THE JOHN • CRAIG LIBRARY COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE S 521.M65 Cornell Uni iversity Library Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000946008 COUNTRY PLEASURES ABERDEEN UNIVERSITY PRESS COUNTRY PLEASURES THE CHRONICLE OF A YEAR CHIEFLY IN A GARDEN GEORGE MILNER ■tatf.i' >#,. _/ i ' -€ Mm NEW EDITION LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. AND NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET 1893 [All rights reserved^ MY WIFE, WHO SHARED WITH ME THESE "COUNTRY PLEASURES, THIS VOLUME 3b $ffecfionafefg ©ebtcafeb. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The Country Notes presented to the reader in this volume were written at the several places and upon the successive dates which are superscribed. They record, therefore, not afterthoughts, but immediate impressions and such moods of mind, whether transient or per- manent, as were actually induced by the scenes portrayed. As will be observed, the greater part of them have reference to a garden situated in an ancient parish on the south-eastern side of Lancashire. Although this parish or town- ship .is already threatened on one of its borders by the fast-approaching outworks of a great city, it retains some nooks of sylvan greenness, and a few places where rural quiet and com- parative seclusion still remain. Like that parish in which Chaucer's good parson laboured, it viii Preface. might even yet be fitly described as 'wide,' with 'houses fer asondur.' Of the garden itself it may be said that it possesses no especial advantages either of soil or of climate ; but it is large and old — extending over several acres and having considerable variety in the shape of wood and water, orchard and lawn, dingle and meadow. The reader who cares to know anything of the adjacent country — which is not usually thought to be attractive — will find it described in some of the later Notes, and particularly in those headed 'The Glen,' 'The Clough,' and 'The Moss.' It would have been better, perhaps, if these could have appeared in the earlier pages ; but, having been written at special seasons, the arrangement of the book re- quired that they should remain where they now are. To make the repetition of places and dates unnecessary, it may be explained here that the year referred to throughout is that of 1878; and that, where no locality is given, the writer's Preface. ix own homestead and garden at Moston are to be inferred. A word of explanation, and, in some sense, of apology, may be added with reference to the numerous quotations in this book. The reader is asked to regard them not as excrescences, nor even as extraneous gems selected for the enrichment of the text, but as something corre- lative with, and indeed essential to, the idea and plan of that which has been attempted. It has been the writer's habit to associate certain passages of literature with certain scenes of natural beauty, or with particular phases of country life, in such an intimate way that the pleasure given by the one was in no small degree dependent upon the existence and recognition of the other ; and as the writer's chief object has been to convey to the reader as completely as possible the delight which he himself felt, it became not only desirable, but necessary, to insert such passages as were already connected in his own mind with the things described. It remains only to say that x Preface. the division of the work into months and weeks will facilitate its use as a Year-book of rural seasons ; and that it is hoped it will, at least, show how far it is possible, even in the neigh- bourhood of a large town, to study the common aspects of Nature, and to interest the circle of a family in the simple pleasures and home-bred observances of a country life. In order to avoid encumbering the text, the Quotation-references, and a few explanatory notes, have been placed at the end of the volume. PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. That another edition of this book — the third in England * — should be called for is a pleasant proof of its acceptability. The English people have an inbred love for such records of rural life and are not ungrateful to those who furnish them. Since the first edition appeared in 1881 the writer has had abundant evidence of the gratification which his work — with all its short- comings — has afforded to many readers in different parts of the world. That his book should have secured admirers is but little ; that it should have made friends for him both at home and abroad is much more. From persons of English descent in America, Australia, and India, whose thoughts revert to the old country 1 An edition was also published at Boston, America. xii Preface. with singular affection, as well as from English- men temporarily exiled, he has received many warm acknowledgments of indebtedness. In the present edition a few corrections have been made, but the plan of the work forbade the addition of new material. April, 1893. CONTENTS. JANUARY. PAGE I. Spring Days in January 2 II. Returning Winter 4 III. A Fall of Snow 6 FEBRUARY. IV. The White Fog io V. A Frosty Morning 13 VI. Snowdrops 16 VII. The Crocus 20 MARCH. VIII. Spring-time in the Lake-Country 25 IX. Shrovetide 32 X. Daffodils - 36 XI. Spring-time on the Coast 43 xiv Contents. APRIL. PAGE XII. Mid-Lent and All-Fools' 48 XIII. The Lesser Celandine 53 XIV. The Daisy 59 XV. On the Moorland - 95 MAY. XVI. May-day 72 XVII. The History of a Throstle's Nest 77 XVIII. The White-thorn 83 XIX. Bees and Blossoms 88 XX. Still Days : the Chronicle of a Hedge-war- bler's Nest g3 JUNE. XXI. More about Birds : Meadow-pipit and Black- bird gg XXII. Whitsuntide : the Skylark 106 XXIII. Summer in the Midlands iio XXIV. Midsummer Nights and Days 117 JULY. XXV. Tropical Summer : In the Hayfield 123 XXVI. The Foxglove Garden 128 XXVII. The Summer Woods 133 XXVIII. Hot Summer again : a Gossip about Birds 139 XXIX. The Old-fashioned Garden 145 Contents. xv AUGUST. PAGE XXX. On the Coast of Arran : Wild Flowers and the First Aspect 153 XXXI. Corrie and Glen-Sannox 159 XXXII. By the Sea 167 XXXIII. On the Mountain 175 SEPTEMBER. XXXIV. Reminiscences : Ben-Ghoil and Loch-Ranza 183 XXXV. The Beginning of Autumn 194 XXXVI. The Wild West Wind 200 XXXVII. Autumn on the Welsh Hills - 205 OCTOBER. XXXVIII. Autumn on the Welsh Hills (continued) 213 XXXIX. Echoes of the Spring 221 XL. Aspects of Autumn in the Garden and the Wood 226 XLI. The Indian Summer 232 XLII. The Glen 238 NOVEMBER. XLIII. The First Week of Winter : Red-letter Days - 245 XLIV. A Snow-storm 252 XLV. The Clough - 257 XLVI. November Fog 266 Contents. PAGE DECEMBER and JANUARY. XLVII. The Moss "272 XLVIII. Winter in the Lake-Country 280 XLIX. Winter in the Lake-Country {continued) 286 L. An Old-fashioned Winter 298 LI. Christmas-Eve 306 LII. Conclusion : The Old Year ended, and the New Year begun 314 An Index of Quotations 327 Miscellaneous Notes General Index 333 337 COUNTRY PLEASURES. JANUARY. Nature never did betray The heart that loved her ; 'tis her privilege, Through all the years of this our life, to lead From joy to joy : for she can so inform The mind that is within us, so impress With quietness and beauty, and so feed With lofty thoughts, that neither evil tongues, Rash judgments, nor the sneers of selfish men, Nor greetings where no kindness is, nor all The dreary intercourse of daily life, Shall e'er prevail against us, or disturb Our cheerful faith, that all which we behold Is full of blessings. — Wordsworth, Tintern Abbey. 'Tis born with all : the love of Nature's works — It is a flame that dies not even there, Where nothing feeds it. Neither business, crowds, Nor habits of luxurious city-life, Whatever else they smother of true worth In human bosoms, quench it or abate. * Cowper, The Winter Evening. Country Pleasures. I.— SPRING DAYS IN JANUARY. January 17. It almost seems as if we were to have no winter this year, or only winter in its mildest form. And yet one cannot help having forebodings of what may still come upon us. I imagine that just as we usually have our short Indian summer, coming in the late autumn, so we have our ante-spring— our premonitory awakening. However, we had better take what we have got with thankfulness, and ward off the approach of pessimism by averaging the joys and sorrows of existence. To-day has had all the characteristics of opening spring — no clear sunlight, indeed, but a hazy tone of blue diffused over everything — seen in the sky and hanging about the moist ground. Those lines of Wordsworth, addressed to his sister in 1798, have been running in my head ever since morning: — No joyless forms shall regulate Our living calendar : We from to-day, my Friend, will date The opening of the year. One moment now may give us more Than years of toiling reason : Our minds shall drink at every pore The spirit of the season. Sorne silent laws our hearts will make, Which they shall long obey : We for the year to come may take Our temper from to-day. January. 3 And from the blessed power that rolls About, below, above, We'll frame the measure of our souls : They shall be tuned to love. Would that we might preserve such a temper and frame such a measure for the whole year long ! I have just come in from the garden ; and, though it is near midnight, the air is as balmy as if it were May ; and in the grey moonlight the whole land- scape is softened down to an exquisite harmony. For the last few days the signs of spring have been very manifest. The Christmas-roses are not gone yet, though they have been with us for more than six weeks ; but they are beginning to look forlorn, and are drooping on the beds. Perhaps the most joyous thing we have now is a yellow-jasmine. It is trained on a brick wall, in a warm corner facing the south- west, and is in full bloom. It is leafless, and has little or no fragrance, but the bright colour is enough. And then there are already three clumps of primroses in flower. They are on a sloping bank, looking north- west, but sheltered by a thorn-hedge some eight or ten feet high, which in a little while will be full of newly-made birds' nests. If we want to enjoy the approach of spring we must look for leaves as well as flowers. There are B 2 Country Pleasures. already plenty of dry twigs tipped with that reddish brown which means bursting life ; but the pleasantest thing to me is the foxglove foliage, the inner leaves of which are now of a bright green. It needs but little imagination to see, rising months hence from this vivid centre, the ' foxglove spire ' — grandest of our English wild flowers. II.— RETURNING WINTER. January 23. Since I last wrote we have had continuance of the mild spring weather until yesternight, when it became cold and boisterous. About midnight the sky was a line sight. The gibbous moon, rising late, seemed to be scudding through the deeps, now beam- ing out of a clear space, and anon plunging into a gulf of clouds. The wind was then in the west ; during the night it must have got into the north, for this morning there were little wreaths of snow in re- mote corners of the garden. Still the advent of life and verdure proceeds. The scrubby elder-bushes are, as usual, most forward, their new leaves being already uncurling ; and I notice that the crocus and snowdrop are pushing their spear-like points of foliage through the soil. The yellow-jasmine in the warm corner has January. 5 not lost a petal yet. Those who love the sun and live in places where there is not too much of his light should cultivate yellow flowers, especially such as grow in masses like the jasmine and the laburnum. They give a feeling of sunshine on cloudy days. By the way I should mention that our garden is rich in corners and alleys. This would follow upon saying that it is large and old-fashioned. The ancient pleasure-ground and the ancient house are always full of shady retreats and embayed recesses in which men meditate, and use devotion, and commune with friends, and, indeed, take all their highest pleasures. ' For the Side Grounds,' says Lord Bacon, thinking of some such places, 'you are to fill them with Varietie of alleys. Private, to give a full Shade ; Some of them, wheresoever the Sun be. You are to frame some of them likewise for Shelter, that when the Wind blows Sharpe, you may walke, as in a Gallery.' In the particular corner of which I have been speaking, where we always get out of the sharp wind, there are, besides the yellow-jasmine, a few rose-bushes ; a shapely thorn with a seat under it made of a large root sawn in two ; and a little Dutch-garden in which the tulips and crocuses will first be seen. In one of Mr. Ruskin's Oxford Lectures there is a noticeable passage about the dove, where he says Country Pleasures. that the plumage of that bird when watched carefully in the sunshine is ' the most exquisite, in the modesty of it's light, and in the myriad mingling of its hue, of all plumage.' I know how wonderfully beautiful these feathers are when in motion, for I often watch a flock of doves as they are feeding on the lawn ; but I am not sure Mr. Ruskin would have spoken so abso- lutely if he had remembered the plumage of the pea- cock's neck. We have one of these birds, which comes and stands by an open window and eats from my hand, so that I have abundant opportunity of observing his glorious colour. To me its splendid glancing and vanishing of green and blue, yellow and purple, seem finer than that of the dove ; and yet it is also ' modest,' for the homely brown feathers, over which the coloured ones are thrown like a delicate scarf, play through, and tone down, what might otherwise seem comparatively coarse and gaudy. III.— A FALL OF SNOW. January 30. Winter, as I expected he would, has been re- asserting himself. Our primroses have been covered up with snow, and we have turned from thoughts of spring to those of the time — January. When birds die In the deep forests ; and the fishes lie Stiffened in the translucent ice, which makes Even the mud and slime of the warm lakes A wrinkled clod, as hard as brick ; and when Among their children, comfortable men Gather about great fires, and yet feel cold. The snow was grand while it lasted — a dry, dusty, frozen snow. The children were hilarious. Hardly anything produces such keen enjoyment, such ' tipsy jollity ' in a healthy and unspoiled child — or, for that matter, in a child-like man— as the sight of new- fallen snow. Our little sledge was got out, and ran bravely along the paths, making the powdered snow fly before it in clouds : there was even rough skating to be had on the beaten track in the lane, and before evening there was a snow-man on the lawn — at least the thing, by courtesy, was called a ' man,' but the sculpture was certainly pre-artistic. I could find his head, and perhaps his nose, but his legs were no more discoverable than those of bold Widdrington at the battle of Chevy Chase. The week has been notable for its fine sunrisings and its clear nights. This is the time of year to watch the sun come up : in summer we are too late abed to enjoy his appearing. It was very delightful to see the first rosy colour flush the snow-furrows Country Pleasures. while the moon was fading away in the south-west, the sky being entirely clear under the influence of a whistling north wind. No other wind gives the shrill whistle that the north does. The south sighs, the south-west sobs, the north-west blusters, but the true north seems to blow a thin, keen note through a high-pitched reed. Under the influence of frost, the birds, as usual, become bolder and more persistent. They flutter about the windows, and perch on the rhododendrons, waiting for their accustomed crumb-breakfast. The robin takes his seat on a pear-tree branch which has become loosened from the wall : this coign of vantage enables him to look into the room. We are more glad, I think, of the chance of seeing him even than he is of seeing us. It is at night, however, that the feeling of winter is most strong ; and the dumbness of it is the first thing that strikes you : there is much to see, but nothing to hear. The watercourses are frozen"; the birds are all hidden — who knows where ? — and the winds are still ; but how beautiful are the white leaning roofs of our old homestead, and the red glimmer in the windows of the neighbouring farm, seen across a long stretch of snow ; and how mar- vellously the stars seem to dance among the black branches of the trees ! January. 9 Last night, I imagine, the cold was more intense than at any time this season, if one may judge from the frost-tracery on the windows. Would it not be possible to get a ' nature-printed ' photograph of this mimic representation of tropical fern and palm- jungle ? As all hope of flowers, out of doors, is gone for the present, we naturally turn to the green- house for the beauty of colour. There we get, just now, bright pots of the Chinese-primrose ; camellias, white, damask, and pink; the deutzia, covered thickly with blossoms ; and the delicate, crimson-tipped cy- clamen. io Country Pleasures. FEBRUARY. When the shining sunne laugheth once, You deemen the Spring is come attonce ; Tho gynne you, fond flyes ! the cold to scorne, And, crowing in pypes made of greene come, You thinken to be Lords of the yeare ; But eft, when you count you freed from feare, Comes the breme Winter with chamfred browes, Full of wrinckles and frostie furrowes, Drerily shooting his stormy darte, Which cruddles the blood and pricks the harte. Spenser, The Shephcards Calender, Fcbruarie. IV.— THE WHITE FOG. February 6. The thermometer just too high for freezing, and yet low enough to starve the blood ; the spectral trees glimmering through a white fog ; your horizon only some twenty yards distant ; — under such con- ditions the Earth is not a cheerful place to live in. And, to make it worse, this state of things came after a clear and beautiful day. In the morning the sky was barred with luminous clouds, the ice was over an February. n inch thick on the pond, and at night we had a whole hemisphere of stars — a rare thing with us— not a rag of cloud or suspicion of smoke to be detected by any scrutiny. At eight o'clock Venus had just gone down in the west, brilliant enough, I should think, to cast a shadow, certainly irradiating perceptibly a consider- able arc of sky, and making all the stars in her vicinage look pale ; the jewelled belt of Orion was sparkling in the south ; the Seven Sisters lambent overhead ; and the tail of the Bear pointing down- ward to north-east. At such a time a curious feeling comes up in the mind which it is difficult to express — a feeling that we are not merely isolated dwellers upon the Earth ; but interested spectators of, and, indeed, participators in, the larger and grander system by which we are surrounded. It seemed as if at last we were really going to have that long, long frost which somebody had prophesied. The antiquarian member of our circle went over the well-worn story of the frozen Thames, the fair, and the roasted ox, and the rest of it ; and our boys were planning a fire in the winter-house, and a grand bout of torch-light skating on the pond. But 'the best-laid schemes gang aft a-gley,' a milder counsel prevailed among the winds, the south chose 12 Country Pleasures. to blow, and down upon us came both the fog and a partial thaw. Is anything worse than fog in winter ? Dante, with a proper insight, makes the Inferno foggy — To no great distance could our sight Through the thick fog and darken'd air discern ; and again — Now let thy visual nerve direction take Along that ancient foam, and where abide The densest fogs. Of course, there is a fog in the Ancient Mariner. Coleridge could not have missed such an opportunity ; and, mark, it is a white fog, the most ghastly kind, and that from which we have been suffering : — In mist or cloud, on mast or shroud, It perched for vespers nine ; Whiles all the night, through fog-smoke white, Glimmered the white Moon-shine. Tennyson, too, has made good use of this same white fog. In the sad opening of Guinevere we have it : — ■ The white mist, like a face-cloth to the face, Clung to the dead earth, and the land was still ; and in the Passing of A rthur, when that last battle of the west was going on, and when friend and foe were all as shadows, we are told that — A deathwhite mist slept over land and sea : Whereof the chill, to him who breathed it, drew Down with his blood, till all his heart was cold With formless fear. February. 13 This is bad enough ; but there are always compensa- tions. In the cheerless twilight I was walking in our little wood, when all at once a robin started from a bough in front of me, and, as he will do even in the dead of winter, piped forth his flute solo. The chill had not been drawn down into his blood. But it was soon over : the short song and the last flicker of day- light both died away together. V.—A FROSTY MORNING. February 13. There are few appearances of winter more pleasant than the typical ' frosty morning.' I have not seen Turner's picture of that name ; but the spectacle of which I am thinking could not have been painted even by him ; nor by any could it be adequately de- scribed. We had such a morning yesterday. The sky was not clouded, but it was covered with a haze which was itself so full of light that it might be said to have had the quality of brightness. The sun rose only two or three fields away : he was a near neigh- bour ; his light streamed through the hedges ; he seemed to be set in the middle of the landscape, and to be turning everything to his own substance and colour. A hardy white-rose bush, conspicuous for its forward 14 Country Pleasures. leafage, glittered all over with pearl-like drops of frozen moisture, which were mingled curiously with the little green buds. Very beautiful also were the long shadows of the trees stretching across the hoar- frosted lawn. My own shadow — Spindling into longitude immense, In spite of gravity, and sage remark That I myself was but a fleeting shade, Provoked me to a smile. With eye askance I saw the muscular proportioned limb Transformed to a lean shank. The shapeless pair, As they design'd to mock me, at my side Took step for step. The weather notes of the week would furnish a record of the most various and diverse character; frost and thaw, rain and fog, sunshine and gloom, alternating and contrasting sharply with each other. The seasons have seemed out of joint, and' the charac- teristics of November have prevailed rather than those of February. And yet there are abundant signs that spring progresses. It is curious to note, indeed, to what an extent the resuscitation of life goes on, inde- pendently of exterior conditions. The mere lapse of time, 'the process of the suns,' apart from the accidents of heat and cold, seems to advance the march of existence, as it is said to ' widen the thoughts of men.' Walking at noon in the lanes when the frost had melted a little on the hedge-banks, although the ice February. 15 was still thick in the ditch below, I could detect the opening leaves of a ranunculus and of two or three bright little trefoils. In the open garden the only new flower is the hardy polyanthus, some tufts of which are just ready to break into bloom. In the greenhouse there is a new pleasure : the many- coloured hyacinths are open, and load the air with their delicious odour ; there is also the delicate blossom of the Scilla-amoena, a dainty bit of aerial blue, more exquisite even than that of our English forget-me-not. In the hot-house the most striking things are the begonias, with their pale-pink and eccentrically-shaped flowers ; and in the fernery we have a myriad-twinkling of green, an unfolding of woolly crook-shaped and caterpillar-like buds ; and, best of all, a row of hart's-tongue, the new leaves of which look like six or seven white eggs laid in a green nest. Some of the old fronds of these are over two feet in length. I think those were not much larger which one used to see growing so luxuriantly on the sides of the draw-well in the courtyard of Conway Castle. That the birds have not had a hard winter is obvious from the clusters of red berries which I still find hanging on the hawthorn bushes. Every day now they become more noisy, more demonstratively 16 Country Pleasures. busy and officious ; but one must admit that even their elementary twittering brings a joy to the heart such as the most elaborate music would not give. In the dove-cote I see that nest-building is going on with energy ; but I do not find that there are any eggs yet. The statutory time for these, I am told, is the feast of St. Valentine. I am much interested in an ancient-looking sparrow which comes and sits in a large thorn over my head while I am feeding the doves and peacocks. After the larger creatures have gone to a respectful distance he drops down, and in a very self-satisfied manner picks up the morsels that remain. He is a philosopher. If he cannot have first, and best; he takes what he can get with dignity and composure. VI.— SNOWDROPS. February 20. These first flowers of spring — what a gracious charm they have, a charm which is all their own ! The meanest and poorest little blossom is more to us to-day than a whole parterre of gaily-coloured, summer favourites will be a few months hence. ' I only wish to live till the snowdrops come again ; ' one can under- February. ij stand that line better if one has ever seen the face of a sick child, who has been imprisoned all the winter, light up at the sight of an early spring flower. Our snowdrops came out on the nineteenth. I found the first one at the foot of the yellow-jasmine, whose flowers, by the way, are almost quite fallen. I thought it was alone — only a forerunner — but I soon discovered that they were out all round, in the wild- garden, and along the beds. What a perfect piece of work it is ; and what a delicate harmony is the result of its snow-whiteness streaked with pale green ! No wonder it should stand for us as an emblem of unsullied purity : — Make Thou my spirit pure and clear As are the frosty skies, Or this first snowdrop of the year That in my bosom lies. The sunshine which brought out the snowdrops removed the final remains of our snow-man, for the last vestige of him disappeared on the same day. One of my little people came to me with quite a piteous face to say that the ' man ' was all gone. However, he had an existence of three weeks, and his end was classical. He was himself his own monument ; and, in a certain sense, he may be said to have been disposed of by cremation. Country Pleasures. Lord Bacon held that all life was larger and more vigorous ' upon the full of the moon.' I have noticed this week that one or two of our nights, lighted by the full moon, have been in great contrast with our days. The latter were common-place, colourless and dreary — the sky blotted with featureless clouds ; but at night, a wind springing up, as is often the case, existence became a grander thing. I saw the moon roll up out of the east — and what a roll there is in her motion when she is near the earth— of such a breadth as to make her appearance startling and phenomenal. And then began her slow ascent through a clear sky. Could I help reverting to those magical lines in the old sonnet — With how sad steps, O Moone, thou clim'st the skies ! How silently, and with how wanne a face ! but when, at last, she reached the zenith, the senti- ment seemed to change ; she was now regnant, and I said to myself — The Moon doth with delight Look round her when the heavens are bare ; and again — The moon rains out her beams, and heaven is overflowed. It was a glorious picture ; and the note of it was unity and simplicity ; no stars to lead away the mind, no clouds, and hardly any shadow ; only the moon February. 19 and the sky which held her, and the receptive earth. How still and quiet the old house looked with only its one light glimmering — a home of sleep standing in the midst of its moonlit belt of evergreens ! After this came some real spring weather. The sun for the first time in the year could be felt as a source of perceptible warmth, that warmth which, like wine, makes glad the heart of man. A brisk wind made a pleasant noise, and tossed about the bare branches of the trees ; the short, new blades of grass could be seen in the meadows, distinguishable by their freshness from those which have been compara- tively green all through the winter ; the strawberry leaves began to unfold their fans, and the gooseberry bushes were covered with leaf-buds, which looked like , pin-points of light. Towards evening the sun had done his work of calling forth the new stream of insect life : and in the level beams one could see the strange dance of gnats going on — the curiously monotonous pirouetting up and down a two-feet space of air. A short life, I suppose, and a merry one. c 2 20 Country Pleasures. Mil.— THE CROCUS. February 27. In our Calendar of flowers this must be the week of the crocus, as the last was that of the snowdrop. The two flowers are always pretty near to each other in point of time. The colder and paler blossom comes first, but the warm crocus is never long after it. By the ' warm crocus ' I mean, of course, the deep yellow one, which is the most characteristic and the most precious, because it looks like sunshine on the ground, now, when sunshine is scarce. The yellow is indeed wonderfully brilliant — brilliant almost as a flame. Tennyson quite appropriately makes CEnone say- Naked they came to that smooth-swarded bower, And at their feet the crocus brake like fire. One must not despise, however, the other two colours, the lilac and the white, which are beautiful enough in themselves — the white especially, when it is fully opened and shows its large saffron-coloured stigma. That would be no starved or unlovely garland which one might make of flowers culled entirely from the pages of our lesser and almost unknown pcets. The other day I lighted upon the following dainty fancy by Sebastian Evans : — February. 21 Come, gather the crocus-cups with me, And dream of the summer coming : Saffron, and purple, and snowy white, All awake to the first bees humming. The white is there for the maiden-heart, And the purple is there for sorrow : The saffron is there for the true true love, And they'll all be dead to-morrow. Like many other good things, the crocus is a gift from the east ; and Milton appropriately puts the flower into his Paradise. Under foot the violet, Crocus, and hyacinth, with rich inlay Broidered the ground, more coloured than with stone Of costliest emblem. Finding the crocus out in my own garden, I strolled towards an old house, not far distant, where I knew I should see them in greater profusion. Passing under a row of beech trees, I descend a steep lane paved in the middle with the old-fashioned cobble, and at the side with larger stones as a causeway. On the banks here, when I was a boy, I used to gather the speedwell and the violet ; but they are gone now, and I fear are not destined to return. At the bottom, in what is locally called ' The Hollows,' are three or four cottages which lean fraternally to- gether. Two or three streamlets gather into a brook ; and as each water-course has its own tiny valley, the 22 Country Pleasures. conformation, for so small an area, is singularly varied. A tall wood overhangs and makes, from most points, a fine background. The cottages are white, but weather-stained ; the roof-lines bend and waver ; and on each gable there is the old ball-and-pinnacle decoration. Long ago there was a water-wheel and a mill here. Allusion is made to this in an inscrip- tion, couched in questionable Latin, over the porched door of one of the cottages : — T. S. S. Hanc domum 1713 Condebant Molam 1714 Homo Viviscit Tunc Fabricat Mox Occumbit. Ascending, again, by another short and steep lane, I come upon the old mansion ; and on the grassy brow in front I see the crocuses again, as I have seen them now, never failing in their season, for more years than one would care to name. They are not all out yet, but a few sunny days will bring them into full bloom ; and then many a pale mechanic will be seen wandering out from the town in the evening, with his children by the hand, to look at the familiar sight. It is a good thing to plant crocuses, as these have been planted, in the grass, after they have February. 23 flowered one year in the beds : they need no more removing and multiply themselves without trouble by throwing off new bulbs. Few of those who come to look at the crocuses will now see the ancient lady of the house, who, how- ever, still watches over the flowers. Charles Lamb would have delighted to sketch both her form and character. She is a survival from a statelier age than ours ; sweet in manner and yet reserved ; an aristocrat without a title ; careless of the rich, but kind to the poor, and curiously reverenced by such of them as are native to the soil, who always speak of her, by an affectionate courtesy, as ' the Lady Mary.' Alas ! here, too, all is changing, and she must often look out sadly enough on the ordered files of modern houses which are marching with ominous rapidity towards the once secluded home of her childhood. The weather this week has been for the most part dim and rainy; and yet the sky has not been without beauty, especially towards dusk — the beauty of soft grey cloud breaking into many shades, as the light moved behind it, and woven across by the dark branches of the trees. At six o'clock in the evening I heard the thrush singing for the first time in the wood : for a few minutes there was quite a chorus of birds, but his note, mellow and yet loud, overpowered 24 Country Pleasures. them all. The house-pigeons are sitting. In the open air the birds are beginning to mate, but there is no nest-building yet. A leafless mezereon which stands in the orchard - house — where there is no artificial heat but only pro- tection from exterior cold — is in full bloom ; and a pear-tree on a south-west wall is covered with yellow and glutinous-looking leaf-buds. At the foot of the same tree there is a bunch of ' living green,' which, later on, will climb higher up the bole, and array itself in the delicate blossoms of the sweet-pea. March. 25 MARCH. Slayer of the winter, art thou here again ? welcome, thou that bring'st the summer nigh ! The bitter wind makes not thy victory vain, Nor will we mock thee for thy faint, blue sky. Welcome, O March ! whose kindly days and dry Make April ready for the throstle's song, Thou first redresser of the winter's wrong ! William Morris, The Earthly Paradise. VIII. -SPRING-TIME IN THE LAKE-COUNTRY. Legberthwaite : March 4. We shift the basis of our Country Notes this week from Moston to Thirlmere and the Vale of Saint John. It is a 'far cry,' and our journey hither was not over till after midnight — a rainy and a murky midnight. At first a certain fascination arises from passing in the dark along roads and through scenes, every turn and aspect of which have become familiar to you ; but at length this becomes wearisome ; we are jaded ; we hear only the monotonous clatter of 26 Country Pleasures. the horses' feet, see only the tree-trunks hurrying past, and now and then the white foam on the lakes ; but once in-doors and there is a right hospitable welcome and a blazing fire. In the morning the rain had passed away, and only to look out through the chamber-window was peace. We are sojourning in an old country-house, built in the early part of the seventeenth century, and like all such houses, quaint and rambling, but every- where suggestive of repose. A smooth lawn slopes down gently to the lake's edge ; but on the further shore are the savage fells, and behind us is the breast of Helvellyn. The rooms are not large, but they have been built for comfort ; and, just as in some of our old cathedrals, one finds every style and random fancy of architecture, from the earliest arch to the latest reredos ; so here one sees, either in the struc- ture itself or in its furniture, something which will mark for us every quarter-century, perhaps, since the foundation was laid. The floors are polished : the staircase is of black oak, with twisted rails ; one small piece of painted, ancestral glass adorns the landing ; grates and mantelpieces are Georgian — they make you think of the wigs which many a night must have nodded over them ; and up and down the apartments there are dainty-looking black chairs, with traces of March. 27 faded gilding upon them ; queer mahogany cabinets, obese and bow-legged, adorned with lacquered metal- work; water-colour sketches very early and very pale; ingenious devices in silver, almost worn away by much polishing ; implements of sport and of the field- saddle and bridle, boot and spur, hook and net ; and, last, many an old folio — sermon or history or devo- tion — resting still in its ponderous and musty calf- binding. It is not difficult to shape for oneself the kind of life which people must have led in an ancient house like this long before the poet Gray had so much as discovered the country. What delightful summer days they must have had, when the old-fashioned garden with all its sweet posies was in bloom, and when the bees were out on the fells ; and what wild winter nights, when even Keswick would be cut off, and when Dunmail Raise was blocked with snow ! A lonely, leisurely, uneventful, and yet, withal, an eminently comfortable life. Among the bookish treasures which I turned over here, perhaps the most fruitful in making the past familiar to me was a manuscript volume of cookery recipes, the ' painful ' record left by some notable housewife of the last century. It bears the date 1721, and is written in the large, upright, and ornate hand of the period. There 28 Country Pleasures. was at any rate no stint of cunningly-devised dainties in those days. We read of how to make ' strong mead ' and how to make ' small mead,' along with many other comforting drinks ; and how to make ' rare sweet water.' Think what water it must have been when this was the initial process : ' Take mar- joram, lavender, rosemary, muscovy, thyme, walnut- leaves, damask roses, and pinks.' And here is a recipe in full, which I give with all its quaintness and singularity of spelling : — To make Gelles of Current. Pull ye Currens when they are Drye and pick them, and put a few Rasps to it, if you have them ; and Sufuse them in an Earthen pott all night over the fire in a Cettle full of water; but mind that ye water Do not gett into ye pott ; then squese them in your hands and strain them through a Cloth, taking care of ye seeds that they goe not in ; and to Every pint of Serrip a pound of Double Refined Shugar, and beat it ; put your Shugar in ; Set it over Clear Coals and Lett it boyle up, and Scum it, if there be need, then put in your Serrip, Letting it not boyle ; Always stirring it till you think it will Cette, which you may Know by Dropping A Little upon a plate, and Lett it Stand till it be cold ; but take care you let it not be over Stif, and when you think it is Right, then take it of ye fire and put it in your Glases hott, this will serve for any other Gelles. It seems to me that the spring is less advanced here than at home. The snowdrops are plentiful and very lovely, growing, not as with us in single tufts, March. 29 but thickly together in white patches, like daisies, under the trees and on the grass. There are large bunches of them set on the table at meals ; they look wintry, but the smell of them, faint like the primrose, is very charming. The only other plant which I can discover in flower is the gorse, and that is but just breaking its bud. In the woods there is no new leafage yet. The whole landscape might be painted in three colours — brown, green, and grey. The spray of the trees is brown, the bracken on the mountains is brown, and the deep drift of leaves and beech-nuts in the hollows and under the hedges is brown ; the grass, and the ubiquitous moss, and the laurels are green ; while the tree-stems and the skies are grey. Sailing on the lake, we see that there are still streaks of snow on Helvellyn Low Man. The wind is north-west, and the sky is clouded ; but sometimes there is a bit of fleeting blue ; and now and then a momentary and unexplained gleam of sunlight lying on the broad shoulder of some distant mountain makes one think of Bunyan's Land of Beulah. The birds are plentiful. They seem to have fine covert under the thick, round bushes of laurel ; there are many finches, the green-finch being most beautiful and conspicuous. I saw several flocks of wild ducks cross the lake ; there was also the black-and-white- 30 Country Pleasures. winged gooseander, and two or three herons ; one of these lighted upon a fir-tree, and a queer object he looked, swinging about and stretching forth his long neck. I must not forget to mention a little wren, no bigger than a plum, who was standing on the top of a pollard-willow. He nodded to me as I passed, as if to say 'good morning,' and then turned into his house, which was a hole in the tree. The tourist, who is making the usual rush from Grasmere to Keswick, seldom gets more than a glimpse of the Vale of St. John ; but no valley in the district would better repay quiet and careful exami- nation. It is wide enough for a vale, yet in places it has the romantic character of a gorge, and very grandly is it walled in by the pyramidal forms of Saddleback. Sir Walter Scott calls it — The narrow valley of Saint John, Down sloping to the western sky. And his further description is not inapt : — Paled in by many a lofty hill, The narrow dale lay smooth and still, And, down its verdant bosom led, A winding brooklet found its bed. But, midmost of the vale, a mound Arose, with airy turrets crown'd, Buttress, and rampire's circling bound, And mighty keep and tower. March. 3 r We found this vale full of refreshing contrast and healing influence as we wandered along it on Sunday morning to the small church at the farther or northern end. There was a little sunshine on the hedges, and I could detect the new leaves of the wild-strawberry, the celandine, and the wood-sorrel. How perfect was the stillness — perfect because broken, but broken only by the fall of distant water, the low chirp of birds, and the sough of the wind. The church, as usual in this country, is a lowly building. You enter the yard under an arch of thick holly and box — the holly still carries its red berries — and there is a willow trained round the porch ; the graves are mostly nameless, but the snowdrop carries its white memo- rial over rich and poor alike. To-day I have been to Rydal, and looked in upon an old artist friend, who now, wisely enough, makes his home there. We found him lovingly at work on a sprig of willow, trying to realise the poet's descrip- tion of the — Satin-shining palm On sallows in the windy gleams of March. Happy painter ! his life is his work, and his work is only the religious love of nature expressed in act ! There was misty rain on the hills, but Rydal cannot be spoiled, and everything was touched with quiet 32 Country Pleasures. beauty. We walked together to the margin of the Mere, and then up to Wordsworth's old house, where, on the famous terrace, we found cowslips and daisies, mingled with snowdrop and crocus ; and, under the porch, in pots, carefully tended as a' kind of votive offering to the dead, there was the lesser celandine, his own chosen and favourite flower. IX.— SHROVETIDE. March 12. In the Third Book of Kenelm Digby's Broad Stone of Honour, there is an eloquent passage in which the writer, trying to set forth, as is his wont, the attrac- tive side of the Middle Ages, shows how the common life was then beautified by the mingling of the natural and the ecclesiastical seasons. Without accepting in full these romantic and sentimental views, one may admit the wisdom of breaking the dead monotony of modern existence by observing, especially for the sake of the young, such simple festivals as yet remain in vogue. Since I last wrote, the feast of Shrovetide has been duly honoured among us, in the old- fashioned country style, with all customary rites and ceremonies, aesthetic and culinary. The first thing is to take down the ' Christmas,' as March. 33 the decorative evergreens are always called in Lanca- shire. We never allow this to be done until Shrovetide has come in, and then the doing of it is not an operation but a ceremony. It marks a point in the history of the year, when, even if we look back with some regret on the in-door festivities of Christmas, we are also looking forward to the out-door pleasures of spring. And so there was much seasonable merriment and boisterous shouting as the ladder was carried about, and the great bunches were hauled down and taken by many willing hands to an open space in the garden. Then, when all had been heaped up, a live coal was put underneath, and the dry but yet resinous mass of holly and ivy, laurel and fir burst into such a fire that the light of it, for a few minutes, might have been seen for miles over the dark fields. It was a fine thing to watch the sharp, arrowy flames darting out from the central mass like living creatures, as if in search of something to devour. When we went in- doors again we found the house filled with the sweet scent of the burnt branches. I must not omit to mention that a bough of mistletoe was saved and laid up with the yule-log brand to be kept until next year. And then came the scene in the kitchen, where one who will not wear that symbol again, at any rate 34 Country Pleasures. for a twelvemonth, donned the cook's apron, wielded the hissing pan, and tossed the savoury cakes into the air. Herrick has a quaint little poem on the taking down of the evergreens, but he fixes the time for it as Candlemas Eve, not Shrovetide : — Down with the rosemary, and so Down with the bays and misletoe ; Down with the holly, ivy, all Wherewith ye dress'd the Christmas hall ; That so the superstitious find No one least branch there left behind ; For look, how many leaves there be Neglected there, maids, trust to me, So many goblins you shall see. Our maid carefully gathered up the scattered leaves, and so, even in the old oak-room after midnight, there were no goblins to be seen. The hall looks naked enough now the accustomed garnishing is gone ; but to-morrow we shall put up the orthodox branch of green box, and that will hold its place till Easter comes round. The weather has been quite March-like in charac- ter. We have had some rain, a little light frost at night, and much heavy wind, rising on one occasion at least into a gale. At sunset there was a momentary gleam of crimson, over which the clouds suddenly swirled and it was dark : a little while after, through another rift in the vapour, there was a vision of the March. 35 new moon with the old moon in her arms — the strange, spectral disk, with the thin bright crescent at its edge — O say na sae, my master deir, For I fear a deadlie storme. Late late yestreen I saw the new moone Wi' the auld moon in hir arme ; And I feir, I feir, my deir master, That we will com to harme. No doubt, as Coleridge has it — The bard was weather-wise, who made The grand old ballad of Sir Patrick Spence. At any rate, soon after this there was a great roar- ing in the wood, and a tossing and smiting together of branches, which continued through the night. The next morning the dead twigs of winter were strewn all over the ground. The leafage is increasing in the garden, and is now for the first time beginning to be perceptible as a cloud of green. The fruit-trees — currant, gooseberry, cherry, and pear-tree — are most forward. The labur- num shows its white leaf-bud, and the lilac its dark green. The flowering currant is in bloom. In the greenhouse the camellias, which have been making a great show with their scarlet and white, rose-red and blush-pink, are now nearly over. By the way a friend gives me intelligence from Cornwall which D 2 36 Country Pleasures. makes our latitude seem cold and bare indeed. There, he tells me, the camellias are flowering in the open air, the primroses are by thousands in the hedge- banks, and men lie on their backs in the sun. The birds are hard at work on the lawn in a morning. They seem to get an ample breakfast with marvellous rapidity. To-day I counted fourteen starlings in a flock, 'feeding like one' — the sun shin- ing on their metallic-looking plumage as they struck their long, yellow bills into the ground. A little apart from the crowd were three or four throstles, less bold, and feeding more daintily. The starlings, I think, have begun to build. We see them carrying sticks and straws under the eaves of the barn. The plumage of this bird, though subdued, is very beautiful if carefully examined. The feathers are blue, green, black, and a lightish purple, and some of them are curiously tipped with buff. As the bird moves in the sun these colours mingle, and produce that steely appearance to which I have already alluded. X.- DAFFODILS. March 20. In the early part of the past week there have been some nights of keen frost ; the thermometer marked March. 37 a minimum of five degrees below freezing, and we had fields and roof-tiles whitened in the morning; but later the weather has grown more genial. There has been but little rain, and in the middle of the day we have even seen clouds of dust — that dust which, as the old saying has it, is, in March, worth a king's ransom. The soil is what the gardener calls ' mellow,' turning over without sticking to the spade: and in the kitchen-plots we are beginning to put in plants and seeds. Can anything be more delightful than these spring mornings are ? Even the shadows lie softly and tenderly along the ground, which is yet moist with newly melted rime ; the doves flutter down from the cote, and their wings glance in the sun as they fly low about one's head ; and then, there is the flicker all round you of bright, new buds coming from their sheaths in a virgin purity untouched as yet by smoke or grime. But best of all there are now the daffodils — a glorious sight ! We have them by hundreds in our little wood and in the old perennial flower-garden. They look best under the trees, growing without order or arrangement. To my thinking they are perfect both in form and colour. The form is classic and might be put into a Greek picture without modi- fication ; and the colour— well, no wonder that some 38 Country Pleasures. of our artists are enraptured with it ! Only look how the rich, deep green of the foliage passes through a tinge of the same colour on the outer petals into the two harmonious yellows which make the inner part of the flower. Some of them are still in bud, but both wind and sun are acting upon them, and not a few have shaken out their corollas to the breeze. The daffodil is eminently a flower of the wind. When you see it rudely tossed about you are not pained but gladdened. This must have been just the feeling which Wordsworth had when he wrote, in 1804, that nameless poem which is among his best — I wandered lonely as a cloud That floats on high o'er vales and hills, When all at once I saw a crowd, A host of golden daffodils ; Beside the lake, beneath the trees, Fluttering and dancing in the breeze. Continuous as the stars that shine And twinkle o'er the Milky Way, They stretched in never-ending line Along the margin of a bay : Ten thousand saw I at a glance, Tossing their heads in sprightly dance. The waves beside them danced; but they Outdid the sparkling waves in glee : A poet could not but be gay, In such a jocund company : I gazed— and gazed— but little thought What wealth the show to me had brought. March. 39 For oft, when on my couch I lie, In vacant or in pensive mood, They flash upon that inward eye Which is the bliss of solitude ; And then my heart with pleasure fills, And dances with the daffodils. It was by the shore of Ullswater, in the woods below Gowbarrow Park, that Wordsworth saw the crowd of daffodils which suggested this poem. How much he owed to his gifted sister Dora one may judge after reading her description of the same sight, as given in her prose diary : — ' I never saw daffodils so beautiful. They grew among the mossy stones about them : some rested their heads on these stones as on a pillow : the rest tossed, and reeled, and danced, and seemed as if they verily laughed with the wind, they looked so gay and glancing.' It is interesting to observe that while Wordsworth was indebted for the body of this poem to his sister, he also owed the crown of it to his wife. He himself said : — 'The two best lines in it are by M. W. The daffodils grew, and still grow, on the margin of Ulls- water, and probably may be seen to this day as beautiful in the month of March, nodding their golden heads beside the dancing and foaming waves.' 4<3 Country Pleasures. The ' M. W.' was Mary Wordsworth, his wife, and the two lines are those which everyone feels to be the most pregnant and the most precious to us as a pos- session in literature : — , They flash upon that inward eye Which is the bliss of solitude. The older poets were fond of the daffodil. Michael Drayton uses it as a simile for a shepherd's maid. In one of his poems he says :— ' Gorbo, as thou cam'st this way, By yonder little hill, Or, as thou through the fields didst stray, Saw'st thou my Daffadil ? ' She's in a. frock of Lincoln green, Which colour likes her sight, And never hath her beauty seen But through a vail of white.' ' Through yonder vale as I did pass, Descending from the hill, I met a smerking bonny lass, They call her Daffadil ; ' Whose presence, as along she went, The pretty flowers did greet, As though their heads they downward bent With homage to her feet. ' And all the shepherds that were nigh From top of every hill, Unto the vallies loud did cry, There goes sweet Daffadil ! ' Theusuallyjocund Herrick catches the melancholy March. 41 rather than the joyous side of the daffodil, and moral- ises upon it with a sweet severity : — Fair Daffadils, we weep to see You haste away so soon ; As yet the early-rising sun Has not attained his noon. Stay, stay, Until the hasting day Has run But to the even-song ; And having prayed together, we Will go with you along. Shakspere's IVrarch flowers are the daffodil and the violet. Autolycus, in the Winter's Tale, sings : — When daffodils begin to peer, With heigh I the doxy over the dale, Why, then comes in the sweet o' the year ; For the red blood reigns in the winter's pale. And Perdita in the same play says : — Daffodils, That come before the swallow dares, and take The winds of March with beauty ; violets dim, But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes Or Cytherea's breath. This last passage is probably the most perfectly felicitous piece of expression in the language, and our best example of discreet and faultless art, co- existing with the flowing opulence of an apparently spontaneous evolution. Much of the exquisite har- 4 Z Country Pleasures. mony of the lines will be found to depend on the way in which alliteration, not too conspicuous, is carried from line to line, and on the fact that, per- haps with one exception, there are not in any one line two accented feet carrying the same vowel-sound. We have no violets yet to match with our daffodils here ; but a friend sent me the other day a packet of them from Hereford. They had been gathered in the lanes, and are, I think, viola odorata — Shakspere's violet. The corolla is white, but there is a dash of yellow on the nectary, and the calyx is pale blue. I put them into a shallow vessel of water and they revived, and have given us in the room for days the scent of ' Cytherea's breath.' It is pleasant to see flowers so plentiful in the town now. In the market-place there are bunches of lilac and baskets of wallflowers for sale ; children cry primroses and violets in the street, the country carts come in with wreaths of daffodils about the horses' heads ; and, to-day, I met in the heart of the city a stately girl — she might have been Herrick's Julia — carrying, somewhat proudly, a great bunch of daffo- dils in front of her. If Burne Jones or Gabriel Rossetti or Frederick Shields had seen the thing they would have made a picture of it and called it ' The Lady of the Daffodils.' March. 