413 J13 74 d d M JNIVERSITY) ai0ttiell Uttiveirsiitg f ibt^tg THE GIFT OF [■.A..x.. A:..'=\.^.\^ n>^4.o RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA. N. Y. __ , ^Cornell University Library SB 413.D13W74 The dahlia manual; a treatise on dahlia c 3 1924 003 419 268 H\ Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924003419268 f\ I The Dahlia Manual l-i A TREATISE OK DAHLIA CtTLTURE ULUSTSATSD w BY W. W. WILMORE DENVER, COLO. ^1 1907 SOUVENIR eorTION »HB WIU.IAlliOM-IIA»>]m CO., MMVn The Dahlia Manual A TREATISE ON DAHLIA CULTURE ILLUSTRATED ^^ By W. W. WILMORE 1907 PRICE 35 CENTS COPYRIGHTED 1907 BY W. W. WILMORE i;fc -jr' M.CL.^- -^T \-i PREFACE THE AUTHOR WENT Y- FIVE years ago I began my life study ^ni/l^ ^ K fli with the Dahlia as my mwf^mm i ■ i • j ^-l^^I^ subject. 1 entertained )M( ^3 but little thought, how- ever, at that time, that I would ever be known among the commercial growers of the land and still less thought that I would ever become the author of a modest little book. As a boy I fell a captive to the wiles of the Dahlia while innocently looking over a fence at some fine blooms in a neighboring yard — a simple act, yet a life work grew out of it. ^The past twenty years my work has been that of a commercial grower and originator of new varieties. ^ In the following pages my aim will be to present such informa- tion as IS most commonly needed in successful Dahlia culture. This work IS in no sense an advertising medium; neither will I attempt to fully cover all the field in minute detail. Con- ditions are almost as varied as locality and any attempt to formulate rules and instructions that will apply under all these varied conditions is beyond human reach. It will there- fore be obvious to the reader that specific information is to be operative only so far as climatic and other conditions may render them of practical use. CLASSIFICATION. DAHLIAS AFIE DIVIDED INTO SIX CLASSES CACTUS. These have long, narrow petals; some vari- eties quite regular in form, others v^ith curved and twisted petals. They may be solid in color, or shaded and variegated. DECORATIVE. These have broad, flat petals. The flower is also flattened in form. This class also has a wide range of colors and variegation. DECORATIVE FANCY. This name is generally apphed to the large rounded full flowers, with two or more colors, which may appear in the form of a lighter tip on the petal or in streaked or dotted petals. It is proper, however, to refer to any varie- gated flower as Fancy, regardless of the class to which it belongs. POMPON. Small flowers, rounded and full. This class takes m all miniature varieties of the Show and Fancy classes. SHOW. Large rounded flowers, showing only solid or self colors, but may frequently have shad- ings of color. To distinguish between Show and Fancy varieties, apply this rule: If the tip of the petal is lighter than the ground color it is variegated. If the tip is darker than the ground color it is a Show variety. SINGLE. This class is too well known to require de- scription. A seventh class may yet call for a place on the list. THE FRENCH COLLARETTE. This is a single form with a frill around the disc. HISTORICAL. The Dahlia derives its name from the Swedish botanist. Dr. Dahl, but for a time was also known under the name of Georgina, after Prof. George, of St. Petersburg. Its earliest known history is not yet very old. About the year I 65 7 Francisco Hernandez, a Spanish physician, wrote a book on plants, and among the plants de- scribed he mentions Dahlia variabilis, the species from which most, if not all, of our pres- ent varieties have originated. At that time it is probable that it was only known as one of the great multitude of botanical plants, without much, if any, thought of its future usefulness, for we find nothing further in print for 1 30 years. It is quite probable, how- ever, that some effort was made to improve and domesticate the plant toward the close of the eighteenth century, for in 1 787 Nicholas Joseph Thirerry de Menonville, a Frenchman, published an account of the Dahlias he had seen growing in the gardens in Mexico. Two years later, I 789, seeds were sent from the Botanic Gardens of Mex- ico to the Royal Gardens at Madrid, Spain, where it was given its present name. This lot of seedlings was lost two years later, as were several other lots sent to various places. But their stay, though brief, awakened a deep interest in the plant and its possibilities, and further attempts at its cultivation were now made in several European countries and it soon became quite popular. The work bestowed upon it, however, seems to have been more in the nature of a fad rather than intelligent study. Difficulty seems to have been encountered also in knowing how to keep the roots over to the next season. It should be borne in mind that up to this time all the varieties were single, the var- iegated and striped varieties leading in popular favor. The history of the first double forms is told as follows: M. Donkelaar, of Lou- vian, began a series of experiments with northen-grown seed in 1812. His first crop of seedlings was still