President White Library, CORNELL University. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 087 999 524 ^y Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924087999524 MEMOIR OF BENJAMIN LORD BLOOMFIELD G.C.B., G.C.H. fr MEMOIR OF BENJAMIN LORD BLOOMFIELD G.C.B., G.C.H, EDITED BY . GEORGIANA LADY BLOOMFIELD, IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, Limited. 1884. CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS. CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS. g^bimtion. TO MY TWO DEAR SISTERS-IN-LAW, WHOSE SYMPATHY AND AFFECTION HAS DOUBLED MY JOYS AND LIGHTENED MY SORROWS, THESE MEMOIRS OF A BELOVED FATHER ARE DEDICATED BY THEIR AFFECTIONATE Shrivenham, September 14, 1884. PREFACE. It has been said, with truth, that ''the world is a loser when a good man dies." In recalling the subjects treated of in these volumes, I am fully aware that they belong to a bygone period, and that most of those who would have taken a personal interest in them have passed away ; nevertheless, I hope and believe that they are of sufficient public and historical interest to justify their publication; and that the intimate intercourse which subsisted for many years between Charles John, King of Sweden^ and General Lord Bloomfield (an account of which is now published for the first time) will help to elucidate Bernadotte^s re- markable character, and add to the tribute of respect due to his memory and that of Lord Bloomfield ; while at the same time it cannot but be interesting to trace in these despatches the commencement of those commercial negotiations between England and Sweden which have since culminated in free trade, and realise the sympathy which the noble efforts made by England for the sup- pression of the slave trade, in the early part of this viii PREFACE. century, awakened in Sweden, although that country had but little personal interest in that great question. Lord Bloomfield^s private diary, of which I have made free use^ gives a lively description of the society in Sweden during the first years of his residence there as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, but this Memoir is chiefly taken from his official corre- spondence, which I have published with Lord Granville's permission. It has been my endeavour to reproduce both the official despatches and private letters and diary with as few changes as possible, as I think that what may be lacking in brilliancy of style is fully compensated for by a strict adherence to truth. I should not give a true portrait of Lord Bloomfield's character, which became eminently religious in his latter years, were I to abstain from publishing a few extracts from his letters to his wife enclosing the precis he w^as in the habit of writing of the sermons he heard, but I have thought it most advisable to print these in the form of an Appendix. GEORGIANA BLOOMFIELD. Shrivenham, Berks, SeJ)te7?iber, 1884. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. PAGE MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD I BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE . . . . l8 CHAPTER I. Arrival at Stockholm — First Audience of Bernadotte to pre- sent Letters of Credence — Arrival of the Princess of Leuchtenberg, and her Marriage to the Crown Prince Oscar — Interesting Conversation with the King — Crime of Libel — Slave Trade — Treaty Negotiations — Committee of Opinion on the Question of dismissing Judges — The King refuses to receive the Spanish Messenger — Free Trade Negotiations . . '35 CHAPTER n. DIARY. Artillery Practice — Journey to Nyk oping and Finspong — Visit to Drottingholm— Commercial Negotiations — Police Regulations — Seditious Letters . . -57 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. PAGE Bourgeois Ball — Society of the Amarantes — Burghers' Ball — Count Steidingk — Russian Tariff — Interesting Con- versation with the King — Death of the Duke of Leuch- tenberg — Slave-trade Negotiations — Lord Bloomfield's First Ball — Commercial Despatches , , , , '^^ CHAPTER IV. Tableaux Vivants — Salle des Nobles — Anecdote of Marie Antoinette — Great Ball to the King and Queen of Sweden — Dinner at Court — The King tells of His having been appointed by Napoleon to command the French Invasion of Ireland — Celebration of May Day at Stockholm — Visit to M. de Wharrendorf . .119 CHAPTER V. Visit to Colonel Montgomery's — Gioksholm — A Bostilla — Norkoping — Carlscrona — Visit to the Governor's — The Canute Society — Copenhagen — Audience of the King Frederic VL— Picture Gallery— King's Stables— The Royal Palace — Fredericsburg — Elsineur — Camp of Scania . . . . . , . . .145 CHAPTER VI. Journey to Gothenburg— Visit to Count de la Gardie— Visit to the King's Stud at Fliizuge— Battle of Lund — Dinner at Ramlose — Audience of the King — Anec- dote of Prince Oscar — Wennersborg — Fredericstein — Christiania — The Storthing . . . . .184 CONTENTS, xi CHAPTER VII. PAGE Visit to Baron Wedel's — Expedition to Nordenborg — Mad. Anna Cobiornsen — Visit to the Military Academy at Christiania— Dissolution of the Storthing — Departure from Christiania — Falls of the Glommen — Uddevalla — Visit to Count Wetterstedt's at Finspong — Return to Stockholm . . . . . . . .212 CHAPTER VIII. Despatch to Mr. Canning — Visits to Studios at Stockholm — Upsala — Iron Mine of Dunamora — Silver Mine of Sala — Arrival at Gothenburg — Visit to the King at Rosenberg — -Funeral Service of Louis XVIIL — Audience to present Mr. Mackenzie — Instance of Bernadotte's Remarkable Memory — The King's Account of the Battle of Austerhtz .... 240 CHAPTER IX. Child's Ball — Swedish Marriage— Dinners at Court — Anec- dote of Bernadotte — Swedish Funeral — Sledge Party — Russian Easter — Tableaux at Countess Wetterstedt's — Diplomatic Dinners and Parties — Orebro — Norkoping — Mine of Fahleen — Gefle — Lofita — Rosendall — Departure to Russia 267 r^ MEMOIR OF BENJAMIN LORD BLOOMFIELD G.C.B., G.C.H. Benjamin Bloomfield, born on the 13th of April, 1768, was the son of John Bloomfield, Lieutenant of Grenadiers, and the beautiful Miss Waller. They were married against the consent of her friends. This short romance was followed by a long romance of real life. Thrown off by all her family, she struggled through years of poverty and privation, and found that even the affection of an amiable husband could not quite console her for the consequences of self-will and disobedience. Many efforts were made to reconcile her to her parents, but they were inflexible, and forbade all intercourse with her brothers and sisters, VOL. I. P' MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, leaving her to feel the truth which they had fore- told, with perhaps too much severity, considering her extreme youth and inexperience. After her marriage she lived at Bloomfield Lodge, Newport, Tipperary ; and once Lieut. Bloomfield, having been absent from home, was surprised on his return to find the little town illuminated. On inquiring the reason, he was informed that it was in honour of his wife having just given birth to a son and heir. Young Benjamin went to the Academy when he was eleven years old, and obtained his nomination there Arough the kind influence of Captain Wilmot, a personal friend of the Duke of Richmond, then commandant at Woolwich, who offered to place his son on the list of candidates for a cadetship ; but as the boy was then an infant. Captain Wilmot told the Duke he could not avail himself of that offer, but that if he might be permitted to transfer it to a very promising boy, in whom he was deeply interested, his obligation would be quite equal to what it would have been had his own son obtained the appointment. The Duke agreed, and young Bloomfield entered the Academy, and got his com- mission in the Royal Artillery when he was only MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, 3 thirteen. George III. went to Woolwich one day to see the cadets, and was struck by Benjamin being such a little boy. His Majesty asked whether the authorities were going to make that little fellow an officer ? Benjamin, making a low bow, said : *' None more ready to serve your Majesty." For many years afterwards he went by the name of '' little boy Bloomfield." His first service was in Newfoundland, where he was famous for his great love of boating ; and afterwards, when he was at Gibraltar, he got up a *' musquito " fleet. He served on one of the gunboats during the war with France. He was one of the first officers appointed to the Royal Horse Artillery when it was formed in 1793. He commanded a battery of Artillery at Vinegar Hill during the Irish Rebellion, and received a handsome sword in acknowledgment of his ser- vices. He was placed on the staff of the army, and favourably noticed by Lord Lake. Whilst quartered at Woodbridge, in Suffolk, he paid his addresses to Harriett, the daughter of Mr. John Douglas, of Grantham, but went away to Ireland without proposing^ to her. On his return some of his brother officers began talking at mess B 2 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. of the handsome Miss Douglas, whom one of them, Lieut. Hawkins, was said to admire ; so Captain Bloomfield took the first opportunity of asking him whether this was really the case. Lieut- Hawkins answered, yes ; he admired her very much, but nothing more. Captain Bloomfield exclaimed he was delighted to hear it, as he had obtained his father's leave to marry, and in- tended proposing to Miss Douglas the very next day. They were accordingly married in 1797, and soon after went to Ireland. The bride drove a phaeton in front of the regiment, and on the march she met a carter who resolutely refused to get out of her way ; so she waited quietly, telling the man he would soon have to move, whether he liked it or not, and presently the advanced guard of artillery came up with their swords drawn. The carter was so alarmed that he speedily upset his cart in a ditch, to Mrs. Bloomfield's great amuse- ment. Lady Bloomfield often described the state of Ireland during the Rebellion, and the happy days she spent with her great friend Mrs. Prittie at Castle Otway, co. Tipperary. They were in the MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, •liabit of writing little plays in the morning, which 'were acted in the evening ; and one day Mrs. Bloomfield greatly astonished her host by asking for the loan of his wig. Captain Bloomfield was ordered from Ireland to Portsmouth, his regiment being appointed on an •expedition to Portugal, instead of which, no sooner had he arrived in England than his troop was ordered to Brighton, to work with the Prince Regent's regiment, the loth Light Dragoons. Captain Bloomfield, who was then a very poor man, was so appalled at the idea of the expense, that he was most anxious to effect an exchange, but could not succeed in his endeavour. The first field-day the Prince Regent was so pleased with the way Captain Bloomfield manoeuvred his troop and its admirable order, that he invited the young officer to dinner. There was music in the evening, and Captain Bloomfield, who was a proficient on the violoncello, struck some chords on that instru- ment which delighted the Prince Regent, and thus began a friendship that lasted uninterruptedly for twenty-seven years. When first Captain and Mrs. JBloomfield went to Brighton they lived in a cottage called Balsdean, but afterwards moved to a house. 6 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, No. 13, Dorset Square. Captain Bloomfield was frequently invited to dine at the Pavilion, and was soon appointed Gentleman Attendant without any salary. Then he became Equerry and Clerk Marshal, and then Private Secretary and Privy Purse. In 18 15 Colonel Bloomfield was made a Grand Cross of the Guelph, on which occasion the Prince Regent took off his own diamond star and gave it to Sir Benjamin, who previously had been sent on a mission to Hanover, to settle some private affairs for the Prince Regent. In 1 81 6 he was sent to Paris, to carry the Order of the Bath to the generals of our army, when he was accompanied by his only son, John Arthur Douglas, then a boy of fourteen ; his brother-in- law, Mr. Douglas, and the Duke of Rutland. John Arthur Douglas was walking one day with his cousin, Lieut. John Bloomfield (afterwards Sir John Bloomfield, G.C.B., Inspector-General of Artillery; he died August ist, 1880), when he was recognised by Plato w, Hetmann of the Cossacks, who, having seen him the previous year in England, immediately recognised him, and ran across the street to embrace him, and gave him a whip and a bourka, the Cossack cloak. MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, *In 1823 Sir Benjamin was appointed Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary at the Court of Bernadotte, King of Sweden, and he was raised to the peerage. In 1828 he was called home to attend the death-beds of his mother and his dearly-loved child Charlotte; the latter died at the Stud House, Hampton Court. These afflictions affected him very deeply, and by God's grace pro- duced a decided change in his religious opinions. On his return to Stockholm he became acquainted with an excellent Wesleyan minister, the Rev. George Scott, and constantly attended the services, which were held in a temporary chapel, there being then no Church of England at Stockholm. The service was suspended for nearly a year, and Lord Bloomfield, fearing it would not be renewed, made strenuous though unsuccessful efforts to secure the appointment of a British chaplain. What could not be obtained from the British Government was sup- plied by the Wesleyan _Missionary Society, and in July, 1830, a chapel was reopened for English ser- vice conducted in a pure Catholic spirit, and this * Extract from an article published in the Wesleyan Maga- zine, 1846. MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. was responded to by the British residents. The regular attendance at that chapel of the British Representative with his suite, the Consul-General, the American Minister, the Consul of the United States, and others of various ranks, proved that they valued the opportunity of ''assembling themselves together " for the purpose of Divine Worship above the distinctions of religious party. The marked attention with which Lord Bloom- field received the newly-arrived missionary, showed a more than ordinary interest in the work com- mitted to him ; and no one attended at the Mission Chapel more regularly, or entered more devoutly into the services, than he did. He was there twice every Sunday. He delighted in God's ordinances ; ^'he hungered and thirsted after righteousness," '' and loved the habitation of God's house." No inclemency of weather prevented his attendance. The missionary remembered being put to shame one very tempestuous night when (the kind family with whom he resided having ineffectually advised him not to venture out, hired a carriage for his con- venience) he found that Lord Bloomfield had walked some distance through the pelting storm, and opened the carriage at the chapel-door. When surprise was MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, expressed at his having ventured to walk such a stormy night, he rephed that he objected to giving his servants any work on the Lord's day. He invariably returned, after evening service, with the missionary to his house, to join in family prayers. Once it happened that service had begun before he arrived, and he remarked afterwards that that service had been comparatively lost to him, as unless he was in his place before the clergyman entered his reading-desk, that he might have time to compose his mind, and lift his heart in silent prayer to God, he did not consider himself in a fit state for profit- ing by the ordinances of worship. He always endeavoured to attend a weekly night service, when very few others were present, and he was a most attentive and humble listener. A remark made by him when he was not as familiar with Holy Writ as he afterwards became, showed how a highly- cultivated mind appreciated the literary superiority of Scripture language ; he said to the missionary : " I observed certain words and sentences you made use of were much more powerful than others. I did not know then what I have since learnt, that those words and sentences were taken from the Bible." The missionary, at Lord Bloomfield's 10 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. special desire, made arrangements to spend a por- tion of every Wednesday forenoon in religious intercourse and prayer. This was continued with but little interruption for three years. The childlike simplicity, the unaffected earnestness and evident desire of Lord Bloomfield to ''grow in grace and in the knowledge and love of God," made the missionary's task easy and delightful. The diffi- culty was not to break down but to build up, not to wound but to heal, and though the all-sufficiency of Christ's atonement was clearly perceived and appreciated. Lord Bloomfield could not forgive him- self for the time he had wasted or misemployed, and deeply regretted that during a life of almost unparal- leled prosperity he had been so long unmindful of that gracious God who had loaded him with temporal benefits, and it was after much earnest prayer that he was enabled not only to believe but to trust implicitly in Christ for personal salvation. One Sunday evening the missionary had prepared a sermon, but for some reason he did not preach it, and was prompted instead to choose his text from the twelfth chapter of Isaiah. That sermon was the means of bringing conviction to Lord Bloom- field's troubled mind, and '' being justified by faith,. MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. ii he had peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ." It was encouraging to mark and help forward the work of grace in a mind so highly cuhivated, a conscience so tender, and a heart so warm and generous. One of the first outward evidences of the inward change was Lord Bloomfield's determination to observe the Lord's day according to Divine direc- tion, and in a manner harmonious with the spirit and design of that gracious institution. It was not easy, in a country where the conti- nental custom of partially interrupted business and the pursuit of pleasure prevailed, for one in Lord Bloomfield's position to alter his former practice with regard to a stricter observance of Sunday amidst unaltered associations. This was rendered the more difficult because at that time it was the custom at the Swedish Court to invite all the Representatives of foreign Powers to dine at the Palace on Sunday afternoon. An invitation to Court is considered obligatory, and no ordinary excuse can be admitted as satisfactorily accounting for absence from the royal table. The Sunday entertainments were also so connected with the 12 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, political relations of the various countries repre- sented, that it might appear an unavoidable official duty to be present. Lord Bloomfield, however, thought otherwise ; and humbly and gratefully acknowledging Divine authority for the insti- tution of the Sabbath, he would not listen to the dictates of human expediency, and he therefore sought an opportunity of conversing with King Bernadotte on the subject, who not only acceded to the request of the British Minister not to invite him on the Lord's day, but, lest his absence from the diplomatic dinner should be misunderstood or misinterpreted, the king took care to explain to those assembled the cause of Lord Bloomfield's non-appearance, which in no way interfered with the esteem and respect enter- tained towards the British Representative. During the winter of 183 1-2, the following illustration of ■sound principle on this question was furnished. The story was told by Count Rosenblad, then Minister of Justice at Stockholm. He and Lord Bloomfield were walking towards home one Sunday morning, both returning from their respective places of worship. On separating. Count Rosen- Wad said to his friend: "We shall meet again MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. 13. this evening," referring to a splendid banquet to be given by the Minister for Foreign Affairs, at which the Royal Family, the members of the diplomatic body, and the principal nobility were to be present. '' I shall never forget," said Count. Rosenblad, ''the manner in which Lord Bloom- field drew himself up, and gently but solemnly said : ' No, Count Rosenblad, if I spend six days of the week in secular duties, it is not too much for me to reserve the seventh for the worship of God and the good of my soul. I shall not be there.' " That evening Lord Bloom- field, as was his regular practice, returned with the missionary from chapel, and after tea united in the family worship with more than usual in- terest and emotion. On rising from prayer he took the missionary aside into another room, and with deep feeling said : '' To-night there is a great entertainment at Count Wetterstedt's ; many may think I ought to be there, but oh, how thankful I am to have declined the invitation, and how much happier I have felt kneeling at your family altar! " It is satisfactory and pleasing to know that Lord Bloomfield's example was followed, and that Count Rosenblad resolved, in consequence of what 14 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. had occurred, not to give any more official dinners on a Sunday ; but, as one means of promoting its better observance, he would invite some of his intimate friends to attend a religious service, con- ducted by a zealous clergyman, in his drawing-room. Much might be done in this way to raise the tone of morality and religious feeling in Europe, and the religion of England thus exemplified might make itself manifest as a power for good, contrast- ing favourably with mere form. In April, 1833, Lord Bloomfield left Sweden, and on his return home manifested the same decision of character which he had shown at Stock- holm. About this time his eldest daughter was married. After the wedding breakfast, when the bride and bridegroom were about to depart, Lord Bloomfield made a few impressive remarks on the importance of the event in his family, the necessity of looking to God for guidance and happiness, and the propriety, notwithstanding the service they had just attended in church, of specially asking God's blessing on the young couple. He expressed a hope that all present would unite in devoutly commending them to God, and he then called on the Hon. and Rev. Gerard Noel and MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, 15 Mr. Scott to join in prayer for God's grace and benediction. The intercourse between Lord Bloomfield and Mr. Scott was renewed in 1837, when it was evident that in the bosom of his family, and re- leased from the responsibilities of official life, Lord Bloomfield was devoting the remainder of his life to God's service. His only son's marriage to Lord Ravensworth's youngest daughter, the Hon. Georgiana Liddell, Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria, gave him the most unfeigned pleasure, and though at that time he was suffering from a painful illness, which ultimately terminated in death, he and Lady Bloomfield made the long journey to Ravensworth Castle, co. Durham, to attend the marriage, which took place at Lamesley Church on the 4th of September, 1845. Two curious coincidences connected with this marriage were remarked, viz., that the bride was born on the anniversary of her father-in-law's birthday, and that, without knowing it, she fixed on the anniversary of his wedding day for her marriage. Also, in looking over family papers, it appeared that a Bloomfield of Tipperary was married to a Miss Liddell, a Maid of Honour 1 6 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD, to Oueen Anne! Lord Bloomfield's visit to his old friends, Lord and Lady Ravensworth, renewed an intimacy which had been begun under very different circumstances at the Court of King George IV. Lord Bloomfield's heart was opened wide to receive and welcome his son's wife, whom he ever treated with the most touching respect and affection. When the young married couple left Woolwich for St. Petersburg, on the 4th of October, 1845, where Mr. Bloomfield returned to resume his post as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary at the Court of Russia, Lord Bloomfield accom- panied them to Sheerness, and wept bitterly when the moment of parting arrived. The following winter the failing state of his health obliged him to resign the commandantship at Woolwich, and he took a house in Portman Square, where he expired peaceably on the 15th of August, 1846. His re- mains were taken to Loughton, King's County, and his only son erected a monument to his memory, with the following inscription : " Sacred to the memory of Benjamin Bloomfield, of Oakhampton and Redwood, County of Tipperary, G.C.B. and G.C.H., a Lieutenant-General in the army. Colonel- MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD. 17 Commandant of the Royal Horse Artillery, 'Governor of Fort Charles, Jamaica, and a Privy Councillor. He held the distinguished and con- fidential offices of Clerk Marshal, Private Secretary and Privy Purse to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, afterwards King George IV. He was nine years Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipo- tentiary to the Court of Sweden, and subsequently Commandant at Woolwich. He was born the 13th of April, 1768, and died beloved and lamented on the 15th of August, 1846. With loyalty and patriotism unbounded, save by his allegiance to the King of kings, he devoted himself through life to the public welfare, not slothful in business, but fervent in spirit serving the Lord. In him was found that wisdom from above which is first pure, then peaceable, gentle, easy to be entreated, full of mercy and good fruits, without partiality and without hypocrisy. And to the praise of God be it recorded that in the midst of prosperity and worldly honours, which he ever acknowledged with heartfelt gratitude, his glorying was in the cross of Christ Jesus his Saviour." "'Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord.' — Rev. xiv. 13." VOL. I. ^ BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE (KING CHARLES JOHN XIV. OF SWEDEN)."^ Among all the vicissitudes of Napoleon Bona- parte's life, the most fatal to his power, the most disastrous in its results, was the influence exercised by Bernadotte, afterwards King Charles John XIV. of Sweden. Ennobled by fortune, if not by transcendent genius, his offended vanity and disappointed am- bition helped more than perhaps any other cause to overthrow the empire of Napoleon, and his career is too closely connected with the greatest events of this century not to arouse interest. How came it to pass then that this man changed * From a Life written by Sarrans Jeune, Paris, 1845. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. lo the destinies of France ? and by what strange fatality did a soldier of fortune decide the fate of that great Empire ? His life seems divided into three distinct phases. The first belongs to the Revolution of 1789, when Bernadotte was celebrated in the armies of the Republic. The second to the epoch in his life when his ambition and jealousy of his great rival led him into active opposition. The third to his reign as a constitutional king, when this crowned soldier had the courage to . oppose the principles of his despotic neighbours, avow his liberal opinions, and raise Sweden to un- precedented prosperity and freedom. Charles John XIV. of Sweden was born at Pau, on the 26th of February, 1763, and baptized by the names of Jean Baptiste Jules, the son of an advocate in the Parliament of Pau, and Mademoiselle St. Jean de Boiel, his wife. Bernadotte's infancy was saddened by delicate health and the indifference of his mother, who showed a decided preference for his elder brother. At seventeen, without the knowledge or consent of his parents, who had destined him for the bar, he enlisted and joined a c 2 20 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE, regiment of Marines as a private. That regiment was soon after sent to Corsica, and it was there that the young soldier began his military career, and served ten years as a private before he obtained the rank of first lieutenant. In 1793 Bernadotte was promoted to a colonelcy, and from that moment he rose rapidly, was made a General of Brigade on the field of Fleurus, under Kleber, and after the capitulation of Maestricht became a General of Division. After a brilliant campaign on the Rhine in Jourdan's army, Berna- dotte was ordered to join Napoleon in Italy, and he crossed the Cenis in the middle of winter with 20,000 men, and met the Commander-in-Chief at Milan. He took an active part in the campaign which led the French army to the gates of Vienna, and secured the important results of the Treaty of Campo Formio, which was ratified on the 17th of November, 1797. Soon after Bernadotte was sent to Vienna as Ambassador of the French Republic to the Court of Francis II., Emperor of Austria. On his return to Paris, he married (i6th of August, 1798) Mademoiselle Desiree Clary, the sister-in-law of Joseph Bonaparte, and was soon BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. 21 after made Minister of War under Sieyes, who, however, after systematically opposing all the acts of his administration, dismissed him sum- marily, and appointed Millet Mureau his successor. After Napoleon's return from Egypt, Bernadotte neither aided nor impeded his assuming the dic- tatorship, but it is certain that when Napoleon Bonaparte crushed the Republic he opened the way to the vastest ambition, and no doubt the sovereignty of Bernadotte was the result of the First Consul proclaiming himself Emperor before the Generals of the Republic. When Bonaparte quitted Paris before the battle of Marengo, Bernadotte was left in command of 40,000 men at the gates of the capital, and the First Consul said to him : ''If I fall, the fate of the Republic will be left in your hands." At that time nothing could be more disastrous than the condition of the Western Provinces. Worn out with fighting, peace had become an absolute necessity to the Royalists ; and the Commander- in-Chief showed moderation in his efforts to pacify La Vendue. When in command of the army in the West, Bernadotte issued a proclamation which gave great offence to Napoleon, who took the 2 2 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. command from him, though he was neither convicted nor otherwise punished. In May, 1804, the Empire rose on the ruins of the Repubhc, and Bernadotte was made one of the first dignitaries of the new Court. He was created a Field-Marshal of France, and appointed to the command of the army of Hanover, where he ruled the conquered provinces with such con- summate wisdom, moderation, and intelligence, that when six years later he was put forward as a candidate for the throne of Sweden, the recollection of the services he had rendered Germany contributed powerfully towards his election ; and when he left Hanover to take part in the memorable campaign of. 1805, he carried away with him the regret and esteem of the Hanoverians. Bernadotte's army marched rapidly to Wurzburg, and his mission was to keep Kutusoff and Kiesemeyer in check, and prevent their relieving Ulm, which was defended by General Mack. After the reduction of Ulm Berna- dotte took possession of Salzburg, occupied Bohemia, and penetrated to Moravia, whilst Napoleon marched on Vienna. He reached Brunn on the ist ot December, 1805, on the eve of the battle of Auster- litz. His corps played an important part in that BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. 23 memorable battle ; he drove back the Russians, and his audacity and courage mainly decided the fate of the battle. (See No. 50 despatch, December 23rd, 1824.) On the 5th of June, 1806, when Napoleon placed on his head the iron crown of Lombardy, he gave Bernadotte the Principality of Pontecorvo, in Southern Italy. In 1806, when the Prussians advanced towards Weimar and Jena, the corps of Bernadotte and Murat marched on Hamburg, where Davoust had already taken up his position, and it was there that the quarrel between him and Bernadotte took place which proved nearly fatal to the arms of France. Davoust would not yield precedence to Bernadotte, who, in consequence, retired to Dornburg and left Davoust to bear the brunt of the attack of the Prussian army at the battle of Auerstadt, which would, in all probability, have decided the fate of the campaign ; but Bernadotte had numerous and powerful enemies in the higher ranks of the army whose aim and object was to ruin him in Napoleon's estimation; so much so that on the nth of April, 1809, Bernadotte addressed a letter to the Emperor tendering his resignation, and asking to be sent on some distant expedition where he would be beyond 24 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE, the reach of those who were bent upon his ruin. On the 14th of October, 1806, Bernadotte attacked Halle at the head of 15,000 men, overcame all obstacles, and after several bloody engagements against superior numbers he took 5000 prisoners, 3O' pieces of cannon, and considerable stores of ammu- nition, etc. On this occasion he showed such re- markable talent, courage, and activity, that even his enemies were silenced, and Napoleon gave him the highest praise, saying that he should have hesitated to attack with less than 50,000 men, but '' Berna- dotte ne doute de rien ! " When the Prince of Pontecorvo arrived under the walls of Lubeck pursuing the Prussians under Blucher, a corps of 1600 Swedes had just embarked at Travemlinde when they were pursued and taken- by General Rouyer, but so well treated by Berna- dotte that it is said the election of a son of the French Republic to the throne of Sweden was due to this apparently insignificant episode of the war of 1806. Bernadotte made great efforts to prevent the sacking of Lubeck, and Blucher was forced to capitu- late, when Bernadotte again received the thanks of Napoleon. After a short rest at Lubeck, Bernadotte marched BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. 25 into Poland to meet the Russians who were advan-^ cing, but owing to an unlucky chance he never received his orders ; the officer who was taking them fell into the hands of the Cossacks, an accident which prevented Bernadotte taking part in the battle of Eylau ; this, too, was imputed to him as a crime. Early in June Bernadotte was severely wounded at the battle of Spandau, and had to relinquish the command of the ist Corps to General Victor, who earned his rank of Field-Marshal in that memorable- campaign, which was concluded by the battle of Friedland and the Treaty of Tilsit, when the Prince of Pontecorvo w^as appointed Governor of the Hanseatic Towns. No doubt the blockade of the Baltic ports '' was the deepest and most mischievous contrivance ever devised for the ruin of England ; " it nevertheless- rendered the tyranny and oppression of the French hateful to the inhabitants of those shores, and on the other side of the North Sea Sweden was governed by a king (Gustavus IV.) who was in close alliance with England, and who, after Russia and Prussia had laid down their arms, defied the conqueror of Friedland. It was under these cir- cumstances that Bernadotte assumed the command 26 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. of all the countries situated between the mouths of the Trave, the Elbe, and the Weser, as far as East Friesland. He wrote to Napoleon from Hamburg on the 26th of August, 1807: '' The occupation of the ports of Holstein would doubtless be seriously prejudicial to England, but would be useless as long as Copenhagen remains under British control ;" therefore it was necessary, unless England accepted the mediation of Russia, that Denmark should be forced to declare war, in which case Bernadotte was to take the whole Danish continent ; but whilst fruitless negotiations were carried on with the Danes, Nelson bombarded Copenhagen and took the whole Danish fleet. At that time Bernadotte's army consisted mainly of Spanish and Dutch troops, but he was reinforced, and prepared to enter Zealand and Scania the end of January, 1808. His orders were to cross the Belt the moment the Russians entered Finland, but when he reached Copenhagen the English fleet had again taken up its position in the Sound. At that time Spain was invaded, and Charles IV. abdicated. There was much disaffection among the Spanish troops in the French army, and as soon as Vice- Admiral Hood appeared a large number BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. 27 embarked and joined the British fleet, whilst a division in Zealand was disarmed by the Danes and given up to Bernadotte, The invasion of Finland by the Russians, the revolution which broke out at Stockholm and caused the deposition of Gustavus IV., and the accession of the Duke of Sudermania under the title of Charles XIII., who immediately asked for an armistice, made a great change in the position of affairs. Bernadotte was soon after called away to another scene of action. He had governed the Hanseatic Towns, as he had governed Hanover, with moderation, justice, and a love of order which lightened as far as pos- sible the crushing weight of the French occupa- tion. Napoleon had ordered him to levy 3000 sailors from the towns of Hamburg, Bremen, and Lubeck, and to send them to Boulogne and Flush- ing. This levy, which completed the ruin of those provinces, excited such dissatisfaction that open resistance was to be expected had not Bernadotte shown so much tact and moderation in the execution of his orders that recruiting was carried on without difficulty. It was not only in public matters that the same tact and moderation were conspicuous, for when the magistrates of Hamburg lodged him in a 28 BIOGRAPHICAL SKEl'CH OF BERNADOTTE. dilapidated house he never complained, till one of the Town Council having called to ask a favour, and declared he should not leave the house till he obtained it, Bernadotte begged him in that case to choose the apartment he wished to inhabit, in order that he might forthwith get it properly furnished, as, though good enough for a soldier, he could never permit a member of the Council to be so badly lodged. On the following day orders were given by the authorities in the town to furnish the house so magnificently that the Prince was obliged to put a stop to the excess of luxury. Napoleon was recalled to Paris from Spain in January, 1809, all the Powers of Europe having again coalesced against him. Bernadotte was ordered to leave Hanover for Dresden to take the command of one of the corps of the great army^ when, on his own responsibility, he not only sus- pended hostilities against Sweden, but ordered the ports of the Baltic to be opened to Swedish vessels. What his policy really was only appeared later ; in the meanwhile he accepted the command of the 9th Corps, composed chiefly of Saxons and Poles, and entered Poland. In the spring he marched to the relief of the Wurtemberg army at Linz, and BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE, 29 joined the left flank of Napoleon's army before the battle of Wagram, after which he issued a procla- mation which gave such offence to Napoleon that he dissolved the 9th Corps, severely reprimanded Bernadotte, refused to see him, and ordered his immediate return to France. The first days of August, 1809, the English landed at Walcheren, and there was a general conspiracy against Napoleon. The opposition had their headquarters in La Vendee. The victory of Wagram had checked the revolt, but the landing of the English troops in Holland renewed it, and under the pretence of saving France, Fouche called out the National Guards, and appointed Bernadotte to the command of the Army of the North. He left Paris on the 12th of August, and arrived at Antwerp on the 15th, where he took active measures of de- fence ; but on the 15th of September Napoleon, who mistrusted Bernadotte, ordered his return to Paris, and appointed Marshal Bessieres to succeed him. Bernadotte was further ordered to retire to his principality of Pontecorvo, when he declared he was ready to relinquish all his titles and retire into private life, but that no one had a right to prescribe his residence, and he positively refused to obey 30 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. Napoleon's injunction. In order to avoid a public scandal the Due de Feltre allowed him to return to Vienna, where, after a very stormy interview with Napoleon, he was offered the governorship of Rome ; but in the meanwhile the Russians marched into Finland, Gustavus IV. of Sweden was de- throned and taken a prisoner to the Castle of Drontingholm, the Duke of Sudermania took the reins of government under the title of Charles XIII., and on the 21st of August, 1810, Bernadotte was elected Prince Royal of Sweden under the title of Charles John, and he arrived at Elsinore on the 1 2th of October, when the Archbishop of Upsala met him and received him into the reformed Lutheran Church. He made his public entry into Stockholm on the 5th of November, in presence of the King of Sweden, the States, and the Corps Diplomatique. Napoleon, who was then greatly irritated against Sweden, insisted upon her declaring war against England, and made the most exorbitant demands upon her, treating her with all the severity of a conquered country. He confiscated the Swedish ships in the German ports, and occupied Pomerania with French troops. The last thing which threw BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. 31 Bernadotte into the arms of Russia was Napoleon's refusing to take Norway from his Danish ally and unite it to Sweden ; and under these circumstances a meeting was arranged between the Emperor Alexander and Bernadotte at Abo. The disastrous retreat of the French from Moscow in the winter of 181 2-13 led to the signa- ture of the Treaty of Stockholm on the 2nd of March, 18 13, by which England acceded to the union of Norway to Sweden, and a Swedish force was sent to Pomerania under General Sandels. On the 1 8th of May, 181 3, Bernadotte landed at Stralsund, where he learnt, to his dismay, that an armistice had been concluded between France, Russia, and Prussia, without the participation of England and Sweden. Bernadotte then wrote a strong letter of remonstrance to the Emperor Alexander, and went to meet His Imperial Majesty and the King of Prussia at Trachenberg, in Silesia, where, at first, these sovereigns received him coldly, till a letter arrived from the Emperor of Austria, Francis II., who declared that he considered the co-operation of Sweden absolutely necessary to the success of a coalition against Napoleon. The plan of the campaign was decided upon, and the 32 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. command of the army in North Germany was confided to Bernadotte. On the 17th of August, 18 13, hostilities recom- menced. The French under Regnier were defeated by Bernadotte at the battle of Gross-Beeren, and Berlin was saved. After the battle of Leipsic, which was fought by the Allies on the i6th, 17th, 1 8th, and 19th of October, the French retreated, and Bernadotte established his headquarters at Kiel. On the 14th of January, 18 14, a treaty was signed there, Norway was united to Sweden, and Denmark declared war against France; Rugen and Pomerania were given to the Danes, and Bernadotte was created Commander-in-chief of the Army of the North, and established his headquarters at Liege. The Allies entered Paris, Napoleon abdicated, and after a short visit to Paris, Bernadotte left France for ever, and returned to Sweden. One of the first acts of the Allies was the signature of the cession of Norway to Sweden. On the 19th of February Prince Christian took the title of Regent of Norway, convoked the national diet which proclaimed him King of Norway, and everything was prepared for a vigorous resistance to Bernadotte. After, however, a six weeks' BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. 33 campaign which was favourable to Sweden, Christian gave in, hostilities ceased, the Storthing was con- voked, and the King of Sweden accepted the Norwegian Constitution. On the 4th of November, 1814, Charles XII L was elected, and Charles John and his heirs were acknowledged as his successors. In 181 3-14, Sweden was indeed in a sad state. Her national credit was gone, her paper money was valueless, her trade was paralysed, her agriculture was at a standstill from lack of hands, her forges, the principal source of her prosperity, were silent, her merchant ships were rotting in harbours, arts and sciences languished, public works were abandoned, buildings were falling into ruins, the national debt exceeded the resources of the State, and the people were ground down with excessive taxation. Five-and-twenty years later, through the in- fluence of one man, and that man a foreigner and a child of the French Revolution, Sweden had reached a degree of internal prosperity and outward consideration and respect which made her the envy of other States ! On the 15th of February, 181 8, Charles XI 1 1, of VOL. I. o 54 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF BERNADOTTE. Sweden expired, and Bernadotte ascended the throne under the title of Charles John XIV. In a famous speech which he made on the 25th of January, 1840, on opening the Session, Charles John used these memorable words: "The preser- vation of peace ought to be the chief aim of all enlightened Governments. The size of a State does not constitute its strength and its independence, but its good laws, its commerce, its manufactures, and above all its Patriotism." On the 8th of March, 1844, Charles XIV. expired at Stockholm, aged 82, and was succeeded by his son Oscar. CHAPTER I. Arrival at Stockholm — First Audience of Bernadotte to present Letters of Credence — Arrival of the Princess of Leuchtenberg, and her Marriage to the Crown Prince Oscar — Interesting Conversation with the King — Crime of Libel — Slave Trade — Treaty Negotiations — Committee of Opinion on the Question of dismissing Judges — The King refuses to receive the Spanish Messenger-^ Free Trade Negotiations. DESPATCH NO. I. TO MR. CANNING. " Stockholm, yi!^«^ 7, 1S23. '' Sir, " I landed at this residence from His Majesty's Frigate SeringapatanZy on the 5th inst., and im- mediately transmitted a note to Count Engestrom, requesting him to obtain His Swedish Majesty's pleasure as to when it might be convenient to H.M. to accord me an audience, for the purpose of receiving the letters of Recall terminating the Functions of Mr. Fitz-Gerald, and those of Credence which place me in relation with the King of Sweden and his Ministry. D 2 36 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S " I had my first conversation at the Cabinet with Count Engestromthis morning, when his Excellency in reply to my declarations on the part of his Majesty, assured me with great politeness of the ardent wishes of his Royal Master to co-operate with his Majesty, King George IV., most cordially in the maintenance of those relations of amity, and good understanding, which have so long subsisted between Sweden and Great Britain. '' The Count mentioned the 9th instant as the probable day for my Reception by His Swedish Majesty, and informed me that the Princess of Leuchtenberg, the affianced bride of Oscar, Prince Royal of Sweden, was daily expected. No further conversation of any Importance passed between us. *' In entering upon Functions entirely new to me, I venture to request your kind Indulgence ; that you will be persuaded how deeply I feel the Importance and delicacy of the trust reposed in me, and that my Efforts at least will tend to justify the flattering choice of His Majesty. '' I have the Honor to be, etc., '' B. Bloomfield." MISSION TO SWEDEN. 