fytmll mmmxii^ §xMt^ BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF 1S91 4r/AS:AR^ .jz/s//:<^a'^ The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924029879867 ffielanrjialtj /ate SIR JOHN FRANKLIN / . ANlil'HIS PARTY, AS DISCiOSED IN DE. EAE'S EEPOET; ■if. TOGETHER WITff THE DESPATCHES AND fiETTERS CAPTAIN M'CLURE, AND OTHER OFFICERS EMPLOYED IN THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, LONDON: JOHN BETTS, 115, STRAND, NEARLY OPPOSITE EXETER-HALL. "'^^' 1854. rPi'lfA mith M/m. One ShiUinaA 120 UO 100 9() X.Ji\J JLVV XV»V' >.'^' \ ' ^^^^ifi-^'rl F^f^-^^'t' lr^^:*\_-ri H-'^=^'*^ ^ <^ ' ' r-^K^^*7 i THE FAT& OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. The veil that so long concealed from our view the fate of Sir John Franklin and others of our gallant countrymen engaged in the arduous and hazardous task of exploring the Polar Seas, has heen suddenly and unexpectedly lifted, presenting a spectacle painfully distressing. On Sunday last, October 22nd, Dr. Rae, of the Hudson's Bay Company, arrived in England from the Arctic regions, where he had been deputed to the survey of the western coast of Boothia, and in the prosecution of this engagement, became possessed of the melancholy facts recorded below. The following is Dr. Rae's Report to the Secretary of the Admiralty : " Repulse Bay, July 29. " Sir, — I have the honour to mention, for the information of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that during my journey over the ice and snow this spring, with the view of completing the survey of the west shore of Boothia, I met with Esquimaux in Pelly Bay, from one of whom I learned that a party of ' white men, ' (Kablounans) had perished from want of food some distance to the westward, and not far beyond a large river, containing many falls and rapids. Subsequently, further particulars were received, and a number of articles purchased, which places the fate of a portion, if not of all of the then survivors of Sir John Franklin's long-lost party, beyond a doubt — a fate as terrible as the imagination can conceive. " The substance of the information obtained at various times and from various sources, was as follpws : "In the spring, four winters past (spring 1850), a party of 'white men,' amounting to about forty, were seen travelling southward over the ice, and dragging a boat with them, by some Esquimaux, who were killing seals near the north shore of King William's Land, which is a large island. None of the party could speak the Esquimaux language intelligibly, but by signs the party were made to understand that their ship, or ships, had been crushed by ice, and that they were now going to where they expected to find deer to shoot. From the appearance of IV THE FATE OF STB JOriN FRANKUN. the men, all of whom, except one officer, looked thin, they were then supposed to be getting short of provisions, and purchased a small seal from the natives. At a later date the same season, but previous to the breaking up of the ice, the bodies of some thirty persons were dis- covered on the Continent, and five on an island near it, about a long day's journey to the N.W. of a large stream, which can be no other than Back's Great Fish River (named by the Esquimaux Doot-ko-hi- calik), as its description, and that of the low shore in the neighbour- hood of Point Ogle and Montreal Island, agree exactly with that of Sir George Back. Some of the bodies had been buried (probably those of the first victims of famine), some were in a tent or tents, others under the boat, which had been turned over to form a shelter, and several lay scattered about in different directions. Qf those found on the island, one was supposed to have been an officer, as he had a telescope strapped over his shoulders, and his double-barrelled gun lay underneath him, " From the mutilated state of many of the- corpses and the contents of the kettles, it is evident that our wretched countrymen had been driven to the last resource — cannibalism — as a means of prolonging existence. " There appeared to have been an abundant stock of ammunition, as the powder was emptied in a heap on the ground by the natives out of the kegs or cases containing it ; and a quantity of ball and shot was found below high water mark, having probably been left on the ice close to the beach; There must have been a number of watches, com- passes, telescopes, guns (several double-barrelled), etc., all of which appear to have been broken up, as I saw pieces of those different articles with the Esquimaux, together with some silver spoons and forks. I purchased as many as I could get. A list of the most im portant of these I enclose, with a rough sketch of the crests and initials of the forks and spoons. The articles themselves shall be handed over to the Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company on my arrival- in London. " None of the Esquimaux with whom I conversed had seen, the • whites,' nor had they ever been at the place where the bodies were found, but had their information from those who had been there, and who had seen the party when travelling. " I offer no apology for taking the liberty of addressing you, as I do so from a belief that their lordships would be desirous of being put in possession, at as early a date as possible, of any tidings, however meagre and unexpectedly obtained, regarding this painfully interesting subject. " I may add, that by means of our guns and nets, we obtained an ample supply of provisions last autumn, and my small party passed the winter in snowhouses in comparative comfort, the skins of the deer shot THE FATE OF SIB JOHN FHANKLIN. V affording abundant warm clothing and bedding. My spring journey was a failure, in consequence of an accumulation of obstacles, several of which, my former experience in Arctic traTelling had not taught me to expect.: — I have, &o., " John Rae, M.D., " Commanding Hudson's Bay Company's Arctic Expedition." The following are extracts from Dr. Rae's journal : " On the morning of the 20th, we were met by a very intelligent Esquimaux, driving a dog-sledge laden with musk-ox beef. This man at once consented to accompany us two days' journey, and in a few minutes had deposited his load on the snow, and was ready to join us. Having explained to him my object, he said that the road by which he had come was the best for us, and, having lightened the men's sledges, we travelled with more facility. We were now joined by another of the natives, who had been absent seal-hunting yesterday, but, being anxious to see us, had visited our snow house early this morning, and then fol- lowed up our track. This man was very communicative, and on putting to him the usual questions as to his having seen ' white man ' before, or any ships or boats, he replied in the negative ; but said that a party of ' Kablounans ' had died of starvation a long distance to the west of where we then were, and beyond a large river. He stated that he did not know the exact place, that he never had been there, and that he could not accompany us so far." The further entries of Pr. Rae's journal are almost verbatim the same as the preceding report to the Admiralty ; he., however, adds, which is some consolation under the melancholy circumstances : " From what I could learn, there is no reason to suspect that any violence had been offered to the sufferers by the natives. " List of articles purchased from the Esquimaux, said to have been obtained at the place where the bodies of the persons reported to have died of famine were found, viz. : — " 1 silver table fork — crest, an ani- mal's head, with wings extended above; 3 silver table forks— crest, a bird with wings extended; 1 silver table spoon— crest, with initials ' F.R.M.C (Captain Crozer, Terror) ; 1 silver table spoon and 1 fork — crest, bird with laurel branch in mouth, motto, " Spero meliora ;" 1 silver table spoon, 1 tea spoon, and 1 dessert fork — crest, a fish's head looking upwards, with laurel branches on each side ; 1 silver table fork — initials, ' H. D. S. G.' (Harry D. S. Goodsir, assistant-surgeon, Erebus) ; 1 silver table fork — initials, 'A. M'D.' (Alexander M'Donald, assistant-surgeon. Terror) ; \ silver table fork — initials, ' G. A. M.' (Gillies A. Macbean, second-master. Terror) ; ] silver table fork — initials, ' J. T,' ; 1 silver dessert spoon — initials, ' J. S. P.' (John S. VI THE FATE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. Peddie, surgeon, Erebus) ; 1 round silver plate, engraved, • Sir John rranklin, K.C.B. ;' a star or order, with motto, "Nee aspera terrent, G. R. III., MDCCCXV.' " Also a number of other articles with no marks by which they could be recognised, but which will be handed over with those above-named to the Secretary of the Hon. Hudson's Bay Company. " John Rae, M.D. "Repulse Bay, July, 18.54." THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, CAPTAIN M'CLURE'S DESPATCHKS. ' Her Majesty's Discovery Ship, Investigator, off Point Warren, Polqr Sea, Auflust 'Mtli, 1850, in lat. 69° 13' JV., long. 131° 57' IV. SiRj — I have the honour to report to you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that we arrived off the Mackenzie on the 21st instant. The letters that I forwarded by Her Majesty's ship. Herald, from whom I parted company on the 30th ultimo, off Cape Lisburne, will have put you in possession of my proceedings up to that date. After parting with the Herald I stood to the N.N.W. with a fresh breeze from the N.E., with the intention of making the ice, which was accomplished on the morning of the 2nd of August, in lat. 7'' 2 1' N., long. 106"^ 12' W., and at 11 a.m. stood into the loose ice for the purpose of examining the pack ; the wind, however, falling before we got far in, I was induced to run out to avoid being beset, having ascer- tained that the pack was very close and heavy, extending from E.N.E. to W.N.W., and, seeing no hope of getting through, worked along its edge in soundings from 24 to 26 fathoms (mud) ; the hundreds of walrusses that were lying upon the ice, thickly huddled together like sheep in a fold, were most astonishing. We continued working along the ice, occasionally getting drifted in, until the 5th, when the weather, which had beer; previously thick and misty, cleared a little, and no ice being in sight, I shaped a course for Wainwright's Inlet, with the intention of getting between the pack and shore ; in running exchanged numbers with Her Majesty's ship Plover, and at 11. .30 a.m. observed a low