quite single, but seed saved from these gave him some semi-double flowers in 1813, and seed saved from these again gave fully double flowers in 1814, the third generation of the northern-grown seed. These varieties continued to produce double flowers and the Dahlia now became immensely popular. The question naturally arises here: Why should northern-grown seed produce double flowers? A theory gives this answer: Nature, always alert to perpetuate itself, throws out extra petals to protect the tender seeds from the chill of the northern atmo- sphere. Be this true or not, certain it is that double varieties show a decided tendency in warm climates to become semi-double and single varieties in the North are hard to keep in true form. The first Cactus Dahlia originated in 1872, but was not placed upon the market until 1 880. It seems to have been a chance seedling, but may be a separate species. The original specimen was a bright scarlet of fine form but very short stem, but was neverthe- less a very welcome addition, and I adopted it as the central figure of my trade mark. It was introduced under the name of Juarezi, after President Juarez of Mexico, and is still listed in some of the catalogues. From this chance plant there has descended a mighty troop that has held the center of the Dahlia stage for the past twenty years, and the type is still showing marked improvement each year. Where it will end no one can say. The type embraces all the colors of the other types, in size from a small pompon to a diameter of seven inches, some with petals as narrow as a blade of grass, giving the flower more the appearance of a chrysanthemum than a Dahlia. At first the type was deficient in stems, they being either short and stiff or thin and weakly, but in recent years much improvement has been made, and there are a goodly number now with fine stems, twelve to eighteen inches long, which hold the flower quite erect. And while the stem is under discussion, let me say that some of the weak-stemmed varieties, while useless as a cut flower, are yet very valuable for garden plants. The drooping stem permits the flower to swing free of the plant, and when combined with the dark green foliage presents a picture of wonderful grace not seen in the more erect-growing plants. The Dahlia has always been notorious for sportive habits, and many and curious are the freaks to be seen. This is not only true of variegated varieties, but often appear- ing among varieties supposed to be quite staid and fixed in their colors. Some of the fancy varieties are very popular because of this wide variance in color, which keeps the grower guessing what is coming next. But while sports are common as stated above, yet all attempts to fix a sport into a new variety have been fruitless, for sooner or later they return to the parent color. The Dahlia is a native of Central America and Southern Mexico, where it grows wild upon the meadows and table lands to an altitude of 1 0,000 feet. SOIL AND LOCATION. rhe Dahlia loves an open, sunny situation and for convenience and ease in cultiva- tion a rich mellow soil is preferable. The Dahlia, however, possesses a happy, easy-going disposition, and readily adapts itself to almost any soil or situation, except dense shade and wet, sour soil. So, with these exceptions, I may say that soil at hand will do, if reasonable judgment be used in its preparation and the cultivation which is to follow. I have customers variously situated, from a few feet above sea level to an altitude of 8,500 feet; some on clear sand; some on loam and some on the heaviest of clay; yet all report the Dahlia as doing finely. The grower should remember that cultivation is first in importance and location second, for without proper and thorough cultivation failure is inevitable. I now recall a complaint from a customer of an order that was unsatisfactory. It developed that she had dug the holes for the tubers in a heavy sod with the end of her parasol. Having selected the location for planting, it should be thoroughly prepared by dig- ging — the deeper the better — and if this work can be done in the fall it will be in better condition for spring planting. FERTILIZER. If the soil is poor a little well-rotted manure should be worked in at the time of digging or plowing. On the question of fertilizer good judgment must be exercised or the ends most desired may be defeated. My experience on the question of fertilizer is widely at variance with the views and opinions commonly held. I have seen many Dahlias ruined by over-fertilizing. Heavy fertilizing produces a rank, sappy growth of foliage and gives the plant no time to think of flowers, or if they are produced at all they are small and inferior blooms, both in form and color. Another evil follows from the same condition. The dense, heavy growth of foliage becomes a harbor and breeding place for insect pests that feed upon the young, sappy growth and buds. But, as stated above, judgment must be used and fertilizer, also, if the soil is poor or if Dahlias have been grown for several years in the same location. As to kinds of fertilizer and the amount