m Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028605792 Cornell Unlverelly Library DS 156.L8F32 3 1924 028 605 792 ..".. ^f«fV*^S8^^ A PORTION or THE BAS-RELIEFS AT CADYAWDA JoLi-uMvLrl«ry,LorL.doiv. 1841 1)3.7 ^Ib^oVie Lijih.^.^ to liie Qweeu AN ACCOUNT DISCOVERIES IN LYCIA, BEING A JOURNAL KEPT DURING A SECOND EXCURSION IN ASIA MINOR, CHARLES FELLOWS. 1840. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. M.DCCC.XLI. PRINTED BY RICHARD AND JOHN E. TAYLOR, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET. PREFACE. On my visit to Asia Minor in 1838, of which I gave an account in my former Journal, I found that the district of ancient Lycia was so rich in all that is most inter- esting to the traveller, that, my time then allowing of only a short excursion into it, 1 could not but feel a strong desire to return at a future day, and explore it more carefully. This desire was increased when, on reaching England, I learned how completely unknown this country is to modern travellers, and how much importance the learned attached to many of my discoveries. On my second visit therefore to Asia Minor, in 1840 (the account of which is given in the Journal now pub- lished), I determined to turn my steps at once to Lycia; and I have, as will be seen from the line of my route on the map, traversed it in several directions. The new iv PREFACE. discoveries which I have made on this excursion, have richly rewarded me ; and I am led to believe that the materials for the historian, the philologist, and the lover of art, which I have rescued from the ruins I visited, will be found of no inconsiderable value. The geogra- pher will see that I have mapped the interior of the country, which hitherto has been unknown, and left blank in the maps : for the coast I am indebted to the admirable Survey of Captain Beaufort. In this small province I have discovered the remains of eleven cities not denoted in any map, and of which I believe it was not known that any traces existed. These eleven, with Xanthus and Tlos described in my former Journal, and the eleven other cities along the coast visited by former travellers, make together twenty- four of the thirty-six cities mentioned by Pliny as having left remains still seen in his age. I also observed, and have noticed in my Journal, many other piles of ruins not included in the above numbers. Many of the coins which I have found,, and of which I give copies in the following pages, were before un- known to the nuinismatist, and others will enable him to assign place and date to coins in various museums, which have before been unexplained or erroneously attributed. Of the beautiful sculptures and coloured bas-reliefs PREFACE. V found among the ruins, I have brought away numerous drawings, with which my Journal is illustrated. Some of the inscriptions, of which I took copies on this tour, are of great value, as supplying a key to the hitherto unknown Lycian language, and others are im- portant as bearing upon, and in some instances eluci- dating very curiously, questions of remote history. To Mr. Hermann Wiener I have great pleasure in ex- pressing my acknowledgments for his translations of the numerous Greek inscriptions which I copied ; as I have to my friend Mr. Daniel Sharpe, for his paper on the Lycian inscriptions. I have also to thank Pro- fessor Don for kindly furnishing me with the names and classes of the plants which I collected, many of which he describes as of species hitherto unknown. C. F. London, April, 1841. LIST OF PLATES. A PORTION OF THE BAS-RELIEFS AT CADYANDA ... to face Titie. MAP OP SOUTH OF ASIA MINOR to face page I MAP OF LYCIA 1 TEMPLE OF VENUS AT APHRODISIAS 33 TOMB NEAR MYLASA 76 FOUR STYLES OF SEPULCHRAL ARCHITECTURE PECULIAR TO LYCIA 104 BAS-RELIEFS ON TOMB AT CADYANDA 116 TOMB AT CADYANDA 118 VARIETIES OF ROCK ARCHITECTURE IN LYCIA 128 VARIETIES OF BUILT TOMBS IN LYCIA 128 BUILDINGS IN THE VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS 129 TOMBS SCULPTURED FROM THE ROCK IN IMITATION OF WOODEN BUILDINGS 130 WITHIN THE PORTICO OF ROCK-TOMB AT TLOS 136 PORTICO OF ROCK-TOMB AT PINARA 141 BAS-RELIEF REPRESENTATIONS OF THE ANCIENT CITY WITHIN THE PORTICO OF TOMB AT PINARA 142 TOMB AT SIDYMA 155 FIGURES AT THE ENDS OF SARCOPHAGUS-TOMB AT XANTHUS . 166 vm LIST OF PLATES. THE FOUR SIDES OF THE OBELISK AT XANTHUS . to face page 168 SCULPTURE ON OBELISK-TOMB AT XANTHUS 170 FRAGMENTS AT XANTHUS 173 FRAGMENTS AT XANTHUS 174 PART OF A FRIEZE AND THREE SIDES OF A TOMB AT XANTHUS 176 FRAGMENTS OF SCULPTURE AT XANTHUS 177 ENDS OF SARCOPHAGI, PEDIMENTS, AND DOORS OF TOMBS . . 187 PEDIMENT OVER,. AND SCULPTURE WITHIN, THE ROCK-TOMB AT MXRA 197 ROCK-TOMB AT. MYRA 198 FIGURES ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF TOMB 198 COLOURED BAS-RELIEFS WITHIN THE PORTICO OF THE TOMB AT MYRA 198 ROCK-TOMBS NEAR THE THEATRE. AT MYRA 200 ROCK-TOMBS WITH BAS-RELIEF AT MYRA 200 BAS-RELIEF OVER ROCK-TOMBS 207 BAS-RELIEF OVER TOMB AT LIMYRA 207 SCULPTURED FIGURES ON TOMB AT LIMYRA 209 RARE OR INEDITED COIN^ 284 RARE OR INEDITED COINS 285 LYCIAN ALPHABET 443 COINS WITH LYCIAN CHARACTERS 455 INSCRIPTIONS IN LYCIA .468 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Page Smyrna — Climate — ^Bazaars — Horses — Provisions — Ball— Road to Thera, the ancient Caystrus — Passage of the Mountains to Idin, the ancient IValles — ^Tahir Pasha — ^his Museum— Inscrip- tions — ^Valley of the Mseander — Sultan Hiss(f — Soldiers — An- tiocheia — the Valley of the Mosynus — Karasoo — to Yeerah. the ancient Aphrodisias 1 CHAPTER n. The ancient Aphrodisias — ^Temple of Venus — Pagan Age — Chris- tian Age — Present State — Sarcophagi — Natural History — Ka- rasoo — Arrival of the New Firman or Code of Laws — Conse- quent Changes — Return to the Valley of the Mseander — ^The River Harpasus — Passage of the Mountains — Valley of the Marsyas 32 CHAPTER III. Arab Hisst^, ancient Alabanda — Ruins — Demmeerge-derasy, an- cient Alinda — Tombs — Ruins — Passage of the Mountains — Unknown Ruins — Mylasa — Temple of Labranda [?] — Ancient Remains — Mausoleum 54 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Stratoniceia, its Ruins — Route to Moolah — Ancient Tombs — The Pasha — Longevity — Change in the Laws — Detention among the Peasants — Music — Dancing — Customs — Passage of the River — ^DoUomon 80 CHAPTER V. Inconvenience for want of Com — Ancient Tombs — Customs of the People — Peculiar Architecture — Discovery of Calynda — Natural History— Telmessus— Tombs, Works of Art — Pecu- liar Climate — Hoozumlee — its Inhabitants — State of the Arts among the ancient Lycians — Discovery of Cadyanda — its Ruins — Valley of the Xanthus — Hoorahn — Ancient Tombs and Ruins, probably of the ancient Massicytus 100 CHAPTER VI. Architecture; Rocks, Buildings, Cottages, Granaries — Tlos — Rock-Tombs — Ancient Sculpture — Minara, the ancient Pi- nara — Ruins — Bas-reliefs in Tombs — Habits of the People . . 128 CHAPTER, VII. Discovery of Sidyma — its Tombs — Temples — Natural History — Lions — Ancient Fort — Xanthus — Sarcophagus-Tomb — Ly- cian Inscription upon Obelisk — Ancient Sculptures — Harpies — Chariots — Animals — Processions — Tomb — Customs of the Peasants ; 151 CHAPTER VIII. Patara — Coins — Passage of Mountains — Discovery of the an- cient Phellus — Antiphellus — its Tombs — Kastelorizo, the an- CONTENTS. xi -Page cient Megiste — Jewels and Costume of the Peasantry — Cas- sabar — Ancient TrabaJa ?^-Singular gorge in the 'Mountains — Myra — Tombs — Sculptures — Difficult Passage of Mountain — Ancient Isium ?— -Limyra — Ruins, Tombs, and Sculptures. 179 CHAPTER IX. Ruins of Myra — Tombs — Coloured Bas-reliefs — Ruins — ^Passage of Mountain to Phineka — Ancient Isium? — Limyra — Scul- ptures and Inscription: — Ancient Bridge — Gagse — Excursion by the Promontarium Sacrum to Olympus — A deserted Village — Valley of the Arycandus — Tombs — Ruins — Discovery of Arycanda — its Ruins 196 CHAPTER X. Avelan — ^its Lake — ^Extensive Plains — Disappearance of a River — Almalee — its Population — Mosques — ^Trade — Ancient Site, probably Podalia — Source of Rivers — Passage of Mountain — High Plains — ^The YeeUassies — Annual Migration of the Tribes — ^Valley of the Xanthus — Macry 227 CHAPTER XI. Rhodes — City of Rhodes — Sailors — Lavisse — Carmylessus — Re- turn to the YeeUassies — Review of Lycia 243 CHAPTER XII. Gule-Hissrf-ovassy — A large Lake — Ancient River Calbis — Ex- tensive Plains — Carreeuke — its Bazaar — Price of Cattle — Cus- toms of the People — Denizlee — its Inhabitants — Change of Law — Laodiceia — Hierapolis — Return to Smyrna 256 xu CONTENTS. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. Page Some Results arising from the Investigation of the Lycian In- scriptions — ^Origin of the Language — Date obtained — ^its Im- portance in elucidating Ancient History — Suggestions for the Future Researches of Travellers 272 List of Coins, and whence they were obtained, together with Plates of many rare or inedited ones " 280 List ob Plants seen or collected during the Journey, with Re- marks upon them by Professor Don 286 A'PPENDIX. Appendix A. — Greek Inscriptions copied during the Journey, and Translations of them by Mr. Hermann Wiener 297 Appendix B. — An Essay on the Lycian Language, elucidating the Characters upon the Coins of the Ancient Inhabitants and many of the Inscriptions brought from Lycia, communicated to the Author by Daniel Sharpe, Esq 427 Index 521 Index to the Greek Inscriptions 526 JOURNAL. CHAPTER I. Smyrna rs- Climate 4 — Bazaars — Horses — Provisions — Ball — Koad tp Thera, the ancient Caystrus — Passage of the Mountains to Idin, the ancient Tralles — Tahir Pasha — his Museum — Inscriptions — Valley of the Maeander — Sultan Hissa — Soldiers — Antiocheia — the Valley of the Mosynus — Karasoo — to Yeerah, the ancient Aphrodisias. Smyrna, February 14th, 1840. — When the Turkish peasant said, as I left this country a year and a half ago, " Mountains never meet, but men may," he ex- pressed an idea of our again meeting, stronger, than I entertained of renewing my visit to. Asia Minor. No- thing but an earnest desire of knowing more of the highly interesting monuments found in this country, and of the natural features peculiar to it, together with the total, absence of any published accounts whence I could obtain such information, would have induced me to wander thus far from the society of friends I so much value, and from the description of civilization to which an European is habituated. I have just left 2 LYDIA. Rome, where, in visiting its museums, which mark the ebbing and flowing of art from the earliest ages, I have wondered at the incomparable distance at which the works of the ancient Greeks stand, raised like the Acropolis of their cities, above the productions of all succeeding ages. How changed is Greece now ! — for I look upon this country, in its earliest ages, as a part of Greece — the present inhabitants knowing nothing of its history, and being entirely ignorant of the arts which distinguished its former people from the rest of the world. In this, now almost unknown part of ancient Greece, three of the seven Wise Men, in the early history of the world, had their birth*. Poetry, History, Fable, and Philosophy, had each their fathers in this countryf. Among the wonders of the world, it boasted its Temple at Ephesus, its Mausoleum in Caria, and its Colossus at Rhodes. The finest work of art, the celebrated Venus, is attributed to this people. The most wealthy of kings J, and the greatest of armies §, arose in this re- gion, and their tumuli remain still undisturbed ||. The sites of its cities are unknown to us ; and even the lan- guage of a considerable portion, abounding with in- scriptions, has hitherto almost escaped the observation of the philologists of Europe. Impressed with this feeUng, and attracted by the natural beauties of the * Thales, Bias, and Pittacus. t Homer, Herodotus, Maop, and Pythagoras. J Croesus. § Xerxes' expedition. || Of Alyattes at Sardis. SMYRNA. 3 country, as well as by the hospitality of its inhabitants, I have returned hither to accumulate information and materials for future study. Smyrna is at this season intensely cold, the distant hills are covered with snow, the wind breWs keenly from the north-east, and the pools in the town are frozen over. English coal, which is amply supplied for the numerous steam-vessels, aiFords the comfort of a fire, as welcome here as on the coldest of our winter days in England. February 26th. — This morning we had intended to quit Smyrna for the interior, but could not obtain horses ; they are promised us for tomorrow morning by six o'clock. The Bazaars are to me always a pleasing lounge ; the variety of trades, the novelty of the articles for sale, the busy scene among the camels and porters, contrasted with the composure of the shopkeeper, who, with his luxurious pipe in his hand, awaits patiently on his cushioned couch the call of a chance customer, offer ceaseless novelty to an European. By the assistance of my companion, Mr. Scharf, I hope to possess many sketches,, to call to mind these scenes ; but the harmo- nious cries of the traders, and the sonorous bells of the passing camels, can be retained only in the memory. The shops for the sale of eatables are very numerous, and mostly for dried fruits and sweetmeats. There are also many for the favourite food of the Turks, which is principally composed from the produce of the dairy. Among the most novel to me was a dish called Moha- B 2 4 LYDIA. - lahbee, a kind of blancmange, which is served in white plates, sifted over with sugar and sprinkled with rose- water ; this hasty-pudding-like substance is made of rice-flour boiled in milk ; it is semi-transparent, and in consistency like blancmange. Saloop is also much sold about the streets, as well as kymac, youghoort, and all kinds of curd, cream, and miJk, flavoured with scents of various kinds. The total absence of shops for the sale of stimulants, of spirituous or fermented liquors, still continues a striking feature to an European. Thursday, February 27th. — No horses came this morn- ing as promised, and we waited until four in the after- noon before we could even be assured of obtaining, them for tomorrow morning : these are to be hired horses, at the rate of one dollar (4s. 4d.) a day, and half a dollar for their return ; even more than this was expected, and we have had to collect them from various small pro- prietors. We should not be able to obtain them from the Post, for which we are prepared with all the powers of a firman from Constantinople, for four days, several Governors being now detained awaiting the return of horses from other expeditions. The greatest inconve- nience is now felt from the want of horses in Smyrna, where the supply is very limited, although a few years ago the town abounded with them ; but the establish- ment of steam-vessels has superseded the more than daily lines of Tartars hence to Constantinople. Scarcely any horses are now kept for the service of the post, the ordinary demand being very trifling. SMYRNA. 5 Another great pecuniary inconvenience has arisen since I was last here, but it will probably be temporary. Smyrna is now the market for the combined fleets of several nations, stationed in her gulph ; at Vourlah are five English ships of war, and one here : the French have six, and the Austrian three, lying in front of the town of Smyrna ; these bring an additional population of many thousand consumers. Meat, poultry, eggs, game, butter, and indeed all provisions, are four and five times the price they were two years ago. The charges at the inns are more than doubled, as well as the hire of horses for riding about the neighbourhood, in consequence of the demand occasioned by the oflScers of the navy. The appearance, and I fear the morals, of the " Frank town" — the designation of the quarter near the sea, which is occupied by Franks of all nations — are also much changed by the immense number of French sailors, who seem to be allowed to spend their days on shore : hundreds are each evening reeling into their crowded boats, and many, too much intoxicated to- walk, are put on board by their less drunken mates. This irregularity has caused the total absence of our sailors from Smyrna ; for a few weeks ago they resented an affront received from some French sailors, and, although double their own number, so severely treated them, that it was thought better they should not come again in contact while such disorder prevailed among the sailors of that nation. The Austrian seamen ap- pear to be under much better discipline. b LYDIA. On Tuesday last, Prince Frederick of Austria gave the people of Smyrna a ball at their Casino, which was en- larged for the occasion by the erection of temporary rooms, formed of sails and flags, upon the terraces of the building. Everything was done by the prince most handsomely and liberally, but the Smyrnese want of taste and style was very apparent. The great redeeming feature was the elegance and splendour of the costumes of the ladies, who generally appeared in the Greek dress, which does not seem overloaded by the costly addition of jewels and embroidery ; the wearers are also particularly good-looking. Among the Frank popu- lation, a study of dress is on all occasions a marked characteristic of the females of Smyrna. This must be observed by every passer through their streets : at every window and doorway is seen, at all hours of the day, a fully-dressed head, ornamented with flowers or jewels. Determined not to delay the commencement of our expedition another day, I made arrangements for the men and eight horses to join us in the morning at Boojah, a village composed of houses of the Frank merchants, to which we walked, passing the Caravan Bridge at four o'clock, on Thursday the 27th of Fe- bruary. Instead of turning to the south-east or to the right hand, soon after crossing the bridge, we con- tinued on the road which led eastward, lengthening our walk by passing through Cooklajah and over the moun- tain to Boojah, and enjoying the splendour of the view Smyrna to caystrus. 7 of Smyrna and its lovely bay, carried into the moun- tains by the most luxuriant valleys. It was seven o'clock, and quite dark, before we arrived at the small inn recently opened by our landlord of the Navy Hotel at Smyrna. Friday, February 28th. — Our horses arrived at eight o'clock, and we started, returning nearly half the way to Smyrna, to join the route leading up the valley to- ward the south-east, the same road as that to Ephesus. On our right lay the pretty village of Sideecooe, on our left that of Boojah: for many miles the country is scan- tily cultivated with mulberry-trees, but much of the land is capable of far greater produce ; the alluvial soil of the valley is deep, and of a nature to grow excellent corn. The spring had scarcely as yet unfolded a single leaf; only a few anemones of various colours sparkled among the bushes, and one or two creeping plants* were blossoming on the winterly stems of the wild pear-tree. By half-past twelve o'clock we had ridden six post hours, or about twenty-three miles, and arrived at Tri- andeer, a few huts on the bank of a river, which we had previously crossed about six miles from this place. We here learned that our baggage, which had kept the direct road from Smyrna, and which we fancied was before us, had not yet passed. We therefore waited an hour at the cafe, which, with an adjoining hut, frequently serves as a halting-place on the first day's * Clematis cirrhosa (Evergreen Virgin's Bower). 8 LYDIA. journey towards Idin. Biendeer, the place of our de- stination for the evening, was still distant seven hours. About five miles on the way, the track lay through several Turkish burial-grounds, each containing remains of ancient sculptured marbles — columns, cornices, and squared stones ; upon one was the following inscription : M ANTON I V^ NICEPHORV^ MAPKOZANTONIOZ NIKH«|)OPOZ* which could not have been moved far from its original site. Its first intention may have been to commemo- rate the course of a great conqueror; at present it marks the grave of some unknown Yourook, or herds- man, whose race occupy the black goats-hair tents scat- tered over the widely extended plains. The country for several hours before us was perfectly level, forming as it were an immense lake, bounded on the south by the long range of Mount Messogis, whose promontory (the ancient Trogilium), with its detached island of Sa- mos, is concealed by the ranges of intervening hills rising behind the ancient Colophon and Teos in the west. To the east the range of Mount Tmolus rises, with its barren crags capped with snow. Perhaps no valley in the world would produce more than this if well cultivated. The quantity of olives grown on the sloping base of the mountains is very great, but the * " Marcus Antonius Nioephoros." CAYSTRUS. 9 rich plains are abandoned to the scattered sheep or goats, and in the more swampy parts the buflfalo is seen wallowing in the marshes. Before eight o'clock, after a ride of nearly fifty miles upon the same horses, we arrived at Biendeer, a town which seems only occupied in crushing the produce of the surrounding forest of olive-trees. The oil from this district ranks high in the Smyrna market ; and this, as well as other articles of merchandize sold there, has within the last three years risen to four times the price formerly paid. February 2^th. — The situation of Biendeer, a large Turkish village with four minaretted mosques, is very beautiful, commanding a view of the wonderfully fine valley in which we travelled yesterday, and across which our road continues today, to the large town of Thera, about eleven miles distant, which is distinctly visible to the S.S.E. on the steep side of the Messogis mountain. Saturday Evening. — I have just returned to my room in the picturesque Greek khan at Thera. What a country we have passed through today ! — teeming with produce, and promising a still greater abundance to more active cultivation. For three oc four miles before we crossed the rive? Caystrus, the plains were covered with the stems of la|t year's cotton plants, and the rich soil is again yielding to agricultural implements* of the same form as those which tilled it more than two * See Journal of 1838, pp. 70 and 333. 10 LYDIA. thousand years ago ! while the seeds of another crop are scattered over it. Crossing the very considerable river by a newly built bridge, the land gradually rises, and is well cultivated with corn ; and ascending still further up a slight range of rocky mounds, we found them covered with vines and in high cultivation. These continued, as we travelled over this undulating ground, until we arrived in front of the long and beau- tifully situated town of Thera, the minarets of whose mosques (of which we counted twenty-eight) are scat- tered over a range of nearly two miles. This town, which occupies the site of the ancient Caystrus, is built on so steep an acclivity, that almost every house is visible, peering above its neighbour's roof ; the cypress and plane, of splendid growth, enrich the whole extent of the place. In the streets, as is often the case in Turkish towns, are rapid streams of water, up which we rode, and crossed several well-stored bazaars. The most striking articles exposed for sale were the largest grapes I ever saw ; these are grown in the neighbourhood in great quantities, for the making of raisins, which, from being sent to the port of Smyrna, acquire the name well known in our shops of Smyrna raisins : each grape is as large as a nutmeg, and on send- ing a man with a piastre and a half (not quite 3^d.) , to purchase some for us, he returned with two okes and a half — about seven pounds weight. Each bunch is plaited with a cord of rushes, and in the manufacture of raisins these strings of fruit are dipped into boihng CAYSTRUS. 1 1 water several times, and then hung up in cool cellars for three months ; when taken down they are fit for the market. Our whole route from Smyrna has been crossing or following valleys ; no hill, excepting a slight rise out of the town of Smyrna, has interrupted our course. In this tract the geologist finds little to interest him ; the soil is alluvial, and generally mixed. with stones, the debris of the neighbouring mountains, which vary from the simple marble limestone to the tortuous slaty stone, shivered by volcanic heat, and glittering with schisty micaceous particles. The castle hill, near Smyrna, is an igneous rock of spurious granite ; several tracks of bare rock on the valley are composed of massed pebbles or pudding-stone, probably of recent formation. The soil is generally hght, but near the immediate valley of the Caystrus it is a simple sand, of considerable depth, with scarcely a pebble. Thera stands on a range of moun- tain limestone, much baked and distorted by volcanic powers, and frequently veined with a crystallized white marble or quartz-like substance, often tinged with ferru- ginous colouring. I have added several plants to my collection, but none strike me as peculiar to this di- strict. I see the black Iris in the turbans and hands of the peasants, but have not yet gathered it myself; the Christ's-thorn and a kind of broom, form the bushy tufts of the country. On Sunday, the 1 st of March, we started at nine o'clock for Idin ; our cavalcade consisted of two Zoo- 12 LYDIA. rigees, men who have the charge of the horses and the three loads of baggage. I followed, with my friends Mr. Hesketh and Mr. Scharf, attended by Pagniotti Mania, as servant and dragoman* ; and in the rear was a Kezann, or officer of the police, well mounted and superbly armed. This addition to our train was insisted upon by the Governor as a guard of honour :_ I wished to decline it as unnecessary, but he said that the roads were in a dangerous state, (meaning from the late rains, I believe,) and that we had better have assistance in case of need. Thus, with ten horses, we commenced our route up the narrow streets, which are so steep that many literally rise in steps. On arriving a Uttle above the town we paused, as such trains are often obliged to do, to re-arrange the From this point we had a fine view of this curi- ously situated and extensive city ; its position is highly picturesque, and resembles the other ancient sites now occupied by the modern towns of Manser and Kootrfya; they all face the north. Although- this is doubtless the site of Caystrus, scarcely a trace of the ancient city is to be found ; a few columns and capitals of white marble, built into the walls, are all that remain to tell of the former important city. An ascent through * Pagniotti Mania was an honest and industrious servant, and well acquainted with the habits and requirements of the English, having been several years cook on board the Tribune ship of war, as well as in English families. CAYSTRUS TO TRALLES. 13 woods of olive-trees showed another abundant source of wealth to this people, so highly favoured by nature. Our route lay directly to the south, and we breasted the steep ascent most boldly. I have never, excepting on this same range, in the pass from the ancient Priene over the Trogilium promontory, ascended so steep a track ; in many instances we were obliged to tack at every twenty yards, doubling our own course ; afford- ing those in the rear a collective view of our diversi- fied cavalcade, all in slow motion, and shifting as the objects in a kaleidescope. One of our party, dis- mounting to collect some plants, had left his horse to keep its place in the train; but cutting across an angle in the road, it thrust itself between the baggage- horses, which were connected by cords : this checked them, and as the narrow grip worn in the rock was scarcely wide enough for their feet to pass each other, they all stumbled, and fell in confusion. My expe- rience told me that our progress was stayed for fully an hour. Our Turk Kezann was also aware of this, for he immediately dismounted, and, sitting on the rock, prepared his pipe for an hour's repose and meditation on the interruption. The poor animals were unloaded, and with difficulty lifted up ; a few cuts, and slight ex- haustion from struggling, were all the ill effects beside the delay. During our detention we were passed by a Turkish family travelling towards Idiu : the female of the party afforded the annexed subject for the pencil. 14 LYDIA.. Two hours of uninterrupted ascent brought us to the summit of this splendid range of mountains. Turning to the north-west, to review our route, we saw the hills of Smyrna over the uninterrupted level of the valleys we had crossed. On our right lay the fine range of Mount Tmolus, partially concealing Mount Sipylus at its western extremity, and between these ranges lay Sardis and Philadelphia. On our left rose the high mountains at the back of Colophon and Teos, and still nearer were the hills concealing the ancient and re- nowned city of Ephesus. Immediately below lay the productive valley down which winds the river Caystrus, circling the hiUs and finding its way to the sea in front of Ephesus. Icicles were around us, and snow covered the higher peaks on either side of our pass. The TRALLES. 15 mountain is composed entirely of a slaty schist, veined with a quartz-like substance, at times almost of an agaty semi-transparent stone, the whole much contorted and shivered with volcanic heat. Two hours of rapid descent brought us within sight of a point that highly interested me. We were travelling along ridges of mountains so perfectly hog-backed, that a stone dropped from either hand would have rolled into different valleys ; from these abrupt elevations the whole nature of the country was visible. On the soil which clothed the hills upon which we stood, and which we had traversed, not a green leaf was seen, unless olives may be called green ; the chestnut and dwarf-oak trees were brown with the dead leaves of last year ; all others were grey with the naked branches of winter. About two miles before us appeared a distinct line marked with a slight valley, cut by the increasing stream from the mountains, beyond which all was green ; and the red, broken and rotten-looking cliffs, seen through the woods of fir-trees, at once reminded me of the peculiarity I had noticed in the hills lining and flanking the mountains on the northern side of the valley of the Mseander. I now discovered that this mass of deposited gravel and sand formed a belt of at least ten miles in width. As we approached, we saw that it had the other peculiarities of being cavernous, and varying in its colours and component parts. Continuing our passage of the mountain towards the south, we arrived at a comparatively level road, which 16 LYDIA. we followed eastward to the town of Idin. The whole distance from Thera can only be reckoned by time, and the journey took us eight hours, two hours of ascent and six hours of descent, and this necessarily at a very slow pace. The geological peculiarities did not engage my attention sufficiently to prevent my admi- ration of the splendid scenery, which we should have enjoyed more had daylight continued longer ; but even- ing closed upon us before we arrived at Idin at seven o'clock. I today recognised the clear and sonorous chirp of the Bee-eater hovering over the fir-trees, and the sweet song of the Bunting* ; several of the small white vultures were also soaring high above our heads. March 2nd. — Idin is at present like a large builder's yard ; almost the whole of the bazaars are rebuilding, and scarcely a street is passable. I have spoken in my former Journal of the town ; it has lost much of its beauty by the difference of season, as the numerous trees in the streets are now without their leaves. I have seen more of its antiquities, which chiefly consist of the various marbles and coins found daily upon the hill overhanging the present town, and upon which stood the ancient Tralles ; the most conspicuous build- ing that now remains is the ruin of the Palaestra or Gymnasium. I have before noticed this as having materials of much older buildings worked up in its formation, several of which have inscriptions in the * * Emberiza melanocephala (Blackheaded Bunting). TRALLES. 17 Greek language. This morning, with the aid of a tele- scope and with considerable difficulty, I copied the fol- lowing, which is high up in the building. I fear it is too imperfect to be of service. MHCENMAYA.^#.APEE:rON BOYAAPKH ENNTAArOPANoyH EANTAEI PBNVl CN CAN CA CT TH'HEANFAIKAnPOTI. ALArONII^^A H ENOM-N C 1 1 rCN EOAIHH ^MM. IsnON^^TTACIKPATIABOYAH PANTI CEETI N M n ErEITIOYOVfrN nPONOHEMENOYTI-EANACTACE OCTOYANAPIANTOCMAYPrnrHPI XOYTOYYIOYAYTOYBOYAH CAH MOYrEPOYCIACrPAMMATEOr * At Smyrna I had heard much of the statues disco- vered and preserved by Tahir Pasha, and of persons * The four last lines inform us, that M. Aurel. Gogerichus [Sote- ricus ?], a Secretary to the Council, the People and the Gerusia, super- intended the erection of a statue in honour of his father, whose name, according to the second line, seems to be M. Aurel. Arestus. The first part of the inscription mentions the honorary decree of the Coun- cil and the People, and then follow doubtless some of the titles, which appear in two other Trallian inscriptions published by Colonel Leake (Diary, pp. 339. 340). We can distinguish those of Bularches (Presi- dent of the Council ?), Agoranomos (Superintendent of Markets, like the Aedilis of the Romans), Eirenarches and Strategos (Praetor or President). ' , 18 LYDIA. who had travelled thence to see them : how strange it seems that such specimens as the following should alone he prized, when the country is rich in the works of the ancient Greeks ! Upon two marble blocks, apparently pedestals, which are now built into the wall on either side of the entrance to the Pasha's house, are bas- reliefs of a low age, probably Byzantine, or perhaps as late as the Crusades : they each have a superscription. OnYKI€ICAIIOMAKIC€l- leMYAABeNOYACICMOIPA i€n€npoTorAPOYTi2ce AAAMAICIN€M€NNeKYN NeATA<|)HNAI TRALLES. 19 On the other side of the door is a somewhat sihiilar pedestal, with this inscription : OirANN€IKHCACAAeNI^ A6MOI PAKPATA I H H FAPe NKAINYNTYNBYCmPOKeiMAI€CXT€ BIOTOYX€IPCINONIAICAMAPANTO * These were found only a few months ago, as well as several broken statues, which are preserved with great care by the Pasha, who is anxious to acquire the Euro- pean taste for such things ; at present a well- sculptured eagle, which has lost its own head, is supplied with that of a female figure. Beneath the eagle is the following inscription : AiorENHzoper^ OZ0EX1AIIEYXA IZTHNTOYTOYZ AYAETOYZANE GHKEt ' The whole of the antiquities found here are of a base Roman age : the coins are very numerous, but among * The little we can make out in these two inscriptions, which seem in some way to correspond with each other, shows that they were consecrated to the honour of warriors, or a warrior " conquered by fate," and perhaps buried near the spot. Judging from the last lines, they were written in hexameters ; in the second inscription we may trace several verses, not altogether unintelligible, but are unable to connect them. t Translation. — " Diogenes Orthios has gratefully consecrated these two eagles to the god Jupiter." c 2 20 LYDIA. hundreds brought to rae I have not seen one of the ancient Greek: they are generally of the Byzantine empire, and have monograms and effigies of saints upon them. I fear I have been rude to the Pasha, but his too great attention almost merits the same charge. My object for travelling is to see the people and the country, its na- tural history, and its remains of ancient art, and not to waste time and money in visiting the higher classes, whose attempts to act the European rather disgust than amuse. I was told by my Smyrnese friends that I must take a letter of introduction to Tahir Pasha, as he was one of the most powerful and enlightened men in the country — an excellent fellow, who speaks Italian, drinks champagne, smokes cigars, dances, and wears white-kid gloves ! I explained, that to pay a visit to him would not accord with my"plans, for, as a traveller, my time was limited and my wardrobe scanty, and I received the letter without any intention of using it ; notwithstand- ing this, I found that my arrival had been anticipated by the Pasha, and on my applying for horses to leave the town, he sent word that he had been expecting me some days, and that I must come and stay with him. I returned an answer, regretting that my haste in pass- ing through the town would prevent my doing myself that honour, and sent many civil acknowledgments for his kindness ; he again sent to beg me to come to him, but I was from home. The servant asked for horses, but the Pasha told him that no answer would be given NYSA. 21 until the next day, evidently wishing to detain me ; ob- serving at the same time, that English lords and great princes had visited him, and that I ought to come to stay at his palace ; but I much preferred our humble but independent khan. During his absence from the palace, I went up and saw his few relics in the garden, and left my thanks and apologies for not calling upon his Ex- cellency, adding as my excuse that I had no costume fit to wear in his presence. About eighty piastres were greedily swallowed by the begging servants on this occa- sion. After detaining us for want of an order for horses until two o'clock the following day, we at last made an escape without a visit of form. March 3rd. — ^The day being so far spent, we have only journeyed twelve miles, to the small village of Keosk, where I copied from a pedestal in the burial- ground the following inscription : ZEB AZTON rEPM AN I KON I AYTOKPATOPA *0EON IKAniEPflZE V/i/Mt EniMEAH0ENTOZJ Tl BEPIOYKAAYAIOYN EPONOZOYZ TKYPEI N^l EBOKAEOYO*! AOPMZAZOZ ArNOY YIOYnOAEOZ > — < * * We can decipher only the three first and the four last lines with cer- tainty. In the fourth there was probably the name of the corporation 22 LYDIA. On the evening of the 4th we proceeded eight miles, to Sultan Hissed, which lies about a mile on the left of the road : leaving the horses at the village, we walked about two miles further up the hill, to examine the ruins of an ancient city, supposed to be Nysa, a mile above which lies the modern village of Esky Hissa. The ruins are interesting ; they show distinctly the form of a theatre, facing tlie south ; and many of the seats, with overhanging mouldings, still remain. The theatre, as well as the general situation of the city, is a stri- king instance of the selection by the ancient Greeks of a site for their theatres commanding extensive and beautiful views. The prospect was here exquisite : in front, on either hand, stood the ornamental buildings of the city, form- ing a vista which embraced a view of richly-wooded hills, divided by rapid streams, hastening to a valley un- rivalled in luxuriant vegetation. Through this runs the " winding Mseander," visible for upwards of fifty miles, and making as many curves in its meandering course. •who " consecrated [the statue of] Nero Claudius Augustus Germanicus, the Emperor and God." This is the emperor known to us by the name of Nero, who, like many others, was in his lifetime styled God by Gre- cian flattery. In the last lines are the names of Tiberius Claudius Nero, being however not those of the emperor, but of the person who " superintended the erection — Hierocles, the son of Philormas [or Philoromaeus], belonging to the Roman tribus Quirina, and an hon- ourable son of the city," i. e. presented, as it were by adoption, with its freedom. NYSA. 23 The whole of the scene is bounded by the mountains of Caria, many at this time capped with snow. A stream originally ran through an arched passage under the theatre, and another building, probably a stadium, in front; but much of this subterranean course had fallen in, rendering the broken arch and walls on either side an accumulated mass of ruins. I found but one inscription, and that was in the village below, of which the following is a copy : AIAIONIOYAIONHPC EYBOYAIANONVnATI KAI CYN KAHTI KWVJ CVn AIAIAAABIAErNAT KAHETWAEINA HAZIOAOrwTATH TONEAYTHCCYNBIC * From Sultan Hissrf, called by the Greeks Heliopolis, we rode for twelve miles to Naslee, the whole country from Idin being a continued succession of orchards and fields of corn. The soil is light, and the roads are perfectly flat : for many miles they serve as the courses for the water drawn off from the mountain-streams for the purposes of irrigation. Scarcely a quarter of a mile in the whole distance is without some wrought stone * Translation. — " Aelia Flavia Egnatia Capitolina, the most illus- trious [erects tWs to the memory of] Aelius Julius Eubulia- nus [?] of a consular and senatorial family, her husband." 24 LYDIA. of a former age ; hundreds of capitals and bases of columns have been converted into well-copings and troughs. Some few appeared of fine workmanship, but the greater number are of a low Roman age. March 6th. — We were detained the whole of yesterday hourly waiting for horses ; for the establishment of the Post had been drained for the use of some soldiers on their way to Constantinople. It is to be regretted that these naturally peaceable people should not attend more to the cultivation of their country, instead of so industriously learning of the Europeans their vices and arts of war. I have alreadv seen three "Turks in- toxicated, and, with their bottle in hand, still asking for arrack. I observed several young soldiers idling about the village: their costume is worn in a most unbecoming manner ; they are dressed in children's short-waisted jackets, of various colours, but mostly grey ; they have no stocks or shirts, and the white lining of their red fezes is pulled over their ears ; the trousers, which are the peculiar pride of the modernized Turk, are of white, but often so wide in the waist that they drag, and hang loosely round the loins ; the boots, which are yellow, generally dirty, and trodden down at heel, are intended to ^e worn as our Wellington boots; but the Turks always push the loose bottoms of their trousers into them, and walk in their customary slipshod way : the legs also have too long been accustomed to bend out- ward at the knee, in the sitting posture of the Turk, to NASLEE. 25 Straighten themselves at the word of command. The pay to these training-soldiers, who are ever at com- mand, and devote one day in each week to- drill, is twenty-five piastres (4s. 8d.) a month, and a ration of half an oke of bread (nearly a pound and a half), worth half a piastre {l\d.), a day : additional clothes are given when the recruit joins the army at Constantinople. There has been a great market or fair here, and the busy scene was highly amusing ; but from the excessive dirt of the streets, increased by the heavy rains, which wetted us through before our arrival last evening, we could not half enjoy the bustle. While standing amidst the crowd, I copied an inscription from a sarcophagus, ornamented with wreaths and Apollo-like heads, but of a low style of sculpture. KrZAEI AI ATAYTI <> CCn I rPA<|)HEAN n r PAPOKATEOZ N <> N IZTAAIXBI AEI nZTAN VYOYKAAALZAN APOY TOIZNOZriANIoMOYolB * In the afternoon we rambled in search of a clean walk, down the lanes to a village of the same name * TVanslation. — " A copy of this inscription has been deposited in the archives, under the Stephanephorus, Claudius Alexander, on the twelfth day of the month Fanemus." These are the last lines of the usual sarcophagus inscription ; those preceding contained the names of the persons buried, and were proba- bly cut upon the lid, which has been removed. The month of Pane- mus was both in the Macedonian and Ephesian almanacks, and in the latter began on the 24th of May. 26 CARIA. as this, in which the Aga resides. Naslee bears an additional name, indicating its being the mercantile town. The sun shone brightly, and its warmth made the banks by the way-side interesting to the natura- list. The early spring flowers were just bursting, and I added the crocus, hyacinth, heart's-ease and many others to my collection*. Among the fresh green weeds basked a small chameleon ; we watched it, and handled it in its green retreat. The peculiarities of this little creature were novel to some of our party. I there- fore took it into my hand, to show them the revolving motion of the eye ; its colour was then a bright yel- low green ; gradually it burst out in blotches of grey, giving a dull appearance to the whole body. I then placed it on the dark-coloured earth, and in a few seconds its colour was entirely grey, the remaining yel- low spots becoming gradually indistinct. On the grass it soon recovered its primitive hue, and we left it crawl- ing clumsily among the weeds on the sunny bank. A few steps further, one of the beautiful green lizards lay basking, but its quick eye saw us, and with the nervous rapidity so peculiar to it, it sheltered itself among the dead reeds. I was surprised to see a frog also en- joying the sun, avoiding the water, and sitting on the sandy bank : its colour is of the lightest and bright- est green, and it is of a kind I have never seen in * A list of the plants which I collected during my tour will be given in the Appendix. ANTIOCHEIA. 27 Europe. The cimex, and many others of the insect tribe, are adding their happiness to the joys of the season. The birds were not numerous ; several varie- ties of hawks were sailing about or hovering over their prey ; and the favoured storks were flying with sticks to add to their last year's nests, which had remained undisturbed on the chimneys, mosques, or baths of their protector the Turk. From a broken column I also copied the following inscription : AYTOKPA,JTOPA OYEZUMM lANO OAHNOrCI^ lEP* Yehnejah, March 6th. — It was 1 1 o'clock this morn- ing before we could get horses, which has caused us to halt here after a ride of six hours. The direct distance is not more than eighteen or twenty miles, but we have gone out of our way to visit the ruins of what is thought to be the ancient Antiocheia; its situation upon an isolated rock, rising in the centre of the mouth of the valley of the Mosynus, and commanding a view of that of the Mseander, is worthy of the ancient Greeks ; but the ruins now covering and, undermining its sum- mit are not equal to any works attributed to the worst • " The Emperor Vespasianus. The People has consecrated it," — i. e. his statue, which may have heen on the column. 28 CARIA. age of the Romans ; with the exception of the nume- rous arches under the ground, the whole is built of loose stones, as picked up from the mountain. I should say that the city, if it has been one, bears the appearance of having been a camp hastily fortified by a powerful people ; cement is used in some places, but the walls are mostly packed together with loose stones of a small size, all unwrought. I saw but eight or ten squared stones in the whole place ; one fragment of a fluted column of white marble stood a solitary work of art. The ancient river Mosynus is spread over a wide expanse towards the west, which we forded, fearing the muddy swamps more than the depth of the water, which scarcely reached to the knees of our horses. On leaving Naslee, we travelled up the valley for two hours, nearly to the town of Goojak ; then turning off the road, towards the south, we soon found a few huts, forming the village of Andaluh, near the wooden bridge crossing the Mseander; about a mile further, on the southern banks, stands the village of Birlehbay. Travel- ling for two hours to the eastward, and turning up the valley of the Mosynus to the south, we passed a pretty little woody village called Arrachiflee ; from this place the country is rendered unfit for cultivation by the stones and masses of rock rolled down from the schisty slaty mountains forming the western boundary of the valley of the Mosynus. The road from Yehnejah to Karasoo passes for, about twelve miles over an unpro- APHRODISIAS. 29 ductive but highly picturesque country. The Spring is not stirring, and the wind from the east is rendered still more cold by passing over the snows of Mount Cadmus. The hills which vary the road up this valley are of a curious composition ; on the surface the stones are so numerous that the plough is not used ; the beautiful stone-pine and tufts of underwood are almost the only produce, and beneath the surface the hiUs are formed of broken and generally washed or roUed stones, held slightly together by a white limy-looking substance, which appears slacked and crumbling in pieces ; this is occasionally stratified, and then shows layers of a hard flinty kind of opake clay, somewhat resembling the sin- gular layers of chalcedony that I have seen in Phrygia. These hills, from the nature of their composition, are gradually washed away by the mountain-streams, and deep ravines intersect the valley in all directions. These ravines afford a beautiful variety of luxuriant vegetation; the oleander, pomegranate, vine and plane, are in the summer contrasted with the dark green pines on the cliffs above. March 7th. — Karasoo is a large straggling Turkish village, with more than usual activity, from the various trades of the potter, the dyer and bleacher, which seem to be carried on upon every open space in the town. Streams of excellent water, as usual, run through almost every street; but here a clear stream with its deep ravine divides the town, and forms an important tribu- 30 CARIA. tary to the Mosynus, which has its course in the valley about two miles below the town. The name of Kara- soo, meaning ' black water,' is probably given from the appearance of the water in the shadowed ravine, con- trasted with the red or white muddy colour of the water of the Maeander or Lycus. Coins and gems of a late Greek age, and down almost to the time of the Crusades, are oflFered here abundantly for sale, and are all obtained from the neighbourhood of Yeerah, the ancient Aphrodisias, about eight miles distant, which city was our attraction in visiting this district ; but the difficulty of obtaining horses in these small places de- tains us here until tomorrow. Sunday, March 8th. — In traversing the extended val- ley, which at a distance appeared an immense plain, wherein are collected the waters of the Mosynus, we found it varied with considerable hills and very deeply cut dells, formed by the numerous streams. These streams have their mills with overshot wheels, and are shadowed by the enormous arms of the spreading plane- trees : around them is a tract of land generally well cultivated, the whole forming a pleasing variety in this too neglected district. We arrived at Aphrodisias be- fore noon, approaching the city through the district of its tombs : sarcophagi marked the road for the last mile ; and as we entered the gate, so much of interest met the eye, that we determined to remain here some days. The present state of the village is most ruinous ; APHRODISIAS. 31 twenty only out of about a hundred huts are occu- pied, all the others being inhabited by owls ; the soci- able crane seems to have deserted the bundle of sticks piled upon the ruined houses, and a few solitary birds stand, like monuments of melancholy, on the chimneys of their protectors' huts. I hear that there are still two hundred people, including women and children, in the village and neighbourhood, but I have seen scarcely an individual amongst the masses of ruins forming the streets. 32 CHAPTER II. The ancient Aphrodisias — ^Temple of Venus — Pagan Age — Christian Age — Present State — Sarcophagi — Natural History — Karasoo — Ar- rival of the New Firman or Code of Laws — Consequent Changes — Return to the Valley of the Mseander — the River Harpasus — Pass- age of the Mountains — Valley of the Marsyas. Aphrodisias, March lOth. — We have taken possession of a house once attached to that of the Aga, which forms a picturesque object from our window ; its owner has for some years left it to decay. I must endeavour to describe in some degree the interesting objects that detain us here. Aphrodisias lies to the east of the head of the valley which gives rise to the Mosynus, and is beautifully bounded by mountains of considerable importance. Cadmus rises majestically on the east, while the distant summits of Mount Tmolus towering above the range of Messogis, are seen in the north : the elevation of the city above the sea is about a thousand feet, the air healthy and cool, and the water excellent. I see no river or stream, but the old foun- tains are supplied from distant sources in the hills. Aphrodisias is not in appearance the site of an an- APHRODISIAS. 33 tjient Greek city; it lies low, and its principal buildings are not, as usual, elevated above the rest of the town. It is difficult to describe the ruins of this city; I never saw in one place so many perfect remains, although by no means of a good age of the arts. The opinion I shall venture to give is founded wholly upon my ob- servation of the ruins as they exist, in perfect ignorance of any historical accounts. I have copied many of the inscriptions, and hope to increase my knowledge by their after-examination. On this site I see no trace either of the position, grandeur of design, or hard style of sculpture, accom- panied with the beauty of simplicity, which so pecu- liarly mark the cities of the early Greeks. In much of the material of the temple, and perhaps in the arrange- ment of many of its columns, may be traced a city probably of a date two centuries before the Christian sera : its stadium on the north side of the city is still magnificent, running from east to west, and having both ends circular ; most of its seats are still remain- ing, and in itself this building alone would repay the trouble of a visit to this city. On the south side is a small hill, artificially formed, probably to contain a thea- tre, the ruins of which face the south-east ; a few foun- dations would lead us to suppose that temples may have ornamented this little acropolis. In the centre of the city stood a beautiful Ionic temple ; fifteen of its white, marble, fluted columns are still standing, and some have tablets left uncut where the shaft was fluted, telling by 34 CARIA. their inscriptions that they were offerings to the temple of Venus or Aphrodite, the goddess to whom the city was dedicated. EYMAXOZAeHNA rOPOYTOYAeHNArO POYTOYEYMAXOYAI OrENHZIAOKAIZAP KAIAMMIAZAIONYZI OYYZIAEAAPAZTOY TOYMOAHNOZOAYN niAZTONKIONAeEA APOAITHKAITn AHMil* These stand, I doubt not, upon their original bases, although from their reversed tablets, the irregular join- ing of the flutes, and several other points, I judge that they have been thrown down and afterwards piled up in their present form. Many other remains, showing different orders of ar- chitecture, in columns and friezes, attest, without doubt, the existence of numerous temples, and indicate a beau- tiful city built wholly. of white marble, large blocks of which are found in all parts of the ruins, many measuring * Translation. — " Eumachus Diogenes Philocsesar, the son of Athe- nagoras, the son of Athenagoras, the son of Eumachus ; and Ammias Olympias, the [adopted] daughter of Dionysius, but by birth that of Adrastus, the son of Molon; [give] this column to the goddess Aphrodite and to the People." APHRODISIAS. 35 nine or ten feet in length. Slabs, probably from the cellas of temples, covered with inscriptions, are used as material to a very great extent. I copied inscriptions from upwards of fifty of these, all of an age perhaps one or two centuries before our sera. The sarcophagi, which extend half a mile to the west, must also rank with this state of the city. A few Greek coins are found in the ruins, but they are very scarce. My next description carries us to an age probably two or three centuries subsequent to the Christian sera. The whole of the temples and public buildings, excepting only the stadium (which, by a wall built across it near the cir- cular end, seems to have been converted into an amphi- theatre) must have been demolished ; for a city arose surrounded by walls two miles in circuit, with gates of triple arches to the west, east, and south : these walls are composed of the remains of temples, tombs, and theatres, removed, although uninjured. The reversed inscrip- tions and inverted bas-reliefs bear testimony to the change ; and the beautiful cornices of Greek Pagan tem- ples are now rudely carved with inscriptions, and placed over the gateways, recording the changed religion and the age in which they were piled up. Even the Pagan name of the city was changed, for in the following in- scription it appears to be called Tauropolis. «|>AKti)CTANTIONTONAAMnPOTATONHrEMONHB OYAHKAIOAHMOCMETATlONAAAWNEPriONKAITO TEIXOCANACTHCANTA^ EniEYTYXIATHCAAMnP d2 36 CARIA. AC TAYPOYnOAITWNMHTPOn KAITOYTOTOEPrO NTHZnYAHCANAINEWeHEniAAMnEAIOYTOYEA AOriMCXKnATPOCINAH^ * The Cross, with the alpha and omega, and other mo- * "The Senate and the People honoured [probably by erecting a sta- tue] the most splendid Flavius Constantius, who. among other works, also rebuilt the wall. For the welfare of the splendid metropolis of the Taurupolitans, the works also about the gate were repaired under Flavius Ampelius, the most distinguished lawyer, and father [of the corporation, viz. its representative in legal affairs], in the eighth year of the Indiction." Given by Boeckh, 2746, The date of the latter inscription we cannot fix, although Francke, who, as we are informed by Boeckh, has very well explained it, thought it was the year a.d. 349-350. The Indictions we know to have begun a.d. 313 ; but there is nothing to show how many of them elapsed before the one in the eighth year of which Ampelius repaired the gate of Aphrodisias-Tauropolis. The name of Tauro- polis, which we see in this and other inscriptions, is also mentioned by Stephanus Byzantinus in connection with Aphrodisias, or rather with Plarasa, a district which formed part of the town. It is uncer- tain which of these names was the original one ; certainly, in Pagan times, when the town derived a great income and celebrity from the festivals in its far-famed temple of Aphrodite, the name of Aphrodisias prevailed, which to the Christians was an indecent one ; they therefore altered it to Tanrupolis, a name which afterwards was changed by some Christian authors into SravpotiVoXis, i. e. the city of the Cross ; from the space preceding the name, this may have been the case in ours. When, afier the time of the above inscription, the festivals of Venus at Aphrodisias, by the exertions of Asclepiodotus Alexandrinus, came again into celebrity (towards the end of the fifth century), the name of Aphrodisias re-appears. APHRODISIAS. 37 nograms used by the early Christians, are the emblems over the gates. Sarcophagi within the walls tell the rr end of many of the wealthy Christian inhabitants ; and others are registered upon the bases and columns of temples which were afterwards used to support Chris^ tian churches ; the title of archdeacon is sculptured in large letters on the fragment of a frieze. In this age the temple of Venus must have undergone great change, I have said that the columns are still standing, and from their proportion, distance and form, I doubt not upon their original bases — but how changed ! The cella has wholly vanished from the interior of the colonnade ; and many of the slabs of marble inscribed with the affairs of the city, each bordered or grooved as those I have seen at Nicaea, are now built into the walls sur- rounding the Byzantine city. A circular end is con- structed of rude stones, closing the east, probably for an altar, where formerly the sun rose on the portico of the pagan temple. Surrounding the whole of this buildr ing, are traces of walls of the same rude workmanship, in which cement was the main support of the construe- 38 CARIA. tion ; and in this line there are still standing several jambs of door- ways, of mean proportion as compared with the old temple ; on these appear Christian em- blems and inscriptions^ The outer colonnade of the Temple of Venus must then have served to form a sup- port to the larger Christian church : at present all is in confused but undecayed ruin. Surrounding this chief church are several other columns, in pairs, supporting architraves of pretty proportions, but perfectly eclipsed by the comparatively gigantic temple of the goddess, whose simple fluted shafts of Greek workmanship dis-" play a beauty not discoverable in the circularly sur- rounding flutes and laboured ornaments of its diminu- tive Byzantine neighbour. Two large tazze, or fonts, ten feet in diameter, and a sitting lion, lie broken among the ruins : I know not to which age these belong. The walls of the town, in their present decay, show better the extent of depredation and size of the former city. than any other remains; it is equally a study for the lover of art, of history, or of morality. The coins found are very numerous, but most of those I saw were of the Byzantine age, and many with Roman inscrip- tions. I have selected some, upon which is the name of this city, Aphrodisias, and others of Plarasa, together with coins of the neighbouring cities of Laodiceia, Phi- ladelphia and Antiocheia, and a few of the early kings of Caria, in silver, which were exceptions to the gene- ral late age of the many brought by the industrious inhabitants of this remnant of a village. APHRODISIAS. 39 I copied the following inscription, which seems in- tended to commemorate a priestess : — H BOYAH KAIOAH MOZETEI MHZANKAIMETHAAAXYI AN KAAYAI AN KAAYAIOyAnOA AUN IOYAPXI EPEIiZOYfATEPA TPY<|>nZAN n AYAEI N AN APXI EPIANAIATETHNTOYnATPO[Z] KAITIiNHPOrONilNAYTHZEIS THNnATPIAAENnAZIIAOTEI M El AN KAIAI AThN EAYTHZKO [Z] M lOTHTAKAAAEI Al EN EN KO [Y] ZANKAITEAEYTHZAZANHAP 0ENONETI * From this. sarcophagus, which stood close by the side of one less ornamented and without inscriptions, we copied the following interesting record, which shows how carefully the owners of the tombs endeavoured to * " The Senate and the People honoured, even when she had de- parted, Claudia Tryphosa Pauleina, the daughter of ApoUonius the high-priest, herself a high-priestess, who, for the sake both of the most honourable zeal of her father and forefathers towards the common weal, as of her own comeliness, was distinguished in praise, and died still a maiden." < z < o z i I a. < < < < z E I z UJ N z a. CJ X UJ z z I < < z 1 1 z P o < < z LU < < c o z UI < i < it. ul h Z i < Z o z LU UJ IC C UJ ? Z g UJ X Z z UJ < z < c z p < UJ < CD < < z g < UJ z I < < Q. < CD < < z X h z UJ p UJ < P < < z UJ UJ Ul p > z c z h Z UJ Z z ul z p li z In z UJ < z Ul UJ Z < X P c N P Z P z s I Ul UJ 2 Z z M UJ CJ t 5 < z UJ < < g z p z 2 X p c < < < z L. z z h < UJ CO Z Ul < Z 2 UJ < Z z o UJ s z h z h z < z a i < z UJ UJ < Z o _ w © Z UJ < < < z s z h z UJ UJ < Z z ut UJ UJ O < Z 2 uJ < z UJ h z p < < z p z < J- < s < E UJ p Z Z 2 < P Z z ul UJ Z Ul < < UJ O Z s p z 2 z h z LU UJ z 5 p z 2 z 2 z < c >- z p UJ - < Z z o UJ i < c UJ I kl Z UJ J UJ H 3 L UJ ^ p 5 c z 2 UJ h CL z a CJ ui UJ' < Z ■< < < z < z ^ < h UJ P Z o c > z < kl UJ u 2 < 2 c z APHRODISIAS. 4] secure their preservation and sole occupancy, and may also add to our knowledge of their construction, and of the technical names of the various portions. These sarcophagi stood upon a stone substructure, too much buried for our examination • but in many others we saw, and in some were able to enter, a low apartment beneath ; this seems to be called here the platas, and to be appropriated to the less honoured individuals of the family. * Translation of Inscription on the preceding page, " The substructure [Platas} is [the property] of Adrastos Polychro- nios, the son of Glykon, the son of Glykon, the son of Leon, the son of Hekatomnon. The substructure that Polychronia, the daughter of Kallikrates gave up to him, on that substructure he built a monu- ment, lying upon the substructure, and both the sarcophagus [Soros'] and the compartments [Isostai] in it, and the other things in it. In that sarcophagus I buried Barilla, my wife ; and likewise I wish my- self to be put into the sarcophagus, but nobody else. Into the first compartment, lying under the sarcophagus, I wish my [second] wife, and Polychronios my son to be buried. But in the other compart- ment I wish to be put Tatianos and Adrastos, my children j but nobody else to be put either into the sarcophagus or into the compartments. But if my heirs, after having put me into the sarcophagus, shall not make fast the bolt, let my heir be the goddess Aphrodite. The trus- tees of the temple for the time being shall institute proceedings about it, who shall be responsible for it. But if, contrary to the directions, anybody shall bury another [in the monument], let him be accursed, and besides pay into the most holy treasury five thousand denaria, of which one-third is to be his, who institutes proceedings ' ." ' Published by Boeckh, 2824, from the manuscript of Sherard, who saw the monument in a more perfect state. 42 CARIA. Some of the sarcophagi of the Byzantine age are richly wrought, and, although many of them are of Christian date, they appear to have retained the Pa- gan devices : at the end of the one represented appears an altar burning in front of a door. al.il^l''^^-. The remaining inscriptions I have copied at Aphro- disias are so numerous, that I shall place them at the end of this volume, in an Appendix. We had provisions with us, and our only want of firewood was supplied by these civil but simple people. It was amusing to see their curiosity when we were copying inscriptions, by beating wet pulpy paper into the hollowed letters in the marble, and allowing it to dry in the sun ; they showed great delight, and soon learned to assist us. I regretted my not understanding the words in which they indicated their surprise, but I read it in their unaffected and expressive countenances. The instruments, and their use in making observations of our latitude and longitude, as well as the taking our altitude by boiling the thermometer, were of course all objects of wonder to them, and I dare say will be long APHRODISIAS. 