beach, apparently shingle, distant about two miles. The wea- ther again having become thick, we went entirely by our souijdings, which varied from 14 to 73 fathoms ; in which latter we rounde*d Point Barrow at 11.30 p.m., without, however, observing the land, and steered to the eastward, direct for Banks's Land, finding that the ice was sufficiently loose and practicable for sailing through. These hopes were soon, however, dissipated ; for on the iorenoon of the 6th it suddenly cleared, when I found that we had been running directly into the pack, which was very heavy and impenetrable, extending from S.E. to S.W. (by the north), in lat. 71" 35' N.. and long. 155° 12' W. A 2 and the sea tliroiigli which we had come looking nearly as white as the ice ahead, except that lanes of water were observable. We instantly liauled to the wind, and commenced working out. Duruig the nia:ht the breeze freshened considerably, bringing showers of ram wilh thick weather, while being compelled to carry a press of canvass through very heavy and close sailing ice rendered -the navigation extremely critical. The vessel occasionally struck with some violence. Tliis continued till the afternoon of the 7th, when clear water was reported from the Crow's-nest. The wind almost immediately faiUng, the boats were all manned, and towing commenced amid spngs and cheers, which continued with unabated good humour for six hours, when their laborious work was brought to a successful termination ; being in perfectly clear water in Smith's Bay, a light air springing up, we worked to the eastward. At 2 a.m. of the 8th, being off Point Drew, sent Mr. Court (second master), on shore to erect a cairn, and bury a notice of our having passed. Upon landing they were met by three natives, who at first were very timid, but, upon exchanging signs of friendship, which con- sisted of raising the arms three times over the head, they approached the boat, and, after the pleasant salutation of rubbing noses, became very communicative ; when, by the assistance of our invaluable inter- preter, Mr. Miertsching— the selection of this gentleman for this important office does infinite credit to the discernment of those who sent him — we found the tribe consisted of ten tents (this being the only approach to their numbers he could obtain), that they had arrived only three days previously, and that they hold communication with a party inland, who trade with the Eussian Fur Compan}'. The evening before, they had observed us, but could not imagine what large trees they were moving about (our masts), and all the tribe had assembled on the beach to look at them, when they agreed that it was something very extraordinary, and left the three men who met the boat to watch; They also gave the pleasing intelligence that we should find open water along the coast from abo\it three to five miles' distance during the summer ; that the heavy ice very seldom came in, or never left the land further than at present ; that they did not know if there were any islands further north, as they found it impossible to go in their kyacks, when in pursuit of seals, further than one day's journey to the main ice ; and thisn tbe lanes of water allowed of their proceeding three-quarters of a day further, which brought them to very large and high ice, with not space enough in any part of it to allow their kyacks to enter ; the probable distance, Mr. Miertsching therefore estimates, from bis knowledge of the Esquimaux habits, to be about 40 miles off shore, and from what I have seen of the pack, I am inclined to think this is perfectly correct, for a more unbroken mass I never witnessed. They also mentioned seeing the boats with white men going eastward last y( ar (which I suppose was Lieutenant Pulleu), but had not seen any other white jicrsons or anything like this vessel before ; they had, therefore, no name of suthcicnt grandeur to give the great "omiac," so they called her the "fast-moving island." Several of them came off to tlie vessel, bnt had little to barter, as all their hunters were away, but immediately we had been obser\ed they were sent for, and would soon arrive. Then, said they, "You will be gone, and how disappointed they will be." They appear a simple, kind CAPTAIN M'OLUDK S DESPATCHES. 5 people, very poor, very filthy, and, to us, looked exceedingly wretched. The time of our return was repeatedly inquired for by them. Thev would have a quantity of skins ; they were anxious for us to wait a little, that they might send off a supply of reindeer ; but, the boat returning, and the wind fair, I made them a few presents, and gave them a letter to be forwarded to the Russian Fur Companj-, and made sail to the eastward. Th^ wind being light as we ran close along shore, in from four to six fathoms, we had a great many visitors ; many of them had been their whole lives between the Coppermine and Point Barrow. These could give no information of the missing expedition. I am certain that had any of them reached these shores we must have heard of it. The coast is inhabited throughout, and the natives are, to all appearance, a kind and merry race, and when we gave them presents, through the medium of the interpreter, we told them that we were looking ff)r our lost brothers, and if they saw any white men in distress they were to be very kind ; to which they assented, by saying they would, and give them plenty of " deer's flesh." While running along the land, which is exceedingly low, observed upon Point Pitt two conical mounds ; thinking they might have some communica- tion buried beneath, ran in to examine them. While in stays the vessel took the ground, but was hove off almost immediately without any damage, the bottom being soft clay. The boat sent to examine the mounds reported them old Esquimaux caches, where they deposit their venison. They left a bottle, containing a notice of our passing. Upon rounding Cape Halkett on the morning of the 9 th, found the ice was set close to the shore, which rendered it a passage of much anxiety, great labour, and imminent risk, as the wind was strong from E.S.E., vpith thick fog, and the ice closing around us fast, so that we had barely space to work in, tacking frequently in five, and never beyond ten minutes, standing upon one tack, into three-and-a-half fathoms, and upon the other to four-and-a-half and six fathoms ; this operation was continued the greater part of the middle and all the morning watch. At 9 a.m. the weather cleared a little, and open water was observed in Smith's Bay; our soundings gradually in- creased ; the reaches became longer as we rounded the cape, and all apprehension of being forced on shore was over. August 10. — In crossing Harrison's Bay found the influence of the Colville to extend 12 or 14 miles, the surface of the water being of a dirty mud colour, and scarcely salt. The weather, thick and foggy, prevented any land being seen. Tlie soundings were very regular on one tack ; the ice allowed of our standing off to eight fathoms ; and on the other, the land to three-and-a-half fathoms, black mud. August 1 1 . — In the morning the weather cleared a little, and dis- covered to us Jones's Island. An erect piece of wood on the shore attracted the attention of the officer of the watch ; a boat was sent to examine it, when it appeared to be a piece of drift' wood, which had been squeezed up by the ice. The shore was strewed with it, and one spar was as large as our mainmast, and 45 feet in length. We erected a cairn and left a notice. In the forenoon about thirty natives came off in two baidars ; from whom we obtained some fish and ducks, in exchange for a little tobacco. They had been about two months on the coast, and trade with the Russian Fur Company. Their sur- prise, of course, was very great, particularly at the size of our hand- 6 CAPTAIN m'CLDEB'S DESPATCHES. kerchiefs (the sails) ; the whaleboats attracted their attention, and they asked if trees grew in our country sufficiently large to make them. The head man possessed a gun, with "Barnett, 1840, upon the lock ; this he obtained from the Russians. As a fair specimen ot the observation of these people and their aptitude for trade, the tol- lowing may be taken ;— Seeing that we cut the tobacco into pieces to give in exchange for their fish (salmon trout), they began to do the same with the fish. This, however, we would not admit, so they were obhged to come to our terras. During the afternoon, while standing along a low flat island, we observed a flag (a pair of sealskin inexpress- ibles) upon a lofty pole, and a number of natives around it ; we stood for them, but when the boats were pulling in they appeared to regret their temerity, for down came the sealskin, and away they ran. Shortly gaining courage, they returned, and, as we approached, arranged themselves in lijie upon the beach, and commenced extending their arms above their heads (typical of friendship), which being_ answered from the boats, perfectly assured them of our amicable intentions. Upon landing they evinced a most manly confidence, rubbing noses, and embracing most vigorously ; these were very cleanly, so that the operation was not so unpleasant as it otherwise might have been. Through the interpreter, Mr. Miertsching, we learnt that these people had never before seen a European, nor had they the smallest article of European manufacture about them (Lieutenant Pullen's boats they observed last year, but they were some distance ofi', and consequently had no communication). They live during the summer months upon these desolate islands, and in the winter retire a short distance on the mainland to their warmer residences. Their women and tents were upon another island. They were a fine active set of young men, average height about five feet six inches. These barter their skins, &c., with a tribe further west, who, in their turn, do the same with others, until they reach the Russian post upon the Colville. To them I intrusted a despatch for their Lordships, which they pro- mised most faithfully should be forwarded to the Colville. I made them a fe\y presents, also a boat's ensign, in commemoration of the first man-of-war whose flag has ever floated in these sterile regions. The magnificence of the gift they could not for some time comprehend, and were loth to touch it ; but at length the interpreter made them understand it was sent them by a great chief, and in return they were to be very kind to all white men they met, and sliow it to them ; all this