43 XI. -SPRING-TIME ON THE COAST. March 27. After a mild morning on the twenty-first the frost set in again with great severity at night and lasted for some days. The fickleness of our English spring is proverbial :— As yet the trembling year is unconfirmed, And Winter oft at eve resumes the breeze, Chills the pale morn, and bids his driving sleets Deform the day delightless. More than once we have had snow. On the twenty- second a few ' fortuitous atoms ' came wavering down in the early morning : we wondered if it could be snow ; then followed the large woolly flakes, and after that a whirling drift. The birds seemed quite startled. In half-an-hour the landscape was transformed — we were in mid-winter : in an hour it was all gone again, with the exception of a few flakes which looked like white blossom on the green of a budding elder. On the twenty-fourth there was a heavier fall. The snow was piled up on the window-sills ; there were icicles a foot long ; and all day there was a strip of snow plastered on the north-west sides of the trees. The cold has brought the robin to the window again and my gentleman-sparrow sits on the thorn waiting for his crumbs. The throstles seek their food not on the 44 Country Pleasures. lawn but on the softer ground under the rhododen- drons. In the orchard-house the peaches are showing their delicate pink blossom. In the greenhouse the hyacinths are over, but their place has been taken by the barbaric colour of the tulips, — • Deep tulips dash'd with fiery dew. I had opportunity last week of comparing notes of the country life here with that in a Lancashire sea- side village in the parish of North Meols. Although vegetation was not much further advanced, the air was, of course, milder than in this neighbourhood, and the sky wore that soft and humid blue which is the prime characteristic of spring. In an old Rectory garden, neglected and weedy, but beautiful in its negligence, I found the daffodils in full bloom, shaking their golden heads over an embroidery of crocus and primrose, or flaming like torches down some dark and grass-grown alley. Overhead the rooks were at work patching and mending their old nests. Some were slowly making wing with material from adjoining fields, some were sitting in the half-formed nests, looking uncomfortably large for their habitations, and others were perched on the swinging branches, ap- parently watching or superintending the progress of repairs. It is curious to find how few people there March. 45 are who dislike the noise of a rookery. It is a proof of the power of association. The sound is harsh and dissonant enough, but it calls up so many pleasant pictures before the mind that it becomes quite a solace to listen to it. In the fields the ploughman was busy turning over the furrows, and all round there was the ceaseless music of the lark. I was listening for hours, but the ' rain of melody ' had no pause, for as one tiny singer grew weary of pouring out his ' full heart ' another, and sometimes two or three together, ascended into the blue and took his place. A short field-walk brought me to what once was, and, indeed, in great part, still is, one of the quaintest hamlets in England. The place is full of artistic quality, and it was no surprise to be told that both George Mason and Frederick Walker had found characteristic subjects there. Everything is pic- turesque, and is, it must be added, in a condition of unsanitary confusion. The cottages are mostly white, one-storied, lower at one end than at the other, and thickly thatched. Sometimes the straw roof curves round a little window like a lowering eyebrow, and here and there it is diversified with patches of brilliant moss. A narrow stream runs through the village and is crossed by small foot-bridges. It is not over clear, 46 Country Pleasures. but the cows stand in it to drink, and the ducks paddle about and dive for worms. In the farm-yards were some odd-looking and curiously leaning stacks of bean-straw. It was pleasant to hang over the fences and look into the cottage-gardens — gardens of the old sort — -a little bush of silver-edged holly, a crooked willow in a corner with one primrose at its root, a tuft of polyanthus, a few crimson daisies, a bed of sage and thyme, and a bit of fresh, green parsley. Knowing that some friends were in the neighbour- hood, I inquired for them from a girl who was leaning against a cottage porch. Had she seen anyone paint- ing ? Yes ; and I should hear of them at the inn. At the inn I discovered one of my friends working from the figure. His picture might be called ' The Toilers of the Sea,' — a group of fisher-folk coming up sadly from the shore, bending under their burdens, the back-ground a wild and gleaming evening sky. The other was down in the meadows, south of the village. I found him painting a green bank and a willow- hedge behind the figure of a woman — a cockle- gatherer ; — Blowzed with health, and wind, and rain, And labour ; — a piece of genuine life, real and true both in colour March. 47 and form, and yet touched with poetic feeling. In these warm meadows we wandered until nightfall. We looked at the old Meols Hall, now a farm-house, where, in the days of Queen Mary, lived a certain Dame Mary Hesketh, who in later times was cast into prison for making converts to the ' papist faythe ' ; we noted the lovely colour of the budding willows — which are everywhere about, bending back from the sea in groves and in hedgerows — a soft, light brown, with a touch of pink in it, harmonising perfectly with the spring sky ; we found our first daisies in the grass, and the little shepherd's-purse on the banks ; and then, turning westward, we could see the undulating dunes of sand, a strip of the blue estuary, and a fleet of boats laid up for the weekly rest from labour. The costumes of the locality are still fine — quite Breton in character. The men have not learned the hateful prison-fashion of cropping their heads ; they have their hair long and wear bright blue jerseys. The women are stalwart, solid, ' dour ' persons ; they still keep to the short petticoat, and have lilac hoods, with stiff, outstanding frills; and both their hands and their faces tell of a hard life by land and on the sea. 48 Country Pleasures. APRIL. Proud-pied April dress'd in all his trim Hath put a spirit of youth in every thing, That heavy Saturn laugh'd and leap'd with him. Shakspere, Sonnets, xcviii. Oh, to be in England Now that April's there, And whoever wakes in England Sees, some morning, unaware, That the lowest boughs and the brush-wood sheaf Round the elm-tree bole are in tiny leaf, While the chaffinch sings on the orchard bough In England — now ! Robert Browning, Home Thoughts from Abroad. XII.— MID-LENT AND ALL-FOOLS'. April 3. ' Comes in like a lion, and goes out like a lamb,' is the old saw about the month of March. Whatever rude and leonine blasts he might have indulged in during his early days, certainly his going out had nothing in it of a lamb-like character. I do not remem- ber a pleasanter or a more seasonable March than this April. 49 has been ; but the last day of it was one of the vilest of the year — a bitter, biting, inclement, and dreary day. Every half hour there was a wild drift of sleet, and the frost was just severe enough to put that thin coat- ing of ice on pond and pool which gives you a sense of uncomfortable starving such as you don't get even in a much lower temperature. Cheerless, however, as the day was out of doors, we made the night cheerful enough within. We had a roaring coal fire and sat round it, remembering that it was the festival of Mid- Lent. Our ancestors certainly deserve much credit for their ingenuity in devising of festivals. Shakspere's ' merry Shrovetide ' is hardly out of sight before we find ourselves baiting, as it were, by the way at a little intermedial feast — a feast in the middle of a fast. Of course we partook of that mysterious cake — simanellus, simnel, or simblin — the last is our ordinary Lancashire pronunciation — whose history and the ety- mology of whose name are both vague enough to form the subject of constant warfare among our antiquarian pundits. Also, we compounded and passed round as a loving-cup the proper beverage for the day, the ancient braggat — bragawd of the Welsh — ancient as Chaucer — Hir mouth was sweete as bragat is or meth, Or hoord of apples, layd in hay or heth ; — E 50 Country Pleasures. more ancient still, for is it not found some eight cen- turies earlier in Taliesin and Aneurin ? I do not profess to have any great skill in these matters, but I think our braggat was fairly mixed, and a right pleasant drink. The curious may care to know that it consists of new-laid eggs well beaten, sugar or honey, hot ale, and a dash of nutmeg or other spice. I suppose it must be something like that 'egg-hot,' of which dear old Lamb was so fond, and to which he makes such frequent allusion. Writ- ing to Coleridge, he says : ' I have been drinking egg- hot and smoking Oronooko, associated circumstances which ever forcibly recall to my mind our evenings and nights at the Salutation.' This festival, besides being known as Simnel Sunday, Mid-Lent Sunday, and Braggat Sunday, is also called by the singular name of Mothering Sun- day. The designation had probably a purely eccle- siastical origin ; but in later times it fitted itself to a pleasant social observance, and in country places the day is still known as a time when children revisit their parents, taking with them as a gift a simnel or other confection. Herrick, in one of his many poems addressed to Dianeme, alludes to this custom : — April. 51 I'le to thee a simnell bring, 'Gainst thou go'st a mothering ; So that when she blesseth thee, Half that blessing thou'lt give me. During the latter half of last month there was frost nearly every night, the thermometer being often down to twenty-five degrees ; but as a compen- sation, we had bracing air and much noble sky- scenery : — the half moon riding through those undu- lating fields of white and grey cloud which make the most capacious-looking heaven we ever see ; or the sun, setting large and bright in. a translucent west — pale green and of infinite depth and barred only by a few streaks of violet cloud — or overhung sometimes by threatening masses of vapour which are best de- scribed in the old Bible-phrase as like ' garments rolled in blood.' The changes of temperature have been very great, and show what we have to prepare ourselves for during what we are pleased to call spring weather. In the afternoon of one day the thermometer rose to 51 in the sun ; while it had been down in the pre- vious night to nineteen degrees. It is wonderful how well the birds stand the cold. Going out on starry nights before the moon had risen, and walking with- out noise under a high bank, I have seen them sit- ting in the bare hedge against the sky by five or six E 2 52 Country Pleasures. together ; and, even when the snow has been on the trees, they have seemed merry enough, fluttering over the old nests and scattering the flakes about with their wings. The starlings, however, during the severest weather, relinquished their nest-building, and were seen going about in flocks again. It is interesting also to note how little the vegeta- tion is injured — it is, of course, retarded — by the cold. I have seen the tenderest half-uncurled leaf-buds filled night after night with snow or congealed moisture, and yet they show no blackening or sign of decay. The worst thing the frost did for us was to lay down the daffodils : but part of them rose again, and many are still only in bud ; and, some bright morning, ere long, there will be a new and glorious display. The only perceptible fruit-blossom out of doors is that of the pear-trees. It is formed but not opened or coloured, and it has been quite stationary now for more than a fortnight. In the garden the common elm is in flower, the bright yellow leaf-buds of the horse-chestnut are conspicuous when the sun is on the trees, and in the vinery the dry-looking canes are breaking all over into fresh green. Monday, the first of April, was signalised by a pretty smart fall of snow in the early morning. When one considers what the poets have written about April. 53 ' ethereal mildness ' and the like, this seems to be a not inappropriate occurrence for the day. As I have already quoted from Charles Lamb, I may as well conclude with another extract from his delightful pages — an extract which I take the liberty of apply- ing to my own uses : — ' The compliments of the season to my worthy masters, and a merry first of April to us all ! ... Take my word for this, reader, and say a fool told it you, if you please, that he who hath not a dram of folly in his mixture, hath pounds of much worse matter in his composition. . . . And what are commonly the world's received fools, but such whereof the world is not worthy? And what have been some of the kindliest patterns of our species but so many darlings of absurdity, minions of the goddess, and her white boys ? Reader, if you wrest my words beyond their fair construction, it is you, and not I, that are the April Fool.' XIII.— THE LESSER CELANDINE. April 10. The flower of the week is the bright little celan- dine, the beautiful but plebeian blossom of the fields and hedges. Crossing a meadow near the house you 54 Country Pleasures. come to a runnel of water between two grassy banks, and there, under a thorn, gleaming in the sun, is Wordsworth's flower. Pansies, lilies, kingcups, daisies, Let them live upon their praises ; Long as there's a sun that sets, Primroses will have their glory ; Long as there are violets, They will have a place in story : There's a flower that shall be mine, 'Tis the little Celandine. Ere a leaf is on a bush, In the time before the thrush Has a thought about her nest, Thou wilt come with half a call, Spreading out thy glossy breast Like a careless Prodigal ; Telling tales about the sun, When we've little warmth, or none. Wordsworth, in his annotation of the poem, the two finest verses of which I have given above, says :— ' It is remarkable that this flower, coming out so early in the spring as it does, and so bright and beautiful, and in such profusion, should not have been noticed earlier in English verse. What adds much to the interest that attends it, is its habit of shutting itself up and opening out according to the degree of light and temperature of the air.' I suppose Wordsworth is right in his inference April. 55 that the flower had not been mentioned by any poet before himself; nor, indeed, has it been much alluded to in later verse. Its colour is against it. To the careless observer it would be - ' merely a buttercup,' but the loving student of nature despises nothing, overlooks nothing, and to him nothing is ' common or unclean ' ; he dare not doubt, and his reward is to find beauty lurking in the humblest forms. You must bend low over the celandine before you can see its loveliness, then you discern how brilliant is its burnished yellow, and how symmetrical are its ray- like petals and its heart-shaped leaves. We had an amusing instance the other day of its habit of shutting itself up quickly. One of my boys came running to tell me, with some pride, that he had found the first celandine in our little dell. I went with him to look at his prize. He had marked the exact spot and was sure he had left it there : but to his great mystifi- cation the flower was gone from sight. The day had worn a little towards evening and the petals had suddenly folded themselves tightly up. I found it for him snugly tucked away among the leaves. The sensi- tiveness of the plant is shown not only by its opening and shutting the corolla according to the temperature, but also by a change of colour. It may often be found with the yellow petals blanched white by a cold wind. 56 Country Pleasures. The celandine is later in our neighbourhood this year than usual. I have often known it to be the very first of the wild flowers. Wordsworth, though he wrote his poem on the last day of April, speaks of it as a February blossom : — February last, my heart First at sight of thee was glad. No rain, little or no frost, and the wind veering from north to south, through east— this would fairly describe the present prevailing weather. How subtle is the change in the character of the wind with each minute difference in the point of the compass! — maleficent, of course, when due east, and a horror to the highly-strung nerve ; becoming invigorating with the slightest turn to the north ; and genial with a corresponding inclination to the south. Old Tusser, in his Five Hundred Points, thus tells off on his metrical fingers, as it were, the varying qualities of the winds : — North winds send haile, South winds bring raine, East winds we bewail, West winds blow amaine : North-east is too cold, South-east not too warme, North-west is too bold, South-west doth no harme. In the greenhouse the mignonette, which has been kept through the winter, is beginning to flower. One or two plants are sufficient to fill the whole place with April. 57 a slight but delicious odour — an odour which does not destroy but mingles with the scent of other blossoms. In the open air the leafage of the apple- tree is making itself conspicuous, and the throstles are building in good earnest. I wish this bird were as cunning as the starling, or that I could teach it prudence. Here is the starling creeping through a small hole in the tiles to his snug nest. He is out of the reach of boys and safe even from the marauding cat. His sense of security makes him impudent ; he stands and looks at you with his head cocked up, and goes in and out of his house with an unnecessary frequency, as if he would say : ' This is where I live, and I don't care if you know it. You can't follow me — a starling's nest is his castle.' But the poor foolish throstle, in spite of what, in our ornamental way, we call unerring instinct, will persist in putting his nest, year after year, where those who seek can both see and reach. On the fifth I observed a throstle gather- ing dry grass under a pear-tree ; it pulled and tugged until it had got so large a bunch in its mouth that it looked absurd and could hardly fly away. The next day I found its nest completed, in a low bush of broad-leaved holly. This bird has a taste for letters, for among the grass and slender twigs there was inwoven a considerable piece of a London paper. 58 Country Pleasures. Although the outside was rough, the interior was neatly and smoothly plastered with clay, which, when I saw it, was yet moist from the bill of the artificer. On the same day I found another similar nest just finished. The roof of our garden winter-house projects and is supported on rough-hewn posts, which are covered with ivy ; against one of these posts the nest is built. It is dexterously worked into the hanging stems of ivy ; but it is so low that I can look into it as I pass, and so much exposed that I have tied the tendrils of the ivy more closely round it, both for protection and concealment. It has been plastered with mud, and it is also lined — as a piece of luxury, I suppose — with the soft fibres of some decayed wood. Yesterday I found that the first little blue egg had been dropped into the nest which the prescient bird — prescient in preparation if not in selection of place — had finished three days before. And here, too, was beauty, the little-regarded beauty of the bird's egg — beauty of form and of colour, perfect elementary form and delicately simple colour — lavished upon a corner where no eye might ever have seen it — where, probably, by no other eye than my own will it ever be seen. April. 59 XIV.— THE DAISY. April 17. Our native flora here is not so abounding in variety as to permit of our disregarding the advent of the simplest flower. I pass, therefore, this week from the common celandine to the still commoner bellis perennis — even its scientific name is a sweet one — the daisy, the flower of the children and of all the poets. Of course we have this flower in every season ; like the poor, it is always with us. I have seldom failed to find one, even at Christmas, on a bank under a privet hedge facing the south-west. In such a situation I have seen the hardy little blossom living on and on, through frost and snow, on dark days and on bright, opening timidly at noon, and closing up tightly at three or four o'clock, when the early night was approaching. Under these conditions a single flower is tenderly dwelt upon ; it becomes a friend ; and an almost sentient recognition seems to pass between you. But now the 'dog-daisy,' as we call it, is begin- ning to show itself in multitudes. During the present week, for the first time, it has forced itself upon our notice as a salient feature in the earth's 6o Country Pleasures. floral decoration. By the little water runnel in the meadow we find it mingling with the celandines ; in the dell at the bottom of the garden it is- side by side with another yellow and somewhat despised, but brilliant flower, the now leafless coltsfoot ; along the walks it is seen creeping up between the gravel and the grass border ; and on the lawns it is beginning, as usual, to spread itself in patches. The daisy is always in greater numbers than you think. In one small plot I have just counted more than a hundred : if I had been asked to guess I should have said there were twenty. It is now the first thing which I see in the morning. A few days ago I thought the bright little specks, as yet unopened, were only great drops of dew. In fact, the flower, while yet moist, glitters like a pearl in the first beams of the sun. It is no wonder that the children should love the daisy. Its lowliness of situation, its simplicity of shape and of colour, its prodigal profusion, will all commend the flower to them. Is the reader happy enough to remember the time when, as a child, his eyes first fell upon a field of daisies ; can he recall the delight which welled up within him when he first found that they were his to enjoy with impunity, even to gather without reproach ? Chaucer, who was the sworn knight and impassioned April. 6 1 lover of the daisy, makes its place in the year a little later than now. With him it is always the flower of May — May and the daisy are joint symbols of spring. It has been said that Chaucer's many words about the daisy were merely conventional. I do not think there is any proof of that. His love of the flower was both singular and sincere. Shrewd man of the world as he was, courtier and scholar as he was, the heart of the. child — the poet's sign, was always present with him. From what we know of him he was just the man to feel about the daisy exactly what he has told us. At the same time there is, of course, occasionally a strain of hyperbole in his language which can only be explained on the supposition that he was speaking of some exalted lady under the figure of his favourite flower. Like a student, he would leave his bed, or the amusements of his time, for the company of his books; like a poet he would leave his books for the companionship of nature. In the prologue to the Legende of Goode Women, he tells us that when the month of May is come, and he hears the song of birds, and sees the flowers begin to spring, then — Farwel my boke, and my devocion ! Now have I thanne such a condicion, That of al the floures in the mede, Thanne love I most these floures white and rede, Such as men callen daysyes in our toune. 62 Country Pleasures. To them, he says, he has so great an affection that in this month of May the day never dawns upon his bed that he is not up and walking in the meadow to see this flower spreading itself against the sun ; its rising is such a blissful sight that it dispels all his sorrow ; he offers to it his greatest reverence, and his love is so hot that when evening comes he runs forth to see how it will go to rest ; and, he adds — Alias, that I ne had Englyssh, ryme, or prose, Suffisant this flour to preyse aright I And doune on knees anoon ryght I me sette, And as I koude, this fressh flour I grette, Knelyng alway, til it unclosed was, Upon the smale, softe, swote gras. Chaucer, as I have said, connects the daisy with the month of May : Shakspere makes it an April flower. In Lucrece there, is this exquisite image : — Without the bed her other fair hand was, On the green coverlet ; whose perfect white Show'd like an April daisy on the grass. And in the song which concludes the play of Love's Labour's Lost, the white and red of the flower is alluded to : — Daisies pied and violets blue And lady-smocks all silver-white. In L' Allegro Milton uses Shakspere's phrase: — April. 63 Meadows trim, with daisies pied ; Shallow brooks and rivers wide ; and in Comus he speaks of the daisies, not the meadows, being ' trim ' — The wood nymphs, decked with daisies trim. This last expression is quite accurate, for the flower is neat and trim even to demureness, especially if we take it in bud, when the little yellow centre is sur- rounded by a circlet of crimson, and that again by a ring of white, each being pressed closely upon the other. The anthology of the daisy would be very incom- plete without Herrick's felicitous contribution. His little poem is based upon what I have already alluded to — the daisy's habit of folding itself up early for the night : — Shut not so soon ; the dull-ey'd night Has not as yet begunne To make a seisure on the light, Or to seale up the sun. No marigolds yet closed are, No shadowes great appeare ; Nor doth the early shepheard's starre Shine like a spangle here. Stay but till my Julia close Her life-begetting eye ; And let the whole world then dispose It selfe to live or dye. 64 Country Pleasures. There is one line of Burns, which has made im- mortal that mountain daisy which he turned down with his plough in April 1786. It is the first and the best line in his poem : — Wee, modest, crimson-tipped flower. I must not omit Shelley's accurate and beautiful de- scription of the flower : — Daisies, those pearled Arcturi of the earth, The constellated flower that never sets. • Wordsworth, who desired to bring back to the flower its ' long-lost praise ' — the praise which, he says, it had in Chaucer's time — wrote many poems on the daisy. With him it was the ' cheerful flower,' the ' poet's darling,' the ' child of the year,' and ' nature's favourite ' ; but the lines of his on this subject which will be longest remembered are these : — Sweet silent creature ! That breath'st with me in sun and air, Do thou, as thou art wont, repair My heart with gladness, and a. share Of thy meek nature ! During the last few days we have had perfect April weather — a warm temperature, with sun, wind, and rain alternate and commingled. The throstle's nest in the ivy has now three eggs in it ; and the hen is sitting closely. The first egg, as I mentioned last April, 65 week, was laid on the ninth, the other two were laid each morning of the two following days, and then the incubation began. The pear-blossom on the southerly wall of the house is now white and fully opened ; but that which is in the orchard is still only half unfolded, and is tipped with red. Twice in the year the thorns are supremely beautiful ; once when the vivid green is all outspread, and yet has not lost its freshness ; and again when the green is hidden by the profuse and snowy flower. The first of these stages has now been reached, and on some trees the blossom is just begin- ning to form itself. XV.— ON THE MOORLAND. April 24. When the wind is easterly here, we have always one compensation — we can see the hills. Under ordinary conditions the last thing we should expect to discover would be a blue line of upland on the horizon ; but if the wind is with the sun-rising, and if it should also happen to be a day on which the ejection of smoke is less than usual, then a stranger would be startled by the nearness and distinctness of the hill-country. The range runs from east to south- east. It begins in Yorkshire with a craggy peak overlooking the vale of Saddleworth, it just touches 66 Country Pleasures. Lancashire, crosses a narrow tongue of Cheshire, and finishes in Derbyshire with the great buttress of Kinder Scout. To many people in the South of England it is a subject of wonder why we in the North should make so little use of this grand recrea- tion ground. We often run much further afield and fare considerably worse. If Wordsworth or Scott had written about it as they have done about their own neighbourhoods, what a change we should have seen ! Standing in my own garden I can always feel the breath of the hills — cold, perhaps, and often touched by the smoke of intervening towns, but never other than refreshing — and a walk of six or seven miles across country will take me at any time into their wildest and most unfrequented solitudes. By the railways, too, the edge of any part of the region may be reached in less than an hour. This rapidity of access is not unimportant, for the more quickly we can change our habitual surrounding the more bene- ficial is the effect on the mind. As often as we have opportunity, therefore, we escape to the hills. It was not an encouraging morning when, a day or two ago, we started for Hayfield, with intention to cross into Edale, the most secluded of the Derbyshire valleys. The rain fell persistently ; but still we had hopes of April. 67 a change, for each now and then a stray sunbeam seemed to wander down among the moisture ; and so we were allured onward to the heights. As we climbed slowly up we were not without the sights and sounds of spring. In the lower meadows the new-fallen lambs were gambolling round the ewes : higher up the lark soared and sang heedless of the rain. Then we came out upon the broad moorland. The lark was heard no longer, and not the faintest sound rose up from the distant valleys. One voice only could we hear, and that the most characteristic of the moorland — the shrill and plaintive cry of the startled birds as they flew from us across the heather. Although there were of course none of those fiery tints which make the peculiar splendour of autumn, there was not wanting, even under that clouded sky, a certain wild beauty of colour — the brown and dark green of the whinberry, and many curious strips of bright emerald where the moss grew over the marshy land. There is no loneliness like that of the high moor. On the peak of the loftiest mountain you generally see some indication of human neighbour- hood or habitation ; but having once climbed to the table-land of the moor, you are in an isolation of solitude which can only be compared with that of mid- ocean. For the literature of the moorland — moorland F 2 68 Country Pleasures. such as this— one must turn to the Brontes. Here is a passage — one out of many in Jane Eyre — which shows how completely ' Currer Bell ' had caught the spirit of such scenery : — ' I saw the fascination of the locality. I felt the consecration of its loneliness ; my eye feasted on the outline of swell and sweep — on the wild colouring communicated to ridge and dell, by moss, by heath-bell, by flower-sprinkled turf, by brilliant bracken, and mellow granite crag. These details were just to me what they were to them — so many pure and sweet sources of pleasure.' The rain now began to fall more heavily, and we found also that we had somewhat missed our way, the lofty crags of Kinder — they rise to nearly two thousand feet — being too far to the north of us. Making out the point in the ridge, some two miles away, from which the descent into Edale must begin, we struck boldly across the open moor ; but the rain got worse and worse, a cold wind began to rise, the ground was getting plashy under foot, and, most ominous of all, a few slow clouds were seen creeping up from the hidden valleys and meeting those which were lowering in the sky. We knew what that meant ; and turning back at once, began to make our way in a south-westerly direction towards the valley in which lies the little town of Chapel-en -le-Frith. It was well April. 69 that we took this course, for soon after the whole moor- land was lost in swirling mist and cloud. If we had found our way into Edale at all — and the chances were much against it — we should have got a right hos- pitable reception at the clean little hostel, the Nag's Head, as we know from experience ; but we should have been too late to leave the dale, and must have spent the night there. Descending by a steep and miry path we came to the little fold or hamlet of Shire-oaks, where we made sure of our way, and took our last look at the wild and threatening moorland. And now, though the rain was still heavy, we came upon a scene of great beauty. Crossing a steep and wonderfully green meadow where the lady's- mantle was showing its broad leaves, we found our- selves in one of the prettiest of Derbyshire lanes — and in this matter Derbyshire comes next, I think, to Devonshire. Here the bramble and the wild rose were making a brave show of leaves ; and, of flowers, there was the primrose in great tufts ; the common blue violet ; the little strawberry blossom, — Look at it — the flower is small, Small and low, though fair as any, — the celandine in numbers large enough to produce bright patches of yellow, and last, the wood-sorrel, most fragile and delicate of all our wild-flowers — a 70 Country Pleasures. white, fairy chalice, faintly veined with lilac and set in the midst of its triple leafage of brilliant green. We were wet and weary when we walked into Chapel-en-le-Frith ; but what of that, the toilsome- ness and the rain will soon pass from the memory ; but what will never be lost is that which is alone worth preserving — the wildness of the moorland and the April beauty of the lane. We begin now to feel the full glory of the spring and to say to ourselves ' surely the winter is gone.' It is always some time in April, sooner or later, that the great transformation suddenly takes place ; and usually two or three days of warm rain will do the work. In those lines on the new-year, which are per- haps the most melodious in In Memoriam, the poet makes significant mention of the joyousness of April : — Dip down upon the northern shore, O sweet new-year delaying long ; Thou doest expectant nature wrong ; Delaying long, delay no more. What stays thee from the clouded noons, Thy sweetness from its proper place ? Can trouble live with April days, Or sadness in the summer moons ? And, truly, it is no easy matter for trouble and sad- ness, though they wage a hard fight for it, to make good their footing among us in the midst of all this April. 71 new and bursting life. It is almost too rapid now for my chronicling. The chestnut has thrown back its glutinous and hairy sheath and set free its leaflets, which still, however, hang down towards the stem ; the elm and the poplar are green ; and if you stand with your back against the bole of the sycamore you will see what a thick roof of leaves it has spread over you. The pear-blossom is beginning to fall, while that of the apple and the cherry if you look carefully for it, will be found to be just expanding. The currants and gooseberries, too, are in bloom. In the greenhouse the reign of the azalea and the geranium has begun, the first roses are out, and the scent is that of musk. In my throstle's nest the first tiny chick has made its appearance : it is about as big as a walnut, and the hen has got it snugly laid between the yet unhatched eggs. It is beautiful to see the little palpitating life, with its outspread and upturned mouth, lying with the two eggs, like two blue pillows, on either side of it. To-day I observe that the beech is budding, and that its colour is that of the dead leaves which have just passed away. Its complexion now is that to which it will come at last. Like ourselves, who in our old age fall into a second childhood, so this leaf in its decay will be again what it is in its first bud. 72 Country Pleasures. MAY. O thou with dewy locks, who lookest down Through the clear windows of the morning, turn Thine angel eyes upon our western isle, Which in full choir hails thy approach, O Spring ! Come o'er the eastern hills, and let our winds Kiss thy perfumed garments ; let us taste Thy morn and evening breath ; scatter thy pearls Upon our lovesick land that mourns for thee. William Blake, To Spring. XVI.— MAY-DAY. May i. We enter to-day on the ' merrie moneth ' of our forefathers ! the bounteous and flowery month, the month of youth and of love. Shall we not, in the words of Leigh Hunt, ' persist in keeping up a certain fragrant and flowery belief on the altars of May and June ' ? It is not often that the May of actual life comes so near to that well-known ideal of the poets as it has done this year. At least we have had warmth, and that is something to console ourselves with, for in my notes of past years I see again and May. 73 again on May-day — 'frost,' 'sharp frost,' and 'killing frost.' But this last week we have had a continuance of fine warm weather. On one morning only — April twenty-sixth — there was a slight rime on the grass, and just one degree of frost marked on the minimum- thermometer. The pear-blossom has budded, bloomed, and fallen — a rare thing with us — without being once in jeopardy from extreme cold. Yesterday there was heavy rain, but it was pleasant to see it come, for we felt that leaf and blade and root were all thirsting to receive it ; and the birds, I observed, never stopped their music. It was the last of those ' schowres swoote ' with which, as Chaucer has it, April pierces the drought of March, bathing every vein in that virtuous liquor of which is engendered the flower of May. In the evening the rain ceased : but there was still much moisture in the air — it was that kind of weather during which we say, and almost with literal truth, ' things may be seen to grow.' As it was the eve or vigil of Nature's greatest festival, we gave up the time to wandering in rural idleness up and down the garden, for indeed it seemed a shame to be indoors. At first the boys would have me look at some young pigeons. Climbing a peril- ous ladder in the barn, they brought down the nest, in the bottom of which two helpless and awkward- 74 Country Pleasures. looking birds were lying huddled together. It is marvellous how rapidly the young pigeon grows. These were but eight or nine days old and yet they were as large as a throstle. Going round the pond we found a newly-built blackbird's nest in a snug corner formed by the junction of a cross-ledge with a stump in the paling. It was sheltered by a thicket of elder and contained four eggs. In the orchard the cherry- blossom was fully expanded, and very profuse, cover- ing the trees as with a sheet of white, and the apple- bloom was in that delightful stage when it shows itself as points of rose-red. In the Dutch garden there was a bed of tulips in full blaze of colour. They had been planted without arrangement, so that the scarlet white and yellow have come up promiscuously, and I never pass them without thinking of those quaint cotton gowns which were worn by our grandames in the days of the Georges. On the old English flower- bed, from which the daffodils have nearly all gone, we found the large-globed ranunculus, its yellow flowers resting on the singularly round boss of leafage ; the tall Solomon's-seal, its pendulous buds just opening ; and the delicate white and green Star-of-Bethlehem. These two last are seldom seen now except in cottage gardens ; but they are both wonderfully graceful, and if they had uncouth names and cost large sums of May. 75 money they would be great favourites in the con- servatory. Our next turn was through the wood, where we found that the primroses were just at their best : as it was by this time nearly dusk, they seemed to gleam like pale fire at the roots of the trees. On one tuft we counted between sixty and seventy flowers. Our ramble was now over, and coming round by the house, we saw that the Siberian-crab was in full bloom and that the beeches had spread out their silken and transparent leaves. These last, with the pink sheath still hanging upon them, looked as beautiful as a mass of flowers. Inside we found the younger children had been long in bed, vainly trying to fall asleep in the daylight, so as to be early awake in the morning. Although we were not up with the dawn to-day, we were in time to go a-maying, or, as Lysander says in A Midsummer Night's Dream — To do observance to a morn of May ; and though no one had given us Herrick's invitation at the chamber door, his words had not been out of mind : — Get up, sweet slug-a-bed, and see The dew bespangling herbe and tree. Each flower has wept, and bow'd toward the east, Above an houre since, yet you not drest, Nay I not so much as out of bed ; When all the birds have mattens seyd, 76 Country Pleasures. And sung their thankfull hymnes ; 'tis sin, Nay, profanation, to keep in, When as a thousand virgins on this day Spring, sooner than the lark, to fetch in May. The air out of doors was warm, though there was but little sun, and either rain in the night, or a heavy dew, had drenched the ground. Once or twice I saw the blue sky ; but it was quickly clouded again, and the feeling became that of a misty and mellow autumn morning, without its sense of decay. Under such a light the green of the trees is always peculiarly vivid. By this time I had wandered into a neighbouring clough, and looking down into one of its steep ravines I thought I had never beheld anything so fresh and brilliant as were the beeches and thorns which, a hun- dred feet below me, were mingled with the less for- ward trees. And now I could hear the voices of the jocund company I was in search of. Before long they came in sight, trooping along the narrow path, some fifty or more in number, — children of all ages, their faces flushed with running and climbing, and the hands of the little ones filled with flowers. It seemed to be a return to the days of old. My heart was with them. ' My heart,' I said — My heart is at your festival, My head hath its coronal, The fulness of your bliss I feel — I feel it all. Oh, evil day 1 if I were sullen May. 77 While Earth herself is adorning, This sweet May-morning, And the Children are culling On every side, In a thousand valleys far and wide, Fresh flowers. And the flowers were plentiful as well as fresh. We have not many May-mornings on which so large a bouquet could be made. There was the bluebell — scarcely opened, it is true, but already fragrant ; the wind-flower, its petals white within, tinged with rose- colour without ; the red campion, the star-like satin- flower, the wood-sorrel, the celandine, and Shak- spere's lady-smock, — the May-flower of the children. During the day the weather has been almost sultry, and in the afternoon the grey clouds turned to an angry yellow ; then a wind seemed to tear them open from behind, and low thunder began to growl. And so the symbols of life and death are mixed — the spring-flower and the scathing flash, beauty and terror, sorrow and delight, how swiftly they follow each other ! XVII.— THE HISTORY OF A THROSTLE'S NEST. May 8. Of such country life as we find to be still possible here, there is no part so delightful or so free from the 78 Country Pleasures. sophistication of the approaching town as that which appertains to the habits and to the music of our feathered friends and neighbours. Inside our en- closures the birds are jealously preserved and guarded. We give them all the protection we can ; and probably our place is to them not only a home, but also an asylum and a refuge. They take the food we give them unmolested and ungrudged, and we think ourselves well repaid by the pleasure of listening to their songs and of watching their artless and artful ways. This morning I found that the young throstle in the nest on the ivied post had taken its departure. It was on the sixth of April that I first observed this nest. It was then newly-plastered with wet dung or clay, and lined with a little rotten wood. On the ninth the first egg was laid ; and on the tenth and eleventh I found the second and third. The thrush often lays four or five eggs ; but in this case there were not more than three. The bird then began to sit, and I have visited her every day since. I always took food with me, and gave a low whistle when I approached her nest, so that she knew, when I was coming and was not startled. At first she flew away at the sound of my whistle ; but afterwards she began to know me, and would sit still until I was within hand's-reach of the nest. On the twenty-fourth one May. 79 egg was hatched ; and as thirteen days is, I think, the usual period of incubation, this was probably the last of the three. By the following day the young bird had grown considerably, and the yellow mouth was wide open. On the twenty-ninth a small perforation had been made in one of the remaining eggs, appa- rently by the beak of the old bird, but no more chicks have been hatched. On the second of May the little creature began to show its plumage — on the crown of the head, on the wings, and down the centre of the back. On the fourth it was almost entirely feathered, and was so large that it seemed to fill the nest. If there had been three birds instead of one, this par- ticular mother would have been in the same quandary as that old lady familiar to the nursery, who had to rear her numerous progeny in an incommodious shoe. Finally, as I have already said, the fledgling took its flight to-day, the eighth of May, or about fourteen days after the time when it was hatched. This com- pletes my domestic history of a Throstle's nest. The nests are now very numerous. This week I have come upon several. Two blackbirds have built on an old ivy-covered wall between the farm-yard and the garden. The nests are worked with great in- genuity into the stems of the ivy, and are somewhat sheltered by a row of poplars in front of them. They 8o Country Pleasures. are about eight feet from the ground, and in one of them the hen sits quite still, with her head over the edge of the nest, while I stand underneath and look at her. In a field near the pond, embedded in a tuft of dry rushes, there is a small nest which contains four tiny, dullish brown eggs ; I am not sure yet to what bird these may belong : and on a stump in an exposed situation I found, a few days since, the nest of a warbler or hedge-sparrow. Here, too, there were four eggs, but of a light blue, and the most beautiful I have seen. Those bright blue eggs together laid 1 On me the chance-discovered sight Gleam'd like a vision of delight. In the meadows just now the dandelion is making a glorious show — turning the green, in fact, into cloth of gold, such as the old knights might have jousted upon. I hope we are none of us vulgar enough to despise this flower because it is so common. It is neither fragrant in smell nor delicate in form, but it is strong and beautiful, bold and buxom — the saucy quean of the vernal bevy. My tastes are, perhaps, depraved ; but I must confess that I have even con- nived at the existence of a stray specimen of this flower in my garden, on a bit of rock-work or in some out-of-the-way corner visited only by myself. May. 8 1 It is pleasant to find that even the dandelion has its laureate, Mr. J. Russell Lowell, in some verses which I think are not much known, thus sings its praises : — Dear common flower, that grow'st beside the way, Fringing the dusty road with harmless gold I First pledge of blithesome May, Which children pluck, and, full of pride, uphold — High-hearted buccaneers, — o'erjoyed that they An Eldorado in the grass have found, Which not the rich earth's ample round May match in wealth ! — thou art more dear to me Than all the prouder summer-blooms may be. Gold such as thine ne'er drew the Spanish prow Though the primeval hush of Indian seas, Nor wrinkled the lean brow Of age, to rob the lover's heart of ease ; 'Tis the spring's largess, which she scatters now To rich and poor alike, with lavish hand, Though most hearts never understand To take it at God's value, but pass by The offered wealth with unrewarded eye. Thou art my tropics and my Italy : To look at thee unlocks a warmer clime ; The eyes thou givest me Are in the heart and heed no space or time : Not in mid June the golden-cuirassed bee Feels a more summer-like, warm ravishment In the white lily's breezy tent, His fragrant Sybaris, than I, when first < From the dark green thy yellow circles burst. The apple-blossom is now a mass of mingled white G 82 Country Pleasures. and red, with a slight background of green — and what beauty that means every one knows. It is no wonder the painters should have so often tried, and so often in vain, to catch this dainty effect. I notice that its scent is that of a faint hyacinth ; while that of the cherry blossom is much stronger, and resembles the hawthorn. The birch and the lime are now about half in leaf, but the mountain-ash is fully expanded. Among the perennial plants we note this week that, on our old English bed, the lady's-mantle is in full bloom. The last two days have been cold and wet, with a heavy wind from the north-east, which has blown off the ripe petals from the orchard-trees ; without, how- ever, doing any harm ; but the fourth and fifth were nothing less than days of perfect Midsummer — the sky cloudless, and the thermometer rising as high as ninety-six degrees. The twilights were especially beautiful. Walking out at eight o'clock, I saw the peacocks flying to their roost high up in a tall elm. They preferred to sleep in the open air. The birds were all in chorus, and, as is usual with them, increas- ing in loudness as the night came on ; the thrush, the blackbird, and the robin being most conspicuous. Just as we turned in, the thin crescent of the new May moon was seen glimmering above the still leaf- less boughs of the ash-trees in the wood. May. 83 XVIII.— THE WHITE-THORN. May 15. A branch of white-thorn in flower and a bunch of sweet-scented lilies, both gathered in the garden, made our table garniture on the twelfth — old May- day. The ancients had many festive privileges ; but they had not, as we have, two May-days in one year. On the first we went forth to 'do observance,' as I have already told, but we were not able to come back ' with white-thorn laden home.' So far, therefore, our May-morning was shorn of its proper rites ; but on the twelfth we made amends, and brought in, with no little satisfaction, the typical blossom of the month. All our old writers seem to have taken it for granted that on the first of May the thorn would be in bloom ; and, after all, when we remember that their ' first ' was our ' twelfth,' the seasons, as experience of the present year shows, have not changed so much as we sometimes imagine. Gilbert White in his Naturalist's Calendar, the re- sult of observations taken from 1768 to 1793, puts down the flowering of the hawthorn as occurring, in different years, upon dates so widely apart as the twentieth of April and the eleventh of June ; and this was in the southern county of Hampshire. The G 2 84 Country Pleasures. twelfth of May, therefore, should be considered, and especially in Lancashire, as an early date— earlier than the average. Milton seems to have been familiar with frost as coming contemporaneously with the hawthorn ; for although in the short ' Song on May Morning,' we find the passage — Bounteous May, that dost inspire Mirth, and youth, and warm desire 1 in Lycidas he says : — Killing as the canker to the rose. Or taint-worm to the weanling herds that graze, Or frost to flowers, that their gay wardrobe wear, When first the white-thorn blows. One cannot always account for associations : but I never smell the hawthorn without thinking of Chaucer. Perhaps there is something in its honest and healthy sweetness which reminds us of the old poet's character and work. If the daisy were not his chosen sign, I would have Chaucer painted with a sprig of hawthorn in his hand. In the pages of Chaucer's latest disciple, we find, as we might expect, a pleasant mention of the thorn after the manner of the master : — Now must these men be glad a little while That they had lived to see May once more smile. May. 85 And on that morn, before the fresh May dew Had dried upon the sunniest spot of grass, From bush to bush did youths and maidens pass, In raiment meet for May apparelled, Gathering the milk-white blossoms and the red. Saturday, the eleventh, was a notable day. In the morning I found that there had been during the night a heavy wind blowing from the south-east, with floods of rain. The garden paths and the lanes were strewn with new leaves, and even with twigs of beech, chestnut, and elm, which the wind had torn off the trees. In the afternoon the breeze dropped and there was a warm, brooding sky, with ' shadow streaks of rain.' In the evening it became evident that a storm was coming on again. At seven o'clock I noticed that the countless daisies on the lawn and the great dande- lion on the rockery were tightly shut up. Patches of grey mist began now to drive rapidly across the sky, although beyond these, and far away, there stood up immense masses of white cloud perfectly still in the clear blue — a revelation as it were of an untroubled heaven beyond the turbulent sphere of the earth. Then there came a near flash of lightning and an ex- plosion of thunder, which seemed to break with terrible violence under my feet. Some of the birds darted out of their nests and flew round in terror ; but two of them, a robin and a thrush, sang on unmoved 86 Country Pleasures. through it all. I could hear them filling up the pauses even while the thunder rolled. The day closed with a brilliant sunset. This kind of weather is not, as might be supposed, at all unusual in May ; indeed it is characteristic. Frederick Tennyson, in a little- known but very beautiful poem, published in 1854, describes a similar May-day storm. After speak- ing of the stillness and beauty of a noontide, in which — The clouds hung in the purple skies At anchor, like great argosies, — he goes on to tell how — Swiftly o'er the land is driven The Uragan, like smoke of War, From mountain-peak to sandy shore : The hills are dark, the earth is gray, All creatures fly the self-same way, Floods swell the thunder, and the herd And herdsman with one fear are stirr'd, The lightning fires the rick and farm, Red flames roar onward with the storm, And cries, and wails, and dismal knells Mingle, as the tumult swells, Towers crash, and granite mountains craze, And Fear beholds the end of days ! The ash is now breaking into leaf. I can just de- tect the greenness on the topmost branches, the lower ones are still bare. The oak-leaf was in the same stage about twelve days earlier. So if there be any- May. 87 thing in the old adage about the oak and the ash we ought to have dry weather. In the garden the laburnums are in full bloom. In some counties this tree is called ' golden chain.' The simile is more appropriate than the Laureate's — Dropping-wells of fire ; for the colour is much nearer that of gold than of flame. Our little dell is blue with the hyacinth, and there are two or three red campions in flower. The strawberries also are in bloom ; the bud is on the mountain-ash, the elder, the lilac and the guelder- rose ; and the fruit is set and well-formed on the gooseberry and the pear. We see before us already the promise of autumn. To-night the moon, which is already at full, is shining on the hawthorns. They are much whiter than they were on the twelfth ; and as the old fami- liar scent reaches me, the mind wanders away to other scenes and to earlier days. I bethink me of a rude hamlet by the margin of a Cheshire mere, where, in the season, the whole land seems to lie under a coverlet of white bloom. In a narrow lane, whose sandy banks rise some eight or ten feet high, there is a black-and-white timbered house, standing at the top of a steep garden, where all the old flowers are in Country Pleasures. bloom. Above the two bee-hives, which rest on a wooden bench, there is a small leaded window, and in my dream I open the casement — a boy once more — and catch for the first time in my life the cool morning air laden with that homely sweetness which is the breath of the English thorn. XIX.