The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924052675158 3 1924 052 675 158 i^^ ^. ^^^, MY NORTHERN TRUYELS THE t RESULTS tOF t FSITH t RW PRfiYER. BASED UPON A TOUK OF NINE MONTHS THEOUGH ILLINOIS, INDIANA, MICHIGAN, NEW YOEK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA AND CANADA. "W'ith the Author's Autobiography. BY JULIA A. WOOD. .A-SHL-A-^sriD, OHIO. THE BRBTHBBIir PXJBLISHING- HOXJSK. iBa7. DEDICATORY, ^^pj-^ The book Is kindly dedicated to the entire Brotherhood, especially those I visited, knew and loved. Also my nnmerous acquaintances scattered over the United States are cordially invited to give it a careful perusal— its sim- ple and honest statement of facts, hoping to interest different denomina- tions, classes, vocations and sections. And I pray you, remember with for- bearance, that what might not interest one may another. "Many men of many minds." "Look not every man on his own things, but every man al- so on the things of others,"— Philip. 2:4. As a mental recreation and strength to those of little faith, this book is recommended to the afflicted also. INTRODUCTION, In tile outset, it Is Important to state a few things Introductory to Travels, The object of It : From an accidental cause, my health was enfeebled a year. As a necessary relief, a change of climate and sight-seeing were urged by many friends. Beluga great lover of home; and for the lack of requisite funds for this health-tour, I was subjected to a strait. Like many other land-holders. South of Mason's and Dixon's Line, the "cruel war" had placed us under such peculiar disadvantages, we could not command surplus funds as in days of yore. Disabled and suffering, I resolved to secretly pray to God to open a way for means of relief.— A genuine prayer of unswerving faith in Jehovah-Jireh. Meanwhile I wrote my absent relatives of my conclusion to travel for my health, asking no assistance. In reply from Brother Henry, then about 3,000 miles away, he said : "A long travel is the very best thing you can do ; monthly, I shall furnish you with enough money to see every thing of intei-- est to be reached."— A direct answer to my fervent, secret prayer to God to send me help from some where.— "How great are his signs ! and how mighty are his wonders !"— Dan. 4 : 2, 3. I wrote thanks and blessings upon that thoughtful brother ; and devoutly praised God for His goodness and this special providence to me. In response to a most cordial and ever highly appreciated Invitation from friends at Lanark, Carroll Co., Illinois, to attend the Conference of the Ger- man Baptist Brethren, to convene there, I assured them it was at last my determination to be with them at an early day. "With limited funds in pocket ; an Abrahamic faith and trust in God, I bade a sad adieu to home and friends, and began my liealth-tour Northward- My Northern Travels. CHAPTEE I. WASHINGTON, D. C. May 27, 1880, my IS'orthern travels began. Spent that night with kind friend Mrs. Allen Hill, at Scottsville, Ya. The next afternoon, at JS'orth Garden Depot, Albemarle Co., via the Ya. Mid- land E. E., I was placed under the care of a travelling acquaintance, expecting to join a party of friends further on. Arrived at Washington, 9 : 30, P. M. ; applied to the agent for my round-trip ticket to our Con- ference. "Those tickets will not be here till 4 P. M. tomorrow." My travelling assistant regret- fully said : "My ticket and checked baggage com- pel me to leave you at once : my train is about starting." In this painful dilemma and disappointment, I exclaimed to the agent, what shall I do? so feeble ! and no one to help me ! In a most gentlemanly A MY NORTHEKN TRAVELS. manner he promptly had me and some of my bas;- gage conveyed across the street to a hotel. Next morning, the polite and kind proprietor hearing of my distress and feeble health, also that I was a stranger in that city, among other nec- essary information, his timely advice concerning the disposition of my round-trip ticket finally proved a gain of flO.SO instead of a supposed loss by detention there. Then I again thanked God for his special provi- dence over me. This extremity was Jehovah- Jireh's opportunity to provide for me. — Psalm 34 : 7-22. That proprietor and wife are kindly remembered. Wishing to go to a point near that hotel to look after some important business, entering a street- ear, to my surprise, it was crowded with passen- gers — barely standing room. It was Decoration day at "Arlington Heights," just out of the city; crowds of people were going there with lots of lovely flowers for the soldier's graves. Soon' as I entered the car, an attractive and beautiful mannered young lady, a few seats above the door, quickly arose, most kindly saying : "Take my seat ; I'm more able 'to stand than you." "With praise to God for his special providence in every time of need aqd in profound gratitude to her for this admirable act, I made a few remarks which seemed to fully compensate her for that kindness to one so feeble. WASHINGTON, D. O. • O Arrayed in the "modest apparel" of the church of my faith and choice, I was surprised to receive marked attention in such a crowd of the gay and fashionable. So pleasantly entertained by that lady ; for recreation, I rode miles through the city and enjoyed it very much. Eeturned to the hotel and said to the landlady ; I Tcncm I met a lady today ; indeed find the Wash- ingtonians a very courteous people. Apparently a gratifying speech to her. Next came the hour to purchase my round-trip ticket to Conference. Informing the agent I had- no friend to assist me along my route, requested him to inquire if any reliable travelling person would do so for a feeble lady. Asking my narne he beckoned a gentleman to us and introduced Maj. Koontz one of the R, R. Officials, who as- sured me he would do his best for my comfort and care. Returning he regretted that none of his friends would be on the train. SPECIAL PROVIDENCE. I was conducted to my seat in a Pullman's car," via the B. & O. R. R. Surrounded by strangers, again I felt much distressed. I^one to assist me, I secretly prayed God to provide help in this dilemma. Two gentlemen (friends of each other) sat near ; I listened to their conversation, closely observing their manner. I read character from the 4 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. face — the index of the heart. Being convinced they were honorable, 1 ventured to inform them of my strait and feeble health, asking their neces- sary assistance. Most gentlemanly they said, "With pleasure, we will," informing me they were "sent as delegates to the Chicago Convention, to nominate Jas. A. Garfield lor President ;" also gave me their names as Mr. Birch a merchant of Alexandria and Mr. Bangs of the Treasury De- partment, Washington, D. C. Here I met very polite and kind gentlemen who would look after my need. Again I secretly thanked God for that direct answer to my prayer, and for His sj^ecial provi- dence over me. "Bless the Lord, O my soul, and forget not all his benefits.'' Unable to walk much ; at every station for refreshments, these gentlemen ascertaining what I wished, rushed off to bring me mine. After dis- patching theirs, hurried back to me to return every thing to its place at the lunch room. That was continued, at stations, throughout our 800 miles ride to Chicago. There they saw me and my baggage safely landed at our destination. With many good wishes they bowed me a polite adieu. 50,000 visitors had assembled at that city of 503,304 inhabitants to nominate their man for President. IS^otwithstanding that immense gath- ering, the Lord provided for insignificant me. CHICAGO, ILL. 5 RENEWED SPECIAL PROVIDENCE. Entering the depot I soon saw a number of people dressed in the "modest apparel'' of my church. Ascertaining they were members, I in- formed them of my disappointment and signal failure to join friends at the earlier part of my journey ; also of my feeble health and fatigue, ask- ing their assistance, as they, too, were en route for our Conference. My name being asked and given, they smilingly said, "I know you ; have often read your publica- tions in our papers." I was then introduced to quite a number of ladies and gentlemen who were as cordial and kind as possible. Heartily I thank- ed God for that renewed special providence, and His manifold kindness in my emergency. Had traveled 1,150 miles from home ; the fourth day I began to grow too feeble and suffering to sit up. Then 50 miles more to be accomplished. The dear ladies, constantly at my side, informed the conductor of my u'ter fatigue. Quickly un- screwing the back of a seat soon had me made as comfortable as he could. In my increasing agony of body, one of those ladies tenderly pressed my aching brow ; one sat close to my feet ; and two at my side. Open- ing my eyes to observe their gentle and loving care of my prostrated and agonized body, I said : "You are my good angels ; black eyes and blue MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. eyes, watching over me. — They seemed to appre- ciate that expression. CHAPTEE II. LANARK, CARROLL CO., ILLINOIS. Arrived at my destination, Lanark, May Slst, 10 : 14 P. M., the accommodating conductor very kindly delayed his train until arrangements could be made to carefully move me off. My dear, good friends, Sister Wealthy A. Clark (now Mrs. D. C. Burkholder) and Brethren H. E. Holsinger, and W. A. Adams were awaiting my arrival, and took me down street on a chair to my appointed place in that prairie town of 1,200 inhabitants. So far fi'om home, I was delighted to meet that trio of friends. I told them of the great kindness received all the route. Bro. Holsinger replied in a most feeling and impressive tone, "God will take care of His faithful children." Often that sentence has rung in my believing ears. ' To have me quiet and not crowded, I was first quartered in the family of Mrs. Trescott, a Metho- dist. Every attention that kind hearts and hands could devise was lavished upon poor suffering me. Through that night, my meditations upon God's LANARK COJNFBRENOB. 7 loving kindness ; His special providence over me, so increased my faith and love that my whole heart over- flowed with "sacred pleasure." Although great suffering pervaded my entire body, the "joy unspeakable" was fully mine; could "glory in tribulations." CONFERENCE. Crowds of people, from different states had as- sembled at Lanark for Conference. My arrival being announced through the press, next day, scores of friends came up to call upon me. So prostrated, I had to receive in a recumbent posi- tion. As they seemed desirous to see me, that was a stimulus to welcome all, and speak a few words to each one. Secretly I deplored my inability to attend the Conference to which T had travelled 1,200 miles. The second day, ever kind and thoughtful Breth- ren Holsinger and A. J. Hisxon, asked if I would not like to attend the services. Yes, but too feeble, was my response, "We can arrange that if you will go." Agreed. A kind and sympathetic lady across the street loaned me her invalid's chair as long as I needed it. God bless bar ! t A carriage was driven to the side- walk ; those two excellent brethren (then my "bxirden bearers") lifted me down stairs on that comfortable chair 8 MY NOETHERlSr TRAVELS. and soon I was driven to the great Tabernacle, just out of town. Then I was returned to the ex- tension chair, and lifted by this faithful couple into the centre of that immense crowd to see and hear all of interest. . Beloved Sister Wealthy A. Clark always sat beside me and adjusted me comfortably. Of- ten in memory's picture-gallery, the face of that earnest Christian woman appears vividly. Her untiring attention during my feebleness ; her noble - deeds of kindness are indellibly stamped upon the tablet of my memory. God bless her ! and bless all — so many, who were models of kindness to me, so far from home and friends. Then I fully and freely realized the sweet truths of Psalm 37. My day at Conference : Heard many speeches. Prominent amongst them was the Missionary Sub- ject. With a burning zeal for the spread of the Gospel, every word riveted my attention. One thing I could not endorse : that vindictive reply made by one of the Standing Committee to an ap- peal. It was discordant ; I feared the result ; and that end came two years afterwards. Remembering that "God moves in a mysterious way," I have the consoling belief that He will fin- ally "cause all things to wprk together for good ;" foi', "Behind a frowning providence, He hides a smiling face." LANAEK CONFBEBNCE. 9 There is already a rift in the clouds — the day is dawning. "Commit thy way unto the Lord ; trust also in Him and he shall bring it to pass." When the Missionary Cause was mentioned, in the deepest sympathy, my thoughts reverted to our foreign missionary, Bro. C. Hope and family. How I have longed and prayed for what would tend to his deserved comfort and general welfare. Since reading of his expected return to the U. S., I was well pleased at the mention of purchasing him a home in the West, or wherever he may choose a location. I ardently desire for him and his a good one, teeming with comfort, plenty, peace and happiness. He and his dear, patient, self-sacrificing wife, richly deserve it, Newspapers reported 15,000 people attended that Conference during its four days session. Services over, each day, numbers of people came forward for introductions to me upon the invalid's chair. Such pleasant meetings and kind expressions re- ceived, made me sufficiently happy to be joyful amidst my physical pain and prostration. So much sympathy and good will elicited my constant smiles. Enough invitations and engagements from differ- ent states, were made there, which kept me busy travelling and visiting nearly a year. Could all have been accepted, double that time would have been required. They planned, and I was only too 10 MY NOETHER]Nf TRAVELS. happy to reap the harvest of pleasure aflorded me. All along my line of visits, these and similar greetings were often mine : "Spend all the summer here^" "stay tWo months with me ;" "my house is open to you ; come and stay as long as you please ;" "welcome, thrice welcome !" — Magnani- mous invitations to a health-seeking traveller. Christian souls ! they sympathized with me in my affliction ; and as I had for years labored for the cause of Christ through the press, in my ex- tremity, the good Spirit moved them, in answer to my secret prayers, to contribute to my pleasure and relief. Ever will their good deeds be a monu- riient to their memory, emblazoned by my profound gratitude. Fi'om the least to the greatest act of kindness received, is not forgotten, even that bunch of wild flowers presented me by Master Bertie Trescott ; those tempting plums by another little boy — Moore ; those sweet bouquets from other kind hands ; and that "cup of cold water." Agreeable to Holy Writ, the Lord will reward each one if I cannot.