they promised. The chief then seized it in his arms and ran across the island to his canoe, followed by the remainder of his tribe, and no doubt hurried with the joyful tidings to the women. We find a westerly set which prevents pur making but slight progress, the wind hanging so much to the eastward. On the morning of the 12th four baidars came alongside, containing the whole encampment of the tribe we met last night, and also some that we had seen two days previously, from which it appeared they are migratory ; tlit y brought oif a supply of fish and a quantity of -sciii- son, — but the liitter was in such a state of high putrefaction we could not touch it. We allowed most of the men to come on board, and, althougli well aware of their knavish propensities, and, consequently, a sharp look-out was kept upon them, they most adroitly managed to slip botii handles of our winch and a sm.all ice-anchor into their baidar. CAPTAIN M'CLURB's DESPATCHES. ,7 when the fair sex became the recipients. It was by the greatest acci^ dent that the theft was discovered by the end of one handle protruding, frorei beneath the ample proportions of the lady, who, when taxed, immediately returned the articles, and informed \ipon her husband. For this immorality the whole boat was exempted from receiving any present. Working to the eastward observed a few deer upon one of the low islands, but was prevented sending any boat, as a southeast cur- rent was setting us into shoal water very fast, so that all the boats were required to tow until 8 p.m., when a light air ran us to the westward into six fathoms ; the loose ice was in rapid motion, and the larger floe pieces, as they passed, appeared to create a current which frequently turned the vessel completely round against helm and sails, the power of a two-knot breeze being insufficient to counteract it. On the morning of the 13th we were enveloped in a dense fog, among exceedingly heavy and close-sailing ice, through which we attempted to work, but found that endeavouring to avoid one piece we ran upon another, striking occasionally with great forces which determined me to secure to a floe until it cleared. In this we fortunately succeeded, getting one that was grounded in seven fathoms. It was a heavy piece, but not so much so as many that were about us. I took its height above the water in seven places, which gave an average of II feet 1 1 inches ; a pack chiefly composed of such would be too powerful a foe for any ship long to con- tend against. At 8 a.m. of the 14 th, it having cleared a little, slipped from the floe, and commenced working to the eastward among masses of ice. At lO'SO a.m. observed a shoal just in time to avoid it ; it was completely hidden from view off deck, not being as high as the ice,' liaving a quantity of driftwood upon it, which is in great abundance along the coast. At 3'.30 p.m. our course was impeded by another of these low islands, which had the ice resting upon its northern extreme, while the southern point was flanked by a shoal, which connected it wilh the island seen in the morning. ^Vc were thus perfectly hemmed in. The boats were sent to sound, when Mr. Court represented a pas- s.'igc practicable in 3 fathoms. In rvuining through we unfortunately hit upon a spot with only 2^ fathoms, which had escaped observation ; we had consequently to lighten the vessel considerably before she got off, which, however, was accomplished without any damage (the bottom being sand) by 11 p.m., having been on shore five hours. I regret to add, that eleven casks of salt meat, which were placed in the first whale-boat, were lost by her upsetting, being compelled to place the provisions in the whalers, the cutters having the bower anchors in them. This was a serious loss j indeed, an irreparable calamity. As soon as we were off, it was my wish to return by the way we came in, but we found that the ice had set upon the shoal we had first observed, and cut off our retreat, under which circumstances I was obliged to anchor and wait a change of wind. Upon the IGth the wind came slightly from the westward, which set the ice in motion off the north point of tlie island. At 9 a.m. weighed and towed to the edge of the ice, which presented a barrier of about 500 yards in width between us and the open water we wished to get into. We commenced warping at 2 p.m., and so heavy was the ice that it was not until 8 p.m. that we could get through ; it fell calm, so made fast to the ice for the night. Next morning, the 17th, a very thick fog, with light north-east wind, and at 4 a.m. commenced kedging to the eastward, but at 7 a.m. gave 8 CAPTAIN M'CLURE'S DESPATCHES. it up ; the wind freshened, and unable to see for fog. At 2 p.m. it cleared; we slipped from the ice and plied to the north-east amid heavy steams and large floe pieces, vessel striking violently, but un- avoidably against them. August 18. — To-day, from the mast-head, observed the first lane of open water in the pack, extending east and west several miles, but very narrow. In the evening a fresh breeze from the south-west, and almost simultaneously a slight pitching motion was observed, which is con- sidered an infallible symptom of open water being near. It was so foggy that nothing could be seen ; but, notwithstanding, I shaped a course north-north-west for Banks's Land, thinking that we had rounded the pack, having coasted it between 400 and .500 miles ; we continued the greatest part of the night to run without much obstruc- tion, but upon the following morning, the 19th, our progress was checked by finding that we had run into a deep bight, which compelled us to work back again to the south-east. August 20.— Before getting clear of this pack, into which we had penetrated a considerable distance, being decoyed by a few lanes of open water, we were compelled to run 70 miles south, which placed us in lat. 69° 50' N. long. 13C" 50' W. It is seldom that observations can be obtained, this being only the sixth set since the 5th of the month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I ever remember to have met elsewhere. August 21. — We have succeeded in getting again into clear water. At 1 p.m. made the Pelly Islands, off the mouth of the Mackenzie ; the coast is, however, so excessively shoal, that I find it impossible to reach the main land, which I was very anxious to accomplish, but, at the distance of forty miles from it, was obliged to tack in 3 fathoms ; we passed the line of its tide most distinctly marked about ten miles further north, the water being the colour of the Thames at Woolwich, slightly brackish, and its temperature 39 degrees, the sea, four hours previously, being 28 degrees. From what I have observed of the pack, I feel convinced that any attempt to reach Banks's Land through it would only terminate in failure, and the consequent loss of valuable time, but by working between its edge and the shore, have confidence in making a good advance this season ; it is, therefore, my intention to pursue the latter method, and, in so doing, deviate from my original purpose of pushing into the ice, as mentioned in my letter to their Lordships, dated the 19th of July. August 22. — Fog during the whole of the night very dense, but, having much open water upon the eastern shore from the Mackenzie towards Cape Bathnrst, had no difficulty in working along it ; in soundings from four to eight fathoms, — which latter was the extent that the ice permitted us off shore. At noon a slight clear discoTered to us cluster of islands, which a very indifferent observation (lat. 69° 34' N., long. 135° 9' W.) points out as those of Pelly. August 23.— A fine clear day, the temperature rising to 40 degrees at noon. Made the northern extreme of Richard Island from the mast- head, and by a good observation established our position lat. 69° 54'N., long. 133° 48' W., the water towards the shore being perfectly clear of ice, which agrees with the account given by Sir John Richardson that the natives observe no ice for two moons ; but these never quit the land any distance, for were they to extend their ejccuj-sions 10 mijes further CAPTAIK M'CLURE's DESPATCHES. 9 north than ouv position, they would see the pack solid and impenetrable. This, however, gives ample space for navigation, the soundings being so exceedingly regular that, during the most foggy weather, we can stand in shore with the most perfect confidence to 3^ fathoms, A whale was seen to day, being only the third since rounding Point Barrow ; although upon the day we were off that point seven were counted. August 24. — Observed huts and natives off Point Warren. I hastily close this communication in the hope of its reaching their Lord- ships this year through Fort Good Hope, as I imagine these people communicate with the Mackenzie. I have written to the Company's officer at the above-mentioned post, to request his exertions in sending it forward. In conclusion, it gives me much pleasure to state that the whole of the crew are in excellent health and spirits. The season appears exceedingly favourable, the temperature being mild and the water perfectly free from ice along the shore as far as we can see. It was my intention to touch at Cape Bathurst, with the chance of being able to forward this despatch, which will now not be necessary, but I shall make the most of the remainder of the season by getting to the northward in pursuance of their Lordships' directions. I have the honour to be. Sir, Your most obedient, humble Servant, ; ROBERT M'CLUEE, Commander. //('/■ Miijcslij's DJscoveri/ Ship Investii/ator, of Cape Balliurst, Polar Sea; hit. 70° 23' N., long. 127" 57' W. ylugust 30, 18.50. Sir, — Having closed my despatch of the 24th, witli an intimation that it would be left near Point Warren with the natives observed from the ship, in accordance with that intention I proceeded to the shore. Why it was not so left I shall, in continuation of my narrative, relate. From the contiguity of this tribe to the Mackenzie, I was naturally led to imagine that their trade was with tiie Hudson's Bay Company. Great, ijierefore, veas my surprise upon approaching the beach to find, instead of being greeted with the usual friendly signs, that two savages, with gesticulations the most menacing, having bended bows with arrows on their strings, and one with a large knife, which he brandished most significantly, waved us off. Taking no heed of these hostile demonstrations, we pulled in ; they retreated, yelling furiously ; upon