fyxmll W^mvmxi^ ptatg BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henrg W. Sage 1891 ../\.v.v&.a'n-5.q. l.'b QA Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028080566 DA 869.(515"" ""'"'""' """''' Influence of the pre-reformatlon church 3 1924 028 080 566 ECCLESIASTICAL PLACE-NAMES OF SCOTLAND INFLUENCE OF THE PRE-REFORMATION CHURCH ON SCOTTISH PLACE-NAMES BY JAMES MURRAY MACKINLAY, M.A. F.S.A. (LOND. & Scot.) AUTHOR OF 'folk-lore OF SCOTTISH LOCHS AND SPRINGS* WILLIAM BLACKWOQD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MCMIV T All Rights reserved PREFATORY NOTE. In the following pages an attempt has been made to trace the influence of the pre -Reformation Church on Scottish place-names. This has been done in the light not only of philology but also of history and topography, and to some extent of ecclesiology and folk-lore. It is hoped that the examples given to illustrate the influence in question will be sufficient to show how far-reaching it was. J. M. M. The Lee, Merchiston, Edinburgh, February 1904. BIBLIOGRAPHY. Among the Works referred to in the present volume are the follow- ing, with the abbreviations commonly employed : — A New English Dictionary on Historical Principles. Edited by James A. H. Murray. Oxford, 1888. Abstracts of Protocols of the Town-Clerks of Glasgow. Edited by Robert Renwick. Glasgow, 1894-1900. (Quoted as 'Glas- gow Protocols.') Adamnan. Life of Saint Columba. Edited by William Reeves, D.D. Edinburgh, 1874. Allan, Rev. Archibald. History of Channelkirk. Edinburgh, 1900. Ancient Laws of Ireland. Dublin, 1865-79. Anderson, Joseph. Scotland in Early Christian Times. First and Second Series. Edinburgh, 1881. Anecdota Oxoniensia. Lives of Saints from the Book of Lismore. Edited by Whitley Stokes, D.C.L. Oxford, 1890. (Quoted as ' Book of Lismore.') Archaeologia. Published by the Society of Antiquaries of London. London. Archaeologia Cambrensis. London. Archaeologia Scotica. Edinburgh. Archaeological and Historical Collections relating to the County of Renfrew: Parish of Lochwinnoch. Paisley, 1885 and 1890, (Quoted as ' Parish of Lochwinnoch.') Arnot, Hugo. The History of Edinburgh. Edinburgh, 1788. Baring-Gould, Rev. S., M.A. The Lives of the Saints. London, 1874-82. Bede's Ecclesiastical History. London, 1840. Bellenden, J. History and Chronicles of Scotland. Edinburgh, 1821. Beveridge, David. Culross and Tulliallan. Edinburgh, 1885. Beveridge, Erskine. Coll and Tiree : Their Prehistoric Forts and Ecclesiastical Antiquities. Edinburgh, 1903. via BIBLIOGRAPHY. Black, David D. The History of Brechin. Brechin, 1839. Blackie, C. A Dictionary of Place-Names. London, 1887. Blaeu's Atlas. Amsterdam, 1654. Borlase, William Copeland, M.A. The Age of the Saints in Corn- wall. Truro, 1893. Brand, John. A brief description of Orkney, Zetland, Pightland, and Caithness. Edinburgh, 1701. Breviarium Aberdonense. London, 1854. Brown, J. T. T. Cambuslang : The Place and its People. Glasgow, 1884. Bruce, John. History of the Parish of West or Old Kilpatrick. Glasgow, 1893. Butler, Rev. Alban. The Lives of the Fathers, Martyrs, and other principal Saints. Edited by the Rev. F. C. Husenbeth, D.D. London. (Quoted as ' Lives of the Saints.') Butler, Rev. D., M.A. The Ancient Church and Parish of Aber- nethy. Edinburgh, 1897. Calder, James F. Sketch of the Civil and Traditional History of Caithness. Edinburgh, 186 1. Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland. Edited by Joseph Bain. Edinburgh, 1881-88. Calendar of Entries in the Papal Registers relating to Great Britain and Ireland. London, 1893-1902. Camden, William. Britannia. Translated from the Edition pub- hshed by the Author in 1607. Enlarged by Richard Gough. London, 1806. Campbell, Duncan. The Book of Garth and Fortingall. Inverness, 1888. Campbell, Hugh F., M.A. The Cathedral of Caithness at Dornoch. Aberdeen, 1892. Campbell, James. Balmerino and its Abbey. Edinburgh, 1867. Campbell, John Gregorson — Superstitions of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Glasgow, 1900. Witchcraft and Second Sight in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Glasgow, 1902. Cardonel, Adam de. Picturesque Antiquities of Scotland. London, 1788. Cartularium Ecclesise Sancti Nicholai Aberdonensis. Recognovit Jacobus Cooper, S.T.D. In Ecclesia Supradicta Presbyter. Aberdeen, 1892. Chalmers, George. Caledonia. London, 1807-24. (Quoted as ' Caledonia ' (Cal.) ) Chalmers, Rev. Peter. Historical and Statistical Account of Dun- fermline. Edinburgh, 1844. BIBLIOGRAPHY. IX Chambers, Robert — Domestic Annals of Scotland from the Reformation to the Revolution. Edinburgh, 1874. The Book of Days. Edinburgh, 1863, 1864. The Popular Rhymes of Scotland. Edinburgh, 1826. Traditions of Edinburgh. Edinburgh, 1868. Charters and Documents relating to the Burgh of Paisley. Edited by W. M. Metcalfe, D.D. Paisley, 1902. Charters and other Documents relating to the City of Glasgow. Edited by Sir James D. Marwick, LL.D. Glasgow, 1897. Charters of Abbey of Crossraguel. Edinburgh, 1886. Charters of the Friars Preachers of Ayr. Edinburgh, 1881. Charters of the Hospital of Soltre, of Trinity College, Edinburgh, and other Collegiate Churches in Mid-Lothian. Edinburgh, i86r. (Quoted as ' Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian.') Charters of the Royal Burgh of Ayr. Edinburgh, 1883. Chartularies of Torphichen and Drem. Edinburgh, 1830. Chartulary of the Abbey of Lindores. Edited by the Right Rev. John Dowden, D.D., Bishop of Edinburgh. Edinburgh, 1903. Christie, John. The Lairds and I.,ands of Loch Tayside. Aber- feldy, 1892. Christison, David, M.D. Early Fortifications in Scotland. Edin- burgh, 1898. Chronica de Mailros. 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Inverurie and the Earldom of the Garioch. Edinburgh, 1878. Dempsteri, Thomse. Historia Ecclesiastica Gentis Scotorum. Edin- burgh, 1829. Don, William Gerard, M.D. Archaeological Notes on Early Scot- land. Brechin, 1896. Dowden, John, D.D. The Celtic Church in Scotland. London, 1894. Drummond, James. Sculptured Monuments in lona and the West Highlands. Edinburgh, 1881. Dugdale, Sir William. Monasticon Anglicanum. London, 1846. Edmunds, Flavell. Traces of History in the Names of Places. London, 1872. Eyre-Todd, George. By-ways of the Scottish Border. Selkirk, 1893- Extracts from the Records of the Royal Burgh of Lanark. Glasgow, 1893. Extracts from the Records of the Royal Burgh of Stirling. Glasgow, 1887. Fittis, Robert Scott. Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth. Perth, 1885. Fleming, D. Hay. Guide to St Andrews. St Andrews, 1893. Fleming, J. S.— Ancient Castles and Mansions of Stirling Nobility. Paisley, 1902. Old Nooks of Stirling. Stirling, 1897. The Old Ludgings of Stirling. Stirling, 1897. Forbes, Alexander Penrose, D.C.L. Kalendars of Scottish Saints. Edinburgh, 1872. (Quoted as ' Kal.') Fordun, Joannis de. Scotichronicon cum supplementis et con- tinuatione Walteri Boweri. Goodall's Edition. Edinburgh, 1759- , Fraser, William — History of the Carnegies, Earls of Southesk. Edinbureh, 1867. The Scotts of Buccleuch. Edinburgh, 1878. Fryer, Alfred C, Ph.D. Llantwit Major. London, 1893. Geddes, William Duguid, LL.D. The Heraldic Ceiling of the Cathedral Church of St Machar, Old Aberdeen Aberdeen 1888. Gordon, J. F. S., D.D.— Glasghu Fades. Glasgow, 1872. Vade-Mecum to the Cathedral of Glasgow. Glasgow, 1894. Grose, Francis. The Antiquities of Scotland. London, 1797. BIBLIOGRAPHY. XI Hamilton, William, of Wishaw. Description of the Sheriffdom of Lanark and Renfrew. Glasgow, 1831. Harper, M. M. Rambles in Galloway. Dalbeattie, 1896. Henderson, Ebenezer, LL.D. The Annals of Dunfermline. Glasgow, 1879. Heron, Robert. 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History of the Reformation in Scotland. Edinburgh, 1846-64. Lewis, Samuel — A Topographical Dictionary of England. London, 1833. A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland. London, 1847. Liber Cartarum Sancte Crucis. Edinburgh, 1840. Liber Ecclesie de Scon. Edinburgh, 1843. Liber Insule Missarum. Edinburgh, 1847. Liber S. Marie de Calchou. Edinburgh, 1846. (Quoted as 'Liber de Calchou.') Liber S. Marie de Dryburgh. Edinburgh, 1847. Liber Sti. Thome de Aberbrothoc. Edinburgh, 1848-56. Liddall, W. J. N., M.A. The Place-Names of Fife and Kinross. Edinburgh, 1896. Lives of S. Ninian and S. Kentigern. Compiled in the Twelfth Century. Edited by Alexander Penrose Forbes, D.C.L. Edin- burgh, 1874. Low, George. A Tour through the Islands of Orkney and Schetland. Kirkwall, 1879. Low, James G. Memorials of the Church of St John the Evangelist, Montrose. Montrose, 1891. Lubbock, Sir John, Bart. Origin of Civilisation. London, 1870. Lyndsay, Sir David. Poetical Works. Edited by George Chalmers. 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Ancient Lives of Scottish Saints. Paisley, 1895. Metrical Life of St Cuthbert in English Verse. Durham, 1891. Miller, David. Arbroath and its Abbey. Edinburgh, i860. Miller, Hugh- Edinburgh and its Neighbourhood. Edinburgh, 1883. My Schools and Schoolmasters. Edinburgh, 1889. Scenes and Legends of the North of Scotland. Edinburgh, 1889. Milne, Robert, D.D. The Blackfriars of Perth. Edinburgh, 1893. Monro, Donald. High Dean of the Isles : A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland. Glasgow. Montalembert, C. de. Monks of the West. 1861-79. Moore, A. W., M.A. The Surnames and Place-Names of the Isle of Man. London, 1890. Moran, Bishop. Irish Saints in Great Britain. Dublin, 1879. Morris, Thomas. The Provostry of Methven. Edinburgh, 1875. Morton, James, B.D. The Monastic Annals of Teviotdale. Edin- burgh, 1832. Muir, T. S. Ecclesiological Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland. Edinburgh, 1885. XIV BIBLIOGRAPHY. Muniments of the Royal Burgh of Irvine. Edinburgh, 1890. 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Edinburgh, 1882-07. (Quoted as ' R. M. S.') BIBLIOGRAPHY. XV Registrum Monasterii de Passelet. Edinburgh, 1832. Registrum Monasterii S. Marie de Cambuskenneth. Edinburgh, 1872. Registrum Prioratus S. Andree. Edinburgh, 1841. Rental Book of the Cistercian Abbey of Cupar-Angus. Edited by the Rev. Charles Rogers, LL.D. London, 1879, 1880. (Quoted as ' Register of Cupar Abbey.') Robertson, Col. James A. The Gaelic Topography of Scotland. Edinburgh, 1869. Robertson, Joseph, LL.D. Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals. Aberdeen, 1893. Rogers, Rev. Charles, LL.D. Social Life in Scotland. Edinburgh, 1884-86. Rotuli Scaccarii Regum Scotorum. Edinburgh, 1878-1901. (Quoted as 'Exchequer Rolls of Scotland.') Sage, Rev. Donald, A.M. Memorabilia Domestica. Wick, 1889. Scots Lore. Glasgow, 1895. Scott, Hew, M.A. Fasti Ecclesiee Scoticanae. Edinburgh, 1866. Sculptured Stones of Scotland. Edited by John Stuart, LL.D. Aberdeen, 1856; and Edinburgh, 1867. Shaw, Rev. Lachlan. 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The Buik of the Cronicles of Scotland : or, A Metrical Version of the History of Hector Boece. Edited by William B. TurnbuU. London, 1858. XVI BIBLIOGRAPHY. Story, Rev. Robert Herbert, D.D. — St Modan of Rosneath. Paisley, 1878. The Apostolic Ministry in the Scottish Church. Edinburgh, 1897. . . Stotherd, James A. Lectures on Parochial and Collegiate Antiqui- ties of Edinburgh. Edinburgh, 1845-47. Stuart, Robert. Views and Notices of Glasgow in Former Times. Glasgow, 1847. Syllabus of Rymer's Foedera. Edited by Sir Thomas DufTus Hardy. London, 1869-85. Symson, Rev. Andrew. A Large Description of Galloway. Edin- burgh, 1823. Taylor, Isaac, M.A. — Names and their Histories. London, 1896. Words and Places. London, 1878. Taylor, Rev. J. W. Historical Antiquities of Fife, chiefly Ecclesi- astical. Edinburgh, 1875. Templaria. Edinburgh, 1828. Temple, Rev. William. The Thanage of Fermartyn. Aberdeen, 1894. Todd, James Henthorn, D.D. St Patrick, Apostle of Ireland. Dublin, 1864. 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Edinburgh, 1877- 1902. BIBLIOGRAPHY. XVll Transactions of Edinburgh Architectural Association. Edinburgh. Transactions of the Archaeological Society of Glasgow. New Series. Glasgow. Transactions of the Cumberland and Westmoreland Antiquarian Archaeological Society. Kendal. Ure, David. History of Rutherglen and East Kilbride. Glasgow, 1793- Veitch, John, LL.D. The History and Poetry of the Scottish Border. Glasgow, 1878. Walcott, Mackenzie E. C, B.D. — Sacred Archaeology. London, 1838. Scoti-Monasticon. The Ancient Church of Scotland. Edin- burgh, 1874. (Quoted as ' Scoti-Monasticon.') Walker, J. Russell. Pre-Reformation Churches in Fife and the Lothians. Edinburgh, 1888. Warren, F. E. The Liturgy and Ritual of the Celtic Church. Oxford, 1 88 1. Warrick, Rev. John, M.A. The History of Old Cumnock. Paisley, 1899. White, Captain T. P. — Archaeological Sketches in Scotland (District of Kintyre). Edinburgh, 1873. Archaeological Sketches in Scotland (Knapdale and Gigha). Edinburgh, 1875. Wilson, Daniel, LL.D. — Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time. Edinburgh, 1848. Prehistoric Annals of Scotland. London, 1863. Reminiscences of Old Edinburgh. Edinburgh, 1878. Wyntoun, Andrew of. The Orygynale Cronykil of Scotland. Edin- burgh, 1872-79. Zimmer, Heinrich. The Celtic Church in Britain and Ireland. London, 1902. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY II. THE SAINTS . III. RETREATS IV. CHURCH-FOUNDING V. KILS . VI. KILS AND SAINTS VII. KILS AND SAINTS — continued VIII. KILS AND SAINTS — Continued IX. KIRKS X. KIRKS AND SAINTS . XI. KIRKS AND SAINTS — Continued XII. CHAPELS xin. CROSSES XIV. CROSSES — continued. XV. THE VIRGIN . XVI. THE DIOCESE XVII. THE DIOCESE — continued XVIII. THE MONASTERY XIX, THE MONASTERY — continued XX. THE MONASTERY — contimted XXL THE PARISH XXII. LANDSCAPE FEATU RES 15 36 59 74 83 96 108 121 132 142 154 164 181 193 212 226 234 250 263 273 288 XX CONTENTS xxiii. LANDSCAPE FEATURES — continued XXIV. LANDSCAPE FEATURES — Continued XXV. ACRES AND CROFTS XXVI. ANNAT XXVII. THE TEMPLARS XXVIU. HOSPITALS . XXIX. DWELLINGS . XXX. STONE SITES . APPENDIX INDEX 301 328 344 3SI 364 386 400 417 423 CHAPTER I. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. Influence of Christianity — Celtic and Roman types — Council of Whitby — Introduction of medievalism — Temple and Spittal — Activity of Irish Church — Early saints in Scottish topography — Holy -wells — Trinity- Gas i — Fairs — Church dedications — Farms and saints — Burying- grounds — Ecclesiastical terms borroived from Latin — Skryne — Peynahachalla — Deixiar' s Croft — Inchaffray — Hell's Glen — St Angus at Balquhidder — Personal influence — Papa and Papil. Topography has an important bearing on the history of the Church. If the place-names due to the influence of Christianity were erased from the map of Scotland, not a few of our most familiar landmarks would disappear. Fife would have no St Andrews and Galloway no Whithorn, Ayrshire would lose Prestwick and Monkton, Stirlingshire St Ninians, the Hebrides Barra, and the Orkneys Kirkwall. We should have to look in vain for our Kilchattans and Kildonans, our Kirkpatricks and Kirkmichaels. Berwick- shire would cease to have Abbey St Bathans and Eccles, Perthshire St Fillans, Mid - Lothian the parishes of St Cuthbert's and St Giles's, and Aberdeenshire those of St Fergus and Old and New Machar. In the following pages an attempt is made to indicate the influence of the Church on topography during the periods of Celtic and Roman Christianity.^ These two periods shade into each other ; but the types of Christianity manifested by each are tolerably distinct. The Celtic type was simpler and more elastic than the Roman type. The ' Appendix, A. A 2 TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. latter came with demands for greater uniformity and with a growing externalism. At the Council held at Whitby in the year 664 the two types came into conflict. The questions at issue — viz., those of the tonsure and the date of Easter — were not important. What lay behind was important— viz., the question of conformity to Rome on the part of the Celtic Church, which till then had enjoyed autonomy in government and ritual. At the Council the Roman type prevailed, and a blow was thus struck at the independence of the Celtic Church. Another step in the Romeward direction was taken when, early in the eighth century, the cultus of St Peter was officially recognised in Scotland. But the complete triumph of the Roman type was reserved for the period extending from 1069 — when Margaret was married to Malcolm Canmore — to 1214, when her great-grandson, William the Lion, died. During that period the Celtic Church, which was distinctively monastic in character, was practically superseded by the Roman Church, with its organised parochial system, its territorial dioceses, and its monasteries framed after English and Continental models. These monasteries in many instances first incorporated and then took the place of earlier Celtic foundations. The Templars, and the Hospitallers or Knights of St John of Jerusalem, had much to do with mediaeval life in Scotland as in other European countries. They claim consideration in the present volume in virtue of their influence on our place-names. To such influence are due various examples of Temple and Spittal respectively. In certain cases, however, as we shall see, Temple has no connection with the Templars, but, as Gaehc teampull, denotes simply a church — e.g., Gleann-an-Teampull in lona — i.e., the Glen of the Church ; and Teampull Rona at Eoroby in Lewis and on the island of North Rona — i.e., the Church of St Ronan. In like manner Spittal often points not to the Hospitallers but to the hospitals founded in pre- Reformation days for such charitable purposes as the reception of the sick or the accommodation of wayfarers. For the introduction of Christianity into Scotland we TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. 3 have to look mainly to Ireland, which, after it had itself received the new faith, was zealous in passing it on to other lands. This activity of the Irish Church was an important factor in the extension of Christianity in Western lands. Bishop Forbes remarks : " The Irish missionaries, spread over Europe from Iceland to Tarentum, carrying with them their own learning and to some degree their own rites, — sometimes well received, more often the objects of national jealousy to the people among whom they sojourned, — formed an important element in the civilisation of the West."^ Many of these missionaries from Ireland have their names attached to Scottish localities, the scenes either of their own or of their disciples' activities. Undoubtedly the best known of them all was Columba, whose name survives in various forms, from Kirkcolm in Wigtownshire to St Combs in Buchan, and from Inchcolm in the Firth of Forth to Kilchalmkil in North Uist. There is much to attract us about Columba as we follow him through his biography written by Adamnan, and it is not surprising that his cultus was so popular in Scotland for many centuries. Even in far-off St Kilda there was a chapel called after him, and his Day in the Calendar was not forgotten by the islanders. The monastery of Hi or lona, Columba's chief settlement in Scotland, was founded in the year 563. From it as a centre he and his disciples went forth to preach a new and better faith to the nature- worshipping inhabitants of our land. " At the time of Columba's death in 597," remarks Professor Zimmer, "part of North Britain, including the mainland to the north of a line from Glasgow to Edinburgh as well as the Western Isles, was studded with a number of monasteries whose inmates concerned themselves with the spiritual welfare of the neighbouring population, and which were every one dependent on the parent-monastery in Hi." ^ Columba's successors carried on his work and enlarged the sphere of Christian civilisation. The way was thus cleared for the extension of the mediaeval Church with its numerous places of worship. It has been calculated that ^ Kal., Pref., p. xiii. '^ The Celtic Church in Britain and Ireland, p. 75. 4 TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. when David de Bernham was bishop of St Andrews— viz., from 1239 to 1253 — there were 234 churches within his diocese, and that about the same time there were not less than 1000 ecclesiastical buildings throughout Scotland.^ In the following pages notice is taken of several less known missionaries, whether Columban or not, who, though they did not receive canonisation at Rome, were long held in affectionate remembrance, and were regarded as saints by the men of later times. When speaking of our early missionaries, Canon Isaac Taylor remarks : " From the village names of Wales, Scotland, and Ireland it would be almost possible to compile a hagiology of these sainted men." 2 Their names still cling to many a feature of our landscape. We find them on some wind-swept Hebridean island, or in some sheltered glen far inland through which flows a stream telling of a long-departed saint. We find them on some headland, or hill, or at some spring whose water satisiied their thirst and supplied baptism to their converts. Holy wells form an important department of antiquarian research ; but one has to guard against the inference that, because a saint's name is attached to a spring, the saint himself had necessarily some connection with it during his lifetime. In certain cases he doubtless had such con- nection. On the other hand, the well may have borrowed its name from the dedication of some neighbouring chapel. Tobar-Ashig in Strath parish, Skye, means the Well of St Asaph, disciple of St Kentigern, whom the latter ap- pointed his successor as the head of his monastery on the banks of the Ebwy in North Wales, where the cathedral city of St Asaph now stands. It is not likely that Asaph was ever in Skye ; and to find the origin of the name of Tobar-Ashig we have to look to a chapel to the saint which stood at Ashig.* The spring that gives name to St John's Well farm, near Stirling, is believed to have been so called from an adjoining chapel dedicated to St John ; and the same may be said of St John's Well farm in Fyvie parish, ' Rev. Dr Lockhart's Church ot" Scotland in the Thirteenth Century, p. 142. 2 Words and Places, p. 228. » N. S. A., Inverness, p. 305. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. 5 Aberdeenshire. The old church of Cushnie in the same shire was under the patronage of St Bridget of Kildare. Near it is St Bride's Well, giving name to St Bride's farm. In Trinity-Gask parish, Perthshire, is a spring known as Trinity Well. In pre - Reformation days it was of great renown for the performing of " miraculous cures, fortifying against plague, witchcraft, and such other evils." ^ One may legitimately infer that the spring and the parish are both indebted for their names to the dedication of the church to the Holy Trinity. The Cathedral church of Brechin was the successor of a Culdee foundation, and, like it, was dedicated to the Trinity. This fact gave importance to the fair held annually at Trinity-tide on the piece of ground about a mile from the burgh known as Trinity-Muir, near the village of Trinity. The kirk-session records of Brechin contain the following entry: "21st May 1662, no session holden this day by reason the magistrates went immediately after sermon to bring in the Trinity fair." Other three fairs or markets were held at the same place every year. Regarding them and the Trinity-tide fair, Mr David D. Black, writing in 1839, says : " Every one who has witnessed the fairs held on Trinity-Muir has noticed the array of halberts with which the council are guarded to the markets, and by means of which, when necessary, the decisions of the magistrates, given in the markets, are enforced."^ George Junction, on the Highland Railway, about eight miles from Thurso, indicates the stance of the Georgemas Fair, held in connection with St George's Day (23rd April). An ancient highway in Aberdeenshire leading across the hill of Culsalmond near its summit is locally known as the Laurence Road, because it was traversed by people on their way to attend Laurence Fair, held beside the market cross of Old Rayne.^ Laurence Moor, locally known as Laurin Moor, about a mile and a half from Laurencekirk in Kincardineshire, points to Laurence Fair — an old established cattle-market held there in August till within recent times. Occasionally the name of a saint is attached to a place 1 N. S. A., Perth, p. 335. ^ History of Brechin, pp. 65, 89. 3 N. S. A., Aberdeen, p. 731. 6 TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY, to mark his connection with its church. Thus Perth was formerly known as St Johnstoun, its church having been dedicated to the Baptist; and Keith, in Banffshire, as Kethmalruf, from St Maelrubha of Applecross, who died in 722, and whose name, in a curiously altered form, survived in Summereve Fair, held at Keith till our own times. The ancient parish of Culter, lying on both sides of the Dee, was divided in the thirteenth century into the parishes of Peterculter and Maryculter, recalling St Peter and the Virgin respectively. The former parish has still a spring near the church styled Peter's Well, and a high bank in the same neighbourhood, locally known as Peter's Heugh. Maryculter was a barony belonging to the Knights Templars, and its place of worship was dedicated to St Mary, the patron of their Order.^ Glen Urquhart, forming with Glenmoriston a parish in Inverness -shire, is known as Urchudainn mo Chrostain — i.e., St Drostan's Urquhart, to distinguish it from the other Urquharts in the North, — the mo being the honorific prefix so often found linked to the names of Celtic saints. According to the ' Breviary of Aberdeen,' Drostan was the nephew of St Columba, and was instructed from boy- hood in the Christian faith. He retired to Glenesk, in Angus, where he led an ascetic life. In Lochlee parish there, we iind such names as Droustie applied to the site of the manse, in the neighbourhood of which is Droustie's Well, the "kirk of Droustie" on the loch side, and Droustie's Meadow close to the Tarf. Part of Aberlour parish, Banffshire, is known as Skirdrostan — i.e., St Drostan's parish, from Gaelic sgire, a parish. The saint was buried at Aberdour, in Aberdeenshire. Regarding Aberdour church Dr John Stuart observes : " It was placed by the brink of a gorge on a ledge or table-land overlooking the burn of the Dour, at a spot about 150 yards distant from the shores of the Moray Firth. In the beginning of the sixteenth century the bones of the saint were here preserved in a stone chest, and many cures were effected by means of them." Dr Stuart adds : ' Vide "The Temple Barony of Maryculter," by Mr John Edwards in 'Trans, of Glasg-. Arch. Society,' vol. iv., Part II., pp. 195.206. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. ^ " In the face of the rock, near where the stream falls into the sea, is a clear and powerful spring of water known as St Drostan's Well."i Mr William Mackay takes exception to the account of St Drostan, given in the ' Breviary of Aberdeen,' as in- dicated above, on the ground that "he does not appear in the Irish genealogies of Columba's family; and he is not mentioned by St Adamnan, who wrote soon after the great missionary's death, and was careful to record the names of his fellow-labourers." Mr Mackay further remarks : " His name is not Gaelic, as it would have been if he were of Columba's race, but Pictish or Welsh, — it is the same as Tristan of the Arthurian tales, — and the strong probability is that he was a native of Southern Pictland who penetrated into the North long before Columba's time."^ The question is difficult; but due weight should be given to the story of the connection of Columba and Drostan with the district of Deer in Buchan, alluded to in another chapter. The mediseval Church has left its impress on the topography of Edinburgh in such names as Canongate, Abbeyhill, and St John's Hill, all associated with the monastery of Holyrood ; St Leonard's Hill, so named from St Leonard's Hospital ; the Sciennes, recalling the Nunnery of St Catherine of Sienna ; and the Pleasance, indicating the site of the long-vanished Nunnery of St Mary of Placentia. Regarding this last, Hugo Arnot, writing in 1788, remarks : " Nigher to the city [than St Leonard's Hill], about sixty yards from the south-east angle of the town wall, on the west side of the street, there was a priory of nuns dedicated to St Mary of Placentia. This street still bears corruptly the name of Pleasants."* Dundee has also a Pleasance, pointing, it is beHeved, to a similar dedication. On the outskirts of the burgh is Magdalene Green, recalling a chapel to St Mary Magdalene. We find kil, a church, not only in the names of parishes, ' The Book of Deer, Pref., pp. iv, v. 2 Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 326. 3 The History of Edinburgh, p. 252. 8 TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. but also in those of farms where ecclesiastical buildings (commonly of a small size) were built in ancient times to commemorate some saint. Examples are to be met with on the mainland, but are specially numerous among the Hebrides, where there are, e.g., in the island of Coll, the farms of Kilbride and Kilfinnaig, commemorating St Bridget and St Finan respectively; and in Tiree those of Kilbride, Kilfinnan, Kilmoluag, and Kilchenich, the last two recalling St Moluag and St Kenneth. Regarding the chapel and burying-ground at Kilbride farm in Coll just alluded to, Mr Erskine Beveridge remarks: "This burying- ground is about a quarter of a mile south of the present Kilbride farmhouse, but close to the west of the site of a former one. It is flat and rather spacious, of somewhat circular shape, and has been several times under tillage ; remains of its enclosing wall still show, but there are practically no traces of the chapel." ^ Many an ancient Highland burying-ground retains the name of some saint popular in the district. In Glen Lyon, in the Perthshire Highlands, are Cladh-Ghunnaidh and Cladh-Bhrainnu, signifying the burying-ground of St Guinoche and St Brendan respectively. The former was an adviser of King Kenneth MacAlpine in the ninth century, and the latter, famous for his many voyages, flourished three centuries earlier. Beside Cladh-Bhrainnu once stood a chapel which, local tradition says, was built in the twelfth century by a Macdougall of Lorn, and dedicated to St Brendan, the patron-saint of his native district.^ Another ancient Glen Lyon site is Cladh Chiarain — i.e., the burying-ground of St Ciaran. Regarding it Mr Duncan Campbell remarks : " Eastward of Duneaves House on the river's brink is a small cornfield to which the name of Ciaran's churchyard — Cladh-Chiarain — pertinaciously adheres, although chapel and churchyard disappeared a long time ago."* On the north side of Kirkapoll Bay in Tiree is Claodh- Odhrain, a burying-ground commemorating St Oran, one of St Columba's monks, who is said to have been the first ' Stewart's Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland, p. 76. ^ Coll and Tiree, pp. 52, 53 " The Book of Garth and Forting-all, p. 67. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. 9 to be buried in lona, where he was interred , in Rehg- Oran, signifying St Oran's graveyard. Dean Monro says : "Within this ile of Colmkill there is ane sanctuary also, or kirkzaird, callit in Erische Religoran, quhilk is a very fair kirkzaird, and weill biggit about with staine and lyme." ^ Relig in Gaelic is a loan word, having been borrowed from Latin reliquicB. Cladh means primarily a bank or mound, and secondarily a grave or burying-ground. In the latter sense it is common among the Highlanders of Scotland, but it is not much used in Ireland.^ Claodh, sometimes with dh omitted, is a variant of cladh. At Kingussie in Strathspey we find Cladh Challum - Chille, alternatively written Clao Colum Cille — i.e., the burying-ground of St Columba. According to the late Mr Alexander Macpherson it was the hallowed site of " the old church of Kingussie — a place of worship of remote antiquity, one of the most ancient north of the Grampians, planted, it is believed, by St Columba himself, to whom the church was dedicated." St Columba's Fair, known in Gaelic as Feill Challum Chille, used to be held in June at Cladh-Challum-Chille, and was resorted to from far and near. It was held partly inside and partly outside the graveyard. On one occasion the plague is said to have broken out among the frequenters of the fair, and a local tradition asserts that those within the burying-ground escaped contagion, while those without were attacked by the disease.' An enclosed piece of ground is known in Scotland as a "close." There was St Michael's Close near Dundrennan Abbey ; and in Carmichael parish we find St Bride's Close near Chapelhill. At the latter anciently stood a chapel dedicated, one may safely conclude, to St Bridget.* The dedication to St Bartholomew of Cousland Chapel in Cranston parish may reasonably be inferred from the fact that some land in its neighbourhood is known as Barthol- omew's Firlot.^ Firlot is defined by Jamieson as (i) a corn measure in Scotland, the fourth part of a boll, and (2) the quantity of grain, flour, &c., contained in a measure of this 1 Western Isles, p. 32. ^ Adamnan, p. 329. " Church and Social Life in the Highlands, pp. 126, 12. * O. P. S., vol. i. p. 151. ° Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 818. lo TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. description.^ In the case of Bartholomew's Firlot, the word points to the extent of ground required to yield the amount of grain indicated. There were certain things unknown to Paganism, and consequently our pagan ancestors had no names for them. Sir Herbert Maxwell truly remarks: "The advent of Christianity introduced a new element. Words descriptive of ecclesiastical offices or rites were adapted from the Latin to suit Celtic lips."^ Latin scrinium, a shrine, was bor- rowed and became serin, applied to an ornamental casket containing the relics of a saint. Such caskets were regarded with reverence by the Irish Church, and were preserved with much care. Dr P. W. Joyce mentions that several churches where these reliquaries were kept were known in conse- quence as serin, Anglicised " skreen " or "skrine," the best known being Skreen in Meath, sometimes styled Scrin- Choluimcille, from its possessing some of St Columba's relics.* Dr W. F. Skene observes : " Among the customs which sprang up in the Irish Church after she had been brought into contact and more frequent correspondence with the Roman Church, and had, to some extent, adopted her customs, was that of disinterring the remains of their saints and enclosing them in shrines which could be moved from place to place, and which were frequently used as a warrant for enforcing the privileges of the founder."* Scottish topography has an example of the name in question — viz., Skryne in Forfarshire. In a charter of 1361 reference is made to it as " Terra del Skryne baronie de Panmor in Anegus."^ Skryne is a farm not associated, as far as is known, with any chapel on its lands. To under- stand the name, we have to look elsewhere — viz., to Arbroath Abbey, of whose possessions it formed part in the thirteenth century.** The most feasible conclusion is that Skryne ' Scottish Dictionary, s.v. "Firlot." ^ Studies in the Topography of Galloway, p. 35. ' Irish Place-Names, p. 310. * Celt. Scot., vol. ii. pp. 292, 293. For an account of Celtic Reliquaries, vide Dr Joseph Anderson's ' Scotland in Early Christian Times,' First Series, Lecture Sixth. " Reg. de Panmure, p. 174. ' Reg. de Aberbrothoc, vol. i. p. 323. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. II received its name from having been connected with some shrine in the monastery in question for the payment of whose chaplain the farm was set apart. Another Latin term, baculum or baculus, a staff, was borrowed into Celtic, and became bachall in Gaelic, applied to the staff or crosier of a saint. It gave name to Peyna- bachalla in Lismore — i.e., the Pennyland of the bachall, in allusion, as we shall see in another chapter, to the bachall-mor or great staff of St Moluag, now in the possession of the Duke of Argyll. Dewar or Doire was the name given to the hereditary keeper of a bachall or other object connected with the cultus of a saint. The piece of land officially belonging to the Dewar was usually known as the Dewar's Croft — e.g., Croit-en-Deor, or Dewar's Croft, now part of the lands of Acharn beside Loch Tay, and at one time the property of the hereditary keepers of the crozier of St Fillan. Professor Donald Mackinnon thinks that Dura and Dury in Fife are merely altered forms of Dewar.^ Another word borrowed from Latin was offerendum, which became aifrionn in Gaelic, to signify the mass. In Perth- shire is Inchaffray, styled in Latin charters Insula missarum — i.e., the Island of Masses. Professor Mackinnon is of opinion that Hell's Glen, between Inveraray and Loch- goilhead, is in reahty the Glen of the Mass. He thus explains the mistake in the name : " In times of persecution, mass could be celebrated only in secret and in lonely places. Perhaps for this reason the word gives name to the lonely glen that opens up from the head of Loch Goil. The Latin word inferendum has also been borrowed, as ifrinn, to denote 'hell.' In sound, ifrinn, hell, and aifrionn, the mass, are much alike ; and in the name of the glen referred to the words have evidently been confused : Gleann Aifrionn, the Glen of the Mass, appears in books as Hell's Glen (Gleann Ifrinn)." ^ In many a secluded glen we find traces of early Christian- ity which are apt to be overlooked by the casual wayfarer. Such traces are to be found in the Perthshire parish of Balquhidder. According to a local tradition, St Angus, Scotsman, Article No. ix. '^ Ibid. 12 TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. a disciple of St Columba, was the first missionary to the district ; and there are still to be met with objects and sites bearing his name. A sculptured slab, with a figure evidently of an ecclesiastic in his vestments holding a chalice in his hands, is known as Clach ^nais — i.e., the Stone of Angus. Dr John Stuart tells us : " This stone was formerly placed within the old church in front of the altar, but was removed by the Rev. D. Stewart less than a century ago, with the hope of destroying a feeling which led the young men and women of the parish to stand or kneel on the stone during the marriage ceremony, and which prompted fathers also to deem the baptism of their children most effectual when they held them up to receive the sacrament standing on this monument." Dr Stuart further tells us that in the field below the church the foundations of a building, styled Oirinn ^nais, or the Oratory of Angus, were to be seen till about the middle of last century, and that the spot where the saint is said to have stood when preaching to the natives is known as Beannach ^nais — i.e., the Blessing of Angus.^ Mr J. Mackintosh Gow gives the following particulars in his ' Notes in Balquhidder,' &c. : " Saint Angus, the patron saint of the district, is said to have come to the glen from the eastward, and to have been so much struck with its marvellous beauty that he blessed it. The remains of the stone on which he sat to rest are still visible in the gable of one of the farm buildings at Easter Auchleskine, and the turn of the road is yet called Beannachadh Aonghais — Angus's Blessing. At this spot it was the custom in the old days for people going westward to show their respect for the saint by repeating ' Beannaich Aonghais ann san Aoraidh ' (Bless Angus in the oratory or chapel), at the same time taking off their bonnets. A short distance east from the parish church, in the haugh below the manse, there are seven stones remaining of a circle which appears to have been about thirty feet in diameter ; only one stone is in its original upright position, but there are fragments of others lying about. This haugh is the stance of the old market of Balquhidder, long a popular one in the district. It was held on the saint's day in April, and named Feill- ' Sculptured Stones of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 33. TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. 13 Aonghais after him. Overlooking this haugh and the stone circle, there is a knoll named Tom -Aonghais — Angus's Hillock." 1 The question often arises, Do the place-names connected with a saint in a particular district indicate that the saint himself resided there ? or had the names some other origin, such as the dedication of a chapel to him by some disciple ? In many cases the evidences in favour of a saint's residence are tolerably conclusive. The late Mr Charles Stewart enumerates certain tests that may lead to a satisfactory conclusion on the point. He says : " When we find in a district the saint's place of residence, the field or croft which he cultivated, the pool where he baptised his converts, the meal-mill of which he erected the original, particular spots where incidents connected with his history occurred, and, above all, the record of his life and successful work handed down from generation to generation, and still green in the hearts of the people, we may conclude unreservedly that he personally laboured therein. Even should some of these marks be wanting, yet enough may remain to enable us to come to the same result." ^ During the Viking period in Scotland roving bands came to our northern and western isles, and found there various traces of Celtic Christianity. These traces they did their best to obliterate. In 795 lona was ravaged by marauding bands of Norsemen. In 802 its monastery was burned, and four years later the monks on the island to the number of sixty- eight were slaughtered.^ Local topography still bears witness to the tragedy in the name of Port - na- Mairtear — i.e., the Haven of the Martyrs — on the east of the island, with Ru-Phort-na-Mairtear — i.e., the promontory of the haven in question — skirting the inlet on the south. By these Norse rovers a Columban ecclesiastic was de- scribed by the general appellation of Papa — i.e.. Pope or Priest. Captain F. W. L. Thomas gives various place- names embodying the word in one form or another. In Shetland, e.g., are Papa Stour (or Great), Papa Little and > p. S. A. Scot., vol. xxi. p. 83. 2 Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland, pp. 100, lor. ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 290. 14 TEACHING OF TOPOGRAPHY. Papa in the Bay of Scalloway, with Papal or Papil in the islands of Unst and Yell respectively. In Orkney are Papa Stronsay, Papa Westray, Paplay in South Ronaldshay, Paplay in the parish of Holm, and Papdale near Kirkwall. In the Hebrides we find Payble (North Uist), Papadill for Papa-dalr (Rum), Paible (Harris), and Pyble (Lewis), as well as Pabbay (Skye), Pabay (Lewis). These last signify the priest's island. Papal and Payble, with their variants. Captain Thomas thinks, are for papa-byli or pap-hyli — i.e., priests'-abode ; byli being presumably another form of hoi, a homestead or dwelling. It is interesting to observe that in Iceland there are two places, called respectively Papey and Papyli, where Celtic missionaries had settled, and where their missals, bells, and crosiers were discovered by the Scandinavian colonists after the middle of the ninth century.^ 1 P. S. A. Scot., vol. xi. pp. 490, 491 ; and Orkn. Sag-a, Pref., p. xx, note, and p. 38, note. CHAPTER II. THE SAINTS. Saints' names — St Andrews — St Peter's — St James's — St Leonardos — St Rollox — St Martin's — St Germain's — St Laurence's — St Catherine's — Ceres and St Cyrus — St Nicholas — St Ola — St Madoes — St Serf's — Stroivan—Findo - Gash and St Fink — Methnjen — St Fillans — Ken- noway — Birnie — St Monans — St David's — St Sheoch — St Madden' s — - St Vigeans — Nevay — Oyne — Machar — St Fergus — Sgire-na-Luac — Columki — Macallan — Marnoch — St Ninians — St Quivox — Colmonell — St Mungo's, Glasgow— St Bathans — St Ahb's — St Cuthbert's — St Giles's — St Bosnvells. Most of the saints here introduced are mentioned elsewhere in these pages, but we hear of them now in connection with locahties marked simply by their names. Such localities make us ask who were the saints, and what was their con- nection with the places indicated ? The name St Andrews suggests the question, What con- nection had Andrew the Apostle with that ancient seat of learning and centre of religious life in mediaeval Scotland ? St Andrews became the ecclesiastical metropolis in the tenth century, when the chief bishopric of Alban was re- moved thither from Abernethy in Perthshire. But we have to look for the ecclesiastical origin of the place at a date about two centuries earlier. Dr Skene holds that in 736, during the reign of Angus, son of Fergus, Bishop Acca of Hexham, having fled from his own diocese, took refuge among the Picts, and brought with him to Fife certain bones believed to be those of St Andrew.^ In an address ^ St Andrew is believed to have been crucified at Patras, in Achaia. Owen, in his 'Sanctorale Catholicum' (p. 465 and note), says: "The holy Apostle's remains were honourably interred by Maximilla, the wife l6 THE SAINTS. delivered at St Andrews, the late Marquess of Bute ob- serves : "It is certain that Angus, King of the Picts, re- ceived rehques of the Apostle, which he placed here, and immolated this place, the antient Muckross, the more modern Cillrighmonaich, to the Apostle, from whom it is now named." The Marquess adds : " Whatever the history of these bits of bone, and whether they were or were not part of the body of the first-called apostle of Christ, they were undoubtedly believed at the time to be genuine, and they were the immediate cause of the creation of St Andrews as the great national Church of Scotland."^ According to a well-known tradition the relics of St Andrew were brought from the East to Fife in the fourth century by St Regulus, otherwise St Rule; but much uncertainty attaches to the chronology of the story. Regulus is some- what of a hagiological problem which even Dr Skene, with all his historical knowledge, has failed to completely solve.