— St. Matt. 10 : 42. After the crowd and bustle were over, I was taken upon the invalid's chair to the hospitable home of Bro. M. M. Eshelman, then one of the editors of the Brethren At Work, published in that town. There I was first cordially invited from my home in Ya. My own family-circle (their boarders LAN-AEK, ILL. 11 included) could not have shown me more kindness. — Warmly welcomed ; and bidden to stay a lon^ time by the head of the house. Their family physician, Dr. HalloW called to see me, and pronounced my condition "critical, caused by long travel and fatigue." In a few days (after occupying it ten) I dispensed with the invalid's chair, and walked a short distance down street on a visit. Daily I began to gradually improve ; each day some new plan or visit was thoughtfully arranged for me. I^umbers of kind people were visited in and around Lanark — a worthy town it was then : not a drinking saloon in the place ; not an oath was heard on the streets. Long may it remain so ex- emplary. Also made enjoyable visits to Mt. Carroll and Shannon, of Carroll Co. The former numbered 3,000, and the latter 1,000 inhabitants. CHEESE EACTORT. In that county I visited a cheese factory. Of course they must have first washed their arms and hands before immersing them up to the elbows in that long, deep trough of liquid cheese. That manipulating process I confess, cast some- thing of a damper on my palate. However, after the cakes were finished, moulded and pressed, they looked as inviting as ever. Success to that factory. 12 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. COMMUNION-MEETING. June 16th, attended a communion meeting at Hickoicy Grove, 16 miles from Lanark. All was greatly enjoyed. A long time had elapsed since my last opportunity to attend a communion ser- vice. Being an isolated member, added to other disadvantages, I am unavoidablv deprived of vari- ous church privileges. However, "the lot is cast into the lap ; but the whole disposing thereof is of the Lord." He leadeth me ; and I am content when hedged around by providential barriers. Made many pleasant acquaintances at that com- munion meeting. Visited the kind families of Bro. Geo. ZoUers and Sister Mary Grouse. MISSISSIPPI AND PLUM RIVERS. The 18th, Sisters Elma Grouse, Wealthy A. Clark, Bro. H. Grouse and I drove several miles to view the Mississippi River, then risen to the width of four miles over the low lands. Later it was ten at some points ; higher than for fifty years. Great destruction of property. I ventured to the brink ; as its surging waters swept past me, I dipped the tips of my fingers in it. Had a full view of the State of Iowa across that mighty stream. Was sorry indeed I could not accept the kind invitations to visit friends over there, I met at our Gonference. Quite near, overlooking that river, we spent very 1* A DELIGHTFUL DAT. 13 pleasantly, about two hours at the town of Savan- na, of 1,000 inhabitants. When we left on the train late in the afternoon, the rear car was stand- ing in the rapidly rising water. ^ Its very appear- ance of being swept off the track caused a slight shudder. A watery grave specially horrifies me. That forenoon, prior to reaching the town, our party enjoyed fishing in the Plum River, a tributary to the Father of Waters. The pleasure resulted only in the sport, minus success. The majestic cotton-wood ti'ees overhead, scat- tering their white, silky, filamentous substance upon the water and ground, was quite a novelty, but by no means desirable to have it flying on one's face and over a nice morsel. Alter doing ample justice to our tempting lunch, (especially those nice cherries) which we ate seated upon the ground, we resumed our journey to the Mississippi as previously .described, A delightful day throughout. On that prairie land, it was a real pleasure to ride ; — no hills, no rocks in the road, no ruts, no jolting — ^just drive ahead with Jehu-speed. The most feeble person could enjoy riding. In some sections of Va., it would be almost hazardous and torturing. Good roads are blessings to delicate people. 14 MT NORTHERN TRAVELS. PRATER AND SPECIAL PROVIDENCE. Returned to Lanark well pleased with that trip. I was daily expecting an additional I'ecruit of money for my future journey ; funds were low. Eagerly T opened my mail to know its contents. Sad news ! that enterprise had failed ; a nice am ount of money deposited lost. My prospect for promised funds vanished ! In my Introduction, I told my readers one of my brothers endorsed my resolve to travel ; and promised me, monthly, sufficient money to go and see everything of interest that could be reached. A most unavoidable failure to comply placed me in a dilemma. What about my expected expense ? To beg for myself I was ashamed. I secretly offered up the most fervent petitions in the midnight hours that God would move some one to aid me in the neces- sary travelling means. In a few days, off in Va., an unexpected letter came bringing me $20 from Brother John. Another soon enclosed $5 due me. I humbly thanked God for that special providence, and His direct answers to my earnest prayers of faith. I^one knew of my straits and distress ; all was whispered into the ear. of Jehovah- Jireh. Soon friends near me handed more money in envelopes, saying, "Don't open that now." The good Lord "stirred" their hearts to administer to my need AK ENJOYABLE TIME. 15 which will surely bear interest from Heaven's store-house, drawable by those willing-hearted con- tributors. It may be a spiritual reward, or it may be a temporal, just as their cases deserve. MISOELLANEOtJS. 20th, heard a sermon by a Lutheran minister, in our church at Lanark. The different sermons, Sabbath Schools, and vocal classes were all enjoy- ed wherever T could attend. Prof. J. C. Ewing seemed to be well skilled in the science of voice culture. Good singing is a real attraction, and very important in God's worship. To "sing with the spirit," inspires the congregation with a boly zeal and interest. Those social gatherings at the houses of several of the Lanark families, were also very pleasant and appreciated. CLIMATE AND SOIL. At noon, the heat was as intense as in Va. The only difference, the nights always grew cool enough for some covering. The soil is quite productive; of a very dark color ; close and pasty when wet. Although three weeks later than our planting, their vegetation is so rapid, it quickly gains its growth. MT. MOEEIS. It was a sincere disappointment not being pre- pared to fulfil my engagement to visit Mt. Mori-is, ■ 16 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. Ogle Co, A deep regret at the loss of such an anticipated pleasure, with dear people. With all I did visit in Illinois, my heart-felt thanks and gratitude were left, and continue to abide upon those praiseworthy people. God's blessing upon each one for the untold pleasure and kindness shown me during my four weeks and five days sojourn in their midst. Often my thoughts revert most pleasantly to those people I met. Though scattered in distant lands some are, my memory still clings to tliem with love and best wishes. CHAPTEE III. RAILROAD INCIDBKTS TO CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. July 6th, at noon, accompanied and met by other friends at the depot, I entered the train for Chicago, Illinois, distant 150 miles. Later an elderly lady arose from her seat at a distance ; ap- proaching me said : "Didn't I see you take the train at Lanark ?" Graining my affirmative, (she standing beside me) showed me her excursion ticket entitling her to two more day's travel. Said ON TO CHICAGO. 17 she, in a distressed tone, "The conductor speaks roughly to me ; says the time has expired, and I must pay my fare." I assured her she had the right to pass on that ticket until a certain date specified thereon. "Won't you speak to the conductor in my behalf ?" Being assured my best would be done, she left her ticket in my hands and returned to her seat. Soon he neared me ; handing out the opened ticket for him to stop and look at ; in his hurry to pass, he seemed to mistake me for the owner of it, and grufiEly said : "Didn't I tell you that ticket isn't good ?" and was soon out of sight. Quickly she returned asking me, "What did he say?" Too angry to stop was my response, as- suring her she could and must travel on its merit, which she did unmolested. 7 P. M. we, reached Chicago. To her regret and surprise, ascertained she would be detained there all night. With very limited funds, I sup- pose, she appealed to me to permit her to accom- pany me to the hotel and share ray room. Did all I could to relieve her ; next morning, had her safely landed in time for her train home A grateful old soul ! Ascertaining where she had been visiting at Lanark, I was satisfied she was no fraud. Upon the recommendation of Dr. Fahrney, of Chicago, Bro. A. D. Beachy was appointed to meet and conduct me around to the places of inter- 2 18 MY ]SrOETHEEN TRAVELS. est in that "Garden City." A drive along the banks of -Lake Michigan, on which Chicago is situ- ated, was delightful — the breeze from that broad expanse of water so braced me, my strength reviv- ed. LINCOLN PARK. Beautiful drives in this park ; inviting row boats on its ponds ; the Zoological Garden with its numerous animals, birds and fowls. The sea-lions specially attracted my attention, plunging them- selves to the bottom of the cooling pool that warm day, then swimming most gracefully beneath its clear water. Across a beautiful plot of ground in that park, its name, '"Lincoln," was growing, formed by sow- ing seeds in order to shape its letters with gay flowers. — An artistic design of man, perfected and beautified by Nature's pencil. THE GEEEN HOUSE. The green house with its numerous beautiful plants and flowers, contained a great variety of ferns, from the coarse stag-horn species, to the most delicate and feathery. NOTED HOUSES. Also saw the only remaining house left by that memorable conflagration of October, 1871. JS^ow all of that city is i-ebailt in modern style, — alto- IN CHICAGO. 19 gether the handsomest buildings of the many large cities I visited. The Palmer House is said to be one of the most magnificent structures in the U. S. — a palatial hotel of 500 rooms. The Sherman House has 700, but is less elegant. A TELEPHONE MESSAGE. I telephoned Miss Mary Taylor ward and niece- in-law of Col. T. H. Ellis (both formerly of Ya.) to meet me at the Sherman House, as I not only desired to see what time's changes had wrought upon her in three years, also to inform her of her relatives welfare near my home — Capt. Wm. Hol- man's family. We occupied every moment in conversation un- til the hour for my afternoon steamboat ride of one and one-half miles to the wonderful Crib built in Lake Michigan. From the Old Dominion, in that distant city, I was doubly pleased to meet her, and parted with regret. THE CRIB, IN LAKE MICHIGAN. Aboard the steamer, "she walked the water like a thing of life," afibrding a delightful ride. Pleas- ure seekers from the city, go back and forth from that point two or three times a day. The Crib is a massive rock wall extending high above the surface of the water ; its foundation 20 MY NOETHERN TKAVELS. reaching to the bottom of the lake. It encloses the mouth of a tunnel dug under it, to supply the entire city with pure water, "fresh as the fountain under the gi'ound." Inside of the Crib is also a horlie-like habitation for a man and his family, who keep a long handle skimmer to free the tunnel water from insects chancing to fly there; also to receive all visitors. Among other iisual household furniture, they had a piano in their parlor. Its notes sounded more silvery than those played upon terra firma. Sometimes, during a storm the mountain-like waves dash over that high wall, reaching their very door. They said, "thunder , sounded more terrific there than on land." THE WATEEWOKKS. Also visited the waterworks in the city. This one place, with its huge and magnificent ma- chinery, supplied the entire city with water from that tunnel under the lake. I have never drank more refreshing, clearer, or better tasted anywhere. A CALL VISIT. Made a pleasant call upon Mrs. Hartzell, Was well pleased with all my visits to points of interest in and around Chicago ; also for the satisfactory attention rendered me by my guide. SOUTH BEND, IND. 21 CHAPTER lY. LAKE SHORE E. E. July 8th, 9 A. M., I took the train via the Lake Shore E. li. That is one of the easiest riding roads in the !N'orth. For miles it is on the banks of Lake Michigan. Far as the eye can reach on one side is water. Ever and anon beautiful Pond Lilies are seen, dotted over its surface in shallow places, nodding to the gentle breeze. SOUTH BEND, ST. JOSEPH CO., INDIANA. A travel of 85 miles brought me to South Bend at noon. There my dear sister Rebecca Stude- baker was awaiting my arrival. Truly I felt at home with this kind family of mother and two daughters. How appreciated was the interest of that motherly lady, then nearly an octogenarian. My gratitude wells up when I think of the many kindnesses and pleasures afforded me there. An enjoyable time was promised when I was invito ed and my highest expectations were fully i-ealized. South Bend numbered 13,279 inhabitants — a city of rapid growth and much wealth. Various factories are there. The most noted establishments are the carriage and wagon factories of the firm Studebaker Bros. "With as good a mother as theirs, no wonder they are a quartet, possessing moral and extensive pecuniary worth. — The "seed of the righteous," they are so benevolent in their prosperity. 22 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. STUDEBAKER FACTORIES. They are the largest of the kind in the world. Including sheds etc., they occupied 75 acres of ground. Then they had a capital of a million dollars in them. They have agents upon every continent. 30,000 carriages and wagons are annu- ally turned out ; have a capacity for making one wagon every five minutes. Then employed 900 hands. The four brothers only manage the helm of that mammoth affair. The Carriage Repository contains elegant, and various styles of vehicles, with prices to suit the millionaire, or one of moderate means. I had the pleasure of a ride in one of their $1,200 glistening private carriages, drawn by caparisoned, prancing steeds. That took me back to ante hel- ium days of Va., when many rode in state and had ample funds in bank. Besides their palatial and elegantly furnished residences in that city, they also own numbers of fine houses there and farms in the country. I had the pleasure of drives to them. A HAIiTDSOME BARN". Upon- one of their splendid farms, I visited a barn, which looked like a fit residence for people. Every way its exterior was imposing, and sur- mounted by a towering ornament made of some kind of glistening, yellow metal. Entering that large building, the aisle between PISTE HORSES AND CATTLE. 