37 DESPATCH NO. 2. TO MR. CANNING. " Stockholm, y^;z^ 14, 1823. '' Sir, ''On Tuesday, the loth Instant, His Swedish Majesty accorded me the Honor of a public Audience, when Mr. Fitz-Gerald's Letters of Re- call, and those of Credence Authorising my Residence here, were most graciously received by the King. " I accompanied their delivery with a short address in the usual tone, including, however, an additional allusion to the Prince Royal's Marriage, and dwelling briefly, but with some emphasis, on the last most important topic. The Count Enge- strom, in a tone of Cordial Sincerity, assured Mr. St. George (and, indeed, I have learned from other credible sources) that all the Sentiments which I then expressed in the name of H.M., and especially those which I applied to the subject now engrossing the entire attention of this Capital, were particularly acceptable to the King, to His Ministry, and to the Court Assembled. The Chancelier de la Cour, Count Wetterstedt, as the Organ of His Royal Master, replied in a discourse .at once appropriate, most impressively respectful 38 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S to H.M., and may I presume to add, flattering to myself. That Minister commenced by asserting the invariable amicable sentiments entertained by his Master for the King of England, and endea- voured to place in the strongest light, not only the incessantly anxious attention of the King to meet and co-operate with the kindly efforts of his Britannic Majesty towards consolidating the Interests, and cementing the Harmony of the two Nations, but desired me to express in the warmest terms. His Swedish Majesty's deep sense of the personal Feelings, regard for the Dynasty, and the prosperity of His Kingdoms, which I had just addressed to the Throne on the part of my Sovereign. '' The Count, however, was most pointed in assuring me of the gratitude of His Royal Master for the friendly terms in which I thought it ad- visable to mention the Prince Royal and his ap- proaching Nuptials, concluding with expressions which afford me every hope that my humble efforts towards effecting your wishes will be received with indulgence at the Court. *'The Crown Princess next received me most graciously at a public audience, as also did her MISSION TO SWEDEN. 39 Royal Highness the Princess Albertina. The con- versation at these audiences, unmarked by any thing of a political character, turned principally on the circumstances of this auspicious moment. The whole of the Mission, accompanied by several Gentlemen and officers of the Seringapatam, had the Honor of being presented to the King, the Prince Royal, and the Princess Albertina, and were received by all with circumstances of con- descending kindness. *' I have certainly hitherto been received with politeness and distinction, and if I have been some- what minuter than may have been usual in de- scribing my audience of Reception, it proceeds partly from the peculiar circumstances of the moment, and partly from the wish to omit nothing which may in the least evince the Temper of this Court towards England, on the eve of a negotiation so important as that with which I am entrusted. ''Yesterday, at noon, the Swedish Squadron, having on board the Queen of Sweden and Princess Royal, anchored at about two English miles from Stockholm, and the King having previously gone on board, the Royal Party landed at 7 o'clock in the Park, under Salutes from the whole Squadron 40 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and those acclamations natural on so joyous an occasion. '* They immediately proceeded, attended by their suites and a numerous train of Carriages, thro' the Park to the adjacent Palace of Haja, accompanied by H.M. and the Crown Prince, and escorted by the Hussars of the Guard, along a line of 12,000 Troops, drawn up to receive them. The King welcomed the Queen and Princess Royal at Haja, where the Princess remains for a day or two — but the rest of the Royal Family made their grand Entrance into Stockholm late last night. " I should not omit to observe that, with the very limited opportunity afforded to me yesterday of inspecting the Troops assembled, the opinion I am inclined to form of their temie and discipline is highly favourable to the system of their organisa- tion, restrained as it is by the very contracted Resources of this Country. *' Report says the marriage is to be solemnized the day after to-morrow." MISSION TO SWEDEN. 41 DESPATCH NO. 3. TO MR. CANNING. *' Stockholm, y^/?/^ i8, 1823. '' Sir, '' On the occasion of presenting two English Gentlemen, the King of Sweden honoured me yesterday with a private audience of some length. *' I should in vain attempt to describe in detail an interview marked on the part of the King by a sustained tone of warmth and condescending kindness, equally gratifying to me, whether viewed as a devoted servant of H. B"" M^ or the faith- ful organ of his Government. And I the more regret the difficulty of reporting the Conversa- tion literally, as any other Language than that of the King would ill do justice to the feelings he •expressed, and must comparatively but ill convey the impression made upon my mind of the deep •devotion and friendly gratitude entertained by the King of Sweden towards the King my Master, or His Majesty's sense of those obligations which he conceives himself under to the Ministry of England. *' I shall now attempt as accurately as may be in my Power to communicate the leading features of this Conversation in their order of occurrence 42 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S *' H.M. began by the usual flattering Intima- tion that he eagerly seized the first opportunity of confirming the assurances made by His Chan- cellor at the Audience of Reception, how par- ticularly acceptable my appointment was to himself, His Ministry, and the whole Court, all of whom would unceasingly endeavour to render my stay here as agreeable as the limited Resources of the Country and the straitened nature of its society might admit. Next, having made me sit down by him, and repeatedly pressing my hand. He thus continued : * Mon G6n6ral, vous me trouvez ici. Je n'ai jamais ete un aspirant. Vous ne soup9onnerez pas un Homme de sens commun, d'avoir cherche d'etre accabl6 de la Tache de regner. Mais ' (as H.M. often repeated) ' y ay ant ete appele, c'est comme la mort, on ne la desire pas, on ne la craint pas. N'est-ce pas, mon General ? Vous me trouvez ici soutenu par le Roi votre maitre, par I'Angleterre. Toutes mes difficult^s ont 6te alleg^es par la Probit6 de ce grand Peuple. J'ai donn6 aux miens toute la Liberty que je les crois capable de supporter, et que je croyais comportait a leur Bonheur.' *' He then adverted nearly in the same words MISSION TO SWEDEN. 43 to the Reception of the Queen and Princess Royal on their landing at Stockholm. " ' Mes Suedois ne sont pas d6monstratifs, et la curiosite oisive n'est pas un trait de leur Caractere. lis les ont acceuilli avec ce sobre d^vouement qui caracterise la Nation. Mais ils n'en etaient pas moins sinceres ; il y parait clairement, que tout etait spontane dans leur acceuil ; en tant que je sais, qu'il ne s'y trouvait ni arrangement, ni in- fluence pr6medit6e. Cest tm bon Peuple, Ils ne sont pas comme les Franqais, qui ne pensent qu^au moment, les Sttedois pensent d demain. Ils sont regies. Je ne serais jamais arrive a mon but sans I'appui de I'Angleterre. Pendant que je serai ici, je ne manquerai jamais en reconnaissance envers le Roi votre Maitre, et je suis vrai.' ^^' * " General, you find me here ! I never aspired to this post. You would never suspect a man of any common sense to have sought to be burthened with the duty of reigning. But " (as H.M. often repeated) " having been called thereto, it is like death, one does not desire it, one does not fear it. Is it not so, General ? You find me here supported by the King your Master — by England. All my difficulties have been lightened by the honesty of that great people. I have given my subjects all the, liberty I considered them capable of having, and that I thought compatible with their happiness. . . . My Swedes are not demonstrative, and idle curiosity is not a trait of their 44 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S *' Having thus repeatedly, and with a strength of Language peculiarly his own, expressed his respect, gratitude, and devotion to H.B.M^, He asserted his conviction that the happiness of Sweden mainly hinged upon the kindness and Protection of the King of England, charging me to say that 5uch Feelings, and all he had expressed, were deeply graven on his Heart, were inseparable from him, and would only die with him. '' The conversation then made a Natural Tran- sition to the British Ministry. ' Happily,' said the King, ' in your country great men are never wanting, fully adequate to the Crisis of the Moment.' "He dwelt on the Catastrophe of Lord London- character. They received them " (alluding to the reception of the Prince and Princess Royal) " with that sober devotion which characterises the nation. But they were none the less sincere, -and it appears plainly that everything was spontaneous in their welcome ; as far as I know there was neither prearrangement nor premeditated influence. They are a good people. They are not like the French, who only think of the present moment. Swedes think of the morrow, and they are steady. " I should never have succeeded in my object without the support of England. As long as I am here I shall never fail in feelings of gratitude towards the King your Master \ and I am true " MISSION TO SWEDE N. 45 derry, and on the known Talents of the distinguished individual who now suppHes his Place [Mr. Can- ning], adding that his country had advantageously felt them on a former occasion. *' I plead my first Conversation with H.M. as an excuse for prolixity. Obvious as the case must be, I should, on judging from the Archives here, have been unwilling to trouble you with an oft- told Tale, but at an Epoch so interesting to the Dynasty, and which perhaps more than any other since the Present King's accession, suggests to H.M. the importance of conciliating higher Powers, I feel I should have done wrong to omit record- ing in some detail professions so often put forth to my Predecessors, but never, perhaps, so strongly as to myself," etc. DESPATCH NO. 4. TO MR. CANNING. *' Stockholm, y//;^^ 20, 1823. ^'SlR, ''On the 14th Inst, the Crown Prince re- ceived the Deputations of the Swedish States and the Norwegian Storthing, and I have the Honor to enclose (with translations) the Gazette contain- ing the respective addresses of those Bodies and H^R.H.'s answers. 46 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S ''The Corps Diplomatique were presented to the Queen of Sweden on the 17th Inst., and received by H' M^ with the most gracious kindness. On the morning of the 19th, the Crown Princess entered Stockholm in State, and immediately received the Diplomatic Corps, and the different House- holds. The evening of the same day was fixed on for the solemnization of the Marriage of their R.R.H.H. the Crown Prince of Sweden and his august consort. The Ceremony was conducted with becoming Pomp and Magnificence. Sub- sequently, the Garrison being all under arms, the Corps Diplomatique, the Grand Dignitaries, and the Diet of Sweden, repaired in procession from the Palace to the Cathedral of St, Nicolas, and then awaited the Royal Family. Their R.R.H.H. were there united according to the rites of Sweden. ''The evening concluded by a supper at Court, given to the Corps Di^"^ the High Ofiicers of State, and 800 of the principal Personages of both kingdoms. "On the 23rd their R.R.H.H. will receive the felicitations of their devoted friends, after which will ensue the different fetes incident to MISSION TO SWEDEN. 47 the marriage. These will, it is said, occupy the whole of the coming week. **The occasion, being one of such deep interest to these Countries, has naturally increased the effect produced on all classes by the graceful Dignity and prepossessing manners of this beautiful, accom- plished, and interesting Princess," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 5. TO MR. CANNING. ^^June 21, 1823. '' Sir, " I should not omit to mention that the King, still sore from the acquittal of Baron Ankerswardt of the Charge of High Treason, and aware of His being really open to attack thro' the public Press, under the pretence of simply arraigning the Measures of Government, has attempted to put forward to the Diet, the necessity, as he says, of graduating the degrees of Punishment, in proportion to the Crime of Libelling the Royal Person, and that of unduly arraigning the Measures of State. His real object was to establish some Penalty for what was before unpunishable, namely : the free expression, thrd the Press, of individual opinion on the acts of Government', and he proposed to the Diet a Law 48 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S for enacting Imprisonment as the Penalty for the Libellotcs expression of such opinions. The pro- posal however was rejected by a very large Majority, as affording to the King an opportunity of influencing those Judges, who would unwillingly condemn an Individual to Death, but might not hesitate to award imprisonment for a much longer term than the offence might really deserve. '' 100,000 Dollars have been lately added by the Diet to the King's Civil List. ''A singular instance has lately occurred of the Nobles voting in opposition to the Peasants, and the former have been violently attacked by the last- mentioned Body for deserting the interests of their old Friends. The Case concerns the continuation to the Peasants of some interior commercial Privileges, and is only worth notice in the point of view above mentioned. The Peasants were supported by the Clergy and the Burghers," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 6. TO MR. CANNING. ''July I, 1823. '' Sir, ''The Ceremonies attendant on the Royal Marriage having at length afforded a moment's MISSION TO SWEDEN, 49 repose, I waited on Count Engestrom, upon the subject of your Despatch No. 2, at the Cabinet, and had a most satisfactory conversation with His Excellency this morning. ** I opened our conference by intimating that I came on a subject of the deepest importance to Humanity, the Slave Trade, on which H.E. referred to the Swedish note addressed to Mr. St. George, on the T3th last December, asking if it were not suffi- cient, and whether more on the part of Sweden was expected by the British Government. I replied by assuring him of the extreme satisfaction of His Majesty and his Ministry at the King of Sweden's late prompt Declaration against that detestable Traffic, couched as it is, in the Sense and Terms specified in your Despatch No. i to Mr. St. George, stating at the same time, that nothing in Essence was further demanded, but only that greater solemnity might be given to an existing Instru- ment intended to effect the wishes of their Majesties and of the two Countries. *'H.E. referred again to the late Swedish Declaration, requested it might be read to him, and to know your further wishes on the Subject. I at once declared that you thought it advisable VOL. I, E 50 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S to give, if possible, additional Stability to the wishes of both Sovereigns, by a Treaty, similar as far as circumstances might admit, to those Treaties already concluded by England with other Maritime States, and forming a part as they now do of the Maritime Law of so many European Powers ; that, in fact, your wish referred to the manne7^, not to the mattei^ and that I anticipated an encouraging reply. '' I should inform you that instantly on my mentioning as your object a Treaty confirmatory of the Swedish Decla^^ation, Count Engestrom, as if he had till then not expected further Demands, replied instantly by the familiar Phrase, ' Ah ! Oest avec le plus grand plaisir' I then read those parts of your Despatch to me, No. 2, and of Sir C. Robinson's Letter, that I thought necessary to the further explanation of your wishes. The Count requested me to give him extracts from the above Documents informally and merely pro memoria^ referred slightly to the Tenor of our Slave Trade Treaties with other powers, and desired me to leave those Treaties for his Perusal. "He asserted more than once that altho' he could not then take upon himself to announce the MISSION TO SWEDEN. 51 •opinion of His Swedish Majesty, he saw no impedi- ment whatever to the accomplishment of the end proposed, desiring me at the close of our Interview to convey these Sentiments to yourself. *'The very frank and precise tone of the Count's Conversation induces me to think that I am not too sanguine in expecting every facility will be afforded by Count Engestrom towards accomplish- ing the views of the British Government," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 8. TO MR. CANNING. ^^July lo, 1823. '' There appears to me to exist a strange anomaly in the Swedish Constitution, with which I venture at this moment to trouble you. The King cannot displace Judges at pleasure, and in the Interval between the Diets they can only be removed by the Common Process at Law, but every Diet, on its Convocation, immediately selects twelve members from each order to form a (Namut) Committee of 48, and which is justly termed a Committee of Opinion. ''This Committee is vested with the power of Dismissing without appeal these most sacred func- tionaries, the party so dismissed is not arraigned, E 2 52 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and, in fact, does not even undergo the form of a Trial. Judgment may therefore be pronounced according to the feelings, or Prejudices, of this Despotic Body," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 10. TO MR. CANNING. ''July 17, 1823. ''It appears that the Distracted State of Spain has weighed for some time and continues to press very painfully on the mind of the King of Sweden. I form this opinion from the lengthened conversa- tions with which He lately Honored me. H.M. alluding particularly to the late Events detailed in the Public Papers, 'les horreurs qui se passaient a Seville, et a la conduite des Cortes envers le Roi d'Espagne,' declared with a most unusual ardour of manner, ' que I'infamie de tels procedes devait se faire sentir a tous les Rois, et que pour lui, chaque fois qu'il y pensait, ils lui donnaient des Crispations de Nerfs ;' and obviously the subject dwelling on his mind. He earnestly assured me some days afterwards, ' que toute I'affaire lui faisait absolument dresser les Cheveux.' ^^ I feel I ouo-ht * ct The horrors which took place at Seville and the conduct of the Cortes towards the King of Spain. . . . The infamy of MISSION TO SWEDEN, 53 not to omit mentioning these expressions of H.S.M., conveying as they do, in the most unqualified Terms, His decided opinion on this Sacred Cause — and evidently not of minor interest to his Kingly Powe7%'' etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. II. TO MR. CANNING. ''July 17, 1823. ** I waited on Count Engestrom this morning, by his desire, when he informed me that a Spanish Courier, a Captain in the Service of the Regency of Madrid, arrived here the day before yesterday, with a letter which the Count read to me, dated Madrid, 31st May, signed Victor Damian Saez, and enclosing Count Engestrom a letter (and its copy) addressed to H.S.M. by the Regency, announcing to H.M. their Installation. '' M. Saez simply subscribed his Name without designation. ''His Majesty refused to receive the letter in question, which will consequently remain unopened such proceedings must have been felt by all Sovereigns, and as to himself, each time he thought of them they gave him an attack of nerves. . . . That the whole affair actually made his hair stand on end." 54 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S in the Swedish Archives, and the Courier having received a simple Certificate, that he had presented a Packet to Count Engestrom, was immediately empowered to continue his Route without further reply or delay. '' The Courier came by the way of the Hague, Dresden, Berlin, and Petersburg, was detained a fortnight at the latter Capital, where, as the Count without comment informed me, he had been pre- sented with a Ring by the Emperor of Russia. '' He has probably ere this left Stockholm, whence he proceeds immediately by Copenhagen to Dresden, to receive the Commands of the Saxon Court for the Queen of Spain. Hence it seems that whatever, or whether any reply be given, no Party appears to deem haste necessary," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 12. TO MR. CANNING. " Stockholm, y/z/y 17, 1823. '' I beg to inform you that in a Strong Representation made to me by Messrs. Consuls Wise & Foy, in consequence of numerous Letters addressed to them by Lloyds, which letters urged the peculiar pressure of the Regulations of the Swedish diving company upon British Commerce, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 55 I ventured to hint some days ago to Count Enge- strom the justice of rescinding as soon as possible the hard regulations in question, advancing at the same time a strong title to some compensation, the Commercial Enactments in favor of Foreign Nations, which are now in progress thro' the British Legislature. The late reductions in English Tonnage dues of nearly two-thirds on Foreign Vessels, and the extreme difference of the Light Money of the two Countries, it being 10 to one in favor of Sweden. *' With regard to this Diving Company, the regulations of which weigh most unjusdy heavily on British navigation, and on which Mr. St. George has already slightly touched, H.E. stated that it was the intention of H.M. 'de faire cesser cet etablisse- ment, aussitot que son Octroi cesserait en 1827.' '* With regard to the Enactments in favor of foreign commerce, now in progress thro' Parliament, and as I said claiming some return, H.E. only observed that he and others were favorable to a freer importation system, that he would consult the president of the Treasury, Baron Wirser, who much coincided with him in opinion, and then confer with me on the subject. 56 LORD BLOOMFIELUS MISSION TO SWEDEN, '' I can confidently assure you, that Count Wetterstedt is highly favorable to a material re- laxation of the present Swedish Commercial Imposts, as well as to the Abolition of the Diving Company, and it appears to my humble judgment, that this is the moment for Inducing Sweden to include England in its most favorable Commercial Regu- lations," etc., etc. CHAPTER II. DIARY. Artillery Practice — Journey to Nykoping and Finspong — Visit to Drottingholm — Commercial Negotiations — Police Regula- tions — Seditious Letters. Friday^ July \%th, 1823. — I attended the Prince Royal at a practice of artillery at half-past nine, and I never saw more accurate firing at long dis- tances. His Royal Highness was peculiarly gra- cious, and never allowed me to leave him for a moment. He gave a dinner to the officers of the Corps, where I sat upon his right hand, and where he loaded me with kindness. He proposed my health, and then proposed '' The British Artillery." I became quite one of themselves, and I attended His Royal Highness to the Palace. Saturday^ July igth, — I made my arrange- ments for an absence of some days. We started 58 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S out of my yard at half-past eight with a journey to Nykoping of eighty miles before us ; how that was to be performed within time I could not imagine, with four animals resembling in size the small pony of Malvern, and harnessed abreast. The courier presented himself with half-a-dozen whips equipped with horsehair thongs tied to a common stick, and each one being in his place, not forgetting the peasant behind, we began our day's work. 'All arrangements for a journey are made beforehand, by sending notice to the posts of the number of horses and the hour they are required ; if they are kept an hour beyond the time, payment for delay is the law. A Swedish mile (seven English) should be performed within the hour, and orders are sent accordingly. When I beheld these little ponies I fully expected to fail in my time, but to my great surprise, after at least three English miles of bad pavement, we set off and reached Nykoping in eleven hours, having stopped one hour for dinner ; the delays of chang- inor are considerable, as one travels with one's o own harness, which is changed at every stage ; and we observed, with our best exertion, that it required ten minutes to perform this operation. MISSION' TO SWEDEN. 59 The Stages run from ten to fifteen miles, so that even in England this rate of travelling for such a length of ground would be remarkable. To be sure one has one's own coachman, and the poor peasant, to whom the horses belong, if he does remonstrate, remonstrates in vain ; in doing so he risks the wrath of the coachman, who makes no more ceremony of laying the horsehair thong upon his shoulders than upon those of his good little animals. However, I should say that only in one instance did the peasant petition on behalf of his team. When one changes horses, the operation of freeing those who have done their work, by untying the collars at the bottom and taking off the bridles, the harness is a complete wreck. The little animals are so intelligent, that when they are unbridled they run forward, and the fresh ones are backed into their places. The ceremony of tying, etc., takes ten minutes, as I said before. The peasant makes you the lowest bow for about a penny ; the whole expense of posting with four horses, and our own eating, drinking, and sleep- ing, is covered by about sixpence an English mile. The road is by far the finest I ever travelled over, but the country may be said to have a sameness 6o MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S of character. It is true the features may be Hmited to four — rock, wood, water, and hills, not moun- tains ; still they are so varied in their distribution that they incessantly change their appearance, and the road being most ingeniously diverted from the straight line this effect is greatly augmented. There is scarcely any plane in the whole of this distance, but it is to be observed that the industry of the people is employed wherever there Is a single perch of land capable of cultivation ; the crops generally appeared very abundant and beginning to turn colour ; hay was, in some places, saved. The houses everywhere have an air of comfort, and the people seemed well clothed and apparently well fed ; there is a simplicity In their costume and manners that is very prepossessing, and I under- stand that they are integrity itself. We passed close to one nobleman's house ; the situation was beautiful, and there was a character of park with fine water that is not common here. The proprietor (Baron Riddesstolp), like most of the great people in Sweden, possesses large iron works. Our dinner was frugal, consisting of cold eels, cold veal, cold roast beef (our own) strawberries, cream, and eggs. The brandy of this country is made of barley, and MISSION TO SWEDEN. 6i SO much resembles whisky that we drank a tumbler each to poor Ireland's convalescence, and got into our carriage with six rosy cheeks, not much displeased with each other. The little low carriage of this country which serves for farming and trans- port purposes is very, light and drawn by two horses ; it is about three feet wide and nine feet long, its depth perhaps about three feet ; the frame is lightly railed, so that coming from market the farmers generally go a smart trot, and down hills as fast as they can go. We reached Nykoping at half-past seven o'clock, a nice clean town, the inn a large house in a fine square ; we were, however, lodged most comfortably at an alderman's and had a hearty tea ; this accommodation, and an excellent breakfast next morning, cost ten shillings, but this unreasonable charge included sixpence a mile for four horses. The only incident on the road was our upsetting an old man and woman. Dugon, who is the most active and best servant I ever saw, had them on their legs, the cart . upon its wheels, and the horse disentangled and upon his legs too, before we could get up and look back ; the poor people had some grass In their cart, which the old woman setting instantly to work to collect, 62 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S relieved us from the dread that they were hurt. I don't suppose the whole affair lasted one minute, when we resumed our pace. Excepting this little adventure, we had not a single co7itretemps for the eighty miles. Sunday, July 20th. — Left Nykoping at a quarter before eight. The road magnificent, and we gained upon our calculation of seven English miles an hour considerably. Dined at Lilla Aby. On our road thither, and about one English mile from the dining place, is the highest hill we passed over ; from the summit the view is grand, and compre- hends an indenture of the Baltic, the town of Norrkopping, and a very fine cultivated plain. We here began to see a variety of trees ; generally the forests were Alpine. We traversed one very thick, at least four miles (English) long, and the road meandering through it. The effect of the deep shade was imposing on the brightest day possible. It is very remarkable how few birds we saw, and not a wild beast, though so thinly inhabited. Sheep and cows with bells about their necks, and a miserable race of pigs, with their bristles sticking up on their backs like the wild boar. We proceeded on our journey, and arrived MISSION TO SWEDEN. at this magnificent and hospitable Chateau Fin- spong at five o'clock ; distance, 60 EngUsh miles. We rested an hour. The Count Wetterstedt welcomed us in the hall, pressed us to come to dinner, but we begged to go to our rooms and get through the very necessary ceremony of wash- ing ourselves. He conducted us to our apart- ments, and as soon as possible I presented myself. , Dessert was going round. Nothing could be more hospitable or unaffectedly glad to receive us, and after some fruit we retired to the drawing-room to coffee. Even in Ireland more hospitality could not have been shown us. The entrance of the Park is very fine ; a beautiful piece of water, and two miles at least of approach from the gate to the House. There is a , beautifully rapid river passing close under my windows ; indeed, the house stands upon a small island, and is very highly dressed everywhere, an Orangery, and all the improvements a ranglaise as far as the climate permits. After coffee, about six, several carriages awaited us at the door, and the company proceeded to two very beautiful Pavilions upon an Island, where all the population of the village were assembled. The Countess having prepared the 64 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S fiddlers in a bower, there was a merry dance upon the lawn. The extraordinary simplicity and clean- liness of the dress of the lower orders is most striking ; each parish has some variety of costume. The women have invariably a milk-white hand- kerchief on their heads, worn as our women in Ireland do to keep them from the cold ; under- neath they have a particularly neat lace cap, and upon the back is a covering of embroidered silk ; nothing prettier could be imagined. The body of their dress resembles the time of Queen Eliz^ ; long waist, buttoned like a man's waistcoat, a good, comfortable, warm petticoat, with white stockings and shoes. Their dance is simply turning each other round, two and two. They are not col- lected into any figure, neither have they any particular steps. You never saw 400 people more contented and delighted, all coming up and kissing the Countess's gown, or paying her some mark of respect. Unfortunately, the rain broke up our meeting, and we were forced reluctantly to return to the house. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 65 DESPATCH NO. 13. TO MR. CANNING. *' Stockholm, August 6, 1823. '' Sir, '' I felt it my duty to call on Count Engestrom, at the Cabinet yesterday, to ascertain in what light His Swedish Majesty had been pleased to view H.E.'s report mentioned in my No. 12, and containing such Extracts from Herslett's Slave Trade as might have reference to the case of Sweden. '' H.E. desired me positively to assure you, ' qu'il n'^tait question que de la formule, et que quant a cette affaire, ce que desire le Roi d'Angle- terre, est ce que desire le Roi de Suede,""' etc., etc. despatch no. 14. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, August 6^ 1823. '' I cannot refrain from mentioning an anec- dote that I have from a source of undoubted authority. H.M. was strongly advised by the * "That it was merely a question of form, and that as to this affair, whatever the King of England desires, the King of Sweden desires." VOL. I. F 66 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Count Lowenhjelm not to accept Baron Akerhjelm's resignation, as few would be found to unite in the same degree with the Baron the quaHties essential to the Direction of the Theatre. ' Ah ! M, le Comtek said the King, ' d'apres ma connaissaiice du monde, il ny a pas de pei^tes i7'reparables. ' ' Non, Sire J replied the Count, 'Buonaparte 77te7ne 7iest pas irreparable, et 07i le voit bieTt aujou7'-dliiiiy'"^' Friday, August Wi, — We proceeded to the Palace of Drottingholm, a most beautiful road, and this great building which terminates this ride is very grand. The situation is low. *' Holm " means an island ; therefore, when you see " Holm " ending the name of a place, it denotes an island — *' Drottingholm " (Queen's Island), ''Stockholm" (many islands). I prepared for my grand Political Dinner. The custom of " schal " before dinner is comical : a small table is prepared in another apartment, upon which is bread, cheese, sausages, Dutch herrings, sardines, smoked goose, etc., * " Ah, Count," said the King, " from my knowledge of the world, no losses are irreparable." " No, sire," replied the Count, " Buonaparte himself is not irreparable, and one sees that plainly now.' MISSION TO SWEDEN. 67 brandy, whisky, and rum, of which the men partake copiously, as if to promote appetite, and then one adjourns to dinner. Sunday, Aitgttst lotk, — I dined at General Suchetelen's, where he and I always drink a bumper *' to your health." A large dinner. Count and Countess Wetterstedt and Mad. Montgomerie after dinner treated us to three or four delicious songs. The party was very agreeable. The afternoon was passed in the garden, where we had refreshments. Having heard that the English mail had arrived, I hastened home, and to my great dismay, upon asking for my bag from the porter, there was nothing. I immediately flew to the Post Office in rage the first, and in despair, coming away the '' Directeur " arrived in his carriage. I insisted there must be letters and newspapers, if my bag had not come, and he as positively insisted that there was neither bag nor letters. However, after strongly remonstrating, I obtained entry into the office, where, to my inexpressible delight, my bag presented itself, to the astonishment of the " Direc- teur." I took the sack in my hand, and walked away, threatening him with the representation which I am about to make to the authorities. F 2 6S MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S DESPATCH NO. 1 6. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, August 14, 1823. '' Sir, " I had this morning a most satisfactory conversation with Count Wetterstedt. Hitherto, prohibition had been the fundamental principle of this commerce, to which Ics Entrees had formed the exception, but it was decided to adopt as a basis freer Imp07'tation, to which each prohibitive article was to be regarded as an exception. '' 2ndly, of admitting as far as practicable all things not manufactured in this country. '' 3rdly, of admitting on the same terms, all objects fabricated here, when not in sufficient quantity, and " 4thly, of admitting all articles whatever tho' manufactured in Sweden in sufficient quantity for home consumption, under the observance of certain conditions, and the payment of certain duties. '' I should mention that the Count did not contest a single point of your Despatch No. 4, and if I be not deceived, the important question of our com- mercial relations with Sweden will be placed upon the footing of reciprocity calculated to give satis- faction to His Majesty's Government, and to benefit MISSION TO SWEDEN. 69 both countries. I can, at least, positively say that the subject is en marche, and with a character of activity rarely to be observed in the acts of this Cabinet," etc., etc. DIARY. Friday, August i^tL — I went to the Countess de Geer's, where there was a pleasant party. The ladies are very industrious ; each brings her work, and they all collect round a table after tea until supper. Tea is generally served d la^iglaise, and made by the lady. This is the first house in Stockholm. The Count is Marshal of the Diet, that is to say Chairman, and at the head of the order, sums up debates and directs and regulates all the proceedings in the " Salle des Nobles," where they are sometimes very unruly. DESPATCH NO. 1 8. ^^ August 1 6, 1823. " Sir, *' I this morning presented to the King the Royal Congratulatory Letters on the Marriage of the Crown Prince. H.M. honored me with a most gracious reception, and a conversation of some length. In reply to the sentiments of friendship 70 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and regard which I deemed suitable to the happy occasion, and conceived it my duty to convey on the part of my Royal Master, H.M. reiterated with unabated warmth, those expressions of devoted gratitude to the King of England which so strongly characterised my earliest interview with H.M., and earnestly desired me to convey those sentiments, * avec les voeux les plus ardens pour le retablisse- ment parfait de la sante de S.M. et pour la prosperite de ses royaumes.' ''' He next passed to the affairs of Spain, and inquired whether my private sources afforded any intelligence of interest, to which, by way of continuing the conversation, I answered that some of my correspondents con- ceived that the actual state of the Peninsula lasted too long. On which the King said his advices intimated the same, and frankly asked me how I supposed my Government viewed the Spanish question. I naturally replied that in no case did England more cautiously express an opinion than in one involving the slightest interference with the internal state of other countries. To which he * " With my most ardent wishes for the perfect re-establish- ment of His Majesty's health and the prosperity of his kingdoms." MISSJON TO SWEDEN. 71 rejoined, ' Ne vous trompez pas, mon General, je ne desirais pas pen^trer la faQon de penser de votre Gouvernement la-dessus, mais seulement savoir s'il existait la moindre chance que quelque r^montrance que ce fut de la part de I'Angleterre, ramenat I'Espagne a des vues plus saines de ses veritables interets. Le Roi d'Espagne est vrai- ment a plaindre. Je suis liberal ' (then as if correcting himself), ' c.a.d., je suis Roi constitu- tionnel, mais pour la Finance, pour la Guerre, pour la Justice, pour I'lnterieure, une seule tete ne suffit pas. II faut des Gouvernemens, il faut s'y fier, mais il faut constamment les employer, il ne faut pas les laisser dormir. Souvent c'est I'ambition qui y mene. II ne faut pas chercher a regner, mais quand on y est appele, il ne faut pas craindre.' ^'' * " Do not deceive yourself, General, I do not wish to pry into the thoughts of your Government on this subject (the Spanish question), but only to know whether there is the slightest chance that some remonstrance on the part of England should bring Spain back to sounder views of her true interests. The King of Spain is truly to be pitied. I am a liberal, that is to say I am a Constitutional Sovereign, but in questions of finance, war, justice, and home government, a single head is not sufficient. One must have a Government and one must trust it, but one must constantly keep it employed, and not allow it to sleep. Often ambition leads the way. One should not seek to reign, but when one is called to do so one must not fear.*' 72 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S ''The King evidently appeared to apprehend the increasing influence of the popular party in Spain, though still cherishing hope of a fortunate result from the influence actually ascendant there. '* H.M. was first made aware by me of Sir William A'Court's arrival at Gibraltar, but without attempting to ascertain his future destination, he only repeated what I have already announced to you, that the Swedish Charge d'Affaires in Spain had orders to follow most strictly the traces of the British Minister," etc., etc. DIARY. Monday, August i?>th. — I went to the police to have a stable helper punished for misconduct. They asked me why I did not bastinado the man ? I replied, that I hoped an English Minister would never avail himself of that law. They then asked why I did not order him to be flogged ? The Swedish male servants are sad plagues, very dirty and drunken ; the women servants are cleanly and industrious. DESPATCH NO. 1 9. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, August 21, 1823. " Ministers have at length assured me that the regulation of the Swedish Diving Company MISSION TO SWEDEN. n will be relaxed in favour of England as soon as the hurry of the Diet shall afford the King a moment of leisure. The relaxation will go to the length of placing English vessels, in case of shipwreck, on the same footing with regard to salvage imports as the vessels of this country. Nothing more was specifically promised on the above head, but both Ministers professed their perfect willingness to adopt still further modifica- tions in a Commercial Treaty, which latter Instru- ment, in the probably new state of things, they conceived, if agreeable to yourself, would be not only advantageous but desirable. They, indeed, dwelt strongly on this point. '' I should do injustice to this Cabinet were I to omit mentioning in the strongest manner its frank and easy tone of discussing these important topics, as well as its anxiety, so constantly apparent, to meet your wishes on all points of mutual interest," etc., etc. DIARY. Saturday, Atcgust 23rd.— The Irish postilion, who was acting as our groom to-day, soon bid us good-bye. He came galloping past J. B. and me, run away with. We followed as fast as we could. 74 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S but could not trace him anywhere. At last we resolved to go home and despatch a Swedish helper in search of the poor boy. I was in the greatest distress, for I could not dismiss from my mind the probability of some serious accident. However, to my great delight he returned safe and sound, as well as the horse. It is impossible to say what a nice little fellow he is. John questioned him how he escaped with his life, and how far he (the horse) went with him. '' By my sowl, sir, he went as far as he was able with me, and when he lost his wind he 'stopped, and if I was twice as strong I could not howld the devil ; " he added, " however, I had a very pleasant ride, and contrived to keep him on the high road." His courage is not, however, quite so valiant as it was when he answered Holmes' question if he could ride : '' I think, surr, I could make him hop." I had yesterday a very comical coitversation with the boy. I asked him : '' How do you like Sweden ?" ''Very well, surr." The boy is remarkably modest, and is not very ready to joke ; however, is not without resource in that way, as John says, ''when his blood's up." I then said : " How do you like being postilion ? " MISSION TO SWEDEN. 75 *'Very well, sum" *' Would you like to be any thing else?" After a pause he said: ''Yes." '' What ? I suppose my coachman ? " '' No, surr." ''Well, John, what would you like to be?" After some hesitation he said: "A gentleman, because I should have plenty of money and nothing to do." " What would you do with the money ? " "Have horses and carriages in plenty." "Well, John, but you would soon be tired of having no- thing to do." "Well, surr, I should like to try." " Is there anything else you'd like to be better, for you see / have plenty to do?" "Well then, surr, I should like to be the King." The dialogue ended here, and greatly amused both John and myself. Monday, August 2^th. — I drove to Drotting- holm to dine with T.M.'s. This place is quite beautiful, upon the banks of the Lake Mahler. I was ushered into the apartments, and I was received with the utmost civility and attention. As soon as the Prince and Princess arrived, the ceremony of bowing, etc., over. His Royal High- ness most courteously proposed to show me about the rooms; conducted me to a very handsome library, composed of several cheerful rooms and .76 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S apparently well filled with books. I had not, of course, an opportunity of ascertaining the quality of the collection, but I rather think it is not a very rare one. The approach to this chateau is beyond imagination striking. The exterior is in imitation of Versailles, and is in a good state, but the inside requires a little repair, though very habitable. The King arrived with the Queen. His Majesty approached me immediately, shook hands with me in the most gracious manner, and after expressing himself pleased to see me, and Her Majesty also, the King said : " Je vais conduire ma femme ; Monsieur le Comte " (addressing himself to •Count Brahe), ''conduisez le General." After attend- ing their Majesties to their carriages, I was mounted in a phaeton with the Count, and drove to a beautiful Chinese building, about a quarter of a mile (English) in the garden, where dinner was prepared. Their Majesties drove in a carriage and six horses, and all the rest of the Court drove with four horses ; we passed a beautiful valley and arrived. The usual circle was made, and I was instructed to conduct the first lady of rank, the Countess Lowenhjelm, to dinner, and to place my- self to the Princess's left. We were about twenty- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 77 two at the King's table, and about eighteen at another. The King sat in the centre, the Queen on his right, and the Prince Royal on her right,^ the Princess on the King's left, and y'' humble servant next. We dined in a separate pavilion, formerly built by Gustave III. for his small parties, and which was so private that the dinner was wound up from below, and each individual having a dumb waiter, no one entered the room. The King recounted all this very comically, adding the last king was rather a '' polisson." The dinner went off very cheerfully, and about five we rose up from the table, returning to the main building for coffee. There was a great deal of unceremonious pas- time in which His Majesty took part. When liqueurs went round, the King proposed to me to go with him in his carriage for a drive in the Park. In a few minutes a dozen carriages arrived,, and I was placed next the King, the Queen in her carriage and six. The King drove first, and showed me a beautiful side of the Park, explaining his projects for its improvement. The drive was about fourteen miles (English), and was particularly varied and picturesque : fine alleys the character 78 MEMOIR 01 LORD BLOOMFIELD'S of the home scene, then water, alpine firs, and rocks composed the distant parts. I ought to have mentioned that after coffee the King desired me to give my arm to the Queen, which I of course did, and Her Majesty conducted us through the walks and pleasure grounds, which were filled with people from the town and neighbourhood, all showing the utmost respect to the Royal Family. It seems that this condescension never having been shown to any Minister, has made quite a sensation in the capital. Indeed, the invitation is considered a great compliment to me. Sunday, Atcgust Z'^st. — The country through which I travelled was quite delightful, and at the end of my journey I arrived at the hospitable Chateau of the Baron Akerhjelm, situated on the banks of the Mahler. The views from the house are beautiful. A great expanse of lake presents itself, broken by numerous wooded islands, and the house and gardens are quite d> I'anglaise, Tttesday, September 2nd. — Went out shooting at six o'clock — no sport. There seems no game in the country. Two hares only were killed. The principal sport is hares and foxes, and, being an Irishman, I must not be guilty of shooting poor MISSION TO SWEDEN, 79 Reynard. I returned at eleven. Drove out at twelve towards Gothenbourg. I never passed so beautiful a ravine. This is an island, save a narrow isthmus over which one drives, having the lake on both sides. The ground is high on the banks. A most romantic line of road, through rocks and forests, where the calm serenity of the lake com- poses the agitated imagination which the surround- ing scenery excites ! Wednesday, September y^d. — Went out to see the Baron's farming establishments, which are well managed, and, notwithstanding the severity of the climate, are very productive. The greater the difficulties the more a man's exertions and intellects are called out. This country furnishes striking examples of this fact. I drove out to see another .part of the neighbourhood. The magnificent lake makes all the scenery beautiful, notwithstanding the monotony which may appear. DESPATCH NO. 2 2. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, SeJ>te?nber 6, 1823. *' I cannot refrain from pressing upon your notice my humble opinion, that never was moment 8o MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S more eligible than the present for coming to some conventional understanding with this country con- cerning the introduction of British manufactures into it, as the very imperfect, almost infant state of the Swedish fabrics could not but afford a most advantageous market to English goods, whatever duty (if at all reasonable) Sweden might wish to impose," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 3 1. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, October 30, 1823. '' The most interesting questions at present on the table of the different Orders, and daily expected to fall under discussion, are— - '' I St. The Vasa Pecuniary Claims, amounting to a million and a half of B'^" Doll'', in lieu of all demands. I learn that this question will be carried* " 2ndly. The proposal by the King of Sweden to abolish that article of the Constitution which stipulates the appointment at each Diet of a Cornite dopinion, and vests it, as detailed in my No. 8, with the preposterous power of dismissing, without appeal or reason given, any Judge of the different Swedish tribunals. The defects of such a system are too evident to need comment, and hopes are MISSION TO SWEDEN, 8i entertained that H.M.'s proposal will be accepted by the Diet," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 34. TO MR. CANNING. *^ Stockholm, November 27, 1823. " I learn from good authority that the States General intend to suggest immediately to the King of Sweden that the Queen be crowned within the period of the present Diet, which H.M. proposes should terminate its sittings in the course of next month. '' The affair originated in an almost unanimous proposition of the peasants to petition the King to the above effect, but as the case involves expense, and legally depends on H.M.'s pleasure, the result, or whether any will occur, is very problematical," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 38. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, December 20, 1823. '' Something of a nature perhaps from repe- tition more ridiculous than unpleasant, occurred lately in this capital : the attempt at circulating a threatening seditious letter. VOL. I. G 82 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S ''A week ago a peasant, neither a Deputy to the States nor a member of the Peasants' Club, but brought there by a comrade, was met on the stairs of that estabhshment by a stranger, who requested him to deliver a letter to another peasant deputed to the Diet, and above stairs, he, the bearer, not knowing, as he said, the person to whom the letter was addressed. The peasant delivered it, and the stranger absconded. '' The Deputy peasant to whom it was directed, found under the outer envelope a letter clumsily signed Gtistave, and addressed to the Nation, assert- ing the rights of that person to the Swedish Throne, and his intention to enforce those rights by foreign troops, accompanied by himself ; requesting that public tranquillity might be preserved till his arrival, lauding the immemorial patriotism of the peasants, as frequent saviours of their country, characterising the King as unfit to govern, and the Prince Royal as exclusively devoted to his amusements. '* The Deputy attracted by his exclamations a circle round him, on which the second bearer of the letter (the instrument of the stranger on the stairs) attempted to escape, but was prevented. Those of the peasants who were present questioned MISSION TO SWEDEN. 83 him closely, and plying him with liquor, tried but in vain to extract further particulars than those mentioned concerning the letter. He only asserted that he had received it from a stranger. ''In the meantime a certain Hellichius, a clerk in one of the public offices, entered the Club to confer on business with a member ; the detained peasant, in the hope of escape, or from some motive yet unknown, immediately accused this Hellichius as the first man who delivered the letter on the stairs, and both were immediately taken before the police ; the result of the examination, as well as the letter, were next morning submitted to the King, and no copy has yet transpired. Hellichius, after frequent examinations, was, considering the inebriety of his accuser, and the incongruity of the charge, dismissed two days ago, but the peasant is still detained. Another letter lately addressed by a Custom House officer to the States General, tho' informally de- livered at the Salle des Nobles, complaining that the writer had been unjustly dismissed the service, was notwithstanding opened in the House, and this production has been causelessly connected by the public with the letter signed Gustave, as was also a chance circumstance attending the detention of G 2 84 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Hellichius. Gustave had, at the epoch of his revolution, ennobled another branch of that family under the name of Gustav-Skiold. '* It is equally singular and certain, that the King, hitherto notoriously unable to conceal his feelings on similar occasions, has borne this circum- stance with unwonted tranquillity, and hardly referred to it since its occurrence. The first Court of the Prince Royal was held next day, and in consequence was most numerously attended. '' Tho' no ;;f<^r/^^^ symptoms of public discontent have occurred since His Majesty's piquante reply (mentioned in my 37) to the Diet's request, that Funds hitherto at the Royal disposal should be placed somewhat under public control, it cannot escape the most careless or coolest observer, that a very general acrimony prevails throughout all classes in consequence of this reply and his sub- sequent dissent from the wishes of the States, occurring as did that dissent at the moment of Count Platen's speech (mentioned in my No. 37), and in coincidence with the Gustavian letter. The Diet must therefore close under auspices not the most conciliatory or agreeable to the King, who can not but remark how much more freely the Nobles talk, MISSION TO SWEDEN, 85 even in society at this Diet, than ever before since His Majesty's accession, of the unwieldiness of the four-ordered Constitution, the real Power, which notwithstanding its pretended popular structure it throws into the hands of the King, the expediency of lopping the useless branch of the peasants from the Legislation, and of consequently new-modelling both the constitution and the system of internal administration, as well as correcting the anomaly of a king who governs thro' the medium of mutilated translations ; add to all this the vast strides made by the Press of this country towards absolute freedom, if not licence, .in the lately multiplied public Journals ; and certainly matter of deep thought is afforded to those who reflect how suddenly and how silently Changes have been effected in this country. ''In thus stating, however, the public feeling at this moment, it is my very anxious desire not to create any impression on your mind of danger, as affecting the actual Dynasty, which I confess I do not at present entertain," etc., etc. CHAPTER III. Bourgeois Ball — Society of the Amarantes — Burghers' Ball — Count Steidingk — Russian Tariff — Interesting Conversation with the King — Death of the Duke of Leuchtenberg — Slave- trade Negotiations — Lord Bloomfield's First Ball — Com- mercial Despatches. Thursday, Jamiary \st, 1824. — I dined with thirty-two members of the Corps Diplomatique, a very good, well-conducted dinner, and all the com- pany seemed well pleased. We were very rherry, and Lady Bloomfield's health was drank in a bumper. At eight o'clock I went in full dress to the Bourgeois Ball at the fine room over the Ex- change, where the Innocents' Ball was held. The Royal Family arrived soon after us, and we were placed with the Court in the centre of one side of the great room. The Queen was magnificent, a profusion of diamonds on her head like a sort of double crown ; the Princess looked very well, and was very well dressed also. A thousand people were LORD BLOOMFIELD'S MISSION TO SWEDEN. 87 in the room, noblesse, bourgeois, tailors, and tradespeople. The ball opened with a country- dance, then waltzing, then a quadrille. The Prince danced with a bourgeoise and the Princess with the Count Brai, which gave offence, as she ought to have danced with a bourgeois. Tuesday, yamtary 6th, — I went to the great rdtmio7t of the Society of the Amarantes, where the ceremony of admission is very ridiculous ; as the Princess was to be admitted we were all in full dress, etc. There have been so many changes of late in the Corps Diplomatique that we were numerous, and, as foreigners, the first elected. One's name is written in a great book with the year of one's birth, and one has to pay an entrance fee. When all have passed that ordeal (each cavalier is protected by a lady), one is conducted by two young ladies leading the column with staffs of honour, and a loud rapping is made at the door and the Grand Master permits entry, when the aspirants are conducted three times round the great ball-room where are seated all the members of the Society, and a clap of hands announces admission. When, as the member of highest rank, I was brought forward to hear the discourse from the 88 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Grand Master, who is seated in state attended by the great officers of the Order, and the ladies, who are also in authority, all decorated with stars and ribbons, the speech was pronounced in French,. and was highly complimentary, engaging my good offices towards the well-being of the Society, and congratulating the Society upon my acquisition, adding many other fine things too tedious to men- tion. I bowed profoundly, placing my hand upon the cross which had been previously attached to my left breast. The Royal Family, the Queen, Prince and Princess, arrived, and the Grand Master (Count de la Gardie) addressed the Queen in French in a tone of adulation, and afterwards the Princess in Swedish, when the ceremony ended. Dancings a ranglaise, commenced ; the Princess looked very pretty, and excited the interest and admiration of everyone. I was in bed before eleven, notwith- standing all these doings. To be sure the cere- mony is quizzical enough, but every country has its customs. Friday, January gth, — A beautiful day. I rode at two ; the feel of the air resembled our finest April, and so great was the thaw that the roads MISSION TO SWEDEN, 89. and fields were quite soft as if there had been no frost, whereas yesterday the roads were as hard as pavement. I never recollect to have seen so rapid a thaw in the same short space of time — one night only. I dined with St. George, and had some music, I played the bass for the second time badly enough. Returned home at seven to receive some ladies who assembled to work at my house ; unluckily the Court carried off four out of seven. However, we were very merry, and the remaining three ladies were very industrious. S at tir day, January loth. — I dined with the King,, where I had the honor of being seated next the Queen ; a very agreeable party ; and after dinner at coffee Her Majesty made me sit near her and kept up a lively and very complimentary conversation, dwelling much upon the hope that you (Lady Bloomfield) might find Stockholm agreeable. At half-past seven I went to the '' Innocents' " ball, where the Princess was to be received, and where the new Grand Master, the Baron Akertjelm, had been elected under highly complimentary cir- cumstances. The Royal Family arrived soon after eight, when the Grand Master read an address in 90 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S French to the Queen, and one in Swedish to the Princess — very loyal and flattering. Her Royal Highness is a very interesting young person. Dancing began, the Princess dancing with the Grand Master. One would conceive that all the dignitaries of Europe were assembled at these rdunions, for the grades of these dancing societies are decorated with ribbons, etc., which they all wear upon the occasions of meeting ; indeed, are subject to a fine if they do not. The company sups at half-past eleven, and one gets home about one. I should have remarked that the accustomed attentions were paid to me at the Royal table ; the King sent me some of his own port wine ; '' 6tant anglais il faut aimer le port ! " Friday, famcary i6t/i. — I read with Mr. Stote [Swedish master] until a quarter to twelve. Still, I find, notwithstanding all this fagging, that I do not get on ; the opportunities of speaking Swedish never occur, except in a shop or to one of the servants. However, I shall persevere until I am able to make my way, which is all I covet. There is little to read, and French is entirely spoken in the circle in which I move. Thursday, January 22nd. — I dressed for the ball MISSION TO SWEDEN, 91 at the Lord Chamberlain's, where I went at eight o'clock. Upon arriving there, found that the Royal Family was expected, and that every Swede was in uniform and grand costume. I, in con- sequence, made my excuses to the Count and Countess Lowenhaupt, expressing my regret at not having known their Majesties intended to be present. In going down the stairs who should we pounce upon but the Queen. We, however, hid ourselves in a coal-hole and escaped unob- served, but better qualified for a masquerade in the character of sweeps than for representation as the British Representative and his suite. Wednesday y January 2?>tk. — I went to the Burghers' Ball at seven. The entertainment was given in honor of the Royal nuptials. I never entered a ball-room in my life where I was so struck with the effect of light (all wax candles) and the assemblage of ladies. The room was decorated with emblems suited to the occasion, and the general fitting-up was in beautiful taste and very rich. An orchestra was filled with amateurs and professors, and an appro- priate address in verse, welcoming the Queen and the Princess, and highly complimentary to 92 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the Royal Family, was read. The singing was very fine and the effect very good indeed. When the ceremony was ended, the Queen opened the ball with a burgher ; the Princess danced also with a burgher. The Prince danced with Madlle. Swan, the daughter of the greatest merchant, and the manager of the ball, etc. Dancing continued with great spirit until half-past eleven, when supper was announced. We Ministers had ladies allotted to us. I was very fortunate, for Madame de Piper was selected for me, whom I conducted to the King's table. We were opposite the Royal Family, and the conversation across the table was gay and animated. The King and all the Family spoke to me during the evening. His Majesty particularly invited Lieut. John Bloomfield, R.A., to the camp in Scania. I told the Prince that I intended to go to Copen- hagen before the formation of the troops, and hoped to return in time for all the manoeuvres with my son, to whom I meant to give a rendez- vous in Denmark. Nothing could be more kind than they all were. (I sent presents of venison and pheasants, for which I was thanked ; the latter are not found here, and were therefore the more acceptable.) MISSION TO SWEDEN. 93 The supper was very fine, and we drank the healths individually of all the Family in bumpers of champagne. This jollification gave the anti- quated English Minister courage, and he opened the ball after supper with Madlle. Swan, which my brother diplomats said was a very diplomatic compliment. We got home at half-past one. Some snow fell, and the face of the country is white. One would little think that in Stock- holm everyone was crying out for cold and snow in the month of January. I really find my bed too warm, and I sleep with one blanket only. My fire is lighted at three o'clock p.m., and about six billets of wood as large as my arm from my elbow down are sufficient in the day. Sunday, Febi'itary ist. — At my dinner the Count de Steidingk sat on my right hand. He is 79 ; the very finest old man I ever saw. He has not one of the infirmities almost inseparable from that great age ; an abundant crop of the finest silver hair, and his qualifications for society are not at all im paired. He was Russian Minister at St. Peters- burg when Lord St. Helens and Lord Whitworth were there, and was very intimate with both. Sunday, February %tL — My carriage had a 94 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S narrow escape: "Magic" kicked himself over the trace, and the old woman of a coachman lost his seat as well as his presence of mind, and hallooed as if a Swedish bear had been hugging him ; luckily Irish Pat came to his help and extricated him from his difficulty. But in all my life I never heard such cries. When he came to supper he said to my valet, ''Oh, Dugon, I'm glad to see you again," still frightened almost to death, though two hours had passed away. Saturday, February i/\tk. — The snow has con- tinued falling, and John Bloomfield says the happi- ness of everyone is quite extraordinary ; all is bright, and already they have begun driving in sledges. Mine was out to-day. Sunday, February i^th. — They tell me that the line of sledges reached for three miles (English). The appearance of all these little carriages, the ringing of bells (the horses are all covered with them, the movement of the carriage making no noise), made a very pretty and gay effect. Tttesday, February i ']th. — Whilst reading Madame de Campan's Memoirs, in the second volume I was reminded of a scene I witnessed at the procession of the Etats Gdneraux ; except from MISSION TO SWEDEN, 95 a party of us English the poor Queen Marie Antoinette's name was never once uttered ; we cheered lustily. Either Madame Campan does not give a faithful picture of the Interior, or the new light of De- mocracy had perverted every act of Her Majesty, which sentiment however would have equally extended to the King. What a state the laws of France were in at the Revolution, when such a scene of horror as the '' Collier " fraud and forgery of the Queen's name should have been left unpunished ! DESPATCH NO. 6. TO MR. CANNING. '* Stockholm, February 21, 1824. '' Sir, '' I trust I am authorised by the many urgent representations of this Government, as well as by the suggestions of the Baron Wirser, Presi- dent of the Treasury, certainly one of the most enlightened public men here, and sundry intelligent merchants, in venturing to call your attention to the advantages which would probably result to England from holding out a possibility of a duty being laid on by cubic foot, instead of by tale (the present mode), on timber from these countries. 96 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S " I confidently believe that there might be accomplished a conventional agreement, grounded on such expectations and the principle of our Reciprocity Bill, very advantageous to the introduc- tion of British manufactures and Colonial produce into Sweden. '' Though daily more convinced of the impor- tance of this object, I should not have presumed to renew such suggestions were it not for the last issued Russian Tariff, which, pressing as it does in so increased a degree on our industry and commerce, may ultimately somewhat regu- late the import of British manufactures into this country. ** For, altho' the commercial agreement between Russia and Sweden (in vigor for some years longer) for affording mutual facilities of introducing the commodities most wanted in this country and Fin- land, is certainly bound up with such precautions and mutual interests as quite prevent any but an illicit importation into Finland of British goods thro' Sweden, the considerable relaxation of Swedish duties on such goods, which must cha- racterise a new Anglo-Swedish Convention, would undoubtedly operate as a temptation to import MISSION TO SWEDEN. 97 an additional quantity of British manufactures into Sweden, if only to supply the Russian market. " That the temptation to an indirect trade is strong and general here, I have daily opportunities of knowing ; from which I infer how effectually it must operate in favor of England when forced by British enterprise, the more particularly as Russia appears to persevere in her exclusive system, and that tho' Finland has changed masters, I have strong reasons to believe, from what I can collect, that in all their feelings its people continue to be Swedish, and that its intercourse with this country has but little diminished in favor of Russia," etc., etc. Thui'sday, February 26M. — I attended the King's dinner. The Queen was indisposed, and did not dine. The company was about twenty. I sat on His Majesty's left. Nothing could exceed his con- descension. We shook hands before dinner, and he told me : '' Oscar viendra apres diner pour faire des arrangemens avec vous. Vous savez, mon General, qu'il sera chef au camp, et que moi, je lui fais visite." During dinner the King had all the dishes served to me after himself, and VOL. I. H 98 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the servants took care to keep my glass well filled with champagne. After dinner, and before coffee, the Prince arrived, came and shook hands with me, saying how glad he was to see me out again, etc., adding that we must settle our little arrange- ments for Scania. '' Mais je crois qu'il sera plus agreable de causer ensemble chez moi, et je vous propose de venir diner mardi a trois heures." Of course I bowed, saying all courteous and grateful things. The evening passed on, and His Majesty invited me to his Cabinet, where I re- mained with the Count de Wetterstedt and His Majesty for two hours. Our conversation was full of interest, upon the present state of the South American question. When I took my leave he expressed himself in the most flattering manner, on behalf of himself and the Swedish nation, adding that whatever might be the sentiments naturally entertained for the great nation which I represent, toward myself individually there was but one feeling, and that there was no in- stance of a stranger who had so completely possessed himself of the affection and esteem of the country. I really do believe that my career has so far been very successful. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 99 DESPATCH NO. 8. TO MR. CANNING. ^^ February 27, 1824. '' Sir, '' After having dined with the King yester- day, H.M. honored Count Wetterstedt and myself with a particular audience of considerable length in his private Cabinet, for the purpose of learning the contents of your Despatch and its enclosure of the 30th January, to Sir W. A. Court. French translations of these papers were read to H.M., whose deep attention to their important contents was only equalled by the rapid perspicacity with which he seized and embodied that train of argu- ment which established truths (as he was pleased to say) so mainly involving the fate and welfare of two hemispheres. *' After a masterly recapitulation of the contents of your Despatch, he professed himself deeply penetrated with the truth of the whole, speaking in the strongest terms of unreserved admiration of the frankness and liberality which characterised the document from beginning to end, and said : ' Mon General, il me rejouit de voir qu'enfin il plait a TAngleterre (pardonnez-moi le mot) de se remettre dans la place quelle peut tenir quand H 2 loo MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S roccasion le demande, et qu'elle reprend toujours quand il s'61eve des questions majeures, compre- hensives, et philanthropiques, qui embrassent le bien-etre des nations ; c'est alors qu'elle reprend le ton digne a la fois du sujet, et dune nation qui par sa sagesse, ses moyens, et son experience devrait a juste titre mener les autres Puissances de r Europe.' ■"'" " H.M. next slightly touched upon the relative situation of the two countries ; asserting that Sweden might be regarded as politically placed in the British seas ; that bounded as she is on one side by the ocean, and separated on the other by a defined line of demarcation from Russia, she seeks but repose under the protection of England." DIARY. Saturday, February 29^/2. — Going to the Palace, I arrived at the moment when the Oueen was setting out upon her morning drive ; one of the * " General, I am rejoiced to find that at last England is pleased (forgive the expression) to replace herself in the position she can hold when occasion requires it, and which she always resumes when important, comprehensive or philanthropic ques- tions arise which relate to the well-being of nations ; it is then that she assumes the tone worthy of the subject, and of a nation, which by her wisdom, her powers, and her experience should, by rights, lead the other Powers of Europe." MISSION TO SWEDEN. loi wheelers fell and they could not get him up. I jumped from my carriage and ran to the assistance of Her Majesty and her two ladies. Her Majesty was much obliged, took me by the arm and con- tinued her walk, desiring the carriage to follow. The harness was long in repairing, so we walked a good distance, to the great wonder and surprise of everyone. I was soon distinguishable from the Palace with my cordon rouge, and my other finery. In a quarter of an hour the carriage arrived, when I handed Her Majesty into it, and took my leave. She was very gracious and civil. This was made quite a sensation. I returned to the Prince, where this was all recounted, and many flat- tering remarks made upon my gallantry. H.R.H. and the Princess were very cordial and good-natured, and the dinner, etc., was excellent, much better than at the King's table. I sat next the Princess, with whom I talked English. You know I am not very glib at conversation anywhere, and I fear I must have appeared somewhat stupid. After dinner H.R. Highness took me to another room and showed me the plan of the camp, and where he intended to establish my head-quarters near to him. 102 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Friday, March ^th. — The accounts of the death of the Duke of Leuchtenberg, father of the Princess, arrived in the night. Of course all the Court is in great affliction. The King was greatly lie with Beauharnais, and the Princess was very fond indeed of her father. Sunday, March Jth, — I drove out at two in a sledge, for the first time. Nothing can be more agreeable ; it runs so smoothly and one feels no cold. Multitudes were out. There is a netting over the horses which comes back, enclosing the splash-board. This effectually shelters one from the pelting of snowballs which collect in the horses' feet, and which strike one unmercifully when going very fast. We drove over one of the 42,000 lakes, where all the world was collected. DESPATCH NO. 2 (SLAVE TRADE). TO MR. CANNING. '^Stockholm, March ii, 1824. '' Sir, ** On the 9th inst. I had a conference with the Count Wetterstedt upon the subject of your Despatch No. 2, * Slave Trade,' and I have every reason to anticipate very generally the adoption of the suggestions therein. Indeed, I feel myself MISSION TO SWEDEN. 103 justified in the expectation that H.S.M. will sanction the fulfilment of all your wishes, save the establish- ment of permanent mixed Courts. *' This point was combated very strongly by the Count upon the score of the expense which would be entailed upon this country, the finances of which can ill afford any additional burden. '' I am persuaded I shall obtain H.S.M. accord- ance to Sierra Leone as one of the stations where offenders (Swedish subjects) shall be brought to trial, but as such cases are, in their opinion, expected to occur very rarely, M. de Wetterstedt expressed a sanguine hope that the original proposition upon this point would satisfy you, namely, that the Courts in question should only be assembled as the cases of delinquency might arise. '* It is my duty to observe that in the course of this long conference the utmost desire was expressed by Count Wetterstedt in H.S.M.'s name, and in the name of the Swedish Government, to conform in all that might be practicable, not only to this, but to the general policy of England. Indeed, such has been the manifest feeling of this Govern- ment ever since my residence at Stockholm," etc., etc. I04 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S DESPATCH NO. 10. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, March 13, 1824. " Sir, '' M. de Schultzenheim, the Foreign Secre- tary, called on me, according to his own proposition, this morning, for the avowed purpose of conversing with me on the commercial relations of the two countries. He first intimated that his opinions were those of Count Engestrom and Count Wetterstedt and most of the influential Privy Councillors, and said that anxiously as Sweden desired an immediate Commercial Treaty with England, the chief impedi- Dient, the Pi^oduct Placat, nearly amounting to our Navigation Act, could not be removed before a few months, but that the King intended to accede, pos- sibly in the course of the summer, to a late recom- mendation 'of the Diet for its abolition, .and that in the interim it might partly answer the object of England, in the manner least dangerous to Sweden, to accept for the moment, on principles of reciprocity, certain gradual relaxations in favor of British commerce which Sw^eden was prepared to offer, in d-cornpte of the treaty desired. '' To explain these relaxations I should state that the Product Placat forbids ships of any country MISSION TO SWEDEN. 105 to import^ on any condition whateve7% into Sweden p7'oducts other than those of their own country ; and exacts on all such produce so imported into Sweden by Swedish vessels. '' This 50 per cent., M. Schukzenheim informed me, this Government was inclined to cede for an equivalent in British ports. I suppose he alluded to the duty on deals, always uppermost in the mind of his Cabinet, and which it loses no opportunity of urging as one of its principal objects. '' I distinctly and repeatedly pressed the justice and expediency of in any case effecting, as a condition for future proceedings, treaties so long neglected by placing England virtually as well as nominally on the same commercial footing as the most favored nations, instancing America and the cession, to her in 18 18 by treaty of certain advan- tages which England does not enjoy. M. de Schukzenheim could give me no detailed opinion on the point as specially regarding America, but repeated the strong wish of this Government to effect the Treaty of Orebro. '' Notwithstanding what I have said about an equivalent to be demanded for the 50 per cent, imposed by the Product Placat, it would appear io6 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S from the prospective clause in the Orebro Treaty, that England has a right to demand the above relation without equivalent, as the Treaty with America of 1818 not only remits to that country the 50 per cent., but supersedes in her favor the whole of the Product Placat, The above-mentioned clause in the Orebro Treaty also applies to the onerous regulations of the Diving Company as far as they affect England ; regulations which, as you are already informed, have been relaxed in favor of America by her last treaty, and place her flag on the same footing as that of Sweden. '' On the subject of these oppressive regulations M. de Schultzenheim could give me no positive information, but I distinctly urged the promise of this Cabinet, made last August, that they should positively be relaxed in favor of England when the hurry of the Diet should afford the King a moment of leisure. '' M. de Schultzenheim cited the simple but con- vincing fact, that though for some years past Nor- way has annually diminished her Custom Dues, her imports have annually increased ; and although Sweden has for the same period annually increased her dues, her imports have as regularly so much MISSION TO SWEDEN. 107 diminished that the Custom Dues of one late quarter at Gottenburg did not pay the estabhshment. *' Another indulgence allowed to America is, that cargoes, not mixed, but wholly West Indian pro- duce, are permitted professedly for a year longer to be imported, contrary to treaty, into Sweden, at the same rate as in Swedish vessels. '' M. de Schultzenheim said in explanation of this apparent infraction, that the object of the Treaty of 1 8 18, in stipulating that American vessels do import only American produce into Sweden, is to prevent American ships from taking up cargoes in the West Indies and thence proceeding to Sweden ; but that the West Indian produce now habitually admitted, being only such as has been by chance in America, and comes from thence direct to Sweden in Ame- rican vessels, the Government thinks the case admits of a lenient construction as hardly falling under the category of the Treaty," etc., etc. DIARY. Tuesday, March i6tk. — I prepared for my ball. I never was more nervous than on beholding the multitudes which crowded in at eight o'clock. However, the Swedes are really so good-humoured that over-anxiety is soon relieved. The Court being io8 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S in mourning I dared not announce a dance, and began with a song, arranged my salon C07n77ie pour la miisique^ but the one song over, viohns were introduced and merry - making began im- promptu, so that I satisfied the Court and pleased my company. Nothing could have been gayer in spite of black gowns ; we supped at twelve, and before two all was quiet. We danced after supper. I understand all my guests were pleased and gratified. Sunday, March 21st, — Dressed at seven to go to General Suchetelen's party. Two comedies were performed admirably: "Shakespeare Amoureux " and '' Defiance et Malice." In the first Madame Montgomery, Madame Lagerbjelke, and Mons. Bodisco. Never did I see more beautiful acting ; Shakespeare rather ranted, but the ladies were perfect. In the second, Madame Vanbuinnan and Mons. le Comte Lovenhjelem were also admirable. The theatre was got up exceedingly well, and after- wards we had a little music with a big supper. In bed at twelve after an amusing evening, though dear Harriett will be of my opinion, that upon any other day rather than the Sabbath such pastimes would have been more appropriate. MISSION TO SWEDEN, 109 DESPATCH NO. II. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, March 19, 1824. " Sir, " Having been summoned this morning to the Cabinet by Count Engestrom, the following conversation took place between us : ** The Count said it was very desirable that he should confer with me, on the mutual object of establishing a freer commercial intercourse between Sweden and England, and that he was prepared to state what he conceived, at present, practicable. '' He said that Sweden, whatever she might ultimately intend, could not, without much danger, o suddenly reverse her commercial system as to meet at once, by corresponding relaxations, the English Act of Parliament of last July; but that she was ready, for the present, at once and uncon- ditionally, to go the length of equalising for British and Swedish vessels in Swedish ports, the Pilotage, Light Money, Beacon Money, and Tonnage Dues ; and willing, for an equivalent, to liberate England from the Product Placat, and thereby permit British vessels to import into Swedish ports such English products and manufactures as are import- able in Swedish vessels, on payment of the same no MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S duties as are paid by the flag of Sweden. The enclosed Memorandum — then deHvered to me by the Count — alludes to the last-mentioned proposal, but excepts from the arrangement vessels of the British Colonies. '' I pressed upon the Count that he gave but a very limited operation to a principle of reciprocity so frankly acknowledged as the Swedish object, for in fact, according to treaties, that principle ought to have been for eight years past the standard of the international commercial intercourse ; that during the last two years Swedish vessels had enjoyed in English ports an equal footing with the British flag as to Pilotage, Light Money, and Port Dues, which rendered similar concessions in Swedish ports an act of simple common justice ; and that the Treaties of Orebro and Upsala stipulated for English vessels in Swedish ports the same privi- leges as had then been, or should hereafter be, conceded to vessels of the most favored nations. Strange to say the Count did not admit the pro- spective interpretation above mentioned, which, as the P7^oditct Placat has been superseded by treaty in favor of America, would in the apprehension of the Count ruin Sweden by suddenly inundating MISSION TO SWEDEN. iii the country with British manufactures, to which the Count could, as he said, with great difficulty ever consent to be a party, though inch'ned to the anti- prohibitive system as strongly as any Privy Coun- cillor, perhaps more so than any Swede, except Baron Wirser. '' I replied that was a question of pure Swedish commercial policy, which I could not, as the inter- preter of treaties, admit as forming an item in the account ; that the Orebro Treaty being admitted, the American Treaty becomes virtually that at present in force between Sweden and England, that it superseded the Product Placat, and thereby admitted certain English manufactures in Swedish ports in English vessels, on payment of the same duties as if imported in Swedish vessels. This somewhat startled the Count, and he was addi- tionally surprised when I said I had learned that besides the produce of America, which her treaty admits. West India produce is certainly, in direct contradiction of it, imported into Sweden in American vessels. The Count did not deny the fact, but confined himself to asserting that it was consequent (as he was pleased to say) on a private arrangement. This so-called private arrange7nent^ 1 12 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S or rather real mfracti07i, was explained to me in my conversation with M. de Schultzenheim of the 13th, as reported in my No. 10. *' On my alluding to the promise of this Cabinet made last August, to relax in favor of English vessels the oppressive regulations of the Diving Company, on the ground of American vessels having been placed by treaty on the same footing, quoad the Company, as Swedish ; the Count at first said no nation could better than England appreciate, or yield to the strong motives of public faith, which dictated the observance of the Company's charter till 1827, the year of its expiration; that the King has not the power to deviate from the charter in a single particular, and that no Privy Councillor would venture to recommend it. He next even denied the fact of the regulations having been relaxed in favor of America, to which I, reasserting the fact, replied that highly as all must respect the purity of Swedish good faith in connection with the salvage regulations, I could only regard such motives as foreign to British cognizance, and could not entertain them as of any real weight, much less admit them as invalidating England's claim to the promised relaxations. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 113 '' Feeling the strongest conviction that some immediate modification is essential of the exactions which have so long and unjustly weighed down British commerce in these ports, I urged to the Count in unmeasured terms the necessity at this opening season of the Baltic of issuing some Royal authorisation forthwith, to relieve, in part, the trade of England from the unjust oppression it has laboured under for eight years. I feel myself justi- fied in reporting that these claims were not perti- naciously resisted," etc., etc. DIARY. Tuesday, March 2yd. — In the evening I went first to Madame Shon, and afterwards to Madame de Wetterstedt's, where the ceremony of a be- trothal was gone through. The Count Otrante, Fouche's son, was the Jianc^, and Madlle. de Paemstjerna la fiancde. They exchanged rings, and in more or less time they will be married. We were the only foreigners admitted. There was a gay dance and supper. Madame de Piper, sister of Madame Wetterstedt and a great friend of mine, was there, and also her two husbands. By her first she had two children, who were there, and the whole party, including the two husbands, VOL. I. ^ 114 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S seemed cordial friends. The question of divorce goes for nothing, save the privilege of getting either a new husband or wife, as the case may be. DESPATCH NO. 1 3. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, April isfj 1824. '' Sir, '' Monsieur de Schultzenheim, Foreign Sec'y, aware of my anxiety to transmit you the latest information on Anglo-Swedish commerce, has this instant called on me to report the result of his late exertions in our favor. ** He this morning submitted his Report on the list of commercial grievances (mentioned in my Despatch No. 12) to the Privy Council, assembled preparatory to their meeting the King to-morrow, and has just informed me, in the plainest manner, that all the minor points of the list were unanimously accorded without scruple ; that British vessels importing British produce into Swedish ports will be immediately liberated from the 40 per cent, at present paid by them more than by Swedish vessels importing the same, and that as to such produce British vessels will be in future treated in Swedish ports as Swedish ; also the difference mentioned in my Mem"" of nearly MISSION TO SWEDEN. 115 100 per cent, between the export duties for Swedish goods paid by English and Swedish vessels, will be done away with. '* M. de Schultzenheim said he came to enable me to make up my present despatches, and that subsequently to the Council of to-morrow I should be summoned to the Cabinet, to receive from Comte Engestrom (in time for this post) a Note indicative of the result of the said Council, and a detailed Mem"" of the Swedish wishes, decisions, and opinions. '' M. de Schultzenheim stated, that if I was em- powered to give in a Note admitting the Swedes to the same reciprocal privileges in the British ports as they were about to grant to us in theirs, the whole might be concluded immediately. ** He repeated that our Colonial vessels were (apparently with reason) not included in the above arrangement, because Swedish vessels are not per- mitted to visit the Colonies ; but from the moment they were permitted, Sweden would instantly extend the arrangements to our Colonial vessels. '' I cannot do justice to the cordiality with which the Cabinet has treated the question, to their alacrity throughout this affair, nor to the marked I 2 ii6 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S ejnpressement with which they have met your wishes and the claims of justice," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 4 (SLAVE TRADE). TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, April Zth, 1824. " Sir, '' I was summoned to the Cabinet this morn- ing by Comte d'Engestrom, when H.E. ordered M. de Schultzenheim to read to me the Swedish Project of the Slave Trade Treaty, grounded on your Slave Trade Despatch marked N, of loth February, 1824. As to the introduction of the words loix pdnales, I have still to inform you, not- withstanding Comte Wetterstedt's and my own views as detailed in my Nos. 2 and 3 (Slave Trade, 1824), that the opinion of Comte Gyllenborg, Minister of Justice, is so decided on the Royal inability, according to the Constitntion, to make any penal laws whatever during the hiterval between the Diets, that the insertion of those words as pledging the King to the im7nediate execution of such laws is hopeless ; but the new Project purports, in lieu thereof, to engage that H.S.M. shall, at the next Diet, propose the enactment of fully ade- quate /^;^^/ /^e£/^ for the prevention of slave-dealing. ''The only remaining point of importance is MISSION TO SWEDEN, 117 that which presents the most difficulty in the eyes of this Cabinet, viz., the mixed Courts. The Swedish Cabinet admitted Sierra Leone as a suitable posi- tion for the tribunals, and proposed {vide my No. 2, Slave Trade, 1824) that to avoid the expense of a permanent Swedish judge and arbiter, some judge on the spot (for instance, the Dutch or any other not of the country of the opposite party) should, as the case occurred, undertake for occasional remunera- tion, in concert with the English judge, the adjudi- cation of the Swedish prizes ; but this course, tho' at first deemed eligible by Comte Wetterstedt, is now positively set aside by this Cabinet in such a manner as to prevent them from admitting Sierra Leone as a station, for Count Gyllenborg, the Minister of Justice, declares that judgment passed on a Swede by a foreigner, without appeal, is irremediably incompatible with the spirit of Swedish legislation. '' I in vain urged my own, and Comte Wetter- stedt's lately announced opinion, that the local pecu- liarity of the case rescued it from that predicament, and Sierra Leone being thus rejected by Sweden in consequence of the inevitably large salary to a Swede for doing nothing there, I mention with ii8 LORD BLOOMFIELD'S MISSION TO SWEDEN, hesitation the proposal which I have discouraged to the utmost of Tangier's (where the Swedish Consul and Secretary might perform the duties of judge and arbiter) as the station of the African mixed Court, Sweden still leaving the Court in the West Indies as the subject of future arrangement. I in vain stated the remoteness of Tangiers from the usual route of the slave-ships, and the improbability of your consenting to it, when the Count urged that as the case of capture was next to impossible, the distance would be remedied by the stipulations proposed, that one of the stations should be Tangiers^ or any other p07^t to be subsequently agreed upon ; which arrangement would admit, if capture ever did occur, of a judge being sent by Sweden to Sierra Leone, while the Swedish Consul was p7'o for^md entitled judge. The Swedish proclamation, dated 7th February, 1823, which denationalises slave ships carrying Swedish or Norwegian colours, will be, at my request, formally annexed to the Treaty, to supply in part the place of immediate penal laws/' etc., etc. CHAPTER IV. Tableaux Vivants — Salle des Nobles — Anecdote of Marie An- toinette — Great Ball to the King and Queen of Sweden — Dinner at Court — The King tells of his having been appointed by Napoleon to command the French Invasion of Ireland — Celebration of May Day at Stockholm— Visit to M. de Wharrendorf. Thursday, April Wi. — After dinner I went to the representations of tableaux vivants at Madame Montgomery's. I never yet have seen anything so interesting. Holmes was admirable in Molckadel, and all the representations were perfect. Madame de Tarrach, in the convent scene, was beautiful, and motionless as death, as was Holmes ; her combat between love and duty was admirably pourtrayed, and Holmes was not less admirable in the expression of his one passion. The second tableau, the Holy Family, by Raphael, was quite affecting, the three children as angels touching, and it was wonderful how the. little things kept themselves so perfectly I20 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S motionless. Madame Orosco, as St. Catherine, was perfect ; Madame Montgomery, Mother of Jesus ; Miss Montgomery represented an angel holding a bouquet of flowers, threw herself very forward ; Monsr. Cartoni, St. Joseph. The whole effect of the drapery and the strong light thrown upon the picture, made a wonderful and peculiarly touching scene. We spectators being in the dark, the effect was the more striking. The third ex- hibition was St. Cecile. The female figure (Madame Montgomery) was playing on a harp, and a child holding the music, both figures admirable and the little child beautiful ; Madame Montgomery, after some minutes of exhibition, was accompanied by a flute and sang a delicious air. She was surrounded by musical instruments, and the flute sounding as from afar, the effect was charming. In short, the whole thing was admirably got up, and was new to me, but this sort of exhibition is not uncommon in Vienna, Munich, and in Germany. The company was delighted, and after complimenting the per- formers we collected at card tables, and in little circles of conversation, etc. Supper was served. Swedish houses are kept so hot that sometimes I'm half dead with fatigue from heat. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 121 SahL7^day, April lotk. — I dressed and dined with the Baron de Geer at the Societe, a merry tavern dinner of twenty. I never heard such a noise from talking. They drank my health as a stranger '' qui voyait la Suede toujours du bon cote," an observation which they said had been lately made by the King, and which was the feeling of all the society. Sujiday, April nth. — I rode to Ritterspick, a distance of two Swedish miles (nearly fourteen English). The house and situation for summer beautiful, upon the Lake Mahler. The accom- modation is very good, a fine garden and park, and water communication from Stockholm ; all these advantages will, I think, induce me to take it for next year ; no one remains in town, indeed in the hot season it is hardly endurable. Mo7tday, April 12th. — Had a lady dinner-party at half-past three ; we were very merry, and they remained until eight, quite an unusual thing. Re- collecting that the 13th unfortunately was at hand, I proposed to them to honor me again to-morrow, the occasion being one which I hoped might justify, or at least plead my excuse for such a liberty. They all were delighted and good-humoured to a degree 122 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and when I ordered in the maUre d' hotel, I added that the servants should have a supper for their share of the evening ; when Monsieur and Madame Tarrach proposed the adjournment of the party chez eux, which was agreed, and thus disposed of the Minister's birthday. You never saw more good-humour, even in Ireland, or less ceremony. Tuesday, April i^tJi. — I gave a dinner to some friends, who cordially drank my health, and the com- pany adjourned to Madame Tarrach's, who had also a l^arty for the occasion. I assure you that I felt as if I was surrounded by my oldest companions and friends. Friday, April i6tk. — I went to the Oratorio, the music not very fine. The King and Queen were there. It was held in the Salle des Nobles, which is a magnificent room, I guess 70 feet long by 40. The walls were all covered with the arms of each noble, upon a black ground which gives a gloom to the apartment, though fitting it admirably for its ostensible use. The President's chair is placed under the arms of Vasa, a proud period for this country. This year I expect to see the house where he lay concealed ; it is still inhabited, and the bed in which he slept is preserved, and the hole through which he escaped is in statu quo. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 123 Sunday, April 18M. — I found the Count de la Gardie waiting for me, in consequence of some conversation he had had with the King: and Oueen expressive of their desire to honor my ball on the 23rd with their presence. Of course I expressed my gratitude, and how proud I should be, etc. So in the morning I shall go to invite their Majesties. The honor is very particular and unusual, and I shall endeavour to do my best to pay them most marked attention in all that may be in my power. I shall have them and the Princess Albertine, the last of the Vasa line, a fine old lady. I am, how- ever, rather in a fuss, as you will conceive without my saying so. Luckily my maitre cTkdtel is a master of his craft. Tuesday, April 2otk. — Dressed at four, and drove to Rosendhall, a very pretty pavilion in the Park. We had a very agreeable party, and the King and Queen were remarkably civil to me. I sat next to Her Majesty. We were very merry, and walked out in the evening. The King kept me in a very long and interesting conversation until near nine o'clock. He tells anecdotes of himself with great good-humour and good taste ; never conceals his origin and the causes and effects which 124 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S he considers led to his elevation. His Majesty said, in the course of our conversation : '' Mon General, quoique votre caractere vous eut devance, je me felicite encore davantage d'avoir un Stranger aupres de moi qui regarde tout dans le pays du bon cote, et qui est si aimable de se contenter des efforts aupres de lui de la part d'un si pauvre peuple."''^* Thursday, Ap7Hl 22nd. — I breakfasted in my room, to read the Debates without interruption. I see poor Nash is sadly and unjustly handled. The taste of the Pavilion was not originated by him. He obeyed, and tried to make the mass less crowded, but the King preferred the more com- plicated design. The new street may have defects in its occasional architecture, but the scheme and the great sewer ought to gain for the poor little man great public applause and the gratitude of those who reside in that quarter of the town. I dressed in the Artillery uniform to dine with General Bjornstjirna. A great dinner. Mad""^ B. * *' General, although the reputation of your character pre- ceded your arrival, I congratulate myself still more at having a stranger near me who sees everything in this country in a favour- able light, and who is good enough to be satisfied with the efforts of such poor people to please him." MISSION TO SWEDEN, 125 dined, and her respectable old father, the Count Steedink. He is near eighty years of age, and possesses all his faculties. We having been com- rades in the American war, and conversing upon the events of those days, he related the following interesting anecdote. He was in the service of France. Before the return of the Count to Europe, Washington established an order, with which he decorated the Count. The King of Sweden wrote a letter of six pages expressing his disapproval of his acceptance, assigning his reasons, that the cause in which he was engaged, and had served, was one of rebellion against the authority of a legitimate Sovereign, and that he could not countenance such proceedings by allowing one of his subjects to have apparently aided such a revolt, etc., reasoning at great length in that way. The Count, upon his return, went to Court at Versailles. Not appearing in the American decoration, the Queen (Marie Antoinette) reproached him for not doing so. The Count explained his reasons, offering to show Her Majesty the letter, and on the next occasion he did so. Her Majesty kept it two days, and, on returning it, she told the Count that the King had read it. Neither the King nor Queen denied the 126 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S principle, but disagreed with the King of Sweden in the application of it. How little did those unfortunate monarchs foresee that the very measure which they considered the wisest and the proudest of their reign should be that which led to their overthrow and execution ! Friday, April 2'^rd. — The house preparing for the ball and the reception of the Royal Family, etc. I went to the Cabinet at twelve, settled everything connected with our commerce to my fullest satis- faction. The day more than beautiful. The house looks quite delightful, and I just learn that the Kinof comes in shoes and stockino^s for the first time since he is in Sweden. I dressed for the ball in fear and trembling at the immense numbers that were coming ; at half-past seven they began to arrive, and at half-past eight the Royal Family and the Court approached. I had placed my videttes so as not to be surprised, and my suite awaited the Royal coach at the door, all the livery- servants and the Mission with two candles each ; the stairs were covered with red. Nothing could be more civil or gracious than the King and Queen. They insisted upon my putting down my lights and taking the Queen's hand ; the procession mounted MISSION TO SWEDEN. 127 In excellent order, and upon entering the salo7t the music played the national air of Sweden ; the Queen was placed in an arm-chair and had a foot- stool, His Majesty on her right hand. I offered tea, etc., and their Majesties then ordered that I should take no more notice of them, that the Queen would dance with me whenever my company was prepared to begin. Of course the band soon played une anglaise, and as soon as the ladies were in the rank, I conducted Her Majesty to the head of the room, and the battle raged, with the exception of supper, until four o'clock. Bright daylight ! Nothing could be more gay, and the good-humor of every- one soon relieved all my apprehensions for room. The floor was chalked with appropriate designs : the British Crown with '' G. R. IV.," and supported in the usual manner ; the arms of England and Sweden at the foot of the compartment, with guns, etc., in honor of my profession ; and a Harp in one corner, emblematic of my country, the Rose, Thistle, and Shamrock entwining the whole shield. The King's picture was in the centre of the wall. In a smaller adjoining salon ^ where the floor was like- wise chalked, they also danced, the band being divided between " both rooms at the door- way. 128 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Everyone seemed delighted and pleased, and at last I was pleased myself. The supper-table for the Royal Family was very handsome ; at the head were seated the King and Queen, on the plateau was an appropriate patisserie, with the Swedish crown, the initials of the King, and the flags of England and Sweden ; at the other end there was a piece representing our King, both admirably -executed by Waler. Behind the King and Queen a large drapery of Swedish and British flags and spears, and the Swedish crown, etc., which covered the entire end of the room ; a fine buffet of gold plate filled the left of the room. This arrangement pleased and surprised the company. There were just enough places for all the ladies ; the gentle- men supped upstairs and consumed a quantity of champagne. I was quite overpowered with the expressions of thanks, etc. About two the Royal Family retired, and were conducted to the carriages in the same order. All agreed that there never was such a fine and well-managed fete given by anyone at Stockholm. At four I got to bed, delighted and pleased with my evening in every way, believing that no guest escaped my attention in the course of the evening. CHAPTER V. Visit to Colonel Montgomery's— Gioksholm— A Bostilla — Norkoping — Carlscrona — Visit to the Governor's — The Canute Society — Copenhagen — Audience of the King Frederic VI.— Picture Gallery— King's Stables— The Royal Palace — Fredericsburg— Elsineur— Camp of Scania. Saturday, May Ztk — We were called at three o'clock — a gray, promising morning — breakfasted at four, when we intended to set off, but for the first time the horses were not ready. However, some arrived, and Wharrendorf sent one carriage off with his own. We proceeded to Erkelstuna, where we had an excellent breakfast at ten o'tlock — tea, coffee, fresh eggs, bread and butter, and a magnificent blackcock. While this was preparing we went to the great shop where the steel work is manufactured ; bought some little things which accompany this packet. Proceeded on our journey ; passed some fine country houses, lakes, forests, and rocks, some beautifully romantic situations, VOL. I. L 146 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and some delicious views. Dined at three o'clock upon eggs and whatever else they had, which we devoured. We continued our journey, and reached Colonel Montgomery's at seven o'clock for tea. The house is beautifully situated, close to a fine lake studded with innumerable islands covered with wood. The apartments are extremely handsome, a plein pied, except the centre, which is two storeys high. I am delightfully lodged : one of the draw- ing-rooms opens into my writing-room, which is very pretty ; then my bedroom, and then my valet's, all looking to the lake. There are six pavilions for the convenience of the house — young men lodging there, etc. — a fine billiard-table over the water, and I understand the pleasure-grounds are extensive. Smiday, May ()tk. — A beautiful morning. We breakfasted at nine, and then walked out a little at ten. Went over the house with Monsieur and Madame M. The cleanliness and distribution are charming ; nothing could be more convenient. We, since the last stage, have been in the parish of Vinocre, where the peasants are so well and so becomingly dressed, the men and women in white, with black collars and cuffs, a strong thick cloth, MISSION TO SWEDEN, 147 admirably calculated for the climate. The women's petticoats are yellow and short, displaying good worsted stockings and shoes with buckles. I walked out for an hour with the ladies. The flowers are not yet come out, but the whole place is, I fancy, covered with roses. There were several pleasure- boats lying under the windows, but the wind was N.E., and we thought the exercise of quick walking preferable. I dressed at half-past one to dine at two. Played at all sorts of games, had music, tea, and supper, and went to bed at half-past ten. There is a charming morning working-room for the ladies overlooking the lake, with a balcony. It is in the centre of the house, and there was a most extensive view from the balcony. Monday, May lotk, — A sharp wind and bright sun. Breakfasted at nine. Had a game of romps with the children. Walked out and saw all the gardens, the horses, the brandy distillery, and the kennels. An arrival of four officers of the regi- ment at Orebro. They dined and slept. The system of hospitality seems quite Irish. Some showers of hail have fallen — not violent. A family of the neighbourhood arrived for tea. Played at round games and had some music. L 2 148 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S ThtL7''sday, May I'^th. — I breakfasted at ten, and set out immediately to visit some lions in the neighbourhood ; the day very promising. I saw a pretty place of the late Baron Rehausen's (long Swedish Minister in London). The accommo- dation in every house is astonishing for sleeping company, such nice iron bedsteads, and so clean. I observed that when the apartments are not occu- pied the bedding is placed upon a sort of open frame in the middle of the room, so that the air surrounds every part. This is an admirable arrangement. The house is famous in Swedish history and is called Gioksholm : in the fifteenth century it was possessed by a family called '' Natt- och-dag " (Night-and-Day), partisans in those times of the Danes. A great chieftain, Engelbrecht, roused the country to assert its independence and to exterminate the Danes, besieged '* Natt-och-dag " in this house, and banished the family ; three years afterwards Engelbrecht, on his way to Stockholm by water, was taken ill, and landed upon an island near the scene of his former triumph, where the family of Natt-och-dag, who still existed, contrived to have him murdered by cleaving his head in two with a hatchet. Baron Rehausen raised a monu- MISSION TO SWEDEN. i^c, ment in iron to the memory of this gallant chieftain, lover of his country, and my friend Akerjilm (the Baron) has written a tragedy upon the events con- nected with this man's later history. The day was very fine, the country not pretty ; passed a Bostilla, the property of a General of Division. This is a terre belonging to the Crown, and is the mode by which their officers are paid. It is, I understand, worth ;^6oo a year, a great sum in this country. Saturday, May i ^tL — Walked with the Colonel, who was obliged to go to Nebro for some military business. We all returned and made an inspection of the habitations. The steward has a very nice house. His dinner was about to be served, nice napkins and his regular snaps before dinner, all prepared stcr la table de cotd. I have already explained the custom of taking brandy before dinner, with some cheese or Dutch herrings — ^merely a drop. The brandy is always that of the country very weak. Went to the gardener's, where all was cleanliness itself, a dresser furnished with utensils as bright . as silver. Walked round the garden and pleasure-grounds, very pretty, and there appears a great prospect of fruit and flowers. I never saw the beds of any garden so well filled. ISO MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S The earth is pulverised as fine as tooth-powder. Courier from Stockholm arrived. May ijtk, — We drove to General Boye, who lives at a Bostilla, the first I had seen. A Bostilla is the residence of officers, granted by the Crown in lieu of pay. Each officer has one suited to his rank. General Boye was a Lieutenant-General, and I understood his estate was worth ;^6oo per annum. The premises are kept in repair by the Crown. , The house was very good, and the place pretty enough. The General's wife ' received us, the General being in Stockholm. May igtk, — There was a heavy fall of snow at least three inches in thickness upon the road we travelled. It rested upon the green trees and the luxuriant corn, which had a novel effect. Our journey was one of co7itreteinps, but we arrived at last at Count Piper's magnificent and hospitable mansion. The second stage we missed our road, and it was a mere chance that we made the dis- covery, as we always trusted the bonde or peasant who accompanied us. Unfortunately ours was a young lad who knew no road in the neighbour- hood, and as we passed a finger-post I saw a strange name written upon it. In order to get MISSION TO SWEDEN, 151 back we had to cross some bad roads, rendered worse by the heavy snow, and our horses were so tired they could scarcely drag the carriage, so the coachman mounted one of the little nags, and galloped off for the ordered steeds, which were brought to us, and we renewed operations after a delay of three hours. In this country horses ordered only wait an hour ; after that, for every hour the traveller is detained he pays twelve skillings for each horse (the fourth part of thirteen- pence English). This is the tax to which you are subjected in case of accident or caprice ; but, on the other hand, horses never fail you. The country was very romantic in these parts. We again passed the beautiful village of Vinocre and Count de Bonde's fine country-seat. At Werta they gave us runaway horses, which went full gallop down every hill, and unluckily at the bottom of one was a gate closed. The coachman did his utmost to rein in, but impossible. The horses took the gate, and all that happened was a broken bar or two and, I suppose, a heartache or two for the poor nags, as they came plump against the barriers. It really was rather alarming, but by dint of con- stant travelling and galloping down all the hills, 152 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S one gets accustomed to it. All the coachman ever pretends to do is to keep the horses straight, and ''all's well that ends well;" but our perils were not over yet. We reached Mala, the stage before Norkoping, where there is a magnificent view across the lake to this splendid place. After changing horses we descended a hill with another abominable gate, which the horses again charged. Unfortunately the near horse swerved, and, striking against a projecting catch, gave himself a terrible wound, which bled profusely ; but, being close to the post, we got another horse and proceeded, reached Norkoping safely, and arrived at this very fine place at half-past nine, where the master. Count Piper, received us at the door with all the hospitality and welcome of my country (Ireland). The children, whom I am very fond of, were kept up for me. Mad. de Piper is sister to Mad. de Wetterstedt, and a very fine woman. May 2oth. — Had an excellent night, and a real Scotch breakfast. The house so clean, and my apartment delicious. Nothing could be finer than the view over the lake. One enters by fine iron gates and a great courtyard ; the house opposite, with two considerable wings and beautiful pleasure- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 153 grounds. In the evening we drove to see the gigantic work of the canal which connects Gothe- burg with Norkoping, and which passes about three miles from hence. The country beautiful, well cultivated, and a fine river meandering through a picturesque valley. We drove by the canal, and back through woods and pretty scenery, but the weather was cold and disagreeable. May 2ist. — After despatching my courier to Stockholm, I walked with Mad. de Piper through the grounds, which are most romantic and very extensive ; all well kept by the peasants. The situation is bold. The house, perched upon the highest rock in the neighbourhood, is very large. The great lake empties itself into the Baltic at Norkoping. The passage is narrow, and so inter- cepted by rocks, with a rapid descent — almost a fall — that the scene was imposing. The mills are placed upon this rapid, and Norkoping is the great cloth manufactory of Sweden ; the numerous immense wheels turned by the rapid greatly augment the beauty of the scene. I scarcely remember any more picturesque. We went to an estate of Madame de Piper's upon a beautiful part of the river about a mile above the inn, and 154 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S there, too, the stream was rocky and rapid, imme- diately opposite the windows. May 227id. — We breakfasted at 6.30, and started, our carriage laden with all sorts of good things. The weather very fine, and nothing could be more beautifully romantic than the whole of our journey of ninety miles — lakes, rocks, forests, valleys, and very considerable hills. We drove along the shore of the lake, and on the opposite side there were the most stupendous perpendicular rocks ; and what astonished me was the growth of large fir- trees out of rocks where there does not seem to be a particle of earth. We passed some nice villages, and found the country well cultivated, promising abundant crops, and quantities of hops above ground. We dined at a small place — excel- lent eggs and potatoes and a fine blackcock — and arrived safe at our station for the night. May 2yd, — We breakfasted at half-past five, and our bill for beds, suppers, and breakfasts, four masters and three servants, was seven shillines all included. We dined at Pascallavick, situated on the Baltic, a very nice place, where we had excellent salmon, fresh and smoked, and abundance of eggs, bread and butter, coffee and brandy, for three MISSION TO SWEDEN. 155 shillings, so that travelling in Sweden is not expen- sive. The journey was not interesting, and we arrived at Kalmar at half-past nine. This was the last place held by the Danes, and there are the ruins of a very old castle with four round towers. A new fortification has been constructed, and there were many vessels in the port and some little stir. The trade is chiefly confined to wood and fish. There is a very fine cathedral, but terribly dilapidated without and within. The Governor of the Province (Smoland) resides here, and is well lodged. We calculated that the ramparts of the modern works were about two miles round, and were probably constructed a good while before the time of Vauban. May 2/\th, — The old castle so long maintained by Margaret'" was built in 900 — a large centre building surrounded by a square, and at each angle of which there is a round tower. The castle is now used as a prison. (Kalmar is also celebrated as the place where the deputies of Sweden, Den- mark, and Norway were appointed • to assemble for the election of a king, according to the union of Kalmar in 1395.) The newer work was built in 1600, and the cathedral in 1660, in the reign of * Commonly called the Semiramis of the North. 156 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Charles XI. There is an old town outside, said to have been originally built in 300. There is some trade, and the largest manufactory of sugar- baking is also here. The population about 600. We started for Carlscrona, the rain falling heavily. The face of the country changed — fine flat grass-lands, large trees of oak and elm, and some nice rivers. About half-way I had the delight of meeting my courier. How anxiously I opened my letters, hoping that the Drawing Room was well over, not that I doubt the kindness of the King when he sees you and one of those dear children that he so often caressed. I have not yet heard of our dear boy, but am making arrangements to reach Copenhagen the day after to-morrow. We arrived at Carlscrona at six p.m., and walked about the town after dinner. The part of the town we saw was miserable. The place appears to be upon an island, for a bridge is defended by a work. The Admiral, immediately upon my arrival, sent to know when he should attend me, and one of his staff is in waiting. May 2^th, — I had an excellent bed, and the day was beautiful. I paid visits to the Commander- in-Chief, the Governor, and the Admiral in the MISSION TO SWEDEN. 157 dockyard. Went all over the establishment, which is small ; but there are magnificent docks, one cut out of the solid rock, without any mason-work. The Admiral and all his officers attended me. Many of the latter had been in our service, and all spoke English surprisingly well. There were about ten ships of the line and as many frigates that might be ready equipped for service in three weeks. The Admiral and his A.D.C. dined with me, and there was an evening party. May 30/^. — Breakfasted at six, and started at half-past. We have almost taken leave of the fir- trees, and here there is a nice sprinkling of oak and elm. At the village of Lyckeby we passed a beautiful waterfall, which turned several mills. I suppose it may have been about 200 feet in heio-ht, and the body of water sufficient to produce a fine effect, as the rocks divided the water in various directions. The village was very pretty. These last two days we have seen fewer lakes and many more rivers, also fewer rocks, though still enough for picturesque beauty. We passed a regi- ment on its march to the camp ; dined at Carls- hausen, a very nice town and seaport. The inn was kept by a Hanoverian, who gave me an excel- 158 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S lent dinner. We inquired why he had emigrated, and he told us that when Napoleon occupied his country he was enrolled to go to Russia, and after marching for five days he disguised himself in woman's clothes and got away to Hamburg, and fearing to return to his home, he came to Sweden, married a Swede, and established himself at Carls- haven. Our journey to Christianstad afforded nothing of interest, excepting that it happens to be the headquarters of a regiment of Artillery, which we saw at exercise near the town. It is an old fortification gone much to decay, and seems duller than any place we have yet seen. Our journey was performed to-day at ten miles an hour ; to-morrow we hope to cross to Copenhagen from Malmo. How my heart beats as I approach the place where I hope to find our dear boy ! May lytL — Started at six, filled with the hope of getting across in the evening. Nothing of any sort occurred except our charging a new gate, which we forced full gallop, without any material damage excepting to the gate ; and a fellow claiming pay- ment, John B. showed him a double-barrelled pistol, upon which he prudently took to flight, our courier following with a horsewhip. You must not suppose MISSION TO SWEDEN. 159 f # f H.M.'s Minister did not intend to discharge all claims upon him, but this fellow on horseback had no right to make the demand, and we saw him no more. At the end of the stage we paid two dollars banco, or four francs, for the damage done, and at two arrived at Malmo, where, imagine my despair, the wind quite foul and blowing a hurricane, so no immediate prospect of getting across. I went to the Governor's, where I met my friend Count de Clarifait, who showed us an extraordinary establish- ment, the Canute Society. It was established by Canute, King of Denmark, in the thirteenth century. The room was magnificent, and there were some beautiful silver-gilt cups of that date out of which the guests drank (they were a drunken lot), and now there is a gold pigeon which, on admission, every member wears round his neck. The Courts of Justice and archives are very curious, and of very ancient date. I walked down to the port and found a most commodious pier which forms a tolerable harbour. The chief export is corn, this province (Scania) being justly termed the garden of Sweden. The town is rather pretty, with good houses, and it is remarkable to observe great oaks growing out of masses of rock where you could not collect a handful i6o MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S of earth. The costumes were very becoming. The women wear blue jackets cut Hke the undress of our Lancers and hooked the same, with a row of black velvet on each side, a blue petticoat and blue stock- ings, a large white stiff square handkerchief tied ornamentally round the head displaying the ends, above the ears is a fold hanging down the back. They also have a red dress the same pattern, and we frequently saw the peasant women with little bodices of parti-coloured cloth and thin linen sleeves puffed out. We passed Lund, where there is a college like the one at Upsala, of about five hundred students. Friday, May 2%i/i. — I breakfasted at four, the wind moderated, and though our crossing was long it was beautifully smooth and agreeable. Our entry into Copenhagen seemed proclaimed by three French frigates in the roads, which fired a salute for the arrival on board of their Minister. They sailed for St. Petersburg. Mr. Foster, our Minister, was most kind, and immediately invited us to dinner, but the expectation of the arrival of my dear boy kept me upon tenter-hooks and unfitted me for every- thing. The violence of the wind retarded the steam- vessel so much, that instead of arriving about six MISSION TO SWEDEN. 129 Sattirday, April 24M. — I presented myself at the Palace to make inquiries. The Queen ordered me to her presence in spite of my being in plain clothes, etc., and was most gracious. They say it is the first occasion of an audience out of uniform. I hope to have completed a most complicated com- mercial transaction to Mr. Canning's satisfaction. I have taken a fearful responsibility upon myself, but in doing so I have secured great and immediate benefits to British commerce. DESPATCH NO. 1 9. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, April 2 ^^ 1824. ''Sir, ''Count Engestrom officially informed me this morning, that from this moment any difference between the duties on English cargoes paid by British and Swedish vessels in Swedish ports, previous to ist of June, would be refunded to the owners by this Government. "This liberal promise, tho' hardly to have been expected, will probably not surprise you after the noble, candid, and manly manner in which this Cabinet has met what I conceived to be your wishes throughout the whole of this important question. " The transaction may be regarded as the com- VOL. I. K I30 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S mencement of the new anti-prohibitive system of Sweden, and as confirmatory of her late continually- professed wish to establish once for all the com- mercial relations of the two countries on the solid basis of a permanent treaty/' etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 20. TO 1\IR. CANNING. "Stockholm, April 26, 1824, '' Sir, '' I had the honor of being invited to dine yesterday with the King, who was pleased to hold with me a very, very long conversation, part of which may not be uninteresting to you. '' Immediately after dinner H.M. calling me aside, and placing me next to him, thus expressed himself : "- ' Mon General, nos derniers arrangemens pr6- paratoires, pour le commerce des deux pays, m'ont fait tout le plaisir que me font toujours ceux qui nous rapprochent de I'Angleterre, et j'envisage ce qui vient d'arriver comme de bon augure pour r^tablissement d'un systeme permanent dont la Suede et la Norvege ne peuvent manquer de tirer grand avantage, des que les choses prendront la forme qu'on leur destine. Mon G6n6ral, vous savez tout aussi bien que nous I'dtat de notre int^rieur — MISSION TO SWEDEN. 131 que nous sommes entre deux systemes, I'ancien et le nouveau, sans en avoir aucun ; mais les comites (dont nous n'avons pas encore re^u un seul Rapport) ne se donnent pas de relache, et je ne doute nulle- ment que leurs travaux ne mettent en clair les details qui nous sont essentiels pour pouvoir entamer un Traite tellement desir6. Je demeurerai toujours profond6ment p6netre de la conduite magnanime de I'Angleterre lorsque la position deplorable de la Suede Ta forc6 de declarer la guerre ; lorsque les flottes anglaises, au lieu d'aneantir le commerce de notre pays, lui accorda au contraire leur protection.' '' Then adverting to the general situation of Europe, he continued : "• ' Je sens importance de I'lndependance de la Suede comme presque aussi necessaire a celle des autres Etats de I'Europe qu'a la Suede elle-meme, car Le Grand Colosse dti Nord, fut-il en 6tat de conqu^rir et de maintenir une position dans la Suede, y compris Gotanbourg, je ne peux pas me figurer un 6tat de choses plus funeste aux interets g6n6raux du Nord, comme on ne pourrait pas douter la marche que suivrait le Dannemarc dans une crise pareille/ *' He then adverted to his northern neighbour's views of aggrandisement, saying : K 2 t;s2 memoir of lord BLOOMFIELD'S '' ' II possede d6ja la moiti6 du globe ; meme ]uelques-unes de mes landes les plus mis6rables sont lombees entre ses mains, comme s'il ne devait pas se contenter de I'occupation que lui donnerait I'ame- lioration de ces deserts, vastes, steriles, et abandon- nes, qui reconnaissent son sceptre. Je regarde la Suede comme presqu'un pays insulaire. Mon objet est de la conserver telle, et en etat de se passer de toute intervention etrangere. Je ddsire seiilenient de maiiitenir cette pcfnmside, en azUaiit qitil soil pos- sible^ comme 7ine pa7'tie intdgr^ale de rA7igleter7'e' " ' Mon General, vous ne pouvez pas vousservir de termes trop forts pour assurer Mons. Canning (pour qui mon pays et moi-meme ont le plus haut respect) que tels sont mes sentiments/ Then changing the subject, he said : ' Vous etes irlandais, mon General, j'espere que vos nouvelles de ce pays- la deviennent plus satisfaisantes. II m'est presqu' arrive dans le terns de connaitre votre Irlande plus intimement, car lorsque c'etait la politique de la France de remuer I'Angleterre par moyen de 1' Ir- lande, et celle de I'Angleterre d'attiser les troubles interieurs de la France, Lord Edouard FitzGerald etait en communication avec nous autres de la part des rebelles. II demanda au premier Consul MISSION TO SWEDEN, 133 que celui-cl envoyat Bernaclotte avec vingt mille hommes, des armes, toutes sortes de munitions, de I'argent, etc., avec lesquels il nous donna plein espoir de conquerir le pays. Notre plan etait de partager notre force, de sacrifier une petite partie de nos vaisseaux et de nos troupes par une demon- stration a I'embouchure du Shannon, mais la veritable descente devait etre sur la cote d' Antrim. Cepen- dant ces negociations trainerent en longueur, et mon mariage fut fixe pour un jour prochain ; puis Lord Edouard mourant peu de terns apres, j'augurai si mal du succes de I'entreprise, que ma liaison avec I'expedition fut ainsi dissoute, et I'affaire degenera en ce que nous connaissons tous, celle de Humbert, etc. ''J'avoue, mon General, que politiquement par- lant, j'envisageais alors la separation de I'lrlande de I'Angleterre comme un Coup d'Etat de la plus grande importance, en tant que par la, celle-ci serait privee de son magasin principal d'hommes et de munitions de bouche pour lequipement de ses armees et de sa marine. II me serait un plaisir bien sensible de vous montrer un de ces matins toute la correspondance avec I'lrlande, laquelle j'ai sous ma garde ici. J'eus I'avantage de voir Lord 134 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Cornwallis a Amiens, en 1801. Bien qu'il fut Vice-roi d'Irlande a leiDoque de la descente pro- posee, il discuta I'affaire sans la moindre reserve, et j'avoue que nous n'avons que peu differe sur la perspective defavorable d'un succes permanent, malgre les troubles intestins du pays." *' He next adverted to my approaching journey, thus : " Mon General, je sens un plaisir plus et plus vif a mesure que notre voyage approche ; et je ne suis pas sans espoir que vous continuez de penser que notre marche, quoique lente, est toujours en avant. Ma plus grande ambition pour le moment, et je le regarde comme ma tache la plus imperieuse, c'est d'amener une union parfaite, de sentiment et de systeme, dans toutes les branches de I'administra- tion interieure de la Suede et de la Norvege. " L'accueil qu'on a fait a mon fils, comme Vice- roi de ce pays-la, me fait esperer que je vivrai pour accomplir cet objet, bien que le grand ddfaut des homines d'etat est de compter trop sur la longdvitd, '' Mon General, il ne faut pas que nous nous quittions, sans que je vous remercie encore une fois de l'accueil que vous m'avez fait a votre fete magnifique en honneur de la naissance de votre Maitre, et je dois vous repeter de la part de ma MISSION TO SWEDEN. 135* femme et de moi-meme qu'il nous est un sujet d'orgueil et de felicitation d'y avoir assiste." '^ ''He concluded by desiring me to transmit to H.M. the renewed assurances of his deep respect and homage. I cannot refrain from mentioning a proof of the kindness of this Court towards the * "General, our last preparatory arrangements for the com- merce of the two countries gave me all the pleasure that I always experience at anything which tends to unite me with England j and I consider what has just taken place as a good omen for the establishment of a permanent system, from which Sweden and Norway cannot fail to derive great advantages as soon as matters assume the form we intend. General, you know as well as we do our internal condition ; that we are between two systems, the ancient and the modern, without as yet having any; but the Committees (from which we have not till now received a single report) are working without intermission, and I have no doubt whatever that their labours will clear up the questions of detail, which are essential before we can arrange the Treaty so much desired. I shall always be deeply impressed with the magnanimous conduct of England when Sweden's deplorable position forced her to declare war, and when the British Fleet, instead of utterly annihilating the commerce of our country, afforded us, on the contrary, its protection. I feel the importance of the independence of Sweden as being nearly as necessary to that of the other States of Europe as it is to Sweden herself, because, were the great Colossus of the North able to conquer and maintain a position in Sweden, including Gothen- burg, I cannot picture to myself anything more fatal to the general interests of the North, as no one could doubt the path Denmark would take in such a crisis." He then adverted to his northern neighbour's views of 136 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S British mission: that H.M., on learning my inten- tion to take a house near the Scanian Camp, was pleased to order one to be provided at the Royal expense in that neighbourhood for its accommoda- tion, placing myself in a separate residence close to the Prince Royal," etc., etc. aggrandisement, saying : ^' He already possesses half the globe ; even some of my poorest lands have fallen into his hands, as if he could not be satisfied with the occupation which the ameliora- tion of those vast, sterile, and desolate wastes which acknowledge his sceptre should give him. I consider Sweden as almost like an island. My object is to keep her as such, and in a condition to do without any foreign intervention; my only wish is to keep this peninsula as far as possible like an integral part of England. General, you cannot make use of too strong terms to assure Mr. Canning (for whom my country and I have the highest respect) that such are my sentiments." Then changing the subject, he said : *' You are an Irishman, General ; I hope you are getting more satisfactory news from that country. Once upon a time it almost happened to me to become more intimately acquainted with Ireland, because when it was the policy of France to stir up disaffection in England through Ireland, and the policy of England to aggravate the interior troubles of France, Lord Edward Fitzgerald was in communication with us on the part of the rebels. He asked the First Consul to send Bernadotte with all kinds of arms, munitions of war, and money, etc., etc., holding out the hope that with these we might conquer the country. Our plan was to divide our forces, and to sacrifice a small number of our ships and our troops by making a false attack at the mouth of the Shannon, while the true attack was to be on the coast of Antrim. However, these negotiations dragged on a long time; my marriage was arranged to take place shortly; then as MISSION TO SWEDEN. 137 DESPATCH NO. 7 (SLAVE TRADE). TO MR. CANNING. " Stockholm, April 29, 1824. *' You will observe that instead of mentioning Tangiers (or any other place equally inconvenient in Africa) it is left to subsequent agreement where the Courts ad hoc are to be established, as also in Lord Edward Fitzgerald died soon after, I augured so ill of the success of the undertaking that my connection with the expedition was dissolved, and the affair ended, as we all know, in that o^ Humbert, etc. I confess, General, that, politically speaking, I considered the separation of Ireland and England as a stroke of policy of the greatest importance, inasmuch as thereby England would be deprived of one of her principal means of recruiting and obtaining munitions of war for the equipment of her army and navy. I should be delighted to show you one of these days the whole correspondence with Ireland, which I have got under my care here. I had the advantage of seeing Lord Cornwallis at Amiens in 180 1. Although he was Viceroy of Ireland at the time of the contemplated attack, he discussed the whole affair without the slightest reserve, and I own that we differed very little upon the unfavourable prospects of any permanent success, in spite of the intestine troubles of that country." He next adverted to my approaching journey thus : " General, I feel more and more pleased as the moment approaches for our journey, and I am not without hope that you will continue to think that our march, though slow, is always forward. My greatest ambition for the present, and what I consider as my most imperative task, is to bring about a perfect union of sentiments and system in all the branches of the internal administration of Sweden and Norway. My son's reception as Viceroy of the latter country makes me hope that I shall live long enough to I -.8 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S o the West Indies ; and as the possibility of a single case occurring to call for the decision of a tribunal is very doubtful, this method of getting over the difficulty may perhaps meet your approbation. In general the present form of this treaty appears to come as near to what is required by England as the different forms of Swedish and English legisla- tion allow ; added to which, the manifest con- currence of this country in the sentiments of detestation which this odious traffic inspires, and the positive assurance of the official persons here, lead me to look forward to subsequent measures on the part of the next Diet that will go any length required in the view of its entire suppression," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 23. TO MR. CANNING. " Stockholm, May 5, 1824. '' Sir, '' The presence of the Prince Viceroy and his Princess at Christiania has produced the effect which might have been expected. Their affable accomplish this object, although the greatest mistake public men make is to count too much upon longevity. General, we must not part without my once more thanking you for the reception you gave me at your magnificent fete ; and I must repeat, on my wife's part as well as my own, that it is a subject of pride and con- gratulation to us both to have assisted at it." MISSION TO SWEDEN, 139 and engaging deportment, adopting as they do the very simple habits of the country, have already, as I learn from all quarters, greatly weakened ' the lurking sentiment of separate nationality,' and can- not fail, by produqing much unison of feeling, to advance the work which H.S.M. declared in conver- sation with me should be the principal task of his life." DIARY. Saturday, May ist. — I gave orders that my carriage should go to the Park with four horses. This is the great Long-champ of Stockholm ; every one is out in their smartest attire. I went by water to dine at a French hotel in the Park. Quite warm and not a breath of air. At five o'clock the pro- cession began ; every carriage in Stockholm was out. Mine was with a short set, and the coach- man's wig attracted every eye. The King, who rides in great state, with a guard and a numerous staff, stopped to see it. We were all on horse- back, and His Majesty most graciously stopped to speak with me. The day was beautiful, and I suppose there must have been 300 carriages and a vast population out. They generally drive twice round the Park. The Oueen and all her attendants decide the taste of this performance. The extreme 140 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S fineness of the day induced Her Majesty to make nearly a third round, and I suppose each must be a distance of three miles English. I did not get home till near ten o'clock, when it was still quite light. Tuesday, May \th. — I went to Madame de Wetterstedt's, who drove me to the great Church of St. Catherine, from whence the view of this capital is magnificent, like a panorama. The extreme clear- ness of the weather, which was quite Italian, gave w^onderful effect to the surrounding scenery. Wednesday, May ^tli. — I dined with their Majesties in the Park ; a large and agreeable dinner. Both the King and Queen excessively gracious. His Majesty, when I thanked him, said : " Mon General, your kindly feelings to my country demand all the return in our power to make, and I should be sorry to appreciate your departure less than you will find it appreciated by every individual of the land." We walked, and Her Majesty took my arm for a long time. We drank tea in the Pavilion, from where there is a most beautiful view ; the scenery bounded by the Port and Stockholm on the one side, and the picturesque Park on the other. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 141 TJuLrsday, May 6th. — I started at nine pre- cisely, a wet, foggy morning. However, as we had seen the country, that was not material, and the dust was laid delightfully. J. B. and I in my caleche, Holmes and Gore in the second, with three horses each, the best mode of travellinsf ; and I continue to wonder more than I can express how these little animals contrive without distress to gallop up and down hills at the rate of near ten miles an hour. I sent forward an avant-coitrier in a light wagon with two horses, and he orders the horses, which never fail to the moment. One has one's own coachman, and luckily I have two men who drive admirably. In addition to one's own load, one must always carry the bbnde (peasant) who owns the horses one drives. There are no horses kept at the inns, but there is a man in authority at each who orders them in as occasion demands, and they invariably come to the moment. We reached the hospitable house of our friend Mr. Wharrendorfs parents at three o'clock, dressed, and dined. I never saw a more beautiful place, « and in the most perfect order, the house clea7ier, and the apartments nicer than in any country. Unluckily the day continued gloomy, and our view 142 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S consequently obstructed. There is a pavilion close to the house in the pleasure garden, from where one sees twenty-four islands in the Lake Mahler, all wooded and occasionally rocky. These are studded in a vast expanse of the lake. The house is surrounded by trees and other shelter. Very magnificent gardens and fine offices, all in perfect order. We had a most hospitable and cordial reception, and a most hearty promise of welcome on our road back. We took leave at half- past seven, and continued our route to the son's, where we arrived a little after eight. It began to be dark, and I saw but little. There was, however, a great furnace blazing, which they had loaded with charcoal, to give an increased illumination upon my arrival. The place seems very pretty, but not so picturesque as the father's, nor so large. Our host is a bachelor, and though exceedingly comfortable, still a lady would add greatly to the ag7'dment of the house. We had supper at half- past nine, and I asked leave to go to bed, for I was tired, having sat up nearly all night writing. Friday^ May Jth, — Breakfasted at nine. Our young host most amiable. He was a long time Secretary of Legation in London. A foggy day, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 143 with small rain. Walked about the iron works. Above 140 persons are daily employed. They cast cannon and all sorts of machinery. There were pretty pleasure gardens in their infancy, a quantity of fruit and all the produce of the earth in abundance. The wet fog continuing, we dined at half-past two, to go out after dinner and see some distant establishments. Mr. de Wharrendorf pere came over to dinner ; the weather prevented Madame W. from coming. We dined most com- fortably, much a Vanglaise, and after coffee went out in two open carriages, drove on a most beautiful road, and visited a mill establishment, where there are also very fine gardens, and where my hosts often go in summer to drink tea. There are some beautiful little islands in the stream that turns the mills, connected with pretty bridges; and rocks, trees, and water are never lacking, so that the scenery is always strikingly picturesque. In going we passed a most cultivated valley, and only imagine that one fortnight since the country was all under snow, and yet the wheat is generally a foot high already. The oats and barley, etc., sown twelve days since, is above ground. The quick transition from winter to spring in vegetation is wonderful. 