Wo-son GC376 TSS^tMi^ ^lIMQi- CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE WASON CHINESE COLLECTION Cornell University Library GC 376.M82 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023274164 REPORT ON THE BOEE or THE TSIEN-TANG KIANG, BY Commander MOORE, E.N., H.M.S. "Rambler." PUBLISHED BY ORDER OP THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMIRALTY, AND SOLD BY J. D. POTTEE, Agent for the Sale of Admiralty Charts, 31, POtTLTRY, AND 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 1888. Price Two Shillings and Sixpence, CHINA. REPORT ON THE BORE OF THE TSIEN. TANG KIANG. H.M.S. " Rambler," NiNGPO, bth November 1888, Sir, The survey in Chinese waters by H.M.S. " Rambler " approach- ing its close it seemed a fitting termination to a long series of tidal observations in this region that, before the end of this, the final season, some observations should be made of the Bore of the Tsien-tang. , The published information concerning this special tidal phenomenon is exceedingly meagre, even respecting those rivers where it occurs in the British Islands ; and with regard to this particular instance — the Tsien-tang — scarcely anything is known about it. Although it occurs twice a day throughout the year, 70 miles from Shanghai, and within an easy walk of Hang-chau, the once famous capital of the Empire, now that of the province of Chekiang ; and though the access to the river on which it travels is easy from the Yangtze Kiang, the mere mention of the existence of the phenomenon is all that can be found in published works of either an official or non-oflficial character.* I therefore considered it would be a legitimate deflection from my surveying duties in the Chusan archipelago, to spend two or three days in the Hang-chau estuary, and endeavour to find out the height, speed, origin, and general character of the Bore of the Tsien-tang- kiang ; and at Full Moon in September, before visiting Shanghai for coal and leave, I proceeded in Her Majesty's ship under my command to a position at the south-west end of Chapu bay. I have, now, the honour to submit an account of our observations and the means by which they were obtained, dividing my remarks into I. — Narrative * The latest edition of Webster's Unabridged Dictionary mentions the Bore as one which in reality deserves the name. Where the Author got his information from is a mystery. S.0. 10833,— 200.— 1/89, Wt, 19231. P, & S, A 2 of boat expeditions for the purpose of observing the Bore. 2.— Summary of observations, with particulars of height, appearance, ,and. times of passing the observer. III. — Native view of the Bore. Opinion as to the cause of the phenomenon. Review of the observations and general conclusions. The appendices consist- of copies of tide journals, comparisons of difEerences of level of the sea at certain stations, evidence and proofs as to height and speed, returns of astronomical observations. On the morning of the 19th September the " Rambler " was moored in 17 fathoms north of an island situated close to the south- west cape of Chapu bay, which was named after the ship, and which proved to be in latitude 30° 26' 1" N., and longitude 120° 58' 4" E. This is not a good anchorage ; but it was necessary to erect a tide pole on the island to take observations for latitude and longitude and so forth ; and no better could be obtained. Navigation west of Rambler island is attended with danger not only on account of the shoal water but the rapid tides and overfalls, especially • the first violent rush of the flood, which, though here seldom adopting the distinctive character of a Bore, is of sufficient force to test the strongest ground tackle.* Lieutenant Simpson was directed to obtain the geographical position, and conduct the tidal observations at this station. He succeeded in putting up his pole and starting the record by 9.30 a.m. on the 20th. At 8.15 on the morning of the 20th September, the steam cutter "Pandora" (in my charge) ; the sailing cutter "Brunswick" in charge of Lieutenant Purey-Cust, with a reduced crew and party of officers comprising Mr. Dawson, Mr. Beal, and Doctor Bassett Smith ; and the steam cutter " Gulnare " in charge of Lieutenant Parry, left the ship with instruments, tide poles, and coal and provisions for a week. The distance to the entrance of the river was about 30 miles ; the flood had begun, and I hoped to carry it up behind the Bore (which I believed formed at the mouth of the river) to the city, a distance of about 45 miles. I must here remark that what I call the entrance to the Tsien-tang-kiang, is that part where the coast of the right or south bank trends abruptly to the southward, and where Haining is situated on the north bank. The area east of this will be alluded to as the Hang-chau estuary. Lieutenant Parry was to be left with a tide pole and instruments at the island supposed to exist at the mouth of * Page 406 China Sea Directory, Vol. iii., contains the account of an accident to H.M.S. " Flamer " (commanded, I believe, by the present Admiral Bosanquet) from this cause. She was some 2 or 3 miles west of Rambler island. the river (see chart, No 1,262), and another tide pole was to be erected near the city. Six or seven miles west of Rambler island the marks on the rocks indicated a far smaller range of tide than in Chapu "bay. I have no figures to support my statement ; but I believe the rise and fall to be higher at the island than at any other point in the estuary. After passing the islands ofE the Kanpu (of Marco Polo) we rah into 5 feet. About 9.45 a junk, tacking about inshore, was spoken with. The master of her said there was more water outside than inshore. If we wanted to go up to the city along the shore, we must anchor and wait till the afternoon. He said nothing about the Bore.