23 the long rows of stalls seemed to be of granite. Every thing was scrupulously neat and cleaij. One side had 40 stalled, fine horses ; their names printed overhead in large letters, at each entrance ; the other containing 50 cows of extra stock, from the large Durham down to the little Jersey. I also enjoyed looking through one of their pri- vate green houses, beautified with rare plants and shrubs ; quite as pretty a collection as some of the many public ones I have visited. Great taste was displayed in the floral arrangement of their exten- sive groxmds. That family represents the Metho- dist,. Presbj-terian, Episcopal, Baptist and Grerman Baptist Brethren denominations. STUDEBAKEE WAGON. That famous wagon deserves mention for its exquisite mechanism. Wherever necessary, it was beautifully ornamented by inlaid work. Instead of iron, it was finished off" with polished steel. Price $1,000. It took first premiums at the Na- tional Fair at Chicago, the U. S. Centennial Ex- position and the World's Great Fair at Paris ; also at many state expositions. Since my visit, they have greatly increased their business and I take pleasure in soliciting lor them, not only their present extensive patronage, but over the face of the earth. They and their superior work deserve it. "A man that is diligent in his business shall stand before kings." Had I not known and heard of the good deeds 24 MY N"OETHEK]Sr TRAVELS. of that firm, my advertisement and comments upon them and theirs would have been brief. Among many other commendable traits, their marked attention and devotion to all their family, especially to their beloved old mother, whom they delight to honor, prepossessed me in their favor. If any of my readers wish to purchase a good wagon or carriage, address Messrs. Studebaker Bros., South Bend, Ind. Ex-Yice President Schuyler Colfax (now de- ceased,) then resided in that city. When we called, I regretted the announcement that he and his wife had just left for a two weeks visit. PRINTING OPPICE. Also visited a printing oflSce. The press had about completed its regular number of copies. The editor, Mr. Fassett very kindly had j, few more run oft to permit me to see the modus op- erandi of printing by water from the St. Joseph River, either running under or conveyed to that office. Visited numbers of printing offices along my route, operated by steam, and some by muscular power. The one at South Bend was the first and only one I saw moved by water. The polite editor, handed us some of those news- papers, just from the press ; to my surprise, my arrival and place of sojourn in the city were already announced in them. A WOMAN OF SORROW. 25 CHAPTEE Y. NILES, BERRIEN CO., MICHIGAN. 15th, kind Sister Sarah Johnson, of South Bend, drove me six miles to Niles, a pretty town of 3,000 inhabitants, to visit Sister Delia E. Bolin, a poor saint who dwelt there. Seeing her at a little distance, my companion said : "Who is this from a long distance I have brought to see' you?" Her second guess was the writer, to whom she came in a hurry, and with a warm welcome said: "God bless you !" Our joy was mutual and my happiness was as complete in that humble domicile, as if a palace presided over by a queen. She had seen better days ; but since adversity and tribulation had overtaken her, the "pearl of great price" outshone all, and was most richly set in her heart and act. Swiftly the hours flew as we talked about what delighted us. Woman of sorrow ! she lost her af- flicted husband and a child since T saw her. Often memory lingers around that day with blended joy and sorrow. God bless this widow and orphan. During my visit that day, I was gratified at the kindness shown her by an Episcopal lady residing near her. Considerate of her pleasure, added what she could to' heighten the joy of our day. So Christianlike an act must reap a blessing. Also 26 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. made a pleasant call upon Bi-o. John UUer}', of Nilee, then wended onr way homeward same day. A STORM AND SPECIAL PROVIDENCE. The weather was as hot as any we have in Va. Some distance, the roads were through white sand, — Michigan soil ; the land somewhat hilly. As we drove along, happy in our conversations, W3 were startled at the unexpected vivid flash of lightning and sudden peal of thunder, quickly fol- lowed by splashing rain drops. Down went one curtain to our vehicle ; and before any more could be down, a rushing wind and storm of heavy rain and terrific thunder were all in one frightful roar. The gust well nigh swept my breath during its rage ; tried, but could not speak. As the lightning rap-* idly played over the back of our good hoi'se, its glare almost blinding our eyes, it seemed we' would either be struck by Heaven's artillery, or capsized in the road, branch-like, with the rain fall, i^'ot so ; in five minutes, all was over, and I most heartily thanked God. We then bade our faithful animal to resume the journey, from w'hence he had remained stock-still during the storm. Our danger was imminent. I silently cried mightily unto God to protect us. Most signally He did. — A special providence again in answer to my prayer of faith. Storms of that kind are not uncommon there. A MODEL SOCIAL. 27 They rush upon one, then hie away, muttering in the distance. During that summer, I was caught in three thunder and rain-storms, while enjoying my many drives. The last were in Indiana and Ohio. They were about like those we have in Ya. CHAPTBE YI. SOUTH BEND, ST. JOSEPH CO., INDIAKA. A. METHODIST SOCIAL. Evening of the 23rd, attended a Social given by the congregation of the 1st Methodist Church, then under the pastorate of Dr. H. A. Gobin, who was so pleasant. Including the Sabbath School, 200 of that congregation were present, and spent about two hours at one of their residences. They were held from house to house, once or twice a month ; place and time of meeting announced through the press. The order of them : Social conversation ; a nice handed lunch ; the elderly sat around tables. Nothing superfluous, but enough delicacies and substantials to satisfy all, furnished by each mem- ber contributing 10 cts. at every Social. A number of Sabbath School Scholars dispensed 28 MX NOETHERK" TRAVELS. this lunch with much grace and skill. By invita- tions, instrumental music on the piano was render- ed by a visiting lady ; the vocal was sweetly exe- cuted by the Sabbath School. Every one appear- ed happy and well pleased with the evening and seemed strengthened in their social ties as was the object of it. No foolish talk ; no card-playing nor dancing reached ray listening ears. A gathering and Christian conduct worthy of imitation ; an innocent means of recreation ; a doing good by cementing friendship and banishing discord. Not even con- fusion was there ; everything prepared by the caterer, and delivered at one point. Sometimes generous Mr. Clem Studebaker held these Socials at his spacious mansion, and bore the entire ex- pense. I enjoyed the services at their church ; the or- ganist played with skill and beauty. Added to that was a silver cornet blown with the choir, all combined, made grand music. Properly conduct- ed, such music is inspiring. Tn some choirs, one is reminded more of an Opera than the "house of prayer." ST. mart's academy akd cokvent, k otre dame. Sisters E. and M. Studebaker, and S. Johnson and I drove two miles from South Bend, to visit St. Mary's Academy, — ^Roman Catholic. Its sce- *2 ISrOTEE DAME. 29 nery is romantic and picturesque ; situated quite near the St. Joseph River, which is considered one of the most beautiful in the Mississippi Yalley. 80 acres of land are laid out in fine pleasure grounds. Extensive grape-arbors, grottoes, sum- mer-houses, statuary, bright green swards and fountains are pleasingly presented to the eye. That Academy had 150 pupils, under the direc- tion of the Sisters of the Holy Cross. The students are allowed to wear no silks, expensive laces or jewelry ; not even the graduating class. Any ex- pensive or extravagant dress worn by pupils at the closing exercises causes the wearer to forfeit her claim to Academic honors. Simplicity and neatness is the rule there. Worthy of imitation by Protestants. Too often there is rivalry in dress — the vainer or richer trying to outshine the poorer. That consequently creates a bad feeling, besides detracting attention and time from books. During my visit was their vacation. The teach- ers. Sisters Elizabeth, Sophia and Hortense were remarkably affable and kind. In response to their pressing invitation to take dinner, we shall be pleas- ed to "break bread" with you said I. When they ushered our party into the refectory, with some of their visiting guests, I was surprised to see they ate with no visitors ; retired to a separate apart- ment, across the hall. 2* 30 MY N"ORTHERN TRAVELS. After our nice, simple and palatable meal was over, the Sisters quickly joined us, resuming our pleasant conversations and walks of the forenoon. We visited the Museum ; saw beautiful fancy work, enjoyed a look through the Art Gallery. THE CONVENT. Conne9ted with that building, is a Convent, said to be the largest in the U. S. — 300 sisters when all are at home. Some go back and forth on mission- ary business. I conversed with one who arrived that day from a travel of this kind. She was then seated in the out-door air sewing by hand. Upon being asked if it would be an intrusion for me to take a seat beside her to rest, she assured me I was welcome and conversed pleasantly with me. Also visited one of the nun's cells, — the lodging place of their head music teacher, l^o luxury in that narrow room — only bare comfort and actual necessaries. Upon informing them it was my first visit to a convent, they said I was shown more of its interior than was their usual custom. Behind a slightly elevated lattice- work, printed overhead, "Ifovitiates," in the Latin tongue, I heard the recital or confessional of one or more persons. Near there, against the wall was a num- ber of names of the departed, at which place I saw one of the Sisters approach the list, and looked as if she deposited a small something in a receptacle NOTRE DAME CONVENT. 31 immediately underneath it, saying aloud, "What a blessed privilege it is to do this for the departed friends." That was a novelty to me I never could understand — either a prayer or any contribution for the benefit of the deceased. Whether I do or not, they were devout in their faith and practice, using courtesy and kindness to us ; consequently in imitation of good old Paul ; with charity and good will, I was moved to "look not every man upon his own things, but also upon the things of others." We asked the favor of some harp, piano, organ or guitar music from the head music teacher. "We do not play for visitors," was her polite reply ; but seconded the request for one of our party to do so. The performauee wag accordingly rendered on one ol their excellent pianos. She complimented the executive ability. On those grounds is a Hospital for the sick of of the Academy. Patients sometimes go there from other places, receiy,e tender and careful nurs- ing. Prices per month, about $30. Quite attract- ive surrounding for the delicate and suffering. ISTear there io the Loretto Chapel, said to be the finest across the ocean. Upon entering it the Sis- ters devoutly knelt in secret devotions ; we stand- ing quietly by. Much interested and pleasantly entertained, and with many thanks for all, we bade adieu to. the Sisters, who most cordially invited a repetition of the visit. 32 MY SrORTHEEN TRAVELS. JfOTEE DAME UJS'IVERSITT, CHURCH ETC, We drove one mile to visit the University. Had about 400 pupils when in session ; there were 38 priests and many monks connected here ; have a magnificent church at that place. Its inside paint- ed walls were surpassingly beautiful and exquisite- ly wrought with numerous ornamentations, Bible scenes and figures added. A large crown with diamonds and precious stones, was suspended before the altar ; under the altar, was a waxen figure of a little girl (whom they said represented a peasant, who had immor- talized herself by some great deed) in a recumbent posture, so lifelike, one almost fancied she was asleep and breathing. On the outer, right side of the altar, stood con- spicuously the full-size form of the Virgin Mary, arrayed in white, bestudded with golden stars ; up- on her head a crown of gold. On the left side of the altar was a similar size figure ot Jesus. As I gazed upon that waxen, life-like form and face, and noted its sad, sweet expression, its pierced hands and feet with the very appearance of drops of blood oozing from them, I was carried in thought to that night of agony in the Garden of Gethsemane, and the tears involun- tarily welled up to my eyes. Only an inanimate figure was before me, but the priest's geaves. 33 thought of the Crucified One in heaven, who laid down His spotless life to save a lost and ruined world, touched me thus. We ascended the stairs to the belfry; were shown an immense bell, weighing 12,000 lbs., the second largest in the U. S., was informed it could be heard fifteen miles. Christ's and virgin mart's sepulchres. On these grounds, visited what was called a fac simile of the original sepulchre of Christ. In a gloomy, vault-like place was something like rock, cut in the shape and dimensions to receive the body ; near it a_ bonafide crown of thorns ; a cross, spear, nails, hammer, pincers and scourge. The Virgin Mary's Sepulchre had a similar en- closure and I'eceptacle. A look through the red glass of that vault, gave all the outer surroundings an awful and indescribably doleful appearance. Saw many priest's ^rfttves on those grounds, with wooden crosses at .their heads, bearing ages and dates of their death. A remarkable fact that about all of them died in their thirties. Kind and obliging Brother Peter (one of the elderly monks) entertainingly "explained every point of interest. Since then, I regretted to- hear that he too, is numbered with the dead. So child- like and earnest in his every word and manner, he favorably impressed us in our sociabil- , ity, my friend, Maria Studebaker offered him some 3 34 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. nice, tempting slices of cake from the lunch she had brought from home that forenoon. In a gen- tle, kind tone, he said : "I do not eat that ; my fare is plain." We met a long line of monks going to their .evening devotions in the chapel near by. N^one lifted their eyes to look at us when passing. Be- fore entering, some prostrated themselves just out- side the door, a few minutes, wearing the aspect of agony. After a most enjoyable day through- out, we returned to South Bend,, busy with our thoughts, and relating what we heard and saw. CHURCH ATTENDANCE. Upon different days, I attended services, by our denomination out in the country. At one place, by Brethren Dr. D. B. Sturgis, and at the Wenger church, by John Wrightsman. Was much pleased to hear our fraternity now have a nice house of worship in or quite near that city. Best wishes to them in all christian-like un- dertakings. Hope to hear of their churches in oth- er cities, especially as our members are residents of quite a number. Out in the country, at the Portage Prairie Church I heard a good sermon by Bro. James Miller, Text : "Watch and pray." — A most impor- tant injunction if we would increase and preserve spiritual union and communion with Christ the true Vine. SOUTH BEND AND VICINITY. 