— BEES AND BLOSSOMS. May 22. In the present general outburst of vernal foliage we naturally forget that the evergreens, as well as the deciduous trees, are putting forth their new leaves. This is one of those lesser beauties of the spring, easily overlooked, but full of interest when once observed. The yew-tree now shows itself as a mass of leafage so dark as to be almost black, but wearing a fringe of yellowish green ; the box has six or seven bright, new leaves at the end of each spray, in sharp contrast with the sombre but polished growth of last year ; the ivy-buds are silver-grey, like the willow ; those of the holly are edged with red, and the rhododendron is a light green. In that delightfully child-like carol of Kit Marlowe, which gave such pleasure to th'e May. 89 gentle soul of dear old Izaak Walton, the Passionate Shepherd promises to his Love — A belt of straw and ivy-buds With coral clasps and amber studs. It may have been the flower-bud which is here alluded to, but I think not ; for the song breathes of spring, and the ivy flower does not come until very late in the autumn, nor is it by any means so daintily beautiful as is a wreath of the half-opened leaves. The holly is blossoming now as well as leafing. The flowers grow in a curious cluster underneath the circle of leaves, and, though inconspicuous, are pretty enough when carefully examined. The new leaves of the holly are without spines, and as they are chiefly seen at the ends of the topmost branches, it must have been to them that Southey referred as 'the high leaves upon the holly-tree ' : — All vain asperities I, day by day, Would wear away, Till the smooth temper of my age should be Like the high leaves upon the Holly-Tree. While speaking of the evergreens, I must observe what a great boon to us are the rhododendrons. All the winter through, when almost everything else is cheerless and bare, they make a belt of bright foliage round the house — foliage which, fortunately, never 90 Country Pleasures. looks better than when the pitiless rain is falling upon it ; and now for more than a month they have been spreading out for us great masses of bloom — splendid when seen in bulk, and much more beautiful in detail than is usually supposed. The white-flower- ing kinds came out first. The unopened buds of these are of a pink colour, while the full-blown flowers are pure white ; so that you often get from them the effect of a bush of white and red roses. The crimson sorts are out now, and with the saffron azaleas, also in bloom, they make a fine mass of colour in the garden, repeating the harmony, seen near them, of red hawthorn and laburnum. Among the rhododendrons you. can always find the bees. I saw the first bee here on the nineteenth of April. It was one which had strayed into the greenhouse. It seemed full-grown and was sumptu- ously attired in its raiment of black and amber fur. A week later I found one in the open air, working alternately among the rhododendrons and the currant- bushes. By the middle of this month the air was filled with their humming. On one hot afternoon I counted thirty or forty of them threading the mazes of a single apple-tree in bloom. Their persistent and hurrying industry is quite fascinating. I stood watch- ing one the other day for a quarter of an hour. It May. gi had chosen a white rhododendron, and was working the tree systematically. It pushed into every blossom, trying even the unopened buds, and in some cases making good for itself a violent entrance. How swift is the motion of its wings, as it hangs in ecstasy of expectation over the flowers ! — so swift indeed that the eye cannot catch it — you see only an apparently unmoving and nearly transparent slip of gauze. As the bee enters the flower the humming ceases, begin- ning again, after an instant of silent spoliation, with the most exact recurrence, just as the large body makes its dexterous and backward exit. After it had finished the whole bush it rose suddenly, and before I had time to escape played defiantly round and round my head, with a loud buzzing, as if to say, ' There, if I liked I could punish you for your inquisitive temerity ' ; and then, with a swimming motion, away it went up into the sky, above the tree tops, and further than my eye could follow. After it had gone a big, prosaic fly came and gleaned over the same ground. I do not know that anything finer has been written about the bee than these three stanzas, which I select from the ' Legend of the Hive,' an early poem by Stephen Hawker, the strange parson of Morwen- stow. 92 Country Pleasures. Behold those winged images, Bound for their evening bowers, They are the nation of the bees, Born from the breath of flowers : Strange people they ! a mystic race, In life, and food, and dwelling-place. They built them houses made with hands, And there alone they dwell : No man to this day understands The mystery of their cell. Your mighty sages cannot see The deep foundations of the bee. Low in the violet's breast of blue, For treasured food they sink : They know the flowers that hold the dew, For their small race to drink. They glide — King Solomon might gaze With wonder on their awful ways. The weather during the last week has been cold and stormy, with many heavy showers of rain from west by north and by south. Yesterday morning there was a dash of hail, the ' felon winds ' had been stealing both leaf and bloom from the trees, and in the night we had been within one degree of freezing ; but notwithstanding this we are saluted by delicious gusts of perfume from the hawthorns ; and more and more we find ourselves living in a green covert, which day by day, to our great satisfaction, is shutting out familiar landmarks and the sight of neighbouring houses. May. 93 XX.— STILL DAYS: THE CHRONICLE OF A HEDGE-WARBLER'S NEST. May 2g. It would be a pity if we were to conclude sunshine essential to beauty. If that were so our English landscapes, at any rate, would be in bad case. How often we find our grey, even our rainy days and nights, 'to be full of loveliness, and of that quality which we call restfulness. Nature seems to fall into repose and the mind reposes with her. Let me sketch one or two of these low-toned pic- tures. About the middle of this month I found it sufficiently mild at midnight to sit out of doors. A thick curtain of cloud was drawn over the moon ; but there was light enough to see the fruit blossom on the trees, the closed daisies on the lawn, a few wide-open stars of narcissus, and a large bed of white, perennial candytuft, the flowers of which were also unaffected by the night. The peculiarity, even the charm, of such a scene lies in its contracted character ; the horizon seems to be immediately behind our own circle of trees, and the sky itself belongs to us and is so low that it might be resting upon the tree-tops. Or, again, let us take what is called a dull after- noon. It is quiet and warm, the clouds file slowly 94 Country Pleasures. across the sky, and though always moving, they never break so much as to let through the sun ; there is neither brightness nor shadow ; but one even light suffused over the whole landscape, not strong enough to strike the eye, as harsh noises do the ear, and yet sufficient to show all those gradations of green which are the prime beauty of spring. Now and then there are a few drops of rain visible on the smooth water of the pond, but they are not heavy enough to wet the ground. The birds are mostly at rest — only an occasional twitter tells how silent we are — and there is scarcely any motion except that of the long out- stretching branches of the trees which sway up and down with a regularity that becomes almost mesmeric. Nor should the beauty of a rainy evening be over- looked. Why should we dread the rain so much ? In the spring or summer, and in the country, nothing is more delightful. I once knew a hard-working city parson, whose dream was that some day he would get back to the rural neighbourhood where he was born, and then that his great pleasure would be — what think you ? — to so clothe himself that whenever the rain was falling he might walk about with impunity. A pleasant fancy to nurse in the hard streets ; but, alas, his emancipation came only when it was too late to be enjoyed ! Certainly one of the finer aspects of nature May. 95 is lost to us until we have learnt the secret charm of a shower among green leaves. How thick the foliage looks in the fading light, and how brilliant the long grass — never longer than this year — under the trees in the orchard ! There is nothing moving except a stray frog which leaps heavily across the path, out of one bed into another ; and no sound but that of the rain, until, a little before nine o'clock, a throstle breaks out into an almost delirious song before settling down for the night. Last week there seemed to be a general departure of young birds. As I went round, I found one nest after another deserted. The little younglings were fledged and had flown — to use an old Lancashire word, appropriate enough to them, they had 'flitted.' In the finest of all the precious poems left to us by Henry Vaughan the Silurist, there is one stanza which will be in the memory of all those who are familiar with his writings — He that hath found some fledg'd bird's nest may know At first sight if the bird be flown ; But what fair dell or grove he sings in now, That is to him unknown. I could not restrain some such sorrowful feeling as is here alluded to from creeping over my mind as I looked at the empty tenements, and wondered what 96 Country Pleasures. had become of the tender creatures over whose fortunes I had been watching so long. The first nest which was cleared was that of the hedge-warbler. I have already spoken of the beauty of the eggs of this bird. They are small in size and of a bright and spotless blue. I first saw the nest, containing four eggs, on the second of May. It was in an exposed situation, on the top of a stump, and against a paling ; but it was protected a little from the rain by an overhanging ledge. It was not far from the ground, and though soft and neatly formed, a long tuft of dry grass had been allowed to remain hanging below, as if more material had been brought together than was found necessary for the completion of the structure. The hedge-warbler is bold and familiar in its relations with man, and this will account for the position of the nest ; but I have often thought how, as the bird continued her long and patient vigil, by night and^by day, the frequent footfall on the other side of the paling must have ' shot light horror through her pulses.' On May the tenth, the young warblers were out of their shells, but they were so huddled together at the bottom of the nest that I could not tell how many there were. All that one could see was a round lump of pink flesh, covered with a little dark-coloured down, from which there protruded two heads ; but May. 97 underneath there might have been more. During the period of incubation I only found the old bird once off the eggs : but after the hatching she was generally on a neighbouring tree during the daytime. As night approached she was always on the nest. She became so tame that she would allow me to stand over her without moving, and I was able to see how closely she covered the young brood with her wings. It was always a wonder to me that they were not smothered. On the fourteenth I saw for the first time that all the eggs had been hatched, for there were now quite visible four, red, upturned throats. All bird's nests seem to me to err by defect, and on the fifteenth there was so little room for the young ones that they had to arrange themselves cunningly, one being underneath and three on the top. All the mouths were up and turned one way — towards the light and air. By this time the heads were covered with rudimentary black feathers ; the bodies were of a dusky brown ; and the bills began to show a tinge of yellow. On the eighteenth they looked ridiculously large for their small nest, and I said to myself, ' If they do not fly soon they will tumble out.' Their eyes were, now, for the first time, open and intelligent ; and they seemed to look up to me as if for help. When I saw them last a little green had begun to show itself g8 Country Pleasures. among the light brown feathers under the head ; and on the nineteenth they were gone. This was nine or ten days after they had been hatched. The fruit-tree blossom is now over ; but the rasp- berry canes are in flower. The heavy rain has dashed the hawthorn and the laburnum, and I am afraid they will not recover their splendour ; the red hawthorn has suffered least. Two new blooms, however, are out — the guelder-rose and the mountain-ash. To-day being the twenty-ninth, we have taken down the hawthorn in the hall and put up a branch of oak, not so much, it must be confessed, in honour of Charles as of the royal tree itself — the king of the English wood. It is on record that at one time the whole parish of Moston was covered with great oaks ; now they are all small and of recent growth ; but as I look up at their green leafage — green and thick as any — I picture to myself that giant at Boscobel, the — Famous brother-oak Wherein the younger Charles abode Till all the paths were dim, And far below the Roundhead rode, And humm'd a surly hymn. June. gg JUNE. And what is so rare as a day in June ? Then if ever come perfect days ; Then heaven tries the earth if it be in tune, And over it softly her warm ear lays : Whether we look or whether we listen, We hear life murmur, or see it glisten ; Every clod feels a stir of might, An instinct within it that reaches and towers, And groping blindly above it for light, Climbs to a soul in grass and flowers. J. R. Lowell, The Vision of Sir Launfal. XXL— MORE ABOUT BIRDS : MEADOW-PIPIT AND BLACKBIRD. June 5. In my last notes I sketched the true story of a hedge-warbler's nest : this week I can furnish in addi- tion one or two slight monographs on similar subjects. Within our enclosures there is a piece of meadow- land which has been left uncultured for a time, and is now pretty thickly studded with long tufts of rushes and of coarse grass. In these I have found h 2 ioo Country Pleasures. several nests of the meadow-pipit, or titlark. I came upon the first of them on the sixth of May. The nest is small and built upon the ground, so that the stems of the rushes rise closely round it, and in such a way as to conceal it effectually from a casual observer. The bird is not unlike the skylark in colour, but is smaller ; the tail is long and edged with white. It is well known, and has many names besides the two already given ; most of these are intended to indicate either its habitation or its song : among them are moss-cheeper, ling-bird, titling, wekeen, moor-tit, heather-lintie, and meadow-lark. When I was approaching the nest, but still at some distance from it, I saw a bird rise and fly away over a fence. This was probably the male. When I got nearer, a second bird rose and made off slowly, with a low jerking flight, along the ground, as if it had been lame. This would seem to be one of the habits of the bird, for Yarrell says : — ' The parent bird has been 'observed to feign being wounded for the purpose of drawing attention from its nest.' The eggs were four in number, of a light brown without gloss, and about the same size as those of the hedge-warbler. In two days after this the eggs were gone, and in their place there lay at the bottom of the nest a round ball of down, from which protruded two small heads about June. 101 the size of the end of my pencil. On the ninth there were three mouths to be seen, but the bodies were not distinguishable from each other. By this time the old bird had got to know me somewhat, and retreated but a short distance, resting, during my stay, upon a neighbouring post. On the eleventh I saw that all the four eggs had been duly hatched. On the fifteenth the bills were yellow, and the bodies much darker in colour. On the eighteenth I found one of the young birds in the field, at some distance from the nest. I could not see that it had been hurt, and it was alive ; but it died in my hand after a few minutes. It was a dainty little creature, light- coloured, and beautifully marked ; but the legs seemed too slender to carry it, and the wings too small for flight. I suppose it was the restless genius of its race, the poor Icarus of the brood. The other young ones, more prudent and less ambitious, were still snugly ensconced in the nest. On the morning of the twentieth, I saw that they were ready to fly : and on the evening of the same day they were gone. The bottom of the nest was not plastered like that of the thrush, but beautifully soft and elastic, the latter quality being produced by the arrangement of many layers of very fine grass mixed with a little hair. 102 Country Pleasures. It is strange that a bird should build in such an exposed and unprotected place. A chance foot might have crushed the young brood at any time, and they seemed to have little shelter from the heavy rains which fell frequently during the period of fledging. On wet and stormy nights I often thought of them in their poor lodging ; and it was a pleasure to believe that after all, perhaps, they were warm enough with thai soft bed underneath and the mother's wings closely covering them above. In the morning, when I visited them and saw the parent bird chirping blithely about, I used to say to myself, in the words of the old poet — Many a sullen storm, For which coarse man seems much the fitter born, Rain'd on thy bed And harmless head ; And now as fresh and chearful as the light Thy little heart in early hymns doth sing Unto that Providence, whose unseen arm Curb'd them and cloath'd thee well and warm. In my notes of May the eighth, I mentioned a blackbird's nest which I had found high up on an ivied wall. The hen was then sitting, and I am not, there- fore, able to fix the period of incubation. As I passed I could see her head over the edge of the nest ; but on the eleventh, finding her away, I mounted a ladder and discovered that three young birds had been hatched. June. 103 This was in the daytime ; at dusk the hen was on the nest again, and this, I think, was her usual custom, for I only found her sitting with her young once in the middle of the day, while at night she was always there. On the twentieth the nest was too small for the three big dusky birds which it contained. When I stood and whistled under the nest, one young bird put out its head and looked at me. On the twenty-first they were still in the nest, but seemed quite full-grown ; and on the twenty-second they had flown. This was eleven days after I first saw them. The nest of this bird is deserving of notice. It is larger and more untidy than that of the thrush, but the way in which it has been dexterously worked in between the wall and the stems of the ivy is wonderful ; the latter, indeed, have evidently been forced away from the wall, and then their elasticity made use of to bind the nest up and make it tight. At the same time, the ivy-leaves have been so economised as to make a perfect and overhanging roof. The blackbirds are more numerous this year than usual. They are on the lawn every morning break- fasting on the wriggling worms, and I never miss their loud fluting at night. I suppose they are waiting for my cherries. But what of that ? I am content to take sweet music in exchange for stone 104 Country Pleasures. fruit, and join heartily in the laureate's well-known invitation : — O blackbird I sing me something well : While all the neighbours shoot thee round, I keep smooth plats of fruitful ground, Where thou may'st warble, eat, and dwell. In the greenhouse the large, dark, purple clematis is in bloom — a noble flower, some four or five inches across ; and out of doors we have promise of another splendid blossom, for the first foxgloves are in bud. Since the month of June came in the weather has been broken— a little sunshine and much rain, some- times with heavy wind. On the third, the morning was peculiarly warm and still, and so overhung with cloud as to seem dark. The rain had fallen through the night so quietly that it lay on the grass like dew, some six or seven separate pearls being seen on each long blade. On first opening the window I thought these white rain-drops were some new flower that had sprung up in the night, or that the old haw- thorn bloom had been blown over the lawn. I ha,ve often observed how much greener the trees appear under these cloudy conditions than they do when the sky is clear and the light full. Standing at a window, where I could look into the midmost branches of a tall beech, and see one great bough making a green June. 105 floor beneath, and another forming a green roof above, I felt, as I have frequently done before, how enviable a home the birds and other small forest creatures have had given to them, and how pleasant it would be, even for oneself, to creep up sometimes and make a temporary lodge in that leafy wilderness. Happening to mention, in a vein of pleasantry, to my friend the Professor the longing which L felt for such a retreat, I found him looking as if I had confessed to him some new development in me of original sin. ' You should not,' he said with a reproachful frown, ' con- sider these things so lightly. The least you can do is to regard with a serious and pious feeling the memory of your ancestry. In all probability the idea which haunts you now is an inborn instinct passed on to you through innumerable and infinitesimal ducts from some far-off ffion when your progenitors nested or herded in such a superterrene covert as that which now so fastens itself upon your fancy.' I answered meekly that I would endeavour in future to accord to my elementary ancestors a proper reverence ; and that I should be indeed thankful if they had en- dowed me with no worse propensity than the desire to live in trees. io6 Country Pleasures. XXII. -WHITSUNTIDE: THE SKYLARK. June ii. Slowly or swiftly, as the mind chooses to shape it, the year moves onward in its round — a creeping and a petty pace to some ; to others a wild and breathless dance. But slow or swift the inevitable points are reached, passed, and left behind for ever. And so here, in its course, is Whitsuntide — an ancient holiday and a modern one — adapting itself to chang- ing creeds and new civilisations, as even its names sufficiently indicate — Pentecost, Pfingsten-tag, and Whitsuntide. An old writer, describing the English Whitsuntide in his day, says : ' The house-keepers met and were merry, and gave their charity. The young people were there too, and had dancing, bowl- ing, shooting at butts, &c, the ancients sitting gravely by, and looking on. All things were civil and without scandal.' And so it remains — ' the young people are there too ' ; indeed the festival, as known to ourselves, may be described as that of the poor, and the children of the poor. In Lancashire, especially, we seem resolved to retain something of the traditional joviality; and happily, too, the pleasures of the time are for the most part connected with ideas of the country. And June. 107 who would wish them curtailed ? None, we should suppose, unless he were either a misanthrope or a churl, who had ever seen the faces of hundreds of children lit up simultaneously with a flash of delight as their Whitsuntide excursion showed them, perhaps for the first time in their lives, certainly for the only time in the year, a real green field, or a mountain- side, or the marvel of the advancing ocean. This year, unfortunately, the conditions are not favourable to holiday-making. We have passed into a stormy cycle ; the thunder has been frequent, the rain has fallen in sheets, and the fields are under water. As I write, the trees are tossing their branches with a wintry wildness in the face of the moon, when the clouds will let her be seen. Our pond here has overflowed all its bounds and made mischievous rivulets along the garden paths ; and even a noisy waterfall has asserted itself in the dell. The boys have consoled themselves by fishing — not with much success — and by the construction of mimic waterwheels. Herrick gives us, as usual, the sylvan note of the festival — When yew is out, then birch comes in, And many flowers beside, Both of a fresh and fragrant kinne, To honour Whitsuntide. io8 Country Pleasures. Green rushes then, and sweetest bents, With cooler oken boughs, Come in for comely ornaments, To re-adorn the house. Thus times do shift ; each thing his turne do's hold ; New things succeed as former things grow old. Because there was rain without, was that reason why there should be no appropriate bravery within ? It seemed not, and therefore on Saturday I went into the garden, and made a great nosegay for Sunday morning ' to honour Whitsuntide ' — not a dainty hand-bouquet, but a capacious bunch of leaves and flowers that covered half the table. There was a branch of oak — one sees, as one looks at the delicious green, why Herrick calls it ' cool ' — a branch of birch, some fronds of hart's-tongue, the ribbon-grass for grace, the sword-grass for stiff dignity, a splendid peony for a centre of colour — is any English flower finer than this? — the blue corn-flower, the pencilled iris in many tints, and a few classic-looking yellow trumpet lilies. Yesterday, in the afternoon, there was a temporary cessation of the storm, and we took a short journey to a pleasant village in the south-east corner of the county. We had such an evening as can only come after a day of heavy rain ; and being upon high ground we saw some thirty or forty miles of cham- June. iog paign country stretching beneath us — green meadows, dark woods rising like unbroken walls or opening to reveal the landscape beyond, broad tracts of ruddy moorland over which the slow trains seemed to creep, innumerable hamlets, each marked by its tower or spire, and, in the far distance, as a bounding line, the dusky hills of Derbyshire. At twenty minutes before nine I saw a lark in the sky and heard him singing — grand egotist as he is — as if he had been the very genius and incarnate voice of the whole splendid scene. All the earth and air With that voice was loud. It has been said that the skylark never sings after the sun is below the horizon, and that Shelley was wrong in speaking of the bird as singing — In the golden lightning Of the sunken sun. But the poet was unquestionably right, as my obser- vation on this occasion, and on many others, enables me to certify. At this particular time the moon was perceptibly brightening ; and although there were thin streaks of fading colour in the upper sky, the sun had been set for twenty or thirty minutes, and the west was already cold and grey. The bird was in no hurry to finish no Country Pleasures. his vesper ; but came slowly down from a great height, singing on the way and making but a short drop at the last. There were no trees near him, and I saw him waver over the meadow until he found his nest and sank quietly into it. So you see the lark ' startles the dull night ' not only at its departure, as Milton puts it, but also upon its appearing. XXIII.— SUMMER IN THE MIDLANDS. Church Stretton : June 17. The end of Whitsuntide was better than the begin- ning. On the night of the thirteenth a change came and by the next day the weather, as befits the month of June, had become bright and warm. After making a flying visit to the Lancashire sea-coast, and breath- ing for a few hours that fine air which, when the wind is in the north-west, comes over from the Cumberland hills and mingles with that which rises from the scented pastures of the Fylde, we shifted our quarters into the middle of the southern division of Shropshire. And there we make our notes for the week. Far from noise and smoke of town, we say to ourselves ; and again with the earlier poet — Far from the madding crowd's ignoble strife. june. in These words express the feeling that we had as we found ourselves really at rest in the deep and, sequestered country — the real country, where no trace or hint of the city or of manufacturing pursuits re- mained to obtrude itself, if we except, as we must, the inevitable iron link by favour of which we had arrived. And indeed it was but a pleasant morning's ride out of Lancashire and across Cheshire into this fine county of Salop, lying about midway between the northern and southern extremities of England, watered by the Severn — the 'queen of rivers' — well cultivated, well wooded, yet not without its own picturesque hills, and having the Welsh mountains running along the whole of its western boundary. In this direction we Lancashire people find our quickest access into a region of purely pastoral and agricul- tural life. We leave the railway at Church Stretton station and walking towards the hills, soon come into the quiet village. There is a large inn ; but it is kept by a company and seems out of harmony with its sur- roundings, so we take refuge in a smaller and home- lier hostel, the oldest in the place, an ancient manor- house, in fact, where we find unpretentious comfort, excellent fare, and that kindness which cannot be bought ; and where, also, there is nothing to break in 112 Country Pleasures. upon the rural simplicity which is the charm of the place. Church Stretton has one main street and not much else. Looked at from a little distance, it is simply a grey square tower — the church tower — a cluster of red roofs, a thick belt of wood and a high background of turf-covered hills. These hills, which are close to the village and west of it, form what is called the Long Mynd ; across a narrow valley to the south-east is another range known as the Cara- doc. The Long Mynd is some 1,700 feet high, the Caradoc is about 1,200. Even at noon the village seems to be asleep. Hardly a sound reaches the ear except the drowsy crowing of a cock and the chiming of the quarters by a silvery bell in the grey church tower. The people move about so slowly and have such an air of repo'se about them, that by the time we have been there an hour or two, we begin to be ashamed of our compara- tively hurried gait, and try to tone down our motions to that sleepiness which we associate with a certain scene in ' Rip Van Winkle.' Passing through the churchyard and round by the Rectory — which is hidden in magnificent timber — we come into a steep lane that leads towards the hills. Here we find all the wealth of summer. The hedges are high and June. 113 thickly set with well-grown hollies : the limes are in their fullest leafage, and are also in flower. Along the banks we gather the two forget-me-nots — that which grows on the dry soil and that which frequents the wet ditch ; two species of herb-robert, the woodruff, smelling like new-mown hay and bearing its little white diamond-like flower ; the three stel- larias ; the fox-glove, already grown to a stately height ; the woodbine, profuse with its odour ; and the wild rose, reticent both of its colour and its smell, but none the less delicious on that account. Higher up, when we come upon the hill-side, we find the eye- bright and the bird's-foot. Here we look down upon a green hollow, through which a clear stream mean- ders. Before us is a narrowing valley, formed by curiously shaped and overlapping hills. Following the path for a couple of miles, and passing an old water-driven mill, we come into a wild and narrow gorge, where there is a little fall, locally known as the ' Light Spout.' Here the rock breaks through the turf, and the green is made more vivid by contrast with dark masses of heath. We climb up by. the fall and on to the top of the hill ; and there, at the height of a thousand feet, we find the mountain pansy, grow- ing thickly among the pasture. It is a lonely scene but very lovely as we look upon it, under a sky 1 14 Country Pleasures. clouded, but sometimes breaking into blue. When we get back to the village the night is setting in, and the course of life there is quieter than ever. It seems, indeed, as if it would cease altogether if it were not for the silvery bell in the grey tower which goes on chiming the quarters. The next day is Sunday. The morning is cloud- less, but cool and sweet, the wind having got round to the north. The first sound we hear is that which has now become to us the voice of Church Stretton — the grey tower chiming the quarters. At eight o'clock a peal is rung, soft and unobtrusive. When we get into the churchyard the old clerk is locking the doors after an early service. We wander about among the graves, and remember how near we are to the Welsh Border as we read the names engraven on the stones — Evans, Lloyd, Gwynn, and, in one case, ' Henry and Mary Tudor.' At church-time we are returning from a short stroll among the hills and pause at a point where we overlook the village. We are listening to the mellow bleating of the sheep in the distant folds, when the bells in the grey tower begin once more, and slowly we discover that now the ringers are skilfully running over the notes of a sweet and familiar hymn — the Quam Dilecta of Bishop Jenner. We descend and June. 115 join the quiet company which is slowly passing between the graves and through the Norman doorway, with the words of old George Herbert on our lips : — O Day most calm, most bright, The fruit of this, the next world's bud, Th' indorsement of supreme delight, Writ by a friend, and with his bloud ; The couch of time ; care's balm and bay : The week were dark but for thy light : Thy torch doth show the way. In the evening we crossed the valley and ascended Caradoc. The way ran by deep lanes and through field-paths. All the flowers were there again, but the most frequent were the honeysuckle and the rose. When we had climbed six hundred feet up the hill, so deep was the silence that we heard, as we stood and paused for breath, the cuckoo calling from a wood down in the valley and at least a mile away. On the summit we found, more plainly marked than we ex- pected, the ancient camp of Caractacus — Caer Cara- doc. Round the grim rocks and over the old-world ramparts we saw the swifts, or black-martens, darting about in great numbers. Were their nests built at that great height — twelve hundred feet above the sea — or had they come up from the valley in search of food ? After seeing the sun dip below the great plain, out of which rose the Wrekin, we descended rapidly : and, 1 2 n6 Country Pleasures. as we skirted the bottom of the hill in the deepening twilight, suddenly we heard the cuckoo again. This time he was close by, and on the open ground. Turn- ing suddenly round, we saw him rise and fly into a deep wood. It was now nine o'clock, but yet his song was not over. Again and again we heard, his myste- rious cry issue from the dark retreat into which we had seen him enter. There was a fascination about it, and we lingered until we were sure that his voice would be heard no more. We had been fortunate enough to catch sight of the strange creature — strange in his habits and his history — and could not say with Wordsworth — O Cuckoo ! shall I call thee bird, Or but a wandering Voice ? — Still longed for, never seen. We bade him good-night, therefore, with this one charming stanza of an almost forgotten poet : — Sweet bird ! thy bower is ever green Thy sky is ever clear ; Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, No winter in thy year 1 The lights were being extinguished as we got back into Church Stretton, and the silvery chime from the grey tower, announcing ten o'clock, seemed to ripple along the street and up and down all the leafy alleys of the village. June. Liy XXIV.— MIDSUMMER NIGHTS AND DAYS. June 25. The summer is come at last in all its plenitude of light and warmth. And that means for us, first, the definite cessation of the winter fire, which usually keeps on an intermittent existence all through the fickle days of spring ; it means breakfasting with open win- dows, and with the song of birds echoing through the house ; it means, in short, what is but a rare and a brief thing in our northern part of England— pleasant life in the open air; the early morning walk in the dewy wood, when the shafts of light look wet and green ; and long lingering in the garden at night, when the ' mild twilight, like a silver clasp, unites to-day with yesterday, and Morning and Evening sit together, hand in hand, beneath the starless sky of midnight.' The sky is not quite starless here. I have just come in from the garden. It wants but a quarter to eleven, and yet there is still a faint tinge of daylight- blue remaining in the heavens, and it is light enough to see the time by one's watch. In the north-west there are some fleecy clouds, which wear a silvery tone. There is no doubt that the light comes up from where the sun has set, for the lower edges of these clouds are the brightest. A few small starry points n8 Country Pleasures. and one bright planet are visible. I could just make out the Great Bear, almost in the zenith, and with the tail pointing due south. There was not light enough to distinguish the colours of flowers, but on the perennial beds I could see patches of the old-fashioned, white, sweet-scented pink, and in the wood it was possible to make out some tall white foxgloves stand- ing like fairy vestals under the shade of the trees. To look at their delicately diminishing rows of snowy bells under such circumstances was indeed ' A Mid- summer Night's Dream.' So long is the day at this time of the year. How short the night is I have proved for myself. Being awake and abroad on one day this week at half-past two, I saw unmistakable indications of the dawn, and heard not one but many birds already in full song. Those who have not seen it can have little conception of the strange and ma- gical beauty of a summer morning at this hour. The stars were all gone, but the thin moon was rising in the east : the sun would soon follow after, and the saffron colour of the day was already passing over the sky and tinging the clouds. I know of no other appearance in nature which gives the same idea of soft, quiet, gradual, and yet altogether certain and irresistible subjugation. It is the kingdom of light driving out the kingdom of darkness. On the same June. ng day the birds were still singing at half-past nine in the evening. On other occasions I have heard the thrush as late as ten o'clock. There would be, there- fore, for these little busy throats and wings only some four or five hours of rest out of the twenty-four. Wordsworth's poem on ' The Longest Day ' naturally recurs to us here : — Evening now unbinds the fetters Fashioned by the glowing light ; All that breathe are thankful debtors To the harbinger of night. Yet by some grave thoughts attended Eve reviews her calm career ; For the day that now is ended, Is the longest of the year. Summer ebbs ; — each day that follows Is a reflux from on high, Tending to the darksome hollows Where the frosts of winter lie. The quotation about the twilight, made just now from memory, was taken out of a really beautiful piece of prose by Longfellow, which appears as a lengthy note to his translation of Bishop Tegner's Children of the Lord's Supper. Since writing it I have been led to refer to the note itself, which describes the rural life of Sweden, and in it I find the following passage about Midsummer which I had forgotten : — ' And now the glad, leafy Midsummer, full of blossoms 120 Country Pleasures. and the song of nightingales, is come ! Saint John has taken the flowers and festival of heathen Balder ; and in every village there is a Maypole fifty feet high, with wreaths and roses and ribands streaming in the wind.' This festival of Midsummer is hardly at all regarded now. It was once, along with Yuletide, its wintry counterpart, the most famous of the year. The night of the twenty-third, under the name of St. John's Eve, was a time of great rejoicing and also of many mysterious observances. Fires were lighted in the towns and the people danced round them, and threw garlands into the flames. In the country it was usual, as at so many other times of the year, to go into the woods and bring home great branches of trees, which were put over the doors of the houses. This is alluded to by old Barnaby Googe : — Then doth the joyfull feast of John the Baptist take his turne, When bonfiers great, with loftie flame, in every towne doe burne ; And yong men round about with maides doe daunce in every streete, With garlands wrought of Motherworth, or else with Vervain sweete. On this night, too, it was usual to remain awake, in order to watch for departed souls, which were said to wander about and return to their old haunts : and in most parts of Europe there are curious superstitions June. • 121 connected with the gathering, on this particular night, of the seed of St. John's fern. The woods are just now in their fullest leaf. This is indeed the ' leafy month of June,' but the leaves are already all of one colour or nearly so. If we look at them in the mass, we see they are all dark green, and there is little variety, except that which arises from the play of light and shade. This will last but a short time. The chequered tints of autumn will quickly make their appearance ; and yet it is but a few weeks since we left behind us the refreshing and wonderfully various greens of spring. At the beginning of the month I took the trouble to set down the trees round the house here according to the place which they then occupied in the scale of colour. Beginning with the darkest green, they come in the following order : — i. Chestnut. 9. Birch. 2. Hawthorn. 10. Beech. 3. Lilac. 11. Ash. 4. Elder. 12. Lime. 5. Mountain-ash. 13. Ivy. 6. Elm. 14. Willow. 7. Laburnum. 15. Oak. 8. Sycamore. It may be observed that the colour and beauty of the leaf depend very much upon its texture. Some are nearly opaque, some let the light fall through them, 122 Country Pleasures. and some have the upper surface highly polished. Of those mentioned, the transparent leaves are the syca- more, beech, lime, and oak. The most opaque is the lilac. The polished leaves are the hawthorn, birch, beech, ash, ivy, willow, and oak. Cowper has a passage in The Task, in which he carefully notes the colours of the leaves ; but his observation was evidently made later in the season than my own, for the oak at the beginning of June was the lightest of all, and he speaks of it as being of the deepest green : — „ No tree in all the grove but has its charms, Though each its hue peculiar ; paler some, And of a wannish grey ; the willow such, And poplar, that with silver lines his leaf, And ash far stretching his umbrageous arm ; Of deeper green the elm ; and deeper still, Lord of the woods, the long-surviving oak. Some glossy-leaved, and shining in the sun, The maple, and the beech of oily nuts Prolific, and the lime at dewy eve Diffusing odours : nor unnoted pass The sycamore, capricious in attire, Now green, now tawny, and, ere autumn yet Have changed the woods, in scarlet honours bright. The poet is very accurate in his description of the sycamore. It is now the only exception to the general green. If looked at, especially from above, it will be seen that at the top of each spray there is a cluster of new leaves which are of a brilliant red. July. 123 JULY. Then came hot July boyling like to fire, That all his garments he had cast away. Behind his back a sithe, and by his side Under his belt he bore a sickle circling wide. Spenser, The Faerie Quecnc. The fire of July In its passionate noon. J. H. Newman, The Queen of Seasons. XXV.— TROPICAL SUMMER: IN THE HAYFIELD. July 3- It is but little more than a week since we felt for the first time that we were fairly leaving behind us the uncertain temperature of the spring. Since then we have had not only an English summer at its best, but a summer of the Tropics. In the middle of the day the thermometers have been giving all sorts of extraordinary registers. In my garden here I know that even at half-past five in the evening of the twenty- sixth of June the point marked was 113 ; and so late as eight o'clock on the twenty-seventh, when the 124 Country Pleasures. coolness of night should have been coming on, the registration was still 8o°. At this time I was sitting under a beech-tree at the edge of the large pond, and it seemed to me that all the birds in the garden were making incessant journeys, to and fro, across the water. Probably they found that their usually cool and shady quarters were yet burning with the heat of the day. On the twenty-eighth, although it was still singularly hot, a strong wind sprang up from the east ; and after this (the wind continuing in the same quarter) each day became cooler. Many leaves were shrivelled by the great heat, and were brought to the ground in showers by the wind, which at one time became violent enough to strike off the heads of the taller flowers, and even to break down branches of the trees. After all, this bountiful outburst of sunshine, though grievous to some people, has been a great boon to most, and has put a wealth of life into the blood which will be felt even when the snows of December are upon us. The rapidity with which the flowers came out during the days of greatest heat was very remarkable. The purple foxgloves, the orange lilies, the tall yellow iris, the campanula, the musk, the marigold, and the sweet-william were most conspicuous. But best of all were the roses. Between our orchard and the wood there is a little trellised July. 125 avenue covered on both sides with bushes of a hardy climbing rose, in colour, white, with a blush centre. These were timidly showing their buds about the middle of June, and each day two or three would open : but, under the influence of the heat, they burst out in hundreds ; and I observe that the scent is more delicious and the colour deeper than on any previous year. This is owing, no doubt, to the continuous sunshine and to the absence of rain. In the green- house the most noticeable things are the centaurea, with its yellow thistle-like bloom ; the great pas- sion-flower, and the plumbago — inharmonious name for one of our most unique and delicately coloured blossoms. The hay harvest, later here probably than in most places, has been nearly got in. The scent of it is about the house all day long, and no garden posy is sweeter than a swath of new-mown hay. There are few passages in our English country life more pleasant than this, or fuller of healthy and delightful associations. We are in the hayfield early in the morning, and realise for ourselves the truth of those fine lines in In Memoriam : — O sound to rout the brood of cares, The' sweep of scythe in morning dew; — 126 Country Pleasures. and again in the evening, when the long day's work is nearly done, and when groups of happy children make pictures all over the meadow. Following the mowers yesterday we saw them cut away the grass above the nest of a poor field-mouse. The mother escaped, and the young ones were un- touched by the scythe. My boys gathered them up and took them home. The nest is nothing more than a little round bed made of closely-nibbled grass, soft enough, but not shaped or woven like that of a bird. There were six in the litter. They are curious-look- ing creatures, very light in colour, little more than an inch long altogether, and the head itself being nearly as large as the body. They are blind like young puppies, but seem able to use their tiny mouths. It seemed a hard thing to break in so rudely and so sud- denly on what was probably, a moment before, a happy and contented little homestead. Some such feeling, I suppose, was in the mind of Burns when he wrote his well-known poem : — Wee, sleekit, cow'rin, tim'rous beastie, O, what a panic's in thy breastie ! That wee bit heap o' leaves an' stibble, Has cost thee mony a weary nibble ! But, mousie, thou art no thy lane In proving foresight may be vain ; July. 127 The best laid schemes o' mice an' men Gang aft a-gley, An' lea' us nought but grief an' pain, For promis'd joy. Still thou art blest, compar'd wi' me ! The present only toucheth thee : But, Och 1 I backward cast my e'e On prospects drear 1 An' forward, tho' I canna see, I guess an' fear I This morning early the long-continued dry weather was broken by a copious shower, the first we have had since the twenty-third of June. After the rain the air was delightfully cool and sweet. The sun came out, and on the lawn I saw a blackbird, not hurrying about for food, as it would have done earlier in the year, but quietly preening its wings and brooding on the warm earth like a domestic fowl. I imagine this means that the young ones have been settled in life, and that the troubles of parentage are over. We have had no more rain during the day, but the air has been fresh and full of changes. At sunset the sky was in many moods at one moment. In the south the clouds were cool and rainy, and had the roll of David Cox about them ; in the north-east they were ribbed and lighted as Linnel would have had them : while in the west there was one of those luminous and 128 Country Pleasures. burning sunsets — the very embodiment of splendid power — a thing which everybody may see, which so few care to see, and which only one man has yet been able to paint with any approach to adequacy. XXVI.— THE FOXGLOVE GARDEN. July 10. Although we have had no return this week of that fervent heat recorded in my last notes, there has been a good deal of clear and pleasant sunlight, tempered and softened on most days by a fresh breeze from the west. It is the glory of the summer ; and, for a little while, we are the ' children of the sun,' and live in his presence. On days like these the idea of solar worship, such as it once existed, is not at all startling. As we follow the sun in his long course through the sky, from the first glimmer of dawn to the last flush of his setting, and feel how ourselves and all our sur- roundings are overspread and enfolded by his exist- ence, we can understand how the ancient Guebres should see in him the symbol, if not the very pre- sence itself, of a beneficent power. Under the influence of some such idea Goethe, in that wonderful Hymn which occurs in the prologue July. 129 to Faust, has, I think intentionally, confused the visible sun with the unseen Deity. The Archangel Raphael sings : — The sun makes music as of old Amid the rival spheres of Heaven, On its predestined circle rolled With thunder speed : the Angels even Draw strength from gazing on its glance, Though none its meaning fathom may : — The world's unwithered countenance Is bright as at creation's day. In a subsequent verse there are the following lines : — But thy servants, Lord, revere The gentle changes of thy day. And then comes the ambiguous chorus : — The Angels draw strength from thy glance, Though no one comprehend thee may : — Thy world's unwithered countenance Is bright as on creation's day. During the last day or two the skies have become more clouded, and there has been a little rain — truly the 'gentle rain from heaven,' falling so softly 'upon the place beneath,' and coming, when so much needed by the parched earth, that it seemed not only our poet's apt image of mercy, but the very ' quality ' itself. Before the rain came, many of the trees and shrubs were beginning to suffer. The rhododendrons 130 Country Pleasures. were the first to hang down their leaves, and as they give us now our brightest green, we took care to afford them copious drenchings of water. Just at this time there is probably the least variation of tem- perature during the twenty-four hours. As there is no sharp line between the light and the dark, so there is the least difference between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. On several occasions I have observed only a fall of ten degrees from the middle of the afternoon to the lowest point at night. The most conspicuous flower of the week is the foxglove. So early as the middle of January its foliage began to brighten ; and now its white and purple bloom is the beauty of the garden. If we take into account its size, its perfection of form, and its richness of colour, we shall admit that there is no English wild-flower to equal it. Linnaeus is said to have gone down upon his knees before the splendour of the gorse ; and one might well stand for hours in admiring contemplation of the foxglove as it bends its richly adorned stem backward and forward in the breeze. In the garden here we are great in foxgloves. We encourage them everywhere. They mingle with the smaller perennial flowers ; they stand like sentinels July. 131 behind the plots of geraniums ; we come upon them unawares in many shady and out-of-the-way corners where nothing else will grow ; and besides that, they have a sort of garden all to themselves. This garden is a sloping bed underneath a hedge of hawthorn. It is some forty yards in length and four or five in width, and with the exception of a few primroses, which of course are over now, we let nothing grow there but the foxglove. This year the plants in flower contemporaneously are not so numerous as usual, but I have seen in previous years many hundreds in bloom at once. Only in one other place have I ever come upon so many together, and these were on the bank of a steep lane climbing out of Porlock on to Exmoor. It may be supposed that the effect is monotonous, but that is not so. Each plant varies in height and in shape, the purple and the white are mixed, and, besides this, it is one of the peculiarities of the foxglove that the bells on the same stem are graduated in tint according to their age. Somewhere in the writings of Mr. Ruskin I remember to have seen a passage in which he speaks of the foxglove as typifying the various stages of human life. The comparison is remarkably apposite. At the tip of the long stem is the small, green, K 2 132 Country Pleasures. unopened bud ; then, passing down with most perfect gradation, we see, first, the colour begin to flush, then the buds are slightly open, then the development of beauty is complete; next, decay has begun, the corolla flies off with a gust of wind and leaves the pistil bare ; then at the bottom there is the seed vessel, green, like the first bud, and boasting no loveliness of form ; and last, if we wait long enough, there is death, when the once beautiful and stately stem topples over and lies rotting on the ground. The fertility of the foxglove is very great. We have plants here which rise to the height of six feet, and which will bear, during their course, a hundred and twenty flowers. The product from these would probably be not less than ten thousand seeds. What opulence of life, what seeming waste of life ! and— can we repress the question — to what intent? In the presence of such a phenomenon we naturally ask — Are God and Nature then at strife, That Nature lends such evil dreams ? So careful of the type she seems, So careless of the single life ; That I, considering everywhere Her secret meaning in her deeds, And finding that of fifty seeds She often brings but one to bear ; July. 133 I falter where I firmly trod, And falling with my weight of cares Upon the great world's altar-stairs That slope thro' darkness up to God ; I stretch lame hands of faith, and grope, And gather dust and chaff, and call To what I feel is Lord of all, And faintly trust the larger hope. Our talk about the foxglove has led us into deep waters. The note of the subject, however, was struck in unconscious harmony with the scene which a little while ago was left outside — a grey and rainy • twilight, showing only that one faint and passing gleam of yellow which is the most mournful thing we ever see in the sky. There is no doubt also that Nature, generally, is beginning to assume an air of gravity, if not of solemnity. The childlike joyous- ness is gone. If I am asked to account for this, I can only answer that it seems to me to be owing chiefly to the deep colour of the woods and the silence of the birds. XXVII.