* On hearing the interpreter's account, I edged out towards the middle of the estuary, getting 4 to 7 feet, the stream still in our favour ; and selecting what appeared to be the most likely gap in the mountains answering to the course on the chart for the entrance to the river, steered for it. All went well until 11.30, by which time wo must have steamed over the ground 14 or 15 miles in a S.W, by W. direction from Kanpu. Here I touched the ground, and being unable to stop the boat from going on to the bank, let go the anchor. The cable instantly ran out to the clinch and carried away some fittings in the bows, injuring one of the crew, the boat swung violently round as far as the keel would let her ; and, signals notwithstanding, the boats astern, being unable to stop their way, rapidly came up to the same spot. The "Gulnare," casting off the "Brunswick," judiciously kept herself afloat ; but the latter fell upon the " Pandora," and bounding off, drove on to the bank, and over it, until brought up by her anchor. To my relief, she was seen riding easily as soon as the tide floated her, her smaller draught affording her a great advantage in not opposing so much resistance as the steam cutters. As soon as the "Pandora " floated, I went full speed ahead, but found it impossible to slacken the cable, and that we were driving rapidly to the north- west with 31 fathoms chain out. Three minature waves passed, fortunately not putting any water in our laden boats. The " Gulnare " finding herself unable to stem the stream also anchored.f * Two hours later, when we were driving with anchors down before the after-rush, this junk was seen flying into the river on the back of the Bore. No doubt, he was waiting for the first overfalls to pass by. t This was the commencement of the southern branch of the Bore. We had started an hour too soon. We -were forced to remain here one hour, the steaitl cutters gradually dragging past the "Brunswick" to the north-west. By patent log Mr. Parry found the speed of the stream to be 10 to 11 knots an hour, and the water to rise 9 feet in 30 minutes. As I had the dingy astern it was difftcult to keep my log clear, but it showed a rate of 9 knots for the first rush, and the tail was rievolving against the bilge of the boat astern. In page 407 China Sea directory, volume 3, there is an account of Captain Collinson's experiences near the same spot — evidently about the same time of tide. He found the speed of the flood to be 11^ knots. His island, Pe-yu-shan, I could not identify ; but a line of very low cultivated land was seen to the southward. At 12.45, the steam having slackened, we were able to weigh the anchors. After consultation with Lieutenant Cust, I steered to the northward, and eventually found the entrance of the Tsien-tang at 4 p.m. It proved to be very low land, and 8 miles in error in latitude.* A junk was observed standing up the river, and it appeared to be the best course to follow her, bearing in mind that she, as well as ourselves, had to find a place of safety before the arrival of the next Bore. As I neared this junk, she put her helm up, and beached on the south bank about 4.15, the tide having now fallen about 6 feet out of 19. I immediately ran ashore as close to her as possible ; but drawing three feet to her two, did not reach the same place by 300 or 400 yards. The ebb stream was now making fast, and Lieutenant Parry, with the "Brunswick" in tow, though he made every endeavour to reach me, was unable to do so ; and both boats grounded about one third of a mile to the eastward, a deep gutter of swiftly-running water being between us. The junk men, on being consulted, assured me that the four boats were in safe positions ; but that care must be observed in laying out the anchors. The Bore would pass along the opposite shore, but the flood stream, after it had passed, would approach the boats from the north-east with some violence. Later on, when the water had fallen another 6 feet or so, a junk man and the interpreter found their way across to Lieutenant Cust with a letter ; and every precaution was taken by that officer and Lieutenant Parry to guard against injury to their boats. The anchors, which weighed 60 lbs., were buried and backed up — ^in the case of * There is no island off the mouth, as delineated in Chart No. 1,262. the " Brunswick " by a 30 lb. anchor— in that of the " Gulnare " by 4 sinkers, each weighing ^ cwt. The " Gulnare " had 33 fathoms chain taut, with a 2-cwt. bag of coal on the bight of it, 1^ fathoms from the anchor. The " Brunswick " had 30 fathoms grapnel taut, and two 2-cwt. bags of coal secured to the grapnel