35 Yisited several of the good people around there. Bless their hearts ! when taking leave of me, some remembered not to "let the left hand know what the right hand doeth," and quietly slipped some money into my leave-taking hand, to help me along. Thank God ! he moved them to administer to my need ; for He alone heard it whispered into his ear. At different times, in this way, the members also remembered me in that state. A special providence was most signally over me all the time. I fully enjoyed myself ; but observed to "watch and pray" and under no circumstances forgot God and his benefits to me. THE COUNTET, CLIMATE AND SOIL. Indiana gradually grows undulated after leaving Illinois. Its climate is so variable, there is little need for summer clothing. A portion of the day is as hot as Va. and often in a few hours a light wrap is needed. In consequence of its sudden changes of temperature. Catarrh of the head is a frequent disease. The lake breeze is en- joyed there at that distance. The land is quite productive ; the soil somewhat sandy and lighter than Illinois. I saw many pret- ty farms. Spent the day at one private farm house, which I was informed contained 50 rooms, with much handsome furniture. In one of the numerous residences I visited in that city ; in their 36 MY NOETHBEN TEAVELS. double parlor there was elegant furniture, exquisite paintings and statuary enough to cost several thousand dollars. Those people are indeed very prosperous, and they use it lavishly. With but few exceptions, wealth, health and good cheer seemed to reign as far as I saw and visited. All were so kind to me ; each day had something new and enjoyable planned for me. I am specially indebted to Sister Rebecca and Maria Studebaker for the most of it. How can I forget it ? JS^ever ! Blessings upon one and all who so kindly and thoughtfully contributed to my pleasure and benefit. A thousand thanks ! CHAPTER yil. ASHLAISTD, ASHLAND CO., OHIO. Aug. 2nd, bade adieu to beloved friends and delightful South Bend, at 9 P. M., taking a sleeper in a Pullman's Car. Stopped ofl at Toledo, Ohio, a few hours, to connect with my next train. Pop- ulation 50,143. Distance travelled there 150 miles. ISText connection was at Mansfield, Ohio. Popu- lation 15,000; distant from Toledo 80 miles. Three hours stop off there. From Mansfield to my destination, Ashland, Ohio, 17 miles. I was met and soon whirled away to the most hospitable ASHLAND, OHIO. 37 family of Bro. Dr. J. E, Eoop. "Welcome, thrice welcome !" greeted me, and soon I felt at home where I came by a previous invitation. Arrived there 4 P. M. Population of that town 3,300. THE ISr VALID. Daily received and made visits. I was specially requested to call upon Miss Hattie Ingmand, of Ashland, the intelligent daughter of Judge J , of Ohio. For seven years she had been, and was then a confirmed invalid, as helpless as an infant. After our introduction, I said, Mrs. Klingel, of South Bend, urged me to visit you, and sent mes- sages. At the mention of that quondam friend, her patient face was wreathed in smiles ; and with an outstretched hand said, "Tell me all about her." Those were Methodists. We then conversed as freely as long-tried friends. She could only be heard in a whisper. When leav- ing, she drew me near and kissed me, saying, "Come as often as you can." Visited her several times ; fully enjoyed it. One evening, upon entering her room, she ex- pressed great joy at my arrival ; said : "Did an angel send you here? Pve been looking for you all day." "A fellow feeling makes us wondrous kind." She and I knew what it was to be afflicted. Our sympathy was mutual. Often memory re- visits the enjoyable conversations had with that interesting and patient sufferer. Was much 38 MT NOETHEEN TEAVELS. pleased to hear recently that she finally recovered and went to the "Sunny South.." EXOBLLENT PEOPLE. Words would fail me to tell about the many ex- cellent people I visited and loved in the country and at Ashland. Their hospitality and good deeds loom up in my mind. Besides many pleasures afforded, as in other states, some of our members quietly slipped money into my parting hand. God bless them for all kindness ; for I believe He moved them to those acts. Ever a special provi- dence over me in answer to my unceasing prayers of faith. Mrs. McDowell, a Presbyterian, of that town, has my kindest remembrance for the social gather- ings to which she several times invited and wel- comed me at her house. EELIGIOUS SEEVICES. I heard sermons at regular intervals ; also at- tended several of their weekly, earnest prayer- meetings and Sabbath Schools. 15th, at Dickey Church, in the country, heard a sermon in German. An unknown tongue to my ear, I could only "possess my soul in patience," until the dismissal ; consequently a blank ; and had to confess it when asked, "How did you like the sermon ?" Didn't understand a word was my reply. A BOAT EIDE, 39 LAKE SAVANNAH. 21st, a party of five ladies and gentlemen, (rep- resenting the Methodist, Presbyterian and German Baptist Brethren) took me to Lake Savannah, several miles out in the country. Two hours were most enjoyable spent on it. As our pleasure row-boats glided over the "fair bosom of that silver lake," I occupied my time, plucking the beautiful, white Pond-Lilies, with pink- ish crowned heads, nestling amid their broad, deep green foliage. There were also yellow Lilies rest- ing upon its pellucid water. I likewise gathered the long, pretty lake-moss, growing just beneath its surface. The end of one of our boats, I decor- ated with these beauties of Nature, rendered doubly beautiful to me because I had only read of them prior to my northern tour. That mid- summer afternoon, with its cloudless sky, and a breeze sufficient to produce a gentle ripple on the water, is one of the bright spots of my memory. Truly '"God has given us all things richly to enjoy." That is if we use without abus- ing. — Remember to bless, obey, honor and worship the Author of all good. This is the lawful way to "richly enjoy all things." MAPI^E GROVE VICINITY. 22nd, attended services at Maple Grove Church. Made several pleasant visits in the vicinity. Sister Maggie Lehman kindly conveyed me to that 40 MY NOETHERK" TRAVELS. quarter ; have often thought of her, also other kind friends around there. soldier's RE-UJSriON. 25th, attended a Soldier's Re- union at Ashland, of the survivors of the first regiment commanded by Jas. A. Garfield, including him and his retinue. "When the latter distinguished party landed, (brought by a special train) a cannon within 30 yds. of me, fired salutes. The first so deafened one ear, I dreaded the repetition. Also had eight brass bands to render the music while parading. 12,000 persons assembled to see the proceedings, and hear speeches by their then nominated Presi- dent. He was quite plain and unassuming in ap- pearance. All collected, their old army flag was unfurled along side of a new one. As its tattered remains floated in the breeze, acclamations of cheer filled . the air. Saddened by the memory of the terrible wounds of two of my brothers, (John lost a leg) and the instant death of Augustus (shot through the heart) all at the battle of Winchester, Va., Sept. 19, 1864, I thought possibly they might have suffered near that old flag ; and soliloquizingly said : This may be joy to some, but it is sorrow to me ! An elderly gentleman (seated near me on an elevated platform with a party of my friends) looked at me, courteously saying, "Where are you from?" Ascertaining from Va., he said, "I fought SOLDIBES' BE- UNION". 41 against the South, but they have my sympathy." — An honest, gentlemanly and satisfactory speech. The war brought oad results, but surely our soldiers entered it, sincerely believing it was their bounden duty and honor to defend and preserve their own against the attack or control of others. Evidently, good and bad motives prompted the war; but as it is all over, let us "bury the toma- hawk," and humbly look to that omniscient One, who can, and will "cause all things to work together for good." That Re- union and vast assemblage soon parad- ed through the town, while the welkin resounded with grand music. Later, speeches begun, l^ot earing to be in the dense crowd, Sister Maggie Lehman and I sat in our vehicle in the street, within full view and hearing. While Gren. Gar- field spoke, during some of his gesticulations, a plank of the new platform upon which he stood at the court- house, broke ; continuing to speak, an- other crash ; speaking still, a louder crash, and down he carne partially upon his knee. Quickly regaining his equilibrium, he playfully said, "I^obody hurt," and finally finished. Although I am not superstitious, I often re- marked, and was impressed with the belief that his repeated interruptions and falling were ominous of evil. A few months after his inauguration, we know he received a fatal shot from the hand of 42 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. Gitteau, which soon ended his earthly career. — A shameful affair! A SERMOK — "Abraham's faith." 29th, at Ashland College Chapel, by Bro. S. Z Sharp, an excellent sermon on Abraham's faith. That subject is ever ^rand. A long and varied experience has richly bought me the glorious truth of its promise, conditions and fruit. My travels, pleasures and benefits were hinged and constantly operated upon that very Abrahamic faith in God, who will ever abundantly reward all who diligently, faithfully and unswervingly obey His daily will and way. 'No variableness nor shadow of turning from any of His promise to the faithful. To serve Him "in spirit and in truth," we are sometimes misrepresented and misunderstood. But "when God is for us, who can be against us ?" — An arrayed "ten thousand" cannot prevail. Sept. 5th, heard one sermon in the country and one in the town. ASHLAND COLLEGE. 9th, spent the day at Ashland College ; attended the organization of the classes. Was well pleased with all of its workings. — Busy and kind students ; (ladies and gentlemen) live and attentive corps of teachers. To Miss Annie Baker, (now Mrs. H. F. Hixson) who was then a pupil, I i-eturn the ASHLAND COLLEGE. 43 kindest remembrance for the courteous attention rendered me at the College. Dined at the spacious Boarding Hall on the College Campus. All the scenes and pleasures of that day sweetly revived the reminiscences of my collegiate-institute attendance. Happy and most satisfactory were all my school days. Ashland College is a large and imposing edifice ; beautifully and healthfully situated. From its roof, I "viewed the landscape o'er." Kind thanks to Bro. B. Hoover for so patiently assisting me up for that view over the town and surround- ing country. That College deserves large patron- age. Apply at once for terms, &;c., addressing Ashland College, Ashland Co., Ohio. CLIMATE, SOIL, ETC., AJSTD SUGAR MAPLE TREES. The climate of Ohio seemed to be like Ya. at the season of my visit. Spent six we^ks of summer, including the beginning of Autumn there. Face of the country grows more hilly than Indi- ana. Soil fertile, tolerably light and productive. Saw beautiful and well cultivated farms. To the credit of all, I saw no bad roads in any state trav- elled through. A pleasure and benefit to health to ride over such well kept ones. Saw many sugar maple trees there, as well as in other states. Passed through one grove where the camp was built, to sojourn and boil the sweet 44: MY NORTHEEKT TRAVELS. when ill season. During Spring I think these labors begin ; heard the process had to be continued day and night until finished. Of short duration, this is comparatively an easy way to make money, as I was informed ; in some sections, the owners realize from $1,200 to several thousand dollars, annually, from that non- cultivated product of the earth. Very sorry I happened to be near none of those sugar maple camps during the season. Hearing this syrup was a rarity and a treat, the kind people feasted me on it in its several forms — candy, sugar and syrup. The most deli- cate tasted and best syrup I ever ate. They made' it to perfection. MISCELLANEOUS. 12th, heard a splendid sermon at Dickey Church, by a visiting elder, Bro Enoch Eby, Text : Philip. 3 : 8. 14th, attended a prayer-meeting in town to bid a sad adieu to some of my numerous Ashland friends. Their fervent prayers, committing me to Grod were most touching-; gratefully heard and of- ten remembered. For their manitold kindness, heartfelt thanks and abiding gratitude are engrav- en upon my memory, and follow them wherever they have removed. There are a number of dear friends of whom I would like to make special men- tion to avoid length, I only named those connected with my subject. 3* THE GREAT FALLS. 45 CHAPTEE YIII. NIAGARA PALLS. 15th, at 5 : 30 a. m., chaperoned by kind Bro. H. K. Myers and his estimable daughter, sister Mary, of Ashland, (now Mrs. A. L. Garber,) we accompanied an excursion party of 100, all en route for the noted JSTiagara Falls. Reached the town of ]^iagara at 6 : 30 p. m Population 3,700. It boasts of several hotels ; large stores ; six churches«of the leading denomin- ations ; one of the largest paper mills in the state,. and everything that a much larger place often lacks. Distant from Ashland, Ohio 250, miles. LAKES ERIE AND CHAUTAUQUA. Our travels were via the N. Y. P. & O. E. K, much of it affording extensive and near views of Lakes Erie and Chautauqua. The latter is much smaller, and a delightful summer resort for many, especially various ecclesiastical meetings, teachers, &c. Owing to its purity of atmosphere, it is said, no flies nor insects annoy any one there. Quite a desirable consideration. Lake Chautauqua is ad- jacent to the city of Jamestown, ]^. Y. Popula- tion of the city, 50,000. NIAGARA, NEW YORK. Spent the night at the Spencer House, on the American side. JS'ext morning, accompanied by a *3 46 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. party of six, we todk a hired landau and drove about 11 miles up and down the river on the Cana- dian side. To see the grandeur and many points of interest connected with !N^iagara Falls, that ex- tended drive was necessary. SUSPENSION BRIDG E. One-eighth of a mile below the American cata- ract, we drove over the New Suspension Bridge, opened to the public, Jan. 4, 1869. It is the longest suspension bridge in the world ; its road- way is 1,300 ft. long ; its cables 1,800 ft. long ; the towers 100 ft. high, and it spans the mighty chasm, 190 ft. above the water. As a work of engineering art and mechanical skill, it is said to be the envy of all other nations. THE MUSEUM, CANADA. Near the landing on the Canadian side, is the Museum. That collection of natural and artificial curiosities is worth seeing. Being unable to take the fatiguing and unpleasant walk to view the Table Rock, and to pass under the noted Horse- shoe Falls, I remained with one of our party at the Museum. Here water-proof suits are kept for hire, to pro- tect visitors from a bath of constant falling spray, during their walk near and under the Falls. Our company presented quite a grotesque appearance arrayed in those novel dresses. — By no means SCENES AT NIAGARA. 47 graceful or becoming — enough to excite any one's visibility. Upon returning, their description of their hazardous and very unpleasant walk under the Palls, and a look at their dcipping garments, quite consoled me that T could not accompany th&m. GOAT ISLAND. Our drive along Goat Island, gave a grand view of the combined, broad stream of five large .lakes, (suppose about a mile wide there) whose meeting and commingled waters swept forward in fierce and turbulent rapids, as if madly eager to make the first awful leap into the tumultuous abyss be- low. We visited numerous places along that drive ; but to avoid prolixity, only the most im- portant will be dwelt upon. BURNING SPRING. About one mile above Table Rock, near the riv- er's edge, is the burning Spring. Its water is highly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas ; tolerably pleasant tasted. It emits a pale, blue light when ignited. To heighten the efieet, the phenomenon of the burning water is exhibited in a darkened room. By placing a long iron tube into the water, the gas soon rose up to the top. A lighted match quickly produced quite a flame. A handkerchief was passed through the base of the light uninjured. At its apex, it would have been consumed. 