43 talked of by these simple people*. Three days ap- peared but a short time to remain in this interesting place, but on Wednesday evening, the 11th of March, we were iagain at Karasoo. On the 12th, we remained to arrange for horses for our further travels, and ram- bled for a few miles about the valleys and deeply-cut ravines of the beautiful neighbourhood. In the vege- table world all is still-bound in the chains of winter ; scarcely a flower is seen but the anemone, and a beauti- ful species of fernf , new to me, both of which I have added to my collection. The thermometer has not risen above 34° for several days, and all the rippling streams are frozen at their edges ; but objects of interest may be found in a ramble at all seasons, and the valley or ravine of the Mosynus is not deficient in them. In walking down by the side of the river, I observed streams of water issuing from fissures in the white clifis, and no ice around them. On examination I * I made a series of observations at Aphrodisias, to determine its place on the map. I took a set of double altitudes of the sun about the time of noon, and other sets morning and afternoon to learn the error in the watch, so that the former might be reduced to the me- ridian. Hence we have 37° 36' for the latitude. I also took a set of lunar distances for the longitude, but on my return home I found that, though there may be a doubt whether this city should not be placed even a little more eastward than I have ventured to place it, yet the point in doubt is not great enough i to be lessened by my lunar distances made with a box-sextant. , t Adiantum Capillus Veneris (Maiden-hair Fern). 44 CARIA. found that they were warm springs, and strongly' charged with sulphur : several tributary streams to the crystal waters of the Mosynus were clouded as with milk from these springs, and were long before they became mixed with the purer waters of the river. On further examining the cliffs, I was surprised and pleased to find them similar in many respects to the singular geological formation which I noticed as so abundant in Phrygia. The great mass was of a rotten limestone, which cracked and crumbled as it became exposed to the moisture of the atmosphere. This soft bed is in- terstratified with a harder substance, containing much lime, but of that peculiar clayey or earthy fracture which I observed in Phrygia. I could see here no pu- mice-stone, but found nodules of pure yellow sulphur protruding from the decomposed chalky cliffs ; in other parts were beau tifuL crystals of sulphate of lime or se- lenite : these are continually fractured, and their glit- tering surfaces attracted my attention. The whole of the hills in this valley are of a similar composition, but the surface is generally covered for many feet with a red gravel, containing clay, which is manufactured into the classic forms of antique pottery by the present inhabitants. Probably the peculiarity of the waters in the neighbourhood may also attract the bleachers and dyers, so numerously employed in this valley. March IBth. — The first of March is with the Turks the beginning of the year, and from that date hitherto have commenced the contracts or farmings with the Sultan, KARASOO. 45 for the taxes of the various cities and districts. I have ventured to condemn the principle, but my experience has shown that either the working of it, or other circum- stances, has left a good and happy peasantry; all Turks indeed appear to be contented. The Greeks were, I am aware, oppressed by the different governors with heavier taxes, and were treated as a conquered people ; but, on the other hand, they escaped the trouble and annoyance of personal service as citizens. When we left Karasoo, the newly appointed Aga (or, as he is always called in eastern countries, Arrdh) had not arrived from Constantinople. Up to this period the chief person of the place was generally appointed its governor, and if no complaint were lodged against him for extortion or general ill-conduct, he, as a matter of course, received his engagement from the government, — his own conduct thus being kept in check by the humblest of the subjects of the Sultan, who is at all times accessible. The whole system is this week altered; the tree of liberty is to be planted, and the reform com- menced by the late Sultan in Constantinople is to be adopted throughout his dominions. This change was working its way too tediously by the old system of ap- pointing local governors ; the present Sultan therefore, from this time, takes the whole of the revenues of his kingdom into his own hands, and sends from Constan- tinople tutored strangers, with fixed salaries, to collect his taxes and to carry out his new system. I doubt not that this will effect his intention ; the result T can- 46 CARIA. not foresee ; but it is to be feared, that, like the attempt to imitate the more superficial part of our European customs, it will under the appearance of the good retain much of our more tempting vices. He was a bold man who first ploughed up the green pasture and made the earth fallow, and his faith must have been great when he buried his good grain in the ground. On the horses arriving to carry our baggage from Yeerah, we first heard of the arrival of the new Aga, and of his having read publicly the firman or code of regu- lations. The changes introduced were the subject of conversation among all the groups we saw collected on our arrival at Karasoo. New laws are important things, for their non-observance creates new crimes. An instance of this stood first on the new code. The for- mation of an army is a new thing in this country, and it has been required that each district should supply a certain number of soldiers, to be sent to Constantinople or elsewhere. This law, to a peaceable and indigenous peasantry, alarmed many families, and the shepherds' sons, as I had witnessed in several instances two years ago, were frightened at our approach, fearing that we were coming to take them for soldiers. This fear has driven many for a time from their houses into the mountains, or other villages ; it became therefore requi- site (if the formation of an army is requisite, after so many centuries without one,) to prevent this by some law not found in the Koran- — a code of laws which is instilled into the very heart of the citizen and follower KARASOO. 47 of the Prophet. Fifty police soldiers or patrol were ordered for this valley of the Mosynus, to scour the mountains, and a pass-paper or passport is to be taken by every person removing from his village. The next order which puzzled the Turk was si strict injunction that the Greek was to be treated as a brother, and that no distinction whatever should legally exist in the treatment of the people of the various na- tions subject to the Porte. The taxes which have hitherto fallen with tenfold weight on the more indus- trious Greek, who is generally poor, or at least has no visible property in flocks or lands, is now to be levied upon property, or so much a head upon all the flocks ; on sheep and goats, for instance, one piastre is to be paid annually for each, and the new system thus at once places the taxation almost wholly upon the richer Turk. Two boys had quarrelled in our khan ; one injured the other, and was taken before the new governor. The boy was bastinadoed until he was unable to bear more, and was waiting until he was sufficiently recovered to receive the remaining number of stripes written in the law against his ofience. A requisition was sent by the leading people of the place, the friends of the boy, to beg a mitigation of the sentence ; but the Aga, for the first time in Turkey, avowed that he had in himself no power — he was merely the passive agent of the law. The ostentatious carrying of arms, hitherto the pride and ornament of the Turk, is forbidden, and no persons are now allowed to possess arms unless licensed to bear 48 CARIA. them. We are accustomed to this, but it is new in Tur- key. The change which most affected ourselves was the regulations of the Post : hitherto the Menzilkhahner, or postmaster, had a salary, and for this he was bound to supply such horses as might be required by the mes- sengers of Government or Post, and those persons who were provided with a firman, or teskary, at a stated price of one piastre ^n hour for each horse, the only profit to the postmaster being his salary. The new regulations put an end almost to this oflice ; it with- draws the salary, and allows him to charge two and a half piastres an hour to the few private individual travellers provided with teskaries, on condition of his carrying the Government dispatches free ; in this village it was evident that the very small demand by travel- lers, even at the former low price, bore no proportion to the continual requirements of the Government, and at the new price would probably be superseded by the hire of horses from individuals on more reasonable terms. We were therefore applied to by the late Menzilkhanner, who tendered himself and his stud of ten horses for our service by the month, we taking him wherever we pleased. His first demand was like all proceeding from the Turk, honest and moderate, the result of consideration; he offered himself, two Zooregees and ten horses, he paying all expenses of the men and horses on the road ; his own food he pro- posed to share with our servant. The charge was 1400 piastres a month, and we might leave him KARASOO. 49 when and where we chose— a sum less than ten shil^ lings a day ; the bargain was closed, and he placed his hand on his breast and head, and touched my hand ; his word was thus given, and no further agree- ment was requisite. The Governor soon sent down to say that he was for a time left without horses, until a new contractor could be found, and asked us as a favour to defer our departure for one day, that he might be enabled to send off some dispatches ; he at the same- time renewed his invitation to us to take up our abode at his Konak, or official residence. We took advantage of this day's rest, and rambled about the neighbourhood. I have mentioned that the soil of this country consists of rapidly decomposing limestone, and as the streams carry down this lime in their waters, of course incrustation of vegetable matter and of loose pebbles on the banks is the consequence. This conglomerate has not been overlooked by the people, and superstition was fed by the occurrence. They tell us, that before the time of Mahomet, lived Haziratallee, and the print of his horses' feet was made upon a rock in the valley ; that in order to pay respect - to his memory, all passers-by are said to have thrown a stone on the pile raised to his honour j and every stone was fastened down by some good spirit, and thus formed into a mountain. March I3th. — This morning we left Karasoo in the formidable cavalcade of our newly-arranged party ; in front rides our Cavass, a kind of courier, in a most 50 CARIA. superb Turkish costume, with the beautiful embossed silver pistols and sword of the country stuck into the front of his sash ; his horse caparisoned to correspond with his dress, and trained to the prancing pace of such an officer in a Turkish procession. Next came a Zoo- rigee with green turban ; then three loads of baggage, and another Zoorigee. I followed, with Mr. Hesketh and Mr. Scharf, and the rear was filled bv Mania. I fear the extent of our cavalcade will impede a rapid progress, but at present the road lying over the same stony district by which we had ascended the valley, prevents our exceeding a walking pace. This evening we are at Arrachiflee, on the side of the river opposite to the ruins of Antiocheia. I find by my thermometer that we have descended above five hundred feet from Karasoo. March \4ih. — ^We have travelled for eight hours, or more than thirty miles, to the westward, along the southern side of the valley of the Maeander, which is far more picturesque than the northern ; the moun- tains, at whose feet our road lay, being rock, and not the crumbling gravelly hills, which, at the distance across the valley, now assume a more pleasing appear- ance. The country immediately on our right is a per- fect level, and is cultivated with corn ; the plough is seen moving in every direction. On our left the sloping green of the lower hills of the mountains are spotted with cattle and the black tents of the Yourooks. Many small villages are sheltered among them, the principal VALLEY OF THE MEANDER. 51 of which are Birrejeh and Arepas ; the latter is situated at the foot of a hill covered with the ruins of a city or fortress of unhewn stone, similar to those at Antiocheia ; these may probably have been the ancient Harpasa. Beneath this runs the river Harpasus, winding down the valley in a broad, strong, and quiet stream, cutting deeply into the sandy soil. A profusion of ducks and wild-fowl find shelter in the reeds and bushes growing on the waste track, occasionally inundated by its waters; the valley is about four miles across. A ferry-boat is at the end of the valley, and lands yOu at the village of Dondoorahn on the western side. Here, as at the other ferries I have seen in this country, the boat is of a tri- angular form, and looks like the head of a boat cut off at midships ; the rope which stretches across the river is of very considerable length, and is formed of vine- stems, many thirty or forty feet long, spliced together at their ends. We are now in the Konak, or house of the Aga, in the little village of Yennibazaar, which is erroneously laid down in all the maps, as are also many of the rivers in this district. I have been shown some sheep here, which appear of the same breed as all others of this country; having the broad tail, and known to us as the Cape sheep ; but these flocks! am told are pe- culiar in having lambs twice during the year, and fre- quently two lambs at a time. This profitable quaUty of course increases the price of the sheep. March 15th. — We are at a Uttle village consisting of but a few well-built stone houses in a plain ; it is called E 2 52 CARIA. Zhumarlee-cooe. In the yard of the Konak is a pedestal with this inscription : AnOAAXlNOZ ElAEYOEPIOYZE^ArrO^ * I also observed many fragments of ancient art, evidently from some old site not far distant. We are told that they are brought from Arab Hissa, a village eight miles south of this place, the object which has caused me to seek this route. From Yennibazaar we have had a beautiful ride of six hours, traA'elling for the first eight miles down the valley of, the Mseander, towards the west, passing continually little villages on the sides of the hills : these have all names signifying some rustic fare they afford. I put down these in the order we passed them, but they none of them deserved a remark for preference, although they may serve as guides for future travellers. The situation of each was fine and healthy, overlooking the broad and rich valley to the north : Alkhan Kuilee Khan, (or ' ass's stable ') ; Chal- gar, Yodurennee, AUahnee, Dalamon, Tepecooe, Youg- hoortcooe, and on the right Yostootsh. We here turned to the south through the mountains by an ascending valley, with its little rill called Hassd-bohas. The scenery was beautiful ; winding up rocks well clothed with underwood, while beneath the branches the spring * " [The statue ?] of Apollo, the Liberator, the August." These epithets, applied to Apollo, are unusual. VALLEY OF THE MARSYAS. 53 flowers were bursting into bloom. The soil was of sand, and its red and yellow hues added to the rich effect of the vegetation. In an hout and a half we reached the summit of this range of hills, and looked down upon a valley, with a large river running from the north-east through a fine rich-looking mountain country. Descending to its banks, we had to cross and recross its broad but shallow bed a dozen times. I never saw a better-looking stream for fish, and in its crystal waters I saw shoals of the finny tribe enjoying life. They ap- peared like our trout of about three-quarters of a pound weight. The river took a westward course, and through a narrow ravine led us to this large valley, watered by the river Cheena, the ancient Marsyas, to which, still further to the west, it became a tributary. 54 CHAPTER III. Arab Hissrf, ancient Alabanda — Ruins — Demmeerge-derasy, ancient Alinda — Tombs — Ruins — Passage of the Mountains — Unknown Ruins — Mylasa — Temple of Labranda [?] — Ancient Remains — Mausoleum. March I6th, Capeedas. — Akab Hissed had not a shelter for us, consisting of but a few huts amidst the ruins of the ancient city, whose temple walls now serve as folds for calves, which are bred abundantly in this neigh- bourhood. This village, which is of the lowest grade to deserve the title, is a mile to the south of Arab Hissrf. Depositing our baggage, we lost no time in returning to examine the ruins of the ancient city, whose name has not yet been satisfactorily fixed : it is supposed by many to be the ruins of Alabanda. Climbing up the back of a steep hill which overlooked the city, and whose top was covered with old walls, we had a commanding view of the whole country, the position of which differs much from that laid down in the maps. The large river, which, escorted by guides, we had with great difiiculty crossed four miles to the south of Zhumarleecooe, soon afterwards divided into two branches ; one coming from ALABANDA. 55 Cheena on the south, which gives its name to the river, the other from the west-south-west. Crossing the latter, we arrived at the ruins before us, which are at the fork or angle of the two rivers. The whole country is moun- tainous, but the valleys highly productive and extensive. Scattered about are the tents of the Yourooks, who watch the numerous flocks of sheep, and herds of cows and bufialos. The plains are in large tracks of mo- notonous colours, with the young wheat and barley, and here and there the rich-looking red soil is being ploughed to receive the seeds of the cotton-plant, Rising from this plain are green slopes, covered with flocks, and the fig, olive, and vine show that a fine cU- mate favours this region. The ruins of the city below are mysterious ; there is a boldness and simple massive- ness in the construction of the walls and theatre, which is anterior to the age of the cities I have seen during the past week, but an almost total absence of inscriptions leaves much in obscurity. The whole \of the materials used in its construction are of igneous rock, and gene- rally of a coarse granite, whose perishing surface has been further injured by the lichens growing upon it. The few inscriptions which I traced with difficulty upon the sarcophagi, were too imperfect to throw much light upon the name or history of the city. The theatre, which faced the north-west, was as usual built in the side of a hill, and its massive stone-work is of the beautiful and regular Greek style, the joints between the large stones being rendered more conspicuous by 56 CARIA. the bulging or cushioned form of each stone; the walls are built with two wide and one narrow course successively ; the proscenium has been destroyed, and the seats have disappeared, but the outward form re- mains, as well as the three arches for the vomitaries. The shape is of a kind of which I had not seen many, and I believe is almost peculiar to eastern Greece, the ends or horns of its crescent having their walls cutting inwards towards the proscenium. Near the theatre has stood a building of considerable importance, and upon a site most imposing, but its basement, or stoa, alone remains. Down below, on what appeared from above the flat valley, but which we found was still elevated ground, stands a finely-built structure of an oblong form, which now is perfect as high as a cornice, probably thirty feet from the ground ; above this are the bases of pilasters and openings for doors ; the interior is a mass of ruin, and affords no clue to the former use of this building. Foundations are seen in every direction for the distance of a mile in length, and nearly half a mile in breadth. Even more than this extent has been included within walls, for ALABANDA. 57 their ruins are traced over the ridges of the hills at the back of the city. The position of four important gates are now marked by lines of sarcophagi on either side of the road, from the walls into the plains ; those to the east and west extend for more than a mile. The form of the sarcophagus is generally of an uniform plain squared oblong, and the lids of a rude shape, scarcely rising to a pediment at the ends. The inscriptions upon them consist of but few letters, all of the Greek character : they are generally above six inches in length, but so imperfect from decay, that I fear the few I have copied will be almost useless. AYPHAIWNAAKIBIAAOY KArKAAIOnHCrYNAI TOANrEIONIJ AIONHOI 'TOY KH nOTOY TOAN TEION HOYAAIO ^r€NIANYACIANA TOYt * Translation. — " [The tomb ?] of the Aurelii, Alcibiades, and Cal- liope, his wife." Both husband and wife seem to have belonged to the Aurelian family. , t Each of these inscriptions seems to begin with the words TO ANTEION, usually now written ayyeloy, a vessel, here the urn for the ashes, which meaning is borne out by other funeral inscriptions. 58 CARIA. Scarcely a block of marble is to be found in the ruins of the city ; the pedestal which we yesterday saw at Zhumarleecooe was perhaps the last remaining legible inscription. The order of architecture seems to have been wholly Ionic ; some columns are fluted, but gene- rally plain, and not any of great dimensions. I obtained a few coins, among which were some of the ancient city, with the name of Alabanda upon them ; also coins of Magnesia ad Maeandrum, which was opposite to the end of this valley, and of Miletus also not far distant. I made some observations for ascertaining localities, but the cloudy weather rendered this difficult, Demmeerge-derasy , March \7th. — After a ride of five hours, perhaps not more than sixteen miles, generally bearing to the west-south-west, we are again, amidst ruins, but of a far more interesting and picturesque appearance than those which we have left at Alabanda ; we therefore tarry here for a day to examine them. The road we have traversed since leaving Arab Hissa lay in the valley of the branch of the Cheena, which river takes the name of Karpuslee-chi, from a village of that name about two miles higher up the valley. Pass- ing several groups of huts, each boasting the name of a village, and then turning up to the south-west, we crossed a series of small mountains, covered with rich underwood and wild olives. In each valley we saw the tents of the Yourooks, depasturing their cattle around them, while their few camels raised their stately heads above the trees on the hill sides, upon which they were ALINDA. 59 brousing. Scarcely any cultivation is here attempted. Turning again through a ravine to the west, we came upon the decUvity of a hill covered with olive-trees ; and as we entered a little valley, encircled by hills, which puzzled us to ascertain how the river entered, and again left it, we arrived at a few houses, forming the village of Hoomarleh. A heavy shower of rain drove us to take shelter for half an hour in a stable ; a bowl of olives, in oil, and a quantity of bread of the country, was brought to the servants. When' the shower abated, we peeped out of our re- treat, and saw some females separating the oil from the olive, a process which I had not before had an oppor- tunity of observing. The group was picturesque : bags filled with olives, which had been crushed in the mill, and for some weeks lying in salt, were piled upon a rock ; near these was a large pot or copper of boiling water, into which each bag was put in turn, and then placed upon a flat floor, or stone, with channels cut across it ; upon these hot bags women were treading with their legs bare, visible at least to the knee, while their heads were closely shrouded with the white veil, covering the upper part of the body ; from under this came an arm, grasp- ing a long stick, which served to steady the body during the violent exercise of trampling the apparently scalding bags ; the hot liquor ran off into wooden vessels, on the top of which floated the oil ; a plug near the bottom was occasionally withdrawn, to let out the dark choco- late-coloured liquid which stained the channels from 60 CARIA. every part of the village, the pressing of the oil being at this season the occupation of most of the women of the place. The spring is here beginning to open rapidly ; each day's rain seems to shower down flowers ; hya- cinths, anemonies, and some beautiful yellow blossoms, seem to exhaust every variety of colour ; the narcissus, springing up from among the tufts of thorns, adds a sparkling white to the gay picture. This latter flower is a favourite with the Turks, and soon finds a place in the folds of his turban ; it is the flower commonly gathered and offered to us by the peasantry. The Turks value sweetness more than beauty in flowers ; I am re- minded of this by seeing the grape-hyacinth in bloom, whose apparently dead and dull flower was frequently presented to me on my former tour later in the season, the honey-like smell giving it a great charm with this people. Crossing the Karpuslee-chi, we traversed the valley, and arrived at this place — and what has it been? The direction is west-south-west of Arab Hissa, although the same place is laid down in the maps to the north, and there only supposed to have been the ancient Or- thosia ; I hope to fix its locality by a set of observations, but its name must remain unknown, unless the nume- rous coins I have collected may tell the tale. I have not discovered a single inscription. Many of the sar- cophagi have had tablets let into their rough stone, probably of metal or marble, but the holes made by the ties alone remain. . ALINDA. 6 ^f ^j ^fc '^ ""^tj^r ^i^^rtC^Si 1 £ E ^^^C_.w:./^«^'- The situation of this highly picturesque city is per- fectly Greek, and I have seen none built up so steep a crag, formed of the boldest blocks of granite-rock, which have in many places been cut into long flights of wide steps, leading up to the city. One of three or four of the lines of tombs, showing the various approaches, is very characteristic, and must have had a grand and melancholy appearance — a " Via Sacra"; it was a paved way, of steep ascent from the valley, extending nearly a mile up into the crag of the acropolis, winding the whole length between tombs, of all the forms of heavy melan- choly grandeur, which effect was heightened by the grey colour of the granite, out of which, or rather in which, they were formed; for some, the most novel to me, had a cavity for the body cut into the mass of the rock, and a heavy cover placed over it ; the weight of some of 62 CARIA. these has secured the sanctity of the dead. I sketched many of various forms, but the effect of the whole I can- not express with pencil or pen. This street of tombs retains its pavement of large oblong stones, eight or nine feet in length ; the width of the way was seven- teen feet, formed by two stones. As an admirer of works of art, I am of course delighted to find highly ornamented and sculptured tombs, as I have done in Lycia ; but as monuments for the dead, these massive tombs are more fit emblems, and are another instance of the perfection of taste among the early Greeks. The designs of many of our modern tombs carry the ideas away from the dead, and are looked at often as works of art alone. Near the upper termination of this Via Sacra is a very conspicuous building of beautiful masonry ; it has a bold front, running along the face of the steep rock, and apparently serves to hold up a terrace, of the width of about a hundred feet ; the rock then becomes its opposite support. Within the front of this oblong building, which is nearly 330 feet in length, are a series of square rooms, or store-houses, and above them a co- lonnade of square pillars, with a half- column of the Doric order on either side. These and the lower rooms have been lighted by small apertures near the ceiling of each. On the terrace above all was another colonnade of single Doric pillars, many of which are still standing ; but these terraces occupied only forty feet of the front ; the remaining depth is now a mere level field, and its ALINDA. 63 former use is perfectly uncertain. It may have been an agora, but its position is too important, and not very convenient for the citizens living so high above. This (building much resembles the oblong basement at Ala- banda, which could not have been an agora, from its height, and was most probably the stoa of a temple or place of amusement; the length is not sufficient for a stadium, nor have there been raised seats for spec- tators. Almost perpendicularly above this building stands the theatre, facing nearly the south ; most of the seats remain, and the outer walls are entire, excepting those of the proscenium, which have fallen down the cliff in front. Winding round the rocks above, amidst walls of massive and uniform masonry, covered with ruins of ornamental buildings, and columns, both fluted and plain, but of small dimensions, we climbed upon the top of the acropolis or citadel. On the northern side stands a fine square tower, with windows and doors on its upper floor ; this is formed of excellent massive Greek masonry, some of the stones measuring twelve to fourteen feet in length. The crown of this hill seems to have had little more than walls surrounding it ; no foundations are visible upon its small field at the top, but beneath its surface are large cisterns, lined with cement, and similar to those I have often seen made by the early inhabitants of the coast of this country for storing their grain; these vaults were partly arched over, and were then covered up with stones above thir- teen feet in length. 64 CARTA. The buildings of the city viewed from this elevation were almost lost among the rocks with which they were mingled : the huts of the people of the present town did not disturb the effect of ruin, and their green flat tops distinguished them among the rocks below. I find out of twenty copper coins obtained here, five bearing the name of Alinda, which city stood in this region of Caria. In the absence of better authority, I should consider this as sufficient to mark these ruins as the site of the ancient Alinda. March \%th. — We are in one of the most beautiful situations I ever saw, in the little scattered village of Toorbeh, high up in the mountains, and raised on a rocky eminence amidst a forest of stone-pines. The di- rection we have taken from Demmeerge-derasy is south- west, the distance five hours. About a mile and a half on the way we left the village of Karpuslee on the right, crossing its river twice, and then gradually ascending the mountains, whose circle appeared to contract around us, until their various rills, like radii directed towards the valley, united in a considerable brook, which is the source of the river forming the main branch of the an- cient Marsyas. The mountains consist entirely of blocks and crags of coarse granite, which is rapidly decom- posing, and its sand nourishes luxuriantly the oak and the stone-pine, whose rich deep colour contrasts beau- tifully with the brilliant green of the mossy rocks. The peculiar effect of a forest of this description of fir-trees must be seen in order to be properly appreciated, and I MYLASA. 65 have seen none but in this country ; these firs cultivated in Italy give but a faint idea of the peculiar beauty of their natural growth. The forest extends nearly thirty miles over the range of mountains separating this val- ley from that of the country of Mylasa. The distant ranges of granite crags rising above the wood, and the green valleys cultivated at their feet, even in this high district, formed a view from the door of our cottage that exceeded in beauty anything I had ever seen in European scenery, although of so different a kind that each has its peculiar claim to admiration. March 20th. — For nearly two hours this morning we continued our ascent of the wooded mountain-range towards the west-south-west, craggy and highly pictu- resque, but not very steep. Along the ridge of the mountain the trees became less thick, and allowed us to look down the ravines of hills upon the extended view that opened before us to the westward, over the plains of Mellassa, bounded by the bold mountains skirting the Cerambic gulph ; the sea formed, as it were, a placid lake, and the island of Cos, with the promontories of Halicarnassus and Cnidus, were gray in the distance. The vegetation during our morning's ride had changed from the unvaried underwood of the dwarf oak to the heath, cistus, and lavender ; flowers were sparkling be- tween the bushes, and the blossom already covered the yellow broom. The geological features, as we passed the summit, also changed ; the coarse granite seemed gradu- ally to cease, appearing only in rolled blocks, over the 66 GARIA. shivered slaty rocks which abound so much throughout the whole of Anatolia : thick veins of quartz protruded in ridges, and the blocks of granite were veined with lines of a black quartz. The rocks, as we descended, became more and more schisty, until at every step they crumbled into a silvery dust of mica ; the beaten track of the road consisting almost wholly of blocks of quartz, the only durable remnant of the decomposing rocks. This increase and change of soil carried us at once, as we descended, into a spring of flowers. I never saw anemonies so numerous and varied : on the mea- dow at our feet I can compare them to nothing but a rich Turkey carpet, in which the green grass did not form a prominent colour amidst the crimson, lilac, blue, scarlet, white, and yellow flowers. The black iris and a hyacinth were the only additions I made to my col- lection of plants. At about twelve miles before we reached Mellassa, and to the north-east of that city, we passed, amidst the woods, some important ruins, of good masonry and of an ornamental character ; one fine building, with a door twelve feet wide within a windowed portico, and the square interior or ceUa having windows on either side, seemed among the most prominent. ' The portico, formed by the extension of the side walls of the cella, is of the kind known as a portico in antis : two fluted columns lay near it. The whole of the buildings of the place seemed compact, and may probably have been enclosed by a long wall running in front. Three or four MYLASA. 67 tombs, partly cut in the rock, attracted our attention to the place, a few hundred yards before we arrived at the ruins. In descending the mountain toward Mellassa, we fol- lowed and continually crossed and re-crossed an ancient paved road, the large stones differing from those of later days by being wrought and fitted together with the pro- truding natural rock : the road, in passing ravines, was also built up with solid Greek masonry. This way doubtless continued to the ancient city of Mylasa. Colonel Leake says, that about this spot he thinks it probable may be discovered the remains of Labranda, which name is at present given to the ruins and temple to the north-west ; to those he proposes the name of Euromus. March 23rd, Mellassa (the ancient Mylasa). — We ar- rived here in a violent storm early in the afternoon of the 20th, and have been detained by the continued rains, which have almost kept us prisoners in our khan, or allowed us but short walks about the town. The rivers in the neighbourhood are much swollen, and the whole country flooded. We have made one excursion to see the temple, on the spot called the ancient La- branda, but the rain fell in such torrents, that the few inscriptions we copied with difficulty, while sheltering the paper within our caps, were afterwards almost ob- literated, our portfolios and pockets being completely saturated by the rain. I was anxious to visit this temple again, as my observations on my former tour, of the F 2 68 CARIA. differences in its columns, had been explained to me in so interesting a manner by the interpretation of the in- scription upon the tablet of a column, stating that its shaft, base, and capital had been contributed by an in- dividual in honour of his daughter. I have now copied eleven of these inscriptions ; some are too much oblite- rated to be deciphered, from lying on the ground. The following is repeated upon all the tablets on the columns in front of the temple : MENEKPATHCMENE KPATOYEOAPXIATPOC THCnOAEWCCTEA NHOPWNTONKEIO NACYNCHEIPHKAIKE AAHnPONOHCAME N H CTH CGYFATPO CAY TOYTPYAINHCTHCKAI AYTHCCTE<|>ANHOPnN EES'nOZXEZE nZTONKEIONAZYN ZnEIPHKAIKEAAHI * My opinions as to the architecture and situatioii of the temple are unchanged. Among the walls I men- tioned as being on the rising ground to the north, we found the excavation of a theatre, with many of its seats remaining : its aspect is toward the south- west. The weather was too unfavourable for botanical or geological researches, for the thick branches of a group of evergreen oaks did not even afford shelter from the deluging rain. These oaks have the small kind of superintendence or patronage over the affairs of the temple and public festivals, seems to have been the chief care of this honorary office, with which scarcely any functions may have been connected, beyond bearing expenses for the common good. Sometimes we see it conferred on the chief priest ; — here, on the chief physician and his daughter. The office of Gymnasiarchos, also a very high one, as is indicated by other inscriptions, scarcely imposed any duties beyond those of a munificent patron of the gymnastic exercises and games. The title of Archiater, still in use in some continental courts, was first given by Nero. This, as observed in the Appendix of my former work, fixes the date of the inscription as later than the first half of the first century. * Translation. — " Leo, the son of Leo, whilst Stephanephoros, [gave] the column, with the base and the capital, according to his promise." 70 CARIA. holly-like leaf of the dwarf shrub universal in this country ; but the size of the trees was immense, their stems being above twenty feet in girth, and the branches must have shaded a circle of seventy feet from the midday sun. The site of Mylasa has been covered with public buildings, and many of the stones remaining show them to have been highly ornamented. The Corinthian order seems to have prevailed ; but Ionic capitals are also seen built into the walls. Tlie following fragment of an inscription I copied from the tablet upon a solitary Corinthian column standing conspicuously in the town. The letters have been chipped off by the present occupier of the house, through the top of which the column rises. This has been done in order to prevent the intrusion of strangers to see this relic. MMO^\^MS.MM MANANAPONOYAYAI AA,JYTOYEYeY^ £lS.nMMS10ZKAi\M EZEYENHETON^ ^jroTorA * * Translation " The People [honoured] Menander, the son of Uli- ades, the son of Euthydemns, a benefactor of his native town, and born of benefactors." Published by Boeckh (2698), from Chandler, who copied it when in a more perfect state. MYLASA. 71 The following inscriptions I have also copied from various walls and sarcophagi in the town : HZOPOZTO KAAYAIOYMAPI AIANOYKOAPOY * AAlMONilNArA ©IlNt NOZAEON^ NEGHKEN^ HPAKAEI^ AAIMONCON ArAGWN TIBEPIOY KAAYAIOY GEOAOTOY ZH 6 * " The Soros of Claudius Marilianus Codrus." t " Of the benevolent spirits." — These words, corresponding to the Latin " Diis Manibus," are very common in funeral inscriptions. X Supposing that at the right-hand side each line has lost two or three letters, we may translate this inscription thus : " Tineius, the son of Bion [?], has consecrated [this] lion to Hercules and to the " § " Of the benevolent spirits. [The property] of Tiberius Claudius Theodotus, [now] alive." 72 CARIA. ^KTHZEIZEIZTETONKOINONJ ZEIZYrONOGEYZINOIZAHKANEr^ AAZEnNnOAINEIZAOYAIKHNnEPU ZINAIZXPATEKAIHMUNANAZIOZA^ OiZrENOITOnPAZOYZIAHMOZIA^ TEXPH M ATHN MHTEn POZOAIl^ NEIMHKATATEAflNEniAEIH'INAOr^ YZTAZTEKEAAAZEr ITEAflN El ^ EnANOPenZINTHNEKTHZAABIHNO^ AEPOYZHZOAH KAI AYTOI n POI AOM E^ XPEAAHMOZIATHNPOAINYnHrArONJ OMATilNTHNKAIZAPOZYPEPMYAAZE^ * * Published by Boeckh, 2695, b. All the words of this inscrip- tion may be read distinctly, but are without connection, as a great part of it has not been preserved. It contained a Roman decree, by which the inhabitants of Mylasa obtained a release from some payments and the vexations of the tax-gatherers. The name of Labienus in the ninth line, and that of Csesar in the last, give the inscription an historical interest. The latter is probably that of C. Julius Csesar, and Labienus, the same who, as Plutarch (Vit. Anton. c. 28. 30. 33.) and others relate, was proclaimed Imperator by the Parthic army, and overran with his forces Asia Minor as far as Lydia and Ionia (Appian. B.C. 1. 5. c. 65). The inhabitants of Mylasa, at the instigation of Hybreas, bravely resisted the invader, but had greatly to suffer for it (Strabo, xiv., p. 660). Marcus Antonius, the Triumvir, sent his legate Ventidius against Labienus, and seems, by the decree contained in our inscription, to have made some grants to the Mylaseans, in consideration of their losses. A similar letter of Marc Antony to the Senate of Aphrodisias, in which also re- ference is made to Julius Csesar, has been preserved entire. (Chandler, p. 61, and Boeckh, 2744.) MYLASA.. 73 74 CARIA. * Translation of inscription on page 73. The first line, which is wanting, seems to have contained the name of the Stephanephoros for the year in which the decree was resolved on ; the letters which now stand first belong, as Boeckh con- cludes from similar inscriptions, to the word OTilPKONAEQN, "the members of the Phyle Otorcondea," which was one of the sub- ordinate corporations of Mylasa. Were it not for the entire dif- ference of Pagan and Christian institutions, we might be tempted to translate "Phyle" hy parish. As at the right-hand side each line has lost some letters, the following translation is partly founded on conjecture. "... : ... It was decreed by the Phyle of the Otorcon- deans, [through] their magistrates. Whereas Amyntas, the son of Agis, most distinguished by public spirit, has heretofore ministered to the wants of the Phyle, and being in several offices has served well and praiseworthily ; and behaving to the members of the Phyle and the other citizens righteously and honourably, and being among all with- out blame and quarrel, and never bribed ; and, when money was wanted, and he was rated by the Phyle, having given more [than was required] to the native town ; whence it happened that the Phyle gained much more renown, and gave to the town what there was occasion for ; wherefore the Phyle has also gratefully honoured him with the be- coming honours ; being by his Phyle, according to law, declared free of the liturgise [expensive charges ordinarily imposed on the rich citizens] , he still remained Gymnasiarchos [patron of the gymnastic games], and superintended the holy affairs [or, according to Boeckh's reading, the revenue officers,] in a manner worthy of the People : behaving to all men equably and honestly, and in obedience to the laws ; and em- bellishing besides, at his own expense, the Palaestra with ornaments ; and striving not only in the things that are mentioned, but generally [?], to excel all the former good deeds. That, therefore, the Phyle may appear to render thanks unto men of merit and the benefactors of the Phyle and the People [it was resolved] ,' " May it be fortunate ! That Amyntas be praised and crowned with MYLASA. 75 I mentioned in my former Journal a fine arched gateway, whicL was still remaining ; an aqueduct has passed over it. I have sketched the outer side, show^ ing on the keystone the sacrificial axe of Jupiter, which has been deemed an argument favouring the idea that this gateway led to the temple of Jupiter Lahrandenus. This emblem I have seen on four dif- ferent keystones, built into various walls in the town, showing that it must have been very commonly used in the architecture of the city, and not improbably placed over each of its gates. I have obtained coins of the ancient city, with the same emblem upon them, and also one representing Jupiter, with a similar axe in his hand*. Another of the monuments still existing at Mylasa is shown in the annexed Plate : it is a tomb of a very a wreath, for his merits towards the Phyle and his native town, in order that the choice of the members of the Phyle may be the more manifest, and the zeal which they have." Published from Chishull by Boeckh, 2693, d. * These are given in Plate XXXV. Nos. 4 and 5, at the end of this volume. 76 CARIA. imposing form, and may, from its high state of pre- servation, explain the former use of some I have no- ticed at Alinda, which now appear as mere pedestals or stoas. A hole in the floor of this upper apartfnent or temple is said by one writer to have been for the pour- ing down libations to the manes in the vault beneath. There being no visible means for the friends of the deceased to reach the platform for this holy purpose, I listened to the explanation of the Turk who acted as cicerone : he says the building was a treasury, and that the lower room was filled with gold, which had been dropped down the hole above, and that many such buildings had existed. I have never heard a Turk relate any anecdote of " old castles," as he calls them, without some reference to hidden treasure ; he believes that every inscription tells of treasure, if he could understand it, and every cavern leads to some ancient store of accumulated gold ; but these stories, like the tales of children, have each their characteristic moral ; they tell you that whoever enters wishing to carry away wealth, finds himself a prisoner, lost in the dark vaults, until he lays down that which he was about to steal : he may then return, empty-handed, by the open door. A Jew is said to have once entered a cavern, and was thus served, but the lesson has prevented the Turk from repeating the like attempt. Many of the hot springs and volcanic gaseous flames in the country serve to dress the meat of the honest shepherd, but that which has been stolen iV.o.li3a^!i-Vv>«''^ ,"'i>ir-^'^- '7-1 r. •II 1^ CJiu, II /< /( II / / ■]"' f; Ifl B IN' 1:, aR M Y T, A S fi -7>/« Murrff.y, Li?nM'>f'' /^f^/ MYLASA. 11 can never be cooked at these places. I should almost regret the loss of this trait of credulous simplicity, how- ever childish it may appear. In closing my last Journal I gave my general impres- sion of the character of the Turk, formed in spite of prejudice against them, and entirely drawn from their own conduct. Perhaps I may be suspected, like many converts, to have become too warmly the advocate of their character; but I cannot accuse myself of this feeling, and have now reason to repeat my opinion, from a longer experience. What I am about to say will show that their faults are not overlooked by me, although in citing an exception it may be thought to prove my rule. At Naslee the master of the post sat with us, talking much nonsense, accompanied with ex- treme politeness, and holding in his hand an empty bottle, which he hoped we should refill with arrac ; he had evidefttly drunk the whole of its former contents. I know not if his profession has caused this neglect of the Prophet's laws, but our Cavass is a determined drunkard ; he will empty two or three bottles a day of pure arrac, a spirit extracted from the refuse of grapes, used as spirits-of-wine by us, and in strength far above proof. This man is a wretched example of the effects of intemperance ; at times he is like a perfect madman ; when the fit subsides he weeps like a child, and pro- mises better conduct, but only practises it when beyond the reach of obtaining a supply of spirits, for which he is w^illing to pay any price or make any sacrifice. 78 CARIA. But to revert to the tomb I was describing. Those vast stoas I have mentioned as existing at Alinda have evidently also been mausoleums, and probably sur- mounted with columns and a superstructure resembling this, the scale alone differing, some of them being of double the dimehsion of the one shown in the preceding Plate. It is curious that such are hot to be seen out of Caria, and that in its construction this tomb precisely answers to the description of the celebrated monument erected to Mausolus in this country, which was one of the wonders of the world, and from which we derive the term Mausoleum. We are to start from Mellassa tomorrow morning ; this has been a lovely day, the sun and wind drying the deluged earth ; the streams are again finding their accustomed beds, and we anticipate no further delay. What a change does a sunny day, after rains, make in a warm climate, at this season ! the ficfwers may almost be seen to expand. This morning I wandered over the hill on the south of the town, and saw the flowers recovering from the beating rains ; the people were all busy cutting the grass from their house-tops, and every hut had its little roller at work to press down the wet earth of its roof. In the evening I visited the same hill, to seek the site of the ancient theatre, the im- pression of which alone seems to remain on the south- east side : the whole hill had burst into a garden of flowers. Women and children were decking themselves most tastefully, plaiting the blue hyacinth into their MYLASA. 79 long hanging locks, and placing a crest of anemonies or marigolds on their foreheads ; the folds of the turbans of the boys were rolled in flowers ; the whole scene was - beautiful. Along the valley, for several miles to the south-east, we traced the ruins of a fine aqueduct, which formerly conveyed the water from the mountains. The distant hiUs were now gray, and tinged with the setting sun. To the south, at a distance of about six miles, on the verge of a precipice, stands the town of Paichin, supposed to occupy the site of one of the celebrated temples of Jupiter ; its situation is worthy of a Greek temple, which, from the valley, would appear relieved against the sky, the country beyond being a flat table- land. 80 CHAPTER IV. Stratoniceia, its Ruins. — Route to Moolah. — Ancient Tombs. — The Pasha. — Longevity. — Change in the Laws. — Detention among the Peasants. — Music. — Dancing. — Customs. — Passage of the River. — DoUomon. March '24th, Esky Hissd. — This morning we left Mel- lassa for this place, the ancient Stratoniceia ; the di- stance is six hours, but from the bad state of the road it has taken us seven. For four miles we traversed the plain, and then for three hours more clambered up the rocky mountainous road to the south-east. ' This country is highly picturesque, and it has received additional grandeur of effect from the frequent thunder-storms and partial gleams of light amidst the pelting hail-storms. I have before spoken of the geology of this district ; and its changes, although constant, are in two years im- perceptible. I again noticed the singular crumbling sands, white, red, and blue, similar to those of Alum Bay in the Isle of Wight ; and the ironstone, in almost pure ore, scattered over the surface of the country. In the people I observed the primitive -mode STRATONICEIA. 81 of obtaining turpentine-wood for light ; and the felling of the trees is in the last two years as little changed as it has been for three thousand years past, which I noticed in the Appendix to my last Journal. I this afternoon continued my research amongst the broken fragments of this once large town ; from the cella of the great building resembling a temple, in the centre of the city, I copied the remaining inscriptions. The following is taken from the front wall within the portico : ^AEIHTHXnPATflEN EZTI2TI ETEIO0EOZEXPHZE -#TONTAZYM AZOPilNOYKEXilTH N AITI ANTOYTOY YNBAAINOYTErAPErnnOPOHZnNTHNnOAINYMnNEZTAAHN ^EAOYAHNEZEAEYOEPAZnOIHCZilNOYTEAAAOTflN ArAOHNOYAEN AMI PHZOMENOC* * Boeckh, 2717, from Chandler, who has given also the first Ime, which is wanting in the transcript. Translation. — " [The town, as was likewise ordered hy Serapis,] asks through Philocalus twice [i. e. the grand-son of Philocalus], the CEco- nomus [^steward] whether the wicked barharians shall in the ensuing year infest the town and country. The god answered, ' Seeing what you do, I have no reason why this should come to pa§s ; for I did not set out either in order to lay waste your town, or of making it a slave from being free, or to take away anything else of your goods.' " This oracle, of course, is not very clear ; it was probably delivered in the temple of Jupiter, at Stratoniceia, connected, as Boeckh supposes, with that of S,erapis ; so also appear to have been their priesthoods, as the one referred the good citizens to the other. Prof. Boeckh thinks that this happened under the reign of Valerian or Gallien, when the barbarians, especially the Scythians, burned the temple at Ephesus. G 82 CARIA. The following is inscribed upon the wall within the north side of the same building, which I find, from other inscriptions inserted in the Appendix to this volume, is the council-hall of the ancient city. KAIHAIljOAMCEPAnEI CWOENTECEKnO AEMO.NMErAAONKAI AAAOAAnOIOOAAACr o N EYXHCINEKETAYTEHE rPA4'ANYENOITEECA PECANAPEtZilTIKOC EniKTHTOCHAANTI OXOfAMANEIAOC* I have impressed upon paper the inscription I copied on my last visit to this spot, as a specimen of the most beautifully formed Greek letters I have ever seen. On the outer side of the wall of this cella, towards the * Traiislalion. — " To Jupiter Panemerius and Helios Jupiter Serapis. Being saved out of great wars and strange seas, four men have, in con- sequence of a vow, together put up this inscription, Zoticus, Epictetus, and Antiochus, [andj also Nilus." The four men, it seems, intended this to be metrical, and succeeded in making the second line a hexameter, but at' the expense both of sense and grammar. The epithet strange (njXcSaTros), which, inap- propriate though it be, can be joined to no other noun but ' seas,' does in the original agree with this neither in gender nor number. Stratoniceia had a far-famed temple of Jove, who, as we may also see in other inscriptions, was worshiped under the names of Panemerius, Rhembenodus, etc., the distinguishing attributes of which we do not know. STRA.TONICEIA. 83 north, is the long and celebrated edict of Dioclesian, both in Greek and Latin ; its transcription, a laborious undertaking, was accomplished above a century ago by Sherard, and is among the manuscripts in the British Museum. Colonel Leake has presented me with a copy of it published in the form of a pamphlet, which is an important supplementary document to his valuable work on Asia Minor. It is curious that many of the articles of food mentioned in this edict still retain the same names amongst the peasantry of the country. The theatre, which I did not examine on my former visit, is on the west side of the town ; the whole of the seats remain, but the proscenium is a heap of ruins. The vomitaries must have been on the sides of the pro- scenium, for there are no arched ways visible leading into the diazoma or lobby. Among the tombs on the east side of the city I copied the following inscriptions, but the heavy rains prevented further research. KOMYPIAKOZ KAIAPTEMIN KAPnnxiiTEKNn MNIAZXAPIN* Tl BEPIOYKAAYAIOYl AOKAAOY KAAYAIAZAABPAINAIAOZ ZH l AOKAAEXPHZTEXAI PE t * Translation. — " Quintus Myriacus and Artemin [Artemion] to Carpus, their child, for the sake of remembrance." t Translation. — " [The tomb ?] ot Tiberius Claudius Philocalus [and] Claudia, a woman of Labrainda [Labranda ?] [now] alive. Phi- localus, thou good one, farewell." g2 84 CARIA. OAHMOZEOAS'EN IAINNONZnZANAPOYKnPAZIAA THNFYNAIKATHNANAPilNOZ TOY/«>NYZIOYKnPAI EflZ EZH KYI ANZil4)PONnZ KAirErENHMENHNEMHAZIN AZI ANTIiN KAAAIZTflN EHAINilN* March 25th. — This morning we delayed our departure until eleven o'clock, hoping that the rains would cease ; and taking advantage of a fair hour, we travelled slowly over the rocky road towards Moolah. On reaching the plain the rain again fell in torrents, and we were com- pelled to take refuge at the village of Bozuke, not two hours' ride from Esky HissIONNACO NOCTOYAIO TENOYCTEA MHCCICTOMNH MEIONKATECKEYACEN EAYTHKAIOICAY THENEOAS'ENAnOA AWNIA0AYIWAYTHC KAIEAENHrHKAIA<|>OI NErrONHAYTHC AMHAE MHAENNEZEINAIENTM HYPnCKWlEOHNAMIE TATOENTA«l>HNAIAYTHN EnEIO0EICTINAACE BHCECrWOEOICKATA 0ONIOICKAIEKTOZ 04>EIAETU)TWTEA MHCCEUNAH MW^y'E* * Translatiem.' — " Helene, who is also [called] Apphion (Appia), the daughter of Naeon, the son of Diogenes, a woman of Telmessus, has erected this monument for herself and for those whom [?] she has [already} huried there, Apollonides her son, and Helene, also called Apphion, her grand-daughter. But it shall not be lawful 108 LYCIA. 1 subjoin another, which was built into one of the walls referred to above. MAPKOZAYPHEPMArOPAZO KAIZWZIMOZYIOZMAPKAYP EPMArOPAAIZMAPWNAZTOYAI 0ANOYZTEAM HZZEYZ NEIAEZAZTONAnANATWN nPOKAHIANEIWNAHENEIWN nANKPATIONTHNTETAPTHNOE MINArWNOGETOYNTOZAIAPlOY TOYAZ lOAOrWTAAYAYKI APXOY MAPAONKWAinnOYZTEAMHZ ZEWZ* From the circumstance of the fragments of Greek workmanship being used as rough material, and the quantity and nature of the cement, these walls were probably of Roman, or possibly of Venetian date. To for anybody to put [another] into the turret, after I am myself buried there, as he who puts in another shall be impious unto the gods of hell, and besides pay to the people of the Telmesseans 5000 denarii." * Translation. — " Marcus Aurelius Hermagoras, also [called] Zosimus, son of Marcus Aurelius Hermagoras, twice [i, e. grandson] of Maro [?] , the son of Diophanes, a citizen of Telmessus, having won in the pancration, the fourth prize, which he contested with the youths who had challenged him [?] ; there being Agonothetes, [patron of public games] for his lifetime, the most excellent Lyciarches, Marcus Domi- tius Philippus [?], a citizen of Telmessus." In this inscription I must remark that the O, O, , are diamond- shaped. TELMESSUS. 109 me the inscriptions acquired increased interest from finding several in the Lycian characters, which 1 had seen so generally used in the city of Xanthus*. In the frontier towns of Lycia I had hoped to have found some bilingual inscriptions, but have not yet succeeded in this pursuit. Among the coins found here, I have many belonging to this country, and to the neighbour- ing Rhodian colonies on the coast of the Persea. These may assist in throwing some light upon the history of this interesting portion of Asia Minor. The peculiarities in the architectural detail are very remarkable in these early specimens of represented buildings in the rocks. They show distinctly the imi- tation of wooden structures, and, by the nature of the joints, ties and mouldings, give a perfect insight into the knowledge of the construction of ancient Greek buildings. The panelled doors, with bossed nails on the styles, knockers suspended from lions' mouths, and other ornaments in the panels, also show much taste and accuracy of execution. Those tombs here which would rank among the great divisions or orders of ar- chitecture, are of the Ionic, and evidently in its earliest or simplest form ; I have seen none of the Doric. It is remarkable that this district, which -is part of the an- cient Doris, exhibits several peculiar features in its ar- chitecture, but none of the so-called Doric. I remember being struck by a similar coincidence at Corinth ; not a * These are shown on Plate XXXVJ. at the end of this volume. 110 LYCIA. fragtaent of the Corinthian style was to be found, and a ruined temple of the plain Doric stands conspicuously on the site of the ancient city. In some instances bas- reliefs remain on the sarcophagi, and these are always of an early, simple, and good age ; I have seen no trace of the inferior art of the Romans, or df later times>; thei coins also show the' purest style of Greek art. lAHZKAAINriY HAAIEHTNO lOEZTHATHNAY ^TAKAAAMEM AANIOZAIOrN^ ANNTHAIONN^* Macry, April 7th. — Yesterday we were weather-bound; the rain fell heavily the whole day, and gave us an op- portunity of pursuing our occupations within our little lodging. I am sorry to find my collection of plants is badly preserved; they increase so rapidly, that from * In the third line we may decipher the words, " he superintended the games." TELMESSUS. Ill the constant moisture of the papter they soon discolour and decay. We occupied our time also in arranging sketches and obtaining information as to ruins in the neighbourhood from the Greeks, who each had coins for sale, all found in cities at present unmapped and unknown by us. I fear my time will allow me but imperfectly to visit Lycia alone, for this small district abounds in the works of its former highly civilized people. Hoozufalee, April 7th. — We have just arrived at six o'clock this evening, and escaped a tremendous storm, which is now thundering as it wraps its clouds around the mountains above us. I despaired of fine- weather at Macry, knowing its peculiar situation, and, contrary to the opinion of my servant, I persisted in quitting the place, although the rain was falUng in large drops. I had noticed the effects caused in the atmosphere at Macry when last there, and during the three days at this season the same causes produce their effects. The warm westerly wind has each morning brought with it showers from over the sea ; and no sooner do they pass the bay, than the colder current of air coming down from the central country about noon drives back the clouds, and the showers are repeated. The eddying of the atmosphere during the hot weather, only produced partial condensation of clouds, and the heated winds were driven back towards the sea. The wind, although varying during the morning and night, has always for two or three hours at noon changed to the north-east, 112 LYCIA. and the prediction of a stranger respecting the weather would probably be little worthy the character of the ancient soothsayers of Telmessus. The peculiar situa- tion of the bay of Macry may also account for the changes in the elevation of its waters ; but from inquiry, and from observing the equal and permanent marks upon the stones and rocks caused by the sea, I ascer- tained that there is here felt a change which may al- most be mistaken for a tide, probably occasioned by the regular winds. In many places I have visited in the Mediterranean, there is certainly no tide 'perceptible. I was noticing a curious gage for the waters on the fine sarcophagus seen standing in the sea, which is on High-water. Low-water. ,^^^;^^pj^ Bottom of sea. TELMESSUS, 113 many accounts an interesting monument for contem- plation ; the subjoined sketch will show the present level of the sea, by the high- and low-water marks, which vary about two feet, as well as that of the sur- face of the ground. From many other tombs precisely similar in form, and which I have seen and sketched in various cities in Lycia, I venture to supply the base, which I doubt not lies buried in the earth ; thus making this tomb a register of a great change in the level of the ground, while its massive top, shaken from its original position, indicates an earthquake to have been the cause of such change. As a work of art amongst an early and re- fined people, it also stands a valuable monument ; but time has partially veiled its history, for the bas-reliefs only suggest an outline of more simple beauty than is found in any age but that of the purest of Greek art. 114 LYCIA. The -fragmental sketches of the bas-reliefs also may show this. , On leaving Macry, we crossed the valley towards the north-east, and continued in that direction ascending for three hours and a half through a beautiful pass along the side of a torrent, which leaped continually from rock to rock in its rapid course ; but our ascent was still steeper, for the river was often rolling in a ravine many hundred feet below us. The waters of the stream diminished as we proceeded, and on our reach- ing the little plain of this village, they appeared to claim it as their birth-place. The weU-cultivated valley of Hoozumlee was as un- expected to us at such an elevation, which by the ther- mometer exceeds two thousand feet, as was the popu- lation and well-built village. The latter has three or four mosques, and is wholly inhabited by Turks ; one Greek alone is here, who is employed in keeping in repair the various water-courses for the supply of the fountains from the lofty and craggy mountains which rise immediately at the back of the village. We are CADYANDA. 