^ We find a trace of St Andrew in the far North, for in the mainland of Orkney is the parish of St Andrews, separate quoad sacra, but united quoad civilia to Deerness. In Elginshire was the ancient parish of St Andrews, joined to Lhanbryd in 1780. Its church is gone, but its burying-ground remains, close to the Lossie, near Kirkhill. By Nectan, ruler of the Picts, St Peter was made the guardian of his kingdom in 710 ; but later in the same century St Andrew took his place, and, as every one knows, is still reckoned the patron saint of Scotland.* We have a trace of Peter in the ancient parish of St Peter's in the of the pro-consul, and afterwards translated by the Emperor Constantine the Great to the Church of the Apostles at Constantinople." "Amalfi in Southern Italy claims a second translation as well as the patronage of St Andrew." — 'Celt. Scot.,' vol. ii. pp. 222, 271-274, and 'P. S. A. Scot.,' vol. iv. pp. 314. 315- ' University of St Andrews : Rectorial Address (1893), p. 25. ^ Vide P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxvii. pp. 247-254; Skene's Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 261-275 ; and Bishop Dowden's The Celtic Church in Scot- land, pp. 329-331. » Miss Florence Peacock remarks: "The patron-saint of Scotland seems in some parts of England to be held in hig-h esteem ; in Lincolnshire alone there are no less than sixty-eight churches dedicated to him." — ' Curious Church Customs,' pp. 40, 41. THE SAINTS. 17 Orcadian island of Stronsay, and in St Peter's village ^ in Boreray in the Outer Hebrides. Another apostle, James, is represented in the name of the ancient district known as St James's parish, now included in that of Roxburgh. Its church was dedicated on the 17th April 1 134. The building was nearly destroyed about the year 1425 during the Border wars, but was afterwards restored.^ Its ruins remained till modern times, when the stones were removed for building purposes. The church stood on a piece of ground still known as St James's Green, where, according to the ' N. S. A.,'^ St James's Fair is held annually on the 5th August, being St James's Day (O.S.) As we have seen, the relics of St Andrew were brought at an early date to Fife. Many pilgrims flocked to his shrine, and a hospital was built for their reception some time, it is believed, in the twelfth century. This hospital, like so many others, was dedicated to St Leonard, but was suppressed by Prior Hepburn in 1512, when St Leonard's College was founded. The saint continues to be remembered in the name of St Leonard's parish. According to Alban Butler, Leonard was a French nobleman at the Court of Clovis I., but quitted the Court and sought retirement at Mobilac, near Limoges, where he founded a monastery, called after him St Leonard de Ncblat. He died about the middle of the sixth century. He was noted for his kindness to captives, and became, in after-times, their patron saint. His emblem in art is a chain, in allusion to this trait in his character.* The Rev. R. Owen mentions that " Bohemond, Prince of Antioch, son of Robert Guiscard, when he came to France in 1106, visited Limoges and offered silver fetters to St Leonard as a thankoffering for his escape from captivity." ^ Another French saint, St Roche, Rook, or Roque, has left a trace of himself in the west of Scotland in the district of Glasgow known as St Rollox, which is merely his name in an altered form. He belonged to Montpellier in Languedoc. After visiting Italy, where he was seized 1 Martin, p. 59. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 4SS- ^ Roxburgh, p. 351. * Husenbeth's Emblems of Saints, pp. 128, 129. ^ Sanctorale Catholicum, p. 438, note. B l8 THE SAINTS. with the plague but recovered, he returned to Montpellier, and died there about 1327. He was invoked by persons suffering from pestilence. When speaking of the sick going in hope of cure to the shrines of different saints. Sir David Lyndsay says : — " Sum to St Roche, with diligence To saif thame from the pestilence." ' His cultus seems to have been popular in Scotland, where there were five chapels dedicated to him — viz., at Edinburgh, Dundee, Stirling, Paisley, and Glasgow, the last giving name to St Rollox.^ It was built about 1508 by Thomas Mureheid, a canon of Glasgow Cathedral, and stood a little way beyond the Stable-Green Port, near the head of what is now Castle Street. M'Ure, writing in 1736, says: " There is no vestige remaining of the building, but the yard that was round it is still conspicuous, and some persons of distinction of the city, who died of the pestilence anno 1645 and 1646, were buried here." ^ St Martin, another inhabitant of Gaul, is found in Scottish topography. He was not a native of Gaul, having been born at Sabaria in Pannonia, and educated at Pavia in Italy. His father was a soldier, and he himself was some time in the army, but quitted it for a life of religious retire- ment. His austere piety led to his election as Bishop of Tours on the Loire in 371, and he continued such till his death in 397, at the age of eighty or thereabouts.* The introduction of his cultus into Scotland was due to St Ninian. There are various signs of his popularity north of the Tweed. " Sanct - Martines alias Melginche" — (Megginch) — in Errol parish, occurs in a charter in 1633 ; ^ and we find Inchmartin in the same neighbourhood. Another Perthshire instance is St Martin's parish, com- prising since the end of the seventeenth century the ancient parish of Cambusmichael, and having within it the estate ' Poetical Works, vol. iii. p. 6. 2 " We find the forms Rok and RoUock at Paisley. St Rollock's kirkland there is mentioned in 1658."— ' Paisley Burgh Records,' p. 140. ^ History of Glasgow, p. 62. •■ There is some doubt as to his precise dates. ' R. M. S. THE SAINTS. 19 of St Martin's Abbey. The ancient parish of Cullicudden in Ross-shire, now part of ResoHs, had its church dedi- cated to St Martin, and according to the ' N. S. A.'^ is still called in Gaelic Sgire a Mhartinn — i.e., the Parish of St Martin's. St Germains, in East Lothian, referred to in the chapter on " The Templars," is called after yet another French saint — Germanus, Duke, and afterwards Bishop, of Auxerre. Before entering the religious life he was specially devoted to the pleasures of the chase ; and in art we find him rep- resented with the dead bodies of wild beasts lying around him.^ He visited Britain twice — first with St Lupus of Troyes in 429 to suppress Pelagianism, and again, in 446, with Severus, Bishop of Treves. On the former occasion he headed an army of Christian Britons in a battle against the pagan Picts and Saxons near Mold in North Wales, at a place afterwards called Maes-y-Garmon — i.e., St Germain's Plain, the halleluiahs of the clergy gaining the day for the Britons.* Probably in consequence of this he was very popular in Wales. In Cornwall we find the town and river of St Germains called after him. He died at Ravenna in 448, and was buried at Auxerre. His shrines were favourite resorts of health-seekers, who, according to Sir David Lyndsay, ran " To Sanct Germane to get remeid For maladeis into thair heid." * Slamannan parish in Stirlingshire was, in pre- Reformation times, known as St Laurence, and in legal documents is still styled " the parish of Slamannan, otherwise St Laur- ence." Near the church is a spring called St Laurence's Well. The saint was a deacon at Rome, who suffered martyrdom about the middle of the third century by being roasted on a gridiron. The story of his having presented the poor of Rome to the pagan governor when the treasures of the church were demanded of him, coupled with that of 1 Ross, p. 38. ^ Husenbeth's Emblems of Saints, p. 92. 2 Bede's Ecclesiastical History, lib. i. cap. xx. * Poetical Works, vol. iii. p. 6. 20 THE SAINTS. his heroism in suffering, made the name of Laurence popular in Christendom. Another early martyr, St Catherine of Alexandria, is probably recalled by St Catherine's on Loch Fyne, opposite Inveraray. Much fable is mingled with her biography. The Rev. Thomas Lees observes : " None of our most ancient English churches are dedicated to her. In fact, her legend is not earlier than the eighth century, and was not intro- duced into Western Christendom till after the Crusades in the eleventh century. Her cultus then became rapidly popular."^ She is said to have met her death early in the fourth century. A spiked wheel was destined for her execution ; but this being miraculously destroyed, she was beheaded. A wheel, however, continues to be her usual emblem in art. In the fifteenth century St Catherine's was the name of a small district in Shotts parish, Lanark- shire, surrounding the church. In this case the name recalls not St Catherine of Alexandria but St Catherine of Sienna, who died in 1380 and was canonised in 1461. Chalmers says : " James, Lord Hamilton, having acquired in February 1471-2 an extensive tract of land in the moor- land district which afterwards formed the parish of Shotts, he founded there a chapel, which was dedicated to St Catherine of Sienna ; and he founded at the same place a hospital for the reception of the poor, which he endowed with some lands at Kinneil. Those several foundations were confirmed by a bull of Sixtus IV. on the 30th of April 476. This hospital disappeared after the Reformation ; but St Catherine's chapel was constituted a parish church when the parish of Shotts was erected." ^ Ceres in Fife and St Cyrus* in Kincardineshire are both believed to have been called after St Cyric, otherwise Cyr or Quiricus, an infant martyr who met his death, along with his mother Julitta, at Tarsus in Cilicia, during one of the pagan persecutions early in the fourth century.* A spring in St Cyrus parish bears the saint's name, and near it is ' Transactions of Cumberland and Westmorland Antiquarian and Arch- aeological Society, vol. xi., Part I. " Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 658. » Vide " Ecclesgreig " in chap. iv. * Kal., s.v. "Cyricius." THE SAINTS. 21 a piece of ground known as St Cyrus Ward.^ The southern part of Stronsay island at one time formed the parish of St Nicholas, so named from the Bishop of Myra, who, like Cyric, belonged to the fourth century, but was a confessor, not a martyr. From a mediaeval point of view it was fit that an Orcadian parish should bear the name of St Nicholas, for he was reckoned the patron-saint of sailors, and we know how zealously a seafaring life has been followed among our northern isles. St Ola, another ancient Orcadian parish, now united to Kirkwall, to which its kirk gave name, recalls St Olaf the Holy, King of Norway, who is said to have been converted from paganism by a hermit in the Isles of Scilly.^ He died in battle in the year 1030. According to the ' Registrum Episcopatus Aber- donensis,'^ "the veneration of St Olaf extended both to Scotland and England." There was a church dedicated to him at Cruden, and among the articles enumerated in an inventory of the treasury of the Cathedral of Aberdeen in 1518 there is "a small image of St Olaf, of silver decorated with precious stones." When St Boniface came to evangelise Pictland in the seventh century he was accompanied by a band of followers. One of these was Madianus, who is still remembered in the Perthshire parish of St Madoes, otherwise known as Semmidoes or Semmidores. The " stannin' stanes o' Semmidores " are mentioned in an old ballad. St Serf, otherwise Servanus, gave name to the ancient parish of St Serfs, united to Luncarty and Redgorton prior to i6ig to form the present parish of Redgorton. The saint had associations with Dunning and Culross. At the latter place he is said to have instructed St Mungo. His festival was held there till modern times on July ist, the in- habitants marching in procession and carrying green boughs in honour of the day.* The belief in the connection between St Mungo and St Serf at Culross is an ancient one, as is shown by two entries in the Lord High Treasurer's Accounts ^ relative to offerings made by James IV. in 1511 : " Item, the v day of October offerit in the ' O. S. A., vol. xi. p. 89. ^ Sanctorale Catholicum, p. 327. 3 Vol. ii. p. 172. * Appendix, B. ° Vol. iv. p. 176. 22 THE SAINTS. Chapele of Sanct Mungo besid Culrose xiiij sh." " Item» offerit to Sanct Serfis fertur [i.e., reliquary], xiiij sh." Bishop Forbes remarks : " The evangelisation of the west of Fifei and the district on either side of the Ochils is attributed to S. Servanus, who, as Serf or Sair in the popular language of Scotland, as Serb in the ancient writings of Ireland, occupies an important place in the religious history of Scotland." As a matter of fact, there seem to have been two saints called Serf, one circa 500 and another two centuries later. Mr David Beveridge mentions that there is a curious old bridge in Glendevon bearing St Serfs name.^ Monzievaird parish, united to Strowan in the seventeenth century, had St Serf as its patron saint, though it was not called after him : but Strowan bears the name of another early missionary, St Rowan or Ronan, who, according to Skene, died in 737 as Bishop of Kingarth in Bute.^ There are traces of the saint in the district. St Rowan's bell, connected with the custody of which were three acres of land, is still preserved in Strowan House. Pol-Ronan, or St Ronan's Pool, " is a deep linn in jthe river Earn, about one hundred yards above the bridge of Strowan." Near the pool used to be held Feill-Ronan or St Ronan's Fair, at a spot still marked by a cross bearing the sacred initials I. N. R. I.* A farm in the neighbour- hood is called the Carse of Trowan.^ Findoca and Fincana were two saintly virgins who are said in the ' Martyrology of Aberdeen ' to have had churches in the diocese of Dunblane. They have the same day in the calendar (13th October), and this probably led to the notion that the two names represented one individual. The former gave name to Findo-Gask, and the latter to St Fink, an estate in Bendochy parish, close to which are the foundations of a chapel dedicated to the saint. The Hill of St Fink is in the neighbourhood. One of the daughters ' Kal., i.f. "Servanus." = Mr Beveridge discusses the problem of the two Serfs in his ' Culross and Tulliallan,' vol, i. pp. 44-72. » Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 282. •> N. S. A., Perth, pp. 724, 740. ° Chronicles of Strathearn, p. 38. THE SAINTS. 23 of St Donevald of the Den of Ogilvie, circa 716, was named Fincana, and she may have been the saint in question. Methven, locally pronounced Meffen, a Perthshire parish with a village of the same name, was probably so called from St Methven, who had a chapel, and a fair styled St Methvanmas market, in the adjoining parish of Fowlis- Wester. The ' Martyrology of Aberdeen ' connects St Bean — not, however, the same as St Bean of Mortlach — with Fowlis- Wester, and it is possible that, with the honoriiic Ma or Mo prefixed to Bean, the name might assume the form Meffen or Methven. From ' The Provostry of Methven,' ^ by the late Rev. T. Morris, we learn that, " so far as conjecture is concerned, tradition is almost unanimous in ascribing to Culdeesland the site both of the original baronial castle and the local religious establishment." The village of St Fillans in Comrie parish, at the foot of Loch Earn and near Dunfillan, recalls the name of Faolan the Stammerer or the Leper, of Irish birth, but usually described as of Rath Erenn in Alban — i.e., the Fort of the Earn in Scotland, now Dundurn, an ancient parish whose church was dedicated to Faolan. St Phillans, the old name of Forgan ^ parish in Fife, recalls, not Faolan the Stammerer but Faolan of Strathdochart. Kennoway, another parish in the same shire, was so called, according to Bishop Reeves, from a saint of the sixth century known in Ireland as Cainnech and in Scotland as Kenneth. Reeves remarks : " His festival, both in Ireland and Scotland, is October the eleventh. There are six lessons at his festival in the 'Breviary of Aberdeen,' intituled, 'Sancti Caynici Abbatis qui in Kennoquhy in diocesi Sancti Andree pro patrono habetur.' The church here mentioned is Kennoway in Fife.'"* A bell, once belonging to the parish church of Kennoway, but now at Borthwick Hall in Mid-Lothian, bears the inscription, in raised letters, 1 Pp. I, 2. 2 The parish contains St Fort. Old forms of the name are Sanctfuird, Sandfurde, and Sarafurde. In Dalrymple parish, Ayrshire, is St Valley, and there is Pinvalley near the Stinchar in the same county, but nothing is known regarding the saint, if indeed we have a saint in the name at all. ' Adamnan, p. 270. 24 THE SAINTS. " I'm for the Kirk o' Kennochi." ^ Birnie in Elginshire, formerly Brennach, embodies in a slightly altered form the name of St Brendan, "the voyager," to whoni its church is believed to have been dedicated. "Birnie church," remarks Dr Anderson, "is the only one in the district which is constructed with nave and chancel, and the occurrence of two sculptured stones of early type in- dicates that it was a Christian settlement from an early date." Its bell, styled "the Ronnell Bell of Birnie," belongs to the well-known class of quadrangular bells associated with the early days of Celtic Christianity.^ St Monans, on the south coast of Fife, with its church picturesquely placed close to the sea, was anciently as- sociated under the name of Inverry with the cultus of a saint regarding whom divergent views have been taken. When speaking of St Adrian and his company, who are said to have arrived in Fife from Hungary in the ninth century, Wyntoun says : — " In Inverey Saynct Monane, That off that cumpany wes ane, Chesyd hym so nere the se Till lede hys lyff ; thare endyt he." On the other hand, Skene holds that Adrian and his band came from Ireland, and that, " so far from being accom- panied by a living St Monan, who lived at Inverry, they had probably brought with them the relics of the dead St Moinenn, Bishop of Clonfert, of the sixth century, in whose honour the church, afterwards called St Monans, was founded."^ A difficulty in the way of accepting Skene's view lies in the fact that the traces of Monan's cultus in Scotland point to one who had some connection with our land, either personally or through the medium of disciples, rather than to one whose only link with it was the introduction of his relics nearly three hundred years after his death. We find St Monan's Wynd at Edin- ' Gaz., s.v. " Kennoway," note. '•' Scotland in Early Christian Times, First Series, pp. 177, 178. " Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 314. THE SAINTS. 25 burgh ;i St Monan's Well at Pittenweem; St Monan's Cave at Inverry ; St Monan's Chaplainry in Kiltearn parish, Ross-shire.^ Some writers have sought to identify Monan with St Ninian of Whithorn, who is called Nynias by Bede, and by Irish writers Monennius, with the honorific prefix ; but this identification is not a likely one. The church of St Monan's was founded by David II. about the year 1362. It is a "fine specimen of middle pointed Gothic," and con- sists of a chancel, north and south transepts, and a tower at their intersection.^ There are conflicting accounts re- garding the foundation of the church. According to one tradition David built it, because at the tomb of St Monan he was miraculously freed from a barbed arrow with which he had been wounded at Neville's Cross a number of years before.* According to another, the king's motive was gratitude for having been saved from shipwreck when he and the queen were crossing the Firth in a storm. King David I., described by his successor James I. (of Scotland) as " ane sair saunt for the croon," on account of his munificent grants to the Church, was noted as the founder of bishoprics and religious houses. He died in 1153, after a reign of twenty-nine years. In Dalgetty parish, Fife, is the seaport of St Davids; and in Madderty parish, Perth- shire, is the village of St Davids, occupying the site of Craig of Madderty, which had been formed into a burgh of barony in 1626. The parish of Craig in Forfarshire comprises the ancient parishes of Inchbrayock or Craig and St Skeoch or Dun- ninald, united in 1618. On the edge of the cliff overhang- ing the sea is the picturesque burying-ground of St Skeoch 1 " In olden times there was a wynd leading- from the High Street to the Cowg-ate called S. Monan's or S. Mennan's Wynd, from a chapel of the saint which stood in it. Its entrance was nearly opposite to the east end of S. Giles's church."— ' Lectures on the Religious Antiquities of Edin- burgh,' Last Series, p. 114. Edinburgh, 1874. ^ O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 478. ^ Walker's Pre-Reformation Churches in Fifeshire. ^ In the ' Martyrolog-y of Aberdeen' we read, under date March ist, "In Scotia Sancti Monani confessoris apud Inuere in Fyfe quem locum fama sanctitatis Monani tam de vrbibus quam de agris vulgiis innumer- abile tam validorum quam lang-uidorum ad beneficia Monani consequenda continue confluit." 26 THE SAINTS, or St Skay, where once stood a chapel. The rock of St Skeoch on the beach below is also known as the Elephant Rock, from its resemblance to that animal. Attempts have been made to identify St Skeoch, but with no satisfactory result. Bishop Forbes remarks : " The name of the parish is found as S. Scawachie in the ' Charge of the Tempor- ality of Kirklands north of the Forth.' Dr Reeves con- jectures that the name may be a corruption of Eochaidh. Of this name there are three saints in the Irish calendar; one was Abbot of Lismore, a.d. 634. There was an Echoid who was one of the twelve disciples, and relations, of St Columba. There is a Skeoch in Rothesay, and it is curious that in this place is St Brock Fair ; while close to the Forfarshire St Skay is Inchbrayock. In Mauchline is Skeoch Hill. In the parish of St Ninians is a chapel at Skeoch, a mile below Bannockburn, dedicated to the Virgin. "1 St Ninian's Well at Stirling, to be referred to later, was anciently called Tibbermasko — i.e., St Skeoch's Well. Mr J. S. Fleming tells us that in 1489 the Sandilands family endowed a chapel at Tibbermasko, on Wellcroft, at Stirling.^ The hamlet of St Madden's or St Medan's in the parish of Airlie, where are also St Medan's Well and St Medan's Knowe,* probably retains the name of St Modan, believed to have been a contemporary of St Ronan. Skene says : " Modan appears in the Scotch calendars as an abbot on the fourth February, and as a bishop on the fourteenth November; but the dedications to him are so much mixed up together that it is probable that the same Modan is meant in both."* The church of Airlie was dedicated to St Medan. St Maddan's chapel at Freswick in Caithness seems to have been dedicated to the Scime saint; and it is likely that he gave name to Auchmedden and Pitmedden in Aberdeenshire. We find St Meddan also at Troon in Ayrshire. The parish of St Vigeans, known alternatively as Aberbrothock till about 1560, is named after St Fechan (Latinised Vigeanus), who, according to local tradition, ' Kal., s.v. "Skay.' " Ancient Castles and Mansions of Stirling Nobility, p. 283. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. V. pp. 350-357. * Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 282. THE SAINTS. 27 had a chapel, a hermitage, and a well at Grange of Conon, and flourished towards the end of the tenth century.^ With more probability the saint may be identified with St Fechan, Abbot of Fobhar or Fore in Westmeath, who lived in the seventh century, and had a monastic settlement on Ardoilean, an almost inaccessible island six miles off the coast of Connemara, where remains of buildings, surrounded by a cashel or stone-rampart, are still visible.^ The church of St Vigeans stands on a mound close to the Brothock, a mile and a half from the sea, and has a special claim on antiquaries on account of its valuable collection of early sculptured stones.^ A fair, known as St Vigean's or St Virgin's market, was long held annually in the parish in January. The ancient Forfarshire parish of Nevay, united to Eassie prior to the middle of the seventeenth century, derived its name in all probability from St Neamha (pronounced Neva), grandson of Brychan of Wales, and Abbot of Lismore, who died circa 610. The ruined church of Nevay still stands in its ancient burying-ground. Oyne parish in Aberdeenshire perhaps recalls St Adamnan. According to Mr J. Macdonald, "Adamnan might become Unyn, one of the oldest forms of Oyne, if Robertson's ' Index of Charters' is correct."* The ancient parish of Machar, Aberdeenshire, comprising what are now the parishes of Old Machar and Upper or New Machar, has St Machar or Macarius as its eponymus. He is otherwise known as Mauritius or Mocumma, and is said in the ' Martyrology of Aberdeen ' to have died Archbishop of Tours, — manifestly a proleptic title, seeing that he was a contemporary of St Columba in the sixth century. He was of Irish birth, but his missionary work ^ N. S. A., Forfar, p. 490. ^ "The doorway [of the church on Ardoilean] is two feet wide and four feet six inches hig^h ; and its horizontal lintel is decorated with a cross exactly similar to that on the lintel of St Fechin's Church at Fore."— Dr Joseph Anderson's ' Scotland in Early Christian Times,' vol. i. p. 86. ' P. S. A., vol. ix. pp. 481, 498; and Early Christian Monuments of Scotland, Part III., pp. 234-242, 267-280. * The Place-Names of West Aberdeenshire, by Jas. Macdonald (s.v. " Oyne "). 28 THE SAINTS. was chiefly associated with Scotland. Columba is said to have sent him to Pictavia with instructions to build his church where he found a stream making a curve in the form of a pastoral staff. This he found at Old Aberdeen where St Machar's Cathedral now stands.^ The parish of St Fergus in Buchan, known formerly as Inverugie or Langley, received its name from St Fergus, who died at Glamis circa 750. He was for some time a bishop in Ireland, though probably of Scottish birth, and according to Skene was one of the bishops who attended the ecclesiastical council at Rome in 721. His relics were much valued. His arm was kept in Aberdeen Cathedral,^ and his head at Scone where it was preserved in a silver case ordered for it by James IV.,' and where the king made an offering to it of 14 sh. on nth October 1504.^ His bacheel, or crosier, according to the 'Aberdeen Breviary,' once stilled a storm by being thrown into the waves. We find traces of him in Strathearn,^ and in the shires of Forfar, Aberdeen, and Caithness. He was patron of Wick, and his memory was formerly much revered there. His stone image in the burgh was destroyed in 1613 by the Rev. Dr Merchiston of Bower, and the inhabitants were so enraged that they drowned the minister in the river of Wick when he was returning home. The report was spread abroad that St Fergus himself did the drowning, having been seen astride of the minister and holding him down in the water.^ Cromdale parish on Speyside was anciently called Sgire- na-Luac, the Parish of St Luac of Lismore ; Columba has his name represented in St Colm's, the ancient name of Burness parish in Sanday Island, Orkney, and in St Combs, a village in Buchan, regarding whose church Dr Pratt writes : " The ruins of St Colm's kirk are to be seen at the east > KaA., s.v. "Mauritius." ^ Collections for History of Shires of Aberdeen and Banff, p. ;:^4. ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. pp. 232, 233. •* Lord High Treasurer's Accounts, vol. ii. p. 265. ' " He dedicated three churches to Saint Patrick — viz., at Strageath, at Struthill, and at Blairinroar. At the last-mentioned place some cot-houses are still called St Patrick's."— ' Chronicles of Stratheam," p. 39. " Calder's History of Caithness, p. 186. THE SAINTS. 29 end of the village of the same name. The church stood on the northern slope of the hill, on a sort of knoll, about one hundred and fifty yards from the sea. The situation is similar to those in which the Columban monks seemed to delight — commanding a fine view of the ocean." ^ Columba's name, in an altered form, appears in Columkil in Torosay parish. Mull, where there are the ruins of a chapel dedicated to him.^ Regarding the latter form of the saint's name, Dr Reeves remarks : " He was baptised by the presbyter Cruithnechan, under the name Colum, to which the addition of cille, signifying ' of the church,' was sub- sequently made, in reference to his diligent attendance at the church of his youthful sojourn." Dr Reeves adds : " Not churches, for then the name would be Colum-nagh- ceall," ^ though the saint might well have been called Columba of the churches, for many indeed were founded by him. Knockando parish, Elginshire, comprises the ancient parishes of Knockando and Macallan, the latter signifying St Colin. The date of his death is given by Forbes* as 497. In Ireland he was known as Maculin of Lusk, and is said to have twice visited Scotland and to have been in repute there. The church of Macallan became ruinous about 1760. The parish of Marnoch in Banffshire, anciently styled also Aberchirder, derived its name from St Marnoch, other- wise Marnan or Ernan, who, dying at an advanced age in 625, was buried in its church. His relics were carefully preserved. According to the ' Breviary of Aberdeen ' his head was washed every Sunday, and the water was given to the sick to drink. The head was also believed to give special sanctity to oaths taken in its presence. St Marnoch's church stood close to the Deveron, and, as the ' Aberdeen Breviary ' puts it, was secured and surrounded by that most beautiful river (pulcherrimo Duverne fluvio munita et vallata). St Ninian of Whithorn is represented in central Scotland in the Stirlingshire town and parish of St Ninian's, other- wise St Ringan's. From the 'N. S. A.'^ we learn that, ' History of Buchan, p. 173. ^ O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 307. ^ Adamnan, Notes to Introduction, p. 225. * Kal., s.v." Macallan." ^ Stirling, p. 304. 30 THE SAINTS. " long after the parish was called St Ninians, the village in the parish register is styled Kirktown ; and it is only since 1724 that this name was entirely dropped." A building, believed to have been a chapel, covers St Ninian's spring. It consists of two storeys, the lower being "a simple barrel-vaulted chamber, eleven feet by fourteen feet, the upper having been built by order of the Stirling Town Council, and formed into a house for the convenience of the town's washerwomen. A niche in the north-east wall has evidently been made to hold the image of the saint, while there has also been a piscina in the same wall. The flow of water is enormous, and enters the building from under the south-west gable, and, after passing through the little chamber, flows out at the east wall." ^ Two Ayrshire parishes call for mention — viz., St Quivox and Colmonell. The former is sometimes mistakenly repre- sented as bearing the name of St Kevoca, a virgin who flourished circa 1000. Thus the writer in the ' N. S. A.' says : "The name of the parish is now generally written St Quivox, but sometimes St Evox. At an earlier period it appears always to have been written St Kevoch. The name is supposed to be derived from ' Sancta Kennocha Virgo in Coila,' who lived in the reign of Malcolm Second, and was distinguished for her zeal in promoting monastic institu- tions."^ In reality the saint so named was an Irishman, and not a female saint at all. His name was Caemhog (pronounced Keevog), and he died at an advanced age about the middle of the seventh century. Regarding this curious change of sex Bishop Reeves remarks : " At March thirteenth they [the Scottish calendars] have a Sancta Kevoca, who was venerated as the patroness of Kyle. In Ireland she is at the same day known as Caemhog, more generally called with the familiar prefix Mo-Chaemhog. This saint's name is Latinised Pulcherius ; and he was founder and abbot of Liathmor, which, with the addition of his name, was afterwards called Leamokevoge. The history of his meta- physis is easily explained. The termination og is grammati- ' J. S. Fleming's Old Nooks of Stirling, p. 112. ' Ayr, p. 118. THE SAINTS. 3 1 cally feminine. The Gaelic-speaking Scots of the middle ages, not knowing the antecedents of St Caemhog, changed his gender, and the hagiologist accepted the name upon the terms." ^ Colmonell bears witness to another Irishman, St Colman Eala, whose name the Rev. J. B. Johnston interprets as Colum of the Eala, a stream in King's County.^ The ' Martyrology of Donegal ' has this entry regarding him : " Colman Eala, Abbat of Lann Elo, in Fir Ceall in West- meath. Columcille's sister was his mother — i.e., Mor, daughter of Feidhlimidh, son of Ferghus Cennfada, son of Conall Gulban, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages. Fifty-two was his age when he resigned his spirit to heaven, A.D. 610."* He is called Columbanus* in Adamnan's ' Vita Columbae,' where we are told that Columba revealed to his monks in lona the danger in which Columbanus was placed when crossing the whirlpool of Corryvreckan. When St Mungo returned from Wales into Scotland about 573, having been recalled thither by Rydderch Hael, the Christian King of Strathclyde, who had overcome his pagan foes at the battle of Arthuret on the Esk in that year, he remained for some time in what is now Dumfriesshire, at a place called by Joceline Hodelm, now Hoddam. St Mungo's, the next parish to Hoddam, bears his name. Before the Reformation it was called Abermelc, and later Castlemelc, from a fortress built by the Bruces on the Melc before the middle of the twelfth century. Its church was a mensal church of the Bishops of Glasgow, who are said to have had a residence in the parish near the remains of a garden and fish-pond, which were visible at the end of the eighteenth century.* St Mungo was the former name of Penicuik parish, Mid-Lothian, where St Mungo's Well, in the manse garden, is a reminder of the ancient dedication. Various etymologies have been given of Glasgow. After 1 The Culdees, p. 39. 2 Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Colmonell." ' P. 261. * Adaranan also styles him " Colmanus." For the different forms of his name vide Reeves's 'Adamnan,' p. 251. ^ Chalmers's Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 188. 32 THE SAINTS. referring to some of these, Canon Isaac Taylor remarks: " The most probable is that given by Professor Rhys, who holds that the name is from one of the Gaelic pet-names of St Kentigern or St ' Mungo,' around whose cell the place grew up. The British name Kentigern would be pro- nounced Cunotigernos, in the first letters of which the Gaels discovered their own word for a hound. Hence they affec- tionately called him either Munchu, the ' dear dog,' which became Mungo, or Deschu, the 'southern hound,' or, from his white hair, Glaschu, the 'grey hound,' by which last name his cell came to be known." ^ The last word, how- ever, has probably not yet been said on the subject. The parish of Yester in East Lothian was anciently called St Bathans or St Bothans, after Baithene, a cousin of St Columba, who succeeded the latter as Abbot of lona in 597, but died two years later, on the gth of June — the same day of the year as that on which St Columba passed away. The name was changed to Yester after the Reformation,^ but St Bathans was also in use till about 1668. In 1421 Sir William Hay of Locherwart made the parish church collegiate for a provost, six prebendaries, and two singing boys ; but after the Reformation it resumed its purely parochial character. The old church occupied a different site from the one built at Gifford in 1708. Its kirktown, like the church itself, bore the name of the patron saint, and was known as Bothans.^ St Abb's, otherwise Coldingham Shore, in Berwickshire, takes our thoughts back to the seventh century, when Ebba, daughter of King Ethelfrid of Northumbria and sister of St Oswald, sought retirement on the promontory known from her as St Abb's Head. She was abbess of a mon- astery at Coldingham,* and was visited successively by St Cuthbert, and St Ethelreda afterwards of Ely. A priory ' Names and their Histories, p. 134. ■^ Even before the Reformation the parish was sometimes called Yester, but commonly St Bathans. ' Caledonia, vol. ii. pp. 513, 534, 535. ■" "Coldingham was a twin or double monastery — i.e., an establishment in which monks and nuns resided, apart, indeed, but under one head." — Smith's 'Diet, of Christ. Biography,' i.t;, "Ebba." THE SAINTS. 33 church was founded at Coldingham in 1098 by Edgar, son of Malcolm Canmore and Margaret, and dedicated to the Virgin along with St Ebba and St Cuthbert. The king granted the church to St Cuthbert's monks at Durham, some of whom were settled at Coldingham.^ Dalyell says : "It is related that a certain damsel, severely distempered, having been carried to the shrine of St Ebba at Colding- ham, she recovered after beholding a white dove on the altar in a vision." ^ St Cuthbert^ himself lives in the name of an Edinburgh parish, still large, though not so large as in former times. In the twelfth century the parish was bestowed by David I. on his recently founded Abbey of Holyrood.* Another Edinburgh parish — viz., that of St Giles's — also points back to an early saint. The saint in question died about the year 700. The details of his story vary, but the following outline occurs in the account given by Chambers : " Giles or ^gidius is believed to have been a Greek who migrated to France. Settling in a hermitage, first in one of the deserts near the mouth of the Rhone, finally in a forest in the diocese of Nismes, he gave him- self to solitude and heavenly contemplation. There is a romantic story of his being partly indebted for his sub- sistence to a Heaven-directed hind, which came daily to give him its milk ; and it is added that his retirement was discovered by the king of the country, who, starting this animal in the chase, followed it till it took refuge at the feet of the holy anchorite. St Giles became, almost against his own will, the head of a little monastic establishment, which in time grew to be a regular Benedictine monastery, and was surrounded by a town taking its name from the saint." ^ During the reign of James II., William Preston of Gorton brought from France an arm-bone of St Giles, ^ Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 351. ^ Darker Superstitions of Scotland, p. 418. ^ An attempt, but not a successful one, is made by Dr Charles Rogers to derive Cupar-in- Angus from Cuthbert. Vide ' Reg. of Cupar Abbey,' Pref., p. vi. * Lib. Cart. S. Crucis, p. 3. ^ Book of Days, vol. ii. p. 296 ; Appendix, C. C 34 THE SAINTS, which was placed for security in the saint's Edinburgh church. In 1556 the Dean of Guild spent i2d. in mending and polishing the relic. The saint's image was also much esteemed. Its fate is thus described by Sir Daniel Wilson : " It was the custom for the clergy of Edinburgh to walk annually in grand procession, on the first of September, the anniversary of St Giles, the patron saint of the town ; but in the year 1558, before the arrival of St Giles's day, the mob contrived to get into the church, and, carrying off the image of the saint, they threw it into the North Loch, and thereafter committed it to the flames." ^ The church of St Giles was made collegiate in 1466, but did not attain to an episcopal status till after the Reformation, when the short-hved bishopric of Edinburgh was created in 1633. When Cuthbert entered the monastery at Old Melrose, Boisil was its prior, and from him, as Bede tells us, he received " both the knowledge of the Holy Scriptures and example of good works." When Boisil died of the plague in the year 664, Cuthbert succeeded him as prior. The appreciation of Boisil by Cuthbert is thus expressed in a " Metrical Life " of the latter, written in the thirteenth century : — " In haly eland kirke he knew Haly men and wyse y new That couthe him monkes lare [doctrine] lere [teach] Bot him thoght better and mare [more] dere [dear] For to leue in Maylros For the grete name and gude loos [fame] Of boisil that haly man That passand monk was halden than." ^ In an inventory of relics at Durham in 1383 mention is made of the " Comb of St Boysil." » We find his name surviving in St Boswells in Roxburghshire, where an annual fair is still held on the i8th of July, on a piece of 1 Memorials of Old Edinburgh, p. 60. - Metrical Life of St Cuthbert, p. 40. " The Antiquary (Oct. 1896), p. 315. THE SAINTS. 35 ground known as St Boswell's Green. Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, received an invitation from Sir Walter Scott to accompany him to the coronation of George IV. Hogg wrote decHning the offer, after a good deal of hesitation. Sir Walter says : " He stood balancing the matter whether to go to the coronation or the fair of St Boswells, and the fair carried it." ^ ' Scott's Familiar Letters, vol. ii. p. 121. CHAPTER III. RETREATS. Seeking retirement — Desertum and Dysart — Ascetic life in Egypt — Traces in Ireland and Scotland — Disert-na-nespoic — Deserts and monasteries — St Fergnous — St Bee an — Disert-Chiamin — lona topography — Larger liberty — Hermit of Cape Malea — Influence of the sea — Voyages of Celtic missionaries — Desert in the sea — St Bait an — St Cormaci — St Brandon — Culbrandon — Traces of Desertum in South and North Britain — St Congan — St Serfs Cave — Caves and recluses — St David's Cave at JVeem — Other examples — Pittennveem — Hermits — Hermetiscroft — Hermitage Castle — St Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage — Elian- Voiv. Withdrawal to solitary places for purposes of devotion was a characteristic of our early Scottish saints. They sought a home in some inland glen, in some cave within hearing of the sea, or on some wind-swept island where they could meditate without distraction on higher things. Such a retreat was known by the Latin name desertum. In the Celtic vernacular this name was transformed into Dysart, with varying spellings. Regarding the word, Dr Joyce remarks : " It is generally used in an ecclesiastical sense to denote a hermitage, such secluded spots as the early Irish saints loved to select for their little dwellings ; and it was afterwards applied to churches erected in those places. Its most usual modern forms are Desert, Disert, Dysart, and Dysert."^ Who were the pioneers of the anchoritic life in the early Church ? To answer this question we have to look to Egypt, where, in the latter half of the third century, Paul the Hermit, and Anthony, the friend of Athanasius, ' Irish Place-Names, p. 113. RETREATS. 37 sought to teach by example the advantages of withdrawing from the world. Paul made a cavern his home beneath the shade of a palm-tree, which furnished him with food and clothing. Anthony sold his possessions when twenty years of age, and retired into the desert. At thirty-five he crossed the Nile, and retreated into still more remote soli- tudes. There he spent twenty years in a ruined castle, where he was visited by multitudes of disciples, anxious, like himself, to lead an ascetic life.^ "The struggles of these athletes of penitence," to use Montalembert's phrase, produced a marvellous effect on the dwellers in the Nile valley, and within a short time a life of sohtude came to be eagerly sought after. Rumours regarding its advantages began to spread westwards, and before long a custom that had taken root in Africa was transplanted to Europe. We find unmistakable traces of it in Ireland at a comparatively early date, and in Scotland somewhat later. Life in a desert, in the technical sense of the term, was not necessarily an utterly lonely life. The solitude was to be in the heart of the hermit if not in his environment, though it was usually there also. When St Bridget wished to pro- cure a bishop for her monastery at Kildare she sent for a holy man — Condlaed by name — who left his desert to fulfil her behest. Several bishops in Ireland frequently had a retreat in common, as the name Disert-na-nespoic — i.e., the Desert of the Bishops — indicates, ^ngus the Culdee refers to 141 places in Ireland, each of them tenanted by seven bishops.^ Deserts were often connected with monasteries, and af- forded the more devotional of their inmates a quiet place for meditation. At Derry, in Ireland, a desert was attached to the monastery. At Kells there was a retreat for wander- ing pilgrims known as Disert-Columcille, Kells having been one of St Columba's foundations.^ As Bishop Reeves remarks, "Those who desired to follow a more ascetic hfe than that which the society afforded to its ordinary members, withdrew to a solitary place in the neighbourhood of the monastery, where they enjoyed undisturbed medita- 1 Montalembert's Monks of the West, pp. 303-306. 2 Todd's St Patrick, pp. 12, 32, 35. ^ Adamnan, Pref., p. cxxv. 38 RETREATS. tion without breaking the fraternal bond."^ The desert was thus affiliated to the monastery. In Egypt the anchor- itic life developed into the cenobitic ; and it is interesting to note this tendency in the Celtic monasteries towards a return to the original form. St Fergnous, who was in Ireland when St Columba died, retired to Eilean-na-naoimh, where he spent the rest of his life, partly under conventual rule and partly as a solitary in a hermitage. St Becan, who died about 677, left Ireland, his native land, for lona, and there spent several years as a hermit, while Segenius, his uncle, was abbot of the monastery.^ Cumine the Fair, a later abbot and one of the biographers of Columba, was the founder of a church in Ireland in the west of Leinster, named after him Disert-Chiamin.* The topography of lona bears witness to the existence of a desert there. Thus we find, in the low ground at some distance to the north- east of the cathedral, Cladhan-diseart — i.e., the Graveyard of the Desert ; and to the south-east of the graveyard the small bay known as Port-an-diseart.* There seems to have been an official appointed to attend to this desert, for in the year 1164 we hear of MacGilladuff being president of the desert.^ In the ' Annals of Ulster ' he is called " Dis- ertach." Another name for him was " Cennan Disirt " — i.e., Superior of the Hermitage. Towards the north of lona are the traces of a circular building called Cabhan Culdich, signifying "the retreat of the Culdees."^ In 1795 it was described as " the foundation of a small circular house upon a reclining plain. From the door of the house a walk ascends to a small hillock, with the remains of a wall upon each side of the walk, which grows wider to the hillock. There are evident traces of the walls of the walk taking a circuit round, and enclosing the hillock." ^ Dr Reeves says : " The foundation is not quite circular, but measures about 16 feet by 14."