for use. Transparent Lacquer. — Dry in an oven 10 or 12 ounces of animal char- coal. Put it in a metal boiler and pour over it S ounces of shellac dis- solved in 1 quart of alcohol, and bring the solution to a boil. Test the mix- ture by letting a drop cool on a glass plate. If not perfectly transparent, add more charcoal. When the mix- ture is clarified, strain through sUk and filter paper. FBECIOTTB METALS— GOLD AND SILVER Gold. — Gold is probably the earli- est known of the metals, and one of the most widely distributed. It is among the heaviest, softest, and most malleable. It occurs in nearly all the great mountain ranges and in sea water. United States gold coin con- sists of 90 parts pure gold and 10 parts copper and silver alloy. Silver as an alloy gives a pale shade to gold, and copper a reddish color. Thus the red gold of watch chains and jewelry is alloyed with copper. These alloys are harder than pure gold, which is too soft to wear well in coin or orna- ments. The amount of alloy in jew- elry varies from 10 per cent to 50 per cent or more. The ratio between gold and its alloys indicates its fine- ness, and may be expressed either in thousandths or karats. Pure gold is 1,000 fine, or 24 karats fine. United States gold is 900 fine. The karat is a weight of 3.17 grains; 408 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES troy, and is the standard used in weighing precious stones. As em- ployed to express the fineness of gold, it represents j'j part of the pure metal. This is the older form still used by jewelers and the British mint. On this basis equal parts of gold and other metals is said to be 12 karat fine. Sixteen parts of alloy make an 8 karat gold, and so on. Common gold jewelry is usually 14 karat fine, but a better quality is 18 karat. The for- mer is usually of a darker shade, due to the larger percentage of copper. Pure gold is more than nineteen times as heavy as water. One cubic inch of pure gold weighs 10.13883 ounces troy, and is valued at $209.38. In calculating the value of bullion, 387 ounces troy are considered to be worth $8,000, hence 1 ounce is worth $20.6718 +. Gold is extremely malleable, as is shown by the fineness of gold leaf used in gilding. Gold does not rust or tarnish by exposure to weather or to gases, and is very difficult to dis- solve. Ornaments found in ancient tombs remain unchanged. Gold may be dissolved in chlorine, or a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids. This is known as aqua regia, or the " royal liquid," as gold was called by the al- chemists " the royal metal," and this mixture was thought by them to be the only solvent capable of attack- ing it. Gold is sometimes alloyed with the rare metal palladium, and with plati- num. These give a hard and very elastic alloy. Mercury unites freely with gold to form an amalgam. The value of gold as money rests not only on its beauty and durability, but also upon the fact that it cannot be ob- tained without a certain amount of human labor, and this fact helps to determine its value and establish a re- lation between it and other commodi- ties. Hence gold is at once a measure of the labor performed and the re- ward of labor. Enormous amounts of gold are used in the arts and con- sumed by the wear of coin and jew- elry. Approximately one sixth of the annual production of gold is estima- ted to be used for purposes other than coinage. Gold leaf. — One ounce of gold may be beaten out so thin as to cover 189 square feet of surface, but this is not customary, 1,000 square feet to the ounce troy being the usual measure. Ordinary gold leaf is so thin as to require 282,000 sheets to make a pile an inch high. At this thinness it transmits a, light somewhat the same as would be given by a piece of green glass. One grain of gold may be drawn into a wire 500 feet long. Gold leaf is used in gilding and by dentists in filling teeth. The art of gold beating is known to but few. For dentists' use the gold is perfectly pure, but for gilders' use various alloys of silver and copper are added, according to color. The gold is first rolled into ribbons, of which 700 are required to make an inch in height, and then placed be- tween the leaves of a little book made of parchment, which is laid on a stone anvil and beaten by workmen with a 16-pound round hammer having a, broad, round face. Several other proc- esses are required, all of which are done by hand. When completed, the gold leaf is placed in books or tissue paper 3J inches square, the leaves of which are rubbed with red ocher to prevent the gold from sticking. Each of these holds 25 leaves or 5i grains of gold. Torn gold leaf may be mended by laying another torn leaf on the top of the first and making a cut near the center by means of a thin, sharp strip of reed. The leaves unite along the line of the cut by their own weight, and if skillfully done no trace of the welding is visible. To Alloy Gold.— For 18 karat gold, melt together 18 gold, 4 copper, 3 sil- ver, if the metals are pure. Or 19J gold coin, 3 copper, IJ silver. For 16 karat, if pure, 16 gold, 5i silver, \ copper. Or 17 gold coin, 5 copper, 2 silver. For 13 karat, 36 gold coin, 13J cop- per, 8J sUver. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 409 For 4 karat, 16 copper, 4 gold, 2 silver. This last, of course, is used only for cheap jewelry, but it is hard- er and more durable than the better grades, and is more suitable for stick- pins and the like. To Make Gold Powder.— Mix gold leaf with honey or a, solution of gum arable, and rub the mixture in a mor- tar until the gold is sufficiently fine. Dilute the solution with water, and decant or wash on filter paper until the pure gold remains. Alloy of Gold. — Melt 7J parts of pure gold and add J part of plati- num. This alloy is whiter than gold, but ductile, elastic, and much less perishable than pure gold or the bet- ter grades of gold used for jewelry. It melts readily, however, and is solu- ble in nitric acid. Artificial Gold. — Sixteen platinum, 7 copper, 1 zinc. Melt in a crucible, cover with powdered charcoal, and mix with saltpeter and sal ammoniac. Or 4 platinum, 2J copper, 1 zinc, 3 tin, 1^ lead. Or 3 platinum, 1 silver, 3 copper. If the resulting mixture is not per- fectly homogeneous, it may be hard and brittle. In that case melt down with sal ammoniac. Repeat if neces- sary. These alloys very closely re- semble gold. Gold Solder. — Six gold, 1 silver, 3 copper. Use the pure metals. Melt together. Or 14 gold, 1 silver, 1 copper. This is a soft gold solder which may be made softer by adding brass, but this makes it liable to oxidize. Or 7 silver, 1 copper with borax. Or 3 gold, 1 silver, 1 copper. Or 3 gold, 3 silver, 1 copper, J zinc. Platinum Solder. — Use pure gold with borax. Gold Amalgam. — This consists of 8 parts gold to 1 part mercury, and is used principally in gilding. Heat in a crucible the gold in thin strips to near the melting point, and add to it the mercury. The two metals will unite, boiling vigorously. When cold, the amalgam is ready to use. Gilding. — On account of its beauty, and the fact that it will not rust or corrode from exposure to the air, a thin film of gold is often applied to silver or cheaper metals, wood, paper, leather, and other materials for deco- rative purposes. This may be done in three different ways: by means of gold powder, gold leaf, or by a solli- tion, an amalgam, or a mixture of gold in liquid form. To Gild Metals. — Dissolve in water 8 ounces of niter, 8 ounces of com- mon salt, and S ounces of alum. Dis- solve J ounce of gold separately in 1 ounce of aqua regia, and evaporate with gentle heat to dryness. Mix the settlings with alcohol or ether. Dip the articles to be gilded in the niter, salt, and alum solution, and brush them over with the ethereal solution of gold. Or dip the articles in the ethereal solution. Remove and allow the ether to evaporate. Steel cutting instruments given a thin coat of gold by this method will be preserved from rust, or lettering may be done by means of this solu- tion on iron or steel. Or the articles may be washed with a solution of nitrate of mercury, and an amalgam of gold and mercury ap- plied with a brush. They must then be heated to drive off the mercury in the form of vapor. Or make a saturated solution of gold and aqua regia, and soak fine linen rags in it until it is all absorbed. Carefully dry these and burn them to tinder. Polish the article to be gilt, dip a brush in a solution of common salt in water, then into this tinder, and rub over the surface of the articles. Or expose articles of iron, steel, copper, or other hard metal to a blu- ing heat. Lay on gold leaf and bur- nish gently. Continue the heat and add gold leaf until the desired thick- ness has been obtained. Cool and burnish. Gilding by Amalgam, — Take J ounce troy of fine gold, 1 ounce of nitric acid, | ounce of hydrochloric acid, and soft water J ounce. Put all in a glass vessel and heat gently in a 410 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES double boiler until the fumes cease to rise. Add 30 ounces of water, boil for 3 hours, let it settle, and pour off the clear liquor from the sedi- ment for use. Clean and polish the articles to be gilt, and suspend them in this liquor by means of a fine wire or a horsehair. When sufSciently gilt, wash in pure water. Gilding: oa Silver, or Grecian Gild- ing. — Dissolve equal parts of sal am- moniac and corrosive sublimate or bi- chloride of mercury, in nitric acid, and dissolve a suitable amount of gold in this solution. Evaporate the ex- cess of acid with gentle heat until the mixture is as thick as cream. When the gold is dissolved, brush the silver articles with the mixture, which will turn them black, but on exposing them to a red heat the mercury will be driven off in the form of vapor and the gold will remain. Or dip the articles in salt water, and rub them with ashes of linen rags previously dipped in a solution of gold in aqua regia. Or dip the articles in the solution of gold. To Color Gilding. — To 1 pint of water add 4 ounces of pure saltpeter, 3 ounces of alum, and 2 ounces of common salt. Apply to gilt articles with a brush to improve the color. Or cover the articles with a mix- ture of wax, verdigris, and blue vitriol, expose to a red heat, and polish. Or boil the articles in a solution of equal parts of common salt and cream of tartar. Gold Powder for Gilding. — Mix gold leaf with honey or with a solu- tion of gum arable in water, and grind in a mortar imtil the gold is finely powdered. Dilute the mixture with water and pour it off from the sediment, or wash the gold on filter paper, and dry. Or dissolve pure gold or gold leaf in aqua regia, and introduce a piece of copper to precipitate the gold. Or add a little sulphate of iron. If copper is used, mix the sediment In distilled vinegar, wash by pouring water over it on filter paper, and dry. This is a much finer powder than can be prepared by grinding in honey. Size for Gilding on Glass or China. -^Dissolve J ounce of isinglass in 4 ounces of boiling water. When dis- solved, cool and add 2 ounces of al- cohol. Mix gold powder with borax in a thick solution of gum arable dis- solved in water. Dip the glass in the size, and paint or trace the design by means of a camel's-hair brush. Bake the articles in a hot oven until the borax is melted, when the gold wiU be fixed on the gleiss. Or paint or trace the design in a size of copal varnish. Dissolve with gentle heat 1 ounce of copal in 1 ounce of boiled linseed oil, and thin with oil of turpentine until the solu- tion can be freely applied with a brush. Heat the glass as hot as it can be handled, paint the design in the varnish, and lay on a piece of gold leaf. When dry, brush off the superfluous leaf, which will not stick to the part of the glass not varnished, and when cold burnish as usual. To Remove Gilding on Glass or China. — Mix soft water, 1 ounce; nitric acid, 1 ounce; common salt, J ounce; sal annnoniac, J ounce. Bring the mixture to a boil, and put the articles in it or apply it to them with a stiff brush. To Handle Gold Leaf. — Wax smooth sized paper and slip pieces between the leaves of the book of gold leaf, pressing each piece smoothly with the hand so that the gold leaf will be brought in contact with the waxed surface. Held in this way the gold leaf will not fall or be blown away by a draught, however strong. Oil Gilding on Wood. — First apply to the wood two or three coats of boiled linseed oil and carbonate of lead. This fills the pores and gives a smooth surface. Dry thoroughly and apply a thin coat of gold size, con- sisting of red oxide of lead ground in boiled linseed oil, which should be as thick and hard as possible. Thin with turpentine and apply with a brush. Let stand about twelve hours, THE FAMILY WORKROOM 411 or until nearly dry. Then apply the gold. To handle the gold leaf, make a. cushion of several thicknesses of flan- nel cloth, tack it on a piece of wood, and cover it tightly and smoothly with chamois skin. On this lay the sheet of gold, and with a hlunt pallet knife or reed cut it into strips the width of the wood. Take up these strips on the bristle points of a fine brush, ap- ply them, and smooth them gently with a wad of absorbent cotton. So continue, and as the size sets brush off the last particles of gold leaf with a camel's-hair brush. Let stand two or three days to dry completely. This method is chiefly useful for out-of- door work as the gold leaf cannot tar- nish and is not injured by changes of weather, exposure to the air, or mois- ture. For inside work, as picture frames which require burnishing, boil down to a stiff jelly pieces of white leather, as an old kid glove or parchment clip- pings, and apply a thick coat with a brush. Mix with this size a little fine plaster of Paris or prepared chalk, and apply eight or ten coats of this mixture, letting each coat dry be- fore the next is applied. Then lay on a thick coat of the same size mixed with Armenian bole or yellow oxide of lead, and to this apply the gold leaf in strips with a brush, and rub down with a cotton ball. Burnish as soon as the size sets, and before the work is fully dry, by means of a smooth piece of agate or ivory. This method of gilding is suitable only to indoor work, as dampness will cause the gold to peel. Clean by brushing with hot alcohol or oil of turpentine. To Gild Ivory.-^Immerse the ivory in a solution of gold in aqua regia, and while damp expose to hydrogen gas, and immediately wash in clear water. Or prepare a fresh solution of pro- tosulphate of iron, dip the ivory in this, and then in a solution of chloride of gold. To Gild Shells. — Grind gold leaf into a solution of gum arabic in water, and apply to the shells with a brush. To Gild Silks and Satins. — Trace or paint the desired design with a solution of gold in aqua regia diluted with 3 parts of water, and expose the design while wet to a stream of hy- drogen gas. Rinse in clear water. Hydrogen gas is evolved by the de- composition of water containing sul- phuric acid and iron filings. If the wet cloth is held in these fumes the painted designs will shortly come out in pure gold, and will not tarnish on exposure to the air or inf washing. To Gild live Fish. — Smear the in- side of an earthen bowl with white pitch, warm it gently, and scatter pul- verized amber over the pitch. Re- move from the fire, add 3 pounds of oleum lini and 1 pound of oleum tere- binth mixed together. Cover and boil for 1 hour with gentle heat. Mix with pumice stone to the consistency of paint. Take a live fish from the water, dry it by means of a cloth, and apply this paint with a brush. Immediately spread gold leaf over it, and rub dry with a soft cloth. Re- turn the fish to the water. The lon- ger this varnish is under water the harder it grows, and it does the fish no harm. To Gild leather. — Lettering and other designs are stamped on leather, as in bookbinding, by means of gold leaf and suitable tools or stamps. The leather is dusted with finely pow- dered rosin or gum mastic. The tool is first heated in an open fire, the heat of which is tested by means of a piece of waste leather. A little experience is required to gauge the degree of heat required. A suitable piece of gold leaf is cut on a leather pad or cushion, properly applied, and the tool pressed down upon it. The de- sign will be indented in the leather, the rosin melted, and the gold leaf caused to adhere. After the designs have all been stamped, wipe off the superfluous gold leaf with a slightly greasy linen cloth, which will cause the excess of gold to adhere. This cloth may be burned 412 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES and the ash used for gilding, or it may be sold to refiners or allowed for when purchasing additional gold leaf. To Gild Paper. — To gild the edges of books or other paper, fasten them in a vise in a horizontal position and apply a size of 4 ounces of Armenian .bole and 1 ounce of rock sugar dis- solved in water and mixed with the white of egg. This size when nearly dry is smoothed with an agate bur- nisher, and then slightly moistened with a sponge wrung out of clear water. The gold leaf is cut to the proper width on a cushion, laid on the moistened surface, and when dry bur- nished by rubbing with the agate bur- nisher from end to end. Or the burnishing is sometimes done over a piece of silk or India paper. A pad of cotton wool is used to lift the gold leaf from the cushion. To Design in Gold on paper or parchment, dilute common ink with a little glue size. Form the design with this, and when dry moisten slightly with the breath. This will make the leather slightly sticky and cause gold leaf to adhere. Or grind white lead or chalk with a strong size, and apply with a brush. Lay on the gold leaf before this dries, and afterwards burnish. Or mix gold powder with size, and letter with a brush. This method is supposed to have been used by the monks in il- luminating missals, psalters, and ru- brics. Regildlng. — To renew gilt molding tarnished by dirt or moisture, apply u weak solution of salts of tartar in water with a soft cloth, and rinse with cold water. Or, to regild molding, rub down the molding with a moistened cloth dipped in pumice stone. Apply a coat of shellac varnish and a suitable gold size. Cut gold leaf on a leather cush- ion to the proper size and lay on by means of a camel's-hair brush, letting the leaf slightly overlap. Burnish with agate or ivory, let stand a day or two to dry, and cover with shellac or copal varnish. Or, instead of gold leaf, apply bronze powder, and when dry coat with copal varnish. Or, to retouch gilt frames, apply isinglass size to chipped or broken places, and when it becomes tacky lay on gold leaf gently with a pad of cotton wool, and when dry burnish. Or retouch with gold paint by means of a camel's-hair brush. Silver. — Silver is the whitest of the metals capable of taking a brilliant polish. It is malleable and ductile. The finest silver leaf requires 1,000,- 000 sheets to make an inch in thick- ness. A grain of silver may be drawn into a wire 400 feet in length. Silver is ten or eleven times as heavy as water, according to condition and purity. Melted silver absorbs from the air about twenty times its volume of oxygen, which is given oflF when the metal solidifies. As the surface tends to cool first, the ejection of this oxy- gen from the inner part of the mass may cause an explosion. Hence it is customary to melt silver under pow- dered charcoal or in the presence of niter. Silver conducts heat and elec- tricity, and can be welded and alloyed with gold, copper, and other metals. In addition to its use in coinage, which is very ancient, silver is largely used for tableware and jewelry, but solid silver is now replaced largely by alloys of nickel and other metals, which are covered with pure silver by elec- troplating. Silver coin contains a pro- portion of alloy, usually copper. The United States and French standard of fineness is 900, or 900 parts of silver to 100 of copper. In Great Britain the standard is .935. This is the fine- ness of sterling silverware. Among the compounds of silver, sil- ver chloride is used in photography, and silver nitrate, or lunar caustic, is used in surgery, photography, elec- troplating, and for marking inks. Silver Jewelry. — Common jewelry contains a portion of iilloy, according to the degree of hardness required. Sterling silver contains 925 parts sil- ver, 75 parts copper. The hardest al- loy contains 4 silver, 1 copper. A medium hard alloy, 3 sterling silver. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 413 1 brass wire. A soft alloy, 2 pure silver, 1 brass wire. Silver Solder. — Silver 19, copper 1, brass 10. Or silver 3, brass 1 with borax. Or silver 4, brass 3, zinc /j- with borax. For silver plate, silver 2, brass 1 with borax. To Purify Silver.— To obtain pure silver, dissolve silver containing alloy in nitric acid, and add a solution of common salt as long as a precipitate is formed. Boil the sediment in water in a bright iron vessel, wash with clean water, and dry. Silver Tree. — Dissolve 1 ounce of nitrate of silver in 35 ounces of dis- tilled water. Filter and put the liquid in a suitable glass vessel where it will not be disturbed. Pour in 1 ounce of. mercury. A beautiful silver tree will form. United States Mint Test for Coun- terfeit Silver. — Dissolve 24 grains of nitrate of silver in 30 drops of nitric acid and 1 ounce of water. Scrape the coin to be tested and apply a drop of the liquid. If it turns black, reject it. To Clean Silver. — To clean orna- ments of jewelry and silver, put the articles in suds made of castile soap in hot water and bring to a boil. Re- move from the fire and let the articles stand in the suds until they will bear the hands, then scrub gently with a soft toothbrush or jeweler's brush, rinse in clear water, dip in benzine or alcohol, place in an earthenware bowl or other utensil, and cover with box- wood shavings. Let this stand in a warm place until the articles are per- fectly dry. Any moisture remaining on them causes them to tarnish. When not in use they should be put in a wooden box and covered with fine sawdust. Silvering. — A thin coating of me- tallic silver may be added to other metals, glass, textile fabrics, and other materials, either in various mixtures in liquid form or by means of silver powder or silver leaf. For a silver solution without elec- tricity, dissolve nitrate of silver in soft water, using 1 ounce of silver to 1 quart of water. Add slowly hy- posulphite of soda in crystals, stir- ring the mixture with a glass rod. A brown precipitate will form, but if additional hyposulphite is added, it will again dissolve. A little more hy- posulphite should then be added. The articles to be silvered may be dipped in this solution, or it may be applied to them with a brush or sponge. Or this mixture may be evaporated with gentle heat to the consistency of paint, and used to retouch plated ar- ticles where the plate has been worn off. Apply it by means of a camel's- hair brush, and at the same moment touch the spot with the bright edge of a zinc shaving freshly cut. Or mix equal parts by weight of cream of tartar and nitrate of silver. Moisten with water and rub on the surface to be plated. Or mix 1 ounce of chloride of sil- ver, 3 ounces of pearlash, IJ ounces of common salt, and 1 ounce of whit- ing. Apply this mixture to the metal with chamois or a piece of cork mois- tened with water and dipped in the powder. Apply all that will stay on. Then dip the articles in hot water con- taining a little borax, and wipe' dry. Or dissolve 20 grains of silver in nitric acid, and insert a piece of cop- per to cause the silver to be thrown down. Mix this powdered silver with 2 drams of tartar, 2 drams of com- mon salt, and J dram of alum. Mois- ten a cork or piece of chamois, dip in this mixture, and rub over the ar- ticles to be silvered. To Silver Cloth. — To silver silk, woolen, cotton, or other fabrics, wash the articles and rinse in clean water. Dip them in a saturated solution of gallic acid. Remove and dip quickly in a solution of 1 part of nitric acid to SO parts of distilled water. Dip alternately in the two solutions until the articles instead of being dark in color take on a brilliant hue. Then pour the two solutions together and immerse the articles until they are completely silvered. Remove and boil 414 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES in a solution of salts of tartar in water, rinse, and dry. To Silver Shells. — Grind silver leaf into a solution of gum arable in water, and apply with a brush. To Silver Glass Globes. — Melt to- gether equal parts of tin and lead, and while melted add 2 parts bismuth and 3 parts mercury. Remove from the fire, and when cool enough not to break the glass pour the mixture into the globe, and move it slowly about so that the amalgam will pass over every part of its interior. This will leave a thin film wherever it touches the glass. Or melt 1 part tin, 1 part lead, 1 part bismuth, and 3 parts mercury. Or to pure mercury add tin foil as long as the mercury remains liquid. Or melt together 1 part lead and 1 part tin; add 1 part bismuth and 10 parts mercury. The more mercury is added the more brilliant will be the silvering. To Silver Ivory. — Prepare sepa- rately a saturated solution of gallic acid and a solution of 1 part of ni- trate of silver to SO parts of soft water. Apply these two solutions al- ternately to articles of ivory, paper, and other materials to be silvered, untU the proper coating is secured. Rinse with clear water, and dry with gentle heat. Or prepare a weak solution of ni- trate of silver, and in this immerse the ivory until it takes on a deep-yel- low color. Remove and place it in clear water and let it stand in direct sunshine for three or four hours, or until it turns completely black. Pol- ish briskly with dry chamois, and a bright-sUver color wUI appear. CHAPTER XV THE FAMILY WORKROOM Part Four — Leather, Ink, and Miscellaneous TANNING LEATHER— COLORING AND CARE OF LEATIIER— BOOTS AND SHOES — OVERSHOES — WATER-PROOFING LEATHER — BLACKING LEATHER— WRITING INK— MARKING INKS— COL- ORED INKS— SPECIAL INKS— CARE OF INK— CARE OF JEWELRY —GLASS AND IVORY— GYPSUM. ALABASTER, ETC. TANNING LEATHEE Leather is a combination of the hides of animals with substances which preserve it and make it useful in the arts and manufactures. The art of tanning is very ancient. Abra- ham is described in the Old Testa- ment as giving Hagar a water bottle of leather, which it is supposed must have been tanned with bark. Speci- mens of leather tanned with alum have been found in China that are at least 3,000 years old. Hide may be converted into leather in three ways: either by the use of astringents, as bark galls and the like; or by the use of some mineral — alum, chrome, or other — as a preservative; or by the use of oU. The leather of commerce consists of heavy grades in two classes, sole and upper; skins used for decorative purposes; and others. The hides of fur-bearing ani- mals are also tanned with the fur on. Hides are bought by weight either "dry" or "green-salted," the latter being freshly skinned and salted down to prevent decay. Both kinds before being tanned are soaked from four to ten days in the tannery to moisten the fibers and get them as near to the natural state as possible. The hides are then either sweated or limed. Sweating leather consists in hanging the hides in a warm, moist room to loosen the root hairs so that they can be taken oflf with a knife or machine. Liming con- sists in immersing the hides from four to six days in quicklime, slaked and diluted with water. Limed hides are held superior to sweated hides. The hides are next immersed in a solution of dung, which contains some of the pepsin and pancreatin or digestive juices formed in the animals. This solution partly digests the hide. The object of soaking, liming, and bating is to remove all the soft substances which naturally occur among the fibers of the leather, leaving nothing but the network of clean fiber for the tanning liquor to act upon. When the hide is finally immersed in the tanning liquor, tlie substance called tannin penetrates into the fiber and changes it to chemically pure leather. Or, if alum, chrome, zinc, or man- ganese is used in the form of a metal- lic salt, as copperas, sulphate of lime, bichromate of potash, sulphate of zinc, or permanganate of potash, it simply penetrates and surrounds the fiber in such a way as to keep the air from getting to it. The effect of oil is somewhat similar, as it penetrates the leather and surrounds the fibers with an air-proof and waterproof coating. Tanning Materials. — Tannin is found in two classes of materials: one, the natural bark of various trees, 415 416 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES as oak, hemlock, sumac, etc.; the oth- er, in certain abnormal growths on various trees caused by diseases and the stings of insects, as, for example, galls. Oak bark contains about 10 per cent of tannin. Hemlock bark and pine bark, which are cheaper than oak and make an equally strong and durable leather, contain 7 to 12 per cent. Gambia, imported from Singa- pore, consists of the leaves of a large bush boiled and formed into blocks. Sumac, which contains IS to 25 per cent of tannin, consists of the leaves of the sumac bush ground to powder and packed in bags. These are tlie principal tanning materials used in the United States. Galls are diseased excrescences pro- duced on the leaves of OEtk, sumac, and other trees by the stings of in- sects. Apple galls contain 60 to 75 per cent of tannin; istrien, 32 per cent; Persian, 30 per cent; Chinese, 80 per cent. Kopperin, which is similar to galls, is found on the acorn or leaf of the oak tree, es- pecially the steel oak of Hungary, and is imported from Austria. It contains 37 to 33 per cent of tannin. Tanning Extracts. — The tanning extracts dissolved in cold water give better results in color, quicker tan- nage, and better weight than the barks themselves. Hence these are commonly used to strengthen weak bark liquors. Oak, chestnut, pine, hemlock, and other extracts are on fhe market and are used in very large quantities. Hence, to tan hides, soak the hide from four to ten days, or until soft and pliable. Immerse in a thin milk- of-lime solution until the hair can be easily removed. Scrape the hide with a knife, remove all flesh with a shav- ing knife, and thoroughly wash the hide to remove the lime. Soak in a solution of gum at 96° to 100° F., and finally immerse in a tan pit contain- ing bark and water or a solution of tanning extract, according to the char- acter of the skin and strength of the tanning material employed. It will be seen that the commercial process requires suitable facilities and con- siderable experience. But to tan undressed hide on the farm, spread the skin flesh side up, and apply equal parts of saltpeter and ammonia in powdeJed form sprinkled evenly over the surface. RoU the skin up and let stand a few days unta dissolved. Scrape off any flesh that remains, nail the skin to the sides of ' a building or a board fence, stretch tightly, and apply lib- erally warm neat's-foot oil with a brush. Let stand in the sun, and finally rub out all the oil you can with a wedge-shaped stick. This is the method of tanning with the hair on. Or immerse the skin in thin milk of lime 4 or S days, scrape off the hair and any flesh remaining, and wash to free from lime. Plunge the skin into a solution of bran and water, and let stand for 2 days. Pre- pare an astringent liquor by boil- ing i pound of apple galls, IJ ounces of Bengal catechu, and 6 pounds of tormentil or septfoil. Soak in 17 gal- lons of water for 1 hour. Take the skin from the bran water and plunge in this liquor. Handle it several times a day for 3 or 4 days, let it stand 3 or 4 days undisturbed, and then handle three or four times the next day. Finally let it lie undis- turbed for a month, and the tanning will be completed. To Tan Fur Skins. — Soak the skins and scrape flesh and the fatty matter from the flesh side. When clear, im- merse in warm water for an hour. Mix for each skin J ovmce of borax, saltpeter, and Glauber's salts with water to a thin paste, and apply to the flesh side with a brush, suiting the coat to the thickness of the skin. Lay the skins, flesh sides together, in a cool place. After twenty-four hours wash them clean. Melt slowly together with gentle heat 1 ounce of sal soda, J ounce of borax, and 2 ounces of castile soap. Apply with a brush. Fold the skins, flesh sides together, and let them stand in a warm place 24 hours. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 417 Finally soak them for 12 hours in a solution of 4 ounces of alum, 8 ounces of salt, and 2 ounces of sal- eratus, with hot water enough to cov- er them. ^The water should not be hotter than the hands can bear. Af- ter 12 hours take out the skins, wring out the water, and let them dry. Repeat the last process, if neces- sary, until the skins are soft. Finally moisten a cloth in warm water, dip it in pumice stone, and rub the inside. To Tan Sheepskins and Goatskins with the Hair on. — Clean the flesh side of fat and meat, mix i pound of alum and i pound of salt in 2 quarts of water, and soak the skins in this mixture 24 hours. Remove and nail to the sunny side of a building, flesh side out, until bone dry. Mix 2 pounds of pulverized alum, 1 pound of salt, and 1 quart of wheat bran with water to a thick paste, and ap- ply evenly to the flesh side of the skin. Fold the skins in the middle with the flesh sides together, roll up, and put away for 6 or 8 days, pro- tected from water and vermin. Then brush away the mixture, apply neat's- foot oil warm with a brush, and rub the skin between the hands until it is pliable. Or wash the skins with strong suds and water to remove dirt from the wool, soak them over night in soap and water, and tack them, flesh side down, over a barrel to dry. When nearly dry, remove them, clean off any pieces of flesh or fat that remain, and rub prepared chalk over the skin un- til no more can be rubbed in. Then rub with powdered alum, and sprinkle alum thickly over the flesh side. Or, instead of chalk and alum, rub the skins with a mixture of saltpeter and alum, afterwards fold the skins with the flesh sides together, roll them up tightly and lay them away for a week where they will be perfectly dry. Finally rub down the flesh side with a damp cloth dipped in pumice or rotten stone to smooth and polish. This is a suitable treatment for coon. squirrel, and other skins used for caps, for sheepskins and goatskins used for rugs, for lambskins used for coats and vests, and for all similar purposes. COLOBIITG AND CASE OF LEATHER Grain Side Black for Leather. — Throw into a tight tub or cask a quantity of old iron; fill it nearly full of salt water, and add 1 pint of sul- phuric acid. Stir occasionally with a stick, and in a month or two it will be first-rate blacking for the grain side of leather. This is also suitable for boot, shoe, and harness edges. Or dissolve 2 ounces of ground log- wood and 12 ounces of bablah in 13J pounds of water. Boil down to 6i pounds, and filter through cheese cloth, and add 1 ounce of powdered gum arable, 1 ounce of sugar, and 3 ounces of copperas. Add also 1 or 2 drams of corrosive sublimate to pre- vent mold. Or boil i ounce of extract of log- wood in 2 quarts of water 2 or 3 min- utes. Remove from the fire, and add 96 grains of gum arable, 48 grains of bichromate of potash, and 8 grains of prussiate of potash. Or mix 1 pint of alcohol with J ounce of sweet oil. Add IJ ounces of tincture of iron, 1 ounce of extract of logwood, 1 ounce of pulverized nutgalls, and i pint of water. This gives a very fine finish, but is some- what expensive. Or, to blacken tan leather, make a saturated solution of copperas in water and apply with a swab or brush. To Dye Leather. — To dye leather blue, steep it in an indigo bath. For red, steep it in alum water and pass it through a warm decoction of Brazil wood. For purple, steep the skins in alum water, then in a warm decoction of logwood. For yellow, apply a dilute solution of picric acid with the alum. For green, apply first picric acid and afterwards aniline blue. But in all of the above the liquor must not 418 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES exceed the temperature of 70 per cent, or it will prevent the dye from penetrating the leather. Care of Harness. — Wash harness frequently with a sponge or cham- ois and warm water, but without soap, and apply oil before the leather is fully dry. The use of varnishes should as a rule be omitted, but the harness should be frequently wiped over with a cloth moistened in a good harness oil, as neat's-foot or castor oil, or a combination of 1 part castor oil with 2 parts neat's-foot oil; or a mixture of 1 pint of neat's-foot oil, 3 ounces of beef tallow, and IJ table- spoonfuls of lampblack. To this add 2 ounces of beeswax for summer use. Care of leather Furniture. — To restore leather furniture, first wash the leather with a sponge and warm water to remove the dirt. Or wash the leather with a cloth wrung out of hot milk, and varnish with the white of an egg. Or apply a thin coating of cream, and rub off with a soft cloth. Or rub with a small piece of pre- pared wax. Or take 6 ounces of eggs, yolks and whites beaten together, 1 ounce of molasses, 1 ounce of isinglass, and 5 ounces of water. Dissolve the isinglass in the water with gentle heat, mix with the. other ingredients, and color with lampblack. Or beat together the yolks of 2' eggs and the white of 1, add 1 table- spoonful of alcohol and 1 teaspoon- ful of sugar, and thicken with ivory black. The two last, of course, apply only to black leather. They are suit- able for leather belts, leather bags, and all black leather objects or arti- cles. To Remove Grease from Leather. — To remove grease and oil stains from leather, apply pipe clay pow- dered, and mixed with water to a thick cream. Let stand two or three hours, and repeat if necessary. Or apply the white of an egg to the stain, and dry in the sun. Or make a paste of boiled mealy potatoes, vinegar, and turpentine. Apply to the stain, let dry, and rub off. Or sponge with a flannel cloth dipped in alcohol. To remove mildew, apply vaseline with a flannel cloth. To remove ink from leather, touch the spot with water to see if the ink runs. If it does, it is probably nigro- sine or eosin or some other coal-tar ink. In that case apply a paste of baking soda in water; keep it mois- tened till the ink is absorbed. If it does not run, apply oxalic acid mois- tened with water. When the ink is absorbed, rinse with aqua ammonia and water to neutralize the acid. BOOTS AND SHOES Care of Boots and Shoes. — The great enemy of leather, especially patent leather, is heat. Extreme heat tends to rob the leather of its vital- ity and causes it to break and crack. Damp shoes should never be placed near a stove to dry, since if heated enough to give off the characteristic odor of leather they may be singed and ruined. Rubber overshoes also tend to destroy the strength of leather by retaining the animal heat. Hence they should not' be worn more than is necessary. To Dry Shoes. — Place damp shoes on their sides in a warm room, in a draught of dry air if possible, but not near a fire. Or heat bran or sand and with this fill two old stockings, tying the tops tightly. Put the shoes on these as on shoe trees. Or stuff the wet shoes full of dry crumpled newspaper. To Restore Softness to leather. — Rub boots or shoes, that have become hard from being wet, with neat's-foot oil or castor oil as warm as the hands will bear. Apply with a sponge and rub it in with the fingers. To Preserve Boots and Shoes. — Pour a little boiled linseed oil in a tin pan or plate, and let the shoes stand in this until the soles are sat- urated. This oil dries rapidly and THE FAMILY WORKROOM 419 renders the soles tough and hard. But do not apply linseed oil to the upper leathers. Use neat's-foot oil or castor oil for this purpose, to render them soft and pliable. Apply to the seams a good waterproof varnish by means of a feather or pencil brush. Keep the upper leathers clean and oil oc- casionally before polishing. Go over the bottom and edges of the soles occasionally with one or two coats of hard white copal or other varnish. Boots and shoes treated in this way will last much longer than usual and be practically impervious to moisture. To Clean Boots and Shoes. — Pro- vide three good brushes, one hard to brush off the mud, another soft to apply blacking, and a tliird of medi- um hardness for polishing. If cov- ered with mud, wash off the dirt with a damp sponge, dry, and rub with neat's-foot oil before polishing. Do not scrape off the mud with a knife. Use a stiff brush rather than a knife to clean mud from the seams. Once a week rub leather shoes at night with milk. Polish next morning as usual. Milk freshens the leather. To clean upper leathers, mix 1 ounce of oxalic acid with 1 ounce of white vitriol, and dilute with IJ pints of water. Wash the leather, apply this mixture with a sponge, and rinse with a sponge wet in a little clear water containing a teaspoonful of ammonia to neutralize the acid. Or wash with clear water. When nearly dry, rub with kerosene or a mixture of equal parts of kerosene and glycerin. Care of Boots and Shoes. — Have two or more pairs, and wear them al- ternately to let the leather dry and rest. When not in use, keep them on wooden shoe trees. Or make homemade shoe trees by filling a pair of thick socks or stock- ings that fit the feet with fine, clean sawdust or bran, and tie the tops tightly. These shoe trees will absorb the perspiration and keep the shoes in perfect shape. The socks can be emptied, washed, and refilled when necessary. These shoe trees can be easily made and are a great aid in preserving shoes. On taking the shoes off, stretch out the wrinkles and bend the soles straight. Keep buttons sewed on and set back as far as is comfort- able for the foot. If the heels be- come worn, have them straightened at once. Shoe Cleaner. — A large, coarse scrubbing brush hanging near the kitchen door is a good and cheap shoe cleaner in muddy weather, es- pecially when children are running in and out. Or nail or screw a coarse-fibered scrubbing brush, bristle side up, to the edge of the doorstep. Tight Shoes. — If the soles of shoes are of the right size, but the uppers do not quite fit the foot, put on the shoes and sponge the uppers with hot water, letting the shoes dry on the feet. Or lay a folded cloth wet in hot water over the spot that pinches. Re- peat several times if necessary. Or press against the lining with the curve of a button hook so as to stretch the leather outward. Work thus over a circular spot outwardly from the point that seems to be tight- est. This is often done by salesmen in large shoe stores. Or, to ease a swollen joint, have a shoe repairer cut a slit in the leather an inch or two long close to and parallel with the sole on the inside of the shoe where the swollen joint comes. Stretch the shoe, and over the opening between the leather and the sole fit in a patch of soft leather to match the material of the shoe. Stitch the patch to the sole, but paste its upper edge over the upper leather of the shoe to avoid a ridge of stitches. Such a patch properly cemented is hardly discernible. To draw on tight shoes, if a shoe horn is not convenient, use two or three thicknesses of newspaper or the inside of a towel. Warm a tight shoe slightly before trying it on. To Stop Creaking in Boots and Shoes. — The creaking or squeaking of boots and shoes is caused by the 420 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES rubbing against each other, whUe walking, of the two or more pieces of leather that make the sole. This is prevented in the finer grades of shoes by careful adjustment of the pieces, smoothing their surfaces, and the use of lubricants, prepared chalk, and the like. If shoes squeak, saturate the soles with linseed oil, sweet oil, or melted lard. Let the shoes stand in one of these lubricants over night. Or drive a few small pegs across the middle of the sole. Or, if necessary, have a shoemaker take off the soles, and dust some powdered soapstone or French chalk between them. Shoe Strings. — Poimd the tin flats on the ends of new shoe strings be- fore using them. They will not pull off so readily. If they come off, wax the end of the lace, and with a nee- dleful of weU-waxed thread begin an inch back from the end, take a back stitch, wind the thread around the lace twice, and stitch through the lace to the end and back. Beeswax stiffens the end, and the stitches keep the winding thread from unwinding. Wax the laces, especially for chil- dren, to prevent them from con- stantly getting untied. Or wet the finger and place it on the knot part of the tie just before drawing it up tight. Or tie a bow like an ordinary bow- knot, but whip one loop in under- neath the bow and the first knot. Pull it tightly together. When a shoe string breaks and a new one is not available, sew the ends together instead of tying them in a knot. For Nails in Shoes. — Cut an insole of thin pasteboard, as the side of a cracker box. The nails will not hurt the feet, and the pasteboard lasts a long time. To Keep on Pumps. — Fasten a small piece of elastic two inches long across the heel inside. Attach the ends only. When the pump is drawn on, the elastic stretches tight over the ball of the heel and prevents its slip- ping off. Fasten other pieces of elas- tic on either side of the instep so as to be stretched when the pump is on. This prevents its gaping at the sides. Or sew a piece of chamois to the lining inside the heel. To Mend House Shoes. — When the soles of house shoes and slippers be- gin to wear, cut a piece of kid from the top of an old shoe and glue it over the worn sole. Go over the bot- tom and edges with hard white copal or other varnish applied warm. Care of Kid Boots. — Kid tends to harden and crack. Hence it should be kept clean and rubbed once a week with castor oil. Of, to soften kid, melt equal quan- tities of tallow and oUve oil. First wash the kid with warm water, dry, and apply the mixture with a flannel cloth. To restore the color to black kid, mix ink with the white of an egg and apply with a soft sponge. White Kid. — Dip a clean white flannel cloth in a little ammonia and rub lightly over a cake of white soap. Rub the soiled spots gently, changing the cloth as soon as it be- came soiled. Or wet a clean white flannel cloth in benzine. Rub lightly, taking care not to rub the dirt in. Hang in the open air to dry. Re- member benzine is inflammable. To Clean White Canvas Shoes. — Place them on boot trees, or stuff the shoes full of newspapers rubbed between the hands until they are quite soft. Next scrub the shoes with good hard white soap and a little warm water. Then mix pipe clay with water to a stiff paste, ap- ply with a clean white flannel clotii, and let dry. When dry, rub slightly with clean white flannel. To Polish Tan Shoes. — Wash the shoes clean with a sponge and warm water. Wipe with a dry cloth and let dry. Then rub freely with the inside of a banana peel. Wipe care- fully with a soft cloth and polish ^vith cotton flannel. There is consid- erable coloring matter and tannic acid in banana peel, and this polish THE FAMILY WORKROOM 421 is fully as satisfactory as any tan dressing on the market. Orange juice is also excellent for the same purpose. Or shave a tablespoonful of white soap in a little lukewarm water; add a pinch of powdered borax and two or three drops of ammonia. Apply this with a nailbrush, scrubbing vig- orously, rinse with lukewarm water, and let dry. To darken tan shoes, apply am- monia with a clean flannel cloth. Then polish as usual. OVEBSHOES Box for Overshoes. — Take up the boards from the back doorstep, cleat and hinge them, and make a box un- derneath for the family rubbers. Or make a shoe pocket to hang on the back of the outside door. Take a piece of any old waste material the width of the door, fold it upon itself about two thirds of the width, and stitch pockets on the sewing machine of a suitable width and number for the family overshoes. Turn a head- ing at the top, through which run a curtain stick, and attach brass rings to the top to hang it up by. Line the pockets, if desired, with oilcloth to facilitate washing. Care of Overshoes. — Wash the dirt from rubber overshoes with a wet sponge. It wUl tend to rot them if left to dry on. After the newness has worn off, apply an ordinary paste polish, the same as for leather. To Dry Rubber Boots. — If rubber boots become wet on the inside, heat oats or coarse sand or newspapers crumpled until they are quite soft. FiU the boots with any of these. Repeat if necessary. To Hend Rubbers. — If shoes are allowed to run down at the heel, overshoes will quickly wear out in the heel. To prevent this, replace the heels of shoes promptly. Or glue a little crumpled paper in the heel of the overshoe. If the heel wears out when the rest of the over- shoe is good, it can be mended by a shoe repairer for about five cents a heel. Or anyone can mend it by means of rubber cement. Cut a patch from an old overshoe. Rub the patch and the shoe with sand- paper to get a clean surface. Apply rubber cement thickly to both patch and shoe and let the cement dry. Do this four or five times. Then apply a last coat and put on the patch while the cement is still tacky. Let dry under a weight. WATEBFBOOFIKG LEATHEB To Oil Boots. — Sponge with warm water, and when nearly, but not quite, dry rub with kerosene oil or neat's-foot oil or castor oil. Or dissolve 1 ounce of pure par- affin in 1 pint of the best lard oil by means of gentle heat. Apply any of these with a sponge as warm as the hands will bear, and rub in with the palm and fingers. Let dry and repeat. Use plenty of elbow grease. To Waterproof leather. — Sub- stances • recommended for water- proofing leather are various animal fats and oils, as beef and mutton tal- low, suet, neat's-foot oil, castor oil, wax, rosin, pitch, solution of India rubber, and various preparations of varnish. The animal fats and oils, and wax or parafiin, are preferable to the vegetable oils, except castor oil, rosin, or any form of varnish. A solution of India rubber is perhaps the best material to apply to the seams. Linseed and other drying oils, es- pecially boUed oils, should not be used for upper leather, as they dry rapidly and have a tendency to make the leather stiff and hard. Most forms of varnish have also the same tendency. With these thoughts in mind, selection may be made from the following recipes: Melt together with gentle heat equal parts of beeswax and mutton tal- low. Mix to a soft paste with neat's- foot oil or castor oil, and color, if de- sired, with ivory black. Apply hot. 422 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Apply a mixture of equal parts of mutton suet and beeswax without other ingredients. Or mix with gentle heat 4 ounces of beef suet, 2 ounces of beeswax, 1 ounce of rosin, 2 ounces of neat's- foot oil, and 1 ounce of lampblack, and apply hot. Or mix with gentle heat raw lin- seed oil, 8 ounces; suet, 4 ounces; wax, 3 ounces; rosin, J ounce; tur- pentine, 2J ounces, and apply hot. Or mix f pound of boiled linseed oil, 1 ounce of rosin, 3 ounces of wax, and 4 ounces of dryer (litharge, red lead, or sugar of lead), and boil un- til the mixture becomes stringy. Thin with IJ pounds of oil of tur- pentine. Apply one or more coats with a brush while warm. Or melt 1 pound of tallow and J pound of rosin, and apply hot with a brush all the leather will absorb. To polish, dissolve 1 ounce of wax In spirits of turpentine and add 1 ounce of lampblack. Apply this after the tallow and rosin mixture has thor- oughly dried, thus producing a wax polish on the surface, but remember that this process tends to shrink the leather. Or mix 2 ounces of mutton suet, 6 ounces of beeswax, 3 ounces of soft soap, 2i ounces of lampblack, and J ounce of powdered indigo. Dissolve with gentle heat, stir well, and add J pint of oil of turpentine. Melt together with gentle heat 4 ounces of raw linseed oil, S ounces of boiled linseed oil, 4 ounces of suet, and 4 ounces of beeswax. Apply hot. Or melt together with gentle heat 8 ounces of boiled linseed oil, 2 ounces of beeswax, 2 ounces of tur- pentine, and i ounce of Burgundy pitch. Apply hot, while the leather is warm and dry, until thoroughly saturated. Let dry before wearing. Or melt together with gentle heat castor oil, S ounces; Burgundy pitch, 2 drams. When cold, add J ounce of spirits of turpentine. India-rubber Mixtures. — Dissolve with gentle heat in J pint of neat's- foot oil as much India rubber from an old pair of rubber overshoes or rubber boots as the oil will contain. Tear out the cloth lining, cut the rubber up in shreds with a pair of shears, cover with the oil, and let stand two or three days on the stove until melted. It must not boil or burn. When melted, add 12 ounces of mutton tallow, 4 ounces of bees- wax, and color with lampblack or ivory black if desired. Apply this mixture when warm to warm leather previously washed clean and nearly dry. Apply with a sponge and rub in with the hands until fully satu- rated. This composition thoroughly waterproofs leather boots and shoes. Or melt together 4 ounces of neat's-foot oil, 4 ounces of beeswax, and 2 ounces of India rubber until thoroughly blended. Apply hot with a brush to warna, clean leather. Or dissolve in J pint of camphene as much India rubber as possible. Pour off the clear liquor, and to this add Currier's oil, i pint; tallow, 3 pounds; lampblack, 1 ounce. Mix with gentle heat. Shellac Varnish. — Put in a glass bottle or fruit jar 4 ounces of gum shellac. Cover with alcohol and let stand until dissolved. Add 1 ounce of gum camphor and i ounce of lampblack. Shake, and mix thorough- ly until dissolved. Thin, if necessary, with alcohol, and apply with a brush. This covers the leather with a water- proof coating having a high polish, but is hard, brittle, and tends to crack. Or mix 1 pint of alcohol, 3 ounces of white turpentine, 3 ounces of gum shellac, and J ounce of "Venetian tur- pentine in a glass fruit jar, and let stand in a warm place until dis- solved. Add i ounce of sweet oil and i ounce of lampblack. This is a flexible varnish which will not check or crack. Or mix 2 quarts of alcohol, J ounce of sulphuric acid, and 13 ounces of gum shellac. Let stand until dissolved and add 2 ounces of ivory black. Mix and let stand 34 THE FAMILY WORKROOM 423 hours. Pour oflf the top and apply with a brush. French Varnish. — Dissolve in 2i pints of white wine or best vinegar 3 ounces of loaf sugar and 4 ounces of powdered gum Senegal. Strain through cheese cloth and put over a slow fire, but do not let it come to a boil. Add 1 oimce of powdered galls, 3 ounces of green copperas, and 4 pint of alcohol. Stir for 6 minutes. Remove from the fire, and when nearly cool strain through cheese cloth and bottle. Apply with a brush. Or melt with gentle heat in a double boiler J pint of alcohol, 1 ounce of gum benzoin, and i ounce of gum sandarac or gum anime. Strain, and add J gill of poppy oil. Or dissolve in 8 ounces of turpen- tine 3 ounces of copal varnish and J ounce of India rubber. Dissolve separately J ounce of beeswax in 8 ounces of boiled linseed oil. Mix and add 14 ounces of litharge. Bring to a boil and bottle for use. BLACEIKG LEATHEB Blacking for leather. — ^The pig- ments chiefly used in making shoe and harness blackings are lampblack and ivory black. Logwood is some- times used in liquid blackings, and indigo and Prussian blue are some- times added in small quantities. Lampblack is finely powdered car- bon, resulting from the imperfect combustion of gases from substances containing carbon, as gas tar, wood tar, petroleum, and soft resinous woods. These substances are burned in a fireplace having a long flue, con- necting with a series of chambers in which lampblack is deposited accord- ing to its fineness. The last ohamber receives on a cloth screen the finest black of all. Hence lampblack varies in quality according to its degree of fineness. Crude lampblack contains some oily, tarry, and resinous mat- ters which prevents its mixing freely with water. Hence, in preparing blacking for leather, it is customary to add a small amount of oil of vitriol or other acid, which chars and destroys these foreign substances, leaving the lampblack nearly pure carbon. Ivory Black, bone black, or animal charcoal is produced by burning bones in close vessels. Various gases are driven off, leaving about one half the weight of the original bones in solid form. This is crushed and sifted, producing bone black, which varies in quality according to the de- gree of fineness. Animal charcoal is a very power- ful absorbent of gases and of various substances from solutions. Under the name "ivory black" it is much used as a pigment in the preparation of shoe and harness blackings on ac- count of its property of absorbing other substances, and thus producing a smooth and uniform mixture. It is somewhat more expensive than lamp- black, to which it is usually pre- ferred. Paste Blacking consists of a mix- ture of these pigments with molasses or sugar and various animal oils and fats qr vegetable oils, more or less diluted with water, spirits, or vine- gar, and with the addition of sul- phuric acid or hydrochloric acid, or a mixture of these. The ordinary liq- uid blackings known as French pol- ishes consist of the same pigments, with the addition of small quantities of gums or gelatin diluted with wa- ter, spirits, vinegar, or turpentine. Another class of liquid blackings, however, is formed of logwood, with the addition of small quantities of indigo or Prussian blue. Paste Blacking:. — Mix with gentle heat I pound of ivory black, 8 ounces of molasses, and 3 ounces of sweet oil. Dissolve separately 2 ounces of hydrochloric acid in 4 ounces of wa- ter, and 4 ounces of sulphuric acid in 8 ounces of water. Mix the solutions, and add the mixture in a thin stream to the other ingredients, stirring vig- orously. This is the ordinary Ger- man paste blacking of commerce. Mix 4 ounces of ivory black with 424 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES 1 tablespoonful of alcohol. Stir in 1 fluid ounce of sweet oil and J pint of molasses. Add 1 ounce of hydro- chloric acid and 1 ounce of sulphuric acid. Or, to make large quantities for sale, mix SO pounds of ivory black, 13 pounds of molasses, and 1 gallon of rape oil. Dilute lOJ pounds of oil of vitriol veith 1 gallon of water, add this solution to the other sub- stances in a thin stream, mixing thor- oughly with a wooden shovel, and when stirred cover tightly, and let stand Si hours. Or mix 4 ounces of ivory black, 3 ounces of brown sugar, 1 tablespoon- ful of sweet oU, and 1 pint of beer. Or mix 3 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of molasses, 1 ounce of sul- phuric acid, 1 ounce of gimi arable dissolved in water, 1 tablespoonful of sweet oU, and J pint of vinegar. Or mix 2 ounces of sulphuric acid with 4 ounces of tannin oil. Let stand 48 hours. Add S ounces of molasses and 1 pound of ivory black. This is a. celebrated commercial ar- ticle. Or mix 8 ounces of ivory black and 8 oimces of molasses. Add i ounce of powdered alum, 1 dram of turpentine, 1 ounce of sulphuric acid, and 2 ounces of raw linseed oil. Liquid Blacking. — Mix 4 ounces of ivory black with 1 tablespoonful of Eilcohol. Add 1 fluid ounce of sweet oil and J pint of molasses; mix, and add 1 ounce of hydrochloric acid and 1 ounce of sulphuric acid. Stir in 3 pints of vinegar. Or mix 3 ounces of ivory black, 1 quart of molasses, and 1 pint of sweet oil. Add 12 ounces of sulphuric acid. Stir in 8 ounces of coarse brown sugar. Thin with stale beer. Or 4 ounces of molasses, J ounce of lampblack, 1 teaspoonful of yeast, and 1 teaspoonful of oil of turpen- tine. Apply with a sponge. Or 1 pound of ivory black, 4 ounces of brown sugar, and the whites of 6 eggs. Mix, dilute with beer, and simmer with gentle heat, \)Xit without boiling, for 10 minutes. Dissolve in 2 quarts of water 1 ounce of best logwood extract. Bring the solution with gentle heat nearly to the boiling point, but do not boil. Add 1 dram of bichloride of potash and 1 dram of yellow prussiate of potash. Stir until the mixture turns to a deep blue. Stir in IJ ounces of powdered borax until dissolved. Add 1 ounce of aqua ammonia and 8 ounces of shellac, and stir until all are dissolved. Bottle for use. Or mix 1 pint of best vinegar with J pint of soft water. Add 2 ounces of pulverized blue, 4 ounces of log- wood chips, 2 ounces of powdered in- digo, 2 ounces of castUe-soap jelly, and J ounce of isinglass. Boil 15 minutes and strain through cheese cloth. Cork tightly. Or mix equal quantities of glycerin and black ink. Apply with a brush or swab. Or dissolve 4 ounces of shellac in 3 pints of alcohol. Add 1 ounce of gum camphor, and when dissolved stir in 1 ounce of lampblack. Apply with a brush. Care of Patent leather. — Clean patent-leather shoes with a sponge and warm water. Warm the leather with genUe heat, but take care not to get it too hot, and apply sweet oil or olive oil with or without an equal quantity of turpentine. Apply the oil with a sponge or cloth, and rub with the palm of the hands while the leather is warm. Apply ordinary blacking to the edges of the sole, or liquid varnish blacking with a sponge or brush, but do not apply paste or liquid blackings to patent leather. Or mix in 1 quart of water 4 ounces of molasses, J oimce of lamp- black, J ounce of sweet oil, i ounce of gum arable, and J ounce of isinglass. Stir together with gentle heat. Cool and add 1 oimce of al- cohol and, if convenient, the gall of an ox. Or, to replace the enamel when it becomes cracked or chipped, mix 2 oimces of Prussian blue, 1 ounce of ivory black, and 1 quart of linseed oil. Melt with gentle heat, grinding THE FAMILY WORKROOM 426 the pigments carefully in the oil. Apply two coats with a brush. Then add to the mixture 2 ounces of amber or copal varnish, and apply this as a last resort. When dry polish with a moist cloth dipped in powdered pumice. To Clean Harness. — Never apply oil or blacking to leather which is dry or dirty. First wash the leather free from dirt or grease with soap and water. Then apply the oil, and finally blacken and polish. Prepare a tub full of soapsuds, hot but not boiling; take the harness to pieces, put these in the hot suds, and let them soak over night. Then remove the pieces, scrape them clean with a stiff brush, and rub dry with a coarse cloth. Apply with a brush a black dye made by dissolving with gentle heat 1 ounce of extract of logwood and 12 grains of bichromate of potash in 3 quarts of water. Bottle and cork for use. Let the harness stand under shade in a draught for three or four hours, and apply warm neat's-foot oil with a brush. Follow with a second coat of one third castor oil and two thirds neat's-foot oU mixed, and wipe dry with a woolen cloth. Or mix neat's-foot oil with a small quantity of ivory black, but do not use lampblack, as it will rub oflf. A second oiling should usually be given. Treating a harness in this way three or four times a year will more than double its wear. Or add to each quart of neat's-foot oil 1 ounce of beeswax. Simmer with gentle heat untU dissolved, and add J pound of oil of tar. Stir un- til dissolved, and apply to clean, warm, slightly moist leather surfaces. To make this waterproof, add 1 dram of India rubber dissolved in 1 ounce of naphtha; or mix with gentle heat 3 ounces of beeswax and 1 pint of neat's-foot oil. Dissolve 1 ounce of gum arable in 1 gill of hot water. Shave fine 1 pound of castile soap, and dissolve in 1 gill of hot water. Mix all together and simmer with gentle heat to the right consistency. Apply to clean, warm, and slightly moist leather. Or dissolve with gentle heat 3 ounces of white wax and 3 ounces of turpentine. Stir in 1 ounce of ivory black and 1 dram of indigo. Apply while warm a very thin coat with a brush, and polish with a, soft brush or cloth. Apply to harness which has previously been washed and oiled. Or dissolve with gentle heat in a double boiler IJ pounds of stearin in 2i pounds of turpentine. Stir con- stantly while heating. When dis- solved, stir in 1 ounce of ivory black; remove from the fire, and stir con- stantly until cold, otherwise it wUl crystallize and the ingredients will separate. Apply warm with a cloth a very thin coat and partially dry. Polish with silk or chamois. This gives a very high gloss and does not injure the leather. Or cut fresh lard with kerosene oU, and add ivory black to color. Apply warm with a brush. This is cheap, handy, and generally useful. Or melt 2 ounces of black rosin, and add 3 ounces of beeswax. Re- move from the fire, and add J ounce of ivory black and J dram of Prus- sian blue. Rub up smoothly to- gether and thin to soft paste with turpentine. Apply with a cloth and polish with a brush. Or melt 3 ounces of mutton suet and .6 ounces of beeswax. Add 6 ounces of brown sugar, 3 ounces of castile-soap jelly, and 1 ounce of in- digo. Melt with gentle heat, mix, and stir in 1 gill of turpentine. Apply with a sponge or cloth and polish with a brush. Black Varnish Jet or Polish for leather. — Dissolve with gentle heat 3 sticks of any color of sealing wax desired in 1 pint of 95 per cent alco- hol, and apply warm with a sponge or brush. For carriage bodies, dash- boards, and the like, apply first, to save extra coats, a dye of copperas water or logwood, and afterwards lay on the varnish. Or to 1 gallon of alcohol add 1 426 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ounce of sulphuric acid. Stir in I4 pounds of gum shellac. Let stand 2 or 3 days or until dissolved, and add i ounces of ivory black. Let stand 34 hours and pour off the thin liquid from the top. This recipe is waterproof and is a suitable polish for all leather. It is a commercial article which sells on the market at about 25 cents an ounce. Black Balls for Leather. — Melt to- gether 2 ounces of lard, 8 ounces of neat's-foot oil, 2 ounces of wax, and 8 ounces of brown sugar in 8 ounces of water. Bring the whole to a boil, and stir in 10 ounces of ivory black. Remove from the fire and stir con- stantly until it cools, then roll into balls two inches in diameter. Or melt 4 ounces of tallow and 2 pounds of beeswax, and add 4 ounces of lampblack mixed with 4 ounces of gum arable. Stir together and roll into balls. Melt together beeswax, 8 ounces; ivory black, 2 ounces; turpentine, 1 ounce; Prussian blue ground in oil, 1 ounce, and copal varnish, i ounce. Make into balls. ■WHITING INK Ink. — Inks are of several classes, as writing inks, marking or indelible inks, and printing inks. Writing inks may be black or colored. Black writ- ing inks are chiefly nutgall iron inks, made from a solution of Aleppo nut- galls with copperas; chrome logwood inks, made by the addition of 1 part of potassium chromate to 1,000 parts of saturated solution of logwood; aniline inks, made of coal-tar products, as nigrosine, eosin, etc., and carbon inks, made of a resinous alkaline solution mixed with lampblack. Marking inks are chiefly lampblack, or nitrate of silver. Colored inks are now made chiefly of aniline coal-tar products. It is important to understand the na- ture of these different materials in order to choose the various kinds of ink required; to make them properly, if desirable, either for home use or for sale; to keep them properly, and to erase them when they produce any accidental stains. These points are the more important for the reason that since the use of coal-tar colors or aniline dyes, especially nigrosine, dating from about 1867, old-fashioned recipes for taking out ink stains have become untrustworthy. Unfortunate- ly, a great many of these recipes taken from old books are still being published. Hence care must be taken not to be misled by instruc- tions which were correct when they were first given, but can no longer be relied on. To Make Black Ink. — Formerly black ink was usually made by ex- posing to the air a solution of green vitriol in an infusion of gallnuts in water containing dissolved gum, sug- ar, or mucUage. The result was a fine precipitate of tannate of iron held in suspension by the gum. Writ- ing done with these inks was of a pale- brown color, which, however, turned black on the paper. They are still in use, and recipes for making them will be given; but they are open to the objections that tiiey corrode steel pens, tend to settle on standing, and the writing fades to a yellow or brown tint with age. Many old letters dat- ing from war times are in existence the writing of which is almost faded from the paper. Modern inks of this sort are im- proved by the addition of a little free sulphuric acid, which prevents the tannate of iron from forming a precipitate or powder. Hence they are true solutions. The addition of a little indigo, carmine, or aniline blue is also an improvement. This is one of the reasons why modern inks can- not be removed by old-fashioned rec- ipes, the acids which take out the stain of tannate of iron having no ef- fect on the modern coal-tar colors. Inks of this class are made com- mercially from Aleppo nutgalls and copperas, or from green vitriol. The nutgalls contain 60 to 70 per cent tannic acid and 3 to S per cent gallic acid. The galls are crushed, steeped in hot, not boiling, water, and strained. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 427 The infusion is mixed with a solution of copperas containing free sulphuric acid. Indigo and aniline blues are added, and also a solution of gum arable, the last ingredient enabling the writer to make light strokes with the pen and to prevent the ink from spreading too quickly. An antiseptic, usually carbolic or salicylic acid, is added to prevent mold. Some experiments will be required to make a good ink of this class, as the amount of tannin contained in nutgalls varies, and the amount ex- tracted by inexperienced persons va- ries still more. Recipes will be given for the use of nutgalls, but for home- made inks it will be found more con- venient, when possible, to buy tannic and gallic acids ready made than to extract them from nutgalls. We rec- ommend for a good homemade ink the following: Five ounces of tannin, 4 ounces of copperas, J ounce of indigo, carmine, or aniline blue, and 10 drops of sul- phuric acid. Or 5 ounces of gallic acid, 7J oimces of copperas, J ounce of indigo, car- mine, or aniline blue, and 13 drops of sulphuric acid. The latter formula gives a finer quality of ink than the former, but it does not turn black so quickly. Hence a still better formula is a mixture of the two. Or S ounces of tannin, 5 ounces of gallic acid, llj ounces of copperas, 1 ounce of indigo, carmine, or aniline blue, and 20 drops of sulphuric acid; or, for smaller quantities, the same proportions by weight. This mixture will be found an excellent ink for schools, ofSces, and domestic pur- poses. The following recipes will suggest interesting experiments in ink mak- ing; pulverized Aleppo galls, 3 pounds; gum arable, 1 pound. Put these in an earthen jar and add 1 gallon of boiling water. Let stand in a warm place for 3 weeks, stir- ring frequently. Add 1 pound of green copperas dissolved in 14 pints of water. Mix and let stand 2 or 3 weeks, stirring daily. The addition of i ounces of aniline blue and 3 ounces of sulphuric acid will improve this mixture. Or mix 2 ounces of crushed gall- nuts, 1 ounce of gum arable, and 1 ounce of copperas with 16 ounces of soft water. Add 5 grains of corro- sive sublimate to prevent mold. Let stand for 2 weeks, shaking frequently, before using. A solution of logwood is often add- ed to the nutgall inks to give a strong- er black. Cover | poimd of Aleppo bruised galls with 1 gallon of soft water; let stand 3 weeks, stirring daily. Add 4 ounces of green cop- peras dissolved in 1 pint of water, 4 ounces of logwood chips, 6 ounces of gum arable, and 2 ounces of alcohol. Stir, and let stand a week or 10 days before using. Mix 4 ounces of bruised Aleppo galls, 2 ounces of thin logwood chips, and 3 quarts of soft water; boil down to 3 pints. Add 2 ounces of green copperas, IJ ounces of powdered gum arable, J ounce of blue vitriol, and J ounce of brown sugar. Stir until dissolved, let stand 24 hours, strain, and bottle for use. Or mix 1 ounce of powdered cop- peras, 1 ounce of fine logwood chips, 3 ounces of crushed Aleppo galls, 1 ounce of gum arable, and fij pomids of white wine or best vinegar. Or boU 4 ounces of logwood chips in 6 quarts of water down to 3 quarts. Strain, and add 2 quarts of cold water. Add to this solution 1 pound of bruised Aleppo galls, 4 ounces of sulphate of iron, and J ounce of ace- tate of copper. Rub to a smooth paste with a little of the logwood liquor. Add also 3 ounces of coarse sugar and 6 ounces of gum arable. Chrome logwood Inks. — ^These inks are prepared by the addition of 1 part of potassium chromate to 1,000 parts of saturated solution of log- wood. Or boil the solution of log- wood with chloride or acetate of chromium. Inks of this class have no sediment, do not corrode steel pens, and do not turn moldy. Writing done with them may be soaked in 428 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES water without the ink running or washing oflF. They also have the ad- vantage over iron-gall inks that they will not fade. To make chrome logwood ink on a large scale, boil 22 pounds of logwood in 38 gallons of water down to 14 gallons; when cold, to 1,000 parts of this infusion add gradually 1 part of yellow chromate of potash, stirring constantly. Or, for a small quantity, boU IJ oimces of thin logwood chips in 3 pints of water down to 1 pint, and when cold add 17 grains of yellow chromate of potash, stirring thor- oughly. Do not add gum or acid. To prevent mold, add a few drops of bi- chloride of mercury. Copying Inks. — Copying inks are of the same composition as ordinary writing inks, but thicker. Gum, sugar, and other sticky ingredients are used in copying inks to keep them from soaking into the paper before it is brought in contact with the moist tissue paper of the copying press. The largest number of copies from one writing is obtained by means of a strong decoction of logwood extract with alum or chloride of aluminum, and by the use of sheets of tissue copying paper previously soaked in chromate of potash. A small amount of the logwood solution unites with the chromate salt in the tissue paper to form a black compound. Or put 1 pound of powdered Alep- po galls in an earthen jar and cover with 3 gallons of rain water. Let stand 10 days. Add 4 ounces of clean copperas, 4 ounces of brown sugar, and 4 ounces of gum arable dissolved with gentle heat in a little water. Put the whole in an iron ket- tle and boil down to 1 gallon. Or put 2 ounces of logwood ex- tract, 4 ounces of sal soda, and 18 ounces of soft water in an earthen vessel, and set it in the oven until the solution becomes a deep red and the ingredients are all dissolved. Remove from the oven, and stir in 2 ounces of glycerin, 30 grains of yellow chromate of potash dissolved in a lit- tle water, and J ounce of gum arable dissolved in water. Strain through cheese cloth and boil down to one half with gentle heat. Or add 1 teaspoonful of brown sugar to 1 pint of ordinary writing ink. To take a single copy from any of the above without a copying press, first let the ink dry, then moisten a sheet of tissue paper or unsized writ- ing paper with water, but do not have it too wet. Lay it over the writing, and go over it with a warm flatiron, IIABEING INKS Harking Inks. — On account of the resistance it offers to acids and other chemicals, carbon, in the form of lampblack, is often used as the basis of marking inks. But carbon cannot be dissolved. Hence it must be held in suspension in some gummy or res- inous liquid, and is not suitable for use with ordinary steel pens. Carbon marking inks are usually applied by means of a brush or a marking pen having a special point for this pur- pose. To make a carbon marking ink, boil 2 ounces of shellac and 2 ounces of baking soda in 1 quart of soft water until the shellac is dissolved. Stir in fine lampblack to the proper consistency, and thin with water as desired. Or dissolve 1 ounce of borax and 2 ounces of shellac in 1 quart of water with gentle heat. Add 1 ounce of mucilage, and stir in equal quantities of indigo and lampblack to the right color and consistency. Or dissolve with gentle heat 25 grains of powdered copal in 31 ovmces of oU of lavender. Add 2J grains of lampblack and i grain of indigo. Used for marking glass bottles and other vessels containing chemical sub- stances of a corrosive nature. India Ink. — India or China ink is finely divided carbon mixed with a solution of gum arable or glue, dried in wooden molds, and coated with animal wax. It is applied with a wet brush or by diluting a small quantity in water. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 429 To test India ink, draw a number of lines of different thicknesses on a piece of drawing paper. When bone dry, apply water with a sponge. If the ink runs, it is of poor quality. To make a substitute for India ink, boil an old kid glove in water until it forms a thick size, which when cool is of a jellylike consistency. Hold a cold plate in the flame, of a candle, and while it is still warm mix the lampblack which adheres to the plate with the size thus obtained. This mix- ture has all the qualities of a iirst- class India ink. This is a good dye with which to renovate black gloves that have become defaced. Indelible Ink. — The old-fashioned nitrate-of-silver ink is stiU commonly used for marking linen and for simi- lar purposes. To make an indelible ink, dissolve 1 ounce of nitrate of sil- ver in 3J ounces of liquid ammonia. Dissolve separately with gentle heat IJ ounces of gum arabic and IJ ounces of carbonate of soda crystals. Mix the two solutions and let stand in a warm place. Add a few drops of solution of magenta. Or dissolve 1 ounce of nitrate of silver in 4 ounces of distilled water. Add strong liquid ammonia to dis- solve the resulting sediment. Stir in i ounce of gum arabic and J ounce of sap green or powdered indigo. The most convenient way to apply indelible inks to linen is to have a brass stencil cut with the family name or monogram. Lay this over the linen and with a soft brush apply the ink through the cut-out spaces. A little practice on a piece of old linen will enable anyone to do this work quickly and well. The above inks are ready to be applied., Or another way of using marking inks is to first dip the linen in a solu- tion called the mordant, and after- wards apply the ink, which then forms a chemical compound with the fibers of the fabric. To do this, first mois- ten the linen with a mordant com- posed of 2 ounces of baking soda and 1 ounce of gum arabic dissolved with gentle heat in 8 ounces of water. Dry with a warm flatiron, and apply an ink composed of 1 ounce of nitrate of silver, 14 ounces of distilled water, and 1 ounce of sap green. This must be applied with a quill pen, a gold pen, or a brush, as a steel pen will de- compose the ink. Black Stencil Ink. — Rub to a smooth paste 4 ounces of lampblack and 8 ounces of Prussian blue with a little glycerin. Add 6 ounces of gum arabic dissolved with gentle heat in a small amount of water, and thin with glycerin to the right consistency. Or dissolve 1 ounce of aniline blue in 1 pint of water, and apply with a sponge. Or dissolve 1 ounce of asphaltum in 4 ounces of turpentine, stir in lampblack to color, and thin with turpentine as required. COLOBED INKS Colored Writing Inks. — Inks may be made of almost any color by the use of suitable dyestuffs. The vari- ety and beauty of colored inks have been greatly increased by the discov- ery of the coal-tar products, known as aniline dyes. These are now in common use under various trade names. Red Ink. — Red ink may be made out of cochineal or Brazil wood, or the coal-tar colors known as puchsin, magenta, or eosin. These are readily soluble in water, but should have a few drops of corrosive sublimate or other antiseptic added to prevent mold. Eosin inks copy freely, but fade if exposed to sunlight. To make red ink, bring 1 gallon of the best vinegar to a. boil with gentle heat, add 1 pound of Brazil wood, and simmer for half an hour. Stir in I pound of powdered alum and strain through cheese cloth. Add J gill of fresh gall to each quart of the ink. Cork tightly in glass bottles. Or boil for 1 hour 4 ounces of ground Brazil wood in 1 pint of di- luted acetic acid (1 part pure acid to 10 parts water). Add J ounce of alum, strain, and add 1 ounce of 430 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVEIIIES gum arable dissolved in a little hot water. Use copper or enamel ware for the above. Or dissolve 10 grains of the best carmine lake in the least possible quantity of ammonia. Let stand 24 hours and dilute with 2i fluid ounces of distilled water. Or boil 3 ounces of powdered cochineal and 2 ounces of cream of tartar with 8 ounces of water imtil dissolved. Strain, and add 1 ounce or a little more of carbonate of potas- sium. Stir in 1 ounce of alum and 1 ounce of gum arable dissolved in a little boiling water. Additional car- bonate of potassium will darken the color of the ink. Blue Ink. — Take 3 ounces of Prus- sian blue crystals and cover with hy- drochloric acid. Stir or shake the mixture thoroughly, pour off the acid through a suitable strainer, and pour on water to rinse the blue completely free of the acid. Dry the crystals, mix with an equal quantity of oxalic acid in iine powder, and thin with dis- tilled water to the color desired. Or dissolve indigo carmine in water. Or mix 2 ounces of ferrocyanide of iron and 2 ounces of strong hydro- chloric acid. Dissolve and dilute with soft water. Or mix 1 ounce of powdered Prus- sian blue with IJ fluid ounces of muriatic acid. Dilute with water. Violet Ink. — Dissolve with gentle heat 1 ounce of methyl-violet aniline in 1 gill of alcohol. Stir until thor- oughly dissolved. Then add 1 gallon of boiling water. This is a vivid, beautiful violet, which flows smoothly and dries quickly, but will fade if ex- posed to sunlight. It is the common violet ink of commerce. Green Ink. — Dissolve 1 ounce of iodine-green aniline in 1 gill of hot alcohol, and dilute with 2 quarts of soft water. This is a vivid and beau- tiful color which will yield several copies, and is very little faded by sun- light. Or dissolve 2 ounces of verdigris and 1 ounce of cream of tartar in 8 ounces of soft water, and boll imtil the right shade is reached. Or mix 1 ounce of crystallized ace- tate of copper with 1 pint of soft water. Or rub together 3J drams of solu- ble Prussian blue and 3 drams of gamboge with 2 ounces of mucilage, and dilute with J pint of soft water. Yellow Ink. — Dissolve yellow or orange aniline colors in boiling water. Or boil 1 pound of French berries with 2 ounces of alum in 1 gallon of water imtil the color is sufficiently strong. Strain, and add 4 ounces of gum arable. Show-card Inks. — Any of the above colored inks, may be used for show cards if desired, or dissolve IJ ounces of gum arabic in 8 ounces of water, and while hot strain through cheese cloth. Mix with this ordinary paint- ers' colors, either dry or ground in oils, and apply with a brush. To make a show card permanent, brush it over with a thin glue size, lay on the ink with a brush, and finish with a hard, white varnish. To mix various colors of ink for different tints, see under " Paints and Paftiting." Gold, Silver, and Bronze Inks are prepared by grinding thin sheets of the metal on a glass plate with a lit- tle honey to reduce them to a fine powder. This powder is then laid on filter paper, washed with hot water to remove the honey, and dissolved in a solution of gum arabic for use. The writing may be done with a, nearly colorless glue size, and the fine bronze, gold, or silver powder may be dusted over it while the size is still wet. SFECIAI, INKS Sympathetic Inks. — These inks are invisible until brought out by the ef- fect of heat or some chemical. For an invisible ink, write with fresh milk, which will not show until the paper is gently heated. Or write with a solution of sugar in water. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 431 Or write with a mixture of 1 part of sulphuric acid and 30 parts of water, using a quill or gold pen. The acid will corrode an iron or steel pen. This is invisible until the paper is made warm enough to evaporate the water, when the acid will char the paper in black characters. Or write with a solution of acetate of lead, and afterwards expose the writing to the fumes of a brimstone match. Or write with a weak solution of nutgalls, and apply a solution of iron to the paper. Or write with a solution of nitrate of silver, and apply a solution of com- mon salt. These methods have often been used to conceal subjects of cor- respondence by writing letters with ordinary inks, and between the lines writing with invisible ink another mes- sage. The secret of the combination must, of course, be known to the per- son for whom the writing is intended. Xuminous Ink. — Dissolve 1 dram of phosphorus, in 1 ounce of oil of cinnamon. Cork tightly, and put the bottle . in hot water until dissolved. Letters written with this solution will be visible in the dark. Hectograph. Ink. — Mix 1 ounce of iodine-green or methyl-violet aniline colors with 1 ounce of glycerin, and dissolve the mixture in 10 ounces of distilled water. This is used in print- ing from a gelatin pad, usually called a hectograph. To make such a pad, cover 1 ounce of gelatin with cold water, and let stand over night. Put in a new tin dripping pan or other tin dish having low sides and square corners 12i ounces of gelatin, and heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Stir in the soaked gelatin and let the mix- ture stand over a slow fire until the water is all evaporated. This will produce a solid pad of clear gelatin. Cover from dust and let stand over night. To use this pad, write with the above ink, let the ink dry, and moisten the pad slightly with water by means of a brush. When the pad is nearly dry, lay the writing, face down, on the pad, rubbing it down gently with a soft cloth. Let it stand a minute or more according to the nimiber of copies required, remove the paper, and the pad is ready to print from. Use for this purpose soft unsized paper. Lay the paper on the pad, smoothing it with a cloth or roller, and remove immediately. Con- tinue to take copies until the ink is exhausted. Then wash the pad with cold water and a sponge to remove the surplus ink. When dry, it is ready to be used again as before. Kubber-stamp Ink. — Inking pads for rubber stamps may be re-inked by means of aniline dyes of suitable color mixed to the consistency of thin cream with glycerin. Metal-label Ink. — ^Dissolve 1 ounce of copper in 10 ounces of nitric acid, and thin with 10 ounces of water. Or mix 2 ounces of powdered sul- phate of copper, 1 ounce of powdered sal ammoniac, and 4 ounces of acetic acid. Stir in lampblack or other pigment of any color desired. Or dissolve equal quantities of ver- digris and sal ammoniac in water, and add lampblack or other pigment to color. Mix the ingredients in earth- enware with wooden paddles, as they will corrode metals. They are suit- able for writing on steel, tin plate, or sheet zinc. Mix 1 ounce of muriatic acid and i ounce of nitric acid. Cover the metal surface with beeswax, and when cold, write on it with any sharp-point- ed instrument that will cut through to tlA wax. Apply the mixture with a small brush or feather, and let it lie for a few minutes according to the depth of etching desired. Then rinse off the wax and acid in hot water. Either of the acids alone will cut iron or steel, but the mixture is required for gold or silver. After rinsing off the acids, apply a little sweet oil or olive oil. The smoothness of the etch- ing will depend upon the cleanness with which the wax is cut and re- moved from the metal in each let- ter. Hence a sharp-edged tool is the best. 432 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES CABE OF INK To Prevent Mold in Ink. — The ad- dition of a little alcohol or a few drops of any essential oil or a. few cloves will prevent mold. Or add a few drops of salicylic acid or corrosive sublimate or carbolic acid, but do not add metallic acids to inks containing aniline dyes. To Prevent Ink from Thickening. — As inks thicken by the evaporation of the liquids with which they are diluted, the only way to protect them is to keep them covered from the air. Hence the use of inkstands with ta- pering funnels of glass or hard rub- ber is advisable. If the ink becomes too thick to write smoothly, or if, when a bottle has been exhausted, a residue of black sediment is left, it may be diluted with clear water or a small quantity of strong black coffee strained through silk or linen. To Keep Ink from Freezing. — The addition of a small quantity of alco- hol acts as a preventive. To Restore Faded Ink. — Writing which has become partially illegible on account of age may be restored by applying carefully to the paper an in- fusion of galls, or a solution of prus- siate of potash slightly acidulated with dilute sulphuric or muriatic acid. These substances have the property of turning iron-gaU inks black. To Remove Oiliness from Ink. — If the action of the air causes ink to become oily, ropy, or stringy, add a little oxgall or vinegar. Printer's Ink is a carbon ink mixed with oils or resins. The carbon is usually lampblack or ivory black mixed with a little indigo or Prussian blue. The oU is usually boiled linseed oil or nut oil. Other ingredients are rosin, turpentine, balsam of copaiba, and yellow soap. Great care is required to produce the finest grades of ink, and printer's inks vary greatly in qual- ity and price. The methods of prep- aration are trade secrets, and printers rarely attempt to make the better grades of ink for themselves. Colored printing inks are made by using various colored pigments in place of carbon. Bronze and other metallic effects are produced by printing with a near- ly colorless glue size, and sprinkling the metallic powder on the surface while it is sticky. Printing Ink. — Grind in a paint mill or with a marble mortar and pestle 9 ounces of balsam of copaiba, 4 ounces of finest lampblack, 1 ounce of powdered indigo, and 3 ounces of hard, dry yellow soap. Heat a quan- tity of linseed oil in an iron kettle until it begins to boil. Remove from the fire and kindle the escaping vapor. Allow it to burn mitil the oil becomes stringy when lifted with a stirrer. Then add to each quart of oil 1 pound of pulverized black rosin. Dissolve with gentle heat and stir in 4J ounces of dry yellow-soap shavings to each quart. Melt these together with gen- tle heat. Measure for every pound of rosin employed 1 ounce of indigo, 1 ounce of Prussian blue, and 18 ounces of lampblack. Pour the melt- ed mixture over these pigments, mix, and grind in a paint mill. Dryers for Printer's Ink. — One ounce of beeswax, i ounce of gum arable dissolved to a thin mucilage with acetic acid, J ounce of japan, and J ounce of asphaltum varnish. Add the above to 1 pound of printer's ink. lithographic Ink. — Melt together with gentle heat 3 ounces of shellac, 4 ounces of castile soap, 2 ounces of white wax, and 2 ounces of tallow. Add 3 tablespoonfuls of gum san- darac dissolved in 3 tablespoonfuls of alcohol, and stir in ivory black or the best lampblack to color. To Remove Ink Stains. — The arti- cle to use depends entirely on the nature of the ink. For a logwood ink stain, use dilute muriatic acid, 1 part of acid to 10 parts of water. This removes the stain, first turning it red; but it converts the stain of red eosin ink to an insoluble brick-red substance, and a nigrosine ink stain to an indelible blue-black dye. For an iron-gall ink, use oxgall or THE FAMILY WORKROOM 433 mineral acids, as muriatic, sulphuric, and the like. These decompose the black tannate of iron, but have no ef- fect on the indigo and aniline blues which are added to most modern inks, especially the blue-black writing fluids. Hence the first step is to find out what the ink contains. If convenient, this may be done by putting a few drops on a piece of cloth, and testing with that; meantime taking measures to prevent the stain from spreading. First dry the sample and attack it with water. If the ink contains nigrosine, it will dissolve in water and the stain will spread. In that case use an alkali, as baking soda, cover- ing the stain thickly and moistening it with water. If the ink does not run, it is probably iron-gall or logwood ink, hence an acid may be tried, but if the acid does not succeed, try soda or other alkali. On white fabrics, the best way to remove ink stains is to cover the spot with chloride of lime and moisten with dilute muriatic acid. This sets the chlorine free to attack the stain. Ni- trate of silver stains may be removed by cyanide of potassium, but this must be used with great care, as it is very poisonous. For colored fabrics pyrophosphate of soda may be tried. Fabrics should be immediately washed with clear water after the stain has been re- moved. CASE or JEWELBY To Keep Jewelry at its best it should be properly stored when not in use and occasionally cleaned and polished, or recolored, when necessary, to restore its original luster. Most jewelry contains more or less alloy which wUl tarnish, and articles of sil- ver are especially likely to tarnish by contact with substances containing silver, or by fumes of sulphur which are often present in the atmosphere. It should be remembered that 30 per cent to 60 per cent of rubber con- sists of sulphur; hence rubber bands and articles containing rubber should never be brought in close proximity to fine silver articles. To Store Jewelry. — When not in use, jewelry may be covered with a thin film of collodion dissolved in ether or alcohol. Or laid away in boxes covered with boxwood sawdust, which may be ob- tained from any jeweler. To Clean Jewelry. — To clean arti- cles of gold or silver, use castile soap and an old soft toothbrush or jewel- er's brush, and wash carefully. Rinse in clear cold water, lay in a box of boxwood or other sawdust, and shake gently until dry. Rings containing gems should be removed when the hands are being washed, or their lus- ter will be impaired. To clean a gold or silver chain, put it in a small glass bottle with warm suds of castile soap and a little whit- ing or prepared chalk. Shake well, rinse with cold water, and dry in saw- dust. To Polish Jewelry. — To polish gold jewelry, make a paste of whiting with sal volatile, cover the article, and let dry. Then brush off vrith an old toothbrush or polish with chamois. Or put in a glass vessel 3 ounces of sulphate of iron (green vitriol), and gradually add water, stirring with a glass rod until all is dissolved. Use no more water than is necessary. Add carbonate of ammonia gradually un- til all the iron falls as a sediment. Let the mixture settle and strain off the liquor through filter paper. Dry the pulverized iron by means of blot- ting paper. Place it in an earthen- ware cup or bowl or crucible, and heat it in a dark room until it glows softly. When cool, this is the best polishing powder that can be made. Or take 3 ounces of hydrochloric acid and add iron filings, stirring with a. glass rod until the acid has dis- solved all it can. Add aqua ammonia until the iron is all precipitated from this solution. Dilute this solution with water and collect the sediment on filter paper, drying slowly in sun- shine or with very gentle heat. To 434 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES 3i ounces of this substance add IJ ounces of sal ammoniac. This mix- ture has been for many years b trade secret of German gold workers, and commands a high price on the mar- ket. To Brighten Jewelry. — Heat to a boil J pint of soft water and pour it into a wide -mouthed glass bottle. Add 1 ounce of cyanide of potassium and shake until dissolved. When cold, add i fluid ounce of aqua ammonia and I fluid ounce of pure alcohol. This mixture is a deadly poison and must not touch any part of the skin. Even the fumes are most dangerous. To clean jewelry, make a hoop of a bit of wire, and with this dip the articles in the solution for a few sec- onds, remove, and rinse in clear water. Then wash with soapsuds to thor- oughly free from the cyanide, rinse, and dip in alcohol or benzine. To cause them to dry quickly, cover with sawdust. Cork the solution tightly for future use. Of course great care must be taken to keep this liquid out of the hands of children and careless persons. But if proper precautions are observed, it will be found to be one of the quickest ways to remove the tarnish from metallic articles and to give them their brightest luster. To Color Gold. — Mix saltpeter, 3 ounces; green copperas, 1 ounce; white vitriol, 1 ounce; alum, 1 ounce. This mixture gives yellow gold a dark or reddish color. The addition of a little blue vitriol gives a darker shade. To Clean Jet. — ^To clean jet arti- cles, brush them free from dust with a soft camel's-hair brush, apply a little olive oil by means of a brush or bit of cotton wool, and polish with chamois. Great care must be used, as the carving usually makes jet arti- cles very brittle. GLASS AND IVOEY To Cut Glass. — To cut glass with a chisel, cover it with a solution of camphor gum dissolved in spirits of turpentine, and do the cutting while the glass is in the solution. To Anneal Glass. — To anneal or season glass, as lamp chimneys and the like, so that they will be less likely to break, immerse the glass in a ves- sel of cold water and heat it very gradually to the boiling point. Boil for any length of time — the longer the better — and do not remove from the water until it is cold. Or, if the glass is to be exposed to high temperatures, it may be more perfectly annealed by boiling in the same manner in oil. To Imitate Stained Glass. — Cut a suitable pattern from leaves of col- ored tissue papers, and apply to the glass by any suitable paste or muci- lage, as rice or wheat starch, with or without gum arable. Cover with a coat of copal varnish. To Soften Ivory. — ^Dissolve 3 ounces of spirits of niter in 10 ounces of soft water, and soak the ivory in this solu- tion for 3 or 4 days, when it will be soft and flexible. Or immerse the ivory in a solution of pure phosphoric acid until it be- comes practically transparent. Wash with clean cold water and dry. It is then flexible, but hardens as it dries. Its flexibility may be restored by soaking in hot water. This process, if continued, will render the ivory transparent. To Harden Ivory. — ^Wrap the ivory in tissue paper, cover with dry salt, and lay away a day or two. This will restore its natural hardness. To Polish Ivory. — Moisten a piece of felt or velveteen, dip in putty pow- der or pumice stone, and polish. Or fix the ivory on a nail or wheel and polish it by means of pumice stone and water, heat it by friction on a piece of coarse cloth, and while hot rub with whiting mixed with olive oil, followed by dry whiting and clean chamois. This gives a high luster. Or rub first with fine sandpaper, next with a wet cloth dipped in pum- ice stone, then with a cloth wet in soapsuds and dipped in whiting. When changing from a coarse to a finer material, use clean cloths and i-inse the article free from grit. THE FAMILY WORKROOM 435 To Etch on Ivory. — Varnish the ar- ticle with a mixture of wliite wax and mastic or with a thin coating of bees- wax, and trace the required designs through the wax. Take care to pro- tect all parts of the article except the design, and immerse it in a strong solution of nitrate of silver. After a sufScient length of time, to be deter- mined by experiment, remove and wash in clear, hot water. The design will appear in black upon the ivory. Or protect the article by a suitable varnish as above, and apply a solu- tion of J ounce of sulphuric acid, J ounce of muriatic acid, and 10 ounces of water. The acids will eat away the exposed portions of the ivory, leaving the design engraved on its surface. GYFSTTU, ALABASTEB, ETC. Gypsum. — Gypsum is a mineral which is found in nature in several forms. Chemically it consists of bi- hydrated calcium sulphate. It occurs in translucent crystals, as selenite; in massive forms and opaque crystals, as gypsum; in fine-grained partially translucent masses, as alabaster, and in a fibrous form, as satin spar. When heated, gypsum gives off the water it contains and pulverizes into an opaque powder which, if moistened, quickly solidifies. This powder is known commercially as plaster of Paris. It is made by heating gypsum and grinding it to a fine powder. Gypsum is also used as a fertilizer, and in the manufacture of glass and porcelain. Plaster of Paris is chiefly used for making models and casts, and as a cement for marble and ala- baster. Among the most celebrated gypsum beds in the world are those of Mont- martre near Paris, which have given plaster of Paris its name. Alabaster. — This is a variety of gypsum of great beauty and easily carved on account of its softness; hence it is extensively employed for ornamental purposes. To Use Plaster of Paris. — To use plaster of Paris, mix it with water to the consistency of thick cream and apply at once, as it sets quickly. No more should be mixed at a time than will be required for immediate use. Or, if additional strength is desired, mix with a thin glue size, or a solu- tion of 1 or 3 ounces of gum arabic in 1 pint of water. These not only harden the plaster but give its sur- face a desirable smoothness. Or mix plaster of Paris with an equal weight of sulphate of potas- sium, and thin with 3 to 6 parts of water. This mixture sets very quick- ly and is harder than plaster of Paris alone. To Prevent Plaster of Paris from Setting. — Mix 2 per cent of alum, sulphate of potash, or borax, with plaster of Paris before adding water, and it will be prevented from solidi- fjring for 3 or 4 hours. Thus it can be handled much more readily. When dry, it will also be much harder than plaster of Paris alone. Or mix with vinegar diluted with water. The more vinegar used the longer the plaster will require to set. Molds for Plaster of Paris. — To make molds for casting plaster or- naments, mix 12 ounces of rosin, 8 ounces of tallow, and C ounces of beeswax. Or use plaster of Paris itself. Or mix equal quantities of clean white sand and pulverized limestone or marble dust, and to 14 pounds of this mixture add 1 pound of litharge and 4 pounds of linseed oil. Grind or rub up the litharge with the oil, heat the mixture of sand and lime- stone to di-yness, stir into a stiff mor- tar, and pour in an oiled mold. To Cast Plaster of Paris. — Oil the object to be copied and cover it to a sufficient depth with one of the above mixtures, so that when removed the mold will be strong enough to han- dle. If plaster of Paris is used to make the mold, the object to be cop- ied must be moistened, but no drops must be allowed to stand on the surface. The mold should be made in two parts, which may be done by molding 436 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES first one side up to » given line, and then the other. Leave an opening through which to pour the plaster. To make castings, it is only neces- sary to oil or moisten the inside of a mold. Lock the two parts of the mold together, oil the edges so that they can be readily separated, and pour the mold full of plaster from a funnel through the opening left for that purpose. After the plaster has set, the mold may be removed and used repeatedly. To Harden Plaster-of-Paris Ob- jects. — Put in an iron kettle 3 pounds of a solution of caustic potash. Add in shavings 2 ounces of stearin and 2 ounces of castile soap, and boil for half an hour, stirring constantly. Add 1 ounce of pearlash dissolved in a lit- tle soft water. Let the whole boil up, remove from the fire, and stir un- til cold. Now stir in cold potash lye imtil the mass becomes perfectly liquid and falls in drops from the stirrer. Let stand for several days tightly covered before using. This preparation will keep for years. Clean the plaster-of-Paris casts and other obj ects free from dust and - stains, and apply this mixture with a paint brush as long as the plaster of Paris wiU absorb it. Let dry and dust with a brush or chamois leather. Repeat, if necessary, until the casts take on a satisfactory polish. To Hake Artificial Marble. — Mix plaster of Paris with a solution of alum, put it in an oven, and bake un- til the water is completely evaporated. Afterwards grind to powder. Mix with water and stir in any desired coloring matter in powdered form to make clouds and veins. When dry, this mixture sets very hard and takes a high polish. To Imitate Alabaster. — To imitate alabaster with objects made of plaster of Paris, warm the articles and sus- pend them by means of horsehair or fine wire in melted white wax of the best quality. Continue until the plas- ter of Paris has absorbed all it can. Hang up the articles to dry, and pol- ish with a clean brush. Any pure white wax will answer this purpose. To harden these objects, suspend them in a clear solution of alum un- til crystals form upon the surface. Remove, and polish with a damp cloth. To Glean Alabaster. — Wash with castUe soap and water. Or, to remove stains, cover with white fuller's earth or pipe clay. Let stand for a few hours and wash off. Or, if much stained, wash with very dilute sulphuric acid, using about 1 ounce of sulphuric acid to 20 oimces of water. Or rub with a cloth moistened with lemon juice and dipped in pumice stone. Rinse with clear water and polish with a dry chamois. To Make Prepared Chalk. — ^Add a solution of carbonate of soda to a. solution of muriate of lime as long as the chalk is precipitated. Strain through filter paper and then pour on clear water until the sediment is perfectly clean. Dry in direct sun- shine. Safety Matches. — To make safety matches, mix 6 ounces of chloride of potash, 2 ounces of bichromate of pot- ash, 3 ounces of ferric oxide witii 3 ounces of strong liquid glue. Mix thoroughly with gentle heat, taking care that it does not take fire, and dip the match heads in this. These matches will not kindle on sandpaper or by ordinary friction, but must be rubbed on a surface especially pre- pared for them as follows: Mix 10 ounces of sulphide of anti- mony, 2 ounces of bichromate of pot- ash, 3 ounces of oxide of iron, lead, or manganese, 1 ounce of glass pow- der, 2 ounces of strong glue or gum. This preparation is spread like paint while warm on suitable paper, which is fastened on the boxes containing the matches. Or dissolve 4 ounces of gum arable in just enough water to make thick mucilage or paste, and stir in 4 ounces of powdered peroxide of man- ganese, 2J ounces of phosphorus, and place on the back of a closed stove, but do not heat above 130° F. or ex- THE FAMILY WORKROOM 43r pose to an open flame. Stir until the phosphorus is melted, then add 3i ounces of niter and stir the whole to a uniform paste. First dip the matches in melted brimstone, let dry, and afterwards dip the heads in this substance. This mixture may be per- fumed by the addition of J ounce of gum benzoin. The lids of the boxes may be coated with the same mix- ture by means of a brush, or pieces of sandpaper may be coated in the same manner, and attached to match safes or boxes for convenience in lighting. Ordinary Matches. — Dip the matches first in hot melted sulphur, let dry and steep in turpentine. Af- terwards dip the heads in a mixture of 5 ounces of chloride of potash, S ounces of flowers of sulphur, 1 ounce of vermilion mixed to a paste witli oil of turpentine. Or dip the matches in hot melted sulphur, steep in turpentine, and dip the heads in a mixture of 4 ounces of melted glue, 1 ounce of phosphorus with the addition of whiting stirred in to make it of the right consistency, and vei-milion or lampblack to color. CHAPTER XVI THE TOILET AND BATH THE SKIN— BATHS AND BATHING— KINDS OF BATHS— THE TOILET- TOILET SOAPS— MEDICATED SOAP— THE HANDS— MANICURING THE SKIN The Human Skin has Wo principal functions: to protect the body, and to remove, by perspiration, the re- sults of certain bodily changes. The skin consists of two layers, as may be clearly seen when blisters form. The upper layer or outer skin shows a tendency to form cells of a. horny substance, such appendages as the hair, nails, and corns being a con- tinuation of this process. These horny substances have the property of absorbing a certain amount of water. This softens them and caiises r-AT C£ilS. " The Anatomy of the Skin." them to swell. It is well known that the skin becomes soft by immersion in a hot bath or by having the hands for a considerable time in suds or dishwater, and that this softening ex- tends to the nails, corns, and calluses. After a warm bath a considerable quantity of the horny scales of the 438 skin can be removed by the use of a rough towel. Nails, corns, and the like when wet can be readily cut or scraped off. A considerable amount of water remains in the skin after bathing, and unless care is exercised it tends by rapid evaporation to re- move heat and to cause colds. But normally a certain amount of water should remain in the skin, and if too much of this evaporates, the skin chaps and cracks. The permanent color of the skin is due to certain pigment granules found in its inner layer. The tran- sient red color, as in blushing, de- pends lipon the amount of blood in the blood vessels and the thickness of the epidermis or outer skin, most of the blood vessels themselves lying in the inner skin. The skin contains sweat glands which secrete perspiration, and seba- ceous glands, which secrete a fatty substance that tends to keep the skin smooth and to prevent it from drying by too great evaporation. This fatty substance also gives the hair its nat- ural gloss. Obstruction of the sweat glands gives rise to pimples, black- heads, and the like. These are the principal facts regarding the anat- omy of the skin, which should be un- derstood by those who seek to im- prove its appearance. There is a direct and reciprocal action between the condition of the skin and the general bodily health. The two watchwords in the campaign for the preservation' or improvement of the complexion are, therefore, cleanliness and hygiene. Plenty of THE TOILET AND BATH 43d outdoor exercise, good ventilation, a well-regulated appetite, and a cheer- ful habit of mind are essential. As to diet, an excess of butter, fat meat, and greasy food should be avoided. AU stimulants, as coffee, tea, wine, and spirits, should be given up or used with great moderation. Fruit and vegetables should be the staples of diet) sweets, cake, and pastry, and also pickles and acid foods, should be dispensed with. If these instructions, with those given under baths and bathing, are followed until they be- come the habits of a. lifetime, the bloom of youth can be preserved far into old age. Hardening the Skin. — The power of the skin to adjust itself to changes in temperature varies great- ly. It can be increased by measures whicli improve the circulation of the blood, as nourishment and exercise; also by what is sometimes called the " hardening process." The skin may be hardened by living an out-of-door life, wearing light but sufficient cloth- ing with woolen next the body, sleep- ing with open windows but avoiding draughts, and taking daily baths, first with warm, afterwards with cold water. These steps should be taken gradually, and increased in severity as the body becomes accustomed to them. Nervous persons, especially chil- dren, may be overstiraulated by these measures, which may thus lead to lifelong nervous difSculties. The dan- ger is minimized by giving the warm bath first. Cold baths alone should not be taken except by persons of strong constitution. The air bath in various temperatures and currents of air is also a valuable means of hardening the skin. This hardening process tends to prevent colds and their consequences. Diseases of the Skin. — No general treatment can be suggested that will apply to aU. diseases of the skin. Eruptions and rashes are often symptomatic of diseases of the blood and other grave conditions. When a strange eruption suddenly appears on the skin a physician should, as a rule, be promptly consulted. There are, however, a number of common disease conditions which yield to sini- ple remedies. Among these are tan, sunburn, freckles, moth patches, pim- ples, blackheads or flesh worms, moles, etc. Slackheads or "Flesh Worms." — The fatty substance which exudes from the sebaceous glands of the skin, if not removed by washing, sometimes hardens and corks up the gland itself. As the gland continues to secrete this substance it accumu- lates and causes a hard lump or swelling. When these blackheads are numerous, they become very unsight- ly. The best treatment is to press out the contents between the fingers or press the hollow end of a. watch key over each speck. The entrance to these glands is in spiral form like a corkscrew. Hence the contents when pressed out have a, vermiform appearance, and are supposed by many to be small animal creatures, hence called " flesh worms," but this is not the case. A warm face bath twice a day, and gentle friction from a soft towel, as above directed, is the best preventive and remedy for this condition. Spe- cifics for blackheads are the sulphate of zinc or of copper, or common pot- ash properly diluted. To use, mix 20 grains of sulphate of zinc or copper in 1 pint of dis- tilled water or rose water, or mix 1 dram of fluid potash with 1 ounce of oil of sweet almonds. Then add 6 ounces of pure soft water. First press out the contents of the black- head, rub with a rough towel, and apply this lotion with a camel's-hair brush or soft rag. A face wash containing fluid pot- ash, 1 ounce, cologne, 3 ounces, alco- hol, 4 ounces, is also beneficial. rreckles. — Freckles are discolora- tions formed in the deeper layers of the skin by the action of sunlight. Hence to affect them directly it is necessary to work through the outer layers of the skin with a remedy that 440 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES will change the deposits of coloring matter. Freckles, accordingly, offer great resistance and are not amena- ble to ordinary treatment. Some au- thorities are of the opinion that in- digestion may resvilt in a deposit of carbonaceous or fatty matter beneath the skin, which, when acted upon by sunlight, will produce freckles. Hence, as a preventive, attention should be paid to diet and exercise to promote the normal secretions. The skin should be kept scrupulously clean by daily bathing, and the ac- tivity of the pores should be pro- moted by friction with a coarse towel. These methods are safer than the use of astringents or mineral emulsions, and the latter should never be employed without the advice of a competent physician. The only cer- tain preventive is the wearing of a brown veil whenever the complexion is exposed to sunlight. Moth Patches. — ^Apply a solution of common baking soda to the patches with a. soft rag or camel's- hair brush several times a day for two or three days. Allow this to dry on. This treatment is usually sufB- cient. Afterwards cleanse the face with a bran bath and the skin wiU usually be found clear and brilliant. Or keep alum at hand and rub oc- casionally on the moth patches. This will usually cause them to disappear. Holes. — ^Depilatories advertised for sale for the removal of moles are dangerous and their use is not rec- ommended. They frequently continue eating into the flesh until an ulcer is formed, and occasionally blood poi- son sets in. Some moles are of the nature of tumors, and too much care cannot be exercised in treating them. Concentrated acetic acid applied by means of a hair pencil will some- times do the work. If this succeeds once it can be used again, but it will not prevent the blemish from return- ing. Care must be taken that the acid does not extend to surrounding parts. Moles can sometimes be destroyed by the use of a burning glass. The patient must take his place in the clear, strong sunlight, and focus the burning glass on the affected part for about five minutes at a time daily, until the mole has been de- stroyed. Needless to say, this is a painful process, but it cannot be re- garded as dangerous. The electric needle in the hands of a competent physician is a thor- oughly safe and reliable method of treatment. Pimples. — The immediate cause of pimples is usually an excess of fatty matter in the skin. They are very common in young persons from four- teen to twenty years of age. They are often caused by constitutional conditions, and when very numerous are often persistent until the general health is restored. Exercise, atten- tion to the diet, and general hygienic measures are recommended. A warm face bath with a heaping teaspoonful of borax in the water will be found helpful. Scars. — Little scars are often left on the face after eruptions. A course of electric massage treatment soon effaces them. For home treat- ment, every night apply to the face a cold compress, keeping it on until the flesh becomes pink, then anoint the little spots with ointment of zinc oxide. Ointment for' Wrinkles or Relaxed Skin. — To 10 grains of camphor add 3 ounces of prepared lard and 1 fluid dram of rectified spirits of wine. Apply a little of the ointment at night, previously washing the face, and strengthen the body by means of tonics and nourishing diet. Or bathe the parts where the wrin- kles appear with alum and water. This wiU tighten the skin. Or fresh butter, 2 drams; essence of turpentine, 2 drams; mastic, 1 dram. BATHS AND BAIHIir& Historians say that the civilization of a commimity can be estimated by the quantity of soap it consumes. THE TOILET AND BATH 441 Similarly the refinement of a family- is indicated by the amount of water it uses. Records of cities show that the amount used each day on an average by each person runs from seven or eight gallons among the poor, where there is only one faucet in the house, to about sixty gallons in the .homes of wealthy persons. The average of an ordinary famUy in cities may be taken as about twenty gallons daily for each member. More water is used in the summer than in the win- ter — which is an argument in favor of a bathroom, even where there is no furnace in the house. About ten barrels of water would be required every day on this basis by a family of ten persons. A humorist has said that mankind may be divided into two classes — those who take a full bath every day, and those who do not. Many folks would think this writer a snob, but the daily bath is common in house- , holds which enjoy all the modern conveniences. The daily " tub " of the English gentlemen is proverbial, and laughable stories are told of the efforts made by Englishmen to keep up this practice under difficulties. A great many English officers took fold- ing bath tubs with them on baggage trains during the recent war in South Africa, and tried to enjoy their daily morning tub even under fire. This is extreme. But most families ought to approach nearer to this ideal than they ordinarily do. The weekly bath, however, is cus- tomary in homes where there is no bathroom, but this custom might be even more generally observed. The habit of bathing grows, in most cases, out of regard for appearances rather than regard for health. The grimly facetious remark of a certain wid- ower, who had been bereaved a num- ber of times, that he was going to take a bath, because he always made it a point of doing so before being married, whether he needed it or not, hints at a habit of mind which is quite commonf Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness, and it is certain that the habit of church attendance is in many households a strong incentive to the custom of weekly bathing. The same remark applies to social gatherings, and such events as wed- dings, christenings, and funerals. The bath is the foundation of the toilet. Most persons naturally take a bath preparatory to putting on their Sunday clothes or other holiday at- tire. If this were not the case we fear that consideration of the health, based on modern hygienic science, would not of itself be sufficient in- ducement to bathe. But when a per- son is half persuaded by custom to take a weekly bath, any knowledge he may have of its advantages to health will help him to decide in its favor. In "Trilby" the Jew Svengali laughed immoderately at the two English gentlemen for bathing daily, when they " were not dirty." He overlooked the point that the proper function of the bath is not to make us clean, but to keep us so. The himian skin contains millions of pores. The business of these pores is to bring to the surface the waste materials of the body, which other- wise pass off principally through the kidneys. If the pores become clogged by the accumulation of effete matter they are unable to fulfill their proper functions, and the kidneys are obliged to do extra work, which may bring on chronic diseases of those or- gans. Colds are caused by lack of proper contraction of the pores of the skin when the body is exposed from draughts or otherwise. As a result the blood is cooled too rapidly and has a tendency to chill and congest the internal organs, as the mucous surfaces of the head and nose, and also of the alimentary canal, the kid- neys, etc. The resulting symptoms show in acute form the bad effects of neglect of bathing. In fact, fre- quent bathing is almost a sure pre- ventive of colds. If the pores are HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES kept clean they are active, and resist the chills which tend to produce cold. If they are not kept clean they are sluggish and inactive, and in no con- dition to offer normal resistance to sudden changes in temperature. Certain portions of the body, as the armpits, the feet, and the groin, have many more pores to the square inch than the rest; hence these perspire more freely and should be cleansed often. The feet especially should be very frequently washed. There is no better practice from the health stand- point than a daily footbath. The Bathroom. — Bathrooms are no longer a novelty in small towns and farmhouses. But it must be under- stood that to enjoy these in winter. "No Longer a Noveliy." requires almost of necessity a range or furnace. Pipes in kitchens may be kept warm by stoves, and bathrooms ad j oining the kitchen may be warmed by leaving the door open between or the bathroom may be over the kitchen, and a drum or smokepipe from the kitchen stove arranged so as to heat the pipes in the bathroom. But it is usually better not to have running water in the bathroom in winter until a furnace is put in. It pays, however, to partition off a bathroom near the kitchen and put in a bath tub, if there is rimning water or a hand pump in the bath- room, with drainpipes to carry away waste — even if it is necessary to car- ry cold water to the tub from the kitchen sink and hot water from the stove in pails. A good bath tub is not a luxury, but a necessity to com- fort, cleanliness, and health. If the bathroom is near the kitchen, the tub can be filled by bringing hot and cold water in pails; and if the tub is elevated slightly, the water can be drawn off in pails and carried to the drain after the bath; or, if a tub is used which does not have a, faucet for drainage, the waste water can be easily removed by using a small piece of rubber tube as a siphon, or by a dipper and large bath sponge. Every household should be provided with a full-size tub, even if it is only of tin. I'ortable rubber tubs which can be folded and put away when not in use are also obtainable. But a cast-iron tub is preferable and not too expen- sive. The entire cost of pliunbing for a bathroom, including supply pipe, hot- water pipe, and all necessary fixtures, provided you have a water supply in the house, will not exceed $150. This sum can be reduced by doing some of the work yourself. Even if there is no furnace, the bathroom can be used from early spring to late fall, and especially through the summer season, when it is above aU essential to hetilth and comfort. Every family should make the necessary sacrifices to put in and enjoy this great convenience. To Faint an Iron Bath Tub. — Mix the paint to a proper consistency with best coachmaker's japan var- nish. For white-lead paint, use half turpentine and half coachmaker's ja- pan. It will not darken much. Ve- netian red is best for a first coat for any color but white. Bathroom Conveniences. — Conven- ience has a great deal to do with the formation of habits; and parents, especially mothers, who desire to cul- tivate habits of personal cleanliness in the household, wiU find that a THE TOILET AND BATH 44B bathroom furnished with the neces-: sary conveniences will largely solve this problem. A closet should be constructed in one corner of the bathroom and stocked with the accessories of the bath and toilet. A wire basket can be purchased for a few cents, or made by any ingeni- ous member of the family, to hang on the edge of the bath tub and hold sponge, soap, etc. This will be found to be a great convenience. A hamper or laundry hag makes a convenient receptacle for soiled body and household linen; or separate bags might be arranged — one for each kind. A set time for each member of the family to take the weekly bath will also tend to promote the convenience of the household. Saturday night and Sunday morning are probably the best times for most persons. The weekly bath thus becomes a prepa- ration for the Sunday morning toilet, which is ordinarily the most careful and elaborate of the week. The following suggestions and rec- ipes have been grouped about the idea of a thorough weekly personal " cleaning up " and toilet for " over Sunday." The reader will, of course, understand that these remarks and recipes apply equally well to the daily morning baths and those for special occasions; and in many cases specific recommendations for these occasions have been made. Dont's , for Bathers. — Don't take any kind of a bath within two hours after eating a hearty meal. Don't neglect a daily bath of some kind. Don't neglect the daily Sim and air bath. Don't take a cold bath when fa- tigued; but take a bath in water as hot as can be borne. It will help to rest you. Don't strip for a bath when the body is cooling after perspiration, but step into a warm bath while the body is heated. Don't stay too long in the water. Get out before you begin to feel chilly. Don't stand around on the bank or in boats after bathing until you get a chill. Don't bathe early in the morning on an empty stomach unless you are vigorous and strong enough to stand it. The best time for you may be two or three hours after breakfast. Don't neglect the weekly hot-water bath, followed by a change of cloth- ing to keep the body clean and healthy. Don't believe that you can get rid of wrinkles by filling them in with powder. Just before going to bed bathe your face in warm, then in cold water. And quit worrying. It will save you many a wrinkle. Temperature of the Bath. — The temperature of the bath for cleanli- ness should be about 95° F. A cold shower bath or douche to follow the warm bath should be about 77° F. A cool bath should be about 77° F., "A Homemade Shower Bath. but the temperature at the start may be lowered for those who are accus- tomed to it. The water for a person in ordinary health should be drawn about as hot as is agreeable; but care should be taken not to remain too long in a 444 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES hot bath. This applies especially to persons who are thin-blooded, ner- vous, or neuralgic. After the body has been thoroughly cleansed, it is a good idea to gradually introduce cold water into the tub until a perceptible chill is felt. If there is running water in the bathroom, a shower bath may be had by obtaining the detachable rubber tubes and fixtures used for this pur- pose, which come very cheap. The shower bath is the best means of cooling the Itody after a hot bath. When this is done, or after a cold bath, a reaction should be brought about by a vigorous rubbing with a Turkish towel until the body is in a warm glow. This practice would al- most certainly prevent all colds and many fevers, with their fatal conse- quences. KINDS OF BATHS Outdoor Bathing. — This form of bathing, if moderately indulged in, is an excellent exercise for bodily devel- opment. In warm climates it may be practiced throughout the year; but in northern latitudes fresh-water bath- ing should not be indulged in except in summer. There are some fanatics who recommend outdoor bathing throughout the year, and now and then a person is strong enough to endure such exposure. But to rec- ommend it to everybody is foolish, if not criminal. Particular care should be taken in outdoor bathing that the body does not suffer a chill. A reac- tion should be produced by rubbing briskly' with a dry towel. Sea Bath. — A trip to the seashore for the purpose of salt-water bath- ing is very beneficial to persons in a run-down condition, with the excep- tion of those suffering from nervous diseases, heart diseases, or consump- tion. Salt-water bathing is especially good for children who have scrofula, and for persons who have catarrh. Salt water and salt air are stimu- lating and invigorating. The shock caused by the surf tends to produce a healthful fatigue which strengthens the bodily functions and promotes hunger and appetite. Bathers in salt water, especially invalids, should leave the water before they are chilled or overtired, dry the body thoroughly, and follow the bath by some mild exercise, as walking. Air Bath. — After the bath all per- sons, especially children, should ex- pose the body to the air for. a con- siderable length of time. Benjamin Franklin says that every morning at daybreak he was accustomed to get out of bed, and pass more or less than an hour, according to the sea- son, in writing or reading in his chamber without any clothes; and he adds that this custom was agreeable rather than otherwise. There is no doubt that light, especially direct sunlight, upon the skin is one of the most valuable agents for the preser- vation of health. A complete change of clothing should be made after the bath. The contact of clothing with the skin greatly promotes its secretions, and this is very necessary to health. Flannel generates heat — Whence opens the pores of the skin and allows the secretions to flow. It is therefore the proper clothing next the body. If the effete matter thrown off by the skin in perspiration is retained by the clothing, the gravest conse- quences to health may result in addi- tion to the discomforts of imcleanli- ness. Colds, fevers, and vermin of all sorts are merely human ignorance, laziness, and uncleanliness out on ex- hibition. Cold Sponge Bath. — Many persons make a practice of taking a cold sponge bath every morning, followed by vigorous rubbing vrith a coarse towel or ilesh brush. The best meth- od of doing this is to fill a washbowl or basin with water and let it stand in the room over night, so as to ac- quire the same temperature as the air in the room. Rub with the bare hands rather than with a. cloth or sponge, wetting only a small portion of the body at a time and rubbing THE TOILET AND BATH 44d that portion until a reaction is expe- rienced. Washing the face and head, next the arms, the baclt, the lower portion of the chest, and the lower limbs, in the order mentioned, is a good rule for cold-water bathing. After the rub-down with a coarse towel, the skin should be pink, all in a tingle, and the whole surface of the body should be in a warm glow. Some persons cannot endure this regimen, although it is highly bene- ficial to others. A few days or weeks of experience will test its expediency. This is worth trying, because it often results in a life habit which is ex- ceedingly beneficial. Those who are less robust may obtain some of the benefits of the cold sponge bath by a vigorous rubbing with a towel or flesh brush each morning when the bath is not taken. When bathing in winter, the shock from cold water is lessened by standing a minute in the cold air after removing the clothing and before applying the water. Footbath. — This bath may be taken for cleansing purposes or for the purpose of drawing the blood from other parts of the body. Con- gestion of blood in the head may be relieved by a footbath in cold water. If convenient, the patient may walk for a few minutes in a brook or stream reaching about to the ankles. This may be followed by a brisk rub- bing and some exercise, as walking. Or the patient may first put his feet in hot water for from three to five minutes and then plunge them for half a minute into cold water. Af- terwards the feet should be rubbed dry and the person should take ex- ercise by walking. ^ Salt-water Bath. — Add 4 or S pounds of sea salt, which can be pur- chased of any druggist, to a full bath at the temperature of 65° F. The patient should remain in this bath from 10 to 30 minutes, and after- wards should rest for half an hour in a recumbent position. Such baths are useful in general debility pro- duced by wasting diseases, as scrof- ula and other diseases of the skin. anaemia, etc. Sea salt should not be used for children. It does not pene- trate the skin, but acts as a stimu- lant. Uustard Bath. — The addition of 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered mustard to a hot footbath in cases of chill is a preventive against taking cold, and is also useful in the early stages of colds to induce perspira- tion. The feet should be taken out of this bath as soon as the skin red- dens and begins to smart. The parts bathed should be carefully cleansed, rinsed, and wiped dry. Great care should be exercised in giving mustard baths to children, else the skin may become badly blistered. The Bran Bath. — Make a decoction of wheat bran by boiling 4 or 5 poimds of wheat bran in a linen bag. The juice extracted, and also the bran itself, .should be put into the water. This is for a full bath at a temperature of about 90° F. This bath is of service in all skin affec- tions accompanied by itching. Cabinet Baths. — A number of spe- cial cabinets are devised for giving different kinds of baths for medicinal purposes. Purchasing one of these is usually not necessary unless there are one or more invalids in the fam- ily. In such cases the selection of a suitable cabinet should be made only upon the advice of the family physi- cian. The following forms of bath- ing require the use of cabinets: Stool Bath. — This is likewise known as the Russian bath. It consists in filling a room with steam at a tem- perature Under low pressure of about 120° F. Stool baths are very little used, but the same effect is produced by a cabinet which has an opening for the head so that the patient is not obliged to breathe the steam. A steam bath for the face and head may be obtained by holding the face over a receptacle fuU of boiling wa- ter, and throwing a cloth or oilcloth over the head and shoulders so as to partly prevent the escape of the steam. The Hot-air Bath.— In the Turk- 446 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ish bath, several connecting rooms are heated to different degrees of temperature, and the patient passes slowly from the coolest to the warm- est room for the purpose of inducing perspiration. He is then given a cold shower or douche, rubbed dry, wrapped in blankets and permitted to rest. These baths are very ener- vating and should only be taken by persons of strong constitution. The hot-air bath, however, for the pur- pose of inducing perspiration, is su- perior to the steam bath. It should be so taken that the person's head will be outside of the cabinet and he will not be obliged to breathe the hot air. A temperature of 120° to 130° F. is sufficient. Great care should be taken that the air does not become superheated, as danger is likely to ensue from a temperature exceeding 140° F. The patient should not re- main in the hot-air bath more than fifteen or twenty minutes, and should then be given a cool bath and rubbed down. If additional perspiration is desired, he should be wrapped in blankets. Steam baths and hot-air baths should ordinarily be taken only by and with the jidvice of the family physician. THE TOILET The Complexion. — The object of attention to the complexion should be to preserve the skin in its normal condition of health, and to remove all abnormal eifects and conditions. Among these may be mentioned ex- cessive dryness or evaporation, by exposure to dry and biting winds, of the water normally contained in the skin; the opposite extreme of exces- sive perspiration; and the obstruction of the pores by dirt or grime or other causes, which is the parent of various eruptions and other skin diseases. These subjects are taken up in turn in the following pages, and the prin- cipal standard remedies are cited. Many persons regard attention to these matters as evidence of vanity and light-headedness, and others go to the opposite extreme and give much more time and thought to tlie niceties of the toilet than is either wise or necessary. Doubtless the wise and sane course lies between these two extremes. The normal condition of the skin resulting in a firm, smooth, and soft texture and a clear pink-and-white complexion, not only contributes to personal attractive- ness, but also to the sense of comfort, included in the general term " good health." Women (and men, too) have a natural right to a good complexion. The contrary is evidence of some im- proper or diseased condition, and it is perfectly natural and proper to seek and apply suitable remedies. Beauty Doctors. — On the other hand, we earnestly advise against the patronage of so-called "beauty doc- tors," many of whom are unquestion- ably quacks and charlatans, and we urge the use of homemade prepara- tions. Many of the standard prepa- rations widely advertised for sale contain the most injurious mineral drugs, such, for example, as mercury, arsenic, lead, bismuth, etc. These are freely used by many " beauty doc- tors," and we regret to say that rec- ipes containing them have been pub- lished without caution in many books of household recipes which have had a wide circulation. All such prepa- rations have been carefully excluded from this volume. Approved recipes have been given which will accom- plish every desirable object without _the possibility of any injurious con- sequences. Homemade Toilet Preparations. — Many toilet preparations advertised for sale contain organic substances which deteriorate by decaying, and in this condition poison the skin. More- over, most proprietary articles are very expensive. We feel safe in as- suring the most careful and conserv- ative mothers that the compounding at home and use of any of the prep- arations herein recommended will be a. perfectly safe and innocent em- THE TOILET AND BATH 447 ployment for their daughters or themselves. Any disposition to do so should, we think, be encouraged. A few vials of essential oils as per- fumes, small quantities of almonds and other required ingredients, may be bought at the drug store for less than a single bottle of a proprietary article can be purchased, and all in- terested will have the satisfaction of knowing that the materials are fresh and of good quality, and that no harmful consequences from their use need be feared. Country girls should have the best complexions in the world, but this is not always the case. Those who have not been favored by nature in this respect very often envy their city cousins' supposed advantages of easy access to "beauty doctors" and the large department stores and drug stores where toilet preparations of all sorts are for sale. The country girl has, in fact, a pronounced advan- tage over her city cousin if she has the wit to utilize it. Many of the most effective agents and remedies for the toilet are to be had in every farmhouse, and it is safe to say that the country girl can stock her dress- ing table with a full line of toilet preparations if she so desires, of bet- ter quality than her city cousin can purchase. And she can do so much more cheaply and conveniently. To Preserve the Complexion. — To prevent the excessive evaporation of water normally present in the skin, it is well to rub a small quantity of cold cream over the face before going out in the hot sun or wind. Just enough should be used to cover the surface without its being notice- able. In hot climates the use of similar preparations to prevent the drying of the skin is practically uni- versal. A veil is also a desirable protection against bad weather. Chiffon or other material of the finest mesh should be preferred. Frenchwomen of the middle and upper classes never think of going out without a veil. Englishwomen and the inhabitants of warm climates generally tarry para- sols. To Wash the Face.— When the face is red or dry from exposure to sun and air, or grimed with dirt or smoke, it is well to put on It a quan- tity of cold cream and rub thor- oughly with d soft cloth. After the irritation has been somewhat less- ened, the face should be thoroughly washed and cleansed. Fill a basin two thirds full of fresh soft water. If your source of water supply is hard water, put a teaspoonful of powdered borax into the basin. Dip the face in the water, and afterwards the hands. Soap the hands well, and rub with a gentle motion over the face. Dip the face a second time, rinse thoroughly, and wipe with a thick, soft towel. After the bath a slightly astringent lotion is very re- freshing. The use of a good cleansing cream before the face bath and a suitable lotion afterwards has a really won- derful effect in improving the com- plexion. The effect of a clean face, however, is itself altogether delight- ful. Such a bath tends to rest and refresh the bather and put her in a good temper. Many a bad complex- ion is due to neglect of a proper cleansing process. If more faces were kept really clean, a great improve- ment in the complexion would be no- ticed. race Cloth. — The hands themselves, in the judgment of many persons, are the most effective means of wash- ing other portions of the body. To those who prefer face cloths we sug- gest scrim as the most sanitary ma- terial. Scrim is porous and free from lint, so that the air circulates through it freely. It is so thin that it can be quickly washed and dried. The Toilet Sponge. — The wash rag and the sponge, while convenient and regarded by many as indispensable, are often sources 'of injury to the skin. Children, especially, are prone to take a sponge from dirty water and squeeze it dry without rinsing. The decaying organic matter caught 448 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES in the pores of the sponge gives rise to certain acids and ferments very Injurious to the complexion. Both the sponge and the wash rag should be thoroughly cleansed and rinsed after use. To clean a sour sponge, put 1 teaspoonful each of ammonia and borax into a basin of warm wa- ter, wash the sponge, rinse in clean soft water and hang in the air, ex- posed to sunshine if possible, untU dry. TOILET SOAPS Soaps. — Pure soaps do not irritate the skin. There are two principal kinds of soaps: those confining free alkali in the form of potash or soda lye, and the so-called neutral or fatty soaps. The former increase the swell- ing and softening of the horny parts of the skin. When these are removed, they of course take the dirt with them. The latter are better adapted to persons of sensitive skin, although their detergent effects are not so marked. Among these are castile, glycerin, curd soaps, and the like. Medicated and highly colored or scented soaps should rarely be used, and we recommend purchasing for household use only well-known soaps which have an established reputation for purity and general satisfaction. It must be borne in mind that toilet preparations which may give good effects on one skin are sometimes in- jurious to another. Glycerin is said to burn some skins, and benzoin cannot be used by some persons. This shows how important it is for a. woman to know what ingredients are used in making up her toilet preparations. It is not always safe to " try " some compound, the con- tents of which are unknown, be- cause it is highly recommended by others. On the other hand, the difference in results obtained by two women may often be attributed to the dif- ference in the method of use. One woman will cleanse her face thor- oughly as above indicated, while the other will merely apply a cream or lotion when the skin may be covered with grime and the pores filled with dirt. The result may be to still fur- ther clog the pores and produce an eruption of pimples and blackheads. No preparation can give satisfactory results in the absence of absolute cleanliness. Toilet Soaps. — These soaps are dis- tinguished by the purity of their in- gredients, as almond oil, beef mar- row, refined lard, and the like. They are usually saponified without heat, and may be perfumed according to taste. Any neutral hard white soap may be used as a foundation for toilet soaps if prepared as follows: Shave the soap thin or run it through a meat cutter, and melt in a double boiler with rose water, orange-flower water, or otjier distilled water, and common salt, in the pro- portion of 6 pounds of soap to 1 pint each of rose water or orange-flower water and 2 ounces of salt. After boiling, allow the mixture to cool. Cut it into small squares with a cord or wire, and dry without ex- posing to the sun. When dry, melt it again down with the same proportion of rose water or orange-flower water. Strain, cool, and dry thoroughly in a warm oven. Now reduce it to pow- der and expose it to the air under a screen. Coloring matter and perfume may be added according to taste. Other methods of purifying common household soaps and recipes for standard popular toilet soaps are given below. Among the most popular toilet ar- ticles are honey, Windsor, borax, glyc- erin, and almond soaps, besides a multitude of soaps which derive their name from the various perfumes added, as cinnamon, orange flower, sandalwood, rose, musk, violet, citron, etc. Perfumed Soaps.— Soaps may be perfumed by adding a few drops of any essential oil, or a proportionately larger quantity of essences or per- fumed distilled waters to the saponi- fied mass while cooling, but before THE TOILET AND BATH 449 hard soap has become cool enough to set. If perfumes are added while the soap is too hot they tend to vola- tilize and escape with the steam; if the soap is too cold they cannot be readily incorporated. Ordinary soap may be perfumed by cutting it with alcohol or other spirits and adding the perfume before the mixture hard- ens; or by melting up the soap in a small quantity of water, adding the perfume, and evaporating the excess of water by very gentle heat in a double boiler. Or the soap may be reduced to shavings, moistened slight- ly with distilled water, and the per- fume incorporated by Ixneading or by the use of a mortar and pestle. Honey Soap. — This is common yel- low soap of good quality, to which has been added a certain proportion of pure strained honey and other in- gredients. Shave and melt in a dou- ble boiler 2 pounds of yellow soap. Add 4 oimces of palm oil, 4 ounces of honey, and 1 ounce of oil of cin- namon or other perfume according to taste. BoU for 10 minutes. While cooling stir vigorously with an egg beater to thoroughly emulsify the in- gredients. Cool. Ready for use as soon as hardened. Windsor Soap. — This is a trade term which denotes merely a pure white soap, the base of which is 10 parts of any pure animal fat, as rec- tified suet or lard, and about 1 part of olive oil or bleached palm oil, to which are added any perfume, as the essential oil of bergamot. Almond Soap. — Almond oil may be saponified with caustic soda by a process similar to that of making other hard soaps. About IJ pounds of caustic soda will be required to saponify 7 pounds of almond oil. Mix the soda, lye, and almond oil gradually, boiling hot. Boil and stir until saponification is complete, add- ing more oil or lye as may be neces- sary. Or melt fine, pure, hard white soap, and add the essence of bitter almonds in the proportion of IJ per cent by weight. Borax Soap,— Dissolve 3 ounces of borax in 2 quarts of boiling water. Shave 2 pounds of pure white hard soap and add to the solution. Stir and simmer with gentle heat until the ingredients are thoroughly melted and mixed. When cold the soap is ready for use. Soap from Corn Meal or Oatmeal. — Both of these articles are useful for the toilet, having the property of making the skin smooth, soft, and white. In summer mix 2 teacupfuls of corn meal with 1 tablespoonful of powdered borax, and use as a cleans- ing agent. Or shave 12 ounces of neutral white hard soap, add enough water to keep it from burning, and melt with gentle heat. Stir in 4 ounces of cornstarch, and perfume according to taste. Or melt together 12 ounces of hard white soap, 5 ounces of palm soap, and 3 ounces of cocoanut oil or ma- rine soap; add 3 ounces of oatmeal or wheat bran. These ingredients should be incorporated with gentle heat in a double boiler. The soap will be improved if the mixture is thoroughly beaten with an egg beater to make a complete emulsion after it has been removed from the fire. Ready for use when cold and dry. Or cut fine 1 pound of castile or other hard white soap, add enough water to prevent it from burning, and melt with gentle heat. Stir while melting to form a thick, smooth paste of the consistency desired. Put this in a bowl to cool. Perfume with any essential oil or perfumed water, incorporating the perfume with an egg beater. Now stir in Indian meal until the paste thickens. This must be kept in a fruit jar or other cov- ered glass vessel, as it will spoil if exposed to the air. Soft Soap for the Toilet. — A liquid soap may be made for the toilet of sweet oil saponified with caustic pot- ash. Take of the sweet oil 7 parts; caustic potash, 1 part. Put these in- gredients in a double boiler with a, small quantity of rose water or other 450 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES perfumed water. Beat the mixture with a spoon or an egg beater until a complete emulsion forms, and sim- mer until saponification takes place. Now add sufficient rose water to re- duce the mixture to any desired con- sistency. Marine or Salt-water Soap. — Dis- solve 8 ounces of caustic soda in 3 quarts of boiling water to form a lye. Now melt with gentle heat 30 ounces of cocoanut oil or cocoanut lard. Gradually add the lye, stir- ring constantly until saponification takes place. One ounce of fused Glauber's salts wiU cause the soap to harden. Camphor Soap. — Dissolve in a dou- ble boiler 1 pound of neutral hard white soap in 8 fiuid ounces of boil- ing water. Continue boiling until by evaporation the soap has the consist- ency of butter. Now add 6 fluid ounces of olive oil in which 1 dram of prepared camphor has been pre- viously mingled. Take the mixture from the stove and beat up with an egg beater until a complete emulsion forms. This is a valuable remedy for chaps and scratches. Citron Soap. — To 6 pounds of curd soap add | pound of attar citron, J ounce of verbena (lemon grass), 4 ounces of attar bergamot, and 2 ounces of attar lemon. Frangipani Soap. — ^To 7 pounds of light-brown curd soap add J ounce of civet, J ounce of attar neroli, IJ ounces of attar santal, J ounce of at- tar rose, and J ounce of attar viti- vert. Cinnamon Soap. — Add 3 ounces of palm-oil soap to 3 ounces of tallow soap, i ounce of water, 7 ounces of essence cinnamon, 2 ounces of essence bergamot, and 1 ounce of essence sas- safras. Stir in enough yellow ocher to color as desired. Sandalwood Soap. — To 7 pounds of curd soap, add 2 ounces Of attar bergamot and 7 ounces of attar san- tal. Sand Soap. — To 7 pounds of curd soap, add 7 pounds of marine soap, 25 pounds of silver sand, 2 ounces of attar thyme, 3 ounces of attar cassia, 2 ounces of attar caraway, and 2 ounces of attar French lavender. Soap a la Kose. — Take 30 pounds of Castile soap, and add 20 pounds of tallow soap, sufficient water to melt, 3 ounces of attar rose, 1 ounce of es- sence cinnamon, 2J ounces of essence bergamot, IJ ounces of vermilion, and 1 ounce of essence cloves. Mnsk Soap. — Add 26 pounds of palm-oil soap to 30 pounds of tallow soap, 4 ounces of essence bergamot, 5 ounces of powdered pale roses, 3} ounces of musk, and 4^ oimces of brown ocher. Tonqnin Soap. — Take 6 pounds of light-brown curd soap and 1 ounce of attar bergamot, and add i ounce of grain musk and 8 ounces of es- sence cloves. Wash Balls. — Any good toilet soap may be made into balls of any de- sired size by a process similar to making butter balls, i. e., by using two wooden paddles. The addition of starch helps to give the soap the right consistency. Melt 7 pounds of neutral white bar soap in distilled water or rose water sufficient to prevent burning. Add 1 ounce of powdered starch and more water, if necessary, to form a stiff paste. If too much water is added, continue the heat until the excess of water evaporates. Stir in 8 ounces of powdered wheat starch or corn- starch, and add essence of almonds according to taste. Remove from the fire, thoroughly incorporate the materials with an egg beater, mix or knead with the hands, and make into balls of any desired size. UEBICATEI) SOAP Soaps are frequently used as the vehicle for various remedial agents, as sulphur, iodine, tar, and the like, for diseases of the skin. Also for disinfectants, as carbolic apid, chlo- rine, and others. Any neutral white hard soap may be medicated by being dissolved in water. The following are especially recommended : THE TOILET AND BATH 451 Sulphur Soap. — Shave 2 ounces of soft soap and add J ounce of flowers of sulphur and 3 fluid drams of proof spirits, which may be per- fumed and colored according to taste. Mix the ingredients thoroughly in an earthenware bowl or marble mor- tar. Sulphur is a valuable remedy in itch and other diseases of the skin. Iodine Soap. — Dissolve 1 pound of white castile soap shaved fine in 3 fluid ounces of distilled water or rose water. Add 1 oiince of iodide of potassium. Put in a double boiler, melt, and mix by stirring. Iodine is a valuable remedy in scrofula and other diseases of the skin. Juniper -tar Soap. — Dissolve 4 ounces of tar of the juniper tree in 1 pound of almond oil or olive oil. Put on the fire in a double boiler, and add gradually v/eak soda lye, stirring constantly until saponifica- tion takes place. Tar is a valuable remedy in all kinds of skin diseases. This soap is really an ointment. It should be applied at night and washed away next morning. Carbolic - acid Soap. — Take 5 pounds of fresh cocoanut oil or ma- rine soap, melt, and add S ounces of alcohol, 3 ounces of carbolic acid, 1 ounce of caustic potash, and J ounce of almond oil. Stir imtil the ingre- dients are thoroughly incorporated, and cool in molds. Soap with Chlorine. — Shave 11 ounces of castile soap, dry in warm oven, and reduce to a powder. Add 1 ounce of fresh dry chloride of lime. Add a sufficient quantity of proof spirits to cut this mixture and reduce it to the consistency of dough. This soap must be kept from the air, which may be done by packing it in glass fruit jars with tight metal caps. It is especially valuable in the sick room and for nurses in contagious diseases. It also has the property of removing stains from the skin and making it white. Soap with Arsenic. — This is a paste made by mixing 12 ounces of carbonate of potash with 4 oimces each of white arsenic, white soap, and air-slaked lime, with sufficient water to reduce to the required con- sistency. Powdered camphor, | ounce, may also be added with advan- tage. Or mix white soap, 8 ounces; pow- dered lime, 3 ounces; arsenious acid, 8 ounces; carbonate of potassa, 3 ounces, and gum camphor, IJ ounces. Reduce the ingredients separately to powder and mix. These two arseni- cal soaps are poisonous, and should be labeled accordingly and kept out of the way of children and household pets. They are used as preservatives in preparing the skins of birds and other animals, and to keep them free from the attacks of insects. Bayberry Soap, or Myrtle Soap. — Dissolve 3J ounces of white potash in 1 pint of water, and add 1 pound of melted myrtle wax or bayberry tal- low. Boil slowly and stir until the mixture saponifies. Add 3 table- spoonfuls of cold water containing a pinch of salt, and boil 5 or 6 minutes longer. Remove from the fire and when it is cool, but before it sets, perfume by adding 5 or 6 drops of any essential oil or oils, according to taste. This soap is valuable for all toilet purposes, for shaving, chaps, and all diseased conditions of the skin. It should not be used until it is thoroughly seasoned. The longer it is allowed to dry and season the better it becomes. Transparent Soap. — Any good white neutral soap may be rendered transparent by reducing it to shav- ings, adding one half its volume of alcohol, and setting the mixture in a warm place until the soap is dis- solved. When allowed to cool it has somewhat the appearance of rock candy. It may be perfumed and scented according to taste. Or shave 3^ ounces of good hard yellow soap and add 1 pint of alco- hol. Simmer with gentle heat until dissolved. Remove from the fire, add 1 ounce of almond or other essence, and stir vigorously with an egg beater to make a complete emulsion. 452 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Pour into molds to cool. This gives a very cheap, pure soap of good ap- pearance, as it is nearly transparent. THE HAirOS Nothing betrays lack of daintiness in personal care more than neglect of the hands and nails. Of course it is more difficult for some women to keep their nails clean and their hands soft, white, and free from blemishes than for others. But in the care of the hands immaculate cleanliness is imperative. They should never be washed except when it can be done thoroughly. Constantly rinsing them in cold water grinds the dirt in and ruins the texture of the skin, making it rough, coarse, and red. When ex- posed to hard usage, as in the rou- tine of housework, instead of fre- quently washing the hands in water, a few drops of oil should be rubbed into them. They should then be dusted over with talcum powder and wiped with a coarse towel. This will cleanse them and protect the flesh from growing callous. Lemon juice will remove stains. The hands should always be washed in tepid water, and a good soap is an absolute necessity. It is also im- portant that the water be soft. Avoid washing the hands frequently with cheap laundry soap, washing powders, soft soap, or other powerful detergents. They tend to roughen, redden, and chap the skin. The best soap is none too good for the toilet. There are many brands on the mar- ket which are known to be good, and it is better* not to experiment with those that are new and untried. Any hard, white, pure or neutral soap is suitable for the toilet. Hence it is not necessary to purchase special toilet soaps, which are usually expen- sive, however desirable they may seem to be. To test soap for toilet purposes, apply the tongue to it. If it contains free alkali, it will have a caustic or burning taste and should be avoided. Otherwise it is not likely to be injurious. In cold weather or when the hands are very dirty rub a little pure lard or cold cream over them, and after- wards wash them with soap and water in the usual way. This has a tendency to keep the skin from crack- ing or chapping. The use of gloves, especially when gardening, driving, or walking in svm or wind, helps to pre- serve the softness of the hands and keep them clean. Sprinkling the hands with orris root or talcimi pow- der before drawing on the gloves will coimteract excessive perspira- tion. Bedness and Burning. — These troubles are caused by defective cir- culation. Attention should be given to the general health, and as a pre- ventive measure the hands should be protected from exposure to the weather — especially in the winter — ^by the use of a muflf or by fur-lined gloves. Or two pairs of gloves may be worn, which will be found warmer than one pair lined. After the hands have been exposed to the cold they may be prevented from tingling by washing them in very warm water, and drying them carefully on a soft towel. The after effect will be a feel- ing of coolness, whereas the use of cold water causes a ^ow. Uolst Hands. — If the hands are constantly moist from too free per- spiration, bathe them frequently either in salt water, which acts as a stimulant or tonic, or in a solution of vinegar or lemon juice, which acts as an astringent. Or rub them with a mixture of powdered alum and tannic acid, both of which have astringent properties. Or a little of this mixture may be dusted inside the gloves. But care should be taken not to use acid or astringent cosmetics oftener than is necessary, as they tend to overwork the pores of the skin and to produce injurious after effects. To Bemove Stains from the Hands. — Substances recommended for removing stains from the hands are lemon juice, the juice of ripe THE TOtLEt AND BAftt 45g tomatoes, sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), chloride of lime, oxalic acid, fumes of sulphur, and various com- pounds of thfee. The following spe- cial directions may be noted: To Use Sulphuric Acid.— Dilute a few drops in 20 times its volume of water, and apply to stains with a brush. Take care this does not touch a cut on the flesh or fall upon fab- rics of woolen or cotton, as it will take out their color and eat holes in them. To ITse Oxalic Acid. — Make a weak solution of oxalic acid and water, and apply with a brush or rag. Take care this does not get into any sores and cuts, as it wUl inflame them. On healthy skin its action is as mild as lemon juice. Or dampen the stain and hold it over the fumes of an old-fashioned sulphur match, freshly lighted. Or burn a small piece of sulphur out of doors and hold the stain in the fumes. Care' must, of course, be taken not to burn the flesh or inhale the fumes of burning sulphur. The above are specially useful for fruit stains. To Remove Stubborn Stains. — Mix oxalic acid and cream of tartar in equal proportions, and keep the mix- ture in an old paper box among toilet articles. This box should be marked " Poison," and kept out of the reach of children. Wet the stain with warm water and sprinkle with this preparation, rubbing until the stain disappears. Then wash the hands with soap and rinse well. This will remove the most stubborn ink and dye stains. To Soften the Hands. — Keep on the toilet stand near the soap a dish of oatmeal, and rub it freely on the hands after washing. This will cleanse and soften the skin. Or use corn meal in the same man- ner. Or keep at hand a quantity of clean white sand. The artificial sort, made by crushing quartz or flint stone and sold for filters, is pref- erable to sea sand or ordinary sand, since it has sharper edges. Mix a handful of sand with hot soapsuds, and wash and rub the hands with this mixture for several minutes. The sand may be cleansed by pour- ing fresh water over it and draining through a filter. It can be used again and again. This method sof- tens and removes the calluses caused by housework. The hands may after- wards be rubbed with oatmeal or corn meal, as above, and treated with cold cream or some other simple lotion. Or a pair of white kid gloves may be turned inside out and brushed over with cold cream or any melted mixture of wax, oil, lard, or other unguent. These gloves may then be drawn on the hands and worn at night. Or the hands may be rubbed at night with cold cream, mutton tallow, or honey, and a large pair of gloves drawn on. In the morning the hands should be thoroughly washed with some good toilet soap, and rubbed with oatmeal or corn meal and any simple lotion. The following mix- tures are recommended to use with gloves at night to soften and whiten the hands: Put in a quart glass fruit jar J pound of grated or shaved castile soap. Pour over this J pint of alco- hol, and let stand in a warm place, shaking frequently until the soap is dissolved. Add 1 ounce of glycerin and oil of almonds, perfume with a few drops of any essential oil, and seal tightly. Or put J pound of grated castile or other hard white soap in a dou- ble boiler; pour over it 1 gill of olive oil, and dissolve with gentle heat. Add IJ ounces of mutton tallow, mix thoroughly, remove from the fire, and add 2 fluid ounces of alcohol and a few drops of any essential oil as perfume. Or shave together in a flat glass dish or on a marble slab 1 ounce of spermaceti, 1 ounce of white wax, and 1 ounce of gum camphor. Mix with olive oil to a stiff paste. 454 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or mix 1 ounce of glycerin and J ounce of ammonia with J ounce of rose water. Chapped Hands. — Substances rec- ommended for cliapped hands may be distinguished as follows: solid un- guents, such as spermaceti and other forms of wax, lard, unsalted butter, mutton suet, tallow, and the like; liquid imguents, such as glycerin, yolk of egg, honey, almond oil, lin- seed oil, and olive oil; various sub- stances which have specific soothing properties, as borax, bitter almonds, bran (decoction of), balsam of fir, camphor, sal soda, carbolic acid, quince seed, raisins, oatmeal; various flavoring and coloring extracts and perfumes. The objects sought in using these substances are as follows: The solid and liquid unguents are employed to hold the specific reme- dial agent in suspension, and to give consistency to the mass so as to make it easier to apply them; also to pre- vent their speedy evaporation. The various remedial agents are selected according to their several properties and the results desired. These vary in their effects with different indi- viduals and also according to the condition of the skin. A little expe- rience will indicate which to employ under given conditions. Coloring ex- tracts and perfume may, of course, be used according to taste. With these thoughts in mind it is an easy matter to prepare a stock of emolli- ents suited to one's ideas and expe- rience, based upon a solid unguent if a paste or salve is desired, or upon a liquid unguent if a lotion is pre- ferred, and containing such remedial agents, coloring matter, etc., as are desired. Glycerin for the Hands. — Glycerin may be used pure or scented with any essential oil. Rub on the hands at night with the same motion as when washing them, either before or after the hands have been chapped, or apply immediately after tliey have been chilled by exposure. Soft cham- ois-skin gloves worn at night will prevent this and other preparations from making grease spots on bed linen. To soften and whiten the hands, use a mixture of two thirds glycerin and one third rose water. Or, to prepare glycerin paste for toilet use, put 1 ounce of any good transparent toilet soap in 4 ounces of soft water or rose water, and add 5 ounces of glycerin. Dissolve all with gentle heat, stir in 20 ounces of ad- ditional glycerin, pour into a glass fruit jar, and when nearly cold per- fume with a few drops of any essen- tial oil. Or simmer with gentle heat in a double boiler 1 ounce of glycerin, 3 ounces of olive oil, and 3 drams of spermaceti. Apply to the hands night and morning. ""Or mix 3 ounces of glycerin, 1 yolk (of egg, and 30 grains of carbolic iacid, and beat up to an emulsion /with an egg beater. Rub into the / skin several times daily. V Or simmer 1 dram of quince seed in i pint of boiling water for 10 or 15 minutes; strain out the quince mucilage through a piece of cheese cloth, and to it add 1 ounce of glyc- erin, 1 ounce of borax, and 6 ounces of soft water or rose water. Apply to the hands two or three times a day. Bran for the Hands. — Boil a small quantity of bran in a linen bag. Put both the juice and the boiled bran in the washbowl, add warm or hot wa- ter, and wash the hands vrith or with- out soap. This is perhaps the best and simplest treatment for the red- ness, dryness, and roughness caused by housework and exposure. After washing, the hands may be rubbed with a few drops of honey or a lo- tion composed of J pound of honey, i pound of sal soda, and 1 pint of water. Mix well and heat without boiling. Linseed Oil for the Hands. — This is good for chapped hands, and also for burns and sprains. It has the advantage of being cheap and almost always available. THE TOILET AND BATH 455 • Honey for the Hands. — This may be used when the skin is dry, hard, ( and rough. Moisten the hands and rub the honey in well. After a while I wash them thoroughly in bran water or some other liquid preparation, and \ they will be perfectly clean and soft. Camphor for Chapped Hands. — Camphor cakes or balls, to prevent chapped hands, may be made as fol- lows; Melt 3 drams of spermaceti and 4 drams of white wax. Add 1 ounce of almond oil. Moisten 3 drams of camphor with spirits of wine, . and mix up all together. Run this into molds or make up into balls in the same manner as butter balls are made. Or, for an ointment, melt together gum camphor, 3 drams; beeswax, 3 drams; olive oil, 2 ounces. Apply at night, and wear chamois -skin gloves. Other Remedies for Chapped Hands. — Mix white wax, 4 drams; olive oil, 2 drams; spermaceti, 18 grains. Or unsalted butter, J pound; rose * water, 1 wineglassf ul ; yolks of eggs, 2; honey, 1 tablespoonful. Mix and stir in finely ground oatmeal to make a paste of the consistency of butter. Apply at night and wear gloves. Or use almond paste instead of oatmeal in the last. / Or mix equal parts of white piut- ton tallow, unsalted butter, beeswax, ' and stoned raisins. Simmer until the I raisins are dried up but not burned. ' Strain into molds to cool. This prep- 1 aration smarts chapped hands, but \ quickly heals them. Camphor Ice. — Oil of sweet al- monds, 1 ounce; spermaceti, 2 ounces; white wax, 1 ounce; cam- phor, i ounce. Melt these ingredi- ents in a double boiler, and pour in molds of proper size and form. Powder for the Hands. — Common starch reduced to powder by grind- ing with a knife or in a pestle is a good substitute for talcum powder for the hands. This is always at hand. When taking the hands out of suds or dishwater, or after washing them when they have been chilled by exposure, rinse them thoroughly, wipe them, and apply the starch while they are still damp, covering the whole surface. This is cheap, convenient, and easy to try. MAKICTTBINO Fingfer Kails. — The condition of the finger nails is one of the best tests of the care given to the toilet. Well-groomed finger nails are, as far as they go, a mark of refinement. Needless to say, the toilet for any social occasion is not complete until the nails have been thoroughly defined, trimmed, and, if possible, manicured. Young men are usually the worst offenders in this respect, and they would often have cause to blush if they should hear the comments caused by their appearances in so- ciety with finger naUs " decorated in mourning." Machinists and others whose work tends to cause the finger nails to be- come grimy will find.it helpful to in- sert a little lard or cold cream under the nails each morning. Housewives will find this a good plan when blacking stoves. The most useful article for use on the nails is a small orange stick, which can be obtained for a trifle at any drug store. With this the nails can be cleaned each time the hands are washed and the skin which ad- heres to the nails carefully pushed back. This may also be done with a dry towel. It will prevent the skin from cracking about the roots of the nails and forming hangnails. This method practiced daily will greatly improve the general appearance of the hands. The nails should never be bitten. By this practice the appearance of the hands may be spoiled for life. To prevent children from biting their nails, rub a little bitter aloes on the tips of the fingers. If this does not effect a cure, tie glove tips upon them until the habit is given up. 456 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Ingrowing Nails. — The finger nails do not often grow in, but when this happens a notch cut in the middle of the naU wiU have a tendency to draw it up from the sides. Uanicuxing the Nails. — Special care and training must be bestowed upon the nails, as their condition in regard to shape, color, and texture of skin makes or mars the loveliest hand. It is within the power of any wom- an possessed of average ability to be- come her own mEinicure. It takes only a few minutes each day to put the nails in perfect condition, and properly kept nails are indications of refinement. A manicure outfit will cost two or three dollars. Buy good instruments to begin with. You wUl need a flexible file, emery boards, buffer, orange sticks, cuticle knife, curved needle-pointed scissors, nail scissors, some red paste and white nail powder, and a good bleach of glycerin, rose water, and oxalic acid. Begin by shaping the nail with the file. When you* have finished one hand, the fingers should be dipped into a bowl of lukewarm water, into which has been poured a few drops of some pleasant antiseptic as lister- ine or peroxide of hydrogen. Let them remain in this some time to soften the cuticle, and then dry them with a soft towel. With the point of the orange stick clean the nail, dipping the stick in the bleach if this is necessary. Loosen the sMn around the nail with the cuticle knife. This skin should be lifted up, and not pushed down and back, as the latter movement cracks and splits the cuticle. Keep dipping the knife in the water, as it helps to lift up the cuticle, which must be well raised before it is cut. Now use the cuticle scissors, and try to trim the cuticle in one piece, oth- erwise you are likely to have ragged edges and hangnails. Be extremely careful about this special part of the treatment, for the nail may be altogether spoiled by a too zealous use of the cuticle knife and scissors. Use your ' red paste sparingly, and rub it well into the nails with the palm of your hand. It is better to dip the fingers in the wa- ter again and dry thoroughly, as you cannot polish a wet naU. Cut off a hangnail with the naU scissors, and smooth the edge of the nail with the emery boards. Dip the buffer or pol- isher in the naU powder. Place the center of the buffer on the naU, and rub slightly. In a short time you will find it very easy to manicure your own nails. To. Whiten the Nails. — First cleanse and soften the nails by soak- ing in soft water in which a little pure toilet soap hjis been dissolved, and then dip the fingers into a mix- ture composed of 2 dreims of diluted sulphuric acid, 1 dram of tincture of myrrh, and 4 ounces of soft water. Rinse with clear water and polish. Or, to remove stains and discolor- ations, moisten a chamois buffer or a piece of chamois in a mixture of lemon juice and water, or vinegar, and water. Dip it into powdered pimiice stone or putty powder, and apply carefully until the stain is re- moved. But rub as little as possible, and do not use these substances oftener Uan is necessary, as their constant use tends to make the nails thick and coarse. / To Toughen the Nails.— Mix 8 ' grains of pure rectified tar with J I ounce of cold cream, rectified lard, i or suet Apply liberally to the nails at night and draw on a pair of loose \ gloves. To Polish the Nails.