115 at the house of, the Aga, and have witnessed a curious scene each evening. It is seldom that thirty men so handsome inform, feature and dress, assemble in the same room ; they are probably the principal people of the place. Not a taint of European costume is yet seen here ; scarcely a man has ever left his mountain district, and everything about us was novel to them. I doubt whether in any other part of the world such a spirit of inquiry and quickness of comprehension would be met with in a similar village group. Our knives, instruments, pencils*, Indian rubber and paints, were examined, and tolerably well understood by most of the party. The pencil I gave to one was soon employed in writing a sentence in the Turkish language, which I found was the date of our arrival, and the name of the writer of the memorandum. We then wrote something in English, which was copied in facsimile, well and quickly executed. The remarks were natural expres- sions of wonder, but all showing reflection. The washing, the prayer, the dinner, and the reading aloud the firman, were each subjects for an artist. Our sketch-books were a great source of astonishment to all ; some looked at them the wrong way upwards, but all said " Allah, Allah !"" They recognized in the sketches the mosques, camels, birds, and a frog, with the greatest expressions of delight. April 8th. — Our attraction to this place was the re- port that ruins existed in the neighbourhood. We therefore started at eight o'clock this morning to as- i2 116 lycia; ceiid the mountain to the south. "Scarcely beyond the south-east end of the village, and in less than ten nii- 'nutes, we found among the bushes a tonib^df; the most usual 'kind cut in the rocks, resembling our Eliza- bethan domestic architecture. This tomb has been imuch shaken to pieces j apparently by an earthquake ^ but the detail of its execution we foiind to be of the highest interest. I do not hesitate in plateing this frag- ment in the finest age of Greek work; it shows by the simplest -effects the full expression of the history and ideas of the sculptured figures. Had th'ey been all per- fect, 4ts value in a museum, either for 'the philbiogisf; antiquarian or artist, would be inestimable.'' We made drawings of a portion*, and sketches in outline of the whole, which I think will bear out this opinion of them as works of art, and may afford- an ideaTof some of its bas-i^eliefs, ' Great additional interest is given to' these groups by the circumstance of several of the figures having over theni their names, after the manner of the Etr'us- fcan ; these inscriptions are in the Lycian language, and some bilingual with the Greek ; this I trust will materially assist in throwing light upon our ijgnoriance as ■ to the Lycian language, and these ■ sculptures may also be important illustrations. The bas-reliefs shown in the annexed Plate formed the upper part or panels of the sides bf the-tomb, beneath which were groups of * See Plate I. opposite the Title-pag'e. m CADYANDA. 117 larger figures engaged in combat, with arms of the simplest age of the Greeks. These figures were too much buried in the earth for us to attempt to sketch them. The name of EKTI2P was written over one with a helmet, round shield, and spear. Above the side- panels, and probably on what once formed the roof, were also the remains of five sculptured figures, of a similar size to the combatants below. The panel of the door in front shows a figure about five feet six inches in height. up/ ^P'^t OAAA^/7 4S^«AAA(( 1 1 ' 1^/ n ^ ^ -.jl ll^[ i ll!Ii|l' 118 LYCIA. The costumes, arms, vases and utensils, displayed in these bas-reliefs, are a study for the man of refined taste: the height of some of the figures- in the back- ground is unaccountable. Continuing for about a mile a steep ascent, we saw around us immense masses of rock rolled from their original position, and some containing excavated tombs, now thrown on their sides or leaning at angles, which must have caused the disentombment of their dead. The sculptured architecture of many had been split across, and but few remained uninjured in the cliffs. I sought in vain for inscriptions on any of the tombs around, probably twenty in number ; their architecture was purely Lycian, and evidently of the same date as the one just described as found in the valley below. A splendid sarcophagus' cut from the rock was tottering over the brow of a precipice before me : the position at which this tomb now stands appears so unnatural, that I have accurately sketched it. The outUnes of its bas- reliefs, which are shown in the annexed Plate, as well NORTH SIDE SOUTH SIDE Drawn *■ Etched by C. SoharP Jurr": T®MIB AT CA!D)YAIi^0A- CADYANDA. 119 as its form, indicate its age to be that of the Lycians, and, in the absence of inscriptions, must suffice to tell its history: the figures are nearly the size of life. If inscriptions had ever existed upon these tombs, the surface has so much perished by the atmosphere, that they would have probably been lost or illegible ; for I observe that all inscriptions of this age are slightly cut, and never form a part of, or interfere with, the effect of the groups or architecture. All the indications in the approach to this unknown city were Lycian, not omit- ting the remains of ingeniously built Cyclopean walls. Ascending for half an hour a steep scarcely access- ible on horses, we arrived at an elevation of about three thousand five hundred feet above the sea, which lay before us. The view was overwhelmingly beauti- ful. To the south-west lay the Bay of Macry, with its islands and the coast of the south of Caria, whUe be- yond lay the long and mountainous island of Rhodes. Cragus, with its snowy tops, broke the view towards the south, and the coast and sea oiF Patara measured its elevation by carrying the eye down to the valley of the Xanthus, whose glittering waters were visible for probably seventy miles, until lost in the range of high mountains, upon a part of which we were standing ; in this chain it has its rise in the north. The crags of limestone around us were almost concealed by a forest of fir-trees and green underwood. Before us was the city, surrounded by beautiful Cyclopean walls. The scattered stones of a fallen temple next inter- 120 LYCIA. rupted our path, on the way to the stadium : neither of its ends remained, and I feel sure that they have never been built up with seats, as seen in some of probably a later date. To the right of this stadium was the agora ; eight squared pillars or piers stand on either side. For nearly a quarter of a mile the ground was covered like a mason's yard with stones well squared, parts of columns, cornices, triglyphs and -pe- destals, and here and there stood still erect the jambs of the doors of buildings whose foundations alone are to be traced. Near the stadium some large walls with windows are still standing, and enclose some places, which have probably been for public amusements. The city is in many parts undermined by chambers cut in the rocks, and arched over with fine masonry : these no doubt were the basements or vaults of the large buildings of the town, or may have served for its stores of provisions ; at present they are the wonder and terror of the peasants, who relate, that in one great vault into which they had entered there were seven doors, all lead- ing in different directions. This report has given the name of Yeddy Cappolee, meaning ' seven doors,^' to the ruins, as well as to the mountain on which they stand. We descended towards the west, and came to the upper seats of a beautiful little theatre, in high preservation, a few large fir-trees alone interrupting the effect of the semicircle- of seats. The proscenium was a heap of ruins, only one or two of its door-ways being left stand- ing. The form of the theatre was like those in the east CADYANDA. 121 of Caria : in front were the Cyclopean walls of the city, blended with the more regular Greek, and evidently constructed at the same period. From this spot, for a quarter of a mile, were tombs, neither cut in the rocks, nor sarcophagi, nor of the usual architecture of Lycia, but of a heavy, peculiar, and massive style of building, not generally associated with our ideas of the Greek : there was no trace of bas-reliefs or ornaments,, and not a letter of the Lycian character among the numerous inscriptions, which were Greek, and much injured by time, I copied the following among others*, which are of interest, as in them I discovered the name of the city to be Cadyanda (KAAYANAEI2N). * The inscriptions here referred to are inserted in the Appendix to this volume. 122 LYt!IA. TOMNHMEIONKATEZKEYAZ AAAOrTOY EAYTHKAieVrATPIKAIEr NET NiiNMOVrENNHeHZOM IZKAAn N EANAETIZEIZBIAZHTAIKA HKEIZEIK YANAEI2N Ti2AHMIl^<|) * The total difference of these tombs in style from the elegant and highly-wrought specimens nearly two miles down the side of the mountain, and the difference of language in the inscriptions, made me inquire whether any other ruins existed lower down, but I could hear of none. Returning to the village, we found the principal peo- ple again assembled to see us, and all we had to show them. We learned that no European had before been • up to see the ruins, but that some Franks' had last year been as far as their village, and had bought some coins ; eight or nine I found in the possession of a man who had picked them up in the ruins. Hoping to learn from them something of the ancient city, I told my ser- vant to buy them, and he was in a violent rage at the exorbitant price demanded ; in his passion he forgot his nation, and said a Turk would never think of asking such a price, and that the owner of them was ah im- posing rogue. I found this man was the solitary Greek, whose occupation of digging drains had led him to dis- * Translation. — " This monument erected for herself and her daughter, and grand-children and those who shall be bom of them. But if any one shall violate [the tomb], he shall pay to the People of the Cadyandeans five hundred denarii." CADYANDA. 123 cover the coins : he was anxious to get all he could, but like a Greek, he took less than half he had at first asked. April 9th. — ^After a lovely ride for about fifteen miles to the south-east, over a woody range of mountains, and descending into the valley of the Xanthus, we arrived at the village of Hoorahn. For three or four miles before we crossed the main branch of the river, we traversed the well-cultivated and productive district called Sarzarkee, passing a tomb cut in the rock on the road-side, and bearing a fragment of a Lycian in- scription. Crossing the muddy stream which gives the colour and name to the Xanthus river, and riding for 'nearly a mile through a bushy swamp, we came to a rock rising fifteen or twenty feet above the plain, and about a mile from the village of Hoorahn. fhis rock was cut in all directions with tombs, many of them being of a style of architecture differing from those we had before seen. Several I have sketched, and from one have copied a few Greek letters, which are upon the panels of a door cut in the rock. OP OP e A GAro r o POY * The following small fragment I hope will assist in giving a name to these ruins. * " [The tomb] of Orthagoras." 124 LYCIA. MKiiiCM. €THCM eiMAceu A€IAT€YtO^ * Immediately before arriving at the village, we passed another burial-ground of the ancient city, but the na- tural rock was not here so favourable for architectural excavation, and hundreds of broken sarcophagi lay half buried in the ground ; in fact, many of them had the grave within the rock, scarcely above the surface, and the cavity had been covered with a lid of a peculiar form, having a tablet for inscription raised on its roof, which could not be placed in the usual position, upon the side of the sarcophagus itself ; the Greek characters could be traced upon them, but they were too much injured by time to be deciphered. The ancjent city, whose site is now occupied by the village and its sur- rounding fields, had a fine and singular situation ; it was slightly raised above the valley of the Xanthus, and appears to have commanded a ravine or gorge in the mountains at its back, down which gushes a large and extremely rapid river of clear water, and, running towards the south-west, soon joins, or almost forms, the river Xanthus : the small muddy stream which waters the valley from its commencement towards the north, and from the sandy colour of which it derives its name, * This seems to be a fragment of a public decree in honour of a public-spirited citizen of Maseicytus. MASSICYTUS. 125 forms but a diminutive portion, as compared with the river now roaring under our hut. Of the ancient city but little remains ; the higher part has been surrounded by a fine Cyclopean wall, although the large irregular stones composing it were chiselled round their edges, forming the cushion-shaped fronts used in many of the early Greek buildings, and since adopted by the Italians ; this mode is termed, I believe, rusticated. The basement and walls of several other buildings are also still standing, and a number of broken columns and pedestals show the remains of an orna- mented city. From one of them I copied an inscription, but I fear that it will throw no light upon the name of the ancient city. AYPHAIOZZ ANOSTOIZTO nATPOZAYTOYAAl MOZI AVPOCT€ANOI inOIAAIAA€in€ 6PMOAYKOV MMM.H^\\>i^ KATCCKeVA MMM. C€NKAI€n6 rPAfCNMeri- TOeNTAHNe CMgeiCTHNVr CTOAIKHV * * Translation.—" Aurelius Stephanus to the spirit of his father. Aurelius Stephanus. the son of Hermolycus, has built and inscribed it After burying me in the urn ' Contrary to custom, this inscription seems to have been written in 126 LYCIA. In the yard of one house we were taken to see some beautiful pavements, formed in elegant patterns, with small diflFerent-coloured slabs of marble. These pave- ments had formed the floors of three different apart- ments, each probably not more than eight feet square, and all very near together ; one was of small stones, of the size, and quite similar in arrangement to, the Roman mosaic : these buildings, from their dimensions, can have been only baths. I have obtained but few coins here, for the people only preserve silver or gold ones, which may serve as ornaments ; they have never before had visitors to see their ruins, and cannot understand our motives for seeking copper coins, or for travelling. They tell us that their country is filled with ruins ; and we have this morning been a ride and laborious walk up a mountain, nearly at the upper extremity of the valley, in search of old cities : there are, however, only the traces of some rude Cyclopean walls around the craggy summit of the hill ; the absence of other buildings and tombs leads me to suppose it to have been only a fortified castle on the eastern side of the valley : directly opposite to this, on the west side, was a point covered with similar ruins. Our excursion today of six miles has given us a more perfect idea of the valley ; we have at least two columns, of which that on the right probably contained the usual provisions against any one else besides the proprietor's family being buried in the tomb. MASSICYTUS. 127 ascertained that nothing more is to be found in this direction, and are now satisfied that our research commenced at its northern extremity: tomorrow we intend to pursue our route down its course to the south-west. 128 .1 - CHAPTER VI. Arohifectuie ; Rocks, Buildings, Cottages, Grranaries— Tlos — Rock- tornlTs— Ancient Sculpture — Minara, the ancient Pinara — Ruins — Bas-reliefs in Tombs — Habits of the People. April llth. — I AM again much struck on entering this undisturbed district of Asia Minor, at witnessing , the unchanged customs of the people ; everything tells of the ancient inhabitants of two or three thousand years ago, whose mode of life probably, differed but little from that of the present-pastoral people. The annexed sketch (Plate IX.*) will show the varie- ties of rock-architecturefi and the one following, those in the built tombs seen in Lycia. I have selected these from my sketches made in the various cities, but plac- ing them less thickly in the rock than they are often seen in this country, and have added figures referring to their several localities. The cottage or hut is precisely * Nos. 1 and 6 at Massicytus ; 2, 3 and 4 at Telmessus ; 5 and 8 at Tlos; 7, 9 and 12 atPinsira; 10 between Limyra and Arycanda; and 1 1 at Liinjnra. t Plate X. Nos. 1 and 8 at Telmessus ; 2 and 5 at Cadyanda; 3 at Xanthus ; 4 and 6 at Sidy ma; 7 at Calynda; and 9 at Massicytus. 5 h s m 3 != o Id i o (9 < > Q > =1 3 m P Mi 3 N m =5 3 VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS. 129 a model for a temple; and ther various kinds (for all'have the same character) suggest each some form or-order, whose peculiarity has becom« classic and scientific': it is here onlyiperpetuated, and nbt adopted, by the present peasants. "■ ■ -' ' '■■'■■ The storehouses, large box-like barnS; in which the grain and property is preserved, are throughout' this district seen, and recognized by me, as precisely similar, in form and detail of apparent construction of ties and bolts, to the Elizabethan description of tombs so com- monly cut in the rocks around them. These modern bams are generally slightly roofed ; the gable or pedi- ment supports a pole at each of its angles, the ends commonly protruding beyond the roof, which is of thin planks^ laid one over the other, and giving at the end the effect of a cornice to the ' pedimentj the whole of which is never so well finished as the barns beneath,' and appears as a temporary covering : a slight pediment is likewise often seen accompanying this form of tomb, sculptured in the rocks. The similarity of the store- house represented in the annexed sketch to the ancient tomb is strikingly obvious; even the beam-ends mjty form the orniaments prjstruding from the angles of the pediment. '■ "-' ^^ In the various cottages, the roof, whic^i .is always of earth, is held in its form by an attic of stones; upon this roof, as I have often before mentioned, the Turks keep a roller for levelling and rendering the earth water-' tight ; but at the edges and on the corners, where the K 130 LYCIA. roller cannot press, weeds often grow luxuriantly, and this suggests the tuft-like leaf ornament so often seen in the Greek buildings rising froni the edge of the roofs. The Greek generally lives in a hut built with more art and neatness, but still of a temple-like form, as may be suggested by the sketch ; his hut is usually whitened, while that of the Turk is of mud, imbedding stones, sticks, or straw, as circumstances offer the material. The walls never form the strength of the house, which derives its support entirely from the framework of tim- bers resting upon the columns or upright stems of trees on the outside ; stones placed under these, to prevent their sinking into the ground, form bases, while the beams resting upon their tops appear as capitals ; in front, a stone or piece of wood is placed upon these posts, to support the ends of the beams, which are the dentils in the frieze of this simple little building. In this portion of Asia Minor all the remains of the temples show a square chamber or cella, entered by an ornamented door of noble proportions ; this is always within a portico in antis, sometimes having two co- lumns in front. I have nowhere in Lycia seen any trace of temples that I could say with certainty were of other construction. This form is evidently seen in the huts here represented. Is it not highly probable, that these sketches may represent the huts and storehouses of the people of three thousand years ago, which at an after period were imitated in stone, and their forms cut in the rocks, making the temple a large house, and VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS. 131 the tomb a durable receptacle for the dead ? Time has witnessed these changes ; but the simple hut, which has served as the abode of the peasants through successive generations to the present day, has remained unaltered. This may at once explain the total absence of even the trace of the residence of the people in the ancient Greek cities, as the materials would not endure for half a cen- tury: the public buildings alone remain to point out the extent of the cities. I think this idea is borne out by the incidental testimony of history. Herodotus speaks of the houses of the people of Sardis as being of reeds and mud, and in still earlier days we know that the whole of Athens was built of wood. Our ride of about twenty-four miles from Hoorahn to Dooveer was nearly due south ; we crossed the smaller muddy river, where it is divided into several streams, and skirted the western side of the upper bay or en- largement of the valley, until it became narrowed into a mere strait by the green-wooded hills flanking either range of mountains. Near this point is the village of Satala Hissti or Satala-cooe, six hours to the east of Macry. Continuing our route, in half an hour we ar- rived at a well-built bridge of five arches, crossing the bold river, which had received the important addition from Hoorahn, as well as many other tributaries : from this point we crossed diagonally the again widening valley, and in half an hour passed a very considerable stream, on its course to the river, issuing from a ravine in the mountains towards the east, at the village of k2 132 LYCIA. Kopngelar. At a distance of three miles from Dooveer, in passing near a rock which protruded from the moun- tains, we were struck by a strong, sulphury smell, and saw a rapid stream of clear water running, near us, whose course was encrusted with a greenish-white de- posit ; this hot spring issues from the rock, and I hear that the people use its waters medicinally ; on first gush- ing from its source they have not this smell, which exudes upon exposure to the atmosphere. The whole ride down this upper vaUey is beautiful, and varies continually; its scenery, on approaching the bold and Greek-like situation of the ancient city of Tlos, is stri- kingly picturesque. Leaving our baggage at the lower village, we at once rode up to the ancient city, on the acropolis' of which many families now reside : although an hour's ride distant, it also bears the name of Doo- veer, the few houses in the valley consisting only of the Aga's residence and four or five water-mills. April \^th. — I have had more opportunity for exa- mining the ruins of this city than on my former visit, when from inscriptions T discovered it to be the an- cient Tlos. . My general impressions remain the same, and further research has only confirmed my opinion as to the taste and luxurious ornament of the ancient city. . I have copied many more inscriptions, prin- cipally from the tombs, which have been most costly and curious constructions. The greater number not only have their fronts architecturally ornamented, but, on entering, we found them to have a kind of lobby, TLOS. 133 the panelled framework being repeated within, and often ornamented in a richer style ; some of these are still beautiful, but what must they have been when first executed, perhaps twenty-five centuries ago ! Many of the letters of the inscriptions retain their varied colouring, and over the doors remnants of painted flowers and wreaths, red, green, and white, are still to be traced ; but the most perfect historical information which is preserved to us respecting the ornaments of these tombs, is derived from the sculpture, which shows all the beauty of simple line and exquisite proportion of figure, and is sufficiently legible to be of the highest interest to the antiquarian and student of ancient my- thology and history. I hope the sketches I have made may throw some light upon the subject. From one of the tombs in the rock I copied the fol- lowing inscription : ZH • TOHPnONKATEZKEYAZENZflZIMOZ N El KHTI KOYBTOYAYZAN lOYTAXlEYZEAYTOKAl TEKNOIZKAirVNAIKIKAITOIZElAYTOYKAIilANEN rPAnZZYNXIlPHZHEANAETIZAIXATOYZYNXi2 PHZAITON KATEZKEYAKOTAZilZI MONOYH TINAO«l>EIAHZEITnJEPI2TATnTAMEI hehiteimioy^ • /a • eanaezynxh PHZHTI N lOKATEZKEYAKflZZilZI MOZE ZEIEEOYZlANOAABnNTOZYNXilPHMA OIZANBOYAHTAieAHTEIN * * Translation. — " In his life-time. Zosimus, the grandson of Nice- ticus, the son of Lysanias, a citizen of Tlos, has built the Heroum, for 134 LYCIA. The figures sculptured on the rock, are, I have no doubt, of the same age as those accompanied by the Lycian characters, but I have again sought in vain for a single letter of that language in this city. I ob- tained three or four coins from the children, who gladly exchanged them for half a piastre each ; but the ab- sence of travellers makes them careless of looking for them, and many hidden treasures may still remg,in amidst the ruins which form hills of broken fragments of stone, and pieces of pottery and glass. Among the coins I find several silver and copper ones' of the an- cient city. On the side of one of the tombs cut in the rock I observed a bas-relief representing combatants engaged, apparently without swords, and pulling at each other's shields. This, which I have observed in other places, may probably represent some of the popular games. From the front of the tomb I copied the annexed in- scription : himself and his wife and his children, and their descendants, and to ■whomsoever he shall make a grant in writing. But if any one, without the builder Zosimus making him a grant, shall bury any one [in this tomb], he shall owe to the most holy treasury a fine of 1500 denarii. But if the builder Zosimus make a grant to any one, he that receives the grant shall have leave to bury whomsoever he likes." In all the funeral inscriptions of Tlos, the tomb is called Heroum ; and in one, that will be given hereafter, the deceased is called a Hero. The word in our inscription which is translated bury, means in Greek to sacrifice. TLOS. 135 AZIHZJEZANAPOYHTOYAIONYZIOY AEAOM ENOY^NXnPH M ATOZKYPEI AZEN n ITP OYNMMM)^TOYMEn I APXI EPEOZKAIZI ANOY TOAJ-JYnO^nOAAilNOYTOYKAl EI«I>H N AIOY AlAOJIZOZEeAnTAI^^EZEZANAPOZBTOYAIONYZIOYOnATHP KAIYIOZAAEZANAPOZEIPHAIOYTA«l>HZEAIAEKAIAYTHKAIOANHPAYTHZ ^PHN^OZZXinBIOYZ^A^AAXlAEOYNENIEZEZTH OAi'J^^^HAnZEITAilEnNTHrEPOYZIA 4'AnONEN^^.JZTO#X>NAHM4'ETAI * * Translation. — " [High-priestess ?] of Asia, the daughter of Alex- ander, the grandson of Dionysius the cession of the property being made under the high -priest Csesianus of Ireuaeus .... There has been buried Alexander, the grandson of Dio- nysius, her father, and her son Alexander, the son of Irenseus, and there shall be buried herself also, and her husband Irenseus, the son 136 LYCIA. The tomb, sculptured high up in the rock, in the form of an Ionic temple, we found to be of great inter- est, and I doubt not, from the sketch in the annexed Plate, it will be appreciated by the antiquarian and lover of ancient history and poetry : the sketch repre- sents the inner front within the Ionic portico, in the pediment of which were sculptured animals resewibling panthers, but too much mutilated to be copied. On the left side, on entering the portico, was a spirited bas-relief of Bellerophon, and beneath his horse Pega- sus the vanquished Chimera. To find this in a city in the valley of the Xanthus, cut in the rock, at once gives reality and place to the poetic description -of the services of this classic hero. It will be remembered that Bellerophon is represented as a royal exile, sent to Jobates king of Lycia, and favoured by Neptune and Minerva ; from them he received the horse Pegasus, and with it conquered both man and beast in various combats in Lycia, over which country he afterwards he- came king, before the time of the Trojan war. Among of Sosibios [?] . To no one else it shall be allowed to bury another [here], or he shall give to the Gerusia of Tlos 1500 denarii [?], of which he that proves the trespass shall receive one-third." It is the more to be regretted that part of this inscription has disap- peared, and that thus several words stiU remaining are without con- nexion, as these may have explained the curious fact of bas-reliefs re- presenting gymnastic games being found on the tomb of a woman. Probably this Priestess of Asia was a Gymnasiarches (a munificent pa- troness of gymnastic games), a title which is- given to another woman in an inscription at Mylasa (page 68).^ y 00.00 u o # o 0.^ o o o o o u o o ^ o o o o O 2 E PINARA. 137 his other conquests, in this very valley, he slew a wild hoar which had destroyed the fruits and cattle of the Xanthians, but for his services he received no reward. He therefore prayed to Neptune that the fields of the Xanthians should exhale a salt dew, and be universally corrupted. This continued until Bellerophon, at the intercession of the women, again prayed to Neptune to remove the eflfect of his indignation. It was on this account that the women of the Xanthians were held in such high esteem, that their children eA'^er after were named from their mothers, rather than their fathers — a custom which afterwards prevailed generally over the whole of Lycia. April 14th.— We yesterday left Dooveer, and, return- ing across the vaUey for about four miles, we came to the river, which was here fordable, owing to its stream being divided by a small island. The water was four or five feet deep. After having crossed, we turned to the southward, and gradually bore into the range of the Cragus mountains, in a south-westerly direction, for about nine miles, when we arrived at the little vil- lage called Minara. Near this place we had heard of the existence of ruins, and the similarity of name to the ancient Pinara, a large city of Lycia, made us seek here its site ; knowing also that in many instances in Greece the n has been changed into an M in after times. The ride had been beautiful, amidst well-grown fir-trees, and enriched with underwood now in bloom ; the white and the Ulac cistus eclipse many of the more 138 LYCIA. beautiful flowers of the vetch tribe, which are blossom- ing beneath their bushes. The village of Minara is very small, but beautifully situated on the declivity of a hill of almost bare rock ; little shelves or terraces of ground are therefore of value, and are generally covered with trees. On one of these terraces my tent is pitched ; the view before it extends over bushes of pomegranate, and the middle distance of wooded hills adds richness and beauty to the more distant view of the valley of the Xanthus, with its lofty barrier of mountains rising to the height of the ancient Massicytus, which is p«petually capped with snow. A fine olive-tree overhangs one side of our tent, and a lemon-tree shades the door ; beyond are se- veral orange-trees, and on the terrace above, at the back, are fig-trees and some magnificent quinces, now in full bloom — I had almost said in blossom like roses, but amidst them is a large tree of the cabbage-rose, twelve or fourteen feet high, whose sweet flowers have a prior claim to beauty. A rose has just been pre- sented to me by a young Turk boy, which scents the tent deUghtfuUy. Our stores of lemons and figs have here been replenished, and we now find a plentiful supply of corn for the horses, with butter, kymac, youghoort, eggs and fowls for ourselves, none of which could we obtain at any price on the other side of the valley. April 1 5th. — My search for the ancient Pinara has not been in vain, and I am amply repaid by the discovery of PINARA. 139 its most interesting ruins about a mile further up the mountain. From amidst the ancient city rises a singu- lar round rocky cliff*, literally speckled all over with tombs. There must be some thousands, and most of them are merely oblong holes cut in the perpendicular front of the rock, which is apparently inaccessible. Be- neath this cliff lay the principal part of the extensive and splendid city of Pinara. Two other places, at dif- ferent elevations, were also covered with massive build- ings, and on either side of these were tombs scattered for a considerable distance, many of them of the gothic- form sarcophagus, and some surrounded by columns ; but the most perfect and the most highly interesting * The Lycian word Pinara is said by Stephanus Byzantinus to mean something round; this is here singularly illustrated. 140 LYCIA. were those below the city cut in the rocks. The the- atre is in a very perfect state ; all the seats are remain- ing, with the slanting sides towards the proscenium, as well as several of its doorways. The ingenious mode of the tying form of these stones is coeval with the walls of Cyclopean construction. The walls, and several buildings of the city, were of the Cyclopean style, with massive gateways formed of I — "t— ■ (= m PINARA. 141 three immense stones. I measured one over the portal, which was fourteen feet in length : the buttresses of the same walls were of regularly squared stones. These modes of building were both used in the same works, and certainly at the same time ; the Cyclopean, which is generally supposed to be the older mode, I have often seen surmounting the regular Greek squared stone walls. The whole city appears to be of one date and people, and, from its innumerable tombs, must have existed for a long series of generations and from a very early period. The inscriptions are gene- rally in the Lycian character, but the Greek occurs on the same tombs with the Lycian, which will pro- bably add to our ^knowledge of the latter ; and these again may be explained by bas-reliefs, which are here of exciting interest. I have endeavoured to explsiin, that in some of the tombs at Tlos occurs a portico, within which are pre- served highly interesting historical bas-reliefs. One fine tomb before me, shown in the annexed Plate, is of similar construction, and is a finished specimen of the Elizabethan order, with a pediment ornamented with groups of figures, one representing the instruction of a child ; on the frieze, which is under dentils, each finished with a sculptured head, is another spirited group, apparently rejoicing; but within the portico, on either side, are views of the ancient city cut in relief on four different panels. I know no instance of a si- milar insight into the appearance of the ancient cities. 142 LYCIA. These views exhibit the forms of the tops of the walls, which are embattled, the gaJteWays, and even the sen- tinels before them. The upper portions of th« walls are rarely found remaining at the present day, and I have too often perhaps attributed those I have seen to the Venetian age. The form of the battlements is very singular ; none now are left upon the ruined walls of this city, but the tombs and towers might be still selected, probably from the same point of view as re- presented in these bas-reliefs. Another tomb cut in the rock also interested me. On my former visit, from seeing the numerous sarco- phagi with the gothic-formed roofs, and the hog's- mane along their top, I suggested that they had each had a crest or ornament at either end, which, being exposed and prominent parts, had been broken off. I here find cut in the rock an imitation of this form of s m © 5 m (±1 <« PINARA. 143 sarcophagus, and its end surmounted by a crest. This, being cut in reUef, has remained unbroken. The crest itself is also of historical interest. Herodotus, in descri- bing the different nations joining the army of Xerxes, relates that the people of Bithynia carried two Lycian spears, and had helmets of brass, on the summits of which were the " ears and horns of an ox." The expense of constructing the innumerable tombs has hitherto been to me perfectly unaccountable. I have just measured one; the form is of the most frequent style, and has its inner fcont ; but the whole appeared so much in relief from the rock, that I climbed up, and found that I could walk by the side, which was orna- mented and as highly finished as the front ; this pas- sage continued again along the back, making a perfectly independent building or sculptured mausoleum, eighteen feet six inches deep ; the cutting from the face of the rock was twenty-six feet deep, directly into its hard mass. I have in one instance found an interesting in- sight into the probably usual mode of constructing these tombs. Seeing the face of a rock, as it were, only designed for a tomb — the columns being merely square props, with lumps at their tops and thick at the bot- tom, and with the pediment only a protruding mass — I entered, and found the portico formed square, but not smoothened or shaped for ornament ; but the door of the tomb, which was small, was highly finished, repre- senting frame and nails, and on the panels handsome ring-knockers, all cut in the marble rock. For the 144 LYCIA. purpose of pillaging the tomb, this door had not been moved side-ways in its groove (the usual manner of opening them), but a small hole had been broken in the rock at the side. Putting my head into this, I found the tomb had been finished within, and that the bones of at least two ancient Greeks lay scattered on the floor. This specimen shows that some of the tombs were formed for the reception of the dead, and after- wards finished, probably at a later period. I have copied the following inscription from a pedestal. AlONYZIONBTOYAIOrENOYZ AIONYZIOZ AlOrENOYZ KAIAPZAZIZ lAZONOZTON EAYTHNYON ^^^^ lAZnNAE KAIAPZAZIZ OIAIONYZI OYTONEAY TllNAAEAON ^ HPI2A* * Translation. " Dionysius, the grandson of Diogenes. Dionysius, But Jason and the son of Diogenes and Arsasis, the daughter of Jason their son. the Hero. Arsasis, the children of Dionysius their brother. PINARA. 145 Upon the muUion of a rock-tomb is the following : TOMNHNnOM ANnnATPOYAIZ TOVniZEAAPOY ENIlBEBOYAnTAY TAHNAIMETATin AX20B inn EATON TEKAITNNrYNAKA AYTOYMAAANBn nNOZZAAETIZE niXEIPINHETEPON OAS'AIOi^EIAEZEl rnniNAPoznAEiN MnAHNAPIAHEN TAKOZIAAONTO THTONOEAENOAZAMNS'ETAITOYTOKAIAIATilN APXZIIlNAEAHAnTAr OAEnAriAZ TEfPAAEAIATI nOIHZASEZTIl lEPOZYAOZOE OEOIZOYHANIOIZ KAIKAIKATAXGO NIOIZKAITOriPOZ TEIMONAnOTEl ZATilAIAH AilTAIAPT lEHEOEAPTE TAAPOVE VnEPKEPE TAIOY A* * Translation. — " The monument of Antipater, the grandson of Pise- darus [?] , in which he has determined after to be buried L T4G LYCIA. The letters of the Lycian inscriptions in this city, cut into the rock, I find have generally been coloured — ^red, yellow, green, or light blue ; the letters varying alternately with two colours *. tBflA/fitBYEAT: tBTBEVT: How httle is known even of the names of the ancient Greek buildings! I find the usual vocabulary sadly deficient in supplying appellations for many edifices crowded together in this very ancient city ; several have long parallel walls, built of massive and good masonry, with numerous doorways, and simple but himself, and his -wife Mala, the daughter of Bito. But if any one shall attempt to bury another [in the tomb] , he shall owe to the People of the Pinareans 500 denarii, of which the party that convicts him shall receive one-third. This has likewise been declared in the archives. But he who shall do anything against these regulations, shall be a sa- crilegious person vaxto the gods of heaven and of hell, and shall besides pay the fine. [This] has been declared under [?] the high-priest Artemidorus [?] on the thirtieth day of Hyperberetseus." The month of Hyperberetaeus was the last in the Ephesian and the Syro-Macedonian almanacks, and in the former extended from the 24th of August to the 24th of September. * I have selected a repetition of the same word, which almost always commences the sepulchral inscriptions in the Lycian language, in order to show the variety of form used in the third and sixth letters, but which are evidently the same character. PINARA. 147 bold cornices. Others are more square in form, with a fine sweeping circular recess at one end ; they have often four doorways, and columns lying about within the buildings. Near and within one of the entrances to the upper part of the city, are the remains of a very small theatre, or probably an Odeum ; I have not be- fore seen one so small; it would serve as a lecture- room of the present day, where all the powers of the orator might have full effect. Beneath the surface of the highest part of the city are large square chambers, cut in the rock and arched over with masonry ; the whole of the inside is beautifully plaistered with a white stucco, having a polished surface like marble. These have no doubt been stores for corn and other provisions for the city. While rambling among the ruins, a peasant brought me ten copper coins, all extremely small, but all Greek, found by himself in a few yards of soil which he had cultivated around his hut. I gave him five piastres, and was soon the possessor of above fifty on the same terms : many of them are probably valueless, but their being all from this place gives to them an interest; for this city is yet unknown to Europeans, and no coins are possessed by any of the museums. Among the coins I notice many with the head of a ram, and inscribed with the name of the city*; some also of Tlos, and one or two of Eastern nations of the age of * See Plate XXXIV. Nos. 13 and 14. l2 148 LYCIA. Antiochus, about three centuries before Christ, but none of a later date. The people had never before seen a Frank ; an old man told me that none had ever been up to his vil- lage : their manners were naturally the more simple, and of this I must give an instance. Three, or four men, one of them very old, were the most attentive and curious in watching and assisting us to move stones and leading the way through bushes ; of course we returned this civility by signs of obligation. We soon became more intimate, and they ventured to make remarks, noticing the spectacles worn by one of my companions, and placing them before their own eyes ; these and a magnifying-glass astonished them ex- ceedingly. Our pencils and books were equally novel to them. Soon afterwards a pretty little girl joined our group, with a red skull-cap much faded by the sun, and from which were suspended chains of glitter- ing coins, confining her hair, that hung in many long plaits down her back, in the manner of the ancient Egyptians : rows of coloured beads hung around her brown open breast. This child was pushed forward to present to me an egg, which I exchanged for half a piastre, and all fear of the Frank at once ceased. Other eggs were brought, my plant-box and hands were soon filled, and I was reminded of nly former servant's instruction, that presents are very dear things in this country — the price of eggs being twenty or thirty for a piastre. PINARA. 149 We made signs to our officious cicerones that we wished to cUmb to the upper part of the city, but they opposed this, and we were compelled to understand that we must follow them to their huts close by. We did so, and were received by three women, the wives of our guides, at the doors of their huts, and a carpet was soon spread on the ground in front, on which we reclined, while each woman brought out her present; one, a large bowl of kymac, another, one of youghoort, and the third a supply of fresh-baked bread of the country ; two wooden spoons were placed for our use, and the eyes of a dozen peasants assembled around were riveted upon us. The dogs, which always assail the stranger most fiercely with their barking, lay asleep by our side, acknowledging us as the guests of their kind masters. The cow, which is here but little larger than the dogs, was being milked ; and on the broken columns and stones piled around sat, our hostesses, while their husbands were on the ground still nearer. Among them were five or six children, each most pic- 150 LYCIA. turesquely and classically dressed. I cannot help again noticing the close resemblance of the costume of the women to the ancient statues : the hair is worn long and braided round the head; one old woman of the party had it tied in a knot at the top of the fore- head, exactly as I have seen represented in the antique. Their arms had each the simple armlet or bracelet of gold ; sometimes two or three on one wrist, and always a fibula of silver or gold to hold together the loose tunic or shirt ; the upper jacket is embroidered most richly ; the trowsers, extremely loose, and confined at the ankle, are generally red, blue, or white, and often ornamented with silver embroidery or spangles ; those .before us were only worked with coloured silks. The people here are Chinganees, or gipsies, as I no- ticed when in this district before ; they therefore show their faces, and are not so secluded as the Turkish women generally. A child presenting me with a flower, gave me an opportunity of substantially acknowledging my obligation for this true hospitality : the whole scene to me was most pleasing. It is delightful to meet with so simple and naturally kind a people, and apparently devoid of any prejudice against those thought to be so opposed to themselves in every opinion. 151 CHAPTER VIL Discovery of Sidyma — its Tombs — ^Temples — Natural History — Lions — Ancient Fort — Xanthus — Sarcophagus-tomb — Lycian Inscription upon Obelisk — Ancient Sculptures — Harpies — Chariots — Animals — Processions — ^Tomb — Customs of the Feasants. April 1 5th. — Leaving Minara, we travelled towards the south-west, over a range of wooded hills separating our little valley from another as beautiful. These recesses or bays from the valley of the Xanthus are particularly rich, and might be productive ; they are in a better state of cultivation than most parts of this country. The lands have a gradual incUnation down to the valley, and are screened on either side by the wooded hills protruding from the range of the Oragus. As a type of the general character of the vegetation we passed, I will describe the first of these bays after our leaving Minara. The whole valley has probably been, like the hills above, covered with underwood, and a track through them has been the road we have fol- lowed. In order to cultivate the land, the underwood has all been burnt or grubbed up, leaving on either 152 LYCIA. side of the way a belt of vegetation to form fences to the fields. These hedges are therefore not of one description, but vary at every bush, and mingle wildly together, producing at this season a beauty and luxu- riance which regales all the senses. The predominant shrub is the myrtle, and next the small prickly oak ; with these are mingled the pomegranate, the orange, wild olive, oleander, and the elegant gum-storax ; these are matted together by the vine, clematis, and aspara- gus : in the fields are left standing, for their shade as well as their fruit, the carob, the fig, and the oak. Bar- ley is the principal produce of the fields at this season, but the old stems of the maize show the second crop of the last year. A few huts in the centre of this valley give the name of Yakabalyer to the plain also. Another valley further on our way, in which stands Kestdp, is more wooded, appearing, as we ascended through a forest of fir-trees on the hill of separation, one wood of splendidly-grown oaks ; they are the Quercus cegylops, which is here a considerable source of wealth from its acorns, called by the Smyrna mer- chants Velanea ; the timber would, if wanted for the market, be of high value. On entering a third of these valleys, called, from its village, Guilemet, we turned up a ravine to the west, leading directly into the midst of the Cragus range ; this was about ten miles from Minara. Gradually ascending for nearly two hours, we arrived at the vil- lage of Tortoorcar, where we sought the remains of an SIDYMA. 153 ancient city, but were told that high in the mountains above us were the ruins, and within them was the vil- lage of Tortoorcar Hisstf. We climbed for more than an hour up a steep, quite unfit for horses, when we found ourselves amidst the splendidly-built tombs of an unknown city of the ancient Greeks. The following inscription I copied from one of them, which was two stories high and had a portico. T#//iNHMEIONKATECKEYACENEnArA eOZ^JZCIAYMEYZEAYTWKAITHrYNAIKIAYTOYAP ZEIJiHKAIMIWKAAAIMHAOYKAITEKNOIZAYTOY EnAFAeWTPIZKAIAPZEITHKAIArAeHTYXHKAIEr roNOizEnArAewTWKAiAEiioKAiEnArAewEni TWTA«!>H N AITOYZn POAH AOYM ENOYZENTI2AN U) ZHKWETEPU)AEMHAENIEZEINAITAHNAIENTUJ ANWZHKU)ENAETOIZKATU)ZHKOIZTAHNAIMHTE PAAYTO^M AAABAGPI N H N KAI En APOAEITON KA ZnZIMHN TOYZEnArAeO#/ilZTEANONE MOY AlZTOYnTOAEMAIOYKArKAAOTYXONnOnAlOY KAIYIONAYTOYKAAOTYXONETEPWAEMHAEN EEEZTWGAS'AHZTOMNHMEIONETEPONTINAE ANAETIZeJS'HOEIAEZETnZIAYMEnNAHMn A<|)XnNO^ J'ZAA /i JEHITOTPITON H AEH POAH AOYM£N\SMMMMM.MM^HKMA\AT£lNAPXE\ilN EniAPXIEJ^J/i^/iJ^INTOYAnEAAAlOY* * Translation. — "Epagathus twice [«. e. the grandson of another Epagathus], a citizen of Sidyma, has built the monument for himself and his wife Arsis, also called Mion, the daughter of Callimedes and his children : Epagathus thrice [«. e. great-grandson of another Epaga- thus] and Arsis, also called Agathe Tyche Xi. e. Good luck], and his 154 LYCIA. These fragments were inscribed under the pediment and within the portico of the same tomb. nOKATEZENEHAr GOZAIZZIAYMEYZ HAE IIEZEI riNNAI HANIIZH NAEPOIZ ZHKOIZ lAIMH AYTOY * The inscriptions soon told the name of this city to have been Sidyma, and the style of its architecture led me to assign to it a date purely Greek, but by no means grandchildren, Epagathus, also called Dius and Epagathus. But upon the above-mentioned persons being buried in the upper tombs, it shall be lawful for nobody else to be buried in the *upper tombs ; but in the lower tombs there are to be buried his mother Malabathrine, and Epaphrodeitos and Zosime, the children of Epagathus, and Ste- phanos, the son of Hermus [?], grandson of Ptolemeeus and Caloty- chus, the son of Publius, and his son Calotychus. But to nobody else it shall be permitted to bury another in the monument ; but if any- body do bury, he shall owe to the People of the Sidymeans 1500 [?] denarii, of which he who proves [the trespass] shall have [?] one-third. The inscription given above is likewise [recorded] in the archives under the high-priest on the day of ApeUseus — [i. e. second month of the Syro-Macedonians, from the 24th of October to the 24th of November] ." * These fragments probably belonged to some abstracts of the pre- ceding inscription, which were written on different parts of the tomb. Drawn by C- Fallow* Eiq' m m COFFERED CEILIhiC. Etched by 0- ScharT Jui AT SO(D)YKfi]A = John Murray. London 1841, SIDYMA. ' 155 so early as that of Pinara or any of the cities more marked by the Lycian peculiarities. In this city we saw no Cyclopean walls, and none of that other ex- treme of art, diflfering in all points but its simplicity, the sculpture accompanying the Lycian inscriptions. I saw only one ornamented tomb in the rocks, and but two or three of the gothic-formed sarcophagi : one of these was inscribed with the following Greek cha- racters : ArAGOKAHZ KAIAPNAKH£ 0APNAKOKA TEZKEYAZAN I obtained but few inscriptions out of the very many on the tombs, on account of the perished state of the surface of the marble in this elevated situation. The annexed Plate will show one of the tombs of white marble ; the slab forming the ceiling I have drawn separately, to show the high finish of its sofits. The extreme cost of ornament, and the great size of the tombs standing on stoas fitted for temples, surprised me much ; they were like the tombs of a large city which had disappeared ; but the city remained to show its original extent, which was very small; its agora, * Translation.-^" Agathocles and Phamaces, the son of Phamaees, have built the monument." 156 LYCIA. theatre, and other buildings were indeed almost too small to be recognized as suitable to the purposes of the public meetings of the people of a city. Several square buildings, not larger than many of the tombs, have evidently been temples ; the scale and beauty of their doorways cannot have suited any other edifice : I sought in vain for inscriptions near them. We here saw a building rather apart from the town, similar to others which I have noticed elsewhere, having a square room, with a circular end, and side buildings forming little covered saloons with many SIDYMA. 157 doors : these ruins retain much of their stucco, which has been painted with borders and wreaths of flowers, and part of a female figure, in red, blue, green, yellow, and white colours. The' present state of this district is extremely wild ; only three or four huts are amidst these ruins on the mountain, and their occupants have always their gun slung over their shoulder, even within the limits of their own cultivated fields. On inquiry as to why this custom prevailed, we were told that the country was full of wild animals, and of the fiercest kind. I was extremely cautious and particular in my inquiries as to their nature, and have no doubt of the truth of the account which I heard from many of the people of the surrounding district, and each unknown to the other. In this village alone, four or five lions, called Asian by the Turks, and other animals called Caplan (the leo- pard) are killed every year. The man who first told me, had himself taken the skins to the Aga, to present to different Pashas, and these presentations had been re- warded by sums of one to two hundred piastres, which he had himself received. The lions, he said, are timid unless surprised or attacked, and I could not hear that they did much injury to the flocks. Wolves— and, if I understand rightly, the hyaena also — are found here ; and the latter are described as gnashing their teeth together; my Greek servant adds, that such animals strike fire from their mouths, but this occurs in his travels in Persia. I have heard the same from show- 158 LYCIA. men at our country fairs, among other exaggerated wonders. Bears are certainly found here in great num- bers. I observe the most costly buildings in this district are the apiaries, which are formed of a square of high walls, open at the top only ; within this the hives are placed, and a ladder is used, if entry is required — a pre- caution which is essential to keep away the bears from the honey. This, which reminded me of the illustra- tions of ^sop's fables, was the more interesting from its being his native country. The moral of the fable is preserved; but the hives that I have seen pictured would not be known by the bees of this country, as' their house is here more simple, being universally the hollowed section of a fir-tree. Snakes are also abun- dant in this district, but they are most numerous in the lower valleys. An island opposite to Macry, at the foot of the Cragus range, is wholly given up to them ; and the ruins of an earlier village, called Macry-vec- chia, probably of a late Roman age, are shown as the remains of a town deserted on account of the number of snakes. The people object even to approach the island, and I doubt not that their fears greatly exag- gerate the number and size of these animals. My servant saw one, which he considered small, among the ruins of Cadyanda ; it measured six feet, and was as thick as his arm. Uslann, April \6th. — 1 have seldom passed a more rugged, and never a worse road with baggage-horses, than today ; the distance on the map is not great, but DELTA OF THE XANTHUS. 159 we have been five hours on the way. For the first hour, after leaving Tortoorcar Hissed, we ascended a craggy mountain covered with fir-trees, and then arrived at a little cultivated plain. Around this were barren crags, scarcely affording pasture to the flocks of large black goats on their rocky sides : the height to which they had climbed made me giddy as I looked up to seek whence came their bleating. From this elevated mountain pass, we obtained oc- casionally splendid views of the sea, whose immense expanse was unbroken by a vessel of any kind. Turn- ing down a steep ravine towards the south-east, we came to a few huts, and continuing our course at last saw before us the Delta of the Xanthus ; Patara being at one angle, and this place occupying the other toward the sea. Uslann has but three sheds, and serves as the port, or scala, for shipping fire-wood and salt-fish to Rhodes. Two Greeks carry on this trade, and are the whole population. A village, consisting of a few huts, lies about a mile inland from this place, which is pro- bably another mile from the sea-coast. We were sup- pUed here with eight fowls for fifteen piastres, scarcely five-pence each ; but this is not so cheap in proportion as the produce of the interior towards the south. The prices of our provisions I find are higher than they were two years ago. We were attracted hither by the report of the ex- istence of ruins in this quarter, and also by the ad- mirable chart of Captain Beaufort, who lays them down 160 LYCIA. as ruins not yet visited. Colonel Leake had also di- rected me hither as the probable site of the ancient Cydna, or Pydna, but of this discovery I am not sa- tisfied. About a mile distant, near to the sea, we found a rocky hill, fortified with a beautifully built Cyclopean wall, with towers and loop-holes, and showing a fine specimen of an ancient Greek fortification: the walls had a terrace for the passage of a guard within the battlements, and this course passed by doors through the towers ; and as the wall rose up the steep side of the hill, the terrace was formed of a flight of steps ; several of the towers had only been breastwork, having but three walls, the inner side being left open. This place does not appear to me ever to have been a city, for the walls contain but one building, and this at the lower corner. No loose stones, or cuttings of the bare rocky ground for foundations, show that any other buildings ever existed. What this one structure has DELTA OF THE XANTHUS. 161 been, must remain a mystery; its form, painted walls and arched domes are precisely the same as those of the ruin I have described at Sidyma. Within this build- ing lay a broken pedestal, with this inscription : occ AtONI €YXH MAYCW AOYAAA BAPXOY * In turning over the stone we killed a scorpion, which lay concealed beneath it. On the outside of the wall were the remains of a small ruined building, again of the same construction, but still less perfect^ it had its three chambers, with dome tops and painted walls. Only two tombs were to be found in the neighbourhood, and they were near the outside of the south gate. The following inscription was upon a stone which had been over the doorway of one of them, and I think may assist to strengthen my opinion that this place was a strong- hold or fort of the Xanthians, and that the soldiers of * Translation. — " To Poseidon ; the vow of Mausolus, the Ala- barches." The name of Mausolus was hereditary in a family that gave to Caria several kings, or rather satraps, to one of whom his queen Artemisia constructed the celebrated tomb. The office of Alabarches, mentioned in several other inscriptions, and noticed by Josephus and other an- cient authors, especially at Alexandria, seems, according to the most approved etymology, to have corresponded to that of a Commissioner of Customs. M 162 LYCIA. XANTHUS. 163 the fort may have lived in tents or buildings of perish- able materials, no trace of which are left within the walls. Three lines of this inscription are cut upon the ornamental moulding, and have apparently been added at a subsequent period. There are no signs of other tombs, and no theatre or public buildings. Close to the scala and near to our tent, is an isolated rock, the whole of which is crowned with a well-built Greek wall, which appears to have been the basement of a temple or some single building ; its situation, rising out of the plain, is imposing. April \7th, Xanthus. — I am once more at my fa- vourite city — the first in which I became acquainted with the remains of art of the ancient Lycians, and in which I hope to find still more, embodying their lan- guage, history, and poetic sculpture. How might the classic enthiisiast revel in the charms of this city am its neighbourhood ! With Mount Cragus before him, h might conjure up all the chimaeras of its fabulous history. This morning, on leaving Uslann, which is very nearly the Turkish name for the Lion, we crossed the little river which rises suddenly from the rocks within two miles of the sea, but meanders in a brilliantly clear stream for at least three miles before it reaches the beach ; it is navigable for small boats to the scala. Continuing across the plain for four rniles, with drifted sand-banks on our right, we came near to what is not improperly called the Island, being a rocky hill rising amidst the perfectly level plain. Oh the larger portion M 2 164 LYCIA. of this hill there are no ruins of ancient buildings to be found, but some are visible on the summit of the smaller. We were unable to cross the swamp by which it is sur- rounded at this season, in order to examine them ; but an intelligent old Greek, who was our guide, said that the stones were only the lower part of a building, which was round, but not a theatre, for it had no seats. No columns were to be seen there, nor any other remains of a city : neither tombs nor walls were upon the hill. Possibly this may have been the Letoum and temple of Apollo, which Colonel Leake expected would there be found ; the easy transport of columns by sea would fuUy account for their absence. In half an hour more we crossed the livid waters of the Xanthus, which there divided into two streams, but both were too deep for us to pass with comfort. The horses were several inches above their girths in the water, and the baggage was partly bathed. Three men stripped^ and guided us across the rapid streams. Another hour brought us here, where we intend to halt for several days, to ex- amine further , into the remains of this chief of the Lycian cities, and to make accurate drawings of its interesting sculpture. April 2\st. — This is my fourth day among the ruins of Xanthus, and how little do I know of this ancient city ! its date still puzzles me. It certainly possesses some of the earliest Archaic sculpture in Asia Minor, and this connected with the most beautiful of its monu- ments, and illustrated by the language of Lycia. These XANTHUS. 165 sculptures to which I refer must be the work of the sixth or seventh centuries before the Christian sera, but I have not seen an instance of these remains having been despoiled for the rebuilding of walls ; and yet the decidedly more modern works of a later people are, used as materials in repairing the walls around the back of the city and upon the Acropolis ; many of these have Greek inscriptions, with names common among the Romans. The whole of the sculpture is Greek, fine, bold, and simple, bespeaking an early age of that people. No sign whatever is seen of the works of the Byzantines or Christians. To lay down a plan of the town is impossible, the whole being concealed by trees ; but walls of the finest kind, Cyclopean blended with the Greek, as well as the beautifully squared stones of a lighter kind, are seen in every direction ; several gateways also, with their paved roads, still exist. I observed on my first visit that the temples have been very numerous, an(i, from their position along the brow of the cliff, must have combined with nature to form one of the most beau- tiful of cities. The extent I now find is much greater than I had imagined, and its tombs extend over miles of country I had not before seen. The beautiful gothic-formed sarcophagus-tomb, with chariots and horses upon its roof, of which I gave several views in my former Journal, as well as a sketch of a battle-scene upon the side, accompanied with .a Lycian inscription, is again a chief object of my admi- 166 LYCIA. ration amidst the ruins of this city. : Of the ends of this monument I did not before show drawings, but gave a full description. I have now succeeded in copy- ing the inscription which I mentioned as being illegible, to which I add views of the ends, and, by the aid of Mr. Scharf, am able to do more justice to these fine works of the ancients. Beneath the rocks, at the back of the city, is a sarco- phagus of the same kind, and almost as beautifully sculptured, but this has been thrown down, and the lid now lies half buried in the earth. Its hog's-mane is sculptured with a spirited battle-scene. Many Greek inscriptions upon pedestals are built into the walls, which may throw some light upon the history of the city; they are. mostly funereal, and be- long to an age and people quite distinct from those of the many fine Lycian remains., I copied the following : EANOIilNHnOAIZ HTOYAYKIHN EGNOYZ MHTPOnOAIZOYA niANIAANrENOME NHNPYNAIKATOY KPATIZTOYAYPHAIOY AAPIXOY* * Translation. — " The city of Xanthus, the metropolis of the' Lycian k A> , . ^ > ?r ^ ■^-^'-'-' X' ^ 1_ LlJ -C^ H UIq. ^ ^ ■ Irl -J* ICMENAEKTWNIAI WNANECTHCA* The following inscription is interesting from the in- sight which it gives as to the regulation of the games. KONTON AnOAAXlN lOY AIZ.TOYEOAJAZOYEAN oiONnATPOZKAinporo NilNBOYAEYrnNAmNI nation, ^honoured^ Ulpia Phila, who had become the wife of the excel- lent Aurelius Larichus." The honorary name of Metropolis, i. e. mother-city, whence colonies have sprung, was often assumed hj Greek cities of very little import- ance ; Xanthus, however, seems fuUy to have been entitled to it, stand- ing prominent in whatever we know of Lycian history, and being called by Strabo (1. xiv. p. 666) the greatest city of Lycia. * Translation. — " Having been of the god Xanthus and gym- nasiarches of the most worshipful Gerusia, and discharged also several other public offices in my native city, I have, according to the decree, erected the statue at my own expense." The god Xanthus, mentioned in this inscription only, is probably the deified personification of the river Xanthus, which is intimately con- nected with the celebrated worship of Apollo in Lycia. 168 LYCIA. ZAM ENON AN APilN H AAH N ENTilEniTEAEZeENTIArn N I0EM I AOZrEKAl A0H KHZ Tl BKAKAZI ANOYArH n n A NEIKHZANTAKAIEKBIBAZAN TAKAHPOYZAArilNOeE TOYNTOZTHZ0EM lAOZAI A BIOYTOYAEIOAOmTATOY IAOnATPIAOZAYKIAPXOY Tl BKATH AEM AXOYEAN OinNHTOYAYKIilNEeNO MHTPOnOAIZKAenZOAl A0EMENOZAIEZTEIAATO * Two of my days have been spent in the tedious, but, I trust, useful occupation, of copying the Lycian * Translation. — " Quintus, the son of ApoUonius, grandson of Sos- tratus [?], a citizen of Xanthus, his father and ancestors being coun- cilmen, having contested in the wreatling-match of the men in the games celebrated besides [those performed ordinarily at the public expense?] for the third prize [given] from the legacy of Tiberius Claudius Caesianus Agrippa, having won and outrun four lots ; this prize being for his lifetime in the gift of the most distinguished Ly- ciarches, the friend of his country, Tib. CI. Telemachus ; the city of Xanthus, the metropolis of the Lycian nation, [honours him, i. e. Quintus, probably by erecting a statue,] as he who left the legacy has ordered." This inscription, like that given at p. 108, may throw light on some particulars of the gymnastic festivals. Having no precedent, the translation is in some parts conjectural: The Lyciarches, according to Strabo (1. xiv. p. 60'5), was chosen by the delegates from the twenty- three Lycian cities ; whilst they were free, he presided over the manage- ment of political affairs, and in Roman times over the public games and festivals of the confederation. 