^ The more daring spirits among the early saints were not content with a place of retirement near a monastery. They 1 Adamnan, Intro., p. cxxiv. " Kal., p. 277. » Ibid., p. 316. ■" Adamnan, p. 136. » Hadden and Stubbs, vol. ii., Part I., p. 235. « O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 303. ' O. S. A., vol. xiv. p. 200. 8 Adamnan, p. 139. RETREATS. 39 went farther afield ; but it is not to be inferred that they did this for the sake of gaining a reputation for greater sanctity, though, as a matter of fact, such was often the effect. We have rather to look for an explanation in a desire for contact with new scenes and in a craving for a larger liberty than could be enjoyed under monastic rule. In our own days one sees what a regard is sometimes had for those who withdraw from the midst of men. The late Dean Church mentions the case of the hermit of Cape Malea, who in modern times was held in much reverence by the Greek sailors voyaging past his cell.^ Even more in ancient times must special sanctity have attached to those who, for the sake of devotion, turned their steps into the lonely fastnesses of nature. The sea, with its changes and mystery, appealed to the imagination of the Celt more than to that of the Norseman, who regarded it rather from a practical point of view. Many a hide-covered currach was launched on its waters, freighted with men anxious to find what lay in the beyond. In the early centuries of Christianity in Scotland the dis- covery of what was known as "a desert in the sea" was an object of ambition. Thus we find Adamnan, in his ' Vita Sancti Columbs,' alluding to the voyage of a certain man called Baitan, who with others went in search of " a desert in the sea" (in oceano desertum). Before setting out he asked St Columba for his blessing. The latter prophesied that Baitan would not be buried in the desert in the ocean whither he was bound, but in a place where a woman would drive sheep over his grave, a forecast said to have been verified. About the same time St Cormack, Abbot of Durrow, sought a retreat in the ocean. So devoted was he to the quest that he became known as " Cormac Leir" — i.e., Cormac of the Sea. Thrice he sailed in search of a desert, and thrice he failed to find one. The cause of his failure is not quite evident. Probably he did not feel in- clined to settle down, even after he found a suitable spot. Adamnan gives, as the reason why he did not succeed in his second attempt, the fact that he had taken with him as a 1 Church's Life and Letters, p. 76. 40 RETREATS. companion one under monastic rule without the sanction of his superior; but we have probably to look elsewhere for the real reason. There is no doubt that Cormack had a considerable choice of retreats, for he found his way to Orkney and must have sighted many of the Western Isles.^ None of the saints devoted to a seafaring life was so famous as St Brandan or Brendan, founder of the monastery of Clonfert in Galway. He is said to have voyaged for seven years in search of the land of promise of the saints. Dr Skene observes : " The narrative of his seven years' voyage became one of the most popular tales of the Middle Ages, and numerous editions exist of it."^ What has been picturesquely styled "the Christian Odyssey" by the Rev. Dr J. K. Hewison is full of fable ; but there is no doubt that its hero visited many an island in the Hebridean seas. The saint died in 577. The sea-foam must have acted on him as a tonic, for he had then reached the advanced age of ninety -five. St Brandan may have had more than one desert in the sea, but Culbrandon, an island in the Garve- loch group, tells us that he had there found a retreat for a shorter or longer time, the name signifying " the corner or retreat of St Brandon," from Gaelic cut!, corner or recess. Culbrandon, along with the neighbouring Eileann na Naoimh, was granted in 1630 by Andrew, Bishop of Raphoe and Prior of Oransay, to John Campbell, rector of Craig- ness.^ To certain of these deserts in the ocean Dr James Mackinnon's remark is applicable. "The heaps of loose stones on such remote islands as North Rona in the North Atlantic, far out of reach of human dwelling, which, when examined, were found to be the remains of some hermit cell, ' presenting the earliest type of Christian construction remaining in Scotland,' still testify to the mistaken but adamantine piety that braved the tempests of the open ocean and courted the isolation of some wild inhospitable rock."* Let us turn now to the mainland of Britain to discover what traces of the Latin descrtum are to be found in its topography. In South Britain Chalmers enumerates the 1 Adamnan, pp. n, 252, 71. ^ Celt. Scot,, vol. ii. p. 76. » O. P S., vol. ii. p. 279. ■» Culture in Early Scotland, p. 164. RETREATS. 41 following : " Dysart Church in Radnor, Dyserth Castle in Flint, Dyserth in Montgomery, Dysart in Brecknock, and Dysard in Cornwall." ^ There seems to have been at one time no lack of retreats in Wales, if we may judge from a passage in the life of St Cadoc in Rees's ' Cambro-British Saints,'^ where we read that "Saint Cadoc, hearing that there were many places which were solitary and suitable for hermits, visited them, that he might see, and in them he remained a short space of time, but left them after the departure of two of his clergy." North Britain has also its traces of the desertum. In the ' Breviary of Aberdeen ' St Mund is described as "Abbot of Kilmund and Dissert"; but the latter cannot now be identified.^ There are others we can be sure about. One may note that all these occur in the middle region of Scotland — viz., in the counties of Perth, Forfar, Argyll, and Fife. In the ' Registrum Magni Sigilli Regum Scotorum ' * is a Latin charter of date 1611 mentioning the lands of Disert near Pitlochry forming part of the barony of Faschailyie, now Faskally. To this Heron, writing at the end of the eighteenth century, thus refers : " The fine situation of one gentleman's house on the north- eastern bank of the Tummel struck me particularly. Its name I learned to be Dysart, and that its proprietor was a Mr Butter. This house stands close upon the bank of the river, in a situation where the windings of the hills leave a small circular plain, beautifully level and verdant. Through this plain the river meanders in a fine waving Hne. Mr B.'s house stands on the eastern division of this little plain. It is surrounded on all hands with thick wood. Indeed I could not help thinking that the pines which concealed it from the highway were too thick, and seemed to hide this sweet spot with a degree of invidious jealousy from the gaze of the traveller." ^ Heron apparently did not inquire into the origin of the name. In 1639 we read of a Dysart lying in the barony of Forgund (Long- forgan). Another Perthshire example is referred to in a charter of 21st October 1685, in which John Halden 1 Caledonia, vol. i. p. 53. ^ P. 361- ' ^al., p. 416. * R. M. S., 1546-80, p. 589. 5 Journey, vol. i. p. 221. 42 RETREATS, of Gleneagles, heir -male of Kentigern Halden of Glen- eagles, is retoured in various lands within the shire of Perth, including a portion of the barony of Dysart, de- scribed as " the half of the villa and lands of Winchelstoun, Strathore, and Blair, with the half of the lands called Souttarlands in Easter Straithore."^ In Forfarshire there is Dysart, once a parish, but annexed first to Brechin and then to Maryton. The latter annexation occurred in 1649. The Barony of Dysart was composed of the lands of Meikle Dysert and Little Dysert. These lands were erected into a free barony in 1509-10 by James IV. in favour of John Melville and his heirs.^ Jervise says: "Though the very site of the old place of worship at Dysart is now unknown, the church of Dyserth is mentioned in an early charter of Malcolm the Maiden. Along with its teinds and the lands of Little Dysart, the kirk belonged to the Priory of Rostinoth. Down to about the last half of the seventeenth century, when Over and Nether Dysart were 'annexed to the kirk of Mariton,' the inhabitants of Dysart, although about eight miles distant, were bound to communicate at 'the kirk of Brechin,' 'quhilk (it is added) was thair paroche kirk.' This arrangement had probably arisen from the fact that the lands of Dysart were held under the superiority of, and belonged to, the Cathedral of Brechin. On the abolition of Papacy, the teinds of Over and Nether Dysart were given by the king to assist in educating poor deserving youths who chose the Church as a profession." ^ Nothing is known regarding the hermits who found a retreat in the places just mentioned, but in the case of Dalmally, anciently called " Dysart or Clachandysert," it is otherwise ; for we have reason to believe that St Congan, brother of St Kentigern and uncle of St Fillan, settled there, probably for a considerable time. The district round the lower waters of Loch Awe, forming the united parishes of Glenorchy and Inishail where Dalmally is situated, had him as its patron saint. A spring near the village was dedicated to him, and long enjoyed a reputation for healing. ' Retour (940), Perth. » R. M. S., 1424-1513, p. 732. " Epitaphs and Inscriptions, vol. i. p. 237. RETREATS. 43 A writer in 'The Highland Monthly '^ mentions the follow- ing fact : " During the latter part of the last [i.e., the eighteenth] century an old man lived in a small cottage close to the spring, subsisting chiefly on the small gratuities given him by charitable passers-by to whom he offered a drink of the water. He lived alone, and at a very advanced age was found dead in his hut, which he had decorated with fragments of coffins procured from the neighbouring churchyard." This old man had his desertum in modern times, as St Congan had in ancient times. It is interesting to note that Dalmally is still called by the Highlanders " Clachan-an-diseart." One of the annual fairs of the parish was associated with St Congan. Perhaps the best known survival of desertum is to be found in the name of the parish and burgh of Dysart on the south coast of Fife. The desertum there was the retreat of St Serf, a cave still pointed out in Dysart House grounds, where, according to tradition, the saint had a discussion with the devil on certain points of theology. It is in reference to this discussion that Andrew of Wyntoun thus writes : — " Quhill Saynt Serffe in till a stede Lay efftyre Maytynis in hys bede, The Devill come, in full intent, For till fand hym wyth argument. And sayd, ' Saynt Serff, be thi werk I ken thou art a connand clerk.' Saynt Serff sayd, ' Gyve I swa be, Foule wreche, quhat is that for the ? ' " The devil failed to have the last word in the discussion. " Saynct Serff sayd, ' Thow wrech ga Fra this stede, and noy na ma In to this stede, I byd th^.' Suddanly theyne passyd he ; Fra that stede he held hym away. And nevyr wes sene thare till this day." * A little below the cave is the ancient church of St Serf, consecrated in 1245. Its ruins consist of the south-west tower, west gable, south-west porch, part of the south aisle, 1 Nov. 1890, p. 363. ^ Orygrynale Cronykil of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 41- 44 RETREATS. and several scattered piers.^ In 1250 Dysart appeared as "Dishard," and as "Deserta" in George Buchanan, circa 1530. ^ The connection of St Serf with the cave at Dysart is but one out of many examples of the use of caves by early recluses. Many of these caves still bear the names of their ancient occupants. Most of them are to be found along our coasts, usually within sight of the sea ; but some are quite inland. At Weem in Perthshire is (or rather was, for the greater part of it has fallen down) a cave associated with St David Menzies, a local laird who became a recluse. The parish indeed derived its name from this cave, a cave in Gaelic being uaimh, in Middle Irish uaim.^ St David is said to have had a chapel on a neighbouring shelf of rock, called in consequence Craig-an-t'shapail, or the Chapel Rock. At the cave is a spring, till lately, and probably even yet, fre- quented as a wishing-well. St David's father was Sir Robert Menzies, slain at the battle of Harlaw in 1411. He himself was born in 1377, and is said to have been one of the hostages for the release of James I. He entered the Church, and was for several years Master of St Leonard's Hospital at Lanark. He was afterwards a monk in Melrose Abbey, and died in 1449.* Cill Daidh is an old burying-ground in Weem parish. The fair known as Feil Daidh was held in the same parish till transferred to Kenmore.^ These are con- nected by Mr D. P. Menzies with St David Menzies, but they probably commemorate St David of Wales.® It is significant that Feil Daidh was held in March, the Welsh saint's festival falling on the first of that month. There is a cave named after St Fergus in Glamis parish, Forfarshire, where that saint ended a wandering life, probably about the middle of the eighth century.' The ■ J. R. Walker's Pre-Reformation Churches in Fifeshire. '^ Scottish Places-Names, p. ii6. ■' Macbain's Gaelic Dictionary, s.v. "Uaimh." * D. P. Menzies, Red and White Book of Menzies, pp. 100-114. » N. S. A., Perth, p. 709. " "About a mile from Finlarig, close to Loch Tay, is another ancient burying-ground, Clath-Math-Davee, believed to recall St David of Wales." — Campbell's ' Book of Garth and Fortingall,' p. 69. ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 232. RETREATS. 45 church of Glamis was dedicated to St Fergus, and, according to Jervise, is said to have been cruciform in shape. The only part remaining is the south transept, which is in the Second Pointed style of architecture.^ A spring "in a romantic spot on the west side of the burn of Glamis, to the north-east of the church," still bears the saint's name. Nearly a century after St Fergus, St Gervadius flourished in the province of Moray. Under the form of Gerardine his name was connected with a cave in Drainie parish, thus described in the N. S. A.:^ " Gerardin's cave, in Elgin charters denominated Holyman Head, probably the abode of a hermit, was about five feet square. It was ornamented with a Gothic door and window, and commanded a long but solitary prospect of the eastern coast. The Gothic window and door were demolished about sixty years ago by a drunken sailor, and the whole cave has since been scooped out by quarriers." Gervadius extended his influence to the Buchan district, for he had an oratory and a stone bed at Kenedor, now King Edward.^ Margaret, queen and saint, in connection with her frequent devotions, found retirement at Dunfermhne in a cave still bearing her name. "This cave," observes Chalmers in his 'History of Dunfermline,'* "is situated at a short distance north from the Tower Hill, and from the mound crossing the ravine on which part of the town stands. It consists of an open apartment in the solid rock, 6 feet 9 inches in height, 8 feet 6 inches in width, and 11 feet 9 inches in depth — i.e., from the mouth to the back or longest side, while on the shortest side it is only 8 feet 3 inches." Tradition says that about the year 1700 a stone table or bench was visible, having on it something like a crucifix ; but when the rubbish was removed from the cave in 1877 two stone benches without sculpturing of any kind were brought to light.^ Of a different character is the cave-chapel at Cove on Loch Caolisport in South Knapdale, said by tradition to have been St Columba's first church in Scotland before he settled in lona. In the interior is an altar cut in the rock, 1 Antiquities of Glamis, p. 5. 2 Elgin, p. 149- ' Kal., p. 354- ' P- ^S- = Henderson's Annals of Dunfermline, p. 19, and Appendix, p. 715. 46 RETREATS. together with a font ; while above the altar is a cross " cut on the solid rock by no unmasterly hand."^ On the coast of Ardnamurchan is another cave associated with St Columba. Tradition says that the saint found a company of freebooters within its recesses. He preached to them and persuaded them to be baptised, the water being supplied from a natural basin within the cave, which was filled by a drip from the roof. In later times the cave was resorted to by health-seekers who left an offering beside the basin.^ Another Argyllshire retreat is St Kieran's Cave, on the east coast of Kintyre, some three or four miles from Campbeltown. After alluding to Kilchiaran on the south side of Campbeltown Loch, Muir observes : " Close by the shore, two or three miles farther away, and only reachable at ebb, is a more steadfast memorial of Kintyre's primitive apostle — to wit, a deep cave in the face of a steep hill, called Ciaran's Cove, in which, according to local teUing, the saint housed himself for a time after his arrival firom Innisfail. The missionary's first look of his dwelling must have been not very comforting, though it is hard to say whether one in any way much more refined could have been found along the whole length of the peninsula in the sixth century. At its mouth the cave is of considerable width, but towards its upper extremity straitens to a mere crevice or rent."^ Pennant, who visited the spot in 1772, says of the cave : It is "in form of a cross, with three fine Gothic porticoes for entrances ; . . . had formerly a wall at the entrance, a second about the middle, and a third far up, forming different apartments. On the floor is the capital of a cross and a round basin cut out of the rock, full of fine water, the beverage of the saint in old times, and of sailors in the present, who often land to dress their victuals beneath this shelter."^ The saint in question was an Irishman, a pupil of St Finnan of Clonard, and the founder of the Abbey of Clonmacnoise. He died in the year 548 at the age of thirty-three. His austerities were such that, according to ' The Book of Lismore,' ^ " he never ate bread until a third ' N. S. A., Argyll, p. 263. '' Folk-Lore and Legends, Scotland, p. 84. ^ Eccles. Notes, p. 265. * Tour, p. 195. » p. 279. RETREATS. 47 of it was sand. He never slept until his side touched the bare mould. Under his head there was usually nought save a stone for a pillow." Some clay from his grave is said to have been thrown by St Columba into the whirlpool of Corryvreckan to allay the violence of the sea, the result being entirely satisfactory. Kieran's name appears under various forms — e.g., Queranus, Kyranus, Ciaran, Querdon, and Jergon. In Cornwall he is known as St Piran.^ Guarding Lamlash Bay, where Haco's shattered ships sought refuge after the battle of Largs in 1263, lies Holy Island, known to the Norsemen as Melansay. In the cliff on the west coast of the island is St Molios' Cave, some twenty-five or thirty feet above the present level of the beach. Here the saint, who was of Irish origin, is believed to have led the life of a hermit prior to visiting Rome about the year 630. In the cave is a shelf of rock known as his " Bed " ; while below, on the shore, " a large block of sand- stone, cut perfectly flat on the top, and surrounded with a series of artificial recesses or seats, bears the name of the Saint's Chair." ^ The cave is of special interest to arch- aeologists on account of its Runic inscriptions, alluded to by Sir Daniel Wilson in his ' Prehistoric Annals of Scot- land.' An Arran tradition points to the graveyard of Shiskin as the place of sepulture of St Molios. Near its centre lay till lately a stone with the sculptured image of an ecclesiastic having a chalice in his hand and a pastoral staff by his side, the figure being locally believed to repre- sent St Molios.^ Professor Mackinnon mentions that Holy Island "was of old Eilean Molaisi, a name preserved in a very disguised form in Lamlash. Fordun gives Almeslache, which suggests the intermediate steps : Eilean Molaisi, Elmoldisi, Lemolash, Lamlash, now transferred from the island to the favourite watering village ashore."* St Medan's Cave in Wigtownshire is situated in Kirk- maiden parish on the western shore of Luce Bay, half-way between Portankill and Tarbet. A chapel, now greatly ruinous, was built on to the cave. Sir Herbert E. Maxwell ^ Kal., p. 435. ^ Wilson's Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 278. ' M 'Arthur's Antiquities of Arran, p. 188. * Scotsman, Article No. ix. 48 RETREATS. regards this chapel "as by very much the earliest piece of ecclesiastical architecture remaining in Galloway," and thinks that "the origin of the sacred regard for St Medan's cave must be taken as coeval with that of St Ninian, namely, from the early years of the fifth century." ^ Dr Skene identifies Medan with St Monenna, otherwise Edana, said to have founded churches at Edinburgh, Stirling, and Longforgan, as well as in Galloway.^ There is, however, some uncertainty as to her date. One version of her story places her death in 519. According to the ' Aberdeen Breviary,' she left her home in Ireland to escape from the attentions of a certain noble knight. Accompanied by two handmaidens, she crossed to the Rhinns of Galloway, but the knight followed her. When she saw him she sought refuge along with her maidens on a rock in the sea. The rock became a boat, and miraculously conveyed her over the water to Fames, now part of Glasserton parish. The knight once more appeared. This time St Medan sought refuge amid the branches of a tree, and from their shelter asked her lover what it was that made him follow her so persistently. " Your face and eyes," replied the knight. Thereupon the saint plucked out her eyes, and threw them down to her lover, who was so filled with grief and penitence that he at once departed.^ The parish church of Burton- on-Trent in Staffordshire was under the patronage of St Mary and St Modwena. Camden says the Trent almost surrounds " Burton, a town famous for an antient mon- astery founded by Ulfric Spot, earl of Mercia, and once remarkable for the retreat of Modwena, or Mowenna, an Irishwoman. In this monastery Modwena, whose sanctity was renowned in these parts, was buried, with these lines on her tomb by way of epitaph." Camden gives the lines, which are in Latin ; but the following translation is added : — " Ireland gave Modwen birth, England a grave, As Scotland death, and God her soul shall save, 1 P. S. A. Scot., vol. XX. p. 89. 2 Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 37. ' Vide "Notice of the Excavation of St Medan's Cave and Chapel," by Dr R. Trotter, with Notes by Sir H. E. Maxwell, Bart., in ' P. S. A. Scot.,' vol. XX. pp. 76-90 ; and Rev. Adam Philip's ' Parish of Long-forgan,' pp. 69-72. RETREATS. 49 The first land life, the second death did give, The third in earth her earthly part receive ; Lanfortin takes whom Connel's country owns, And happy Burton holds the virgin's bones." ^ An ancient ecclesiastical site at Burton is still known as St Modwena's garden. Another noted Galloway retreat is the cave in Glasserton parish connected from of old with the name of St Ninian. Physgill Glen is one of the most attractive spots in the neighbourhood of Whithorn. In late spring it is bright with gorse, and tuneful with birds. One can picture the figure of the saint going and coming between his Candida Casa at Whithorn and his cave on the shore about a furlong from the foot of the glen. The cave is in the face of the cliff, with a southern exposure. It is about 27 feet long, 6 broad, and 15 or so high. At present it is some 25 feet above high-water mark, but in a bygone geological age the sea must have dashed into it. In 1884 the cave was ex- amined with much care under the supervision of Sir Herbert E. Maxwell and the late Dr Cochran-Patrick. A large quantity of rubbish was removed, and several stones with incised crosses were brought to light, together with a hol- low font-like stone having a carefully constructed drain to carry off the surplus water. A pavement, too, was dis- covered strewn with wood, ashes, bones, and shells, while a mutilated inscription with its " Sanct Ni " told of a name held in reverence from the Solway Firth to the Isles of Shetland.2 St Baldred, the apostle of East Lothian, flourished in the latter half of the sixth century and the beginning of the seventh. He was so much venerated that after his death the churches of Aldham, Prestonkirk, and Tyning- hame sought each to possess his relics. According to Bellenden and Major, his body was miraculously triplicated to satisfy the different claimants. A cleft in the rock at Whitberry Point, a little way north of the mouth of the Tyne, is styled St Baldred's Cradle. At its entrance towards the sea it is about a couple of yards wide, while 1 Britannia, vol. ii. p. 497. ' P- S. A. Scot., vol. xix. pp. 82-96. D 50 RETREATS. on either side the rock rises to a height of thirteen or fourteen feet. In stormy weather, when the tide is high, the sea bursts in with terrific force. A local tradition, referred to by Chalmers, says that the "Cradle" was rocked by the winds and the waves.^ There is nothing about the cleft to show that it was once the retreat of an anchorite ; but the name is interesting, and is doubtless very old.^ Near the " Pilgrim's Haven " in the Isle of May, and just below the garden-wall of the priory, is a small damp cave, known as the " Lady's Bed." As Mr Muir points out, it is traditionally associated with St Thenew, Kentigern's mother, who, according to the legend, "after being cast into the sea at Aberlady, was miraculously floated to the May, and thence in the same manner to Culross, where she was stranded and gave birth to the saint." ^ On the same island are still to be seen the ruins of the thirteenth century chapel, dedicated to St Adrian, a shrine popular in the Middle Ages as a place of pilgrimage. Adrian is said, in the ' Aberdeen Breviary,' to have been born in the province of Pannonia in Hungary, and to have come to the east of Scotland along with more than six thousand companions, including St Monan, who had a cave bearing his name at Inverry, now St Monans. They settled on the Isle of May, having expelled the demons and wild beasts infesting it, but were there martyred by the Danes. 875 is commonly assigned as the date of their martyrdom. Dr Skene has critically examined the story. St Adrian, he thinks, was an Irishman, not a Hungarian. Of Adrian and his followers he says : " They came just at the time when the so-called destruction of the Picts by Kenneth MacAlpin took place ; and they themselves perished by the Danes in the reign of his son Constantin. Of so remarkable an event, however, as the invasion of Fife by a body of six thousand and six Hungarians, history knows nothing."* St Adrian was associated with a cave on the coast of Fife, opposite the Isle of May. Wyntoun 1 Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 542, note. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxviii. pp. 78-83. ' Eccles. Notes, p. 294. * Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 313. RETREATS. S I says, after referring to the arrival of this saint and his company : — " Than Adriane wyth hys cumpany Togydder come tyl Caplawchy. Thare sum in to the He off May Chesyd to byde to thare enday. And sum off thame chesyd be northe In steddis sere the Wattyr off Forth." ' Dr Joseph Anderson observes : " Caplachie is now CaipHe, in the parish of Kilrenny ; and one of the caves of Caiplie, which has sculptures on its walls, is still known as the Chapel Cove. The cave is on Barnsmuir farm."^ A full description of the crosses on its walls is given by Dr Stuart, in his ' Sculptured Stones of Scotland.' * At Pittenween, underneath the ruined Priory, is a cave traditionally associated with St Adrian and St Fillan, but specially with the latter. The name Pittenweem, written Pit-ne-weme in a charter of King David I., is significant, for it means " the place of the cave," and shows that the cave in question was in ancient times regarded as a specially noteworthy feature in the district. A lane in the burgh near the priory is known as the Cove Wynd. The following account of the cave occurs in " Notes on the Structural Remains of the Priory of Pittenweem," by Mr W. F. Lyon, Architect : * " The cave, situated about sixty feet from the shore, the floor level being about sixteen feet above high tides, is hollowed out of a soft sandstone rock, which rises to a height of forty feet, and differs, at least in its original position, in no way from the many sea-washed caverns which are found all along this coast. Advantage has been taken of the soft nature of the rock to artificially enlarge the chambers at different periods. " The entrance is closed up by a well-built stone wall, with a doorway of dressed stones and a window over it, all apparently of late work. Much of the sides and roof close to this wall have fallen in. 1 Orygynale Cronykil of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 85. 2 Scotland in Early Christian Times, Second Series, p. 186. ' Vol. ii., Pref., pp. Ixxxviii-xc. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxvii. p. 79. 52 RETREATS, " The inside of the cave, at a distance of thirty-five feet from the entrance, is divided into an inner and outer chamber by another stone-built wall with a doorway. The outer chamber has been much increased in height and width by artificial means, and is spacious and lofty. The inner apartment bifurcates into two portions, the one right in front being evidently the original continuation of the outer cave, which runs on and dies naturally into the ground at about sixty-three feet from the intercepting wall, making the whole original cave about one hundred feet in length." Thirty feet above the cave, and communicating with it by a stair cut in the solid rock, is a vaulted chamber fifteen feet square, styled the Oratory of St Fillan. Its roof is three or four feet below the level of the garden above. The building, however, as Mr Lyon points out, is manifestly many centuries later in date than the time of the saint. Visitors to St Andrews can hardly fail to be impressed by the Tower of St Regains or Rule near the Cathedral, where beside the sea it has continued through the blasts of cent- uries to lift its lofty head. A less striking object associated with the name of the same saint is St Rule's Cave, in the face of the cliff underneath the Martyrs' Knowe. This cave, "Where good Saint Rule his holy lay, From midnight to the dawn of day, Sung to the billows' sound," was originally double, the outer apartment being circular with a diameter of about ten feet. On the eastern side an altar was cut in the solid rock, and opposite was the door leading into the inner apartment, — the " den," as Sir Walter Scott styles it in a note to the lines just quoted, " where the miserable ascetic, who inhabited this dwelling, probably slept." Dr D. Hay Fleming remarks : " St Rule's Cave can still be reached from below by a narrow ledge; but owing to the wasting away of the soft sandstone rock, it is now so openly exposed to view that it can be seen very well from the kitchen tower of the Castle." ^ At Kinkell, to the south of St Andrews, is a small cave with crosses on its ' Guide to St Andrews. RETREATS. S3 walls; but the retreat is associated with the name of no particular saint. Regarding another rock-shelter in Fife, Dr John Stuart remarks : " At Fifeness, a promontory which has been forti- fied by a strong wall called the Danes' Dyke carried across its neck, is a cave formed in a rock on the north side of the point. It is called Constantine's Cave, from a legend that the Scottish king of this name, after a defeat by the Danes, was carried by his captors to the cave and there put to death about the year 88i. It is of small dimensions and irregular shape, being about fifteen feet in depth and twelve in width. There are small crosses cut on the rock in all directions; some are on the wall on the right side of the entrance, both on the lower ledge of rock and on that above. On the last, about eight feet from the ground, are still to be seen six crosses cut in a broad shallow line, and with rough marks like those of the pickaxe : other crosses remain on a shelving slab on the south-west end. On a ledge in the roof of that end are six crosses, arranged in lines, four and two. On a lower ledge in that corner are six or seven crosses in a row. The rock is much worn and honey- combed, especially on the south side, but here also vestiges remain of small crosses all along the ledge overhead. The mouth of the cave was at one time closed by a wall, which has been entirely removed, and it is now open to the wasting effects of the east winds, which, with clouds of spray on their wings, beat with unbroken fury into this rude shelter of early devotion." ^ This Constantine was King of Scotland, third of the name, during whose reign a solemn assembly was held on the Mote Hill of Scone, for regulating the affairs of the Church. Instead of being killed by the Danes in 88i, as the legend states, he laid down his crown in his old age, and entered the monastery at St Andrews, where he died about the year 945.^ When discussing the symbolism of the early Scottish monuments, Dr Anderson observes : " It has to be remem- bered that there was a species of cave occupation which was essentially Christian in its origin and character, and 1 Sculptured Stones of Scotland, vol. ii., Pref., p. Ixxxviii. 2 Celt. Scot., vol. i. pp. 339-360. and Kal., p. 314. 54 RETREATS. the series of caves in which the symbols occur are quite evidently of this comparatively recent ecclesiastical oc- cupancy. It was a well-known custom of the Celtic saints to retire to such solitary retreats, which thus, from the sanctity of their traditional associations, became in later times places of pilgrimage, and in some cases, when the concourse of pilgrims on the saints' days was large, chapels were improvised for their devotions, or the cave itself was converted into a chapel." After mentioning certain caves traditionally inhabited by early saints, such as St Ninian's, St Medan's, &c., Dr Anderson continues : " They still bear the reputation of sanctity traditionally ascribed to their saintly occupants, and in many cases the sculpturings of a multitude of crosses and symbols on their walls bear witness to their continuous use for devotional purposes from a very early period. The recondite symbols found associated with crosses and other Christian symbols on the walls of these caves are the same as those on the monuments, and if there might be reason to refrain from assigning to them a def- initely Christian character and intention on the monuments, there can be no such reason when we find them on these caves, which practically were churches." ^ There was a hermit in Kilbucho parish, Peeblesshire, towards the end of the twelfth or beginning of the thirteenth century. Professor Cosmo Innes remarks : " Cospatrick, the hermit of Kylbeuhoc, is a witness, along with Gilbert the parson of Kilbeuhoc, to the perambulation of the marches of Stobo about the year 1200." ^ In the sixteenth century a hermit occupied a cell close to the Chapel of Loretto at Musselburgh. He is referred to in a rhyme by Alexander, Earl of Glencairn, intituled, " An Epistle directed from the Holy Hermite of Larites to his Brethren the gray-Friers." Knox, in his ' History of the Reformation,' quotes the rhyme, which thus begins : — " I, Thomas, Hermite in Larite, Saint Francis brother heartily greete." A few places derived their names from their connection ^ The Early Christian Monuments of Scotland, Part I., p. iii. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 178. RETREATS. 55 with some hermit or other whose own name may not now be remembered. Thus we find in 1665 a reference to a Hermit's Croft in the district of Menteith. We read that in that year James Edmondstone, heir of his father, John Edmondstone of Hermetis-Croft, was retoured in the lands called Hermitscroft and other adjacent lands belonging to the chapel of St Fillan near the castle of Doune.^ In Men- muir parish, Forfarshire, there was a hermitage belonging to St Mary's Chapel of the forest of Kilgary. Hugh Cumynth was the name of the hermit who dwelt there in the year 1454.^ We find a hermitage in the valley of the Tay alluded to as a boundary in a charter belonging to the early part of the thirteenth century, which informs us that David of Hay granted to the monks of Cupar one net upon the main water of Tay to fish with the same at their pleasure anjrwhere " between Lornyn and the Hermitage which Gillemichell, sometime Hermit, held ; with three acres of land lying next to the said Hermitage." ^ As we learn firom Jervise's ' Memorials of Angus and The Mearns,' * Lornie near Errol, here called Lornyn, was once a separate farm, but now forms part of the farm of Hill. Hermitage is no longer to be found as a name in the district. Who does not know of Hermitage Castle in Castletown parish, Roxburghshire, where, in 1342, Sir Alexander Ram- say of Dalhousie was starved to death by Sir William Douglas, "the Knight of Liddesdale"; and whither, in 1566, Queen Mary rode from Jedburgh to spend a couple of hours with the Earl of Bothwell, who lay wounded within its walls. The castle stands on Hermitage Water, about four miles above its junction with the Liddel. The stream intersects the north-west portion of the parish and has a course of ten miles before it falls into the Liddel. Sir William Eraser says: "Hermitage Castle stands in a position of great natural strength on the banks of the Hermitage Water, and it was further secured by a deep fosse which enclosed it on the east, west, and north, and also by extensive earthworks. Surrounded by wild morasses 1 Retours, Perth, No. 734, Jan. 27, 1665. 2 Eraser's History of the Camegies, vol. i., Pref., p. xvii. 3 Reg. of Cupar Abbey, vol. ii. p. 289. * Vol. ii. p. 196. 56 RETREATS. and mountains, the grim towers, with their few and narrow windows, and their walls pierced with loopholes, add addi- tional gloom to the desolate and cheerless region in which they stand. The interior of the castle is now a complete ruin." ' The castle was probably built in or about 1244 by Rannulph de Soulis, in whose family it remained till 1320. William of Douglas was captured by the English at the Battle of Durham in 1346. Cosmo Innes says : " In 1352 the Knight of Liddesdale, on his release from captivity and his engagement to serve the King of England against all his enemies except the Scots, had a grant from Edward III. of the ' border territory which he had formerly possessed, called the Ermytage and Lidesdale,' which Ralph de Nevyll was ordered to deliver to him."^ Close to the castle is the ruined chapel of Hermitage, standing in the midst of its graveyard. The old font is built into the graveyard walk* In 1594 the Lordship of Liddesdale came into the possession of Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, whose ancestor David, about one hundred and twenty-five years earlier, had obtained a gift of the governorship of Hermitage Castle. Since then the castle has been the property of the Buccleuch family.* Who the hermit was that gave name to river and castle we do not know, but the surroundings of his cell were without doubt eminently bleak. In mediaeval times the abodes of anchorites were much resorted to by pilgrims anxious to obtain benefits from their visits to such lonely spots. In a petition made by Bernard de Broquasio, knight of Henry, Duke of Lancaster, in 1355 to Pope Innocent VI., then at Avignon, we read : " Whereas, William the hermit, chaplain of St Leonard, Loffold, in Windsor forest, lives a solitary life, and serves God alone, and whereas a multitude of people flock to the chapel, the Pope is prayed to grant an indulgence to those who visit the said chapel yearly at Whitsuntide and the Assumption and give alms to the fabric." ^ The petition was granted for one year and forty days. ' Scotts of Buccleuch, vol. i., Pref., p. Iviii. = O. P. S., vol. i. p. 357. ' N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 443. •< Gaz., s.v. " Hermitage Castle." » Calendars of Papal Registers relating to Great Britain and Ireland (Petitions), vol. i, p. 270. RETREATS. 57 St Anthony of Egypt, already referred to in this chapter, had his name connected with a chapel and an adjoining hermitage on Arthur's Seat at Edinburgh, where their ruins are still to be seen close to a spring dedicated to the same saint. Grose says : " This was a chapel to an adjacent hermitage ; it stands on an elevated station in the Park of Holyrood House, on the north side of Arthur's seat ; and commands a view over the town of Leith, Frith of Forth, and the county of Fife. This situation was un- doubtedly chosen with an intention of attracting the notice of seamen coming up that Frith, who, in cases of danger, might be induced to make vows to its tutelar saint." ^ Grose thus describes the hermit's cell, supplying certain details from his imagination : "It was partly of masonry worked upon the natural rock. At the east end there are still two niches remaining ; in one of which formerly stood a skull, a book, an hour-glass, and a lamp, which, with a mat for a bed, made the general furniture of a hermitage." ^ Writing fifty years later. Sir Daniel Wilson observes : " All that now remains of the cell is a small recess, with a stone ledge constructed partly in the natural rock, which appears to have been the cupboard for storing the simple refresh- ments of the hermit of St Anthony."^ Stotherd observes: "The chapel and hermitage belonged to the preceptory of S. Antony in Leith, which was founded in 1435 by Robert Logan of Restalrig. It was possessed by canons of S. Augustin's Rule, whose church, cemetery, and gardens stood near the Kirkgate at the south-west end of S. Antony's Wynd."* This view connecting St Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage with St Anthony's Preceptory at Leith has long been popular. Mr F. R. Coles, however, points out that it rests on no documentary evidence. He thinks that the Chapel and Hermitage were probably de- pendent, not on the Leith Preceptory, but on the neighbour- ing Abbey of Holyrood.^ A curious trace of St Anthony's influence on local topography is thus referred to by Sir 1 The Antiquities of Scotland, vol. i. p. 40. " Ibid., p. 41. 2 Memorials of Edinburgh, p. 413. ■• Lectures on Relig-ious Antiquities of Edinburgh, Second Series, p. 208. ^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. XXX. pp. 225-247. S8 RETREATS, Daniel Wilson. "A piece of ground on the south slope of Arthur's Seat, known in last [i.e., the eighteenth] century by the odd name of Hermits and Termits, perpetuated, ac- cording to Lord Hailes, a manifest corruption of Eremita SanctcB Eremi, or, the Monks of St Anthony of Egypt." ^ On the beautifully wooded island of Elian-Vow in Loch Lomond, two and a half miles north-west of Inversnaid, is a ruined fortalice belonging to the Macfarlanes. Early in last century an ascetic of the Macfarlane clan took up his abode in a vault within the ruin, which in consequence became known in the district as the Hermit's Cave.^ As regards love of solitude, this dweller in the island-vault merely followed in the wake of those who, in earlier times, sought retirement in caves or in sea-deserts. ^ Reminiscences of Old Edinburgh, vol. ii. p. 49. ^ Gaz., s.v. "Elian-Vow." CHAPTER IV. CHURCH-FOUNDING. Introduction of Christianity — Roman military works — Candida Casa — St Ninian and St Martin — Whithorn — Roman and Scotic manner — Lann — Llan — Planmichel — Panbride — Pitlumbertie — Lhanbryd — Lathrisk — Lanark — Welsh dedications in Aberdeenshire — Lumphanan, i^c. — Landis — Long Newton, £s°f. — Cambuslang — Eaglais—Eccles — Glen- eagles — Shaneccles, Isfc. — Dalleagles and Eagle sjield — Eaglesham — Terregles, isfe. — Egilshay — Ecclejechan — Ecclesmachan — Ecclesmartine — Egilsmalye, l^c. — Ecclesiamagirdle — Lesmahagow — Ecclesgreig — St Ciric and King Girig. There is no doubt that Christianity reached North Britain during the Roman occupation, but we do not know pre- cisely at what date the doctrines of the new faith were first heard in our land. Archaeological research has thrown no light on the point. There are still to be seen the remains of military works constructed by Roman soldiers— e.g'., the Wall of Antonine stretching from Forth to Clyde, and the camps of Ardoch, Camelon, and Birrens. These camps were excavated by the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland within recent years, and many objects of antiquarian interest were found.^ But nothing suggestive of Christianity was discovered. The earliest Christian structure in Scotland of which we know anything was the church of Candida Casa at Whithorn in Wigtownshire, built by St Ninian, the son of a Christian prince ruling over a district beside the Solway. Bede says : "The Southern Picts had long before [Columba's time] for- ' At Birrens several pagan altars were unearthed, one of date correspond- ing to 159 A.D. — ' P. S. A. Scot.,' vol. XXX. pp. 81-199. 60 CHURCH-FOUNDING. saken the errors of idolatry and embraced the truth, by the preaching of Ninias, a most reverend bishop and holy man of the British nation, who had been regularly instructed at Rome in the faith and mysteries of the truth ; whose epis- copal see, named after St Martin the bishop, and famous for a stately church (wherein he and many other saints rest in the body), is still in existence among the English nation. The place is generally called the White House, because he there built a church of stone, which was not usual among the Britons." Ailred of Rievaulx, in Yorkshire, states that Ninian brought masons from Tours, and that, hearing of St Martin's death while Candida Casa was being built, he dedicated the church to his memory.^ This fixes approxi- mately the date, for St Martin died circa 397. Whithorn is the Old English hwitarn, and means the same as Candida casa— i.e., white house. Mr P. Macgregor Chalmers thinks that Candida Casa got its name not from the whiteness of its stone, but from the colour of the cement used in plastering its walls.^ In relation to these early times, building with stone is commonly described as the Roman manner of construction, in opposition to building with wood, known as the Scotic manner. Bede relates that Bishop Finan built a church in the Isle of Lindisfarne. " Nevertheless, after the manner of the Scots, he made it not of stone, but of hewn oak, and covered it with reeds." ^ This view regarding the difference of styles was largely true, but the distinction was not so radical as Bede thought. Dr Joseph Anderson puts the matter well when he says : " It does not by any means fol- low that because the Scotic mode of construction was usu- ally to build with wood, all stone churches must necessarily belong to a time when the use of wood had been given up. In the islands where there was no wood, stone must have been used to some extent even from the earliest times. Both in the Orkney and Shetland Isles, and throughout the Hebrides, the people were familiar with the construction of massive stone buildings long before the introduction of Christianity. In lona we must accept Adamnan's testi- ' Metcalfe's Ancient Lives of Scottisli Saints, p. 10. " Scots-Lore, p. 205. 