— THE SUMMER WOODS. July 17. ' The deep colour of the woods and the silence of the birds ' — these two things not only account for the change in what may be called the sentiment of 134 Country Pleasures. Nature, but they also become increasingly character- istic of the season as we get further into the month of July. More and more we feel, by comparison, how delicious was the ' living green ' of spring — to quote that happy phrase which occurs in one of our best hymns : — Sweet fields beyond the swelling flood Stand dress'd in living green. As we look on the present sombre monotony of the leaves, we know that it means rest, fulfilment, achieve- ment — peace, perhaps ; but not force, freshness, hope, elasticity. These are gone when development is complete. My garden -book to-night was that choicest volume of the year, the Selected Poems of Matthew Arnold, and I found myself turning over, perhaps for the fiftieth time, the ' Monody of Thyrsis ' : a poem which has probably a surer chance of immortality than most modern pieces, for the reason that it combines in an unusual degree classic perfection with the freedom of the romantic school. And in one beautiful stanza I find described an aspect of human life which seems to me the correlative of that condition in external nature which we are at present considering — July- 135 Round me too the night In ever-nearing circle weaves her shade. I see her veil draw soft across the day, I feel her slowly chilling breath invade The cheek grown thin, the brown hair sprent with grey ; I feel her finger light Laid pausefully upon life's headlong train ; — The foot less prompt to meet the morning dew, The heart less bounding at emotion new, And hope, once crush'd, less quick to spring again. That is just what we feel with regard to the woods : the bounding force is gone, and the premonitory breath of autumn has already made invasion upon them. It seems early to talk of autumn: but the summer is short, — our shortest season — and, even while we are noting the dark and unvarying green, we see the tints of the later time beginning to creep in. The beech is the first to show patches of brown ; and on the birch you see a bright yellow leaf here and there, like an accidental splash of colour. The sycamore still wears the new red leaves, which I have spoken of before. This tree is the most party-coloured of all. I wish I could get some one to paint the four leaves which I have just taken from one bough. The first — the newest — is a brilliant red, the second is red, shaded with green, the next is all dark green, and the last is so mixed with brown that it gives the effect of 136 Country Pleasures. the finest bronze. So we get as it were all the sea- sons represented on one tree ; just as, in fact, these seasons run one into each other. In winter when, by the calendar, everything should be torpid or dead, you can always find some spot of vivid green which fore- tells the spring; in spring the winter lingers and covers up the blossom with snow ; in summer the autumn is often precipitately busy with the touch of decay ; and in the very depth of autumn we usually have a respite and fall back into the warm wealth of summer. Among the forest-trees the willow is now the lightest green ; next to that is the ash ; and if we look very closely we shall see that at this particular time there are a few new leaves, of light colour, on nearly all the trees. Those on the hawthorn are often red, and make the spray a beautiful object. John Clare, in his Shepherd's Calendar, has noted the colour of the willow at this time. Under the month of July he says : — The shepherd still Enjoys his summer dreams at will ; Bent o'er his hook, or listless laid Beneath the pasture's willow shade, Whose foliage shines so cool and gray Amid the sultry hues of day. And then there is the silence of the birds. That July. 137 too has made a great distinction between the spring and the summer. Nature may be very lovely, even when she is silent, but she is not cheerful. The winds and the waters ; the birds, the bees, and a thousand other winged creatures speak for her; and when these are not heard she is apt to become sad even in her beauty. Of these voices, that of the birds comes nearest to us and touches us most, and is therefore now missed more than any other. We have been accustomed to listen even in the dawn to — The earliest pipe of half-awakened birds; the joy of the morning has been to throw wide open the windows and let in the tempestuous melody ; nor could the dimmest evening-twilight become mournful so long as a single thrush continued his song. But now all this is changed: the birds whistle sometimes, but they do not sing. In the wood there are some six or seven ash-trees standing so closely together as to make by their top- most boughs a continuous field of leaves. Here, as the evening draws on, there is a great congregation of finches. There must be at least a hundred. Lean- ing against one of the boles I wait quietly till the birds are accustomed to my presence and then watch what is going on. I can but imperfectly guess at the 138 Country Pleasures. meaning of what I see. They are all, however, in incessant motion. They chase each other ; they flit from bough to bough ; and, if the wings are still, the tail is moving. Sometimes, in parties of a dozen or so, they seem to make excursions into the garden ; but they quickly return. Their life for an hour is restless and fussy ; and, partly from their motion, partly from the effect of the wind, the light leaves of the ash are in constant oscillation. And all this time there is going on a ceaseless and unmusical twittering, which reminds me of what I have heard of the chattering of monkeys in? a tropical forest. By nine o'clock the busy scene is over ; but two or three, like late revellers, are still chirping and tumbling about among the leaves. When it was nearly dark, in order to assure myself that they were resting for the night in the branches, I shook, though but slightly, one of the smaller trees, and more than a score of birds came fluttering out. Apart from these there are but few birds to be seen now. The swallows here, this year, are less numerous than usual ; and the lark is but seldom heard. The last occasion was on the morning of the twelfth. On the lawn there is now and then a young throstle, delicate in shape and light in colour ; and a few days ago I saw the yellow-wagtail. July. 139 In the" orchard the currants and gooseberries have been gathered, and the cherries are nearly ripe. I should note that a few heads of bloom are still lin- gering on the elder. This tree was the first to show its leaves, and is the last to retain its flower. The weather all the week has been dry and warm, with only very slight rain. On the thirteenth the moon had a mellow autumnal look, and for the first time I felt a crispness in the air, both morning and evening. On the fifteenth, the day sacred to that Swithin (bishop of a thousand years back) who has such a curious legendary connection with the rain, not a drop of moisture fell, not even that slight sprinkling which would have enabled the old gossips to say that the good saint, according to ancient wont, had been christening the green apples which now hang so thickly on the trees. XXVIII.— HOT SUMMER AGAIN : A GOSSIP ABOUT BIRDS. July 24. To-day the long reach of dry and sultry weather has at length been broken. The early morning was so cool and dark that before the windows were un- covered we knew that the welcome rain was coming. It was a pleasant thing to watch the great clouds 140 Country Pleasures. come labouring up — gathering each moment in volume, until at length they broke and sent down the abundant showers for which we were all waiting. The most unimaginative person could hardly have helped feeling that the parched grass and the drooping leaves were in some obscure way enjoying, along with our- selves, the advent of the rain. The hot ground seemed almost rising to meet it as it fell. This appearance was the result of the steaming vapour, which soon after could be seen creeping like a blue mist along the margin of the wood. How beautiful is the rain ! After the dust and heat, In the broad and fiery street, In the narrow lane, How beautiful is the rain ! During the week there has been an unmistakable return of that intense heat which we had at the end of June. The highest temperature was reached on the twenty-first. At five o'clock in the evening of that day the thermometer in the sun stood at 114° : and the lowest temperature at night was 6o°. The sky was a clear dome in which the sun undisputed reigned the whole day long ; or, if there came clouds at all, they were only the thinnest lines of white and gauze-like cirri, which, even as they were formed, July. 141 began to. vanish away. The air was burned through and through, until it became an almost entirely trans- parent medium, and objects appeared not more than a third of their usual distance. The hills which are ordi- narily invisible, or seen only as a dim, unbroken, and colourless wall, were of a light and airy blue, and re- vealed themselves in unsuspected variety of form ; each fold and hollow having become sharp and clear. In the garden the foxglove bells were quite distinct at a distance of more than a hundred yards. In the afternoon it was too hot even to lie and read — The Tuscan poets on the lawn ; — the lawn, in fact, was burning like the floor of an oven ; but there was one place where it was pos- sible — Immantled in ambrosial dark, To drink the cooler air, and mark The landscape winking through the heat — And this was in the thickest part of the orchard, where a crooked and moss-grown pear-tree stretches its boughs into those of an apple, and both come near to the ground. As I crept out of the fierce sunlight into the shade of this covert, a pair of large thrushes started out of the leaves, and came whirring across my face. Like myself, they had come there to hide from the heat, and I was sorry to disturb them ; but 142 Country Pleasures. a man must reserve to himself the right to lie under his own trees ; and besides I wanted to share the re- treat with them in a friendly way, and not to drive them out. I suppose they found no other place suit them so well, for they came back cautiously three or four times, flitting from tree to tree, but finding a strange biped still in possession, to my disappoint- ment, they always flew away again. The bees being bolder, or less observant, kept on buzzing round my head ; and I had occupation enough in watching their motions, and in observing the changes on the grass, as the leaves were gently moved by some faint breeze. Now and then there would also come past the eye a delicate seed of dandelion, floating along like a fairy parachute. When the sun got lower, I went round to the pond. There was now a little breeze— at least in this place —and the beech, under which I was sitting, seemed to make an effort, each now and then, to bring the tip of its longest bough into contact with the water. The pigeons, attracted by the coolness, were sweeping, in a very unusual manner, backward and forward over the pond. They got as near as they could, but were afraid to touch the water. At length one of them, after many attempts and much dexterous flying, managed to give his legs a bath, drawing them July. 143 through the water as he darted along. He was evidently proud of the feat, and perhaps none the less because the other birds, though they often tried, were unable to accomplish the same thing. During this hot weather the ducks seemed to have a fine time of it. They were on the pond all day : and, I should think, for most of the night. Generally they were occupied in swimming quietly round the shady edge, and in catching certain flies which are to be found in the interstices of an old brick embank- ment : but occasionally they varied the monotony of this proceeding by turning up their tails and bobbing under the water in that ungraceful and laughable fashion which is one of their peculiarities. We have had much amusement lately in watching a young brood of ducklings which have been hatched by an old and very large Dorking hen. Of course the .young ones got on the pond, and the hen was in a dilemma. She could not join them, and she could neither coax nor frighten them off again ; and so, while they went skimming about like little balls of down, she was reduced to following them round the edge, making her way through the bushes and over the stones as well as she could. Once I paw her, in a fit of desperation, dash on to the water after them, neck or nothing. I ran for a plank to rescue her ; 144 Country Pleasures. but before I could get back she had managed, half swimming half flying, to regain the bank, although in a sadly wet and draggled condition. When six o'clock in the evening came, nature and habit were generally too much for her. After watching sedulously all the day, she would then turn sorrowfully away, and make for her perch in the hen-house, leaving the young pro- digals to continue their vagaries alone, and wondering, no doubt, why she should have been cursed with such an incomprehensible and erratic brood. These young ducks were evidently of a sportive turn, and seemed to have a sense of humour, for one evening I found that the half-dozen of them had got on to two small strips of wood which were being driven by the wind up and down the pond. The thing was inimitably grotesque. They jumped into the water and scram- bled back again ; they ran round the edges of their rafts ; they erected their bodies so that their two little, budding wings looked like arms ; they jostled each other about ; and, altogether, behaved just as I have seen my boys do when bathing in the same pond. But I must bring my record of this hot day to a close, and I may as well finish among the birds. A little after midnight, when the half moon was rising, I could see the outline of the pea-hen as she perched on the highest point of one of the highest gables July. 145 about the house. I was startled at first, for she was perfectly still, and looked like a gothic finial carved in stone. She is a wise bird, and had made her roost where any cooling wind which might happen to be abroad would be sure to reach her. XXIX.— THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN. Ju'y 31- In a quaint little book called The Household of Sir Thomas More, there is a passage on flowers and gardens which I must venture to quote in full. I do this because, in the first place, it happens to hint at the kind of garden which I myself most affect ; and second, because it sets forth so well that old feeling with regard to flowers — fond, credulous, superstitious perhaps — which, although in these modern days we cannot pretend to entertain it ourselves, we are most of us pleased to hear of in our ancestors. The truth is I have been seeking opportunity to make this quotation, and I imagine the reader will thank me for making it : -- ' Landing at Fulham, we had a brave Ramble thro' the Meadows. Erasmus, noting the poor Chil- dren a-gathering the Dandelion and Milk-thistle for the Herb-market, was avised to speak of forayn 146 Country Pleasures. Herbes and theire Uses, bothe for Food and Me- dicine. ' " For me," says Father, " there is manie a Plant I entertayn in my Garden and Paddock which the Fastidious woulde cast forthe. I like to teache my Children the Uses of common Things — to know, for Instance, the Uses of the Flowers and Weeds that grow in our Fields and Hedges. Manie a poor Knave's Pottage woulde be improved, if he were skilled in the Properties of the Burdock and Purple Orchis, Lady's-smock, Brook-lime, and Old Man's Pepper. The Roots of Wild Succory and Water Arrow-head mighte agreeablie change his Lenten Diet ; and Glasswort afford him a Pickle for his Mouthfulle of Salt-meat. Then, there are Cresses and Wood-sorrel to his Breakfast, and Salep for his hot evening Mess. For his Medicine, there is Herb- twopence, that will cure a hundred Ills ; Camomile, to lull a raging Tooth ; and the Juice of Buttercup to cleare his Head by sneezing. Vervain cureth Ague ; and Crowfoot affords the leaste painfulle of Blisters. St. Anthony Turnip is an Emetic ; Goose- grass sweetens the blood; Wood-ruffe is good for the Liver ; and Bindweed hath nigh as much Virtue as the forayn Scammony. Pimpernel promoteth Laughter ; and Poppy, Sleep ; Thyme giveth pleasant July. 147 dreams ; and an Ashen Branch drives evil Spirits from- the Pillow. As for Rosemarie, I let it run alle over my Garden Walls, not onlie because my Bees love it, but because 'tis the Herb sacred to Remem- brance, and, therefore, to Friendship, whence a Sprig of it hath a dumb Language that maketh it the chosen Emblem at our Funeral Wakes, and in our Buriall Grounds. Howbeit, I am a Schoolboy prat- ing in Presence of his Master, for here is John Clement at my Elbow, who is the best Botanist and Herbalist of us all." ' ' Manie a Plant which the Fastidious woulde cast forthe ' — that is the point. We are too apt to judge of flowers, as we do of men, by their great names, or by some exterior and vulgar quality; or we like them because they are the fashion, and not by virtue of their own intrinsic sweetness and beauty. I have no wish to depreciate the splendid and ingenious produc- tions of the modern florist, or to deny that a trim garden is a source of pleasure to me ; but I like the old-fashioned flowers best, and ' a careless order'd garden,' in which even what we are pleased to call ' weeds ' may be allowed to grow without breaking the harmony of the place, is what I care for most. It is said that a garden should always be considered simply and wholly as a work of art, and should not L 2 148 Country Pleasures. be made to look like nature. That is true enough. Nothing, indeed, can be in worse taste than the land- scape-gardener's imitations of nature. But there is another plan. If your garden be large enough you can let nature have its own way in certain parts of it. This takes time, but the result is eminently delightful. For the most part you have only to stand aside and watch. If anything at all be done" it should only be a little judicious pruning — accomplished in such a way that it need not be observed — and the blending by unobtrusive gradations of the artificial with the natural. I well remember how skilfully this was done in that ' careless order'd garden ' of the present laureate, at Freshwater, in the Isle of Wight, where — Groves of pine on either hand, To break the blast of winter, stand ; And farther on, the hoary Channel Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand. And, curiously enough, the only other garden which I invariably think of in this connection is that of Tennyson's predecessor. However it may be to-day, I know that thirty years ago that which struck me most at Rydal Mount, and which appeared to me its greatest charm, was this union of the garden and the wilderness. You passed almost imperceptibly from the trim parterre to the noble wood ; and from the July. 149 narrow, greefl vista to that wide sweep of lake and mountain which made up one of the finest landscapes in England. Nor could youdoubt that this -unusual combination was largely the result of the poet's own care and arrangement. He had the faculty for such work. Mr. Justice Coleridge, speaking of him in 1836, said : ' Wordsworth combined, beyond any man with whom I ever met, the unsophisticated delight in the beauties of nature with a somewhat artistic skill in developing the sources and conditions of them. . '. . His own little grounds afforded a beautiful specimen of his skill in this latter respect ; and it was curious to see how he had imparted the same faculty in some measure to his gardener.' We need not therefore be so much afraid of weeds in the garden. Only give them their own province. We shall then soon learn how much may be gained by simply letting things alone. Here, for instance, is a remote path where I often come and sit. Behind a rude wooden seat there is a stony bank, which is now covered with wild and luxuriant vegetation. There is the curious horsetail, looking like a miniature forest of pines ; some sword-like leaves of the iris ; a low bush of holly ; a patch of green moss ; some bright tufts of clover ; a few rushes, and, best of all, the great leaves of the coltsfoot, perfect in form and 150 Country Pleasures. although so common, delicately soft in colour. Observe how the green turns to a shade of purple where the veins run into the stem ; and how beautiful is the white colour on the under side of the leaf. On this rough and uncultured bank there is loveliness enough for many a long visit. And then if I walk towards the wood I find the path soft and green even in this dry weather ; and all around are wild flowers and plants despised by some but beautiful enough to me. The white-rayed chrysanthemum ; the loose- strife ; the little bird's-foot ; the yellow vetchling ; the ranunculus in many varieties ; the lesser willow- herb, the opened capsules of which are now thickly covered with downy seeds; that great willow-herb, which children call ' apple-pie ' ; tall purple thistles, ragged and weird in outline ; many grasses, green and silvery grey, each one of which is a study in itself; and, most conspicuous of all, the great docks and sorrels, the very pictures of rude and vigorous life, and yet not ungraceful, crowned, as they now are, with their reddish-brown spikes of bloom. It needs only one ray of sunset to transform these into mag- nificent flowers. By this time I have got round to the old English flower-bed, where only perennials with an ancient ancestry are allowed to grow. Here there is always July. 151 delight ; and I should be sorry to exchange its sweet flowers for any number of cartloads of scentless bed- . ding-plants, mechanically arranged and ribbon-bor- dered. This bed is from fifty to sixty yards long, and three or four yards in width. A thorn hedge divides it from the orchard. In spring the apple-bloom hangs Over, and now we see in the background the apples themselves. The plants still in flower are the dark blue monkshood, which is seven feet high ; the spiked- veronica ; the meadow-sweet or queen-of-the-meadow ; the lady's-mantle, and the evening-primrose. This last may be regarded as the characteristic plant of the season. The flowers open about seven o'clock, and, as the twilight deepens, they gleam like pale lamps and harmonise wonderfully with the colour of the sky. On this bed I read the history of the year. Here were the first snowdrops; here came the crocuses, the daffodils, the blue gentians, the columbines, the great globed peonies, and last the lilies and the roses. Autumn now draws on apace. The brownest trees are the beech and the sycamore ; the greenest are the ash, the willow, and the brave elder. On the wall of the house the fragrant jessamine — Milton's 'pale jessamine' — has just opened its white, starry flowers, and the scent is wafted through the window in a morning. 152 Country Pleasures. The weather this week has been dry again, but without excessive heat, the wind being generally in the north-west. This wind, probably from its fresh- ness or from some association, always suggests to me the neighbourhood of the sea ; and I remember that before I write my next notes I shall have exchanged the narrow though beautiful limits of the garden for the wild coast of Arran. August. 153 AUGUST. I heard or seemed to hear the chiding Sea Say, Pilgrim, why so late and slow to come ? Am I not always here, thy summer home ? Is not my voice thy music, morn and eve ? My breath thy healthful climate in the heats, My touch thy antidote, my bay thy bath ? Was ever building like my terraces ? Was ever couch magnificent as mine ? Lie on the warm rock-ledges, and there learn A little hut suffices like a town. Ralph Waldo Emerson, Sca-Shorc. XXX.-- ON THE COAST OF ARRAN : WILD FLOWERS AND THE FIRST ASPECT. Corrie : August 6. This morning has brought round a not unwelcome change in the weather. During the night there has been much heavy rain, coming not before it was wanted on the burnt pastures and the dusty roads. There must have been wind also, for very early the sea was what the fisher-folk call ' heavy,' and the waves were flinging about and breaking themselves to pieces on the rocks as if they still felt the agony of some trouble which itself had passed away. Now [54 Country Pleasures. the water is calmer, and is only weltering about in a lazy and exhausted manner. There is a light wind from the south-east ; and though the sky is all grey and clouded, we feel that before long there will be sunshine abroad again. It is just the morning for rest. How far away, how alien to all that we see, seems now to us the ' fitful fever,' and turmoil of life ! We are trying to persuade ourselves that idleness is a virtue, and have almost succeeded. And why should we go hurrying up and down ? The sea is before us ; the mountains are behind ; what more do we need ? Why, even, should we succumb to the desire to take ship and sail away farther and farther into the wild North ? It is surely enough to be here. One of the first things one has to do when absent on a long vacation is to find a point of pleasant con- tact between the old home and the new. Life loses half its charm to me when it is robbed of that quality which we call continuity. To-day is but a poor thing if it be not at once dependent upon yesterday, and contributory to to-morrow. As Nature is said, from the scientific side, to abhor a vacuum, so from the aesthetic side she revolts more than at anything else against any violent breach of continuity. The hiatus is that which she can least of all endure. It was August. 155 this feeling, no doubt, which lay at the root of the poet's desire — And I could wish my days to be Bound each to each by natural piety. Be the bond what it may — whether 'natural piety,' or some other bond — those days are certainly the happiest which are ' bound each to each,' and that life is the most undesirable which is made up of iso- lated and incongruous sections. And this point of contact we find chiefly in the wild-flowers. Many things here are more beautiful than at home ; — The sunshine in the happy glens is fair, And by the sea, and in the brakes. The grass is cool, the sea-side air Buoyant and fresh, the mountain-flowers More virginal and sweet than ours. They may be sweeter, but they are none the less the same. In the thicket behind the garden here the wild bramble trails its prickly stem and its white flowers up and down, just as it is doing now in the thorn-hedge above the foxglove bed in our own garden far away ; and as we ascend the lower and pastoral slopes of the mountain, we see all our old favourites — the brilliant dandelion ; the little red- tipped bird's-foot ; the delicate eye-bright ; the blue campanula swinging its airily hung bells in every 156 Country Pleasures. faint breeze ; and the daisy, with its yellow disk and its white rays reduced to one-fourth their usual size, but brighter than ever — a perfect diamond in the green pasture. I think I notice that the higher we climb, the smaller, and at the same time the more vivid in colour, do all the flowers become. And then in the hedges there are herb-robert, and meadow- sweet, and yarrow, and willow-herb, and the white convolvulus, of which in the garden at home we have a hundred times too much, gadding up and down as it does in all places where it has never been asked to grow. Those who think of these northerly shores as being sterile would wonder to find so many flowers quite close to the sea. At the edge of a wood only a few yards from the water, and where the salt spray itself must often fall, there are diminutive rose-bushes now covered with ripe berries ; the wild chrysan- themum ; the purple vetch ; the woodruff, tiny in size, but sweet as ever ; and even the dainty forget- me-not ; while the woodbine festoons the trees, climbing up them to a height of twenty feet. There is one other connecting link which I must not omit to mention. The last bird which we saw on the lawn at home was the merry little pied-wagtail ; and here, after the gulls, I find him, to my surprise, the most prominent of feathered creatures. How could I help August. 157 taking off my cap to him as to an old friend ? He is very tame, and spends his time hopping busily about among the sea-weed ; or shaking his black-and-white tail on a sandy patch of grass in front of the door, where he comes to look for chance crumbs. The Island of Arran lies in the Estuary of the Clyde between Cantire and the mainland. It is reached by steamer from Glasgow, or by a shorter sea passage from the grimy port of Ardrossan. The former route is circuitous but beautiful ; by the latter you sail straight upon the island and are quickly there. If the day be hazy it will seem, as you come near, only a wild cloud among other clouds ; then the fair green fields take shape and colour ; and, as the vessel comes near the land, you are astounded by the unexpected size and form of the mountains, which seem to rise upon you from behind the shores. If the air be clear you see the whole twenty miles' length of the island from a great distance, and at one view — a mass of blue mountains, every rib of which seems sharp and distinct. But best of all is to come upon it in stormy weather. Then, keeping your footing as best you may on the rolling deck of the steamer, and with the rain streaming into your eyes, you look out, as you are told, and when but a few strokes of the paddle-wheel from the shore you see some awful Country Pleasures. thing — black, mighty, grotesque — start out of the mist and lean over, threatening you, as it were, with imminent ruin. It is impossible that anything should look more like an enchanted or demon-haunted island than the usually peaceful Arran does under such an aspect. It is worth while to go many times in order to catch this sight. Wordsworth in one of his sonnets has finely sketched the island as seen from a steam- boat in the Firth of Clyde : — Arran ! a single-crested Teneriffe, A St. Helena next — in shape and hue, Varying her crowded peaks and ridges blue ; Who but must covet a cloud-seat, or skiff Built for the air, or winged Hippogriff ? That he might fly, where no one could pursue, From this dull Monster and her sooty crew; And, as a God, light on the topmost cliff. Impotent wish ! which reason would despise If the mind knew no union of extremes, No natural bond between the boldest schemes Ambition frames, and heart-humilities. Beneath stern mountains many a soft vale lies, And lofty springs give birth to lowly streams. These wonderful 'peaks and ridges,' which are chiefly in the northern half of the island, are quite unique. They do not owe their attractiveness to their great height, for Goatfell, the loftiest, is only 2,866 feet, but to their extraordinary form. Few peaks are more angular, eccentric, or precipitous : many of them August. 159 are like huge cliffs rather than mountains. They are full of surprises ; and the sky-line of their summits is infinitely varied, from the round bastion of Am Binnein to the toothed edge of Caistael-Ab- hael and the sharp nipple of Cioch-na-h'oighe or the Maiden's Breast. XXX1.—CORRIE AND GLEN-SANNOX. Corrie : August 13. On the eastern coast of Arran there are two chief ports of landing — Brodick and Lamlash. At these places there are piers at which the steamers touch. Farther south, and beyond Lamlash, is Whiting Bay : to the north of Brodick is Corrie. Here you must come ashore in huge flat-bottomed ferry-boats which pull out when the steamers are seen approaching. If, however, the weather should be very rough, this mode of landing is not available ; and it is better, therefore, especially if you have much luggage, to make for one of the larger places. Our destination being Corrie, we left the steamer at Brodick. The sun was just setting behind the Goatfell range of mountains, and his light fell with a strange effect on the edges of the green waves as they rolled into the small and perfectly rounded bay. The first sight of 160 Country Pleasures. Brodick leaves a very favourable impression. To the left is the soft basin of Glen Cloy ; to the right the wilder and yet beautiful entrance to Glen Rosa, while in the central foreground there are the white houses of the village, and the deep sandy shore on which the boating and the bathing goes on all day long with great persistency. The distance to Corrie is six miles ; but by taking a small lug-sail boat you may cross from one horn of the bay to the other, and so cut off two miles of the circuitous road. By this route you land at an old sandstone pier just under Brodick Castle, the seat of the Duke of Hamilton, who owns the whole of the island with the exception of one or two small estates which have been retained with singular tenacity by a family of the name of Fullarton since the time, it is said, of Robert the Bruce. The present castle, which is a fine building with turrets and battlements and pointed gables, stands on the site of an ancient stronghold which was besieged and taken by Bruce from Edward I. The head of the house of Hamilton, in Queen Mary's time, was James Earl of Arran and Duke of Chatelherault. He was first peer of the Scottish realm, and was made by the Queen lieu- tenant-general in Scotland. It is to him that Scott alludes in his ballad of 'Cadyow Castle'; — August. 161 First of his troop, the chief rode on ; His shouting merry-men throng behind ; The steed of princely Hamilton Was fleeter than the mountain wind. Then speed thee, noble Chatlerault ! Spread to the wind thy banner'd tree I Each warrior bends his Clydesdale bow — Murray is fallen and Scotland free. The four-mile walk to Corrie is one of the pleasantest kind. On one side is the sea, bordered by a narrow strip of green land, covered with ferns and tall flags and many sea-flowers, including the pink and the campion. On the other side there is woodland scenery all the way, and, sometimes, of the finest character. The trees are not small and stunted, as is so often the case near the sea, but rise in noble proportions ; and, as you pass, you are frequently compelled to pause before some vast grove of pine or beech, under which you see the great grey boulders moss-covered, riven sometimes, and strangely over- hanging ; or the unbroken beds of fern stretching away into the green gloom beyond. Now and then a little burn comes down through the thicket with its message from the mountains, which, though unseen, are not far behind. When about a mile from Corrie, by the edge of a stream called the White Water which flows from the side of Goatfell, we notice an 1 62 Country Pleasures. enormous granite boulder, the largest in Arran — much larger, I should think, than the Boulder Stone in Borrowdale. Its weight is estimated at more than two thousand tons. These vast boulders are very common here, and give quite a character to the scenery at many points along the road between Brodick and Glen-Sannox. The hamlet of Corrie is the most primitive of those which may be called frequented places on the island. There is an inn, and a school, and some score of white cottages running along the beach in a single line. One of these is the shop, and the only shop — the store, in fact, where everything is sold that is sold. Here, too, we post our letters and deposit our telegrams, which are then sent by hand to Brodick. In front of some of the cottages there are little gardens walled off from the water. Not much grows in them, I think, for the Scotch are not given to gardening on their own ground ; but the fuchsia and the hydrangea grow large and bloom freely against the houses ; and in a garden behind the particular tenement which we ourselves oc- cupy there are a few roses, nasturtiums, and geraniums, and a background of birch and willow and mountain- ash, the latter being covered just now with its bright red berries. Above the village is a steep green slope, part being pasture-land and part being covered with August. 163 low wood. In these upland fields the cattle graze and the children play all day long ; and at night and morning groups of bare-legged lads and lasses may be seen winding down with milk from the farms. This green foreland is broken in places by tiny gorges, down each of which comes a little stream. In these places, on certain days of the week, may be seen the familiar picture of the Highland Washing — the fire kindled in the open air, the steaming pot, and the wide tub in which the clothes are trodden with naked feet. Coming down to the sea we find a line of rocks richly tinted — limestone and sandstone, white and grey, pink and brown — upon which the water, never muddy, breaks at all stages of the tide. In one place some narrow spits of rock run out into the sea ; and here there is a little creek into which the ferry-boat comes from the steamers. The life of Corrie centres upon this point. It is her pier, her market-place, her forum, her promenade. When the steamer arrives, all Corrie is out upon these white rocks, from the tall kilted Highlander to the toddling baby ; and finds, as well as it can, standing room on the slippery ledges. Here, too, the fishermen and boatmen are never unrepresented ; and in the evening you may hear the politics and the theology, and the gossip of M 2 164 Country Pleasures. the hamlet turned , over and over: and even after dark the sturdy figures are still there, cut out like black silhouettes against the lighter plane of the sea. The geologists tell us that there is hardly any other place in the world, of similar extent, which offers so much variety in the way of scientific pheno- mena as does this little island of Arran. In scenery, also, it has considerable variety, and its atmospheric changes are both rapid and wonderful. To-night the sky is one of marvellous beauty. In the south there are lurid clouds, which make the Holy-Island, beyond Lamlash, look like a mountain of iron ; in the east the sky is bright and barred with luminous clouds ; while the Ayrshire coast and the Islands of Cumbrae and Bute are coloured with green and gold. The far north, too, is clear ; and there we see the great hills which lie around Loch Fyne and Loch Lomond. If I go back for a day or two I am struck by the ever- changing series of pictures which are presented to me. On Saturday the morning was grey and rainy, the sea shoreless and heaving; but at night there was the most gorgeous moonlight imaginable — a yellow radiance filling the sky and falling in broad bands of silver on the dark waves. Sunday morning was clear and calm ; but in the evening, as we sat in the kirk at Sannox, we heard the wind howling and shaking August. 165 the windows, and we had to walk home in heavy rain. As the night wore on the storm increased, and at mid- night the roar of the sea was awful. The water flew over the shore in sheets, and in the dim moonlight we could see the white waves start for a moment out of the dark, as they broke on the edges of the rocks. A few lines of Swinburne's, indistinct, and yet powerful in their indistinctness, seem to catch for me the spirit of this scene : — A sea that heaves with horror of the night, As maddened by the moon that hangs aghast With strain and torment of the ravening blast, Haggard as hell. Yesterday again, the morning was bright and warm, and after we had emptied our boat of the water which had half filled it in the night, though lying high on the rocks, we pulled about the little creeks and bays under a serene sky ; but before evening it was evident that we were going to have more wind and rain ; and about six o'clock I started for Glen-Sannox. This famous glen, which is the great sight of Corrie, as Glen-Rosa is that of Brodick, is best seen in the twilight and under a stormy sky. The entrance is about two miles from Corrie, and the glen itself is some three miles in length. Great wildness is its characteristic, and yet there is a certain symmetry even in its savage grandeur. Cioch-na-h'oighe and Suidhe- 1 66 Country Pleasures. Fergus stand like great warders on each side, Cior- Mhor, an almost precipitous wall of rock 2,618 feet high, and with a finely varied summit line, fills up the end. As I stand in the mouth of the glen I notice how grand are the lines on Suidhe-Fergus. They are the furrows caused by falling streams in wet weather, and sweep in one bold and simple curve from the ridge to the base. This very much increases the ap- parent height. The colour begins with green, on both sides of the glen, varied by broad and shining slabs of white or blue rock, and darkens gradually till it finishes in the black mass of Cior-Mhor — black all over, except for the mist wreaths and the white torrent by which it is seamed. The wind is from the west, and comes fiercely down the gorge as if it would drive back the intruder; there are now strange sounds also, coming from unseen gullies with an almost human cadence — cries from far away, like the voices in Ossian. It is time to return, for the twilight, though long, ceases suddenly, and I make my way rapidly down towards the sea. Being alone, it was with a sense of relief that I found I had rightly struck the little footbridge by which I must needs cross the torrent ; and that I was now on a good path by which I could find my way even in the dark. Standing on this frail bridge with the night falling round me and August. 167 the loud roar of the river in my ears, that pathetic verse in Logan's ' Braes of Yarrow ' came naturally into my mind : — They sought him east, they sought him west, They sought him all the forest thorough ; They only saw the cloud of night, They only heard the roar of Yarrow. When I got back into the coast-road it was just nine o'clock ; and I took one last shuddering look at the fearful glen, now filled with swirling mist, and dark as midnight, out of which I seemed only to have escaped just in time; but in front of me the full moon was shining on the yellow sands and on the black boats drawn up for the night in Sannox Bay. XXXII.— BY THE SEA. Corrie : August 20. Two Voices are there ; one is of the sea, One of the mountains ; each a mighty Voice. These are the two voices here; nor is either of them ever silent. We may turn from this to that, but in one or the other we find all our life and all our pleasure. ' It is often said that the sea is both monotonous and melancholy, but the longer we remain in its close neighbourhood the less are we disposed to allow that 1 68 Country Pleasures. it is monotonous. Melancholy it may be, as it is fierce or wild or lovely by turns, but it is not monotonous ; rather it is, next to the sky, the most changeful thing we know : and by this I do not mean only the obvious motion and restlessness of the waves, but the more subtle and ever-varying alterna- tion of the whole aspect of the sea. It is usual to suppose that these moods are mainly in the mind of the observer ; but that is not so. The sea, like nature generally, has its own absolute conditions — conditions which prompt and suggest, rather than follow, emotions in the mind of man. To feel all this, however, one must live continuously near the sea : casual acquaintance and fortuitous observation are not enough ; we must be devout in our attention and sympathetically ready to wait upon her in all her changes. We are so contiguous to the sea here that, look- ing through the window as I write, I can see nothing but the wide stretch of waters, just as I should if I were sitting in the cabin of a vessel ; and if I stand at the door I can fling a stone into the fringe of the tide. Crossing the road, one step brings me upon the rocks, and here you may sit all the day long with the sea-breeze blowing round you and the sound of the water ever in your ears. This sound is usually August. i6g resolvable into three elements. There is first the great boom of the waves, the chorus of many waters, far and near, heard in one deep unison ; then there is a noise as of liquid being poured continuously out of one vessel into another — that, I think, is caused by the falling crest of the waves ; and, lastly, there is a low and lisping talk ever going on between the water and the pebbles. On these rocks there is life in many forms. On very warm afternoons the white butter- flies will hover about you, and even venture a little way out to sea. Day after day I have visited a bright yellow dandelion which, emboldened by a tuft of coarse grass, has established itself in a cranny of limestone, and blooms on in spite of the salt water which must often sweep over it. In the pools and tiny basins there are a thousand fairy creatures, whose motions you may watch even as you lie reposing — green and threadlike tentacula issuing and retreating, purple atoms spinning round and round in some strange dance which is the beginning and end of their existence, gorgeous anemones and many a tiny shell, delicately built and cunningly coloured : — Slight, to be crush'd with a tap Of my finger-nail on the sand, Small, but a work divine, Frail, but of force to withstand, Year upon year, the shock 170 Coventry Pleasures. Of cataract seas that snap The three-decker's oaken spine Athwart the ledges of rock. Here, too, one may get the invigorating morning dip, either where the water is cool and deep, or where, more shallow, it breaks green upon the stones. We have often the finest sea when the wind is due north. Then the sky is usually clear and sunny, and the waves roar and thunder on the ledges, curling over only when they are six or eight feet high. Far off the water is purple, nearer it is a deep blue, in- shore it is all green and edged with white foam. When the waves have risen to their greatest height and just before they break, I observe that through the transparent water we have a vision of a strange gulf, and of the great slabs of rock at the bottom, seen rising up and presented as in a mirror. With the wind in the south-east the sky is often covered with clouds, and then the sea is a grey plain stretch- ing away in graduated bands. It is most melancholy under windless rain ; most joyful when there is wind enough and sun enough to make rapid interchange of colour — black, blue, purple, and green — and rapid movement, without the huge and threatening wave. The rainbows have been very frequent during the week. They come quickly, one after the other ; August. 171 and, when the sun is high in the heavens, they fall entirely on the plane of the sea, sometimes just en- circling our little creek ; then they pass farther away; and later on they may be seen with their ends resting on the water while the arch falls on the far-off moun- tains of the opposite shore. One tempestuous night when the moon was low in the south we had a large and vivid lunar rainbow, stretching over a heaving sea in the north. Unlike the solar bow it seemed to glare upon us as a weird symbol of awe and desolation rather than as the sign of reconciliation and peace. With no appearance of the sea, however, have I been more impressed than with that which on a fine morning accompanies the sunrise. Between four and five o'clock the sun climbs out of the mist which usually envelops the Ayrshire line of coast, and throws his beam suddenly upon the water. The scene is marvellously joyous, and the very embodi- ment of gladsome life. The effect of the low and yet brilliant light falling on the waves, as they roll in with an incessant and crosswise motion, is to make each one of them seem as if it danced and laughed at the same time. It must have been to some such scene that .ZEschylus alludes in the often rendered, often adapted line, in the Prometheus : — ' The in- numerable laughter of the waves.' ' The countless 172 Country Pleasures. dimpling of the waves of the deep.' ' Of ocean waves thou smile innumerous ! ' In Milton there is a parallel passage :— Cheer'd with the grateful smell old Ocean smiles. In Byron the resemblance is closer : — There, mildly dimpling, Ocean's cheek Reflects the tints of many a peak Caught by the laughing tides that lave These Edens of the Eastern wave. In one of John Keble's hymns it takes the follow- ing form : — When up some woodland dale we watch The many-twinkling smile of ocean, Or with pleas'd ear bewilder'd catch His chime of restless motion ; Still as the surging waves retire They seem to gasp with strong desire, Such signs of love old Ocean gives, We cannot choose but thinks he lives. The life of Corrie is, of course, coloured much more by the sea than it is by the mountains. There is some quarrying of sandstone, a little on the way towards Brodick ; and there are a few shepherds ; but the men live chiefly by boating and fishing. About half-way through the village there is an old and picturesque stone harbour, lying at the foot of a little cleft in the hill, where limestone was formerly got. Here there are generally to be seen two or August. 173 three trading smacks — the ' Bella,' and the ' Jeannie,' and the ' Zephyr.' They take loads of sand or gravel to Glasgow, and return with any cargo they can get, coming round perhaps, by the Head of Loch Fyne, or the Sound of Mull, or the coast of Cantire, and so making a voyage of about a fortnight. Here too are the fishing boats and the strange looking trestles- some twenty feet in height— on which the fishermen spread out their nets to dry. These trestles give quite a character to the place, especially when they are seen standing out against the last gleam of twilight in the north. People who know Clovelly say that this particular part of Corrie gives them just a slight remembrance of that unique village in the West. The fishermen get sea-trout along the shore ; farther out to sea they find whiting, mackerel, haddock, and gurnet ; for herrings they go to Loch-Ranza, or to Mauchrie Bay, on the west side of Arran. These fisher folk are a curious race and quite half amphibious. They should, at any rate, I think, be included in the marine zoology of the island. They like the water better than the land, and always turn their faces to the sea as a sunflower to the sun. One fine old fellow interests me much. He must be nearly ninety, for his father came to the island and entered 174 Country Pleasures. into the service of the ' third duke back ' one hundred and twenty years ago. From morning till night he hangs about the sea, and is ever looking wistfully over the water, as if he thought some ship might bring back the lost treasures of his youth. In sunny weather he sits basking on the top of the rocks ; in rain and storm he crouches behind them ; but all 'the same, his eyes are ever fixed on the sea. He has had his troubles. Thirty years ago he lost his wife, who was the ' bonniest woman on the island ' ; when he was over sixty he broke his leg, and was lame for years ; and his lad— his ' braw lad '—well, the bitter war, the Crimean war, took him and never sent him back. And yet he is cheery, and looks to the now near and inevitable end with pious hope. Like most Scotchmen of the past generation, he is great in the ' Auld Testament.' He thinks the ' ministers are often a' wrang,' and is confident in his own ability to set them right upon certain crucial points in Scotch theology. My own notion is that most ' ministers ' would find him a grim and tough antagonist to deal with. Finally, I must say of him, that he looks over the comedy of life with a philosophic eye, and has arrived at certain broad and incontestable conclusions. One of his favourite sayings is the following : ' Well, there's a deal o' ingenuity in maun. His Maker's August. 175 work is varra perfect, an a'togither wonderful ; but there's somethin' in oursells, too — somethin' in our- sells ; an' a deal o' ingenuity in maun.' XXXIII.