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Juno gives them prudence, Minerva instructs them in the art of the loom, Diana confers on them tallness of person, and lastly Venus flies up to Jupiter to provide becoming husbands for them ; in the mean time, the orphans thus being left unprotected, the Har- pies come and ' snatch the unguarded charge away.' Strabo tells us that Pandarus was king of Lycia, and was worshiped particularly at Pinara. This tomb be- comes thus very interesting; which, if it be not the tomb of Pandarus, shows that the story was prevalent in Lycia, and that the great author of the Iliad derived it from that source." With this clue, we have no difficulty in recognizing Juno on the peculiar chair assigned to that goddess, and on the same side is Venus and her attendants ; upon another is probably represented Diana, recognized by the hound. The seated gods are less easily di- stinguished. In the Harpies, at the four corners of the tomb, we have the illustration of those beings as de- scribed by the classic writers. Every excursion we have made has added tales of fresh discoveries of pieces of sculpture, many of which I have had sketched. They are of a pure Greek date, and the subjects may be of interest to the mythologist Drawn Be Etched by G.SoharP Junr FKAGMENTS at XAMTIHiyS. John Murray, LondcT fC'^J . XANTHUS. 173 and student of the Greek games; were it possible to remove the trees and bushes, the examiniation of the piles of ruins "would afford occupation for many weeks. In my previous Journal I mentioned that" various pieces of sculpture of early date are built into the walls of the Acropohs : of these I now give drawings, which may assist, from the subject and style of art, to afford in- formation about this interesting place. The construc- tion of the chariots and the costume of the figures are of an early age : I also observe a marked peculiarity in the arrangement of the forelocks of the horses*. The ani- mals have also their interest ; some strongly resemble the subjects often seen upon antique gems. The lion * On examining the various works of the ancient Greeks in the British Museum, I find no instance either in the horses of the Greek marbles, or on the numerous Etruscan vases, of the forelock being tied in this peculiar form; but in the bas-reliefs from Persepolis, I find each horse has its hair exactly so arranged, as will be seen in this sketch .from one of them. The whip of the driver of the chariot, as well as his costume, is also the same as in the Xanthian specimen. 174 LYCIA. and the bull are always prominent objects in Lycian sculpture. I have been surprised at not obtaining any coins from the peasants, for they cultivate every bare spot amidst the ruins, and the whole surrounding district is under the plough ; but the few people we have seen say they very rarely find any. The peasantry here are far more industrious than in most districts I have visited ; at this season every field has its yoke of oxen at work, tilUng the ground in the same manner as in the time of the earlv inhabitants, and the, tents of the husband- men are being pitched where the swamps have suffici- ently dried ; this tillage is for the later crops of maize, the barley being now in ear, and the wheat nearly full grown. The beans and vetches are in bloom. The industry and independence of the peaisantry here has caused us much trouble to obtain our requisite supplies. We have had -to send several miles before we XANTHUS. 175 could persuade the shepherds at this season to part with their sheep ; at last a lad has brought us one, for which we have to make him a present, in addition to the price of the sheep. The water for our use is also brought from the river, which is half a mile from our tent, and is of a colour that would forbid its being used for drinking, were it possible to obtain better. 176 LYCIA. In the theatre, which I mentioned in my former Journal, I have sketched a marble chair, probably a place of honour for some distinguished patron of the games of the ancients. The seats of the people in most of the Greek theatres were so formed as to throw off the rain-water, and at the same time in some degree to prevent the inconve- nience from the feet of the spectators seated above. Upon a portion of a frieze shown in Plate XXII. wUl be seen a curious and interesting similarity to the various sketches of the present costume, utensils, and habits of the peasants already given in this Journal. The thick tail of the sheep also shows the unchanged breed of the cattle. The tomb, three sides of which are represented in the same Plate, must rank among the I- [UJl S / r \.// ^ '1 \ ^ 3-^ Drawn & Etchod by C Scharf iJunT IFRA€MEIFJTS ®ir SCULPTUKE at XARITHUS. John Murray, London, IS'"" XANTHUS. 177 most ancient in its style of sculpture of any in this city, and is strikingly similar to the works of the Persepo- litans. In Plate XVIIl., the striped clothes of what are probably the attendants on some Bacchanalian pro- cession, are seen in the boy with his torch, at our en- campment near DoUomon ; the striped cotton dress is very general in this district of Asia Minor. We cannot have every enjoyment at the same time : to enjoy light we must have shadow. When travelling before in this country, I was amused and instructed by the curiosity and proffered hospitality of the people j bttt they intruded far too much upon my privacy, and I often wished them away, that I might be alone. In travelling with a Cavass or Tartar, the case is altered. I cannot say upon the whole that I prefer it, always en- joying the attention and kindness natural to humanity, rather than the respect commanded by authority, and I fear I am represented as a very diflferent character with regard to my feelings towards the people, to what I really am. They wish to offer flowers and presents of all kinds, but the Cavass perhaps properly keeps them aloof, and when anything is purchased by me, they name no price, but expect a present : this the Cavass discoun- tenances, and fixes a price upon everything, probably lower than I should be induced to give. He demands hospitality where I before received it voluntarily, and our room is always kept free from the people. I fancy that the peasants here keep more aloof than usual, from a display of authority on our arrival, which N 178 . LYCIA, I much disapproved, but it is, I fear, too common with travellers. The first Zoorigee told some men to move from the path on which they were lying, to let our cavalcade pass, instead of our turning a few steps out of the way. The men said there was plenty of room to pass, upon which the Cavass galloped up to themj as if to trample them down with his horse, and struck them repeatedly upon the head in the most savage manner with his stick, and with these unresisted blows dispersed the party of peasants, who were basking a few hours of their Sunday (Friday) in their own fields, over which probably we were unlawful trespassers. Our train followed; but without the usual. welcome to the stranger. The gay clothes, arms, and the power en- joyed by these couriers bearing my fixman, is more feai-ed than I like, for I know that all the traveller can want ip freely afforded by the people. 179 CHAPTER VIII. Patara — Coins — Passage of Mountains — Discovery of the ancient Phellus — Antiphellus — its Tombs — Kastelorizo, the ancient Me- giste — Jewels and Costume of the Peasantry — Cassabar — Ancient Trabala ? — Singular' gorge in the Mountains — Myra — Tombs — Sculptures — Difficult Passage of Mountain — Ancient Isium ? — Li- myra — Ruins, Tombs, and Sculptures. April 2] St. — This morning we rode down the plain tp Patara, which place I have before visited. I again sought the points of the greatest interest — its very per- fect theatre, the arched entrance to the city,- and clus- ters of palm-trees ; and, owing to the dryer state of the swamp, I was enabled to visit a beautiful small temple about the centre of the ruined city : its doorway, within a portico in antis, is in high preservation, as well as its walls ; the doorway is of beautiful Greek workmanship, ornamented in the Corinthian style, and in fine pro- portion and scale ; the height is about twenty-four feet. I have sought in vain among the numerous funeral in- scriptions for any trace of Lycian characters. I copied the inscription in the Greek language from the wall o# N 2 180 LYCIA. the theatre, which is cut in large well-formed letters, over the eastern entrance of the proscenium*. In a wood to the east of the city is a solitary instance of a Lycian architectural tomb cut in the rock in the Elizabethan form ; but upon the panel of the door are three ill-cut figures, representing a man, his wife, and a child ; they are but a few inches high, and have under them the following Greek inscription : eytyxiuntw XIAIKAIK TEKNI2EnA<>PO AM AETXIMNEIA n ZENEKEN t Upon one of the side mullions are two open hands, with a few Greek letters beneath them. I have seen this device before, but do not think it of a very early age. The following I copied from a pedestal : MMM/ KA^ANeiXinOAEITEYZAME NIlAEKAENTAIZKATAAYKrAN nOAEZmAZAIZTHNOZTOeH KHNIAZXlNANTirONOX n ATAPEYZAAAIIAEMH EZEZ TOTEGHNAfEANAETIZTINAeH O0EI AETIll EPAZAnOAAilN I * This will be found in the Appendix. t Dransiation. — " Eutychion to bis child Epaphroditus, for the sake of r^nembrance " PATARA. 181 APAXM AZCTHin PASEXIZKAI H POZAN FE ArAZOYZHZnANTITHBOYAO MENQEniTilMMIZEI * The number of coins and common gems of rude cutting that are found here is quite unaccountable. I obtained above thirty coins from a man who said he often brought home a hundred in a day when he was plough- ing, and that, if I liked, he would go and find some. One of our men picked up two in crossing a field as he drove in the horses ; they appear to be of all dates, but I hope some may be curious, having the Lycian charac- ters upon them. I am delighted to recognize again in one the figure of Bellerophon, similar to the bas-relief in the tomb at Tlos : this is highly interesting, as being found in the valley of the Xanthus. The copper coins of early date found in Lycia are generally extremely small i the Roman and Byzantine are much larger, and consequently more easily seen in the fields. I have obtained several very curious coins, found in the val- ley of the Xanthus, all having a singular device, a tri- quetra intermixed with the Lycian characters ; on the reverse is generally a lion, in various attitudes: the * Translation " the son of Plato, a Patarean and Xanthian, but having also [?] the rights of citizen in all the cities of Lycia. The cinerary urn, Jason, the son of Antigonus, of Patara, [has pro- vided] . But to another it shall not be permitted to' bliry anybbdy else ; but if aiuy one bury another, he shall owe two hundred [?] drachmse, tti be consecrated to Apollo ; the levying of the fine and the information belongs to any one who chooses, for half the sum." 182 LYCIA. finest silver ones have the' skin of a lion's head- only. These coins, although not obtained from Xanthus it- self, I am inclined to believe were of that chief city, or perhaps of the country generally at a very early period. I have the coins of most of the other cities, bearing the' name of Lycia and the emblems of Apollo, the lyre, or bow and quiver, together with the initials of the par- ticular city to which they respectively belqhg: their re- verse, has a beautiful head of the god. Before leaving the valley of the Xanthus, I must re- fer to the remaining marked illustrations of its early legends. History tells us that this country was ori- ginally peopled from Crete, by a colony which settled here under Sarpedoh the son of Europa. Lycus, being, afterwards driven from Athens, joined Sarpedon, and from him this portion of the country was called Lycia.- The customs of the mother- country are said to have been retained by the colonists. Ifind in the coins of Crete alone a parallel in size and. workmanship to those of Lycia : on seeing coins from Candia, I at first sight claimed them as Lycian. The bull's, horns are found as the crest of the ancient inhabitants, and the bull contending with lions is the most common subject of the bas-reliefs. May this not have reference to the family of Europa contending with the wild animals of this country ? The lion is seen everywhere through- out the valley of the Xanthus ; every bas-relief, tomb, seat or coin, shows the figure or limbs of this animal.. Lions still live in its mountains, the goat is found at the PATARA. 183 top, while the serpent infests the base of the Cragus; illustrating the imaginary monster of its early fables*. The name of Sarpedon is found upon the monuments, and the conquests of Bellerophon remain stamped upon the rocks and coins. Patara, whose name implies the seat of an oracle, stands at the entrance of a valley : the inscriptions and emblems here are all in honour of Apollo, and the coins of the whole district show his ascendency. I doubt not that many other points of high interest would occur to the classic scholar, but these must be observed by all travellers. April 22nd, Bazeeryiancooe. — This bay was by the an- cient Greeks called Phoenicus, probably from its palm- trees^by the modern Greeks Kalamaki, which means ' reed bay'; but from the precipitous and arid. rocks, rising from a sea far too deep even for anchorage, reeds never could have grown here. On the coast of Pa-' tara, which" is round the point to the westward, and is distinctly divided from this bay by a bold promontory, both reeds and palm-trees are fouiid in abundance. Travelling for nearly four hours through Fornas, and leaving the Scala or little village of Kalamaki below us in the bay, we kept our elevated route to Bazeeryianr * The vignette on the title-page is drawn from an ancient Greek terra-cotta, representing a chimaira. This extremely interesting relic is the property of Thomas Burgon, Esq., who has kindly allowed me to copy it as an illustration. "A lion she before in mane and throat. Behind a dragon, in the midst a goat." — Hesiod. 184 LYCIA. cooe, or merchants' village, which is situated upon a point of rock commanding a fine view, and is an excel- lent site from which tp make a map of this varied coast. The small islands of Xenagorje near the coast break the monotony of a boundless expanse of sea. The huts are here all built of stones, piled up. and lined with mud. The situation is so much exposed to the frequent eddies of wind from the mountains, that it would render the common hut, characteristic of the more sheltered coun- try, unsafe. April 24th. — From this village we continued our as- cent of the mountain for two hours through bold craggy ravines, until we arrived at the village of Kedekleh, which would have been a far better division of our journey than halting so soon as Bazeeryiancooe. Con- tinuing still occ^isional ascents, we traversed the pictu- resque heights of this mountain-range, cultivated with small patches of corn, which, as well as the whole vege- tation, was fully a month later than in the district we had left in the morning, and the country again assumed the appearance almost of winter. Arriving at the vil- lage of Saaret, where our horses required rest, we occu- pied an hour or two in ascending the mountain which forms the opposite or northern side of this narrow valley, appearing to divide the country from east to west. Our inducement foi: making this excursion was the number of tombs cut in its rocks, and the Cyclo- pean walls blended with its craggy top. We were not disappointed : a: city has once stood upon its summit, PHELLUS. 185 and waUs, galewa,ys and tombs all bespeak the work of the early Greeks ; this is borne out also by the form of the letters in the numerous Greek inscriptions, too much eflFaced by the exposed situation to be deciphered. I have no doubt that this was the ancient Phellus. In four more hours we had passed the high and wild range of mountains forming the southern coast at the back of the ancient Antiphellus : on its summit we encoun- tered a most violent hailstorm, and I never experi- enced more bitter cold in the depth of winter : large hailstones covered the ground some inches in depth. The awfully grand effect of these storms can scarcely be imagined : the cracking thunder was echoed instantly by the surrounding crags, and then rolled into distant ranges with almost a continuous murmur ; the light- ning played upon the clouds, which appeared to hover capriciously over fated islands in the expanse of ocean before us, while the sun shone brilliantly on others. The grandeur of such storms is seldom witnessed in the calmer climates of the continent of Europe. April 25th. — I have been now two days at Antiphel- lus, and have had more time to devote to the exami- nation of its remains than on my last rapid journey. The inscriptions upon the tombs are so much corroded by time and sea air that many of them are illegible. NEIKOAAOYTOY GEOAHPOY * * Translation. — " Of Nicolaus, the son of Theodorus." 186 LYCIA. One or two I admired for their simplicity, and from others gathered the name of the place. I find no bi- lingual inscriptions with the Lycian ; all are Greek that TOM N El HON KATEZKEYAZATOEITYXfl NPAriNTEYTHZTOYATOAOrXlTATOY MAPAYPHTOAEMAOYEAOONTOZAAN TI<^EAAEITOYEATIf2KAI FYN Al KIZYTOP EYnAOIIPAITEKNOIZAYTIlNAIOIZAN ZnZIlN En ITI E4'I2IZAEN YnnZO JION EN KH AEY0HZONTAITA0PEnTAPI APOY AAAI2AEI M EN EZEZTHEN I EAETZAITI NAZ-JJ#.APATAYTAnOIHZAZAMAPTOAOZ ^MMM EOIZKATAXOONOIZKAI IZOI CEI UMMT^\ I lOYTXll EPllTATnTAI ElOX A* OAEEAENEAZAHMS^TAITOTPITON * I have seen, excepting one upon the sarcophagus, which was so distinguished by its beauty of proportion and form, as well as situation, that I sketched it on my last * Translation. — "Eutychon, keeper of accounts [?], to the most distinguished Marcus Aurelius Ptolemseus, coining [to discharge an- nual functions?] for the fourth time [?], a citizen of Antiphelliis, has built the monument for himself and his wifeEupolis, and their children, and to -whomsoever he may in his lifetime give permission. But in the under compartment [?] there will be buried his [?] foster-children. To another it shall not be allowed to bury anybody [here] , since he ■who acts against this shaU be a criminal to the gods of hell, and shall pay as a fine into the most holy treasury one thousand five hundred denarii, of which he who proves [the trespass] shall receive one- third." oaooa o '0 o o o a o ^ © 00 3 1 o o o O O 3 O CO ^ ® <^ ' o a o o O- O a~- m S y ANTIPHELLUS. 187 journey. This stately monument has a long Lycian inscription; I was prevented copying the whole by the fractures in many of the deeply-cut letters, but have selected from it many perfect words, separated by the usual stops, and these may assist in restoring the knowledge of the language. I have put together upon the annexed Plate several designs which I have seen upon the ends of sarcophagi, and also some panelled doors, formed of stone; the imi- tated knocker is like many of ours of the present day. The sphinx represented throughout this country is the eastern, and not 'that seen in the Egyptian sculptures: The little theatre here is quite perfect, with the excep- tion of its proscenium, which has entirely disappeared : the seats are preserved, and clear to the bottom. The absence of shrubs, which usually obscure so much the interior of the theatres, has tended much to the pre- servation of this. Yesterday we went to the island of Kastelorizo, to lay in stores and to refit ourselves with supplies; the distance may be five or six miles from the shore. The town — for it really deserves the name^^consisfs proba- bly of six or eight hundred houses, all built upon one model, being formed like cubes, with two or three open square windows in the front of each, and a door at the back. These are built up the side of a steep rock, and, vieweiJ together, are more singular-looking than pic- turesque. An old castle of the middle ages crowns the rock, and gives a character to the city. " "';-« t^ 188 LYCIA. "^^^^ On landing in this island, the effect was that of visiting a new country : hundreds of Greeks were crowding ahout the little quay and coffee-houses ; wine was being retailed from the cask in the dirty narrow streets ; scarcely a dog was to be seen, and pigs sup- plied their place. We were told that there were five Turks only in the town, the whole population being Greek. A number of small vessels filled the harbour ; boats were building, houses rising rapidly, and the whole population seemed active and enterprising : it is quite delightful to see such an intelligent-looking assemblage of people, both male and female, in this busy scene ; but a host of pure and simple feelings pass from the mind, and are succeeded by caution and worldUness, which are seldom sufficient to compete with the cunning of the Greek, This is a metropolis of trade for the whole of the south-western coast : all provisions, and even coins and treasures of every kind discovered by the peasants, find MEGISTE. 189 a ready market here. I have obtained several coins, just brought from the valley of the Xanthus, and also saw some singular gems, but the devices were probably more illustrative of the whims of their former owners than of history. The island of Kastelorizo, which was the ancient Megiste, is perfectly barren of natural supplies ; even the water for the use of the town is collected in large tanks, about a mile up the mountain, whence it is car- ried by the women, who are continually passing and repassing in most classic groups, with pitchers slung over their shoulders. The jewelry of these people is particularly interesting, being precisely the same as that seen upon the statues of the ancients. I wished much to purchase a bracelet or armlet, but could not obtain any ; they are handed down as heir-looms, and, should an additional one be required, it is made ex- pressly from these models, but they are never kept for sale: by this mode the pattern is perpetuated, and I feel certain that we here see the models of the orna- ments of the ancient Greeks : several of these are often seen worn on the same arm, serving as the quartering in an heraldic shield, to register the families centered in the living heiress. The jewels, or rather gold or- naments, are often thus accumulated to a great value ; some of the people we saw with their savings'-bank, if I may use the expression, around their necks, in twenty or forty piastre-pieces of modem Turkish gold — some chains containing the current value of above a hundred 190 LYCIA. pounds. But the characteristic ornament of the pea-* santry of this island is a row of large fibulae or broaches, of chased silver, three inches in diameter, placed one below the other, from the throat to the waist, which is very low ; the rest of the drpss is, as I have before de- scribed, purely classic in all its forms. Leaving the path which leads to the fountains-^ we ascended the heights above the town, to seek the ruins of the city of the early inhabitants of Megiste: some fine Cyclopean walls scattered about the top point out the site, but no further remains are to' be traced. . A brisk gale carried us back in less than an hour to our abode at Antiphellus, or, as the little Scala is now called by the Turks, Andiffelo. It coiisists of only three or four houses and a custom-house : the building in which we have taken up our abode is iappointed for the use of strangers, and stands out on a rock into the sea ANTIPHELLUS. 191 like a bathing-machine. In our room we are here sup- plied with, or rather we have found, a mat spread over the floor: this has its disadvantages in a warm climate, for as I reclined upon my mattress, I saw creeping from behind my head up the wall a large scorpion; I had scarcely time to examine its lobster-like appearance before my servant killed it in great haste, wishing, for some superstitious reason, to put it into the fire ; its body was about five inches long, the tail and the claws about three, appearing thick and large, for its body. Having landed our provisions, and killed a sheep, we were again prepared for a return into the mountains, towards the east, in search of other Lycian cities hi- therto unvisited by Europeans. April 26th, Cassabar. — This place is situated in a large valley, extensively cultivated and watered by a consi- derable river, formed by three united streams from the south-west, west, and north. The town, or rather large scattered village, is at the south-western end, and has a: walled konak, which has probably been the strong-hold of some Derebbe, a bazaar, and a minaretted mosque, the only one I have seen in Lycia. The surrounding soil is deep, rich, and generally arable. On leaving Antiphellus we ascended the steep moun- tain-chain towards the north-east for about seven miles, when we came to the little village of Awalah, with its small cultivated plain. Traversing this, we saw af its southern extremity a sarcophagus' and the remains of walls upon the rock above, but of so trifling an extent 192 LYCIA. that we did not leave our track to examine them. In another hour we gained the summit of this elevated chain of mountains, leaving behind us one of, perhaps, the most beautifully varied coasts in the world. Before us lay a deep ravine, in the chain of richly-wooded mountains, carrying the eye ddwn to this extensive valley, with its winding streams ; the whole was bound- ed by ranges of snowy mountains, while others peered above them, forming the eastern coast of Lycia, extend- ing from Mount Phcsnix in the south to Mount Climax in the north. The hills within the valley, and through which we de- scended, are of limestone, in thin layers, distorted into most fantastic forms by volcanic heavings ; the strata are often shivered into regular squares, some appearing like paving-tiles, and others as small as the pavements of Roman mosaic. This crumbling material is being washed down into the valleys, cutting the hills into deep ravines, which continually crossed the path as we de- scended their sides. The weather is at this season ex- tremely changeable : we have had storms almost daily ; and today, the Easter Sunday of the Greeks, the rain has not yet ceased, and noon is past. On my former travels, during the same season, I was scarcely detained a single day by the bad weather. I hear that it was as remarkably dry as this is a rainy season. April 27th. — We are now at Myra, the ancient name perpetuated by the Greeks, but called by the Turks Dembre. Yesterday the rain came down in torrents MYRA. 193 incessantly, and we remained busily employed in sketch- ing and writing in our littlri hut, which was scarcely proof against the heavy rain. The night was fair, and as the waters in this region rapidly subside, we started at ten o'clock in the morning for this place, a distance of seven hours, about twenty-five miles. For the first eight miles we traversed the valley of Cassabar; after crossing three tributary streams from the north, we arrived at a village, where another small river met us from the east. I saw the course of this with surprise, thinking it the stream which we ha4 followed on our right ; but the latter had suddenly disappeared, and this new one entered with us a narrow cleft in the rocks to the south : the road and river to- gether did not occupy ten yards of space between the perpendicular rocks, whose sides were here excavated with Lycian tombs. On our right was a rocky moun- tain, crowned with a towered wall of early Greek con- struction. This fortified mountain was singularly iso- lated ; it arose almost perpendicularly from our valley, with the rest of the range, and I have said that on the east side it was cut through by a river and oar road. On the west, the great river of our valley had disap- peared into a still narrower chasm, about a quarter of a mile before we came to this mountain. These streams meet in a deep ravine, half a mile southward, making the rock of this city almost an island. These ruins, from their position, may probably be the site of the city of Trabala. 194 LYCIA. It is common for people to extol the objects of pre- sent excitement above any they have ever seen, but, as I rode for five hours through a pass of the mountains, calling to recollection the scenery of Britain, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and Greece, I must say that I have never before met with any of this description so mag- nificently beautiful and so lengthened. It is a gorge unaccountably formed through a range of mountains many thousand feet in height, and so narrow that the river alone occupies the ravine. Our track was down its bed, and we crossed and recrossed its waters, as they rushed from side to side, above thirty times: the stream was generally about four feet deep. This narrow valley, generally bearings to the south- east, wound about continually, leaving us for the first ten miles apparently locked in by the grandest cliffs of limestone, every ledge nurturing a tree : the extent of our view never exceeded half a mile. The valley then slightly widened, allowing a few luxuriant trees to grow upon the banks of the river: and the goatherd's pipe and the bleating of his flock broke the monotonous grandeur of the sound of rushing waters, which was echoed by the cliffs on either side. For another hour the valley continued narrow, but the cliffs fell back into more wooded mountains, and in an hour more our road suddenly opened upon the plain of Myra : the river, after running four or five miles through these well-cul- tivated districts, finds its course to the sea. The fatigue of excitement, from the beauty and sin- MYRA. 195 gularity of the scenery, made me rejoice at reaching this ancient city; and the hodily fatigue to the baggage- horses, of wading so often through the rapid water, scarcely left them strength to reach the end of the journey. A few miles before we arrived at the termi- nation of the ravine, several remains of Greek-built towers rose from amidst the trees, on the points of rocks, apparently inaccessible ; and at the opening of the ravine commenced the cutting of an aqueduct in the face of the perpendicular cliff, which we traced on our right hand to the ancient city. In following its now broken course, numbers of highly ornamented tombs caught my eye, and promised full occupation for a day or two's sojourn amongst them. o2 196 CHAPTER IX. Ruins of Myra — Tombs — Coloured Bas-reliefs — Ruins — Passage of Mountain to Phineka — Ancient Isium? — Limyra — Sculptures and Inscription — Ancient Bridge — Gagse — Excursion by the Promon- tarium Sacrum to Olympus — A deserted Village — ^Valley of the Arycandus — Tombs — Ruins — ^Discovery of Arycanda — its Ruins. April 2Sth. — Myra was among the most important of the Lycian cities, and its ruins appear to be Uttle in- jured by age. The city must have extended far over the plains, in front of the rock, which has now the theatre at its foot, and a multitude of beautiful tombs cut in its cUff ; I say this, judging from the very rea- sonable arguments advanced by Mr. Cockerell, that the size of the theatre is a good indication of the popu- lation of a city. The theatre at Myra is among the largest and the best built in Asia Minor : much of its fine corridor and corniced proscenium remains ; the upper seats have disappeared, but the present crop of wheat occupies little more than the area ; probably about six feet of earth may have accumulated upon its surface. As an argument against the former great size of the city, I should bring the proportionate small £ 1= m i I so 3 U > 5 MYRA. 197 number of tombs now existing in the rocks ; although, as at Telmessus, many of the inhabitants may have been entombed in sarcophagi on the plain, which have perhaps disappeared; certainly the tombs that remain could not have contained a single generation of the people. The tombs are . generally very large, and all appear to have been for families; some having small chambers, one leading to the other, and some highly interesting from their interior peculiarities of arrange- ment. The external ornaments are here enriched by sculptured statues in the rocks around, and these in the chaste style of the Lycians, whose language, with one exception, is universal in the inscriptions here ; but the tombs are mostly without any inscription whatever. The annexed Plate shows a pediment over the entrance to a handsome Ionic tomb cut in the rock ; the orna- ments below it are within the portico, and are repeated on each side of the door of the tomb, over which is the small bas-relief. The pilaster, surmounted by a lion's head, has a singular effect, and the ornaments retain the marks of having been tinted with various colours. The base of this pilaster is also drawn upon the same Plate. Within the porticos of several of the tombs (for many of these, like those at Tlos and Pinara, have a lobby or porch) are bas-reliefs in better preservation than those in other cities. Some of these have addi- tional interest from retaining the colours with which they were painted, and removing another of the few dpubts I still entertain of these people having been con- nected with the ancient inhabitants of Etruria. The cus- 198 LYCIA. torn of colouring their statues, as well as the mode of doing it, and the similarity of the action of the figures, will strike every one. The letters of the inscription were painted alternately blue and red. I must trust to my sketches to represent the sculpture upon the tombsj which is of the finest age for ease, simplicity, and beauty of proportion. The drawing shows a double- fronted Elizabethan tomb, cut in the rock, on the side of the town towards the river ; the sculpture is here near to the eye, and does not suffer by a close exami- nation. On the north side of the tomb is sculptured on the rock this fine commanding figure, and in the Ik^cmnlay UaA.^relIcrwg;Esii I'tylHAviifiXLtk^^trtk^' iweei ROCK TOMB SLt M.YRA . 3 Id 'm 3 "O^ * 'W? »-.«-.,!,g|»,--''*^^^'''*^r^^y*: < Pi o O O o H S o o 1^ MYRA. 199 Plate is shown the outer sculpture upon the south side. The bas-reliefs within the portico are represented in the coloured Plate, the tints of which are exactly those on almost every part of the marble. The youth near the female figure holds in his hand the strigil and oil- bottle, which were used in the gymnasium ; the naked boy is upon the muUion of the inner front, and the figure upon the couch faces the grouped subject : the sketches of the bas-reliefs must tell their history, for there are no inscriptions upon the tomb*. On the plains of Myra are scattered many ruins, but at great distances from each other ; and wherever the fine standing corn does not surround them, a swamp is the cause of the want of cultivation, and either of these prevents our close examination. One pile nearer to * The satisfaction which I derived on my return to Athens, in re- newing my acquaintance with the justly celebrated Professor Miiller, has made me the more aware of the immense loss which Europe has sustained by the death of one of her greatest scholars in all the vigour of life. I wish that I could remember the many valuable remarks he made upon the subject of my discoveries, in which he took a most lively interest. On seeing the coloured drawing of this tomb, he ex- pressed the following opinion as to the mode of colouring adopted by the Greeks in their works of art : — " The ancients painted their bas- reliefs : they only tinged their statues ; tinging the drapery, leaving the flesh part uncoloured ; the wounds and blood were stained, and the ear- rings and ornaments gilded. Their temples were left white, but parts of the frieze and architectural ornaments were coloured, but very minutely. Their temples of coarser materials were plastered, and entirely coloured. The Parthenon frieze was coloured, all the backgrounds of their bas- reliefs were painted." — This was his opinion at Athens, June 26th, 1840. 200 LYCIA. the sea is known, from inscriptions found, to have been a granary built in the time of Adrian. Another clump at a short distance from us is of the middle ages, and until lately boasted the possession of the bones of St. Nicholas ; but these have been transported to Russia, and a Greek priest alone remains within the holy walls, which were formerly the object of pilgrimages to the tomb of this favourite saint of the Greek church, whose birth-place is still holy ground at Patara. This saint appears to be. more venerated here than St. Paul, who visited Myra on his voyage to Rome*. The old priest tells us that he alone is left upon the plain after the middle of May, as every hut in this vil- lage and on the plain is then deserted for the moun- tains, on account of the heat and the appearance of an overwhelming number of mosquitos or gnats. A large black fly also appears at that season, which stings the cattle ; at its approach they are described running as if mad into the mountains. Another sketch represents a mass of tombs cut in the rock, near to the theatre ; one of these is pointed out by two small figures, and is again drawn upon the follow- ing Plate : the Turkish figure below may serve as a scale for the sculpture above, which is colossal. The following fragment in the Greek language I co- pied from a rock-tomb, above which were several lines illegible from the filtering of the waters over the rock : * Acts xxvii. 5. Drawn byCha' Fellows Esq^ Etched by O.Scharf Jun'' ^€U TO[iMl[BS WDTH K^SKELIiEir at Bl^Yll^A^ John Murray, London, 1841 MYRA. 201 TOYTOTOM 0NKATEZY EAPAAZA ABHITHIOr OYOTONnN NXINAEZ OZGYZIilN nOAIZGYEIK KNOIZAYTHZ TAMBPOIZKAIM PIEYETflTOYM OYAAAHZOnnA KAITATEKNAKAIO PAMBPOIAYTHZEAN AETIZBIATHTAIANOI lArrOMNHMEIONTOY TOnAPEYPEZEN TYMMHNETKHI KAPnONM UNEAHBOA KAIAMAP NOITOEIZ NKAIEIZTO YZ0EOYZ * * The greater part of this inscription, -which is funereal, is illegible, or left without connection. In the seventh and eighth lines are men- tioned sacrifices (or burials, see page 134,) made by the city. Then are enumerated (not named) the persons entitled to be buried in the tomb, viz. the children and sons-in-law of the proprietress. The last lines seem to have contained a curse against him who should attempt to open the tomb, similar to a curse with which the like offence is threatened by Demetrius Phalereus on a tomb-stone now to be seen at Oxford (see Chandler's Marm. Oxon. II. 60) : " The earth shall bear no fruit unto him, and he shall be an enemy to the gods." 202 LYCIA. The following was written within the door of a tomb : APZAZIOS THZMYNAOY * The peasants here are very attentive in keeping back their fierce dogs, and rendering any assistance in their power, but they are not antiquarians : they know no distinction between tombs, towers, and theatres, and cannot recognize in the statues the likeness of man. In reply to our inquiries after coins, the people told us that they had collected none, adding that these were the money of Ghiaours, which they would not touch ; they went however to inquire if the children had, in ignorance, picked up any, but I regret that the search was unsuccessful. The people say that many Franks have been to see the "old castles" here, but that there are more high up in the mountains to the north, now covered with snow^, about three hours' climbing from this place. The improbability of a city of importance having existed in a region where the snows remain so late in the season, and the inconvenience and delay of visiting probably merely some strong-hold of former times, made us resolve to proceed on our route towards Phineka, a distance of nine hours. The Greek priest says that we ought to remain here three years, to see all the ruins in this country. April 29th, Phineka. — This is a little village, about * Translation — " Of Arsasis the daughter of Myndus." MYRA. 203 two miles up a navigable river from the sea ; its name resembles that of the ancient appellation of this district — Phoenicus : the indigenous palm-trees reminded me of the origin of the name, unless perhaps the generic name of the plant may have had its derivation from this district. On leaving Myra this morning, we traversed the plain towards the east, and crossing the river, which was carrying down hundreds of sticks of timber, we ascended a wooded hill to the little village of Vourtar- pessa. From this . slight elevation we had a fine view of the whole plain, and could study its geography. In the vegetable world I have observed several -additions to my already numerous list of luxuriant trees and shrubs : these are the barbery, which is here a large tree, and now in bloom ; the castor-oil, the stems of which are as thick as a man's body, and are now in blossom, with formed fruit, and the seed of last year, all clustered beneath the large rich leaf; and the pistacia, called here by the Greeks the chickurea, which has a richer appearance than our dark ash, but not so much so as the carob, which is here the principal tree of the hills, aflFording a welcome shade at all seasons. At Myra, among the rocks, flourishes a beautiful kind of aloe; the flowers seldom exceed three or four feet in height, and two or three branches spring from its stem ; the colour is a rich yellow, and the leaf is like that of a small Ame- rican aloe*. I observed numerous varieties of the onion * Aloe vulgaris. 204 LYCIA. tribe, and added greatly to my collection of plants, but travelling is not favourable to their preservation. On leaving the plains of Myra, we had a fine view of the lake, or rather inlet from the sea, from which it is separated only by a low bank of sand ; at the eastern end it is connected with the sea by a channel, and this, being a favourable position for a fishery, is much valued by the Greeks, who have here an establishment for salting the fish. The waters on the coast of this country are generally so deep that fish is by no means plentiful, and is sought to advantage only at the mouth or in the shallows formed by the rivers. In and upon the swampy sides of this lake is said to have stood a city, and the little streams which occa- sionally run from the mountains on the east have been supposed to be the ancient Limyrus. Buildings are seen beneath the waters by the fishermen ; but the in- significance of the stream, and the low situation for a city, seem to me opposed to the idea of its having been a Greek site. On the hill to the north, about a mile from the lake, we passed a castle or building con- sisting of two square towers, walled round, all of an- cient Greek and good masonry ; . but we observed no other indication of a former people. From our road for the next six hours I warn other- travellers who attempt to transport their baggage. It is totally unfit for horses, more from the extreme la- bour of the rapid and unceasing ascent, than from the craggy or dangerous road. For three hours we did not ISIUM. 205 find a level large enough for a horse to stand upon, and at the end of that time we were among numerous sarcophagi upon the ridge of a mountain about five thousand feet above the undisturbed blue mirror of the sea at its base. Above these tombs was a walled city, accessible only from this northern ridge on which we stood ; for it crowned the end of a fine range of moun- tains, whose summit of snow we now traced, and whose base we had traversed from the north-west towards Cassabar. This was probably the ancient Isium. What a wonderful people the ancient Greeks were ! This mountain country was literally strewed with cities and stately towers, which stand uninjured and un- occupied, two thousand years after their builders are removed ! Descending from this elevation, we again crossed a lower chain of mountains towards the east, and then rapidly descended to the plain of Phineka. "We passed several Greek-built towers, each command- ing splendid and extensive views down their several ravines. Near the sea the palm-trees grow as shrubs, and seem indigenous to this part. April ZOth. — To give the horses rest after the fatigue and strain of yesterday, we have this morning walked to examftie the remains of the ancient Limyra. Had we been able to cross the portion of the valley opposite — due east of this place — the distance could not have exceeded three miles; but to avoid the swamp, and the tortuous and deep clear streams of various rivers, we had to skirt the plains for more than six miles*. We 206 LYCIA. passed the scattered village of Demergeecooe, inhabited chiefly by Chinganees, who are employed in rearing cattle : we had to send for them to this village to shoe our horses. These gipsies are generally a people pos- sessing considerable property in stock, and are probably induced to form here a larger colony than usual by the extreme luxuriance of the climate : their huts are almost buried amid fruit-trees. Near this village we crossed most of the streams by bridges, or, when sufficiently shallow, we forded them, and in half an hour reached the ruins of the ancient city of Limyra. A fine ' stately sarcophagus was the first indication of our approach, and this monument I found to be of high interest, from having upon its front, by the side of the door (which has had a portico) , a bilin- gual inscription, Lycian and Greek. I think this is the one copied by Mr. Cockerell, and published in Walpole's Travels ; but I have taken a faithful copy, and hope that it may prove a different one, affording additional assistance in deciphering the language. Hundreds of tombs cut in the rocks, and quite excavating the long ribs of its protruding strata, as they curved down the sides of the mountain, soon came in view, and their ex- amination occupied some hours. The inscriptions were almost all Lycian, — some few Greek, but these were' al- ways inferior in execution, some being merely scratched upon the surface, while the Lycian were cut deeply in the stone, and many richly coloured ; the letters being alter- nately red and blue, or in others green, yellow, or red. (= 69 c^^..^.^ ,^' / .'. '^ vCa^^^'^^^^~y^''^ ' ' .:'' '-' '^ rx^X I > <- ^-~.\^yj J ^-/s^' — w ^ > (^^^*'^ ^^^0^-""^^='^^^ N. ^jj^-->f ^\ \ <- ^ _ 'J^V^FS) .- A - <- ^ ■■ U ^ ^C^_^p^^cO <1 < ^ ^^V"^^t \^^^^^U^ UJ 7? V h^^^^^^^^^ <-:t ^ \^ >s^ ^0 ^ &- "V 4^ A <-. A A <- >< :^ •■ fl. HH <- 1- < ^ A. ^'^ 'S_^^ 1,^ ^- u -, f 1x1 - - ^ <_ >> Si ^ < iV^^^^^^^ 1- ^ 1- h j^^^^^ ^^Zy'^^^^''^^^ ) /^k;fycf^^^^i-\ [J UJ ^ "^ /Jl/^^^'^^^^^ ^^i^^^^ j) "^ < M /^ ^^^^ \y''"^ y^J> < .. 4. f \ ^) y' y <- ^ LI_ r^?k h==''^^^^ij^ iL ^1- .. Sm^^aS^^^ s^ H, °- LlI L ''/fX""^ ' W z^^ L--'^^^^^^^"--^^ [UJ] LIMYRA. 207 I have copied the two following Greek inscriptions from the rock-tombs ; those in the Lycian language will be found in Plate XXXVI. TOYTONTONTA«|)ONKATEZKEYA^^TOEPHAZAZ EAVTHIKAITHirYNAIKIAYTOYZE^^IKAITni POPM ATIZAPM AAAP I M lOZKAIZEMOl AAEM ATH PA AEAHIAYTHZZENOKPITOYEINAIAEK PIONIOPM MATIN KAITOYZEFEIZTGrENOYZ f Connected with some of these inscribed tombs were beautiful bas-reliefs, mythological decorations, and bat- tle-scenes — all illustrating the history of the earliest times, perhaps the^ age of Homer. Some retain their colours, others scarcely their form, as the weather, from their several. aspects, has affected them. A spi- rited battle^scene, shown in the annexed Plate, had va- rious Lycian names written beneath each grqup, which may serve to illustrate and give increased interest to one another. Beyond these tombs lay the city, marked by many foundations, and by a long-wall with towers. Further * Translation. ~-" Hermeias [?] has builtthis tomb for himself and his wife and his family." t This seems to be a- funereal inscription in memory of ''a woman, Gormatis [.''], her sister Semiramis, the wife [?] of-Xenocritus, and their family." 208 LYCIA. on is a very pretty theatre, in front of which winds a river, which suddenly appears in the neighbourhood. Beyond this, stood another fine sarcophagus, sculptured with beautiful bas-reliefs, but in a very mutilated state. '^^ 69 hi 3 3 3 LIMYRA. 209 This attracted our attention to many more tombs cut in the rocks, in various styles of architecture ; some, of the Ionic order, are in high preservation. At the en- trance of one of the rock-tombs were sculptured two fine figures, probably mythological, which are shown in the annexed Plate. The tombs here are far. more nu- merous than at Myra, but the size of the theatre be- speaks a smaller population. May \st. — ^Another month has commenced, and how little do I know of Lycia ! I shall be obliged to leave much gleaning in this district alone, and still more is undiscovered in Pamphylia : but the province of Lycia, which has never been corrupted by the Roman or Chris- tian styles, and retains the simple beauty of the early Greek, has for me the greatest attractions. This morning we left Phineka for this village, called Haggevalleh. The distance is five hours, reckoning by time, for we have had again to skirt the plain and re- pass Limyra. Continuing at the foot of the mountain for two miles beyond that city, we found, quite sepa- rated from it, a large collection of ornamented tombs in the rocks, but no walls or indications of another city ; these therefore must probably be added to the cemeteries of Limyra. The inscriptions, with a single exception, were all Lycian, and this had Greek letters over one panel, and over the other an Eastern charac- ter unknown to me, much resembling the letters upon the coins of Phoenicia*. Still skirting the plains, we * This Phoenician inscription is given in Plate XXXVI. No. 1. P 210 LYCIA. soon arrived at an ancient Greek bridge, over a very wide but shallow river, having twenty-five arches, all beautifully formed with large tiles. The top of the bridge is quite flat, and paved with the original Greek squared stones, which are of immense size : it is about twelve feet wide, and does not appear to have had any parapets. Near the foot of this bridge is the village of Armootlee, with a substantially-built mosque and towers, apparently of the middle ages, now forming the ruined establishment of the Aga. Another small village near is called Hascooe. What would be the produce of this plain of Phineka under the management of an active and industrious people ! The extreme luxuriance of the soil can alone account for the multitude of cities of the ancient in- habitants, who, if I remember rightly, looked for little produce from foreign nations, and themselves supplied armies larger than ever assembled from other parts of the earth ; this mountainous district of Lycia was not wanting in her musters at Troy and Marathon : " The warlike bands that distant Lycia yields. Where gulphy Xanthus foams along the fields *." The ruins of this village, I fancy, must be those of Gagse. They stand upon, and between, two isolated rocks, now literally covered with walls. Under these hills runs a considerable river from the north-east, over which are the remains of an aqueduct that formerly brought water from the opposite mountain for the use * Iliad, book 2. GAG^. 211 of the city. A small theatre also remains, in good preservation. Inscriptions there are none, and, what is more singular, we could only discover one tomb in the rocks. I account for this from the nature of the stone, which is here, as in many similar mounds in the immediate neighbourhood, protruded by volcanic powers, and is so hardened and cracked that to work it is impossible. This may also explain the very in- ferior workmanship of almost all the walls, which are composed of chips of stone, and even boulders, held together with cement : the theatre and one or two walls are exceptions. The singular protruding hills around are described by Captain Beaufort in his Survey, as appearing from the sea like tumuli. I do not see in the general appearance of the ruins of this place any traces of an after people — no old material built into the walls; but there are several indications of the former existence of a Christian church, perhaps of a late date. Probably these ruins may not be many centuries old. At the present time the_ Greek Church holds several spots along this coast, sacred to the memory of St. Nicholas, St. John, and St. Paul. May 2nd. — Leaving Haggevalleh, we passed in half an hour the somewhat large village of Eetheree. The old konak here appeared going to ruin : the new Agas do not take possession of these establishments, but leave them open for any stranger to occupy; should firewood be scarce, a rafter from the roof or planks from the floor are torn up for the purpose. p 2 212 LYCIA. We skirted the plain of the bay of Phineka, along the richly- wooded slopes of the mountains curving to- wards the south-east, and afterwards to the south, and arrived in three hours at a village called Phineka-cooe. From this point we ascended a wooded mountain, and descended upon the beautiful little bay formed by Cape Chelidonia, the ancient Promontarium Sacrum, which is carried onwards into the sea by the rocky islands be- yond its point. I observed a few tombs cut in the cliffs in this wild neighbourhood. Colonel Leake, in his map, suggests that Melanippe is likely to be found here. Turning to the north, we followed a ravine which led to a pastoral district inhabited by yourooks, tending their flocks of sheep ; and after traversing for three hours this bold but rich scenery, we took an easterly direction, and descended rapidly the deep ravine lead- ing to the bay of Atrasarny. We soon after passed some high peaks of rocks, which appeared as if the mountain had been built up by a Cyclopean people and an earthquake had shaken down their gigantic struc- tures. After a ride of seven hours we arrived at the village of Atrasarny, every hut of which was com- pletely concealed in an orchard or labyrinth of fruit- trees. I amused myself by noticing the various kinds*, all probably scattered here by nature, for I find several * Pomegranate, vine, orange, apricot, peach, walnut, carob, almond, mulberry, pistacia, pear, gegefer and fig ; above and amidst the rocks were the olive, plane, oak, stone-pine and cypress. PROMONTARIUM SACRUM. 213 of the Turkish names of the villages imply their natural productions of fruit. The scenery of this promontory is unique, in its com- bination of sublime grandeur with the most luxuriant richness of vegetation. The stems of many myrtles, through extensive woods of which we rode yesterday, were a foot in diameter, and generally six or eight inches; the strawberry-arbutus and the daphne-laurel are here large trees. In the animal world nature exhi- bits less variety. How I envy its universal tongue! the birds sing the same song, and all the various flocks have the same voice — their instincts are universal. This morning flies bit the horses, swallows skimmed over the ground, and rain followed in torrents; the cattle all turned their backs to the beating storm, and the sea-birds flew to the shore. I was amused by watching a chanieleon which crossed my path, about eighteen inches long, and with its tail curved upwards, walking exactly as we should do on all fours ; its fore- legs had the same motion as our hands would have, at each step contracting the palms and lifting the feet un- necessarily high from the ground. The motion of this singular but beautiful little animal is very slow, its rolling eyeballs and quick tongue moving almost too rapidly to be perceptible ; I observed that its colour varied, without the animal being in any way alarmed, as it passed the several shades of the earth, the grass, and the rocks. We have shot a few of the birds of gay plumage, the Bee-eater and the Roller, for their skins ; 214 LYCIA. but the trouble of preparing the whole myself is greater than I can undertake, knowing from my collection on the last journey that few of these birds differ from those which annually visit England. Among the flowers, the most striking now in bloom is the splendid snake- grass {Arum dracunculus). The beauty of this is quite overlooked by the flower-admiring Turk, who holds it in disgust entirely on account of its fetid smell ; while the most minute flower, and even the budding leaves of the walnut and other trees, are continually presented from one to another on account of their sweetness. May 3rd. — ^We have hitherto had but few disappoint- ments arising from the accounts of ruins given by the people, but we have now lost several days, owing to the variety of names for the same village, and to the mis- representation of the ruins by a Greek pripst, who told us of a beautiful temple and columns, and other re- mains, in the mountain : the name of the place was Che- ralee. In our search for this, we have merely come to the Genoese town of Deliktash, upon the coast, which I have before visited and described as the an- cient Olympus. It certainly does contain the basement of the walls of a temple, but there is no appearance of its ever having had columns ; nor is it at all seen above the wilderness of bushes and Genoese walls by which it is surrounded. I find that the name given to the coast generally is Cheralee. Probably from the cir- cumstance of the Greeks visiting this place from the sea only (on their trading expeditions for firewood, with OLYMPUS. 215 "which this coast abounds); the description of the ruins given by them differs much from the accounts of per- sons who could compare them with the ruined cities of the interior. A ride of two hours from Atrasarny, through a deep ravine between high cliffs and peaks of rock standing out boldly from the pine forests beneath, brought us to the sea at Deliktash. Disappointed at finding myself in a place I cared little to see again, we turned our horses' heads and retraced our steps up the ravine ; and keeping along its rapid little river, in less than two hours we arrived at a few houses called, from the river, Chicooe. On entering the village, we had difficulty in finding any inhabitants, which was afterwards thus accoimted for : during the old system of governing this country, every facility was given by the Pashas, and all grades of officials under them, for cultivating the ground and increasing and maintaining their own influence: this individual exertion, and the capital lent by these go- vernors for the purchase of seed, together with pecu- niary assistance to increase the stock, are now with- drawn, and the various Pashas have sent to seize upon all the stock and crops of last year for the full pay- ment of their loans. The distress is consequently very great : the barley, which is in Asia Minor the food of horses only, has been all consumed by the people, and until the corn ripens they are living almost wholly upon herbs. In other cases, as in this village, where the crops were derived from different sources, such as fruit, 216 LYCIA. silk, or tobacco, the people, on being deprived of all their harvest, have left the place : only two families re- main to represent Chicooe, which is described as having had within these two years a large and wealthy popula- tion : the fences, fountains, sheds, and cultivated mul- berry-trees confirm this account. This is the natural consequence of so great and sudden a change of sy- stem; in a few years it may perhaps work better, but the Turk still has the same manners, and as yet — but his days are numbered — commands the peasantry. Our cavalcade was shunned by the few remaining vil- lagers, under the idea that we were Turks, who, when they pass through, consume the little store of the half- ruined people ; and, if not supplied, the whip is ap- plied to make them seek it from the flocks. When the villagers were told that we were willing to pay for what we required, and a few eggs were purchased at the rate of six for a penny, supplies were brought from all quar- ters — fowls, milk, butter, youghoort and honey. PLAINS OF PHINEKA. 217 May 4M. — ^We are again at Armootlee. Leaving our fruitful little village on the river of Olympus, we con- tinued a steep ascent towards the west for nearly three hours, passing from the mountain-limestone of the high crags encircling us, over an isolated mound (about half a mile in extent) of granite and other volcanic produc- tions, accompanied of course by a zone of slaty, hard- baked and shivered limestone. Within a few miles of this spot, toward the north-east, is the Yanah Dah, or Burning Mountain, which I regret being unable to visit; there is a small aperture in the rock, through which a stream of inflammable gas has issued continually, and unvarying, from time beyond the reach of history j it is mentioned by Pliny, and is now, as formerly, con- nected with many tales of superstition. Some writers have supposed this phenomenon to have identified these mountains as the scene of the Chimsera. Their tops are much frequented by eagles and vultures, and the di- strict is that of Mount Phoenix. Whence had we the emblem of the Phoenix rising from the flames ? On the summit of the mountain we were ascending stood the village of Ballintayer, which commanded a splendid panoramic view, including the range of high mountains on the eastern coast — broken by the deep gorges in which stand the ancient cities of Olympus and Phaselis. The beauty of the natural scenery is un- altered, and the blue sea stretches across the openings in the mountains, carrying the eye on to the extended and snow-capped range of the Taurus until it is lost 218 LYCIA. in the horizon. Traversing the wooded summit of this mountain, we kept on a westward course, until a rapid descent brought us down upon the valley at Eetheree : a ride of two more hours along the plain completed our journey. Not having in this excursion found the ancient city of Corydalla, I feel sure that it must lie up the valley at the north of Gagse ; but being unable to hear of any ruins there, and having wasted several days, I shall leave this city for others to explore, and tomorrow pro- ceed on my way toward the interior of the country. May 5th. — My tent is pitched about twenty miles up the valley of the ancient Arycandus, to the north of Limyra. A journal, after all, is only a register of the state of the mind as impressed by the objects of the day; I shall therefore not hesitate to describe my own feeelings, and confess that I never felt less inclined or less able to put to paper any remarks than the impres- sions produced by my ride during the last five hours. I have heard others speak of a melancholy being caused by the overwhelming effect of the sublime ; but it is not melancholy when better analysed ; it is a thought- fulness and feeling of gratified pleasure which affects me, and I long to express what perhaps is better indi- cated by the prostration of the Oriental worshiper than by any verbal description ; I feel as if I had come into the world and seen the perfection of its loveliness, and was satisfied. I know no scenery equal in- sublimity and beauty to this part of Lycia, VALLEY OF THE ARYCANDUS. 219 The mere mention of mountain scenery cannot give any idea of the mountains here, which are broken into sections forming cliffs, whose upheaved strata stand erect in peaks many thousand feet high, uniting to form a wild chaos, but each part harmonized by the other ; for all is grand, yet lovely. Deep in the ra- vines dash torrents of the purest water, and over these grow the most luxuriant trees ; above, are the graver forests of pines upon the grey cliffs, and higher than these are ranges of mountains capped with snow, con- trasting with the deep blue of the cloudless sky. But to the details of the road. Recrossing the ancient Greek bridge, which I find to be four hundred and sixty-two yards in length, we again passed the ruins of Limyra and its extended district of tombs, to the village of Demergee, at which place we took a northerly direction up the narrow valley of the river, probably the ancient Arycandus. About six miles from Limyra, we saw on the brow of a cliff above us some beautiful tombs, in such good preservation that they appeared but the work of yesterday. On exami- nation I found that this was effected in the following manner : the overhanging rock was carefully sloped into a roof, and a regular gutter cut in this, carrying off all the dripping water from the sculptured tomb, which thus remains unstained as on the day of its forma- tion, above two thousand years ago. My disappoint- ment as well as surprise was great, that such beautiful and important. tombs should not have been inscribed 220 LYCIA. or painted ; there were about twenty, in the same rock, one representing novelties in architecture somewhat Persian*, and more perfect than we had before seen. These tombs are now closed with wooden doors, and serve as the locked granaries of the peasantry in the neighbourhood. I have carefully sketched one of themf , which stands upon the top of the cliff ; the rock has been cut away, leaving it a solid piece with the cliff. I have selected this tomb, as showing perhaps more distinctly than usual that these monuments are close imitations of wooden buildings. This is percept- ible in most of the tombs in Lycia ; but here are seen imitations of the ties, bolts, joints, and mouldings so peculiar to the art of carpentry. No trace whatevei* of a town is visible, but the situation led us to seek Arycanda. Two miles further up the valley, many broken sarcophagi of a heavy form lay on the side of the mountains, and by the road several walls were built into the rocks ; three piles of buildings, with arched windows and small apartments, stood within a few hundred yards of each other. This must have been an ancient town, but not of much importance, judging from the rude materials employed. Proceeding onwards for an hour more, walls and sar- cophagi were scattered around us, but on none of these were any inscriptions legible: they all occupied sites worthy of the ancients, indeed in this valley it would * See Plate IX. No. 10. f See Plate XII. ARYCANDA. 