8 Ecclesiastical History, lib. iii. cap. xxv. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 6l mony when he tells us that they brought the wood to build their cells from the mainland. But this does not oblige us to believe that they erected no stone constructions." ^ In Ireland — the ancient Scotia, whence the style reached Alban — the earliest churches were built usually of wood,^ sometimes of earth, but occasionally of stone. Warren remarks : " Stone buildings, though not the general rule, were by no means unknown throughout this early period. The remains of rude oratories of uncemented stone still survive in Ireland, either like the oratory of Gallerus, of a date antecedent to the mission of St Patrick, or, like that of Crumtherim, coeval with him, or, as in the case of the church of St Kienan, built by his disciples."^ The results of Petrie's researches point to the same conclusion. He says : " It is by no means my wish to deny that the houses built by the Scotic race in Ireland were usually of wood, or that very many of the churches erected by that people im- mediately after their conversion to Christianity were not of the same perishable material. The earlier colonists were accustomed to build, not only their fortresses, but even their dome-roofed houses and sepulchres, of stone without cement. This custom, as applied to their forts and houses, was con- tinued in those parts of Ireland in which those ancient settlers remained even after the introduction of Christi- anity, and was adopted by the Christians in their religious structures."* We shall see later that kil and kirk occur often in Scottish topography as synonyms for church. In the present chapter it is proposed to consider other two words having a similar meaning — viz., lann and eccles. The former, under various spellings, occurs in England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales ; but most frequently in Wales, where there are some 450 places given in the Clergy List having the prefix llan,^ each 1 Scotland in Early Christian Times, First Series, p. 125, note. 2 "An eleventh-century wooden church is still to be seen in England at Greensted in Essex."— Warren's ' Liturgry and Ritual of the Celtic Church,' p. 88, note. ' Liturgy and Ritual of the Celtic Church, p. 88. ■* Ecclesiastical Architecture of Ireland, second edition, p. 127. * In Brittany we find Ian as the cognate form. 62 CHURCH-FOUNDING. with a church.^ Llan in Wales is sometimes found associated otherwise than with the name of the patron saint of the parish, as in Llanaber, the church of the confluence, and Llangoed, the church of the wood ; but as a rule it is pre- fixed to the name of some saint, as in Llanasa, the church of St Asaph, and Llanfechan, the church of St Fechan. In Richards' ' Welsh-English Dictionary,' llan is defined as area, yard, a church. In connection with the corresponding Irish form Dr Joyce observes : " Lawn, in old Irish land, means a house or church. The word is Irish, but in its ecclesiastical application it was borrowed from the Welsh, and was introduced into Ireland at a very early age : when it means simply ' house,' it is no doubt purely Irish, and not a loan word." ^ Dr Joyce had found no example of the word in the south of Ireland. Mr A. W. Moore says that lann occurs only once as a prefix in the Isle of Man, with the meaning probably of "enclosure."* There is some doubt as to the origin of the word under consideration. Mr Flavell Edmunds suggested that llan meant " originally any enclosure ; afterwards a heathen sacred enclosure, and thence a church."* Dr Skene con- nects llan with Latin planum.^ He remarks : " Planum becomes in Celtic llan, the old meaning of which was a fertile spot, as well as a church. In the Inquisition, in the reign of David I.,* into the possessions of the See of Glasgow, we find the word in its oldest form in the name Planmichael, now Carmichael."^ Dr Skene also connects the prefix pan- with planum — e.g., Panbride in Forfarshire, which he interprets as the church of St Bridget. Canon Isaac Taylor holds that llan is the same word as the Teutonic land. We may safely conclude with Sir Herbert Maxwell, that " if the Latin planum, level ground, has no affinity to the Gaelic lann, ground, Welsh llan, an enclosure, and • Arch. Camb., vol. xii. p. 133. " Irish Place-Names, p. 310. ' Surnames and Place-Names of the Isle of Man, p. 155. * Traces of History in the Names of Places, p. 243. " The Spanish llano, a level field, undoubtedly comes from the Latin planum. " When the inquest was made David wras Earl of Cumbria, not King of Scotland. ' The Four Ancient Books of Wales, vol. i. p. 159. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 63 specially a church, at all events they run very closely together." ^ With regard to Panbride just mentioned, Jervise remarks : " The church of Panbryd was given to the Abbey of Arbroath by William the Lion, and when John of Morham obtained a grant of the lands of Panbride from that monarch about 1214, he confirmed the royal gift." ^ Lan and hride may possibly be associated in the name of Pitlumbertie, thus explained by Mr W. J. N. Liddall : Pette + lann-|-Brigit = portion of church of St Bride.^ In Elginshire is the parish of St Andrews- Lhanbryd, and in it is the village of Lhanbryd, three and a half miles east of Elgin. The ancient church of St Brigit is gone, but its graveyard is still to be seen in the village whose name is a reminder of the pre-Reforma- tion dedication. Kettle parish, Fife, was anciently called Lathrisk. It was so named till about 1636, when the church was removed to the village of Kettle. There is reason to believe that Lathrisk signifies the church of Athernaise or Ethernase, to whom, in conjunction with St John the Evangehst, its church was dedicated in 1243 by Bishop David de Bernham. The first syllable is a shortened form of lann. The saint's day in the calendar is the 22nd of December. His name occurs in the ' Aberdeen Breviary ' under that date, but there are no lections supply- ing biographical details. He is the same as lotharnaise mentioned in the ' Martyrology of Donegal ' in connection with the church of Claonadh in Leinster, identified by Bishop Forbes with Clane in the county of Kildare. " Lanark," in the Cymric kingdom of Strathclyde, does not contain llan, a church, but is merely an altered form of the Welsh llanerch, " a glade " or " clearing in a forest." Bishop Forbes and Dr Skene agree in thinking that we have traces of Welsh influence in Aberdeenshire in relation to church dedications. The latter remarks : " In the upper valley of the Dee, on the north side of the river, we find a group of dedications which must have proceeded from a Welsh source. These are Glengairden, dedicated to Mungo ^ Scottish Land-Names, p. 49. 2 Epitaphs and Inscriptions, vol. ii. p. 309. ' Place-Naraes of Fife and Kinross. 64 CHURCH-FOUNDING. or Kentigern ; Migvie and Lumphanan, to Finan, the latter name being a corruption of Llanffinan ; and Midmar, dedi- cated to Nidan ; while in the island of Anglesea we likewise find two adjacent parishes called Llanffinan and Llan- nidan."! The fact that St Vincent was reckoned the tutelar of Lumphanan prior to the Reformation does not disprove the view that the name means the church of Finan, for we occasionally find a dedication to one saint superseded by a dedication to another. In Fife is Lumphinnans, which is merely a variant of Lumphanan. In New Abbey parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, a quarter of a mile to the north-east of Sweetheart Abbey, are the remains of Abbot's Tower, at a spot known as Landis. As the place was church property, one is tempted to look for some form of laji in the name ; but the etymology is doubt- ful. Lanfine, in Galston parish, probably embodies Gaelic linne, a pool.^ Sir Herbert Maxwell regards long in certain place-names as an alternative form of llan. He remarks : " The special meaning of the Welsh llan, a church, was forgotten, and it has been altered in our maps to Long Newton, Long Niddrie, and Longformacus, because the map-makers thought they had in llan the vulgar Scots ' lang ' for 'long.'"^ He adds: "Close to Kirkmaiden, in the Machars of Wigtownshire, is a field called Long Maidens — that is, lann Medainn, St Medana's church. Langbfed- holm, near Moffat, is lann Bedleim, church of Bethlehem." Longforgan in Perthshire was anciently written lan-fortin, the prefix in all probability pointing to the church founded there by St Medana. Langmorn at Elgin, otherwise Ihan- Morgan, means Morgan's church. Shaw says : " At Lang- morn was a free chapel which had its own minister, probably till 1613, when a second minister or a vicar was settled in the parish."* In like manner may not Cambuslang on the Clyde be merely an altered form of llan ? Cambus is the Gaelic for a bend, and the name, partly Gaelic and partly Cymric, would thus mean the bend of, or at, the church. A church was founded at Cambuslang at an early 1 Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 193. - Appendix, D. ' Scottish Land-Names, p. 49. * Province of Moray, p. 341. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 65 date under the dedication of St Cadoc, a missionary from Wales. Welsh influence, indeed, was distinct in the district ; for a spring in Cambusnethan parish, a little higher up the Clyde, was named after St Winifred,^ whose wonder-working well at Holywell in Flintshire still attracts many a pilgrim. We come now to consider the place-names connected with the Gaelic eaglais, a church, which is merely an altered form oi ecclesia, borrowed from the Greek through the Latin. It is cognate with Welsh eglwys, Cornish eglos, and Breton His. In Berwickshire are the village and parish of Eccles, a name found also more than once south of the Tweed. At an early date the church of Eccles was dedicated to St Cuthbert, but in the thirteenth century it was transferred to the patronage of St Andrew. The name of the former but not of the latter occurs among the four divisions of the parish, locally styled the " quarters " of Eccles. These are " Magealens or South, St John's or North, Ladies' or Eastern, and St Cuthbert's or Western." ^ There is also an Eccles in Penpont parish, Dumfriesshire.^ In a charter of date 1614 we read of Ecclisland at Invermessan, in the Wigtownshire parish of Inch, where the term is manifestly used simply as an equivalent for church-land.* St Ninian's parish, Stirlingshire, was in ancient times known as Egglis, Eggluis, or Eccles.^ During the reign of David I., Robert, Archbishop of St Andrews, granted to the recently -founded Abbey of Cambuskenneth "the church of Egglis with its chapels of Dunipace and Lithbert [Larbert], and all its other chapels and oratories."® In Blackford parish, Perthshire, is romantic Gleneagles, leading from Strathallan and Strathearn to Glendevon. The late Mr A. G. Reid of Auchterarder favoured me with the following regarding the origin of the name: "There can be no doubt that Gleneagles means the Glen of the Church, and has no aquiline derivation. By punning heraldry the old family of Haldane of Gleneagles adopted an eagle as their arms. There is a small chapel at Gleneagles in which 1 Appendix, E. '^ N. S. A., Berwick, p. 50. ' Ibid., Dumfries, p. 501. * R. M. S. ' N. S. A., Stirling-, p. 303. * Cambuskenneth Chartulary, p. 44. E 66 CHURCH-FOUNDING. the old lairds are interred, but it appears to be compara- tively modern. It seems to have been the domestic chapel for the use of the family. I think that the church must have been farther up the glen, and near to St Mungo's Well. I may mention that Gleneagles in common parlance is pronounced Glenegis. In 1520 it was written Glenneges." ^ If the old church of the glen was situated near St Mungo's Well, the probability is that it was dedicated to that Strathclyde missionary. The site of an early church is indicated by Shaneccles in Kilmarnock parish, Dumbartonshire, signifying old church, from Gaelic scean, old. Regarding it Mr J. Guthrie-Smith says : " St Ronan's original church in Kilmarnock was probably situated at a place now called Shaneccles, where till comparatively recent times some remains of buildings could be seen, and where stone coffins and urns and other remains of burial have been found." ^ Knockan-he-glish, in Drymen parish, Stirlingshire, means the hill or knoll of the church, from Gaelic cnoc, a hill. A chapel to St Mackessog stood on the lands of Finnick - Tennent, probably on Knockan-he-glish, where traces of a ruin still exist. In the neighbouring glen beside the Carnock is a spring known as the Holy Well ; and farther away is a piece of ground styled of old the Chapel-Croft of St MacKessog, all pointing to ecclesiastical influence.^ On the farm of the Upper Braes of Cultalich, near Aberfeldy, in Perthshire, as the Rev. Dr Hugh Macmillan tells us, " are the founda- tions of an ancient Celtic church, which may be distinctly traced on a high green mound overhanging a picturesque moorland burn. Nothing but the name of the mound — Knoc-na-Eaglais, the Mound of the Church — has survived of the traditions that may have been connected with it." * In Bonhill parish, Dumbartonshire, is Auchenheglish — i.e., the Field of the Church. Regarding it we read in the 'N. S. A.':^ "At Auchenheglish, on the banks of Auchin- denanrie (now Belretiro), was an old burying-ground, which ' Cambuskenneth Chartulary, p. 2i8. ^ Strathendrick and its Inhabitants, p. 127. •' J. Guthrie-Smith's Strathendrick, pp. 74, 220. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. xviii. p. 118. ' Dumbarton, p. 222. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 67 was used within the last century. It probably belonged to a place of worship which gave name to the field, and the ruins of which are still pointed out, when the lake is low, at a short distance from the shore, having been overflowed by the gradual encroachment of the water." At the east end of Loch Assynt, in Sutherland, is Achnahiglash, other- wise known as Balnaheglise, the field and the dwelling of the church.^ Dalleagles, in New Cumnock parish, Ayrshire, also means the field of the church, from Gaelic dail, a divi- sion or field. A writer in ' The Athenseum ' ^ suggests that Eaglesfield near Ecclefechan is derived from the Christian name of a neighbouring laird. We find Gaelic and English elements entering into the name of Eaglesham in Renfrew- shire, where the suffix is Old English, -ham, a homestead or village. The present village is the successor of one that stood with its church about a mile from the old castle of Polnoon, a seat of the Montgomeries, built soon after the battle of Otterburn in 1388, but now represented by some heaps of rubbish. The rectory of Eaglesham was made a prebend of Glasgow Cathedral about 1430, and the rector had a manse in Glasgow at the head of the Drygate.^ The parish of Terregles, Kirkcudbrightshire, containing the ruins of Lincluden College, where Nith and Cluden join their waters, shows by its name that it was once intimately connected with the church. In a Charter of David II., circa 1350, it appears as " Travereglys," whence has come its present name signifying the houses belonging to the church — from Gaelic treabhair, a collective plural substan- tive, meaning houses. Regarding Terregles, Symson says : " Concerning the Latin name of it, one man told me it was Terra Regalis ; another said its was Tertia Ecclesia ; a third said it was Terra Ecclesia." * Hecclegirth, near Annan, may be, as Mr Johnston suggests, church-field or -yard (Icelandic gardr, an enclosure). Two islands in Loch Tarbert, Jura, are named by Blaeu Yl-na-heglish— i.e.. Church Islands.*^ Egilshay, in Orkney, probably signifies church-island, the suffix being Norse -ay or -ey, an island. Some have thought ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 693. ^ i2th March 1894, p. 607. 3 Gordon's Vade-Mecum to Glasgow Cathedral, p. 170. * Description of Galloway, p. 11. ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 277. 68 CHURCH-FOUNDING. that the prefix is Egil-, a Norse proper name. Commenting on this view, Munch remarks: " Egilsey would at first appear to be so called from the Northern man's name, ' Egill.' Certain it is that this etymology has been in the minds of the colonists and their successors, but, we are inclined to think, without any just ground. To this day Egilsey contains a church from the oldest times, shown by its construction to have been built before the Northmen arrived in Orkney, or at all events to belong to the more ancient Christian Keltic population. Both its exterior and interior show so many resemblances to the old churches in Ireland from the seventh and eighth centuries, that we are compelled to suppose it to have been erected at that time by Irish priests. As we find no remains of any similar churches on the islands, we must suppose it to have been the first of the few on the thinly inhabited isle-group. The island on which it stood might therefore very justly be called ' church-isle.' " ^ With regard to the date of the still existing church on the island, Dr Joseph Anderson is less definite. He says : " Its resemblances to the Irish churches of the seventh and eighth centuries are not sufficiently determinative to enable us to assign to it unhesitatingly an Irish origin ; while, on the other hand, the resemblance to the round-towered churches of Norfolk suggests that it may have been of Scandinavian origin. But there is nothing in the architecture of the building either to fix the date of its erection or to deter- mine the questions of Celtic or Scandinavian origin with any degree of certainty."^ There is no doubt that there was a church on Egilshay in the beginning of the twelfth century, probably the same as the one whose round tower is still such a conspicuous object.^ In 1115 St Magnus was treacherously murdered on the island by his cousin Earl Hikon. We learn from the ' Orkneyinga Saga ' that when Magnus suspected treason on the part of the earl, he walked ' M^moires de la Soci(5t<5 Royale des Antiquaires du Nord, 1845-1849, p. 222. '' Orkneying-a Saga, Introduction, p. xcili. " For an account of the structural details of this church, vide Dr Ander- son's 'Scotland in Early Christian Times,' pp. 34-37. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 69 along the island with his men, and went into the church to pray. This church may have been the successor of a humbler structure dating from the times when Celtic missionaries visited our northern islands. Brand, writing in 1701, men- tions that the church on Egilshay was much resorted to by superstitious people, drawn thither, doubtless, by the still lingering traditions concerning the tragic death of St Magnus in the neighbourhood of the building.^ The word under review is associated in certain instances with the name of the saint to whom the church was dedi- cated. Thus Ecclefechan in Dumfriesshire, styled in charters " Ecclesia Sancti Fechani," commemorates St Fechan, who, as we have seen above, is associated with Llanfechan in Wales, and whose name appears in altered guise in St Vigeans in Forfarshire.^ About five miles to the south-east of Linlithgow is the village of Ecclesmachan,^ in a parish of the same name, called after St Machan, a disciple of St Cadoc, who flourished probably in the latter half of the sixth century.* In the ' Calendar of Papal Registers,^ Eglis- manqhwy is mentioned under date 1404. This is doubtless Ecclesmachan, as the saint was also known as Manchan. He evangelised the district of Campsie in the Lennox, and, ac- cording to the ' Martyrology of Aberdeen,' was buried there.^ He is described in that work as having been " a singular mirror of life and virtues " (vite et virtutum speculum singular e). "The church of Campsie was situated at the mouth of a ravine called Kirkton Glen, where five streams, pouring down from the hills, unite to form the water of Glasert."' It was one of the prebendal churches of Glasgow Cathedral, the parson being Chancellor of the Diocese. One of the 1 Brief Description of Orkney, Zetland, Pightland Firth, and Caithness, p. 40. 2 Fechan means a little raven, in Erse and Ga.e\ic Jitheachan. The word appears in Torphichen— z.e., the Raven's Hill— in Linlithgowshire. ' Ecclesmachan is also locally known as Inchmachan. * Kal., p. 380. The Lanarkshire parish of Machanshire or Dalserf, styled "Mecheyn" in the Inquisition of Prince David, circa 11 16, has probably nothing to do with St Machan, but may be connected with Gaelic magh, a plain. 5 Petitions, vol. i. p. 627. " P. S. A. Scot., vol. ii. p. 269. ' Gordon's Vade-Mecum to Glasgow Cathedral, p. 164. 70 CHURCH-FOUNDING. chancellors, Patrick Leiche, actuated by respect for the patron-saint of Campsie, founded in 1458 "a new chap- laincy, with a perpetual chaplain, within the cathedral church of Glasgow in the nave on the north side at the altar of St Manchan, situated at the third pillar from the rood-loft." 1 In Fife, near Auchtermuchty, are the village and parish of Strathmiglo, so called from the Miglo forming the upper part of the river Eden. The ancient name was Eccles- martine, showing that its church was under the patronage of St Martin of Tours. In the R. M. S., under date 1605, we read of "villam et burgum de Strathmiglo, alias Eglis- martene." In i486 mention is made of the lands of Inch- Martyne, near Aberdour, in the same shire, known earlier as Eglis-Martyn.^ In Fife also we find Eglismaly or Egs- malee on the lands of Tyrie, in Kinghorn parish. The name occurs in a charter of 1611, where we read of "one half carucate of land at the church of St Maling, now called Inchkerie, with the chapel Buchadlach, then called Eglis- maly." ^ The meaning of this is somewhat obscure, but Eglismaly is undoubtedly the same as Egsmalee, thus re- ferred to in the ' N. S. A.' : * "In the middle of a field be- longing to the farm of Tyrie stands an old ruin, the gable of a building of no great extent, but which, from its name and human bones found around it, was most likely a chapel. . . . The people call it Egsmalee." The name signifies, in all probability, the church of St Maling, otherwise Moling, an Irish saint of the seventh century. In Marykirk parish, Kincardineshire, is Ecclesmaldie or Inglismaldie ; but its dedication is uncertain. Jervise suggests that as Ecclesmadie was an old spelling of the name, it may have been to St Madie, otherwise Magdalene.^ In the ' Register of the Priory of St Andrews,' ^ under date 121 1, allusion is made to the rights of the Culdees of Mony- 1 For further particulars regarding: this altar, vide Archbishop Eyre's article on "The Old Arrangements of the Glasgow Cathedral" in the ' Trans, of the Glasgow Archaeol. Society,' New Series, vol. i. p. 488. ■^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. iii. p. 217. » R. M. S. * Fife, p. 8io. " Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 137. " P. 371. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 71 musk in Aberdeenshire over a half carucate of the land called Eglisimenythok. Bishop Forbes probably sums up all that can be said on this point when he remarks : " This name occurs under different spellings, — Eglismenegcott, Eglis- matok, Eglismenethok. From the analogy of the other places in Scotland where the eglais generally precedes the name of the local saint, we must presume that that is the case here; but who he is, or what is the original form of his name, it is impossible to ascertain."^ Forbes suggests that the name may be the same as Ecclesmonichty in Monifieth parish, Forfarshire, regarding which Jervise says : "Although there is now no hamlet — not even a cottage — at Ecclesmonichty, the town and lands of Egglismonichtie in the regality of Kirriemuir are particularly specified in a charter granted to James Lovell of Ballumbie by the Earl of Angus at Cupar- Fife, 27th October 1619." Mr A. J. Warden thinks that the church of Ecclesmonichty " may have been dedicated to the Virgin, as the tree that marks the site of the church is called the ' Lady Tree.' "^ If so, the Virgin evidently superseded the earlier patron. The vicarage of Dun, in the same county, was united in 1583 to the parsonage of Eglisjohn to form the present parish of Dun. Mr Warden says: "The parsonage was of old a chapel erected for pilgrimage, and consisted only of one plough of land. At the time of the annexation it was said to have been for a long time without a kirk. The site of the chapel of Eglisjohn is near to the house of Langley Park, and traces of it still remain." ^ In the R. M. S., under date 1613, is a reference to " terras de Egliscarno in constab. Haddington." These lands, now called Eagles- carnie, may possibly be named after a Welsh saint, a friend of St Patrick, called Carnac, Cairnech, or Carnocus.* The old name of Carluke, in Lanarkshire, was Eccles-Malesoch or Eglis-Malescok. The name is difficult to interpret ; but Mr Johnston proposes what seems to be the most likely derivation when he says, "The ma- is probably the en- dearing prefix, and -och the diminutive ; so -Lesc may be the name here corrupted into -Luke." ^ ' Kal., p. 397. 2 Angus, vol. iv. p. 373. * Ibid., vol. iii. p. 167. ■* Kal., p. 298. * Scottish Place-Names, p. 64. ^2 CHURCH-FOUNDING. Ecclesiamagirdle, otherwise Exmagirdle, in Dron parish, Perthshire, is so overshadowed by the Ochil Hills that, according to an old rhyme, " The lasses o' Exmagirdle May very weel be dun, For frae Michaelmas till Whitsunday They never see the sun." ' Chambers thinks that the name embodies that of St Grizel or Grizelda. The same view is taken by Mr Johnston. Dr Skene, however, finds in Ecclesiamagirdle the name of St Adrian in a corrupted form, and in this he is prob- ably correct. He says : " His [Adrian's] true name of a Scot was probably Odran. . . . The corrupt form of it was Magidran, which is simply the Irish mo with the inser- tion of a g, euphonicB gratia. The parishes of Flisk and Lindores are dedicated to MacGidrin, and a church near Dron is called, after him, Exmagirdle." ^ At Ecclesia- magirdle a fragment of an ancient chapel is still to be seen.' Lesmahagow in Lanarkshire is a corruption of Ecclesia Machuti, the St Machutus of the sixth century, a disciple of St Brandan.* He was of noble British birth, and was elected Bishop of Gunim Castri, but he refused the honour and went to Brittany, where against his will he was made a bishop. Forbes says : " This S. Machutus is the same with S. Malo, S. Maclovius, or S. Maclou. The see in Brittany to which he was elected was Aleth, which after- wards being reduced to a village, his sacred remains were carried to S. Malo, and the see transferred thither."^ According to another version, his relics, or at least some of them, were brought to Scotland and deposited in a church afterwards known as Ecclesia Machuti and Les Machute, and later as Lesmahagow. Cosmo Innes re- marks : " In 1316 King Robert First granted to the B.V. and St Machutus, and the monks of Lesmachute, ten merks sterling for supplying eight tapers of a pound of ' Chambers's Popular Rhymes of Scotland, p. 144. 2 P. S. A. Scot., vol. iv. p. 318. 3 N. S. A., Fife, p. 601. ■* St Machutus was titular of the pre-Reformation church of Wigtown. » Kal., p. 381. CHURCH-FOUNDING. 73 wax each, to be burned round the tomb of St Machutus on Sundays and festivals, as the custom is in cathedral and collegiate churches. . . . The ancient baptismal church became the church of the priory peopled by Kelso monks. It stood with its village on the Abbey-green, in a narrow part of the strath of the Nethan." 1 St Cyrus in Kincardineshire was formerly known by the alternative name of Ecclesgreig, written in 1382 " Egylysgryg," and in 1403 " Eglisgyrg." In addition to commemorating St Ciric, the martyr of Tarsus in the fourth century, it recalls Girig, King of Scotland, in the ninth. The latter was variously known as Grig, Girg, Girig, Greg, Gregour, and Ciric. The connection between the saint and the king, and the relation of both to the church of St Cyrus, are thus indicated by Dr Skene : " There is a curious notice in the Pictish Chronicle that in his [Grig's] ninth year an eclipse of the sun took place ' die Cirici.' The day of St Cyricus fell on the sixteenth of June, and there actually was a great eclipse of the sun on the sixteenth of June 885, which corresponds tolerably well with his ninth year. This seems to show some con- nexion between his own name and that of the saint ; and it is curious that a church in the Mearns, dedicated to St Cyricus, is called, in old charters, Ecclesgreig, or the Church of Greig."^ The most probable explanation is that the king, having the same name as the saint, founded a church to keep alive the memory of both. The old bury- ing-ground near the sea, locally styled the Nether Kirkyard, was probably the site of the original church. We learn that on the seventh of the Ides of August 1242 the church of Cyricius, the martyr of Eglisgirg, was dedicated by Bishop David de Bernham.^ This was evidently the suc- cessor of Grig's church. The mansion of Ecclesgreig House, formerly Mount Cyrus, keeps alive the ancient name.* 1 O. P. S., vol. i. p. no. 2 Chronicles of Picts and Scots, Pref., p. cxxxvii. 3 Register of the Priory of St Andrews, p. 348. * In a charter of date 1471 in the R. M. S., reference is made to the church of Eg-lisgreg with the chapel of St Regulus (St Rule), and to the church-lands of Eglisgrig- and Eglisreul. CHAPTER V. KILS, Origin of kil — Cella — Other meanings of kil — Kei/ and Keils — Their con- nection ivith St Columba — Kells — Kinkell — Loch-nan-Ceall — Portkill — Portankill — Kilninver — Kilmelfort — Glenakille — Machryhill — Achinlill — Kildrum — Kildrummy — Kilcreggan — Killin — Penkiln — Balnakeilly — Balnakiel — Kilchrenan — Kilnave. The history of cill, anglicised hil or kill, is of special value, as it takes our thoughts back to the earliest days of Celtic Christianity. In reference to the term Canon Isaac Taylor observes : " Originally this denoted only a hermit's cell, though it was afterwards used to mean the church, of which the hermit's cell was so often the germ. The numerous village names which have this prefix kil- possess a peculiar interest. They often point out to us the earliest local centres from which proceeded the evangelisation of the half-savage Celts ; they direct us to the hallowed spots where the first hermit missionaries established each his lonely cell, and thence spread around him the blessings of Christ- ianity and of civilisation. In Ireland alone there are no less than 1400 local names which contain this root, and there are very many in Scotland also. In Wales and the neighbouring counties a few names occur with the prefix kil- instead of llan-. These names may probably be re- garded as local memorials of those Irish missionaries who, about the fifth century, resorted in considerable numbers to the shores of Wales." ^ Dr Joyce computes the number of kils in Ireland at even a higher figure than that given by ' Words and Places, p. 227. KILS. 75 Canon Taylor. He says : " Cill (kill), next to baile, is the most prolific root in Irish names. Its most usual anglicised form is kill or kil, but it is also made kyle, keel, and cal; there are about 3400 names beginning with these syllables, and if we estimate that a fifth of them represent coill, a wood, there remain about 2700 whose first syllable is derived from cill."'^ Keeil is the form found in the topography of the Isle of Man.^ The word was borrowed by the Celtic missionaries from the Latin, and is merely cella, a cell or church, in a slightly altered form. Regarding the term as it appears in Gaelic, Professor Mackinnon remarks : " The old nominative was ceall, the genitive singular is cille, and the dative cill, which last has become the nominative."* The secondary meaning of the term is churchyard. This happened by a natural transition of thought, for the church and its burying-ground gradually became parts of one ecclesiastical conception. In Scotland, kil is sometimes the anglicised form of Gaelic words other than cill; and in consequence care has to be taken in interpreting place-names embodying the syllable in question. Thus kil may represent coill, a wood, caol, a strait, cuil, a corner, or cul, a back or ridge. Among about a score of kils given by Mr Liddall in his list of Fife and Kinross place-names, he has only one — viz., Kilminning — connected with church. Even allowing for difference of opinion regarding at least other two names in his list, we cannot but be struck with the preponderance of non- ecclesiastical kils in the area indicated. In our western districts the case is quite otherwise. As we shall see in the three following chapters, kil, when signifying a cell or church, is commonly linked with the name of the saint to whom the particular church was dedi- cated, but sometimes it appears simply as keil or keils with- out any such addition. Mr T. S. Muir remarks: "There are many keils in Argyle ; and while admitting that in the absence of the dedicatory title it may be the abbreviation of kil-anything, I am disposed to believe, from the number of ' Irish Names of Places, p. 303. 2 Moore's Surnames and Place-Names of the Isle of Man, pp. 151, 152. ' Scotsman, Article No. v. J6 KILS. instances in which the patron's name has been preserved, that in those in which it has been lost it was that of Columba. We have, for example, Keil in the southern extremity of Kintyre ; Kilcolmkill, ' better known,' says the minister of the parish, ' by the contracted name of Keil,' in Ardchattan; Keils in the island of Canna; Keils near Portaskaig, in the island of Isla; and Keils at the mouth of Lochaline in Morven, — at all which there are remains of ancient churches, known to have been dedicated to St Columba." ^ The first of these Keils is in Southend parish, and gives name to the estate of Keil, close to whose mansion- house is the ruined church of St Columba, standing in its ancient burying - ground. Mr Muir gives the following particulars : " Besides many worn slabs of ancient type, the yard contains one fine and finely preserved specimen on which is boldly sculptured the figure of an ecclesiastic in benediction or prayer, with a chalice beneath ; but the church — a long narrow building, with small round-headed windows and doorway, in the side walls only — has no features requiring remark. Under an overhanging rock, close by on the roadside, is St Columba's Well, and on the top of a hillock overlooking the west end of the burial- ground there is, by the side of the turf-covered groundwork of a small rectangular building and the pedestal of a pillar, a flat rock bearing on its top the impress of two feet, made, it seems, by those of the saint whilst he stood marking out and hallowing the spot on which his chapel should rest." * There is another Keils in North Knapdale parish, Argyll, " a pleasant and rather picturesque spot jutting into the Sound of Jura three miles or thereby north of Kilmory and Eilean mor." ^ According to the writer of the parish article in the ' New Statistical Account of Scotland,' the chapel there was dedicated to St Cormack, but Mr Muir holds that, as in the case of the other chapels mentioned above, it was probably dedicated not to St Cormack but to St Columba. The roofless building stands in a small burying- ground behind a low rocky hill at the back of the ferry- house. Near it is a carved cross about seven and a half 1 Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. i8o, note. '^ Ibid., p. 266. ' Ibid., p. 176. KILS. JJ feet in height, and within and around the chapel are several sepulchral slabs " elaborately decorated with sculpturings of warriors, galleys, swords, animals of chase, and border- ings of intertwined foliage." ^ The parish of Kells ^ in Galloway probably represents Gaelic coHl, a wood, with the English plural ; and it is likely that Kinkell, with perhaps one exception to be mentioned immediately, means the head of the wood, from Gaelic ceann, a head. There are five examples of Kinkell — viz., an estate near St Andrews, a district in Fordoun parish, Kincardine- shire ; an ancient Strathearn parish now included in Trinity- Gask; a castle in Urquhart and Logie- Wester parish, Ross-shire ; and an ancient parish in the Garioch district of Aberdeenshire, united in 1754 partly to Kintore and partly to Keithhall parish. It is possible that the last- mentioned Kinkell may embody kil, a church, in its final syllable. If so, the word means head church. As a matter of fact Kinkell had, in pre-Reformation days, seven churches depending on it — viz., those of Drumblade, Skene, Kintore, Dyce, Kemnay, Kinellar, and Monkeggie, and accordingly was quite entitled to be called a head church.^ We find kil in conjunction with certain physical features. Thus " the large arm of the sea that almost divides Mull into two is called Loch-nan-Ceall," as Professor Mackinnon tells us, " because of the number of churches erected along its shores." * In Rosneath parish, Dumbartonshire, close to the shore and just opposite Gourock, is the mansion- house of Portkill, otherwise Portkiln,^ signifying the Harbour of the Church. Near it a chapel is said to have stood, and in an adjacent field some stone coffins were dug up. Professor Cosmo Innes says : " It has been supposed— but apparently without sufficient evidence— that the Earls 1 Muir's Eccles. Notes, pp. i8o, i8i. 2 With reference to Kells in Ireland Bishop Reeves remarks: "The Irish name is Cenannus, which signifies 'head abode,' and gives the title ofHeadforfm the Irish and Kenlis in the British Peerag-e to the family of Taylor, whose seat is beside the town of Kells. Ke7ilis is the transition form of the name."— ' Adamnan,' Intro., p. li. 3 Temple's Thanage of Fermartyn, p. 234. * Scotsman, Article No. ix. 5 Maughan's Rosneath Past and Present, p. 161. 78 KILS. of Lennox founded here a religious house of canons regular, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary." ^ Portankill, in Kirk- maiden parish, Wigtownshire, half a mile north of St Medan's Cave, was so called, according to Sir Herbert Maxwell, from the proximity of its bay to the site of the old parish church dedicated to St Catherine.^ The hamlet of Kilninver in Lorn means the church of, or at, the confluence — from Gaelic inbhir, a confluence. The hamlet is situated on the side of Euchar Water, just above its junction with Loch Feochan. It gave name to the ancient parish of Kilninver, now united to Kilmelfort, whose church stands about eight miles from that of Kilninver. Kilmelfort means the church of Melfort, and derives its name from the sea-loch of Melfort, forming a fiord or firth, having the island of Luing at its entrance, and extending fully three miles into the land. In 1403 Melfort was written Melferth. The last syllable is probably the Norse fjord, in a slightly altered form. Mr Johnston suggests that the first syllable is Icelandic mel-r, a sand-dune covered with bent, a sand- bank.^ In South Knapdale parish, Argyll, is Glenakille — i.e., the Glen of the Church, where once stood a chapel long since removed but surviving by its burying-ground. About half a mile north-west of the old castle of Kilkerran, on the farm of Whitehill in Dailly parish, Ayrshire, is a spot called Machry-kill, where a chapel once stood on the banks of a rivulet. Chalmers, thinking that he saw St Machar's name in Machry-kill, says that the chapel was dedicated to that saint. In the same line of thought the writer of the parish article in the 'New Statistical Account of Scotland'* remarks: "At a place called Machry-kill there was a small church or chapel, probably dedicated to St Macarius." Sir Herbert Maxwell's contention is just, that "to bear this interpretation the name would certainly have been cast in the form Kilmachar." He says: "The fact is, that it has no reference whatever to the saint commemorated in the parishes of Old and New Machar in Aberdeen, which formed ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 29. "- p. S. A. Scot., vol. XX. p. 76, note. ' Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Melfort." ' Ayr, p. 384. KILS. 79 of old the Ecclesia beati Sti Machorii ; the original dedication of this Ayrshire site has been forgotten ; the place has been named in pure Gaehc (which was spoken in the neighbour- hood as late as the Reformation) machaire cill, the field of the chapel — kirkfield." ^ This is a natural etymology. A difficulty, however, lies in the meaning of machair, which signifies a plain or level piece of ground, whereas Machry- kill is on a slope. The Rev. Dr Turnbull of Dailly has favoured me with the following information regarding the place : " The site is not level, but on the slope of a hill. It partakes of the general character of the neighbouring land which slopes towards the valley of the Girvan ; and it has a further slope towards a small burn which at this point flows through a narrow glen of moderate depth." The foundations of the chapel were removed in 1850 in con- nection with agricultural improvements, but close to its site are still to be seen a cross-carved socket stone, and the pedestal of what was evidently a very tall cross. ^ In Cumbernauld parish is Achinkill, which one may safely interpret as the field of the church, from Gaelic achadh, a field (in topography, ach or auch). That the place had ecclesiastical associations is evidenced by what Cosmo Innes tells us. He says : " At Chapelton, on the farm of Achinkill, in the east end of the parish, some vestiges remain of an old cemetery which probably surrounded a church or chapel of which we have now no other trace but these names, both of which seem to point at such a foundation." ^ Kildrum, in the same parish, is either the Church of the Ridge or the Wood of the Ridge, the suffix being Gaelic druim, a back or ridge. Kildrummy, in Aberdeenshire, is interpreted by Mr Johnston as " the wood on the hill- ridge."* There is another Kildrummy in the neighbour- hood of Nairn. In Drymen parish, Stirlingshire, there are various ecclesiastical sites, and one of these is probably Drumakill— i.e., the Ridge of the Church, where it is likely some chapel stood. The old church of the parish is thought by Cosmo Innes to have been situated at Knocknaheglaish, ^ Scottish Land-Names, p. 12. 2 Ayr and Wigton Archaeological and Historical Collections. 3 O P S vol. i. p. 49. ■* Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kildrummy." 80 KILS. on the lands of Finnich Drummond.^ Kilcreggan, on the Firth of Clyde, means the Church on the Little Rock, the suffix being the diminutive of Gaelic creag, a rock or crag; but there are now no remains of any ancient ecclesiastical building at the place. Some uncertainty attaches to the meaning of Killin, at the head of Loch Tay in Perthshire. According to one etymology it signifies the Grave of Fingal (Gaelic cill- Fhinn) ; and a stone is pointed out as marking the resting- place of that hero. According to another etymology it is the Church of the Pool (Gaelic linne, a pool). Referring to these two etymologies, the writer of the article on Killin in the ' New Statistical Account of Scotland ' ^ remarks : " The name of this parish is variously derived. It may signify ' the chapel, churchyard, or burying-place of the pool,' — the ruins of an old chapel and churchyard being situated on the bank of the river Lochay, and having one of the deepest pools in the river just behind them. But a more romantic derivation has been given. A spot near the village of Killin has, from time immemorial, been pointed out as the grave of Fingal. This was once the site of the church, and also of the churchyard. The name agrees with either derivation, cill-linne or cill-Fhinn. There are considerations, however, which lead the writer to adopt the latter. One of these is that the church and churchyard of the parish were near the site of Fingal's grave, and therefore at a considerable dis- tance from the pool. Another circumstance deserves to be mentioned. The course of the Lochay seems to have been at one time considerably distant even from the present churchyard, and still more so from the old one referred to." Mr Johnston suggests a third etymology. He thinks that as Killin is the burying-place of the Macnabs, it may be regarded as the equivalent of killean — a common name in the south-west of Ireland for a burying-place.* Loch Killin, an expansion of the river Bran in Ross-shire, is, in Gaelic, Loch-a-Chuilinn. The name perhaps means the Loch of Hollies, from Gaelic cuilionn, a holly ; and if so it has manifestly no ecclesiastical associations. ' O. p. S., vol. i. p. 38. s Perth, p. 1076. ' Scottish Place-Names, s.v, " Killin." KILS. 8l Penkiln (otherwise Penkill) Burn in Kirkcudbrightshire means the Pool of the Church. Regarding the apparently Cornish prefix pen- and its relation to kil, Sir Herbert Maxwell remarks : "It is sometimes the corruption of another word. Thus the stream flowing past the ancient and picturesque parish church of Minigaff in Galloway is called the Penkiln, but it is not a Welsh word. In Font's map it is spelt Poolkill, which represents the Gaelic pol cil (keel), water or stream of the church." ^ There is another Penkiln Burn in Sorbie parish, beside which stood a church dedicated to St Fillan.^ Balnakeilly in Kilspindie parish, Perthshire, signifies the dweUing of, or at, the church, the prefix being Gaelic baile, a dwelling or town. In Durness parish, Sutherland, is Balnakiel, a mansion-house giving name to Balnakiel Bay. The house is close to the church, a rivulet running between them. The land was anciently Church property, and tradition says that the bishops of Caithness had a summer residence on the site of the present mansion-house.^ There is another Balnakiel in Uig parish in the Lewis, where a church dedicated to St Christopher is believed to have stood. The parish church, built in 1829, occupies a site in the vicinity.