48 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. THE WHIRLPOOL. Is a wonderful spot, less than two miles below the Falls. An elevator worked by a water-wheel 320 ft. below the top of the bank, enables the visi- tor to reach the water's edge. — A frightful descent, over-looking a narrow, very deep channel, walled in by towering banks, between which rush, the mighty waters of Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, St. Clair and Erie I As I stood near, gaz- ing on the greenish looking passage, of water, a feeling of awe pervaded me. In all of its mighty power and depth, about that, the Ruler of the uni- verse has set the bound signifying, "Hitherto shalt thou come but no further." WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS. Little further down is the awful Rapids, whose depth is estimated at not less than 250 ft. That day a man was discovered in its turbulent water ; and was pulled ashore, dead ; and identified by a relative who was in quest of him. Several days, prior, he disappeared, and it was thought he com- mitted suicide by consigning himself to a watery grave, near his home some miles above. PROSPECT PARK. On the American side is more attraction than any one place I visited about Niagara. A solid wall of masonry guards that spot ; from the angle can be obtained a magnificent view of the Ameri- can Falls, Horse- shoe Falls, Table Rock, the Clif- SriAGEA PALLS. 49 ton House,\ containing the Museum, the Ferry and new Suspension Bridge. On the grounds is an Art Gallery of rare inter- est. Adioinmg it, is quite an assortment of beau- tiful specimens — (souvenirs of Niagara Falls, said to be manufactured there) some of which from the many designs, most visitors purchase to take home. ESTOLESTBD PLANE. Leading down from inside the Park, is an In- clined Plane, a distance of 360 ft. ; up and down upon which a car is worked by water-power. Either on this railway, or by a flight of 290 steps parallel with it, visitors go and return from the water's edge. At the bottom, stepping from the car we entered a commodious building, from whence was obtained from the base of the descend- ing torrent, one of the most magnificent views of the American Falls. Except at short intervals, the spray falls thick and fast like a shower-bath. It; had just lifted ; every thing looked calm and bright. Bro. H, K. Myers said, "Let us walk to that little elevation yonder, and obtain a nearer view of the falling sheet of water." Fearing a prank, I demurred. He insisted. Well protected, cap-a-pie, against a possible bath, I slowly followed. Reaching a few yards from the building, a sudden breeze poured a heavy spray over us. Much amused at my 4 50 MT NOETHERN TRAVELS. shower-bath, he was then satisfied to return to the house. Like the knight who accidentally lost his wig in a crowd, I laughed as well as any of my observers. From the crest of the Falls to the original bed, is supposed to be 420 ft. In the Park, at the an- gle, the top of the rushing sheet of water was quite near one. It is said to have rather a fascinating eflect upon observers at that point, and sometimes suddenly seizes one the inclination to jump over with the cataract. I was informed some had act- ually leaped over under that "strange fascination. An appalling but grand view ! That day, I was informed there were 500 excursionists to JN^iagara ; one party was from Va. A lady requesting to share some of my sun-umbrella, informed me she was one of that Va. party composed of 100. Connected with Niagara Falls, among the many places of note and beauty, not herein commented upon, are also the Cascades, Bridal Veil, Luna Island, Railroad Suspension Bridge, Cedar Is- land, Cave of the winds, etc. Lake Chautauqua, the highest navigable body of water on the continent, is 1305 ft. above the ocean, 723 ft. above Lake Erie, and 7 miles distant. The famous Chautau- qua Assembly has its head quarters at Chautauqua Lake and convenes in July and August of every year. The State of New York has since purchased the LEATIN& THE FALLS. 51 land adjoining Niagara Falls, on the American side and dedicated it as a public Park. The Canadian authorities were recently arranging to purchase the land on their side of the Falls and likewise appropriate it. Any curtailment of expense will be desirable to visitors, as almost every thing amongst the many sights, that could be so arrayed in that vicinity, usually cost about 50 cts. to have an entrance for a good view. All expenses included, made it quite a good sum to visit Niagara Falls. At noon Sol poured down his heating rays with as much force as we have farther South. In Can- ada, I noticed the grass was brown. Asking the cause, the residents informed me "the heat of the recent summer's sun did it." Of course their warm weather is of much shorter duration than ours. Our sight- seeing ended, I enquired of my chap- eron, Bro. H. K. Myers and daughter, the amount of my share of expense for settlement. Only a nominal sum was allotted me. A surprisingly cheap pleasure- trip was my reply. So much for being in good company. Thus all along my route, Jehovah-Jireh caused His instruments to provide for me when necessary. His hand I daily acknowledged, praising Him for his goodness and mercy. ''Praise God from whom all blessings flow." 52 MY KOKTHEEN TBAVBLS. CHAPTER IX. EN EOUTE TO BERLIN", SOMERSET CO., PA. A most delightful trip to Niagara being ended, our party of 100 excursionists left at 8 P. M., Sept, 16th. Parted company with my good friends at Jamestown, IST, Y., 80 miles from I^iagara. Stop- ped half hour there to uiake a connection. I reached Pittsburg, Pa. at 1 : 40 P. M. Population of the Smoky City, 156,381. 300 miles from there to Niagara. Too late to make my expected connection, had to spend remainder of that day and night at the St. Charles Hotel. An unexpected detention in this city, I applied to the agent to send me a relia- ble person to assist me along with my smaller bag- gage to the train. In my case, truly, sometimes, 1 suited the action to the word, that "necessity is the mother of invention." — A policeman soon came forward, and very politely took care of valise, &c,, and conducted me and mine to a most desirable seat on the train. A necessary attention ; and how fortunate to receive it so kindly and politely. At 10 : 40 A. M., took the B. & O. R. R., Reached Garrett, Pa., a distance of 107 miles, at 2 : 35 P. M. Was met by Bro. J. H. Knepper. At 4 : 40 P. M., we took the branch R. R. for Ber- lin, a distance of 9 miles. A HOSPITABLE FAMILY. 53 BEELIN, PA. Eeached there the 18th, about 5 : 30 P. M., where I came by previous invitation to visit the most hospitable family of Bro. H. R. Holsinger. Population of that town was then 800, where he was editing the Progressive Christian, one of our church weeklies. The kindest attention from all that family, (fath- er, mother and two daughters) soon made me feel quite at home. The head of that house was one of the first to meet me at Lanark, Illinois, May 31st, of that year, 1880 ; and helped to bear me away from the train when so suffering and pros- trated. There he was one of my "burden- bearers" to that Conference Tabernacle. — "A friend in need, Is a friend indeed." METEESDALE. From Meyersdale, 10 miles distant, and in the same country, I was visited and conveyed to the hospitable family of Bro. Dr. U. M. Beachly. Indeed they fully understood the law of kind- ness, and the art of dispensing hospitality. That town contained 1,500 inhabitants. The surrounding country of huge hills and dales make it quite picturesque — beautiful ! must be de- lightful in summer. But I confess that even as early as Sept. 29th, to be out driving in an open vehicle on the top of one of those lofty hills ; and a brisk wind occasionally tossing a few flying snow 54 MY NORTHERSr TEAVBLS. flakes at Sister M. A. Beachly and me, were too much lor my delicate health. But this was rather unexpected when we begun our journey — a freak of that section, situated, on or near the Alleghany Mountains. Arrived at our destination, her very kind family had such good cheer and comfort within, my chilli- ness was soon forgotten. Comfortably arranged, I was daily taken out visiting the kind people in and around Meyersdale. Oct. 3rd, heard a sermon in town by Bro, Q. G. Lint. That church floor was diflPerently construct- ed to any I had ever visited. — A gradual inclined plane, having the congregation just high enough above each row of heads for all to have an unob- structed view of the pulpit and speaker at the lower end of the church. A good idea I suppose. SALISBUET, OK ELK LIOK. Oct. 4th, Sister M. A. Beachly and I visited Sal- isbury, of same county, several miles distant- That town numbered 800 inhabitants. Grand and beautiful scenery. One bright afternoon I beheld the prettiest sunsetl had ever seen, — In all his flood of gold, I saw the king of day seemingly to pause within the cbft of a near range of moun- tains, casting his sheen o'er hill and vale, enabling the beholder to fancy it was but a reflection of that "land of light and glory" where "there shall be no night ;" no parting there. — Rev 22 : 5. death's doings. 55 At that pleasant town, my sojourn was with the kind family of Bro, S. C. Keim, now deceased. His wife was motherly in her attentions to me. Truly my sympathy went out to her when her darling daughter Libbie died, in the bloom of youth, and soon after the removal of the father. Having met her on my visit to Huntingdon, Pa., when she was a pupil there, I regretted deeply to notice the published announcement that she was declining in health. , And I was on the eve of sending her a pure, fresh Magnolia blossom, hoping to add brightness to her chambei: of sickness. Ere I could arrange it, death had summoned her, I trust, to that "land of light and glory." At Salisbury, I also received and made many enjoyable visits in and around it. My best wishes and grateful thanks to one and all. Pleasant mem- ories linger about many a person and visit made there and out in the adjoining country. The good- ness of Almighty God was manifested there as in many past instances. — continued loving kindness and care from His high and holy hand. A SEKMOK — "PORCE AND CRUELTY." 10th, heard an excellent sermon by Bro. !!«[. Merrill, Text : Ezek. 34 : 31. Among other re- marks, he advised kindness and gentleness to the flock ; condemned '■'■force and cruelty" rule in the control of members of the church. Well spoken. Were that kind of management usually observ- 56 MY NOETHEElSr TRAVELS. ed and adhered to, there would surely be more union and communion together as a body ; fewer divisions ; less discord and strife in churches, or families. With "aZ^ longsuffering and doctrine," the Chief of Apostles charged Timothy to observe and not to count a "disorderly" member "as an enemy, but admonish him as a brother,''^ i. e. when the "disorderly" is not immoral. — 2 Thess. 3. In some instances, I very much fear the opposite course is more for selfish ends than with that con- straining love of Christ and "charity which hopeth all things * * Charity never faileth." — 1 Cor. 13. In lieu of saying, "Avaunt ! you will contaminate us," like good old Paul, such "lord's" will, in a godly way, become "all things to all men, that they may win the more." To act by manner and deed as if "I am ■ more holy than thou," will indeed alienate and scatter God's flock ; and not unfrequently many or some are in every respect as good or even better than the scatterers. Beware of this, remembering the withering denunciation of Ezek. 34 : 21 and 27 verses ; also Isaiah 51 : 21-23. BACK TO METEESDALE. Was taken back to Meyersdale by Bro. S. C. Keim to the kind family of Bro. M. Hady. Re- sumed my visits around in that vicinity. Made some very pleasant ones. For several days I was feeling so ailing could scarcely visit. When on A KIND PHYSICIAN. 57 my last one, near that town, Oct. 13th, Sister E, Beachy took me to her house, so suffering and suddenly ill that Dr. U. M. Beachly was immedi- ately summoned to my bedside. I was startled at his announcement that my disease was "diphtheretic sore throat, threatened with Typhoid Fever." When I inform my readers that five months prior to that, my hostess (a widowed lady) had been bereft of several of her children by the dread- ed diphtheria, (whose ages ranged from a few years to 21,) it is not surprising any attack of that na- ture should startle the writer. Its terrible visits are rather frequent in that region. Thoroughly prostrated and intensely suffering, that attentive and faithful physician visited me twice a day for three days. His skill prevailed and I was relieved. Kind thanks to each one at that house for all the attentions received during my illness : also for that surprise of a bonnet the thoughtful members presented me there. To skillful and kind Dr. U. M. B., I returned a thousand thanks, wishing him a most extensive practice far and near ; and upon him and his united and devoted household, I invoke heaven's choicest blessing. Afterwards I wrote and asked that estimable brother in Christ the amount of his bill for medi- cine and visits to me. His generous response was, "]5^othing ; you just write for the paper." 58 MY NOETHEEN TEAVBLS. Meaning our weekly, religious publication. — A magnanimous deed, most highly appreciated by the recipient. Again Jehovah-Jireh's special providence was over me in answer to my fervent prayers of faith. Any desiring medical services, address Dr. U. M. Beachly, Meyeredale, Somerset Co., Pa. He frequently treats or prescribes for patients by cor- respondence with him. BACK TO BEELIN. Soon as I could be removed after my illness, I was conveyed to the train, and landed back at Berlin in that second home and same kind family of Bro. H. R. Holsinger. Words are inadequate to express my gratitude and exalted opinion of the many services and kitidnesses dispensed to me diir- ing the speedy relapse of prostration I had upon my arrival at their house. SABBATH SCHOOL CONVENTION. 19th and 20th, I attended a S. S. Convention near Berlin. Feeble as I was, that excellent fam- ily arranged everything comfortably for me during the exercises of each day, notwithstanding it snow- ed the last one. Quire good attendance at that Convention ; sev- eral states were represented. Among them were some of the kind friends I had visited during my summer travels. Of course I was pleased to again see their friendly faces. A PEEE RIDE. 59 ANOTHER SPECIAL PROVIDENCE. Made many acquaintances there. Soon after an introduction to a good old brother in Christ, he said, "Isn't it expensive travelling?" Christian- like, he quietly slipped some money into my hand and said : "I have a relative — a conductor on a certain train ; and I have told him to remember you whenever you travel on his route." That considerate advice had already been heeded as follows : Like the rest of the passengers, my fare collected ; (as is done on some roads) I handed the conductor a bill to be changed for mine. Soon the remainder was returned me as I supposed, and he hurried out of sight. Counting it over I found the entire amount in a different form. Eager to inform him of his supposed mistake I watched for his re- appearance.. Saw no glimpse of him until he assisted me off at the station. Quickly I said, You made a mistake in returning me all my money. "J^o, I did not, I so intended it ; that's all right." Thanks was my grateful rejoinder ; and he soon disappeared. Twice he repeated this kindness and request of that thoughtful relative. Again there was the special providence over me — the reward of unceasing faith in God's promises. Blessings upon that conductor and relative ! Both were Christians. 