— ON THE MOUNTAIN. Corrie : August 27. I have spoken already of the nearness of the sea ; the hills are equally near. We reach the mountain- foot as easily as we do the sea-margin. Turning by the garden wall we begin to climb at the first step. Not that we are at once scaling the precipitous granite, or ascending the dark and tortuous glen ; but we are immediately on that steep, green foreland, which is literally the foot of the mountain stretched forward into the sea. It is one of the peculiarities of Arran, and especially of the northern section, that the great central peaks are everywhere belted, towards the sea, by this green terrace, which runs along with singular distinctness and regularity at a height of four or five hundred feet. It is said to indicate the ancient level of the water. If that be. so the sea must once have broken upon the sheer granite. Immediately over the village we pause at the gate of a little garden, for which room has been found on the steep hill-side. It belongs to Dugald, the shep- 176 Country Pleasures. herd. Dugald is one of the personages of Corrie. He has a large sheep farm, and we rarely go on to the hills without finding him somewhere about, wander- ing with slow stride and peering up and down, into the thickets and along the hollows of the water courses, looking for his sheep ; or hallooing to his dog away in the distant corrie. He is a kindly and open-hearted creature, gentle as befits his occupation — a ' gentle shepherd ' in fact. He knows all the ferns and plants, and where the rarest are to be found. He will tell you the names of the peaks, direct you to the passes, and show you how to find your way over the ridges out of one wild glen into another. He knows the weather, too; and with a look at the sky all round will apprise you of what is coming. On the beach the prophecies are very wide, and generally resolve themselves into the tolerably safe statement — ' Ah, weel, there may be shooers, but they'll be doin' ye no harm ; just keep ye green, that's a'.' But Dugald is more precise. He will inform you when there will be thunder in the south ; and when you may expect wind from the east ; and when the hill-tops will be clear enough for a long and adventurous climb. For two things he has un- bounded admiration — the great patches of blooming heather, which he says are grander than all the flowers of the South ; and — either with or without the national August. 177 adjunct — the clear, soft, living water of the mountain burns, which he seems almost to worship as he kneels to drink it out of his great rough hands. In his garden here there are balm and mint and other simples ; the myrtle grows in the open air ; and in no month of winter would you fail to find a rose. There are also one or two apple-trees ; and, under a rough shed, there is a good hive of bees. As we leave the garden we see, higher up, a group of women and boys turning over the scanty crop of moorland hay. It is thin, but very sweet both to taste and smell. It is the one grass-crop of the year, and is usually gathered in the month of August, even as it was of old ; for is it not in the ancient ballad that we read — It felle abowght the Lamasse tyde, When husbonds wynn ther haye, The dowghty Dowglasse bowynd hym to ryde, In Inglond to take a praye ? Farther up we reach an old limestone cave, the roof of which is thickly studded with fossils. In the cool crevices there are many beautiful ferns ; and outside, clinging to the rock, there are the wild straw- berry and the raspberry. On both of these the fruit is ripe. The blackberry and the hazel are here also : but the fruit is too green yet for eating. In the re- cesses of the limestone the wild doves build, and in 178 Country Pleasures. the gloaming, on the solitary road between the woods and the sea, we frequently hear their soft and melan- choly cry. As we climb, the birch and the hazel climb with us : but become gradually smaller, though not less beautiful. If we follow the trees we shall find that they always indicate a stream, and where they are thickest there will be water. Here, sitting on a stone, or leaning on a pendent birch, one might linger for hours without weariness listening to the musical tinkle of the water. The trees are low, old, and weird-looking, and their trunks are so thickly covered with moss that as you creep between them they are strangely soft to the touch ; and under the dim, green light look half human in their contortions. The falls, though diminutive, are as lovely as if they were larger : and sometimes you will find a round basin, worn in the rock, quite deep enough for a bath. Wandering with Dugald yesterday morning, we found in one of these pools a poor little lamb drowned. It had been harried by some ill-trained dog, and in its haste to cross the stream had slipped and fallen into the deep water. By the side of these brooks, and among the boulders there is an endless variety of ferns and mosses, and many dainty little flowers. Among the grass we see the leaves of the August. 179 primrose and the hyacinth, and can imagine how- beautiful these nooks must be in the early spring, and while the snow is yet lying on the grim rocks above. We notice that the woods are still very green, the sanguine colours of autumn having scarcely made their appearance. Only on the birch is that splash of yellow just coming, which we saw at home a month ago : and in places here and there, the tall bracken has already turned to red, and makes a fine harmony with the heather. Many of the Scotch painters come to Arran some weeks later than now for the sake of the foliage which they cannot get in Skye and the other more northern islands, where they spend the summer. Having climbed to the height of five hundred feet, we leave the copses behind and come out upon the open ground of the old sea-level. The flowers which gemmed the turf are now gone ; but there is still the heather, and in great profusion the sweet-scented bog- myrtle. Then we reach a tract of green and marshy land where little grows except the desolate-looking cotton-grass. Beyond this is the naked side of Am- Binnein, up which we must begin to climb. To the left we see the Whitewater, a stream which comes down from Goatfell, and which marks the best way for ascending that mountain from Corrie. It seems N 2 180 Country Pleasures. only a white thread from here, for there is not much .water in it now; but sometimes it is broad and deep enough to do wild work. A man was once crossing it near the summit, and the wind snatching off his cap, he tried to regain it, and losing his footing was swept remorselessly to the bottom near the sea — dead long before he rested. Our way is now by the side of a small stream which comes down from the hollow of Am-Binnein, and is simply rock-climbing. At seven hundred feet we can still hear the roar of the waves on the shore below. At twelve hundred feet there is a solitary mountain-ash clinging to the side of a grey boulder and shaking its branches over the abyss like a flag hung out from a lofty turret window. This is the last of the trees. At fifteen hundred feet the sheep are looking over at us from the edge, and we climb up into the wild basin — devil's punch-bowl, of course — which lies just under the circle of bare serrated rocks which form the summit of Am-Binnein. In such a place one would expect to find a tarn : but tarns and lakes are few here, and in this lies the one defect of Arran scenery. It is probably owing to the same thing that the peaks are often too hard and bare. They give us, better than anywhere else, the iron wall and the saw-edge, but they are wanting sometimes in that August. 181 atmospheric softness which is the great charm, for instance, of the Lake-Country. At the same time the nearness of the sea frequently makes up for this, and we see the crags under the finest condition — black and hard when the clouds are dark ; grey, and hard still, when the clouds are white ; soft and purple when under a blue sky ; and most wonderful of all when the blue sky and the dark cloud are mingled — then the colour of the hills is indescribable— deepest blue perhaps. I only know that if a man were to paint it faithfully his canvas would not be believed. At this point we strike to the right ; and, clambering along the great slabs of an almost precipitous wall, come on to the shoulder of Cioch-na-h'oigbe. Here at sixteen hundred feet, we find to our surprise the campanula and another delicate blue flower which is probably one of the saxifrages. At this elevation scarcely anything strikes the ear — All sounds are light As tiny silver bells upon the robes Of hovering silence. We climb still higher into the hollow under Cioch-na-h'oighe ; and are then warned by the set- ting sun that it is time to turn towards the valley. The view is now a glorious one. Behind are the awful crags darkening fast, for the sun is below 1 82 Country Pleasures. them. In front are Bute and the two Cumbraes — golden islands bathed in sunlight ; far away to the left are the hills of Argyle ; and on the right the dark wall of Holy-Island shuts in the view. We descend rapidly, but not without difficulty, to the entrance of Glen-Sannox. We can see, even in the dark, the beautiful burn rolling on its white bed towards the sea : and we pause for a moment at the old graveyard near the shore. A chapel once stood here dedicated to St. Michael, but nothing remains of it now beyond an almost obliterated image of the saint which has been built into the wall of the cemetery. It is a sad and lonely place — sad even when seen at noon, and answers well to that description which Wordsworth has given of ' A Place of Burial in the South of Scotland ' : — Part fenced by man, part by a rugged steep That curbs a foaming brook, a Grave-yard lies ; The hare's best couching-place for fearless sleep ; Which moonlit elves, far seen by credulous eyes, Enter in dance. Of church, or Sabbath ties, No vestige now remains ; yet thither creep Bereft Ones, and in lowly anguish weep Their prayers out to the wind and naked skies. September. 183 SEPTEMBER. When soft September brings again To yonder goise its golden glow, And Snowdon sends its autumn rain To bid thy current livelier flow ; Amid that ashen foliage light When scarlet beads are glittering bright, While alder boughs unchanged are seen In summer livery of green ; When clouds before the cooler breeze Are flying, white and large ; with these Returning so may I return, And find thee changeless, Pont-y-wern. Arthur Hugh Clough, Written on a Bridge. XXXIV.— REMINISCENCES : BEN-GHOIL AND LOCH-RAN Z A. Moston : Sept. 3. Although the hazel and the birch are the most fre- quent trees in Arran, as, if we may judge from the conventional use made of them in Scottish poetry, they probably are in other parts of Scotland, yet the charmed rowan or mountain-ash, as we call it in England, is common enough to make it a feature in the scenery. And so there is a thread of connection, Country Pleasures. if it be but a slender one, between our temporary home by the sea and that to which we have just returned, for almost the first thing which caught my attention in the garden here was the mountain-ash, gay with the bravery of its coral-like berries. I think the clusters are not of so brilliant a scarlet as those which we have left behind in the island woods, but still the tree is the same, and the fancy runs back to a certain nook on the mountain side, where of late I have often stood, knee-deep in fern, by a streamlet which comes down a narrow' gorge, and being myself in shadow, have seen, up in the clear sunlight, the waving branches of a slender rowan, bright red and green, against the white cloud or the smokeless blue of the sky above. Before we begin again our quiet record of country life here, it may be worth while to set forth a few remi- niscences of Arran while they are yet fresh in the mind. To remain long on the Island without attempting the ascent of the highest mountain is a kind of practical heresy which exposes you to constant reproach. It is well, therefore, to have it disposed of as early as possible. It must not be imagined, however, that the task is merely a perfunctory one, for few of our British mountains will better repay the trouble of climbing. Goatfell has two summits. The southern one is 2,866 feet in height, and the northern one 2,628. It stands September. 185 back some two or three miles from the eastern coast, and is between Brodick and Corrie. The name ' Goatfell,' by the way, is a vulgar and unmeaning corruption, and should be discarded. Its real appel- lation is Ben-Ghaoith, ' the Mountain of the Winds ' ; or, more euphoniously, Ben-Ghoil. Sir Walter Scott gives it in the latter form : — The sun, ere yet he sunk behind Ben-Ghoil, ' the Mountain of the Wind,' Gave his grim peaks a greeting kind. The easiest ascent is from Brodick ; but we took the shorter, though more difficult, track which rises from Corrie. It was three in the afternoon when we started. That was a mistake, for the day is then too hot for climbing, and we found it hard work at first. The way lies through the hamlet of High-Corrie — a picturesque gathering of huts up on the hill-side — and then along the Whitewater until that stream — which, lower down, falls through a deep and wooded chasm — has become narrow and shallow enough to be crossed. Here it runs perfectly pellucid over a smooth bed of white stone, and, even under the burning sun, it is as cold as if it flowed from caves of ice. Before you now is the wild hollow, rock-strewn and thick with heather, which lies between Ben-Ghoil and Am- Binnein. To the left is a steep and narrow ridge. 186 Country Pleasures. This must be scaled ; and, as there is no path, you have to clamber from rock to rock and wade breast- high through the heather. Once on the ridge it is easier work, and you see" the long and winding road coming over the moorland from Brodick. But what is this portentous thing which, having reached the end of the ridge, still rises above us ? ' It is the last peak ; and, looked at from below, seems almost in- accessible. A more extraordinary piece of nature- building — a pyramid of huge granite slabs piled wildly one on the top of another — it would be difficult to conceive. A path, however, is found amongst the rocks, and the constant tread of feet has made it tolerably easy. The summit itself is simply a broad and bare platform of rock ; the last, in fact, of the great slabs which build up the north front. As at Snowdon, so here — the ascent up what I should call the outside of the mountain is comparatively common- place ; but the moment you reach the peak and see the inner recesses, a prospect of bewildering beauty breaks upon you. For an instant all the wild peaks and deep glens which seem to run from north and west towards Ben-Ghoil are clear and distinct, and amaze you by their number and their fantastic variety ; but suddenly a mass of white vapour, not wet mist but sun-lighted cloud, rolls and tosses over September. 187 the ridge of Ben-Ghnuis straight up from the sea in the west, and then the scene becomes abnormal and changes every instant, for the purple crags are apparently swimming about in a white flood, and the narrow burn far down in Glen-Rosa looks like a streak of snow on a ridge rather than what it is — a stream in the bottom of a valley. In a little while the mist is gone again, and we are able to take in the whole wide prospect — Arran itself with the sea all around it, and each little headland stretching into the water ; the mainland of Ayrshire ; the Kyles of Bute ; the countless mountains of the north from Ben-Lomond to Ben-More ; the Mull of Cantire ; beyond that, the faint line of Ireland ; and, coming round again to the Estuary, the great rock of Ailsa, its white precipice and soft green summit shining far off in the sun. It was pleasant to sit down in a crevice of the rocks and run over in one's mind that finely sustained sonnet on Ailsa which John Keats wrote in the little inn at Girvan. I remembered, too, having done the same thing thirty years ago, in the early dawn, on the deck of a steamer as, beating up the Clyde, we sailed under the great rock itself. Hearken, thou craggy ocean pyramid ! Give answer from thy voice, the sea-fowl's screams I When were thy shoulders mantled in huge streams ? Country Pleasures. When, from the sun, was thy broad forehead hid ? How long is't since the mighty power bid Thee heave to airy sleep from fathom dreams ? Sleep in the lap of thunder or sun-beams, Or when grey clouds are thy cold cover-lid ? Thou answer'st not, for thou art dead asleep ! Thy life is but two dead eternities — The last in air, the former in the deep ; First with the whales, last with the eagle-skies — Drown'd wast thou till an earthquake made thee steep, Another cannot wake thy giant size. We descended by a shorter way. Instead of taking the ridge again, we clambered down a trap- dyke on the eastern front of the mountain into the hollow under Am-Binnein ; and then, skirting the southern shoulder of that hill, made straight forward into Corrie. The ascent occupied three hours; we remained an hour on the summit, and were two hours in descending, so that we did not reach the shore until nine o'clock. This means that for the last hour there was a good deal of wild plunging, in the un- certain light, over beds of trackless rock and heather, and a final descent into the rqad over the wall of somebody's garden. If you want a long walk from Corrie without mountain climbing, you can either go south to Bro- dick, which is six miles away, or north to Loch-Ranza, which is eight miles. Although the road to Brodick September. 189 is very beautiful, we generally found ourselves turn- ing north, for in that direction there is greater variety ; and, after we had got wind and limb into good order, we could manage the journey of sixteen miles to Loch- Ranza and back in the course of the afternoon and evening. The way runs along the coast as far as the entrance into South Glen-Sannox. At that point it turns inland. Carriages ford the stream, but foot- passengers cross by a little wooden bridge. And here we must needs pause, for the scene is one of great loveliness. The stream is just emerging from the dark glen — the frowning hills are visible — and yet a few yards farther on it will find its way into the sea. The water glides over granite-sand, and I have never anywhere else seen it so clear and glassy. The silver- birch grows thickly on the banks ; and, standing half- way over the bridge, you are in deep shadow, and may watch the brown trout threading its way among the stones. It would be possible at this point to have your bath in the sea, and afterwards to wash your feet in the fresh water. If we were to leave the road here and follow the shore we should come upon some very fine coast scenery — lofty hills, rock-crowned and decked with heather ; dark hanging woods ; beds of tall bracken ; and quiet sandy coves— culminating in a wild scene known as the ' Fallen Rocks,' where at igo Country Pleasures. some time or other a whole mountain-side has come rolling down to the sea in great blocks which are many of them as large as an ordinary cottage. But we continue along the road and enter North Glen- Sannox. Here there was once a considerable village ; but in 1832 about eighty families were ejected by the Duke of Hamilton. It is true they were provided with money and were able to form themselves into a successful colony in New Brunswick ; but there must have been great heart-burning and sorrow at the time, and the feeling has hardly yet entirely dis- appeared. I was told that two brothers only were left behind ; and that one of them, a very old man, the last of his race, was found dead in his hut by a shepherd last winter. North-Sannox is a vale rather than a glen like the famous one which runs south of it ; and although the hills, being less precipitously rocky, are finely clothed with heather, it has a somewhat melancholy aspect. At the height of two hundred feet a tall stone bridge crosses the North-Burn, which is here a deep and noisy torrent. Such streams are often called ' hoarse,' and to this one that term would be rightly applied. The wind, too, sweeps down the valley and adds its mournful note to that of the river. The scene is the very reverse of that at the wooden bridge over the September. igi South-Burn. There one is reminded of those words of Burns — than which there are none more melodious in Scottish verse — Ayr gurgling kiss'd his pebbled shore, O'erhung with wild woods, thick'ning green ; The fragrant birch, and hawthorn hoar, Twin'd am'rous round the raptur'd scene. Here the note is different, and we say : — Now the coarse rushes, to the sweeping breeze, Sigh forth their ancient melodies ! The road at this point begins to climb rapidly, and at seven hundred and fifty feet we reach the summit of the pass, and are on the watershed. For a few yards we see the streams running diverse ways on each side of the road — one east, the other west, and then we descend by sharp curves into Glen- Chalmadale, where the prospect is brightened by a few trees and a tract of grass and corn-land won from the sterile moor. After this the sea comes in sight again, and we drop into the quaint and primitive hamlet of Loch-Ranza, where there is a rough little inn at which homely lodging and very simple fare may be got from a gruff but honest landlord. There we rest awhile and have tea and herrings — the one unfailing dish, unfailing yet not to be despised. Then while the boys have a sail in a skiff on the short arm of the 192 Country Pleasures. sea which is called the Loch, we stroll down to the beach. The place is unique and singularly foreign in its appearance. On a bank of shingle, which the geologists say must be two thousand years old, stands the ruined castle. The date of its erection is un- known ; but in 1380 it was a hunting-tower of the Scottish kings. There was once a convent also, dedicated to St. Bride ; but that is entirely gone. Looking outward is the bay, not a mile in width at its mouth, crowded with fishing smacks — we counted more than a hundred ; inland there are a few white cottages, the short Loch, and a narrow green plain. Then at a distance of not more than a mile and a half, the great mountains rear themselves dark and precipitous. It reminds you of the village of Wast- water, with the sea and the picturesque accessories of a fishing village superadded. The brief description of the place in The Lord of the Isles is worth quotation : — • On fair Loch-Ranza stream'd the early day, Thin wreaths of cottage-smoke are upward curl'd From the lone hamlet, which her inland bay And circling mountains sever from the world. When the sun has got behind the hills we begin our return. A sudden squall of wind springs up — it September. 193 is a common thing here — and we see many of the boats hurrying dexterously round the bank out of the bay into the sheltered Loch. As we climb the hills we look back again and again. The crimson of the sunset is now over the sea, and Cantire beyond is a line of misty gold ; the sea-birds scream, the wind whistles in the trees, and, as the night falls, we feel that Loch-Ranza, though beautiful enough, would be too sad a place to live in. And now we hurry along the ' aspiring road ' ; and, as the darkness deepens, we notice that first the purple of the heather dis- appears, then the green of the grass, and all is brown ; after that the grey boulders are lost, and all is black ; then we see only the white road, running like a clue through the wilderness, and guiding us back over the torrent, hoarser now than ever ; through the dark woods ; past the wild entrance to the South Glen ; and finally along the lonely road by the sea and safely into Corrie once more. Other reminiscences crowd upon me ; but I am constrained to pass them by. Else I would have told of many a pleasant cruise round the Island and up and down the great salt lochs, beautiful under a hot sun and clear sky; but to me more beautiful still under fitful cloud and rain, more fascinating in their tender and dreamy loveliness than any Italian 194 Country Pleasures. landscape or seascape could possibly be. In short, I ask for nothing finer in the shape of natural beauty than that which these northern skies when working at their best are able to produce upon the purple heath, the green turf, the grey rock, and upon that wide mirror of the sea which lies ever beneath them. XXXV. -THE BEGINNING OF A UTUMN. September 10. After an absence of a month one is able to look at old and familiar scenes from a new and perhaps a truer point of sight. For the first day or two wood and water, the meadow side, and the garden walk seemed strangely contracted ; just as, on the con- trary, indoors we appeared to walk through wide and ample rooms, by contrast with the narrow chambers which we had left behind in the North. It is no wonder that in the open air we should feel straitened. Living for so long face to face with the sea, we had become accustomed to large draughts of the purest ether, and had learned to look round upon an almost limitless horizon. In comparing one scene with the other, we were most struck with the quicker fall of night. It seems to come almost an hour earlier than we expect it, and there is just a touch of melancholy September. 195 in our having to turn inside so soon. We are not long, however, in adjusting ourselves to our new surroundings ; the inner thought slowly bringing it- self into harmony with Nature's outward expression. Naturally the first thing is to discover how much is left us of the summer, as we had seen it last in the end of July ; and how much of the peculiar beauty of autumn has already made its appearance. A few white stars of jessamine may still be seen round the upper windows of the house, but there are not enough of them now to send their odour into the rooms ; and on the Old English flower-bed there are yet lingering isolated specimens of monkshood and of the spiked- veronica. Along the walks, too, the evening-primrose here and there may be seen opening its pale chalice in the early twilight. Among the flowers not noticed before we left, there is the perennial snapdragon, with its rose-coloured flowers and crumpled leaf; and the wild convolvulus, which, taking advantage of our absence, has carried itself with marvellous vigour and fecundity up and down the whole garden. Here it makes a shock-head of leaves at the top of some post or pillar ; there it puzzles you by flinging out a streamer from the summit of an alien bush ; in one place it has covered with fresh green, and entirely hidden from view, a mass of decayed docks and 02 196 Country Pleasures. sorrels ; and in another it makes a running spray- pattern along the carpet of moss which lies on a remote path. And in all these places— even on the ground— it displays its fragile flower delicately white, with just a suspicion of green and purple about the veins of the corolla. So much for one of the most arrant and uncontrollable of weeds. Turning to the beds where the more respectable and decently con- ducted flowers are to be found, we see the brilliant asters, in many colours, and the heavy-scented stocks, mingling with the hum-drum geraniums. Here also, in all stray corners, is the demure and sweet little mignonette — everybody's darling — now in fullest bloom and ready to be put in pots for winter's supply. There is, of course, a great change among the trees. The green, where it remains, is more dusky and the tints of red and yellow are gaining rapidly upon the hue of summer. The leaves fall softly as snow, and so lightly that when there is no wind they rest on the evergreens beneath ; and in the walks, when a larger one than usual comes fluttering down, we often mistake it for some brown bird lighting before us. I cannot say that the wood has lost in beauty since the end of July ; to me it has gained, rather, for not only is the colour richer and more varied, but the density of the leafage being reduced September. 10,7 to what it was just between the end of the spring and the beginning of summer, the wonderful struc- ture and articulation of the branches are - revealed ; and so we reach that period of the year when for the second time the trees are seen to the greatest advantage. September therefore is not without its own peculiar charm, and as we feel its beauty gradually growing upon us we acknowledge that our modern poet's address to the month is fully justified : — O come at last, to whom the spring-tide's hope Looked for through blossoms, what hast thou for me ? Green grows the grass upon the dewy slope Beneath the gold-hung, grey-leaved apple-tree Moveless, e'en as the autumn fain would be That shades its sad eyes from the rising sun And weeps at eve because the day is done. We have no complaint this year against the sun ; he has done his summer's work well, and the fruit harvest is beyond the average. The orchard-house has yielded a few peaches, only a very few, for although the blossom was plentiful something later on touched it with blight ; but the vinery is giving us just now its finest clusters in fair quantity. The pears were all gathered a month ago ; the ' Keswick ' apples have been got in and are stored away in the apple-room on layers of straw, but the ' Suffields ' and some other 198 Country Pleasures. sorts are left to ripen on the trees a little longer, as are also the Siberian crabs. These last are thicker than ever, and make as gay an appearance with their bright scarlet as the cherries did earlier in the season. The month so far has been singularly fine, and promises continuance. With the exception of a few drops on the morning of the fifth, there was no rain until yesterday the ninth. The middle of the day has generally been clouded, with the wind south or south- east ; but with the rain there came a change, and the skies since have been clear and blue.' The beauty of morning and evening has been very striking. Last night the temperature, though it had been high in the day, fell to within a few degrees of freezing ; and this morning, which is usually set down as the beginning of autumn, the characteristics of that season were complete. The air was crisp, the sun rose in a grey haze, but the pale blue was felt to be behind it ; the lawn was covered with a heavy dew, pearly and almost as white as hoar frost ; and as one or two blackbirds, long absent, had returned, and were pecking about under the ring of trees, we said to ourselves that we had got back again our — Wet bird-haunted English lawn. In the garden the low sun was painting the shadows September. igg of the leaves, not only on the moist ground, but also on the trunks of the trees themselves ; and there was a bee buzzing about among the nasturtiums. In the evening, looking west, there came a dull crimson light behind the ragged thistles, now covered with white down ; then the broad harvest moon, almost at full, rose slowly through a radiant and yellow mist. And now in the stillness of midnight the garden is filled with the scent of the after-grass, which has just been cut in some adjoining fields ; and the moon, by this time riding clear and high in the heavens, brings to mind that magnificent passage in the Eighth Book of the Iliad : — The stars about the moon Look beautiful, when all the winds are laid, And every height comes out, and jutting peak And valley, and the immeasurable heavens Break open to their highest, and all the stars Shine, and the Shepherd gladdens in his heart. There is nothing in these lines which has special reference to autumn ; and yet somehow they seem to be informed with the spirit of that feeling which is the true note of the season — a solemn and elevated joy, accompanying the fulfilment of hope, and not incompatible with the prospect of inevitable decay. 200 Country Pleasures. XXXV1.—THE WILD WEST WIND. September 18. The halcyon weather of last week has quite de- parted : the stillness and the warmth having given place to days of raw and gusty rain. On the twelfth there were heavy showers in the morning, and many leaves were beaten down ; but during the day the air cleared, and, the wind rising, the sky became an arena through which huge clouds, grandly coloured, chased each other until sunset. The next day was quiet again, and, the dawn being misty, we saw once more that fine autumnal aspect to which I have already alluded. Looking from the window the sky is indistinguishable, the trees appear unusually high, and their foliage is only a vague mass of grey ; then the sun begins to creep in, the mist is slowly dispelled, and gradually we make out the details of the scene. We see that the sycamore and the lime are both of them yellow and bare ; the chestnut is yellow but not bare ; the beech' is brown in patches, but the leaves have not fallen ; the oak is comparatively verdant, and the smooth green acorns may be seen resting in their embossed cups ; the elder, the thorn, the willow, and the ash are also green. The last-mentioned tree has lost many of its leaves : they fall even before they September. 201 fade, and come down not singly but still clinging to the twigs. The elm is the thinnest of all ; the leaves of the mountain-ash are turning to a deep purple ; and the laburnum is thickly covered with brown seed- pods, hanging with something of that grace which marked the summer flower. While we have been carefully looking at these trees in detail, the golden light of sunrise has slowly invaded them, and at last the blue sky appears behind. On the next day the rain and wind began and increased until the evening of the fifteenth, by which time there was a wrecking storm abroad. The leaves were whirled into the air higher than the birds fly, and more of them fell in an hour than' in all the previous days of the month. An enormous mass of vapour came sweeping up from the west, and got lower and lower until it seemed to be dragging itself through the tree-tops, and we could see the fringes of it spinning and twisting with strange velocity like- Hair uplifted from the head Of some fierce Msenad . . . The locks of the approaching storm. Then the rain came, not in drops but in broad sheets slanting one over the other ; and in a few minutes the lanes were brooks, and the brooks were swollen to rivers. The ducks on the pond were like boats in 202 Country Pleasures. distress, their feathers blown all the wrong way; and up in the air we could see the pigeons fighting hard to get home. As the darkness fell it was grand to hear the vast music of the wind swelling and falling in the wood — a roaring bass, as it seemed to me, among the tree trunks — a shrieking treble up in the higher branches. It was indeed that Wild West Wind to which Shelley addressed one of his finest and most impassioned odes. Conceived and chiefly written, as he tells us, in a wood that skirts the Arno, near Florence, and during a violent tempest, it seems to embody in its measure — the majestic and unbroken Terza Rima — something of that streaming rush which characterises this wind more than any other: — O wild West Wind, thou breath of Autumn's being, Thou, from whose unseen presence the leaves dead Are driven, like ghosts from an enchanter fleeing, Yellow, and black, and pale, and hectic red, Pestilence-stricken multitudes : O thou, Who chariotest to their dark wintry bed The winged seeds, where they lie cold and low, Each like a corpse within its grave, until Thine azure sister of the spring shall blow Her clarion o'er the dreaming earth, and fill (Driving sweet buds like flocks to feed in air) With living hues and odours plain and hill : Wild Spirit, which art moving everywhere ; Destroyer and preserver ; hear, oh hear ! September. 203 I have quoted only the first sonnet-stanza ; but the last, beginning — Make me thy lyre, even as the forest is : What if my leaves are falling like its own ! — rises to the highest pitch, and in lyric impetuosity is equal to anything that Shelley ever wrote. The storm continued all night and filled our dreams with disaster. We saw the tall elms and the ivy-covered oak lifted by the roots, and all the shrubs flying through the air like wisps of straw. In the morning we could scarcely see the grass outside for brown leaves — those in Vallombrosa could hardly have been thicker — and there were dead leaves, too, in the hall and in corners of the rooms, the fiendish wind having driven them down the chimneys and under the doors. In the garden many small branches, carrying their fruit, had been broken from the apple- trees, and the crabs from the Siberians were thick on the ground. But the saddest sight to me was that of the leaves sodden with water. Your ruddy leaf, curled and dry, fluttering along in the sun, is not an unpleasant object ; there is even about it a fantastic cheerfulness as of lightsome old age ; but the same leaf laid flat on the path by the pitiless rain, and trampled upon by miry feet, is a lost and hopeless thing which a man hardly cares to look at in those 204 Country Pleasures. mournful hours when existence itself threatens to become an insupportable burden. For the more cheerful side of autumnal life we are indebted to the birds. Every day now they be- come more familiar and more habitually frequent in their visits near the house. Two or three light- coloured throstles are often about, but the most regular are a very jolly couple of blackbirds, fat and well-to-do, as becomes them after so good a fruit season. They have both got their new plumage. The female is dark brown, but the male is black and shining, as Bottom sings in A Midsummer Night's Dream : — The ousel cock so black of hue With orange -tawny bill, The throstle with his note so true, The wren with little quill. The robin, however, pleases me most. The other morning he was picking up his breakfast of ' uncon- sidered trifles ' at the farther side of the lawn ; and, seeing me at the window, he came boldly across, without circumlocution, and assumed his old perch on the rhododendron bush beneath, as though he would have said : ' I retain my rights, you see, in all that crumb-pasturage which was mine last winter ; and by-and-by I shall claim it again in full.' When September. 205 he turned up his head, and I saw his bright little eye beaming upon me for a moment, I could not help longing to break the barrier between us, so that I might have speech with him, and ask him how he had fared all through the leafy summer ; and if his wife had been kind or not ; and how his family had prospered ; and whether he was looking forward as bravely as ever to the rigours of that winter which, with its darkness and its frost, would soon fall upon both of us together. XXXVIL— A UTUMN ON THE WELSH HILLS. Capel Curig : Sept. 23. No year of ours would be complete without at least a transient glimpse of the Welsh Hills. The habit, so long continued, seems almost to have gained the force of a duty, and so it happens that some time or other, but usually late in the autumn, or even when the first snows have fallen, we find ourselves once more among the old haunts and wandering with as much delight as ever in places familiar to us now for a good deal more than half a life. Coleridge has somewhere told us that the truest test which we can apply to a work of the highest imagination is that, as we read, we go back again and again even with 2o6 Country Pleasures. greater pleasure than we go forward. It is the' same with natural landscape. If it be of the finest charac- ter — of that sort, in fact, which appeals to the ima- gination — each visit will only increase its beauty or unfold some new charm. As soon as you find yourself drawing near to the ancient and ever-welcome city of Chester the journey becomes a picture. A little farther on it is even exhilarating, because it consists of a series of disentanglements. As the train rolls along the coast- line it seems each moment to reach a wider prospect and a purer air ; you feel that, one after another, you are getting rid of all mean and smoky environments ; and when at length you have left behind that melan- choly and sorely-outraged castle at Flint, and are even well past the dubious precincts of Rhyl, your enjoy- ment is without stint ; for on the one hand there are the waves rolling over the wide sands of Colwyn ; and on the other many a little dell or green circle under the trees by the roadside where one might ex- pect to see a gipsy encampment ; or, better still, there are those narrow valleys, not yet backed by the higher mountains, to which I always think the term ' romantic ' is rightly applied — places which remind you of old cuts by Albert Durer, in which the chief features are a fiat plain, neither long nor wide, with a September. 207 few scattered houses or a castle upon it, and in the background low hills and an overhanging crag. The night was drawing on when we walked through the streets of Carnarvon. I remember when the little town was a dreamy and grass-grown place ; but that was when the traveller came only by coach from Bangor or by the infrequent boat alorigthe Straits of Menai : now the railway fumes and fusses in its very midst, and the bustle in the market is in strange contrast with the grey and silent castle. By the time we passed Llanbeblig it was quite dark, and we could only just make out those curious battlements on the old church tower. The road runs up and down, over the open moor, through patches of thick wood, and past the straggling and dimly-lighted villages. Away to the right we could discern the familiar form of Yr Eifl, the mountain whose triple peaks look down on the strange valley of Vortigern ; and in front there were the hills which buttress Snowdon. Although seaward the sky was clear and starry, looking inland we could see, stretching from peak to peak, those vast reaches of dark cumuli which are so peculiar to mountain regions and which give such character to the landscape. At Waenfawr there is a station on one of those narrow-gauge railways which are becom- ing so common in Wales, and we waited for a train. 208 Country Pleasures. It was a curiously foreign sight — the little wooden hut with its one pale lamp and its one attendant — ticket-collector, porter, and station-master combined. By-and-by we see the toy-engine coming out of the dark and hear the high-pitched cymraeg of women arriving from the market and of children who have come to meet them. In a minute or two the place is dark and lonely again ; and, having got into one of the tiny cars, we rattle over dashing streams and under the close black mountains, past Bettws- Garmon and on to the terminus at the Snowdon Ranger. Here finding the cosy little inn crammed with sportsmen, we are compelled to push on to Beddgelert, some five miles farther, which we reach about ten o'clock. Looking out the next morning we find Beddgelert as beautiful as ever. The sky is grey and rainy, but that takes nothing from the loveliness of the peaceful hollow in which the village lies. The river is still clear to look at and cheerful to listen to as in the old days. How well we remember being awoke by its sound on the first morning of our visit here long ago ! And the trees —are any more graceful than those which fringe the stream and fill up the little space between it and the mountains ? In the shal- lows of the river and under the pendent grass of the September. 209 bank we see our old friend the pied-wagtail disporting himself ; and in the garden behind the hotel the robins are both bold and jubilant. When we start for the base of Snowdon the sky is looking still more rainy ; but who would ask for finer colour than that which lies on Moel-Hebog — purple, grey, and silvery green ? Looking back we see the narrow gate of Aberglaslyn, dark and wild ; and beyond it a gleam of sunlight towards the sea at Traeth-Mawr. After retracing our steps for about two miles along the road traversed on the previous night, we turn aside through the meadows towards the farmofFfridd-Uchaf. By this time the rain has begun, and we take shelter in the little farm. As usual, there is a grave and yet a kindly welcome, and a seat for us on the snug oak settle in the nook underneath the broad chimney. An iron pot swinging over the fire contains the frugal midday meal. The household consists of a man and his wife, their two boys, and three or four dogs, one of which is a fine foxhound. What a lonely and self-contained life these people lead ; a life, too, in which gloom and hardship must largely prevail ! It is no wonder that their faces should be so sad and impassive, and that their high tones of voice, half querulous, half mournful, should sound to a stranger more like the echo of speech than 2io Country Pleasures. speech itself. The roof of the principal room, or kitchen, showed, as is common, the bare and smoke- dried rafters; and it was curious to note how these were used for holding, by shelf and nail and cord, all the necessaries of the house. There was bacon, and dried mutton, and salt beef ; balls of home-spun wool ; the skin-bag for curdling milk ; the shears for sheep- shearing ; sticks, hats, jugs, cooking utensils and bundles of rush-pith for making the winter candles. Finding that the rain was not likely to cease, we took some refreshment with the good people and started again upon our journey. Our object was to cross over the highest peak of Snowdon ; and from the farm we made straight up the mountain by one of the spurs called Llechog. The streams were all roaring in flood, and the ground marshy and barren ; the only flowers surviving were the scabious and the little tormentil ; but there was beauty of a wild kind when the wet rocks gleamed in the pale sunlight which sometimes wandered down through the rain. As we climbed we saw beneath us Llyn Cwellyn and Llyn-y-Gader by the Beddgelert road ; and higher still the entrance to the Vale of Nantlle, and the two lakes beyond ; but after that all the distant view was lost in the mist, which now, at the height of fifteen hundred feet, gathered closely round us, and made our journey merely a passage from one contracted circle to another. September. 211 Although we ceased to have any wide prospect, it was not long before we obtained one which was of the rarest sublimity. The track lies close by the edge of Cwm-y-Clogwyn, and it is hardly possible to conceive precipices more awful than these are on a wild and stormy day. Standing on the grassy edge you see both below and above you the bare, black rocks — hideously black— shining in the rain with a treacherous gleam and only one or two degrees from the sheer perpendicular. Here and there some jagged points seem to invite you to self-martyrdom, and the eye follows them with horror for some two or three hundred feet and then all is lost in boiling mist, the bottom of the Cwm, with its three or four tarns, being quite invisible. Such a place is the very Edge of Death, and realises for you the dreadful side of mountain scenery. It is no wonder that in the ancient time some supernatural Power was supposed to haunt these wild crags and to influence the minds of those who remained long amongst them ; nor even yet is that influence wholly lost, for in a certain sense they still convey the inspiration which is akin to terror : — They fabled not, thy sons, who told Of the dread power, enshrined Within thy cloudy mantle's fold And on thy rushing wind I P 2 212 Country Pleasures. It shadow'd o'er thy silent height, It fill'd thy chainless air, Deep thoughts of majesty and might For ever breathing there. Nor hath it fled 1 the awful spell Yet holds unbroken sway, As when on that wild rock it fell Where Merddin Emrys lay ! From this point there is some steep zigzag climb- ing along Clawdd-Coch. Then we pass over the fearful-looking ridge of Bwlch-y-Maen and see, at last, hanging above us in the mist, the cairn of stones and the frail huts which crown the last summit. October. 213 OCTOBER. October's gold is dim — the forests rot, The weary rain falls ceaseless — while the day Is wrapped in damp. In mire of village way The hedgerow leaves are stamped ; and, all forgot, The broodless nest sits visible in the thorn. Autumn, among her drooping marigolds Keeps all her garnered sheaves, and empty folds, And dripping orchards — plundered and forlorn. David Gray, In the Shadows. XXXVIII.— AUTUMN ON THE WELSH HILLS (continued). Moston, October 2. It is now quite thirty years since, with a good deal of youthful rashness, and discarding all guides and paths, I climbed straight out of the middle of the Pass of Llanberis and up the precipitous crags to the top of Crib-y-Ddysgyl ; from which I saw, for the first time, the neighbouring peak of Snowdon. It was the only great mountain with which I had then made familiar acquaintance. No doubt there is something in the predispositions of first love ; but, certainly, 214 Country Pleasures. though I have seen many great eminences since, I know of none which, if we take it in all its aspects, is finer than Snowdon. Of course it is not mere height above the sea-level which makes the grandeur of a mountain ; this depends upon many things — the ex- istence of more peaks than one, and the grouping of them ; the abruptness or suddenness of outline ; the contour of the hollows or cwms, and the presence or absence of water ; and above all the depth and angle of the precipices, for upon these will depend, more than upon anything else, the production of the finest aerial effects. The actual summit of Snowdon is not more than some six yards in breadth, and as you climb towards it, over the narrow ridge mentioned in my last Notes, you hardly know whether the awful horn which is seen above you, curving through the mist, should be reckoned as a thing appertaining to the solid earth or to the shifting sky. As we mounted slowly up this final reach we saw the broad-shouldered athlete of our party skipping lightly down towards us like a messenger from the clouds. To him a few hundred feet or a few pounds weight more or less are nothing ; and so, taking sundry bags and satchels with him, he had gone forward to rouse the surly guardian of the huts, and was now descending again to meet us. October. 215 When at length we stepped on to the little plateau of the summit the rain and wind were both so fierce that we were glad to rush under cover for a few minutes ; nor was the bowl of hot tea which we found waiting for us an unwelcome surprise. When we came out again, though the rain was still heavy, the air was clearer. The wind, being from the west, flung the clouds against that side of the mountain, but left the inner or eastern side com- paratively free. There were no far-reaching views, such as we have sometimes seen, over half the Princi- pality and far out to sea ; we had not even that won- derful glimpse into the green bottom of Llanberis ; but there were all the grand precipices which make the peculiarity of the mountain. And what precipices they are ! Down into Cwm-y-Llan, is nineteen hun- dred feet; while the fall into Cwm-glas Llynis nearly sixteen hundred feet at an angle of about seventy degrees. Taking what is called the Capel-Curig descent we turn sharply to the right, leaving the tamer Llanberis path on the left, and rattle along a break-neck track, half torrent, half sliding shale, down to the shore of Glas-Llyn. Standing by this tarn, the waters of which are always singularly green, you are two thousand feet above the sea ; and yet you are sunk into a deep hollow from which there rise 216 Country Pleasures. the three great shoulders or peaks of Snowdon — Crib- y-Ddysgyl, Crib-Goch, and Y-Wyddfa ; and also the long ridge called Lliwedd. The only outlet is a narrow one, and is due east, over Llyn Llydaw and Cwm-Dyli into Nant Gwynant. At this point you first feel the full sublimity of Snowdon. Looking across the wild little tarn the eye, overpowered, slowly finds its way up the vast cliff fifteen hundred feet high, right to the summit of the mountain. I am not alone in thinking that you may wander all over Europe, and find few finer pieces of mountain gran- deur than you have here. Before this great rock we lingered spell-bound, even in the pouring rain ; for surely never before was the grim and solid cliff— a cliff which has its own peculiar story of death to tell — more subtly overwoven with soft and ever-changing mist. After leaving Glas-Llyn we take the high ground under Crib-Goch, and so avoid going down to the margin of Llyn Llydaw. It is a wild walk over bog and rock and stream — the stream ever swelling, for the rain continues, and all round — • The monstrous ledges slope, and spill Their thousand wreaths of dangling water-smoke, That, like a broken purpose, waste in air. But at last we see below us the cheerless little inn at October. 217 Gorphysfa, and are once more on the firm high road, seven hours after leaving it on the other side of the mountain. At Pen-y-Gwryd we turn into the famous, but still primitive, hotel for a few minutes' chat at the kitchen fire with good Mrs. Owen, the motherly hostess. We would gladly have stayed here, but the house, as usual, is full of Oxford men, and we must push on five miles farther to Capel-Curig. The road is wild and lonely. In the gloom, we see on one side the long ridge of Glyder-Fach, and on the other Llyniau-Mymbyr, two small and dreary lakes, now so deeply in shadow that, as we hurry past, we can only make out a narrow strip of water close by the nearer bank. Passing through the silent village of Capel- Curig, we find comfortable quarters, and something more than a professional welcome, from old friends at the Tan-y-Bwlch Hotel. The next day brings a fortunate change in the weather. Even before we rise we feel the sunshine in the room ; and, coming into the open air, we see the ' glorious morning ' Flatter the mountain-tops with sovereign eye, Kissing with golden face the meadows green, Gilding pale streams with heavenly alchemy. The mountains, the meadows, the streams are all 218 Country Pleasures. here ; indeed, if we add the woods, which are not in Shakspere's sonnet, we make up the whole landscape as it presents itself at the door of the Tan-y-Bwlch Hotel. And the landscape from this precise point is one of the most perfect imaginable. If one wanted to plan a gracious surprise, it could not be better done than by bringing a stranger over the flat waste from Pen-y-Gwryd, so that he should see the night fall on the bare and desolate Glyder, and, reaching here after dark, open his eyes in the morning on the alto- gether lovely prospect which lies before us. No transformation could be more complete. We leave behind savage sterility and enter upon a narrow but fertile vale ; we exchange a treeless wilderness for the clustering wood ; the meadows are fair and green ; the river sweeps along, now a smooth stream, now a thundering torrent hemmed in by rocky walls, and over all there is the craggy front and the smooth sloping crest of Moel-Siabod. It is the scene which Clarence Whaite, sitting in these very fields, painted so finely some twenty years ago with Charles Kingsley looking over his shoulder. Here in delightful idleness we lingered all through the long and quiet morning — in the garden watching the bees, leaning over the wooden bridge which spans the stream, or wandering up and down to find old October. 219 nooks and corners of beauty, old points of view ; and, alas, old acquaintances ; but these were nearly all sadly changed or gone for ever. Into one place — the neighbouring inn at Tyn-y-coed — we had not the heart to enter, for the old low-roofed hostel has given place to a brand-new building, and we should not have been able to find the little room where we used to get the sweetest honey in Wales, laid on the table fresh from the comb, and smelling of the heather on the fells above ; and where, in the long autumn nights, sitting by the peat fire, we were first initiated into the mysteries of Welsh by lips which were sweet enough to have made soft and liquid even a harsher language than that of the Cymru. There was, at any rate, in that ' learning ' no ' wearisome bitter- ness.' About noon we started slowly for Bettws-y-coed, and, as we took our last look of the stream flowing through the meadow, we thought of Wordsworth's ' Yarrow Revisited,' and of two stanzas in that poem which, if we substitute ' Llugwy ' for ' Yarrow,' will reproduce with singular exactness the feeling of the hour: — For busy thoughts the Stream flowed on In foaming agitation ; And slept in many a crystal pool For quiet contemplation : 220 Country Pleasures. No public and no private care The freeborn mind enthralling, We made a day of happy hours, Our happy days recalling. And if, as Yarrow, through the woods And down the meadow ranging, Did meet us with unaltered face, Though we were changed and changing ; If, then, some natural shadows spread Our inward prospect over, The soul's deep valley was not slow Its brightness to recover. It would be difficult to find five miles of road better adapted for a leisurely stroll on a blue and sunny day than are those between Capel-Curig and Bettws. We were ever turning round to watch the varying shape of Moel-Siabod ; or lingering to pluck the late campanula, and to gather the blackberries which were thick and ripe in the straggling hedges. And then there was the cataract at Pont-y-Gyfyng, where the mountain-ash hung its red berries over the torrent; and farther on, the great Fall of the Swallow, swollen with the previous day's rain, and looking its very best. After this, crossing the wall, we left the high road and wandered along through the wood, and by the Miner's Bridge, to Bettws. It was a fine thing to end with. Under our feet was a thick carpet made of mosses and green leaves, sorrel and crowfoot October. 