144 LORD BLOOMFIELD'S MISSION TO SWEDEN. We saw a fine old dairywoman at the distant establishment seventy-six years old, as clean as possible, and the milk and pans vying with the snow. The milk is kept in small vessels with perpendicular sides. After taking a beautiful drive of about ten miles, we returned to tea, and soon after the fine old father took his leave and returned home, pressing us and engaging us to return by his house, and pay him a visit, considering our call as nothing. There is a fine picture here of Gustave III., who was greatly lid with the grand- father of our host, and during his residence at Gripsholm used to ride over to this place, Aker, a distance of four miles, and spend the day like a private individual. This was the King's common practice, never allowing the old Wharrendorf to make the least change in his dinner or anything else. MISSION TO SWEDEN. i6i they did not get in till near eleven. However, I was blessed with a sight of our beloved son, having long awaited him at the landing-place. The dear fellow nearly jumped into the water to get to me, and I had the delight of embracing him, well and safe under his father's care. He has grown very much, and stouter. Frederick Stewart (Viscount Castlereagh) is a warm-hearted boy, and I hope we shall get on very well. My letters being delivered I read them all through, for I had become so nervous that sleep was impossible. However, I was too happy to complain. Mr. Foster announced to me the King of Denmark's (Frederic IV.) gracious desire to see me before my departure. Thinkino- H.M. was absent I came without uni- form, but the King had not availed himself of so sufficient a reason for not seeing me, filled as he is with business. May 2()tL — I breakfasted late, for at nine our dear boy seated himself upon my bed to tell me all about home.'" With the happy prospects of return- * Till his father's death my husband never failed going to his room when first he rose to kiss his hand and wish him good morning. The devoted affection between father and son was most touching, and, alas ! unusual.— Ed. VOL. I. ^ i62 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S • ■ — ^ — ■ " -■ — ■'-... .1 - — > iiig home this winter I feel somewhat consoled for the loss of meeting you in Italy. This town displays much more activity than Stockholm, and is better built, but it is much inferior in situation. The King received me with the utmost graciousness. I blundered out the best excuse I could for having come without my uniform, and the audience went off most agreeably. H.M. was very affable and sa7ts /agon. He is not hand- some, small of stature, with large eyes and a very large mouth. I passed through a line of Life Guards in the outer room — very fine-looking men — and was conducted by a Chambellan. May 2<^th. — We dined at Mr. Foster's — a very agreeable party and fine dinner. The house is large and well appointed : Mr. Foster very pleasant and good-looking. May 30///. — We attended the French Reformed Church. The congregation seemed very devout, but the service was theatrical and devoid of that simplicity which characterises our own Church. I paid some visits, and prepared to dine at the Swedish Minister's and pay our respects to Prince and Princess Christian, who sent a Chambellan to invite me. Their Royal Highnesses were living MISSION TO SWEDEN, 163 in the country. We arrived in due time, found a great party assembled, and were most graciously received. The Princess is a very fine woman, and their Royal Highnesses were very communi- cative, spoke in glowing terms of England, and before I took my leave the Prince invited me to dinner, with my six gentlemen. The drive was through a flat country, but rich in verdure and trees. The house was miserable ; the pleasure- grounds well kept, and the trees very fine. There was a picturesque village in view, and a lovely stream. May ^is^, — I visited the Picture Gallery, which was very poor, the best picture there a Vandyke of Charles I. We also saw a curious and well- arranged collection of stuffed birds, which has lately been presented to the King. We drove out to look at some horses. Saw the King's saddle- horses and stable, which was very fine, with a magnificent riding house. We dined at Mr. Foster's — twenty-four people and a fine table as to service and decorations. Prince Frederick of Hesse, brother to the Duchess of Cambridge, who married a Danish Princess, came in the evening, and was excessively civil to me. The character of M 2 1 64 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the Copenhagen society is quite different from that at Stockholm. The Royal Family go about like other people. June \st, — We lionised the town, but there is not much of interest ; nice houses and streets, no suburbs. We went to the Exchange, where there was a busy scene. We saw a good many very cheap horses, none worth twenty pounds ; and in the afternoon I drove with Mr. Foster to Fredericks- burg, about two English miles. It is situated on the only rising ground above the city, and was our headquarters when we bombarded Copenhagen. The view in its way is very fine but quite flat, the Baltic, the Swedish coast, and all the surround- ing country. The verdure was fine and the trees large and in rich foliage. The roads radiate from the town with rows of trees, paved in the middle for some distance, then gravelled. June 2nd. — We all dined with the Prince and Princess Christian. They lived seven miles from town, and we arrived just as the guests were collect- ing for the circle. After a longish dinner we walked out. The situation and gardens are lovely, fine trees and a pretty river running at the foot of the terrace on which the chateau stands, and which turns a mill at about four hundred yards distance. MISSION TO SWEDEN, 165 The Prince took me a most beautiful drive. The people looked well clad and comfortable, as if well fed. The costumes were varied and particularly- pretty, especially those at a Dutch colony established on the Island of Amag, which produces almost all the vegetables consumed in the capital. These people retain their original costume, which was very picturesque. After our drive the Princess received us with the utmost courtesy ; she had charming manners, and their Royal Highnesses seemed parti- cularly gratified by my admiration of the place, etc., and invited me to repeat my visit. Jzme 2i^'-d. — We bought three excellent horses for less than ^30, and afterwards went to see the Palace which was burnt down in 1795, and which is being slowly rebuilt ; but the country is so impoverished it is supposed the King will never .complete it as a residence. The Royal Family and court now reside in a square, formed by four .houses, which are convenient and fine buildings. The houses are large and connected by colonnades, through which the four streets pass. The new Palace will be a fine mass. It commands the town, and is situated on an island in nearly the centre of the city. The apartments are spacious, and quite adequate to the state of such a kingdom. 1 66 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S ■- ' ' - . ■ — . . ■ — - — ■ — ^ fime A^th. — We were invited to dine at the Russian Minister's, in the country. We drove through the royal park, and got out at the Hermitage, a staring building, from the upper story of which the view is splendid. The j^ark was full of deer and chevreuil, and one can see Elsineur, Helsingborg, the coasts of Sweden, Copenhagen, and the fine expanse of the Baltic, which is, at this season, covered with shipping. The Sound Dues form the most important part of the Danish revenue. We dined with Baron Nicolai. He was long Secretary of Legation in England, where I knew him well. The scene at his home was afflicting, for there could not have been a happier couple ; but not long since, at the birth of his last infant, his poor wife was snatched from him, leaving him with eight young children. The poor man had not seen any one since his bereavement, and was greatly affected at our first meeting, and wept bitterly. I called, on my way home, on Prince William of Hesse, who has a fine family of five children. We all sat round the tea-table, and the children mixed in the circle ; I never saw less form. The members of the Royal Family are much respected here, and seem to enjoy more of the comforts of private life than any other Royalties I have seen, without the least diminution MISSION TO SWEDEN'. 167 of respect on the part of those who approach them. They visit about, and appear to enjoy Hfe greatly. Jzme 6th. — We attended the French Reformed Church, after which I went to Mr. Foster's, and read his interesting despatches during the Swedish Revolution. In the evening I took leave of Mr. Foster. June J Ik. — We left Copenhagen, and drove along the shore to Mr. Browne's, our Secretary of Legation, about twelve miles from Copenhagen; the scenery was beautiful but the road execrable, and deep sand. We travelled in the vehicles of the country, *' stuhl-wagens," a frame containing seats across, the coachman occupying the front, and we had four horses, so, in spite of the bad roads, we made six miles an hour. We had an excellent d(/eilner a la fotirchette at Mr. Browne's. His wife, the daughter of Mr. Puget, the London banker, was a pretty fair woman, and Browne is a cousin of Lord Sligo. After an hour's repose we pro- ceeded across the country to the Palace of Fredericsburg, an ancient, extraordinary, and very fine building in the style of Hatfield, and designed in part by Inigo Jones. The King was crowned there. It is surrounded by a moat of dirty water, and is built upon piles. The Chapel was very 3 68 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S pretty, the ceiling richly carved and gilt. The throne still there, and the altar, at the foot of which, the King had the crown placed upon his head (the 31st of July, 1815). The Chapel com- municates with the Palace. The bed in which the unfortunate Mathilda slept is still up, and there is written upon a pane of glass in the boudoir, it is said by the poor Queen herself, " Oh keep me innocent, make others great." In the Knights' Hall, where the King at his coronation gives a grand ball and supper, are the arms of the Knights of the Elephant. It is 150 feet long and 40 broad. The ceiling low, but most richly carved and gilt. The gilding employed ten thousand ducats in gold. There were some old jDictures more curious than valuable, one of Mathilda''' and one of Tycho Brahe.t "^ Mathilde (Caroline), ninth and youngest child of Frederic Prince of Wales, and sister of George III., was married at fifteen in 1766 to Christian VII., king of Denmark. She was beautiful, young, and inexperienced, and was accused of an in- trigue with the Minister Struensee, divorced and exiled. She died at Celle, in Hanover, in 1775, aged 24, at the moment, it is said, when her husband, acknowledging her innocence, was about to recall her to Denmark. t The celebrated astronomer, who was born in Scania, 1546. He built the great observatory at Uranienburg, and resided MISSION TO SWEDEN. 169 We left Fredericsburg to view the stud, which consisted of 700 horses. We saw no less than 90 three-year-olds in one stable. The buildings were very good, but the quality of horse very indifferent. Formerly the Sovereigns resided at this Palace, but now only go there for their coronation, on which occasion the furniture is all brought from Copenhagen. When Christian IV. completed this Palace, he was in the habit of paying the workmen with his own hand, every Saturday evening, at the rate of twopence a day. The stone is still shown upon which the King sat while performing this ceremony. We proceeded from Fredericsburg to Elsineur, through a rich, finely wooded and well cultivated, though apparently not thickly inhabited country ; the villages were very clean, and the peasants healthy and good-looking, the costumes very pretty. We passed the Castle of Irdenburg, but the Princess Julie being there we could not see it. The situation was very fine, ^ — . > there for seventeen years, after which he left his own country for Bohemia, and died at Prague in 1601. Differing from the systems of Ptolemy and Copernicus, he taught that the earth was immovable, and that the sun and the moon revolve round it, whilst Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn revolve round the sun. Keppler was a pupil of Tycho Brahe's. lyo MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S overlooking a beautiful lake, and commanding an extensive view. We arrived at Elsineur about eight o'clock, supped with the Consul, Mr. Fenwick, and walked round Cronberg, where we saw the convicts at work. They were malefactors sentenced to hard labour, some for a period of years, and some for life. They wore a light chain upon one leg, and received 2\ pence a day and a portion of horse-meat twice a week. They were well clothed and looked remarkably healthy. The town is a pretty sea-port, the piers projected into the clear sea water. Ordered all pre- parations for crossing on the morrow. I found my two horses just purchased and delivered here quite well for the moderate price of ^22. June ?>tk. — We walked to survey the Casde and Hamlet's garden; the former was under repair and not strong: a wet ditch and casemates, and about 40 pieces of cannon. The Casde, which occupied the centre, was a hollow square of hewn stone with four spiral towers and a square tower, on the roof of which the unfortunate Queen Mathilda was allowed to walk and breathe the air. We were shown her apartment, a bedroom and two ''salons." They show the cabinet where MISSION TO SWEDEN. 171 she was induced to sio-n the confession of her guilt. We walked from thence to the garden, said to be that where Hamlet was buried, and the place is shown where the Ghost scene was represented. This chateau is royal and well- kept, the view from thence and the Cronberg beautiful. A masfnificent bank of wood rises behind the chateau, which commands the Sound, the Baltic, and the Cattegat. The Sound at this season of the year is filled with vessels, and the roadstead of Elsineur also. We returned to the Consul's, where we had a ddjedne^^ a la fottrchette, and after looking at the Sound Custom House, we took our leave of Denmark. It appears that the Sound Dues were collected by Denmark as early as 1600, on the ground of keeping the Baltic free from the pirates which then infested that sea. In 1701 the Powers of Europe continued this boon to Denmark, and it is acknowledged and paid accordingly, the amount averaging about ;/^i 20,000 per annum. We sailed about three with a delightful breeze, and landed in three-quarters of an hour at Helsing- borg, where I felt as if I had arrived at home, so much respect and attention was shown to me. 172 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Orders had been sent to pass my effects and facilitate my journey by every means. We dined, walked about the town, and started about half- past six. The town is not by any means so large or so well-kept as Elsineur, but the view from the old ruined Castle of Helsingborg and its environs is very fine. I travelled with my son in his carriage, and he was delighted with the country, roads, and rate of travelling, and {June ()ih) we arrived at the Camp of Scania, where I was lodged in a nice retired cottage. My quarters were soon besieged by Generals all delighted to welcome me, and orderlies were sent to attend me. We got ourselves equipped, and I rode out attended by my four young Aides- de-Camp. The Camp was beautifully situated, and the troops presented an excellent appearance. The King was lodged in a ci-devant barrack fitted up for the occasion. His Majesty dined at four. The environs were beautiful; the troops encamped upon a fine open plain bounded by a pretty river and highish hills covered with wood. The pavilions for the Queen and her Court were very pretty, and the numberless cottages which are dotted about made the scene very picturesque. The Prince's tents were maQ^nificent. MISSION TO SWEDEN. i73 Jtnte iitk. — We rode to explore a most romantic ravine, accompanied by General Count Byornsternl. It was beautiful, its depth consider- able, and its sides were of perpendicular rocks dotted with trees ; we returned home by a valley which was like a beautiful park, rich with verdure and fine trees. We passed two charming little cottages, one the Bostilla of a captain. The land round the house was his remuneration in lieu of pay. The nights were so cold that the water in the men's canteens was frozen. Jtme I'^th, — The coming of Their Majesties was announced by the arrival of numerous carriages with attendants, and the country folks collected to see the Queen, this being Their Majesties' first visit to Scania. The women looked very pretty in their costumes, all in white head-dresses with a quantity of linen flowing down their shoulders, scarlet bodies, and blue petticoats, shoes and stockings. About half- past nine, Their Majesties' approach was announced by the firing of cannon. There was no parade, but the soldiers in their fatigue dresses collected in the line by which the carriages came, and I never heard such continuous cheering. It lasted without interruption for at least half-an-hour. 174 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Jttne lA^th. — I went to inquire after Their Majesties, and the King immediately seat to invite me and my young men to dinner.' Nothing could be more gracious than my reception ; the King held me by the hand for several minutes, and renewed his satisfaction at seeing me again. I presented my son to His Majesty, who introduced him to the Queen. They were very gracious, and after dinner spoke to me in great praise of his manners and good looks. We dined above 150 persons, though the batterie de cuisine only arrived the previous day. At six we mounted to see the troops pass in review. The Queen came in her landau and six grays. About 15,000 men passed His Majesty, and a more creditable appearance could not be seen. It is wonderful how all of a sudden these peasants become soldiers, and lose all trace of clodhoppers ! After the King passed the three lines, ist. Cavalry and Artillery, 2nd, Infantry, 3rd, Chasseurs, the whole passed in column and returned to their camp ; when His Majesty galloped from right to left the troops cheered, tossing up their caps. Nothing can be more evident than the army's love for the King. H.M. graciously desired my company every day MISSION TO SWEDEN, 175 at dinner, at the same time saying I was not to put myself out, but that a place would always be provided for me, and the oftener I came the more agreeable it would be to ''ma femme et moi." A court servant was ordered to my house, and the King's stable placed at my disposal. Jzme \^th, — I waited on the ladies, and then rode about the camp. Count Colloredo took me to the Queen's dinner at half-past three. At six I rode to the different corps which were exercising.* His Majesty was now employed in observing the mode of drill, and in giving such orders as appeared expedient. Everyone seemed surprised that I had been riding in the morning, and kept asking if I was not fatigued. It is extraordinary that such a stout race of people should be so little active in their habits. I inspected the Prince's tents, which were very extensive : a table for about 100 persons in the dining tent. The King on taking leave said to me /''' ''General, serez-vous chez nous demain?" Of course I bowed. H.M. added, '' vous etes bien aimable, mais je vous prie d'amener tous vos messieurs." * " General, shall you come to us to-morrow ? " " You are very kind, but I beg you will bring all your gentlemen." 176 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S June i6tk. — His Excellency Count Aderstrom, his son, and the Cabinet Secretary of State, joined our breakfast, and the Count conducted me through the camp to pay my visits of ceremony. 'Twas a morning's work. We dined with Their Majesties, and John was commanded to dine at the Royal table. Their kindness and condescension was very great. The Queen regretted that as yet there was no rdtmion in the evenings. Jttne I'jtk. — I despatched my mail and then rode to General Suchetelen's, explored the neigh- bourhood and found it beautiful and very parkish. On our return we espied a considerable house, well situated, to which we proceeded and found it inhabited by a saddler, who, quite in the country and away from the public road, kept a dozen men at work. The house lay in a very pretty park of fine verdure and trees, with a stream running close to it. Coming back John got into a fine black bog ! After dinner we attended the King ; the regiments were in brigades; one regiment of iioo men had not one sick. Coloredo, da Curjuca, and Count Tobe, drank tea with us. fime \Zth. — Baron Wrede joined us, and we arranged for Her Majesty's drive to the beautiful MISSION TO SWEDEN. 177 Swiss ravine. I dined at Court, and had a very- interesting conversation with Madame de Tachere, whose husband was at the head of Joseph Bona- parte's household when he was King of Spain. She escaped on horseback at the retreat of the French, and described their sufferings as dreadful — the want of water terrible. When she found how well the prisoners had been treated by the English she re- gretted that she had not surrendered, and made '' le voyage d'Angleterre." It was very amusing to hear her. I attended the King to a review of the Artil- lery and the Prince Royal's Regiment of Hussars, which was very good indeed. I drank tea with Her Majesty, and had much conversation about artillery. I walked with the King to see some newly-constructed small-arm ammunition carriages. Jzme igtk. — I dined with the generals of cavalry, and in the evening we went to the exercise ground, and saw a magnificent regiment of dragoons, 1000 strong. June 20th. — Mails of the 4th and nth arrived, and brought me further approval from home. Mr. Rootray called, and I made arrangements for his introduction to the great Swedish chemist. Service was performed at Court before dinner ; a long busi- VOL. I. N 178 MEMOIR OF LORD JBLOOMFIELJD'S ness, but it brought to mind the reflections this day should call forth, though I did not understand the form of prayer. M. and Madame Severin came to the service. She is the great blue-stocking of Sweden. She has two fine daughters, and they live near Helsingborg. The day we crossed from Elsineur they waited until half-past three, intending to dine with us, but we were too late. I went with the King to the exercise of the Smoland Hussars and the Light Brigade — very fine troops. The Nor- wegians, composing part of the latter, were parti- cularly active. Jtme 2\st. — I rode to see a division manoeuvring over the country. They marched about four miles, fighting their way against a supposed enemy, and appeared very intelligent. The country was well adapted to military movement, and the scene was remarkably animated and pretty. After dining with General Pope, I attended Her Majesty to the Swiss scene, about three English miles off. At the bottom of the hill the Queen descended from her high car- riage, and got into a little low Russian equipage. She was, however, so nervous, she preferred walk- ing, and I had the honour of conducting H.M. We thought the Queen and her ladies might expect MISSION TO SWEDEN. 179 some refreshment, so my servants had arranged a table in the woods covered with fruit, hot and cold punch, etc. I did the honours till nine o'clock ; Her Majesty was so little formal that all glided on smoothly on the most rugged of surfaces. Every- one seemed pleased, and the evening was beautiful. Johnny made the acquaintance of the ladies, and was launched to find his own way. Nothing could exceed the Queen's kindness. /tine 23^^. — I received notice that the King would see the Cavalry Division at two, which put us all in a fuss, as the generals of infantry were to dine with me ; however, I put off the hour, and attended His Majesty. The review — of about 3000 men — was magnificent, and the movements in line, about a mile and a quarter, wonderfully pre- cise. Just after we had swallowed our dinner, an orderly came to warn us of the Prince Royal's approach. The King and Queen had gone to meet H.R.H., so we all mounted our steeds and galloped off, met the co7^tege about a mile off, and escorted it to the pavilions ; the King and Queen, the Prince and Princess, in the first carriage. They saluted us most cordially. About nine o'clock the Prince Royal established himself in the camp, when the firing N 2 I So MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and cheering were quite stunning. The Royal Family are all greatly beloved by the soldiery. June 2/\th. — I and my suite received invitations to dine with the Prince Royal at three. At eleven I went to visit the King. It being His Majesty's name day, the troops assembled for prayers, a most touching sight: 16,000 men formed in square, about twenty clergymen in the centre, the senior being a little in advance, and the bands in their rear. The chanting was very impressive. A large tent was fitted up for the Royal Family and Court where we were all accomodated, and afterwards attended His Majesty round the troops. We sat down 150 at dinner, which was astonishingly well served. At six we adjourned to the officers' fete given to the King. Each man had a pint of strong rum punch to drink the King's health ; the ladies were assembled in the tents, the troops placed in square, all the generals stood at the foot of a long flight of steps headed by the Prince Royal, and received His Majesty, who took a glass of punch from one of the men's canteens, and drinking it expressed his acknowledgments and his devotion to Sweden. The Generals then drank the King's health, the whole square gave a cheer, and a gun MISSION TO SWEDEN. i8i fired. His Majesty then walked through the ranks and was received with acclamation. We then returned to the tents and paid our respects to the ladies ; the Princess was particularly gracious. When the Royal Family retired we took our leave, returning home along the line of tents. The regiments, as I passed with their General, gave me three cheers. This is like our May Day, and a figure surrounded with green was placed at the centre of each corps, and played the same tricks that a Jack-in-a-green plays with us. Coloredo and Decaigua joined our tea-party. Jime 2^th, — I attended the grand manoeuvre at eight a.m., and remained with the troops till twelve. The operations were very good, the men and officers intelligent. I got a thorough wetting, but the weather was warm and delicious ; the corn grows almost visibly. My suite and I dined with the Prince Royal, and I presented my young men to H.R.H. ; there were 150 persons at dinner, after which I mounted and went to the Infantry manoeuvres, which were very fine. We went back to the Princes, and made our bows to the Oueen, the Princess, and the ladies. I sat a long time near Her Majesty, who was very funny about her 1 82 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S nunnery, for all the men dine at the camp. Yesterday she said there were twenty ladies and only two men, notwithstanding which she never recollected so silent a meeting. She asked me when I meant to resume ''mes anciennes habitudes," meaning of course when I would dine with her. I bowed and said, ''no orders could be so flattering to me," etc. The ladies retired at half-past nine ; the Prince kept us for supper (H.R.H. lives in the camp), and after a cheerful meal we retired about eleven, having talked over the killed and wounded of the day. DESPATCH NO. 25. TO MR. CANNING. ''^ June 27, 1824. '' I have the satisfaction to acquaint you, that at an audience which H.S.M. graciously ac- corded me the day before yesterday, I received from H.M. the assurance, accompanied with the desire that I should convey the same to yourself, that he would forthwith issue his commands for the necessary documents to be prepared at Stock- holm, for giving full effect to a principle of perfect reciprocity in the commercial relations between Great Britain and Sweden ; and that whatever of private imposts to which the British MISSION TO SWEDEN. 183 flag IS subject in the ports of Sweden, not payable to the Crown, shall not only be relieved, but that this document shall have a retrospective operation from the ist of this month. *' It is my duty to convey to you, sir, the anxious desire manifested by H.M., that in this transaction he should not appear wanting in con- forming himself to any suggestions which may be calculated to improve the relations existing be- tween the two countries. "Indeed, H.M. was most explicit upon the great liberality which you had displayed in your desire to further extend these reciprocal advantages ; for I believe that the only private Company, the regulations of which pressed materially upon trade, were those of the Diving Company, against which I took special care to provide. "His Majesty took occasion in this lengthened conversation to repeat his great anxiety that you would include Norway in a similar temporary arrangement to that now completed between this country and Great Britain," etc. CHAPTER VI. Journey to Gothenburg — Visit to Count de la Gardie — Visit to the King's Stud at Fliizuge — Battle of Lund — Dinner at Ramlose — Audience of the King — Anecdote of Prince Oscar — Wennersborg — Fredericstein — Christiania — The- Storthing. Jtme 2^tk. — I went to see the Prince's Arab: horse just arrived from Cairo. The Arab groom that brought him was a good-looking fellow. He was lying yesterday under the horse, not having exchanged a word with a single soul since he left Alexandria, when an officer just returned from the East, addressed him in his own language. The poor fellow's surprise cannot be described, and his delight was extreme. He jumped up, kissed the officer's feet and his coat, and fell upon his knees, told all his story and was not at all discontented. He said he wished to see *'the stars of Stockholm and then return to his desert." I dined with the Royal Family at the Queen's, who. LORD BLOOMFIELD'S MISSION TO SWEDEN. 185 expressed her satisfaction at being here when T.M.'s are enabled to put off some of the forms of Royalty, which they find sadly genant. The Queen expressed her hope that I did not mean to desert T.M.'s after the camp, but intended accompanying them to Helsingborg, and added that I ought to see the fine chateaux of Scania. I bowed, and I suppose I must obey an order which is not at all disagreeable to me. I rode to the manoeuvres of cavalry and artillery. The move- ments were very intelligible, forcing the passage of a river, and being beaten back. The whole terminated by a charge of the entire line, 3000 cavalry, which was admirably done. I sat next the pretty Princess Royal at supper, with whom I spoke English. She is extremely good-natured, and very agreeable. She regretted not having had an English governess instead of either her Italian or German one, as she much preferred our language to others. I think she is a wonderful person, not having lost the sweetness and innocence of manner which belongs to almost childhood. June 2)Otk. — I was obliged to refuse dinner at the Prince Royal's, to dine with the King €71 petit comitd, only six people. At 4.30, we i86 MEMblR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S got on our horses and had a long evening of manoeuvres, about 15,000 men under arms; we did not get back till ten o'clock ; the evening beautiful. July \st, — I was amused at seeing my host and his wife start for a fair in this neighbour- hood in a chariot drawn by three horses abreast, which I think must have been built one of the first of its pattern, for I never saw such a vehicle. I again dined with H.M. and attended the manoeuvres, but was invited before they were over to attend the Queen and Princess to see a fine view from the hills. The evening was very gay and pleasant. July 2nd.^\ wrote all the morning, dinqd with the Prince Royal. Manoeuvres commenced at four and lasted till nine, when we adjourned for supper at H.R.H.'s. Two young men in plain clothes were presented to the Royal Family, who turned out to be the sons of Marshal Ney. The second a fine-looking young man, with a stamp of melan- choly upon his countenance, as if the fate of his unfortunate father was always weighing upon him. The eldest seemed a little pert Frenchman. It is said they are to enter the Swedish service. The Russians looked askance at this young Prince MISSION TO SWEDEN. 187 of Moscow, and pass their sarcastic remarks upon the reception of such persons, and their receiving protection here. Jtily '^rd, — I attended the Prince Royal's review of his old regiment of Hussars. About 800 cavalry- were engaged, and I never saw a better perform- ance. I lunched afterwards with H.R.H., and at four attended the manoeuvres, the whole 16,000 men under arms. Nothing could be better than the movements. The Prince showed military talent, with the calm of an old general. July \th, — This day, the Prince's saint's day, he received us all in full dress. John, the soldier, was presented with the small cross of the Order of the Sword in the most flattering manner by H.M., though our regulations forbid his wearing the deco- ration, so the King said most kindly, " Let him put it upon his toilet table and remember that it was the testimony of my esteem." We dined at the King's ; about 300 sat down, and I had a long conversation of much interest with H.M. At half-past five I rode out to see the troops pass in review, and take leave. They marched past remarkably well ; and we then adjourned with the Queen and Princess Royal to His Royal Highness's 1 88 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S tent, where all the ladies and officers were collected^ Her Majesty having had twenty-eight ladies and only two chamberlains (poor men) at dinner. About nine o'clock we returned home, having taken leave of a number of very fine fellows, brother soldiers, from whom I received unremitting attentions. Indeed, I have experienced nothing but kindness since I landed in their country. Jtdy ^th. — I dined at Court, and had an inte- resting conversation with the King, and likewise with the Queen. Her Majesty, observing the sons of Marshal Ney opposite, said : '' Voila un sort bien different du notre. Je vous avoue, mon General, que je ne suis pas encore familiarisee aux formes et a 1 etiquette qu'il faut observer a la Cour, et je suis enchantee de me trouver ici ou il y a moins qu'a Stockholm."'" The Queen is very amiable, and so natural that I am often greatly pleased with the good sense and feeling she displays. The King expressed his thanks, as well as Her Majesty, that I had remained after the camp to cheer their solitude. * u I own to you, General, that I am not yet familiarised with the formal etiquette which has to be maintained at Court, and I am enchanted to find myself here where there is much less of it than at Stockholm." MISSION TO SWEDEN. 189 July %tk. — We started upon our peregrinations, Gore and Holmes for Gothenburg, my son, my A.D.C., and self, for the Count de la Gardie's, where we arrived In time for dinner. The country very fertile ; no firs, but oaks, beech, and birch. The peasantry were remarkably well clothed, and their habitations comfortable. The men wore large cocked hats, and white coats with full short skirts .coming quite round and closing In front. The women had head-dresses of white linen. This place is entirely the creation of Count de la Gardle, every tree planted by himself, and the soil is so favourable that their growth is surprising. There is a good library, and we have been skimming over a most valuable and curious collection of letters from Charles XII. and from Gustavus. Many of the former dated from Bender ; I should have liked to possess one of them. /tdy ^th. — We made an excursion to Fliizuge, one of the King's principal studs. We saw all the establishment, the best part of which was the riding master's own house. This house is very comfort- able, but not upon a large scale, though the estab- lishment Is extensive. Everything is manufactured at home — boots, shoes, carriages, liveries, etc., etc., 190 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S and also all materials are provided. The peasantry ajDpear very comfortable indeed, and the population quite sufficient. The Count is a most cheerful and agreeable host. He has travelled a great deal, and has a wonderful memory. Charles XI I. 's rocking-horse stood in my ante-room, and I mounted it. 'i^ July \oth, — We departed from this hospitable mansion to go to Helsingfors. About half-way to Lund we crossed a \river, where the Danes and Swedes had a severe/ battle, two days before that of Lund. The pos/ition on both sides was very strong. The King lof Denmark was present at the former but not at tl.he latter battle. At Lund, the Danes were complefctely defeated, and fled (1675). It is said that.-^hfe Danish kind's plate lies now in the river, . and not many years ago the bed was drp'^ged for it ; several guns were found. We went to see the Library, Church, and Observatory. The former contains, we were told, 30,000 volumes, and some manuscripts of old date, but the catalogue gave no account of them, but merely of their con- tents, which is not often of interest. There was a beautiful Virgil on parchment, in MS. The Obser- vatory is small ; the Church curious, but sadly MISSION TO SWEDEN, 191 dilapidated. There is a crypt under the building where service was formerly performed, and from it an underground passage ten miles long, by which the monks used to get away secretly. To me, the most curious thing was a room in a private house, in which Charles XII. lived for two years. It opened on the stable, but this he preferred, and would not lodge in any other room. It was only twelve feet square, and at that time had only one storey. Charles XI I. never enjoyed more comfort, either in food or lodging, than the lowest of his officers. From this place he set out to conquer Norway, where he fell at Fredericshall in 1718. Never was a monarch so beloved, nor one who brought his country so near ruin. It speaks for the veneration in which all hold that dauntless courage with which he was so peculiarly gifted. We prosecuted our journey, dined at Landsnoya, a nice seaport, where we found a good inn, and reached Helsingborg at eight. Inquiries were immediately made after me, and a man waited for us to conduct us to our house, which is large. July iitk — The Admiral Cedestrom gave me a broadside, Chamberlains came from the King, Queen, and Prince and Princess Royal, 192 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S to ask after me, but as I had hurt my knee, I determined to have a good rest, and declined the King's dinner. Jidy \2th. — My knee much better, so I was able to go to the ball at Ramlose, a spa establish- ment about three miles off, where the Prince and Princess Royal resided. It was odd to begin dancing in broad daylight, but we got home -early. Jttly \'^th, — I dined at Ramlose with T.R.H.; 300 persons sat down to table, which was as- tonishingly well served. I had a long conversation with the King about Norway. The Queen was particularly gracious, and pressed me to stay till Friday or Saturday, when a party to the Comte de la Gardie's was to take place, after which we depart for Gothenburg. Jidy \/^th. — I walked with M. Malberg round the town, and he conducted us to a mineral spring in a most romantic situation. We then ascended the hill, from whence there was a very fine view of the Sound and environs. Our conductor told us the story of the last descent of the Danes in 1 7 10, some of the details of which were curious and interesting. They effected a landing near MISSION TO SWEDEN, 193 the town, and the corps (18,000 men) marched in the direction of Lund. There Count Stenbock collected all the scattered troops he could, and gave battle. The fighting continued for three days, always in favour of the Swedes, and the last stand was at this town (Helsingborg), where the Danes were cut to pieces. Their army was commanded by the grandfather of the Count Revenclaud who visited me at the camp. Amongst other curious anecdotes, M. de Malberg mentioned that in 182 1 he built his present house, and in excavating the foundation the bones complete of eighteen Danish horses were found, which had been buried there, their shoes quite perfect and firm on the hoofs. It appeared that the poor animals were destroyed and buried under the gardens and sheds of the town, to the amount of 18,000. July i^tk. — We dined with Baron Stokerin ; a large party, and very merry. Mad. S. is the great blue-stocking of Sweden, and a very agreeable woman. The place, created by themselves, is well- kept and pretty. The house small but very nice, and the grounds well laid out. Jtdy i6tL — I dined with the King, who was VOL. I. o 194 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S pleased to express the very kindest goodwill and feeling towards me, and the satisfaction I have afforded in this country. He added that however highly my representative character was esteemed as the British Minister, that my personal habits and good humour had won the heart of every Swede. When I was going away H.M. desired me to terminate my visit by dining with him. I went to Countess Sparre's, about seven miles off, where the Court and courtiers were all assembled. The Countess was mother to Comtesse de la Gardie. The house was an old mansion surrounded by a moat ; the gardens and pleasure-grounds beautiful, with fine trees, and views of the Cattegat and Castle of Cronberg, the opposite coast of Zealand, the North Sea and Baltic. The Sound at this season being covered with vessels passing to and fro, it would be impossible to gaze on more beautiful scenery. Vistas were cut to show the finest features, and the grounds were beautifully diversi- fied, and the water extensive, at least two miles in length ; but the old lady attended the Queen all the way. The evening was very fine, and refreshments were prepared under the trees. The peasants collected in their costumes, which produced a charming effect. There were some good pictures MISSION TO SWEDEN, 195 in the house, but I had not time to examine them. The King, Queen, and Prince and Princess Royal took leave of me and were most kind. The King at parting said : " Venez chez moi pour un moment avant de partir." All my Swedish friends took leave of me, and the Prince said : '' Tout le monde vous aime." Jtdy iJtL — We crossed at six a.m. to Elsinore to pay our visit to Mr. Foster. The passage very agreeable in spite of a foul wind. The Fenwick family were delighted to see me, and had an excellent breakfast ready, and the carriage at the door. We arrived at Mr. Foster s while they were at breakfast. Their house, about ten miles from Elsinore, overlooked the Sound and Baltic, and commanded a grand view of Helsingborg and Elsinore, the situation very fine. We passed an agreeable morning, and Frederick Stewart (after- wards Lord Castlereagh) joined us. We took our leave about eight o'clock. Foster conducted us by a bad but pretty beach road, and we reached Elsinore about ten, and crossed in twenty-five minutes with a fine breeze, very glad to find myself at home, but more glad to find the mail which awaited me. o 2 196 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S July \%th. — I took leave of the King, who was most kind. He still pressed me to stay, and asked me to wait for him at Gotheburg. We had a long and most interesting conversation. In talking over his origin he mentioned his unwillingness at the time to accept the crown of Sweden, but that Bonaparte having endeavoured to counteract his election he resolved to accept. He mentioned his independence: '' cent milHers de rente sans dettes, et les coffres remplis. Qu'il avait une campagne, que sa femme et lui avaient beaucoup embellie, et qu'ils n'avaient qu'Oscar." '" He then narrated an anec- dote of the Prince when eleven years old. The King and Queen were walking in the gardens of this same campagne, Oscar holding his father's left hand. '' II faisait bien chaud, et I'enfant etait en petite jaquette. Je m'imagine voir dans ce moment ses petites bretelles; et I'enfant entendant sa mere et moi parler de la Suede et de ses malheurs, nous regarda et dit : ' Papa, ne voulez-vous pas pro- curer le bonheur de ce brave peuple ? ' Mon General, j'6tais si frappe des pensees et des idees * " One hundred thousand a year without debts and the coffers filled. That he had a country house which his wife and he had greatly embellished, and no child but Oscar." MISSION TO SWEDEN, 197 que mon enfant venait d'enoncer que je vous declare qu'elles ont beaucoup influenc6es ma decision." "' We spoke much about politics, and altogether my visit was most interesting and agreeable. We started after dinner for Hatensbad, where we intended sleeping ; passed a beautifully diversified country, and crossed a very high hill, from which the view was splendid. Zealand was still in sight, and the full expanse of the Cattegat; the interior was wild and interesting. The town of Ingelholm, situated on a fine river, is a feature worthy of any country. The banks of the river were well planted, and the trees feathering to the water, with the finest possible verdure. Near this place the King has a country house. Halmstad is a small seaport, with a fine river passing through the town. It is also a bathing-place, and un- fortunately for us, was so full that we could scarcely get a corner to lodge in; however, we * "The weather was very hot, and the child had on a Hght jacket. I fancy I see him and his Httle braces; and the child hearing his mother and me speak of Sweden and her mis- fortunes, he looked at us and said : ' Papa, will you not make the happiness of that brave people ? ' General, I was so struck with 1:he thoughts my child gave utterance to, I declare they greatly influenced my decision." 198 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S were packed away in a private house, and feeling somewhat hungry, we wandered to the inn, and found our way by John's pilotage to the kitchen, where an old lady was just taking a fine salmon out of the boiler, which we instantly began to devour ct la turque with our fingers, to the in- finite surprise of the cook and other bystanders. We then carried it off to a room, and satisfied our appetites with some good bread and butter. JtUy igtk, — We breakfasted at 5.30 a.m., and started soon after. The road was very pretty, and the country beautifully varied, wild but richly cultivated ; John compared it to Anglesea, I thought justly. We dined at Warberg, and reached Gothe- burof at nine o'clock. The entrance to the town is pretty : rocky scenery enclosing a rich valley, through which passes the canal with the road by its side. The rocks are very abrupt and the scenery quite romantic. July 20th. — I received the Governor and all his officers and chiefs of the garrison, and was invited to dine with the Governor. I walked about a little ; the town was burnt about twenty years since, and the consequence is the houses are uniform and the streets spacious. In every MISSION TO SWEDEN, 199 Street there is a run of water deep enough for boats, and the quays are very good, the fronts of the houses having quite sufficient room both for convenience and traffic. The Gotha river bounds the town, but is not navigable for large ships nearer than two miles. We visited the great cistern, which is a very useful work by which the town is supplied with the finest water. It is conducted in pipes from a hill four miles from the town, which being higher than the houses, the water rises to the upper floors. All the merchants called upon me, full of thankfulness for my exertions on their behalf and for the success which has attended them. In truth, I acknowledge that by the most resolute perseverance, I have forced the S. Govt, to render that justice which had been so long withheld. I was invited by these gentlemen to dinner. About forty persons were collected at ' the Governor's to meet and welcome me. My health was drunk after dinner, and everyone seemed eager to manifest respect and attention. I paid Sir Humphrey Davy a visit, who was indisposed, but most agreeable. 