60 MY NOETHEEN TEAVELS. BXEMPLAEY KINDNESS. Having had such a severe attack, previously mentioned, my feebleness, and consequent sensi- tiveness to the rigor of the climate at that season forced me to become a constant care upon the hands of the noble family of Bro. H. R, Holsinger for three successive weeks. Just then it happened they were laboring under onerous disadvantages. Yet they would not allow me to lack for any thing. Fully cognizant of their situation, and feeling utterly dependent in my feebleness, I was secretly grieved. One day, the good wife, entered my room. Seeing my sad countenance, she inquired the cause. — I am so far from home ; such dreadful weather ; and so much trouble upon your hands, is distressing to me ! She, too, was then quite ailing. With her friendly face lighting up with sunny smiles, she said, "If we don't mind it, why should you ?" I insisted I was obliged to be burdensome under the circumstances. She replied : ''I wish your com- pany and would be pleased to have you remain with us until the Spring." . That was early in JS'ovember. Although I could not nor would not longer bur- den them when able to leave, her sincere, Chris- tian-like speech .of welcome caused my very heart and soul to swell with sacred love and profound 4* THE HOLSINGEB KAMILT. 61 gratitude. — "A good word doeth good like medi- cine." It comforted and nerved me much. Upon the house of Bro. H. R. Holsinger, I can- not invoke too many blessings. My daily prayers have never ceased to ascend for them and theirs. I ever rejoice with them in their joys, and mourn with them in their sorrows. Both of their daughters, Sisters Annie and Lot- tie were so kind and considerate of every pleasure and comfort. Since my visit, the former (Mrs. P. G. No wag) lost her darling, blue eyed, fair haired Henry. When I remembered that lovable and innocent faced boy, just learning to run about, the tears of sympathy involuntarily filled my eyes. I thought of the aching void his removal would cause in the hearts of his devoted parents, doting grand-parents and auntie. But Grod knows best. I shall never forget with what sisterly surprises Sister Lottie Holsinger would go a long distance to gather pretty moss, or find the few flowers, to be obtained to add cheer to my room. Thinking the chalybeate water would benefit me, that dear girl several times walked nearly a mile to bring it fresh from the spring. Insisted upon doing it her- self. We often read of such kindnesses and sacri- fices, but they are amongst the few, who, under many disadvantages, ''weary not in well-doing." That is indeed "good works" — bona fide Christi- anity ! *4 62 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. Added to their many kindnesses, those dear people kindly informed me my accustomed clothing was too thin for that rigorous climate. Suiting the action to the word, warmer was presented me, adding some money besides. Many things considered, I recommend their ex- emplary course far and near. They published the "Progressive Christian," and it was providentially proven to me they 'practiced as well as preached it. That religion does not end with ceremonies and form ; it exemplifies "the weightier matters of the law, judgment, mercy, faith." — St Matt. 23 : 23, 28. Blessings, choice blessings upon that entire fam- ily ! I^ever can I forget their noble sacrifices and unassuming Christian kindness ! Indeed, in my trying times of afl9.iction in the house of those noble people ; (and at a time so trying to them,) I was most forcibly reminded of God's special providence over me ; and they un- wittingly became instruments to administer and afford fresh proof of His hand and might. His renewed goodness and mercy were verified through and by them. They practiced Gal. 6 : 10. The promise of reward of all such, is, according to St. Matt. 10 : 42. Truly, all along my route ; in different states, great kindness met and received nie ; but I must confess that many of the Somerset Co., Pa., people, equalled, and well-nigh eclipsed, in Christian KIND TREATMENT. 63 deeds, any that I met. I was naturally led to con- clude that surely the Grood Spirit must be in their midst. A significant fact ! However, excellent and exemplary people were in large numbers wherever I travelled, generally speaking, my visits amongst them in city, town, village and country, strengthened my Christian and social ties for the Brotherhood. I could say with the inspired Psalmist : "The lines are fallen unto me in pleasant places." The most marvelous and loveliest part of the fact is, I planned none of my visiting points. Others did it all for me, regardless of party or place. Away with partyism ! Mine was a health-seeking tour ; and a special providence led me "in green pastures, and beside still waters," — Psalm 23. Most truly I had, and continue to have constant and abundant cause to say with "the spirit and understanding," "Bless the Lord, O my soul, and forget not all his bene- fits."— Psalm 103. Regretted deeply my continued feebleness and sensitiveness to the constant rigor of that season, (and that too so soon after my illness at Meyers- dale) prevented me from making more anticipated visits in and near Berlin. A providential interfer- ence kept me house- bound, and even room-bound most of the time. Some of the neighbors very kindly remembered 64 MT NORTHERN TRAVELS. me by visits ; also a tangible proof of Christian sympathy. I well remember one motherly old lady who visited my bedside, and afterwards sent me a "proof of her love. Was grieved to hear of her death. In various ways, she gave tacit evidence that her heart was the "temple of Christ." — Dear departed Sister Musser ! Mrs. Brubaker, a Disciple member in that town, was very kind and sociable ; also her accomplished daughter Miss Amie. I havn't forgotten that "last rose of summer," one of them thoughtfully brought me ; and those tempting grapes are still on mem- ory's shell. No kind word or deed is ever lost in my retentive memory. Thanks, cordial thanks for every minutia of kindness from Berlin resi- dents. SOMERSET. I sincerely regretted my inability to accept in- vitations to visit the town of Somerset and vicin- ity. Indeed I was sorry not to see more of those people whose praise I had heard. Truly I was pleased with those visited elsewhere in that county; they lavished kindness upon the writer. God richly bless each one in spirituals as well as tem- orals. S. S. CONVENTIOK. 65 CHAPTER X. LEAVING BERLIN. With a sad heart, I bade adieu to Berlin, Pa., 'Nov. 17th, at 1 : 30 P. M. , tinder the care of Bro. H. R Holsinger, a delegate to the Sabbath School Convention, to be held at Huntingdon, Pa., where I had been invited. We were just being driven off to the depot when kind Bro, E. J. Myers (then of that town) good- naturedly tossed a coin into the vehicle to us, say- ing, "That is to help you along." Poor fellow ! now he "sleeps his last sleep." When I read the announcement of his illness at a Philadelphia Hospital, I remembered the bread he "cast upon the waters," and I was arranging to mail him my mite, when lo ! the death' and eulogy of Hon. E. J. Myers met my eye. Peace to his ashes. TO HYNDMASr, OK BRIDGEPORT, PA. Alter leaving Berlin, we travelled 30 miles to Hyndman. Spent the night at the hotel in that village, to make our next connection, with the Central P&. & Huntingdon Broad-top E. P., at 8 : 45 A. M. That hotel was the cheapest I ever visited : a variety of most inviting, well prepared food for only 25 cts. Elsewhere I usually paid 5 66 MT NORTHERN TRAVELS. 50 cts. for breakfast, or supper and 75 ets. for din- ner. At one hotel in Chicago, had to pay 25 cts. for a cup of coffee brought to my room, and was of such quality I could not drink more than a few sips of it. That was by no means a fair specimen of other hotels of that city. Before retiring at Hyndman, I enjoined it upon the landlord to rap at my door one hour before breakfast. The rap came ; my toilet at once begun. In a short time another hurried rap, and I left for the breakfast room as soon as possible.' Quickly casting my eye up to the clock on the mantel, I exclaimed : It is now nearly train time ! why didn't you notify me in full time as I told you ? "We wished you to have a good rest, and waited longer." Casting my wishful eyes over the table at the smoking buckwheat cakes, the tempting venison steak, snowy loaf-bread, &c., &;c ; in the quickest time I tried to drink at least a cup of their extra good coffee before my long travel. One swallow almost scalded my mouth, and I left with all the speed ray poor, feeble, nervous body could com- mand. One handed me lunch to take along ; another attempted to adjust my various wraps. I buckled one Arctic, and clumsy, inexperienced fingers failed in fastening the other. In the hurry and confusion, down rolled some of ray breakfast lunch .across the floor. Irrepressible laughter ! A LUDICROUS SPECTACLE. 67 Half fixed, I hurried down street, through the falling enow. Meeting my chaperon, Bro. Hol- singer, looking amused, he said : "What is the matter ?" I truly presented a ludicrous spectacle : — one of my shoe-buckles was loose and clanking after me on the side- walk ; one portion of my cloak cape was projecting over the top of my bonnet — in unavoidable disorder. Soon as I could recover myself, I gaspingly said, "Behind time, and no breakfast !'' He was sor- ry it had so happened, as he understood arrange- ments had been made at the hotel to have me in readiness upon his return for me from the depot. After my scuffling arrival there, in a few minutes the iron horse came thundering along, and soon we were speeding away. My plan is ever to push my business, and never allow that to push me. In all my various travels, that was the only place I was behind time, and this because I depended upon others. I believe that apparently good-meaning family meant it all for kindness and indulgence. BROAD-TOP R. R. That Broad-top R. E. on which we were travel- ing, was considered one of the most dangerous, especially the trestle-work portion. Along its route is some fine scenery ; the noted Horse-shoe Bend is pretty to behold at a little distance. Am an ardent admirer of the beauties of l^atin-e ; 68 MT NOETHEEN TEAVELS. and whilst admiring the gifts, above, around and beneath us, I remember and thank the Giver ot every thing we have and enjoy. With that sincere realization and acknowledg- ment, most truly is understood this promise : "For ye shall go out with joy, and be led forth with peace : the mountains and the hills shall break forth before you into singing, and all the trees of the field shall clap their hands." — Isaiah 55. Often I am admiring the beauties of JSTature ; and realize far more sincere pleasure in it than I once did in worldly amusements, when I fancied I was fully quaffing the cup of happiness. The heartfelt knowledge and love of a crucified Savior, the experimental knowledge and results, eclipse all the so-called pleasures the world ever had or can produce. The latter is superficial and flickering ; the former is radical — vital — bearing light, counsel, support, abiding peace and joy in the spiritual communion with Jesus Christ. It is the "hidden manna." CHAPTEE XI. HUNTINGDOISr, HUISTTINGDOIST CO., PA. Travelled 76 miles ; on the 18th, at 12 : 30 P. M., we reached the home of Bro. James Quinter of that town who had previously invited me. Then he was one of the editors of the Primitive HUNTIN&TOlSr NORMAL. 69 Christian, one of our church weeklies. A goodly number of their pleasant friends had assembled there for the Convention. Next morning it was suggested I could have my quarters in the Huntingdon Il^Tormal School building if I preferred it. Very gladly accepted the kind proposition as the Convention was to be held there, and it would be far more convenient and comfortable for one so delicate to attend all the exercises. Was most pleasantly situated there. My appreciative thanks are largely due thoughtful Bro. D. Emmert and Sister Libbie J. Leslie, now Mrs. H. P. Moyer. Their daily attentions were indefatigable. No kind word or good deed was lost upon me. ORPHAN HOMES. That Bro. D. Emmert, is now Superintendent of two Orphan Homes, one at Huntingdon, Pa., and the other at Hagerstown, Md. These a.re most worthy institutions ; and their founder is no less so. With his established uprightness and native goodness, truly he is the right man in the right place. He has been the foremost in all of its struggles for establishment. "Well done" should be his deserved plaudit. Modest and unassuming, all of his sacrifices and efforts are the outcome of his benevolent nature, and the noble desire to ele- vate and care for poor and friendleso orphans. Any contributions would be very acceptable to 70 MY NORTHERN TRAVELS. aid in their welfare and support. Do good by casting in your free-will offerings. From time to time, as suitable places in private families are found, those orphan children are sent out. Any information desired, address the Super- intendent, Mr. David Emmert, either at Hunting- don, Pa., or Hagerstown, Md. Best assured you will be dealing with a Christian gentleman. THE CONVENTIOK. I enjoyed the Convention at Huntingdon, which lasted two days. The queries presented and dis- cussed were quite interesting. Those assemblages and proceedings strengthen and increase Sabbath School work, affording fresh impetus to it. Quite an extensive attendance at the Convention ; several states were represented, mainly by strangers to me. During the exercises, I had the pleasure of hearing some noble remarks by Bro. H. R. Hol- singer, of Berlin, Pa. While sojourning in his family, I was unavoidably pi'evented from hearing any ot his sermons ; but was well pleased with his extempore remarks at Huntingdon. So strikingly characterized by unselfishness, his public speech was imbued with that spirit. HUNTINGDON NORMAL SCHOOL. My six days and nights' sojourn at the JSTormal were very enjoyable; made so many pleasant visit- ing acquaintances. Also enjoyed the society of the kind and very agreeable pupils — young ladies HUNTINGTON NOEMAL. 71 and men — a mixed school. Some were there from Va. ; one was a former acquaintance whom I was pleased to meet again — Mr. David Bauman, of Angusta Co. I attended several of their recitations. Teachers very earnest and energetic ; the students as orderly and busy as bees. Everything considered, if they did not get the value of their money, it was their fault. Their Principal gave evidence of filling well his responsible position — seemed to be a good dis- ciplinarian. Any desiring to patronize that school, address Prof. L H. Brumbaugh, Huntingdon, Pa. Thanks are due Sister Susan Eessler (then con- nected with the boarding department) for providing certain edibles for me, not on the regular bill of fare. She remembered the afflicted and considered her welfare. 