to be used, judgment must govern again. If the soil is capable of producing rank growths of weeds, little if any fertilizer is needed. For a heavy or medium soil I would use a rather coarse manure from the horse stable, in quantity from one to two good forks full to nine square feet. For a very sandy soil horse manure m which an equal part of clay has been worked makes a fine dressing, using a little more than the quantity suggested above. Sandy soils are hard to keep enriched unless underlaid with clay, as the rains leach the strength badly. Light, loamy soils are best treated with wood ashes or a light dressing of coarse bone meal (not bone dust). If bone be used, one good handful is sufficient to nine square feet ; ashes, about one quart to nme square feet. All the foregoing fertilizers should be spread over the surface of the soil and worked in at the time of digging or plowing. Never use fresh manure. Soils that are low and inclined to be wet can be helped greatly by a liberal dressing of air slaked lime. On such soils the hills or rows where the tubers are to be planted should be raised several inches above the ground level. An excellent plan applicable to all soils is to spread a mulching of barn yard manure over the surface or around the plants after the last hoeing or cultivating. This will pre- vent the soil baking and permit the small fiber root to come near the surface. The above general rules may be varied as experience may suggest. PLANTING. Having prepared the soil, await the proper time for planting. This should never be done when the soil is wet. In planting tubers lay the tuber in a horizontal position, as indicated in figure 1 . Cover to a depth of 4 or 5 inches, pressing the soil firmly over the tubers. This permits the new growth to at once begin the formation of new roots. FIG. 1. TUBER PLANTED IN PROPER POSITION. FIG. 2. TUBER PLANTED IN IMPROPER POSITION. which are to become the tubers for the next year. Thus a new stalk and new tubers will be formed. These new roots will take firm hold of the soil and keep the plant in proper position, a condition not possible when planted as indicated in figure 2, where it will be seen the germ or sprouting end of the tuber is at or near the surface of the ground, which will permit of no root action there. Nature, however, will provide roots and they will start from the lower end of the tuber. (See illustration.) The result will be a new stalk draw- ing its strength through an old tuber, which nature will begin to form as near as possible into the fibery growth of a stalk. This condition will seriously handicap the plant for its best work. If green plants (those grown from cuttings) are to be set the process is simple. Set the plants about four inches deep, pressing the soil gently around the roots or ball of earth if the plants are turned from a pot. If the soil is somewhat dry, use one quart of water to each plant, and then cover the wet surface with a little dry soil. Green plants should be shaded for a day or two if the weather is clear. DISTANCE TO PLANT. The proper distance for setting is the same for both tubers and plants, and should be not less than 3x4 feet for blooming purposes, if planted in a bed, or 21/2 to 3 feet, if in a single row. The aim in distance should be to leave space enough to get around each plant for cutting blooms and trimming off the old and faded ones (a work which must not be neglected). Where too much space is given it stimulates a growth of heavy side branches which often break of their own weight, rendering the plant unsightly. As stated above, these distances are for blooming purposes. In commercial nurseries where they are grown for their tubers they may be grown much closer. Excellent crops of tubers may be grown planted I by 3 feet. Tall growing varieties may be dwarfed to a considerable extent by pinching the top from the plant when six inches high. The same general rules will govern for both tubers and green plants, as to distance and culture. TIME TO PLANT. This, of course, must be governed by season and location. Tubers may be planted much earlier than green plants, and both should be planted as early as safe. In planting tubers it is not necessary to wait until frost is past, as there will be a delay of about twenty days between the time of planting and the appearance of the plant above the ground. So, if frost in a given locality comes as late as May 15, the tubers may be safely planted May 1 , which is the proper time for planting here. There is a long season, however, in which both tubers and plants may be planted. I have planted dry tubers as late as June 20 With good results. Earlier planting, however, is desirable, as it gives a longer season of bloom and the tubers become better matured. Green plants must not be set until all danger of frost is past. WATERING. This question in Dahlia culture is of primary importance. The Dahlia is quick to /esent extremes of either wet or dry, so the happy medium must be sought. If permitted to get too dry there is danger of not only stunting the growth, but of getting the plants rnfested with red spider. This