* At Clachan, in Kintyre, is the estate of Balnakill, so called from the ancient church dedicated to St Colmonella, which stood at some little distance from the present parish church of Kilcalmonell. Kilchrenan parish, in Argyll, extending along both sides of Loch Awe, has a curious etymological history. The name signifies the Church of the Dean. It was written in 1361 " Kildachmanan," and in 1605 " Kildachrenan." At the former of these dates the church was entitled " Ecclesia Sancti Petri Diaconi," with the addition in 1434 of " de Lochaw " and in 1530 of " de Lochow." Regarding St Peter the Deacon and the dedication to him at Kilchrenan, Cosmo Innes observes : " This saint seems to be unknown to hagiologists. The name of the church may have gradually assumed this form from the circumstances that the church of Lochow was the church of the dean, as its name ' Kil- dachmanan' seems to imply, and that it was, as appears, ' Scottish Land-Names, p. 46. ^ Gall. Top. ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 702. •* Ibid., p. 385. 82 KILS. dedicated to Saint Peter. The confusion of Diaconus with Dean is very common in Scotch writs." ' Kilnave in Kilchoman parish, Islay, means, according to Captain Thomas, the Church of the Saints — viz., those who gave name to Eilean Nave, the Island of the Saints, and Ardnave, the Promontory of the Saints in the same neighbourhood. According to a local tradition, Kilnave was, in 1588, the scene of a terrible tragedy following a clan fight between the Macdonalds and the MacLeans. A party of the latter, after being defeated by the Macdonalds on the side of the neighbouring Loch Gruinard, took refuge in the church. The Macdonalds set fire to the building, and the MacLeans perished in the flames. The church, as the writer of the parish article in the 'N. S. A.'^ re- marks, " stands to this day a roofless monument of the event." ' O. p. S., vol. ii. p. 121, note. ^ Argfyll, p. 650. CHAPTER VI. KILS AND SAINTS. Kilchrist — Kil losa — Kiltearn — Kiltrinidad — Kilmichael — Kilpeter — Cill- ma-Neachtan — Killearn — C'tlh Aindreas — Kilmore, [^c. — Kils on east and ivest coasts — Kilcolmhill — Kilmalcolm — Kilchuimin — Killeivnane, ^c. — Kilchoman — Kilcalmonell — Kilchen%ie — Kilpatrick — Kilmaheiu — Kilbride — Kilkerran — Kilkivan — Kilchouslan. A TRAGEDY, similar to that mentioned at the close of the previous chapter, was associated with Kilchrist — i.e., the Church of Christ, an ancient parish of Ross-shire, now united to Urray. The local tradition is thus given by Cosmo Innes : " In 1603 the Clanranald of Glengarry plundered the lands of Kilchrist and the adjacent lands belonging to the Mackenzies ; and the inhabitants who were assembled in the church were there burned to death by the invaders, whose piper meanwhile marched round the building playing a pibroch which has since been known, under the name of ' Kilchrist,' as the family tune of the Clanranalds." ^ Hugh Miller, who, however, calls the place Gilliechrist, when describing the same incident, observes : " It was the Mac- kenzies of Ord that their fellow- Christians and brother- churchmen — the Macdonalds of Glengarry — succeeded in converting into animal charcoal, when the poor people were engaged, like good Catholics, in attending mass; and in this old chapel of Gillie-Christ was the experiment per- formed. The Macdonalds, after setting fire to the building, held fast the doors until the last of the Mackenzies of Ord had perished in the flames ; and then, pursued by the Mac- 1 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 524. 84 KILS AND SAINTS. kenzies of Brahan, they fled into their own country, to glory ever after in the greatness of the feat." ^ The parish of Strath in Skye was at one time known as Kilchrist. Its ancient church stood at Loch Chriest, near the centre of the parish. Muir tells us that " in the burying- ground are the remains of a pretty large church, apparently of moderate age, two or three fine slabs, and a plain pros- strate cross, five feet six inches in length."^ In connection with his visit to Kilchrist, Pennant remarks : " Near the church are vast strata of fine white marble, and some veined with grey, which I recognised to have been the bed from whence the altar at lona had been formed."^ There is another Kilchrist in the united parish of Kilninian and Kilcolmkill in Mull. The Rev. J. B. Johnston says that there was at least one Kil losa — i.e., the Church of Jesus — but he does not indicate the whereabouts of the place or places so named.* The Ross-shire parish of Kiltearn was written in 1296 " Keltyern," and also " Keltyerne," signify- ing the Church of the Lord, from Gaelic Tigkearn or Tighearna,^ the Lord.^ The parish church stands close to the shore of the Cromarty Firth, and probably occupies the site of the original building.' An ancient ecclesiastical site in the south of North Uist, on a raised spot not far from the ford to Benbecula, was formerly known as Kiltrinidad, and now goes by the name of Teampul-na-Trianaide, both signifying the Church of the Trinity. The site is occupied by two ruined churches of different sizes, and probably of different dates. They are about five feet from one another, but are connected by a semicircularly vaulted passage with a window at each side, the passage being evidently a later addition.^ St Michael the Archangel has several dedications along our western coasts, particularly in Argyll. As Dr James Colville observes : " He was the favourite saint with the Norse settlers, and especially associated with the horse. ' My Schools and Schoolmasters (ed. 1889), p. 176. '■' Eccles. Notes, p. 34. ^ Tour in Scotland, vol. ii. p. 285. * Scottish Place-Names, Pref., p. cv. " Gh in Gaelic is pronounced as y in Engflish. " Bishop Forbes connects Kiltearn with St Tig-hernach, regarding whose date there is much uncertainty. Vide 'Kal.,' s.v. "Tighernach." ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 478. ' Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 277. KILS AND SAINTS. 8$ For centuries, all over the Outer and Inner Hebrides, his feast-day was marked by a mad gallop from every dachan and bal around to the church-gate." ^ Five kils were dedi- cated to him in Argyll — viz., Kilmichael, an ancient parish now included in Campbeltown ; Kilmichael, in Inverchaolain parish; Kilmichael, in the district of Carradale in Killean parish ; Kilmichael — Glassary parish, and Kilmichael — Inverlussy in North Knapdale parish, past which flows Kilmichael Water, a stream having its source in Kilmichael Moor.^ In Glencloy, Arran, is Kilmichael, where there was a chapel whose foundations were removed early last century. In Urquhart and Glenmoriston parish, Inverness-shire, is Kilmichael, where there used to be a bell which was held in much reverence, and was believed to ring of its own accord when a funeral was approaching the burying-ground.^ Kilmichael in Bute is thought by the Rev. Dr J. K. Hewison to be the church not of St Michael the Archangel, but of St Maccaille, a disciple of St Patrick who died circa 490 A.D.* St Peter is represented in topography in connection with kils. Houston parish, Renfrewshire, united to Kilallan in 1760, was anciently called Kilpeter. About the middle of the twelfth century the barony came into the possession of Hugo de Paduinan, and Hugh's Town supplanted Peter's Church ; but the ancient name is still to be found in Peter's Burn and St Peter's Well. A fair was held till a compara- tively recent date in connection with St Peter's Day (29th June).® In Kildonan parish, Sutherland, are the lands of Kilphedder. "The place of Kilphedder " Sage describes as " a lovely spot, past which a rushing torrent breaks through the copsewood on its way to the river (Helmsdale). The burn of Kilphedder, a little farther down, turned a mill built there for the accommodation of the inhabitants of the lower ' "Romance of a West Highland Loch" in 'Glasgow Herald' (17th September 1898). ■i N. S. A., Argyll, p. 633. ' Mackay's Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 387. * Bute in the Olden Times, vol. i. p. 66. Vide St Michael's Grave in chap. XXX. * Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 836, note. 86 KILS AND SAINTS, part of the strath." ^ In Clyne parish, in the same county, are the lands of Kilpeddermore and Kilpedderbeg, named in a retour of 1616 Meikill Kilpeddir and Lytill Kilpeddir.^ Kilpeter, styled in 1561 " Keilpedder in Veist," formed the southern part of the modern parish of South Uist, compris- ing the districts of Kandish and Boisdale and certain neigh- bouring islands. It was called by Monro, in 1549, " Peitter's Parochin." The church stood at Kilpeter, near the west coast of the parish.^ There is a Killipheder in Kilmuir parish in North Uist, where a chapel is believed to have stood. Kilfeather, in New Luce parish, Wigtownshire, is merely another form of Kilpeter, the aspirated p in Gaelic having become /in English.* Nectan, King of the Picts, in the early part of the eighth century, officially recognised the cultus of St Peter within his dominions. He favoured the Roman usage regarding Easter and the tonsure as against the Celtic, and went so far as to expel the Columban clergy from his kingdom. He himself became a cleric, and Dr Skene thinks that we have probably a trace of him in Cill-ma-Neachtan, regarding which he observes : " It is possible that Neachtan may have made up his quarrel with the lona monks and retired to lona, as we find there, at the end of a broad and elevated terrace near the present ruins, the remains of a burying- ground called Cill-ma-Neachtan which marks the site of an oratory."^ In Clyne parish, mentioned above, we find Killean near Loch Brora, signifying St John's Church. In Mull, between Loch Don and Loch Spelve, is Killean, a secluded spot where there are some remains of a small chapel and several sculptured slabs. ^ In Kintyre is Killean, a parish united to Kilchenzie before 1636, and entitled, in an early Latin charter, " Ecclesia Sancti Johannis." Its cruciform pre- Reformation church, still almost entire, stands on the west coast opposite the island of Cara. The parish of Kildalton in Islay also recalls St John, but in a different way. The name signifies, according to Sir Herbert Maxwell, the Church ' Memorabilia Domestica, p. 98. " O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 726. " Il'-d., PP- 3<5S. 366. •> Gall. Top., s.v. "Kilfeather." » Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 233, note. » Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 25. KILS AND SAINTS. 87 of the Foster-brother — an affectionate appellation of St John, who is styled in the Book of Lismore the bosom-fosterling.^ Daltan is evidently the diminutive of Gaelic dalta, defined by Dr Macbain ^ as foster-son, god-son. Cosmo Innes says : " The original church of the parish stood at Kildalton, a few miles south-west from the entrance to the Sound of Islay, where its cemetery, and apparently its walls, altar, and font, still remain." ^ St Andrew is commemorated in Cille Aindreas on the banks of the Tilt in Blair Atholl parish, where some sepulchral remains were found.* Churches dedicated to the Virgin originated such names as Kilmore, Kilmuir, and Kilmory, to be referred to in another chapter.^ It is noticeable how few kils are to be found in the East of Scotland in conjunction with the names of saints, com- pared with those along our western seaboard and in the Hebrides. This difference is to be traced to the greater proximity of the latter districts to Ireland, whence so many missionaries sailed to evangelise our land. Some of these kils represent towns or parishes, and others hamlets or farms ; while others, again, are merely ancient ecclesiastical sites. Professor Mackinnon truly remarks : " The marvellous influence which the Church acquired over the rude northern tribes was due in great measure to the high rank, great learning, political sagacity, and religious fervour of Saint Columba. The great missionary was also fortunate in being accompanied by men who were fit to be companions, and successors even, to him." ® Columba has a special claim on our attention here ; for not only is kil prefixed to his name, but the latter has often kil as a suffix, indicating Columba of the Church.^ Thus we have Kilcolmkill-— i.e., the Church of Columba of the Church. There were four ancient parishes so named — viz., Kilcolmkill in Mull, now united to Kilninian ; Kilcolmkill in Kintyre, now forming part of Southend parish ; Kilcolmkill in Skye, now Snizort parish. 1 Mr Johnston takes a different view. He interprets Kildalton as church of the little foster-child, or god-child, which just means branch or affiliated church. 2 Gaelic Dictionary, s.v. "Dalta." ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 269. * N. S. A., Perth, p. 568. ^ Vide chap. xv. 8 Scotsman, Article No. ix. ' Vide chap. ii. 88 KILS AND SAINTS. whose church stood on an island at the head of Loch Snizort ; ^ and lastly, Kilcolmkill united to Killintag to form the modern parish of Morven, Argyll. Its church stood at Keil, and tradition says that Columba himself selected the spot.''' To these should be added Kilchalmkil, at one time the alternative name of Sand in North Uist, formerly a separate parsonage, but latterly united to Kilmuir parish. Among non-parochial localities bearing the name may be mentioned Kilcolmkill, now Keil, in Ardchattan parish, Argyll ; Kilcolmkill in Kildalton parish, Islay ; Kilcolmkill in Killarrow and Kilmeny parish, also in Islay, between Loch Finlagan and the east coast ; and Kilcolmkill, an estate near Loch Brora in Clyne parish, where there is a fine cascade in the Black Water river, and where, accord- ing to Pennant, a battle is said to have been fought between the country people and the Danes, in which the latter were routed.^ We find the initial kil but not the final kill in Kilmalcolm in Renfrewshire — i.e., the Church of my Columba. The I before the c is intrusive. The name was written in the twelfth century " Kilmakolme," the ma being the honorific syllable so often attached to the name of a saint.* There was another Kilmalcolm in Aberdeenshire regarding which the Rev. Dr Temple observes : " In 1266, when Reginald Cheyne was Thane of Fermartyn, there is among the accounts rendered to the Exchequer a payment of ten marks for the lands of Kilmalcolm, let to the burgesses of Fyvy. There is no name at the present day in the neighboui'hood that bears any resemblance to this."^ Cumine the Fair, who wrote a biography of Columba, and died as Abbot of lona in 66g, has probably left a trace of himself in Glenelg parish, once styled Kilchuimen,^ and at Fort Augustus which was formerly known as Kilchuimin ; 1 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 355. = N. S. A., Argyll, p. 181. ' Tour, vol. i. p. 357. * Scottish Land-Names, p. 174. ' The Thanage of Fermartyn, p. 57. " Some perplexing spellings of Kilchuimen are on record. Professor Cosmo Innes inclines to St Coemgen as titular. He says : "The church, ap- parently dedicated to Saint Coemgen, seems to have stood on the right bank of a small stream falling into the bay of Glenelg near the village of Kirk- town, where the modern church also is situated." — ' O. P. S.,' vol. ii. p. 207. KILS AND SAINTS. 89 while Adamnan, Columba's later biographer, who was also Abbot of lona, and died in 704, is commemorated in the lands of Killewnane, otherwise Kilyownane, in Kintyre, and in Kilmaveonaig, Blair Atholl, according to Mr Johnston, who interprets the name as " Church of my dear little Eunan or Adamnan." 1 There is, however, some uncertainty about this etymology. Kildavannan farm in Bute, near Cnoc- davannan, where there are the foundations of a chapel, is thought by Dr J. K. Hewison to embody in all probability Adamnan's name;^ but the etymology is obscure. There is a Kilvannan in South Uist. St Comman or Coman, one of the brethren at lona, narrated to Adamnan — on the testimony of Fergna, an uncle of the former — a story of a miraculous light which filled the church on one occasion when Columba entered it to pray.^ We find his name in Kilchoman, a parish in the Rhins of Islay. St Colman-Eala, otherwise Columbanus, is represented by the parish of Kilcalmonell, regarding which Professor Mackinnon gives the following curious informa- tion : " Killcalmonell, in Kintyre, is called in the district Sgire Chalmaineala, the Parish of Colmonella. But the Islay people, who live right opposite, knowing nothing of Colmonella, allowed their fancy free play and changed the name to Sgire-nan-calaman geala " the Parish of White Pigeons."* This is the picture of the place given by Dr James Colville in his ' Byways of History ' : " Soon the western glen discloses a vista in which the clachan of Kil- calmonell lies half hid among the woods of Balinakil ; and beyond the eye follows a succession of pastoral knolls to the fortress crag of Dunskeig, while in the background the white sails float on the wave that washes the shores of Gigha and Islay, and the pearly mist drapes lightly the graceful cones of the Paps of Jura. The site of the early shrine is indicated by the name Sheanakil, the Ancient (Lat. senex) Cell, given to a rugged knoll that looks down upon the hamlet from the north side of the stream at some little distance from the present church. On Pont and ' Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kilmaveonaig." 2 Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 209. ' Adamnan, lib. iii. cap. 20. * Scotsman, Article No. iii. 90 KILS AND SAINTS. Blaeu's Map the spot is marked ' Balnaheglish,' Kirk toon. Here, too, there are traces of an old burying-ground."i On Blaeu's map there is a Kilchalmanel marked in what is now Southend parish, showing a second dedication to the saint in Kintyre. St Kenneth, otherwise Cainnech, Abbot of Aghaboe in Ireland, had various links with Scotland, particularly with the Western Isles. He was a friend of Columba, and ac- companied him on his mission to the court of King Brude, near Inverness. We find a trace of the saint in Kilchenzie parish — i.e., the church of Kenneth in Kintyre, whose ancient place of worship is situated some four miles from Campbeltown, — and in Kilchainie in the islands respectively of Coll, Tiree, and South Uist, at each of which a chapel to St Kenneth is believed to have stood. We also find a trace of him in Ayrshire in the now ruined Castle of Kil- chenzie in Maybole parish, ^ regarding which, after referring to various houses in the district, Abercrummie remarks, in his " Description of Carrick " : " Many of these are sweet desyreable places ; but for the good building, gardens, orchards, and all other accommodations, Kilkeiznie is the chief, lying about a short myle south from the Towne of Mayboll." =* St Patrick, the best known saint of Ireland, was not an Irishman by birth. What we know regarding his parentage is contained in his " Confession " and his " Epistle to Coro- ticus." In the former he says : " I, Patrick, a sinner, the rudest and the least of all the faithful, and an object of the greatest contempt to many, am the son of Calpornius, a deacon, the son of the late Potitus, a presbyter, who lived in Bannavem, a village of Tabernia, in the neighbourhood of which he had a small farm." * Patrick was living there when about the age of sixteen he was carried away as a captive to Ireland, whence he escaped six years later. The place called Bunnaven Tabirnias is commonly iden- tified with Dumbarton. If one might hazard a conjecture, ' Byways of History, pp. s7, 59- ■' N. S. A., Ayr, p. 365. ' Pitcairn's History of the Kennedys, p. 177. ■" Vide ' Epistles and Hymn of Saint Patrick,' by Rev. Thos. Olden ; also Skene's 'Celtic Scotland,' vol. ii. pp. 427-443. KILS AND SAINTS. 9I Bunnaven is Gaelic for the foot of the river — i.e., the Leven at Dumbarton. We certainly find the saint in Dumbarton- shire, where there are the parishes of Old and New Kil- patrick. The former has various traditions regarding him. There is St Patrick's Stone, and there was a place formerly known as St Patrick's Seat, while in the churchyard a sculptured effigy was supposed to represent the saint. The church is said to have been built on soil brought from Ireland in honour of St Patrick. His shrine was a resort of pilgrims in mediaeval times, and the holder of the lands of Kilpatrick seems to have been under an obligation to entertain them.^ According to tradition St Patrick was buried at Old Kilpatrick, but in reality he was interred at Downpatrick, in Ireland. A well-known couplet says : — " In Down three saints one tomb fill, Patrick, Bridget, and Columkille." There are other three Kilpatricks — viz., Kilpatrick on Loch Scridain in Mull, where there was a chapel to the saint ; Kilpatrick near Duart Castle, also in Mull, where there was likewise a chapel ; and Kilpatrick on Drumadoon Bay, otherwise Kilpatrick Bay, in Arran. St Macceus or Mahew, one of St Patrick's disciples, is commemorated in Kilmahew in Cardross parish, Dum- bartonshire, where there was a chapel dedicated to him. Mr W. C. Maughan remarks : " In the year 1467 the chapel of Kilmahew was rebuilt, and on the tenth day of May, George, Bishop of Argyll, with licence from the Bishop of Glasgow, clad in his mitre and pontifical robes, consecrated the chapel and cemetery dedicated to St Mahew. He also granted, in name and by consent of Duncan Napare of Kilmahew and James Napare his heir, to God and St Mahew, and a chaplain to celebrate in the newly conse- crated chapel, forty shillings and tenpence yearly out of tenements in the Burgh of Dumbarton, with a croft adjoin- ing the chapel."^ Bridget, Brigit, or Bryde — Mary of the Gael, as she was ' Bruce's Old Kilpatrick, p. 59. ^ Annals of Garelochside, pp. 243, 244. 92 KILS AND SAINTS. styled — acquired a definite place in the folk-lore^ and topo- graphy of our western districts. Her day in the Calendar is ist February ; but as through the admixture of pagan legend she gathered to herself the attributes of a fire-goddess, her festival was often held on Candlemas (2nd February). The fire at her shrine at Kildare was kept burning for centuries, and was finally extinguished only on the suppression of the monasteries by Henry VHI.^ A curious custom practised in Colonsay in Martin's time {circa 1695) on the 2nd Feb- ruary is thus described by him : " The Mistress and Servants of each Family take a Sheaf of Oats, and dress it up in Women's Apparel, put it in a large Basket, and lay a wooden Club by it, and this they call Briids-bed; and then the Mistress and Servants cry three times, ' Briid is come, Briid is welcome.' This they do just before going to bed, and when they rise in the morning they look among the Ashes expecting to see the Impression of Brud's Club there; which, if they do, they reckon it a true Presage of a good Crop and prosperous Year, and the contrary they take as an ill Omen."^ As already indicated, her dedications were numerous in the West. Six parishes were named Kilbride, four of these being on the mainland — viz., Kilbride, a suppressed Niths- dale parish, known later as Kirkbride; East Kilbride, Lanarkshire, whose church in pre-Reformation times be- longed to the Bishops of Glasgow, and was assigned for the maintenance of the chanter of the Cathedral ; * West Kil- bride, Ayrshire, where a fair called Brydsday used to be held in the churchyard on the saint's festival ; ^ and Kil- bride, Argyll, united to Kilmore soon after the Reformation. Its church, styled in 1249 " Ecclesia Parochialis Beate Brigide Virginis in Lorn,"® stood at Kilbride, to the west of Lochnell, about three miles from Oban. Two of St ' Vide Article in 'Glasgow Herald' (2nd February 1895), "St Brigit in Hebridean Folk-Lore," by W. M'K. '^ Article on "Celtic Mythology" by Alex. Macbain, in 'Celtic Maga- zine,' vol. ix. p. 212. ' Western Isles, p. 119. For an ancient custom in the Isle of Man, some- what resembling this, vide Dyer's ' British Popular Customs,' p. 51. ■* O. P. S., vol. i. p. 100. » N. S. A., Ayr, p. 243. " Ibid., vol. ii. p. 108. KILS AND SAINTS. 93 Bride's parishes are, or were, on islands — viz., Kilbride (now Harris), Inverness-shire, and Kilbride in Arran, whose church stands near Lamlash. In its graveyard are some ancient slabs sculptured with crosses, swords, &c.^ Among non-parochial Kilbrides may be mentioned the following : Kilbride in the island of Sail ; Kilbride in Glen- fruin ; Kilbryde, an estate in Dunblane parish ; the lands of Kilbride in Kilfinan parish, where we also find Kilbride Bay ; Kilbryde in Inveraray parish ; Kilbride in the island of Coll ; Kilbride in Strath parish in Skye ; Kilbride in Kilmuir parish, in the same island ; ^ Kilbride in Glassary parish ; and Kilbride in Glenmore, in Bute. Regarding the last, Dr J. K. Hewison remarks : " Of St Bride's chapel and cemetery not a trace now remains save in the name of the farm of Kilbride, the hill above it called Kilbride Hill, and the farm in the vicinity — Drumachloy (Drum-a-chlaidh), Ridge of the Churchyard." ^ In Keir parish, Dumfriesshire, we find Kilbride Loch and Kilbride Hill, both named from a chapel to the saint believed to have stood on the latter.* Hillmabreedia, in New Luce parish, Wigtownshire, should also be mentioned, since, according to Sir Herbert Max- well, it is merely an altered form of Chill-ma-Brighde, Cell of our Bridget. It is situated on the Breedie Burn, St Bride's stream. ° St Kieran's church in Dailly parish, Ayrshire, is recalled by Kilkerran, an estate with a mansion-house and a ruined castle. In Islay is Kilchieran, situated at the head of a creek some two miles south of Kilchoman. Muir says : " The east end and a fragment of the south wall of a chapel are existing at this place ; the former has no window, but in its interior face are two recesses with projecting sills, flanked on the north by an ambry, and on the south by a projecting piscina."^ Kilchiaran parish, otherwise Kil- kerran, in Kintyre, is now merged in that of Campbeltown, 1 Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 4. 2 Kilbride in Seil and Kilbride in Kilmuir parish seem to have had a quasi- parochial status in pre-Reforraation times. 3 Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 1 14. " N. S. A., Dumfries, pp. 462, 467. ^ Scottish Land-Names, p. 174. ' Eccles. Notes, p. 15. 94 KILS AND SAINTS. but there is still a Kilchiaran on the south shore of Camp- beltown Loch, about a mile from the burgh. The former name of Campbeltown parish was Ceannloch-chille-Chiaran, the Head of the Loch of Kilkerran.^ Kilkivan, another ancient parish now included in Camp- beltown, embodies the name of St Coivin, otherwise Kevin, an Irish anchorite who founded the monastery of Glenda- lough in Wicklow about the middle of the sixth century, and sought retirement in a cave, hence called St Kevin's Bed, in the face of a rock some thirty or forty feet above a neighbouring lake. Colonel T. P. White observes : "The church with its burying-ground stands close to the farmhouse of High Kilkivan, to which it gave its name. The building is in tolerable preservation, the western gable being nearly entire, but the east portion and part of the north wall are gone. What are left of the walls stand ten or eleven feet high." Colonel White adds : " A httle to the south of the church is a small hill named Cnocan-a-Chluig (Knoll of the Bell), so called, it is said, because from its summit a bell used to be rung to summon the parishioners to their devotions.^ In 1772 Pennant, when describing the appear- ance of the country between Campbeltown and Machrihanish, remarks : " This plain is fruitful ; pretty much inclosed, and the hedges grow well — a great encouragement to further experiments. Observe on the roadside the ruins of the chapel of Cill-chaovain, or Kilchyvain : within are some old gravestones, engraven with figures of a two-handed sword, and of dogs chasing deer."* St Coivin had a chapel near Macharioch House in Southend parish, but the foundations alone remain to indicate its site. Another parish, now part of Campbeltown, was Kilchous- land, called after St Constantine, a king in Cornwall in the sixth century, who relinquished his crown and went first to Wales and then to Ireland, and later to Scotland, where he founded a monastery at Govan near Glasgow, over which he presided as abbot. He preached the Gospel in Kintyre, where he was martyred in extreme old age,* and where the ' N. S. A., Arg-yll, p. 453. * ArchfEological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, pp. 88, 117, 119. ' Tour, vol. ii. p. 196. * Fordun's Scotichronicon, vol. i. p. 150. KILS AND SAINTS. 95 church of Kilchousland is still his memorial. Regarding the building Colonel White observes : " The ruin of the church — in dimensions some sixty feet by twenty — is still in good preservation, walls and gable-ends tolerably entire, but the roof gone." ^ A short way up the hillside from Loch Gilp, and close to Ardrishaig, is Kilduslan, or Kilduskland, which Colonel White is inclined to resolve into Kilda Chusalam — i.e., the Church of Constantine. He remarks : "The prefix rfa- or do- is met with in the more ancient forms of Celtic saints' names ; and if its existence be taken for granted here, we might accept it as some evidence of a higher than ordinary antiquity in this religious site."^ Though martyred in Argyll, St Constantine was buried at Govan, where an elaborately sculptured sarcophagus, still preserved, is thought to have been his shrine. The Cornish parish of Constantine bears his name ; and, as Mr Wm. C. Borlase tells us, a chapel was dedicated to him in St Merryn, " the adjoining parish to Padstow, where he was com- memorated, says Lysons, on Mar. g (two days before his feast in Constantine parish), by an annual hurling match. A shepherd's family held one of the farms in St Merryn for many generations by the annual render of a Cornish pie, made of limpets, raisins, and sweet herbs on the feast of St Constantine." ^ In Dunnichen parish, Forfarshire, a chapel dedicated to St Constantine became in time the church of the parish, at whose Kirkton a noted fair used to be held in March in honour of the saint. In Forfarshire a fall of snow occurring in that month is, or was, known as St Causnan's Flaw.* An interesting parallel is to be found in what is known in Norfolk as a " Whinwall storm " early in March, recalling St Winnal or Winwaloe, a Cymric saint of the sixth century, to whom a priory at Wereham was dedicated, and whose day in the Calendar is the 3rd of the month in question.^ 1 Archaeological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, p. 112. 2 Ibid., Knapdale, p. 84. ' The Ag:e of the Saints, p. 145. * O. S. A., vol. i. p. 422, and N. S. A., Forfar, p. 152. ' " Popular Superstitions," 'Gentleman's Magazine Library,' p. 31. CHAPTER VII. KILS AND SAINTS — continued. Kilbrandon — Kilhirnie — Kilbarchan — Kilberry — Kilmaluag — Killeipickerrill — Kilmonivaig — Kilmun — Killiemacuddkan — Kill'mtag — Killundine — Kilvean — Kildonan — Kiltarlity — Kilynaig — Kilmashenaghan — Ktlma- humag — Kilchammak - — Kilvtck O'charmaig — Kilviceuen — Kilfinichen — Kilmurdah — Kilhlane — Kilchattan — Kilearnadale — Killearn — Killoran — Killearnan — Kilmodan — Kilmaronock — Kilmaglass. The name of St Brendan of Clonfert appears in two forms in connection with his kih — viz., Kilbrandon and Kilbirnie. In the west of Kintyre is Kilbrandon — a parish now united to Kilchattan ; and in the east is Kilbrandon, otherwise Kilbrennan Sound — a belt of sea extending some twenty- seven miles south from the entrance to Loch Fyne. The kil that gave name to the sound is a chapel near Skipness Castle. Close to it is a small creek called Brann-a-Phuirt ; and a sandy bay some six miles to the south is known as Brian Puirt, — both signifying, as Colonel White suggests, St Brendan's Port.^ In Mull is a place called Kilbrennan, connected with which was a pennyland belonging in 1561 to the Abbot of lona.^ Kilbirnie is a town and parish in Ayrshire. Cosmo Innes says : " The church, situated on the Garnock and beside the castle of the manor, appears to have been dedicated to Saint Brandane, the apostle of the isles, whose festival is on the sixteenth day of May. 1 Archaeological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, p. 182, where the re- puted dedication to St Columba of the chapel at Skipness is discussed. Mr Johnston interprets Kilbrennan Sound as the "kyle" or "strait" of St Brendan, and gives caol Brcndain as the equivalent in Gaelic. Vide •Scottish Place-Names,' s.z>. "Kilbrennan." '^ O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 321. KILS AND SAINTS. 97 The annual fair is held on the 28th of May, and is called Saint Brinnan's Day. In the neighbourhood is a mineral well, known by the name of Birnie's Well." ^ Kilbirnie Loch is in the adjoining parish of Beith. There are two Kilbirnies in the north — viz., Kilbirnie in the Boyne dis- trict of Banffshire, and Kilbirnie in the Aird of Inver- ness-shire. The Renfrewshire parish of Kilbarchan, written at one time Kylberchan, recalls St Berchan, regarding whose dates there is considerable uncertainty. He was called in Irish Fer-da-Leithe — i.e., the Man of Two Portions, because half of his life was spent in Erin and half in Alban. He is said to have been a bishop in the Orkneys. One of the fairs at Tain in the sixteenth century is named in a charter " Dies S. Barquhani qui est tercius dies post festum S. Petri ad Vincula vocat. Lambmes " — i.e., the 4th of August ; but Dempster, in his ' Menologium,' places St Berchan's Day at 6th April ; ^ while in the ' Martyrology of Donegal ' a St Bearchan is entered under 4th December. The Rev. D. Mackenzie observes : " We are well within the mark if we assign to St Barchan dates within the sixth and seventh centuries : there is no reason whatever for putting him later than 700 a.d., and he may have been as early as 550 A.D." 3 Mr Mackenzie mentions that the annual fair known as Barchan's Day is held in the parish on the first Tuesday after the 12th of December — i.e., on the first Tuesday of December (O.S.), corresponding so far with St Berchan's Day as given in the ' Martyrology of Donegal ' quoted above.* St Berach of Kilbarry, in county Roscommon, Ireland, gave name to Kilberry parish in Kintyre, now united to Kilcalmonell. When the saint was about to sail from lona to Tiree, he was warned by Columba to take a circuitous route in order to avoid a certain monster of the deep which would otherwise molest him. He disregarded the warning, and encountered an enormous whale which so agitated the sea that the occupants of the boat were in imminent danger of shipwreck.^ 1 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 92. '^ Kal. ^ History of Kilbarchan, p. 20. * FiWe Adamnan, Intro., p. ccxxxi. ^ Adamnan, p. 17. G 98 KILS AND SAINTS. The ancient church of Kilberry stood on the right bank of Kilberry water ; and till modern times there was a bell in the parish called St Barry's Bell, and inscribed with his name.^ On the west coast of Kilberry parish is Kilmaluag, where there was a chapel to St Lugaidh (pronounced Lua), better known with honorific prefix and suffix as Mo-luog, which appears under various spellings. The saint was an Irishman by birth, and received instruction from St Brendan. He crossed to Scotland, and after founding several churches, died in 592, and was buried at Rosemarkie in Ross-shire. The island of Lismore, however, was the principal scene of his labours, and we naturally find a Kilmaluag there. The Dean of Lismore in 1251 was Gillemeluoc — a significant name, as it means the Servant of St Maluog.^ Lismore parish, now united to Appin, was known circa 1600 as Kilmaluag, and in 1662 as Kilmaluage in Lismoir.^ Kilmuir parish in Skye was called Kilmaluag prior to the Reforma- tion. Its ancient church stood at Kilmaluag, on the north- east coast of the parish. There is a Kilmaluag in the island of Tiree, and there is another in Mull ; while in Renfrew- shire is the barony of Kilmaluag. In the south of Raasay is Kilmoluag, where St Moluac's church stood. Cosmo Innes says : " Its precincts were of old a sanctuary, which was marked by eight erect stones or crosses, some of which were remaining in 1773." * The saint's crosier is thus de- scribed by Dr Joseph Anderson: "The Bachul More, or Great Staff of St Moluag of Lismore, is now in the posses- sion of the Duke of Argyll. It is a plain staff of wood, two feet ten inches in length, retaining in some parts the plates of gilt copper with which it had been covered. Unfortun- ately the curved head is partly broken off, so that its precise form is no longer ascertainable." Dr Anderson adds in a footnote: "A small freehold in the island of Lismore was held for centuries by a family named Livingstone (locally styled the Barons of Bachuill), as the hereditary custodiers of the Bachul More. In 1544 we learn from a grant to one 1 O. S. A., vol. xix. p. 318. ^ Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 408, note. ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 159. * Ibid., p. 347. KILS AND SAINTS. 99 of the ' Barons ' that part of the lands had the name of Peynabachalla." ^ When the see of Argyll was created, circa 1200, it had as its first bishop Harald, chaplain to the Bishop of Dunkeld, in whose diocese Argyll was till then included. We find a trace of Harald in Killespickerrill — i.e., the Church of Bishop Harald, at one time the alternative name of Muckairn parish. Further reference is made to this in chap. xvii. St Neamha or Neamhag, who succeeded St Moluag as abbot in Lismore, and died circa 610, is com- memorated in Kilmonivaig parish, Inverness-shire, whose ancient church is believed to have stood where the present parish church stands — in the angle between the rivers Spean and Lochy. The name of St Munna or Mund is found in Kilmun, a burying-ground ; in Inveraray parish in Kilmun, an estate ; on Loch Avich near Loch Awe ; and in Kilmun on the Holy Loch, in the Firth of Clyde, where the saint founded a church or monastery, and where he is said to have been buried "at a spot locally known as Sith-Mun." Cosmo Innes says : " About the year 1363, Mary, Countess of Menteth, granted to her kinsman Archibald, the son of Sir Colin Campbell of Lochaw, the lands of Kilmun in Cowall for the yearly payment of a pair of Paris gloves at Glasgow Fair."^ The hereditary keeper of the saint's crosier had a croft at Kilmun attached to his office. St Mund was born in Ireland, where he spent his youth. He was anxious to visit St Columba in lona, but did not arrive there till after the latter's death. Baithene, the new abbot, however, received the visitor graciously, but would not enrol him among his monks on the ground that Columba had prophesied that he should not be the monk of any abbot, but should become an abbot of monks. He was accord- ingly sent back to Ireland to found a monastery near the sea in the district of Leinster.^ His connection with Kilmun was of a later date. In early life he was a shepherd, and thus resembled St Cuthbert, who tended sheep on the slopes of the Lammermoors. We have a trace of the latter 1 Scotland in Early Christian Times, First Series, p. 226. ^ O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 72. ' Lives of the Scottish Saints, p. 60. lOO KILS AND SAINTS. in Killiemacuddican, in Kirkcolm parish, Wigtownshire, which Sir Herbert Maxwell interprets as Church of St Cuthbert, — apparently a diminutive of the name of the famous saint. ^ Fintan was an alternative name for St Mund, but we read of another saint of the same name — viz., Fintan, son of Aid ; and it is probably after the latter that the parish of Killintag in Morven was called, the / having dropped out through aspiration. Reeves remarks : " Fintaig may be a form of Fintan, as Colmoc is of Colman," and adds, " There is a small valley at the mouth of Glenroy termed Glenfin- taig, which seems to take its name from the same person as Cillfhintaig or Killintaig." ^ On one occasion when, accompanying St Columba on a journey across Drumalban, Fintan, son of Aid, was seized with sudden and severe ill- ness, his companions asked Columba to pray for his re- covery. This he did, and a cure followed. At the same time Columba prophesied that the young man would live longer than any of those present. Adamnan, who narrates the incident, says that Fintan founded a monastery at Kailli- au-inde, which Skene is inclined to identify with Killun- dine, in the parish of Killintag just mentioned.* St Baithene, named above, can be traced in Kilvean, another name for the estate of Bught near Inverness, or at least of a portion of it. Included in it is Torvean — i.e., St Baithene's Hill, a ridge rising immediately above the Caledonian Canal, and showing traces of early fortifica- tions.* In these names the t has been lost through aspira- tion, and the h has become v from the same cause. St Donan was well known in our western and northern dis- tricts. He was specially identified with the island of Eigg, where he was head of a monastic estabhshment consisting of fifty-two brethren, and where he and all his monks were slain about the year 6i6. Their martyrdom is thus referred to by Dr Skene : " While the people would seem to have been favourable to the little Christian colony es- tablished in the island by Donnan, the rule had passed into the hands of a queen, who was still pagan and em- ' Gall. Top., s.v. "Killiemacuddican." '^ Adamnan, p. 328. '' Ibid., p. 328. i N. S. A., Inverness, p. 14. KILS AND SAINTS. lOI ployed pirates to destroy them, who burnt the wooden church in which they were celebrating the Eucharist, and the whole community accordingly perished." ^ Martin says, in connection with his visit to Eigg : " There is a church here on the East side the Isle dedicated to St Donnan, whose Anniversary they observe. St Donnan's Well, which is in the South- West end, is in great Esteem by the Natives ; for St Donnan is the celebrated Tutelar of this Isle."^ The church referred to by Martin stood at Kildonan. We can trace the influence of the saint elsewhere. Thus we find Kildonan in South Uist ; Kildonan in Kirkmaiden parish, Wigtownshire ; Kildonnen near Campbeltown ; Kil- donan in Arran ; Kildonan in Colmonell parish, Ayrshire ; Kildonnen at Lynedale, Skye ; Kildonen on Little Loch Broom, in Loch Broom parish, Ross-shire ; and Kildonan, a parish in Sutherland.^ Regarding the saint's influence in the parish in question, the Rev. Donald Sage, writing in 1840, remarks : " In my younger days there were many traditions of him afloat in the locality. One of these was, that after his death none could be found to fill his place so as to exert the moral influence which he exercised over the minds of the people. His successor therefore caused a wooden image of him to be made with features of coun- tenance hideous and frightful. If any man proved refrac- tory, he was immediately locked up in the church or cell at Kildonan, alone with this representation of St Donan, during the silence of night; and the consequences invari- ably were that, when brought forth from this confinement next day, the features of the saint and the death-like still- ness of the cell had reduced him to absolute obedience. The cell, as well as the whole parish, from this circumstance was called ' Kil-duranach ' (or ' the sullen cell,' as it means in ancient Celtic)."* A contemporary of St Donan was Talorggain or Talarican, whose sphere of influence is to be found in the north of Scotland. He was patron of Fordyce parish, where his name lingers in St Tarkin's Well; but he was specially identified with the country north of Inverness, where we 1 Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 153. " Western Isles, pp. 278, 279. 2 Adamnan, pp. 296, 297. •* Memorabilia Domestica, p. 97. I02 KILS AND SAINTS. find Cill-Talargyn or Kiltarlity. There is also a trace of him in Skye, where the parish of Portree was formerly known as Ceilltarraglan.^ Kilynaig in Coll, and Killeneck in Mull, had each a chapel dedicated, it is believed, to St Senaic, otherwise Senan or Moshenoc, an Irish saint of the sixth century, whom Dr Todd and Bishop Reeves identify with St Kessog or Makkessoch, patron of Luss.^ In Irish hagiology Senan often occurs as a name. In the ' Martyrology of Donegal ' twenty-two Senans are commemorated, a group of saints not easily distinguishable from one another. An ancient ecclesiastical site on Sanda island, Kintyre, is locally known as Kilmashenaghan or Cill-mo-senchain. On the main- land north of Sanda is the farm of Kilmashanachan, and adjoining it is Rudha M'Shannich, signifying, respectively, the Church and the Promontory of St Senan. In the latter name the honorific prefix has become changed into the patronymic according to a not uncommon process.^ Kilmahunaig, anciently Kilmachummag or Kilchumnack, near Crinan, and Kilmahumaig at the head of Loch Gair, off Loch Fyne, are not easily interpreted. The ma is of course honorific; but who was the saint represented? Have we the same saint in Kilchamaig (otherwise Kil- chammak), in Kilcalmonell parish ? In this name Bishop Forbes finds that of St Commanus or Comanus, and Colonel White that of St Cormac,* the famous voyager. The latter etymology is less likely than the former, but it is not easy to interpret the name. Kilvick O'Charmaig, the former name of the extensive parish of Knapdale, is commonly said to mean the Church of the son of Charmaig or Cormac. Bishop Forbes makes Charmaig and Cormac different persons, but rather incon- sistently connects both with Kirkcormac in Kirkcudbright- shire. As indicated above, patronymic and honorific pre- fixes are sometimes mistaken for one another ; and in this case what seems to be the patronymic is probably the ' N. S. A., Inverness, p. 218. ^ Martyrolog-y of Donegal, s.v. " Moshennock." ■' Archajological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, pp. 82, 88. ■• Ibid., p. 141. KILS AND SAINTS. IO3 honorific prefix. This is all the more likely to be the case when we remember that among older forms of the name are Kilmakcorme (a.d. 1551), Kilmaharmuk (a.d. 1561), and Kilmachormuk (a.d. 1621). In Martin's time St Cormac was familiarly known in Islay as MacCharmig. In the case of Kilviceuen in Mull, Bishop Reeves holds that the prefix is patronymic. He says : " Kilviceun is Cill- mhic - Eogain, Ecclesia filii Eugenii. There is no Mac Eoghain in the Irish Calendar ; but Ernan mac Eoghain, St Columba's nephew, is entered at Jan. i."