— Apply, with a chamois buffer, a mixture of 1 ounce each of finely powdered emery and cinnabar, softened with olive oil, almond oil, or the essential oil of bit- ter almonds. Diseases of the Nails. — Splinters under the nails which cannot easily be drawn out by pincers may be re- moved by softening the nail with pot- ash lye diluted with an equal quan- tity of water. Apply this with a brush, then scrape the nail untQ the splinter is laid bare and can be re- THE TOILET AND BATH 457 moved. To check the action of the lye when necessary rinse with clear water and apply vinegar or lemon juice. In all cases, however, when foreign bodies get under the nails, it is best to consult a physician. The white spots which superstitious people, half in fun, sometimes say are produced by having told lies, are caused by air getting under the nails during their growth and being con- fined there. CHAPTER XVII TOILET PREPARATIONS TOILET PREPARATIONS— SIMPLE HOME PREPARATIONS— ALMOND MILK CREAM AND PASTE— COLD CREAM— AROMATIC VINEGAR- TOILET POWDERS— ROUGE— ESSENCES AND PERFUMES TOILET FBEPABATIOKS Recipes for the Toilet. — The enor- mous array of mixtures of all sorts for the toilet evinces equally the popular interest in these recipes, and the whims, caprices, and vagaries of their makers. At first glance the number and yariety of recipes rec- ommended by standard authorities is bewildering. A careful study of these preparations, however, and their tabulation in the form of charts for comparison, discloses the fact that the number of remedial agents con- tained in them is relatively small. The various forms in which these recipes appear are merely so many attempts to attract the notice of tlie public, whether by appealing to its taste or its convenience. The same ingredients, for example, may be compounded so as to form washes, lotions, emulsions, creams, or pastes, according to the degree of dilution preferred by the individual user. Standard recipes differ also by vary- ing the proportions of the same in- gredients recommended. Very often these ingredients wUl be the same with the exception of the perfumes. Needless to say the latter may be varied to suit the preference of the user. There are, of course, certain stand- ard types of toilet preparations. These vary according to the different bases, remedial agents, and the kind and amount of liquids employed for diluting them. A few words on each of these subjects wiU assist the read- er in making a satisfactory selection. To Save Honey. — Practical sugges- tions and instructions for preparing all kinds of toilet preparations are of universal interest and value. Many toilet preparations made according to recipes given in this section are widely advertised for sale. The cost of advertising these articles and plac- ing them upon the market is usually from SO to 80 per cent of their retail price. The purchaser has to pay all this in addition to the original cost of the ingredients and the labor of compounding. Moreover, it is impos- sible to tell what the ingredients are or whether they are of good quality. Very often they are injurious and even poisonous. Adulteration and substitution are very common. Any- one can save from 75 to 95 per cent on the cost of these by compounding them himself. He will know exactly what the preparations are composed of, and also that the ingredients are fresh and of good quality.' To Hake Honey. — Some persons, however, have little skill in com- pounding, or have not the time or the proper facilities for the work. While anyone can prepare these arti- cles, it is, of course, true that a per- son may become very expert by giv- 458 TOILET PREPARATIONS 459 ing special time and attention to them, and especijilly by the practice of making up prescriptions in fairly large quantities. Hence anyone who has an aptitude for work of this kind can make a good deal of money by preparing these articles in quantity, putting them up neatly in jars, bot- tles, boxes, etc., and affixing to them neat printed labels. These can be sold on shares at the local stores, or bought by friends and neighbors, or peddled from house to house by em- ploying young people on a, commis- sion basis. Mail-order business can also be worked up for the sale of these preparations. The recipes are taken from the formulas of manufac- turers of standard toilet articles. Such preparations also make a very popular bazaar at a church fair. The work of compounding them in such cases can be delegated to a com- mittee. Bases. — The standard bases for solid and semifluid preparations, as pastes, creams, and emulsions, are white wax, spermaceti, suet, lard, yolk or white of egg, and various soaps. /Animal fats, as lards, suet, and Mlie like, must be specially refined and prepared for toilet purposes. This may be done at home by melting and simmering the fat slowly with gentle heat, and straining it through linen one or more times. On the farm these animal fats are easily obtained and consequently inexpensive, but unless alcohol or other preservatives are mixed with them they tend to become rancid. Hence small quanti- ties at a time should be prepared, and care should be taken not to em- ploy such preparations when they become in the least degree sour. The same caution applies to compounds containing the white or yolk of eggs and honey. White wax, spermaceti, castile and other soaps as bases are free from these objections, and recipes contain- ing them are to be preferred when such ingredients can conveniently be obtained. In compounding recipes ■ having these solid unguents as bases they are first melted slowly with gen- \ tie heat, and while in a melted con- dition the other ingredients are \ added. They may also be "cut" or dissolved in alcohol and spirits. y Liquid Bases. — Certain toilet prepa- rations, as emulsions, lotions, washes, and the like, omit the above solid3 or employ them only in small quanti- ties, and in their place use certain oils and other liquids as bases. The \ principal liquid bases are almond oil, olive oil, glycerin, honey, and tho like. These have a double value: they tend to soothe and also to feed the i skin. They are, therefore, among the \ most deservedly popular of all ingre- N^ients. Other Bases. — Gum arable, quince seed, and white paste are also em- ployed as bases when a certain de- gree of adhesiveness is desired, as in the preparation of bandoline and pomades for the hair and beard. The quince seeds are prepared by simmering them gently in rose water until they form a stiff jell. This must then be strained through a fine sieve to remove the hulls. Gum arable may be dissolved in warm water. Bases of Powders. — Wheat starch is the standard base for homemade toilet powders, but other materials often employed are fuller's earth, French chalk, and pearl white. Al- mond meal, like almond oil, has the double property of serving as a base and also as a remedial agent. Bemedial Agents. — ^This term is employed to describe certain ingre- dients used in toilet preparations which have specific curative proper- ties. Some of the bases already men- tioned, notably almonds, fall also un- der this heading. Among others of especial value may be noted sub- stances which soothe and feed the skin, as the yolk of egg, honey, and cocoa butter; substances which are mildly astringent, as lemon juice, alum, spirits, and benzoin; and other specifics, as glycerin, camphor, and sulphur, whose action varies with dif- 460 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ferent persons. These agents are in most cases of a harmless character except when otherwise stated. Mineral Agents. — The use of min- eral drugs in toilet preparations can- not be too earnestly deprecated. In many cases they are immediately harmful, and defeat the very object for which they are intended, as in the case of bismuth, which frequently blackens the skin. All compounds and preparations containing lead in any form are positively dangerous and sometimes give rise to blood poi- son. These mineral compounds are often recommended as heroic reme- dies, to be tried when other measures have failed; as, for example, for the removal of obstinate freckles, moles, pimples, and similar disfigurements. They are very common in hair dyes and pomades, and are too often em- ployed under delusion, caused by the misleading statements of friends, beauty doctors, or others, and by publishers of otherwise reputable books. Two statements we desire to ear- nestly make and stand by: first, mineral drugs in toilet preparations are dangerous; and, secondly, they are not necessary. The simple and harmless remedies hereinafter given, if patiently and skillfully applied ac- cording to directions, will, in due course of time, accomplish the results intended, and develop the most per- fect complexion that the individual is capable of. The use of mineral drugs, on the other hand, whatever the immediate benefits derived from them may ap- pear to be, will in the end defeat its own object by producing after ef- fects ruinous to the complexion, and the last state of the deluded indi- vidual who employs them will indeed be worse than the first. Diluents or Vehicles. — Distilled water, various perfumed toilet wa- ters, as rose water, together with al- cohol, rectified spirits of wine, and other spirits, are the liquids most often recommended for diluting toilet preparations to the consistency of creams, lotions, washes, and the like. Distilled water may be prepared at home by attaching a tube to the spout of the teakettle, immersing as much of its length as possible in a basin of water shielded from the fire and kept cold, if convenient, with ice, and collecting the condensed steam at the opposite end of the tube in a fruit jar or other receptacle. The object of this process is to remove all impurities held in suspension, as lime and other minerals which are found in hard water; also vegetable and animal matter and other impurities. In winter clean snow, melted, is equivalent to distilled water. Rain water collected in a clean vessel is a good substitute. The ordinary wa- ter supply, softened if necessary by means elsewhere recommended, wiU usually answer every purpose. Elder- flower water, orange-flower water, and other perfumed toilet waters are often recommended, but rose water or plain distilled or soft water may be used as a substitute, if preferred, in all cases. Perfumes. — Substances used as per- fumes commonly occur in severed forms, i. e., the attar or essential oil, the essence, and the tincture or the " water," depending upon the degree of dilution. They can also be ob- tained in powdered form, as in sachets. The most convenient form in which to purchase perfumes is the otto or attar, i. e., the essential oil. This may be purchased in small quantity and employed according to taste, a few drops being sufBcient to perfume most toilet preparations in quantities suitable for domestic use. The scent of these perfumes is fa- miliar to most persons, but they can easily be inspected at a drug store and a selection can be made. It is not necessary, of course, to purchase or have on hand each and all the different perfumes recommended. In fact, perfumes are now used very much less than they were formerly, and a strong scent of cologne, musk, or other odor about an individual is TOILET PREPARATIONS 461 regarded as a mark of vulgarity. Many ladies who enjoy perfumes compromise by selecting any particu- lar odor they prefer, as violet, rose, lavender, or heliotrope, and employ this exclusively in the toilet. Any of the essential oils may be substi- tuted freely for the others, and the quantity may be varied to suit the taste as determined by experiment. Coloring Matters. — The standard coloring matters employed for lip salve, rouge, cold cream, and the like are as follows: for rose pink or red, alkanet root or dragon's blood; for yellow or orange, palm oil or annotto; for blue, finely powdered indigo; for green, spinach leaves. Other coloring matter, as the various lakes and other mineral substances, are inten- tionally omitted. Utensils Required. — The utensils required in compounding the follow- ing recipes are usually at hand in every household. A small pair of druggist's scales or balances is a great convenience, and will be found useful in many ways. A graduate glass, marked for the measurement of fluid ounces, is also useful, and can be obtained of any druggist or dealer in photographic materials. A glass of the size of 4 or 8 ounces may be obtained at from 25 cents or less to 50 cents. In addition to the above a small spatula or thin, broad-bladed, flexi- ble knife, a small mortar and pestle, and one or two short pieces of glass tube or rod for stirring, wiU be found convenient. Ordinary porce- lain-lined saucepans are the best re- ceptacles in which to melt and mix the necessary ingredients. A double boiler is convenient, but if this can- not be had, a large saucepan may be partly filled with water, and a small- er one containing the ingredients to be melted placed within it so that the water will reach part way up the sides. A few nails or other solid ob- jects placed in the bottom of the large saucepan will raise the small one so as to permit the water to cir- culate freely beneath it. In this way the ingredients may be melted with- out danger of burning or sticking to the pan. Care must be taken that the water in the outer saucepan does not all evaporate or boil up and flood the inner one. ^ ^ Directions for Compounding. — ^^ ' First place the solid or liquid con- stituents used as a base in a double boiler or saucepan, as above sug- gested. Simmer with a gentle heat, but without boiling. When the solids are melted and the mass is warm enough to flow freely, first put in the coloring matter, if any, and simmer until the color has been fully incor- porated. Next strain through linen while still hot. ^-y Return the mixture to the double boiler, and while hot add such spe- cific remedial agents as the oil of bitter almonds, honey, glycerin, ben- zoin, lemon juice, alum, etc. If rose water or distilled water is to be added to form an emulsion, lo- tion, or wash, take the mixture oflf the fire and add the water gradually, stirring briskly with a spoon or egg beater to insure forming a perfect emulsion. The last ingredient to be added is always the perfume, and this should be done after the mixture has cooled somewhat, but before it sets. Perfumes are volatile, and if added to a heated mixture are likely to be wasted by evaporation. '^^ Compounding of Pastes and Pow- ders. — The above instructions apply especially to liquid compounds. The solid constituents of pastes may be rubbed together in a mortar, and kneaded with the hands or with a spatula on a marble or metal slab, a clean piece of zinc, or a kneading board. In some cases an egg beater can be employed if the consistency of the mixture will allow it. Almonds for pastes may be reduced in a mor- tar to the proper consistency by moistening them vrith rose water and grinding them with a pestle, or by heating them with water in a sauce- pan until the mass assumes a granu- lar consistency, somewhat similar to cooked oatmeal. Both methods are 462 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES employed, but the former is the more common. The materials for toilet powders may be compounded by sim- ple mixture in a mortar or other suit- able receptacle. General Suggestions. — We would suggest to the novice that it will be well to first prepare a small quantity of some good toilet powder (prefera- bly based on wheat starch), a good cold cream, and, if desired, one of the liquid emulsions or lotions as a ' wash for the face and hands. Other preparations, as pastes, rouge, aromatic vinegar, and the like, may be made up as occasion de- mands. Persons experienced in these matters will, of course, need no sug- gestions. Tables. — A number of tables have been prepared which contain practi- cally all the standard recipes for the toilet in use by beauty doctors and others in all parts of the world. An exception to this statement has al- ready been noted; all recipes contain- ing preparations of lead and other injurious mineral drugs have been absolutely excluded. A list of the different ingredients is given at the left of the table, and the name of each preparation is quoted at the top. Under each name and opposite the names of the different ingredients will be found the amount of each to be employed. General directions for compounding the following recipes have already been given. Special di- rections follow each table when nec- essary. SIMPLE HOKE FBEFABATIONS The following simple homemade preparations are suggested in addi- tion to the more elaborate receipts given later: To Kemove Freckles. — Prepara- tions recommended for the removal of freckles are usually of an acid character containing alum, lemon juice, horse-radish, buttermilk, and the like; also mineral drugs, as salts of lead, merciiry, bismuth, and oth- ers. It cannot be too clearly stated that all such preparations are dis- tinctly injurious to the complexion, and their frequent use is not to be recommended. Most young persons of light complexion are annoyed by freckles, but these ordinarily pass away in later life, and the wisest pos- sible course is to pay little attention to them and allow nature to effect a cure. The application of prepara- tions advertised to remove freckles, the ingredients of which are un- known, should be avoided lest they contain bismuth, which is liable to blacken the skin, or lead or mercury, which are active mineral poisons. The following recipes, the active principles of which are principally animal or vegetable acids, are less in- jurious; but it must be borne in mind that all cosmetics of an as- tringent nature do their work by contracting the pores, which thus be- come weakened and in time are un- able to discharge their natural func- tions. The result may be, in later life, wrinkles and sallowness, and the last state of the complexion may be distinctly worse than the first. Grate a fresh horse-radish root very iine, cover with fresh buttermilk, and let stand over night. Strain through cheese cloth, and wash the face night and morning with the resulting liquor. Or squeeze the juice of a lemon into half a tumbler of water, and use two or three times daUy as a face wash. Or dissolve in lemon juice as much sugar as it will hold, and apply with a soft brush frequently until the freckles disappear. Or apply a lotion containing glyc- erin, but this is hardly a specific. Or mix 2 ounces of lemon juice with 1 dram of confectioner's sugar or powdered rock candy and J dram of powdered borax. Let stand for 4 or 5 days, shaking occasionally, and apply with a camel's-hair brush two or three times a day. Or to 1 pint of distilled soft water add 1 dram of sal ammoniac and i ounce Of cologne. Rub on the TOILET PREPARATIONS 463 face and hands two or three times daily. Or dissolve in 4 drams of rose wa- ter 1 dram of muriate of ammonia, and apply two or three times a day with a camel's-hair brush. Or put in a double boiler 1 ounce of grated Venice soap and 1 ounce of pure soft water (or distilled wa- ter) ; melt with gentle heat and con- tinue the heating until the water is evaporated and only the melted soap remains. Remove from the fire, and stir in i ounce of lemon juice, J ounce of oil of bitter almonds, J ounce of deliquidated oil of tartar, and 3 drops of oil rhodium. This is said to be a recipe of the celebrated Mme. de Maintenon, the mistress of Louis XIV of France. Or this mixture can be prepared by grating the soap, pouring over it the lemon juice and other ingredi- ents, exposing it to direct sunlight, and shaking occasionally until it is of the right consistency. Apply to the face at night. Or mix J pint of tincture of tolu, J pint of tincture of benzoin, and J ounce of oil of rosemary. Put a tea- spoonful of this mixture in one fourth tumblerful of pure soft water, and apply to the face with a soft sponge two or three times a day. Or put in a glass fruit jar or bot- tle 6 ounces of fresh oxgall. Add 3 ounces of rock candy, 2 ounces of rock salt, IJ scruples of camphor, 1 dram of borax, and li scruples of burned alum. ^But remember that this is an heroic remedy.) Apply with a brush or sponge at night, and wash the face thoroughly next morning. Or mix 2 ounces each of aqua am- monia, sweet oil, and limewater. But none of these preparations can be regarded as desirable lotions for regular or frequent use. Cucumber Milk. — Slice three or four large cucumbers with the skin on, add i pint of water, boil, stir to a soft pulp, cool, and strain. Mix IJ ounces of this cucumber juice, IJ ounces of 95 per cent alcohol, and J ounce of grated cagtile so^p- Let stand in a warm place over night; next day add ^ ounces more of the cucimiber juice, 1 ounce of oil of sweet almonds, 30 drops of tincture of benzoin, and 5 grains of boracic acid. Shake well before using, and apply to the face two or three times a day with a soft cloth or sponge. Uilk for the Skin. — New milk, skimmed milk, and buttermilk each possess properties peculiar to it- self, and they all make useful and simple washes having a general emol- lient action on the skin. If used daily they tend to make the skin soft, smooth, and white, and to preserve it from the effects of exposure to weather. Buttermilk is useful for freckles and acne, and relieves itch- ing and local irritations of the skin. Pure, fresh cream is a simple and effective preventive of chapped hands and lips, and is excellent to cure these evils. Milk as a cosmetic may be im- proved by infusing in it freshly grated horse-radish, or infusing in new milk or buttermilk a quantity of flowers of sulphur. These are useful remedies for freckles and other dis- colorations and slight eruptions of the skin. Or mix flowers of sulphur with a little new milk and let stand an hour or two to settle. Pour off the milk from the sediment, and rub well into the skin before washing. This mix- ture is for immediate use only, and must be prepared daily. It may be prepared at night with evening milk and used the next morning, but not afterwards. Two or three table- spoonfuls are all that need be pre- pared at a time. Or boil 1 cupful of fine Scotch oat- meal — not breakfast food — ^in 1 pint of boiling water until it forms a. clear liquid. Use a double boiler, or place the saucepan containing the oatmeal in an open kettle or pan of boiling water to prevent sticking or burning. Strain the clear liquid through a cloth, boil again, and strain a second time. Add rose wa- ter, elder-flower water, or orange- 464 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES flower water until the liquor has the consistency of milk. Add a few drops of your favorite perfume, and bottle for use. Lemon Juice. — Dilute fresh lemon juice with five or six times its volume of pure soft water. This, however, should not be used too frequently on account of its acid quality and tend- ency to impair the work of the pores of the skin. It may, however, be used on occasion to relieve itching or local irritation. Or mix equal parts of lemon juice, toilet water, and alcohol. Let stand over night, pour off the clear liquid, and strain through silk or linen. Kalydor. — Dissolve 2 drams of tincture of benzoin in 1 pint of rose water, and use as a face wash for the complexion. Magnesia Cream. — Mix fine pow- dered magnesia with rose water to a thin cream, dip the face in warm wa- ter to open the pores, apply a glyc- erin lotion, and afterwards apply the magnesia cream. Let dry and re- move with a soft towel. Or dissolve fuller's earth in water, stir well, then let it settle, and use once or twice daily. Honey. — Honey is a favorite in- gredient in various lotions under the name of "honey water," "balsam of honey," and the like. The term " honey water " is also applied to certain combinations of perfumes that do not, in fact, contain honey. To prepare honey water from honey, put in a 2-quart fruit jar 4 ounces of pure white honey with J oimce of fresh grated lemon peel, i ounce each of calamayta, benzoin, and storax, I ounce of cloves, and J ounce of nutmeg. Add 2 ounces each of rose water and elder-flower water and 13 fluid ounces of 95 per cent alcohol. Let stand 3 or 4 days, shaking fre- quently, run through a filter, and bot- tle for use. Or, for balsam of honey, mix with gentle heat 8 ounces of pure white honey and 2 ounces of best quality glycerin. Let stand until cool, stir in ^ fluid ounces of 9S per cent alcohol. and add 10 drops of the essence of ambergris. Glycerin. — ^When pure, glycerin is a colorless viscid liquid, having a sweet taste and without odor. All the ordinary fats contain glycerin, which is produced by treating animal fats with alkalies, such as caustic soda or potash, as is done in the manufacture of soap. Glycerin is a by-product of soap factories. It may also be produced by treating fats with superheated steam, as is done in the manufacture of candles. Hence glycerin is also a by-product of can- dle factories. Glycerin mixes freely with water, and pure glycerin absorbs about one half its own weight from the atmos- phere. It is an excellent solvent, and is an important ingredient of po- mades, toilet soaps, and cosmetics. Glycerin is recommended as a lotion for irritation of the skin and for itching; also as a preventive against sunburn, chaps, and redness from exposure to the weather. A prepa- ration of 1 ounce of glycerin to 19 ounces of pure soft water is about right for regular use as a face wash, and is an excellent vehicle in which to dissolve various remedies. Or 1 ounce of glycerin to 9 ounces of water may be used for chapped hands and lips, or whenever a strong solution is desired. Borax. — Dissolve 5 drams of borax in 1 pint of pure soft or distilled wa- ter, and use as a wash for sore gums or nipples, boils, or any other irrita- tion of the skin or mucous mem- brane. Or combine borax with glycerin in the proportion of 6 drams of borax and IJ ounces of pure glycerin; add 16 ounces of rose water. This may be used regularly as a face wash. Or mix j ounce of powdered borax with 1 ounce of pure glycerin and 16 ounces of camphor oU. Apply to the face with a soft cloth or sponge two or three times a day; let dry, and rinse with clear water. Or to 1 ounce of glycerin add 3 ounces of fresh 16non juice, 1 pint TOILET PREPARATIONS 465 of pure distilled water, and 1 pint of rose water. Apply to the face sev- eral times a day and let dry before rinsing. Lotions for Tan or Sunburn. — These are based principally on oil of almonds, with the addition of castile soap and rock candy, and contain various remedial agents, including astringents, as alum and lemon juice, also benzoin, tincture of tolu, tartar oil, ox gall, and the like. They are diluted usually with alcohol or any perfumed toilet water, for which plain distilled or soft water may be substituted. And they may be per- fumed with any essential oil or es- sence preferred. Apply any of these lotions to the face with a small sponge or a soft linen rag. Let it dry on without rubbing, and after- wards wash the face with soft warm water. The foUovring is a simple remedy for tan or sunburn: apply peroxide of hydrogen, pouring a teaspoonful or more in the palm of the hand, and applying it equally over the hands, arms, and face. Let it dry without rubbing. After it is thoroughly dry, apply any good lotion. This will rapidly bleach the skin without in- juring the most delicate complexion. bly the nut or kernel of the almond, of which there are two sorts: the sweet and the bitter. The almond is the fruit of a tree very similar to the peach tree. It is cultivated exten- sively in southern Europe, and is now grown largely in California. Al- monds are much cheaper now than they were formerly, and are likely to become cheaper still. The almond contains two active principles: an odorless fixed oil of a light color, which is obtained by pressure; and the oil of bitter almonds, which is a volatile oil obtained by crushing bit- ter almonds in cold water and by. dis- tillation. This latter oil is colorless, limpid, and has the distinctive odor of bitter almonds, similar to that of prussic acid. It sometimes contains prussic acid, in which case, if taken internally even in minute quantities, it is a deadly poison. The ordinary almonds of commerce are sweet almonds of the thin- shelled varieties. They contain about SO per cent or more of almond oil, which may be extracted by boiling in water or by softening the kernels with water or other liquid, rubbing them in a mortar, and mixing the resulting mass with various other in- gredients. Or the oils of conunerce LOTIONS FOR TAN AND SUNBURN Castile Soap 1 lb. 2 dr. Joz. Idr. Idr. 1 pt; ipt. ipt. oz. ioi. ipt. 1 oz; 1 oz. 1 oz. i oz. i oz. i oz. 3 dr. idr. Idr. 2oz. 4 lb. ioz. 1 qt. 1 pt. ipt. gill oz. Ioz. ioz. i oz. oz. 3 dr. J dr. Idr. 2oz. 2qt. 20 m. Soz. 2oz. li 80r. li scr. 4oz, Ox Gall Borax 1 dr. Almonds, Bitter " OUof.. Sweet " .. Soz. " Salt Benzoin 2dr Tine. Tolu Tartar Oil Alcohol (95%) Rose Water 1 qt Any Eaaential Oil AliMOND MILK CHEAM AND PASTE Almond Preparations. — The prime favorite among all ingredients of the varjops toilet preparations is proba- may be utilized. Preparations of al- monds for toilet purposes are va- riously known as "milk of almonds," " almond cream," " almond paste," and the like. They are likewise 466 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES h,%T known as English, French, vt other "milk of roses," and by similar fan- ciful titles, arising from the various added ingredients and the wishes of the different manufacturers. Among the ingredients most often added to almonds in these prepara- tions are solid unguents, as white wax, spermaceti, white paste, and the like; also liquid unguents, as glyc- erin, honey, the yolk of egg, and similar substances. Perfumed and distilled water, alcohol, and other spirits are often used as vehicles. And various specifics for the com- plexion, as benzoin, salts of tartar, alum, lemon juice, and other cosmet- ics, may be added. All recipes con- taining mineral substances, as salts of lead, mercury, bismuth, and the like, are here omitted. The oil of almonds is a gentle emollient. It not only softens but also feeds the skin. Hence it is a specific for the complexion, and is especially useful for chaps, sunburn, redness, and other local irritations. The following are standard recipes for milk, cream, or paste of almonds, in the order mentioned. Among these are proprietary articles which are sold under various fanciful titles at exorbitant prices, but which can be readily prepared at home by anyone who cares to take the necessary pains, with the advantage of knowing that the materials are fresh and pure and that the mixture contains nothing injurious. JS.ilk of Almouds. — The principal object to be attained in preparing milk of almonds or milk of roses is to form a perfect emulsion which will not separate, or which, if it separates after standing, may be emulsified by shaking. Such substances as soap, gum, wax, and the like, are added for this purpose, and all such prepa- rations will be improved by beating thoroughly with an egg beater or otherwise after all the ingredients have been incorporated. The milk of roses varies from the milk of almonds merely in being per- fumed with rose water or the essence or attar of roses. Other perfumes are frequently added, but in such limited quantities that the scent of roses predominates. Rub up in a mortar 1 ounce of sweet blanched almonds by adding, a little at a time, i pint of distilled water or pure soft water, mixing and rubbing constantly until a smooth, homogeneous milky emulsion is formed. Finally strain the resulting mixture through a piece of net or gauze to remove the coarser particles. This is the common " milk of al- monds " of perfumers, to which glyc- erin, various cosmetics, perfumes, and coloring matter may be added as de- sired. Or mix in a mortar 5 drams of blanched almonds, 2 drams of white lump sugar or rock candy, and 1 dram of powdered gum arable, and rub up the whole together in the same manner, adding distilled water, a little at a time, until 8 fluid ounces have been incorporated. This is an Irish formula, and is especially use- ful when it is desired to add oils, gums, or balsams. Or ifailk of bitter almonds or emul- sion of bitter almonds may be pre- pared in the same manner by substi- tuting blanched bitter almonds for the sweet variety. The mUk of bitter almonds is especially recommended to relieve itching and irritation (es- pecially that caused by shaving), and as a remedy for freckles, but it de- velops prusslc acid, a very active poison, and hence must not be swal- lowed or applied except in very mi- nute quantities to a raw surface. Or put in a mortar 6 ounces of blanched sweet almonds, and add slowly 1 pint of distilled water, rub- bing up the almonds with the water until a complete emulsion is formed. Dissolve in a double boiler i ounce of spermaceti, J ounce of white wax, and J ounce of castile soap. Pour into this mixture in a fine stream the milk of almonds, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire, and stir in a mixture of 6 ounces of alcohol, 5 drops of oil pf bitter almonds, and TOILET PREPARATIONS 467 1 dram of oil of bergatnot. Strain through a piece of net or gauze and bottle for use. Or mix in a mortar 1 ounce of sweet almonds and 3 ounces of bitter almonds, adding slowly 1 quart of pure soft or distilled water. Stir in IJ pounds of sugar, and perfume with orange-flower water or other- wise, as desired. Strain and bottle for use. Or rub up in a mortar IJ ounces of sweet blanched almonds, adding slowly i pint of rose water. Stir in 1 dram of finely powdered castile soap and 1 dram of oil of almonds, beating up with an egg beater or oth- erwise to form a complete emulsion; stir in a mixture of 2J ounces of 95 per cent alcohol and J fluid dram of essence of roses. Add enough rose water to make 1 pint of the whole. Add, if desired, a few drops of the essential oil of bergamot or of lav- ender, or the attar of roses dissolved in the alcohol. Or rub up gradually in a mortar 2 ounces of sweet blanched almonds and 12 ounces of rose water. Mix separately with gentle heat 3 drams each of white castile soap, white wax, and oil of almonds, to which add 1 dram of oil of bergamot, IS drops of oil of lavender, and 8 drops of attar of roses. Add this mixture to tlie "milk of almonds," rub up thorough- ly in a mortar, beat with an egg beater or otherwise to form a perfect emulsion, and strain through silk or linen. Enough has been said to indicate the method of compounding these recipes. The following may be pre- pared in the same manner: Blanched bitter almonds, 2 ounces; distilled water, 2 ounces; salt of tar- ALMOND CREAM. MILK OF ROSES, ETC.. .M M T3 .M IB "S 1 1 3 "S sg la p n If ■6 a o 53 O 1 .art •a "< lrt a° 1 M f r n 1 n |rt I Almonds, Sweet. . . 16 oj. lioz. loz. 71b. ' 51b. 31b. 16 OZ. 61b. Bitter.. . 3oz. 5 oz. 16 oz. 1 oz. Soz. Oil loz. Idr. 5d. 16 oz. 4oz. Idr. loz. MUk. . . . Paste... 3 dr. 3 dr. White Wax 7 dr. i oz. i oz. 1 oz. Spermaceti 3 dr. J oz. \ oz. 1 oz. Castile Soap loz. Idr. i oz. 12 oz. il.b. 1 oz. White Sug. lilb. Alcohol Ipt. 2ioz. 6oz. Igal. 3 gts. 2qts. 1 gal. 1 oz. RoseWater 7 pts. 5pt. Iqt. Ipt. 5 gal. q. s. 10 qts. Iqt. 8oz. 3 gal. Ipt. ipt. 4oz. Rosemary Water... ipt. ElderFl. Water... 1 oz. 6oz. Lavender Water... Tin. Storax 2 dr. Tine. Ben- zoin idr. Idr. i fl. oz. Pearlaah. . . 8 oz. 2oz. Oil of Rose 6 m. 60 m. 20 m. 20 m. Oil of Lav- ender. . . idr. loz. 4 dr. ioz. 1 oz. Oil of Tar- tar Idr. 20 m. 20 m. Oil of Ber- gamot. . . Balaam of Peru 20 m. 468 HOUSiEHOLD DISCOVERIES tar, J dram; tincture benzoin, J dram. Riib up together in a mortar, beat to an emulsion, and strain. Or blanched sweet almonds, 1 ounce; grated castile soap, 1 ounce; oil of almonds, 1 ounce; white wax, 6 drams; spermaceti, 3 drams; oil of bergamot, J dram; oil of lavender, J dram; rose water, 3 quarts; alcohol, 1 pint. Complexion Paste. — The principal ingredients in standard pastes for the complexion consist of solid and liquid unguents, as spermaceti, wax, paste, suet, various soaps, and the like; soothing substances, as almond oil and honey; mild astringents, as lem- on juice and alum; rose water and alcohol for mixing purposes, and va- rious perfumes. As in other toilet preparations, the solid unguents give substance to the compound and hold the various reme- dial agents in suspension. Yolk of egg, almonds, hoijey, and the like, feed the skin, and other ingredients are used for convenience in com- potmding, perfuming, etc. Any of these pastes may be colored by adding coloring matter in the process of preparation while the mix- ture is in a liquid state. Rich rose, pink, or red may be obtained by dis- solving J dram of alkanet root or dragon's blood in about 8 ounces of melted fat. For orange or yellow', use palm oil or annotto. For blue, use finely powdered indigo. For green, steep spinach leaves in oil, and strain before using. If coloring matter is not used, these pastes will be of a pure white or a slightly tinted yellow from the yolk of egg. In compoimding the above mix- tures, a small marble mortar and pestle will be found convenient. White of egg may be boiled in rose water or plain soft or distilled wa- ter. Where pulverized almonds are required, it is better to obtain the fresh nuts and pulverize them shortly before using. The nuts may be first crushed by a roUing-pin, and after- wards pulverized in a mortar. A few drops of rose water or almond oil added in the mortar will assist by softening them. An egg beater will be found convenient in thoroughly blending all the ingredients in these mixtures. Perfumes must be added while the material is in a liquid state. When oil is used, perfume may be first mingled with the oilj Sperma- ceti, white and other soaps, may be first reduced to liquid form by melt- ing. Where alkanet root or other solid substances are used, the paste may be improved by straining while in a liquid condition through a linen cloth. The milk of pistachio nuts may be obtained by distilling fresh peeled nuts in an equal quantity of rose water. Simmer over a slow fire, and when melted form an emulsion with the egg beater. With a little attention to the above instructions anyone may compound a paste for himself, and have the sat- isfaction of knowing that the mate- rials are fresh and that no harmful ingredients have been used. Almond Paste may be prepared in two ways: eitlier in the cold or by cooking the almonds. To prepare al- mond paste in the cold, pound the dry kernels of sweet almonds to a fine powder in an earthenware or marble mortar. Tliis will require time and patience. When the al- monds are sufficiently fine, add just enough elder-flower, rose, or orange- flower water to make a paste of the desired consistency and perfume with some essential oil — as the attar of roses, bergamot, neroli, or any other desired. Preserve in covered glass jars. Or, to prepare paste of bitter al- monds, take equal parts of bitter and sweet almonds and proceed as before. It is not necessary to add perfumes, as the scent of the bitter almonds is sufficient. Or add to either of the above 2 ounces of powdered spermaceti or 1 ounce of grated castile soap for each poimd of almonds. Or the white of 1 egg to each poimd of almonds. TOILET PREPARATIONS 46£ ALMOND PASTE FOR THE COMPLEXION 1 1 4 i 02. ioz. 6 1 i 1 O 1 a p . W n .a i 1 1 a 1 .1 T3 d ■si White Wax 1 oz. 4 oz. 1 oz. 7 1b. 1 oz. ^ oz. loz. 1 8oz. q. s. 1 OZ. 1 4 oz. 4 oz. q. s. 8oz. 8oz. 3 16 oz. 4oz. 2oz. idr. 2oz. 14 oz. Idr. idr. 2 dr. Joz. 2oz. 2oz. i oz. 12 m. 12 m. 4 1b. lib. q. s. 4oz. 4oz. 4oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 6oz. 2oz. 2oz. 8oz. q. 8. 3oz. 2oz. 6oz. S 2oz. lidr. 8oz. Spermaceti Suet Castile Soap White Paste Simple Sirup Gum Arabic Yolkof Eee White of f,ee Almonds, Sweet Bitter Oil of Attar of Milk of Pistachio Alcohol 1 3oz. 4oz. 3oz. q. s, Lemon Juicd Alum Rose Water Oil of Bergamot " Cloves •' Mace Orris Powder Or, to prepare almond paste by cooking, chop or grind 24 ounces of blanched bitter ahnonds, which may be done by passing them through a meat cutter, cover with 8 ounces of elder-flower or orange-flower water, and cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly until the almond kernels burst and assume the consistency of paste. If the fire is too brisk or the mass is not constantly stirred, the almonds will burn and the quality of the paste will be impaired. It must be borne in mind that much of the oil of bitter almonds is volatilized by heat, and care must be taken not to breathe the fumes, which are poison- ous. Before removing from the fire, stir in 4 ounces more of orange- flower or elder-flower water, and rub up the paste in a mortar to the proper consistency, adding 16 ounces of alcohol and 3 ounces of attar of roses or any other essential oil de- sired. Rub through a hair or other fine sieve and bottle for use. Or, for honey-almond paste, heat in a double boiler 4 ounces of pure white honey, strain through cheese cloth, and add 4 ounces of bitter white paste, 8 ounces of expressed oil of bitter almonds, and 2J yolks of eggs. Add the egg and the oil grad- ually, and beat vigorously with an egg beater or otherwise, as in prepar- ing mayonnaise. Or rub up together in a mortar 3 ounces of sweet and bitter almonds with IJ ounces of oil of almonds, and add J ounce of ground castile soap. Stir in 12 drops of attar of roses and oil of bergamot. Or rub up to a smooth paste in a mortar 4 ounces of bleached sweet almonds; add the white of 1 egg and equal quantities of rose twater and alcohol to make a paste of the right consistency. Or rub to a smooth paste 4 pounds of bitter almonds with elder-flower or lavender water, and beat up with this 1 pound of pure strained honey, 4 ounces of fine orris powder, 8 ounces of almond powder, and 2 ounces of oil of jasmine. Or rub up in a mortar 4 ounces of 470 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES powdered almonds, and beat into these 3 ounces of oil of almonds and 3 ounces of lemon juice, and dilute with equal parts of alcohol and rose water to make a paste of the right consistency. Or cover the whites of 4 eggs with rose water and bring to a boil, stir- / ring in J ounce of alum and J ounce ; of oil of almonds. Evaporate the j water with gentle heat, and stir con- i stantly until the paste is of the right j consistency. 1 COLD CBEAK Cold Creams. — The basis of most cold creams is either white wax or spermaceti or both, with almond oil or rectified animal fats, as lard, suet, and the like, to which may be added various specifics for the complexion, and distilled waters, essences, or es- sential oils to perfume as desired. Cold cream is among the most use- ful of all toilet preparations, both as a preventive and as a remedy for sunburn and reddening of the skin by exposure, chapped hands and lips, frostbite, and other local irritations. It is also useful for whitening the hands and to prevent wrinkles. For this purpose it should be applied at night and thoroughly washed off in the morning. The hands may be pro- tected at night by a loose pair of kid or chamois gloves. / To prepare cold cream, melt in /a double boiler 3 drams of white wax, 1 ounce of spermaceti, and 3J ounces of oil of sweet almonds. Remove from the fire and add in a thin stream 2 fluid ounces of rose water, and stir constantly until cold. Those who can use glycerin with safety may add i ounce to 1 ounce before the vmixture sets. Or, for a medicated cold cream, melt with gentle heat in a double boiler J ounce of white wax, J ounce of spermaceti, and 4 ounces of al- mond oil. Mix separately J fluid ounce each of the tinctures of bal- sam of Peru, tolu, and benzola, to which add in a thin stream 2 fluid ounces of elder-flower water. Beat in the mean time with an egg beater or otherwise to form a complete emulsion. Pour this emulsion in a thin stream into the melted wax and oil, meantime beating with an egg beater until all the ingredients are fully incorporated. When cold, this compound will set as a permanent COLD CREAM o 1 6 1 "3 a a g 1 6 t 1 6 g a '3 03 1 6 1 1 1 1 1 f O g) 1 f o « B 6 1 o White Wax Spermaceti Lard 4oz. 16 oz. 12 oz. i oz. i oz. 4 oz. 2oz. 10 m. i oz. 2oz. 2oz. 10 dr. 10 dr. 8oz. 15 gr. 2oz. 4 oz. 10 m. ^oz. ioz. 2oz. Sdr. 5 dr. 10 oz. 3ioz. 15 m. 20 oz. ^ oz. 1 oz. 5 oz. 1 oz. 1 OZ. 8oz. 5 oz. ioz. i oz. 1 lb. ilb. 2 dr. 12 m. 4 dr. 6 dr. 8oz. 20 gr. 8oz. 2 lb. 1 lb. 4oz. 30 m. 3oz. 16 oz. 10 m. Ioz. Suet •- . 2oz. 4 OS. Quince Seed Mucilage Cocoa Butter.. . Almond Oil " 'Soap.... Glycerin Stearic Acid Sub. Carbonate Potash Alcohol Rose Water Any Essential Oil 3 oz. 15 m. TOILET PREPARATIONS 471 cold cream which is highly recom- mended as a cosmetic. Or melt together in a double boiler with gentle heat 2 ounces of sperma- ceti and 1 ounce of oil of almonds. Stir in 3 ounces of pure glycerin, and i ounce of balsam of Peru. Remove from the fire and beat with an egg beater until cool enough to stir. ABOUATIC TINEGAa Aromatic Vinegar, or Toilet Vine- gar, is a toilet preparation, the active principle of which is acetic acid — in the form of glacial acetic acid, white wine or other vinegar, or the like. It may be perfumed according to taste and may serve as a. vehicle for va- rious cosmetics. To compound toilet vinegar, first dissolve the essential oils or other perfumes in the spir- its, next add the vinegar or acetic acid, and lastly the distilled or toilet water. Or, if no spirits are used, mix the ingredients in a glass fruit jar or other tightly stoppered vessel, and let stand for several days, shaking frequently. The following recipes are recom- mended : Dissolve in J pint of pale rum 1 dram each of the essences of berga- mot, rosemary, and marjoram. Add J pint of pure white-wine vinegar and 1 pint of elder-flower or rose water. Filter and cork tightly for use. Or dissolve in J pint of glacial acetic aCid 1 ounce of camphor. Add 5 grains of pure oil of lavender and 13 grains of oil of cinnamon. Or put in a close vessel 4 ounces of dried red-rose leaves, and pour over them 1 quart of white-wine vinegar; add i pint of strong essence of rose. Seal and let stand 2 or 3 weeks, shaking frequently; filter and pre- serve in a tightly stoppered glass vessel. Or to 1 pint of cologne add i ounce of glacial acetic acid. Or to 1 pint of white-vrine vinegar add i pint of essence of rose, J pint of extract of cassia, and J pint of ex- tract of orris. Or dissolve in 1 quart of rectified alcohol 1 dram of attar neroli, 4 dram of attar cloves, 1 ounce of bal- sam of Peru, and 3 ounces of gum benzoin. Add 1 ounce of glacial acetic acid. TOILET POWDERS The bases of most toilet powders are compounds of magnesia, includ- ing talc or talcum — which chemically is magnesium silicate, and which is mined in large quantities in various parts of the world — and French chalk, which is not chalk but ground soapstone; fuller's earth, a greenish clky found in many parts of England and on the continent of Europe; and starch, especially rice and wheat starch, which is sometimes adulter- ated with cornstarch, potato starch, etc. These preparations usually con- tain pulverized perfumed woods, as orris root, sandalwood, and other perfumes. In addition, it is quite customary to use in face powder me- tallic bismuth, preparations of mer- cury, and otlier mineral drugs — all of which are distinctly harmful, and the use of which is therefore never ad- visable. No recipes of this sort are included in the present volume. The following are standard prepa- rations which contain no injurious ingredients : For plain face powder without perfume, pure white starch can hard- ly be improved upon. Or mix together equal quantities of rice flour, fuUer's earth, and white starch, and perfume with any essen- tial oil — rose, violet, or any other preferred. Or, for violet powder, mix 3 ounces of white starch with 1 ounce of pow- dered orris root, rub up together in water, and perfume with the essen- tial oils of lemon, bergamot, and cloves, using about double the amount of lemon as of the two others. Or, for a rose face powder, mix 8 472 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES ounces of pulverized rose leaves with 4 ounces of pulverized sandalwood, and add 1 dram of the attar of roses. Or to 3i pounds of powdered rose or white starch, add J dram of rose pink and 1 dram each of rose oil and santal oil. BOTTOE Rouge Paste and Powder. — The base of rouge for the lips and cheeks is usually French chalk, almond oil, or other animal fat, or oil, or one of the gums, as gum tragacanth, colored with cochineal, carmine, vermilion, alkanet, or other red coloring matter, and perfumed to taste. To this may be added a mild astringent, as alum, acetic acid, and the like. For carmine rouge, raise to a boil in an aluminum or copper vessel 1 quart of distilled water, to which add 1 ounce of the best pulverized cochi- neal. After 5 or 6 minutes stir in carefully 30 grains of powdered Ro- man alum. Continue boiling 3 to 5 minutes and set aside to cool. When lukewarm, but before the mixture set- tles, pour off the clear liquor from the sediment through a piece of white silk or chiffon into a glass fruit jar. Let stand 3 or 4 days and again pour off through white silk into an- other vessel. Allow the resulting liquor to settle; pour off the clear liquor from the top, and dry the sediment carefully in a cool, shady place. The result is a very finely divided powder, making a rouge of the best quality. Or finely powdered carmine can be used by taking a piece of fine un- scented pomatum about the size of a pea, and placing on it a bit of car- mine the size of a pin head. Mix the two together and apply with a bit of cotton. Or mix 4 ounces of powdered French chalk with 3 drams of oil of almonds and 1 dram of powdered carmine. Or powdered French chalk, 4 ounces; rectified lard, 4 ounces; pow- dered carmine, 1 ounce. Perfume with essential oils as desired. Or the rouge ordinarily used for theatrical purposes may be prepared by mixing fine French chalk with any quantity of powdered cartnine neces- sary to give the required color. Or the so-called Turkish rouge may be prepared by putting 1 ounce of alkanet in a glass fruit jar and pouring over it 1 ounce of alcohol. Let stand for a week or 10 days, shaking frequently; strain and bottle for use. Or vinegar rouge may be prepared by mixing together IJ drams each of powdered cochineal and carmine lake and 3 drams of alcohol. Pour over these i pint of alcohol and let stand 2 or 3 weeks; afterwards strain and bottle for use. Perfimie with essen- tial oils according to taste. Or, for another vinegar rouge, dis- solve 35 grains of balsam of Peru in 12 ounces of alcohol; dissolve sepa- rately 15 grains of alum in 6 ounces of rose water; mix the two solutions and add 2 drams of acetic acid; let stand 3 or 4 hours, shaking occasion- ally; and finally add 1 dram of the finest quality of powdered carmine dissolved in J dram of aqua ammonia. Shake well, allow to settle for 10 or 15 minutes, and pour off the clear liquor. Or dissolve J ounce of gum traga- canth in hot water and color with vermilion; add a few drops of al- mond oil, and evaporate the excess of moisture with gentle heat. Liquid Kouge. — Rouge in liquid form is variously known as " bloom of youth," "bloom of roses," "al- mond bloom," " Turkish bloom," etc. These various preparations are based upon distilled water and alcohol, or other spirit, as vehicles, and are col- ored with Brazil wood, red sanders, cochineal, and various other red col- oring matter. In some instances they contain an adhesive ingredient, as isinglass, and various specifics, as benzoin, alum, borax, and the like. Put in a glass fruit jar 2 drams of dragon's blood, 3 ounces of red san- TOILET PREPARATIONS 473 ders, and IJ ounces of gum benzoin; pour over these 3 ounces of 90 per cent alcohol and 4 ounces of pure soft water. Seal the jar and let stand a week or 10 days, shaking fre- quently; filter and bottle for use. Or put in a glass fruit jar 4 ounces of finely powdered cochineal; add 4 fluid ounces of distilled water and the same amount of aqua am- monia; cover with a. wet cloth and let simmer 3 or 4 hours in a double boiler. This preparation is ready for use as soon as it is cool. Or, for a larger quantity, put in a 2-gallon glass fruit jar 1 pound of gum benzoin, 3i ounces of dragon's blood, and IJ pounds of red Sanders. Cover with 1 gallon of alcohol; let stand 3 weeks or more, shaking fre- quently; strain or filter for use. Or put 1 ounce of Brazil wood in a double boiler; cover with 1 ounce of pure soft water, and let boil 16 or 30 minutes. Strain through cheese cloth; return to the fire; add \ ounce of borax, \ ounce of cochineal, 1 ounce of alum, and f ounce of isin- glass. Dissolve with gentle heat, stir- ring constantly, and strain or filter for use. Or put in a fruit jar with tight rubber ring J ounce of finely pulver- ized carmine, and add 1 ounce of pure, fresh aqua ammonia. Seal tightly and let stand 3 or 4 days, shaking frequently. Add \ pint of rose water, \ fluid ounce of essence of roses, and J ounce of 90 per cent alcohol. Seal; let stand a few days, shaking frequently; pour off the liq- uor and bottle for use. Or put in a gallon glass bottle 1 ounce of powdered Brazil wood and J ounce of cochineal; pour over this 3 quarts of boiling hot soft water; let stand for 3 or 4 days, shaking frequently; strain through cheese cloth, and add 3 drams each of isin- glass and gum arable, and 2 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol. Perfume with essential oils or essences as desired. Or put in a quart fruit jar IJ ounces of red-rose leaves, dried and pulverized, Add 1 pint of pure soft water, boiling hot; simmer with gen- tle heat in a double boiler for 3 or 3 hours, taking care that the wa- ter does not approach the boiling point. Strain the liquor, and add the strained juice of 3 or 3 large lemons; let stand 34 hours, filter, and add 4 fluid ounces of 95 per cent alcohol as a preservative. Circassian Cream. — Put in a glass fruit jar 4 ounces of fresh suet, 6 ounces of olive oil, IJ ounces of pow- dered gum benzoin, and \ ounce of alkanet root. Place the jar in a double boiler and simmer with gentle heat for several hours. Let stand 34 hours more; heat, and strain through cheese cloth, and when cold perfume with J dram of essence of ambergris, J dram of oil of laven- der, or any other essential oil pre- ferred. Chapped lips.^Preparations rec- ommended for chapped lips are usu- ally based upon white wax, sperma- ceti, or beeswax, with the addition of almond oil and such specifics as ben- zoin, honey, unsalted butter, and the like, adding perfumes and coloring matter according to taste. Melt together with gentle heat 3 ounces of white wax and 1 ounce of spermaceti; add 3 ounces of pure strained honey, and continue to heat and stir until ' fully incorporated. Add in a thin stream 4 ounces of oil of almonds; remove from the fire and continue stirring until the mix- ture is nearly cold; finally perfume with any essential oil according to taste. Or cover with rose water in a glass fruit jar 4 ounces of unsalted butter divided into small pieces; seal, and set aside in a cellar or other cool place for 4 or 5 days. Drain off the rose water, and put the butter in a porcelain double boiler; melt with gentle heat, and stir in 1 ounce each of spermaceti and grated bees- wax, i ounce of powdered alkanet root, 1 ounce of powdered borax, J ounce of confectioner's sugar, 3 drams of powdered gum benzoin, and a double spoonful of strained lemon 474 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES juice. Beat into an emulsion with an egg beater, and set over a slow fire, stirring constantly. Just before it comes to a boil remove from the fire; cool, strain, and bottle for use. Or put in a clean double boiler 4 ounces of unsalted butter and 2 ounces of grated beeswax; squeeze in through a piece of cloth the juice of u bunch of ripe grapes; add the pulp of the grapes and a large apple, chopped fine. Simmer with gentle heat, and when all dissolved add i ounce each of benjamin and storax, also i ounce of alkanet root. Mix until all are incorporated; strain through a piece of fine linen; remelt and pour into jars or molds for use. Or use pure clarified honey. Per- fume as desired. Or mix equal quantities of white sugar candy, white wax, oil of al- monds, and spermaceti, melting all together with gentle heat. ESSENCES AND FEBFTJUES Perfumes. — The subject of per- fumery is perhaps not so important as it was formerly, because the use of strong perfumes appears to be going out of fashion. The natural fragrance of flowers, spices, and per- fumed woods — the sources of the in- gredients used in perfumery — is, however, so delightful that those sub- stances are likely always to be em- ployed to a. certain extent in the toilet. The various forms in which per- fumes are placed upon the market are, according to the degree of dilu- tion, the attar or essential oil, the es- sence or extract, and the perfumed toilet water. Innumerable com- pounds are sold under various fanci- ful titles, as colognes, scents, spirits, (French esprit), and the like. The substances from which these per- fumes are obtained may also in some cases be purchased, as the dry leaves or flowers of plants, various kinds of wood or roots, ambergris (supposed to be a morbid secretion of the sperm whale), and the like. Perfumes are also used in the form of sachets or dry powder, to be placed among garments or linen, either in sachet bags or scattered loosely in chests and drawers. They are likewise employed to perfume the atmosphere of a room by put- ting them in open jars, or burning them in the form of pastilles and incense. Generally speaking, the most con- venient form in which to obtain per- fumes is the attar, otto, or essential oil. A few drops of these concen- trated substances, usually about 5 or 6 drops to the pint or pound, will yield any desired odor. When the essence, the perfumed water, or the originsJ substances themselves are prescribed in recipes, the essential oil can be substituted in most cases by a little careful experimenting. The process of extracting essences and es- sential oUs, however, is not difficult, and can be carried on at home by anyone who is interested enough to procure suitable apparatus. Several methods of preparing homemade ex- tracts are given below which can be employed successfully by anyone. Volatile Oils. — These are found naturally in plants, and are usually obtained by distillation. They are distinguished by their pungent odor and also' by the fact that they are not capable of uniting with alkalies to form soaps. They are used prin- cipally in perfumery, with the excep- tion of turpentine, which is employed in mixing paints and varnishes. This oil is obtained from various cone- bearing trees, and exudes from the bark mixed with rosin and other vegetable juices, from which it is ex- tracted by distillation. The volatile oils upon being ex- posed to air absorb oxygen and crys- tallize into substances having the ap- pearance of rosin, balsam, or gum camphor. The perfumed oils, if not tightly corked, gradually lose their delicate scent. Most volatile oils are obtained by distillation in the pres- ence of water or alcohol, but others are obtained by mechanical processes TOILET PREPARATIONS 475 without heat. The essential oils in solution with water are known as es- sences, as essence of pennyroyal or of mint, and the like. These are often prepared by distillation with water, forming the distilled perfumed wa- ters of commerce. The bath in which perfume-bearing substances are dis- tilled should be slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid. Use a few drops only — just enough, to give a sour taste to the tongue. All the essen- tial oils are soluble in alcohol and ether. To Test Essential Oils. — As many of the essential oils are expensive, they are frequently adulterated. Ob- tain a drop of the pure oil and de- termine the presence of substitutes by placing a drop of each on sepa- rate pieces of paper and comparing them carefully. The attar of roses is often adulterated with the oils of rhodium, sandalwood, camphor, sper- maceti, etc. The pure article has a sweet, smooth taste. A bitter taste indicates the oil of rhodium or san- dalwood; a pungent flavor, the oil of geranium or camphor; a greasy stain on paper, spermaceti. Or mix a drop of the attar of roses with a drop of sulphuric acid. The pure attar will not be affected, but the adulterated article will become dark colored, and the characteristic odors of the different substances with which it may have 'been adulterated can easily be discerned. Or, to test for adulteration with fixed oils, place a drop of the sus- pected oil on paper and evaporate it with gentle heat. The presence of a fixed oil will be detected by a perma- nent greasy stain. Or distill off the volatile oil with gentle heat. The fixed oil will be left behind. Or add three or four times its vol- ume of 80 per cent alcohol. The fixed oil will not be dissolved. Or, to test for alcohol, dilute the suspected oil with water. If the quantity of alcohol is large, the mix- ture will become roily or turbid. To test for oil of turpentine — which is often used to adulterate the oils of orange, lemon, neroli, and the like — set a little of the oil on fire, blow it out, and the presence of tur- pentine may be detected by its char- acteristic odor. Odor of Perfumes. — The odor of the volatile oils is probably caused by their gradual oxidation or chemi- cal union with the oxygen of the air. This is the same process as that which takes place in the rusting of iron, and is similarly promoted by moisture. When treated chemically so 'as to be perfectly pure and free from oxygen and moisture, the most powerful perfumes are odorless. Ex- posure to moist air restores their odor. Perfume-bearing flowers are much more fragrant when mois- tened, as with dew. Roses and other fragrant blossoms are nearly scent- less in dry climates. Rose jars and other mixtures of dry perfume-bear- ing substances give off very much more perfume when slightly mois- tened. Individual Perfumes. — Many per- sons prefer to have a perfume of their own different from those which are on the market or used by others among their acquaintances. This is not especially difficult, although the perfumes that are usually employed, such as heliotrope, violet, white rose, and the like, may, of course, be ob- tained by anyone. An individual perfume may be secured by experi- menting with two or more essential oils, mixing and blending a few drops at a time until a new and agreeable fragrance is obtained. This is, in fact, the way in which colognes and similar preparations are compounded for the market. One celebrated " German cologne " of the past gen- eration is said to have contained no fewer than thirty different kinds of ingredients, the result being a pun- gent perfume of a peculiarly agree- able odor. The proportion in which the various ingredients should be blended is entirely a matter of indi- vidual preference, to be determined by experiment. 476 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES PERFUMES— COLO GNE ^ ^ Is Oil Bergamot... " Cedrat " Cinnamon. . '* Cloves " Jasmine. . . . " Lemon " Lavender. . . Neroli Orange '* Roses " Rosemary. . Tinct. Benjamin " Benzoin.. Ess. Bergamot.. " Cedrat " Ambergris.. " Citron C a r d a- moms " Lemon " Or. Flower. '* Musk " Neroli " Jasmine " Rosemary. . Distilled Water. Orange - flower Water Rose Water. . . . Scented Honey Alcohol (95%).'. Calamus A r a - maticus 40 d. 2d. Idr. lidr. lidr. lidr. 1 02. 2 dr. 2dr Idr 1 dr. Idr. 2 dr. Idr. 10 d. lidr. 2 dr. Idr. 8d. 8d. Idr. 2 dr. 2 dr. 50 d. i oz. 8d. 15 d. i 02, i oz. 15 d. i oz. lipt. Ipt. Ipt. 5 dr. 5 dr. 4 dr. 3d. 2idr. 1 qt. 2qt. 50 d. 50 d. 50 d. 2 dr. 50 d. 1 gal. 30 d 30 d 30 d 30 d ipt. 2oz. Id. ioz. 2 dr. 2 dr. 3oz. 2oz. i oz. 2pt. 1 gal. 1 oz. 2 dr. 1 oz. 6d. Idr. 1 oz, 3 dr. i oz. I oz. 2oz. 8oz. 2 dr. 2 dr. 32 oz. 1 gal. 1 pt. 3pt. 1 gal. Idr. Idr. 6 dr. 8oz. 1 pt. 3pt. Sachet Powders. — Various solid perfume-bearing substances, to which may be added small quantities of the essential oils, are used in powdered form and sprinkled between layers of absorbent cotton or otherwise to per- fume garments laid away in chests or drawers. To prepare the various sachet powders, it is only necessary to finely pulverize the solids in a mor- tar, add the essential oils drop by drop, and mix the whole thoroughly together. When not required for use, sachet powder should be kept in tightly sealed boxes, jars, or bottles, so that the volatile perfumes will not be lost by evaporation. Inceuse — Pastilles. — Several per- fume-bearing substances may be util- ized in solid form by mixing them with combustibles, such as charcoal, niter, and various gums, and setting them on fire to perfume apartments. The table on page 478 embraces a number of recipes for incense pas- tilles. In aU cases first reduce the solids separately to powder in a mor- tar. This may be done by beating the ingredients together in an earthen- ware bowl, or by mixing them on a marble slab or plate of glass with an ordinary knife or a palette knife hav- ing a thin, broad blade. If gum tragacanth is used, it should be dis- solved in water to the consistency of mucUage. The essential oils and other liquid perfimies are then to be added and thoroughly worked into the mass, the whole formed into small cones like chocolate drops, and thoroughly dried either in a very slow oven or by the heat of the sun. When re- quired for use, one or more of these cones may be placed on any hot sur- TOILET PREPARATIONS 477 face or set on fire at the tip and al- lowed to gradually smolder, when they will give off an agreeable per- fume. Or, where niter and charcoal are both employed, dissolve the niter in sufficient soft water to make a soft paste with the charcoal. Dry this paste thoroughly, and pour over it the liquid perfumes. If other solid ingredients are added, they should be in powdered form. Mix the whole with gum tragacanth dissolved as above. Dry and use as above. be free from all foreign substances. They are then placed in a large earthen pot or a wooden vessel, cov- ered with pure soft or distilled water, and exposed to sunshine. The vessel should be taken indoors at night, kept covered, and placed preferably in a warm spot. The attar or essen- tial oil of the rose petals rises on the surface in the form of a scum. This may be carefully taken up by a small piece of absorbent cotton on the end of a stick. The oil may then be squeezed from the cotton into a very PERFUMES— SACHET Caraway Cassia Cedar Cloves Coriander Seed Black Currant Leaves. . . Arom. Calamus Gum Benzoin Tonka Beans Dried Lemon Peel Lemon Geranium Leaves Lavender Flowers Rose Leaves Orris Root Mint Rhubarb Wood Santal Wood Salt Thyme Vanilla Beans Musk Oil Bergamot " Almonds " Lemon " Neroli " Lemon Grass " Rhodium " Rose " Santal Ess. Ambergris " Bergamot " Jasmine '* Lavender '* Lemon 1 lb. 12 gr. Idr. 4 dr. Idr. idr. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 OZ: 8oz 8oz 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 5 gr. J dr. ilb. lib. 1 lb. ilb Idr. Idr. idr. i oz. i oz. ilb. i oz. 1 oz. i oz. 1 lb. 4 oz. 1 oz. 4 dr. Idr. i oz. li oz. 2oz. idr. 4 gr. 6 m. 10 m. 20 m. 2 dr. ilb. lib. ilb 1 lb 2 1b. Idr. idr. idr. 1 lb. ilb. i oz. Rose Perfume. — One of the most universally popular odors is the per- fume of the rose. Most persons can obtain rose petals in any quantity during the month of June, and their fragrance may be extracted and stored for future enjoyment. Attar of Rose. — Thi^ costly per- fume is prepared principally in the Orient and imported to America, but the process of preparation is simplic- ity itself and can be tried by any- one. A large quantity of petals of the rose are picked carefully so as to small vial with a glass or rubber stopper and preserved for use. The process should be continued ilntil the scum no longer rises. The vessel in which the roses are steeped should be covered during the day with a fine screen; otherwise it is likely to be- come a breeding place for mosqui- toes. Needless to say, it should be kept as free as possible from dust and dirt. Or put dried rose petals in an earthenware or glass vessel, cover vnth olive oil, and simmer with very gentle heat until the oil has 478 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES PERFUMES— PASTILLES— INCENSE Niter Charcoal Gum Galbanum Frankincense... " Benzoin " Tragacanth " Storax Oil Bitter Almond . . " Caraway " Cloves " Neroli " Lavender " Rose " Santal " Olibanum " Styrax " Thyme Ess. Ambergris. Benzoic Acid Clear Sirup «Ess. Musk " Rose Alcohol Orange-flower Water Roae Water Cascarilla Bark Burnt Sugar Orange Powder Powder of Rose Yellow Sanderswood. Vanilla Bean Udr. 6oz. 4 dr. q. 5. 2 dr. 2 dr. 8 dr. 2 dr. ■gfS I" 2oz, IJ lb. 2 OS. i oz. 1 oz. IJ oz. 3 Ah a J oz. i lb. q. s. 11 parts 4 dr. idr. idr. idr. idr. 12 parts idr. 6 oz. ipt. 17 oz. 3i oz. i OZ. 3oz. i oz. 3oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 2ioz, 3oz. i oz. i QZ. 6 oz. 4 oz. 5 oz. 23 oz. 5 oz. 5 oz. 5 oz. 5 oz. 2ioz. 7oz, 2 lb. 1 lb. 1 lb. S 0) o (1,0 2ioz. 12 oz. li oz. 2ioz. 2oz. 6oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 15 gr. q. s. 1 part i oz. 1 oz. 2oz. fully extracted both the odor and the color of the flowers. Or the essential oil of roses or of any flower which has an agreeable fragrance may be extracted as follows: procure a quan- tity of the petals of any flower or flowers desired, a roU of absorbent cotton in thin layers, a wide-mouthed ■ glass bottle or earthen vessel, and a small quantity of high-grade olive oil. Put a layer of petals in the empty bottle, sprinkle over them a small quantity of fine salt, and cover with a layer of absorbent cotton dipped in olive oil. So continue until the bottle is filled. Close it tightly with a glass stopper, a piece of blad- der, parchment, or rubber cloth, and expose to the sun. In from ten to twenty days squeeze out the oil, which will be found nearly equal to the commercial article. Or arrange the flowers in the same manner in an earthen jar and simmer with gentle heat by means of a dou- ble boiler, changing the flowers oc- casionally until the odor is satisfac- tory. Rectified spirits may be added, and the whole squeezed and strained for use. Eose Jar. — Many artistic vases with suitable lids can be purchased for this purpose, and these make very acceptable holiday gifts; or an earth- enware or glass vessel, such as a fruit jar which can be tightly closed, may be employed. Gather fresh roses on a clear day when the petals are dry. Place these petals in the rose jar in layers, cov- ering each with a thin layer of com- mon salt. Then add two or three handfuls each of lavender flowers, rosemary leaves, and sweet marjo- TOILET PREPARATIONS 479 ram. Other flowers may be added if desired, or a jar may be filled en- tirely with rose petals. Add 4 ounces of pulverized bay salt and 1 ounce each of various spices, as cloves, cin- namon, grated nutmeg, and the like, also orris root, storax, or indeed any other perfumes that may be pre- ferred. The jar is to be kept closely covered, except when perfume is de- sired. Then the lid may be removed and the contents slightly moistened. Potpourri. — This is a. mixture of dried flowers and spices not ground. To make it, take dried lavender flow- ers, 1 pound; dried rose leaves, 1 pound; crushed orris root, J pound; crushed cloves, 2 ounces; crushed cinnamon, 3 ounces; crushed allspice, S ounces; table salt, 1 pound. To Prepare Tinctures. — A tincture of flowers having strong perfume, as the tuberose, jasmine, violet, jonquil, and heliotrope, may be prepared by crowding the fresh blossoms into a fruit jar and covering them with alcohol. After they have stood for a few days, the mixture may be strained through a linen cloth, the flowers squeezed to extract as much of the essence as possible, and fresh flowers added. Or glycerin may be scented for the toilet and bath with any desired odor by the same method. Or put half-inch layers of any flowers in an earthen pot or glass jar with layers of fine salt between. Screw the top on tightly and place the jar in a cellar or other dark, cool place. This process requires from one to two months. At the end of this time strain and squeeze the liq- uor through a cloth, put it into a glass bottle, and let it stand in the sun to clarify. Or place dry rose or other petals in a large bottle or fruit jar, cover with alcohol or other rectified spirits, close tightly, and preserve for use. A few drops of this tincture sprinkled about a room will give it a delicious perfume. Geranium Perfume. — A perfume which is very agreeable to many may be made by either of the above meth- ods from the leaves of any of the sweet-smelling geraniums. The tinc- ture, obtained by packing the leaves in a fruit jar, filling it with alcohol and allowing it to stand for a few weeks, is perhaps the easiest to pre- pare. The leaves may be renewed, if desired, to strengthen the perfume. To Distill Essences. — A common glass retort, such as is used by chem- ists, may be used for distilling per- fumes. This consists of a round glass vessel with a wide mouth that can be closed by a cork or glass stopper. A glass tube passes through this cork to a receiver placed upon the table. . This tube should be long enough to allow the steam forming in the retort to condense before escaping. To fa- cilitate condensation, a cloth kept wet with cold water may be wrapped about the tube. A small alcohol lamp is kept burning under the retort, care being taken to keep the lamp at just the right distance, so that the liquor will not run over but pass over gen- tly, drop by drop. Perfumes are es- sentially volatile; and by this process they pass off with the steam con- densed in the tube, and thus become thoroughly amalgamated with the distilled liquor. Special appliances called stills can be purchased for the manufacture of perfumes, but this method is entirely practical for home use. The bath in which perfumes are distilled should be slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid. Smelling Salts. — The base of the best quality of smelling salts is the true neutral carbonate of ammonia. This is a volatile salt which keeps its pungency as long as it lasts. The portion exposed to the air as it vol- atilizes separates into carbonic-acid gas and gaseous ammonia. Care should be taken in ordering to pro- cure the true carbonate of ammonia and not the sesquicarbonate, which does not possess an equally strong, agreeable, or lasting pungency. Smelling salts may be prepared by putting the carbonate of ammonia in a suitable glass bottle with a stopper 480 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES of ground glass, and adding any de- sired perfume, as 8 parts of carbo- nate of ammonia to 1 part of oil of lavender, or a suitable quantity of other essential oils, as bergamot, cloves, cassia, verbena, and the like. Or put equal quantities of slaked lime and carbonate of ammonia in a glass-stoppered bottle, cover with aqua ammonia, and add 13 to 20 drops of any desired essential oil or oils. Or put in a glass-stoppered bottle absorbent cotton or a small sponge cut up into fine pieces. FiU with common liquid anunonia, and add 5 or 6 drops each of various essential oils according to taste. Perfumed Toilet Waters. — These preparations are the product of dis- tillation. The perfume-yielding in- gredients are placed in a glass retort or a still, with water or spirits, and subjected to heat. The perfume is volatilized and passes with the steam into the receiver, the distilled water thus becoming thoroughly impreg- nated. Distillation is usually con- ducted on a large scale, and the pro- portions recommended are often for manufacturers' use. Most persons prefer to purchase perfumed waters rather than to go to the expense and trouble of obtaining a retort and conducting the operation. Anyone, however, who wishes to make this ex- periment for amusement or to make money by the sale of these prepara- tions may readily reduce the propor- tions to suit his apparatus. To distill with water, put the per- fume-bearing substances in the retort in the proportion of about 1 part by bulk to 8 parts of water. Continue the distillation as long as the dis- tilled water carried over continues to yield the desired odor. Additional water may be added if necessary. The less water used, the stronger the perfvimes. The quality can be greatly improved by distilling a second or third time. To distill with spirits, put the in- gredients in a flask, and cover with just enough spirits to thoroughly moisten them. The receptacle at the end of the tube should be a corked flask or bottie through which a tube should pass to within an inch of the bottom of the flask. This receptacle should be placed in a basin of iced water. The principal substances from which perfumed waters are dis- tilled are lavender flowers, rosemary tops, orange flowers, rose leaves, myr- tie flowers, marjoram, orange peel, lemon peel, laurel leaves, bitter alm- onds, and elder flowers. These are distilled separately, and the distillate is, of course, named accordingly. Perfumed Waters. — A substitute for rose water and other distilled waters may be quickly prepared by dropping the essential oil or attar of rose or other substances into distilled boiling water. The water should be taken off the fire at a boil, the oil dropped in, and stirred vigorously while cooling. Rose Water. — Dissolve 1 dram of attar of rose, or a proportionate quantity of other essential oils, in 1 pint of rectified spirits; while hot place in a 2-gallon jug and add Ij gallons of pure distilled water, heated, but not quite to the boiling point — say 190°. Cork the jug and shake, cautiously at first but thor- oughly afterwards, until cold. This form of rose water will be found equal to the commercial article. Or drop 12 drops of attar of rose on a half ounce of cube sugar. Add 2 drams of carbonate of magnesia. Put in a fruit jar and pour in gradu- ally 1 quart of water, stirring brisk- ly. Add 2 ounces of rectified spirits. Place a funnel of filtering paper in another fruit jar, and pour through the fimnel to filter. The effect of the magnesia is to break up the oil glob- ules and assist in forming an emul- sion with water. The magnesia is removed by filtering. Other per- fumed waters may be prepared in a similar manner. Violet Water. — Put 1 pint of alco- hol or proof spirits in a quart fruit jar. Add 1 pound of orris root, cover, and shake. Let stand on tte TOILET PREPARATIONS 481 dregs for a week or 10 days. Filter through filter paper to remove the orris root. Or mix deodorized alcohol, IS ounces; rose water, 2 ounces; extract of cassia, 1 ounce; and extract of violet, S ounces. Mix, shake, and filter. Or mix 1 pint of alcohol and 1 ounce each of neroli and essence of violets. Lavender Water. — A favorite arti- cle for the toilet is the oil of lavender diluted with rectified alcohol, to which various other perfumes may be added according to taste. To pre- pare lavender water, it is only neces- sary to first mix the oil of lavender and other essential oils (if any) with a little of the alcohol; then add the remaining alcohol in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Finally stir in the other ingredients. The whole should be placed in a glass fruit jar with rubber rings, or other closely stoppered vessel, and allowed to stand for several months before using. It should be shaken frequently. The longer it can be allowed to stand before being opened the better the quality will be. The English oil of lavender is the best. Other perfimied toilet waters may be prepared by substituting any of the essential oils, according to taste, in the following table. Perfumed Toilet Waters. — The number of possible combinations of perfumes diluted with distilled or soft water, which form the perfumed toilet waters of commerce, is, of course, imlimited. The foUovring ex- amples illustrate the method of com- bining these, and may be recom- mended to be as desirable as any: Put in a pint glass bottle or fruit jar i ounce of oil of rosemary and 1 dram of essence of ambergris; add 1 pint of 95 per cent alcohol. Shake well, remove the cork, and let stand 34 hours. Then cork tightly and let stand a month or 6 weeks, shaking frequently, after which put in a tightly stoppered bottle until ready for use. This is the well-known " Hungary water." Or put in a 2-quart fruit jar 1 ounce of oil of bergamot, J ounce of tincture of benzoin, 1 dram of oil of cinnamon, and cover with 1 quart of LAVENDER TOILET WATER 1 1 a 1 § ID 4 C8 1 •a O g 1 1 i I f Lloohol (95%) 6oz. loz. 4 dr. idr. ipt. 1 oz. 2Jdr. 2pt. 4oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 2 dr. Ipt. ioz. ioz. 6 dr. Ipt. 3 dr. 6 m. 6 m. 3 dr. idr. }dr. 2oz. 1 oz. J dr. 1 gal. 2oz. 4 gal. Ipt. l§oz. 3 dr. idr. Idr. 4 dr. Idr. i oz. loz. 4 gal. 2oz. 4oz. i oz. loz. 2Jqt. 2oz. 6 dr. Idr. 20 oz. 6 dr. * Sage ' Thyme 10 m. i * Rose Geranium Essence Am.bergris Musk 2 dr. 4 m. 4 m. 1 r I 1 *' Hoses inct. Orris Root Musk inct. Benzoin 482 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES 95 per cent alcohol. Let stand a month or 6 weeks, shake frequently, filter, and put in a tightly stoppered glass bottle. This is a standard recipe for " Florida water." Or, for a cheaper grade of " Flor- ida water," put in a 3-quart fruit jar i ounce of oil of bergamot, i ounce of lavender. Cover this with 1 pint of oil of lemon, and | ounce of oil of 95 per cent alcohol. Shake well and add i dram each of oil of cloves and oil of cinnamon. Let stand 34 hours, add 1 quart of pure soft or distilled water, filter, and bottle for use. Or, for a simple " Florida water," put in a corked fruit jar J ounce of oil of bergamot, J ounce of tincture of benzoin, and J pint of 95 per cent alcohol. Dilute with pure soft or distilled water to the extent desired. Or, to illustrate the great variety of ingredients that may be employed in this manner, the following recipes will be stated without comment. Any of these, while more expensive than the above, will be found to be of most excellent quality. Mix i pint of tincture of cedar wood, i pint of tincture of myrrh, and i pint of tincture of krameria, and add 6 drops of oil of rose. Or put in a glass fruit jar 1 dram each of oils of lemon, lavender, and bergamot, i dram of oil of neroli, i dram of tincture of turmeric, 16 drops of oil of balm, and 6 drops of attar of rose. Cover with 1 pint of pure alcohol and let stand a week or 10 days, shaking frequently. Or mix J pint each of the essence of rose, jasmine, orange flower, and clove gillyflower. Add 1 pint of de- odorized alcohol, i ounce each of es- sence of vanilla and musk, J ounce of red sanderswood, and i pint each of orange-flower water and rose water. Or put in a 2-quarr fruit jar J ounce each of essence of cloves and balsam of Peru, J ounce each of musk and bergamot, | ounce each of essence of neroli and thyme, and i pint of orange-flower water, and pour over all 1 quart of deodorized 95 per cent alcohol. This is the so- caUed "balsam of a thousand flow- ers." Or mix 3 ounces each of extract of violet, orange flower, and tuberose, i ounce of tincture of musk, 1 dram of essence of cedrat, 6 drops of attar of rose, i dram of oil of bitter alm- onds, and 1 ounce each of rose wa- ter and orange-flower water. Cover all with li pints of deodorized 95 per cent alcohol, and let stand a week or 10 days, shaking frequently, after which filter and preserve in tightly stoppered bottles. CHAPTER XVIII HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN DANDRUFF AND SHAMPOOING— HAIR WASHES— HAIR TONICS— HAIR OILS— HAIR DYES— OTHER HAIR TOPICS— THE BEARD. MUSTACHE, AND SHAVING— TOILET PREPARATIONS FOR MEN Eairdressing. — The subject of hairdressing, while of interest to both sexes, is especially important to women, both because the mass and length of their hair render it difScult to handle and keep clean, and also because any peculiarities it may have are very conspicuous. This subject is not only of interest to every wom- an for herself, but it may also be mentioned among the many methods of earning pin money in small com- mimities. In neighborhoods where there is no professional hairdresser any woman with natural deftness and taste can earn a good many dollars by caring for ladies' and children's hair, doing up ladies' hair in proper style for parties, and also by teach- ing inexperienced persons, for a small fee, how to do up their own hair in the latest style of coiffure. The in- formation contained in the following paragraphs can thus be put to prac- tical use and turned into dollars and cents. The attention of neighbors can be called to a woman's willingness to serve them in this manner by having a few business cards printed and giv- ing them to one's friends to distrib- ute among their acquaintances, or by means of a reading notice or business card in a local paper, which may be paid for by services to the wife or family of the editor. Nature of the Hair. — The hair, like "the nails, is formed of the same horny substance as that which ap- pears on the outer surface of the skin when it becomes callous. Each hair, on the other hand, has a well- developed root which runs deep into the skin. The pigments which give the hair its color are present in light hair as well as dark, except that gray hairs may not contain them. Some- times gray hairs are produced by the splitting of the hair in such a way as to admit the ' air. The daily growth of the hair is about one twen- tieth of an inch. It normally con- tinues to grow for several years, and reaches from 18 inches to 1 yard in length. The hair is subject to va- rious diseases, and may be affected by the constitutional results of wast- ing and infectious ailments, such as typhoid fever, arid also by severe emotions, such as fright, grief, and the like. Many preparations- are ad- vertised which claim that they will infallibly promote the growth of the hair. It cannot be too strongly em- phasized that all such claims are humbugs. Care of the Hair. — The . proper care of the hair under normal con- ditions is very simple. The objects to be kept in mind are to preserve its natural luster and texture by means of absolute cleanliness, and to mas- sage the scalp sufficiently to remove any scurf or dandruff that may ad- here to it, and thereby promote the active circulation of the blood. All this must be done without injury to 484 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES the scalp or the hair by pulling, scratching, or tearing. Cutting the hair frequently has a tendency, es- pecially in youth, to thicken the indi- vidual hairs and promote their growth. Neither this nor any other known process, however, tends to in- crease the actual number of hairs. All claims to the contrary are the pretensions of charlatans. Professionsil hairdressers do not advocate shampooing the hair oftener than once a month. A thorough brushing once or twice a week is re- garded by them as sufficient for cleanliness and as much more bene- ficial to the hair and scalp. Much contradictory advice has been given on the subject of brush- ing the hair, some persons saying that stiff brushes should be used and the scalp and hair brushed by means of them with a good deal of vigor; others recommending soft brushes and a very moderate amount of fric- tion. These differences are probably due to different views of the objects to be obtained by brushing. One ob- ject is to promote the health of the scalp and hence to give strength and vigor to the hair. For this purpose brushes with hard, stiff bristles may be used with considerable vigor, pro- vided the skin is not injured. The other object is to smooth the hair and free it from dust. For this pur- pose brushes may be soft and used with a very moderate pressure. Care should be taken, on the one hand, not to scratch the scalp, tear the roots of the hair, or cause it to split; and on the other, not to neglect the stimulating effects of massaging the scalp and removing dandruff. In other words, a vigorous brushing should be directed to the head or scalp, the gentler stroke being em- ployed in brushing the hair itself. The general opinion is that it is feasible to brush the hair free from dust each night before retiring. Ap- plications of tonics and restoratives should also be made at this time, as they have the best opportunity of doing their work during sleep and es- pecially whUe the blood is circulating freely as the result of brushing. The care of the hair must be governed by common sense, and general rules must be adapted to individual con- ditions. Some persons find it neces- sary to wash the hair as often as twice a month, and with others once a month is sufficient. When the hair is oily it should not be brushed as freely or frequently as otherwise. When it is dry and harsh the appli- cation of lanolin or other pomades may be necessary. An analogy may be found in the grooming of horses. Every good groom knows by experience that plenty of combing and brushing not only produces a fine coat but pro- motes the health and vitality of the animal. Hence brushes with moder- ately stiff bristles should be chosen. For men the so-called military or broad double brushes, one for each hand, are to be preferred. To Dry-clean the Hair. — ^To thor- oughly cleanse the hair it should be brushed successively from partings made in all directions upon the scalp, the utmost care being taken that for- eign matter accumulated on the brush is removed and not returned by the next stroke to the hair. Professional hairdressers when giv- ing the hair a dry cleaning run a comb through the brush each time the latter is drawn through the hair, and afterwards wipe the comb clean on a towel. The object of this proc- ess is to remove dirt and dandruff and bring about the additional soft- ness resulting from perfect cleanli- ness. If this is not done, the natural oil of the hair mixing with foreign substances merely makes the hair sticky. Care of Hairbrushes. — Brushes should be cleaned very often and thoroughly, as a surprising amount of dust and dirt gathers in the hair. This quickly accumulates in the brushes and fills them. Hence the brush should be cleaned immediately after using. Substances recommended for this HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 485 purpose are gasoline, ammonia, bo- rax, and sal soda, of which the last is least desirable. It is also a good plan to disinfect the brush by put- ting a few drops of carbolic acid in the water. Neither hot water nor soap should be used, and the bristles should be allowed to dry thoroughly before using them. The effect of hot water and soap is to soften the bris- tles and also the glue with which they are commonly fastened into the brush, and when soft, the bristles are likely to split and break oflF or faU out. To Clean a Hairbrush. — First comb out the loose hair with a coarse comb. Turn the brush downward and strike the bristles on a smooth, solid surface to loosen the dust and dandruff. Then rub the bristles over a Turkish or other coarse towel to wipe off as much of the loosened dust as possible. To Wash a Brush. — Take two bowls of cold water in which to wash and to rinse the brush respectively. In one put about 1 tablespoonful of ammonia to 1 pint of water, and in- troduce the bristles in this without immersing the back of the brush. Rub the bristles back and forth with the hand in the water until they are dean. Or, to assist in cleaning them, re- move the brush from the water and brush the dust and dirt out of it with a clean, stiff whisk broom which will work down into the bristles. Af- terwards rinse in clear water in the same way. Or add about 3 or 3 teaspoonfuls of alum to 1 pint of water, and rinse the bristles in this to toughen them. Wipe the bristles back and forth on a clean, dry towel, and hang up the brush by the handle to dry, or better still, lay it down in the draught with the bristles down. Never lay a wet brush down on the back, as this per- mits the water to run down the bris- tles and soak the glue with which they are fastened to the back. Do not expose a wet brush to direct sun- shine or other drying heat, as too rapid drying has a tendency to warp or crack the back of the brush. Or iirst moisten the bristles in clear warm water and sprinkle them with powdered borax, after which wash and rinse as above. Or dissolve 1 tablespoonful of sal soda in 1 quart of boiling water and let stand until It is cold. Wash and rinse the brush as above. To Clean Combs. — A wire brush or whisk broom is the best means to clean gutta-percha combs, and is preferable to soaking them in water. Or they may be washed in either of the solutions recommended above for washing brushes. DANSBUFF AST} SHAKFOOme Dandruff. — Dandruff is a very common disease. It is caused by the formation of a scurf on the scalp which becomes detached in fine, dry scales. Unless these scales are re- moved from the hair by frequent brushing they give it a dry and lus- terless appearance. They also tend to accumulate on clothing and to give the impression of uncleanliness. Advertised preparations for the cure of dandruff are not only usually of no avail, contrary to the claims which are so persistently advertised in their favor, but are often positively inju- rious. Among the causes of dandruff may be mentioned weakness of the scalp from infectious diseases or otherwise, pressure of heavy and close hats and caps or of the hair matted upon the scalp, excessive use of hair oils and dyes, and other causes. These condi- tions shoiild be avoided as much as possible, and the scalp should be kept perfectly clean, with due atten- tion to instructions already given for its care. Hygienic measures for the improvement of the general health are also very important. Substances which are especially recommended for dandruff are yolks of eggs vnth chlo- roform, borax with or without cam- phor, carbolic acid, soda, and chlorate of potash. 486 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Add 10 drops of chloroform to the yolk of an egg, and beat with an egg beater to a stiff consistency. Rub the size of an English walnut of this mixture into the scalp with the tips of the fingers, taking care to rub it thoroughly into the roots of the hair. Afterwards wash the scalp with Cas- tile or lanolin soap, and dry thor- oughly with a soft towel. Some phy- sicians claim that this is the only remedy for dandruff that is at once harmless and efficacious. Or pulverize 1 ounce of borax and J ounce of camphor, and dissolve in 1 quart of boiling water. Use this solution cold. Moisten the hair fre- quently. Some of the camphor wiU sink to the bottom of the ves- sel, but enough will remain in solu- tion to be effective. After using, rub a little neat's-foot oil into the scalp. Or dissolve 1 ounce of flowers of sulphur in 1 quart of water. Shake frequently while dissolving. Allow the solution to stand imtil it settles, and saturate the hair with the clear liquor night and morning. Or put a lump of fresh quicklime the size of a butternut in 1 pint of water. Let it stand 12 hours. Strain through a linen cloth and add J pint of white-wine vinegar. Rub this mix- ture into the roots of the hair with the finger tips. If white-wine Vine- gar is not obtainable, the best that you have will do. Or mix 2 ounces of glycerin with i dram of carbolic acid and 1 dram of oil of bergamot or other perfume. Rub this mixture into the roots of the hair with the finger tips and af- terwards use bay rum. This tends to keep the hair and scalp in good con- dition and to prevent the formation of dandruff. Or dissolve 1 thimbleful of pow- dered borax in 1 teacupful of water. Rub this mixture into the scalp with the fingers, and follow with a brisk brushing. Where the dandruff is plentiful, use this mixture daily for a week. Afterwards use twice a week until a cure is effected. I To Shampoo the Hair. — Shampoo- ing Is a word which means cleansing (the head and hair. The base of the (best shampoo mixtures is undoubt- edly yolk of egg. Castile soap, how- ever, is highly recommended. Borax, ammonia, sal soda, and salts of tar- tar are added on account of their cleansing properties; alcohol or bay rum to cut the oily substances and as preservatives; distilled water and rose water for convenience of appli- cation. Perhaps the best of all shampoos is the yolk of an egg beaten up with a pint of soft warm water. Apply at once, and rinse off with warm water and Castile or other hard white soap. Or add 6 drops of chloroform to the above. Or salts of tartar may be used for this purpose and is commonly em- ployed by barbers. Dissolve i oimce of salts of tartar in 1 pint of soft water; apply freely and rub to a lather. Wash with soft warm water and castile soap. Or dissolve 1 ounce of salts of tar- tar in IJ pints of soft water. Add 1 ounce of castile soap in shavings and 4 ounces of bay rum. The salts of tartar will remove dandruff, and the soap will cleanse the hair and scalp. Or mix 1 pint of soft water, 1 ounce of sal soda, and i ounce of cream of tartar. Or mix J ounce of alcohol, J ounce of glycerin, J ounce of sulphuric ether, J dram of aqua ammonia, J ounce of castile soap in shavings, and 1 pint of soft water. After using a shampoo mixture, a little vaseline, oil, or pomade should be rubbed into the hair to take the place of the natural oil which is washed out in the shampooing. Or pea flour or almond meal is rec- ommended for cleansing the hair and scalp. The hair should first be washed with cold water, and a small handful of pea flour or almond meal, as preferred, rubbfed into it for five or ten minutes. Fresh water should be added from time to time until a •HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 487 perfect lather forms. The whole head should then be rinsed clean, dried with a soft towel, and brushed thoroughly. This process thoroughly cleanses the hair and tends to give it a soft, silky texture. It is also said to be invigorating to the scalp. . To Compound Shampoos. — When yolk of egg is employed it should be beaten stiff with an egg beater, other dry materials added, and the whole diluted by adding distilled water slowly, and stirring briskly with an legg beater or otherwise to form an emulsion or thin paste. For the ideal egg shampoo, however, see above im- der "Dandruff." For other remedies, bring distilled water to a boil, take it off the stove, dissolve in it such substances as Cas- tile soap, sal soda, borax, etc., add bay rum and spirits if desired, strain through linen, and allow to cool be- fore perfimies are added. To Apply Shampoo Mixtures. — Apply about a tablespoonful of a good shampoo mixture, rubbing it into the scalp with the tips of the fingers and working it in thoroughly. Massage with the hands until a fine lather is produced. Afterwards rinse with clear soft water, first hot then cold, dry the hair with a coarse towel, and apply a little oil or poma- tum, if desired, to' take the place of the natural oil which has been re- moved from the hair by this process. Dry-hair Shampoo. — ^Mix 4 ounces of powdered orris root with 1 ounce of talcum powder, and sprinkle free- ly through the hair. This absorbs the superfluous oil and gives the hair a very thick and fluffy appearance. It is especially useful to persons whose hair is heavy and oily. It is also cooling and cleansing to the scalp. HAIB WASHES The solid and semisolid bases com- monly found in toilet preparations are naturally to a great degree ab- sent from those given here. The base of these washes is usually soft water, rose water, ean de cologne, or some form of spirits in which the remedial agencies and perfumes are held in solution. Preparations containing al- cohol and other spirits should be used with caution, as by evaporation they tend to dry the scalp and also to deprive the hair of its natural oil, which gives normally a perfect luster. Such substances as castile soap, ammonia, sal soda, salts of tartar, borax, and the like are often added for their cleansing properties. The principal remedial agents recom- mended are such substances as can- tharides, arnica, camphor, sulphur, iron sulphate, and the like, and va^ rious vegetable infusions. These are employed for certain specific prop- erties beneficial to the scalp. As in other similar toUet preparations, rose, elder-flower, orange-flower, rosemary, and other waters may be used, ac- cording to taste, and the same may be said of the various perfumes. Nothing, perhaps, is better to cleanse the hair than diluted am- monia water — 1 part of aqua am- monia to 10 parts of water. The hair and scalp should afterwards be weU rinsed with clear warm water. Or pour 1 pint of boiling water on a handful of rosemary leaves, and add i tablespoonful of carbonate of ammonia. Cork tightly and let stand over night, shake well, and strain through cheese cloth. Preserve in a tightly stoppered bottle. Or mix 2 ounces of sal soda and 1 ounce of cream of tartar. DUute with soft water to any desired con- sistency. Or dissolve 1 tablespoonful of aqua ammonia and 1 teaspoonful of borax in 1 quart of soft water. Wash the hair thoroughly and rub dry with a towel. Or dissolve 30 grains of salts of tartar in 1 pint of soft water, and add IJ ounces of glycerin. Or dissolve J ounce of camphor and 1 ounce of borax in powdered form in 1 quart of boiling water. Put in a tightly stoppered bottle and let stand over night. Shake well before using. 488 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Or dissolve 1 dram of pearlash in i pint of alcohol; dilute with 2 quarts of soft water. Or boil 1 ounce of sassafras wood and 1 quart of soft water or diluted water, and add i pint of alcohol and J pint of pearlash. Care, however, should be taken not to use these preparations too fre- quently. Once or twice a month is often enough to wash the hair in this manner unless it is unusually oily, and it should be borne in mind that the use of hair washes, by depriving the hair of its natural oil, has a tendency to make it harsh and dry, and hence tends to split it. After the use of washes of this sort a little vaseline, hair oil, or pomatum may be rubbed into the hair to replace the natural oil. for fifteen or twenty minutes to make a, strong infusion. Next strain, add such solids as castUe soap (in shavings), borax, sal soda, and the like while the liquor is warm enough to dissolve them, and reserve the per- fumes untU it becomes cool. HAIR TONICS Loosening and Falling Out of the Hair. — This often takes place as the result of infectious diseases, on ac- count of the weakening of the scalp. Contrary to common belief, it is probably never due to results of dis- sipation and excesses. Hygienic measures to improve the general health come first in importance. The use of tar soap and the yolk of egg is beneficial. To plunge the head HAIR PREPARATIONS, WASHES, ETC. 1 s 1 3 a 1 1 i o 1 1 i 1 1 .£1 a i I loz. 15 dr. lioz. Ipt. 2oz. Joz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 24 oz. 1 oz, idr. 4 dr. 8oz. loz. ipt. Iqt. ioz. ipt. Iqt. iPt. idr. 2oz. 2qt. 6oz. 2 dr. iPt. 2oz. 2oz. ipt. Iqt. Idr. 4pt. 6oz. 2oz. 2oz. i oz. 1 oz. 2qt. 1 lb. 2oz. 2qt. 2oz. 2oz. 2oz. 2oz. 1 oz. i oz. Iqt. Castile Soap Creaia of Tartar Pearlash 2 dr. Tinct. Cantharides ipt. Sherry Wine Eau de Cologne Tinct Myrrh Ext. Rondeletia Water (Soft) 1 gal. Hazel Bark Rosemary Leaves Southernwood Compounding Hair Washes. — When the solid substances, as rose- mary or bay leaves, saflFron wood, southernwood, and the like are rec- ommended, they are prepared by boiling in the water or other liquid into cold water night and morning, and afterwards to dry the hair, brushing the scalp briskly to a warm glow, is beneficial for men so af- fected. The recipes for various ton- ics and lotions will be given contain- HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 489 ing all the known specific remedial agents, and persons threatened with baldness are earnestly advised to compound their own remedies and not purchase advertised nostrums. Dry and Harsh Hair. — This condi- tion of the hair may be improved by shampooing the scalp with yolk of egg, as recommended for dandruff, or the scalp may be washed with a weak solution of green tea applied cold, or with an emulsion of castUe soap con- taining a small quantity of tannin. Alcohol in any form is highly objec- tionable, as it tends by rapid evapo- ration to increase the dryness of the scalp. Shampooing the scalp occa- sionally with a good shampoo mix- ture is also useful. This condition may occur from too frequent wash- ing of the scalp with soap or other substances that deprive it of its nat- ural oUs. Baldness. — Absolute baldness is a condition in which the follicles or roots of the hair have lost their vi- tality. It is absolutely incurable. Hence preventive measures should be taken as soon as there is any indica- tion of a tendency to baldness, as shown by the falling out or loosening of the hair. The bases of most hair invigorators and restorers is some form of cantharides or quinine. A number of simple household remedies have been recommended which are harmless and may be tried by any- one, among these being sage tea, Ja- maica rum, lemon juice, vinegar, salt water, lobelia, onion juice, boxwood, and ammonia. Instructions for the use of these homemade remedies are as follows: Mix 1 pint of strong sage tea, 1 pint of bay rum, and 1 or 2 ounces, more or less, of glycerin, depending upon the amount of natural oil in the hair; or substitute neat's-foot oil fo? glycerin if the latter does not suit the skin. Shake the mixture well and apply with the finger tips to the scalp, rubbing thoroughly into the roots of the hair every night. This tends to prevent the hair from turn- ing gray. Or wash the head daily with good old Jamaica rum. Or rub the pulp of a lemon on the scalp. Or pour boiling water on rock salt or sea salt, using 3 heaping table- spoonfuls to 1 quart of water, and allow it to cool before using. Use as a wash daily. Or 1 teaspoonful of ammonia in 1 quart of warm water. Use as a wash. Or fill a jar or bottle with pow- dered lobelia. Mix brandy and sweet oil in equal parts, and add as much of the mixture as the powdered lo- belia will take up. Mix and allow the compound to stand three or four days. Apply to the roots of the hair by rubbing with the finger tips daily. Or cut a small onion in half and rub the scalp with it just before re- tiring. The onion juice is said to stimulate the skin and invigorate the roots of the hair. Rinse well with soft water and castile soap in the morning. Or steep in a covered saucepan for IS or 30 minutes 4 large handfuls of the leaves of the common box, such as is used for garden borders. Let the decoction stand over night. Strain through a linen cloth and add J ounce of cologne or lavender water. Use as a wash daily. Hair Tonics. — The principal reme- dial agents in proprietary articles usually known as invigorators or re- storatives for the hair are the va- rious preparations of cantharides (usually the vinegar or tincture), quinine (either in the form of cin- chona bark or quinine sulphate), car- bonate of ammonia, tincture of ar- nica, an infusion of the tendrils of the grapevine, and various astringent substances. These preparations may be based on solid unguents, as lard, white wax, spermaceti, or beef mar- row; or on liquid unguents, as sweet, olive, cocoanut, or other oil, espe- cially castor oil, which is thought to be a specific for promoting the growth of the hair; and diluted with various vehicles, as alcohol, eau de HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES cologne, rose water, distilled water, and the like. Jamaica rum, with or without the oil of bay, and sherry- wine are thought to have tonic prop- erties. And various cleansing agents, as borax and ammonia, are frequent- ly added. All of these preparations may be perfumed with the various es- sential oils according to taste. They require only mixing. Hence it is suf- ficient to give the formulas in the following table. The ingredients should be shaken well before using and applied daily, being well rubbed into the roots of the hair untU it stops falling out, or is otherwise in a satisfactory condition. The following is an especially rec- ommended recipe: put in a glass bot- tle 8 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol; add J ounce of glycerin, 8 grains of sulphate of quinine, IJ grains of tincture cantharides, 2J drams of tincture rhotany, and i ounce of es- sence of lavender. Mix and shake well before using. HAIR TONICS, INVIGORATORS, AND RESTORATIVES n Lard White Wax Castor Oil.. Glycerin . . . Sweet Oil. . Aromatic Sp. Am . Aqua Am.. Tine, of Arnica. . Tine, of Canthar- ides Ving. of Canthar- ides Capsicum . Carb. Am.. Cinchona Bark.... Black Tea. Tannic Acid Alcohol... . Bay Rmn. Sherry Wine.... Water Balsam of Tolu.... Oil of Ber- gamot . . Eau de Cologne. Oil of Lav- ender . . . Oil of - Cloves,. . Tine, of Myrrh. . Oil of Rose Oil of Rose- mary. . . Thyme (white) . 4az, 2oz. 2 oz. Idr. ioz. 2 dr. 1 oz. 3oz. 4 dr. 2 dr. ioz. ioz. Iqt, 1 oz. Ipt. 8oz 3oz ipt. |pt. 2 dr. 30 d. idr, idr. 30 m 10 m, lipt. 3oz 10 m. 15 dr. ioz. i oz. ipt. Ipt. 1 oz. J dr. 7ioz. i oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. Iqt. i oz. i oz. Ioz. ioz. Ipt. 2pt. 1 oz. 2 dr. Idr. 3oz. idr. 1 oz. goz. Ioz. Ipt. Ioz. Ipt, Iqt. 3oz. i oz. 2oz. 1 qt. i oz. i oz. HAIRDEESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 491 Compounding Hair Tonics. — In compounding the various hair tonics in the preceding table the solids, as black tea, bay leaves, and the like, must be boiled fifteen or twenty min- utes to produce an infusion, and then strained through a linen cloth. Cin- chona bark and jaborandi should be first reduced in a mortar to a fine powder before boiling. Solid un- guents must be melted with gentle heat, oils cut in alcohol or other spir- its, and remedial agents added while the mixture is still hot enough to dis- solve them readily. The whole should then be removed from the fire, thor- oughly mixed by beating with an egg beater or otherwise, and strained through a linen cloth to remove the dregs. The essential oils and other volatile perfumes, if any, should be reserved until the liquor is nearly cold, to prevent loss by evaporation. HAIB OILS TTse of Hair Oils. — The natural lus- ter of the hair is often destroyed by the excessive use of hair oils and similar preparations. The sebaceous glands whicTi secrete an oily sub- stance are attached closely to the roots of the hair, and normally sup- ply it with sufficient oily matter to keep it in good condition. To pro- mote the activity of these glands and to distribute the natural oil evenly to the extremities of the hair is one of the principal objects of brushing. This is why a person whose hair is naturally too oily should refrain from brushing the hair more than is necessary for cleanliness. A multi- tude of hair oils and similar prepa- rations are on the market, and va- rious preposterous claims are set forth by their venders. Many of these contain minerals and other in- jurious ingredients, and none of them are equal to the simple preparations which may be compounded at home frorii the following recipes. We ear- nestly advise against the use of any preparation the ingredients .of which are kept a secret, and the quality and condition of which cannot' be definitely ascertained by the user. The hair is liable to certain abnor- mal conditions, as premature gray- ness, falling out, dryness and harsh- ness caused by the absence of its natural oils, and partial or total baldness. Certain special methods of treatment and remedial agents may properly be employed in such cases, and recipes for compounding these are given below. Hair Oils. — Preparations recom- mended to replace the natural oil of the hair when that is, for any reason, deficient, are based upon various fixed oils, with the addition of essen- tial oils as perfumes and various remedial agents. The best quality of hair oil is, perhaps, that based on the oil of ben (which is colorless, odorless, does not become rancid, and therefore requires less perfimie than others), olive oil, the oil of sweet alm- onds, and castor oil. Cotton-seed oil is employed for the cheaper va- rieties. As specific remedial agents they frequently contain cantharides. Alcohol and other spirits are used to cut oils, and also as preserva- tives. Bear's grease was formerly in high approval for this purpose, but mar- row oil from beef marrow is equally good and much less expensive, be- sides being free from the objection- able odor of bear's grease. In fact, the latter is not usually obtainable, as substances sold under that name are largely diluted with various other animal fats. These preparations re- quire only mixing and the addition of a few drops of essential oil or other perfumes according to taste. The ex- tent to which they should be used will, of course, depend upon the con- dition of the hair and the tastes and preferences of the individual. Their principal use is in cases of unusual dryness or harshness of the hair, or when the natural oil of the hair has been temporarily removed by sham- pooing. To Compound Hair Oils. — Oils pre- scribed in these compounds should be 492 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES HAIR OILS Beef Manow OUof Ben Castor OU CocoanutOil C!otton-seed Oil^ . . Olive Oa Tine, of Gantharides . . . Vinegar of Cantharidea. . . . Glycerin Alcohol OU of Bereamot . . '* Cinoamon. . " Citionella. . " Civet " Gloves " Fennel " Jasmine.. . . " Lavender . . '* Myrbane . . . '* Nutmeg . . . " Origanum.. . " Rose " Rosemary . . " Sassafras. . . " Thyme Iqt, i oz, 15 oz. 2oz. 2oz. 20 dr. 2 dr. 1 pt. 3gr. 3oz. 3d. 1 gal. i oz. 1 oz. Joz. 6ipt. lipt. ^oz, i oz. Ipt. Ipt. 1 gal. i oz. 2}oz. i oz. i oz. i oz. i oz. 1 m. 6d. 12 d. i oz. Ipt. Ipt. 10 d. lib. 1 m. lid. Ipt. 10 m. 1 qt. ipt. i oz. i oz. first melted together with gentle heat. Next add coloring matter, if any is desired. Now put in remedial agents, add spirits, if any, mix whUe warm, and allow to cool before adding per- fumes. To Color Hair Oil. — Any desired color may be imparted to oUs for the hair by treating the fixed oil used as a base before the other ingredients are added. To accomplish this the olive, cotton-seed, or other oil which is used in the largest quantity in the mixture should be warmed with gen- tle heat, the coloring matter added, and the whole simmered without boil- ing, until the desired color or a little stronger tint is obtained. This may require from one to two hours. The . oil should then be poured into a closed vessel and kept in a warm place for a day or two so that it may be evenly tinged with color. Finally it should be warmed and strained through coarse linen to remove the dregs and to give it brilliancy and luster. For red, pink, or rose, use alkanet root — about 2 drams to a pint. The trouble of straining the oil may be avoided by putting the alkanet root in a muslin bag and suspending it in the oU, but the former method is to be preferred. For yellow or orange, use a little annotto or palm oU. For green, use a little green parsley, or lavender in the same manner, or dissolve 3 or 3 drams of gum guaia- cum in each pint of oil as above di- rected. Perfumes for Hair Oils. — Instead of taking the trouble to measure the exact quantities of different perfumes directed to be used in various recipes, many persons select a particular per- fume for their own use, or blend two or more essential oils to produce an individual perfume suited to their taste. The combinations of essential HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 493 oils that may be made up are, of course, coimtless; but the ones rec- ommended elsewhere -will serve as suggestions to those interested. An ounce or two of any of these per- fumes added to a pint of rectified spirits produces an agreeable per- fume or "cologne" for personal use. HAIB STES Dyeing as a means of changing the normal color of the hair is now very little resorted to, except by a small number of thoughtless girls and wom- en who are misled by ignorant or in- terested persons. This practice is regarded by all intelligent persons as an unmistakable mark of vulgarity. Even the young men themselves, who are supposed, if any are, to be de- ceived and attracted by this process, have coined the expression " chemical blonde " and " peroxide blonde " to define a woman who has been deluded into following this silly fad, and boast themselves able to recognize such an individual at sight. There is more justification for the use of hair dyes in case of premature grayness and especially in those pe- culiar cases where irregular patches of gray hair make their appearance. The causes of these conditions are not fully imderstood. It is well known that the hair may turn gray suddenly as a consequence of extreme emotion, fright, pain, and the like. Patches of gray hair are sometimes , attributed to fungous growths at the roots. Even in these cases, however, it is usually better to avoid taking a plunge into the unknown. The diffi- culties connected with dyeing the hair are many, and the injurious consequences are inevitable. Such a substance as a harmless hair dye is not known, aU claims to the contrary notwithstanding. Neither is it possi- ble to deceive anyone. The natural color of the hair is subtly blended by nature with the tints and shades of the complexion, and any change in the color of the hair will produce an unnatural disparity which the' prac- ticed eye readily detects. Men might perhaps be deceived, but women never. And the man or woman who adopts the use of hair dyes speedily becomes the subject of more or less invidious gossip and ridicule. The practice is usually begun with the idea that a. single application will be sufficient. This is not the case. The hair grows at the rate of about one twentieth of an inch each day; hence in a few days a new growth appears and a fresh application of the dye becomes necessary. Meantime the dye has injured the hair and in many cases the scalp, brain, and nervous system. All preparations, of lead, silver, and other mineral substances are distinctly and often fatally inju- rious. We have excluded from this book all preparations of this char- acter, but in deference to the wishes of those who have a legitimate reason for wishing to darken the color of the hair, we give a number of recipes which are as efficacious as any that can be recommended with safety. Hair Dyes. — A careful examination of more than 100 counted recipes for hair dyes recommended in otherwise reputable books of household recipes discloses none which do not contain injurious mineral substances, except those we give below. Recent chemical analysis of widely advertised hair dyes and washes for bleaching, darkening, or otherwise changing the color of the hair dis- closes the presence of these mineral agents in practically every instance, notwithstanding the fact that in all cases the proprietors announce that the preparations are " harmless." Among the injurious substances rec- ommended are the following: Nitric, muriatic, and sulphuric acids; bismuth; lead, as litharge and the acetate or sugar of lead, etc.; antimony, silver (usually the ni- trate), potassium, baryta, iron, tin, copper, etc. These metals are rec- ommended in the form of various salts, as sulphates, acetates, chlorides, and the like. They are each and all 494 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES vicious in principle and injurious in practice, and those who knowingly or unknowingly recommend them should be regarded with suspicion. To Prevent Gray Hair. — A pre- ventive against grayness of the hair has already been mentioned, i. e., the yolk of egg. Preparations containing neat's-foot oil are also beneficial for darkening the hair. The action of hair dyes in pomades is necessarily slow, and they must be used daily or frequently until the proper results have been secured. Compounds con- taining vegetable ingredients are bet- ter than those containing mineral ones. Among materials which are relatively harmless are stains from walnut shells and green walnuts, which gradually dye light hair to dark-brown shades. These have to be used constantly, as the color is not durable. These stains cannot be used in the form of pomades. Henna and indigo powders produce various shades from yellow to dark brown, and other compounds and substances are mentioned below. " Chemical blondes " wash the hair with greatly diluted hydrogen peroxide. When dyes are applied to the hair it should first be thoroughly cleansed of its natural oils and other foreign sub- stances. This may be done by wash- ing the hair with a mixture contain- ing one fourth part of chloroform and three fourths of alcohol. Gloves should be worn, and the dye worked into the hair with a comb and a clean toothbrush. Or mix 1 part of bay rum, 3 parts of neat's-foot oil, and 1 part of French brandy by measure. Use this as a hair wash daily. Shake well be- fore applying. Or into 1 gallon of new milk put 2 quarts of the green tendrils of the grapevine. Add 2 pounds of honey and a handful of rosemary. Simmer slowly until the bulk is reduced about one half. Strain through a linen cloth and apply to the hair fre- quently. An excess of lime in the system is said to have a tendency to make the hair brittle and cause it to split and crack. This, by admitting air to the hair, is the most common cause of grayness. Hence hard water for drinking purposes should be avoided, or softened by means elsewhere rec- onmiended. Walnut Hair Dye. — Press the juice from the bark or shells of green wal- nuts. Add a small quantity of recti- fied alcohol and a little allspice or a few cloves. Let the mixture stand for a week or ten days and shake occa- sionally. Filter through a Unen cloth and add a small amount of common salt as a preservative. Keep in a cool, dark place. Yellow Hair Dye. — BoU 1 or 3 ounces of pure annotto in 1 pint of soft or distilled water, adding a pinch of baking soda. This gives the hair a golden yellow, which, however, va- ries according to its strength and the original color of the hair. Washing the hair in a solution of alum water deepens the color. The application of a solution of lemon juice or vinegar after the use of this dye reddens the hair or gives it an orange color. Black or Brown Hair Dye. — Boil 2 ountes of black tea in 1 gallon of wa- ter. Strain through a linen cloth. Add 2 or 3 ounces of glycerin, i ounce of tincture of cantharides, and 1 quart of bay rum. Let the mixture stand 48 hours, shaking occasionally, and perfume with any essential oil preferred. Black Hair Dye. — ^Mix juice of green walnuts as above described with neat's-foot oil, using about 1 part of the oil to 4 parts of walnut juice ac- cording to the amount of natural oil present in the hair. B,ed Hair Dye. — ^Make a strong de- coction of safilowers or of alkanet by boiling either in water to which a small amount of baking soda has been added. This gives the hair a bright- red or reddish-yellow color, accord- ing to its strength. When the hair is dry after this application, wash with a solution of lemon juice or vinegar mixed with an equal quantity of water. HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 495 Or, to darken red hair, mix 1 dram each of oil of nutmeg and rosemary, 1 ounce of castor oil, 2 drams of tinc- ture of cantharides, and 8 ounces of French brandy. Work a teaspoonful or more of this Into the hair each day with a moderately stiff brush, brush- ing 12 to 30 minutes. OTHEB HAIB TOPICS Superfluous Hair. — There is no known method which Is entirely sat- isfactory for removing superfluous hairs. Among the various methods recommended are shaving, plucking out the hairs with tweezers, the use of the electric needle, and various de- pilatories. The active principle in these compounds is usually chloride of lime, quicklime, or sulphide of ar-' senic. These cause the hair shafts to fall out, but do not affect the root of the hair, and hence must be frequent- ly repeated. These substances are strong irritants and unless handled intelligently may create ugly ulcers. Shaving stimulates the growth of the hair and by thickening it in- creases the discoloration caused by the ends of the hair shafts showing through the skin. Plucking the hairs perseverlngly by the roots, the skin having been previously softened and prepared by the application of a suitable toilet emulsion, is perhaps the most satisfactory method. A competent operator supplied with the proper apparatus can re- move superfluous hair permanently by means of the electric needle. The electrode from the positive pole of the battery Is attached to the back of the patient's neck or other convenient spot. A three-cornered electric nee- dle with sharp cutting edges is at- tached to the negative pole of the battery. This is inserted into the skin, alongside the hair, care being taken not to penetrate too deeply. When the current is applied the nee- dle becomes hot and causes bubbles of froth to appear at the point where it is inserted. The needle is then turned so that the sharp corners scrape the adjacent surfaces, and the process is continued until the hair is loosened and destroyed. The result- ing scar is so slight as to be hardly noticeable, and if the operation is properly conducted the results are sure and permanent. The following are standard recipes for depilatories. These are severe remedies, and should be employed only with caution and due regard to what has been said above. Spread equal quantities of galba- num and pitch plaster on a piece of soft chamois leather. Lay it smooth- ly on the superfluous hair and let it remain three or four minutes. It may then be pulled off, hair and all. The inflamed skin may then be rubbed with olive oil. Or pulverize finely in a mortar 1 ounce of fresh limestone and 1 dram of pure potassa. Soak the parts for 10 minutes in warm water, so as to soften the superfluous hairs. Form a paste of thie above powder with warm water, apply with a brush, and re- move after 5 or 6 minutes or as soon as the skin begins to be Inflamed. To remove this paste, wash it away with vinegar. This softens the skin and neutralizes the alkali. Or mix equal quantities of sul- phuret of calcium and quicklime pul- verized to a fine powder. Apply pre- cisely as for the preceding. The action is quicker. Hence it should be removed after two or three minutes in the same manner as the last. To Curl the Hair. — Preparations recommended for curling the hair are usually based upon various more or less adhesive substances, as gum ara- ble, quince mucilage, beeswax, sper- maceti, and the like, mixed with va- rious oils and diluted with alcohol or water. They may be perfumed ac- cording to taste. Specific curling pr9perties are claimed for beeswax, oU of origanum, mastic, and carbo- nate of potassium. It is also said that when the hair is clipped, as is sometimes done with children or after a serious illness, if the head is shaved "against the 496 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES grain " the hair will come in curly or wavy. The use of the egg shampoo elsewhere recommended also has the same tendency. The following recipes are recom- mended: Put in a double boUer 1 ounce of oil of sweet almonds, 1 dram of sper- maceti, wWte wax, or beeswax, and dissolve with very gentle heat. Re- move from the fire, stir in 3 drams of tincture of mastic. Bottle and cork tightly until wanted. Apply a small quantity and arrange the hair loosely. This is a French preparation and a commercial article of considerable reputation. Or mix 13 ounces of olive oil, 1 dram of origanum, and 1 dram of oil of rosemary. Bottle and cork tightly untU wanted. Apply every other day. Or melt a piece of white beeswax about the size of a hickory nut in 1 ounce of olive oil, and perfume with a few drops of oil of neroli. This is simple and efpective. Or beat up the yolk of an egg, rub it into the hair, and let dry. Rinse off with clear warm water and apply a little bandoline or pomade when arranging the curls. To Compound Curling Fluids. — Put the above solids or oils in a saucepan and simmer with gentle heat. When solids are melted or oil is well warmed, add other ingredients, except perfume. Strain, cool, and add perfume when nearly cold. Hair Powders. — The basis of pow- ders for the hair was formerly wheat starch, but potato farina is now more commonly used, as it is whiter and more lustrous. This is the ordinary plain hair powder of commerce, to which may be added for a black pow- der powdered charcoal or ivory black, or, for a sparkling effect, white frost- ing. Various perfumes are used ac- cording to taste. These may be used as a dry powder in the form of sa- chet, or they may be dropped on loaf sugar, which is afterwards pulverized in a mortar. The following preparations are rec- ommended ; Mix and sift together through a fine hair or other sieve 8 ounces of pow- dered wheat bran and 1 ounce of powdered orris root. Or mix 8 ounces of starch powder with 2 ounces of rose sachet. Or, for musk hair powder, mix 1 scruple of musk with 3 pounds of wheat starch or farina. Or mix 12 ounces of starch or fa- rina with 3 ounces of powdered am- bergris; or 12 ounces of starch or farina with 3 ounces of violet sachet. Or, for a blond hair powder, mix 4 ounces each of powdered starch or farina and powdered orris root; add 1 ounce of powdered yellow ocher. Or, for a black hair powder, mix 4 ounces each of powdered starch or farina and powdered orris root, and add i ounce each of powdered char- coal and ivory black. Or, for a sparkling effect, grind white frostings to a powder in a mortar. Compounding Hair Powders. — These powders are merely mechani- cal mixtures. The ingredients should be thoroughly mixed in a mortar or other suitable receptacle, or sifted through a fine hair or vrire sieve. TKE BEABD, STTSTACHE, AND SHAVING Care of the Beard. — Unless prop- erly cared for a full beard may seri- ously interfere with cleanliness. The beard should be frequently washed with soap, thoroughly dried, and treated with some simple prepara- tion. The object of care of the beard, as in the case of the hair, is to keep it clean and to preserve its normal luster. Lotions which have alcohol or other spirits as a base may be used once or twice a week to cleanse the beard of oily or fatty ma- terials that may have accumulated, and to clean the skin. These may be applied with a wash cloth and the beard afterwards rubbed dry with a towel. Frequent cutting or shaving of the beard has a tendency to make the individual hairs thick and short. HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 497 It does not Increase their number. Singeing is harmful unless the hair is treated with oil or grease. Other- wise singeing tends to split the hair at the ends and to make it dry and brittle. Lanolin soap is perhaps the best soap for use on the hair and beard. How to Kaise a Mustache. — Stim- ulate the circulation by the applica- tion of hot towels, followed by rub- bing briskly with a. rough towel, and apply one of the following mix- tures: Alcohol, i pint; castor oil, J dram; tincture of cantharides, 1 ounce. Perfume with 20 to 40 drops of any of the essential oils, as cloves or ber- gamot, and 1 ounce of cologne or other essence. Or dissolve in 5 ounces of alcohol 1 dram of compound tincture of ben- zoin, 1 dram of tincture of Spanish flies, and 3 ounces of castor oil, and perfume with 10 to 20 drops of any of the essential oUs. Do not use this mixture too frequently as it may in- flame the skin. Or melt with gentle heat 1 ounce of white wax or spermaceti, and stir in while hot IS drops of saturated tincture of cantharides. Remove from the flre, and when nearly cool perfume with 10 or 12 drops of any of the essential oUs. This is a pow- erful stimulant, but must not be em- ployed oftener than once or twice a week, as otherwise it may inflame the skin. Mustache Pomade. — Melt 4 ounces of white wax, and add 3 ounces of pure white vaseline and J ounce of Canada balsam. When nearly cold add about 30 drops of any essential oil or mixture according to taste. For coloring matters, see under " Hair Oils." Or dissolve J pound of white wax, J pound of lanolin soap, J pound of gvaa arable, and 4 pint of rose water. Melt and mix all together with gen- tle heat, and when cool perfume by adding 12 to 20 drops of essential oils according to taste. Color as rec- ommended under " Hair Oils." Shaving. — Those who shave should make it a practice to do so daily, or at least every other day. Some men complain that tMs practice makes the skin sore, but this will not be the case if a good razor is used, if it is kept in good order, and if the razor strokes are always in the same direc- tion, never against the grain of the beard. The use of a good lotion after shaving is another preventive of soreness. A good toilet soap for shaving is indispensable. Shaving sticks or cream which can be rubbed on the face without the use of the shaving miig are a great conveni- ence, especially to those who travel. It should be borne in mind that the skin and hair absorb warm water freely, and swell and soften under its influence, and that this effect is greatly promoted by the use of soap. The more time spent in softening the face by the application of lather the better. The razor should be dipped in hot water before using. Safety Bazors. — The modern cus- tom of using safety razors is most commendable. These convenient lit- tle implements have now been so per- fected as to give entire satisfaction. A number of separate blades are sold with each razor, and additional blades can be had at a very, low price. These blades can be stropped by means of a special device, or re- turned by mail to the manufacturer to be honed, or thrown away when they become dulled by use. T^he lux- ury of having a set of seven razors — one for each day in the week — ^has often been suggested in books and otherwise to persons who have felt that they were hardly able to afford it. But the safety razor is a means of bringing this luxury within the reach of all. It is always ready without honing or stropping, can be used without the best of light, is en- tirely safe, is economical, and has made a multitude of friends for it- self within recent years. Millions of these little implements are being manufactured, and the problems of how to get a good razor and how to 498 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES keep it in good condition have there- by been greatly simplified. It is ad- visable to buy only the best-known make of safety razor, patronizing the makers who advertise most extensive- ly in leading periodicals, so as to in- sure obtaining a thoroughly satisfac- tory article. To Strop Bazors. — Comparatively few persons seem to imderstand the theory of stropping a razor. The cutting edge of a razor should be in the form of a V, the sides of the V being perfectly flat and not roimd. The object of honing to produce this angle, and that of stropping, is to keep the edge perfect in overcoming Its tendency to become round as a result of wear. The strop, therefore, should be held in such a way that the leather wUl bear with equal pressure on every part of the straight sides of the V which terminates in the edge. Barbers are able by constant prac- tice to hold a loose strop in such » way as to accomplish this purpose with little apparent effort, but nov- ices are very apt to allow the strop to move and to strike it with the ra- zor in such a way as to round the edge, and do more harm by strop- ping than good. Hence a novice will usually accomplish the best results by' means of a strop glued flat on a piece of wood. The razor should be stropped carefully both before and after using until it will cut a hair held loosely in the fingers, and before it is put away in its case it should be wiped dry with a clean, dry towel. If any moisture is left on the edge the steel will rust and may be ruined. Much of the satisfaction of the use of an ordinary razor depends upon the strop and its condition. If the strop is purchased, only the best quality should be obtained, and it is better to prepare a paste for the' strop than to buy a preparation for this purpose, as many of those adver- tised for sale are entirely unreliable. Razor Strop. — A good razor strop may be made at home by anyone having a little ingenuity which will give at least as good satisfaction as the purchased article. Take a piece of hard wood about 15 inches long, IJ inches wide, and 4 inch tliick. Al- low 3 inches or more for handle. Se- lect a piece of horsehide or calfskin the width of the wood, and notch the wood to the depth of the leather at about i inch from the handle, so that the leather can be set in flush with the surface of the wood. Attach a piece of canvas to the other side, and the strop is done. The razor should be stropped first on the canvas and afterwards on the leather. To Keep a Bazor Strop in Order. — Various methods of keeping a strop in order are recommended. Fine mutton taUow or a few drops of sweet oil rubbed into the surface of the strop and a little very finely powdered emery dusted over the sur- face is perhaps the most satisfactory dressing. The snuffings of candle wicks in place of the emery are also recommended. Other recipes for ra- zor paste are suggested below. Preparations for Razor Strops. — The articles used for giving an edge to a razor are flour of emery, ground coke, and oxide of tin or prepared putty. Any of the following will be found more satisfactory than most preparations on sale, and a great deal cheaper: Mix fine flour of emery with mut- ton taUow or white wax or beeswax. If the emery is not fine enough, pound and grind it in a mortar. Put the whole into a large open-mouthed bottle, fiU it two thirds full of water, cork, and shake. Allow it to come to rest, and when the coarser particles have fallen to the bottom, turn off the water with the finer particles into a shallow pan. When the water has evaporated, the emery dust remain- ing will be found of suitable fineness. Or collect the grit from a fine grindstone as it gathers in the form of paste on the blade of an ax or scythe. Shake in water, and treat as above suggested for emery. If the quality of the grindstone is suitable, this will prove an excellent razor paste. HAIRDRESSING BOtH FOR MElSr AND WOMEN 499 Or mix 1 ounce of levigated oxide of tin or prepared putty with a satu- rated solution of oxalic acid to form a thick paste. If convenient, add 30 grains of gum arable dissolved in water. Rub tUs composition evenly over the strop and let it dry. Damp- en slightly before using. Oxalic acid has a strong affinity for iron, which is, of course, increased by moisture, and very slight friction with this preparation will give a razor a good edge. Or coke prepared as above recom- mended for emery is said to be the true " diamond dust " for sharpen- ing purposes. The above prepara- tions, the materials of which cost practically nothing, are often sold at from twenty-five to fifty cents a box. Or melt togethei; equal parts of good tallow and lard, thicken with finely powdered charcoal, make into cakes, wrap in tinfoil, and sell for ten cents. To color red and to thick- en, use princess metallic, such as painters use. To improve the quality, get a little olive oil and thicken it with the me- tallic in one box. In another box put a little of the oil and thicken with charcoal. Put the red on one side of the strop and the black on the other side. First strop on the black side, then finish on the red side. Barber's Itch. — This disease is sup- posed to be caused by a microscopic fimgus, the trichophyton. The symp- toms are the appearance of small red pimples with yellow tops, each of which is pierced by a hair. The dis- ease often takes a chronic form and sometimes causes the skin to become hard and covered with crusts. There is another type which is not caused by the presence of the trichophyton, but it is difficult to tell one from the other. It is desirable in this disease to keep the beard shaved, wash thor- oughly with soap, and use simple ointments and soothing solutions. The disease is very obstinate, and it is always advisable to consult a phy- sician. lewis's Toilet Water for Shav- ing. — The' following is recommended as a cheap and agreeable toilet water to use as a face wash after shaving: Fill any size bottle you wish with 95 per cent alcohol, and add as much boracic acid as the alcohol will cut, usually about IS per cent. If a little of the boracic acid is not dissolved and settles at the bottom of the mix- ture, it will not do any harm. Add a few drops of any of the essential oils, or perfume with cologne or otherwise according to taste. This mixture is not only soothing and refreshing, but it also assists in healing any local ir- ritation caused by shaving. It is es- pecially useful to those who shave every day. TOILET FBEFABATIONS FOB MEIT Shaving Creams. — The base of creams, pastes, or soap for shaving is usually a good, hard white castile or other soap mixed with white wax or spermaceti, and with the addition of almond, olive, etc., or palm oil, honey, and various cosmetics, as benzoin, glycerin, etc. Substances having cleansing properties, as car- bonate potassa and borax, are some- times included. Alcohol or other spirits are employed to cut the oils, and various perfumes are added later. To Compound Shaving Creams. — These compounds are all prepared by dissolving the solids with gentle heat in a double boiler, adding the soap in shavings, stirring in the almond oil and various remedial agents while hot, and when nearly cold adding volatile substances, such as spirits of turpentine, and any of the essential oils to perfume according to taste. Solid soaps used as a base of these compounds should be exposed to the air until dry, then reduced to fine shavings or powder. Or, if alcohol is used, the soap may first be cut in the alcohol. The whole mixture, after being removed from the fire, should be thoroughly beaten with an egg beater or otherwise until it has a 500 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES SHAVING CREAMS 6 O 1 i 1 S s n a 1 1 g O White Wax.. i oz. Idr. 2oz. i oz. Spennaceti.. . ioz. ioz. i oz. Hard White Soap 3oz. 2o2. 3 1b. 3 1b. 2oz. 2oz. 2oz. 2oz. 2oz. 3 lb. Castili Soap. lib. 4 oz. 1 OZ. 4 oz. lib. Soap Jelly.. . lib. 4oz. 3oz. Almond OU. . ioz. 2oz. i oz. Olive Oil 1 oz. 2oz. PahnOil lib. Honey Ioz. 4oz. Ioz. Alcohol 8oz. lipt. Rose Water... 4oz. q. s. 12 oz. Iqt. 4oz. 1 oz. q. s. q. o. q. =. 12 oz. Sal. Soda 1 oz. 2 dr. 1 oz. 2oz. Garb. Potassa Idr. Sp. Turp IgUI 1 oz. Beef's GaU... ipt. Any Essen- tial Oil 10 m. 120 m. q. s. 20 m. 30 m. 10 m. 10 m. 18 m. 100 m. perfectly smooth and uniform consist- ency. A small quantity of any of these shaving creams may be rubbed on the face and worked up to a lather with a wet shaving brush. If properly prepared they vriU give a good lather with either hot or cold water, that wiU not dry during the time required for shaving. Bay Kum. — This fragrant liquid is obtained by distilling with rum the leaves of a number of large trees of the myrtle family, growing in Ja- maica and the West Indian islands. It is not only very refreshing but it acts as a tonic and tends to prevent taking cold. Bay rum may be pre- pared from the oil of bay diluted with rum or other spirit, and with the addition of various cosmetics and perfumes as desired. For a cheap bay rum, take J pound of carbonated magnesia in lumps, and pour the spirit on it drop by drop until it is all saturated. Now crush the lumps on a marble slab or a piece of clean zinc with a rolling pin or otherwise. Put this in a filter and pour Over equal parts of water and alcohol until the desired quan- tity and strength of bay rirai is ob- tained. Or dissolve S cents' worth of pow- dered magnesia in 1 quart of SO per cent alcohol, and add 1 ounce of oil of bay. Put in a filter, bottle, and cork tightly until needed. Dilute with soft water as desired. Or add 6 ounces of extract of bay to 1 gallon of SO per cent alcohol. Or mix IJ fluid drams of oil of bay, i fluid dram of oil of pimento, J ounce of acetic ether, and 1 dram of Castile soap in shavings with 3 pints of alcohol. Add 3 pints of soft or distilled water. This is a standard preparation for barbers' use. Or, dissolve in J pint of 95 per cent alcohol J dram of oil of bay, 3 drops of oil of nutmeg, and J dram of oil of orange. Add 2 ounces of Jamaica rum and sufficient water to make of the whole 1 quart. To Compound Bay Bum. — These are for the most part simple mix- tures. Magnesia should be first dis- solved in soft water and the other in- gredients added. The solution may afterwards be filtered by means of filter paper or fine linen. It is desir- able, when convenient, to allow these mixtures to stand for two or three weeks before filtering. If they can. HAIRDRESSING BOTH FOR MEN AND WOMEN 501 be shaken occasionally during the period, so much the better. Bandoline. — These preparations are employed to adjust the hair and keep it in place. Hence they are based upon substances which have a slight- ly adhesive character, including gum tragacanth, paste of quince seed, isinglass, Irish moss, and the like. Bring to a boil in a double boiler i pint of soft or distilled water; stir In 1 tablespoonful of cold-drawn lin- seed oil, and boil for 5 minutes. Let cool, add any desired perfimie, and put in a glass fruit jar until required for use. Or place in a quart fruit jar IJ ounces of gum tragacanth, and add 1 quart of rose water. Let stand 2 or 3 days, shaking frequently, and squeeze through a coarse white linen cloth. Let stand 3 or 3 days more and repeat. Finally add 10 or 13 drops of attar of rose, and tint with an infusion of alkanet wood, cochi- neal, or other red coloring matter. Or boil i ounce of clean Irish moss in 1 quart of water until it thickens; add 4 ounces of 95 per cent alcohol as a preservative. Or boil i ounce of quince seed un- til it thickens. Strain through a piece of cheese cloth, put in a double boUer; add 1 pint of soft water, bring to a boil, and stir in 1 table- spoonful of linseed oil. Let boil 5 minutes, remove, and add 10 drops of the oil of bitter almonds or other essential oil to perfume. Brilliantine. — These preparations are employed to give luster to the hair and beard when the natural oils are deficient or are temporarily re- moved by shampooing. Put in a glass bottle 3 ounces of alcohol, 1 ounce of pure honey, and J oimce of glycerin. Shake well and perfume with any of the essential oils or essences. Or dissolve 4 ounce of castor oil in 2 ounces of cologne. Or mix equal parts of cologne and glycerin. Or dissolve 1 ounce of honey and 3 oimces of alcohol. Or put in a glass bottle 6 ounces of castor oil; add 3 ounces of 96 per cent alcohol, and J ounce of am- monia. Shake well and perfvime with any essential oil according to taste. This is the celebrated French " lustral." Compounding Brilliantine and Bandoline. — Such substances as gum tragacanth, quince seed, isinglass, and Irish moss may be dissolved by boiling in hot water until sufficiently thick. They should be allowed to stand on the dregs from twenty- four to forty-eight hours, squeezed through a coarse linen cloth, melted, and perfumed after cooling but be- fore they have finally set. Boil lin- seed oil in water for five or six min- utes. Perfume when cool. Melt Burgundy pitch with white wax, cool slightly, mix in the spirits, replace on the fire, and bring to a boil. Remove, and strain through linen. Eyebrows and Eyelashes. — In gen- eral the less attention paid to these features the better. The practice of attempting to deepen the color of the eyes by darkening the lids or lashes is a dangerous one, and many of the preparations advertised for sale for this purpose contain lead or other poisonous ingredients. Any preparation which is good for the hair is also good for the eyebrows and may be applied to them at the same time. A simple lotion consists of sulphate of quinine, 5 grains; alcohol, 1 ounce. Preparations containing cantharides are also of assistance. Clipping the eyelashes is, on the whole, a dangerous practice, as it tends to thicken them and cause them to become stiff like bristles. The presence of superfluous hairs causing the eyebrows to rim together caUs for remedies given elsewhere. A stick of India ink is perhaps the best method of darkening the eye- lashes if that is thought desirable. Or burnt cork is sometimes em- ployed. Or cloves charred to a crisp in an open flame. CHAPTER XIX THE TEETH THE TEETH— DENTEFBICES— THE BREATH— TOOTHACHE— TOOTH- ACHE REMEDIES. THE TEETH Good Teeth. — Modern dentistry has greatly assisted in causing tlie pub- lic to realize tiie value of a set of good teeth, but much still remains to be done in this direction. Medical inspectors in the public schools of large cities report that a very large percentage of school children have poor teeth due to the ignorance or neglect of parents. Good teeth are necessary to health, speech, and beauty. From the standpoint of health, it must be remembered that the process of digestion begins in the mouth. This fact is the basis of the system of hygiene known as Fletcherism. The originator of this system, after having become a chronic dyspeptic, cured himself at an advanced age by attention to two principles: never eating when not hungry, and chewing food untU all the taste is chewed out of it and it disappears without con- scious effort of swallowing. The im- portance of this last is due to the fact that the saliva of the mouth has the property of converting starchy foods into sugar, thus aiding diges- tion. And the further fact that food finely divided by proper chewing is more readily acted upon by the gas- tric juice of the stomach. Good teeth are, of course, necessary to good chewing. If any of the teeth are lost; part of the food is likely to be swal- lowed without being properly chewed, and the ill effects are no less certain because they are not always immedi- ately noticed or attributed to the true source. The teeth play an important part in pronunciation, and their loss often causes a difBculty in speech which, in the case of chUdren, at the age when they • are learning to pronounce their words, may have the effect of retard- ing the child's mental development. Apertures caused by the loss ot teeth, or irregularities due to the permanent teeth coming in unevenly, are life-long disfigurements. For all of these reasons, intelligent and painstaking attention to the teeth is perhaps the most important single subject in connection with the toilet. Bad Teeth. — ^Decayed teeth show- ing cavities in the crown, or having decayed roots, are not only painful, offensive in appearance and in con- taminating the breath, but frequently are the direct causes of serious dis- turbances of digestion. The tem- perature of the mouth is about 96° F. or considerably above that of ordi- nary summer weather. The humidity of the mouth is, of course, high. Under these conditions, experience teaches that fresh meat and other organic matter will decay very rap- idly. Hence, particles of food lodged in cavities or between the teeth, if not removed, decay and afford breed- ing places for the bacteria of filth diseases. These are swallowed with food and upon occasion of any irrita- tion of the digestive tract, find lodg- ment and give rise to indigestion and BQZ THE TEETH 503 other troubles. These substances also contaminate the breath and become highly offensive to others. So that absolute cleanliness is an imperative duty that everyone owes to himself and also to his neighbor. Moreover, if any of the teeth are unsound and painful the adjacent teeth are not likely to be used in the process of chewing, and the conse- quence is imperfect digestion. The remedy for these conditions is two- fold: personal cleanliness and other hygienic measures, and prompt treat- ment by a good dentist as soon as the first symptoms of decay appear. Structure of the Teeth. — The outer structure of the tooth consists of three parts: the root, which is con- tained in the bony substance of the jaw; the neck, which is contained in the gum, and the crown, which is the exposed portion. In the interior of each tooth is a cavity which contains the pulp, a pale-red soft substance composed of nerves and blood vessels. The surface of the root of the tooth is covered by a thin membrane called the periosteum, which, when the teeth decay, frequently becomes inflamed and is one of the causes of toothache. Infant's Teeth. — Fasten a bit of absorbent cotton on the point of an orange stick or a piece of soft pine wood. Dip it in a 5 per cent solu- tion of boric acid, and with this cleanse the mUk teeth of children as soon as they appear. Or wind a piece of cotton around the finger and, dip it in a S per cent solution of boric acid or a dilute, so- lution of listerine. As soon as the full set of milk teeth, consisting of twenty teeth, or five on each half of each jaw, have all come in, a soft toothbrush should be used daily. Otherwise the milk, which forms such an important part of a child's diet, will be deposited be- tween the teeth and become trans- formed into lactic acid. This tends to destroy the enamel and cause decay. Two important facts regarding children's teeth are often overlooked. and much mischief results. One is that the first permanent teeth usually appear about the sixth or seventh year. The other is that several of the milk teeth are retained until about the twelfth year. This over- lapping of the two sets of teeth makes early and constant care im- perative. The first permanent teeth must, of course, have attention if they are to be preserved, and the milk teeth that are retained must be kept in good order to insure proper digestion during the period of most rapid growth of the child. Teeth of Children. — One of the most common causes of trouble with the teeth in after life is the mistaken notion that children's teeth do not require very much attention because they will soon be lost and replaced by others. Childrtin, on the contrary, should be taught to clean their teeth at a very early age, partly because they will thus acquire a habit which it will afterwards be more difficult to teach them, but more especially because the lack of proper develop- ment or decay of the milk teeth has a direct effect upon the health of the child, and an indirect effect upon the permanent teeth themselves. The appearance of the milk teeth about the seventh month is a signal that the child should commence to have solid food and should no longer be fed exclusively on milk and other soft foods. And during the entire period when the milk teeth are com- ing in, children should be encouraged to .eat crackers and dry bread, and not allowed to discard the crusts. The resistance of coarse food in- creases the circulation of the blood and gives the necessary exercise to develop the gums and the jaw mus- cles that are necessary to proper chevring. All of this has a direct in- fluence in improving the quality of the permanent teeth. If the milk teeth show black spots or other evi- dence of decay, they should be at once treated, and filled, if necessary, with the same care as the permanent teeth. If they are suffered to decay. 504 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES the permanent teeth coming in their place will be likely to decay also. Care of the Teeth. — There are two cardinal rules in the care of the teeth: keep them clean and consult a good dentist. Few professions have arrived at a degree of proficiency equal to that of modern dentistry. In fact, the public does not generally realize what dentistry can and ought to do. The notion is far too preva- lent that the business of a dentist is to fill decayed teeth, or to pull them, and make' false teeth, crowns, or bridges to take their place. A very important part of the duty of a mod- ern dentist is to prevent the teeth from decaying. Hence it is most un- wise to postpone visiting a dentist until one's teeth commence to ache. On the contrary, a dentist should be consulted at least twice a year and oftener if necessary, and children, es- pecially, should be taken to a dentist quite frequently during the period when the milk teeth are being lost and the permanent teeth are coming in. An honest dentist will make no ex- orbitant charges or attempt to do work that is unnecessary. On the other hand, by keeping the teeth clean, filling smaU cavities when they first appear, correcting any malfor- mation of the teeth and giving advice as to suitable mouth washes and other treatment when abnormal conditions are present, a positive saving in fu- ture dentist's bills wiU be effected; toothache and the pain of pulling teeth and other dental work wUl be avoided, and the teeth themselves will be, as a rule, preserved intact with all of the attendant benefits. Tartar on the Teeth. — The accu- mulation of tartar in the form of a yellowish incrustation, which is usu- ally most plentiful on the inner side of the lower jaw, is almost universal. But the deposit is much more pro- nounced in some cases than in others. Tartar is not only objectionable in appearance, but also tends to push the gum away from the neck of the tooth, and thus expose the soft den- tine between the root and the harder enamel of the crown. In the course of years, the gimi will recede so far as to allow the tooth to fall out, even if it is kept perfectly clean and is thus protected from decay. The ac- cumulation of tartar cannot always be prevented by brushing the teeth, although the use of suitable tooth powders, pastes, or mouth washes will assist, but in all cases where the tartar is plentiful, the teeth should be thoroughly cleaned by a compe- tent dentist three or four times a year, and an astringent lotion, as a S per cent solution of chloride of zinc or a solution of alum in soft water, should be rubbed on the gums daily. Aside from the advice and services of a dentist, the teeth should be thor- oughly brushed and cleaned at least once a day, or better still when pos- sible after each meal, and especially before retiring at night. And the teeth of small children E^ould be cleaned for them before they are themselves old enough to form the habit of caring for them. Permanent Teeth are thirty-two in number, or eight on each half of each jaw. Two in the front center of the jaw are called incisors or cutting teeth, and appear in the eighth or ninth year. One, next in order, the canine or dog tooth, appears between the eleventh and fifteenth year. Two next, called premolars, appear be- tween the tenth and fifteenth year. Three last in the back part of the mouth are called molars, of which the first (as has already been mentioned) appears about the seventh year, the second between the thirteenth and sixteenth year, and the third, which is called the "wisdom" tooth, be- tween the eighteenth and twenty- sixth year. Care of the Permanent Teeth. — Chewing dry toast, crackers, hard bread or other coarse food, greatly assists in keeping the permanent teeth in good condition. But for the purpose of dislodging particles of food, removing tartar and other sub- THE TEETH 505 stances a good toothbrush is indis- pensable. A toothbrush having me- dium soft bristles is preferable to one having stiff bristles, which may- tend to injure or inflame the gum. The shape of the brush is not par- ticularly important, although the so- called "prophylactic" brush assists in dislodging food from the teeth in the back part of the mouth. What is more important is the manner in which the brush is handled. In ad- dition to the sidewise strokes, the brush should also be worked up and down so as to remove from between the teeth particles of food that would The Way the Brush is Handled." only be crowded in more tightly by rubbing back and forth. This is very important. The inner surface of the teeth should be brushed in the same manner, care being taken to cover, in brushing, every portion of the teeth that can be reached. The strokes of the brush should also cover the ad- jacent gums. This may cause them to bleed slightly at first, but in time they wUl harden and become strengthened. By promoting the cir- culation of blood, this will greatly improve the nutrition of the teeth and insure their permanency. Toothpicks. — Etiquette forbids the use of the toothpick in public. But a supply of quills or wooden tooth- picks of good quality should always be kept at hand at the toilet table. These should be used as frequently as possible after meals to remove particles of food that cannot be dis- lodged by the use of the brush. When, as sometimes happens, the formation of the teeth is such that a toothpick cannot be used to advan- tage, a piece of sUk thread, such as is used by dentists, can be procured at a drug store or dentist's ofSce. This will be found very useful for this purpose. After the use of the toothpick or thread, the mouth should be thoroughly rinsed, preferably with warm water, which has the prop- erty of dissolving foreign substances to, a greater extent than cold water would do. And, if possible, a good antiseptic mouth wa^h, such as per- oxide of hydrogen, should be used. Or use a strong solution of table salt in warm water. Care of the Toothbrush. — After using a toothbrush, rinse it carefully, wipe it dry on a clean towel and hang it up where it will be exposed to sun- ligh^ and a draught of air. Never keep a toothbrush in a, closed box or hang it up in a closet. Never lay down a wet toothbrush to dry, es- pecially on the back, as this allows the moisture to run along the bristles into the back of the brush, softens the glue with which they are fastened in, and causes them to decay and fall out. It is hardly necessary to say that no two persons should ever use the same toothbrush. DENTIFEICES This is a general term including aU tooth powders, pastes, and washes for the teeth. The principal ingredi- ents of these preparations are various substances in powdered form that are capable of exerting a gentle friction on the teeth and also have antacid, ab- sorbent, or other useful properties, as chalk, Armenian bole, cuttlefish bone, charcoal, orris root, and Peruvian bark. To these may be added mild alkalies, and other substances having deansing properties, as borax, bicar- bonate of soda, and castile soap; astringent substances as alum and tannic acid; and agreeable vehicles as powdered sugar, rock candy, honey, sirup, and sugar of milk. Any of these mixtures may be perfumed with a few drops of any of the essential oils or essences, or colored by the ad- dition of finely pulverized red coral, rose pink, cochineal, dragon's blood, or red Sanders for red; ocher for yel- low; indigo for blue or violet. Vari- 506 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVEEIES ous other substances having specific properties too numerous to mention may be added. Prepared Chalk is the most univer- sally popular ingredient in tooth powders, as it is cheap, safe, and ef- fective, and tends to neutralize any acids that may be present in the mouth. Bole is an earthy substance similar to clay, which is found in veins and fissures of basalt and other rocks in various parts of the world. It has a greasy feeling when rubbed between the fingers, and is slightly sticky on the tongue. There are several kinds of bole found in different localities, of which the Armenian bole has a red tint and is used in tooth powders to im- part that color and also because of its absorbent and astringent properties. Magnesia. — Carbonate of magne- sia or " magnesia alba " is a white powder which is valuable because of its absorbent qualities and its power to neutralize acids that may be pres- ent in the mouth. It is used in medi- cine for acid dyspepsia. Hence it is entirely safe and a very effective in- gredient in tooth powder. Charcoal is a form of carbon ob- tained by charring wood or by heat- ing it in close vessels. Charcoal va- ries according to the method by which it is produced. The best char- coal for toilet purposes is areca-nut charcoal, but this is expensive and often adulterated. Next best is the sort of charcoal used as an ingredi- ent of gunpowder made of hard, non- resinous wood, or soft wood such as wUlow and poplar, by roasting in iron cylinders. Charcoal has an ex- traordinary capacity for absorbing gases. It cannot be melted or dis- solved in acids, will not decay, and is not affected by ordinary tempera- tures. It is a very poor conductor of heat. On account of its property of absorbing gases, it is used in medi- cine in certain forms of dyspepsia, also to preserve flesh or sweeten it when tainted. As an ingredient of tooth powders, it tends to sweeten and purify the breath. Cnttleflsh Bone. — This substance is the shell of a moUusk of world-wide distribution. It is sold in powdered form under the name of "pounce" for tooth powder and other purposes. It has some value in neutralizing acids, but is less valuable for this purp'ose than chalk or magnesia. It is also harsher in its scouring effect, for which reason it is, in small quan- tities, a valuable ingredient in tooth powders. It must, however, be finely powdered and used vyith caution. Myrrh. — This is a reddish-brown brittle substance obtained from the juice of a small tree growing in Ara- bia and vicinity. It occurs in resi- nous lumps, has a fragrant odor, and a bitter aromatic taste. It has beea used for ages, on account of its fra- grant perfume, as an ingredient in incense, perfimie, and salve. It acts as a tonic on the mucous membranes and hence is much used in mouth washes to harden and strengthen the gums and is good for sore throat and canker. Cinchona Bark, or Beruvian Bark, is obtained from a fragrant evergreen tree growing in South America which produces the alkaloid quinine of so much value in medicine. Quinine is an indispensable tonic in the cure of intermittent fevers and debilitating diseases. It is used in medicine prin- cipally in the form of the sulphate. And the bark itself is much less used than formerly. The pulverized bark has valuable tonic and astringent properties. Iris or Orris Boot. — This substance is a pulverized root of the common species of lily known as the flower de luce which is cultivated in the neigh- borhood of Florence for this sub- stance. It is particularly valuable for its violet-scented perfume. Coral. — This substance is a carbo- nate of lime obtained by grinding up the hard skeleton of the coral polyp which produces the Coral Islands. In ground form it has a quality similar to chalk, but as an ingredient for tooth powder is valued principally for its color. THE TEETH sor Other Ingredients. — In addition to the standard recipes for dentifrices given in the following tables, a nvim- ber of simple remedies may be men- tioned which are always at hand. Salt water in strong solution is a •useful mouth wash, and dry salt may also be applied by means of a brush to cleanse the teeth. Borax is also useful and tends to remove the smell of tobacco and other unpleasant odors from the breath. Dissolve 2 to 4 oimces of bo- rax in a pint of hot water and flavor, if convenient, with half a teaspoon- ful of tincture of myrrh or spirits of camphor. Castile Soap, or other neutral hard white soap, is good for the teeth. It may be applied^ by rubbing the cake of soap with a wet toothbrush, which may afterwards be dipped into a scented tooth powder to cover the slightly unpleasant taste. But the taste of castUe soap is not objection- able to those who have become ac- customed to it. To Whiten the Teeth. — Salt com- bined with peroxide of hydrogen is a powerful bleach. Apply by wet- ting the brush with the pure peroxide and sprinkle with dry salt, but do not use this oftener than is neces- sary. Tooth powders containing charcoal assist in whitening the teeth. A lit- tle dry charcoal powder may be rubbed gently into the crevices be- tween the teeth on retiring at night, and brushed or rinsed out thoroughly in the morning. The use of bicarbo- nate of soda as a tooth powder has the same property. Mix 1 ounce of chloride of lime, 10 ounces of prepared chalk, i ounce of Peruvian bark, 1 teaspoonful of tinc- ture of myrrh. Use once a day until the teeth are sufficiently whitened. Afterwards use an ordinary tooth powder. The juice of the common straw- berry is said to be a natural denti- frice which has the property of dis- solving tartar and sweetening the breath. Or, to remove tartar, dip the brush in powdered magnesia. Tooth Powder. — A good . tooth powder is a very necessary toilet ar- ticle, as it not only increases the effi- ciency of the brush, but also makes the operation of cleansing the teeth more agreeable, and hence tends to strengthen the habit. Standard tooth powders are based mainly upon some carbonate having a slightly alkaline quality. But care must be taken not to use the stronger alkalies, as they tend to irritate the gums and mucuous surfaces of the mouth. Many of the tooth powders of commerce, especially the cheaper sorts, contain substances that if used with hard water produce free alkali. This may have a very injurious effect upon the gums. Hence it is much better to buy the ingredients and make up a tooth powder for yourself, or have a recipe made up for you by a local druggist. Thus you will know exactly what ingredients it contains. The powders used in tooth powders must be very finely pulverized and free from gritty particles. Such sub- stances as ground oyster shells, pum- ice, cuttlefish bone, cigar ashes, and the' like, unless ground very fine in- deed, are unnecessarily coarse and gritty. Tooth powders may be col- ored at wUl, as the coloring matter does not affect their efficiency one way or the other. The addition of some agreeable perfume, as the oil of wintergreen, sassafras, or the like, may have a decided advantage in making children and others take more kindly to the frequent use of tooth powder. A word of caution is especially needed against the use of commercial tooth powders that rap- idly remove tartar and quickly give the teeth a snowy whiteness. To ac- complish these results they contain strong acids that wiU injure the enamel and make the last state of the teeth much worse than the first. To Compound Tooth Powders. — If charcoal or cuttlefish bone are used, they should be reduced to a very fine powder in a mortar, and may 508 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES be improved by mixing witli water and allowing the coarser and heavier particles to settle. The finer parti- cles that settle more slowly may then be poured off without disturbing the sediment. The water may then be permitted to evaporate, thus leaving a resulting powder of the best quality. TOOTH POWDERS 73 u jl 1 1 Jl II 1 tB ■E o S 1 1 1 1 ■S 1 ■B O :il ■B O ■3(S 11 Bole 3oz. 2 dr. 1 oz. 2 dr. ioz. 1 part 4 parts 1 part 1 part Ipart 2oz. 6oz. 3oz. 2 dr. lioz. 3oz. lib. 8oz. 4oz. 4oz. 4oz. 1 lb. 1 lb. ilb. lib. Idr. i oz. lib. ilb. lib. 2 1b. 10 oz. 10 oz. 6oz. 1 oz. i oz. ilb. 4oz. idr. 4oz. 12 oz. 2oz. 2oz. 2oz. 8oz. 8oz. lib. ilb. 2ilb. 12 oz. 2 oz. IJdr. 3oz. 4oz. 4oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 6oz. 4oz. 2oz. 4 oz. 1 oz. loz. 2oz. 4oz. Chalk 4oz. Cuttlefish Bone Pulverized Sugar... Borax Garb, of Magnesia. . . Cream of Tartar Castile Soap Bicarbonate of Soda Pul. Camphor Sulphate Quinine. . . Myrrh 2 oz. 4 oz. Cassia Powder. Peruvian Bark Any Essential Oils. . Any Essences Hose Pink 2oz. 2oz. Idr. TOOTH PASTES 1 > 1 1 5 f 1 8 1 .1 a 3 1 1 i s -.3 r 1 1 a (^ a s 1 1 Honey(white) Chalk........ Charcoal Cuttlefish Bone Pow. Sugar... Castile Soap. . . Cream of Tar. . Bicar. of Soda. Burnt Alum . . Sal Ammoniac. Chlor. Potassa. Camphor Disulphate Quinine Tine. Opium. . Myrrh Orris Root Any Essential Oils Any Essences.. Drop Lake Rose Pink Red Coral Cochineal Alcohol q. s. 3oz. 2oz. loz. ioz. igal. 4 oz. 1 oz. loz. 2oz. 2oz. 3oz. 2oz. i oz. 1 oz. ioz. 8oz. 8oz. IJdr. IJdr. Soz. Idr. idr. 4oz. loz. idr. Idr. 3oz. 3 fl. dr. q. s. 1 oz. 1 oz. 4 dr. Idr. 2 dr. Soz. 2oz. 1 oz. 10 d. idr. 2fl.dr. q. s. 4 dr. 2 dr. 2 dr. 3 dr. Soz. 4oz. 2oz. lidr. lidr. q. s. 4oz. 1 oz. 3oz. 1 oz. 2 dr. loz. 2oz. eq.parts Idr. eq.parts loz. loz. 2oz. idr. q. s. ioz. 10 oz. 1 oz. 2oz. idr. 4oz. 1 oz. THE TEETH 609 Or, after the ingredients have been rubbed up together in the mortar as finely as possible, the whole may be rubbed through a very fine gauze sieve to remove the coarser particles. As tooth powders contain absorbent substances, they should be kept in tightly closed wide-mouthed bottles when not in use. Tooth Pastes. — ^Any of the ordi- nary tooth powders may be put up in the form of pastes by reducing tiiem to a very fine powder and mixing them with a little clarified honey or almond cream or simple sirup to a moderately stiff paste. Sufficient es- To compound tooth pastes, first rub up the dry materials to a very fine powder in a mortar, moisten slightly! with alcohol or perfumed toilet water, and add slowly enough honey or sirup to form a paste of the right consistency, beating aU the time with an egg beater or otherwise to thoroughly incorporate the materials. Or mix the mass on a piece of glass or marble or other smooth hard sur- face. Let stand twenty-four hours before sealing. mouth Washes. — The use of an antiseptic and scented mouth wash is very agreeable and is to be recom- WASHES FOR THE MOUTH AND GUMS 1 1 Pi 1 g *5 1 4a s ii i 1 I 1 1 o o Among the Israelites the cubit was divided into two spans, the si>ans into three palms, the Ealms into four digits, the order gf o^tutQ eing adhered to throughout. the United States, although its use is not compulsory in either of those countries. The standard units em- ployed by the United States Govern- ment at Washington are themselves corrected by reference to the interna- tional meter. Hence, the metric sys- tem is actually the ultimate standard in the United States. It is to be very much regretted that the use of the metric system has not become univer- sal. At present, it is employed by somewhat more than half the popula- tion of the civilized world. LIITEAB OB LONG U£AS1TBE linear Measure. — ^The standard of linear, or long measure, is the length of a pendulum that will vibrate in a vacuum, at the sea level in London, at 63° F., once in a second. Scientists have determined that such a pendu- lum is nearly 39.1393 inches in length ; fj of this is taken as a standard yard. The standard yard of the United States is a metiil bar kept at Wash- ington. It is identical with the Eng- lish imperial yard. Subdivisions and multiples of this are shown in the fol- lowing table: 12 inches 1 foot. 3 feet 1 yard. 5i yards 1 rod, pole, or perch. 40 poles 1 furlong. 8 furlongs 1 mile. 320 rods 1 mile. 1760 yards 1 mile. 5280 feet 1 mile. 3 miles 1 league. 69A miles 1 degree of a great circle of the earth The mile is commonly divided into halves, fourths, eighths, etc. The fur- long (% of a mile) is seldom used. A league is 3 miles, but its length is variable, for it is, strictly speak- ing, a nautical term, and should be 3 geographical miles, equal to 3.45 statute miles; but when used on land, 3 statute miles are said to be a league. The length of a degree of latitude varies; 69.16 miles is the average length, and is that adopted by the United States Coast Survey. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 613 less Common Linear Measnres. — Additional linear measures less com- monly used are the following: 48 hair's breadths 1 inch. 3 barley corns 1 inch. 3 inches 1 paJm. 4 inches 1 hand. IS inches 1 Bnglish cubit. 21.888 inches 1 Bible cubit. 2i feet 1 military pace. 3 feet 1 common pace. 3.28 feet 1 meter. 11 feet 1 great cubit. In biblical and other old measure- ments, the term span is sometimes used, which is a length of 9 inches. The sacred cubit of the Jews was 24.034 inches in length. The common cubit of the Jews was 21.704 inches in length. Horses are measured directly over the forefeet, and the standard of measure is 4 inches — called a hand. Subdivisions of the Inch. — Tool cutters and other machinists engaged in fine metal work, scientists, revenue officers, and some others, divide the inch decimally, i. e., into tenths, hun- dredths, etc. Carpenters and mechan- ics engaged in rough work divide the inch into eighths or sixteenths. The former custom of dividing the inch into twelve parts, called lines, has gone out of use. Following are equivalents of the decimal parts of a foot in inches: Decimal Fractions Decimal Fractions value of a foot value of a foot infect. in inches. in feet. in inches. .01041 .25 3 .02083 .3333 4 .03125 .4166 5 .04166 .5 6 .05208 .5833 7 .0625 1 .6666 8 .07291 .75 g .0833 1 .8333 10 .1666 2 .9166 11 Nautical Measure. — In addition to the above a distinct table of measure- ments is used by geographers and mariners as follows: 6 feet 1 fathom. 110 fathoms, or 660 feet. . . 1 furlong, 120 fathoms 1 cable's length. 6086.7 feet 1 nautical mfle. 3 nautical miles 1 league. 20 lea., or 60 naut. miles. 1 degree. 360 degrees The earth's cir- cumference = 24,865i miles nearly. The nautical mile is also called the geographical mile or for brevity the knot. It is 795f feet longer than the common mile. Cloth Measure. — Another mode of measurement formerly much used by merchants on the continent of Europe and in colonial times in this country is as follows: 2i inches 1 nail. 4 nails 1 quarter of a yd. 4 quarters 1 yard. 1 aunze 1} yard. Foreign Cloth Measure 2i quarters 1 ell Hamburg. 3 quarters 1 ell Flemish. 5 quarters 1 ell English. 6 quarters 1 ell French. 4:^ quarters 1 ell Scotch. An Amsterdam ell is equal to 26.796 inches. A Trieste ell is equal to 25.284 inches. A Brabant ell is equal to 27.116 inches. In measuring cloth, ribbon, etc., the width is not considered, and the yard is now usually divided into halves, fourths, eighths, and sixteenths. In the United States custom house the yard is divided into tenths and hun- dredths. Scales for Linear Measure. — The many occasions that a standard of linear measure is required suggest the utility of having always at hand a scale from which a yardstick or other measure can be constructed. Carpenters, mechanics, and farmers frequently make it a practice to carry a jointed yardstick in the pocket. It is convenient to glue a yard measure on the edge of a carpenter's bench or a sewing table, or to indicate the di- vision into inches or fractions of an inch by means of small brass brads driven in flush with the surface and rubbed to a polish with emery pa- per. Sailors not infrequently tattoo a yard measure on the outer side of the left arm beginning at the point of the little finger, the subdivisions being pricked into the skin in India ink. This device will be found useful to farmers, mechanics, and others. Builders, paper hangers, and others, engaged in the building trades, find a narrow steel measure, a rod or more in length, winding up in a suitable 614 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES circular case by means of a spring or crank, a very convenient contriv- ance. SQUABE OB STTFEBFICIAL UEASUBE Square Ueasnre. — Square or super- ficial measure is employed by carpen- ters, masons, and others, in the build- ing trades, in house furnishing and decoration, and notably in surveying and the measurement of land. The ordinary square measure for carpenters, masons, and others is as follows : 144 sq. inches 1 sq. foot. 9 sq. feet, or 1,296 sq. inches 1 sq. yard. 100 sq. feet 1 sq. of flooring, roofing, etc. 36 sq. yards Iroodof building Carpenters, architects, and mechan- ics often write 8" for 8 inches, and 5' for S feet. They also use sq." and sq.' for square inches and square feet. Plastering, ceiling, etc., are com- monly estimated by the square yard; paving, glazing, and stone cutting by the square foot; roofing, flooring, and slating by the square 100 feet. Cost of Lathing. — Laths are 4 feet long, IJ inches wide, and are laid | inch apart at the sides, and close together at the ends. A bunch of lath contains 100 pieces, and is estimated to cover S square yards of surface. Cost of Clapboarding and Shing- ling. — Clapboards are usually cut 4 feet long and 6 inches wide, and are put up in bundles of twenty-five each. Shingles are estimated at 9 shingles, laid 4 inches to the weather, to the square foot. Allowing for waste and defects, 1,000 shingles are estimated to cover 100 square feet, called a square. In practice, 1,000 shingles of the best quality will cover 125 square feet. Or to find the number of shingles required in a roof: multiply the num- ber of square feet in the roof by 9 if the shingles are exposed 4 inches, by 8 if exposed 4i inches, or by 7J if ex- posed 5 inches. To find the number of square feet. multiply the length of the roof by twice the length of the rafters. To find the length of the rafters at J pitch, multiply the width of the building by .56 (hundredths); at J pitch by .6 (tenths) ; at § pitch by .64 (hundredths) ; at J pitch by .71 (hundredths). This gives the length of the rafters from the apex to the end of the wall, and whatever they are to project must be taken into consid- eration. By J or J pitch is meant that the apex or comb of the roof is to be J to J the width of the building higher than the walls or base of the rafters. Measurement of Wall Surfaces. — A common application of square measure in the household is in esti- mating material and labor for the treatment of wall surfaces by paper hanging, plastering, painting, or cal- cimining. All of these are usually computed by the square yard. Wall paper is sold by the roll, which is usually 18 inches vride and 8 yards in length. Or in double rolls of the same width, 16 yards long. These are counted as 3 rolls each. They economize waste in cutting. These are the dimensions of most wall papers made in America, and may be taken for granted unless otherwise specified. Imported papers differ as to the length and width of the roll. Borders or friezes are sold by the yard. They vary in width from 3 inches upward. Cost of Hanging Wall Paper. — It is not possible, as a rule, to find in advance the exact cost of papering a room. The measurement of the room will, however, assist in making an es- timate of the number of rolls re- quired. The actual number to be paid for can be determined only after the papering has been done. Then all rolls that have been cut must be paid for, the uncut rolls being, as a rule, allowed to be returned. When estimating the number of roUs of paper required for papering a room of ordinary height (i.e., if the distance, from the baseboard to WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 615^ the border is not more than 8 feet), first measure around the room, leaving out the widths of the doors and win- dows; then allow one double roll or two single rolls for every 7 feet. • Or by another method, measure around the room in yards. The num- ber of strips required will be just about double the number of yards. Find how many strips can be cut from a roll and divide the number of strips required to go around the room by the number that can be cut from a roU. The result will be the number of rolls. Cost of Plastering, Papering, and Calcimining. — These are measured by the square yard. Allowances are sometimes made either in whole or part for the area of openings, for baseboards, and the Hke. But there is no uniform rule respecting these allowances. Custom varies so greatly that it is better to make a written contract to govern the final settle- ment. The surfaces of the walls of a room may be found by multiplying the sum of the lengths of the four sides changed to square units by the height. Cost of Carpeting Booms. — Car- peting and matting is in various widths, commonly 1 yard or | of a yard in width, and is sold by the yard. Oilcloth and linoleum come in various widths and are sold by the square yard. The niunher of yards of carpeting required for a room depends on the size of the room, the directions in which the strips run, and the loss caused by matching the figures. Hence it is necessary to decide first whether the strips shall run length- wise or across the room; next, how much will be wasted in matching the pattern; and finally the number of strips required. The nimiber of yards in a strip, including the waste in matching the pattern, multiplied by the nimiber of strips, will give the number of yards required. In large carpet stores, loss in matching the figures is sometimes avoided by cut- ting strips from different rolls. Waste may also occur from turning under carpets that are too wide, and from borders. If borders are put all around the carpet, the corners must be counted twice, because one half of each corner is wasted in the making. STTBVETOBS' AND LAND MEASTTBS Land Heasure. — The same table with certain additions as follows is 1615 FT = I ROD "Ordinary Land Measure." used for ordinary land or surface measure : 144 sq. inches 1 sq. foot. 9 sq. feet 1 sq. yard, 30i sq. yards 1 sq. rod or perch 40 sq. perches 1 rood. 4 roods 1 acre. 640 acres 1 sq. mUe. Surveyors' measure. — In addition, the following table based upon Gun- ter's Chain, which is 4 rods or 66 feet, is employed for land surveying. An engineer's chain, used by civil engi- neers, is 100 feet long, and consists of 100 links. 