28th, heard a very good sermon in the Normal Chapel by Bro, James Quinter of that town ; had excellent vocal music — very creditable to their instructor, Prof. "VVm. Beery. VISITS. I visited several very pleasant families at Hunt- ingdon. Every little act of kindness is treasured in memory's storehouse. Even those lake-fish, said to be purchased for my benefit are not for- gotten. And the care with which that beef was steamed to tempt my appetite ; the resignation of that inviting bed-chamber for my comfort ; all 72 MY NOETHEEN TEAVELS. were unsought, kindly remembered and appreciat- ed by the writer. By invitation, I took a Thanksgiving dinner at the home of Bro. J. B. Brumbaugh. It was a feast, and a pleasant day thi-oughout. Added to numerous edibles, that fine turkey and beautiful cranberry sauce are fresh in my memory still. Sister Carrie Miller, (then residing in that family) has since become Mrs. W. J. Swigart. My kind wishes to the twain, even if it is at this late day ; also to the trio. Special mention is due a certain sister I visited in that town. Hers was one of the friendliest faces and most unassuming manner. She arranged her own more comfortable wraps around me when I was going out to worship; was so thoughtful of my comfort," actually ironed my bed over with a hot iron. That some one was concerned about my poor appetite and asked to purchase something ad- ditional, a delicate person might fancy. She was full of good impulses. Her last kind act was to accompany me that cold morning to see me safely landed on the train. As it moved ofi^, I noticed her pensive face ; and her only child, a son, standing beside her. Chris- tian woman ; sympathetic nature ; God bless her and all good people I met there. That lady was Sister Susan Brumbaugh. HUNTINGTON, PA. 73 SCENERY. Population of that town was 4,000. From its surroundings, it is supposable the scenery is beau- tiful, when !N"ature is arrayed in its verdant robes, be decked with flowers of varied hues, especially the sweet trailing arbutus. Along that "Blue Juniata" River, (mentioned in animated song) I saw from the train, the banks had quantities of mountain laurel — an evergreen, which must present a pleasing appearance when crowned with its showy blossoms. CHAPTER XII. LEVVISTOWN, MIEPLIN CO., PA. Left Huntingdon, Dec. 4th, at 9 : 50 A. M., via the Central Pa. R. R., one of the cheapest and easiest riding roads in the IsTorth. Traveled 42| miles to Lewistown, reaching there at 11 : 30 A. M. Population was 4,000. Was met by Sister Lizzie Howe and most kindly welcomed at the home of her Bro. Jacob of that town. His warm- hearted little wife quite won me at once. MAITLAND. That afternoon Sister Lizzie and I traveled sev- eral miles, on a branch R. R., to her father's in the village of Mailland, where she had previously in- vited me. All that family were so kind — like mother, father and sisters to me. 74 MT NOETHERN TRAVELS. At Bro. Wm. Howe's I met his eon Joseph and wite Lizzie from Illinois, on a visit to him. Both were in rather delicate health. Often my best wishes and sympathy have visited them on the wings of thought. Hope they ^e now in full en- joyment of health and happir^ess. My Christian love to them wherever they may be. Visited a number of, very kind people in that vicinity. Love and 6ordial thanks to each one for every act, around which and whom pleasant mem- ory dwells. A PRAYER. 12th, heard an earnest sermon by Bro. W. Howe, at the Dry Yalley Church. Text : 1 Chron. 22 : 19. Upon one occasion, before I left that vicinity, I well remember the fervent prayer that worthy man made ; also his petitions for my safety and general welfare. Gratitude stamped it upon my heart and mind ; and made me feel it would have its weight with Grod, when answering the united prayers of others in my behalf. BACK TO LBWISTOWN. As upon other occasions, my parting hour with sad adieus came to those kind people. 13th, was conveyed back to Lewistown, near where I first landed. This time became the guest of Bro. An- drew Spanogle. With such brotherly kindness and hospitality, how could I fail to feel at home, and enjoy myself? All of that household were teachee's institute. 75 .as kind and thoughtful of my pleasure and com- fort. Made and received several very pleasant visits about there. teachers' institute. Attended the Teachers' Institute, held three days in the court-house at Lewistown. The floor of that building was constructed upon the inclined plane order. 'No obstructed views. Its ventila- tion, most scientifically planned, was apparently easily operated by an occasional pull of a cord hanging against the wall, adjacent to the pleading bar. A purifying plan, worthy of adoption. Heard able speeches and lectures by the promi- nent; some of JS". Y. city and .Philadelphia. Amongst many things mentioned, they thought the Directors should visit the school-teachers ; the rooms should be well ventilated, made attractive ; and children should have low seats. Added to these speeches, there were other interesting exer- cises, music, etc., at regular intervals. . > A QUEER GENIUS. At that gathering, it seems there was a strang- er who came in for a speech, added to one of his works of art. In the latter, he was an adept. His name and place of abode were obtained, but for reasons which will partially develop, I shall with- hold from the public. Having a moral, I conclud- ed to give the substance of the speech at least, to ray readers. 76 MY ]SrORTIf ERK TRAVELS. After amazing the spectators with his really marvelous accomplishment, his speech begun ; spoke plausibly upon temperance, and against the use of tobacco. It all sounded prettily ; I was heartily endorsing every word which pleased me with the speaker. The subject turned ; and with tears coursing his sallow cheeks, my attention was specially rivited when he begun appealing for clothes, books and any other aid from those people for the poor children of two Southern States. One was Va. In his pathetic appeal for immediate aid, he unluckily described a certain locality of my ac- quaintance, entirely opposite to the known state of affairs there. As soon as that speech was ended, I at once re- quested the lady at my side to ask the favor of Prof. — to come to me, as I was from Va. Hearing that, he framed excuses against coming forward. I sent again. With a downcast look he approached me ; we were introduced by the friend who convey- ed him both of my messages. I politely imformed him I happened to know about that place in Va. he had so pathetically portrayed, and what he spoke concerning the matter, was all news to me. With a look of discomfort, he said: "I'm in a hurry to speak with a person," and soon hurried away from us. Later, I accidentally saw an advertisement about him, from those who knew him intimately. — "Be 5* A KINDERGARTEK SCHOOL. 77 sure your sins will find you out !" Comment is • unnecessary. Moral : People should do the right to speak the truth at all times, especially before a large assemblage represented by different States. A MILLIONAIRE. At that Teachers' Institute I also saw Mr. Rogers, of Blair Co., Pa. I was credibly informed his worth was $40,000,000. His wealth did not seem to make him feel superior to the less wealthy. It never should. If there is really any superiority over another, it should be the intrinsic and not in pecuniary worth. A haughty and miserly spirit renders riches a curse instead of a blessing as they should be. But if to do good is the end and aim. of the possessor, blessings temjDoral and spiritual will be upon them. 1 Tim. 6 : 17-19. KINDERGARTEN SCHOOL. Adjoining the Lewistown Academy is a Kinder- garten School. I spent several hours very pleas- antly there during one of its forenoon exercises. 30 children in attendance ; taken from 5 to 10 years old ; prices ranging from 40, 50 to 60 cents per week ; have a 40 week's session. They are instructed altogether by objects, eVen to count. That system of teaching seemed to be more laborious upon the teacher than the taught. Their singing is by gestures, wherever the words imply motion, such as the turning mill-wheel, or *5 78 MT NOKTHBBK TRAVELS. birds flying. It was so interesting, and they sang "well and with earnestness. They also had boxes of nice blocks which they arranged into designs their minds dictated. Some evinced quite an inventive turn ; they also made pretty ornaments of fancy paper. Every thing they had or used, was kept in perfect order — "a place for every thing, and every thing in its place." That system seemed to have become natural by practice. "Order is heaven's first law," and upon that hinges the universe. Then "train up a child in the way he should go, and when he is old he will not depart from it." The children are allowed frequent, short recrea- tions through the day, remembering that, "All work and no play, makes Jack a dull boy." They were controlled by affection. Their teacher, a married lady, (one of the pleasantest little women) seemed to fully understand how to manage each disposition. She noticed one little girl looking cross. Quietly she approached her and affection- ately whispered something in her ear. The effect was magical ; the child soon looked cheerful and began her duties. Their compositions were read aloud by each writer. Upon finishing one, a little boy, at the farther side, commented aloud thus : "That is the way he always writes !" In the gentlest tone, the teacher said : "You ought not to sav that ; he did OORREOTING- PUPILS. 79 his best." Every thing passed off nicely ; and her gentle reproof had a desirable effect. Some teachers make a mistake by using rough words and hard threats, which often discourage and alienate these thoughtless "young ideas." Many a noble nature has been completely warped by mismanagement and misunderstanding. Oc- casionally "the rod" is a necessity, especially when used upon the willfully perverse. The circumstan- ces should be claarly understood before deciding upon the "soft word" or "the rod." When posi- tively needed, "if you spare the rod, you spoil the child", said Solomon. That Kindergarten School was indeed desirable for training and teaching children. The teacher was a 'New York lady ; sorry, I forgot her name. The address is Kindergarten School, Lewistown, Mifflin Co., Pa. mann's axe factory. Sister Sarah Spanogle and son drove me about 6 miles out in the country to visit her daughter, Mrs. "Wm. Yeager, and to look through the noted Mann's Axe Factory near there. It is comprised of four separate buildings for making, grinding, polishing, painting and packing axes. 200 hands were em- ployed in their manufacture. 1,400 axes made per day, they retailed at $1.00 a piece at the fac- tory ; and sell for $1.25 when sold in Ya. That establishment is situated in Mifflin Co., Pa., on Kishacoquillas Creek, surrounded, basin- 80 MY NOETHEKK TRAVELS. like, by the towering heights of Jack's Mountain^ presenting quite a romantic and novel appearance. In winter, the sun sinks behind that contiguous circle of a mountain, at 2 : 20 p. m., and rises at 8 : 30 A. M. I was there Dec. 18th, and when old Sol withdrew his shining face at such an early hour, a sombrous shade pervaded the rooms and surroundings. With an area just large enough for the factory and yard ; a lew nice dwellings and their yards and gardens, and the wagon and rail- road entrances, the place is so shut in that when a storm is approaching, it cannot be seen until it bursts overhead in all its fury. In summer, it must be of very pleasant temper- ature ; the encircling mountain tower must present a most pleasing aspect, arrayed in its verdant robes, dotted tastefully over with beautiful flowers, the feathered songsters holding their concerts of carols and warbles in tree tops, by the flowing brook. My day was very pleasantly spent there, and with that kind family visited. In that vicinity as in others, my need was con- sidered and administered to in a Christian, way and spirit. I almost invariably received where I might least expect it. And I wish my readers to under- stand that I in no instance, acted the part of a mendicant, nor had I a claim for any aid. My making mention is to show the operations of Chris- tian sympathy and holy love ; and that by a special providence, in answer to my secret prayers for aid, CUMBERLAND, PA. 81 because my promised and expected "monthly"^ funds yi^ eve providentially lost after I had landed 1,200 miles from my hqme in Va. ! Now I trust you fully understand my motive for writing where and how I was aided in my travels. I was "at sea," in my plans for a health tour, and the good Lord "stirred the spirits" of the pure minded, and made them offer me "willingly" their mites. God bless each one for their Idving kindness to me. His trusting child. CHAPTER Xni. MEOHAKIOSBURG, CUMBERLAND CO., PA.. Dec. 24th, beloved Sister Sarah Spanogle, (a second mother) and others accompanied me to the train, via the Central Pa. R. E., which left, (laden with an excursion party to Philadelphia) at 10 : 30, A.M. I love that motherly. Christian woman. Her parting injunction to one of her worthy family (under whose care I was then traveling) was to "take good care of her." It was most kindly obey- ed, and I was landed in the depot at Harrisburg, Pa,, at 1 P. M., to make my next connection. Trav- eled 61 miles. Population of that city, 30,762. After an unexpected delay of four hours, I took the Cumberland Yalley E. E., and there crossed 82 MY NORTHERlSr TRAVELS. the bridge spanning the frozen STisquehanna, said to be about one mile wide at that potnt. Wagons' were daily driven across its adamantine depths, and skating parties seemed to enjoy the exercise- on its glassy surface. A distance of 9 miles brought me to Mechanics- burg. Population of that town, 3,300. My invi- tation there was as follows : A. letter came from a stranger, — dear Sister Hattie Mohler; saying if I would visit that section my "expenses would' be paid back and forth." Of course T accepted with pleasure. A social gathering was awaiting my arrival. Such cordial, Christian welcomes from beaming faces at once malde me feel at hottie amongst the kindest people, whom I knew from the praise I had of them before meeting face to fkce. On the wings of thought and love I often visit them. The next day, (Christmas), I heard a sermon and remarks by Brethren Wm. Howe, (a visiting elder and friend from Maitland, Pa.,) and Eld. Moses Miller, of Mechanicsbuirg. The latter since deceased. Text : St. Luke 2 : 8^14. Accompanied by a goodly number from church, we took our Christmas dinner at the most hospita- ble mansion of Bro. David I^eiswanger, an exten- sive merchant. A feast indeed' of choice viandsj and a genial coihpany around, apparently madte all feel this truth of that forenoon's text : "Glory to God in the highest, and on ear^h peace, good will eHRlSTMAS SCENES. 83' toward men," l^o "foolish talking or gesting"' there, so forbidden to Christians — Eph. 5:4; but all seemed happy in sweet converse. In one of their parlors, there were numerous, handsome Christmas gifts to that family, from ab- sent and near friends — such an array as we some- times see upon bridal presentations. The ancient custom of gift- making seems to strengthen domestic and social ties. It brings "good cheer" ; and that to a heightened degree when the poor widow and orphans are remembered. Eeceived many visits there, and made several en- joyable ones. CHRISTMAS-TEEE A5fD BETflLEHEM SCENE. At the house of Mrs. Brindle, a Roman Catholic lady of that town, I had the pleasure of seeing her prettily adorned, private Christmas-tree they have had for years. Underneath and around it was a representation of Bethlehem ; — the hill, was formed of earth, rocks and moss, with toy sheep and shep- herds standing around ; also the stabte (on a toy scale) representing the one in which Jesus was born ; the donkey standing at its door and various other things prettily arranged, giving all a very natural appearance. That scene and tree occupied the larger portion of one side of a long room worth seeing. At other places, saw several pri- vate trees for their children. 