our reaching the full of the beach we made the same signs of friend- ship which we had made with the Esquimaux further west, but without any effect until joined by the interpreter, who was in full native cos- tume. This gave them confidence, and, upon his explaining our friendly intentions, they approached ; but when within about thirty yards, remarking some muskets which the boat's crew had, their fury revived ; to pacify them they were laid upon the ground, where they became the object of cautious examinationv; still unsatisfied, they beckoned to take them to the boat; seeing that nothing short of this would allow of any communication, I sent them away, when they approached, and per- mitted us to examine their bows and arrows. Mr. Miertsching informed me that we had been observed, at five 10 CAPTAIN M'OLUBE's DESPATCHES. o'clock in the morning; the whole tribe had immediately token to their baidars, with their most valuable skins, and left the settlement, with the exception of the chief and his son, who remained to defend their property, as it would have been undignified to retire when danger was apprehended. A sick son and his mother, seeing our friendly dis- position, soon joined us. Dr. Armstrong examined the poor lad's foot ; it was in a frightful state of mortification. The chief stated that they were at war with the neighbouring tribes, and had occasional skirmishes with the Indians ; that they had no communication with any person belonging to the Great River (Mackenzie), nor had they seen any white people before ; but, when the sea freezes (the latter, end of next month), the whole tribe proceed west and trade^with the Esquimaux whom we had met near Jones's Island. The interpreter told hira that he had found a brother in the chief of one of those tribes, whose name was Attau- was ; the old chief clapped his hands and said he knew him well ; that he was the great chief he traded with, and their reason for going such a distance, in preference to the Mackenzie, was that the white man had given the Indians very bad water, which killed many, and made others foolish (drunk), and that they would not have any such water ; from this it evidently appears that the Company lose annually many valuable skins, which find their way to the Colville, instead of the Mackenzie. Observing an old flat brass button suspended from the ear of the chief, he said it was taken from a white man who had been killed by one of his tribe, who went away in his kyack when the vessel was seen. The white man belonged to a party which had landed at Point Warren, and there built a house ; nobody knew how they came, as they had no boat, but that they went inland ; the man killed had strayed from the party, and that he and his son buried him upon a hill at a little distance. The only answer we could obtain as to the probable time when this transaction took place was, " that it might be last year, or when I was a child." To examine the grave I was very anxious, but was prevented by the state of the weather, becoming foggy with fresh breeze, which compelled our immediate return to the ship ; so, making them a few presents, we parted on very amicable terms. This intelligence appeared of so important a nature, with respect to the white men on the point, that I determined to remain until it became sufficiently clear to land and examine the house, which might possibly contain some indication of the missing expedition — this detained me 18 hours, but to have left with a doubt would have been a subject of perpetual regret. At 2 a.m., on the following morning, the 25th, we reached the Point, the weather being tolerably clear. The interpreter, Dr. Armstrong, and myself, went on shore in eager expectation of discovering some clue that would lead to a knowledge of the parties ; but in this we were miserably disappointed ; two huts, indeed, were there, to excite hopes, but upon approaching them we found the woodwork to be j)erfcctly rotten, and of a very old date, without any description of mark to yield the slightest information. The general appearance of the country about the Point was low and marsliy, covered with grass, moss, and flowers, the brpedino-])lapc of the eider-duck, and every" species of'wild fowl ; wc also re inaikod the footmarks of the fox and reindeer • so fertile a landscape I ennld not ,^^ti(^pate upon the shores of the Polar Sea. The interpreter, fi-om his knowlcilge of the customs of the Esquimaux, is of opinion that the story of the white man is traditionary CAPTAIN M'OLUEB'S DESPATOHBB. 11 — probably some of the. early discoverers had been engaged in some affray with the ancestors of the present chief, and one of them had been killed. The present generation inherit the honour, and so identify themselves with their forefathers, speaking of the transaction in the first person, as if they themselves were the actors ; which is very likely from the vague definition of the time — " it might be last year, or when I was a child ;" so the history of the white man will still continue a mystery. We also heard that last year two boats came from the west- ward, and landed at Point Warren, and then returned. I cannot imagine what boats these could be, unless they were those of Lieu- tenant Pullen, who, in thick weather, might have missed the Mackenzie, and, by sights obtained at the Point, discovered his error. They had not seen any this year. Aug 26. — N.E. winds and snow, occasionally clearing, so that the land could be discerned, which presented the same low line, with a few conical hills a short distance inland. We saw a few old tents, but not a native. Two whales passed us close to the vessel, one very large, although only in six fathoms of water. Aug. 27. — Light northerly winds and thick fog. It was my intention to send a boat alongshore, that she might examine it thoroughly, as the water to the eastward of Cape Brown permits us standing within two miles of the coast, and take her on board in the evening j but, under the circumstance of thick weather, I could not venture to do so, fearful of being detained by missing her. Aug, 28. —Light winds from N.E., with a mild, cloudy day. At noon. Cape Dalhousie S.W. 12 miles, several masses of drift ice, some of the pieces very heavy, which, however, is not any obstruction to our progress, as the space of open water is ample for sailing. We have found, during the last four days, a current varying from 11 to 16 miles daily, setting to the southward. We have had no opportunity of shooting ; the greatest part of the birds had taken their southern flight before our arrival ; the few flocks that we have seen were very shy, and unapproachable. Aug. 29.^ — Very dense fog, with light wind from N.E., which cleared' at noon sufficiently to obtain a meridian altitude, and found that we had been set since yesterday south 12 miles, Cape Dalhousie distant S.W. (true) 3 miles ; the .fog enveloped us again while standing off shore, when we ran into a narrow channel, having but three and a half fathoms on either side, which compelled us to bear up west. This carried us into deep water in about 15 minutes. In the course of the afternoon we fell in with very heavy drift ice, composed of large floe pieces, occasionally becoming entangled in consequence of the thick fog, although there was much open water among it. Aug. 30. — Wind from the northward, with clear weather. Observ- ing a mark on the beach upon the island off Maitland Point, in Liverpool-bay, sent Mr. Sainsbury (mate) to examine it, and to leave a notice of our passing. Upon his return he reported that an Esquimaux encampment had recently broken up, the traces of their tents and footmarks being quite distinct. We observed from the ship several reindeer, which were not seen by the party on shore. In standing along the coast, observing natives, I ran in to forward this despatch, trusting it might reach the Hudson's Bay Company this year, which is probable, if they are not as great a set of savages as we met near Point 12 ' ■- CAPTAIN m'CLURE's DESPATCHES. Warren. I hope to round Cape Bathurst - to-movrow. This will therefore, be the last communication which it will, in all probability, be in my power to make to their Lordships. The temperature has hitherto been exceedingly mild, thermometer being very seldom below 32°, and, from the present favourable appearance, both of the weather, and state of the ice, I have very strong hopes of getting well to the northward ere the^navigation ceases, which will be about the latter end of next month, according to Esquimaux report. I have the honour to be. Sir, ; Your most obedient humble Servant, , ROBERT M'CLURE, Commander. Her Majesty's Discovery S/iip Investigator, off Cape Bathurst, Polar Sea, Aiiqust 30, 1850, i n. Int.. 70° 28' iV., long. 128° 33' JF. Sir, — In accordance with the intention expressed at the conclusion of my last letter, I proceeded in the first whale-boat, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsching, followed by Lieutenant Cresswell and a party of officers in a cutter, bringing a variety of presents. We were met upon landing by two women, who greeted, us very cordially, and, through the medium of the interpreter, acquainted me that the remainder of the tribe were at Cape Bathurst, catching whales, which was at no great distance, and they would be our guides. Gladly avaihng ourselves of this apparently fortunate incident, the boats were directed to pull along shore, while we, ascending the cliff, reached a fine level plain, extending several miles north and south, rich with verdure, and abounding in moss. We preferred walking, hoping to meet some rein- deer, for which the pasture was excellent ; but mile after mile was walked without any appearance of the fishing party. Arriving, after the expi- ration of three hours, in a small bay, we were, however, gratified at being told this was the spot where two boats, the year before last, had pitched their tents for the night (Sir J. Richardson), and we had to go a very little further. On reaching the next bay, we found there two tents, which our guides said belonged to them ; but the Cape, or any appear- ance of the tribe, could not be seen. We declined going any further, as, in consequence of the wind falling light, the vessel was by this time hull down. We were then kindly invited to become partakers of their tents, and to go on the next morning, which hospitable offer was not accepted ; but, bartering several articles in exchange for salmon, and making them a few presents, we returned on board, when, at 10.30 p.m., it becoming dark and foggy, and getting into 3| fkthoms, we anchored for the night. August 31st, at daylight, found that we were between the mainland and Baillcy's Islands, about a mile from the latter, the weather still foggy, with a moderate N.W. breeze ; but determined, if possible, to discover the fishing party, at 7.30 a.m. I left the ship, with Mr. Mierts- ching and Dr. Armstrong in the cutter, and, after coasting about ten miles, discovered, upon the extremity of Cape Bathurst, a laige encamp- ment, consisting of 30 tents and nine winter houses, numbering a little over 300 people. Upon landing upon a very low isthmus, which connects within a few yards the islands and mainland, we remarked a commotion at the village, and a number of men rushed down the cliffs, launched CAPTAIN U'CLTJEe's DKSPATCUES. 