insect is very injurious and extremely hard to get rid of. Bad as the results may be from neglect in watering, it is no worse, if as bad, as the com- mon error of ever-watering. Many people drench their Dahlias daily with water, whether they need it or not, and then write to know why their plants grow so tall and have so few blooms. Next to over-fertilizing I know of no more prolific source of failure than over- watering. Water forces a weak, sappy growth that is difficient in woody fibre, so neces- sary to a healthy, blooming plant. The reader should understand that I am here speaking of the plants in the earlier stages of their growth, and before the blooming period begins. A plant that has been properly grown and comes to the blooming period and is well set with buds and bloom, will require twice the amount of water that it did previously. In fact, there is little danger from this source when a plant is full of blooms. Water is best applied in the evening or early morning. If the grower is in doubt as to the progress his plants are making, it would be advisable for him to call upon some successful grower and make comparisons. TIME OF BLOOMING. As a rule. Dahlias should show buds when eighteen to twenty inches high (green plants a little earlier) , and be in bloom at thirty inches high. The time usually required to produce bloom from the date of planting a dormant tuber is from sixty-five to seventy-five days. But this time will vary considerably according to altitude and weather conditions. The figures given hold good here at an altitude of one mile above sea level. CULTURE. As soon as the sprouts appear above the surface start the hoe and cultivator. There must be no neglect of this important factor in Dahlia Culture, for Dahlias, like people, show their early training. For private gardens and parks the hoe and rake is all that is necessary, but for commercial growers horse cultivators with small teeth are the proper tools to use. The cultivation need not be deep but should be thorough and the soil kept loose and mellow. The fact should be always kept in mind that the hoe and cultivator are the best fertilizers that can possibly be applied to a growing Dahlia. This work should be kept up until the first blooms appear, at which time, if the tools have been properly handled, there should be a slight hillock around each plant or a slight ridge along each row, so that water will not lay around the plants. All tuberous rooted plants thrive best where the soil is mellow and yielding about their roots. Varieties growing above 3 feet in height should be tied to stout stakes to prevent the wind blowing them out of position. PROPAGATION. There are three methods of propagation in general use. Divisions of the roots, rooted cuttings and seed. Bp Division. If propagated in this way the work should be done in the early spring several weeks before planting time, and unless the person doing the work is skilled in the art it would be better to place the clumps that are to be divided in some damp material such as moss and keep them in a warm place for a week or ten days, that the eyes may appear to better advantage. It will then be much easier to make the divisions. A sharp knife and a pair of pruning shears are the proper tools to use in this work. First remove all decayed tubers and those that are broken at the neck and throw them away. Then split the stalk with the shears and work with shears or knife until the whole is reduced as far as possible to single tubers, being careful, however, that each piece has an eye. Persons familiar with this work often divide to the extent of dividing an eye in the center v/hen there is but one eye to two roots. Such heroic work, however, had better be left to the expert. After dividing the tubers they should be again packed in some damp material and placed in a warm place for a few days to heal the wounds made in dividing. After this they should be kept dry until planted. A common error among amateurs is to reset the whole clump or to only divide it in halves. This is not a good practice, to say nothing of the waste of valuable stock. Clumps must be divided if good results are to be obtained. A cluster of stems will never do the fine work produced by one strong stem. Even if a mass is wanted, I would still advise dividing small and then, if desired, plant closer — say, a foot apart. This will give better results than a cluster, each leaning away from the center. The size of the tuber is not so important as some imagine. Quite small tubers will do excellent work. B^ Cuttings. For more rapid increase the cutting process is the proper method. This method is confined almost exclusively to commercial growers and many millions are annually grown in this way; some to be sold as green plants; others to be grown through the season in small pots and ripened into what is known commercially as pot roots. The European trade deals almost exclusively in these two products. In this country, where space is not so valuable, these rooted cuttings are transferred to the open field and treated the same as plantations of tubers. In this way the stock attains