7.92 inches ] link. 25 links 1 rod. 100 links 1 .chain. 66 feet 1 chain. 4 rods 1 chain. 10 sq. chains—lGO sq. rods 1 acre. 80 chains 1 mile. 640 acres 1 sq. mile. 625 sq. links 1 sq. pole. 16 sq. poles 1 sq. chain. 10 sq. chains 1 acre. sq. mi. A. sq. rd. sq. yd. sq. ft. 1 = 640 = 102400 = 3097600 - 27878400 sq. in. 4014489600 Scale.— 640, 160, 30i, 9, 144. The term perch or pole is some- times used instead of square rod. The rood, 40 perches, or i acre, is found in old title deeds and surveys. Bules for Land Measure. — The fol- lowing rules and suggestions may be of assistance in measuring land. 616 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Measure 309 feet on each side and the result will be a square acre within an inch. To find the number of acres in any plot of land when the number of rods is given, divide the number of rods by 8, multiply the quotient by 6, and re- move the decimal point two places to the left. To find how many rods in length will make an acre when the width in rods is given, divide 160 by the width in rods and the quotient will be the answer. To find the number of acres in a body of land having square corners and parallel sides, ascertain the length and the width in rods, multiply these numbers and divide the product by 160, the number of square rods in an acre. If there is a remainder, carry out to two decimal places. The result will be the answer in acres and hun- dredths. If opposite sides of a piece of land are of unequal length add them together and take i as the mean length or width. To measure a triangular field, mul- tiply the length of the longest side in rods by the greatest width in rods; take i the product and divide by 160. To measure any field of irregu- lar outline, provided the sides are straight, divide the field into triangles and measure each triangle by this rule. But if the sides are crooked make a number of parallel measure- ments across the field at places equal distances apart, add them, and divide the total by the number of measure- ments made; this will give the mean length; similar measurements in the opposite direction will give the mean width. Multiply the two results and divide by 160. To find the surface of a circular field, measure the diameter in rods, multiply the diameter by itself and the result by 7.854 and divide by 160. To lay Out aa Acre. — An acre of land contains 160 square rods or 43,560 square feet. To lay out an acre at right angles, i.e., square corners, one side being known, divide the square contents of an acre by the length of the known side, taking care that both are expressed in the same kind of units. For example: if one side is known to be 4 rods, divide 160, the number of square rods in an acre, by 4 and the quotient will be 40 rods or the depth of the acre plot. Or, if the length of the known side is 180 feet, divide 43,560, the number of square feet in an acre, by 180 and the result will be 242 or the depth of the acre plot in feet. The following table will be found convenient for reference: A. R. Rds. Sq. Yds. Sq. Ft. Sq. In. 1 = 4=160=4840 =43560 =6272640 1= 40=1210 =10890 =1568160 1= 30}= 272i= 39204 1 = 9 = 1296 1 = 144 Estimate of Waste Land. — A standard English mile, which is the measure that we use, is 6,380 feet in length, 1,760 yards, or 330 rods. A strip 1 rod wide and 1 mile long is 2 acres. By this it is easy to calcu- late the quantity of land taken up by roads, and also how much is wasted by fences. United States Government Land Measure. — Government surveys in this country are made with references to a principal meridian running north and south, of which there are 24 in the United States. A base line is run east and west at right angles with the meridian. The land is then di- vided by means of lines running par- allel with these into sections 6 miles on each side. These are called town- ships. A line of townships running north and south is called a range. It is designated by a number east or west from the principal meridian. Each township Is divided into 36 sections. These are each 1 mile square and contain 640- acres. The sections are all numbered from 1 to 36, commencing at the northeast cor- ner. They are further subdivided into quarters, which are named by the cardinal points, and the quarters are again subdivided in the same way. The following table will be found convenient for reference; WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 617 1 township, 6 miles square 36 sections. 1 section, 1 mile square G40 acres. 1 quarter section, i mile square . . 160 acres. I eighth section, i mile long, north and south, i mile wide.. . 80 acres. A section, i mile square 40 acres. Most of the Western States have been laid out on this plan by the Government. All titles, except city lots, are established under this survey. Comparative Land Measure. — The standard acre varies in the different countries of the world and allowance must be made for this difference in statements of the products of the- land per acre in various countries. The Same land measure is used in this country as in England. The com- parative size of the different units of land measure of different countries, in square yards, is given as follows: English acre 4.S40 aq. yards. Scotch acre 6,150 sq. yards. Irish acre 7,840 sq. yards. Hamburg acre 11,545 sq. yards. Amsterdam acre 9,722 sq. yards. Dantzic acre 6,650 sq. yards. France (hectare) acre 11,960 sq. yards. Prussia (morgen) acre 3,053 sq. yards. This difference should be borne in mind in reading of the products per acre in different countries. Our land measure is that of England. In Texas, New Mexico, and other Spanish sections of , the United States, the Spanish land measures are still in use. The unit of length is the vara, equal in Texas to 33J inches, in Cali- fornia to 33 inches, and in Mexico to 32.9927 inches. Counting 33J inches to the vara, 108 varas = 100 yards, and 1900.8 varas ==: 1 mile. Land is measured in square varas, labors, and square leagues. 1,000,000 sq. varas =1 labor = 177.136 acres. 25 labors = 1 sq.lea, =4428.4 acres. 1 acre — 5645.376 sq. varas. Dimensions of Acre Plots. — The following are approximate measures of an acre plot: 3 by B3i rods is 1 acre. 4 by 40 rods is 1 acre. 5 by 32 rods is >...'.. 1 acre. 6 by 26f rods is 1 acre. 7 by 22? rods is 1 acre. 8 by 20 rods is 1 acre. 9 by 17f rods is 1 acre. 10 by 16 rods is 1 acre. II by 14j°r rods is 1 acre. 12 by 13i rods is 1 acre. Twelve rods 10 feet and 8J inches square make an acre. Dimensions of Small lots. — The following are approximate measures of plots less than an acre: Fraction of an acre. Square feet. Feet square. A 2722 i 62i 5445 73 10890 104 14520 120 ■ 21780 147 1 43560 208 2 87120 295i CUBIC OB GAFACITT MEASUBE Capacity Measure. — Measures of capacity are principally of three sorts: solid, liquid, and dry measure. In practical application of capacity measure, however, a number of differ- ent units are employed for different purposes. Among these is cubic measure used by scientists and also in the building trades for the meas- " The UUiTnate Measure is the Yard.*' urement of stone, lumber, and for many other pui-poses. The ultimate unit is the cube of the standard yard with the cubes of its subdivisions into feet and inches. Other common units are the cord E|.nd the cord foot used in the measurement of wood for fuel, and the perch used in the measure- ment of stone for masonry. The bushel with its subdivisipns is the unit of dry measure and is used for grain, vege- tables, and the like; but there is an 618 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES increasing tendency to determine the measurement of these articles by weight. The gallon is the unit of measurement for liquids, with the ex- ception of medicine, for which a spe- cial unit is provided. The following is a table of solid or cubic measure: 1728 cu. inches 1 cu. foot. 27 cu. feet 1 cu. yard. 40 cu. feet of round timber or 50 cu. feet of hewn tim- ber 1 ton or load. 42 cu. feet 1 ton shipping, 16 cu. feet 1 cord-foot of wood. 8 cord feet 1 cord of wood. 128 cu. feet 1 cord of wood. 24i cu. feet 1 perch of stone or masonry. 2150.42 cu. inches 1 standard bushel. 268.8 cu. inches 1 standard gallon. 1 cu. foot } bushel. A perch of stone or masonry is 16J feet long, IJ feet thick, and 1 foot high, and contains 24| cubic feet. A cubic yard of earth is considered a load. WOOD, LUUBEB ASO BOASD MEASUKE Measurement of Wood and lum- ber. — Among the most frequent ap- plications of cubic or capacity meas- "A Cord-Foot is One-aght of this Pile." ure is the measurement of cord wood for fuel and of round timber or sawed lumber for building and other "pur- poses. Wood is usually cut for fuel into 4 feet sticks. A cord of wood is a pile 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet high. It contains 138 cubic feet. A cord-foot is J of this pile or a pile of wood 4 feet long, 4 feet high, and 1 foot wide. To obtain the number of cords in a pile of wood, multiply the length of the wood by the height of the pile ex- pressed in feet and that result by the length of the pile in feet. Divide the product by 128 and the quotient will be the number of cords. Board Measure. — Lumber is sold at so much " per M," meaning per thou- sand feet B. M. or board measure. Board measure is used in measuring lumber sawed into boards, planks, joists, scantling, etc. The unit of board measure is the board foot, which is 1 foot long, 1 foot wide, and '1 inch thick, and hence is equal to^^ of a cubic foot. Hence to find the number of board feet in a board or other piece of lumber having square edges and parallel sides, first find the surface of the board in square feet and multiply the product by the thickness in inches. Boards 1 inch in thickness or less are sold by the square foot, surface measure. Thus a board 1 foot wide and 16 feet long, if 1 inch or less in thick- ness, would contain 16 square feet or 16 feet board measure. A board 18 feet long, 6 inches wide, and 1 inch or less thick would contain 18 X i foot B. M. or 9 feet B. M. A joist 12 feet X 6 inches X 3 inches contains 13 X 3 X i feet B. M. or 13 feet B. M. The width of a board that tapers uniformly is averaged by taking one half the sum of the two ends, or, in practice, by measuring across the middle. In practice the width of a board is reckoned to the next smaller half inch. Thus, a width of 6| inches is taken as 6 inches, and the width of 6i inches is taken as 64 inches. To Measure Inch Boards. — Multi- ply the length in feet by the width in inches, and divide the product by 13. The quotient will be the contents in feet. For lumber IJ inches thick, add J to the quotient. If IJ inches thick, add i. If 1| inches thick, add f. If 3 inches thick, divide by 6 in- stead of by 13. If 3J inches thick, add i to the quotient and so on. If 3 inches thick, divide by 4. If 4 inches thick, divide by 3. Or to as- certain the contents (board measure) of timber, including scantling, joist, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 619 planks, sills, rafters, etc., multiply the width in inches by the thickness in Inches, and that by the length in feet and divide the product by 12. The result will be the number of feet. The measurement of round logs is intended to give the amount of lum- ber in board measure that can be sawed from them. Logs not over 15 feet in length are measured by means of a table stamped on calipers, the length and diameter of the small end being given. In the case of logs over 16 feet in length, the average di- ameter is taken. Or to measure round timber take the girth in inches at both the large and the small ends, add them, and di- vide by 3, which gives the mean girth. The square of J of the mean girth multiplied by the length of the tim- ber in feet will give the contents in cubic feet. This is the common prac- tice based on the estimate that round timber when squared loses i. The result gives t of the actual contents, the remaining J being allowed for waste in sawing. Or, by another rule, subtract 4 from the diameter of the log in inches, multiply the square of J the remain- der by the length of the log in feet. These two rules should give approxi- mately the same result. Or to find how many solid feet a round stick of timber, if of the same thickness throughout, will contain when squared, square half the diame- ter in inches, multiply by 2 and mul- tiply this product by the length in feet. Finally, divide by 144; the re- sult will be the contents of the squared timber in solid feet. Or to find the number of feet in timber having the bark on, square J of the circumference in inches and multiply the product by twice the length in feet. Then divide by 144. Subtract -^ to ^f of the total, accord- ing to the thickness of the bark. As a general rule, to find the solid con- tents of sawn lumber multiply the depth in inches by the breadth in inches and multiply the product by the length in feet and divide by 144. To determine how large a tree must be cut to get out a, stick of timber a given number of inches square, divide the side of the required square by .225. The quotient will be the circum- ference of the timber required. UEAStrBEUENT OF STONE AND BBICK Cost of Brick and Stone Work. — A common application of capacity measure is in preparing estimates for brick and stone work. Masons com- monly measure stone work by the perch, 16 J feet long, IJ feet wide, and 1 foot thick, or 34| cubic feet. Brick work is commonly estimated by the thousand bricks. It is, however, cus- tomary in many localities to reckon stone work by the cubic foot instead of by the perch. Usually a deduction is made by bricklayers, masons, and joiners, for one half of all openings. But this should be clearly established in each case in the contract. In computing the capacity of walls of cellars and buildings, masons and bricklayers multiply the. entire dis- tance around the outside of the wall (the girth) by the height and thick- ness. Thus the corners are measured twice. But this measurement applies only to the labor and not to the quan- tity of material to be paid for. Keasurement of Stone and Brick Walls. — A perch of stone is 24.75 cu- bic feet. When built in the wall, 2i cubic feet are allowed for the mortar and filling; hence 22 cubic feet of stone makes one perch of wall. Masons estimate 3 pecks of lime and 4 bushels of sand to a perch of wall. To find the number of perches of stone in n wall, multiply together the length, height, and thickness in feet and divide by 22. ' Measurement of Brick Work. — The size of bricks varies, and rules for es- timating the number of bricks re- quired must be modified accordingly. Bricks are now usually made 8 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 2 inches thick. Hence 37 bricks are required to make a cubic foot without mortar. But 620 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES it is assumed that mortar fills J of the space. The first step is to find the number of cubic feet in the wall by multiplying the length, height, and thickness together in feet, and if the bricks are of this size multiply the number of cubic feet by 22J. Formerly, however, and to some ex- tent at the present time, bricks were made of two sorts and sizes — common brick, 7i inches to 8 inches long by 41 inches wide and 2J inches thick, and front brick, J inch longer and wider. Of conmion brick 20 are re- quired to lay one cubic foot or IS common brick will lay one square foot of wall 8 inches thick. Hence to es- timate the number of bricks required for a wall 12 inches or more in thick- ness, multiply together the length, height, and thickness in feet, and that product by 20; or for an 8-inch wall multiply the length by the height and that by 15. An allowance of one half should be made for doors, windows, and other openings. Multiply their length by their width and that by the thickness of the wall in feet. Deduct one half the result from the cubic contents of the wall before multiply- ing by 20 or by IS, as above. DBT AND LIQTTID MEASVBE Dry Ueasnre. — The standard miit of dry measure is the English or Winchester bushel, containing 2150.43 cubic inches or 77.637 pounds avoir- dupois of distilled water at its great- est density. The standard measure is circular in form, its diameter inside being 18J inches, and its depth 8 inches. Dry measure is used in meas- uring grain, coal, fruit, vegetables, etc. The following is a table of dry measure commonly used in the United States: 4 gUls 1 pt. = 34S cu. in. nearly. 2 pints 1 qt. = 69i cu. in. 4 quarts 1 gal. = 277i cu. in. 5 quarts 1 pk, 2 gallons 1 pk. = 554i cu. in. 4 pks. or 8 gal 1 bu. — 2150i ou. in. 8 bushels 1 qr. ■= 10} cu. f t. nearly. 36 bushels 1 chaldron. When articles usually measured by the above table are sold by weight. the bushel is taken as the unit. The number of avoirdupois pounds in a bushel varies in different States and with different articles. In measuring grain, seeds, or small fruit, the measure must be even or " stricken." In measuring large fruits or coarse vegetables, corn in the ear, etc., and also meal and bran, the measure should be heaped at least 6 inches. Five stricken bushels are considered equal to 4 heaped bushels. The strick- en bushel is now little used, except to ascertain capacities. All the denominations are used in trade, the peck being the least in use. Liquid Meas. Dry Measure Cu. in. in one gal. 231 2681 Cu. in. in one qt. 57f 67i Cu. in. in one pt. 28* 331 Cu. in. If English Dry Measure. — In addition to the above the following terms for units of dry measure are still cus- tomary to some extent in the British Empire: 2 quarts 1 pottle. 2 bushels 1 strike. 2 strikes 1 coomb. 2 coombs 1 quarter. 5 quarters 1 load. 3 bushels 1 sack. 36 bushels 1 chaldron. Thirty - two British or Imperial bushels are equal to 38 of our bushels. Capacity of Boxes, Cribs, Wagon Bodies, etc. — The most convenient mode of ascertaining the capacity of boxes, bins, cribs, and the like, and also of measuring their contents, is by ascertaining the number of cubic feet which they contain; | of this amount will be the number of bushels, 1 cu- bic foot being f of a bushel nearly. Hence, to find the number of bushels in any receptacle which has parallel sides and square corners, first find the number of cubic feet by multiply- ing the height, length, and width in feet and deduct J; tlie result will be the contents in bushels. Or for an WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 621 approximate answer multiply the num- ber of cubic feet by 8 and point off one decimal place. These rules will give the number of bushels of apples, potatoes, and other vegetables or the capacity of any size bin or crib or wagon body. In estimating corn on the cob, its quality and condition must be taken into account. Corn shrinks consider- ably during the winter and spring months. But, as a general rule, 2 heaping bushels of corn on the cob at the time it is put into the crib wiU make from 1 to IJ struck bushels of shelled corn. In buying or selling it is advisable to make a test from a fair sample taken from the crib at the time of sale. To measure corn in the crib, multiply together the length, width, and height of the crib in inches, divide by 2,748, and the result will be the number of heaped bushels of ears. Or divide by 3,150 for the number of struck bushels. The quotient in each case will be the corresponding num- ber of bushels contained in the bin. If the sides of the crib flare, ascer- tain the mean width by measuring the width at both top and bottom, add the two amounts and divide by 2. Or, it is estimated that 2 cubic feet of sound dry corn on the ear will make 1 bushel shelled. Hence mul- tiply together the length, breadth, and height of the crib in feet and divide by 2. This should give the number of bushels of shelled corn in the crib. The corn should, of course, be uni- formly level so as to be of equal depth throughout. Capacity of Boxes. — The following is a table showing the principal units of dry measurement with the inside dimensions of boxes or bins having square corners and parallel sides that will contain the quantities stated. One convenient form of making boxes in small sizes for the storage of vegetables and numerous other pur- poses about the household, farm, and garden, is to cut the two ends of inch pine stuff to the proper size and form the bottom and two sides of laths. Saw these to the right length and tack them to the ends, with the thick- ness of a lath between each two. Such boxes are light, strong, and service- able. Larger bins or crates of heavier materials can be prepared on the same principle. Capacity. Length. Breadth. Depth. Ipint 3 in. 3 in. 3#in. 4iin. 1 quart. . . 4 in. 4 in. + gallon.. . 7 in. 7 in. 2fin. 4} in. Gallon.... 8 in. Sin. 1 peck. . . . i bushel... S|in. Sin. Sin. 12 in. Hi in. 9 in. 1 bushel... 26 in. 15} in. Sin. 1 barrel... 24 in. 164 in. 28 in. 20 bushels.. 4ft. Sin. 2 ft. 4 in. 2 ft. 4 in. 24 bushels.. 5 ft. 3 ft. 2 ft. 36 bushels.. 5 ft. 3 ft. 3 ft. 48b'UsheIs.. 5 ft. ' 3 ft. 4 ft. 100 bushels.. 7 ft. 5 ft. 3 ft. 9 in. 216 bushels.. 9 ft. 6 ft. 5 ft. 600 bushels.. 13 ft. 8 ft. 6 ft. Liquid Measure. — The measurement of wine and other liquors, molasses, vinegar, and the like, has been the oc- casion of great confusion due to vari- " Liquid Measured' ations of the standard unit of liquid capacity, the gallon. The gallon was originally a standard unit of weight. But as an equal bulk of various sub- stances differs in weight, early usage led to the adoption of two different gallons, wet and dry, and the gallon is still used as a unit of both wet and dry measure in Great Britain. The gallon at present the standard in the United States had its origin in an English statute passed shortly after the discovery of America by Colum- bus. A new standard gallon measure was constructed capable of holding 8 pounds of wheat of 12 ounces troy each. This was afterwards deter- 622 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES mined by statute to contain 268.8 cubic inches of water at a temperature of 63° F. The Winchester gallon, as this standard was called, having been gen- erally adopted in the United States, it became ultimately necessary to es- tablish a national standard for cus- tomhouse purposes. Accordingly, by resolution of the United States Sen- ate, on May 1, 1830, the Secretary of the Treasury procured the construc- tion of a set of uniform standard weights and measures to be supplied to all the customhouses. For this purpose a Winchester gallon of water, at a temperature of 39.83° F., was taken as the standard, and this was afterwards legalized by Congress. Hence the legal capacity of the gal- lon, the present United States stand- ard, was fixed at 231 cubic inches of water. As a result there is a consid- erable discrepancy between the Brit- ish Winchester and the so-called American Winchester gallon, the pres- ent United States standard. In the meantime, by an act of English Parliament, which went into eifect January 1, 1836, the capacity of the British gallon was made such as to contain 10 pounds avoirdupois of distilled water at the temperature of .62° F. or 277J cubic inches nearly. This is the so-called Imperial gallon, and since its introduction has been the only legal gallon in Great Britain for either wet or dry measure. The reason that it is necessary to state these facts in detail is that works of reference in the English . language circulate quite generally through all English speaking coun- tries, and it is quite customary to copy reference tables from one to an- other on the assumption that stand- ard units of weights and measures are invariable. This, however, as has been seen, is not the case. Hence it is nec- essary in making use of any published recipes or similar information where great accuracy is required, to ascer- tain whether the British Winchester, the American Winchester, or the British Imperial gallon is referred to. The only standards that are of ■universal application throughout the civilized world are those of the metric system. Tables of liqiiid Measure. — ^The following is the United States stand- ard of liquid or wine measure: 4 gills 1 pint (pt.) 28} cu. in. 2 pints 1 quart (qt.) 57J cu. in. 4 quarts 1 gallon Cgal.^ 231 cu. in. 31i gallons 1 barrel (bbl.) 2 barrels 1 hogshead (hhd.) 63 gallons 1 hogshead (hhd.) 2 hogsheads 1 pipe or butt (pi.) 2 pipes 1 tun. 282 cu. m 1 beer gallon. 36 beer gallons 1 barrel. ' The following is a table of the measure of capacity based upon the British Imperial gallon, which is in general use throughout the British Empire : Measure of Capacity for AU Lnquids. 5 ounces avoirdupois of water make 1 gill. 4 gills 1 pint = 34 J cu. in. nearly. 2 pints 1 quart = 69^ cu. in. nearly. 4 quarts 1 gallon = 277i cu. in. nearly. 31i gallons 1 barrd. 42 gallons 1 tierce. 63 gallons or 2 bbls 1 hogshead. 2 hogsheads 1 pipe or butt. 2 pipes 1 tun. The British Imperial gallon must contain exactly 10 pounds avoirdupois of pure water at a temperature of 62° F., the barometer being at 30 inches. It is the standard unit of measure of capacity for liquids and dry goods of every description, and is J larger than the old wine measure, ^^ larger than the old dry measure, and ^ less than the old ale measure. The following are terms in wine measure — more frequently used in England than in this country — with comparative capacity in British and American gallons: 18 U. S. gallons 1 rundlet. 25 Eng. gallons or 42 U. S. gallons 1 tierce. „?, tierces. . 1 puncheon. 62i Eng. goUons or 63 U. S. gallons Ihogahead. 2 hogsheads Ipipe 7i En§. gallons 1 firkin of beer. 4 firkms 1 barrel of beer. Comparison of liquid and Dry Measure.— The capacity of bins for grain is usuaUy measured in bushels, and the capacity of casks, cisterns, WEIGHTS AND. MEASURES 623 and the like, in gallons or barrels. In determining the capacity of cisterns and reservoirs, SIJ gallons are consid- ered a barrel, and 2 barrels or 63 gal- lons a hogshead. In commerce the size of casks for liquids is variable, barrels being made to contain from 30 to 40 gallons or more. Casks of large size called tierces, pipes, butts, tuns, etc., do not now hold any fixed quantity. Their capacity is usually marked upon them. While the standard liquid gallon con- tains 331 cubic inches in approximate measurements, 7J gallons are allowed to the cubic foot. As compared with the weight of water, a gallon will hold a little over 8J poimds, which is near enough for practical purposes. In comparison with dry measure, the United States standard bushel contains 21S0.4 cubic inches, the liq- uid gallon 231 cubic inches, and the dry gallon (the former British Win- chester standard — J bushel) 263.8 cu- bic inches. Hence 6 dry gallons equal nearly 7 liquid gallons. The British Imperial gallon contains 277.274 cu- bic inches or 10 pounds of distilled water, temperature 62° F., barometer 30 inches. The beer gallon contains 282 cubic inches, but it is not now in use. Hence the following rules to find the capacity of bins, cisterns, etc. To find the number of bushels, di- vide the volume in cubic inches by 2150.4. To find the number of gallons, divide the volume in cubic inches by 231. Apothecaries' Pluid Measure. — In addition to the above is the apotheca- ries' fluid measure, used in compound- ing medicines which are in fluid form as follows: 60 drops (gtt.) or minims (m) — 1 fluid dram - - 100° Blood Heat 98° - _ Water Freezes 32°- 0°- - 0° same pendulum will vibrate faster at the poles than at the equator. Hence the pendulum is used to determine the force of gravity at various points on the earth's surface. And the length of a pendulum vibrating sec- onds under stated conditions is now the accepted standard of length in Great Britain and the United States. In the vicinity of New York a pendu- lum vibrating once in a second is 39-^ inches long. To shorten the pendulum of a clock makes it run faster; to lengthen it makes it run slower. Measuring Temperature. — ^We com- monly use a thermometer known as Fahrenheit's. In scientific work the centigrade (a word meaning " 100 degrees") is used. Because there are just 100° between the freezing and boiling points of water, on the centigrade thermometer, and the freezing point is at 0°, that would be easier than the Fahren- heit to work with if we were used to it. Specific Gravity. — The specific gravity of any substance is the num- ber of times its weight contains the weight of an equal volume of water. Since the weight of a cubic foot of water at its greatest density is 1,000 oz., or 62J lb., the weight of a cubic foot of any substance is found by multiplying 1,000 oz. avoirdupois by its specific gravity. UEASTTBES OF VALTr£ The common measure of value is money. It is also called currency, and is of two kinds, viz.: coin and paper money. Stamped pieces of metal having a value fixed by law are coin and specie. Notes and bills issued by the Gov- ernment and banks, and authorized to be used as money, are paper money. AU money which, if offered, legally satisfy a debt are a legal tender. UNITED STATES MONEY The unit of United States or Fed- eral money is the dollar. Table. 10 mills (m.) = 1 cent ot. 10 cents = 1 dime d. 10 dimes =1 dollar S 10 dollars = 1 eagle e. Scale: decimal. The dollar mark is probably a com- bination of U. S., the Initials of the words " United States." The coins of the United States are: Gold. — The double eagle, eagle, half eagle, quarter eagle, and one-dollar piece. Silver. — The dollar, half dollar, quarter dollar, and ten-cent piece. Nickel. — The five-cent piece. Bronze. — The one-cent piece. There are various other coins of the United States in circulation, but they are not coined now. The de- nominations dimes and eagles are rarely used, the dimes being regard- ed as cents and the eagles as dol- lars. The unit of value is the dollar. Its standard weight in gold is 35.8 gr. The standard purity of the gold and silver coins is by weight, 9 parts of pure metal and 1 part alloy. The aUoy of gold coins consists of silver and copper; the silver, by law, is not to exceed one tenth of the alloy. The alloy of silver coins is pure copper. The nickel coins consist of one fourth nickel and three fourths copper. The cent is composed of 95 parts copper and 5 parts tin and zinc. AU gold coins are a legal tender for any amount; silver coins less than $1 are legal tender for any amount not exceeding $10 in any one pay- ment; nickel and bronze coins, for any amount not exceeding 25 cents in any one payment. Aliquot Parts of a Dollar. — ^When the price of an article is an aliquot part of a dollar, the cost of any num- ber of such articles may be found more readily than by multiplying. The aliquot parts of a dollar com- monly used in business are: 642 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES S0ots.= 4 of $1 12icts.= i ot$l our plain English, 10, 100, etc., it is 20 " = 4 "' 1 33* " =t " i ^^^ *° ^""Ploy capital letters for the 10 " =^ "1 lel " = I " 1 multiples and small letters for the subdivisions, to avoid ambiguities in The following aliquot parts of a abbreviations: 1 dekameter or 10 me- doUar are also used: ters = l dm.; 1 decimeter or t";, of a 25 ots. = J of 50 cts. 16} cts. = i of 33| cts. meter = 1 dm. 12* " -i " 50 " 12i " =J ;; 25 ;; The meter, unit of length, is 6i " =i " 50 " 6i " =i"25 nearly the ten-miUionth part of a quadrant of a meridian, of the dis- EHGLISH OB STEELING MONEY tance between equator and pole. The English money is the currency of International Standard Meter is. Great Britain. The unit is the pound practically, nothing else but a length or sovereign. deiined by the distance between two Table. lines on a platinum-iridium bar at 0° 12 pTncl"^ ""'^ : 1 Sng: : : ; : : ". : : ; : : :t centigrade, deposited at the Intema- ,„..;„; , J 1 pound, or \ „ tional Bureau of Weights and Meas- 20 »hm.ngs.^ . .^. . = j 1 |,,,,i^ ^ £ ^^^^^ p^^.^^ p^^^^^_ 1=26=240=960. The liter, unit of capacity, is de- Soale: 20, 12, 4. ^.j^g^ j^pj^ tj,g weight of one kilo- Farthings are commonly written as S'^^'^ P""'^ ^^t" ^\ Sre^^f density, fractions of a penny. Thus, 7 pence ^ ^^^^e whose edge is one tenth of a 3 farthings is written 7|d.; 5 pence 1 «>«*!' ^""J' th«efore, the one-thou- farthing, 5id. «^°f ^ P^'"* °* ^.'^f ™ ^°^- . The value of £1 or sovereign is P"^ gram, unit of weight is a cube $4.866S in American gold, and the °{ P^'^ water at greatest density, other coins have their proportionate ^^°^ ^^/^ is one hundredth of a me- values ' ^ ' therefore, the one-thou- The"coins of Great Britain in gen- sandth part of a kilogram, and the eral use are- one-miUionth part of a metric ton. Gold—Sovereign, half sovereign, ,,^^^, ^Z^^^^/*^"* "^f /^^aW *" and guinea, which is equal to 21 sWl- *« United States on July 28. 1866, linff"! when Congress enacted as follows: »i.,.. Ti,. „ /^^..oi t-^ c " The tables in the schedule hereto Sliver. — Ihe crown (equal to 5 , , ,, , . , . ., shUlings). half crown, florin (equal to annexed shaU be recogmzed m the 3 shillings). shiUing, sixpenny and construction of contracts, and m aU threepenny pieces. i^S^ proceedings, as establishmg, m n.__„_ -o. „ , „ A i,„i*„. terms of the weights and measures Copper. — Penny and halfpenny. . . ^ -4. j et 4. 1.1. now in use in the United States, the equivalents of the weights and meas- METRIC SYSTEM OF WEIGHTS AND ures expressed therein in terms of the MEASTJEES metric system, and the tables may The metric system has been lawfully be used for computing, de- adopted by Mexico, Brazil, Chili, termining, and expressing in custom- Peru, etc., and except Russia and ary weights and measures the weights Great Britain, where it is permissive, and measures of the metric system." by all European nations. Various Approximate Equivalents. — A me- names of the preceding systems are, ter is about a yard; a kilo is about 3 however, frequenUy used: In Ger- pounds; a liter is about a quart; a many, J kilogram = 1 pound; in centimeter is about J inch; a metric Switzerland, ^ of a meter = 1 foot, ton is about same as a ton ; a kilome- etc. If the first letters of the pre- ter is about § mile; a cubic centime- fixes deka, hecto, kilo, myria, from ter is about a thimbleful; a nickel the Greek, and deci, centi, mili, from weighs about 5 grams. the Latin, are used in preference to The following are the tables: WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 643 Mbabukes of Length Metric Denominations and Values. Bquivalents in Denominations in Use. Myriameter . i^ometer. . . Hectometer. Dekameter. . Meter Decimeter... Centimeter.. Millimeter... 10,000 meters. 1,000 meters. 100 meters. 10 meters. 1 meter. ^ of a meter. T^o of a meter. iiRiv of a meter. 6.2137 miles. 0.62137 mile, or 3,2S0 feet 10 inches. 328 feet 1 inch. 393.7 inches. 39.37 inches. 3.937 inches. 0.3937 inch. 0.0394 inch. Measttres of Surface Metric Denominations -and Values. Hectare 10,000 square meters. Are 100 square meters. Gentare 1 square meter. Equivalents in Denominations in Use. 2.471 acres. 119.6 square yards. 1,550 square inches. Measures of Cafacztt Metric Denominations anh Values. Equivalents in Denominations in Use. Names. Num- ber of Liters. Cubic Measure. Dry Measure. Liquid or Wine Measure. 1,000 100 10 1 lo6ti 264.17 gallons. Hectoliter . ^n of a cubic meter 10 cubic decimeters. . . 1 cubic decimeter ]^ of a cu. decimeter. . 10 cubic centimeters... 1 cubic centimeter 2 bush, and 3.35 pecks 9.08 quarts 26.417 gallons. 2.6417 gallons. 1.0567 quarts. Deciliter CentiUter Milliliter 6.1022 cubic inches 0.845 gill. Weights Metkic Denominations and Values. EoniTALENTS IN DE- NOMINATIONS IN Use. Names. Number of Grams. Weight of What Quantity of Water at Maximum Density. Avoirdupois Weight. Millier or tonneau. . Quintal Myriagram Kilogram or kilo. . . Hectogram Dekagram Gram Decigram Centigram Milligram 1,000,000 100,000 10,000 1,000 100 10 1 A iJo nnj5 1 cubic meter 1 hectoliter 10 liters 1 liter 1 deciliter 10 cubic centimeters 1 cubic centimeter A of a cubic centimeter 10 cubic millimeters 1 cubic millimeter 2204.6 pounds. 220.46 pounds. 22.046 pounds. 2.2046 pounds. 3 . 5274 ounces. 0.3627 ounce. 15.432 grains. 1.5432 grains. 0.1543 grain. 0.0154 grain. 644 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES approximate' equivalents A meter is about a yard; a kilo is about 2 pounds; a liter is about a quart; 3 centimeter is about i inch; a metric ton is about same as a ton; a kilometer is about } mile; a cubic centi- meter is about a tliimbleful; a nickel weighs about 5 grams. Fbecise Equivalents. 1 acre = .40- hectare 4047 1 bushel = 36 liters 35.24 1 centimeter = .39 inch 3937 1 cubic centimeter = •061 cubic inch 0610 1 cubic foot — .038 cubic meter 0283 1 cubic inch = 16 cubic centimeterst 16.39 1 cubic meter = 35 cubic feet 35.31 1 cubic meter = 1.3 cubic yards 1 .308 1 cubic yard = .76 cubic meter 7645 1 foot = 30 centimeters 30.48 1 gallon = 3.8 Kters 3.785 1 grain = .065 gram 0648 1 gram = 15 grains 15.43 1 hectare = 3.5 acres 2.471 1 inch =25 millimeters 25.40 1 kilo = 3.3 pounds 2.205 1 kilometer = .63 mile 6214 1 liter = .91 quart (dry) 9081 1 liter = 1.1 quarts (liquid) 1 .057 1 meter = 3.3 feet 3.281 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers 1.609 1 miUimeter =■ .039 inch 0394 1 ounce (avoirdupois) =38 grams 28 . 35 1 ounce (troy) =31 grams 31 . 10 1 peck = 8.8 Uters 8.809 Ipint = .47 liter 4732 1 pound = .45 kilo 4536 1 quart (dry) = 1.1 liters 1.101 1 quart (Uquid) = .95 liter 9464 1 sq. centimeter = .15 sq. inch 1550 1 sq. foot = .093 sq. meter 0929 1 sq. inch = 6.5 sq. centimeters 6.452 1 sq. meter = 1.3 sq. yards 1 . 196 1 sq. meter = 11 sq. feet 10.76 1 sq. yard = .84 sq. meter 8361 1 ton (2,000 lbs.) = .91 metric ton 9072 1 ton (2,240 lbs.) = 1 metric ton 1.017 1 ton (metric) = 1.1 ton (2,000 lbs.) 1.102 1 ton (metric) = .98 ton (2,240 lbs.) 9842 1 yard = .91 meter 9144 CHAPTER XXV HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY George J. Fisher, M.D. GENERAL HINTS IN TIME OF ACCIDENT— FIRST AID IN TIME OF INJURY— POISONS AND THEIR ANTIDOTES— FAINTING— HOW TO TREAT A BRUISE OR SPRAIN— TREATMENT OF SPECIAL PARTS— CUTS AND SCRATCHES— POISONED WOUNDS —POISON IVY AND POISON OAK— BURNS — BLEEDING— DIS- LOCATIONS — FRACTURES — DROWNING — PRONE PRESSURE METHOD Health Hints. — It is much better to prevent disease than to cure it. Health depends upon strict adher- ence to a few simple rules. Most of the sickness of to-day is preventable, and is due primarily to carelessness in living habits. It is not enough, however, simply not to be ill. Many people who are not sick, still are not well. To really enjoy Ufe, one should be at his best and know the thrill of abounding health and the joy of well- being. Many people never experience this, apf" the slightest change in their environment makes them uncomfort- able; yet they would not say they were ill. Plenty of fresh air, a sane and simple diet and regular exercise, combined with a, care-free state of mind, are the secrets of a normal, healthy life. They are so simple that people overlook them. Fresh Air. — Sleep with the win- dows open, but be protected from the direct wind. Night air is not only not harmful, but absolutely healthful. See to it also that you work under conditions of fresh air; it will prove a tonic. Bad air depresses all the or- gans of the body. Houses, working places, offices, hotels, trains, are abominably ventilated. Keep on the lookout or you wJU be constantly poi- soned. Tenting out in the summer time or sleeping on a screened porch or roof will prove to the tired worker who is run down a wonderful restorer. Make friends with the fresh air. Exercise. — Just this simple but important suggestion: Each person must have during each day a fair amount of rather vigorous exercise of the large muscles of the body. By this I mean the muscles of the trimk. These muscles are closely related to the most important organs of the 645 646 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES body and the latter depend upon the muscles for their vitality. Bending the body forward and backward at the hips and sideways and twisting at the waist are very valuable exer- cises. Walking and slow running are exceedingly important, especially if indulged in until they cause deep breathing and perspiration. Of course outdoor exercise is best. Hill climb- ing is splendid, especially for a weak heart, if done with frequent intervals of rest. Everyone should have a fa- vorite outdoor recreation aside from and different from his daily work. Baseball and tennis for the vigorous, golf and horseback riding and wheel- ing for the more mature, are excel- lent. A medicine ball used with a va- riety of movements is fine for exer- cising the large muscles referred to. The great increase in the so-called organic diseases, namely, diseases of the heart, lungs, digestion, and kid- neys, reveals the need for systematic exercise. People who are inclined to obesity, in particular, should select some helpful forms of exercise. Exer- cise should be taken in such a way as to be real fun, not work; it should be pleasure and not stern duty. Bathing. — The day's work should be followed by a short, refreshing bath. Nothing will prove so cheering as this. When depressed or irritable, a bath will oftentimes drive dull care away. People with weak hearts must be cautioned in using very cold water, as it is quite a shock to the nervous system. The average person, how- ever, will find a quick, cool sponge bath decidedly stimulating. Many prefer it on arising in the morning. If one's work causes the skin to be moist during the day, it will be more refreshing to take it at the close of the day's work, possibly, and best before the evening meal, allowing some time between. Returning for the moment to the subject of exercise, may I hold out one word of warning? Housewives and men on farms are particularly liable when alone without help near by to often lift an object or move it which in the act demands great ef- fort. This is exceedingly dangerous, as in efforts of strain the blood pres- sure increases and harm may result. Don't attempt to lift or move any object requiring great effort. Diet. — ^AVhat one eats is closely re- lated to how one feels. Most people undoubtedly eat too much. This is true particularly of people who work indoors and do not exercise much. Such people should eat meat but once a day, as meat is only required in quantities by persons who work vigorously with their muscles. I do not believe people should be faddists in reference to eating. To eat well- cooked foods, plenty of vegetables, liberally of fruits and cereals and sparingly of meat and pastries, all well masticated when eaten, is the wisest course. It is foolish to be too fanciful in the choice of foods and to punish oneself in eating raw foods and unpalatable mixtures. Just a simple word of counsel as to what not to eat: Any food which is tasted an hour or more after eating is being digested with difficulty. This will differ as to effects in different people. Such foods should be elimi- nated. Some people find radishes, onions, cucumbers, and sausage very difficult of digestion, while others thrive upon them. The latter can eat them with impunity, while the former must do without them, or uncom- fortable and even serious results will follow. Salads and highly seasoned dressings should be eaten with cau- tion. Fatigue. — This is a day when men and women are constantly overwork- ing. Some housewives and many busi- ness men never know when to stop. Consequently, they constantly over- work and never get fully rested. They are tired and often don't know it. They wonder why they are peevish and irritable. The truth is their blood is filled with fatigue products, their nerves are tired and insensible. Nothing but complete rest will help. Under such physical conditions a housewife cannot be a good mother HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMEEGENCY 647 nor a man a good father. Working habits must be adjusted so as to per- mit of rest, or living becomes miser- able. The housewife should learn to regulate her working hours just as workingmen do, or health will pay the penalty. A further and final word in refer- ence to health: Consult a doctor fre- quently. Many people call the doc- tor as a last resort. This is wrong, and many a serious illness results which otherwise might have been pre- vented. The eyes, teeth, and throat should be examined occasionally, es- pecially when they are sensitive, as diseases of these are peculiarly re- lated to the depression of the whole body and affect temperament as well. This is particularly true of children. GENERAL HINTS IN TIUE OF ACCIDENT Keep cool. Try and keep others cool. This is the great need. In time of panic, or fire, or accident, serious results may be avoided if some person is calm enough to take charge of things and inspire confi- dence. It is well for one to get ac- customed to the sight of blood. Many cannot, control themselves un- der such circumstances. It is a good practice to witness an operation oc- casionally, or to assist in dressing a wound for the purpose of schooling oneself. Always send for a surgeon immediately in time of accident. In doing so, explain as fully as possible what the difficulty is, or probably may be, so that the physician can come prepared. Always see that the patient is made comfortable in a quiet place. Keep curious people away. Loosen collars and corset, es- pecially all clothing about the neck and chest. If the face of the injured or unconscious person is pale, lower the head. In sunstroke, or where the individual's face is flushed, have the head high. Do not do too much. Do not touch affected parts with the hands. Moisten clothing in removing from wounds. In many instances it will be best to cut off the clothing to prevent further injury. How to Dress Wounds. — The first essential is to thoroughly cleanse the wound and remove all foreign mate- rial. This can be done with clean water which has been boiled for at least ten minutes. The hands and arms to the elbow should be cleansed. The water can be applied with ster- ilized absorbent cotton. After the wound is thus cleansed, use a mild antiseptic wash. A saturated solu- tion of boric acid (not borax) may be used. By saturated solution is meant as much boric acid as water will contain in solution. If the wound is a smooth cut, it will bleed profusely, as the blood has difficulty In securing a hold in order to clot. After the wound is cleansed, the edges of it can be brought to- gether by means of adhesive plaster. Where this cannot be done, a surgeon will be required to stitch the edges together. If the head be injured, the patient should lie down with the head resting upon a pillow or cushion covered with a clean towel, taking care that the injured part be kept from con- tact with surrounding articles. If the arm be injured, it should, as a rule, be brought across in front of the chest and supported in a sling. If the lower limb be wounded, it may be supported in a comfortable position by resting upon a cushion or blanket. In wounds of the chest, the head and shoulders should be raised by one or more pillows until the patient is able to breathe comfortably. If the abdomen be wounded, the patient should be made lie down, with his knees drawn up, and turned over toward the uninjured side; or upon the back if the wound be in front. Before dressing the wound the nails should be thoroughly cleansed with a brush and rings removed from the fingers. After cleansing the hands, do not touch anything not ab- 648 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES solutely clean. All vessels used should be cleansed with boiling water before using. If the wound is jagged, the dead pieces of tissue must be removed and extra precaution taken to remove aU foreign particles; the latter can be removed with pincers. Never close up a wound until the bleeding has been stopped, as a small artery may be ruptured, and this must be con- trolled first. If the wound is covered with grease or soot or dirt, it can be removed by using gauze moistened in turpentine or benzine. A punctured wound, such as an in- jury produced by stepping on a nail or from the penetration of the point of an ice pick is dangerous, because the wound closes and excludes the air, thus making the wound favor- able to the development of the lock- jaw germ. This is all the more likely to occur if one steps on a rusty nail in the vicinity of a stable, as the lockjaw germ, or tetanus germ, is a dirt germ and thrives in such lo- calities. The best treatment for a closed wound is to open it and let the air in, and keep it thus exposed, as the lock- jaw germ cannot thrive in the pres- ence of air. Of course the wound when thus opened should be cleansed the same as any other wound. If a needle or splinter has been the cause of the wound, see that not a particle remains. In removing a splinter, see that a fair amount of the splinter is ex- posed, so that a good hold can be got on it by inserting the blade of a penknife under it, and press down upon the flesh around the top of the splinter with the thumb nail and draw it out gently. Sometimes it is necessary to enlarge the wound some to get at the splinter or other object. If the splinter is under a linger nail, it may be necessary to pare away much of the nail in order to expose the splinter. After wounds are ready for final dressing, cover the wound with felted cotton, then apply bandages. Fish hooks usually have to be pushed through the tissues, as they cannot he withdrawn. The eyelet of the hook will have to be filed or cut off to allow it to pass through. FIRST AID IN TIME OF INJUET The only excuse for acting in time of injury is the absence of a physi- cian. Always send for a doctor and do the necessary things during the in- terval of his coming. Of course there are occasions when a doctor is not available; then, of course, more thor- ough treatment and action is neces- sary and permissible. Before entering into the considera- tion of specific treatment of condi- tions, it may be wise to say a word or two in reference to equipment. It will be well to have handy in the house, or in camp, or when on a tramp, a medicine case containing at least the following remedies: Whisky. — Whisky of a good qual- ity is valuable for many conditions, especially in case of snake bite, when it is a specific. Care should be used in giving it to children. ' Tincture of Feppermint is splen- did for relieving colic, bowel troubles, and is a remedy for vomiting. The dose is 10 to 20 drops on sugar. Tincture of Ginger is also good for similar conditions, and the dose is 10 to 40 drops in sweetened water. Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia is an indispensable remedy to have about. It is a strong stimulant as an inhalant and can also be adminis- tered internally, the dose being 10 to 30 drops in sweetened water. It is efScient in restoring people in a faint- ing condition by letting them use it as a smelling bottle. Ammonia Water is quite a differ- ent remedy, and is not for internal use. It is good for insect bites of any kind. Tincture of Arnica is used for bruises, wounds, and cuts. Cloths wet with it and applied to bruises are valuable helps. Witch-hazel likewise is helpful as HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY 649 a lotion for sprains, wounds, and* contusions. Spirits of Camphor is also valuable for smelling purposes and for in- flammations. The internal dose is 1 to SO drops on sugar. It is good to overcome gas in the bowels. Bicarbonate of Soda, namely bak- ing soda — not washing soda — ^is a good powder for burns and is an antidote for acid poisoning of any kind. Vaseline is a salve which can be put to many uses in treating burns, wounds, chafing, and scalds. Antiseptic Solution. — In addition to the above it is very important to have a good antiseptic wash with which to cleanse wounds of all kinds. Carbolic Acid Solution is good in the strength of 1 part of carbolic acid to 25 of water. Corrosive Sublimate is good, but there is more danger from poison, as it contains mercury. Tablets can be secured from druggists which can be used in a pint or quart of water, ac- cording to the strength. There are a number of popular prepared anti- septic solutions, such as listerine, which are very convenient to have in the house for ready use. In addition to the above, a few roll bandages of various sizes should be secured as well as adhesive plaster and a good-sized package of steril- ized absorbent cotton. In a camp, or in places where accidents occur fre- quently, this should be supplemented by some splints of pliable wood. Good, complete first-aid outfits, con- taining most of the above, can be se- cured from such firms as Johnson & Johnson, of New Brunswick, N. J., or from the National First Aid to the Injured Society of Boston, or the New York First Aid Society of New York City. FOISOKS AND THUIB ANTIDOTES In treating this important subject, much could be said, but as It might prove confusing, I shall try and condense the information in the smallest possible space and make my suggestions very simple and clear. In cases of poisoning, one must act quickly and keep cool. If the person affected is unconscious, an empty bot- tle or burns upon the mouth may re- veal the cause of poisoning. There are several things to be done in the treatment of poisoning: (1) Eliminate the poison from the stom- ach; (2) neutralize the poison by giv- ing an antidote; (3) treat the gen- eral symptoms produced by the poisoning. Get these three things clear in the mind in acting. The material is eliminated by being vomited. Vomiting can be induced in the following ways: use mustard and warm water, beginning with a glassful and repeating if necessary. If ipecac is in the house — and it is a good thing to have it about — give about a teaspoonful of sirup of ipecac to a child or a tablespoonful to a growli person every few minutes until vomiting is induced. Tickling the throat by inserting the fore- finger in it usually brings quick re- sults. In irritating poisons, like car- bolic or mercury, it is wise not to produce vomiting, owing to the lac- erated condition of the walls of the stomach. In most instances, how- ever, it is wise to Induce vomiting. Frequently the poison itself pro- duces it. Antidotes. — In nearly all cases of poisoning, olive oil, if available, can be given in large doses, namely, a pint or more, as it neutralizes most poisons except phosphorus. This can be followed by the whites of two eggs. When in doubt, use the oil fol- lowed by the eggs. In giving antidotes, two general principles should be observed: name- ly, that acids tend to neutralize alka- lies and alkalies neutralize acids. For poisoning from acids, such as muriatic, oxalic, acetic, sulphuric (oil of vitriol), nitric, or tartaric, use soapsuds, magnesia, limewater, whit- ing, plaster scraped from the wall, milk, oil, and baking soda. Also by vomiting. In feeding the patient, do 650 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES so by the rectunij as the stomach will be sore. For poisoning from alkalies, such as ammonia, potash, or soda, use acids as an antidote, such as vinegar, lemon juice, and orange juice, fol- lowed by large doses of olive oil, cas- tor oil, and emetics. Another group of poisons are the narcotics. In this class are chloro- form, chloral, ether, and the opium preparations, such as opium, mor- phine, laudanum, paregoric, and soothing sirups. Provide plenty of fresh air, induce artiiicial breathing, apply ammonia to nostrils, give ca- thartics and stimulants, such as cof- fee, brandy, and strychnine. Compel the patient to move about. If uncon- scious, keep head low. The following poisons are men- tioned specifically with their treat- ment: Carbolic Acid and Creosote. — Use powdered chalk, Epsom salts, white of egg, milk, glycerin, and oil. Empty the stomach. Alcohol (Treatment). — Keep the patient active by pinching, slapping with wet towel, or hot and cold douches to head and spine; give plenty of strong coffee; inhale am- monia cautiously, and use artificial respiration if unconscious. Poisonous Mushrooms (Toad- stools). — Give emetics, castor oil, stimulants, and apply heat. Use same treatment for poisoning caused by eating mussels or fish. Belladonna (Deadly Nightshade). — This drug is contained in cough mixtures, liniments, ointments, and plasters. Its active principle, atropine, is used in eye ointments and washes. Treatment. — Give emetics, stimu- lants, apply warmth to extremities and mustard plaster to feet. If in- sensible, use artificial respiration. Foxglove (Digitalis). — Give emet- ics, strong tea, apply mustard plaster over the heart and calves of the legs, and give stimulants. Phosphorus. — Poisoning frequently occurs as the result of sucking or swallowing the heads of matches. Treatment. — Give emetics, followed by magnesiei, white of egg, and olive oU. Zinc. — Bicarbonate of soda (bak- ing powder) in water, milk, eggs, strong tea, or warm drinks. Tartar Emetic (Antimony or Stib- ium). — Give warm water freely, and stimulants, strong tea, or coffee. Ap- ply heat. Corrosive Sublimate (Bichloride of Mercury). — This substance is used in solution and tablet form for disin- fection as a surgical antiseptic, etc. It is a highly active and dangerous poison. Treatment. — If seen immediately after swallowing, give an emetic; also at once abundant doses of white of egg, milk, mucilage; or mix up an arrowroot gruel, barley water, or ilour and water, and give all that the patient will swallow. lead (Red Lead, Sugar Lead, White Lead, Paints). — These poisons cause cramps, paralysis, convulsions, giddiness, stupor. Cause vomiting, give large doses of Epsom or Glauber salts, apply mus- tard plaster to extremities, and give stimulating drinks. In acute attacks of lead colic the same treatment may be pursued, except to omit the vom- iting. Prussio Acid, a violent poison, is sometimes taken by children in eat- ing the pits of stone fruits or bitter almonds, which contain it. The anti- dote is to empty the stomach by an emetic and give water of ammonia. Apply cold water all over the body, followed by warm-hand friction. Ap- ply a bottle of smelling salts to the nose, dash cold water on the face, and give stimulants, as whisky, etc. Vegetable Poisons. — Known or un- known herbs such as hellebore, bitter- sweet, poke berries, hemlock, James- town weed, tobacco, etc. The most of these cause vomiting, intoxication, stupor, etc. It is a safe rule to cause vomiting, give warm drinks, and stimulants. Iodine or lodofonn. — Give freely starch or flour mixed in water, chalk, HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY 651 magnesia, and stimulants, if neces- sary. Blue Vitriol, Blue Stone {Sulphate of Copper). — Copper poisoning, due to substances which have been cooked in copper vessels. Give large drinks of warm water, emetic; raw eggs, milk, stimulants. Nux Vomica (Strychnine). — Strong tea, animal charcoal, inhalations of chloroform or ether, artificial respi- ration. Aconite. — This drug is commonly found in liniments and ointments. Give emetics; use stimulants, ammo- nia, and brandy ; apply warmth to ex- tremities; mustard plaster over heart and calves of legs. If unconscious, use artificial respiration. Arsenic. — This is a frequent cause of poisoning. It is found in insect powders, rat poison, and Paris gteen, and is also used in coloring wall pa- per and artificial flowers. Give emetics promptly; large amounts of magnesia, lime scraped from the walls or ceilings, castor oil, sweet oil, or equal parts of sweet oil and limewater, or limewater alone, raw eggs, milk, stimulants. Dialyzed iron may be obtained at nearly every drug store. This is a prompt and perfect antidote to ar- senic. Another class of poisons is known as the Irritating Gases — carbonic acid, chlorine, nitrous acid, and hy- drochloric acid. To overcome the ef- fect from these gases provide plenty of fresh air, inhalations of ammonia, ether, the vapor of hot water, or if handy inhale amyl nitrite or nitro- glycerin. Produce artificial respira- tion if unconscious. Note. — Poison ivy, snake bite, etc., are treated under " Poisonous Wounds." See page 655. FAIHTIITG Loss of consciousness often causes considerable alarm, and, in fact, should not be treated as a light mat- ter, because it may be a preliminary to a grave illness. The first thing to discover in the case of insensibility is the cause. No- tice the surroundings. The condition may be due to a fall, fright, loss of blood, drunkenness, or poisoning. Convulsions would suggest epileptic fits, hysteria, or kidney disease. If, however, the cause of the injury is known, then a systematic examina- tion of the body should be made. The presence of a wound or bruise or bleeding would throw light upon the cause. Examine the eyes. If they are sensitive to the touch, brain in- juries may be eliminated. If the pu- pils are contracted, it is indicative of opium poisoning, while unequal con- traction is a sign of brain lesions. If the face be drawn to one side, it would suggest paralysis. A bloated face or the odor of liquor would be the sign of intoxication. Treatment. — Lay the patient on his back. If the face is white and blood- less, have his head lower than his body. Let him have plenty of fresh air. Loosen the clothing. Apply cold water to the face. This in most cases will bring a return to conscious- ness. Aromatic spirits of ammonia is a good thing to use as a smelling salts and to give internally when con- sciousness returns. The above treatment is applicable in all cases of simple fainting due to weakness, mental emotions, and close, warm atmosphere of crowds. In the event of fainting from shock following an accident, there may be more marked symptoms, such as cold- ness of the skin, dilatation of the pupils, and weak heart action. In addition to the above treatment, the skin should be rubbed briskly, bleeding, if any, controlled, wounds dressed, and broken bones bound up. Hot-water bottles, flatirons, or plates should be applied to the extremities. Hot coflFee is a good stimulant. The temperament of the injured person is an important factor in de- termining the amount of shock. Some people go into hysterics over a very simple thing. I have known people to faint at the very sight of blood. 652 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES One experience comes to my mind of a young lady who was the sweetheart of a member of a volmiteer regiment. He had violated some rule of the regiment and was placed in the guard- house for twenty-four hours as a penalty. The young lady was told of the circumstance, and was so over- come that she fell in a dead faint. She was picked up from the street and carried into a store. Seizing a glass of water from the counter in the store, I soaked a handkerchief in it and applied it to her face. She im- mediately revived. She seemed com- posed for a time, but suddenly she seemed overwhelmed with the terrible thought that her lover was impris- oned behind iron bars unjustly, and that she would not be able to see him nor hear his familiar voice for twen- ty-four long hours. She ran down the street toward the armory, but fell in a dead faint in the middle of the car tracks. I rushed out, and dragged her from in front of a rap- idly approaching car. Again I ap- plied the wet cloth, and she imme- diately revived. This time I held on to her wrist and gave her a good talking to. This proved a very ef- fective means of treatment. Stunning. — A condition of the mind extending from bewilderment to insensibility, due to shaking of the brain by sudden violence. Concus- sion of the brain. Pilcher mentions three varieties: (1) Slight Stunning. — After a blow or fall, the patient is confused and pale, and the pulse weak for a few moments. Treatment; Rest, lying down, and apply wet cloth to head. (2) Moderate Stunning. — Patient insensible and immovable, skin cold, pulse weak, eyes closed, pupils con- tracted. May be aroused, but returns to unconsciousness. Then comes a period of returning consciousness and restlessness; vomiting often oc- curs on return to consciousness. Treatment: Rest, lying down, quiet of body. Apply heat to -feet and low- er part of body, and cold to head. (3) Severe Stunning. — Serious, Pa- tient cannot be aroused. Pulse very weak and irregular. Skin cold and clammy. Recovery is very slow, and death often occurs. Liability to ex- cessive reaction and complication of congestion of the brain. No stimulants of any kind are to be given where the brain is af- fected. In all cases of complete shock, such as may come from those cases men- tioned in this and other articles, and in cases of apoplexy and compression of brain, the treatment outlined above should be pursued. The pa- tient must be kept quiet, placed in a comfortable position, the head kept cool, and the extremities warm. This to be done until the physician arrives, who should be called immediately. Insensibility from Sunstroke. — The attack is usually preceded by giddiness, weakness, and nausea; eyes bloodshot and contracted; skin hot and dry; subject unconscious, breath- ing quick an^ loud; heart rapid and tumultuous. Treatment. — Place patient on back in a cool place with head raised. The chief object is to reduce his excessive heat. Remove clothing, pour cold water all over the body. Pilcher says to hold the vessel four or five feet above the patient and pour first on the head, then on the chest and abdo- men, and then on the extremities, and to repeat until conscious. Bags of cracked ice may be applied to the head and under armpits. The patient should be wrapped in cold sheets or placed in a tub containing cold water. Continue until patient is conscious or the heat greatly diminished. Repeat if symptoms return. In prostration from excessive heat — not sunstroke — ^place the patient on his back, with his head on a level with his body, and loosen clothing. Apply heat to the surface of the body and extremities. Bathe the face with warm water into which a little alco- hol or whisky has been poured. In prostration from drinking too much ice water when overheated, loosen clothing, place on back with head HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN £m£RGENCY 653 slightly elevated, give hot drinks, apply heat to the spine and the ex- tremities. Don't give any alcoholic stimulants. Tea, coffee, or warm milk may be used. In exhaustion from heat due to hard work and confinement in close, hot atmosphere, cover the body with blankets and apply heat to the ex- tremities. Send for a physician. Electricity Accidents. — Proceed as follows :,(1) Shut off the current or release the injured person from con- tact with it. (2) Don't touch the person affected or the live wire with the bare hands. If rubber shoes and gloves can be secured, well and good. Stand on a dry board and cover the hands with woolen cloths or paper. If a tool of any kind is used, it should have a wooden handle. After shutting off the current, lay the patient down, keep him warm, and apply artificial respiration. Ligbtning Accidents. — To prevent accident: (1) Avoid standing under trees to escape from the rain during a thunder storm, but boldly expose yourself to the wet; it will preserve you from the lightning. (2) Avoid standing close to any metallic bodies, as lead pipes or iron railings, etc. (3) When indoors during a thunder storm, sit or stand as near to the middle of the room as convenient. Avoid standing at the window or sit- ing near the wall. HOW TO TEEAT A BETJISE OE SFEAIK A bruise is a wound under the skin and is usually caused by blows, falls, squeezes, or pinches. Bruises are often referred to as black-and-blue spots. The part affected swells, then changes color, at first red, then blue, fading out to a greenish brown, and, lastly, to a dirty jellow. Severe cases may be accompanied by symp- toms of shock. Where the case is severe, treatment should be admin- istered by a physician. The best treatment, in my judg- ment, is the application of hot water to the parts. While it is true that very cold and hot water act pretty much the same, yet my experience in the treatment of bruises has led me to have greater faith in hot water. It relieves the soreness, contracts the blood vessels, assists in carrying off the collected venous blood, and di- minishes the inflammation. Just a word about the proper way to apply the hot water. Most per- sons, as a rule, apply a towel wrung out in hot water; when it cools, they remove it, leaving the part exposed while they are renewing the towel. This is not the most effective way, as the wound is chilled between appli- cations. The way to get the best results is to have two or three towels in service. While one is applied to the wound, the other is made ready; the removal of the one being followed immedi- ately by the application of the other. In this way the hot water is kept on the bruised parts continuously, giv- ing the best results. The next step is absolute rest. The part should be bandaged in such a way that it is kept absolutely quiet. Frequent bathing with tincture of arnica, camphor, and witch-hazel will assist in reducing the swelling and in promoting absorption. Where the bruise involves a large area, or has been severe, the softer tissues may be seriously involved, and in such cases surgical interfer- ence is necessary. The above treatment pertains to the bruise with which we have to deal most frequently. The same treat- ment is applicable in most cases of sprain, except that bandaging occu- pies a more important place. The foot should be immersed in a bucket of hot water and more hot water added from time to time, so that it can be kept as hot as can be borne for fifteen or twenty minutes, after which a firm bandage should be ap- plied and the foot elevated. In sprains of the wrist, a straight piece of wood should be used as a splint, covered with cotton or wool 654 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES to make it soft, and lightly bandaged and the arm carried in a sling. Treat as other woimds. Do not probe for the bullet. Usually there is considerable shock accompanying the accident. In severe cases apply warm blankets and heat to the ex- tremities and spine by means of hot irons or hot bottles. Hot drinks should be given. It seems needless to suggest that a surgeon should be sent for immediately. IBEATMENI OF SPECIAL FABTS Rupture of Varicose Veins. — Ele- vate the limb, loosen garters, and ap- ply bandage below the wound and also over It. Blood clots help to stop the bleeding and should not be re- moved. Bleeding of Hand, Wrist, or Arm. — Elevate the arm. In arterial bleed- ing, make pressure on the inner side of the arm, midway between the el- bow and the armpit. Forearm. — Raise the forearm above the head. In addition to the pressure on the wound or above it, place a hard pad, such as a small bottle or stick, in the front of the elbow, then bend the forearm at the elbow and bandage firmly to the upper arm. Fingers. — Pressure may be made at the wrist by using a rubber band. If a single finger is affected, a band on the finger, close to the hand, will sufSce. Palm of Hand. — A hard, round ob- ject, like a billiard ball or a hard apple covered with gauze, grasped tightly in the hand will prova effect- ive in stopping the hemorrhage. The hand can be bound down upon the ball. Armpit. — Pack the armpit with a hard substance, such as a rolled or knotted towel, and then press the arm upon it; or if the latter is severed, bind the material tight to parts by running a bandage about the body or shoulder. Pressure should be made upon the artery which lies back of the collar bone. Thigh and legs. — In bleeding of the lower limb, pressure should be made on the inner side of the thigh near the groin, over the femoral ar- tery. This can easily be found. Pres- sure can be made by the fingers, elas- tic bands, or tourniquet. Remember always that such pressure must not be kept on too long. Bleeding below the knee can also be arrested by placing a stick back of the knee and doubling the leg back upon it tightly, binding it vidth a bandage. Elevation of the leg assists in over- coming the blood flow in all wounds of the lower leg. Nosebleed. — Packing the nose with gauze usually is effective in severe cases. If bleeding continues, summon a surgeon. Internal Bleeding. — Apply iced cloths to abdomen. Have the patient lie quietly. If faint, lower head. If bleeding is from lungs or stomach, give lumps of ice and apply iced cloths to chest or stomach. In ac- cidents, bleeding from tongue or cut lips may sometimes deceive one, and it may be thought to come from the lungs or stomach. The mouth should be examined carefully. It seems needless to remind one that in inter- nal bleeding a surgeon should be sent for at once. Bleeding of Neck and Face. — Bleeding of the neck is very danger- ous, as it is near the large trimk blood vessels. Pressure with the thumb should be made at the base of the neck, outside the windpipe and near the collar bone. Make the pressure against the spine. For bleeding of the face, pressure can be made un- derneath the lower jawbone. A little notch can be found about midway between the chin and back part of the jaw, on its lower portion, through which this artery passes and which supplies the face. Pressure on it shuts off the supply. Bleeding of the Temple can be readily suppressed by pressure on the temporal artery, which can read- ily be seen on the outer side of the forehead. HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY 655 Scalp. — Bleeding of the scalp can easily be stopped, usually by direct pressure upon the bleeding point. Chest and Abdomen. — All that can be done is to apply direct pressure by means of a large supply of gauze, holding it there with the hand until surgical help comes, or possibly bind- ing it on the wound by rimning the bandage about the body. CVTS AND SCBATCHES For ordinary cuts and scratches precaution should be taken to wash the part with an antiseptic solution. It is good to have collodion in the house, or handy, and apply to such abrasions, thus excluding dirt and making a bandage needless. FOISOITED WOTTNOS Insect Bites. — For mosquito bites, stings from gnats, wasps, bees, and spiders, ammonia is the best treat- ment. Oil may follow, or the parts washed in salt water. Baking soda dissolved in warm water is also good. The sting should be removed. Ben- zine is said to be good for bites of harvest bugs. Camphor is a good preventive of bug and gnat bites. Snake Bite. — Act quickly.' When bitten by a snake the first thing to do is to prevent the poison from get- ting into the general circulation. This can be done by immediately sucking the wound. Precaution must be used in seeing that the mouth is not sore or the poison swallowed. Shut off the circulation from the part by bandaging the limb — ^if such it be — ^tightly, or if in another part, by pressure over the vein. Open the woimd with a knife blade and let the blood flow freely, and squeeze the poison out. Some advise use of a cupping glass. Wash the wound with an antiseptic. If a caustic can be had, burn out the wound with it. This can be done also with a hot iron. Keep the bandage on several hours, and when releasing it do so gradu- ally. Whisky is recommended as a stim- ulant. Dog Bite. — The same treatment as used for snake bite can be used for dog bite. People frequently get very much excited over a bite from a dog. Hydrophobia is rare. I would advise, if the dog shows no signs of being mad, that it be not killed, but penned up and watched. This will, if the dog is normal, relieve the patient and his friends from anxiety. Later, when the patient's condition is ab- solutely known, such measures may be taken with the dog as may assure the protection of society. In cities where antihydrophobia serum is pro- vided, this may be used as a preven- tive measure. All animal and rodent bites should receive the same attention as has been recommended for dog bites. POISON IVY AND POISON OAK Sumac, Etc. — ^When poisoned from these plants an irritating rash ap- pears and is frequently accompanied by a painful swelling of the parts affected. A strong solution of bak- ing soda is good. Zinc ointment is also recommended, or in the absence of these plain vaseline is good. Sev- eral authorities recommend battling the parts two or three times a day with sweet spirits of niter. foreign Bodies in the Nose. — Blow the nose hard while holding the opposite nostril closed. Excite sneez- ing by tickling the nose or by giving snuff. Instruct the patient to take a full breath and close the mouth, then give a sharp blow on the back be- tween the shoulders. The best way to remove a foreign body is with a syringe, but this should be done by an experienced physician. Foreign Bodies in the Throat.— An obstruction can generally be car- ried down by swallowing pieces of bread or potato slightly masticated, or, better still, a raw egg, fresh from the shell and with its original con- sistency broken as little as possible. Slapping on the back sometimes 656 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES helps. Sometimes the obstruction will go down too far to be reached by the fingers. In such cases copious draughts of water should be swal- lowed rapidly, and if this fails to re- move it, give mustard water, or any other emetic. Should vomiting fail to bring up the obstruction, then me- chanical means must be tried. Take a long spoon, bend it slightly, make the patient throw his head well back, and push the handle boldly down the throat. If it is kept well to the back of the throat no harm can be done. The same operation may more conveniently be performed by a bit of sponge attached to a piece of whalebone. Occasionally, sub- stances will get into such a position in the throat as to necessitate a surgical operation. BUBNS Burns are caused by contact with fire, the rays of the sun, very hot bodies, or chemicals. Pilcher divides them into three classes, according to their degree of severity: (1) Mere painful redness; (2) formation of blisters; (3) charring. In severe burns there may be considerable de- struction of tissue and great shock. To treat a burn: first remove the clothing by cutting it away with a pair of scissors. If it sticks, do not pull it off, but flood it with oil. If blisters are present, let the water out by pricking them with a needle after passing it through a flame to sterilize it. Take care not to break the blisters, so as to avoid exposing the tender surface to the air. Promptly exclude the air by apply- ing a compress wet with water, in which is dissolved a liberal amount of baking soda. Apply any oil, such as olive oil, sweet oil, fresh lard, un- salted butter, vaseline, etc. One of the best oils to use is a solution of equal parts of linseed oil and lime- water. In the absence of oil, dust boric acid over it or apply clay. Cover the wound with cotton or some soft ma- terial. If the wound is wet, always see to it that oil has been used freely before using cotton, as when dry the latter will stick and reopen' the burned surface when an attempt is made to remove it. Burns caused by acids should be thoroughly washed with water, then with a solution of baldng soda and water, and then treated like an ordi- nary burn. Burns caused by alkalies, such as caustic potash, caustic soda, or am- monia, should be washed with vinegar or some other dilute acid. Treat shock as explained under " Fainting." Cover severe burns as quickly as possible, so as to exclude the air. An application shovdd be ready to apply immediately. Do not expose the wound, as it may prove fatal. If burn is extensive, dress but a small portion at a time. The bicarbonate of soda and oils are best applied by dipping cloths into them, ointments by spreading on cloths and then applying. In burns of the mouth or throat, apply the oil or white of an egg by drinking them. If caused by chemi- cals, the mouth and throat should be rinsed by the proper antidote — ^vine- gar or dilute acid in case of caustic soda, potash, ammonia, or lye, and a solution of baking soda for acid burns. In severe burns summon physician at once, as there may be considerable destruction of tissue and danger of great shock. Burns often heal slowly, and are frequently attended by fear- ful scars and deformity. Sunburn is a burn of the first de- gree and should be treated as such. A person whose clothing is burn- ing should be made to lie down — ^if necessary, thrown down — as the tend- ency of the flames is to rise upward. When the patient is lying down the flames have less to feed on, and there is not so much danger of their reach- ing the face or inhaling the fumes. The person should be quickly wrapped in a shawl or blanket of HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY 657 wool, not cotton, and the fire smoth- ered by pressing on the burning part. BLEEDING To be efficient in stopping a hemor- rhage it is necessary to know that blood comes from two sources, name- ly, arteries and veins. It must also be remembered that blood in an ar- tery comes from the heart, and that blood in a vein is on its way to the heart. Thus, in stopping the bleeding from an artery, pressure must be made between the heart and the wound, while in bleeding from a vein pressure must be made on the distant side of the wound. It is not difficult to determine whether the bleeding is from an ar- tery or a vein, as in an artery the blood spurts and pulsates, while blood from a vein oozes and flows without pulsation in a steady stream. Bleeding from an artery, especially one of considerable size, is very se- rious, and prompt efforts must be made to stop it. General Kules for Treatment. — Send for a physician immediately. Have the injured person lie down and elevate the wounded part. This can be done readily if an arm or leg is affected. Remove clothing from the affected part — ^it may be neces- sary to cut it off. Keep the patient as quiet as possible. Apply pressure direct upon the bleeding point by pressing the finger, covered with gauze, upon it. If the bleeding is from an artery, make pressure above the wound, that is, between it and the heart. This can be done with an elas- tic band, a pair of elastic suspenders, or tightly wound bandages. In se- vere cases a tourniquet must be used. This can be made by first strapping the limb with a bandage, making a knot in it, which should be placed at a point above the wound directly over the artery supplying the bleeding point. The artery can be located with the index finger, as its pulsa- tions can be detected. When the knot is made, a loop should be made also directly over it, through which a small stick can be placed. This c^ be twisted, and thus pressure is brought to bear upon the artery un- til the bleeding ceases. The bleed- ing point must be watched in the event that the flow may recur. Such a tourniquet must not be left on the arm or leg for too long a time. In minor wounds the bleeding will be ar- rested in IS to 20 minutes, when the pressure can be reduced. In severe cases of bleeding, apply cold by means of ice bandages; in ordinary bleeding, pressure by means of gauze upon the wound is sufficient to stop it. In excessive bleeding, general treat- ment of the patient is needful. The patient may faint or become very weak. In the latter case heat should be applied to the extremities and blankets secured. To overcome the fainting, see directions for this pur- pose. After the bleeding has stopped, treat as a wound. Apply gauze which has been saturated in a mild antisep- tic solution, then apply absorbent cotton and dress with bandages. Ab- solute cleanliness must be observed. There are some popular ideas that cobwebs, tobacco, and salves are good to stop bleeding. They should never be used, as they may cause blood poi- soning. DISLOCATIONS In dislocations the patient cannot move the limb; there is deformity, shortening, and pain. It is usually an easy matter to diagnose a disloca- tion, whereas it is often very difficult to always detect a fracture. Treatment. — Send for a physician immediately, and while awaiting his arrival place the patient in as com- fortable a position as possible. Sup- port the injured part with pillows or bandages, and apply hot towels to the part to reduce the pain and in- flammation. Dislocations are not so serious if reduced immediately before inflammation has begun seriously. 658 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Long delay makes the work of ad- justment very hard, and in severe cases the swelling must be reduced before the dislocation can be treated. Yet, while this is true, unskilled handling may prove very serious, and where it is possible to secure a sur- geon the dislocation had better re- main untouched until his arrival. Where, however, a surgeon cannot be secured for several hours, an attempt may be made to correct the disloca- tion, and a few hints are given how to act. The most common dislocation, no doubt, is that of the fingers. This occurs very frequently in games of baseball. Often the first joint of the finger is thrown out of place and is turned upward and backward. The first act in the treatment is to grasp the tip of the finger firmly. Then in- crease slightly the deformity in order to loosen the impaction; at the same time press the dislocated end into place and pull forward firmly but not roughly. When reduced, it would be wise to use a small stick as a splint and bandage the finger, making it ab- solutely immovable. Frequent baths in water as hot as can be borne will help to soothe and heal. A very embarrassing dislocation is that of the lower jaw. This occurs usually in consequence of extreme yawning or sometimes in laughing. A friend of mine, an intern in a Jew- ish hospital, was called several times each week to a home for the Jewish, to reduce the dislocation of the lower jaw of an old Hebrew who had the happy faculty of dislocating his jaw at very frequent intervals and often at very inopportxme times. We are surprised that this occurs as fre- quently as it does, but really it is still more remarkable that it does not oc- cur with greater frequency among the members of the opposite sex, es- pecially at the high-school age. Where such an accident occurs the victim is found with his mouth wide open, with the saliva dripping from its corners, and unable to speak dis- tinctly. To reduce the inflammation, wind a handkerchief thickly around both thumbs, padding them well, to avoid injury by the sudden closing of the mouth when reduced. Place the thumbs on each side of the lower jaw, inside the mouth , and as far back as possible. Then press firmly downward and backward, when the jaw will be felt to slip into place. When in place, bandage to hold in position. FRACTTTBES Broken Bones. — ^A layman should not attempt to set a bone. For gen- eral purposes we recognize two kinds of broken bones: First, those which do not break through the skin and, second, those in which the bones do protrude through the skin. The tiling to do in a fracture is make the injured person comfortable, and keep the injured part perfectly at rest. Handle the fractured limb very carefully, cut off the clothing, lay the limb on a splint, placing enough cotton or soft material un- derneath the injured part to make it comfortable, then bandage lightly to prevent the edges of the bones from moving upon one another. In compound fractures, dress the wound and cover with gauze, cotton, and a bandage. In a fractured hand the splint should extend from the elbow beyond the lingers. Remember to pad the splint, having a thick wad of padding under the palm of the hand. Place the arm in a sling. In fracture of a finger a splint should be placed against the finger on the palmar surface and extended from tip of finger to the wrist Pad the splint and bind to the finger, and support it by placing the arm in a sling. A broken wrist should have a splint extending well up the forearm. Broken Forearm. — Usually both bones are broken. I would advise placing two splints padded evenly with plenty of cotton, on the arm HEALTH HINTS— WHAT TO DO IN EMERGENCY 659 from elbow to tips of fingers, then bandage and place In sling. Upper Ann Fracture. — Place splints on each side of the arm and bandage to the body. If the fracture is high up toward the armpit, place a pad of folded lint in the armpit and extend imder the arm; then bind the upper arm to the side of the chest and place the elbow in a sling. In fractures of the collar bone or shoulder blade, bring the hand up across the chest to the opposite shoul- der, and bandage the arm to the chest. In fracture of the ribs, if it is nec- essary to move the patient, strap the affected side with strips of adhesive plaster from the spine to the chest bone. In fracture of the jaw, put the bones in place and bind a bandage across the head, relieving the bones of all strain. All that can be done in fracture of the nose is to pack the nose with gauze and stop the bleed- ing. SBOWirilTO (1) Loosen clothing, if any. (2) Empty lungs of water by laying the body on its stomach and lifting it by the, middle so that the head hangs down. Jerk the body a few times. (3) Pull tongue forward, using hand- kerchief, or pin with string, if neces- sary. (4) Imitate motion of respira- tion by alternately compressing and expanding the lower ribs, about twen- ty times a minute. Alternately rais- ing and lowering the arms from the sides up above the head will stimulate the action of the lungs. Let it be done gently, but persistently. (S) Apply warmth and friction to ex- tremities. (6) By holding tongue forward, closing the nostrils, and pressing the "Adam's apple" back (so as to close entrance to stomach), direct inflation may be tried. Take a deep breath and breathe it forcibly into the mouth of patient, compress the chest to expel the air, and repeat the operation. (7) Don't give up I People have been saved after hours of patient, vigorous effort. (8) When breathing begins, get patient into a warm bed, give warm drinks, or spir- its in teaspoonfuls, fresh air, and quiet. FBONE FBESSUBE UETHOO A new method of producing arti- ficial respiration has recently been discovered by the noted physiologist. Dr. E. A. Shaefer. He calls it the " prone pressure method " because the patient lies at full length face down, and pressure is made with the hands of the operator on the back over the lower ribs, and then relaxing the pressure. This is continued al- ternately about twelve times a min- ute. Thus the air is forced out and sucked in, making a frequent ex- change of air in the lungs. The ad- vantages mentioned for this method are that it is very efBcient, is ex- ceedingly simple, can be done by one person and without fatigue, and that because of the position of the pa- tient allows the tongue to fall for- ward and the mucus and the water to escape from the mouth and thus not block up the throat. CHAPTER XXVI WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO DO Isabel Gordon Curtis WHAT AN INVALID MAY EAT— WHAT AN INVALID MAY DRINK — PROVEN "HOME REMEDIES " — HOT WEATHER CARE OF INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN When a rubber hot-water bag is not at hand, a very good substitute is a stone bottle with a perfectly tight cork. The hottest water can be put into it without fear of crack- ing, and it will retain heat the great- er part of the night. Even a glass bottle can be used in an extremity; for occasionally, during a severe chill, a doctor orders hot applications put all around the body, and it is impos- sible always to find enough hot-water bags to supply the demand. The greatest care must be exercised in seeing that the corks are perfectly tight. If the bottles are too hot, slip them into stocking legs, tying them at each end. Simple as the task of making poul- tices is, a certain knack is needed: Mix flaxseed with boiling water, stir- ring constantly with a palette knife. When the mixture is thick enough to drop from the knife, lift it from the fire, beat well to make it light, and spread, a quarter of an inch thick, between old soft muslin or surgeon's gauze. Turn over the edges, lay it on a hot plate, cover with another plate, and carry it to the sick room as hot as possible. Before laying it on the patient, test its temperature by holding it against your own cheek. If it is too hot for you, it requires cooling before applying. When put on by degrees, as it were, letting down one small piece at a time, it will not feel as hot as if put on all at once. No poultice should re- main on longer than an hour; by that time it is not as warm as the body. After removing, wipe the skin dry, and rub the sore place with oil or vaseline. Fomentations are not easily ap- plied, unless one knows exactly how to handle them. In every household which has due care for emergencies, there ought to be a set of fomenta- tion cloths: three large ones of heavy blanket flannel, about three quarters of a yard square. These are neces- sary in cases of pain in the stomach or abdomen, or in any extended ache in the body. Smaller fomentation cloths of a thinner flannel are neces- sary in an attack of neuralgia, pain in the muscles of the neck, toothache, or pains about the head. These cloths should be about eight or ten inches square. Some a few inches smaller are handy for pain in the ears or eyes. The way to use a large fomen- tation cloth is to carry Into the sick room on a tray a kettle of water which has been taken off at the boil- ing point. Fold the large cloth four times. Hold the ends, dipping the center of the cloth into the hot water, but keeping the ends dry. Then twist the flannel into a rope-like roll until every drop of moisture is squeezed out. It will be very hot, still almost dry. Lay this on the ach- 660 WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 661 ing part of the body, folding it quite smooth, and applying it gradually, keeping the hand beneath to save from a sudden shock of intense heat. Over the fomentation cloth lay a sec- ond square of flannel, dry and warm, to keep in the heat. If this is band- aged loosely around the body, a fo- mentation cloth will retain its heat for ten or fifteen minutes. Pain may sometimes be relieved with one appli- cation. If it continues, take the other flannel square and wring from the water in the same fashion. An easy way to wring the smaller cloths used about the head is to fold them into a square and lay in a potato ricer. Dip the ricer into boiling water and squeeze the cloth dry, covering it with another flannel to keep in the heat. After these squares have been used, launder them and lay away, ready for another emergency. A very handy thing to have in the sick room is a small nursery refrig- erator; but when it cannot be ob- tained, you can keep ice with small amount of waste by a simple, home- made contrivance. Get a large flower- pot with a saucer a size or two big- ger than the pot. On the saucer set a wire trivet. Put the ice on this, and over it turn the flowerpot upside down, stopping up the hole in the bottom with a wad of absorbent cot- ton. Cover with a piece of flannel, and uncover only when ice is needed. The quietest thing to use for an ice pick is a strong hat pin; stick it in the ice, pick with a small hammer, and break off a piece as large as you want. In the summer when the range fire is allowed to go down and there is no gas stove, or where the sick room is some distance from the kitchen, it is a good plan to have some way of heating water in the sick room. Do not use a stove which burns kerosene or gasoline; in spite of utmost care, it will exude odors. The use of gas is no better, as it consumes oxygen, and it is seldom that a pipe can be attached tightly enough to prevent all odor from the gas. The best ar- rangement is an alcohol lamp. If that is not in the house, you can man- age with a five-o'clock teakettle or a chafing dish, which over a hot alcohol flame will boil a pint of water in a, few minutes. The instructions that a doctor lays down about medicine, feeding, or any sort of treatment, must be carried out to the letter. The best plan is to write his instructions concisely dur- ing every visit. If he orders medi- cine to be given every two hours, do not trust to memory, but reckon the time ahead and write it down — medi- cine at ten, twelve, two, four, or whatever the case may be. Be per- fectly accurate in measuring, using a medicine dropper for drugs and the average-sized teaspoon for a tea- spoonful. A small clock is a necessity in the sick room; but frequently its ticking will irritate a nervous patient. The best way to overcome this is to cover it with a glass shade. In this way it can be seen but not heard. Occasionally a doctor orders an application of hot spirits. This is a process which must be very carefully carried out, as the alcohol is liable to take fire. The best way to heat it is to set the whisky into a cup, put in a chafing dish, pour hot water around it, then put on the lid. Afterwards light the flame of the lamp and let the water boil gently for a few min- utes. Fold old muslin or gauze into the shape required, dip it in boiling water, and press dry in a potato ricer. Dip it again in hot whisky, squeeze as dry as possible, apply it as hot as can be borne, and cover with a piece of dry flannel. Keep the whisky hot as long as it is need- ed, and have two bits of muslin, so one can be changed while the other is on the patient. When it is necessary to change a nightshirt or nightgown, and the pa- tient is too sick to sit up in bed, draw it well up under the arms, slip off a sleeve at a time, and push it up to- ward the neck, getting it over the head as deftly as possible. Boll the 662 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES skirt of the fresh nightdress Into a coil till it reaches the sleeve, slip the patient's arm into the sleeve before lifting the head from the pillow, and the nightdress can then be pulled down over the neck very quickly, af- terwards straightening the skirt. The easiest plan in severe sickness is to have a nightdress which is open all the way down the front. It can be easily changed by turning the patient on one side and adjusting the night- dress from head to foot, then doing the same on the other side. The patient's hair should be combed twice a day at least. If it is a wom- an's, part it in the middle and back, brush and comb one side at a time, and make it into two neat braids. When a patient is allowed to sit up for the first time, it is a good idea to make it half an hour at meal time. It is much easier to eat when in a comfortable, upright position, as the food tray can then be put in a more convenient place. Besides, the nov- elty of being able to sit up and eat is apt to create a new relish for food. If it can be obtained, a handy thing to have in a sick room is a one-leg adjustable table, which can be set high or low, as needed, and be used for various needs — to serve a meal on, to place the basin on, for the pa- tient to wash his face and hands, or during convalescence to hold a book or for a game of solitaire. Although it is not quite as handy, a good sub- stitute for this useful bit of furniture is an ordinary sewing table. Unfold two legs, set it on the floor beside ., the bed, leaving the other legs tucked ' under. To prevent the weight of the table from resting upon the pa- , tient's body, put a couple of props I under it on the bed. If nothing else / is handy, a few books or wooden •' blocks will serve to keep it steady. Occasionally, the doctor orders an ice compress for the head. To make it, fold two large handkerchiefs (to be used alternately) so they will not be so wide as to come over the eyes or wet the hair or pillows, and turn in the edges. Put a block of ice with a little water about it in a basin, wring out a handkerchief and lay it on the ice till very cold; then apply, keeping one on ice, the other on the patient's head. Occasionally, a room is situated so that it is almost impossible to let the air sweep through it as it ought with- out blowing on the patient. Ar- range a little tent by placing arotmd the invalid a low clotheshorse with three panels. Over this spread a sheet or blanket. If the air is very cold, put a hot bottle at the feet and cover the lower part of the body with extra clothing. In this way there will be no danger of the patient catching cold. The Medicine Closet. — Even in the household where every member is strong and healthy, there ought to be in reserve all sorts of simple medi- cines and emergency requirements, which are ready at the moment need- ed. The medicine closet should be high enough to be out of the reach of children's hands. If made of wood, enamel it white inside and out, thus making it very easy to keep clean. Put a secure lock on the door and keep the key where it can be found instantly by anyone in the household. Divide the shelves into different departments for all sorts of needs. In one side store everything that is poisonous, or in any way dan- gerous. In another, keep rolls of an- tiseptic gauze, absorbent cotton, ster- ilized linen, bags for poultices, lint, surgeon's plaster, finger stalls, rubber bandages, and court-plaster. Reserve one shelf for such common, everyday remedies as calomel, camphor, cas- tor oil, cascara sagrada, Epsom salts, Jamaica ginger, glycerin, pare- goric, ipecac, limewater, magnesia, sweet spirits of niter, oil of pepper- mint, quinine, rhubarb, senna, sul- phonal, flowers of sulphur. Upon another keep such drugs as are used for cleansing wounds or bruises and healing burns, also things to be used in cases of emergency, as alcohol, bo- Tacic acid, alum, carbolic acid, arnica, borax, charcoal, collodion, witch-hazel. WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 663 iodoform, turpentine, dioxygen, lis- terine, and peroxide. There ought to be a corner for poultice and plaster necessities. There one would find mustard, flaxseed, oil silk, bran, lin- seed meal, and antiphlogistine. Here, too, have small supplies kept together of such things as might have to be looked for in different parts of the house: carbonate of soda, ammonia, whisky and brandy, olive oil, sweet oil, camphorated oil, limewater, and oil liniment. Save every morsel of old linen as it comes from the laundry, for emergencies. Cut it into strips two to three inches wide and join them, laying one end upon the other, and sewing around the edge. Cut off rav- elings, then begin at one end and roll up. Make as many of these rolls as wiU go into a wide-mouthed fruit j ar. Fill the top with absorbent cotton, set the jar upon a trivet in a kettle of cold water deep enough to have the water come nearly to the neck, and allow it to come almost to the boiling point. The jar vdll need a weight laid across the top to hold it steady. Keep the water about 180° F. for three hours. Lift off the ket- tle, and let stand until water becomes cold. Then take the jar dut, screw on the top tightly, wipe, and put away. The linen will then be so per- fectly sterilized that in using it there will be no possible danger of infect- ing a fresh wound. Save old pocket handkerchiefs and bits of soft linen and lawn for poultice bags, making them of different sizes — some as large as an eight-inch square, others just big enough to poultice a boil. Stitch them around three sides on the ma- chine, then they can be tied tightly at the neck. When they are wanted, fill the bag half full of whatever the poultice is made of arid press it into shape between the palms. When poulticing a boil, lay over it first a scrap of thin sterilized linen mois- tened with olive oil and on top of that place the hot poultice. When poultices must be applied very hot, fill three bags and keep them in the oven, where two can be kept as hot as possible. After putting the poul- tice on; cover with several folds of old flannel, which helps to retain the heat. In making mustard plasters, mix with the white of an egg instead of water, as it has all the drawing power necessary, yet it never blisters the skin. Use half mustard and half flour, then cover the top of the plas- ter with thin old linen. The Sick Boom. — Perfect ventila- tion, a sunny exposure, and, if pos- sible, a fireplace, which has much to do with keeping the air pure, are necessary for the sick room; which should be kept perfectly neat and clean in every detail. A bare fioor with a few small rugs, which can be taken up and shaken, is very much better than a carpet, or even matting. A string mop, used noiselessly about the floor, -carries away all the dirt without raising dust. The bed should be placed so the patient can be shut off from any draughts, also in a po- sition that will not allow the sun or » gas light to glare in his eyes. A sin- gle bed is far better than a double one, for various reasons. The best frame is of iron or brass with a woven wire or national spring, both of which can readily be kept clean and free from dust. It ought to be set on strong, noiseless casters, so it can be moved quietly and easily when- ever necessary. The higher the bed the better, as it is much easier for a nurse to lift a helpless patient when not obliged to bend very low. If obliged to use a double bed, try to have the patient sleep on one side during the day, leaving the other side comfortable for night. A good hair or felt mattress is a necessity, and it ought to be in one piece, as steady use of a divided mattress is liable to make it slip around and become very uncomfortable. Cotton sheets are su- perior to linen, even in summer, when coolness is desired, because cotton is not a quick producer of heat, and it does not absorb perspiration, as linen does, afterwards chilling the body. Wool blankets, light or warm, ac- 664 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES cording to the season of the year, are much better than a comfortable. A dimity covering or linen sheet is more comfortable than a heavy Mar- seilles counterpane. The pillows are better thin and narrow than thick and square. The furniture of a sick room should be as simple as possible; all heavy draperies and upholstered chairs being removed. Thin muslin curtains add to the cheerfulness, and a dark shade, if there are no outside shut- ters, is almost a necessity during long summer days, when the chamber has to be darkened during sleeping hours. A small table that is steady on its legs and light enough to be easily lifted, is a necessary article of furniture. Do not allow it, however, to get piled up with all sorts of use- less things. Keep it covered with a clean towel and reserve it for the necessary articles which should be found there: the thermometer in its glass of borax water, a pad and pen- cil, which may be needed 3uring the doctor's visit, and a movable hand screen, to use on occasions when the patient wishes to be shaded from the light. A small night lamp, which burns with a dull glow, is frequently a necessity. If sick nursing has to be done during cold weather, when artificial heat is necessary, try to al- leviate the dryness of the atmos- phere. This can be done by keeping a basin of water upon the radiator, or setting before the register a three- fold screen of cheese cloth, which should be kept constantly wet. A light screen is another sick-room ne- cessity. The best is one of plain bamboo, which does not hold dust, the panels made of some washable stuff run on rods, so they can be quickly changed for laundering. If possible, have no plumbing fixtures in a sick room, and when it opens into a bath room keep the adjoining door closed as much as possible. An excellent way to admit fresh air to a sick room in winter, when a window is near the bed, is to open it the desired height, then stretch a piece of cheese cloth over the open- ing and tack it fast. A still more convenient way is to put the cheese cloth on a small frame that will fit into this opening; it can then be re- moved at any time. A handy way to fumigate the sick room is to place a brick in a large wash basin, and on this set a baking tin containing sulphur. If the sul- phur is burned directly in the basin, you are liable to crack or break it. A valuable remedy for proud flesh, an obstinate outgrowth of flesh from small sores, consists of alum. A lump of alum is placed upon a stove just hot enough to enable it to turn to dry powder. The pow- der placed on the affected part re- peatedly and covered with a bandage can be relied upon to effect a speedy and inexpensive cure. It has never failed to cure when even the services of a physician were vainly resorted to. Another good remedy: use pow- dered resin. Apply as above; do not heat the resin, however. If there is an invalid in the family who must be fanned, have your " handy man " make wooden handles for several large palm-leaf fans. These should be longer than the stem handles, nicely polished, and nearly as large as that of a broom. The center of the stick is hollowed, then the stem of the fan is inserted and fastened firmly with glue. These handles may be made at home by using the hollow end of a window- shade roller. The wooden handle, on account of its size, does not cramp the hand as does the small stem. All winter, keep in the medicine closet a small jar of turpentine and lard, melted together in equal quanti- ties. If one shows signs of hoarse- ness, give the neck and chest a vig- orous rubbing with this homemade liniment. For jammed fingers, immerse the hand in water as hot as can be borne and rub vigorously. Do up in sweet oil or vaseline. If the bruise is on the face, apply a cloth wrung from WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 665 hot water, to prevent the blood from settling; afterwards apply the oil. A cure for eczema is to take yellow carrots, scrape them, and fry slowly in fresh lard till brown. Drain off the lard and melt in it 1 table- spoonful of powdered resin. Stir well, put in a jar, and when it is cool mix in 1 teaspoonful of sulphur. Ap- ply each day; the cure will be speedy. Castor oil will not be objectionable to children if put in a bottle with an equal quantity of pure glycerin, heat- ed, and shaken well. Each drop of oil will be coated with glycerin and rendered almost tasteless. WHAT AN IHVALID MAY EAT Sick-room diets are classified as liquid, light, and convalescent. The first consists wholly of liquid food, and is given in cases of typhoid fever and other severe illnesses. In typhoid, nothing is allowed for some time ex- cept milk, but during the run of other diseases gruels, beef tea, and broths are prescribed to keep up the strength. In fevers, a large number of cooling drinks, characterized as acid, starchy, or albuminous, are fre- quently ordered. Cocoa, hot milk, and various malt preparations are given at night to produce sleep, while occasionally doctors prescribe drinks containing rum, sherry, or brandy, when the patient is in need of such stimulation. A " light diet " is the term used for the food that is given when a patient who has been very sick is beginning to improve. It includes almost every- thing that is found in the liquid diet, and, in addition, soft-boiled eggs, soups, broths, raw oysters, toast, delicate cream soups, chicken broth, soft custard, fruit, gelatines, light puddings, and a small amount of poultry, game, or tender meat. Convalescent diet includes all the dishes which have been already spoken of, only as the patient grows stronger the amount grows a little larger day by day, and includes more nourishing foods, with a larger va- riety. Baked potatoes begin to ap- pear on the tray, beefsteak, broiled mutton chops, sweetbreads, broiled chicken, sponge cake, boiled rice, small pieces of broiled fresh fish, a slice of tender rare roast beef, and ice cream. The utmost daintiness is a neces- sity when a tray for the sick room is being set. Pood that is tempting in appearance will often create an ap- petite where none existed. You must remember that an invalid's recovery depends as much upon the diet as upon medicine. Therefore, every- thing that is taken to the sick room must be of the best quality — eggs that are really fresh laid, the best of butter, the tenderest chicken and meats, and milk that is perfectly sweet. If the physician orders food served every three hours, carry the tray into the room on the stroke of the hour. He knows when the stom- ach requires nutrition, and unless you have been sick you can never im- derstand what a terrible sinking sen- sation the patient experiences when the lunch hour is forgotten for even fifteen minutes. By making each menu just a little different from the one before, you can keep your invalid guessing. Anticipation creates appe- tite. If the tiny meal is delicately cooked and daintily served, it will probably be eaten with a, relish. Never offer a sick person as much as is required by a healthy appetite. For the most nourishing kind of beef tea, choose a piece of meat from the lower part of the round. There is more juice in a piece of the animal which has been toughened by steady exercise than in a very tender cut. If we wish to keep in the juices, the meat should be seared on the outside by exposing it to a strong heat, as in roasting, broiling, or boiling, but in this case the fiber should be re- j ected. Free from fat, put through the finest knife of the meat chopper, and cover with a pint of cold water. Heat slowly in a double boiler. In two hours the juices wiU be drawn 666 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES out and the fiber left bleached white. A square of wet cheese cloth may be doubled and spread over a strainer, and through this the chopped meat be wrung perfectly dry. The juice ought to be red. If it cooks long it will turn brown; then the albumen, which we wish to preserve in liquid form, would coagulate, taking from the beef tea most of its nutrition. If the patient objects to the un- cooked look of beef tea, serve in a red tumbler which is well heated, be- cause the liquid cannot be brought to the boiling point. Occasionally, a patient is found who has such an aversion to milk that he will not take it as a liquid. Then try to include it in the menu in every possible form, that is, if the doctor prescribes it. It can be pre- pared as junket and clabbered milk; in custards, oyster and cream soups, eggnog, gruels, milk toast, cocoa, and blancmange; in the shape of cream served with cereals and soft pud- dings, and if chilled foods are al- lowed, give ice cream. Kumiss, for which a recipe is given in another chapter, is very nutritious and easily assimilated. In fact, it can be retained by a stomach which refuses almost every other sort of nourishment. It is invaluable in dis- eases where the patient is badly ema- ciated, and in dyspepsia, chronic vomiting, and diarrhea it is especially useful. If given the last thing at night to anyone suffering from in- somnia, it often produces sleep. The recipe given in another chapter makes enough for a four-days' supply, and if it is to be steadily used, it ought to be made fresh every three or four days, as it will not keep longer. Scraped Beef. — Tack down to a meat board with a couple of skewers i pound of steak cut from the top of the round. With a sharp knife scrape it and lift off all the meaty substance, laying it on a platter. When one side is scraped bare, turn over and get all that is possible off the other side; when finished, there will be nothing left but tough fiber. Mold the scraped meat with a knife into a little cake, and broil it over the coals for a few minutes. Season with pepper and salt, and serve on buttered toast. Chicken Broth. — Cut up a small fowl, wash thoroughly, and skin it; also cut away all the fat possible. Pour over it a quart of cold water, set it back far enough on the stove to take at least half an hour to come to a boil. Simmer very gently. When the meat begins to get tender, lift it out, strip it off the bones, and put the carcass back to simmer until all the good is out of it. Allow the soup to cool, and skim off the fat. Reheat, when needed, with a little rice, and serve quite hot. A nourishing veal soup may be made from a shank of veal in the same way. Creamed Toast. — 2 slices of bread; j cupful of rice milk; J tablespoon- ful of butter; 1 teaspoonful of corn- starch; dash of salt. Toast the bread a delicate brown and butter lightly. ■ Scald the milk, thicken slightly with cornstarch, sea- son with salt, and pour over the toast. A very tasty dish of toast may be made from J cupful of clam juice, taken fresh from steamed clams, and poured without thickening over toast. Broiled Oysters. — Choose the larg- est oysters possible, pour a little water over them, and rinse in the liquor before lifting out; then drain in a napkin till dry. Dip into melted butter, then into cracker crumbs which have been seasoned with pep- per and salt, and lay them between the wires of an oyster broiler. Move gently over a clear, hot fire until the juice begins to run out. Lay them on toast and serve hot. Creamed Oysters. — I pint of oys- ters; 1 tablespoonful of butter; IJ tablespoonfuls of cornstarch; pepper and salt; 1 cupful of thin cream. Put the oysters in a bowl, add a little water, and rinse carefully, lift- ing each one out separately. Dry in a napkin. Make the cream, butter, and cornstarch into a Smooth sauce, sea- son with pepper and salt, and drop WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 667 in the oysters. Cook until they begin to curl up at the edges, then pour over buttered toast. Scalloped Oysters (Individual por- tion). — i cupful of oysters; J cupful of cracker and bread crumbs mixed ; 1 tablespoonful of butter; pepper and salt; 1 tablespoonful of cream; 1 ta- blespoonful of strained oyster liquor. Wash the oysters and lift them from the liquor. Mix the crumbs with the melted butter; scatter a. lay- er of crumbs over a deep saucer, then a layer of oysters; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with the rest of the crumbs. Pour over the cream and oyster liquor. Bake until the top is delicately browned. Serve hot. Broiled Squab. — Singe a squab, wash, and wipe dry; then with a sharp knife split it down the back from the neck to the tail. Lay it open and clean the inside; cut through at the joints, releasing the tendons. Brush over inside and out with melted butter, season with pep- per and salt, and dust with flour. Broil over a hot fire ten minutes. Serve on hot buttered toast and gar- nish the little dish prettily with pars- ley. Quail or any small bird may be cooked in the same way. Broiled Chickeu. — Prepare a ten- der chicken in the same fashion as di- rected for squab. Unless it is exceed- ingly small, half a portion will be enough to cook for an invalid; and if the appetite is only equal to very dainty meals, the tender little breast may be sufficient. Season vrith pep- per and salt, brush with melted but- ter, put in a greased broiler, and cook for twenty minutes, turning the broil- er frequently. Keep the flesh side longer over the coals than the bony portion. When the chicken is deli- cately browned, put it in a pan and set in a hot oven for ten or twelve minutes. Serve hot with toast. Creamed Chicken. — J cupful of thin cream; J tablespoonful of corn- starch; 1 tablespoonful of butter; pepper and salt; | cupful of cold chicken breast. Make a white sauce from the cream, cornstarch, butter, and sea- soning. Cut the chicken into cubes, and heat in the sauce. Serve on but- tered toast with a baked potato. The meat which is taken from the bones when preparing chicken broth may be utilized for this dish; or, if de- sired, and if the patient can digest it, it can be made into a chicken s^lad. Broiled Sweetbreads. — Before sweetbreads are prepared in any way, they have to be parboiled. When they come from the market, put them into ice water and let them stand an hour, then drop in boiling salted water to which a tablespoon- ful of lemon juice has been added. This preserves the white color of the sweetbread, and keeps the flesh firm. After cooking slowly for twenty min- utes, drop them in ice water and pull off the skin, fiber, and all waste scraps, divide into pieces, and they are ready to serve as desired. They make a very savory dish for the in- valid's tray when broiled. Do not separate them when cooking this way, but cut in slices, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush with melted but- ter, and broil a delicate brovra. Sea- son with pepper, salt, and lemon juice, and, if the doctor allows it, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Sweetbreads are delicious when creamed. When served in this way they are simply reheated in a white sauce, as directed for creamed chick- en, and poured over buttered toast. If you have a small portion left of both chicken and sweetbread, it makes a delicious dish blended with cream sauce. They are also nice re- heated in a cup of strong chicken stock with a dash of lemon juice for seasoning. Golden-rod Eggs. — Prepare a white sauce as given in the recipe for creamed chicken. Add to it the white of a hard-boiled egg, chopped. Pour this mixture over a slice of toast, and on top scatter the hard- boiled yolk rubbed into tiny strings through a sieve. Serve very hot. 668 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Egg Sandwiches. — Boil an egg hard and chop fine; add salt, mus- tard, a few drops of vinegar, and a dash of pepper for seasoning. Sof- ten i tablespoonful of butter, beat to a cream, and mix the egg with it till it is a paste. Butter slices of bread, spread on the mixture, and make into a sandwich. French Chops. — Trim from the bones of tender, little lamb chops all the fat and skin, leaving nothing but the tiny round of meat at the end. Brush with butter, dust with pepper and salt, and broil over a hot fire. Slip little paper frills on the bones, and serve with a spoon of green peas. A delicious way to cook chops for an invalid is to broil them inside paper cases. Make an envelope of thick glazed note paper and rub it with butter. Slip the chop inside. Fold the paper so there are two sheets cov- ering the meat, put the little case be- tween the wires of the broiler and move about over a clear, hot fire. If it is turned quickly and often, there will be no danger of the paper tak- ing fire. A chop ought to cook in this fashion in five or eight minutes. It is constantly basted in the butter and its own juices, and is very sweet and tender. Turn out onto a hot plate, being careful that all the gravy is saved. Chicken or birds may be cooked in the same fashion. Creamed Asparagus. — ^Wash a few stalks of asparagus and cut off the white part. Divide the tender green portion into pieces an inch long. Cook in boiling salted water until tender. Arrange on a piece of but- tered toast, seasoning with pepper and salt, and pour a little melted but- ter over it. If the invalid desires, a few tablespoonfuls of white sauce may be used instead of the butter. Gum-gluten Biscuits. — 1 cupful of self-raising gum gluten; dash of salt; 1 tablespoonful of butter; milk. Sift the dry ingredients, rub the butter into the flour, and add enough milk to make a soft dough. Roll it out, cut into little biscuits, and bake quickl3\ Bran Muffins. — 1 cupful of flour; 2 cupfuls of bran; 1 teaspoonful of Eoda; 3 tablespoonfuls of molasses; 4 tablespoonfuls of butter; IJ cupfuls of sour milk; dash of salt. Mix the dry ingredients, rub the butter between the fingers, add the molasses and sour milk; beat hard for five minutes. Pour into greased, hot pop-over irons, and bake in a quick oven. Raw-beef Sandwiches. — Meat is often served in this fashion to a pa- tient whose stomach will not retain it when cooked. Take about 2 ta- blespoonfuls of the raw meat pre- pared as described in scraped beef, season lightly with pepper and salt, spread it between two slices of but- tered bread, and toast the outside delicately. Be careful not to allow the meat to reach the edges of the bread or it may nauseate the pa- tient. Oyster Broth. — 1 pint of oysters; 1 cupful of cold water. Mince the oysters fine, put in cold water and let simmer for fifteen min- utes over a slow fire; skim, strain, and season. Clam Broth. — 6 clams; 1 cupful of boiling water; 1 teaspoonful of pow- dered cracker; 1 teaspoonful of but- ter. Let clams stand in boiling water until the shells open; drain off the liquor, add cracker, butter, and sea- soning. Tapioca. — S tablespoonfuls of Min- ute Tapioca; IJ cupfuls of boiling water; 1 cupful of cold water. Cover tapioca with cold water and let soak ten minutes; put into boiling water and boil until clear; sweeten, and add nutmeg or wine, if desired. Junket. — i cupful of milk; a few drops of Mcllhenny's Vanilla; i ta- blespoonful of sugar; J junket tab- let; grating of nutmeg. Heat the milk till lukewarm, add vanilla, sugar, and tablet, which has been dissolved in a teaspoonful of water. Mix well, pour into a sher- bert cup, cover, and stand in a warm place till the mixture jellies. Grate WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 669 nutmeg over the top, and keep in a cold place till ready to use. Invalid's Ice Cream. — i cupful of cream; J cupful of milk; IJ table- spoonfuls of sugar; J teaspoonful of Mcllhenny's "Vanilla. Mix ingredients in a baking-pow- der tin. Put on cover, set can in a pail or dish and surround with crushed ice and salt. Turn the can around often, occasionally take off the cover, scrape the cream from the sides as it freezes, and beat it well. When frozen, pour off the brine, beat cream with a spoon, pack it evenly in the can, and put on the cover. Let stand till ready to serve. Put more ice around the can if needed. Lemon Ice. — J cupful of water; J cupful of sugar; 1 lemon. Boil sugar and water together with a thin piece of lemon rind for three minutes. Cool, add lemon juice, and freeze like ice cream. Orange Ice. — J cupful of water; 2 small oranges; 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Make and freeze like lemon ice. Prune Jelly. — 1 cupful of prunes; li tablespoonfuls of gelatin; 3 table- spoonfuls of sugar. Stew prunes in sufficient water to cover them well. When tender, press through a potato ricer, add gelatin previously soaked for half an hour in a little water, return to the fire, add sugar, reheat, and pour in molds to cool. Apple and Custard. — 1 large apple; 1 tablespoonful of sugar; 1 teaspoon- ful of cornstarch; yolk of 1 egg. Pare and core apple, fill the cavity with sugar, put a little water in the bottom of a dish, and bake. Make a custard of a cupful of milk, sugar, cornstarch, and egg. Flavor to taste after boiling thick and pour around the baked apple. Use the white for a meringue. Eat cold. Slip. — 1 tablespoonful of corn- starch; 3 cupfuls of boiling water; J cupful of sugar; juice and rind of 1 lemon; white of 1 egg. Boil the cornstarch tiU thick in water, add sugar and lemon, and pour into a baking dish. Beat the white of egg with a tablespoonful of pow- dered sugar, spread on top, brown slightly, and serve cold with cold boiled custard. Egg Cream. — 2 eggs; 2 tablespoon- fuls of sugar; juice and rind of } lemon. Separate yolks from whites of eggs and beat the yolks with sugar in bowl until well mixed, then add lemon, and place bowl in a dish on the stove. Stir slowly until the mixture begins to thicken, add the beaten whites of eggs, and stir imtil it is like thick cream. WHAT AN INVAIID MAY DBINE Irish-moss lemonade. — 3 cupfuls of boiling water; J cupful of Irish moss; i cupful of lemon juice; 3 ta- blespoonfuls of sugar. Soak the Irish moss over night, then pick it over very carefully. It is generally full of sand and all sorts of foreign matter, and can never be made palatable unless it has been through a number of waters. When clean, put it in a double boiler, pour boiling water over, it, and let it steep until dissolved. Strain through a square of cheese cloth, then add the lemon juice and sugar. Serve very hot. This is one of the most soothing drinks to give a patient who is suf- fering from a sore throat or lung trouble. Grape Water.^J cupful of boiling water; 4 tablespoonfuls of grape jelly; J cupful of cold water; 1 tea- spoonful of lemon juice; 1 table- spoonful of sugar. Pour boiling water over the jelly and stir until dissolved. Then add the cold water, sugar, and lemon juice, and a piece of ice sufficient to chiU it thoroughly. Another deli- cious drink may be made in the same, way from red-currant jelly. Black- berry, baAerry, and black-currant jelly are also excellent for this re- freshing drink. Cinnamon Punch. — 1 stick of cin- namon; 1 cupful of rich milk; 3 tea- 670 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES spoonfuls of sugar; 1 teaspoonful of brandy. Put the cinnamon with the milk in a double boiler and steep till the flavor is all soaked out. Add the sugar and brandy. It may be used hot or ice cold, as desired. Barley Water. — 2 tablespoon fuls of barley; 4 cupfuls of cold water; J teaspoonful of salt. Wash the barley thoroughly and let it soak over night in cold water. In the morning set on the back of the stove where it will merely simmer, and cook for three hours. It ought to be reduced one half and be as thick as cream. Season with salt, and, if the patient likes it, a little sugar. Pour through a fine strainer, and drink hot. Oatmeal Gruel. — J cupful of oat- meal; 1 quart of cold water; 1 tea- spoonful of salt. Cook in a double boiler two hours. Press through a strainer, dilute with cream, reheat, and serve. The weU- beaten white of 1 egg or a few table- spoonfuls of thick cream stirred into the gruel adds nutrition. Cornmeal Gruel. — 2 tablespoonfuls of cornmeal; 1 tablespoonful of flour; 1 teaspoonful of salt; J cupful of cold water; 3 cupfuls of boiling hot water or mUk. Mix meal, flour, and salt; stir into the mixture enough cold milk or water to make a thin paste, and pour this into the hot milk or water. If wa- ter is used, cook one hour in a sauce- pan; if milk, three hours in a double boUer. Serve hot, diluted with cream. Egg Gruel. — 1 egg; 1 teaspoonful of sugar; 1 cupful of hot milk (not scalded); nutmeg or lemon juice to flavor. While the milk heats, beat the yolk of the egg till thick and light colored, ■the white till stiff. Stir into the yolk the other ingredients in the following order: sugar, milk, beaten white, and flavoring. Eggnog. — 1 egg; 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar; IJ tablespoonfuls of lemon juice; I or 3 tablespoonfuls of wine; nutmeg. Beat the yolk tUl thoroughly foamy; stir in the other ingredients. Nutmeg may' be omitted. Lemon Whey. — 1 pint of hot milk (not scalded); juice of 2 lemons. Add the lemon juice to the milk; when the latter has curdled, strain it through cloth. Serve the whey hot or cold in a glass. Toast Water. — 1 slice of stale bread; 2 cupfuls of boiling water; 1 slice of lemon. Have bread J-inch thick, toast brown, pour upon it boiling water, cover closely and cool; strain it. A slice of lemon may be added. Barley Water. — 2 ounces of pearl barley; 3 cupfuls of water. Wash barley in cold water, boil twenty minutes in a covered dish; strain, sweeten, and add lemon, if permitted. Apple Water. — 6 sour apples; 2 ta- blespoonfuls of sugar; 1 quart of boiling water. Slice apples, add sugar and boiling water. Cover closely and cool; strain. Bran Tea. — 2 cupfuls of bran; 1 quart of boiling water. Steep bran in water for an hour; strain, and season to taste. Lemonade. — 1 lemon; 1 tablespoon- ful of sugar. Squeeze lemon, add sugar, mix with ice water and strain; rub the rim of the glass with a slice of lemon peel and allow it to float. Egg Lemonade. — 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar; 1 egg; 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water; 1 lemon. Beat sugar and egg thoroughly, then mix cold water and the lemon juice; put chipped ice in the glass, and fill with ice water. Egg and Coffee. — 1 egg; 1 table- spoonful of sugar; J cupful of boil- ing coffee. Beat egg and sugar together and add the boiling coffee gradually; stir, and add hot cream. Possett.— 1 cupful of milk; 1 table- spoonfiJ of molasses. Let milk come to a boiling point, add molasses, stir well, strain, and serve. WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 671 Pick-me-up. — 1 tablespoonf ul of powdered sugar; 1 egg; dash of salt; 1 tablespoonful of brandy. Separate the egg and beat the yolk until thick and lemon-colored, add the powdered sugar and brandy, beat again, then blend with white of the egg whipped to a stiff froth. This is so thick that it may be eaten with a spoon. Rum and Milk. — 1 cupful of rich milk; 1 egg; 1 tablespoonful of pow- dered sugar; dash of salt; 1 table- spoonful of rum ; scraping of nutmeg. Separate the egg, beat the yolk un- til quite thick, add the powdered sugar, then the nutmeg, salt, rum, and, last of all, the white of the egg beaten thick. Put in a shaker with a few pieces of ice and shake till cold, then strain into a glass. Hulled Wine. — 1 cupful of port wine; 2 tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar; 1 egg; 1 stick of cinnamon; i cupful of water. Pour the water over the cinnamon and let it steep in a double boiler for ten minutes, add the sugar, beat the egg stiff, pour over it the flavored water, lifting out the cinnamon, add the wine, pour it all into a shaker and shake hard till the drink is thor- oughly blended. If liked cold, add a bit of ice to it; if hot, set the shaker in boiling water for a few minutes. Flaxseed lemonade. — 3 cupfuls of cold water; 1 tablespoonful of whole flaxseed; 2 tablespoonf uls of sugar; juice of 1 lemon. Wash the flaxseed, put in a double boiler, pour the water over it and steep for an hour. Sweeten, add the lemon juice, and strain. This is a valuable remedy in a case of hoarse- ness or inflamed throat. Slippeiyrelm Tea. — i teaspoonfuls of slippery-elm powder; 3 cupfuls of boiling water; 2 tablespoonf uls of sugar; juice of 1 lemon. Pour the boiling water over the slippery elm; when cool, strain, sweeten, and flavor vdth the lemon juice. Ice Chocolate. — i cupful of milk; J cupful of Apolllnaris; 2 table- spoonfuls of chipped .ice; 2 table- spoonfuls of chocolate sirup; J cup- ful of whipped cream. Put these ingredients into a shaker and shake till frothy. Strain into a tumbler. Kumiss. — i cake of yeast; 4 cupful of sugar; J cupful of water; 3 quarts of milk. Boil the sugar and water for a few minutes, dissolve the yeast in 2 table- spoonfuls of water, heat the milk till lukewarm, add the yeast and water, and stir. Put into thoroughly clean beer bottles, set them upright for twelve hours in a warm room, then lay on their sides in a refrigerator. When the kumiss is twenty-four hours old it is ready to drink. Rice Uilk. — 2 tablespoonfuls of rice; 2 cupfuls of scalded milk; 1 tea- spoonful of sugar; dash of salt. Soak the rice over night in cold water. Next morning put in a double boiler with the milk and seasoning, stir occasionally, and let it steam for an hour and a half. Rub through a sieve, grate a scraping of nutmeg over it, and, if desired, put a table- spoonful of whipped cream on top. Serve hot or cold. PROVEN "HOKE BEIUEDIES" Gruels are more tempting to the sick if whipped to a froth with an egg beater before serving in a pretty cup. Beef tea is wanted frequently when there is little time to prepare it. It can be made quickly in the following manner: take a lean piece of beef, run it through a food cutter, using the finest cutter; cover with cold water and set at the back part of the range to heat. Do not let it boil, as that coagulates the albumen. Stir thoroughly, strain, and squeeze dry in a potato masher. This will extract all the juice of the beef quickly and easily. As a " pick-me-up," nothing is more nourishing than the white of a fresh egg beaten to a froth, slightly sweetened, and blended with the juice of a sweet orange. 672 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES HOT-WEATHEE CAEE OF INFAiraS AND YOUNG CHILDEEN The following suggestions, given by F. W. Reilly, M.D., Assistant Commissioner of Health, and en- dorsed by W. A. Evans, M.D., Com- missioner of Health, both of the Chicago Health Department, are the best to be obtained anywhere on the subject. The department claims that the advice contained in this article has been the means of saving the lives of more than eighty thousand babies and young children during the last eleven years, in Chicago alone. We print the circular without fur- ther comment: One third of the total yearly deaths of infants and young children in this city occur in the two hottest months of the year — July and Au- gust. Heat kills off babies and young children largely because it spoils their milk and other food quickly. Even breast milk, when the mother is overheated, may give the baby colic or " summer complaint." If a mother is very hot, she should draw a tea- spoonful or so from the breast before nursing her baby. If the breast has not been given for two hours or more, it should be drawn off in the same way. And if the mother has been badly frightened or very angry or excited, it is not safe to give the breast at all; it should be drawn and the milk thrown away. The Proper Food for Babies is mother's Milk. — No sensible mother needs advice on this point. If she is fairly healthy, her breast will give all the nourishment the child should have until it begins to cut its teeth — ^the sixth or eighth month. Up to this time it is a sin to give an infant one morsel of solid food of any kind, or anything but breast milk (if the mother is healthy) except water in moderate quantity occasionally, hut never soon after nursing. Many infants are killed every year by bringing them to the table with the family and giving them a little bit of this, that, and the other — meat, vegetables, pie, pickles, etc., which the little stomach is not fitted for. They are killed just as surely, though not so quickly, as if they had been fed poison out of a drug store. When the baby that is fed this way sickens and dies, it is said that the baby died of " diarrhea," or " dysen- tery," or " cholera infantum," or " summer complaint," or " teething," or " convulsions," or " brain fever." But these are only names for the result of poisoning with unfit food. Wait till the baby gets its teeth before you put food into its mouth that needs to be chewed. If the Breast Milk Gives Out, or becomes thin or watery, or if the mother has consumption or any other long-standing sickness, the baby must be put on the bottle and fed with cow's milk. . . . As soon as the milk is received, take what is to be used for the baby and " scald " it. Don't let it boil. A good way is to set a pan of cold water on the stove and put the ves- sel containing baby's milk into this pan; just as soon as the water comes to a boil, take it off. This amounts to what is called " sterilizing " or " pasteurizing " the milk. Add a pinch of baking soda to the hot milk — a little less than half a teaspoonful to a quart. If the milk was sweet and hadn't begim to " turn " when it was re- ceived, it will keep sweet for twenty- four hours or more after being treat- ed this way, even in hot weather. But, of course, it should be kept in a close-covered vessel or fruit jar or stoppered bottle. Whatever it is kept in should be thoroughly scalded — cover, stopper, and all — ^just before the milk is put in. If you have an ice box or refrig- erator to put the milk in, or can in any other way keep it from "turn- ing," it is better to let it stand for about six hours and then pour off the upper half for the baby's milk. This should then be " scalded " and soda added, as before described. If you WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 67S can't do this, a little cream should be added to the baby's milk — say one ta- blespoonful of cream to two or three of the milk. To make this nearly like breast milk, add two cupfuls of water that has been boiled to each cupful of milk and enough white sugar to make it as sweet as breast milk. (Milk sugar, if perfectly pure, is better than v»hite or cane sugar.) If this mixture is too rich, the baby will vomit it in curds or lumps, or it will pass through the bowels in white flakes and shreds. If this hap- pens, add more boiled water to the mixture until you find just what strength the baby's stomach will stand — what it can digest. When the Baby is About a Uonth Old, barley water should- be used in- stead of plain water. Put two table- spoonfuls of pearl barley in four cupfuls of cold water; boil an hour or more — down to two cupfuls; strain through a. close cloth; add a pinch of salt and sweeten to breast-milk taste. Add this to a cupful of "scalded" cow's milk treated as before de- scribed and begin feeding this strength. Gradually use more milk and less barley water, until at about six months of age the child is getting two thirds milk and one third barley water. Next to healthy breast milk, this will make as good food as the infant can get during teething and weaning. Then comes the pure milk — always " scalded " — bread and milk, baked potato and milk, oatmeal porridge — which can't be boiled too long, never less than two hours — and always eaten with milk, and the milk always "scalded," not boiled. Don't Overfeed the Baby. — Once In two or three hours is often enough to suckle or feed a baby until it is four or five weeks old; after that do not feed so often. When a baby is about six months old it will generally thrive best if fed only once during the night and four or five times regularly during the day. It is bad for a baby's stom- ach and bowels to feed it too often or too much at a time, especially in hot weather. A new-born baby's stomach will hold from two to three tablespoon- fuls, and not more than this amount — rather less — should be given at a time during the first week or so of a bottle-fed baby's life. As the baby grows, the quantity should be gradually increased, so that at the end of the first month it may be taking about four tablespoonfuls at a meal. Some children will re- quire more and others will not stand so much; but there is more danger of giving too much at a time than too little. Don't Stick the Nipple In the Baby's Mouth Every Time It Cries. — If the baby is properly fed at regular times it won't get hungry enough to make it cry, and it is fool- ish to feed it whenever it cries in- stead of trying to find out the trou- ble. It may be only thirsty, and a swallow or two of cold water — ^not a big drink — will stop it; or its clothes may be uncomfortable, or its napkin need changing. Try to find out what makes it cry, and then use "mother wit." And don't be afraid of giving the baby a drink of water. It heeds water as much as milk. It needs more water in proportion to its size and weight, and oftener, than its mother does. Thirst causes more needless suffer- ing to babies than anything else. Give the baby a drink! — but be sure the water is pure, by having been either boiled or filtered. Don't Teed the Baby with a Spoon. — Sucking is the natural way that a baby takes its food. It needs the sucking action of the lips and mouth and tongue to mix its food with the fluids of the mouth and to keep it from getting into the stomach too fast. Spoon feeding doesn't do this. TTse a Plain, Common Bottle for Feeding, with a rubber nipple and no tube. 674 HOUSEHOLD DISCOVERIES Fancy nursing bottles, with long rubber tubes and patent contriv- ances, besides costing money, can't be cleaned easily, and babies don't do well with them in other ways. The more simple the bottle and the nip- ple, the better for the baby. The rubber-tube bottle is a device of the Evil One for lazy mothers. It is bad enough when a mother can't suckle her own infant at her own breast; lee her at least take it in her arms and hold the bottle and " mother " it while it feeds. Take the nipple off after each feed- ing and at once boil both bottle and nipple for at least ten minutes. Be- fore using again, rinse the bottle and nipple in water that has been boiled — about a quart of water with half a teaspoonful of soda in it — or keep them in a pan of soda and water when not in use. More babies get " sore mouth " and " wind colic " and " summer com- plaint " for want of care of the nurs- ing bottle than from any other one cause. A little stale milk around the neck of the bottle or in the nipple will set up a ferment which is poison to the delicate lining of a baby's mouth and throat and stomach. Of course the baby's bottle food should be warm — about the same as breast milk, or " blood heat " ; that is, as warm as the inside of the mouth. Keep the Baby Clean and It Will Stand the Heat Better.— When the thermometer is at eighty or ninety in the shade, it isn't easy to keep the baby cool. But it can always be kept clean and will then be more com- fortable and have a better chance of living through the hot weather. It should have at least one full bath every day and oftener during ex- treme heat. Never bathe within one hour after feeding it. Bathe first; feed afterwards. Dress as lightly as possible. It will be better stark naked, except for a napkin and binder, some hours a day during the hot weather when indoors. But keep it in the open air, out of the hot sun, as much as you can be- tween sunrise and sunset. The out- door air, even of a dirty street, is fresher and better than the air in the house. Fresh air is the breath of life in a baby's nostrils. Take it or send it to the parks, or open squares, or the lake shore as often as you can. In the changeable summer climate of Chicago, care must be taken against sudden chilling. A thin, soft flannel binder, wound two or three times around the body, will do more to guard against this chilling than the ordinary full dress of frock, vest, skirts, drawers, socks, etc. This binder should be only wide enough to cover the belly, an inch or so above the navel and a couple of inches below. It should be wound smooth and. free from creases or folds, and fitted with a few stitches of soft darning cotton — not pins. This binder and a napkin are all the dress a baby needs during the heat of the day in the house in summer. Do Not let the Baby Sleep In the Same Bed with any Other Person. — If there is no crib, the mother should put a couple of chairs at her bedside, with any sort of soft cover- ing on them — not feather pillows or hot woolen stuffs — and let the baby sleep there. It will be more com- fortable on a summer night than ly- ing against the hot body of its mother, and will not be so apt to dis- turb or be disturbed. The backs of the chairs will keep the baby from falling, and the mother can readily reach over to care for it when necessary. Do Not Drug the Baby. — If after all your care the baby should fall sick, do not " pour drugs of which you know nothing into a body of which you know less." There is no mother in the city of Chicago that cannot get the best of medical treatment for her sick baby without money and without price, if she is unable to pay. Call a doctor instead of spending money for patent medicines, " soothing sirups " or WHAT THE HOME NURSE OUGHT TO KNOW 675 " cure-alls," which will probably do your baby more harm than good. Although this advice is more di- rectly for babies during the first year of life, the sense of it applies quite as well to older children. Don't overfeed them, and don't let them overfeed themselves. Don't give them rich food — ^meats, gravies, pastries, cake, etc. — nor a great variety. The simpler and plain- er the better — ^plenty of milk, whole- wheat bread, oatmeal, baked pota- toes, baked apples, and fresh fruit of all kinds, in season, but be sure the fruit is ripe and fresh. Roast and stews and made dishes and — pie will come soon enough and so will dys- pepsia. Keep up the daily full bath imtil it becomes a fixed habit. Keep them out in the open air as much as possible the whole year round, and send them into the coun- try whenever you can do so, but only to places where the water is pure. It a baby or child is worth having, it is worth saving, and more than half of the babies and young children that die (in Chicago) every year could be saved by follovrfng the ad- vice here given. A LAST WORD TO THE READER Scattered through the book, in al- most every chapter, are foods and drinks of which a convalescent may partake. Instead of repeating again the recipes which have been already given, one may easily refer to the in- dex. In the chapter on beverages are cocoa, afternoon chocolate, frozen punch, lime punch, raspberry and currant punch, raspberry vinegar, egg lemonade, black-currant cup, fruit cup, currant punch, and fruit beverage. Among soups are found a number of recipes for this light and nutri- tious form of food for an invalid. While a convalescent is trying to gain strength, it is possible that the doc- tor may order soup for him every day. Among some best suited for such a diet is consommi, tomato soups, mutton, Du Barry, veal, chicken, cream of corn, cream of cel- ery, asparagus cream, clam, Scotch mutton broth, and oyster soups. From the egg chapter one may choose eggs soft boiled, steamed, baked, egg nest, poached, shirred, poached in milk, eggs in ramequins, or any of the delicious omelets. Until convalescents are well ad- vanced, a doctor allows few vege- tables, except, perhaps, a baked pota- to or cream asparagus. Later come such food as carrots, green peas, spinach, or some of the wheat pastes, such as macaroni or spaghetti cooked in a cream sauce. Although for some time after an ill- ness toast is the bread usually served on an invalid's tray, a variety of breads takes its place during con- valescence. Entire-wheat bread is considered nourishing for certain dis- eases, gum-gluten bread is often rig- idly adhered to, or a bread made of bran. Then Boston brown bread, cornmeal gems, popovers, and baking- powder biscuits are allowed as the stomach grows stronger. It is some time after a sickness be- fore salads take their place as a diet, then usually the crisp green things are served with a French dressing in- stead of mayonnaise. Where a may- onnaise is desired, the boiled dress- ing, blended with an equal quantity of whipped cream, often proves quite digestible. Among these salads may be numbered chicken salad, Waldorf salad, sweetbread-and-tomato salad, and salads made from hard-boiled eggs. When one comes to desserts, there are an endless variety of delicious things which an invalid enjoys besides the few given in this chapter. Among them may be enumerated boiled and baked custards, chocolate custard, caramel custard, soufflSs, fruit whips, meringues, all sorts of junkets, blanc- mange, boiled rice, plain rice pud- ding, tapioca cream, fruit tapiocas, plain bread pudding, chocolate bread pudding, cracker pudding, and almost any of the delicate desserts made from gelatin. Sponge cake is allowed, and sometimes a plain gingerbread, while ice cream of the plainer sort, fruit sherbets, and fruit ices are allowable. INDEX PAGE Abbreviations, druggist's 626 Abdomen, bleeding of 655 wounded 647 Absorbents, inks, for 166 kinds of ; 169 stains, tor 155 uses ot 1B9 Accident, hints in time ot 647 Accidents, electricity, from 653 liglitning, avoiding 653 Acetate ot copper, poisons 139 Acetic acid, Armenian cement in 343 aromatic vinegar, in 471 bronze, for dark shades of 402 cream of tartar 157 eraser, as ink 70 fur, removal of 138 glue, liquid, for making 341 green, tor coloring bronze 401 ink, for metal label 431 for printer's 432 removal from linen 166-168 stains, for 160 moles, for 440 mucilage, in 340 poisoning from 649 rouge, tor 472 Acetylene flame, brilliancy of 100 health, effect of, on 100 Acetylene gas, annual cost of • 94 eyes, less trying to the 100 illumination, tor 95-99-100 Acid, citric, solution, dilute, ot 157 drops 532 solution, saturated, of 157 use ot 167 fatty, soap, in 186 lactic, uses of 157 muriatic, applications ot 158 nature and uses of 158 oxalic 156 application of 156 bleaching with 184 use of 156 -proof cement 350 paint 362 soap, masquer's 198 stains 167 colored silks, removal from 172 gloves, on 177 linen, removal from 167-168 removal ot 155-156,158 silk, to remove from 172 violet silk, to remove from 172 sulphuric, bleaching, for 182 tartaric, application ot 158 nature ot 157 uses ot 157 Acids, alkalies tor neutralizing 649 burns from 656 cautions In using 156 tatty, animal oils, fixed 376 properties ot 187 Aconite, poisoning from 651 Acre, laying out an 616 plots, dimensions of 617 Adheslves 332-S37 choice of 338 677 PAOE Adheslves, isinglass 342 lead 346 oil 346 receptacle for 335 special 346 use of 338 Adulterants, test tor 568 Adulterated wax, testing 646 Air, admitted freely 51 bath 444 skin, for hardening the 439 bladder, gelatin from 33T currents, direction ot, determining.. 60 fresh 645 babies, for 674 mixers, adjusting 132 care of 131 gas range, of 131 night 59 pure, denatured alcohol Ill sick room, in 662 Alabaster, cement for 347 cleaning 296, 4361 gypsum in 435 Imitation ot 436 nature ot 435 polishing 296 Alcohol, absslute 159 almond paste, for 469 anhydrous 159 aqua ammonia, with 159 asphalt dissolved by 367 attar ot roses, test tor 475 benzine, with 159 blackboards, in paint for 361 blacking, liquid, tor 424 books, for grease or oil on 70 burnt steel, for restoring 3881 candles, for cleaning 109 carpets, for cleaning 270 chemical soap, in 163 cold cream, for 470 collodion cement, in 350 compound cement. In 349' denatured 109 flatlron 226 healthf ulness of Ill heating with Ill possibilities of Ill Florida water, for 482 fur, for paint on 180 furniture, for polishing 381 tor, color ot, restoring 289 generator cup, in the 86 gilding, tor cleaning 411 glove cleaner, in 178 glue, liquid, tor making 341 gold lace, for cleaning 173 gold, plating, tor 405 grass stains, tor 163 industrial 109 ink, in green 43(1 mold, tor preventing, in 432 iron rust, marble, for removal of, from 294 lamps, construction of IIC sick room, in 66T student IIC 678 INDEX •page Alcohol lamps, Welsbach on 110 workroom, in the 335 lacquer, for 407 laundry, in the 204 lavender water, lor 481 leather, for black 417 men's clothes, for cleaning 175 mirrors, for cleaning 286 mucilage, lor preserving 341 nickel, for cleaning 294 oil stains, for removal of 164 old stains, for 169 paint, for removing 278 perfumes, for ■ 476 piano keys, for 289 picture frames, for 290 poisoning from 650 rosin, for dissolving 366 shellac cement, for 343 dissolved by 366 silver, for cleaning 145,413 scouring mixture, in 162 sleeplessness, cause of 152 soaps, for cutting 449 stove, fruit, for canning 550 sunburn lotions, in 465 transparent soap, in 451 turpentine, for mixing with 159 uses of 158 varnish, oil painting, for 372 water, for testing 204 wax stains, for 164 wood, in polishing 379 Ale, leather cement, in 349 Alkali, aluminum corroded by 397 excess of 220 in soap 186 free in soap 186 properties of 187 soap, in 185 stains 172 removal of 172 yellow tinge, causes 222 Alkalies, cautions in use of 205 clothes, rot 205 neutralizing 649 poisoning from 649 rosin, dissolved by 366 Alkaline lye, bleaching, for 182 Alkanet root, toilet preparations, for coloring 461 rouge, for 472 Alloy, coinage, in 384 Alloys, metallic 384 Allspice, moths, for repelling 307 Almond bonbons 527 cream 465 complexion, for the 465 creams 526 oil, cold cream, for 470 hands, for chapped 455 paste 465, 468 hands, for chapped 455 preparations 465 soap 449 Almonds 610 almond paste, for 469 bitter, almond soap, for 449 freckles, for 463 sunburn lotions, in 465 toilet water, for 480 milk of 466 oil of, chapped lips, for 473 rouge, for 472 sachet, for 477 sugared 435 milk, complexion, for the 465 soap 449 Alpaca, washing 216 Alum, acid principle of 157 alkaline, hard soap, for 196 PASES Alum, bedbugs, for exterminating — 313 brass, in bronzing 401 brick washv in 280 burnt, books, for grease or oil on.. 70 gold lace, for cleaning 173 calicoes, for 210 candles, for 107 canvas, for flreprooflng 93 carpets, for faded 271 cloth, for flreprooflng 92 for waterprooflng 93 colored silks, in washing 215 colors, for flxing 210 comforters, in washing 218 cracks, for filling 273 damp walls, for 284 fat, for graining 189 fireproof paint, for 361 fires, preventing 92 putting out 91 freckles, for 462 fur skins, for tanning 417 garments, for flreprooflng 92 gloves, for cleaning 177 gold, for coloring brass 401 in coloring 434 plating, in 405 grease spots, for removal of 167 green, for coloring 210 for coloring bronze 401 hands, for moist 452 ink, in 165 for red 429 for yellow 430 iron rust, for removal of 167 Ivory, bleaching 142 for cleaning 292 knife handles, for fastening 141 lace, for cleaning 213 lamps, for mending 149 leather, for dyeing red 417 in tanning 415 library paste, in 339 metals, lor gliding 409 mildew, for preservation against ... 164 moth patches, for 440 nickel, for cleaning 299 paper hanger's paste, in 339 paste blacking, for 424 plaster of Paris, with 435 Roman, rouge, lor 472 silver, discolored, for cleaning 143 for polishing 14S soapsuds, lor cleansing 201 stove polish, in 12& sunburn lotions, for 465 tallow, lor clarilying 107 water, clariflcation of 115 whitewash, in 279 wood, flreprooflng with 93 woolen shawls, for washing 217 wrinkles, for 440 Alumina, sand soaps, in 198 sulphate of, cloth, waterprooflng.... 93 fabrics, flreprooflng 93 Aluminum, alloys of 397 bronze 397 chloride of, ink, in I6B ink, in copying 428 nature of 397 oven doors, for cleaning 131 soldering 397 wash, vermin, for 310 Amalgam, dentists' 6H gilding by 408 gold 40C Amalgams 384, 39f dental 39; making , 33^ mercury for 39; metals, of ' .' " ' sg.j INDEX 679 PAGE! Amber 365 cement 344 fish, in gilding 411 Ambergris, essence of, perfumes, tor. 476 sachet, for 477 toilet water, for; 481 linen, for preserving 232 nature of 474 resin cement. In 343 varnish 367 making 367 nature of 365 Ammonia, acids, for neutralizing .... 156 acid stains, for 172 bedstead, for vf ashing 26B blacking, for /. 424 black silk, for cleaning 171 brass furniture, for cleaning 291 carbonate of, jewelry, tor polishing. 433 prints, tor cleaning 70 smelling salts, for 158, 479 carpets, for 255 chamois, for cleaning 179 chloride of, wicks, tor candle 107 coarse paint, tor cleaning 278 color removed by '. . . . 246 ' colored silks, stains, removal of, from 172 curtains, tor washing 214 feather pillows, for cleaning 267 furniture, for polishing. 381 gas, a by-product of 95 gloves, for cleaning 177 grease, carpets, in removal of, from 271 hard soap, for 192 hides, for tanning 416 ink, in Indelible 429 Insect bites, for 655 ivory knife handles, bleaching 142 laundry, in the 204 linoleum, for renewing 41 muriate ot, flres, putting out 91 nature and uses of 158 nickel, for cleaning 294 paint, tor cleaning.. 277 phosphate ot, fires, preventing 92 poisoning from 650 powdered, flannel, for bleaching 184 rubber cement, in 343 sea- water stains, tor 172 silk, for bleaching 172 tor cleaning 171 soap, tor increasing 194 spirits of, tainting, remedy for 651 medicine case, in 648 sponges, tor cleaning 448 sulphate ot, fires, preventing 92 flres, for putting out 91 tan shoes, for 421 washing fluid, in 205 water, acid, in neutralization ot .... 158 insect bites, tor 648 white goods, for bleaching 185 kid, for cleaning 420 windows, tor cleaning 285 wood floors, tor cleaning 275 Ammoniacal copper carbonate, insects, for destroying 329 spraying with 329 Aniline blue in ink 427 bronzing fluid 402 dye, ink, for .' 429 Ink, tor rubber stamp 431 shellac, for coloring 370 orange, ink, lor yellow 430 violet. Ink, for hectograph 431 ink, tor violet 430 leather, for bronzing 403 Animal bites, poisoning from 655 fibers, bleaching 181 gasoline, cleaning with 160 PAGE Animal matter, test for 115 oils 376 fixed 376 preservation ot 377 rancid, restoration of 377 Animals, domestic, fleas on 315 Anime 365 varnish 363 nature ot 365 Aniseed, rat trap, for 317 Anopheles mosquito 59 yellow fever, communicate 323 Anthracite (or hard) coal, as fuel 81 Antidotes, poisons, tor 649 Antifriction alloy, nature ot 396 Antimony, bonfires, tor 106 butter ot 398 fiowers ot 398 nature ot 397 Antiseptic ice 118 solution, medicine case. In 649 Ant nests, destruction of 320 the white 320 white, ravages, to prevent 320 Ants, bedbugs, enemies of 314 black 319 exterminating 319 camphor, for exterminating 319 destruction ot 319 red 319 exterminating 319 trapping 320 white, destruction of 321 Apoplexy, shock from 652 Apothecaries' fluid measure 623 weight 625 Apple and custard, invalids, tor 669 preserves 554 water, invalids, for 670 Apples, chapped lips, for 474 evaporated 609 AppliquS embroidery 247 Apprenticeship, domestic 6. Apricot preserves 555 Apricots, whole, preserving 55G Apron, clothespins, for 219 Aprons, mending 246 Approximate equivalents 642 table of 644 Aqua ammonia, acid stains, for re- moval of 158 alabaster, for cleaning 296 alcohol, with 159 alkaline soaps 196 blankets, in washing 213 cod liver oil, removal of 167 coffee stains, tor 168; color, restoration of 156 copper, for testing 389 door plates, tor cleaning 145 freckle lotion, tor 46S glassware, tor washing 140 gloves, stains, removal ot 178 grease spots, removal ot 167 greasy tins, for 138 insect bites, for 311 jewelry, for polishing 433 kid gloves, for cleaning 179 men's clothes, for cleaning 175 mosquito bites, for curing 326 nickel, for cleaning 129 rouge, tor 473 rugs, for cleaning 270 sinks, cleaning 75 soot, removal ot 148 tinware, tor 138 wall paper, test for 38 washing fluid, for 206-207 Aqua regla, gold dissolved by 408 metals, for gilding 409 Aquaria, cement for 347 680 INDEX FAG£ Arabic, gum, nature of 366 Arch, rooms, for living 51 Arc lamps, Welsbach type, of 99 Argand cbimneys, Unds of 97 Argon, atmosphere, in 68 Arm, bleeding of 654 Injured, when 647 upper, fracture of 65S Armpit, bleeding of 654 Armenian bole, gilding size, for... 411-412 cement 342 Arnica, bruises, for 653 tincture of, medicine case, in 648 Aromatic vinegar 471, 668 imitation of 568 toilet, for the 471 Arsenic, cockroaches, for destroying, 311-312 copper, for whitening 390 electroplating, in 400 odor of, removing 38 Paris green, in 329 poisoning from 651 silver flsh, destroying 69 soap with 451 sulphuret of, sealing wax, for yellow 375 wall paper, in 38 white, insects, for destroying 330 Arsenite of lead, insects, for destroy- ing 330 of soda, spraying with 330 Art, electrotyping an educational 403 Artery, bleeding from 657 ruptured 648 Artificial honey, making 545 illumination 94 light, effect on health 95 marble, making 436 Arts-and-crafts movement, origin of. . 34 walls, tinting 38 Asbestos, flatirons, for 226 - grate, blower for 88 iron holders 227 ironware cement, in 348 for mending 386 paint, for acid-proof 362 paper, waste of heat, preventing 85 pipes, protection of 263 sinks, for 113 stove holders, for 129 uses for 130 Ash, granulated soda, washing pow- der, in 207 Ashes, bottles, cleaning 140 coal, china, for cleaning 145 earthenware, cleaning 138 hard water, for softening 204 hot, hearth, cleaning a 130 ironware cement, for 348 oak wood, from 188 potash lye, from 188 In making 188 range, keeping from edges of 127 removal of, each morning 127-128 scouring with 141 sifted, fireproof paint, for 361 steel, for bluing 387 wood, fires, putting out 91 Asparagus, creamed, invalids, for 668 Asphalt 367 nature of 367 varnish 368 Asphalts, lakes of 367 Asphaltum, ink, for printer's 432 stencil ink, for 429 varnish 372 Atmosphere, consistency of 58 dryness of, overcoming 84 Attar of rose 477 Attic, cleaning 264 Automobiles, effects of 41 PAGE Avoirdupois weight — .• 624 Awnings, fireprooflng 93 waterproofing 94 Axle grease 378 making 378 Axles, Babbit metal for 395 Axminster carpet, domestic 39 chenille carpet 39 Babbit metal, nature of 395 Babies, cow's milk for 672 drug, do not 675 food for 672 hot weather, care of in 674 Bacon, curing 596 Bacteria, contagious diseases, in 253 drinking water, from impure 114 dust, in 252 Bag, clothespin 219 cotton, clotheslines, for 220 Bags, button 237 sewing room, for the 237 flour 77 handkerchief 237 Ice 121 paper, uses of 77% scrap, for sewing room 237 sewing 237 and handkerchief 237 room, for 237 wash, laundry, for 154 waste thread, for 237 Bait, rat traps, for 317 Baize, dark green, rooms, for dark- ening 147 Baking dishes, care of 138 powder, can, sprinkling, for 222 cans, uses of 78,335 tartaric acid in 157 soda, ink, in marking 428 insect bites, for 655 linen, wine stains, removal of . . . . 169 souring mixture. In 162 walls, for blackened 284 Balances, toilet preparations, for 461 Baldness 489 Ball, candy making in 519 darning 244 Balloon varnish 368 Balls, black, leather for 426 Balsam, Canada 371 needles, pillows, tor fancy 49 of Peru, almond creams, in 467 sealing wax, for perfuming ...374, 376 varnish 373 Bamboo furniture, cleaning 289 Banana peel, tan shoes, for polishing. 420 Bandoline 501 Bands, leather, cement for 349 Banking fires, buckwheat coal, with.. 82 pea coal for 82 Barberries, pickled 581 Barber's itch 499 Bark galls, leather, in tanning 416 soap 197 Barley water, babies, for 673 invalids, for 670 Barns, painting 354 Barometers, mercury for 398 Barrel, clothes hamper, as 154 drainage, for 113 grease, for preserving 189 hoop, clothes hanger, as a 309 paint 362 rain water 204 Barrels, packing, for 300 Bases, toilet preparations, of 459 Basket, clothespins, for 219 wire, bathroom, for 443 Bath, air 444 bran 445 INDEX 681 PAGE Bath, brick, brass fittings, cleaning.. 128 burners, for polishing 149 copper 'ware, for 137 scouring with 141 sinks, cleaning 146 tins, scouring 138 cold sponge 444 water 646 dally, babies, for 676 foot 445 hot-air 445 mustard 445 Bussian ! 445 tub, painting 442 warm sponge, sleeplessness, pre- venting 152-153 Bathers, don'ts for 443 Bathing 440 health In 646 outdoor 444 water supply for 112 Bathroom 67, 442 cement for 67 cleaning the 268 conveniences for 442 gas water heater 87 painting the 268 paper, for waterproof oilcloth 37 salt-water 445 sea 444 slippers, twine, from 77 soap bags for 198 sponge 646 stool 445 temperature of 443 the 438 tile for 67 Baths 440 cabinet 445 cold, skin, for hardening the 439 foot 445 kinds ot 444 warm, retiring, before 150 Battenberg lace, laundry, prepara- tion for the 212 Bay rum 500 chemical soap, in 162 compounding 500 Bayberry soap 451 Beans, ashpan, baking in 127 dry, storing 607 green, storing 607 Beard, care of the 496 Bearings, bronze 'for 391 Beater, carpet, blankets, for 218 Beauty doctors 446 Bed, baby, for 674 covers 62 eiderdown for 63 feather, airing 147 infant's ...., 67 Morris chair as 67 sick room, for 663 separate, individual 58 wool for 63 Bedbug, exterminating 312 the 313 Bedbugs, enemies of 313-314 keeping down 313 ' poisons for 313 Bedding 62 house cleaning, when 266 storage of 268, 309 Bedroom, curtains for 45 ornaments 268 . ware 147 Bedrooms 61 cleaning 266 colors, light and delicate, for 36 cooling 147 curtains for 61 PAOB Bedrooms, decorations tor 62 furniture for 61-62 ventilation of 58, 60 wall coverings for 61 woodwork for 61 Beds 61, 62 airing 146 brass 61-62 enameled, renovating 62 feather, care of 267 use of 63 feathers for 63 folding 67 accident from, preventing 67 iron 61-62 making up 147 metal, renovating 266 warming 150 Bedspreads 63 dimity 63 dotted muslin 63 hose, for rinsing 218 lace curtains for 63 net 63 washing 218 Bed springs 62 box spring 62 wash, house cleaning, when 266 Bedstead, old-fashioned, utilization of 52 wash, house cleaning, when 266 Bedsteads, brass, introduction of 58 cord, old-fashion«d 62 iron, introduction of 58 slat, old-fashioned 62 wooden, discarding of 58 Beef, corned, improving 593 gall, cleansing mixture 161 green tints, for brightening 208 purple, for brightening 208 soap from 198 yellow, for brightening 208 pickle for 592 potted 599 presses 600 sausage 598 scraped, invalids, for 668 suet, soap making, suitable for 189 tallow, harness, for 418 tea. Invalid diet 665 Beer, blacking, paste tor 424 cold, furniture, for cleaning 382 lager, woolen goods, sponging 176 stale, gloves, wash-leather coloring. 178 Bees, sting of 655 Beeswax, alcohol, cutting with 381 amber varnish, In 367 bed ticking, for 267 candles, for 107 cement, for 344 coloring 546 electrotyping, in 404 English bar soap, in 196 floors, for 256-274 furniture, for polishing 381 scratches, removal of 288 hands, for chapped 455 harness, for 418,425 for waterproofing 425 imitation of 546 ink, for metal label 431 for printer's 432 leather, for waterproofing 421 in waterproofing 423 paste for furniture 382 plaster-of-Parls cement, in 347 preparation of 545 refining 546 sealing wax, for soft 375 shoe strings, for 420 silks, when storing 310 starch, prevent sticking 227 682 INDEX PAOB Beeswax, ticks, tor pillow 50 whitening 546 woolen goods, when packing 310 Beetle, carpet 310 Beets, pickled 581 preserving 605 Belladonna, poisoning from 650 Bell metal 395 Bellows water for clarifying 116 Bells, bronze, of 390 house, bronze for 391 Belts, leather, cement Cor 349 Bench, carpenter's, workroom, for the 334 Bengal chutney 577 Benzine, alcohol, with 159 alkaline hard soap, tor 196 soft soap, for 196 burning, putting out 91 carpet beetles, for destroying 311 fleas, for destroying 314 gloves, for cleaning 177 grease, removal of, from silk 170 insect bites, tor 655 kid gloves, for cleaning 179 white, for 420 moths, for destroying 306 nature of 160 paint dissolved by 164 removal of 278 thinner for 353 petroleum, see. rubber cement, for 345 silk, use of, for 170 silver, for cleaning 145, 413 spots, wax floors, removal from 256 stains, removal of 170 stove polish, in 129 uses of 160 velvet, cleaning 172 wash, vermin, for 310 wounds, for cleansing 648 Benzoic acid, bronzing fluid, aniline. . 402 lavender water, for 481 Benzoin, bookbinder's varnish, in 373 complexion, for the 463-464 freckles, for 463 leather, in waterprooflng 423 sealing wax, for perfuming 376 tincture of, perfumes, for 476 toilet water, for 481 Benzol, asphalt dissolved by 367 Bergamot, oil of, almond creams, in.. 467 Florida water, for 482 perfumes, for 476 sachet, for 477 toilet water, for 481 Berries, canning 554 Berry stains, treatment of 164 Bias folds, cutting 249 Bicarbonate of lime, water, for clari- fying 116 Bin, cellar, for 263 Binding, skirt 243 Bindings, calf, restoration of 71 skirt, for 243 Bins, cellar 263 Biscuits, gum-gluten, invalids, for.... 668 Bismuth, nature of 398 skin, blackens the 460 BUbnitrate of 398 test for 405 wicks, for candle 107 Bites, dog 655 insect, remedy for 648 mosquito, cure for 326 preventing 325 snake 655 Bitter almonds, freckles, for 463 Bittersweet, poisoning from 650 Bitumen, petroleum, see. Bituminous (or soft) coal, fuel, as 81 PAGE Black ants 319 asphalt varnish 368 bottle wax 560 cement ^•" 350 colors, flxing 210 coloring and waterprooflng 94 dye, harness, for 425 faded, reviving 176 gloves, renovating 429 goods, cleaning 176 wheat bran for 246 grain side, leather 417 hair dye 494 Hole of Calcutta 58 ink, making 426 kid, color, restoring, of 420 lace, sponging 213 washing 213 lead, grates, for cleaning 297 hearth, for blackening 130 lubricator as 377 stove polish, in 128 zinc, for bronzing 401 leather, for 417 paint 364 lampblack in 364 sealing wax 375 silk 171 cleaning 171 Blackboard, library, for the 69 Blackboards, paint for 361-362 Blackened walls, renovating 284 Blackheads, nature of 439 Blacking, gas range 131 leather 423 liquid 424 making 424 paste, nature of 423 stove 128 yellow soap, with 199 zinc, in bronzing 401 Blacksmiths, soap for 195 Blades, long, scissors 239 Blanket, curtains, spreading on 214 table pad, for 73 Blankets, beating 218 carpet beater for 218 cotton 266 factory made 65 heavy, rubbing 203 hanging out 220 horse, potato juice, cleaning with... 223 hose for rinsing 218 ironing 230 old, mending 268 quilts, for 65 sick room, for 663 washing 218 wool 63 Bleached linen sheets 63 Bleaching 181 agent, chlorine 169 animal fibers 181 Dutch process of 182 linen 182 lactic acid for 157 powder 181 ink, removal of 166 Ink stains, for 160 uses of 159 sal soda, with 183 vegetable fibers 181 Bleeding, internal 654 treatment of 656-657 Blood, absorbents for 159 loss of, fainting from 661 stains, cornstarch for 159 linen, on 169 Bloomers, house cleaning, for 261 .Blotters, kitchen, in the 76 Blotting-pad rings '.. 560 INDEX 683 PAGE Blotting paper, absorbent 159 grease, carpets, removal from 271 floors, removal from 271 removal of 69 wall paper, removal from 283 laces, for drying 230 Blouses, flannel, washing 216 Blow, candy making, in 519 Blower, grate, for 88 Blowpipe, white lead, for testing 392 Blue, candy, coloring 541 dining room, for sunny 36 dull shades, rooms, toning down, for south 36 fixing 210 grayish, dining room, for sunny 36 ink 430 making 430 laundry, gold lace, cleaning 173 leather, dyeing 417 light, light absorbs 36 linen dress, uses of 247 paint 363 Prussian blue In 363 sealing wax 375 vitriol, gilding, for coloring 410 ink In 427 poisoning from 651 wash, ceilings, for 280 walls, for 280 Bluing 222 clothes 222 lace, in cleaning 213 making 222 mirrors, tor cleaning 286 recipes for 222 sheepskin rugs, tor 273 silk stockings, in washing 215 starch, in 222 water, feathers, for cleaning 179 muslin unbleached, bleaching 185 sheeting, for bleaching 183 silk, tor bleaching 172 white goods, for bleaching 185 wool, for bleaching 183 whitewash. In 279 wool, for 216 Board, ironing, arrangement of 227 covers tor 227 hanging up 227 measure 618 skirt 236 sleeve 236 Bobbinet, curtains, tor 45 Boiler, collapse, prevention of 113 emptying 113 laundry, for 200 the 200 Boilers, cleaning 264 copper, cement tor mending 350 cleaning 137 tin cans as 78 wash, cleaning 138 Boiling clothes 202,203 water 115 Bole, brown paint, in 364 glue size, in 339 tooth powder 606 Bologna sausage 597 Bolster cases, making 64 Bolts, copper for 389 Bonbon fondant 523 Bonbons 617, 526 almond 627 cocoanut strawberry 627 Jelly cream 527 maple 527 vanilla cream ....■ 526 Bone black, nature of 423 stove polish, in 128 Bones, broken, treatment of 658 PAon Bones, glue from 337 Bonfires 106 antimony in 106 camphor in 106 making 106 saltpeter in 106 sulphur In 106 Bookbinders' varnish 373 Bookbinding, glue, flexible, for 341 Bookbindings, freshening 71 Book, commonplace 72 pages, mending when torn 71 receipt, covering , 77 homemade 77 Bookcases, front room, tor 52 Books, care of 69 catalogue of 71 classifying 639 cleaning 70 edges of, gilding for 412 grease on 69 handling 71 insect pests of 69 library, for the .68 list of 71 oil on 69 packing 301 paste for 339 preventing mold 69 Boots, care of 418, 419 cleaning 419 creaking, to stop 419 kid, care of 420 oiling 421 preservation of 418 rubber, drying 421 see shoes 418 Boracic acid, complexion, for the 46? mucilage, tor preserving 341 Borax, ants, for 320 bedspreads, in washing 218 bedstead, tor washing -2661 blacking, for 424 blankets, tor washing 218 burned, copper, for whitening 390 carpets, for cleaning 27G moths, protecting from 307 chemical soap, In 162 cleansing mixture 161 cloth, fireproofing 92 cold cream, for 470 colors, for fixing 210 comforters, in washing 218 complexion, for the 464 copper castings, for improving 389 ware, for 137 discolored silver, tor cleaning 143 dishwashing, for 133 electrotypes, for 389 fabrics, fireproofing 92 face, for the 447 feathers, for purifying 267 fires, for putting out 91 prevention of 92 freckles, for 463 fur skins, for tanning 416 gloss, removal of 176 gold bronze, for 403 hands, for the 454 bard soap, for 193 water, for softening 115, 204 ink, in marking 42& iron, for welding 386 laces, washing 211 matting, for cleaning 273 metal cement, in 343 mildew, removing from linen 167 moths, for 308 nickel, for cleaning 29S paint, dryer for 360 pimples, for 44C 684 INDEX PAGE Borax, plaster of Paris, with 435 rouge, for 473 satin, for cleaning 172 scarlet, for fixing 211 shellac varnish, in 369 silk, in washing 215 soap 449 for increasing 194 sponges, for cleaning 448 starch, with 224 sunburn, for 465 tan shoes, for 421 teeth, for the 607 washing fluid, in 205-206-207 water, black lace, for sponging 213 burner, gas range 131 wicks, for candle 107 yellow soap, with 199 Bordeaux mixture, spraying with 327 Border, ceiling, on edge of 38 decorative, stencil for 46 Borders, carpet 43 stenciled 38 Boric acid, antiseptic 647 Botanical mucilage 340 Bottle, common, babies, for feeding.. 674 hot- water, mending a 345 wax 344, 546 Bottles, cleaning 140 glass, ink for marking 428 hot- water, beds, warming 150 musty, sweetening 140 nursing, cleaning 674 Boulet, candy making, in 519 Box, clothes hamper, as 154 cooling 121 fire, cleaning 124 Boxes, capacity of 620, 621 cereal 78 empty, uses for 335 lath, fruit, for 609 Boxwood shavings, silver, for cleaning 413 Boys' clothes, mending 242 trousers, mending 242 Braid straw, bleaching 184 Bran bath 445 colored goods, to wash 211 furs, for cleaning 309 garments, for cleansing delicate 208 hands, for the 454 moth patches, for 440 muffins, invalids, for 668 sheepskin, for tanning 417 shoe trees, for 419 shoes, for drying 418 silk, for bleaching 184 for washing 215 tea, invalids, for 670 water, scarlet cloth, for cleaning 177 silk stockings, for 216 starch, instead of 225 wheat, calico, black, for 210 white paint, tor cleaning 278 woolens, for washing 217 Brandy, Armenian cement, for 342 leather varnish. In 372 poison, antidote for 650 silk, for cleaning 171 Brass 389 beds ;...61, 62 black dip, for 401 brads. Ironware, for mending 387 bronzing, for 401 canker, detection of 559 cleaning 293, 299 fittings, cleaning 128 furniture, cleaning 291 gold, coloring for 401 plating 405 Inlaid work, cleaning 291 kettle, carpets, in dyeing 43 PASB Brass, lacquer for 370 nature of 390 plating 405 polishing 300 solder 394 tarnishing, to prevent 293 tinning 399 whitening 401 zinc, alloy of 396 zincking 400 Brazil wood, ink, for red 429 rouge, for 473 Brazing 400 solder 390 Bread cloths, tablecloths, old, from. . 