13 their kyacks, and crossed to meet us.' Hauling these light and elegant skiffs on the beach, they advanced with knives drawn and bows bent,- evidently prepared for hostilities. Finding by our gestures that our intentions were amicable, their bows were returned to their sealskin cases, but the knives they still retained. The interpreter told them that our visit was friendly, and that they should put away their knives. " Yes," said they, " when you do your guns." To be allowed to carry the musket appeared a great favour, for which they presented you with their knife, as a token of friendship. We remained upwards of an hour ; during the greater part of the time, Mr, Miertsching was in earnest con- versation with the chief — a fine, intelligent, middle-aged man — upon the necessity of his forwarding our despatches to the Mackenzie, which he promised most faithfully to perform, for which he was to receive a musket and ammunition, and, upon his delivering the packet, a further reward equal in value to a silver fox-skin. He, however, said that their tribe do not trade with the Mackenzie, but with another further south, who in their turn traffic with the Indians who are in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company ; so, as they have to pass through three tribes of the heathen before they come into the hands of civilized man, I think it extremely probable that they may never reach their destination. Mr. Miertsching, from his knowledge of the Esquimaux character, thinks otherwise, and imagines that the chief will himself carry them. The perfect ease with which this gentleman understands and converses with these interesting people surprises them very much ; they were most anxious for him to remain, promising to be very kind. The chief pre- sented his daughter, a very pretty girl of about 1 5, who should be his wife ; tents and all appurtenances were to be added. While these nego- tiations were going forward, upwards of 100 persons had descended from tlie village ; with such a concourse I did not think it prudent to open the bag containing the presents, well knowing their cupidity is easily excited by the display of such valuables, when they are not to be relied on. We consequently returned to the boat. When the chief was instructed in the use of his gun, he showed himself an apt pupil, and when the ammunition was given into his hands, expressed himself very much gratified at the gift, and walked towards the village with his chief men. A line was then made on the beach, which the recipients of gifts were not to pass (and this they perfectly understood), and the inter- preter then commenced the distribution. For a little time order was maintained ; but the fair sex becoming clamorous and closing round, the line was broken, and, to prevent being driven into the water, we were compelled to retreat to the boat, Avhich was lying aground about 20 yards from the beach. Uy this manoeuvre, we escaped from all that i will assure their Lordships, that in every stage I have been guided entirely by what I have considered to be my duty in prosecuting to the utmost the object for which the expedition was fitted out ; and, although we have not succeeded in obtaining any information which could throw the slightest clue upon the fate of our missing countrymen, I hope that the services performed in the tracing a very great extent of coast line, the discovery of much new land — a portion inhabited b}' a simple and primitive people not hitherto known — and, above all, the accurate knowledge .of that passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans which, for so many hundred years, has baffled maritime Europe — -its very existence being almost considered sceptical — will be considered events sufficiently inter- esting and important to elicit from their Lordships a favourable con- sideration of our services. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient humble Servant, ROBERT M'CLURE, Commander. CAPTAIN m'CLUHE's DESPATCHES. 43 TABLE, Sliowiiig the Mean Height of Bavometer, with the Temperature of the Air on board Her Majesty's ship Investigator, from August 1830, to March, 1853: Year and Month. Barometer. Temperature of Air. Mean force of Maxi- Mini- Maxi- Mini- mum. mum. Mean. mum.- mum. Mean. wind. 1850. August . . 30-060 29^390 29^751 +50 +27 +36-5 3-5 September ■650 •470 •709 -1-46 - 1 -1-20-2 3-6 October . . •180 •380 ■861 +24 -23 + 0-2 2-0 November •270 •160 ■739 + 7 -32 -10-2 3-1 December ■560 •480 •978 - 4 -40 -23-4 2-5 1851. .Tanunry , . ■570 •400 •885 -15 -51 -32-5 February.. ■630 •030 •958 - 9 -51 -37-7 March •720 •338 •946 -.5 -51 -28-8 April ■610 •4.10 30^037 +38 -32 - 4-8 3-1 May ■600 •5gb •023 +47 - 5 + 18-9 2-2 June •150 •470 29^837 + 53 +27 +36-1 3-5 July •090 •450 •756 + 52 +32 +37-5 30 August . . •400 •390 ■865 + 52 +21 +37-6 ■ 2-8 September •270 •450 •876 +43 + 1 +24-6 3-1 October . . •200 •?00 •877 +2t3 -22 + 3-3 1-9 November ■750 ■630 30'097 + 10 -40 -15-2 1-8 December •810 ■490 ■046 + 11 -44 -20-0 3-5 1852. January . . , •600 ■280 29-841 + 8 -51 -27-3 3-4 February 31-000 ■070 ■777 - 1 -47 -25-8 3-1 March 31^000 •410 30^082 + s -52 -28-4 20 April 30^430 •520 ■164 +31 -38 - 1-4 2-5 May .r •250 •600 29.987 +37 -25 + 10-2 2-6 June ... . •100 •430 ■758 +51 + 11 +31-5 3-1 July •000 •370 ■749 +52 +30 +36-7 2-9 August , . , •170 •400 ■816 +52 +19 +33-2 2-9 September •100 •070 ■785 +38 - 4 +20-1 3-6 October . . •300 •440 •986 +16 -33 - 5^6 2-2 November ■680 •460 •978 + 9 -43 -16-5 3-1 December •670 28-970 •944 - 4 -48 -26-1 3-7 1853. January . . 30^120 29-180 29'748 -16 -65 -43-87 4-05 February •580 •400 30-058 -13 -57 -38-50 2-50 March •720 •540 •048 + 17 -58 -25- 4 2-30 46 CAPTAIN m'CLUKE's DESPATCHES. YEARLYABSTRACT. 1850. 1852. Barometer. Barometer. Maximum . 30-650 Maximum 31-000 Minimum . . 29-160 Minimum 28-970 Mean Air. . 29-828 Mean Air. 29-906 Maximum +5 Maximum . +52 Minimum —40 Minimum -52 Mean 1851. Barometer. 4-66 Mean 1853. Barometer. . +0-05 Maximum . 30-750 Maximum . 30-72 Minimum . . . 29-030 Minimum . 29-180 Mean Air. . 29-934 Mean Air. . 29-960 Maximum .. + 52-0 Maximum . +17 Minimum .. -51-0 Minimum —65 Mean +1-58 Mean . —35-92 ROBERT M'CLURE, Commander. Although this pamphlet only professes to give the despatches of Captain M'Clure, it is thought that a hrief narrative of the circum- stances which led to a knowledge of the position of the Invesligator, and to the despatches of Captain M'Clure being brought home, will be interesting to some readers, who may not have had an opportunity of seeing all the particulars which have, from time to time, been made public. It may be remembered that Captain CoUinson, in the Enterprise, having the Investigator imder his command, sailed from Woolwich on the 10th of January . 1850, and from Plymouth on the 20th of the same month.' They parted company soon after leaving England, and met again in the Straits of Magellan. After getting through the Straits, they experienced heavy weather, again parted company, and since that time have never met. The Investigator arrived at the Sandwich Islands on the 1st of July, the Enterprise having sailed on the morning of the same day. Captain M'Clure sailed again on the 4th, and, with the wind invariably in their favour, made a surprising passage to Behring's Straits. After communicating with the Herald, Captain Kellett, off Cape Lisbourne, and exchanging signals with the Plover, the Investi- NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 47 ffator pursued her course easterly, along the north coast of North America, and passed Point Barrow, under press of sail, on the 5 th of August ; since which time, nothing had been heard of her until the arrival of Lieutenant Gurney Cresswell, on the 4th of October, 1853, with despatches from Captain M'Clure. — — — ^ The despatch deposited by Captain M'Clure at Winter Harbour, Melville Island (as narrated page 37), was discovered by Lieutenant Mecham and his party, of the ship Resolute, Captain Kellett. The Resolute, together with the steamer Intrepid, by which she was accom- panied, forms part of the squadron under Sir Edward Belcher, com- • missioned with the arduous duty of searching for Sir John Franklin. In August, 1852) this squadron was at Beechey Island ;* and arrangements being completed, on the 14th of August Sir Edward, in the Assistance, accompanied by the Pioneer steamer, proceeded up WeUington Channel. On the following day, Captain Kellett took his departure westerly, leaving the North Star, Captain Fallen, with stores at Beechy Island, and, after some narrow escapes, reached Melville Island, in a bay of which (Bridport Inlet) he was frozen up on the 1 1th of September following. It was not long after his being thus fixed in winter quarters, that the discovery of Captain M'Clure' s despatches occurred ; but until March, 1853, no attempt could, with prudence, be made to visit him at Mercy Bay. The following extracts from a letter, written by Captain Kellett, will be read with much interest. After describing his passage from Beechey to Melville Island, alstf the place selected in the latter for wintering in, and the despatching of parties in various directions to form depotfe of provisions, he says : " Lieutenant Mecham, on his return through Winter Harbour, visited the sandstone, and found on it a record left by Captain M'Clure in May last, with a chart of his discoveries. I think you will read with interest his despatches, and will exclaim, as I did, when you come to this paragraph, ' Any attempt to send succour would only be to increase the evil,' — what a noble fellow ! As you may suppose, I was annoyed at not finding this record