a much larger growth than it would if confined in pots, and in general appearance resembles the stock grown from tubers, only it is not so large and, of course, not so well supplied with eyes. A number of good things may be said in favor of the cutting process, chief among which is that new and valuable varieties may be had years in advance of what would be required to work up a stock by the slower method of propagation by divisions. Then, again, a great quantity of stock can be grown in a small space. Still there are a number of serious objections to the method. But it is not the object of this work to cast reflections upon any legitimate branch of the industry; but I will say, in passing, that I am not an enthusiast over the green plant portion of the question. The pot roots, on the other hand, while generally very small, are nevertheless excellent planting stock, convenient and light for either mail or express, and may be reasonably true to name and free from mixture, as most of them bloom the previous year and thus afford an opportunity of picking out the mixtures. There appears to be some confusion in the public mind regarding the meaning of the terms pot plant and pot root. The green plant being often referred to as a pot root. This is not proper. A pot root is a dormant tuber of the previous season's growth. A pot plant is a rooted cutting of the present season's growth, and is handled commer- cially in a growing condition. The work of propagating should begin early in February. The stock to be propa- gated from should be the strongest and best of the previous season's growing. Place the undivided clumps upon the greenhouse bench or any convenient place where there will be a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees and good air and sunlight. Cover the roots almost to the crown with light soil or leafmold, manure if needed, can be given later on in liquid form. In a week or ten days the eyes will have started growth and when the first shoots are one inch in length cut them off and throw them away, as they never make good plants if indeed they ever root. In removing these shoots cut about a quarter of an inch from the base. This will cause the eye to broaden and a cluster of eyes to form, from which an increased number of shoots will spring. When the next growth has attained a growth of two pairs of leaves, cut the shoot with a sharp knife just below the lower pair, remove the two lower leaves and the cutting is ready for the propagation bench, which should have a bottom temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. There should be a convenience for shading the new cuttings from the direct sun's rays and a good supply of fresh air without strong drafts. As to the material in which to root these cuttings, there are different opinions. Some say clear, sharp sand; some loam mixed with sand; some leafmold; others, again, advise putting the cuttings direct into small pots for rooting. I prefer a sand loam. But all agree that there should be no manure in the rooting material. Cuttings should begin to root in from fifteen to twenty days, and should be potted off just as soon as the roots appear, moving from time to time to larger pots, or, if rooted late in the season, they may be transferred direct to the garden or nursery. Throughout the entire process of propagation from cuttings the greatest care must be used in labeling or the stock will get mixed and cause a deal of trouble. Bp Seed. This is the easiest of methods but not the most satisfactory, as a large percentage of the seedlings are decidedly inferior to the parent plant. But occasionally there is something developed that is superior and really good, and when we recall the fact that all the fine varieties which we now have were once chance seedlings, it should stimulate our hopes, even though we are disappointed with results. The wide range of color is emother interesting feature of seedling culture. In a hundred seedlings there will be little chance of finding two alike, except in the single varieties. Here red, yellow and purple are common colors. To grow good seedlings the work should be begun the previous year in gathering a supply of seed from the best plants possible. All Dahlias do not produce seed. Densely double varieties rarely have seed, but a fully double variety, when at its prime, will often show a small, yellow center as it fades, and from these some seed can be gathered. Single and semi-double varieties produce an abundance of seed. Start the seed in shallow boxes in March and transplant as often as necessary to provide growing room for the plants. They will come into bloom almost as soon as the tubers or plants. Where space is limited, I would recommend planting only the best of named varieties, but where there is ample space the seedlings will amply repay all labor bestowed. INSECT PESTS. There are a number of insects which feed upon the Dahlia, most of which are known as sucking insects; that is to say, they feed by means of a beak, which they thrust into the bud or growing branch and suck the sap. Such insects are the most difficult to handle, as their