2 00 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S DESPATCH NO. 29. TO MR. CANNING. " GOTTENBURG, ////y 20, 1824. *' I have the satisfaction to acquaint you that at twelve o'clock this day the British mer- chants resident here waited upon me, and were earnest in the expressions of gratitude for the benefits arising to them from your late arrange- ments as connected with the commerce of the two countries, admitting that nothing more could be done until the New Tariff shall appear. On the other hand I find that the Swedish merchants are by no means satisfied, and anticipate the complete extinction of the share they have hitherto enjoyed in their commercial intercourse with Great Britain," etc., etc. DESPATCH NO. 30. TO MR. CANNING. " Gotten BURG, yz//v 20, 1824. '' From all that has lately passed, it would appear that the King has literally no voice in the Norwegian Constitution, as the Storthing would, if they thought it necessary, attempt to curtail even his prerogative of edicts. *' You will still be more surprised when I acquaint you that two-thirds of the Norwegian Parliament MISSION TO SWEDEN, 201 is absolutely composed of officers of the Crown, all of whom can be removed at pleasure from His Majesty's service. As politicians they are not unlike a child with a new toy, having but just escaped from the most absolute despotism." DIARY. Jttly 21st. — I visited the Arsenal of Artillery and the Hospital. The streets are spacious, and the houses uniformly built. I dined with Mr. Barclay, the principal British merchant; the Governor and all the authorities came there to meet me. After dinner, the Governor took me in his barge on the River Gotha. We rowed to the port, about two miles. The river is sufficiently deep at the port for any ship, and sloops of 150 tons can come up to the town. We went on board a Swedish man-of-war, and were saluted with twenty guns. The river is fine, its banks fertile, and bounded by abrupt rocky hills. July 22nd. — I rode with the Russian Consul, and went to the Telegraph, from whence there IS a good view of the port and roadstead, and also the course of the River Gotha. We continued our ride through very wild and varied scenery, rich with verdure and trees, and saw several very nice 202 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S country houses. We went to a magazine, formerly a block-house, from whence we had a fine panoramic view of the town. I dined with M. Bonen. His daughter was a fine musician, and very accom- plished. Mrs. Bonen was a botanist, and had some fine flowers. July 2'^rd, — I saw the Theatre, which is very pretty, but too large. I also saw the Artillery School for soldiers' children, conducted upon the Lancastrian system, well attended ; the children looked clean and healthy ; about seventy were being educated there. I dined with Mrs. Dixon — a very gay party. On my return from paying a visit to the Prince Royal, I found that the British Factory had prepared a petition, begging to place me at their head as an hon. member. I half promised to return and accept a public dinner. July 2/i^th. — I started for Christiania, via Veners- borg. I found the road good, and beautifully varied. We dined at a village on the banks of the Gotha, opposite a very picturesque scene of hill, rocks, and pine-trees, where there was a pretty fall of about twelve feet, upon which are several saw-mills. The volume of water rushing through the rocks afforded us great delight. We pursued our way to Trol- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 203 hatte, where the falls, five in number, are magni- ficent. The fiary with which the water rushes through this confined passage is very imposing ; the whole descent is 128 feet, broken by immense rocks, with some trees upon them, where no human foot has ever trod. The banks are very high and bold. We walked about two miles about this grand scenery ; the canal passes on one side, and presents the opposite effect of perfect calm, the banks beautifully green and undulated. This extraordinary contrast of scenery is scarcely 300 yards' distance. We slept at Wennersborg, where we found an excellent inn, kept by a Hanoverian master and an Irish landlady from Mallow. I travelled with Captain John ; my son and Frederick Stewart remained to fish at the falls, but were unsuccessful, though hope kept them on the banks till nightfall. Most of the day's journey was along the banks of the Gotha, which is a fine clean river, running through verdant fields in some places, in others the most rugged cliffs obstruct its course, so the traveller is kept in a state of pleasing excitement by the perpetual change of scene. The town of Wennersborg is pretty enough, situated at the extremity of Lake Vennern, from whence the Gotha begins its course. 204 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S We crossed a long bridge, and ascended a hill on the opposite side, from whence we had an excellent view of the town and this magnificent lake, the largest in Europe. We had an excellent dinner, which, for the whole party, cost the large sum of four shillings. We proceeded prosperously till our little travel- ling machine was upset, though luckily no damage was done ; the accident happened at the beginning of the most tremendous hill I ever crossed. We were obliged to tie the wheels together, as well as put on the drag chains, and with much difficulty reached the bottom, where we found as steep an ascent on the other side ; however, we got up it and proceeded. At length we reached the hill of Fredericstein, the memorable spot where Charles XII. was killed. Here we jumped down, and flew to the place, which is indicated by a stone, upon which is inscribed: '' Ch. 12. T. Beteyringen mod Frederickstein, nth December, 1718." We could not accurately judge the distance of this spot from the Fort, but it appeared to the Captain and myself a very long range for a musket-shot. This point is contested, and one of the reasons urged for its having been a foul assassination is the distance MISSION TO SWEDEN. 205 of the work where alone the enemy was posted. We naturally stayed some time at this renowned spot, from whence there is a very fine extensive view. One looks down upon a beautiful valley, through which runs a river. We walked to the town of Frederickshall. On arriving at an archway, where the Custom-house officers demand one's passport, the finest view opened out before us, and we all stood still as if by instinct, so struck were we. The fortress crowns a very high rock, somewhat resembling Ehrenbreitstein. The town below one, and a magnificent harbour and great expanse of sea, bounded by high rocky promontories. Many vessels in the harbour ; and the environs of the town dis- played varied verdure and unproductive mountain,, occasionally wooded. We all agreed that this was the most striking and imposing scene we ever wit- nessed, and I assure you I felt quite bewildered by it, and my son was delighted. The descent to the town is tremendously steep, but we got down safe, and had a very fine blackcock with our tea. Jtcly 26tk. — We started early for Christiania. The road very picturesque, though our distant view of Frederickshall was lost owing to the fog which enveloped the fortress. We proceeded to 2o6 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Frederickstadt, a pretty fortified town on the banks of the Glommen. This fine river is navigable to this town, and some large ships were lying at anchor there. We crossed the ferry, and went on to Mass, where we found some pretty cascades and picturesque scenery. We dined at Dilligen on some excellent salmon, fowls, and potatoes, and went on to Christiania, but the roads were so heavy from the rain that we stuck fast for an hour, and only arrived at midnight. Having arranged to lodge at the Consul's, we found all ready, and very com- fortable. July 2']th. — This proved to be a very nice place in the country, the house situated in a pretty garden. We walked to the town, saw the Palaces, which were originally good private houses, visited the fortress, and ascended the tower, from whence we had a fine view of the town and magnificent port. The town is neat and well paved — about 19,000 inhabitants. The port is beautifully sprinkled with islands and full of ships. There is a nice little flower garden opposite the King's Palace, and a '' pavilion " over the sea, the place of embarkation for the Royal Family. We saw their fine boat with a large covered cabin, well MISSION TO SWEDEN. 207 fitted up, and rowing fourteen oars. One of the King's boats was ordered to be in readiness for me in the evening. Formerly the kings resided in the fort, where we saw a very fine dining- room, now used as an armoury. We saw 191 prisoners confined for various periods, 37 for Hfe. The sentence of murder, unless attended by burglary, is sometimes commuted to imprisonment for life and hard labour in the fortress. Baron Wedel, who commanded here, had lately estab- lished a system of industry among these unfor- tunate prisoners, which was admirable. Every man works at his trade, and is provided with tools and materials, and those who have no trade are instructed, so that everyone was employed. The produce had not been offered for sale, but there was a well-stored magazine, and the Baron hoped those prisoners who were confined for short periods would return to society, capable of becom- ing useful members and with a little capital to begin life again in their respective trades. The money realised by the sale of goods was to be deposited in the savings bank, and every farthing turned to account. I was presented with a curious machine for conveying despatches, which 2o8 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S is carried by the peasants through the country. It has a spike at one end, and if the bearer does not find his neighbour at home he sticks the machine in his door and leaves it. This is con- sidered so sacred that it never fails in reaching its destination, and is seldom delayed, for the moment the peasant returns and finds his door occupied he starts off instantly to the next stage. In the evening I was rowed in the harbour, and then to an island about a mile off The water close to the town is deep enough for any merchant ships, and two hundred yards off for frigates. The whole English navy might ride at anchor com- pletely landlocked. We landed on the island and had a grand view of the port sprinkled with islands ; the town and fort upon a rocky eleva- tion had an admirable effect. The environs of the town are fine, intermixed with rocks, pine- trees, and wooded hills. The hills higher than those in Sweden, but they are not mountains. Jtdy 2?>tL — I received the Counsellors of State and other authorities, and went to the Storthing (Norwegian Parliament), where there was a debate, but none of the speakers spoke for above five minutes. There was a division, so I witnessed MISSION 10 SWEDEN. 209 all the forms of the House. The hall is very commodious, and a place is set apart for the Corps Diplomatique, also a large gallery for non-members. Nothing could equal the order and attention shown — not a whisper was heard. The deputies are of different classes, several peasants, in their national costumes, among the aristocracy, so that there was a curious mixture, which made one realise the independence of the system. One of the peasants was considered a very clever man ; and they usually vote against all money grants. Any member of the Government is disqualified for a seat in the Storthing, so that there is no influen- tial party. At the opening of the session every deputy has a place assigned to him, so that there is never the least confusion. Two-thirds must be assembled to be competent to act. This day the division was 45 against 25 ; the whole House being only 75, only 5 were absent. During the debate one member went out, and my neigh- bour told me he was a clergyman, and that when- ever the Storthing is dissolved this poor individual will take at least four months to reach his parish. Two dollars a day is allowed each member by the State, out of which the peasants save one-half. VOL. I.' p 2IO MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S After dinner I renewed my acquaintance with Count Wedel, the greatest man in Norway, who dined with us, and invited me to make a two days' excursion and make his house our head- quarters. We visited the Library, which is not remarkable. The University consists of 500 students, and is much protected by the King and the authorities. I was attended by all the pro- fessors. Mineralogy, natural history, and indeed all the branches of science were exhibited with much effect. We next went to the botanical garden. Monsieur Rathe, director of this depart- ment, has great merit, and is much esteemed. The garden, though only established eight years, was in admirable order, and everything seemed to thrive well — grapes and peaches in the open air. The large greenhouse was kept to a sufficient degree of heat chiefly by double windows. The scientific plants were all classified in the order laid down by Linnaeus, so that the students of this branch have every facility given them. I drank tea with Madame de Wedel, a very fine woman and very agreeable. The manners of the Nor- wegians are extremely cordial and hospitable, with less form than in Sweden. For the first time I MISSION TO SWEDEN. 211 observed lemons upon the tea-table instead of cream and sugar. The gentlemen often added rum, which made excellent tea-punch. /idy 2()tk — We dined with the First Minister of State, Monsieur Collet — an immense dinner, to which all the great folks were invited to meet me. My health was drunk after dinner in a most flattering manner. p 2 CHAPTER VIL Visit to Baron Wedel's — Expedition to Nordenborg — Mad. Anna Cobiornsen — Visit to the Military Academy at Christiania — Dissolution of the Storthing — Departure from Christiania — Falls of the Glommen — Uddevalla — Visit to Count Wetter- stedt's at Finspong — Return to Stockholm. fuly ^oth, — We started at five o'clock to see the neighbourhood, and the scenery was certainly some of the most magnificent and varied I ever saw. My son declares that in all his travels he has never been so struck. Baron Wedel Jarlsberg conducted us to his brother, Count Wedel's, about ten English miles off. We travelled in six carriages of the country, low and commodious, carrying some two, some three persons. The pace the ponies took us was wonderful, in spite of tremendous hills. In about an hour we arrived at Berum, having coasted along this grand inlet of the sea, and passed very pretty country houses and gardens kept in beautiful order. The Count received us LORD BLOOMFIELUS MISSION TO SWEDEN. 213 most cordially ; no form, nothing but real hospitality and a desire to please. The house is situated close to a delightful stream which turns the mills above, where great iron works are carried on. The foundry is not more than 200 yards from the house, which is commodious without pretension. The Count was educated in England, and spoke our language perfectly. The halls and outer rooms were full of English engravings, amongst them the Royal Academy at Woolwich, where my early days were spent. It brought not unpleasing re- collections to my mind. This establishment belonged to His Ex. Mons. Anker, the greatest man in Sweden, whose only child the Count married. The works employ 500 persons day and night. Opposite the house and across the river there was a beautifully planted hill, making a charming view. At 7.30 we left this spot, and crossing a bridge there is a most picturesque and varied coup cToeil] looking up the stream, whose banks are verdant, was a mill busy at work. The distant hills covered with pines, and smoke issuing from invisible cottages in the forests, giving an idea of habitations even in these impenetrable wilds. Opposite was a perpendicular rocky hill 2 14 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S with verdant meadows at its base. The sun shone brightly, giving a sensation of genial warmth that added greatly to the deliciousness of the scene. After contemplating it for a few minutes, we pro- ceeded over some wild hills ; the roads, however, were very good, and the horses uncommonly safe and gentle. They carried us over all sorts of inequalities without making a false step, and were driven very fast up hill and down dale with a loose rein. It, however, requires good nerves to sit quietly by the side of a Norwegian coachman. The Count drove me all day, and we continued our route through wooded hills, with occasional distant views of cultivated valleys sprinkled with cottages. The peasants seemed very well off, and have plenty of bread and milk, with occasionally fish and meat. They were not as well clad as the Swedes, and sometimes reminded me of poor Ireland! The race is not stout or tall but very active, and capable of enduring great fatigue. We travelled on till we unexpectedly arrived in the midst of about a dozen of the little vehicles of the country preparing to descend a tremendous mountain. I was yet unaware of the call for the precautions which the poor peasants were taking, but soon saw their necessity. We dis- MISSION' TO SWEDEN. 215 mounted from our carriages and proceeded on foot for about twenty paces, when a most unique view opened out before us called Krogleven. The road appeared cut through a great rocky mountain, but the opening is natural, and a little streamlet rippled at our side. The hills on both sides covered with wood, and the steepness of the descent was ex- cessive ; a little further on a vast expanse opened to our view, which, though spotted with hills of a considerable height, appeared almost like a plain, with a magnificent lake of great extent covering the low lands in such a way that when one descends lower the water looks like many lakes from the various directions it takes, broken by high pro- montories. We were arrested here for some time seeing the different points of view, which no description can give an adequate idea of We at length arrived at an inn at the bottom 'of the descent, where the Count had provided a most excellent ddjeuner, and found we were about twenty-four miles from Christiania, which we had accomplished by ten o'clock. After surveying the picturesque site of the inn, we started afresh, crossed various causeways, and travelled through a fine undulating country, much cultivated, and 2i6 . MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S containing a considerable population. In half-an- hour we reached a very pretty church and parson- age, and called upon the clergyman and his wife. He was not at home, but his lady received us with Norwegian hospitality, and we were ushered into the very room which was the scene of the following bold and intrepid stratagem : In the year 1716, when Charles XII. invaded Norway, he sent a detachment to destroy the silver works of Kongsberg. On this expedition was engaged about 800 cavalry, who were quartered at Nordenborg (the name of the parish and church). In the neighbourhood was stationed a small detach- ment of Norwegians to watch the enemy. The clergyman's wife, Mrs. Anna Cobiornsen, over- hearing the conversation and plan of attack intended for the next day, resolved to apprise her country- men, and manifesting the greatest show of a desire to provide as well as she could for her unexpected guests, asked permission of the Swedish commander, Colonel Loeven, to send out a servant for the pur- pose of collecting provisions. This servant the clergyman's wife instructed to give information to the chief of the little Norwegian corps, and, hav- ing made the Swedes drunk, she put their horses MISSION TO SWEDEN. 217 loose in the fields, and was rewarded for her wonderful presence of mind by the arrival of her countrymen without discovery, who took the Swedish Colonel prisoner, and cut to pieces or put to flight the whole corps. This, with much more detail of her extraordinary courage, is recorded, and prints of the scene are still to be had. The room in which this scene took place is unaltered ; several shot-holes remain in the walls. The good old lady now its proprietress gave us some large bumpers of claret, and wished us a good journey, desiring very much, apparently, to do by us as her predecessor had done by her Swedish visitors. We went to the church, which is a remarkably neat place of worship, and in good repair, where we saw the tomb of Anne Colbiornsen, her name and the foregoing anecdote simply recorded. We proceeded to the falls of Honefossen, which are very romantic, but the season having been unusually dry, there was very little water, though at no time could the mass of water be imposing or sufficient for a grand effect. Its descent is much broken by rocks, and picturesque, and the quantity of small mills gave an air of activity to the scene, which enlivened it. We then retraced 2i8 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S our steps ; the scenery returning was equally striking, especially Krogleven, which we ascended in about an hour. At the top we rejoined the carriages we had left there, and returned to Berum. At our dining place came up three English travellers, a father and two sons. They had made considerable progress to Bergen, but said they were not repaid for the fatigues and privations of such a journey. They would not present themselves to me, but at the next stage we overtook them, and the old gentleman was just packing himself up in his single-seated carriage. I could not help going up to him and saying : *' How do you do, sir ? Though you are not disposed to acknowledge the Represen- tative of your country, he is always proud to make acquaintance with Englishmen whenever he meets them." He was ashamed of himself, and offered his apologies. I was so mischievous that I could not resist saying he had lost an excellent dinner. We reached Berum, where we saw an interesting cast at the foundry, and then proceeded to Bogstadt, M. Anker's country seat. He was a remarkable gentleman of the best old school, about seventy-four years old. He and his daughter, the Countess Wedel, received us most cordially at the doors and MISSION TO SWEDEN. 219 conducted us to the saloon. The entrance was very fine, the walls covered with pictures collected by His Excellency in Italy. After a most hospitable supper, we retired to a nice apartment which had been prepared for me. July ^is^. — After breakfast we looked over the rooms, which were spacious and well-furnished, and the Countess conducted me through the oflfices, which were beautifully clean and well-distributed. The garden over the lake was lovely, and all the windows looked that way. The stables for thirty horses, fine harness-room, and cow-houses for fifty cows, were all as nice as possible, and there were delightful pleasure-grounds connecting the house with the lake. The house stood upon a kind of knoll projecting into the lake, and planted in good taste with shrubs and trees. At twelve we took a ride to pay Baron Wedel a visit, about four miles off; the ride was delightful, and the views of Christiania and the sea very fine. On our return we paid old General Anker a visit. He spent twenty years in India as Governor of the Danish possessions there ; being a fine draftsman he made drawings of many interesting places there, and was most entertaining and in- 2 20 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S structive. His house was in a fine situation, commanding all the grand scenery of that neigh- bourhood, including the branch of the sea coming to Christiania, and exhibited with peculiar effect the numberless islands it contains. The collection of books was considerable, and there were some of the most curious idols that have ever been brought to Europe. We returned homewards for the very superfluous performance of dinner ; about thirty were assembled, and our dinner was most agreeable. In the afternoon the Count and Countess took me round the gardens and shrubbery, which were kept a ranglaise. Indeed, they declared their ambition was to copy my country in all their household arrangements. Augttst ist. — The sons of the Count and Countess returned from the chase, having spent three days in the woods. They brought back some hares and blackcocks. I rode for four hours, and visited a labourer's house, which was most comfortable. The owner possessed two cows, a horse, three pigs, and two sheep. The house was as neat as possible, and the beds looked clean and good. I also visited the barn, which was an ornamental building with a cupola, in MISSION TO SWEDEN, 221 which is a tea-room, from which there is a fine view of all the surrounding country. After dinner we took our leave, as I had to receive the Crown Prince at Christiania ; but having waited in vain till half-past eleven I went to bed, and scarcely was I there before the guns began saluting. August 2nd, — I received a note with H.R. H/s desire to see me, to present Lord Castlereagh at one o'clock, and an invitation to dinner after- wards. Two peasant members of the Storthing dined in their costumes, white coats, etc., and I was introduced to them after dinner. One was the clever man I spoke of at my visit to the Storthing. He came from Bergen, and said he should not return, but was pleased to see the English Minister. Our conversation lasted for half-an-hour, and he spoke sensibly about his country and its internal affairs. August ^th, — I visited the Military Academy, which seemed to be on an admirable footing. The professors are military men, well instructed in the theory of their profession, and, during the examination of the young men, appeared admirably qualified for their office. All the different branches 22 2 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S of the service were examined, and the cadets had certainly advanced in them quite adequately to their age and the period of their instruction. Commissions in the army are given to these candidates as soon as they complete the course prescribed, whether there be vacancies or not. We saw them perform various gymnastic exer- cises, where they displayed great activity. We then went to the Arsenal, and saw two artillery p'uns eo throuQfh some evolutions. The Prince o o o Royal was pleased, and addressing himself to me, said: "lis sont de braves gens." In truth they appeared an excellent lot of people, simple in their habits, and yet very independent. After dinner I sat next the Princess, who prattled away in English wonderfully well. I was summoned to accompany the Prince on the violoncello. We played some of his compositions, which were very pretty. The Princess and one of her ladies played afterwards. She was a good musician, and had just imported a very fine pianoforte from London. After our little concert I accompanied the Prince on horseback to General Hackshausen's, a very pretty country house, with nice gardens and pleasure-grounds, with beau- tiful views of the Gulf and neio^hbourhood. When MISSION TO SWEDEN, 223 I took leave the Prince asked what we should do on the morrow, saying, ''Toujours la meme cuisine ne vaut rien," and asked whether I had any ob- jection to dining early at his little campagne. I bowed, and of course accepted the invitation. The weather was very hot. August 6tk, — I saw some merchants, and dis- cussed our trade interests ; dined at the Prince's campagne — a large party — and after dinner the Corps des Cadets was paraded in front of the house. It put me in mind of olden days ; some very little fellows handled their fusees as expertly as their older comrades. After performing their usual evo- lutions they marched off to an excellent dinner in one of the alleys in the garden, where they handled their knives and forks quite as well as their muskets. After a walk in the pleasure-grounds we adjourned to a theatrical performance by a Danish actor, who gave us several scenes in the Barbier de S(^ville, Don Juan, and other operas. He had a very good voice, and his acting was above mediocrity ; the orchestra was composed of amateurs, and very toler- able ; the theatre a pretty little one — private pro- perty — holding, they said, 600 people. August Zth, — I dined at Mr. Anker's with 2 24 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the Court, and began to regret my approaching separation from these good people. The day was extremely hot, which gave additional agrc^nicnt to the fine lake and the rich foliage which surrounded us. Sixty persons at dinner ; all kindness from the Prince and Princess, as well as the society. After the Prince's health was drunk I received a well- turned compliment from the old gentleman, Mr. Anker, which was re-echoed, and my health was drunk. Castlereagh had a fine ducking : he fell overboard in full dress, but being an excellent swim- mer, scon got to shore, and after all idea of danger was over the scene was amusing. He was soon furnished with a fresh wardrobe, and appeared in Norwegian costume. Presently a band struck up a waltz, and the Princess led off a merry dance, and in the prettiest manner came and engaged me herself In the course of the evening we heard the anecdote of a man who, like Castlereagh, fell into the water ; Count d'Ohssen, who was present, observed : '' Ma foi, c'est une drole de maniere de meler son vin avec de I'eau."* After the Royal Family departed. Countess Wedel dressed herself * "Faith, that's a comical way of mixing wine and water." MISSION TO SWEDEN, 225 up to amuse me in the costume of a peasant of the neighbourhood of Bergen. The dress was very pretty ; colours not gay, but tastefully embroidered. The outside was brown cloth, with a spencer inside worked in very pretty patterns, which they wear with linen sleeves in summer. They also wear a band of gilt studs upon red cloth, and a very fine necklace. AtLgust (jtL — I attended the Storthing. We were placed in a box set apart for us next the Princess, and we were much interested in the ceremony. The room is the segment of a circle where are the seats of the Deputies. The auditors are in a gallery above. The opposite centre was occupied by the Royal seat, simply decorated in crimson velvet and gold. Here stood the Viceroy, H.R.H. the Prince Royal; opposite to him, and in front of the Deputies was placed the President, and behind the Prince was his household ; on his right the Counsellors of State, and on his left the town authorities. The streets were lined with troops from the Palace to the House of Parliament, and at one the procession moved. It was formed by the town authorities, closed by the Prince. The day was beautiful. The President of the VOL. I. Q 2 26 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Council read the King's authority to the Prince to dissolve the Storthing (Parliament), and H.R.H. then read His Majesty's speech, couched in the usual form of approval of the industry of the session, and the wisdom displayed by the members in administering to the calls of the State. They were about now to return to their homes to dis- seminate a spirit of loyalty, love of order and subordination. This was announced by the President, in a speech full of expressions of devo- tion to the reigning family, and gratitude to the King for his paternal solicitude in all that affected the honour, happiness, and prosperity of his Norwegian dominions. It ended with a sort of cheer, and we retired after H.R.H., who bowed to 2is. We dined at Court, where the whole Storthing was assembled, and I underwent an extensive introduction to its members. We sat down about 150. I made most particular ac- quaintance with the peasants, of which about twelve were members of the Storthing. They gazed at the British Minister as if he was a wild beast. The whole scene was so novel that I was much amused ; my health was drunk, and I was thanked for visiting their ''poor country." MISSION TO SWEDEN. 227 My visit appears to have given great pleasure to this good people. In the evening I supped with the Prince and Princess, and expressed my sense of all their goodness to me and my young men. All the Court took leave of me quite as a friend. Attgust lotL — We left Christiania, the Consul attending me the first stage. From the high mountain of Egleberg near the town we had the fine view so justly celebrated. The port, the capital, and all the islands were visible, and give a most charming variety. We continued our route to Frederickshall by Halfslund (the five falls of the Glommen), crossed the river a little below, which is navigable for large ships, and several were then loading timber ; the river was not above 200 yards wide, bounded on each side by high rocks. The fall is very grand, though not more than fifty feet high ; the mass of water consider- able, but the banks have nothing to recommend them, so the falls alone are worth notice. The spot is full of saw-mills and workmen's cottages. A Monsieur de Rohde had lately purchased this property, and had a magnificent house upon it. The gardens very good, with a fine selection of flowers. Q 2 228 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S On arriving at Frederickshall we were met by my courier with a invitation from a M. Taub, the greatest proprietor in the neighbourhood, to engage us to stop at his house, but we decHned, being unwilHng to disturb his household at the early hour we had to start ; but I had hardly got to bed when a letter came to say that the road to the valley and falls in the neighbourhood being indifferent, M. Taub should send his carriaee and horses at four a.m. to await my orders, which was most civil and kind. We accordingly rose at four. The road over high hills, and on the opposite side of the valley was the platform described in my account of the place where Charles XII. was killed. The view of the town and port was very fine, and about three English miles distance we reached a most picturesque spot shut in by high and unexpected cliffs, and the fall cannot be less than loo feet. The valley was deliciously verdant, and the mills all showed great activity. The logs of wood that float down the river from the interior are collected at a sort of immense pond above, and each pro- prietor seeks his property, which is ascertained by marks on the timber. Then the logs are con- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 229 ducted to the owner's mill by a curious aqueduct. It being on a great descent, the rapidity with which the timber floats when launched in this aqueduct is surprising. The aqueduct is only about three feet wide. The trees are cut down in the interior of the forests, and launched into the river to find their own way. Their passage through the great cataracts is very striking. They are so knocked against the rocks that a whole tree is often dashed out of the water, seemingly playing antics like a large fish. The ends of the timber are quite rounded by beating against the banks and rocks on the passage. We returned to Frederickshall alonof the banks of a sweet stream sometimes enveloped in trees, and at others bounded by the most desolate perpendicular rocks. We derived so much pleasure from this delightful excursion, we determined to call on M. Taub to leave our cards and express our thanks. He was, however, up, and came to welcome us, insisting upon our coming in, and expressing great regret that we had passed him by without taking advantage of his hospitable offer. He was evidently very proud of his place, and not without reason. It overlooks the inlet by which all the trade of Frederickshall 2 30 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S passes, and which is rarely without vessels of con- siderable burthen. The scenery, except the place itself, is the wildest imaginable, but the soil about the residence very productive. The trees, including oaks, very fine, and the gardens well laid out. The rocks rose behind the house, and the view of Frederickshall and the surrounding country perfect. After taking leave of our kind host, and wandering for an hour in his pleasure-grounds, we pursued our route to Swinsund, the Swedish frontier, where we found a bridge of boats. The navigation is not 200 yards across, and the mountains almost perpendicular. There happened to be a large ship just coming in, which enriched this wild scene by the most extraordinary contrast one could imagine. The distance from Frederickshall, about sixteen miles, is chiefly through this sort of narrow strait. We took our leave of Norway with extreme regret. The road after crossing the bridge was ex- tremely steep, and we had the greatest difficulty in getting the carriages up. Force of men accom- plished our purpose, and the view from the top was wonderful. We dined at Ouistrom, the road dreary and desolate almost all the way. The situation of Quistrom, on the bank of a beautiful AflSSION TO SWEDEN. - 231 river over which there is a handsome bridge, was unique. The river being remarkable for fishing, Castlereagh and John remained behind, and had excellent sport. Captain John and I proceeded to Uddevalla, where the King had ordered the Governor to provide the best house in the town for me. The scenery about Ouistrom was beautifully rich and well-wooded. At^gtist i2tk. — In this little retired place, Uddevalla, I had leisure to reflect on the many happy I2ths of August I had celebrated; however, I kept the day and drank the King's health in a bumper. J. B. and I rode to Gustavenberg, a small bathing-place. The situation is charming ; the sea washes the spot, but it is so sheltered, the water can never be ruffled. We had hardly finished our dinner, when I had visits from the Governor, Count Rosen, Mr. Barclay, a Gothen- burg merchant, and Mr. Erskine. August i^tk. — We reached Ludkoping, a pretty town, with a fine river which falls into the Lake Wenern. We slept at Marienstedt, where we found excellent accommodation. August i6tk. — About two miles from the town we passed the great canal, which is a fine work. 232 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S We proceeded to Segusjo, Colonel Montgomery's hospitable mansion, where we were most cordially welcomed. August ijth, — Heavy storms. August \Zth, — Several carriages arrived with company. I think the Swedish ladies must be famous housewives, for all these unexpected visitors make no commotion in the. mansion. August \<^th. — A beautiful morning. I had a long walk to the farm and poultry-yard, where last year they killed no less than 450 chickens ! They have quite a fine residence, heated with stoves, etc. I received a letter from Lord Prudhoe, who was going to the mines, after which I hope to see him. Count Wetterstedt desired to receive . him at Finsborg, and I should like him to see Swedish country life. We drove to a chalybeate sulphur spring upon the Colonel's estate much frequented by the poor, who hang their crutches upon a large tree when they are cured. The Countess had erected a large temporary room for Divine service every Sunday. Boards of orders hang round the room subjecting those who drink too much brandy, or otherwise misconduct themselves, to fines and penalties. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 233 August 22nd. — We drove to Vinone, and arrived at the church during the service. The effect of the congregation in their national costumes was novel and imposing. The men sat on one side of the church, the women on the other ; they appeared very devout, and the white head-dresses and dresses with yellow petticoats was striking. The men wore white cloth coats cut straight and long, with blue cuffs. The coat hooks down the breast like a lancer's jacket, and they wore great parti-coloured gloves coming half up the arm, which held their prayer - books and pocket- handkerchief. The church was very handsome, fitted up in white and gold, and the communion service was touching. The organ a very fine one. We afterwards went with the Comte de Bonde to his chateau close by. The facade is 220 feet, and there was a large centre with two wings. We met a Swedish poet at dinner, and the son of the murderer of Gustavus III. DESPATCH NO. 38. TO MR. CANNING. ^'Orebro, August 21^ 1824. '' Sir, '' The only circumstance which has occurred worthy of notice since the King's return to his 234 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S capital is the payment in full of the claims of the Vasa family, viz. : 600,000 Hamburg Banco dollars, which sum was deposited in the hands of the Russian Minister, General Suchetelen, about a week since. ... I ought perhaps here to observe that Sweden becoming a party to the Treaty (Slave Trade) is an act of pure desire to manifest its devotedness to our views in all that can contribute to draw the two countries nearer together and in more strict alliance, not that any power can hold in greater horror the odious traffic, but from the persuasion that a Swedish case will never arise." Atigust 2()th, — I took leave of my hospitable host and hostess ; dined at the Count de Bonde's, who had lately become possessor of a fine group by Bostrum, a Venus and Cupid. We pursued our journey to Finspong, where we were most hospitably welcomed by Count and Countess Wetterstedt, and at last got news of the truant sportsmen, Castlereagh and John, who have been waiting for a bear-hunt, and had good sport. Castlereagh shot the young Prince de la Moskowa (Ney), but did not hurt him much. Count MISSION TO SWEDEN, 235 Wetterstedt was one of the most delip^htful com- o panions, both for agr^ment and instruction, I ever met. August 3ii-/. — I walked through the gardens and pleasure-grounds which border the lake, intending to sit down and read, but I found the meanderings so enticing that I continued my walk, and on my return was surprised by Lord Prudhoe's outrider announcing his arrival with two friends. o My host and hostess expressed their most cordial welcome, and sent Captain B. and myself in a Russian droschky to meet them, and they were most kindly received. The weather so hot, we sat down to dinner in the great hall with a stone floor, with all the doors open. After dinner we retired to the balcony, and it seemed to me that something was stirring, as Madame de Wetterstedt went out. Presently the arrival of two ladies was announced. I paid no particular attention, but in a few moments my two chasseurs arrived, dressed as ladies. I knew neither of them till their veils were removed. The Countess had dressed them, and there was a scene of great merriment. I was shocked at filling the house with no less than eight of my countrymen, and wondered what 236 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S would be said at home at such an invasion, but the welcome of the host and hostess only seemed to augment with my embarrassment. September ist. — We breakfasted in the gardens, and the Count took us to his nail forge, about five miles off The road was beautiful, and the position of the forge particularly so. We had a very gay evening, dancing, and all sorts of games. After supper, the Countess led us to a balcony which pre- sented a blaze of light. All the little islands on the lake were illuminated, and the bridges. The night was dark, and the effect upon the running water particularly pretty. The gardens were filled with the peasantry. They expressed great pleasure at seeing their landlady so well, and when she pre- sented Mr. Singleton, telling them he was a priest, their delight seemed complete. I congratulated the travellers upon having made the journey conveniently to Torneo, and seen the sun at midnight, a magnificent blaze, and what with furnaces and torches the whole country appeared on fire. Our friends took leave, delighted with their hospitable reception, and the Count gave Lord Prudhoe an order to see Carlscrona, and a letter of the great Gustavus ! such a treasure to a man of MISSION TO SWEDEN. 237 such an inquiring mind and diligent searcher after all connected with history. I hope his lordship and his companions will have carried away a favourable impression of my good Swedes ! September 2>^d. — After supper the young folks had a carousal, and I was initiated to the '' Inno- cents." While bhndfolded, one of my hands was dressed and painted like an infant's, so that when the handkerchief was removed I was fairly startled. Then Castlereagh and John were initiated to the society of Neptune. Madame De Wetterstedt, as Neptune with his trident, stood upon a table, wear- ing a small cocked hat, the fold of which was filled with water. Castlereagh, on his knees, answered several questions and made various promises, etc., surrounded by the society in masks ; and when Neptune admitted the new member he bowed his head to dub him with the trident, when all the water spouted from the hat and completely drenched the newly-admitted candidate. It was very funny for the by-standers. September \th, — I had a long visit in my room from Count Wetterstedt, whose conversation was so instructive and agreeable that it made the time till dinner glide away rapidly. We dined delight- 23 S MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S fully in one of the pavilions near the lake, a very sweet spot, and at the close of dinner a dish appeared of sugar, cream, and fruit. All, however, '' is not gold that glitters ;" the composition was soap- suds and fruit juice decorated with shavings covered with sugar, which made a very ornamental dish. Castlereagh helped himself to a large spoonful, and had to fly. John had quietly taken a small portion, which he swallowed, but rather than spoil the fun said nothing. Three or four others were obliged to disappear. After dinner the Countess and I took a drive through some newly-made walks, but her son not being an experienced coachman upset us most ridiculously. I made a complete somersault, and the little droschky was on its beam-ends, but it was soon set up, and we proceeded on our drive, which was beautifully varied and picturesque. September 6tk. — After breakfast we took leave of the hospitable mansion of Finspong, and our kind host and hostess ; we dined at M. de Bonde's, and reached Eekelsterna, where we slept, or rather vainly tried to do so, but were so devoured we were obliged to leave our beds and lie on the sofas. We started early, and visited Gripsholm, reaching Stock- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 239 holm in the evening, delighted to get home. The night was beautiful, and as clear as day. September lotk. — I announced my return at the Cabinet, and then we rode out to Drottingholm. About half-way we met the King, who was most ofracious. H.M. invited me to dinner with *'tous vos messieurs," regretting he could not receive us at once. He took his leave, adding, "vous irez voir ma fenjme," upon which I bowed and pro- ceeded on my ride. Scarcely had I reached the chateau than I saw the Oueen and two of her ladies on foot. I immediately dismounted, and H.M. invited me to come in, and placed me next her on the sofa, saying all sorts of kind things. All my friends and acquaintances expressed great pleasure at my return. CHAPTER VIII. Despatch to Mr. Canning — Visits to Studios at Stockholm — Upsala — Iron Mine of Dunamora — Silver Mine of Sala — Arrival at Gothenburg — Visit to the King at Rosenberg — Funeral Service of Louis XVIII. — Audience to present Mr. Mackenzie — Instance of Bernadotte's Remarkable Memory — The King's Account of the Battle of Austerlitz. DESPATCH NO. 39. TO MR. CANNING. ' ' September 11, 1824. '' Sir, ''In reference to my Despatch No. 8 written on the departure of Count Lowentjelm as Swedish Minister to Constantinople, and stating the King of Sweden's anxiety to reobtain for his flag by the aid of England, the navigation of the Black Sea, I have to mention late conversations held by the Prince and Count Wetterstedt, as well as by the King yesterday, with me on that sub- ject. . . . They purport that ancient treaties place Swedish commerce in Turkish ports on the LORD BLOOMFIELD'S MISSION TO SWEDEN. 