myself when at Winter Harbour. Not that I could have dtine anything. The Strait was too much broken up to attempt to communicate with sledges ; no boat navigation prac- ticable at that season on account of young ice, and not open enough for ships. It is beautiful to see how exactly M'Clure has completed all that was left by Austin and Rae, and how~ exactly their work joins. " M'Clure has actually discovered the North-West Passage. Some- thing in the annals of our country ; achieved by the industrious perse- verance of one of her own officers, who, I hope, will be considered worthy, and receive marks of high distinction. You should write this circumstance in red letter in your record. To this expedition is still left a fine field. I hope we may be able to make our eiForts, too, worthy of a red letter record." After describing the way in which the winter months had been passed by the ship's company, and giving particulars of the various exploring parties about to be despatched, he proceeds : "On the morning of the 10th of March, calm and fine, temperature • Beechey Island is a very small island to the north-west of Cape Riley ; too small for the scale of our map. 48 NOBTH-WKST I'ASSAGK. very low — 50°- Lieutenant Pirn and Doctor Domville, nine men and - six dogs, assisted by Mr. Roche and ten men, left for Banks' Laud. Three miles from the ship. Pirn's sledge broke down ; sent him on with another, which also proving weak, he sent the dogs back for another. He elTcamped within about eight miles of the ship. A furious northerly gale came on during the night, which detained them in their tents for four days. This was the earliest, and with the lowest temperature that travelling has been attempted in these regions before. I communicated with them on the fourth day ; — all well. No accident of consequence ; a nipped finger, face, or ear, the greatest. On the 14th they made another start, assisted as far as Point Hearne by a 10-man sledge. Dogs doing wonders. One man sent back, another went on in his place. The weather continuing beautifully fine and mild : temperature zero. " 19th April, 1853. This is really a red letter day in my voyage, and shall be kept as a holiday by my heirs and successors for ever. At nine o'clock of this day our look-out man made the signal for a party corning in from the westward. All went out to meet them and assist them in. A second party was then seen. Doctor Domville was the first person I met. I cannot describe to you my feelings when he told me that Captain 31'Clure was amongst the next party. I was not long in reaching him, and giving him many hearty shakes. No purer were ever given by two men in the world. "M'Clure looks well, but is very hungry. Ilis description of Plm's reaching the Harbour of Mercy would have been a fine subject for the pen of Captain Marryatt, were he alive. " M'Clure and his First Lieutenant were walking on the floe. Seeing a person coming very fast towards them, they supposed he was chased by a bear, or had seen a bear, and they walked towards him. On getting within a hundred yards they could see from his proportions that he was not one of them. Pirn began to screech and throw up his hands, his face as black as your hat. This brought the captain and lieutenant to a stand, as they could not hear sufficiently to make out his language. He was a considerable way ahead of his sledge — a solitary man, and that man as black as Old Nick. M'Clure says he would have turned and run if he had seen a tail or a cloven foot. At length Pirn reached the party, quite beside himself. Stammered out, (on M'Clure asking him, Who are you, and where are you come from?') ' Lieutenant Pim — Herald — Captain Kellett.' This was the more inexplicable to M'Clure, as I was the last person he shook hands with in Behring Strait. He at length found that the solitary stranger was a true Englishman ; an angel of light he says. He soon was seen from the ship. They had only one hatchway open. The crew were fairly jammed there in their endeavour to get up, to see — they did not know what. The sick jumped out of their hammocks, and the crew forgot their despondency ; in fact, all was changed on board the Investi- gator. One man had unfortunately died, by accidentally poisoning him- self, the morning of Pim's reaching here. On the l.^tli of April M'Clure had thirty men and three officers fully prepared to leave for the dep6t at Point Spencer. What a disappointment it would have been to them to find the miserable Mary yacht, and four or five casks of provisions, instead of a fine large depOt. Another party of seven were to have gone by M'Kenzie, with a request to the Admiralty to send out NOKTH-WEST PASSAGE. 49 a ship to meet him at Port Leopold in 1854. The thirty men are on their way over to me now. I shall, if possible, send them on to Beechey Island, with about ten men of my own crew ; to be taken home the first opportunity. "The seven remain by the ship. 7»iue«%aior will now have thirty-five men, officers, and all. I must stay here myself another winter, if In- vestigator does not break out this year. But Intrepid will go, please God, direct to England, with half Investigator's crew, and the portion of mine sent to Beechey Island." " 2nd May. Investigator's second party, consisting of Lieutenant Cresswell, Wynniatt, Mr. Piers, and Mr. Miertsching, arrived, bringing two men on their sledge. They made an extraordinary passage across for men in their state. The greater part of them are affected with scurvy, but are rapidly improving. " I have given M'Clure, who has been with me for fourteen days, orders to desert his ship if the medical officers are of opinion they cannot stand another winter, or if there are not twenty volunteers to remain. M'Clure is in capital health. I cannot explain to you my feelings on shaking hands with him. You will find from his despatch, \m, on Pirn's meeting him on the floe. I thought I had the best officers the navy could produce in the Herald. My present are certainly their equals. Nothing can exceed their zeal. My only duty has been to restrain within proper limits, and to direct it." ! rtl ( Her Majesty's Steamship Phoehix, off Thurso, October 4. /cPJ"^^ - Sir, — I have the honour to report to you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, my arrival from the Arctic regions, bringing with me the important intelligence of the safety of the Investigator, and the discovery of the North- West Passage, though, unhappily, without finding the slightest traces of the missing expe- dition, either by this route, or on the field of search occupied by the squadron under Sir Edward Belcher's command. I am the bearer of despatches from that officer and Captain Kellett ; and Lieut. Cresswell, of the Investigator, whom I appointed from the North Star as supernumerary to this ship, is charged with the letters and journals of Commander M'Clure. By the Diligence their lordships will have been informed of my proceedings up to the time of my arrival at Disco.* I will, therefore, now briefly state what we have since done, and then, in obedience to the fifth clause of their lordships' orders, relate what information I have obtained with reference to the expedition, and the discoveries which have })een made. On leaving Disco I proceeded, with the Breadalbane in tow, to Upernavik, there to obtain dogs, and to communicate with the Inspec- tor of North Greenland concerning the disposal of the Rose of Hull. On the afternoon of the 14th of July we reached this place, and the ships heading off while I landed, in two hours we proceeded up the coast. Tlie following day, passing Cape Shakleton in a calm, I took advan- * Disco Island is offtlie coast of Greenland, just beyond the limit of the accom- panying map. 50 NOETH-WEST PASSAGE. tage of the fine weather to obtain some looms from the Rookery for the use of the Arctic ships, and in three hours we obtained a sufficient quantity to give each of our own vessels a day's fresh meat, reserving enough to supply the North Stars crew with provisions for teu days, independent of the sheep we brought from Ireland. On the 16th of July we entered Melville Bay, and found it packed with ice, in some places very heavy, from recent pressure, and the land floe unfortunately broken away, thus depriving us of the advantage of its edge for docking the vessels, in case of a threatened nip. On the 1 1 th of July, owing to damage sustained in the ice, it became necessary to shift the screw, and this was done while beset among heavy floes, almost out of sight of laud. From the mast-head no land could be seen at mid-day, or, indeed, any water but the pool in which the ships were afloat, but at midnight we proceeded along a narrow lane which opened away to the northward. Thick fogs and southerly winds, which closed the ice up, prevented our getting through Melville Bay till the C5th of July, when we stretched away from Cape York for Cape Warrender. Fog prevented our taking observations while crossing over, and experiencing a strong southerly set we found, on the weather clearing, that the ship was within two miles of Cape Liverpool, though we had steered for Cape Warrender with due allowance for currents. Reaching over to the north shore (which we then kept close on board), we steered up Lancaster Sound, passing large floes which were driving to the westward. On the morning of the 29th of July we found a barrier of ice stretch- ing from shore to shore, and which evidently had never broken away this season. We followed its edge for several miles, in the hope of find- ing a lane through, but were eventually obliged to bear up for Dundas Harbour (in Croker Bay), there to await a change. In coasting towards this anchorage we were surprised at beholding several tents pitched on a point six miles to the westward of Cape Warrender, but shortly found them to be the habitations of a party of Esquimaux, who had come over from Pond Bay. Among these people I found many preserved meat and potato tins, the former bearing Mr. Goldner's name, candle-boxes, some spars, and other Government stores, which led me to fear that they had visited the depot at Wollaston Island. In Dundas Harbour we lay for eight days, anxiously awaiting the breaking up of the ice; and on the 6th of August, hoping that I might be able to examine, and if necessary remove, the stores from Wollaston Island, we got under way and stretched across in that direction ; but heavy hummocky ice prevented our even sighting it, and we were forced to bear up again for the north shore. By this time a light north-westerly wind had eased ofi^ the ice, and I determined to push on as far as practicable under steam. The wind holding for forty-eight hours, we were fortunate enough to reach Beechey Island on the 8th of August. In many cases the ice opened just as we reached a block, which would otherwise have stopped our progress ; and we were told by the officers of the North Star that no water was to be seen from Cape Riley the day before we arrived. Thus their lordships will per- ceive that no time was lost in reaching our destination. NORTH-WJiST -pASSAGE. 