221 be difficult to find any otherwise. The Turks generally- select the low swampy plain, and we have consequently not yet seen in this valley any village. We are in our tent, on a knoll or promontory standing over the river, which dashes round three sides of our encampment, some hundred feet beneath. The fir-trees around are a study for an artist, and the high mountains above us vary in beauty according to their aspect. I have just discovered that we are not entirely shut out of the world ; the crowing of a cock attracted my attention to the beautiful over-shot wheel of a water-mill, and the owner is wading across the stream with eggs and pro- visions for our meal. May 6th. — We have reached Avelan, about twenty- five miles north-west of our last night's encampment. For ten miles the road continued up the river, occa- sionally crossing and recrossing it by bridges of the simplest construction, the lofty trees reaching from the rocks on either side, and a number of smaller ones being laid transversely: The scenery only changed its beauties : the richer fruit-trees disappeared as we gra- dually ascended, and the pines and walnuts succeeded ; the plane still shadowed the course of the river, its branches stretching over the roaring stream. The rocks became less craggy a,nd wooded, and gradually assumed the wilder grandeur of mountains, the fir-trees clothing their sides up to the snowy tops. The river, I may now say with certainty, is the Arycandus ; for at about thirty-five miles from the sea, and ten on our journey 222 LYCIA. of today, we found the extensive ruins of a city, and in one inscription the name of Arycamda. There is great excitement and pleasure in discovering these cities^ once so splendid, and whose sites even have been for twenty centuries unknown. Close to the road on our left, and standing upon a precipitous promontory, at the foot of which wound the river, were the ruins of a city, but apparently one of those I should class as Venetian or Genoese. Some hewn stones around the doors, and a few columns, as well as the corner-stones of the walls, showed the power of execution ; but the rest of the numerous buildings were formed of small stones, unhewn and held together chiefly by cement, which I have never found to be the case in those of the early Greeks. No theatre or other public building was visible; and seeking elsewhere for more remains, I saw at the distance of a mile and a half, up the side of the mountain on our right, massive Greek walls of considerable extent. Leaving our horses, we went to explore them, and soon found an inscrip- tion, but too imperfect for me to copy the whole with- out much trouble, and awaiting the change of light. The name of Arycamda, however, caught my eye, and TWAYTOYGEMIZTOKAEIATTIKOYAPYKAMAEI^^* * Translation. — " To Themistocles, a citizen of Arycamda, the son of Lytus [?], from Attica." ARYCANDA. 223 we copied the line containing it, without reference to any other part of the inscription, and then proceeded through the numerous tombs around, hoping to find others more perfect. The absence of other inscriptions, and the interesting names of Themistocles and Attica occurring in this fragment, which I did not notice until I was many miles distant, make me regret my want of perseverance in not endeavouring to copy the whole : there were four preceding lines and one following. Passing the tombs, we saw that this highly-orna- mented city had been built on the side of a steep moun- tain, and that the buildings had formed terraces one above the other. To one series of these I cannot give a name ; they were generally rooms twenty to thirty feet square, covered by one fine arch, the walls Cyclo- pean — built into, and with, the rock behind : the front alone was visible, the roof often serving as a terrace for buildings above. The beautiful execution of the door- ways in front, which were coeval with the Cyclopean walls, may be seen from the accompanying sketch. The large doorway represented in the subjoined wood- cut is in the centre ; within, the arched roof was gene- rally plastered, and had been painted ; along the back, and half way down each side, was a raised bench, five feet wide, -the height suitable for a seat, but far too deep ; there was no appearance of recesses for lamps or other purposes, usually found in the mausoleums of the ancient Greeks. 224 LYCIA. These buildings appear too large for tombs, and they must have been, I think, small for temples. The orna- ments were not funereal, and no inscription occurred but the following. t NHKA* * "It conquers"? ARYCANDA. 225 The above inscription was. cut upon the wall of one of these buildings, of the Corinthian style of ornament, and is a strong argument for their having been tem- ples ; it may also be of interest to the moralist, pro- bably describing the exultation of the Christians of the Byzantine age over the vanquished Pagans ; how soon did the Christians disappear before the Moslems, and how has time robbed both of this now ruined and deserted district ! I should attribute the style of these buildings to the time of the Roman emperors ; they are not sufficiently simple in their ornaments for an earlier age. A coin found amidst the ruins, and copied in Plate XXXV. No. 3, bears the name of the city Arycanda, and the head of the emperor Gordian. At the back of the theatre, which stood still higher up the mountain, was a wall, with buttresses to oppose the avalanches of stones rolling down a slight ravine in the rocks ; but this has given way before the masses which have fallen during so many centuries, and have buried the back or centre seats of the theatre ; the rest were quite perfect, and the proscenium could be traced by its bold Cyclopean walls. Below the theatre was a platform, which had seats on the rising side of the rock and at the ends : this I imagined to be a stadium, but the length of the course was only eighty yards. The most conspicuous building in the city had several halls, and two tiers of windows at the end ; some of these halls terminated (like several others I have seen in Greek cities) with a fine arch and a circular end; a 226 LYCIA. within this recess were windows, the whole being on a large scale. There were numerous other piles of ruins, to which I can give no name, as well as several de- tached kind of towers, of fine massive Greek structure : these are scattered at some distance from the ruins of the city. Leaving Arycanda, we in half an hour crossed a river, which appeared suddenly from the mountains to the east, forming a main tributary to the Arycandus; the city might therefore be said to be at the head of the river as soon as it became worthy of a name. This valley, as we continued its ascent, became more wild, and fir-trees and cedars alone remained to clothe the rocks ; the few patches of cultivation indicated a change of season, caused by our increased elevation. The corn, which we had the day before seen changing colour for the harvest, was here not an inch above the ground, and the buds of the bushes were not yet bursting. Having left the course of the river for about three hundred yards, we found on our return that its bed was dry. Riding up the stony ravine until we reached a ridge, we descended sUghtly for about a mile and a half to Avelan, which consists of only three houses : although in a comparatively cold region, we have pre- ferred the tent to the stable-like accommodation these huts afforded. 227 CHAPTER X. Avelan — its Lake — Extensive Plains — Disappearance of a River — Al- malee — its Population — Mosques — Trade — Site of ancient city, pro- bably Podalia — Source of Rivers — ^Passage of Mountain-^High Plains — The Yeeilassies — Annual Migration of the Tribes — Valley of the Xanthus — Macry — Rhodes — Gity of Rhodes — Sailors — Lavisse — Carmylessus — Return to the Yeeilassies — Review of Lycia. May 8th, Almalee. — ^This district is entirely unknown to Europeans, and has quite a distinct character from that of the country through which we have before passed : no maps of course exist. The disadvantages of this are very great, as we know not where to steer or what places to ask for ; but there are also advantages, and the surprise on arriving last evening at Avelan was one, for at this elevation (above three thousand feet above the sea) we found a large lake, three or four miles wide and ten long, and a plain of three times that size covered with corn just springing above the ground, without a tree to break the perfect monotony of the level. At the north-east end of this plain stands the largest town in Lycia — almost the largest in Asia Minor ; it far exceeds the size of Idin, and probably q2 228 LYCIA. contains twenty-five thousand inhabitants. We were in some degree prepared to expect this, by the hundreds of people we yesterday met on the road, at the distance of twenty miles, returning from the market held in this town. Our road today for the first six miles skirted the lake to the north and north-west, and at the foot of mountains covered with cedars and large trees of the arhor vitce. The shrubs are the rose, the barbary, and wild almond, but all are at present fully six weeks later than those in the country we have lately passed. I observed on the lake (called by the people Avelan- gouluh) many stately wild swans, and several large red- ducks ; smaller waterfowl were numerous. This plain is the largest tract of corn-land, and the best cultivated, that I have seen in Asia Minor. The season is late before the state of the ground allows the use of the plough, as for several weeks after the snow disappears this dead level remains too swampy for cul- ture. The extensive lake has apparently no river run- ning from it, but the singular disappearance of a rapid and large stream of water, probably thirty feet wide and six deep, which crossed our track over the plain about three miles from this place, may suggest other modes of dispersing the water besides evaporation. The river of which I speak rushes into a large cave in the moun- tain with a tremendous roar, and is lost amidst the masses of rocks deep in its dark recesses. The cavern- ous Hmestone of this district fully accounts for the sudden appearance of several rivers in the plains of ALMALEE. 229 Phineka ; among these I may mention the one at Li- myra, and probably the Arycandus, which we lost sight of so abraptly near the top of the mountain, as well as its great tributary near the ancient city, A few hundred feet above the plain of Almalee, to the eastward, is another, many miles in extent and co- vered with corn ; each of these has its villages on the rise of the surrounding mountains. Upon my remark- ing the very few minarets of mosques seen on entering this town, I heard that most of the inhabitants were Armenians and Greeks. The houses of the town are good, but entirely built of mud and timber ; conse- quently even the garden-walls, chimneys, and gateways have a wide roof of thin warped boards, giving an unsightly appearance to the whole town. Tlie prin- cipal mosque is the handsomest I have seen out of Constantinople. The ornaments of the minaret, cut in stone, are a beautiful specimen of the best ara- besque. The minarets of some of the other mosques are entirely formed of wood. Water, the indispensable element to the Turk, runs through each street, and several mills are turned by the streams. Around the town, and up the ravines in the steep mountains at the back, are excellent gardens, well cultivated with the vine and other fruit-trees, but the almond alone is yet in bloom. The surrounding mountains have not even a bush upon them, and the fire-wood for this town is brought from the forests of cedars which we had passed on the mountains. For a few pence, a load 230 LYCIA. of excellent cedar was placed at our door, showing in its fracture the rich colour of the wood of our pencils ; and as we walked upon the house-top in the evening, the smoke from the various chimneys quite scented the air with the perfume of cedar- wood. The evening view from the roof of our khan was very picturesque ; the cry of the Iraan from the mosques, the bells of the camels, and rattling bills of the cranes upon the sur- rounding roofs, the varied "costumes of the people in the streets, with jewels and coins on the heads of the females, into whose harems* our exalted situation com- manded a view, added a peculiar interest and beauty to the scene. A variety of trades are here carried on by this active people. Tanning is among the chi,ef, but this is un- accompanied by the disagreeable odours of an English tan-yard ; the tan is here of the Velanea, and gives the well-known scent to Turkey leather : the scent of the Russian leather is still more agreeable. I observe camels loaded with roots, resembling very fine horse- radishf: this is found plentifully here, and used in making a sweetmeat ; but it is principally obtained as a substitute for soap, and used in the raw state. Se- veral woods and roots used in dyeing are also articles of merchandize in this town, and there is a consider- able trade in the skins of hares. * The harem is the portion of the house of the Turk set apart for the use of his family. f The Silene. ALMALEE. 231 I was somewhat surprised to learn from my servant that the people are so well informed as to the nature of the disappearance of the waters into the earth, which I have already noticed; such phsenomena being here, and even in parts of our own country, accompanied by traditionary superstitions ; a person in our khan told my servant the following tale. Seven years ago there was very little snow during the winter, and the follow- ing summer was unusually dry; the consequence was the perfect exhaustion of the -supplies of this stream, and the cave ceased for above a month to receive any waters. The Pasha by rewards induced five men to explore the cave with torches ; the relator of this ac- count said that he was among the number, and that they walked for three hours along a level sandy plain within the mountain. The following year the season brought as great a deluge as the former did a drought ; the whole plain of Almalee was a flood, like the sea, and many of the mud houses w^ere wash d away. The consequences of the cessation, and again the rush of turbid water, were successively felt in the rivers which rise in the plains of Phineka around Limyra. The lake here is permanent, and seldom less than at present; but the annual floods, on the melting of the snows, ren- der a great portion of the plain a morass until about the end of April. I have observed that here, at Kastelorizo and other places where the Greek population is considerable, the governor of the town always sends a guard or police- 232 LYCIA. , man to wait on the outside of the door of our room. I have frequently declined this honour as unnecessary, but the reply has always intimated that we and our property are, while in the town, under the protection of the governor, and that he cannot answer for the honesty of all the people. This has never occurred in the towns where the number of the Greeks was small. May 9th. — On leaving Almalee this morning, our road lay towards the north-west, rising considerably as we wound round the girth of the mountain, at the foot of which the town is built. From the elevation we attained, the extensive valleys, all green with the springing corn, were traced to an immense distance. A branch of the great plain wound beneath our hiU, and at the end of this we descended through the village of Esky-Hissa, which was said to be full of ruins ; its name implies an ancient city. Two or three tombs in the rock, without inscriptions, and a rude Cyclopean wall, are all the works of art that remain on its site, well formed by nature for a fine city : this may probably have been the ancient Podalia. At the pointed end of this plain a river enters it from the mountains, which we found was formed by the united waters of two con- siderable streams from the north-east and north-west, which joined a few yards above. Up the ravine of the - latter, from the north-west, we followed a good track by the side of the rapid and picturesquely-broken torrent : the high rocks rose abruptly on either side, and the space for the road and river was so narrow, that the PODALIA. 233 asses loaded with wood had to wait in recesses of the rocks while we passed. At the distance of a few miles up this ravine, on the face of the rock, which stood' out and caused the waters to change their course, was cut in a somewhat rude style this monument : if it was '\Qaa mPAOAor-EXujEz OYGAZrTMlAYAI oAurorvAfiTOY lSirEZXY0nXKAl KOr0NIAIDA\L/y. funereal, the tomb had not been opened, nor did there appear to be any chamber in the rock. We found no tombs, nor any traces of an ancient site in the neigh- bourhood, but all was wild and rocky. From the natu- ral portal formed by the rocks, I should have fancied this a barrier between two districts, and the inscription may record it*. * Milyas was the ancient name of the whole of this elevated district of Lycia. 234 LYCIA. We continued our ascent through the same ravine, and, at the distance of nearly twenty miles from Al- malee, reached the abrupt source of the river, gushing out of the mountain-side in a picturesque cascade, and falling into the bed of the rippling stream, along which our course still continued towards the snow mountains to the north-west. This stream is one of the sources of the river, which disappears in the plains of Almalee. Ascending through a winterly climate, with snow by the side of our path, and only the crocus and anemones in bloom, we soon stood upon the summit of this barren part of the range, at a height exceeding five thousand feet. From hence we beheld a new series of cultivated plains to the west, being in fact table-lands, nearly upon a level with the tops of the mountains which form the eastern boundary of the valley of the Xanthus. Still far above us, to the south-west, stood Massicytus, a stu- pendous snow-mountain, by far the highest in Lycia. To the north-west was the lofty range giving source to the river Xanthus, and forming a high snow-capped wall of partition to the elevated country of Phrygia, whose table-lands lie but a little below the summit of the range. Descending to the plain, probably a thou- sand feet, we pitched our tent, after a ride of seven hours and a half. Upon boiling the thermometer, I found that we were more than four thousand feet above the sea, and, cutting down some dead trees, we pro- vided against the coming cold of the evening by light- ing three large fires around our encampment. The YEEILASSIES. 235 effect of both the light and heat of the sun is ex- tremely powerful, and the night-air in this dimate keen and frosty. The moon and stars in this atmosphere, lighting the snowy mountain-tops,* had an effect singu- larly calm and sublime, and their cold wTiite light con- trasted strongly with that of the blazing branches of the arbor-vittB upon the piles of burning embers, around which, in their richly- coloured costumes, lay our sleep- ing attendants. This tree grows on these mountains to a large size, its height being generally above forty feet, and the diameter of its stem above three : it is probably a Cyprus, but of a species differing from any I have before seen. The trees here must be many centuries old. All the names of the villages in these high districts terminate in -yeeilassy, which means a cool place, a sum- mer place ; and most of them have their corresponding village in the valleys. This plain, called Satala-yeei- lassy, is occupied by a people who in the winter months live at Satala-cooe, our next stage on the way to Macry. Another adjoining plain is called Carachewfathers-yeei- lassy, in which place we had been told that extensive ruins existed, but on approaching it we could hear nothing of them ; noi' were any ruins known to exist in this elevated valley or plain, which is probably ten or twelve miles in length. Several fragments of sarcophagi and pedestals were scattered over the plain, from one of which I copied the following inscription, but I could discover no site of any ancient city. 236 LYCIA. AA^^AIOrEN ElZI AION H ATPI AlOrENEIMOAHTOYMNHMHZ ENEKEN * We descended a few hundred feet towards the west, to another plain of equal extent, watered by a stream, which, by the addition of the waters from the plain above, and also of others on the north, had assumed the character of a considerable river. For six hours we travelled over this highly-cultivated but late-seasoned district, when we turned towards the south-west, and passed over a sUght barrier of wooded hills. At the point where we quitted the plains, we observed considerable remains of old materials lying about the rocks, and also several ornamented sarco- phagi in the burial-grounds of the Yourooks, but could observe no satisfactory site for a city, nor any founda- tions of walls. In three hours we halted in a forest upon a high ridge, but some way down the gradual descent which led us again into the valley of the Xanthus. The river had kept a more northerly course, and was hurried down a precipitous ravine to the gorge at the back of Hoorahn, which, I have before said, supplied almost the whole of the waters to the Xanthus. I had difficulty in imagining how so great a volume of water could find * The first lines of this fragmentary inscription contained the names of some brothers, each having the cognomen of Diogenes, who erected this " to the memory of their father Diogenes, the son of Moletus." YEEILASSIES, 237 its way through an apparently unbroken snow-capped range of mountains, but the occurrence of the high plains almost upon the level of their summits explains all the phaenomena of this singular country. Having sought in vain around the whole range of Mount Mas- sicytus for the ruins of the city of that name, which was known to lie at its foot, I now feel sure that the ruins at Hoorahn are those of the ancient city. I have two coins found in the neighbourhood belonging to Mas- si cytus ; and their form, emblems, and reverses are the same as those of the other cities in the valley of the Xanthus, each being distinguished only by the initials of their respective towns. This, together with the frag- ment of an inscription found there, and the situation and relative importance of the ruins, makes me feel confident that this was the ancient Massicytus. May \Oth. — No place is without its interest: before pitching our tent, we found two natural springs gushing from the rocks close by, and trees already burning* afforded us an ample supply of fire. Some old walls, the ruins of a Turkish khan, attracted our attention, being composed of portions of old sarcophagi, from which I copied the following fragment of an inscrip- tion ; but I fear it will not afford information as to the former inhabitants of this most beautiful spot ; no ap- pearance of a town could be traced amidst the thicket upon the precipitous cliff before us. * See Journal of 1838, p. 257,— mode of felling trees. 238 LYCIA. ^^lAETOVnOCOPION^ MSIM ITI N AlTEKNTOEM^ I Al ATATHTIlA/^NOAn H^ MMMNUy lAEKAIATO nnCEM I AETI n/KMV/KYTM EnNAIIMnAHNAI XEIAI^ EKA ■'MffM/j. NTAITCXEIATAKAI ETATA J ITH^NTAMATATAfMAIC^ * The interest of our halt was greatly increased by our observing an almost uninterrupted train of cattle and people moving from the valleys to the cool places for the summer season — the yeeilassies. I was much struck by the simplicity and patriarchal appearance of the several families, which brought forcibly to mind the descriptions of pastoral life in Bible history. What a picture would Landseer make of such a pilgrimage ! The snowy tops of the mountains were seen through the lofty and dark green fir-trees, terminating in abrupt cliffs many thousand feet of perpendicular height. From clefts in these gushed out cascades, falling in torrents, the sound of which, from their great distance, was heard only in the stillness of the evening, and the * Fragment of a funereal inscription. In the last Une but three, the fine (more than 1000 denarii) is named, which is to be paid to the people of a town, the name of which has disappeared. YEEILASSIES. 239 waters were carried away by the wind in spray over the green woods, before they could reach their deep bed in the rocky ravines beneath. In a zigzag course up the wood lay the track leading to the cool places. In advance of the pastoral groups were the straggling goats, browsing on the fresh blossoms of the wild al- mond as they passed. In more steady courses followed the small black cattle, with their calves, and among them several asses, carrying in saddle-bags those calves that were too young to follow their watchful mothers. Then came the flocks of sheep and the camels each with their young; two or three fine-grown camels bear- ing piled loads of ploughs, tent-poles, kettles, pans, presses, and all the utensils for the dairy; and amidst this rustic load was always seen the rich Turkey carpet and damask cushions, the pride even of the tented Turk. Behind these portions of the train I must place, with more finish, the family — ^the foreground of my picture. An old man, and generally his wife, head the clan, which consists of several generations ; many of them must have seen near five score summers on the moun- tains : the old man, grasping a long stick, leads his children with a firm step. His son, the master of the flocks, follows with his wife ; she is often seated on a horse, with a child in her arms, and other horses are led, all clothed with the gay trappings of a Turkish steed. Asses are allotted to the younger children, who are placed amidst the domestic stores, and never with- 240 LYCIA. out a pet cat in their arms : long, tresses of hair hang down their necks, and are kept closely to the head by a circlet of coins. By their side walks the eldest son, with all the air and alacrity of a young sportsman; over his shoulder hangs a long-barrelled gun, in his hand is the cage of a decoy partridge, and a classic- looking hound follows at his heels : a number of shep- herd boys mingle with the flocks and bring up the rear. The gay costume, the varied noises of the cattle, and the high glee attending the party on this annual expe-. dition, must be supplied by the imagination. I should think that twenty families passed in succes- sion during our halt, few of them having less than one hundred head of stock, and many had more. In some families, attendants, servants or farming-labourers, were among the cattle, generally with their aprons tied around them, in which they carried two or three young kids ; they had often over their shoulders a small calf, with all its legs held together on the breast, exactly as seen in the offerings on the bas-reliefs at Xanthus and else- where. The longevity of the people in this pastoral country is very remarkable. I am sure that we have seen at least twenty peasants within the last two days above a hundred years of age, and apparently still enjoying health and activity of body ; in some instances the mind appeared wandering. An old-looking hag, screaming violently, seized my servant Mania, and asked if he was come to take away her other child for a soldier, for if VALLEY OF THE GLAUCUS. 241 he were gone she should have none left to take care of her. The temperate habits of the Turks, as well as some of their customs, may in part account for the prolongation of life in this country. One custom I may mention as tending to diminish the cares of age, and to show the excellence of these simple people. When sons grow up and marry, the father gives over to them his flocks and property, and trusts to the known and natural afiection of his children to take care of him in his declining years : to a son his parents are always his first charge. Descending the mountain, we traversed the ridge of one of those long promontories which cut the valley of the Xanthus into bays, and leave scarcely a bed for the winding river. Our descent brought us immediately upon the bridge which we had crossed on our way to visit Tlos. Baiting our horses for two hours at noon, we continued a westerly direction for three hours over the undulating and wooded hills leading to the head of the valley of the Glaucus. On these hills a small stream takes its rise, and runs toward the centre of the plain, but is so nearly lost in the swampy lands that it can scarcely be recognized as a river — the ancient Glaucus. It took us nearly three hours to traverse the plain on our return to Macry, where my first inquiry was respecting the arrival of the Beacon ship, which, in accordance with instructions sent from the Admiralty, I had arranged to meet here on this day, the 12th of May, to endeavour to transport the 242 LYCIA. marbles from Xanthus to England, for the British Museum. I was disappointed ; the vessel had not been heard of on the coast, and I therefore at once took a boat for Rhodes, to gain what information I could upon the subject from our Vice-consul stationed there. 243 CHAPTER XI. Rhodes — City of Rhodes — Sailors — Lavisse — Carmylessus — Return to the Yeeilassies — Review of Lycia. May \^th. — ^Thirty hours' endurance of the sea, mostly in a scorching sun, brought us at two o'clock in the morning to the quay within the stately harbour of Rhodes. The beautiful tower, which is the striking feature of the city, commands the entrance. The pass- word being called, we landed, and by the light of a full moon spread our carpet upon the quay, and enjoyed an English breakfast of tea and toast, long before the inhabitants of the town opened their gates. I was surprised to find that the city retains so much of the huildings and fortifications of the Knights of Rhodes. Probably the only change in the view of the town from the harbour, during the last eight centu- ries, is the elegant minarets of the Turkish mosques here and there peering above the walls. Armorial bearings and architectural ornaments, of what we call the Tudor age, are seen on the fronts of almost every house ; and to those who take an interest in the hi- r2 244 LYCIA. story of the middle ages, the castle where the last re- sistance and surrender was made, and the tower under which sixteen thousand Turks fell before it yielded to their sway, illustrate perfectly the scenes and events recorded. Many dates are on the walls, blended with gothic ornaments generally of about the tenth century. The rocks alone point out the site of the famed Colossus at the entrance of the smaller harbour. I found one or two pedestals worked up in modern buildings, which show marks of Greek art in their heads and festoons, and in the well-cut inscriptions, but no other trace of the ancient Greeks was discoverable. AYZANAPOYAYZANAPOY XAAKHTAKAITAZrYN Al KOZ KAEAINIAOZKAAAIKIATIAA KPYAZZIAOZ * PYPrOZ AXlPKilNOZ t The present town within the walls is thickly inha- bited, but the mass of the Frank population reside in its * Translation. — " [The tomb ?] of, Lysander, the son of Lysander, a citizen of Chalce, and of his wife Clesenis, the daughter of Callicra- sides, a citizen of Cryassa." Published by Boeckh (No. 2553), who remarks, that both the little island of Chalce, or Chalcia, and the town Cryassa in Caria, were under the dominion of the Rhodians. t Translation. — " The tower [tomb ?] of Dorco." RHODES. 245 environs, each having his house within a high-walled garden. The Greek inhabitants far outnumber all the rest. There are also many Jews, who are each night locked within their own quarters of the town. Con- siderable excitement prevails at present against this people, owing to a story of a Greek boy having been killed as a sacrifice to satisfy some of their superstitions. The case is now pending, but no Jew passes without the hoot or howl of the Greeks : the justice of the Porte was shown on the first hearing of this affair, by its ordering three of each party, Jew and Greek, to repair to Con- stantinople and give all the information they could, promising at the same time that the most impartial and strict inquiry should be made into the case. The Turks have a strong garrison here, and perhaps it may be more required than in other parts I have visited. Rhodes has seen many changes, and the great bulk of its inhabitants being aliens, it may not impro- bably experience many more. The island has forty villages, and produces much fruit of all kinds ; the peasantry are Greek, and if allowed the privileges prof- fered by the new Firman, they may cultivate the soil most profitably: the produce has hitherto been seized so capriciously, that the ground was only tilled for a sufficiency to "supply the inhabitants. A steampacket now touches at this island more than once in the month, on its way from Smyrna to Beyrout. Our hospitable but unpaid Vice-consul, Mr. Wilkinson, rendered me every information in his power, but could give no tidings of 246 LYCIA. the Beacon ship. At noon, on the day of our arrival (the 13th of May), we were again in our boat to re- turn, and in four hours were nearly within the bay of Macry. The breeze, which drove us on so quickly, was too fresh, and with a crash the foremast snapped off just above the deck. With one sail only we made but little way, and the land-breeze sprung up before we could reach our point. For nearly twenty hours we made scarcely any way, suffering much from the broil- ing sun, and paddling along with the feeble oars of the idle Greek sailors. At two o'clock, on the 14th of May, we were again on terra firma, and experiencing the insufferably oppressive and stagnant air of the bay of Macry. A striking contrast in character between the Greek and Turk is seen in the sailors. The Greek will put out to sea even in a brisk breeze, and work his boat with activity ; but should the gale increase to a storm, he will quit the helm and leave the vessel adrift, to repeat his prayers and cries of despair. The Turk, on the contrary, shows his fear in the first instance : he wUl never put to sea unless under the most favourable circumstances; but should an unforseeen storm arise, he is as unmoved as in the calm, apparently ready to meet his fate at his post, displaying a moral courage unknown to the Greek. May \Uh. — We have today ridden for two hours southward, to' the village called by the Greeks Lavisse, and by the Turks Tuslee, a name which signifies ' stone CARMYLESSUS. 247 village.' The first hour's ride was along a zigzag path up the steep mountain side at the back of Tel- messus, and then down a considerable descent into a highly-cultivated plain : the latter is divided into gar- dens, most of which have summerhouses or shelter from the sun, and each with walled fences. The town of Lavisse consists of about three or four hundred houses, well built, and entirely occupied by Greeks: from its commanding situation and the remains of a few tombs, I judge that it may probably be the site of a small ancient town, perhaps Cissidse. Rising from this plain in all directions, on the bare rocks, are seen scattered huts, mostly belonging to the Turks ; one of these groups is formed by the establishment of the Aga and a small mosque. Macry is the port or scala of this place, and it is here that the post is conducted, and all official business. Skirting the plain we passed through Lavisse, and over a hill to the sea-coast, in order to examine the ruins of an ancient city, supposed to be Carmylessusi situated principally upon an island and partly along the coast. After an hour's walk however, in the burning sun, we were disappointed at finding that the only boat which the coast suppUes had just put to sea for Kastelorizo. Delighted with the wild grandeur of the rugged scenery, we walked back to La- visse, and for two hours sat under the welcome shade of its luxuriant trees, surrounded by a number of Greeks, all apparently wealthy, and with talent to increase their riches. I purchased several coins of the country, and 248 LYCIA. have no doubt that these people possess many which would be valued for their rarity in Europe. The in- trinsic value of the metal seemed the price expected for the silver coins. I hope that some which I have col- lected in Lycia may prove useful in illustrating the lost history of the country. May \Qth. — We have once more escaped from the suflfocating air of Macry, and are now at the bridge of the Xanthus. The season is getting too hot to travel for pleasure; we are therefore, like the inhabitants of the deserted village of Satalacooe on the opposite side of the river, upon our way to the Yeeilassy. Our route is the same as that by which we descended a few days ago, and we intend afterwards to proceed as far as we can toward Smyrna by the high lands, passing over the country between Lycia and Mount Cadmus ; at all events it will be cool travelling, and the route is novel to Europeans. Enjoying the independence of a tent and horses, our wants are limited to firewood, water and grass for the horses ; the latter, I fear, will be the most difficult to procure in the yet wintry region of the high lands. I have long wished for this excursion, but could gain no information as to its practicability: hav- ing, however, when on the Yeeilassies, noticed the di- rection of the several ranges of mountains, I resolved to explore the country further, and expect to be able to lay down a map for future travellers. May \Bth. — We travelled yesterday nearly thirty miles, for most of the way ascending from the valley TAURUS MOUNTAINS. 249 of the Xanthus ; today we have proceeded thirty-four miles to-ward. the N.N.E., over a district elevated more than four thousand feet above the sea, and contain- ing a large population, industriously employed in cul- tivating an excellent corn country : immense plains of young wheat look most promising. There are very few villages, the peasants living during their short season here in tents. This district loses much of the beauty we have so long seen, from having but few trees, and from the want of variety in the kinds. The arbor vitee, or spreading cyprus, alone grows on the hills; and here and there on the plain a wild pear-tree, at this season scarcely showing its leaf, only reminds us of the absence of more beautiful trees. Our tent is pitched on the north of the range of high mountains which separates Lycia from Caria and Phrygia, and is described by Pliny as a part of the Taurus, ending in the west at Dsedala. Last night we pitched our tent on the north side of the plain of Satala- yeeilassy, the village lying to the eastward. In crossing the plain, and on the banks of the great tributary stream to the Xanthus which I mentioned before, we observed several columns and ornamented stones, of the Corin- thian order, and evidently on their original site. These have pi'obably belonged to a temple, but not of a very early Greek date. A little further on was another pile of squared stones — some carved into cornices and den- tiled; and in the Turkish burial-grounds, which were scattered over the valley, many remains of sculptured 250 LYCIA. white marble showed that the ruins of some ancient city were not far distant. An imperfect inscription, ill-cut upon a column, indicated by the form of the characters a late date, probably Christian. AP€AirON€^AnTTINoPrET rBY€rowTAN€crMO er y/M/M.m/. iKAeieTPC^^rciAC AIAXI Several pedestals, with figures in bas-relief, also showed a state of art more of the Byzantine than of an early Greek age — how different to the simplicity and beauty of the works we have generally found in Lycia ! I am inclined to draw a line of separation between the ancient Lycians and the Greeks who succeeded them, by the peculiarity shown in their architecture, sculpture and language : these indications of the Ly- cians we have entirely lost. The nature of the country also marks a strong line of demarcation. I have found no trace of the Lycians on the high plains, and none more northerly than Arycanda on the eastern side of the promontory formed by Lycia; nor have I discovered any on the east of the valley of the Xanthus, or to the north of Mount Massicytus, the whole country TAURUS MOUNTAINS. 251 containing traces of them being confined to the south- west of the range of Massicytus, and to the south of the northern chain from Daedala. I find no rock-tombs or gothic-formed sarcophagi, no Cyclopean walls or Lycian characters, in the cities on the eastern coast, or east of Limyra and Arycanda; an ill-designed tablet which I observed upon a rock on leaving Almalee was unworthy of the Lycians, and, from its inscription, may be attributed to the Myhans, whose country extended over that region. I also passed, between these plains and the district in which we are now travelling, a na- tural barrier of mountains, from which we had an ex- tensive view over the whole of the west of Lycia; this probably divided the country of the Mylians from that of the Cibyrates, who were to the north of Mount Massicytus — a conjecture which is in part borne out by Strabo, who says that Tlos was situated on the passage toward the country of the Cibyrates. On leaving Lycia, I must note down a few reflec- tions which arise from considering the many remains we have found in this highly interesting province. History assists us little in our investigation of the re- mains of the middle ages, in connection with the inha- bitants of Lycia. Of its earliest people we have more correct information from the poems of Homer and the works of Herodotus ; each author almost claims this district as his native country, and both seem to have been well acquainted with the poetic legends of its first inhabitants. They tell of Europa's visit, and of her 252 LYCIA. sons possessing the country; and some of the most beautiful parts of the Iliad recount the history of the Lycian- heroes, Sarpedon and Glaucus, The exploits of Bellerophon, and the tale of the children of king Pandarus, are related at length ; whilst the Chimsera, the natural peculiarities and beauty and fertility of the country are frequently extolled. I am inclined to consider almost all the works I have termed Lycian as belonging to this age and that immediately subsequent ; many of the peculiar sarco- phagi and obelisk-monuments, and much of the rock- architecture, the sculptures, and the language, as also the coins, of which I give a Plate among my inscrip- tions, belong to this period. None of these represent any subject which can be called Byzantine, Roman, or even connected with the known history of Greece ; the sub- jects are mythological, historical, or domestic scenes ; the history representing the earliest legends and the renowned feats of the time of the Trojan war. The nearest parallel to the domestic scenes appears to be in the Etruscan paintings. The coins to which I refer have upon them Bellerophon, Pegasus, the Sphinx, Pan, and the wild beasts of the country ; and on their reverse a triquetra, an unexplained but very ancient symbol, in- termixed with the early language of the country. Herodotus mentions the destruction of the Lycians about the year 550 B.C.*. Probably about that period, * CrcESus, whose reign commenced 562 b.c, succeeded in conquer- ing the whole of the province of Asia Minor, excepting Lycia and TAURUS MOUNTAINS. 253 and afterwards, the Grseco-Lycian coins appeared, with the head and emblems of Apollo, names of the country, and the initials of the several cities to which they be- longed, in Greek characters; these are known for almost all the cities from Massicytus to Olympus. Patara, the seat of the oracle of Apollo, Sidyma, and many other cities, appear to have arisen at this period, and I should attribute also to this age many of the fragments of sculpture found at Xanthus. History tells us that the Lycians were a brave and warlike people, famed for the use of the javelin and their skill in archery.: Xenophon says that they were sought to join the army of Cyrus in his march to the East ; and they afforded great assistance in the expedition of Xerxes. After this period the country became a colony of Cilicia, which never became subject to him. In the reign of his suc- cessor, Cyrus, we find the following account of their extinction as a nation : " When Harpagus led his army toward Xanthus, the Lycians boldly advanced to meet him, and, though inferior in number, behaved with the greatest bravery. Being defeated, and pursued into their city, they collected their wives, children, and valuable effects into the cita- del, and then consumed the whole in one immense fire. They after- wards, uniting themselves under the most solemn curses, made a pri- vate sally upon the enemy, and were every man put to death. Of those who now inhabit Lycia,. calling themselves Xanthians, the whole are foreigners, eighty families excepted ; these survived the calamity of their country, being at that time absent on some foreign expedition. Thus Xanthus fell into the hands of Harpagus; as also did Caunus, whose people imitated, almost in every respect, the example of the Lycians." — Herodotus, Book I. c. 176. 254 LYCIA. Greece, and was soon subjected to Rome ; its history is thenceforth blended with that of the rest of Asia Minor, which was more or less over-run by a Byzan- tine and Christian people. The very little that has hitherto been known, or rather surmised, of the Lycian language, appears to bear out this idea of the early history of the inhabitants of Lycia. The characters are not of Greek, but probably of Phoenician origin, and the root of the language, judging from many of the names of the cities, may have been derived also from the same nation, or from the Hebrew, which appears a natural geographical progression. In this point of view, Lycia is to me of the highest interest, more particularly from the extremely early works of ^ people whom, for the sake of distinction, I should call the ancient Ly- cianSj preceding a people who appeared to embrace the language and the mythology of the Greeks, and became Grseco-Lycians. In Plate XXXVII. I have added to the coins which I brought from the valley of the Xanthus, all bearing the Lycian characters that are known ; these latter have hitherto been left in the uncertain lists of coins, and attributed to Cilicia. This I have done, in order to make my collections of Lycian inscriptions more per- fect, and the present volume, with my Journal of 1838, will, I believe, now include all that have been brought to Europe. These coins, which are probably of the cities in the valley of the Xanthus, but certainly Lycian, bear marks of high antiquity, both in their manufac- TAURUS MOUNTAINS. 255 ture and devices. Of the twenty-two reverses, I observe that one represents Pan, one of the oldest of the gods, and supposed to he first introduced from Egypt : one has upon it a sphinx ; six have figures of lions and bulls, which may refer to Europa ; four represent Pega- sus ; one, a horse (which may relate to the exploits of Bellerophon), and one a naked man: the remaining eight have each the skin of a lion's head. Other coins which I have found in the country, representing wild boars (Plate XXXIV. Nos. 3 and 4), may probably be also of this date. In these coins we find no trace of Apollo, Diana, Jupiter, Hercules, or Ceres, so univer- sally honoured in this country at a later period, about the fifth century b.c, nor any trace of a head indi- cating the coins of the Roman ages. This I think is strong evidence of the antiquity of the early inhabi- tants, derived from their coins ; the bas-reliefs afford a similar evidence. 256 CHAPTER XII. Gule-Hiss(2 Ovassy — A large Lake — Ancient River Calbis — Extensive Plains-i-Carreeuke — Its Bazaar — Price of Cattle — Customs of the People — Denizlee — Its Inhabitants — Change of Law — Laodiceia — HierapoUs — Return to Smyrna. May I'dth. — After winding through a series of moun- tain-tops ^ slightly raised above the plain we 'had tra- versed, we suddenly arrived at an extensive and culti- vated country, bounded by Mount Cadmus or Baba- dah on the north. This large and highly productive district is called Gule-hissa Ovassy, or ' Rose-castle Valley,' which is left entirely blank on all our maps. I already observe much cultivation, several rivers, and many villages dotted over the wide extent of country before us. Hoomarhoosharry . — We have moved twenty-five miles northward, and have made but little apparent progress over this extensive valley, which all bears the same name. Immediately over the brow of a little hill, on leaving our tent, we were surprised at finding a vil- lage, and before it a highly picturesque and extensive GULE-HISSi OVASSY. 257 lake, into which ran out a promontory, terminated by a craggy rock, upon which appeared to be some ruins of a castle ; this may have given the name to the whole district ; the lake is called Gule-hissa Gouluh. A few huts at the foot of the' castle-rock are called Oloo- boonar-cooe, meaning ' Dead-water Village.' Skirting the lake, close under the cliff of the mountains, we found large covered sheds, in which is held the great market or bazaar ; this spot was called Bazaar-cooe. In the burial-grounds around were many remains of columns, pedestals, and sculptured white marble, but all in a late and not pure style. I copied the following inscription from a pedestal : AYKIACWKPATOY APnCIWTHIAIA HAIAICKHMNH MHC€N€KeN * * Translation " Lycia, [the daughter ?] of Socrates, to her own dear child, for the sake of remembrance." 258 PHRYGIA. In about an hour we crossed a considerable river, running toward the north from the range of moun- tains to the south-east, and continued our way over a plain of rich soil, entirely cultivated with corn, which was just springing out of the ground. About fifteen miles on our way the soil became lighter, and was filled with stones of igneous rocks. For the next ten miles we entered quite a different region ; barren hills, which we crossed, protruded into this part of the valley, while the river wound around their bases. The whole of these were quite distinct from the high mountains of lime- stone rising above them, and had all been deposited at their feet amidst running waters ; the same power is now again washing them away, although they consist of rolled fragments of volcanic stones, cemented strongly together with a deposit of lime. This pudding-stone rock stands out in most grotesque forms, and often in thin shelves irom the face of the rocks, upon which our road ran. Beyond these rocks were a series of barren hills, the arid soil not even producing a tree. A few bushes of the little oak-shrub are all that find root on this sandy district, but on our left beyond the river, whose course we still followed toward the north, the soil was .apparently good, and green with corn-fields. A considerable and permanent stream crossed our road on its way to the river in the plain. This great river, which rises in the south-east, is, I find, the ancient Calbis, the modern DoUomon-chi, which we had crossed GULE-HISS^ OVASSY. 259 with such difficulty above a hundred, miles below, and within ten miles of its mouth. This village of Hoomarhoosharry stands upon the plain, or rather on a bay out of the great plaiji, and has the peculiarities of such agricultural places. The moun- tainous character of the houses has changed, and mud walls and ditches have supplanted the fences of trees and thorns. Flat-topped mud houses, and a number of poles for drawing water from the deep wells, were the features of this little village, in which all pur wants were soon supplied with fowls, eggs, and milk. I was amused at seeing here, as I had formerly done in the northern parts of Anatolia, agricultural implements of the most ancient forms retained in use — " the threshing instrument having teeth," mentioned by Isaiah*, and the plough and carts described by the earliest classic writers. Rising from the plain, at the foot of the surrounding hills, was the village of Tourtakar, and about half way up the craggy mountain were some ruins of an ancient city. We were told that several marble sarcophagi and columns, used now at the mouth of the wells, had been brought from the " old castles," but that all the build- ings had fallen down. We could see the ruins of a city, with extensive walls, high up in the mountain, but the intense heat of the weather and the fatigue of travelling made us satisfied -v^ith this information, and we arranged to proceed on our route at two o'clock in the morning. * See Appendix to my Journal of 1838. S2 260 PHRYGIA. May 20th. — Although we have travelled all day, we have only reached this place, a distance of thirty-five miles, and have just light left to enable us to review the whole line of our route. The tent is pitched at the northern end of this wonderful valley, or rather ele- vated plain ; for I find we are still higher than the Yeeilassy of Satala-cooe : the thermometer indicates an altitude of above five thousand feet. Looking toward the south, the plain is bounded by the range of snow mountains which forms the barrier of Lycia, running from Dsedala to the Taurus range in Pamphylia. On the right is another fine snow-capped range, from Cad- mus at our back, and extending as far as Moolah in the south-west*. On the left are the high craggy cliffs among which the Calbis takes its rise, and behind which lies Pamphylia. The high lands within these mountain-chains form a part of Phrygia. Soon after leaving Hoomarhoosharry, which we did by moonlight this morning, we passed the village of Yoo- mahoodas, situated at the foot of some stupendous cliffs, under which our road lay for two or three hours. The eagles were soaring around their nests, and the singular * In my map, the coast of which is made from the chart just re- ceived by the Admiralty, a great change -will be observed near the ancient Cnidus. By the ancient survey the gulf is found to extend above twenty miles further eastward than hitherto known, and the isthmus was equally erroneous in its form. In consequence of this discovery. Moolah is found to be near to the sea, and I should suggest that it is the site of the ancient Pedassis. GULE-HISS^ OVASSY. 261 cackling of the red-ducks, which also build in the lof- tiest peaks of the rocks, often attracted our attention to these giddy heights ; the call of the partridge was fre- quent in the little tufts around us. Long before daylight the plain on our left was alive with the yokes of oxen dragging the plough, and a kind of rake, which seems to be used here instead of the bunch of thorns more general in the country; this probably arises from the scarcity of trees, for the whole plain produces nothing but the wild pear, which is dotted over the land, afford- ing little shade, but forming a good post for the cattle. In every direction along this extensive flat, we saw lines of people travelling in the cool of the morning, mostly upon asses, toward one point, which was also our destination, — the village of Carreeuke. At this place is held a great bazaar : thousands of gaily dressed people were assembled under and around two immense covered sheds ; all seemed busied with their sales and purchases. The gay-coloured shoe-mart and the beau- tiful carpets and rugs were the most striking features. The women in this valley, although Turks, do not veil themselves ; a number were assembled under some trees, away from the bustle of the fair, and in the only shade that we saw; under this we proposed to bait and have our breakfast. I feared that a command from ouf Cavass was the cause of the women quitting the shade, for our convenience, but on inquiry I found that a woman who lived in an adjoining hut or shed claimed this shade for her customers, for whom she made coffee, 262 PHRYGIA. and took charge; of their horses. We therefore pur- chased from her some firewood and eggs, and with a present amply repaid her for the use of the scanty shade of a few wild pear-trees. The authority of the Cavass kept the wondering people at a distance, otherwise we should have been surrounded by the hundreds who passed us on, their, way from the market. We spoke with some few of these, asking ordinary questions connected with their voca- tions, and I was surprised to find that the beautiful little cattle used for ploughing were sold at so low a price ; four-year-old oxen, fat enough to kill, were purchased for eighty, ninety, or a hundred piastres ; the latter price being less than a pound of our money. A cow and calf were sold for one hundred and fifty piastres, and excellent horses for two hundred and fifty. The Turks often dispose of their things by auction, and this sale has a peculiarity unknown to us : the lot is put up, and competition ensues, the last bidder being the purchaser : but he gives only the price offered by the preceding bidder, his further advance merely indicating his anxiety to possess the lot. The tenure on which the land is held by the cultivator is by no means op- pressive ; one-seventh of the produce is claimed by the governor of the district, as satisfaction for the rent, tax, and all charges whatsoever. Our European costume was not here the novelty I expected ; in the fair were two or three Greeks similarly attired ; they were dealers in leeches, and ,the singular- GULE-HISS^ OVASSY. 263 ity of their trade deserves notice. The introduction of strangers, and especially of intelligent Greeks, may hereafter add to our knowledge of these hitherto un- visited parts. Three or four years ago the trade in leeches was scarcely known, except for the use of the village ; this inhabitant of the swamp has now become an important contributor to the revenue of the Sultan. Two years ago I met an Italian collecting and shipping them from Adalia, undisturbed by any law : from that time the privilege of buying them from the peasants has been farmed out by the Sultan, and several com- panies of merchants in Constantinople purchase certain districts for the year, and send agents round to buy up the collections at such prices as he may agree upon with the people. The agent here said that his employers had given a sum equal to fifteen thousand pounds for this district, which I found extended over almost the whole track we had traversed. How strange that two such important trades as that in leeches and gall-nuts should have their origin in such minute productions of the animal world ! Many vessels are freighted to America and all parts of Europe with leeches only, and in almost every steamboat I have observed that a great part of its cargo consisted of these animals, which are the constant care of the merchants accompanying them, as they frequently require ventilation in the hold of the vessel. The trade is a great speculation, and the calculation is made upon the loss of an immense pro- portion of the stock. The capture, transport, and cal- 264 PHRYGIA. culated mortality bring to my mind the treatment of the Negroes. In my former Journal I attempted to describe the peculiarities of a Turkish market ; the animation and gaiety of the scene can scarcely be over-drawn. The present one had the additional eflFect of animals grazing for a mile around in every direction — camels, horses, and asses. I should estimate the number of the latter useful animals (for almost every man had his ass) at not less than two thousand] the camels generally bore merchandize for sale. At noon a crier proclaimed the market to be ended, and all the people gradually de- parted ; some to very distant places, but most to the various villages skirting this extensive plain. For some distance round the village of Carreeuke, as well as built into the walls of its mosques, were many sculptured remains and fragments of inscriptions, but all appeared to be of a late Greek date ; some had patterns showing a fanciful taste, but not of a simple or pure age. I copied the two following from the wall of the mosque : MOYAniONZ NWNpCYIONKYPCINA TPYWNAM€rANANTW NIANONAPXI€PEATHCA OIAEXEIAIAPXHCANTA KAI FENOM ENON ERA XONCHEIPHCnPtOTHC OYAniACrAAATWNEN nACINnPWTONTHCnO GULE-HISS^ OVASSY. 265 AEWCTEKAITHCEHAPXE ACTON €Y€Pr€TH NTH C n ATPI AOCH BOYAH KAIO AHMOC/TT^HNJANACTA CINnOIHCAJMENHC ANTWNIACAPICTHCAA AlAAHCTHCErrONHCAYTOY EKTtONIAIWN * MOYNANIZAnOA AOZnAEYlOY NHAnAIXOIAAAH .ANOI HEPrAZIATnNBAEXlN t May 2%th, Smyrna. — I have neglected my Journal during the last five days, for my route has been pre- cisely that of my former journey, passing down the valley of the Cogamus to Philadelphia, Sardis, and on to Cassabar. The season, although somewhat later, afibrded the same display of fruit and flowers ; the corn was falling to the sickle, and the flowers fading to seed. The caravans were again travelUng by night to avoid the heat of the day, a mode which we are in some degree compelled to adopt, by starting at two o'clock each morning. Passing over a coujitry by night de- prives the traveller of the pleasure of observation, and substitutes fatigue ; on this account alone I was rejoiced at the termination of a journey so pleasurable in itself, and promising to afford me subjects of high interest for research and reflection to the end of my life. * The inscription records a donation made to the Gods and the People by Zeuxis, son of Zeuxis. t " The trade of the Dyers crowns this Heroum." 