241 footing of that of the most favoured nations ; that it was subsequently with apparent reason, comprised in a general exclusion from the Black Sea; that other nations have since been admitted, and that Sweden has for some time solicited admission in accordance with the spirit of the above-mentioned treaties. "It further appears from these papers, that in 1805 Swedish vessels were permitted to navigate to the Russian ports in the Black Sea, but were again totally excluded on war breaking out between Russia and Turkey ; and that, on the restoration of peace, the Swedish Minister at Constantinople, unable even to effect the renewal of the modified privilege above mentioned, except on terms nearly fatal for a time to all Swedish commercial enterprise, was empowered in 18 16 to conclude 2. formal treaty with the Porte for the free navigation of the Black Sea by Swedish vessels, which had for some years used foreign colours for that purpose. ''The above use of foreign flags having been for- bidden by the Porte in 182 1, the urgent remon- strances of the Swedish Minister at the Porte only obtained a Note (No. 4) from the first Dragoman, indicative of and grounded on the Reis-Effendi's verbal, but hitherto ineffectual promise (through VOL. I. R 242 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the Dragoman) of the desired privilege for Swedish vessels, clogged however by their liability, in com- mon with those of other nations, to Turkish visitation, and the seizure of their cargoes, as the case might demand. . . . Having abridged these papers, I ought to observe, that evidently in con- nection with their subject, though not as an alleged ground for English interference, the King, the Prince, and Count Wetterstedt all dwelt on the unvarying practice of Sweden, in the late grand political questions, to follow implicitly the track of England ; indeed, Sweden's professedly general coincidence with her, particularly on my receiving your Despatch No. i on South American affairs, attracted the undisguised reproaches of the Russian Mission here, which implied, and pretty intelligibly, its surprise that Sweden could have an opinion different from that of its neighbours on so weighty a matter. Thus, without presuming to judge how far H.M. may reckon upon your kindness, it is my duty to mention, that its being employed would much oblige this Cabinet." DIARY. September iitk — At supper I sat next Her Majesty, and when talking of Madame Akertjelm, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 243 with whom she was acquainted intimately at Paris, she observed: ''J'avais le bonheur de faire sa connaissance quand j'etais moi-meme." ""''' She often remarks upon the gene of royalty, and always with regret. Septeinber i ^th, — I visited several studios ; saw a pretty statue by Bostrum, a dancing figure not quite as large as life. Afterwards went to Monsieur Gotha, who is highly thought of as a sculptor, especially for busts. September i?>tk. — I went to see M. Falkrantz's atelier, the great landscape painter, and ordered three pictures — one of Gripsholm, one of the falls of Trolketta, and one of the farmhouse in which Gustavus Vasa concealed himself September i()tk, — We rode to Drottingholm for my son to take leave of the King and Queen. All seem in despair at his departure. He recom- mended himself to everyone, and to none more than to his father. September 21st. — We left Stockholm to visit Upsala. We first went to the Cathedral, a fine Gothic building, 370 feet long, 152 wide, and 150 * *' I had the happiness of making her acquaintance when I was myself." R 2 2 44 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S high. A grand organ fills the end opposite the altar. The recesses are filled with monuments, some very fine; one of John III. and one of Linnaeus. St. Eric reposes in a silver coffin near the altar. We were shown into a room where the dresses of persons celebrated in Swedish history hang : a pretty old gown of Queen Christina, the leather coat worn by Stuze when he was murdered by Eric XIV. We afterwards proceeded to the Archbishop's Palace in the country, and walked to the Governor's house, situated upon a very commanding height at the entrance of the town from Stockholm — a fine flat view. The Library is very large — a collection of 90,000 volumes. We saw some curious old books, printed from 1467 to 1480. We saw two neat chests, chained and sealed as ordered to be kept by Gustavus III., and not to be opened till fifty years after his death, thirty-two of which have expired. There was a curious cabinet of Queen Christina's, and a little piece of the finest carving like the most delicate Chinese fan-stick, the work of Count Stenbock when a prisoner in Denmark. One of the students conducted us to Linnseus' house and garden. The garden is only curious MISSION 70 SWEDEN. 245 as the spot where that great botanist Hved and imparted his knowledge. The house was small. His daughter was still alive — an old lady of eighty- two. I wished very much to see a famous professor of theology, who had kept his bed for thirty years though in perfect health. He lectures and performs all the duties of his office, but is, I was told, a most irritable man, and often jumps on his legs on his bed whilst expounding his subjects. He considered that much time is uselessly wasted in dressing and locomotion, and therefore he prefers never leaving his couch ! September 22nd. — We left Upsala after break- fast, and passed the site of the ancient town, where there are the ruins of the old church and a few farmhouses. The country very flat and uninterest- ing till we arrived at the famous mines of Duna- mora, into which we descended in buckets. It was very awful. My son and A.D.C. went first, and when they disappeared my heart quite sickened. I followed as soon as the companion bucket came up. The descent is about three minutes and a half, a depth of 600 feet. While we were in the mine they exploded a piece of the wall ; the sound and smoke were quite awful. When about half- 2 46 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S way down we were enveloped in a kind of mist, arising from the chill and the air becoming more dense. The whole thing has a most imposing effect and makes one shiver, but I can never forget my feelings when I lost sight of my dear boy ; I thought I must have sunk. This is the most valuable iron mine in Sweden, and produces in the proportion of seventy-five per cent. They are however obliged, for chemical reasons, to mix other ore, by which the produce is reduced to fifty per cent. — still an enormous profit. About 280 men are employed, but with women and children the amount of the establishment is nearer iioo. One of the proprietors, Mr. Jaen, lived quite near, in a pretty house, and the busy occupation of the place gives an air of life that interests greatly. We proceeded from the mine to Forsemark, the fine seat of Count and Countess d'Ugglass, having passed a grand chateau of Count de Brahe's, about two miles from Upsala. We were most kindly welcomed by the Count and Countess Ugglass, and passed a most agreeable evening. The village is well built, and forms a street from the chateau to a very pretty church ; the pleasure-grounds are beautifully picturesque, the walks admirably chosen. MISSION TO SWEDEN, 247 There is a fine statue of the late Count by Bostrum placed on a very pretty island, and the whole place is a magnificent residence. Eight guns guard the entrance into a fine spacious court surrounded by iron railing. After dinner the Count drove us to an interesting place, where all his iron is shipped for Stockholm. Septe7nber 2A^th. — We took leave of our kind host and hostess, and started for the silver mine of Sala. Passed Lofsta, the seat of the Count and Countess de Geer ; dined at Yfre, and reached Sala at nine p.m. September 2^th, — We started at five a.m. for the mine. The entrance is at the top of a high hill. The underground labourers surrounded us, looking more like devils than human beings. We put on black dresses, great round hats, black leather mittens, and large black aprons, so I began to think we looked ourselves very much like our surroundings. John and I seated ourselves in a large basket, attended by a miner with a torch. We were then launched, and the sensation was awful. We were lowered to a depth of 1 50 fathoms, and then conducted through several very large working chambers, where the ore is blasted and 248 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S collected for smelting. The excavation is immense, and there were about forty of these chambers. Charles XI. visited the mine, and dined in one of the deepest parts in 1687. His crown and initials are represented at the spot where the table was laid. Two hundred and ninety men were at work all the year. And the produce of the mine is averaged at about 2500 marks of silver per annum, and about 5250 lbs. of lead. The ore produced in silver \ of an ounce in each 100 marks. In lead from 60 to 80 marks in the 100 of ore. Still with all this the expenses are hardly covered. After exploring all the works, and spending two hours 1 50 fathoms from the light of heaven, we ascended again, which was infinitely more awful. The immense length of rope, its swinging from side to side seemingly regardless of us poor mortal's below, an occasional jerk from the inequality of the wheel, and the torches burning in many directions, produced a sensation not at all to be envied. The time we occupied in ascending was about twelve minutes, and we were all delighted to reach the top and unrobe. We proceeded on our journey, dined at Arboga, and slept at Orebro, where there is a fine castle. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 249^ September 26th. — Arrived at Linkoping. The river there is very fine, and the road from thence to Gothenburg exceedingly pretty and picturesque. September 2jtk. — We arrived at Gothenburg, where the whole town came to welcome my return, and I have no end of invitations to dinner. It is much easier to get into these hospitable houses than out of them ! September 30//^. — I took leave of my dear son, after sailing for a mile down the river. I prayed Heaven for his safe voyage, and that the Almighty will guard this object of love and solicitude. My heart is ill at ease. I dined with the English merchants of this place. My health was drunk with kead-rejttzng cheers, and on any other occasion I should have spent a happy as well as a proud day. There was a long list of resolutions expressive of the gratitude for the services I had rendered the Factory. October ^th, — On our return to Stockholm we lunched at Count Stedinck's. The venerable field-marshal received us with open arms. He created the place himself, and the position is very fine ; from the gallery one sees fourteen islands, and the lake is large. The parish con^ 250 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S tains no less than twenty-one lakes. We reached Stockholm safely, and the tears trickled down my withered cheeks thinking how long I should be before I again behold my dear son, whose presence is my chief happiness. October Zth. — I received an invitation from His Majesty to pass some days at his Palace of Rosen- berg, whither he this day goes ; of course I accepted, and to-morrow, after breakfast, I am to start, the distance about three and a half miles. October ^tk. — The first part of the road to Rosenberg is that to Upsala, nothing remarkably pretty; the trees beginning to put on their autumnal tint gives a pleasing and agreeable variety to the foliage. I arrived at two o'clock ; an officer con- ducted me to my apartment, which is very com- fortable, where the Prince lodged as a bachelor; the stoves were all lighted, and I was established in a few minutes. I read till dressing time, and repaired to the salon at ten minutes before five, where I found His Majesty ; nothing could exceed the kindness of his reception. The Queen soon arrived, who was equally glad to see me. The whole Court looked upon me with countenances of welcome, and after some general conversation MISSION TO SWEDEN. 251 dinner was announced. To be sure nothing can be better done than the honours by His Majesty, the most unaffected civiHty and cordiaHty ; perhaps more grace might be exhibited, but at the same time, had I never seen our own King, George IV., in his salon, I should not make this remark. After dinner the Queen always makes me sit down by her, and is very agreeable, and civil to a degree. This is a very good house — the apartments on the second floor are handsome ; a fine dining-room and several salons, billiard-room, library, etc., and all beautifully furnished ct la franqaise. The band of the Horse Guards played during dinner. After coffee and a little repose the King played several games of billiards, and the evening went off^ quite without ceremony. Tea was served, a la sttddoise^ on a tablecloth. We then assembled in the library, where all the newspapers of Europe were; the collec- tion of books is, I believe, very good, but not large. In a little while everyone seemed to collect round a great table and to seat themselves. The King, Counts Lowenhjelm and Lagerbjelke, read some scenes out of Moliere ; the Queen read to herself, and the other ladies worked ; some men strummed on a pianoforte de loin, and some continued to play 252 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S billiards. Nothing appears more easy than the society, and very agreeable ; added to which, one's mind was ever contemplating this extraordinary monarch. At eleven o'clock, supper was announced. The King never sups ; the Queen only sits down at a small round table. I was placed on the right of Her Majesty and next to her first lady, Madame de Tachere. After supper (an affair of ten minutes) we returned to the salon, and after chatting for a quarter of an hour. Their Majesties took leave. The Count de Brahe conducted me to my apartment, saw that I had everything comfortable, and wished me a good night. Octobei^ lotk. — I received visits from the cham- berlains ; went to see the ladies, and Her Majesty coming in, after a little gay conversation, she pro- posed showing the apartments. We first went to see a very fine Juno by Bostrum, colossal but very grand. Her Majesty's apartment is extremely com- modious, and at the same time magnificent. There were no good pictures. The furniture is from Paris, and the whole is fitted up in Parisian taste. A magnificent cabinet of poor Marie Antoinette's — I almost think that I should not exhibit anything that could recall the recollection to that unfortunate MISSION TO SWEDEN. 253 family, though Bernadotte had no concern in the events of that day, as he was still an obscure indi- vidual. The Queen was infinitely gracious and good-natured, regretted the snow, that we could not drive in the Park, which they say is very beautiful and of considerable extent, adding : '' Mais, mon G^n^ral, j'espere que ce n'est que differ^." We separated at three to prepare for church ; the company assembled at four in the Queen's apart- ment, and afterwards went to dinner. The cere- mony lasted about half-an-hour ; the servants were not present. The Count and Countess Sandels arrived. He was Governor of Norway during the Prince's absence, and was on the eve of beginning that long journey. The evening passed as yester- day, with the addition of the band for an hour after tea. October iitk. — The day quite bright; the tints are extraordinarily beautiful ; the foliage being in its highest autumnal perfection, with the surface of snow, produced a most remarkable effect. I had a delicious walk : followed the principal promenade, and wandered in every di- rection ; found myself on the top of the highest ground, from which the view is quite splendid. The 254 AIEMOIR OF LORD BLOOiMFIELD' S lake, a branch of the Mahler, is of great extent, dotted with some wild rocky islands. In the dis- tance is the ancient capital of Sistella, now in ruins, also some cainpagnes in different directions. After contemplating this magnificent view, I descended, and pursuing my route soon came to a rustic build- ing, formerly the room in which Charles XIII. held his Masonic assemblies, upon which subject he was somewhat mad ; the windows are all above the height of man, therefore my curiosity to explore the interior was not likely to be satisfied. Going away in despair I heard footsteps from within, and approaching the door, it opened, and Major White- lock presented himself. It is now his room of study, and where he retires from the society at the chateau to do business. The inside displays nothing parti- cular. There are three alleys that display the lake to view, very pretty ; the Major proposed accom- panying me, which I gladly accepted, and found him a most agreeable and excellent guide. We walked in the interior direction, and then shaped our steps to the lake, by the side of which is a romantic walk, the scenery varying at each step ; at times the most stupendous rocks, at others rich verdure with fine trees. We arrived at a grotto, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 255 formed by the rocks, and which was fitted up by Charles XIII. This is very fine. Charles's queen always dreaded entering this beautiful grotto, for many of the rocks appear so detached that one scarcely knows how they are supported. One mounts several steps, and above the grotto is a platform, upon which is an octagon room, occasion- ally used in summer as a tea-room. There is a very fine view from this spot — a mass of rock in the lake, opposite the chateau, upon which Charles XIII. built a very fine ruin, which is seen from this point. We tarried here some time, the sun shining most brilliantly. Here we were joined by the Count Lagerbjelke, a very agreeable, well-instructed man. We pursued our route onwards by the lake, met Her Majesty in an open landau ; returned by the Home Gardens, which are very good and extensive. After a few minutes' rest, the General Bjornstjerna came to me, the day still so fine that we walked out for a little; met Her Majesty on foot, and attended Her Majesty until dressing time. Nothing can be more agreeable than she makes everything; my walk was of three hours, and I don't recollect ever seeing a place that I liked better. The chateau is royal and comfortable. The King's first gentleman, 56 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the Count de Brahe, came just after I had gone out to know if I would drive with His Majesty, or ride ; in short, all sorts of civilities. Dinner at five ; and after the usual pastimes we had a large pool of billiards. The King played, and some of the ladies. Madame Bjornstjerna sang — so passed our evening. Supped at eleven. Afterwards His Majesty had a long conversation with me, full of interest in every way. The King is a most wonderful man. I retired at twelve. I had proposed leaving to-day, but- His Majesty came up and said : " Mon General, donnez nous encore un jour ; " so I had to stay, to which I had no difficulty in consenting. October'' i6tk. — I dressed to attend the funeral service of Louis XVHI. at the Catholic chapel. All the corps diplomatique assembled there at eleven, and the members of the Foreign Office attended. The chapel was hung in black with silver fringe ; the coffin was placed under a canopy opposite the altar, surmounted by a crown covered with black crape ; the coffin was covered with black velvet, and a pall spread over with crowns and fleur-de-lis in silver. The ceremony was very imposing. The sermon was preached by the Abbe Gredin, and one MISSION TO SWEDEN. 257 can hardly imagine a finer subject for religious eloquence ; but unhappily the Abb6 was the most ineloquent man I ever heard. The music was very fine, by Cherubini ; the requiem was affecting, and very well played and sung. The ceremony ended at one, and we returned home. I called at the Palace to inquire afi:er the King and Queen and to thank Her Majesty for a book she most good- naturedly lent me. November 1st. — Prepared for my visit to the Count de Wetterstedt at the Cabinet. I had a most satisfactory interview, and terminated my long negotiation in behalf of the negroes. I have been congratulated by everyone on having done so much business in so short a time, a remarkable feature in my mission. November <^th. — I attended the King for the presentation of Mr. Mackenzie, a Scotch laird. I arrived at the chateau at two with my High- lander. He was the admiration of the Council, which was assembled for the graver subjects of the State's concerns, but which was disturbed by my ''sans culottes." I was ushered into the King's presence first, who received me with his accustomed kindness, and was very highly amused when I apprised him of VOL. I. s 258 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the costume of my protege. He laughed outright, and was quite gay. After much conversation on Turkish poHtics, and upon our late experiment at Woolwich against Carnot's wall, my friend was Introduced ; a kilt is certainly a very striking costume ; His Majesty was much amused at Mr. Mackenzie's wearing It. A pair of pistols given to one of his ancestors by James H., attracted the Royal notice. After much condescending civility Mr. Mackenzie retired, and I remained with His Majesty. DESPATCH NO. II. TO MR. CANNING. ' ' November 11, 1824. ''The Slave Trade Treaty, between England and Sweden and Norway, was signed to-day at the Swedish Cabinet, by Count Wetterstedt and myself. . . " Last night at the house of the Norwegian Minister of State, the King was pleased most graciously to declare to me, ' Avec quel plalsir, 11 profitait de cette occasion (comme de toutes autres) de renouveler les Preuves de son desir ardent de Se preter aux vues de la Grande Bretagne, mals qu'il ne pourrait m'echapper, qu'en concluant un Traite qui assujettit un Su6dois a etre juge sans appel par une " Cotiv Mixte,'' 11 deviait un peu, tant MISSION TO SWEDEN. 259 de la Constitution, que de 1' Esprit de la Legislation Su^doise, — et, que le motif devrait etre tres urgent qui le portait a anticiper la Decision favorable de La Diete, sur un Point dune telle Importance.''"' *' P.S. — The treaty being perfected, Count Wetterstedt called me aside, and said that he felt, in common with his royal master, most gratified that all the difficulties which impeded its completion had been satisfactorily obviated ; as the instrument was certainly at variance (as above mentioned) with the spirit and letter of the Swedish constitution, and Sweden could have no direct interest in its stipulations, further than that of lending herself in all things to the wishes of her best ally. Upon which I observed that, feeling as I did the entire truth of His Excellency's observations, I thought myself bound to suggest the justice and propriety of Sweden being put to no expense by an act from * "The pleasure with which he took advantage of this opportunity (as of all others) to renew the proofs of his ardent wish to meet the views of Great Britain, but that it could no escape my notice that in concluding a treaty which subjected a Swede to be tried, without appeal, by a mixed court, he deviated a little as well from the constitution as the spirit of the Swedish legislature, and that the motive must be very urgent which led him to anticipate the decision of the Diets upon so important a point." s 2 26o MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S which she derived no benefit ; and that I was sure I consulted your wishes in rehnquishing distinctly the present usually given on such occasions. The Count replied, with expressions of satisfaction, that he concurred with me in that feeling. He was deeply sensible of the manner in which I had introduced it, and accepted the proposition in terms of extreme good-will and acknowledgment on the part of H.M., and the Council, before whom the subject must have necessarily been discussed." DIARY. November'' i^tk. — I devoted an hour this morning to reading the history of my country (Ireland), and I cannot help mentioning a trait of courage and devo- tedness unparalleled, I believe. When Donagh was retiring to Munster, after the battle of Clontarf, being impeded in his march and preparing to give battle, he wished to separate his sick and wounded, and place them in security. They (the sick) refused any protection, and proposed driving a sufficient number of stakes in the earth, to which the wounded were to be tied, and having an efficient man on each side, by which their mangled soldiers would form a line beyond which they all swore not to retire. This extra- ordinary fact has given a subject to Moore. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 261 November i<^tL — The most violent storm that I recollect lasted the whole night; several times we thought the house would have fallen. There has been a severe loss amongst the shipping, and many bridges have been destroyed. Two days before the storm the Baltic had risen so much, from the prevalence of the westerly wind, that it ran rapidly into the Lake Mahler. This is the first time since our residence that this has happened ; the current from the lake is always strong, into the Baltic. November 2yd. — I heard yesterday an extra- ordinary anecdote of the King, in proof of his wonderful memory. At Monsieur de Gabriac's audience, His Majesty observed: *' N'^tiez-vous, monsieur le Marquis, page a Napoleon ? N etiez- vous pas de service un jour que j 'avals une audience de Sa Majeste, quand Sa Majeste vous a donn6 une commission pour Madame Pauline ? " '" Monsieur de Gabriac corroborated the fact. The varying circumstances which have attended the King's life make it more remarkable than had he always played the part of a sovereign. * *' Were you not, Marquis, page to Napoleon? And were you not in waiting, one day when I had an audience of His Majesty, when he gave you a message for Madame Pauline ? " 262 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S DESPATCH NO. 46. TO MR. CANNING. "Stockholm, November 25, 1824. '^ Sir, *' A few days ago the King most graciously informed me that his mind had been of late much occupied by the interesting and important nature of the approaching Anglo-Swedish commercial arrange- ments, and that he had ordered Count Wetterstedt to prepare for me with all speed a sketch of the proposed Swedish tariff, so as to admit of my form- ing some opinion before that document was made public. I consequently waited on the Count, who said that he would probably enable me to transmit it home by next post. He also told me that the terms of the Convention of 1809, between Sweden and Russia, for the cession of Finland, have been finally adjusted at St. Petersburg, by the Commissioners ad hoc of the two countries, according to which Sweden receives 150,000 dollars banco, in Heu of all demands of stipulated compensation for the caisses ptibliqtces transferred to Russia with that province." Wednesday, Dec. \st, — I went to the Palace ball, given upon the Prince Royal's name day. The ball was very magnificent, given in the Queen's apartments ; the dancing-room hung with white MISSION TO SWEDEN, 263 muslin and gold, lighted entirely with wax candles, nevertheless very hot. A fine supper ; I sat at the King's table ; about six hundred guests. The Royal Family were very civil ; the King took me to another room, and had a long cose with me ; told me some anecdotes of the French army destined to invade England. He was sent by Napoleon to Boulogne, to report his opinion of the practicability of the enterprise, but was decidedly against it. He put two queries to Napoleon, which have a great deal of force : '' Supposing the attack succeeds, and you command yourself, if you don't intend to follow the steps of William the Conqueror what results from victory ? If you send one of us, and we succeed, we become more powerful and greater than you are." He spoke very much of the King of England's (George IV.) firmness in bringing back the Duke of York to the command of the army, and of his ability upon first undertaking the govern- ment ; in short, we had a most interesting and very long conversation. DESPATCH NO. 48. TO MR. CANNING. * ' Decejnher 9, 1824. *'As the case now stands, the shorter and thinner deals, if imported into England, 264 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S would not repay to the importer the prime cost and freight, and they are all, thereby, driven from the English to other markets, chiefly to France, where the demand has of late years been consider- able. In return, Norway receives no colonial produce but wines, brandy, and salt. The colonial produce consumed in Norway, though still drawn from England, has dwindled in quality very materially, in the article of rum ; and the manu- factured goods, with which almost exclusively England formerly furnished Norway, are now chiefly imported from Hamburg and the north of Germany. It is true that Norway sends no wood to Germany, but the British duties thereon make it even better worth Norway's while to draw her manufactured goods from a near market, to which she sends no cargoes, than from England, to which she would certainly send many, under different circumstances." DESPATCH NO. 50. TO MR. CANNING. " Thursday^ December 23, 1824. '' Sir, '* It being improbable that the following little circumstance, which appears to have led to the success of the French arms at Austerlitz, has MISSION TO SWEDEN, 265 reached you, it may be just worth mentioning, as I had it lately from the lips of the King of Sweden, with the map before him. ''A difficult morass, which lay between the centres of the two armies, presented itself, when the King (acting, as he said, on his school recollec- tions) immediately ransacked a neighbouring village of its roofing, doors, and everything that could form an artificial surface over which the troops might pass ; they having done so, and formed into solid columns, the result of the subsequent charge of the allied cavalry is too well known to justify further intrusion upon you." (Signed.) DESPATCH NO. 53. TO MR. CANNING. *' Stockholm, Friday, December 31, 1824. ''Sir, '* I received a circular from Count Wetterstedt to-day, stating that, on the principle of the new tariff, all the heads of Foreign Missions at Stockholm have the privilege,- dating from to-morrow, of importing into Sweden what they please, duty-free, for their own tcse, on delivering to the Cabinet a reclamation for the same. 2 66 LORD BLOOMFIELD'S MISSION TO SWEDEN. '' This privilege was hitherto enjoyed only by the British, and very few other legations ; and I mention the above as a proof of the polite and increased liberality of this Court on such subjects." (Signed.) CHAPTER IX. Child's Ball — Swedish Marriage — Dinners at Court — Anec- dote of Bernadotte — Swedish Funeral — Sledge Party — Russian Easter — Tableaux at Countess Wetterstedt's — Diplomatic Dinners and Parties — Orebro — Norkoping — Mine of Fahleen — Gefle — Lofita — Rosendall — Departure to Russia. Ja7ittary ist, 1825. — I dined with Mr. Hughes; a large party. Made a New Year's present to their son, a remarkably fine lad. Madame came up, and embraced me, with which I was rather astounded, and looked quite foolish. Madame is not as handsome as her countrywoman, Madame Patterson, was. I went to the New Year's ball in the city, to compliment the Royal Family. I met there my shoemaker, tailor, etc., etc., to all of whom I respectfully bowed. January 3^^. — The oldest Swede does not recollect such a winter. If the lakes do not freeze, the forges will be in great distress, for all 2 68 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the supplies of charcoal are conveyed over the ice and morasses from the interior, there being no practicable roads in the summer season. I went to the Cabinet on business, and had a very satisfactory interview upon the Norwegian Salt question. Nothing but ice. I saw at least lOO people sprawling, legs and arms, like the flies of a windmill. I, however, preserved my equilibrium. Jamiary ^th. — I met the Baron de Ritterstolpe, who told me that at his country seat, near to Gefle, in the course of last week, and within twenty- four hours, the thermometer fell from three degrees of heat to twenty-eight degrees of cold Celcius. Only think of the constitution required to resist such a transition ! I dined at Madame de Wetterstedt's, where we were a very large party. I sat between the Count and Countess Tachere, the Queen's confidant and lady-in-waiting. Her husband the Count was high in the service of Joseph Bonaparte, when King of Spain. At the evacuation of Madrid, Madame de Tachere was -obliged to make her escape on horseback. She often regrets that she was not taken prisoner by the English, by which she would have seen England. MISSION TO SWEDEN. 269 EXTRACTS FROM LORD BLOOMFIELD's JOURNAL. Stockholm. Friday, January \\tK — Nothing can be more gay than the streets. The Swedes seem quite to change their character when there is frost and snow. The sledges and Httle horses, every long hair an icicle, are very picturesque. Then the ringing of bells without ceasing — all composing a scene so new that even we, more Southerners, are cheered by it. Still, nothing is so cold as a sledge. The quick passage through the cold air is terribly piercing. I went at half-past five to the children's ball at Madame Ugglasse's, which I opened with Madlle., aged seven years ; stayed until nine. There were about fifty children, and I declare I did not observe one handsome one. The good looks of this country are more to be met with in the lower classes, who, in general, are very pretty. Tuesday, January \Uh,—\ went to see a bride at the Chateau— a droll usage, and so established that there are no means of her avoiding the ceremony of showing herself in her bridal dress, when everyone has the right and privilege of walking past her. The bride stands in all her 2 70 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S finery, with a mareschal on each side, each holding a wax taper, the maids of honour all in attendance behind ; and this tiresome display lasts an hour. When the grande maitresse, who is likewise in at- tendance, spied me, she requested me to go to the apartment where were assembled the Royal Family and the attendants, so that I saw all the thing admirably. Some ladies have tried to resist this ceremony ; but the mob broke their windows, and did all sorts of rude thinofs. When the hour was over, the bride was conducted to the Oueen and Princess. I ought to have said that the young lady was a maid of honour. Afterwards, I know only by hearsay, for we strangers were not admitted. It is quite provoking that they will not allow us to assist at all this ceremony, which is curious and very interesting. It was formerly the custom in Germany, but is, I believe, only now preserved here. A grand supper was given, when the bride sat next the King ; and after there was a national dance with torches, which closed the chateau scene. The bride and bridegroom were conveyed to their resi- dence in a state carriage with eight horses, drums and trumpets playing. These parties arrived at MISSION TO SWEDEN. 271 his father's about two o'clock, where there was a sort of ''raking pot of tea" provided, and about three the society separated. There is an augury, to which, on these occasions, the Swedes attach positive faith. During the whole day, the bride and bridegroom are not permitted to see each other ; and only after the former has been exhibited they meet, one conducted by the Queen and ladies, and the other by the King and gentlemen ; the effort then is which shall see the other first, as thereby is decided the important question, which will be maitre de la maison, Wednesday, January 2^tk, — I read part of the Swedish Minister's despatches from St. Petersburg, which depict admirably the horrors of the late disorder and insubordination in that capital. Thursday, Jamtary 26tk. — I went to the Cabinet to finish the St. Petersburg correspondence, which at this moment is so very interesting. Returned at half-past two to dress for a circle at the Princess Albertine's, to present Admiral Baker. The Countess and Mr. Knollys were very graciously received by the old lady, aged seventy-two. Except the exiled family, she is the last of the Vasa branch, I went to the Count Wetterstedt's grand dinner, on 2 72 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S the occasion of His Majesty's fete. All in uniform, and above fifty. We had an excellent dinner, and well served, which for such a table was very extraordinary. To be sure, the Swedish mode of serving dinner is wonderfully convenient, and everything is so hot. I attended a ball at the Palace, and the King having invited me to dinner, I did not dare say that I had a great dinner at home to-morrow for the new-married couple. However, J. B. spoke to the Count Lowenhjelm, who went directly to His Majesty and explained ; His Majesty was excessively gracious, and ordered me to dine at home. Wednesday, February gth. — I dined at His Excellency, M. Cedertjelm's, and at the Palace ; assisted with great success at both places. The Royal Family most gracious and condescending to me. It was a reunion of the family, there- fore my being invited was highly complimentary. At seven His Majesty made me sit down near him, sending the Queen, etc., to the Opera, and for an hour I enjoyed a most interesting narration of his early life, particularly that part which is treated of in Segur's '' History of Napoleon." *' II plaisait a Napoleon de dire que j'6tais MISSION TO SWEDEN. 273 mauvais general. II disait autant de votre Due, ainsi je ne dois pas me plaindre. Le Due I'a battu, je I'ai battu, il n'a jamais battu ni Tun ni I'autre."^'^ His general conversation upon the state of the world and upon our late measure, was not only agreeable but very instructive. Friday, February iitk. — I dined at two in order to attend the interment of a colonel of artillery at half-past three. Count Ugglass and Baron Akertjelm assisted. At the hour appointed we repaired to house of assembling, where the body was laid out. All the garrison was collected, and the ceremony was quite affecting. In this country the body is dressed and buried in the uniform of the regiment to which the deceased belonged. The body was laid out in a room covered with black cloth, and most of those who assisted at the ceremony being invited to see him before he was enclosed in his coffin, I was of course conducted there, and I really should have thought the poor man still alive, so little was the countenance changed by death. * '' Napoleon was pleased to say that I was a bad general. He said the same of your Duke (Wellington), so I ought not to complain. The Duke defeated him, I defeated him. He never defeated either the one or the other." VOL. I. 2 74 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S We followed the hearse, Field-Marshal Count Stedinck on the right of the chief mourner, myself on his left, leading a long column of officers. The church was about 400 yards distant where the burial service was performed, lasting at least an hour and a quarter. No service was read over the grave. The coffin was very handsome. My presence was particularly gratifying to the Swedes. Wednesday, Febrtta^y i6tk. — I always used to think the King's (George IV.) speeches too modest, and was particularly struck with that on the present occasion. Surely never was there a moment when a Government had more reason to hold the highest language ; however, perhaps the present tone may be the most prudent. The debates are most inte- resting, and I am anxiously expecting the next mail, which I hope is on its way and w^ill bring us a week's proceedings. The dinner which is to be given to me to-morrow by the generals and colonels has made quite a sensation, and being the first public demonstration of regard and esteem which has ever occurred in the case of a stranger, makes the compliment the more gratifying. It is a pleasure to learn that the Swedes (civilians) have expressed themselves in high delight that my department MISSION TO SWEDEN, 275 should be thus noticed, and although the national character is said to display more or less of jealousy towards foreigners, in my case this has never been the case, and I am bound to say that my intercourse with this country has left only the impression of gratitude and esteem. Indeed, it is a very long time since I have felt myself a stranger amongst them. Monday, February 21st — In the evening I went to General Sparra s ; we had an entertainment, six tableaux vivants ; a show box admirable. The shower was quite excellent, and eight peasants, people of the lowest class, whose countenances were bursting with desire to see the contents of the wonderful box. A little dirty hop-and-go-one was seated like a monkey near, and a figure holding a halfpenny, with arms extended to be the next be- holder. I never saw such admirably depicted coun- tenances as all the eight. Then there was a drunken scene between a scolding wife and a reformed soldier, also admirable ; he sang a song that all the Swedes praised. There was a tableau historique, where Gustavus Adolphus proposed marriage to a young princess in the presence of her mother. It too was very good, particularly the mother. The music was also well done, the violoncello particularly T 2 276 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S harmonious in the hands of a pretty young lady. How the actors continued so long motionless I can't think ! Wednesday, March 2nd. — I breakfasted in my room to read the papers, debates, etc. How weak and futile the arguments against Mr. Goulbourn's Bill appear to me! It occurred in my reading of the discussion on the Catholic Association, that the Government did not sufficiently avail itself of Lord Donoughmore's correspondence upon the mis- chievous operations of that body in the case of Mr. Cavendish, the magistrate ; nothing ever was more plain than its interference with public justice in that case. I prepared for a grand sledge party at the Countess Wetterstedt's, where we assembled at one o'clock. There were forty sledges, all in readiness by two o'clock ; the intervening hour was passed in taking chocolate and coffee and such sort of refreshments. At two all were in movement. We drew for places in the file. I was No. 9, and had the honour of conducting in my sledge Madame de Tachere. Madame de Wetterstedt led in her landau on skates and four horses. Our itindraire was distributed and MISSION TO SWEDEN. 277 we proceeded round the Palace, round the grand Square of Gustavus Adolphus, and then took the Rue de la Reine to Haja and Ulricksdall. We halted there, and were assembled in a large circle containing all the sledges. Nothing could be more picturesque, and the novelty of the scene to me was particularly agreeable and pleasing : forty sledges in every sort of taste. Some of the racing sledges were also of this cavalcade, being so very light that one scarcely sees anything but the individual and servant. These are the vehicles with which the great trotting matches are decided on the lake. We met the Queen returning and the Princess going out, and were the gaze of the whole town. After the open-air party we had a magnificent dinner for over 100 persons at the Countess's, for which we were well prepared, though the day was not at all cold. The sun was bright, and very little wind. The dinner was served like a supper upon little tables, which afforded admir- able accommodation and were much more sociable. But Madame de Wetterstedt is unique in her contrivances. Wednesday, March ()tk — I dined at the Count de Lagerbielke at half-past three — an immense party. 2 78 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S His apartments as director of the Opera are in the same building, and by far the finest in Stockholm, overlooking the Lake Mahler and the port, and situated just at the point where the lake rushes into the Baltic, with the Chateau in front. After dinner, I went to the Opera, Preciosa, Thttrsday, March lotk. — I went to the Palace to take Their Majesties' commands for my ball, where I was most graciously received and flattered by their promise to come on the 19th, when I purpose celebrating the 17th, St. Patrick's Day. I dressed for the masquerade at the Palace. A black domino, hood, and mask were my costume until the quadrille began, when I put on a hat a la Henri IV. with a rufif, which disguised me. Several persons looked at me for some time before I was recognised. There were a great many characters, and tolerably well sustained. J. B. was a Tyrolean, and admirable. Castlereagh, first a Circassian and afterwards a Scot, also very good. The Corps Diplomatique made a figure, and the evening was very amusing. Before supper, at half-past eleven, the quadrille marched in, made obeisance to Their Majesties, and placed them- selves for the dance ; the figures and music entirely new, and the different costumes splendid and beauti- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 279 ful. I hardly ever saw anything in better taste. The Princess Royal looked quite beautiful during the masquerade. The Prince was in the costume of Edward the Black Prince. We went to supper at half-past twelve, and I sat opposite the King, who was very gracious ; and the Prince drank a glass of wine with me. March i6tk. — I spent my evening at Mr. Hughes', the American ckargd d'affaires, where we discussed the powers of the President of the United States. I maintained that as long as he held his seat as President — viz., four years — his powers are little inferior to those of the consti- tutional monarchs of Europe ; and Mr. Hughes proved that indeed in some cases the President has more power, though less in others. The question was ultimately referred to Counts Wedel and Piper, who agreed with me, and we left the American in a minority. March 18//2. — I met Lord Yarmouth at dinner at Mr. Hughes', where we had a most agreeable party. Lord Yarmouth was particularly communi- cative upon some of the most interesting events in the later times of France, and spoke with an accuracy of observation which astonished the French 28o MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Minister, who was of the party. He also referred to my early '' protection " of him, and his pleasant days at the Stud House, etc. March 26tk, — I went to the Freemasons' Hall, where the Royal Family were received. The hall was brilliantly illuminated, and the effect very striking. The Prince Royal took me round to explain the different insignia to me. The arms of the various members are painted upon shields ; amongst them I saw those of the Duke of Gloucester. Sahirday, April 2nd. — I saw the Count Ch. Lowenhjelm and Mr. Lorentz, with whom I had a very long and interesting conversation upon the internal government and regulations of Sweden, particularly upon the causes which led to the restrictions under which the forge proprietors worked, and which only permitted a certain quantity of mineral to be smelted ; they were both still of opinion that the supply of wood would be inadequate if those restrictions were removed. Sunday, April lotk. — I went to General Suchetelen's to keep his Russian Easter. All the family and servants collected in the same room, and ate and drank heartily. Of one particular dish MISSION TO SWEDEN. 