method of feeding renders them immune to poisons usually applied. The most troublesome insect which preys upon the Dahlia is the tarnished plant bug (Lygus Pra- tensis). This insect in adult form is slightly smaller than the common house fly. Its wings are closely folded under glossy shields. Another distinctive feature is the marking of a perfect triangle between the shoulders. The beak, which is nearly one-half the length of the body, is carried folded upon the breast. This insect feeds upon the buds when they are quite small, and also the young shoots. These wounds are fatal to the bud, and sometimes to the shoot, also. It is a very shy insect and moves to the back side of a bud or branch when approached. The young of this insect is green in color and more rounded in form. Another troublesome insect is the red spider. This is a very small insect which lives and operates chiefly on the under side of the leaf, sucking the sap and causing the leaf to turn yellow and die. It multiplies very rapidly, so it should be attended to as soon as its presence is known. It has no special liking for the Dahlia above other plants, but is the common enemy of a great number of plants, shrubs and vines. If it has a special liking for any plant I think it must be the sweet pea, as the brown foliage of that popular flower so often bears evidence. Where Dahlias are infected with this insect it is nearly always with those plants which were started into growth in a greenhouse. Dry tubers planted in the open ground are not apt to be attacked by red spider. The name red spider is appropriate, as descriptive of this insect only in its mature adult stage. In its early life and growing period, it is semi-transparent and quite light in color, changing to bright red at maturity. This insect cannot stand cold water, therefore if the hose be freely used in the evening, throwing the water with force against the under side of the leaves, a few applications will usually hold them in check. Where this is not practical, cut off the infested plant carefully and carry it out or burn it. These insects are trouble- some only at times, some years scarcely making their presence known. Remedial measures are best found in clean cultivation and a healthy, vigorous growth of the plants. I have treated these two insects at some length, as past experience has demonstrated that they have caused much of the trouble among growers. WINTER STORAGE. As soon as convenient after frost has killed the foliage, cut the stalks about two inches above the ground, and then dig the roots carefully. A spading fork is the handiest \tool for this work. The roots of the different varieties vary greatly in form. Some are compact and therefore easy to dig and handle; others have long, spreading roots with thin, weakly necks. Such roots are not easily handled, and more or less loss is inevitable, for they break at the neck of their own weight. The soil is best removed from the roots by lifting them slightly and with a hammer or other instrument rap on the end of the stalk. This will jar the soil free of the roots. They are then ready to label and pack away. In labeling it is better to use a painted label or the writing may be illegible in the spring. As to receptacles for these roots, use whatever is most convenient. Barrels are very con- venient, but boxes will serve the same purpose. In packing turn the clump of roots upside down so that any water or juice that has accumulated in the stalk may run out. Each barrel or box should be left with sufficient room on the top for a covering of leaves or moss. 1 his is not always necessary, but is a good precaution against mold or an atmo- sphere that is too dry. Sand makes a good packing material, but is too heavy to use in large packages. Commercial growers have cellars of special construction for this purpose, where packing material is not necessary. Where cellar room is not available or is rendered unfit by reason of a furnace, an outdoor pit makes a good place for storage. The pit must be located where no water will get into it and arrple covering to exclude the frost must be provided. VARIETIES TO PLANT. This question I leave open to the public taste. To recommend a list might prove more of a hindrance than a help. New and better varieties are coming each year; and then, again, a variety good in one locality may be very inferior in another. Some sug- gestions, however, in a general way may not be out of place. Procure the best varieties possible. They require no more space or care than the poor ones. Deal only with reliable dealers. Don't plant too many varieties. Aim at quality rather than quantity. and at all times remember that an old variety is not necessarily inferior. As a rule, I think, the purchaser, unless he is familiar with varieties, will do well to leave the selection to some responsible grower or dealer. Simply stating the colors and types wanted, and if wanted for cutting purposes this fact should also be stated, as the length of stem is a very important matter in selecting varieties. If the grower or dealer is honest he will see to it that your confidence is not