233 crumbs, lace, for cleaning 173 gold lace, cleaning 173 lace, for cleaning 173 raising, gluten, for 337 stale, bindings, for freshening 71 books, for cleaning 70 bric-a-brac, for cleaning 291 toasted, silk, removal of wax from. 171 wall paper, tor cleaning 283 Breath, the 510 Breathing, carbon dioxygen 104 monoxide Ill carbonic-acid gas 104, 111 lamps, night 104 oxygen necessary in 58 sleep, in 150 smoke 104 soot 104 Bric-a-brac, cleaning 291, 292 colored copal varnish for 371 unfashionable 34 Brick color, paint, mixing 364 dust, iireproof paint, for 361 scouring with 141 tinware, for 138 painting, specifications for 357 red, beds, warming 150 walks, cleaning 295 work, cleaning 292 cost of 619 measuring 619 Bricks, wash for 280 Bright colors, unfashionable 34 Brilllantine 501 Brimstone, ants, for exterminating... 319 safety matches, for 437 silk, for bleaching 172 steel, for melting 387 woolen goods, for bleaching 183 Brine, onions, pickling with 578 stone walks, for cleaning 295 Britannia metal, test for 405 ware, cleaning 145 nature of 398 solder for 394 Broiling, gas stove, for 132 Broken bones, treatment of 658 Bronze, age of 390 aluminum 391, 337 brown shades 402 cheap gold 402 cleaning 294 coin. United States 641 color, paint, mixing 364 dark shades 402 denatured alcohol, use of, for 110 gold 402 cheap 402 green, coloring for 401 gun barrels 40J ink 430 preparation for 430 Iron color 402 manganese 391 medals 403 nature of INDEX 685 FAOB Bronze paint. Iron, for .■ 402 phosphor 391 plaster casts, for 402 powder 402 bronze paint. In 402 molding, in regilding 412 plaster casts, for bronzing 402 pure gold 402 red 402 silver 397, 402 white 402 tempering 391 Bronzes, art, zinc, from 401 cleaning 291 Bronzing fluid, aniline 402 leather 403 metals 401 Broom, brush, sprinkling, for 222 rats and mice, protecting from 252 soapsuds, rinsing in 251 sweeping with a 250 Brooms, care of 251 selecting 251 Broth, chicken, invalids, for 666 Brown, dyeing 43 hair dye 494 light, absorbs 36 cleaning 17 linen dress, uses of 247 paint 364 umber in 364 paper, absorbent, as an 169 cellars, for 262 grease, removal of 159 wax stains, for 165 russet, living room, for the 36 Bruises, black and blue 653 furniture, removal from 288 hot water for 653 treating 653 Brush, bristle, house cleaning, when.. 266 flesh, sleeplessness, preventing 153 glassware, tor polishing 140 hair, cleaning 485 walls, for dusting 283 nail, fabrics, for delicate 208 scrubbing, for 134 vegetable, linens, for coarser 208 washing 485 wood carving, for polishing 382 Brushes, camel's-hair, spots, for 156 stains, for 156 care of 360 hair, care of 484 paint, care of 360 cleaning 360 preservation of 360 scrubbing, men's clothes, for clean- ing 174 shoes, for 419 soapsuds, for cleaning 360 Brussels carpet 39 wearing qualities, excellent 43 Buckwheat coal for banking flres 82 furnace flres, banking 127 Buff cleaning 177 color, paint, mixing 364 " Buffalo bugs" 310 Building paper, cellars, for 262 Buildings, outside of, cement for 346 Bulkheads, tar varnish for 372 Bunsen burner, alcohol lamp, like 110 Burdock, rat holes, for 316 Bureau drawers, linen, for 231 lubricator for 378 yellow soap for 199 scarfs 67 sewing room, in the 235 Burglar-proof lock 286 Burlap, draperies, for 48 drawn rugs, for 44 FAQB Burlap, fading of 56 halls, for outer 38 packing, for 300 sacks, pillows, covering 50 screens, for 49 wall covering, as 38 Burner, Argand, for gas 97 bat- wing, gas 97 boiling 102 Bunsen, gas 97 draught, keep clear of 102 fish-tail, for gas 97 flat flame, gas consumed by 96 lamps, of central draught 103 Welsbach 100 for gas 97 gas consumed by 96 Burners, care of 131, 149 extra, buying r 148 gas 97 sizes of 97 three kinds 97 Burning garments, extinguishing 89 hands, sensation of 452 Burnishing powder 294 Burns, linseed oil for 454 treatment of 656 yellow soap for 199 Burnt almonds, glazing 536 sienna, mahogany, tor imitating 274 steel, restoration of 388 Bust form 240 sewing room, in the 240 Butter, mold, removal from linen 163 skin, for relaxed 440 storeroom for 79 tea stains, for 168 unsalted, hands, for chapped 455 lips, for chapped 473 Buttercups ; 528 Buttermilk, acid principle of 157 bleaching, for 182 copper, cleaning 139 freckles, for 462 glass, cleaning fine 140 mildew, for 157 oilcloth, for 268 skin, for the 463 sleeplessness, preventing 153 sour, wine stains, removal from linen 169 stubborn stains, for 157 table oilcloth, for washing 259 tarnished silver, polishing 144 white goods, for bleaching 185 Butterscotch 517, 529 Button bags 237 sewing room, for the 237 Buttonhole scissors 239 Buttons, box for 234 Cabbage, odors of, removing 135 pickled 678 storing 606 worms, kerosene emulsion for 329 Cabinet baths 445 china, dining room, for 73 kitchen 79 music 64 work, copal varnish for 370 painting 360 Calcimine 363 preparation of 280 walls, for 36 zinc, native ore of 390 Calcimined walls, cleaning 284 Calcimining, cost of 615 shellac for 369 Calcium carbide, acetylene gas, for. 99-100 chloride, fires, putting out 91 Calcutta, Black Hole of SS 686 INDEX PAGE Calendar, the 640 Calico bag, ironing board, for 227 black, potato starch, for 210 crazy quilts, pieces for 66 glazed, rooms, darkening...' 147 quilts, protecting 66 Calicoes, alum for 210 doing up 224 quilts, pieces for 65 starching 225 washing 210 careful 209 Calomel, nature of 398 Cambric, soap, should not be rubbed with 208 Cambrics, salt for 208 washing 208 careful 209 Camp catsup 585 vinegar 570 Campaign, house cleaning, plan of, for 260 Camphor, anime varnish, in 368 ants, for exterminating 319 aromatic vinegar, for 471 blacking, for 424 bonfires, for 106 bruises, for 653 candles, for 107 chapped hands, remedy for 455 chemical soap, in 162 chloroform, dissolved by 169 cockroaches, for destroying 312 copal varnish, in 370 freckles, for 463 furniture, for cleaning 287 glass, in cutting 434 gum, cleansing mixture 161 laundry, in the 204 mosquitoes, for repelling 326 silver, for cleaning 145 hands, for the 453 ice 455 Insect bites for 655 Iron, for softening 385 lubricator, as a 377 metals, rust, protecting from 298 mold, prevention of 72 mosquito bites, for curing 326 moths, for destroying 307-308 for preventing 305, 308 oil, complexion, for the 464 sealing wax, in 374 shoes, in waterproofing 422 soap 450 spirits of, medicine ease, in 649 sunburn lotions, for 465 test tor 475 varnish, in 372 washing fiuid, in 207 wrinkles, for 440 Camphorated spirits^ mosquito bites, for preventing 326 Can, kerosene oil, for 148 openers, rack for 75 Canada balsam 371 turpentine varnish 371 Candied fruits 517, 632 Candies 515 cream 524 kinds of 516 Candle, air current, determining di- rection of 60 blowing out 109 frames, how made 106-108 making 106 value, educational 106 molds, how made 106-105 shades, asbestos protection of 130 wicks 107 preparation of 107 Candles 106 PAGE Candles, alcohol, cleaning with 109 bedtime 106 bleaching 109 carrying 109 cost per hour 94-95 decorative purposes, for 106 dipping 108 dripping, preventing from 109 health, effect on 94-95 lard 107 lighting 109 molding 108 rolling 108 tables, on lunch and dinner 106 tallow 107 moths, repellent for 306 waxed floors, for polishing 256 wax, imitation of 109 Candlesticks 109 cleaning 145 decoration, for 109 presents, for 109 Candy, boiling sirup for 517 colorings for 540 drops 531-532 flavorings for 542 Ingredients for 516 kinds of, degrees for 517 making B15 utensils for 515 maple sirup 530 measurements for 516 molasses 517 pulling 528 rock 531 freckles, for 462 sugar, chapped lips, for 474 twist 530 Cane chairs, cleaning 289 renovation of 289 Canker, preserves, in 559 Canned fruit, market, packing for 543 goods, price, fixing, on 549 storeroom for 79 Canning 547 fruit 553 utensils for 548 materials for 551 methods of 552 process of 551 Cannon, bronze for 391 bronze, of 390 Cans, baking powder 78 cocoa 78 garbage, galvanized iron, of 146 milk 135 tin 78 tomato, footstools, for 49 Canvas, box for 235 collars, old, for 247 drawn rugs, for 44 filters, for 117 flreproofing 93 paint for 354 shoes, white, cleaning 420 stains, removal of 160 stove holders, for 129 tents, waterproofing M waterproofing 93 Caoutchouc 338 nature of 338 Capacity, measures of 617, 643 comparison of 623 Caramel, the sgo Caramels 517, 53G Carat weight 625 Caraway, sachet, for 477 Carbolic acid, ant nests, tor destroying 320 cockroaches, for destroying 312 disinfecting 145 flies, for 312 INDEX 687 PAGE Carbolic acid, hands, for the 464 Inlt, in 427 moid, for preventing in 432 Iodine stains, prevention of 165 medicine case, solution in 649 mosquito bites, for curing 326 prevention of 326 moths, repellent for 306 mucilage, for preserving 341 pastes, for preserving ' 339 poisoning from 660 soap 451 soap, ants, for exterminating 319 Carbon dioxide (see carbonic-acid gas) dioxygen, breathing, in 104 indelible Ink, in 165 kerosene, In 104 lamps, in 104 monoxide, breathing of lU paper, linen, for stamping 232 steel, in 385 sulphide of, amber cement, in 344 Carbonate of ammonia, smelling salts 158 of copper, poisons, as 139 of iron, test for 115 of lead, Eulphureted hydrogen, test for 59 wood, for gilding on 410 of soda, bleaching wool, for 183 chalk, for prepared 436 Carbonic acid, poisoning from 651 gas, atmosphere in 69 breathing in 104 necessary in 58 of Ill fires, for extinguishing 89 gas stoves, from 85 limewater, testing 69 oil stoves, from 85 soda, from 89 sulphuric acid, from 89 Cardboard, fringe, for mending 242 Carmine lake, ink, for red 430 red paint, for 363 rouge, for 472 varnish, ceruse, for making 371 Carnation color, paint, mixing 364 Carpet beater, blankets, for 218 beetle 310 ingrain 39 lining, table pad, for 73 linings, oilcloth, under 40 pattern, matching 44 rag 43 mending 269 rags 43 denim 42 preparation of 43 storing 43 stretching 269 sweeper 260 care of 252 toy 262 sweepers, dust, for preventing 254 Carpeting rooms, cost of 615 Carpets, beating 269-270 buffalo moths feed on 310 choosing 43 cleaning 270 custom in use of 41 cutting 44 dusting 251 faded, freshening 255, 270 fleas, favor 314 freshening 255 grease, to remove, from 271 hardwood floors, replaced by 34 laying 269 moths, to protect from 307 old, mats, for door 80 patching 273 PAGE Carpets, patterns, small, in 43 prevention of weat :... 269 rag, cleaning 271 rugs, replaced by 34 sewing 44 stair 273 prevention of wear 269 sweeping 269 taking up 268 wear, preventing 269 Carriage bodies, varnish for 425 robes, cleaning With 223 Carriages, painting 360 Cart, child's, clothes, for 220 clothes basket, for 219 Cartridge paper, hanging 282 living rooms, for 37 walls, for 36 Carving, imitation of 34 wood, polishing 382 Caseharden, iron 385 steel 385 Casein cement 344 lime paint, in 361 Cases, intestine, sausage, for 596 pillow, filling 64 Cashmere, renovating 246 shawls, washing 217 washing 216 Cask, sour, sweetening a 262 Casks, care of 262 cement for 346 measurements of 623 Cassia, linen, for preserving 232 sachet, for 477 Cast iron, aluminum for 397 chips of 388 copperplating 400 tempering 386 varnish tor 369 Castile soap 198 almond paste, for 469 preparations, in 466 blacking, for 424 chemical soap, in 162 cleansing mixture, in 161 furniture, in paste for 382 for polishing 381 fur skins, for tanning 416 glove cleaner 178 hands, for the 453 kid gloves, for 178 for cleaning 179 lace, for cleaning 213 plaster of Paris, for hardening ... 436 silk, for cleaning 171 silks, for washing 215 silver, for cleaning 413 starch with 224 sunburn lotions, in 465 teeth, for the 607 walls, for damp 284 Castings, cement for mending ........ 348 copper, improvement of 389 solder for 386 Castor beans, mosquitoes, for repelling 326 oil, collodion cement, in 350 harness, for 418,425 kid boots, for 420 poison, antidote for 660 shoes, for 419-421 Catalogue, book 71 Catarrh, ventilation, poor, caused by. 59 Cats, fleas on 315 Catsup, currant 583 tomato 582 Cattle, weight of 626 Cauliflower 607 pickled 679 Caustic lime, water, for clarifying.... 116 lye, enameled ware, for ....,., 137 688 INDEX PAOE Caustic potash, drip trays, washing . . 131 linen, for bleaching 182 plaster of Paris, for hardening ... 436 refrigeration, for 122 soap, for soft 449 taste, removal of woody 136 soda, almond soap, in 449 axle grease, in 378 hard soap from 195 linen, for bleaching 182 lye, soap from 197 washing fluid 205 sealing wax, tor white 375 Caution, washing, in 204 Cautions, acids, in use of 156 irons, care of 227 lamps, when buying 104 silver, polishing, in 143 woolen goods, for 216 Cayenne pepper, mouse holes, for 316 vinegar 569 Cedar chests, moths, repellent for 306 oil of, moid, prevention of 69 sachet, for 477 wood, moths, for repelling 307 Ceiling, discoloration of, preventing ,. 98 Ceilings 37 blue wash for 280 calclmined 38 paper, hung with" 37-38 treatment of 37 whitewashed 38 Celery, keeping 604 Cellars, bins tor 263 cleaning 261 dampness in 262 disinfecting 263 dust in 263 vegetable 262, 604 ventilation of 262 warm, keeping 262 whitewash for 263 Cellulose, fibers, vegetable, contain 163, 181 Cement 342 acid-proof 350 Armenian 342 asphalt used in 367 bathroom floor, for 67 casein 344 collodion 350 colored 350 compound 349 construction, rat -proof 318 coppersmith's 350 diamond 342 flour 339 making 339 glass, for 349 gum-arabic 340 ironware 347 Japanese 339 rice, book pages, for torn 71 leather 349 litharge 347 plaster of Paris 347 rat holes, for 318 rosin 343, 344 rubber 345 for mending 421 use of 338 waterproof, cellars, for 262 kitchen walls, for 74 white of egg 344 wood 349 Cements, rosin, use of, in 366 Centerpieces, embroidered 233 Center table 53 Centipede, house 311 Cereal boxes, uses of 78, 335 diet 646 PAGI Cesspool 113 drainage from sinks, for 75 waste pipes 146 Cesspools, bacteria in 253 kerosene for mosquitoes in 325 Chafing dish, packing a 303 dishes, denatured alcohol, heated with m Chain, gold, cleaning 433 Chair cushions 50 rail, dado, with 38 wall, for tinted 39 Chairs 53 cane, cleaning 289 renovation of 289 selection of 53 wicker 63 willow 53 Chalk, absorbent, as an 159 cement, in compound 349 French, grease, removal of, from silk 170 kid gloves, polishing 179 oil stains, for 173 woolen cloth, for dry-cleaning 177 gilding size, for 411 hard water, for softening 204 Ivory, for bleaching 142 mildew, for 159 removal of, from linen 168 poison, antidote for 650 powdered, mildew, removal of 164 prepared, books, for 69 burnishing powder, in 294 calcimine, in 353 making' 486 scouring mixture, in 162 silver, cleaning 145 for polishing 143 teeth, for the 506 white paint, for 362 sheepskins, for tanning 417 stone varnish, in 372 Chamber work 146 Chambers, cleaning 266 Chambray, pillows, covering 50 Chamois, alabaster, for polishing 436 brass fittings, for polishing 128 for polishing 300 cleaning 179 dry, tinware, polishing 138 furniture, for polishing 381 gilt frames, for wiping 290 glassware, polishing 141 Ivory, for polishing 434 leather, duster, as 254 mirrors, for cleaning 286 paint, tor cleaning 277 sealing wax, for polishing 375 silver, for polishing 143 protecting 142 skin, furniture, for 287 windows, for cleaning 284 Chandelier, cleaning 292 Chapped hands 454 camphor for 455 remedies for 455 lips 473 preparations for 473 Charcoal 126 animal, lacquer, for transparent 407 nature of 423 black paint, in 364 earthenware, cleaning 138 filters, for 117 fish oil, for purifying 377 green paint, in 363 gutta percha, for cleaning 296 ice box, for 121 iron, for drawing temper of 385 kindling, as 126-127 musty bottles, sweetening 141 INDEX 689 PAGE Charcoal, odors, for killing 131 removal of 135, 310 refrigerators, for 122 silver, for melting 412 tooth powder 506 water, purifying 115 Cheap quilts 65 Cheese, rat traps, bait for 317 cloth, bedroom curtains, for 46 blankets, for mending 268 dishcloth, as 136 draughts, for preventing 60 dusting, for 254 quilts, for 65 for protecting 66 Chemical Are extinguishers 90 soap 162 Chemicals, fires, to extinguish 89 Chemistry of lamps 103 Chenille Axminster carpet 39 Cherries, pickled 681 Cherry preserves 566 Chest, bleeding of 655 ice, making 121 of tools, workroom, for the 334 wounded 647 Chestnut coal, economical, most 127 color, paint, mixing 364 Chests, linen, for 231 Chicken, broiled, invalids, for 667 broth, invalids, for 666 creamed, invalids, for 667 feathers 63 wings, fire box, brushing out 124 Chiffon, complexion, for preserving the 447 Children, bed for, separate 58 surroundings of 33 teeth of 503 young, hot-weather care of 672 Chill vinegar 569 Chimney lamp, wrong 102 smoky, curing a 87 soot, cleaning out 88 turn cap on 88 wind shield on 88 Chimneys 87 breaking of 103 cleaning 88 dampness, prevention of 87 extra, buying 148 fires, to put out 88 gas, light from, loss of 97 lamp 102 breaking of •... 103 prevention of 149 care of 149 cleaning 148 draught of 102 fit of 102 object of 102 polishing 148 shape of 102 leaks, stopping 88 object of 87 selection of 103 smoky, preventing 87 soot, prevention of 87 ventilating 87 ventilators, as 87,263 water cement for 87 zinc, cleaning with 88 China 73 cabinet, dishwashing, for 133 cement for 347 cleaning 145 closet 73 egg, darning ball, as 244 gilding for 410 removal of 410 gum-arabic cement for 340 Jsinglass for 342 PAGE China, mending 350 packing 300 repairing 138 sealing wax for 343 selection of 73 shellac cement for 343 silk, washing 215 size, for gilding on 410 washing 133 Chinese cement, shellac in 343 lanterns 106 sand in 105 Chintz, bran for 211 washing, careful 209 Chloral, poisoning from 650 Chloride, ink, in logwood 427 of gold, gold-plating, f qr 404 ivory, for gilding ...'. 411 of lime, books, for ink stains on . . . 70 discolored silver, for cleaning 143 enameled ware, for 137 flsh oil, putrid, purifying 377 hands, stains, removal from 453 ink eraser, as 70 stains, white goods, removal from 433 kerosene oil, purifying 102 linen, for bleaching 182 mildew, removal of 164 mold, walls, removal from 284 prints, cleaning 70 removal of odors 135 silver, ink, removal from 144 sinks, cleaning 75,145 straw, for bleaching 184 tea and coffee stains, for 163 water, for clarifying 116 wicks, for candle 107 wine stains, removal of 169 of potash, javelle water 160 matches, in packing 437 safety matches, for 436 of silver, silvering, for 413 of soda, wine stains, for 173 Chlorinated soda, vaseline stains, for 164 Chlorine, aluminum corroded by 397 bleaching agent, powerful 169 for 182 gas, bleaching agent 181 gold dissolved by 408 mildew, for 157 soap with 451 use of 159 water, acid stains, on linen, re- moval of 167 scorch, for removing 231 tannin stains, removal of 167 wool, for bleaching 183 Chloroform, acid stains, to remove ... 168 camphor dissolved by 159 chemical soap, in 162 colors, restoration of .' 123, 169, 172 glove cleaners, in 178 grease on silk, removal of :.. 170 moths, for destroying 306 old stains, for 169 paint dissolved by 164 for removing 278 plush, reviving faded 172 poisoning from 650 rubber cement, for 345 rugs, for cleaning 270 uses of 159 velvet, for cleaning 170 tor reviving faded 172 Chlorophyll, grass stain 163 Chlorophyllan, grass stains, in 163 tartaric acid, for 167 Chocolate caramels 536 cream bonbons 526 candy 624 690 INDEX PAGE Chocolate creams 524 coating for 524 color, paint, mixing 364 fondant 523 ice, invalids, for 671 icing 543 kisses 537 -walnuts 535 Chops, French, invalids, for 668 Chowchow 577 Chrome, French polish, for coloring . . 379 green, bronze paint, in 402 making 363 logwood ink 165 making 427 yellow, sealing wax, for 375 Chutney, Bengal 577 Cider vinegar 565 filter for 117 Cinchona bark, toothpowder 506 Cinders, from large coal 82 removal of, each morning 128 Cinnabar, nature of 398 Cinnamon, chemical soap, in 163 drops 632 linen, for preserving 232 oil of, honey soap, for 449 perfumes, for 476 toilet water, for 481 punch, invalids, for 669 soap 450 sugar, preparation of 542 Circassian cream 473 complexion, for the 473 Circular measure 637 Cistern filter 116 light in 106 tile, made of 116 water, laundry, for 203 Cisterns, compartments, built in two 116 lead for lining 391 measurements of 623 screens for 325 wooden, cement for 346 Citric acid, books, for cleaning, and ink stains on 70 ink stains, for 173 saturated solution of 157 solution, dilute, of 157 use of 167 Citron, essence of, perfumes, for 476 pickled 582 preserving 557 soap 460 Civet, linen, for preserving 232 Clam broth. Invalids, for 663 shell, kettles, scraping 137 pot scraper, as 134 shells, clinkers, removal of 128 ClapboardlDg, cost of 614 Clay, white, grease, for 170 Cleaners, glove 178 vacuum 254 Cleaning refrigerator 122 spring house 260 stoves 123 Cleansers, silver 144 Cleansing mixtures 161 Bilk, for 171 Clematis, ice houses, for 120 veranda, for 80 Clinkers from large coal 82 prevention of 128 removal of 128 Clocks, cleaning 2i)3 oiling 293 Closed stoves 85 Closet, china 73 clothes, substitute for 07 economical 235 laundry , , 155 PAGE) Closet, linen 231 sewing room, for 234 shelves in 234 unfinished garments, for 235 Closets, cleaning 264 dampness in 76 Cloth, cement for 345 cotton, bleaching 1S2 rough wall, on 282 dado, cotton or linen, for 38 lace, for the 447 fireproofing 92 fomentations, for 660 measure 613 nap, raising, on 245 paint for 362 scarlet, cleaning 177 silvering 413 walls, for '• 36 waterproofing 93, 369 woolen, dry-cleaning 177 Clothes, alkalies rot .' 205 bluing 222 boiling 202 boys', mending 242 dingy color of 220 drying 219 in bad weather 221 hamper 154 towels, for soiled 154 hanger, barrel hoop as a 309 hanging out 220 hints 240 men's, cleaning 173 mending 242 packing 302 pressing 174, 175 renovation of 175 woolen, cleaning 175 moth 304 history of 304 moths, protecting against 306 packing 309 rinsing 203 rubbing 202-203 soaking 203 starching 222 taking down 220, 229 wringer, ironing, for 229 wringing , 203 Clotheshorse, clothes, for drying 221 Clotheslines, care of 220 gutta-percha 219 kinks in, to avoid 220 preservation of 219 rope 219 selection of 219 washing 219 Clothespin, window sashes, rattling, preventing 286 Clothespins, apron lor 219 bag for 21S basket for 219 flour sack for 219 handy, to have 219 hot 219 oilcloth bag for 219 painting 219 preservation of 219 wooden 219 Clothing, men's, chemical soap for 162 Cloths, stoves, for polishing 129 Clove pastilles 53a sugar, preparation of 542 Cloves, lavender water, for 481 linen, for preserving 232 moths, repellent for 306 oil of, cologne, for 476 Florida water, tor 482 mucilage, for preserving 341 paste, library, In 339 INDEX 691 PAGE Cloves, sachet, for 477 Cluny lace, curtains, for 45 Coal ashes, scouring with 137 tins, scouring 133 chunks of, kindling 124 economy of 127 (hard or soft), fuel, as 81 furnace 127 gas 95 bard, kindling 124 range 127 saving 127 scuttles, varnish for 369 sizes of 81 small sizes, use of 82 stove, heating, for 85 stoves, heating system, as 82 tar, cellars, prevention of dampness in 262 gas, by-products of 95 Coating, chocolate creams, for 524 Coats, men's, packing 302 Cobs, kerosene, with, as kindling 126 Cochineal, ink, for red 429 rouge, for 472 Cockroach, bedbugs, enemy of 314 books, in 69 common 311 exterminating 311 traps for 312 Cocoa butter, cold cream, for 470 cans 78 uses of 78 oil, fixed vegetable oil 376 Cocoanut candies 535 drops 532 kisses 637 maple bonbons 527 marshmallow bonbons 527 oil, marine soap, in 198, 450 soap, in 198 squares 535 strawberry bonbons 527 Cod fat 600 liver oil, kerosene, for removing . . , 107 stains 167 ammonia for 158 Coffee, black, laces, for tinting 230 silk, for cleaning 171 caramels 536 cup, measurement by 630 icing 644 ink, thickening, preventing from 432 mill, cleaning 137 pastilles 532 poison, antidote tor 660 pots, cleaning 138 musty odor, prevention of 139 shelves for 75 sleeplessness, cause of 152 stains 163, 169 butter for 168 linen, on 163,169 stove polish. In 128 Coke 126 coal, from 81 fuel, as 81-82 gas, a by-product of 95 kindling, as 126-127 Colander, cleaning 138 Cold air box, screened 84 soldered joints 84 boxes, high winds blowing Into... 84 baths 439 cream, basis of 470 complexion, for the 447 fingernails, for the 455 hands, tor the 453 nails, for toughening the 456 creams 470, 484 storage fruits 118 PAOH Cold storage, meats, of 118 vaults, furs, for 308 vegetables 118 Colds, cause of 441 preventive of 441 Colic, cause of 672 Collar bone, fracture of 658 Collars, creases, removal of 246 Ironing 228 old canvas, use of, for 247 ribbed iron for 226 starching 225 Collodion cement 350 cuts, for 655 Jewelry, for storing 433 silver, protecting 142 tools, rust, protecting from 334 Cologne spirits (see alcohol). Colonial chairs 63 Colophony 366 nature of 3G6 Color and light 36 black 94 floor oil, to 274 floors, on 42 furniture, to renovate the 289 Kitchen, for the 74 rag-carpet warp, to 43 scheme, basis of 36 carpets should harmonize 43 dining room, for 73 harmonious 36 schemes, decoration, in 85 south rooms, toning down, for .... 36 walls, to 38 yellow, clothes, of 220 Colored articles, freezing, faded by... 220 cement 350-351 clothes, starching 225 copal varnish 371 curtains 214 washing 214 flannel, washing , 217 goods, bluing for 222 bran, to wash, with 211 cautions for 209 cleaning 172 color of, to fix 210 don'ts for 209 drying 210 hanging out 220 ironing 228 lemon juice on . : 157 oxalic acid, bleaching 156 raw potatoes, to clean with 211 red stains from 167 rinsing 210 salt on 157 soap for 193 sprinkled, not to be 222 sudsing 209 tartaric acid on 158 washing 209 wringing 210 ink, making 429 paints, mixing 362 sealing wax 374 silks, ironing 229 stains, removal, from 172 washing 215 woolen dress goods, washing 216 woolens, sudsing 216 washing 216 Coloring matters 461 toilet preparations, for 461 Colorings, candy, for 640 Colors 37 and patterns 37 blue, in carpets 43 brightening 268 carpets, in 43 692 INDEX PAGE Colors, dark, in carpets 43 fixing 210 delicate, iron for 228 faded, reviving 176 green, in carpets 43 harmonious 34 light and delicate, bedrooms, tor ... 36 absorb 36 in carpets 43 reflect 36 neutral 43 quiet and subdued 34 solid, effect of 37 light to fix 210 linens, to fix in 211 Comb, honey, preservation in 544 Combs, washing 485 Combustion, principles of 123 products of 86 spontaneous, fires from 148 Comforters 64 hose for rinsing 218 (see quilts) 218 washing 218 Commercial ice, harvesting 118 Commodities, weight of 627 Common twine, uses of 77 Commonplace book 72 Complexion paste 468 preservation of 447 the 446 Compound cements 349 glues 348 Compounding toilet preparations 461 Concrete cellars, ' preventing damp- ness in 262 construction, rat-proof 318 painting, specification for 357 Conductivity, metals of 383 metals, properties of 383 Confectioner's fondant 523 Confectionery, coloring 541 Construction, rat-proof 318 Consumption, fresh air, cured by 59 ventilation, caused by poor 59 Conveniences, sewing-room 236 Convulsions 651 Cook stove, cleaning 128 Cooking beans in ash pan 127 utensils, cleaning 137 washing 132 Cooks' proportions, table of 634 time-table 631 Cooling bag, a 121 box 121 Copal 365 gold lacquer, for 407 ink in marking 428 varnish 367, 370 colored 371 French polish, in 379 leather, for waterproofing 423 nature of 365 patent leather, for 425 shoes, for 419 stained floors, for 275 steel, for keeping, polished 388 turpentine 371 varnishes 370 Copper, acetate of, ink, in 427 for green ink 430 bean-shot 389 brazing 400 carbonate, ammonlacal. insects, for destroying 329 castings, improvement of 389 coins, English 642 color, iron, for 389 compound of 389 electroplating with 400 feather-shot SS9 PAOE Copper, gold plating 405 green, for coloring bronze 401 ink, for metal label 431 iron, for coloring 389 nature of 389 pickles, testing for 572 rivet of, ironware, for mending 387 solder 394 solution, iron, for 400 sulphate of, blackheads, for 439 fabrics, flreproofing 92 poisoning from 651 solution, insects, for destroying. . . 329 spraying 329 zinc varnish. In 372 test for 115, 389 tin, coating with 393 tinning 399 ware 137-139 cleaning 137 salt for 137 use of 139 vinegar for 136 whitening 390, 401 zincking 400 Copperas, black silk, for cleaning 171 canvas, flreprooflng 93 carpets, in dyeing 43 cellars, for cleaning 262 cloth, flreproofing 92 drain, in 113 flres, for putting out : . 91 prevention of 92 floors, for staining 274 green, gold, for coloring 434 ink, in 426 iron, compound of 335 leather, for black 417 tanning 415 in waterproofing 423 lime paint, in 361 odors, removal of 113 sinks, cleaning 145 stove polish, in 128 Coppering solutions, metals, for 400 Coppersmith's cement 350 Copy, manuscript, counting 636 Copying ink, making 42S inks 42S Coral tooth powder 506 Coriander seed, sachet, for 477 Cork carpet, bathroom, for 67 linoleum, in 40 Corks, window sashes, for supporting 286 Corn, drying 608 green, pickled 579 meal bags, dishcloths, as 136 calcimined walls, for cleaning 284 carpets, for 255 when sweeping 269 furs, for cleaning 180 gloves, for cleaning 177 gruel, invalids, for 670 hands, for softening the 453 Panama hats, cleaning isi shirt waists, dry-cleaning 167 soap 449 soot, carpets, removal from 2'71 straw, for bleaching I84 wall paper, for cleaning 283 vinegar 566, Corncobs, lighters, as flre 105 Corned beef, improving 593 Corners, window 285 Cornices, painting, specifications for .. 357 Corns, anatomy of the 438 Cornstarch, blood stains, for 159 curtains, for starching 231 dextrin, in ' " 337 laces, in starching ' 230 laundry, for the ,] 223 INDEX 693 PAQB Cornstarch, mud stains, for 173 paper-hanger's paste. In 339 wash balls, for 460 Correspondence, place set apart for . . 68 Corrosive sublimate, flour paste, in... 339 ink, in 427 mold, for preventing 432 leather, for black 417 medicine case, in 649 moths, destruction of 308 mucilage, for preserving 341 nature of 398 poisoning from 650 scab, for preventing 329 spraying with 329 Corsets, mending 243 washing 208 Cosmetics 484 Cottolene 601 Cotton, absorbent, medicine case, in.. 649 medicine closet^ in 662 batting, pillows, for fancy 49 quilts, for 65 stair carpets, padding for 273 steel knives and forks, for 141 blankets 266 house cleaning, when 266 mattress top, for 64 citric acid for 157 cloth, bleaching 182 darning, box for 235 receptacle tor 235 dress skirts, cleaning 168 fancy crochet, darning, for 244 felted, mattresses, for 62 flannel, table pad, for 73 goods, fine, washing 208 lace, washing 211 linseed oil, with 42 mildew, removing, from 183 muriatic acid for 168 oxalic acid, application of 156 Persian, curtains, for 45 quilts, amount for 66 sheeting 64 silvering 413 stains on 166 sterilized absorbent 647 tartaric acid for 168 underwear, dishcloths, as 136 vegetable fiber 163 waterproofing 93 white, ink stains, removing from 166 window shades, for 47 Couch 52 covers 52 pillows for 52 veranda, for 80 Cough candies 540 Counterfeit silver, U. S. Mint test for 413 Counterpanes, hanging out 220 Counting, groups, in 636 Country homes tastefully furnished . . 34 Court-plaster, medicine closet, in 662 Coverings, wall, fading of 66 Covers, bed 62 magazine 57 pillow 50 Crab apples 555 Crack, candy making, in 619 Cracked articles, repairing 138 Crack-fillers, carpet beetles, for de- stroying 311 Cracks, cement for filling 347-349 filling 42, 74 furniture, filling up, in 378 plaster, repairing, in 281 Cradles, children, for 68 Craftsman chairs . .- 63 Cranberries, preserving 657 Crape, cleaning 176 PAGE Crape, lace, cleaning 176 Crash, laundry bags, for 154 pillows, covering 50 Crayon marker 240 Crazy quilts, making 65 Cream 521 candies 524 candy 517-525 Circassian 473 fresh, skin, for the 463 leather furniture, tor 418 milk, tor baby's 673 ot tartar 156 acetic acid 157 acid principle ot 167 brass, in tinning 399 discolored silver, for cleaning .... 143 gilding, for coloring : 410 gloves, for cleaning 177 for dry-cleaning 178 grass stains, for 163 ink, for red 430 stains, removal of 166 Iron rust, for 164 silver, for polishing 143 stains, removal of 453 white goods, bleaching 185 walnuts 435 Creams 517 shaving 499 Creased velvet, renovation ot 246 Creases, collars, removal from 246 Creeks, water supply for 112 Creolin, fleas on cats, tor 316 Creosote, mosquito bites, prevention of 326 poisoning from 650 white ants, avoiding 321 Cretonne, bran, for 211 curtains, tor 45 pocket, patterns, tor 237 stove holders, for 130 Crib, Morris chair as 67 Cribs, capacity of 620 children, for 58 Crickets, exterminating 312 Crochet needle, stockings, to mend, with 244 stitch, darning with 244 wojk, washing 217 Crocneted goods, hanging out 220 shawls, washing 217 Crockery, white-of-egg' cement for ... 344 Croton bugs 311 Crucibles, platinum for 399 workroom, in the 336 Crude oil (see petroleum) petroleum, spraying with 330 Crust, tea kettle, inside the 116 Crystallized popcorn 639 Crystals, sirup for 520 Cubic measure 617 Cucumber milk, complexion, for the . . 463 pickles 5'77 vinegar 669 Cucumbers, diet, in 646 freshening 572 large, pickling 674 pickles, preservation of, for 671 pickling 572 selection of, for 570 preserving 557 Cuffs, ironing 228 ribbed iron for 226 Cupboard, kitchen, in 133 Cure, fresh-air 59 Curling fluids 496 hair, the 495 irons, denatured alcohol, heated with 111 Currant catsup 683 paste drops • 632 pastilles 532 694 INDEX PAGE Currants, icld principle of 167 preserving B57 Curry powder 586 vinegar 670 Curtain rings 48 stove holders, tor 130 rod, curtains, for stretclilng 214 stretcher %..., 214 Curtains 45 bedrooms, for 45-61 broad windows, for 47 colored 214 washing 214 doing up 231 drying 214 dyeing 46 house cleaning, when 265 Ironing 231 lace 211 airing 213 hanging 46 launder, when to 213 laundering 213 mending 46 washing 211 laundry, preparation for 214 muslin 45 sick room, for 664 sash 46 flour sacks for 47 starching 230 stretching 214 window 45 materials for 45 Cushions, chair 50 footstools, for 49 Cut glass, care of 139 cleaning 140 , cutting 301 I packing 301 washing 140 Cuticle scissors, nails, for the 456 Cuts, treatment of 655 Cutting 249 bias folds 249 scissors 239 silk 249 tools, bronze, for 391 waists, scissors for A. 239 Cuttlefish-bone tooth powder 506 Dado, wall, for tinted 39 Dadoes, effect of .- 38 Damp walls, drying 284 Dampers, range, managing of 127 Dampness, cellar, removal of, in 263 cellars, prevention in 262 chimneys, prevention in 87 closets, prevention In 76 linen, preserving, from 232 prevention of 263,284 Dandruff 485 Darning ball 244 cotton, box for 235 crochet stitch for 244 Invisible 242 needle, threading a 238 . sewing machine for 242 stockings on sewing machine 244 thread for 244 woolen goods 241 stockings 244 woolens, on 241 Dashboards, varnish for 425 Date candy B33 creams 526 Davenport, making a 52 Days, good old, domestic arts In 333 Decanters, stoppers of, loosening 292 Decorating 33 Decoration, color schemes in 35 PAGE Decoration, trend in ^ 34 Decorations, backgrounds for 38 bedrooms, for 61 Degrees, sugar boiling, in 519 Delft china, dining room, for sunny .. 36 Den, magazine covers for 57 red for a 36 Denatured alcohol 109 cost of 110 lighting, for 110 Denim, floor covering 42 linseed oil, with 42 pillows, covering 50 rugs, background for 42 stove holders, for 130 Dental work 513 Dentifrices 505 Dentists, gold used by 408 Dentists' amalgam 514 nerve paste 514 Depilatories, moles, for 440 Design, absence of 37 carpets, in 43 Designs, beautiful 34 embroidery, transferring 247 large figured, unfashionable 34 simple 34 Desks, writing 68 Dextrin 337 mucilage 340 nature of 337 Diamond cement 342 Dictionary, library, for the 69 Diet, vegetables 646 Digestion during sleep 151 Diluents 460 toilet preparations 460 Dimity, bedspreads, for 63 curtains, for bedroom 45 Dining room 73 wall coverings for 73 Dining rooms, leather, imitation, for. 37 Diphtheria, kitchen sinks, due to 74 Dirt, avoiding 34, 42 definition of 201 wounds, removal from 648 Dlscoloratlons, silver, removal from . . 148 Disease, flies cause of 321 toxins cause 253 Diseases, filth, germs of 145 Dish drainer, dishwashing, for 134 kitchen, for 135 draining 135 mop, dishcloths, as 136 towels 136 care of 136 linen, old, for 232 Dishcloths 136 care of 136 clean, keeping 136 line for 134 linen, old, for 232 Manila rope for 136 twine, from common 77 washboard for 134 Dishes, greasy, lye for 133 milk, washing 135 washing, soap shaker for 199 Dishrag gourd, dishcloths, as 136 Dishwashing 132 conveniences for 133 machines 134 mop, stoves, for polishing 128 washing powders, for 207 Dishwater, disposition of 75 greasy 133 Disinfect refrigerators 122 Disinfectant, cellars, for 262 DIsinfeetion, cellars 263 Dislocations, treatment of 657 Disperene, insects, for destroying .... 330 INDEX PAGE Dlsperene, spraying with 330 Distilled viuegar ...667 water 460 Doctor, consultation of 647 Doctors, beauty 446 Dog bite, treatment of 655 Dogs, fleas on 315 rats, to kill 317 Doilies, ironing 229 Dollar, aliquot parts of 641 Domestic art, soap malcing, of 186 arts, comforters 65 good old days in 333 quilts 65 Axminster carpet 39 measure, tables of 629 Door mat 80 plates, cleaning ',[', 145 Doors creaking, prevention of 286 folding or sliding 51 keeping open 286 Dough, wall paper, for cleaning 283 Dragon's blood, French polish, for col- oring 379 liquid rouge, for 472 toilet preparations, for 461 Drain, disinfectiog the 145 sink 113 Drainage, ice boxes, of 119 houses, of 119 mosquitoes destroyed by 325 refrigerators, of 119 sinks, from 75 surface 113 Draining dishes 135 Drainpipes, clearing 263 disinfecting 145 importance of 113 Drains, bacteria in 253 cellars, for 262 copperas for 113 kerosene, tor mosquitoes 325 open, mosquitoes, breed 325 tar varnish for 372 Draperies 15, 45, 48 bedrooms, discarded from 150 burlap for 48 cleaning 48 dusting 251 house cleaning, when 265 leather scraps for 48 living rooms, for 51 summer, taking down in 48 Draught, cause of 88 combustion, for 123 explanation of 124 furnace 83 sick room, preventing in 662 Draughts, avoiding 42 candle, protection from 109 prevention of 50, 60-61 range, managing of 127 Drawers, cleaning 264 lubrication of 264 Drawing board, library, for the 69 room furniture, linen walls, with .. 38 Drawings, varnish for 373 Drawn rugs, making 44 Dreams, nature of 151 Dress, babies, proper, for 674 blue linen, uses of 247 brown linen, uses of 247 goods, chemical soap for 162 crazy quilts, pieces for 66 silk, washing 215 washing with rice 217 white, starch 225 woolen, chemical soap for 162 crazy quilts, pieces for 66 renovating 174 shields, rubber, gasoline, spoiled by 160 page; Dresses, delicate, soap, not to be rubbed with 208 kitchen 247 morning 247 Bilk 242 mending 242 woolen, cleaning 175 Dressing table 67 Drills, Are 91 boys, for 91 lubricator for 378 Drinking water 114 boiling 116 rain water, from 114 rivers, from 114 springs, from 114 wells, from 114 Drinks, invalids, for 669 Drip pan, water in 132 Dripping pan, drainer, as a 135 Drop candy 517 Drops, ginger 532 Drowning 659 Drugget, bran for 266 Druggists' abbreviations 626 Drum, bathrooms, for heating 442 radiator, stovepipe, on the 86 Drunkenness, fainting from 651 Dry beans, storing 607 cleaning shirt waists 167 white goods 167 measure 620 domestic 630 liquid measure, and, comparison of 622 Dryer, paint, for 360 Dryers, drying oils, for 376 printers' ink, for 432 Drying oils, preparation of 376 Duck cloth, mildew on 183 feathers 63 stains, to remove 160 stove holders, for 129 waterproofing 93 Ductility, metals, property of 383 Dull scissors, sharpening 239 Dung, leather, for 415 Duplex paper, hanging 282 living rooms, for 37 walls, for 36 Dust 252 avoiding 34, 42, 250 cellars, prevention of 263 cloth, piano, for 289 ironware, removal from 137 painting, avoiding, in 354 piano, excluding from 54 prevention of 84, 251, 253 register, from the 84 removal of 254 road, white paint, in 362 sterilization of 253 Dusters 254 wing 255 Dusting 252-254 books 69 registers 84 walls 283 Dutch process, bleaching, of 182 Dye, black, harness, tor 425 renovating with 174 bluing, in making 222 colored silks. In 'hashing 215 hair 493 silk stockings, tor 216 Dyeing curtains 46 Dyestuff, wall paper, for renovating . . 284 DyestufEs, carpets, for faded 271 Earthen jar, matches, for 130 Earthenware, brown stains, removal from 139 696 INDEX PAOEl Earthenware, cement for 344 cleaning 138 gum-arabic cement for 340 repairing 138 water, l^eeplng, cool 115 Ebony, floors, for staining 274 Economics, tablecloth 233 Economies, fuel 127 small 77 Economy, stove heat 86 Ecru, looms, toning down for south . . 36 Edging, embroidery, underwear 248 lace, laundry, preparation for the... 212 Education, candle making, in 106 musical, cost of 53 Educational influence, housefurnish- ing, of 33 library, of 68 passing of 66 yalue, manual work, of 333 nails, in driving 336 Perry pictures, of 72 Egg and coffee, Invalids, for 670 beater, cleaning 137 cream. Invalids, tor 669 gruel. Invalids, for 670 lemonade, invalids, for 670 sandwiches, invalids, for 668 stains, silver, removal from 144 whip, rack for 76 white of, almond paste, for 469 cement 344 gilding size, for 412 kid gloves, for cleaning 179 labels, for 79 leather furniture, for cleaning . . . 418 men's clothes, for cleaning 175 picture frames, for 290 silk, for cleaning 171 starch, with 225 straw hats, for 181 windows, sun, keeping out of 286 yolk of, almond paste, for 469 coffee stains, for 168 grease, on silk, removal of 170 old stains, for 169 Eggnog, invalids, for 670 Eggs, dried 603 golden-rod, invalids, for 667 methods of preserving 602 packing 603 pickling 603 preservation of 601 storeroom for 79 ' testing 501 whites of, blacking, liquid, for 424 hearth, for blackening 130 poison, antidote for 649 stove polish, in 128 varnish, in, for window glass 372 yolks of, hands, chapped, for 466 Eggshells, bottles, cleaning 140 Eiderdown, covers, for bed 63 house cleaning, when 267 quilt, care of 267 Elastic, pumps, for 420 Elder flowers, toilet water, for 480 Electric bulb, cost per hour 94-95 health, effect on 94-95 needle, moles, for 440 railways, effects of 41 Electricity 109 accidents from 653 annual cost of 94 gold plating without 405 iron plating without 406 Electroplating 403 copper, with 400 hints for 406 nature of process 403 silver on Iron 406 PAGE Electroplating, silver nitrate, used In 412 Electrotypes, iron for 389 Eleotrotyplng 400, 403 experiment for 404 molds for 404 nature of process 403 plaster casts for 404 Embroidering, linen, to prepare, for. . 248 Embroidery, appliqug 247 box for 235 designs, transferring 247 edging for underwear 248 eyelet 248 orange stick for 248 hoop, mending, for 242 Ironing 228-229 scissors 239 silk 248 care of 248 washing 211 Emergency, what to do in 645 Emery, brass fittings, for cleaning 128 flour of, blackboards, in paint for... 361 oilstones, for straightening 378 wheel, workroom, in the 335 Emetics, poison, antidote for 650 Enamel, black, metal beds, for 266 ether varnish for repairing 371 gilt, beds, renovating 62 metal beds, for 266 painting on walls 359 on woodwork 359 pantry shelves, for 76 white, beds 61 kitchen sink, for 134 metal beds, for 266 Enameled ware 137 care of 137 soap, protected by 137 Encyclopedia, library, for the 69 Engineers' cement 347 English bar soap 196 dry measure 620 ivy, ice house, for protecting 120 measures of weight, old 625 money 642 walnut creams 526 Envelopes, casein cement for 345 dextrin for sealing 337 mucilage for 340 scrapbooks, as 71 Epsom salts, oxalic acid, distinguish- ing from 166 poison, antidote for 650 starch. In 224 Eraser, ink 70 rubber, pencil marks, for 155 Erasers, pencil, cleaning 72 Escape, fires, from 92 Escaping coal gas, avoiding 127 Essences 474 distilling 479 nature of * . 474 Essential oil, ink, mold, preventing, in 432 oils 376 linen, for preserving 232 mold, prevention of 69 sunburn lotions, for 465 test for 475 Ether, asphalt dissolved by 367 fixed oil dissolved by 376 glove cleaners, in ,', 178 oils, dissolved by 154 paint, for removing 278 poisoning from ',. 650 rosin, for dissolving 366 sulphuric, cleansing mixture, in 161 shellac cement, In 343 sulphurous, grease, removal of 69 varnishes 371 Evaporation, cooling box, from ! 122 INDEX 697 PAGE Evaporation, cooling by 147 Everton taffy 528 Elxcelsior, Icindling, as 125 mattresses 62 paolfing, for 300 pillows, for fancy 49 Exercise 645 too much 644 Expansion metal 392 Explosion, gas, from, avoiding 99-100 kerosene, from, avoiding 101 possible ot 104 prevention of 102 lamp, ot 105 molten silver, prevention of 412 nkture of 123 Explosions, gasoline, to avoid, from. . .160 lamps, prevention ot 103 pipes, in frozen 114 Extinguishers, fire 88 Eyebrows 501 Eyelashes 501 Eyelet embroidery, orange stick for.. 248 Eyes, examination of 647 Fabrics, colored, inks, removing, from 166 delicate, soap for 198 fireprooflng 92 mending, delicate 242 nature ot 162 white, ink stains, removal, from 433 Face, bleeding of 654 cloth 447 scrim as a 447 washing the 447 Faded ink, restoration of 432 manuscripts, restoration of 70 white goods, bleaching ot 185 Fading white goods, prevention of 184 Fainting 651 Fancy pillows, filling for 49 work 247 Chinese cement for 343 ironing 228 restoration ot, to shape 248 woolen 217 washing 217 Farm pests 326 Farmer's satin, ironing 228 Fashion, floors, bare, and rugs 41 Fasting, sleeplessness, cause of 152 Fat, cod 600 graining 189 Fatigue 646 Fats, animal, soap, in 187 Faucets, cement for leaking 350 tubs, for 201 wash boilers, for 201 Fawn color paint, mixing 364 Feather beds, care of 267 inadvisable 62 mattresses, replaced by 63 use ot 63 candy making, in 519 dusters 254 Feather^, bleaching 184 chicken 63 cleaning 179 grebe and other skins 180 curling 180 duck 63 fiber, animal 163 geese, live 63 goose 63 moths feed on 304 in 309 protecting from ■ 264 pillows 63 cleaning 267 filling 64 for 49, 63 PAGE Feathers, purifying 267 renovating 180 Feeding babies 674 Feet warm, keeping 147 Felt hats, chemical soap tor 162 ivory, for polishing 434 Fermentation 587 Fermenting, vinegar 563 Fern, taboret, for 53 Ferrets, rats, to kill 31T Ferrous sulphate, fires, for putting out 91 Fevers 14S Fiber brush, drip tray, scrubbing 131 ironware, scraping 133 oven racks, for 131 brushes, dishwashing, tor 134 Fibers, animal 163 feathers 163 furs 163 ink, removing from 169 silk 163 wool 163 vegetable 163 cotton 163 linen 163 stains, removal ot 168 Fig bars 533 candy 533 creams 526 leaves, black silk, for cleaning 171 gloss, removal of 178 Figs, green, preserving 55S File, scissors, for sharpening 239 Files, chemically, recutting 336 Filings, copper, iron, for coppering. . . 389 tin 394 Filler, hard- wood, floors, for 41 wood 380 Filling, fancy pillows, tor 49 floors, tor 42 ingrain, all-wool 42 rugs, background tor 42 teeth, temporary, for the 514 Filter cistern 116i water, homemade 117 Filters, water 116 Finger, fracture of 65? marks, furniture, removal from 287 nail, splinter under 64S nails, manicuring 455 Fingers, bleeding of 654 Finish, gloss, woolen goods, restoring on 244 Finishes, dull 34 Fire box, cleaning 124 chemicals, extinguishing, with 89 chimney, set, to 124 control in time ot 647 drills 91 boys, tor 91 escapes 88, 91 extinguisher, Graham, Wm, A., in- ventor 89 hand grenades 91 extinguishers 88 chemical 89-90 furnace, care of 127 laying 125 grate, kindling, in a 124 kerosene, extinguishing 91 lamps 105 in 105 range, coal, saving 127 shaking and cleaning 127 root, set to 124 screens, fireprooflng 92 water supply, for protection against 112 Fireplace, open, old-fashioned 85 Fireplaces, heating system, as 82 open, supplementary heat 86 698 INDEX PAGE Fireproof canvas 93 cement 345-348 cloth 92 fabrics 92 garments 92 paint 361 stone varnish 372 whitewash 280 wood 93 Flreproofing 92 Fires, carbonic-acid gas for putting out 89 care of 123 chimney, putting out 88 combustion, spontaneous, from 148 escaping from 92 extinguishing 88 kerosene for lighting 105 kindling 123 without smoke 88 laying 124 low, quickening 126 salt, quickening 126 preventing 92 salt, putting out with 88 sulphur for putting out 88 Fish, gelatin from 337 glue 337 nature of 337 live, gilding 411 mosquitoes, to kill 325 odors, removing, of 135 oil, deodorizing putrid 377 purification of 377 preservation of 590 Fishhook wounds 648 Fittings, nickel, prevention of rust . . 298 steel, cleaning 128 Fixed oil varnishes 367 oils 367, 376 Flames, combustion, in 123 Flannel, bleaching 184 brass fittings, tor cleaning 123 cloth, furniture, for 287 gilt frames, for wiping 290 fomentation cloths, for 660 goods, hanging out 220 hearth, cleaning the 128 outing, lamp wicks, for 149 paint, tor cleaning 277 steel knives and forks, for 141 stove holders, for 129 stoves, for polishing 129 tins, polishing 138 underwear, silver, for polishing 143 Flannels, ironing 230 moths, protecting from 264 sudsing 216 washing 216 Flatiron, alcohol, denatured 226 asbestos ; ; , 226 electric 226 patented 226 small, laundry, for 201 toy 226 velvet, for 172 Flatirons clean, keeping 226 cleaning 226 denatured alcohol, heated with Ill gas, heating, with 132 tempering 386 Flavorings, candy, for B42 shelf for 76 Flaxseed lemonade, invalids, for 671 poultices 660 Flea, house, the 314 exterminating 314 Fleas, dogs, on 315 domestic animals, on 315 extermination of 314 Flesh color paint ,.... 364 PAGE Flesh worms, nature of 439 Flexible glue 341 varnish 368 birdlime, in 368 Flies, banishing 321 destroying 321 disease caused by 321 meat, preserving, from 589 mosquito netting for 321 painting, avoiding In 364 preventives against 322 residuum oil for 321 screens for 321 Floor coverings 39 background, as 36 cleaning %63 dining room, for 73 kinds of 39 solid colored, preferable 34 use of 41 hard- wood, gasoline for 266 ideal 41 imitation of 40 kitchen 74 hard wood for 74 oil, coloring 274 oils, stain, tend to 256 Floors, bare, moths, for avoiding 306 bedrooms, of 61 cracks, filling 273 in 273 dining room, of 73 hard-wood 255 care of 257 finish for 255 Imitation of 41 wax for 255 kitchen, glue paint for 362 oil for 256,273 -stained, care of 275 polished, carpet beetles, avoiding ... 310 scrubbing, washing fluids for 205 smooth 255 soluble glass for 42 stained, cleaning 275 varnish for 275 stains for 274 summer care of 268 unpainted 276 cleaning 276 wax, restoration of 2B7 waxed, polish for 256 polishing 256 spots on 256 steel wool for 256 waxing 256 wood, cleaning 273-275 reflnishing 273 Florida water 482 recipe for 482 Flounces, unfashionable 34 Flour bags 77 uses of 77 cement 339 gluten in 337 lace, for dry-cleaning 173 mud stains, for 173 papier-machS, for cleaning 296 paste 338 making 338 oilcloth, for laying 272 plaster cracks, for repairing 281 preservation of 339 rugs, for laying 258 sugar, with 339 sacks 47 crazy quilts, for 65 dish towels, for 136 dishcloths, as 136 sash curtains, for 47 ticks, for ,., 64 INDEX 699 PAGE Flour sacks, 'washing 136 silver, protecting 142 woolens, for washing 217 Flower pot, filter, for 117 water, perfumes, for 476 Flue (see chimney) Flues 87 Fluid measure, apothecaries' 623 Fluids, washing 205 Fluting, toy flatlron tor 226 Fly, common house 321 paper, fleas, lor destroying 314 poisonous, to make 322 sticky, to make 323 Folding beds 67 Folds, bias, cutting 249 Fomentations, application of 660 Fondant B17 boiling B21 bonbon 523 cautions for making 521 chocolate 523 confectioner's 523 creaming 522 dipping 522 glucose, without 523 rolling 522 uncooked 524 Food chopper, cleaning 137 Invalids, for 665 rich, babies, bad for 675 stuffs, weight of 630 well-cooked 646 Foods, breakfast, shelves for ..„ 75 raw 646 Foot warmer 105 lantern 105 Footbath 445 Footstools 49 Force cups, sinks, for stopped-up 146 Forearm, bleeding of 654 broken 658 Forks, carving, care of 141 steel 141 care of 141 Form, bust 240 Formalin, smut, for preventing 329 spraying with 829 Fosterine, cast iron, for welding 386 Foxglove, poisoning from 650 Fractures, treatment of 668 Frames, gilt, mending 291 renovating 290 old gilt, renovating 291 picture, cleaning 289 quilting, homemade 66 wood, cleaning 291 Frangipani soap 460 Franklin, Benjamin, Franklin stove, inventor of 85 Freckles, nature of 439 removal of J62 Freezing, clothes, of 220 preventing 220 colored articles faded by 220 colors injured by 210 gas meter 99 service pipes 99 Ink, prevention of 432 pumps, of 113 prevention of 263 water pipes, of 113 point of 118 French berries, ink, for yellow 430 chalk, absorbent, as an 159 benzine stains, for 161 gloves, for cleaning 177 grease, removal of 159 rouge, for 472 scouring mixture, in 162 shoes, for squeaTcing 420 pAGm French chalk, toilet powders, In 471 cream 517, 624 glucose, with 525 kisses . ; 537 polish 378 coloring 3'79 finish o£ 380 furniture, for 378 graining 379 preparatioui of 379 varnish, leather, tor 423 leather, for waterproofing 423 Frescoes, ceilings, on. 38 glazing tor 281 painting 281 Fresh air cure 69 consumption, for 69 stains, milk for 157 Friday, sweeping day 250 Fright, fainting from 651 Fringe, mending 242 Front room 52 Frost, pipes, prevention of 263 Frozen meat, keeping 590 water pipes 114 thawing > 114 Fruit candies 517 canned, market, packing for 548 canning 553 creams 526 diet of 646 jar, glass, sprinkling, for 222 rubber rings, old, use for 660 jars, homemade 560 refrigerators, for 122 sterilizing 653 testing i. 552 Jellies 647 juice, blotters for 76 lath boxes for 609 lozenges 634 measuring 620 packing 609 preserving 554 money in 547 rules for 559 rolls 534 stains 173 citric acid for 157 colored goods, on 173 gloves, on 377 Javelle water for 160 linen, on 169 removal from 169 oxalic acid for 157 removal of, with 166 removal of 70 sweetmeats 633 tarts 534 vinegar 568 Fruits, candied 532 cold storage for 118 Frying pan, sal soda for 137 Fuel, coal as 81 coke as 82 economies 127 gas as '. 82 kinds of 81 Fuller's earth, absorbent, as an 159 alabaster, tor cleaning 436 books, for 69 carpets, for cleaning 270 china, for cleaning 145 complexion, for the 464 gloves, for cleaning 177 for dry-cleaning 178 grease, floors, removal from 277 spots, for 173 hearth, for cleaning 130 marble, oil stains, removal from . . 295 oil stains, for 173 700 INDEX FAQE Fuller's earth, Panama hats, for clean- ing 181 toilet powders, in 471 sand soaps, in 198 scouring mixture, in 162 white paint, for cleaning 277 windows, for polishing 285 Fumigation, rats, to kill 318 Fur cleaning 179-180 moths feed on 304 removal of 138 skins, tanning 416 Furnace, ashes, removal from 127 coal for 127 draught, indirect 83 Are, banking 127 care of 127 laying 125 shaking down 127, 251 waste of heat, preventing 85 Furnaces 82 cement for mending 348 beating system, as 82 underfeed system 83 Furnishing, necessary 35 Furnishings, bedrooms, for 61 harmony in 33 styles and fashions in 33 Furniture 34 antique 35 imitation of 35 bedroom 62 brass, cleaning 291 trimmed, rooms, for west 36 bruises, removal from 288 care of 287 cleaning 287, 382 color, restoration of 289 Craftsman and Mission styles 34 durable 33-34 holes in 378 to fill 378 leather, care of 418 mahogany, to color 378 paste for 382 packing 301 painting 360 paste for 382 polish 378 preparation of 381 polished 287 polishing 380 pores of, filling 380 restoring color of 289 scratches, removal of 288 scratching, preventing 257 selection of 34 sick room, of 664 simple 33-34 soap for 288 spider-legged 35 upholstered, cleaning 292 dusting 251 varnish, transparent, for 370 varnished, polishing 380 washing 287 waxing 380 white and gold 35 enameled, rooms, for west 36 willow, bleaching 289 wood, oils for 288 yellow oak, rooms, for north and east 36 Furs, cold storage for 308 protecting from moths 118 fiber, animal 163 luster, improvement of 180 moths, protection from 307 storage of 308 to clean 179, 309 Fusibility, metals, of 383 PAGE Fusibility, metals, property of 383 Fusible meUl, nature of 395-398 Gall, ink, for red 429 Gallic acid, cloth, for silvering 413 ink, in 426-427 Galls, apple, hides, for tanning 416 carbonate of iron, test for 115 ink, faded, restoring 432 leather, in waterproofing 423 tannin in 416 Galvanized iron, aluminum for 397 Gambia, tannin in 416 Garbage 145-146 burner, garbage, for 133 can, garbage, for 133 cans, galvanized iron for 146 disposal of 75, 145-146 newspaper for 133 Garden pests 326 Garlic vinegar 570 Garments, burning, to put out 89 flreproofing 92 insertion, sewing on 248 men's, dry-cleaning 173 moth-eaten, mending 242 packing, preparation for 309 storage of 309 unfinished, closet for 235 women's, dry-cleaning 175 woolen, grease spots, removal of ... 309 Gas 95 acetylene 95, 99 cost per hour 94-95 health, effect on 94-95 arc lamps '. 99 blowing, preventing, from 98 broiling with 132 burners 97 burning 96 check for 98 coal 95 avoiding 127 bituminous coal, made from 95 illumination, for 95 in 81 consumed, amount of 96 consumption of 96. frost line, below the 95 fuel 81-82 gasoline 95, 100 cost per hour 94-95 or incandescent, effect on health 94-95 Illumination, for 95 grates, chimney flue, under a 85 illuminating, annual cost of 94 incandescent, cost per hour 94-95 ironing with 132, jets, blowing of : 96 radiators, on 86 kindling with 12ff leaks 99 logs, chimney flue, under a 85 mains 95 meter, freezing of 99 reading 96 meters 95 open fiame, cost per hour 94-95 health, effect on 94-951 oven, temperature of 86 pressure of 95-98 range air mixers 131 blackening 131 burners 131 care of 131 cleaning ! . ! . 130 saucepan for 132 regulation of 99 service pipes, freezing of 99 sewing room, for 238 stove, gas consumed by 96 INDEX 701 PAGE Gas stoves 86 carbonic-acid gas from 85 cooking, for 86 heating, for 86 system, as 82 lighting 132 living rooms, in 85 troubles 98 vraste of 132 water heater, bathroom, for 87 heaters 87 kitchen boiler, attached to 87 Gasoline, ant nest, for destroying 320 ants, for exterminating 319 bathroom, for cleaning the 268 bedbugs, tor exterminating 313 burning, putting out 91 carpets, freshening faded 271 chemical soap, in 162 copper ware, for 137 curtains, for cleansing 214 fleas, tor destroying 314 gas 95, 100 illuminatioa (see gas) cheapest 100 production of 100 gloves, cleaning, with 177 goatskin rugs, for washing 270 grease, carpets, removal from 271 floors, removal from 277 hard-wood floor, for 266 men's clothes, tor cleaning 175 metal bedstead, tor 266 moths, repellent for 306 nature of 160 oil stains, marble, removal from 296 paint, removal of 278 stains, for 165 petroleum, product of 101 sewing machine, cleaning, with 236 silk, cleaning, with 170 white, for cleaning 172 stains, gypsum for 161 stove polish, in 129 stoves 86 smoke, avoiding 86 upholstered furniture, tor 292 use of ..160,170 velvet, for cleaning 172 windows, for cleaning 285 Gauges, mercury for 398 Gauze, antiseptic, medicine closet, in 662 Gears, bronze for 391 Gelatin 337 glue, photograph, for 341 pad, tor hectograph 431 Gems, care of 433 ether varnish for setting 371 Geranium leaves, lemon, sachet, for.. 477 linen, for preserving 232 oil of, test tor 475 perfume 479 German silver, imitation of 396 nature ot 396 plating, solutions for 405 test for 406 Germs, breeding places for 146 dust, in 252 fllth diseases, of 145 Gilding, amalgam, by 384, 409 ' china, removal from 410 size for 410 coloring 410 glass, removal from 410 size for 410 glue for 360 gold amalgam tor 409 leaf for 408 powder for 410 Grecian 410 leather ■. 411 Gilding Uve fish 411 oil, on wood 410 paper 412 picture frames 411 process of 409 silver, on 410 varnish tor 373 Gilt frames, mending 291 old, renovation ot 290, 291 metals, cleaning 294 ornaments, cleaning 290 paint, picture frames, for 290 picture frames, protection of 289 " Ginger bread," imitation ot carving 34 candy 534 lozenges 540 pastilles 532 pears, preserving 568 preserving 568 sugar, preparation of 542 tincture of, medicine case, in 648 Gin, silk, for cleaning 171 Gingham pocket, patterns for 237 quilts, pieces tor 65 Ginghams, washing, careful 209 Glacfi kid gloves 177 Glands, sebaceous, skin, in the 438 Glass, annealing 434 battles, ink for marking 428 broken, rat holes, tor filling 318 spirit varnish, for making 369 burning, moles, tor 440 cement for 343-344, 349-350 cut, packing 301 cutting 434 fruit jars, uses for 335 gliding for 410 removal from 410 globes, silvering 414 graduate, toilet preparations, for . . . 461 gum-arabic cement tor 340 isinglass tor 34? jars, shelves for 75 mending 360 metal, attaching, to 347 mouse holes, for 316 paper, furniture, for smoothing 380 pictures, transferring, to 57 polishing 29S plaster-of-Paris cement tor 347 prepared, copper, for whitening 390 sandpaper, tor making 337 shellac cement tor 343 silvering 413 size for gilding on 410 soluble, fires, prevention of 93 tor floors 42 in paints 362 sand soaps, in 19S stained, imitation ot 434 stoppers 292 washing 133 window, restoration of 286 varnish for 372 Glassware, care of 139 cement for 347 cleaning 140 dishcloths for 136 fine, cut glass 140 peach-tree gum for mending 350 polishing 141 washing 139 wiping 141 Glauber's salts, fur skins, tor tan- ning 416 hard soap, for 192 marine soap, tor 450 poison antidote for 660 Glazing frescoes 281 Globes, cleaning 149 s, silvering 414 702 INDEX PAGE Gloss finish, woolen goods, restora- tion of 244 oil, barrel paint, tor 362 removal of 176 removing, from woolen 176 Glove cleaners 178 Gloves, benzine for 177 black, dye for 429 care of 177 cleaning 177 dry-cleaning 178 gasoline for 177 glace kid 177 ink stains, removal of 179 kid, cleaning 179 milk for 178 polishing 179 renovation of 178 mending 243 stains, removal from 178 suede, ink, black, for 178 thread for mending 243 turpentine for 177 wash-leather, cleaning 178 coloring ,.. 178 Glucose, fondant without 523 French cream with 625 Glue 337 bindings, restoration of 71 black lace, for doing up 213 brick wash. In 280 calcimine. In 353 cracks, lor filling 273 fish 337 flexible 341 floors, for staining 274 gilding, for 350 gilt frames, tor mending 291 liquid 341 marine 346 nature of 337 paint, kitchen floors, for 362 parchment 350 photograph 341 portable 341, 342 sheet, crape lace, cleaning 176 shoes, house, for mending 420 size, fireproof paint, tor 361 furniture, boles, in, for 378 Ink, for show-card 430 knots, for killing 365 paper hanging, tor 339 plaster ot Paris, with 435 wall, tor whitewashed 283 wood, preparation ot, for polishing 379 Spalding's liquid 342 starch, with 225 use of 338 washing powders, in 207 water-color paint, tor 353 waterproof 341 whitewash, in 279-280 Gluepot, workroom, in the 335 Glues, compound 348 Gluten 337 flour. In 337 Glycerin, blacking, in 424 bookbindings, restoration of 71 chemical soap, in 162 coffee stains, removal ot 168-169 cold cream, tor 470 collodion cement, in 350 complexion, for the 464 freckles, for 462 glue, flexible, tor 341 hands, tor the 453-454 honey balsam, in 464 ink, for hectograph 431 tor rubber-stamp 431 in copying 428 natural fats, in all 187 PAGE Glycerin, nature of 464 oil, fixed animal 376 poison, antidote tor 650 scenting 479 soap, in 187 making, by-product ot 192 soluble glass paints, in 362 stove polish, in 128 windows, tor 285 Goatskin rugs, washing 270 Goatskins, tanning 417 Gold, alloy of 408-409 amalgam 409 gold plating, for 405 artificial 409 bronze for 391 brass color for 401 bronze 402 cheap 402 coin, English 384,642 chain, cleaning a 433 United States 641 color, paint, mixing 364 coloring 434 designing in 412 designs in 412 Ink, preparation for 430 jewelry, to color 434 lace, cleaning 173 lacquer, metal, tor 407 tin, tor 407 leaf, fineness of 408 fish, live, tor gilding 411 gold bronze, tor 402 handling 410 knots, for killing 365 metals, tor gilding 409 nature ot 408 nature ot 407 paint, molding, for regildlng 412 plating, electricity, without 405 solution 404 powder, gilding, tor 410 making 409 sealing wax 375 size, molding, in regUding 412 wood, for gilding on 410 solder 394-409 value of 408 wire, imitation, making 400 Gongs, Chinese, bronze tor 391 Good teeth 502 Goods, light, sponging 246 white, citric acid tor 157 cleaning, dry 167 faded, to bleach 185 fading, prevention ot 184 Goose feathers 6 J wings, fire box, brushing out 124 Gooseberries, acid principle of 157 preserving 55^ Gooseberry catsup 685 vinegair 559 Gourds, darning ball, as 2441 Gowns, starching 225 summer, packing 302 Grafting wax 344 Graham, William A., fire extinguish- er, inventor ot 89 Grain, measuring 620 smut in 329 Grains, lead in 392 Granite sugar, coloring 542 Grape catsup 586 vinegar 566 water, invalids, for 668 Grapes, green, preserving 558 ripe, chapped lips, tor 474 Graphite, lubricator, as a 377 Grass clippings, pillows, for fancy 4S cloth, screens, tor 4S INDEX 703 PAGE Grass stains 163, 167 removal of 167 tartaric acid tor 157 toweling, dishclotlis, as 136 Grate, asbestos blower tor 88 blower for 88 fire, kindling, in 124 open, Franklin stove 85 Grater, cleaning 138 Grates, asphaltum varnisli for 372 blackening 297 cleaning , 130, 297 open 86 heating system, as 82 Gratings, painting, specification for... 358 Gravity, specific 641 metals, properties of 383 water supply for 112 Gray bair, prevention of 494 paint 364 steel, staining 387 Grease, absorbents for 159 axle 378 blotters for 76 books, removal from 69 carpets, removal from 271 floors, removal from 276 fur, on 180 ironware, removal from 137 kettle for 137 leather, removal from 418 machine 167 sal soda for removing 167 preservation of 189 purification of 189 removal of 159-271 silk, removal from 170 spots 167, 173 alum, for removing 167 colored goods, on 173 moths prefer 305 washing fluid for 205 stains, gasolene, to clean, with 160 turpentine, to remove 169 wall paper, removal from 283 wounds, removal from 648 Grebe feathers and skins, cleaning 180 washing 180 Grecian gilding 410 Green arsenoid, spraying with 330 baize, silver, protecting 142 beans, storing 607 candy, coloring 641 corn, pickled 579 flgs, preserving 558 fixing the color 211 grapes, preserving 558 hall, for the 36 ink «0 iodine, ink, for hectograph 431 leather, dyeing 417 light, light, absorbs 36 rooms, for west 36 thief of 36 living room, for 36 paint, cheap 363 Paris green in 363 peas, storing 607 preserving 608 sealing wax 375 varnish, verdigris for making 371 Greens, fixing 210 rooms, toning down, for south 36 Grenades, hand-fire extinguisher 91 Grill, living rooms, for 61 room for high 48 for narrow *| Grindstone, workroom in the 335 Groceries, dry, shelves for 75 list of ^9 ordering "^ PAOB Groceries, storeroom tor 79 Ground pumice, copper ware, tor 137 Gudgeons, Babbit metal for 395 Guitars, cleaner for 289 Gum amber, black asphalt varnish, in 368 ammoniac, compound cement, in.... 349 arable 366 almond paste, in 469 preparations, in 466 blacking, paste, for 424 brass, for cleaning 30O carpets, for faded 271 cement 340 in isinglass 342 curtains, for starching 231 fabrics, delicate, washing 211 French polish, in 379 gold powder, for 409 green, for coloring bronze 401 harness, in waterproofing 425 ink, in 427 for indelible 429 metal 430 show card 430 laces, in cleaning 213 in starching 230i leather, for black 417 varnish, in 372 marble, tor cleaning 294 men's clothes, for renovating 175 nature of 366 paste 339 gum acacia in 339 plaster of Parts with 435 safety matches, for 43S silk, for stiffening 229, 245 starch, instead of 225 with 224 woolen goods, renovating 174 benzoin, Circassian cream, for 473 French polish, for 379-380 rouge, for 473 sachet, for 477 camphor, silver, protecting 142 copal, alcohol, cutting, with 381 French polish, for 379 furniture, for polishing 381 hides, for tanning 416 mastic, leather, in gilding 411 resin cement, for 343 mesquite, nature of 366 peach-tree 350 sandarac, French polish, for 379 leather, for waterproofing 423. Senegal 36S shellac, blackened walls, for 284 tragacanth, mucilage, for 340 nature of 367 rouge, for 472 varnish for window glass 372 water-color paint, in 353 Gums 366 nature of 366 stains, solutions for 156 Gun barrels, bronzing 402 metal, bronze for 391 vents, platinum for 399 Gutta-percha 338 asphalt varnish, in 368 cleaning 296 clotheslines 219 electrotyplng, in 404 map varnish, in 372 nature of 338 rubber cement, for 346 Gutters, cellars, for 262 painting, specifications for 358 Gypsum, absorbent, as an 159 cement 347 gasoline stains, for 161 glue size, tor 339 704 INDEX PAGE Gypsum, nature of 435 sealing wax. In 374 Hair, anatomy of the 438 brush, cleaning 485 brushes, care of 484 care of the 483 curled, mattresses 62 pillows 62 curling 495 dry 489 -cleaning 484 dye, black 494 brown 494 red 494 walnut 494 yellow 494 dyes 493 falling out of 488 gray, prevention of 494 harsh 489 loosening of the 488 nature of the 483 oil, coloring 491 oils, compounding 491 perfumes for 492 use of 491 powders 496 compounding 496 shampoo, dry 487 superfluous 495 tonics 488 compounding 490 washes 487 compounding 488 Hairdressing 483 Hall, green for the 36 Halls, leather, imitation, for 37 outer, burlap for 38 Ham, smoked, storing 596 Hammock beds, porch, on, sleeping . . 61 Hamper, bathroom, for the 443 clothes 154 soiled clothes, tor 154 Hams, mutton, pickling 593 pork, curing 594 smoking 595 Hand, bleeding of 654 fire extinguisher, fires, for putting out 91 fractured 658 Handkerchief bags 237 Handkerchiefs, doing up 228 flatiron for 226 initials, working, on 248 old, bandages, for 663 salt for 208 scarfs, as bureau 67 washing 208, 215 Handles, kettle lids, of 139 knife, fastening 141 Hands, alkalies chap 205 bran for the 454 burning of 452 care of 452 chapped 454 camphor for 465 remedies for 455 clean, to keep 128 glycerin for the 454 honey for the 454-455 linseed oil for 454 lotion for 261 moist 452 powder for the 455 redness of 462 softening the 453 stains, removal from 452 warm, to keep 219 Hanging, paper 281 Hangnails, prevention of 465 PAGB Hard baked sirup 520 (or anthracite) coal, fuel, as 81 potash soap, making 193 soap 192 boiling 191 caustic soda, from 195 Improving 192 sal soda, with 195 soft, making 191 softening 191 yellow, soft soap, from 194 wafer, softening 204 Hardware, receptacles for 335 varnish for 372 Hard- wood floors, care of 257 flnlsh for 255 floors, over old 41 imitation of 41-42 preferable 34 wax for 255 Harness, care of 418 cement for 346 cleaning 425 Harvest, commercial ice 118 domestic ice 119 Hats, felt, lamp wicks, for 149 packing 302 Panama, cleaning 181 straw, cleaning 180 sizing 181 Hay, china, for packing 300 linens, colored, fixing 211 mattresses 62 measurement of 626 paint odor, for destroying 279 pillows, for fancy 49 Head, injured, when 647 Headaches, ventilation, poor, caused by 59 Health hints 645 humidity good for 54 light, artificial, effect of 95 Healthtulness, denatured alcohol, of . Ill Hearth, blackening a 130 cleaning 128-130 making a 296 open, Franklin stove 86 Heat, combustion, for 123 irons, to test heat of 227 prostration from 652 sleep, required during 58 stove, economy of 86 supplementary, fireplaces, open 86 waste of, preventing 85 Heaters, gas, to heat water 87 Heating 81, 111 coal stoves for 86 denatured alcohol Ill methods of 82 system, hot- water 83 and hot-air 85 steam 83 vacuum steam system 84 systems 81-82 coal stove 82 fireplaces 82 furnaces 82 gas stoves 82 hot-air 82-84 hot-water 82-83 oil stoves 82 open grates 82 steam 82-83 Hectograph ink 431 pad, making a 431 Heliotrope, tinctures for 479 Hellebore, cockroaches, for destroying 312 poisoning from 650 worms, berry, for 331 Hemlock bark, carpets, in dyeing 43 bedding, in storing 26S INDEX 705 PAOB Hemlock, piUot^s, for fancy 49 poisoning from 6B0 tannin In 416 Hemming table linen 232 Hemorrhage, treatment of 666 Hemstitching 24S sewing machine, on 248 Herbs, drying 609 poisoning from 650 storing 604 Hides, glue from 337 tanning 416 High polish preferable 34 room, effect of, improving 48 Hinged table 134 Hinges, varnish for 369 Hints, accident. In time of 647 clothes 240 health 645 house cleaning 265 ironing 229 making over 246-247 washing 208 Historians, bathing, on 440 Hoarhound candy 540 Holders, flreproofing 92 iron 227 stove 129 Holes, furniture, flUlng, in 378 mouse, stopping 316 rat, stopping 316 "Hollands" linens 182 Home remedies proven 671 Hone, machine needles, for sharpening 238 Honey, almond paste, for 469 artificial, making 645 chapped lips, for 473 clarification of 544 cleansing mixture, in 161 complexion, tor the 464 extraction of 544 gold bronze, for 402 powder, for 409 hands, for the 463-454-465 ink, for metal 430 lavender water, tor 481 silks, tor washing 215 soap 449 Honeycomb, preservation In 544 Hoofs, glue from 337 Hooks and eyes, shoe box for 234 china closet. In 73 pantry shelves, screw, on 76 picture, use of 56 Hops, pillows, tor fancy 49 Horns, glue from 337 Horse-radish, preserving 586 root, freckles, for 462 skin, tor the 463 vinegar 569 Hose, cotton, old, dusters, as 254 garden, blankets, tor rinsing 218 rubber, men's clothes, cleaning — 173 silk, dusters, as 254 Hot air bath 445 heating system, as 82-84 hot water combined with 85 misnomer, a 84 pipes, waste of heat, preventing .. 85 preventing dryness of 64 regulating |J water heating system 82-83 hot air, combined with 85 House cleaning, fall 260 hints 265 preparations for 261 rules tor 261 spring 260 turnisblng 33 importance of 33 Influence of 33 PAQB House, Ice, construction of an 120 painting, rules for 364 Household remedies 326 weights and measures 628 Houseleeks, flies, preventives against. 322 Housewife, old-fashioned 239 Hungary water, preparation of 481 Husks, mattresses, for 62 Hydrocarbons, coal, in 81 Hydrochloric acid, blacking, liquid, tor 424 bleaching agent, a powerful 169 brass, bronzing for 402 ink, for blue 430 paste blacking, tor 423 poisoning from 651 test for 668 tin, tor dissolving 393 Hydrocyanic-acid gas, bedbugs, tor ex- terminating 313 carpet beetles, tor destroying 311 cockroaches, for destroying 311 fleas, for destroying 314 moths, for destroying 307 white ants, for destroying 321 Hydrogen gas, how made 411 • ivory, for gilding ,411 illuminating gas, in 95 kerosene, In 103 peroxide of 510 sunburn, tor 465 Hyposulphite of soda, slivering, for .. 413 Hysteria, convulsions from 661 Ice US antiseptic US bags 121 box, making an 121 boxes, drainage of 119 breaking 122 candles, preventing, from dripping . 109 chest, making 121 chocolate. Invalids, for 671 compress, making 662 cream, invalid's 669 domestic harvest 119 harvesting commercial 118 house, building 120 construction of 120 drainage of 119 filling 120 making an 120 protection of 120 meats, for preserving 118 nature of 118 preservation of 119-122 rails, stored in pen of 121 sick room, keeping, in 661 uses of 118 vegetables, for preserving 118 water cooling without 115 prostration from 652 Ices, candy, for 542 Icing, application of 643 boiled 643 cake, for 642 ornamentation of 643 uncooked 642 Illuminating oil, testing 101 Illumination, acetylene gas 99-100 artificial 94 systems of 94 Illusion, lace curtains, tor mending... 46 Incense 478 compounding 476 pastilles, compounding 476 Inch boards, measuring 618 subdivisions of the 613 Indelible ink, making 165-429 removing 166 India Ink, making 428 shellac varnish. In 369 •706 INDEX PAGE India Inli, test for 429 plokle 575 rubber, cement, for 345 cloth, waterproofing 93 flexible varnisti, in 368 harness, for waterproofing 425 leatlier, for waterproofing 423 marine glue, for 346 mixtures of 422 nature of 338 waterproof varnish, in 368 Indian pudding, ash pan, cooking, in 127 Indigestion, sleeplessness, cause of 152 Indigo, blacking, for 424 carmine, ink, for blue 430 French polish, for coloring 379 harness, for 425 ink, in 427 for indelible :.... 429 for printing 432 In marking 428 toilet preparations, for 461 Indoors, painting woodwork 355 Industrial alcohol 109 Infant's bed 67 hot- weather care of 672 teeth 503 Influence, educational, passing of 66 Ingrain carpet 39 carpets, wearing qualities of 43 paper, dado, for 38 fading of 56 hanging 282 living rooms, for 37 mats, for picture 67 walls, for 36 Ingrowing nails : 456 Initials, working 248 Injury, first-aid 648 Ink, absorbents for 169 black, blacking, tor 424 kid, for 420 making 426 stencil 429 blue 430 bronze 430 care of 432 chrome-logwood, composition of 165 making 427 colored writing 429 copying, making 428 removal of 166 eraser 70 tartaric acid as 70 faded, restoring 432 floors, removal from 277 freezing, to keep, from 432 gold 430 green 430 hectograph 431 indelible 165, 429 linens, removing from 166 nature of 429 removing 166 India 428 black goods, white spots on 176 nature of 428 Invisible 430 iron-gall, stains, citric acid for 157 removal of 166 leather, removal from 418 linen, removal of, from 168 lithographic 432 luminous 431 marking, linen, removal from 166-168 making 428 silver nitrate used in 412 metal label 431 mold, prevention of 432 nature of 426 nitrate of silver potassium, removal of 166 PAGB Ink, oiliness, removal from 432 printer's 432 dryers for 432 removing 167 printing 432 red, making 429 rubber-stamp 431 show-card 430 silver 430 ■ removal from 144 spots, floors, removal from 277 oxalic acid, removal of, with 156 tartaric acid for 157 testing 165 stains 70, 173 bleaching powder for 160 books, on 70 carpets, removal from 271 colored goods, on 167-173 furniture, removal from 288 gloves, on 177, 179 removal from 179 linen, on 166 linens, removing, from 166-167 removing 432 treatment of , 165 stylographic 165 sympathetic 430 thickening, prevention of 432 violet 430 writing 426 yellow 430 Inks, chrome-logwood 427 colored 429 copying 428 marking 428 nutgall 165 show-card 430 Inlaid work, brass, cleaning 291 Insect bites, remedy for 648 treatment of 655 pests, books, of 69 powder, fleas, on dogs, for 316 Persian 69 fleas, for destroying 314 mosquitoes, for repelling 326 Insects, painting, avoiding, in 354 soap, for repelling 451 Insertion, cutting 248 garments, sewing on 248 Instruments, cement for 344 musical, varnish for 374 steel, rust, preservation from 409 Interior work, paints for 353 Intestine cases, sausages, for 596 Invalid, diet of 665 Inventory, house cleaning, for 260 of furniture, library desk. In the .. 69 Iodine 167 acid stains, removal of 172 aluminum corroded by 397 chloroform dissolved by 159 linen, removal of 167 nitric acid stains on linen, removal of 167 poisoning from 650 silver, removal from 144 soap 451 stains, ammonia for 158 linen, removal from 169 prevention of 165 removal of 165 turpentine, dissolved by 159 Iodoform, poisoning from 650 Ipecac, vomiting, for 649 Iron 388 bath tub, painting an 442 beds 61-62 wooden, substituted for 62 bronze paint tor 402 casehardening 335 INDEX 707 PAGE I [ron, cast, tempering 386 color, bronze 402 compounds of 385 copper color for 389 solution for 406 cyanides of 385 electricity, plating, without 406 electroplating silver on 406 electrotypes, for 389 fences, varnish for 369 filings, blue paint, in .-. 363 fireproof paint, for 361 ironware cements, for 348 leaks, for stopping 264 steel joints, for soldering 386 -gall ink, carpets, removal from 271 galvanized, carbage cans, tor 146 hot, velvet, restoring 245 kettles, cleaning 137 leather, fastening, to ; 346 for black •. 417 lettering on 409 mold, oxalic acid, removal of, with. . 166 removal of 164 nature of 384 pig, nature of 385 pipes, water supply for 112 polished, keeping 388 polishing 288, 38&-389 posts, zinc for setting 389 regalvanizing 400 rust 164 citric acid for 157 linen, removal from 168 marble, removal from 294 nature of 297 -proof paint tor 388 protecting from 388 removing 167 treatment of 164 shovels, varnish for 369 sinks, care of 146 softening 385 solder 386, 394 stains 70 books, on •••• _70 sulphate of, black, reviving faded... 176 blue paint, in 363 feathers, renovating 180 fioors, for staining 274 jewelry, tor polishing 433 tannate of, ink, in 426 inks, nutgall, in 165 removal of 166 temper, drawing 385 tempering ■ • - 385 tincture of, brass, black dipping tor 401 tinning 393, 406 welding 386 work, asphaltum varnish for 372 wrought 385 Ironing ^J? board, arrangement of ^^ covers for 227, 232 hanging up 227 day ,,,..,,.......••••••••■■•••••••••■•• ^"^ gas, with"." 132 hints J^J machine 226 utensils, care of 225 Irons, care of 226 fiuting, ruffles, for ^2b heating 227 holders for fff rust, prevention of jj» sewing room, in the 236 testing heat of 227 Ironware cements 347 clean, keeping 137 dust, removal of ■• 137 mending 344, 386 PAGE Ironware, rust, removal from 137 tempered 129 washing 133 Ironwork, asphalt varnish, black, for 368 painting, specifications tor 358 varnish tor 369 Isinglass 337 adheslves 342 cement, in 349 cloth, waterproofing 93 gelatin, composed of 337 leather furniture, tor 418 melting 337 nature of 337, 342 portable glue, in 342 rouge, for 473 size 374 molding, in regllding 412 starch, with 225 testing 338 Itch, barber's 499 Ivory black, blacking, liquid for 424 bronze paint, in 402 French polish, for coloring 379 harness, for blacking 425 leather furniture, tor 418 jet for 426 nature of 423 paint, in 364 paste blacking, for 423 patent leather, for 424 sealing wax, for 375 shoes, in waterproofing 422 Chinese cement for 343 cleaning 292 etching on 435 gilding 411 -handled knives 141 bleaching 142 care of 141 hardening : 434 mucilage tor 340 polishing 434 silvering 414 softening 434 veneers, mucilage tor 340 Japan dryer, floors, for 274 varnish, bath tub, for painting .... 442 Japanese cement 339 making 339 Japanned ware, cleaning 139 white marks, removal from ^ . . 139 Jar, rose 478 Jardini&re, tahoret, for 63 Jars, covering tor 660 fruit, testing 652 glass fruit, uses for 335 Jasmine, essence of, sachet, tor 477 tinctures, for 479 Javelle water, acid stains, on linen, removal of 16T kid gloves, for 178-179 making and use of 160 tannin stains, removal of 167 Jaw, fracture of 659 Jellies, fruit 54T Jelly, calf's-foot, gelatin, composed of 337 cream bonbons 527 rolls 534 soap 208 Jet black varnish, leather, for 434 cleaning 434 leather, tor 425 Jets, cellars, for 262 Jewelers, Armenian cement tor 342 cement tor 342 rouge, jewelry, cleaning 144 sawdust, glassware, for polishing. . . 140 Jewelry, brazing 401 brightening 434 708 INDEX PAGE Jewelry, bronze for 391 care of 433 Chinese cement for 343 cleaning 144, 433 fineness of 408 . gold, alloy of, for 409 polishing 433 silver 412 cleaning 413 storing 433 varnish for repairing 371 Juniper tar soap 451 Junket, invalids, tor 668 Kalydor, complexion, for the 464 Karat, weight of 407 Kerosene 100 annual cost of 94 ant nests, for destroying 320 bathroom, for cleaning the 268 bedbugs, for exterminating 313 burning, putting out 91 test 102 can for ; 148 carpets, for 255 removal from 271 when sweeping 269 clocks, for cleaning 293 cod-liver oil, removal of 167 copper ware, for polishing 137 curtains, for washing 214 emulsion, insects, for destroying. 328-330 spraying, for 328 fire, for extinguishing 91 fires, for lighting 105 fiash, 110° 102 test 102 files, preventive against 322 fioors, for scouring 276 stained, for cleaning 275 fuel, as 81 furniture, for cleaning 287 gas range, for cleaning 131 gilt picture frames, for cleaning .... 289 harness, for cleaning 425 Illumination, for 100 improvement of 105 irons, for 227 kindling, as 126 lamps 100 laundry, in the 204 lice, destruction of, by spraying with 327 lighter, fire 105 marble, for cleaning 294 metal bedstead, for washing 266 mosquitoes, for destroying 324 mud stains, removal of 167 paint, coarse, for cleaning 278 painted sink, for 146 (petroleum, see) product of 101 pianos, for 289 purifying 102 rugs, brightening colors of 258 scratches, from furniture, removal of 288 screws, for loosening 336 sewing machine, for cleaning 236 shoes, for 421 steel fittings, for cleaning 128 knives and forks, for cleaning 141 stoves, rust, preventing 297 table oilcloths, for 268 teakettle, for avoiding lime in 138 test of 101 tins, for scouring 138 washing fluids, for 206 for 208 whetstones, for 378 white goods, for bleaching 1S6 zinc, for cleaning 299 Kettle, grease, for 133 PAGB Kettle, grease, for preserving 189 lids, handles of 139 set, soap making, in 187 Kettles, copper, brazing 400 cleaning 137 fur on 138 greasy, washing fluid for 205 hot, shelf for 76 sandpaper for 137 tempering 386 Key, skeleton 286 Keys, fitUng 287 piano, alcohol for 289 cleaning 289 Kid, black, color of, restoring 420 olive oil for 178 boots, care of 420 gloves, black silk, for 171 cleaning 179 milk. for 178 old, ink for 429 polishing 179 renovating 178 shoes, house, for mending 420 white, cleaning 420 Kidderminster carpet 39 Kidney disease, convulsions from 651 Kindling 123 fires without smoke 88 gas as 126 kerosene as 126 paper as 125 pine cones as 126 wood as 125 Kindlings 125 making 126 Kinks, clotheslines, to avoid, in 220 Kisses, candy 517-537 Kitchen 73 blotters in 76 boiler, gas-water heaters attached to 87 cabinet 79 color for 74 conveniences for 73 cupboard in 133 dresses 247 floor 74 floors, covering for 42 glue paint for 362 hinged table for 134 linoleum for 40 lounge 7T homemade 77 rack, utensils for 75 range, care of 128 shelf in 133 sinks 74 slate 77 stool for 134 table 75 homemade 75 walls 74 wares, care of 137 Kitchens, paper for, waterproof oil- cloth 37 Knife blades, rust, protecting, from.. 388 handles, fastening 141 ivory, bleaching 142 Knit goods, drying 221 Knitted shawls, washing 217 Knives and forks, steel, washing 141 carving, care of 141 Ivory-handled 141 steel 141 care of 141 scouring 141 table 299 washing 141 Knot killing 355 quilting, tying 66 Knots, killing INDEX ^09 PAGE Knots, painting 354 Knotting 354 Koumiss, invalids, for 667-671 Label, metal, ink for 431 - mucilage 340 Labeling ink, acid-proof 369 metal, shellac cement for 343 Labels 78 casein cement for 345 Laborers, soap for 195 Lac 365-366 paint, cotton, on 42 resin, nature of 366 varnish, nature of 365 varnishes 368-369 shellac in 368 Lace 211 Battenburg 212 black, ironing 213 sponging 213 washing 213 boiling 212 box for 235 crape, cleaning 176 curtains 211 airing 213 bedspreads, for 63 launder, when to ....'. 213 mending 46 doing up 230 drying 212, 230 dry-cleaning 173 edging, laundry, preparation of, for 212 flatiron for 226 gold, cleaning 173 hanging out 220 ironing 228, 230 mending 242 point 212 rinsing 212 silver, cleaning 173 soaking 212 soap for 198 jelly for 198, 212 starching 230 storing 310 sudsing 212 tinting 230 veil, white, washing 213 waists, laundry, to prepare, for 211 wash, preparation for the 212 washing 211 white, washing 211 whitening 185 wrinkles, removal of, from 230 Lacquer, gold 407 metals, for 407 transparent 407 Lacquers 370 denatured alcohol, used in 110 Lactic acid, uses of 157 using 157 Lamp, alcohol, tea table, for 53 workroom, in the 335 carbon 104 carrying, when 103 chimneys 102 breaking, prevention of 149 care of 149 cleaning 148 draught of 102 fit of 102 object of 102 polishing 148 selection of 103 shape of 102 hot, don't open 102 moving -102 kerosene, cost per hour 94-95 health, effect of, on 94-95 lampblack M^ PAQE Lamp, night, sick room, for the 664 smoking, avoiding 102 soot 104 student, level, keeping 105 principle of 101 trimming 102 wicks, making 149 towels, for 136 Lampblack, black paint, in 364 blackboards, for 361 chemical soap, in 162 harness, for 418 ink. In 426 for printing 432 in marking 428 Indelible, in 165 India, for 429 lamps, in 104 metals, rust, protecting, from 298 nature of 423 sealing wax, for 375 varnish, glossy black, gives 370 waterproofing and blacking 94 Lamps, bronze, care of 149 care of 102, 147, 148, 149 chemistry of 103 chimney, wrong 102 cleaning 148 explosion of, preventing 103 filling 102-lOS fire, on 105 fiame, putting out 103 gas arc 99 kerosene 100 lacquer, care of 149 mending 149 metal, care of 149 night, breathing, effect on 104 oil, principle of 101 selection of 101 radiators on 86 smoking, prevention of 104-149 student 104 unclean 102 wick, poor 102 Land measure, comparative 617 rules for 615 U. S. Government 616 waste, estimate of 616 Lantern, foot warmer, as 105 Lanterns, Chinese 105 sand in 105 Lard, adulteration of 600 bleaching 600 candles from 107 cocoanut, marine soap, in 450 cold cream, for 470 doors, for creaking 286 finger nails, for 455 under the 128 gas range, for 131 grass stains, linen, removal from... 167 harness, for 425 oil, fly paper, for 323 lubricator, as a 377 shoes, for 421 palls, uses of 78 rectified, nails, for toughening 456 rouge, for 472 rust on irons, prevention of 226 sealing wax, for soft 376 shoes, for squeaking 420 soap, for 188 soft soap, for 191 starch with 224 storing 600 tar, removal of 164,173 from silk 171 tinware, new, protection of 138 wash boilers, cleaning 138 Lath boxes, vegetables, for 609 710 INDEX PAGE Lathes, workroom. In the 335 Lathing, cost of 614 Laudanum, poisoning from 650 poisonous fly paper, for 322 Laundry bag, 'bathroom, for the 443 bags, making 154 closet, the 165 curtains, preparation for 214 linoleum for 40 list, library desk, in the 69 rain water for 116 rinsiiig 202 soft water for 203 sorting 154 stains, removal from 155 the 200 utensils 200 for 200 water for 203 supply ^ 203 Laurel leaves, toilet water, for 480 Lavender, bedding, in storing 268 bookbinder's varnish, in 373 flies, preventive against 322 flour paste, in 339 flowers, sachet, for 477 toilet water, for 480 linen, for preserving 232 mold, preventing 69 moths, repellent for 306 mucilage, for preserving 341 oil of, gold lacquer, for 407 ink, in marking 428 perfume, for 476 water 481 almond cream, in 467 preparation of 481 Lawn, origin of word 182 Lawns, doing up 224 gum arable, starching, with 225 salt tor 208 soap, should not be rubbed with 208 starching 225 washing, careful 208-209 Lead, acetate of, cloth, waterproofing 93 ink, for invisible 431 nature of 392 paint, dryer for 353 waterproofing and blacking 94 adhesives 346 black, ironware cement, for 348 color paint 364 glass globes, in silvering 414 grains, in 392 nature of 391 pipes, protection of 264 water supply for 112 sheet, damp walls, for 284 preparation of 392 solder for 394 sugar of, awnings, waterproofing.,.. 94 canvas tents, waterproofing 94 cloth, waterproofing 93 poisoning from 650 sulphide of, lead pipes, for protect- ing 264 test for 405 tree 392 white, awnings, waterproofing 94 canvas tents, waterproofing 94 cement, in 348 testing 392 Leaders, cellars, for 262 cement for 346 tar varnish for 372 Leaks, cement for filling 347 chimneys, stopping In 88 gas 99 stopping 264 yellow soap for 199 Leather, black balls for 426 PAGE Leather, black, grain side, for 417 varnish for 425 blacking for 423 bronze for 403 care of 417 cement for 345, 349 cleaning 156 coloring 417 dyeing 417 furniture, care of 418 gilding 411 size, for 411 glue for 341-342 grain side black for 417 grease, removal from 418 imitations of, walls for 36 ink, removal from 418 iron, fastening to 346 holders 22 jet for 425 liming 415 metal, fastening to 350 mildew, removal from 418 nature of 415 patent, care of 424 polish for 425 restoring softness of 41S Russian, moths, repellent for 30e scraps, draperies, for 48 screens, for 49 softness, restoring 418; steel, fastening to 346 stove holders, for 129 sweating 415 tanning 415 varnish for 372 jet black for 425 waterproofing 421 Leaves, black currant, sachet, for .... 477 table, storing 73 Legs, bleeding of 654 Lemon caramels 537 cream drops 53^ essence of, silk, removal of paint from 171 ice, invalids, for 669 ink stains on linen, removal of 167 juice, acid principle of 157 alabaster, for cleaning 436 colored goods, on 157i colors, for fixing 210 complexion, for the 464 freckles, for 462 hands, for moist 452 ink, removal of 166 iron rust, for 164 marble, removal from 295 ivory knife handles, bleaching 142 for cleaning 292 mildew, removal of 164 nails, for whitening the 456 poison, antidote for 650 prints, for cleaning 291 rouge, for 473 scouring mixture, in 162 skin, for the 464 stains, hands, removal from 45S straw hats, for cleaning 18C tea and coffee stains, for 164 water, for making palatable IIE match stains, removal of 27S oil of, Florida water, for 482 •perfume, for 47f sachet, for 471 peel, dried, sachet, for iTi preserving 55i toilet water, for 48( salts of, application of 15f cream of tartar in 15! nature of I5i salts of sorrel in 15! INDEX 711 PAGE Lemon sugar, preparation ot 542 vases, cleaning 140 wliey, invalids, for 670 Lemonade, invalids, tor 670 Irish-moss 669 Lemons, pickled 679 Length, measures of 643 Lettering, bronze, with 403 Library, the 68 educational influence of 6S magazine covers for 67 paste, making 339 pictures for 55 use of the 68 Lice, chickens, on 327 Licorice lozenges 540 Light and color 36 artificial, health, effect on ,. 95 -colored worsteds, cleaning 177 reflecting into cistern 106 well 106 regulating 45 vest-pocket 105 Lighting 81, 110 candles , 109 denatured alcohol 110 fires, kerosene for 105 systems, cost of 94 Lightning accidents 653 Lima beans, storing 607 Limb, wounded , 647 Lime, arsenite of, London purple, in. 330 cement, for 340 chloride of, bleaching agent 181 cockroaches, for exterminating . . . 311 ink, linen, removal from 166 mildew, removal ot 164 rat holes, for 316 sheeting, tor bleaching 183 spraying with 330 soap, in 451 damp walls, for drying 284 dampness, removal of 263 green paint, in 363 hard water, softening 115 ivory, bleaching 142 for cleaning 292 paint, for 363 use ot 360 refrigerators, for 122 slacked, floors, for scouring 275 smelling salts, for 480 stearin, making 108 steel, for bluing 387 sulphur-salt, San Jos6 scale, for ... 327 test for 115 unslacked, metals, rust, protecting from 298 wash, San Jos6 scale, against 331 water, tor clarifying 116 carbonic-acid gas, test for 69 earthenware, cleaning 138 feathers, tor purifying 267 freckle lotion, in 463 poison, antidote for 649 sunburn lotions, in 465 tan, dyeing 43 teakettle, avoiding in 138 white paint, in 362 whitewash, in 279 wicks, for candle 107 wood floors, tor cleaning 275 Limestone, paint, mixing 364 Linear measure 612 scales for 013 uncommon 61., Linen, Aberdeen, curtains, for 45 acid stains on 168 bed, clothes hamper for 154 bleaching 182 Jactip »oid for 157 FAGB Linen, blood stains on 169 buying 231 closet 231 coffee stains on 169 cover, cushions, for chair 60 dampness, preserving from 232 dress, blue, uses of 247 brown, uses of 247 embroidering 248 fruit stains on 169 " hollands " 182 India, curtains, for 45 ink, indelible for 429 removal from 168 Insects, preserving from 232 iodine stains on 169 Iron rust, removal from 168 Ironing 228 lace, washing 211 marking 231-232 ink, removal from 166-168 mildew, removal from 168 mold, removal from 168 muriatic acid for 158 old emergencies, for 663 uses of 232 oxalic acid, application of 156 packing 309-310 pillows, covering 50 raw, bleaching 183 sheeting, for 6t sheets, bedcovers, for 62 hot nights, for sleep on 153 stains, removal from 166,168 stamped, duplication of 232 sterilized, medicine closet, in 662 sterilizing 663 storing 231, 232, 310 table, hemming 232 soiled 154 stains, removal from 168 tartaric acid tor 158 tea stains, removal from 169 vegetable fiber 163 wall covering, as 38 wash, preparation for 232 waterproofing 93 white, ink stains, removal from 166 wine stains, removal from 169 yellow stains, removal from 168 Linens, solid colored, fixing 211 sprinkled, not to be 222 storing 232, 310 washing, careful 209 white, pipe clay, for ._^. 208 Lingerie, laundry, to prepare for 211 Lining, guilts, for 66 Linoleum 40 bathroom, for 67 cleaning 258 floors, sweeping 255 kitchen floor, for 40-74 laundry 40 library floors, for 68 linings for 40 painting, pantry, for 40 renewal of 41 rugs, background for 40 sitting room, in the 42 substitute for 42 varnishing 40 Linoleums, waxing 259 Linseed oil, asphalt dissolved by 367 awnings, waterprooflng 94 barrel paint, for 362 boiled, varnish, foundation for 380 brass, for cleaning 293 bronze paint, in 402 brushes, tor cleaning 360 canvas tents, waterprooflng 94 cloth, waterprooflng ,.., 93 712 INDEX PAGE Linseed oil, cold drawn, mahogany furniture, for 378 dado, in cloth for 38 flaxseed, from 352 floors, for 274 furniture, bruises, removal of 288 for 289 for cleaning 277 for polishing 381 gilt frames, for mending 291 grates, for blackening 297 hands, for the 454 ink, for printing 432 iron, for polishing 389 ironware cements, for 348 kinds of , 352 leather, for waterproofing 422-423 linoleum, in 40 musical instruments, tor 289 oilcloth, for 258 oil_, fixed vegetable 376 paints, for 352 patent leather, for 424 priming, for 354 putty, in 356 raw 352 blacking, paste, tor 424 rosin, for dissolving 366 rubber cement, for 345 shoes, tor preserving 418 squeaking, for 420 stained floors, tor 275 stone varnish, in 372 table oilcloth, for polishing 259 washing powder, in 207 waterproof varnish, in 368 waterproofing and blacking 94 wood filler, as 255 for gilding on 410 Lint, medicine closet, in 662 Lips, chapped 473 Liquid blacking 424 glue 341 Spalding's 342 measure 620-621 domestic 630 dry measure, comparison of, and. . 622 tables of 622 pickling, meat, for 591 rouge 472 soldering, making 393 Liquors, vinegar, for 562 List, shopping 235 Listerlne, medicine case, in 649 nails, for the 456 Litharge cements 347 fiexible varnish, in 368 leather, tor waterproofing 423 nature of 391-392 putty, in ■ 356 Lithographic ink 432 Living rooms 51 brown for the 36 green tor the 36 Llama dresses, washing 216 Lock, burglar-proof 286 Lockjaw, germ of 648 Logwood, black silk, for cleaning 171 chips, black, reviving faded 176 floors, tor staining 274 men's clothes, renovating 175 renovating, dye for 174 chrome, ink 427 extract of, blacking, tor 424 ink, in copying 428 feathers, renovating 180 harness, tor 425 ink, carpets, removal from 271 in 165, 426, 427 leather, blacking for 417 London purple, arsenite of lime In 330 PAGB London purple, spraying, tor 330 "Londonderry," steamer 58 Long measure 612 Longitude and time 637 Loofah, spots, for 156 stains, for 156 Lotion, hands, for the 261 Lotions 484 Lots, small, dimensions of 617 Lounge, kitchen, homemade 77 Lozenges 540 fruit 534 Lubricants 377 purification ot 378 Lubricating oils, petroleum, see. Lubricator, drills, for 378 wood 378 Lubricators 376 Lumber measure 618 Luminous ink 431 Lump-lac varnish, nature ot 366 Lunar caustic, surgery, used in 412 Luxury, air of 37 Lye, bottles, cleaning with 140 brass, for cleaning 300 caustic potash 205 washing fiuid 205 soda 205 making 188 preparing 194 soap from 197 washing fluid 205 colors, dark, for fixing 211 cooking utensils, for greasy 137 discolored silver, cleaning 143 dishes, for greasy 133 fabrics, rots 186 nature ot 187 potash, ashes, to make from 188 burners, for 149 films, tor removing 56 soap making, in 187 soda, burners, for 149 strength, standard 188 utensils, for greasy 133 water, burners, for 102 Macaroons 517, 534 Mace, linen, tor preserving ', . 232 Machine, darning by 242 grease, removal of 167 sal soda tor removing 167 needles, sharpening 238 oil, needles, rusty, tor 238 sewing, care of 235 use of 235 shop men, soap tor 195 washing 20I Machinery, bronze, ot 390 Machines, dishwashing 134 Mackintosh, cleaning a 174 don'ts in cleaning a 174 white, cleaning a . . . .' 245 Madeira vine, veranda, tor 80 Magazine covers, den, for 57 library, for 57 Magazines, disposition ot 265 Magenta, ink, for indelible 429 Magnesia, absorbent, as an 159 calcined, lace, for cle&ning 173 carbonate of, rose water, for 480 cream, complexion, tor the 464 furs, for cleaning 309 gloves, tor dry-cleaning 178 grease, tor removal ot 170 poison, antidote tor 649 powdered, lace, when packing 310 sealing wax, in 374 silk, white, tor cleaning 1'72 sulphate ot, fabrics, flreproofing 92 teeth, tor the 6O6 1NDE2C Yl3 PAGE Magnesia, toilet powders. In 471 Magnet, horseshoe, needles, for pick- ing up 238 Mahogany, chairs ot 53 furniture, coloring 378 paste for 382 silk walls, with 38 varnish for 370 Imitating 274 Mail-order plan, possibility ot 34 Making over 245 useful hints for 246-247 Malaria, mosaultoes, from 323 Malleability, metals, ot 383 property of 383 Malt vinegar 664 Mangle, cold 226 Mangles 226 Mangoes, peach . . . . , 682 pickling 574 Manicuring 455 finger nails 455 nails, the 456 Manila rope, dishcloths, for 136 Mantel, Welsbach, changing a . . . 98 Mantels, iron wire for 47 marble, cleaning 294 Manual work, educational value of .. 333 Manuscripts, faded, restoring 70 Maple bonbons, cocoanut 527 caramels 537 creams 525 sirup candy 530 sugar, clarification of 518 Maps, ethereal varnish for 372 library, for the 69 mastic for 366 water-color paint for 353 varnish for 372 Marble, artificial, making 436 cement for 340-347 tor joining 346 cleaning 294 clippings, unpainted fioors, for clean- ing 275 dust, soap, for scouring 198 iron rust, removal ot, from 294 isinglass for 342 kettles, preventing fur on 138 oil stains, removal of 295 polishing 295 sealing wax 375 stains, removal from 295 steps, cleaning 295 Marihe glue 346 compounding 349 lamps, denatured alcohol, heated with 111 soap 198, 450 Marjoram, toilet waters, for 480 Marker, crayon as 240 Marking Ink, linen, for 232 making 428 Inks 428 Marks, finger, furniture, removal of, from 287 pencil, rubber eraser for 155 white, furniture, removal of, from.. 287 Marseilles nougat 538 soap 198 Marsh gas, illuminating gas, In 95 silver, enemy of 142 test for 59 Marshihallow bonbons, cocoanut 527 Marshmallows 517, 538 Masquere's acid soap 198 Mastic 366 compound cement, in 349 marine glue, in 349 French polish, in 379 gum, Armenian cement, tor 342 varnish 373 PAGE Mastic varnish, nature of 366 in 372 oil paints, for 373 Mat, asbestos ^ 130 door 80 making 80 Matches 126 care ot 130 ordinary, making 437 safety, making 436 stains, removal of 278 Mats, dinner, asbestos, protection of. 130 picture .*. . 57 Matting, bedrooms, in 42 brightening 258 cleaning 258 fioor, cleaning on 272 grease spots, removal of, from 272 house cleaning, when 266 India, bathroom, for 67 laying 272 library floor, for 68 nights, hot, for sleeping on ..' 153 parlor, in the 42 removing stains from 272 rugs 44 as 272 making 44 use oC 44 sewing room, for 42 sitting room, for 42 stains, removal of, from 272 straw, purchasing 44 sweeping 255 taking up 272 wrappings of 5(h Mattings, fleas, favor 314 straw, carpet beetles, avoid 310 Mattress, airing 146-147 brush, on cleaning day 14T couch, for 52 protector for 64 sick room, for 66S top, cotton blanket for 64 woolen blanket for 64 Mattresses 62 cleaning 266-267 curled hair for 62 excelsior for 62 felted cotton for 62 husks for 62 straw for 62 suitable 62 Meal, rye, wood cement, in 349 Mealy bugs, kerosene emulsion for . . . 32& Measure, tape 240 Measures, comparison of 626; of value 641 weights and 611 Meat chopper, soap making in 187 cold storage for 118 cooked, preservation of 598 curing 690 diet of 648 flies, preserving, from 589 fresh, keeping 5SS frozen, keeping 590 ice, preserving, with 118 packing 591 pickling 591 liquid for 591 preparation of, for 591 preservation of 587 red pickling liquid for 693 rusty 592 salting 590, 692 tainted 592 sweetening 599 Mechanical instruments, bronze for . . 391 Mechanics, soap for 195 Medals, bronze for 403 1U INDEX PAGE Medicated soap 450 Medicine bottles, cleaning 140 case, contents of 648 closet, emergency requirements in . . 662 measuring 661 stains, silver, removal of, from 144 Melons, pickled 582 pickling 574 Mending 240 day 234 fabrics, delicate 242 garments, moth-eaten 242 pieces 241 providing 241 stockings by hand 244 table linen 240 tissue 241-345 white goods 242 Men's clothes, mending 242 pressing 174-175 renovating 175 coats, packing 302 garments, dry-cleaning 173 woolen clothes, cleaning 175 Mercury, bichloride of, poisoning from 650 cockroaches, for destroying 311 glass globes, in silvering 414 mirrors, to coat, with 393 nature of 398 nitrate of, electroplating, in 400 silver tree, for making 413 test for 405 testing 398 Merino, washing 216 Mesquite, gum, nature of 366 Metal beds, renovating 266 dipping, brass, kind of 390 expansion 392 joints, cement for 349 label Ink 431 labeling, cement for 343 lamps 149 mucilage for 340 roofs, painting, specifications for ... 358 tops, flour cement, for attaching ... 339 type 392 white, bronze for 391 Metals, alloys of 384 amalgams of 384 bronzing for 401 cement for 343-345 cleaning 293 coating 399 conductivity, of 383 coppering solutions for 400 ductility of 383 fusibility of 383 gilding 409 gilt, cleaning 294 hardness of 384 lacquers for 407 malleability of 383 painting, preparation of, for 357 paste for 293 plated, testing 405 properties of 383 rosin for soldering 366 rust, preservation from 298 scouring 156 silvering 413 specifle gravity of 382-383 Meter, gas engine. Is an 95 Meters, gas 95 inspectors, tested by 96 reading 96 Methods, labor-saving, laundry, in .. 204 Metric system, unit of 612 weights and measures of 642 Mica, isinglass, not 342 Mice, destruction of 315 matches, keeping, from 130 PAGE Mice, table linen. In 154 Mildew 164-167 absorbents for 159 alum preservation against 164 borax removing, from linen 167 buttermilk for 157 chlorine for 157 cotton, removal from 183 duck cloth, removing from 183 dust, in 252 leather, removal from 418 linen, on 168 pipeclay for 159 plants, on 329 prevention of 164 removing ■ 164 salt for 157 soap for 159 yellow, preservation against 164 stains, citric acid, removal of, with 157 treatment of 164 walls, on 284 Milk, acid principle of 157 almonds, of 466 complexion, for the 466 babies, preparation of, for 672 bottles, cleaning 140 breast, exhausted, when 672 cans 135 washing 135 casein cement, in 344 dishes, washing 135 fresh, matting, for cleaning 272 gloves, for cleaning 177 glue, waterproof, for 341 hot, sleeplessness, preventing 152 ink, invisible, for 430 spots, for 173 kid gloves, for 178 for cleaning 179 leather furniture, for cleaning 418 mother's, babies, proper food for ... 672 of lime, hides, for tanning 416 oil paintings, for cleaning 290 pans, washing 133 pasteurizing 672 petroleum products, burning, putting out 91 poison, antidote for 649 shoes, for 419 silver, for polishing 143 skim, crape lace, for cleaning 176 matting, for 258 oilcloth, for washing 258 skimmed, paint, for thinning 360 red paint, in 363 skin, for the 463 sour, ink, removal of 166 stains, removal of 166 tarnished silver, for polishing 144 stains, butter for 168 starching with 225 sterilizing 672 sweet, keeping 673 table oilcloth, for washing 259 wash boilers, cleaning 138 white paint, for cleaning 278 whitewash, in 279 Milkweed, pillows, for fancy 49 Mill, paint 352 Mineral drugs, toilet preparations. In. 460 oil, lubricant for heavy pressure ... 377 petroleum, see. Minnow, top, mosquitoes, for destroy- ing 325 Mint, fleas on dogs, for 315 linen, for preserving 232 sachet, for 477 Mirrors, cleaning 286 mercury tor 398 to coat with 398 INDEX 715 PAGE Mirrors, packing ...: 301 polishing 286 repairing 399 Mission cliairs 63 furniture, burlap walls, with 38 oak, rooms, tor northeast 3S Miterbox, dado, for 38 Mitten, polishing, stoves, polishing, for 128 Mittens, stove holders, for 129 Mixed pickles 575 Mixtures, cleansing 161 moths, to destroy 308 scouring , 162 Moir§ metalUque, tin plate, to orna- ment, with 393 wall paper, mats, tor picture B7 Moist hands 452 Molasses, blacking, liquid, for 424 candy 517 making , 529 clariflcation of 518 leather furniture, for 418 paste blacking, in 423 taffy 528 vinegar 663 Mold, books, prevention, on 68-69 essential oils, preventing 69 floors, removal from 276 ink, prevention from 427 prevention in 432 iron, removal of 164 lavender preventing 69 linen, removal from 168 paste, preventing, in 340 pennyroyal, preventing 69 preserves, preventing, in 559 prevention of 72 vinegar, protecting, from 573 walls, removal from 284 Molding, dado, for stairway 39 gilt, renewing 412 picture, effect of 56 wall, for painted 39 Molds, dust in 252 electrotyping 404 plaster of Paris, for 435 sirup for 520 Moles, depilatories for 440 removal of 440 Monday, wash day 154 Money, making 468 toilet preparations, in 458 preserving fruit, in 547 saving 458 toilet preparations, in 468 United States 641 Monogram, linen, for 429 Mops, kitchen floors, for 275 Moquette carpet '. 39 domestic 39 Morganic oxide, wood, flreprooflng ... 93 Morning dresses 247 glory, ice houses, for 120 Morphine, poisoning from 6.50 Morris chair, bed, as infant's 67 crib, as 67 lines of S3 William Morris, inventor of 34-36 Morris, William 35 Mortar, stoves, for lining 348 toilet preparations, for 461 workroom, in the 335 Mosaic gold, brass, kind of 390 Mosquito, the 323 anopheles =9 bites, curing i 326 preventing "26 remedy for 655 Mosquitoes, dangers from 323 destruction of 324 with flsh 325 PAGES Mosquitoes, disease, bringing germs of 113 drainage, to destroy by 325 household remedies against 325 kerosene for 324 lor repelling 326 life history of 324 screens for 325 Mother goose paper, nurseries, tor ... 37 of pearl, cleaning 291 polishing 296 Moth balls, moths, tor 306 buffalo 310 clothes, history of 304 -eaten garments, mending 242 millers, trapping 308 patches 440 treatment for 440 Moths, avoiding 264 bedding, protecting from 268 borax for 308 camphor for 308 carpets, protection, from 307 clothes, protection, against 306 corrosive sublimate for 308 destruction of 306-307 feathers, in ^. 309 fighting 306. furs, protecting from 118, 307 mixtures for 308 pepper for 308 petroleum products tor 808 preventives against 306 repellents tor 305-306 tobacco for 308 to repel 308 upholstered furniture, in 292 wool rags, protecting against 43 Mourning goods 175 cleaning 176 Mouse hole, yellow soap for 199 holes, stopping 316 Mouth pastilles, perfuming the breath. 611 washes 509 Mucilage 339-340 botanical 340 cold cream, in 470 dextrin 340 gum arable in 340 ink, in marking 428 ivory 340 label 340 preservation of 341 sealing wax, for white 375 Mud stains, colored goods, on 173 gasoline, cleaning with 160 kerosene for removing 167 removal of 167-173 Muflans, bran, invalids, for 668 Mulled wine, invalids, for 671 Murdock, William, illuminating gas, inventor of 95 Muriate of ammonia, freckles, for ... 463 of lime, chalk, for prepared' 436 of tin 394 Muriatic acid, application of 158 brass, for cleaning 299 fur, removal of 138 furniture, for cleaning 382 greasy, for cleaning 381 gold, coloring brass 401 plating, in 406 ink, copying, removal of 166 furniture, removal from ■. 288 for metal label 431 restoring faded 432 indelible, removing from linen .. 166 removal of, from linen 168 stains, removal of 432 floors, removal from 277 linen, removal from 167 iron, for coppering 389 716 INDEX PAGE Muriatic acid. Iron rust, tor 164 Ivory, for etching on 435 nature and uses of 168 poisoning from 649 putty, for removing 279 rust, for removing 299 salt in 158 soldering liquid, in making 393 stains, removal of 166 steel, for staining 387 straw braid, bleaching 184 sulphuric acid in '... 168 tinning, for 393 window glass, for restoring 286 zinc, for bronzing 401 Mushroom catsup 583 Mushrooms, pickling 581 poisoning from 660 preserving 684 Music 63 cabinet 64 room, pictures for 55 sheet, binding 54 care of 64 Musical bells, bronze for 391 education, cost of 53 instruments, varnish for 374 cleaner for 289 varnish for 374 Musk, essence, lavender water, for . . 481 perfumes, for 476 linen, for preserving 232 moths, for repelling 307 sachet, for 477 soap 450 Muslin, curtains, for 45, 214 Muslin curtains 45 dotted, bedspreads, for 63 laundry bags, for 164 soap, should not be rubbed with 208 unbleached, bleaching 184 Muslins, doing up 224 washing 208 care in 209 Must, cask, removal from 262 Mustache pomade 497 raising a 497 Mustard bath 446 pickles 675 plasters, making 663 vomiting, for inducing 649 Mutton bams, pickling 693 tallow, hands, for the 453 leather, for waterproofing 421 soap, for 188 making, for 189 Myrrh, teeth, for the 506 Myrtle flowers, toilet waters, for 480 soap 461 Nailbrush, finger, splinter under 648 heads, cement for covering 349 rusty, drawing a 336 silver, polishing 143 splinter under, yellow soap for 199 Nails 335 anatomy of the 438 biting, preventing children from 455 diseases of the 456 drawing 336 driving 336 finger, disease of the 456 ingrowing 456 manicuring the 465-456 toughening 456 whitening the 466 hammering, irons, never use for ... 227 ingrowing 466 kinds of 335 manicuring the 455 mixed 336 PAGB Nails, polishing the ' 456 rust, to preserve, from 298 shoes, in 420 sizes of 335 toughening the 456 under, white spots 457 whitening the 456 workroom, in the 336 yellow soap for 199 Nap, cloth, to raise on 245 woolen goods, raising, on 174 Naphtha, bedbugs, for exterminating. 313 burning, putting out 91 flexible varnish, in 368 French polish, for 379 gloves, for cleaning 177 harness, for waterprooflng 425 moths, for destroying 308 nature of 160 petroleum^ see. soap, feathers, for cleaning 179 silk, for cleaning 172 stove polish, in 129 upholstered furniture, for cleaning. . 292 wax stains, for 164 Naphthaline, moths, for 305 Napkins, ironing 229 red or scarlet, fixing color of 211 soiled 164 tablecloths, old, from 233 Narrow room, of, improving effect ... 48 Nasturtiums 581 Nautical measure 613 Neapolitan creams 626 Neat's-foot oil 377 goatskins, for tanning 417 harness, for 418-425 hides, for tanning 416 nature of 377 purifying 377 shoes, tor 419-421 Neck, bleeding of 654 Neckties, satin, cleaning 172 silk, crazy quilts, pieces for 66 Needle, crochet, stockings, to mend with 244 darning, threading a 238 machine, sharpening a 238 wound 648 Needles 238; box for 235« picking up 238 receptacle for 235 rust, prevention of 238 threading 238 Negatives, photographic, passepartout, for 56 Neroli, oil of, sachet, for 477 Nervousness, sleeplessness, cause of. . 151 Net bedspreads 63 lace curtains, tor mending 46 Neuralgia, fomentation cloth for 660 Neurasthenia, sleeplessness, cause of 161 New tins, preparation of 138 Newspaper, cellars, for 262 china, for packing 300 cracks, for filling 273 damp, carpets, when sweeping 269 dust, for preventing 251 garbage, for 13a garbage can, inside of 146i grates, for keeping clean 130 matting, before laying 272 when cleaning 258 shoes, for tight 4ig soft, furniture, for polishing 381 stair carpets, preventing wear of 269 velvet, for cleaning 17J windows, for polishing 283 Newspapers, boots, for drying 421 canvas shoes, when cleaning 420 cleaning with 145 INDEX 717 PAGB Newspapers, clothes, when packing .. 309 moths, tor repelling 306 oilcloth, under 40 pantry shelves, tor 76 quilts, tor 65 shoes, tor drying 418 wiping with 145 uses ot 78 stair carpets, padding tor 273 stoves, tor polishing 129 Nickel, cleaning 129, 294-299 coin. United States 641 fittings, rust, prevention of 298 nature ot 396 plating, solution tor 406 steel 397 nature of 397 Night air 59 lamps 104 preparations for the 160 Nightmare, nature of 151 Nights, hot, sleeping on 153 Nigrosine, ink, stylographic, in 165 testing for 165 Nipples, cleaning 674 Nitrate of lime, water, for clarifying 116 of mercury, metals, in gilding 409 ot silver, ink, indelible, in 429 ivory, for etching on 435 in silvering 414 metals, for silvering 413 stains, ammonia for 158 removal of 167 of tin 395 yellow, for dyeing 395 Nitric acid, blue paint, in 363 brass, bronzing, for 402 tor cleaning 293, 390 candles, lard, for 108 feathers, tor bleaching 184 gilding, glass, removal from 410 glue, liquid, tor making 341 waterproof, for 341 Grecian gilding, tor 410 ink tor metal label 431 furniture, removal from 288 iron, for coppering 389 rust, marble, removal from 295 metals, for testing 405 poisoning from 649 putty, for removing 279 rosin dissolved by 366 silver, tor purifying 413 stains, linen, removal from 167 steel, for staining 387 test tor 568 Nitrogen, atmosphere, in 68 Nose, foreign bodies in 655 Nosebleed, treatment of 654 Nougats 538 Nurseries, paper, mother goose, tor .. 37 Nursing, home 660 Nut candies 517, 532 creams 526 cups 535 kisses 537 loaf candy 535 oils, paints, in 353 Nutgall inks 165 stains, removal of 105 Nutgalls, ink, in 426 for invisible 431 leather, for black 417 Nutmeg, linen, tor preserving 232 oil ot, lavender water, tor 481 Nuts, cracking, irons, never use, tor. 227 storing 604, 610 Nux vomica, poisoning from 651 Oak bark, tannin in 416 furniture, burlap walls, with 38 PAOB Oatmeal, furs, for cleaning 309 gruel. Invalids, tor 670 hands, tor softening the 453 Scotch, skin, for the 463 soap 449 Oats, boots, for drying 421, green, tor coloring bronze green .... 401 Ooher, whitewash, for 279-280 Odor, alcohol stove, none with 110 onion, removal of 511 paint, destruction ot 279 Odors, cooking 131 drains, in 113 earthenware, from 13? removal of 135, 310 Oil adhesives 346 books, removal from 69 doors, for creaking 286 flsh, purifying 377 putrid, deodorizing 377 floor 42, 256, 273 coloring 274 gilding, wood, on 410 hair, coloring 49S illuminating, testing 101 kerosene IOC improvement of 105 lamps, choosing , 101 linseed, furniture, for 288 hands, for 454 paints, for 35! machine, needles, rusty, tor 23E neat's-f oot 37^ purifying iTi ot lavender, gold lacquer, for 401 of tar, harness, for oiling 42E of vitriol, Masquere's acid soap, in.. 19! olive, castile soap, in 19! men's clothes, for 17E tar, removal ot 17S paint, kitchen walls, for 7< thinning 36( with water 36( paintings, cleaning 29( preservation of 29( varnish for 37! white, restoring in 291 paints, varnish for 37! poison, antidote tor 64! sewing machine 23( size, knots, tor killing 36! -stained floors, care of 27! stains, alcohol, dissolved by 16^ colored goods, on 17! French chalk tor 17! marble, removal from 29! removal of 171 stove, sewing room, for 231 stoves, carbonic-acid gas from 81 heating system, as 8! living rooms, in 8! sweet, laces, for 21! rust on irons, prevention ot 221 tar, removal ot 171 whetstone 371 Oilcloth 41 bag, clothespins, for 21! book, receipt, for 7' brightening 251 bureau scarf, under 6' carpet beetles, avoiding 311 cleaning 251 floors, sweeping 251 kitchen floor, for 7' table, for 75, 13! laying 40, 27! linings tor 41 making 36! purchasing 41 shelves, kitchen, for 71 spots, removal from 25! 718 INDEX PAGE Oilcloth, substitute for 42 table, cleaning 258 varnishing 40 washstand, for 67 waxing 259 white, pantry shelves, for 76 Oiled papers, uses of 77 sillc, mending, for 345 Oiliness, ink, removal from 432 Oils 376 animal, fixed 276 preservation of 377 rancid, to restore 377 drying, preparation of 376 essential, mucilage, for preserving. . 341 testing 475 ether, dissolved by 164 fixed 367 hair, compounding 491 perfumes for 492 use of 491 turpentine, spirits of, dissolved by, 159, 164 vegetable, fixed 376 purifying 376 soap, in 187 volatile 474 nature of 474 wood furniture, for 288 Oilstone, workroom, in the 335 Oilstones, lierosene oil for 378 straightening 378 Ointment, skin, relaxed, for the 440 wrinkles, for 440 Oleic acid, cloth, waterproofing 93 Olive color paint, mixing 364 oil, Circassian cream, in 473 fixed vegetable oil 376 furniture, tor polishing 381 gas range, for 131 gun barrels, in bronzing 402 hands, for the 453-154 Jet, for cleaning 434 kid boots, for 420 lace, whitening 185 laces, for 212 men's clothes, for renovating 175 mosquito bites, for curing 326 oil paintings, for cleaning 290 patent leather, for 424 poison, antidote for 649-660 purifying 378 (see clocks) sealing wax, for soft 375 soap, camphor, in 450 steel knives, preventing rust on... 141 varnished furniture, polishing 380 wood filler, as 255 Olives, preserving 584 Onion diet 646 juice, scorch, for removing 231 Onions, cold, pickling 678 files, preventive against 322 gilt picture frames, tor 289 odor of, to remove 511 pickled 578 pickles 577 pickling, selection of 578 storing 605 Open grates 85 Opium, poisoning from 650 Opticians, cement f oi> 342 Orange color paint, mixing 364 drops 532 flavoring 542 flowers, toilet waters, for 480 ice, invalids, for 669 juice, poison, antidote for 650 tan shoes, -for 421 marmalade, candied 533 oil of, lavender water, for 481 PAOE Orange, oil of, perfumes, for 476 pastils 631 peel, toilet waters, for 480 stick, eyelet embroidery, for 248 finger nails, tor the 455 straws 533 Orchard pests 326 Order, habits of 68 Oregon wash, San Jas# scale, for 331 spraying with 331 Organ, care of 53 Oriental rugs, care of 258 cleaning 270 preferable 34 use of 41 Ornaments, background for 37 bedroom 268 gilt, cleaning 290 paper, large figured, on 37 relief, bringing out in 37 silver, cleaning 290 varnish for 373 Orris, linen, for preserving 232 powder, almond paste, for 469 root, sachet, for 477 teeth, for the 506 tincture, lavender water, for 481 toilet powders. In 471 violet water, for 480 Outdoor bathing 444 Outing fiannel, dish towels, for 136 silverware, for 143 Oven, care of the 131 gas-range, care of , 131 overheated 129 Ovens, stoves, tor alcohol 110 Overalls, brush for 203 stove holders, for 130 Overfeeding babies 673 Overshoes, box for 421 care of 421 mending 345 rubber, leather, destroy strength of 418 Oxalic acid, alabaster, tor cleaning... 296 application of 156 bleaching with 157-184 bluing, in making 222 books, for cleaning 70 for ink stains on 70 for Iron stains on 70 brass, for cleaning 293-299 inlaid work, for cleaning 291 color restored by 246 copper ware, tor 137 gloves, for ink stains on 179 hands, stains, tor removal of, from 453 Ink, for blue 430 furniture, for removal of, from. 288 stains, floors, for removal of, from 277 for 173 removal of 166 iron rust, marble, removal of, from 294 for removal of 164-167 leather, ink, removal of, from 418 lime, test for 115 marble stains, tor removal of 295 matting, stains, tor removal of, from 272 petroleum stain on oak, for re- moving 257 piano keys, for 289 poisoning from 649 shoes, for 419 silk, tor bleaching 172 silver seals, for cleaning 14S solution, dilute, of 156 saturated, of 156 stains, removal of 156 stone work, for cleaning 293 straw, for bleaching 181 INDEX 719 PAGE Oxalic acid, tea and coffee Etains, for 163 use of 156, 453 wine stains, linen, removal of, from 169 Oxgall, black lace, for washing 213 for reviving faded 176 silk, for cleaning 171 carpets, for cleaning 270 for freshening faded 271 color, for fixing 210 colored silks, in washing 215 woolens, in waslilng 216 colors, for brightening 175 comforters, in washing 218 freckles, for 463 ink, oiliness, removal of, from 432 stains, for removing 432 men's woolen clothes, for cleaning. . 175 patent leather, for 424 soap, in 198 sunburn lotion, in 465 woolen goods, for 176 shawls, for washing \... 217 Oxide of copper, stone varnish, In 372 of iron, red, iron, for welding 386 safety matches, for 436 sealing wax, for red 375 zinc, for bronzing 401 of lead, drying oils, for 376 gilding size, for 411 red, red sealing wax, for 374 of tin 394 of zinc, white paint, in 362 Oxygen, atmosphere, In 58 bleaching agent 181 breathing, necessary in 58 combustion, in 123 life, essential to 104 lungs, in our 104 oil, In burning of 104 paintings, white, restoration of 291 Oyster broth for invalids 668 catsup 585 shells, cement, in 347 clinkers, removal of 128 kettles, preventing fur on 138 white of egg, with 344 OVsters, creamed, invalids, tor ..-. — 666 broiled, invalids, for 666 scalloped, invalids, for 667 Packages, trade, weights of 627 Packing 300 canned fruit 548 garments, to prepare, for 309 miscellaneous objects 303 removal, for , 300 traveling, for 302 Pad, table 73 Pages, book, mending torn 71 Pails, tin cans, from » 78 lard, uses of 78 mop 275 wood floors, for 275 Paint 164 acid-proof 362 application of 355 bathtub, for 442 benzine, dissolved by 164 bronze, iron, for 402 brush, stoves, for polishing 129 brushes, cleaning 360 burner, metals, preparation for paint- ing 357 paint, for removing 278 canvas, for 364 care of J™ chloroform, dissolved by 164 cleaning ^*^?ZI coarse f ;° painted sink 1*6 PAGE Paint, cleaning white 277 clothespins, for 219 colored, to mix 362 dryer for 353, 360 enamel, linen closet shelves, tor ... 231 fireproof 361 fresh, keeping 360 floors, for 42 fur, on 180 ingredients of 353 kinds of 360 lead, oil paintings, for 290 linoleum, for 40 linseed oil for 352 mill 361 naphtha soap, for 172 odor of, to destroy 279 oil, kitchen walls, for 74 water, thinning with 360 oilcloth, on 40 pigments for 362 quantity to use 353 ready-made 353 receptacle for 335 removal of 278, 285 rust-proof, iron, for 388 steel, for 388 shades of 364 ..silk, removal of, from 171 stains, gasoline, cleaning, with 160 removal of 165 stove pipes, for 297 sulphurous ether, dissolved by 164 thinners for 353 tints of 364 turpentine, dissolved by 164 removal of 159 use of 353 useful 353 walls, for 36 water-color 353 windows, removal of, from 285 workroom, in the 335 zinc, with 361 Painting, asphalt used in 367 before 355 brick, specifications for 357 houses, rules for 354 inside, old work 356-357 woodwork 3, 359 new work outside, specifications for 35fi old work inside, specifications for .. 357 outside, specifications for 356 outside 3551 old work 356 plaster 359 rough walls 28S sashes 355 specifications for 355 stipple wail 359 stucco specifications for 35T whitewashed wall 283 window sills 355 woodwork, preparation before 349 zinc, white, with 358 Paintings, mastic for 366 oil, cleaning 290 preservation of 290 varnish for 372-37S whites In, restoration of 291 Paints, care of 380 dryers for 353 kinds of 353 Unseed oil for 352 ready-made 353 Palladium, gold alloyed with 408 Palm of hand, bleeding of 654 oil, axle grease, in 378 honey soap, in 449 oil, fixed vegetable 376 tinning, for 393 720 INDEX PAGE Palm oil, toilet preparations, for 461 Panama hats, cleaning 181 Panic, keeping cool 647 Fans, frying, newspapers, wiping, witli 145 Pantry, conveniences for 73 linoleum for 40 shelves 76 tableware for 133 Paper bags, lamp chimneys, for polish- ing 148 stoves, polishing, for 128 uses of 77 bronzing 403 building, floors, on 42 pantry shelves, for 76 varnish paint on 42 dark-colored, for linen 232 gilding 412 glue for 342 ■ flexible, for 341 hanger's paste 281,339 hanging 281 size for 281 imitation leather, dining room, for.. 37 halls, for 37 kindling, as 125 measure 635 paint for 362 parchment glue for 350 pillows, for fancy 49 rough wall, for a 282 silvering ^ 414 stock sizes of 635 tarred roofing, carpet beetles, avoid- ing 311 tissue 77 walls, for 36 washable, kitchen walls, for 74 pantry shelves, for 76 waterproof, bathroom, in 67 oilcloth, kitchen, for 37 wrapping 77 bedding, for storing 268 curtains, for stretching 214 Papering, cost of 615 Papers, bedrooms, for 37 figured 37 oiled 77 old, burning 128 Papiermach€, cleaning 296 Paraffin, frescoes, for 281 irons, for 227 metals, rust, for protecting, from . . 298 moths, repellent for 306 oil, furniture, for cleaning 287 (petroleum, see) putty, windows, removal of, from .. 285 stains, for removing 208 varnish, in 372 wax, floors, for 256 wooden bedsteads, for 266 zinc, for cleaning 299 Paragrene, spraying with 330 Parchment, gilding size, for 411 glue 350 gold, designing in 412 portable glue, in 342 varnish 374 Paregoric, poisoning from 650 Paris green, green paint, in 363 poisoning from 651 potato bugs, for 330 principle, active 329 spraying with 329 Parisian nougats 538 Parlor furniture, linen walls, with ... 38 (living rooms, see) Parsley, drying 608 Parsnips, keeping 605 Passepartout 66 fission flower, veranda, for 80 PAGE Paste, almond 468 complexion, for the 465 blacking, nature of 423 complexion 468 compounding of 461 dentists' nerve 614 drops, raspberry 632 flour 338 making 338 preservation of 339 gum-arabic 339 mahogany furniture, for 382 metals, for 293 paperhanger's 281, 339 making 339 rice 339 rouge 472 Pasteboards, shoes, for nails in 420 Pastes 338 compounding of 461 denatured alcohol used in 110 tooth 509 Pasteurizing milk 672 Pastille incense 476 Pastilles 478, 517, 531 compounding 476 mouth and breath, for perfuming the 511 Pastries, diet of 646 Patent leather, care of 424 Pattern, absence of 37 linen, for 232 making over 246 Patterns, carpet, matching 44 delicate, carpets, in 43 dress 237 holder for 237 large, carpets, in 43 small, carpets, in 43 stamping homemade 247 wall-paper 37 Pea coal, banking fires, for 82 economy, for 127 special grate for 82 Peach mangoes 582 •preserves 55( tree gum 35( Peaches, Paris green for pickled 58( ripe, preserving 55( Peanut nougat 533 Pearl, candy making, in 51i color, mixing 36< powder, use of 39i white, nature of 39( Peariash, almond creams, in 461 flres, for putting out 91 furniture, in paste for 3gi green paint, in 361 plaster of Paris in, for hardening . . 43( silvering, for 41; waxe4 fioors, for polishing 251 Pearline washing powder 20' Pears, ginger, preserving, in 55j molasses, preserved in 55j pickled 681 Peas, dry, storing jo' green, preserving 601 storing 60' shelled, storing 60' Peat (or turf), fuel, as 8] Pebbles, filters, for 11; Peel, candied 53; Pencil erasers, cleaning 7: marks, laundry, removal of, from .. 151 sharpener 71 Pendulum 641 Pennsylvania fireplace, Franklin sto're! or 81 Pennyroyal, mold, for prevention of . . 6! mosquitoes, for repelling 321 Pens, new .,....,..,..,.,,, 7: INDEX 721 rjLGE Pepper, black, black colors, fixing 211 catsup 585 cayenne, garbage cans, for 146 fly paper, for 323 moths, for 308 shelf for 76 Peppermint, carpets, moths, for pro- tecting from 307 creams 525 lozenges 540 mouse holes, for 316 pastilles 631 tincture of, medicine case, in 648 Peppers, pickled 681 Spanish 576 Pepsin, blood stains, for removal of .. 169 Percale, pillows, for covering 50 Perfume, geranium 479 rose 477 sealing wax 376 Perfumed soaps 448 toilet water 480 Perfumes 460-474 hair oils, for 492 individual 475 nature of 474 odor of 475 toilet preparations, tor 460 Periodicals 265 disposition of 265 educators, as 41 Permanent teeth 504 care of 504 Peroxide of hydrogen 510 linen, for blood stains on 169 nails, for the 456 tan, for 465 of manganese, safety matches, for.. 436 Persian insect powder 69 Perspiration, odor of, yellow soap re- moves 199 Peruvian bark, teeth, for the 606 Pests, farm 326 Petroleum, crude, insects, for destroy- ing 330 distillation of 160 fuel, as 81 oil, crude, oilcloth, for 258 products of 101 fleas, for destroying 314 moths, for 308 Pewter 395 nature of 396-398 solder for 394 Phosphoric acid, ivory, for softening.. 434 Phosphorus, combustion, in 123 ink, for luminous 431 light, for vest-pocket 106 matches, in making 123 paints 353 paste, vermin, for 310 poisoning from 650 rats, for 315 for repelling 317 safety matches, for 436 turpentine, dissolved by 159 Photograph glue 341 Photographs, ethereal amber varnish for 372 family 54-55 Photography, silver nitrate used in... 412 Piano, care of 53,289 front room, for 52 keys, cleaning 289 mucilage for 340 player, invention of 53 wires, preventing rust on 299 Pianos, cleaning 289 Piazza, mosquitoes, screens, for 325 Piccalilli 576 Pickle cask, sweetening a 26^ PAGE Pickle, spiced 573 Pickles 570 copper, testing, for 390 green, making 574 mixed 576 mustard 576 storeroom for 79 storing 571 vinegar, testing, tor 572 Pickling 570 meat, preparation of, tor 591 utensils for 572 Pick-me-up, invalids, for 671 Picture frames, cleaning 289 colored copal varnish for 371 gilding 411 gilt, protection of 289 hooks, use of 56 molding, ceiling, close to 37 dado, for 38 effect of 66 lowering 37 object of 56 pantry shelves, for 76 wire, use of 66 ironing board, for 227 Pictures 72 backgrounds for 37-38 good and bad taste in 54 hanging 5& mats for 67 packing 301 papers, large figured, on 37 plaster, transferring to 67 relief, bringing out, in 37 selection of 56-72 transferring 57 water-color paint for 353 Pieces, large, hanging out 220 mending 241 sorting 66 special, washing 209 Pig iron, nature of 385 Pigment, stains, for 274 Pigments, oil, vehicle for 369 for paints 352 Pillow case, curtains, for 214 cases, laundry bags, as 154 making 64 storing 231 ticks 60 Pillows, couch 52 covers for 50 curled hair for 62 fancy, filling tor 49 feather 63 cleaning 267 filling 64 feathers for 63 making 50 sick room, for 663 sofa, covering 60 making 60 Pimples 440 nature of 440 Pine bark, tannin, in 416 cones, kindling, as 126 pillows, for fancy 49 Pineapple bonbons 527 Pineapples, preserving 569 Pine-tree tar cough candy 640 Pink, candy, coloring 642 Pinks, fixing 211 Pins 239 care of 239 Pipe, iron, cement tor mending 348 Pipe-clay, alabaster, stains, for re- moval of, from 436 awnings, fireproofing 93 books, for 69 canvas shoes, for cleaning 420 722 INDEX PAGE Pipe-clay cleansing mixture 161 gloves, for cleaning 177 for ink stains on 179 grease, wall paper, for removal of, from 283 leather, grease, for removal of, from 418 linens, for white 208 marble, for cleaning 294 mildew, for 159 linen, for removal of, from 168 oil stains, for 173 scouring mixture, in 162 skirt, for dry-cleaning 167 worsteds, light colored, for cleaning 177 Pipes, asbestos for 113 copper, cement for mending 350 frost, prevention of, in 263 frozen water 114 bursting of 118 lead for 391 protection of 264 painting, specifications for 358 thawing 263 waste water, removal of, from 112 water 113 cement for 347 Pistachio, milk of, almond paste, for. . 469 Pitch, fish, in gilding 411 leather, for waterproofing 422 rubber cement, for 345 steel, for toughening 3S8 white, lime paint, for 361 Plank, footstools, for 49 Plant lice, kerosene emulsion for 328 Plants, dry, varnish for 373 Plaster, adhesive 647 medicine case, in 649 casts, bronze for 402 electrotyping, for 404 cement for 347 of Paris, alabaster, imitating 436 casting 435 cements 347 cockroaches, for exterminating 311 cracks, for filling 273 plaster, for repairing, in 281 electrotyping, in 404 gilding size, for 411 gum-arabic cement, in 340 hardening 436 knife handles, for fastening 141 lamps, for mending 149 molds for 435 nature of 435 pictures, transferring, to 57 sealing wax, for 375 setting, prevention from 435 steel joints, for soldering 386 use of 435 varnish, foundation for 380 white of egg cement, in 344 wood filler, as 255 medicine closet, in 662 painting, inside 359 with zinc 359 pictures, transferring 57 poison, antidote for 649 repairing 281 rosin, use of, in 366 Plastering, cost of 615 Plate rack, effect, for improving 48 rail, dining room, for 73 scraper, sheet rubber, of 133 Plated metals, testing 405 Plates, door, cleaning 145 Plating, brass 405 German silver 405 solutions for : 405 gold, solution for 404 nickel, solution for 406 Silver, solution lor 404 PAGB Platinum, gold alloyed with 408 nature of 399 solder 394 soldering 399 Plots, acre, dimensions of 617 Plumbers, cement for 344 Plumbing, exposed 134 Plume, candy-making 519 Plush, faded, reviving 172 Pocket, shoe, overshoes, for 421 Pockets, silverware 142-143 Point lace, laundry, preparation of, for the 212 Poison, antidotes for 649 bedbug 313 cautions in using 156 ivy, poisoning from 655 labels for 155 rat 315 Poisoning, fainting from 651 Poisonous, fly-paper, to make 322 Polish, application of 129 French 378 furniture 378 preparation of 381 leather, for 425 waxed floor 256 Polishing, furniture 380 iron 228 Pomade, mustache 497 Pongee, washing 215 Popcorn balls, making 539 cakes 639 candy 539 Poppy oil, French polish, for finishing 380 leather, in waterproofing 423 paints, in 353 Porch, mosquitoes, screen, for 325 sleeping 61, 645 Porches, sleeping, sanitariums, in 59 Pores, skin, in the 441 Pork hams, curing 594 smoking 595 scraps, soap making, for 189 Portable glue 341-342 Portidres ^. 48 (draperies, see) Posset, invalids, for 670 Possibilities, denatured alcohol, of 111 Postage stamps, dextrin for 337 mucilage for 340i Potash, aluminum corroded by 397 bichromate of, safety matches, for.. 436 harness, for blacking 425 blackheads, for 439 carbonate, cold cream, for 470 caustic, rat holes, for stopping 316. soap, for 188 in ise cautions in use of 205 chemical soap, in 16^ chromate of, ink, in copying 428 crude, washing fiuid, in 206 ferrocyanide of, faded manuscripts, restoration of, by 70 hard water, for softening 204 iron kettles, for 137 ivory knife handles, for bleaching.. 14? laundry, in the 20^ lime paint, for 3611 lye, ashes, making, from 188 caustic, washing fluid 205 gas range, for cleaning 13^ glass, for polishing 296 mold, removal, from linen 168 oven racks, for 13^ plaster of Paris, for hardening!!!! 43( splinters, for removing 45( tallow, for clarifying lo; making X8i oven doors, cleaning 13] INDEX 723 PAGE Potash, poisoning from 650 permanganate of, grease, purifying. 189 prussiate of, blue paint, in 363 Bordeaux mixture, lor testing .;.. 328 putty, for removing 279 soaps, liard 193 soft soap, for 189 wood, flreprooflng 93 Potassium, carbonate of, inlc, for red. .430 cbromate, inlc, in logwood 427 cyanide of, books, for ink stains on 70 marking ink, removal of, from linen 168 ink, nitrate of silver, removal of ... 166 sulphide, insects, tor destroying 329 spraying, for 329 Potato bug, arsenite of lead for 331 Paris green for 330 juice, silk, cleaning with 170 oil paintings, for cleaning 290 raw, bric-a-brac, for cleaning 292 steel knives and forks, for 141 velvet, cleaning 170 sink, for cleaning 146 starch, calico, for 210 Potatoes, bottles, cleaning 140 grease, leather, removal from 418 raw, colored goods, cleaning 211 scab in \ 329 silver, discolored, for cleaning 143 sprouting, keeping from 606 storing 60S Potpourri 479 nature of 479 Pot scraper, dishwashing, for 134 Pots, coffee, cleaning 138 odor, prevention of 139 greasy, washing fluid for 205 iron, cement for 348 newspapers, wiping with 145 tea, odor, removal from 139 Potted beef 599 Poultice bags, making 663 Poultices, making 660 medicine closet, in 662 Poultry houses, rats in 317 Powder, bleaching, uses of 159 bronze 402 burnishing 294 metals, for 294 curry 586 gold, making 409 hands, for the 455 rouge 472 Powders, compounding of 461 hair 496 compounding 496 sachet 476 toilet 471 bases of 469 tooth 507 compounding 507 washing 207 Power, motor, alcohol as Ill Pralines 517 Prepared chalk, making 436 Preserves, canned, shelves for 263 storeroom for 79 ' storing 548 Preserving 547 day 552 fruit, rules for 558 materials for 551 methods of ..., 552 process of 551 Press, men's clothes 175 Pressed beef 600 Priming 354 coat 365 Prince Rupert's metal, brass, kind of 390 Print goods, soap, should not be rubbed with 208 PAGE Printer's ink 432 dryers for 432 removal of 167 Printers, soap for 195 Printing, bronze, with 403 ink 432 Prints, cleaning 70 varnish for 373 washing, careful 209 Products, petroleum 101 Proof spirits, see alcohol. Proportions, table of, cooks' 634 Protectors, sleeve 136 Prune jelly, invalids, for 669 Prussian blue, harness, for 425 ink, for blue 430 for printing 432 patent leather, for 424 waterproofing and blacking 94 Prussic acid, almond preparations, in 466 poisoning from 650 Psyche's kisses 537 PufC iron, tucks, for 226 Puffs, factory-made 65 Pulled taffy 528 Pulleys, lubricating 378 Pumice powder, paint, for removing.. 360 powdered, sand soap, in 19S stone, alabaster, for cleaning 436i polishing 299 blackboards, in paint, for 361 bookbindings, for 71 burners, for polishing 149 flatting with 365 hardwood floors, for 255 ironing board, for 226 ivory knife handles, bleaching 14? for polishing 4341 machine needles, for sharpening. . 238 molding, in regilding 412 mother-of-pearl, for polishing 296 oilstones, for straightening 378 old gilt frames, renovating 291 rust, for removing 299 scouring soap, for 198 with 141 stains, nails, removal from 456 stucco work, for polishing 295 varnished furniture, polishing .... 3801 Pumicing floors 42 Pumpkins, drying 608 keeping 605' Pumps, freezing, prevention of ...113, 263, felt, keeping on 420 water supply for 112 Purple, beef gall for brightening 208 color, paint, mixing 364 leather, dyeing 417 varnish, making 371 Putrefaction 565 Putrid fish oil, deodorizing 37T Putty, composition of 358 cracks, for flliing 273 powder, alabaster, for polishing .... 298 furniture, before polishing 380 mother-of-peart, for polishing .... 296 nails, stains, removal from 456 removal of 279 tin pans, for mending 394 windows, removal from 285 Quartz, wood filler, as 289 Queen's metal, nature of 395 Quicklime, Bordeaux mixture, in 327 casein cement, in 344 closets, in damp 76 coppersmith's cement, in 350 hard water, for softening 204 marble steps, for cleaning 295 paint, for removing 278 steel knives and forks, for 141 724 Index PAGE Quicklime, washing fluids. In 205-207 Quills, preparation for writing 180 writing, for 180 Quilting frame, curtains, tor stretch- ing 214 frames, homemade 66 without 65-66 knot, tying 66 Quilts 64 cheap 65 crazy, making 65 eiderdown 267 hanging out 220 lining 65 prbtectlon of 66 tying 66 Quince seeds, cold cream, for 470 hands, for the 454 preparation of 459 Rabbit skins, glue, for making 350 Rack, dining room, for 73 kitchen, utensils for 75 tin 76 Radiator, drum, stovepipe on the 86 Radiators, gas jets, on 86 lamps, on 86 painting, specification for 358 Radishes, diet, in 646 Rag carpet 43 cleaning 271 making 43 mending 269 warp, coloring 43 rugs, making 44 use of 44 Railings, iron, painting, specifications for 358 Rain barrels, screens for 325 comforters, for 218 -water barrel 204 drinking, for 114 laundry, for 116, 203 Raincoats, mending tissue for 345 Raisin candy 533 Raisins, hands, chapped, for 456 Rancid animal oils, restoration of 377 Range, asbestos, protection of 130 coal for 127 flre, banking 127 lighting on one side 128 saving of coal 127 shaking and cleaning 127 gas, care of 131 cleaning 130 kitchen, care of 128 shelves 76 two-oven, gas consumed by 96 Rape-seed oil, Castile, in 198 Raspberry pastilles 632 vinegar 669 Rat holes, filling 318 stopping 316 Ratafias 517, 635 Ratite, directions for use of 319 rats, for 318 Rat-proof construction 318 Rats, broom, protecting from 252 destruction of 315 dogs for 317 ferrets for 317 fumigation for 318 matches, keeping from 130 poisoning 315 poultry houses, in 317 ratite for 318 trapping 316 Rattan furniture, cleaning 289 Raw linen, bleaching 182 Razor, ripping, for 249 strop 498 PAGE] Razor strops, preparations for 498 Razors, safety 497 stropping 498 Reading aloud 72 Ready-made paints 353 Receipt hook, homemade 77 oilcloth for 77 Recipes, soft soap, for 190 spraying 327 toilet 458 Red, best, sealing wax, making 374 bottle wax 560 bronze 402 candy, coloring 541 den, for 36 fixing 211 hair dye 494 hands 452. ink 429 leather, alum for 417 man's room, for a 36 paint 363 pickling liquid, meat, for 593 rust stains, muriatic acid for 158 Sanders, rouge, for 472 sanderswood, French polish, for col- oring 379 sealing wax, making best 374 spiders, kerosene emulsion for 328 stains, colored goods, from 167 varnish, making 371 warm shades of, rooms, for northeast 36 wine stains 167 ammonia for 158. sulphur, removal of 167 Redness, hands, of the 452! Reds, fixing 211 Refrigeration 81, 118 Refrigerator, care of the 122 cleaning 122 disinfecting 122 drainage of 119 Refurnishing 3S RegUding 412 Register, dust and gases from 84 screen for 251 Registers, dusted 84- sweeping, closed while 84 ventilating grate 86 wall, set in g^ Regulating hot air 84 Regulus of antimony 39g Remedial agents 459 Remedies, household 325 toothache sig Remnants, box for 235 Renovate tape measure 240 woolen goods 174 Renovating 244. black dye for 174 Resin, benzine, dissolved by 164 cement 343 chloroform, dissolved by 159, 164 kindling, as 127 paste, library, in 3391 sandarac varnish, in 371 soap, tor increasing 194 sulphurous ether, dissolved by 164 turpentine, dissolved by 159,164 Resins 333, 365 nature of 365 stains, solutions for 15a Respiration, artificial 66S Rhodium, oil of, sachet, lor 477 test tor t 475 Rhubarb, drying 608 root, curing gog wood, sachet, tor 477 Ribbons, cleaning isg doing up ;;;;' 229 ■ flatiron for 22(i INDEX 725 PAOB Ribbons, ironing 228 lace for 198 soap jelly for 198 washing 211 Ribs, fracture of 668 Rice, dress goods, washing, with .... 217 flour 338 dextrin, in 337 whitewash, in 280 laces, in starching 230 milk. Invalids, for 671 paste 339 making 339 spice mill, cleaning 137 water, starch, instead ot 225 whitewash, in 279-280 woolens, for washing 217 Rings, blotting-pad 660 curtain 48 old rubber, use for 660 Rinsing 203 clothes 203 laundry 202 tablecloths 208 water, starch in 208 Ripping 248 River water, drinking, for 114 Rivets, cement for mending 360 Roaches, trapping 312 Road dust, stonework, imitation ot . . 362 Rochelle salts, acid principle of 167 Rock candy 531 almond preparations, tor 466 freckles, for , 463 label mucilage, tor 340 oil (see petroleum) salt, freckles, for 463 lamps, preventing smoking 149 Rodent bites, poisoning from 665 Rods, sash curtains, for 46 Roller towels 136 Rolling table 76 Rolls, fruit 634 Roofing, asphalt used in 367 lead for 391 Roofs, cement for mending 347 tin, rust of, preventing 298 Room, cooling quickly 147 dining 73 effect of, improving 48 front 52 sewing 234 Rooms, carpeting, cost ot 615 clean, hoiy to 265 dark colors decrease size of 37 darkened, bacteria in 263 darkening 147 flowers and foliage for 37 heightening, ceiling, borders on edge of 38 landscape, for broadening .< 37 large figures decrease size of 37 living 51 size of, decreasing 43 sleeping 58 solid colors for enlarging 37 treatment of 36 vertical stripes heighten 37 Root, rhubarb, curing 1 608 Roots, gathering 609 Rope, clothesline of 219 Rose, a. la, soap 450 attar ot 477 preparation of 477 rose petals, from 477 geranium, oil, lavender water, for . . 481 Jar 478 leaves, pillows, for fancy 49 red, rouge, for 473 sachet, for 477 toilet powder, for ..,,.... 472 PAGB Rose leaves, toilet waters, for 480 oil of, sachet, tor 477 pastils 632 perfume 477 petals, attar of roses from 477 pink, mahogany furniture, for color- ing 378 rooms, for west 36 water 480 cold cream, for 470 lavender water, for 481 sunburn lotions, for 465 Rosemary, linen, for preserving 232 oil, perfumes, for 476 toilet water, for 481 toilet water, for 480 Roses, oil ot, extracting 478 lavender water, for 481 perfumes, for 476 Rosewood, linen, for preserving 232 Rosin 366 barrel paint, for 362 cement 343-344 electrotyping. In 404 fiy paper, for 323 furniture, for polishing 381 gilt frames, for mending 291 harness, tor 425 ink, for printing 432 in 426 leather, tor waterproofing 422 paper-hanger's paste, in 339 piaster-of-Paris cement, in 347 mold tor 435 resin cement, in 343 saponifying 197 sealing wax, for red 375 in 374 soap 196 making 197 soda, from 197 soft, cold process 197 soft soap, for 191 solder, in 394 varnish, in 372 nature of 366 wax, in grafting 344 Rotten stone, scouring with 141 wood, preparing, for polishing 379 Rouge, liquid 472 paste 472 powder 472 Routine, day's 123 Rubber boots, drying 421 cement 345 rubbers, for mending 421 chloroform, dissolved by 159 dress shield, gasoline, spoiled by ... 160 shields, garments, removal from .. 175 eraser, pencil marks, tor 165 hose, furs, for beating 307 men's garments, for 173 India, mixtures for 422 rings, old, use for 560 shellac cement for 343 sliver, discolors 144 tarnishes 433 stamp ink 431 turpentine, dissolved by 159 Rubbers, mending 421 Rubbing clothes 202-203 Ruflles, fluting iron for 226 Rugs, background for, filling as 42 care of 257 carpet, denim 42 cleaning 2'70 colors, briehtening 258 denim 42 domestic, recommended 42 drawn, making 44 dusting 251 726 INDEX PAGE Rugs, filling, from 42 floor coverings, earliest 41 goatskin, washing 270 laying 257 linoleum, with 40 matting, use o£ 44 moths, for avoiding 306 Oriental 42 care of 258 cleaning 270 recommended 42 patching 273 preferable 34 rag. making 44 use of 44 sheepskin, cleaning 273 Smyrna, repairing 273 stocking legs for 44 storing in summer 268 use of 41 Rule, six-inch 240 Rum and milk, invalids, for 671 aromatic vinegar, in 471 bay 500 Rushlights 109 Russian bath 445 Rust, grates, preventing, on 297 iron 164 citric acid, for 157 linen, on 168 marble, removal from 294 protection from 388 removal of 167 irons, prevention of 226 ironware, removal from 137 linen, removal from 168 metals, preservation from 298 nails, to preserve from 298 piano wires, prevention of 299 prevention of 297-298 -proof paint, iron, tor 388 steel, for 388 removal of 141, 299 small articles, removal from 299 stains 173 colored goods, on 173 steel knives, prevention of 141 protection from 388 stovepipes, protect from 297 stoves, prevention of 297 tinware, prevention of 138, 298 tools, protected from 334 varnish, prevention of 372 Rusting, needles, prevent from 238 nickel fittings, keep from 298 Rusty meat 692 Sachet powder, bedding, tor storing .. 268 powders 476 Sacks, fiour 47 Safety matches, making 436 razors 497 Saffron, gold lacquer, for 407 kid gloves, for '. ... 178 laces, for tinting 230 Sage, oil of, lavender water, for 481 Sal ammoniac, brass, in bronzing 401 for cleaning 300 tarnishing, preventing 293 burnt steel, for restoring 388 castings, for soldering 386 copper, in tinning 399 electrotypes, for 389 fires, for putting out 91 freckles, for 462 fur, removal of 138' Grecian gilding, for 410 Ink, for metal label 431 iron, for casehardening 385 shellac varnish, in 369 soldering liquid, in making 393 PAGE Sal ammoniac, steel, for tempering ... 387 washing fluid, in 206 soda, bleaching with 183 burners, for 102,149 drainpipes, tor draining 263 drip trays, washing 131 earthenware, cleaning 138 enameled ware, for 137 floors, for scouring 276 frying pan, tor 137 fur skins, tor tanning 416 gas range, cleaning 131 globes, tor cleaning 149 hard soap with 195 hard-wood floors, tor refinishing.. 255 laundry, in the 204 linoleum, renewing 41 machine grease, removal of 167 oven doors, cleaning 131 racks, for 131 paint, oil, thinning 360 petroleum stain on oak, removing 257 refrigerators, for 122 rust, for removing 299 sliver, discolored, for 143 sink spout, cleaning 145 sinks, for cleaning 75 soap, for increasing 194 soda lye, making from 188 soot, for removing 148 steel, tor tempering 387 stoves, tor cleaning 296 tins, for new 138 tinware, for 138 washing fluid, in 205-207 fluids with 206 powders, in 207 wax, removal of 257 volatile, carbonate of ammonia 158 smelling salts 158 Salads, diet, in 646 Salberg wash, vermin destroyer 310 Salsify, preserving 605 Salt bags, dishcloths, as 136 calicoes, tor 210 cambrics, for 208 candles, sputtering, preventing 10ft carpets, freshening faded 271 when sweeping 269 china, for cleaning 145 clinkers, removal of 12& coffeepots, for 139 color, for flxing 210 colored goods, on 157 silks, in washing 215 woolens, in washing 216 colors, brightening 175 for setting 208 comforters, for flxing colors of 218 common, green, for coloring bronze 401 properties of 187 copper ware, for 137, 139 dark colors, for fixing 210 dry, carpets, for 255 silver, discolored, for cleaning ... 143 fat, for graining 189 fireproof paint, for 361 fires, for putting out 88, 91 quickening 126 flannel, for bleaching 184 freezing, prevention of 220 gilding, for coloring 410 glassware, cleaning fine 140 handkerchiefs, for 208 hard soap, in 192 hearth, for making a 296 ink, for invisible 431 stains, removal ot 166 iron rust, removal of 164, 167 kerosene oil, improvement of 105 lawns, for 208 INDEX 727 FAQB) Salt, marble, tor cleaning 294 matting, for 258 cleaning 272 metals, in gilding 409 mildew, removal of 157, 164 from linen 168 mosquito bites, for curing 326 mud stains, for 173 muriatic acid, in 158 oilcloth, brigbtenlng 259 pipes, for thawing 263 prints, for cleaning ■. 291 rock, freckles, for 463 rugs, brightening colors of 258 for cleaning 267 sachet, for 477 shelves for 75-76 silk, tor bleaching 157, 172 silver, for purifying 413 soap making, in 187 soot, for removing 148 spirits of, books, for ink stains on.. 70 starch with 224 steel, for tempering 387 stone walks, for cleaning 295 stove, burning on 128 tea and coffee stains, for 164 wash, San Jose scale, against 331 -water bath 445 hands, for moist 453 soap 450 whitewash, in 279-280 wicker furniture, for cleaning 289 woolen shawls, for washing 217 zinc, tor cleaning 299 Saltpeter, bonfires, for 106 chemical soap, in 162 cleansing mixture 161 coarse paint, tor cleaning 278 copper, for whitening 390 fur skins, for tanning 416 gilding, for coloring 410 gold plating, in 405 grease spots, removal of 167 hides, tor tanning 416 iron, for casehardening 385 steel, for tempering 387 tallow, tor clarifying 107 washing fluid, in 206 water, for clarifying 116 wicks, for candle 107 Salts, properties of 187 smelling 479 tainting, for 651 of copper, bronze, for dark shades of 402 of lemon 156 application of 156 cream of tartar in 158 grass stains, for 163 ink, books, removal from 70 linen, removal from 168 iron rust, for 164 mold, removal from linen 168 nature of 158 salts of sorrel in 158 tea and coffee stains, for 164 turpentine, mixing with 159 wine stains, removal of 169 of sorrel 156 of tartar, cloth, for silvering 414 regilding, for 412 washing fluids, in 207 Sand, boots, tor drying 421 dry, scouring soap, for 198 Alters, tor 117 flne, lime paint, tor 361 tins, scouring 138 grease, floors, removal from 277 hands, tor softening the 453 iron, for welding 386 lanterns, in Chinese 105 PAGE Sand, marble, tor polishing 295 oilcloth, under 40 plaster cracks, repairing 281 of Paris, mold for 436 rat holes, for 318 rust, prevention of 141 shoes, for drying 418 soap 198, 450 burners, tor polishing 149 enameled ware, for 137 scale, steel, removal from 387 spirit varnish, for making 369 steel, tor rust-proofing 388 stone work, tor imitating 362 tinning, when 393 whitewash, in 280 wood floors, for cleaning 275 woolen cloth, for dry-cleaning 177 Sandalwood soap 460 test for 476 toilet powder, for 472 Sandarao 366 lacquer, tor 407 in 370 varnish 371-373 for hard shellac 370 hardness, for imparting 369 nature of 36S Sandpaper, fruit stains, removal of . . . 70 furniture, tor smoothing 380 Ironing board, on 226 ivory, tor polishing 434 kettles, for 137 making 337 matches, for 130 pencil sharpener, for 72 rough wall, tor 282 rust, for removing 299 stove, removing what adheres to . . . 128 wood, preparation of, for polishing. . 379 Sandwiches, egg, invalids, tor 667 raw-beef 668 San JosS scale, emulsion for 329 lime sulphur salt for 327 wash against 331 spraying for 329 Santal wood, sachet, for 47T Saplings, white oak, boilers, for cleaning 264 Saponification, nature of 187 Sash curtains 46 windows, for broad 47 Sashes, window, lubrication of 283 painting 355 rattling, prevention of 286 supporting 28S Sassafras, fleas, on dogs, for 316 flies, preventive against 322 linen, for preserving 232 Sateen, black, ironing 228 Satin, cleaning 172 farmer's, ironing 22S gilding 411 washing 216 Satins, gilding 411 Saucepan, gas range, for 132 Sauerkraut 606 Sausage, cooked, preserving 699 diet, in 646 making 696 meat, grinding 597 improvement of 697 mixed 593 Sausages, intestine cases tor 596 preparation of 697 seasoning for 696 Sawdust, boxwood, jewelry, for stor- ing 433 glue size, with 378 Ice box, -for 121 houses, tor 120 728 INDEX PAGE Sawdust, kindling, as 127 oilcloth, under 40 shoe trees, for 419 Saws, workroom, in the 336 Scale, steel, removal from 387 Scales, druggist's, toilet preparations, for 461 Scalp, bleeding of 655 Scarfs, bureau 67 Scarlet cloth, cleaning 177 fixing 211 muriate of tin for 394 napkins, fixing color of 211 Scars 440 removal of 440 Scissors 239 buttonhole 239 cuticle 456 cutting 239 embroidery 239 kinds of 239 long-bladed 239 picking up 238 sharpening 239 silencing noisy 239 waists, for cutting 239 wicks, trimming 148 Scorch, preventing 231 removal of 231 Scouring mixtures 162 soap 197 Scrapbooks 71 paste for 339 Scrap bags, sewing room, for 237 Scratches, furniture, removal of 288 treatment of 655 Screen, fire, draughts, prevention of. . 61 light, sick room, in 664 range fires, banking 127 register, for 251 smoke, preventing, with 88 Screens '. 48 burlap for 49 grass cloth for 49 leather for 49 mending 322 mosquito 325 Screw hooks, ironing board, for 227 Screws 336 driving 336 loosening 336 Scrim, face cloth, for a 447 curtains, for 45 dishcloth, as 136 glass, wiping 141 Scrofula, iodine soap for 451 Scrubbing floors, washing fluid for . . 205 washing powders for 207 Sea bath 444 salt, bath, for the 445 water stains, ammonia for 158 stains, silk, on 172 Sealing wax 374 black 375 blue 375 cement, for 344 cheap 374 china, for 343 coloring 374-375 electrotyping. In 404 gold 375 green 376 marble 375 perfuming 376 polishing 375 red, best, to make 374 shellac in 366 soft 375 varnish from 372 white 375 yellow 375 PAGE Seasonings, shelf for 76 Seed lac 366 lacquer, for 407 varnish, nature of 366 measuring 620 potatoes, scab, prevention of, on 329 Set kettle, soap making, in 187 Sewage, drains or furrows, distributed by 113 gas, test for 59 pipe, water supply for 112 Sewing bags 237 day 234 machine, care of 235 chain stitch 248 crazy quilt, stitching 66 hemstitching on 248 kerosene, cleaning with 236 linen, for marking 232 oiling 236 rag carpet, for mending 269 stockings, darning on 244 troubles 236 use and care of 235 room, the 234 bureau in 235 conveniences 236 skylight in 234 table, handy 236 kitchen, for 134 sewing room, in 236 Shades 45-97 gas, light, loss of, from 97 paint, of 364 rooms, for darkening 147 sick room, for the 664 window 47 blowing of, preventing 47 hanging 47 renewing 47 substitute for 47 Shallot, vinegar 570 Shampoo, hair, dry 487 mixtures, application of 487 Shampoos, compounding 487 Shams, iron wire for 47 Sharpener, pencil 72 Shaving 497 cream, compounding 499 creams 499 Lewis's toilet water for 499 Shavings, boxwood, gilt ornaments, for storing 290 Shawls, knitted, washing 127, 217 woolen, washing 217 Sheathing, ship, copper for 389 Sheepskin rugs, cleaning 273 stoves, for polishing 129 Sheepskins, tanning 417 Sheet, curtains, for stretching 214 lead 392 preparation of 392 music, care of 54 rubber, plate scraper of 133 Sheeting, brown, bleaching 183 cotton for 64 linen for 64 unbleached, for 64 ticks, for pillow 50 unbleached, bedroom curtains, for. . 46 Sheets 64 cotton, storing 231 hanging out 220 linen, bleached 63 making 64 old. Ironing boards, for 227 renewal of 64 sick room, for 663 Shelf, kitchen, for 133 Shellac 366 alcohol, cutting with 381-382 INDEX 729 PAGE Shellac, blackboards. In paint for 362 blacking, for 424 cement, china, tor 343 elass, tor 343 metal, tor labeling on 343 rubber, tor 343 coloring 370 electrotyping. In 404 French polish, tor 378 tor finishing 380 gold lacquer, tor 407 ink, in marking 428 lac varnish, in 368 paint, dryer tor 360 resin cement, in 343 rubber cement, tor 345 sandarac varnish, in 371 sealing wax, tor red 375 size, paper hanging, tor 281 varnish 369-373 knots, for killing 365-365 making 369 molding, in regllding 412 nature of 366 shoes, for waterproofing 422 stained floors, for 275 whitewashed wall, tor 283 wood filler, as 255 Shells, gilding 411 oyster, tea kettle, in the 115 silvering 414 Shelves, closet with 234 library 68 pantry 76 covering 76 range 76 sewing-room closet, in 234 swinging, cellar, tor 263 Shields, rubber dress, garments, re- moval from 175 Shingling, cost of 614 Ships, sheathing for 390 nature of 395 Shirt bosoms, ribbed iron for 226 starching 225 waists, dry-cleaning 167 Shirts, ironing 228-229 woolen, drying 221 Shoe box, hooks and eyes, for 234 boxes, tape, for 234 whalebones, for 235 cleaner 419 pocket, overshoes, for 421 polish, denatured alcohol, use of, tor 110 strings 420 care of 420 Shoemakers, cement for 346 Shoes, care of 418-419 cleaner 419 cleaning 419 creaking, stopping 419 damp, drying 418 drying 418 house, mending 420 nails in 420 oiling 421 patches on 346 preservation of 418 tan, polishing 420 tight 419 Shopping list 235 library desk, in the 69 preparation of 231 Shot, bottles, cleaning 140 lead for 391 Shoulder blade, fracture of 658 Shovel, kitchen sink, for 134 Show-card inks 430 Shower bath, homemade 443 Sick room, conveniences tor 662 the 663 FAQB Sick room, ventilation of 662 Sieve, cleaning 138 Silk, acid stains, removal from 172 animal fiber 163 black, cleaning 171 black stocking, tor darning 244 bleaching 157-184 china, washing 215 cleaning 170 preparation for 169 cleansing mixtures tor 171 cutting 249 delicacy of 163 dresses, mending 242 embroidery 248 fine, soap, for 198 gasoline, cleaning with 160-170 grease, removing from 170 moths teed on 304 oiled, mending, tor 345 oxalic acid, application of 156 packing 309 paint, removing from 171 potato, cleaning, with 170 quilts, pieces, for 65 renovating 246 sea-water stains, removal from 172 shivering 413 stockings, washing 215 storing 310 tar, removal of 171 tartaric acid for 158 trimmings, stiffening for 245 violet, acid stains, removal from.,.. 172 wall covering, as 38 waste, uses for 242 wax, removal of, from 171 white, bleaching 172 cleaning 172 washing 215 wrinkles, removal of, from 229 yellowed, bleaching 16T Silkatine, darning, tor 244. Silkoline curtains for bedroom 46 Silks 158 colored, ironing 229 stains, removal of, from 172 starching 2231 washing 215 doing up 229 gilding 411 ironing 215, 228-229 laundering 214 sewing, box for 234 soap jelly for 198 storing 230 Silver bronze 397 pure 402; chain, cleaning 433 cleaning 413 cleansers 144 cloth 413 coin, English 642 United States 641 I compounds of 412i counterfeit, TJ. S. mint test tor 413 discolored, cleaning 143 dishcloths tor 136 egg stains, removal from 144 fish, books, in 69 gilding on 410 glass globes 414 gold plating 405 Imitation, nature of 396 ink 430 iron, electroplating on 406 jewelry 412 lace, cleaning 173 leaf, bronze, for silver 402 fineness of 412 iron, tor plating 406 730 INDEX PAGE Silver leaf, knots, for killing 365 shells, for silvering 414 nature of 412 nitrate of, ink. Indelible, in 165 tor invisible 431 ornaments, cleaning 290 packing 142 plating, 'solution for 404 polishers, tablecloths, old, from 233 polishing 143 purifying 413 seals, cleaning 145 shells ; 414 solder 394, 413 stains, removal of, from 143 sterling 412 storing 142 tarnished, boiling 144 polishing 144 test for 405 tree 413 washing 133-143 Silvering 413 amalgam for 384 metals 413 Silverware, care of 142 pockets 142-143 yellow soap for 199 Simplicity, wisdom of 35 Sink, dishwashing, for 133 drain 113 homemade 146 odors of 135 spout, disinfecting 145 stopped up 145 Sinks, bacteria in 253 care of 145 cleaning 145 dry 146 iron, care of 146 kitchen 74 house, not put against wall of 113 water supply for 112 lead for lining 391 painted, cleaning 146 Sirup, almond paste, in 469 candied sweetmeats, for 520 candles 530 canning, for 553 crystals, for 520 molds, for 520 preserving, for 553 testing 518 Size, gliding on china, for 410 glass, for 410 isinglass 374 paper hanging, tor 281 Sizes of coal 81 small, coal, to use 82 Skates, rust, protecting from 298 Skeleton key 286 Skimmed milk, skin, for the 463 Skin, anatomy of 438 diseases of the 439 iodine soap for 451 tar soap for 451 i hardening the 438 milk for the 463 pores of the 441 relaxed, ointment for 440 stains, removal, from 451 the, color of 438 white, soap for making 451 Skins, fur, tanning 416 Skirt bindings 243 board, sewing room. In 236 cotton dress, cleaning 168 divided, house cleaning, for 261 dry-cleaning white 167 lengthening a 245 plaited, packing , 302 PAGE Skirts, cleaning 175 cotton dress, cleaning 168 lengthening 245 mending 243 starching 225 Skylight, fire escape, as 91 Slacked lime, woody taste, removal of 136 Slate color, fixing 210 kitchen 77 Sleep, dreamless' 151 fresh air 645 hot nights, on 153 Inducing 152 nature of 58, 150 objects 58 preparation for 160 ventilation 645 Sleeping porch 61 porches, sanitariums, in 59 powders, effects, evil, of 152 rooms 58 pictures for 55 Sleeplessness, causes of 151 prevention of 153 Sleeve board, sewing room, in 236 protectors 136 old stockings as 136 Sleeves, making over 245 mending .- 243 puffy, puff iron for 226 Sling, arm, injured 647 Slip, invalids, for 669 Slippery-elm bark, animal oils, for preserving 377 tea, invalids, for 671 Small economies 77 Smalts, sealing wax, for blue 375 Smelling salts 479 carbonate of ammonia, a 158 Smoke, alcohol stove, none with 110 breathing of, preventing 92, 104 chimneys, preventing, in 87 consumption of 88 fires, kindling, without 88 lamp 104 preventing in chimneys 87 prevention of 88 stains, removal of 278 Smoked ham, storing 595 Smoking pork hams 595 Smoky chimney, curing a 87 Smyrna rug, repairing 273 Snake bite, treatment of 655 Snap, candy making, in 519 Snow water 115 drinking, for 115 Snuff, ants, for exterminating 319 crickets, for exterminating 313 Soaking garments 202 laundry 202 Soap 186 k la rose 450 almond 449 cold cream, for 470 arsenic 451 bark 197 men's clothes, for cleaning 175 Oriental rugs, for 25S bayberry 451 beef-gall 198 blankets, for washing 218 borax 449 camphor 460 carbolic-acid 451 Castile 198 teeth, for the 507 caustic soda lye, from 197 chemical 162 chlorine, with 451 cinnamon 450 citron ,,. 450 INDEX 731 PAOB Soap, corn meal 449 drawers, for lubricating 264 English bar 196 frangipani 450 furniture 288 gloves, wash leather, for 178 hard, caustic soap, from 195 improving 192 ingredients for 192 nature of 187 sal soda with 195 softening 191 white, bedspreads, in washing .... 218 canvas shoes, for cleaning 420 furniture, for polishing 381 soap jelly, for 208 washing powder, in 207 yellow, lubricator, as wood 378 honey 449 importance of 186 increasing 194 iodine 451 ironware, tor 137 jelly 208 calcimine, in 280 gutta-percha, for cleaning 296 laces, for 212 making 198 mattresses, for cleaning 267 silk, for washing 171, 215 woolen goods, for 217 juniper tar 451 kid, white, for 420 leaks, for stopping 264 mackintosh, white, cleaning 245 making 186 domestic art of 186 kettle for 133 materials for 187 utensils for 187 marine 198, 450 Marseilles 198 Masguere's acid 19S materials for 188 medicated 450 mildew, for 159 musk 450 naphtha, feathers, for cleaning ..... 179 oatmeal 449 odds and ends 198 packing 193 potash, hard 193 preservation of 193 properties of 186 rosin, making 196-197 soda, from 197 rugs, for cleaning 270 salt-water 450 sand 198, 450 sandalwood 450 scouring 197 scraps 198 shaker, dishwashing, for 134, 199 soft 191 boiling process 190-191 brushes, for cleaning 360 cold process 189 leather, for waterproofing 422 nature of 187 recipes for 190 rosin, cold process 19" toilet, for 449 washing fluids, in 207 yellow hard soap, from 194 stains, for 155 starch with 224 stove polish, in 128 sulphur ■*B1 test V 186, 452 testing 10? tonquin 450 PAGE Soap, transparent 451 uses of 199 water, for testing 204 whale-oil 19T San Jos# scale, for 330 white, clotheslines, for washing — 219 feathers, for cleaning 179 furs, for cleaning 180 white goods, for bleaching 185 Windsor 449 wood floors, for cleaning 275 yellow, Britannia ware, cleaning .... 145 common 196 grates, for cleaning 297 bard, soft soap, from 194 ink, for printing 432 mildew, preservation against 164 oilcloth, for washing 258 rosin, use of, in 366 scouring mixture, in 162 window sashes, for lubricating ... 286 Soapiue, washing powder 207 Soaps 448 castor-oil ..1 198 hard potash 193 palm-oil 198 perfumed 448 soda 194 alkaline 195 soft soda, alkaline 196 special 197 toilet 448 vegetable oil 198 Soapstones, beds, warming 150 Soapsuds, broom, rinsing in 251 brushes, for cleaning 360 cleansing 204 embroideries, for washing 211 hot, fleas, for destroying 314 linoleum, renewal of 41 poisoning, antidote for 649 silk, for bleaching 184 Soda, arsenlte of, Bordeaux mixture, for 330 baking, bric-a-brac, for cleaning ... 292 burners, for 149 china, cleaning 145 coarse paint, for cleaning 278 ink, for 429 in marking 428 insect bites, for 655 moth patches, for 440 poison, antidote for 649 bicarbonate of, medicine case, in ... 649 bisulphate of, flannel, for bleaching 184 calclmated, floors, for scouring 276 carbonic-acid gas, from 89 caustic, hard soap from 195 soap, for 186-188 chemical soap, in 162 cooking, feathers, for purifying 262 crystals, ink, for indelible 429 cut glass, cleaning 140 enameled ware, for 137 flies, for recuttlng 336 flres, for putting out 91 hard water, softening 115, 204 hearth, cleaning the 128 hyposulphite of, acids, neutralizing 156 iodine stains, removal of 165 linen, for bleaching 182 sheeting, for bleaching 18S ink, leather, removal from 418 lye, cautions in use of 265 hard water, for softening 204 iron kettles, for 137 sal soda, to make from 188 tallow, for clarifying lOT lyes, laundry, in the 204 nickel, for cleaning 129 poisoning from 650 732 INDEX PAGE Soda, rosin soap trom 197 scouring with 141 alkaline 195-196 stiver, stained, for 143 soaps 194 starch with 225 stove, greasy, washing 128 tungstate of, fires, prevention of 92 garments, flreproofing 92 washing, windows, for cleaning 285 water, for clarifying 116 Soft coal, stove polish, in 128 rosin soap, cold process 197 sealing wax 375 soap 189-191 boiling process 191 cold process 190 recipes for 190 toilet, for 449 yellow hard soap from 194 zinc, for cleaning 299 water, laundry, for 203 Solder, aluminum 397 coarse 393 common, tin, for 393 fine 393 gold 409 hard 394 iron, workroom, in the 335 making 394 platinum 399 silver 413 soft 393 tinware, tor mending 393 using 394 zinc 396 Soldering liquid, making 393 Solid colors, carpets, in 43 fixing, dark 210 light 210 living rooms, for 37 Solton, cast iron, for welding 386 Soluble glass, bathroom walls, for 67 fabric, flreproofing 93 floors, for 42 kitchen walls, for 74 paints 362 preservation of 351 sand soaps, in 198 white cement, for 351 Solvents, spots and stains, for 155 Soot, breathing 104 carpets, removal of, from 272 chimneys, cleaning, from 88 preventing, in 87 denatured alcohol, none from 110 enameled ware, removal of, from . . . 137 Illuminating gas, in 95 iron kettles, loosening, from 137 ironware, preventing, from burning on 137 lamps, in 104 removal of 148 salt, removal of, with 148 wounds, removal of, from 648 Soothing sirups, poisoning from 650 Sorrel, salts of 156 Sorting pieces 65 comforters, for 65 SoufiSe, candy-making, in 519 Soup, tomatoes, preserving, for 586 Spalding's liquid glue 342 Spanish peppers 576 Spatula, toilet preparations, for 461 Special soaps 197 Specific gravity 641 Spelter, nature of 395 Sperm oil, nature of 377 Spermaceti, almond lotions, in 466 paste, in 469 chapped lips, for 473 PAGE Spermaceti, cold cream, tor 470 hands, tor the 453 for chapped 455 mosquito bites, tor curing 326 nature of 377 starch, with 224 test lor 475 Spice mill, cleaning 137 Spiced pickle 573 Spices, cans, in baking-powder 78 linen, for preserving 232 shelves lor 75 Spider stings, remedy tor 655 Spinach leaves, toilet preparations tor 461 Spirit varnish 369 Spirits, hot, application of 661 of hartshorn, see ammonia 158 Splint, bones, for broken 658 Splinter wound 648 Splinters, nails, under the 456, 648 Splints, arm fracture, for 658 medicine case, In 649 sprains, for 653 Sponge bath, cold 444 iron, filters, in 118 lamp chimneys, for cleaning 148 sour, cleaning a 448 spots, for 156 stains, for 156 toilet 447 Spoon, baking, rack lor 76 Spoons, cooking, rack for 75 measurement by 630 Spores, dust, in 252 Spots, grease 167-173 ink, tartaric acid for 157 kinds of 163 removal of 174 solvents tor 155 treatment ot 155 utensils tor 156 white 176 black goods, on 176 Sprains, linseed oil lor 454 treating 653 Sprayers, compressed-air, insect pests, for 327 Spraying, Bordeaux mixture for 327 outfit, pests, for farm 326 recipes for 327 stock solution 328 Spring house cleaning 260 water 114 drinking, for 114 Springs, bed 62 overfiow, measuring the 112 steel, tempering 387 water supply for 112 Sprinkling clothes 222 . object of 222 utensils lor 222 Sprouting, potatoes, keeping, Irom ... 606 Squab, broiled, invalids, lor 667 Square measure 614 Squares, cocoanut 635 Squashes, keeping 605 "Squeegee," pictures, translerring 57 Stain, floors, for 42 Stained floors, cleaning 275 varnish for 275 glass, imitation ot 434 Stains, acid 167 linen, on 168 removal of 156-158 alkali 172 animal fibers, removal of, from 169 berry, treatment of 164 brown earthenware, removal of, trom 139 cod liver oil 167 coffee 163 INDEX PAQB Stains, colored silks, removal of, from 172 dry, soaking for 165 eradication of 165 floor 274 fresh, absorbents for 156 milk for 167 fruit 173 oxalic acid for 157 removal of 70 gloves, removal of, from 178 gasoline, gypsum for 161 grass 163-167 bands, to remove, from 462 ink 70, 173 books, on 70 colored goods, on 167 furniture, to remove, from 288 linen, on 166 removal of 432 treatment of 165 Iodine 166 iron 70 kinds of 163 laundry, removal of, from 155 linen, removal of, from 156 match, removal of 278 matting, removal of, from 272 mud 167-173 nitrate of silver 167 nitric acid 167 nutgall 165 oil 173 paint 165 pigment for 274 red rust, muriatic acid, removal of 158 wine 167 removal of 164-166 rust 173 silver, removal of, from 143 smoke, removing 273 soap for 165 solvents for 165 stubborn, buttermilk for 167 bands, removal of, from 453 removal of 453 tannin 167 tea 163 treatment of 165 utensils for 166 vaseline, removal of 164 vegetable, oxalic acid for 167 wax 164-173 alcohol for 164 white linen or cotton, on 166 wine 1'3 yellow, linen, on 168 Stair carpets 273 padding for 273 preventing wear of 269 coverings, Venetian carpet for 40 Stairs, sweeping the 260 Stairways 39 dado, protected by 39 paper for 39 Stamp, rubber, ink 431 Stamped linen, duplication of 232 outfit, linen, for 232 patterns, homemade 247 Standard time 639 Standards, origin of 611-623 Stand, umbrella 60 Starch, absorbent, as an 169 additions to 224 application of 225 blood stains, removal of 169 bluing in 222 borax, with 224 brass, for cleaning 293 inlaid work, for cleaning 291 chemical soap, in 162 colored clothes 226 PAGE Starch, cooked 223 dextrin, in 337 garments, fireproo&ng 92 grain, from 223 gum arable, with 224 ink stains, carpets, removal from... 271 lace curtains, for mending 46 lard, with 224 making 223 marble, oil stains, removal of, from 295 mattresses, stains, removal of, from 267 mildew, removal of 164 mucilage, in 340 potatoes, from 223 powder, hands, for the 455 powders. In toilet 471 preparation of '. 223 recipes, special, tor 224 salt, with 224 soap, with 224-225 soda, with 226 stearin, with 224 sugar, with 224 tea stains, removal of 168 uncooked 224 wash balls, for 460 wax, with 223 windows, for cleaning 286 woolens, for washing 217 Starching clothes 223 white dress goods 226 Steam, carpet beetles, tor destroying 311 heating system 82-83 hot, moths, for destroying 307 radiators, vacuum valve on 84 velvet, for restoring 245 Steaming, windows, preventing 285 Stearic acid 108 cold cream, for 470 fats, in animal 108 Stearin 108 fats, in animal 108 harness, for 425 sealing wax, for white 375 starch with 324 waxed floors, for polishing 256 Steel, aluminum for 397 annealation of 387 blue, staining 387 taking off from 387 bluing 38T burnt, restoring 388 casehardening 385 cement for 343 forks, rust, prevention of, on 141 gray, staining 387 ink for 431 instruments, lettering on 409 rust, preservation of, from 409 joints, soldering 386 knives, rust, prevention of, on 141 scouring 141 washing 141 leather, fastening, to 346 melting 387 nature of 384-385 nickel 397 nature of 39T painting, specifications for 368 polished 388 keeping 388 rust-proof paint for 388 rust, to protect, from 388 scale, to remove, from 387 softening 385 solder 394 soldering 386 springs, tempering 387 staining 387 table knives 299 rust, preventing, from 299 734 INDEX PAGE Steel, temper of, drawing 385 tempering 385-387 tougbening 388 wool, waxed floors, tor 256 work, cement for 348 painting, specifications for 358 Stencil, border, as 38 decorative border for 46 inlt, black 429 making 429 linen, for 429 Stepladder, slipping, preventing, from 266 Steps, marble, cleaning 295 Sterilization of dust 253 Sterilizing fruit jars 663 milk 672 Sterling money 642 silver 412 Stick-lac 366 varnisb, nature of 366 Stills, perfumes, for making 479 Stimulants, sleeplessness, cause of ... 162 Stipple wall painting 359 Stitch, crochet, darning with 244 Stock solution, spraying, for 326 Stockings, cotton, crazy quilt, pieces for 66 lamp wicks, for 149 crochet needle, mending with 244 fancy-colored thread for i 244 mending 243 by hand 244 old, disposition of 264 quilts, old, for 65 rugs, for 44 sewing machine, darning, on 244 Bilk, crazy quilts, pieces for 66 washing 216 sleeve protectors, as 136 stove holders, for 129 woolen, crazy quilts, pieces tor .... 66 darning 244 Stone, cement for 347 color, fixing 210 rotten, blackboards, in paint, for... 361 varnish, for finishing 365 varnish 372 walks, cleaning 295 Stonework, cleaning 292 cost of 619 imitating 362 measuring 619 Stool bath 445 kitchen, for 134 Stopper, glass 292 loosening 292 Storax, honey water, in 464 rubber cement, tor 345 sealing wax, in 374 for perfuming 376 tincture of, almond creams, in 467 Store silks 230 storeroom 73-79 cellar as , 79 conveniences for 73 Storing table leaves 73 Stove, asbestos, protection of 130 blacking 128 yellow soap, with 199 cook, clean, keeping 128 Franklin 86 heat, economy of 86 holders 129 pipe, drum radiator on the 86 pipes, asbestos, protection of 130 soda, washing, with 128 Stov,es 110 asphaltum varnish for 372 care of 128 castiron, tempering 386 cement tor lining 348 cleaning 128, 296 PAGE Stoves, closed 85 gas 86 lighting 132 gasoline 86 kitchen, cleaning 296 new, care of 129 polishing 128-129 rust, prevention of 297 protecting from 297-298 Strainer, rack tor 76 Straw, bleaching 184 javelle water tor 160 braid, bleaching 184 cleaning 179 color, paint, mixing 364 goods, bleaching 184 hats, cleaning 180 sizing 181 matting 44 mattresses 62 pillows, tor fancy 49 Strawberry bonbons, cocoanut 627 caramels 537 Stretcher, curtain 214 Strop, razor 498 order, keeping, in 498 Strops, razor, preparations tor 498 Strychnine, poisoning from 651 rats, for 315 Stubborn stains, buttermilk tor 157 Stucco, painting, specifications for ... 357 work, polishing 295 Student lamps 104 alcohol 110 Stunning, treatment of 652 Style, antique 35 Stylographic ink 165 carpets, removal of, from 271 Suede, black, ink, black, for 178 Suet, almond paste, in 469 Circassian cream, in 473 cold cream, tor 470 food chopper for 137 gas range, for 131 leather, for waterproofing 422 sealing wax, tor red 375 Sugar, almond preparations, in 466 articles, for cracked ; 138 bags, dishcloths, as 136 blacking, liquid, for 424 boiling 518 candy 517-530 candying 518 clarification of 518 cube, rose water, for 480 fiavoring 642 flour paste, with 339 freckles, for 462 ink, in 427 laces, in starching 230 leather, tor blacking 417 loaf, leather, in waterproofing 423 of lead, fires, for putting out 91 flexible varnish, in 368 nature of 392 solid colors, for fixing 210 paste blacking, for 424 portable glue, in 342 silks, in washing 215 starch with 224 stove polish, in 129 tea stains, for removal of 168 vinegar 665 water, ink, for invisible 430 whitewash, in 279 Sugared almonds 63Bi Sulphate of alumina, water, for clari- fying lia aluminum, label mucilage, in 340 copper, electroplating, in 440 iron, gilding, for 410 INDEX 735 PAGE Sulphate of iron, water, for clarifying 116 potash, books, for iron stains on 70 potassium, plaster of Paris, with 435 soda, hard, soap, for 192 zinc, blackheads, tor 439 leather, for tanning 415 Sulphur, ants, for exterminating 319 bonfires, for 106 books, for grease or oil on 70 carpet beetles, for destroying 311 cellars, for disinfecting 263 cockroaches, for exterminating 311 combustion, in 123 fires, for putting out 88 flowers of, woolen goods, for bleaching 183 silk, for bleaching 172 akin, for the 463 hands, stains, removal of, from 453 iron, for softening 335 jewelry, tarnishes 433 matches, tor making 437 mildew, plants, for removal of, from 329 moths, for destroying 307 picture frames, for gilt 290 red wine, for removal of 167 rosin cement, in 344 rust, for removing 299 silver, for discolored 144 soap .' 450—451 spraying, for 329 straw bats, for cleaning 180 turpentine, dissolved by 159 wash, San Jos6 scale, tor 331 waterproof varnish, in : 368 woolen goods, for bleaching 183 Sulphureted hydrogen, test for 59 silver, enemy of 142 Sulphuric acid, alabaster, stains, for removal of, from 436 animal matter, test for 115 attar of rose, test for 475 blacking, liquid, for 424 bleaching, for 182 carbonic-acid gas, from 89 eleotrotyping, in 403 feathers, for bleaching 184 flies, in recutting 337 gray, steel, for staining 387 hands, stains, for removal of, from 453 Ink, in 426-427 tor invisible 431 furniture, removal of, from 288 stains, for removing 433 ivory, for etching on 435 kerosene oil, for purifying 102 leaks, for stopping 264 leather, for black 417 medicine stains, for removal of . . . 