281 all had to partake, viz. : cold hard-boiled eggs, their shells fancifully painted, and previously blessed by the priest. After the meal the Russians embraced each other. I did not envy the General his embrace from all those bearded gentry. Monday, ApiHl nth. — I paid some visits, amongst them to Madame de Tachere ; she told me that yesterday when airing with the Queen, Her Majesty observed, *' au moment oil je me presentais, ' Oil est notre General, que nous rencontrions toujours a la promenade ? ' " Thursday, April \\th. — I dressed for Madame de Wetterstedt's pot poitrri. The Royal Family were there, and the guests were about 200. The soiree began by the tableau by Raphael, the Madonna and Pope (Sextus III.). Madame Lowenhjelm, the Madonna, was beautiful ; a little Montgomery, the Saviour ; Signor Cortana, the Pope, was magnificent ; the three other figures were children. The effect was quite touching. Afterwards there was a litde piece, " L'homme a la Loterie," and a vaudeville, '' Patrie et Re- vanche." The young Neys are most distinguished actors. Both pieces went off admirably. Madame Bjornstierna representing an English heiress 282 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S speaking English-French was admirable ; I fancied my ears assailed by my own voice. The Royal Family were all very civil to me, and I hardly ever saw so much attempted at one time with such perfect success. Friday, April i^tk. — I made some visits, and pre- sented my lady friends with medals of Sir Walter Scott, which had been sent to me. They are all mad about him, and were delighted with my present. I dined with the Admiral the Count Cedestrom — a large party, and as gay as possible. He is one of my prime favourites. S7mday, April i^th. — At one I went to the Cabinet to see the Count Wetterstedt, presented the snuff-box, which was received with very great acknow- ledgment. But the King having ordered that there should be no interchange of presents. His Majesty's permission to accept must be asked. The Count showed me a copy of Mr. Canning's answer to the Spanish note of remonstrance upon our recognition of her colonies. I never read so fine a paper, con- clusive upon every point, and detailing our relations with Europe, ever since the beginning of the French Revolution. It is certainly the proudest position in which a nation ever stood, or ever will stand, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 283 and discloses a miserable policy on the part of the great Powers of Europe at different times, who now forsooth dare to pronounce upon England's acts. Much of the contents of this paper developes matter not known, not even to the Count Wetterstedt, who played a part at almost all the Congresses. Thursday y April 2\st. — J. B. went to a masquerade as an old lady, and was capital. DESPATCH NO. 1 4. TO MR. CANNING. ''April 2 1, 1825. '' Sir, *' I have the honour to report the safe receipt of a diamond snuff-box for presentation to His Excellency Count Wetterstedt ; which, conformably to your No. 3, I availed myself of the earliest day to offer in His Majesty's name, as a mark of H.M.'s satisfaction' on the successful termination of the negotiation of the Treaty for the Suppression of the Slave Trade. *' The Count expressed the deepest sense of his gratitude for this mark of H.B.M.'s favour, which, next to that of his own sovereign, he held in the highest esteem and value ; adding the devout hope of his Royal Master that nothing might ever 284 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S occur to deprive Sweden of the support and pro- tection of her best ally. '' I have the honour, etc." (Signed.) Friday, April 22nd. — J. B. gives a most enter- taining account of his evening ; no one recognised him, and he had a great deal of fun. x^t half-past ten he changed his dress, and appeared in a black domino. They had dancing, and a most agreeable variety of pastime. The Royal Family was there, and changed costume several times. The Princess was at last dressed as a Swiss peasant girl, when she took off her mask and looked very pretty. I went to General Suchetelen's grand ball, where the Royal Family were. Nothing could be more magnificent. The Emperor of Russia's pride is to place his Embassadors and Ministers upon a splendid scale ; the General's service of plate is adequate to forty covers, and a sideboard still more ponderous. The Royal Family, etc., supped in the library ; almost a profanation to see the Royal attendants depositing forks and spoons upon the finest and rarest editions. Here the members of the Royal Family are served by their own servants, who bring MISSION TO SWEDEN. 285 for each gold dishes, etc. How different with us ! I danced with Her Most Gracious Majesty. Monday y April 2^tJu — I dined at the French Minister s ; a fine entertainment. In the evening I went to Madame d'Ugglass's soiree, where we had a dehghtful spectacle de socidtd, *' Le Roman d'une Heure," and '' Monsieur Beaufils." After the play we had a very gay ball, which lasted until one, supper included. I danced with the eldest daughter, aged seven years. I scarcely think that in any country a greater variety of amusement, and requiring talent too, could have been procured. The young Neys are admirable actors, so are the sisters, Mesdames Ugglass and Bjornstierna, also Madame de Montgomery. Thursday, April 2%th, — At eleven I dressed in gala to assist at the installation of a Knight of the Seraphim. The ceremony is very fine, the chapel beautiful, and I understand the sermon was very good. The Chancellor of the Order, Count Fleming, recapitulated the merits of the departed knight, and also those of the newly appointed one. He is not very eloquent. The forms, etc., differ but little from those of our orders. Sunday, May ist. — I dined at the Danish 286 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S Minister's at half-past three, a pleasant party, previous to the Longchamp in the Park, whither I rode with Castlereagh and J. Bloomfield. Sent my caleche with the servants. The Royal Family was there, the Queen's carriage with eight white horses, eleven others with six each, all en grande tenuey a good turn-out ; the King and Prince on horseback, in full uniform, stars, and ribbons, etc., and a considerable escort, attended also by all the staff. The wind was easterly, therefore cold, though the sun was bright. I had quite enough of it by half- past eight. On this day everyone appears in their best carriage, all the horses they can muster, and state liveries. Every lady with a new bonnet — this latter is indispensable. The display this year was equal to any former year. Monday, May 2nd, — The busy scene of spring is most striking in this climate ; the ploughs literally cover the land. Vegetation is so rapid that every- thing is set going the instant the frost is out of the ground. The summer has been announced some time by the coming of the Dalecarlians, who are here what the swallows are in England — the harbingers of spring. The population of that province do all the hard labour of Stockholm and MISSION TO SWEDEN. 287 the environs, and are a most interesting people ; their history at the time of Gustavus Vasa has immortaHsed them. Tuesday, May 3^^. — I paid a visit of farewell to Madame de Geer s, who departs to-morrow. She is a very agreeable person, with much instruction ; she is particularly versed in English literature, and a prodigious admirer of it. I paid some other visits, and dressed at two for a three o'clock dinner with the Lorentz. The company was composed of fiddlers, etc., a blind singer, a great organist, and a distinguished flute-player — all professors. We had some playing and singing after dinner; the organist, a Pole, a fine performer ; the singer horrible ; I hope never to see or hear him again. May 20tk. — We left Stockholm and went to Ekilstuna, where we found a comfortable new inn. We visited the manufactory, and purchased some small articles. May 21st,— W^ reached Orebro, and the following day I dined with the Governor, Count Gyldenstolpe. May 2ird, — Orebro is a pretty town, and one of some note in history. We set out for Legersgo, the Montgomery's, where there was a large dinner-party ; the officers who were exercising in the neighbour- 2 88 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S hood came, and we were very merry. After dinner my hostess sang, accompanying herself upon the harp and pianoforte, and the performance was charming. She Is called '' Le petit miracle;" and she learned Swedish in three months. We returned to Orebro. May 2^th, — We continued our journey to Slstuhla, the Comte de Bonders, where we passed an agreeable day, and found that his works had made great progress since last year. The costume of this parish (Knoise) is so pretty, and the peasants appear to enjoy every comfort. It is delightful to find oneself within its boundary. The Count was a man of considerable attainments, and had an excellent library. May 26tk. — We proceeded to Lofsta, Count Piper's estate. The Countess (a sister of Madame de Wetterstedt) a most amiable person ; the Count most agreeable and hospitable. He passed much time In England, and spoke English perfectly. May 2jtL — We went to see the progress of the great canal in this neighbourhood, which was considerable. May 2Zth, — We drove to Norkoping. A great market day, and the numbers of peasants and horses MISSION TO SWEDEN. 289 assembled was extraordinary. They wore no particular costume, but were all well clad. May 2<^th, — We drove to see the canal and the new sluices, constructed between the Lake Wennern and that connecting with Norkoping. A gigantic work for a small country like this. May 2)1 st. — We visited a small private property belonging to the King, called Styonsand, where orders had been given for a breakfast to be pre- pared for us. The house a mere villa, with plenty of accommodation. The fitting up quite simple, but convenient. The environs nothing remarkable, excepting some fine oaks. We proceeded back to Orebro on our way to the mines. May 2^st. — I had a messenger from Colonel Montgomery, inviting us to spend a day or two at Legersgo, which we accepted. We found a large party assembled there; music and laughter were the characteristics of the evening. /t0te ist. — The weather beautiful. Flowers all coming out, and a great promise of fruit. Corn that was only sown eighteen days since, already quite green. hcne ^tk. — The whole family entreated us to stay to celebrate the birthday of their eldest and VOL. I. "^ 290 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S only son. Great preparations were made for the occasion ; the garden was ornamented with flags, fes- toons of flowers, and other demonstrations of joy. Sunday, Jtme ^tk. — I took leave of our hos- pitable friends and proceeded to Orebro, where at least I hoped to find my courier. The rain began faUing heavily here, and the day looked threatening. I dined at Boudyn at two o'clock on the road to Laxbro, where we were very comfortable, and started again. The country begins to be more romantic, and mountains upon a higher scale than the generality of those we had already seen. The environs of Laxbro are quite beautiful. A very fine church, and extensive copper-works. We were admirably lodged, and had an excellent supper of little trout and blackcock. Monday, June 6th. — Started for Fahleen at six, the morning beautiful. After thanking our host and hostess, and paying ten shillings for all our comforts, servants included, we set out, the country becoming at every mile more beautiful. We both agreed that we were now really in the midst of mountains ; even Dugon, the valet, admitted the scenery to be a la Suisse, though I suppose your ladyship would consider them mere graceful undu- MISSION TO SWEDEN. 291 lations. The whole journey was quite beautiful ; we saw but few country-houses. Dined at Rys- gorden. Nagleaby, where we changed horses, is situated in the middle of an extensive plain, from which we counted innumerable villages, at least fifty in view at the same time ; and the land very fertile, with the fine River Dahl meandering through the centre. At nine o'clock we came in sight of Fahleen, which is a frightful-looking place, like the neighbourhood of Wolverhampton, with the un- sightly bowels of the earth covering the surface of the whole. The town small, and thinly peopled ; I suppose the population mainly lives underground. Tuesday, June Jtk, — I went to inspect the mine. After being dressed for the descent we began our operations, each with his black domino and white hat, and apron behind. We were conducted by three men with torches, and certainly when we took leave of heaven's light the scene was very awful. The shaft leading to the lowest part of the mine is 6,500 steps; the perpendicular depth, 194 fathoms. We were an hour and a half in descending the mine, which after all has nothing to recommend it but the scale of excavation, which I believe is the largest in Europe. The principal ore is copper, u 2 292 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOAf FIELD'S but there is both silver and lead. Of the former the proportion is about two and a half in a hundred ; the latter is so little that even Mr. Barselius, the great chemist (who is said to be more scientific than Sir Humphrey Davy), could not give me any just idea of the proportion. We met Barselius and a large party of scientific men in the mine. We found some parts of the excavation supported by immense masses of blocks of wood, which Barselius explained to me are supports to replace the columns of ore, which had been originally left, but which, since the scarcity of mineral, had been removed. He calculates that even at the low rate of work at present the supply cannot last lOO years. I understand that the workmen do not ex- ceed 300. In our wanderings we did not see 100. Gustave HI. descended in 1788, and Charles XHL in 1799, but not above half the depth. I never recollect to have felt heat so oppressive, but I was less fatigued than I should have expected. I brought some of the ore from the very bottom, where scarcely any visitor ever goes. After ascend- ing our 6,500 steps, I found the light excessively trying. We soon got rid of our dominos, and walked home, each glad to lay his length on his MISSION TO SWEDEN. 293 sofa. The whole thing was completed in four hours. History furnishes no date when the mine was opened, but there is trace of working to the eleventh century. So solid is the rock that one pump keeps the water clear from this immense space, which is worked by a small water-wheel. At three we dined very comfortably upon some fish and beefsteaks, with a gelinotte. After a long cose, we walked over the town, and were caught in a thunder-shower. The scene, as country, is shocking ; the whole surface is covered with the burnt refuse of the ore, and scarcely is any vegetation to be seen. Wednesday, June Zth. — We started for Gefle at half-past six, and pursued our route through a very beautiful country. One drives along a lake for the first twenty miles, occasionally plunging into forests of pine and birch that gave the most pleasing variety possible. In this journey we passed the River Dahl twice, once by ferry. The banks were rich and the villages numerous in the vale through which it runs. The people through all this country have a great air of comfort and are well clothed; their habitations, too, very good. Unfortunately, the red paint, having some qualities 294 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S which fit it for the preservation of the buildings against the effects of the weather, gives the houses a gloomy appearance ; however, we who are ac- customed to look upon brick ought not to be shocked. We arrived safely at half-past seven, and found ourselves in a very comfortable inn, and in a pretty town (Gefle). Here the town-hall is a fin e building ; there are many very good houses, and a fine quay, where the small craft load, and where the deals and iron are taken in for the larger traders that lie in the harbour. There is a tolerable share of trade carried on from this port. Next to Gothenburg, I found this town the best I had seen in Sweden. There is a long pier projecting into the harbour, the shores of which are planted, where the ladies walk at the hour of promenade. Thti7'sday, Jtme gtk, — After a very uncomfort- able night — damp sheets and other annoyances — we set out at six. A very hot morning ; obliged to put up the head to guard us from the sun. About a mile (English) from Gefle is a very beau- tiful waterfall ; the mass of water is considerable, and the fall, I suppose, a hundred feet. The water escapes from the lake at three points, which gives a varied effect and makes the effect of three falls, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 295 meeting afterwards and forming a picturesque river. After reviewing the beauty of this scene, we were again en marche, and continued until our arrival at the hospitable mansion of Lofita, where we were cordially welcomed, both by the Count and Countess de Geer. Nothing could be kinder ; she was very agreeable. After chatting for an hour we were conducted by the Count to our apartments, where I enjoyed the aspect of a fine large damask bed. I dressed for dinner at two o'clock. Had a most comfortable dinner with their daughter (an only child), governess, music-master, and the Count and Countess. The day so hot that, until after tea, it was not possible to move. We then sallied forth on foot and looked into a forge or two, and walked through the gardens ; these are in the Dutch style. The ancestor of this family (De Geer) was a Dutch- man, who, above a hundred and fifty years ago, settled himself in this country, and established the greatest forges in Sweden : Finspong, this place, and several others. Count de Geer is reckoned one of the richest men in Sweden, and most highly respected. He passed some time in England, and speaks English very well. The house is very com- modious, and the gardens very tolerably looked after. 2g6 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S The workmen (1250) are all lodged in nice houses, bounding the road by which the traveller passes, and which have a perfect air of comfort ; all planted, and each family has a garden for the supply of vegetables. One constantly, day and night, hears the great hammers going ; the men are divided into two gangs, each working for four hours. Friday, June \oth. — After tea the Count took . us over his establishment, which is quite colossal, and organised to the utmost degree of perfection. Everything is made at home, I believe even the carriages ; at least, we saw a travelling landau preparing for a journey. The Countess manufac- tures 1400 yards of linen, of different sorts, each year ; damask table-linen is amongst the variety. In our promenade, we saw a cart and horse setting . out, which the Count told us was going for the water for next day's consumption, which was brought from a distance of two Swedish miles (thirteen English). We continued our promenade ; I went into one of the cottages, where I saw cleanliness and comfort. Each family has a large kitchen and a good sleeping-room, with a garden and a cow- house. The peasants usually possess four cows, and live upon hard rye-bread, herrings, milk, and MISSION TO SWEDEN. 297 potatoes ; seldom eat meat. They are certainly a healthy-looking race ; but I think in my travels I have scarcely ever seen so small a proportion of good-looking people in the lower class. Saturday, June iitk. — The heat continued to be quite overpowering ; thermometer in the shade, 26^ Celsius. We took our leave of certainly as hospit- able a mansion as any country can boast of. The Count seems to be quite the father of his dependents, and the Countess an excellent person. We drove the distance of two Swedish miles to Forssmack, the chateau of Count and Countess d'Ugglass. The Count met us at the door, and his wife descended half down the stairs to greet us. Forss- mack is higher and a finer place than Lofita. When the great heat abated, we walked in the pleasure- grounds, and drank tea in a nice garden-house. We continued our walk until actually driven in by mosquitoes. They are a terrible annoyance at this season. Sitnday, June 12th. — I had a long conversation with M. Olivier, a French military professor, upon the state of the mines and the progress of science. Certainly, since the time of Linnaeus, but litde has been done to raise Sweden, or even to keep up her 298 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S place in Europe. They say the chemist Barselius is a man of extraordinary talent and research. I had the good fortune to meet him in the Fahleen mine. I found that the family did not attend the church, although the view of it last evening was one of the ''lions." From the town the sea is in view; we saw several vessels. But though the view is extensive, scarcely an elevation of ground is to l^e seen. We walked home to tea ; and afterwards sat in the garden, devoured by gnats. Monday, /une i^^tk. — I ought to have mentioned a very respectable library at the Count de Geer's, and also here. In that of the Count de Geer is a very large quarto volume, the work of his father, upon Insects; every insect designed by himself, with the description and history written also by him. The little and great animals are beautifully executed, and correct to the minutest detail ; and, what is still more remarkable, the whole was done with a common pen and ink. Ttiesday, June \\th, — I went to the place of embarkation of the steamboat (distance, five miles, English) ; sailed at eight o'clock ; a beautiful day. The lake was in great beauty. At nine we reached Skogkloster, formerly a convent, a magnificent seat MISSION TO SWEDEN, 299 on the Mahler, possessed by the family of Brahe. It was granted after the Thirty Years' War to the great General Wrangel, who made it one of the most important places of the kingdom. It is an immense hollow square pile of buildings with a well in the centre ; the whole upper storey is filled with a large library and armoury ; nothing particular in the former, save quantity ; in the latter are many curious arms of very old date and historically very interesting ; we saw no gardens nor pictures. The place is never inhabited, and ill-kept. We pursued our route, and travelled most successfully through very varied scenery, and in parts with tolerably high hills, occasional residences of some magnitude. The taste of the country is always to build near water. Thursday, ftme i6tL — At seven o'clock I got on horseback to attend the King to the camp. His Majesty had a long talk with me upon the period when Sweden was obliged to declare war against England ; and he extolled the noble and generous conduct of England at that time, who, instead of annihilating the commerce of Sweden, protected it. Monday, /tme 20th, — I had my conference with Count Wetterstedt, and presented my two countrymen ; very intelligent gentlemen, particularly 300 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S a Mr. Cooper, son to the M.P. for Sligo, a great traveller. He was accompanied by a Venetian artist, who has made the most beautiful sketches imaginable of the scenery in their different journeys. They are going to Christiania ; thence to Torneo and St. Petersburg. Wednesday, June 22nd, — I drove to the King's, at Rosendall, where His Majesty presented me with a magnificent box, and said although the Count de Wetterstedt was properly the organ of his senti- ments, still he could not forbear assuring me himself of his esteem, and the pleasure he experienced in offering for my acceptance a little cadeatc in proof of his personal friendship. The Queen was late in coming, which put His Majesty a little out of sorts, having to go to the camp. Our dinner passed quickly, and after coffee we embarked and crossed a small lake between Rosendall and the camp, in a Royal barge, and then mounted our horses. The Prince Royal had already had the troops out for above an hour. The evening was very fine, and the scene beautiful. After sundry manoeuvres the King pro- posed going to the Pavilion at headquarters, where were assembled the people of Stockholm, the Queen, Princess, etc., seated outside. The view from there \ MISSION TO SWEDEN, 301 was as picturesque as possible. The Princess told the King that I had not been at the top of the Pavilion, from where the view is most extensive, when His Majesty most good-naturedly conducted me himself, and seemed greatly pleased with my admiration of the country ; the- scene was quite panoramic. Friday, Jzme 2\tL — I wrote until time to dress for the presentation of some Englishmen to His Majesty, who were most graciously received. Mr. Cooper was particularly struck with the King. They conversed about Egypt and Nubia, with as much facility and knowledge as if His Majesty had recently visited those countries. I went to His Royal High- ness's dinner at the camp, which was given in honour of the day. We were 200 at dinner. No- thing could be kinder than everyone was to me. His Majesty asked me to attend him to the inspec- tion of the troops and to see them file by, which was a creditable performance. In the evening there was a ball and supper at the camp, and the scene, with nearly all the population of Stockholm, was very beautiful indeed. His Majesty took me him- self to the roof of the Pavilion, to direct my attention to the beauties of the scene. When we went down 302 MEMOIR OF LORD BLOOMFIELD'S he most obligingly paid me all sorts of attentions. Dancing began about nine and continued till eleven, when we supped, and at about twelve got away, after a very pleasant day and particularly gratifying to me. The King, on taking leave, invited me to dinner the next day. Sattirday, Jitne i^th. — I went to the packet and made my arrangements for accommodation, etc. Returned to my desk, and at half-past three went to the camp to take leave of the Prince Royal, on my way to the King's, where I was to dine. Nothing in the world could be kinder than His Royal Highness, nor the whole of his ento2C7^age. I stayed nearly an hour with him ; he had finished his dinner, at which, he graciously said, he would have much preferred having me, but knew that the King ''would not spare me." I made my bow, and was attended to my carriage by all his gentlemen and a crowd of officers, all expressing good wishes and a speedy return. Arrived at the King's in good time and was most graciously received. I sat next His Majesty at dinner, who was all kindness ; and after dinner the King made me sit near him, when he said all sorts of gratifying and flattering things ; told me some interesting details of Marshal Ney, MISSION TO SWEDEN. 303 who began service under him. The Prince came after dinner, and was again more than kind. After walking about the grounds, and taking the com- mands of Their Majesties and Their Royal High- nesses, I bowed and retired, all expressing desire that I should soon come back from my journey to Russia. The Princess was particularly amiable ; she is the most delightful young creature imaginable. Monday, June 27/^. — At four o'clock set out, the day clearing up charmingly, with a light air and wind fair ; sailed immediately. The narrow passages and innumerable islands that bound the trajet rendered this sail most picturesque. We passed the fort of Waxholm, the first spot of Swedish ground on which I stepped upon arriving. Proceeded most admirably. Sat up until twelve p.m., when we read on deck a book of small print quite easily. END OF VOL. I. CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS. II, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, TV.C {Late 193, Piccadilly, W,) June, 188-4. CATALOGUE OF BOOKS PUBLISHED BY CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED, INCLUDING DRAWING EXAMPLES, DIAGRAMS, MODELS, INSTRUMENTS, ETC. ISSUED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF THE SCIENCE AND ART DEPARTMENT, SOUTH KENSINGTON, FOR THE USE OF SCHOOLS AND ART AND SCIENCE CLASSES. MILITARY BIOGRAPHIES. Messrs. 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TRANSLATIONS FROM MU- SiEUS, TIECK, AND RICHTER, 2 vols. THE EARLY KINGS OF NOR- WAY ; Essay on the Portraits of Knox ; and General Index. r> 2 20 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. ORIGINAL EDITIONS. In Demy Svo. THE MYSTERY OF EDWIN DROOD. With Illustrations by S. L. Fildes, and a Portrait engraved by Baker. Cloth, 7s. 6d. OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. With Forty Illustrations by Marcus Stone. Cloth, £x is. THE PICKWICK PAPERS. With Forty-three Illustrations by Seymour and Phiz. Cloth, £\ is. NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, ^i IS. SKETCHES BY " BOZ." With Forty Illustrations by George Cruikshank. Cloth, £,x is. MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, £\ IS. DOMBEY AND SON. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, ^i IS. DAVID COPPERFIELD. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, £\ IS. BLEAK HOUSE. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, ^I IS. LITTLE DORRIT. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, £t- is. THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. With Seventy-five Illus- trations by George Caltermole and H. K. Browne. A New Edition. Uniform with the other volumes, £,x is. BARNABY RUDGE : a Tale of the Riots of 'Eighty. With Seventy-eight Illustrations by George Cattermole and H. K. Browne. Uniform with the other volumes, ^^i is. CHRISTMAS BOOKS : Containing— The Christmas Carol ; The Cricket on the Hearth ; The Chimes ; The Battle of Life ; The Haunted House. With all the original Illustrations. Cloth, 12s. OLIVER TWIST and TALE OF TWO CITIES. In one volume. Cloth, ;^x is. OLIVER TWIST. Separately. With Twenty-four Illustrations by George Cruikshank. Cloth, iis. A TALE OF TWO CITIES. Separately. With Sixteen Illus- trations by Phiz. Cloth, 9s. ♦ » The remainder of Dickens's Works were not originally printed in Demy Svo, CHAPMAN a^ HALL, LIMITED. 21 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) \NO^¥J5^- Co7itinned. LIBRARY EDITION. In Post 8vo. With the Original Ilhtstraiiofis, jo vols., cloth, £12, PICKWICK PAPERS ... ' 43 Illii NICHOLAS NICKLEBY 39 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT 40 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP & REPRINTED PIECES 36 BARNABY RUDGE and HARD TIMES 36 BLEAK HOUSE 40 LITTLE DORRIT 40 DOMBEY AND SON 38 DAVID COPPERFIELD 38 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND 40 SKETCHES' BY " BOZ '" 39 OLIVER TWIST 24 CHRISTMAS BOOKS 17 A TALE OF TWO CITIES 16 GREAT EXPECTATIONS 8 PICTURES FROM ITALY & AMERICAN NOTES 8 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER 8 CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND 8 EDWIN DROOD and MISCELLANIES 12 CHRISTMAS STORIES from " Household Words," &c. 14 THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. By John Forstek. Willi Illustr Uniform with this Edition, i vol. los. 6d. THE "CHARLES DICKENS" EDITION. /;/ Crazvn 8vo. In 21 vols. , cloth, with Illustrations, £j i6s. s. d. trns. , 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, 2 vols. 16 ,, I vol. 8 ,, 1 vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 o ,, I vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 ,, I vol. 8 ations. 8 Ilhistrations 8 PICKWICK PAPERS MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT DOMBEY AND SON 8 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY 8 DAVID COPPERFIELD 8 BLEAK HOUSE 8 LITTLE DORRIT 8 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND 8 BARNABY RUDGE 8 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP 8 A CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND 4 EDWIN DROOD and OTHER STORIES 8 CHRISTMAS STORIES, from " Household Words " ... 8 SKETCHES BY "BOZ" 8 AMERICAN NOTES and REPRINTED PIECES ... 8 CHRISTMAS BOOKS 8 OLIVER TWIST 8 GREAT EXPECTATIONS 8 TALE OF TWO CITIES 8 HARD TIMES and PICTURES FROM ITALY ... 8 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER 4 THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. Numerous Illustrations THE LETTERS OF CHARLES DICKENS .. 2 vols .2 vols d. o o o o o o o o 6 3 6 s. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 7 8 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 o o o o o 22 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY DICKENS'S (CHARLES) ^O^YJ^~Co7itinued. THE ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY EDITION. Complete in jo Volumes. Demy 8vo, los. each ; or set, £i^. This Edition is printed on a finer paper and in a larger type than has been employed in any previous edition. The type has been cast especially for it, and the page is of a size to admit of the introduction of all the original illustrations. No such attractive issue has been made of the writings of Mr. Dickens, which, various as have been the forms of publication adapted to the demands of an ever widely-increasing popularity, have never yet been worthily presented in a really handsome library form. The collection comprises all the minor writings it was Mr, Dickens's v/ish to preserve. SKETCHES BY " BOZ." With 40 Illustrations by George Cruikshank. PICKWICK PAPERS. 2 vols. With 42 Illustrations by Phiz. OLIVER TWIST. With 24 Illustrations by Cruikshank. NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. OLD CURIOSITY SHOP and REPRINTED PIECES. 2 vols. With Illus- trations by Cattermole, &c. BARNABY RUDGE and HARD TIIvIES. 2 vols. With Illustrations by Cattermole, &c. MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. 2 vols. With 4 Illustrations by Phiz. AMERICAN NOTES and- PICTURES FROM ITALY, i vol. With 8 Illustrations. DOMBEY AND SON. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. DAVID COPPERFIELD. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. BLEAK HOUSE. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. LITTLE DORRIT. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. A TALE OF TWO CITIES. With 16 Illustrations by Phiz. THE UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. GREAT EXPECTATIONS. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. CHRISTMAS BOOKS. With 17 Illustrations by Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A., Maclise, R.A., &c. &c. 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Small 8vo, red cloth, gilt edges, 5s. 24 BOOKS PUBLISHED B\ DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WO'R.K.^—Coniinucd. THE POPULAR LIBRARY EDITION OF THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS, In 30 Vols,^ large crown Zvo^ p^'ice £6 ; separate J'ols. <\s. each. An Edition printed on good paper, containing Illustrations selected from the Household Edition, on Plate Paper. Each Volume has about 450 pages and 16 full-page Illustrations. SKETCHES BY *'BOZ." PICKWICK. 2 vols. OLIVER TWIST. NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. 2 vols. MARTIN CITUZZLEWIT. 2 vols. DOMBEY AND SON. 2 vols. DAVID COPPERFIELD. 2 vols. CHRISTMAS BOOKS. OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. 2 vols. CHRISTMAS STORIES. BLEAK HOUSE. 2 vols. LITTLE DORRIT. 2 vols. OLD CURIOSITY SHOP and REPRINTED PIECES. 2 vols. BARNABY RUDGE. 2 vols. UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVEL- LER. GREAT EXPECTATIONS. TALE OF TWO CITIES. CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENG- LAND. EDWIN DROOD and MISCEL- LANIES. PICTURES FROM ITALY and . AMERICAN NOTES. The Cheapest and Handiest Edition of THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS. The Pocket-Volume Edition of Charles Dickens's Works. In 30 Vols, small fcap. Zvo, £2 5s. New and Cheap hsne of THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS. In pocket volumes. PICKWICK PAPERS, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, 2s. NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, 2s. OLIVER TWIST, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, is. SKETCHES BY " EOZ," with 8 Illustrations, cloth, is. OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, 2s. BARNABY RUDGE. with 16 Illustrations, cloth, 2s. AMERICAN NOTES AND PICTURES FROM ITALY, with 8 Illustrations, cloth/is.6d. CHRISTMAS BOOKS, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, is. 6d. SIXPENNY REPRINTS. A CHRISTMAS CAROL and THE HAUNTED MAN. By Charles Dickens. Illustrated. READINGS FROM*" THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS. As selected and read by himself and now published for the first lime. Illustrated. (III.) THE CHIMES: A Goblin Story, a-nd THE CRICKET ON THE HEARTH. Illustrated. CHAPMAN 6^ HALL, LIMITED. 25 List of Books, Drawing Examples, Diagrams, l\/lodels, Instruments, etc.. 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FOLIATED SCROLL FROM THE VATICAN, unmounted, sd.; mounted, is. 3d. TWELVE HEADS after Holbein, selected from his Drawings in Her Majesty's Collection at Windsor. Reproduced iu Autotype. Half imperial, £j i6s. LESSONS IN SEPLA, 9s. per dozen. COLOURED EXAMPLES: A SMALL DIAGRAM OF COLOUR, mounted, is. 6d. ; unmounted, gd. COTMAN'S PENCIL LANDSCAPES (set of 9), mounted, 15s. „ SEPIA DRAWINGS (set of 5), mounted, £1. ALLONGE'S LANDSCAPES IN CHARCOAL (Six), at 45. each, or the set, ^i 4s. SOLID MODELS, &c. : *Box of Models, £1 4s. A Stand with a universal joint, to show the solid n'cdels, Sec, £1 i8s. ^One Wire Quadrangle, with a circle and cross within it, and one straight wire. One solid cube. One Skeleton Wire Cube. One Sphere. One Cone. One Cylinder. One Hexagonal Prism. £'2 2s. Skeleton Cube in wood, 3s. 6d. 18-inch Skeleton Cube in wood, 12s. *Three objects oiforvi in Pottery: Indian Jar, \ Celadon Jar, )-i8s. 6d. Bottle, j *Five selected Vases in Majolica Ware, £2 iis. ■*Three selected Vases in Earthenware, i8s. Imperial Deal Frames, glazed, without sunk rings, tos. each. ^Davidson's Smaller Solid Models, in Box, £1, containing — 2 Square Slabs. 9 Oblong Blocks (steps). 2 Cubes. Square Blocks. Octagon Prism. Cylinder. Cone. Jointed Cross. Triangular Prism Pyramid, Equilateral. Pyramid, Isosceles. Square Block. * Models, S:c., entered as sets, can only be supplied in sets. CHAPMAN 6- HALL, LIMLTED. 29 SOLID MODEI,S, ^c— Continued. * Davidson's Advanced Drawing Models, £g. — The following is a brief description of the Models : — An Obelisk — composed of 2 Octagonal Slabs, 26 and 20 inches across, and each 3 inches high ; i Cube, 12 inches edge ; i Monolith (forming the body of the obelisk) 3 feet high ; i Pyramid, 6 inches base ; the complete object is thus nearly 5 feet high, A Market Cross— composed of 3 Slabs, 24, 18, and 12 inches across, and each 3 inches high ; i Upright, 3 feet high ; 2 Cross Arms, united by mortise and tenon joints ; complete height, 3 feet 9 inches. A Step- Ladder, 23 inches high. A Kitchen Table, 1^% inches high. A Chair to corre- spond. A Four-legged Stool, with projecting top and cross rails, height 14 inches. A Tub, with handles and projecting hoops, and the divisions between the staves . plainly marked. A strong Trestle, iS inches high. A Hollow Cylin.der, 9 inches in diameter, and 12 inches long, divided lengthwise. A Hollow Sphere, 9 inches in diameter, divided into semi-spheres, one of which is again divided into quarters ; the semi-sphere, when placed on the cj'linder, gives the form and principles of shading a dome, whilst one of the quarters placed on half the cylinder forms a niche. ^Davidson's Apparatus for Teaching Practical Geometry (22 models), £$. ^Binn's Models for Illustrating the Elementary Principles of Orthographic Projection as applied to Mechanical Drawing, in box, £1 los. Miller's Class Drawing Models. — These INIodels are particularly adapted for teaching large classes ; the stand is very strong, and the universal joint will hold the Models in any position. JFood Models : Square Prism, 12 inches side, 18 inches high; Hexagonal Prism, 14 inches side, 18 inches high; Cube, 14 inches side: Cylinder, 13 inches diameter, 16 inches high ; Hexagon Pyramid, 14 inches diameter, 22^^ inches side ; Square Pyramid, 14 inches side, -22% inches side ; Cone, 13 inches diameter, 22^,^ inches side ; Skeleton Cube, ig inches solid wood i^ inch square ; Intersecting Circles, 19 inches solid wood 2.]^ by zy^ inches. Wire Models : Triangular Prism, 17 inches side, 22 inches high ; Square Prism, 14 inches side, 20 inches high ; Hexagonal Prism, 16 inches diameter, 21 inches high ; Cylinder, 14 inches diameter, 21 inches high ; Hexagon Pyramid, 18 inches diameter, 24 inches high ; Square Pyramid, 17 inches side, 24 inches high ; Cone, 17 inches side, 24 inches high ; Skeleton Cube, 19 inches side; Intersecting Circles, 19 inches side ; Plain Circle, 19 inches side ; Plain Square, 19 inches side. Table, 27 inches by 21 J2 inches. Stand. The set complete, ^14 13s. Vulcanite Set Square, 5s. Large Compasses, with chalk-holder, 55. *Slip, two set squares and X square, 5s. *Parkes's Case of Instruments, containing 6-inch compasses with pen and pencil leg, 5s. *Prize Instrument Case, with 6-inch compasses pen and pencil leg, 2 small compasses, pen and scale, iSs. 6-inch Compasses, with shifting pen and point, 4s. 6d. LARGE DIAGRAMS. ASTRONOMICAL : TWELVE SHEETS. By John Drew, Ph. Dr., F.R.S.A. Prepared for the Com- mittee of Council on Education. Sheets, £2. 8s.; on rollers and varnished, £^ 4s. BOTANICAL : NINE SHEETS. Illustrating a Practical Method of Teachmg Botany. By Professor Henslow. F.L.S. ^2; on rollers aivl varnished, ;C3 3S. CLASS. DIVISION. SECTION. DIAGRAM. (Thalamifloral Calyci floral Corollifloral Dicotyledon . . . . < ^ ^ ' * CorolliHora y \^ Incomplete \ Gymnospermous . . . . _ ( Petaloid . . . . f Superior Monocotyledons ..\ \ Inferior (Glumaceous 2 & 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 * Models, &c., entered as sets, can only be supplied in sets. 30 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY BUILDING CONSTRUCTION: TEN SHEETS. By William J. Glenny, Professor of Drawing, King's College. In sets, £\ IS. LAXTON'S EXAMPLES OF BUILDING CONSTRUCTION IN TWO DIVISIONS, containing 32 Imperial Plates, £x. BUSBRIDGE'S DRAWINGS OF BUILDING CONSTRUCTION. 11 Sheets. 2S. gd. Mounted, 5s. 6d. GEOLOGICAL : DIAGRAM OF BRITISH STRATA. By H. W. Bristow, F.R.S., F.G.S. A Sheet, 4s. ; on roller and varnished, js. 6d. MECHANICAL : DIAGRAMS OF THE MECHANICAL POWERS, AND THEIR APPLICATIONS IN MACHINERY AND THE ARTS GENERALLY. By Dr. John Anderson. 8 Diagrams, highly coloured on stout paper, 3 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 6 inches. Sheets £\ per set ; mounted on rollers, £2. DIAGRAMS OF TPIE STEAM-ENGINE. By Professor GopDEVE and Professor Shelley. Stout paper, 40 inches by 27 inches, highly coloured. Sets of 41 Diagrams (52^ Sheets), £6 6s. ; varnished and mounted on rollers, £\\ lis. MACHINE DETAILS. By Professor Unwin. 16 Coloured Diagrams. Sheets, £1 2S. ; mounted on rollers and varnished, £1 14s, SELECTED EXAMPLES OF MACHINES, OF IRON AND WOOD (French). By Stanislas Pettit. 60 Sheets, ^3 5s. ; 13s. per dozen. BUSBRIDGE'S DRAWINGS OF MACHINE CONSTRUCTION. 50 Sheets^ 12s. 6d. Mounted, £^ 5s. PHYSIOLOGICAL : ELEVEN SHEETS. Illustrating Human Physiology, Life Size and Coloured from Nature. Prepared under the direction of John Marshall, F.R.S., F.R.C.S., &c. Each Sheet, 12s. 6d. On canvas and rollers, varnished, £\ is. 1. THE SKELETON AND LIGAMENTS. 2. THE MUSCLES, JOINTS, AND ANIMAL MECHANICS. • 3. THE VISCERA IN POSITION.— THE STRUCTURE OF THE LUNGS. 4. THE ORGANS OF CIRCULATION. 5. THE LYMPHATICS OR ABSORBENTS. 6. THE ORGANS OF DIGESTION. 7. THE BRAIN AND NERVES.— THE ORGANS OF THE VOICE. 8. THE ORGANS OF THE SENSES. g. THE ORGANS OF THE SENSES. 10. THE MICROSCOPIC STRUCTURE OF THE TEXTURES AND ORGANS. 11. THE MICROSCOPIC STRUCTURE OF THE TEXTURES AND ORGANS, HUMAN BODY, LIFE SIZE. By John Marsha-ll, F.R.S., F.R.C.S. Each Sheet, i2S. 6d. ; on canvas and rollers, varnished, £\ is. Explanatory Key, is. 5. THE SKELETON, Side View. 6. THE MUSCLES, Side View. 7. THE FEMALE SKELETON, Front View. 1. THE SKELETON, Front View. 2. THE MUSCLES, Front View. 3. THE SKELETON, Back View. 4. THE MUSCLES, Back View ZOOLOGICAL : TEN SHEETS. Illustrating the Classification of Animals. By Robert Patterson. £2. ; on canvas and rollers, varnished, £■>, los. The same, reduced in size on Royal paper, in 9 Sheets, uncoloured, 12s. PHYSIOLOGY AND ANATOMY OF THE HONEY BEK Two Diagrams. 7s, 6d. CHAPMAN ^ HALL, LIMITED. 31 By GEORGES PERROT and CHARLES CHIPIEZ. Translated by Walter Armstrong, B.A., Oxon. With 452 Illustrations. 2 vols, royal 8vo, ^2 2s. " It is profusely illustrated, not merely with representations of the actual remains preserved in the British Museum, the Louvre, and elsewhere, but also with ingenious conjectural repre- sentations of the principal buildings from which those remains have been taken. To English- men familiar with the magnificent collection of Assyrian antiquities preserved in the British Museum the volume should be especially welcome. We may further mention that an English translation by Mr. Walter Armstrong, with the numerous illustrations of the original, has just been published by Messrs. Chapman and Hall." — Times. "The only dissatisfaction that we can feel in turning over the two beautiful volumes in illustration of Chaldsean and Ass^-rian Art, by MM. Perrot and Chipiez, is in the reflection, that in this, as in so many other publications of a similar scope and nature, it is a foreign name that we see on the title page, and a translation only which we can lay to our national credit. The predominance of really important works on Archaeology which have to be transl.ated for the larger reading public of England, and the comparative scarcity of original English works of a similar calibre, is a reproach to us which we would fain see removed ... it is most frequently to French and German writers that we are indebted for the best light and the most interesting criticisms on the arts of antiquity. Mr. Armstrong s translation is very well done. '- — Builder. "The work is a valuable addition to archaeological literature, and the thanks of the whole civilised world are due to the authors who have so carefully compiled thehistory of theartsoftwo peoples, often forgotten, but who were in reality the founders of Western civilisation." — G?-aJ>hic. By GEORGES PERROT and CHARLES CHIPIEZ. Translated from the French by W. Armstrong. Contaiaing 616 En- gravings, drawn after the Original, or from Authentic l3ocument?. 2 vols, imperial 8vo, £2 2s. " The study of Egyptology is one which grows from day to day, and which has now reached such proportions as to demand arrangement and selection almost more than increased collec- tion of material. The well-known volumes of MM. Perrot and Chipiez supply this require- ment to an extent which had never hitherto been attempted, and which, before the latest researches of Mariette and Maspero, would have been impossible. Without waiting for the illustrious authors to complete their great undertaking, Mr. W. Armstrong has verj' properly seized their first instalment, and has presented to the English public all that has yet appeared of a most useful and fascinating work. To translate such a book, however, is a task that needs the revision of a specialist, and this Mr. Armstrong has felt, for he has not sent out his version to the world without the sanction of Dr. Birch and Mr. Reginald Stuart Poole. The result is in every way satisfactory to his readers. Mr. Armstrong adds, in an appendix, a description of that startling discovery which occurred just after the French original of these volumes left the press — namely, the finding of 38 royal mummies, with their sepulchral furniture, in a subterranean chamber at Thebes. It forms a brilliant ending to a work of great value and beauty." — Pall Mall Gazette. The Saturday Review, speaking of the French edition, says : " To say that this magni- ficent work is the best history of Egyptian art that we possess, is to state one of the least of its titles to the admiration of all lovers of antiquity, Egyptian or other. No previous work can be compared with it for method or completeness Not only are the best engravings from the older authorities utilised, but numerous unpublished designs have been inserted. M. Chipiez has added greatly to the value of a work, in which the trained eye of the architect is everywhere visible, by his restorations of various buildings and modes of con- struction ; and the engravings in colours of the wall paintings are a noticeable feature in a work which is in every way remarkable. This history of Eg^Tptian art is an invaluable treasure-house for the student ; and, we may add, there are few more delightful volumes for the cultivated idle who live at ease to turn over— every page is full of artistic interest." 32 BOOK'S PUBLISHED BY CHAPMAN &= HALL, LIMITED. THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW. T Edited by T. H. S. ESGOTT. HE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW is published on the ist of every month, and a Volume is completed every Six Months. Thefollaiving are among the Contributors : — SIR RUTHERFORD ALCOCK. MATHEW ARNOLD. PROFESSOR BAIN. SIR SAMUEL BAKER. PROFESSOR BEESLY. PAUL BERT. BARON GEORGETON BUNSEN. DR. BRIDGES. HON. GEORGE C. BRODRICK. JAMES BRYCE, M.P. THOMAS BURT, M.P. SIR GEORGE CAMPBELL, M.P. THE EARL OF CARNARVON. EMILIO CASTELAR. RT. HON. J. CHAMBERLAIN, M.P. PROFESSOR SIDNEY COLVIN. MONTAGUE COOKSON, Q.C. L. H. COURTNEY, M.P. G. H. DARWIN. SIR GEORGE W. DASENT. PROFESSOR A. V. DICEY. RIGHT HON. H. F.WVCETT, M.P. EDWARD A. FREEMAN. SIR BARTLE FRERE, Bart. J. A. FROUDE. MRS. GARRET-ANDERSON. J. W. L. GLAISHER, F.R.S. M. E. GRANT DUFF, M.P. THOMAS HARE. F. HARRISON. LORD HOUGHTON. PROFESSOR HUXLEY. PROFESSOR R. C. JEBB. PROFESSOR JEVONS. ANDREW LANG. EMILE DE LAVELEYE. T. E. CLIFFE LESLIE SIR JOHN LUBBOCK, M.P. THE EARL LYTTON. SIR H. S. MAINE. DR. MAUDSLEY. PROFESSOR MAX MULLER. G. OSBORNE MORGAN, Q.C, M.P. PROFESSOR HENRY MORLEY. WILLIAM MORRIS. PROFESSOR H. N. MOSELEY. F. W. H. MYERS. F. W. NEWMAN. PROFESSOR JOHN NICHOL. W. G. PALGRAVE. WALTER H. PATER. RT. HON. LYON PLAYFAIR, M.P. DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI. LORD SHERBROOKE. HERBERT SPENCER. HON. E. L. STANLEY. SIR J. FITZJAMES STEPHEN, Q.C. LESLIE STEPHEN. J. HUTCHISON STIRLING. A. C. SWINBURNE. DR. VON SYBEL. J. A. SYMONDS. THE REV. EDWARD F. TALBOT (Warden of Keble College). SIR RICHARD TEMPLE, Bart. W. T. THORNTON. HON. LIONEL A. TOLLEMACHE. PL D. TRAILL. ANTHONY TROLLOPE. PROFESSOR TYNDALL. A. J. WILSON. THE EDITOR. &c. &c. &c. The Fortnightly Review is published at 2s, 6d, CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED, ii, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS,] [CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS. %>