misplaced. Another excellent plan is for the prospective purchaser to first visit the grounds of some up-to-date grower or park where Dahlias are properly named, and there make a list of names of varieties that are pleasing. As previously stated in these pages the Cactus types are leading in popular favor, and from the standpoint of artistic beauty the popular taste is well placed. Yet it is plainly evident that the older types — especially the decorative forms — will still hold a large share of the popular favor, as they possess a real worth not found in many of the newer introductions, chiefly because of their excellent qualities for cutting purposes. Some of the Cactus varieties are also excellent for this purpose, but as a class they are deficient in keeping qualities a/ter being cut, except in late autumn, when cooler days and nights retard their development. Then practically all varieties are good. Single varieties are still very popular with many, and were it not for a weakness they have of dropping their petals so quickly, they would be a very important factor in the cut flower trade. This weakness may be overcome to a great extent if the flowers are cut before they are fully open. FACTS AND FANCIES. Dahlias do not mix in color by being planted together. If they show variation in color, it is due to influences present when the tiny seed which produced the variety was in process of formation. These hereditary taints (or virtues) often lay dormant for years and then suddenly make their presence known by throwing out some color or variation quite new to the variety. This erratic tendency of the Dahlia even among varieties fairly constant in color is undoubtedly influenced grefitly by soil and climatic conditions. Some seasons the variegations are strongly in evidence, yet the same variety under similar con- ditions the next season may run largely to solid colors. In fact, this change may take place in the short period of a few weeks. One characteristic feature of variegated varieties that is noticeable is that the lighter shades in the variegation are not so stable as the darker shade. For instance, a red with a white tipped petal will gradually show less of the white until the white is practically eliminated, except for an occasional flower. The size and vigor of blooms may be greatly increased by removing the side branches and leaving but one bud to a leading branch. This is the common practice for producing exhibition blooms, but is neither necessary nor desirable for other purposes. A vigorous plant will produce a wealth of fine blooms without this forcing process. Five to twenty- five blooms at a time is not an unusual number for a healthy plant when it comes to maturity. For best results remove all dead and faded flowers. They are unsightly and tax the strength of the plant. TIME TO CUT BLOOMS. Dahlia blooms should never be cut in the heat of the day. They are then in a half wilted condition — a state which is hard to revive them from. This work should be done in the early evening or early morning — preferably the evening, as they will then have the 13 cool night in which to harden. If foliage is desired to mix with the flowers, it would be better to take some blind shoots from the lower portion of the plant rather than cut away the top where blooming growth is so much needed. On this point let me say that I do not recommend Dahlia foliage for a green, as it wilts quickly, and where the foliage is at- tached to the stem with the bloom, it causes the bloom to wilt also. It is far better to use some other green that is more lasting. REFORMS. A reform measure among commercial growers is a long time overdue. There are by far too many varieties grown and catalogued. Of the one thousand and more named varieties now before the public, six hundred should be discarded at once. The remaining four hundred should then be made to pass in review before a critical public, and after one hundred to one hundred and fifty have been selected the balance may be permanently excused. The list will then be in proper shape to select from and amply long for all practical purposes. FLORISTS' VARIETIES. For the cut flower trade the list should be very short and suitable to the purpose. A few varieties are preferable to many, and these should be clear, bright, self-colored flow- ers, though not necessarily deep colors; but should be selected to conform to the popular color tastes of the day. I would say that six to eight good varieties would meet the requirements of the cut flower trade, say red, scarlet, yellow, two shades of pink, and two white, one large and one small for design work. The latter need not have a long stem, but the others should have stems from twelve to eighteen inches in length, and as much longer as they may be had. The Dahlia is profitable as a cut flower and sells well in all large markets. A HARDY BORDER AT DAHLMOOR. (phlox and ALASKA daisy) FIELD VIEW OF DOUBLE .HOLLYHOCKS / *\.^ f^ ImmA i^HlajH mMiL 1 ^ *?^')B3yTPi ^m VIEW SHOWING A PORTION OF A BED OF MRS. WINTERS ON THE RIGHT Field Views of Dahlias and Hollyhocks at Dahlmoor PARTIAL VIEW TAKEN IN AUGUST