near the anchor. In each case the coal bags were secured at the mouth sufficiently, as it was thought, to prevent the contents falling out ; and the bottom was tolerable holding ground of sand and mud. The " Pandora's " anchor was buried, and two small weights attached to the bight of the chain., Dingy fast to " Pandora." The keels of the " Pandora " and dingy were about 10 to 11 feet above the low line, and those of the " Gulnare " and " Brunswick " between 6 and 8 feet. The distance of the two former boats from the waterway of the river at dead low tide was about three-quarters a mile ; that of the two latter about half a mile. On his return, the junk man who had assisted to lay out the anchors of the two outside boats, informed me, through the in- terpreter, that all was now secure, and departed to obtain per- mission from his master to pilot us to the city on the following morning. It was a calm, still night, with a little rain hanging about, the moon being obscured. The murmur of the Bore in the distance was heard at llh. 29m. ; it could be seen at llh. 55m., and it passed us with a roar at 12h'. 20m. As the Chinese had predicted, it was well over on the opposite shore ; and after looking at the light of the " Brunswick ' and making my notes, I laid down for half an hour, feeling no concern as to the safety of any of the party. When the water pattered up to the bilge of my own boat, which was not till about one o'clock, I had the bag of coal, which had been placed -under the bilges instead of shores, removed from the off side to that where I expected the. rush, and made ready to haul in the other immediately the boat floated. Unfortunately the stream, which came when there was only a foot of water over the sand, took us on the wrong bow, and bound the boat up against the still immersed bag of coal, heeling her over to a current running at a speed of at least 8 knots an hour. After one or two struggles, during which she fell over once on the starboard bilge, but not long enough, or steadily enough, to allow of the bag being hauled on board, she floated, and the bag, though closed, as I imagined, sufficiently to prevent coal falling out, was hauled up empty. At 2.15 the sounding was 9 feet, 8 and the stream slack. Before 3 a.m. it was ranning briskly in the opposite direction.* The rudder post and propeller guard of the " Pandora " (no doubt wrenched in the morning) having been broken off, and being unable to steer, even with an oar, I was obliged now to beach for repairs. At daylight nothing could be seen of the " Gulnare " and "Brunswick." One native assured me that they were 6 or 7 miles higher up the river, but his statement was not corroborated. The bank on which they had beached was searched, and no signs were xound of anchors or cables, or any of the gear. This allayed my apprehension, for if one or both had foundered, at least an anchor and some remains of a boat or fittings would have been left on the sand. It was not, however, until I floated in the afternoon, and steamed up the south bank of the river, that I had the satisfaction of feeling certain all was well. I found the " Gulnare " and " Brunswick " aground about 3 miles from their original position. Lieutenant Purey-Cust's notes on the occurrence are as follow : — " 4.15, grounded in " Brunswick," close to " Gulnare," opposite " Haining Pagoda, about a mile from the south shore, on hard sand "and mud (there were several quicksands in the vicinity), the " ripples on the sand were distinctly marked by the flow of the " previous Bore, and the Chinaman who showed us in what direction " to lay our anchors out did so by reference to their direction. " Moonlight, but cloudy ; light air from the westward. About " 11.30 p.m. a low murmur was first heard to the eastward, which " very gradually increased to a roar as the Bore got close. At " 12.10 it could be seen approaching, apparently in the form of a " steep slope of white water overfalling and pouring over itself as it " advanced. Only one wave could be seen, and the river appeared " filled up immediately behind to its full height. At 12.15 the wave " passed us outside in the channel, and at 12.20 the overflow out- " wards over the flats — ^from the big wave — struck us at an angle of " 45° with the general direction of the river. We experienced no " actual wave, but only a violent rush of water in a succession of big " ripples, the boats shipped no water, only a little spray. In a few " moments the boat was afloat in a current of from 7 to 8 knots (the " direction of the current, both now and after was the same as the " first rush, viz., up river and towards the south bank). In the first " ten minutes the water rose 9 feet, after which the boat began to " drag, and no reliable observations could be taken. A few minutes * High water that night proved to be 3.15. " after a sort of reflex wave was seen coining up rapidly astern, " apparently the rebound from the bank, but simply an undulation, " and nothing dangerous, and there was no alteration in the current. " Twice after the passage of the Bore there were rushes of water, " and increased violence of the stream, accompanied by a few ripples " from the old direction ; but no signs of a