84 ' MT NOETHEKlSr TRAVELS. OHUROHTOWN, OR ALLBIST. 29th, Kind Sister Hettie Mohler, and obliging Bro. Levi Howe conveyed me several miles to the village of Churchtown, in same county. Met a number of kind people ; and made enjoyable visits there. Jan. 2nd, attended services at Baker's Church ; heard a very good sermon by Bro. Wm. Howe. Text:Heb. 2:1, 3. BACK TO MECHANICSBUKG. • The 3rd, returned to Mechanicsburg and made other visits. I would like to give names of each familj' I visited there and elsewhere ; but to avoid using so much space, I have to mention those I made my head-quarters, or such as are specially connected with my subjects. A REMARKABLE COINCIDENCE. 4th, spent the day in the kind family of Bro. Levi Howe, residing one mile from that town, "Whilst there, I infprmed him my brother John ot the Confederate army, in company with other sol- diers, (I do not remember, but think they came there from the battle of Gettysburg, Pa.,) had vis- ited a place near Mechanicsburg, and gathered some fine ox-heart cherries ; also related the friend- ly conversation that ensued between him and the owner, describing the porch upon which he stood. In reply that old gentleman laughingly said, "I remember it ; yonder stands the very tree (then PROFITABLE FARMING. 85 going to decay) from which they gathered those cherries ; I recollect the figure and manner of your brother you have described." A remarkable coin- cidence. A PRODUCTIVE AND VALUABLE FARM. For the information of our Va. farmers, I re- quested that excellent old man to allow me to note down the following exact particulars and products of his highly cultivated 12-acre farm. Yiz : 2| acres wheat yielded 80 bushels ; 7 tons hay for $25.00 ; vegetables sold for $100 ; butter and eggs $60 ; fowls $15 ; meat $25 ; fruit $30 ; one acre 1-aised 150 bushels Irish potatoes ; and once 110 bushels fronn | an acre. A small area, fertile soil and large products, enables one to acquire much profit from com- paratively little labor. A very desirable consider- ation. One year's income from that farm made the nice sum of $325. That is a fair specimen of many productive farms in certain counties of Pa. The farm lands in some counties are so productive and highly cultivated, they sell for $500 and $800 per acre. The Pa. lands were usually wrapped in snow, sorry I saw so little of their soil. VIRGINIA FAI^MS. Many of our once valuable and productive farms (especially along the James Eiver Yalley where we reside) with their several hundred acres,, often do not yield as much in produce or money as 86 MT NORTHERN TRAVELS. that little farm described near Mechanicsburg. Poor Southern farmers ! they do labor under pe- culiar disadvantages and various hindrances to their prosperity and successful farming. May j-t please Almighty God to speed tlie day when some system of labor can be arranged for justice and order. Too much freedom has made the large majority of freedmen overlook the divine injunction that "it they do not work neither should they eat ;" rend^ ed doubly culpable, too, because many own not a place upon which to lay their heads, not even a' spot of earth to bury themselves. Often for prompt payment, (they are sure to get) they either dodge away or refuse to, work for any one. — They are "free ;" feel it, and love idleness. iN'umbers of the rising generation spend the most of their time sleeping, loafing, eating wild berries and fruits, (when in season) and what not ? This slate of affairs is unreasonable and un- worthy any civilized country. As we ' are power- less to bring order out of disorder, we can but con- tinue to cry mightily unto God to look, see, be- hold ! into what a state of demoralization and indo- lence the freedmen are plunged ! — especially scores of the younger generation. The most industrious and reliable are those born and trained before the war. Since having a clear understanding of the Bible, I have long since been convinced there were evile connected with slavery. But under the ex- SLAVEKy. 87 isting state ,of affairs, I know their emancipation has greatly enhanced their indolence and immoral^ ity. Before the war, the slaves had to attend services in the white people's churches ; since freedom^ they have withdrawn themselves to their own preaching and churches ; and it is a rarity for them to attend worship by white people. Their own choice. A BENEFACTOR. ■^ As proof that slave-holders strove (and tJiat by a great majority) to Christianize and improve the morals of their colored people (admitting . there were some exceptions over this broad land) I in- vite the special attention ot non-slave-holders to this fair and worthy example : Gen. John H. Cocke, who died in 1865, aged 86. He and his heirs owned 1,000 slaves, and 14,000 acres of land in Va. and other states. His old homestead, "Bre- rao," once one of the garden-spots of the far-famed James River Valley ; and situated in Fluvanna Co., "Va., is about 2| miles from the home of the writer, and from which hei" P. O., Bremo Bluffs, takes its name. Said homestead has now for its residents the old General's gentlemanly son, Dr. Cary C. Cocke and his estimable family. Gen. Cocke had two chapels built, (one in Ala- bama and the othei- near his ''Bremo" estate) and paid faithful ministers to preach regularly for his slaves. The neighboring white people (the writer included) often attended this place of worship near 88 ' - MY NORTHEEN TRAVELS. US. Services were orderly and earnest. That Christian work was continued until after the Sur- render when the freedraen absented themselves from hearing the white preachers ; and being "free,"^ chose the kind of worship by their own ignorant color. The withdrawal has evidently detracted from instead of improving their morals. For 25 successive years benevolent Gen. Cocke also educated all the colored children on his large estate from 5 until they were 10 years old. He spared no pains, religiously and educationally, to have seven of his most valuable colored men edu- cated ; then emancipated and paid the expenses for them and their families to^iberia in 1834. 28 in number were thus sent. Although their freedom was freely given, some were loth to leave their home and surroundings. They were sent abroad, hoping to improve their benighted and ignorant race. It was fruitless. These emancipated ones often corresponded with Gen. Cocke and other members of his family ; and actually begged that presents' be sent them away to that distant land of freedom. Indolence and improvidence are sadly characteristic of that race, whether civilized or uncivilized. Gen. Cooke was not only a most conscientious Christian, but possessed a highly cultivated and literary taste. His principles were of the highest tone^the soul of honor. He was a great temper- ance advocate ; had a disgust for the use of to- GElir. COOKE.- 8f> bacco ; would liot allow its cultivation on any of his rich lands. His slaves were so instructed against the use of these evils, that upon one occasion a limb had to be amputated, the surgeon could not induce the sufferer to drink some whiskey preparatory to the ordeal. "Oh ! uo," reasoned the faithful and well- taught slave, "I cannot take whiskey ; master has told me it is wrong." Some coftee was the strong- est drink the surgeon could prevail upon him to swallow. The morals and manners of his slaves were great- ly improved under the direction and advice of this commendable old gentleman. Of course unlimited freedom, and the sure consequences of "evil com- munications" have detracted irora some of their morals in this lapse of time. To this day, upon their old slaves, the traces of their former good training is noticed and remarked upon, especially their industry and politeness. The constant rule to regulate them was system, order, industry, po- liteness, neatness, morality and Christianity as far as was in the power of man to instruct and exem- plify. Gen. Cocke was one of the important pillars of society. The absence of his counsel and influence made a sad void when the Master summoned, him away from earth. His praiseworthy deeds have ^rbwned his memory with evergreens ; and richly deserves perpetuation in various respects. 90 MY NOETHKBSr TRAVELS. In some things, allowances skould be made for the colored race ; for willful wrongs, never I In- deed the writer is for strict justice to them for every right and privilege ; but she cannot endorse or admire their increasing demoralization. Their withdrawal from bearing white preachers has not improved them in that respect. Seeming to prefer the ignorant, many are consequently falling into superstition and its trains of evils. Some are a real credit ; and are so received. — "Honor to whom honor is due." SOME EXCEPTIONS. In the line of education, there are doubtless some worthy exceptions scattered here and there. From what I see and know, the most of their present ed- ucation so puflFs many, that it is quite common for them to put on airs and object to doing some ser- vices usual in the Iforth, and they desire to follow the daily practices of the most cultivated people of the South. A large majority of such deluded creatures seem to think and act as if their freedom was intended for idleness and vanity. Many are dying of scrof- ulous consumption, attributable, (the doctors say) to their poor and irregular fare and improper mode of life — health and habits never considered until wasting disease soon hurries them away, Not so before freedom ; their owners (except in the minority of cases) had them fed upon nourish- ing food J clad in warm garments ; had regular PREEDMEN. 91 kours for them like the JS'orthiM-jn people observe with their labor. Upon many ot our farms, it is a known fact that not unfrequently no three colored people did as much work as one white one in the Iforth. Since their freedom, there is no sort of comparison between the labor they do for us and that which is commonly done in the North. For love nor money they will not do differently. There are a few exceptions here. Scores of people who thus think and speak of the freedmen, unite in saying, "slavery is wrong f and it is equally so to "provide no laws nor regu- lations to systematize labor and Christianize them." That done, we may reasonably hope for better days to them and us. ABUSED SCEIPTUEE. True the freedmen are quite religious after their notion. I refer to any reasonable person, is this Christianity? As soon as many (not all) are re- ceived into their churches, they begin to act as if that refuge licensed and shielded them from dan- ger. When they take things from the white peo- ple ,to which they have neither right nor title ; and are caught, they often insist it is "borrowing" like the Israelites." — Ex, 3 : 22. Those ancient bond- men borrowed once when they left the Egyptian bondage ; not a few of our freedmen make repeated practice of that willfully misunderstood Scripture. Some have been heard telling palpable false- 92 MT NORTHERN TRAVELS. hoods ; when rebuked, said they could "pray that off immediately." — Not wilful sin ! That light seems to be darkness ; and as they are "free," evi- dently love to have it so, Of my acquaintance, there are some worthy old Christians ; they, too, deplore the growing state of demoralization amongst many of their own color. Much of my information was obtained from them, as well as by my own observation. Such is the tendency of some to ''bori-ow," often they do not at all spare their own color, not even their parents ! making no distinction between pov- erty or plenty, white or colored. They have some societies amongst them to aid the sick and needy. They are indeed good when not mis- applied ; also have prayer-meetings fi'e- quently. But I deeply regret the fact that the re- sult of those midnight convenings together do not improve many of them, in their morals. — -"By their fruits ye shall hnoiij them." Odcasionally a faithful colored minister preaches his congregation a sermon on virtue, honesty and truth. Some raise objections to his plainness of speech and refuse to encourage him. — A too often true, and lamentable state of affairs. GOOD ADVICE. Did these ignorant people receive only good ad- vice from some outside advisers, I candidly believe there would be more harmony, industry, system and, *6 THE rREBDMAN's WANT. 93 order. Some unjust, and often prejudiced people, give them that sort of counsel against their best friends, which has a marked tendency to disorder and injury to them and to, those connected with them. Every .one, in such capes, should under- stand well what they say or do lest their claimed good may be an admixture of evil results. Like children, I have long since become aware that if they have a good head who regulates and rules well, they improve and prosper more. As a race, they never have, and I fear they never will give suflScient evidence of possessing that capacity to manage much. Then- numerous signal failures have fully convinced me thiis. A few exceptions to this. With an earnest desire that something may eventually awest their demoralization, indolence and improvidence ; and because . so many of my l^orthern frieijds requested me to give them an account of the colored people before and since free- dom, I honestly and faithfully wrote the fore- going, with malice to none and good will to all God's creatures. To the credit of that race, whether having a little or much, they are usually liberal, and of pleasant address. Many of them seem devoted to "old master" ^nd "old miss 5" and will do favors because "they raised them ;" sometimes bring presents to their former owners. — Worthy ! 6* 94 MT NGBTHERS" TRAVELS. MAKKBD DECLENSION. A year or two after the surrender, April 9th, 1865, I painfully noticed instead of improving* or remaining as moral as they had been usually taught, their growing and marked tendency was to disrepute and indolence. I grew concerned for its arrest ; and could I have had any suitable oppor- tunity during my iTorthern tour, it was my earnest intention to appeal to the authorities to consider seriously upon that improper state of affairs. Although I make this sliatement, it is an acr knowledged fact I am no part of an enemy to the colored race — ever be-friend them whenever neces- sary. I am not one to "despise the cause of my man-servant or my maid- servant." — Job 31 : 13, 15. Only in the name of Christianity I lift my voice against an evil. — Isaiah 58 : 1. My motives are pure. MY VISITS AG-AIN. From the last visit mentioned at the home of worthy Bro. Levi Howe, near Mechanicsburg, he kindly drove me several miles from town, where I spent a most enjoyable week, with a widowed Sis- ter, Eliza Horst. Blessings upon that dear family; how tender and kind in their numerous attentions to me ! Christian people ; rich in good works ! Often in memory I turn to that afternoon when they 60 warmly wrapped me in the sleigh, I laughingly A:i