2.2.x and ivy ; on the rocks the little herb-robert was still in flower ; in some places the colour of the bracken burned like fke ; the sun brought out the scent of the pines ; and . across the stream the steep unwooded bank was covered with yellow gorse, which, to our surprise, was still in full bloom. How changed is here each spot man makes or fills ! — one might well say on entering the village of Bettws. The foolish and unnecessary intrusion of the railway station and the erection of villa lodging-houses in places from which the slightest sense of fitness would have excluded them, have, indeed, robbed it of more than half its beauty. A mile outside, however, in any direction, there is still the old peace and seclusion ; and, as we go down by the line in the evening, we see that the vale of Llanrwst is yet as lovely as ever, and that all the modern building has not been able to spoil that unrivalled mediaeval picture which is presented by the towers of Conway Castle. XXXIX.— ECHOES OF THE SPRING. October g. The fine still weather which often distinguishes the month of October, has not reached us yet. There 222 Country Pleasures. have been many wet and dreary days ; and sometimes in the morning a cold mist which seemed to bring the winter ominously near. We have had floods of rain also, and frequent high winds. On the last day of September the rainfall was so heavy and sudden, that the pond overflowed its banks before we could open the sluice. Going out after breakfast there was a new scene displayed — a stream two yards wide rushing down the garden where there should have been a dry walk ; and in the dell quite a noisy waterfall. Two days ago there came a violent wind at sunset. Being in the lane after dark I found myself stumbling over branches of trees which had been snapped off, and wading ankle-deep in the drift of leaves. Over- head there was a weird sky — steel-blue but nearly covered with black and tumbling clouds, among which the .moon seemed to wander distractedly, now half-enshrouded, and the next moment totally eclipsed. The general temperature has been exceptionally high, the prevailing wind being from the south ; but notwithstanding we have had our first frost. This came on the second of the month, the thermometer falling to twenty-seven degrees. In the morning the boys boasted that they had contrived to slide on the walks; and, the air being sunny, we saw the October. 223 pigeons fluttering over the white frosted roof of the barn. The high winds have, as might be expected, made great havoc among both leaves and fruit. The trees on which the leaves still hang most thickly are the beech and the oak, the hawthorn, and the elder. The ash, though late to clothe itself, is already compara- tively bare. Of the fruit nothing remains but the Siberian crabs and the elderberries. The crabs fall every night, and in the morning I see the blackbirds feasting upon them ; the geese, too, whenever they can get into the garden by stealth or force of wing, make for the corner where they are chiefly to be found, and gobble them up with much gusto. The fruit of the elder is nearly, but not quite, ripe ; the berries, how- ever, are black, and look very rich, hanging in thick clusters on the purple stalks. Poor John Clare, whose country sketches were always careful and accurate, in his Shepherd's Calendar for October, speaks of the appearance of the elder at a period just a little later than the present : — Wild shines each hedge in autumn's gay parade ; And, where the eldern trees to autumn fade, The glossy berry picturesquely cleaves Its swarthy bunches 'mid the yellow leaves, On which the tootling robin feeds at will, And coy hedge-sparrow stains its little bill ; 224 Country Pleasures. The village dames, as they get ripe and fine, Gather the bunches for their ' eldern wine ' ; Which, bottled up, becomes a rousing charm, To kindle winter's icy bosom warm ; And, with its merry partner, nut-brown beer, Makes up the peasant's Christmas-keeping cheer. I never look at the hardy and much-enduring elder without feeling thankful for all the pleasure which it affords us through so large a space of the year. On January the twenty-third its new leaves were first uncurling ; at the end of April I saw the flower-bud ; by June the twentieth the bushes were covered with the creamy-white blossom which lingered for nearly a month ; at the beginning of September the berries were formed ; and now in October we have them hanging among the leaves, which, in spite of all vicis- situdes, are still fresh and green — greener, in fact, than any other of the deciduous trees; All through the month of September, and so far as we have come in October, there has been going on a curious reproduction in a faint degree of the pheno- mena of spring. Long after the foxgloves were over, and when the once gay spires were turned into gaunt and broken stalks of empty seed-pods, two or three plants broke into bloom. They were not so tall as their predecessors, but they were quite as beautiful. Now that the flowers are fewer in number we note October. 225 them more carefully. What an exquisite and fairy- like thing is the foxglove bell, if we examine it minutely ! The outer lip of the corolla is a light pink ; inside, the colour becomes a deep rose. As you look into it you see that the bottom is delicately spotted with white and brown, and that just at the entrance there are a number of short hairs, which stand erect and glisten like silver ; these are slightly dusted with the pollen which has been left upon them by some departing bee. The four stamens fold curiously together on each side of the style : the anthers are yellow, and are dotted with brown, like a bird's egg. But the most beautiful thing of all is to see how the light comes through the transparent tissue at the remote end of the bell, so that the recess round the seed-vessel is tinged with the softest green. I have mentioned the foxgloves because they were the most conspicuous revival ; but, if we look carefully around, we shall see that all sorts of things are grow- ing as if it were the beginning of the year and not the end. The out-door beds of musk and the plots of willow-herb have had a second blooming. The straw- berries are many of them in flower again ; so are the blue periwinkle and the wild chrysanthemum, not to speak of buttercups and daisies and dandelions. The Q 226 Country Pleasures. currant trees, the gooseberries, the climbing roses, and the syringa are all showing bright points of new leaf- bud. Even the apples, which have only just dropped their fruit, are dimly swelling with fresh life. There is one other vernal sign which must be noted. Nothing is more characteristic of the spring than the loud singing of birds immediately before the de- parture of daylight. The same thing is repeated now. Just when the twilight is deepest I hear the birds break into a chorus of song which, although it is faint and low when compared with what we re- member of the past, is yet cheerful enough if we con- trast it with the scene of decay by which we are at present surrounded. XL.— ASPECTS OF AUTUMN IN THE GARDEN AND THE WOOD. October 16. In the spring of the year we estimate our wealth by the number of our added possessions, in the autumn by the infrequency of our losses : the delight of the earlier season largely consists in the continually fulfilled expectancy of what is new ; the pleasure of the latter lies in a sober retention and enjoyment of what is old. How closely do the periods of man's October. 227 life correspond to those of nature : or, in other words, how exquisitely The external World is fitted to the Mind ! In my last Notes I mentioned some of those flowers which help to brighten the time of decay by their unexpected return : one should also record those which have continued longest with us in consequence of their hardihood. Among the last of these are the campanula, a few flowers of which may still be seen shaking in the breeze ; the marigolds — Shakspere's ' Winking Mary-buds,' — pleasant to look at now when the sunshine is so scarce ; the nasturtiums trailing over the rock-work ; the spiked-veronica on the perennial-bed ; and the white-jasmine flowers which are sparsely scattered among the dark green foliage on the wall. How accurate is Cowper ! Speak- ing of the jasmine, he says — The jasmine, throwing wide her elegant sweets, The deep dark green of whose unvarnish'd leaf Makes more conspicuous, and illumines more The bright profusion of her scattered stars. In the greenhouse the most conspicuous things re- maining are the habrothamnus, with its heavy purple clusters ; the pure-tinted plumbago ; the red-and- white fuchsias ; and the many-coloured geraniums. In the wood there are now both hips and haws on Q2 228 Country Pleasures. the rose-bushes and the thorns. The first are the most plentiful, and are very brilliant — a bright red on the side which has caught the sun, yellow in the shade ; the latter are darker in colour, and although the sparrows can hardly need them yet for food, I observe that they already haunt the trees where the haws are to be found. At no other season of the year do we feel so much as now the presence or absence of a little sunshine. I often notice how even a faint gleam will change the whole sentiment of the landscape. And when we get the sun, how charming the prospect still remains ! From the window I look out in the morn- ing over a little stretch of broken and undulating ground. Many of the trees are thin and bare, but the brown tint of them is by no means unpleasant ; and, as others near are still clothed with leaves, there is a grateful contrast between the clearly-cut articulations of the one and the less definite masses of the other. Nearest to the eye a yellow beech overhangs and mixes its leaves with a dark holly ; and, owing to the rising conformation of the land, the background of the whole picture is green, and a green of the most vivid character, for the autumn has had no effect yet on the grass of the meadows. Returning to the wood, I notice the curious colours of the leaves that October. 229 remain hanging loosely on the two or three dogwood trees which we have growing under the oaks and ashes. The long oval leaf is still green, but is oddly streaked or ribbed with red. This peculiar colour of the dogwood is alluded to in the following passage : — The Lime first fading; and the golden Birch, With bark of silver hue ; the moss-grown Oak, Tenacious of its leaves of russet brown ; The ensanguined Dogwood; and a thousand tints Which Flora, dressed in all her pride of bloom, Could scarcely equal, decorate the groves. Our good friend Felix, the bird-master, who takes much pleasure in these things, was at great pains the other day to bring with him, all the way from Surrey, two hundred miles or more, some considerable branches of dogwood, which were thickly covered with berries. He brought them, as he said, not only for their own beauty, but because they carried with them certain associations, for was it not probable that our drama- tist had the tree in his mind when he gave a name to that fine fellow for a ' sixth and lastly,' Constable Dogberry of the Watch ? The leaves on these specimens were not so much ' ensanguined ', as those on our own trees ; but the berries were of a most beautiful colour and more nearly resembling coral than anything else I have seen. In the North, so far as I 230 Country Pleasures. know, the tree does not bear its fruit ; but in the warm lanes of Surrey it is at present loaded with its pink capsules, and must give to the hedges a rich and peculiar colour. On the south-east side of the house here are some fine trees — fine still, though they have been much finer. Two large brother-elms, with knotted boles that lean towards each other, and some six or eight others — beech, chestnut, and lime — make a thick grove in summer. They are almost leafless now; but if one chooses to open the window at dawn one may hear from their midst the sweetest and most cheery sound which autumn has to give — the clear whistle of the robin. I see him as he sits high up in the trees a small speck — small, yet how full of undaunted life. In the well-known ' Address to Autumn,' by John Keats — one of those pieces of which it may be truly said that they have added, for Englishmen, a perceptible charm to Nature herself — the song of the robin is included as among the salient features of the season. The last stanza is : — Where are the songs of Spring ? Ay, where are they ? Think not of them, thou hast thy music too, While barred clouds bloom the soft-dying day, And touch the stubble-plains with rosy hue ; Then in a wailful choir the small gnats mourn Among the river sallows, borne aloft Or sinking as the light wind lives or dies ; October. 231 And full-grown lambs loud bleat from hilly bourne ; Hedge-crickets sing; and now with treble soft The redbreast whistles from a garden-croft, And gathering swallows twitter in the skies. Besides the trees I have mentioned there is one other — an ancient oak, long dead but standing erect and strong, like a monumental column, in the middle of the lawn. In the morning I can tell the time by its shadow on the grass, and it often catches the last rays of sunset. The upper part of the trunk has been cut away, but it is still forty or fifty feet high, and its girth is about eleven feet. The branches have been lopped and project only two or three yards from the bole. In itself it would be an ungraceful, although a venerable, object ; but at the base there springs a stem of ivy, some fourteen inches in circum- ference ; and from this there runs a countless number of intertwisted twigs and tendrils which cover the whole trunk and festoon the shapeless boughs with thick masses of green leaves. It is, of course, a notable haunt of birds — a kind of Republic or Agape- mone where all sorts meet for chatter and the inter- change of attentions and courtesies. Just now the ivy is covered with its clusters of yellow and green flowers. Their appearance would not attract a care- less observer ; but if we examine them minutely we 232 Country Pleasures. see that they have a rich and honied look, and that Spenser's description is not inapt : — An Arber greene dispred, Framed of wanton Yvie, flouring fayre. The smell of the flowers is like that of thyme ; and I was not surprised one sunny morning to find a whole cloud of bees buzzing around them.- The weather during the week has gradually im- proved, being for the most part fine, though with a lower temperature ; and at night we have been able to get pleasant walks across the open country under the full brilliancy of the Hunters' Moon. Xhl.—THE INDIAN SUMMER. October 24. As Autumn proceeds, we watch anxiously for that season of respite which in America is known as the Indian Summer, and in our own country as the Little Summer of St. Luke — a time of warmth and stillness and soft beauty, in the midst of which we would fain linger. It may be that this stolen period has reached us and passed away since I last wrote. If so, it must have been indeed a very little one. The present weather, at any rate, could not pretend to have the slightest affinity with anything known to us as summer. Yesterday there was thunder, every day October. 233 the rain is frequent and cheerless, the twilight comes early and is soon gone, and at that time there is often a cold and windy look about the sky which inevitably brings up thoughts of winter. A week ago, however, things were very different. The eighteenth of October is the festival of St. Luke, and it is on that day, or near it, that the serene weather usually arrives. Late on the night of the seventeenth, I looked out of the window and saw that the change had come. The clouds were all gone from the sky, and the trees were still. The half- moon was in the north-east, and her light was singularly pure and brilliant. On the lawn you could see the deep shadow of the house, with its chimneys and gables, and even a straggling and pro- jecting branch of the pear-tree on the wall, quite sharp and distinct ; but beyond that the ground was so dazzlingly white that I had to look more than once or twice before I could convince myself that there had not been a sudden fall of snow. To make sure I went to another window, but even there the same delusive appearance was very strong, for the moon- light caught the top of an ivied wall, the bottom of which was in shadow, and again I said, ' Surely it must be snow.' The morning which followed was very beautiful ; the sky clear blue, but covered with 234 Country Pleasures. those white curling clouds which, as we gaze up at them, look so like far reaching flocks of innumerable sheep. Although this sky is the picture of peace, yet on watching it very closely one could see that beneath the motionless clouds, whose shapes were so curiously and infinitely repeated, there was moving rapidly along a thin veil of white mist which seemed to be alternately accumulated and dispelled. Bloom- field, the peasant poet, has depicted such a sky with considerable elegance of expression : — For yet above these wafted clouds are seen (In a remoter sky, still more serene) Others, detach'd in ranges through the air, Spotless as snow, and countless as they're fair ; Scatter'd immensely wide from east to west, The beauteous 'semblance of a Flock at rest. , During the night the fall of dew had been very heavy, and it was worth while to stoop and examine the grass. Can anything be more exquisite than the hundred separate pearls, which at such a time may be counted on each green blade ? As the sun brightened, I could not help noticing how soft were the shadows of the trees as they fell across the wet lawn. A shadow on the dewy grass is not the same as that which falls upon the dry. This weather continued for a few days, the wind being south, with slight divergence to east or west, October. 235 and the thermometer rising to sixty degrees in the daytime, and falling only a little below fifty at night. On the twentieth there was rain ; but it was like the warm rain of summer. On the same day I found a primrose in bloom, and the yellow-jasmine was breaking into bud. About Christmas the jasmine will be in flower. In all corners of the garden now the spiders' webs, covered with prey, are very conspicuous ; and when the air is dry at night you cannot pass down the walks without feeling that the mysterious gossamer is being woven across your face. How small, and yet how large in their power of production must the creatures be by whom this strange network is evolved. I have never been able to find them at their task ; but I think I have caught them in the daytime hiding in flower-cups and on the under-side of the leaves — tiny spiders, not quite so big as a pin's head. That they have power to float in the air, carrying the thread with them, I have often proved when walking, for in- stance, by the edge of the pond, where on one side at least, the creature could have found no support. It is not easy to discover the object of these frail cocoons, for no flies are visible upon them. Their extent and the uniformity of their occurrence also is very amazing. I have frequently seen two or three hundred yards of 236 Country Pleasures. garden paling festooned with them in the morning. The work has been done in a single night and each little filmy thread is passed from point to point with the regularity of the chains on a suspension bridge. Another characteristic phenomenon just now is that of the fungi. Every day there is a new and prolific crop in the grass, around the roots of trees, and especially on the old stumps which have been left in the ground. Many of them are repulsive both in shape and colour, being frequently a dull and ugly brown — ' Brownest toadstones,' as Herrick calls them — but sometimes they are rich in colour — amber and pink — and often remind you, both in form and tint, of the anemones and other creatures which line the sides of the rock-pools by the sea-shore. The mosses are also very brilliant at this time, especially those which adorn the trunks of trees. I notice that they usually appear on the side which fronts the north or north-east. If a colourist wishes to see the perfection of green, let him stand before one of these trees and observe how the tint is developed from the rough brown of the bark at the two outer edges, slowly and with almost impercep- tible gradations, until it culminates at the centre in a pure and vivid emerald which no skill of hand or cunningly mixed pigment could possibly reproduce. October. 237 The sparrows have all returned and are here in astonishing numbers. They have been away, I sup- pose, in the harvest fields, feeding sumptuously every day. Now they will begin to clear the garden of its pests. They usually gather together a little before dusk ; and their favourite meeting-place is a broad- topped oak which has more leaves upon it now than any other of the neighbouring trees. From this tree as a centre they are incessantly darting out, returning quickly, and chasing each other from bough to bough. The sound of their united twittering and whistling is very peculiar. As it seems to me, their only object is amusement, for I have not been able to discover any method or serious purpose in their action at this time. I was standing under this tree the other night watching their movements, when the sound of a distant gun sent them all abroad, and I saw that there must have been more than two hundred of them perched in this place alone. As the darkness comes on they slowly and almost imperceptibly disperse. I have tried to follow them but cannot ; and I often ask myself, Where do all these birds go to in the night ? I have looked for them after dark, but have never been able to find more than two or three sitting here and there on the hawthorns. 238 Country Pleasures. XLII.— THE GLEN. October 30. The face of the country here, though undulating and far from monotonous when considered in detail, would be broadly described as flat, the base of the hills being five or six miles away. This comparatively level surface, however, is frequently indented by pic- turesque and winding ravines, which have been gradually scooped out by the slow agency of winter floods. What we call The Glen is one of the smaller of these ravines. Its shape is irregular. There is a main trunk along which the principal stream flows, and there are besides two or three branching hollows, each of which has its own water-course. One of these takes its rise within our own garden-enclosure, and is known to us as The Dell. The water from the pond flows through it, and it is here that the boys make mimic water-wheels. In spring the slopes of it are blue with hyacinths, and there are some fine ferns about the roots of the tall ash-trees which rise on each side. , At the top of the Dell there is an old wooden dove-cage mounted on a tree-stump. We have put it there as a shelter or rendezvous for the birds, if they choose to use it ; and as the bars are wide apart they can pass in and out as they wish. October. 239 Just now it is covered with branches, which, in prun- ing, have been cut from the rose-bushes and placed here so that the birds might pluck the scarlet hips which are still hanging upon them. Outside the fence the Dell has been filled up and is crossed by a public road, under which the water runs, continuing its course down into the Glen. Standing in the road you may look along the narrow ravine and see a picture of considerable beauty. The ash-trees which begin in our garden grow more thickly here. The stems, having to climb towards the light, are long and bare, and lean towards each other so as to cross near the summit. In this way they make a vista down which the eye travels with the same pleasure that it would along an aisle of gothic arches. The Glen is always a surprise to strangers. If one should come to it in the depth of summer and find himself, not on the outskirts, but in the very midst, the exclamation which would be sure to rise to his lips would be — ' How thick the foliage —this might be thirty miles away from any town ! ' Truth to tell, it is an oasis. The city is ever stealing nearer and nearer upon it ; and is, in fact, rapidly making a sterile wilderness of the surrounding fields. This makes the place more precious — we know that it will soon be gone, and when we first catch sight of its 240 Country Pleasures. leafy edge, as we return home in the evening, we say — 'This is the happy valley in whose precincts we shall find once more peace and repose.' The Glen is not large. To walk round it follow- ing its irregular margin would be a journey perhaps of some three quarters of a mile. In doing this we should start from our own gates ; and, descending a steep lane, pass the picturesque cottages which have been already mentioned in these Notes. Ascending again, one comes upon an old house, in front of which may still be seen the stone mounting-steps, where the stirrup-cup. may often have been tossed off; and which tell their own tale of riders long dead. Here, standing under a gnarled and twisted elm, at the edge of the declivity, we look down on the grey roofs of the cottages, and into the Glen itself. At this point, if we have permission, we may most easily descend into it. In the cloudy afternoon of an October day the place is very still and not unlovely, although the summer is gone, and although even the return of summer will not bring back the beauty which we have known of old. When we reach the bottom and wander along the grassy path by the brook-side, we see how exquisite are the folding and over-lapping lines of the green slopes as they fall back one behind another. This is the great beauty of the Glen. The October. 241 ridges all round are set with trees which show them- selves against the sky. There is the beech, the chest- nut, the sycamore, the silver-birch, and one purple- beech, which we have watched for nearly twenty years, putting on, season after season, its glorious and ever-changing apparel of green, of light brown, of purple, and lastly of brilliant red. By the path there are still in flower the daisy, the dandelion, the shepherd's-purse, and the scabious or devil's-bit ; and among the long grass overhanging the brook there is one tuft of red-campion, a cheerful thing for October. In the bottom of the Glen there are two noble trees which rise above all the rest — a lime and an ash. Both of them might be sketched as characteristic of their species. The bole of the lime is, as usual, straight and well-formed ; and many a time have I watched for hours the gracefully curving branches move up and down in the wind, with that feathery and finger-like motion which is so peculiar to them — The large lime feathers low, The lime a summer home of murmurous wings. The ash grows against a bank ; and on one side its roots, green and scaly, are half-exposed. A few leaves still hang on the spreading and shapely boughs, and a bramble climbs about the lower part of the 242 Country Pleasures. trunk. Just at the foot there are one or two roots of the autumn-crocus remaining in flower : every year they come up in the same place. Until quite recently a pair of magpies built in this ash-tree on each suc- ceeding spring. The leaves were generally so thick that we seldom saw the nest until October ; but the birds were seen every day. They were very regular in their habits, and might be observed flying together up and down the Glen at a certain hour every morning. It is not often that these birds are to be found so near a large town. Two other trees are noticeable, a chestnut and a willow. The chestnut, being low down, and protected from the wind, has retained its leaves ; and as these are touched now with the burning tints of autumn it presents a splendid sight. They will all have fallen, however, in a day or two. As I look at it I think of those fantastic lines by William Allingham : — Bright yellow, red, and orange, The leaves come down in hosts ; The trees are Indian princes, But soon they'll turn to ghosts ; The leathery pears and apples Hang russet on the bough, It's Autumn, Autumn, Autumn late, 'Twill soon be Winter now. The willow has been curiously warped in its youth, and grows right across the brook like a bridge, from October. 243 one side to the other, some of the branches turning towards the sky and others downward towards the water. It is such a willow as that on whose ' pendent boughs ' the poor Ophelia hung her ' coronet weeds ' : — A willow grows aslant a brook, That shows his hoar leaves in the glassy stream. The Glen is, as might be expected, a famous place for birds, though they are, of course, becoming more rare. The cuckoo is still a regular visitant ; the wrens build in the bank near the willow mentioned above ; the blackbird is common : but the most fre- quent of all is the throstle. Indeed, my old friend, Samuel Bamford, the stalwart author of the Passages in the Life of a Radical, once told me, as we were sitting together one summer's day on these very slopes, that in his boyhood the place was always known as ' Throstle Glen.' The winter seems to be coming upon us early. On the twenty-eighth there was hail ; and again last night. This morning there was ice on the walks, the heads of the dahlias were down, and the thermometer showed that we had had six degrees of frost. The robin felt the cold, and knew what it meant, I think ; for he began to show a desire for closer acquaintance. As I stood and whistled for him on the lawn he came R 2 244 Country Pleasures. within two yards of me, lifting up his face in a pert fashion, and showing his deep yellow breast — it is hardly red yet— and then fluttering back into a neigh- bouring thorn. November. 245 NOVEMBER. November chill blaws loud wi' angry sugh ; The short'ning winter-day is near a close ; The miry beasts retreating frae the pleugh ; The black'ning trains o' craws to their repose : The toil-worn Cotter frae his labour goes, This night his weekly moil is at an end, Collects his spades, his mattocks, and his hoes, Hoping the morn in ease and rest to spend, And weary, o'er the moor, his course does hameward bend. Robert Burns, The Cotter's Saturday Night. XLIII.— THE FIRST WEEK OF WINTER : RED-LETTER DAYS. November 6. This week must be set down as the beginning of our winter. We shall, no doubt, have intervals of warmer weather ; but none the less we are constrained to admit that the severe season has made good its place and has developed already all its most charac- teristic forms. Every night there has been frost, the thermometer falling once as low as twenty-three de- grees. On the first of the month the pond was en- tirely covered with ice, and the rime was very thick 246 Country Pleasures. on the grass. On the morning of the second there was a little sleety snow lying on the ground. On the third the sun rose with that red and beamless aspect which always suggests the very depth of winter ; and on the fourth there came a heavy white fog, which prevented us from seeing more than a yard or two from the window. It is interesting to observe how similar the weather is to that which we had at the beginning of the year, when we were as far past the Shortest-day as we are now on this side of it. The exhilarating brightness, the depressing gloom, the blind fog, and the sun-illumined mist are the exact counterparts of what we were having in the month of February. As the cold weather comes upon us the red-letter days seem to increase in the calendar. The week has been quite a succession of festivals. First came Halloween, the Vigil of All Saints ; or, in the earlier tongue, of All Hallows. However lukewarm we older people may become with regard to these holidays the young folks, especially in country houses, are not disposed to let them sink into desuetude ; and so in the kitchen there was a larger fire than usual, and in the middle of the floor a great pail of water, filled with some of those apples which a little while ago we had gathered from the trees. The November. 247 ducking and splashing are a source of great fun ; and, if one chooses to moralise, one may see how success in the slippery chase falls only to the youngster who can bring to the pursuit both cunning and perse- verance. This diving for apples seems to be most common in the North of England. Burns makes no mention of it in his well-known poem ' Halloween.' With him it is the burning of nuts and the pulling of stocks or plants of kail, and other strange ceremonies for purposes of divination : — Amang the bonnie, winding banks, Where Doon rins, wimplin', clear, Where Bruce ance rul'd the martial ranks, An' shook his Carrick spear, Some merry, friendly, countra folks Together did convene, To burn their nits, an' pou their stocks, An' haud their Halloween Fu' blythe that night. The next day — the first of November — was All Saints. This festival was formerly regarded as sig- nalising the close of harvest. By this time all fruits are supposed to be gathered in ; and, as we looked over our own garden, we saw that nothing was left but a few brilliant clusters on a Siberian crab. It was a pleasant sight in the bright winter's morning to see a large blackbird sitting on one of the branches, 248 Country Pleasures. making his breakfast on the now over-ripe fruit. The beauty of this day and the clearness of the sky reminded us of those sweet and consolatory stanzas which open Keble's poem for All Saints : — Why blow'st thou not, thou wintry wind, Now every leaf is brown and sere, And idly droops, to thee resigned, The faded chaplet of the year ? Yet wears the pure aerial sky Her summer veil, half drawn on high, Of silvery haze, and dark and still The shadows sleep on every slanting hill. How quiet shows the woodland scene ! Each flower and tree, its duty done, Reposing in decay serene, Like weary men when age is won, Such calm old age as conscience pure And self-commanding hearts ensure, Waiting their summons to the sky, Content to live, but not afraid to die. All Saints is followed by All Souls, the day upon which it was formerly the custom to bake and eat soul-cakes and to ring bells for the protection of the dead from evil spirits. It is curious to note that while the associations of this season in the mind of Keble are all of them evidently of a benign and cheerful character, another writer, of not very dis- similar tendencies, Kenelm Digby, connects the time with all that is wild and awful. In his Morus he November. 249 speaks of a mournful colouring being, at this season, spread over nature, highly favourable to romantic feelings, high thoughts, and generous deeds, and then adds : — ' Historians have often remarked how fre- quently this season has been distinguished by its tempests. In the eighteenth year of Henry I., All Hallowne Day was attended by a storm of equal horror, " at which," we are told, " the people were marvellously amazed." And on All Souls Day, the year in which Richard I. was taken prisoner in Germany, the North-West side of the element ap- peared on fire a little before the break of day. It was on All Hallowne night, about midnight, that Cavendish was called up at Assher, to let in Sir John Russel and a troop of horsemen, who were come with comfortable tidings to Cardinal Wolsey of the king's returning favour, when he tells us it rained all that night most vehemently, as it did at any time the year before. So that after Sir John had delivered his message from the king, and given the ring, he con- cluded, saying, " And, Sir, I have had the sorest journey for so little a way, that ever I had to my remembrance." ' Three days after All Souls there comes a day of another kind — the Festival of Gunpowder, shall we call it, or the Feast of St. Guy? Bonfires were origin- 250 Country Pleasures. ally one of the accompaniments of Halloween ; and, no doubt, the lighting of great fires at this time has really more to do with the ancient holidays than with the comparatively modern historical ' Plot.' In Lan- cashire we seem to have been always famous for the keeping of festivals, and the lighting of bonfires. Old Michael Drayton, writing of this neighbourhood in the Polyolbion, says : — Was never seen such rule In any place but here, at Boon-fire or at Yule ; And every village smokes at wakes with lusty cheer, Then ' Hey,' they cry, ' for Lun,' and ' Hey for Lancashire.' For a week or two the boys have been very busy gathering together materials for the annual fire ; and by the fifth the woodhouse was filled with hedge- clippings, old roots, fallen branches, and even dead boughs which, with the help of the gardener, had been lopped or sawn from the trees. The night was clear and fine and there was no difficulty in lighting the great pile which had been reared on a vacant plot in the garden, far enough from the house to prevent danger from the vagrant sparks. It was a moment of excitement when the fire was seen to be creeping up from the base, and we noticed that the vast masses of smoke which rolled over our heads were silvered by the moon, and made clouds as real as those which November. . 251 we see in the sky. When the flames had fairly taken hold of the pile we made a circle and danced round it just as the fire-worshippers may have done thou- sands of years ago. My friend the Painter, who was a visitor for the night, was transfixed with admiration. He saw pictures. That charred trunk in the centre of the burning pyramid, how like it was to — A pale martyr in his shirt of fire ; and the flames themselves, how wonderful they were as they leapt quivering into the air, reaching towards us as with an almost human motive, and maintaining for an instant a life individual and distinct from the mass whence they had sprung, and then vanishing into nothingness like a broken endeavour. ' Men scarcely know' — Shelley might well say — 'How beautiful fire is.' It is indeed beautiful ; but it is the beauty of the pard, and of that kind which consists with swiftness and terror. A little after midnight, when the logs had all fallen in, and the great fire was-only a circle of bright embers lying flat on the ground, and when all the flaring of rockets, and the smoking, and the shouting, and the cannonading were done with, I looked up and saw what a still and beautiful night there was overhead. A light wind from the north had brought 252 Country Pleasures. up into the otherwise clear sky a drift of snowy clouds — I saw how white they were by contrast with the black trees — and there, in the south-west, was the moon sitting among them, soft yet brilliant, the very image of placid beauty. It needed only a little stretch of fancy to see in her face a touch of disdain as she looked down upon the extinction of our tran- sient show ! XLIV.— A SNOW-STORM. November 13. November is maintaining all the characteristics of a severe winter. On All Saints and All Souls the season may be said to have been fairly ushered in, the first snow falling On the night of the former day ; and this week, on Martinmas Day, we are visited by a snow-storm of no ordinary kind. It was not without warning that this heavy fall came upon us. For two or three days there had been cold rain, mixed with sleet ; and at night sharp frost. The wind, too, was bitter — A wind out of the north, A sharp wind and a snell — as the old ballad has it. On the tenth the weather was changeful and stormy. A high wind accom- November. 253 panied the rain, and in the afternoon there was a rainbow in the north-east, which, on such a day, seemed a portent rather than an augury of calm. At night we had a sinister-looking moon glimmering faintly through rifted clouds. In the garden we were made to feel that desola- tion had fallen upon all our pleasant places. The rain-drops hung half-frozen on the hedges, and hardly any foliage was left. Even the elder had at last succumbed. The leaves became flaccid with the first sharp frost ; but now, though still green, they were nearly all lying on the ground, and the light-coloured and straggling twigs, with only a stray leaf here and there twirling in the wind, looked even more wretched than those surrounding trees which had been earlier unclothed. As we wander down the alleys the bare trees show us how many happy nests there were in the summer — how many that we, with all our care, had never found, in unexpected corners, no less than in places so patent that the wonder is how we had missed them. An empty bird's nest is not a pleasant thing to look upon in the chill winter — and here is one not empty, but more melancholy still, for it contains the unhatched eggs of spring. Why forsaken, who can tell ? At such a time that exquisite but mournful 254 Country Pleasures. sonnet of the great master is found to be the fittest expression of one's feelings : — That time of year thou mayst in me behold When yellow leaves, or none, or few, do hang Upon those boughs which shake against the cold, Bare ruin'd choirs, where late the sweet birds sang. In me thou see'st the twilight of such day As after sunset fadeth in the west, Which by-and-by black night doth take away, Death's second self, that seals up all in rest. In me thou seest the glowing of such fire That on the ashes of his youth doth lie, As the death-bed whereon it must expire Consumed with that which it was nourish'd by. This thou perceiv'st, which makes thy love more strong, To love that well which thou must leave ere long. It was a relief when, on the eleventh, the snow began. So early as three o'clock in the afternoon an ominous darkness, as of night, fell on the landscape and was not lifted again. The snow came fast and in heavy flakes, and the gloom was strange and bewilder- ing. At a neighbouring farm the fowls were unable to find their usual roosting-place, and were discovered the next morning out of doors, half-buried in the snow. At one time there was thunder and with it a heavy wind, but later the night became still, and the moon, though unseen, covered all with a soft light. By this time the snow was from three to four inches deep, and there was a considerable drift in the lanes. The landscape November. 255 was transformed ; all was beautiful ; there were no blots. In the garden we had the loveliest and most fairy-like scene of all the year. The larger trees were each of them marked by a strip of white along the north side of the bole ; but the branches were entirely covered. Every tree, however, retained its own characteristics ; some — the evergreens especially — being heavily laden, while others were only lightly covered and showed the tracing of each twig and spine distinct and clear. The vistas were especially beautiful, and could only be likened to the corridors in some great palace of frost. In the early morning, the snow having ceased, and the clouds cleared away, the moon broke forth with great brilliancy, and then the landscape, as seen from the windows, was of a delicate blue colour, rather than white. For all this exhilaration of spirit and exaltation of fancy we had to suffer the next morning. The sun rose in a yellow haze and the sad change had already come. On the flat lawn close by the house the snow was still white and unbroken, as it will be for some days ; but the undulating fields beyond were already ridged with black, and were seen fading into a dreary distance where the grey earth and the grey sky, like Old Age and Death, meet together and are made one in an uncomplaining sadness. 256 Country Pleasures. At breakfast our feathered pensioners, the robins and the sparrows, were more numerous than usual ; and, although the crumbs sank into the snow, they were deft enough to pick them out. It is interesting to observe what fantastic things the birds will do. A day or two ago I saw a sparrow clinging by its claws to the perpendicular wall of the barn, apparently in order that it might conceal itself from another bird which was sitting just above on the projecting eaves, and who ultimately, by bending over, found where its mate was hiding. The two then flew away together. But still more singular was a sight in the garden on the same morning. A small green linnet was sitting on a ledge underneath the roof of a low building, level with the eye, and either regaling himself or amusing himself by catching in his mouth, as they fell one by one, the drops of melted snow. To-night the frost has returned with great sharp- ness ; the sky, swept by the wind, is preternaturally clear ; the stars beat as if they would leap from their places; and the snow, which has been re-frozen, glitters like diamonds on the roofs and on the ground. November. 257 XLV.—THE CLOUGH. November ig. The Clough is a kind of larger Glen — a kloof or cleft in the ground, and lying below the general level of the country. It is wilder than the Glen ; but it has suffered much during the last few years, being less carefully preserved. If we start from our own garden and strike straight across the fields, the dis- tance to the nearest edge ot the Clough would be a little over half a mile. Speaking roughly, it runs from north-east to west, and its length is about a mile and a half. It is partly in our own parish, that of Moston, and partly in the ancient township of Blackley. In a Survey taken in 1322, the fifteenth year of Edward II., it is said that—' The park of Blakelegh is worth in pannage, eyrie of eagles, herons and hawks, honey-bees, mineral earths, ashes, and other issues, fifty-three shillings and fourpence. The vesture of oaks, with the whole coverture, is worth 200 marks (133/. 6s. 8d.) in the gross. It contains seven miles in circumference, together with two deer-leaps of the king's grant.' One of these ' deer-leaps' was the Clough of which we are speaking. The most accessible mode of entry is from the high road which runs through Rochdale 258 Country Pleasures. into the county of York. About half a mile south of the village of Blackley, you come upon a sharp descent, down -which the country waggons, returning home, always rumble with the break on their wheels. It is a picturesque bit of road — picturesque, but diffi- cult. In severe winters when the ground was slippery I have seen it quite impassable ; once I remember the snow had to be cleared away by gangs of men, and was piled up on each side to the height of ten -or twelve feet. Just at this point, where there is a populous rookery on the left hand, a lane on the right runs eastward into the Clough. It looks like a private way, and is very tempting to the passer-by. On one side there is a green hollow, on the other a steep bank; and, as the trees, though not large, are thickly grown, you get a winding avenue which in the summer- time is pleasantly chequered with light and shade. In going from our own house, however, we cross the fields and enter by another way, which, leading between high banks of sand, plunges at once into the midst of the ravine. On this side of the Clough we pass the ancient house which is known as Hough Hall. It is now surrounded by modern dwellings, but it still retains something of its' ancient appearance, having pointed gables and a black-and-white timbered front. In the reign of Henry VIII. it was the resi- November. 259 dence of George Halgh, Gentleman, whose widow married Sir John Byron, of the adjoining parish of Clayton. Sir John was an ancestor of the poet, and seems to have anticipated the irregularities, if not the genius, of his illustrious descendant. Standing now in the Clough-Bottom, by the edge of a little stream, one sees how wild and beautiful the place has once been. The ground rises sharply on every side, and the brook, winding and turning about, makes many a little gorge and headland. All the elements of the picturesque are present ; but the scene has been rudely dealt with by man : and the loose nature of the soil on the steep banks has caused most of the finest trees to fall. Our recollections of the Clough go back to our earliest years. In boyhood it was the home of almost all our romance. Here the eternal friendships of adolescence were made ; and here, too, those later and still more tender attachments had their begin- ning. It was in the Clough, also, that we first learned to feel that reverence and love for all the changing aspects of nature, whether great or small, which have since been able to lead us on from 'joy to joy,' and which have helped to form in us that — Cheerful faith, that all which we behold Is full of blessings. S 2 260 Country Pleasures. We came here for our sunsets and sunrisings — nowhere could they be better seen— and not unfre- quently, for the sake of snatching a fearful pleasure, we have ventured into the haunted recesses of the Clough in the depth of midnight. In spring the banks were then covered with the anemone, the hyacinth, and the stellaria : in summer, when the ground was thick with ferns, the honeysuckle went gadding about among the wild roses ; in the autumn we gathered blackberries — the nuts were gone even in my time — and in winter, when the old-fashioned weather was on, and the brook could be heard tink- ling under the ice, the snow pictures were finer here than anywhere else. Before we had ever seen a mountain we simulated Alpine terrors among the sandy scaurs, making believe in dizzy precipices over which we were accustomed to hang suspended from some projecting branch ; and, as for cataracts, we made them ourselves by damming up the stream, where it was narrowest, with stones and the roots of trees. Westward from this point the Clough widens into a green glade ; and if we were to follow the path which meanders along the turf, we should come to a farmhouse standing at the end of the avenue of trees already mentioned. Samuel Bamford, writing November. 261 more than thirty years ago, describes the glade, and makes it the scene of a wild story, intended to illus- trate the superstitious belief, common in Lancashire, that whoever is able to gather the seed of the St. John's Fern, at midnight on the eve of St. John's Day, with certain cabalistic ceremonies, will have power to command the affections of an unwilling damsel. ' About half-way up this kloof is an open cleared space of green and short sward ; it is probably two hundred yards in length, by sixty in width ; and passing along it from Blackley, a group of fine oaks appears on a slight eminence, a little to the left. This part of the grove was, at the time we are con- cerned with, much more crowded with underwood than at present. The bushes were then close and strong ; fine sprouts of " yerth groon " hazel and ash were common as nuts; whilst a thick bush of bramble, wild rose, and holly, gave the spot the appearance of a place inclosed and set apart for mysterious conceal- ment. Intermingled with these almost impervious barriers were tufts of tall green fern, curling and bending gracefully ; and a little separate from them, and nearer the old oaks, might be observed a few fern clumps of a singular appearance ; of a paler green than the others, — with a flatter and a broader leaf, — sticking up, rigid and expanded, like something 262 Country Pleasures. stark with mute terror. These were " Saint John's Fearn." ' Turning eastward, the Clough narrows, and the path becomes difficult, being sometimes obstructed by fallen trees, and sometimes breaking off altogether in consequence of a slip in the land. It is best, therefore, to keep by the brookside crossing and re-crossing from time to time. In a little while a lofty and picturesque knoll rises in front of you, and seems to bar farther progress. Here, indeed, what is usually known as The Clough comes to an end ; but by a little scrambling you may get into a contri- butory dingle which runs on still farther for about half a mile, and finally loses itself in the level fields. In this dingle there are yet some of the rarer wild flowers to be found ; and here, in the long summer- evenings, far away from intruders and all the noise of the town, you may often come across one of those Lancashire working botanists — quiet and unobtrusive creatures — who, like the plants they seek, are, it is to be feared, becoming every year increasingly un- common. Returning from the dingle we climb the knoll ; and here, on the summit, and curiously near the pre- cipitous edge, is the lonely farmhouse which gives the place its name — Boggart Hole Clough, the November. 263 Boggart Clough in fact, 'hole' and 'clough' being one of those duplications so common in all languages. The legend attached to this house will be found under the title of ' The Bar-Gaist' in the first volume of Roby's Traditions of Lancashire. Although appear- ing with Roby's own work it was really written by Crofton Croker, the well-known author of The Fairy Legends. The salient points of the story are con- cisely put in Tennyson's ' Walking to the Mail ' : — His house, for so they say, Was haunted with a jolly ghost, that shook The curtains, whined in lobbies, tapt at doors, And rummaged like a rat : no servant stay'd : The farmer vext packs up his beds and chairs, And all his household stuff; and with his boy Betwixt his knees, his wife upon the tilt, Sets out, and meets a friend who hails him, 'What! You're flitting! ' ' Yes, we're flitting,' says the ghost, (For they had pack'd the thing among the beds,) ' Oh, well,' says he, 'you flitting with us too — Jack, turn the horses' heads and home again.' The farmer who was the victim of the pranks of this Robin Goodfellow, this ' drudging goblin ' and ' lubber fiend' as Milton puts it, has been long gone ; and his successors are gone too, for the house is now untenanted save by the rats and the birds, and is fast falling into decay. Its antiquity is proved by the nature of the building, for the walls, in some parts at least, are of what was called ' rubble and daub ' — 264 Country Pleasures. loose stones covered with plaster and intermingled with beams of wood. In the grey November even- ing, with the mist beginning to fill the Clough and already lying along the fields, it looks, as a haunted house should, both weird and uncanny. The fences are thrown down ; the trim garden has become a wilderness ; all signs of life have disappeared, the windows are blocked with wood, the doors are made fast with nails, the hearth is cold and the fire will never be kindled upon it again. The Bar-Gaist was a homely sprite ; and, as this is a home no longer, he is gone too. By climbing we manage to look into one of the deserted and empty chambers. The walls are ragged, the narrow stairs are broken, the roof lets in the sky, and we feel that even the presence of a goblin would make the place more cheerful than it now is. Leaving the Clough, and crossing a few fields, we come to Booth Hall, an old mansion which bears the date of 1640. Humphrey Booth, the builder of the house, founded the Trinity Church in Salford ; and left sundry legacies 'to the poor for ever.' That quaint chronicler, Hollingworth, says of him that, ' Being in great weakness, he earnestly desired that he might live to see the chapel finished, which he did ; but immediately after the solemn dedication of November. 