144 mucilage, tor preserving 341 muriatic acid, in 158 musty bottles, sweetening 141 nails, for whitening the 456 paste blacking, for 423 poisoning from 649 putty, for removal of 279 shoes, in waterproofing 422 silver, discolored, for cleaning 143 stearin, making 108 stone varnish, in 372 straw braid, tor bleaching 184 test for 567 tinning, for 393 use of 453 vegetable matter, test for 115 vegetable oils, for purifying 376 water, for clarifying 116 wax, for removing 257 wood, for flreprooflng 93 ether, chemical soap, in 162 kid gloves, for cleaning 179 turpentine, for mixing with 169 PAGB Sulphurous acid, bleaching, tor 183 gas, bedbugs, for exterminating... 313 fleas, for destroying 314 fruit stains, for removal of 70 ether, paint dissolved by 164 Sumac, tannin in 416 Summer complaint, children, of 672 homes, effects of 41 Sun admitted freely 61 burns from 656 windows, keeping out of 285 Sunburn, lotions for 465 Sunfish, mosquitoes, for destroying... 325 Sunlight, dust, sterilization of 253 germs, kills 252 sick room, in 663 Sunstroke, shock from 652 treating 647 Superficial measure 614 Superfiuous hair 495 Surface, measures of 643 Surgery, silver nitrate used in 412 Surveyor's measure 615 Swab, dishwashing, for 133-134 Swan's-down, cleaning 180 washing 180 Sweat glands, skin, in the 438 Sweep carpets, to 269 how to 250 Sweeper, carpet 2B0 care of 252 Sweeping 251 broom, with a 250 day 250 Friday as 250 gas range, cover 131 registers closed while 84 stairs 250 tea leaves for 133 utensils tor 250 Sweet almond lozenges 540 breads, broiled, invalids, for 667 clover, flies, preventive against 322 cucumbers 574 marjoram, linen, for preserving 232 melons} pickling 574 oil, blacking, liquid, for 424 brass furniture, for cleaning 291 Britannia ware, cleaning 145 bronzes, tor cleaning 291 fly paper, for 323 freckle lotion, in 463 furniture, for cleaning 287 grates, for cleaning 297 leather, for black 417 paste blacking, for 423 patent leather, for 424 shoes, for squeaking 420 in waterproofing 422 silver seals, for cleaning 145 soap, for soft 449 steel fittings, for cleaning 128 for keeping polished 388 knives, for preventing rust on . . 141 stoppers, removal of 292 woodwork, for polishing 278 pickles : 574 potatoes, storing 606 Swiss, dotted, curtains, for 45 valances 63 Sympathetic ink 430 System, habits of 68 hot-air 84 ideal 84 Systems, heating 81-82 illumination, use of 94 lighting, cost of 94 Table, adjustable, sick room, for the 662 asbestos, protection of 130i candles for 109 736 INDEX PAGE Table, center 53 covers, woolen, washing 217 dishwashing, tor 133 dressing 67 folding, dishwashing, for 133 hinged, kitchen, tor the 134 kitchen 75 homemade 75 library, for 68 knives, steel, rust, for preventing, on 299 leaves, storing 73 library, for 68 linen, hemming 232 mending 240-241 stains, removal of 168 wear, preventing 229 oilcloths, cleaning 258 pad 73 rolling 76 sewing, handy 236 small, sick room, tor 664 tea 53 work 236 Tablecloth, asbestos, protection of 130 economics 233 Tablecloths, folding 229 hanging out 220 ironing 229 new, buying, when 233 old stains on 169 rinsing 208-229 Tables, preparations, tor toilet 462 Taboret 53 Tacks, bottles, for cleaning 140 Taffeta, linen, curtains, for 45 Tatty 517 candy pulls, tor 527 molasses 528 pull, a 628 Tainted meat, sweetening 590 Talc, gold colored, sealing wax, for... 375 Talcum powder, kid gloves, polishing 179 powders. In toilet 471 Tallow, absorbent, as an 159 axle grease, for 378 candles from 107 clarification of 107 floors, wax, for polishing 256 ink, gloves, removal from 179 linen, removing from 167 removal of 166 iron, tor drawing temper ot 385 kid boots, for 420 kindling, as 127 lubricator, as a 377 mutton, candles, for 107 plaster of Paris, mold tor 435 sealing wax, for red 375 stearin, making 108 steel, for rust-prooflng 388 tar varnish, in 372 varnish. In 372 wax, in grafting 344 Tan bark, ice houses, for 120 lotions for 465 rooms, toning down for south 36 shoes, darkening 421 polishing 420 Tanks, cast-iron, cement for 348 cement for 347 kerosene, tor mosquitoes 325 measurements ot 623 Tannate of iron, Ink, in 426 Tannic acid, banana peel. In 420 hands, for moist 452 Ink, in 426-427 Tannin, leather cement, in 360 nature of 416 oil, paste blacking, tor 424 stains 167 PAOB Tannin stains, javelle water, removal of 167 Tanning, art of 415 extracts 415 leather, materials for 415 Tape hangers, towels, for 136 measure, convenient 240 renovating 240 shoe boxes for 234 stove holders, for 130 Tapestry brussels carpet 39 carpets, wearing qualities 43 Tapioca, invalids, for 668 Tar, casks, for 262 colored goods, on 173 kindling, as 127 leaks, for stopping 264 paint. In 353 paper, bedding, for storing 309 moths, for repelling 306 pitch, dampness, for preventing 284 rectified, nails, for toughening 456 removal of 164 silk, removal from 171 soap 451 soft, rat holes, for 316 stains 173 steel, for toughening 388 varnish 372 Tarnished silver, boiling 144 polishing 144 Tartar, cream ot 156 acid principle of 167 emetic, nature of 398 poisoning from 650 tartaric acid used as 167 oil, sunburn lotions, in 465 of, almond creams, in 467 silvering, for 413 teeth, on the 504 Tartaric acid, alkali stains, removal of 172 application of 158 books, for cleaning 70 grass stains, for 157,163 linen, removal from 167 Ink eraser, as 70 stains, carpets, removal from 271 colored goods, removal from... 167 nature of 157 poisoning from 649 solution, saturated, of 157-158 stains, removal of 156 tannin stains, removal of 167 uses of 157 Taste, decorating, good and bad, in... 34 pictures, good and bad, in 54 Tea, black silk, tor cleaning 171 cold, carpets, freshening faded 271 furniture, for cleaning 287, 382 white paint, for cleaning 278 fiy paper, for 323 green, black lace, for sponging 213 laces, for tinting 230 leaves, carpets, when sweeping .... 269 dust, tor preventing 251 grate, for keeping clean 130 pillows, for fancy 49 sweeping, for 133 mirrors, for cleaning 286 sleeplessness, cause of 152 stains 163 linen, on 163,169 removal of 168 table 63 Teakettle 138 crust inside the 115 lime, avoiding iss oyster shell in the 115 Teapots, musty odor, prevention ot... 139 Teasel brush, cloth, for raising nap on 245 Teeth 602 INDEX 737 PAGB Teeth, amalgam, dentists', tor filling 614 artificial 513 bad 502 care of 504 children, of 603 examination of 647 filling, temporary, tor the 514 good 502 Infant's 503 permanent 504 care of 504 structure of the 503 tartar on the 504 whiten, to 607 Telephone systems, effects of 41 Temper, Iron, to draw from 385 steel, to draw from 385 withdrawing 3S5 Temperature, bath, of 443 measuring 641 sleep. In 150 Temple, bleeding of 655 Tents, waterproof, to 94 Terra cotta, rooms, for west 36 Test, soap, tor 186 Tetanus, germ of' 648 Textile fabrics, silvering 413 Thermometers, mercury for 398 Thermostat 83 Thigh, bleeding of 654 Thinners, paints, for 353 Thistle, cloth, for raising nap on 245 Thread, box for 234 breaking of, in sewing machine 236 candy making. In 519 care of 238 darning 244 gloves, for mending 243 waste, bags for 237 Threading needles 238 "Three-ply" carpet 39 Throat, examination of 647 ■ foreign bodies in 655 Thyme, linen, for preserving 232 oil of, lavender water, for 481 sachet, for 477 Ticking, dish towels, for 136 stove holders, for 130 Ticks, pillow 50 protecting 64 Tile, bathroom, for 67 sink drain, for 113 Tiles, wells, lining 114 Time, measurement of 637-638 -table, cooks' complete 631 Tin box, matches, for 130 cans 78 shelves tor 75 use of 78 ■ compounds of 393 crystallizing 395 filings 394 foil, damp walls, for 284 mirrors, tor 398 solder, In 394 glass globes, in silvering 414 gold lacquer for 407 grains, in 394 mouse holes, for 316 mucilage for 340 muriate of 394 nature of 393 nitrate of, yellow, for dyeing 395 oxide of 394 pans, mending 394 solder, mending without 394 plate 393 ink for 431 moir6 ipetalUque, ornamenting by 393 nature of 393 ornamenting 393 PAGE Tin plate, tinware, for mending 393 rfliCk • • • V6 sink lined"wlth"!'.!!!!!!!!!!!!!iiiii.. 146 solution, nature of 393 of, scarlet cloth, for cleaning 177 test tor 405 tree, making a 395 Tincture of iron, brass, for black dip- ping 401 Tinctures, preparation of 479 Tins, greasy, sal soda tor 138 new, preparing 138 scouring 138 Tint, bathroom, walls of 67 Tints, light, absorb 36i paints, of 364 Tinware 138 cement for 347 cleansing 138 mending : 393 new, protection of 138 rust, preventing from ; 138, 298 washing 133, 138 Tissue, mending 241 paper 77 furniture, for polishing 381 glassware, polishing 141 lamp chimneys, tor polishing 148 mirrors, tor cleaning 286 quilts, for 65 silver, protecting 142 uses of 77 rubber mending, carpets, for patch- ing 273 Toadstools, poisoning from 650 Toast, creamed, invalids, for 666 water, invalids, for 670 Toaster, rack for 76 Tobacco, mosquito bites, for curing. . 326 moths, for 305, 308 poisoning from 650 Toilet powders 471 preparations 458 bases of 459 commercial 482 homemade 446 mineral drugs in 460 recipes for the 458 soap, soft, for the 449 test for 452 soaps 448 sponge 447 the 438, 446 vinegar 471 water, Lewis's, shaving, for ..; 499 waters, perfumed 480-481 Tolu, tincture of, freckles, for 463 sunburn lotions, tor 465 Tomato catsup 582 ink, removal from linen 168 Tomatoes, canning 583 pickling 577 soup, preserving, tor 586 storing 605 Tongues, pickling 593 Tonics, hair 488-489 Tonquln soap 460i Tools, arrangement of 334 care of 334 chest of, workroom, for the 334 packing 302 rust, protected from 334 varnish for 369 transparent, tor 370 Toothache 511 fomentation cloth for 6e Pricking the top of a loaf with a fork before it is put in the oven tends to make it rise and bake evenly. Do not try setting bread over night either in midsummer or mid- winter. In cold weather bread is likely to be chilled, in summer it may sour. There is plenty of time to raise and bake bread in the daytime, when one can watch it and give the careful consideration it requires above any other cooking. If you live in a region where the water is very hard, boil it, and let it grow lukewarm before mixing with flour, for soft water is better than hard in the bread -making process. ' Flour is almost as sensitive to odors as is milk; therefore it should be kept in a perfectly clean, whole- some, dry place. Always raise the barrel off the floor, either on two strips of wood or on one of the handy little contrivances which will swing it out and in to a cupboard. Never use flour for anything without sift- ing it first — ^it may be perfectly free from any foreign substance and It may not. Water Bread. 4 cupfuls boiling water, 4 tablespoonfuls lard, 1 tablespoonful sugar, IJ teaspoonfuls salt, 1 yeast cake dissolved in J cupful lukewarm water, 3 quarts sifted flour. Put the lard, sugar, and salt in a bread raiser; pour on boiling water; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and 5 cupfuls flour; then stir until thoroughly mixed. Add re- maining flour, mix, and knead. Re- turn to bowl; let rise over night. In the morning cut down, knead, shape into loaves or biscuits, place in greased pans, having pans nearly half full. Cover, let raise again, and bake. Entire-Wheat Bread. 4 cupfuls scalded milk, i cupful brown sugar, IJ teaspoonfuls salt, 1 yeast cake, 9 cupfuls entire-wheat flour. Put sugar and salt in a bread raiser and pour the hot milk over them; when cool, add the flour and yeast cakfe, beat hard with a wooden spoon for five minutes, cover the pan and set in a warm place till the bat- ter doubles its bulk. . Beat it down, turn into greased bread pans, having each half full. Let the batter rise nearly to the top, then bake. Caraway Bread (German recipe). Follow the recipe for entire-wheat bread, substituting rye flour for en- tire-wheat flour and adding 2 table- spoonfuls sugar. Make the bread as directed at the first kneading, working in a tablespoonful of cara- way seeds. Shape into loaves, raise, and bake. BREAD 21 Graham Bread. 1 quart Graham flour, 1 quart white flour, 1 yeast cake, IJ teaspoonfuls salt, J cupful brown sugar, 1 quart milk. Scald the milk and pour it over the sugar and salt; when lukewarm, stir in the flour and the yeast, which has been dissolved in warm water. Beat hard and let it rise in the pan till spongy. This is u, dough which is not stiff enough to knead; it simply requires a thorough stirring and beat- ing. Put it into greased pans, raise, and oake in an oven which is hot at first, but cool during the later part of the baking process. This dough may be used to drop into greased gem pans and bake as mufSns. Kye Bread. 2 quarts rye flour, 1 quart wheat flour, 1 yeast cake, 3 pints warm water, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Sift the flour with the sugar and salt, stir in the warm water and dis- solved yeast. When thorouglily mixed, begin to work it with your hands; it will be sticky, but the dough must be kept very soft. When thoroughly beaten, pour it into well- buttered pans and set it in a warm place. Let it rise to twice its bulk and bake an hour in an oven which is a little slower than for white bread. Rub the crust over with butter to soften it as soon as it is taken from the oven. Cornmeal Bread. 2 cupfuls flour, f cupful cornmeal, 2 cupfuls milk, 3 cupfuls water, 1 teaspoon ful salt, 1 yeast cake. Put the milk and water in a dou- ble boiler, and let it get scalding hot; then stir in ,the cornmeal and allow it to cook slowly for half an hour. Pour it into a bread raiser- and when lukewarm add the salt and yeast. Gradually beat in the flour. Put on a cover and set in a warm place to raise. When it doubles its bulk, add more flour if necessary and work with a wooden spoon until it can be handled. Turn out on a floured baking board and knead thor- oughly. Mold into loaves, put into greased bread pans, and set it to rise in a warm place. When light bake in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour. Sguash Bread (German recipe). 2 cupfuls squash, i cupful sugar, 3 cupfuls scalded milk, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 yeast cake, Flour enough to knead. Press the stewed squash through a potato ricer, stir it with the sugar, salt, and butter into the hot milk; when cool, pour in the dissolved yeast and as much flour as will make a dough that can be handled. Turn out on a baking board and knead for fifteen minutes. Return to the bread raiser and let it double its bulk. Knead again, shape into loaves, raise, and bake. Oatmeal Bread. i cupful rolled oats, IJ cupfuls flour, 2 cupfuls boiling water, 1 yeast cake, J tablespoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, i cupful molasses. Put the oatmeal into a bread raiser, pour the boiling water over and let stand until lukewarm; then add salt, butter, dissolved yeast cake, and molasses; stir in the flour, beat thoroughly, and set it to raise in buttered bread pans. When it has almost doubled its bulk, bake. MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Nut Bread. 1 cupful entire-wheat flour, 1 cupful white flour, i cake yeast, 1 cupful milk, 2 tablespoon fuls brown sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, J pound shelled hickory nuts. Set a sponge of the wheat flour, white flour, yeast, and milk; when light, add sugar, salt, hickory nuts, and enough entire-wheat flour to make as stiff as can be stirred with spoon. Put in the pan, raise, and bake one hour. Kye au4 Indian Bread. 2 cupfuls yellow cornmeal, i cupful yeast, i cupful molasses, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful soda, 3 cupfuls rye meal. Put the cornmeal into a mixing bowl and scald with boiling water; after ten minutes mix to a soft bat- ter with cold water. When luke- warm, add the yeast, molasses, salt, soda, and 2 cupfuls rye meal. Beat thoroughly, cover with a pan, and set in a warm place to rise over night. When the surface cracks open, stir it down, then grease and flour a pan, turn in the dough, smooth over the top, and sprinkle evenly with flour to prevent crust from forming. Let it rise again until cracks appear, then bake it in a moderate oven from two to three hours, covering with a tin lid after the first hour. rruit Bread. 3 cupfuls sweet nulk, 2 cakes yeast, i teaspoonful salt, 4 tablespoonfuls lard, i tablespoonfuls sugar, IJ cupfuls fruit, cut fine. Flour. Scald milk and cool to lukewarm; strain in the yeast dissolved in one quarter cupful lukewarm water. Sift salt with three cupfuls of flour, beat vigorously into liquid, and let sponge rise. Cream the lard, butter, and sugar; dredge the fruit with flour and add to the sponge. Add su£Bcient flour to make a soft dough. Knead thoroughly and set to rise. When light, divide, form into loaves, put in bread pans, and when ready, bake in slightly cooler oven than is required for plain bread. For the fruit in this bread, use either raisins, currants, citron, dates, figs, or pru- nelles. Bread Made with Dry Yeast. 2 quarts flour, 2J cupfuls warm water, 2 tablespoonfuls lard, 1 yeast cake, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt. Sift the flour in the bread pan; break up the yeast cake and put in a quart bowl; then add a gill of water, and mash with a spoon until the yeast and water are well mixed. Beat in 1 gill of flour. Cover the bowl and set in a warm place for two hours. At the end of that time the batter should be a perfect sponge. . Add to the sponge a pint of warm water, half the lard, also salt and sugar. Stir this mixture into the flour and mix with a spoon. Sprinkle the board with flour, turn out the dough, knead twenty minutes, using as little flour as possible. At the end of this time the ball of dough should be soft, smooth, and elastic. Place the dough in the bowl and rub the second spoonful of butter or lard over it. Cover with a towel, then a tin cover. Set the bowl in a warm place and let it raise over night. In the morn- ing the dough will have increased to three times its original volume and be a perfect sponge. Knead it in the bowl for five minutes — do not use flour — ^then shape into three small loaves. Put these in deep pans, and with a sharp knife cut lengthwise through the center of each loaf. Put the pans in a warm place and cover with a towel. Let the loaves rise to twice their size, then bake fifty min- utes. BREAD est Sweet-Potato Bread. 1 cake yeast, J cupful lukewarm water, 1 cupful scalded milk, 1 tablespoonful salt, i cupful sugar, 1 cupful sweet mashed potatoes, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water, add the milk, salt, sugar, and potatoes (roasted, scraped from the skins, and worked to a cream with the melted butter), then allow to cool. Beat all together until light, then stir in with a wooden spoon enough flour to make a soft dough. Throw a cloth over the bread bowl and set in a warm place until well raised. Make into small loaves; let them rise for an hour and bake in a brisk oven; Salt-Rising Bread. 2 cupfuls hot water, 1^ teaspoon fuls salt, 1 pint lukewarm milk. Flour. Dissolve J teaspoonful salt in hot water, and beat in gradually enough flour to make a very soft dough. Beat for ten minutes, cover, and set in a warm place for eight hours. Stir the salt into the milk and add enough flour to make a stiff batter before working it into the raised dough; mix thoroughly, cover, and set again in a warm place to rise until very light. Knead in enough flour to make the batter of the consistency of ordinary bread dough. Make into loaves and set them to rise; when light, bake. SHALL BBEADS MADE FBOU YEAST Stockholm Bread (Swedish recipe). 64 cupfuls flour, 1 yeast cake, 3^ cupfuls scalded milk, J cupful melted butter, 1 egg, § cupful sugar, J teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. Scald 1 cupful milk; when luke- warm, dissolve the yeast cake in it. Beat in 1 cupful llour and let the sponge rise till light; add the rest of the milk with 4 cupfuls flour, beat again and allow it to rise. Then add the butter, sugar, cinnamon, salt, and the egg beaten to a froth, also the remainder of the flour. Mix and knead on a floured baking board. Cover and raise. Roll the dough into coils about an inch and a half thick and twelve inches long. Braid them, pinch the ends together, set in a greased pan to rise, and bake in a moderate oven. Cool slightly, then brush with powdered sugar mois- tened with boUing water and slightly flavored with cinnamon. Eederal Bread. 1 quart milk, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 yeast cake, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 3 eggs. Scald the milk and add to it the butter and salt; when cool, pour in the dissolved yeast cake and beat in enough flour to make a dough that is softer than for bread. Pour into a shallow pan and raise over night; bake in the morning. When taken from the oven, split it shortcake fash- Ion, butter generously, and serve hot. This is an excellent hot bread to make for breakfast, because, unless the weather is unusually warm, the cook will And it just in proper con- dition to bake when breakfast is re- quired. Rice Bread. i pound boiled rice, 2 quarts flour, i yeast cake, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 teaspoonful salt, 3 teaspoonfuls sugar. Mash the rice while hot and rub it into the flour with the tips of the fingers. Add the salt and sugar, warm milk, and dissolved yeast. Make it into c dough just soft 24 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK enough to handle, knead well, and bake in a shallow pan. Let it double its bulk, and bake in a hot oven. Parker House Kolls. 7 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 pint milk, 1 yeast cake. Put 4 cupfuls flour into a mixing bowl with the salt, sugar, and but- ter; pour on the milk, scalding hot, and beat thoroughly ; allow it to cool, then add the dissolved yeast and let the sponge raise till frothy; put in the rest of the flour, mix thoroughly, and knead. Raise again, then turn out on a baking board and shape into Parker House rolls. The way to make these rolls is to cut off a small ball of dough and roll it flat and thin. Brush over the top with melt- ed butter, cut across the middle, but not quite through the dough, with the back of a silver knife. Fold over and lay nearly double then press down to make the dough adhere; allow them to rise. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven, and brush with melted butter. Swiss Bolls. S cupfuls milk, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, i cupful butter, 1 cake yeast, IJ quarts flour, 1 teaspoonful salt. Scald the milk and melt the sugar and butter; when lukewarm, add the dissolved yeast. Stir in the flour and set in a warm place to raise. Turn out on a floured bread board, roll till an inch thick, brush the top over .with melted butter, and roll up the sheet of dough like a. rolled jelly cake. Press it lightly into shape and cut from the end slices about an inch thick; put the slices, cut side up, into a greased pan and let rise until they have doubled in height. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes, and brush over with melted butter. Hot Cross Buns. 1 pint milk, i cupful butter, J cupful sugar, 3 eggs, i teaspoonful salt, 1 yeast cake. Flour. Scald the milk and pour it over the butter and salt; when lukewarm, add the dissolved yeast and eggs well beaten, then siirt in flour enough to make a thin batter, and beat with a wire whisk ten minutes; when full of bubbles, add flour enough to make a dough; knead it hard and raise. When it has doubled its bulk, turn it out, knead it and cut into buns. Place them in a greased pan to rise, brush them over when ready to go into the oven with a sirup made of 1 tablespoonful cream and 3 ta- blespoonfuls sugar boiled together for a minute. Dust with cinnamon and just before putting in the oven cut two gashes in the top with a sharp knife. By adding raisins or currants to this recipe you can have very nice fruit buns. If you wish to transform them into prune kringles, chop 6 or 8 meaty prunes, which have been cooked and sweetened, add to the dough, let rise, and, instead of baking them bun shape, cut into sticks. Yorkshire Sally Lunn (English rec- ipe). 3 quarts flour, 1 yeast cake, 2 eggs, 1 cupful butter, 1 tablespoonful sugar, J teaspoonful salt, 2 cupfuls milk. Warm the flour, add the milk luke- warm, the melted butter, beaten eggs, sugar and salt, then the dissolved yeast cake. Beat thoroughly. This makes a very soft dough, but it must be kneaded; therefore, add a little BREAD 25 more flour, as it is difficult to handle. Cut into small balls; drop each one into a greased muffin pan, raise, brush over with white of egg, and bake till delicately brown. When tak- en from the oven, brush with a sirup made from milk and sugar. Serve hot. Apple Cake (Dutch recipe). 1 cupful milk, i cupful sugar, i cupful butter, i teaspoonful salt, 1 yeast cake, 2 eggs. Flour, 5 apples, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, i teaspoonful cinnamon. Scald the milk, pour it over the butter, sugar, and salt; when luke- warm, add the eggs, dissolved yeast cake, and enough flour to make a soft dough. Beat it thoroughly and set in a warm place to raise. Beat again and let it rise a second time. Then pour into a shallow greased pan, spread the dough out thin with a palette knife, and brush over the top with melted butter. Pare the ap- ples, core, and cut into eighths. Lay them thickly on top of the dough in straight rows. Dust sugar and cinna- mon over them, cover with a towel, set in a warm place, and let the dough raise again. Bake in a mod- erate oven half an hour, cut into squares and serve hot, with whipped, sweetened cream. Entire-Buckwheat Cakes. 3 cupfuls warm milk, I cake yeast, J teaspoonful salt, Buckwheat flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, i cupful boiling water, 1 tablespoonful molasses. The general idea is that you have to mix buckwheat with white flour to make good cakes, but they are ex- cellent made with buckwheat alone. Pour the milk into a mixing bowl, add the dissolved yeast, and stir in as much buckwheat flour as will make a medium batter, then add the salt and molasses, and leave the bat- ter to stand over night. In the morn- ing, when ready to bake, dissolve the soda in boiling water, stir it in, beat for a few minutes, then make your cakes. Turn them just once. Luncheon Rolls. 2 cupfuls sifted flour, i cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 1 cake yeast. Dissolve the yeast in lukewarm milk, add sugar and salt, then add the butter, melted. Stir milk into flour gradually. Give the dough a. hard kneading, adding sufficient flour to make it soft. Cut and form into rolls, place in buttered biscuit pans, set in a warm place to rise, and bake in a brisk oven. Buckwheat Cakes. 1 cake yeast, 2 cupfuls lukewarm milk, 1 tablespoonful wheat flour, 1 tablespoonful molasses, J teaspoonful salt, 1 quart buckwheat flour. Dissolve the yeast in the milk. Rub together the flour, molasses, and salt; add to this the ifjilk containing the yeast, and rub until perfectly smooth, then stir in two cupfuls lukewarm milk or water. To this add sufficient buckwheat flour to make thin batter, which should be rubbed perfectly smooth. Set the batter in a, moderately warm place to rise over night. In the morning thin, if nec- essary, and fry on welj-greased grid- dle. Baised Batter Cakes, 1 cake yeast, 3 cupfuls milk, 2 cupfuls flour. MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 4 tablespoonfuls melted lard, 4 tablespoonfuls sirup. Dash salt. Dissolve the yeast in lukewarm milk. Put into mixing bowl the flour melted with lard, then add sirup, salt, and milk. Add the yeast, and mix until a smooth batter is pro- duced. Set in a moderately warm place, cover with a cloth, and let it raise over night. In the morning beat well, and fry on well-greased griddle. English Bath Buns. 4 cupfuls flour, i cupful butter, 4 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls granulated sug- ar, i cupful milk, 1 cake yeast. Put flour in bowl, make well in center, break eggs in whole, then add butter, milk, and, last, the yeast, which has been previously dissolved in a little warm water. Mix thor- oughly and raise. If it is put in a moderately warm place, it will be light in an hour. Turn it out on a well-floured board, and with the tips of the fingers lightly work in S ta- blespoonfuls sugar and add the flav- oring. Drop by tablespoonfuls on a buttered baking pan, raise for ten minutes, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Sultanas or chopped al- monds may be added. Lancashire Tea Cakes. 6 cupfuls flour, i cupful butter, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 yeast cake, 1 cupful currants, 2 ounces candied lemon, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, A little grated nutmeg. Put the sugar and the currants with the flour; melt the butter in the milk; when cool, mix with the beaten eggs and yeast. Add the dry in- gredients, beating well, and set to raise. When light, put in cake pans to double its bulk. Bake in a mod- erately hot oven. These are de- licious when fresh, and equally good split and toasted the second day. Swedish Kolls. 1 yeast cake, 2 cupfuls milk, scalded, i cupful butter, i cupful sugar, 1 scant teaspoonful salt. Whites of 3 eggs, 7 or 8 cupfuls flour. Melt the butter, dissolve the sugar and salt in the hot milk; when luke- warm, add the yeast and beaten whites. Mix in flour to make a drop batter. In the morning add the remainder of the flour and knead twenty minutes. Raise till light; then knead again slightly and roll half an inch thick. Have the edges as straight as possible. Spread all over with a thin layer of soft butter, a sprinkling of sugar, cinnamon, grated lemon rind,, and currants. Roll like a jelly roll, cut off slices an inch wide, lay them with the cut side down on greased pans, and when raised bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Glaze with sugar dissolved in milk. Currant Squares. 1 cupful cream, J cupful melted butter, 3 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, i cake yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls water, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful powdered mace, 1 teaspoonful powdered cinna- mon, 1 cupful currants. Heat the cream in a double boiler, then stir in the butter, well-beaten eggs, and sugar. Add the yeast dis- solved in a. little water, the flour sifted with the spices, then the cur- BREAD 27 rants dredged with flour. Beat hard for fifteen minutes. Pour into a shal- low baking pan and raise until it is almost doubled in bulk. Bake in a quick oven; when done, sprinkle with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Let the cake cool slightly, then cut into squares with a sharp knife. Raised Wheat MufSins. 2 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, i tablespoonful sugar, i teaspoonful salt, 1 egg, i yeast cake. Pour the flour, salt, and sugar in a bowl; boll the milk and add the but- ter to it. Let the mixture stand till lukewarm, add the milk, butter, and yeast to the flour, and beat well. Cover the bowl and set in a cool place over night. In the morning the batter will be a light sponge. Beat the egg and add to this sponge. Half fill buttered muffin pans with the batter; cover, and let the muf- fins raise in a warm place. Bake for half an hour in a moderately quick 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 7 eggs, 1 cupful butter. Warm water. Sift the flour; into 1 cupful of it pour the dissolved yeast with just enough warm water to make a bat- ter. Set it to raise. When it has doubled its bulk, put in the salt, sugar, melted butter, and 4 eggs. Beat five minutes, add another egg, beat again, and so on until 'all/ have been used; keep beating until the paste leaves the side of the bowl, then set in a warm place for four hours. Turn it out on a floured board, roll in a long piece half an inch thick, spread with softened but- ter, and fold one end over the center, then the other end over that, until you have three layers. Cut off pieces about an inch wide, lay them on the board to raise, and cover with a towel. When puffy, take each strip between the fingers and thumbs, twist in different directions, coil pyramid shape, letting one point come on top. Set to raise on a greased pan, bake twenty minutes, and brush over with powdered sugar, moisten with water, and flavor with cinnamon. Raised Wheat Waffles. 3 cupfuls flour, li cupfuls milk, i yeast cake, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, J teaspoonful salt, 1 egg. BoU the milk and, after adding the butter to it, cool the mixture. Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a bowl, add the milk and yeast, and beat well. Raise the batter over night. In the morning add the well-beaten egg. Have the waffle irons hot and greased. Cook the cakes quickly. Broiche (French recipe). 4 cupfuls flour, 4 yeast cake, 1 teaspoonful salt. Erenznach Horns (German recipe). 4 cupfuls flour, 1 yeast cake, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 eggs, J cupful water, 1 cupful milk, i teaspoonful salt. Set a sponge with 3 cupfuls flour with the yeast cake and milk. When it rises, make into a dough with the rest of the flour, adding the butter, sugar, eggs, and salt. Let it rise again. Roll it out into pieces six inches square and quite thin. Cut each square into four triangles, brush with melted butter, dust lightly with flour, roll up from the wide side, let- ting the point of the triangle come on top and bend around in the form of a horseshoe. Put them to rise in 28 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK a greased pan when ready to bake, brush over with milk, and bake in a hot oven. Eaised Doughnuts. 2 cupfuls bread dough, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, J teaspoonful nutmeg, 2 eggs. Flour. When the dough for a baking of bread rises the last time in the pan and is kneaded out on the board, cut off a piece large enough to fill a pint measure, put in a bowl, add all the ingredients called for in the recipe and work them into the spongy mass, sifting in flour as needed to make it of a consistency that can be rolled. When thoroughly blended, turn it out on the board, sift with flour, and roll about three quarters of an inch thick. Cut into fingers or rings with a doughnut cutter and spread them out on the board to rise. When puffy, fry in boiling fat, turning so they will be browned all over. Drain from the kettle and toss immediately in powdered sugar. A favorite breakfast in New Eng- land is the bread dough, taken with- out any addition of sugar, eggs, or spices, cut into strips, raised, and fried like doughnuts, then eaten hot with maple sirup. German Coffee Cake. 1 egg, 1 cupful milk, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, J yeast cake, i teaspoonful salt, § teaspoonful cinnamon, i cupful raisins, i cupful shaved citron. Flour. Scald the milk, pour it over the butter, sugar, and salt. When luke- warm, add the dissolved yeast and enough flour to make a soft dough; beat the mixture hard; let it rise over night. In the morning add the beaten egg and the fruit, also a lit- tle more flour if necessary, and knead for a few minutes. Shape the dough into a ring, put in a greased pie plate, and set to rise. Before put- ting into the oven, brush the top with melted butter, and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Bake half an hour. CHAPTER III BAKING-POWDER BREADS Baklng-Powder Biscuits. 2 cupfuls flour, 2 tablespoonfuls lard, 1 cupful milk, i teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonf uls Calumet baking powder. Sift the salt, baking powder, and flour together, rub in the lard, add the milk, and beat to a soft dough. Turn out on a floured baking board, roll out about an inch thick, and cut into biscuits. Lay in a baking pan, brush the tops with milk, and bake in a quick oven. Drop Biscuits. 3 cupfuls flour, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, J teaspoonful salt, IJ cupfuls milk. Sift the baking powder, salt, and flour together, rub in the butter with the tips of the fingers, then add the milk, and beat to a soft dough. Grease a baking pan, lift a level ta- blespoonful of the dough and drop it into the pan, having each biscuit an inch apart, and bake in a hot oven. This is an excellent recipe to use when one is in a. hurry and there is not time to make a biscuit which has to be rolled out and cut. Flannel Cakes. 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 cupfuls milk, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Warm the butter in the milk, pour over the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, add sufliclent flour to make it pour, then the salt and baking pow- der. Beat the whole thoroughly, fold in the whipped whites of the eggs, and bake on a hot griddle. Batter Bread. 2 eggs, 1 cupful cornmeal, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, melted, J cupful white flour, 4 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. Melt the butter over hot water; separate the eggs; beat the yolks slightly; add the milk, butter, corn- meal, flour, and salt. Beat thor- oughly, add the baking powder, beat again, and fold in, carefully, the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in greased shallow bak- ing pan in a moderate oven thirty- five minutes. Cut into squares, and serve warm. Shortcake. 2 cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful milk. Sift together all the dry ingre- dients, rub in the butter with the tips of the fingers, then wet with the milk to a soft dough. Drop it on a. floured baking board and, handling it just as little as possible, roll and so MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK pat into two round cakes, which will fill a. deep pie plate. Drop in one cake of the dough, brush with melted butter, and lay the other one on top of it. Bake until crisp, brown, and puffy. Split and between the cake and on top spread any fruit which is in season. Strawberries, of course, make a most delicious shortcake. Be- sides this, peaches can be used, red raspberries, cherries, fresh apricots, oranges, or a blend of oranges and bananas, while a shortcake filled with stewed prunes or well-seasoned apple sauce is not to be despised. Chipped pineapple mixed with ba- nanas and oranges makes a delicious filling. In every case, have it juicy by leaving the fruit covered with sugar to stand for an hour in a cool place before it is served. Graham Biscuits. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 cupfuls Graham flour, 1 cupful white flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, S cupfuls milk. Mix thoroughly, and chop into the mixture 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Add the milk, and if the mixture is then too stiff to handle, add enough water to make it a soft dough. Turn upon a floured board, roll out and cut into biscuits, handling as little and as lightly as possible. Bake in a steady Waffles. 2 eggs, 1 cupful milk, IJ cupfuls flour, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, i teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Beat the yolks of the eggs light; add alternately, and beating in well, the milk and flour. When these in- gredients are mixed, add the butter. baking powder, salt, and whipped whites of the eggs. Sally lunn. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 cupfuls sweet mUk, 3 eggs, 6 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar. Warm the butter in the milk; pour over the eggs, beaten light; then stir in a little at a time, and beating con- tinuously, the flour, with which has been sifted the baking powder, salt, and sugar. Turn into a greased cake mold, and bake in a steady oven. Egg Biscuits. 3 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1 cupful sweet milk, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Sift the flour, add the salt, sugar, eggs (beaten well), lard, milk, and baking powder. Work to a smooth dough, roll half an inch thick, cut in large biscuits, rub over with sweet milk, lay on buttered tins, and bake brown in a quick oven. Corn Cakes. 2 cupfuls cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful salt, 3 eggs, 1 cupful sweet milk, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. Put the meal in a bowl, mix with salt, and pour over it enough boiling water to moisten the mass; cover for five minutes or an hour, as conven- ient. Beat the eggs separately, add a cup of sweet milk to the yolks, and pour over the scalded meal; mix well, add the baking powder and the beat- en whites of the eggs. Grease a grid- dle with bacon drippings, and fry. BAKING-POWDER BREADS 31 Vieuna Biscuits. 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. i teaspoonful salt, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1^ cupfuls milk. Sift the baking powder and salt with the flour; mix thoroughly with the butter and lard; wet with the milk; turn out on a floured bread board, and knead smooth; roll into a sheet half an inch thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Bake at once in a quick oven. Ground-Bice Muffins. 4 cupfuls ground rice, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 teaspoonful sugar. Dash salt, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful Calumet baking powder. Cream together the butter and sug- ar. Pour on enough boiling water to moisten the rice, stirring all the time. Cool and add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten, creamed butter and sug- ar; then enough sweet milk to form a batter, beating thoroughly; add the baking powder and salt, and, last, fold in the whites of the eggs, well beaten. Bake in gem pans in a quick oven. Twin-Uountain Kuffins. i cupful butter, J cupful sugar, 1 egg, f cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Cream the butter; add the sugar and egg, well beaten; sift baking powder with flour, and add to the first mixture, alternating with milk. Bake in buttered gem pans twenty- flve minutes. Kye Oems. 1§ cupfuls rye flour, IJ cupfuls white flour, 4 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. 1 teaspoonful salt, 3 eggs, i cupful molasses, IJ cupfuls milk, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Sift the dry ingredients, add mo- lasses, milk, eggs, well beaten, and o Oval Muflin Pans ; 6, Oblong Muffin Pans ; c, Bound Popover Pans. butter. Bake in hot oven in buttered gem pan twenty-flve minutes. ITut Biscuits. 3 cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 cupful chopped nuts, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, ' I cupful milk. Sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder; rub in the butter, add the nuts — English walnuts, hick- ory nuts, or almonds — and sugar; mix to a soft dough with milk. Mold with the hands into small balls, place well apart on greased pans, brush each with milk, put a pinch of 32 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK chopped nuts on top, and bake in a hot oven. Corn Mnfilns. 3 cupfuls cormneal, 2 cupfuls flour, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonfiU salt, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 tablespoonful butter or lard, 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls milk. Sift together commeal, flour, sug- ar, salt, and powder; rub in the shortening, add eggs, beaten, and milk; mix into batter of consistency of cup cake; fill muffin pans, well greased, two thirds full. Bake in a hot oven. Berry Muffins. 2 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, J cupful sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 egg, 1 cupful milk, 1 cupful berries. Mix as for plain muffins; add ber- ries last, dusting them with a little flour. Bake in muffin pans in a hot oven. Graham Muffins. 1 quart Graham flour, 1 tablespoonful brown sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 egg, 2 cupfuls milk. Sift together Graham flour, sugar, salt, and powder; add beaten egg and milk; mix into batter. Bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes in greased muf- fin pans. Slappers. 2 cupfuls Indian commeal, i teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 3 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 1 cupful wheat flour, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Mix together meal, salt, and but- ter; pour on slowly sufficient boiling water to thoroughly moisten the meal. Cover; let stand over night. Add the eggs, well beaten, milk, flour — ^the first half-cupful of flour being mixed with the baking powder — ^to make a very thick drop batter. Drop by spoonfuls on a hot greased grid- dle, cook slowly till brown, turn and brown on other side. No-Egg Wheat Cakes. 3 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, i teaspoonful salt, 2 cupfuls milk. Sift dry ingredients; add milk to make a soft batter, and beat hard. Bake immediately on hot griddle. Serve with butter and maple sirup. J^am Griddle Cakes. 3 cupfuls flour, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, i teaspoonful salt, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls milk. Rub butter and sugar to a cream; add yolks of eggs, one at a time. Sift flour, salt, and powder together; add to butter with milk and whites of eggs whipped to' dry froth ; mix to a batter. Bake in small cakes; as fast as browned, lay each cake on a plate and spread raspberry jam over it, then bake more, lay on other al- ready done; repeat this until you have used jam tsvice, then bake an- other batch. Blueberry Griddlecakes. 1 cupful blueberries, 2 cupfuls flour, BAKING-POWDER BREADS 33 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful brown sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder; add beaten eggs, milk, and berries. Mix into a batter. Have griddle hot enough to form a crust as soon as the batter touches it. In order to confine the juice of berries, turn quickly to form a crust on the other side. Griddled SCuffins. 1 cupful flour, 1 teaspoonful butter, 1 egg, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, i cupful milk. Mix the flour, butter, baking pow- der, and egg with the milk. Place small muffin rings on a hot griddle, put a little fat into each ring, fill them half full with the batter, and bake over a moderate fire till light brown. Turn with a pancake turner, and bake the same on the other side. Trench Pancakes. 3 eggs, 2 cupfuls milk, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, A pinch of salt, 2 cupfuls flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs light; pour over them the milk; add gradu- ally the baking powder, salt, and flour; fold in lightly the whipped whites of the eggs. Bake by large spoonfuls on a hot griddle. Spread each cake as soon as baked with jam, and shape into a roll. Bannocks (Irish recipe). 4 cupfuls flour, i cupful butter, IJ cupfuls milk. i teaspoonful salt, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Mix the ingredients to a soft dough; roll an inch thick, shape into cakes, six inches across, with a large cooky cutter, and bake on a hot griddle. Before taking from the fire, be sure they are baked to the heart. Split in two, butter, and serve hot. One-Egg Griddlecakes. 3 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 2 cupfuls milk. Sift the dry ingredients, separate the egg, and add to flour the milk and beaten yolk. Beat thoroughly, add the melted butter and white of egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake at once. "Whole-Wheat Griddlecakes. IJ cupfuls white flour, I cupful whole-wheat flour, J teaspoonful salt, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, 4 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. If cupfuls milk, ^ 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar; stir into a batter with the milk, the beaten egg and butter. Bake »t once. Indian Griddlecakes. 1 cupful Indian meal, 1 cupful flour, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful butter, J teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Milk. Put Indian meal into a mixing bowl and pour over it enough scald- 34 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK ing milk to make a thick mush. When it cools, add the flour and enough cold milk to make a thick batter, add the eggs, well beaten, the butter, melted, the salt, and baking powder. Beat till full of bubbles, then bake on a hot griddle. Hominy Gems. 3 cupfuls cold hominy, 3 eggs, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, S teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 tablespoonful melted butter. Put the cornmeal in a mixing bowl, pour over it the scalded milk, beat thoroughly, and when cool add the hominy. Stir in the eggs, whip to a froth, add salt, sugar, baking pow- der, and butter, beat hard, pour into greased gem pans, and bake in a hot oven. This recipe when thinned with more milk makes delicious griddle- cakes. Graham Griddlecakes. IJ cupfuls Graham flour, J cupful white flour, S teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful melted butter. Sift the dry ingredients, then beat into a batter with egg, milk, and but- ter; bake on a griddle. Egg Biscuits. 4 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, J cupful butter, 3 eggs, 1} cupfuls milk, 3 teaspoonfuls sugar, i teaspoonful salt. Sift the dry ingredients, rub in the butter, and make into a, dough with the beaten egg and milk. Turn out on a baking board, roll into a sheet and mold into biscuits, as directed for Parker House rolls. Bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. Pitcaithley Scones (Scotch recipe). 4 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1} cupfuls milk, J teaspoonful salt. Sift together the dry ingredients, rub in the butter, and mix to a soft dough with the milk. Turn out on a floured baking board and roll into rounds. Dust the griddle thinly with flour, slip on the round of dough, and cut into quarters. Bake slowly and do not turn until the top is be- ■ ginning to show bubbles. Scones ought to be turned only once. Serve hot. Maryland Biscuits. 1 quart flour, 1 cupful milk and water mixed, 1 tablespoonful shortening, 1 teaspoonful salt. Rub the shortening into the flour and add the salt; mix the milk and water, and add them slowly to the flour, stirring all the while, until you have a hard, almost dry, dough. Put the dough out on a floured board and knead continuously for fifteen min- utes, until it is soft and elastic. Then beat it, constantly folding, for twen- ty minutes longer. Roll out, cut in biscuits; prick the tops with a fork, stand in a pan so that they will not touch each other, and bake in a mod- erate oven for thirty minutes. The sides of these biscuits should be white but cooked, the tops and bot- toms brown. — Mrs. S. T. Roreb. Popovers. 1 cupful sifted flour, J teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful milk, 1 egg. BAKING-POWDER BREADS 35 Sift together the flour and salt, then gradually beat in the milk and egg. Beat two minutes with a Dover beater and bake about half an hour in gem pans, buttered, in a fast oven. Oat Cakes (Scotch recipe). 2 cupfuls Canadian oatmeal, 1 teaspoonful lard, J teaspoonful salt. Water. Put oatmeal in a mixing bowl; rub in the salt and shortening, add enough water to make a stiff dough, dust the bread board with oatmeal and roll out thin; cut the cake into a round big enough to fit a griddle and slip it carefully on to the hot iron. Before it begins to bake, cut the round into quarters. Bake until crisp and delicately brown, and if they do not seem quite hard enough, set the cakes in the oven until thoroughly dried out. BREADS HADE FBOM SOUB MILE Milk or cream used for baking is best when it sours quickly and does not separate, but remains thick and smooth. The usual measurement to use in every recipe where lightness is desired is 1 level teaspoonful soda to 2 cupfuls sour milk or 1 cup- ful molasses. Sometimes the milk is sour, but not loppered; then use it in gingerbread or brown bread, where there is molasses enough to complete the acidity, or let it stand for a few hours in a warm place to lopper. The more acid the milk is, the more soda it will require. Never use milk which has turned bitter or moldy. If you are lucky enough to possess sour cream, cut down in each recipe 2 tablespoonfuls butter to 1 cupful sour milk, else the mixture :will be too rich. Woodlawn Brown Bread. 2 cupfuls sour milk, 1 egg, 3 cupfuls Gra^iam flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, i cupful molasses, i teaspoonful salt. If the Graham flour is very coarse, sift it and throw away the bran. Add the salt, pour in the molasses, milk, beaten egg, and the soda dissolved in a little water. If you desire bread that is not very dark or sweet, use 3 tablespoonfuls molasses and 1 tea- spoonfid sugar. Steam for two and a half-hours in pound baking-powder can. Give it three hours if steamed in a quart pail. Sunday-Korning Loaf. 2 cupfuls Graham flour, 1 cupful wheat flour, 1 cupful Indian meal, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful molasses, IJ teaspoonfuls soda, J cupful cold water, 1 tablespoonful melted lard, 1 cupful sour milk, 1} cupfuls sweet milk. Sift the dry materials together, add the molasses, lard, soda melted in water, and milk. Beat thoroughly; pour into a buttered mold, and steam for three hours. This makes two me- dium-sized loaves. In New England these are called Sunday-Morning loaves, because they are generally made Saturday night and put in the oven for half an hour next morning to serve with the traditional baked beans. They keep for one or two weeks and may be heated for use at any time. Steamed Graham Loaf. 3 cupfuls of Graham flour, 1 cupful wheat flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, I teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful molasses, 2i cupfuls sour milk. Sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, beat well and turn into a buttered mold. Steam three and a half hours. This mixture, cooked in 36 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK pound baking-powder cans, will make four loaves, which can be re- heated when required. Place the can on a frame in a kettle containing boiling water. Whole-Wheat Muffins. 1 cupful whole-wheat meal, 1 cupful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, i teaspoonful salt, f teaspoonful soda, IJ cupfuls sour milk, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 egg. Sift the dry ingredients together, mix with the beaten egg, milk, and butter. Bake in hot gem pans. Spider Corn Cake. j cupful cornmeal, i cupful flour, 1 tablespoonful sugar, i teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful soda, 1 egg, J cupful sour milk, i cupful sweet milk. Sift the dry ingredients together and mix them with the well-beaten egg and milk. Beat thoroughly. Melt 2 tablespoonfuls butter in an iron spider and pour the mixture into it. Pour J cupful sweet milk over the top of the batter and set it very carefully into a hot oven. Bake for twenty minutes. Bice or Hominy Oriddlecakes or Uuffins. 1 cupful sour milk, 1 cupful cold rice or fine hominy, J teaspoonful salt, I teaspoonful soda, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful melted butter. Flour to make a batter. Heat the rice or hominy over hot water and moisten gradually with the milk till free from lumps. Add salt and soda, stir in the beaten egg yolk, then the melted butter, then flour to make a soft batter, lastly the white of egg beaten stiff. This is for grid- dlecakes. For muffins, use Hour enough to make a stiff batter. Corn Bread. 2 cupfuls sour milk, 3 eggs, 2 cupfuls Indian meal (white), 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 teaspoonful sugar. Beat the eggs separately, sift the soda twice through the meal, and add the salt. Beat the ingredients well together, adding the whites last of all. Bake in a moderate oven in muf- fin rings, with a large spoonful of the batter to each, until golden brown. Batter Cakes. IJ teaspoonfuls soda, 3 cupfuls sour milk, 3 eggs, 3J cupfuls flour. Beat thoroughly the soda with the sour milk. Beat the yolks of three eggs and add to the milk, then stir in the flour and a. little salt, making the batter of the consistency of cake. Then beat the whites to a stiff froth, fold in, and bake. Biscuits. 1 quart flour, 4 tablespoonfuls lard, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful soda. Sift the flour, add the lard, salt, sodaj and enough sour milk to make soft dough; roU thin, cut into bis- cuits, and bake in a very quick oven. Entire-Wheat Gems. 2 cupfuls sour milk, 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar, 1 saltspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful soda. Stir them all together, add suffi- cient flour to make a batter that will drop without spreading. Bake in gem pans. BAKING-POWDER BREADS 37 Spoon Biscuit. 4 cupfuls sour milk, 2 teaspoonfuls soda, 1 saltspoonful salt, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter. To the sour milk add the soda, salt, butter, and sifted flour to form a, batter that will drop from a spoon. Drop into a hot greased pan, and bake in a quick oven. Sour-Milk Graham Bread. 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 teaspoonful soda, 2 cupfuls sour milk, IJ cupfuls Graham flour, IJ cupfuls white flour. Beat the egg with the sugar, put in the melted butter ;> dissolve the soda in 2 spoonfuls hot water, and add the sour mUk. Stir up with the flour and bake slowly one hour. Griddlecakes. 1 pint sour milk, 2 cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful soda. Mix thoroughly the flour, salt; and beaten eggs; add more flour if need- ed to make a good batter. Last of all add 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in 1 tablespoonful hot water. Bake at once on a hot griddle. Sour-Milk Doughnuts. 2 cupfuls flour, I teaspoonful salt, 1 scant teaspoonful soda, 1 scant teaspoonful cream of tartar. Grating of nutmeg, J tablespoonful butter, 1 egg. i cupful sugar, 4 cupful sour milk. Sift together the dry ingredients, rub the butter into the flour with the finger tips, add the sugar, well-beat- en egg, and milk; beat thoroughly and toss the dough on a floured board. It ought to be a soft dough and it is not easy to handle. Use a knife in turning it over if you have any difficulty. Knead lightly and roll into a sheet. Cut the doughnuts with a ring cutter and fry in boiling fat, putting only about four in the kettle at once. If more are fried at a time, the fat wUl cool and the doughnuts become greasy. A WORD ABOUT BAKING POWDER Evert housekeeper should under- stand the nature of baking powder. This is important for two reasons: first, to insure palatable food, and, second, to avoii danger to health. A perfect baking powder is one that will produce the most leavening gas in the oven and the least residue in the stomach. It should be understood that baking powder is not a food of itself; its sole object is to make food light and sweet. Since this is true, the more it escapes into the air, after doing its leavening work in the oven, the better. The less residue left to be actually eaten, the bet- ter. Baking powders are usu- ally made from either cream of tar- tar or phosphate. Analysis has shown that the former leaves about seventy per cent of its own weight in Rochelle salts as a residue, and that phosphate leaves about thirty-five per cent of its own weight in phosphatic salts. Ro- chelle salts are the basic element of a Seidlitz powder. We have it upon no less an authority than the U. S. Department of Agriculture at Wash- ington, D. C, that " A loaf of bread made from a, quart of flour leavened with cream of tartar baking powder contains forty-five grains more of Rochelle salts than is contained in one Seidlitz powder." (See Bulletin No. 13.) Dr. A. Warner Shepard, formerly Health Officer in Brooklyn, said: "I have not the slightest doubt that the mental and physical health of thou- MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK sands is pennanently injured by the excessive use of Rochelle salts in im- pure beer, bread, and other forms of food and drink. It is certainly a factor in the alarming increase of Bright's disease of the kidneys and similar complaints. It irritates the kidneys, bowels, and stomach, and may therefore produce most unfor- tunate results." Dr. Moreau Morris, of the New York Board of Health, says: " It may be that I am a little prejudiced, but I think I express the consensus of the medical profession when I say that Rochelle salts should never be used by a person except by a physician's advice. Its continued use induces a very unhealthy condition of the stomach, and especially of the bowels, and finally produces constipation of an aggravated type." Unfortunately, a great deal of mis- information has been disseminated by interested manufacturers, and it is said upon good authority that $500,- 000 are now being spent every year to advertise the " pure " qualities of cream of tartar. As a matter of fact, much of the cream of tartar used in the manu- facture of baking powder is made from the dregs of wine vats, and the residue left after the chemical action in the processes of baking takes place is unhealthful. Phosphate not only leaves less residue after baking than cream of tartar (about one half as much), but phosphatic salts are comparatively harmless. Baking powder may be pure in the can and unwholesome in the bread. A reaction takes place in the process of baking, so that the substance left in the bread is entirely different from the material that entered the can, be- cause of chemical processes in the baking. The statement that a powder contains this or that substance may be misleading, for the reason that the consumer wants to know what goes into his stomach, and not what goes into the can. Brands of baking powder put up with the private firm name of a local merchant are usually found to be of inferior quality at least. The local dealer's name is generally injured by this custom, since his own reputation, not that of the manufacturer, goes behind the powder, and the merchant is usually not competent to judge the quality of the product. Then there are the prize-package baking powders. If sold at ten cents a pound, or if " twenty-five cents pays for twenty-five ounces," they wiU be found to be inferior, as the ingre- dients would cost as much (or more) at wholesale, even when bought in very large quantities. There are, in other words, two ex- tremes that should be avoided by the careful housewife: on the one hand, the so-called Trust-made goods, sold at double prices in order to pay the Trust dividends of some $10,000,000 a year on a sale of something like 10,000,000 pounds a year; and, on the other hand, the cheap prize- package powders just mentioned. The fact is that baking-powder ingredients of first quality may be purchased in the open market by anyone at, say, nineteen cents a pound, to make as good a. baking pgwder as anybody manufactures (if one only knew liow to mix them), and,- of course, a large manufacturer ought to be able to buy them cheaper. A first-class powder may be sold at a fair profit for about twenty-five cents a pound. It has been estimated that it costs one company something like thirty cents a pound to pay divi- dends ^ on many millions of watered stock and to sustain its business pol- icy before beginning to manufacture its powder. Obviously, the public must pay these huge biUs, and this fact would of itself account for the fifty-cents-a-pound price. A careful survey of the various brands before the public has led us to believe that the Calumet is a good example of an excellent baking pow- der from which this terrific tax upon the consumer has been shorn without the least sacrifice of quality. This brand, we learn, has been on the mar- BAKING-POWDER BREADS 39 ket for years, with a standing offer of and because of our belief that it would $1,000 reward to anyone who can find have been claimed, if possible, and as it in the ingredients any substance which is sold at so fair a price, this powder would be injurious to health. That has been especially recommended in this reward has never been claimed, the recipes in Mrs. Curtis's Cookbook. CHAPTER IV STALE BREAD A CAREFin, housewife plans to keep in stock the smallest amount possible of stale bread, and of that stock not a morsel is consigned to the garbage pail. There is economy in adopting the English fashion of bread cut- ting, placing the loaf on a wooden trencher with a keen knife, and cut- ting at the table each slice as it is required. Look carefully to the stale-bread remains of each day. Keep a wire basket, set in a tin pan in the pantry, to receive all scraps left on plates, toast crusts, or morsels from the bread jar. Never put them in a cov- ered pail or jar; they will mold. Save all soft inside parts of a loaf to be used as soon as possible for crou- tons or croustades, slices or cubes for toast and toast points, and soft scraps for meat and fish dressings, puddings, omelets, scalloped dishes, griddlecakes, souffles, croquettes, and the numerous dishes for which stale bread may be utilized. For stuffing for poultry, fish, spareribs, veal, or game it is often possible to use dry " heels " and crusts by soaking and adding to them a portion of dry crumbs. The scraps which can be used in no other way may be saved for crumbing. When the basket becomes full, put the bread in a pan and set in a moderate oven with the door open. Never al- low these crusts to grow more than a golden brown. The browner crumbs are, which are used as a covering for croquettes, etc., the less frying they will stand. Before a croquette rolled in very brown crumbs is heated to the heart, it will appear almost burned. When the scraps of bread are thoroughly dry, roll them on a board or put through the meat chopper, using the finest knife. If there are children in the family who like " rusk," the old-fashioned New England name for browned crumbs sprinkled into cold milk, re- serve the coarser- crumbs for this purpose. Sift through a fine sieve, and the crumbs, no larger than corn- meal, may be put away to be used for crumbing purposes. Save the rusk in the same way, keeping it al- ways uncovered. If the air is not allowed free circulation into the can, the crumbs will spoU. When rusk is used, heat it slightly in the oven. Af- ter croquettes have been crumbed, scrape together aU the fine crumbs left on the board and sift, returning what is dry to the can. Bread crumbs are always prefer- able to cracker crumbs in covering anything which has been dipped in egg. Cracker crumbs do not brown well. In the recipes following, stale bread and crumbs are spoken of in a distinctive fashion. Dried bread crumbs are those which are rolled and sifted, suitable for crumb- ing, but not for use in puddings or scallops, for they would absorb too much moisture. Stale crumbs are made from odds and ends of stale bread, rubbed on a grater or crum- bled fine. They must be used at Once or they will mold. Stale bread that is broken and un- sightly can be used for brewis, bread puddings, or in scallops. Toast or steam aU that can possibly be used in such a way. Remove crusts before toastingi It makes a dish more 40 STALE BREAD 41 sightly, and the crusts can be dried for crumbs or worlsed into a dress- ing. Slices of bread too ragged to be toasted may be trimmed into dia- monds, fingers, oblongs, rounds, or triangles for canapes. Cut smaller pieces in dice, narrow strips, or squares for croutons. Fry forty sec- onds in hot fat, or butter lightly and brown in the oven. They are an attractive accompaniment for thick soups. Toast that will cut into Vandykes or long points can be utilized for surrounding dishes of spinach, Brus- sels sprouts, asparagus, or green vegetables served in a mold. Dishes au gratin will use any of the dry bread crumbs. Instead of dotting the crusts with morsels of butter, melt the butter in an omelet pan, 3 tablespoonfuls butter to i cupful crumbs, and toss lightly with a fork till every morsel is buttered. Brewis, steamed bread, and toasts of a large variety are some of the changes to ring in the daily menu, and they can be made so appetizing that a family has no suspicion it is aiding to keep the bread jar in good condition. the side of the steamer or they will become water-soaked. Fit the steam- er tightly into the mouth of a kettle of boiling water. The bread will be ready in a few minutes. In taking it out, turn the lid over instantly to prevent water dripping on the bread. Butter each slice and arrange on a hot plate with a napkin over them. Stale biscuit or rolls may be steamed in the same fashion, or sprinkled with cold water and set for a few minutes into a hot oven. Toasted Sandwiches. Often after a picnic or entertain- ment a housewife has a number of bread-and-butter sandwiches left, too stale to serve. They may form the basis of a bread pudding or they make an attractive dish for break- fast, luncheon, or supper in the shape of toasted sandwiches. Do not take them apart, lay them between the wires of a toaster, and hold over a clear, red fire. The butter will melt and the inside be left soft, warm, and buttered, with the outside a crisp, golden brown. Browu-Bread Brewis. 3 cupfuls stale brown bread, 1 cupful stale- white bread, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2i cupfuls milk. For this dish use the smallest odds and ends of the bread, crumbling the larger portions into inch pieces. Put the butter in a spider. Allow it to melt, but not brown, and put in the bread. Pour the milk over it and simmer, stirring occasionally to keep the bread from sticking to the pan. Season with a dash of salt and white pepper. Serve hot. Steamed Bread. Into the middle of a large steamer with a close-fitting lid set a cup or bowl inverted and around it arrange slices of stale bread you wish to steam. Do not allow them to touch Toast. Trim the crust from stale slices you wish to toast and move it care- fully over a clear, red fire for two minutes. Then turn it over and let all the moisture be drawn out of the bread. Butter and serve immediately. Toast may be utilized, especially for breakfast, in all sorts of ways. Plain toast is a favorite in most households; then there are milk toast, cream toast, dropped eggs on toast, water toast, and the excellent dish of bread soaked in egg and milk which has all sorts of names, French, Spanish, Grer- man, and Scotch toast, but more properly egged toast. At the lunch- eon and dinner table toast appears in all forms — under chicken and with such vegetables as asparagus and spinach; under minced meats, fri- cassees, and creamed mixtures, or in the delicate canape. 43 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Spider Browned Toast. Take several slices of stale bread cut rather thick, cut off the crust and butter them on both sides. Lay them in a dry, hot spider over a rather slow iire and cover with a tight lid. When one side has browned delicately, turn and brown the other. They will be crisp outside, yet soft inside. Sandwiches in Cream Sauce. Sandwiches left over are not usu- ally inviting, but they may be made so by this method. Toast them deli- cately in the oven, and to every four sandwiches made from chicken, veal, or tongue makes a white sauce with 1 tablespoonful flour, J teaspoonful salt, a dash of pepper, and I cupful milk cooked until thick. Then add the yolk of 1 egg, well beaten. Pour this over the sandwiches and serve at White-Bread Brewis. Heat a pint of milk in a double boiler. Stir into it enough bits of stale wheat bread to absorb all the milk. Season with a little butter and salt. It should not be pasty or slop- py, but should be a light, dry por- ridge. It is a favorite with children, especially if served on a small, pretty saucer and dotted with bits of bright jelly. Serve hot. Bread-Crumb Buckwheat Cakes. I cupful stale bread crumbs, 3 cupfuls milk, I teaspoonful salt, i cake yeast, J cupfuls buckwheat flour, 1 tablespoonful molasses, J teaspoonful soda. Scald the milk and soak the crumbs for half an hour. Add the salt, yeast, and buckwheat flour, and let it stand over night. In the morning stir in the molasses and soda melted in a spoonful of warm water. Beat briskly for a few minutes and bake on a hot, greased griddle. Brown-Bread Cream Toast with Cheese. 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoopful flour, 1 cupful milk, I cupful grated cheese, 1 cupful cheese. Make a white sauce from the milk, butter, and flour; when it boils, add the grated cheese and weU-beaten egg. Cook slowly until mixed, then add a cupful of cheese, cut into small cubes. Season with salt and cayenne, and pour over slices of toasted brown bread. Fried Bread. 3 slices stale bread, 1 egg, 6 tablespoonfuls milk, 2 tablespoonfuls oil (olive). Cut the bread into fingers three inches wide and the length of the slice. Beat the egg slightly, add the milk. Dip the bread in the mixture. Put the oil in a spider and allow it to grow hot. Drop the bread in and saut6 tUl brown. Drain on soft pa- per. Arrange log-cabin fashion, and serve with a sweet liquid sauce or maple sirup. XCilk Toast. 6 slices stale bread, 2 cupfuls milk, 2 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Dry the bread thoroughly in the oven, then toast over a clear fire to a golden brown. Heat the milk in the double boiler, add the butter, and when scalding hot, the cornstarch moistened in cold milk. It ought to be like a milk sauce. Lay the toast on a hot platter and baste each slice with the sauce. Serve very hot. Brown-Bread Saute. Cut the crusts off around slices of Boston brown bread with a large STALE BREAD 43 cooky cutter. Fry bacon in a spider and put it on a hot platter when crisp. Then lay the bread in the bacon fat, and saut^ on both sides. Serve a crisp curled slice of bacon on each brown round. Tomato Toast. 14 cupfuls strained tomato, i cupful scalded milk, i teaspoonful soda, 3 tablespoon fuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, 6 slices toast. Make a tomato sauce from the but- ter, flour, and tomato, add the soda and salt, then the milk. Dip the toast in the sauce. Serve hot. Bread Grlddlecakes. * IJ cupfuls scalded milk, IJ cupfuls stale bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 eggs, i cupful flour, i teaspoonful salt, 3J teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Pour the hot milk and the melted butter over the crumbs and soak un- til they are soft. Add the well-beat- en eggs, flour, salt, and baking pow- der. Cook on a griddle like cakes. Bread Roulettes. 1 cupful stale bread crumbs, J cupful milk, 1 egg. Dash salt. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk. Mix with the egg and seasonings. Form into tiny balls, flour, egg, crumb, and fry in hot fat. Bread Sauce. 4 cupful stale bread crumbs, 14 cupfuls scalded milk, 1 tablespoonfjil butter. Pepper and salt, 4 cupful browned crumbs. Pour the hot milk over the stale crumbs and cook in a double boiler for twenty minutes. Add the butter, pepper, and salt. Put 1 tablespooii- f ul butter in an omelet pan and in it brown 4 cupful dry crumbs. Pour the sauce about game, timbales, or anything you wish to serve with it, and on top sprinkle browned hot crumbs. Bread Croquettes. 2 cupfuls stale bread crumbs, 1 cupful hot milk. Grated rind 1 lemon, 4 cupful currants, 4 teaspoonful cinnamon. Yolks 2 eggs. Boil the bread crumbs for two minutes in the hot milk. Add the lemon, currants, cinnamon, and re- move from the fire. Beat in the yolks of the eggs. Cool, form into croquettes, crumb, and fry in hot fat. Beignets of Buns. 2 stale buns, 1 egg, 4 gill milk, IJ tablespoonfuls flour. Dash salt. Soak the buns five minutes in the milk. Mix the yolk of the egg with milk, add the flour, salt, and beaten white. Dip the buns into batter, fry in half lard and half butter, light brown on both sides. Dust with sug- ar, and serve with jelly or preserved fruit. CHAPTER V SANDWICHES The old-fashioned sandwich — two thick wedges of bread, erratically buttered, hard of crust, exuding mus- tard, and with frills of ham or corned beef about the edge — ^has been rele- gated to the past by the arrival of the meat chopper. The sandwiches of the past were of a, half-dozen va- rieties; the iilling of a modern sand- wich is limited only by what you have on hand. Fish, flesh, fowl, vege- tables, eggs, nuts, olives, fruit, cheese, and pickles may be utilized alone, or combined, (ind the result, when prepared by a skillful cook, is a dainty and delicious morsel. If many sandwiches are required, as for a reception or picnic, bake the bread specially for them; there is less waste and the work is much easier. Keep on hand plenty of baking-pow- der cans, pound and half-pound sizes, also a few oblong tins which have held one pound of cocoa. Nothing can excel these as molds for baking bread for picnic sandwiches; it is tender, almost crustless, it needs no trimming to make two slices accord in size, and it bakes or steams much more quickly than in larger tins. Make the bread twenty-four hours before it is required and try to have it fine grained. Fill the cans half full of dough and set to raise. When almost at the top of the tins, put to bake with the lids off. Fill three quarters full of brown-bread mix- ture; it does not raise so much as bread which has yeast in it. Slip the small loaves out of the tins as soon as taken from the oven or steamer and set on a. wire stand to cool; then wrap in towels and put away in the bread box until required. The next consideration is butter. Put a pound of butter (if you have many sandwiches to make) in a mix- ing bowl and vrith a slitted wooden spoon beat it to a fine, light cream, exactly as for cake making. The but- ter is much easier to spread, it is more economical, then it is ready to divide into portions and blend with anything to make what is called a .flavored butter, the most delicious of all fillings. Before preparing sandwiches, if they are to be used at a luncheon or entertainment where other dishes ac- company them, be careful that the flavoring is different from the salad with which they are served. It is really in better taste to offer nothing with a salad or cold meat except plain bread and butter; still, fash- ion seems to demand a. flavored nib- ble as a salad accompaniment. Fish, lobster, or shrimp salads are most appetizing with sandwiches of Boston brown bread holding a tender lettuce leaf or a sprig of watercress dipped in mayonnaise. Serve sandwiches of mild cheese, flavored by mustard or tarragon, with green salads. White- bread sandwiches holding tender young nasturtium leaves between the buttered folds go well with salads of meat or fish. Garnish a plateful of this variety with a few nastur- tium leaves and blossoms. Finely cut peppergrass, chives, endive or celery are all fitting accompani- ments to sandwiches which are of- fered with a meat or chicken sal- ad. Cucumbers and tomatoes thinly sliced and spread with mayonnaise make a delicious bite between but- tered bread. Cut with a small cooky 44 SANDWICHES 45 cutter rounds of bread slightly larger than a slice of tomato or cucumber, and put the vegetable between them. These, as well as herb sandwiches, must not be made until immediately before serving. Cheese, which is generally the first course in a sandwich menu, may be spread between folds of white, Gra- ham, or entire-wheat bread, or deli- cate crackers. Roquefort, fromage de Brie, or any of the stronger cheeses should be flavored with fine- ly chopped olives or parsley and creamed butter. Combine with a milder cheese chopped olives, wal- nut meats, anchovy essence, and a dash of mustard, Mcllhenny's Ta- basco Sauce, and salt. Grate hard cheese and mash soft cheese with a spoon, afterwards rub to a paste with mayonnaise or butter and flav- oring. The delicious little cream or Neufchatel cheeses may be blended with chopped walnuts, given a bit of seasoning by Parmesan cheese, also a hint of lemon juice and paprika. Under the head of ^avory sand- wiches is a long list of possibilities. They include meat, fish, egg, as well as fillings obtained from chopped olives and pickles, or some strong seasoning, curry, caviare, or anchovy. For all sorts of meat, use a chopper, grinding with the finest knife. It provides a paste which, blended with mayonnaise, is as easy to spread on bread as butter. Scores of recipes might be offered to direct this blend- ing process, but the clever cook, with her own palate as criterion, can eas- ily adapt a few suggestions to the materials on hand. Chicken com- bines well with celery, chopped nuts, and olives. The most delicate chick- en sandwich is seasoned with celery salt and moistened with thick whipped cream instead of mayonnaise. Ham paste is blended with mayonnaise, mustard, chopped olives, and gher- kins. Veal paste may be seasoned like chicken — ^indeed one can scarcely tell the difference between the two fill- ings. Roast beef, corn beef, lamb, and poultry paste make good sandwiches. If you have not enough of one meat, add to it another which harmonizes in flavor; for instance, veal goes well with any sort of poultry, while tongue and ham make a good mixture. If remains of roast beef, lamb, or corn beef are small, chop and blend each separately; nothing seems to as- similate well with red-blooded meats. Use mustard, a few drops of. onion extract, and chopped pickles as flav- oring. They are better moistened with creamed butter than with may- onnaise. Put lobster, shrimp, or crab meat through the chopper. Cold fish or canned salmon is better delicately o, French Coffeepot; b. Filter Coffeepot; c. Everyday Pot for Boiled Coffee. picked to flakes with a fork. Sar- dines, anchovies, and salt fish make tasty picnic sandwiches. Pound to a paste, and give a touch of acidity by lemon juice or chopped pickle. Eggs should be hard-boiled; allow to be- come thoroughly cold, then put through a chopper, mix with mayon- naise or butter, and season well. When one comes to sweet sand- wiches, the variety is almost unlim- ited. Figs, dates, prunes, raisins, nuts, preserved ginger, and candied peel may be chopped, sweetened, moistened with whipped cream, lem- on, orange, or pineapple juice and spread between folds of white bread. When preparing them for an enter- tainment cut heart, diamond, or club shaped, and on top of each lay some- thing which suggests the filling — an English walnut meat, a shred of 46 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK green citron peel, or half a Maras- chino cherry, dipped in icing to make them stick. When you wish to roll sandwiches, use fresh bread, spread very lightly with the filling, and pin into shape with a toothpick. It is easy to keep sandwiches fresh some hours before they are required. Wring a napkin as dry as possible from hot water — a good plan is to put it through the wringer — ^wrap the sandwiches in it, then cover in a stone jar or something which will exclude air. Lamb Sandwiches. Mince cold roast lamb, season with salt, pepper, and a dash of Mcll- henny's Tabasco Sauce. Add minced olives and a chopped pimento, then make into a paste with mayonnaise dressing. Spread between slices of white bread. Sweetbread Sandwiches. Cut cold boiled sweetbreads in a meat chopper, moisten with whipped cream, season with, salt, cayenne, and lemon juice. Spread between thin slices of buttered bread. Hot-Ham Sandwiches. Butter thin slices of bread. Broil thin slices of ham, put between slices of white bread, and eat hot. Bacon may be served in the same fashion. Chicken and Celery Sandwiches. 1 cupful cold chicken, 1 cupful celery, 4 tablespoonfuls mayonnaise. Put chicken through the finest knife of a, meat chopper, add celery cut fine and mayonnaise. Butter white bread and spread with the ehicken mixture. Tongue Sandwiches. Make a dressing of one part mus- tard and six parts butter, add saltv pepper, and a dash of Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Butter the bread with this mixture and lay between thin slices of cold tongue. Oak-Hill Sandwiches. J cupful butter, 1 cupful finely chopped cold boiled ham, 1 cupful cold chicken. Dash of salt and paprika. Cream butter, add ham and chick- en, then salt and paprika. Spread the mixture between thin slices of white bread. Kare-Beef Sandwiches. Chop rare cold roast beef fine. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, a dash of horse-radish, and a few drops of Mc- llhenny's Tabasco Sauce, Make into sandwiches with thinly sliced Graham bread. Club Sandwich. Toast a slice of bread and butter it. On one half put, first, a thin slice of bacon which has been broiled till dry and tender, next a slice of the white meat of either turkey or chicken. Over one half of this place a circle cut from a ripe tomato and over the other half a tender leaf of lettuce. Cover with a generous layer of mayonnaise, and complete this de- licious " wholemeal " sandwich with the remaining piece of toast. — A. W. lobster Sandwiches. Blend with the chopped lobster meat a dash of Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and oil. Spread the mixture between slices of thinly buttered bread. Crab Sandwich. 1 hard-boiled egg, !• tablespoonful softened butter, i can deviled crab, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Moisten the sifted yolk of egg with butter, add chopped crab, and lemon juice mixed to a paste. Spread it between thin slices of buttered bread, put two together, press with a bread knife, and cut into fingers, tri- angles, or small squares. SANDWICHES 47 Salmon Sandwiches. 1 can salmon. Yolks 6 hard-boiled eggs. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, 2 tablespoonfuls parsley, i cupful boiled salad dressing, i teaspoonful salt. Drain the oil from salmon, remove the skin and bones, and mash fish fine. Add eggs, press through pota- to ricer, then salt, lemon juice, chopped parsley. Tabasco, and salad dressing. Spread between folds of white or entire-wheat bread. Mock-Crab Sandwiches. J cupful grated cheese, 4 tablespoonfuls creamed butter, J teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful paprika, i teaspoonful mustard, 1 teaspoonful anchovy paste, 1 teaspoonful vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped olives. To cheese add butter, salt, paprika, mustard, paste, vinegar, and chopped olives. Spread between rounds of white bread. — Stella A. Dowifiifo. Cheese Sandwiches. i cupful grated cheese, i cupful Roquefort cheese, 4 cupful cream, Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. To the. grated cheese add Roque- fort cheese rubbed to a paste; add sauce and cream. Beat till smooth and spread between slices of Graham bread. Walnut-and-Cheese Sandwiches, J cupful walnut meats, i cupful Neufchatel cheese. Dash pepper and salt. Chop walnuts fine and mix with cheese; add pepper and salt. Spread between slices of white bread. If desired, this sandwich may be further improved by putting between the folds a crisp lettuce leaf. Anchovy-Cheese Sandwich. 1 cottage cheese, 1 teaspoonful anchovy essence, 1 teaspoonful paprika, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped par- sley. To the cheese add anchovy essence, paprika, and parsley. Spread be- tween slices of entire-wheat bread, Boston Sandwiches. Slice Boston brown bread thin, butter lightly, and spread with Neufchatel or cottage cheese. Dip crisp lettuce leaves in French dress- ing, then lay on the brown bread. Press another slice of buttered brown bread on top, Cheese-and-Olive Sandwiches. Work a cream cheese until smooth and creamy; add half the quantity of olives finely chopped; moisten with mayonnaise dressing. The mixture may be slightly moistened with cream and seasoned with salt and cayenne. Spread between crackers. Walnut Sandwiches. Blanch and chop English walnuts. To each tablespoonful of nuts allow i tablespoonful cream cheese. Beat together and spread between thin slices of Graham bread. Peanut Sandwiches. Skin freshly roasted peanuts and reduce them to a powder in a meat chopper. Add salt, and mix the crushed nuts with fresh cream cheese. Spread the paste between slices of unbuttered Graham bread, Water-Cress Sandwiches. Chop cress coarsely and season with salt, pepper, and a few drops of vinegar. Blend with cottage cheese and spread between slices of white bread. 48 MRS. CURTIS'S , COOKBOOK Tomato Sandwiches. Slice Graham or whole-wheat bread thin, pare off the crust, butter on one side, spread with minced ripe tomatoes, drain off superfluous juice, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and sugar. Serve at once. The tomatoes should be ice cold and minced quick- ly. — Mahiou Habland. Onion Sandwiches. Cut bread very thin, removing the crust. Spread between each slice Bermuda or Spanish onions, chopped fine and mixed with a mayonnaise dressing. Cucumber Sandwiches. Chop 2 cucumbers fine, drain off the liquor, add a little onion juice, a dash of red pepper, and mix with a well-seasoned mayonnaise. Spread between white bread. Pimento Sandwiches. Cut bread thin, spread sparingly with thick mayonnaise dressing. Place on it a, slice of scarlet pimento, then more salad dressing, and cover with the upper piece of bread. Serve with a leaf of lettuce. Trim neatly either round, long, or square, cutting through lettuce and all. CHAPTER VI CEREALS AND FLOUR PASTE Ceheals include the grain foods from cultivated grasses, containing every variety from oatmeal to maca- roni, which is a paste made of wheat flour rich in gluten. Among them are most valuable foods — rice, for in- stance, which is the staff of life for certain nations. In what we call breakfast cereals we have a number of foods that are unusually rich in nitrogenous matter and mineral sub- stances, therefore making an excellent morning meal with no further addi- tion than milk or cream, for all ce- reals are lacking in fat. Unless cereals can be subjected to the long, slow cooking which is necessary, they had better not be eaten, for nothing is so indigestible as half-raw oatmeal. Twenty years ago, when most of our oatmeal was the old- fashioned steel-cut oats, it needed in- terminable cooking — ^ten hours was none too long for it; to-day most of the cereals put up in packages, so the directions say, can be cooked in half an hour. That is not possible; few of them, except the fine-grained wheat foods, are fit to eat till they have had at least one hour's cooking in a double boiler. If they can have longer, they are so much the better. Always add the proper amount of salt to a cereal — 1 teaspoonful to a quart of water — and let it dissolve before the grains are put in, so it will flavor the whole mass. The best way to cook any rough-grained ce- real is to drop it slowly into water which is boiling briskly in the upper part of a double boiler. After cook- ing for a few minutes on the stove, set it over the water and allow the grains to swell slowly so the food is stiff enough to be chewed. Cornmeal demands a long time for cooking — at least six hours — and it swells so it should have six times the same meas- urement of water. Granular cereals, farina, for instance, should be mixed with a little cold water and stirred smooth before being added to the nec- essary amount of boiling water; this prevents it from becoming lumpy. Never stir any cereal after it has been put to cook, until just before it is turned out. This treatment makes oatmeal pasty and sticky. Store ce- reals in glass cans with tight-fitting lids instead of the pasteboard boxes in which they are sold. It keeps them fresher and safe from the invasion of moths or mice. Cereal with Fruit. i cupful wheat germ, i cupful cold water, 3 cupfuls boiling water, 1 teaspoonful salt, i pound datete, stoped and cut in pieces. Mix cereal, salt, and cold water; add to boiling water in a saucepan. Boil five minutes, steam in double boiler thirty minutes; stir in dates, and serve with cream. Serve for breakfast or as a simple dessert. — Fannie M. Faemee. Hasty Pudding. 1 cupful cornmeal, 3" tablespoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful milk, 3 cupfuls boiling water. 49 50 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Mix the meal, flour, and salt with the milk; when smooth, stir in the boiling water. Cook in a double boiler one hour or more; or over di- rect heat one half hour. Serve with cream and sugar, or turn into tins to cool if wanted for saut^ing. Cut into slices, dip in flour, and saut£ in drip- pings or butter. Hominy Hush. i cupful fine hominy, i teaspoonful salt, 3 cupfuls boiling water. Put all together in a double boiler, and cook three hours. Add more water if mush seems stiff; all prep- arations of corn absorb a great deal of water in cooking, and hominy usu- ally needs a little more than four times its bulk. Oatmeal Porridge. 1 cupful granulated oatmeal, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 scant quart boiling water. Put the oatmeal and salt in a dou- ble boiler, pour on the boiling water, and cook three or four hours. Re- move the cover just before serving and stir with a fork to let the steam escape. If the water in the boiler be strongly salted, the oatmeal will cook more quickly. Boiled Oats. 1 cupful rolled oats, 2§ cupfuls boiling water,,', J teaspoonful salt. ' Mix ingredients, and cook in dou- ble boiler one hour. Steamed Bice. 1 cupful rice, 1 teaspoonful salt, 3 cupfuls boiliog water. Pick over the rice and wash in three or four waters. Put it' with the salt and boiling water in upper part of double boiler. Cook over boiling water. Do not stir while cooking, tender. Steam until the grains are Boiled Bice. J cupful rice, 1 teaspoonful salt, 4 cupfuls boiling water. Wash rice thoroughly and gradu- ally add to boiling water, care being taken that the water does not stop boiling. Cover and cook twenty min- utes, or until grains are soft. Turn int» a strainer and drain, put in oven a few moments to dry, with oven door open. Turkish Filaf. i cupful rice, f cupful tomatoes, stewed and strained, 1 cupful brown stock, lightly sea- soned, 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Add tomato to stock, and heat to boiling point; add rice, and steam till soft; stir in butter with a fork, and keep uncovered that steam may es- cape. Serve in place of a vegetable, or as a border for curried or fricas- seed meat. — Fannie M. Fabmeb. Bice Timbales. 1 cupful rice, i teaspoonful salt, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful butter. Place the rice in a double boiler over the fire, cover ■with cold water, boil five minutes, then drain it on a sieve, rinse off with cold water, re- turn to saucepan again, cover with i pint water, add the salt and boil till tender; add the egg and butter to the mixture, fill the rice in small tim- bale forms, set them in a pan of water so the water reaches halfway up the forms, place the pan in a hot oven, and bake ten minutes. Unmold and set the timbales in a circle. Bice a la Creole (Southern recipe). 1 onion, 1 slice cooked ham, CEREALS AND FLOUR PASTE 51 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 cupful cooked rice, 1 can tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful salt, Dash of Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Chop the onion and ham fine; put in a saucepan with the butter; add the Tice and tomatoes, salt, and pap- rika. Mix and heat thoroughly. Then put in a baking dish, cover with bread crumbs, and put in the oven for fifteen minutes. The tomatoes should be stewed until thick before mixing. Manana Land (Mexican recipe). 1 tablespoonful olive oil, 1 sliced onion, 8 green peppers, 1 cupful uncooked rice, i can tomatoes. Fry in the olive oil the onion and green peppers, chopped fine; to this add the imcooked rice, and stir con- stantly until the rice is nicely browned; then put in the tomatoes, fill up the skillet with rich soup stock, and cook slowly, without stir- ring for an hour. — ^Mat E. Soitth- WORTH. Sice Milanaise 7ashlon. 1 cupful rice, S tablespoonfuls butter, 1 onion, 1 quart stock, 1 teaspoonful salt, S tablespoonfuls butter, J cupful grated cheese. Cook the rice in a quart of cold water, stir until tim.'beiling point is reached, and let boil--tfiree or four minutes, then drain and rinse in cold water and turn on a cloth to dry for a few minutes. Put the butter into a stewpan; cook in it until softened and slightly yellowed, a slice of onion chopped fine; then add the rice and stock and salt; cook until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed; add the butter and grated cheese. Lift the rice with two forks to mix the butter and cheese evenly. Vary the dish occasionally by adding a cup of strained tomato with the broth and two tablespoonfuls chopped green pepper with onion. Spaghetti a la Italien (Neapolitan recipe). i cupful dried mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 onion, 1 clove garlic, 1 pound chuck steak, 2 slices bacon, 1 cupful tomatoes. Salt, Paprika, Pepper, 1 package spaghetti. Soak the mushrooms in a cup of tepid water for fifteen minutes; put the butter into a frying pan; when melted, add the onion and garlic, cut fine. Let this cook to a straw color, then add the meat and bacon, cut into finger lengths. Let this cook about five minutes, add the tomatoes and simmer slowly for about fifteen minutes. Then add the mushrooms, together with the water in which they have been soaked. Season very lightly with salt, pepper, and pap- rika. Let this simmer slowly for an hour ^nd a half. During this time cook the spaghetti in about 2 quarts boiling water to which 3 ta- blespoonfuls salt have been added. Cook twenty minutes, then pour in a colander and blanch with . warm water. When the sauce has cooked sufficiently, take a large platter, spread half of the spaghetti upon it, and pour over it some of the sauce. Now sprinkle upon this grated cjieese. Add the remainder of the spaghetti, finish with sauce and cheese, and serve. Macaroni ^toiliana (Italian recipe). 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 tablespoonful butter, 3 pounds beef, 1 quart tomatoes. 52 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Bay leaf, 3 cloves, 1 pound macaroni, 1 pound grated Swiss cheese. Slice very thin the onion and car- rot; put in a pot with the butter and let it fry, then put in the beef that has been cut in thick slices. Stir un- til it has browned nicely, add the to- matoes, bay leaf, cloves, salt, and peppers to taste. Stew slowly for two hours or more, till the sauce gets thick. Strain through a sieve until the sauce is free from the meat. Take the macaroni and boil for twenty minutes, salt to taste. Drain off the water, and put it in a large, deep dish; pour over it the sauce and put in grated cheese. Mix all thor- oughly, and serve hot. Macaroni Ravioli (Italian recipe), i package macaroni, i Parmesan cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 13 chicken livers (parboil), 2 stalks celery, 1 onion, i carrot, § turnip. Pepper and salt. Mince the livers and vegetables fine, and put them in a saucepan to cook in a little butter. Blanch the macaroni; add pepper and salt and let it drain. Lay some macaroni in a baking dish, then a layer of the liver and vegetables, then the cheese, and so on till the dish is full enough. End with a layer of cheese. Set the dish in the oven and let it cook for a few minutes. Brown on top and serve very hot. UacaTOui a la ITapolitalue (Italian recipe). 1 pound macaroni, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 onion, 4 tablespoonfuls gra,ted Parme- san cheese, Pepper and salt, 1 cupful cream. Put the macaroni into boiling water, add butter, salt, and onion stuck with cloves. Boil for three quarters of an hour; then drain the macaroni and put into a saucepan with cheese, nutmeg, salt, and cream. Let stew gently a few minutes, and serve very hot. Macaroni with Tomatoes. Break half a pound of macaroni into inch lengths and boil in salted water until tender. Drain, and put a layer of the macaroni in the bot- tom of a greased pudding dish, sprinkle with pepper, salt, onion juice, and grated cheese. Cover all with a layer of stewed and strained tomatoes that have been previously seasoned to taste. On these goes an- other layer of macaroni, and so on till the dish is full. The topmost layer must be of tomatoes sprinkled witli crumbs and good-sized bits of but- ter. Set in hot oven, covered, for twenty minutes, then bake, uncov- ered, until the crumbs are brown. — Marioit Harland. Spaghetti with Cheese. i pound spaghetti, i cupful Swiss cheese, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Dash Mcllhenny's T a b a s co Sauce. Break the spaghetti into bits and boil in salted water. Grate the cheese and turn into a saucepan with the butter. Stir well, add the hot spaghetti; just long enough to melt the cheese; add tabasco, and serve very hot. Spaghetti with Chicken. J package spaghetti, 3 cupfuls chicken stock, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 cupful cold chicken, 1 egg- Boil the spaghetti until tender; drain, drop in cold water, and drain again. Cut into half-inch pieces. CEREALS AND FLOUR PASTE 53 Thicken the stock with flour and but- ter. Stir in the chicken chopped fine and macaroni. Beat in the egg, whipped, remove from the fire, sea- son to taste, turn into a buttered dish, sprinkle crumbs over the top, and bake half an hour. cooked down, add the stock. Boil the macaroni until tender, then plunge in cold water to blanch. Place on a large platter, strain the hot sauce over it, and cover the top with grated cheese. — May E. South- WOBTH. Spaghetti Piquante. i pound spaghetti, 1 teaspoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful flour, 3 cupfuls beef stock, 4 tablespoonfuls tomato catsup, 6 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 teaspoonful kitchen bouquet, Pinch salt. Dash paprika. Break spaghetti into small bits. Boil until tender, in salted water. Drain and keep hot while you make the following sauce: Cook together the butter and flour; when blended pour the stock and stir until smooth, then add the catsup, tabasco, kitch- en bouquet, salt, and paprika. Turn the spaghetti into this sauce, stir and pour the mixture into a dish. Sprinkle buttered crumbs and grated cheese over the top, and bake till brown. Entrades (Mexican recipe). i cupful olive oil, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 green onions, 1 spray parsley, 1 stalk celery, 1 leek, J garlic, 1 green pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful Spanish sausage, J cupful stock, I package macaroni, Edam cheese. Make a sauce of olive oil and but- ter heated together; in this fry the onion, parsley, celery, leek, garlic, pepper, all chopped fine. Season with salt and the sausage. After it is well Baked Uacaroni. i pound macaroni, 1 quart stoclc, 1 tablespoonful butter. Break the macaroni into inch lengths. Boil till tender in stock. Drain, put the macaroni In a dish; pour over it J cupful stock in which it was cooked, add the butter, in small pieces, here and there through it. Sift over it fine bread crumbs and grated cheese. Dot with bits of butter and brown. Oatmeal. i teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful oatmeal, 4 cupfuls water. Put the boiling water in a granite pan, salt it, then scatter in the oat- meal. Allow it to cook six minutes, stirring steadily. Into the fireless cooker saucepan set the oatmeal dish, cover with a plate, and pour in boil- ing water to surround it till it al- most reaches the top of dish. Cover, set on the stove and let the water boil five minutes, then place in the fireless cooker and leave there for five hours, or if required for break- fast, till morning. If it is not quite hot enough, set the cooker saucepan on the stove and let the water in the other vessel boil for a few minutes; then serve. Quaker Oats. 2J cupfuls boiling water, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful Quaker oats. Cook in exactly the same way as oatmeal. 54 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Cream of Wheat. 2J cupfuls water, i teaspoonful salt, i cupful cream of wheat. Prepare after the same fashion as oatmeal, and give four hours in the fireless cooker. Cracked Wheat. 4 cupfuls cold water, 1 cupful cracked wheat, 1 teaspoonful salt. Pour the cold water over the wheat and let it stand six hours. Put it in a granite pan as used for oatmeal and set it on an asbestos mat over the fire, allowing it to cook and swell for two hours, stirring occa- sionally. Cover closely, set into the fireless-cooker saucepan, pour boil- ing water aroimd it, let it boil up. then put into the cooker and allow it to stand over night. Indian Heal. 3i cupfuls water, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful cornmeal. Bring the water to a boil, stir the meal slowly into it, being careful that it does not lump. Boil half an hour, stirring frequently, set into the saucepan of cooker with water around it and leave it over night. Tine Hominy. 4 cupfuls water, 1 cupful hominy, 1 teaspoonful salt. Treat this cereal in the same fash- ion as others, leaving in the cooker over night. CHAPTER VII CEREAL LEFT-OVERS The appetizing dishes which may be evolved from a small left-over of any cereal are many. Even a few spoonfuls of well-cooked cereal can be utilized in gems or griddlecakes, or can be fried in butter and eaten hot with maple sirup. Set it away carefully, covering tightly. An ex- cellent plan is to keep three baking- powder tins — a quarter, half, and pound size for this purpose. The va- riety in size will fit the amount of the left-over. Brush the can inside with butter, pack in the cereal while hot, and cover. When needed, slip it out of the can, cut in half-inch slices, and roll in flour to dry. Dip in egg and crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Eat with maple sirup. Cream of wheat, mush, hominy, wheatena, Quaker oats, flaked rice, farina. Pet- ti John, Ralston's food, wheatlet — in- deed, any of the large variety of cooked breakfast foods can be made palatable in this way. If the left- over only amounts to a cupful, com- bine it with flour as given in oatmeal muffins and you will have a most sat- isfactory hot breakfast bread. Served with bacon these second-day prep- arations of cereals form a very nice relish. The uses of cold rice cannot be enumerated. There are so many methods of transforming it into at- tractive dishes that many housewives while preparing hot rice for the ta- ble, cook a double portion and re- serve it for various uses. A cupful of rice is a pleasant addition to many hot breakfast breads. It may be made into delicious pud- dings, fritters, pancakes; mixed with a cupful of cold tomato or even left-over tomato soup, well 56 seasoned, sprinkled with cheese and buttered bread crumbs and baked till brown, when it appears as a pal- atable entree. It can be utilized for croquettes, drop cakes, for a, thick- ening to soup and stews; it may be curried, worked into left-over meat dishes, and even changed into ice cream. Macaroni and spaghetti left- overs make good richomfis. With the addition of a few spoonfuls of milk and water, cold macaroni cooked in white sauce or spaghetti, which made its first appearance in tomato sauce, may be reheated in the double boiler, a spoonful of each put in a ramequin dish, then covered with grated cheese and baked. Rice with Cheese Crust. 3 cupfuls boiled rice, 1 cupful milk, 2 eggs. Pepper, Salt, 1 cupful grated cheese, 1 tablespoonful butter. Put the rice in a double boiler and cook it in the milk till smooth and soft. If there are any lumps in the rice, beat with a wire whisk. Add the weU-beaten eggs and the salt and pepper. Pour into a shallow baking pan, sprinkle the cheese lightly over the top, dot with morsels of butter, and bake till the top is delicately brown. This makes a nice entree. Eice with Cheese. 3 cupfuls cold rice, 1 tablespoonful butter. Dash cayenne and salt, 56 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 cupful grated cheese, 1 cupful milk, J cupful buttered cracker crumbs. Reheat the rice in a double boiler. Butter a. pudding dish and cover the bottom of it with rice; dot with scraps of butter; sprinkle with grated cheese, cayenne, and salt, and repeat until the rice and the cheese are used up. Add the milk, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake twenty minutes. Kice Griddlecakes. i cupful cold rice, 3 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, J teaspoonful salt, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, IJ cupfuls milk, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Sift together the dry ingredients; work in the rice with the tips of the fingers. Add the well-beaten egg, milk, and butter; beat well; cook on a griddle. Kice with Sate Sauce. Take cold rice, put it in a double boiler with a little milk, and let steam till the milk is absorjjed. Sweeten to taste and add a dash of nutmeg. Press the rice into buttered cups. Turn out and serve hot, indi- vidually, with a lemon sauce in which cut dates have been stewed for a few minutes. This makes a nice dessert. Rice Waffles. li cupfuls flour, 1 cupful cold rice, 1| cupfuls milk, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, i teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 1 egg. Sift the flour, sugar, baking pow- der, and salt. Work the rice with the tips of the fingers. Add the yolk of the egg, well beaten, milk, butter, and, last of all, the white of egg, beaten stiff. Cook on hot waffle irons. Sice Gems. 1 egg. 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 1 cupful cold rice, 1 cupful flour, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, J teaspoonful salt. Beat the eggs till light, add the milk and butter. Beat the rice with this until smooth, then sift in the salt, flour, and baking powder. Bake twenty minutes in hot gem pans. Rice Bread. 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 1 cupful cold rice, 1 cupful cornmeal, J cupful flour, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder, i teaspoonful salt, li cupfuls milk. To the yolks of the eggs, beaten well, add the milk and but;ter, rice, corn, and flour. Whip thoroughly, add the salt and baking powder, and last the whites of the eggs beaten to .a stiff froth. Pour into shallow pans; allow the batter to spread only an inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Cut into squares when baked, and serve hot. Bice and CoTnmeal Uuffins, i cupful white cornmeaj, i cupful flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 cupful cold rice, IJ cupfuls milk, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Sift the dry ingredients together, rub the rice in lightly with the tips CEREAL LEFT-OVERS 67 of the fingers till every grain is separated. Beat the yolks of eggs till thick, mix with the milk, pour over the dry ingredients, and beat well. Add the melted butter, and last the whites of the eggs beaten to a dry froth. Bake in hot oven. Cream Rice Pudding. 2 tablespoonfuls cold boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Yolk 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 3 cupfuls milk, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can vanilla. Put the milk with the cold rice in a double boiler, add the sugar and salt. When it boils, add the corn- starch wet in a few tablespoonfuls cold milk. Just before it is ready to take from the fire, add the egg and flavoring. Eat cold with whipped nice Croq-aettes. li cupfuls cold rice, J teaspoonful salt. Yolks 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter. Put the rice in a double boiler with a little milk and let it cook until the rice has absorbed the milk. Remove from the fire, add the beaten egg yolks and butter, and spread on a plate. Shape into balls, roll in crumbs, then dent with the finger till the croquette is like a small nest. Dip in egg, then in crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve hot with a cube of jelly in each nest. Oatmeal Muffins. i cupful scalded milk, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, i teaspoonful salt, J yeast cake dissolved in i cupful warm water, 1 cupful cold oatmeal, 2J cupfuls flour. Scald the milk and add it to the sugar and salt; as soon as it grows lukewarm, add the yeast. Work the flour into the oatmeal with the tips of the fingers and add to the milk. Beat thoroughly, cover, and allow it to raise over night. In the morning pour into greased iron gem pans and Set in u warm place to raise. Bake half an hour. Farina Muffins. 1 cupful cold farina, 2 cupfuls flour, 3 eggs, i teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, I cupfuls milk. Sift the dry ingredients together and work in the farina. Add the butter, milk, and yolks of the eggs; at the last minute the beaten whites of the eggs. Pour into greased gem pans. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Fried Mush and Bacon. Cook slices of bacon in the spider. Lift them out and lay on a hot plat- ter. Cut cold mush in neat slices, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs. Fry in hot fat till brown and crisp on both sides. Drain on soft paper and serve with the bacon. This makes a delicious breakfast dish. Pried Mush. If there is any cornmeal mush left from breakfast, do not scrape it in cold spoonfuls into a bowl; reheat and allow it to become smooth, then pour into a square cake tin; calcu- late the amount of mush to the size of the tin, so it will make a cake two inches in depth. Cover when it cools and set in the refrigerator. When it is needed for breakfast or supper, cut into squares about four inches in size and roll them in flour until dry. Drop into smoking hot fat and fry brown. Drain, and serve hot with maple sirup. 58 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Kaised Hominy Unffins. I cupful cold hominy, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful scalded milk, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, i teaspoonful salt, § yeast cake dissolved in i cupful lukewarm water. Warm the hominy in a double boiler and break it into grains in a mixing bowl. Add the butter, milk, sugar, and salt. When it is luke- warm, stir in the yeast and enough flour to make a thick batter. Let it stand over night. In the morning fiU gem pans two thirds full, set to raise in a warm place, and bake in a moderate oven. Hominy in Cream Sanee. 3 cupfuls cream sauce, 2 cupfuls cold hominy. Make a cream sauce and into it stir the hominy. Reheat in a. double boiler and serve very hot instead of potato. Hominy Oriddlecakes. 4 cupful cold hominy, 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls sour milk, li teaspoonfuls soda, 2 cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt. Warm the hominy and mix with it the well-beaten eggs. Sift in the flour and salt, alternating with J cupful milk till the mixture is ready to beat; at last stir in the soda dissolved in a tablespoonful warm water. Bake on a hot greased griddle. Bat with maple sirup. macaroni and Celery. 1 cupful boiled macaroni, 1 cupful celery, 1 cupful white sauce, J cupful buttered bread crumbs. Salt and pepper, i cupful grated cheese. Cut the celery into inch pieces and boil for ten minutes in salted water. Drain and lay in a dish with the- macaroni stirred lightly through it. Over it pour the white sauce; season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle over the top buttered crumbs and grated cheese. Bake till the top is deli- cate brown. Savory Macaroni. 2 cupfuls cold macaroni, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Pepper, Salt, Paprika. Melt the butter in an omelet pan. Put in the macaroni, dust with pep- per, salt, and paprika. Let it brown slightly, tossing it with a fork while it cooks. Serve very hot as a side dish; sprinkle with grated cheese. Creamed Kacaroni on Toast. IJ tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cupful milk or cream. Salt and pepper, 1 cupful cold macaroni, J cupful grated cheese, 6 slices toast. Make a white sauce from the but- ter, flour, and milk. Chop coarsely the macaroni, add to it the white sauce, and allow it to' cook for ten minutes. Pour over the buttered toast, and dust liberally with grated cheese. Set on the top shelf of the oven for a few minutes, and serve very hot. macaroni and Chicken. 1} cupfuls cold chicken, li cupfuls macaroni, li cupfuls cold tomato sauce, J cupful buttered crumbs. Butter a baking dish, put in a layer of macaroni, then a layer of cold chicken cut in small strips, then a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce. Repeat in the same order till the dish is full, making the top layer maca- roni. Cover with crvunbs and bake CEREAL LEFT-OVERS 59 till the top is brown and crusty. No seasoning is given in this recipe, be- cause usually tomato sauce is well ■flavored. Uacaroni Croquettes. 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 cupful milk. Yolk 1 egg, ■2 cupfuls chopped macaroni. S tablespoonfuls cheese. Pepper and salt. If the macaroni is the remainder of a dish of tomato and macaroni or a well-seasoned cheese dish, it will be the more tasty. Make a thick sauce from the flour, butter, and milk, beat in the egg and cheese. Mix thor- oughly, spread to cool, flour, egg, crumb, and fry. Serve very hot with tomato sauce. CHAPTER VIII EGGS When We consider that nine eggs are equal in nutritive value to a pound of meat, we realize they are not only capable of forming a most important item in everyday diet, but also an economical food during the season when eggs are cheap. Even when eggs are expensive, it is econ- omy to use only th- best grade. Eggs a, Soup Pot; b, Colander; c. Meat Cleaver; d. Meat Board with Handle to Hang By; e. Meat Saw. that cost fifty cents a dozen are cheaper than eggs at twenty-five cents where half of the dozen may be stale or worse. There are a num- ber of household tests of the fresh- ness of eggs. The most reliable is to candle them. Hold the egg in the hand with tlie fingers wrapped about it and look through it against a bright light; in a perfectly fresh egg, you can see the yolk like a golden ball and the white about it clear as water. Or you may drop an egg into a basin of water; if perfectly fresh, it will sink and rest on its side. If it rolls around standing on its end, it is comparatively fresh; if it floats, you had better discard it unopened. When an egg is per- fectly fresh it has a porous, dull surface; if shiny, it is pretty sure to be at least stale. There are three ways in which eggs are generally used for breakfast or luncheon dishes; in a soft-boiled condition as in a poached egg, hard boiled as in a salad, or with the yolk and white separated and beaten to a froth as in an omelet. Eggs are most digestible in the soft-boiled stage, but to many difficult of digestion when hard boiled. They are deficient in fat; therefore we find them served with bacon, with en oil mayonnaise in salad, or with bread and butter. Indeed, their highly concentrated, nutritive prop- erties demand alvy^ys an accompani- ment of some starchy food, such as potatoes or biead. Poached Eggs. A deep spider is the best utensil in which to poach eggs. Fill it nearly full of boiling water which has been slightly salted. Add a few table- spoonfuls of vinegar, which will pre- serve the color of the white of the egg, break in a saucer, and drop into boiling water, cooking slowly, until the whites are like jelly. Poached Eggs Ball-Shaped. Have a shallow saucepan half full of water; add salt and a few table- spoonfuls of vinegar. When the water is boiling, stir with a wooden spoon until you start a sort of whirl- pool, then into the center of it drop an egg from a cup. The egg will cook in a rounded form. . When the 60 EGGS 6] white is set and before the yolk is cooked, lift it from the water and set it on a slice of toast. Sggs Poached in Ililk. Instead of using water to poach eggs, drop them into boiling milk; as soon as the egg is set, lay it on a slice of toast Thicken the milk with a little cornstarch, add butter, salt, pepper, and a dash of celery salt; pour it over the eggs and around the toast. Frizzled Beef with Poached Eggs. i pound finely chipped beef, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. Put the butter to melt in a sauce- pan, add the flour and stir it to a paste, then put in the milk, scalding hot, and beat with a wire whisk un- til creamy. Add the beef and stir for a few minutes. Turn into a deep platter and cover the top with poached eggs. Eggs in Bamec[Tiins. Butter small ramequins and drop a raw egg into each one, being care- ful that it remains whole. Set the ramequins in a pan of boiling water and put it in a hot oven until the eggs are set. Put a dab of butter on each one and a dust of pepper and salt before taking from the oven. Eggs Baked in Green Peppers. Cut off the stems of green peppers, scoop out Uie seeds and ribs, and par- boil until tender. Break an egg intoi each one. Set them in a baking pan with 4 cupful boiling water poured around. In fifteen minutes the eggs should be firm. Set each one on a slice of buttered toast and, if you wish, pour white sauce or tomato sauce about them. Eggs in Tomato Sauce (Spanish rec- ipe). Cover the bottom of an earthen baking dish with well-seasoned to- mato purie. Arrange on it poached eggs, leaving spaces to show the red color. Lay between the eggs small sausages, already cooked. Place a bit of butter on each egg and set the dish in the oven to heat. Eggs with Bread Sauce. 1 cupful bread crumbs, IJ cupfuls milk, J teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful onion juice, 6 eggs. Put the bread crumbs in a sauce- pan, then add the milk, salt, a. dash of cayenne, and the onion juice. Simmer slowly till thick and smooth, beating several times with a spoon. Pour the sauce into a. broad, shallow dish and break the eggs carefully over it. Place in a hot oven until they are set. Eggs Baked in Tomatoes. Pick out several well-shaped toma- toes, cut off the stem ends, and with a spoon lift out enough of the pulp so that each shell will hold an egg. Drop it in carefully, sprinkle with pepper and salt, put a dab of butter on top of each; place the tomatoes in a baking dish and pour the water around them. Cook until the eggs are set and the tomatoes soft. Lift each one on a slice of buttered toast, and serve. Eggs on B.ice. Butter a baking dish, fill it half full with well-seasoned boiled rice; make as many depressions in the rice as there are people to be served; break an egg into each one, sprinkle with salt and strew with bits of but- ter. Bake until the eggs are set. Eggs and Mushrooms. J cupful milk, 1 pound mushrooms. 62 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 tablespoonf ul butter, 6 poached eggs. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Peel and wash the mushrooms; place them in a saucepan and cook gently, with the butter, milk, a pinch of . salt and tabasco. Cook ten min- utes, thicken with flour, let come to a boil, then pour on a hot platter. Have your poached eggs ready; serve on top of the sauce, the mushrooms being in the middle. Cheesed Eggs. Place in a serving dish a table- spoonful butter and several slices rich cheese. When it is melted, break whole eggs into it; put the dish into the oven or before the fire. When the white sets, sprinkle grated cheese and pepper on them. Brown on top, and serve. Eggs a la Bonne Pemme (French recipe). Cut an onion in dice; fry with a tablespoonf ul butter; add a table- ^oonful vinegar; then butter a dish lightly, spread the onions over it, break in the eggs, and put the dish in the oven. When the eggs are done, strew over them fried bread crumbs, and serve hot. Eggs in Nests. Separate as many eggs as are need- ed for this dish and beat the whites to a stiff froth. Drop irregularly on a flat buttered baking dish, dust with pepper and salt here and there, in the middle of the white, slide in carefully the raw yolks. Put a tiny bit of butter on each yolk. Place the dish in a hot oven for eight minutes. Serve immediately. If de- sired, the froth may be piled into individual dishes with the yolk in the center of each and baked as de- scribed. Boiled Eggs. If the eggs have been set in a re- frigerator, drop them in warm water for a few minutes before boiling, as the sudden change of temperature is liable to crack the shells. Put them into a saucepan where the water is boiling, and if you wish them soft, cook gently for three and a half minutes. Poached Eggs vritb Greens. For this dish use outer leaves of lettuce; wash them thoroughly and boU until tender in salted water. Drain, chop fine, and season with salt, pepper, and butter. Toast a few slices of bread, butter them, cov- er with the chopped greens, and on top of each drop a poached egg. Tried Eggs. Fry thin slices of bacon to a crisp, lift them out and lay on a hot plat- ter. Break into the pan as many eggs as you need; let them cook until the white is set, and baste with hot fat till a film forms over the yolk. If you like them turned, run a knife under each and reverse quickly. Cut off the ragged edges and serve on a platter with the crisp bacon. Tried Eggs with Brown Sance. Fry eggs in butter in a spider, lift them and keep hot over boiling wat- er. If there is not enough gravy in the pan, put in a little more butter, 1 tablespoonful vinegar, a dash of onion juice, salt, pepper, and a few drops of Mcllhenny's Tabasco. Thicken slightly with flour, beat till creamy, and strain the brown gravy over eggs. Baked Souffle of Eggs. 6 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful butter. Pepper and salt. Scald the milk in a double boiler, add to it the ydlks of eggs, beaten till thick, also the butter and season- ings. When the mixture begins to thicken like a custard, stir in the whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff EGGS 6J froth. Pour into a deep buttered baking dish and bake in a moderate oven till puffy and brown. Serve immediately. Scrambled Eggs. 4 eggs, i teaspoonful salt. Dash pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls milk. Whip the eggs just enough to break them up; they do not need to be light or frothy. Put the butter into an omelet pan, and when it is brown pour in the egg. Scrape the cooked eggs from the bottom of the pan, tipping it so the uncooked egg will run down on the hot iron. Dou- ble it over before it begins to get brown, and serve very hot. Deviled Eggs. 5 hard-boiled eggs, i cupful white sauce. Salt and pepper. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls grated cheese. Chop the eggs coarsely, sprinkle the cheese through them, and toss the mixture together with a fork. Add the seasonings, then stir in the sauce. Put in a saucepan, simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve on slices of buttered toast. Eggs Farci (French recipe). 6 hard-boiled eggs, i teaspoonful onion juice. Pepper and salt, 4 tablespoonfuls stale bread criunbs, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped par- sley, Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Shell the eggs, cut them in halves lengthwise, remove the yolks and mash them. Add the bread crumbs, soften with a little milk, the season- ings, and parsley. Mash the yolk and bread mixture together till pas- ty, fill it into the whites of the eggs. and with what is left make a small mound in a baking dish; set the stuffed eggs on top, pour a white sauce over them, and set in the oven till piping hot. Curry of Eggs. 6 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful curry powder, i teaspoonful onion juice. Pepper and salt, 1 cupful veal or chicken stock. Melt the butter in a saucepan, blend with the flour, put in the stock and seasoning, and beat the sauce till creamy. Lay on eggs cut in slices, cook to the boiling point, and serve hot on buttered toast. Eggs Lucaniau (Italian recipe). 5 eggs, 1 cupful macaroni, i cupful grated cheese, Ij cupfuls white sauce. Boil the eggs hard, cutting in eighths, lengthwise, then add the macaroni, cheese, and sauce; season with salt, paprika, onion juice, and anchovy essence. Turn into a but- tered baking dish, cover with but- tered crumbs, and set in the oven long enough to brown the crumbs. Eggs a la Cuba (Spanish recipe). 4 tablespoonfuls sausage meat, 1 teaspoonful minced onion, 8 eggs. Cook the sausage meat and minced onion for five minutes over a hot fire. Beat the eggs until light and add to the meat and onion; sea- son with salt and pepper; stir un- til the eggs become thick. Serve on slices of hot, buttered toast. Egg Croquettes. 6 eggs, J can mushrooms, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfids flour. MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Boil the eggs hard; chop the whites and add the mushrooms (which should be drained from liquor). Mash the yolks of the eggs through a press. Scald the mills; rub together until smooth the flour and butter; add to the milk and stir until it thickens; add the yolk of one raw egg, the whites and yolks of the boiled eggs, mushrooms, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir quickly, take from the fire, and put away to cool. When thoroughly cold, form into cro- quettes; dip in egg and bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Garnish with parsley, and serve. Omelet Rudolph (German recipe). 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 raw onion, 1 tablespoonful salt pork, 1 tablespoonful roast beef, 2 mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful grated bread crumbs, Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Into a saucepan put the butter and raw onion chopped very fine; add the salt pork, which has been slightly cooked, the beef, mushrooms, a pinch of salt, chopped parsley and tabasco, then stir in the tomato sauce and bread crumbs. Make a plain omelet; when cooked, spread with the above mixture and turn over carefully. Plain Omelet. 4 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls hot water, 1 tablespoonful butter. Pepper and salt. Separate the whites from the yolks, beat the yolks with an egg beater till thick, and whip the whites on a platter with a wire whisk until you have a stiff froth. Add the season- ings and hot water. Last of all blend in the beaten whites. Heat an omelet pan and grease with but- ter, pour in the egg mixture, tip till the eggs set evenly, then set it where it will cook slowly, turning the pan around that it may brown all over. When puffed and delicately browned on the bottom, take it from the fire and set on the top grate of the oven for a few minutes to cook to the heart. Press it with your finger; if none of the egg mixture clings, it is cooked. Score lightly down the cen- ter, and turn out on a hot platter. Omelet Chassi (French recipe). Make an omelet as described above. Before folding, spread a cupful of creamed chicken over the top, then double and turn over on a platter. Put on the top some thick, well-sea- soned tomato sauce. Bread Omelet. 6 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls stale bread crumbs, 1 cupful milk. Pepper and salt, IJ tablespoonfuls butter. Scald the milk, pour over the crumbs and allow it to soak, beat the whites and yolks separately until very light. Stir the crumb mixture into the yolks, add the seasoning, then cut in with a palette knife the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into a deep buttered baking dish and bake in a hot oven till browned on top. Oyster Omelet. 12 oysters, 3 tablespoonfuls cream, 3 tablespoonfuls strained oyster liquor. Pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. For this dish, prepare the oyster filling before beginning to cook the omelet. Strain the oysters and cut them with a scissors into small pieces. Make a white sauce from the butter, flour, oyster liquor, cream, and sea- sonings. When hot and creamy, put in the chopped oysters and cook a few minutes. Set the sauce over EGGS 65 boiling water to keep hot while mak- ing the omelet. When ready, pour over the oyster mixture, fold, and serve immediately. Cheese Omelet. Over an omelet, when ready to fold, sprinkle grated cheese with a little seasoning. Slip out on a. hot platter and sprinkle again with cheese. Set in a hot oven for a few minutes before serving. Ham Omelet. Over the top of an omelet, before the egg begins to set, sprinkle J tea- cupful minced ham; let it cook for a minute or two longer, then set in the oven as directed, and serve hot. Bismarck Omelet (German recipe). i pound bacon, 8 eggs. Fry the bacon cut in dice; beat the eggs with pepper and salt; add to the bacon, and fry all together. Stir until it gets thick, and turn out on a dish. Parsley Omelet (Scotch recipe). 4 cupful cream, 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful minced parsley. Beat the yolks of the eggs with a little cayenne and salt; add a small piece of shallot and parsley shredded fine; mix; whip the whites of the eggs and stir into the omelet, melt the butter in a frying pan, and pour in the eggs. Cook five minutes; serve very hot. Eggs Fricasseed. Put a piece of butter in a stewpan with some finely minced parsley and minced onion, 1 teacupful stock and 1 tablespoonful flour. Boil eggs hard, cut in slices, and put them in with a little salt and pepper. Beat up the yolk of an egg in J cupful cream; add this with the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, make very hot, and serve with sippets of toast- ed or fried bread. CHAPTER IX SOUPS Soup making is as much of an art as turning out fine cake or pastry, still the American housewife devotes twice as much study to the making of sweet dishes as to soup. The French woman makes a trifle of something sweet serve as dessert, while her soups are famous the world over. It is economy to be able to provide a soup which will of- ten take the place of the pUce de re- sistance in a dinner, for a fine bisque or smooth, creamy soup is a. meal in itself. Then there are the stimulat- ing thin soups which make a proper beginning to a dinner. Soup, is dir vided into several classes — soups with stock and soups without — and the va- riations which can be wrought by a clever housewife on these are num- berless. With a pot of stock on hand and the assistance of vegetables for stockless soups, even in a frugal home there may be a soup for every- day in the year. Besides, we have excellent soups made from fish, and satisfying chowders with the addi- tion of potatoes which makes the dish a full meal. In recipes for making stock, the list of ingredients for seasoning seem endless. Still, a good cook keeps on hand everything that tends to fine flavoring. Spices such as mace, bay leaves, peppers, etc., are very cheap, so are the winter vegetables that most recipes call for and they may be kept constantly on hand. In a large famUy where there is a. roast or meat dish once, perhaps twice, a day, little fresh meat is required for the stock pot if all bones and scraps are saved and utilized. Every morsel of a stew, roast with its gravy, chop and steak bones, carcasses of chick- en or game, and the trimmings from meat, which a housewife pays for and should insist on having, are all grist for the soup pot. The meats to avoid using are bits of raw lamb or mutton with fat on them, which gives a disagreeable flavor, also smoked or corned meat. Scraps of bacon, cold ham, or even calf s liver may be add- ed; they give a touch of good flavor- ing. Several utensils are a necessity for soup making. First there is a sharp meat knife, a hard-wood board, a strong purie strainer, a soup pot with a tight lid, and a strainer with a slide, which allows it to be placed across the tureen. A soup pot need not do a con- tinuous performance on the back of a stove from Monday to Saturday. It is too handy for aU sorts of fag- ends to be thrown in without being critically looked over; besides, the stock which is constantly at the boU, or very near it, does not extract the nourishment from meat and bones that cold water does. If you woidd have fine-flavored, good-colored soup, save all the scraps and keep in a scrupulously clean jar in the refrig- erator. Make soup twice a week; three times if the weather is too hot for meat remains to keep, or if they accumulate very fast. Never add a morsel of anything that has the slightest taint; it wiU spoil the whole potful. Break bones thoroughly. If you would extract all the flavor from bits of meat, put them through a, chopper. With a skewer pick mar- row from the bones. Lay the bones at the bottom of the pot. If there are any left-overs in the refrigerator of such vegetables as onions, celery, tomatoes, carrots. 66 SOUPS 67 parsnips, or peas, chop fine and add, but do not put in too much of one thing; it gives too strong a flavor to the soup. If there are'no left-over vegetables on hand, chop J cupful each of carrot, turnip, and celery, and add for flavoring, with J tea- spoonful peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, sprig of parsley, 6 cloves, and 1 chopped onion. Do not add salt till the stock is half cooked. Cover the bones with cold water and set far back on the stove where it will come to the boil slowly. Let it simmer five or six hours, strain through a fine sieve, and cool as quickly as possible. Do not remove the cake of fat from the top of the soup until you are ready to use it, then run a thin knife around the edge to loosen it. Cut into quarters and lift each piece carefully. If there are any grains of fat left on the top of the jellied stock, dampen a bit of cheese cloth and carefully wipe over the top. Floating globules of grease will ruin the finest-flavored soup. For an everyday family soup in which nourishment is the first con- sideration, it does not require clear- ing. In the sediment there is con- siderable nutriment. If it is to be cleared, set the strained, skimmed soup over the fire, mix with the white and crushed shell of one egg, a. dash of celery seed, the chopped rind and juice of half a lemon, and pepper and salt if required. Mix thoroughly, heat, and boil ten min- utes. Just before taking from the fire, pour in i cupful cold water. Pour through the finest strainer, and heat again to the boiling point be- fore using. Mutton Broth. 4 pounds neck mutton, 3 quarts water, 1 onion, 3 stalks celery, 1 small carrot. Bay leaf. Few peppercorns. Wash the mutton thoroughly, cut it up and place it in the vessel of fire- less cooker with water, allow it to boil, then skim and boil slowly fif- teen minutes. Add the flavoring and vegetables. Cook ten minutes long- er without raising the lid, set it into the cooker five hours. Kock-Turtle Soup. 1 calf's liver, 1 calf's heart. Small knuckle veal, 3 quarts water, 1 onion. Salt and pepper, J teaspoonful ground cloves, 3 tablespoonfuls brown flour. Yolks 4 hard-boiled eggs. Put the liver, heart, and veal into the saucepan of the cooker, cover with water and boil fifteen minutes. Put into the cooker for six hours. When soup is lifted out, strain it, chop the meat fine, add the chopped onion, seasonings, thicken with brown flour, and cook for a few minutes. After pouring into the tureen, add the yolks of the eggs cut in pieces, also some fine cubes of lemon. An excellent way to make this soup, as well as many others, is to leave it in the cooker over night, then strain, skim off any fat that may rise; allow it to cool, and prepare when needed for the table. Bean Soup. 1 quart white beans, 3 pints boiling water, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 slice salt pork. Wash the beans and soak over night; in the morning put them in the fireless vessel, add the pork and salt, boil ten minutes, then set into the cooker for five hours. Strain, thicken, and serve. Creole Soup. 1 quart brown soup stock, 1 pint tomatoes, 3 tablespoonfuls chopped green peppers. 68 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 3 tablespoonfuls chopped onion, i cupful butter, J cupful flour. Salt, Pepper, Cayenne, 3 tablespoonfuls grated horse- radish, 1 teaspoonful vinegar, i cupful macaroni rings. Cook pepper and onion in butter five minutes. Add flour, stock, and tomatoes, and simmer fifteen min- utes. Strain, rub through sieve, and season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just before serving, add horse-radish, vinegar, and macaroni previously cooked and cut in rings. — Fannie Mehbitt Fabmeb. Veal Soup. 2 pounds veal, 2 quarts cold water, 1 cupful chopped ham, I onion, 1 tablespoonful parsley. Pepper and salt, 1 pint cream, 3 slices carrot. Cook veal in water slowly for two or three hours. Take out the veal and add to the boiling stock ham, onion, parsley, and carrot. Let this simmer slowly for an hour, strain, then add the cream, season with salt and pepper, and serve with croutons. Consomme. 3 pounds lean beef, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 parsnip, 1 onion, 1 red pepper, 1 tablespoonful whole cloves, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, 4 stalks celery, 3 quarts water. Cover the meat with water, and simmer four hours. Add the other ingredients, and cook one hour long- er. Strain and stand over night. Next day skim off the grease, add the white and shell of one egg to clear it, boil up, strain again, and serve with imperial sticks. awn Stock. 10 pounds shin beef, 3 slices bacon. 4 onions. 3 carrots. 1 turnip, 1 bunch celery, 1 sprig parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 13 cloves. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 7 quarts cold water. Cut in rather small pieces all the meat from a shin of beef; break the bone in pieces, and put into a large pot with bacon, onions, carrots, tur- nip, celery, parsley, thyme, salt, cloves, pepper, butter, and a cupful cold water. Set it over a brisk fire, stirring frequently to prevent burn- ing. Cook until the juice from the meat and vegetables begins to thick- en. Then add cold water, set it back on the fire, where it will simmer slowly for six hours, skimming very often. Strain carefully through a fine sieve, not bruising the vegeta- bles. Next morning skim off the fat. You can make a variety of soups from this stock by adding to it maca- roni, Italian paste, or finely cut vegetables. Tomato Soup. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls onion, 1 bay leaf, 10 peppers, 1 tablespoonful chopped ham, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 can tomatoes, 3 cupfuls stock, 1 teaspoonful salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Place a saucepan, with butter and fine-chopped onion, over the fire; SOXJPS 69 cook five minutes; add bay leaf, pep- pers, ham, and flour; stir and cook two minutes; add the tomatoes; stir and cook five minutes; add salt, stock, and tabasco; cook ten minutes, then press the soup through a sieve and serve with toasted bread cut into dice. Soup h la Heine (French recipe). 1 fowl. Small knuckle veal, 4 quarts cold water, 1 tablespoonful salt, 3 leeks, 3 onions, 3 sprigs parsley, 5 blades mace, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 pint cream. Yolks 4 eggs. Place in a soup kettle the fowl, cut up knuckle of veal, and cold water; as soon as it boils, add salt, leeks, onions, parsley, and mace; cover and boil slowly; when the chicken is done, take it out, remove the meat, chop the bones, return them with the sldn to the soup kettle and boil half an hour longer. Strain through a sieve, remove the fat, return 9i quarts soup to the kettle and place it over the fire; melt butter in a saucepan, add flour, stir until the flour has absorbed all the butter; pour in slowly 1 pint stock, and stir until smooth; then add it to the soup; boil fifteen min- utes; mix the yolks of 4 eggs with 1 pint cream; season to taste with salt; draw the soup kettle to side of stove; add a little of the soup to the cream and yolks; mix well; then pour it into the soup; place the fine- cut chicken meat from the breast in tureen, pour the soup over, and serve. Vegetable Uutton Soup. 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, J cupful chopped celery, IJ quarts mutton broth. One hour before serving, cut the vegetables into slices, put in saucepan with butter and celery. Stir over the fire six minutes, then add the mutton broth, cover and cook till done, sea- son to taste and serve. Potato Cream Soup. I tablespoonful butter, 1 onion, 3 stalks celery, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 meat bone, 3 quarts cold water, 3 large potatoes, i cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. Place a saucepan with butter, on- ion, and celery over the fire; cook and stir five minutes, add salt, small meat bone, and water. Cover and cook slowly one hour, then strain the broth into another saucepan. Boil potatoes, drain and mash them fine, add with butter and milk, to the broth, cook a few minutes, season to taste, garnish with chopped parsley and serve. Soup Begue (Southern recipe). 3 pounds fowl, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 quarts cold water, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful green lima beans (par- boiled), 1 cupful sweet corn, 1 cupful diced celery, i cupful stewed tomatoes. Pepper, 1 cupful cream. Choose a young fowl, with yellow legs; after disjointing it and divid- ing the large pieces, brown it care- fully in butter, then place in the soup kettle with water and salt, and sim- mer until tender. Remove the chick- en, carefully skim the grease from the broth, and add to it lima beans, sweet corn, celery and tomato, with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until the vegetables are perfectly cooked, then the choice chicken meat 70 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK may be cut in small pieces and added to the soup, and, lastly, the cream. Soup a la Uenestia (French recipe). 2i pints mutton broth, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 stalk celery, 1 cupful fine-cut cabbage^ 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful rice. Dash pepper. Cut fine the carrot, onion, celery, and cabbage; place a saucepan with but- ter over the fire, add the vegetables, and cook ten minutes, then add the rice, mutton broth, salt, and pepper; boil slowly, well covered for one hour ; serve with grated cheese. Du Barry Soup (French recipe). 1 cupful rice, S quarts chicken stock, 1 cupful cold cauliflower, Pepper and salt, 5 cupfuls cream. Boil rice in the stock, add cauli- flower pressed through a potato ricer. Season with white pepper and salt, add cream and bring again to the boil. Serve in bouillon cups; gar- nish with small flowerets of cauli- flower. Oztail Soup a la Tabasco. 1 oxtail, 2 onions, 1 tablespoonful parsley. Garlic, 1 tablespoonful Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 6 cloves, 6 allspice berries, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 lemon. Cut the oxtail into small pieces, chop the other ingredients, and rub into a tablespoonful lard and a ta- blespoonful sifted flour. Mix thor- oughly and brown without burning. Add cloves, allspice, and salt to taste. Pry ten minutes, stirring often. Add hot water enough to make the soup. Cook from three to four hours. Put into a tureen the eggs and lemon sliced in small pieces. Pour the soup into this through a strainer, and serve. Fish Chowaer. 4 pounds fish, J pound pork, 2 onions, 1 quart potato cubes parboiled, IJ quarts water, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 tablespoonfuls Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 cupful tomatoes. Skin the fish and cut the flesh from the bones. Put the bones on to cook in the water and boil ten minutes. Fry the pork, then add the onions, cut into slices. Cover and cook five minutes; add the flour, cook ten min- utes longer. To this add the water in which the fish bones were cooked and boil for five minutes; then strain all on the potatoes and fish. Add salt and tabasco and let it simmer fifteen minutes. Add tomatoes, let it boil up once, and serve. White Soup Stock. 3 pounds knuckle veal, 1 pound lean beef, 3 quarts boiling water, 1 onion, 6 slices carrot, 1 large stalk celery, i teaspoonful peppercorns, i bayleaf, 2 sprigs thjTne, 2 cloves. Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces; cut beef in pieces, put bone and meat in soup kettle, cover vrith cold water, and bring quickly to boiling point; drain, throw away the water. Wash thor- oughly bones and meat in cold water; return to kettle, add vegetables, sea- sonings, and 3 quarts boiling water. Boil three or four hours; the stock should be reduced one half. — Fannie M. Faemeh. SOUPS 71 Puree de lentilles (French recipe). Take 6 heads celery, 3 onions, 2 turnips, and 4 carrots; put them into a stewpan with 1 pound lentils, a slice of ham, 4 tablespoonfuls butter; set it upon a stove to stew slowly for an hour, then add 2 quarts stock; let it stew for two hours; strain the soup into a dish, rub vegetables through a sieve; put again in the stewpan with salt and pepper; let it simmer for quarter of an hour long- er, and serve. Chicken Soup. Carcass roast chicken, 2 quarts cold water, 1 pound lean veal, 3 tablespoonfuls chopped bacon, 1 bay leaf, 1 slice onion, 1 stalk celery, 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, li teaspoonfuls salt, } teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Yolks 2 eggs, 1 cupful cream. Slice the best meat from fowl, leav- ing only wings and carcass, with skin removed- from meat as well. Break bones, put them into the soup kettle with cold water and the un- cooked neck and feet, scalded and cleaned. Cut veal in dice, dust with flour and pepper, and brown in fine- ly chopped bacon; add 1 cupful hot water, simmer for a few minutes, cool, and pour into the soup kettle. Cook slowly for one hour, then add bay leaf, onion, and celery; cook half an hour longer, strain, and cool. Mix together in a saucepan corn- starch, salt, pepper, flour, and but- ter. Add gradually 1 pint hot stock and cook until thickened, then add IJ cupfuls hot stock, mix well and add yolks of eggs beaten and diluted with cream. Do not boil after egg is add- ed, but keep hot until egg has thick- ened. Serve in bouillon cups, with or without a spoonful of whipped <;ream on top of each., Kullagatawny Soup. 3 quarts chicken stock, 4 onions, 1 carrot, 3 turnips, 6 stalks celery, 1 tablespoonful curry powder. Chop the vegetables, add to the stock, and put them in a saucepan over a hot fire until it begins to boil, then set aside to simmer for twenty minutes. Add curry powder and flour. Mix well, boil three minutes, and strain. In serving, add some pieces of the white meat of the chicken chopped. Soup a. la Flamaude (French recipe). Take 3 quarts veal stock, put in 1 cupful cooked spinach and 1 cupful sorrel, and let it boil till tender; sea- son with salt and while it is boiling, but about two minutes before serving stir into it a pint of cream previously mixed with the yolks of 3 eggs. Barley Broth (Scotch recipe). 1 neck mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 onions, 1 celery head, 4 tablespoonfuls barley, 2 quarts water. Soak the mutton in water an hour; cut off the scrag, and put it into a. stewpot with 2 quarts water; as soon as it boils, skim it well; let it simmer for an hour and a half, then take the best end of the mutton, di- vide in cutlets, trim off some of the fat, and add as many to the soup as you wish; skim the moment the fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of an hour after; then add the carrots, onions, turnips, celery, cut, but not too small; and barley previously washed in cold water. The broth should stew for three hours before serving; some chopped parsley may be added, and season to taste. 72 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Hutton Broth (Irish recipe). 2i pounds mutton, 1 quart water, 3 turnips, 3 carrots, 2 leeks or onions, 3 mutton chops, 1 head lettuce, 3 spoonfuls barley. Boil the mutton with a little bar- ley, slowly, for three or four hours; strain it off and remove the fat; add turnips, carrots, and leelcs, cut fine; put them, with mutton chops, into the broth, and boil till tender; when nearly done, add some lettuce, pre- viously blanched and drained; boil for ten minutes, season with salt, and serve. The vegetables should be quite thick in the broth, but cut very small. Sheep's-Head Broth (Scotch recipe). Take a cupful of barley, sheep's head and trotters, and, if the broth should be wanted stronger, a neck of mutton; put them into a pot with 3 quarts cold water; as soon as it comes to the boil, skim it well. Chop 2 carrots and 2 turnips small, a sprig of parsley and 2 onions; before you add the roots, skim it again. Boil slowly till the head is tender; take the pot off the fire and stand it near, covered closely, for a quarter of an hour before serving. The head and trotters should be served separately with whole carrots and turnips. To Prepare the Head and Trotters. They should be well singed, which is best done at the blacksmith's. Split the head down the middle of the skull; take out the brains, lay the head and trotters to soak in water all night, scrape and wash well be- fore using. Sheep's head is excellent eaten cold. Cock-a-Ieekie (Scotch recipe). 1 fowl, 4 pounds beef, 13 leeks, Dash pepper, 1 tablespoonful salt, 5 quarts water. Truss a fowl as for boiling, put it into a stewpan with a piece of lean beef, leeks cut in pieces an inch long, rejecting the coarser green part, a little pepper and salt, and water. Cover the stewpan closely and allow its contents to stew slowly four hours; then place the fowl in a tu- reen; remove the beef, pour the soup and leeks over it, and serve. Friar's Chicken (French recipe). 1 knuckle veal, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 3 onions, 4 sprigs sweet herbs, 1 quart cream, 6 yolks eggs, 2 chickens. Boil veal, carrots, turnips, onions, and a few sweet herbs to a good stock and strain it. Have ready the chick- ens, boiled tender and cut in pieces, cream and yolks of eggs beaten to- gether; add these to the broth, heat them up together, and send it to table. A little minced parsley may be added just before serving. Babbit Soup (English recipe). 1 rabbit, 1 carrot, 1 head celery, 3 onions, 1 ounce peppercorns, 1 bunch herbs, 1 tablespoonful ground rice. When the rabbit is skinned, take care to save all the blood. Cut in pieces and put into a dish with the water required for soup. Let it stand an hour; then add the blood of the rabbit, strain it through a. sieve into a soup pot, and put all on the fire; stir constantly till it boils, to pre- vent its curdling, and skim it a little; put in carrot, celery, onions, pepper- corns tied up in a bit of muslin, herbs. SOUPS 73 salt, and chopped onion. Boil for ttiree Iiours; take it off an hour be- fore dinner; strain through a sieve; take out the onions, carrot, pepper, etc., and put in some of the best pieces of the rabbit; return it to tlie saucepan, and let it boil. Stir the ground rice dissolved in water into the soup; continue stirring till re- moved from the fire. Tomato Bouillon with Oysters. 1 can tomatoes, IJ quarts brown stock, 1 chopped onion, i bay leaf, 6 cloves, 1 teaspoonful peppercorns, 1 pint parboiled oysters. Pepper and salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. * Boil together the stock, toma- toes, bay leaf, cloves, tabasco and peppercorns. Cook twenty minutes. Strain, cool and clear, then strain into cups over parboiled oysters. When cooked, clear it as if you were making a plain, clear soup. Beat the white of 1 egg lightly, just enough to separate it, and add to it the eggshell broken up. When the stock has cooled, add this and set it where it will come slowly to the boil, stirring constantly. The egg will at- tract all particles of tomatoes and everything solid. Let it boil two minutes, then strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. It wiU be perfectly clear, but with the red- tomato coloring. If it were left to cool, it would become a solid jelly.— Stella A. Dowimrc. Okra Gumbo (Southern recipe). 1 chicken, 1 onion, i pod red pepper without the seeds, • 3 pints okra, or about SO pods, 2 slices ham, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme or parsley. 1 tablespoonful each lard and butter. Salt and cayenne to taste. Clean and cut up the chicken. Cut the ham into small squares or dice, and chop the onion, parsley, and thyme. Skin the tomatoes and chop fine, saving the juice. Wash and stem the okras and slice into thin layers of half an inch each. Put the lard and butter into the soup kettle; when hot, add the chicken and ham. Cover closely and let it simmer ten minutes. Then add the chopped onions, parsley, thyme, and tomatoes, stirring frequently to prevent scorch- ing. Add the okras, and when well browned, the juice of the tomatoes. The okra is very delicate and is lia- ble to scorch if not stirred frequent- ly. When well fried and browned, add about 3 quarts boiling water and set on the back of the stove to simmer for an hour longer. Serve hot with boiied rice. Beef Oumbo (Southern recipe). Another recipe for gumbo, which is similar to the preceding one, the manipulation being practically the same, calls for the following ingre- dients: 1 quart tomatoes sliced, 3 pounds beef cut in small pieces, S quarts okras sliced, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, i pound corned ham or pork, cut up. Small piece red pepper without seeds. Spray parsley. Cream-of-Celery Soup. 1 head celery, 1 slice onion, 2 cupfuls milk, 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Clean outside stalks and white leaves of celery. Cut into smalt pieces and cook until tender in 3 cupfuls water. Scald onion in milk 74 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in double boiler. Rub the celery, when soft, through a sieve. Blend together cornstarch with butter, cook for a few minutes, lifting from fire, beating and cooking in turn. Season with salt and white pepper to taste, gradually add the strained, scalded milk, cook thoroughly, then add the strained celery stock, and reheat. Serve with croutons, bread sticks, or toasted wafers. Cream-of-Corn Soup. 1 can corn, 2 cupfuls boiling water, I teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful celery salt, J teaspoonful onion juice, 2J tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful whipped cream. Rub corn through sieve into a saucepan, add water, salt, celery salt, and white pepper to taste. Blend together in a saucepan cornstarch, with butter, gradually add the milk, and cook together five minutes, stir- ring constantly. Just before serv- ing add beaten cream. Serve with crisp wafers. Leek Soup. 3 quarts boiling water, 2 cupfuls leeks cut fine, 4 cupfuls potatoes cut in dice, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 teaspoonf uls salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 4 slices stale bread cut in small pieces, 4 tablespoonfuls minced onion. Wash the leeks and cut off the roots. Cut the white part in thin slices. Pare the potatoes and cut in dice, put them in a bowl of cold water. Put the butter, leeks, and onion in the soup pot and on the fire. Cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring frequently, then add the hot water, potatoes, and seasoning, and cook at least half an hour longer. Serve very hot. If it is Qonyenieut and liked, cook with the leeks and butter the white stalks of 4 or 5 cibols, or 1 shallot may be cut fine and cooked with the leeks. — ^Maeia Pab- Hotchpotch (Scotch recipe). 3 pounds lean beef, 3i quarts stock, 1 cupful beans (green), 2 carrots, 3 onions, 2 stalks celery, 2 turnips, 1 small cauliflower, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Mince the beef in chopper, and place in a stewpan with stock and beans. When these come to a boil, add chopped carrots, onions, celery, turnips, and cauliflower; cover, and boil gently for three hours. Melt butter and mix with it the flour; let it brown, dilute with a little broth, and add to the stew. Season with salt, pepper, and tabasco. Cream-of-Onion Soup. 3 large onions, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful white pepper, 2 cupfuls boiling water, 1 quart milk, 1 cupful mashed potatoes, 1 cupful croutons. Slice the onions and fry until lightly brown in butter, then add cornstarch, flour, salt, and pepper. Stir until slightly browned, but do not allow to burn. Pour in gradu- ally boiling water, and cook untU smooth. Keep hot. Scald milk, pour it gradually on mashed potatoes. Combine the mixtures. Simmer and stir for a few minutes, add croutons, cover, and let stand a moment be- fore serving. SOUPS 75 Soup KTorniandie (French recipe). 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 cans tomatoes, 1 quart cold water, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, 12 cloves, 1 tablespoonful sugar. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, Salt and pepper. Fry the onion in butter (do not let brown), add tomatoes and water. Boil twenty minutes. Strain through a colander, set back on stove, and add cornstarch dissolved in water, cloves, salt, and sugar. Let boil five minutes, then season with tabasco. Serve with croutons. Dried-Bean Soup. 2 cupfuls dried beans, 4 quarts water, 1 large onion minced fine, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 tablespoonful minced celery or a few dried celery leaves, J teaspoonful peppers, 2 teaspoonfuls salt. Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water. In the morning pour off the water and put them in the soup pot with 3 quarts cold water. Place on the fire, and when the water comes to the boiling point, pour it off. Add 4 quarts boiling water to the beans and place the soup pot where the con- tents will simmer for four hours. Add the celery the last hour of cook- ing. Cook the onion and drippings slowly in a stewpan for half an hour. Drain the water from the beans (save this water) and put them in the stew- pan with the onions and drippings. Then add the flour and cook half an hour, stirring often. At the end of this time mash fine and gradually add the water in which the beans were boiled until the soup is like thick cream. Then rub through a sieve and return to the fire; add the salt and pepper, and cook twenty minutes or more. Any kind of beans may be used for this soup; Lima beans give the most delicate soup, but the large or small white beans are very satisfactory and are less ex- pensive than Limas. In cold weather the quantities of beans and flavor- ings may be doubled, but only 6 quarts water are used. The result- ing thick soup can be kept in a cold place and a portion boiled up as re- quired and thinned with meat stock or milk. — Mabia Parloa. Bouillabaise (English recipe). Take 3 pounds cod, cut in pieces from 2 ounces to 1 pound each. Slice 2 good-sized onions and place them in a stewpan large enough to contain all the fish at the bottom. Add 2 ta- blespoonfuls olive oil; fry the onions light brown; put in the fish with as much warm water as will cover it well, a teaspoonful salt, dash pepper, half bay leaf, peeled lemon cut in dice, 2 tomatoes cut in slices, a few peppercorns, and i clove garlic. Boil till the liquor is reduced to one third. Then add a tablespoonful chopped parsley, let it boil one minute longer, and pour into a tureen over crou- tons. This is also good made from any white fleshed fish; the garlic may be omitted, if preferred. Oxtail Soup. I small oxtail, 6 cupfuls brown stock, J cupful carrot cut in fancy shapes, i cupful turnip cut in fancy shapes, i cupful onion cut in small pieces, i cupful celery cut in small pieces, i teaspoonful salt, \ Few grains cayenne, 1 teaspoonful Worcester- shire Sauce, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Cut oxtail in small pieces, wash, drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 76 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK dredge with flour, and fry in butter ten minutes. Add to brown stock, and simmer one hour. Then add vegetables, which have been parboiled twenty minutes; simmer until vegeta- bles are soft; add cayenne, Worcester- shire sauce, and lemon juice. — Fan- xiE M. Fabmeb. Asparagrns Cream Soup. 1 bunch asparagus, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful veal stock, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Salt and pepper. Cook the asparagus in boiling, salted water for thirty minutes. Take from water, cut off tips, and put into soup tureen. Press pulp from stalks through sieve. Scald milk, add stock. Mix flour with but- ter in a saucepan over the fire, add- ing gradually portion of scalded milk to make very smooth. When thoroughly done, add remainder of milk and asparagus pulp. Season with salt and pepper. Stir till boil- ing, then strain into the tureen. Soup Uaigre (French recipe), 6 cucumbers, 4 heads lettuce, 2 onions, blanched, 1 cupftil spinach. Sprig mint, 1 pint green peas. Small piece ham, 4 tablespoonfuls butter. Put ham and vegetables into 2 quarts water and boil four hours, then pass all through a sieve. When cooked to a purie, strain, put in 1 pint parboiled green peas, and a few slices of cucumber. Puree of Celeriac. 1 quart celeriac cut in dice. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, J cupful stock or cream. Cook the celeriac thirty minutes in boiling water, rinse in cold water, then press through a purie sieve. Put the butter in a saucepan on the flre. When hot, add the flour and stir until smooth and frothy, then add the strained celeriac, and cook five minutes, stirring frequently. Add the salt and stock, or cream, and cook five minutes longer. — ^Mabia Pabloa. Split-Fea Soup. 1 cupful split peas, IJ quarts stock, I teaspoonful salt, 3 tablespoonfuls minced onion, 3 tablespoonfuls chopped celery, 1 carrot. Place a saucepan with split peas and stock over the flre; when it boils, add salt,, onion, celery, and carrot; cover, and boil slowly until done; press the soup through the sieve; if too thick, add a little more water, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve with small squares of fried bread. Green-Pea Soup. 1 quart shelled peas, 3 pints water, 1 quart milk, 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 3 level teaspoonfuls salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Put the peas in a stewpan with the boiling water and onion, and cook until tender, which will be about half an hour. Pour off the water, saving for use later. Mash the peas fine, then add the water in which they were boiled, and rub through a purie sieve. Return to the saucepan, add flour and butter, beaten together, and the salt and pepper. Now grad- ually add the milk, which must be boiling hot. Beat well and cook ten minutes, stirring frequently. — Mabia. Pabloa. SOUPS 77 Winter Okra Soup (a New Orleans recipe). 1 can okra, 1 can tomatoes, 2 onions, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 dozen oysters, 3 tablespoonfuls rice, 1 red pepper pod without the seeds. Chop the onions and fry them in the butter. Wash the rice well, stew the onions, tomatoes, and pepper together in about 3 quarts water and 1 pint oyster water for about three hours, stirring frequently. Ten min- utes before serving, add the okra and let it come to a boil. Then drop in the oysters, boil up once, and serve. Oyster Bisque. 1 quart oysters, 1 quart milk, i cupful bread crumbs, i bay leaf, 1 sprig parsley, 1 slice onion, I quart thin cream, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 yolks eggs. Parboil oysters in their own liq- uor until the edges curl. Drain and separate the hard part from the soft, chop the hard parts fine. Put the chopped oysters into a double boiler with milk, bread crumbs, bay leaf, parsley, and onion, and let cook half an hour. Rub through a pur^e strainer and return to fire with cream. Cream together butter and flour, and add gradually some of the hot soup. Add the soft parts of the oysters, season with pepper and salt, and pour into the tureen over the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Serve with crisp crackers, browned. lobster Sisque. 2 pounds lobster, 2 cupfuls cold water, 4 cupfuls milk, i cupful butter, i cupful flour, li teaspoonfuls salt. Few grains cayenne. Remove meat from lobster shell. Add cold water to body bones and tough end of claws, cut in pieces; bring slowly to boiling point, and cook twenty minutes. Drain, reserve liquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with tail meat of lobster, finely chopped; strain and add to liq- uor. Season with salt and cayenne; - then add tender claw meat, cut in dice, and body meat. When coral is found in lobster, wash, wipe, force through fine strainer, put in a mor- tar with butter, work until well blended, then add flour, and stir into soup. If a richer soup is desired, white stock may be used in place of water. — Fannie MEnairr Fabmer. Corn Chowder. 1 can corn, 1 quart potato cubes (par- boiled), 1 tablespoonful chopped fat pork, 1 sliced onion, 1 quart scalded milk, 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Salt and pepper. Put the corn through a meat chop- per, fry the onion and the pork a light brown, strain the fat into a stew- pan, add the corn, potato cubes, the milk, seasoning, and butter, thicken with a little flour, and pour over split crackers. Lobster Chowder. 1 pound lobster, 1 quart milk, 3 crackers, i cupful butter, 1 teaspoon ful salt, i teaspoonful white pepper, i teaspoonful cayenne pepper. Boil 1 quart milk. Roll 3 crack- ers fine; mix with them i cupful but- ter, and the green fat of the lobster. 78 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Season with 1 scant teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful white pepper, and i teaspoonful cayenne pepper. Pour the boiling milk gradually over the paste. Put it back in the double boil- er ; add the lobster meat cut into dice ; let it boil up once, and serve. — Mahy J. Lincoln. Sorrel Soup (French recipe). 3 pints boiling water, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, J cupful shredded sorrel, 3 tablespoonfuls milk, 1 teaspoonful salt. Yolk 2 eggs, J cupful bread cut in dice and dried in the oven or fried in butter. Tear the tender green parts from the midribs of the cultivated sorrel; wash in cold water and shred very fine. Put half the butter in a stew- pan and add the shredded sorrel. Place on the fire and cook five min- utes, stirring frequently. Now add the boiling water and salt, and boil ten minutes. Beat the yolks of eggs well, add the milk, pour into the soup tureen, and add the remaining half of the butter cut into bits. Gradu- ally pour the boiling hot soup in the tureen, stirring all the while to com- bine the hot mixture with the egg yolk. Add the bread dice, and serve. — Maria Pahloa. Black-Beau Soup. 1 pint black beans, 3 quarts cold water, 1 small onion, 2 stalks celery or J teaspoonful celery salt, i tablespoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, i teaspoonful mustard. Few grains cayenne, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, IJ tablespoonfuls flour, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 lemon. Soak beans over night; in the morning, drain and add cold water. Slice onion, and cook five minutes with half the butter, adding to the beans, with celery stalks broken in pieces. Simmer three or four hours, or until beans are soft; add more water as it boils away. Rub through a sieve, reheat to the boiling point, and add salt, pepper, mustard, and cayenne well mixed. Bind with re- maining butter and flour cooked to- gether. Cut eggs in thin slices, also lemon, removing seeds. Put in tu- reen, and strain the soup over them. — Fannie Meeeitt Faemeh, Chicken Chowder. Take the remains of a stewed chicken, cut the meat off the bones and with a scissors clip it into small pieces; put the bones in a kettle with cold water, adding any left-over chicken gravy, and let them stew till all the good is out of the meat. Strain, add 1 quart milk to each quart chicken stock, a tablespoonful minced onion, fried with a table- spoonful salt pork, 2 cupfuls par- boiled potato cubes, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, the cut-up chicken, and flour enough to thicken slightly; salt and pepper to taste. Clam Soup. i peck clams in shells, Salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful pepper, J teaspoonful cayenne pepper, 1 tablespoonful chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 cupfuls milk or cream. Prepare the clams by boiling in the shells, and cutting as directed for clam chowder, keeping the soft part separate from the hard. Pour off 1 quart clam liquor after it settles, be- ing careful not to take any of the sediment; put it on to boil, and re- move the scum. Add 1 pint hot wa- ter, and season to taste with salt, pep- per, cayenne, onion, and parsley. Put in the hard part of the clams. Simmer fifteen minutes, strain, and SOUPS 79 boil again, and when boiling thicken with flour cooked in the butter. Add the hot milk or cream and the soft part of the clams; serve at once. Another method of preparing clam soup, if needed quickly, is to heat the clam broth to a boiling point, add the clams cut fine, season, and pour into the tureen over 2 eggs beaten up with boiling milk, — ^Mart J. Lincoln. Onion Chowder. 3 quarts boiling water, 2 cupfuls minced onion, 1 quart potatoes cut in dice, 3 teaspoonfuls salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful fine herbs. Cook the onion and butter to- gether for half an hour, but slowly, so the onion will not brown. At the end of this time, add the boiling wa- ter, potatoes, salt, and pepper, and cook one hour longer, then add the fine herbs, and serve. — Mabia Pae- Sportsman's Broth (English recipe). Take grouse, partridge, or any other game you have; cut in small joints, put them into a pot with water and plenty of vegetables whole. Let it stew slowly four or five hours; then take the best pieces you have saved out, season them and toss in a little flour; brown over a quick fire, and add to the strained stock with 12 small onions, 2 heads celery, sliced, and half a cabbage shredded fine, to stew slowly till tender. Half an hour before serving, add 6 potatoes cut in slices. Clam Chowder. i peck clams in shells, 1 quart potatoes sliced thin, A 2-inch cube fat salt pork, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful white pepper, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 quart milk, 6 butter crackers. Wash clams with a small brush, and put in a kettle with i cupful water. When the clams at the top have opened, take them out with a skimmer, and when cool enough to handle, take the clams from the shells; remove the thin skin; cut off all the black end (cut the "leather straps" into small pieces), leaving the soft part whole. Let the clam liq- uor set, and pour it off carefully. Use half water and half clam liquor. Fry the pork and onion; add the po- tatoes, which have been soaked and scalded, and boiling water to cover. When the potatoes are soft, add the clam liquor, seasoning, and clams; when warmed through, add the hot mUk, and turn into the tureen over broken crackers. — Mart J. Lincoln. Old-fashioned Bean Soup (New England recipe). 