second or third wave " outside ; the last rush was the most violent of all, and the stream " certainly could not have been less than 10 knots at the very least. " At 1.10 the stream slackened, and the boats, which had been drag " ging in company (although the " Gulnare " had been steaming full " speed all the time) for about 20 to 30 minutes, brought up in 6 feet " about 3 miles from where we started. In a few minutes it was " perfectly slack water. We proceeded in-shore, where a fairly " strong ebb (eddy ?) was running. The " Brunswick " was anchored " with 60-lb. anchor and 30-fathomB grapnel, backed up with a 30-lb. " anchor, two 2-cwt. bags of coal secured to the grapnel near the " anchor. On weighing, the coal, with the exception of about ^ cwt. " in one bag, was found to have all washed out ; and its place taken by " hard sand, tightly packed into the bags ; the pea of the anchor was " like polished silver from the friction in dragging." From Lieutenant Parry, I learn that the " Gulnare " had a bad time of it. She floated almost immediately the water touched her keel, and then made a bound over to port, bringing a severe strain on cable and fittings, and heeling over until the wash cloth was nearly in the water. She then commenced to drive to the westward, past the " Brunswick," which boat, however, followed in a few minutes, and kept pace with her. When hove up, the pea of the anchor and the greater part of the chain were as bright as polished silver.* It has been necessary to trouble you with these details in order to show the after effects of the Bore on three boats apparently in safety, and the nearest of which cannot have been less than half-a-mile from it, and 6^ to 7 feet above its foot. The reason of this sluice which follows the first crested onset of the flood, I shall be able to show under heading III. when discussing the records of tide and com- parisons of levels. The uneveness of the surface of the flood was an extraordinary feature in this night's observations. Lieutenant Gust obtained a sounding of 9 feet before the water reached my boat ; and yet he grounded in the afternoon before my cutter was dry. Allowing for * Those wio have had practical experience of the effect of a tumultuous current of great velocity will recognise the skill which brought these three small boats out of their dangerous situation with so little damage.^W. J. L. W. 16 a slight error in the sounding due to an 8-knot stream, and for both his time and mine to he only approximate after Bore had passed, yet it was certain that he dragged past me with plenty of water under him some minutes before the water reached me ; and consequently the river must have beeti out of level — so to speak — at least 3 or 4 feet for a quarter of an hour. The fissure between the banks may have had something to do with this. The Bore of 21st September midday passed the Pagoda at Haining at 12.47, and being enhanced by mirage, presented a fine spectacle. At 4 p.m. I joined Lieutenant Oust and secured in a safe position 3 miles west of the berth of the previous night and 1^ miles from the low line of the river abreast. The night Bore was heard at 12.20 ; it passed Haining at 12.52 and the boats at Ih. 5m. It was too far off to enable me to make any notes of its height and appearance. Lieutenant Gust had secured a pilot who agreed to take us to the city ; but the " Brunswick " did not float until 4 a.m., an hour later than was expected, and then only by removing all her stores. We found to our disappointment that Springs were passed. On cross examining the pilot, it turned out that the navigation to Hang-chau left no safe margin for delays ; and I had to remember that if the steam cutters took the ground after 5 o'clock, there was only one course — to remove as much gear as we could, and if a sufficient number of men could not be ob'tained to carry them, to abandon the boats * to the mercy of the mid-day Bore. Nearly all our coal was gone. Wood could only be purchased with difficulty. The many miles of sand flats between the river and the ship, and the knowledge now in my possession that the Bore originated about 12 or 14 miles outside, almost as near, in fact, to the " Rambler " as to the river, demanded the greatest caution in returning after Springs. Under these circumstances, I did not feel justified in going on to the city, or even remaining in the river with the boats (one of the cutters being seriously damaged), and reluctantly decided to return to the " Rambler." The pilot was therefore questioned and undertook to navigate the boats to Ohapu bay. One instance will show the difficulty of navigation in this river, even for small boats. As you are aware our steam cutters can count upon a speed of 5 knots an hour. I wanted to go over to Haining at 4 o'clock to arrange for landing Mr. Parry and for the conveyance of * I have since found out there are several junk platforms along the sea wall ; but the pilot at the time declared that there were none. 11 the officers to Hang-chau, but was unable to do so for this reason. The distance ivas 3 miles. Time, high water. It would take half- an-hour to go over, perhaps less ; say we stopped half-an-hour ; the return would have occupied at