51 During tny stay at Port Dundas (which is immediately under the cliffs forming Cape Warrender), I ordered a large cairn to he huilt on a remarkable rocky peninsula at its entrance. This cairn is upwards of 16 feet in height, 20 feet in circumference, and painted red with a white cross. Its position is such that a vessel sighting Cape "Warren- der must perceive it, and as nearly all the whalers every year sight this cape, I conceived it to be an admirable position (should their lordships desire to send any despatches to Sir Edward Belcher next year by the whalers) for these despatches to be deposited. Erebus and Terror Bay being full of heavy hummocky ice, of great thickness, impervious to the saw or the blasting cartridge, and too rough and too much inundated with deep fresh-water pools to admit the possibility of landing the stores on Beechey Island, or putting them on board the North Star (a mile and a half distant), according to my orders. I had, therefore, no choice but to place them in what I deemed the most convenient and practicable position, and in my capacity as senior officer at Beechey Island, determined on- Cape Riley as the fittest spot, and even more accessible than the island. Accordingly, on the following morning we commenced our work, and having secured the transport in a bight of the land ice, immediately abreast of the steep cliff, the people were now set to work, watch and watch, night and day. To expedite the service, I ordered all hands to be sent from the North Star, with their hammocks, and desiring them to be victualled from our ship. The time was thus saved which would have been lost by their going and returning to their vessel, upwards of two and a half miles distant. The steamer lay with her fires banked up, and her hawsers in, ready, at a moment's warning, to take the transport off-shore, in case of the ice closing ; and now, everything being set forward systematically, and 130 tons of coal landed in the first thirty hours, I determined to pro- ceed myself up Wellington Channel, by boat and sledge, in search of Captain Pullen, who had been absent from the North Star a month ; and, as his provisions must have been expended, there was some appre- hension as to his safety. I had the double motive of desiring to convey to Sir Edward Uelcher his despatches, as it would only be by such means he could possibly learn of my arrival until next season, unless he should return to Beechey Island. I started in my whale-boat, with a month's provisions, at 9 a.m. on the 10th of August, leaving written orders with the First Lieutenant, a copy of which I enclose, marked "M 1," in case of any unforeseen casualty preventing my return to the ship Vy the time the transport was cleared, to run no risk of the ships being caught for the winter, but to proceed to England without me. Wellington Channel was then full of ice, and so rough with large cracks and pools that it defied sledging, excepting with a strong party. Landing, therefore, on Cornwallis Island, a little above Barlow Creek, we made an attempt to carry a small punt over the ice ; but this proved ineffectual, and I determined at last to proceed with Mr. Alston, mate of the North Star, and two men, by land, to Cape Rescue. Each carried a blanket bag, with a fortnight's provisions, and reached, with 52 NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. much exertion, the Cape, at 5 p.m. of the 13th of August. A piece of open water off Helen Haven, prevented our proceeding farther ; and here we learnt by notice, of Captain PuUen's return to his ship, and his having communicated with Sir Edward Belcher. Depositing in the cairn duplicates of their lordships' dispatches for that officer, we commenced our return ; and reached the tent on the tifth day of our absence, footsore and much exhausted with this new mode of journeying in the Arctic regions, having travelled 120 miles; sleeping without shelter on the bare beach, at a temperature several degrees below freezing point, was a trial for all, more especially as we could not eat the pemmican, and subsisted wholly on biscuit and tea, ,with the exception of a few dovekies which I shot. Up till the 12th of August, Wellington Channel was blocked with ice as far as the eye could reach. The plan marked " O 1 " shows its position at this date, and the alteration I have made in the coast line of the western shore. I returned to the ship on the afternoon of the 15th of August, and found that wind and changes in the ice had obliged the first lieutenant to move the transport away from Cape Riley, and that the process of unlading had been carried on but slowly by means of sledges ; 856 packages had, however, been transported to the North Star by these means On the 1 7th of August, a hfeavy gale from the south-east set the ice on to the Cape so suddenly and with such violence that both ships narrowly escaped being lost. The Phcenix was severely nipped, the ice bearing down upon her with such force that the six hausers and two cables laid out were snapped like packthread, and the ship forced against the land ice, lifting her stern five feet, and causing every timber to groan. The hands were turned up, to be ready in case the ship should break up ; though there would have been small chance, in such an event, of saving a man, as the wind blew so violently, with snow, that it was impossible to face it, and the ice in motion around the ship was boiling up in a manner that would have defied getting a safe footing to the most active of our crew. Having once more got her alongside the derrick, we commenced to clear with all hands, as I intended to finish the work without cessation, if we laboured all night. While thus employed, I received by an ofiicial letter from Captain PuUen (a copy of which I enclose, marked "L 1,"), a report of the melancholy intelligence of the death of M. Bellot, who had been sent by Captain PuUen on his return during my absence, to acquaint me of the same, and to carry on the original despatches to Sir Edward Belcher. This unfortunate occurrence took place on the night of the gale, when M. Bellot with two men were driven off from the shore on a floe ; and shortly after, while reconnoitering from the top of a hummock, he was blown off by a violent gust of wind into a deep crack in the ice, and perished by drowning. The two men were saved by a, comparative miracle, and, after driving about for thirty hours without food, were enabled to land and rejoin their fellow-travellers, who gave them pro- visions ; and then all returned to the ship, bringing back in safety the despatches, but three of them fit subjects only for invaliding. A separate letter will give their lordships' further information relative NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 53 to the death of this excellent officer, who was sincerely r^retted hy us all. His zeal, ahility, and quiet unassuming manner made him, indeed, beloved. The ice closing again obliged us to quit Cape Riley before midnight, and, in endeavouring to push the ship into a bight in the land floe, the Phmnise touched the ground ; but came off again immediately without damage. The whole night was spent in struggling to get the ships into a place of security ; but the ice drove both vessels fast to the westward, vfhen at 3-30 a.m. of the 21st of August, the ice plosing all round, both vessels were secured to a floe edge, but with steam ready to push through the instant the ice should loosen. Shortly, however, a rapid run of the outer floe to the westward placed the Phoenix in the most perilous position. I ordered the hands to be turned up, not that aught could be done, but to be ready in case of the worst to provide for their safety. The ice, however, easing off, having severely nipped this vessel, passed astern to the Breadalbane, which -ship either received the pressure less favourably, or was less equal to the emergency, for it passed through her starboard bow ; and in less than fifteen minutes she sunk in thirty fathoms of water, giving the people barely time to save themselves, and leaving the wreck of a boat only to mark the spot where the ice had closed over her. Antici- pating such a catastrophe, I got over the stern of the Phcenix, as soon as the transport was struck, and was beside her when she filled, and can unhesitatingly state that no human power could have saved her. Fortunately, nearly the whole of the Government stores had been landed. Having taken on board the shipwrecked crew, every precaution was used with regard to the safety of Her Majesty's steam-vessel ; but it was not till the morning of the 22nd of August that we succeeded in getting her to a safe position in Erebus and Terror Bay, where the ship was again secured to the land floe. '' [pn the 24th of August, Captain Inglefield left Beechey Island for England ; bu-t was shortly forced by a fog to take shelter in a little harbour he discovered, and which he named Port Graham. Here he lay during a violent gale from the eastward, which, he says, was so furious in its4;usts, that though the ship lay under the lee of a lofty hill, she drove, with two anchors, ahead. From the vast bodies of ice driven up by the gale, he had a narrow escape from being frozen in for the winter ; but with the aid of steam and sail, he succeeded, on the 1st of September, in getting out through a narrow opening, — clearing Lancaster Sound on the 3rd, arriving at Disco on the 9th instant, and_ at Thurso on the 4th of October. — (Captain Inglefield proceeds to say :)J At Lieveley I obtained information of a coal mine about 26 miles from the harbour, on the southern shore of the island, and I am told that the coal to be obtained here is in such quantities that a ship might take 1,000 tons. For burning in stoves, it is preferred by the Danes to English coal. I obtained a sufficient quantity of an inferior sort to make trial in our boilers. A copy of the