272 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. DiscoTeries derived from the elucidation of the Lycian Inscriptions — Instructions for future Travellers — Lists and Examination of Coins — List of Rants collected during the Journey. During the progress of the former part of this volume through the press, my friend Mr. Daniel Sharpe has furnished me with some interesting results arising from his examination of my Lycian inscriptions. The short time that has elapsed since these have been in his hands would not allow of a more perfect elucidation ; but the discoveries are of so interesting a nature, as connected with the subject of this work, that I shall enumerate some of the leading features bearing upon history and geography, although I well know that still more will ere long be revealed. I must refer the reader to the interesting .communication from Mr. Sharpe, forming Appendix B. The Lycian characters appear at present to be pe- SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 273 culiar to the province*; they include nearly all those letters which are considered to have formed the original Greek alphahet ; these may have been borrowed from the early Greeks, or both nations may have derived them from a common source. The later additions to the Greek alphabet are not found in the Lycian, but that alphabet has several peculiar characters, com- pleting the series of long and short vowels which are found in most of the Eastern languages. The language of the inscriptions resembles the Zend, or ancient Persian, more nearly than any other with which we have the means of comparing it ; but it also contains words of Semitic origin ; these have not af- fected the structure of the language, which is thoroughly Indo-Germanic : the vicinity of the country of Syria readily accounts for some mixture of the language of that people in the Lycian. It may be remembered, that in my Journal I have frequently noticed peculiarities in the arts of the early inhabitants, and pointed out parallels in the Persepo- * In the Supplement to Walpole's Travels, are published some in- scriptions copied by Mr. Cockerell on the Coast of Lycia, in the cha- racters of that country, and one said to have been copied by Captain Beaufort in Caria. This has been used by some continental philolo- gists as an evidence of the language having extended over that district also. I have received a letter from Captain Beaufort since my return to England, in which he says, " I have at length discovered in my old journals the place of the inscription printed in Mr. Walpole's book, and I am happy to tell you that it was at Telmessus, and therefore really in Lycia.'" T 274 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER, litan sculptures : this connection is further borne out by history. Herodotus says, in speaking of the time of the Trojan war (book i. c. 4), "It is to be observed, that the Persians esteem Asia, with all its various and barbarous inhabitants, as their own peculiar possession, considering Europe and Greece as totally distinct and unconnected." Again, in book iv. c. 12, we find about the same period (during the reign of Ardyis), that " the Greeks had no settlement in Asia Minor." The Greek writers called the country in question by the general name of Lycia, which, although found seve- ral times in the Greek part of the inscription on the obelisk at Xanthus, does not occur in the Lycian part of the same inscription, where the people are called Tramilae ; for this we might be in some degree prepared by Herodotus, who says that they were formerly called Termelse. Stephanus Byzantinus calls them Termilse and Tremilae. Being enabled to read the characters, we find that the country consisted of two states or people, the Tra- melse and the Trooes ; and many coins bearing the name of the city of the latter people are given in the Plates to this work. I feel quite certain, from the geo- graphical position and importance of the city called by the Greeks Tlos, that this was the ancient city of the Trooes : the frequent change of the P to a A is known to all conversant with the Greek language. We thus have the capital of the northern portion of Lycia named after the Trooes, while the city called by the Greeks SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 275 Xanthus was the metropolis of the Tramelae in the south. Reviewing the country with these new ideas, I might almost separate the cities of these former people from those built by the colonists from Greece at an after period, probably not earlier than a century before the time of Herodotus. To do this I should select only those places in which I have observed features in art peculiar to the earliest inhabitants, for in many the whole design of the city is purely Greek, although the surrounding rocks afforded natural facilities for excava- tions, of which the Lycians always availed themselves. I find either coins or mention in the inscriptions, of almost the whole of this diminished number of the ancient cities, as well as of several others, whose total destruction or great change of name by the after inha- bitants, prevent their recognition. We find the names of Troouneme (Tlos), Pinara, Mere (Myra), Ga^aga (Gagse), andTrabala: also the names of Erecle, Pe- dassis, perhaps of Xenagora and Kopalle. To the latter city belong two-thirds of the coins collected, and many of them were obtained in the neighbourhood of the city called by the Greeks Xanthus. I should con- jecture that Kopalle may have been the ancient name of this city, but I know no grounds for the supposition beyond this circumstantial evidence. Stephanus Byzan- tinus states in his Geography that the former name of Xanthus was Arna. I see also traces of these early people in the cities called by the Greeks Calynda, Tel- t2 276 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. messus, Massicytus, Antiphellus, and Limyra, and in the tombs near Cadyanda, In the funereal inscriptions copied from the monu- ments in these cities, all the pedigrees of the deceased, with one exception, are derived from the mothers : the exception is on the tomb of the Greek copied at Li^ myra, and he was evidently a foreigner, from having his monument inscribed in both languages. This beauti- fully confirms the relation of the custom in the follow- ing passage by Herodotus (book i. ch. 73). " They have one distinction from which they never deviate, which is peculiar to themselves : they take their names from their mothers, and not from their fathers. If any one is asked concerning his family, he proceeds imme- diately to give an account of his descent, mentioning the female branches only." From the inscription upon the obelisk-monument at Xanthus we obtain the date of a period at which the language was still used ; it records a decree of the king of Persia, therein styled by his title the Great King of Kings ; and it also alludes to Harpagus, the general of Cyrus the Great. It will be remembered, that Har- pagus was a person entrusted with the confidence of Astyages, the grandfather of Cyrus, which is recorded in the interesting account of his being employed by As- tyages to destroy the infant Cyrus, and the horrible cru- elty of his bemg made to feast upon his own butchered son, ten years after the birth of Cyrus. Stifling his. revenge for a long period, he at last betrayed Astyages SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 277 and his country into the hands of Cyrus, who was then king of Persia. We afterwards read in Herodotus (book i. ch. 177) that, " whilst Harpagus was engaged in the conquest of the Lower Asia, Cyrus himself con- ducted an army against the upper regions, of every part of which he became master." I have in a former part of this work quoted the account given by Hero- dotus of the conquest of Xanthus by Harpagus. At the time of writing his history (about 450 b.c), he says, " of those who now inhabit Lycia, calhng themselves Xanthians, the whole are foreigners, eighty families ex- cepted." These foreigners I suppose to have been the Greeks, whose works show their occupation of the country for many centuries afterwards. Amongst the most gratifying results arising from the examination of these inscriptions, is the assistance they give in rendering the poems of Homer more intelligible. In the Iliad we read of Pandarus being a chief coming from Lycia, and of his being " the best bow in Lycia," thus connecting him with that country. In the second book he is named among the allies of Troy, as leading Troes into the field from Zeleia, at the foot of Mount Ida. Hitherto this has appeared inconsistent, and Strabo tells us that before his time a certain Demetrius had written thirty books upon this supposed error in Homer, and Strabo concludes by allotting a part of the Troad near Mount Ida to the kingdom of Pandarus. How clearly the whole of this is now explained, by continuing to style Pandarus a chief of Lycia, whose 278 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. country was Troas, while Sarpedon was also chief of Lycia, from Xanthus ! Probably the evident difficulty, and consequent confusion, in the geography of Homer, arising from two people of the same name of Trooes, occasioned his calling the river in the plains of Troy the Xanthus, and explaining that the people called it Scamander, but the gods Xanthus. At present but one river flows through each of these districts. In Lycia the colour of the waters alone would testify to the cor- rectness of the name *, but inscriptions found in the city, upon its banks, confirm it. The ancient name of this river was Sirbe, which is a Persian word meaning ' sand-colour,' or Xanthus f. I shall conclude this volumCj which I trust may be instrumental in inducing other travellers to pursue the researches into the history of this interesting portion of the world, with mentioning a few objects deserving their attention. I should point out the valley imme- diately beyond Hoozumlee as likely to contain mo- numents hitherto unvisited. I saw at a distance an obelisk, which may be inscribed; it probably stood * My servant, who had not the most distant idea of the ancient name of the river, in speaking to one of his Greek companions while crossing the stream, used the word Xanthus. I asked of what he was speaking ; he replied, that he was speaking of the colour of the water. t Bochart's Geography, vol. i. chap. 6. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 279 near the frontier of the country. The cities of Cragus and Corydalla may no doubt be discovered where I suggest them in the map ; I have ascertained that they are not to be found in other districts where I sought them. The city supposed to be Trabala should by all means be examined, as it was one built by the earliest people. The north-east end of the valley of Cassabar may probably contain another city. The long inscrip- tion upon the obelisk at Xanthus should be recopied, paying particular attention to the portion written in the Greek language, for copying which a scaffold or ladder will be required ; and, if power could be obtained, the fragment upon the ground should be turned over, as the commencement of the inscription is to be expected upon the side now facing the earth : this is of particular im- portance, as if it should prove to be identical with the decree which follows immediately in Greek, there would be materials for a good understanding of the Lycian language. The inscription in the Lycian language, which I have partly copied at Antiphellus, is well worth recopying, as the subject is not funereal but historical. 280 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. COINS COLLECTED DURING THE JOURNEY. In each place where I obtained coins during my travels, I wrapped them in separate packets. The examination of the contents of these may not only afford information as to the names of the ancient sites of cities, but may be of historical use in showing by the coinage the con- nection of various cities and nations at different ages by commerce or conquest. IDIN. (TRALLES.) By far the greatest number are of the Byzantine and Christian ages ; many Roman, and Greek coins of the age of Alexander. I obtained one of Alexandria Troas, and a denarius of Julius Caesar. NASLEE. Byzantine, Roman, and a few earlier Greek coins of Pergamus and Aphrodisias. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 281 KARASOO. FROM THE NEIGHBOURING RUINS OF APHHODISIAS. The great bulk are of the Byzantine age ; I have also the coins of Aphrodisias (Gallienus) — two of Plarasa — Attuda in Phrygia (Commodus) — Laodiceia — Pixo- darus, king of Caria — and Syrian coins of Antiochus. ARAB HISSJl. (ALABANDA.) Byzantine, and the coins of Philadelphia, Alabanda, and of Magnesia-ad-Maeandrum. DEMMEERGE-DERASY. (ALINDA.) Amongst many Byzantine coins are those of Maxi- minus — Tripolis in Caria — Antiocheia in Caria — two of Miletus — ^Antigonus Gonatas, king of Macedon — Ala- banda (Caracalla) — and five of Alinda. (Plate XXXV- Nos. 8 and 9.) MELLASSA. (MYLASA.) Many Greek coins of Caria — some of Mylasa, in the time of Severus. (Plate XXXV. Nos. 4 and 5.) ESKY HISSi. (STRATONICEIA.) Greek coins of Rhodes, and two of Stratoniceia. (Plate XXXV. No. 11.) MOOLAH. Many Byzantine — some Roman — Hadrian, of Eume- nia in Phrygia. (Plate XXXV. No. 12.) Otacilia Severa, 282 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. of Perge in Pamphylia — Antiochus of Syria — Cyzicus — Pergamus in Mysia — Cassander, king of Macedon — Rhodes — Halicarnassus — two of Stratoniceia — and nu- merous uncertain Lycian coins. MACRY. (TELMESSUS.) Many Rhodian coins, found along the south coast of Caria, the ancient Persea, nine silver and four copper — Side in Pamphylia — several Ptolemies — two of Apa- mea in Phrygia — three of Massicytus — two of Cragus — Limyra — two uncertain (Plate XXXIV. Nos. 3 and 4) — Coressus in Ceos (Plate XXXIV. No. 1) — and many uncertain Lycian coins. HOORAHN. (MASSICYTUS?) Uncertain Lycian coins. DOOVERE. (TLOS.) Tlos (Plate XXXIV. No. 12) and Massicytus (Plate XXXIV. No. 17). MINARA. (PINARA.) Numerous Lycian coins — ^four of Pinara (Plate XXXIV. Nos. 13 and 14)— Cragus (Plate XXXIV. No. 10)— three of Rhodes — three of Antiochus — and two of Ptolemies. DELTA OF XANTHUS. Ancient coins with Lycian characters (Plate XXXIV. Nos. 5, 6, 7 and 8). SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 283 PATARA. Coins very numerous ; many Roman and uncertain Lycian, among them those of Tlos — Myra (Plate XXXIV. No. 9)— Trabala (No. 11)— Antoninus Pius, of Corinth — Augustus (Egypt) — Ptolemies — two of An- tiochus (Syria) — and one of Cos. ALMALEE. Many coins of the time of the Roman emperors. FROM THE HIGH LANDS SOUTH OF DENIZLEE. Many Byzantine — Aphrodisias — Attuda (Dpmitia) — Eumenia (Hadrian) (Plate XXXV. Nos. 10, 11 and 12) — Laodiceia — and some of the age of Alexander. 284 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAP3:ER. LIST OF RARE OR INEDITED COINS IN PLATE XXXIV. No. Places to which the Coins belong. Where found. 1. Coressus in Ceos Telmessus. 2. Uncertain Smyrna. 3. Presumed Lycian Telmessus. 4. Presumed Lycian Telmessus. 5. Kopallcj Lycian Valley of Xanthus. 6. Uncertain Fornas. 7. Troouneme (Tlos) Valley of Xanthus. 8. Erecle (Heracleia) Valley of Xanthus. 9. Myra Patara. 10. Cragus Pinara. 11. Trabala Patara. 12. Tlos Tlos. 13. Pinara Pinara. 14. Pinara Pinara. 15. Presumed Lycian Telmessus. 16. Massicytus Telmessus. 17. Massicytus Ties. 34 "lol" 10* liife i& M M M ^ Drawn &• Engraved by Hftnry A . Ogy. John Murray, London, 1841. 35 M J^ Dre-trn ft Engraved by Honry ft. Ojy. John Murray, London, 1841, SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER, 285 LIST OF RARE OR INEDITED COINS IN PLATE XXXV. No. Places to which the Coins belong. "Where found. 1. Cragus ........•••• Telmessus. 2. Limyra . Telmessus. 3. Aiycanda, Gordian Arycanda. 4i Mylasa Mellassa. 5. Severus ' Mellassa. 6. Uncertain Mellassa. 7. Stratoniceia Stratoniceia. 8. Alinda Demmeerge-derasy. 9. Alinda Demmeerge-derasy. 10. Uncertain — Aphrodisias ? . . Country S.E* of M.Gadmus. 11. Attuda (Domitia) Ditto- 12. Eumenia (Hadrian) Ditto. 286 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. A LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED BY THE AUTHOR, DURING HIS TOUR, BETWEEN THE MONTHS OF FEBRUARY AND JUNE, 1840. N.B. — Those to which an aslerisk is affixed are new species, and will he found described at the end. DICOTYLEDONES v. EXOGEN^. Ranunculace^. Clematis cirrhosa, L. Anemone coronaria, L. apennina, L. Adonis aestivalis, L. Ficaria verna, Huds. Bebbebide^. Bongardia Rauwolfii, C. A. Mey. Papaveeace^. Papaver somniferumj L. orientale, L, Argemone, L. Glaucium flavum, Crantz. Roemeria hybrida, DeCand. Hypecoum procumbens, L. FuMAKIACEiE. Corydalis tuberosa, DeCand. Fumaria capreolata, L. Furaaria parviflora. Lam. Cbucifeb^. Erophila vulgaris, DeCand. Alyssum fulvescensj Sm. Fibigia clypeata, Med. Aubrietia deltoidea, DeCand. Arabis verna, Br. Cardamine hirsuta, L. Diplotaxis tenuifolia, DeCand. Brassica Rapa, L. ClSTINE^. Cistus cymosus. Dun. salvifolius, L. Helianthemum arabicum, Pers. VlOLABIE^. Viola tricolor o, DeCand. Cabyophylle^. Silene Behen, L. vespertina, L. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 287 Silene orchidea, L. linoides, Otth. Dianthus prolifer, L. Holosteum umbellatum, L. Linum angustifolium, Sm. hirsutum, L. Gebaniace^. Erodium cicutarium, Sm. ciconium, Willd. gruinum, Willd, Geranium tuberosum, L. molle^ L. lucidum, L. RUTACB^. Ruta bracteosaj DeCand. Rhamne^. Rhamnus oleoides, L. Paliurus aculeatus. Lam. EUFHORBIACE^. Euphorbia dulcis, L. rigida, Bieb. Mercurialis annua, L. Ricinus communis, L. Terebinthace^. Pistacia Lentiscus, L. Leguminos^. Anagyris foetida, L. Calycotome villosa, lAnk. Anthyllis tetraphylla, L. Lotus creticus, L. Melilotus sulcata, Desf. Trifolium fragiferum, L. Trifolium spumosum, L. subterraneum, L. procumbens, L. HymenocarpuS circinatus, Savi. Medicago orbicularis, All. uncinata, Willd. minima. Lam. marina, L. Psoralea bituminosa, L. Colutea arborescens, L. Coronilla iberica, Bieb. minima, L, Faba vulgaris, Mcench. Vicia onobrychoides, L. polyphyUa, Desf. hybrida, L. Lathyrus Cicera, L. angulatus, L, Pisum fulvum, Sm. Lupinus hirsutus, L. Cercis Siliquastrum, L. Rosacea. Poterium spinosum, L. Tamabiscine^e. Tamarix gallica, L. CUCURBITACE^. Bryonia dioica, L. Pabonychie^. Paronychia argentea. Lam. Crassulace^. Umbilicus pendulinus,DeCaw£?. Umbellifeb^. Scandix australis, L. 288 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. Caucalis daucoides, L. Tordylium officinale, L. Smyrnium perfoliatum, L. RUBIACE^. Asperula arvensis, L. Galium brevifolium, Sm. Valebiane^. Valeriana Dioscoridis, Sm. Composite. Tussilago Farfara, L. Inula Candida, DeCand. limoniifolia, Lindl, Asteriscus aquaticus, Mmnch. Anthemis arvensis, L. rosea, Sm. Achillea cretica, DeCand. Chrysanthemum segetum, L. coronarium, L. Senecio squalidus, L. Gnaphalium luteo-album, L, Helichrysum angustifolium, DeCand, Calendula arvensis, L. Carduus crispus, L. Centaurea montana, L. Jacea, L. Tragopogon porrifolius, L. CAMPANULACEiE. Campanula drabifolia, Sm. SxYRACEiE. Styrax officinale, L. OLEACEiE. Phillyrea latifolia, L. Jasmine^e. Jasminum fruticans, L. APOCTNEiE. Vinca minor, L. CUSCDTE^. Cuscuta epithymum, L. BORAGINEJS. Myosotis sylvatica, Hoffm. Lithospermum orientale, Willd. Anchusa italica, Retz. tinctoria, L. undulata, L. Cynoglossum officinale, L. Mattia staminea, Rcem. et Schult. Onosma echioides, L. Echium plantagineum, L. creticum, Sm. SOLANACE^. Mandragora officinarum, Ber- tol. Hyoscyamus niger, L. agrestis. Kit. aureus, L. Vebbascine^, Verbascum Thapsus, L. SCROPH ULAKIN F,M. Veronica cuneifolia *. triphyllos, L. grandiflora*. Cymbalaria, Vahl. Linaria pelisseriana, DeCand. Anarrhinum bellidifoliumjDe*/". SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 289 Scrophularia peregrina, L. • canina, L. OROBANCHEiS. Orobanche caryophyllacea, Sm. LABIATiB. Teucrium regium, Schreb. Lavandula Stsechas, L. Lamium moschatum. Mill. purpureum, L. Phlomis lycia *. Salvia triloba, L. Horminum, L. PaiMULACEiE, Anagallis arvensis a et /8, L. Cyclamen persicum, L. PliANTAGINEiE. Plantago cretica, L. Chenopodiace^. Salicomia iruticosa, L. P0LYGONE.E. Rumex bucephalophorus, L. Acetosa, L. El^eagne^. Elseagnus angustifolia, L, ThYMELjE^. Daphne collina, L, argentea, Sm, Passerina hirsuta, L. Laurine^. Laurus nobilis, L. Platane^e. Platanus orientalis, L. Balsamiflu^. Liquidambar ori^ntale. Mill. CuPULIFERiE. Quercus BaUota, Desf. coccifera, L. ^gilops, L. Conifers. Pinus Pinea, L. carica * Laricio, Lam. Cupressus sempervirens a et 13, L. Juniperus communis, L. MONOCOTYLEDONES v. ENDOGEN^. Gbamine^. Briza maxima, L. Stipa tortilis, Desf. ^gilops ovata, L. MELANTHACEiE. Merendera Bulbocodium, Ram. LlLIACE^. Fritillaria Meleagris, L. Lloydia grseca, Endl. Gagea spathacea, Roem. & Schult. Hyacinthus orientalis, L. Muscari moschatum, Willd. 290 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. Muscari comosum, Willd. botryoides, Willd. Bellevalia romana, Lapeyr, Scilla bifoliaj L. Allium nigrum, L. neapolitanum, Cyr. triquetrum, L. junceum, Sm. Aloe vulgaris, Sm. Ornithogalum umbellatum, L. nanum, Sm. Myogalum nutans. Link. Asphodelus ramosus, L. Asparagus acutifolius, L. Smilace^. Smilax aspera, L. Ruscus aculeatus, L. DlOSCOREACE^. Tamus cretica, L. Amaryllide^. Narcissus Tazetta, L. iRIDEiE. Iris florentina, L. Sisyrinchium, L. tuberosa, L. Trichonema Columns, Rei- chenb. Gladiolus communis, L. segetum. Kit. Orchide^. Orchis papUionacea, X(. provincialis, Balb. longibracteata,, Biv. longicornis, Desf. Ophrys fusca. Link. Tenoreana, Lindl. mammosa, Desf. Ferrum-equinum, Desf. Serapias Lingua, L. cordigera, L. Aroide^. Arum Dracunculus, L. Arisarum vulgare, Schott. ACOTYLEDONES v. ACROGEN^. LyCOPODIACEjE. Lycopodium denticulatum, L. FiLICES. Polypodium vulgare, L. Ceterach officinarum, Willd. Cheilanthes odora, Sw. Adiantum Capillus Veneris, L. LiCHENES. Evernia prunastri, Ach. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 291 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE NEW SPECIES. Veronica cuneifolia. V. glanduloso-pubescens ; racemis axillaribus, segmentis caly- cinis oblongis obtusis corolla brevioribus, ovario suborbiculato scabro, foliis subsessilibus cuneatis inciso-crenatis, caule suf- fruticoso procumbente. Habitat in Lyciae rupibus ad Arycandum fluvium. Fruticulus procumbens, ramosissimus, V. saosatili parum major. Rami filiformes, purpurascentes, foliosi, fragiles, pube brevis- sima glandulosa vestiti. Folia opposita, brevissime petiolata, cuneata, inciso-crenataj coriacea, avenia, utrinque pubescentia, scabriuscula, subtus costa prominente subcarinata, 2-3 lineas longa, sesqui v. 2 lineas lata. Petioli pubescentes, vix lineam longi,^ latiusculi, suprk canaliculati^ subtus obtuse carinati, ima basi subconnati. Racemi in ramis solitarii, axillares, multiflori, pedunculati. Pedunculus folio longior, filiformisj glanduloso-pubescens, purpurascens, Bractece pedicellis ca- piUaribus longiores; inferiores inciso-crenatae, foliis consimiles; superiores subspathulatae, integerrimae. Calyx copiosiiis glan- duloso-pubescens, 4-partitus : segmentis oblongis, obtusis ; 2 anterioribus majoribus. Corolla F. saxatilis, cyanea ? calyce major: tubo brevissimo,violaceo: limbo 4-partito : laciniis ro- tundatis, integris, venulosis ; infimd duplo angustiore. Sta- mina corolla breviora : filamenta filiformia, glabra, violacea : anthercB subrotundae, biloculares, flavae. Ovarium compressum, orbiculare, aspere pubes'cens, integrum. Styliis capillaris, gla- ber, corollam superans. Stigma capitatum, exiguum. This is a very distinct and well-marked species, with the habit of V. saxatilis, but there is none with which it can be con- founded, and if introduced to our gardens it would prove an ■interesting addition to the rock-work. Its cuneiform, deeply crenate leaves, and rough pubescent fruit will serve to distin- guish it from saxatilis, as well as from every other shrubby species; u 2 292 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. Veronica grandiflora. V. annua, erecta, glanduloso-pubescens ; floribus solitariis, seg- mentis calycinis linearibus obtusis, coroM calyce triplo lon- giore : laciniis rhombeo-ovatis subunguiculatis, foliis infe- rioribus petiolatis ovatis crenatis; superioribus sessilibus pinnatifidis tripartitisve. Habitat in Cari^ ad Maeandrum fluvium, et prope Mylasam. Floret Martio. Radix fibrosa, annua. Caulis erectus, filiformis, simplex v, ramosus, copiose glanduloso-pubescens, purpurascens, bipolli- caris. Cotyledones adhuc persisteqtes, subreniformes, inte- gerrimse, petiolatae. Folia inferiora brevissime petiolata, ovata, obtusa, crenata, 3-5 lineas longa, utrinque pilis bre- vissimis articulatis, at raro glanduliferis, copiose vestita ; su- periora sessilia, pinnatifida v. tripartita : segmentis linearibus, obtusis, integerrimis; terminali majori, subspathulato. Flores in apice caulis axillares, solitarii, pedunculati. Pedunculi capiUares, copiose glanduloso-pubescentes^ foliis tripartitis ter longiores. Calyx copiose glanduloso-pubescens, 4-partitusi segmentis linearibus, obtusis ; 2 anterioribus majoribusr Co- rolla omnium maxima, diametro semuncialis et ultra, ^yanea ; tubo brevissimo, luteo : limbo profunde 4-partito : laciniis rhombeo-ovatis, obtusis, basi angustata lutea subunguicu- latis; anticd minore. Stamina corolla multoties breviora: filamenta gracilia, glabra, lutescentia: antherce cordato-ob- longae, obtusse, violacese. Ovarium subrotundum, glabrum, integrum. Styliis coroUa longior, capillaris, glaber, supeme incrassatus, subclavatus. Stigma parvnm, subcapitatum. Cap- sulam nondum vidi. A truly elegant little plant, well deserving of being added to the catalogue of ornamental annuals, from the size and beauty of its flowers. Its deeply pinnatifid and tripartite leaves, with entire linear or spathulate segments, will readily distinguish it SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 293 from the V. amcena of Steven, and from V.pumila, from Mount Hsemus, described and figured in the second volume of Dr. Clarke's Travels, at page 559. Phlomis lycia. P. fruticosa, ferrugineo-tomentosa ; foliis cordato-oblongis obtu- sisj verticillastris plurifloris, bracteis lanceolatis calycibusque mucronato-spinosis dense albo-lanatis, dentibus calycinis unci- natis, filamentis inappendiculatis. Habitat in Lycioe septentrionalis sylvis montosis. Buffrutex erectus, ramosus, pedalis, pube stellata rubiginosa un- dique dense tomentosus. 'Rami 4-anguli. Folia petiolata, cordato-oblonga, obtusa, crenata, rugoso-venosa, utrinque to- mento stellato copiose vestita, pollicem longa, semunciam lata ; floralia vix cordata. Petioli angusti, 3 lineas longi, supra canaliculati. Verticillastri terminales, pluri-(6-8)flori. Bracteee adpressae, lanceolatae, mucronato-spinosae, lana lon- gissimi molli alba dense vestitae. Calyces bracteis vix lon- gioresj extus albo-lanati : fauce pilosissiml : dentibus brevi- bus, subulatisj mucronato-spinosis, apice nudis, uncinatis. Co- rolla subuncialis, calyce vix duplo longior: tubo glabriusculo, inferne angustato, supernfe parum dilatato, intiis fascicuUs 5 pilorum aucto : fauce intus glabra : limbo extiis tomento fasciculato-ramoso flavicanti subadpresso vestito ; labia supe- rior e galeato, margine truncato, emarginato; ira/erwe longiore, trilobo ; laciniis lateralibus ovatis, obtusis, couduplicatis, supra glabris; intermedid orbiculata, integrS, supra glabr^, margine parum undulata. Mlamenta compressa, inappendi- culata, puberula. Antherce glabrae.. Stylus glaber. Stigma bifidum ; lobo superiore latiore, obtuso ; inferiore acutiusculo, parum longiore. This plant, Mr. Fellows informs me, is common in moun- tainous woods in the northern parts of Lycia. It is evidently nearly allied to the P- ferruginea of Tenore, but its lanceolate^ 294 supplementahy chapter. spinously iriucrona,te, woolly bractes, simple filaments, and sub- ulate, spinous, uncinate calyciiie teeth, essentially distinguish it from that species as well as from P. armeniaca. Firms paricd. P. foliis binis praelongis tenuissimis rectis margine denticulato- scabris: vaginis abbreviatis subintegris, strobilis ovato-ob- longis rectis laevigatis : squamis apice rhomboideis depressis truncatis rimulisque radiatis. Habitat in Cariae montibus. Arbor magna. Ramuli scabriusculi, fusci. Folia bina, erecta, recta, tenuissima, mucronata, nunc leviter tortilia, laete viridia, subtiis convexa, laevia, nitida, supra canaliculata, margine den- . ticulato-scabra, 6-7-pollicaria : vaginae 2-3 lineas longae, cy- lindraceae, fuscescentesj annulatim rugose, ore subintegro nudiusculo. Squama stipulares (folia primaria) lanceolatae, acuminatae, coriaceae, spadiceae, margine filamentoso-ciliatae, basi diu persistenti. Strobili ovato-oblongi, obtusi, recti, laevi- gati, nitidi, spadicei, 3-4 poUices longi, diametro 2-unciales : squamis apice depressis, rhomboideis, planiusculis, transverse subcarinatis, rimulis radiatim notatis, medio truncatis, areoM transverse elliptica cinerascenti umbilicatis.- I have ventured to propose this as a distinct species, although, from its near relationship to halepensis, I think it not unlikely that it may prove to be only a remarkable local form of that species. It is chiefly distinguished from halepensis by its much longer leaves, and larger cones, the apex of whose scales are broader, and marked with numerous radiating fissures. The leaves are double the length of those of the maritima of Lam- bert, and the cones are larger and more oblong. DAVID DON. APPENDIX. APPENDIX A. GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. The following inscriptions in themselves afford mate- rials for a separate work. They derive a peculiar inter- est from elucidating the customs, character, games, government, and language of the Ancients. For the translation and explanation of these inscriptions, the reader is indebted to the indefatigable research of Mr. Hermann Wiener. No. 1. — Page 8. — In the Valley of Caystrus. The names of Marcus Antonius joined to Greek cognomens are not unfrequent in inscriptions in this country.^ — Boeckh, 2767, 2785, 2811. The name of Nicephorus is also common. — Boeckh, 2835. TRALLES. No. 2.— Page 17. We know too little of the particulars in the administration of government and municipal affairs in Roman provinces to define the functions of Marcus Aurelius Arestus (?) with certainty. To 298 APPENDIX A. the office of Eirenarchos (line 4), according to the Schol. ad Aristoph. Ran, 1103, there belonged part of the guardianship of public peace and morals; it would then, along with that of Agoranomos (line 3), have been included in the functions of a Roman ^dilis; those of the Architamias (line 6) would corre- spond to the functions of the Quaestor; the title of Strategos (lines 4 and 5) was given to municipal as well as to Roman officers (J. Eckhel Doctr. Num. t. iv. p. 215). Arestus was also Bularchos (line 2), i. e. President of the municipal Council (the BovXi; or Decuriones), and Decaprotos (line 5 — see another in- scription published by Walpole, Travelsjii. p.541, Boeckh, 2639). The Ae/cairparoi, or, as Cicero (pro Roscio, c. 12) calls them, Decemprimi, are generally stated to have had no particular func- tions, but only enjoyed a superior rank in the municipal Council, of which they were a principal part, but no committee. The Gerusia, on the contrary (last line), Boeckh (2811) supposes to have been a committee chosen from the Council, as the Pry- tanis was at Athens. The names of BovXt], A7]fio';, Tepova-ia, to which we must take care not to attach the notions familiar to us from the Greek classics, are very often placed together on the monuments of Asia Minor ; and these corporations must have been very closely connected, as our inscription shows that they had but one secretary in common. To the HovXr) there seems to be ascribed in line 8 its common epithet KpanaTTj, In the following line the date of the above honorary decree may have been indicated ; for Uepeirioi} is the fourth month in the Syro- Macedonian calendar : Pereitas, however, is also the name of a person (Boeckh, 2770, 2771); that of Soterichus is not unfre- quent (Boeckh, vol. i. p. 725). Nos. 3 and 4.— Pages 18 and 19. The last two lines of the first : TlaXa/j,at,cnv efjuev veKvv ev6a raoviat<; afiapavTO. No. 5. — Page 19. No 6. — Upon a pedestal. i8' KAAYAIOY AlOrENOV^ This appears to have been surmounted by a statue of " Ti- berius Claudius Caesar Germanicus (the Emperor Claudius), consecrated by the People under the superintendence of Ti- berius Claudius Diogenes, son of Artemidorus, of the Roman tribus Quirina, who erected it at his own expense whilst he was Gymnasiarchos." Published by Boeckh, 2922, from Sherard, who must have seen the inscription in a more perfect state. No. 7- — Built into a wall. ^DZTEIMAPXOZ .JYNHHrHZmHZ /iZKAIXPHZT ^CAIPE 300 APPENDIX A. " Timarchus, a dealer, and Hegesippe his wife, thou and good one, farewell." No. 8.— Page 21.— At Keosk. No. 9.— Page 23.— At Sultan Hissa. The final word of the third line is to be read CYrFevrj akin. No. 10.— Page 25.— At Naslee. (TeTpa)/e« AeiXta, Tawrij? eiri/ypcKfirii; avriypa^ov aireredr) €POAEITH0EOIZZEBAZTOirrill HMl IXI KAITAANAAHMMATAAPIZTO KAHZAPTEM I AliPOYMOAOZZOZ*! AO AOSOZKAI«l>l AOnOAIZEPPEn IZTATH ZrOIN IXI TOZEPMAAPIZTOKAEOYZTOY APTEM I AilPOYKATATAZMOAOZZOY TOYGPES'ANTOZAYTOYAI A0H KA " To Aphrodite, the august Gods. The and the sub- structions (has consecrated), Aristocles Molossus, the son of Artemidorus, a lover of glory and a lover of his native town ; Hermes, son of Aristocles, the son of Artemidorus, superin- tending the work in pursuance of the will of Molossus, who had brought him up." Pubhshed by Boeckh (n. 2747), from Sherard's MS., who reads in the fifth line APIZTOKAEIOYZ, whilst in our copy there appears the common form ApiaroicXeovt. The word which ter- minates the fourth and begins the fifth line, has certainly the sense of epyeTrioTaTtjaavro';, but we give it unchanged from the original iranscript, as well as the letters at the end of the first and commencement of the second lines. No. 15. — Built into the south-east wall. EPMOrENHZEPMOrENOYZTOEniZTYAION KAITON En AYTOYKOZMONTni AH MX2I 302 APPENDIX A. "Hermogenes, the son of Hermogenes, [gives] the architrave, and the ornament upon it to the People." M -nOYTOEniZTYAION .JYKOZMONTniAHMfll Fragment of an inscription of amilar contents. No. 16. — In the south-east wall. ^^^EYZEBHZEYTYXHZZEBAZTOZAHMA^^^KHZ EZOYZI AZTOrvn ATOZTOBAnOAEAEI PM ENOZTOTPITON nATHPnATPIAOZANOVnATOZKAl^^ APXIEPEYZMEnZTOZAHMAPXIKHZEZOYZIAZ TOn PHTONVn ATOZAnOAEAEI FM ENOZA«l>POAEIZI EX2NTOIZ APXOYZINKAITHBOYAHKAirnAHMnXAIPEIN ElKOZHNYMAZKAIAIATHNEnnNYMONTHZnOAEilZGEONKAl AlATHNnPOZPflMAIOYZOIKEOTHTATEKAiniZTINHZOHNAI MENEniTHKATAZTAZEITHZBAZIAEIAZTHZHMETEPAZ eYZIAZAEKAIEYXAZAnOAOYNAIAIKAIAZKAIHMEIZAE THNTEEAEY0EPIANYMEINYAATTOMENTHNYnAPXOYZAN KAITAAAAAAEZYN n ANTAAI KAI AOnOZilN n APATX2N n POH MAN AYTOKPATOPflNTETYXH KATEZYN AYZEIN ETOI MilZ ^XONTEZYMIIN KAITAZH POZTOM EAAON EAR I AAZ ^EnPEZBEYONAYPHAIOrOEOAnPOZKAIONHZIMOZ EYTYXEITE " Emperor Caesar [names erased], the Pious and Happy, Augustus, in the third year of his tribunitial power and in his second Consulship, Consul Elect for the third time, the Father of his country. Proconsul, and [name erased] Supreme Pontiff, in the first year of his tribunitial power. Con- sul Elect : APHRODISIAS. 303 " To the Magistrates and the Senate, and the People of the Aphrodisians, greeting. " It was meet for you, on account as well of the Goddess that gave your city its name, as your relations with the Romans and your gbod faith, to rejoice at the establishment of our reign, and to offer the due sacrifices and prayers. And likewise we protect your liberty, which now is, and all other things [th^t are] right, which you have obtained of the Emperors before us, being willing to unite with you in advancing your hopes for the future also. Ambassadors were Aurelius [?], Theodorus and Onesimus. Farewell." Published and explained by Boeckh, Corp. Inscr., n. 2743. The erased names of the two princes, who held together the reign of the Roman empire, can be no other than those of Dio- cletian and Maximian ; and the date of the above letter which contains the answer of the princes to the congratulatory address sent from the Aphrodisians by Onesimus and Theodorus, is 286 after Christ. In this year the Princes, as the coins show us, had the titleS above mentioned, viz. DIOCLetianus AVGustus TRibunitiae Potestatis III. COnSul II., DESignatus III., Ponti- fex Maximus (which seems not to have been in our inscription). Pater Patriae, and MAXIMianus AVG. TR. P. COS. DES. P.M. P.P. The fact of the names being erased, is easily ex- plained by the hatred which the persecuted Christians bore to these emperors ; the next inscription will show that the Chris- tians had not long afterwards a strong influence in the manage- ment, of public affairs at Aphrodisias. No. 17.— Page 35. The barbarous form of avaivemBrj instead of avevecoOt], may be partly accounted for by the fact, that the diphthong at, was even by the Greeks sometimes pronounced like e. Vide Osann. Sylloge Inscript. p. 441. 304 APPENDIX A. No. 18.— Over the west gateway. YnEPYriEIACKAICtOTHPIACKAITIMHCKAINIKHC KAIAIWNIO¥AIAMONHCTWNAECnOTWNHMtON ^lOYAKWNCTANTIOYEYCEBOYCAHTHTOYCEBACTOYKAI- ^ JEn lAKYINTIEPWCMONATIOCOAIACHMOTATOCHEIONJ KAIAnOKPHTAPXWNTONJ ^NTH^JPA KAICYrrENEIKPHTWN^ " May fortune be favourable ! " For the good health, and the safety, and the honours, and the victory, and perpetual welfare of our lords : Flavins Julius Constantius, the Pious, the Never- Vanquished, Augustus and [name-erased] the most excellent and noble Caesar, Fl. Quintius Eros Monaxius [?], the most distinguished Governor, and one of the Cretarchae, has erected it on his own expense for the splendid Metropohs of the Tauropolitans, the relations of the Cretans." This inscription is published and explained by Boeckh (n. 2744), from Sherard's, Spanheim's, and Richter's manuscripts. The name erased is either that of Gallus, who fell a victim to Constantius, and was even after his death maltreated by him, or that of the famous emperor Julianus, whose name after his death was erased by the Christians. We are inclined to adopt the latter opinion, seeing that mention is made in the inscrip- tion of a relationship existing between the Cretans and the peo- ple of Aphrodisias. This was certainly the case in times long passed by, when this inscription was written (Herod. I. 172), and a revival like this was in the spirit of the age of Julianus. APHRODISIAS. 305 No. 19. — In the south-east wall. PKEIAAKAITAEi'E AIAAZAPIZTO HZANTOZEPMA APIZTOKAEOY OIIAIA>OMATOY SEATPOY To judge from their position, these two fragments formed part of one inscription, which probably recorded" some gift made toward building or ornamenting the theatre, the diazoma of which is mentioned in the last line. There seems to appear in it the same Hermes, son of Aristocles, whom our inscription 14. shows as concerned in a liberal donation to the Gods and the People of Aphrodisias. No. 20. — On the north side of the city. AMrAfAZHNI2N TOYYS'IKAEOYZ TOYYS'IKAEOYZ TOYYZEIZHNn NOrYS'lKAEOYZ APXIEPEQZMONO MAXUNKAIKATA AIKXINKAITAYPOKA " The troop of gladiators, convicts, and bull-baiters belonging to Zeno, the high-priest, son of Hypsicles, the son of Hypsicles, the son of Hypsicles, who was by birth the son of Zeno." Troops, or, to preserve the Roman appellation, which is pre- served in the Greek inscriptions, yamiZie^ of gladiators, are men- tioned in two other inscriptions of Asia Minor (Boeckh, 1511), as being kept by the Asiarchae, on whom it was incumbent, as X 306 APPENDIX A. well as on the High-priests, to amuse the public with games. Ours, it seems, is the only Greek inscription, bearing witness to the commonly known fact of convicts being employed as gla- diators. The bull-baitings {ravpoKaOa^jnai,, vide ChishuU Antt. As. p. 95), mentioned in the last line, were originally a Thessa- lian game, in Rome first exhibited by the Emperor Claudius (Sueton. vit. Claud., c. 21, Plin. H. N. viii. 45), and much liked at Ephesus and Smyrna. A very good representation of them we see in a bas-relief, brought from the latter city to Oxford (Marmora Oxon. ed. Chandler, p. 105. Iviii.) : unarmed horsemen, coming up at full speed with bulls, whom they try to hold down by the horns, not always of course successfully. The abbreviation TAYPOKA, which closes the inscription, may be interpreted into TavpoKaOairroiv, or ravpoKda^ioyv, the latter indeed less grammatical, but in keeping with the Kvvrf/eauov in Boeckh, Inscr. 1511. The gladiators were no adepts in the writing of Greek; and we may, therefore, without scruple translate Zrjvmv in the first line as if it were Ziyvajvo? ; the more so as the genitive apxiepecoAN] [I2]0HNAITAIZEKEINOYXEIPZINAAAAK[AI] [TEI M] AIZEZAI PETOIZTEI MHSH N Al M ETA [AETAYT] [Af] ENOM ENOZZYZTAPXHZTOZAYTH E[Y] [N]OIAKAIEniMEAEIAMETAZnOYAHZAn[A] ZHZKHAETAITnNHMEINAIAEPON TI2NTAKAAAIZTAKAIAPIZTAnOAEIT[EY] OMENOZENHMEINKAIAIATAYTAKAIAA[AA] TEMENnOAAAKIZKAITANYNEnAINO[YN] [T] EZTONANAPAKAIMAPTYPOYNTEZAY[TXl] S'HIZMATATOIZKYPIOIZAYTOKPAT[OP] [Z]INnEnOMAMENHrOYMENOIMEr[IZT] [A] ZKAI ANTAZI AZAMOI BAZAYTHFEN E[Ze] [AjlANTITHZnEPIHMAZEYNOIAZKAIOTI ONHMAZINIKANblZKAIKOnnnOAAHn^ [EjrENETOKAIAIEnPAZATOAXGHNAITONEN /»ZArX2NAnAPATOIZANTIOXEYZINIlZNO/i AEINHMAZOIKOeENnAPAYTOYANHNHZ^ Tb^^/iATAAIAYAYTAAEAOX0AITYXHArA[eH] EYXAPIZTHZAITIlMENANAPnEniTETHZIEPn TATHZBOYAHZKAITOYAAM H POTATOYAH MOY APOAEIZI EHN n EPITX2N n POH rOPEYM ENXIN TEIMHZAITEAYTONANAPIANTI2NANAZTAZEIKAI ElKONnNANAGEZEIENTilEniZHMOTATH x2 308 APPENDIX A. THZnATPIAOZTOnilEnirPA«l>HZOMENI2N TilNTEl MI2NTH Fl POrPAHTOYAETOYS'H ♦IZM ATOZn POrrOAIIlN lOYZVn APZAI AY TOTAZn APH MUNTEI M AZ EZTINAEKAinOAEITHZnOAEilNTXlNVnO rErPAMMENnNnEPrAMHNHNANTIOXE I2N KAIZAPEilN KOAXINUN KAI BOYAEYTHZ GH PAII2N KAI BOYAEYTHZAnOAAIlN I AT AYKHlNePAKQN KAI BOYAEYTHZM El AH ZinN n EZZI NOYNTII2N KAAYAIOnOAEITIlN EniMEAHeENTOZTilNTEIMnNZHNnNOZ TOYAnOAAXlN lOYTOYM EN AN APOYTOY AAEAOYAYTOY " the extraordinary, and for his lifetime Xystarches of the games [celebrated] in the colony of Antiocheia. Being a glorious and diligent Athlete, he advanced so far in glory as to be the first who fortunately carried off so great prizes, and so as to glorify along with each prize his most splendid native city, by proclamations and crowns ; but chiefly under Antoni- nus, so as to be not only crowned by his [the Emperor's] hands, but honoured also by extraordinary [gifts] . Having afterwards become Xystarches, he with the greatest benevolence and dili- gence, and all [possible] zeal, takes care of our interests, con- ducting himself as a very good and honourable citizen amongst us. And in regard to these and other things, we, praising the man and bearing him testimony, have often and at present sent decrees to our masters, the Emperors; being of opinion that there should be made to him veiy great [?] and corresponding returns for his benevolence towards us, and because he put himself to considerable expense and much trouble, and effected It was therefore decreed — May it be fortunate ! to render thanks unto Menander on the part both of the most worshipful Council and the most splendid APHRODISIAS. 309 People of the Aphrodisians, in consideration of the aforesaid points^ and to honour him by erecting statues and putting up images in the most conspicuous place of the city, his honours being recorded in the preamble of this decree, to the end that his honours amongst us may be perpetuated. " He is also a citizen of the under-mentioned cities, [that of the] Pergamenes, Antiocheians, Caesarean Colonists; and a Councilman of the Theraeans, and a Councilman of the ApoUo- niatae in Lycia [and in] Thracia, and a Councilman of the Milesians, Pessinuntians and Claudiopohtans. " There acted as superintendent in [conferring] these honours, his brother Zeno, son of Apollonius, the son of Menander." It is seldom that inscriptions copied from pedestals are trans- mitted to us entire, the upper hnes being commonly written on the projecting part of the stone, where they were less secure. Thus we do not know in what office or offices Menander, pro- bably at Aphrodisias, proved himself " extraordinary." The office of Xystarches, which he held at Antiochia, is mentioned in a few other Greek inscriptions (Gruter, p. 314, 1 ; Mu- rator, p. 650, 1 ; Boeckh, 1758, at Aphrodisias). The Xystus, i. e. a walk or arcade, being so essential a part of the Gymna- sium, the terms Xystarches and Gymnasiarches might be taken as synonymous ; it seems, however, that whilst the latter title conferred only the honour of a munificent patronage, the Xy- starches exercised a certain professional superintendence in the affairs of the gymnasium. The gymnasiarchia, being one of the municipal^i^u/'^i^, was commonly held for a Umited period (n. 6, but V. Boeckh, 2777)j and sometimes also by women (inscrip- tion from Mylasa, p. 68). The dignity of Xystarches, as we see from the inscriptions, was conferred by the Emperors on men who had distinguished themselves in the athletic profession, and was held for Ufe. Among the honours which Menander earned for himself and his native city, whose name, as we may conclude from Pindar's beautiful odes, was as much glorified by the pro- clamation as the winner's own, the most distinguished was, to 310 APPENDIX A. be crowned by the hands of Antoninus. This is the Emperor L. Antoninus Pius ; the two Emperors, to whom the Council of Aphrodisias sent their decrees on behalf of Menander, are his two adopted sons and successors, M. Aurelius Antoninus Phi- losophus and L. ^lius Verus, who reigned jointly from 161 to 170 of our sera. Antoninus Pius having, whilst Emperor, never set foot out of Italy, the glory of Menander, or he in search of it, must have gone far beyond his native land. In the two lines before which the translation breaks off, we may distinctly read the following words : — " hieirpa^aTO aydrivai arf(ova (or auova) irapa tok Avriaxevcriv to? aeiv f]fiaEZONBAABIAAHAAJ#NEIXlN HAN KPATI N I EPAN H EPFAMON KOI NON AZI AZAN APnN n AN KPATI N EEZON '///./////./m.m.m/./m.m/./m.m./////A NANKOINONAZIAZANAPllNn^ EBAOM^nANA0HNAIAinA/f AN API2N HAN KPATI N H PX2TON# ZIEnN NEMEIAANAPIlNH/i KAITAEHHZN EM El AAN APUN H AN/i TINIEPAN OAYMHEIA ENA-GHNAIZA^ API2N HAN KPATI N H PX2TON APOAI# EilN-nYOIAANAPilNnANKPATIN PnMHNKAnETnAEIAOAYMniAANA/# flN HAN KPATI N n PnTONAPOAEIZ IE /i N 312 APPENDIX A. Taken with impress paper from the stone. The points be- tween the letters, although in several instances without import- ance, are all seen in the impression. The inscription may in the following way be restored. ['H ^ov\r) icai 6 Srj/iof Kat 17 yepovaia} €TeifJ/>]va)V, aveKo/ie] 10 vov rpiena rai rpeii JS.pia[7rov ^e/ttSayJ wyeveiov, avBpa kui, veiKlnja-avra] iepov<; Kat TaXavriaiov^js km irXeia] Tou? dXKovs ayeova^. Neav TToXtVj "Ze^aara, iraiSmv KXa[u] 15 hutvarv •iravKparw' ^e/xeia, iraiBmv TravKpanv laO/iia, ar/eveiov iravKpa TiV E0eea-ov, 20 BaX^iKkrja, {^avSpeov travKpanv']' 1,fiv\p\ vav, KOIVOV AaiaEPEINANePnniNnZ THNZYNBEBHKYIANZYNl AN EY AAMOYTOYM HTPOAnPOYTH N M H TEPATOYZHNI2NOZ " [When it was reported that Callias, who was a good and honoxirable man?] and had unceasingly done great service to his native city, bore humanely the accident that had befallen his child, it was decreed by the Council and the People, that Zeno, son of Callias, the son of Zeno, the son of Eudamus, be honoured even after he departed, and that there be put up his statues, and sculptures, and images in the temples and public places by Callias his father; and that there be also consoled Appia, daughter of Eudamus, the son of Metrodorus, the mother of Zeno." \ The word /ieTii}CKaKy(pTa appears so distinctly in this and other inscriptions copied at Aphrodisias, that we must acknow- ledge it to be a dialectic form instead of the common fieTTjWa- Xora. It may be added then to the two words given in Greek grammars as having doubled aspiratze (the first being naturally changed into the tenuis), the Pindaric o«;^;os=oj(;o9, and the Hesiodic crKV7roi=crKvH NHEnOIMMENON EN APETON KAinANTOZEnAINOYAEIANTAIZKAAAIZ TAIZKAIMEriZTAIZTEIMAIZANATEeHNAI AEAYTOYKAIANAPIANTAZKAIArAAMATA KAIEIKONAZrPAnTAZENOnAOIZEniXPY ZOIZENIEPOIZKAIAHMOZIOirTOnOIZEHTEI MAZER I rPA«l>HNAIAEKAIEniTOYMNHMEIOYENIlTE GAHTAI KAIZH NUNOAAEA^OZAYTOY TAZAZI AZEn I rPA«l>AZAYTOYn APAM EMYGHZ OAlAEKAAAIANZHNilNOZTOYEYAAMOY KAIAnIANEYAAMOYTOYMHTPOAI2POY No. 26. (Continuation of the foregoing.) TOYZrON EIZAYTOYKA1 EYAAMON KAAAI OYTOYZH NI2NOZTON AAEA0ON AYTOY «I>EPEIN AN OPnn I NflZTOZYN BEBH KOZ ATYXHMA « that Callias [twice, i. e. grandson] of Zeno, the son of Eudamus, an honourable and good youth, whose conduct was virtuous and worthy of all praise, [be honoured] with the greatest and fairest honours, and that there be put up his statues and sculptures and images painted on gold-grounded shields in the 318 APPENDIX A. temples and public places, whereon there are also to be in- scribed his honours, fair and beseeming and becoming his family and the conduct of his life ; and that these worthy in- scriptions be likewise inscribed on his tomb, in which his bro- ther Zeno also is buried ; and that there be consoled Callias, son of Zeno, the son of Eudamus, and Appia daughter of Eudamusj the son of Metrodorus, (26) his parents ; and Eudamus, son of CaUias, the son of Zeno, his brother, that they may bear hu- manely the misfortune which has befallen them." The inscriptions 24 to 27 relate to the same family, whose lineage stands thus : Eudamus Metrodorus i I Zeno Eudamus I. I . . Callias Appia Zeno (24, 26) Callias (25^ Eudamus (26, 27). The four letters AOAZ, in the tenth line, stand either for KAAAZ or for APAQAZ, the stone-cutter or the copyist having left out the two first letters, because they are so similar to the two last of the preceding TAZ. It is not easy exactly to define the works of art which the Town-Council of Aphrodisias caused " to be put up." The etKoveHN Al AEAYTOYTAZTEI M AZ KAIEHITOYMNHMEIOYENnKEKHAEY TA^^^MEMYGHZGAIAEKAAAIANZH Nr2^^.#rOYEY^MOYKAI An<|)| AN EYAA MO J^,JTPOAi2POYTOYZrON EIZAY TOY MMMMMPnn I NIIZTAZZYM BEBH MA lENOYHHTP " it was decreed by and the People, that there be honoured even after he departed, Eudamus son of Callias, the son of Zeno, the son of Eudamus, an honourable and good youth, who lived decently and wisely, and like a pattern of virtue, with the greatest, fairest and worthy honours, and that there be put up his images, painted on gold-grounded shields, and statues and sculptures in the temples and public places, whereon there are to be inscribed the honours worthy and be- fitting his family ; and that there be inscribed his honours also APHRODISIAS. 321 on the monutnent in which he is buried; and that there be con- soled Callias, son of Zeno, the son of Eudamus and Appia, daughter of Eudamus, the son of Metrodorus, his parents to bear humanely the accidents that have befallen them. The decree " Thus Callias and Appia lost their last son, who had in life been virtuous, like his brothers, and been equally honoured in death. To his parents the same request is made, which he had heard twice before, to bear their misfortunes humanely. What Greek genius meant by this, its first-born, Homer, has put before us in the finishing canto of the Iliad. No. 28. — In the west wall. lOYIOI lYN \Oy\OM.MMZ\0 H0EIKAIZEMNOTHTIBIOYYnE TETEAEYTHKENnPOZHKEIA AEYTH KOTflN n APAMYGEIZGA «l>IATATI2NAnOBOAHZAIATAY OAI M EN KAI M ETH AAAKXOTATA KEAAAPIZTOKAEOYZTOYZH Nil GHZAZQAIAETONnATEPAAYT THZTYXHZZYN«l>OPAIZTAIZTE rON EYZN n POAOPOYTOYTO MIOYAIOZnYPPOYrnAMM^ This inscription forms one half of an honorary decree similar to the foregoing, but without mentioning statues and images. Boeckh, n. 2776, reads thus : tOvtov 7}0et KM a-e/ivorriri ^lov uirelJo^e^M^M?] rereXevTTjKev irpoariKec Se y 322 APPENDIX A. " ■ [rerelXevTrjKorav 7rapa/j,v0ei(70ai ^iXraTov OTTO ^o[u]\'i7?" hia Tav\T(£\ [TeTeifir]cr]dai fjuev xai fierqKKajQfpra Ta[is] KKea Apia-TOKkeov; tov Zrjvavo^ [Trapa/ivjdija'aa'Oai Se tov irarepa avT[ov] Tr)is TV'XTj'; av/j,IAOTEIMONENTEAPXAIZ KAIVnOZXEZEZINKAIEPrEnrZTAZIAIZ KAITAIZAOmAIZEIZTHNnATPIAA YnHPEZIAIZnPOGYMONrENOMENON " The Council and People honoured, even after he departed, Metrodorus Demetrius, son of Metrodorus, living decently, a man of honourable ambition in public affairs, and showing zeal in offices, and promises, and the superintending of works, and other services to the commonwealth." AHMHTPION appearing distinctly in both Sherard's tran- script (Boeckh, 2779) and ours, we must take it as a second name of Metrodorus, instead of reading AHMHTPIOY, and making Demetrius the gi'andfather of the younger Metrodorus. The form /jLeTijXKay(xora is very remarkable. See No. 24. No. 31. — At the east gate. MMMAlMETlL. MMMMKli TAIZAZI AIZKAI n PEHOY ZAIZTEIMAIZNEAIPANME NEKAEOYZAMMIANFYNAI KArENOMENHNMHTPOAil POYTOYM HTPOAilPOYAH M H TPIOYZHZAZAN KOZM IX2Z KAIZnPONI2Z y2 324 APPENDIX A. « decreed to honour, even after her death [?] with worthy and becoming honours, Necera Ammias, daughter of Menecles, who had been the wife of Metrodorus Demetrius, son of Metrodorus, and lived decently and soberly." No. 32. — In the east wall. HBOYAHKAIOAHMOCKAI HrEPOYCIAKAIOINEOI ETEI M H CAN ATTAAON MAKEAONOZTOYAPICTE OYTOYAAEEANAPOY AnOAAWN lAOYAI ATE THNIAIANAPETHNKAI THNTWNnPOrONWNAIA TE«l>IAOAOEIWNKAIANA GHMATtAJNnPOCTONAH MONEYNOIAN " The Council and the People and the Elders [Gerusia] and the young men honoured Attains, son of Macedo, the son of Aristeas, the son of Alexander ApoUonides, both for his own virtue and that of his ancestors, and for his benevolence to the People, [manifested in] love of fame and splendid offerings." The BouXi;, Aiy/io?, Tepovcria and Neot, although these bodies ■were not co-ordinate in political importance (see No. 2.), some- times made decrees in common, which were then called those of the "Sitn/ap^M, or of the Koivo^ovXiov (Eckhel, D. N. II. p.575)- Perhaps the decree in honour of Attains originated with the young men, among whom he distinguished himself, and who especially owed him gratitude for his splendid offerings ; it was then referred to the examination of the Gerusia, a kind of court of honour, and finally sanctioned by the highest municipal authorities. APHRODISIAS. 325 Aristeas (as Boeckh remarks, 2775) and Papias are the names of distinguished sculptors, both natives of Aphrodisias, mentioned in a Greek inscription at Rome. Still more distin- guished is another name read on our monument, Alexander Aphrodisiensis, being one 'of the best interpreters of Aristotle, Instead of IAOAOZinN, Boeckh, 2781, would propose to read IAOAOZII2N, i, e. liberality; but the former word ap- pears quite distinct in our transcript, as it does in Sherard's, No. 33, — In the east wall. ETH^ANTAHHAA/^ TAIZTEIMAIZAION^ XION APTEM \MlPOM TOYM EN I n nOYTO^ AIONYZIOYTOYAH MHTPIOYZHZANTA KOZMIHZKAinPOZ YnOAEirMAAPETHZ " . . . . honoured with the fairest [?] honours Dionysius, son of Artemidorus, the son of Menippus, the son of Dionysius, the son of Demetrius, living decently and as a pattern of virtue," The name of Menippus appears on the coins of Aphrodisias. No. 34, — In the east wall. OAAYIOZ MYONAAfEAAOY PAZTOYANAPA EZMMMMON KAAON KAI AfAG^ " The Senate and the People honoured Socrates, the son of Theophrastus, who had been an honourable and good man." The translation takes the word at the beginning of the last line for FENOMENON. No. 36. — In the south-east wall. NOAH HBOYAHKAIOAHMO^ EIMH ETEIMHZENrEINAT IHPAI TAAOYfYNAIKA HPAPY The inscription at the right is published by Boeekh, 2820'', as a sequel to a larger decree, also " made by the Council and People in honour of the wife of Attains," a priestess of Here. The last line of our inscription. Prof. Boeekh explains by xai e 'Hpaiov, signifying that a statue of the priestess was also placed in the Heraeum, i. e. the temple of Juno. The name of the priestess Boeekh, partly from another inscription, supposes APHRODISIAS. 327 to have been Caja. The letters TEIN, from which this is to be inferred, are in Sherard^s transcript the same as in ours. The little column on the left is part of another inscription, which may have had contents similar to those of the inscription on the right. No. 37- — In the east wall. TIBEPIONKAAYAION A^KIOYANTilNlOY KAAYAIOYAOM ETE^ NOYAIOrENOYZAZ .JZAPXIEPEflZKAl NOMOeETOYYION ATTAAONZYNKAH TIKONTONEYEPrE THNTHZnATPIAOZ " Tiberius Claudius Attains, son of Lucius Antonius Clau- dius Dometinus [?] Diogenes, the High-priest of Asia and Nomothetes, a Senator, the benefactor of his native city." The name of Dometinus, or rather Domitinus, although de- rived in the same way from Domitius, as Antoninus is from Antonius, is by far less used than Domitianus. \^Ao/j,t]Tetvov, however, appears in another inscription (Boeckh, 2777)) relating to the same Diogenes, the High-priest of Asia and Nomothetes. The office of High-priest of Asia, perhaps identical with that of Asiarcha (Eckhel, iv. p. 205), was among the highest distinc- tions conferred on natives of Asia Minor. It was intimately connected with the great games celebrated in the principal cities of the province by the Koivov Atrta?, and was attended with considerable expense (vide our No. 20.) ; whence Strabo, in proof of the opulence of Tralles, appeals to the fact, that three of its 328 APPENDIX A. families had the office of High-priests of Asia conferred on them nearly hereditarily. The office, although the title seems by cour- tesy to have been continued through life, was not perpetuaL The title of Nomothetes, implying legislatorial functions, is not common on the coins and monuments of Asia Minor. No. 38. — In the east wall, upon a pedestal. KAAYAIAN ANTI2NIAN TATIANHN THNKPATIZ THNANES'I ANKAAYAI OYAIOPE NOYZKAIAT TAAOYZYN KAHTIKON THNENRA ZINEKHPO rONflNEY EPfETINTHZ nOAEHZ THZANAZTA ZEXIZTOYAN APIANTOZEn IMEAHeENTO TloKAo KA TOAZINO " Claudia Antonia Tatiana, the excellent cousin of Claudius 'Diogenes and Attains, the Senators [?], being a distinguished benefactress to the city, as were her ancestors. APHRODISIAS. 329 " Ti. CI. Attalus, the son of Diogenes [?], superintended the erection of the statue." The three last names are restored from No. 37j which evi- dently relates to the same family. The translation takes the words in the tenth line for tTWKKrfnicwv, the adjective atr/Kkr)- TiKoON *« Attalus [erects a statue of] Diogenes, his brother." Published by Boeckh, 2805, together with a corresponding inscription written by Diogenes under a statue of his brother Attalus. No. 40. — In the west wall, upon a pedestal. nonAiONAi AIONIAAPIA NONinniKON nonAioYAi AlOYAnOAAfl NIANOYnPEI MinEIAAPlOY YioNnonAi 330 APPENDIX A. OYAIAIOY lAAPIANOYY HATIKOYEK rONONnOA AflNZVNKAH TIKI2NKAIY HATIKXINZYN PENH TIBEPIAIOYAI AANTONIAAH TIllZMHT-PoKAH MAMMIZYNKAH TIKI2N TON TAYKYTATON YION " Publius ^lius Hilarianusj of equestrian rank, son of the [Centurio] Primipilarius Publius ^lius ApoUonianus, grandson of the Consularis Publius ^lius HilarianuSj kinsman of many a Consularis and Senator. " Tiberia Julia Antonia Letois, a mother and aunt of Senators, [erects this in honour of the above P. ^1. Hilarianus], her sweetest son." PubUshed by Boeckh, 2793. The word after the names Antonia Letois may be taken for MHTPOi: instead of MHTHP, but the following, MAMMH, is evidently a nominative ; and the reading which the translation follows, supposing that some of Tiberia's elder sons and her nephews were Senators, seems preferable to that, which would give her mother and her aunt the rank of Senators. The terms "ZvyKXryrtKoii and 2i^k\»;to? belong almost exclu- sively to the Roman Senate, Boi/XewTi;? and BovXrj to the Mu- nicipal Councils (Eckhel, I. c. 190; ^vyK\7]T0S 8 I:- S b I S- _ t- ■i r to g r (u 1 -e- b i: 3 §■ b i - I ^ $ b- ■w 1- e s- b b o s- (u CO 3 r 8 « g § e I E^ g o o tl 8 S I ^ § o e I b 3 ^ S W: « 8 t= -^ g o e 5 8 I'- '^ . 3 t' s t- i. ^ S P iS "^ 1^ I 1 1 ^ ^1 b b b o I- APHRODISIAS. 333 d rJ3 d < I- Z < t < a. <0h < y < < i < i i ^ z < -: ^ V < < < o I O ca < < < z < z < o 00 I o z UJ z < W UJ •— Ml 111 5 O z o Q M UJ Z I 2^ w < o > h I ow z UJ u h z UJ z z o UJ < a < UJ UJ if UJ o r h u X 2fe C! O h g Z < z ^ < UJ ^ g £ UJ Z UJ Z z tJ o < z z ^ _: UJ < O N ui < o c? _ 59 O Z Z w S < w "J UJ ^ < ? o < < z 2 ^ z z ^ < b a UJ < < z UJ < h Z < z h ? < o z UJ UI HI UI Z < z "J UJ u taS Z < o z HI w ^ HI ® O UJ >- UJ ul UJ ■©• hi ^ UJ h Z z o z UJ L_ z < h q o UI Z uJ — Z Z h < kl Z Z UJ UJ I Q. ^ UJ o I- < uj h Ul UJ b Si 2 |_ UJ < z < I'l Z Si o ® w z L_ Z ft; 334 APPENDIX A. Published by Boeckh, n. 2829, from Sherard, who saw the fragment at the left in a more perfect state. With the neces- sary restorations the inscription reads thus : — 'H <7opoi(rfj,aT0i;, ovTe St' evrevfetBS '^efwviKrj';, ovre a\[\]Q) rpovm ovSevi' ovBe airdX- Xorpuoaai ovre fieTaKeivrjaat tt^v {v\aKiov, frequently mentioned in Greek inscriptions, is the municipal archive, in which all deeds relating to ground-hold property were deposited or registered, with a view, it seems, especially to secure the mortgages (p^eo?), made by the proprietors. In an inscription copied by Sherard (p. 68) in Asia Minor, we see a secretary of the Gerusia also entrusted with the superintendence of the Chreophylacium. This may often have been the case. In the inscriptions of Aphrodisias, the Chreophylacium always appears intimately connected with the Stephanephorus. We have adverted to this title in an inscription of Mylasa (p. 68), where, the same as in ours, we see a woman bear the title of Stephanephorus. At Aphrodisias, to judge from the monuments and coins, this office was not the highest of the corporation ; nor were the years, as they may have been in other cities, registered after the names of the Stephanephori for the time being. The latter might be inferred, indeed, from the expression in the inscriptions, eiri /)iyo-t? (line 6), which was the usual way, and was made either in the lifetime of the proprietor by writ, or in his 336 APPENDIX A. will. Besides these, the ■n-apayicoprjirK is mentioned in Inscrip- tion 44. and Boeckh, 2839. ATraWorptwcrt? (line 12) is the general term for the illegal modes of transferring. Lines 10 and 11 show that the sanctity of the tomhs was sometimes vio- lated by powers who could be awed only by religious fears. Certainly, as Inscription 41. shows, the preservation of the splen- did tombs was intimately connected with the interests of the priesthood, of which the Stephanephori also were members. The lepararov rafieiov (line 13) may be the treasury of the tem- ple, or that of the BovXi), to which, in Inscription 21, the title lepcoraTr) is given. No. 44. — In the south-east wall. In the first eight lines of the following inscription the various members of the family are enumerated entitled to a burial in the proprietor's tomb, who, from line 7? appears to be called Eumachus. This name Boeckh substitutes at the end of line 1 for EYAAMOZ, which, being distinctly read in our as well as Sherard's transcript, is certainly on the stone, in consequence, perhaps, of an oversight of the stone-cutter, who was deceived by the immediately preceding EYAAMOY. From the middle of line 8 the inscription contains one of the most complete de? clarations against the violation of tombs :^-" But nobody else [shall have leave to bury any one] in the sarcophagus, nor move it, nor allow to any one the separate use of the sarcopha- gus or the altar, or an Isosta ; nor find a mode in which they might [be alienated] under any pretence. But after the [afore- said persons] being buried, the monument is to be made a He- roum. But if anybody attempts to bury [any one in the sar- cophagus] or the Isostae, or move the sarcophagus, or to do anything contrary [to the prescriptions], both he who does so and he who receives [the grant] shall be a grave-robber, [and impious and] accursed ; and they shall pay besides, both he APHRODISIA.S. 337 who does so [and he who receives], to the treasury 10,000 de- naria of the silver coin of the Roman nation, and no less. The Heroum shall be consecrated after all the aforesaid persons be- ing put into it. A copy of this inscription was deposited in the archives under the [Stephanephorus J descending in the sixth generation from Archimedes of the month Tra- janus Augustus," Line 3, our transcript has nAFllOY instead of Sherard's riAnnOY; line 15, XAI instead of KAI ; and line 17, EN- TESHINAI instead of ENTEeHNAI ; Une 19, GEAZT. None of the almanacs known to us, has among the names of the months that of Trajanus Augustus, which was, like many others, only transitorily introduced into chronology. The terms a^pwurdat, (Une 12) and M^nepaiJievov rjpoDov (lines 16 and 17) are found on other monuments of Aphrodisias. In later times the Greeks dignified every defunct by the name of Hero (see inscription on p. 144) ; it is but natural thence, that a tomb should be called a Heroum. Our inscription shows, however, that this was done in consequence of a distinct act called ai^rj- ptotadai, a term synonymous to the airoQeoxnt; (Inscr. 48. 51, and Boeckh, 2831). This consecration did not take place before the tomb was filled; and, in consequence of this act, the tomb was, no doubt, firmly shut up ; the half-filled tombs were secured by bolts, which, to judge fi-om Inscription 41, were exposed to many dangers. 338 APPENDIX A. tf ^ z o b < s ? c ill "i E uj S C CL O Z uj s ^ c < i ^ < Z O « O < W . ^ >^ CL ^ S w ^ r =? UJ y $ o o tu UJ W S5 h z ^ Hi p < |_ < Z h 5 >- § S 5 £ z Z CJ z ba2 h Z C 5?^ O 9t ^ - O < ...^^ ill ^ — ^ ^ UJ o ^ fc/ J» ^ 5£ w o c o F- UJ z 5 Z UJ < 1 1 o 5 S < < h < ul I- < ^ s < z z < > < o o I'l LU ;? k4 ■-: UJ — >> !? ^ W < ^ ± lA" !CJ < v^ \^ >j i^ UJ >- >- 3 z < < ^ UJ UJ < < Z < UJ < I O d UJ Z < 0. Q. < Z < s I ia w w til z ^ < a < s D. a z L. Q. < lil ^ < h UJ O ^ I z 5 q y < UJ M z c g T < Q ffi z < S o I gig C z 5 s < C- ■^ w b i2 z I ^ ? < t a. a. z Z L- UJ o E ^ h 5 w z w Q O ? S Z h Cj APHRODISIAS. 339 o o • (-I ft u CO O I 50 00 w u o pq Oh z2 340 APPENDIX A. ^ ^ p o o c UJ Z z < g < I 2 c I I z < E < < z p <] < < I z UJ tu Hi LU UJ Z o Q. UJ Z iii CJ UJ pw >- w < h < z o UJ < h z o UJ z UJ s s o If z < < z >- < UJ o i w S U 2 ^ > t UJ < S h < < < < o c I o •e- I z < h E UJ X c. a. 8 S z ^. ^ < ^ ^ < -*-3 < < 1 CO fi 1 Si ►5 1 1 1 || d z < ^ -5 < a„5 z z < o z UJ z o z UJ i_ < < < z :d UJ ^ UI ^ < < < z >- < < X UJ s s I h z UJ < z h I z UI z < > o HI 1^ z 5£ CJ UJ ea < i, UJ Z 0. Z 2 > O if O UJ 2 CQ D. I < CI h UJ L. UJ u O Z ^ Z D. < L_ UJ Z L- < APHRODISIAS. 341 ■is* S Sj . a, i p;^ 8S4,""Q. is ^-t I % i-r I it DO ob-Sr— ii->" g as- ^ '^ §- ^ Ir ^ I " i ^"2 s 05 I — I C-1 t — II — it;**ji?>3 ?-8 »o 342 APPENDIX A. " Aurelia Papiana, daughter of Onesimos, the son of Papias, bought the sarcophagus according to the will which Marcus Aurelius Cla[u]dius, son of Philetes, the son of Hermes, made. " In this sarcophagus there has been buried Cla[u]diuSj who had been the husband of Papiana, according to his last will ; and there shall be buried in it also Aurelia Glypte, who had brought him up, and Papiana the aforesaid, and Glypte and Onesime, their daughters. But nobody shall have leave to bury another in the sarcophagus ; since he shall pay to the most sacred treasury 3000 silver denaria, of which one-third is to be his who institutes proceedings. But in the Isoste, which is in the frieze under the sarcophagus, and those in the altar, there shall be buried those to whom the aforesaid Papiana may grant it, her children and heirs. A copy of this inscription has been deposited in the archives under the Stephanephorus Publia ^lia Attalis Sabina, on the third day of the month Gorpieus." AIAZ, hue 10, may be a mistake of the stone-cutter instead of AIAIAZ; but KAAAIOZ, which appears distinctly (lines 2 and 3) in our transcript, seems to be as distinct a variation of the name Claudius, as is Clodius. Line 7? instead of our V, Boeckh has g; the sign of the number 6. The ei8o^opo<; (line 8) of a tomb is mentioned in this inscription, and the fragments of two others from Aphrodisias (Boeckh, 2849, 2850) ; the word is a synonym of the common architectural term ^a^opo';. Not one of the tombs observed by Mr. Fellows in Caria has, hke those of Lycia, the appearance of a house ; they generally con- sist of three parts ; the substructure, 7r\ara<;, the body of the tomb, called ^m/Mx; and fivrjfieiov (by this word sometimes the whole tomb is meant), and the sarcophagus (or cinerary urn), (Topo?. The two former contained several compartments, eta-m- oTai, which were for burying the less-honoured members of the family, the sarcophagus being reserved for the remains of the most respected persons. Some tombs, as we see from our in- scription, had an additional room between the soros and the body of the tomb, the eidophoros. Whether the woodcuts on APflRODISIAS. 343 pages 39, 40, represent specimens of the soros or the eidophoros, cannot be decided with certainty, since we do not know what shape or materials were essential in either ; it is unlikely, how- ever, that an eidophoros which was used after the soros upon it had been filled (Une 8), should have had no other opening but at the top, which is the case in the sarcophagi represented. The month of Gorpieus (line 11) is the eleventh both in the Syro-Macedonian and the Eph^sian almanac, and in the latter extended from July 25th to August 25th. No. 47. — On a slab. Published by Boeckh, 2845. The first hne of the following inscription, owing to the se- veral genitives contained in it, admits of more than one inter- pretation ; that followed in the translation is founded on line 8. Here the names of the proprietor, Julius Aurelius Charidemus, reappear, without however the cognomen Julianus, just in the same way as the pranomen of his mother is left out, from which it may have been derived. To have many names, several Ro- man and one Greek, was quite the fashion at Aphrodisias. See Boeckh, 2S21. The words at the end of the inscription are restored by Boeckh, TON 'AwavTa 'xpovov ; the verb at the beginning of the last line is A[H] PmZ[0] HZETAI. 