2 cupfuls white beans, 3 pints cold water, 4 ounces lean salt pork, i cupful chopped celery, i carrot, 1 onion. Soak beans for several hours in cold water; then drain and put them with the pork over the fire; wash and scald in boiling water; add to the beans as soon as they boil celery, carrot, and onion; cover and cook till the beans are tender; then strain the soup, season to taste with salt, and serve with small pieces of toasted bread. This soup may be served without being strained — some people prefer to have the beans whole in the soup. A little beef extract and J cup- ful cream is always an improvement, but the soup is very nice without them. Herb Soup. 1 cupful finely shredded spin- ach, i cupful shredded sorrel, i blanched and sliced leek. White heart leaves head lettuce, 4 potatoes, 3 teaspoonfuls salt. 80 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful chervil, 3 quarts boiling water, i pint croutons. Have the sorrel, spinach, and let- tuce fresh, tender, and free from tough midribs. Wash and shred. Cut the washed leek into thin slices. Put in the stewpan with the butter and cook fifteen minutes, being care- ful not to brown. Now add the po- tatoes, salt, and boiling water. When the soup begins to boil, draw the stewpan back where the contents will cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, crush the potatoes with a fork, add the chervil, and simmer five minutes longer. Turn into the soup tureen, add the crou- tons, and serve. If preferred, the soup maj be rubbed through a purie sieve, returned to the fire, and when boiling hot be poured on the yolks of 2 eggs which have been beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls milk. This soup may be varied indefinitely. Any number of green vegetables can be employed in making it, care be- ing taken to use only a small quan- tity of those of pronotmced flavor. — Maria Paiiix)a. CHAPTER X FISH I CAN think 6f no better lesson on how to choose fish than this: if it is possible in your neighborhood, or while vacationing, go to see a fish boat empty its gleaming cargo on the wharf. Learn to know the earmarks — not only those left by St. Peter on a haddock, but the signs of perfect freshness on all fish. Do not be afraid of touching them; fresh smelts have the fragrance of violets, and every fish has a wholesome smell. Turn them over, examine them close- ly. " An eye like a dead fish " refers to a fish which has lain for weeks in cold storage, not to one just from the water. It will have eyes as full and almost as clear as any live crea- ture. Notice the gills; they will be beautifully red, the fins will be stiff, the scales shining, and the flesh so firm that it springs back after the finger has been pressed into it. One cannot expect, especially if your home is some distance from the ocean or the great lakes, to find in the mar- ket fish as superlatively fresh as when lifted straight from the net. Still, to be fit for human food, they should not have lost much of their beauty. The signs to avoid are limp fins, dull eyes, pale, liver-colored gills, fiesh in which you leave a dent by an Impression of the finger, streaks of gray or yellow in the skin and flesh, and the slightest symp- tom of a disagreeable odor. If you have to make the choice between salt cod and a fish of this description, choose salt cod; it is infinitely more healthful; it does not contain a pos- sibility of ptomaine poisoning. When purchasing halibut or sword- fish, where the head and fins have been removed, the test is pearly white or shining gray skin, firm flesh, and a good odor. It is an ex- cellent rule never to buy fish which is out of season. If you want blue- fish in February or shad in Novem- ber, you can probably obtain it — a fish dealer will produce almost any- Garnishing a Planked Fish with Mashed Potato Squeezed Through Pastry Bag. thing from his refrigerator at any time of the year — but you may rest assured it has seen a repose of months in cold storage. If not really dangerous to eat, it will be flabby, it will go to pieces before it is cooked, and be lacking in flavor. It is an ex- cellent plan to post oneself thorough- ly on the fish which is in season all the year round and purchase accord- ing to the month. A dealer will as- sure one that fish which has been packed in ice ten days is in as ex- cellent condition as when fresh caught. I should say seven or eight days is the limit. After that time it will begin to lose its beautiful moth- er-of-pearl sheen. Although the old theory that fish is brain food has been exploded, the 81 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK brain worker will iind what he most requires in a bountiful diet of fish. It is digestible food, which is not overstimulating or overnutritive. Both the poet and preacher will do bet- ter work on a dinner of broUed bluefish than on rare roast beef. Sal- mon, mackerel, and eels, which are exceedingly oily, are an exception to the digestible rule. They should be severely let alone by people of weak stomachs, while white fish may be classed as the most digestible of all fish. The shimmering array on the mar- ket stall is alluring and confusing, and the fish dealer is apt to be persuasive. It is no economy to be inveigled into buying a 5-poimd bluefish when 2 pounds of halibut would have fed your family. Fish left over can be utilized nicely in many ways, but it is better not to have any; in simi- mer, cold fish has not remarkable keeping qualities. Decide when you order a fish how you will cook it. The fish dealer can prepare it for planking or broiling better than you can. The cheapest fish is not al- ways the most economiCEd. Five pounds of cod contains' about 3 pounds of waste in the shape of skin, head, tail, and bone, while 3 pounds of halibut is solid fish with scarcely an ounce of waste. The cooking of fish depends large- ly on taste, for various methods ap- ply frequently and most appetizingly to the same fish. Take halibut, for instance. It may be baked, broiled, fried or boiled, and be quite as de- licious in one way as another. This rule is also true of cod, haddock, and nearly every kind of white-fleshed fish. What a cook or a fish dealer calls oily fish — this class contains bluefish, mackerel, herring, salmon, eels, and shad — are best suited for broiling, baking, or planking. They contain so much oil distributed through the flesh that it requires a dry, intense heat to make them pal- atable. Salmon is an exception to this rule, being at its best when boiled. An old saying declares. " Small fish should swim twice — once in water, once in oil." It is a good proverb for the cook to remember, because it applies well to every tiny fish; smelts, brook trout, perch, whitebait, catfish, simfish, bullheads, and everything in small finny things. Sometimes these small fish are sauted, but they are not so good nor so wholesome as when they " swim in oil." The fish which plank to perfection are shad, whitefish, mackerel, blue- fish, red snapper, and pompano. There are a number of real advan- tages to this method of cooking; it is so easy, it may be done in the hot oven of any coal or gas stove, the wood imparts a flavor to the fish, which can be obtained in no other way. Then there is no difScult task of sliding it from a broiler or bake pan to the platter, because it is the proper thing to ' send the plank straight to the table laid on a folded towel. If you have to prepare a fish for planking, remember it must be cut down the back instead of the stomach, the thin portion of the flesh being folded on the middle of the plank. Improvise a fish kettle if you haven't one. Line a wire basket with a napkin, allowing the linen to fall over the edges, put in the fish, coiling it slightly if it is large, and drop the basket in a. kettle of boiling water. This is an easier method for lifting it out whole than if set right in the kettle. An oily fish, such as mackerel or bluefish, needs no enrichment of fat before broiling; a white-fleshed fish does. If it is cut in steaks, dip it in oil or melted butter and a good seasoning of pepper and salt, then put between the wires of the broiler. Lay the thickest end in the center of the broiler over the hottest part of the fire, skin side up. Let it get perfectly crisp and brown on the flesh side before turning. Broil the skin side carefully; it is apt to burn. Set it in a hot oven for five minutes to thoroughly finish cooking. FISH 83 Fish of all sorts reqviires the ac- companiipent of a starch food to make a well-balanced meal; it may be bread, rice, potatoes, or macaroni. An iron fish sheet, with rings at each end for handles, may be made by any tinsmith for twenty-five cents. Grease it well before setting the fish to cook and lay under it strips of salt pork, then set in a baking pan. You will find it easy to slip a baked fish from this sheet on a platter. When baking halibut, pour milk over and around it before setting in the oven. It keeps the fish moist, im- proves the flavor, and makes it brown more thoroughly. In spite of careful watching, a fish will occasionally break in the boil- ing. Do not try to patch it together into an unsightly heap of skin, bones, and meat. Flake it quickly and lay in good-sized portions on a large platter. Garnish with roses of mashed potatoes squeezed from a pas- try bag, and over the fish pour a sauce. This transforms an almost hopeless failure into a most attract- ive dish. The same general rules for vari- ous methods of cooking fish apply to all kinds; they may be boiled, fried, sauted, planked, broiled, or baked. Of course, after cooking by any proc- ess, a dish may be varied by one of the sauces which are to be found in a following chapter. For highly flavored fish, such as shad or salmon, use the simplest sauce; drawn butter or egg sauce is much more appetizing than a rich herb-seasoned, stock sauce, which is apt to destroy the fine flavor of fish. There are certain fresh-water fish, as weU as several white-fleshed varie- ties, cod, halibut, and haddock, for instance, that are ilnproved by a cer- tain amount of seasoning, only it must be done very carefully and with an educated palate as criterion. The following methods for cooking fish can be applied to anything that swims, though the table appended will serve as a guide: Methods fob Cooking Fish Bass May be baked, boiled, or broiled. Bluefish May be planked, baked, or broiled. Butterfish May be fried or sauted. Cod .May be boiled, broiled, or baked. Eels May be fried or broiled. Flounder May be baked, fried, or sauted. Haddock May be baked, broiled, planked, or boiled. Halibut. .'. May be baked, boiled, fried, broiled, or planked. Herring May be baked or broiled. Kingfish May be broiled. Blackfisb May be baked or broiled. Mackerel May be baked, broiled, or planked. Perch May be fried or broiled. Pickerel May be baked. Pompano May be broiled. Red Snapper May be fried or boiled. Salmon May be boiled, broiled, or baked. Shad May be broiled, baked, or planked. Sheepshead May be boiled or baked. Smelts May be sauted, baked, or fried. Trout May be baked, broiled, or sauted. Muskellunge May be baked. Turbot May be boiled. Whitefish May be planked, baked, or broiled. Sturgeon May be roasted, broiled, baked after being parboiled. Carp May be boiled or baked. Scrod May be broiled. Swordfish May be baked, broiled, or boiled. Mullet May be baked. Pike May be boiled. Whitebait May be fried. Porgies May be planked, broiled, or baked. Catfish May be fried. Alewives May be baked. 84 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK How to Flank Fish. Heat and oil an oak plank made for the purpose; spread upon this, skin side down, a fish, dressed and cleaned and split down the under side; brush over with butter or oil, and set in the dripping pan in the lower gas oven, at first near the burners; after cooking a few min- utes, remove to the floor of the oven to finish cooking. Cook about twen- ty-five minut«s, basting often. Set the plank upon a platter. Spread over the fish 3 tablespoonfuls butter, creamed and mixed with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful lemon juice. Gar- nish the edge of the plank with mashed potatoes, slices of lemon and parsley. How to Saute Tish. Fish may be fried in oil, salt pork fat, lard, or clarified drippings. Whatever fat is used, it should be deep enough to cover the fish and hot enough to brown a piece of bread in thirty seconds. The pork fat is ob- tained by trying out thin slices of fat salt pork, being careful not to let it burn. Pork gives the fish a flavor not to be obtained by any other oil or fat. When pork fat is used, salt should be added sparingly. Fried fish should be seasoned while cooking. After wiping dry, fish should be rolled in Indian meal, flour, or sifted crumbs before frying. If the fish has been on ice, or is very cold, do not put it in the fat fast enough to cool it perceptibly. Watch carefully while cooldng; don't break or mutilate in turning; cook brown, drain on a sieve, colander, or paper, and serve hot on a napkin. Unless fish are very small, they should be notched on each side before rolling in meal previous to frying. How to Broil Fish. Broiling is probably the simplest as well as the best method of cooking many kinds of fish, the flavor and juices being better preserved. Salt pork is the best thing to use. The double broiler is the best utensil. though they may be cooked on a grid- dle or a spider. Heat and butter well before laying in the fish, the flesh side first; when that is perfectly browned, turn and finish cooking. Serve on a hot platter, spread with butter or cream or both, and season to taste. A fish may be broiled in a dripping pan, and if the oven is hot it will cook nicely. Baste once or twice with butter or cream while cooking. How to Boil Fish. Boiling is the most insipid way of cooking fish, yet there are certain va- rieties that are better cooked this way if accompanied by a rich sauce. Fish, if boiled in a common kettle, should first be wrapped in cheese cloth, to preserve its shape. The head is the best part of a boiled fish, and the nearer the head the better the por- tions. Boiled fish should be served on a napkin and the sauce in a tu- reen. A fish of 6 pounds should boil or steam in thirty or thirty-five min- utes. The water should always be salted. A boiled fish may be stuffed if desired. How to Bake Fish. A baked fish presents a more at- tractive appearance when served in an upright position on the platter; it also cooks better. To keep it up- right, press it down enough to flatten the under side, then, if necessary, brace with skewers or potatoes placed against it until it is well under way for cooking, then it will keep its posi- tion until cooked and dished. Some- times it is advisable to bend the fish half-moon shape and cook it that way, or if the fish is long and slender, the tail may be tied to the mouth, either of which methods will keep the fish in upright position. How to Fry Fish. Small fish may. be broiled, but in nearly every case they are better sauted or fried. There are tiny fish, smelts for instance, which cannot be treated in any otlier way. Lard may FISH 85 be used as a frying material; a mix- ture of suet and lard is better, but best of all, if it can be afforded, is a clear frying oil, which leaves no greasy taste. To prepare a iish for frying, such as perch, brook trout, catfish, smelts, or tiny mackerel, wash in cold water, clean thoroughly, and wipe dry inside and out. Small fish must be gently handled; they are tender and the flesh bruises easily. Roll them in flour, then in beaten egg, to which a tablespoonful water has been added, and roll again in finely sifted bread crumbs. Have the oil boiling hot, put 4 fish at a time into the frying basket, and cook five or seven minutes. Do not allow them to get dark brown. Drop on absorb- ent paper and drain off as much of the fat as possible. Lay on a folded napkin on a hot platter, garnish with parsley and points of lemon. When smelts are very tiny, run a skewer through the heads of three or four of them and fry in bunches. Fish which is sliced, then cut in fillets, can be cooked in the same fashion. The easiest way to prepare it is to roll each fillet and fasten with a tooth- pick. Baked Bed Snapper. 1 S-pound red snapper, 1 beaten egg, i cupful powdered crackers, 1 cupful oysters, 1 teaspoonful onion juice, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful paprika, 1 tablespoonful minced parsley. Draw, clean, and wipe the fish; rub inside and out with salad oil and lem- on. Make a stuffing of egg, cracker, oysters (drained and chopped), onion juice, butter, salt, paprika, and par- sley; moisten with cream and oyster liquor. Fill the fish and sew it up. Put a layer of minced fat pork on the covered roaster, lay a few slices of to- mato and onion on the pork, then the fish on this. Dredge with salt and flour, and put on more minced pork. Place in a hot oven, add a cupful boiling water, and cover. Baste fre- quently. Bake one hour. Serve with Sauce Hollandaise. Baked Fresh Cod with Cheese Sauce. Lay a slice of cod in salt and water for half an hour; wipe dry and rub with melted butter and lemon juice. In the bottom of the baking pan, under the grating and not touching the fish, have a cupful veal stock. Pepper and salt the fish, cover and bake ten minutes to the pound. Take up on a hot platter and sift fine crumbs over it.- Put dots of butter on these. Set in the oven to brown while you strain the gravy from the pan, thicken with browned flour, add the juice of J lemon, 4 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese, and a little onion juice. Boil one minute, pour a few spoonfuls carefully over the crumb crust of the fish, the rest into a boat. — Makion Habland. Baked Blueflsh. This recipe will answer for all sorts of fish. Have the fish opened at the gills, and the intestines drawn out through the opening. Make a stuffing of i pint bread crumbs, a tablespoon- ful melted butter, a teaspoonful salt, and a dash pepper. Mix the ingre- dients, fill the fish, and sew the head down firmly. If you use pork, cut the fish into gashes two inches apart and all the way across on one side down to the bone; fill the gashes with larding pork, dust the fish thickly with bread crumbs, baste it with a little melted butter, put J cupful wa- ter in the pan, and bake in a quick oven about an hour, basting fre- quently. Dish the fish carefully, gar- nish with parsley and lemon, and serve with brown or tomato sauce. — Mes. Roreb. Blueflsh Baked with Tomato Sauce. Prepare a fish of about 4 pounds, put in a buttered pan, cover with to- mato pulp, sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs, and dot with bits of butter. Place in oven forty minutes. 86 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK until the flesh begins to separate from the back bone. Cod Steaks a la Cardinal (French recipe). Cut 3 pounds fresh cod into slices an inch thick; sprinkle with salt, pep- per, and lemon juice, fasten each slice with a toothpick to give it a neat shape. Brush the flsh with warmed butter, lay it on the bottom of a large saucepan, pour over it a cupful white stock, and cover closely, first with buttered paper, then with the pan lid. Simmer gently for twenty to twenty-five minutes, take skewers and arrange the fish neatly ■ on a hot dish; pour over it tomato sauce, flavored with essence of an- chovy; garnish round the edge with sprigs of fresh parsley and slices of lemon. Fillets of Flounder a la Normandy. Prepare the fillets and lay in a but- tered baking pan, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, mois- ten with brown stock, adding a tea- spoonful lemon juice; lay the fillets on serving dish, and pour over them Normandy sauce, garnish with slices of lemon. Baked Haddock. Stuff with a dressing, baste the fish with butter, put a cupful water into the pan, and bake in a moderate oven one hour, basting often; just before taking up, sprinkle a tablespoon ful cracker crumbs over the fish and let it remain in the oven long enough to brown delicately. Put the fish on a warm platter, add water and thicken- ing to the gravy, serve in a gravy tu- reen, garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. Fish Timbales. i pound halibut or other white flsh. Whites 5 eggs, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful soft bread crumbs, J cupful milk, 6 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 saltspoonful white pepper. Put the uncooked fish through the meat chopper. Boil together, until you have a smooth paste, the milk and bread crumbs. When cold, add it gradually to the fish and press through a sieve; add the cream, salt, and pepper, and fold in carefully the well - beaten whites of the eggs. Grease small timbale molds with but- ter, and line the bottoms with paper; garnish with chopped truflle, mush- rooms, or green peas, or they may be used plain. Fill in the mixture; stand in a baking pan half filled with boiling water; cover the top with greased paper, and bake in a moder- ate oven twenty minutes. Serve with lobster, shrimp, or oyster crab sauce. — ^Mbs. Robeb. Baked Halibut. Take a square piece of flsh, weigh- ing 5 pounds, wash, wipe dry, and place in the dripping pan with a few thin slices of salt pork on top. Bake one hour; baste with melted butter and water. Stir into the gravy 1 ta- blespoonful Worcestershire Sauce, juice of 1 lemon, seasoning io taste, and thicken. Serve the gravy sepa- rately; garnish with slices of hard- boiled eggs. Baked Smelts. Dip in beaten egg, roU in cracker crumbs, season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, lay on a sheet of but- tered paper in a buttered baking pan, put a piece of butter on each fish and bake delicately brown; serve on a hot dish, garnished with slices of lemon and parsley. Baked Salmon Trout with Cream. Wipe dry and lay in a pan with enough water to keep from scorching. Bake slowly an hour, basting with butter and water. Into a cupful cream stir 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls boiling water, add 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter and a little chopped parsley; add it to the gravy from the dripping pan in which fish was baked; lay the trout on n hot platter and let the gravy boU up once, then FISH 87 pour over the flsh; garnish with sprigs of parsley. Baked Shad. Stuff with a dressing; rub the fish with flour, lay in a pan with a few thin slices of pork on top. Bake a medium-sized fish forty minutes; add a little hot water, butter, pepper, and salt to the gravy; boil up and serve in gravy tureen. Garnish the fish with sprigs of parsley. A table- spoonful anchovy sauce is a decided improvement in making the gravy. Brochet of Smelts (French recipe). Spread melted butter in bottom of shallow baking dish, dredge with raspings of bread, season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and shal- lots; put in fish and pour over it a teaspoonful anchovy sauce; cover with melted butter and bread rasp- ings, and bake fifteen minutes. Serve hot; arrange the fish on a napkin, heads to heads, in center of dish, or lay them all one way in rows, each overlapping the next. Garnish with quartered lemon and fried parsley. Broiled Turbot (English recipe). Soak the fish in salted water to take off slime; do not cut off fins; make an incision down the middle of the back to prevent skin on the other side from cracking; rub it with lem- on and lay in a kettle of cold water; let it boil slowly; when done, drain, and lay on hot napkin; rub a little lobster coral through a sieve, sprinkle it over fish, garnish with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with lobster or shrimp sauce, or plain drawn butter. Baked Whitefish (Point Shirley style). Split the fish and lay open with the meat side up. Season with salt and pepper, and place in a baking pan on a bed of chopped salt pork. Bake in a quick oven, brushing it over with beaten egg and milk while cooking. Just before sending to the table, cover with crisp brown crumbs, made by frying grated bread crumbs in but- ter. Serve with oyster sauce. Crimped I'ish. Cut uncooked fish into long strips, roll them around the finger, and fas- ten each roll with a wooden toothpick. Put into boiling salted water with 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, and boU fif- teen minutes. Drain, arrange on a platter, and serve hot with oyster or lobster sauce poured into cavities. Codfish Soused in Oyster Sauce. Boil 3 slices fish; drain and dress upon a dish; blanch 3 dozen oysters by putting them into a stewpan with their juice; move them around occa- sionally, but do not let them boU. As soon as they become firm, place a sieve over a basin, pour in the oys- ters, beard and throw them into their liquor. Put them into a stewpan. When boiling, add 3 cloves, J blade mace, 6 peppercorns and 2 ounces butter, to which you have added a ta- blespoonful flour. Stir, season with salt, cayenne pepper, and essence of anchovies. Add a gill of cream, and pour the sauce over it. To Roast Sturgeon. Take the tail part, skin and bone it; fill the part where the bone comes from with stuffing, as for a fillet of veal; put buttered paper around it, and tie up like a fillet of veal. Roast, and serve with melted butter. Elouuders Souchet (French recipe). Take 4 or 6 flounders, trim and cut in halves; put i pint water in a saut6 pan with a little scraped horse- radish, pepper, salt, and sprigs of parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then add the flounders, stew ten minutes; take them out and place in a dish, reduce the liquor they were stewed in, pour over and serve. Hampton Court Perch (English rec- ipe). Clean the fish, dry well, and make an incision upon each side with a knife. Put 3 tablespoonfuls butter 88 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in a sautt pan over a slow fire, lay in the iish, season with salt, and saut6 gently. When done, serve with the following sauce: Put 6 spoonfuls melted butter in a stewpan with a lit- tle salt and the juice of a lemon; when boiling, stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a, tablespoonful cream. Add small pieces of lemon rind and shredded parsley to the sauce, pour it over the fish, and serve. Baked Shad Boe. Skin two large roes, sprinkle with salt, and stand half an hour. In the bottom of a baking pan put a layer of fine bread crumbs mixed with a chopped onion, chopped parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, melted butter, and a little lemon juice. Lay the roes on the crumbs, sprinkle with more crumbs seasoned and dressed like those in the pan. Over all pour a cupful white stock. Bake half an hour, drain off the liquid, sprinkle the roes with bread crumbs moistened with melted butter, put back in the oven for fifteen minutes to finish cooking and brown. Thicken the liq- uid that was poured off with flour blended with melted butter, and pour over the roes. Broiled Brook Trout. Wash and clean the fish, split and remove the backbone. Put a thin strip of bacon in each fish where the back- bone was, fold the fish together, brush with melted butter, and broil over a clear fire. Garnish with fried parsley, Pish Dressing. Either of the following recipes may be used to prepare a stufSng for any fish: 3 cupfuls bread or cracker crumbs, 1 cupful mashed potatoes, 1 well-beaten egg, 2 tablespoonfuls but- ter, teaspoonful sage and savory, or a little thyme, and 1 dozen chopped clams or oysters; moisten with milk, salt, and pepper to taste. For a plainer dressing, use 1 pint bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls melt- ed butter, 1 raw egg, pepper, salt, and 1 tablespoonful celery seed. -^'i '' nS^i. ibi,S~~i^-n-- -^ CHAPTER XI FISH LEFT-OVERS Fob fish richaufis it is absolutely necessary to have a thorough knowl- edge of sauces. Stews and fricassees are foods that have been cooked in a sauce, and they are excellent methods for reheating fish. When fish left- overs come from the table, pick them over carefully before they cool and become gelatinized. Reject every bone, layers of fat or dark meat, and flake the eatable portions neatly. Put in a bowl, cover closely, and set in the refrigerator till required. Gener- ally a fish richaufi with a sauce calls for a small amount of fish stock. To obtain this, put the bones and poor pieces of fish — not the skin or fat — into a small saucepan, cover with cold water, allow to simmer slowly for a few minutes, then strain and cool. Never add salt to any fish without tasting, as it is very easy to over- season it. Croquettes are an excel- lent method for using up scraps of iish, especially salmon or any white- fleshed fish. When heated in a sauce, it can be served in ramequins or large scallop shells which are sold by the dozen in crockery stores. With a crust of brown crumbs, these individ- ual dishes are very attractiye. De- licious curries, soups, and deviled dishes may be prepared from cold fish. It can be combined with mashed potatoes and crumbs in a pie; it makes a tempting louffli or excellent timbales, and may be used with cold potatoes for a relishing hash. Save even a few spoonfuls of any sauce ac- companying fish. Half a cupful egg, tomato, shrimp, oyster, or plain white sauce adds much to the flavor of fresh sauce used for reheating a dish. If the amount of fish is scant, add 2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs, using them as a garnish or cutting the white in rings and squeezing the yolk through a po- tato ricer and sifting it over the top of the dish. Sometimes there are small left-overs of cooked oysters or clams. If the oysters are in a milk stew, strain off the liquor and save it. It may be enriched by a spoonful of butter or J cupful cream. Season well and heat in the double boiler, then add the oysters, but only just long enough to heat them. More than a minute will overcook them. Oysters or clams which have been cooked in any way may be deviled, curried, or used in rissoles or chops. Chop coarsely a cupful cold scalloped oysters with a well-beaten egg and shape into croquettes. Flour, egg, crumb, and fry. Lobster meat can be utilized in almost any receipt that calls for that excellent shellfish, or converted into delicate lobster soup. The smallest amount of fish or shell- fish can be utilized for a sauce to ac- company baked fish, lobster, oyster, and shrimp being most suitable. Fish Bisque. 2 cupfuls cold fish, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful parsley, 1 teaspoonful Worcestershire Sauce, 1 quart white or chicken stock, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 cupfuls hot milk, 2 tablespoonfuls cracker crumbs, I teaspoonful salt. Dash cayenne. Mince the fish, add to it the but- ter, chopped parsley, Worcestershire Sauce, and stock. Bind with the but- 89 90 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK ter and flour cooked together. Add the milk, cracker crumbs and season- ings. Salmon Loaf. 2 cupfuls salmon, 1 cupful stale bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful onion juice, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 3 eggs. Flake the salmon fine, mix with the bread crumbs and seasonings, and moisten with the well-beaten eggs. Pack into a buttered mold and steam for two hours. Serve hot. Any left- over of this dish may be broken into small pieces, then served with mayon- naise; it makes a. palatable salad. Halibut Boudins. J cupful cold mashed potato, 1 cupful cold halibut, i cupful soft bread crumbs, •'!" i teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 egg, J teaspoonful onion juice. Mash the halibut, mix well with the other ingredients, and press through a potato ricer. Moisten with the beaten egg. Butter Dario molds and dust them with fine bread crumbs. Fill each mold with the fish mixture, set them in a pan of hot water, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot platter, pour a white sauce over them, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. Kedgeree. 1 cupful cold rice, 1 cupful cold flaked fish, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 egg, Salt and pepper. Into a double boiler put the rice and fish and let them grow quite hot, stirring lightly so the fish may not break and the mixture grow pasty. When hot, add the butter, the egg unbeaten, salt, and pepper. Stir till well blended, and serve. Halibnt Bameqnins. 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, J cupful cream, i cupful fish stock, 3 cupfuls cold flaked halibut. Yolk 1 egg. Make a white sauce from the but- ter, flour, cream, and fish stock. Pep- per and salt to taste. Add the flaked fish and egg beaten thick. Pour into ramequins and cover the top with buttered crumbs. On top lay a ring of hard-boUed white of egg, and in- side each a sprig of water cress. Fish Friandises. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 cupful scalded milk, 1 egg, 2 cupfuls cold fish, li cupftils buttered crumbs. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, and milk. When it thickens, add the well-beaten egg. Take the remains of cold baked or boiled white-fleshed fish and separate it into flakes. Put a thin layer of butter crumbs into the bottom of a baking dish, cover with the flaked fish, sprinkle with salt, paprika, and nutmeg. Pour in a layer of sauce, then fish. Alternate in this fashion till the dish is filled, and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake for twenty minutes. CuTiied Salmon. i onion, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful curry powder, 1 cupful hot water, i tablespoonful flour, i tablespoonful tomato catsup. Salt and pepper to taste, 1 cupful cold salmon. Pry the onion brown in the butter, sift in the curry and flour, pour the water in slowly, and stir till smooth. Add the seasoning, and last the sal- mon. Serve hot with toast. FISH LEFT-OVERS 91 Salmon CrocLuettes. 3 cupfuls cold salmon, 1 cupful cream, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 egg, Pepper and salt. Chop the salmon well, and make a, white sauce from the butter, flour, and cream. Cook and beat till smooth and creamy, then add the salmon and seasonings. Just before taking from the fire, add 1 well-beaten egg, and spread on a buttered plate. When quite cool, roll into small croquettes with flattened ends, flour, egg, crumb, and fry in deep boiling lard. Lobster Croquettes. 1 cupful chopped lobster, i teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful mustard. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, J cupful cream sauce. Stir the lobster and seasonings into the hot cream sauce and spread on «. plate to cool. Shape into tiny pyra- mids. Into the small end of each croquette stick a few inches of maca- roni or a. lobster claw. Fry in deep fat. Garnish with parsley or water cress. Fish Pnff Balls. 1 cupful cold flaked fish, 1 tablespoonful butter, I cupful flour, 1 cupful boiling milk, 3 eggs. Pepper and salt. Make a white sauce with the milk, flour, and butter. Season with pep- per and salt. When it has thickened, stir in the fish, then the well-beaten eggs. Fry a tablespoonful at a time in smoking hot fat, fritter fashion. i teaspoonful white pepper, i cupful olive oil, 1 tablespoonful vinegar. Flake the blueflsh neatly and mar- inate for an hour with a French dressing made from the oil, vinegar, and seasonings. Arrange on a nest of lettuce, and serve with mayon- naise garnished with chopped olives. Clam Salad. 2 cupfuls cold clams, 1 cupful shredded lettuce. Use for this salad cold steamed clams or left-overs from a Rhode Island bake. Take off the black heads and remove the skins. Serve in a nest of shredded lettuce. Marinate for ten minutes with French dress- ing, then serve. Halibut Salad. 2 cupfuls cold halibut, 1 cupful shredded lettuce, J cupful cold boiled potatoes. Flake halibut into small pieces. Shred the lettuce with scissors. Cut the potato into half-inch cubes. Mix fish and potato lightly. Lay in a nest of lettuce, and pour over it French dressing. Salmon Salad Kolds. 1 cupful cold salmon, J tablespoonful lemon juice, i teaspoonful parsley, 3 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 tablespoonful gelatin. Mix the salmon, lemon, parsley, ta- basco, and gelatin, dissolved in a lit- tle water, with enough salad dressing to moisten. , Wet J dozen Dario molds. FiU with salmon, level the top of each one, place on ice, and turn out on lettuce leaves. Serve with a mayonnaise. Blnefish Salad. 3 cupfuls cold flaked blueflsh, i teaspoonful salt, Spiced Fish. Cold salmon, halibut, or shad makes tasty dishes when flaked and 92 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK covered with hot spiced vinegar and left a day before serving. Cold fried fish is excellent served very cold. Spanish mackerel is nice in this way. Any kind of catsup or salad dress- ing may be served with it, but it is quite palatable with bread and but- ter, and makes a change from cold meat. HOW TO COOK SALT FISH Stuffed Salt Uackerel. Freshen 2 fish by soaking six or eight hours, wipe, dry, and squeeze lemon juice over the flesh side. Lay 1 fish in the bottom of a baking pan, and cover with a thick dressing made of bread crumbs well seasoned with parsley, pepper, 9alt, butter, and bits of thin lemon peel. Lay the other fish on this dressing and baste with melted butter and hot water. Bake imtil brown, remove to a hot platter without disturbing the layers, and cover the top with bread crumbs moistened in melted butter and baked brown. Garnish with parsley. Baked Salt Uackerel. Soak the mackerel in cold water over night, placing the split side down. Cut off the fins and tail. Wash and put in a baking pan with the split side up. Mix a teaspoonful flour with a little milk and stir into J pint milk. Pour this over the mackerel, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Just before the fish is done, add a teaspoonful butter. Boiled Salt Mackerel. Soak the mackerel over night; wash and put in a flat saucepan; cover with hot water, and cook slow- ly twenty minutes. Serve with cream, butter, egg, tomato, brown, or par- sley sauce. Broiled Salt Hackerel. Soak over night; wash and wipe. Broil over clear coals for twelve min- utes. Put the split side over fire first. Season with butter, and serve hot. Broiled Salt Salmon or Halibut. If iish is very salt, freshen for an hour or two in cold water; if merely smoked and slightly salted, wash and cut in small pieces about an inch thick. Season well with pepper and salt, and wrap each slice in tough paper well buttered. Twist the ends so the fish is inside a paper bag. Put in a broiler, and move over a clear fire for about eight minutes. Take the fish from the paper cases and pour egg sauce over it. Codfish Fritters. Cut the codfish into strips about the size of a finger, freshen by soak- ing over night in cold water; in the morning, dry between towels. Dip each piece in fritter batter, and fry delicately brown in hot fat. Codfish and Potato Omelet. Make a potato-and-fish mixture ex- actly as if for fishballs, but leave out the egg. Try out some salt pork in a spider, and in the dripping put the fish and potato to cook. When well browned, fold in omelet fashion, and turn out on a, hot platter. Creamed Salt 6odfish. Pick salt codfish in pieces (there should be i cupful) and soak in luke- warm water. Drain, and add 1 cup- ful white sauce. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Salt Codfish (Creole style). 1 pound boneless codfish, i cupful rice, S tablespoonfuls butter, 1 can tomatoes, 1 onion, i teaspoonful salt, 1 saltspoonful pepper. Wash and soak the codfish over night. When ready to serve, put the buttfsr and onion in a saucepan; cover and cook on the back part of FISH LEFT-OVERS the stove until the onion is soft, not brown. Drain the codfish, add it and the rice, which has been boiled for twenty minutes; pour over the toma- toes strained; cover the saucepan, and cook gently twenty minutes. When ready to serve, add salt and pepper, push the rice aside and dish the fish first; put on top of it the rice, and pour over the sauce. — ^Mhs. ROREB. Salt Fish (Nantucket style). Freshen cod for twenty-four hours, changing water four or five times. Place in a kettle with cold water; as soon as it boils, remove to back of range and simmer forty-five minutes. Serve on a warm dish, with generous lumps of butter (melted by heat of fish) and boiled potatoes. Salt-Codfish Chowder. 3 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful shredded codfish, IJ cupfTils potato cubes, 3 ounces salt pork, 2 tablespoonfuls minced onion, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful flour. Salt, 3 Boston crackers. Wash the fish and cut in two-inch lengths. Tear these in pieces, and, covering with cold water, soak for three or four hours. Slice the pork, and cook in the frying pan for ten minutes. Add the onion, and cook ten minutes. Now add the flour, and stir until smooth; afterwards stir in 1 gill water. Put the potatoes in a stewpan and pour the mixture in the frying pan over them. Season with pepper and J teaspoonful salt. Place on the fire, and cook for ten minutes; then take out the slices of pork and add the fish, milk, and split crack- ers. Cook gently for half an hour, being careful to let the chowder only bubble at one side of the stew- pan. At the end of the half hour, taste before serving, to be sure to have it salt enough. — Miss Pabloa. Codfish Balls. 1 cupful salt codfish, 3i cupfuls potato cubes, 1 tablespoonful butter, Dash pepper, ' 1 egg. Cut the fish in small pieces, put in a saucepan with the raw potato, and cover with boiling water. Let them cook until the potatoes are nearly soft. Drain thoroughly and put through the meat chopper. Stir in the butter, the well-beaten egg, and pepper, beat with a fork until light WafHe Iron and Waffles cm Plate. and fluffy, roll into balls. Dip in flour, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Souffle Codfish. 2 cupfuls hot mashed potatoes, 1 pound salt codfish, 2 eggs. Dash pepper. Soak the codfish over night; in the morning, pick into thin fine flakes, drain, and dry in a towel; add to it the beaten potatoes, pepper, and yolks of eggs well beaten. Whip the mix- ture until light, then blend in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pile in a mound on a platter, and bake until delicately brown. Codfish with Macaroni. 2 ounces macaroni, 1 cupful strained potatoes, 1 tablespoonful butter, 94 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK J teaspoonful salt, J pound salt cod, 1 tablespoonful onion juices 1 tablespoonful flonr, 1 saltspoonful pepper. Break macaroni in two-inch lengths, put in boiling water, boil rapidly for thirty minutes, drain, throw in cold water, and blanch fifteen minutes, then cut into pieces about half an inch long. Wash the codfish, cut it into blocks. It Is better to have it soaked over night. If you wish to use it in a hurry, cover with cold wa- ter, bring to boiling point, drain, throwing away the water, and cover again. Do this three times, and it will be sufficiently fresh. Rub the butter and flour together, add the tomato, stir until boiling, then add the maca- roni, fish, onion juice, salt, and pep- per. Mix until boiling; stand over the teakettle or in hot water for thir- ty minutes, and it is ready to serve. — Mrs. Roree. Toasted Codfish. Cut the fish in thin strips and freshen it. Dry, put between the wires of a broiler, and toast till deli- cately brown. Lay on a hot platter, and spread well with butter. Broiled Haddie (Scotch recipe). Select a small haddie, as they are more delicate than large ones. Put the fish in a dripping pan, skin side up, and bring slowly to the boiling point; drain, wipe dry, rub over with soft butter, salt, and lemon juice. Creamed Haddie (Scotch recipe). Trim the fins from a thick finnan haddie, cover with cold water, and let stand on the back of a range an hour, simmering slightly at the last. Drain carefully and set into a baking dish; pour over it a cupful milk; cover and set in the oven; cook ten minutes. Remove the fish to a serving dish and pour over the milk. Garnish with slices of lemon and pickles. Shredded Haddie. Braise 2 cupfuls finnan haddie that has been picked fine in a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Add 1 cupful cream into which 1 table- spoonful flour has been rubbed smooth. Let it come to a boil, and when cooled a. little add 1 large ta- blespoonful grated cheese, a dash pep- per, and, just before serving, the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve on toast. Finnan Haddie a la Selmonico. Cut fish in strips (there should be 1 cupful, put in baking pan, cover with cold water, place on back of range, and allow water to heat to boiling point. Stand on range, keep- ing water below boiling point for twenty-five minutes, drain, and rinse thoroughly. Separate fish Into flakes, add i cupful heavy cream and 4 hard- boiled eggs thinly sliced. Season with cayenne, add 1 tablespoonful butter, and sprinkle with finely chopped pars- ley. — Fannie M. Faemeb. Baked Salt Herring, Soak the herrings over night, roll in flour and butter, place in a drip- ping pan with a very little water over them; season with pepper, and after putting in the oven, baste frequently. CHAPTER XII SHELLFISH X'ried Clams. Select plump clams, dry them on a towel, roll in cracker crumbs, dip in egg, again in crumbs, and fry in hot fat; lay a sheet of paper in a colan- der and put the clams on this as fast as taken up; serve on a napkin. Clam rritters. Either whole clams or chopped ones may be used. Prepare a fritter batter, stir in the clams, using con- siderable clam liquor in making the batter. If whole clams are used, the large ones are best, having one in each fritter; when chopped clams are used, the fritters may be made any size. Drain, and serve on a, napkin. Quahog Cocktail (an individual serv- ice). 6 tiny quahogs, 1 tablespoonful clam liquor. Speck cayenne, 1 teaspoonful groimd celery, 1 teaspoonful tomato catsup, 1 teaspoonful vinegar. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 teaspoonful Worcester- shire Sauce. Put the quahogs in a glass with clam liquor, add cayenne, celery, to- mato catsup, vinegar. Tabasco and Worcestershire Sauce. Stir thor- oughly with fork. Koast Clams. Wash the clam shells thoroughly and drain in a colander. Spread them in a dripping pan and put in a hot oven. The shells will begin to open in five or eight minutes. Take from the oven, and, holding the shell over a warm dish, let the clam and juice drop out. Season with butter, salt, and pepper; serve very hot with thin slices of buttered brown bread. Clams a la Newburg. 25 soft-shelled clams, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoon fid flour. Yolks 2 eggs, 1 cupful cream. Put butter into a saucepan; stir until heated; add the flour, and cook until it thickens. Add the beaten yolks of the eggs with cream; beat well and pour over the clams; stir thoroughly until heated and cooked, but do not boil. Clams (Boston style). 13 soft clams, I pound salt pork. Cut pork in pieces size of dice, and fry crisp. Add clams, freed from the tough part, and saut6 them in the pork fat. Serve on Boston brown bread. Clams in Vienna Kolls. Take a large Vienna roll, cut out a piece of the crust the size of a half dollar, and remove the soft bread from the inside. Open as many little- neck clams as will fill the roll, re- place the small piece of crust, and place in the oven for ten minutes. Take the juice from the clams, make a thickening of flour and the juice, mix with it paprika, black pepper, Worcestershire Sauce, a dash Mcll- henny's Tabasco Sauce, and heat. Remove the baked roll from the oven and pour sauce over it. 95 96 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Escalloped Clams. S5 clams, 1 cupful cracker crumbs, J cupful milk, J cupful clam liquor, 2 eggs (well beaten), 1 tablespoonful melted butter, Salt and pepper. Season the clams highly, mix with crumbs moistened with milk and clam liquor; add eggs and melted butter and the clams chopped. Fill each shell, sprinlde with bread criunbs, and brown. This fills twelve shells. Santed Oysters. Put 2 tablespoonfuls butter into a saut6 pan; when it is hot add as many drained oysters as will make 2 cupfuls. Add a little salt and pep- per and a tablespoonful lemon juice. Shake them in the pan until the giUs are curled, then add a tablespoonful parsley chopped fine. Serve on slices of toasted bread on a hot platter. Pried Oysters with Cold Slaw. Lay the oysters on a cloth to dry. Roll in cracker dust, then in egg di- luted with a little milk, season with pepper and salt, again cover with cracker dust. Lay in a frying bas- ket and fry in smoking hot fat long enough to give them a light-brown color. Oysters toughen if cooked too long. Prepare only 4 at a time ; more lower the temperature of the fat too much, and if they are rolled before the moment of frying, they moisten the cracker dust. Place them on a paper in the oven until they are done. Fold a napkin and place it in the center of a platter. Pile the oysters on the napkin, and make a wreath around them of cold slaw. Oysters a la Hewburg. 25 large oysters, IJ tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Pepper and salt, i cupful mushrooms. Yolks 4 eggs, I cupful cream. Place the oysters in a saucepan with the butter, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Cook until the oysters are plump, then add the mushrooms cut in quarters. Beat the yolks of the egg into the cream, turn it into the oyster mixture, let it get hot and a little thickened, without boiling. Turn it into a hot dish, and garnish with croutons. — ^Makt Ronaij). Oysters a la George Trimble David- son. Melt butter the size of 3 eggs, then pour in a quart oysters and the strained liquor, flavor with salt and pepper, a teaspoonful paprika, and a dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco. Cut up celery, put In 2 tablespoonfuls, and squeeze in the juice of i lemon. Cook four minutes, and serve on hot toast. A pint of rich cream added to the broth of the oysters makes the dish richer. — ^Deschlee Welsh. Oyster Rarebit. Clean and remove the hard mus- cles from a cupful oysters; parboil in their own liquor untU the edges curl, and remove to a hot bowl. Put 1 tablespoonful butter, i pound cheese (broken in small bits), 1 salt- spoonful each salt and mustard, and a few grains cayenne into the chafing dish; while the cheese is melting, beat 2 eggs slightly, and add them to the oyster liquor; mix this gradu- ally with the melted cheese, add the oysters, and pour over hot toast. Oysters Encoquille (French recipe). Clean large oyster shells, into each put a couple of small oysters, and sprinkle with bread crumbs which have been peppered and salted and tossed in melted butter. Set the shells closely together in a baking pan, put in a hot oven, and bake till the crumbs are delicately browned. Serve a shell to each person on a smaU plate. Garnish with J lemoa and a sprig of parsley. Figs in Blankets. Dust large, plump oysters vrith pepper and salt, wrap each inside a SHELLFISH 97 thin slice of bacoii and skewer to- gether with a toothpick. Lay in a hot spider, cook till oysters begin to curl and the bacon crisps. Take out the toothpicks, and serve three or four on a slice of toast to each per- son. Broiled Oysters. Drain large oysters from the liq- uor, dip each in melted butter, dust with pepper and salt, then roll in sifted cracker crumbs. Grease the wires of an oyster broiler, lay the oys- ters in closely, and broil over a clear fire until the juice begins to flow. Serve on toast. Boasted Oysters in the Shell. Scrub the oyster shells thoroughly, lay them in a large roasting pan with the round side down, so they retain the juices as they cook. They may be roasted in a hot oven, on top of the stove, in a steamer, or under a blaze of a. gas stove. When the shells open, remove the upper shell and serve the lower shells, as many as will go on a hot plate, each one with a hot oyster in its own juice. Dust with pepper and salt and squeeze a dash of lemon juice over each. Serve immediately. If desired, they may be slipped from the shells upon slices of buttered toast and the juice poured over. Scalloped Oysters. 1 pint oysters, J cupful melted butter. Pepper and salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 cupful stale bread crumbs, i cupful milk. Cover the bottom of a baking dish with bread crumbs, and lay carefully over it the oysters lifted from the liq- uor. Cover with another layer of crumbs dusted with pepper and salt; then more oysters, and make the top layer crumbs. Strain the oyster liq- uor, add to it the tabasco, melted but- ter, and the mUk scalding hot. Pour it over the dish. Sprinkle over the top a layer of crumbs moistened with melted butter. Set it in the oven, and bake till the crumbs are brown. Creamed Oysters. 1 cupful cream sauce, 1 pint oysters. Make a cupful cream sauce, season with salt, pepper, paprika, and cel- ery salt. Pick over the oysters, and parboil in their own liquor until they begin to curl. Drain and add to the sauce. Serve on slices of buttered toast, in puff-paste patties, in vol-au- vent, or in croustade boxes. Oyster Pie. Line a deep dish with good puff paste, not too rich, roll out the upper crust and lay on a plate just the size of pie dish, set it on top of the dish and put into the 6ven, so the crust may be nearly cooked before the oysters are put in, for they re- quire less cooking than the crust. While the crust is baking, strain the liquor from the oysters and thicken. Add 3 tablespoonfuls butter and the same of cracker crumbs, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, or mace. Let the liquor boil, slip in the oysters, boil it up once, stir, remove plate with the crust, pour the oysters and hot liquor into the pie dish, put the top crust on, and return to the oven for five minutes. Cnrry of Lobster. I cupful lobster meat, 1 cupful meat stock, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 teaspoonful salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, J teaspoonful white pepper, 1 teaspoonful curry powder, 1 tablespoonful minced onion, 3 slices toast. Cut the lobster into small pieces and season with half the salt and pepper. Put the butter and onion on 98 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK the fire in a frying pan, and cook un- til the onion turns straw color; then add the flour and curry powder and stir until brown. Gradually add the stock to this, stirring all the while. Season, and cook for three minutes. Strain this into a saucepan, and add the lobster. Cook for five minutes. Cut the slices of toast in strips and lay in a warm dish. Pour the lobster over these, and serve at once. Breaded Lobster. 1 large lobster, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Dried bread crumbs. Fat for frying. Split the claws and tail and set aside. Take the meat from the large joints and body and chop fine. Mix with this J teaspoonful salt and 2 tablespoonfuls tomalley. Shape into three small, flat cakes. Season the lobster with salt and pepper. Beat the egg in a soup plate. Dip the pieces of lobster and the little cakes, one at a time, into the egg; then roll in crumbs, and, after arranging on a plate, put in a cool place. Put the breaded lobster in the frying basket, and cook in fat until crisp and brown. Serve with Sauce Tartare. Lobster (French style). Chop an onion and put it in a stewpan with 2 ounces butter; fry light brown; mix with it a table- spoonful flour; add J pint milk, a teaspoonful salt, a little pepper and cayenne, nutmeg, and chopped par- sley. Boil till rather thick; put in lobster meat cut in pieces. Let it boil up, add yolk of an egg, and a little cream, mix quickly; fill the shells, egg and bread-crumb them; put in the oven for ten minutes; brown, and serve. Creamed Lobster. 1 cupful lobster meat, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful grated onion, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cupful stock, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, J cupful cream. Yolk 1 egg. Cut the lobster meat into inch dice. Put the butter in a saucepan with the grated onion, let them cook a minute, then add the flour. Stir for a few minutes, and add, slowly, the stock and lemon juice. When this thickens, add the lobster meat, turn- ing carefully so as not to break it. When the meat is heated, remove from the fire and mix cream with the yolk of an egg beaten in it. Replace on the fire for a minute, and serve on toast or in timbales. Rissoles of Lobster. Mince the meat from a boiled lob- ster, season with pepper, salt, and a little mace. Add 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter and some bread crimibs; roll into balls, dip in yolk of beaten egg, put more crumbs over them, and fry brown. Lang^osta a la Catalana (Mexican recipe). Remove lobster meat from the shell, lay it in a, bowl so as to save all the liquor, and cut in quarters. Chop 4 large onions and a bunch of parsley, mash 4 cloves of garlic, and fry together in J cupful olive oil un- til nearly brown. Season with salt and cayenne; add the lobster with the juice, a cupful washed rice, and a tablespoonful of capers. Cook until the rice is done. When serving, put whole pimentoes on top. — Mat E. SOUTHWORTH. Lobster a la Newburg. 3 hard-boiled eggs, i pint cream or milk, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Put butter in saucepan, and when melted, add flour gradually, then cream or milk. Mash yolks of eggs and moisten with 2 tablespoon- SHELLFISH 99 fuls milk then add to ingredients in saucepan. Add salt and cayenne, and stir until thick and smooth. Add a cupful boiled lobster and the whites of the eggs cut in strips. Cangrejueloe (Mexican recipe). 1 teaspoonful butter, J pound ham, 1 onion. Dash salt. Dash chili powder, 1 pint picked shrimps, J pint washed rice, 1 bay leaf, thyme, and parsley. Put the butter in a saucepan; when hot, add the ham, chopped fine, onion, salt, and chill powder. When these are well browned, add the shrimps and stir until hot; then put in the washed rice and parsley. Cov- er and simmer with sufBcient water added to cook the rice until each grain stands out alone. Scalloped Scallops. Cut scallops into small pieces and mix with cracker crumbs, beaten egg, and a little milk or cream, sea- soning to taste. Fill shells, washed for the purpose, cover with crumbs, put a bit of butter on each, and bake delicately brown. I^ied Scallops. Marinate the scallops in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Roll in cracker dust, then in egg, and again in cracker dust or white bread crumbs. Fry in smoking-hot fat to a golden color. Scallops on the Shell. Cut scallops into quarters, if large. Place them in the scallop shells. Dredge with salt, pepper, and chop- ped parsley, cover with chopped mushrooms, some bits of butter, a teaspoonful lemon juice for each shell, and bread crumbs moistened with butter. Place in a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Soft-Shell Crabs. To prepare them for cooking, lift the shell at both edges and remove the gray, spongy substance, which can be plainly seen, then puH up the little triangular apronlike piece on under side of shell, wash and wipe the crabs dry, dip in milk, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat; or dip in beaten egg, roll in crumbs, and either fry or broil. Partan Pies (a Scotch dish). Pick the meat, after boiling from hard-shell crabs, clean the shells, mix the meat with a little pepper, a bit of butter, and bread crumbs; add 3 spoonfuls vinegar and put into the shells again; strew bread crumbs over, and set them in the oven. Serve when brown on top. Crabs a la Creole (Southern recipe). 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 onion, 1 sweet Spanish pepper minced, 1 cupful strained tomato pulp, i cupful chicken broth, i soft crabs. Melt the butter, and cook for five minutes the onion and pepper; stir while frying, then add the tomato pulp, cWcken broth, and the crabs cleaned and cut in two. Use celery salt in the seasoning, and simmer seven minutes. CHAPTER XIII MEATS In- regard to meat more than any other food, it pays the housewife to do her own marketing. A study of the cuts laid out on a butcher's stall often reveals something good and cheap, which would not have been thought of if one were giving her or- ders to a clerk or over the telephone. During the past ten years meat has risen so steadily in price that roasts, chops, and steaks, on which the aver- age housekeeper was wont to rely, make a food bill appallingly high. But there are other pieces which pro- duce very savory dishes by careful cooking. The good marketer ought, first of all, to know at a glance not only the various cuts but the appearance of good, wholesome meat. When first killed, a side of beef is reddish pur- ple, but it changes fast to a bright- red tint, while the fat is a creamy- white color, not in chunks by itself but threaded, as it were, through the red. It ought to have a fresh, juicy appearance that tells it has hung long enough to become well ripened and fit for human food. Before beginning to consider cuts of meat, their price, their tenderness or toughness, try to imagine the ani- mal on its feet wandering about a grassy field in search of food. Like every other creature, it has a wonder- ful network of muscles. Some of these muscles work overtime, others get little usage. Therefore we find the tenderest portions where the body has had little exercise — the flesh on top of the back, that long strip we call the tenderloin lying alongside of the spine, the porterhouse, the seven prime ribs, as a butcher calls the thick sirloin, all cuts which are best adapted for broiling or roasting. Near the neck are the chuck ribs and shoulder, besides the tail and rump; then we come down to the round and the leg, portions of all creatures that abound in muscle. Where sinews are abundant and the flesh has a coarse- grained appearance, different meth- ods of cooking must be resorted to ; if it were broiled or roasted, it would be almost impossible to chew. It should be subjected to slow cooking, such as braising, pot roasting, or sim- mering just below the boiling point or to the moderate heat of a casserole. The nearer one approaches the hoof of the animal, the better is the meat adapted for soup making. The ten- dons of the shin are rich in gelatin, and when dissolved by long, slow cooking, give flavor and consistency to a soup. Beginning at the hoof of a creature, there is a piece which makes excel- lent soup. As we go farther up the loin, the meat begins to be of better flavor and the bone contains finer marrow. Then comes the round ; from the top of it can be cut a really good steak. With a slight amoimt of pound- ing and marinating, it can be made, almost as tender as a more expensive cut. By marinating is meant laying it in a mixture of oil and vinegar in the coldest corner of the refrigerator. Next comes the rump, from which stews and roasts are cut. Then the sirloin, which contains the best steaks and roasts. From this portion is cut the tenderloin, a fine strip of tender meat that lies inside the bone. This bit of the creature does not re- ceive the slightest exercise. It is a 100 MEATS 101 delicate morsel, which sells from fifty to eighty cents a pound, accord- ing to the demand for it. I have bought it in country places as cheap as twenty-five cents a pound, while in New York it often brings ninety cents. Although deliciously tender, it does not possess the flavor and nourishment of a cheaper piece of steak. Now we come to the forequarter, which begins at the five prime ribs for roasting. Close to them ' lie the five chuck ribs, excellent cuts for stews and small steaks. The neck is generally converted into Hamburg steak, while the under part of the animal, which includes the flank, plate, navel, and brisket, are corned. Here also is the shoulder clod; no cut can excel it in juiciness and flav- or when a pot roast or beef k la mode is desired. For the housewife anxious to have a small income pro- vide the best food possible, there are any number of pieces that make a savory dish, only they must be cooked in the way which best fits them. A cut from the top of the rotmd mar- inated, as I suggested, and broiled gives an excellent steak. A cheaper piece of round, from farther down the leg, may be put through the chopper; when broiled, it is good as Hamburg steak; baked, it makes a savory cannelon. A cut from the rimip may be braised and is as appetizing hot as cold. A pound or two of rump is the base for a nourishing stew, while a, braised or boiled tongue affords one hot meal and several lunch dishes. An ox tail is delicious fricasseed or in soup. Pot roasting converts a num- ber of cheap cuts into excellent dishes. Among these are the juicy, lean cross ribs, or a solid piece from the lower part of the round or face of the rump. Two poimds of flank, which costs ten or twelve cents a pound, is very good when cooked & la Milan- aise. Roll the meat, saut^ it brown, season well, and braise slowly for two hours with enough water to make a good gravy. A sheep's liver is as highly es- teemed in England as calf's liver is here. In American markets it is al- most given away. If liver looks cloudy, or a heart and kidney have a streaky, spotted appearance, you may be sure they are diseased and will make dangerous food. When cut from a well-nourished, healthy ani- mal, they are smooth, red, and juicy. A calf's heart is a most appetizing dish larded, stuffed with a well-sea- soned dressing, roasted, and served with rich, brown gravy. There is a knack in picking out a soup bone as well as in knowing how to cook it. It ought to be two thirds meat, one third bone and fat. If one has a large family, the best method to follow in winter when making soup, is to purchase two pieces of shin, one heavy with meat, the other bone and gristle. It must be cooked very slowly. When tender, take the meat, separating it from the bone and gristle, which may be left to cook untU all the good is out of it. The meat makes a good hash or stew and is not to be despised for cro- quettes. Fifty cents' worth of shin (when there is no waste) yields sev- eral nourishing meals in the shape of stew, hash, galantine, and soup. It will pay a housewife who caters to a large family to purchase a set of butcher's tools. They cost several dollars, but within a year she can save the price of them by getting pieces of meat, during the winter at least, big enough to make a number of meals. Of course cold-storage room is a necessity. For instance in the course of two weeks, a quarter of mutton can be utilized in a good-sized household. The first part to be used is the flank, because its keeping quali- ties are not so good as other parts of the quarter. Cut off the small end of the ribs, leaving the loin chops and the rib quite short. The loin can then be hung in a cold pantry. The flank will make several quarts of fine mutton stock as well as a stew. In this way, one may have at a moder- ate cost the chops for which a butcher charges fancy prices, besides a num- 102 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK ber of other cuts, which, although not quite as choice, make excellent dishes when cooked properly. Beef, pork, and veal in large cuts may be purchased during the winter and cut by the housewife to suit her needs. An ac- commodating butcher will generally be willing to give his customer a les- son on how to divide meat, and with sharp tools any woman can accom- plish it. Koast Beef. Use, if possible, a covered roaster for cooking any sort of meat. The re- sult is much more savory roast and less shrinkage. Wipe the meat, set it in a dripping pan, skin side down, rub with salt and pepper, then dredge with flour. Have the oven as hot as possible when it is put in, so the out- side will sear quickly and prevent the escape of the meat juice. As soon as the flour in the pan is brown, reduce the heat and baste with the fat, which has flowed from the roast. When the meat is half done, turn it on the other side and dredge with flour. Should there be the slightest appearance of flour in the pan turn- ing black, add a little water and baste every fifteen minutes until done, al- lowing one hour for each five pounds if the meat is desired rare. An hour and twenty minutes is needed if you wish it well done. able for one portion. Put them in the saut6 pan and sear on all sides, then in the casserole. Add a table- spoonful flour to the saut6 pan, let it brown, add IJ cupfuls water, and stir until thickened, season with salt, pep- per, and a tablespoonful chopped parsley. Add a little Worcestershire Sauce and mushroom catsup. The sauce will be richer if stock is used instead of water. Pour the sauce over the meat, cover the casserolt, set in the oven, and cook slowly until the meat is tender, then cover the top with parboiled, sliced potatoes, and return to the oven to finish cooking the potatoes. Serve in the casserole. To Broil a Steak. Have the coals glowing hot, with- out flame or smoke. Grease a broiler with beef fat, place the steak in it, and hold it over the fire while count- ing ten slowly. Turn the broiler and hold the other side down for the same length of time. Turn the meat once in ten seconds for about one minute, or until it is well seared; then hold it farther fro a the fire, turning occa- sionally until the surface is brown. Just before taking it from the fire, sprinkle with salt and pepper, turn- ing each side once more to the heat to cook the seasoning. When the steak is cooked, lay it on the platter, and spread both sides with butter. Koast-Beef Gravy. Pour out the largest part of the fat, set the pan on top of the stove, add J cupful flour, and stir it through the dripping until well browned. Pepper and salt to taste. Add gradually from 1 to 2 cupfuls boiling water, and beat the gravy (^ smooth with a wire spoon; if it is not ^KS' rich enough in coloring, brown with J teaspoonful kitchen bouquet. Braised Beef. 3 pounds beef, 2 ounces fat salt pork, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 11 pints water, 2 tablespoonfuls minced onion, 2 tablespoonfuls minced carrot, 2 whole cloves, 1 sprig parsley. Casserole of Beefsteak. Saut6 3 sliced onions in a table- spoonful butter; put them into the casserole. Cut a steak, from the up- per side of the round, into pieces suit- Cut the pork into thin slices and fry until brown and crisp. Take out the pork, putting the vegetables in the fat remaining in the pan, arid cook slowly fifteen minutes. Rub MEATS lOE half the pepper and 2 teaspoonfuls salt into the piece of meat, and place it in a deep graniteware pan. When the vegetables are cooked, put them with the meat, first pressing from them as much fat as possible. Into the fat remaining in the pan put the flour, and stir until it becomes brown. Add the water gradually, stirring all the while. Season this gravy with the remainder of the salt and pepper, and boil for- five min- utes; then pour over the meat in the pan. Add the cloves and parsley. Cover the pan and set in a very moderate oven. Cook for five hours, basting every half hour with the gravy in the pan. The oven must never be so hot that the gravy will bubble. — Mabia Paeloa. Corned Beef and Cabbage. Wash and, if very salt, soak ia cold water for an hour a piece of corned beef weighing 5 or 6 pounds. Put in a kettle with cold water t» cover, place on stove, heat slowly, taking off scum as it rises to the top of the water. Cook slowly for three or four hours, or till very tender. Take out the meat, and in the liquor cook a cabbage which has been pre- pared according to directions given in chapter on vegetables; also some potatoes that have been washed and pared. If beets are to be used, cook them in boiling water in a kettle by themselves. When cabbage and po- tatoes are tender, take out with skim- mer and serve with the meat. Save the fat that rises to the top. Beef Stew with Buiuplings. 2 pounds upper part of round steak with the bone, 3 pints boiling water, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 onion, J tablespoonful salt, J tablespoonful pepper, i bay leaf, J cupful flour for thickening. Cut meat in one-and-a-half inch pieces, wipe with a damp cloth, and sprinkle with a little salt and flour. Put some of the fat in a hot frying pan, and when tried out, add meat, turning often, till well browned. Then put in a kettle with the bones, add boiling water, rinsing out frying pan with some of it, that none of the goodness of the meat be wasted. Let meat boil for five minutes; then set back on the stove where water will just bubbb, and cook slowly for two hours. Then add onion, carrot, and turnip which have been cut in half- inch cubes, and cook for another hour. Twelve minutes before the stew is done, put dumplings on a per- forated tin pie plate, or in a steamer, cover closely, and do not lift the cover until stew is cooked. Pillet of Beef. Trim into shape, lard the upper side, dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Put several pieces of pork in the pan under the meat, bake in a hot oven twenty or thirty minutes. Serve with mushroom sauce. Or brush the fillet with beaten egg, sprinkle seasoned and buttered crumbs all over it, and bake thirty minutes. Or stuff the incisions left by the removal of the veins and ten- dons with any stuffing or forcemeat. Dredge with salt and flour, and bake. — Mart J. Lincoln. Hamburg Steak. Two pounds round beef chopped fine; press it into a flat steak, sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little onion juice; flour lightly, and broil as beefsteak. Make a brown gravy with a little soup stock, thick- en with flour, and pour around the steak. Steak a la Bordelaise (French rec- ipe). 1 sirloin steak, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 cupfuls beef stock, 104 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 3 tablespoonfiils chopped raw ham, i bay leaf, 1 tablespoonful chopped onion. Salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful tomato catsup, i cupful finely chopped mush- rooms. Brown the butter and flour, stir in the stock; when thick and smooth, add the ham, bay leaf, and onion. Cover and simmer gently for an hour, then strain. Add salt, pepper, cat- sup, and mushrooms, and kefep hot at the side of the fire. Broil a sirloin steak, arrange on a hot platter, and pour this sauce around it. Beefsteak and Onions. Broil the steak over the fire, being careful to turn it often; after it is cooked, place on a hot platter and set in the oven with dabs of butter on it. Put a little finely chopped suet in a frying pan and fry light brown; into tiiat place 3 onions sliced fine. ' Cover the pan and cook until tender, remove the cover and continue cooking until the onions are light brown. In serv- ing, pour the onions and gravy over the steak. Beefsteak fie. 3 pounds lean steak, Sweet thyme and parsley chopped fine, Peppers, 5 onions, 1 teaspoonful Worcestershire Sauce, 6 hard-boiled eggs, gait. Cut the steak in strips four inches thick; put it to stew in sufficient boiling water so it does not cover the meat. After cooking slowly half an hour, add the thyme, parsley, pepper, and onions, cut in thin slices. When seasoning is added, continue stewing until the meat is tender. Add corn- starch to make the gravy as thick as cream, also season with salt and sauce. Have ready the hard-boiled eggs, and place them in alternate layers vrith the meat in a pie dish; pour the gravy over all, cover with pastry, and bake. Beef Omelet. i pound raw beef, 3 crackers, i teaspoonful Calimiet baking powder, 2 weU-beaten eggs, J teaspoonful herbs. Chop the beef fine; roll in the cracker dust, with which has been mixed the baking powder. Add the eggs and mix with salt, pepper, and powdered herbs; put a lump of but- ter in a baking dish, let it melt, then put it in the mixture. Bake half an hour. Turn out on a hot platter, fold over as you would an omelet, and pour a meat sauce around it. Steak a la Victor Hngo (French recipe). 1 porterhouse steak, 4 teaspoonful finely chopped shallot, 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar, J cupful butter. Yolks 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful meat extract, i teaspoonful horse-radish. Wipe a porterhouse steak, broil, and serve with Victor Hugo sauce made as follows: Cook shallot in vinegar five minutes. Wash J cupful butter and divide in thirds. Add 1 piece butter to mixture with yolks of eggs, lemon juice, and meat extract. Cook over hot water, stirring con- stantly; as soon as the butter is melt- ed, add second piece, then a third piece. When the mixture thickens, add horse-radish. The time for broil- ing the steak depends, of course, on how you like it; if it is wished rare, five minutes over a hot fire or under the flame of a gas stove will cook it sufficiently. When yon wish the steak well done, give it from six to eight minutes,— ;Stella A. Downing. MEATS lOS Steak Savory (Hungarian recipe). 1 pound round steak, 1 teaspoonful butter, J teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper, i cupful chopped beef fat, 2 onions. Cut the steak into four parts. Place a frying pan over the fire with enough suet to grease the pan. When very hot, put in the meat and fry over a quick fire untU light brown on both sides. Remove to a hot dish. Mix butter, salt, and pepper. Spread this over both sides of the steak and set in a warm place. Put chopped beef fat in the pan and fry to straw color; remove the bits of fat, leaving the liq- uid fat in the pan. Add to this the onions cut in slices, season with salt, cover, and cook five minutes, stirring them occasionally. Lay them over the steak, and serve. London Heat Fie (English recipe). 1 pound steak, i pound kidney, 2 cupfuls flour, 6 tablespoonfuls butter, > 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Pinch salt, 1 cupful milk. Cut the steak and kidney in thin slices, and sprinkle over it flour, pep- per, and salt. Put in a pie dish with a little hot water. Put the flour in a basin with the baking powder and salt, rub in the butter, and add milk. Turn on a floured board, and roll a quarter of an inch in thickness. Wet the edges of the pie dish, and line it with strips of pastry, then cover, brush over with egg, make a hole in the center, and bake for an hour and a half in a moderately hot oven. Steak Pudding (English recipe). 2 cupfuls flour, 3 ounces suet, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder, 1 cupful milk. Salt and pepper, 1 pound steak, i cupful hot water. Seasoning. Cut the meat in slices, and dip each piece in seasoning. Cover with hot water, and let stand while mak- ing the pastry. Mix the flour with the suet finely chopped, the bak- ing powder and salt, and make into a stiff paste with milk. Drop on a floured board, and roll. Line a greased pudding basin with the pas- try, reserving a piece for the top. Put in the meat and water, wet the edges, and cover with the remain- der of the pastry. Tie over the top a floured pudding cloth. Put into a saucepan of boiling water to boil two hours. Beef Bouilli (French recipe). Short ribs beef, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 3 stalks celery, 1 clove garlicj Pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful mushroom catsup. Put the beef on to stew with tur- nip, carrot, onion, celery, garlic, salt and pepper. Cover with boiling wa- ter, and simmer till the meat is ten- der as possible. For sauce, add vine- gar, mushroom catsup, salt, and pepper. Simmer a few minutes. Serve the sauce about the meat. Beef a la Uode. 4 pounds beef, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 3 pints boiling water, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig celery, 1 sprig parsley, 1 onion, 3 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 tablespoonful salt^ Dash pepper. 106 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Put the butter in a stewpan over a hot fire; when it melts, brown the meat on both sides. Remove the meat temporarily and add flour to butter; let it brown and thicken, then add water, bay leaf, celery, parsley, and onion with clove stuck in it, carrots, turnip, salt, and pepper. Replace the meat in this liquid and simmer li, Mold for Lady's Fingers; b, Mold for Steamed Puddings, Brown Bread, or Parf ait; c,Layer- Cake Tin; d, Doughnut Cutter. six hours. Turn the meat over and stir occasionally. Place the meat on a platter, strain the gravy over it, and garnish with sliced boiled car- rots and parsley. Beef Goulash (Hungarian recipe). 3 pounds round steak cut in inch cubes, 3 onions sliced, 3 potatoes diced, J cupful butter, i cupful water, 1 cupful cream, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful black pepper, J teaspoonful paprika. Put the butter in a kettle, set it on the range, and fry the onions, add the meat, cook until brown. Dissolve the beef extract in water, and add it to the contents of the kettle. Cover closely, and cook slowly until the meat is tender, then add the season- ings, and place the potatoes in the kettle on top of the meat. Cover and cook until the potatoes are ten- der, add the cream, and simmer five minutes, Flank a la Uilanaise (French rec- ipe). 2 pounds flank, 1 tablespoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, J cupful chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 ounces suet, 1 cupful water, 2 slices carrot, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. Season flank with salt and pepper. Place a saucepan with onion and but- ter over the fire, add a small piece of bruised garlic, cook five minutes. When cold, spread this over the meat, roll, tie at each end and in the cen- ter with a string. Set a saucepan with suet over the fire, fry until the suet is fried out; then put in the meat; cook and turn till the meat becomes a light brown, add water, carrot, and onion; cover and cook till done, which will take about two hours, adding more water if necessary, but only i cupful at a time. Shortly before serving, lay the meat on a hot dish, take off the strings, skim the fat from the gravy, mix cornstarch with cold water, add it to the gravy, stir, and cook two minutes; add sufficient boil- ing water to make a creamy sauce, cook five minutes, strain, and serve. Beef Bagout (French recipe). 2 pounds lean beef, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 onions. Cut the beef into one-and-a-half- inch pieces, season with salt and pep- per. Place a saucepan with butter and onions over the fire, cook a few minutes, add the meat and seasoning, cover, and cook over a slow fire two and a half hours, adding a little boil- ing water if the gravy gets too brown. When the meat is tender, dust with 1 tablespoonful flour, add cupful boil- ing water, and cook slowly ten min- utes, MEATS 107 Hot Collops (Scotch recipe). Mince IJ pounds round steak fine and 'season highly. An onion can be added if liked, chopped very fine. Melt a tablespoonf ul butter in a stew- pan, put in the mince, and stir fre- quently to keep from getting into lumps. Dredge flour over it, and pour on a little stock. Let sim- mer a few minutes, serve very hot on slices of toast. Boiled Tongue. Bend the tip of the tongue around and tie it to the root. Put it in cold water and place over the fire. When it boils, pour off the water, and put it on again in cold water. Boil until tender. Remove the skin, roots, and fat, and serve cold. Tongues may also be braised and served cold. — Mart J. Lincoln. Sweetbreads and Ifacaroni Sauce. 2 beef sweetbreads, 13 sticks macaroni, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 cupful cream. Salt and pepper. Parboil the sweetbreads; cut into small pieces. Boil the macaroni; when tender, cut it in tiny pieces, mak- ing little rings. Into a saucepan put butter and flour; stir, add the cream; when smooth, add the macaroni and sweetbreads. Season with salt and pepper. Boil up and serve. Tripe a la Creole (Southern recipe). 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 1 blade mace, 1 onion chopped fine, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, IJ cupfuls strained tomato, i pound boiled tripe. Put into a saucepan the butter, peppercorns, cloves, mace, and onion chopped fine. Cook slowly until the butter is light brown; add the flour, and brown again. Strain, and re- turn to the fire. Season to taste; add the boiled tripe, cut into inch strips; cover, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Curried Tripe (Southern recipe). 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 finely chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cupful stewed tomato, IJ pounds boiled tripe, Curry powder, pepper, and salt, 1 cupful beef stock. Melt the butter in a spider; add the onion; cook until colored; add the flour and brown it; stir in the beef stock and tomatoes. Add the boiled tripe, cut into strips, season with salt, pepper, and a little curry powder. Simmer gently for ten minutes, and serve. Tripe Xyonnaise (French recipe). 3 pounds tripe, 1 tablespoonful butter. Slice onion. Salt find pepper. Cut the tripe in thin strips. Put the butter in a frying pan; when hot, add the onion, and fry light brown. Turn in the tripe, add a lit- tle salt and pepper. Cook gently until tender. Thicken the gravy with flour. Tripe a I'Espagnole (French recipe). 3 tablespoonfuls oil, i cupful finely chopped onion, i finely chopped green pepper, 1 bruised clove garlic, i cupful finely chopped mush- rooms, IJ pounds tripe, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 3 finely cut tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful flour, 1 cupful boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 teaspoonful finely chopped parsley. Place the oil in a saucepan over the fire, add the onion, pepper, and gar- 108 MRS. CURTIS*S COOKBOOK lie; cook five minutes without brown- ing. Wash and cut the tripe into inch-sized pieces, season with salt and pepper; mix the tripe with the sea- soning; add it to vegetables in the saucepan, cover, and cook ten min- utes; add the tomatoes, seasoning and mushrooms, cook five minutes; dust with flour, add boiling water and beef extract, cook a few minutes longer. Serve, sprinkled with parsley. Stewed Tripe and Tomato Sauce. 1 pound tripe, 1 onion cut in slices, 2 cupfuls tomatoes, S tablespoonfuls flour, i cupful cold water. Salt and pepper. Wash the tripe, cover with hot wa- ter; add the onion, cover the sauce- pan, and cook slowly half an hour. In another saucepan put the toma- toes, cook ten minutes; strain through a sieve and return to the pan. Wet the flour with the water; add it to the strained tomatoes, stirring aU the time. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place the tripe on a hot platter and pour the sauce over. Tripe with. Oysters. Simmer J pound tripe for three quarters of an hour in slightly salt- ed water; take out the tripe; add to the water in which the tripe was cooked a little butter, flour, salt, and pepper. Return the tripe and a doz- en oysters, simmer until the oysters are cooked, and serve. Tripe and Onions (English recipe). 1 pound tripe, 3 onions, 1 cupful milk, i tablespoonful flour. Pepper and salt. Parboil the tripe, and cut into small pieces. Parboil the onions, and cut in rings. Put them both in a saucepan with boiling water and a little salt. Simmer gently from an hour and a half to two hours. Mix the flour and milk smoothly; when the tripe is tender, pour it in. Let it come to the boil, and serve very hot. Beef Heart Saute. Soak a beef heart in cold water an hour, changing the water several times to draw out all the blood. Cover with boiling water, add 1 tea- spoonful salt, and simmer gently two hours. Set aside until cold. Cut into half-inch slices and take out the tough muscle in the center. Dip each slice in slightly beaten egg, with which has been mixed salt and pepper, J teaspoonful onion juice, and 3 tea- spoonfuls warm water; roll in dry bread crumbs, and stand ten min- utes. Fry golden brown in deep fat. In a frying pan melt 1 tablespoonful butter; when brown, add 1 table- spoonful flour, and brown again. Add gradually | cupful water in which the heart was cooked, J cupful vine- gar from piccalilli, and 1 tablespoon- ful pickle chopped fine; salt and pepper to taste. Simmer two or three minutes. Stewed Beef's Heart (English rec- ipe). 1 beef heart, 1 cupful bread crumbs, 3 slices salt pork minced. Salt and pepper, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, i teaspoonful sweet marjoram, i teaspoonful chopped onion, 3 teaspoonfuls melted butter, 1 tablespoonful browned flour, J lemon. Wash the heart thoroughly and soak two hours in cold water slightly salted. Stuff with forcemeat made of bread crumbs, salt pork, salt, pepper, parsley, sweet marjoram, and onion. Moisten with melted butter. FiU the heart with this, sew up the opening, and tie firmly in a piece of cloth. Put in a saucepan, nearly cover with boiling water, and stew gently for three hours. The water should by this time be reduced to a pint. Take out the heart, remove cloth and, dish. MEATS lOG Set aside a cup of gravy and thicken what is left in the saucepan with but- ter rubbed smooth in browned flour. Salt and pepper to taste. After tak- ing from the fire, add the lemon juice, and pour over the meat. Carve in slices across the top. Beef Kidney & la Baden-Baden (Ger- man recipe). 1 beef kidney, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls finely cut mush- rooms. Yolks 2 eggs, 1 cupful sweet cream. Split the kidney in half; remove the white fat and all stringy parts; cut the kidney in four-inch squares. Place a saucepan over the fire, add the butter, and as soon as hot, put in the kidney; season with salt and pepper, stir, and cook five minutes; add the mushrooms, cook six minutes. Mix the yolks of the eggs with the cream; add to the kidneys; stir and beat till nearly boiling; add a little cayenne pepper, and serve. Hungarian Kidney. 1 beef kidney, 1§ tablespoonfuls butter, i teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful white pepper, 4 tablespoonfuls beef stock, 1 tablespoonful chopped mush- rooms. Yolks 2 eggs, § cupful mUk. Wash the kidney, and with a sharp knife cut oS the outer part of each lobe, rejecting the purplish portion and tubes. In a saucepan put the but- ter, salt, and pepper. When hot, add the kidney; shake, and cook for five minutes; add the beef stock and mushrooms; simmer for ten minutes; mix the eggs and milk, add to the contents of the saucepan, stir until the sauce begins to thicken; then take from the fire, and serve in » hot dish. Broiled Kidneys (Scotch recipe). Cut the kidneys in slices, soak an hour in salted water, wipe them dry, dip in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and broil over a hot fire. Frizzled Dried Beef. Cover dried beef with hot water to take out the salt; throw this water away, and put the beef into a sauce- pan with a few tablespoonfuls boil- ing water; let it simmer; add a little butter, put the beef on slices of toast and pour a thin tomato sauce over them. Fricassee of Oxtails. Wash and clean 3 small oxtaUs, cut them in pieces two inches long, put them into stock, and simmer until tender. Do this the day before they are to be used. Dip them in beaten eggs and crumbs, season with salt and pepper, and fry light brown. For the sauce, thicken the stock the ox- tails were cooked in with flour, pour over the meat, and serve. Savory Oxtail (Mexican recipe). 2 oxtails, 8 onions. Clove bruised garlic, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 1 carrot, 3 turnips, 3 sweet potatoes, 4 potatoes, 1 cupful Lima beans, 5 tablespoonfuls butter. Cut oxtails into pieces, scald in boiling water and cool in cold water; place a saucepan with butter over the fire, add onions and garlic; cook three minutes; drain the meat and season with salt and pepper; stir, and cook six minutes ; then cover with boil- ing water and cook two hours. Add carrot, turnips, sweet potatoes, on- ions, and potatoes; cover, and cook till nearly done; then add the Lima beans described below: Soak 1 cupful Lima beans in cold water over night, place them over the fire with cold water, add a little salt, an^ feoil till 110 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK tender; melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a small saucepan, stir, and cook two minutes; add 1 pint broth, cook a few minutes; then add to the stew; cook a. few minutes, and serve. In place of butter, the Spanish people use oil. Creamed Prankforts (German recipe), li tablespoonfuls butter, 1§ tablespoonfuls flour. 1 cupful milk. Pepper and salt, 4 Frankfort sausages. Hake a cream sauce of butter, flour, and milk. Season with salt and pepper. Skin Frankfort sau- sages, cut into pieces an inch long, and bring to a boiling point in the sauce. — S1EIJ.A A. Downiitg. CHAPTER XIV LEFT-OVERS OF BEEF A BOAST of meat goes on the table in some households day after day in the same style, with the carver doing his best at each meal to leave it as sightly as possible. Its last appear- ance is calculated to take away the appetite of an entire family. The careful housewife, whose aim is economy and a healthful, attractive table, on the second day studies the cold roast with a keen eye. It comes from the refrigerator on a clean plate, and with it a bowl of brown gravy to which has been added every drop of the meat juices left in the platter on which the roast was served. Probably for luncheon she plans cold meat, cut in neat slices from the choicest bits of the roast, rare slices and well done, to appeal to various tastes. The meat is not cut until al- most ready to put on the table. It is nicely arranged on a small platter with a garnish of parsley, cress, or cubes of aspic. She does not reheat the gravy to serve on cold plates. Worcestershire, tomato, or some cold homemade sauce makes a more fitting accompaniment. Then she carves the roast and plans for future meals. The tough outside pieces are laid away to be chopped, the fat to be rendered down for drippings, the tender bits of meat to be deviled, used for pie, ragout, or warmed up in the gravy, while the bones and gristle go to the soup kettle. Not a morsel of the meat is wasted in such a kitchen, and the daintily served, ap- petizing meals that follow the roast at intervals do not hint to the unin- itiated of richaufis. To make warmed-up meats appetiz- ing, there are various commodities which ought always to occupy a place in the pantry. Have a small jar of onion butter, a bottle of caramel, a glass can filled with browned flour, a jar of finely rolled bread crumbs, Worcestershire Sauce, celery salt, mace, bay leaves, a bottle of Mcll- henny's Tabasco Sauce, cayenne, cur- ry, catsup, canned mushrooms, pap- rika, kitchen bouquet, and horse- radish. The secret of appetizing food is good flavoring, and a frequent varying of flavor has more to do with a tempting table than a large butcher bill. Meat Minced with Poached Eggrs. 3 cupfuls cold meat, 1 cupful gravy or stock. Pepper, Salt, 1 teaspoonful butter. Chop a pint of meat coarsely, sea- son well, heat in a cupful of left-over gravy or stock. Do not allow it to boil, merely to come to a simmer. Serve on diamonds of toast with a poached egg on top of each slice. Bubble and ScLueak. 4 cupfuls cold corned beef or • beef left from a pot roast, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 cupfuls cold boiled cabbage, Salt and pepper. Cut the cold meat into small strips and saut^ them in a tablespoonful butter. Chop the cabbage and 3 ta- blespoonfuls butter in an omelet pan. Pepper and salt it, then stir over the fire till it begins to brown. Arrange on a hot platter as a border and into 111 112 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK the middle put the hot meat. Serve with boiled potatoes. Grilled Slices vitli Creole Sauce. Cut from roast beef 6 slices of rarest meat, broil for five minutes over a clear fire, put on a hot plate, and serve with a sauce made as fol- lows: In a saucepan put 2 table- spoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls chopped onion, and I tablespoonful chopped green pepper. Fry light brown, stirring constantly. Add 3 tablespoonfuls flour and stir to a paste; then put in a pint brown stock, 2 teaspoonfuls Worcestershire Sauce, a teaspoonful dry mustard, and 2 teaspoonfuls vinegar. Salt and pep- per to taste. Cook over a slow fire, beating the sauce smooth. Add a teaspoonful chopped parsley and J can mushrooms cut in halves. Let the sauce come to a boil, then pour over the grilled meat. Deviled Beef. Take slices of rare roast beef and spread with butter on each side, as if you were buttering bread. Over this scrape a mustard made by mixing a tablespoonful vinegar with 3 table- spoonfuls mustard and a dash salt and pepper. Lay on a smoking-hot iron spider and fry till the slices be- gin to curl over. Hock Terrapin. 6 hard-boiled eggs, 2 cupfuls brown stock, 4 cupfuls cold beef, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, I cupful cider. Put the butter and flour in a sauce- pan, and when blended, pour in the soup, and beat till smooth. Let it come to the boil, then add the meat cut in inch pieces, and draw to a cooler place on the stove where it can simmer half an hour. If you cannot watch it, pour it in a double boiler, for the success of this dish depends on the steeping of the meat at just below boiling point. Season with salt, pepper, and the cider when the dish is ready to take from the fire. Boil 6 eggs hard and lay in cold wa- ter to make the shells come off easily. Pour the mock terrapin on a large platter, garnish with eggs sliced, split gherkins, and poinds of lemon. Boast-Beef Fillan. Cook for five minutes 1 tablespoon- ful butter and a small onion chopped fine. Before it begins to brown, add 2 cupfuls cold beef cut in fine dice, seasoned with J teaspoonful salt and J teaspoonful pepper. Sinamer slow- ly for ten minutes. While it is cook- ing, cover i cupful rice with cold wa- ter and set it over the fire to boil. When it has cooked for five min- utes drain and let cold water run through it till every grain sepa- rates. Add the rice to the beef, pour over it IJ cupfuls canned toma- toes. Pour in a cupful boiling wa- ter, and cook slowly till the rice is perfectly soft. Beef Fricassee. 3 cupfuls cold beef cut in thin slices, 2 cupfuls brown stock, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, i teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful onion butter, 1 teaspoonful salt. Season the meat with salt and pep- per. Melt the butter in a spider, add the flour, and stir to a brown paste. Pour in the stock and beat smooth with a wire whisk. Season with pep- per, salt, and onion butter, and cook ten minutes. Add the cold meat, simmer a few minutes, and serve on a deep platter with a, border of rice, mashed potatoes, or points of toast. Beef Kagout with Tomato. 3 cupfuls cold roast beef, li cupfuls tomato pulp, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful onion juice, Salt and pepper. LEFT-OVERS OF BEEF 113 Cut the beef into half-inch cubes, cook the tomatoes half an hour, and push through a potato ricer. Reheat the tomatoes, adding butter and sea- sonings, at the last the beef. Let it simply heat, not boil, then serve. Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin. S tablespoonfuls flour, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful milk, 1 sliced onion, 1 stalk chopped celery, pepper, 3 cupfuls cold corned beef, i eupful buttered cracker crumbs. Put the celery, cut in inch lengths, and the onion in the milk; scald in a double boiler. Strain when boiling and convert the milk into a white sauce with the butter and flour. When thick, add the corned beef, cut into small neat cubes, and a dash of pep- per. Pour into a shallow dish, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and brown. Garnish with blanched leaves of celery. Beef Hask. Use for beef hash the tough part of the roast thoroughly freed from fat and gristle. Chop and mix 1 cupful meat with 2 cupfuls chopped potatoes. In an iron spider put 3 tablespoonfuls butter and i cupful stock, or a spoon of gravy added to enough hot water to half fill a cup. BoU up, then add the meat and pota- toes seasoned with pepper and salt. Stir occasionally with a fork. Let the water evaporate from the hash, leaving it dry but not pasty. fatherland Farm Meat Loaf. Butter a long, narrow cake tin and line with cold mashed potatoes, smoothing with a spatula into a layer an inch thick. Inside this put a fill- ing of roast beef, chopped coarsely, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a few drops of onion juice, and moistened with gravy. Smooth this filling till within one inch of the top of the tin, and cover with mashed potatoes. Bake in a hot oven for half an hour and turn out on a long platter. It will look like a finely crusted loaf, and may be cut in neat slices. This makes a delicious luncheon or tea dish. — Mks. S. B. Foebes. Papas Rellenas (Cuban recipe). 3 large potatoes, 1 cupful cold roast beef, 1 tablespoonful butter, 3 tablespoonfuls cooked tomato, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful flour, 3 olives. Pepper, salt, cayenne. Boil the potatoes, and cut in halves lengthwise. Scoop out the inside with a spoon, leaving the potato shell half an inch thick. Make a " picca- dillo" to stuff them with. Chop the beef, put it in a spider with the but- ter and tomato. Cook till the mix- ture begins to look dry, add 1 well- beaten egg, a dust cayenne, salt, and pepper and 3 olives chopped. Stuff the potato halves with this mixture. Beat 1 egg light, add 1 teaspoonful flour, and in this batter dip the half potatoes. Fry in boiling lard as you would croquettes. The Bemains of a Boiled Dinner. Winter squash can be served in a pie, sifting and seasoning it as if boiled for the purpose. Cold cabbage may be put into hot spiced vinegar, served cold with vinegar, or heated with a little butter and pepper, salt, if needed, and just a suspicion of vinegar. Cut it fine, and heat thor- oughly. Beets make good pickles. Turnips, carrots, and parsnips can be warmed up. A favorite dish with many people is " red-flannel hash," plain hash containing a little chopped beet. Look over the meat, cutting out all the gristle and soft fat. Chop it fine with some of the hard fat. Mince potatoes which have been boiled in pot liquor. Use three times as much potatoes as meat. Chop with the potatoes a small quantity of 114 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK the cabbage and some of the beets. For 2 quarts potatoes use 4 pint cab- bage and 1 large beet. Mix thor- oughly with the meat. Pour some milk into a frying pan and turn in the hash, using enough to moisten thoroughly. Add 2 tablespoonfuls butter and season with pepper and salt if necessary. Be sure it is heated through. Serve with brown bread and pickles. — H. Annette Poole. Tongue Sandwiches. 1 cupful finely chopped tongue, 1 teaspoonful made mustard, 1 tablespoonful soft butter, J teaspoonful paprika, Yolk 1 hard-boiled egg. Juice J lemon. Dash nutmeg. Chop the tongue fine, and mix thor- oughly with the other ingredients. Spread between thin slices of bread. Beef Bissoles. Roll pie crust as thin as possible and cut into rounds with a large bis- cuit cutter. Mince cold beef or steak, season with salt and paprika, and moisten with stock or gravy to make the meat stick together. Put a spoon- ful of this mixture into each round of paste, pinching the edges together carefully so that not a particle of the meat may escape. Brush egg over the outside, and fry like doughnuts in deep lard. They wiU take eight minutes to brown. Drain on thick paper, and serve hot in a folded napkin. CHAPTER XV LAMB AND MUTTON Mutton Stew (Irish recipe). IJ pounds neck mutton, 2 quarts potatoes, 4 onions, 2 cupfuls boiling water. Pepper and salt. Cut the mutton in pieces, and put in saucepan with the onions cut in rings, also the hot water and salt. Let it boil, then simmer gently for two hours. Parboil the potatoes, cut them in halves, put in the saucepan with the meat, about half an hour be- fore it is done. In serving, put the potatoes round the dish, with the meat and onions in the center, and pour the gravy over. Roast Lamb. Wipe the meat with a damp towel, place in a baking pan, dredge with pepper, salt, and flour.- Add a cup- ful boiling water and a teaspoonful salt to the pan. Baste every ten min- utes, and bake fifteen minutes to the pound in a hot oven. When done set the meat on a platter, and serve with mint sauce and green peas. Boiled leg of Lamb. Choose a hind leg, put into a ket- tle, and cover with boiling water. Set over the fire, let come to a boil, pour in a pint cold water and simmer gen- tly until done. Take the meat up on a hot dish, and serve with caper sauce. Stuffed Shoulder of Lamb. Bone a shoulder of lamb, leave the knuckle, and fill the cavity with rich bread stuffing; tie neatly in shape and wrap in a buttered paper. Lay in a deep pan with 4 tablespoonfuls butter, a sliced carrot and turnip, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch sweet herbs. Pour on sufficient stock to cover the bottom of the pan. Set over a slow fire and simmer gently; baste every ten minutes. When near- ly done, lift from the pan, remove the paper ; brush the meat with melted glaze and set in the oven to brown. Take up the shoulder on a heated dish. Strain the gravy, and pour around it. Garnish with purie of green peas, and serve with maitre d'hotel sauce. — Eliza Parker. Pressed Lamb. Put a shoulder of lamb on to boil, with water to cover; when tender, season with salt and pepper. Boil until tender, when the juice will be nearly boiled out. Chop the meat, and season. Put it in a bowl with a plate on top and press out all the juice; set in a cool place to harden. Slice thin when serving. Soup can be made of the broth. Broiled Breast of Lamb. Trim a breast of lamb and put it in a saucepan, cover with stock, add a bunch sweet herbs, a slice onion, a piece mace, and 2 or 3 cloves; sim- mer gently until tender. Take up, dredge with salt and pepper, brush over with beaten egg and grated cracker, and broil over a clear fire until brown on both sides. Take up on a heated dish, pour over a little melted butter and garnish with as- paragus tips. Imitation Barbecue of Mutton. Remove the skin from a leg of mut- ton, sprinkle with salt, and dredge with flour. Place in the pan and 115 116 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK roast. Allow the meat twenty min- utes to the pound. One hour before serving, prepare the following mix- ture: J cupful Worcestershire Sauce, J cupful tomato catsup, J cupful vinegar, J teaspoonful pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls mustard. Stick the meat all over with a sharp-pointed knife, pull the cuts open and fill with this hot mixture. Baste with the liquor which gathers in the pan, and pour it ovet the meat before sending it to the table. Army Stew. 1 tablespoonfui chopped parsley, 2 pounds forequarter lamb, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonfui salt, 4 onions, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 4 potatoes, i cupful milk, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 egg, 2 cupfuls flour. Cut lamb in pieces, place in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, cook two minutes, remove, drain and plunge into cold water, drain and re- turn the meat to the saucepan. Cover again with boiling water, add salt, pepper, and onions, boil an hour and a half, add turnips, peeled and cut into quarters, carrots and potatoes, cut into quarters; boil till done. Ten minutes before serving, mix flour with baking powder, egg and milk, cut with teaspoonful small portions from the mixture and drop them in the stew; cover, and cook five minutes; then remove the saucepan to side of stove, where it stops boiling, other- wise the dumplings wiU become heavy; add parsley, and serve. Haricot Hutton (English recipe), IJ pounds neck mutton, 1 onion, 1 carrot. 1 turnip, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls flour. Pepper and salt to tast^ 3 cupfuls hot water. Divide the meat into small joints, and cut the vegetables in small square pieces. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the meat, and fry brown with the onions. Pour off the fat, add the vegetables, flour, water, and a. little salt. Let it boil; then simmer gently from one and a half to two hours. In serving, put the meat on a hot dish, pile the vegetables on top, and pour the gravy round about. Breaded Chops. 4 loin chops, 1 egg, 1 cupful bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful salt. Dash pepper, 1 tablespoonfui chopped parsley. Cut chops three quarters of an inch thick. Dip each in beaten egg and lay on a meat board. Mix bread crumbs with salt and pepper, minced parsley, and a little grated nutmeg. Roll the chops in the bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat imtil light brown. Garnish with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Curry of Lamb (Southern recipe). Breast lamb, 2 onions, 1 carrot. Bunch parsley, 1 bay leaf, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls curry powder, 3 dozen sweet potatoes, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 3 tablespoonfuls grated cocoa- nut, 3 dashes Mcllhe.nny's Tabasco Sauce. Cut lamb in inch squares, trim, and put on fire with enough water to cov- er; add onion, carrot, parsley, and bay leaf; cook half an hour. Prepare tAMB AND MUTTON 117 butter in saucepan with curry pow- der, simmer five minutes, add flour, moisten witii stock of Iamb strained; add pieces of Iamb, also sweet pota- toes, cocoanut, salt, and tabasco. Cook fifteen minutes, and serve with garnishing of boiled rice. Chicken, veal, or mutton may be prepared in the same way. Lamb Chops a la Boulangere (French recipe). 10 or 12 cutlets, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, i cupful cream. Salt, pepper, and cayenne, 1 tablespoonful chopped chervil, 1 lemon. Trim the cutlets, season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne, dip in olive oil, then in flour. Broil over a slow fire. While they are cooking, put cream in a stewpan, and when boiling add butter, chervil, the juice of i lemon, and a little pepper and salt; stir quickly till it forms a smooth sauce; pour it over the cut- lets when done, and serve quickly. Fillets of veal or rabbit are good cooked in this way. Hutton Chops a. la Cleveland. 8 mutton chops, 3 tablespoonfuls sweet oil, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 onion, 1 pint mushrooms, i pint strained tomatoes. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, Salt, Chopped parsley. Fry the chops in the oil and butter. Put them on a hot platter while you make the sauce. Chop the onion and mushrooms fine; put them in a sauce- pan with a little butter and fry until brown. Add the tomatoes, and boil five minutes; add the tabasco, salt, pepper, and parsley. Lay the chops in a circle; pour the sauce in the cen- ter, and garnish with points of toast. Broiled Iamb Chops. Have the chops cut thick, dust with s< and pepper; broil over a quick fire; pile neatly on a hot plat- ter, and put a small bit of butter on each one. Stuffed Mutton Chops. 10 mutton chops, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful chopped onion, J cupful chopped mushrooms, I teaspoonful salt. Pinch pepper, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls stock. Trim the chops, which have been cut very thick. With a sharp knife split each chop in two, without sepa- a, Brown-Bread or Pudding Mold ; 6, Waffle Iron ; c. Fatly Pans. rating the meat from the bone. Put the butter in a pan, add the onion, and cook five minutes; add to tliis the chopped mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and cook five minutes longer. Add the flour and stock. Cook for a few minutes; stuff each chop with this mixture after it has cooled; press them tightly together, and broil. Mutton Cutlets with Mushrooms. Take the bones from mutton chops, and use the round, lean portions. Brush with melted butter and broil. Serve them on rounds of toasted bread, with mushroom sauce poured over. Sauce. — Peel 1 pint mush- rooms, cut in pieces, season, and cook in cream sauce for ten minutes. 118 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK lamb Fricassee (German recipe). 2 breasts lamb, 3 ounces butter, 5 tablespoonfuls chopped onion, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, J tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Dip the lamb breasts into boiling water, then instantly into cold water; cut the meat into two-inch pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the onions, and cook five minutes without browning; season the meat with the salt; add it to the saucepan; cook ten minutes, cover with boiling water, put on the lid, and cook until done. Shortly before serving, melt i tablespoonful butter, add the flour, stir, and cook a few minutes; add it to the fricassee, and boil a few min- utes longer. — Gesixe Lemcke. Deviled Kidneys (German recipe). 6 lamb kidneys, 1 ounce butter, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped onions, i bruised clove garlic, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful stock. Yolks 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, Cayenne pepper. Split the kidneys, remove the white part in center and chop fine. Place the butter in a saucepan, add the onions, and cook three minutes; add the kidneys and salt; stir, and cook three minutes; then add the stock, and cook three minutes longer. Re- move from the fire, add the eggs, parsley, and a little pepper. Fill this mixture into 6 ramequins, sprinkle over each J tablespoonful fresh grated bread crumbs and a little melted but- ter. Place the ramequins in a tin pan, set it in a hot oven, and bake brown. — Gesine Lemcke. Kidneys a la Maitre d'hotel (French recipe). Split and cut in two, lengthwise, lamb's kidneys. Run a skewer through to keep them flat. Dip in melted butter and fine bread crumbs; season with salt and pepper. Broil five minutes. Serve vrith mattre d'hdtel butter. Iamb-Heart Stew (French recipe). 3 lambs' hearts, 1 tablespoonful butter, J peeled lemon, i bay leaf. Salt, Pepper. Wash the hearts and slice, cutting across the grain of the meat. Dry slightly and dust with flour. Put the butter in a stewpan and when hot add the meat; stir and cook about ten minutes. Add enough water to near- ly cover the meat, the lemon cut in slices, and bay leaf. Cover the ket- tle, and cook gently half an hour, stirring often and adding more wa- ter, if needed; add salt and pepper; remove the bay leaf and lemon, thicken, and serve. Xamb's Xiver Curried. 1 lamb's liver, 1 onion. Few slices pork, i teaspoonful curry powder. Cut the lamb's liver in slices, soak in salted water for five minutes, take from the water, and dry in a cloth. Slice the onion and fry with pork. Take out the pork and fry the liver. Brown well, add the curry powder to the sauce, stir smooth, and serve. CHAPTER XVI LAMB LEFT-OVERS Lamb can be used in nearly every recipe given for beef. It is especially good for croquettes and makes a sav- ory stew. Save every drop of gravy or liquid from the platter when set- ting a roast of lamb away. It re- quires aU the enriching it can have and always plenty of seasoning. Potatoes with Lamb Staffing. 8 large baked potatoes, 1 cupful cold chopped lamb, 4 tablespoonfuls chopped ham, i cupful thin white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls cream. White 1 egg, Salt and pepper. Bake 8 large, perfect potatoes. While they are cooking, chop the lamb and ham, mix lightly together, add the seasonings, and moisten with white sauce. When the potatoes are soft, cut a thin slice from the end of each and scoop out the inside. Put it at once through a potato ricer and set away to keep warm. Fill the po- tato skins almost to the top with the meat mixture. Add to a cup of the mashed potato the cream and beaten white of the egg. Pepper and salt, and on the top of each potato put a spoonful, leaving it in a small, rocky mound. Bake till the top is a deli- cate brown. Serve the potatoes piled on their ends in a shallow dish, with a plentiful garnish of parsley. Hound of Iamb with Peas. 2 cupfuls cold chopped lamb, 1 small onion, 1 cupful cold potatoes. Pepper and salt, 3 tablespoonfuls stock, I cupful buttered crumbs, 1 cupful green peas. Mix lightly with a fork the chopped meat, potato, onion, and seasonings. Heap it in a mound in the middle of a shallow baking dish. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake till brown. When ready to serve, pour around it a cup of green peas drained and sea- soned. Lamb-and-Eice Croquettes. 3 cupfids chopped lamb, 1 cupful cold rice, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley. Pepper and salt, 1 cupful white sauce. Mix the lamb and rice with the sea- sonings and stir into a hot, thick, white sauce. Cool. Roll into cone- shaped croquettes. Flour, egg, and crumb. Fry in deep fat. Garnish with parsley. Lamb in Savory Stew. IJ cupfuls cold lamb, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, i onion, 1 cupful gravy or brown stock, 2 cucumber pickles. Pepper, salt, cayenne. Into a granite saucepan put the butter, onion, and flour, and rub to a paste. When it grows light brown, add the gravy or stock, salt and pep- per, and allow to simmer for two minutes. Cut the pickles in small pieces, add to the sauce and the lamb cut in neat slices. Let it heat through, then serve in a deep platter sur- rounded by a ring of hot boiled rice or mashed potatoes. 119 CHAPTER XVII VEAL Koast Breast of Veal. 1 cupful stale bread, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls minced onion, i teaspoonful ssdt, J teaspoonful thyme, 1 egg, Small breast veal (about 3 pounds), J tablespoonful cornstarch. Soak stale bread in cold water; when soft, put it in a towel, press out the water, place butter with minced onion over the fire, stir and cook five minutes without browning, then add the bread, stir five minutes longer, season with salt, pepper, thyme, and 1 egg, and mix. Have the butcher prepare the veal for filling, wash and wipe the meat dry, season inside and out with 1 tablespoonful salt and J teaspoonful pepper, then stuff the breast, sew it up, lay the meat in a roasting pan, with slices of pork under it, spread over with butter, and lay a few slices of pork on top. Place the pan in hot oven, roast until the meat becomes light brown, basting frequently with its own gravy, add 1 cupful boiling wa- ter, roast about two hours longei, basting frequently until done; add more water should the gravy brown too much. Ten minutes before serv- ing, lay the meat on a platter, re- move the fat from the gravy, mix cornstarch with J cupful cold water, add to it the sauce, stir,and cook three minutes, then strain, pour a little of the sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder in a gravy boat. Veal Boasted with Mushrooms. Bone a loin of veal. Remove the kidneys and fat, and lay them, after splitting in two, inside the loin. Sea- son inside with pepper and salt, and fold over the flap to inclose the kid- neys. Roll and tie securely with string, making the roast oblong shape. Cover the bottom of the roasting pan with thin slices of fat pork, a sliced onion, and chopped parsley. Lay the meat on top, and moisten with a lit- tle cream. Have the oven rather slow at first, basting the veal frequently with a little cream. When nearly done, sprinkle with fine bread crumbs, moisten with melted butter, and let it brown. Take out the veal, untie, sprinkle Parmesan cheese over it, set in a very hot oven, surround with broiled mushrooms, and pour over the strained liquid left in the roasting pan. Veal Savory (French recipe). IJ pounds ham, 3 pounds raw veal, 6 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. Cut the veal and ham into small pieces. Cut eggs in slices, lay part of them in the bottom of a weU-but- tered earthenware dish, sprinkle with minced parsley, then put in a layer of veal and ham, with salt and pep- per to season. Proceed with these alternate layers until all is used, then add just enough water to cover it, with butter rolled in flour and divided into tiny portions dotted over the top. Tie a buttered paper over the dish, and bake one hour in a hot oven. Re- move the paper, lay a plate over the meat with a weight to keep it in place, and let it remain another hour in a slow oven. When cold, turn out and garnish with small lettuce leaves 120 VEAL m filled with cold peas dressed with a little mayonnaise. Veal Loaf. 4 pounds raw lean veal, i pound ham, J pojmd salt pork, X cupful stale bread Crumbs, i cupful melted butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful paprika, 1 teaspoonful onion juice, i teaspoonful allspice, i teaspoonful nutmeg, J teaspoonful cloves, 1 lemon, juice and rind, 2 eggs. Chop very fine the veal, ham, and salt pork. Mix with meat the bread crumbs soaked in milk, butter, sea- sonings, and well-beaten eggs. Press into a buttered bread pan, cover the top with lardoons of salt pork; bake one hour. Cut when cold into thin slices. Curried Veal Cutlets. Trim cutlets into uniform shape and size; dip in the beaten yolks of eggs, and cover with grated bread crumbs that have been mixed with 3 tablespoonfuls curry powder and a ta- blespoonful salt. Fry in butter till brown. Take out of the spider, and in it melt and brown a little butter and flour, add a cupful water, and pour over the cutlets. Veal Hearts (Spanish recipe). 4 slices bacon, 1 sliced onion, 4 veal hearts, 1 cupful stock, i minced pimento, 1 teaspoonful salt, J bay leaf. Pry bacon to a crisp, remove from the spider, and crisp the sliced onion in the hot fat. Trim and wash hearts, slice them, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat. Add to the fat in the pan the stock, pimento, salt, and bay leaf. Pour the mixture over the hearts, and cook two hours. Five minutes before serving, add the bacon. Brown Stew. 3 pounds veal, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 pint water, 1 teaspoonful salt. Dash pepper. Slice onion, 1 teaspoonful kitchen bouquet, 1 bay leaf. Cut the veal into cubes and roll in flour. Put 3 tablespoonfuls butter into a pan; when hot, add the meat, and stir constantly until browned. Dust with the flour, mix, add the wa- ter; stir, add the salt and pepper, onion, kitchen bouquet, and bay leaf. Cover, and simmer gently for an hour. Veal Cutlets. Divide the cutlet into pieces about four inches square; dip in egg, then in crumbs; fry for five minutes. Add i cupful boiling water, and let sim- mer for an hour. Dish, and serve with bits of lemon. Kagout of Veal. Cut the meat in thin slices, put 2 tablespoonfuls butter in a pan, dredge with flourj and fry light brown. Take out the meat and put into the pan a cupful cold stock or gravy, season with salt and pepper and a table- spoonful tomato catsup. Lay a few slices of cold ham in the gravy, also the veal. Serve very hot. Veal Oysters. Cut IJ pounds veal cutlets into pieces the size of large oysters; sea- son with 1 tablespoonful salt, dust with flour, dip into beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry light brown on both sides. Serve on a hot dish; garnish with lemon quarters. Veal Birds (English recipe). Cut thin slices of veal into pieces two and a half by four inches. Chop the trimmings of the meat fine with one small slice of fat salt pork and half as much cracker crumbs as there 122 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK is meat. Season highly with salt, cayenne, and onion juice, moisten with beaten egg and a little hot wa- ter. Spread each slice of veal with this mixture and roll tightly; fasten with a toothpick. Dredge with flour, pepper, and salt, and fry slowly in hot butter. Add J cupful cream, and simmer twenty minutes. Remove the fastenings, put the birds on toast, pour the cream over them, garnish with points of lemon, and serve. Wiener Schnitzel (German recipe). 3 poimds veal steak, 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful lard, i teaspoonful capers, 6 anchovies. Lemon. Cut the veal in slices half an inch thick and three inches square; pare the corners round; beat lightly to flatten; season with salt and dust with flour; dip each cutlet in egg, cover with fine crumbs, and pat smooth with a knife. Fifteen min- utes before serving, place a pan with the butter and lard over the fire; as soon as hot, put in the cutlets, fry light brown. Arrange on a warm dish; lay in the center of each schnit- zel J teaspoonful capers. Soak the anchovies in cold water; remove the skin and bones; divide in halves, roll them up; place 2 of these rolls on each schnitzel with J lemon cut in two. Garnish with water cress or par- sley, and serve. Smothered Veal. Place in the bottom of a baking pan 2 slices salt pork cut fine, a lay- er of sliced potatoes, a little chopped onion, a layer of finely chopped un- cooked veal, pepper, and salt. Con- tinue until the dish is full. Spread over the top bits of butter. Bake forty-five minutes. Veal Stew. 3 pounds breast veal, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Bunch parsley, 2 carrots, 2 cupfuls cooked green peas. Cut up the veal and fry light brown in a pan with the butter; drain off most of the butter; sprinkle the flour over the meat; mix well and fry a little longer, add 1 pint water and let boil; take out the meat, put it in another pan, strain the sauce over it. Add the parsley chopped fine, car- rots cut fine, and peas. Boil up again, and serve. Veal CoJIops (Scotch recipe). IJ pounds veal, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful chopped onion, 2 cupfuls stock, 1 can green peas. Salt and pepper. Trim off skin and fat from the veal and put through a meat chopper. Melt the butter and brown the onion, then add the stock; season to taste and simmer five minutes. Fry the chopped raw meat in a spider. Stir until the butter is absorbed; strain over it the stock in the saucepan; cover, simmer for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Place the peas in a saucepan with butter, salt, and pepper, and heat. When the meat has absorbed the liquor, turn if into the center of a. hot platter; sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and sur- round with the peas. Calves' Tongue -with Tomato Sauce. 2 calves' tongues, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cupful water, 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 bunch parsley, 1 onion, 3 cloves. Soak the tongues in warm water an hour; drain and parboil, cool, pare, and scrape off the white skin. Put the flour in a saucepan, stir into it gradually the water. When it boils, add the tongues with vinegar, parsley. VEAL 12a onion, and cloves. Cover and cook slowly an hour. Serve with tomato sauce. Stewed Calf's liver. 1 calf's liver, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 stalk celery, 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful browned flour. Wash and cut the liver in slices. In a. saucepan put the turnip, carrot, celery, and onion (all sliced) ; lay the liver on top of the vegetables; sprinkle salt and pepper over it, and pour on a pint boiling water; cover, and let stew until the liver is tender. When done, take out the liver and put on a hot platter; thicken the gravy with butter and flour; strain, and pour over the meat. Broiled liver. Cut calf s liver into half inch slices, cover with boiling water, let stand five or six minutes, drain, and wipe dry. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and broil in a. ,greased broiler five minutes. Put on a hot platter and spread with bits of butter. Serve very hot. Braised Calf's Liver. 1 calf's liver, 1 onion, 3 ounces bacon, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 sliced carrot, J bay leaf, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful stock, i cupful strained tomatoes. In the liver make many small slits with a paring knife and insert slices of onion and bits of sliced bacon. Heat in a spider 3 tablespoonfuls ba- con drippings and add flour to the fat. Brown the flour in the fat, then add the liver, and roll it on all sides imtil it is seared in the fat and cov- ered with fat and flour. Place the liver in the heated casserole, add car- rot, bay leaf, salt, stock, and toma- toes. Bake two hours and a half. Calf's Xiver and Bacon. Saut6 calf's liver in bacon fat, and when don^ make a gravy from it with flour and hot water. Heat a pan, and drop in slices of bacon. If the pan is very hot, they will curl into rolls and brown in a few min- utes. Arrange the liver, and garnish with parsley. Veal Kidney Omelet. 1 veal kidney, 1 tablespoonful butter, J teaspoonful salt. Dash pepper, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful warm water. Remove the fat and tubes from a kidney and chop fine. Place in a fry- ing pan with butter, salt, and pepper, and shake over a hot fire until the meat is golden brown. Beat the eggs without separating; add the warm water. Heat the butter in a spider, pour in the eggs, and shake over the fire tiU the mixture begins to set. Draw back — so the omelet may set without burning; turn the cooked kidney over the center, fold up, and serve on a hot platter. Veal Kidneys Deviled. Split in half 3 veal kidneys and take out the fibrous parts. Spread both sides with a mayonnaise, season highly, roll in bread crumbs, dip in melted butter, and broil over a hot fire. Serve at once. Tried Sweetbreads. 1 pair sweetbreads, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cupful milk. Salt and pepper. Parboil the sweetbreads; when cold, dip them in beaten egg and cracker crumbs, sprinkle salt over them, and fry in hot fat. Stir together the but- ter and flour, then set the pan back a 124 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK little and add gradually the milk; stir until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, finely chopped celery, and cook about two minutes. Strain the sauce over the sweetbreads. Sweetbread Croquettes. 3 sweetbreads, 1 can mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 tablespoonful butter, i cupful cream, 3 yolks eggs. Parboil the sweetbreads and cut them in small pieces; also cut the mushrooms. Put into a saucepan the flour and butter, and when made smooth, add the cream ; heat, then add the sweetbreads and mushrooms. Sweetbreads a la NewbiiTg. 1 cupful cream, li cupfuls sweetbreads. Yolks 3 eggs, i teaspoonful salt. Few grains cayenne. Heat the cream; add the sweet- breads parboiled and cut in cubes. Beat the yolks of the eggs; add the salt and cayenne, and stir into the cream. Stir until thickened slightly; serve at once. Sweetbread Prltters. Parboil sweetbreads, cut in small pieces, season with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; dip in fritter bat- ter and fry in deep fat. CHAPTER XVIII VEAL LEFT-OVERS Veai. is the flesh of an immature creature, and will not keep fresh as long as that of an older animal. A left-over of beef may be kept a day or two before serving again; it is bet- ter to see to the condition of veal twenty-four hours after cooking, es- pecially in hot weather, and serve it as soon as convenient. Veal has lit- tle flavor, and requires considerable seasoning. Brown sauce is the gen- eral accompaniment to veal at the first cooking. Save every spoonful of sauce to use with it when warming over. If there is no brown gravy, white sauce may take its place. Veal makes an excellent ragout, seasoned with onion juice and cayenne, minced and poured on toast for breakfast; in a salad or croquettes, it tastes very much like chicken. Add to it a few mushrooms or 2 or 3 spoonfuls left- over sweetbreads, and you have de- licious rissoles. It is excellent com- bined with oysters in a scallop. When preparing it for a salad, be careful to reject all morsels of gristle as well as brown or hard meat. One- half measure each of cold veal and finely chopped white cabbage is de- licious with a horse-radish dressing. Marinate for two hours, else you will find the salad a tasteless one. Nut Balls. 1 cupftil cold chopped veal, 12 chopped blanched almonds, i teaspoonful salt, 1 egg. Pepper, Paprika, 1 cupful tomato sauce. Mix the meat, almonds, and season- ing, and moisten with the well-beaten egg. Roll into balls the size of a walnut and set in a baking pan. Pour over them the hot tomato sauce. Cook in a hot oven for twenty min- utes. Serve on a, platter garnished with water cress. Windermere CTOC[uettes (English recipe). IJ cupfuls milk, IJ tablespoonfuls but*er, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful salt. Dash cayenne, 3 cupfvls cold chopped veal, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, i cupful cold rice. Yolks 3 hard-boiled eggs. Make a white sauce from the milk, flour, butter, and seasonings. To 1 cupful sauce add the chopped meat and parsley. Spread on a plate to cool. Into the i cupful sauce beat the rice and the yolks of the eggs pushed through a potato ricer. Spread on a plate to cool. Take a tablespoonful meat mixture and flatten into a cake. Inside this put a teaspoonful rice mix- ture rolled in a tiny ball. Wrap the meat around it till covered. Roll in flour, egg, crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Pile cannon-ball fashion on a platter. Garnish with parsley. — Maey Kekdall. Calf's liver Terrapin with Knsh- rooms. 3 cupfuls cold liver, 1 cupful stock, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 eggs, J teaspoonful salt. 125 126 MRS. CTJRTIS'S COOKBOOK J teaspoonful paprika, J teaspoonful kitchen bouquet, i teaspoonful mustard, 2 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 cupful mushrooms, 3 truffles. Boil the eggs hard. Rub the yolks smooth with the butter, salt, paprika, kitchen bouquet, mustard, and ta- basco. Add the liver cut in small pieces and the stock. Cook five min- utes, add the mushrooms and truffles, and serve garnished with whites of eggs cut in rings. Veal Omelet. If you have a cupful of cold roast veal left over, chop it fine, season with pepper, salt, and a dash of pap- rika; then tuck it between the folds of an omelet. Pour over it before sending to the table a cup of hot, well-seasoned tomato sauce. CHAPTER XIX PORK Koast Pork. Select a piece of loin from a young pig, 3 pounds in weiglit; score tlie rind across one eightii of an inch apart, season with J tablespoonful salt and J teaspoonful pepper; lay the pork in a roasting pan, place it in a medium hot oven, roast till light brown, basting with its own gravy; then add J cupful boiling water; con- tinue to roast and baste till nearly done, turn the meat over, so the rind lies in the gravy, roast ten minutes, turn it again, so the rind is on the top ; let it remain five minutes longer in the oven, transfer to a hot dish, free the gravy from fat, mix 1 tea- spoonful cornstarch with J gill cold water, add it to the gravy, stir two minutes, add sufScient boiling water to make creamy sauce, strain, and serve with the meat. Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Pota- toes. Wipe tenderloins, put in a dripping pan and brown quickly in a hot oven; then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake forty-five minutes, basting every fifteen minutes. Pare six potatoes and parboil ten minutes, drain, put in pan with meat, and cook until soft, basting when basting meat. — Fastnie M. Fabmee. Pork Chops, Sauce Robert. Take 8 rib chops, trim them neat- ly; have ready some finely chopped onion and parsley; sprinkle each chop on both sides with this, also salt and pepper, and beat lightly with a broad knife, to make all adhere. Dip each one into slightly beaten egg, then roll into fine bread crumbs; let stand five minutes; dip into melted butter, and roll again in the crumbs. Arrange in a wire broiler and broil seven minutes over a clear fire. Chop fine 2 large onions, place in a stew- pan with 1 tablespoonful butter, and cook slowly until well colored; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and brown again, add slowly IJ oupfuls beef stock and 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. When smooth and thick, simmer until re- duced to 1 cupful, add 1 teaspoonful mixed mustard, salt, and pepper to taste. Pour this around the chops as they are dished. Bobble Gash (German recipe). 1 pound lean pork, 1 pound veal, 1 tablespoonful lard, 3 onions, 5 potatoes, 1 cupful cream, 1 tablespoonful flour. Cut the pork and veal in small pieces. Put the lard in a kettle; when hot, add the onions sliced. As they commence to brown, drop in the meat and stir constantly until brown; then cover with water and boil three fourths of an hour. Sea- son with salt and pepper. Pare and cut in small dice the potatoes; when boiled, add them to the meat with the cream. Thicken with flour. Boston Pork and Beans. Pick over and wash a quart of dried beans the night before you bake them. Put them to soak in cold wa- ter. In the morning, pour off the wa- ter, put them in a kettle, then cover with plenty of cold water, and set to boil. Cook till perfectly tender; turn off the bean water; put them 127 128 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK into a pot; score in lines the rind of a piece of pork and bury it, all but the surface of the rind, in the middle of the beans. Add enough boUing wa- ter to the beans to cover. Stir in 3 tablespoonfuls molasses and a tea- spoonful fresh mustard. Cover the pot and put in the oven. Bake mod- erately, but steadily, five hours. If the water wastes away so as to be be- low the surface of the beans, supply enough just to cover them. Toward the end of the time, it may be allowed to dry down enough to permit the pork to brown. Uncover the pot for a little while for this purpose. Boast Pig. A pig for roasting should not weigh over 6 or 7 pounds after being cleaned. When it has been prepared by the butcher, lay it in cold water for fifteen minutes, then wipe dry, inside and out. Make a stuffing as for a turkey, adding two beaten eggs. Stuff the pig to his original size and shape. Sew him up, bend his fore legs backward, his back legs for- ward under him, and skewer into shape. Dredge with flour and set, with a little salt water, into a covered roaster. At the end of twen- ty minutes remove the cover again, rub the pig with butter, and brown for ten minutes. Serve very hot with apple sauce. Homemade Sausage. Take of lean young pork IJ pounds tenderloin, the rest any lean cut, 4 pounds, and fat, 3 pounds; put it through a sausage grinder — ^twice, perhaps three times, until of the de- sired fineness. Use for each pound of meat, 1 teaspoonful powdered, dried leaf sage, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonfid pepper, and J nutmeg; nutmeg may be omitted if preferred. A quantity of sausage may be made at a time and preserved for regular use if one has a cold storeroom in which to keep it. It should be packed in jars and covered an inch thick with melted lard, which will preserve it. Sauerkraut with Spareribs. Cover the kraut with cold water, add a little salt if necessary, and place to boil three hours before us- ing it. About an hour before it is done, put spareribs in and let them boa until the meat falls from the bones. Remove the spareribs, and stir in the kraut a grated raw po- tato from which the water has been drained. Let it come to a boil after this, being careful it does not burn; remove from stove, and serve. To Boil a Ham. Twenty-four hours before a ham is to be used, scrub it thoroughly with a vegetable brush and cold, weak borax water. Put in cold water and soak twenty-four hours. If it is to be baked, it requires four hours' boil- ing. Use a big kettle, as the ham must be covered all over with water. Let it come to the boil very slowly. Remove the scum. When it begins to boil, add 12 whole cloves, 1 bay leaf, 13 peppercorns, the outside stalks of 1 bunch celery, 3 chopped onions, 2 cloves garlic, 1 chopped car- rot and turnip, 2 blades mace, 13 all- spice berries, and 1 quart cider or a cupful vinegar. Never allow the ham to boU, merely simmer slowly; that is one secret of making it per- fectly tender. Allow twenty-five min- utes or half an hour to the poimd. If the ham is to be used cold, you can add to its tender juiciness by allow- ing it to stand in the pot liquor till nearly cold. Then lift it out, peel oflf the skin and roll in dried bread crumbs with which 3 tablespoonfuls brown sugar have been sifted. Set it in the oven till the crumbs form a crisp brown crust. If the ham is to be baked, take it from the water, drain thoroughly, then take off the skin except around the shank, where it may be cut in Vandykes with a sharp-pointed knife. Cover with crumbs and stick it full of cloves, set in a moderate oven, and bake two hours. If you prefer the ham glazed, allow it to cool as for boiled ham, then skin, wipe dry, and brush all PORK 129 over with beaten egg. Mix 1 cupful sifted craclcer crumbs, a dash salt and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls melted but- ter, and cream enough to make crumbs into a paste. Spread it even- ly over the ham, set in a moderate oven, and bake till brown; serve hot with brown sauce. When a baked or boiled ham goes to the table, wrap about the unsightly bone a ruffle of white tissue paper, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. Ham Steak. Put slices of raw ham in a frying pan with i cupful water to make them tender. When the water has boiled out and the ham is light brown on both sides, dust with ilour and pour on the following dressing, pre- viously made: A cupful milk and cream mixed, a little butter, a tea- spoonful mustard, and a dash Men- benny's Tabasco Sauce. As soon as it boils, serve. Broiled Ham and Eggs. Slice the ham thin, take off the rind, and soak the slices in hot water. Broil carefully and place on a. hot platter. Break as many eggs as you require into a pan of boiling water; when the white is done, dip out care- fully and lay the egg on ham. Sprinkle pepper and salt over each egg and serve. Sausage Bolls. Make a dough as for baking-pow- der biscuit; roll out and cut in large rounds with a biscuit cutter; lay sausage meat on half of each piece; turn the other half over and pinch to- gether; bake half an hour. Serve with brown sauce poured around it. Toad in the Hole (English recipe). 1 cupful flour, 1 egg, 1 cupful milk. Salt and pepper, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder, 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Sausages. Put the flour in a basin with the salt and make a well in the center. Break the egg and put it in with a quarter of the milk. Beat well, then add the remainder of the milk by de- grees, beating a^ the time. Melt the butter in a pudding tin. Parboil the sausages, cut them in halves, and put them in the tin. Add the baking powder to the batter, and pour it over the sausages. Bake in a hot oven half an hour. a. Bread Raiser ; b, Fluted Cake Tin with Tube in Center; c. Crown Mold for Jellies. Sausage and Apple. Prick the skins of the sausages, simmer in a frying pan fifteen min- utes, drain, and brown in the oven; make a sirup of 1 cupful each sugar and water, and in it cook pared ap- ples, cut lattice fashion, a few at a time, to preserve the shape. Serve the sausage on the apple. Broiled Pigs' Peet. Scrape the feet and wash them thoroughly, soak in cold water two hours, then wash and scrape again. Split each in half lengthwise, and tie the pieces separately in pieces of cheese cloth. Place in a deep saucepan, cover with boiling wa- ter, add 1 tablespoonful salt, and simmer slowly until the feet are tender, usually about four hours. Take them from the liquor and set aside until cold; remove the cloths; they are ready then to be broiled in the following: 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, J teaspoonful salt, 130 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, J tablespoonful finely chopped parsley. Cream the butter. Work gradu- ally into it lemon juice, salt, tabasco, and parsley. After* removing the cloth from each piece, brush with melted butter and dust with salt and pepper. Broil over a clear fire for six minutes. Transfer to a hot plat- ter, and spread with prepared butter. The pigs' feet may be prepared the day before needed. Fried Salt Pork, Cream Gravy. i pound salt pork, 1 cupful cream. 1 teaspoonful flour. Pinch pepper. Wash the pork, trim off the rind, and with a sharp knife cut in thin slices. Spread in a large spider and place at the side of the fire until the fat is well fried out, then draw gradu- ally forward until the slices begin to color. Transfer them to a heated platter and keep hot. Pour off most of the fat, leaving about 2 table- spoonfuls in the pan; stir into this the cream, and when it comes to the boiling point, thicken slightly with flour blended with a little cold milk. Season with pepper; boil up once, and pour over the pork. CHAPTER XX PORK AND HAM LEFT-OVERS CoiJj pork, in the estimation of some persons, is better than when it is hot. Serve it in neatly cut slices for tea or luncheon at the second meal, then take stock of the remains and look to the future. Roast-pork bones make an excellent brown stock, almost as rich as that of roast beef. Trim the scraps from the bones and consign them to the soup kettle. Cut with a keen knife all the fat from the meat that is not to be served cold. This fat rendered down makes an ex- cellent dripping to saut^ potatoes. Chop, and allow it to melt, strain, and set away in the refrigerator. The tender white meat of pork makes a salad which tastes very much like chicken. Sometimes if one has a few bits of chicken left over, they may be combined with the pork, cut in neat cubes, and the fraud can scarce- ly be detected. Pork makes excellent croquettes or is good sliced and re- heated in a cup of its brown gravy. It may be minced, enriched by a few spoonfuls of gravy, and poured on toast for a breakfast dish. Cold ham has a multitude of uses. A few scraps may be converted into a delicious sandwich or gives an excellent flavor to a salad omelet or egg dish. Even cold sausage has its uses, while a slice or two of cold broiled bacon put through a meat chopper and added to croquette mixtures provides an agreeable seasoning. Ham Souffle. Take 2 cupfuls cold minced ham, add the white of 1 egg and beat till smooth. Then put in a dash of pap- rika, 1 cupful whipped cream, and 2 whites of eggs beaten stiff. Pour into an oiled melon mold, bake, and serve with tomato sauce poured around it. Ham Griddlecakes. * 1 cupful minced ham, 2 cupfuls stale bread criunbs, 2 eggs, Pepper, 1 cupful scalded milk. Mix the ham and crumbs with the milk and well-beaten eggs. Drop by spoonfuls on a. hot buttered griddle. Ham Balls. Mince remains of lean ham, and mix with an equal quantity of mashed potatoes. Mold into small, flat cakes, roll in flour, and brown in a spider with slices of salt pork fried out. Ham Toast. 2 cupfuls cold ham, 2 eggs, i cupful cream, i teaspoonful mustard. Pepper. Chop very fine the cold ham, add the weU-beaten eggs, cream, a little pepper and mustard. Heat this mixture till almost at the boiling point, and spread on slices of but- tered toast. Shredded Ham. i tablespoonful butter, 6 tablespoonfuls currant jelly. Dash cayenne, 1 cupful cold ham. Cut the ham into narrow strips. Put the butter and currant jelly in a saucepan. As soon as they are melted, 131 132 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK add the cayenne and ham, and sim- mer five minutes. Ham Sandwiches. 2 cupfuls finely chopped ham, 1 cucumber pickle, 2 teaspoonfuls made mustard, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, J teaspoonful pepper. Put the ham through a meat chop- per, using the finest knife. Mix per- fectly smooth with the butter and seasonings and spread between slices of bread from which the crusts have been cut Eam-and-Potato Fie. 1 cupful cream sauce, 2 cupfuls cold potatoes, IJ cupfuls cold chopped ham, i cupful dried bread crumbs. Chop the ham coarsely and cut the potatoes Into dice. Butter a vege- table dish, put in a layer of cold po- tato, then a layer of ham, and pour over it i cupful cream sauce. Cover with another layer of potato and ham. Pour in the remainder of the sauce, and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake twenty minutes. Block Island CrocLuettes. 1 cupful minced ham, 1 cupful stale bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls chopped cold .pota- toes, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 egg. Mix the ham, crumbs, and potatoes with the butter and egg, make intor small balls, flour, egg, crumb, and fry in hot fat. Fork Cutlets. 2 cupfuls chopped cold pork, 2 eggs, i cupful cracker crumbs, 1 teaspoonful minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful minced onion, 1 tablespoonful cream. Pepper and salt Beat the eggs thoroughly, mix with the cream, stir in the chopped pork, cracker crumbs, onion, parsley, and seasoning. Form into cutlet-shaped croquettes, roll in flour, egg, and crumbs. At the small end of the cro- quette stick in a few inches of maca- roni. Fry in deep fat, and serve with tomato sauce. CHAPTER XXI POULTRY Ik selecting a chicken, feel of the breastbone; it ought to be smooth and soft as cartilage and bend easily. A young cliicken has soft feet, a smooth skin, and abundance of pin- feathers. Long hairs, coarse scales on the feet, and an ossified breast- bone are pretty sure signs that it is an old fowl. By the same marks you may choose a tender, young turkey, also ducks. To dress and clean poul- try, hold the bird over a flame, either alcohol, gas, or burning paper, and blaze off all the hair and down. Cut off the head and pick out the pin- feathers with a fine-pointed knife. With an old fowl or turkey it is worth while to pull the tendons. This operation makes the dark meat so much more tender. Find the portion just behind the leg joint where there are a bunch of tendons, with a fine- pointed scissors, cut very carefully the cartilage skin that covers them, and strip it down till you leave exposed the bunch of white sinews. If the bird is fairly tender, they can be pulled by inserting a stout steel skewer, lifting each tendon by itself and twisting it until it snaps. A tur- key will frequently require something as strong as a screw-driver. To admit the hand, make an incision through the skin just below the breastbone and remove the gizzard, heart, etc.; be very careful not to break the gall bladder, as even a drop of its con- tents would give a bitter flavor to everything it touches. Pull out the lungs-i— they lie inside the ribs — also the kidneys, crop, and windpipe. Draw the neck skin down and cut the neck off close to the body, leav- ing skin enough to cover the open- ing. Cut out the oil bag in the tail, then wash the fowl by allow- ing cold water to run through it. If the chicken is to be cut up, sever the skin between the leg and body, bend the leg back, and cut through the flesh. Separate the second joint from the drumstick, take off the limbs and cut the breast away from the back, starting just below the breastbone and letting the knife pass between the small ribs on either side through to the collar bone. When trussing a fowl for roasting or boil- ing, draw the legs close to the body and iilsert a skewer xmder the middle joint, running it straight through un- til it comes out opposite. Cross the drumsticks, tie them with a long string together and fasten to the tail. Put the wings close to the body and keep them in place by a second skewer. Draw the skin of the neck under the back and pin down with a toothpick. Now turn the bird on its breast, take the string attached to the tail and tie to the lower skewer, cross iti draw through the upper skewer, and cut off the ends. Braised Chicken. Truss a plump chicken, fry in the fat of salt pork, place on a trivet in a deep pan; into the fat put a carrot cut in squares, J onion, i bay leaf, and a sprig parsley. Add 3 ta- blespoonfuls butter and allow the vegetables to fry delicately brown. Pour this over the chicken. Add 2 cupfuls hot chicken broth, cover, and set in a moderate oven. Baste fre- quently, adding water to the stock, if necessary. Lift the chicken to a hot platter, skim off the fat, thicken the gravy and season, then strain over the fowl. 133 134 MRS. ' CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Broiled Chicken. Sprinkle a chicken, which has been cut up, with salt and pepper, dip into melted butter, then place in a broiler. Cook twenty minutes over a bright fire, turning the broiler so the pieces may be equally brown. Put on a platter spread with soft butter, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and set in the oven for a few minutes be- fore serving. Grilled Chicken. Choose small chickens, split down the back, and soak each in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, for an hour or two. Coat with flour, and broil over a clear fire till done. Into a, saucepan put 1 cupful water and an onion; let cook fifteen minutes, take out the onion, and pour the sauce over thin slices of toast, on which arrange the chickens. Garnish vrith fried parsley. Chicken with Dumplings (New Eng- land recipe). 3 or 4 pound chicken, 1 tablespoon ful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 3 onions, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, i cupful milk, 2 cupfuls prepared flour. Cut chicken in 10 pieces and place in saucepan. Add salt, pepper, and onion, cover with boiling water, and cook till tender; then mix flour with butter, and thicken the gravy. Ten minutes before serving, mix pre- pared flour with butter and milk, and 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth; cut with a tablespoon small portions frota the dough, drop them into the gravy, cover, and boil six minutes; remove the saucepan to side of stove, where they may stop boiling. In serving, arrange the chicken on a platter, and lay the dumplings in a circle around it. Sprinkle 1 table- spoonful chopped parsley over the whole, and serve. This dough will make 12 dumplings. Chicken Baked in Milk. Prepare a chicken as though for roasting. Mix a dressing — using crumbed bread, butter, salt, and pep- per. Stuff the chicken with this mixture; place it in a baker. In the bottom of the pan put 2 quarts rich milk; cover, and bake slowly, until the chicken is very -tender, turning and basting as often as necessary. Thicken the gravy in the pan, season- ing with salt and pepper. Chicken in Casserole. 2i-pound chicken, 1 can mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 stalk celery, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 cupfuls boiling water. Clean and truss the chicken, and steam untU tender. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the vegetables chopped fine, cook five minutes, then add the flour. Dissolve the beef ex- tract in boiling water, add the sea- sonings, and pour it into the frying pan. Cook five minutes. Put the chicken in a casserole, dredge with flour, dust with salt and pepper, and pour the contents of the frying pan over it. Place it in the oven, and cook until the chicken is thoroughly browned. Remove from the oven, cover, and serve in the casserole. Fanned Chicken. Prepare a chicken as for broiling, slightly flatten it, cover with bits of butter, and place in a moderate oven. When nearly done, sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour; return to the oven and brown, first on one side, then on the other. Keep hot while yon make the sauce. Pour a cupful hot milk into the pan, and add 1 tablespoonful grated bread crumbs, also a few drops onion juice. Stir the sauce vigorously, let it boil POULTRY 135 one minute, turn over the chicken, garnish with parsley, and serve. I'ried Chicken (Southern recipe). Cut a young chicken into neat pieces, drop in cold v^ater, then roll in flour seasoned with salt and pep- per. Put it in a saucepan with fat which has been fried out of salt pork, and cook, turning once or twice till it is well browned. Skim off as much of the fat as possible, add a cupful cream or rich milk, thicken with a little flour, seasoning if necessary, and strain over the chicken. Chicken with Almond Sauce (South- ern recipe). 1 young chicken, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1 tablespoonfiil flour, 3 cupfuls cream, 1 tablespoonful finely chopped parsley, 1 cupful chopped blanched al- monds. Cut up the chicken as for fricas- see; fry golden brown in hot lard. Put it on a hot platter and make the sauce. Thicken the lard (in which the chicken was fried) with the flour; when the flour is cooked, add the cream, parsley, and almonds. Let it boil five minutes, and pour around the chicken. Chicken with Peanuts (Spanish recipe). Cut a young chicken into small pieces, roll in flour, and fry brown in lard or. butter. When the chicken is done, pour over it a cupful sweet cream and sprinkle liberally with roasted peanuts coarsely powdered. Creamed Chicken and Sweetbreads. 4-pound chicken, 4 sweetbreads, 1 can mushrooms, 1 quart cream, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 5 tablespoonfuls flour, 4 grated onion. Nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Boil chicken and sweetbreads; when cold, cut them up. In a saucepan put cream; in another butter and flour. Stir until melted, then pour on the hot cream, stirring until it thickens; add onion and nutmeg, and season highly with pepper and salt. Put chicken and other ingredients, with sweetbreads and mushrooms, in a baking dish, cover with bread crumbs and butter, then bake twenty minutes. Chicken Fie. Stew a cut-up chicken in enough boiling water to cover, adding pep- per and salt. When parboiled, re- move to a deep earthen dish and cover with a crust. Use a recipe for rich baking-powder biscuit. Instead of putting a blanket of the dough on top of the pie, cut it into rounds, as for biscuit. Have the chicken laid lightly so the gravy will not touch the dough, and cover as closely as possible. Bake in a, moderate oven until the crust is well risen and brown. This is an improvement on the old style of all-over crust, partly because it allows plenty of escape for steam. The biscuit can be easily served, and the paste is not made heavy by cutting with a knife. Roast Turkey. Remove the crusts from a stale loaf of bread. Break the loaf in the mid- dle and grate or rub the bread into fine crumbs. Season highly with salt and pepper. Add a cup of diced celery, cooked tender. With a fork mix celery and seasoning through the crumbs, then sprinkle with them 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls melted butter. With a spoon put the prepared crumbs in the place ' from which the crop was removed until the breast be- comes plump. Put the remaining crumbs in the body. Do not pack the crumbs closely either in crop or body, but allow room for them to swell when moistened by the steam from the turkey in cooking. Fold back the wings. Press the legs close to the body, crossing the drumsticks 136 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in front of the taU. With small skewers and strong cord fasten in proper shape. Place the turkey, back up, on a rack in the roasting pan. When the back is browned, turn the turkey over, and when the breast and sides are nicely browned, baste with a thin gravy every ten or fifteen min- utes until the fowl is cooked. An 8- pound turkey will cook in two hours. Use the water in which the celery was cooked to make basting gravy for the turkey. — Emma P. Ewing. Boast Chicken. 4-pound chicken. 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, i cupful boUing water. Singe the chicken, wash it quickly in cold water, then dry with a towel; season inside and out with salt, fill the body and crop with bread dress- ing, sew it up, and spread butter over the breast. Cover the breast with thin slices of larding pork; bend the wings backward, put skewers through the thigh and body, and place it in a roasting pan. Set the pan in a medium-hot oven and roast until the chicken has become a fine brown all over, basting frequently with its own gravy; then add i cupful boiling water; continue the roasting and basting tiU the cliicken is done, which will take from one to two hours, ac- cording to the age of the fowl. If the gravy gets too brown, add a lit- tle more water. The chicken feet, neck, and giblets may be used to make rice soup. Shortly before serv- ing, lay the chicken on a dish, remove the skewers and thread, free the gravy from fat, mix the cornstarch with cold water, add it to the gravy, stir, and cook for a few minutes; then add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce. Cook three minutes, strain, chop the boiled gib- lets fine and add to the sauce. Biead Dressing. i pound stale bread, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, S tablespoonfuls chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful thym^ 1 egg. Soak bread in cold water, place a, saucepan with butter and onions over the fire; cook five minutes without browning ; inclose the bread in a towel and press out all the water, add it to the saucepan, stir over the fire five minutes, then remove; when cold, add salt, pepper, thyme, and egg; mix weU and use as stuffing. Roast Suck. Pick, singe, and wipe outside of duck. Salt and pepper the inside after carefully drawing and wiping. Cut off the wings at the second point and truss the duck neatly. Roast in a very hot oven from one and a half to two hours in a baking pan con- taining a little water; baste fre- quently. Celery, onions, or apples, cored and quartered, are sometimes placed inside the duck to improve the flavor. CHAPTER XXII LEFT-OVER CHICKEN AND TURKEY Chicken, even at twenty cents a pound, is not more extravagant than roast beef, when one considers that everj morsel of it can be used, even to the bleaching of the bones in a soup. The carcasses of two good chickens or one turkey will make a quart or two of excellent stock. This means, of course, that every bone, the giblets, and every morsel of skin shall be saved. A careful housewife gath- ers aU these remains into a clean bowl and they stand in the refriger- ator until ready to be used. Cover them with cold water, add the sea- sonings suitable for chicken soup, and set far back on the stove, where it will take at least an hour to begin to simmer. In four hours it will be ready to strain. Never add salt to a soup till after it has cooked. Cool the stock as quickly as possible, but never by putting it steaming hot into the refrigerator. I have seen that plan followed in more than one house- hold; then I have heard the cook ex- claim in wonder over spoiled stock and other foods ruined. Still, the sooner stock cools, the longer it will keep. Do not break the cake of fat on top until ready to use; it excludes the air and helps keep the soup sweet. There is no meat so suitable for richaufis as chicken. It makes ex- cellent croquettes and timbales. Creamedr it loses none of its delicate flavor. It is excellent in p8,tis or on toast. It is good scalloped, deviled, curried, in fritters, or as «o«;^^, while on hot simnmer days it appeals to the appetite as a salad, in aspic jelly, in a mousse, or potted. The meat of turkey, game, duck, and goose may be treated in many instances as chick- en. The flavor of a turkey salad is 137 not as delicate as a chicken salad, still it is a dish not to be despised. The same rule ought to apply to the warming over of poultry as to other meats. Do not cook it a second time; all it requires is reheating. Scalloped Turkey. Into small ramequin dishes sprinkle dried bread crumbs browned in but- ter. Over this put a layer, one and a half inches deep, of chopped, cold turkey moistened by a spoonful giblet gravy. Cover with browned crumbs, and bake till chestnut brown. Chicken-and-Ham Hold. 3 cupfuls cold chopped chicken, 1 cupful chopped ham, 1 cupful cold boiled macaroni, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 cupful gravy, iPepper and salt. Mix the chicken, ham, and maca- roni, moisten with the eggs, melted butter and gravy, season highly. But- ter a, mold, pour the mixture in, put on cover tightly, and boil two hours. Dip the mold into cold water for a minute and turn out on a hot dish. Serve with tomato sauce. Chicken Omelet. 3 tablespoonfuls milk, 4 eggs. Salt and pepper, 1 cupful chopped cold chicken. Beat the eggs till light, add milk and seasoning. Just before pouring into the pan, add the chicken to the egg mixture. Melt the butter in an 138 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK omelet pan, cook, and fold exactly like an omelet. Chicken Gallosch (Hungarian recipe) . 3 potatoes (raw), 1 tablespoonful butter, i teaspoonful paprika, 1 cupful brown stock, i teaspoonful salt, J clove garlic, 1 cupful cold chicken. Pare 3 small potatoes, cut into dice, and fry in melted butter in the spider. Toss about in the butter till they begin to brown, add the season- ing, stock, and chicken. Simmer slowly. Serve as soon as the pota- toes are soft. a. Spoon for Beating Cake; b. Wire Toaster ; c, Purie Sieve. Chicken and Macaroni (Italian recipe). 1 cupful cold macaroni, 2 cupfuls cold chicken, 6 mushrooms, i cupful cream, J cupful chicken stock, i cupful dried bread crumbs. Pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful butter. Into a buttered dish put a layer of macaroni, then a layer of chicken cut in small strips. Sprinkle with pep- /per and salt and the mushrooms cut in quarters. Cover with a layer of macaroni, another of chicken, then pour over it the cream and stock. Sprinkle buttered bread crumbs over the top, and bake brown. If it browns too quickly, cover with a plate, and pour a little more stock in. Chicken Souffle. 5 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 tablespoonfids butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 2 cupfuls scalded milk, 2 cupfuls cold chicken, i cupful stale bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, 3 eggs. Make a white sauce from the but- ter, flour, salt, pepper, and milk. Add the crumbs, and cook until thick. Take from the fire and stir in the chicken, parsley, and yolks of the eggs beaten till thick and lemon- colored. Whip the whites until stiff and dry and fold in. Pour in a but- tered dish and set in a pan of hot water to bake in a hot oven thirty- five minutes. Chicken Croquettes. li cupfuls chopped chicken, 1 cupful chopped ham, 6 chopped mushrooms, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful chicken stock, 1 tablespoonful cream. Pepper and salt. Nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Put in a saucepan the flour and butter. Mix till the butter absorbs the flour, then add stock made from boiling up the bones of the chicken, and stir till it becomes a thick paste. Add cream, pepper and salt enough to season, a little nutmeg and lemon juice. Stir in the chopped chicken and mushrooms. Mix well and turn on a plate to cool. When quite cold, roll a tablespoonful mixture in oblong shape, dip in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. — ^Mar- garet Baiixt. CHAPTER XXIII MEAT OR FISH SAUCES Celery Sauce. 1 tablespoonful flour, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 head celery. Cut celery into pieces two inches long' and boil in salted water for an hour. Mix smoothly flour, butter, and milk, stir until boiling; add the celery pulp, season with salt and pepper and a little mace; let it boU quickly for two minutes. Strain. Anchovy Sauce. Bone 4 anchovies and bruise in a mortar to a smooth paste; stir them in a drawn-butter sauce, simmer five minutes, or stir in 2 teaspoonfuls es- sence of anchovy. A little cayenne is an improvement. Cardinal Sauce. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 3 cupfuls stock, J teaspoonful onion juice, 1 bay leaf. Cardinal sauce is, as a rule, made from lobsters and colored with coral; so, if possible, purchase lobsters con- taining coral. Boil the lobster, open and remove the coral, and press it through a sieve. Put the butter into pan and let melt. Add flour without browning, then add stock, onion juice, and bay leaf. Stir constantly until it boils. Take out bay leaf, add salt and pepper, the coral, and a little of the red part of the lobster chopped fine. Sauce Soublse. 3 onions, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. Peel and chop onions, simmer with butter for three quarters of an hour, but do not let them color very much. Add flour, salt, pepper, and a pinch of mace, and mix all together; moist- en with a cup of fish liquor and the same quantity of hot cream or milk. Serve in tureen. Sauce AUemande. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 3 cupfuls white stock. Yolks 3 eggs. Melt butter and mix thoroughly with flour over a gentle fire; add stock and a little salt and pepper; stir, boil fifteen minutes, remove from fire, skim off grease carefully, add eggs mixed in a little water, and stir in with egg beater to make sauce light. Spanish Sauce. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 cupfuls white stock, 2 J tablespoonfuls lean raw hara, 1 carrot, 1 onion sliced, 1 stalk celery, 2 cloves. Melt butter in saucepan, add flour, and stir over a gentle fire until nicely browned; mix with white stock, ham, carrot, sliced onion, celery, cloves, a pinch of salt and pepper; stir until beginning to boil, then simmer gently on back of stove for one hour; skim off grease before serving. Sauce Fiquante. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shallots. 139 140 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 bunch savory herbs. Parsley, i bay leaf, 3 slices lean bacon, 3 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade mace, 3 allspice berries, 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 cupful stock, i teaspoonful sugar, Cayenne and salt to taste. Put the butter into saucepan with the carrot and shallots cut into small pieces, add the herbs, bay leaf, spices, and ham minced fine; let these in- gredients simmer slowly until the bot- tom is covered with a brown glaze, keep stirring and put in remaining ingredients, simmer gently fifteen minutes, skim off every particle of fat. This is an excellent recipe when a sharp but not too acid sauce is required. Cucumber Cream Sauce. 1 cucumber, i teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful chopped parsley, i teaspoonful chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar, f cupful cream. Chop cucumber, season with salt, parsley, onion, and vinegar. Mix thoroughly and drain in colander half an hour. When ready to serve, add cream beaten stiff. Sauce Tartare. 1 cupful mayonnaise, 2 sweet pickled cucumbers, 3 olives, 1 tablespoonful chopped water cress, 1 teaspoonful capers, i teaspoonful onion juice. Stir into the mayonnaise the cu- cumbers, olives, water cress, capers, and onion juice. Brown Sauce. 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. 2 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 teaspoonful chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. Heat stock; blend together butter and flour, add to hot stock with cloves, bay leaf, parsley, and onion. Cook for a few minutes. Strain, and serve hot with cannelon of beef or rolled beef. HoUandaise Sauce. i cupful butter. Yolks 2 eggs, J cupful boiling water, J teaspoonful salt. Dash cayenne, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Cream the butter, add yolks of eggs one at a time, beating it thoroughly, then add water. Cook in a. double boiler till it thickens to the consist- ency of a custard. The seasoning, which consists of salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, is added just before the boiler is lifted from the fire. Bechamel Sauce. IJ cupfuls white stock, 1 slice onion, 1 slice carrot. Bit bay leaf. Sprig parsley, 6 peppercorns, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 cupful scalded milk. Salt and pepper. Cook white stock twenty minutes with onion, carrot, bay leaf, parsley, and peppercorns, then strain. It should be cooked down to about 1 cupful liquor. Melt butter, add flour, add the hot sauce to scalded milk, and season. White Mushroom Sauce. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 slice carrot, 1 slice onion. Bit bay leaf. Sprig parsley. MEAT OR FISH SAUCES 141 6 peppercorns, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 cupftils white stock, i can mushrooms, i teaspoonful lemon juice. Salt and pepper. Melt butter, add carrot, onion, bay leaf, parsley, peppercorns, flour, and, slowly, white stock. Cook five min- utes, remove seasonings, and add mushrooms cut in pieces. Add lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Shrimp Sauce. I cupful shrimps, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. Salt, pepper, paprika, 1 teaspoonful anchovy paste. Pound shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar. Boil afterwards for ten minutes in a cupful water. Press the liquor through a pur4e strainer. Mix butter and flour to a paste; pour over it the shrimp liquor. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika; add an- chovy paste. Just before serving, add six shrimps cut in inch pieces. Drawn-Butter Egg Sauce. 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonftd flour, 1 cupful fish stock, 6 slices hard-boiled egg. Salt and pepper. Cook together until well mixed the butter and flour. Add fish stock. Simmer five minutes, season with salt and pepper, and serve in a tu- reen in which have been placed the slices of hard-boiled egg. Thin White Sauce. 3 cupfuls milk, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Pepper and salt. Put the butter in a small saucepan, and let it melt over a slow fire. Add the flour, and blend to a paste \i;ith a wire whisk. Add the seasonings, then the scalded milk, and beat till the sauce gets creamy. Tomato Sauce. J can tomatoes, 1 slice onion, i cupful butter, 3 tablespoonfuls flour. Pepper and salt. Cook the tomatoes with onion for ten minutes, squeeze through a po- tato ricer, and to the pulp add the butter and flour rubbed to a paste, also the seasoning, then beat till creamy. Horse-B.adish Sauce. i cupful grated horse-radish, 4 tablespoonfuls powdered cracker, i cupful cream, 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar, i teaspoonful mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Blend all the ingredients together, heat over boiling water, and serve with boiled beef. Cold Eorse-Kadish Sauce. 3 tablespoonfuls grated horse- radish, 1 tablespoonful vinegar. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, i teaspoonful salt, i cupful thick cream. Mix the horse-radish, vinegar, and seasonings, then beat in with a fork the cream, which has been whipped to a stiff froth. Hint Sauce. J cupful sugar, J cupful vinegar, 1 cupfid fresh mint. Strip the mint free from its tough leaves and stalks; chop it slightly, wash and put in the vinegar, melt the sugar in a tablespoonful boiling wa- ter, add it to the sauce, and serve cold with roast lamb. CHAPTER XXIV VEGETABLES Potatoes, peas, corn, beans, and many of the vegetables which are universally used, receive fair treat- ment, but in American kitchens there is still much to learn on the subject of how to make the best of what a country cook calls " greens." In the spring, one craves this sort of food for the well-being of the body and because appetite demands it. The earth yields with the seasons exactly the sort of food we ought to eat, and eat liberally, for it is nature's own medicine. First, let us divide vege- tables into classes. There are such cereals as rice, then corn, and le- gumes, which include the large fam- ily of beans, peas, and lentils. In the root class we have beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips, and radishes. Green vegetables include a variety of things herbaceous, from cabbage to dande- lions. In bulbs there is the onion family and garlic; then what are called fruit vegetables, eggplant, pep- pers, okra, cucimibers, and squash. There is also the fungous class, such as mushrooms and truffles. Each class has a different food value; they require different treatment in cook- ery and are suited to accompany dif- ferent foods, although our nation would be in no way the loser, either in health or economy, if it learned, like the French people, to make an excellently cooked vegetable serve for one course. Before we consider the cooking of vegetables, let us study what their properties are and what they do for our bodies. Every vegetable contains more or less of what is called cellulose tissue. This helps to keep the stomach and intes- tines perfectly healthy. For instance. when we eat meat, we put into our stomachs a highly concentrated food that requires the addition of other foods, bulky and less easily digested, to make a perfectly balanced meal. Strange as it may seem, the value of vegetables lies in the fact that they are made up largely of a membranous substance so bulky and full of refuse that the stomach expels it to the in- testines almost in an unchanged con- dition. Meanwhile, the blood has taken to itself such mineral matter and salts as are necessary to the hu- man system. While digestion is in progress, the loose mass of cellulose is keeping up the peristaltic action that goes on for several hours after eating in the healthy stomach. It is not necessary that there be nourish- ment in everything we eat. We re- quire the pure distilled water and salts of green vegetables just as much as we do the proteid of meat and the nitrogen of legumes. To get the fullest value from vege- tables, they must be fresh. The coun- try woman, who can pick green things from her garden before the dew has dried from them, is lucky indeed. The best that can be done by a. city housewife is to do her own market- ing intelligently and carefully. In marketing, beware of root vegetables which are overclean about the roots. The greengrocer has his method of reviving stale goods; roots are soaked from a withered condition back to a fresh appearance. Cabbage and let- tuce are skillfully stripped of their outer leaves, and although dirty, sandy spinach is less attractive in looks than cleaner leaves, it is apt to be fresher than that which has been revived by washing. Even cucumbers, 143 VEGETABLES 143 eggplant, and tomatoes can be re- vived by an ice-water bath. Within thin, membranous walls vegetables in- close a semifluid mass that stores up minute cells of starch or other ma- terial. As soon as the tender growth of the young plant is over, these cells grow woody and tough. You can readily see this process in old asparagus, something we hesitate to eat; yet in thousands of families stale vegetables, which have devel- oped the same conditions as if they were old, are used for economy's sake. It would really, in such a case, be better to omit vegetables from a menu. One is eating woody fiber, which can be torn apart like threads, and is almost as easy as thread to di- gest. Suppose we see for ourselves just what this fibrous mass is like. Take two messes of peas, one of them green things fresh from the. pod. Cook in boiling water. They will be ready for the table in ten minutes, but first make them into a purie by forcing the pulp through a potato ricer. They contain little but pulp. Nothing ex- cept skins is left in the strainer. The value of fresh green peas lies in the sugar and mineral salts they contain. Now, take old dried peas such as are used as a base for soup. They have been soaking for twenty-four hours in cold water. Afterwards long, slow cooking softens them so they can be squeezed through the ricer. Then it actually takes muscle to get a purie from them, and it is small in propor- tion to the residue retained by the strainer. They are not only the dry, husky skins of the peas, but a quan- tity of pure waste which no stomach can properly digest. Still, this pulp made into a soup is a nutritious dish. That is why so many people with slow digestion can take in soup such vege- tables as corn, tomato, beans, lentils, and celery, when the vegetable in its entirety would cause no end of dis- tress. Every vegetable is almost lacking in fat; the legumes have the largest proportion, and they average only three per cent. Therefore, fat in some form is added to every vege- table dish. We beat cream or butter into mashed potatoes, bake beans with a bit of pork on top of them, and pour oil over salads. Now to the various methods of preparation and cooking of vege- tables. Probably root vegetables are used most largely in every household. Keep two utensils for their thorough cleaning, a small stiff brush, and a square of rough burlap. The brush scrubs earth from every crevice. Bur- lap is also a splendid cleaner. Put your vegetables into cold water and rub them thoroughly with it. It will bring the skin off clean from new potatoes. Carrots, parsnips, and sal- sify require scraping after they have had a rubbing with the burlap. Tur- nips, kohl-rabi, and celeriac should be pared. Beets must be well cleansed, but not broken anywhere, not even have the tops cut, or they will " bleed," thus losing their fine sweet flavor. With most of the root vege- tables, except potatoes, white and sweet, the only method for cooking is to boil them by dropping them into water at a bubbling boil. Turnips, carrots, parsnips, kohl-rabi, and ce- leriac will cook in half an hour if they are young and fresh; winter vegetables require from forty to sixty minutes. Young beets take an hour; old beets require boiling all day. The best way to cook them is to consign them to the fireless cooker. You can make these root vegetables as palat- able as skilled French cooks do by the simple process of blanching. Blanching means bleaching; it re- moves from winter vegetables their strong, acrid flavor. Then it improves their quality. Let us blanch turnips, for instance; then you can apply the same process to a variety of vegeta- bles. Have a large saucepan with 3 quarts water at a rapid boil; add 1 tablespoonfvil salt; drop into it the pared turnips and bring the water back to the boiling point as quickly as possible. Cook rapidly, uncovered, for thirty minutes. Drain off the wa- ter, put the turnips in a strainer, and 144 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK cool them under the cold-water faucet; then set away in a covered dish until you are ready to prepare them for the table. Cut them into rather large pieces, put in a saucepan with a ta- blespoonful butter, a dash pepper, a teaspoonful salt, and 4 tablespoonfuls meat stock or mUk. Cook over a, hot fire until the vegetables have absorbed both seasonings and liquid. Serve at once. Blanching of vegetables means a saving of time, because they may be cooked in the leisurely hours of the morning, then quickly reheated when dinner is being prepared. Cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, string beans, peas, onions, celery, kobl-rabi, carrots, parsnips, spinach, Swiss chard, artichokes, and salsify are vegetables which may be blanched be- fore the final cooking. Before using vegetables which form heads, such as lettuce, cabbage, cauli- flower, kale and Brussels sprouts, cleanse thoroughly by soaking half an hour, head down, in cold, salted water, with a few tablespoonfuls vine- gar in it. This makes insects or worms concealed among the curly leaves crawl out. Spinach requires no end of washing. The best way to cleanse it is to keep filling two pans with cold water and washing the greens till not a grain of sand settles in the bottom. Celery also reqviires thorough washing, as considerable dirt clings to both stalks and roots dur- ing the blanching process. Different vegetables require differ- ent methods of boiling. All of them should be dropped into water which is vigorously bubbling. For a few minutes, the process will be inter- rupted, but set it over a hot part of the stove, where it will begin to boil again rapidly. This must be con- tinued for herbaceous vegetables, young peas, and beans. Root vege- tables and cauliflower require gentler treathient. To quote a French cook, "Do not let the water grin; keep it smiling." As soon as vegetables are tender, lift them off the fire and drain, never allowing anything to stay in hot wa- ter a minute after it has been cooked. This soaking process is what so often makes vegetables indigestible, when, if properly treated, they would be perfectly wholesome. While cooking vegetables of any kind, leave the saucepan uncovered; volatile bodies liberated by heat pass off in steam. Cabbage and onions closely lidded are sure to fill the house with an un- pleasant odor as soon as they are un- covered ; if cooked without a lid, odors are scarcely noticeable. When peas and beans are so ripe as to be slight- ly tough, they may stiU be made ap- petizing and digestible if J teaspoon- ful soda is added to the water. This helps to make them tender as well as retain the color, but beware of adding too much soda; it wiU give the food an exceedingly nasty flavor. When possible, a skilled cook boils every vegetable in distilled water. The country cook who has clean, soft, cis- tern water at her command, should always use it in boiling vegetables. The housewife who is compelled to use very hard water to cook vegeta- bles should soften it slightly hy add- ing a dash of soda. Vegetables are invaluable for mak- ing cream soups. Take green peas, for instance. Boil 1 quart peas and 1 small onion in 3 pints water. When soft, squeeze the pur4e through a po- tato ricer; add it to the liquor in which the vegetables were boiled. Rub together 1 tablespoonful flour with 2 tablespoonfuls butter. This makes sufBcient thicu.ening. Season with 3 level teaspoonfuls salt and J tea- spoonful pepper; then add 1 quart scalding-hot milk. Cook ten minutes, stirring frequently. Serve with crou- tons or wafers. The outside stallis of celery, corn, beans, onions, potatoes, cauliflower, spinach, leeks, tomatoes, or lettuce may often be economically converted into cream soups. In this way a vegetable left-over is deli- cioxisly re-served. Boiling potatoes is such an every- day task that it seems almost xm- necessary to offer a recipe for it, yet VEGETABLES 145 how. seldom do we find a cook make the best of potatoes. If potatoes are " new," they should merely have their skins rubbed off with the burlap scrubber; if old, wash them well, soak half an hour in cold water, then pare off a ring lengthwise around the po- tato. This allows the sldn to be ta- ken off easUy after boiling. Put them in a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, add a tablespoonful salt, boil another fifteen minutes, then drain off every drop of water, and leave them to dry for ten minutes covered with a folded towel. A fav- orite method for serving many vege- tables is In cream sauce. A dish of creamed cauliflower wiU illustrate how potatoes, carrots, cabbage, peas, parsnips, artichokes, salsify, celery, onions, Brussels sprouts, and aspara- gus may be cooked. Blend 1 table- spoonful butter with 1 tablespoonful flour; then add gradually 1 pint hot milk, and beat till creamy. Add 1 teaspoonful salt, a dash pepper, and a small head blanched cauliflower broken into branches. Set it at the back of the stove where it may cook slowly for ten minutes. The best way to cook spinach for preserving its refreshing and laxative qualities is not to add water, for af- ter thorough washing the leaves re- tain enough moisture to steam it. Put it dry in a saucepan over the fire; in ten minutes it will be ready to drain and chop. Afterwards return it to the pan and season with 2 table- spoonfuls butter and a teaspoonful salt. Let it simmer ten minutes be- fore serving. Old, tough spinach is better if blanched before it is sea- soned and served. Boiled lettuce. Wash 4 or 5 heads lettuce, remov- ing thick, bitter stalks and retaining all the sound leaves. Cook in boiling salted water for ten or fifteen min- utes, then blanch in cold water. Drain, chop lightly, and heat in a stewpan with butter and pepper to taste, or the chopped lettuce may be heated with a pint of white sauce seasoned with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. After simmering for a few minutes in the sauce, draw to a cooler part of the range and stir in well- beaten yolks of 3 eggs. Beet Oreens. Wash thoroughly, put into a stew- pan, and cover with boiling water. Add a, teaspoonful salt for every 3 quarts greens. Boil rapidly for thir- ty minutes. Drain off the water, chop rather coarsely, season with but- ter and salt. Asparagus Tips in Cream. Cut the tender part of asparagus into short pieces. Add boiling water enough to cover the vegetable, and cook fifteen minutes. Serve in a cream dressing. Boiled Peas with Butter. Put 1 quart shelled peas in a stew- pan and add enough boiling water to cover them generously. When they begin to boil, draw back where the water will bubble gently. When ten- der, add 1 teaspoonful salt and 3 ta- blespoonfuls butter. Cook ten min- utes longer. If the peas are not the sweet kind, add a teaspooaful sugar. Peas with Pork. 1 quart peas, 4 ounces pork, 1 tablespoonful butter, J cupful water, 2 small white onions, J teaspoonful pepper. Cut pork into small bits. Put but- ter into stewpan; when it melts add the pork and cook gently until light brown, then add the water, peas, onion, and pepper. This is a good way to cook peas when they are old. Peas with Lettuce (French recipe). 