265 it by the Bishop of Chester he more apparently weakened ; then he earnestly begged that he might partake of the Lord's Supper there, and then he would not wish to live longer. It pleased God to revive him in such a measure as that he was able to go to the chapel constantly till he was partaker of the Supper (which could not be done of some months after the consecration) in the chapel, and was never able to go forth after, nor scarce to get home. He was a man just in his trading, generous in entertain- ment of any gentlemen of quality that came to the town, though mere strangers to him ; bountiful to the Church and poor ; and faithful to his friend.' The lights are already glimmering in the windows of Booth Hall when we turn homeward. Our nearest way is through a branch of Boggart-Hole locally known as Oliver's Clough. This is really the finest part of the whole ravine, and has suffered least. The trees are many of them noble in their proportions ; and, as the path is carried along the high ground, you look through the tree trunks to the brook which runs at a great depth below. When we reach the open glade the twilight has already fallen, and we can hear the birds fluttering low among the trees. At the entrance to the Clough we meet a group of children who are making for home. They huddle 266 Country Pleasures. together, and hurry past us with scared faces. Pro- bably they are still believers in the existence of the Boggart. XLVL— NOVEMBER FOG. November 27. About the middle of the month, and after the snow had departed, there came some days of cheerful weather. It seemed as though November were about to pass by without its usual concomitant of fog. There were at this time several bright mornings, on which we comforted ourselves by observing how much of autumnal beauty was left us even in the midst of this wintry month. 'The country,' we said, ' is always beautiful ; look how tender, even now, is the colour of the grass, and how delicately it changes in the lights and shadows along the undulat- ing ground, and on the broken acclivity of the dell ; and the trees, though almost entirely leafless, do they not give, with a blue or even a soft grey sky above them, such an infinite repetition and variety of form, and such a picture of free development on the lines of rigid order as is not to be seen even in summer ? ' And each morning there was the waning moon in the south-west, a thin crescent, pale, and only November. 267, distinguishable from the surrounding clouds by its greater definiteness of form. Is there any other ponderable and embodied thing which presents so ethereal an aspect as this ? On the nineteenth, however, after hoar frost in the morning, the day became warm ; and then began the plague of mist and fog which has hardly left us since. Few things are more monotonous than a fog, and yet even that has its changes. Day after day we have had all sorts, both as to density and colour. The hues have been as various, in fact, as those of the rats in The Pied Piper of Hamelin — brown fogs, and black fogs,- grey fogs and tawny fogs. For many days we have seen no sun, nor even had any hint of the sky ; the lights have not been put out at noon ; in the evening the most familiar paths have seemed strange and dubious ; and at midnight men have lost their bearings and have wandered about the country for hours. Nothing produces so many unearthly effects as a thick fog. As you walk among the trees they seem to move past you ; if you stand still and look up, the higher branches are far away and the top is lost in a strange distance ; but the most curious thing of all is to see a lantern moved about in a grove — then long shafts of light and shadow dart out and are suddenly 268 Country Pleasures. withdrawn, and move over each other in a way that is utterly bewildering. If, as has been recently the case, a slight frost accompanies the fog during the night, we see in the morning one of the most wretched prospects of the year. Everything is dank and miserable ; on the pond there is a thin coat of ice, broken and ragged at the edges, and the water, where it is seen, has neither brightness nor transparency ; the birds hover about as if their wings were pasted ; on all the hedges the fog is seen to have been congealed in black drops ; and along the fences it lies in a dusky deposit which shocks you because it is so unlike the usual white and powdery rime. - Our English poets may be trusted as to the character and associations of fog. They know the appearance, alas, but too well ! When we are to ' sup full with horrors ' we begin with a fog. In that elvish chorus with which our direst tragedy opens the hags are heard singing — Fair is foul, and foul is fair : Hover through the fog and filthy air; and when the Thane's wife, in the most terrible speech ever put into the mouth of a woman, calls upon the ' thick night ' to hide itself, we know that she is thinking of a fog when she says — November. 260, Pall thee in the dunnest smoke of hell, That my keen knife see not the wound it makes, Nor heaven peep through the blanket of the dark, To cry ' Hold, hold ! ' Milton, in Comus, speaks of ' black usurping mists' that dam up the influence of moon and stars ; and in the same poem he calls the fog ' bleak and unkindly.' Shelley, as one might expect, seems to have felt keenly the pressure of fog. In his ' Autumn : A Dirge,' he calls on the winter months to follow the dead year — Come, months, come away ; Put on white, black, and grey, Let your light sisters play — Ye, follow the bier Of the dead cold year, And make her grave green with tear on tear. The ' white, black, and grey,' I take it, are the fogs of winter. In ' A Vision of the Sea,' the same poet depicts — A lead-coloured fog gathered up from the deep, Whose breath was quick pestilence ; and again, in ' The Sensitive Plant,' we find the following description of what we have recently suf- fered — Hour by hour, when the air was still, The vapours arose which have strength to kill : At morn they were seen, at noon they were felt, At night they were darkness no star could melt. 270 Country Pleasures. John Clare gives us a homelier, but not less faithful picture ; indeed, I do not know any poet who has more truthfully rendered the dark and misty days of November : — The landscape sleeps in mist from morn till noon ; And, if the sun looks through, 'tis with a face Beamless and pale and round, as if the moon, When done the journey of her nightly race, Had found him sleeping, and supplied his place. For days the shepherds in the fields may be, Nor mark a patch of sky — blindfold they trace The plains, that seem without a bush or tree, Whistling aloud by guess, to flocks they cannot see. The owlet leaves her hiding place at noon, And flaps her grey wings in the doubling light ; The hoarse jay screams to see her out so soon, And small birds chirp and startle with affright ; Much doth it scare the superstitious wight, Who dreams of sorry luck, and sore dismay ; While cow-boys think the day a dream of night, And oft grow fearful on their lonely way, Fancying that ghosts may wake, and leave their graves by day. To-day, a heavy wind rising in the north, the fog was seen rolling up its tents and stealing rapidly away across the fields like an evil thing affrighted by the honest daylight. Once more the sky was visible; once more, too, it was possible to pass with pleasure along the garden-walks. There the circle of life never ceases to move round, and I saw that, even November. 271 during the dark and cold days, many a new leaf had been springing from the earth. Under the evergreen bushes there are thousands of young foxglove plants which at first sight you would take for some new moss ; the brown twigs of the syringa have leaf- buds on them ; the box and the fir are wonderfully fresh and green ; and there is one small purple beech which still furnishes a point of strong colour. The last flowers in the garden were the marigolds and the stocks ; that was at the beginning of the month, and there are none left now. In the green- house the geraniums and fuchsias still linger, and the new flower is the chrysanthemum. In the vinery the grapes are all gathered and the leaves have fallen. When these last had been swept up and wheeled into a corner I was amazed at their quantity. It is no wonder that the vine should stand for us, as the emblem of fruitful abundance by reason of its luxu- riant leafage no less than of its grape clusters. 272 Country Pleasures. DECEMBER AND JANUARY. As the wild air stirs and sways The tree-swung cradle of a child, So the breath of these rude days Rocks the year : be calm and mild, Trembling hours ; she will arise With new love within her eyes. January grey is here, Like a sexton by her grave ; February bears the bier, March with grief doth howl and rave, And April weeps — but, O ye hours ! Follow with May's fairest flowers. P. B. Shelley, A Dirge for the Year. XLVIL— THE MOSS. Moston : December 4. These Notes have been taken, as the reader will have seen, chiefly within the fences of my own garden, where, indeed, I find variety enough and the pleasure of constant change. I have also, in order to give some idea of the neighbouring country, gone a little farther afield and sketched the Glen and the Clough. Another characteristic feature of the place is the Moss. In ancient times the parish was probably divided December. 273 between open moss-land and thick woods of oak ; from the former it took its name. In the first year of the fourteenth century it is spoken of as a 'hamell,' or hamlet of the manor of Manchester, and is on some account exempted from the payment of certain tribute to Thomas de Grelle, the lord of the manor. The proper designation of that which we speak of familiarly as ' The Moss ' is the ' Whytemosse.' It is so called in a Survey taken in 1322. To reach the Moss we go due north by sundry devious lanes and field-paths. After we leave our own homestead there are but few trees ; probably most of them were cut down in the early part of the present century. We get no rich landscape, therefore; no deep pasture or umbrageous wood; and no wealthy and well-ordered farms. Yet the country is picturesque because it is broken. Even in its bare- ness we find, as upon the mountain-side, that quality which braces at once both mind and body. The land is, in fact, like the hardy stock, now passing away, but which for many centuries has lived upon it — a rude, stern, sagacious race ; reserved, yet full of mother -wit and overcharged with rough humour. We turn first by what we know as the Lily Lane. On one side is a pond where I remember to have 274 Country Pleasures. seen the lilies growing, and where, when a boy, I have many a time plunged into the water to capture them. Within the last few days snipe have been shot near this pond. Looking back we see that we are upon high ground, for a great part of the city is visible some three or four miles away. Standing here we look south-west, and on a clear summer's evening we have proof of what a glorious thing a great city may become when the sun is sinking behind it. In the early morning, before the smoke has risen, the hills are visible all round from Holcolme to Kinder- Scout and Odermann ; nor is the scene less attractive to me if I steal out here after dark. Then I look abroad over what is apparently a vast and trackless waste, at the farther edge of which strange lights glimmer and are reflected in the sky. As we leave the lane and pass into the fields, we catch a sight of Lightbowne Hall. It has been much modernised ; but some of the old mullions remain, and there is still untouched a fine room panelled in oak from floor to ceiling. A local tradition relates that when the young Pretender was making his re- treat from Derby, one of his officers, being at Light- bowne, was surprised. He attemptedto secrete himself in the angle of a large chimney which formerly stood by one of the gables. He was discovered, however, December. 275 by the Hanoverians and shot dead in his hiding- place. The path now winds through a few fields, usually sown with grain, and comes out into an old road, by which, if we were to follow it, we might reach the moorland hills. The Moss is now in front of us, and we are stand- ing at Shackerley Green. Shackerley is a corruption of Shacklock, that being the name of an ancient family whose mansion was on the Green in the reign of Henry VIII. At a very short distance are the halls of Great and Little Nuthurst. At Nuthurst lived the Chaddertons, the Chethams, and the Sandfords. One of the Sandfords was Bishop of Lincoln in 1595. The Green is the place where Moston used to disport itself. Here in winter the great bonfires were made, and in summer the Rushbearings were held. I have often seen the tall Rush-cart, as it was called, swag- gering along the rough-paven road preceded by its band of Morrice-dancers. Bamford gives in his Early Days the simple song which was usually sung on these occasions : — My new shoon they are so good, I could dance Morris if I would ; And if hat and sark be drest, I will dance Morris with the best. The Rush-cart festival is generally connected in Lan- T 2 • 276 Country Pleasures. cashire with the Dedication of the Parish Church ; and had its origin, no doubt, in the practice of strew- ing the floor of the sacred edifice with new rushes for the winter ; but in other counties the ceremony seems to have accompanied the Harvest Home, the cart being crowned with sheaves of corn instead of with rushes. Allowing for this difference, Herrick's descrip- tion of the Hock-cart would answer for our ceremony of Rushbearing : — Crown'd with the eares of come, now come, And, to the pipe, sing harvest home. Come forth, my lord, and see the cart Drest up with all the country art. See, here a maukin, there a sheet, As spotless pure as it is sweet ; The horses, mares, and frisking fillies, Clad all in linen white as lilies. The harvest swaines and wenches bound For joy, to see the hock-cart crown'd. Considering how near we are to a great town the country hereabouts is curiously primitive and secluded. The scattered farms are mostly small. Each of them will be found to have about four acres of land attached to it, an ancient law forbidding a house to be erected on a smaller plot of ground unless it was intended for the cote or cottage of a forester, a herdsman, or a miner. The buildings also very closely resemble each other, including in nearly every case, a farmstead December. 277 and a loom-house? The meaning of this is that in winter, when rural occupations were not pressing, the long nights were occupied in the spinning and weaving of wool. The loneliness and isolation of the district, result- ing from its being far removed from any frequented highroad, have made it quite a stronghold of ancient customs and superstitions. Every lane and dingle and brookside had its own particular ghost or boggart. Phantom huntsmen were seen in the fields at twilight ; and anyone who would rise early enough might find the fairy-rings on the grass. I knew an old man of over eighty who durst not go alone after dark over a certain bridge, because he believed that underneath its arch a whole company of water-sprites lurked together. In the neighbouring Clough a strange bog- gart known as Nut-Nan flitted with a shrill scream among the hazel bushes ; and every little pond and marl-pit was haunted by a spirit vaguely called ' Pit mother,' which hid itself in the sedges and drew into the water little children as they passed by. The following prayer is still extant in the locality, and until quite recently it was actually used every night by an old crone before she retired to rest. The dialect of the prayer is that which is common in the district — 278 Country Pleasures. Fro' o' mak o' witches an' wizarts an' weasel-skins, An' o' mak o' feaw black things 'ut creepen up deytches Wi' great lung tails — may the Lord deliver us ! A hundred years ago a woman living in a cottage on the edge of the Moss being angry with her son, who was idle and asleep at his loom, struck him so violent a blow in her anger that he never woke, but slipped from his seat dead on to the floor of the loom- house. Seeing what she had done, the poor mother went out and drowned herself in an adjoining pond. Her ghost, of course, became the terror of the hamlet. If the lights burned blue, ' Old Bess ' was breathing on them ; if the rain streamed on the leaded windows, she was bringing water from the pond ; and if the doors rattled, poor Bess wanted shelter. At length a parson was brought to lay the perturbed spirit : and he did it using a formula which indicated that the spell should last for so long as a certain holly by the edge of the pond should remain green. Two years ago the old holly had entirely withered, and people are now to be found who believe that Bess is abroad once more. Besides these terrible spirits there are the harmless fairies, or 'little men' as they are familiarly called. Of these there is a pleasant story current, and implicitly believed. A man, who was ploughing at December. 279, nightfall, thought he saw something strange at the end of one of his furrows. He stopped his horses, and beheld three little men, dressed in green and wearing cock's feathers in their hats, dancing on the loam. Upon this he hid himself, and then the green men brought out a small bake-spittle—a. wooden shovel for turning cakes in the oven — and laying it on the ground went away. When the ploughman approached he found it was broken ; whereupon he mended it with some nails he had in his pocket, and then went on with his ploughing. When he came to the end of another furrow he found the spittle had gone, and in its place was a tiny vessel no bigger than a lady's thimble. Although so small it was shaped and coloured exactly like the brown earthenware jug out of which the ploughman usually drank his ale, and the foam was curling over the edge as if it had been freshly drawn from some fairy barrel. He took it up and drank ; and lo ! it lasted as long as if it had been a good gallon or more. He had tasted the fairy-brewing, and ever afterwards no man could equal him in ploughing, and all his life he prospered. That part of the Moss which we have now reached is still unreclaimed, and we walk by the edge of deep trenches, and past big stacks of black peat. The wind is like that which blows from off the sea ; and, as the 280 Country Pleasures. night is coming on, the distance might easily be mis- taken for a waste of waters. The frequent cry of the lapwing and a light moving up and down, as in a boat, help the illusion. Now, in the winter, and at dusk, it is a wild and lonely scene, and we hasten towards the more frequented road. In the spring, however, no place is more cheerful, for then one can hear more larks singing and soaring at one time than can be heard almost anywhere else ; and in summer, when the hay harvest is just over, we are accustomed to get much pleasant festivity of the rural sort at an old farm which lies near to where a stream flows off the Moss and down into that haunted Clough, of which I have written before. XLVIII.— WINTER IN THE LAKE-COUNTRY. December 10. In the beginning of March I gave some notes of a short sojourn which we were able to make in a country house among the mountains of Westmoreland. It was then the season of very early spring ; and, being accus- tomed to the Lake-Country only in the autumn, it was a great pleasure to see it for once in its vernal dress ; nor has it been less interesting to visit the same scene once more and to seek acquaintance with another unfamiliar aspect — that of mid-winter. December. 281 I need not again describe the old house in which we found ourselves after a day's travel; but when we had looked at our comfortable chambers, in which, by somebody's kindly thoughtfulness, there were cheerful fires burning, and had come down to dinner — an old-fashioned dinner in an old-fashioned room — we could not but consider ourselves wonder- fully fortunate in having again found quarters in such a delightful mansion. It was not only that the room itself looked like a home — warm, and on every hand suggestive of comfort, softly lighted by a lamp and by candles which glimmered in their quaint silver sticks and threw a flickering light on the ancient pictures which grace the walls — but there was the feeling of where this room was ; and of what we knew to be outside those closed shutters — a scene which is among the loveliest in England, a great mountain, a deep and still lake, the woods, the fells, the garden with its banks of laurel, the sheepfold and the farmstead, and all this under a brilliant moon, and far removed from any town — nay, even miles away from the neighbourhood of either hamlet or village. As we sat round the fire, far on into the night, we talked of how by one conveyance or another, and by the help of our own good legs, we had at length 282 Country Pleasures. brought ourselves to where we were. In the morning, at Moston, there was only a slight frost, but it was of that black and dry kind which usually lasts, and we were encouraged to start upon our journey. Once outside the veil of smoke which surrounds our great city, we began to see what a glorious day we were to have. We talk of winter being cheerless; why, the sun was more dazzlingly bright than we remembered to have seen it all through the summer. The sky by this time had put on a stainless blue ; and as the train darted through the copses and past the little orchard plots, we could see how beautifully the tree- stems were covered with pure green moss. At More- cambe we came in sight of the sea. The tide was rippling across the bay, and flocks of sheep were cropping the turf on the shore. We looked again and again at the colour of the sky and of the water, and after much careful comparison and discussion we came to the conclusion that, sitting out of the wind, not feeling the cold therefore, and judging by the eye alone, it would be impossible to say that the prospect before us was not that of summer. Turning inland, however, I should add that winter — the beauty of winter — was visible. The nearer hills along the romantic valley of the Kent had their belts of green holly and their russet patches of fallen bracken ; but December. 283 the higher and more distant mountains tcour great delight were seen to be wearing their grey capes of snow — grey, not white, be it observed. This was what we had come to see, and therefore we were already satisfied. At Grange-in-Cartmel we found the people skating on the shallow flats by the shore ; and although it was but a little past noon, the sun was already getting low and the look of the west across the Bay was singularly like that of evening. At Newby Bridge — surely one of the sweetest places in the land, and endeared to us by many pleasant recollections —we all concurred in the opinion that the tints of the landscape were those that were known to us as autumnal. The brown leaves were still hang- ing thickly on the beeches, the hills were red with ferns, and that river-like strip of water, which is the beginning of Windermere, could never have been brighter or more blue. At what is called Lake-side we took the steamer, and began our voyage of ten or eleven miles. As we pace the clean little deck we say to each other, ' How unlike this is to all our usual ideas of winter ! ' The sunlight was so strong that where the rays fell on the Lake there was a line too brilliant to be looked at ; and on each side of the boat the spray from the paddle-wheels made continuous rainbows. After we 284 Country Pleasures. pass Bowness and come into the higher and most northern reach of the Lake, a fierce wind sweeps down from the hills and the cold becomes intense. Everybody takes refuge now in the cabin except our- selves and a hardy-looking Westmoreland girl, who carries in her hand a bunch of flowers which rival in colour the healthy posy of her own face. As we come near to Waterhead, the waves are big, though blue ; and the crests of them are caught by the gust and blown over the boat. In the west we see the ' Coniston Old Man, a clear and knife-like ridge ; in front we make out Bowfell and the familiar forms of the Langdale Pikes ; and a little to the right there are the long steps of High Street and the round summit of Fairfield. All these loftier hills are whitened at the top, Fairfield in this respect being especially beautiful, the snow fading softly away at the edge of the basin under the peak and mingling gradually with the red and green on the lower part of the mountain. Loughrigg and Wansfell are quite free from snow, and the latter is remarkably verdant. As we passed through Ambleside we noticed that the place retained its cheerful appearance though there was none of the usual autumnal bustle. After looking at the ' Salutation Inn ' for the sake of old times we pushed rapidly forward. In the fading light December. 285 Rydal Mere looked beautiful as ever. Some of the bays were already frozen over, and along the margin we noticed many tall flowered reeds, which waved gracefully in the wind, and reminded us of the well- known lines about the Osmunda : — Plant lovelier, in its own retired abode On Grasmere's beach, than Naiad by the side Of Grecian brook, or Lady of the Mere, Sole-sitting by the shores of old romance. When we reached Grasmere it was a little after three o'clock, and the sun had already fallen behind the hills. " The crimson flush of sunset still lingered on the snow-clad summits, but the bases of the mountains were in deep shadow. As we walked merrily along the hard and frozen roads, and heard the sharp sound of our footsteps echoing among the hills, we naturally recalled, that inimitable sketch of Winter in the Lake-Country which occurs in the ' Prelude ' : — And in the frosty season, when the sun Was set, and visible for many a mile The cottage windows blazed through twilight gloom, I heeded not their summons : happy time It was indeed for all of us — for me It was a time of rapture ! Clear and loud The village clock tolled six, — I wheeled about, Proud and exulting like an untired horse That cares not for his home. . . . So through the darkness and the cold we flew 286 Country Pleasures. And not a voice was idle ; with the din Smitten, the precipices rang aloud ; The leafless trees and every icy crag Tinkled like iron ; while far distant hills Into the tumult sent an alien sound Of melancholy not unnoticed, while the stars Eastward were sparkling clear, and in the west The orange sky of evening died away. The twilight is deepening as we climb the ascent of Dunmail Raise, and at five o'clock we see the moon rise over the shoulder of Helvellyn and silver the farther bank of Thirlmere. And so we come at last into that quiet and delightful refuge which has already been introduced to the reader, and where we slept : — Lulled by sound Of far-off torrents charming the still night ; And to tired limbs and over-busy thoughts Inviting sleep and soft forgetfulness. XLIX.— WINTER IN THE LAKE-COUNTRY (continued). December 17. In the poems of Wordsworth there are not, besides the one already quoted, many conspicuous pictures of Winter. The dedication 6f the Duddon Sonnets to his brother furnishes one which has become December. 287 classical, and which is also characteristic of the Lake- Country. These are the two first stanzas : — The Minstrels played their Christmas tune To-night beneath my cottage-eaves ; While, smitten by a lofty moon, The encircling laurels, thick with leaves, Gave back a rich and dazzling sheen, That overpowered their natural gree/i. Through hill and valley every breeze Had sunk to rest with folded wings : Keen was the air, but could not freeze Nor check the music of the strings ; So stout and hardy were the band That scraped the chords with strenuous hand ! During our stay at Thirlmere I often thought of these lines, for we had the ' lofty moon ' each night, and the 'encircling laurels' looking as white as if they, like the hills behind them, had been covered with snow. In the same poem there is the following : — How touching, when, at midnight, sweep Snow-muffled winds, and all is dark, To hear — and sink again to sleep I Or, at an earlier call, to mark, By blazing fire, the still suspense Of self-complacent innocence. ' Snow-muffled winds ' has often seemed to me a singular expression ; but knowing how careful an observer of nature Wordsworth was, and how much he had of that sympathetic insight which is almost Country Pleasures. unerring, I felt sure that he had good reason for using the phrase. I was therefore not surprised to hear, as I walked after sunset on the terrace in front of the house, a strange and unusual sound made by the wind as it came down to me across the snow-covered breast of Helvellyn. It was indeed just what the poet says — ' muffled,' an ' eerie sough,' a subdued sob, the undertone of a covered string. If, however, we have not in Wordsworth's poetry so frequent a presentation of Winter as we might expect, there is one passage by him in prose which makes an ample recompense. It appears in that Description of the Country of the Lakes in the North of England which, though published so early as 1810, is superior to anything which has been written on the same subject. As it was this particular passage — known and pondered upon for many years — which sent us to the Lake-Country at this unusual season, and as it is at once excellent in expression and deli- cately true, the reader will pardon a somewhat copious extract : — ' Those who have studied the appearances of nature, feel that the superiority, in point of visual interest, of mountainous over other countries — is more strikingly displayed in winter than in summer. This, as must be obvious, is partly owing to the forms of the mountains, which, of course, are not affected by December. 289 the seasons; but also, in no small degree, to the greater variety that exists in their winter than their summer colouring. This variety is such, and so harmoniously preserved, that it leaves little cause of regret, when the splendour of autumn is passed away. The oak- coppices upon the sides of the mountains retain rus- set leaves, the birch stands conspicuous with its silver stem and puce-coloured twigs ; the hollies, with green leaves and scarlet berries, have come forth to view from among the deciduous trees, whose summer foliage had concealed them ; the ivy is now plentifully apparent upon the stems and boughs of the trees, and among the woody rocks. In place of the uniform summer-green of the herbage and fern, many rich colours play into each other over the surface of the mountains ; turf (the tints of which are interchangeably tawny-green, olive, and brown), beds of withered fern, and grey rocks being harmoniously blended together. The mosses and lichens are never so fresh and flourishing as in winter, if it be not a season of frost ; and their minute beauties prodigally adorn the foreground. Wherever we turn, we find these productions of nature, to which winter is rather favourable than unkindly, scattered over the walls, banks of earth, rocks, and stones, and upon the trunks of trees with the intermixture of several species of small fern, now green and fresh ; 290 Country Pleasures. and, to the observing passenger, their forms and colours are a source of inexhaustible admiration. Add to this the hoar-frost and snow, with all the varieties they create and which volumes would not be sufficient to describe.' Now all this is just what we have been witnessing ; not a single detail is exagger- ated; it is simply a faithful picture of what the Lake Country is on those days of winter which are no' deformed by mist or rain. Besides the unexpected splendour and harmom of colour which one finds, there are other thing! which should be noted, as making it worth while t( brave the cold of the mountains at this time. Tht air is clearer and more exhilarating than in thi autumn ; it is possible to travel much farther withou fatigue ; the frequent and troublesome tracts o marshy land on the fell-tops are now frozen hard and may be crossed without apprehension ; the view are more detailed, as well as more extensive ; and although it is true the days are short, yet by break fasting early and dining late you may have all th daylight in the open air, and find the time Ion enough for a walk which will sufficiently exhaus your power of endurance. And if, as in our case, i be the time of the full moon, you may, in the valley at least, take long excursions after dark. December. 29.1 As Thirlmere runs pretty nearly from south to north, it follows that either bank catches respectively the rising or the setting lights. Helvellyn on the eastern side is illuminated in the evening ; Armboth Fell, which is on the west, is silvered by the rising moon, and reddened by the sun in the morning. This latter aspect was very striking. At nine o'clock, the sun being invisible to us, we saw the precipitous Fell become gradually ensanguined ; the ground, the rocks, the fir-plantations and the faded ferns were all subdued, rather, I should say, were all heightened to one brilliant tone. After clearing the frost-tracery from the windows, we could see all this from within ; and when we came outside we could discern also that fresh snow had fallen on the hill-tops during the night, that the sky was clearing itself of cloud, and that towards Keswick especially it was already of a light and eager blue. We decided, therefore, to start at once for the hills. It was a cherished wish that we should, if possible, penetrate, even in this wintry time, into one of those lesser valleys, more remote still, and more primitive than that in which we al- ready were. We wished to see what kind of solitary life was led by the people in these places during the months of winter ; and we chose Watendlath as best suited to our purpose. U2 292 Country Pleasures. We start from Armboth Hall, and note, as part of our winter-picture, that a climbing rose is still bloom- ing freely on the trellised wall of the house. The Fell is close behind ; and, just at this point, it is broken by a ravine along which there is a practicable path. You pass first through a little wood. The* stream, though half-frozen, is still chattering among the big boulders. There is no lack of beautiful colour, for there are many tall green firs, and the hollies are both numerous and large. Even the leafless trees are attractive, for their bark is either white and clean or covered with tender moss ; and at the bottom, near the water, there is a mountain-ash still bravely adorned with scarlet berries. We have no need to hurry, and so we linger long in the wood, looking often backward to the blue lake which is seen now through the tree-stems. When we emerge from the wood we keep to the south bank of the stream. It is stiff climbing now, and we often pause to look round at the prospect. We find it a perfect paradise of what the painters call low tones — tones softened, subdued, melting into each other, and always in unbroken harmony. The bracken is dead, but the hard-fern is yet unfaded and all the mosses and lichens are green and grey on the rocks ; the rocks themselves being also green and December. 293 grey, but in endless variety of shade. Near the top we notice the fine stag's-horn moss and the juniper with its blue berries. Away in the north is Blen- cathra, one of the most striking mountain-masses in the district — a range of sharp buttresses covered about half-way down 'with deep and unbroken snow, the lower portion being tinged with a warm brown. The higher we ascend the more keen is the frost. - The streams are all sealed up and silent now ; but under the clear ice — so clear that although it is many inches thick it looks like water — we can see the little leaves and the blades of grass quite fresh and green. On the top of the Fell the snow begins to thicken, and there are great frozen banks of it in the hollows and under the peat-cuttings. The path disappears ; but we make for a cairn of stones in the centre of the waste, and then cast about for Watendlath. To the south are the desolate hills which rise above Easdale ; north is a strip of Basenthwaite Lake and the peak of Skiddaw ; and in the west the grand ranges of Borrowdale; but there is no sign of a human dwelling such as we expected to make out when we reached the summit. At length we discover a path rising up a steep hill far away in front of us, and we conclude that, although Watendlath is invisible, this track 294 Country Pleasures. must indicate its neighbourhood. Taking it for a mark, we strike towards it across the pathless moor- land. In a little while we meet a shepherd, and he tells us that we are going in the right direction ; Watendlath, still unseen, is under the brow of the steep Fell which we are now crossing, and the path we see is that which rises from it and leads over into Rosthwaite. If we hold straight on and go down by a ' fir planting,' as he calls it, we shall drop into the hamlet we are in search of. This shepherd is a fine fellow, tall and lithe, and characteristic of the country ; clear and healthy both in mind and body — a man without disguises. He is going with his dog to Wythburn to bring back two strayed sheep of which he has heard. It is a long way, truly; and it will be deep night before he regains his home ; but he sees no sign of storm and there will be plenty of moon- light, and he knows all the way. As we watch this good shepherd disappear across the mountain, bent upon his long journey thither and back, is it unnatural that we should fall to thinking of that Good Shep- herd — the great seeker of the lost, whose words have comforted and will comfort humanity in every age ? ' How little changed,' we said, ' are the universal sources of imagery ; and how enduring the few simple facts which lie at the root of man's spiritual nature ! ' December. 295 The descent into Watendlath is very steep and slippery, and more than once our feet are taken from under us. What a wild and lonely place it is — hidden away in its own narrow gorge between the larger vales of Thirlmere and Borrowdale ! There it is — four solitary farms, and no more ; two clumps of gaunt firs ; a score or two of pollard willows, and a small frozen tarn. On no side is there access or departure except by stiff climbing. In one of the farms we find an unaffected welcome and honest fare— bread and butter, oaten cake, milk and cheese. Our hostess, we discover, is the wife of the shepherd whom we met on the Fell. A visitor in winter is a rare thing, and she is glad to talk with us freely as we sit round the comfortable fire. They have seven hundred sheep on their farm ; the sheep are let with the land and when their lease expires they must deliver up the same number to the land- lord. If there is improvement or deterioration in the stock there will be compensation paid or demanded accordingly. Their sheep feed on the Watendlath side of the Fell, and go up to where the water falls. Other flocks are on the Armboth side. ' How,' we ask, ' can they know their own sheep ? ' ' They are all marked,' she says', ' each farm has its own mark, and these are registered in what is called a Shepherd's 296 Country Pleasures. book.' Their mark is, first, a peculiar cut on the ear called ' spoon-shank,' and next the ' smit,' of red colour on the wool, one daub being put upon a wether and two on the ' gimmer' sheep, or ewes. While we are talking a lame old man totters into the house. He will have been in Watendlath sixty years come next Lady-day. He is the politician and reading-man of the little community. He has two sons in America. Many people send him newspapers, and he reads all day and can see without 'glasses.' The shepherd's wife evidently regards his great learning partly with admiration, partly with amusement. She knows nothing of politics — she leaves all that to John Green. We might have spent hours in the pleasant farm- kitchen, but we knew how soon the night would fall, and must needs be gone. When we are half-way up the Fell-side on our return, it is a little after two o'clock, and already the light of evening is in the air. It seems as if all the hamlet is out sliding on the blue tarn. We can hear the cocks crowing, and the voices of women and children, and even the plough- boy's shoon grinding on the ice. The shepherd's wife, though a staid matron, is sliding too ; we know her by her red kerchief and can hear her shrill scream and the laughter of the children when she falls full length on the slide. It is an idyllic picture, and we December. 297 are sorry to leave it ; but on the open Fell, when we are once more away from all human neighbourhood, we get the grandest spectacle of all our journey. The sun is setting now, and the crimson light is streaming into Borrowdale, and, as it seems, from many points of the sky at the same time. On some hills the snow is flushed with rose ; on others it is a cold and spectral blue ; while in the east the colour is that of brilliant silver, white but glistening; and below, in the deep valleys where the snow is not lying, and where the dark has already fallen, the tone is brown, purple, even black. No words can convey the large and awful beauty of such a scene. The feeling only can be given ; and even that so inadequately in any language of mine that I fall back instinctively on those memorable lines in the First Book of The Excursion, which certainly express, better than any other words have yet been able to do, the relation which Nature bears to the soul in the hour of supreme contact : — Sound needed none, Nor any voice of joy ; his spirit drank The spectacle : . . Thought was not : in enjoyment it expired. No thanks he breathed, he proffered no request ; Rapt into still communion that transcends The imperfect offices of prayer and praise, His mind was a thanksgiving to the Power That made him ; it was blessedness and love ! 298 Country Pleasures. L.—AN OLD-FASHIONED WINTER. December 24. In the middle of November I recorded a storm of snow — the first heavy fall of the present winter. After that we had fog and intermittent frost — sharp frost at night and thaw in the day, often accompanied by rain. To those, however, who were carefully watching the weather-signs it was clear that Winter in his most savage mood was gradually approaching and drawing his lines so closely around us that we should soon find ourselves in a state of siege. On the first day of December there was no frost, and the sun rose brightly in a crimson sky; but, almost immediately, a violent wind sprang up in the north-west and dashed a whole hemisphere of clouds into his face. A few gleams of light followed, but the sun was beaten ; and since then we have had frost every day. Gradually the pond began to be covered with ice ; but the geese were still able with wing and foot to break it in a morning. On the night of the third, when there was clear moonlight, I watched the ducks paddling about their wooden house while the ice could be seen forming slowly round them. The next morning two large Muscovy ducks were able to walk across; but the ice bent under their heavy tread, December. 299 and made a sound which was singularly like the whistling of a bird. On the sixth, one of my boys, over-anxious to begin skating, ventured a little way from the edge, but it was not safe, and he was peremptorily withdrawn. It was not until the tenth that our pond, which is large, had got beyond sus- picion. The thermometer was then marking, during the night, about fifteen degrees of frost ; and the long-coveted opportunity had come at last. Straps were buckled on, and the characteristic sport of winter began in good earnest :— All shod with steel, We hissed along the polished ice in games Confederate, imitative of the chase And woodland pleasures, — the resounding horn, The pack loud chiming, and the hunted hare. Or as the earlier poet puts it, swept — On sounding skates, a thousand different ways, In circling poise, swift as the winds, along. This skating, night after night, was a pleasant thing even for those elders who were but spectators, or who at best could only follow the flying couples in a laggard and halting fashion. At the edge of the pond is the Winter-house, where we had a great fire, and into which we could retreat for warmth or re- freshment. Besides this we had a fire in a cresset on the bank, and candles placed at intervals, so that, as 300 Country Pleasures. the skaters swirled about, cutting their mysterious figures — their ' double eights,' and ' threes,' and ' sixes,' the ' outside edge,' and the ' Dutch roll,' — all sorts of grotesque shadows were projected across the ice. Then, later on, the moon would rise, putting out the twinkling candles and making a dull line of light along the pond. A still lower degree of temperature was reached in the early morning of the fourteenth, when there were twenty-two degrees of frost. On that day there was also a dense white mist, which increased the cold, and made a walk in the open air very like a bath in freezing water. The icicles on the windows were two feet long, and the trees were so thickly coated with rime that adjacent buildings were, I observed, just as much hidden as they are by the leaves in early sum- mer. This was, naturally enough, the prelude to a heavy fall of snow which began on the fifteenth. The immediate effect was a scene of unique beauty in the wood. All the tree-trunks were covered with a thin veil of frozen mist, which made them grey in colour, and which in a curious manner revealed — or one might say intensified — all the texture and tracery of the bark,- bringing out each accidental contortion of growth as well as the symmetrical rings, for instance, which surround the place where the branch starts December. 301 from the bole. And then, on the top of this, and resting on every irregularity or projection, came the new-fallen snow, a perfect white, harmonising won- derfully with the grey. This effect, which was quite distinct from thai of ordinary rime, and which I have never seen either painted or described, was most conspicuous on the smooth and fluted limbs of the beeches. Since the fifteenth the snow has continued falling from time to time, and in the country has not melted at all. It is now from seven to twelve inches deep in the garden ; and, having been frozen again and again, it crunches under foot with a shrill treble sound. The boys have been in great force ; to them the sight of snow is an intoxicant, and they are always dashing out and into it for reasons known only to themselves. Of course we have had great snowballs and snow-men and snow-forts. To see the snow at its best, however, one must leave the garden and travel as far as The Moss ; and the best time to see it is in the early afternoon. It is not without difficulty that we make our way along the narrow lanes, for in some places they are almost blocked with drift. Here on a farm-yard pond, from which the snow has been swept, are some score of rustics skating. Although their movements are not 302 Country Pleasures. what would be called graceful, their style shows a dash and a vigour which would be wanting in a more polished performance. How strange and wild the vast waste of snow looks as we move along always in a bounding circle of mist ! There is certainly some- thing fascinating even in its monotony, and in its apparent endlessness, as the fog falls back and one reach after another comes into sight. The marl-pits are only distinguishable now by the few tufts of rushes which show here and there above the surface of the snow-covered ice. Though the sky is enve- loped in thick cloud, we know that the sun is setting. In the north-east the scattered farms and the clumps of trees are grey with a tinge of blue ; but in the south-west they are grey with a- tinge of yellow, and that is all that we shall see of the sunset. At our feet, and immediately around us, everything is intensely black and intensely white ; so much so that we are startled, and turn with relief to the softer distance. It will soon be dark now, and the boys propose that we should scramble home by the Clough. Here the snow is twelve inches deep on the level ; in the hollows it is much deeper ; and, as we cannot always see where the hollows are, we are often more than knee-deep. It is fine exercise, however, and a pleasant pastime, even though, once or twice, we December. 303 come down ingloriously at full length, and get the cold and powdery snow up our sleeve or behind the shirt-collar. Coming at last across the fields near home, we find that the lights already glimmering in the windows are not unneedful as a guide to lead us in the right direction. In July, I was writing of 'Tropical Summer'; surely this may be called an Arctic Winter. We were then creeping under the trees for shade, with a thermometer marking 113 degrees at half-past five in the evening ; now we are freezing indoors ; milk is congealed into a hard mass; water served at table has lumps of ice in it ; and eggs when stripped of their shells are found to be so frozen that they can be rolled about like stones. The lowest temperature, so far, was reached last night, when the thermometer fell to 5 above zero, that being 27 degrees of frost. The day has also been almost entirely dark — dark even at noon — and the sensation of cold was much intensified by fog. We do not remember to have ever seen a morning which realised for us so vividly that dreary and death-like gloom which we associate with those regions where the reign of Winter is never broken. As we walked along the dark and frozen alleys of the garden we found ourselves, under the influence of certain old associations, crooning over that fine song 304 Country Pleasures. of poor Tannahill's— ' The Braes of Gleniffer.' The minstrels of Scotland, even if we include Burns, have rarely done anything better : — Keen blaws the wind o'er the braes o' Gleniffer, The auld castle's turrets are covered wi' snaw; How changed frae the time when I met wi' my lover, Amang the broom bushes by Stanley green shaw : The wild flowers o' simmer were spread a' sae bonnie, The mavis sung sweet frae the green birken tree ; But far to the camp they ha'e marched my dear Johnnie, And now it is winter wi' nature and me. Then ilk thing around us was blythesome and cheerie, Then ilk thing around us was bonnie and braw ; Now naething is heard but the wind whistling dreary, And naething is seen but the wide-spreading snaw. The trees are a' bare, and the birds mute and dowie ; They shake the cauld drift frae their wings as they flee, And chirp out their plaints, seeming wae for my Johnnie ; 'Tis winter wi' them and 'tis winter wi' me. Yon cauld sleety cloud skiffs alang the bleak mountain, And shakes the dark firs on the steep rocky brae, While down the deep glen bawls the snaw-flooded fountain, That murmur'd sae sweet to my laddie and me. 'Tis no its loud roar on the wintry wind swellin', 'Tis no the cauld blast brings the tear i' my e'e, For, oh, gin I saw but my bonnie Scots callan, The dark days o' winter were simmer to me ! And yet, even in these dark days of winter, there is beauty to be found if only we look for it. When I shook the snow off our yellow-jasmine I found the buds growing underneath ; and my friend the Painter has December. 305 just brought in, for me to look at, two sketches made in a garden close by, and during this inclement weather. One is a brown spray of willow on which are the swelling purple buds which mean foliage next spring ; the other is a delicate sprig from a rose-tree, and shows, still hanging, two bright scarlet hips. The first is a prophecy, the second is a reminiscence ; and both are lovely bits of colour discovered amid the sterility of winter. The poor birds are having an evil time of it ; but we are doing all we can to help them. We have established ce'rtain feeding-places by the windows of the house, and in remote parts of the garden, to which they come regularly in great numbers. Around one of these crumb-pots there are hundreds of little footmarks in the snow : they are chiefly those of sparrows and robins; but- the larger birds come also. Rooks and larks and blackbirds have been frequently seen eating with the smaller creatures. True to his character, the robin has ventured indoors : we have found him even in a bedroom. There have been other mouths, however, to fill besides those of the birds. Here, in Moston, as else- where, we have found many cold hearths and empty cupboards. The children have claimed our first atten- tion, and their wants have been ministered to by the 306 Country Pleasures. same little hands which have helped me to feed the starving birds. The other day, as two small boys, hungry and frozen, were being thawed and fed before the kitchen fire, they were overheard saying to each other as they looked wistfully at the great blaze which was just then roaring up the chimney — ' If we had only a fire like that ! ' ' And what sort of fire, then, is it that you have ? ' ' Oh, we have none at all. We did scrape some coals together and made one this morning, but it went out at ten o'clock, and mother had no more coal and no more money.' And all this was but the literal truth, and only a slight indication of much that was behind it, and of what was going on during this fearful weather in scores of poor cottage-homes. Many, however, were ready to help ; and thoughtful men have thankfully acknow- ledged that one of the compensations of the time has consisted in the fact that an old-fashioned winter has brought forth a plentiful manifestation of old-fashioned charity. LI.— CHRIST MA S-E VB. Moston : December 30. Although Christmas-Eve was probably the darkest and coldest day that had been known for twenty December. 