344 APPENDIX A. D. n < Z o D. UJ Q. < < X O h < Q. < I z O UJ Z o Z S Q. UJ Z <] UJ Z I ti I h < < < h C < UI H O z < < O z z < < uJ Q. UJ X < < < < < < UI < O n. X h z UJ o z t UJ < o c z h z < z z < z CJ UJ 0. UJ X Q. < z < o z E UI o o z I < < O z 2 o < < < < X N < s o z < 0. < X O < X a. > , < < O s h z UJ < Z X ® < X id UI HI UJ Z < HI UI o < < < < i h X < X O z UJ z < < O 0. X < X UI >- O < z o o UI I !« 1) >^ as c« oo S O ^ " g, g ^ S ■5 r g of ^ g Cm .g ^ O .^ +3 ctf 5j 2 ^ I — I 'i -s -g- ^ ^^ ^ O 02 .5 cc ?^ ^ o d T" a 'j '^ '3 ■?! to r^ OQ (U "m -tJ .3 -*^ 5 a (3 rd ft s « S «* I' 1i "" u •^ 1^ '^ a MS CO -tJ o S ^ 1 ^ =S 1 i ;! ^ 's :S S S s 5 =8 *: -^ rS ^ S ^- 1 ° a g -a i-s ^ g ^ oj to -rt '5 "« 'B I:; ^ u ^ -3 PL, ^ tn "5 2 U -^ &0 .B ^ tu :8 APHRODISIAS. 345 < W I O c z s:i4 — 03 Z 00 CJ z UJ < z < < o LU ?9 Z h UJ UJ z < HI > O > a. < z o ■e- < < o a. < < g D. > >- ? Z < UJ < g c < UJ z ui < h z < h z < < UJ z UJ < q < o h z < . I >• O < h z o I •©• < < < < < < Z UJ < Z UJ u UJ c < h o 2 o > o z o < < o i s Q. < < I < Q. o ■e- X z < UI z O < < >- ■©■ Q. s 8 8 3 £f g S- O o < I -^ ^ 'S t3 I _^ 2 o P3 fO -h> s <1 -a -fi o rS^ a o a a ^ g 8 I- > § -3 5 3 a ^ a >:> V XD &, O G^ u 'T3 o A 1 o ;3 -§ P- (>> 43 o 8 UJ Z UJ &Z 13 < CD U ID CO s B s —I OJ 346 APPENDIX A. 2 o GO i ID I -s I" . . b r a '" (u B w?^ ti o 4 o "to •53 o .■4J ^ *« Q. ^ a 3J § ,£3 ^ ^-3 cS tM "eS ,i3 £ "^ I. ■> a* S S o ^^^'^ I r I ° ■* - 1^ c- o '-?^ 5- ^ b- a ^u o ^ I a § • I ^ I- • I- 8 S - b- 8 8 ■»^ p- a o b o 3 ^ I a 8 a o b II I 5 •©■ 2-Qi g g £• o -s:- I 8 CO ODD .. ■■a si o O • b- . a . 8 L? S «' b S «5 S" 'a - 2- -I g o 3 b b -3 O b- 8 i:^ 8 «/> -a o <^ I -a ?.; 3 S S^ S; b ^ a. b If 3 J3. Q I a o — b l- b It 8 m o o i: 3 g b- *- 8 lu b 40 S fv b- .«'. I a 8 b- a o §- ■e- r APHRODISIAS. 347 No. 50. — In the south wall. I2AONANAYIOZ OYIIOHIIAN^ TAHHTAI KATATH N AEAOM EN HN AYTIi ZYNXnPHZINYnOMENANAPOYTOYME NANAPOYTOYTEAEZOPOYTOY AEYnNOZAIATOYXPEO«l>YAAKIOY ENHZOPHKEKHAEYTAKDAABIAANTilN AAB AZKANTEI N AH FENOM EN H FYN H A/i TOYKHAEYGHZETAIAEKAIAYTOZA^ nOAAXlN lOZETEPOZAEOYAEIZEZE^ EZOYZIANANYZAIHENeA4'AITINAAA AONZXlEZAnOAAXlN lOYTOYH POAH AOYM ENOYEn EOn APATAYTATI nOI H ZAZHEnEIXEIPHZAZEZTIlAZEBHZ KAIEHAPATOZKAITYMBIIPYXOZKAI n POZAnOTEIZATliEIZTOI EPI2TATON TAM EIONTOYKYPIOYAYTOKPATOPOZKAI ZAPOZAPrYPIOY?( rilNTOTPITON M EPO EZTXITOYEKAI KHZANTOZTHZEH irPA Published by Boeckh, 2830. " according to the cession given to him by Menan- der, son of Menander, the son of Telesphorus, the son of Po- lemo [?], through the archives. In this sarcophagus there is buried Julia Antonia Abascantina, who had been his wife; there shall also be buried Apollonius himself. But another shall not have leave to open, or bury anybody else, except Apollonius, the aforesaid. Since he who acts against this, or attempts it, shall be impious, and cursed, and a grave-robber, and pay besides into the most sacred ta-easury of our master, the Emperor Caesar, 6000 silver denaria, of which one-third part is to be his who institutes proceedings pursuant to this inscription." Line 11, our transcript has ZI2EZ, which is doubtless in- 348 APPENDIX A. correct, instead of XAPIZ given by Sherard. If it were ZAOZ, one might be tempted to suppose, that just as in the Latin and in the languages derived from it, salvus, safe, etc., the Greek word SMji . ^ I — I b c I' r II ■I- ^ o r 8 o 8 "5> o b 2 o „ b C/* b a, 3 8 S s g e § § 8 o b &-(."" 8 fc-i ojj. cS 8 '"" "^ i* ST 3 t i o r^ b to ^ o 8 Si 3. r o IONA EH PHAOYH rVNH AYTOYEN AETAIZ MN I n nOZTEAPIZTOKAEOYZTOYZH KAIOYZANZHNI2NOKAIAPIZTOKAHZ HAOYMENOZBOYAHenZIN IZAnETEeHANTirPA<|)ONEIZTO <|)AN H0P0YT05TI KAYH'I KAE INOZIOYAIHOY Published by Boeckh, 2836, from Sherard's MS., who saw the stone in a more perfect state. With his additions, and some restorations, the inscription reads thus : — Kara Ta<; Sodei,era<; [avT(o vTTO Tt. KXavSiov [?] Terpa] ki tov "T'^iKXeov; rcov tottwv aw)(m- {jirfaiv Sia tov ^(pem^vTuiKijov. 'D,v ev fj-ev rr} <7opo) redairrai Kpia- [to«\i79 ApiaroKXeov; tov /cat] Zijvtovo? tov ®eaiTi]TOV, 6 vloii av- [tov TatfyqaeTat, Se Kai avTovo<;, but the particle kui does not appear in either transcript. No. 53.— On a slab. TOMNHMEIONKAITHNEnHA TXIZOPON KAITAZEIZnZTAZKA TEZKEYAZENZHNHNAnOA AilN lOYTOYFAMOY HAEYTAIZHNIlNOnPOrErPAMMENOZANAT EnNIOYEKAPNOYZAPT#X)YXE KHAEY OYTOYrAMOYOTOYAAEAOYAYTOYYIO Ol EPYEO«l>OPOI EN EOH YOlZEf EAIHN lOY NAHAOYTAIETIKHAEYGHZETAIENTHZ OYETEPOZAEOYAEIZEZOIZI AN EZE PHZOPnOYTEAN YZAI AYTH N EH El AR ZKON APrYPIOYXmNTOTPrrON EE PKHAEYeHZONTATOYEANXPHZIMO AnreH eiztoxpecxi>yaakion eh izte* The first four lines inform us that " Zeno, son of ApoUonius, the son of Gamus, built the monument and the sarcophagus upon it, and the Isostae." Those which follow have lost a con- siderable part at the left. We see from line 5 that there had 352 APPENDIX A. been buried in the sarcophagus the aforesaid Zeno, whose line- age may be contained in line 6 ; there was buried also a son of his brother (line 7)- In line 8 the trustees of the temple, the Neopoei (NEOflYOI, as in No. 41), and perhaps the Ste- phanephori are mentioned ; from this and from the beginning of line 8, we may infer that Chresimus (line 13), who afterwards became the proprietor of the tomb, had made arrangements with the public authorities to obtain for himself a burial in the sarcophagus. He alone is entitled to this (line 9) ; " nobody else shall have leave to bury another in the sarcophagus, or to open it ; he who acts against it shall pay into the Emperor's fisc 3000 silver denaria, of which one-third is to be his who [institutes proceedings. But in the Isostae] there shall be buried those whom Chresimus [may wish. A copy of the inscription] was deposited in the archives under the Stephanephorus " No. 54. — In the west wall. TOMNHMEIONKAIHEnAYTnZOPOZEZTIN XAPHTOZTETPAKITOYZHNriNOZTOYAPTEMO NOZAINEIOYEZHNZOPONKEKHAEYTAIXAPHZ^ on ATH POAI N EIOYKAIXAPHZKAI AnI AOI n An nOI AYTOYKAI rAYKHNOGEIOZAYTOYMONnN ETIM AEYeHZOMENnNAnIAZTHZMHTPOZ/i/iJA#. NEIOYKAIAINEIOYKAITHZrYNAIKOZAYTOY «l>YZII«2NTEKNnNAYTOYMHAENOZE XONTOZEZOYZIANAAAONTINAENGAH'A^ MHTEEIZTONBUMONMHTEEZTHNZOPON^ En ElOENGAH'AZAnOTEIZATIlTni EPI2TATI2TA MEinxAIZXEIAIAnENTAKOZIATAYTHZTHZ En I rPAHZAn etegh anti tpa^on eztoxpe 0YAAKION En IZTEAN H0OPOYTOGATTA AlAOZTHZMENEKPATOYZMHNOZrOPniEOY APHRODISIAS. 353 "The monument and the sarcophagus upon it are the pro- perty of Chares ^neas, descending in the fourth generation from Zeno, the son of Artemo. In the sarcophagus there has been buried Chares, the father of ^neas, and Chares and Appia, his grandfather and grandmother, and Glyco, his uncle, there being yet to be buried only Appia, Eneas' mother, and his wife, and the children begotten of his body, nobody having leave to bury another, neither in the monument nor in the sarcopha- gus, since he who buries [another there] shall pay into the most sacred treasury 2500 denaria. A copy of this inscription was deposited in the archives, there being Stephanephorus for the ninth time Attalis, the daughter of Menecrates, in the month Gorpieus." In a manner similar to that, in which the grandfather's father and grandfather are in French called bis-dieul and tris-dieul, it is common for persons of Aphrodisias to call themselves St? up to i^aKi<;, the descendants of their ancestors. Not always (Boeckh, 2835, 2774), but commonly in these cases, aU the ancestors, up to him who is named, have the same name as the first-mentioned person. Thus in our inscription the proprietor has the name borne by his father and grand- father. Chares, together with that of ^neas. By this he is called where ambiguities are to be avoided ; and indeed it seems to be the usual name of the individual, that of Chares approach- ing somewhat towards a family name. It is curious that the women also, who married into that family, had a common name, that of Appia. In a great many inscriptions we have found a woman called by two names, which have not the respective re- lations of praenomen and cognomen. Sometimes women on marrying may have adopted the names of their mothers-in-law. The month of Gorpieus has occurred in No. 46. 354 APPENDIX A. No. 55. — In the west wall. ZH OBilMOZKAIMZOPOZEZTINOYAniOYXA PITHNOZIATPOYIZHNZOPONTEOHZE TAI AYTOZKAIAeAAZI AH PYN H AYTOY KAIOYAn lOZAn EAAAZOYIOZAYTflN E TEPOZAEOYAEIZTEGHZETAIENAYTHE HEIOeAH'AZETEPONAnOTEIZEIEIZTEl M AZTflNZEBAZTIlN ^ OMOinZEINAIKAITAZnAPAKEIMENAZTIlBflMnK^ rnZOPIillZilZTAZn AAM moyztpeizoyah \om XAPITHNOZEZXINMIANEINAIKOPNHAIANOYTO^ YIOYAYTOYTHNAEMIANAIONYZIOYTOYAIONYZJ OYTOYTATIAZYIOYTHZrENOMENHZXAPITflNO/i rYN Al KOZTHN AETPITHNOYAn lOYAH EAAA TOYYIOYAYTOY Published by Boeckh, 2846, from Sherard, and the upper part also from Walpole's Travels, p. 462, n. 12. " In his lifetime. "The monument and the sarcophagus is [the property] of Ulpius Charito the physician. Into the sarcophagus there shall be put himself and Flavia Thasia [?], his wife, and Ulpius Apellas, their son ; but nobody else shall be put into it, since he who buries another [there] shall pay as a fine to the august \i. e. Emperors] [6000] denaria. " In the same way, the three Isostae made of slabs, lying at the side of the monument and the sarcophagus, are to be the property of Ulpius Charito, of which one is to be the property of Comelianus, his son ; one that of Dionysius, son of Diony- sius [and] of Tatia, who had been Charito's wife ; and the third to be the property of Ulpius Apellas, his son." A.PHRODISIAS. 355 Line 4, instead of 0AAZIA, the other transcripts have 0A- ZIA. Line 9, Sherard has the numeral sign of r after ^; line 11, flAAAIMOYZ, which Prof. Boeckh corrects into FIAAKI- NOYZ. Etffoxrrat irXaKivoi, lying at the side of the monument, are mentioned in no other inscription at Aphrodisias; so are the expressions ZHaavn (line 6) and et? Tei/Mai rtov "Ze^aoTav (lines 7 and 8). A physician of the name of Charito, a citizen of Aphrodisias, was known to Galen ; Charito, the author of the novel edited by the learned D'Orville, was also a citizen of a city called Aphrodisias. D'Orville has made it probable that the Aphrodisias meant is the city of Caria ; and our inscription, showing that in this city the name of Charito was not unusual (that of Athenagoras, his father, is also found there, Boeckh, 2^48, 2782, 2783), throws some more weight into the balance. No. 56. — In the south wall, partly in the earth. KAHPONOMXIN AIAAOXUNTE AYTflNKAIIl ANAYTOIPn This is probably part of the following inscription published by Boeckh, 2847, from Sherard's MS., stating that the tomb is the property of the Archiater, M. Aur. Messulejus Chrysaoreus, and of his wife, Socratis, and " of their heirs and successors, and those whom they themselves may wish [or order by will] ." M.apKov AvprfKiov M.ea-a-ovKrjtov \pva-aope- 0)9, apviarpov Kai hvprpua's 'StaKpari- So?, TTjs a^ioXoycoTaTT]^ yvvaiKo^ avrov, KKripovoiMov Sia Bo^av re avrcov Kai d>v av avTOi ^ovXrjdaa-iv rj Siara^oiVTai to fivrjfietov. 2 A 2 356 APPENDIX A. No. 57- — In the south wall. TOM N H M ^\0////J//J//J//JA//A//A//A//m }^^\H^HHH^//A//A//AyM.//A//A/i,//A.MfH TAZENTHM M //AMIA/MA/MAySM. ^T^Ty.KY^T.//A//A//A//A//A//A//AM.M. TO\^^N&\0//A//AyiJAIAM.//A//AM^L^ AyrnKMorMMMM./An'Oi: BOYAHeH»/A.M/AMMMEmA\ This fragment, containing the usual declarations about a sar- cophagus, and Isostse which belong to [Titus] Flavins, may thus be partly restored : — TO fj,vr}fieio[y xav Trjv CTTt-] Kei/jLevrjv a[vTm cropov xai] Ta7ia/8to[9 .... 0? 6-] avTw KM oi[<; av avjro^ No. 58. — In a house. OHAATACECTINA/i^^J/iJ nOYTOYAAPACTOYC^^^^; ATI ACrVN Al KOCAYTC/i/i Al M EN ECGEOCyOYKMMM ENOYCAYTUNo May be read thus : 'O vXaTWS ear IV K[piaTi'ir-'\ irov Tov AhpaaTOv {jcai T-] anai; ywatKO^ avTO \y K-] at Meveo-^eos vov [«at 7-] evovs avTuv, APHRODISIAS. 357 "The platas is the property of A[ristip]pus, son of Adras- tus and of Tatia his wife, and Menestheus their son, and their family." 'To? instead of vioPO AEIZIEnNnOAE nZTONAAMnPO TATO^ The rest of the inscription is purposely erased. Boeckh, n. 2761-65, gives from Sherard's MS. four inscriptions, begin- ning like ours : 6 Stj/mi} ti]^ Xa/i'irpoTaT7]<; ApoSei,v ttoXco)? Tov Xa/nrporaTov Stj/iov ; then follow respectively the names of the cities of ApoUonia, Heraclea, Hierapolis, Cibyra and Tabe, which had joined with Aphrodisias in celebrating gymnastic festivals, and are honoured by " the most splendid city of the Aphrodisieans by [erecting the statue of] their most splendid Demos." No. 63. — On a round pedestal. TACAI\'NCMA\/I AIU>NIAYnOMNH CIC AABIN€NNA YTHNIONA MIANON-Y ETEPIOYKAA NTX2NIOYAO INOYEIMIO We may take this as a fragment of an honorary decree in favour of Antonius Ammianus, (?), son of Tiberius Claudius, and grandson of Antonius Domitinus, two persons mentioned in No, 37 ; reading the fragment thus : — 6 Sr)fi,[osi] ereifirjaev. A [ovkiov] [A]vTtoviov A[jit-] fiiavov, v[lov] Ti^epiov KXa[ySiov,] [A] vratviov Ao [/ttre-] ivov eKyovo\y\. 360 APPENDIX A. No. 67. — On a sarcophagus. HCDPOCCCTKAIOTOnOCMIAIAPKWNANHAKONAA 00,JTE^nANOYKAI€YPIHCKAIHPAKA€OC COC KAHPONOMOinenANOVKWEOYnATPOCAANAZT OAMHCmOMAOY T..1K In line 1 of this funeral inscription we may decipher : — T) aopoi . . re xat 6 towo? . . . aSeXtjiOis 'Hpa/cXeos. In line 2 : — KKtipovo/ioi, and perhaps areipavq^opov, besides irarpo's. No. 68. — On the lid of a sarcophagus. \IO\OYn«l>0HOYMAPnNOZHANTJ/^OYZAMEI^I The name of Mapa>v we have had in an inscription from Telmessus, page 108. No. 69. — On the hd of a sarcophagus. WCTTWIAMICJPl/oArrOArAVCWAPCN^N No. 70. — On the lower part of a column. AXMr TOnOCAOY KAAAH on two tablets the cha- racteristic iota of the dative is added, KEAAHI, whilst in ZriEIPH it is left out, according to the general use of these inscriptions. The same discrepancy has been observed in an MYLASA. 363 inscription from Mylasa (Boeckh, 2696) ; and in general the inscriptions show that Carian orthography is anything but con- sistent. MYLASA. No. 82. Page 70. — On the single column. 'O 8i7/*09 lAevavSpov OvXia Sov roll liiv6v[Sr)fiov,] rov e[yepr/]eTr)v [t] 7) and ov, but only in proper names ; avrm instead of avrov we have, Boeckh, 2709. No. 84. Page 71. — On a pedestal. 364 APPENDIX A. No. 85. Page 71. — In a wall. This inscription may be partly restored thus : — Tivjioi} [Bfo)-] vos Xeovlja a-] vedrjKev 'RpaKXei [icjai Tot?. . . . The name of Tineius we read in an inscription at Athens. Chandler, Inscr. Ant. 62. line 5. No. 86. Page 71.— On an altar. No. 87. Page 72. — In the wall of an old mosque. The inscription may be partly restored thus : — K.TTjffeK et9 TS Tov koivov ? 6ts virovoBevaiv ok Sr) kov en . . . . [Mu-] 'Kaaewv iroKw eiepovarj';' 6 Sr) xai avroi Trpo'iSo/iev XP^O' ^p-ocia T7]v iroKiv viriffor/ov ofjMToov TTjv Kaiaapoi virep MvA^wreav. The words after inrovo6evtriv, line 2, are wanting in Anthimus' transcript, from which Prof. Boeckh printed the inscription. MYLASA. 365 =3 O ■a i 00 00 d I to »-■ o pq 366 APPENDIX A. Line 11, in the beginning, Chishull has NMPX2N, which Boecldi changes into [TJAMIilN. An eirKTranj^ rav iepwv appears in another Mylasean inscription, Boeckh, 2693 C. From ^NOEIIN of our transcript, we might easily adopt the reading of dewv, if we could only restore the preceding word. Line 13, «l>IAOAOH, which appears distinctly in our tran- script, is left out in that followed by Prof. Boeckh, who supplied the final words of the hne from the general context. The words KAAOZKAIArAGOZ and KAAOKAFAeiA (line 17), are frequently mis-spelt in transcripts of Greek in- scriptions ; see, for instance, Sherard's MS. and Boeckh, 3065. Hence it may have happened, that the KAI, which is distinctly in our transcript, is not in Boeckh's copy, who consequently restores the end of line 17 thus: iraTpiSa' Iva he fidXXov. Instead of EKANHZ (line 18), which appears distinctly in our transcript, Boeckh has Eni«l>ANHZ. STRATONICEIA. No. 89. Page 81. — On the front of the portico of Council-hall. pH 7ro\t9, <»? eiceXeva-e Kai XepaTnsi] epeoTa Sia ^iXoKoKolv]^, omovo/wv, [et] [e] iricmja-oiTai ol dXvT'qpiot, ^ap^apoi [tij 7ro]\et 7) Ti; X'^P"' ''"** evearwri, erei. 'O 0eoTiKOISM AENTnn PON AnTOYZEPAH lOY nAIAIKHTONAEIEPHATHZGEOYANAZTHZAIZ AI©INHEXOYZANANArErPAMMENATAAIA TATOYS'HIZMATOZENTm EPnTHGEOYAN A rPA<|)HNAIAETOS'HIZMAETHEEEAPATOYBOYAEY THPIOYENAEZIAnPOZTHNAIIlNrONAIAMONHNTHZ EYZEBIAZmNeEHNTOAEANAA^/iA/iZEnirPA ♦HZEZOAIAZeHNAIYnOTilNEniZTATIlNTOYBOYAEY THPIOY Published by Boeckh, 2715 B, who reads thus : — i,Kova \r^paif\Tr)v ej(pva-av to [ovlofia e- avTov, /cat rov fiev iraihovofiov ava\^p]a\^^ai\ TO ■\lrr}(f>i(r/jLa ev tco irpovam rov ^epuTriov, iraiSiKT], Tov Se leprja Tr}fi]a \Tt)]<} eiriypa- 10 <}yi)<; e^oSuia0t)vai inro twv eirca-Tarcov tov ^ovXev- rrjpiov, " a painted image, bearing his name, and the Paedo- nomus is to write the decree on [the wall of] the Pronaos, that ■ for the use of the bciys in the temple of Serapis ; but the priest is to erect in the temple of the Goddess a stone column, having written on it the concerning passages of the decree. But the decree is to be written on [the walls of] the porch of the council- haU, on the right side, to the perpetual existence [remembrance?] 2b 370 APPENDIX A. of the piety towards the gods. The expenses of the inscrip- tion to be borne by the Committee of the council-hall." This inscription forms a sequel to the foregoing decree, which,, we are informed, is to be written both on the walls of the por- tico of the temple of Serapis, and in the porch of the council- hall, — ^the locality in which the stones still are. In the temple of Hecate there is to be placed a column, having written on it not the whole decree, but only ra SiaepovTa, Inscription 21), i. e, such passages of it as concern the temple (from line 15 of the preceding inscription). No. 94.— Built into a wall. KATAZN n EPTI2N AH MOZIXIN^ nOAEI2ZKAPIZMONTINnNAN^ mMENOPOAOrEINTHNA^ ZINHMEINMENANIZnZHE*^ NATOZAEANOMnZKAKEI^ TOYZAHMOZrArKYPIOYZM/^ AHMOZIXINYPOKEIMEN^ El NTOYZENOZEKAZTOY^ ©EAOI ENTHZPOAEHZOYA^ AHZTH AZEPEI P IX2N ETOI M£IZAM P POAAN EIZMOIZI AlilNTXlN I £M TilOS NATOYTOIAeYPAAAArH^ This fragment may be read thus : — Ka [t] TaZ AHZAIONY HOOLAH. No. 99. Page 88.— On a marble block. The inscription may be read thus : — Aiow(Tiov AvTOPfopa Vohiov, Mevea-rpaTt], Aiovvaiov, PoSta, tov irarpo TTVpyiaKO) T60r)vat, /le- Ta TO evTOxjyijvai avTqv' 15 etrei 6 deif nva a<7e- ^T)9 60-T0) ^6019 /caralj^-] 0OVIOK icai eKTo TO) TeX- /j/rjffaeaiv &j- 20 /*» M ^. - Published by Dr. Clarke, Travels, vol. iii. p. 306, with trans- TELMESSUS. 375 lation and notes by the late eminent Prof. Porson, who main- tained that the inscription was older than Ol. 100 (381-377 be- fore our sera). This is doubted by Prof. H. J. Rose, Inscrip. Graec. Vetust.j p. 318, especially on the ground that the charac- teristic iota of the dative, which is nowhere to be seen in the inscription, was scarcely ever missed before the above period. There are, besides, other reasons justifying the opinion that the inscription was written in Roman times. Line 2, Dr. Clarke's transcript has lAEONOC. "On the stone, the letter which begins this word and the one at the end of the preceding are joined into a monogram, which presents two N's. Line 7, Porson reads /cat oylre axjrrjv eveffayfrev; but the reading given above, km oli avrri eveday^ev, appears distinctly in our transcript. Oh, which by the usual attraction stands instead of TOUTot? ou?, is quite in accordance with the dative AiroXkioviSri, and the reading is altogether more simple than the other. The S after AnroXKoaviZr) being distinct in both transcripts, may be taken as signifying rerpaKK (see AvprjXia Kfifiuvi Zijj/wvo? S, Boeckh, 2'Jf4:); the genitive which usually follows these adverbs being left out, since ApoUonides' four ancestors had the same name (see Inscription 89). Line 20, Dr. Clarke, instead of our E, i. e. 5000, according to the general rules of Greek nume- ration, has IE, which would make the fine only 15 denaria. No. 102. — On the side of a door of a Roman-like tomb, ONHCOPOCA AICTOYAAEZA APOYTONHYPn CKONTOYTONKA TEZKAYACENE AYTnYjrHI-Y NAIJYUAM MIAAFAenNYMe 376 APPENDIX A. KAYTOICTEKNOIC KAiroiccvrrE NEEINONHZI " Onesphorus . . ., grandson of Alexander, has built this turret p. e. tomb] for himself and his wife Ammias, the daughter of Agathonymus, and his children, and the kinsfolk of Ones- phorus." The translation takes the last two lines as KAI TOIZ ZYF- TENEZIN ONHZ^opou. No. 103. — On a rock-tomb. APICTEIAOYTOY ANAKTOC KAITtA)NKAHY OMrNAYTOY Apia-TeiSov, rov Ava«To? Kai Tcov KXij^pov] o/icov [?] avTov. Published by Dr. Clarke, Travels, vol. iii. p. 3l7j with line 2 less perfect. AvaicTO';, unless it be a proper name, may give rise to some speculations, ascribed as it is to a name borne by the illustrious Athenian, and also by a celebrated orator who lived in the times of the Antonines, iElius Aristides. The Greeks, after Homei', called a king ^aNHIATOIZE¥ CYNOYKAOI EEEAYTOYN May be read thus : — .... Karea-Kevaaev ro \jivrj]fJ^tov tovto Ev0/3ocr[wo9] .... ivov [lai/JTO) re Kai [Zjeoa-i/ico kul ^t\aj07e[T7;?] ' Kai AiXia Kai Tlpetfiai/t] Kai E[ip]7]vta, rot? Eii^[/3o-] awov Ka[t] [T]ot9 ef avrovv. " EuphrosynuSj son of , has built this monument for himself, and Zosimus, and Philargetes, and ^lia, and Primaea, and Irenia, the children of Euphrosynus, and their offspring." Avrovv, instead of avreov, if I am right in reading the last line, is very remarkable. 378 APPENDIX A. No. 107- — On the mullion of a rock-tomb. ■'///j»./m./m JiElONArOJ ^NTOYTOY A.AIAAJJ //AMTW-LMJA MMO\MM. xnHTMMM KAI' m./M/M rXlYGI/ M'AIEO/ €PM€M. TOYCrA^ MEPOIMH OKPATY AHCCCICC UM\OMM rHA€YeH HMIOTOJ TOTOYM.M. In the last line but four we may read KriSevdr/, which shows that this inscription, probably a fragment, is funereal. No. 108. — On the side of the portico of an Ionic rock-tomb. ^POIMAAIO^ M\M '^HKMMMMPMMM TELMESSUS. 379 ZIA€PMAJJJIIANa TONYONAYIiCHPCo NAMNHMHJ.HI^N/i In the last line there seems to be fivrf/iTj^ x"/"''? " for the sake of remembrance." No. 109. — Built into the wall of the castle, near the door- E^A<^POAEITOC AFAeonOAOCTH MHCEEYCEAAION CYNYWPHCWOAPe AAIANEOCTOYEIIM NAIOYTOYTOTON<|> MEtONNKAinAPAKA WTATEKNAMOie NAIENEMETAAETHA EMHNTEAEYTHNEI NArTHNEZOYCIANI WNTEKNWNMOYE/i I \TETirrOYTWNA y»ATHCEirEAYTOY KOIIIHLTKINNH WEENTIMOAP HPHCHEE niTHES'HIEeHHN NNOETICANAYTW INWMHNOETWIH nOAEIAHNAPAIAN Theinscription can be read but imperfectly. At the begin- ning, E7ra^/3o8etTo?, AyadoiroSo^, 'TeKfiffjaarevi ; line 7 — 12, 380 APPENDIX A. [jj,vrj]neiov, Kat irapaKcCKco ra reieva fiov Oeivai e/ie /xera Be rriv efi7]v TeXevrrjv etvai Tqv e^ovaiav rmv reicvosv fiov; lines 1? and 18j \ayvx](opr)a-7) eiri,rpe<^r) ; at the end, T17 TroXet Srjvapaia v. This shows the inscription to be funereal ; in line 3, however, we cannot but read eXaiov (rvvxioprjau, which, unless we take e\aiov {oil) for a dialectic form of eXaicov {olive-grove), is totally unintelligible. The letters OAP0 (hne 4) are the only ones which have on the stone their common round shape, all the other O and being square. No. 110. — On a pedestal in the wall. nOAEMilAA AZX1NA0APNAIOY ONEAYTOVn KAIMEPIMAYAZAMAYZAO TONEAYTHZANAPAJ HAOZTOPriAZZNBEON M.MTHTE\T.MiM.M.M. The stone being cemented in several places, the inscription was copied with great difficulty. In the last line but three we have Tov eavriys avSpa; in the, following there seems to be ^SiffTov (Tvv^iov, which shows the inscription to be funereal. No. 111. — On a rock-tomb. ANTI IXOY OICTOY APNA KOY TOMNHMEION TELMESSUS. 381 "The monument of Antiphichus [Antiochus?], twice [i.e. grandson] of Pharnaces." The letter beginning line 3, is taken as A. No. 112. — On a rock-tom^). AIOTEIMOYTOY TAHnOAEMOYKAl AIOTEIMOYAICTOY TAHnOAEMOYHPOrONIKON " The hereditary tomb of Diotimus, son of Tlepolemus, and of Diotimus, grandson of Tlepolemus." PubUshed by Dr. Clarke, Travels, III. p. 316, who refers to Maffei Mus. Veron. 59, for an explanation of the [ijpwov] •TrpoyoviKov. No. 113. — On a rock-tomb. TOYTOMNMMMM nPOLONMKONVEMTS. KAIAYKAIY May be partly read thus : tovto /j,vrjfj,eiov "n-poyoviKov ean . KM Aw/eat [o] I/. " The family-tomb of ... . and J^ycaeus." No. 1 14. — On a rock-tomb. TIBEPIOYKAAYAI YHEPrAMOY Published by Dr. Clarke, 1. c, who has an O at the beginning of line 2. " [The tomb] of Tiberius Claudius Pergamus." 382 APPENDIX A. No. 115. — On a rock-tomb >-< ETOYZZM H NOZAnOYA HATH ITOYTOAOKEN H I nOAIZ May perhaps be read thus : — eT0W9 fj /i»7Vo? Acoov 8[e] \_K']aT7}, rovTo S[a)]«ev ^ . . -ttoXk}. " In the year 60, on the tenth of the month Lous, has the city given this." The name of Lous is to be found in several almanacs of Asia, and also in that of the Macedonians, in which it is given to the tenth month, of thirty-one days, beginning on June 24. The sera of this date cannot be ascertained. It seems not to be the ^ra Seleucidanmi, which was the principal one in Syria, begin- ning 313 before Christ. Beside this, and the ^ra Pompejana (from 63 or 62 B.C.), Caesariana (47 or 46 B.C.), Actiaca (30 B.C.), there were in the different cities of Syria, and no doubt of Roman Asia generally, different ^ras of minor repute, beginning from the years in which the cities had severally been declared free by the Romans. (See Eckhel, D.N. IV. 399. Ideler Handb. d. Chronolog., I. p. 457.) We may thus begin the Lycian sera with the year 169 B.C., when the country was, by a decree of the Roman Senate, emancipated from the dominion of the Rhodians (Liv. XLIV. 16. Appian. Syr. 44.), or with the year 83 B.C., when Lycia was again declared free and an ally of the Roman nation by Sylla (Appian. Mithridat. 61.). No. 116. — On a sarcophagus, by the side of a bas-relief. Published by Dr. Clarke, Travels, III. p. 306, who reads AHMHTPIO in line 2. The only words which we may de- cipher with any certainty, both from his and our transcript, are in line 3 [TrpjoeaTTi a[7]wv[a)v] ; in line 4 there may be ra KoKXiara. CADYANDA. 383 CADYANDA. No. 117. Page 122. — On a tomb. This funereal inscription may partly be read thus : — TO /ivrjfieiov KaTeaKevacr[ev J kaurq Kai duyarpt icai ey\_yovoi^ xai rot? ef 6770-] veov fiov yevwidrjaofievoi'S' kclKco .... eav Be rts ets/StaoTyrat . . . WTroreicrei K[aS]i»aj'Sea>i' 5 TO) hrffuo ^ ^. The KAAH of lines seems to be similar to the nAPAKAATl of inscription 109 ; in which we have also the pronoun of the first person. No. 118.— On a tomb. APTEMnN APTEI MOYTOYAHMH TPIOYKATECKEYACEN " Artemo, son of Artimus, the son of Demetrius, has built it. No. 119. — On the same. T//AM./mH KOI EZKEYAZENi n^^KOZAYTOKAHEK/iKAIAAIYJIKIA IAJ^KAITYNAIKIAYTOYKAITEKNOUireO EZ^/ITM KAIfllTnTANnAYTOYON I IOIX2KAI Tf2Z€ZAYTOYrEII2AEOYAEN r May partly be read thus : — To[/ivr)/iei]ov K[aT]ei\[a>] Kai ywaiKi avrov xai Te/cvoi<; .... .... Kai reo eyyovco avrdir 6fiouo[^'\ Kai To[i}<{ e^ avrov aXXm [?] Se QvSevi, 384 APPENDIX A. In line 2, if the conjecture be right, the children are men- tioned before the wife, which is extraordinary; then another person, who shared in the property of the tomb, may have been mentioned, whose offspring is spoken of in the last lines. No, 120.— On a tomb, ZilMEN ZOZOYZEI NOAYKOYKA AH KATEZKEYAZEnrOMI M ElOl EAYTH KITOU^AY TMMKMTMX-ONTY IAHTi2KAIAIONHKAITHOZ wM/M/M.m.mm/./mjm./m./m. MOYKAI ENHN I ^V^OTLMIAM.////, Ennrz TAYTAHAIHEH EANAETIZHAPA EZTI2eEOZYNAIONKAieZIZKATAKTONIOIZXZEPKZ May partly be read thus : — ■ Z(B/tl6v[l7] 'EpfwXvKov Karea-Kevaa-ev ro /Jtlyrj-I /jLeiov eavrr) «[a]t TOt[? Te/cvot<; at;-] 5 t[979] Kai, TOiY OEY No. 124. Page 125. — On a round pedestal, dug out of the road near Hoorahn. The inscription may be read thus : — AvprjXioi; S[Te-] \. Kao-o-iou A[€«tov?] M.apKei,avov. " [The gate ? was erected] under the most splendid and ad- mirable governor. Flavins Cassius Decius [?] Marcianus." Published in Mr. Fellows' Journal, p. 239, where in line 2 we have KA instead of KA^- 2c2 388 APPENDIX A. No. 128. — Built into a wall, the stone broken. EN n PHTAN Eini AN APAAfAeONEE EONeTANAIAIAnPOEONilNEYEPrE TH NTOYAH MOYKANTOAAATUN N MSPONTnN KAITAM EfNTA POZAOHAN KATEPPAZM ENON niAHMniKAITillAYKIIlNEONEI MENTOIZnOAEMOIZETANABnZ rXlN IZAM ENON KAI APIZTEYZAN TAKAIAIATHIHZANTATOYZT p,,^Q MOYZKAITHNFATNON ^^ ^^p^^, ANAHEPATEMONAA A.ABTOYrPOnO L ^2L_r- lAOAOZnZKAIMI EAAOMEPnZKAIENnAZHTHinOAEI TEI AKAI KAKOrAGOIZKAl EriTYXIlIZ KAI Ar KAI KilZAN AZTPEOM ENON The inscription may partly be read thus : — ev TrprjTaveuo avSpa ayaOov re eovra \jc\ai Sia Trpoyovtov evepye- TTjv Tov hrjfiov, Kai ttoWu rmv [cr] vfiipepovTcov xai ra fieyurra 5 [7r]/3os Bo^av Karepyaa-fievov [t](b Srjfio) Kai Tco Avkcojv edver [ev] fiev Toi<; TroXe/iot? eTravSpw? [ajyavia-a/ievov Kai apia-revaav- ra Kai Siarrjprjo'avTa tovavepa .... Sta jSiow .... [^lyKaho^ca Kai fjke- yaXo/jLepmi} Kai ev iraaT] rrj iroXei- Teia . . . KoKoKw^adtoi Kai eTrtrvvw? 15 Kai hiKauoi; avaarpediofievovi TLOS. 389 " [It was resolved to honour] in the Prytaneum , being a good man, and, like his ancestors, a benefactor of the People ; having done us considerable services, and the greatest things towards his honour among the People and the Lycian nation ; having in the wars contested manfully, and excelled, and ob- served the laws and democracy , and [functioned] gloriously and liberally, and conducted himself in the common- wealth honourably and fortunately and righteously." Ti.p7)Taveiov instead of Trpyraveiov is not found elsewhere : to substitute rj for v is enumerated by Sturz (De Dial. Maced., p. 121) among the peculiarities of the Alexandrian dialect, and the Etym, M. p. 608, declares VJ709 instead of vuo? to be ^olic. No. 129.— In a wall. AKAH M APKOZIZTO Jl 1 1 AHTHNOAnNHrEMONAAZ EKKAIAEKATHZ<|)AAYIAZIP EKTHZZIAHPAZEHAEYOHA ZTPATinri Kovn pezbeyth po ZTPATH rON AYTOKPATOPOZAYKAI KAmAK<|)YAIAZAZNi2AIKAIOAOTI TAHEIlNHBOYAHKAIHrEPOYZIA KAIOAKMOY The inscription may partly be read thus : — [eTTt/ie-] X7]Tr}v 6h(ov, ■fj'^efiova Xe [yewvos] eKKaiSeKaTT}!} ^Xavia<; tjO [/ii;?] , ex Ti?? 'Zihrjpa'i, e'rraljpypv] et;0j;v[tas] 5 o-TpaTtwTt/eo [v] trpea^eiiTTfly], a-Tparryyov AvroKparopof A.VKia\ii\ Kai TiafJi^vXtai;. 'Ajvco SiKauiSoTr) Tkmecov 17 ^ovKr) Kai rj ryepovo'ta Kai 6 Srjfioi;. 390 APPENDIX A. " a Commissioner of roads, Commander of the six- teenth legion, Flavia Firma, and the sixth, Ferrata, Inspector of the supply of corn. Military Legate, Imperial Governor of Lycia and Pamphylia. To the upright administrator of justice, the Council and the Elders and the People of the Tloeans." The Roman governor, to whom the corporation of Tlos paid their gratitude, had formerly been Curator Viarum (line 2) and Pretfectus Annonce (line 4). The former office, to judge from many Roman and some Greek (for instance. Chandler, p. 92, vii.) inscriptions, was conferred on young men of good family ; the latter, which was certainly one of great trust, is less frequently mentioned. Tliere was an ewap'Xpi; evdijveiai; in Egypt, the great granary of Rome ; and the word ev0r}vta, which properly means abundance, is seen on several coins of that country : an c7rifieXr]Tr)<; ev6r)vta d o: z o o HI > t z ^ 111 ij ^ 111 ii; id O O S O p uj £ !^ M h u 5 2 lu b z z ui < < < UJ u ^ Z2S5^ liaiz t < h >- 5 y "^ 2 ? o h 5: 0. < X h I ui o ■A 3 's.'Sb b to 8 c L_J "^ w s s o S -3 S -e- 3 Wfl ^ a. ^ _ 3 § ;^ *. 3: 3 '^'03 ^ 3 O . 3 3 t- 8 3 b S3 (u b -e- P- o I- ^ 3 g I a. <1 "S- - c pq r 8 Si P- -e- 8 I- i 8 i& s < S s P- POAEITOZAPMAIZB TOYA NTIOXOYAPM AlZr M EN EKAHZM EN EKAEOY EniGYMHTOZEIPHNAlOY TAliEIZEYTYXHZIAZONOZ ePEHTOZN I rPEI N I ANOYZTA ZIGEMIAOZAYZHTIKOZArPin n El NOYTOYKAIZTAZieEM I AOZ TIAAYIOZeAAAMOZTAX2 NEIKHNAAIAAAOYEIIEYZ '^AYTOIZKAirYNAIZIKAl " [The following] have built the Heroum : Ulpius Epaphro- ditus , son of Antiochus ; Menecles, son of Me- necles ; Epithymetus, son of Irenseus, citizens of Tlos ; Euty- chesj son of lason, foster-child of Nigrinianus Stasithemis ; Auxeticus, son of Agrippinus, also called Stasithemis; Ti. Fla- vius Thalamus, citizens of Tlos ; Nico, son of Daedalus, citizen of J for themselves and their wives and ." The translation leaves out the words APMAIZ B and AP- MAIZ r of lines 3 and 4 ; they do not belong to the general context. In the list of barbarous words prefixed to the Thes. Ling. Graec. of Stephanus, we find ap/iapiov or ap/iapiov, epfia- piov, derived probably from the Latin armarium, which we might take here in the general signification of compartment, thinking that, like the preceding, this inscription belonged to a tomb in which the compartments were lettered. This explana- tion is indeed not free from objections. APMAIZ occurs in no other inscription copied in this neighbourhood. TLOS. 395 No. 134. — Over the door of a rock-toinb. OYANAPOEIOYAAEZANAPniL^^^ KAIZIKOYAEINO AAEZANAPEnATIOZAAHAOYHAjnTATI^J^JNAPflBTOY ZTEANOYAAIAAAnTi2KAIEI<|>ITnKAAOKAIPi2ArPIHIEINOY ^TOYKAYZTAZieEMIAOZAPTEIMAAPTEIMOYEYTYXIANH EYTYXEOYZKAAYeYEIAIAZnPOKAHZEYTYXEIKAAYOYEIAAZ nPOKAHZnEYTYXEIZYNEXnPHeHAOYNAIEZnTIKOIZZYNXn PHMAMONOIZONOMAZINEZOIZANBOYAHTAIMHEnOMENHZ MHTEAYTOMHTrOIZZYNYllPEirENEAZMHAEN^JAEEXEIN The inscription may partly be read thus : — ov AvSpoaiov, AXe^avSpm Kai "^iKovXeivca [AXe^a] vS/ao) /S tov "SiTe^avov, AatSaXXoi ra Kai E[w]^[t;]T(», KaXoxatpra Ar/piirireivov TOV KUi 'ZTacridefiijSo';, Apreifia Apreifiov, ^VTUj(iavr} 5 EvTiri^eous KXav. OveiKia<; TLpoKXrj?, EuTu^^et KXav. Owet\[t]a? TLpoKXrjg' d) [?] EuTt;^et (Twe')((op7]6rj, Sovvat e^coTiKOtii awj((o- pr]fia, fiovoK ovofJMiriv, e^, olH^HeA S'AITINAETE PONHOEI GEINTHnOAl KOMOII2Z OYAEETEPOZ TizEznri KOZEZOYZ ANEEEIGA YAITINAHO <|>EIAHZEITH TAHEXlNnO AEIXAX2N OEAENEAZ AHNS'ETAI TOTPITON HAEEHI rPAHAY THKAIHAZ MAEIAANA rErPAHTAr AlATflNAHMO ZiriNrPAMMA TOYAAKI fiNEniAPXIE PEPEOZTUN ZEBAZTUN TAIOYIOYAI OYHAIOAX2 nOYTOYKAl TLOS. 397 'H Se eTTi- ypa^ av- 25 tt; km f) aa- (fjaXeia ava- yeypairtai St-a rcov hrffio- auov jpa/Mfia- 30 To^vKaKi- a>v, 67rt apyie- peopv- crai, avvev- Ta^\yaC\ if 6a- "^ai riva ere- pov, 7) o(jiet 10 [Xjetv tt; 7ro\[e]6 H ^ 'Ofiouoi ovSe erepo? Ti€ ,K^, d)v 20 o eXevfa? \i7 [/i] i^erat TO TplTOV. "None of us shall have leave of giving permission to a stranger to be buried with [us], or burying there another; or he shall owe to the city 500 denaria. Likewise, no stranger shall have leave to bury [there another], or he shall owe to the city of the Tloeans 1500 denaria, of which he that proves [the trespass] shall receive one-third. This declaration and the con- firmation he in the public archives, written under the High- priest of the Augusti, Cajus Juhus Heliodorus, also called Dio- phantus." We observe that most of the tombs of this city have been constructed for the use of the dead of several families, which may account for their more than usual magnificence. 398 APPENDIX A. No. 136. — Over the inner door of a rock-tomb. MEZHKAEINH^KAAYAIOYimi "The middle couch [to be the property] of Claudius, and that on the right " No. 137. — On the side of the door of a rock-tomb. KAITAYO^AAEM MOYTH KAITZnjOIZAYTOY 'MM/ 'MffM/Mf/M/mM^ Line 2 seems to have conteiined the name of the wife, and those after the third the names of the children of the proprietor. No. 138. KI2NKAI AirPAM No. 139. NTIZT EAPOZ IKIAZKA OIEPOZY MAIIIN IZMH NOYZ TLOS. 399 No. 140. — In a wall. NOEE PX2MAI ON En I 2TO KAI In line 2 we see the name of the Romans, which we may read also in the preceding inscription. No. 141, — On a large rock-tomb. "The monument of Eperastus, son of Philocles, a citizen of Tlos, and of his wife Nannis, and of his heir Soteris, daughter of Eperastus, and of her descendants in succession, and of those to whom she may give leave herself, as [she did] also to her husband Zeno [?], and her foster-sister. But for nobody else it shall be lawful to be buried with [us], besides myself and my heir Soteris permitting it, since he who gives leave shall owe to the People of the Tloeans 1000 denaria, of which he that proves [the trespass] shall receive one-half." The female name of iiavr), from which Navw? (line 1) may be derived, occurs in an inscription published by Walpole, Travels, p. 557. The change from the genitive into the dative (line 1) is remarkable. 400 APPENDIX A. < Z Z < z z >< o < < < _ < < C! UJ Ul UJ < o < a. r < a. UJ C UJ Z g UJ Z z g < C! O z O UJ X < h < c z « z I h < Q. < z < Z w p < z UJ z < z Ul < ^ UJ UJ UJ o a- h Cj Z z z < i z I < < HI z r- l*" C < UJ ui < < K. X z o z 2 X z I o z iii Ul < V o z Ul < z « UJ Z UJ > O < X a. CJ X z o : s o I 1 t/- ■i i 3 o h b 8 3 3 o o o l- s TS sj a) Si V r I o 3 I I •I N I- ^ i 5 . ?:■ I — 1 a ^ b 'I (u -e- . o b 2- fc '" f 8 f< ^ J ft. "O ^.| ? *Jji I* tu" ft. a 3 i I 3 u; :^ r 's r 8 8 I « 3 I— I 1 o I s a O e^ ■* o C UJ O z I < c LJ < < < ■e- o Q. ^- < Q. LU 1 < o > Z o u < u UJ L UJ u 2 o o I- z o a. < z E z Q. UJ > O < z < < UJ N Ui u O z O z o UJ z z z o u UI o u < < < h u UJ HI UJ Z UJ i < s ul t; h < Z < z 2 UJ C = Si$5 u I h < < Z Q- _ UJ UJ rr. ^ UJ < ai Z C{ X C! A < HI z UJ < u O I Z z < z g z !n UJ < UJ X X r V » S fe r— I M o w 2 «/• 4 I: 1^ I I ^"^ ^ I I e s ^ ° ■ « 3 = i ^ ■-• I S 3 *- I— I . o e: So o CSl S- §. 3 •^ A 9 1 — I . oo - - < W -J. I — o set' oo I 8 ^ ■— ' =^ s- §- 3 b Ul b * o g- o h o . -e- o o § ' — ' P^ s- §■ 3 o a er 2~ t: " o g- c/> a H S 3 P "t- t ;^ o h o t- & -3 Ul 8" Ul 2d 402 APPENDIX A. "This monument was added by Claudius Hermas, foster-father of Claudia Platonis, a woman of Pinara .... according to the cession made to him by Cajus Licinius Hermacopus, a citizen of Pinara, which was written down under the high-priest Pati- braeus on the 7th of the month Daesius. Only Claudius Hermas himself and his wife Synesis shall have leave to be buried in the monument ; to another it shall not be permitted to bury [one there] in any way. But he who buries , be he a criminal unto the Gods of Hell, and let him owe to the People of the Pinareans a thousand denaria, of which he that proves [the trespass] shall receive one-third." The month Dsesius was the eighth both in the Syro-Mace- donian and Ephesian almanacs, and in the latter had thirty days, beginning on April 14th. No. 143. Page 144.— On a pedestal. No. 144. Page 145. — On the mullion of a rock-tomb. The inscription may be read thus : — To fivr]ij,eiov AvrfTrarpov, Si<} Tov UiaeSapov, ev 0} ^e^ovXrjTat, 5 ra^vai fiera ro a7ro;8t(B<7at [?] ia[v]Tov re Kai T-qv '^xJvaiKa MaXav Btr- mvo?. Eav Se rt? e- 10 'iri/)(eipri(Trj erepov Oa^ai, o^etXecrei TQ> Tiivapetuv St}- fi(o Bufvapia irev- PINARA. 403 raKotria, a^ mv to 15 rpiTov o eXev^a? Xij/i'yjrerai. Towto km Sia rmv apyeiotv SeSn^Xmrai. O Se irapa ra yeypa/ifjbeva ti •jrot7)tTdOV SIDYMA. No. 151. — Upon a pedestal. AIIHAinSEPAniAl KAAYAIOZArPI H H AZ ■ To Zeus Helios Serapis, Claudius Agrippa." No. 152. — On a tomb with triglyphs. AAYIOZAPMAKHZ OAAYIANNANMHN SIDYMA. 407 THNOYFATEPA ^/i^APXIZIATEYZAZAN MMENZEPAZmN KAITEIMHOEIZAN TAIZnPIlTAIZTEIMAIZ VnOTOYEGNOYZKAITHZ nOAEnZKAIYE^J KAITAIZAE ZHZAZANZ KAIENAOZI2 The inscription may be read thus : — ^Xaviav Naj'[v]'J/v TTjv dvyarepa ap')(i,epaTeva-axrav [?] 5 [twJv %e^aaT(ov Kai rei./iijdetaav rail TrpcoTaii Teifiat<; VTTO rov eQvovi Kai riys TToXeo)? Kai .... 10 Kai TainE YAlANOYTOYEYEPfF This fragment may partly be read thus : — "Ze^aarmv .... [/M?T/307r-] oKeof Tov AvKimv e6[yov<;, tt/s tto-] \eos fifiMiv. KXauSta Tt . . . [/cara] hiadrjieqv aTrakei^6e[j,(Tav vtto . . . ] 5 vKiavav rov €vepye[Tov]. It records a donation made to the gods or the people by Claudia, according to a will left by a citizen, whom the Xan- thians call their benefactor. 412 APPENDIX A. No. 165. Page 167. — On a pedestal. The inscription may be read thus : — ['IepaTew]ve<; €7nTe\ea-devTeEAE HCEniTOMHAENAETE PONTEGHNAIEIMHMONON eYrATEPAAYTflNAArNAN EANAETICETEPONSAH'H AnOAO¥NAIAVONTfllEPn TATOTAMEinj^Rd) The inscription may be read thus : — KXavSiov BiirrjlpJcDTOv toi» iapj^t [a-] rpov fcai KXavBia^ A0. 'EXe[»'-] 1JS eiri t\o}] fj/rjSeva ire- pov Tedrjvai, ei /j/tj fiovov 5 ffvyarepa avrcav Alejaivav. TSiav 8e rt? erepov ffayjrrj, a/jToSoiryai av[T]ov reo iepa- TaTft) rafieiQ) 4(, ^B4> [?]. " of Claudius Eperotus, the Archiater, and Claudia Appia Helena, with the intention that no other be put there, except their daughter Leaena. But if one bury another [there, he is] to give to the most sacred treasury 2500 [?] denaria." The office of Archiater is mentioned in Nos. 56 and 80. Etts TO) (line 3) serves to explain e^' w of No. 46. XANTHUS. 415 o 1 1 tj. r J s K s g §■ g < ^ s ^ « Ph ■a a 0) s ■ l-l ui -a 25 UI < ^ ^ ^ ON ^ - a> 2 k > T 2 .° S i 2 : i^ -S I y^h g §■>? -Sea f f ^ '^ O) S g g S Z 2 g -^ S . „ S S t 'I- ^^ >- UJ >> 'S M ^ < h < g ;^ -g. 416 APPENDIX A. PATARA. No. 169 In the theatre, AYTOKPATOPIKAIZAPieEOYAAPIANOYYineEOYTPAIANOY n APei KOYYIilNIieEOYN EPOYAErrONIlTITIlAI AiriAAPI ANIl ANTHNEINnZEBAZTXlEYZEBErAPXIEPEIMEriZTnAHMAPXIKHZ EZOYZIAZTolYnATIlToAnATPmATPIAOZKAieEOIZ ZEBAZTOIZKATolZnATPnOIZeEOIZKAITHrAYKYTATH nATPIAITHnATAPEXlNnOAEITHMHTPOnOAEITOY AYKIilNEeNOYZOYEIAIAKoOYEIAIOYTITIANOYGYrATHP nPOKAA nATAPIZ ANEGHKEN KAIKAeiEPnZENTOTEnPOZKHNIONOKATEZKEYAZEN EKeEMEAiriNOnATHPAYTHZKOOYEIAIOZTITIANOZ KAITON EN AYTflKOZMON KAITAH EPI AYTOKAITH NTI2N ANAPIANTflN KAIAfAAMATflN ANAZTAZIN KAITHNTOYAOrEIOYKATAZKEYHN KAI nAAKnZINAEnOIHZENAYTHTOAEENAEKATON toyaeytepoyaiazhmatozbagponkaitabhaa TOYeEATPOYKATAZKEYAZeENTAYnOTETOY nATPOZ AYTHZ KAIYHAYTHZ nPOANETEOHKAinAPEAOeHKATATAYnOTHZKPATIZTHZ BOYAHZE4'HrZM EN A " To the Emperor Caesar, the son of the god Hadrianus, the grandson of the god Trajanus, the Parthic, the great grand- son of the god Nerva, Titus iElius Hadrianus Antonius Pius, Augustus, Pontifex Maximus, in the tenth year of his tribunitial power, having been Consul four times, the father of the father- land, and to the Gods, the Augusti and the Penates, and to her dearest native city, Patara, the metropolis of the Lycian nation, Velia Proeula, daughter of Q. Velius Titianus, a woman of Pa- tara, has given this, and has consecrated the proscenium, which her father, Gl. Velius Titianus, built from the foundations, and the ornament upon it and the things belonging to it, and the PATARA. 417 erection of statuea and sculptures, and the building of the Logeion and the incrustation of it [i.e. with marble], which things she pro\'ided herself; but the eleventh step of the second diazoma, and the awnings of the theatre, which were provided by her father and herself, were already dedicated and delivered over according to the decree of the excellent Council." Copied by Mr. Cockerell, and published by Walpole, Travels, p. 535, who makes the following remarks : "By the Oeat Trarpmoi (line 5) are meant the Roman Penates, according to Cic. pro Sulla: Dii Patrii et Penates. See Perizon. ad -^lian., I. p. 264. The Roman pulpitum was larger than the Greek Logeion (line 13). This served as a stage to the actors only, whilst in the pulpitum musical performances and dancing also took place. The nXaKtotrt?, incrustation with marble "(line 14), is explained by Vales, ad Euseb. 205 : "Marmoreas crustas irXaKa^ vocabant." The pieces of marble were fixed to the walls by metal hooks and nails. The diazoma (line 15) is mentioned in our No. 19. This name, corresponding to tlae prtecinctio of the Roman theatres, is given to the large open lobbies, by which the seats of the spectators were divided into several tiers. BijXa (Une 15), i.e. Latin vela, occurs in an inscription of Aphrodisias, Boeckh, 2758. No. 170. — Upon a bracket on the archway. MMMMHON POY<|)ON/^ MMMSnATEPAM EMT J MOAEZTOYHrE MONOZJAYKIXIN TOKOINON The inscription may partly be read thus : — 2e 418 APPENDIX A. . . . trov Pow^ov Trarepa Mefi/i- [tou ?] MoSearov ^ye- flOVOi} AvKtMV 5 TO KOIVOV. " Rufus, father of Memmius [?] Modestus ; the Governor, the nation of the Lycians [honours him] ." No. 171. Page 180. — Upon the door of a Lycian tomb. No. 172. Page 180. — On a large round pedestal. The inscription may be read thus : — Te/i . . . [n]\aT<»vo9 Tlarapei Kai 'Savduo, 7ro\eiTev<7afie- vm he Ka[i\ ev rai.<} Kara AvKiav iroKeai iraarav<;, rrjy oKAiei2 PAKOZnATAPIAOZ " The monument of Ptolemaeus, son of Nicolaus, the son of Polycrates, a citizen of Patara, and of his wife Sarpedonis, also called Lycia, daughter of Ptolemaeus twice, who is also called Thorax, a woman of Patara." The name of Sarpedonis calls to mind the Lycianhero cele- brated by Homer ; a citizen of Tlos, called Sarpedon, is men- tioned in an inscription in Mr. Fellows's Journal, p. 239. In the last line but one TO stands undoubtedly for TOY. Thorax seems to be the second name of Lycia's father, not that of her grandfather or great-grandfather. Nos. 174 to 180. — On seven stones of the same size. Azziiz errAi oy kay ON KATE YAZE ON TON ZE2 AP "TC AZ AAYA 2 E 2 420 APPENDIX A. To judge from line 2, [/ivr)/jiei]ov Karela-Kejvaa-e, etc., these scraps belonged to a funereal inscription. ANTIPHELLUS. No. 181. Page 185.— On a tomb. No. 182. Page,186.— On a tomb. The inscription may be read thus : — To fivrffieiov KareaKevacraro EtTi;;^a)- V, XoyiarevTrj's [?] tov a^toXoywraTou Map. Aw/4. IlToXe/ita [t] ov eXOovTog A, Av- TM^eWetTou, 6a[v]T(» Kai yvvaiKi avTov [?] 5 Ei/TToXet Kav TeKvoi<; avTcov [ic]ai oi^ av [f](»9 av eTnTpeyjrco. ■ I? Se to viroaopiov evKrjhevOrjaovrai, ra Opeina avrov [?]. AWft) Se /JLT) [?] e^earco evKrjSevcrai, ti- va?. ['O Se 7r]apa ravra irotTjcra's a;ita/3T[a)]Xo? ]0 [e]OI KATOI_N EKAN M JACAHTIOXOYANTI^CAAEITI C AIIAZnNBMHTPOZAPT€MIJAnEPAEITHCCAYTOICKAI rYN^ZINAYTf2NKAIT€KN.rr KAirYNAIZIN'^N€KNnN HMnM.MSANK/KTANOMONEMMMHeO/m'NAAAOEAEOyAeiC ENKHAE Y€HCETAIEIMONONJ/^/ijrPAHM€NOIEANAETIC TOAMHCJICNKHAEYEAITJ^JEYGYNOZECTAITOIZAIA TneEIIlNAIA^^JJXlN^JXlPIZMENOIC The inscription may be read thus : — Toy Tou^ov Karea-KevaKOv Kweuvs [?], Avrtoj^oii, AvrKpeWeirrji} [«-] at laacov /8, /ii/r/aos Aprefiiov [?], Avn^eXKecTt}!; avroi^ Kai yvvai^iv avreov xat reKvoif Kai yvvai^iv [t] cov reKvcov riiMoly Kai ot]? av Kara vo/jlov [avvxmp'jrjcroljjLe'jv. AXXo? Se ovSeti 5 €vicr}Sev07}(reTat, ei fwvov [ol irpoyejypafi/jjevoi. Eav Se ti9 re icai, tt]^ e7ra/3j(;6[t-] a9, Tov evepyerrjv Trj<; irarpiSo'i r) ^ovKt) Kat 6 St]/j,o<;' rrjv avacrra- (Tiv Troirja-afievij'i 15 AvTwvta? Aptff-TT/s Aa- Si\X7)<; [?], T7J9 eyjovT]!; avrou ex Tcov tSiwv. HIERAPOLIS. 425 ANTHNIANON (lines 3 and 4) stands undoubtedly, as it does in a great many inscriptions, instead of ANTflNINI- ANON, owing either to an oversight of the stonecutter, or to an euphonic change. On the coins of Byzantium the games AvTcoveia 'Ze^aIMOC CMYPNAIOC BOYA€YTHC KAI €YnOCI APXHC KAI nPYTANIC HfOPACA TO HPnO[N] KAI THN COPON nPOC[H]rOPACA KAT€CK€Y ACA[C] AYTH KAI TH FYNAIKI MOY TYXH KAI T€KNO[IC] KAI erroNOic kai gpcmmaci moy kai An€AeYeepoi[C] MHA6NOC er€POY €XONT[OC] 6ZOYCIAN MHT€ GA S'AI TINA €TePON MHT€ HIIAHCAI Tl €E AYTUN €1 A€ TIC TOPMHC6I Tl TOIOYTO HOIHCAI GHCCI MHTPI eCIlN CI nYAHNH5tyI€ 427 APPENDIX B. A COMMUNICATION TO THE AUTHOR FROM DANIEL SHARPE, ESQ^N THE LYCIAN INSCRIPTIONS. Adelphi Terrace, February 24, 1841. My dear Sib, After spending some time in endeavouring to translate the inscriptions which you have brought home from Lycia, I have only succeeded in obtaining a very slight idea of the language in which they are written ; yet as what I have done will relieve from some preliminary labour those who may wish to take up the same study, I send you all the information which I can give relating to them, coupled with a variety of remarks which have suggested themselves in the course of the inquiry. The inscriptions copied by Mr, Cockerell, and published in the Appendix to Mr. Walpole's Travels, were the first inscrip- tions in the Lycian language made known in Europe. They do not contain enough to allow of a complete alphabet being deduced from them, and are so imperfect that no correct value could be assigned to the characters used in them. Neverthe- less they attracted much attention, and several attempts were made to discover the language in which they are written. M. Saint Martin published a memoir in the Journal des Sa- vans for April 1821, entitled Observations sur les Inscriptions Lydennes decouvertes par M. Cockerell, in which he conjee- 428 APPENDIX B. tured that in the bilingual inscription from Lirayra, of which you have since brought us another copy (Plate XXXVI. No. 3), the Greek was nearly a literal translation of the Lycian ; and he attempted to explain several of the Lycian words by com- paring them to Syriac and Phoenician. In 1831 a paper on the same subject by Dr. F. A. Grotefend was read to the Royal Asiatic Society, which is published in the third volume of their Transactions. Dr. Grotefend compared together the five Lycian inscriptions then known, and concluded from the declension of the only verb occurring in them, that Lycian belongs to the family of Indo-Germanic languages, and that like Persian it has both long and short vowels. The materials which you have since brought home so entirely alter the spelling of most of the words contained in these in- scriptions, that it is unnecessary to analyse the contents of these two memoirs ; but I cannot refrain from expressing my admiration at the sagacity with which Dr. Grotefend drew such correct conclusions from the slight materials which he had be- fore him. The inscriptions which you copied in your first tour in 1838, and published on your return in 1839, of which three are in excellent preservation, might have given a better clue to the language: yet these, in addition to what were before known, hardly afibrd sufficient materials for forming an alphabet with certainty. Several of the letters must have remained altogether undetermined, and the value of some others uncertain : the very peculiar use of the letter B could not have been found out, and, until this was done, the analogies between many of the words could not be discovered. At this stage of the subject, Mr. James Yates read Memoirs upon the Lycian Inscriptions to the Royal Society of Literature and the Philological Society of London, which have not yet been published, but which are noticed in the Athenaeum of March 9, 1839. When you had the kindness to furnish me with cppies of all LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 429 the inscriptions which you had met with in your second visit to Lycia, I felt persuaded that sufficient materials were collected for investigating the subject satisfactorily. The number, va- riety and length of the inscriptions is very considerable, the characters are distinct, and the care with which you have copied them is beyond all praise. In addition to the bilingual inscrip- tion at Limyra, we have the assistance of the bas-relief engraved in Plate VII., in which several names occur both in Greek and Lycian characters, determining the sound of several of the letters with certainty ; and the Lycian coins afford further help of the same kind. The first step was to frame an alphabet : several of the letters were determined by their use on the bas-relief just mentioned ; others by comparing the names of the towns given us by the Greek geographers with those on the Lycian coins and on the inscriptions on the obelisk at Xanthus (Plate XX.) ; on the same monument two names occur both in Greek and Lycian. The remaining letters were determined either by their resem- blance to the' Greek or by the usual process of deciphering. The search after the alphabet led to a complete examination of the Lycian coins, the results of which are given below, ac- companied with some observations upon several geographical names which occur in the inscriptions. I then commenced, as my predecessors had done, upon the bilingual inscription from Limyra, but with the advantage of being able to correct its imperfections from other inscriptions of similar import, of which you had brought perfect copies ; these furnished the correct spelling of the words translated into Greek in this inscription. My interpretations agree in a great de- gree with those previously given ; the differences wiQ be stated hereafter. I began with the impression that the language was derived from Phoenician, but was soon staggered in this opinion by the abundance of vowels in Lycian, of which there are ten, nearly corresponding to the long and short vowels of the Persian and 430 APPENDIX B. Indian languages. The manner of declension of the pronouns and nouns, and of the conjugation of the verbs, soon convinced me, while working upon the forms of words of which the meaning was quite unknown, that Lycian was one of that large family of languages to which the German philologists have given the name of Indo-Germanic. The abundance of vowels then suggested a comparison with the Zend language : the result was the conviction that Lycian has a greater resemblance to Zend than to any other known language, but that it differs too much to be considered as a dia- lect of Zend, and must rank as a separate language. Of the few words which are determined with some approach to certainty, several resemble Sanscrit more nearly than Zend, and others are certainly of a Semitic origin ; yet 1;hese last are completely adopted into the language, and are declined in the same manner as the words of a Persian or Indian origin, without altering the structure of the language, which is thoroughly Indo- Germanic. The «lose neighbourhood of Syria readily accounts for the introduction of Semitic words into the language of any part of Asia Minor. Mr, Walpole has brought together in the Appendix to his Travels all the quotations from the ancient authors which bear upon the origin and language of the Lycians ; we should infer from them, that the people were a mixture of Greeks, Phoeni- cians and Persians ; but the two first races are mentioned more frequently than the Persian. The Greeks were a maritime peo- ple, they settled along the coast of Asia Minor, and penetrated but little into the country; the Phoenicians also spread them- selves along the same coast, and thus these two people were constantly in contact, while the Greeks had less communication with the people of Persian race in the interior, and have left little mention of their acquaintance with them. As I shall frequently have occasion to refer to the Zend lan- guage, which is probably unknown to most of your readers, it wiU not be amiss to state what is known of it, and what means LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 431 we have of applying it towards the explanation of the Lycian inscriptions. The only works extant in Zend are some portions of the books attributed to Zoroaster, which were brought from Surat by Anquetil du Perron, about eighty years ago, and placed in the Royal Library at Paris. In 1771 he published a translation of these and of some other religious books of the Parsees under the title of " Zend-Avesta," the name by which the principal work is known to the Parsees : from the title of this book the language has taken its modern name. Some of these works were perhaps written by Zoroaster, others are more modem ; but there is great uncertainty about the period when their author lived. The account most generally received, is that he lived in the sixth century before our aera. The works them- selves afford internal evidence that he was a native of Media, and therefore it may be presumed that his writings are in the ancient language of that country. Zend became in process of time a dead language, and the books of Zoroaster were translated into Pehlvi, in which they still exist, as well as in the original. This language is also a subject of great uncertainty ; it is thought to have been spoken in the southern provinces of the Persian empire two or three centuries after our aera, and to have become a dead language about the time of the Mahometan conquest of Persia. Pehlvi differs very materially from Zend, being principally of Semitic origin, of which Zend has no trace ; yet many Zend words have passed into it, and modern Persian contains much that is derived from both. The Parsees, who fled to India to preserve their religion, which was prohibited by the Mahometan conquerors of Persia, brought their sacred books with them, and continued to study Pehlvi, but they lost nearly all knowledge of Zend, and only kept up a traditional translation of the Zend-Avesta. Anque- til's whole knowledge of both languages was derived from the Parsee priests, and he only learned what they could teach ; 432 APPENDIX B. he has given as a translation, and, as a vocabulary of both lan- guages, a strange mixture of information and absurdity, care- lessly put together without the slightest attention to the rules of grammar ; to this we are obliged to refer for assistance until we have some better guide to the subject, but it is never safe to rely upon him. The manner in which he produced his disco- veries inspired so little confidence at the time, that Sir W. Jones declared that the books were forgeries which had been palmed upon his' credulity by the Parsees. M. Burnouf has lately undertaken a complete study of the Zend language, and has published the first volume of his Com- mentaire sur le Yaqna, in which he has analysed every word of the original in the most learned manner, showing the near relation between Zend and Sanscrit, and removing all doubts as to the authenticity and antiquity of the Zend-Avesta. If this excellent work were finished, there would be no reason to com- plain of the want of materials for the study of the Zend lan- guage; but as the portion yet commented upon is very small, we have still no guide to much of the remainder, except the work of Anquetil du Perron. Much information on the declension of the Zend nouns is contained in F. Bopp's Vergleichende Gram- matik des Sanscrit, Zend, Griechischen, &c., and when this work is finished, the student will be in a better position than he is in at present. For the study of Pehlvi, there is, as far as I am aware, no other assistance than that afforded by Anquetil. The celebrated inscriptions in an'ow-headed or cuneiform characters, fotmd at Persepolis and elsewhere, are written in three languages : Dr. Grotefend, Professor Lassen, and M. Bur- nouf have made great progress in translating one of these, which approaches very nearly to Zend. M. Burnouf 's Memoire sur quelques Inscriptions Cuneiformes gives . a masterly analysis of some of these inscriptions, and contains the best information concerning their language, which has been called PersepoUtan. The principal inscriptions which have as yet been translated, LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 433 are of the reigns of Darius Hystaspes, and Xerxes. As these are nearly of the period to which I refer the monuments which you have copied in Lycia, their comparison is of great interest ; but there are only a few sentences yet translated from the Per- sepolitan upon which much reliance can be placed^ and these are still open to correction. As far as I can judge, Lycian ap- pears to have more resemblance to Zend than to Persepolitan : the relative position of the countries in which the three tongues were spoken, coincides with this; Media, the country of the Zend language, separating Persia proper from Asia Minor : yet all three are of the same family, M'hich we may call Persian. There are some peculiarities, which will be mentioned hereafter, in the manner in which the Persepolitan nouns are declined, very analogous to what we find in Lycian, and which show that the two languages were at the same stage of grammatical development. Having thus pointed out what assistance is to be found to- wards the study of the Lycian language, I return to the de- scription of the inscriptions, and to a statement of such of their contents as I am able to understand. The inscriptions published in your Journal of 1838, and those given at Plate XXX VL of the present volume, are mostly fune- real; they contain little information in themselves, yet are of great value ; for being in short sentences, of which the subject is partially known, they are of the greatest assistance in studying the language ; they also prove that the language in question was that of the people of Lycia, and not merely of their Persian conquerors. The inscription numbered 23 is an exception, being either a decree or some other pubHc document ; but it is to(» imperfect to be at all understood. The inscriptions which are of the greatest interest of the whole collection, are those given in Plate XX., covering the four sides of a square monument which you have called the Obelisk at Xanthus. It is not improbable that this may have been one of the fire altars of the Persian religion, and the hatred of the 2 F 434 APPENDIX B. people against their conquerors may have induced them to throw it do>vn when they recovered their independence, leaving it in its present broken state. I can make out just enough of the inscriptions on this mo- nument to see how much historical information will be derived from them whenever they are fully translated, yet not enough to form any complete ideas of their contents. The writing on the different sides of the monument refers to very various sub- jects ; there is sufficient difference in the form of the letters to show that they were done by several artists : there is also a change in the use of some of the letters, which makes it pro- bable that a considerable period elapsed between the cutting of the four inscriptions, during which time a change of pro- nunciation was going on in the language. This is a source of great difficulty, but has the advantage of giving a clue to the relative ages of the inscriptions, as shall shortly be explained more at length. The inscription on the north-east side is not complete at the top : the first four lines which remain are in Lycian characters, the next eleven lines are in Greek, the rest is all Lycian, but this does not contain a translation of the Greek part of the in- scription. It seems probable, from this arrangement, that the upper part of the inscription, which is lost, contained in, Lycian the translation of what follows in Greek ; but the few broken lines of this part remaining are too imperfect to be of any assistance ; indeed in the last of these lines the Greek and Lycian characters are mixed up together in strange confusion. The Greek inscription is not legible ; we can just collect from it that it is an order addressed to the Lycians, in the first per- son, by some sovereign : the only person mentioned is a son of Arpagus, whose name is lost, and who is spoken of as a prince or governor, and to whom, perhaps, a portion of the kingdom was given in charge by a preceding sovereign. It is much to be hoped that some future traveller will bring home as accurate a copy as possible of this inscription, and will endeavour to turn LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 435 over the broken top of the monument, in hopes of finding on its under surface the upper part of the Lycian inscription, for no ancient inscription with which we are acquainted contains information of greater historical value than may be expected here ; and when we see how much progress has been made in the language from the bilingual inscription of three lines loiig which we have already, we may expect that a document of this length, accompanied by a Greek translation, would enable us to understand nearly all the remaining inscriptions. The line in Lycian which follows immediately ^fter the Greek, is to this effect : " Transcripts of the greatest decree of the King of kings;" showing that the decrees on the upper part of the monument emanate from the king of Persia ; what follows being probably issued by the local governor. We have so little direct in- formation relating to the Persian history or government, that it is unnecessary to say more to show the interest which attaches to this monument. The name of Arppagos occurs divided be- tween the 26th and 27th line of the same side of the obelisk, and the words son of Arppagos are found in the 24th line of the south-west side, where also the son's name is wanting, owing to the imperfection of the stone. The words King of kings occur frequently on the north-east and north-west sides of the monument, and on the same sides we find frequently re- peated the name of Aoura, or Aouremez, the chief divinity of the Persian fire-worshipers, whose name was gradually con- tracted from Ahora Mazda to Ormuzd. Arina, the ancient name of Xanthus {Arna of Stephanus Byzantinus), where this monument stands, occurs both in the Greek and Lycian parts of the inscription ; and many of the neighbouring towns are frequently mentioned, but instead of the term Lycia or Lycians, the Tramelae and the Troes are mentioned ; these two people appearing to divide between them the country called by the Greeks Lycia ; a division correspond- ing to that which we find in Homer between the Lycians com- manded by Sarpedon and Glaucus, and those commanded by 2 f2 436 APPENDIX B. Pandarus, the son of Lycaon, These names will be considered more fully when we come to that part of the subject which relates to the geography of the country. In the first book of Herodotus, cap. I7l to 177} is an account of the conquest of Lycia, and of all the southern parts of Asia Minor by Harpagus, a Mede commanding under Cyrus the Great, with a long and romahtic description of his taking Xanthus, where this monument stands. It seems probable that Cyrus would appoint Harpagus governor of the countries which he had conquered for him; if I read correctly in the seventh line of the Greek the words BcoKe fiepoi ^airCKewi, and couple this expression with the statement of Herodotus, and in particular with his statement at c. 1773 that " Harpagus over- ran Lower Asia, while Cyrus himself conquered all the nations of Upper Asia," it will not be too bold a conjecture to suppose that in this decree one of Cyrus's successors alludes to Cyrus having conferred upon Harpagus the government of a portion of his kingdom, and appoints the son of Harpagus to the same oflEice. The few words which I make out here and there in these two sides of the monument, lead me to suppose that it contains a series of decrees relating to the settlement of the country after the conquest by the Persians, and to the manner in which the people of the two races and religions are to live together. The Medes and Lycians are frequently used in oppo- sition to one another ; and in one passage a distinction is drawn between the worshipers and the opponents of Ormuzd ; but I have hot made out whether they are enjoined to live peaceably together, or whether the worship of Ormuzd is to be enforced upon the conquered Lycians. The inscriptions on the south-west and south-east sides of the monument relate to very difiFerent matters ; there is no men- tion of Ormuzd, nor of the King of kings, in those parts of the inscriptions which remain, but no very certain conclusions can be drawn from these omissions, as the upper part of both those sides is wanting. It can hardly be doubted that they were in- LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 437 scribed while the country was still under the same government, as it is on the south-west that we meet with the "son of Arppa- gos" and the word Shah, King, or Governor, occurs several times on the south-east ; on this latter side a word occurs twice which has a great resemblance to Xerxes, but being unaccom- panied by any titles, I hesitate adopting it as that king's name. The lower part of the south-weat inscription contains a number of names of towns and people, accompanied by locative prepo- sitions, from which it may be inferred that it is a decree settling the boundaries of the townships. According to the chronology usually received, Cyrus the Great ascended the throne of Persia in the year 559 B.C., and died 530 b.c. Harpagus was not a young man when the former event took place : supposing this monument to have been erected in the lifetime of the son of Harpagus, and after the death of Cyrus, its date will be fixed approximately between 530 and 500 B.C.; it cannot be put much later without allowing to Harpagus or to his son a life beyond the usual average. You must bear in mind, that until the inscriptions are fully translated, it will remain uncertain whether the Arpagus men- tioned in them is really. the same person as Cyrus's general. Herodotus mentions another Persian general of the same name, who commanded in Ionia under the orders of Artaphernes, the governor of Sardis in the time of Darius Hystaspes (Book VI. c. 28 and 30), and there are many instances of names being here- ditary in the Persian families, and descending to the grandson in alternate generations. Nevertheless it is extremely probable, from what has been already advanced, that the Arpagus named in the inscription is the general whose conquest of Lycia under Cyrus's orders is related by Herodotus. We have thus obtained an approximate date to one of the Lycian monuments, but before attempting to fix the age of the others, it is necessary to examine the coins, and to class them in chronological order^ as they will throw some light upon the 438 APPENDIX B. relative dates of the inscriptions. For this purpose we must take a slight review of the history of the country. In the time of Homer the religion of Lycia was similar to that of the Greeks, and we know of nothing likely to produce any change in it until the conquest of Lycia by the Persians in the reign of Cyrus, about 550 b.c. This event must have had a great effect upon the condition of the country, which could only recover its flourishing condition after some time. We see also by the inscriptions that the Persians introduced the wor- ship of Ormuzd. The account of the conquest given by He- rodotus does not show that the Lycians were left to govern themselves as tributaries, but rather implies that they were en- tirely put down ; so that it is probable that the towns then ceased to coin money in their own names, which they could only do while they governed themselves under their own laws. Thus we know that the cities of Ionia, which, although tribu- taries to Persia, coined their own money, were governed by their native princes or magistrates. The time is not mentioned at which the Lycians regained the power of governing themselves, but as they did not become independent of Persia, we can only suppose that their condition improved with the weakness of the Persian empire, after the defeat of the expedition of Xerxes against Greece, and that they gradually recovered their liber- ties sufficiently to become tributaries instead of subjects, in which state they must have continued until the time of Alex- ander, when the free cities of Asia Minor lost their liberties in the general fall of Greece and of Persia. At the division of territory which took place, on the death of Alexander, 323 B.C., Lycia became part of the portion of Antigonus (Diodorus Siculus, book xviii. c. 3 and 5). It changed masters several times in the wars between Alexander's successors, but as these changes hardly bear upon our subject it is not necessary to trace them. After the victory of Cn. Manlius over Antiochus the Great, the Romans gave the greater part of Lycia to the LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 439 Rhodians, in return for their good services (Livy, book xxxviii. c, 39)j but the Rhodians having offended the Romans during their war with Perseus of Macedon, the Senate passed a decree declaring Lycia and Caria free (Livy, book xliv. c. 15), either in 168 B.C. or the following year. Strabo, book xiv., describes the form of government adopted by the Lycians : twenty-three cities, of which the principal were Xanthus, Patara, Pinara, Olympus, Myra and Tlos, were united in a league and go- verned by a congress, which elected a Lysiarch or President and other magistrates : formerly, adds Strabo, the congress de- cided upon peace and war, but now they cannot do so without permission from the Romans. In this state of semi-independr ence Lycia continued until its liberties were taken away by the Emperor Claudius (Suetonius in Claudius, c. 25). There are thus three periods marked out by history during which the Lycians were sufficiently independent to manage their internal affairs and coin their own money; and their coins may be easily classed accordingly. The first ends with the Persian conquest, about 550 b.c. ; to this period may be re- ferred the coins of a very early style of workmanship, struck in the names of the cities, with Lycian characters ; they have all on one side a three-armed instrument of unknown use, which has been named by antiquarians a triquetra, and the emblems on the reverse are suitable to the early rehgion of the country. On these coins the letter B is frequently used as a vowel, and the letter + does not occur. To this class belong all the coins figured in Plate XXXVII. The second period is from their rise after the Persian conquest to the time of Alexander. To this belong the coins Nos. 26 and 27. They bear the names of cities in Lycian characters, but the letter + is already in use, and B has ceased to be used as a vowel. The triquetra has gone out of fashion, and different divinities occur on the reverses : but neither on these nor the former series do we find any emblems of Apollo. The work- manship is very good, and so fully distinguishes them from 440 APPENDIX B. those of the first period, that a long interval must have passed between their manufacture. The third period is that of the Lycian league, which lasted two centuries, from about 168 b.c. to 50 a.d. To this belong all the coins with Greek characters, having the word Avkicov in addition to the name of the city : none have the triquetra, and their symbols are all referable to the worship of Apollo : their workmanship is good. These coins are found of most of the Lycian cities, as may be seen in Mionnet's Description des Me- dailles antiques. The use of the Greek characters would nearly suflfice to prove these coins posterior to the Macedonian con- quest ; but the word Avkicov in addition to the town leaves no doubt of their age, since- it shows the money to have been struck by a republican government which extended over the whole country; a state of things which only existed under the Lycian league at the period referred to. The cities which be- longed to the Achaean league used a similar form on their cop- per money, which bears the word A^atwj/ besides the name of the town issuing it. The worship of Ormuzd seems to have had no hold of the feelings of the Lycians, as the coins of the second period bear evidence that in recovering their independence the people re- turned to their former religion. Apollo is mentioned by Homer in connexion with Lycia, but his worship became more general in the country after it was conquered by the Macedonians, who were noted for their attachment to that divinity. Great difference prevails in the different inscriptions in the use of the letters B and +, arising apparently from some altera- tion in the language or its pronunciation ; a similar difference exists on the coins, where the style of workmanship affords the means of arranging them according to their relative dates ; so that we are enabled to judge of the relative ages of the in- scriptfons by adopting the use of those letters as a test. Had the Lycian inscriptions all been accompanied by sculpture, the style of the art would have answered the same purpose ; but as LYCIAN LANGUAGE. 