^ In Ulva there is another Kilviceuen. Kilfinichen parish in Mull, now united to Kilviceuen, probably signifies the Church of St Findchan, one of Columba's monks. Cosmo Innes says : " The church, dedicated perhaps to Saint Fincana the Virgin, one of the nine daughters of Saint Dovenald, stood in the south of the parish, on the north shore of Loch Scriden."^ The Rev. J. B. Johnston does not entirely dismiss the claim of the maiden of the Den of Ogilvie, though on the whole he is inclined to champion that of the monk of lona.^ St Find- chan appears in a curious light in the pages of Adamnan, by whom he is described as the founder of a monastery in Tiree. He is represented as having taken part in the unlawful ordination of a certain bloodthirsty man. In consequence of this act, Columba prophesied that Find- chan's right hand would decay away and precede him to the grave by many years — a prophecy which Adamnan says was duly fulfilled.* Murdoch — probably the St Mordouch invoked among the martyrs of the Dunkeld Litany — had a connection with the west country, if we may believe Dempster, who says that he was a hermit, and had a humble cell near a certain lake in Argyll, his cell being called Kilmurdah. Dempster further says that there was a life of the saint in nine lections, and that the events narrated in it were depicted on the walls of his cell. He is described as the last of the bards, and is said to have lived about 800 a.d.^ 1 Adamnan, p. 243. ^ O. P. S., vol. iv. p. 314. ^ Scottish Place-Names, s.v. " Kilfinichen." * Adamnan, lib. i. cap. 36. * Hist. Eccl., vol. ii. p. 474. 104 KILS AND SAINTS. We find a trace of him on the east coast — not, however, in a Ml — in Inverkeillor parish, Forfarshire, as described by Jervise, who says: "The ruins of the kirk of Ethie or S. Murdoch stand in a lonely and romantic spot near the cliffs east of the Redhead. Like the kirk of S. Skae and similarly situated places of worship, that of S. Murdoch possibly owed its origin to some recluse who had taken up his abode there with the view of affording succour to ship- wrecked sailors and pilgrims along the coast." ^ Bute was the chief seat of the cultus of St Catan and of his nephew St Blane, otherwise Blaan, who was trained in Ireland by Comgal and Kenneth, and afterwards returned to Bute, where he is said to have been born, and where he founded a monastery at Kilblane in Kingarth parish. Dr J. K. Hewison observes regarding the spot : " On Blaan's return to Bute he fixed upon a nook among the southern hills wherein to found the church that bears his name, and to rear the monastic establishment over which he presided. The site is cunningly disposed to bask in sunshine, while it has a prominent outlook over hill, dale, and sea. Behind is Suidhe Chatain (516 feet) ; before uprears the grassy Suidhe Bhlain (400 feet) — the favourite seat of the abbot, and near which, on the north slope, the country people pointed out a hollow in a stone which they said was the impression of his foot." 2 In the same parish are Kilchattan Bay and the farms of Meikle and Little Kilchattan. On the latter farm is St Catan's Well, near the site, as Dr Hewison thinks, of the original church. "The well is carefully built, and is ap- proached by some ten stone steps. It is now covered, but still in use."^ In Inveraray parish is Kilblane, with an ancient burying-ground, in use till towards the end of the eighteenth century. In Kintyre was the ancient parish of Kilblane, now included in Southend. Its church stood in the Conieglen valley ; but the site alone remains, all trace of church and burying-ground having disappeared by the end of the eighteenth century. About a couple of miles higher up the valley are the now ruined farmstead and hill of " Epitaphs and Inscriptions, vol. i. p. 318. " Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 174. s Ibid., p. 137, note. KILS AND SAINTS. 105 Kilchattan, near an old burying-ground with some slight remains of a wall, probably of a chapel.^ Kilchattan parish, now united to Kilbrandon, comprises the islands of Luing, Shuna, and Torsay, along with some smaller islands. The church of St Catan stood at the south end of Luing.^ There is a Kilchattan in the island of Gigha, off the west coast of Kintyre. When describing the island, Muir says : " Supposing the visitor to be in pursuit more of things gray than of things green, his earliest inquiry will in all likelihood be for the ruined church of St Catan, perhaps the most interesting antiquity in the island. It is a roofless, though in other respects not much wasted, building, internally 33 feet in length and 15 feet 2 inches in width. The door- way has apparently been on the south-west. Lying within the recess of the east window is the basin of a large octagonal font, the cavity circular, and, as is often the case, flat-bottomed; and in the burying-ground are some sculp- tured slabs and a broken cross 5 feet in length." ^ Martin says : " Near the west side the church there is a stone of about 16 Foot high, and 4 broad, erected upon the Eminence. About 60 yards distance from the Chappel there is a square stone erected about 10 Foot high ; at this the antient In- habitants bowed, because it was there where they had the first View of the church." * The parish of Jura was formerly known as Kilearnadale and Kilchattan, and included Colonsay, on the west side of which is Kilchattan, where St Catan 's church was situated. St Catan is said to have resided for a time in a monastic house at Stornoway in the Lews. At Scarinche, in the same island, according to Spottiswood, a chapel was founded by the MacLeods in honour of St Catan ; and in it tradition says that his relics were preserved.* Kilearnadale in Jura, above named, was otherwise called Kilernadill. The name is difficult to interpret. Martin ^ ArchEeological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, pp. 89, 90. 2 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 100. ^ Eccles. Notes, p. 10. ^ Western Isles, p. 229. 5 For the connection of Catan with Clan Chattan vide Introduction to Macpherson's "The Loyall Dissuasive," edited by the Rev. D. Murdoch (Scottish History Society) ; and Keith's 'Scottish Bishops,' p. 393. Io6 KILS AND SAINTS. calls it Killearn. We have Killearn in Stirlingshire and Killern in Anwoth parish, Kirkcudbrightshire.^ With regard to the last - mentioned Killern, Sir Herbert Maxwell is doubtful whether it is a dedication to St Kieran or, as Timothy Font's rendering (Kill-orin) suggests, to St Oran, a contemporary of St Columba, who is remembered in Killoran in Colonsay.^ Killearnan, a parish in Ross-shire, and Killearnan, a township in Kildonan parish, Sutherland, recall St Ernan. Near the latter, Killearnan, is Cnoc-Ernaini — i.e., St Ernan's Hill. It is difficult to say to which of the Ernans these two kils were dedicated. Bishop Forbes thinks that the Ross- shire one commemorates Ernan, a nephew of St Columba. Ernan of Rathnew, in Ireland, appears in the honorific dis- guise of Mernock or Marnock in the name of Kilmarnock in Ayrshire. In the ' Breviary of Aberdeen,' under date 25th October, is the festival " Sancti Mernoci epyscopi et con- fessoris patroni de Kilmernoch." ^ There is another Kil- marnock in Inverchaolain parish, Argyll. In the early part of the eighth century two missionaries — St Modan and St Ronan — preached in Scotland, and ac- cording to Skene were probably associated in the same mission. We find the former at Kilmodan in the Cowal district of Argyll. Regarding it Principal Story remarks: " The parish church, which, though a recent building, is on the ancient site, stands near the flat sandy shores of the Loch Riddon, where the Ruel, which gives its name to Glendaruel, discharges its shallow waters." * The Rev. J. Maclachlan, minister of Kilmodan parish, writes : " We have St Modan's well and chapel. The ruins of the chapel are on the hillside, about half a mile to the north-east of the present church. Tradition has it that the oldest grave- stones in the present churchyard were taken from the chapel ruins." St Ronan can be traced in Kilmaronogin Muckairn parish, Argyll, and in Kilmaronock, a parish in Dumbarton- ' Mr Johnston says: "All the Killerns, with small likelihood, have been derived from St Cieran of Clonmacnoise (545) ; c lost by aspiration." — 'Scottish Place-names,' s.t;. "Killearn." •^ Gall. Top., s.v. "Killern." » Adamnan, p. 251. * St Modan of Rosneath, p. 17. KILS AND SAINTS. lO/ shire, both names showing the usual honorific prefix and suffix. We find the same saint also in the east country — viz., at Kilmaron in Cupar parish, Fife. Near the eastern boundary of the lands of Kilmaron, the ruins of a small chapel were visible till towards the end of the eighteenth century.^ St Ronan is believed to have died as Abbot of Kingarth about the year 737. Probably about the same time there flourished a saint whose name appears in Hector Boece under the form of Glascianus. Boece says : — " Glacianus als of grit auctoritie, Ane archibischop and grit prechour wes he."^ The saint may have been a bishop, but he was certainly not an archbishop. He has left a trace of himself in Kil- maglass, otherwise Kilmalash — the old name of Strachur parish in the Cowal district of Argyll. About a century before the time of Glascianus our eastern coast was visited by St Boniface, who founded a church at Invergowrie, in the Carse of Gowrie. One of his followers was Pensandus, whose name is found in Kilspindie in the same district, and perhaps also in Kilspindie, near Aberlady, in East Lothian, where there is said to have been an early monastic settlement.* ^ O. S. A-, vol. xvii. p. 147. ^ Stewart's Metrical Translation, vol. ii. pp. 368, 369. ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 520. CHAPTER VIII. KILS AND SAINTS — Continued. Killantringan — Kilninian — Kilmartin — Kilmachalmalg — Kiltnaichlie — Kd- quonell — Kildonell — - Kilforman — Kilconquhar — Kilrenny — Kllmalisaig — Closeburn — Kilmahog — Kilbartha — Kildorais — KUniaxter — Kil- chrinan — Killevin — Kilneualr — Kills t ay — Kll- nam- brathairn - kill — Kilmorich — Kilmaurs — Kilbucho — Kilbagie — Kylmalduff' — Kilminning — Kilmany — KilmalHe — Kilmadock — Kilda-vie — Kilfinan — Kilivinrdng — Killenane — Killallan — ICtlfillan — Killylour — Kilchoan — Kilduthie — Kilduich — Kilbarr — Kilmarie, ^c. — Cillabhruic — Kilrule. St Ninian of Whithorn is to be found in Killantringan in Portpatrick parish, Wigtownshire; in the lands of Kil St Ninian in Girvan parish, Ayrshire ; and in Kil St Ninian in Urquhart and Glenmoriston parish, Inverness-shire, — styled in Gaelic Cill-an-Trinnein. With regard to Kilninian in Mull, one would naturally infer, as Cosmo Innes does, that the name embodies that of the apostle of Galloway ; but an attempt has been made to find in it the name of Nennidius, a friend of St Bridget.^ In 1561 Kilninian was written " Kilnoening." The cultus of St Martin of Tours, as we saw in chap, iv., was introduced into Scotland by St Ninian in connection with the dedication of his Candida casa at Whithorn, and there is no doubt that St Martin was popular in our early Celtic Church, for we learn from Adamnan that at lona his name was remembered in the devotions of the monks.' In the ancient parish of Cullicudden in the Black Isle is Kil- martin, where the original church of St Martin is believed ' Scottish Land-Names, p. 172, and Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kil- ninian." " Life of St Columba, p. 86. KILS AND SAINTS. 109 to have stood. Kilmuir parish in Skye has a Kilmartin, and in Argyll is the parish of Kilmartin, containing a village of the same name, immediately to the north of which are the ruins of Kilmartin Castle, where the rectors of the parish are said to have resided.^ St Colman of Dromore in Ireland, who flourished circa 500 A.D., has probably given his name to the farms of Colmac or Calmac in North Bute, styled till recently Kil- machalmaig. Writing in 1893, Dr J. K. Hewison remarks : " There are now no remains of the chapel which stood on East Colmac ; and the traces of the cemetery, visible at the end of last century, are totally obliterated now. One relic of this seat of worship alone survives in the massive flat- faced boulder of trap with its deeply incised cross preserved in a field." ^ In Kincardine parish, Sutherland, is Kil- machalmag, beside the river Oikel, where a chapel once stood. Kilchalman in North Uist seems also to have the name of St Colman, but without the honorific prefix and suflix. Manxmen visiting Scotland ought to turn their steps to Chapelton of Kilmaichlie, in Inveraven parish, on the Spey, for the kit there was dedicated to St Machalus, Maccald, or Maughold, familiar to them in Kirk Maughold and Maughold Head near Ramsey. Machalus led a wild life in Ireland till arrested by a miracle said to have been wrought by St Patrick. What happened thereafter is thus told by the Rev. S. Baring-Gould : " On asking what penance he should undergo for his crimes, St Patrick ordered him to quit Ire- land without taking anything with him except a coarse garment, and entrusting himself in a leather coracle to land in the first place whither the wind wafted him, and there to serve God. He obeyed, and was carried by the winds to the Isle of Man, where he was kindly received by two bishops, Conindrus and Romulus, who directed him in his penances, and with so much spiritual advantage that he succeeded them as bishop of the island, and became re- nowned for his sanctity. He is called Maughold in the Isle of Man, and probably lies buried in the church that ^ N. S. A., Argyll, p. 559. ^ Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 116. no KILS AND SAINTS. bears his name, which is remarkable for some ancient sculptured crosses in the churchyard." ^ In a charter of 1541 reference is made to Kilquhonell, on the lands of Ardstinchar in Carrick.^ The kil in question was evidently dedicated to St Connell, whose name occurs in several Kirkconnells in our south-western shires. Kil- donnell, near Campbeltown, is believed to commemorate St Donnel or Domhnuill, regarding whom we have no bio- graphical details. There is a Kilforman Cairn in Birnie parish, Elginshire, but the name is difficult to interpret.^ Kilconquhar in Fife is also perplexing. The local pronun- ciation — Kinuchar — does not help us. Conquhar may be Cunchar, otherwise Cunuchar, a thane of Angus; but is the prefix cill a church, or is it coille, a wood, as Mr Liddall suggests ? An answer is not easy. Kilrenny, also in Fife, is another perplexing name. Mr Liddall thinks that it means " ferny wood." Various saints — e.g., St Ringan (Ninian), St Irenseus of Lyons, and St Ethernan — have been suggested in connection with the naming of the church. The writer of the parish article in the ' O. S. A.'* remarks: "The name of this parish seems to be derived from the saint to whom the church was dedi- cated — viz., St Irenaeus, Bishop of Lyons, whose fame for piety was at that time great throughout Christendom. What serves to confirm this origin of the name is that the fishermen who have marked out the steeple of this church for a mark to direct them at sea call it St Irnie to this day ; and the estate which lies close by the church is called Irnie- hill, but by the transposition of the letter i, Rinniehill. What adds to the probability of this interpretation is a tradition still existing here, that the devotees at Anstruther who could not see the church of Kilrenny till they travelled up the rising ground to what they called the Hill, then pulled off their bonnets, fell on their knees, crossed themselves, and prayed to St Irnie." Kilmalisaig, in North Knapdale parish, evidently embodies the same name as Eccles- Malesoch, the old name of Carluke parish, Lanarkshire, referred to in chap, iv., but it ' Lives of the Saints, s.v. " Maccald " (2stli April). » R. M. S. a N. s. A., Elgin, p. 86. -" Vol. i. p. 409. KILS AND SAINTS. Ill is difficult to discover the saint who is hidden in the name. Closeburn parish, Dumfriesshire, written in the twelfth century " Kylosbern," is the church of St Osbern. Kil- mahog, near Callander, is the church of St Chug ; and Kilbartha, the former name of the Aberdeenshire parish of Towie, looks like the church of St Bartha, but in all three cases biographical facts are lacking. It is also difficult to say much about names like Kildorais and Kilvaxter in Skye, Kilchrinan in Mull, Killevin (otherwise Killenewen) and Kilneuair in Glassary parish, Killstay in Kirkmaiden parish, and Kil-nam-brathairn-kill, the old name of Lochgoilhead parish. Kilmorich, now included in the last -mentioned parish, has been conjecturally associated with St Muredach — a bishop at Killala in Ireland, circa 440 a.d. ; ^ but we may with more probability find in it a reminiscence of Moroc, an abbot of Dunkeld, who gave name to the Mains of Kilmorick near Dowally, where is St Muireach's Well, and to Kilmorack parish, Inverness- shire, whose church stood near the falls of Kilmorack, on the river Beauly. In 1521 Kilmorack was written " Kilmoricht." On Blaeu's map there is a " Kilnamoraik," close to Loch Lochy. St Maura and St Beya were virgins who, according to Adam King's Calendar, flourished during the second half of the ninth century. Maura used to visit Beya in Little Cumbrae, where the latter lived in solitude, " surrounded by beasts and birds," where she was buried, and where the remains of her chapel are still visible. She was honoured at Dunbar, where the Collegiate Church was dedicated to her.^ A hint of her is still to be met with at Dunbar in the name of Bey's Well Park, a terrace facing the sea, in the neighbourhood of a spring dedicated to her. Maura is found in the name of Kilmaurs in Ayrshire, regarding which the authors of 'The Arms of the Baronial and Police Burghs of Scotland'^ observe: "It may be worth while mentioning for the benefit of those interested in hagiology, 1 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 82, note; and Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kil- morich." 2 In the ' Register of St Giles ' (p. 224) we read, " Johannes Quhyte preben- darius de Petcokis in ecclesia CoUegiata Sancte Baye Virginis de Dunbar." 3 P. 286. 112 KILS AND SAINTS. that Kilmaurs is said to be the only church dedicated to the virgin Maura dissociated from Baya. Maura is said to have died at Kilmaurs, and Baya in the Little Cumbrae, of which she is generally regarded as the patroness. Their feast will be found on November 3 in the 'Aberdeen Breviary,' where it is also said that Baya is specially honoured at Dunbar. In the diocese of Beauvais there is a festival on July 13 in honour of Maura and Brigida, who are there styled martyrs, with a vague statement that they were Northumbrian, and their identity or otherwise with the patroness of Kilmaurs and her friend may supply an interesting subject for study." St Begha — a different person from Beya — was an abbess in the seventh century. She is to be found south of the Tweed in St Bees in Cum- berland and in Beaminster in Dorset ; while in Scotland we find her in Kilbucho in Peeblesshire, an ancient parish now united to Broughton and Glenholm. There are traces of the old church, close to which is St Bees' Well, at one time held in reverence. Cosmo Innes remarks : " The church lies near the eastern extremity of the parish, not far from the mouth of the Kilbucho burn, where doubtless it was planted in early times. It was dedicated to Saint Begha, the virgin whose festival was kept by the Scottish Church on the day of her deposition, the thirty-first of October. She was of Irish birth, but, passing into Britain, became the disciple of Saint Aidan and of Saint Hilda, in whose convent at Whitby her relics were preserved until the sixteenth century." ^ St Begha is probably also to be found in Kil- bagie in Clackmannanshire, and in Kilbegie — a glebe con- nected in 1587 with the vicarage of Kilmakocharmik in North Knapdale. Kilbag-head in Lochs parish may recall either St Beya or St Begha.^ The lands of Kylemagage, near Loch Leven, are referred to by Bishop Forbes in connection with a Fife retour, and he thinks that the name embodies that of St Gains, one of the companions of St Adrian, said to have been martyred by the Danes on the Isle of May in the year 875.* Inver- aray parish, or at least part of it, was styled Kylmalduff in 1 O. p. S., vol. i. p. 177. 2 Kal., s.v. "Begha" and "Beya." 5 Ibid., s.v. "Gaius." KILS AND SAINTS. II3 1304 and Kilmalew in 1529, the second being in all likeli- hood an altered form of the first, through the loss of the d by aspiration. Both forms seem to point to Malduff, — believed to have been from Ireland, — who was so molested by robbers that he fled into England. After various wanderings he settled at a place called Ingelbourne Castle, where he gathered round him a monastic establishment, the nucleus of the present Wiltshire town of Malmesbury,^ in whose name the first syllable of Malduff is embedded. Kilminning, in Crail parish, Fife, indicates St Monan or Monyn, whose name appears in St Monans in the same county. The writer of the article on Crail parish in the ' N. S. A.' - remarks : " There was no doubt a cell or chapel dedicated to St Minin or Monan at Kilminning farm, the corn-yard of which is still full of graves, like a regular burying-ground." Kilmany, in the north of the county, written " Kylmanyn " in 1250, is thought by Mr Johnston to have been probably a dedication to St Monan. Mr Liddall thinks that the name means Wood of Maine, ancestor of the Irish tribe of Hy Maine.^ Kilmeny in Islay is difficult to interpret. Kilmallie in Lochaber, written in 1296 Kilmalyn, and Kilmallie, the ancient name of Golspie parish, Sutherland, written in 1471 Culmalin, probably both record the name of St Moling. With regard to the latter instance, Mr E. W. B. Nicholson says: "Who was St Malin ? His name is unknown in that form. But I believe I have found him in the celebrated Irish saint commonly known as Moling, who died in 697, and who is called Maling in a MS. so near to his own time as the eighth century."* KilmalHe church was the parish church of Golspie till 1619, when it was superseded by the chapel of St Andrew at what is now the town of Golspie, about two miles distant. At the hamlet of Kilmallie are traces of the ancient church, with a graveyard containing the tombs of many of the Earls of Sutherland.^ St MoHng adopted a monastic life, and was 1 Appendix, F. : Taylor's ' Names and their Histories,' s.v. " Malmsbury." ^ Fife, p. 966. ' Liddall's Fife and Kinross Place-Names, s.v. " Kilmany." * Golspie, p. 268. '' N. S. A., Sutherland, p. 33. H 114 KILS AND SAINTS. the founder of Teghmoling, now St Mullen's in county Carlow. He was bishop of Ferns in Wexford during the last six years of his life."^ Another Irish saint who was bishop at the same place, though at an earlier date, was Aidan, or, with the honorific prefix and suffix, Madoc or Modoc.^ He was born in 558, and died in 625. He spent a considerable time in Wales, and was one of the disciples of St David. Indeed, he was so identified with the Principality that he was regarded as almost a Welshman. The Perthshire parish of Kilmadock, where stand the picturesque ruins of Doune Castle, is commonly said to bear his name.^ There is another St Madoc, a Welshman, whose church in the Principality is Llanmadoc, in Glamorganshire. It is presumably to this saint that Skene alludes when he attributes the dedication of Kilmadock to Modocus through the influence of the Welsh Calendar, though it may possibly be the first-men- tioned St Modoc to whom he refers.* There is, however, a difficulty in connecting the name of St Madoc, whether the Irish or the Welsh saint, with Kilmadock, and that is the pronunciation of the name, the stress of the voice being on the ultimate and not on the penultimate syllable. One is therefore tempted to regard the ma, not as part of a saint's name, but as the common honorific prefix, leaving dock to be accounted for. According to this view, Kilmadock would thus be the Church of my Dock. But who was St Dock ? The church of Cambuslang had St Cadocus as its titular, an abbreviated form of whose name is Docus, to be found probably in the Cornish parish of Ladoc or Landoc — i.e., the Church of St Docus. We learn from the life of the saint that he spent some years in Central Scotland ; and it seems reasonable to conclude that he left his name in Kilmadock.^ In Kintyre is Kildavie, regarding which Colonel White 1 Baring-Gould's Lives of the Saints, s.v. "Moling-" (17th June). '^ Vide an Article on St Modoc by Bishop Reeves in ' Transactions of Royal Irish Academy,' vol. viii. p. 446. ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. i. p. 245, note. * Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 193, note. ° Ree's Cambro-British Saints, p. 350 ; and Borlase's The Age of the Saints, p. 146. KILS AND SAINTS. I15 observes : "In the name of Kildavie, which is found at- tached to a group of farms a little to the north of S. Coivin's, we may perhaps trace a dedication to an ancient Irish ecclesiastic, Davius — if not, as might have been imagined, to the renowned "Welsh saint, David." ^ On the whole, one is inclined to conclude that this Kildavie, like Kildavie in Mull, recalls the Irish rather than the Welsh saint; while the reverse may perhaps be said of Cill Daidh, an ancient burying-ground in Weem parish, Perthshire, referred to in chap. iii. Kilfinnan parish, in the Cowal district of Argyll, com- memorates St Finan ; but there is some difficulty in deciding to which saint of that name its church was dedicated. Cosmo Innes says : " The church appears to have been dedicated to St Finan, Bishop of Lindisfarne, who flourished about the year 650." ^ Bishop Forbes ascribes it to Finan, otherwise Finian, a saint of Irish birth, who died ciixa 575, and from whom he thinks Lumphanan in Aberdeenshire derived its name.^ Another Finan founded a monastery at Clonard in Meath, where he had St Columba as one of his pupils. St Finan, another of Columba's teachers, and founder of the monastery of Maghbile in county Down, went to Italy and became Bishop of Lucca, where he was known as St Frigidianus. He died circa 579. Bishop Reeves identifies him with St Vynninus, otherwise Wynnin, who, according to the ' Aberdeen Breviary,' was buried at a place called Kilwynne — i.e., Kilwinning, in Ayrshire, where was St Wynning's Well, and where a stately abbey was reared in honour of St Wynning and St Mary by Hugh de Morville, Lord of Cunninghame, about the middle of the twelfth century. In the northern parish of Dunlichity there was till 1643 " ane Idolatrous Image called St Finane, keepit in a private house obscurely," regarding which Mr William Mackay writes: "The image called St Finane, which the Protestant people of Dunlichity worshipped as late as the year 1643, deserved a better fate than burning at the market cross of Inverness after sermon. Probably the ' Archaeological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, p. 89. 2 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 49. ' Kal., s.v. "Finan." Il6 KILS AND SAINTS. ministers who did the burning did not know that they were destroying the last representation, rude and imaginary though it might be, of one of the most earnest evangelists of the early Celtic Church." i The festival of St Finan of Clonard, mentioned above, falls in December. When discussing Highland lore, the Rev. J. G. Campbell says: " St Finan's Eve is the longest night in the year, and hence it is said of a very stupid person, ' He is as dark as the night of St Finan, and that night is pretty dark.'"^ In Inverchaolain parish is a place variously called Killenane and Killelane, the first form embodying, accord- ing to Cosmo Innes, St Finan, and the second St Fillan, the /being lost through aspiration in both cases. We find St Fillan's name in Killellan, an estate near Campbeltown; in Killallan, a Renfrewshire parish (now united to Houston) containing the ruined church of St Fillan, anciently the property of Paisley Abbey ; ^ and in Killellan, near Loch- alsh, in Ross -shire. It is curious, in connection with the Inverchaolain example just mentioned, that, in the ' Registrum de Passelet,' Killallan is written " Kyllinan." In Islay is Killinallin, which, Captain Thomas thinks, is either " Cillean n' Fhaelan, St Faelan's Church, or Cillean Fhaelain, little Church of St Faelan." * Galloway has two Kilfillans — viz., the church of Kilfillan on Penkilnburn in Sorbie parish, and Kilfillan farm in Old Luce parish. Sir Herbert Maxwell suggests that Killylour in Kirkpatrick- Irongray parish is perhaps Cill an-lobhair — i.e., St Fillan the Leper's Church, this being the saint who gave name to St Fillans at the foot of Loch Earn.^ In the district of Lochalsh, where Killellan just named is situated, another Ml — viz., Kilchoan, i.e., St Congan's Church — is to be found. Congan was uncle of Fillan, being brother of Kentigerna, the latter's mother. The Rev. S. Baring-Gould remarks: "St Congan, more correctly Comgan, was the son of a prince of Leinster, and was in youth trained as a soldier. On succeeding his father he ' Inverness and Dingwall Presbytery Records, Intro., p. xxxvt. '' Witchcraft and Second Sight in the Scottish Highlands, p. 289. " Crawfurd's History of Renfrewshire, p. 103. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvi. p. 267. IS Gall. Top., s.v. "Killylour." KILS AND SAINTS. I17 governed his dominions with prudence and rectitude ; but on being attacked by his neighbours he was conquered and obliged to fly, wounded in the foot by an arrow. The expulsion of Congan from his kingdom led also to that of his sister and her sons. Accordingly Congan, with Kentigerna and her son Fillan, and seven clerks, betook themselves to Lochelch, where they led a severe life. After the death of his uncle, St Fillan built a church in his honour, and buried him in lona." ' Among other hils recalling St Congan may be mentioned Kilchoan in Kil- tearn parish ; Kilchoan in Knoydart ; Kilchoan in Ardna- murchan, where the ruins of the ancient church stand on the bank of a small stream flowing into Kilchoan Bay ; Kil- choan in Kilbrandon and Kilchattan parish ; and Kilchonan in the Braes of Rannoch, where the burying-ground of St Congan's church remains, though the church has vanished. St Duthac, whose shrine at Tain was the goal of many a mediaeval pilgrimage, had two Mis bearing his name. One of these, mentioned by Bishop Forbes, is Kilduthie, near the Loch of Leys — a large sheet of water in Banchory- Ternan parish, drained about the middle of last century ; the other is Kilduich, situated at the head of Loch Duich, in Kintail parish, Ross-shire, loch and church having both borrowed the name of the saint. St Finbar, or more shortly Barr, patron of Cork in Ireland, was popular also in Scotland. His name, as Bishop Reeves explains, means literally "white head," in allusion to the colour of his hair.^ The ' Martyrology of Aberdeen ' says that he was a bishop in Caithness, and that he died there. His death is believed to have occurred circa 623. When the Cathedral of Caithness was founded at Dornoch, in the first half of the thirteenth century, the building was dedicated to St Finbar ; and it is interesting to note that the church of Fowey in Cornwall, at the other extremity of our island, was also dedicated to him.^ At the north end of Barray is Kilbarr, an ancient ecclesi- ^ Lives of the Saints, vol. x. p. 325. ^ Adamnan, p. 266. ' In 1336 the church of Fowey vifas rebuilt and re-dedicated, St Nicholas supplanting- St Fmha^r.— Vide Borlase's ' The Age of the Saints,' p. 129. Il8 KILS AND SAINTS. astical site consisting of three ruined churches or chapels grouped together in an unenclosed burying-ground ; while not far off are the foundations of another place of worship.^ One of these must have been the church on whose altar, as Martin tells us, the wooden image of St Barr used to stand "covered with Linen in form of a shirt." Martin adds the following local tradition : " ' The inhabitants having begun to build the church, which they dedicated to him, they laid this Wooden Image within it ; but it was invisibly trans- ported (as they say) to the Place where the Church now stands, and found there every morning.' This miraculous conveyance is the Reason they give for desisting to work where they first began." ^ After referring to the image, the writer on Barray parish in the ' N. S. A.'^ observes: "We are credibly informed that it was customary for persons proceeding on a journey to make some present to the saint of clothes or linen to ensure prosperity to their under- taking." Bishop Reeves remarks : " Next to St Columcille there is no ecclesiastic of the ancient Scottish Church whose com- memorations are more numerous in the west of Scotland than St Maelrubha, or whose history is marked with greater exactness in the main particulars of his life. He was born on the 3rd of January in the year of our Lord 642. On his father's side he was eighth in descent from Niall of the Nine Hostages, Sovereign of Ireland. Our saint, following the national usage of family association, became a member of St Comgall's society at Bangor. His connection with this place seems to have been kept up even after he fixed his seat in Scotland, and his principal church in that country was regarded as an affiliation of Bangor. In the year 671 Maelrubha, being now twenty-nine years old, with- drew from his native country to Alba, following in the wake of St Columba and others of his nation. Two years expired before he obtained a permanent settlement ; but in 673, as Tighernach relates, ' Maelrubha fundavit ecclesiam Apor- crosan.' Here he continued to exercise his abbatial office for fifty-one years, during which time he founded a church 1 Muir's Eccles. Notes, pp. 281, 282. 2 Western Isles, p. 92. ^ Inverness, p. 206. KILS AND SAINTS. II9 on an island in a lake of Ross-shire which takes its name of Loch Maree from him ; and he acquired so great a reputa- tion for sanctity that he was regarded as the patron saint of this part of Scotland, whence he extended his influence both in islands and on the mainland. In 722 he closed his labours." ^ St Maelrubha's name has undergone a great variety of curious changes, as explained by Bishop Reeves, who cites nearly forty different forms, including such extremes as Arrow and Summereve, the latter combining both name and title. Some of these changes show themselves in con- nection with the kits bearing his name. Thus Kilmarie in the south-west of Strath parish, Skye, where there are the remains of a chapel, is Maelrubha's, not Mary's, church ; and the same may be said of Kilvary in Muckairn parish, six and a half miles north-east of Oban, near the road to Loch Etive. Kilmorie, the ancient name of Stralachlane parish, united to Strachur in 1650, is believed by Bishop Reeves to be Maelrubha's church. He also holds that the church of Kilmorie (the ancient name of Craignish parish), which is called in a Retour " Kilmalrew," was under the same invocation. Regarding Maelrubha's name Professor Mackinnon remarks: " In its contracted form the name has sometimes been confounded with Mary. In Gaelic Mary is Moire; and the church of Mary is Cille-Mhoire, Englished ' Kilmory's.' Besides, the accent is always on the penult — Kilmory ; whereas in the case of the contracted Maolrubha the accent falls on the final syllable." ^ In Islay is the parish of Killarrow, now united to Kil- meny. Its church stood about the centre of the island, and there is no doubt that Maelrubha was its titular ; for among many variants of its name may be mentioned Kilmolrow in 1500 A.D. Blaeu marks a Kilmolruy in Bracadale, Skye. Dr Reeves says in connection with it : " St Assint was the patron saint of Bracadale proper. The annual tryst is in September, probably the early part, new style, or the close of August, old style— that is, about St Maree's day." His 1 P. S. A. Scot., vol. iii. pp. 261, 262. The account, ut supra, has been somewhat abbreviated. ^ Scotsman, Article No. ix. I20 KILS AND SAINTS. day was on the 27th of August. Arasaig parish, now united to Ardnamurchan, had a church formerly styled " Kilmolroy in Arisik," recalling, like those mentioned above, the patron saint of Applecross. Two kils may be mentioned in conclusion which, though not to be found on our maps, are or were familiar to many acquainted with Gaelic. These are Kilrule — i.e., the Church of St Rule or Regulus, applied by Highlanders to St Andrews; ^ and Cilia Bhruic — i.e., St Brioc's Church, used to designate the parish of Rothesay in Bute, where a fair is still held on what is called " Bruix Day." ^ ^ O. S. A., vol. xiii. p. 188. Bellenden says: "He [Kenneth] translatit the bischoppis sete of Abirnethy to the kirk of Sanct Reule ; quhilk was namit efter the kirk of Sanct Andros." — 'Chronicles,' vol. ii. p. 165. ^ Hewison's Bute in the Olden Time, pp. 16, 100. CHAPTER IX. KIRKS. Kil and kirk — Distribution of kirk — Kirkton — Kirkland — Kirhhill, i^c. — Kirkcairns — Halkirk — Kirkholm — Kirkness — Kirkden — Kirkcaldy — Kirkurd — Kirkstyle — Kirkskeith — Wheelkirk — Kirks of Eskdale — Wester kirk — Kirkstead, isfc Kirkhall and Glenkirk — Kirkivood — " Ktrk-wodheid" — Ashkirk — Woodkirk — Hobkirk — Kirkhope — Kirk- Tetholm — Kirkliston — Kirk Borthwick — Kirkforthar — Muirkirk, ^c. — Prestonkirk — Kirkwall — Kirkside, i^c. — Redkirk — Whitekirk — Falkirk— " Auld Kirk "—" New Kirk "—Kirk Newton. Kil and kirk have practically the same meaning. The one, as we have seen, is from Latin cella; the other is from Greek Kvpiaxov, the neuter adjective from Kvpio<;, the Lord. This etymology is accepted by Skeat, who holds that the Icelandic kirkja is borrowed from the Anglo-Saxon cyrice or cirice, whence we have kirk. Sir Herbert Maxwell remarks, "The Gael borrowed the A.S. cite or the Norse kirkja."''- This borrowing, however, was not frequent. Sometimes a place was kil first and afterwards kirk. Thus Kilmabreck became Kirkmabreck ; and Kildominie, Kirkdominie : but kil was not always superseded, as the existing kils, already referred to, amply show. Regarding kirk south of the Tweed, Canon Taylor says : "We find the prefix kirk, a church, in the names of no less than sixty-eight places in the Danelagh, while in the Saxon portion of England we find it scarcely once." ^ In the Isle 1 Land -Names, p. 174. For examples of kirk not sig-nifying- church •vide Appendix, G. ^ Words and Places, p. 357. 122 KIRKS, of Man, where Norse influence was strong, "all the parish churches, with two exceptions, have the prefix hirh." ^ A group of houses close to the site of a church is often known as Kirkton — i.e., kirk town, from A.S. tun, a home- stead or enclosure, corresponding, as we shall see in chap, xxix., to Kirkby and Kirby in England. A division of land pertaining to a church was naturally called the kirkland or the kirklands. The kirklands of Cavers were reckoned synonymous with the parish of Cavers ; ^ but, as a rule, the name was given to only a portion of a parish. Kirk- land is a village in Wemyss parish, Fife, on the river Leven. Kirkland, called also Kirkfieldbank, is a village in Lesmahagow parish on the Clyde, one mile west of Lanark. Near it once stood a chapel known as the Chapel of Greenrig. There is a Kirkland hamlet in Kirkcudbright parish, less than a mile from the ruined kirk of the ancient parish of Galtway, united to Kirkcudbright about 1683. There are various other places called Kirkland or Kirklands, mainly in the southern half of Scotland. At Dumfries, near the Moat Brae, is Kirkland Moat, a mound on the left bank of the Nith, believed to be artificial.^ We find Kirklandhill in the parishes of Maybole and Kirkmichael (Dumfriesshire). In the latter is also Kirkhill, corresponding in meaning to Kirklaw, a farm in Skirling parish. Kirknow — i.e., the Knoll of the Church — is a village in Cambusnethan parish, on the high ground close to the kirk, built about 1649, when the still older structure, whose ruins are yet visible near the Clyde two and a half miles to the west, was deserted.* Kirkhill is an estate in Mearns parish, Renfrewshire. The kirk of Mearns was granted during the second half of the twelfth century to Paisley Abbey, and continued to be its property till the Reformation. The parishes of Kilmadock and Strathaven have each a Kirkhill. The estate of Belmont, in Meigle parish, noted for its fine old trees, was known as Kirkhill till about 1770, and was anciently the occasional residence of the bishops of Dunkeld.^ There is a village of Kirkhill on the North Esk, ' Moore's Surnames and Place-Names of the Isle of Man, p. 280. '^ N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 429. * Ibid., Dumfries, p. 11. ■* Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 709. '' N. S. A., Perth, p. 233. KIRKS. 123 half a mile north-east of Penicuik, Mid-Lothian, recalling the ancient kirk of St Mungo. Kirkhill is the original village of Cambuslang parish, Lanarkshire, and points to the kirk of St Cadoc that stood on the bank of a rapid rivulet, called from it the Kirk Burn. In Uphall parish, Linlithgowshire, is Kirkhill mansion, half a mile from Brox- burn, and about 700 yards from the ancient kirk of St Nicholas, whose bell, bearing date 1441, was removed to the new church at Uphall.^ Kirkhill Castle is near Colmonell, Ayrshire ; and Kirkhill House is in Cockpen parish, on the South Esk, a mile and a half from Gorebridge. St Andrews has a Kirkhill, formerly called Kirkheugh, where, as Dr D. Hay Fleming tells us, " the Celtic Church had an early settlement : but little remains now except the foundations of the church and some portions of the walls." ^ In the north of Inverness-shire is Kirkhill parish, comprising the ancient parishes of Wardlaw and Farnua. There is a farm of Kirkhill near Ellon in Aberdeenshire. Kirkgill, in Crawford parish, is the Glen of the Church, from Scandinavian gil, a narrow valley. Kirk is further found in such names as Kirkside, an estate in St Cyrus parish, Kincardineshire ; Kirkfield, an estate in Lesmahagow parish ; and Kirkbank, an estate and a rail- way-station near the Teviot in Eckford parish, Roxburgh- shire. The kirk of Eckford is beautifully situated near the Teviot, not far from its junction with the Kale. From the ' N. S. A.' ^ we learn that the ancient church-bell of Eckford now hangs in the belfry of Carham in Northumberland, whither it is believed to have been taken in the sixteenth century. Kirkdale is an ancient parish of Kircudbright- shire, annexed in 1636 partly to Anwoth but chiefly to Kirkmabreck. Its church, dedicated to St Michael, stood half a mile below Kirkdale mansion. There is a Kirkidale in South Uist, on the south shore of Loch Eynort. Kirklane, in the Kirkcudbrightshire parish of Kelton, signifies the Stream of the Church, lane being, according to Jamieson's Scottish Dictionary, a brook of which the motion is so slow as to be scarcely perceptible. Another 1 Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 886, note. ^ Guide to St Andrews, p. 75. ^ Roxburgh, p. 223, note. 124 KIRKS. instance of the same word occurs in Kirkgunzeon Lane — i.e., the stream of Kirkgunzeon parish flowing into the Urr near Dalbeattie. In Peeblesshire is the ancient parish of Kailzie, now part of Traquair. Its church, dedicated to the Virgin, stood beside a stream called from it the Kirkburn, flowing into the Tweed. There is a Kirk rivulet in Mearns parish, Renfrewshire. Kirk -Loch, in Lochmaben parish, Dumfriesshire, is a sheet of water recalling the old church of the parish — a Gothic structure dedicated to St Mary Magdalene, but removed in 1818 prior to the building of the present church on another site. What is now called Glencairn, in Auchindoir and Kearn parish, Aberdeenshire, was at one time known as Kirkcairns. When the church of Auchindoir was to be built, a proposal was made to erect it at Kirkcairns ; but the virgin to whom the structure was to be dedicated expressed her preference for the site where it was actually reared. Such at least was the local belief, according to Jervise, who remarks : " But for the warning voice of the virgin, who appears to have been a good judge both of locality and soil, the kirk would have been placed in an obscure, sterile district."^ In Caithness are the village and parish of Halkirk, the latter comprising the ancient parishes of Halkirk, dedicated either to St Fergus or St Catherine, and Skinnet to St Thomas. In 1222 Halkirk was written " Hakirk," in 1274 " Haukyrc," and in 1504 " Haikrik." Mr Johnston inter- prets it as signifying High Church, and thinks that the I is probably due to association with Icelandic hall-r, a slope.* Pennant says : " As the Bishop of Caithness lived of old at Halkirk, his chapel was called St Kathrin, of which there is no vestige left but a heap of rubbish." ^ Holm means an island, or a meadow by a river. Kirkholm is in the parish of Sandsting and Aithsting, Shetland, where there is also Kirkness, the Church Headland. There is another Kirk- holm — a small estate in Kirkpatrick-Irongray parish, Kirk- cudbrightshire—not far from the glebe. Kirkcaldy in Fife is difficult to interpret. Kircaladinit and Kirkaldin are old forms. Mr Johnston thinks that the name is "prob- ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. viii. p. 329. " Scottish Place-Names, s.v. " Halkirk." s Tour, vol. i. p. 343- KIRKS. 125 ably from Gaelic cala dion or dion-ait, harbour of refuge, or with the refuge-place," the first syllable being probably Gaelic cathair, a fort, pronounced kar or kair.^ Mr Liddall makes it the fort of Calaten, whose sons were famous magicians, mentioned in the Book of Leinster.^ Kirkden parish, Forfarshire, was anciently called Idvies. Its church stands in a dell or den. From Jervise^ we learn that the kirk, consecrated ist September 1243, formerly stood upon the lands of Gask, in a field still called the Kirkshade, from which it was removed to Vinny Den towards the begin- ning of the eighteenth century. There is a Kirkdean in Kirkurd parish, Peeblesshire. The derivation of Kirkurd itself is uncertain. Mr Johnston thinks that it may be " possibly from a man, or from Gaelic ord, a steep rounded height." * In the second half of the twelfth century it was known as Ecclesia de Orda. In the neighbourhood are Ladyurd and Netherurd. Kirkstyle occurs as a place-name. Lands so called are mentioned in the year 1603 as situated in the parish of Oxnam, Roxburghshire.' The Kirkstyle of Ruthwell was a chapel belonging to the knights of St John, situated about a mile from the parish church.