chief engineer's report I enclose, marked " L 7," and I have retained on board four casks of this fuel for their lordships' disposal. I have now, in concluding the intelligence gained concerning the Arctic searching squadrons, to acquaint their lordships of the dangerous 54 NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. position in which the North Star passed the winter. Shortly after I left Beechey Island in my yacht, the Isabel, in 1852, a violent gale which I encountered in the Straits drove the North Star on shore, where she remained during the whole winter, and was only got off this spring, with much difficulty. I omitted to mention that on our return south through Baffin's Bay, we tried for soundings at a spot marked in the track chart, with 2,870 fathoms, without getting bottom. The line was upwards of three hours and a half in running out, and the lead employed more than a half hundred weight. — (This despatch is signed " E. A. Inglefield, Commander") The following letter, from Rear-Admiral W. E. Parry, copied from the Times of November 9th, gives an interesting sketch of the proceed- ings of Lieutenant Cresswell, of the Investigator, the bearer of Captain M'Clure's despatches, from the time he left his ship in Mercy Bay until he arrived in England : — ■ Before Captain M'Clure left the Investigator for Melville Island, he arranged for Lieutenant Gurney Cresswell to follow with the more sickly part of the crew. The party consisted of Mr. Wynniett (mate, now lieuteuant, invalided home), Mr. Piera (assistant- surgeon), Mr. Miertsching (Esquimaux interpreter), and 24 petty officers, marines, and seamen. April 15t h. at 5.30 a.m. — They left the ship, the remaining part of the officers and ship's company giving them three hearty cheers. There was one sick man on the sledge from the time they left the ship until their arrival at the Resolute. The wind blew strong from the west- ward, with snowdrift ; but, as all the requisite arrangements had been made for their start. Lieutenant Cresswell did not postpone it. At 6 p.m. they sighted the eastern land of the bay, and found by it that they had made a good course. Shortly after leaving the ship, Corporal Farquharson and Joseph Tacey broke down, and were obliged to fall out of the drag ropes — the former having pains in the chest, the latter suffering from a fall shortly before leaving the Investigator. They encamped on Point Back, about ten miles from the ship. On the 16th they started at 6 a.m., but travelling proved very heavy, and the men already showed signs of weakness. The 17th they rounded Cape Hamilton. The ice had been thrown up by tremendous external pres- sure, between which and the land they had to drag the sledges. To accomplish this they were obliged to double-man the sledges — taking two over at a time. As soon as they found a chance of pushing their way through the hummocky barrier that lined the shore, they struck off on to the sea-ice, and encamped about two miles from the land. April 22nd. — They sighted Melville Island. Their daily journeys varied ; sometimes the sun gave them a look to cheer them on their way, but, generally speaking, the weather was gloomy ; the men suffer- ing from weakness and fatigue, and the difficulty of drawing the sledges increasing from day to day. The ice was extremely rough and hum- mocky. One day they came upon a large field of ice, from which the wind had blown away the snow, and the weight of the sledges appeared comparatively nothing. They were passing rapidly along, when one man was found to be missing. It was a poor fellow who had showed symptoms of mental imbecility, but until then had travelled with the NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 53 rest. The detention was grievous, but unavoidable. They sent back to search for him, and found him in a pond of melted snow. From that time great difficulty was experienced in getting him along. He was always throwing himself on the snow to he down. They dared not put him on one of the sledges, as already the weight was great enough for their enfeebled party, with one man totally unable to walk and their needful baggage. April 30th. — At 6.30 a.m., just as they were beginning their day's march, two men were seen coming towards the tents from the eastward. They proved to be Mr. Pim and a seaman, with a sledge and dogs ; he had been sent out by Captain Kellett to assist- them in, and land some stores in Winter Harbour. He was much surprised to find this party so far advanced in their journey. Lieutenant Cresswell wished him to land the things, as they did not require any immediate assistance. At this time Charles Anderson, being unable to walk any further, was taken on the sledge. Notwithstanding this extra weight, "they made excellent progress, the men being in high spirits on the strength of being so near the Resolute. May 2nd. — They started at 1 1 p.m., and arrived on board the Reso- lute ax i a.m. on the following day. Captain Kellett and M'Clure met them on the floe. Captain Kellett gave them the heartiest welcome. The journey from the Investigator was made in 1 6 days,*the distance 1 70 miles. The day following (May 4) Captain M'Clure set off on his'tefui-'n to his ship, and was accompanied by the surgeon of the Resolute, with instructions to examine into the health of the crew ; Captain Kellett, as senior officer, hwiug determined that, if 20 able-bodied men volun- teered to remain with Captain M'Clure, that dauntless officer should be at liberty to stay by his ship and attempt to bring her through, should the season render it possible. It was Captain Kellett's strenuous wish that a party of ih^ Investi- gator's men should go on to the North Star, at Beechey Island ; but as, out of 24, only two were not affected with scurvy, he was obliged to abandon the design. Captain Kellett placed the Investigator's de- spatches in the hand of Lieutenant Cresswell, with directions to proceed to the North Star, in company with Mr. Roche (mate), with a party of 11 men, the boatswain of the Resolute, and Lieutenant Wynniett, of the Investigator. , On the 13th of May they saw two musk oxen. Lieutenant Cresswell and Mr. Eoche went in pursuit. They wished to have shot only the cow, but, having wounded her, the bull would not let them approach her ; they, therefore, had to shoot him also. The sledge being very heavily laden, they could not take more than the hind-quarters of the cow away with them. Such is arctic life. For 18 months before quit- ting the, Investigator ne&viy starved, and now leaving 800 or 900 pounds of excellent fresh beef for the wolves and foxes ! On the morning of the 2nd of June they arrived on board the North Star, Captain PuUen, at Beechey island. The journey was 300 miles, and had occupied four weeks to accomplish. On the 8th ofcAu^ -ust the Phoenix arrived, commanded by Captain Inglefield. At that time Captain Pullen had been away a month from the North Star, to communicate with Sir Edward Belcher. By the ADVBHOTSEMENTS. time be returned the season was. rapidly advancing, and the ppi'nioji of the ijiost-experienced was decided that Captain Inglelield, in. the Phmnix, should, no'i'longer dejay his return home,- by -^aitiilg for Sir: Edward. Belcher's arrival at; JBeecheiy Island. h :. ,. r. ■ : ' On the 23Td of August the BAqsnix left Beecbey, Island. She toiwhed at DiscPj-at Lieyely taking in coals, and at Holjesteinburgh, where they put m, to complete tbeir astroijomical ob"servations. . At botbi places they mfet with! Esquimaux, audjc^ined with them in the dance and stog. The women were clean and neat,^ and peculiarly siojple andi modest, jji; tbeif conduct. . i* . ; .s .■.'.■ ■ . ' On tbe'^th of Octobe^i^ Captain Inglefield and Lieutenant CiiessiKell land^dtat Thurso, at the extrem.e north of Scotland. Fifty4;bree' hours! travelling brought them to jy^don. . On Friday',.; Olctober 7th," they arrived at the Admiralty withctidings that the geographical: question of the long sought for North-Wpst passage bad been satisfactorily solved. BETTS'S FIMILT ATLAS; ' ^ OF, SENERAl iioSHISICAl GEOfiEAPHY, INCLbDING A COPIOUS INDEX . OB" -NEAELY FIFTY- FIVE THOUSAND NAMES". ... - ■•'-'■' J .. ' - , . ';.•: ... .-r • • , JEHegantl]/ but'suistanfiiillff Salf bound in Turkey ^qrocm, prioe ',;. '. .Wt'fee-G'mneg,^, . i .! .; „ ;;' _ i'4.\\- '.i !'-" '- , ^'-i Th.e':PRE&iDENT of the Royal Geographicai,Socie.t.t, in.hiaainnual address to the members, .im speaking of' thi« Atlas, s^s,;— '.'Mr. Betts has published an .^XLAS, .contadnifl^', jora.e NE-«v.,Ej|iiJ!:tjREs, ah^ VenJered extremely valuable^ by, a most copious In-dex: comprising, nearly 55,000 names of places. In aa'dilion t'd' ithe latitudes and longitudes tusually* given, tljere is' an arrangeihent, by reference to which, the situation of any required '.place cam be easily learned, &c:,.&c.. Several entirely new maps of Iiidia^'Qaiii^aJiJ'olynesia, See,, afe also iufrodiioed." The great advantage of the mode of reference alluded to in the foregoing, para- graph, and which is peculiar to this Index, can only be fully appreciated by a|ios^ who have frequent occasion to consult an Atlas. By means of it, the eye is ajinost instantaiiepusly directed to the point of the map where the. n^me appears,' ami fte whole object is usually accomplished in less time than is necessarily eipSitl'ea in asiertoining the projectiolial proportions of a map, preparatory to reference' ojv'^the eld system. . , . .', i ,• '■ In the presfijit edition of the Atlas',' a large number of new, andhj^hly important maps have .bgen.jijJtroSuoed; (making, in all SixTY-.FOUR),..^nd t^e whole, work has undergone a, thorfiugh j.a^d carefufiievision. The Maps of, J^J'blanDi 'Wales, Scotland, and IpELAHD, are on 5B',unUBually large, s^ale, and extraordinary care has been exercised in order to exlfbit the various lines' of Railroad with minute- ness and accuracy: the Turnpike afid. principal. Cross-roads, Mountains, Rivetsj fjSnals, &c., lire alsoiofiijefuljy deline'^tg.d ; and spineddeajof ith« elaborate oharacijer of tlie .wor^ maybe iniierrejl^^pBi (he .tact, that the.Jtfap of England and 'Wales alone coiitaihs nearly 9,000 n'am'es. ' " ', ' , The Maps of the British Colonies.Ve also on ,a 'large scjijei and a continuous eare,will be maintained tb ii'itrpduo^ VU liew discoveries '4nd settlements as they fnay! occilr J' and the proprietor feels cohflVldnf that no work of the kind, either as I'eSpeets price or. quality, will be found more deserving of public favour.