1 quart peas, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 head lettuce (the heart), 1 small onion, 1 teaspoonful sugar, J cupful water. 146 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Put the vegetables into a stewpan, cover, and cook for five minutes. Draw the pan back where the con- tents will simmer slowly for half an hour, drain, season, and serve hot. Sugar Feas in the Fed. Gather the pods while the peas are very small. String them like beans and cut into two or three lengths. Cover with boiling water, and boil gently twenty-five or thirty minutes. Season with salt and butter, and serve at once. Shelled Beans Stewed. 1 quart shelled beans, i pound salt pork, 1 onion, J teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 quart boiling water. Salt to taste. Cut the pork in slices and fry ten minutes in a, stewpan. Add the onion, cut fine, cook twenty minutes. Cover the beans with boiling water and boil ten minutes. Drain off the water. Put the beans and flour in the stewpan with the pork and onion, and stir over the fire five minutes. Add the boiling water and pepper. Place the saucepan where its contents will simmer for two hours. Green Lima Beans. Cover 1 quart shelled beans with boiling water. Place on the fire where they will boil up quickly, then draw back where they will simmer until done. When tender, pour off part of the water. Season with a teaspoonful salt and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Dried Beans Santed. Soak beans over night, and cook until tender, but not broken. Drain when soft. For 1 quart beans put 3 tablespoonfuls butter in a stewpan. When hot, put in the beans, which have been seasoned with a tablespoon- ful salt and J teaspoonful pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes, frequently turning the beans with a fork. Cover, and let cook slowly for half an hour. If they are liked moist, add a cupful meat broth, then cook for half an hour. Baked Lentils. 1 quart lentils, 1 quart water, 6 ounces mixed salt pork, 1 clove garlic or 1 small onion, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Pick over and wash the lentils. Soak in cold water over night. In the morning pour off the water and put them in a stewpan with 2 quarts cold water and place on the fire. As soon as the water begins to boil, the len- tils will rise to the top. Take them off with a skimmer and put in a deep earthen dish, with the pork and onion in the center. Mix the pepper and salt with a quart boUing water and add. Put the dish in a moderate oven, and cook slowly four or five hours. The lentils must be kept moist, and it may be necessary to add a little water from time to time. — Mabia Paruoa. Stewed Okra. Use only the small green pods, not more than two and a half inches long. Wipe the pods, cut off the stems and tips, if the latter be dis- colored. Put them into boiling salted water and cook gently for twenty to thirty minutes. Drain off the wa- ter, add 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 ta- blespoonful vinegar, and a little pep- per and salt. Let them simmer at the back of the range until the butter is absorbed, then turn out without breaking the pods, and serve hot. Baked Hubbard Sc[nash. Select a thoroughly ripened squash, cut in halves and remove the seeds, scraping the inside thoroughly. Bake one and a half hours in a moderate oven, remove the thin brown skin and with a spoon scrape the squash out of the shell into a hot dish, mashing it with butter, salt, and pepper to taste. VEGETABLES 147 Scalloped Onions. Boil 6 or 8 onions till tender, changing the water once. Separate them with a fork and arrange in lay- ers in a buttered earthen dish, al- ternating the layers with buttered bread crumbs. Season with salt and pepper, pour over milk to nearly cover, spread with melted butter, and brown in a moderate oven. Yankee Fried Parsnips. Scrape parsnips thoroughly and parboil in salted water; cut in slices lengthwise, dip each piece in mo- lasses, and fry in fat. Tomatoes Stuffed with Succotash. Wash, wipe, and remove a thin slice from the stem end of 6 toma- toes, scoop out the inside, sprinkle with salt, invert, stand half an hour. Mix the pulp with 1 cupful succo- tash; stuff the tomatoes and arrange them in a buttered pan, sprinkle the top of each with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Baste with melted butter. Peppers with Macaroni (Italian rec- ipe). Cut the tops from green peppers, remove seeds and core, and let stand ten minutes in boiling water. Chop cooked macaroni into small pieces and mix with a thin cream sauce. Drain the peppers, fill with macaroni, adding to each a generous spoonful of grated cheese. Bake in a granite dish with very little water until the peppers are tender. Serve with to- mato sauce made from fresh or canned tomatoes pressed through a sieve and thickened with melted butter to which a tablespoonful flour has been added. Salt and a few drops of onion juice should be added, but no pepper. Pried Turnips. Peel the turnips, cut in inch cubes, boil until tender, drain, and fry in butter until golden brown on both sides. Potatoes Hashed with Green Peppers. To hashed brown potatoes add chopped bacon in the proportion of one slice to each person, and minced red or green peppers. Stuffed Cucumbers and White Sauce. Peel large cucumbers and cut lengthwise; scoop out the centers; fill with bread-crumb stuffing, plain or mixed with chopped meat; put side by side in a pan, and bake in a hot oven, basting frequently with melted butter and hot water. When the cucumbers are soft, remove, and put a spoonful white sauce over each as it is served. Corn Custard. 6 ears corn, 3 eggs, 1 cupful milk, J teaspoonful salt. Dash cayenne. Scrape the corn from the ears, beat the eggs, add the milk to the corn, then add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, and mix the eggs in lightly; bake in a deep buttered dish in a pan of hot water in the oven till a knife blade put into the custard comes out dry. Serve at once. Pepper Kings. Cut a large pepper in 4 rings, re- moving the seeds; boil fifteen min- utes; cut 4 rounds of stale bread and brown them in the oven. Butter the slices, lay a ring of pepper on each and fill the center with well-seasoned, cold minced meat. Moisten with wa- ter in which the pepper was boiled, adding salt and butter to season, and set in the oven. Chile con Came (a Mexican recipe). Soak 1 pint dried Lima beans over night; in the morning arrange in the bean pot with 1 pound solid lean beef, 2 ounces sweet fat or suet, a red pepper cut in rings, and \ onion, shaved. Cover with water, season with salt, J teaspoonful mustard wet up with vinegar, a dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, and bake slowly in a 148 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK moderate oven for three or four hours. To Boil Cabliage. Cut a head of cabbage in 4 parts. Soak half an hour in a pan of cold water to which has been added a tablespoonful salt; this will draw out insects or worms that may be hidden in the leaves. After soaking, cut in slices. Have a large stewpan half fiill of boiling water; put in the cab- bage, pushing it under the water with a spoon. Add 1 tablespoonful salt, and cook twenty-five to forty min- utes. Turn into a colander and drain; put in a chopping bowl and mince. Season with butter, pepper, and more salt if required. Allow a tablespoonful butter to a pint cooked vegetable. Cabbage Cooked with Pork. For a small head of cabbage use i pound salt pork. Boil the pork gently for three or four hours. Pre- pare the cabbage, and boil rapidly till tender. Serve the pork with the cabbage. Creamed Cabbage. 2 cupfuls boiled and minced cab- bage, 1 cupful hot milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful flour, J teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Put the cabbage, hot milk, salt, and pepper in a stewpan. Beat the but- ter and flour together until creamy, then stir into the contents of the stewpan. Simmer ten minutes; serve very hot. Cabbage and Potato Puree. 2 cupfuls boiled finely minced cabbage, 6 medium-sized potatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, i teaspoonful pepper, 1 cupful hot nulk. Peel the potatoes and put them in a stewpan with enough boiling water to cover. Cook thirty minutes. Pour off the water and mash fine. Beat in the hot milk, seasoning, and cabbage. Cook five minutes longer. Boiled Cauliflower. Remove the green leaves and the greater part of the stalk. Put the head in a pan of cold water which contains to each quart a teaspoonful salt and a teaspoonful vinegar. Let it soak an hour or more. Put the cauliflower in a large stewpan, stem down, and cover with boiling water. Add a tablespoonful salt, and cook with the cover of the saucepan par- tially off, boiling gently all the time. A large, compact head requires half an hour, small heads from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Cauliflower be- gins to deteriorate the moment it is overcooked. Creamed Cauliflower. 2 cupfuls cooked cauliflower, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful butter, J tablespoonful flour, 3 slices toasted bread. Break th^ cauliflower into branches and season with half the salt and pepper. Put the butter in a sauce- pan. When hot, add the flour, and stir until smooth, then add the milk, stirring all the time. When the sauce boils, add salt, pepper, and cauli- flower. Cook ten minutes; serve on toast. Brussels Sprouts Blanched. Remove wilted or yellow leaves from the sprouts, cut the stocks close to the head, and soak in salted cold water for an hour or more. Drain and put into boiling water. Allow 1 teaspoonful salt to 2 quarts water. Boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. When done, turn into a colander and pour cold water over them. They are ready now to serve with any kind of sauce, or can be seasoned with butter, salt, and pepper. VEGETABLES 149 Brussels Sprouts Sauted. 1 quart Brussels sprouts, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, J teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper. Blanch the sprouts and drain well. Put them in a saucepan with butter and other seasonings. Place over a hot fire and shake frequently. Cook five minutes; serve hot. Kale Boiled with Pork. Cook kale the same as cabbage with pork. Minced Kale (Scotch recipe). Remove old or tough leaves. Wash the kale thoroughly and drain; then put to cook in a kettle of boiling water to which has been added 1 tablespoonful salt to 4 quarts water. Boil rapidly tiU tender. Pour off the water, and chop the kale fine; put back into the kettle, add 1 table- spoonful butter and 2 tablespoonfuls meat broth for each pint minced vegetable. Cook ten minutes, and serve at once. The time required for cooking kale varies from thirty to fifty minutes. To Boil Spinach. To clean spinach, cut off the roots, break the leaves apart and drop in a pan of water, rinsing them well. Con- tinue washing in clean water until there is no sand left in the bottom of the pan. Drain and blanch. For i peck spinach have 3 quarts boiling water and 1 tablespoonful salt. Let it cook ten minutes, counting from the time it begins to boil. Put the spinach in a colander, and pour cold water over it. Drain well, and chop. Spinach with Cream. 2 cupfuls boiled spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper, 1 cupful scalded cream. Mince the spinach. Put the butter in a saucepan on the fire. When hot. add the flour and stir until smooth, then add the minced spinach and salt and pepper. Cook five minutes; then add cream, and cook three minutes longer. Spinach with Egg. 3 cupfuls boiled spinach, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 teaspoonful pepper, 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls salt. Drain the blanched spinach and chop fine, return to the saucepan, and add salt, pepper, and butter. Place on the fire, and cook ten minutes. Heap in a mound on a hot dish, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Spftiach Cooked without Water. Young, tender spinach can be cooked without water. When weU washed, put in a stewpan over the fire; cover, and cook for ten minutes. Turn it several times during the cooking. Put it in a chopping bowl and mince fine. Return to the stew- pan and add seasonings, allowing for i peck spinach 2 generous table- spoonfuls butter and a teaspoonful salt. Simmer ten minutes; if very tender, five minutes will be sufficient. Cucumber Sauted. Boil pared and quartered cucum- bers for three minutes. Drain the pieces, and season with salt and pep- per. Roll in flour, and cook in a saucepan with butter for twenty min- utes. This dish may be varied by adding minced parsley and chives about five minutes before the cooking is finished. Stewed Tomatoes. Peel tomatoes and cut in smaU pieces. Put into a stewpan on the fire. Boil gently twenty minutes or half an hour. Season five minutes be- fore the cooking is finished. Allow for each quart tomato 1 teaspoonful salt and sugar and 1 tablespoonful butter. 150 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Scalloped Tomatoes. 2 cupfuls peeled and cut toma- toes, 2 cupfuls grated bread crumbs, 1 level teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter. Dash pepper. Reserve 3 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs, and spread the remainder on a pan. Brown in the oven. Mix the tomato, browned crumbs, salt, pep- per, and half the butter together, and put in a shallow baking dish. Spread the unbrowned crumbs on top, and a. Teller Knife ; b. Cutter for Potato Balls ; c, Butler Brush for Greasing Cake Tins; d. Pancake Turner ; e. Bent Spoon for Giv- ing Medicine, dot with the remainder of the butter, cut into bits. Bake in a moderately hot oven half an hour. Stuffed Gieen Peppers (Italian recipe). 6 sweet peppers, 1 pint soaked stale bread, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 tablespoonful fine herbs, J teaspoonful sweet basil and summer savory, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Cut off the stem end of the pepper and remove the interior, being care- ful to take out every seed. Fill the peppers with the dressing. Place them on end in a shallow dish, and pour around them a sauce prepared as follows: 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, IJ cupfuls meat stock, 1 teaspoonful salt. Heat the butter; add the flour. Stir until ginpotb and brown, then add the meat stock. Season with salt. Cook five minutes, pour around the stuffed peppers. Put the dish in a moderately hot oven and bake the peppers one hour, basting with the sauce in the dish. Peppers may be filled with a well-seasoned dressing of chopped meat, with or without the addition of bread crumbs or rice. Beans in a Casserole (Spanish recipe). 2 cupfuls white or pink beans, 1 onion, Small piece pork or bacon, 1 cupful canned tomatoes, 2 shredded chili peppers. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Soak the beans over night. In the morning boil fifteen minutes and drain. Fry the onion with the pork or bacon. Add these to the beans, also the tomato, peppers, salt, and sufficient hot water to cover well. Boil briskly for ten minutes, then put in a casserole, and bake in a slow oven four hours. Cauliflower Browned. Soak cauliflower in cold water for a few hours, boil one hour in salted water, drain, and sprinkle with a few drops of vinegar mixed with salt and pepper, and dust with soft bread crumbs fried in butter till brown. Boiled Turnips. Peel and slice the turnips; drop In a stewpan with boiling water enough to cover. Cook until tender, then drain. Mash with a wooden vegeta- ble masher. Season with salt, butter, and pepper. Serve at once. Hashed Turnips. Chop drained turnips in large pieces. Return to the stevirpan, and for IJ pints turnips add a teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper, a table- spoonful butter, and 4 tablespoonfuls water. Cook over a hot fire until the turnips have absorbed the seasonings. Serve at once. Or the salt, pepper, butter, and a tablespoonful flour may be added to the hashed turnips, then VEGETABLES 151 the stewpan be placed over the hot fire and shaken frequently to toss up the turnips. When the turnips have been cooking five minutes in this manner, add J pint meat stock or milk, and cook ten minutes. Carrots mtli Wliite Sauce. Scrape carrots lightly, then cut into large dice. Put in a stewpan with salted water and boil until tender. Young carrots will cook in thirty minutes, old ones in forty-five. Drain, put back in the stewpan, and for every pint add 1 tablespoonful but- ter, 1 teaspoonful sugar, J teaspoon- ful salt, and 1 gill meat stock. Cook imtil they have absorbed the season- ings and liquid. Salsify. To prevent salsify from turning dark, drop it as soon as pared and cut into a mixture of flour and water made slightly acid with vinegar. Cook thirty minutes, drain, and serve in a white sauce. Or mix 1 tablespoonful butter, J teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoon- ful lemon juice, and 1 teaspoonful minced parsley. Add this to the drained salsify, and serve at once. Beets with Butter. Wash beets, being careful not to break the skins. Put in a stewpan, cover with boiling water, and boil un- til tender. Young beets will cook in one hour. When tender, take from the boiling water and drop into cold water. Rub off the skins. Cut in thin slices and season with salt and butter. Serve at once. Boiled Kohl-Rahi. Wash and pare the vegetable, then cut in thin slices. Put in salted boil- ing water and boil until the vegetable is tender. This will take from thirty to fifty minutes. Pour off the water, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Stewed Celery. Remove the leaves from the stalks. Scrape rusted or dark spots, cut into pieces three inches long, and put in boiling water. Add 1 teaspoonful salt for 2 quarts water. Boil rapidly fifteen minutes. Pour off the water, rinse with cold water, then drain. Finish in the following manner: Put the celery in the stewpan with 1 tablespoonful butter, and 1 teaspoon- ful salt for each quart celery. Cover, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Shake the pan frequently while the celery is cooking. Serve hot. — Mabia Pablo A. Boiled Onions in White Sauce. Peel the onions and drop in cold water. Put in a stewpan with boil- ing salted water. Cook rapidly for ten minutes. Drain off the water and cover the onions with hot milk. Simmer half an hour. Beat together 1 tablespoonful butter and 1 level tablespoonful flour. Add 1 teaspoon- ful salt and J' teaspoonful white pep- per. Gradually beat in J cupful of the milk in which the onions are cook- ing. When smooth, stir the mixture into the onions and milk. Let it cook ten minutes longer. Stewed Onions. Cut the onions in slices and boil in salted water ten minutes. Drain, add 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 tea- spoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper. Cover the stewpan, and cook over a hot fire five minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. Set it back where it will cook slowly for forty minutes. Stewed Cucumbers. Stew pared cucumbers, cut in quarters, for fifteen minutes, with a little water and a small minced onion. Pour off the water; stir in flour, but- ter, and salt; heat for two or three minutes, then serve. Baked Eggplant. For baked eggplant make a dress- ing as for stuffed peppers, except that a little more salt, pepper, and butter are used. Cut the eggplant in two lengthwise, scrape out the inside, and mash fine, then mix with the 152 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK dressing and return to the shells. Place on a pan in the oven. Cook forty-five minutes. — ^Maeia Pabloa. I^ied Eggplant. Cut the vegetable in slices half an inch thick and pare. Sprinkle with salt and pile them upon one another; put a plate with a weight on top. Let them rest an hour, then remove weight and plate. Add 1 tablespoon- ful water, i tablespoonful salt, and J teaspoonful pepper to an egg. Beat well. Dip the slices of eggplant in the egg, then in dried bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Broiled Eggplant. The eggplant is sliced and drained; then spread the slices on a dish, sea- son with pepper, baste with salad oil, sprinkle with dried bread crumbs, and broil. Snmmer Squash. Wash the squash, cut into small pieces, and cook in boiling water or steam. The cooked squash is mashed fine and seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Boiled Com on the Cob. Free the corn from husks and "sUk." Drop into boiling water, and cook ten minutes. Corn Cut from Cob. Corn may be cut from the cob and heated with butter, pepper, and a lit- tle milk. First cook the ears five minutes in boiling water to set the juice. Then with a sharp knife cut through the center of each row of grains, and with the back of a knife press the grains from the hulls. Put it in a saucepan and season with salt, pepper, and butter. Add enough hot milk to moisten well, and cook ten minutes. Beans -with Gravy (Mexican recipe). Soak 2 cupfuls beans over night; in the inoming add a small onion and boil gently until soft; take out the onion and drain the beans. Put a tablespoonful lard in a skiUet, and when sizzling hot add the drained beans. Mix beans and lard thor- oughly until each bean seems to have a coating of the fat and begins to burst. Add a cupful liquid in which the beans were boiled, and gently crush a few of the beans with the spoon to thicken the gravy. Add the remainder of the bean liquor and a chopped chili pepper, and simmer un- til the beans are dry. Cidracayote (Mexican recipe). Take young summer squash, wash and cut into dice. Put in a stewpan a tablespoonful lard, and when hot add i teaspopnful finely minced onion; stir, then put in the squash, salt, and black pepper. Fry for ten minutes, stirring often, add tender, sweet corn fresh from the cob, J cup- ful corn to a pint squash. Cook until sufSciently soft to mash. — ^Mat E. SODTHWOKTH. Ejotes con Vino (Mexican recipe). Cook string beans until tender in boiling salted water. Fry a little chopped onion and green pepper in oil till brown; add the beans, with a seasoning of salt and pepper. Estilo Seco (Mexican recipe). Boil a pint pink beans until tender. Put in a frying pan a heaping table- spoonful lard and butter mixed ; drain the beans and put into the boiling fat; add a sliced onion, salt, and red pepper. Stir and brown slightly. Ten minutes before taking from the frying pan, add 7 tablespoonfuls grated American cheese. Serve with thin slices of hot buttered toast and sliced cuciunbers with oil and vine- gar. — Mat E. Southwobth. Suculento (Mexican redpe). Fry i poimd chopped salt pork with a sliced onion and 6 green pep- pers cut small. When brown, add a can of corn and 4 small summer squashes sliced. Cover with milk, and cook slowly two hours, without stir- ring. VEGETABLES 153 Beans a la Bretonne (French recipe). Boil J pint tiaricot beans till tender; slice 4 large onions, and fry tliem in butter till brown. Put the beans and onions together in a stewpan, and add a little strong stock, pepper and salt, and finely minced parsley. Serve hot. Beans a la Poulette (French recipe). Put young, tender beans in a stew- pan with plenty of water, and a handful salt, and set them over a strong fire. When done, blanch, drain, and put in a stewpan with a bit of butter, an onion or two cut in dice, and previously fried in butter. Sprinkle in a tablespoonful flour; let them stew a few minutes, but do not allow them to brown; add a spoonful stock, some minced parsley and green onions, with salt and pepper. Let them come to a boil, stirring well, and thicken with the yolks 2 eggs, beaten in a little cream. Just before serving, add the juice of a lemon. Turnips Glace an Sucre (French recipe). Clean young, tender turnips, put them in a stewpan with a small piece of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, a little salt, and J pint stock. Simmer forty minutes. When nearly done, place the stewpan over a brisk fire to reduce the sauce to a glaze, rolling the turnips about in it, but with great care to avoid breaking them; dish, and pour the glazed sauce over them. Stewed Ked Cabbage. Split a red cabbage, cut in thin slices, soak in salt and water, then put in a saucepan with some stock and a little butter blended with flour; add pepper and salt, a glass of vine- gar, and a bit of bacon. Stew till tender, take out the bacon, and serve. Shredded B.ed Cabbage (Dutch recipe). Cut a red cabbage in shreds and boil till tender; drain as dry as pos- sible; put in a stewpan with a table- spoonful pure olive oil, a tablespoon- ful butter, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar and water, an onion cut small, some pepper and salt. Let it simmer till all the liquor evaporates. This is eaten in Holland hot or cold. Chouffleurs au Gratin (French recipe). 1 cauliflower, 2 tablespoonfuls grated Parme- san cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Dash pepper and salt, 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice. Yolks 2 eggs. Boil the cauliflower, drain, put it on the dish in which it is to be served ; prepare a sauce of the cheese, butter, pepper, and salt, lemon juice, and yolks of eggs beaten; beat and mix together, pour it over the cauliflower, grate Parmesan cheese over the top, put in the oven, and bake twenty min- utes. Brown the top. Artichokes a la Creme (French recipe). Boil artichokes in salted water; when they are done, drain. About half an hour is sufficient to cook them if they are tender. Toss in butter in a stewpan, add some cream and a lit- tle chopped parsley. Thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg; season with salt and cayenne. Leland Tomatoes (English recipe). Wipe 4 tomatoes, pare, and cut in 3 slices. Sprinkle with salt and pep- per, dredge generously with flour, and sautfi in butter, first on one side, then on the other. Remove to a hot serving dish and pour over them the following sauce: Melt 2i tablespoon- fuls butter, add 2i teaspoonf uls flour, and stir until blended; then pour on, while stirring or beating constantly, 1 cupful milk. Bring to the boiling point, season with salt and pepper. Tomato Surprise. 6 tomatoes, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls red pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls green pepper, 1 shallot. 154 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 clove garlic, 4 anchovies. Wipe the tomatoes, cut a slice from the stem end of each, scoop out the inside, invert, and stand thirty min- utes. Add the eggs, peppers, shallot, garlic and anchovies finely chopped. Moisten with mayonnaise dressing. Fill the tomato cases with the mixt- ure, mask with mayonnaise, and gar- nish with anchovies. Serve as a first course at dinner. Broiled Tomatoes. Wipe and cut tomatoes in halves crosswise; then cut a thin slice from the rounding part of each. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, place in a well-buttered broiler, and broil six to eight minutes. Baked Tomatoes. Wipe 6 smooth, medium-sized to- matoes and remove a thin slice from the stem end of each. Take out the seeds and pulp and drain off most of the liquid. Add to the pulp an equal quantity of buttered cracker crumbs, and season with salt, pepper, and a few drops of onion juice. Re- fill the tomatoes with the mixture, place in a buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Deviled Tpmatoes. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, 1 teaspoonful mustard, I teaspoonful salt. Few grains cayenne. Yolk hard-boiled egg, 1 egg slightly beaten, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Wipe, peel, and cut tomatoes in slices. Sprinkle with salt and pep- per, dredge with flour, and saut£ in butter. Remove to a hot serving dish, and pour over a dressing made from the above ingredients. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Pried Com. Scrape corn carefully from the cob. Cut through the center of the kernel, so that all the pulp and juices may be extracted without the removal of the hulls. Sift a little flour over the corn, with salt and pepper to taste. Place some slices of bacon over the fire in frying pan, until all the grease has been extracted. Remove the meat and put the corn in the pan to fry in the bacon fat until it becomes deli- cately brown and tender; it must be stirred constantly for fifteen or twenty minutes. Corn Patties Garnished with Husks. Green corn, 3 eggs, 1 cupful fine cracker crumbs, i teaspoonful sugar. Pepper and salt. This calls for enough green corn after it has been grated to make a pint. To the corn add 3 eggs and the cracker crumbs, season with salt and pepper — about J teaspoonful pepper and a teaspoonful salt. Add the sugar and form the mixture into cakes about the size of a large oyster; then roll in egg and afterwards in cracker crumbs. Wash the corn husks and shred the ends with a fork for about two inches. Arrange them on a platter with the fringe hanging over the sides. Cook the patties in smoking-hot lard until brown and crisp; then heap in a mound in the center of the platter and serve at once. — Mabia Paeloa. Vegetarian Sausages, IJ cupfuls Lima beans, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 teaspoonful salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco ■ Sauce. Soak the beans over night, cook in salted water until soft. Drain per- fectly dry, then squeeze the pulp through a potato ricer. Beat in the butter and seasonings. If not moist VEGETABLES 155 enough, add a beaten egg or as much of it as required, make the paste so soft it can be rolled into croquettes. Shape like small sausages, dip in beaten egg and flour, then fry in but- ter, rolling the sausages over in the pan till brown on all sides. Serve with cold slaw. Beans a la Bretonne (French recipe). J pint haricot beans, 4 large onions, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful brown stock. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful finely minced pars- ley. Boll the beans till tfender; slice the onions thin, and fry in butter till brown. Put the beans and onions in a stewpan and add the stock, pepper, salt, and parsley. Serve very hot. Prenoh Beans k la Foulette (French recipe). Put young, tender beans in a stewpan with plenty of salted water. When cooked, blanch, dr^iin, and re- turn to stewpan with a bit of butter. Sprinkle in a tablespoonful flour; let them stew a few minutes, but do not allow them to brown; add a table- spoonful stock, minced parsley, and green onions with salt and pepper. Let them come to a boil, stir well, thicken with yolks 3 eggs, beaten in a little cream. Just before serving, add juice of a lemon. Curried Onion. Fry sliced onions in butter or fat; salt and pepper, then add 1 teaspoon- fiJ curry, 3 raw eggs, and a few drops lemon juice. Serve hot. CHAPTER XXV LEFT-OVER VEGETABLES The possibilities for utilizing cold vegetables are greater than for any dish that comes to the American ta- ble. Almost every vegetable in com- mon use, from the ragged outside leaves of lettuce to a cupful cold string beans, may reappear as a tasty Iiot dish or a tempting salad. Left- over spinach, corn, lettuce, tomato, string beans, peas, squash, cauliflower, carrots, onions, or beans may be con- verted into savory soups, and nearly every vegetable in the marlset when cold can reappear as a salad. If the left-overs are many and small, the result may be a Macedoine salad. This is the name given to a salad in which cold boiled vegetables are com- bined. Each vegetable is kept sepa- rate, and generally the dish can be arranged in such a charming scheme of color that it is a pleasure to the eye. Vegetables may be cut in cubes, strips, triangles, tiny balls, or in fancy shapes, formed by a vegetable cutter. During the summer, when young beets, turnips, carrots, and green vegetables are at their best, these salads may be had in perfection. If left-overs of vegetables come from the table coated with cream sauce or mayonnaise, put each by itself in a colander. Wash off in cojd water, drain thoroughly, chill before using, and it will be as good as if freshly cooked. Plenty of a crisp green vegetable, lettuce, water cress, or parsley, is necessary to make a Mace- doine salad perfect. Spinach in Holds. 2 cupfuls cold spinach. Pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful melted butter. Drain the spinach and chop fine. Season and stir in the melted butter. Butter Dario molds and pack in the mixture. Set on ice until chilled. Remove from the molds and arrange the spinach on thin slices of cold boiled tongue cut in rounds. Garnish the base of each with parsley, and serve on top a spoonful sauce tar- tare. Baked-Bean Sandwiches. i cupful baked beans, 1 tablespoonful horse-radish, 1 teaspoonful celery and parsley minced fine, i teaspoonful onion juice, i teaspoonfxd mustard. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Press the beans through a potato ricer, mix with the seasoning, and spread between slices of entire-wheat bread. Corn Soup. 1 quart veal stock, 1 cupful green corn cut from the cob and chopped. Add the corn to the stock and sim- mer slowly for twenty minutes. Add pepper and salt to taste, thicken slightly, and strain. Fea Soup. 3 cupfuls cold green peas, 4 cupfuls veal stock, 1 slice onion, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper, 2 tablespoonf uls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Add the peas and onion to the stock and simmer till they begin to fall to 156 LEFT-OVER VEGETABLES 157 pieces. Rub through a sieve, reheat, season, and bind with butter and flour rubbed together. Peas that are too old to serve as a vegetable may be used for soup. Cream-of-Corn Soup. 3 cupfuls cold corn, 2 cupfuls boiling water, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 slice onion. Sprig parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Pepper and salt. Put the corn through a meat chop- per. Add the boiling water and sim- mer for twenty-five minutes. Rub through a sieve. Scald the milk with the onion and parsley. Remove the seasonings, and pour the milk over the corn pulp. Melt the flour and butter together and use for binding. Season with pepper and salt. Baked-Bean Soup. 3 cupfuls cold baked beans, 2 cupfuls water, 4 cupfuls stock, 2 slices onion, 3 stalks celery, IJ cupfuls canned tomatoes, 2 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, Salt and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Put the beans, celery, onion, to- matoes, with the stock and water, into a saucepan and simmer half an hour. Rub through a sieve, leaving nothing in the sieve except the skins of the beans and the seeds of the to- mato. Add the seasonings, bind with the butter and flour melted together.. Wilted lettuce. 1 slice ham, i cupful vinegar, 1 egg, i teaspoonful mustard, Pepper and salt. Outside leaves 2 heads lettuce. Fry a slice of ham with some fat on. When done, remove the ham, leaving the fat gravy in the frying pan. Have ready the vinegar, beaten egg, mustard and pepper and salt to taste. Add the egg to the vinegar slowly so it will not curdle. When well mixed, pour slowly into the ham gravy, stirring well. Let it come to a boil. Put the lettuce in with a fork, toss and thoroughly mix with the hot mixture in the frying pan for two minutes. Cover the pan for two minutes, then turn out in a deep dish. Vegetable Hash. From the remains of a boiled din- ner there are generally enough left- overs to make a vegetable hash. o, Meatchopper; b. Wire Spoon for Beating Sauces; c. Potato Ricer; d. Glass Measuring Cup ; e. Cream Whip. Chop coarsely cabbage, turnips, pars- nips, potatoes, and J a carrot. Com- bine in equal quantities and to each pint of the vegetable use a tablespoon- ful butter melted in a spider. Pep- per and salt to taste and add 2i tablespoonfuls brown stock. Cook slowly, and let it just come to a boil. Serve hot with pickled beets. Sauce Eobert. 2 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 8 tablespoonfuls oil mayonnaise, 4 tablespoonfuls French mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 2 cold boiled onions. Chop the onions fine and mix with the other ingredients. This is a deli- cious accompaniment to pork tender- loin, veal cutlet, lamb chops, or a steak. 158 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Cabbage Jelly (German recipe). Drain cold boiled cabbage perfect- ly dry, chop fine, add butter, pepper, and salt to taste. Press the whole closely into a small pudding dish, and bake an hour. Corn Omelet. 1 cupful cold com, 3 eggs, i cupful milk, i teaspoonful salt. Dash pepper, 1 tablespoonful butter. Chop the corn slightly. Beat the yolks of the eggs till thick, mix with the milk, salt and pepper. Add the corn and fold in the whites of the eggs beaten dry. Melt the butter in an omelet pan, pour in the mixture, and cook exactly as you would an omelet. Corn Fritters. 1 cupful cold chopped corn, 1 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. Yolks 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper. Whites 2 eggs. Beat the yolks till thick and lemon- colored, add the milk and seasoning, then the corn, flour, and baking pow- der. Last of all, cut in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drop from a tablespoon into hot lard, and fry a delicate brown. Curried Vegetables. 1 cupful cold potatoes, 1 cupful cold carrots, i cupful cold turnips, i cupful cold peas, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 slices onion, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, I tablespoonful salt, i teaspoonful curry powder. 1 teaspoonful pepper. Dash celery salt. 1 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. Cut the potatoes, carrots, and tur- nips into tiny cubes; add the peas. Pour over them the onion cooked in the butter for five minutes. Add flour, and seasonings, and pour on slowly the scalded milk. Sprinlde with finely chopped parsley. Spinach Rechauffe (French recipe). 2 cupfuls cold spinach, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, I cupful chicken stock, 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar. Salt and pepper. Grated nutmeg. Grated lemon rind. Chop the spinach fine, reheat in a double boiler with the butter, in which has been melted the flour and chicken stock. Add the seasonings. Baked-Bean Barebit. 2 tablespoonfuls butter, i teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful paprika, 1 cupful cold baked beans, i cupful milk, 2 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, § cupfuls chopped cheese. Press the beans through the potato rlcer and sprinkle the pulp with the seasonings. Put in an omelet pan with the butter, and when hot add the milk and cheese. Stir till thoroughly blended. Serve on slices of toast laid on very hot plates. Onion Sonffle. i cupful stale bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1 cupful cold boiled onions. Yolk 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour. i teaspoonful salt Paprika, 1 cupful milk. Whites 2 eggs. LEFT-OVER VEGETABLES 159 Chop the onions fine. Make a white sauce from the butter, flour, seasonings, and milk. When it boils, add to it the bread crumbs, parsley, chopped onion, and beaten yolk of the egg. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and fold them into the onion mixture. Pour into a but- tered dish and bake fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with cream sauce. Scalloped Tomatoes and Onions. IJ cupfuls cold boiled onions, 6 tomatoes. Pepper and salt, 1 cupful buttered crumbs. Cut the tomatoes into thin slices and chop the onions fine. Butter a baking pan. Put in a layer of sliced tomatoes, season with pepper and salt. Cover with a sprinkling of but- tered crumbs, cover with sliced onions, then a layer of tomatoes. Make the last layer onion slices covered lib- erally with crumbs. Bake in a mod- erate oven three quarters of an hour. Uonday's Sonp. i can tomatoes, 6 boiled or baked potatoes, i onion, 1 stalk celery. Few celery tops. Pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 1 cupful hot milk. Pinch soda. Boil vegetables together until they are soft. Put through a potato ricer, add pepper, salt, and soda. Just be- fore serving pour in the milk with a pinch of soda dissolved in it. Sift over the top dry bread crumbs. Green-Pea Sonp. Take what remains of the peas cooked for dinner the day before and a little of any kind of soup left, and boil together until the peas are soft. If you have a heaping cupful peas you can make soup enough for four or five persons. Put in salt and pep- per and onion. The quantity of each must depend upon the character of the soup which you have put in. Put a tablespoonful butter into a frying pan, and when it is hot, put a hand- ful stale bread cut in dice. Stir un- til they are quite brown. Strain the soup, rubbing the peas through a colander. Sprinkle in a little chopped parsley and a few celery tops cut up fine. Put the fried bread in the tu- reen, and pour in the soup. Savory Cauliflower (Dutch recipe). Steam cold boiled cauliflower imtil it is hot, and pour over it a sauce made as follows: Boil 1 cupful thin cream, thicken by adding 1 teaspoon- ful flour, stirred smooth in a little cold cream; let the mixture boll up, stirring constantly, add a pinch salt, a little pepper, and » small quantity nutmeg. Cauliflower an Fromage (French recipe) . Put cold boiled cauliflower in a bake dish, and turn over it enough drawn butter to moisten; grate cheese over the top, cover with sifted bread crumbs, put small bits of but- ter on top, and bake until light brown. Asparagus Omelet. Put a tablespoonful butter in a frying pan; when melted, pour in a eggs which have been beaten jUst enough to mix the yolks with the whites; stir constantly; when the mixture thickens, take from the fire, season with salt and pepper, and stir into it what you have left of cold boiled asparagus cut into small bits. CHAPTER XXVI POTATOES Boiled Potatoes. In boiling potatoes, choose tubers, if possible, which are of the same size. When this cannot be done, put the larger potatoes at the bottom of the saucepan, the small ones on top. Wash, pare, and put in cold water to prevent them from becoming discol- ored. During the winter, when pota- toes grow old and soft, soak for two hours before cooking. Put in boiling salted water and cook until soft. Drain and serve in a dish with folded napkin over them. Baked Fotatoes. Select the smoothest and most wholesome potatoes for baking. Scrub with a, vegetable brush and lay- in a baking pan. They will require forty minutes in a hot oven. Serve immediately or they are apt to be- come soggy. Hashed Fotatoes. Take boiled potatoes and put them through a potato ricer, add butter, milk, pepper, and salt, and beat with a fork until fluffy. Heap lightly in a dish and, if you wish, brown them over the top. Scalloped Fotatoes. Cut potatoes in thin slices, put in layers in a baking dish sprinkled with pepper and salt, dredged with flour, and with a little butter here and there. Pour hot milk over it, until the milk can be seen through the po- tatoes, sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake in a hot oven for an hour. Potatoes Baked on Half Shell. Bake 6 or 8 good-sized potatoes; as soon as they are soft, cut in halves leo lengthwise, scoop out the inside, mix with butter, cream, pepper, and salt, and the whites of 3 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Whip the potato until white and fluffy, then put back into the skins and rake them with a fork until they have a rough appearance on top. Return to the oven, and bake until brown on top. Potato Omelet. Prepare mashed potatoes; put them in a spider in which a tablespoonful butter has been melted, smooth with a palette knife, allow them to cook a few minutes over a moderate fire; when delicately crusted underneath, score in the center, fold omelet fash- ion, then put on a hot platter. Potatoes a la HoUandaise (French recipe) . IJ cupfuls white stock, 3 cupfuls potato cubes, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, i teaspoonful salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful shredded parsley. Pare the potatoes, cut into small cubes, and soak for half an hour in cold water. Cook until almost soft in the white stock, drain, and add the lemon juice, butter, and seasonings. Cover the saucepan and set back on the stove where it will not cook for five minutes. Serve in a vegetable dish sprinkled with the parsley. Boasted Brown Potatoes. Wash and pare potatoes, soak in cold water, boil for seven minutes, then remove from the kettle and lay in the gravy of a roast about half an POTATOES 161 hour before the meat is to be taken from the oven. Baste with fat two or three times. Sweet potatoes may be cooked in the same way. Chamtaey Potatoes (French recipe). Wash and pare potatoes, then cut into thin flakes on a vegetable slicer, soak for half an hour in ice water, drain, and dry in a towel. In an iron spider fry out a couple slices salt pork, cook 2 slices onion delicately brown, lift out the onion, then put in •*he potatoes, having the spider more than half full, season with pepper and salt and dot over the top with bits of butter. Set the spider back on the stove where there is moderate heat. Cover tightly until the potatoes are softened and brown. Occasion- ally, while cooking, turn them over to prevent burning. Hongroise Potatoes (French recipe). 1 cupful scalded milk, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 cupfuls potato cubes, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful lemon juice. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Soak the potato cubes in ice water half an hour. Parboil three minutes, and drain. Put the butter in a spi- der, aind saut^ the potatoes delicately brown. Add the seasonings, dust on the flour, and pour in the hot milk; allow it to cook for a few minutes, then turn into a hot dish and sprinkle with shredded parsley. Potatoes Brabanconne (French rec- ipe). Into 2 cupfuls mashed potatoes, stir a tablespoonful finely chopped chives, 1 teaspoonful chopped pars- ley, a dash pepper, teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls butter, and a table- spoonful cream. Turn out on a plat- ter, shape into a mound, dust over it grated cheese and stale bread crumbs. Cover with bits of butter, and brown in the oven. POTATOES WHICH ARE PEIED Saratoga Chips. Pare potatoes, slice into thin shav- ings on a vegetable cutter, and allow to soak in ice water for an hour. Lift from the water, dry in a towel, fry in deep fat or oil until they curl and are delicately brown. Shake as free from fat as possible before lift- ing frying basket from the kettle, and put to drain on absorbent paper. Dust with salt. Be careful that the fat is not too hot, as the potatoes must cook before they brown, also allow the fat to reheat each time be- fore frying another portion of pota- toes. Prench Fried Potatoes. Wash and pare potatoes, cut them into lengthwise strips, and soak an hour in ice water. Drain and dry, then fry in hot fat. When taken from the kettle, shake them on a sheet of brown paper to absorb the fat, and dust with salt. Be careful not to cook too many potatoes at a time, as the fat is apt to become chilled and the potatoes grease- soaked. Pried Potato Balls. 2 cupfuls hot mashed potatoes, J teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful celery salt. Dash cayenne, 1 tablespoonful butter, - 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful shredded parsley. Into the hot potatoes beat the but- ter and seasonings. Allow it to cool for a few minutes, then add the pars- ley and egg. Whip with a fork until thoroughly blended, roll between the hands into small balls, dip in flour, fry in hot fat, and drain on brown paper. Potato Croquettes. Prepare mashed potatoes as for fried balls, adding a little onion juice and a dash Mcllhenny's Ta- 162 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK basco, make into cork-shaped cro- quettes, roll in flour, egg, and finely sifted bread crumbs. Fry delicately brown in hot fat, then drain and ab- sorb on paper. Kartoffelklosse , (German recipe). 3 cupfuls mashed potatoes, 1 cupful toasted bread crumbs, 2 eggs. Dash pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, i teaspoonful nutmeg. Beat the bread crumbs into the mashed potatoes, add the seasoning and parsley, moisten with the yolks of eggs beaten thick and lemon-col- ored. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, then blend with the po- tato. Mold into small balls and fry until delicately brown dn hot fat. Kartoffelklosse has sometimes a tea- spoonful baking powder added to the mixture and they are boiled like dumplings in salted water, when they puff up till half as large again; then they are served with tomato sauce poured about them and a sprinkling of crisp, buttered bread crimibs. SWEET POTATOES Boiled Sweet Potatoes. Select potatoes which are of about the same size; if wished, they may be boiled in skins and peeled before go- ing to the table, or pare them, and cook twenty minutes in salt water. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Wash potatoes, wipe, dry, and bake quickly in a hot oven. If they cannot be served immediately, prick with a fork and allow the steam to escape to prevent becoming soggy. Sweet Potato (Southern style). Bake medium-sized potatoes; when they are soft, cut in two lengthwise and scoop out the inside with a spoon. Put it through a potato ricer, have butter, salt, pepper, and enough thick cream to moisten. Whip with a fork until light and fluffy, refill the skins, heaping the potato into rough little motmds, and bake delicately brown. Sweet Potatoes in Cream (Southern recipe). When baking sweet potatoes, re- move a large one from the oven whUe still firm. When cool, pare it, and chop to the size of peas; season with salt and butter and heap lightly in a buttered baking dish. Pour over it 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls cream, spread the top with melted butter and dust with powdered sugar. Sweet-Potato Croquettes. Two cupfuls mashed, boiled, steamed, or baked potatoes; add the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, and season to taste. When cold, form into small croquettes, roll in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard to an amber color. Serve on a napkin. Broiled Sweet Potatoes. Steam, pare, and cut in slices three eighths of an inch thick, lay the slices in a double broiler; salt, cover with melted butter, and broil over a slow fire. Glazed Sweet Potatoes. Boil sweet potatoes until nearly cooked, then peel and cut into quar- ters lengthwise. Lay on a baking platter, sprinkle over them salt, brown sugar, and melted butter, add a few tablespoonfuls boiling water. Set in a hot part of the oven, and bake till the potatoes are covered with a thin brown glaze. CHAPTER XXVII LEFT-OVER POTATOES Studt all sorts of methods for making warmed-up potatoes good and so different that they will not taste alike twice. One day there may be a suspicion of onion about the dish, another the rich flavor given by a spoonful beef extract, a dash chives, parsley, cayenne, or celery, or they may appear au gratin with a delicate cheese flavor. Mashed potato may be warmed again or reappear in a dozen different ways. There are a few rules to remember in the keeping of left-over potatoes. Never put them hot into the refrig- erator. Do not allow them to stand in an uncovered dish. They will ac- quire a tough, disagreeable skin, and are reduced to nothing by paring. Use cold potatoes before they are two days old. In hot weather they will not keep more than twenty-four hours. The sense of smell will speed- ily reveal to you if they have soured. In hot weather use potatoes as of- ten as possible in a salad. In this, too, seek variety. There are endless recipes for potato salads. Do not make a salad of old potatoes, the newer they are the more satisfactory the salad. In Germany, potatoes for a salad are always boiled in their skins, and it is a fact that they taste better than when pared before cook- ing. The neatest method for prepar- ing them is to cut the potatoes into cubes about half an inch square or in tiny balls with a potato scoop. Do not cut them too thin or small. They break, and nothing looks more unin- viting than a mushy potato salad. Potatoes absorb a great deal of dressing, and they ought to marinate at least an hour before being served. One of the most acceptable of potato salads is a combination of potato and pickled beet with Worcestershire Sauce and onion juice. Another is made with finely sliced onions as a flavor, and a sprinkling of chopped tarragon, parsley, and chervil. A third has celery and chopped cabbage with minced pickle and a hard-boUed egg. Mushrooms and minced pickle are a favorite addition to a potato salad, while lettuce or celery enters into the make-up of others. There are a few things among vegetables that wiU combine well with potatoes. Cold peas are good, so are tomatoes, green peppers, olives, asparagus, red cabbage, cauliflower, capers, turnips, carrots, cucumbers, or string beans. Sometimes a relish is added to the po- tato salad by a few slices of salt sal- mon, several anchovies, or sardines. Sweet potatoes may be put through the potato ricer and converted into croquettes or a pudding or pie. They may be glazed with sugar and butter, warmed in cream, or make an excel- lent soafflii. Another way is to cut them in thick slices, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat, or slice them into a fritter batter, and fry. Selmonico Potatoes. S cold potatoes, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cupful milk, i teaspoonful salt. Dust pepper, J cupfiil grated cheese. Cut the potatoes into fine dice, make a white sauce from the butter, flour, milk, and seasonings, and toss the potatoes lightly into the sauce. Turn into a baking dish, sprinkle with 163 164 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK grated cheese, and bake till light brown. Potato PufEs. 2 cupf uls finely chopped cold po- tatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 egg, Pepper and salt, 3 tablespoonfuls flour. Mix the potatoes thoroughly with the seasonings, flour, egg, and cream. Drop by spoonfuls in hot fat in a spider. Stewed Potatoes. Cut cold potatoes in neat small slices. Scald 1 cupful milk, 1 table- spoonful butter, and seasoning of salt and pepper. Add the potato. Let it boil up, and serve very hot. lyonnaise Potatoes. 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, S cold potatoes. Pepper and salt. Chop the onion, and fry five min- utes in the butter. Into this put 5 potatoes cut into dice, season with pepper and salt. Serve when brown and crisp. Browned Potato. Boil a pint or 3 of the tiny po- tatoes left in a barrel and let them cool. Skin and saut6 in 3 tablespoon- fuls clarified butter. Pepper and salt while in the spider. When well browned, put in a heated vegetable dish and sprinkle with chopped pars- ley. Creamed Potatoes. 3 cupfuls cold boiled potatoes, IJ cupfuls white sauce. Cut the potatoes into fine slices, and heat in the white sauce. Chartreuse Potatoes. 3 cupfuls cold boiled potatoes. Pepper and salt, i teaspoonful onion juice, J cupful flour, i teaspoonful salt, i cupful milk, 1 egg. Mix the flour, salt, anfl pepper. Add the milk gradually and well-beaten egg. Cut the potatoes into quarter- inch slices. Sprinkle with salt, pep- per, and onion juice. Put together in pairs. Dip into the batter. Fry in deep fat and drain. Potatoes with Hard-Boiled Eggs. 8 cold boiled potatoes, 6 hard-boiled eggs. Pepper and salt, 2 cupfuls thin white sauce, i cupful buttered cracker crumbs. Cut the potatoes and eggs into quarter-inch slices. Put a layer of potatoes in a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with pepper and salt. Cover with a layer of eggs cut in slices, then a layer of potatoes. Pour over it the white sauce. Cover with crumbs, and bake until brown. Whipped Potato. If you have 2 cupfuls cold mashed or riced potato, put a tablespoonful butter and 4 tablespoonfuls milk or cream in the double boiler, then add the potato. Leave the lid off. In ten minutes it will be hot. Beat with a silver fork till light and fluffy. Serve as ordinary mashed potato or use it as a border for any dish. It tastes like newly cooked potato. Suchesse Potatoes. 3 cupfuls cold mashed potatoes, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls cream. Beat the yolk of the egg till very thick, add the cream to it, and work into the potatoes. Shape in small pyramids. Rest each one on the broad end in a buttered tin. Beat the white of the egg slightly; add to it a teaspoonful mUk and brush each cone with the mixture. Bake till golden brown. Serve on a hot platter garnished with parsley. Potato Croquettes. 3 cupfuls cold mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful butter, i cupful cream. Whites 2 eggs. LEFT-OVER POTATOES 16S Salt and pepper. Grating nutmeg. Warm the potatoes, add the butter, . cream, well-beaten eggs, salt and pep- per to taste, and a, slight grating of nutmeg. Let the mixture cool, then shape, roll in egg and cracker crumbs, and fry. Potato Scones (Scotch recipe). Take cold mashed potatoes, moisten with cream, and work in sufScient flour, with which baking powder is mixed, to make a firm dough, adding a' pinch salt. Roll out the potato paste, sprinkle with dry flour, roll in beaten egg, again in flour, cut into rounds, and bake on a hot griddle for ten minutes ; butter while hot, and serve. Fotato-and-Tomato Salad. 1 cupful boiled new potatoes, 1 cupful fresh tomatoes, 1 green pepper. Cut the potatoes in neat cubes, the tomatoes in quartered slices. Arrange in layers on a nest of lettuce leaves, sprinkle each layer with chopped green pepper, salt, and powdered sug- ar. Pour over it a French dressing. Glazed Sweet Potatoes. 6 cold sweet potatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. Pepper and salt. Pare the potatoes and cut in two lengthwise, dusting with pepper and salt. Melt the butter and sugar to- gether; dip the slices of potatoes in this. Arrange in a baking pan, and bake till they are rich brown. Sweet Potatoes (Cuban recipe). 8 cold sweet potatoes, i cupful water, 1 cupful brown sugar, 1 teaspoonful butter. Pare cold sweet potatoes that have been boiled or baked. Put them in a sirup made from the water, sugar, butter, and a dust of cinnamon. Bake until the potatoes are covered with a fine, brown glaze. Sweet-Potato Salad. 3 cupfuls cold sweet potatoes, 1 cupful celery, 6 olives, 1 tablespoonful minced parsley. Cut the potatoes into small cubes- and the celery into inch pieces. Mix and finish with French dressing. Sprinkle with sliced olives and pars- ley. Sweet Potatoes au Gratin. IJ pints cold sweet potato, 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Pepper and salt, i cupful buttered crumbs. Cut the potatoes Into tiny cubes and arrange in a loose layer in the bottom of a buttered, baking dish. Sprinkle with pepper, salt, sugar, and morsels of butter. Repeat with another layer of potato; on top put a layer of buttered crumbs. Bake till well browned. Hashed Brown Potatoes. J cupful fat salt pork, S cupfuls cold boiled potatoes, i teaspoonful pepper, J teaspoonful salt. Try out the fat salt pork, cut in small cubes, remove scraps. Add the potatoes, finely chopped, pepper, and salt. Mix potatoes thoroughly with fat; cook three minutes, stirring con- stantly; brown underneath. Fold as an omelet, and turn on hot platter. Curried Potatoes. i cupful butter, 1 small onion, 3 cupfuls cold boiled potato cubes, J cupful white stock, J tablespoonful curry powder. Juice 1 lemon. Salt and pepper. Cook the butter with the onion un- til yellow; add the potato and cook until it has absorbed butter, then add the stock, curry powder, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. — Fannie M. Fabmee, CHAPTER XXVIII SALADS It is not so many years ago that salads were considered a luxury only to be found on the tables of the wealthy; to-day a wider knowledge of cookery has taught the housewife who has to set a table with a small in- come that there is no more economi- cal, wholesome dish than a well-made salad. She is beginning to realize, as the French do, that almost anything can be put into a salad, and that even cheap materials with a mayonnaise or a simple French dressing make a palatable as well as a cheap and most sightly dish. There are four essen- tials to a good salad; everything that goes into it must be ice cold, the green vegetable used must be per- fectly clean and crisp, the ingredients of a mayonnaise must be properly proportioned and thoroughly blended and the salad materials should be well mixed just before the dish is served. If these rules are followed, a simple head of lettuce with a plain French dressing is a perfect dish. No nicer way can be found to serve a vegetable salad than to bring the materials to the table crisp, fresh, and green, and dress it at the time it is to be served. For this purpose a large salad bowl, accompanied by a wooden knife and fork, and a small tray containing a cruet of oil and vinegar with pepper and salt, are a necessity. For nearly every salad, lettuce is used as a base. If a whole head is not required at once, it may be kept fresh for several days. As soon as it comes from the market, sprinkle it and put it away tightly covered in the refrigerator. A good receptacle to keep for lettuce is a S-povmd lard pail with a tight lid. When required, clip off with shears the ragged, with- ered ends of the outside leaves, for often the portion nearest the stem is good enough to put into the base of the salad, to eke out quantity even if it is not to be eaten. Separate the rest of the leaves, wash thoroughly, and leave them for fifteen minutes to crisp in ice-cold water. Look over each leaf carefully in search of dirt or any of the insects that are to be found clinging to green stuff. Dry by shaking lightly in a wire basket, see- ing that none of the leaves are bruised or broken. Cold cooked vegetables or any left- over that is to be utilized in a salad, such as string beans, potatoes, or peas, are best if marinated for an hour or two before being used in a French dressing, leaving them in a cold place. If the salad is to be Macedoine, make a blend of various vegetables, marinate each one by it- self, and only put together before sending to the table. Meat that is to go in a salad is much improved by standing for a short time in French dressing before using. Fish should be flaked or cut in neat cubes. There is a strong prejudice among many people against oil. This is owing largely to the fact that some- times one may have tasted a mayon- naise made of strong rancid oil. If you appreciate a salad, it pays to be- come a judge of good oil. Our Cali- fornia oils are now of the finest qual- ity and are sold at a more moderate price than Italian oils. Good oil has a fresh, pleasant odor and a pale- green tinge. For people who really find the taste of oil obnoxious, there 166 SALADS 167 are various recipes for a boiled dress- ing in wliich butter takes the place of oil and makes very good salad. A cook can make a blend of boiled dressing with a tablespoonful oil mayonnaise in which it is almost im- possible to detect any taste of oil. An excellent way is to make a pint of each dressing (if a salad comes to the table once each day, as it should) and keep them in the refrigerator tightly corked. Sometimes a few ta- blespoonfuls cream, whipped stiff, add a, certain deliciousness to a mayon- naise that nothing else can give. It is especially nice where sour apples or celery are blended. Do not use " any old vinegar " in a salad ; the best - is none too fine; a colorless white-wine vinegar is required for any sort of mayonnaise. During the summer, when all sorts of fresh green vegetables are abun- dant, it is a good plan while cooking what is to be used for dinner to dou- ble the amount needed and have something left for the next day's sal- ad. This applies to such vegetables as green peas, string beans, cauli- flower, turnips, carrots, new pota- toes, spinach, asparagus, artichokes, beets, okra, or Brussels sprouts. In winter there need be no dearth of salads, for we have constantly- with us cabbage,' celery, and many of the boiled vegetables, as well as apples. Every salad must be gently han- dled. It cannot be stirred as one would do when cooking a dish nor should it be molded or pattied. To break lettuce leaves makes them not only unsightly, but renders them tough. Pour the dressing over what ingredients are to be served in salad fashion, and toss with two forks till each particle is coated with mayon- naise or a French dressing, still not made mussy or broken. A variety of flavorings is a boon to the housewife who has not a great number of ma- terials within her reach. Day by day even a plain potato or lettuce salad may be made a different dish by the use of some small addition as a flavor, such as chives or tiny pickled onions strewn over it, or make a dif- ference in the seasoning, a mere hint of garlic one day, tarragon vinegar the next, or mint which can bemadded to a salad or two. The cook can make very cheaply for herself a num- ber of flavored vinegars which will serve for a long time. To obtain any flavor, put the herb desired in a bot- tle, cover with white-wine vinegar. a, Mortar andPesUe; t>, Double Boiler ; c,Whiak for Beating Eggs; d. Ice-cream Mold ; e, Po- tato Masher; f. Handled Casserole, Individual Sine. cork, and set tbe bottle in cold water, bringing it to a boil. Tarragon, cher- vil, nasturtium, cucumber, sweet ba- sil, chives, onion, celery, summer sav- ory, garlic, or peppers can be used in this way. Oil Mayonnaise. Yolk 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 cupful olive oil, 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful vinegar. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Rub a bowl with the cut side of an onion, set in a pan of ice water, put in the dry ingredients and stir them together, then mix to a paste with a teaspoonful viijegar. Blend with the yolk of egg, stirring till perfectly smooth. Now, begin to put in the oil, a few drops at a time, beating con- stantly with a Dover egg beater. Al- ternate the oil with a little vinegar and lemon juice, until all ingredients have been used. When finished, the 168 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK mayonnaise ought to be like a tliick jelly. DBESSING OB SATTCES FOB SALADS French Dressing. 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil, J teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. Put the salt and pepper in the salad bowl, or in a small bowl if the sauce is to be served separately. Add a little oil, stir well, then gradu- ally add the remainder of the oil, beating constantly. Last of all stir in the vinegar, which should be di- luted with water if very strong. This dressing may be modified to suit dif- ferent vegetables. Cooked Salad Dressing. 2 eggs, J cupful vinegar, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful oil or butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Put the oil and dry ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Add the eggs, and beat for five minutes. Now add the milk, place the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and cook till the sauce thickens like thin cream. Stir the sauce constantly while cooking, and bottle what you do not require for immediate use. If butter is substi- tuted for oil, add it just before tak- ing the dressing from the fire. Sour-Cream Dressing. 1 cupful sour cream, 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 scant tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful mixed mustard. Beat the cream with an egg beater until thick. Mix the other ingre- dients and gradually add the cream, beating all the while. Catsup Cream Dressing. 1 cupful cream, i cupful tomato catsup, 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix the dry ingredients, oil, salt, and vinegar together, then add the catsup and cream, beating it in grad- ually. Cream Dressing. i tablespoonful salt, i tablespoonful mustard, I tablespoonful sugar, 1 egg slightly beaten, 2J tablespoonfuls melted butter, j cupful sugar, i cupful vinegar. Mix dry ingredients, add vinegar very slowly. Cook over boiling wa- ter, stirring until the mixture thick- ens, strain, and cool. Add before us- ing it an equal quantity of whipped cream. Chicken-Salad Dressing. J cupful rich chicken broth, i cupful vinegar. Yolks S eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper. Few grains cayenne, i cupful thick cream, J cupful melted butter. Reduce stock in which a fowl has been cooked to J cupful. Add vine- gar, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, mustard, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cook over boiling water, stirring con- stantly until mixture thickens. Strain, add creara and melted butter, then cool. — Fannie M. Farmer. Oil Dressing, Boiled. IJ teaspoonfuls mustard, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls oil. SALADS 16S J cupful vinegar diluted with cold water to make J cupful, 2 eggs slightly beaten. Mix dry ingredients, add egg and oil gradually, stirring constantly un- til thoroughly blended; then add di- luted vinegar. Cook over boiling wa- ter until mixture thickens. Tomato Ifayonnalse. 3 solid tomatoes. Yolks 2 hard-boiled eggs. Yolk 1 raw egg, i cupful oil. 2 drops Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 3 drops onion juice. Peel the tomatoes; cut them in halves and press out all the seeds, re- taining the solid portion. Chop and press through a sieve. Mash the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs until very fine; add the yolk of the raw egg; when thoroughly mixed, add the oil a little at a time. When tMck and smooth, add the dry pulp of the to- mato (which has been draining while you are making the dressing). Add the tabasco and onion juice. This is a delicious dressing for cold beef or mutton. Sidney Smith's Salad Dressing. 1 boiled or baked potato. Yolk 2 raw eggs, J teaspoonful salt. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 6 tablespoonfuls oil, 3 teaspoonfuls tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Press the freshly boiled or baked potato through a potato ricer; rub it down with a palette knife until perfectly smooth; drop in the yolk of 1 egg; rub thoroughly; then add the second yolk and rub again. Add the salt and pepper, oil, vinegar, and lemon juice. This dressing is im- proved by a suspicion of garlic or onion, and is excellent with celery or tomatoes. SAIADS Water Cress and Striilg-Bean Salad. Arrange water cress on a flat dish; in the middle put a small heap of cream-cheese balls; around these lay in regular piles cooked and seasoned string beans; cover with French dressing. Cucumber-and-Tomato Salad in Cu- cumber's. Cut lengthwise large cucumbers; scoQp out the centers in good-sized bits; mix with equal parts of peeled tomatoes cut into small bits, and re- fill the cucumber shells. Set on let- tuce, and cover with French dressing. Crab Salad. 1 dozen crabs, 1 cupful mayonnaise, 3 heads lettuce, , 1 green pepper. Put the crabs in warm water, add a tablespoonful salt, stand the kettle over a brisk fire, and boil thirty min- utes. When cold, pick out the meat and put it away until wanted. Wash and dry the lettuce carefully. Stand on the ice until wanted. When ready to serve, mix the crab meat, pepper cut into fine strips, and mayonnaise lightly together. Garnish the dish with lettuce leaves, place the mixture in the center, and serve. Camp Salad. Prepare a mixture of salad vege- tables, or the following; lettuce torn into bits, dandelion nicely bleached, chives, and parsley minced fine, tiny cooked string beans or peas, a small onion or a bit of leek, and a tomato or a bit of celery. Cut 6 or 8 thin slices of bacon into bits and let them cook in a spider until crisp. Add 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar; pour the hot fat with the bacon over the salad mixture, and serve at once. Celery, Apple, and Nut Salad. Clean the celery and lettuce and set it to crisp in a wet napkin on the ice. When ready to serve, cut the 1^0 MRS. CURtlS'S COOKBOOK celery in thin, crescent-shaped pieces; cut the apples in eighths, remove core, skin and slice crosswise in thin pieces, then crumble the pecans or walnuts. Take equal parts celery and apple and i part nuts. Mix with mayonnaise to hold together. Ar- range the mixture on a platter in a mold with lettuce around the edge, cover with mayonnaise and garnish with thin rings or crescents of red- skinned apples and celery tips. Ensalada (Mexican recipe). Slice 2 Spanish onions in thin rings, cut 2 fresh chilis across in rings, re- moving the seeds, and slice 3 ripe, firm tomatoes. Put these in alter- nate layers in a shallow bowl, sprin- kle parsley and bread crumbs over the top, and cover with a dressing made of 3 parts oil to 1 vinegar, seasoned with salt. Serve ice cold. — May E. Sherwood. Summer Salad. 3 stalks celery, 3 seeded green peppers, 3 tomatoes, 2 tablespoon fuls cream, 2 tablespoonfuls mayonnaise. Vinegar, Salt and pepper. Finely slice the celery and peppers, add the tomatoes skinned and cut in quarters. Beat the cream until stiff, add to the mayonnaise, with vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. Mix with the vegetables, and arrange on a bed of escarole. No-name Salad. Make a mayonnaise, a small amount of aspic, and a French dressing. Flake any cold cooked fish, either of one kind or mixed, and lay for an hour in a deep plate sprinkled with oil and vinegar. Line a plain, flat- topped mold with liquid aspic by pouring in a small quantity and tip- ping the mold in a bed of cracked ice till every part is thickly coated; then set on ice. Ornament the bot- tom (which will be the top) with a round of truffles in the center and a dozen shrimps radiating from it, dec- orate the sides with a ring of shrimps alternating with slices of truffle; set these with a little more aspic. Add to the mayonnaise its own bulk of the jelly and put in the mold a layer of the mixture, then a layer of fish just as you lift it from the marinade; strew with capers, add another layer of sauce, then fish, till the mold is full; garnish with cauliflower and water cress seasoned with French dressing. — Anne Wahnee. Salmon Salad. Place on a bed of lettuce the con- tents of i can salmon, freed from oil and bones, and flaked. Pour over the fish boiled salad dressing or mayonnaise, then garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs and lemon. Garcia Salad (Spanish recipe). Cut celery, apples, and fresh to- matoes in thin strips about two inches long; serve on lettuce leaves with French dressing. A slice of truffle on the top adds to the appear- ance and flavor. — Good Housekeep- Savarian Salad. Shred very fine 2 heads lettuce, chop 3 onions fine, and cut 1 cold beet into cubes. Make a layer of the lettuce, toss together the beets and onion and pile on lettuce. Marinate with a French dressing, pour over the top an oil mayonnaise, garnish with sliced olives. Potato-and-Pepper Salad. 3 large cold potatoes, 1 green pepper, 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls ice water, J teaspoonful powdered sugar. Dash pepper, i teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls oil. Cut the potatoes into half-inch dice. Remove the seeds from the pepper and chop fine. Mix the vine- SALADS 171 gar, water, sugar, salt, and pepper. Put a layer of potatoes into the salad dish, then a layer of chopped pepper, and sprinkle over it a tablespoonful oil. Put in another layer of potatoes and peppers, add the other table- spoonful oil, and pour over all the vinegar. Set in the refrigerator for fifteen minutes to marinate. — Makia WiLLETT HOWABD. Chicken Molded with Mayonnaise. Stew a 4-pound chicken in 2 quarts cold water, add 4 slices carrot, 1 onion stuck with 8 cloves, 2 stalks celery, bit bay leaf, J teaspoonful peppercorn, 1 teaspoonful salt. Bring quickly to the boil till tender. Re- move meat from bones and chop (there should be 2J cupfuls. Re- duce stock to 1 cupful, cool, soak IJ teaspoonfuls granulated gelatin in 2 teaspoonfuls cold water and dissolve in stock which has been reheated; add to meat, season with salt, pepper, cel- ery salt, and onion juice. Paclr in buttered J-pound baking-powder tins and dull. Remove from molds, cut in rounds, put on lettuce, and gar- nish with mayonnaise. — Faunie M. Faameb. Tomato-and-Pea Salad. Scoop out skinned tomatoes, fill with cold boiled peas and English walnuts marinated with French dress- ing or mayonnaise. Serve on lettuce. Cucumber Salad. Pare cucumbers and cut crosswise in quarter-inch slices. Let them stand in ice water an hour, then take a sharp knife and pare round and round the slices very thinly, just as an apple would be pared, until there is a long, thin-curled strip. Put these strips on ice to harden, then put each one on a single lettuce leaf and serve on smaU plates. Put a spoonful mayonnaise on each plate and pass prepared horse-radish, vinegar, and oil with it. Brown bread cut in long narrow strips and spread with soft cheese is delicious with this salad. Most soft cheeses must be thinned with cream to make them spread easily. Grand Union Cabbage. Select a small, heavy cabbage and roll back the outside leaves. Cut' out the center, leaving the shell entire. With a sharp knife slice the heart of the cabbage thin and soak in ice wa- ter till crisp. Drain and dry between towels. Add 2 green peppers cut in fine strips and mix with a French dressing. Pour over the cabbage and peppers, then refill the cabbage bowl. — Stella A. DowNiifG. English-Walnut-and-Chicken Salad. For this salad there will be re- quired 24 English walnuts, onion, parsley, chicken liquor, celery, cold cooked chicken, French dressing, and mayonnaise. Take 1 pint chicken and 1 pint celery cut into dice, and par- boil the English walnuts long enough to remove the skins. In boiling the nuts, add a slice onion, a sprig pars- ley, and a Jittle chicken liquor, then drain, remove the brown skins, and mix them with the celery and chicken. Pour over this a cupful French dress- ing and put in the refrigerator for an hour or more. At serving time stir i pint mayonnaise into this. Make shells of crisp lettuce leaves, put a tablespoonful salad into each and a teaspoonful mayonnaise on top, and serve. — Ella E. Woodbridge. OUa Fodrida Salad (a Spanish salad). 2 small apples, 2 medium-sized onions, 6 tomatoes, 2 cold boiled potatoes, 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls oil. Little powdered sugar, Salt and pepper, 2 hard-boiled eggs. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce. Peel the apples and onions, and chop fine. Peel and chop 3 tomatoes, mixing the pulp with the apples and onions. Rub a few bread crumbs on 172 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK a clove garlic, and add them to the salad, also the potatoes, which have been sliced and chopped. Add to the' salad the vinegar, oil, sugar, salt, pepper, and tabasco. Mix thoroughly together, and let stand about an hour. Cut the remainder of the to- matoes in slices, also the eggs, ar- range on top of the salad, then mask with mayonnaise. Egg Salad. Boil the eggs hard, remove the shells, cut in halves lengthwise, and take out the yolks. Mash the yolks, using a silver fork; season with minced chowchow; add a little mus- tard sauce, a dash Mcllhenny's Ta- basco Sauce, melted butter, salt and pepper, and, if desired, minced olives. Return to the whites of eggs, arrange on a bed of lettuce dr cress, dress with French dressing or mayon- naise. If no olives have been used in filling the eggs, a few pimolas scat- tered over the salad add to its deco- ration. 1 tablespoonful cream. Salt, Cayenne, 1 teaspoonful capers, 1 pimento cut in strips. Mash the cheese, add the olives, capers, and pimentoes; moisten with cream, season with salt and cayenne, form into small balls. Marinate with a French dressing. Serve on shredded lettuce, and garnish with pimentoes cut in strips. Cauliflower Salad. Stand a firm white cauliflower in salt water for half an hour, then cook it in boiling water imtil tender but not quite done. Drain, cool, cut into sprigs and arrange neatly in a salad bowl lined with lettuce leaves. Mash the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs and cut the whites into petals; arrange these like daisies over the cauliflower, and pour over a plain French dress- ing. Serve very cold. — ^Mabt Fostee SXISEB. Jardiniere Salad. Cut into fine strips new turnips, carrots, and potatoes, and put them with a few green peas into a sauce- pan to fry lightly in a little butter. Cover with chicken stock and cook till quite tender. Drain and put in a salad dish. Pour over them French dressing. Set aside for an hour; in serving, coat with mayonnaise. Beet Salad in Cups. Boil the largest beets you can find with their skins on; peel them as soon as the beets are done. Cut a slice off the top and scoop out the center to form a cup. Chop celery fine, cut cuciunbers in dice, and use a portion of the chopped beet. Mix and fill the beet cups. Put a spoonful mayon- naise on top. Place the cups on let- tuce leaves, and serve ice cold. Neufchatel Salad. 2 rolls Neufchatel cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls finely chopped olives. Salad in Boats. Select 6 fresh cucumbers all the same size. Pare, cut in halves length- wise, scoop out the centers, and lay in water till wanted. Dry and fill with a mixture of sweetbread and peas, dressed with mayonnaise. Set on a green lettuce leaf or individual plates. — ^Anke Wabnee. Spinach Salad on Ton^e. Pick over, wash, and cook J peck spinach. Drain and chop fine. Sea- son with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and add 1 tablespoonful melted butter. Butter small tin molds slightly and pack solidly with the mixture. Chill, remove from mold, and arrange on thin slices of cold boiled tongue, cut in circular pieces. Garnish base of each with parsley, and serve on top of each sauce tar- tare. — Stella A. Downino. Sweetbread Salad. 1 cupful mayonnaise, 1 pair sweetbreads. SALADS 173 1 cupful celeiy, 1 head lettuce. Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for twenty minutes, then parboil in salted water. Cool and cut in slices, mix with 1 cupful celery cut in small pieces, cover with French dressing, and chill for half an hour. Serve in nests made of the inner leaves of let- tuce, and garnish with mayonnaise. Tomato Telly with Celery Salad. 2 cups tomatoes, 1 slice onion, 1 teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful t)epper, 3 tablespoonfuls granulated gel- atin, J cupful cold water. Cook the tomatoes with the onion, salt, and pepper twenty minutes, then strain; add the gelatin, which has been soaked in cold water, and stir until dissolved; pour into a border mold which has been previously dipped in cold water. Serve with a garnish of white lettuce, and fill the center with celery salad. Potato Salad (German recipe). Cut cold boiled, rather waxy, pota- toes into moderately thick slices, put in a bowl, and add to every pound a tablespoonful vinegar, 2 tablespoon- fuls oil, i teaspoonful salt, i tea- spoonful pepper, and a little minced parsley. Slices of beet root and onions are a great improvement to the salad. Ox-Cheek Salad (German recipe). The bones having been removed, the ox cheek is rubbed thoroughly with salt, and put into a deep dish in salt for a week. It Is then boiled in plenty of water with vegetables and a sprig parsley for five hours. The liquor poured from this makes an ex- cellent soup. The meat is cut into dice and put into a salad bowl, with new potatoes also diced, and the same quantity of beet root and celeriac blanched for five or six minutes in salt water. Mix the vegetables, sea- son with salad dressing and a spoon- ful whole capers. Salad of Shad Roe and Cucumbers. Cover a pair of shad roes, a sliced onion, and a bay leaf with boiling wa- ter to which has been added lemon juice or vinegar, and cook for twen- ty minutes. Drain and dry the roes, cover them with a tablespoonful lem- on juice, 2 tablespoonfuls oil, and a dash pepper and salt. When cold, cut into small cubes (if they are not too tender). Rub a salad bowl with a clove garlic. Cut a thoroughly chilled cucumber in dice. Put a bed of lettuce into the bowl. Arrange the cucumber and lettuce, and over that the roe, well drained from the marin- ade. Garnish with a few delicate tips of lettuce and whole cucumber slices. Serve very cold. Aed-Apple Salad. Select large red apples of uniform size, scoop into cups, and put in cold water in which there is a little lemon juice until time to fill them. Mix the chopped apple with celery, grape- fruit carpels, and mayonnaise dress- ing, and fill the apples. Garnish with Maraschino cherries and broken walnuts, and lay on leaves of lettuce. Serve with wafers spread with cream cheese. Fotato-Salad Balls. Add to left-over mashed potatoes 3 or 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, the same of oil, and 2 teaspoonfuls grated onion. Make into little balls by us- ing butter-ball paddles. These may be served with croquettes or patties. Or they may be placed on a leaf of lettuce as a salad course with a spoonful mayonnaise. Pepper-and-Chicken Salad. 1 cupful tender green pepper, 1 cupful chopped celery, 2 cupfuls chicken, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 cucumber pickle. Salt and pepper. 1^4 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Chop the peppers fine, add the cel- ery and chicken, mix well; add the eggs, cucumber pickle, salt, and pep- per to taste. Set away to chill. When ready to serve, pour over it a rich mayonnaise. Garnish with parsley and olives. Salad Provengal (French recipe). 1 cold carrot, 1 cold turnip, '1 cupful cold chicken meat, 13 mushrooms, i cupful asparagus tips, J cupful Brussels sprouts. Cut the carrot, turnip, and chicken into inch strips. Mix lightly with a fork. Arrange in a nest of lettuce leaves on a flat dish. Moisten with mayonnaise and mask the top with a few spoonfuls. Garnish with cluster of mushrooms, asparagus tips, and Brussels sprouts. Chiffonade Salad (French recipe). 1 head lettuce, i cupful cold beets, J cupful cold carrots, i cupful cold string beans, 1 tablespoonful chives. Make a nest of lettuce and cut the vegetables into neat cubes. Chop the chives fine, scatter them on top, marinate with a French dressing. Beet-and-Cahbage Salad i head raw cabbage, 6 cold beets. Pepper and salt. Shred the cabbage finely, soak for half an hour in iced water, drain thoroughly. Mix with the beets cut into fine cubes. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and minced onion. Serve with French dressing. SIoscow Salad (Russian recipe). 1 cupful cold red beets, 1 cupful cold potatoes, 2 onions, 1 cupful celery, 1 head chicory, 1 teaspoonful capers. 1 teaspoonful pickled nasturtium seeds, 6 olives. Cut the beets and potatoes into fine cubes, slice the onions fine, cut the celery into inch-length pieces, tear the chicory into fine strips, cut the olives into thin slices. Toss light- ly together, add the capers and nas- turtium seeds. Lay in lettuce leaves. Serve with French dressing or may- onnaise. Garnish with rings of hard- boiled eggs and sprinkle over the top a tablespoonful yolk of egg put through a potato ricer. — Helen Sas- MORSKY. Aspic Salad (Russian recipe). 1 cupful green peas, i cupful cold carrots, 1 tablespoonful capers, 1 cupful aspic jeUy. Cut the carrots into tiny cubes. Ornament the bottom of a mold with the peas, carrot, and capers, and fix them with aspic jelly. When hard, fill the mold with jelly. Let it grow solid, then scoop out a small hollow with a hot spoon and fill with mayonnaise. Eed-Vegetable Salad (Russian rec- ipe). 2 cupfuls cold beets, 2 cupfuls cold boiled potatoes, 2 cupfuls raw red cabbage, 1 teaspoonful salt, 6 tablespoonfuls oil. Chop the beets and potatoes fine. Pour over them the red vinegar in which the beets have been pickled. Add the cabbage shredded very fine. Sprinkle with salt and oil. Toss to- gether, and stand in the refrigerator half an hour before serving. Just before serving, add i cupful French dressing flavored with onion juice. Catiliflo-wer-aad-Potato Salad. 2 cupfuls cold potatoes, i cupful cold cauliflower. Cut the potato into fine cubes and mince the cauliflower coarsely. Toss SALADS 17S lightly, and serve with a French dressing. Garnish with slices of cu- cumber. Summer Salad. 6 tomatoes, 3 cucumbers, 1 onion, 3 green peppers, 3 apples. Slice the tomatoes, cucumbers, and apples; chop the onion and peppers fine. Blend with a French dressing. — May Ibwiit. Baked-Bean Salad. 3 cupfuls cold baked beans, 3 ripe tomatoes, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls oil, J teaspoonful mustard. Dash Mcllhenny's Tabasco Sauce, i teaspoonful onion juice. Make a dressing from the vinegar, oil, and seasonings. Heap the beans on lettuce, garnish with sliced toma- toes and over all pour the dressing. Tomato Salad (German recipe). Peel medium-sized tomatoes, re- move a thin slice from the top of each, take out the seeds and some of the pulp, sprinkle inside with salt, in- vert, and let stand thirty minutes. Shred i head small cabbage. Let stand two hours in 1 quart cold wa- ter to which 3 tablespoonfuls salt have been added. Cook slowly for -thirty minutes i cupful each cold water and vinegar, a bit bay leaf, i teaspoonful peppercorns, J teaspoon- ful mustard seed, and 6 cloves. Strain, and pour over the cabbage drained from salt water. Let stand for two hours, again drain, and refill the tomatoes. Tomato-Pineapple Salad. Peel medium-sized tomatoes, re- move a thin slice from the top of each, take out the seeds and some of the pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt, invert, and let stand thirty minutes. Fill the tomatoes with fresh pineap- ple cut in small cubes and English walnut meats, using § pineapple and J nut meats, mixed with mayonnaise. Garnish with mayonnaise halves of nut meats and slices cut from the tops of tomatoes. Serve on a bed of let- tuce leaves. Shaddock Salad. 2 green peppers, 1 head romaine. Pulp 1 large grape fruit, 3 tomatoes. Cook the peppers in boiling water; cool, and shred. Shred the romaine; remove the pulp from the grape fruit; peel the tomatoes and cut in quarters lengthwise. Arrange in a salad bowl, and pour over French dressing. CHAPTER XXIX PUDDINGS MADE FROM STALE BREAD AND CAKE The variety of puddings into which stale bread enters is endless. It be- gins with the old-fashioned, economi- cal pandowdy and ends with the queen of puddings, rich in jam and lovely in merinque. For puddings, use only stale bread or crumbs, re- jecting crusts. Do not add the oven- dried crumbs, or you will have a pud- ding as tough as a door mat. Left- overs of fruit, fresh berries, peaches, plums, gooseberries, apples, prunes, apricots, almost anything can enrich ji bread puduing. A cupful canned or stewed fruit or a few spoonfuls jam or marmalade give a morsel of delicious flavoring. The good cook uses common sense and the material she has at hand. If the recipe calls for red raspberries and she has noth- ing but dried apples, she can season them with spices, and the dessert will be a success. The base of any bread pudding light as a souffli and large enough for a family of 4 consists of 1 cupful stale-bread crumbs, 2 cup- fuls milk, and 1 egg. This may be enriched by almonds, chocolate, nut meats, raisins, currants, and peel or fruit of any description. Stale cake, especially sponge cake or lady's fingers, may be converted into delicious puddings. Where the pudding is to be steamed or baked, cut the cake In fingers or break it into crumbs. If the pudding is to be soaked with wine, have a cus- tard, fruit juice, or cream poured over it, after cutting it in slices. Re- ject icing; it generally makes a pud- ding sweeter than is desirable. A good plain pudding is made by put- ting slices of stale cake in a steamer and, when moist, serving with a spoonful strawberry or marmalade 176 sauce. It may be covered when cold with hot stewed berries and served with cream. Stale sponge cake serves as a foundation for charlotte russe and cabinet pudding, or, if steamed, may be covered with straw- berries and whipped cream, when it makes an excellent imitation of straw- berry shortcake. Bread-Plum Fndding. 1 cupful suet, 1 cupful raisins, 1 cupful currants, J cupful citron and candied orange peel, 1 cupful sugar, 3 cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, 4 eggs, J cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, J teaspoonful each allspice, cloves, and nutmeg. Grated rind 1 lemon. Chop the suet fljie. Seed tlie rai- sins. Slice the citron and orange peel, mix with the currants, sugar, and bread crumbs, moisten with eggs well beaten, and milk, then add the seasonings. Pour into a buttered mold. Steam four hours, and serve with hard sauce. Orange Pudding. IJ cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, 1 cupful cold water, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful orange juice. Juice J lemon, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, J teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, i teaspoonful orange extract. STALE BREAD AND CAKE PUDDINGS 177 Soak the crumbs in water twenty minutes, tlien add tlie sugar, orange, and lemon juice, the yolks of eggs slightly beaten, the butter and salt. Beat till thoroughly mixed, pour in a buttered dish, and bake in a moder- ate oven till the pudding is firm. Al- low it to cool slightly and cover with a, Saratoga Chip Kettle; 6, Tea Kettle Steamer. a meringue made from the whites of the eggs, sugar, and orange flavor- ing. Brown delicately, and serve hot or cold. Walnut Pudding. Meats from 12 English walnuts, 1 cupful stale brown-bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls milk, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Scald the milk in a double boiler, and add to it the crumbs and chopped walnut meats. Allow the mixture to simmer gently five minutes, then take from the firC. When cool, stir in the yolks of eggs beaten with the sugar. Add vanilla and the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pour in a buttered mold, and bake thirty minutes. Serve hot with vanilla sauce or hard sauce. — Maeoahet Bailey. lemon-lleringue Pudding. 2 cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls cold water, 1 lemon. S cupful sugar, 3 eggs, J cupful chopped suet, 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. Soak the crumbs in water thirty minutes, then add juice and grated rind of the lemon. Beat the yolks of eggs till thick and lemon-colored, add sugar and suet, and mix thoroughly. Add the other ingredients. Bake an hour. Beat the whites of eggs to a dry froth and make a meringue with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. Heap lightly on top of the pudding, dust with powdered sugar, and brown delicately. Serve with a liquid sauce. Prune-and-Bread Pudding. 2 cupfuls prunes, 8 slices buttered bread, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls milk. Nutmeg. Soak the prunes over night, and in the morning remove the stones. Cover the bottom of a buttered baking dish with a layer of buttered bread cut in v/ide fingers. Cover with prunes and a dust of nutmeg and sugar. Put in another layer of buttered bread, then prunes with sugar and nutmeg. Let the crust be bread with the buttered side up. Beat the eggs well, add the milk, and pour over the pudding. Bake an hour, covering the pudding with a plate for half an hour, then leaving it uncovered to crust. Serve with hard sauce or lemon sauce. Apple-Custard Pudding. 2 cupfuls pared and quartered apples, 1 cupful stale-bread crumbs, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 tablespoon ful flour, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 egg, ^ lemon, J cupful water. Put the apples with waiter in a granite saucepan and cook till the fruit mashes easily. Remove from the fire, add sugar, butter, and the grated 178 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK rind and juice of a lemon. Mix the flour with bread crumbs and stir into the mixture. Beat the egg till light, and add it last. Turn into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven three quarters of an hour. Serve hot with hard sauce. 7ig Pudding. 1 cupful chopped figs, J cupful finely chopped suet, 1 cupful chopped apple, i cupful brown sugar, i cupful stale-bread crumbs, i cupful milk, 2 eggs, I cupful flour. To the suet add the sugar, apple, and figs. Pour the milk over the bread crumbs, and add the yolKs of eggs well beaten. Combine the mix- tures, add the flour and the whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Turn into a greased pudding mold and steam in a covered steamer four hours. Orange-Marmalade Pudding. 1 cupful stale-bread crumbs, 1 cupful orange marmalade, i cupful chopped suet, 1 teaspoon ful Calumet baking powder, 1 cupful flour, i cupful sugar, IJ cupfuls milk. Toss the dry ingredients together. Add the suet and marmalade, then stir in the milk and egg. Beat five minutes. Put into a buttered mold, cover tightly, and steam two hours. Scalloped Apples. 6 large tart apples, 3 cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls molasses, i cupful hot water. Pare the apples and cut in gener- ous slices. Into a buttered baking dish put a layer of bread crumbs, then a layer of sliced apples, and a top layer of crumbs. Add the hot water to the molasses and pour it over the pudding. Bake twenty min- utes. Bread Pudding with Raspberry Sauce. 2 cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls milk, 3 eggs. Salt. Soak the crumbs half an hour in milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs till thick and lemon-colored and add to the soaked crumbs with a pinch salt. Cut in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and bake, setting in a pan of hot water in a moderate oven, forty minutes. Put no sugar in this pudding; the sauce supplies all the necessary sweetness. Raspberry Sauce. 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, IJ tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful red raspberries. Juice 1 lemon. Cream the sugar and butter to- gether. Mash the fruit, and beat in with the sugar and butter. Add the lemon juice, and beat till very light and frothy. Apple Dowdy. i loaf stale brown bread, 8 large tart apples, J teaspoonful cinnamon, J cupful dark-brown sugar, J cupful cold water, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Cut the bread in thin slices and pare off the crusts. Butter each slice. Lay them into a buttered bak- ing dish till it is neatly lined. Inside put the apples, pared and sliced, sug- ar, cinnamon, dust of salt, and pour water over all. Cover the top with bread, buttered side up. Bake slowly an hour. Serve hot with liquid or hard sauce. Chocolate Souffle. 1 cupful stale-bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls scalded milk, 1 square Runkel's Chocolate, STALE BREAD AND CAKE PUDDINGS 179 J cupful sugar, 1 egg. Dash salt, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Pour the milk over the crumhs and allow them to swell half an hour. Melt the chocolate in a bowl in the mouth of a boiling kettle, add to the sugar, and scrape it into the soaked bread, beating well. Add the salt, vanilla, and egg slightly beaten. Turn into a buttered dish and bake three quarters of an hour. Serve hot. Jam Pudding. Stale bread, 2 cupfuls milk, i cupful sugar. Salt, 1 egg- Cut stale bread in slices, remove crusts, spread with butter or cream, and quince or plum jeUy; put to- gether like sandwiches. Place in a baking dish in layers. Pour over a custard of milk, egg, sugar, and a little salt. Bake, covered, half an hour; then uncover, and brown. Serve warm or cold, with cream. Caramel Pudding. 2 cupfuls bread crumbs, IJ cupfuls milk, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful caramel. Mix together, and add whites of eggs beaten with tablespoonful sugar just before pouring into mold. Steam three hours in a buttered mold. Serve with apple jelly and caramel sauce. Apricot Pudding. 1 cupful stale-bread crumbs, 1 cupful fresh or preserved apri- cots cut in dice, i cupful sugar, i cupful butter, i cupful water, J cupful apricot sirup. Butter a baking dish; cover the bottom with layer of crumbs, over it place the fruit; cover with crumbs, dot with bits of butter, then apri- cots, and so on, until the dish is full. The upper layer should be of crumbs, covered thickly with bits of butter. Pour over a portion of the liquid, or add it in mixing the pudding; place in a pan of water, and bake half an hour; take from the water, and finish baking fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve with cream or apricot sauce. Brown-Bread Pudding. 1 cupful brown-bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls milk, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls maple sugar. Soak the crumbs in i cupful milk fifteen minutes; make a custard of the remainder of the milk, eggs, and sugar; pour it hot over the crumbs; beat the whites of 3 eggs, with 1 ta- blespoonful sugar and 1 or 2 table- spoonfuls thick cream; stir lightly into the custard. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven; eat with cream. Cocoanut Pudding. 2 cupfuls scalded milk, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, 1 tablespoonful sugar, J cupful grated cocoanut, 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. Cut stale bread in slices, spread with butter and honey, and cover with grated cocoanut. Line a baking dish with the sandwiches. Pour over a custard made with milk, eggs, corn- starch, sugar, grated cocoanut, and a little salt. Bake in a moderate pven half or three quarters of an hour. Cover with a meringue of the whites of 3 eggs and powdered sugar. Brown delicately. Serve with cream. Chocolate Whips. 3 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 tablespoonful Runkel's Choco- late grated. 180 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 tablespoonful hot water, 2 cupfuls milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs and sug- ar till light. Dissolve sugar and chocolate in hot water; when dis- solved, add slowly milk heated to boiling; pour this mixture over the beaten eggs and sugar, and cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly until it thickens. When cool, flavor with Mcllhenny's Vanilla ahd place on ice. When ready to serve, half fill small pimch glasses with the custard and whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, over it. Sponge Cake a la Chantilly. 1 stale sponge cake, 3 cupfuls fresh or canned fruit, 1 cupful cream, 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. From the top of a stale sponge cake cut a thin slice. Remove the in- side, leaving a wall one and a half inches thick. Into this put any fresh fruit sprinkled with sugar, or canned fruit from which the bulk of the juice has been drained. Beat the cream till thick. Add the sugar and vanil- la, and pour over the cake just be- fore serving. Save the inside of the loaf; it may be utilized in various ways. Cocoanut Sponge Pudding. 2 cupfuls scalded milk, IJ cupfuls sponge-cake crumbs, 1 cupful grated cocoanut, 1 cupful sugar. Grating nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful rose water, 3 eggs. Pour the hot milk over the sponge- cake crumbs, sugar, beaten yolks of eggs, cocoanut. Allow it to stand half an hour. Add the nutmeg, rose wa- ter, and whites of eggs beaten to a dry froth. Bake three quarters of an hour in a buttered mold. Serve with wine sauce. — Maugabet Bailey. Uarmalade Sponge Cake. 1 stale sponge cake, 4 dry lady's fingers, 1 cupful powdered sugar, J cupful butter, I cupful orange marmalade. Cut a stale sponge cake in two, in layer style, and set it in a steamer ten minutes. Make a hard sauce by creaming the butter gradually, add- ing the sugar, and beating it till smooth and white. Add the marma- lade at the last. Dry the lady's fin- gers in a moderate oven till light brown, then roll into crumbs with a rolling-pin. Spread the hard sauce on a layer of the cake, cover with the other half of the cake, spread with tlie remainder of the sauce, and scatter thickly with sifted lady's finger crumbs. Serve immediately. Almost any kind of jam can be used instead of orange marmalade. If it is a very rich, sweet preserve, use J cupful less sugar. The sauce is also excellent if made with J cupful orange juice beaten into the hard sauce, 1 table- spoonful lemon juice, and J teaspoon- ful orange extract. Cream in a Crust. Make a sponge cake, and bake in a solid loaf, either round or oblong. When cool, take out the center, leav- ing the crust an inch thick on the sides and bottom. Make an icing of 3 ounces chocolate, a cupful sugar, i cupful water, and Mcllhenny's Va- nilla to flavor. Melt the chocolate and add to it slowly the sugar and water boiled to a sirup which will spin a thread. Flavor, p.nd brush with it at once the entire cake, inside and out, until it is well coated. Just before serving, fill with rich, sweet cream (about a cupful), whipped, sweetened, and flavored. Pineapple Pudding. Slices of stale cake, 1 pineapple, J cupful sugar, 1 cupful cold water. STALE BREAD AND CAKE PUDDINGS 181 Line a buttered pudding dish with slices of stale cake. Pare and slice the pineapple thinly. Cover each layer of cake with the fruit, sprink- ling it with sugar; cover with cake, then pineapple. Make the top layer cake, and over all pour the water. Cover, and bake slowly two hours. Eat hot with hard sauce. Cabinet Pudding:. 3 cupfuls cake, 1 cupful milk, 2 eggs. Salt, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, } cupful raisins, nut meats, and citron. Butter a quart melon mold and scatter over it a few currants, raisins, nut meats, or tiny bits of citron. Fill the mold almost to the top with bro- ken bits of cake, and sprinkle a little fruit through it if the pieces are of plain cake. Beat 2 eggs, stir in 2 ta- blespoonfuls sugar, a dash salt, and the milk. Pour this custard over the cake in the mold, turning in a little at a time to allow the cake to absorb the liquid, until all the custard is used. Put on cover and place the mold in a kettle of boiling water, not allowing the water to come quite to the top of the mold. Place a lid on the kettle and let it boil an hour. Serve the pudding hot, with wine or fruit sauce. Crumb Pudding. 3 eggs, i cupful sugar, i cupful soft bread crumbs, i cupful farina, i cupful broken nut meats, i cupful butter, J cupful powdered sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls milk, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Beat the yolks of eggs until light and lemon-colored. Gradually add sugar, bread crumbs, and farina. Mix perfectly, fold in the whites of eggs beaten stiff, and nut meats. Pour into 2 layer-cake pans which have been buttered and floured. Bake half an hour in a slow oven. When slight- ly cooled, put the layers together with a creamy sauce made as follows: Cream J cupful butter, add gradually i cupful powdered sugar and 2 ta- blespoonfuls milk, add drop by drop. Flavor with 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenpy's Vanilla. Serve hot. — Katherikk A. French. Peach Crumb Pudding. 1 pint stale-b-"ad crumbs, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 2 eggs, J cupful sugar. On a pint of stale-bread crumbs pour boiling water and stir in melted butter. After standing till thor- oughly soaked, add eggs and sugar. On the bottom of a buttered dish put a thin layer of this batter, over it a layer of sliced peaches, and so on, dredging each layer of peaches with sugar, till the dish is full, having batter at the top. About an hour in a moderate oven will be required for the baking. Serve with sweet- ened cream. Suet Cherry Roly-Poly. S ounces suet, i pound flour, J teaspoonful salt. Remove the fiber and skin from suet, chop fine, add flour and salt, mix well. Add sufficient cold water to make it stick, and roll out on a well-floured board. Cover with pitted cherries, dust with sugar, and roll quickly; tie in a well-floured cloth, leaving room for it to swell. Place in a kettle of boiling water and keep it boiling steadily two hours, or it may be steamed two hours and a half. Serve hot with any sweet sauce, or sweetened cream. Marmalade Pudding. i pound bread crumbs, i pound brown sugar, i pound suet, 4 eggs, 1 small jar orange marmalade. 182 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Mix together, put in a mold with tight-fitting cover, and boil three hours. Huckleberry Pudding. Line pudding dish with buttered slices of bread. Fill with huckle- berries, sprinkle over sugar and the grated rind and juice of a lemon. Place on top of buttered bread. Set in a pan of water in a hot oven ; cover the pudding with a plate, and bake one and a half hours. When the pud- ding is done, cover with a meringue made of the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth and 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. Return to the oven to brown lightly, and serve hot. Plain Plum Pudding. 4 cupfuls flour, 1 pound currants, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 pound raisins, J pound candied lemon peel chopped fine, 1 pound suet chopped fine, 1 teaspoonf ul Calumet baking powder. Nutmeg and cinnamon. Sift the flour, baking powder, spices, and salt; add other ingre- dients. When well mixed, add suffi- cient cold water or milk to make a batter j ust thick enough to spoon into the mold. Leave room for it to rise. Cover closely, and boil six hours. Fluff Pudding. 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 2 cupfuls cream, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 2 cupfuls milk, 3 eggs, § cupful sugar. Soak the gelatin in cold water half an hour. Scald the milk, and dissolve the gelatin in it. Beat the yolks and sugar together, stir into the boiling milk, and cook two minutes. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn into a bowl to cool. Stand the bowl in a pan of cracked ice, and stir constantly until it thickens; then add the whipped cream; turn into a mold and set away to harden. Serve with whipped cream. Snow Pudding. 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 1 cupful sugar, 2 eggs, Juice 2 lemons, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 1 cupful boiling water. Let the gelatin soak half an hour in cold water, pour over it boiling water, add sugar, and stir till dis- solved; add the lemon juice, and strain; set in ice water. When cold, whip with an egg beater until white as snow; beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them in. Dip a mold in cold water, pour the pudding into it, and set in a cold place till it hardens. Sauce for Pudding. Scald the milk; beat the yolks of eggs and a J cupful sugar together, stir into the boiling milk. Cook two minutes, add vanilla, and pour out to cool. Dish the pudding with the sauce poured about it. Bananas and Tapioca. J cupful minute tapioca, 1 pint boiling water, § cupful sugar, J teaspoonful salt. Juice 2 lemons. Whites 2 eggs, 5 bananas. Whipped cream. Mix the sugar and tapioca, stir into the boiling water and salt; cook, stir- ring occasionally, until the tapioca is transparent, then add the lemon juice and fold in the whites of eggs. When the eggs are evenly distributed throughout the mixture, fold in the pulp of the bananas cut in thin slices. Serve with cream, whipped or plain. STALE BREAD AND CAKE PUDDINGS 183 Orange Tapioca Pluff. 4 cupful minute tapioca, 1 cupful sugar, 1 pint water, 3 oranges, 2 eggs. Boil tapioca, sugar, and water in a double boiler tiU clear, stirring of- ten. Add the orange juice about three minutes before removing from the stove. When cool and beginning to "jell," stir into it the well-beaten whites of eggs. Serve with a soft custard. Raspberry Jelly. 3 tablespoonfuls minute tapioca, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls hot water. Juice 1 lemon, 1 cupful raspberry juice. Cook tapioca until clear with sugar in boiling water, add the lemon juice and raspberry juice. When begin- ning to "jell," beat smooth with a spoon. Danish Fndding. 3 cupfuls hot water, J cupful minute tapioca, 1 teaspoonful salt, i cupful sugar, 1 tumbler currant jelly. Cook the tapioca and water fifteen minutes. Add sugar, salt, and cur- rant jelly. Stir until jelly is dis- solved. Pour into glass dish and keep on ice. Serve very cold with sugar and cream. In summer 1 pint ripe strawberries used in place of jelly makes a pleasing change. Grape Blancmange. 1 cupful grape juice, 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. Whites 3 eggs, i cupful sugar. Yolks 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 1 pint milk. Put the grape juice and 1 cupful water in a double boiler; when boil- ing, stir in the cornstarch previously dissolved in cold water; cook five minutes, stirring till smooth and thick; remove from fire, fold in the stiffly beaten whites and sugar. Make a custard of the yolks of eggs, sugar to sweeten, a teaspoonful vanilla and milk, and serve with the grape blanc- mange. Turn it from the mold into a glass dish, and pour the custard around it. Winter Truit Pudding. 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 6 oranges, 1 can pineapple, 3 bananas. Sugar to taste. Slice the bananas, cut the pine- apple in small pieces, and spoon the pulp from the oranges. Drain off the juice; in part of this soak the gelatin five minutes, stand in hot water until dissolved, add to the rest of the juice, and pour over the fruit arranged in a salad bowl. Set on ice until jellied, then sprinkle with grated cocoanut. Coffee Jelly. 3 tablespoonfuls gelatin, i cupful cold water, 3 cupfuls coffee, f cupful sugar. Soak the gelatin in cold v/ater five minutes and dissolve in the hot cof- fee; add the sugar, stir until dis- solved, and turn into a mold. Serve with whipped cream. Cocoanut Cream Tapioca. 1 quart hot milk, 2 tablespoonfuls minute tapioca, 3 tablespoonfuls cocoanut, 1 cupful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. Yolks 3 eggs. Boil fifteen minutes in a double boiler, stirring frequently, the milk, tapioca, cocoanut, and sugar. Add 184 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK the beaten yolks of eggs and remove at once from the stove. Cover with whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth with powdered sugar, and brown in a quick oven. Indian Tapioca Pudding. 2 tahlespoonfuls minute tapioca, 1 quart milk, 3 tahlespoonfuls cornmeal, i cupful molasses, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. Nutmeg to taste, 1 egg. 1 cupful cold milk. Cook tapioca in milk ten minutes. While boiling, stir in cornmeal wet with a little milk, molasses, butter, bait, cinnamon, nutmeg, and egg. Pour in a dish, add cold milk, and bake two hours. Coffee Tapioca. 3 cupfuls coffee infusion, J cupful minute tapioca, J cupful sugar. Salt, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Cook tapioca in coffee fifteen min- utes with sugar and salt. Flavor with vanilla, and serve cold with cream and sugar. Apple Tapioca. 6 tart apples, 1 cupful sugar. Salt, i cupful minute tapioca, 1 quart water. Pare and quarter apples. Place in dish and pour over sugar and salt. Cook tapioca in double boiler in a quart water with pinch salt fifteen minutes. Pour this over the apples. Cover the dish, and bake half an hour. Serve with cream and sugar. Bothe Griitze (German recipe). i cupful minute tapioca, J cupful sugar, J teaspoonful salt, IJ cupfuls hot water, 3 cupfuls rhubarb. Put tapioca in double boiler with sugar, salt, and hot water. Add rhu- barb that has been washed and cut in small pieces, without peeling. Cook till the rhubarb is tender. Mash with a fork, and pour, while hot, into a cold, wet earthen or granite mold. Keep in a cold place a few, hours, turn out, and serve with cream. This may be molded in individual cups. Hot Chocolate Pudding. 3 cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, 3 cupfuls milk scalded, IJ ounces chocolate, 4 cupful sugar, 1 egg. Dash salt, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can YaniUa. Pour the hot milk, in which the chocolate has been melted, over the bread crumbs, add to it sugar and salt. Beat the yolk of egg till thick and lemon-colored, stir it in, add the vanilla, last of all the white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Pour the mixture into buttered custard cups, set in a pan of boiling water, then in a moderate oven bake about half an hour. Serve hot with hard sauce. Chocolate Tapioca. J cupful minute tapioca, i cupful sugar, i teaspoonful salt, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 ounce chocolate, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Soak the tapioca over night, scald the milk in a double boiler, add the tapioca, sugar, and melted chocolate. Cook half an hour, stirring frequent- ly. When taken from the fire, add the vanilla, and pour into a mold. Serve the pudding ice cold, with whipped cream or chilled custard. STALE BREAD AND CAKE PUDDINGS 185 Baked Chocolate Custard. 3 cupfuls milk, 1 ounce chocolate, 2 eggs, i cupful sugar. Dash salt, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, Melt the chocolate in a double boil- er. Pour the milk in and let it come to the scalding point. Pour over the slightly beaten eggs and the sugar and salt, strain into a buttered mold or custard cups; set them in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until a knife can be put into the middle of the custard and come out clean. Serve ice cold. Chocolate Spanish Cream. 1 tablespoonful granulated gela- tin, 3 cupfuls milk. Whites 3 eggs. Yolks 3 eggs, i cupful sugar. Dash salt, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, li squares chocolate. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add the sugar, and pour over it the scalded milk; beat till perfectly blended, then pour over the beaten egg yolks and back into the boiler, cooking till it thickens like a cus- tard. Remove from the stove, add the salt, vanilla, and whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into in- dividual molds which have been dipped in cold water, and chill. Serve with a garnish of whipped cream. Chocolate Charlotte. 1 tablespoonful granulated gela- tin, i cupful cold water, J cupful scalded cream, IJ squares chocolate, 3 tablespoonfuls hot water, § cupful sugar. Whip 3 cupfuls cream. 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 6 lady's fingers. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add half the sugar, dilute with, boiling water, and put in the soaked gelatin. Stir till dissolved, add the scalded cream, and pour into a bowl; set in a pan of ice water and stir till it begins to thicken. Fold in the whip from the cream. Separate the lady's fingers and place them around the inside of a mold, crust side out. Turn in the chocolate mixture, and set it on ice. When very cold, turn out on a platter and garnish with whipped cream. Chocolate Blancmange. 2 cupfuls scalded milk, 5 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, J cupful sugar. Dash salt, J cupful cold milk, IJ squares chocolate, 3 tablespoonfuls hot water, > Whites 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Mix the cornstarch, sugar, and salt in the cold milk, pour it into the scalded milk in a double boiler. Cook ten minutes, stirring constantly till it thickens, add the chocolate melted in the hot water, beat until smooth, add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff and vanilla, pour into a mold, and chill. Serve with whipped cream. Chocolate Pudding. 6 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, J pound Runkel's sweet chocolate grated, 1 cupful almonds chopped fine without blanching, 1 cupful sifted bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. Beat until light and thick the yolks of eggs, sugar, vanilla, chocolate, al- 186 MRS. CUilTIS'S COOKBOOK monds, bread crumbs, whites of eggs, and baking powder. Butter a pud- ding form, turn into it the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven thirty to forty minutes. Serve with mer- ingue sauce. To make meringue sauce, boil together J cupful sugar and i cupful water until the mixture forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water, then turn it slowly over the whites of 2 eggs. Beat well, and a, Covered Baking Dish ; b, Small Covered Cas- serole ; c, Shallow Baking Dish ; d. Clay Cas- serole ; e. Individual Ramequin. flavor with vanilla. Turn out the pudding, and pile the sauce around its base, completely encircling it, and decorate, if desired, with chocolate candies. Charlotte Busse. 1 quart thin cream, I cupful powdered sugar, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 12 lady's fingers, 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin. Soak the gelatin in cold water half an hour. Beat the cream, and drain off the whip on a sieve. Line a mold with lady's fingers. Pour the cream in a basin and set it in a pan of ice water. Add to the soaked gelatin enough boiling water to dissolve it. Add the sugar carefully to the cream, then the vanilla, and last strain in the gelatin. Commence to stir imme- diately; stir from the sides and bot- tom of the basin until it begins to thicken, then pour into molds, and set on ice to harden. Poor Uan's Fudding:. 2 cupfuls milk, 4 tablespoonfuls rice, i cupful brown sugar. Dash salt, i teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful butter. Wash the rice, add milk, sugar, butter, and seasoning. Bake several hours, stirring frequently till it is moist and brown. Cottage Pudding. J cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 egg, 2 J cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Cream the butter, add sugar grad- ually, and the egg well beaten; mix and sift flour, baking powder, and salt; add alternately with milk to first mixture; turn into gem pans, bake thirty minutes. Serve with va- nilla sauce. Steamed Apple Pudding. 2 cupfuls flour, 4 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, i teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, I cupful milk, 4 apples cut in eighths. Mix and sift the ingredients; rub in the butter, add milk gradually, toss on a floured board, pat and roll out, place apples on middle of dough, and sprinkle with sugar mixed with a dash of nutmeg and salt. Wrap the dough around the apples and lift into buttered molds. Cover and steam an hour and a, half, and serve with vanilla sauce. Snowballs. "i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, i Cupful milk, 2 J cupfiJs flour, 3J teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Whites 3 eggs. STALE BREAD AND CAKE PUDDINGS 187 Cream the butter, add sugar grad- ually, then the milk and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder; last the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Steam thirty-five minutes in buttered cups; serve with strawberry hard sauce. English Plum Pudding. IJ cupfuls flour, IJ cupfuls stale-bread crumbs, I pound raisins, I poimd currants, f pound suet, li cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful molasses. 3 ounces candied orange peel, 1 teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful mace, 6 eggs, 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix all the dry ingredients, add the eggs well beaten, and stir ten minutes. Turn into a floured pud- ding cloth or mold. If the cloth is used, tie securely, leaving some space to allow the pudding to swell, and plunge into a kettle of boiling water. Cook five hours. Keep the pudding immersed in water during the entire cooking. Serve with hard sauce. CHAPTER XXX PUDDING SAUCES {Hot Sauces) Chocolate Sance. 1 cupful water, J cupful sugar, 1 stick cinnamon, 1 square Runkel's Chocolate, J cupful milk, IJ tablespoonfuls cornstarch. Dash salt, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Cook together the water, sugar, and cinnamon, strain, add the chocolate Vhich has been dissolved in hot milk, thicken with cornstarch, wet in a lit- tle water. Add the salt and beat till creamy. After taking off the fire, add the vanilla and serve hot. This is a very nice sauce to use with a. hot plain pudding of any kind or with vanilla ice cream frozen hard. I'oamy Sauce. J cupful powdered sugar, 3 whites eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 1 cupful boiling water. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, add the powdered sugar, flav- oring, and water, stir carefully, and serve very hot. Orange Sauce. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Yolks 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, J cupful thick cream, J cupful orange juice. Grated rind 1 orange. Cream the butter and whip the sug- ar into it, put in a double boiler, add the yolks of eggs well beaten with the cream, stir constantly till it is like a thick custard, then take from the fire, and blend in orange juice and rind. Ituit Sauce. J cupful sugar, 1 cupful boiling water, 1 tablespoonful arrowroot, J can any preserved fruit. Boil sugar and water together, add the fruit, which may be anything you happen to have — strawberries, peaches, apricots, raspberries (red), or quinces will make a nice sauce. Cook in the sirup a few minutes, then press the pulp through a potato ricer, put back on the fire in a saucepan; when boiling, thicken with the arrow- root dissolved in cold water, beat till thick and creamy. This sauce may be served hot with any hot pudding, or when thoroughly chilled it is nice with cold rice or vanilla ice cream. Hard Sauce. J cupful butter, 1 cupful powdered sugar. Little nutmeg. Beat butter well, stir In slowly sug- ar, and beat to a cream. Pile on a plate, and grate over a little nutmeg. Keep cool. Strawberry Sauce. 1 tablespoonful butter, IJ cupfuls powdered sugar. White 1 egg, 1 pint mashed strawberries. 188 PUDDING SAUCES 189 Beat butter to a cream. Add grad- ually sugar and the whites of eggs. Beat till very light, and just before serving add strawberries. Soft Custard. '' S cupfuls scalded milk, Yolks 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, J teaspoonful salt. Cook over hot fire till it will mask the spoon, strain, cool, and flavor. Some puddings are improved by hav- ing the sugar browned as for cara- mel sauce. maple Sauce. i pound maple sugar, 4 cupful water. Whites 3 eggs, i cupful thick cream, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Boil water and sugar till it will spin. Whisk boiling hot into the beaten whites of eggs, add cream and lemon juice. Creme d'Amande Sauce (French rec- ipe). 3 cupfuls sweet cream, 2 ounces sweet almond, 2 drops extract bitter almond, i cupful powdered sugar, 1 teaspoonful rose water. Chop almonds which have been blanched and browned in the oven, pound them very fine. Add sugar, almonds, and rose water to the cream. Beat until the sauce is very light. Aigre Siouz (French recipe). 3 cupfuls sour cream. Juice and grated rind 1 lemon. Sugar to taste. Beat hard and long until the sauce is very light. Currant-Jelly Sauce. i cupful currant jelly. Whites 3 eggs, i cupful powdered sugar, i cupful thick cream. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, add sugar by degrees, and beat well. Soften the jelly by heating in a bowl set in hot water. When soft enough to drop from a spoon, beat it into the eggs and sugar. Add the cream. Stir in 3 tablespoonfuls jelly cut in dice, and serve. Lemon Sauce, 1 cupful sugar, J cupful water. Rind and juice 3 lemons. Yolks 3 eggs. Boil the water, sugar, juice, and rind of lemons all together ten min- utes. Beat the yolks of eggs. Strain the sirup, stir the eggs into it, set the saucepan in boiling water, and beat rapidly until thick and smooth; re- move from the water, and beat five minutes. Orange Sauce. 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful water, ' i teaspoonful cornstarch, I cupful orange juice. Juice 1 lemon, 1 cupful orange pulp. Make a sirup of sugar and water, and thicken with cornstarch. Take from the fire, cool, add orange juice, juice of lemon, and orange pulp. Serve ice cold. Vanilla Sauce, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful water, 1 apple. Pinch cinnamon, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, i teaspoonful arrowroot, 1 cupful whipped cream. Mix the sugar and water, and put over the fire. Peel and core the ap- ple, slice, cut into dice, and put at once in the hot sirup. Simmer gen- tly until soft. Take out, thicken the sirup with arrowroot, cook five min- utes, strain, add whipped cream. 190 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK {Cold Sauces) Egg Sauce. 3 eggs. 1 cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Separate the eggs and beat the yolks till thick and lemon-colored, adding the sugar gradually. Whip the eggs to a stiff froth, blend with the yolks, flavor with the vanilla, and serve ice cold. Whipped-Cream Sauce. 1 cupful double cream, i cupful powdered sugar. White 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Beat the cream till perfectly stiff, adding the sugar gradually. Blend in the white of egg beaten to a froth, flavor with the vanilla, and serve cold. Jelly Sauce. Yolks 3 eggs, i cupful powdered sugar, 2 cupfuls hot milk, 1 tablespoonful gelatin, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Beat the yolks of eggs till very thick, adding the sugar gradually, pour over it the milk, cook to a creamy custard, then add the gela- tin dissolved in a little cold water, and flavor with vamlla. Pistachio Sauce. 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, 2 cupfuls boiling water, 1 teaspoonful pistachio, J cupful chopped pistachio nuts. Boil the sugar and water together five minutes, thicken with cornstarch dissolved in cold water, flavor with pistachio, and stir in the nuts, and chm. If desired, this sauce may be served hot with a hot pudding. Creamy Sauce. 1 teaspoonful butter, 2 cupfuls powdered sugar, 1 egg, J cupful thick cream, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Rub to a cream butter, sugar, and egg, add cream and vanilla. If it should separate, set it over hot water and stir until smooth again. Keep on ice till wanted. Flaiu Hot Sauce. 2 cupfuls water, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, 1 teaspoonful butter, 1 lemon. Boil sugar, and water, stir in corn- starch, wet with water, butter, 1 lump of sugar well rubbed on lemon rind, or any flavoring preferred. Care must be taken to cook corn- starch well or it will taste raw. CHAPTER XXXI FROZEN DESSERTS To the country housewife who has access to plenty of ice, milk, cream, and fruit, raw or preserved, frozen desserts are not a luxury; besides, they require no more time to make than a pie. In hot weather at least they are very much to be preferred to pastry desserts, both hygienically and from a palatable standpoint. Cream is by no means a necessity in the making of frozen dishes — fruit can be frozen, delicious sherbets may he made from milk or fruit-flavored water, and are as inexpensive as they are good. In a home where there are children, the little ones will gladly come to aid during the freezing proc- ess when ice cream is in prospect, as every mother knows. First, there is the necessity of a good freezer. Never economize by purchasing a cheap one; the best is the truest economy in the end. Alsq provide a strong burlap bag and a mallet for smashing ice, as well as a dipper to measure salt and ice, for half the rapidity of the freezing process depends on the proper pro- portions being used. In winter, snow can be utilized instead of ice; if the salt does not act rapidly upon it, add a cupful cold water. Before pouring the stuff to be frozen into the can, adjust every part and give the crank a few twirls to insure the freezer being in first-class order. Then fill the can, adjust it again, and put in the crushed ice and salt in proper quantities. If there is only a small quantity to be frozen, the salt and ice need come no higher than the mixture inside. Never fill the can to the top; it will make a cream coarse-grained or it will spill out. At first, turn the crank stead- ily but rather slowly. When frozen to a mush, turn more rapidly, add- ing more salt and ice if necessary. Never draw off the brine till the freezing process is accomplished, then remove the top and dasher, and pack solidly with a spoon, put a cork dipped in lard into the hole at the top so there will not be the slightest danger of brine working in, and re- pack the freezer with 4 measures ice to one salt. Cover with newspapers or a piece of carpet and leave it, if possible, for two hours to mellow and ripen. If nuts, fruit, or liquors are to be added to frozen stuff, do not put them in till the mixture is a mush. When serving time comes, remove the can, wipe it off carefully before open- ing to make sure not a drop of brine can get inside, take off the lid, run a palette knife around the edge of the cream, invert the can on a platter, and the contents will slip out. If it should prove refractory, wring a cloth from hot water, wrap it about the can, and there will be no further trouble. Keep your freezer in perfect or- der. After using, wash it thoroughly and set the pieces in a moderate oven or over the stove to get per- fectly dry. Occasionally a drop of oil is needed to make it work well. There is a small hole in the cap cov- ering the gear; look into this end an^ turn the crank till you discover an- other hole in the top gear of the frame. Let a few drops of machine oil drop into it. Frozen dishes may be classified thus: Water lee. — Sweetened fruit juice, diluted with water, requires 3 level measures ice to 1 salt. 191 192 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Sherbet. — A water ice, to which has been added a small quantity of dis- solved gelatin or beaten whites of eggs. Frappe. — ^Water ice frozen to the consistency of mush. Frapp6 re- quires equal quantities of ice and salt to give it a granular consistency. Punch. — A water ice, to which has been added spirits or spices for stronger flavoring. Frozen Fruits. — Fruit pulp frozen where one or several kinds of fruits have been used. ' Philadelphia Ice Cream. — A cus- tard foundation thin cream, and fla- voring. Uousse (Parfait or Fruit Pud- ding). — Heavy cream, whipped stiff, sweetened, flavored, poured in ji mold, packed in ice and salt (9 parts ice to 1 salt), and allowed to stand three or four hours. Mousse is also made from the whip off thin cream folded into a mixture containing a small quantity of gelatin. WATER ICES Cider Ice. 1 quart cider, 1 cupful orange juice, i cupful lemon juice, 1} cupfuls sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the cider, add the fruit juice, mix the ingredients, and freeze. Orange Ice. 4 cupfuls water, 2 cupfuls orange juice, 2 cupfuls sugar, i cupful lemon juice. Grated rind 2 oranges. Boil sugar and water twenty min- utes. Add fruit juices and grated rind; cool, strain, and freeze. Apple Water Ice. 6 large tart apples, 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water, 2 lemons. Put the apples, sugar, and water on to boil, add the grated yellow rind of 1 lemon. Cook' until the apples are reduced to a pulp, take from the fire, drain carefully, without squeez- ing, add the juice of the lemons; when cold, freeze. Currant Water Ice. 2 cupfuls red-currant juice, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls boiling water. Add the sugar to the boiling wa- ter, and stir until dissolved. When cold, add the currant juice, and freeze. Pineapple Water lee. 2 large yellow pineapples, 3 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. Juice 2 lemons. Pare the pineapples, grate them, and add the juice of the lemons. BoU the sugar and water together five minutes. When cold, add the pine- apple, strain through a, fine sieve, and freeze. Raspberry Water Ice. 1 quart red raspberries, 4 cupfuls water. Juice 2 lemons, 2 cupfuls sugar. Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, stir, and stand an hour; then mash, add the water, strain through a cloth, and freeze. Strawberry Water Ice. 1 quart strawberries, 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. Juice 2 lemons. Add the sugar and lemon juice to the strawberries, mash them, and stand an hour; add the water, strain through a cloth, and freeze. , Grape Water Ice. 3 pounds Concord grapes, 4 cupfuls water, 2 cupfuls sugar. FROZEN DESSERTS 193 Boil the sugar and water together five minutes. Pulp the grapes, add the pulps and skins to the sirup; stand to cool. When cold, press through a fine sieve, being careful not to mash the seeds, and freeze. Qinger Water Ice. 6 ounces preserved ginger, 1 quart lemon water ice. Pound 4 ounces ginger to a paste. Cut the remaining 3 ounces into very thin slices and stir these into the wa- ter ice. Repaclc, and stand to ripen. lemon Water Ice. 4 large juicy lemons, 4 cupfuls water, I orange, 2J cupfuls sugar. Put the sugar and water on to boil. Chip the yellow rind from 3 lemons and the orange, add to the sirup, boil five minutes, and stand to cool. Squeeze the juice from the orange and lemons, add to the cold sirup, strain through a cloth, and freeze. Barberry Water Ice. 4 large juicy lemons, 4 cupfuls water, 1 orange, 2i cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful barberry juice. Add i pint barberry juice, slightly sweetened, to the recipe for lemon wa- ter ice, before freezing. Pomegranate Water Ice. 1 dozen ripe pomegranates, 2 cupfuls water, . 2 cupfuls sugar. Cut the pomegranates into halves, remove the seeds carefully from the inside bitter skin, press in a sieve without breaking the seeds. Add the sugar to the juice, and stir until dis- solved, add the water, strain, and freeze. Quince Water Ice. 3 large ripe quinces, 4 cupfuls water, 1 cupful sugar. Pare the quinces and cut into thin slices, add with the sugar to the wa- ter, cover the saucepan, cook fifteen minutes, strain, and freeze. Italian Tutti-Frutti. 1 pound mixed French candied fruits, 4 cupfuls water, 3i cupfuls sugar, 3 lemons, 4 oranges. Chop the fruit fine. Put the sugar and water with chipped rinds of 3 lemons and 1 orange to boil five min- u, Round Fluted Mold; b, French Bread Pan; c. Melon Mold; d. Pudding Mold; e. Shell Mold for Jelly; f, Deep Fluted Mold; g, In- dividual Shell Mold for Jelly or Cream ; h. Individual Jelly Mold. utes. When cold, add the juice of 3 lemons and oranges, strain, and freeze very hard; then stir in the fruit, stand thirty minutes, and it is ready to serve. SHERBETS Lemon Sherbet. 4 lemons, 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart boiling water. Shave off the peel from 3 lemons. Put -the parings into a bowl, add the boiling water, and let stand ten min- utes closely covered. Cut the lemons 194 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in halves, remove the seeds, squeeze out the juice, and add with the sugar to the water. Strain and freeze. Lemon Sherbet with Gelatin. 1 tablespoonful gelatin, 3J cupfuls cold water, 6 lemons, 1 cupful sugar, i cupful boiling water. Soak the gelatin in i cupful cold water twenty minutes. Put the sug- ar and remaining cold water into a pitcher. Pare the lemons, cut in halves, remove the seeds, and press out the juice with a. lemon squeezer; add it to the sirup. Dissolve the soaked gelatin in the boiling water, and add to the other mixture. Strain and freeze. Apple Sherbet. 2 cupfuls sugar. Juice 2 lemons, 1 pound apples, 1 quart water. White 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar. Put the sugar, water, and rind of 1 lemon, chipped, on to boil. Pare, core, and quarter the apples, add them to the sirup, and cook until ten- der; press through a fine sieve, add the juice of lemons, and, when cold, freeze the same as ice cream. Beat the white of 1 egg until frothy, add a tablespoonful powdered sugar, and beat until white and stiff. Remove the dasher, stir in the meringue, and repack. Apricot Sherbet. 1 quart apricots, 1 lemon, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful water. Boil the sugar and water five min- utes. Press the apricots through a sieve, add to the sirup, and lemon juice. When cold, freeze. Peach sherbet is made in the same manner. Banana Sherbet. 1 dozen red-skinned bananas, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 oranges, 1 quart water. Boil the sugar and water five min- utes, and add the juice of the oranges; when cold, stir in the ba- nanas mashed fine, and freeze. Cherry Sherbet. 1 quart sour cherries, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water. Boa the sugar and water fifteen minutes. Stone the cherries, and add to the sirup when cold. Press through a sieve, and freeze. Ginger Sherbet. 4 large jvdcy lemons, 1 quart water, IJ pounds sugar. Make a lemon sherbet; when fro- zen, add a tablespoonful sirup from preserved Canton ginger. Orange Sherbet. 1 pint orange juice, 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water. Cover the gelatin with a little cold water and soak half an hour. Boil the sugar and water five minutes, add the gelatin, and allow to cool. Add the orange juice, and freeze. Easpberry-and-Currant Sherbet. 1 quart raspberries, J pint currant juice, 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water. Boil the sugar and water five min- utes. When cold, add the currant juice and the raspberries, mashed; strain through a cloth, and freeze. Pineapple Sherbet. 2 large pineapples or 1 quart can, 2J cupfuls sugar. FROZEN DESSiERTS Ids Juice 3 lemons, 1 quart water. Grate the pineapple. Boil the sug- ar and water five minutes, add the pineapple and juice of lemons. Strain and freeze. Pomona Sherbet. 1 pint orange juice, 1 quart new cider, 2 cupfuls sugar. Mix the cider and orange juice, stir in the sugar until thoroughly dis- solved; strain and freeze. Strawherry Sherbet. 1 quart red strawberries, 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water. Juice 3 lemons. Boil the sugar and water. Add the lemon juice to the strawberries and mash them. When the sirup is cold, pour it over the strawberries, strain and freeze. f omegranate §herbet. 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 teaspooonful gelatin, 1 quart water, i dozen blood oranges, 1 lemon. Prepare a sirup as for lemon sher- bet; when cold, add lemon juice^ freeze. Peach Sherbet. 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 teaspoonful gelatin, 2 oranges, 1 quart water, I peck peaches, 1 lemon. To a sirup prepared as for lemon sherbet, add a pint peach pulp, also the orange and lemon juice. Blackberry Sherbet. 3 quarts blackberries, 1 tablespoonful gelatin, 2 cupfuls granulated sugar, 2 lemons. Crush 2 quarts juicy blackberries with a cupful granulated sugar. Let stand an hour. Put the fruit and sugar through a vegetable press and strain the juice. There should be at least 1| pints. To this add another cupful sugar and a pint water, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Have ready a tablespoonful gelatin which has been soaked half an hour in cold water, then dissolved in a little boil- ing water. Put this with the other ingredients, add the lemon juice, and freeze. Milk Sherbet. 1 teaspoonful gelatin, IJ cupfuls sugar, 1 quart milk. Juice 4 lemons. Juice 1 orange. Soften the gelatin in J cupful milk, dissolve over hot water, and strain into the rest of the milk; turn the milk into the can of the freezer packed for freezing; when thoroughly chilled, add the fruit juice and sugar stirred together; freeze. PBAPPfS Iced Chocolate. 4 ounces Runkel's Sweet Choco- late, Scant i cupful sugar, 1 cupful water, 1 quart cream, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Put the chocolate, water, and sug- ar in a saucepan to melt; stir until perfectly smooth. Put the cream in a double boiler, and when hot, add gradually to the chocolate mixture, and beat until thoroughly mixed; when cold, strain, add the vanilla^ and freeze. Iced Coffee. If cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls water, 2 cupfuls black coffee, 1 quart cream. 196 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Boll the sugar and water together five minutes, add the coffee, then the cream, and when cold, freeze. Serve in glasses. Iced Xemonade. 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. Juice 4 large lemons. Melt the sugar and water together, add the lemon juice, and freeze to the consistency of soft snow. Serve in lemonade glasses. Iced Raspherry Vinegar. Sugar, 1 quart water, Raspberry vinegar. Mix the sugar, raspberry vinegar, and water according to taste, mak- ing it a little oversweet; freeze. Coffee Frappe. 8 cupfuls water, 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful coffee. White 1 egg. Put the coffee in a farina boiler, pour boiling water over it, stir occa- sionally five minutes, then strain through fine muslin, add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. When cold, add the white of egg imbeaten, and freeze to the consistency of wet snow. Serve in punch glasses. Tea frapp6. may be made after the same fashion. Orange Crianite. 6 oranges, 2 cupfuls orange juice, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls water. Boil the sugar and water five min- utes. Peel the oranges, remove every particle of white skin, separate the carpels and carefully remove the seeds. Drop these into the hot sirup, and stand an hour, then drain the sirup into another vessel, add the orange juice, mix, strain, and freeze. When frozen rather stiff, add the pieces of oranges, and serve in glasses. Strawberry Granite. 2 cupfuls orange juice, 2 cupfuls strawberry jmce, 1 quart whole strawberries, 3 cupfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls water. Boil the sugar and water five min- utes. Drop the strawberries into this sirup, lift them carefully with a skimmer, and place on a platter to cool; then add to the sirup the straw- berry and orange juice. Strain and freeze. When frozen, stir in the strawberries, and serve in glasses. FROZEN rUTJITS Frozen Apricots. 1 quart can apricots, 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls cream. Drain the apricots, cut them in pieces, measure the sirup, and add sufficient water to nnke IJ pints; add the sugar. Cover the gelatin with a little cold water and soak half an hour. Boil the sugar, sirup, and water together five minutes, skim carefully, add the gelatin, stir until dissolved, add the apricots, and stand to cool; then freeze, stirring slowly. When frozen, remove the dasher and add the cream whipped. Repack, cover, and stand two hours. Dried apricots, carefully cooked, can be used. Frozen Bananas. 1 dozen red-skinned bananas, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls water. Juice 2 oranges, 2 cupfuls cream. Peel the bananas, cut them in slices, then mash fine. Boil the wa- ter and sugar five minutes, strain, and when cool, add the orange juice and bananas. Freeze, turning slowly. When frozen, remove the dasher and FROZEN DESSERTS 197 stir in carefully the cream whipped. Repack, and put away to ripen. Frozen Peaches. 5 pounds peaches, 4 cupfuls water, 6 peach kernels, 3 cupfuls sugar. Pare the peaches and take out the stones. Pound the kernels to a paste, add them with the sugar to the wa- ter, boil five minutes, strain, and cool. When cold, add the peaches, mashed, and freeze. Repack, and stand to ripen. I'rozen Cherries. 3 quarts morello cherries, 4 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar, and stand an hour; add the water, stir until the sugar is thor- oughly dissolved, put in the freezer, and turn rapidly until frozen. rrozen Pineapples. 3 large pineapples, 4 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. Pare the pineapples, cut out the eyes, and grate the flesh, rejecting the core; add the sugar and water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and freeze. Frozen Baspbeiries. 1 quart raspberries, 5 cupfuls sugar. Juice lemons, 4 cupfuls water. Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, mash, and stand an hour; add the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and freeze. Frozen Strawberries. 1 quart strawberries. Juice 3 lemons, 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, and stand an hour. Mash the berries, add the water, stir until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, and freeze slowly. ICE CKEAM Coffee Cream. i cupful very strong coffee, 1 pint milk, 3 pints cream, 2 cupfuls sugar. Heat the milk and half the cream in a double boiler. Put in the coffee and sugar, and stir until the latter is dissolved. Take from the fire, and when cool, put into the freezer with the uncooked cream. If you wish to have a light, more spongy cream, you may whip the uncooked cream, and stir this into the contents of the freezer when these have begun to congeal. Freeze, and when solid, pack for an hour before serving. Xemon Cream. 1 pint cream, I teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful sugar, 1 lemon. Pare the rind off a lemon, cut in halves, remove the seeds, and squeeze out the juice. Strain the juice and mix it with the same amount of sug- ar. Boil until clear, stir through the cream, and freeze. Vanilla Ice Cream. 3 cupfuls milk, 1§ cupfuls whipped cream, J cupful sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespooonf ul Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla. Beat the eggs with the sugar, scald the milk, blend, and pour the mix- ture in a double boiler. Cook a few minutes to set the eggs, but not so the mixture thickens like a custard. Remove from the fire, cool, add the cream and vanilla. When cold, freeze. 198 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Pistachio Cream. 1 quart cream, J pound pistachio nuts, 1 quart milk, li cupfuls sugar, 1 dessertspoonful pistache ex- tract. Shell the nuts and remove the out- side skins; chop fine and rub to a paste, adding gradually the extract. Add the sugar to the milk, and stir in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved and the milk hot. Stand until cold. Add a little cream grad- ually to the nuts, continue rubbing constantly to a smooth paste, then add the entire quantity of cream. If the nuts are pale, add 2 drops green coloring. Add this to the milk, and freeze. Bisque Ice Cieam. Yolks 8 eggs, IJ pints cream. Juice 1 orange, i cupful sugar, J saltspoonful salt, i pound macaroons. Beat the first 3 ingredients with a wire whip until the mixture is very smooth. Pour it into a saucepan, place over a slow fire, and stir con- stantly until it is a custard. Do not let it boil. Strain into a bowl which has been chilled; stir two minutes and freeze. Remove dasher, ilavor with i teaspoonful grated rind of orange or lemon, add the cream whipped stiff, and the macaroons crushed iuie. Pack in ice and salt. Strawberry Ice Cream. 1 quart strawberries, 1 quart cream, 3 cupfuls sugar. Put half the sugar and half the cream in a double boiler over the fire; when the sugar dissolves, cool. Mash the strawberries, adding half the sug- ar, then stand an hour. Press through a colander. Add remaining half the cream to the sweetened cream and freeze moderately stiff, then add the berries, and repack. If canned straw- berries are used, half the sugar may- be omitted. Pineapple Cream. 1 quart cream, 2 cupfuls sugar. Juice 1 lemon, 1 large pineapple or 1 pint can. Scald the cream with half the sug- ar, stir until sugar' is dissolved, and cool. Grate the pineapple, mix with the rest of the sugar, and stir untU dissolved. Add the remaining pint cream to sweetened cream, and freeze; add the lemon juice to the pineapple, and stir into the frozen cream; beat thoroughly and pack. If canned pine- apple is used, add the lemon juice, and stir into the cream when cold. Ginger Cream. 6 ounces preserved ginger, 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, 1 pint cream, J cupful sugar. Pound the sugar to a paste with the lemon juice. Mix sugar and cream, add to the ginger, press through a sieve, and freeze. Cocoannt Cream. 1 quart cream, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla, 1 cocoanut grated. Scald half the cream with the sug- ar. When cool, add the rest of cream, vanilla, and cocoanut; freeze. Vanilla Cream with Extract. 1 quart cream, 1 cupful sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla. Scald half the cream with sugar. When cold, add the remainder of the cream, vanilla, and freeze. FROZEN DESSERTS I9d tee Cream from Condensed ICilk. 1 can condensed milk, 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 1 tablespoonf ul Mcllhenn y's Mexican Vanilla. Add sufficient boiling water to 1 can condensed milk to make it the proper consistency. Moisten 3 table- spoonfuls cornstarch with a little cold milk, add to the mixture, stir and cook five minutes, and take from the fire; when cold, add vanilla extract to flavor; freeze. Arrowroot Cream. 1 pint cream, 1 quart milk, IJ cupfuls sugar, 2 tablespoonf uls arrowroot, 1 tablespoonf ul Mcllhenn y's Mexican Vanilla. Moisten the arrowroot with a little milk; put the remainder in a double boiler; when hot, add the arrowroot, stir and cook ten minutes, add the sugar, take from the fire, add the cream and vanilla. When cold, freeze. Gelatin Cream. 1 quart cream, 1 pint milk, IJ cupfuls sugar, J box gelatin, 2 tablespoonf uls Mcllhenn y's Mexican Vanilla. Cover the gelatin with the milk and stand in a cool place thirty minutes; put it in a double boiler; when hot, add the sugar, strain, add the cream and vanilla, and freeze. Caramel Cream. 1 quart cream, 1 cupful sugar, 6 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls caramel, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Beat the yolks of eggs and the sugar together until light. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, stir them into the yolks and sugar. Scald the cream, then stir and cook until the mixture begins to thicken. Take from the fire, and strain; when cold, add the vanilla, and freeze. Almond Cream. Yolks 6 eggs, 1 quart cream, 2 ounces Jordan almonds, IJ cupfuls sugar. Blanch the almonds and chop them fine. Put 2 tablespoonfuls granulated sugar with the chopped almonds in a saucepan, stir over the fire until the almonds are red brown, take from the fire and when cool, pound them to a paste. Put the cream in a double boiler. Beat the eggs and sugar to- gether until light, add to the hot cream, stir until thickened, take from the fire, add the pounded almonds, and freeze. Brown-Bread Ice Cream. 2 slices brown bread, 1 cupful sugar, 2 lady's fingers, i pint milk, 1 pint cream. Put the bread in the oven and brown, roll, and sift. Dry and roll the lady's fingers. Put the cream, milk, and sugar in a double boiler, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; when cold, freeze. When frozen, add the sifted crumbs, and repack. Kaspberry-Jam Cream. 1 pound raspberry jam. Juice 1 lemon, 1 pint cream, 1 gill milk. Mix the lemon juice with the rasp- berry jam, add gradually the milk and cream, strain through a sieve, and freeze. Burnt-Almond Cream. 1 quart cream, 1 cupful sugar, 4 ounces shelled almonds. 200 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 teaspoonful caramel, 1 tablespoonf 111 Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla. Blanch and roast the almonds, then povind them in a mortar to a. paste. Put half the cream and the sugar on to boil, stir until the sugar Is dis- solved, add the remaining pint of cream and the almonds; when cold, add the caramel and vanilla; freeze. Chocolate Cream. S cupfuls scalded milk, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 egg, J cupful boiling water, IJ cupfuls sugar, J teaspoonful salt, 3 squares Runlcel's Chocolate, 1 quart thin cream, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can VaniUa. Mix 1 cupful sugar with the flour and salt. Add the egg slightly beat- en, and gradually the milk. Cook over hot water twenty minutes, stir- ring constantly at first. Put choco- late in saucepan, place over hot wa- ter, and when melted, add remaining sugar and boiling water. Add choco- late mixture to hot custard. Cool, add cream and flavoring, strain and freeze. One third cupful Runkel's Prepared Cocoa may be used in place of chocolate. Apricot Cream. 1 quart cream, li cupfuls sugar, 1 quart apricots or 1 pint can. Put half the cream to heat in a double boiler. When hot, add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. Take from the fire, add the remaining half of the cream, and when cold, freeze. Mash the apricots and stir them quickly into the frozen cream; turn the crank rapidly for five minutes; pack. Banana Cream. 8 bananas, 1 quart cream, 1 cupful cream. Peel and mash the bananas. Put 1 pint cream to scald in a double boiler. When hot, add the sugar, stir until dissolved, and cool. Beat and stir the bananas to a smooth paste, add to the cream and sugar; then add the remainder of cream, and freeze. Uandarin Cream. 1 quart cream, 1 cupful sugar. Juice 13 mandarins. Rind S mandarins. Put half the cream to scald in a double boiler, add the sugar, and stir imtil dissolved. When cool, add the juice and rind of mandarins and the remaining half of cream; freeze. Raspberry Cream. 1 quart cream, S cupfuls sugar, 1 quart raspberries. Juice 1 lemon. Put half the sugar, and cream to boil; when sugar is dissolved, cool; add the rest of sugar and lemon juice to the berries, stand an hour, then strain. Add the remaining half of the cream to the sweetened cream, and freeze; when frozen, stir in the fruit juice, beat tlioroughly, and pack. Peach Cream. 1 quart cream, J peck peaches, IJ cupfuls sugar, 1 lemon. Scald 1 quart thin cream and 1 cupful sugar; when cold, freeze to a mush, then add li cupfuls peach pulp, mixed with J cupful sugar, and the juice of J lemon; finish freezing. Blackberry Ice Cream. 1 quart milk, 1 quart blackberries, 1 lemon,- 1 pint double cream, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. FROZEN DESSERTS 201 Stir cornstarch, mixed with the sugar, into the milk, which has been previously scalded. Cook until the mixture thickens. The mixture will be as thick as thin cream. Add the cream, and when cold, freeze to a mush. A tablespoonful lemon ex- tract may be added before freezing. Crush a basket of ripe, juicy black- berries, and press through a purie sieve to remove the seeds. Mix the pulpy juice, of which there should be a pint, with a cupful sugar, and set on the ice to chill. Add to the half- frozen mixture, and finish freezing. PABFAIT, MOUSSE, AND FROZEN PUDDING Apricot Pudding. 1 quart cream. Yolks 4 eggs, IJ cupfuls sugar, 13 apricots. Scald 1 pint cream. Beat together the egg yolks, and sugar, stir into hot cream, cook one minute, take from the fire, and add the remaining pint cream. When frozen, stir in the apri- cots, which should be pared and cut in small pieces. Peach pudding may be made in the same manner. Queen Pudding. Line a melon mold two inches deep with vanilla ice cream or strawberry water ice. Have ready a pint frozen peaches; fill these into the center, cover with ice cream, put on the lid, bind the edges with a strip of but- tered cloth, pack and stand two hours. When ready to serve, wipe the outside of the mold, with a warm towel, and turn the pudding out on a large dish. Dust with grated maca- roons, and serve inmiediately. Chesterfield Cream. 1| cupfuls sugar, Rind 1 lemon, 1 pint preserved damsons, IJ pints cream. Yolks 3 eggs, 2 inch stick cinnamon. Scald the cream with the cinnamon and the rind of lemon chipped. Beat the sugar and yolks together, add to the hot cream, cook one minute, strain, and when cold, freeze. When a. Extension Strainer ; b. Small Wire Strainer. frozen, stir in an extra pint cream whipped. Stand two hours. Serve with preserved damsons around it. Macedoine of Fruit. 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water, 3 bananas. Juice 2 oranges, 1 lemon, 1 small pineapple, 13 large strawberries, 1 gill strawberry jelly, 3 tablespoonfuls gelatin. Cover the gelatin with a little cold water, and soak half an hour. Boil the sugar and water together ten minutes, add the gelatin, orange, and lemon juice, bananas cut into small pieces, pineapple picked into small pieces, strawberries cut into halves, and jelly cut into blocks. Freeze, turning the crank very slowly. Frozen Orange Souffle. 1 quart cream, 1 pint orange juice. Yolks 6 eggs, 2 cupfuls sugar, I box gelatin. Cover the gelatin with J cupful cold water, and soak an hour, then dis- solve in 4 cupful boiling water. Mix the orange juice and the sugar to- gether. Whip the cream. Beat the yolks until light, add them to the orange juice and sugar; add the gela- tin, strain, and freeze. When frozen. S02 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK remove dasher, stir in tlie whipped cream, and stand two hours to ripen. Frozen Strawberry Souffle. 1 pint strawberry juice, IJ cupfuls sugar, i box gelatin, i cupful cold water. Yolks 6 eggs, 1 quart cream. Mix the strawberry juice and sug- ar untU they form a sirup. Cover the gelatin with cold water, and soak half an hour, then add a cupful boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Beat the yolks of eggs, add them to the sirup, also the gelatin, and freeze. When frozen, stir in lightly the cream whipped to a stiff froth; repack. Frozen Pudding. 1 quart milk, 20 large raisins. Yolks 4 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, 2 ounces citron, 2 ounces almonds, 1 tablespoonf ul Mcllhenny's Mexican "Vanilla. 1 ounce preserved ginger. Put the milk and raisins in a double boiler and cook twenty minutes. Beat the yolks and sugar together, add to the hot milk, cook one minute, and strain. When cold, add the citron chopped fine, the almonds blanched and grated, the vanilla and ginger cut into small pieces; freeze. Orange Mousse. 6 oranges, 1 pint cream, IJ cupfuls sugar, 1 candied orange. Squeeze orange juice into a sauce- pan with the sugar; add the rind of 1 orange, cut in pieces and 2 table- spoonfuls water. Place over the fire, stir with a wooden spoon until melted, strain, cool, and freeze. When fro- zen, remove dasher and add 1 pint cream whipped stiff, also the candied orange cut into small pieces. Pack in ice and salt for an hour and a half. Garnish with small pieces candied orange cut in thin strips, alternating with angelica cut in the same fashion. Finish with a row of sliced oranges cut in halves and lapping over each other. Tutti-rrntti. 2 cupfuls milk. Yolks S eggs, 2J cupfuls thin cream, I cupful sugar, J teaspoonful salt, 1 J tablespoonf uls Mcllhenn y's Mexican Vanilla, Ij cupfuls fruit cut in small pieces. Make a custard of first 4 ingre- dients, strain, and cool. Add the cream and flavoring, then freeze to the consistency of mush, add the fruit, and continue freezing. Mold, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Candied cherries, pine- apple, figs, sultana raisins, and citron may be used. Pineapple Uousse. 1 teaspoonful gelatin, 1 pint double cream, 1 cupful scalded pineapple juice, i cupful sugar. Juice i lemon. Soften the gelatin in 3 tablespoon- fuls cold water five minutes and dis- solve in the hot pineapple juice; add the sugar and let cool, then add the lemon juice and the cream; beat the mixture with an egg beater until thick. Turn into a chilled mold; press the cover down over wrapping paper, and let stand packed in equal measures of ice and salt three or four hours. Turn from the mold and sur- round with half slices pineapple sug- ared or dressed with a cold sugar sirup. Frozen Custard. 1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, FROZEN DESSERTS 1 tablespoonf 111 Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla, 2 tablespoonf uls • cornstarch. Scald the milk. Moisten the corn- starch with a little cold milk, add it to the hot milk, and stir until it be- gins to thjjken. Beat the eggs and sugar together, add to the hot milk, cook one minute, take from the fire, add vanilla, when cold, freeze. Frozen Coffee Custard. 4 eggs, J pint cream, 1 cupful sugar, 1 pint milk, i pint strong coffee. Scald the milk. Beat the eggs and sugar together until light; add them to the hot milk, cook, and instantly take from the fire, add the cream and coffee. When cold, freeze. Prozen Chocolate Cnstard. 4 eggs, 1 pint cream, 1 pint milk, 1 cupful sugar, 2 ounces Runkel's Chocolate, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Put the milk over the fire in a dou- ble boUer; add the chocolate grated. Beat the eggs and sugar until light, add to, the hot milk, cook one minute, take from the fire, add the cream and a teaspoonful vanilla. When cold, freeze. Stuffed Uousse. 1 quart strawberry water ice, 1 pint cream, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, J cupful powdered sugar. Whip the cream to a stiff froth, drain, sprinkle over it the sugar and vanilla, mix carefully. Pack a 2- quart melon mold in salt and ice, line with the strawberry water ice, re- serving enough to cover bottom of the mold. Turn the whipped cream into the center, cover the water ice over the bottom, put on the lid, bind with a strip of buttered muslin, cover with salt and ice, and stand three or four hours. Nesselrode Pudding. 1 pint large chestnuts, 1 pint cream, 1 pint water. Yolks 6 eggs, 2 cupfuls sugar, i pint grated pineapple, 1 pound mixed French candied fruit, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Boil the chestnuts until tender, re- move the shells and brown skins, press the pulp through a colander. Boil the sugar and water together five minutes. Beat the yolks of eggs until light, add to the boiling sirup, take from the fire, and beat until thick and cool. When cool, add the candied fruit chopped fine, the va- nilla, pineapple, and chestnuts. When frozen, remove the dasher, and stir in the cream, whipped to a. stiff froth. Iced Bice Pudding. i cupful rice, 1 pint milk, 1 quart cream, 2 cupfuls sugar. Yolks 6 eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Boil rice in 1 pint cold water; drain, cover with the milk, and boil half an hour longer. While this is boiling, whip the cream. After you have whipped all you can, add the remain- der and what has drained from the other to the rice and milk. Stand the whipped cream in a cold place. Press the rice through a sieve, and return to the double boiler. Beat the yolks and sugar together, pour over the rice, stir, return again to the fire, and cook two minutes, or until it begins to thicken. Add the vanilla, stir in the whipped cream, remove the dasher, 204 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK smooth down the pudding, repack, and stand two hours. Compote of Oranges. 1 dozen sweet oranges, 2 cupfuls sugar. Juice i lemon, 1 gill water. Put the sugar and water to boil; cook five minutes, skim, and add the lemon juice. Peel the oranges, cut in halves crosswise and cut out the cores with a sharp knife; put a few pieces at a time in the hot sirup, and lay them out singly on a flat dish; pour over them the remaining sirup and stand on ice to cool. To dish the pudding, lift out the can and care- fully wipe off the brine. Wipe the bottom with a towel dipped in boiling water, put a dish over the top of it, turn it upside down, and remove the can. Heap the oranges on top and arrange them around the base of the pudding, pour the sirup over them, and serve. Puree of Apricots. 1 quart can apricots, 1 cupful sugar. Yolks 6 eggs, 1 pint cream. Mash the apricots, beat the yolks of eggs and sugar together until light, then add them with the cream to the apricots; turn into a double boiler, and stir until the eggs begin to thicken. Strain, and whip to the consistency of sponge-cake batter. When cool, turn into a mold and set in ice and salt three hours. Plombiere. i pound Jordan almonds. Yolks 7 eggs, 1 quart cream, i cupful sugar. Blanch and pound the almonds to a paste. Scald the cream in a double boiler, add the almonds, egg yolks and sugar beaten to a cream, and stir over the fire until they begin to thick; beat for three minutes. Strain and freeze. When frozen, re- move the dasher, make a small well in the center, fill with apricot jam, cover, and stand two hours. Montrose Pudding. 1 quart cream. Yolks 6 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonf ul Mcllhenny's Mexican VaniUa, 1 pint strawberry water ice. Scald the cream, beat the yolks and sugar, stir into the boiling cream, and cook until it thickens. Take from the fire, add the remaining pint cream and the vanilla, stand until cool, and freeze. When frozen, pack into a round mold, leaving a well in the center. Fill with strawberry water ice, cover with some of the pudding you have taken out. Pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with the following sauce poured around it: Vanilla Sauce. 1 tablespoonful gelatin, 1 pint cream. Yolks 3 eggs, i cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Cover the gelatin with a little cold water and soak half an hour. ScEild the cream. Beat the yolks and sugar together, add the boiling cream, stir until it thickens, add the gelatin, stir until it" dissolves ; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and stand in a cold place until wanted. Prozen Chocolate with Whipped Cream. 3 squares Runkel's Chocolate, 1 cupful sugar. Dash salt, 1 cupful milk, 3 cupfuls thin cream, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Melt the chocolate, scald the milk with the sugar and salt, and pour it FROZEN DESSERTS 205 over the chocolate. Add the cream, cool, freeze, and serve in glasses with a spoonful whipped cream in each. Chocolate Sauce to Serve with Va- nilla Ice Cream. IJ cupfuls water, i cupful sugar, 6 tablespoonfuls Runkel's Choco- late, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, J cupful cold water. Dash salt, J tablespoonful Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla. Boil the water and sugar five min- utes. Dissolve the cornstarch in cold water, add the grated chocolate, combine the mixtures, and cook in a double boiler till creamy. Flavor with vanilla, and serve hot with va- nilla cream frozen very hard. rrozen Plum Pudding. 1 quart chocolate ice cream, i cupful candied fruit, i cupful blanched and chopped almonds, i cupful raisins, J cupful macaroon crumbs toasted, i cupful shredded figs, i cupful chopped walnuts. Make the cream as directed in rec- ipe for chocolate ice cream; when al- most frozen, take off the lid, put in the fruit, turn the crank five minutes, then pack. This cream is so rich that it is at its best when served in small portions with a garnish of whipped cream. Chocolate Housse. 2 squares Runkel's Chocolate, li cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful cream, i tablespoonful granulated gela- tin, 3 tablespoonfuls boiling water, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 1 quart cream. Melt the chocolate with J cupful sugar and add 1 cupful cream. Scald, then put in the gelatin dissolved in cold water, the rest of the sugar, va- nilla, and a dash of salt. Strain into a bowl and set in a pan of ice water. Stir occasionally till it thickens, then add the whip from the rest of the cream. Pour into a mold, rubbing inside the lid of the mold with lard to form a waterproof coating so no brine can enter, pack in ice and salt, and let stand four hours. Continental Pudding. li pints baked Indian-meal pud- ding, 1 pint thick cream, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful caramel, i teaspoonful cinnamon. Stir the ingredients to a smooth paste, whip the cream, beat in the sugar, add the spice, mix with the pudding, and freeze without beating, scraping the frozen mixture from the sides of the can, and stirring smooth. Serve, when frozen, with cream. Angel-Cake Glace. 1 quart cream. Whites 6 eggs, li cupfuls sugar, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, f cupful water, 4 cupful finely sifted angel-cake crumbs. Cook the cream in a farina boiler, add sugar and flavoring, cool, strain, and freeze. Reserve i pound sugar and whites 4 eggs. Cook the sug- ar and water to the same degree re- quired for boiling icing, and pour hot upon the whites beaten to the stiffest possible froth. Stir this icing, with the cake crumbs, gently into the fro- zen cream. Line the bottom of a mold with slices of angel cake; upon these place a layer of the cream, then cake, so on until the mold is full. 206 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Cover tightly, and pack in ice three hours. Fruit-Cake Crlacg. 1 pint cream. Yolks 4 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, J teaspoonful McIIhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, i teaspoonful mixed spices, 3 ounces browned almond paste, 4 macaroons, 3 ounces dried and pounded fruit cake. 1 ounce chocolate, 1 tablespoonful caramel. Make a custard of the cream, yolks, and sugar; add vanilla, sugar, spices, chocolate, and caramel; freeze, then stir in nuts and crumbs, mold in a cake pan — any ordinary oblong pan, two or two and a half inches deep, freeze in salt and ice. Turn out on platter, cover half an inch with al- mond paste mixed with little boiled icing. Serve in slices, with soft cus- tard. CHAPTER XXXII PUFF PASTE If you have a marble slab to work on when making puff paste, your work will be easier. A rolling-pin with movable handles makes the touch lighter. There can be no heavy- handed methods, or you will have a solid, indigestible substance. Scald an earthen bowl, fill with ice water; wash your hands in hot water, then in cold. Work 1 pound butter in a bowl cold water until it is waxy and nearly all the salt is washed out of it. Take out the butter, pat and squeeze till the water flies. Measure from it 2 level tablespoonfuls, mold the rest into an oblong cake, then set it where it will grow hard and cold. Sift 1 pound flour with J teaspoonful salt into the bowl. Rub between the fin- gers and thumb the 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix with ice water, stirring constantly till you have a soft dough. Turn out on a marble slab, which has been dusted with flour. Knead with an even, light touch, till it feels elas- tic; then cover with a napkin, and set away to " ripen " five minutes. When the dough is ripened, you may begin work on it. Put the paste on the slab and, with the lightest possi- ble pats from the rolling-pin, shape it about half as wide as it is long, keep- ing the corners square. At one end lay the hardened piece of butter. Over this fold the rest of the dough. Tuck lightly around the edges, in- closing all the air possible. With light taps from the rolling-pin break up the butter, spreading it and roll- ing the paste into a longer strip. Be careful to keep the sides and ends of the paste even, and to break as few air bubbles as possible. When the, strip is almost as long as the slab. fold it like the letter Z, and begin again rolling, folding, and turning until the process has been repeated six times. If the paste shows the least symptom of being soft, or the butter of breaking through, set it away to chiU before you finish the process. Roll always in one direction, from you, with a long, sweeping motion. By cutting the paste across after the work is completed, you may see the texture which gives you a crust eight times as high after baking as before it was set in an oven. You will no- tice layer after layer of a waferlike thickness of butter and paste with tiny bubbles between. Wrap it in parch- ment paper and set away in a covered dish overnight. It will be all the more tender and flaky for twenty-four hours of " ripening." During the winter a batch of puff paste, wrapped and covered, may be kept for several weeks in a very cold place. Use it as desired, baking pat4s, vol au vents, or tarts as required. These will keep five or six days after making, being reheated before they are iilled. The oven for baking puff paste should be as hot as for rolls, with the greatest heat underneath, so the patS can rise to its full height before browning. As heat touches the pas- try the bubbles expand, lifting the thin layers higher and higher. When it has reached its height, and is baked delicately brown, you have what is properly called puff paste. NOTES ABOUT PUFF PASTE When using a cutter, always dip in flour between each cutting; it will insure neat edges. 