least 2 hours, as the out-going stream would be running 5 or 6 knots in the channel. This would bring us back by 8 o'clock, and at that time it was not possible anywhere, upor down, or on either bank of the river, to secure a steam cutter clear of the Bore. During the forenoon of the 22nd a base of 7789 feet was measured on the South bank, and the speed of the mid-day Bore observed. It proved to be 12"7 knots an hour. The height was also ascertained and the range of ordinary springs measured and found to be 19^ feet. Lieutenant Oust, Mr. Dawson and Doctor Bassett-Smith procured a junk to cross the river to Haining after the Bore passed ; and from Haining they proceeded in the rear of the night Bore to Hang-chau, eventually joining the " Rambler " at Shanghai. At high water I started, with Mr. Parry, on our return journey. The best channel is along the north shore of the estuary, and the distance 29 miles. After 4 p.m. a strong ebb stream set out ; but the pilot would not take the boats on after dark, but secured them in a bay under Chi-san cape, 12 miles east of Haining, giving out that he would not move in the morning if there was any wind. In this bay which I have named " Bore Shelter bay," and which is protected to the south by a long rocky point with a small pagoda or beacon at the end of it, the Bore is not felt ; but during the first watch we could hear continual overfalls outside of us, and the water where we were grounding our boats rose and fell incessantly for 2 hours as much as 3 feet in the most singiilar manner, without any surface disturbance, showing the struggle in progress between the outgoing stream and the first of the flood. At 4 a.m. on the 23rd, it was calm, and we resumed our journey, reaching the " Rambler " at 6 o'clock. Lieutenant Balfour reported to me that there had been a very severe strain on the cables with the first of the ebb ; that it had been found necessary to shift one shackle, a link being bent ; and that the day Bore of the 21st had commenced to form to seaward of the anchorage and had passed the ship in the form of an overfall of sufficient height to throw water into the mizen chains. It was evident that the stay of the ship should be shortened as much . as possible. On the next morning — Monday — the tide party was removed from Rambler island and the vessel was unmoored ; not 12 towever, before another shackle had been rendered useless. A north- east wind, of moderate strength, set in with the first of the flood, and a severe tide rippling surrounded the ship throwing water on to the poop. I endeavoured to weigh and get to sea ; but in an unlucky moment a swift rush came round an island on the bow, suddenly- bringing a strain on the cable at short stay. The pauls of the capstan and all the capstan bars, except two, carried away, and two men were injured, not, I am glad to say— as it turned out— very seriously. We then commenced to drag; and had to veer and prepare to slip. Steam being ready at a high pressure, I held on as long as possible, and was enabled at last, when the stream slackened, to raise the anchor. This overfall lasted two hours, the water rising on Rambler island in a manner visible to the eye from the deck of the ship, and attain- ing a greater height 2 hours before high water th"an its maximum of previous days. At 4 p.m. we passed Chapu, reached West Volcano island at 8.30 p.m., removed the tide party, and proceeded to Shanghai on the following day. Our excursion to the Tsien-tang dispelled two illusions under which 1 had been labouring. Of course one does not visit an estuary of the shape of the Hang-chau gulf without anticipating very strong tides, and preparing for them ; but it was entirely contrary to our previous experience to find these 8 to 11 knot streams running over sand, only just covered with water. I imagined that they were con- fined to the channels. Moreover, I was under the impression that Bores in general, and that of the Tsien-tang in particular, originated at the mouth, or inside the mouth, of the rivers which they traverse, and not 12 to 15 miles outside of it. Steam cutters, drawing as they do, 3 feet, and offering so much resistance to the water, prove to be unsuitable boats for the navigation of this river. The 10-knot rush comes when there is from one to 2 feet water over the sand flats, and then there is a violent struggle to get afloat, unless the level of the crest of the Bore happens to be above the level required to float the boat, in which case they are lifted at once. The junks found in the river or the estuary draw 1^ to 2 feet, and their bottoms are quite flat. They drive a pole through a hole in the fore part of the boat, and hammer it down into the sand, keeping their anchors ready to hold them directly they are water borne. The shape of the sloping prow and their build 13 altogether causes them to rise lightly over a great surface rush of water. Our opportunities of seeing the Bore had been so" far good ; but some questions respecting the phenomenon still remained un- answered ; and it was necessary to ascertain the geographical positions of Hang-chau and of the mouth of the river. I therefore engaged 9, house boat, and at daybreak on 30th September, started up