307 years, we were not to be debarred from our usual festivity indoors. Indeed, the frost and gloom without gave, as one might expect, an added zest to cheeriness within. Of all the nights in the year this, which ushers in the great Festival of the Nativity, is the dearest to us, and the fullest of sweet remem- brances. Not only do the associations of centuries cluster around it, but every year of one's own life, from childhood onward, has added to it some new grace of memory. In summing up its attractions we perceive that religion, literature, romance, the domestic life, and the charm of the country, all contribute their share. Toiling homeward along the frozen lane I see that, though the mist still clings to the earth, the upper sky is becoming visible — black, however, not blue, and showing faintly a few isolated stars. The trees are white; the fields are white, the snow is deep ; and, when the opened door which had sent forth a broad band of ruddy light closes behind us, we admit that in external circumstance at least our Christmas- Eve is all that could be desired. The first thing to be thought of in a country-house is the seasonable decoration. And the prime requi- site is that it must be plentiful : to make it sparse is to do worse than nothing. We want boughs, and great x 2 308 Country Pleasures. ones too, not scattered sprigs and leaves. It is scarcely possible to pile on too much, and in the hall, at any rate, one should hardly be able to see one's way for greenery. We get most of our material in our own garden, making it an opportunity for pruning and trimming the evergreens. The mistletoe and laurel we are obliged to buy. As it is our fancy not to begin this work until after nightfall on Christmas- Eve itself, there is plenty to be done. The labour, however, is part of the evening's enjoyment, and there are many ready to help. It is a picture very pleasant to me when I see the huge heap of ever- greens in the middle of the floor and the fire-light playing among the glossy leaves. Then the ladders are brought in, and the young folks soon cover the walls with wreaths and festoons of green, the boys handing up the branches to the girls, who know best how to dispose them most gracefully. As I sit by and watch I recall to myself, or repeat for the recreation of the decorators, some of the many passages in our old writers in which this English custom is alluded to : — Lo! now is come our joyful'st Feast! Let every Man be jolly; Each Roome with Yvie leaves is drest, And every Post with Holly. December. 309 That comes from a carol by George Wither. This is from a Christmas Song published in 1695 : — With holly and ivy So green and so gay, We deck up our houses As fresh as the day, With bays and rosemary, And laurel compleat, And every one now Is a king in conceit. In Herrick's Christmas ' Caroll sung to the King in the presence at Whitehall,' the ' Musical Part ' of which was composed by that Mr. Henry Lawes who was Milton's friend, we have the following : — The darling of the world is come, And fit it is we finde a room To welcome Him. The nobler part Of all the house here is the heart, Which we will give Him, and bequeath This hollie and this ivie wreath, To do Him honour, who's our King, And Lord of all this revelling. Old Thomas Tusser is in a different vein : as usual, he is homely and eminently practical : — Get Iuye and hull, woman deck up thyne house : And take this same brawne, for to seeth and to souse. Prouide us good chere, for thou know'st the old guise : Olde customes, that good be, let no man dispise. 310 Country Pleasures. At Christmas be mery, and thanke God of all ; And feast thy pore neighbours, the great with the small. Yea, al the yere long, haue an eie to the poore : And God shall sende luck, to kepe open thy doore. When the decoration is finished the logs are put upon the fire, and another little ceremony begins. The Christmas tree is brought in and hung with glittering trifles ; and then a certain ancient, having donned a suitable robe, and wearing for the nonce a flowing beard, comes with a loud knocking to the door. The lights are turned down, and he is led in. His hat and shoon are of the colour of his beard. He is fondly supposed to have made a long journey through the snow ; and when he takes his seat in an accustomed chair he lays his hands on the heads of the little ones and gives them the blessing of Father Christmas. When this ' disguisyng and mummyng,' which an old author says ' is used in Christemas tyme in the Northe partes' is over, the more hilarious spirits betake them to their beds, and we settle down to a condition of quiet and peaceful enjoyment, no small part of which consists in turning over the pages of sundry well-worn volumes which on this night are always taken from their shelves and laid upon the table. They are old, old friends. We know them almost by heart, and our fingers turn involuntarily to the Christmas passages which we like best. We open December. 311 first the Lesser Passion of Albert Diirer that we may see once more his quaint picture of the Nativity, and then we turn to La Mort D' Arthur and read :■ — ' Then Berlin went to the Archbishop of Canter- bury, and counselled him to send for all the lords of the realm, and all the gentlemen of arms, that they should come to London before Christmas, upon pain of cursing, and for this cause, that as Our Lord was born on that night, that He would of His great mercy show some miracle, as He was come to be King of all mankind, who should be rightwise King of this realm. So the Archbishop, by the advice of Merlin, sent for all the lords and gentlemen of arms that they should come by Christmas-Eve to London. And many of them made them clean of their lives that their prayer might be the more acceptable to God.' Our Shakspere opens at ' Hamlet,' and gives us by the mouth of Marcellus the well-known and charming speech : — Some say that ever 'gainst that season comes Wherein our Saviour's birth is celebrated, The bird of dawning singeth all night long : And then, they say, no spirit dares stir abroad ; The nights are wholesome ; then no planets strike, No fairy takes, nor witch hath power to charm, So hallow'd and so gracious is the time. With Horatio we answer : — So have I heard, and do in part believe it. 312 Country Pleasures. From Milton's ' Ode ' we choose to read the two follow- ing stanzas : — But peaceful was the night, Wherein the Prince of Light His reign of peace upon the earth began. The winds with wonder whist, Smoothly the waters kissed, Whispering new joys to the mild Ocean, Who now hath quite forgot to rave, While birds of calm sit brooding on the charmed wave. The shepherds on the lawn, Or ere the point of dawn, Sat simply chatting in a rustic row ; Full little thought they then, That the mighty Pan Was kindly come to live with them below : Perhaps their loves, or else their sheep, Was all that did their silly thoughts so busy keep. Then I turn to good George Herbert and run over that Christmas Carol which begins — The shepherds sing; and shall I silent be ? My God, no hymme for thee ? and to that other which was sung by a kindred spirit — Henry Vaughan : — Awake, glad heart ! get up and sing ! It is the Birth-day of thy King Awake I awake ! After these I pass to two modern books, Wash- ington Irving and In Memoriam. From the first December. 313 I cull the following, which stands at the head of the ever-delightful series of essays on the subject of Christmas : — ' But is old, old, good old Christmas gone ? No- thing but the hair of his good, grey, old head and beard left ? Well, I will have that, seeing I cannot have more of him.' And from the second these three stanzas which suit the circumstances of the present night, and which are among the sweetest in the language : — The time draws near the birth of Christ : The moon is hid ; the night is still ; The Christmas bells from hill to hill Answer each other in the mist. Four voices of four hamlets round, From far and near, on mead and moor, Swell out and fail, as if a door Were shut between me and the sound : Each voice four changes in the wind, That now dilate, and now decrease, Peace and goodwill, goodwill and peace, Peace and goodwill, to all mankind. By this time the hour of midnight strikes. It is Christmas morning ; and after we have sung together John Byrom's time-honoured hymn, to its own old tune, I find myself alone — alone with the memory of the dead. It is the evil spirit which dares not stir abroad to-night ; the good surely may ; and when I 314 Country Pleasures. draw back the curtain from the window they seem to pass before me in a long line across the snow. There, I see, in that strange procession, some of the sweetest faces I have ever known — sweet still, and solemn, but not sad. When I go back to the fire, now sinking into dimness, I revert once more to the pages of the Silurist, and his words are on my lips : — They are all gone into the world of light ! - And I alone sit ling'ring here ! Their very memory is fair and bright, And my sad thoughts doth clear. Some hours later the carol-singers were under the window. Their voices rang out clearly in the keen morning air ; and, through a little aperture which I made in the frost-tracery, I could just make out their quaint faces glimmering large and red in the light of an old lantern which one of the party held aloft in his hand. LII.— CONCLUSION : THE OLD YEAR ENDED, AND THE NEW YEAR BEGUN. January 8, 1879. The morning of Christmas-Day was the brightest we had seen since the beginning of the frost. The memorable fog of the previous day had entirely dis- appeared, and although the cold was still severe — in January. 315 the night it had been more intense than ever, the thermometer marking as low as four degrees above zero — yet the sky was so blue, and the thin air so full of clear sunlight, that as we passed through the gar- den and down the lane on our way to that Morning Service which is the most joyous of all the year, my delight found a half-articulate expression in the vague burden of an old carol which I used to hear sung in the streets when I was a boy — All the bells in heaven shall ring, In heaven shall ring, in heaven shall ring ; All the bells in heaven shall ring, On Christmas-day in the morning. After church was over, there was time enough, before dinner, to make an accustomed round of visits among our neighbours — rich and poor alike — and to wish them, as we had done for who knows how many years before, Merry Christmas and a Good New Year. These old customs may become mere Use and Wont — Old sisters of a day gone by, Grey nurses, loving nothing new ; but why should they ? They are the consecrated symbols of a healthy and an honest feeling, and each may determine for himself whether they shall sink into hollow forms or remain still the picturesque expressions of a genuine emotion. 316 Country Pleasures. A Christmas-Day without its long and somewhat ceremonious dinner would be a poor thing indeed ; but we need not linger over it here. I will only pause to note that for me it remains in the memory chiefly as part of that exquisite winter-picture which, at the time, was seen through the windows ; and that for table-decoration we managed to get from the greenhouse, notwithstanding the cold, a bright little geranium, a white camellia, and a large pot of fresh green ferns. If the children were asked their opinion they would probably say that the most memorable thing was the huge pudding ; and that for them the moment of triumph was when, the curtains having been drawn close so as to shut out what little light remained, the said pudding was brought in, shoulder- high, wreathed with blue flames, and crowned with a sprig of holly — a pudding in apotheosis. When dinner had been fully discussed, and all observances duly disposed of, we adjourned to the garden and had a long bout of skating. The pond had been entirely covered with snow ; but by the use of spade and brush a meandering path had been cut, along which the skaters could pass. Standing at the edge, the black ice looked like a narrow river running between white banks. After dark, candles were lighted and stuck in the snow. As they burnt down January. 317 they melted a little hollow for themselves, at the bottom of which the light could still be seen, making a green glimmer very like that of a glow-worm. Late at night a wind rose in the east and brought with it a drift of fine snow, which swept over everything and into everything, filling the eyes and ears, and clinging to the beard in frozen clots. This wind proved to be the beginning of a thaw ; and on the next day the water dropping from the trees, and the snow sometimes falling in lumps, made a sound like the pattering of many feet. The twenty- ninth was clear and warm ; but in the afternoon, while it was yet daylight, there was a curious inter- polation of frost, sudden and short, for it lasted only about an hour. The period of its continuance was marked by the brilliancy of the new moon. A friend tells me that during this time his bees were killed by scores. The sun tempted them out, and then the quick frost caught them before they could get back to the hives. On the thirtieth the grass on the lawn, which the snow had hidden for weeks, became visible once more ; and on the last day of the year, the ther- mometer not having gone below 42 degrees even in the night, and a heavy wind helping the sun, the snow entirely disappeared, except in those hollows and corners which are always in shadow. 3 I 8 Country Pleasures. The eve of the New Year, like that of Christmas, has with us its own observances. For this night the largest log is kept. It is also lighted with last year's brand and with a piece of mistletoe saved from last year's bough. Herrick includes this amongst his Ceremonies for Christmas : — Come, bring with a noise, My merrie, merrie boyes, The Christmas log to the firing ; While my good dame, she Bids ye all be free, And drink to your hearts' desiring. With the last yeere's brand Light the new block, and For good successe in his spending, On your psaltries play, That sweet luck may Come while the log is a teending. When the log is well burning, the Wassail is com- pounded with much ingenious care, and brought in with a song. The company, seated in a circle round the fire, touch their glasses, and say — ' Hael, hael, wassail.' Then one of their number rises, and, half reading, half " chanting, runs over, as he has done, every year since In Memoriam was published, that noble valediction which expresses so compendiously, and yet with such completeness, the drift of modern thought. January. 319 Ring out, wild bells, to the wild sky, The flying cloud, the frosty light : The year is dying in the night ; Ring out, wild bells, and let him die. Ring in the valiant man and free — The larger heart, the kindlier hand ; Ring out the darkness of the land ; Ring in the Christ that is to be. After this, as it wants but a few minutes to twelve, the scene changes to the open air; and the group gathers closely together on a little rising ground under a line of beeches, and awaits in silence the stroke of the hour. The night is warm and the wind west. The half-moon is setting and the clouds drift against her as she sinks. The tree-tops are wildly tossed about. But for this, there would be neither sound nor motion. How long the last minute seems ! At length the silence is broken by the firing of a gun, and then comes the big bell far away in the city, and the joyous peal ringing at once from many steeples. We have entered on another year; and, as many old friends join their hands once more in a fervent grasp, each knows that the others are thinking — What will it bring ? Life or death ; loss or gain ? The first day of the New Year brought back the frost, which has continued until now. The morning was clear ; the pond had a thin coating of ice ; and 3 20 Country Pleasures. the lanes were hardening again as we started for a long walk across The Moss to a certain village where, according to established custom on this day, we were to dine at an old country inn. It is pleasant walking among the farms and cottages, surrounded as they ■all seem to be by laughing children and cackling poultry. The people are mostly out of doors and in holiday guise. Though the morning is yet early a few are already in a state of mellow civility, the result of much drinking of healths. Here is an old acquaintance — John the Mower. Although past threescore, few men in all the country-side could handle a scythe better than he can, even now. His face is of that kind which, notwithstanding grey hairs, will remain child-like to the end — small in feature, fresh in colour, and open in expression. As he stands at the door his head is bare, and his clean white shirt is rolled back from his breast as if the day had been one of summer. His eyes twinkle as he comes up to me, and the smile on his face indicates an inward ques- tioning as to his condition ; but he puts out his rough hand at a venture, and says in his own quaint way — ' Aye well ; aye, to be sure — if we could be ever as we are now — full of good meat and drink — meat and drink.' While dinner is preparing at the inn we spend an January. 321 hour in and about the Village Church. It is a very ancient structure standing on a considerable eminence. From it a wide view may be got over the moorland country which lies north and east. The date of its erection is unknown ; but an arch between the nave and the tower is evidently Norman. There are many curious brasses on the floor of the chancel, and an oak screen of the time of Henry VIII. ; but perhaps the most interesting thing is a coloured window which is said to represent the bowmen who went from the village to the Battle of Flodden Field, under the command of a certain Sir Richard Assheton, grand- son of Sir Rafe, who was Knight Marshal of England in the reign of Edward IV. Of this band there are seventeen, all kneeling, with their chaplain in front, and across each man's shoulders are slung his bow and the sheaf of arrows. The tower of the church is both singular and picturesque. It is built of stone like the church ; but it is surmounted by a four- gabled structure of wood, in which are hung the bells. Into this chamber we climbed, making our way up the dark and worn stone stairs. Through the chinks in the timber we could discern the village at the foot of the hill, and the hostelry where we were to dine — as quaint a place as may anywhere be seen, with its grey and leaning gables, its black-and-white timbered 322 Country Pleasures. front, and its huge buttresses projecting on to the pavement. In the Old Boar's Head there was a large consumption of roast-beef and mince-pie by old and young alike ; and in the evening a sharp walk home, taking the Clough in our way. The next day the frost became severe again ; and on the morning of the third we found that there had been a fresh fall of snow. When I went to feed the birds I saw by their foot-marks that, impatient for my coming, they had already been to the crumb-pot looking for breakfast. As the snow was quite new I could make out the different kinds of birds by the size and the depth of the imprint. The robin's foot seems the lightest of all. The trees were once more arrayed in their white dress — the hollies covered on the top, but black underneath ; the rhododendrons bent down with a shapeless load : the deciduous trees powdered all over, and the firs most beautiful of all. On the fourth, we had the finest sunset of all the winter. At four o'clock the frozen trees were trans- formed to a brilliant pink, and rose-coloured clouds were drifting across the sky. Yesterday the wind changed to the east ; but the frost continues. To-night the moon is at full, the sky clear, the cold intense, the shadows black and sharp on the snow, and the wind so violent that it January. 323 makes a great roaring in the trees. The skating is at its best again, for the wind keeps the ice smooth and bright. One of my boys has just been in to say that he has skated three miles without stopping by making the circuit of the pond some fifty times ; and another tells me that by holding a kind of sail in his hands he has been driven along the ice as a boat would be on the water. Earlier in the evening I had myself a splendid run in the sledge, two good skaters pulling in front and another pushing behind. Nothing more exhilarating can be conceived than this sledge-riding. To paraphrase Wordsworth — -we give our bodies to the wind ; the shadowy banks on either side spin round and sweep past us ; and even when we have stopped, they still wheel on as if — The earth had rolled With visible motion her diurnal round ! All this, however, is the bright side of winter. It is too good to last, and we must not expect to escape the dreary and dolorous days which have surely yet to come. But, when these are over, we know what awaits us. In my first Notes, which were written on the seventeenth of January in last year, I drew atten- tion to the bright colour of the new leaves on the young foxglove plants. This year, on the sloping bed Y2 324 Country Pleasures. beneath the leafless thorns, I have already seen the same thing; and so the round of the changeful seasons and my simple record of them are both completed together ; and I bid the patient reader farewell with my best New Year's greeting and this last word for his comfort : — If Winter comes can Spring be far behind. INDEX OF QUOTATIONS, MISCELLANEOUS NOTES, AND GENERAL INDEX. AN INDEX OF QUOTATIONS. ■*. William Wordsworth, ' To my Sister,' Works, vol. v. p. 17. 5. Lord Bacon, Essay, 'Of Gardens.' 6. John Ruskin, Oxford Lectures. 7. Percy Bysshe Shelley, ' Summer and Winter.' 12. Dante, The Inferno, Canto ix. Trans. J. W. Thomas. 12. ,, „ ,, „ 12. S. T. Coleridge, ' The Ancient Mariner,' Part i. 12. Alfred Tennyson, Idylls of the King, ' Guinevere.' 12. ,, ,, ' The Passing of Arthur.' 14. William Cowper, The Task, Book v. L. 11. 17. Alfred Tennyson, Poems, ' St. Agnes.' 18. Sir Philip Sidney, ' Astrophel and Stella,' xxxi. 18. William Wordsworth, ' Intimations of Immortality,' Works, vol. v. P- 337- 18. Percy Bysshe Shelley, ' To a Skylark.' 20. Alfred Tennyson, Poems, ' CEnone.' 21. Sebastian Evans, Poems, 1865, ' Crocus-Gathering,' p. 196. 21. John Milton, Paradise Lost, Book iv. L. 700. 30. Sir Walter Scott, 'The Bridal of Triermain,' Canto i. Sts. xii. and xiii. 31. Alfred Tennyson, Idylls of the King, ' Vivien.' 34. Robert Herrick, ' Ceremony upon Candlemas Eve. ' 35. Old Ballad: Rcliques of Ancient English Poetry, 'Sir Patrick Spence.' 35. S. T. Coleridge, ' Dejection : An Ode.' 38. William Wordsworth, ' I wandered lonely,' Works, vol. ii. p. 93. 39. Dorothy Wordsworth, Memoirs of Wordsworth, vol. i. p. 182. 328 An Index of Quotations. PAGE 3g. William Wordsworth, Memoirs, vol. i. p. 188. 40. Michael Drayton, ' The Ninth Eclogue.' 41. Robert Herrick, ' To Daffadils.' 41. William Shakspere, The Winter's Tale, Act iv. Sc. iii. 41. ,, ,, Act iv. Sc. iv. 43. James Thomson, The Seasons, ' Spring.' 44. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, lxxxii. 46. ,, The Princess. 4g. Geoffrey Chaucer, The Canterbury Tales, ' The Milleres Tale.' 50.- Charles Lamb, Correspondence, p. 30. 51. Robert Herrick, 'To Dianeme : A Ceremonie in Glocester.' 53. Charles Lamb, Essays of Elia, 'All Fools' Day.' 54. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. ii. ' To the Small Celandine.' 54. ,, Memoirs, vol. i. p. 189. 56. Thomas Tusser, Five Hundred Pointes, ' A Description of the Properties of Windes.' 61. Geoffrey Chaucer, ' The Prologe of Nine Goode Wymmen.' 62. William Shakspere, Lucrece, L. 393. 62. ,, Love's Labour's Lost, Act v. Sc. ii. 63. John Milton, ' L'AUegro,' L. 75. 63. ,. ' Comus,' L. 120. 63. Robert Herrick, ' To Daisies, not to shut so soone.' 64. Robert Burns, ' To a Mountain Daisy.' 64. P. B. Shelley, ' The Question.' 64. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. ii. ' To the Daisy, 1805.' 68. Charlotte Bronte, Jane Eyre, Chap. xxx. 6g. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. i. 'Foresight.' 70. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, lxxxii. 73. William Shakspere, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Act i. Sc. i. 75. Robert Herrick, ' Corinna's going a Maying.' 76. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. v. ' Intimations of Immor- tality.' 80. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. i. 'The Sparrow's Nest.' 81. J. R. Lowell, ' To the Dandelion.' 84. John Milton, ' Song on May Morning.' 84. „ ' Lycidas.' 84. William Morris, The Earthly Paradise, ' May.' An Index of Quotations. 329 PAGE 86. Frederick Tennyson, Days and Hours, ' Mayday.' 87. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, lxxxii. 8g. Christopher Marlowe, 'The Passionate Shepherd.' 8g. Robert Southey, ' The Holly Tree. ' g2. Robert Stephen Hawker, ' A Legend of the Hive.' 95. Henry Vaughan, Sacred Poems, ' Departed Friends.' 98. Alfred Tennyson, Poems, ' The Talking Oak.' 102. Henry Vaughan, Sacred Poems, ' Thed3ird. ' 104. Alfred Tennyson, Poems, ' The Blackbird.' 107. Robert Herrick, ' Ceremonies for Candlemasse Eve.' 109. P. B. Shelley, 'To a Skylark.' no. Alfred Tennyson, Maud, etc., 'To the Rev. F. D. Maurice.' no. Thomas Gray, ' Elegy written in a Country Churchyard.' 115. George Herbert, The Temple, ' Sunday.' 116. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. ii. ' To the Cuckoo.' 116. John Logan, Poems, ' Ode to the Cuckoo.' ng. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. i. 'The Longest Day.' 120. Barnaby Googe, ' The Popish Kingdome.' 122. William Cowper, The Task, ' The Sofa,' L. 307. 125. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, lxxxviii. 126. Robert Burns, 'To a Mouse.' 129. Goethe, Faust, ' Prologue,' Shelley's Trans. 132. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, liv. 134. Isaac Watts, ' There is a land of pure delight.' 135. Matthew Arnold, 'Thyrsis: A Monody. ' 136. John Clare, The Shepherd's Calendar, 'July.' 137. Alfred Tennyson, The Princess, iv. 140. H. W. Longfellow, ' Rain in Summer.' 141. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, lxxxviii. 145. Miss Manning, The Household of Sir Thomas More, pp. 33-35. 148. Alfred Tennyson, Maud, etc. ' To the Rev. F. D. Maurice.' 149. Justice Coleridge, Memoirs of Wordsworth, vol. ii. p. 301. 155. William Wordsworth, Works, ' My heart leaps up,' vol. i. 155. Matthew Arnold, ' Cadmus and Harmonia.' 158. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. v. 'On the Firth of Clyde.' 161. Sir Walter Scott, Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, vol. iii. ' Cadyow Castle.' 33° An Index of Quotations. PAGE 165. A. C. Swinburne. Poems and Ballads, Second Series, ' Cyril Tourneur.' 167. John Logan, ' The Braes of Yarrow.' 167. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. iii. ' Sonnets dedicated to Liberty,' xii. i6g. Alfred Tennyson, Maud, etc., xxiii. 4. 171. ^Eschylus, Prometheus, 8g. 172. John Milton, Paradise Lost, iv. 165. 172. Lord Byron, The Giaour. 172. John Keble, The Christian Year, ' Second Sunday after Trinity. ' 177. Bishop Percy, Rcliques, ' The Battle of Otterbourne.' 181. George Eliot, ' A College Breakfast Party.' 182. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. v. p. 150. 185. Sir Walter Scott, The Lord of the Isles, iv. 13. 187. John Keats, ' To Ailsa Rock.' 191. Robert Burns, ' To Mary in Heaven.' 191. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. ii. ' The Pass of Kirkstone.' 192. Sir Walter Scott, The Lord of the Isles, v. 1. 197. William Morris, The Earthly Paradise, ' September.' 198. Matthew Arnold, ' Switzerland.' 199. Homer, Iliad, Book viii. Tennyson's Trans. Enoch Ardt 11, etc. p. 177. 201. P. B. Shelley, ' Ode to the West Wind.' 202. ,, „ 203. ,, ,, 204. William Shakspere, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Act iii. Sc. i. L. 128. 211. Felicia Hemans, Works, vol. iv. ' Eryri Wen.' 216. Alfred Tennyson, The Princess, vi. 217. William Shakspere, Sonnets, xxxiii. 219. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. v. ' Yarrow Revisited.' 221. Matthew Arnold, ' Thyrsis.' 223. John Clare, The Shepherd's Calendar, 'October.' 227. William Wordsworth, ' Preface to The Excursion.' 227. William Cowper, The Task, ' The Winter Walk at Noon,' L. 173. 22g. John Aikin, ' The Lime first fading.' 230. John Keats, ' To Autumn.' An Index of Quotations. 331 PAGE 232. Edmund Spenser, The Faerie Qucene, ii. v. xxix. 234. Robert Bloomfield, The Farmer's Boy, ' Winter.' 241. Alfred Tennyson, 'The Gardener's Daughter.' 242. William Allingham, ' Robin Redbreast.' 243. William Shakspere, Hamlet, Act iv. Sc. vii. 167. 247. Robert Burns, ' Halloween.' 248. John Keble, 'All Saints' Day.' 249. Kenelm Henry Digby, The Broad Stone of Honour, ' Morus.' 250. Michael Drayton, Polyolbion, ' The Seven-and-twentieth Song. ' 251. Alexander Smith, A Life Drama, Sc. ii. 252. Sir Walter Scott, Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, ' The Young Tamlane.' 254. William Shakspere, Sonnets, lxxiii. 259. William Wordsworth, Works, vol. ii. ' Lines at Tintern.' 261. Samuel Bamford, Passages in the Life of a Radical, vol. i. 263. Alfred Tennyson, ' Walking to the Mail.' 264. Hollingworth, Chronicle of Manchester. 268. William Shakspere, Macbeth, Act i. Sc. i. 269. „ „ Act i. Sc. v. 26g. P. B. Shelley, ' Autumn : A Dirge.' 269. ,, ' A Vision of the Sea.' 26g. „ ' The Sensitive Plant,' Pt. iii. 270. John Clare, The Shepherd's Calendar, ' November.' 275. Samuel Bamford, Early Days, p. 153. 276. Robert Herrick, ' The Hock Cart, or Harvest Home.' 285. William Wordsworth, ' Poems on the Naming of Places,' iv. 285. „ The Prelude, Book i. 286. ,, The Excursion, Book iv. 287. ,, The River Duddon, Prefatory Lines. 287. „ „ „ 288. ,, Description of the Country of the Lakes. 297. ,, The Excursion, Book i. 2gg. ,, The Prelude, Book i. 2gg. James Thomson, The Seasons, ' Winter.' 304. Robert Tannahill, ' The Braes o' Gleniffer.' 308. George Wither, ' Christmas Carroll.' 3og. Old Song, 1695. 33 2 -An Index of Quotations. 309. Robert Herrick, Noble Numbers, ' A Christmas Caroll.' 309. Thomas Tusser, Five Hundred Poin tcs, 'Christmas.' 311. Sir Thomas Malory, La Mort d' Arthur, C. in. 311. William Shakspere, Hamlet, Act i. Sc. i. 312. John Milton, ' On the Nativity.' 312. George Herbert, The Church, ' Christmas.' 312. Henry Vaughan, Silex Scintillans, ' Christ's Nativity.' 313. Washington Irving, Quotation from ' Hue and Cry after Christmas.' 313. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, xxviii. 314. Henry Vaughan, Silex Scintillans, ' Departed Friends.' 315. Old Carol, Traditional. 315. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, xxix. 318. Robert Herrick, ' Ceremonies for Christmasse.' 319. Alfred Tennyson, In Memoriam, cv. 323. William Wordsworth, The Prelude, Book i. 324. P. B. Shelley, ' Ode to the West Wind.' MISCELLANEOUS NOTES. PAGE 3. Yellow Jasmine, jfasminum nudiflorum. 15. Hart's-tongue, Scolopendrium vulgarc. This splendid fern will grow with great luxuriance set in a little rock-work on the floor of the greenhouse, and in the shade afforded by the shelves or stages on which the ordinary plants are placed. 37. Daffodils, Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus. It is worth while to grow both the old, wild, single flower, and also the double variety. The single flower is much finer in form, but the double one is richer in colour, and blooms earlier. 67. Whinberry : the common Whortleberry, Vaccinium Myrtillus. In this neighbourhood it is always called ' Whinberry ' or ' Wimberry.' Among the working-people the fruit is much used for puddings, and in autumn the children go out upon the moors in troops to gather it. A Lancashire lad takes an especial pleasure in seeing his mouth purple-stained with the juice of this fruit. 69. Lady's-mantle, Alchemilla vulgaris. There are few lovelier things than a leaf of Alchemilla with a drop of dew or rain lying like a diamond in the hollow of its cup. 6g. Wood-sorrel, Oxalis Acctosella. The Irish Shamrock. 74. Solofhon's-Seal, Polygonatum multiftorum. The bees are fond of this flower, and take great pains to force themselves into its narrow corolla. 74. Star-of-Bethlehem, Omithogalum umbellatum. 77. Blue-bell, Hyacinthus non-scriptus. The English Blue-bell, not the Scotch Blue-bell, Campanula heterophylla. 334 Miscellaneous Notes. yy. Wind-flower, Wood-anemone, Anemone nemorosa. 77. Campion, Rose Lychnis, Lychnis sylvestris. This wild flower will grow well in the garden under the shade of trees. 77. Satin-flower, Stellaria Holostea. 77. Lady-smock, Cardamine pratensis. 80. Dandelion, Lcontodon Taraxacum. I believe it would be worth while to grow this flower in beds for the sake of its colour ; Lowell's line is quite true : — ' To look at thee unlocks a warmer clime.' 87. Oak and Ash. The old adage is variously given. The following is the version current in Lancashire : — ' If oak be green before the ash, We shall only have a splash ; But if the ash before the oak, We shall surely have a soak.' g6. Hedge-warbler, Accentor modularis, called also the Hedge- sparrow and in Lancashire the Dunnock. 100. Meadow-pipit, Anthus prateusis, commonly called Tit-lark; and in Lancashire, also, Peet-lark. 104. Clematis, the Clematis Jackmanni. 113. Forget-me-nots, Myosotis arvensis and Myosotis palustris. 113. Herb Robert, Geranium Robertianum. 113. Woodruff, Asperula odorata. 113. The three Stellarias. The Satin-flower, Stellaria holostea; the Stitchwort, Stellaria graminea ; and Chickweed, Stellaria media. 113. Eyebright, Euphrasia officinalis. 113. Bird's-foot, Ornithopus perpusillus. 113. Mountain Pansy, Viola lutea. 115. The Swift, Cypselus apus. 124. Orange Lily, Lilium bulbiferum. 124. Yellow Iris, Iris Pseud-Acorus. 124. Campanula, Campanula persicifolia. 125. Plumbago, Plumbago Capensis. Deserves to be much more common than it is. Blooms with great profusion. No other flower has exactly the same pure, lilac tint. Miscellaneous Notes. 335 PAGE 138. Yellow wagtail, Motacilla Jlava. 149. Horsetail, Equisetum sylvaticum. 150. Chrysanthemum, Chrysanthemum, leucanthemum, Great Ox-eye daisy. 150. Loosestrife, Lysimachia nemorum. 150. Yellow Vetchling, Lathy rus pratensis. 150. Lesser Willow-herb, Epilobium montanum. This common wild flower, like many others, is worth cultivation in the garden for the sake of its graceful shape. 150. Great Willow-herb, Epilobium hirsutum. 151. Monkshood, Aconitum Napellus. 151. Spiked Veronica, Veronica spicata. 151. Meadow-sweet, Spir&a ulmaria. Should be encouraged in the garden on account of its delicious scent. 151. Evening Primrose, CEnothera biennis. 155. Campanula, the Harebell, Campanula heterophylla. 156. Yarrow, Ac illea millefolium. 156. Convolvulus, the Bindweed, Convolvulus scpium, 156. Pied-wagtail, Motacilla Garrcllii. ijq. Bog-myrtle, Gale, also Sweet Gale, Myrica Gale. ijg. Cotton-grass, Erhphorum vaginatum. 195. Snap-dragon, Antirrhinum majus, 210. Scabious, Scabiosa succisa. 210. Tormentil, Tormaitilla officinalis. 220. Crowfoot, Ranunculus hirsutus. 225. Periwinkle, Vinca major. 226. Syringa, Philadelphia coronarius. 227. White Jasmine, Jasminum officinale. 227. Habrothamnus, Habrothamnus fascicularis. 229. Dogwood, Cornus sanguinea. 241. Shepherd's purse, Capsella Bursa-pastoris. 242. Autumn-crocus, Crocus nudijlorus. 2Q2. Hard-fern, Blechnum boreale. INDEX. ABERGLASLYN, 209 ^Eschylus, quoted, 171 After-grass, 199 Aikin (John), quoted, 229 Ailsa, 187 All Fools' Day, 52, 53 All Hallows' Eve, 246 Allingham (W.), quoted, 242 All Saints' Day, 247 All Souls' Day, 248 Am Binnein, 159, 179, 180, 188 Ambleside, 284 Anemone, 169, 260 Aneurin, quoted, 50 Anthony (St.) Turnip, 146 Apple, blossom of, 71 ; resem- blance of scent to faint hya- cinth, 82 ; in spring, 151 ; trees in the garden, 177 ; ' Keswick,' 197 ; broken branches of trees, 203 ; diving for, 246 Apple-pie, 150 April, 48-71 April daisy, 62 April Fool, Charles Lamb on, 53 Arctic winter, 303 Ardrossan, 157 Armboth, 291, 292, 295 Arno's ' wild West wind,' 202 Arnold (Matthew), quoted, r35, 155. 198, 221 Arran, 153-159 ; visit of Scotch painters to, 179 ; reminiscences of, 184 Arthur's Christmas, 3ri Artists at North Meols, 45 Ash, 86, 87, 121, 136, r37, 138, I5r, 200, 223, 229, 238, 239, 241, 261, 332 Ashen branch, 147 Assheton (Sir Richard), 321 Asters, rg6 Atmosphere, effects of the, on scenery, i8r August, 153, 182 Autumn, signs of, 135 ; draws on apace, 151 ; beginning of, 194 ; on the Welsh hills, 205 ; aspects in the garden and wood, 226 Azalea, 7r BACON (Lord), on a garden, 5 ; on lunar influence, 18 Balder, 120 Balm, 177 Bamford (S.), quoted, 243, 261, 275 Bangor, 207 ' Bar-Gaist,' 263 Basenthwaite Lake, 2g3 Bays, 34. 309 Beauty of winter, 282 Beddgelert, 208, 210 Bedding - plants and fragrant flowers contrasted, 151 Beech, 71, 75, 76, 121, 124, 135, 15T, 200, 228, 230, 241, 301 338 Index. Bees, 88, go, 142, 177, 232, 257, 317 Begonias, 15 Bells, Church Stretton, 114; ringing of, as protection against evil spirits, 248 ; at Christmas, 315 Ben-Ghaoith, 185 Ben-Ghnuis, 187 Ben-Ghoil, 185 Ben-Lomond, 187 Ben-More, 187 ' Bess,' a ' boggart,' 278 Bettws-Garmon, 208 Bettws-y-coed, 2ig Bible, quoted, 51 Bindweed, 146 Birch, 82, 108, 121, 135, 162, 178, 183, 241 Birds, their boldness in winter, 8 ; not a hard winter for, 15 ; hardihood of, 51 ; on the moor- land, 67 ; their departure, 95 ; their nests deficient in size, g7 ; in song, ng; their silence, 137 ; gossip about, I3g ; in autumn, 204 ; singing con- trasted with scene of decay, 226; Agapemoneof, 231 ; at Moston, 243 ; feeding the, 305, 322 Bird's-foot, 113, 150, 155, 332 Birken, 304 Blackberry, 177, 260 Blackbird, 74, 7g, 82, 102, 103, 127, 198, 204, 223, 243, 305 Blackley, the tonwship of, 257 Blake (W.), quoted, 72 Blencathra, 2g3 Bloomfield, quoted, 234 Bluebell, 77, 331 Boggart Hole Clough, 262 Boggarts, 277 Bog-myrtle, 179 Bonfires, 120, 24g Booth (Humphrey), 264 Booth Hall, 264 Borrowdale, 162, 293, 295, 297 Boscobel Oak, 98 Botanist, Lancashire, 262 Bowfell, 284 Box, 88 Boy memories, 87 Boyhood in the Clough, 59 Bracken, 179, 221, 2g2 Braes of Gleniffer, 304 Braggat, 49 Bramble, 69, 155, 261 Brawn, 309 Brodick, isg, 185 Bronte (C), quoted, 68 Brook-lime, 146 Browning (Robert), quoted, 48 Burdock, 146 Burial-place, Wordsworth's de- scription of, 182 Burns, quoted, 126, 245 Bute, Island of, 164, 182 Buttercup, 146, 225 Butterflies, 169 Bwlch-y-Maen, 212 Byron (Lord), quoted, 172 Byron (Sir J.), 25g CAER CARADOC, 115 Caistael-Abhael, I5g Camellia, g, 35, 316 Camomile, 146 Campanula, 124, 155, 181, 227, 332, 333 Campion, 77, 87, 241 Candytuft, g3 Cantire, 173, 187, ig3 Capel Curig, 205, 215 Caractacus, 115 Caradoc, 115 Caradoc range, 112 Carnarvon, 207 Carol-singers, 314 Cavendish and Wolsey, 24g Celandine, 31, 6g, 77 Celandine, lesser, 32, 53 Index. 339 Chapel-en-le-Frith, 68 Chaucer, quoted, 49, 61, 73 ; and the daisy, 62 ; and the haw- thorn, 84 Cherry, 35, 71, 74, 82, 139 Cherries, blackbirds waiting for, i°3 Chester, 206 Chestnut, 71, 121, 200, 230, 241, 242 Chetham family, 275 Child in sickness and the snow- drop, 17 Children, their enjoyment of . snowy weather, 7 ' Children of the Lord's Supper,' ng Christmas decorations, 33, 34, 307 ; minstrels, 287 ; Eve, 306 ; carol, 309; tree, 310; Day, 314 ; ceremonies, 318 Chrysanthemum, 150, 156, 225, 271, 333 Church Stretton, 111 Cioch-na-h'oighe, 159, 165, 181 Cior-Mhor, 166 Clare (John), quoted, 136, 223, 270 Clawdd-Coch, 212 Clematis, 104, 332 Clement (John), 147 Cloudy weather and tree colour- ing, 104 Clough (A. H.), quoted, 183 Clough at Moston, 257 Clovelly, 173 Clover, 149 Coast, spring-time on the, 43 Cockle-gatherer at Meols, 46 Coleridge, quoted, 12, 35, 205 Coleridge (Justice), quoted, 149 Coltsfoot, 149 Colwyn, 206 Coniston Old Man, 2S4 Convolvulus, 156, 195, 333 Conway Castle, luxuriant ferns at, 15 ; the towers of, 221 Z Cookery recipes of the eighteenth century, 27 Corn-flower, 108 Cornwall camellias in March, 35, 36 Corrie, 153, 159, 185 Costume, Breton-like, at Meols, 47 Cottage gardens of the old soTt, 46 Cottages, old-fashioned, 21, 45 Cotton gowns, 74 Cotton-grass, 179, 333 Cowper, quoted, 1, 14, 122, 227 Cowslips, 32 Cresses, 146 Crib-Goch, 216 Crib-y-Ddysgyl, 213, 216 Crocus, 4, 20-24, 3 2 i 44i I 5 I > 242. 333 Croker (Crofton), the real author of ' The Bar-Gaist,' 263 Crowfoot, 146, 220, 333 Cuckoo, 115, 116, 243 Cumbrae, 182 Currant, 35, 71, go, 139, 226 Currant-jelly recipe, quaint, 28 Cwm-Dyli, 216 Cwm-glas-Llyn, 215 Cwm-y-Clogwyn, 211 Cwm-y-Llan, 215 Cyclamen, 9 DAFFODILS, 36, 44, 74, 151, 33i Daisy, 32, 46, 47, 54, 59-65, 84, 85> 93. J 5 6 . 2Z 5, 241 Dandelion, 80, 85, 142, 145, 155, 169, 225, 241, 332 Dante, quoted, 12 ' Day, the longest,' ng Death, the Edge of, 211 December, 272-314 Decorations, Christmas, 33, 34, 307 ' Deer-leaps,' 257 Dell at Moston, 238 34° Index. Derbyshire, 66 Deutzia, g Devil's bit, 241 Devil's punch-bowl, 180 Digby (Kenelm), quoted, 32, 249 Diving for apples, 246 Docks, 150 ' Dogberry, Constable, of the Watch,' 229 Dog-daisy, 5g Dog harrying lambs, 178 Dogwood, 229, 333 Dove-cage, 238 Dove, the wild, 177 ; Ruskin's de- scription of the, 5 ; nest-build- ing, 16 Drayton quoted, 40, 250 Ducklings and hen, 143 Ducks, 201 ; Muscovy, 298 Duddon Sonnets, 286 Dugald, the shepherd, 176 Dunmail Raise, 27, 286 Diirer (Albert), 206, 311 EAGLES in Blakeleigh Park, 257 Easdale, 293 Echoes of the spring, 221 Edale, 66 Egg-hot, 50 Elder, 4, 87, 121, 151, 200, 223 Elderberries, 223 Eliot (G.), quoted, 181 Elm, 52, 121, 201, 230, 240 Emerson (R. W.), quoted, 153 Erasmus, 145 Evans (Sebastian), quoted, 21 Evergreens, taking down, 33, 34 Eye-bright, 113, 155, 332 FAIRFIELD, 284 Fairies, or ' little men,' 278 Fairy-rings, 277 ' Fallen Rocks,' 189 Fall of snow, 6 GAR Farms at Moston, 276 February, 10-24 Feeding the birds and the poor, 305-6 Felix, the bird-master, 229 Ferns, 15, 292, 333 Ffridd-Uchaf, 2og Finches, large Congregation of, 137 Fir, 292 Fire, midsummer, 120 ; its beauty, 251 ; in winter, 306 Fisher folk, quaint, 173 ; their theological patriarch, 173 Fishing boats, 173 Flint, the castle at, 206 ' Flitted,' 95 Flodden Field, 321 Flowers, influence of the summer heat on, 124 ; by the sea, 156 Fog, Coleridge's description of a white, 12 ; a blind, 246 ; scarcity of, 266 ; varieties of, 267 Foliage, varieties of colour, 121 Folk lore, 261, 263, 277 Forget-me-not, 113, 156, 332 Foxglove, 4, 104, 113, 118, 124, 128-133, 141, 155, 224, 323 Frog, 95 Frost, in February, n ; reminis- cences of frost-fair, n ; atypical frosty morning, 13 ; ' sharp ' and ' killing ' in May, 73 ; and the hawthorn, 84 Fuchsia, 162, 227, 271 Fulham meadows, 145 Fullarton family, 160 Funeral emblem, rosemary as a, 147 Fungi, 236 GARDEN, corners and alleys of our, 5 ; the foxglove, 128-133 ; the book for the, 134 ; the old-fashioned, 145- 152 ; aspect of in autumn, 226 Index. 341 Geese, 223, 2g8 Gentians, 151 Geraniums, 71, 131, 162, 227, 271, 316 Girvan, 187 Glas-Llyn, 215 Glasswort as a pickle, 146 Glen at Moston, 238 Glen-Chalmadale, 191 Glen Cloy, 160 GlenifTer, Braes of, 304 Glen-Rosa, 160, 165 Glen-Sannox, 165, 182 Glowworm, 317 Glyder-Fach , 217 Gnats, dance of, 19 ; wailful mourn of, 230 Goatfell, 158, 159, r7g, 184 Goethe, quoted, I2g 1 Golden chain,' a local name for laburnums, 87 Googe (Barnaby), quoted, 120 Gooseander, 30 Gooseberry, ig, 35, 71, 87, 139, 226 Goose-grass, a 'blood purifier,' 146 Gorphysfa, 217 Gorse, 2g, 130, 221 Grange-in-Cartmel, 283 Grapes, 197, 271 Grasmere, 30, 285 Grasses, 150 Gray (David), quoted, 213 Gray (Thos.), his discovery of the Lake-Country, 27; quoted, no Green (lohn), the shepherd, and his wife, 2g6 Grelle (Thomas de), 273 Guebres, 128 Guelder-rose, 87 Gulls, 156 Gunpowder festival, 249 H ABROTHAMNUS, 227, 333 Halgh (George), 259 ' Halloween,' 247 Hamilton ejectments, igo Hamilton family, 160 Hard-fern, 2g2, 333 Harebell, 155, 333 Hart's-tongue, 15, 108, 331 Harvest home, 276 Hawker (R. S.), quoted, 92 Hawks, 257 Hawthorn, 15, 84, 90, 98, 121, I3 1 - r 3 6 Hay, moorland, 177 Hayfield, 66 ; in the, 123 ; de- lightful associations in connec- tion with harvest, 125 Hazel, 177, 178, 183, 261 Heather, 179 Hedge-cricket, 231 Hedge-warbler, boldness of, g6 ; nest of, g6, 332 Helvellyn, 26, 2g, 286, 2gi Hemans (F.), quoted, 211 Hen and ducklings, 143 Henry I., storm on All Hallows' day in the eighteenth year of, 249 Herbert (George), quoted, 115 Herb-robert, 113, 156, 221, 332 Herb-twopence, cure for a hun- dred ills, 146 Hereford violets, 42 Heron, 30, 257 Herrick, quoted, 34, 41, 51, 75, 107, 236, 276, 309, 318 Hesketh, Dame Mary, 47 High Street, 284 Hills, view of the distant, 65 ' Hive, legend of the,' 91, 92 Hock-cart, 276 Holcolme, 274 Hollingworth, quoted, 264 Holly, 34, 46, 88, 89, 113, 149, 228, 261, 292, 308, 3og Holy-Island, 164, 182 Homer, quoted, igg 342 Index. HON Honeysuckle, 115, 260 Honey, the sweetest in Wales, 2ig Horse-chestnut, 52 Horsetail, 149, 333 Hough Hall, 258 Hunt (Leigh), quoted, 72 Hyacinth, 15, 82, 179, 238, 260 Hydrangea, 162 TDLENESS, rural, in May, 73 ; as a virtue, 154 Imagination, truest test to apply to the, 205 Indian summer, 232 Instinct, its failures, 57 Ireland perceptible from Goat- fell, 187 Iris, 108, 124, 149, 332 Irving (Washington), quoted, 313 Ivy, 34, 88, ro3, 121, 231, 309 JACOBITE rebellion, the Young Pretender's officer shot at Lightbowne, 274 January, 1-9, 319-324 Jasmine, yellow, 3, 4, 17, 235, 304, 331 ; white, 227, 333 Jessamine, 151, 195 John (St.), 120 ; celebration of the eve of, 120 John's (St.) Fern, 121, 261 John the Mower, 320 Jones (E. Burne), 42 July, 123-152 June, gg-122 Juniper, 2g3 KEATS (John), quoted, 187, 230 Keble (John), quoted, 172, 248 Kent valley, 282 Keswick, 27, 30, 2gi Kinder Scout, 66, 274 Kingsley (Charles), 218 Kyles, 187 LABURNUM, 5, 87, go, 98, 121, 201 ' Lady of the Daffodils,' 42 Lady of the old school described, 23 Lady's mantle, 6g, 82, 151, 331. Lady-smock, 62, 77, 146, 332 Lake-Country in spring, 25 ; in . winter, 280 Lammastide, 177 Lamb (Charles), 23 ; quoted, 50, 53 Lamb harried by dog, 178 Lamlash, 159 Lancashire, joviality at Whitsun- tide in, 106 ; working botanists of, 262 Landscape, influence of memory on the beauties of the, 206 Langdale Pikes, 284 Lapwing, 280 Lark, 45, 138, 280, 305 Laurel, 281, 287, 308, 3og Lawes (Henry), 3og Laying a spirit, 278 ' Legend of the Hive,' gi, g2 Lesser Celandine, 32, 53 Lichens, 2g2 Life and its waste, 132 Lightbowne Hall, 274 ' Light Spout ' waterfall, 113 Lilac, colour of leaf, r2i Lily, 81, 108, 124, 151, 332 Lily Lane, 273 Lime, 82, 113, 121, 200, 229, 230, 241 Limestone cave, 177 Ling-bird, 100 Linnaeus, his admiration of the gorse, 130 Linnet, 256 ' Little men,' 278 Little Summer of St. Luke, 232 Llanbeblig, 207 Llanberis, 213 Llanrwst, 221 Index. 343 Llechog, 210 Lliwedd, 216 1 Llyn Cwellyn, 210 Llyniau-Mymbyr, 217 Llyn Llydaw, 216 Llyn-y-Gader, 210 Loch Fyne, 164, 173 Loch Lomond, 164 Loch Ranza, 173, 188, 192, 193 Logan, quoted, 116, 167 Loneliness of the moorland, 67 1 Longest day, the,' ug Longfellow, quoted, ug, 140 Long Mynd, 112 Loosestrife, 150, 333 Loughrigg, 284 Lowell (J. R.), quoted, 81, gg Luke (St.) Little Summer of, 232 MAGPIES, 242 Maiden's breast, I5g Molory 1, Sir Thomas), quoted, 311 Manning (Miss), quoted, 145 March, 25-47 • ' ast day °f> bitter and biting, 4g Marigold, 124, 271 Marlowe, quoted, 8g Marl-pits in winter, 302 Marten, 115 Martinmas Day, 352 Mason (George) at North Meols, 45 Mauchrie Bay, 173 Mavis, 304 May, 72-g8 ; the flower of, 61 ; frost on the 1st of, 73 ; going a-Maying, 75 Maypole, 120 Meadow-lark, 100 Meadow-pipit, 100, 332 Meadow-sweet, 151, 156, 333 Menai, 207 Meols, North, 44 ; artistic quali- ties of, 45 ; the old hall at, 47 Mezereon, 24 Middleton, 322 MUL Mid-lent festival, 49 Midsummer in Sweden, 119 Mignonette, 56, 196 Milk-thistle, 145 Milton, quoted, 21, 63, 84, 151, 172, 263, 26g, 312 Miner's Bridge, 220 Minstrels, Christmas, 287 Mint, 177 Misletoe, 34, 308 Moel Hebog, 2og Moel-Siabod, 218-220 Monkshood, 151, igs, 333 Moon, fading away of, 8 ; vision of new, with old in her arms, 34. 35 ; autumnal look of, I3g ; in autumn, igg ; the hunter's, 232 ; in November, 266 ; in winter, 287 Moorland hay, 177 Moorland, on the, 65 Moor-tit, 100 More (Sir T.), 145 Morecambe, 282 Morrice-dancers, 275 Morris (W.), quoted, 25, 84, 197 Mort d'Arthur, 311 Moss, 67, 149, 272, 2g2 Moss-cheeper, 100 Moston, cottage at, with Latin inscription, 22 ; its great oaks, g8 ; writing from, 183 ; the glen and dell of, 23g ; Clough, 257 ; its moss, 272 ; Christmas festivities at, 307 Mother who kills her son, 278 Mothering Sunday, 50 Motherwort, 120 Mountain, on the, 175 ; fatal accident on the, 180 ; scenery, realisation of the dreadful as- pect of, 211 ; in winter, 288. Mountain-ash, 87, 121, 162, 180, 183, 184, 201, 292 Mouse, field, 126 Mull, 173 344 Index. Myrtle, 177, 179 Musk, 71, 124, 225 NANT Gwynant, 216 Nantlle, 210 Narcissus, g3 Nasturtiums, 162, igg, 227 Nature, its gravity, 133 ; its con- tinuity, 154 Newby Bridge, 283 Newman (J. H.), quoted, 123 Nest forsaken, 253 New BrunswickHighland colony, 190 New year begun, 3ig Nightingales, 120 November, 245-271 ; fog, 266 Nuthurst, 275 Nut-Nan, 277 OAK, 86, 98, 108, 121, 200, 229, 231. 237. 257. 332 Ocean smiles, 172 October, 213-244 Odermann, 274 'Old Bess, '.278 Old man's pepper, 146 Oliver's Clough, 265 Orchis, purple, 146 Osmunda, 285 Ossian, 166 Ousel-cock, 204 PANSY, 113, 332 Parsley, 46 Parson and the rain, 94 Passion flower, 125 Peaches, ig7 Peacock, 6, 82 Pea-hen, 144 Pear-trees, 35, 52, 65, 73, 141, 197. 233 Pentecost, 106 Pen-y-Gwryd, 217 Peony, 108, 151 Periwinkle, 225, 333 Pfingsten-tag, 106 Phantom huntsmen, 277 Pied wagtail, 156, 2og, 333 Pigeons, 73, 142, 202, 223 Pimpernel, 146 Pines, 221 Pink, 118 Pitmother, 277 Plumbago, 125, 227, 332 Politician of the Lake District, 296 Polyanthus, 15, 46 Pont-y-Gyfyng, 220 Poppy, a promoter of sleep, 146 Porlock, 131 Pottage improved by herbs, 146 Primrose, 6, g, 36, 44, 46, 75, 131, 151, 179, 333 Professor on the love of trees, 105 Providence and the birds, 102 Q UEEN of the meadow, 151 RAIN, 94, I2g, 140 Rainbow, 170 Ranunculus, 15, 74, 150 Raspberry, 98 Redbreast (see Robin Redbreast) Returning winter, 4 Rhododendron, 8g, 90, 204 Rhyl, 206 Richard I. taken prisoner, 249 Rime, 301 Robin Goodfellow, 263 Robin Redbreast, 8, 13, 82 ; singing in the thunder, 85 ; my favourite, 204 ; the whistle of the, 230 ; courts my acquaint- ance, 243 ; very numerous, 256; hard time for, 305 Roby (John), 263 Rochdale, 257 Rookery, 258 Index. 345 Rooks, 44, 305 Roses, 3, 13, 6g, 71 ; 113, 115, 125, 151, 156, 162, 177, 226, 228, 239, 260, 292, 305 Rosemary, 34, 147, 309 Rossetti (Gabriel), 42 Rosthwaite, 294 Rowan, 183 Rushbearing, 275 Ruskin (John), quoted, 5, 131 Russel (Sir John), 249 Rydal Mere, 285 RydaL Mount, 148 Rydal, the home of Wordsworth, 31; Mere, 32, 2S5 ; Mount, 148 SADDLEWORTH, 65 Sage, 46 Saint Anthony Turnip, 146 Saint Michael, 182 Salep, 146 Salford, 264 Sandford family, 275 Sannox, 164, i8g, igo Satin-flower, 77, 332 Saxifrages, 181 Scabious, 210, 241, 333 Scammony, 146 Scilla-amcena, 15 Scotch, not given togardening, 162 Scott (Sir W.), quoted, 30, 161, 185, 192, 252 Sea, by the, 167 September, 183-212 Shackerley Green, 275 Shakspere, quoted, 41, 48, 62, 75, 204, 217, 227, 243, 254, 268, 26g, 311 Shakspere's Dogberry, 229 Shamrock, 6g, 331 Shelley, quoted, 7, 64, log, 201- 203, 251, 26g, 272, 324 Shepherd's book, 2g5 Shepherd of the Lake District, 294 Shepherd's purse, 47, 241, 333 SPR Shields (Frederick J.), 42 Shire-oaks, 6g Shrovetide, 32 Siabod, Moel, 218 Siberian crab, 75, 198, 223, 247 Sidney (Sir P.), quoted, 18 Simanellus cake, 4g Simblin cake, 49 Simnel cake, 49 Skating, 283, 2gg, 301, 316, 323 Skiddaw, 293 Skylark, 109 Sliding, 296 Smith (Alexander), quoted, 251 Smoking Oronooko, 50 Snapdragon, 195, 333 Snipe, 274 Snow, fall of, 6 ; an apology for a snow-man, 7 ; a child's regret at the collapse of, 17 ; in April, 52 ; a severe storm, 252 ; snow- muffled winds, 288 ; an intoxi- cant, 301 ; forts, 301 Snowdon, 186, 207, 210 Snowdon Ranger, 208 Snowdrops, 4, 16-ig, 28, 31, 32, 151 Solar Worship, 128 - Solomon's seal, 74, 331 Sorrel, 150, 220 Soul-cakes, 248 Souls, departed, on Midsummer Eve, 120 Southey, quoted, 89 Sparrow, 16, 80, 228, 237,256,305 Speedwell, 21 Spence (Sir Patrick), quoted, 35 Spenser quoted, 10, 123, 232 Spiders' webs, 235 Spinning, 277 Spring days in January, 2 ; time in the Lake Country, 25 ; on the coast, 43; weather, 51; 'the winter is gone,' 70 ; ' the living green of,' 134 ; echoes of, 221- 226 ; song of, 230 A A 346 Index. Stag's-horn moss, 293 Starling, 36, 52, 57 Star-of-Bethlehem, 74, 331 Stellaria, 113, 260, 332 Still days, 93 Stitchwort, 332 Stocks, 271 Storms on All Hallows, 249 Strawberries, rg, 31, 69, 87, 225 Suidhe-Fergus, r65 Summer in the Midlands, no ; tropical, 123; woods, 133 ; hot again, 139 Sunday in the Lake-Country, 31 ; at Church Stretton, 114 Sunrise, 7, 171 Sunset, 109, 117, 127, 142 ; on the mountains, 1S1, 193 Sunshine not essential to beauty, g3 ; in the mountains, 217 Surrey dogwood, 229 Swallows, 138 Sweden, midsummer in, 113 Sweet-Gale, 179, 333 Sweet- William, 124 Swift, 115, 332 Swinburne, quoted, 165 Swithin's (St.) Day, 139 Sword-grass, 108 Sycamore, 122, 135, 151, 200, 241 Syringa, 226, 271, 333 ''pALIESIN, quoted, 50 JL Tannahill, quoted, 304 Tan-y-Bwlch Hotel, 217 Tea and herrings, igi Tegner (Bishop), quoted, ng Temperature, 51, 123, 140, ig8, 222, 303 Tennyson (Alfred), quoted, 12, 17, 20, 31, 44, 46, 70, 87, g8, 104, no, 125, 132, 137, 141, 148, 216, 241, 263, 313, 3ig Tennyson (Frederick), quoted, S6 Tentacula, 169 Thirlmere, 25, 286, 287, 291, 2g5 Thistles, 150, igg Thomson (James), quoted, 43, 2gg Thorn, 65, 76, 200, 228 Throstle, 23, 57, 64, 71, 85, ng, 137. I 38, 141, 204, 243 ' Throstle Glen,' 243 Throstle's nest, history of, 78 Thrush (see Throstle) Thunder, 77, 85, 232, 254 Thyme, 46, 146, 232 Tit-lark, 100 Titling, 100 ' Toilers of the Sea,' 46 Toothache, a cure for, 146 Tormentil, 210, 333 Traeth-Mawr, 2og Trees, love of trees and the de- scent of man, 105 ; by the sea, 162 ; in autumn, ig6 Trefoil, 15 Tropical summer, 123 Tudor, Henry and Mary, 114 Tulips, 74 Turner (J. W. M.), his ' Frosty Morning,' 13 Tusser, quoted, 56, 3og Twilight, ng Tyn-y-coed, 2ig u LLSWATER, 3g VALE of St. John, 25, 30 Vaughan (H.), quoted, 95, 102, 312, 314 Veronica, 151, 195, 227,333 Vervain, 120, 146 Vetch, 156 Vetchling, 150, 333 Violet, 21, 42 Vortigern, 207 w fAENFAWR, 207 Waggons, country, 258 Index. 347 Wagtail, 138, 156, 209, 333 Walker (Fred.) at North Meols, 45 Walton (I), 83 Wansfell, 284 Warbler, 80 Wassail, 318 Watendlath, 291, 293, 295, 296 Water arrow-head, 146 Water, rare sweet, recipe for, 28 Water sprites, 277 Watts (Isaac), quoted, 134 Waves, sound of, i6g ; laughter of, 171 Weather - Prophet, Dugald the, 176 Weaving, 277 Wekeen, 100 Welsh hills in autumn, 205 Westmoreland, the mountains of, 280 Whaite (Clarence), 218 Whinberry, 67, 331 White fog, 10 White (Gilbert), 83 White-thorn, 83 White Water, 161, 179 Whiting Bay, isg Whitsuntide, 106 Whortleberry, 67, 331 Whytemosse, 273 Wild succory, 146 Willow, 46, 47, 121, 136, 151, 162, 200, 242 Willow herb, 150, 156, 225, 333 Wind, whistle of the North, 8 ; varying qualities of the four, 56 ; rending the clouds, 77 ; the wild West, 200 Wind-flower, 77, 332 Winter, returning, 4 ; dumbness of, 8 ; gone, 70 ; fire, cessation of, 117; first week of, 245; in the Lake-Country, 280; beauty of, 282 ; an old-fashioned, 298 Winter-house, 299 Witches, 278 Wither (G.), quoted, 308 Wizards, 278 Wolsey (Cardinal), 249 Wool, 277 Wordsworth (Dorothy),quoted,39 Wordsworth (W.), quoted, 1,2,18, 38, 54, 56, 64, 6g, 76, 80, 116, 119, 155, 158, 167, 182, 191, 219, 227, 259, 285, 286, 287, 288, 297, 299, 323 ; his house at Rydal, 32 ; garden at Rydal, 148 ; his delight in the beauties of nature, 149 Worm, 103 Wood in summer, 133 ; in autumn, 226 Woodbine, 156 Woodruff, 113, 146, 156 Wood-sorrel, 31, 69, 77, 146, 331 Wren, 30, 204, 243 YARRELL, quoted, 100 Yarrow, 156, 333 Year ended, 314 Yellow wagtail, 138, 333 Yew tree, 88 Yr Eifl, 207 Yuletide, 120 Y-Wyddfa, 216 ABERDEEN UNIVERSITY PRESS. 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