207 208 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK If the work has to be done in a warm room, chill the paste between three pans, the upper one filled with broken ice, the second one set into another large pan, also filled with ice. Puff paste is always in good condi- tion if it slips easily on the slab. Should you wish to use is for a pie, bake it vol-aii-^ent fashion over the bottom of a pie-plate first, and fill after baking, or use ordinary pie paste for the bottom when the filling is to be baked. Build up the sides with puff paste; rich pastry never makes a good un- dercrust — ^it soaks. When baking small pieces such as pats tops or cheese straws, do not put them in a pan with the larger pieces; they bake in less than half the time required by the others. If you wish pastry to have a glazed appearance, brush over with beaten egg before putting it in the oven. Utilize trimmings for smaller things; never add them to the larger pieces of paste. Use the sharpest knife for cutting pastry; if it is dragged ever so slightly in the cutting it will not rise well. Also, in making two layers of pastry adhere, never press it together or you will have a heavy spot. Always have puff paste ice cold when it is put in the oven. Let the heat be greatest at the bottom when the paste is put in; it must rise be- fore it begins to brown. trimmings stars, hearts, crescents, or any forms you can produce with a paste jagger. Brush the paste on the saucer lightly with cold water, and stick on the ornaments in any style desired. Chill the vol au vent and lid for half an hour, then bake in an oven which is very hot at first, but cooled slightly when the pastry has risen and is beginning to brown. Watch the baking with great care, as the paste will burn or become un- shapely if not turned occasionally. A vol au vent may be filled with any cream mixture or with a cooked, chilled fruit and rich sirup. Fates. Roll out the paste half an inch tliick; shape two rovmds with a pat4 cutter. From one round cut a smaller piece. Use the ring left to lay on the other round, brushing with water to make it stick. Bake and fill with a creamed mixture, using the small round as a lid. Cieam Horns. Cream horns are made on fine-pointed tubes which are called ladylock irons. Cut the paste into ribbons with a knife or jagger and begin to wind at the small end, the edges scarcely touching. - Bake delicately brown. They may be filled with cream and chicken or oysters and served as an entrde, or with whipped cream as a. dessert. » PUFP-PASTE DAINTIES Vol au Vent. Lay a mold upon a round of puff paste, ToUed about half an inch thick, and cut out a circle as big as you think will be required to cover it. Set the mold upside down and tuck down the paste, handling carefully. Do not cover scantily anywhere or it will crack. Prick all over with a fork and set away in a cold place to chill thoroughly. Find a plate or saucer which fits the top of the mold and cover with puff paste. Cut from the Cheese Straws. Season some grated cheese with paprika and salt, then dust it over a piece of puff paste. Fold the paste and roll two or three times. Cut out in rings with a doughnut cutter or in straws with a jagger. The straws may be braided or baked singly. Flaky Pie Crust. 3 cupfuls flour, i cupful butter, i cupful ice water, J cupful lard. PUFF PASTE 209 Sift the flour into a chopping bowl, add the butter and lard, and ciiop with a knife until no piece of the shortening larger than a pecan can be seen. Sprinkle the water here and there through the flour, and mix with a fork into a soft dough. Drop on a floured board, dust lightly with flour, press down with the rolling-pin, and roll back and forth until the paste becomes > an oblong sheet not more than half an inch in thickness. Slip a broad-bladed knife under each end of this sheet, and fold over toward the center, thus forming three layers of the paste. Lift, with the knife, from the board, dust with fresh flour; lay the paste down again, dust with flour, roll, and again fold over as be- fore. Repeat the operation, and the paste is ready to use. When ice wa- ter is added to the flour and short- ening, the shortening becomes dis- tributed through the flour in small balls and is not packed together in a mass, and when tBe dough is drawn together and lightly pressed with the rolling-pin these balls flatten into flakes, which, by repeated foldings, are piled one upon another, and by gently rolling become thinner and more delicate. Three rollings and foldings are as much as these flakes will bear. Rolling and folding a great number of times causes them to become broken and packed, so that the paste will not rise and puff up, as it should, in baking. It is well to let the paste lie on ice, or in a cold place, for an hour before rolling it out for pies, as its quality is im- proved by so doing; and if the weather is warm it may advantage- ously be placed on ice ten minutes between each rolling out. If a tea- spoonful baking powder be sifted with the flour, less shortening can be used, but the pastry wiU not be as crisp and delicate. — Emma P. Ewing. Apple Pie. Roll pie crust to the thickness de- sired. Place upon a pie pan, shaping it carefully, and cut round the edges with a sharp knife. Cover the bot- tom of the crust with a thin layer of sugar, dust with flour, then jfiU the crust with quarters of pared and cored apples. Dust with salt, add plenty of sugar — if the apples are very tart — roll an upper crust and lay over them, trim around the edges, press the upper and lower crusts to- gether, bake until the apples are soft and the top and bottom crusts are nicely browned. Raspberry Pie. To 3 cupfuls raspberries add 1 cup- ful ripe currants and 1 cupful gran- ulated sugar, with which a table- spoonful flour has been mixed; stir together. Line a plate with flaky pie crust, put in the fruit, cover with a tolerably thick sheet of paste, make several incisions for the escape of steam, and bake till the crusts are nicely browned. Serve cool. Cherry Pie. 2 cupfuls sour cherries, 1 cupful granulated sugar, 1 tablespoonful flour. Pick over and wash the cherriesi add sugar and flour, mix together. Line a pan with paste, fill with the cherries, and cover with a sheet of paste, rolled twice as thick as or- dinary pie crust. Make incisions near the center for the escape of steam, and bake till brown. If the cherries are sweet, use less sugar. ^ Pumpkin Pie. 2 cupfuls stewed pumpkin, 1 cupful rich milk, i cupful molasses, i cupful granulated sugar, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 eggs. Stir well together, line a deep tin pie pan with paste rolled moderately thick, sift a little flour evenly over the bottom, and fill three quarters full with the prepared mixture. Bake un- til the pie is brown in the center. In 210 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOlt preparing the pumpkin, use very little water. Cover the kettle in which it is cooking, and stew until the pumpkin is perfectly soft, then remove the cov- er and continue the stewing, stirring frequently until the moisture evap- orates and the pumpkin becomes a smooth paste. Rub through a line Sweet-Potato Pie. 2 cupfuls boiled sweet potato, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, 1 cupful sugar, Grated rind J lemon, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful salt, i grated nutmeg, 2 cupfuls milk. Yolks 3 eggs. Rub potatoes through a sieve, add butter, lemon juice, sugar in which have been mixed the grated rind of lemon, ginger, cinnamon, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir well together, add milk and the beaten yolks of 6ggs, and last the whites of eggs beat- en stiff. Fit the paste to the pan, dust with flour, fill, and bake. Custard Pie. i cupful granulated sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, 2 cupfuls milk, 3 eggs, Pinch salt. Add cornstarch to sugar, mix well, stir it into milk, boiling hot, and sim- mer five minutes. When cool, add eggs, well beaten, and salt. Line a deep pie pan with paste, dust with flour, and fill three quarters full with the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center. Grate nutmeg over the top, and serve cool. Crumb Lemon Pie. i cupful lemon juice, J cupful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 eggs. Grated peel 1 lemon, 1 cupful stale sponge-cake crimibs. Strain the lemon juice over the crumbs and soak half an hour, cream the butter, add half the sugar, then, one at a time, the yolks of eggs, then the balance of the sugar, with the lemon peel, and a pinch salt. With a fork mix the crumbs well with the lemon juice, and stir them into the butter and sugar, beating well, then add the whites of eggs beaten stiff. Bake, and serve like custard pie. lemon Pie. 2 cupfuls boiling water, IJ cupfuls sugar, i cupful lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. Grated peel 1 lemon. Yolks 3 eggs. Mix the sugar and cornstarch well together, add them to the boiling wa- ter, and cook five minutes. Remove from the fire, add butter, lemon juice, peel, and lastly the eggs beaten very lightly. Line a deep pan with the paste, dust with flour, fill three fourths full with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven till firm in the center. When cool, cover with a meringue made from whites of eggs. Vanilla Cream Pie. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, i cupful sugar, 2 cupfuls boiling milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can VaniUa. Mix together cornstarch, sugar, and boiling milk. Cook five minutes, then add, stirring rapidly while adding, well-beaten eggs. Continue cooking until the egg is delicately cooked but not curdled, remove from the fire and stir butter into the mixture. When the butter is perfectly mixed with the custard, add the vanilla, and pour into a freshly baked tart shell. Orange cream pie and lemon pie may PUFF PASTE 211 be made by using orange or lemon extract in place of vanilla. — Emma P. EwiiTG. Lemon-and-Kaisin Pie. 1 cupful chopped raisins. Juice and rind 1 lemon, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful water, 1 teaspoonful cornstarch. Boil the mixture ten minutes; bake between double crusts. Green-Currant Pie. 1 cupful green currants, i cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful butter. Yolks 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 tablespoonful water. Mash currants and sugar, using a wooden potatq masher. Beat to a cream butter and sugar, then add in successive order the yolks of eggs, flour, water, and the mashed cur- rants. Line a deep pan with pastry, fill with the currant mixture, and bake. When done, cool slightly and cover with a meringue made of the whites of 2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, and vanilla to flavor. Bake in a slow oven imtil delicately brown. Apple Pie -with. Pineapple Flavor. 3 tablespoonfuls grated pine- apple, 1 tablespoonful water, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Bake an apple pie in the usual way, but without sweetening. While it is baking, take the pineapple, water, and sugar, and simmer together till the fruit looks clear. When the pie is taken from the oven, remove the top crust, spread the pineapple over the apple, replace the cover, and set the pie away to cool. German Cherry Pie. Make a cherry pie as usual, but omit the upper crust. When nearly done, beat an egg light and add it to a scant i cupful cream and a table- spoonful sugar. Pour over the top of pie, return to the oven, and bake until the custard is set. Date Pie. 1 pound dates, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful sugar. Soak dates in warm water over- night, then stew and sift the same as pumpkin. Into the pulp stir beaten eggs, cinnamon, milk, and sugar. Bake in one crust. a. Frying Basket ; b, Meringue Bag with Pastry Tubes; c, Vegetable Plane. Pig Pie. i pound figs, 1 cupful water. Whites of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Make a rich bottom crust. Chop figs fine, cook with cupful water. Sweeten and flavor with lemon. When the figs are smooth, put into the crust and bake. Take a meringue of whites of 2 eggs, beaten stiff, with 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, fla- vor with Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanil- la, and as soon as the crust is baked, spread this over the top; let brown a minute or two. Gooseberry Pie. Cut off the blossoms and stems of berries and fill a pie dish lined with plain paste, spreading over the top 212 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK one third as much sugar as berries used. Slightly dredge with flour, and cover with a thin crust pricked with a fork. Bake half an hour. Prune Pie. J pound prunes, i cupful sugar, J cupful currant jelly or 1 tea- spoonful lemon juice. Stew prunes, remove stones, stir in sugar, currant jelly, or lemon juice. Dust flour over the fruit, and bake with an upper crust. Strawberry Pie. Line a pie plate with thin paste and set in the oven till nearly baked. Take from the oven and fill with sug- ared berries, dredge with flour, cover the top crisscross with narrow strips of paste, return to the oven, and fin- ish baking. Torto Frutas (Mexican). Line the sides of a baking dish with puff paste; cover the bottom with sliced pineapple; next a layer of sliced oranges, then sliced ba- nanas, then a few slices lemon. Sift sugar between each layer. Re- peat the layers until the dish is full, and cover the top layer with chopped nuts. Lay over the top narrow strips of the pastry, and bake slowly an hour. — Mat E. Southwokth. Cocoanut Fie. 2 cupfuls hot milk, 2 well-beaten eggs, J cupful sugar, 1 cupful grated cocoanut, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Line a plate with paste, pour milk over eggs, set the bowl containing the mixture in boiling water, stir till thick, then take it out and stir in sug- ar, cocoanut, and vanilla. Fill the pie plate. Sprinkle top of pie with co- coanut, and bake till delicately brown. Orange Pie. 1 cupful powdered sugar, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, J cupful cold milk. Grated rind and juice 1 orange, . 1 egg. 2 oranges. Beat sugar and butter together till light. Moisten cornstarch with milk, cook and stir one minute, pour quickly on butter and sugar; add the rind and juice of orange; mix well- beaten egg; peel oranges, cut into slices, and cut each slice into quarters. Line plate with paste, and bake in a quick oven until done. Stir the orange slice j quickly into the custard mixture, fill the baked crust with this, and place in a quick oven a few min- utes to brown. While it is browning, beat the whites of 2 eggs until light, add 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sug- ar, and beat until stiff. Spread this over the pie; dust thickly with pow- dered sugar, and stand again in the oven until delicately brown. Dried-Apple Pie. Soak the apples, put in a brown earthen pot, cover with water; cover the pot, and bake four or five hours; sweeten with sugar or molasses the last half hour and mash well with a spoon; when the apples are thor- oughly cooked, flavor with lemon juice and add a little butter. The pie can be baked between two crusts, or bands of the paste can be placed over the top. Banana Pie. Yolks 2 eggs, i cupful sugar, 2 large bananas. Beat the yolks of eggs and sugar to a cream. Peel and mash bananas, beat into the eggs together with mUk. Bake with one crust; when done, cover with a meringue made of the 2 whites and 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. Serve cold. PUFF PASTE 213 Hhubarb Pie. Wash rhubarb, cut in half-inch pieces, put in deep pie plate having narrow strip of paste around the edge, sprinkle with sugar mixed with flour, allowing J cupful sugar and 3 tablespoonfuls flour to every cupful rhubarb. Cover with paste, and bake like apple pie. All juicy fruit pies should be made in the same way. Chocolate Pie. 2 cupfuls scalding mUk, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, i cupful Runkel's Chocolate, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- caH Vanilla. Majce a custard by pouring milk gradually upon eggs that have been well beaten and sugar. Return to fire, stir in chocolate, remove from fire, add vanilla, and pour the mix- ture into a pie plate lined with puff paste. Bake until set. Make a me- ringue of the whites of eggs and a tablespoonful powdered sugar, and spread on top of the pie. Brown delicately. Chocolate-Cream Pie. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, i cupful sugar, 2 cupfuls scalding milk, 3 eggs, IJ squares Runkel's Chocolate, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler with the sugar, pour over it the scalding milk, add the cornstarch, and cook five minutes; then beat in the whipped eggs. Cook till the mix- ture is custardy, add a dash salt, also butter and vanilla, pour into a fresh- ly baked pie shell. Serve ice cold. If you wish to enrich this delicious pie, you may serve it with a meringue or a top of whipped cream. Kince-Meat. 3J pounds round of beef, 2 quarts chopped apples, i pint chopped suet, li pints raisins, 1 pint currants, J pound citron, 1 quart sugar, i pint molasses, 3 pints cider, 3 tablespoonfuls salt, 4 tablespoonfuls cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful allspice, 1 tablespoonful mace, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 4 nutmegs grated, 4 lemons. Put the beef in a small stewpan and cover with boiling water. Cook three hours, having the water only bubble at one side of the stewpan. Take from the fire and let the meat cool in the water, with the cover off the pan. When cold, remove fat and gristle, and chop the meat rather fine. Put it in a large bowl with all the other ingredients, except the cider, and mix thoroughly. Now, add the cider, and let the mixture stand in a cold place overnight. In the morn- ing turn the mince-meat into a porce- lain kettle and heat slowly to the boiling point; then simmer gently an hour. Put the mixture into stone jars and set away in a cold place; or it may be put in glass jars and sealed. It will keep for years in this way. When the pies are being made, 1 tumbler jelly or marmalade to 3 or 4 pies will be found a great improve- ment. — Maeia Parloa. CHAPTER XXXIII COOKIES, CAKES, AND DOUGHNUTS Uaple Hermits. I cupful maple sugar, i cupful butter, 2i cupfuls flour, i egg. 1 tablespoonful milk, J teaspoonful cloves, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, i teaspoonful soda, i cupful currants. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat in the sugar and spices. Dissolve the soda in the milk, and beat this into the sugar and butter. Add the egg well beaten, finally the flour and currants. Roll out an inch thick, and cut in squares. Bake in a quick oven twelve minutes. Sugar Cookies. 2 cupfuls sugar. 1 cupful butter. 3 eggs, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful Calumet powder. 1 teaspoonful nutmeg. baking J teaspoonful cloves. Cream butter and sugar, beat in the whipped eggs and spices, add the flour gradually, working it in until the dough is stiff enough to roll. Sprinkle flour over a pastry board. Make a ball of the dough, and lay it on the board. Rub the rolling-pin with flour and roll out the dough into a sheet quarter of an inch thick. Cut in round cakes, sift granulated sugar over each, and bake quickly. 314 Ginger Snaps. 2 cupfuls molasses, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful butter, 5 cupfuls flour, j;v 1 teaspoonfxil groiihrt ginger, 1 teaspoonful allspice, V- Stir molasses, sugar, and butter to- gether in a bowl set in hot water till very light. Mix in spices and flour, and roll in a thin sheet. Cut into small cakes, and bake quickly. Chocolate Dominoes. i cupful pecan meat, i cupful English-walnut meat, 4 cupful figs, i cupful dates. Grated rind 1 orange, 1 tablespoonful orange juice, 1 square Runkel's Chocolate. Mix the nuts, dates, and figs, and put them through a food chopper. Wet with the orange juice, mix in the grated rind, and roll in a ball. Lay it on the baking board, which has been covered with sifted confection- er's sugar, and roll half an inch thick. Cut into shapes the size of a domino, and spread with melted chocolate. On top lay little rounds cut from blanched almonds to imi- tate dominoes. Sour-Cream Cookies. — ■ V^^ 1 cupful sour cream, ^ 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 cupful sugar. Dash salt. Flour, i teaspoopful nutmeg. K- COOKIES, CAKES, AND DOUGHNUTS 215 Mix the ingredients with enough flour to roll. Roll thin, and bake a nice brown. Oklahoma Kocks. 2 cupfuls brown sugar, J cupful butter, 3 eggs. Salt, 1 pound chopped nuts, 1 pound raisins, 1 teaspoonful soda in J cupful boiling water, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, i teaspoonful cloves. Flour to make stiff. Mix the ingredients as given, and drop in spoonfuls on a greased baking pan. Egg .Cookies. 1 cupful sour cream, 1 cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful soda. Dash salt, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, Flour enough to make soft dough. Mix the cream, sugar, and soda with flour, a dash salt and a little vanilla, then flour enough to roll thin easily without sticking. Boston Cookies. 1 cupful butter, 14 cupfuls sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful soda, IJ teaspoonfuls hot water, 3J cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 cupful chopped walnuts, J cupful currants, J cupful seeded chopped raisins. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually and eggs well beaten. Add soda dissolved in water, half the flour mixed and sifted with salt and cinna- mon, then add nut meats, fruit, and remaining, flour. Drop by spoonfuls ari inch apart on a buttered sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. — Fannie M. Farmer. Christinas Fruit Cookies. J cupful lard, i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 2 beaten eggs, i cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful soda, i cupful currants, I cupful raisins, 3 cupfuls uncooked rolled oats. Cream the butter and lard, add the sugar, eggs, milk, flour, soda, cur- rants, raisins, and rolled oats. Mix thoroughly, drop a teaspoonful at a time in unbuttered pans, and bake in a slow oven. Chocolate Hearts. 3 ounces Runkel's Chocolate, 1 pound powdered sugar. Whites 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Melt the chocolate by standing over hot water; add the sugar, and mix thoroughly; work to a stiff paste with the unbeaten whites of eggs, then add the vanilla. If the paste seems too soft, add more sugar. Break off in small pieces and roll a quarter of an inch thick, sprinkling the board and paste with granulated sugar in- stead of flour. Cut with a heart- shaped cake cutter, and place on pans oiled just enough to prevent sticking. Bake in a moderate oven. When done, they will feel firm to the touch, a solid crust having formed over the top. They should be very light, and will loosen easily from the pan after being allowed to stand a moment to cool. Chocolate Cookies. 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful brown sugar, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, J teaspoonful cloves, 216 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 cupful almonds cut fine, with- out blanching, 1 cupful currants cleaned and dried), 2 ounces Runkel's Chocolate, i cupful milk, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Flour. Mix butter, sugar, eggs, cinnamon, cloves, almonds, currants, the choco- late dissolved in i cupful milk, and flour enough to roll; before adding the flour, put in baking powder. Mix in the order given; roll out about an eighth of an inch thick; shape with cake cutter, and bake in a moderate oven. Make a thick sirup of J cupful each granulated sugar and water boiled together, and brush the cakes with this sirup as soon as they are taken from the oven. Springerlein (German recipe). 1 cupful powdered sugar, 4 eggs. Grated rind 1 lemon, 4 cupfuls flour, i teaspoonful Calimiet baking powder. Beat the eggs thoroughly with the sugar, add the rind of lemon, flour, and baking powder sifted with the flour, and mix quickly into loaf shape without much handling. Set in a cool place two hours. Flour a baking board, roll out dough to quarter of an inch thick, dust the mold with flour, press the springerlein on it tightly but firmly, then turn it over and carefully remove the cakes. Cut off surplus dough, put in the remain- der, and mold more. Use as little flour as possible in rolling out. Put a cloth on the table, sprinkle it with aniseed, lay the cakes on it, and stand twelve hours in a cool room. Bake in buttered pans. One, Two, Three, Four Cookies. 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls flour. 4 eggs, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, i teaspoonful salt, 3 tablespoonfuls caraway seed. Cream the butter and add half the sugar. Beat the yolks, add the re- maining half of the sugar, and beat with the butter, then add the beaten whites. Mix the soda, cream of tar- tar, spice, and salt with the flour, and stir into the butter mixture. Take a teaspoonful dough, make into a ball with floured hands, place the balls in a pan, press or flatten into a round cake, and bake ten minutes. Cream Cakes. 1 cupful hot water, i teaspoonful salt, i cupful butter, IJ cupfuls flour, 5 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Boil the water, salt, and butter. When boiling, add the flour, and stir well five minutes; when cool, add the eggs. This is such a stiff mixture, many find it easier to mix with the hand, and some prefer to add the eggs whole, 1 at a time. When well mixed, drop from a tablespoonful on a buttered baking pan, some distance apart. Bake twenty to thirty min- utes, or till brown and well puffed. Split when cool, and fill with cream. Eclairs. — Bake the cream-csdse mix- ture in pieces four inches long and one and a half wide. When cool, split and fill with cream. Ice with chocolate or vanilla frosting. Cream for Cream Cakes and Eclairs. 1 pint boiled milk, 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 3 eggs 'weU beerten, I cupful sugar, 1 saltspoonful salt or 1 teaspoon- ful butter. Wet the cornstarch in fold milk, and cook in the boiling milk ten min- COOKIES, CAKES, AND DOUGHNUTS 217 utes. Beat the eggs, and add the sugar and the thickened milk. Cook in a double boiler five minutes. Add the salt or butter, and when cool, fla- vor with lemon, vanilla, or almond. Chocolate dingers. 3 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, i cupfid boiling water, 1 cupful flour. (For Icing.) 3 cupfuls granulated sugar, 1 cupful water, 3 ounces Runkel's Chocolate, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, Beat the yolks of eggs and sugar until light, add in succession the flour, water, and whites beaten until stiff. Bake in moderate oven, in an oblong sheet, about half an inch thick; cut, when done, into strips about three and a half inches wide. To make the icing, boil the sugar and water until it spins a thread, then pour in a thin stream over the chocolate, which should be melted by standing over hot water; mix well and flavor with vanilla. Let the mix- ture cool slightly, beat with a wooden spoon until it grains, then stand in a pan of boiling water and stir con- stantly untU it melts. Keep in hot water while coating the cakes. Dip each cake in the melted mixture, then in a saucer containing granulated sugar. Place, without touching each other, on a clean plate. If the choco- late mixture gets too thick, add from time to time a few drops hot water, keeping it melted during the process. Nun's Gems. 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful butter, 5 eggs, J teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, Grated rind 1 lemon, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder, 1 cupful grated cocoanut. Cream the butter and sugar, mix the beaten yolks of eggs, and add the lemon, cinnamon, and vanilla. Sift the flour and baking powder, mix with the batter, then fold in the co- coanut, and the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake half an hour in gem pans; when cool, dip each cake in white or chocolate frost- ing. Uacaroons. IJ cupfuls almond paste. Whites 2 eggs, 1 cupful powdered sugar. Mix the paste and sugar, then stir in the whites of eggs, which have been beaten stiff. Work with a spoon un- til the mixture is thoroughly blended, drop small teaspoonful paste into a pan which has been lined with but- tered paper, put half a peanut in the center of each, and bake in a moder- ate oven until delicately brown. Lift the pan from the oven, take out the paper with the macaroons, lay for a minute on a damp towel, then with a palette knife you can slip each one off. Cinnamon Strips. 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 4 eggs, J cupful shredded almonds. Grated peel 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 4 cupfuls flour. Cream the sugar and eggs till they are a light froth, add the shredded almonds, lemon peel, and spices, sift in the flour, mix to a stiff batter, roll out on a floured baking board, cut into long strips, an,d bake until brown. Chocolate Strips. J cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, $ eggs, 218 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK IJ squares Runkel's Chocolate, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, IJ cupfuls flour. Cream the butter, sugar, and eggs, add the chocolate and vanilla, then the flour, beat thoroughly, pour into a, shallow pan in a thin layer. Bake quickly, brush with white of egg, and dust with powdered sugar; while hot, cut into narrow strips. 1 cupful currants, 1 cupful raisins, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 nutmeg. Soak apples in as little water as possible over night; in the morning chop fine and boil half an hour in molasses. When cold, add butter, sug- ar and milk dissolved with soda, eggs, flour, fruit, and spices. Bake in a slow oven. CAKES MADE rBOM SOVB MILE Mrs. Moherly's Sour-Cream Cake. 1 cupful sugar, 3 eggs, 1 cupful sour cream, i teaspoonful soda, 3 cupfuls flour, IJ teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful lemon extract. Beat sugar, egg yolks, and cream very light; sift in flour, soda, and bak- ing powder. Flavor, add whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth in a, loaf cake. Cocoa Cake. J cupful butter, 3 cupfuls coffee sugar, 3 eggs, 1 cupful sour milk, 1 scant teaspoonful Calumet beik- ing soda, 3 cupfuls flour, J cupful Runkel's Cocoa. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream,, then add the other ingredients. Bake in a moderate oven. Cover with chocolate icing. Dried-Apple Cake. 3 cupfuls molasses, 3 cupfuls dried apples, 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful sour milk, 1 teaspoonful soda, 4 eggs, 4 cupfuls flour. Spice Cake. 1 cupful sugar, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls butter, J cupful sour milk, i cupful strong coffee, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder, 3i cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful nutmeg. Cream sugar and butter, and add the milk, coffee, soda, baking pow- der, flour, spice, cinnamon, and nut- meg. Bake in a medium-sized pan, and frost with powdered sugar mixed with cream. Devil's Cake. 3 cupfuls dark-brown sugar, i cupful butter, J cupful sour milk, i teaspoonful soda, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder, 3 eggs, J cupful Runkel's Chocolate, ground. Beat the butter and sugar until smooth. Add the milk, soda dissolved in a little warm water, then the flour, which has been sifted twice vpith the baking powder. Add the eggs well beaten. Stir thoroughly and add the chocolate. This makes three good- sized layers. Filling — 3 cupfuls brown sugar, J cupful butter, J cup- COOKIES, CAKES, AND DOUGHNUTS 219 ful sweet milk. Boil until it will thread, and spread between layers. If a very large cake is desired, two white layers may be added flavored with orange. Training-Day Ginger Cake. i cupful butter, 1 cupful granulated sugar, 1 egg. 1 cupful New Orleans molasses, 1 cupful sour milk, 1 teaspoonful soda, 3 cupfuls pastry flour, 1 tablespoonful ginger. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar and egg well beaten, the mo- lasses, then the sour milk, to which the soda has been added and both stirred until the milk foams and there are no lumps remaining. Sift the flour and ginger, beat thoroughly, and turn into a shallow baking pan. Bake in a moderate oven; when it is well done, remove from the oven and spread with a thick layer of raw mo- lasses. Return to the oven for a short time till the coating of the mo- lasses has set, when the cake may be cut into squares. Crnml} Gingerbread. 1 teaspoonful soda, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful butter, 2 cjipfuls sugar, 1 cupful sour milk, "^ 3 eggs, i grated nutmeg, i teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful ginger. Rub the flour and butter together until they are reduced to crumbs, as flour and lard are worked together for pie crust; then add the sugar and stir this in till the mixture is once more crumbly. Measure out 3 cup- fuls crumbs, and set away in a cold place until the batter is made. Into what remains of the crumbs stir in two weU-beaten eggs, and add the sour milk and soda. When the soda is dissolved and the milk foams, turn it into the mixing bowl with the rest. Add to the batter the nutmeg, cinna- mon, and ginger. Butter a dripping pan and measure out 1 cupful crumbs that was set aside; spread evenly on the bottom of* the pan, pour the bat- ter over them as evenly as possible; spread the rest of the crumbs on top, and bake in a moderately hot oven; when done, cut into squares, and keep in a closely covered jar. Aunt Dinah's Gake. J cupfu} butter, i cupful sugar, 4 cupful molasses, 3 cupfuls flour, i cupful sour milk, J teaspoonful ginger, J teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, i teaspoonful soda, J nutmeg grated. Juice and rind J lemon, 1 egg- Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the spices, lemon, and mo- lasses. Dissolve liie soda in 1 table- spoonful cold water, and stir into the sour milk. Add this and the egg well beaten, then the flour, and beat brisk- ly. Pour into a weU-buttered pan, and bake in a moderate oven fifty minutes. This cake will keep moist some time. One half cupful stoned raisins and J cupful currants may be stirred lightly into the batter j ust be- fore it is put in the pan, if you wish a fruit cake. Blackberry-Jam Cake. i cupful butter, § cupful sugar, 1 cupful flour, § cupful stoned raisins, g cupful blackberry jam, 2 tablespoonfuls sour cream or milk, i teaspoonful soda, J nutmeg grated, 3 eggs. Beat the butter to a cream, then beat in the sugar. When very light. 220 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK beat in the jam and nutmeg. Dis- solve the soda in 1 tablespoonful cold water, and add it to the sour cream. Add this and the egg well beaten to the other ingredients. Now add the flour and beat for half a minute. Sprinkle a tablespoonful flour over the raisins, and stir them in lightly. Pour the batter into a well-buttei'ed pan, and bake fifty minutes. This a, Dover Egg-beater; b, Grater; c. Omelet Pan. makes one small loaf. This cake may be put away to be used as a pudding when convenient. Steam it an hour, and serve with a wine sauce. It is almost as good as a, plum pudding. Maple-Sugar Gingerbread. 1 egg, 1 cupful thick maple sirup, 2 cupfuls flour, i cupful sour milk, J cupful butter, i teaspoonful ginger, i teaspoonful soda, i teaspoonful salt. Rind and juice J lemon. Beat the butter to a. cream, and add the sirup and flavoring. Dissolve the soda in 1 tablespoonful cold water and stir into the sour milk. Add this and the egg well beaten to the other ingredients, then the flour. Beat well; pour into a buttered pan. This quan- tity will make one small loaf or a thin sheet. If baked in a loaf, leave in oven fifty minutes; if in a sheet, twenty-five minutes. — Miss Fabloa. Holiday Cake. 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful molasses, J teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful mixed spices, 1 egg, 1 cupful sour milk, 1 teaspoonful soda. Flour, 1 cupful raisins and currants. Small quantity citron. Mix together the butter, sugar, mo- lasses, salt, spices, and egg; beat well, then add the sour milk with the soda stirred in, and flour enough to make quite thick; add the raisins, currants, and citron. This makes two medium loaves, and will keep for weeks. Uarble Layer Cake. J cake Runkel's Chocolate, 1 teaspoonful baking soda, i cupful warm water, 3 cupfuls maple sugar, S eggs, 4 cupful butter, 1 cupful sour milk, 2J cupfuls flour. Melt the chocolate over hot water, dissolve the soda in the warm water; beat the butter to a cream. Add the eggs beaten without separating, and beat in gradually the sugar — ^beat for at least ten minutes. Pour the soda and water in the sour milk; add this with the melted chocolate to the egg mixture; now stir jn the flour. Beat and bake in three layers. When cold, put together with maple or caramel filling. CHAPTER XXXIV CAKE If one has mastered the art of measuring, mixing, and baking cake, there are only four cakes you have to know: sponge, butter, fruit, and raised cake. Every other cake among a hundred recipes belongs to one of these classes; there is only a slight variation In its being richer or plainer, differently fla- vored, or differently named. When children are taught cake making in a cooking school, the teacher tabulates for them on a blackboard quantities and directions, something after the fashion illustrated here: One of the most important things to learn about cake making is to have all the utensils and ingredients on hand before you begin work. The cake process will not wait, if you have to search for things. A half-beaten batter will fall flat before you are ready to attend to it again. Make up the fire so the oven will carry you through the baking process for at least an hour. Have the flour sifted, pans greased and floured, the eggs separated, and everything ready to work with. Let us think of the uten- sUs which to-day an up-to-date cook- Name op Caeb. But- ter. Sugar, Eggs. Milk. Flour Soda or Baking Powder Flavor- ing. Mo- lasses. Fruit. Loaf or Lay- er Butter i cup- 2 cup- 4 1 cup- 3i cup- 5 teaspoon- 1 teaspoon- Cake ful. fuls. ful. ' fuls. fuls baking powder. ful vanilla. Sponge Cake 'IT 4 1 cup- ful. 1 table- spoonful lemon juice Dark Fruit i cup- i cup- 2 } cup- 2 cup- i teaspoon- 1 teaspoon- i cup- i cupful Cake ful. ful, brown sugar. ful. tuls. ful soda. ful cinna- mon; J tea- spoonful all-spice; ful. raisins: i cupful currants; i cupful i teaspoon- citron. ful mace; i teaspoon- ful cloves; J teaspoon- ful lemon extract. It seems such an excellent method, that I printed for my own kitchen a, large card holding our favorite rec- ipes, and it has saved maids, as well as myself, much time in looking up recipes. I left some space at the bottom, and occasionally add to it new and good ones. ing school demands for cake making. There is a bowl for beating the bat- ter. I prefer the white enamel bowl to one made of earthenware, partly because it is light enough to handle easily, then it is unbreakable, and it can be kept beautifully clean. This bowl must be deep and narrow enough m MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK at the bottom to allow the spoon to turn over the ingredients and do its work thoroughly. The ideal cake- mixing spoon is a wooden one with a slitted bowl, just long enough for the top of the handle to reach your el- bow. The old-fashioned spoon col- lects butter and sugar in a lump, while a slitted spoon constantly drives the creamed mass through it, and that, of course, makes it lighter. The slitted spoon beats without any noise, and leaves no black marks on the bowl. Then for the other utensils, you need a good flour sifter, cake pans which have been used long enough to become rather black — for new tin will never make a good crust — two glass measuring cups, a small bowl, a Dover egg beater with which to beat the yolks of eggs, a large pliable Teller knife, a flat wire egg whipper, which is called the Daisy beater, and a wire cake cooler, with feet which raise it high enough for the air to cir- culate around the cake and carry off the steam. The only way always to have a good cake is to stick to the level measurements, as is taught to-day in all the leading cooking schools. Flour, sugar, butter, indeed every in- gredient, is leveled off perfectly flat with the Teller knife. Grease your cake tin with lard or olive oil, using a butter brush (butter is not satis- factory for this, as it blackens the crust), then sprinkle flour inside the tin. Jar the pan lightly on the ta- ble, tipping it around so the flour will adhere to the greased surface. This gives a perfectly even surface to the bottom of the cake. If you wish to line the tin with paper, use parch- ment paper, which comes by the roll. Lay the tin upon it, top down, mark around with a pencil, then cut it an inch or two large^ Fringe the paper with a scissors down to the pencil line, and slip into a greased pan. Pa- per is frequently used with a fruit cake, because that cake burns more readily than any other. By using it for other cakes, you can get a nice, smooth surface for icing. Before we begin the process of cake mixing, let us see what makes a cake light. Compared with the mak- ing of bread, cake raising is a swift process. It is brought about partly by blending an acid with an alkali. Air bubbles are created that make the mixture frothy before it is poured into the pans; heat begins to expand the bubbles and later to set them. Eggs thoroughly well beaten add further to the lightness of cake, for air is entangled liberally when the albumen is whipped. According to what other ingre- dients are used in a cake, we add bak- ing powder, soda, and cream of tar- tar, or soda alone for the raising power. Baking powder is simply a scientific mixture of cream of tartar and soda with the addition of a little flour to preserve it from getting lumpy. It must always be used with sweet milk. The same combination, of course, is made with cream of tar- tar and soda, the formula general- ly given in older cookbooks. Soda alone is used when there is some powerful acid in the liquid, such as sour milk or molasses. If one has nothing but sweet milk on hand and no cream of tartar, the soda will do its work almost as well by add- ing a, small quantity of vinegar or lemon juice. It is never economy to use poor in- gredients in cake. Strong butter and eggs that are not absolutely fresh cannot have their flavor concealed by the most liberal addition of vanilla. Also, when you possibly can, use pas- try flour. You can easily tell the dif- ference between it and the flour with which we make bread, by gathering up a handful. It will stick togfether in a lump within your hand, while bread flour falls apart. Bread flour may be used in a contingency, but af- ter measuring it, take out 2 level ta- blespoonfuls from each cupful as your batter is liable to be too thick, and the cake may crack as soon as it be- gins to crust. Now for the simplest form of cake — a good sponge cake. Separate the CAKE 223 eggs, drop the yolks into a mixing bowl, and the whites upon a large platter. If the eggs have been kept in a refrigerator or cold pantry, they will froth much more quickly. With the wooden spoon, beat the yolks steadily till they begin to grow thick and lemon-colored, adding gradually 1 cupful sugar. Put in 1 tablespoon- ful lemon juice and the grated rind of i lemon, then 1 cupful sifted flour with J teaspoonful salt in it. This amount of salt ought to be added to every cake. It overcomes the flat taste which it would otherwise have. Beat the batter thoroughly, till it is bubbly and well mixed. If an assist- ant, meantime, has been whipping the whites of eggs for you, so much the better. A Dover egg beater does not begin to achieve the amount of frothy white you can get by whipping with d Daisy egg beater. Tip the platter slightly downward as it begins to froth. Swing the arm upward and downward; turn over the mass of froth, which wiU grow larger every second. When the latter is fairly heaped and every foam speck has a dry appearance, it is ready to add to the batter. Scrape it with a Teller knife and with this useful utensil, cut the froth in, across this way and that, lifting it lightly, until it is thorough- ly blended and looks like delicate foam. If it should be beaten at this point, you will simply destroy all the bubbles of albi^men you achieved by the whipping process. Scrape every particle of cake batter with the knife cleanly from the bowl into a cake pan, preferably a deep one. Let the mix- ture rise a little higher on the sides than in the middle, then set to bake in a slow oven. The first process in baking is to get a cake thoroughly heated through, during which time it ought to rise steadily without crusting. When it has been half an hour in the oven, the rising process should have finished and a delicate crust have begun to form on top. The last half hour is given to its becoming solid, brown, and crusty. I'udge Cake. (An original recipe from the Copper Kettle Lunch Room at Smith Col- lege.) 1 cupful sugar, i cupful butter, 3 eggs, i cupful milk, IJ cupfuls flour, 3J teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 2 ounces melted chocolate. Cream together the butter and sug- ar, add the beaten yolks of eggs, then the mUk and flour sifted with the baking powder. Beat well, add chocolate and the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a shallow pan in a moderate oven. When cool, pour over it a fudge frosting and mark in squares before the frosting has hardened. Fudge Frosting. 3 cupfuls sugar, i cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, f cupful Runkel's Chocolate, grated, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 1 cupful chopped walnuts. Put the sugar, milk, butter, and chocolate into a granite saucepan and stir occasionally \ till the mixture reaches the boiling point. Boil with- out stirring eight minutes, then take from the fire and beat till creamy. At this point add the nuts and va- nilla, then pour over the cake. This recipe makes a delicious fudge. Feather Cake. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful sugar, li cupfuls flour, 3J teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 eggs, i cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Put butter in mixing bowl, work it with a spoon till creamy, add sugar gradually, and continue creaming. Sift flour and baking powder to- gether; separate yolks of eggs from whites, beat yolks till light-colored and thick, then add milk and egg mixture to creamed butter and sugar, alternately with flour. Add flavoring, stir and beat well; lastly add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Put in a shal- low greased and floured pan, or one lined with buttered paper. Bake about thirty minutes or till cake shrinks from the pan, and does not stick when tried with a straw. The feather cake may be varied and made into a number of different kinds, for instance : Spice Cake. — Before adding the beaten whites, put in i cupful seeded raisins that have been washed, dried, cut in halves, and rolled in a. little of the flour reserved for the purpose. Flavor with J teaspoonful ground cloves, i teaspoonful cinnamon, and a grating nutmeg instead of vanilla. Karble Cake. — Color half the feather-cake mixture with i table- spoonful Runkel's Chocolate melted. Mix the white and dark part when putting it in the pan, so they will be well mingled though distinct. Bibbon Cake. — To one third the feather-cake mixture add i teaspoon- ful mixed spi.ces and J cupful seeded raisins cut in pieces. Bake in a shal- low pan, and the rerhainder in two other shallow pans. When done, put the fruit cake between the others with a layer of jelly or frosting be- tween. Layer Cake. — Bake feather-cake mixture in round tins and put a cream, chocolate, or other filling be- tween. Nursery Cake. 3 tablespoonfuls butter, I cupful sugar, 1 egg, 1 cupful cold water, 2 cupfuls flour. 4 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Cream the butter, add half the sug- ar, and continue creaming. Beat egg till light and add with the water and rest of the sugar to the creamed but- ter. Add flour mixed with baking powder. Flavor, beat well, and bake in a shallow pan about half an hour. Surprise Cake. 4 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 egg, 1 cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Mix carefully, and bake like nur- sery cake. 7Iain Wedding Cake. i cupful butter, IJ cupfuls sugar. Yolks 3 eggs, i cupful milk, 2J cupfuls flour, 3J teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, J teaspoonful ground cloves, i teaspoonful grated nutmeg, J teaspoonful powdered mace, i cupful seeded raisins washed, dried, and cut in pieces, I cupful currants washed, ^nd dried, i pound citron cut in small, thin pieces. Whites 3 eggs. Roll fruit in J cupful flour, and sift the rest with baking powder and spices. Mix like feather cake, adding the floured fruit just before tlie stiffly beaten whites of eggs. Bake in a thick loaf, in a moderate oven. Cover with a plain, wliite icing. CAKE 225 Lemon Sponge Cake. Yolks 3 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, I cupful hot water, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Grated rind 1 lemon, 1 cupful flour, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, i teaspoonful salt. Whites 2 eggs. Beat yolks till light-colored and thick, add half the sugar gradually, and continue beating; then the hot water, the. rest of the sugar, the lemon juice and rind. Beat well, add flour, mixed with baking powder and salt; lastly cut and fold in the stiffly beat- en whites of eggs. Put in shallow greased and floured pan, and bake in a moderately hot oven twenty-five minutes. Chocolate Cake. 1 cupful sugar, i cupful butter, 2 eggs, i cupful milk, IJ cupfuls flour, 2J teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, , 2 squares Rimkel's Chocolate, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, Dash salt. Beat the butter and sugar together to a cream, add the yolks of eggs which have been well beaten, then the milk, the flour sifted with the baking powder and salt. Beat till light and frothy, add the vanilla and melted chocolate, last the whites of eggs whipped stifl'. Bake in a long narrow pan, and when cool, cover with a white frosting. Chocolate Layer Cake. J cupfuls sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 egg. i cupful milk, IJ cupfuls flour. 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Dash salt, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Cream the butter arid sugar to- gether, add the egg beaten to a froth, then the milk, flour sifted with bak- ing powder, and vanilla. Bake in one deep layer cake tin; when the cake is cool, split in two shortcake fashion, and cover the smooth top of each layer with a chocolate frosting. Cocoa Sponge. i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 3 eggs, i cupful Runkel's Cocoa, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, i teaspoonftil cloves, J cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the cocoa, the yolks of eggs well beaten, cinnamon, cloves, and milk, then the flour sifted with the baking powder; last add the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven. Devil's Tood. 2 cupfuls sugar, J cupful butter, 4 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 2J cupfuls flour, i teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 2 squares Runkel's Chocolate, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the well-beaten yolks of eggs, then alternately mix with milk and flour sifted with the baking pow- der, stir in the melted chocolate and vanilla, then the whites of eggs, whip to a dry froth. Bake fifty minutes MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in a long narrow pan. Cover with a boiled white icing. Chocolate Marshmallow Cake. Use the recipe given either for chocolate cafe, devil's food, or cocoa sponge, and bake in a shallow pan, letting the batter half fiU. It ought to rise to the top of the pan. As soon as the hot cake is taken from the oven, turn it out and cov^r the top with marshmallows, which have been pulled apart; the soft inside of the sweetmeats will run together into a sort of frosting. When cool, pour over them a frosting made of Run- kel's Sweet Chocolate melted over hot water. Spanish Cake. 1 cupful sugar, J cupful butter, 2 eggs, J cupful milk. If cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calimiet baking powder. Dash salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the yolks of eggs, then the flour, with which has been sifted cinnamon, salt, and baking powder, alternating with it the milk; the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth may be added the last thing. Bake in a large shal- low pan and cover the top with cara- mel frosting. CofFee Cake. 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls molasses, IJ cupfuls cold coffee, 3i cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, i teaspoonful cloves, J teaspoonful nutmeg, i teaspoonful allspice, S teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, I cupful raisins, i cupful currants, J cupful citron, 5 eggs. Cream the butter and sugar, add the molasses and well-beaten yolks of eggs, then sift together the flour, spices, and baking powder. Beat in alternately with the coffee. Dredge the fruit with flour, stir it in, then the whites of eggs. Pour into deep cake tins and bake slowly in a mod- erate oven. Foiind Cake. 3 cupfuls butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 10 eggs, 4 cupfuls flour, § teaspoonful mace, 3 tablespoonfuls milk. Cream the butter and sugar, add the yolks of eggs beaten till thick, then the milk, flour, and whites of eggs. Pour into a square tin and bake an hour. Angel Cake. 1 cupful whites of eggs. Dash salt, 1 cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful almond extract, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, 1 cupful flour, 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Whip the whites of eggs on a large platter until they become a heap of dry froth. Then blend the sugar with them very carefully so the bub- bles will not break. Sift the flour and cream of tartar three times and add to the egg mixture, stirring as little as possible, so as to keep it very frothy. Add the flavoring, pour into an unbuttered pan with a center tube, and bake forty minutes in a moder- ate oven. Do not move the cake un- til you are ready to take it from the oven, as it is very easy to make it fall. Invert the pan on a cake cooler and brush the cake with the white of egg beaten with a few tablespoonfuls CAKE m powdered sugar. Allow this covering to harden before you frost it. Sunshine Cake. Yolks 5 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, Dash salt, I cupful flour, J teaspoonful cream of tartar, Whites 7 eggs, 1 lump sugar, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful orange juice. Beat the yolks of eggs till thick and lemon-colored, and add the sug- ar and flour, sifted with the cream of tartar and salt. Rub the lump of sugar over the rind of lemon, then dissolve it in the fruit juice; this con- stitutes the flavoring which may be stirred in and followed by the whites of eggs whipped to a dry froth. Bake the cake in a deep pan. New England Raspberry Cake. J cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar. Yolks 2 eggs, § cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. This old-fashioned, delicious cake is baked in layers. Mix the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks of eggs well beaten and the milk ; then stir in the flour, in which has been sifted the baking powder. Bake in jelly-cake pans. For the filling, crush slightly 1 quart raspberries, add whites 3 eggs, 1 cupful pow- dered sugar, and a few drops lemon juice. Whip until thick; spread be- tween layers and over the top. To be eaten with cream. Lady Baltimore Cake. 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls powdered sugar, 1 cupful milk, Juice 1 lemon. Whites 6 eggs. 4 cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the milk; when well mixed, stir in the juice of the lemon and whip very light; stir in alter- nately the stiffened whites of eggs and flour, sifted with the baking powder. Bake in jelly-tins. When cold, put together with this filling, and frost the top: Boil 3 cupfuls granulated sugar with a J cupful water until a drop hanging from the tip of a spoon threads in the air. Pour while hot over the whites 3 eggs whipped to a standing froth. Whip until you have a thick cream and stir in gradually a cupful each minced rai- sins and chopped pecans with S figs that have been soaked soft in luke- warm water, then dried and minced. Cocoanut Cake. 1 cupful sugar, i cupful butter, f cupful milk, 3 eggs, 2J cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 grated cocoanut. Cream the sugar and butter; take the milk of the cocoanut and, if not enough, add sweet milk to make | cupful. Add the beaten yolks, then floiir and baking powder sifted, then beaten whites, and lastly the grated cocoanut, reserving some for the frost- ing of the loaf. This is to be baked in a deep tin. Orange Cake. 2 cupfuls sugar, J cupful butter, J cupful cold water, Yolks 5 eggs, 2J cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Juice and rind 1 orange. Whites 3 eggs. Bake in layers; use boiled icing flavored with orange juice. MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Gingerbread with Chocolate Glaze. I cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful dark molasses, 1 cupful black coffee, 1 teaspoonful ginger, i teaspoonful cloves, 1 teaspoonfiil bicarbonate of soda, 3 eggs. Mix the spices with the molasses. Dissolve the soda in a little boiling water and add to the coffee. Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs, one at a time, and beat each one well. Add the molasses, then the coffee and flour, a little at a time, alternately. Bake in bread tins in a moderate oven forty to sixty minutes, or until the cake leaves the sides of the pans. Gingerbread -with Whipped Cream. Use the gingerbread recipe given above, substituting a cupful boiling water for the coffee and using half butter and half lard; or 2 cupfuls molasses may be used, and the sugar omitted. In the latter case 2 tea- spoonfuls soda instead of one should be dissolved in a cupful boiling wa- ter. Serve the cake very fresh, and cover the top just before serving with whipped cream. The cake may be broken into squares, and the pieces fitted together and covered entirely with whipped cream. It can then be served as a dessert. — Mabt Ronald. Quick Cake. J cupful soft butter, IJ cupfuls brown sugar, 2 eggs, i cupful milk. If cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, i teaspoonful cinnamon, J teaspoonful grated nutmeg, J pound dates stoned and cut in pieces. Put ingredients in a bowl and beat all together for three minutes, using a wooden cake spoon. Bake in a but- tered and floured cake pan thirty-five to forty minutes. If directions are followed, this makes a most satisfac- tory cake; but if the ingredients are added separately, it will not prove a success. — Fannie M. Fakmee. Black Angel Cake. 1 cupful Runkel's Chocolate grated, i cupful milk, 2 cupfuls brown sugar. Yolk 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- ican Vanilla, J cupful butter, 2 cupfuls flour, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Stir together in a saucepan the grated chocolate, milk, 1 cupful sug- ar, yolk 1 egg, and teaspoonful va- nilla; cook slowly and cool. Take 1 cupful sugar, the butter, flour, milk, 2 eggs— cream butter and sugar with yolks of eggs; add milk, sifted flour, whites of eggs beaten stiff, beat to- gether, then stir in the custard, lastly add the soda, dissolved in warm wa- ter. This cake will keep a long time. Another way is to bake in layers with the following filling: One cupful brown sugar, 1 cupful white sugar, 1 cupful water, 1 tablespoonful vine- gar. BoU until like candy, then stir in beaten whites 2 eggs and J pound marshmallows, boil again and place on cake, letting each layer cool before adding another. Fork Cake. 1 pound salt pork, 2 cupfuls boiling water, 2 cupfuls dark-brown sugar, 1 cupful molasses, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 pound raisins, 1 pound chopped dates, i pound citron shaved fine, 4 cupfiils flour, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 1 teaspoonful allspice, 1 teaspoonful nutmeg. CAKE Chop the pork so fine as to look al- most like lard, pour on it the boiling water, add the sugar, molasses, and soda, stir in the raisins, dates, and citron. Add the flour with the spices, pour the batter in loaf-cake pan, and bake in a moderate oven. Apple Sauce Cake. 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, * eggs, 3 cupfuls flour, 1^ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 1 cupful milk, 6 apples, 6 ounces sugar, 1 teaspoonful butter. Rub butter and sugar to a cream, add 3 eggs at a time, beating hard. Sift flour and baking powder to- gether, add with milk, and mix into a batter. Bake in jelly-cake tins. Have apples peeled and sliced, and put on fire with sugar; when tender, rub through fine sieve, and add butter. When cold, use to spread between layers. Cover cake plentifully with sugar sifted over top. Banana Cake. i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, i cupful milk, 2 scant cupfuls flour, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Whites 4 eggs, i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Mix flour and baking powder. Cream butter and sugar, add milk and flour alternately, then vanilla and beaten whites. Bake in 3 layer tins in hot oven. To boiled icing add i cupful finely sliced bananas and use as filling. Dust top with powdered sugar. Geranium Cake. i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar. § cupful water, i teaspoonful salt, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. Whites 4 eggs. Mix flour, salt, and baking powder. Cream butter and sugar, add alter- nately the water and flour, then whites of eggs, and whip hard five minutes. Line loaf pan with buttered paper, and rose-geranium leaves. Bake in a moderate oven. The leaves can.be pulled off with the paper. Lemon Queen Cake. 3 cupfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful butter, 8 eggs, 2 lemons, i teaspoonful soda, J teaspoonful salt. Mix salt and soda with flour. Beat butter to a light cream, and add lemon rind. Beat half the sugar into it. Beat yolks of eggs, then whites, then both together. Add sugar to the eggs and beat well. Put in lemon juice last. Bake in small cake tins. White Fruit Cake. i cupful butter, IJ cupfuls sugar, 3 eggs, 2J cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, J cupful sweet cream, IJ pounds raisins, 1 pound currants, 4 cupful citron, J cupful orange peel, i teaspoonful nutmeg. Dash salt. Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten egg yolks, then alternately the cream and flour sifted with bak- ing powder. Stir in the fruit, which has been dredged with flour, also the nutmeg, last of all the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in deep pans lined with parafBn paper. 230 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Walnut Mocha Cake. i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, i cupful cold coffee. If cupfuls flour, 2i teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Whites 3 eggs, 1 cupful broken walnut meats. Cream the butter and sugar, mix alternately the cold coffee and flour sifted with the baking powder, then stir in the walnut meats and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Bake in a deep pan and cover with White-Mountain Frosting, garnished with half walnuts. Cider Cake. S cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful butter, 3 eggs, 1 cupful cider, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 1 teaspoonful soda. Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the yolks of eggs, sift together the flour, soda, and spice, and mix al- ternately with the cider; last add the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. ITeapolitan Cake. 2 cupfuls" sugar, 1 cupful butter, 3 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 3 cupfuls flour, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Make this cake exactly after the di- rections given for other cakes, then divide the batter into 3 equal parts. Color one third brown with a square of Runkel's Chocolate melted, another part pink with a morsel of pink col- oring paste dissolved in i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Vanilla, leave the third part uncolored; pour each portion into a layer-cake tin and bake in a moderate oven. Lay on a platter first the white cake, then the choco- late, then the pink, putting each one together with White-Mountain Frost- ing; cover the top thickly with the same icing. Citron Cake. i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 3 eggs, i cupful milk, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful citron, IJ teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten egg yolks, then the flour sifted with the baking powder, al- ternately with the milk. Whip the whites of eggs to a dry froth, blend into the cake batter, add the finely shaved citron, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. Huckleberry Cake. i cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 3 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 2 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful huckleberries. Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten eggs, milk and flour sifted with the baking powder. Stir in a cupful huckleberries dredged with flour, and bake in a moderate oven in a deep cake pan. This cake may be eaten cut in slices or served hot as a dessert with vanilla sauce. Cocoanut-and-Citron Cake. J cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 3 eggs, IJ cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, J cupful milk. Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten egg yolks, then the milk CAKE 231 with the flour and baking powder; last of all stir in the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake the cake in two layers. Prepare the frost- ing after this fashion: Whip i pint double cream till stiff, blend with J cupful powdered sugar and stir in 3 cupfuls finely grated cocoanut. Spread between the cake, also on top, scattering it with shaved citron. This cake must be eaten soon after it is made, else it becomes sour and soggy. Gold Cake. J cupful butter, i cupful sugar. Yolks S eggs, 1 teaspoonful orange extract, J cupful flour, IJ teaspoon fuls Calumet baking powder, i cupful milk. Cream the butter, add sugar slow- ly, and continue beating. Add the yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, and the orange ex- tract. Mix and sift the flour with the baking powder, and add alter- nately with milk to the first mixture. Bake in a buttered and floured tin. Hickory Cake. 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful cold water. Yolks 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful ground mace and cinnamon mixed, 2 teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder, 3 cupfuls flour, 2 cupfuls hickory-nut kernels. Cream the butter with the sugar, add the cold water, well beaten yolks of eggs, mace, and cinnamon, baking powder and flour, stirred in alter- nately with the stiffened whites of eggs. Add the nuts, thoroughly dredged with flour. Stir in quickly, and turn into a loaf tin. Bake in a steady oven, covering the cake with brown paper for the first half hour it is in the oven. When cold, turn out, and cover with a plain icing. Arrange half kernels of hickory nuts at regu- lar intervals on top of the icing, Ground-Bice Cake. Yolks 12 eggs, Whites 6 eggs, Grated peel 2 lemons, 2 cupfuls ground rice, 2 cupfuls flour, 2 cupfuls sugar. Beat the yolks and whites of eggs with the lemon, mix in the rice, flour, sugar;' beat up with the eggs, using a wooden spoon; butter a pan, and bake in a moderate oven half an hour. a. Ham Boiler; b. Fish Kettle with Removable Tray. Jelly Boll. 3 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, J teaspoonful milk, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, J teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful flour, 1 tablespoonful melted butter. Beat eggs until light, add sugar gradually, milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt, then butter. Line the bottom of a dripping pan with paper; butter pa- per and sides of pan. Cover bottom of pan with mixture, and spread evenly. Bake twelve minutes in a moderate oven. Take from oven and turn on n, paper sprinkled with pow- dered sugar. Quickly remove paper. 232 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK and cut off a thin strip from sides and ends of cake. Spread with jelly or jam which has been beaten to con- sistency to spread easily, and roll. After cake has been rolled, wrap paper around cake that it may better keep in shape. The work must be done quickly, or cake will crack in rolling. Homemade Wedding Cake. 2 cupfuls butter, 2 cupfuls light-brown sugar, 12 eggs, 1 cupful molasses, 4 cupfuls flour, li teaspoonfuls mace, 4 teaspoonfuls allspice, 4 teaspoonfuls cinnamon, 1 grated nutmeg, i teaspoonful soda, 3 pounds raisins, IJ pounds citron, 3 pounds sultana raisins, 1 pound currants, J candied lemon peel, ^ candied orange peel, 4 squares Runkel's Chocolate, 1 tablespoonful hot water, 1 cupful milk. Before beginning to make the cake, prepare the fruit required, seed the raisins and cut them into halves with a, scissors. Shave the citron, orange, and lemon peel into thin strips. Dredge them with flour, and set the chocolate to melt over boiling water. Sift together the flour, spices, and soda, and separate the eggs. Cream the butter and sugar very light, add the yolks of eggs beaten till stiff and lemon-colored, stir in the mo- lasses, then the milk. Sift in the flour and spices, beat thoroughly, add the fruit, melted chocolate, whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and the soda dissolved in hot water. Pour into a large round pan, which has been lined with paraffin paper and steam four hours. An excellent meth- od to thoroughly cook such a large, rich cake as this to the heart is to steam it for an hour, then set into the fireless cooker, and leave it there over night. The saucepan which fits into the United States Cooker is al- most the size to contain this recipe, and the cake could be baked right in it. When the steaming process is fin- ished, the cake needs drying. Take off the lid, and leave it imcovered an hour or two in an oven which is merely warm. Turn out on a cake cooler, and when cold, ice with White Mountain Frosting. Chocolate Snow Cake. J cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, J cupful milk, Ig cupfuls flour. Si teaspoonfuls Calumet baking powder. Whites 2 eggs, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Cream the butter and sugar, add the milk alternately with the flour and baking powder sifted together. Flavor with vanilla, and cut in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in layer tins. Fill with choco- late filling, and cover with chocolate frosting. CAKES RAISED BY YEAST Old-Fashioned B.aised Cake. i pound currants, 6 cupfuls flour, 2 cupfuls warm milk, J yeast cake, 1 teaspoonful salt, J cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sifted brown sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful mixed spice, 1 cupful raisins. Mix salt with half the flour; add yeast, then gradually warm milk, beating to a batter, and set to rise over night. In the morning cream the butter and sugar, add also spice and beaten eggs to the risen batter, put in the remainder of the flour, gradually mixing thoroughly with the hand. Add fruit last. Let it rise CAKE 233 until perfectly light. Scrape down and stir J All pans two thirds full; let stand in a warm place. It will not rise perceptibly in the pans, but the process wUl have begun afresh in them and will complete in the baking. Bake an hour or more. Loaf Cake without Eggs. 2 cupfuls warm milk, 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 cake yeast, 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful lard. Raisins, Spices, 1 teaspoonful Calumet baking powder. Flour. Dissolve the yeast in a cupful wa- ter, add to the milk and 1 cupful sug- ar; make a stiff batter and let it rise over night; then add the rest of the sugar, butter, and lard; also raisins and spices and the baking powder. Let it rise again before baking. Long Ileadow Loaf Cake. 5 cupfuls sugar, li cupfuls butter, 1 cupful lard, i cupfuls warm milk, 1 yeast cake. Whites 4 eggs. Flour, I teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful soda, li pounds raisins, i pound citron. Cream the sugar, butter, and lard. Mix thoroughly, divide, and to the smaller part of this mixture add the warm milk, yeast dissolved in the milk, and flour enough to make a batter which will be hard to stir with a spoon. Let it rise over night in a warm place. In the morning add the rest of the sugar and shortening, the whites of eggs, nutmeg, and soda. Let it rise again till light — ^it may take four hours — ^then add the rai- sins and citron. When risen the last time, bake slowly an hour. — ^Mes. E, Bbewsb. English Whigs. J cupful butter, 6 cupfuls flour, 3 eggs, i yeast cake, 3 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful sugar, i pound currants. Rub the butter into the flour, beat the eggs with the yeast, the batter, and add the milk; beat all until smooth, cover the batter and let it stand three hours; then stir in the sugar and currants. Allow it to stand an hour, then pour in small tins, fill half full, and stand till risen. A quarter of an hour in a quick oven is sufficient to bake them. Irish Barn Bake. 2 cupfuls bread dough, 2 ounces caraway seed, 1 cupful sugar, 4 eggs, i cupful butter. Add as much flour to the dough as will make it a fit consistency to mold. Shape into loaves, let them rise, and bake. Yorkshire Cake. 3 pounds flour, IJ pints warm milk, 6 ounces butter, 1 yeast cake, 3 eggs. Beat the flour, milk, yeast cake, and eggs well together, and let it rise; then form the cakes round; place them on the baking tins and let them rise again before putting them in the oven, which must be of a moderate heat. The butter may be warmed with the milk and added. CHAPTER XXXV CAKE FILLINGS AND ICINGS Whipped-Cream Filling. Pour a cupful double cream into a bowl and whip with a Dover egg beater tiU stiff. Stop as soon as it begins to be quite thick or it wiU change to butter. Sweeten with 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and flavor with i teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla. This may be spread between layers of cake, then the top ornamented with a little of the cream squeezed through a pastry bag. Maple-Cream Filling. Boil J cupful maple sirup until quite thick. Then add to it a tea- spoonful granulated gelatin which has been dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls cold water. Allow it to cool, and as soon as it begins to thicken, beat vsdth a fork, then add it to a cupful thick cream which has been beaten stiff. Chocolate-Cream Filling. 1 cupful sugar, J cupful flour. Dash salt, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, i square Runkel's Chocolate, 2 cupfuls milk. Put into a bowl the sugar, flour, and salt, blend thoroughly, then mix with the eggs well beaten. Scald the milk in a double boiler and add to it the egg mixture, beating steadily till it thickens. As soon as it is taken from the fire, stir in the melted choco- late and vanilla. Pour between lay- ers of a cake when it has cooled. Caramel Filling. 1 tablespoonful butter, i cupful sugar, i cupful cream, J cupful caramel, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. BoU together the butter, sugar, and cream until it spins a thread. Then add the caramel and vamlla, beat un- til cool, and pour between the cake. Cream Filling. li cupfuls milk, 1 teaspoonful butter. Dash salt, 3 eggs, i cupful sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla. Scald the milk with the butter, sug- ar, and salt; add the eggs beaten to- gether with the cornstarch. As soon as the mixture becomes creamy, beat it thoroughly, cool, and add the va- nilla. To make a coffee filling, use this recipe exactly as given, only add- ing i cupful very strong black coffee and leaving out i cupful hot milk. Orange Filling. Juice and grated rind 1 orange, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful orange extract. Whites 2 eggs, i cupful powdered sugar, 1 teaspoonful gelatin, 3 tablespoonfuls cold water. Put the gelatin to soak in the cold water, then set it Into a bowl of boil- 234 CAKE FILLINGS AND ICINGS 235 ing water until it dissolves, and add to the juice of the fruit. As soon as it begins to thicken, beat with a fork till fluflfy, and mix with the powdered sugar and whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Peach Filling. 1 cupful whipped cream, i cupful powdered sugar, 1 cupful peach pulp. Cut up 2 or 3 very ripe, juicy peaches and squeeze them through a potato ricer. Add to the pulp the sugar and cream beaten to a stiff froth. Blend thoroughly and put be- tween layer cake. All recipes where whipped cream is added to a filling ought to be eaten as soon as possible after being made. The liquor soaks into a cake if it stands any time. Ked-B.aspberry Filling. i cupful red raspberries. White 1 egg, i cupful powdered sugar, 1 cupful thick cream. Wliip the cream to a stiff froth, also the white of egg. Put the two together and with a fork stir the sug- ar in, blending it perfectly. At the last, just before spreading the cake, stir in the raspberries thoroughly mashed. Strawberries may be used in the same way or the pulp of fresh apricots. Tntti-Frutti Filling. 1 cupful whipped cream, i cupful powdered sugar, 1 cupful combination chopped walnuts, almonds, dates, rai- sins, and shaved citron. Whip the cream very stiff, beat in the sugar, then add the nuts and fruit, blending it thoroughly with a fork. Plain Icing. Pour 3 tablespoonfiils whipped cream into a bowl and sift over it sufficient confectioner's sugar to make an icing thick enough to spread. Fla- vor with any extract or fruit juice you desire to use. Egg Icing. White 1 egg, 1 cupful confectioner's sugar, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Whip the white of egg until frothy, beat in the lemon juice, then the sugar, until the icing is of a con- sistency that will spread. White-Mountain Icing. 1 cupful granulated sugar, 1 teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, J cupful water. White 1 egg. Bring the water to the boil, add the sugar, and let the sirup cook .without stirring until it will thread when lifted on the tip of a spoon. Pour it boiling hot over the white of egg which has been beaten to a stiff froth. Whip the mixture till it is soft and creamy, add the flavoring, and pour over the cake, spreading it smooth with a palette knife dipped in cold water. Chocolate Frosting. i cupful cream, IJ squares Runkel's Chocolate, 1 egg, J teaspoonful butter, J teaspoonful Mcllhenny's Mexi- can Vanilla, Confectioner's sugar. Put the chocolate in a bowl to melt over hot water, scald the cream and pour over it, add the beaten yolk of egg and butter. Beat with a fork and sift in enough confectioner's sug- ar to make it of the proper consist- ency; last of all put in the vanilla, and spread over the cake. This frost- ing used on layers of white cake with chocolate filling between makes a de- licious combination. MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Orange Frosting. Rind 1 orange, 3 tablespoonfuls orange juice, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Confectioner's sugar. Sift into the orange juice and rind enough confectioner's sugar to make this frosting spread. Coffee Frosting. Use the recipe given for White- Mountain frosting, only substitute J cupful strong coffee for boiling wa- ter, and leave out any flavoring. Caramel Frosting. J cupful cream. Dash salt, 3 tablespoonfuls caramel, 1 cupful light-brown sugar. Boil together the brown sugar and cream for five minutes, then add the caramel and salt. Beat till cool and creamy, and pour while warm over the cake. Uaple-Sugar Frosting. 4 tablespoonfuls boUing water, i pound jnaple sugar. White 1 egg. Boil the sugar and water together till it spins a thread. Pour over the white of egg beaten tiU stiff, and whip till thick enough to spread. Fondant Icing. 3 cupfuls sugar, i teaspoonful cream of tartar," 1 cupful boiling water, 1 tablespoonf ul Mcllhenny's Mexican Vanilla. Mix the sugar and cream of tartar together, pour the water over it, and boil till it forms a little soft ball when dropped into cold water. Pour it out on an oiled platter, beat and knead till of the consistency of lard. Allow it to cool. When ready to use, soften it over boiling water, stirring with a fork till it is creamy. Add the flavoring, and pour over the cake. By first using this icing on a cake, then covering when hard and smooth with Bunkel's Sweet Chocolate melted, you have what is called a chocolate-cream icing. Decorating Icing. — Whip the whites of 3 eggs to a very stiff froth, then add slowly powdered sugar un- til the mixture is so stiff that every point and thread left by the bfeater will hold its place. It requires beat- ing a long time. It is the same as meringue mixture, except that it is made hard with sugar instead of by drying, and takes about J cupful sug- ar to each egg. — Mahy Roxtald. CHAPTER XXXVI FIRELESS COOKERY FOELEBS COOKER The United States Fireless Cooker attracted my attention and has my indorsements for three reasons: First, it is cheap, practical, and eas- ily manipulated; second, it has no fabric or other lining to require extra care or to become foul; and last, be- cause the inner vessel can be renewed at any time at little cost. The whole contrivance is so simple, so perfect, so easily understood, that it can be manipulated by a child. ■ The idea of cooking without iire should meet with approval from every housewife. It seems strange at first — ^paradoxical, almost a joke — ^but when the fact is demonstrated by an easily managed, simple con- trivance, the truth is confirmed — we can really cook without fire. And not one, but many kinds of food. Cooks have always known that food would keep hot for a long time if carefully covered. This fact in- duced some one to go just a step beyond and make a nonconducting cover that would retain the heat at a uniform temperature for many hours; and this is the principle of the fireless cooker. Meats retain their flavor, and be- come tender more quickly if cooked below the boiling point. "Boiled" meats, to be perfect, should, after the first boiling, be cooked at a tem- perature of 180°; to maintain this temperature over a fire requires eter- nal vigilance, and even then is difS- cult to control. With a fireless cooker one need not give the meat a thought from the time it goes in the cooker until time for dinner. It is to be especially, recommended for vegetables that emit an odor while cooking, as cabbage, cauliflower, onions, and sauerkraut. Imagine surprising your family with a cab- bage or sauerkraut dinner! It is worth double its cost for ce- reals alone. One may have a well- cooked cereal without fire or rush in the morning. Your breakfasts can be put on the table in ten minutes. It saves time. One can prepare dinner while the breakfast dishes are being washed. When ready to leave the kitchen, put the cooking vessel with its boiling contents in the cpok- er and go where you please until din- ner time. Foods do not become overcooked nor water-soaked if the dinner, from necessity, is pushed on an extra hour. Do not open the cooker; let it alone until you are ready to serve its con- tents. Nothing can be overdone when cooked in the United States Fireless Cooker. It retains the nutrition and the natural flavors of all foods. There is no chance for escape. It does away with that most un- pleasant pot washing. It saves half the usual fuel. It saves the housewife hours of time and worry. It makes tough meat tender and palatable, and in this way saves many a dollar in a year in the cost of meat alone. It is indispensable to the stunmer camp, house boat, or yacht. The fish- erman or the camper may stay out an extra hour without keeping any- one waiting or spoiling the dinner. To insure the best results with the United States Fireless Cooker, make sure that all foods are boiling hot in the cooking vessel when you place it 337 238 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in the cooker. The object of the cooker is simpIy^ to maintain the heat and continue the cooking. Large pieces of meat must be boiled suffi- ciently long to be thoroughly heated to the center or they will cool the water after the cooking vessel has been packed in the cooker. The best results are obtained when the cook- ing vessel is nearly or quite full. If things are to be served boiling hot, stand the cooking vessel over the fire while you are arranging the table. I am using the United States Fire- less CJooker in both my kitchens, and would not, for many times its cost, give it up. Even with a gas stove, I prefer the cooker for long, slow cooking. It steams fruit cakes to perfection — ^no watching, no boiling dry, no re- plenishing of water. Four hours in the cooker and one hour in the oven finishes them. Think of the time, worry, and fuel saved between this method and a " four hours' baking in a very slow oven." I also found it most useful in the cooking of tripe, which requires hours of slow cooking to make it tender. Even then one has to watch it carefully or it will boil dry and scorch. A night in the cooker makes it very tender and ready to dress in many attractive ways. What I have accomplished in sav- ing, time, fuel, worry, and money by the use of the United States Fireless Cooker will, I trust, be sufficient to show every housewife an easier and better way. (Signed) Sasah Tysok Roreb. October, 1908. FIRELESS COOKEBT Until one has become initiated into the secret of fireless cookery, it is hard to understand how food can be prepared by such a method. When one has mastered the science of cook- ing without fire, the whole process becomes very simple. It is requi- site that, first of all, the dish which is being cooked should be brought to the boiling point and allowed to stand on the fire long enough for the heat to penetrate to the very heart of the food. It is then lifted, with the cover set on so tightly that no heat can es- cape, into the cooker, which is closed securely until several hours after- wards, when the food is brought to the table. During these hours the cooking is going on at a temperature of about 170°, the point required for slow cooking. For certain dishes, such as soups, stews, and the boiling of a tough piece of meat or fowl, there is no better way to render them palatable and nourishing. Of all the cookers that have been put on the market, the wisest choice is the United States Fireless Cooker. The utensil is a heavy fiber pail con- taining two saucepans with tight lids, which can be set on top of each other. The cover is put on securely, then the cooker is left to do its work until it is time for the food to be ready. When a large piece of meat, such as a ham, corn beef, or a heavy fowl is to be cooked, it is brought to the boil in a large, deep pail which takes the place of the two smaller ones. In this cooker there are no cushions to retain odors or dampness; it can be kept perfectly clean by washing and airing each time it is used, and it is practically indestructible. Some of the advantages of fireless cookery are these: During hot weather there is emancipation from an overheated kitchen. Food can be brought to the boil over a gas stove, the flame turned out, then the prep- aration of the meal can go on without any further attention. This means a saving of at least eighty per cent in fuel. The perfect preparation of cheap cuts of meat, which could not be done over a hot stove. There is no odor whatever while the food is being prepared. This al- lows the cooking of cabbage, onions, cauliflower, ham, corn beef, sauer- kraut, and various other foods, which are apt to fill a house with most un- pleasant smells. FIRELESS COOKERY 239 It is almost impossible to overcook any food which has been properly prepared and then placed in l!he cooker; even if the time allotted for a certain dish has passed, it will be benefited instead of spoiled. The washing of heavy, greasy, scorched pots and pans is no longer a necessity. There can be no burn- ing of anything in the cooker. The housewife who masters the se- crets of flreless cookery can plan her meals exactly to the minute. Breakfast can be prepared the night before, and found in the morn- ing deliciously cooked and hot. This is especially true of such coarse- grained cereals as oatmeal, cornmeal, and cracked wheat, which demand hours of steaming over a hot stove to become fit for human food. Also there is a saving in the amount of cereal used, as it swells to its largest capacity. The fireless cooker is a boon for the man or woman who requires a hot meal during the night; by close cal- culation a dish can be put in and be ready at any moment required. The cooker is as useful for keep- ing frozen food chilled as for pre- serving heat in a hot dish. Instead of taking the labor to repack ice cream, put a can containing the fro- zen mixture into the cooker, pour around it some of the crushed ice and salt, fill up the space with cold brine, set on the cover, and the cream will remain in perfect condition for several hours. Even when one has a small family which cannot use the quantity con- tained in one of the saucepans which fit into the cooker, equally good re- sults may be obtained by preparing the dish in a granite pan, bringing it to the proper amount of heat, pour- ing water about it and allowing the water to boil. Set the cover on, put the utensil in the cooker, fit in the lid, and give the dish the time re- quired. A FEW ETTLES FOR STTCCES8FUI. COOKING In every case have the saucepan so full of food or water that it just allows the lid to fit in. When vacant space is left, heat escapes. . Never open the cooker until the re- quired time has expired. If you do, it will be necessary to reheat the dish over the stove. When any food seems to be ex- traordinarily tough, such as old beets, or a sinewy fowl, allow an hour or two more than the time directed. An excellent method in preparing a number of dishes which require a long time to cook, is to set them in a cooker at night and leave them shut up tight until morning. Various dishes, such as veal loaf, baked beans, and fruit cake, are at their best when brought to the bak- ing point in the oven, then finished in the fireless cooker, being set in- side the saucepan with boiling water, reaching nearly to the top of the in- ner utensil. Boston bread can be made to per- fection in this way by letting the loaf dry in the oven for fifteen min- utes after taking from the cooker. When yon wish to brown the top of anything, as if it had been baked, set it- under the flame in a gas oven for a few, minutes, watching it closely. When you have only one food to cook, fill the other saucepan with boiling water and set under or over the one containing food. It helps to keep the heat to point required. Kind. Coarse hominy Farina Wheatlet Bice... Macaroni Spaghetti Vermioelli Quantity. 1 cupful. 1 cupful. 1 cupful. 1 cupful. 1 cupful. 1 cupful. 1 cupful. Water. 6 cupfuls. 6 cupfuls. 3i cupfuls. 4 cupfuls. 3 cupfuls. 3 cupfuls. 2i cupfuls. Time on Stove. 30 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 5 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 5 minutes. Time in Cookeb. Over night. 3 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. 2 hours. 2 hours. 2 hours. 240 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING SOUPS ABOVE Soxjp. Gonsomm^ Browa Stock Tomato Soup 1.1a Reine Potato Cream Soup B^gue Soup & la Menestra . Ox Tail White Soup Stock. . Beef Bouilli Veal Sportsman's Brotli. Fur^e de Lentilles. . Chicken Sheep's Head Broth Cock-arLeekie Friar's Chicken Rabbit Okra Gumbo Beef Gumbo Cream of Celery .... Cream of Corn Leek Hotchpotch Cream of Onion. . . . Soup Normandie. . . . Soup Ma^re. .^ Pur^e of Celeiiao. . . Split Pea Green Pea Winter Okra Com Chowder Dried Bean Clam Chowder Black Bean Onion Chowder Old-fashioned Bean. Herb Time on Stove. TiMIl IN CooEl 15 minutes. Over night. 30 minutes. Over night. 10 minutes. 5 hours. 30 m nutes. Over night. 10 minutes. 2} hours. 20 minutes. 6 hours. 10 minutes. 2 hours. 20 minutes. Over night. 30 minutes. 6 hours. 25 minutes. Over night. 20 minutes. 5 hours. 30 minutes. 7 hours. 20 minutes. 6 hours. 20 minutes. 5 hours. 30 minutes. Over night. 30 minutes. Over night. 30 minutes. 7 hours. 20 minutes. 6 hours. 20 minutes. 6 hours. 20 minutes. 5 hours. 10 minutes. 3 hours. 7 minutes. 3 hours. 10 minutes. 3 hours. 15 minutes. 5 hours. 5 minutes. 3 hours. 5 minutes. 2 hours. 10 minutes. 6 hours. 5 minutes. 2 hours. 10 minutes. 6 hours. 10 minutes. 3 hours. 10 minutes. 6 hours. 10 minutes. 4 hours. 15 minutes. Over night. 10 minutes. 2 hours. 20 minutes. Over night. 10 minutes. 2 hours. 25 minutes. Over night. 10 minutes. 2 hours. VEGETABLES. Vegetables. Time on Stove. Time in Cooker Beet Greens String Beans Green Peas Lima Beans Dried Beans Okra Squash Summer Squash Tomatoes Cabbage Cauliflower Green Com Onions Spring Beets Winter Beets Turnips Asparagus Carrots Brussels Sprouts Spinach Kale Salsify. KohlRabi Boston Baked Beans 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 7 minutes. 10 minutes. 20 minutes. 10 minutes. 15 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 15 minutes. 15 minutes. 8 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 30 minutes. 10 minutes. 5 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 2 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. 4 hours. Over night. 2 hours. Over night. 4 hours. 3 hours. 5 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. Over night. S hours, 1} hours. 4 nours. 2 hours. 2 hours. 3 hours. 2 hours. 2} hours. Over nl^t. FIRELESS COOKERY 241 MEAT. Meat. TiMB ON Stove. Time in Gookeb. Beef Stew 1 hour. 1 hour. 1 hour. 30 minutes. 30 minutes. 10 minutes. 30 minutes. 45 minutes. 1 hour. 30 minutes. 1 hour. 30 minutes. 15 minutes. 30 minutes. 20 minutes. 30 minutes. 45 minutes. 20 minutes. BoUed Ham Over night. Over night. Boiled Tongue Year Old Fowl Brown Frioasse of Veal Veal Birds Veal Loaf New England Boiled Dinner Pot Roast Beef & la Mode Beet Goulash Tripe Stuffed Steak; : . Roast Veal 6 hours. PUDDINGS. Pdddinqs. Time on Stove. Time in Cooker. Plum Baked Custard Cabinet Bioe Pudding.. Apple Tapioca. Fig Brown Betty.. Steamed Fruit. Bread Cream Tapioca 1 hour. 20 minutes. 20 minutes. 10 minutes. 10 minutes. 30 minutes. 30 minutes. 30 minutes. 30 minutes. 20 minutes. Over night. 3 hours. 4 hours. 3 hours. 3 hours. 6 hours. 4 hours. 4 hours. 2 hours. 3 hours. A FEW RECIPES FOR FIRELESS COOKERY Beef Stew. 4 pounds beef, 3i quarts cold water, 3 carrots, 2 onions, li quarts sliced potatoes, i cupful rice, I tablespoonful salt, 4 chili peppers. Choose a slice of beef from the top of a round, containing a bit of mar- row bone. Put the marrow into the spider, and when fried out, add the meat, cut into pieces, large enough to make a portion; let them cook, turning constantly, imtil brown. Put part of the meat which has not been browned with the bone into the cold water in the pan of the cooker, and add the brown meat. Rinse out the spider to get all the brown gravy possible, cover the pail, and let it simmer an hour. Cut the carrots into slices, also the onions and pota- toes, and parboil for five minutes. Drain, blanch in cold water, and add to the meat. Put the rice over the fire in cold water, let it boil five min- utes, put it also in the pail, then add the salt and peppers, cover closely, and cook twenty minutes. Put the pail into the cooker, shut down the lid, and leave it eight hours. Boiled Ham. If the ham is very salty soak it over night in cold water, put it into the pail in the morning, cover with cold water, put the lid on tightly, and bring to the boiling point. Cook ten minutes hard, then simmer for fifteen more, set it into the cooker, and leave it there over night. 242 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Chop Suey. 1 quart lean pork and chicken, 1 onion, 1 pint celery, 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 2 tablespoonfuls molasses, IJ teaspoonfuls salt, 1 tablespoonful China soy, i cupful fresh mushrooms. Cut the pork and chicken into small pieces, put any bones that re- main in a cheese-cloth bag, tie it up and drop in pail of cooker. Cover with cold water and let it come very slowly to the boil. Fry out a piece of fat, salt pork in a spider, and brown the meat. Add it to the water in the pail, also the onion, the celery cut in inch lengths, bring to the boil- ing point, then simmer slowly for one hour. Dissolve the cornstarch in a little water and stir it in. Add the molasses, salt, and soy. Cook ten minutes longer, set the pail, tightly covered, into the cooker; leave it there eight hours. When served, lift out the cheese-cloth bag with the bones. Serve chop suey with boiled rice, Saratoga chips, and toast. New England Boiled Dinner. Put the corned beef on to cook at six in the morning if you want it for a six-o'clock dinner. Cover with cold water, put on lid securely, and sinomer for half an hour. Then set it in the cooker. Pare potatoes, cut up cabbage in quarters, pare some tur- nips and slice them, and let each vegetable cook separately for ten minutes. Drain and blanch. Lift the meat from the cooker, put the vege- tables into the pail, cover, and boil ten minutes. Return to the cooker untU six o'clock. Pot Koast. i pound salt pork, 5 pounds round steak, 3 cupfuls boiling water. Salt pepper, and flour. Rub the meat on all sides with salt, pepper, and flour, fry out salt pork in a spider and brown the meat in it. Set a trivet into the pail of the cooker, pour in 2 cupfxils boiling water, which has been used to rinse the spider, let it boU five minutes, then cook gently on top of the stove for one hour. Remove to the fireless cooker and allow it ten hours. If vegetables are desired, parboil them, lay them under the meat in the gravy, and strain out before it is thickened. Steamed Fudding. J pound beef suet, J cupful flour, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful mace, i teaspoonful salt, i teaspoonful cloves, J pound Sultana raisins, J pound currants, i pound citron, i cupful sugar, IJ cupfuls soft bread ariunbs, 3 eggs, i cupful milk. Chop the suet fine, mix with the flour and spices, then add the fruit, sugar, and bread crimibs. Wet with the milk and eggs, stir hard, and turn the mixture into a greased mold. Set it into the pail of the cooker. Surround with boiling wa- ter, give it one hour on the stove and all night in the cooker. Stewed Prunes. 1 pound prunes, J cupful sugar, 1 cupful water. Wash the prunes thoroughly, soak for two 'hours, put them into a gran- ite dish, adding the sugar and water. Cook on top of the stove fifteen min- utes, then remove to the pail of the cooker, pour boiling water in until it nearly reaches the top of the pail of prunes, cover tightly. Let the water boU five minutes, then set into the cooker and leave over night. FIRELESS COOKERY 243 Cup Custard. 3 cupfuls milk, i cupful sugar. Finch salt, 3 eggs. Scald the milk, pour it over the sugar and salt, stir in the w^-beaten eggs, pour into custard cups, and grate a little nutmeg on top of each. Set the cups into the pail of the cooker, pour boiling water around them, and boil for ten minutes. Place them in the flreless cooker three hours. If you wish to serve custard with the top browned, set it under the flame of the gas stove for a few minutes. Serve icercold. CHAPTER XXXVIl FAVORITE DISHES IN FAMOUS HOMES In addition to the large variety of recipes in this book, we present con- tributions from the wives of famous men in all parts of America. The wife of President Taft and Vice- President Sherman each commend their favorite dish, while from wives of U. S. Senators and the Governors of various States come excellent rec- ipes. The value of such recipes con- sists not onlj in an interesting study of what are favorite dishes in famous homes, but in a most valuable addi- tion to the cookery encyclopedia of every housewife. Many of the recipes are for fine old-fashioned dishes, such as toothsome gingerbread, brown bread, and an excellent mince-meat. Here we find food peculiar to a cer- tain part of the coimtry, such as the Governor of Florida's fried okra, or a toothsome chicken pie, suggested by Mrs. Dawson, the wife of the Gov- ernor of West Virginia. There are various recipes which are unlike any found in ordinary cookbook literature ; for instance, a delicious angel-food pudding, Mrs. Chester Long's favorite cake, Hamburg cookies, Frankfort pudding, potato cake, and raspberry buns. Each recipe is well worth try- ing, and, once tried, it wiU become a favorite in thousands of homes. From Mrs. William H. Taft. Sponge Pudding. J cupful sugar. i cupful floiff, i cupful butter, 1 pint boiled milk, 5 eggs. Mix sugar and flour, wet with a lit- tle cold water and stir into the boil- ing milk. Cook untU it thickens £md is smooth. Add the butter and when well mixed stir it into the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Then add the whites beaten stiff and bake in a shal- low dish or cups, placing them in a pan of hot water while in the oven. Serve with creamy sauce. From Mrs. J. S. Sherman, wife of Vice-President Saratoga Fnddlng. 2 cupfuls coarse bread crumbs, 4 eggs, 1 quart sweet milk, 1 cupful sugar. Pinch salt, J cupful raisins. Butter, size of walnut. Flavoring, milk or vaniUa. After baking, spread with layer cur- rant jelly before putting on meringue. From Mrs. Reed Smoot, wife of U. S. Senator from Utah. rive-Egg Orange Cake. 5 eggs, J cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, i cupful milk, 3 cupfuls flour, IJ teaspoonfuls vanilla, IJ teaspoonfuls baking powder. Beat sugar and butter to a cream, drop in yolks of eggs, thoroughly beaten, add 1 cupful flour, milk, then another cupful flour, beating 244 FAVORITE DISHES IN FAMOUS HOMES 245 thorougMy all the time. Add rest of flour, with whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in layer tins in mod- erate oven. Filling for the Cake Beat white of 1 egg to a stiff froth, and add 1 teacupful pulverized sug- ar ; grate the outside of an orange ' down to the white, squeeze out juice, and add to frosting. From Mrs. Joseph W. Bailey, wife of U. S. Senator from Texas. Stuffed Tomatoes. Take fresh, firm tomatoes, and cut pulp from them with a sharp knife. Mix together chopped cucum- ber, onion to taste, cabbage, pepper, celery and salt, with some pulp of tomato. Place this mixture in scooped tomatoes and serve on lettuce with a garnish of mayonnaise. From Mrs. J. W. Burrows, wife of U. S. Senator from Michigan. Delicious Fruit Punch. Sweeten juice of 8 lemons and 4 oranges to taste. Just before serving, place a square of ice in a punch bowl and pour over it sweetened juice, then add 3 quarts Apollinaris water or White Rock, and garnish with a bunch of grapes laid on ice. A giU of rasp- berry or blackberry juice left over from canned fruit adds a beautiful color to the pimch as well as a fine flavor. From Mrs. B. R. Tillman, wife of U. S. Senator from South Carolina. Time's Gingerbread. 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful butter, 4 eggs, 3 cupfuls molasses, 4 cupfuls sour milk, 2 teaspoonfuls soda, 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, 3 teaspoonfuls ground ginger, 5 cupfuls flour. Cream together butter and sugar, add eggs well beaten, molasses, then sour milk, and, last, flour with which has been sifted spices, salt, and soda. Bake in moderate oven. From Mrs. Robert J. Gamble, wife of U. S. Senator from South Dakota. Hamburg Cookies. I poimd granulated sugar, 12 eggs, 3 pounds butter, 1 ounce carbonate ammonia, 10c. worth oil of lemon. Powder ammonia, dissolve in 1 egg, add balance of eggs and sugar, and beat for an hour. Add flour, lemon, and butter (not melted) ; mix with enough flour to make dough as stiff as can be rolled. Keep it on ice till ready to roll. With a cooky cutter shape like lady's iingers. Sprinkle pans with flour before putting .in cookies, and bake. The butter should have all the salt washed out of it twenty-four hours before using. This makes a de- licious cooky when putting jip boxes of cake at the Christmas season. They are very delicate and will keep for weeks. It looks like an expensive rec- ipe, but is not when you consider the quantity of cookies it makes. From Mrs. John Sharp Williams, wife of U. S. Senator from Missis- sippi. Candy. Have two saucepans ; into one put 3 cupfuls granulated sugar, 1 cupful thick sirup, and | cupful water. Into the other pan put 1 cupful granu- lated sugar and a gill water. Allow contents of both pans to cook until sirup will spin a thread or make a soft ball between the fingers when dropped in cold water. When both are ready, turn slowly sirup in first pan over stiffly beaten whites 3 eggs, and beat constantly during process. Into sec- ond sirup stir 1 cupful chopped nuts, add to other, and pour frothy mass into buttered tins to cool. When cold, mark in blocks with very sharp knife. 246 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK From Mrs. Chester I. Long, wife of U. S. Senator from Kansas. A Farorite Cake. 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls baking powder, 1 cupful milk, 1 cupful butter. Cream butter and sugar, add yolks of eggs and milk, then flour sifted with baking powder. After heating these thoroughly, add stiffly beaten whites of eggs. Bake in three layers and put together with following fill- ing: 1 quart double cream, 1 pound pecans, 1 pound seeded raisins. Whip cream to a froth, sweeten, and put between layers. Chop nuts and raisins and sprinkle over cream between each, also on top. This makes a cake which may be served alone as a dessert. It is a favorite with all our friends. From Mrs. P. J. McCxmiber, wife of U. S. Senator from North Dakota. Chocolate Cookies. Beat to a cream J cupful butter and 1 tablespoonful lard; gradually beat into this 1 cupful sugar. Add 1 teaspoonf ul cinnamon, 3 ounces choco- late (melted over steam), 1 beaten egg, and J teaspoonful soda dissolved in 3 tablespoonfuls sour milk. Stir in 2i cupfuls flour. Roll thin and cut with cooky cutter. Bake in hot oven. When cold, spread chocolate frosting on each cooky; on top of each put half a walnut meat. From Mrs. Nathan Bay Scott, wife of U. S. Senator from West Vir- ginia. Old-rashioned Fonnd Cake. 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar, 10 eggs, 1 pound flour. Butter and sugar are first creamed, then yolks of eggs added, then flour. The rule is to beat for an hour, but sometimes you get tired before hour is up. Last, fold in whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth; bake slowly an hour. From Governor Albert W. Gilchrist of Florida Pried Okra. Take several pods tender okra, wash thoroughly, and cut into thin pieces crosswise! beat 2 eggs, season with salt and pepper, dip okra first into sifted meal, then into egg, again into meal, and fry in butter. From Mrs. B. B. Brooks, wife of Gov- ernor of Wyoming. Drop Cakes. li cupfuls brown sugar, 1 cupful butter, IJ cupfuls sweet milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful each, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg, 1 cupful chopped raisins, 1 cupful broken English walnuts, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Cream sugar and butter, add well- beaten eggs, then milk. Sift spices and baking powder with enough flour to make a batter that wiU drop from a spoon, add mixture, stir in nuts and raisins, beat well, then drop by teaspoonfuls on a greased pan and bake in hot oven. From Mrs. Henry B. Quinby, wife of Governor of New Hampshire. Breakfast Oems. 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 1 coffeecupful sweet milk, 1 cupful warm water, 4 tablespoonfuls yeast. Flour enough to make a stiff bat- ter. Beat yolks of eggs and sugar, stir in milk, water, and yeast. Beat well and set in a warm place to rise. When light, beat whites of eggs to a stiff FAVORITE DISHES IN FAMOlTS HOMES 247 froth and stir into batter, witii a pinch of salt Bake in greased gem pans. If wanted for breakfast, mix batter night before. From Mrs. Edwin Lee Norris, wife of Govenor of Montana. ilolasses Pudding. 1 cupful molasses, 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful hot water, 1 teasfpoonful soda, 3 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful raisins. Cream butter, add molasses, then hot water; beat in flour with which soda has been sifted, stir in raisins, put in a greased mold, and steam three hours. Scmce for Molasses Puddmg, 1 cupful butter, 1 cupftil sugar, 2 eggs. Cream butter and sugar, then add thoroughly beaten eggs. Stir to- gether, set over Are in cold water, let water come to boil, and serve sauce hot. A glass of sherry or brandy may be added, though we prefer it without. From Mrs. W. M. O. Dawson, wife of Governor of West Virginia. Chicken Pie. Meat of 1 chicken cooked, 1 can mushrooms, IJ pints potato balls parboiled, 6 hard-boiled eggs, 1 heaping tablespoonful minced parsley, 1} pints cream dressing. Cut chicken meat as for a salad, put in bottom of baking dish, cover with mushrooms, then with potato balls. Season to taste. Sprinkle over it minced whites of eggs, then minced yolks. Scatter with minced parsley, and cover with dressing. On top put a cover of small biscuits as large as a finger ring. Bake three quarters of an hour. Prom Mrs. F. M. Warner, wife of Governor of Michigan. Pinafore Cake. 1 cupful sugar, i cupful butter (scant), 4 cupful milk (scant), 2 cupfuls flour, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Whites 3 eggs. Cream butter and sugar, add milk, flour sifted with baking powder, then whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth, also 2 tablespoonf uls cold wa- ter and J teaspoonful lemon flavoring. Put half of this mixture into a layer- cake pan; to what is left add 1 tea- spoonful strawberry coloring. When both cakes are baked, put together with following filling: Yolks 3 eggs, 4 cupful sugar, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch (scant). Heat milk in a double boiler, add eggs and cornstarch, cook till it thickens, add pinch of salt and any flavoring desired, and put between layers of cake. Prom Mrs. A. C. Shallenberger, wife of Governor of Nebraska. Amber Cream. 1 quart milk, i package gelatin, 1 cupful sugar. Yolks 6 eggs. Whites 6 eggs, 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Dissolve gelatin in a little cold wa- ter, let milk come to boiling point and melt gelatin in it. Add sugar and well-beaten yolks of eggs, stir- ring constantly till well blended, cook in a double boiler till it thickens, then turn in whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Flavor with vanilla. Pour into cups or a fancy mold and set in a cold place over night. When ready to 248 MRS, CURTIS'S COOKBOOK serve, turn out on a plate or sauce dish. From Mrs. John F. Shafroth, wife of Governor of Colorado. Cucumber Mangoes (Prize recipe). Soak in strong brine nine days as many large green cucumbers as you wish to use. Then lay them forty- eight hours in clear water. Cut a slit lengthwise in each, scoop out seeds, wipe dry and fill with stoned raisins, lemon cut in long, thin strips, and 6 or 8 whole cloves. Sew up slit, pack cucumbers in a stone jar and cover with a boiling sirup made after fol- lowing recipe: Add to 1 quart vine- gar 5 pounds sugar, also mace, cin- namon, and cloves to taste. Reheat sirup and pour boiling hot over cu- cumbers for nine successive morn- ings. From Mrs. J. S. Sanders, wife of Governor of Louisiana. Strawberry Ambrosia. Select large, ripe strawberries. Ar- range in a glass bowl with alternate layers coarsely chopped pineapple. Sprinkle between layers plenty of powdered sugar and freshly grated cocoanut, then pour over top 1 cup- ful orange juice. Set on ice, and serve very cold. From Mrs. M. R. Patterson, wife of Governor of Tennessee. English Pudding. Yolks 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. Stir on fire in a double boiler milk, eggs, sugar, and cornstarch till it thickens, then add whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Put in a deep dish a layer of fruit, then one of macaroons, and pour custard on top. When cold, cover with a thin layer of jelly and 1 pint whipped cream. Almond Cream. Mash 13 vanilla wafers with a roll- ing-pin, and pour over them a wine- glass of whisky. When soft, add 1 quart sweet milk and sweeten to taste. Whip 1 quart cream, sweeten to taste, flavor with a teaspoonful ex- tract of almond, mix with first con- coction, and freeze. From Mrs. Augustus E. Willson, wife of Governor of Kentucky. Trankf ort Pudding. Make a plain ice cream as follows: Put 1 pint new milk in a double boil- er; when gradually hot, add to S ta- blespoonfuls flour a little milk; stir until free from lumps, add to scalded milk and boil until a. little thicker than custard. Strain into 1 quart rich cream; add 2 cupfuls powdered sugar, whites 3 eggs (unbeaten), and 3 teaspoonfuls vanilla. Freeze, line a mold with ice cream, and fiU center with following mixture; The night before you wish to use them, take J pound candied cherries and cut into small pieces, and i pound French chestnuts shelled, blanched, boiled until soft, and cut into small pieces. Let these stand over night in sherry to cover them. Mix lightly with 1 quart whipped cream and fill the center of mold; close it and set in salt and ice four hours. Serve with a sauce of whipped cream flavored with sherry. From Mrs. Bert M. Fernald, wife of Governor of Maine. Chocolate Cake. Melt i cupful butter, and gradually add 1} cupfuls sugar. Scrape i pound chocolate fine, add 3 teaspoon- fuls sugar and 3 tablespoonfuls hot water; stir over steam until smooth. Add to sugar and butter, then drop in yolks 3 eggs, stir, and add whites 3 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Add i cupful milk in which } teaspoonful soda is dissolved, and lastly IJ cup- fuls flour in which is mixed 1 tea- FAVORITE DISHES IN FAMOUS HOMES 249 spoonful cream tartar and a little salt. Flavor with yanilla. Frosting li cupfuls sugar, i cupful water. Boil until it threads, add to the beaten white 1 egg, a few drops at a time, and stir constantly; flavor. 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 teaspoonful salt, i cupful molasses. Mix ingredients, beat thoroughly, and pour into paU, with tight-fitting lid. Cook in vessel of boiling water two and a half hours. Turn out on a pan, and brown in oven. From Mrs. G. H. Prouty, wife of Governor of Vermont.. Kaple Farfait. 1 cupful maple sirup. Yolks 6 eggs, 1 pint cream. Heat sirup to boiling point, pour slowly onto beaten egg yolks and the whip from cream, turn into a mold and pack in equal measures of finely crushed ice and rock salt. Let stand four hours and serve with chopped browned almonds. From Mrs. Albert B. Cununins, wife of U. S. Senator from Iowa. Almoad Tart. Yolks 9 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound grated almonds, 2 cupfuls grated lady's fingers, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Juice and rind 1 lemon. Whites 9 eggs. Mix ingredients in order given, and bake in two layers in moderate oven. Filling for Tart 1 pound chopped walnuts. Whites 2 eggs. Lemon juice and sugar to taste. From Mrs. Robert L. Taylor, wife of U. S. Senator from Tennessee. Steamed Corn Bread. S cupfuls sweet milk, 1 cupful butter, 3 cupfuls cormneal, 1 cupful flour. From Mrs. Robert S. Vessey, wife of Governor of South Dakota. Brown Bread. 1 cupful sweet milk, 2 cupfuls sour milk, 2 cupfuls cornmeal, 1 cupful flour, i cupful molasses, li teaspoonfuls soda> 1 teaspoonful salt. Sift dry materials, pour in mo- lasses and milk, then beat hard and pour in a greased mold. Steam three hours and dry in a hot oven a few minutes. This mixture is very thin, but makes a delicious bread. From Mrs. G. W. Dona^hey, wife of Governor of Arkansas. White loaf Cake. 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful sweet milk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 5 cupfuls flour. Whites 13 eggs. Cream butter and sugar, sift baking powder with flour, and alternately add it with milk to sugar and but- ter. Last of all, cut in whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in layer-cake pans. Filling for Cake 2 cupfuls sugar. Whites 2 eggs, J pound marshmallows, 1 pound English walnuts. Cook sugar with | cupful water. When it threads, pour over whites of eggs not beaten very much and 250 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK marshmallows. Shell walnuts, break slightlj^, add to filling, and put be- tween layers of cake. From Mrs. John Burke, wife of Gov- ernor of North Dakota. Angel-Food Pudding. 3 eggs, 1 cupful powdered sugar, 1 tablespoonful flour, I teaspoonful baking powder, 1 cupful broken wsJnut meats, 1 cupful dates. Beat together thoroughly eggs, sug- ar, flour, and baking powder, add nuts and dates. Pour Into a bilking dish, set it in a pan of boiling water and bake about half an hour. Let it cool, still standing in the water, chill, and serve with whipped cream. This pudding is a great favorite with children. From Mrs. Samuel G. Cosgrove, wife of Governor of Washington. Potato Cake. cupful butter, 2 cupfufs sugar. Yolks 4 eggs, 1 cupful hot mashed potato, 3 squares chocolate, i cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, '~^i teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful each cinnamon and nutmeg, J teaspoonful ground cloves, 1 cupful chopped walnut meats, Whites 4 eggs. Cream together butter and 1 cupful sugar, beat to a froth yolks of eggs with remainder of sugar, then blend both mixtures thoroughly together. rA.dd potatoes, chocolate melted over hot water, and alternately milk with flour, which has been sifted with bak- ing powder and spices. Last, add whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth and walnut meats. Bake in layers or a loaf cake as desired, and cover with a chocolate or a white frosting. From Mrs. W. R. Stubbs, wife of Governor of Kansas. Pickled Peaches. 1 gallon peeled peaches, 3 pounds sugar, 1 pint pure cider vinegar, 2 dozen cloves, 6 sticks cinnamon. Boil vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, and cloves fifteen minutes, then pour li- quor over peaches and let stand over night in stone jar covered with a plate. Next morning pour off liquor and heat to boiling point, then add peaches to boiling liquor and let cook slowly imtil tender. Seal in glass jars. From Mrs. Parker Morgan, one of the 400. Kaspberry Buns. 1 pound flour, i pound lard, 6 ounces sugar, . i teaspoonful salt, IJ teaspoonsfuls baking powder, 1 egg, A littie milk. Place flour in a bowl and rub lard in thoroughly; add salt, sugar, and baking powder. Beat egg well and add sufficient mUk to make the whole into a rather stiff paste. Knead light- ly, and roU out about a quarter of an inch thick, cut into rounds and wet the edges. Place a little jam in the center of each and fold over. Pinch the edges together and flatten slightly, put on a greased baking sheet, and bake in a quick oven twen- ty minutes. "From Mrs. Jesse Knight of Utah. Uince-Ueat. , i pound butter, 2J pounds brown sugar, 3 pounds boiled beef neck, IJ povmds suet, 2i pounds white sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls cinnamon, 2 tablespoonfuls nutmeg. FAVORITE DISHES IN FAMOUS HOMES 251 2 tablespoonf uls mace, 3 tablespoonfuls allspice, 3 tablespoonfuls sal^ Juice and rind 3 lemons, 6 pounds raisins, seeded, 3 pounds currants, 1 pound citron, 1 tablespoonful almond extract, 8 pounds apples, 1 pint brown sherry, 1 pint brandy. Rub butter and brown sugar to- gether; chop beef neck after boiling till tender enough to fall from bone; grind or chop finely suet. Add spices to white sugar, grate rind of lemons, being careful not to get any white, and mix grated rind Into sugar and spices. Seed raisins, wash and dry currants, chop citron finely, peel and chop apples. Mix all thoroughly to- gether, adding sherry, brandy, and al- mond extract last. Put in glass jars; it will keep indefinitely. From Mrs. Thomas P. Gore, wife of Senator from Oklahoma. Braised Veal. Slice veal steak into strips from one to one and one half inches thick. Season well to taste, and roll up and skewer with toothpicks. Fry them in hot butter till browned on both sides — be sure not to scratch. Place them in a roaster and sprinkle with butter, add enough water-^ream and water is better, but in that case do not use butter. Bake from two to four hours in a moderate oven. Be careful not to' burn. This recipe was originated by a friend of mine, Mrs. Thomas H. Dunn of Oklahoma, and from experi- ence I know just how delicious it is. CHAPTER XXXVIII SOME KITCHEN KINKS Instead of shelling peas, throw them, pods and all, into a kettle of boiling water, after washing and dis- carding aU spoiled ones. When they are done the pods will rise to the sur- face, while the peas will stay at the bottom of the kettle. Peas cooked in this manner have a fine flavor. To hasten the baking of potatoes, I let them stand a few minutes in hot water, after washing them clean. If you relish celery in soup and live where it cannot be secured the year round, dry the celery leaves as you get them and put them away in a fruit jar. When preparing soup, tie a few of the leaves in a cloth, and drop it into the kettle. You will find that the soup will have even more of the taste of celery than when using the stalk. In making peanut butter, I mix the ground peanuts with cream or millr instead of olive oil, if I only desire a small quantity. It is delicious, al- though it does not keep longer than a few days. Ham may be kept from getting hard and dry on the outside thus: take some of the fat part of the ham and fry it out. Let it get hard then spread on the cut end of the ham; half an inch thick is not too much. This excludes air. Hang in a cool place. When I want to slice ham I scrape off this fat, and afterwards put it on again as before. If your omelets burn because you have no " omelet pan," put a table- spoonful of common salt in the fry- ing skillet. Put it on the stove and 252 heat very hot. Empty salt from the pan, wipe it with a dry cloth. Cook the omelet with a smaU quantity of butter, and it will not burn easily. Changing the water two or three times will keep potatoes from turn- ing dark, and if they have been frost- bitten this will improve them. Before trying to break a cocoanut put it in the oven to warm. When heated a slight blow will crack it, and the shell will come off easily. A layer of absorbent cotton in the mouth of fruit cans is an excellent preventive against mold. If mold should form, it will cling to the cot- ton and leave the fruit clean. A delicious kind of sandwich was served with coffee at a recent club meeting. It took the fancy of each and every one. After tasting, some one asked the hostess of what it was made. She politely replied, " The rec- ipe was sent to me from a friend in an Eastern city, with the strict in- junction I should not publish it" Im- mediately all began guessing. A nod from the hostess informed one girl she had guessed right. Here is the recipe: One cake of Philadelphia cream cheese, mixed with canned Spanish peppers, chopped fine. One large pepper is sufficient for one cake of cheese. To keep cream sweet heat it to al- most boiling point, put it in a glass bottle or earthen vessel, cover, and set aside to cool. Cream thus treated will keep sweet and fresh several days, in SOME KITCHEN KINKS iSS moderate weather, and over the sec- ond da,j in warm weather. When making fudge, stir in half a potmd of marshmallows before jou turn it into the tin to cool. They melt immediately and make the candy as smooth and creamy as can be. If you want nicely flavored butter, with the buttermUk well worked out, try putting in a teaspoonful of clear honey to about three pounds of but- ter. You can not taste the honey but it improves the butter. When using grated or sliced pine- apple for sauce the juice of half a lemon with sugar and water added gives a delicious flavor. To give frosting a nice flavor add a bit of butter, the size of a hickory nut. It will also prevent the frosting from becoming hard too soon. To prevent staining your fingers, while paring potatoes keep the pota- toes in cold water. Gruels are more tempting to the sick if whipped to a froth with an egg-beater before serving in a pretty cup. When baking cookies, use a large round pancake griddle to bake them on. First heat it on top of the range, and have it well greased. If a kitchen window is kept open two inches at the top while frying foods, boiling cabbage or other odor- ous vegetables, the unpleasant odor will go out of the window instead of spreading through the house. After boUing salt ham or tongue re- move it from the fire and plunge at once in cold water. This instantly loosens the skin, which then puUs off without any trouble. Treat beets the same way. Try baking bread in a meat roaster with a top. This keeps the bread from browning on the upper side before it is done through — thus browning it evenly all over. Prune pies are improved by adding one teaspoonful of vinegar to each pie. Prunes are rather flat tasting so the vinegar cuts the sweetness. Back to Set Under Hot Kettles. On making cake when fresh milk, buttermilk, molasses, and sour milk, are lacking, use a cup of apple sauce into which has been stirred a tea- spoonful of baking soda. Besides be- ing an excellent substitute, the sauce makes a delicious spice cake, and without eggs, too. When spreading butter on sand- wiches or toast, do not try to soften the butter, but heat a silver knife by placing it in boiling water. The diffi- culty is overcome at once. When a recipe calls for sugar and flour, instead of moistening the flour with water or milk, stir flour and sug- ar together in the dry state. Then no lumps wiU be seen. If one cannot afford much cream when making ice cream, a small quan- tity will go farther and be richer if wMpped or scalded. In summer, milk sherbet, made with lemons and gela- tin, is inexpensive, very delicious, and a refreshing substitute for cream. Much can be done at night in prep- aration for breakfast. For instance, if baked potatoes are to be included in the meim, wash them ; and sift flour or meal for muffins. When we bake apples in the usual way, after coring and putting in sug- ar and water, the juice runs into the 254 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK dish and^is burned or wasted, as it naturally will not stay in the hole. Af- ter coring, cut the apple in two, and make the center of the trench in the apple deeper ; fill it with sugar, laying the cut half of each one upwards. To economize stove space when making rice soup I place a cup con- taining the rice in the soup kettle. It serves the purpose of a double boiler. It also prevents scorching or the soup boiling over, the latter generally being caused by the addition of rice. To keep cheese moist, wrap it in a soft cloth wrung out of vinegar, and keep in an earthen jar, with the cover slightly raised. To clean lettuce is often a nuisance, because of tiny green insects or their eggs in it. Turn on • the cold water faucet slightly, put your thumb against it so the stream squirts with force, and hold each leaf, with the broad end in the hand, under the water for a few seconds. Rinse, and it is ready for the table. In the cooking departments of wom- en's magazines, I find one class of housekeepers completely ignored, per- haps unwittingly. It comprises the millions who inhabit lofty plateaus and mountains. Perhaps lowland women do not know that we who come to these high altitudes (Tellur- ide, Colorado), have to learn aU over again how to cook. I have seen hun- dreds of recipes in cookbooks and magazines that would fail altogether here. For instance — I have boiled po- tatoes in Ohio (near the sea level) in twenty-five minutes. In Denver, at an altitude of five thousand feet, it takes thirty-five minutes. In Leadville, Col- orado, at ten thousand feet, forty-five minutes. This is because of water boiling at a lower temperature in high altitudes. Where I now live, at an altitude of nine thousand feet, I boil potatoes nearly an hour in water merely at the boiling point, and find they are not tender, so the water must be much hotter than at the boiling point to cook them. Other vegetables must be cooked longer. It is impossi- ble to cook until tender some of the garden peas that are on sale here in the summer, and we have to depend almost wholly on factory canned peas. A woman must learn over again to bake cake if she has just come from a low altitude. No Eastern cookbook can be depended upon. The ladies of this town have published a cookbook of their own reliable recipes. It is eagerly bought by newcomers from low sdtitudes. In baking cake, you must use more flour and less short- ening. Nothing else sweetens vessels in which milk has been kept so well as a solution of baking soda and hot wa- ter, in the proportion of a level tea- spoonful to a quart of warm water. Let the solution stand in the vessels long enough to get cold. Pudding dishes or pots and pans which have been burned are easily cleaned this way. If the refrigerator is stored away and the cellar is warm from the heat- ing plant there, an excellent way to keep lettuce crisp and tender, is to wrap each head separately in a piece of old linen, wet in cold water. Mois- ten the linen every day, and you can keep lettuce for two weeks. The in- ner leaves will be yellow and crisp, and there will be no wasting of outer leaves. Sometimes it is impossible to obtain sour milk for a favorite dish. A mountain mine cook told me his meth- od of obtaining sour milk was to di- lute condensed milk, which is invaria- bly used at the mines, until it was like ordinary skimmed milk. • Then he added a little sugar, and kept it in a warm place until it soured, even dab- bered. When using lemons in a way that does not call for the rind, I pare off the yellow portion carefully, put it SOME KITCHEN KINKS S55 through the meat chopper with the finest plate, and spread it out to dry. Then I put into a corded bottle, and it frequently saves grating peel when one is in a hurry, or makes a pleasant flavoring when a fresh lemon is not at hand. Wash and slice ten stalks of rhu- barb, cut and core three medium- sized apples, then stew apples and rhubarb together. Hang up in a jelly bag. For every pint of juice take a pint of sugar; boU till it jellies and pour into tumblers. If you cut cheese in long strips and put in a glass jar, screwing the lid on tight, it will keep fresh till the last bit is used. It can be kept in the ice box in this way without harming other food. When I use oranges or lemons, if the rind is fresh and wholesome, I pare it thin, so as to get none of the bitter white inner skin, and put it in a glass jar of granulated sugar. When the sugar has absorbed enough oil of the fruit skin to make it moist, it is ready to use for flavoring cakes, puddings, etc. The bits of rind give a delicious flavor to pudding sauces. If you wish to prevent citron, raisins, or currants from sinking to the bottom of your cake, have them well warmed in the oven before add- ing them to the batter. When spinach and dandelion are expensive, try cooking celery leaves exactly as you would other greens, boiling them in salted water, then chopping slightly and seasoning with butter, pepper, and salt. By saving the leaves from three or four bunches and keeping them bouquet fashion, with their stalks in water, you may soon accumulate enough leaves for a small, savory dish of celery greens. Here are some uses for salt: To beat eggs quickly add a pinch of salt. This also applies when whipping cream. Place salt in the oven under the baking tins, in order to prevent the scorching of their contents. Put salt in the water when you wish to cool a dish quickly. Use salt to re- move ink stains from carpet, when the ink is fresh. Salt sprinkled on the pantry shelves will drive away ants. Before cooking mushrooms I al- ways distinguish them from poison- ous fungi by sprinkling salt on the spongy part, or gills. If they turn yellow, they are poisonous; if black, they are wholesome. Boil oyster plant, parsnips, and such vegetables, with thin skins on; then peel when cold. The flavor is preserved and your hands are not stained. For boiling meats I always use a lard can in preference to a kettle. For a smaller piece of meat, or a chicken, there is nothing better than a tin bucket with a tight-fitting cover. It confines the steam and not only cooks more quickly, but the meat is juicier and more tender. When poaching eggs add a little vinegar tb the water, besides salt. This sets the eggs and keeps them in good shape. A pinch of soda, put in green vegetables while they are boiling, acts like magic. It makes string-beans deliciously tender; it keeps the fine color of spring peas, while a more generous pinch performs a miracle for cabbage, causing it to cook in about half the usual time, and keeping it as fresh and green as when it came from the garden. In making mayonnaise, I find that using vinegar which has been poured over pickles, beets, or cucumberg. In- stead of fresh vinegar, adds a pleas- ant flavor to salads. If pastry is considered unwhole- some, those who are fond of pump- 256 MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK kin or squash pies will find a good substitute by baking them as cus- tards. I uie the same recipe as for it filling for a pie, only add a little more milk, then bake it in custard cups set in a pan of water. The re- sult is a creamy, delicious dessert. When steaming a pudding, place the steamer over the saucepan in which you are boiling potatoes. One gas burner will cook both pudding and potatoes. When beating eggs separately beat the white first, then "steal" a little bit of it to start the yolks. The re- sult is .the yolks will not stick to the beater, as is generally the case, and they will get light twice as quickly. To insure success with salt-rising bread in cold weather, keep the night yeast in a box of hay. A small wooden box with a close-fitting lid is best for this purpose. Put hay into the bot- tom of the box and around the sides. In the middle of this set your yeast, then cover with hay. This will keep the yeast from a chill. Good bread will be the result. When serving afternoon tea, try using slices of orange instead of the inevitable lemon. The flavor is very delicious, especially when combined with green tea. Fresh sliced cucum- bers also give an agreeable flavor to hot tea if a dash of rum be added to the beverage. Set a glass of jelly in a pan of boiling water for two minutes or more. Let the water reach to the top of the glass. Then plimge into cold water. Take it out of that im- mediately and turn bottom up on a. cut-glass nappy or saucer. It will be prettily molded. To grind coffee and soak it some hours before boiling is a decided economy, but it nmst not be soaked in the pot. The acid in the coffee acting on the metal pot turns the coffee dark and gives it an unpleas- ant -flavor. Yon can easily test this at breakfast time by putting a drop of coffee on the steel carver. Soak the coffee in a closed earthen vessel. I save all paraffin paper from cracker boxes and cut it up to fit cake tins. After a pan is greased I put a sheet of paper in the bottom, and it keeps the cake from sticking to the pan. It is better to let the paper stay on cake after it is baked, until it is cold, unless frosting is to be used. Corn-meal mush will brown very quickly when fried, if a little sugar is put in the water while boiling. When mixing mustard, add a few drops of oil or sweet oU. This will prevent the unsightly black surface of the interior of your mustard jar. The paste will retain its original bright yellow color as long as a par- ticle remains. New popcorn, or popcorn that is damp, should not be dried out before popping, as is usually done. If you have recently gathered your corn, or if it has been left in a damp room, and you wish to use it right away,, shell a few ears and put it in a bowl of water for ten minutes. It will pop readily, and the flakes will be crisp and nice. When picking a fowl, particularly if there are many pin feathers, the work can be simplified by plunging it into hot water for a few seconds, then wrapping in a piece of burlap and allowing it to stand for three or four minutes. When picking, imcover only a portion at a time, so that the rest will remain warm and damp, and the feathers, great and small, can be stripped off in an amazingly short time. Use lemon ped, after the juice has been partly squeezed out, to rub stains from silverware; also to re- move fruit stains from your fingers. SOME KITCHEN KINKS 257 If you do not want liquor in your mince meat, use one pint of clear, strong coffee to each gallon of mince meat. Warm jelly glasses before "putting in the jelly, as it helps it to thicken, or set them in the sun. As a relish and a garnish to serve with a light meat course, such as chicken croquettes or timbales, noth- ing is more refreshing than small in- dividual molds of very tart lemon jelly, in which are molded a few nut meats. The jelly can be tinted to carry out any color scheme. INDEX Aigie diouz, 189. Almond cream, 199, 248. tart, 249. Amber cream, 247. Anchovy and cheese sandwiches, 47. Angel cake, 226. glace, 205. food pudding, 250. Apple and sausage, 129. cake, 25. celery and nut salad, 169. custard pudding, 177. dowdy, 178. pie, 209. with pineapple flavor, 211. pudding, steamed, 186. sauce cake, 229. sherbet, 194. tapioca, 184. water ice, 192. Apricot cream, 200. pudding, 179, 201. puree, 204. sherbet, 194. Arrowroot cream, 199. Artichokes a la creme, 153. Asparagus cream soup, 76. tips in cream, 145. Aspic salad, 174. Aunt Dinah's cake, 219. Bacon and calf s liver, 123. and mush, fried, 57. Baked-bean rarebit, 158. salad, 175. sandwiches, 156. soup, 157. chocolate custard, 185. salt herring, 94. Baking powder, a word about, 37. Baking-powder breads, 29. bannocks, 33. Baking-powder batter bread, 29. cakes, 36. biscuits, 29, 36. drop, 29. egg, 30, 34. Graham, 30. Maryland, 34. Mrs. Vessey's brown, 249. nut, 31. spoon, 39. Vienna, 31. * . cakes, flannel, 29. corn, 30. no-egg, wheat, 32. com, 36. gems, entire-wheat, 36. hominy, 34. rye, 31. Graham loaf, steamed, 35. griddlecakes, 39. blueberry, 32. Graham, 34. Indian, 33. jam, 32. one-egg, 33. whole wheat, 33. muffins, berry, 32. com, 32. Graham, 32. griddled, 33. ground-rice, 31. twin-mountain, 31. whole-wheat, 36. oat cakes, 35. pancakes, French, 33. popovers, 34. rice or hominy griddlecakes or muf fins, 36. Sally Lunn, 30. scones, Pitcaithley, 34. shortcake, 29. «lappers, 32. 259 260 INDEX Baking-powder sour-milk doughnuts, Sp. spider corn-cake, 36. Sunday-morning loaf, 35. waffles, 30. Woodlawn brown, 35. Banana cake, 229. cream, 200. pie, 212. sherbet, 194. Bananas and tapioca, 182, Bannocks, 33. Barberry water ice, 193. Barley broth, 71. Batter bread, 29. cakes, 36. Bavarian salad, 170. Bean soup, old-fashioned, 79. Beans 4 la Bretonne, 153, 155. a la Poulette, 153, 155. dried, sauted, 146. in a casserole, 150. with gravy, 152i Beef, 100. a la mode, 105. bouilli, 105. braised, 102. coUops, hot, 107. corned, and cabbage, 103. deviled, 112. fillet of, 103. flank a la Milanaise, 106. frankforts, creamed, 110. fricassee, 112. frizzled dried, 109. with poached eggs, 61. goulash, 106. gumbo, 73. hash, 113. heart saute, 108. kidney a la Baden-Baden, 109. kidney, Hungarian, 109. kidneys, broiled, 109. meat pie, London, 105. New England boiled dinner, 242. omelet, 104. oxtail, savory, 109. oxtails, fricassee, 109. ragout, 106. with tomato, 112. rissoles, 114. Beef, roast, 102. roast, gravy, 102. steak a la Bordelaise, 103. a la Victor Hugo, 104. and onions, 104. casserole of, 102. Hamburg, 103. pie, 104. pudding, 105. savory, 105. to broil a, 102. stew, 241. with dumplings, 103. stewed heart, 108. sweetbreads and macaroni sauce, 107. tongue, boiled, 107. tripe a la Creole, 107. a la I'Espagnole, 107. and onions, 108. curried, 107. Lyonnaise, 107. stewed, and tomato sauce, 108. with oysters, 108. Beer, ginger, 11. Beet and cabbage salad, 174. greens, 145. salad in cups, 172. Beets with butter, 151. Beignets of buns, 43. Beverages, 9. beer, ginger, 11. black-currant cup, 12. Ching-Ching, 12. chocolate-cream nectar, 12. afternoon, 10. sirup, 14. cider, mulled, 11. cocoa, 10. nibs or shells, 11. coflEee, boiled, 9. French, 9. iced, with orange flavor, 12. cream soda, 12. eggnog, cider, 14. fruit beverage, 13. cup, 12. ginger pop, 11. lemonade, 15, egg, 12. picnic, 13. INDEX 261 Beverages, lemonade, pineapple, 13. portable, 12. sparkling, 14. mint ale, 14. cup, old Colonial, 15. fizzle, 13. punch, delicious fruit, 245. fruit, 10. ginger, 15. lime, 10. piazza, 10. pineapple, 10. raspberry and currant, 11. red-currant, 14. tea, 11. tutti-frutti, 14. Taspberry shrub, 13. vinegar, 11. tea, 10. Russian, 13. wine, elder-blossom, 13. Biscuit spoon, 39. Biscuits, 36. baking-powder, 29. drop, 29. egg, 30, 34. Graham, 30. Maryland, 34. nut, 31. Vienna, 31. Bisque ice cream, 198. lobster, 77. oyster, 77. Black angel cake, 228. bean soup, 78. currant cup, 12. Blackberry ice cream, 200. jam cake, 219. sherbet, 195. Blancmange, chocolate, 185. grape, 183. Bluefish, baked, 85. with tomato sauce, 85. salad, 91. Bobble gash, 127. Boston cookies, 215. pork and beans, 127. sandwiches, 47. Bouillabaise, 75. Bouillon, tomato, with oysters, 73. Braised beef, 102. Bread, 16. brown, brewis, 41. caraway, 20. corn, 36. commeal, 21. croquettes, 43. crumb, buckwheat cakes, 42. dressing, 136. entire-wheat, 20. Federal, 23. fruit, 22. Graham, 21. griddlecakes, 43. Ereuznach horns, 27. made with dry yeast, 22. Mrs. Vessey's brown, 249. nut, 22. oatmeal, 21. omelet, 64. plum pudding, 176. pudding with raspberry sauce, 178. rice, 23, 56. ' roulettes, 43. lye, 21. and Indian, 22. salt rising, 23. sauce, 43. squash, 21. steamed, 41. corn, 249. Stockholm, 23. sweet potato, 23. water, 20. Breads made, from sour milk, 35. Breakfast gems, 246. Brewis, brown bread, 41. white bread, 42. Broiche, 27. Broth, barley, 71. mutton, 67, 72. sheep's-head, 72. sportsman's, 79. Brown bread brewis, 41. cream toast with cheese, 42. ice cream, 199. pudding, 179. sauted, 42. Brussels sprouts, blanched, 148. sauted, 149. 262 INDEX Buckwheat cakes, 95. bread crumb, 42. Buns, English Bath, 26. hot cross, 24. raspberry, 260. Burnt-ahnond cream, 199. Cabbage and beet salad, 174. and potato puree, 148. boiled, 148. cooked with pork, 148. creamed, 148. Grand Union, 171. jeUy, 158. Cabinet pudding, 181. Cake, 221, 222. almond tart, 249. angel, 226. apple, 25. sauce, 229. banana, 229. black angel, 228. chocolate, 225. layer, 225. marshmallow, 226. snow, 232. cider, 230. citron, 230. cocoanut, 227. and citron, 230. cocoa sponge, 225. coffee, 226. devil's food, 225. favorite, 246. feather, 223. five-egg orange, 244. fudge, 223. frosting, 223. geranium, 229. gingerbread with chocolate glac£, 228. with whipped cream, 228. gold, 231. ground-rice, 231. hickory, 231. homemade wedding, 232. huckleberry, 230. jelly rolls, 231. Lady Baltimore, 227. layer, 224. Cake, lemon sponge, 22S. queen, 229. marble, 224. Mrs. Fernald's chocolate, 248. Neapolitan, 230. New England raspberry, 227. nursery, 224. old-fashioned pound, 246. orange, 227. pinafore, 247. plain wedding, 224. pork, 228. pound, 226. quick, 228. raised, old-fashioned, 282. ribbon, 224. Spanish, 226. spice, 224. sunshine, 227. surprise, 224. walnut mocha, 230. white fruit, 229. loaf, 249. Cake fillings and icings, 234. caramel filling, 234. frosting, 236. chocolate-cream filling, 234. frosting, 235. coffee frosting, 236. decorating icing, 236. egg icings, 235. fondant icing, 236. maple-cream filling, 234. sugar frosting, 236. orange filling, 234. frosting, 236. peach filling, 235. plain icings, 235. red-raspberry filling, 236. tutti-frutti filling, 236. whipped-cream filling, 234. White-Mountain icings, 235. Cakes, buckwheat, 26. entire, 25. drop, 246. flannel, 29. Lancashire tea, 26. Mrs. Cosgrove's potato, 260. no-egg wheat, 32. raised batter. 25. INDEX S«3 Cakes made from sour milk, 218. Aunt Dinah's, 219. blackberry jam, 219. cocoa, 218. crumb gingerbread, 219. devil's, 218. dried-apple, 218. holiday, 220. maple-sugar gingerbread, 220. marble layer, 220. sour-cream, Mrs. Moberly's, 218. spice, 218. training-day ginger, 219. Cakes raised by yeast, 232. English whigs, 233. Irish barn bake, 233. loaf cake without eggs, 233. Long Meadow loaf, 233. old-fashioned raised, 232. Yorkshire, 233. Calf s Uver and bacon, 123. terrapin with mushrooms, 125. tongue with tomato sauce, 122. Camp salad, 169. Candy, 245. Cangrejueloe, 99. Caramel cream, 199. filling, 234. frosting, 236. pudding, 179. Carrots with white sauce, 151. Casserole, chicken, 134. of beefsteak, 102. Catsup cream dressing, 168. Cauliflower and potato salad, 174. au fromage, 159. boiled, 148. browned, 150. salad, 172. savory, 159. Celery and chicken sandwiches, 46. and macaroni, 58. apple and nut salad, 169. cream, 73. stewed, 151. Cereal, cracked-wheat, 54. cream-of-wheat, 54. entrades, 53. hominy in cream sauce, 58. fine, 54. Cereal, hominy mush, 50. Indian-meal, 54. leftovers, 55. macaroni k la Napolitaine, 52. and celery, 58. and chicken, 58. baked, 53. creamed on toast, 58. ravioh, 52. savory, 58. Siciliana, 51. with tomatoes, 52. Manana land, 51. oatmeal, 53. porridge, 50. oats, Quaker, 53. rolled, 50. rice k la Creole, 60. boiled^ 50. Milanaise fashion, 51. steamed, 50. timbales, 50. with cheese, 55. spaghetti a la Italien, 51. pignaute, 53. with cheese, 52. with chicken, 52. Turkish pilaf, 50. with fruit, 49. Cereals and flour pastes, 49. Charlotte, chocolate, 185. russe, 186. Cheese and anchovy sandwiches, 47. and olive sandwiches, 47. and walnut sandwiches, 47. omelet, 65. sandwiches, 47. straw, 208. Cherry pie, 209. sherbet, 194. Chesterfield cream, 201. Chicken and celery sandwichei, 46. and English walnut salad, 171. and ham mold, 137. and macaroni, 58, 138. and pepper salad, 173. baked with milk, 134. braised, 133. broiled, 134. chowder, 78. 264 INDEX Chicken, -creamed and sweetbreads, 135. croquettes, 138. friar's, 72. fried, 135. gallosch, 138. grilled, 134. in casserole, 134. molded with mayonnaise^ 171. omelet, 137. panned, 134. pie, 135. Mrs. Dawson's, 247. roasted, 136. salad dressing, 168. soufiSe, 138. soup, 71. with almond sauce, 135. with dumplings, 134. with peanuts, 135. with spaghetti, 52. Chifionade salad, 174. Chilecon came, 147. Ching Ching, 12. Chocolat mousse, 205. Chocolate, afternoon, 10. blancmange, 185. cake, 225. Mrs. Femald's, 248. charlotte, 185. cookies, 215, 246. cream, 200. filling, 234. nectar, 12. pie, 213. custard, frozen, 203. dominoes, 214. fingers. 217. frosting, 235. frozen, with whipped cream, 204. hearts, 215. layer cake, 225. marshmallow cake, 226. pie, 213. pudding, 185. sauce, 188. to serve with vanilla ice cream, 205. sirup, 14. snow cake, 232. soufQe, 178. Spanish cream, 185. Chocolate strips, 217. tapioca, 184. whips, 179. Chops, breaded, 116. lamb, broiled, 117. mutton, stufied, 117. Chop suey, 242. Chou£9eurs, au gratin, 158. Chowder, chicken, 78. clam, 79. com, 77. fish, 70. lobster, 77. onion, 79. salt-codfish, 93. Christmas fruit cookies, 215. Cider cake, 230. eggnog, 14. ice, 192. mulled, 11. Cidracayote, 152. Cinnamon strips, 217. Citron cake, 230. Clam chowder, 79. fritters, 95. salad, 91. soup, 78. Clams, 95. a Ja Newburg, 96. escalloped, 96. fried, 95. in Vienna rolls, 95. roast, 95. Cock-a-Leekie, 72. Cocktail quahog, 95. Cocoa, 10. cak^ 218. nibs or shell, 11. sponge, 225. Cocoanut and citron cake, 230. cake, 227. cream, 198. tapioca, 183. pie, 212. pudding, 179. sponge pudding, 180. Cod, fresh baked, with cheese sauce, 85. steaks a la cardinal, 86. Codfish and potato omelet, 92. balls, 93. INDEX 265 CodSsh, creamed, salt, 92. fritters. 92. salt, 92. sou£Se, 93. soused in oyster sauce, 87. toaster, 94. with macaroni, 93. Coffee, boiled, 9. cake, 226. German, 28. cream, 197. custard, frozen, 203. frappe, 196. French, 9. frosting, 236. iced, with orange flavor, 12. jelly, 183. tapioca, 184. Cold Sauces. creamy, 190. pistachio, 190. plain hot, 190. whipped cream, 190. Cold slaw, fried with oysters, 96. Collops, hot, 107. Compote of orange, 204. Consomme, 68. Continental pudding, 205. Cooked salad dressing, 168. Cookies, cakes and doughnuts, 214. Boston, 215. Christmas frnit, 215. chocolate, 215, 246. dominoes, 214. fingers, 217. hearts, 215. strips, 217. cinnamon strips, 217. cream for cream cakes and eclairs, 216. eclairs, 216. egg cookies, 215. ginger snaps, 214. Hamburg, 245. icing for chocolate fingers, 217. macaroons, 217. maple hermit, 214. nun's gem, 217. Oklahoma rocks, 215. one, two, three, four, 216. Cookies, sour-cream, 214. springerlen, 216. sugar, 214. Cold sauce puddings, 190. creamy sauce, 190. egg sauce for pudding, 190. jelly sauce, 190. pistachio cream, 190. plain hot sauce, 190. whipped-cream sauce, 190. Corn bread, 36. boiled on the cob, 152. cakes, 30. chowder, 77. cream, soup, 74. custard, 147. cut from cob, 152. fried, 154. fritters, 158. omelet, 158. patties, garnished with husks, 154. soup, 156. steamed, 249. Corned beef and cabbage, 103. creamed, au gratin, 113. Cornmeal and rice muffins, 56. bread, 21. Cottage pudding, 186. Crab salad, 169. sandwiches, 46. Crabs a la Creole, 99. soft-shell, 99. Cracked wheat, 54. Cream cakes, 216. cake filling and icing, 234. cocoanut tapioca, 183. dressing, 168. fiUing, 234. for cream cakes and eclairs, 216. horns, 208. in a crust, 180. of com soup, 157. of onion soup, 74. of wheat, 54. sauce, whipped, 190. soda, 12. toast with cheese, brown bread, 42 Creamy sauce, 190. Creme d' Amanda sauce, 189. Croquettes, Block Island, 132, INDEX Croquettes, bread, 43. egg, 63. Iamb and rice, 119. lobster, 91. macaroni, 59. rice, 57. sahnon, 91. sweet-potato, 162. Windermere, 125. Crumb gingerbread, 219. lemon pie, 210. pudding, 181. Cucumber mangoes, 248. and tomato salad in cucumbers, 169. salad, 171. sandwiches, 48. sauted, 149. Cucumbers and shad-roe salad, 173 stewed, 151. stuffed and white sauce, 147. Currant and raspberry punch, 11. sherbet, 194. jelly sauce, 189. rquares, 26. water ice, 192. Curried lamb's liver, 118. Curry of eggs, 63. of lobsters, 97. Custard cup, 243. frozen chocolate, 203. coffee, 203. pie, 210. Danish pudding, 183. Date pie, 211. Decorating icing, 236. Devil's cake, 218. food, 225. Doughnuts, raised, 28. sour-milk, 39. Dressing or Sauces for Salads. catsup cream dressing, 168. chicken-salad dressing, 168. cooked-salad dressing, 168. cream dressing, 168. French dressing, 168. oil dressing, boiled, 168. sour-cream dressing, 168. Dried-apple cake, 218. pie, 212. Dried-bean soup, 76. Duck, roasted, 136. £clau-s, 216. Egg cookies, 215. icings, 235. salad, 172. sauce for pudding, 190. Eggnog, cider, 14. Eggplant, baked, 151. broiled, 152. fried, 152. Eggs a la Bonne Femme, 62. a la Cuba, 63. and mushrooms, 61. baked in green peppers, 61. souffle, 62. in tomatoes, 61. boiled, 62. cheesed, 62. croquettes, 63. curry of, 63. deviled, 63. farci, 63. fricasseed, 65. fried, 62. with brown sauce, 62. in nests, 62. in ramequins, 61. in tomato sauce, 61. Lucanian, 63. omelet, Bismarck, 65. bread, 64. cheese, 65. Chassi, 64. ham, 65. oyster, 64. parsley, 65. plain, 64. Rudolph, 64. on rice, 61. poached, 60. ball-shaped, 60. in milk, 61. with greens, 62. with minced meat. 111. Rudolph omelet, 64. scrambled, 63. with bread sauce, 61. Ejotescon vino, 162. INDEX 267 Elder-blossom wine, 13. English pudding, 248. walnut and chicken salad, 171. Whigs, 233. Ensalada, 170. Entire-wheat bread, 20. Entrades, 53. Estilo seco, 152. Farina muffins, 57. Fatherland farm beef loaf, 113. Pig pie, 211. pudding, 178. Fillet of beef, 103. Pireless cookery, 237, 238, 23ft Fish, 81. blue, baked, 85. baked with tomato sauce, 85. bisque, 89. chowder, 70. clams, 95. cod, baked fresh, with cheese sauce, 85. and potato omelet, 92. balls, 93. creamed salt, 92. fritters, 92. salt, 92. souffle, 93. soused in oyster sauce, 87. steaks a la Cardinal, 86. toasted, 94. with macaroni, 93. crimped, 87. dressing, 88. flounder fillets h la Normandy, 86. souchet, 87. friadises, 90. haddie, broiled, 94. creamed, 94. Finnan, a la Delmonico, 94. shredded, 94. haddock, baked, 86. halibut, baked, 86. herring, baked salt, 94. how to bake, 84. how to broil, 84. how to fry; 84. how to plank, 84. how to saute, 84. mackerel, baked salt, 92. Fish, mackerel, boiled salt, 92. broiled salt, 92. stufied salt, 92. methods for cooking, 83. perch, Hampton Qjurt, 87. puS balls, 91. red snapper, baked, 85. salmon, broiled, salt halibut, 92. curried, 90. loaf, 90. trout, baked, with cream, 86. salt, 93. cod chowder, 93. how to cook, 92. shad, baked, 87. roe, baked, 88. smelts, baked, 86. brochet, 87. spiced, 91. sturgeon, to roast^ 87. timbales, 86. trout, broiled brook, 88. turbot, broiled, 87. white, baked, 87. Flaky pie crust, 208. Flank k la Milanaise, 106. Flounder fillets h la Normandy, 86. Flounders, souchet, 87. Fluflf pudding, 182. Foamy sauce, 188. Fondant icing, 236. Frankforts, creamed, 110. Frappe, 192. French dressing, 168. Fried bread, 42. scallops, 99. Fritters, clam, 95. codfish, 92. Frozen apricots, 196. bananas, 196. cherries, 197. chocolate custard, 203. with whipped cream, 204. coffee custard, 203. custard, 202. frappe, 192. fruit cake glace, 206. fruits, 192. gelatin cream, 199. ginger cream, 198, 268 INDEX Frozen ginger sherbet, 194. water ice barberry, 193. grape water ice, 193. iced chocolate, 195. coffee, 195. ice cream from condensed milk, 199. iced lemonade, 196. raspberry vinegar, 196. rice pudding, 203. Italian tutti-frutti, 193. lemon cream, 197. sherbet, 193. sherbet with gelatin, 194. water ice, 193. macedoine of fruit, 201. mandarin cream, 200. - milk sherbet, 196. Montrose pudding, 204. mousse (parfait or fruit pudding), 192. Nesselrode pudding, 203. orange granite, 196. , ice, 192. mousse, 202. sherbet, 194. souffle 201. parfait, Mrs. Prouty's maple, 249. peach cream, 200. sherbet, 195. peaches, 197. Philadelphia ice cream, 192. pineapple cream, 198. mousse, 202. sherbet, 194. water ice, 192. pineapples, 197. pistachio cream, 198. plombiere, 204. plum pudding, 205. pomegranate sherbet, 196. water ice, 193. Pomona sherbet, 196. pudding, 202. punch, 192. puree of apricots, 204. queen pudding, 201. quince water ice, 193. raspberries, 197. raspberry cream, 200. and currant sherbet, 194. jam cream, 199, Frozen, raspberry, water ice, 192. sherbet, 192. strawberries, 197. strawberry granite, 196. ice cream, 198. sherbet, 195. souffle, 202. water ice, 192. stuffed mousse, 203. tutti-frutti, 202. vanilla cream with extracl^ 198. ice cream, 197. sauce, 204. water ice, 191. Frozen desserts, 191. almond cream, 199. angel cake glace, 205. apple sherbet, 194. ; water ice, 192. apricot cream, 200. . pudding, 201. sherbet, 194. arrowroot cream, 199. banana cream, 200. sherbet, 194. barberry water ice, 193. bisque ice cream, 198. blackberry ice cream, 200. sherbet, 195. brown-bread ice cream, 199. burnt-almond cream, 199. caramel cream, 199. cherry sherbet, 194. Chesterfield cream, 201. chocolate cream, 200. mousse, 205. sauce f» serve with vanilja ice cream. 205. cider ice, 192. cocoanut cream, 198. coffee cream, 197. frappe, 196. compote of orange, 204. continental pudding, 205. currant water ice, 192. Fruit beverage, 13. bread, 22. cake glace, 206. cup, 12. pudding or parfait mousse, 192. INDEX Fruit punch, 10. sauce, 188. Fudge cake, 223. frostiiig, 223. Garcia salad, 170. Gelatin cream, 199. Gems, entire-wheat, 36. hominy, 34. rice, 56. rye, 31. Geranium cake, 329. German cherry pie, 211. Gingerbread, Tillie's, 245. with chocolate glaze, 228. with whipped cream, 228. Ginger beer, 11. cream, 198. pop. 11. punch, 15. sherbet, 194. snaps, 214. water ice, 193. Gold cake, 231. Gooseberry pie, 211. Graham biscuits, 30. bread, 21. made from sour milk, 39. griddlecakes, 34. loaf, steamed, 35. Grand Union cabbage, 171. Grape blancmange, 183. water ice, 192. Gravy, roast beef, 102. Green-currant pie, 211. pea soup, 76, 159. peppers, hashed with potatoes, 147. stuffed, 150. Griddlecakes, 39. blueberry, 32. bread, 43. Graham, 34. ham, 131. hominy, 58. Indian, 33. jam, 32. one-egg, 33. rice, 56. whole-wheat, 33. Grilled slices of beef with Creole sauce, 112. Ground-rice cake, 231. Gumbo, beef, 73. okra, 73. Haddie, broiled, 94. creamed, 94. Finnan a la Dehnonico, M. shredded, 94. Haddock, baked, 86. Halibut, baked, 86. boudins, 90. ramequins, 90. salad, 91. salt, or salmon, broiled, 92. Ham-and-chicken mold, 137. and-potato pie, 132. balls, 131. boiled, 241. and eggs, 129. griddlecakes, 131. omelet, 65. sandwiches, 132. shredded, 131. souffle, 131. steak, 129. toast, 181. to boil, 128. Hard sauce, 188. Hash, vegetable, 157. Hasty pudding, 49. Herb soup, 79. Herring, baked salt, 94. Hickory cake, 231. Holiday cake, 220. Homemade wedding cake, 23S. Hominy, fine, 54. gems, 34. griddlecakes, 58. or rice, or muffins, 36. in cream sauce, 58. mush, 50. Hot chocolate pudding, 184. Hot pudding sauces, 188. aigree diouz, 189. chocolate sauce, 188. creme d'amande sauce, 189. currant-jelly sauce, 189. foamy sauce, 188. 270 INDEX Hot fruit sauce, 188. hard sauce, 188. lemon sauce, 189. maple sauce, 189. orange sauce, 188, 189. soft custard, 189. strawberry sauce, 188. yanilla sauce, 189. Hotchpotch, 74. Huckleberry cake, 230. pudding, 182. Ice cream from condensed milk, 199. Iced chocolate, 195. coffee, 195. lemonade, 196. ' ' raspberry vinegar, 196. rice pudding, 203. Icing for chocolate fingers, 217. Indian meal, 54. tapioca pudding, 184. Irish barn bake, 233. Italian tutti-frutti, 193. Jam pudding, 179. Jardiniere salad, 172. Jelly rolls, 231. sauce, 190. Eale boiled with pork, 149. minced, 149. Kartoffelklosse, 162. Kedgeree, 90. Kidney a la Baden-Baden, 109. Hungarian, 109. omelet, 123. Kidneys, broiled, 109. deviled, 118. a la Maitre d'Hotel, 118. Kitchen kinks, some, 232. Kohl-rabi, boiled, 151. Kreuznach horns, 27. Lady Baltimore cake, 227. Lamb and mutton, 115. boiled leg of, 115. broiled breast of, 115. Lamb chops, a la Boulangdre, 117. breaded, 116. broiled, 117. curry of, 116. fricassee, 118. in savory stew, 119. kidneys a la Maitre d'Hotel, 118. liver, curried, 118. mound, with peas, 119. mutton chops a la Cleveland, 117. haricot, 116. imitation barbecue, 115. stew, 115. pressed, 115. rice croquettes, 119. roast, 115. sandwiches, 46. stew, army, 116. heart, 118. stuffed shoulder, 115. Lamb's liver, curried, 118. Langasta a la Catalana, 98. Layer cake, 224. Leek soup, 74. Left-overs, baked bean, rarebit, 168. beef, deviled, 112. fricassee, 112. hash, 113. ragout, with tomato, 112. beignets of buns, 43. bread croquettes, 43. crumb buckwheat cakes, 42. griddlecakes, 43. rice, 56. roulettes, 43. sauce, 43. brown-bread brewis, 41. cream toast with cheese, 42. saute, 42. bubble and squeak. 111. cabbage jelly, 158. cauliflower au fromage, 159. savory, 159. chicken croquettes, 138. and ham mold, 137. and macaroni, 138. gallosch, 138. omelet, 137. souffle, 138. com beef, creamed au gratin, 113. INDEX 271 Left-overs, corn omelet, 158. fritters, 158. croquettes, Block Island, 132. lamb and rice, 119. lobster, 91. rice, 57. salmon, 91. Fatherland Farm beef loaf, 113. fish friandises, 90. pufi balls, 91. spiced, 91. fried bread, 42. gems, rice, 56. griddlecakes, hominy, 58. rice, 56. grilled sUces of beef, with Creole sauce, 112. halibut boudins, 90. ramequins, 90. ham-and-potato pie, 132. balls, 131. griddlecakes, 131. sandwiches, 132. shredded, 131. souffle, 131. toast, 131. heads and trotters, to prepare, 72. hominy muffins, raised, 58. kedgeree, 90. lamb, mound with peas, 119. in savory stew, 119. lettuce, wilted, 157. macaroni croquettes, 59. meat, minced with poached eggs. 111. mock terrapin, 112. muffins, farina, 57. hominy, raised, 58. oatmeal, 57. rice and commeal, 56. mush and bacon, fried, 57. fried, 57. nut balls, 125. omelet, asparagus, 159. onion souffle,,158. papas rellenas, 113. pork cutlets, 132. potato-and-tomato salad, 165. browned, 164. cold croquettes, 161. croquettes, 164. Left-overs, potato pufis, 164. scones, 165. whipped, 164. potatoes. Chartreuse, 164. creamed, 164. curried, 165. Delmonico, 163. duchesse, 164. glazed sweet, 165. hashed brown, 165. Hongroise, 161. Lyonnaise, 164. stewed, 164. sweet, 165. with hard-boiled eggs, 164. with lamb stuffing, 119. pudding, cream rice, 57. remains of boiled dinner, 113. rice, with date sauce, 56. with cheese crust, 55. roast beef, Pillau, 112. Robert sauce, 157. salad, halibut, 91. salad, sweet potato, 165. salmon salad molds, 91. sandwiches, baked bean, 156. in cream sauce, 42. left-over tongue, 114. soup, baked bean, 157. com, 156. cream of corn, 157. green pea, 159. Monday, 159. pea, 156. spinach in molds, 156. rechauffe, 158. steamed bread, 41. sweet potato au gratin, 165. croquettes, 162. potatoes, baked, 162. glazed, 162. in cream, 162. toast, 41. milk, 42. tomato, 43. toasted sandwiches, 41. tomatoes, scalloped, and onions, 159. turkey, scalloped, 137. vegetable hash, 157. vegetables, ciuried, 158. 272 INDEX Left-overs, waffles, rice, 56. white-bread brewis, 42. Lemonade, 15. egg, 12. picnic, 13. pineapple, 13. portable, 12. sparkling, 14. Lemon cream, 197. and-raisin pie, '211. meringue pudding, 177^ pie, 210. queen cake, 229. sauce, 189. sherbet, I'DS. with gelatita, 194. sponge cake, 225. water ice, 193. Lentils, baked, 146. Lettuce, boiled, 145. wated, 157. with peas, 145. Lima beans, green, 146. Lime punch, 10. Little notes about bread making, 19. Liver, braised caJf s, 123. broiled, 123, calf s, and bacon, 123. lamb's, curried, 118. stewed calf s, 123. Loaf cake without eggs, 233. Lobster bisque 77. breaded, 98. chowder, 77. croquettes, 91. ciury of, 97. French style, 98. sandwiches, 46. Lobsters a la Newburg, 98. creamed, 98. rissoles of, 98. Long Meadow loaf cake, 233. Macaroni k la Napolitana, 52. and chicken, 68, 138. and celery, 58. baked, 53. creamed, on toast, 58. croquettes, 59. Macaroni peppers, 147. ravioli, 52. savory, 58. Siciliana, 51. with codfish, 93. with tomatoes, 52. Macaroons, 217. Maced«>ine of fruit, 201. Mackerel, baked salt, 92. boiled salt, 92. broiled salt, 92. stuffed salt, 92. Manana Land, 51. Mandarin cream, 200. Mangoes, cucumber, 248. Maple-cream filling, 234. hermits, 214. parfait, Mrs. Proutey's, 249. sauce, 189. sugEtr frosting, 236. gingerbread, 220. Marble cake, 224. layer cake, 220. Marmalade pudding, 181. sponge cake, 180. Maryland biscuits, 34. Mayonnaise oil, 167. Meat, minced, with poached eggs, 111. pie, London, 105. Milk sherbet, 195. toast, 42. Mince meat, 213. Mrs. Knight's, 250. Mint al6, 14. fizzle, 13. Mock crab sandwiches, 47. terrapin, 112. Molasses pudding, 247. Montrose pudding, 204. Moscow salad, 174. Mousse (parfait or fruit pudding), 192 Mu£Sns, beny, 32. com, 32. farina, 57. Graham, ,32. griddled, 33. ground-rice, 31. oatmeal, 57. or rice and hominy griddlecakes, 36 raised wheat, 27. INDEX S73i Muffins, rice ancl cormnea], 66. whole-wheat, 36. Twin-Mountain, 31. Mullagatawny soup, 71. Mush and bacon, fried, 57. fried, 57. Mushrooms and eggs, 61. with mutton cutlets, 117. Mutton broth, 67. 72. chops a la Cleveland, 117. stuffed, 117. cutlets, with mushrooms, 117. haricot, 116. imitation barbecue, 115. stew, 115. vegetable soup, 69. Neapolitan cake, 230. Nesselrode pudding, 203. Neufchatel salad, 172. New England boiled dinner, 242. raspberry cake, 227. No-name salad, 170. Nun's gem, 217. Nursery cake, 224. Nut, apple and celery salad, 169. balls, 125. bread, 22. Oat cakes, 35. Oats, Quaker, 63. rolled, SO. Oatmeal, 53. bread, 21. muffins, 57. porridge, 50. Oil dressing, boiled, 168. mayonnaise, 167. Oklahoma rocks, 215. Okra, fried, 246. gumbo, 73. soup, 77. stewed, 146. Old Colonial mint cup, 16. fashioned raised cake, 232. Olla Podrida salad, 171. Olive and cheese sandwiches, 47. Omelet, chicken, 137. kidney, 123. veal, 126. Omelets, asparagus, liSOl beef, 104. Bismarck, 65. bread, 64. cheese, 65. codfish and potato, 93. corn, 158. ham, 65. oyster, 64. parsley, 65. plain, 64. potato, 160. Rudolph, 64. One, two, three, four cookies, 216. Onion chowder, 79. curried, 155. sandwiches, 48. souffle, 158. Onions, boiled, with white sauce, 151. scalloped, 147. stewed, 151. Orange cake, 227. five-egg, 244. compote, 204. filling, 234. frosting, 236. granite, 196. ice, 192. marmalade pudding, 178. mousse, 202. pie, 212. pudding, 176. sauce, 188, 189. sherbet, 194. tapioca fluff, 183. Ox-cheek salad, 173. Oxtail fricassee, 109. savoiy, 109. soup, 75. Oyster bisque, 77. omelet, 64. pie, 97. rarebit, 96. Oysters a la Greorge Trimble Davidson, 96. k la Newburg, 96. broiled, 97. creamed, 97. eucoquille, 96. 274 INDEX Oysters, fried, with cold slaw, 96. roasted in shell, 97. sauted, 96. scalloped, 97. with tomato bouillon, 73. Pancakes, French, 33. Papas rellenas, 113. Farfait, or fruit-pudding mousse, 192. Parsnips, Yankee fried, 147. Parton pies, 99. Pates, 208. Pea and tomato salad, 171. soup, 156. Peas, boiled with butter, 145. in the pod, 146. with lettuce, 145. with pork, 145. Peach cream, 200. crumb pudding, 181. filling, 235. sherbet, 195. Peaches, pickled, 250. Peanut sandwiches, 47. Pepper and chicken salad, 173. and potato salad, 170. ■ rings, 147. - 1 Peppers with macaroni, 147. \ Perch, Hampton Courts 87. Philadelphia ice cream, 192. ' Pickled peaches, 250. Pie, Mrs. Dawson's, chicken, 247. Pig, roast, 128. Pig's feet, broiled, 129. Pigs in blankets, 96. Pimento sandwiches, 48. Pinafore cake, 247. Pineapple cream, 198.J*' mousse, 202. pudding, 180. punch, 10. sherbet, 194. tomato salad, 175. water ice, 192. Pineapples, lemonade. It. Pistachio cream, 198. sauce, 190. Plain hot sauce, 190. icings, 235. plum pudding, 182. Plain wedding cake, 224. Plombiere, 204. Poached eggs, with greens, 62. Pomegranate sherbet, 195. water ice, 193. Pomona sherbet, 195. Poor man's pudding, 186. Pop, ginger, 11. Fork, boiled, with kale, 149. bobble gash, 127. Boston pork and beans, 127. cake, 228. chops, sauce Robert, 127. cooked with cabbage, 148. cutlets, 132. ham, boiled, 241. broiled, and eggs, 129. steak, 129. to boil, 128. ' pig, roast, 128. pig's feet, broiled, 129. roast, 127. salt, fried, cream gravy, 130. sauerkraut, with spareribs, 128. sausage and apple, 129. homemade, 128. rolls, 129. tenderloins, with sweet potatoes, 127 toad in the hole, 129. with peas, 145. Potato and cabbage pur^e, 148. and cauliflower salad, 174. and codfish omelet, 92. and ham pie, 132. and pepper salad, 170. and tomato salad, 165. browned, 164. cake, Mrs. Cosgrove's,' 250. cold, croquettes, 161. cream soup, 69. croquettes, 164. fried, balls, 161. omelet, 160. puffs, 164. salad, 173. balls, 173. scones, 165. whipped, 164. Potatoes a la HoUandaise:, 180. baked, 160. INDEX 275 Potatoes, baked, on half shell, 160. boiled, 160. Brabanconne, 161. Chambrey, 161. Chartreuse, 164. creamed, 164. curried, 165. Duchesse, 164. French-fried, 161. glazed sweet, 165. hashed brown, 165. with green peppers, 147. Hongroise, 161. Lyonnaise, 164. mashed, 160. roasted brown, 160. Saratoga chips, 161. scalloped, 160. stewed, 164. sweet, 165. with hard-boiled eggs, 164. with Iamb stu£Sng, 119. Poultry, bread dressing, 136. chicken, baked with milk, 134. braised, 133. broiled, 134. creamed, and sweetbreads, 135. fried, 135. grilled, 134. in casserole, 134. panned, 134. pie, 135. roasted, 136. with almond sauce, 135. trtth dumplings, 134. with peanuts, 135. duck, roasted, 136. pie, Mrs. Dawson's chicken, 247. turkey, roasted, 135. Pound cake, 226. old-fashioned, 246. Proven9al salad, 174. Prune and bread pudding, 177. pie, 212. Prunes, stewed, 242. Pudding, cream rice, 67. Puddings, almond cream, 248. amber cream, S47. angel food, 250. custard cup, 243. Paddings, English, 248. Frankfort, 248. hasty, 49. iced rice, 203. molasses, 247. Saratoga, 244. sponge, 244. steamed, 242. strawberry ambrosia, 248. Puff paste, 207. apple pie, 209. with pineapple flavor, 211. banana pie, 212. cheese straws, 208. cherry pie, 209. chocolate-cream pie, 213. pie, 213. cocoanut pie, 212. cream horns, 208. crumb lemon pie, 210. custard pie, 210. date pie, 211. dried-apple pie, 212. fig pie, 211. flaky pie crust, 208. Grerman cherry pie, 211. gooseberry pie, 211. green-currant pie, 211. lemon-aud-raisin pie, 211. pie, 210. mince-meat, 213. orange pie, 212. IMltes, 208. prune pie, 212. pumpkin pie, 209. raspberry pie, 209. rhubarb pie, 213. strawberry pie, 212. sweet-potato pie, 210. torto frutas, 212. vanilla-cream pie, 210. vol au vent, 208. Pumpkin pie, 209. Punch, 192. delicious fruit, 245. fruit, 10. ginger, 15. lime, 10. piazza, 10. pineapple, 10. 276 INDEX Punch, raspberry and currant, 11. red-currant, 14. tea, 11. tutti frutti, 14. Puree, cabbage and potato, 148. de lentilles, 71. of apricots, 204. of celeriac, 76. Quahog cocktail, 95. Queen pudding, 201. Quick cake, 228. Quince water ice, 193. Rabbit soup, 72. Raised wheat muffins, 37. Rare-beef sandwiches, 46. Rarebit, oyster, 96. Raspberry and currant punch, 11. sherbet, 194. buns, 250. cream, 200. jam cream, 199. jeUy, 183. pie, 209. sauce, 178. and bread pudding, 178. shrub, 13. vinegar, 11. water ice, 192. Ravioli macaroni, 52. Red-apple salad, 173. cabbage, shredded, 153. stewed, 153. currant punch, 14. raspberry filling, 235. snapper, baked, 85. vegetable salad, 174, Rhubarb pie, 213. Ribbon cake, 224. Rice a la Creole,' 50. and cornmeal muffins, 56. and lamb croquettes, 119. boiled, 50. bread, 23. croquettes, 57. gems, 56. griddlecakes, 56. Milanese fashion, 51. or hominy griddlecakes or muffins, : Rice pudding, iced, 203. steamed, 50. timbales, 50. waffles, 56. with cheese, 55. with cheese crust, 56. with date sauce, 56. with eggs, 61. Rissoles of lobster, 98. Roast-beef gravy, 102. pillau, 112. pot, 242. Robert sauce, 157. Rolls, luncheon, 25. Parker House, 24. Swedish, 26. Swiss, 24. Rothe Crutze, 184. Roulettes, bread, 43. Salad, bluefish, 91. clam, 91. dressing, cooked, 168. halibut, 91. in boats, 172. sweet-potato, 165. Salads, 166. oil mayonnaise, 167. Salsify, 151. Sally Lunn, 30. Yorkshire, 24. Salmon, broiled salt, halibut, 92. croquettes, 91. curried, 90. loaf, 90. salad, 170. molds, 91. salt, broiled, 92. sandwiches, 47. trout, baked, with cream, 86. Salt codfish, 92. chowder, 93. creamed, 92. fish, how to cook, 92. herring, baked, 94. mackerel, baked, 93. boiled, 92. broiled, 92. stuffed, 92. pork, fried, cream gravy, 130. INDEX 27: Salt rising bread, 23. Sandwiches, 44. anchovy-and-cheese, 4/7. baked-beans, 166, Boston, 47. cheese, 47. cheese-and-olive, 47. chicken-and-celety, 46. club, 46. crab, 46. cucumber, 48. hot ham, 46. in cream sauce, 42. lamb, 46. lobster, 46. mock-crab, 47. Oak HiU, 46. onion, 48. peanut, 47. pimento, 48. rare bee^ 46, salmon, 47. sweetbread, 46. tomato, 48. tongue, 46. walnut, 47. and cheese, 47. water-cress, 47. Saratoga chips, 161. Sauce, allemande, 139. anchovy, 139. bechamel, 140. brown, 140. cardinal, 139. celery, 139. chocolate, 188. cold horse-radish, 141. cream, cucumber, 140. drawn-butter egg, 141. for snow pudding, 183. Hollandaise, 140. horse-radish, 141. mint, 141. piquante, 139. shrimp, 141. soubise, 139. Spaoish, 139. Tartare, 140. thin white, 141. tomato, 141. Sauce, white mushroom, 140. Sauerkraut, with spareribs, 128. Sausage and apple, 129. homemade, 128. rolls, 129. Savory stew of lamb, 119. Scalloped apples, 178. Scallops, fried, 99. on the shell, 99. scalloped, 99. Scones, Fitcaithley, 34. Shad, baked, 87. roe and cucumber salad, 178. baked, 88. Shaddock salad, 175. Sheep's-head broth, 72. Shell fish, cangrejueloe, 99. clams a la Newburg, 95. escalloped, 96. fried, 95. in Vienna rolls, 95. roast, 95. crabs a la Creole, 99. soft-shell, 99. Mtters, clam, 95. Langosta a la Catalana, 98. lobster a la Newburg, 98. breaded, 98. creamed, 98. curry of, 97. French style, 98. oyster pie, 97. rarebit, 96. rissoles of, 98. oysters a la George Trimble David son, 96. a la Newburg, 96. broiled, 97. creamed, 97. encoquille, 96. fried, with cold slaw, 96. roasted in shell, 97. sauted, 96. scalloped, 97. partan pies, 99. pigs in blankets, 96. quahog cocktail, 95. salad, bluefish, 91. clam, 91. sandwiches, crab, 46. 278 INDEX Shell fish, scallops, fried, 99. on the shell, 99. scalloped, 99. Shelled beans, stewed, 146. Sherbet, 192. Shortcake, 29. Sidney Smith's salad dressing, 169. Slappers, 32. Small breads, apple cake, S5. bread, steamed corn, 249. broiche, 27. buns, English batter, 26. hot-cross, 24. cakes, buckwheat, 2d. entire-buckwheat, 25. Liancashire tea, 26. raised-batter, 25. currant squares, 26. doughnuts, raised, 28. gems, breakfast, 246. made from yeast, 23. raised wheat muffins, 27. rolls, luncheon, 26. Parker House, 24. Swedish, 26. Swiss, 24. Sally Lunn, Yorkshire, 34. toast, spider-browned, 42. waffles, raised wheat, 27. Smelts, baked, 86. brochet, 87. Snowballs, 186. Snow pudding, 182. Soft custard, 189. shell crabs, 99. Sorrel soup, 78. Soups, 66. a la Flamande, 71. & la Menestra, 70. a la Reine, 69. asparagus cream, 76. baked-bean, 157. bean, 67. beef gumbo, 73. bfeque, 69. bisque, lobster, 77. oyster, 77. black-bean, 78. bouillabaise, 75. bouillon, tomato, with oysters, 73. Soups, broth, barley, 71, chicken, 71. chowder, chicken, 7S. clam, 79. corn, 77. fish, 70. lobster, 77. onion, 79. clam, 78. cock-a-leekie, 72. corn, 156. cream of celery, 73. of com, 74, 157. of onion, 74. Creole, 67. dried-bean, 75. Du Barry, 70. fish bisque, 89. friar's, chicken, 72. green-pea, 76, 159. gumbo, okra, 73. herb, 79. leek, 74. maigre, 76. mock-turtle, 67. muUagatawny, 71. mutton broth, 67, 72. Normandie, 75. old-fashioned bean, 79. oxtail, 75. h, la Tabasco, 70. pea, 156. potato-cream, 69. puree of celeriac, 76. de lentilles, 71. rabbit, 72. sheep's-head broth, 72. split-pea, 76. sportsman's broth, 79. sorrel, 78. stock, brown, 68. stock, white, 70. tomato, 68. veal, 68. vegetable mutton, 69. winter okra, 77. Sour-cream cake, Mrs. Moberly's, 218 cookies, 214. dressing, 168. milk doughnuts, 39. INDEX Sour milk, Graham bread, 37. Spaghetti a la Italien, 51. Fiquante, 53. with cheese, 52. with chicken, 52. Spanish cake, 236. chocolate cream, 185. Spareribs, with sauerkraut, 128. Spice cake, 218, 224. Spider corn cake, 36. Spinach, boiled, 149. cooked without water, 149. in molds, 156. rechauffe, 158. salad on tongue, 172. with cream, 149. with egg, 149. Split-pea soup, 76. Sponge cake a la Chantilly, 180. Spoon biscuit, 39. Springerlein, 216. Squash, baked Hubbard, 146. Stale bread, 40. Stale bread and cake puddings, 176. Steak a la Bordelaise, 103 a la Victor Hugo, 104. Hamburg, 103. pudding, 105. savory, 105. to broil a, 102. Stew, army, 116. brown, 121. lamb heart, 118. mutton, 115. Stock, brown, 68. white soup, 70. String-bean and water-cress salad, 169. Strawberry ambrosia, 248. granite, 196. ice cream, 198. pie, 212. sauce, 188. sherbet, 195. water ice, 192. Stufied mousse, 203. Sturgeon, to roast, 87. Suculento, 162. Suet cherry roly-poly, 181. Sugar cookies, 214. Summer salad, 170, 175. Summer squ Sunday-morniiij^ Sunshine cake, 21; Surprise cake, 224. ^x Sweetbread croquettes, ~i~ fritters, 124. salad, 172. ' ^^^^.. sandwiches, 46. ■^•- Sweetbreads a la Newburg, 124. and macaroni sauce, 107. fried, 123. with creamed chicken, 135. Sweet potato, 162. au gratin, 165. bread, 23. croquettes, 162. in cream, 162. pie, 210. potatoes, baked, 162. boiled, 162. broiled, 162. glazed, 162. with pork tenderloins, 127. Tapioca and bananas, 182. cream cocoanut, 183. Indian pudding, 184. Tea, 10. punch, 11. Russian, 13. Teather cake, 223. " Timbales. fish, 86. Toad in the hole, 129. ' Toasted sandwiches, 41. Toast, milk, 42. spider browned, 42. tomato, 43. Tomato and cucumber salad in cucum ber, 169. and pea salad, 171. jelly with celery salad, 17S. mayonnaise, 169. pineapple salad, 175. salad, 175. and potatoes, 165. sandwiches, 48. soup, 68. surprise, 153. toast, 43. with oyster bouillon, 73. 278 INDEX Shell fish, scallops, fried, 9P on the shell, 99. scalloped, 99. ,; ' Shelled beans, stewe^ Sherbet, 192. Shortcake, 29, onions, 159. Sidney Smiit' Slappe; Mrs. Bailey's, 245. S°With succotash, 147. ongue, boiled, 107. sandwiches, 46. leftover, 114. with spinach salad, 172. with tomato sauce, 122. Torto frutas, 212. Training-day ginger cake, 219. Tripe k la Creole, 107. a I'Espagnole, 107. and onions, 108. curried, 107. Lyonnaise, 107. stewed, and tomato sauce, 108. with oysters, 108. Trotters and heads, to prepare, 72. Trout, broiled brook, 88. Turbot, broiled, 87. Turkey, roasted, 136. scalloped, 137. Turkish pilaf, 60. THimips, boiled, 160. fried, 147. glac^ au Sucre, 153. hashed, 160. Tutti-frutti, 202. filling, 235. punch, 14. Vanilla cream pie, 210. with extract, 198. ice cream, 197. sauce, 189, 204. Veal, 120 birds, 121. braised, Mrs. Gore's, 251. brown stew, 121. calf s liver terrapin, with mushrooms, 125. tongue, with tomato sauce, 122. collops, 122. croquettes, Windermere, 125. Veal cutlets, 121. curried, 121. hearts, 121. kidneys, deviled, 123. omelet, 123. liver, braised calPs, 123. calf s and bacon, 123. stewed calf s, 123. loaf, 121. nut balls, 126. omelet, 126. oysters, 121. roast breast of, 120. roasted with mushrooms, 120. ragout of, 121. savory, 120. smothered, 122. soup, 68. stew, 122. sweetbread croquettes, 124. fritters, 124. sweetbreads a la Newburg, 124. fried, 123. Wiener Schnitzel, 122. Vegetable hash, 157. mutton soup, 69. Vegetables, 142. Vegetarian sausages, 164. Vol au vent, 208. Waffles, 30. raised wheat, 27. rice, 56. Walnut and cheese sandwiches, 47. mocha cake, 230. pudding, 177. sandwiches, 47. Water-cress and string-beau salad, 169. sandwiches, 47. ice, 191. Whipped-cream filling, 234. White-bread brewis, 42. fish, baked, 87. fruit cake, 229. loaf cake, 249. Mountain icing, 235. Whole-wheat muffins, 36. Wiener Schnitzel, 122. Woddlawn brown bread, 36. Yorkshire cake, 233.