^ There are now no remains of the building. We find a Kirkstyle in Ewes parish, Dumfriesshire, and another in Carluke parish, Lanarkshire, which was created a burgh of barony by Charles II. in 1662. The ground west of the churchyard — the original market- place of Carluke — was known as Kirkstyle Muir.''' Sir WilHam Fraser tells us that "John Leslie feued in the year 1567 to his brother, Bughaine, certain lands near Avoch, including Kirkskeith."* Near Tain is Kirksheaf. Both these names indicate land given as tribute to the church, from Icelandic skati-r, Danish skat, Old Eng. sceat, a scat— i.e., a coin, hence a tax.« Wheelkirk stood near the source of the Liddel in Roxburghshire, close to an ancient road 1 Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kirkcaldy." 2 Place-Names of Fife and Kinross, s.v. "Kirkcaldy." 3 Memorials, vol. ii. p. 226. ■* Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kirkurd." 5 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 391. " N. S. A., Dumfries, p. 228. 7 Carluke, p. 230. * The_Earls of Cromartie, vol. ii. p. 499. « Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kirksheaf." 126 KIRKS. called the " Whele Causey," which gave name to the church. According to Chalmers, this causeway was the continuation into Teviotdale of the ancient road known as the " Maiden- way," leading from Maiden Castle on Stanmore in Westmor- land.i The lands of Liddesdale included Over and Nether Wheel-kirk and Wheel-land. In the same district are the lands of the Five Kirks of Eskdale, granted by James V. to Lord Maxwell to reward him for his services in bringing Mary of Guise from France as the king's bride.^ Westerkirk— one of these kirks— is thought to have been so called because it was the most westerly of the five, but with more probability the name may be traced to the Manor of Wester Caer, near the hamlet of Westerker on Megget Water, close to its junction with the Esk. Westerker would easily become Westerkirk.* On the farm of Elfgil'l is Eastercaer. There was an ancient parish of West Kirk in Westray island, Orkney, now in- cluded in the parish of Westray and Papa- Westray. In Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, is Kirkstead* — i.e., the Place of the Church ; and in Brechin parish, Forfarshire, is a large piece of land called Kirkshade, "shade" being a shed or division of land. Between the lands of Caldhame and Unthank, also in Brechin parish, is a piece of ground described in 1578 as that croft of outfield land called of old the " Kirk Dor Keyis " — i.e., Kirk Door Keys.^ In Mor- dington parish, Berwickshire, is a field known as Kirk- park where the parish church once stood. Glenholm parish, Peeblesshire, has a Kirkhall and a Glenkirk. Kirkwood, near Coatbridge, speaks to us of the church in relation to trees, and so do the lands of Kirkwodheid in Kirkton parish, Roxburghshire. The parish of Carluke, in Lanarkshire, was at one time known as Forest Kirk, its church having been built in the forest of Mauldslie. From the ash-tree comes the name of Ashkirk in Selkirkshire. The church of Thankerton in Lanarkshire was at one time known as ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 92. "^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 359. ' N. S. A., Dumfries, p. 429. '' In Lincolnshire is the parish of Kirkstead, where a Cistercian abbey was founded in 1139. " Reg. Brech., vol. ii. p. 321. KIRKS. 127 Woodkirk. In 1180 it was called " Ecclesia de uilla Than- cardi scilicet Wdekyrch."^ A valley is brought before us in the name of Hobkirk, anciently Hopekirk, a Teviotdale parish of Roxburghshire, and in Kirkhope a farm on the Ettrick in Selkirkshire, where, as we learn from the ' N. S. A.,' ^ " the place of an old kirk steading is still visited ; its site is so covered with grass and moss, however, that its dimensions are barely discernible." The one means the valley church, and the other the church vcdley. Hope, aptly described by Professor Veitch as " one of the com- monest and sweetest of our names," ^ signifies primarily a harbour or haven, and secondarily, a valley, particularly a sheltered one. Two of the church-lands in Hownam parish were respectively Kirkhope and Kirkrow.^ Kirk-Yetholm in Roxburghshire — the headquarters of the Scottish gipsies — means the Gate Hamlet of the Church, as it ^vas the gate between Scotland and England." The village consists of two parts — Town-Yetholm on the left bank of Bowmont Water, and Kirk-Yetholm on its right bank. Edward I. spent two da3"s at Yetholm in 1304, on his way back to England ; and Douglas is said to have made the kirk his trj-sting-place before the battle of Otter- bum in 1388. After Flodden many Scottish nobles are believed to have been brought to Yetholm for interment, as being the nearest consecrated ground in Scotland. Kirkliston near Edinburgh, and Kirkborthwick in Rober- ton parish, Selkirkshire, are less easilj- interpreted. Mr Johnston thinks that liston is probably from GaeHc lios, a garden, and Old Eng. tun, a dwelling or village; and that Borthwick is probably firom hirh or borh, a castle, and wic, a village.* Liston is found in England, where it is the name of a parish in Essex. In connection with Roberton parish, Cosmo Innes sajs : "The district contained at an early period a church, from which in the time of King Robert Bruce the surrounding territorj' had the name of 1 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 142. - Selkirk, p. 68. ' History and Poetry of the Scottish Border, p. 27. * O. P. S., vol. i. p. 393. ' Gatton, in Surrey, is the Town at the Gate or Passage. • Scottish Place-Xames, s.v. " Kirkliston and Borthwick." 128 KIRKS. Kirkborthewyc. Its burial-ground is still the chief place of sepulture of Roberton parish. Kirkborthwick stood on the left bank of Borthwick Water. In the last [i.e., the eighteenth] century the remnants of a church at Borthwick- brae were visible." ^ Kirkforthar is in Markinch parish, Fife, and gives name to the hamlet of Kirkforthar Feus. The writer in the ' O. S. A.' ^ remarks : " In the beginning of the seventeenth century, the small parsonage of Kirkforthar, belonging to Lindsay of Kirkforthar, a cadet of the family of Crawford, was suppressed and annexed to Markinch. The ruins of the church of Kirkforthar are still to be seen ; they stand in the middle of the old churchyard, which is enclosed by a wall." Forthar, noted for its lime-works, is in the neighbouring parish of Kettle ; and there is another Forthar in Glen- isla in Perthshire. The name is probably the old Gaelic /other or farther, signifying a fortified place. Muirkirk parish formed part of the parish of Mauchline till 1631. From its moorland situation its church was called Kirk of the Muir, then Muirkirk, as well as Muirkirk of Kyle. The village rose into importance through the discovery of iron ore in 1787. There is a Kirk-o'-Muir in St Ninian's parish, Stirlingshire ; and Kirkmuirhill is a village near the Nethan in Lesmahagow parish, Lanarkshire. Prestonkirk parish, Haddingtonshire, was anciently called Linton, or Hauch, and later Prestonhaugh. The name signifies the Church of the Priest's Town or Dwelling. The parish church, a short way from East Linton, is believed to occupy the site of a place of worship built by St Baldred. The present structure dates from 1770. Till then a figure, believed to represent the saint, lay in the churchyard, but was broken in pieces by a mason. Near the church on the bank of the Tyne is St Baldred's Well, a spring of delightfully cool water. '^ Who that knows Orkney is not interested in Kirkwall, with its ancient cathedral dedicated to St Magnus ? The name of the town, however, is believed to be connected with another kirk — viz., St Olaf's, a humbler structure long since passed away. Dr ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 326. 2 Vqi xii. p. 535, note. ' p. S. A. Scot., vol. xxviii, p. 8i. KIRKS. 129 Joseph Anderson remarks : " It seems probable that it is to the church of St Olaf that Kirkwall owes its name of Kirkiuvagr, the Creek of the Kirk. This name does not occur in the ' Orkneyinga Saga ' before the time of Earl Rognvald Brusison, who is said to have resided there ; and it is most likely that the church of St Olaf was built by him in memory of his foster-father, King Olaf the Holy. Earl Rognvald was in the battle of Stiklestad (1030), in which the warrior saint of Norway fell ; and, being his foster-son, he was more likely than any of the subsequent earls to dedicate a church to his memory."^ Between Kirkiuvag(r) and Kirkwall occur as intermediate forms of the name Kirkvaw, Kirkwaw, and Kirkwallia. We find colour entering into the names of certain kirks. Thus there was Redkirk, otherwise Redpatrick, in Dumfries- shire, once a separate parish but now included in Gretna. In the 'N. S. A.'^ we read: "At Redkirk Point, near the farm of that name, once stood the church of Redpatrick or Redkirk, which, like most others in this vicinity, anciently belonged to the See of Glasgow. Of that church or church- yard not a vestige now remains — the tide and river whirl- ing violently round that headland have swept them entirely away; but some old people yet remember the unwelcome sight of bones and coffins protruding from the banks or collected from the beach." In Haddingtonshire is Whitekirk, forming a parish with Tyninghame. The pre-Reformation church, with its stone porch, is still used as the parish church. It was under the invocation of the Virgin, and at one time attracted many a pilgrim. One of these was ^neas Sylvius (afterwards Pope Pius II.), who, in 1435, to fulfil a vow made during a storm at sea between the Low Countries and Scotland, went to Whitekirk, walking barefoot over ten miles of frozen ground, with the result that he suffered from rheum- atism all the rest of his life. The Whitekirk of Buchan, dedicated to St Andrew, stood in Tyrie parish. In the porch of the present church is, or was, the Ravenstone, believed to have been the foundation-stone of the ancient 1 Orkneyinga Saga, Intro., p. Ixxxix. ^ Dumfries, p. 266. I I30 KIRKS. church, said to have been founded about 1004, when the Maormaer of Buchan routed a Danish host in the vicinity.^ Falkirk, in StirHngshire, also contains a reference to colour in its name, as it means the speckled church. In 1382 it was written " Fawkirc." Faw in Scotch represents the A.S. fag or fah, and, like it, means "variegated." It is significant that in a Latin charter of 1257 the place is called "Varia Capella." Anciently it was known as Egglesbrec, and is so styled in our own time by the Highland drovers frequenting the Falkirk trysts. These three names throw light on one another, as they all refer to the speckled ap- pearance of the ancient church.^ In 1594 the parish of Greenock was carved out of that of Inverkip, where the church stood. A new place of worship having been then built at Greenock, the church at Inverkip came to be known as the " Auld Kirk " ; and this name was afterwards popularly applied to the village of Inverkip itself. It is curious that, in two cases at least, the name of Auld Kirk has been given to groups of prehistoric standing-stones — viz., at Alford and at Tough, both in Aberdeenshire.* Miinch tells us that at Quoyloo, in Sandwich parish, Shet- land, are certain standing-stones popularly known as the Holy Kirk.* On a crag overhanging Loch Roan, in Cross- michael parish, is an ancient hill-fort "yet called by the country people the Auld Kirk of Loch Roan." ^ At Cromarty the church stood originally on ground now covered by the sea. A sand-bank, probably the site of the building, still retains the name of Old Kirk.^ There is a New Kirk in New Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire ; and in Unst parish, Shetland, are the ruins of an ecclesiastical structure known as New Kirk. The story ran that it had never been finished, for whatever the builders built by day the Picts came and destroyed by night.' In Mid- Lothian is the parish of Kirk- newton, comprising the ancient parishes of Kirknewton and 1 Vide Gaz., s.v. "Tyrie." '^ Scottish Place-Names, s.v. " Falkirk.' '■^ N. S. A., Aberdeen, pp. 499, 613. '' M^moires de la Soci Reg. Episc. Aberd., vol. i. p. 29. KIRKS AND SAINTS. 153 have made it almost circular. The kirk itself has vanished ; some slight elevations here and there, hardly distinguishable from the graves around, alone show where it stood. The stone font, however, is still to be seen.^ The churchyard of Walla Kirk is described by Principal Sir W. D. Geddes as "one of the most pleasing spots in respect of situation and surroundings and old associations that northern Scotland can show. Above, we discern the frowning crags of the Succoch, and over both kirkyard and glen there seems to brood a spirit of pastoral or rather Ossianic melancholy, for the spot lies secluded among the alders and hazels fringing a fine reach of the Deveron, which murmurs or gurgles sweetly along as if joyous at having escaped from the dark gorge beneath the Castle of Beldorney. The place is one of quiet peace in a lonely glen, with memories stretch- ing back into the early Celtic times." ' Collections (Aberdeen and Banff), pp. 128 (note), 129 ; Antiquities of Aberdeen and Banff, vol. ii. p. iSi. CHAPTER XII. CHAPELS. Chapel and Kirk — Praying-stations — Hallow Chapel — Barthol Chapel — Dyce — Chapel- Dockie — Chapel of Garioch — Polnar Chapel, i^c. — Chipper — Chapel Donan — Chapel — Chapelton, ksfe. — Chapelhill — Chapel Knowe — Barcaple — Iniscapel — Kirkhobble — Chapel Rossan —Chapel Park, ^c— Chapel Couch— Chapel Yard-Chapel Rone — Chapel Burn — Chapel Gill — Chapel Hope. Though in legal standing a chapel was inferior to a kirk, it is important enough in relation to topography to claim separate treatment. The term is derived from Low Latin capella. Its history is thus sketched in Dr Murray's ' New English Dictionary ' : ^ " From the capella or cloak of St Martin, preserved by the Prankish kings as a sacred relic, which was borne before them in battle and used to give sanctity to oaths, the name was applied to the sanctuary in which this was preserved under the care of its capellani, or chaplains, and thence generally to a sanctuary containing holy relics attached to a palace, &c., and so to any private sanctuary or holy place, and finally to any apartment or building for orisons or worship not being a church." The mediaeval reverence for chapels was transmitted far into post-Reformation days. The older indeed the building, the greater was the sanctity believed to cling to its ruins. These latter became praying-stations, often resorted to at any particular crisis of life. " On the top of the Mull of Deerness," according to the ' O. S. A.,' - " there is a small chapel to which superstition has made even old age scramble ' S.v. "Chapel." = Vol. xx. p. 261. CHAPELS. ISS through a path in many places scarce six inches broad, and where a single false step led to certain death." Martin thus describes the ritual practised at St Flannan's ruined chapel by fowlers from the Lewis after landing on Island More : "When they are come within about twenty Paces of the Altar, they all strip themselves of their upper Garments at once; and their upper Clothes being laid upon a stone, which stands there on purpose for that use, all the Crew pray three times before they begin Fowling : the first day they say the first Prayer, advancing towards the Chappel upon their Knees; the second Prayer is said as they go round the Chappel ; the third is said hard by or at the Chappel : and this is their Morning-Service. Their Vespers are perform'd with the like number of Prayers." ^ A favourite pilgrim resort in post- Reformation times was the Chapel of Grace near the Spey, a few miles from Foch- abers, in Elginshire. Close to it was a spring known as the Well of Grace. The chapel, as Chambers indicates, though a mere ruin, was " held in great veneration, and was resorted to by devout people from all parts of the north of Scotland." Chambers adds : " We hear of Lady Aboyne going to the Chapel of Grace every year, being a journey of thirty Scotch miles, the two last of which she always performed on her bare feet. About the time of the National Covenant (1638) what remained of the Chapel of Grace was thrown down, with a view to putting a stop to the practice ; but this seems to have been far from an effectual measure. In a work written in 1775 the author says : ' In the north end of the parish [of Dundurcus] stood the Chapel of Grace, and near to it the well of that name, to which multitudes from the Western Isles do still resort, and nothing short of violence can restrain their super- stition.' " 2 As the reverence for chapels came down the centuries so did their names. Accordingly we find the latter retained by places in the neighbourhood of the building or of its site. Beside the Stinchar, in Colmonell parish, Ayrshire, is a place called Hallow Chapel, where once stood a chapel ' Western Isles, p. 17. 2 Domestic Annals of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 325, 326. IS6 CHAPELS. dedicated to All-Saints.^ In Tarves parish, Aberdeenshire, is the quoad sacra parish of Barthol Chapel, so called prob- ably from a chapel to St Bartholomew, though Jervise prefers to regard Barthol as a corruption of Futhcul, "a district whose chapel is mentioned with the parish church in charters of 1200-29."^ Dyce, in the same county, was formerly known as Chapel of St Fergus, near Moss Feetach, — St Fergus having been the patron of the parish.* Chapel- Dockie — an ancient site at Ethie-Beaton, in Monifieth parish, Forfarshire— is thought by Jervise to recall St Murdoch.* Chapel of Garioch is an Aberdeenshire parish situated in the Garioch district. It once had a chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, where the parish church now stands. Polnar Chapel, otherwise Polander Chapel, a farm near the Don in Inverurie parish, recalls St Apollinaris of Ravenna. On the northern slope of the Hill of Keillor, in the parish of Newtyle, Forfarshire, is the hamlet of Chapel of Keillor. Near it sepulchral remains were found, probably in the burying-ground of the now vanished chapel that gave name to the hamlet.^ The farm of Chapel of Barras, in Kinneff parish, Kincardineshire, derived its name from a chapel dedicated to St John at the foot of St John's Hill.^ Sir Herbert Maxwell mentions Chipperfinian, in Mochrum parish, Wigtownshire, called by Pont Chappelfinian, — so named from St Finnan, who became Bishop of Lindisfarne in 652 ; and Chipperheron or Chapelheron, in Whithorn parish, suggesting St Kieran of Clonmacnoise, who died in 548. In both cases Chipper is Gaelic tohar or tobair,' a spring. Chipperfinian has still the remains of a chapel, throwing light on its alternative name. Chapel Donan, dedicated to St Donan of Eigg, stood on the Carrick coast about two miles north-east of Girvan, on the lands of Craigoch. The "twenty-shilling lands of the chapel of St Donnan of Cragach " are mentioned in a charter of 1404.® Chapel wells are to be found in various parts of the 1 Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 542. '•' Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 355. ' O. S. A., vol. xiii. p. 81. ■■ Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 319. " Marshall's Historic Scenes of Forfarshire, p. 132. " N. S. A., Kincardine, p. 319. ' Gall. Top. * Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 539. CHAPELS. 157 country, telling of the existence of some neighbouring chapel even when the building itself has passed away.^ Some places bear the name of Chapel simply. There is a village of this name in Abbotshall parish, Fife ; and there is another near Gateside in Neilston parish, Renfrewshire. In Tynron parish, Dumfriesshire, are the lands of Chapel, now forming part of the farm of Craigturrah ; ^ and we find other examples in the parishes of Bothwell, Dirleton, Lilliesleaf, and Lauder. Chapel, to the east of Springwood House in Kelso parish, is believed to have derived its name from an oratory to St Thomas, burned by the Earl of Hertford in 1545. In the seventeenth century, Stranraer, or at least part of it, had the alternative name of "The Chapel." Symson says : " On the east end of the town there is a good house pertaining to Sir John Dalrymple, younger of Stair, call'd the Castle of the Chapel, where also there is a chapel, now ruinous, from whence all on the east side of the bourn is called 'The Chapel.'"^ Chapel is a farm about two miles from Cumnock, named after a chapel dedicated to All-Saints. Near Moffat is the farm of Chapel, with the remains of the building that supplied its name. Chapel, on the lands of Lainshaw, in Stewarton parish, Ayrshire, takes us back to the pre- Reformation chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, that once stood there. Chapelton was the former name of the place, indicating the iou7t — i.e., the house or cluster of buildings in the vicinity of the chapel. A dedication to the Virgin at Orton, in Rothes parish, Elginshire, originated the name of the neighbouring farm of Chapel. When alluding to Chapelton, in Leshe parish, Aberdeenshire, Jervise remarks : " Nothing now remains of the old place of worship which is said to have stood at Chapelton, and whose old font is built into the farmhouse. According to tradition the church was de- mohshed long ago by the tenant of the farm, who is said to have paid dearly for his sacrilegious act, which was punished by the loss of 'four pair of horse.'"* Regarding Chapelton near Dumbarton, Cosmo Innes ' For list of chapel wells see ' P. S. A. Scot.,' vol. xvii. p. 203. '' N. S. A., Dumfries, p. 474. 3 Description of Galloway, pp. 60, 61. * Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 335. IS8 CHAPELS. says: "A chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, stood near the burgh, the chaplain of which received twenty shillings out of the king's ferms of the burgh. It may perhaps have been at Chapelton, a place marked on Blaeu's map a little to the eastward of the town." ^ Chapelton, on the lands of Dillavaird in Glenbervie parish, Kincardineshire, keeps alive the memory of an ancient dedication to the Virgin, not far from whose site is St Mary's Well. The parishes of Killearnan, Methlick, Marnoch, Glassford, Cumber- nauld, and Borgue have each a Chapelton or Chapeltown. Inveravon parish, Banffshire, has two Chapeltons — one in the Braes of Glenlivet, and the other at Kilmaichlie, where traces of a chapel and cemetery were visible sixty or seventy years ago.^ Reference is made in a fifteenth-century charter to the hermit of the chapel of St Mary of the forest of Kilgary, in Menmuir barony, Forfarshire. This chapel no longer exists, but its stones were used in building the steadings of the present farmhouse of Chapelton, in the neighbour- hood of its site. The lands of Chapelton, forming part of those of Arrat and Caldhame, near Brechin in the same county, derived their name from an ancient chapel to St Mary Magdalene locally known as Maidlin Chapel. The chapel was ruinous about the middle of the fifteenth century, and was then rebuilt by John de Carnoth, Bishop of Brechin ; but now hardly any traces of the building are visible. The burying-ground, however, is still surrounded by a stone wall bordered by a few trees.* Chapelton in Drumblade parish, Aberdeenshire, recalls a chapel to the Nine Maidens removed some fifty years ago. Near its site is a spring known as the Chapel Well. Jervise thinks that a chapel dedicated to St Menimis probably stood at Chapelton, about two miles below the bridge of Marnoch, in Aberchirder parish in the same shire.* A chapel to the Virgin, surrounded by venerable trees, gave name to the hamlet of Chapelton of Boysack in Inverkeillor parish, Forfarshire.** At Chapel House, in Dunlop parish, were ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 24. 2 N_ s. A., Banff, p. 133. 3 Warden's Angus, vol. iii. pp. 34, 35. * Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 234. " Ibid., p. 325. CHAPELS. 159 to be seen till about 1830 the ruins of a pre-Reformation place of worship dedicated to the Virgin.^ She had also a chapel in Old Meldrum parish, Aberdeenshire, on a farm still called from it Chapelhouse. When the parish article in the ' N. S. A.'^ was written, the foundations of the build- ing were to be seen surrounded by a graveyard. A stone, believed to be the font, was also visible. Near the site is a spring appropriately named the Lady Well. Chapelerne, in Crossmichael parish, probably means the Chapelhouse, from A.S. aern, a place or dwelling. In the Cromar district of Aberdeenshire is the Ernan, a tributary of the Don, giving name to Chapel-Ernan in its neighbourhood. It is probable that the stream is called after the saint of the same name. We find Chapel-Hill occurring repeatedly, but one or two examples must suffice. On the farm of Coul-Gask, in Trinity-Gask parish, is Chapel-Hill, named after a building that disappeared long ago ; and there is another Chapel- Hill near the Lyne, in West Linton parish. On the farm of Chapel Hill, a little to the south of the Castle of Rothes in Elginshire, once stood the chapel of the castle. The burying-ground survived the structure.^ There was a chapel at Chapel-Hill, close to the mansion-house of Hillhouse, in Dundonald parish. Some traces of the building were visible in 1841 ; * and a stone, believed to have been the font, was pointed out, built into the garden wall. On the west side of Culter Water in Lanarkshire, a little below Culter village, once stood a religious house founded by Walter Bysset in the reign of David II. Its site is still known as Chapel- Hill.* Chapel-hill at Rothesay in Bute was formerly known as St Bride's Hill, from a chapel on it dedicated to that saint. There was a cemetery round the building. The hill was bought in i860 by the Town Council of Rothesay, when chapel and cemetery were both removed.^ The lands of Capelhills in Aberdeenshire became Newhills in the seventeenth century, giving name to the present parish of Newhills. The site of St Cuthbert's chapel, connected with the • N. S. A., Ayr, p. 294. ^ Aberdeen, p. 477. » N. S. A., Elgin, p. 233. ■* Ibid., Ayr, p. 677. = Ibid., Lanark, p. 345. « Hewison's Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. pp. 232, 233. l6o CHAPELS. monastery of Old Melrose, continues to be called Chapel- Knowe or Chapel-Knoll. There is a Chapel-Knowe in Half- Morton parish, and there is another in Dalserf parish. There was once a chapel to the west of Leitholm village in Eccles parish. Its site is marked by an old ash-tree called the "chapel -tree," growing on the summit of the Chapel Knowe. The adjoining ground was used for in- terments, but long ago passed into cultivation.^ About half a mile from the Mill of Conveth in Laurencekirk parish, Kincardineshire, the foundations of a building, evidently a chapel, were dug up about 1830. The writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.'^ remarks: "A circular tumulus of rock, immediately adjoining, is to this day called the Chapel- Knap." Chapel-brae is the name given to the hill-road at the foot of Morrone as one ascends from the west end of Castleton of Braemar, but no remains of a building are now visible. Barcaple, in Tongland parish, is the Hill -top of the Chapel — from Gaelic barr, a top, and caipeail, a chapel; while Drumchapel, in New Kilpatrick parish, has for prefix the Gaelic druim, the back, hence a ridge. The chapel in this case was dedicated to the Virgin. Iniscapel, in Kil- brandon and Kilchattan parish, is the Island of the Chapel, from Gaelic innis, an island. Kirkhobble, in Penningham parish, according to Sir Herbert Maxwell, is the Quarter- land of the Chapel, from Gaelic ceathramhaidh chaipeail (pro- nounced "carrou happle"). On Blaeu's map the place is marked " Kerychapell." From the ' N. S. A.' ^ we learn that Kirkhobble is pronounced Kirkhapel or Kirkhapple, and that in its neighbourhood is Glenhapple, otherwise Glenhapples. Chapel-Rossan, in Kirkmaiden parish, tells us of a headland where a chapel once stood, rossan being a diminutive of Gaelic ros, a promontory. We find Chapel Park indicating a piece of land where a chapel was erected ; but the name is now in most cases the only memorial of the building. This is true of Chapel Park in the Aberdeenshire parishes of Forgue and Belhelvie. The latter has two Chapel Parks, one at Milden, the other ' N. S. A., Berwick, p. 50. - Kincardine, p. 129. ^ Wigtown, p. 176. CHAPELS. l6l at Ardo. Beside the hamlet of Lynchat in Alvie parish, Inverness-shire, is Chapelpark, recalling a chapel dedicated to St Moluag of Lismore. There are faint traces of a build- ing at Chapel-park in Ladykirk parish, Berwickshire. Re- garding the site, the writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.' says: "In what is called the Chapel Park, a little lower down the river than Upsetlington, a few large stones, and the superior richness of the soil, mark where the ancient monastery stood." ^ What is here called the monastery was evidently St Leonard's Hospital, founded by Robert Byset, who received a grant of the manor of Upsetlington in the twelfth century. Chalmers says : " Robert Byset granted this hospital, with its pertinents, to the monks of Kelso, on condition that their abbot should keep a chaplain there ; and should maintain in it two poor persons, whom the donor and his heirs should have the right of placing therein."^ In his charter Robert Byset refers to the establishment as " Hospitale Sancti Leonardi in territorio meo de Upsedilingtone juxta Twede ex opposite de Horwerdene fundatum."^ Chapel Haugh, in Whittinghame parish. East Lothian, is a glen where stood the chapel belonging to the now ruined baronial residence of Penshiel.* In East Kilbride parish, Lanarkshire, are Chapelside and Kapelrig ; and there is a Capelrig in Mearns parish, Renfrewshire, where there was a chapel believed to have belonged to the Knights-Templars.^ In Aberdour parish, Aberdeenshire, on the lands of Auch- medden, is Chapelden, still marked in 1840 by a ruined building whence was brought the hexagonal stone font now at the Old Kirk of Aberdour.* Chapel-Shade at Backboath, in Carmyllie parish, Forfarshire, has for suffix shed, a portion of land. Chapel-green, in Kilsyth parish, explains itself as far as the green is concerned ; but nothing definite is known of its chapel. There is reason to believe that Chapel-field, in St Cyrus parish, Kincardineshire, was so named from a dedication to St Laurence.^ ^ Berwick, p. 182. ^ Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 349. ' Liber de Calchou, p. 195. ' N. S. A., Haddington, p. 66. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. pp. 98, 100. ^ Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 55. ' Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. p. 162. L l62 CHAPELS. At Lurg, in New Kilpatrick parish, is a place known as Chapel-Couch, but the meaning of the word is uncertain. According to the ' N. S. A.'^ it was the site of a small chapel, "of which few memorials now remain. The place where it stood is pointed out by the name Chapel Couch; and in the tradition of the neighbourhood the auld kirk is still spoken of. There was a cemetery attached to it, and till within these thirty years several tombstones remained." Chapel Croft and Chapel Yard occur in Leochel-Cushnie parish, Aberdeenshire, and indicate a connection with now vanished buildings. On a knoll to the south-east of Aldbar railway station, in Forfarshire, is the burying-ground of Chapel-Yard. Regarding the spot Jervise says : " This was possibly the site of the chapel which was dependent upon the kirk of Rescobie in the thirteenth century. From a well near the burial - place being called S. Madoc, it is probable that the old church or chapel had been dedicated to that saint." ^ A piece of land with adjacent garden, at Dirleton in East Lothian, was formerly known as Capell- Yaird, and is believed to have been so called from All-Saints' Chapel, founded by Alexander de Vallibus during the reign of Alexander III.^ Chapel-Yard was the name given in 1605 to the garden of St Saviour's chapel in Tongland parish, Kirkcudbrightshire.* We also find Chapel Walls occurring in topography. The writer of the article on Dalserf parish in the ' N. S. A.' remarks: "In 1563 a mob came to pull down the old Romish chapel at Broomhill ; but the lady of Sir John Hamilton, meeting them on the way, assured them that they might save themselves the trouble, as she meant to make a good barn of it. With this statement they were satisfied, and the chapel was permitted to remain till 1724, when it fell down of its own accord. The field where it stood is still called Chapel Rone." ■' Roue is probably the word given in Jamieson's ' Scottish Dictionary- ' as signify- ing shrub or bush, and seems to occur in Rhone Hill and Rhone Park in Crossmichael parish, Kirkcudbrightshire. 1 Dumbai-lon, p. 49. -' Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 159. ' N. S. A., Hadding-ton, p. 211. ■■ R. M. s. " Lanark, p. 733. CHAPELS. 163 The parishes of Dalserf and Larbert have a Chapel-Burn, and there is a stream of the same in Crawford parish, with an ancient burying-ground on its bank. About three miles from Inverurie is the Chapel Pool in the Don, so called from an ancient dedication to St Apollinaris in its im- mediate neighbourhood.^ Chapel - ford is a farm in the Enzie district of Banffshire, near a chapel dedicated to St Ninian. In the ancient Peeblesshire parish of Glenholm is Chapel-Gill, the suffix being Scandinavian gil, a narrow glen. Hope occurs frequently in the Border district to indicate a sheltered valley, and we find it in Chapel-hope at the head of St Mary's Loch, where the foundations of a chapel were for long traceable under their covering of moss. In the immediate neighbourhood are the Braes of Chapel-hope, among the outskirts of which many persecuted Covenanters sought refuge. Of their experiences in these upland retreats no one who has read " The Brownie of Bodsbeck " can be ignorant. ' Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 360. CHAPTER XIII. CROSSES. Wayside crosses — Palmer s Cross — Stonecrosshill — Crossbeg and Crossmore — Ardnacross — Pilgrim crosses — Goodlieburn — Crossrig — Stobcross — Examples of Crossbill — Corsheuch — Penny cross — Croscrag, isfc. — Corstorphine — Corscleuch — Cor shape — Croceden — Crossgills — Glencross — Corsdaill — Crossacre, tsfc. — Crossjlat — Corslie — Crosswood — Crosstuaters — Corsewall — Crueshill — Ruthnvell : its cross — Portin- cross — Crossford — Roodyard — Spots associated luith early saints — Cross as place-name — Crosschapel — Crossiirk — Holyrood Abbey — Black Rood of Scotland. Realism was strong in Scotland in mediaeval times, as it is in Roman Catholic countries to-day, and many a cross was to be seen throughout our land appealing to the religious sentiments of the period. Certain shrines were held in special honour, and on the roads leading to them it was customary to place a cross where the eye of the pilgrim first caught a glimpse of the venerated building.^ Palmer's Cross, according to Bishop Forbes, is the name of a district in Arbroath, and of a spot near Elgin, so called from the palmers who went on pilgrimage to the abbey of the former and the cathedral at the latter.^ In the parish of St Andrews- Lhanbryd is a rising ground on the road between Inver- ness and Aberdeen. At that point Elgin cathedral comes into sight, and there a cross once stood, giving the name of Stonecrosshill to the adjoining farm.* ^ Martin, in his 'Western Isles,' p. 28, says : "They [the churches and chapels of Lewis] were in greater veneration in those days than now. It was the constant practice of the natives to kneel at first sight of the church, though at a great distance from them, and then they said their Pater- noster." '^ Kal., s.v. " Palmer." s Caz., s.v. "St Andrews." CROSSES, 165 Blain, in his ' History of Bute,' ^ remarks : " After passing the quarry (south of Rothesay) we fall in with a small farm- stead called Crossbeg ; and farther forward, on the summit of a rising ground in Lochly, over which the road formerly lay, was another station called Crossmore. . . . The spot where stood the Crossbeg, or little cross, is not now particu- larly known ; but that of Crossmore, or the greater cross, is still distinguishable by the remains of a small mound whereon it had been erected." Beside the ruined church of Kilchousland, in Campbeltown parish, is to be seen a frag- ment of a sculptured cross, having on one side a two-handed sword, a man on horseback with a spear in his hand, and a dog pursuing a deer ; and on the other a galley with furled sail, animals, and knotwork.^ In the neighbourhood of the church are two farms named respectively Crossibeg and Ardnacross. Near the farm buildings of the latter a cross once stood. ^ Ardnacross means the Height of the Cross, and corresponds to Aird-na-Croise in Mull. Wayfarers coming from the west to the church of Strath- blane, in Stirlingshire, anciently found a cross standing on the top of the hill marking the spot where the church came into view, and "where the pilgrim said his first prayer when approaching the sacred edifice." * The place still bears the name of "The Crossbill." St Margaret's shrine at Dunferm- line attracted many a pilgrim over the Firth by way of Queensferry. There is a rocky eminence in Dalmeny parish, on the south side of the road from Edinburgh, called Crossall (otherwise Crossbill), where are still to be seen the remains of a mediaeval cross, marking the spot that afforded the first glimpse of the abbey. On the summit of the pass from Penicuik over the Pentlands, at the height of 1500 feet, once stood a cross. "The stone which formed its pedestal still remains, with two deep indentations which have evidently been worn by the knees of the many pass- ing worshippers." ^ A wayside cross once stood on the south side of the old I p. 28. ^ Stuart's Sculptured Stones, vol. ii. p. 30. ' White's Archaeol. Sketches, Kintyre, p. 112, note. * Guthrie-Smith's Strathblane, p. 168. = N. S. A., Mid-Lothian, p. 36; P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxxiii. p. 334. l66 CROSSES. road between Perth and Methven ; but when the road was altered and ploughed up, the monument was removed to a field on Goodlieburn farm. It had a representation of the Crucifixion sculptured on one side, and of a lion on the other. In 1798 the figure of our Lord was fairly complete, the head being surrounded by a "glory," but by i860 the upper part of the figure had disappeared. The monument was originally cruciform, but even at the former date the arms were wanting.^ There are, or were till recent years, the remains of a wayside cross at Preston, near Duns, and at Crossrig, a few miles from Biggar.'^ The lands of Stobcross at Glasgow derived their name in all probability from a wooden wayside cross set up at the meeting of two roads — one leading to the Clyde, the other to Partick.^ A conveyance of date nth May 1751 mentions the " Manor Place of Stobcross," with dovecot, gardens, and orchards.* On a rising ground opposite Markinch Hill in Fife, on the side of the highway passing to the north, is, or was till lately, a broad stone about seven feet high, called the Stobb Cross. It is described in the ' O. S. A.'^ as a very coarse piece of work, without any sculpture or characters on it that can lead to the knowledge of the design of its erection. Unless a wooden cross once stood beside the stone, and transferred its own name to it, one is at a loss as to the interpretation of the word. Crossbill has just been referred to. Other examples are to be found in the parishes of Slains, Ellon, and Dyce in Aberdeenshire; in the barony of Innes and Garmoch, Elgin- shire ; and farther south in the parishes of Auchtermuchty and Tulliallan ; and on the lands of Inchegall, in the barony of Lochquhoreschire, referred to in a charter of 1546."^ In 1614 some Templar-land in Haddingtonshire is mentioned as situated in Corshill.'' Ayrshire has Crossbill, a quoad sacra parish in Kirkmichael parish, with a village of the same name three miles south-east of Maybole; and Crossbill, ^ Stuart's Sculptured Stones, vol. ii. p. 48. ^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. iv. p. 88. Cors, Croce, and Cross are used inter- changeably. •'' Bygone Glasgow. •■ Rev. Dr Gordon's Glasghu Facies, p. 1126. » Vol. xii. p. 552. » R. M. S. ' Ibid. CROSSES. 167 Easter and Wester, in Kilwinning parish, where we find also Crossholm and Corsehill Muir, a rising ground on which witches used to be burned.^ Crossbill is one of the southern suburbs of Glasgow. We find Crossbill in the parishes of Strathaven, Old Monkland, and Rutherglen, with Crossflat and Temple-Cross in the last of these. When writing of the Crossbill of Rutherglen in 1793, Ure says : " Near the cross was a stone about ten feet high by three and a half broad. It was ornamented with various figures. The most remarkable was that of our Saviour riding upon an ass. There were several ornaments and inscriptions round the figures. This religious monument during the last perse- cution in Scotland fell a sacrifice to the fury of a mob ex- asperated at the violent methods that were then used to enforce a mode of religion contrary to the consciences of the people. In one night the whole was broken in pieces, and not a fragment preserved." ^ In East Kilbride parish are " Corse, Corseland, and Crossbill, near the foot of which is St Mungo's Well, a copious spring." Regarding East Kilbride, Ure remarks : " Several proper names have originated from crosses that were anciently erected in the parish, — as Crossbill, White- cross, Wardlawcross, &c. Near the cross was commonly a heap of stones which was used as a resting-place for funerals occasionally passing that way. One of these ominous resting-places still remains on the top of Wardlaw- cross." In Erskine parish, Renfrewshire, is Crossbill, commanding a fine view of the Firth of Clyde. We find Corsehill in Galloway — viz., in Kirkpatrick-Durbam parish, and on Kirkland in Dairy parish.^ Crosslaw has the same meaning as Crossbill, from A.S. law, a hill. Close to Lanark are the lands of Crosslaw, bought by the burgh in 1675.* Corsbak, otherwise Corsbalk, in Caithness, is probably connected with the Norse hakke, a hill. If so, it is synonymous with Crossbill and Crosslaw. We have a height suggested by the name of Corsheuch, near the monastery of Pittenweem, in Fife. There is a Corsebrae ' Smith's Prehistoric Man in Ayrshire, p. 6i. ^ Rutherglen and East Kilbride, p. 132. 3 Gall. Top. ' Lanark Burg-h Records, p. 199. I68 CROSSES. (Crossbrae) in Balmerino parish, in the same shire. Pennycross, a district in Mull, means, according to Professor Mackinnon, the Penny — i.e., the Penny land— of the Cross.^ The cross in this instance stands on a rising ground eight miles from Bunessan, near the south shore of Loch Scriden. It is four feet six inches in height. The shaft is of slate and the pedestal of sandstone, the whole being supported on blocks of basalt forming a heap some five feet high.^ We find Croscrag, on the lands of Berntoun (Barntoun), Mid- Lothian, mentioned in the year 1477; Corscrag, at Stevinstoun in Cunningham, in 1528 ; and Corscraig, in Kirkcudbrightshire, in 1587-88, — all signifying "the Crag or Rock of the Cross." ^ Stoneykirk and New Luce have each a Craigencrosh, and there is a Craigencross in Portpatrick parish.* In Erskine parish, Renfrewshire, is the farm of Drumcross — i.e., "the Ridge of the Cross." Knockcrosh, in Balmaclellan parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, is the " Hill of the Cross or Gallows." In Highland districts, Tom-na-crosh — i.e., the Knoll of the Cross or Gallows — recalls the days when the laird exercised " the right of pit and gallows," — a right that ceased in 1748, when heritable jurisdictions were abolished by Act of Parliament. Corstorphine, near Edinburgh, appears in the twelfth century as Crostorfine. Its chapel was then dependent on the church of St Cuthbert's, and both were granted by David I. to the canons of Holyrood.^ A collegiate church, dedicated to St John the Baptist, was founded at Cor- storphine in 1429 by Sir John Forrester, who died in 1440, and whose mail-clad effigy still lies in an arched recess within the parish church.'^ Three etymologies of the name have been suggested, all regarding the first syllable as cross. Chalmers says : " It obtained doubtless that name from a cross which may have been erected in memory of some person having the dignified name of Torfin. But it is not easy to connect it with Torfin, the grandson of ' Scotsman, Article No. xiii. -^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. x. p. 596. ^ R. M. S. •> Gall. Top. " Liber Cart. S. Crucis, p. 4. " Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian, pp. 295.298. CROSSES. 169 Malcolm II." 1 "Another derivation," according to the writer of the article in the ' N. S. A.,' ^ is " from the Norman or French words crois d'ore fin, or ' cross of fine gold.' " The writer adds: "This we think the more probable from the circumstance that the earliest proprietors of Crostorfin were Normans, who in that age were devoted friends of the Church, and fond of the emblem of the cross. Tradition likewise supports this derivation, and connects with it the existence of a gold cross in the chapel of the estate in early times." The Rev. J. B. Johnston thinks that the name means the Cross of the "White Clear Hill, — from torr, a hill, and fionn, white. He equates the last two syllables with Torphins in Aberdeenshire. The latter, however, is accented on the second syllable, and cannot therefore be the same as the concluding part of Corstorphine, which has the accent on the first.^ The second etymology given above is im- probable. The first is feasible, but does not rest on any definite historical knowledge. The problem, indeed, is difficult, and still waits for a solution. Hollows as well as hills are associated with the cross. In the lordship of Ettrick Forest is, or was in 1587, Corscleuch, signifying " the Cleuch or narrow Valley of the Cross." About the same time the barony of Bedrule, in Roxburghshire, had also a Corscleuch. Hope, a valley, appears in the name of Corshope in the barony of Heriot- mure, Mid- Lothian, mentioned in a charter of 1622.* Croceden was on the lands of Panmure, Forfarshire, in 1610.