44] the only inscription to which a date can be assigned from hi- storical evidence has no sculpture connected with it, the let- ters must form our guide to the relative age of the others, which may be checked by comparing the bas-reliefs with Gre- cian works of which the age is known. Judging from these grounds, it will follow that the most ancient of the inscrip- tions which you have copied are those on the north-east and north-west sides of the obelisk at Xanthus, of which I sup- pose the date to be about 500 'b.c. The inscription which comes neai-est to them is below the battle-scene, Plate XXXI., then follow the south-west and south-east sides of the obelisk at Xanthus. I can trace no difference between these last and the short inscriptions on the tomb of Payara, on which the sculpture is of great beauty, as may be seen in the frontispiece of your former Tour and Plate XXIII. of the present volunie; The funereal inscriptions at Plate XXXVI. are mostly still more modern. It is obvious that these opinions, drawn from half-understood inscriptions, are little to be relied on ; but the interest attached to the sculpture is so great that I feel myself called upon to state them; Those who have studied Grecian art must decide whether the workmanship of the Lycian bas-reliefs coincides with the dates deduced from the study of the inscriptions. The use of stops to separate the words, and of the letters 12 and H in the accompanying Greek, have been thought incon- sistent with the date of 500 B.C. here assigned to one of the Lycian inscriptions. Either of these peculiarities occurring on a monument found in Greece would be sufficient to fix its date as much more modern. The first objection is easily answered ; although the Greeks used points between the words only at a very late period, the Persians made use of them as early as the reign of Darius Hystaspes, and perhaps much earlier, for they are found in all the arrow-headed inscriptions; the practice continued in Persia till more modern times, as all the manu- scripts of the Zend-Avesta are stopped in a similar manner. 442 APPENDIX B. Therefore these stops prove, not the modern date, but the Asiatic character of the Lycian inscriptions. The objection derived from the letters 12 and H is not so easily got rid of: there is good reason to believe that those letters were not used in Greece till after 400 B.C., but it is not known when they were introduced into Asia Minor.. It is pro- bable that the Asiatic Greeks, who lived among nations whose languages abounded with long and short vowels, would be the first to make use of them in their own language, and that from them the X2 and H spread into Greece. Until more is known upon the subject, the use of these letters in an Asiatic inscrip- tion cannot determine its date, especially in contradiction to other evidence. That I may not exhaust your patience by the length of this letter, I have omitted all matters of detail, which will be found arranged separately, as follows : — 1. The Lycian Alphabet. 2. The Coins of Lycia, and the names of the people and towns. 3. The Inscriptions, which I have given in Roman characters with translations of such parts as I can make out. ^ In considering the alphabet, I have been much struck by the great resemblance between the Lycian and the Etruscan letters ; if this resemblance were only found in those characters which both people have copied from the Greeks, it would be of little moment ; but it extends also to several characters which are not in the Greek alphabet. The letters on various coins attributed to Cilicia, have a still greater identity with those of Etruria. It may be proved from a comparison of the alphabets, that the Etruscans derived their characters from Asia Minor and not from Greece. This goes far towards confirming the account given by Herodotus of the Lydian origin of the Etruscans, but the doubts respecting it can only be removed when the Etrus- can language is sufficiently understood for us to trace its origin. I now take leave of the subject, tantalized with the faint ILTSQAS^ ALP Si! A© IT. Lycian letters Siapposei force letters rdal^d to them, ia Greek Zend A . P a loiy A d/ X a short ' Cb ^ e loiy H e'.e' E 1 e short T loTw or y E 1 £ V short 1 I B . b crw.w ' + cno. It' & perhaps It In V .w.h.o.ab 3:.H<.$ atb.n- , o o O short o 'V.N^.NJ'.V.V. ^ U prohahl)- lory 11 ^>y.y.Y.>K.Y U prohably short Y u Y.V.V.<.> g hard. r g-3^ A d A d.dfv I z Z z . s K k K h. Mh.q A I A /A./^.m rrv M TTV /v. A. V . ^ n N TV r. ^. r P n p.i p r p T S.J.^ S pwlJ\ prv7i£funced sh z s. s sh T t T.0 t. t.-ik.d. cUv F f F. n f X oh/ or k X ch. toh. JTie foUowina leiiers are not incAideai in ^ iahle Creek (p.^JT Zend ST . g^ n^ . n dj . i . The e^iaracter 3 is itsed in zfe Lycian msaiptwns as a ^top ; io separate the words 7'he characters N . i^. h seem, io be impcrfccdy copied inslea^L of ^ .^ or F. f^.V P, B i.+. E i.I E.F t^.t* >^.^A y.NJ' are latters haile io be irastakah in oo^yin^. Ijig^-fyW.^AU John Murray, London, 1841, LYGIAN ALPHABET. 443 glimpse which I have obtained' of it, and in' hopes that it ma/-t be taken up by "some good Oriental scholar whose previous knowledge of the languages relaj;ed to Lycian may be sufficient to carry him over all those difficulties which I cannot surmount. I remain, My dear Sir, Very truly yours. To Charles Fellows, Esq. DANIEL SHARPE. THE LYCIAN ALPHABET. ^ Many of the characters used/^by the Lycians resemble those of the early Greek inseriptions-; others vary slightly from the Greek letters in form, but several have no resemblance to them, and miist have expressed sounds for which their Greek contem- poraries had no occasion. The vowels and semivowels are as follows : — , • A or P- , answering to the Greek alpha, the Persian alif and . the long A in Zend. The first form is evidently derived friDm the Grreek, the' second is used in its place on two tombs at Li- myra (Plate XXXVI. Nos. 7 ahd 8), perhaps only by a whim of the artist. X, a short or soft A; its form has a resemblance to the A in some Phoenician inscriptions ; its sound is determined by its occurrence in the words X3SPW and TPXMEA'^; the first, AOURU*, is part of the name of Ormuzd, in Zend Ahura, which begins with a short A ; the other, written by the Greeks TpefitXai, is the Asiatic name of a portion of the people of Lycia; A * When OU occurs in this paper it shoiild be expressed OU. ', 444 APPENDIX B. here this letter is rendered in Greek by epsilon, there being no nearer sound to it in that language. The Lycian alphabet has E to express epsilon, so that X can only be a short A. ■^ a long Ej closely allied to the Greek H, and probably aspirated when at the beginning of a word. The name of Hera- clea on the coins (Nos. 3 and 9, Plate XXXVII.) is written '^PEKA'^, which can leave no doubt as to the force of the letter. On the bas-relief, page 116, the name of EKATOM- NAZ, when transcribed in Lycian, begins with this letter, which thus is made to answer to an aspirated E in Greek. This character is found on a few of the early Etruscan monu- ments, where Lanzi thought it a numeral {Saggio di Lingua Etrusca, vol. i. p. 167). It is also found united with letters strongly resembling Phoenician, on several coins of unknown' towns, supposed to have been Cilician. E, taken from the Greek epsilon, and answering to the short E of the Eastern languages. I, a long I ; it is generally, and perhaps always, followed by a vowel, as the instances to the contrary may arise from mis- takes, to which this letter is particularly subject from its simple form ; it occurs very frequently between two vowels, where its force must have been nearly that of our Y. To distinguish it from the short I, it has been uniformly rendered Y. i, a short I ; its exact value was first determined in APiNA, the ancient name of Xanthus, which occurs both in the Greek and Lycian parts of the obelisk at that place, and also on a coin of the same town ; Stephanus Byzantinus calls this name Apva, which proves that the vowel dropped in his time must have been a short one. Both the preceding letters seem to have been de- rived from the Greek iota, with slight modifications in form, to create a distinction between them. O or 0, the Greek omicron and short O of the Zend alpha- bet ,• the second form, which occurs rarely in our inscriptions, is found both on early Greek and Etruscan monuments. B or b, +, and *, t or jE, are letters which, without being LYCIAN ALPHABET. 4-15 exactly identical, are very much interchanged ; they are the cause of great difficulty in deciphering the Lycian inscriptions, which is much increased by their being used in a different manner on different monuments. Although there are here six forms, they are in reality only three letters, the first and second being identical, and the three last mere variations of one letter ; we will therefore only take into consideration the commonest form of each. B is evidently copied from the Greek beta, and it would na- turally be supposed identical with that letter ; but it frequently occurs as a vowel, as, for instance, in the name of the town TPBBWNEME, of which the coins are not uncommon (Plate XXXVII., Nos. 1, 5, 19 and 20), and which is also named on the obeUsk at Xanthus. I shall shortly show that this can be no other than the town afterwards called by the Greeks TAX2Z, and that its inhabitants were either called T/jtowe? or Tpwe?. As it will be necessary to enter into this subject at some length when I come to the examination of the Lycian coins, I will, to avoid repetition, refer you to what is there stated. Besides this vowel sound of B answering nearly to the Greek omega, it is also very frequently a consonant. This double employment of B is sufficiently puzzling, but the peculiar use of beta in cer- tain Greek dialects throws some light upon it. In Miiller's History of the Doric Race, vol. ii. p. 431, it is stated, that among the Dorians the digamma generally assumed the form of B, and a number of instances are there given from the Laco- nian, Cretan, Pamphylian and other dialects. In the Greek coins of the Emperors Severus and Verus, the sound of V is produced either by B or OY, the former name being written either ZEOYHPOZ or ZEBHPOZ, showing that in some parts the sounds of B and OY "were identical. It seems, therefore, that B was used in Lycia to represent a letter, the force of which must have been nearly that of our W when used as a consonant, and of the Greek 12 or OY when as a vowel. Such a letter is found in several Asiatic languages. 446 APPENDIX B, In Persian the letter Waw is used both as consonant and vowel ; in the former case it is a W, in the latter a broad or long U. In Zendj according to Anquetil du Perron, the letter > is a short O, and its duplication ^ is OU, or in some districts W. This explains exactly the uses of B in Lycian, both as a double and as a W ; in other words, that peculiar sound which we consider as a doubling of U is formed both in Zend and Lycian by doubling the O, which letter must have had in those lan- guages a sound somewhat intervening between our O and U. M. Burnouf has corrected Anquetil on the subject of these two letters, alleging that if the double letter is equal to W, its half must be U ; and thinking that ^ is always used as a conso- nant, he employs V to represeftt it, and U to represent its half >. The difficulty of deciding this matter is increased by the number of letters in Zend, as besides the two just mentioned, there are other forms for V, W, U long and O long and short. M. Burnouf's remarks on these letters will be found in the In- troduction to his Commentaire sur le Yaqna. I am very fearful of going wrong when I quit the guidance of M. Burnouf, but in this instance I cannot help following the reading of the letters given by Anquetil, because it eiplains the use of the B in the Lycian inscriptions, and is itself confirmed thereby. In the Pehlvi alphabet, according to Anquetil, who is here the only guide, one character serves for B, V, O and OU, which last he uses nearly as we use W. This may be seen in his Pehlvi alphabet in the third volume of the Zend-Avesta, and is also mentioned in his Recherches sur les Anciennes Langues de la Perse, published in the Memoires de PAcadcmie des Irir- scriptions et Belles Leltres, vol. xxxi., 1768, p. 400, where, after mentioning that there are two characters for B, he adds " le Pehlvi forme peut^tre I'O, I'OU et le V de la deuxieme figure B." This is very analogous to the manner in which B is used in Lycian. In writing out the Lycian inscriptions in Roman characters, 1 have endeavoured as far as possible to use a different single LYCIAN ALPHABET. 447 letter for each I^ycian character, but I have found it hnpossible ■to do so with the letters now under consideration, since we have no letter which answers to the different uses of the B ; the nearest to it is undoubtedly W, but this will not do in all in- stances; I have therefore rendered the B by W where it appears to be a consonant, and by OU where it is a vowel. I preferred the latter to O, as having more analogy to W. m performs the same double part of vowel and consonant as B, and appears to have the same force of W and O long. It is frequently interchanged with B ; thus we find the town of TPBBWNEME, and the people TPXXAS; also S'^B'^ and S^CC^, etc. In both these cases the two letters seem iden- tical, yet they are always distinguished in some words in the same inscriptions, for the word XX PW is invariably thus written, the second letter being never changed ; this word is the first part of the Zend name of Ormuzd, it is written by Anquetil Ehora, by M. Burnouf ^AM^-a, therefore in this word the letter 3C seems to be an O or U lengthened by aspiration. It is usually a vowel, and very rarely a consonant. In copying out the in- scriptions I have adopted the same letters to represent this as are employed for B, namely, W when a consonant and OU when a vowel. + is also both vowel and consonant, and closely allied to the two preceding, being interchanged with both; thus we have BOFI^APE and +OF'^APE, i^£DBE and '^+BE, etc., yet the letters are not identical; for we find many words in which two of them occur together, as on one of the coins, probably be- longing to Irjke^u)^, we find T^A'l^B't^+E+4^, where B and + represent different consonants ; many others, which will be seen by reference to the inscriptions. There are many words, particularly in the later inscriptions, where + might be ren- dered by H, as in the name just quoted, which, if written I r I r TELEWEHEHE, gives a word with a termination analogous to that of some of the genitives in Zend ; yet H will not do to express the letter when it is a long vowel. 448 APPENDIX B. Thus, although feeling convinced that there are differences between the three letters B, + and !Xs I find them so nearly al- lied and so frequently interchanged, that I am quite at a loss to express a distinction between them in our letters,, and I have written them all three in the same manner, W when they appear to be consonants, and OU when they are vowels. I have not been able to reduce to any rule the differences be- tween these three letters, because the manner in which they are respectively used varies in the different inscriptions, and also in. different parts of the same monument. I thought at first that in the mixed population of Lycia these variations might depend upon the writing being the work of a Greek or of an Asiatic sculptor ; for we can easily understand that a Greek could not reconcile himself to use B for a vowel while he had another character to use instead of it ; to an Asiatic this would be a matter of indifference. But further examination has con- vinced me that there must have been an alteration going on in the pronunciation during the period over which the monuments extend, which caused a corresponding alteration in the use of the letters. This seems to have consisted in the gradual change in many words from W to H, sounds which have a great analogy to one another, especially if both are pronounced from the throat, as must have been the case in Lycia, where the same character represented an aspiration and the long vowel O or OU*. At one period there were only the characters B and 3C to ex- press this class of sounds, at another B and ^ represent two sounds, the former W, the latter perhaps H, while CC remains intermediate between them. I infer that the use of the single character is more ancient than its subdivision, from the gene^ ral tendency of languages to become more complicated, and from the internal evidence afforded by the monuments and coins. Of the latter very few contain these letters ; the coin * A similar change from F to H toolj place in Spanish ; fidalgo being turned into hidalgo. LYCIAN ALPHABET. 449 referred to T7)ke(^io^ appears from its workmanship to be one of the most modern of those with Lycian characters, and the letters B and ^ occur as distinct consonants in a manner not found on any of the earlier coins j and the coins of TROOU- NEME. on which B is always used as a vowel, are among the earliest from Lycia. The examination of the monuments leads to the same conclusion : on the north-east and north-west sides of the obelisk at Xanthus, B is either vowel or consonant in- differently, and + only occurs three times, while in most of the other inscriptions this is one of the letters of most common occurrence : on no other monuments are these peculiarities so strongly marked; consequently the inscriptions on these two sides of the obelisk, the date of which is about 500 B.C., must either be the most ancient or the most modern of the whole series ; with such an alternative there can be no hesitation in considering them as the most ancient, as we should otherwise have to assign to the other monuments an antiquity which would be quite incredible. This change in the language was gradual, as there are inscriptions in which the letters B and + seem nearly identical, which must be considered as of an age intermediate between those where the B only occurs, and the others in which the difference between the two letters is strongly marked. In Zend, besides the character already mentioned, there is another letter, which M. Bumouf considers a W, which is a very slight deviation in form from the H of that alphabet : probably these were originally the same letter, and the stroke distin- guishing them added at a later period, which would be analo- gous to the change we find in Lycian : at any rate there seems nearly the same difficulty about the sounds W and H in Zend as there is in Lycian. The letter + occurs in an Etruscan inscription mentioned by Lanzi, vol. i. p. 168, the sound of which he leaves in doubt: there is also an Etruscan letter of frequent use which seems a variation in form from B, and which is without doubt derived 2 G 450 APPENDIX B. from the same source as that letter : it is 8, showing a great analogy to a double O ; it is considered by Lanzi to be equivalent to Phj a letter which might have been used to express the sound of W, as the Latin F took the place of the digamma : the same character occurs on several undetermined coins attributed to Cilicia. The Greeks sometimes used to express the Lycian Bj as in the name of Tr)Xe^io^ or Mere; the M is partially defaced on the coin, but may still be read : the same name occurs on the Obelisk at Xanthus. Mionnet, Supp. vol. vii., gives a coin of the same town. No. 592 of his uncertain Cihcian coins : it has a triquetra and the letters M^PE . . . with a head of Pan on the reverse. Gag^.— The legend on No. 8. Plate XXXVII. is not very clear, but may perhaps be read VA^E^A, or Gaeega, which is probably the Gagrn of the Greeks : the reverse is a sphinx. On the obelisk at Xanthus is the name of Geaega, which diifers slightly, but probably refers to the same town. Hebaclea.— The coin No. 3. Plate XXXVII, bears the name of ^PEKA^', erecle or herecle, if the vowel was aspirated when at the beginning of a word. No. 9 belongs to the same town: its legend is '^PEK. The same name occurs on the obelisk at Xanthus. No town of this name in Lycia is men- tioned by the ancient geographers, but there is Heraclea in Caria, to which place this coin probably belongs. Pedasa or Pegasa, a city of Caria. We have the authority of Stephanus Byzantinus for the variation in spelling the name with D or G. Among the coins with Lycian characters, are several which I propose to refer to this town with some hesi- tation: they are No. 15. Plate XXXVII., with the legend F >^ VSS'^PA, F^gsserd (the last letter is very doubtful) ; No. 16 with Feg, and a Pegasus on the reverse ; and No. 18 with Fed. 460 APPENDIX B. The Lycian name of the town to which these apply, was pro- bably Fagsserdeme, that name being found on the obeli&k at Xanthus. Changing the initial letters, which are nearly related to one another, F and P, and dropping the terminations in each case, there is a great resemblance between the names ; and their identity is rendered more probable by the Pegasus on one of the coins, and by the name in each language being written with either D or G. One of the horses of Achilles mentioned in Homer is named Pedasus ; it seems therefore that both Peda- sus and Pegasus must have been derived from a word signifying horse in Lycian, or in one of the languages of Asia Minor. If the names Pegasa and Fegsserdeme are rightly identified, they must be of Asiatic origin ; for the Lycians would not change P into F in adopting a Greek name, although the Greeks could not avoid the converse change in naturalizing a Lycian name beginning with F. By attending to the nature of a change of this kind, the language to which a word originally belonged can generally be detected. Cabalia, according to Pliny and Ptolemy, or Caballis, according to Strabo, was an inland district of Lycia, containing the three cities Oenoanda, Balbura, and Bubon. Strabo, Book XIII. p. 629 and 631, enters into some details respecting the inhabitants, who were said to be Solymi. The most common of the Lycian coins appear to belong to this district; No. 12. Plate XXXVII. has the name KOPAAAE, Kopalle, which is also found on the obelisk at Xanthus ; on the rest the name is abbreviated; No. 17 having Kopall, and Nos. 2, 6, 7, and 22, only Kop. Mionnet, Supplement, vol. vii., has published a coin of the same district, with the legend Kop, which he has classed among the uncertain coins of CiHcia as No. 589. The identity of the names is not complete, but there is no other name in Lycia nor the surrounding countries to which these coins can be re- ferred. LYCIAN COINS. No. 24. 461 This coin probably belongs to the same district; it is of very ancient date, with the legend HADC, which must be read Chap or Kap. The change of the vowel from O to A brings the name nearer to the Greek form Cabalia, and there are other proofs that the Lycian letters X and K were nearly identical. The reverse has two fish, which seems an extraordinary bearing for an inland district, and increases the doubt on the subject. No. 25. This coin admits of no such doubt, as its legend is certainly Kopalle. No. 26. Patara. — nTTAPAlW, Pttarazu: it is impossible to pronounce this word without inserting a vowel, which brings the beginning of the name to an identity with the Greek Patara. In the lists of towns in Lycia, Caria, and the neighbouring 462 APPENDIX B. countries given by the Greek geographers, a large proportion end in assos or essos, such as Halicarnassus, Edebessus, &c. The azu on this coin shows the manner in which the Lycians ex- pressed this termination, which the Greeks have dropped in Patara: the Lycian Z is here equivalent to SS in Greek. No. 26 is one of the latest coins with Lycian characters, pro- bably struck shortly before the invasion of Asia by Alexander ; it has no triquetra, but a head of Mercury on one side, and the head of a hero or demigod on the reverse. No. 27. Tblephios is mentioned by Stephanus Byzantinus as Si;/io? AvKia^, a tribe or people of Lycia. The legend is T'^A^- B'^ +E+'^,'which is either Telewewewe, or, considering the + to be here equivalent to H, Telewehehe. In either case the word is the genitive plural of a noun commencing with Telewe ; a name only differing from Telephios in the termination and the use of ^ to express the sound of the Jjycian B. The only difficulty connected with this identification is in the term Sr}fM><}, which does not apply to a town. Lycian coins of unknown towns. — The few coins which still remain to be mentioned, must remain unarranged until it is ascertained to what towns they belong. No. 4. Plate XXXVII.— The only letters remaining are 4^BF, which do not occur together on any of the coins yet mentioned, and are not enough to show the name of the town. Perhaps they should be read ^ RE, ere, the beginning of Heraclea. LYCIAN COINS. 463 Nos. 13 and 14. Plate XXXVII. have no legend, but as both have Pegasus on the reverse, they may belong to Pedasa. No. 21. Plate XXXVII. has the letters ME, which afford little information. No. 23. Plate XXXVII. is so much worn that the legend cannot be made out. No. 28. This coin has the letters MA or AM, and a stroke, which may have been an instrument similar to that on No. 21. The form of the M on this coin is very peculiar, and has a great resem- blance to the Etruscan M, The Graeco-Lycian coins with the letters MA are usually referred to the town of Massicytus. No. 29. I can attempt no explanation of the character on this coin, which is repeated on the reverse at the top of the head of a griffin. The triquetra shows that the coin was Lycian ; but there ig no such character in any of the inscriptions, so that it is uncertain whether it should be considered as a monogram or as some religious emblem. 464 APPENDIX B. No. 30. This is peculiar in having a four-armed instrument instead of the usual Lycian triquetra. If the coin is perfect, the most probable manner of reading the legend is F^XXEBI^; but there may have been another letter after the F, as that corner of the die is incomplete. The reverse has a griffin. In Sestini's Letters, vol. vi. tab. 13, no. 1, a coin is figured which must have belonged to the same town : it has a four- armed triquetra, and on the reverse part of a boar. It is re- ferred by Sestini to the town of Aspendus in Pamphylia, which is a place of refuge for many stray coins. In the text the legend is given BE T^XXE^Ej but the engraver has represented it in the Plate in a different manner, BE^XXEi^^E; at the stop where the asterisk is placed is a character which is not in- telligible. There are so many letters the same on the two coins, that there can be little doubt of their relationship. The letter X is of very rare occurrence in the Lycian inscriptions ; it only appears on the south-west and south-east sides of the obelisk at Xanthus, and its place must be occupied by K in the other in- scriptions; but I observe that 3C is frequently and K never doubled. The only words on the obelisk which have any re- semblance to the legend on the two coins are T^XXE and A'MXFEj and a word which is partially lost in the imperfec- tion of the stone at the end of the 59th and beginning of the 60th lines on the south-east, T XEP^EBEj if we in- sert the letters -^ X in the gap, we obtain T^XOCEF^^EBEi which corresponds with Sestini's coin if we retain the T given in his text, and read F for the character left doubtful by his en- graver. To bring the coin No. 30 to the same name, we must LYCIAN COINS. 465 insert T at the part which is imperfect, and read T'^SCXEB^F, which can only be reconciled with the above on the supposition that B and F are convertible letters, for which there is no other evidence. No. 31. The legend upon this coin appears to be P^PEKA^ or Perekle, but I cannot find any town of that name mentioned in the ancient geographers : not having seen the coin itself, nor a cast from it, I suspect that the drawing from which this cut is taken may be inaccurate. If the first letter were omitted the name would be Erecle, or Heraclea, the same as Nos. 3 and 9. Tremil^ and Tboes. — In the Greek part of the inscription on the obehsk at Xanthus, Lycia is mentioned several times ; but that name does not occur in the other part of that inscrip- tion, nor in any of the inscriptions in the Lycian language. Herodotus (1. i. c. 73) states that the inhabitants of Lycia were called at different periods Milyans, Solymi and Termilae, which last name they had at the time they were governed by Sarpedon, and by which their neighbours still called them. So that in the time of Herodotus, the people whom the Greeks called Xiycians, were called Termilae by the neighbouring Asiatics. Stephanus Byzantinus gives Tremile as the ancient name of Lycia. The wordTPXMEA^, Tramele, occurs repeatedly on the obelisk at Xanthus, in which we cannot mistake the TVe- milK^/wOF'^TE 1" B T 1 1 ►: '^P■ P Ffi^EI f vvv tTE r Piw ^ F^T>f; / EA-hPEi p.-r-^ji^^ /Vt:TEAf EMEIPrrEtTAE-f^BSf' A%AE:t+PE/'hTEAtEM E-*»|cE1' AtlT' TOMIVH:MATOAd^' OIHZAToriAAPIOZITAr^i^ /VTOlViotEAYTOiKAITHirV Ik IKAlYISirVRIAAM t9T£N'V: ^orXy/>«tTErPiri> FPIT O+PKot: IAOKP + P+' 1^ EIT E. h^f>: II- FEbAEf v^^'Y^Ko^AM t NtKPii>iPTY eniTY NX A /MOA/ TO( T ONO P Al IMY ©OV TEATEM E + ^^IP EM'^ + hPil N'MEI + E ^ r'E.^^I'-flTEA^EME ft PXMt/v * N EJ t A^A^t +BEXP^ E PTA P t rTTtil"fP EN^^AXE TltfA A loZN I K APXOY 7 tBT£/*'T:yor>»':'«'rTE:rPi/vpFP-TY:PO'«P-IP:l>PTtAEK/'H-:TEAtEME + PrrEAPAE: t+BE: OFE^T'^•. ^y«>/>«'^TEt^^-■. IIE'v^P-IE:/'!':TEA1'E'»^t':t+BEI t PEir ETEP ^EAPFP-T'^: AA1^ P^/«'^ FT + . TEA'^EA^ E. +PPPE A P-A E'^ + B E^ t:T EA-!- E'*^ t // ^•Bfi/v'r P P3EP'PF\S'.'^'rTEfPif ►T»r'AA^P//X'^P: ^PAPA'*^^+•.TEAii^,r + PrrEmA1'iE:t +PE:oP'fPEAAP'+^: TPX^^Ef S.ViTiEtTI-TI'P PPTTo>flp^P^./TTK Af^+■^>B'TE:'«E£TEP•A^E 4Z \ tPnNlll'oTV/A^TErPIP'/' FN I^Tt F E f' t T^ E 1^ rriT M P-H- : ^-tf EN/ lA A /M'I^E;/BKM^+: TEAI-EM^ ■r'0TiA"T': P^: iy I^F-.^y: '«'^.TErP:EI^^Ef>'TY: i'fAAOTt + tTEAt'EME: +PrPE: ^^TAE: '^+PE ITE^? EA^E"'+ProE:/v\ AE rEB^tAP-Eltlll- EA^ 45 >PI/Y ^FI^TV: ^^EA'^VT^/v^^ +p^^E:A^AE:'^+BE:/tTEA'^ EMAMtEhi: hoAY:TEITt yP'+Pf^feE: Ef^IXEIt:l( BM Pl!^ /-MfAE: t + &E tBT£'>'V: Pri/\/^P ToPAA'T^+rTEAI'E i^J'^A'^£A''^FF•. Y iTf'EI ^TI>-AYTMP J.-MTTPt^AMIl. ItE'MTITNI'T /-# tari/*'^: vo^v:M'^TE^P£/v^FPT'^:ToF^ /»a:+p ^^EA^AE /trAtEMt:JfEI'MTfkAr:T1'JE:/<^ETTE: AAPA^+1'AE:AA^:ll 47 N/OAV 4 E-M Pi/voTt • "TEA^^EAAh HOlt TP YiA'V: f>-PIA^FT:'*^t'' f. ^P£^4 PFf^TVAA^* K i Pill OAt+* TEAtEA«E:+P^E:^^BAE1'+BEJ'^TEA'^E'^'^/'^Y*tA^TEAE'^*f^J8>> «v I^ETTI^ ET^TEiTEPfTtlEi tAPAV>'1^+B E* P FT EPI'AVI' EAEF^IFtPET^TTo TEdtE: ENr. +AX/>^E■.TOF'^To+AX/v^EM'^ETOFtTETEK'^TEB'^E £T'^^E.T^AETEI^APE JtTP** f'A JtAV^AT+OFf A P E .^(7 t B f I P'T: VO PV: ~^y TI rPit^ ^FPT Vh / 'T' At h A Mf AA E : + prP EA I^AE.'h+P E: / I'TEA'hi P E'^: t it+B El f. +OAAtAEI1' ppiK ^ptTy-rAA^-yiT'fts^ >/xioB'j.3:t+: T EAff'" E + pppEA|AE:'T'+PE5tTEA E'^l'Wt + P Eft Ty-.v^ t ' Cka-vlta Mlimi. V p r 'V : t BTS /v^: /a^k i»- a^ T£-| i:^: vJ/ToTBVf -.T^* £ I ^t ^ t£Tx-. r^PAvr£-r£-i>y'' .' ITB^aTN'r Yopy: aaT I'fP F3E /vi^ Ff"T.^.+.P£Y)# Is tMofl^iETE •.+PPP£:l«Ao£t£IN|rf . IT'^ W^ A\>"»'£"TA'!'+E '<>v'rV1'-.t+B£" 1 1 ; >^T£'£T it ArE^''^£^r•>Aif'^t ir: •A t+ £: * Ny T£; T p X -^^iTA £■; jFviT£^.tPXMfAi INSCRIPTIONS IN L V C I A . J'lvnUd- 1^- ( " Bu&iuBudd'. Id • a. a. 1 ^^ 5 p-l S ^ S] i- ui < %- ^ d. «- lU <- * 0. <- c. y ui UJ <3 %. ^ «- 3 5- <; li ?- < c_ 5» ^^ X t a. UJ H 0. C- LU <- H a a. <- ill ^ i. (S^ I <- 111 Ci ^ > W 2 n. L t. > > *^ UJ #? ^ u 1- id i C- 'ff- <- %' HI ' » L 4' < ■'1 * ■ 1- 't f < t i.t- m a 5- A. ^ ! lil LYCIAN INSCRIPTIONS. 469 additions may be readily seen, they are printed in italics. I have also endeavoured to separate all the words, the points which originally marked them out having been frequently omitted ; here also care has been taken to distinguish between that which is found in the originals and that which has been added, the points being placed only where they occur in your copies of the inscriptions, and the divisions made by me being marked by the separation into words, without stops between them. Still there are a few alterations which could not be easily shown in the printing, as when a stop which appears to be erroneous is omitted, and when a stop is Substituted for a letter; these cases are of rare occun-ence, and the latter only takes place where the letter I appears to have been copied in- stead of the stops, which if the stone is a little chipped might easily be mistaken for that letter. These alterations are of little importance, as the engravings of the inscriptions being at hand, every one who wishes to study the language will naturally recur to them, and not rely upon my transcripts. The inscriptions are placed in the order in which they can be most easily studied, beginning with the bilingual inscription from Limyra, which is followed by the other funereal inscrip- tions, the shorter and simpler preceding those of which the con- struction is more complicated. The decrees on the obelisk at Xanthus are left for the last. In this manner the simple sen- tences lead on to the understanding of those which are more difScult, and much repetition in the explanations is avoided. A literal translation is placed under the line wherever this can be done. It will thus be seen at a glance how much is still wanting. Inscription No. 3. I*late XXXVI. EWEEYA : ERAFAZEYA f METE : PRINAFATU : SEDEREYA : To fivrjiia roSe eTroirja-aro ai,Sapiorinafatu mumrofe : gitenoweou : tMs work made Mumrofe Gitenowe's tedeeme ourppe esede inefe : ginawe eouwe eoue : se chorttj'e son for wife his him and lada seine samate teyge : kweyewes : meine neyeso esede inefe : eptewe : itepata seeye : itatutu : tese meite a<^adawale : ada: III. whoever lei bury herein pays a fine ados 3. Very little of this inscription has yet been made out. The second word prinaro is probably mis-copied, and should per- haps be prinqfo, a noun derived from the verb prinafami, or another form of its participle. Esede inefe occur in the last in- scription commented upon ; their position here shows that these LYCIAN INSCKIPTIONS. 487 words apply to some part of the family, but I have not been able to trace their meaning; the following word gmawe is either the genitivre or dative of gina, another term for wife ; in Zend ghend has this meaning (Burnouf, Comm. p. 272) ; and the Greek 'fjvq is also related to it. Some of the following words are al- ready known to us, but not enough to give any clue to the meaning of the middle part of the inscription ; the conclusion IS similar to that of No. 14, imposing a fine upon trespassers. Inscription No. 13. Plate XXXVI. ewuinu : /»nnaiu : mute prinayktu : e . . . emino . . a semoteoA : this work made N. Semote's tedeeme : ourppe : atle : eouwe se : une : eoAwe. son. for self his and mother his. In the original copy the last word but one is yune ; I have substituted a stop : for the I, which leaves une, a word which occurs elsewhere, and which has been already compared with the Arabic um, signifying mother. The rest of the inscription requires no remark, all the words having been already met with. Inscription No. 15. Page 36. ewuinu : gopu : mete /^rinafatu : apinutama oiirppe : lade : this tomb made Apinutama for wife Sofiwe ; se : tedeeme : meepi : podu : teite gawra .... we : his and children. eazzeye : kwayra. The beginning of this inscription requires no explanation, being similar to several already considered; I have not been able to make anything out of the latter part, in which every word is unknown, and several of the letters are probably incorrect. 488 APPENDIX B. It is useless to write out all the imperfect inscriptions, so I will merely run through those which remain on Plate XXXVI., making such remarks as suggest themselves upon each. No. 1 is in Phoenician, accompanied with a Greek transla- tion : both are very imperfect. No. 2, the tomb of Medemode : several words are wanting at the end of the first line, and the whole is very imperfect. No. 4 is a short funereal inscription very imperfectly copied, which contains nothing of interest. No. 6 contains only the end of what appears to have been a long fanereal inscription ; it ends with the mention of a fine of twelve adas. No. 9 is a funereal inscription, of which only the first part of each line is copied, so that we have not more than a third part of the whole. No. 10. The Lycian words are Lezue, the son of Soukaza ; the Greek are eTrtrwrj^avovTo? tov ovifivdov, between which I can discover no connection : eTrtTuv^avcav occurs as a man's name on one of the Greek inscriptions which you have brought home, and may be so here ; in which case he may be the artist, and Lezue the owner of the tomb. No. 11, a monument erected by Ddapssana; the lines are in- complete at the end, and a great part of the inscription is very incorrect and unintelligible. The second line begins ourppe prineze eo4we orewellawa, for his beloved Orewella ; the last word being apparently the name of the wife of the owner of the tomb. No. 12 seems to want the termination of each line, and the whole is full of errors : it is a funereal inscription beginning in the usual manner, but too imperfect to be understood. No. 16 contains only the beginning of each line of a long ■funereal inscription in the usual style, ending with the infliction of a fine. More than half of each line is lost, but what we have is tolerably correct. LYCIAN INSCRIPTIONS. 489 No. 17 is very incorrect, and in the same manner has only the commencement of each hne. No. 19 is part of a long funereal inscription in a very imper- fect state : two or three words can be made out here and there, but the rest is quite hopeless. No. 22 is a similar inscription in rather better condition than the last, yet too imperfect to be made out. No. 23 is an inscription of a different class, and which promises more interest than any of the others; but it is so im- perfect that I can make nothing of it. Comparing it with the drawing of the monument on which it occurs, at p. 219 of your former Journal, the first part appears very nearly complete, but only a few detached words have been copied of the lower part. The inscription does not begin in the manner of any of those we have yet met with, nor does it contain any words of a funereal character ; and I should rather think that it is a royal decree in the style of those on the obelisk at Xanthus. In the second Una are the words S^B^ : P/'SB^'J^, the second of which requires some correction, and should probably be P ASAT, leaving the e as part of the next word, and making sewe pasau, of the king of kings, an expression which occurs on the obelisk, and which willbe fully discussed hereafter. Zersse, in the first line, has a strong resemblance to Xerxes ; but it would be rash to assert it to be that name fi-om such imperfect evidence, and without understanding the context. From the manner in which the letter B is used as a vowel, I am in- cUned to think this one of the oldest of the inscriptions you have copied, but not quite so ancient as those on the first two sides of the obehsk at Xanthus. In the present imperfect state of this inscription I canno^; even divide it into words. It is to be hoped that future travel- lers in Lycia will endeavour to make a better copy of this .document, the contents of which may be of great historical interest. 490 APPENDIX B. Inscriptions on the Tomb of Payara. The three following inscriptions occur upon different sides of the same monument, and have therefore, in all probability, some reference to one another : for this reason they are here brought together, although I can throw very little light upon them. The monument itself is represented at the frontispiece, and again at p. 228 of your former Journal, where one of the in- scriptions may be seen : at p. 230 of that volume is a repre- sentation of the bas-relief on the other side of the tomb, with an inscription over it, and Plate XXIII. of the present volume represents the figures and inscription at the end of the t6mb. The monument is very beautiful, and the sculpture upon it of the highest style of art. At the end of the tomb are two armed figures, with the fol- lowing inscription ; — payara : ed tedeeme raou : teluze peaty gee of etstere g eyeyu era/azeya : er ame prifagu owawe : te : r gmzdeayi . . de This is obviously incomplete ; and I suspect that you have not allowed space enough in the drawing for the words lost at the end of each line : several of the letters must be corrected before the words can be pronounced. Payara is the name of the owner of the tomb, and is pro- bably one of the heroes represented in the accompanying bas- relief : the next word has been the name of his mother, followed by tedeeme, son : teluze is the aorist or participle of a verb, of which I cannot determine the meaning : by a very slight cor- LYCIAN INSCRIPTIONS. 491 rection we obtain in the seventh Une erafazeya, which occurs in the bilingual inscription No. 3, translated iivqim, a tomb : all the rest is quite unintelligible. The inscription over the battle-scene on one side of the tomb is not very perfect : with some slight corrections we may read payara manage se prinafantu prinafu ewuinu, Payara and Manage caused this work to be made. The name of Payara is obtained by merely changing/ into r; the second word is more doubtful; nor is it clear whether the verb is as given above, in the plural, or prinafatu, in the singular. Over the group of figures on the other side of the tomb is an inscription, of which I can make nothing. ~ eweeya grofata meeye peyetu : rat . . at . . a : gssadrapapr a : pdu : teluze : epatte : tramefes ema The only words which I can recognisfe here are eweeya, ihe feminine of this, and trdmele, l/ycian. The inscription under the battle-scene, represented at Plate XXXI, is also a complete puzzle to me, as I cannot make out whether it is to be read continuously or in short detached sen- tences, applying to the difierent groups of figures : as I can give no explanation of any part of it, I have not repeated it here, and merely refer to the Plate containing it. Inscriptions on thk Obelisk at Xanthus. Having gone through all the shorter inscriptions, we now come to, the most important, which cover the four sides of the Obelisk at Xanthus, represented at Plate XX. In these I am able to translate very little. In the short funereal inscriptions, which differ very little from one another, the context points out the meaning of many of the words, which may be considered as certain, if it is confirmed by finding an analogous word in any of the languages to which Lycian is 492 APPENDIX B. related ; but in a long inscription, such as we are now going to examine, of which the subject is quite unknown, this resource is of no avail, unless a sufiBcient number of words in the same sentence can be determined, to form a connected sense : in the present state of the study this is very rarely the case. On the north-east side of the monument, about twenty lines are wanting at the top to make up the same height as on the north-west. The first four lines which foUow this blank are in Lycian, but so imperfectly copied as to defy all attempts at ex- planation ; and in the last line of the four there is a mixture of Greek and Lycian characters, which causes complete confusion. The next eleven lines are in Greek : it would be of great assistance towards understanding the Lycian inscriptions on this monument if we could read this part, and gain from it a general idea of the subject ; but it is unfortunately the most imperfectly copied, and only a few words can be made out here and there. L/ycia and lynans occur several times, but with an inaccuracy of spelling, being written Xv^ua and Xijfia : this circumstance is in itself very slight, but shows us that we must not expect very good orthography in the rest. In the third Une we may read KM TO ae fjLov /jLvrj/jLa {ae being used for oei), or km roBe fiou firnfjM ; in either case this is enough to show that it is a decree running in the first person. In the next line, apirar/o vio<; apia-revis, or apia-reva-aeyede, the plural of their ; mede, the Medes ; and mle, a man, or men. Ueri, in line 41, seems related to the Zend vira, and the Latin vir, a man ; and in ute we have to choose between the Zend uta, or, and aiti, voila (Comm., p. 65 of the Introduction). In the last sentence the construction depends upon teri, be- yond, which is repeated four times ; and several towns may be expected to be named : in hne 44 erekle is Heraclea ; in the next line waglaza vaiLy be Bargasa, a town in Caria mentioned by Stephanus Byzantinus. The only name I can detect besides these two is tro4o4eiu, which relates to the Troes ; but as the last lines are very imperfectly copied, there may be others undiscovered. The few words thus translated are not suiBcient to show the subject of this inscription : in the upper part are some expres- sions which suit a tomb, but they are not confirmed by the latter part of the inscription, nor by those on the other sides of the stone. It is remarkable that Ormuzd is not once named, nor have we met with the phrase king of kings ; yet the mention of the Medes, and of the son of Harpagus, show that this was in- scribed while Lycia was still under the Persian government. There is a great difference between this inscription and the last two which have been examined, in the less frequent use of the letter B and the constant repetition of +, which has par- tially taken the place of B. The +, which was only used once or twice on the 'north-east and north-west sides of the monu- 2l 514 APPENDIX B. mentj is here used fifty-six timesj and the B only occurs singly twenty-two times, being less than half of the number there met with ; yet the former letter never occurs doubled, while B B is found here as often as before, and when thus doubled is used as a vowel, while the single B may here be always rendered by our w. It seems, therefore, that it is only for some particular pur- poses that the B has been changed for another letter ; not that the two characters are equivalent to one another. The cha- racter HR is used nearly the same as elsewhere. The letter DC, which we did not meet with before, is found here four times ; none of the words in which it occurs enable us to fix its value, which we shall find better determined in the next inscription, where it is more common. South-east side of the Obelisk at Xanthus. 1. — ya : proleya : ute pddu 2, ya : seye sttewelerona 3. e : ttimade : t77gajzeye me it 4. u : se ueuere se rezuaa : tey 5. • em rououul*de gwewi : wi 6. amede : arosi : kwewo ; to 7. z se*rewo gwkwe : kwewo 8. '— i/ere fetewe komeaeya 9. ede pzzfdeze*alamawe : to 10. ottwaA2HA- [ITAI]. Ulp. Phila, 163. •Philargetes, 106. Philetus, 46, 120. Philinnon, 95. Philippi, city, xiii. . COL. IVL. PHILIPPENS. Philippus, 100. Philocalus, 89. Ti. CI. Philocalus, 97. Philocles, 141. Philoetistes, 63. PhQoponus, 70. Philumenus, 132. Pinara, city, 142, 144: HINA- PEQN, niNAPIAOS. Pisedarus, 144. Pisithea, xxx. Platon, 172. Claud. Platonis, 142, 146. Polemo, 50 (?). Polychronia, 41. Polychronius, i. 41. Poly crates, 173. Pompejus, iy. Poseidon, god Neptune, 157: nO- 2EIAQNI. *Primaea, 106. S. Marcius Priscus, 159, 160. CI. Vel. Proc[u]la, 134, 169. Protogoras, 3 (?). Ptolemseus, 91, 173. M. Aiir. Ptolemseus, 182. Publius, 153. Pyrrhus, 28. Pythia, games, 22. Quartus, xxiv. Fl. Quintius Eros Monaxius, 18. KYINTI[02]. Quintus, 166 : K0NT02 ; viii. xxxii. 81: K0INT02 ; xix. : KOYINT02. Quintus Licinius, xxxii. Leo Quintus, 81. Q. Vehus Titianus, 169. Quirina, tribus, 8, 198. KYPEINA. Rhodus, island, 99. INDEX OF PROPER NAMES. 533 Rome, city, 22. Romans, 16, 44, 92, 140. Rufus, 170. P. M. Att. Sabina, 46. Sarpedon, xxxvii. Saipedonis, 173. Satuminus, xxiv. C. Jul. Satuminus, 162. Sebasta, games, 22. Serapis, god (89), 90: All HAIil SEPAHEI; 151: All HAISI SEPAniAI. Sextus, X. Sextus (SeSSros), Marcius Pris- cus, 159, 160. Siculinus, 134. Sidyma, city, 153 : S1AYMEY2. Smyrna, city, 22. Socrates, 35, 197. Sosander, 91, 95. Sosibius, 131 (?). Sostratus, 166 (?). M. Aur. Soterichus, 2 (?). Soteris, 141. Nigr. Stasithemis, 133. Stephanus, 134, 155. Aurel. Stephanus, xv. 124. Aur. Symphorus, xv. S3mesis, 142. Tatia, 55, 58. Aurel. Tatia, 44. CI. Ant. Tatiana, 38. Tatianus, 41. CI. Tatianus, 51. Taurinus, 158. Tauropolis, city, i. e. Aphrodisias, 17. TAYPOYnOAlTON. Ti. CI. Telemachus, 166. •Telesias, 145. Telesphorus, 50. Telmessus, city, 100, 101, 109 : TEAMHSSEY2: 101 : TEA- MHIiSIS. Jul. Tertulla, xxxiv. Ti. Fl. Thalamus, 133. Thargelipn, month, vi. FI. 'Thasia, 55. Theaetetus, 52. Themistocles, 188. Theodoras, 16, 181. Theodotus, 86, 105 (?). Theophrastus, 35. Thera, city, 21 : eHPAIflN. Thesmophoria, festival, vi. Theudas, ii. Tib. Claud., see under Claudius. Tib. Jul., see under Julius. Timarchus, xxxvii. 7. Tineius, 85. Q. Vel. Titianus, 169. Tlepolemus, 112. Tlos, city, 126, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 135, 141 : TASiEYS. Tolmidas, 44. Trajanus Divus, 169. Trajanus Augustus, month, 44. Tryphsena, xlii. 80. Trypho, xv. M. Ulp. Trypho, 198. CI. Trjrphosa Paulina, 23. UUades, 82. 534 INDEX OF GREEK WORDS. Ulpia Phila, 163. Ulpius Apellas, 55. Ulpius Charito, 55. Ulpius Epaphroditus, 133. M. Ulpius Trypho, 198. CI. VeUaProcula, 134, 169. Q. Velius Titianus, 169. Vespasianus, 11, 159. Xanthicus, month, 42, 49. Xanthus, god (of the river?), 165. Xanthus, city, 158, 162, 163, 164, 166, 177: ^ANGIOS. Xenocritus, 187. CI. Aurel. Zelus, 47. Zeno, 20, 21, 24, 25, 26, 27T 28, 44, 52, 53, 54, 120, 141, 198. Zeus, i.e. god Jove, 5 ; Panemerius, 90; Helios SerapiSj 90, 151. Zeuxis, 202. Zosime, 153. Aur. Parthena Zosime, 168. Zosimus, xxxii. 51, 100, 106, 130. Aur. Zosimus, 158. Zoticus, 90. INDEX OF THE MOST REMARKABLE GREEK WORDS OCCURRING IN THE INSCRIPTIONS. l^Such words as are not found in the London edition of Stephanus, Thes. Ling. Grac, are printed in capital letters.'] A instead of AI : K:a[I], 24, 169, 172. A instead of AY: KXASios, 45 ; eArov, 105. AI instead of E : avAlveu)Ori, 17. A Si, 73. ayaXfiara, 24, 25, 169. ayeveios navKparis, 22. ayeveiot, 22, 100. ciyyos SiKawSoTTis, 129. v'ws TToXeias, 8. ayiavL^eaOai, 128, 166. aywyoBerew, 100, 168. aSb)poSoKriTos, 88. aeros, 5. ariTTrjTos, 18. aQXriaas evSo^us, 21 ; — (cat eirifit- \b)s, 22. aiiav, 22, 92. aia)vws, 21, 63, 92, 93. aXafiapyfris, 157. aXeiTovpyriTos, 88. oXtrjjpios, 89. INDEX OF GREEK WORDS. 53i aWoSavos, 90. afiapavTos, 4 (I), afiapTbiXos, with dative, 142, 182; genitive. 145. afte/iTTTos, 88. aftoifiri, 21. avaBrifiara, 32, 88. avaQpe\l>afievi), 46. avAIveuSn, 17. avaXrjfifiaja, 14. ava\i/i/(Hs, 71, avaiS. 103. avaaTpeij>o/mi, 128. avaarpoijiri, 24, 25. aVlOTTIfU, 17. avyetov, 77, 78, 79. avSpias, 2, 21, 24, 25, 38, 165, 169. avevo^TjTos, 59. aveptOevros, 88, aveypia, 38. avOpunriyws, 25, 27. avoi^ai, 184. avY^m, 63. aiTjOTpari/yos, 159. avTiypa^ov, 10, 42, 44, 45, 51, 54. avwBev, 91. aJioXoywraroi, 9, 100, 166, 182. airaKKorpioia, 42. airofiiiaaai, 144. aTodeufievos, 48. atroQetaais, 51. aiToreiaaTia, 54, 144. airoreiaei, 42, 45, 46, 55, 117, 158. aire rou fievriarov, 88. apyvpwv, 48, 50, 51, 53, 145. — — — Srjfiov PwnaiUy, 44. APMAIS, 133. ap^aipeffia, 88. ra apxeia, 10, 88, 144, 153, 158, 183. apxiarpos, (56), 167. rijs iroXews, 80. apxiepeia, 13, 23, 47 ; A;)uos A^poleiaieiiiv, 16, 62. fujjxos ]LaZvavheii)v, 117, 121. tSavOiwv, 162. Xlu/apeftij/, 142, 144. TeX/itiaaetiiv, 101. T\(tfe(uv ,132, 141. Snjiioirif, 87, 94. h-qvapia, 44, 121, 144. *Srivapaia, 109. , 41, 43, 45, 48, 50, 53, 54, 101, 117, 130i 131, 132, 135, 141, 142, 153, 158, 167. 182. SiaSoxoi, 45, 56. Kara StaSoxijv, 141. Zial^utfia, 19, 169. ^iae.;nj, 14, 45, 164, 166. Bia[xovij, 18, 93. ZiaaqfWTaTOS fiyefioiv, 18. StaTiipew, 128. BittifiepovTa, 21, 93. SiKaioSoTris, 129. Sts after a proper name, with a genitive following : 25, 100, 102, 111, 112, 130 03), 143 (;3), 144, 153, 166; without a genitive following: 89, 153, 173. 183 (j3?). Sixa, 130. Bpa-jQia, 172. E instead of AI : eira^rjvE, 124; kE, 132. E instead of EI(?): e7re[I] 50, 51. o^et\e(76[I], 153. oiKe[I]oT)jra, 16, EI instead of E : eyelcero, yelvojievos, 91. INDEX OF GREEK WORDS. 537 EI instead of I : ^//lEIv, 21. OXvfx^Ela, 22, 1. 26 ; (OXv^jrla, 22.1. 29.) KaTreroXEIa, 22 ; ^iXorei/iEIa, 23. Ao/htFAvos, 37. AfpoSElTt), 13. A0poS£I(Tiewv, 16, 22. rEI^ij, rEI/iow. 21, 22, 23, 25, 27. 30., 32, 35,36, 55, 152. (pikoT'Elfios, 30. lieraKElt'eb), 42, etc. TToXEIriji and iroXFArevofiai, 21, 172. woXEItikos, 165. KXEIvn, 132, 136. vEU)/, vEI/caw, 22. 100 ; and all proper names compounded with NtKJ/. aTTorEIoi, 158, etc. wpoSayElsfios, 94. fyyoi/os, 51, 101, 117, 119, 143, 153, 169, 198. eOj'os AvKiwv, 128, 162, 163, 164, 166, 169. edvos Kai TToKis, 152. eilo(popos, 45. ' eiKoves, 21. eiKoves ypaiTTai, 24, 93. ev 6ir\nts ewiyfpvaois, 25. ei fill ftovoy, 158, 167. ei fiovov, 183. etprjvapxvs, 2. *e£pwrai, 48. eisavyeXia, 91. eisPiaofioi, 117. [e]ts«i«rnj, 41, 48, 51. — TrXaictyos, 55. eiswaTt), 42, 44, 53, 57. EKBIBAZQ KAHPON, 166. eKyovos, 40, 44, 47, 66. fKliKriaaadai, 41, 43, 45, 48, 49 (eyliK), 50, 145. exSoins, 42. EKTOS, 101. ecros eav //jj, 121. €Kpeii>, 158. EAAION, 109. eXevfas, 131, 135,"141, 142, 144, 182. eXevOepin, 16. EAeONTOS A, 182. eXXoyjjuuraros, 17. e/xPaiverw, 190. e./ (.?), 132. evyoj'oi, 158. evypaipws, 42, 91, 130. cveyiq;, 184. evoxos, 51. evrew^is f)ye/iot'iicti, 42. e^aei, after a proper name, 44. e^eSpa, 93. e^e., 153, 167. e^oSia^d), 95. efuOev, 132. ef 38, 163, 169. KpiJrapX*'. 18. KTUXTTIS, 47, 126. Kvpeia, 131. (cupcosi2i, 60, 51, 71,92,94. XafiirpoTaTOS, 21, 127. Aeyewv eKKatSeKorij OXav'i'a ,41,44, 49, 50, 145. irposeSpevb), 92. TrposeiritTKeva^bJ, 142. TrpoaKTiviov, 169. TrposTrepiijtepeaOai, 88. irposTatrtru), 145. wposTei/iov, 144, TTuXlJ, 17. irvpyiOKOs, 101, 102. irupyos, 195. pr\Tiiip, 29. ae^aoTOs, 8, 13,55, 91, 126, 135, 152, 159, 164, 202. aefxvoTris jSiov, 28. ariKos, 153, 155. arina, 104. SOPION, 55. <7opos, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 48, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 59, 67, 83, 134, 141, 183. ITOopos, 10, 43, 46, 47, 48, 52. 54. 80. arparriyos, 2. AvTOKparopoi, 129. avv^efii)K(as, 24. 26, 27. avvirepi^epeaOai, 88. avvt^opai Tv\ris, 28. avv^ios, 9, 110. trui/yei/jjs. (9), 18.. 40. 103, 158. trucKAjjrtKos, 9, 37, 40. avvTpo^ri aSe\(pri, 141. avvxbipeia, 42, 43, 45, 51, 109. 130. 132. 134. 135, 141, 183. (Tuvj^ufpijaets], 52. ffx[o\a<7rticoi], 17. aufiaTeiov, 43. (TWTijp Kai evepyerris tov Koafiov, 159. auTTipia, 18. raXaiTtaiot ayuves, 22. ToXavroj' apyvpiov, 145. ra/xeiov lepwraTov, 41, 43, 45, 46, 54, 130. 167. 182. TOV Kvpiov AvTOKparopos Kai- aapos, 50. raupoKa[0a7rrat]. 20. ra^os. 183. 186. rei/jij, see under EI. CIS TBLfMS Ttl)V JjefiaoTuv, 55. reixos, 17. TETpaKL after a proper name. 52 (?). 54, 101. 542 INDEX OF GREEK WORDS. TOTTos eitiatifioraros, 21. Toiroi Zr\fwaioi, 24, 25, 27. rpteria, 22. rpts after a proper name, 153. Tfofevs, 142. TVfiflwpvxos, 44, 49, 50. Y instead of 01 : veowYoi, 4.1,53 ; \Yira, 41 ; avv- iai, 53. Y instead of YI : Yos, 29, 58, 108, 143. iyieia, 18. vlos iroXews, 8. v'i(i)vos, 169. woBiKOi, 9, 40, 162, 200. vwaros, 16, 169. hirepTiQeaQai, 88. wjreufluyos, 41, 92. hwqpeaia, 30. tiiroSei«yyKa aperqs, 27, 33. iwo/Jivrjins, 63. j7rovo0ei/(Tts, 87. 'YnoaOPION, 182, 193. inroffxeirts, 30, 81. vairXriyi, 41. ^ajutXia, 20. 0(\oSo£(a, 32. ^iXoSo^os, 14. ^(XoSo^ws, 88, 128. ^(XoKaurop, 13. (jtiKoTrarpts, 166. ^tXoTToXts, 14. i\opo>fiaios, 8. fiKooTopyais, 88. 0tXoretjuos, (^), 30. fiaKos AvTOKpaTopos Kaiaapos, 48, 51, 53. ^uXij, 88. ^uffEt (utos), 15, 34. i^(i), 165, 169. (tir/ia, 21, 27, 43, 93. Q, instead of OY, 83. A Si, 73. THE END. ERRATA. Page 87, line 2, far sembance read semblance. Page 212, Ime 1,for Promontorium read Promontorium, Page 235, line 12, for Cyprus read Cypres. Page 347, line 5, for Julia read Flavia. Page 350, Une S,for ptiaiv read priaeis. Page 355, No. 56, line i,for Sia Soxiav read Siaioxi»v. Page 361, line last,/'or Page 45 read Page 37. Page 364, No. 87, line 12, fn- Kaiaapos read Kaiaapos. Page 389, No. 129, line i,for ex rqs read exTtis. In the heading to the Inscriptions, facing /)a$re 368, >^ temple read council-hall. PRINTED BY RICHARD AND JOHN E. TAYLOR, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET. .^ftiw^^if-^^'.t: 'jj'Vfj^