* Gill is the Norse for a ravine. The word is found in Crossgills, a hamlet about half a mile north-west of Ruthwell station, in Dumfriesshire. Cross and dale are associated in topography. In 1650 we find Corsdaill (Cross- dale) in the barony of Farr, Sutherland ; and in 1596 Corsdaillis (Crossdales) in the lordship of Barry, Forfar- shire.* In Mid-Lothian is Glencorse parish, with a somewhat chequered history. Dr Hew Scott says: " Glencross or ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 787. " Mid-Lothian, p. 205. 3 Torfin is the name of a tract of country in West Calder parish.— 'N. S. A., Mid-Lothian,' p. 205. * R. M. S. = Ibid. " Ibid. 170 CROSSES. Glencorse was a parish before the Reformation, but was held with Dalkeith and Lasswade 1574- 1580, and with Lasswade 1585-1586. In 1588 it was held with Penicuik, in 1589 downwards with Lasswade, to which it was united by Act of Parliament before January 1611. In 1615 various communings were held with the Presbytery that a minister might be procured for itself, which probably led to the appointment of a colleague for Lasswade in 1616, who probably had a special charge of Glencorse, and led to its being stated that the erection of the parish took place in 1616, though it is certain no minister was appointed till 1636." ^ Regarding its name Chalmers says : " This glen or vale was so called from a remarkable cross which had been here erected by pious hands, and which also gave a name to Crosshouses." ^ It is difficult to determine whether the name originated under Celtic or Teutonic influences. If under the former, it means the Glen of the Cross ; if under the latter, the Cross of the Glen. Mr Johnston gives a different interpretation. He thinks that Glencorse is " the Glen of the Bog or Moss " (Welsh and Cornish cors).^ Portions of land are to be met with in association with crosses, sometimes as the plots of ground where such monu- ments were erected, sometimes as the ground devoted to the upkeep of some altarage of the Holy Cross or Rood. Thus in different parts of the country we find such names as Corseland, Corsrig, Cross-Acre, Rood-land, Rood-rig, Rood- Acre, Crossfield, and Crossfaulds. Cosmo Innes mentions that attached to the cross of Melrose is a piece of ground called the Corse Rig, and that about half a mile west of the town is another known as the High Cross.* We find Corsrigs in the barony of Spittal at Aberdeen, mentioned in a charter of date 1585.^ Achadh-na-Croise, in Mull, is the Gaelic for Field of the Cross, and one would be inclined to say that Dalcross in Inverness-shire has the same meaning, were it not that the old form of the latter ' Fasti EcclesiEE Scoticanse, Part I., p. 280. ^ Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 809. •' Scottish Place-Names, s.v. " Glencorse." ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 286. » R. M. S. CROSSES. 171 was Dealg-na-Ros, which has nothing to do either with field or cross, though its etymology is uncertain. Crocequa in Bower parish, Caithness, is from the Norse quoy, an en- closure, specially for sheep. Level spaces of ground where a cross stood were indicated by the name Crossflat or Crossflats — e.g., Crossflat, Easter and Wester, within the regality of Paisley; Crossflat be- longing to Dryburgh Abbey ; a croft of seven acres at Holy- wood called Crossflat ; and Crossflats at Linlithgow. In a charter of 1635 we read of Croceflatt and Templar-lands of " Corsbethlein in the barony of Dirltoun." There is a group of names of doubtful etymology resembling Crossflat or Crossflats, but without the / — e.g., Corslat at Ochiltree; Corslat at Castle Semple; Corslat near Dumbarton (now Crosslet); Easter and Wester Corslattis of Balligerno, Perthshire ; Corslet at Meigle ; and Corsleittis in the barony of Duffus — all occurring in charters between 1585 and 1624. '^ Corslie or Crosslee is evidently connected with A.S. leak, Mid. Eng. ley or lay, and Mod. Eng. lea, a meadow.^ The ' Register of the Great Seal ' gives a Corslie in Selkirkshire and another in Renfrewshire, the latter being Crosslee in Houston and Killallan parish. We find also Corsleis be- longing to the monastery of Holywood, and Corsleyis in the lordship of Pluscarden in Moray. Close to Moffat is Corsley Burn, flowing into the Annan. When speaking of Lesma- hagow parish, Mr J. B. Greenshields remarks : " There is still a morass extending from the east of the parish towards its centre, which is known as the Broken Cross Muir. Sound deduction would lead to the conclusion that some- where in this moor there stood a cross which became ruinous or was broken ; but as there is no record bearing upon it, ample scope is left for conjecture."^ The parishes of Balmaghie and Borgue have each a Corseyard, and Crosswood is also found in the former.* The lands of Corswode, alias Corswode-burne (in Mid- Calder parish), were confirmed to John Sandilands of Calder ^ R. M. S. The compiler of the index to vol. 1593-1608 equates Cors- flattis at Linlithgow with Corslattis and Corsleittis, also at Linlithgow. 2 Blackie's Diet, of Place-Names, s.v. "Lea." '' P. S. A. Scot., vol. vii. p. 260. ■* Gall. Top. 172 CROSSES. at Linlithgow, on the igth of December 1552.^ Middle Crosswood and Crosswoodhill are the names of two small properties in the parish of West Calder. Turriff parish, Aberdeenshire, has, or had in 1620, certain lands called Corswodheid, alias Lidmoir. Corskellie in Rothiemay parish, Banffshire, may be connected with Gaelic coille, a wood. There certainly is or was a Wodheid in the same district. In connection with the first syllable of the name, it is worth remembering that a fair on Holy-Cross Day, (3rd May) was long ago instituted in the parish. Water, as well as wood, is associated with the cross. Crosswaters is a stream in Wigtownshire flowing into the water of Luce at New Luce village. Its etymology, how- ever, is doubtful : Linncrosh is a pool in the Minnick, in Minnigaff parish, Kirkcudbrightshire. It signifies the Pool of the Cross or Gallows. Certain springs were called Cross- wells or Roodwells from having a cross in their immediate neighbourhood. At Falkirk, as Mr James Drummond tells us, "the old site of the cross is occupied by a public well, which is surmounted by the Scottish Lion. This may have formed part of the ancient market cross." ^ The Cross Well at Linlithgow is an elaborate structure. It stands beside the town -hall, and is supplied with water from a spring near Friar's Brae. The original stone-work is be- lieved to date from about 1535. The structure was several times repaired, having suffered from decay as well as from Cromwell's soldiers, and early in last century was rebuilt after the old model. It is adorned with several curious figures, and is crowned by a unicorn supporting the Arms of Scotland. A piece of ground near the churchyard of Crail in Fife is named, in a charter of date 1517, the Rudwell Croft. The spring known as the Crosswell, in Kirkcolm parish, Wigtownshire, has given name to Corse- wall, — a mansion, a ruined castle, and a headland, the last crowned by a lighthouse, completed in 1816, with a lantern 112 feet above high-water mark. There was a Corswall forming part of the lands of Whitekirk, Haddingtonshire, in 1633.3 According to the ' N. S. A.,'* Crueshill, in ' R- M. S. J p. S. A. Scot., vol. iv. p. 113. •■' R. M. S. •" Perth, p. 997. CROSSES. 173 Dunkeld and Dowally parish, means Crossbill, having de- rived its name from a spring known as Sancta Cruxwell. Sir Herbert Maxwell informs us that Rutbwell in Dumfries- shire, locally pronounced Riv-vell, is " really Rood Well,^ for so the holy well there was named from the rood or cross — the Rutbwell Cross — so well known to antiquaries." ^ This splendid monument of Christian antiquity is believed to date from the second half of the seventh century. It now stands in an apse specially built for it at Rutbwell parish church in 1887, where it enjoys the protection of the Ancient Monuments Act ; but tradition says that it origin- ally stood at Priestwoodside, now Priestside, on the shore of the Solway. The cross is 17^ feet high. Its shaft is 2 feet broad at the base, and 15 inches in thickness. As Dr Joseph Anderson remarks, " the monument is sculptured with figure-subjects on its broad faces, and on its sides with scroll-work representing a vine with birds and beasts lodging in the convolutions of its branches, and eating of its fruit." 3 Special interest attaches to the inscriptions on the cross, which are partly Latin, in Roman capitals, and partly Anglic or Northumbrian English, in Runic characters. The Runic writing consists of verses from the poem " The Dream of the Holy Rood," composed by Caedmon,* who died in 680. The cross stood in the old church of Rutbwell till 1642, when it was thrown down by order of the General Assembly that met at St Andrews on the 27th July of that year. It lay on the floor of the church till soon after 1772, when it was cast out and remained neglected in the church- yard till 1802. It was then removed by the minister of the ' Chalmers derives Ruthwell from A.S. rith, a rivulet, and weald, a woody place. — 'Caledonia,' vol. iii. p. 191. 2 Scottish Land-Names, p. 39. 3 Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. ii. pp. 232-246. * A cross, some twenty feet high, was erected on the Abbey Plain, Whitby, in honour of Caedmon, and was unveiled by Mr Alfred Austin on 2ist Sept. 1898. " The panels on the front of the cross show Christ in the act of blessing-, David playing the harp, the Abbess Hilda, and Caedmon himself in a stable singing. On the obverse is a double vine, in the loops of which are the figures of four scholars trained at Whitby in Caedmon's time, while underneath are the first nine lines of the poet's hymn of the Creation."—' Literary World,' September 30, 1898. 174 CROSSES. parish, the Rev. Dr Duncan, to the garden of the old manse. Twenty-one years later Dr Duncan reconstructed the monu- ment, and supplied arms to the cross, the originals being wanting. Of the value of the Ruthwell Cross as an heir- loom from the distant past, Dr Anderson thus writes : " No literary monument graven on stone, of such a char- acter or of greater importance in the history of literature, exists anywhere else. It is a monument unique of its kind, bearing witness to the existence of an artistic culture which, for its age, was high, and of a literary culture which but few of the succeeding ages have greatly surpassed." ^ Portincross, in West Kilbride parish, is the Port or Harbour of the Cross. Its ruined castle, anciently a posses- sion of the Boyds, is "seated within the sea- wash, on a ledge of rock forming the most projecting point of the Kilbryde coast." ^ The writer of the parish article in the 'O. S. A.'^ mentions that Portincross is locally known as Pencross. He thinks that in pre -Reformation times the port was on the line of pilgrimages to lona, via the north of Arran and the isthmus of Kintyre, and that " from it the pious travellers took their departure to do penance, or make their offerings at the sacred place." In Appin is the village of Port-na-croish, which must at one time have been a place of some importance on account of its position with regard to St Moluac's island of Lismore, lying opposite. Crossaig, in Kintyre, means the Cross Bay, aig being the Norse vik in an altered form. Crossford is in Lesmahagow parish, Lanarkshire, at the influx of the Nethan into the Clyde. Mr J. B. Greenshields remarks: "That a cross was erected at this ford over the river Clyde is highly prob- able ; but whether on the Lesmahagow or Lanark side of it cannot now be determined." * There may have been a cross marking the ford, but the name does not necessarily imply this, for Crossford probably simply means the ford across (the river). Fife has Crossford, a village one mile and a half W.S.W. of Dunfermline; and Dumfriesshire has Crossford in Glencairn parish. In 1612 " Corsfuirdis, 1 Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. ii. p. 245. ''■ Timothy Font's Cunnyng-ham Topographised, p. 357, note. '■> Vol. xii. p. 416, note. •" P. S. A. Scot., vol. vii. p. 260. CROSSES. 175 and Eister and Wester Corsfuirdlie," are named in a charter as situated in the barony of Renfrew.^ Under the spiritu- ality of Dryburgh Abbey in 1630 there is a reference to " one merkland of Corsfuird, worth nine bolls, three furlots, one peck." ^ This Corsfuird seems to have been in the neighbourhood of Lanark. Roodyard, at Dundee, derived its name from an ancient chapel dedicated to the Holy Rood which stood on a rock a little to the east of Carolina Point. Mr Alexander Max- well remarks : " This chapel stood by the river-side, nearly a mile east from the old burgh boundary, upon a headland which, in remote times, bore the name of Kilcraig, and also, as we find from Adair's map of 1703, Corseness, otherwise Crossness, or the Promontory of the Cross. The eminence on which the chapel stood was in great part formed of grey stone, which, when split into layers, was used as slates — a purpose for which it has indeed been long since all quarried away, excepting the lonely little burying-ground overlooking the river, still called the Rood Yard." ^ It seems to have been customary to erect a cross on spots associated with particular incidents in the lives of early saints. Adamnan records that when St Ernan was on his way from Hinba to visit Columba in lona, he expired just before meeting the latter, and that " on that spot before the door of the kiln a cross was raised, and another cross was in like manner put up where the saint resided at the time of his death."* On the last day of Columba's life, when walking with feeble steps from the barn to the monastery, "he rested half-way at a place where a cross, which was afterwards erected, and is standing to this day fixed into a millstone, may be observed on the roadside." ^ The number of crosses in lona has often been greatly exaggerated. Dr Reeves holds that " there probably never were more than two dozen real crosses standing at any one 1 R. M. S. '^ Morton's Monastic Annals, p. 316. ' Old Dundee, p. 54. * Adamnan, p. 33. * Ibid., p. 96. It was then that the incident mentioned by Adamnan occurred, of the white pack-horse, employed to carry the milk from the byre to the monastery, coming to where the saint was seated and laying- its head on his bosom with marked signs of grief. 176 CROSSES. time." Of those still remaining he names the following: St Martin's, 14 feet high, opposite the west door of the cathedral ; Maclean's, with shaft 10 feet 4 in. high, between the nunnery and the cathedral ; and St John's and St Matthews, two fragments, in the cathedral grounds. St Adamnan's Cross stood at the north end of the village, opposite Port-a-Chrossain, and St Brandon's near Tobar Orain ; but both have disappeared. So have the two large crosses which gave name to the spot still called Na Crossan Mor—i.e., the Great Crosses, on the left of the walk running northwards from the cathedral.^ The map of the island has Uamh Chrossain (Uamh an Chrosain) — i.e., the Cave of the Little Cross. A cross now in Tiree is believed to have been brought from lona. Carved on it is the figure of Death holding by the hand a female ecclesiastic, with the inscription, " Hec est Crox Michaelis Archangveli Dei Soror Anna Abbatissa De Y." Reeves thinks that it was prob- ably " a memorial or votive cross " erected during the in- cumbency of Anna, who is believed to have died in lona in 1543-^ Jocelyn tells us that St Kentigern was in the habit of erecting crosses wherever he settled for any length of time. Two of these he particularises — viz., one at Glasgow and another at Lothwerverd (Borthwick). Both crosses, he says, worked miraculous cures ; for if a sick person was tied to either of them overnight, he was often found well in the morning.^ When travelling to Wales, Kentigern tarried a while in Cumberland to preach the Gospel to its heathen inhabitants, and set up his cross in a clearing of the wood at a place now known in consequence as Crosthwaite near Keswick. The erection of several crosses at Kilrimont, now St Andrews, is recorded in connection with the story of St Regulus.* Crosses were erected to mark the spots where 1 Adamnan, Intro., p. cxxxviii j and Drummond's Sculptured Monuments in lona, plates 1-45, and 99. '' Adamnan, p. 311. The oldest cross with a date known to exist in Scotland is part of a shaft of a decorated cross at St Oran's chapel, lona, bearing the date 1489. — 'Scotland in Early Christian Times,' vol. ii. p. 131, note. " Metcalfe's Lives of Scottish Saints, p. 269. * Stuart's Sculptured Stones, vol. ii. p. 45. CROSSES. i;7 the bodies of saints rested on their way to interment.^ Thus "a place where the bearers of St Devinic's body rested was called (no doubt from the cross raised to com- memorate that circumstance) ' Crostan." " ' Mediaeval pil- grimages were made to crosses. The cross of Crail was much visited by pilgrims. There was a Rood Street in the burgh.* Readers of English history are acquainted with the crosses — twelve in number — erected on the spots where Queen Eleanor's body rested on its way from Harby in Nottinghamshire, where she died, to Westminster, where her body was interred.* There are several instances of Cross as a place-name by itself.^ There is the island of Cross in Dunrossness parish, Shetland, formerly connected with one of the prebends in the cathedral of Orkney. The Orcadian island of Westray has the parish of Cross, and Sanday has that of Cross and Burness. In Barvas parish, Lewis, is the district of Cross, named after Holy Cross Church — Teampull na Cr6 Naomh —at South Galson, in an open burying-ground beautifully situated on the shore. The building is a ruin, i8 feet by 12 feet.® Cros (Croce) is in the district of Morar, Inver- ness-shire. We find Cors in the barony of Drummakeith, Banffshire ; and the lands of Corse in Coull parish, Aber- deenshire. Cros (Corse) occurs in East Kilbride parish, Lanarkshire ; and Ayrshire has two examples — viz., Croce in Cunningham, and Corss in Ballantrae parish, in Carrick.' ' Walcot, in his ' Sacred Archseolog-y ' (p. 192), remarks : "Crosses were set at the head of graves as early as the time of St Patrick, and before the middle of the eleventh century there was always a central cross erected in churchyards to remind people of the reverence due to the sacred spot." Crosses erected for penitential pui-poses were known as weeping crosses. '■' Stuart's Sculptured Stones, vol. ii. p. 46, note. ^ Register of Collegiate Church of Crail, p. 36. * The following is the complete list, as given by Rimmer in his ' Ancient Stone Crosses of England ' (p. 44) : Lincoln, Grantham, Stamford, Ged- dington, Northampton, Stony-Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St Albans, Walthara, West Cheap, and Charing. The crosses were erected between 1 291 and 1294. Only three now remain— viz., those at Geddington, North- ampton, and Waltham. ' In Iceland there are ten places called Kross — ' P. S. .-X. Scot.,' vol. xi. p. 488. * Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 42. ' R. M. S. M 1/8 CROSSES. In Colonsay is a place called Crossan, signifying Little Cross. We find cross associated with chapel and kirk. In the upper part of Cavers parish is a place called Chapel of Cross ; ^ and in the lordship of Dunblane are, or were, the lands of Crosschapel, written in 1572 Croschaple and Cors- caple. A church dedicated to the Cross or Rood in Reay parish, Caithness, gave name to Cross-Kirk, Crosskirk farm, and Cross-Kirk Bay. Its remains, with low doorway and thick walls, stand in an ancient burying-ground. Crosskirk, otherwise St Cruz, a ruin near Haroldswick in Unst parish, Shetland, was resorted to as a place of pilgrimage by some of the older inhabitants of the island even during the eighteenth century.^ Near it is the hill of Crossfield, otherwise Crucifield, running east and west near the middle of the island. Crosskirk at Peebles was a conventual church belonging to the Trinity or Red Friars, who had an hospital in the town. The church was founded by Alexander III. in 1261 in connection with the discovery of an ancient cross, described by Fordun as " quaedam magnifica crux et venerabilis." This cross, we are told, was discovered "in presence of divers honourable men, priests, clerks, and burghers," after having lain concealed for about a thousand years. Fordun^ tells us that on the stone on which the cross was found were inscribed the words, " The place of Saint Nicholas the bishop " ; and that a few paces away, what he calls a stone urn {urna lapidea — i.e., a sarcophagus) was brought to light, containing human bones thought to be those of the bishop. Cosmo Innes says : " In the fore- wall of the church, which had five windows, there was a small aperture and arch, between the third window and the door, so constructed as to make it probable to antiquaries of last century that the reliques of Saint Nicholas and the Holy Cross had been deposited there, so that they might be seen as well from without as from within the church."* ' O. p. S., vol. i. p. 334. 2 N. S. A., Shetland, p. 40. ' Scotichronicon, Book X. chap. xiv. ■• O. P. S., vol. i. p. 230. Vide also Renwick's ' Aisle and Monastery,' and Grose's 'Antiquities of Scotland,' vol. ii. pp. 51-53. CROSSES. 179 Who does not think of Holyrood Abbey^ when tracing the influence of the Cross on medieval Scotland ? The Abbey was founded by David I. in 1128 for Canons Regular of St Augustine. The tradition regarding its foundation is thus told by Sir Daniel Wilson : " The well-known legend of the White Hart most probably had its origin in some real occurrence, magnified by the superstition of a rude and illiterate age. According to the relation of an ancient service-book of the monastery, in which it is preserved. King David, in the fourth year of his reign, was residing at the Castle of Edinburgh, then surrounded with ' ane gret forest,^ full of hartis, hyndis, toddis, and sic like manner of beistis ' ; and on the Rood Day, after the celebration of mass, he yielded to the solicitations of the young nobles in his train and set forth to hunt, notwithstanding the earnest dissuasions of a holy canon named Alkwine. ' At last, quhen he wes cumyn throw the vail that lyis to the eist fra the said Castell, quhare now lyis the Cannongait, the staill past throw the wod with sic noyis and dyn of bugillis that all the bestis wer raisit fra thair dennis.' The king, separated from his train, was thrown from his horse, and about to be gored by a hart ' with auful and braid tyndis,' when a cross slipt into his hands, at sight of which the hart fled away. And the king was thereafter admonished, in a vision, to build the abbey on the spot." ^ Holyrood is believed to have derived its " name from the ' Black Rood of Scotland,' a mysterious relic which, brought to Scotland by St Margaret, was kissed by her dying lips and grasped by her dying hands ; was bequeathed to her children as a treasure above all price ; stood before the death-bed of St David ; and was regarded by all the nation '■ Holyrood Palace, as distinct from the Abbey, was founded by James IV. in 1501, and was enlarged by his successors. It was nearly destroyed by the English under the Earl of Hertford, and was almost burned down when occupied by the soldiers of Cromwell ; but was rebuilt by Charles II. on a new plan. 2 In his ' Edinburgh and its Neighbourhood,' p. 164, Hugh Miller remarks : " Undoubtedly from the character of the country around Edinburgh, and the remains found in its superficial deposits, it must have furnished a promising centre for the sportsman in the days of David, and long after." ' Old Edinburgh, p. 4. l8o CROSSES. of the Scots with deep feelings of love and awe." ^ There is a difference of opinion regarding the nature of the Black Rood. According to one view, it was a reliquary of gold supposed to contain a splinter of the true Cross, the epithet black being derived from a small ebony crucifix attached to it.^ According to another view, it was a silver rood blackened with the smoke of tapers lighted by devotees.^ Edward I. carried it off to England in 1291, but it was restored to Scotland at the peace of Northampton in 1328. When David II. invaded England in 1346, the Black Rood accompanied his army in the hope of ensuring victory. But it was captured by the English at Neville's Cross,* and was afterwards placed as a trophy in Durham Cathedral, close to St Cuthbert's shrine. There it remained for about a couple of centuries, but disappeared about the time of the Reformation, and so passed out of our history.^ ' Robertson's Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 42. In Bonn Cathedral, St Margaret is represented holding a black cross. — Husenbeth's ' Emblems of Saints,' p. 139. ^ Wilson's Reminiscences of Old Edinburgh, vol. ii. p. 238. ^ Walcott's Scoti-Monasticon, p. 36. ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. i. p. 241. ' Scoti-Monasticon, p. 36. CHAPTER XIV. CROSSES — continued. King Cay's Cross — DnveUings — Boll — Bolstadi" — By — Toun — House — Various examples — Market crosses — "The Cross," Glasgow — "The tiva Crocis " — Tollcross — Commemoration crosses — Crossraguel Abbey — Crossbasket — Boundary crosses — St Catherine' s Cross — St Mark's — St Ninian's — Lady Corse — St Magdalene's — Corsemartin — Crosmungo — Macbricha s — Crossmyloof — Rume's Cross — Binram's Cross — Mald- graym — Halo-Crosse — Barochan Cross — Crossmichael — Corsnachten — Corsnavok — Macduff- — Mugdrum — Sanctuary crosses — Crossgates, is'c. — Applecross. A TRADITION, resting indeed on no very sure basis, traces the origin of Linlithgow to King Achaius, who is said to have erected a cross there, called King Cay's Cross, as the nucleus of the future burgh.^ Though Linlithgow was not called after any such monument, supposing it to have existed, there is no doubt that various groups of houses in different parts of our land obtained their names from some adjacent cross. The Norse boll, a building or home- stead, has furnished to the topography of our western dis- tricts ^ such varying forms as Corsapool in Islay, Crossapeill in Kintyre, CrassopolHe in Mull, Crossapoll in Tiree, and Crossapoll (otherwise Crosspoll) in Coll. Regarding the last, Muir remarks : " Overlooking a fine sandy bay, near 1 Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 876. 2 The Western Isles are known to have been under the influence of the Norsemen for some 400 years— at least from about 870, when colonists came from Norway to escape the tyranny of Harold Haarfager till 1266, three years after the battle of Larg-s, in which Haco, King- of Norway, was defeated by Alexander I., King of Scots. It is not unlikely that there were Norse settlers in the Hebrides even earlier than about 870. 1 32 CROSSES. the south-east extremity of the island, is the old burial-place of Cross-poll, in which are two or three slabs, and the shaft of a cross, ornamented on both faces with foliage and scroll work, four feet nine inches in height." ^ Bolstadr, another Norse term having the same meaning, gives us Crossbost in Lewis and Crossbuster in Unst. Yet another Norse term, by, with a similar signification, accounts for several place-names, such as Corsby, Crocebie, or Crossby, as in Penninghame parish, Wigtownshire; in Legerwood parish, Berwickshire ; in Aberdeenshire, where there is also a Corsbie-Hill ; and in Ayrshire, where there is a Crossby both in Cunningham and in Kyle. The last was a chapelry in Dundonald parish, though some time in Monkton and Prestwick parish. It has a picturesque grave- yard near the entrance to the Duke of Portland's demesne of Fullarton, with a ruined church, whose roof was blown off during the memorable storm of the 25th of January 1759, when Robert Burns was born. The Rev. J. K. Hewat says : " A village used to cluster round the church. Near the latter are still visible the remains of the pillared moat where the Barons of Crosbie or Fullarton were wont to dispense justice." ^ The Anglo-Saxon ton or toun is associated with Cross in Corston, otherwise Corstoun or Crosstoun. The monastery of Culross had a Corstoun among its lands. The Kirktown of Dunnichen, in Forfarshire, was also called Corstoun or Crostoun, its lands at one time belonging to the Abbey of Arbroath. Crosston, known likewise as Corstoun, in Aber- lemno parish, is a hamlet situated near a monumental stone bearing the figure of a cross.^ Corstoun is a farm in Kettins parish, Forfarshire, and there are other examples in Moray, Fife, and Mid- Lothian. The Gaelic bal occurs in Balna- cross — i.e., the Town of the Cross. St Michael of Balna- cross was an ancient Kirkcudbrightshire parish, and formed the northern part of the present parish of Tongland. Its church, like that of Crossmichael, to be referred to later, was dedicated to Michael the Archangel. It stood on the west side of the Dee, at the village of Balnacross. "This 1 Eccles. Notes, p. 29. = ^ uttie Scottish World, p. 79. 3 N. S. A., Forfar, p. 629. CROSSES. 183 significant name," remarks Chalmers, "has been corrupted to Barncrosh which has imposed its unmeaning appellation on the estate, manour house, and hamlet of Barncross."^ A sculptured cross, with figures of men and animals, once stood at Bal-na-Croisk, near the entrance to the Sma' Glen in Perthshire, but was afterwards transferred to the village of Fowlis- Wester. The House of the Cross appears in such names as Cors- house, now Crosshouse, in Kilmaurs parish in Cunningham, and Corshous in Carrick. Near Dumfries was a building known as Corshous in 1580, and we find Corshouse on the lands of Craigbarnet, and on those of Balcoroh, both in Lennox, referred to in 1613. Certain land at Holyrood- house was known as Corshous in 1630.^ In Kettle parish we meet with Crosshouses. Crossmill is a village in Abbey parish, about two and a half miles from Paisley. In the same neighbourhood is the district of Arthurlee, with its village of Cross-Arthurlee, in the parish of Neilston. In former times the market-cross of a burgh occupied an important position in relation to civic life. It was the place where edicts were proclaimed, and where lawbreakers were punished. In the Kirk-Session Records of Elgin, under date 14th June 1664, we read: "Agnes Geddes for cursing compeired and is ordained to stand ane houre at the Meikle Crose and ane paper one her head upone Fryday " ; and on I2th June 1667, " Margeret Ogilvie is ordained to be put in the joges at the litle crose for hir misdemeners." When speaking of such crosses, Mr James Driimmond remarks: " In Scotland they generally consisted of a pillar raised upon a flight of steps, or a soUd basement without steps. On most crosses of this sort there still remains the iron staple to which the jougs were attached. ... In some cases, probably, the branks may have been fixed at the opposite side of the Cross. . . . The Market Cross some- times consisted of a larger building, having a stair inside leading to the roof, which was surrounded by a parapet, and from the centre of the roof the pillar sprang. . . . Crosses were no doubt originally ecclesiastical, and their 1 Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 324. ^ R. M. S. l84 CROSSES. transition from this character to their ordinary use is simple. In rude and lawless times we can suppose a paction of any sort being considered binding, if contracted at a cross, with its sacred significance. This would, perhaps, be rendered doubly sure if, while hand-fasting, they touched with the other hand the cross. The place where it was situated thus becoming a place of bargain-making, and the cross gradually losing its religious significance, its very cruciform shape disappearing, until at last it was transformed into the ordinary Market Cross." ^ The market-cross had also to do with the amusements of the people. At Scone, in Perthshire, for instance, where the game of hand-ball was played with enthusiasm every Shrove Tuesday, the cross was the appointed place for throwing up the ball.^ The town of Fochabers, in Banff- shire, at one time stood within the grounds of Gordon Castle, but was rebuilt on its present site beyond the ducal policies. The market-cross, however, still remains to indi- cate the spot where the houses of the vanished burgh once stood. The Cross is a well-known point in the topography of Glasgow. Contrary to the view taken by local historians that the first market-cross of the city was erected at the intersection of High Street with Rottenrow and Drygate, Sir J. D. Marwick holds that it stood " at the foot of the High Street, the site which it has occupied as far back as its history can be traced in authentic documents." ^ The Cathedral clergy, indeed, had their manses in the neighbour- hood of the former locality, but there is no evidence that " markets were held or trade and merchandise were carried on there till after the Reformation." And Sir James thinks that " the lower ground near the river being more suitable for these purposes, was chosen by the trading portion of the community — i.e., those who obtained burghal privileges in the twelfth century" for the erection of their crux /oralis. In an instrument of sasine, of date 1539, we find "the ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. iv. pp. 89-91. P7rfc also 'Scottish Market Crosses,' by J. W. Small, F.S.A. Scot. " O. S. A., vol. xvili. p. 88. ■' Glasg-ow Cliartois and Documents, 1175-1649, Part I., Pref., p. 524. CROSSES. I8S twa Crocis near Stabyll Greyne," at Glasgow, mentioned as a landmark.^ Tollcross, in the east of the city, recalls the time when tolls were paid by Glasgow to the neighbour- ing royal burgh of Rutherglen. In 1226 a charter was granted to the Bishop of Glasgow, "prohibiting the officers of Rutherglen from taking toll or custom in the town of Glasgow, or elsewhere than at the cross of Schedenestoun [Shettleston], according to use and wont." The portion of the lands of Shettleston where the cross stood was known in the sixteenth century as " the two merkland of Tow- corse." ^ Rutherglen's own market-cross, some thirteen or fourteen feet in height, stood on a pedestal six feet high with twelve steps ; but was removed, along with the Tron, in 1777.^ Dr John Stuart thus refers to an example in Aberdeenshire corresponding to the Shettleston one: "On the boundary of the parishes of Fyvie and Rayne is a pillar called the ' Towstane,' at which, it is believed, a tax or impost was levied in early times." Dr Stuart adds: "The monument described as ' Towcross ultra arcum occidentalem de Edinburgh ' marked the site of a similar exaction."* Crosses were sometimes commemorative of notable persons. King's Cross in Arran^ is believed to mark the spot whence Robert the Bruce sailed when on his expedi- tion into Carrick. King's Crossbill is in Rutherglen parish ; but who the king was in this instance is uncertain. At Kinghorn, in Fife, a cross stood for centuries, to show where King Alexander III. met his death by falling from his horse on March 19, 1286. It gradually went to decay, but was replaced on the sixth centenary of the event by another cross bearing a suitable inscription. A mile north of Eccles, in Berwickshire, is a white sandstone pillar locally known as Crosshall. The shaft, ten feet in height, has a cross carved on it, along with other sculpturings. ' Glasgow Charters and Documents, 1 175-1649, p. 15. ' Ibid., Pref., p. xi and p. 525. ' Ure's Rutherglen and East Kilbride, p. 80. * Sculptured Stones, vol. ii. p. 44. ' "The King's Cove on the west coast; Dairy, or the King's Plain; Toranrigh, or the King's Mount,— are said to have received their names from their connection with the Bruce."— 'N. S. A.,' Bute, p. 20. i86 CROSSES. The monument is said to date from Crusading times, in the twelfth century, and to have been erected to the memory of the father of Sir John de Soules.^ Crosshall is a village in Polmont parish, Stirlingshire; and Linlith- gowshire has, or had, a Corshall. Crossraguel Abbey, two miles south of Maybole, has been connected etymologically with Crux regalis, or Cross of King Oswald, whose name is kept alive in the neighbouring parish of Kirkoswald. But a difficulty in the way of this derivation lies in the fact that the form crux regalis does not appear in any of the Abbey charters till 1547-48, when we find it in a discharge by Abbot Quintin to the Earl of Cassillis. In charters, Crossraguel is spelt in no fewer than forty-one ways, the very earliest form of the name being " Crosragmol." ^ Crossbasket, in East Kilbride parish, got its name, ac- cording to Ure, from " a cross that stood at a small distance from the tower, and in the lands of Basket." Ure adds : "Near the foot of this religious monument was a sacred font. Both were of stone. On the font was a long inscrip- tion, but so much obliterated that the characters have not been legible for more than a century past. These hallowed remains of superstition, like many of the greatest monu- ments of antiquity, fell, about fifty years ago, a sacrifice to avarice and ignorance ; and report says that the person who destroyed them never after did well."^ Cosmo Innes tells us that " the lands of Corsbaskat, along with certain others, were erected into the lordship of Hamilton by James II. in 1445."* The name, therefore, is by no means modern. Crosses were used to indicate the boundaries of lands, particularly of church-lands. To this class probably belongs the greywacke pillar, fully three feet high, with an encircled cross and mutilated inscription, containing the words " petri APVSTOLI," which, till lately, stood by the roadside near Whithorn, but is now under cover at the cathedral in the burgh. The names of particular saints were often given to ' Lewis's Topog. Diet., s.-'. " Eccles." ■^ CliHrters of Abbey of Crossragfuel, vol. i., Intro., p. Ixvi. ^ History of Rutlierglen and East Kilbride, p. 154. ■• O. P. S., vol. i. p. 107. CROSSES. 187 such crosses. The Cross of St Catherine, for instance, in the barony of Forbes, Aberdeenshire, is specified as a boundary mark in a charter to James Forbes of Auchintowil in 1523 ; 1 and St Mark's Cross " on the lands of Brackin- hirst, between the baronies of Dalrymple and Alloway" in Ayrshire, occurs in a similar connection in a charter of date 1475.'' Whether marking boundaries or not, crosses were often named after saints. In 1490, St Ninian's Cross at Paisley is mentioned in connection with a grant made to the burgh by the abbot of the monastery there.^ A cross dedicated to the Virgin, known as Lady Corse, stood at one time near Maybole ; and St Magdalene's Cross at Linlithgow indicated the spot where St Magdalene's Fair used to be held. When referring to the Canongate at Edinburgh, Stotherd remarks : " A circle of stones, intersected by a cross, may be seen in the pavement opposite to the entrance of S. John's close, where S. John's Cross used fo stand. And a similar memorial of the Girth Cross, at the western limit of the Sanctuary, remains near the Watergate. "* Corsemartin in Balmaghie parish, and Crosmungo in Wauchopdale, point to crosses dedicated respectively to St Martin and St Mungo.^ To the north-west of the Moor of Dinnet, in Aberdeenshire, is Loch Kinnord ; and on its shore once stood a stone styled Macbricha's Cross, having on one side a decorative cross elaborately wrought. It is now to be seen in a plantation within the grounds of Aboyne Castle, whither it was removed about eighty years ago.^ Crossmyloof, near Glasgow, is said to have derived its name from some words used by Queen Mary in connection with the battle of Langside. The late Mr A. M. Scott thus records the tradition, which, however, he wisely thinks is without foundation : " Queen Mary, on being assured by the gentlemen about her that, in consequence of the position ' Antiquities of Shires of Aberdeen and Banff, vol. iv. p. 143. '' Charters of Burg^h of Ayr, p. 91. ' Paisley Burgh Charters, p. 34. ■* Parochial and CoUeg-iate Antiquities of Edinburgh, Last Series, p. 1 19. ' Mentioned in Charter of 1612.— ' R. M. S.' * Michie's History of Loch Kinnord, p. 43. l88 CROSSES. occupied by the rebel force, it would be impossible for her to get to Dumbarton, placed her crucifix in the palm of her hand and passionately exclaimed : ' By the cross in my loof, I will be there to-night in spite of yon traitors.' " ^ To find the true derivation is not easy ; but we are on safer ground if we regard the second syllable as the honorific -ma or -mo, and the third as the name of some saint, possibly that of Luag in an altered form. Rume's Cross is a knoll about a mile north of the church of Farnell in Forfarshire. It bears the name of St Rumwold or Rumoldus, who was by birth a Saxon, but was probably trained in Ireland during the first half of the eighth century. He went to Rome, and afterwards to Brabant, where he preached the Gospel. In 775 he suffered martyrdom at Machlenia (now Malines), where a church was built in his honour. His day in the calendar is ist July.^ South of the Tweed he is remembered in Romald-Kirk, Yorkshire, and Rumbold's Wyke, Sussex. About 400 yards from the site of St Mary's Chapel, in Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, is a small mound called Binram's Cross, which, according to the ' N. S. A.,' is probably, as tradition represents, the burial-place of some necromantic priest. In mediaeval times a cross called Maldgraym stood at Arbroath, and gave its name to a piece of grass-land styled in the Burgh Court Book " Madie Gramis-Croce."^ A cross at Carnwath, in Lanarkshire, dedicated to All-Saints, and known as Halo- Crosse, was connected with a singular custom thus described by Cosmo Innes : " This barony of Carnwath affords one of the few instances of jocular tenures that occur in Scottish charters. Part of the reddendo was ' the price of two pair of stockings, made of two halfs of an ell of English stuff, to be given on the feast of Saint John at Midsummer to the quickest runner of a race from the east end of the town of Carnwath to the cross called Halo-crosse.' " * Barochan Cross, an elaborately sculptured monument in Houston and Killallan parish, is connected by Bishop Forbes with the name of St Berchan,^ who is still remembered in ^ The Battle of Langside, p. 80. - Butler's Lives of the Saints. ' Black's History of Arbroath. ■* O. P. S., vol. i. p. 127. » Kal., s.v. " Berchan." CROSSES. 189 the adjoining parish of Kilbarchan ; but there is some doubt as to the identification of Barochan and Berchan. The cross, which is eleven or twelve feet high, was formerly situated close to the Mill of Barochan, but was removed about the end of last century to an adjoining rising ground, where the old mansion-house of Barochan once stood. The writer of the parish article in the 'O. S. A.'i remarks: "Some call it a Danish cross ; perhaps it might be intended as a devotional cross for travellers." There is a good deal of un- certainty as to its purpose. Dr John Stuart says: "Modern theory has sought in it a monument of the defeat of Somer- led. Lord of the Isles, in 1164."^ The parish of Cross- michael, on the Dee in Kirkcudbrightshire, commemorates the Archangel Michael in its name. " Here," remarks Heron, " stood anciently a cross sacred to St Michael, around which the peasantry of the neighbouring country were wont to assemble, at Michaelmas, to a fair. The fair is still held. The cross has been removed." ^ In a charter of 1558 we find mention of Corsnavok, in the barony of Sanquhar, Dumfriesshire, probably so called from St Neamhag or Neamhog* (pronounced Nevag and Nevog, a diminutive of Neamha), an abbot who succeeded Luag at Lismore, and died circa 610. In a charter of 1554 occurs Corsnachten, in the barony of Tillicoultry, Clackmannan- shire ; and in 1581 we find the form Corsnathan, both recall- ing in all probability St Nathalan of Aberdeenshire, who appears in the Felire ofjEngus as " Neachtan nair de albae," which the gloss throws into a more modern form, " anair de Albain " — i.e., Nechtan from the east, from Alba.^ In the Middle Ages every church and churchyard formed a sanctuary, but certain churches had a special sanctity attaching to them which made their sanctuary ground all the more sacred. The crosses of Macduff and Mug- drum, near Abernethy in Perthshire, are believed to have been girth -crosses. They are distant about a mile from each other, and are both associated with the name of St 1 Vol. i. p. 326. " Sculptured Stones, vol. i. p. 36. ' Journey, vol. ii. p. 136. * Off is the honorific diminutive so often found in the names of saints. = Kal., s.v. "Nathalan." igo CROSSES. MacGidrin, otherwise St Adrian. The Rev. D. Butler says : " The crosses of Mugdrum and Macduff are now within the bounds of the neighbouring parish of Newburgh. . . . The church-lands were very extensive, extending many miles on the east side of the Abernethy monastery, and probably as many on the other sides ; there were most likely crosses on the other sides for a similar purpose, but the Mugdrum Cross and the Macduff Cross originally served the purpose on the eastern side, indicating the church-girth or right of sanctuary."^ The monastery of Dull, in Strath-Tay, had girth-crosses. Remains of these are still to be seen. The same may be said of the stones that were set to indicate the limits of the sanctuary at Torphichen, connected with the Preceptory of the Knights of St John. There were four of these, each about a mile distant from a central stone in the churchyard, and all of them were marked with a cross.^ When speaking of St Machar's Cathedral at Old Aberdeen, the writer of the " View of the Diocese of Aberdeen " remarks : " This Cathedral had the privilege of a sanctuary or girth, and had a Girth-Cross on the Bishop's dovecote-green, which was a sure refuge for manslayers." ^ Tain, in Ross- shire, had an immunitas or privilege of girth granted by Malcolm Canmore, the space protected by the immunitas being marked off by four crosses.* A secular sanction was sometimes added to the ecclesiastical right of sanctuary possessed by a church. David I., in 1144, made the church of Lesmahagow a cell of the monastery of Kelso, and granted his " firm peace " to all who should flee for safety to the said cell or succeed in getting within the four crosses that stood around it, placed there in honour of God and St Machutus, the patron saint of the church.^ We find Crossgates, i.e., Crossways, occurring as a place- name — e.g., Crossgates near the march between Carluke ' The Ancient Church and Parish of Abernethy, p. 236. ^ N. S. A., Linlithgow, p. 49. ' Collections for a History of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff, p. iS'- ■• Stuart's Sculptured Stones, vol. ii. p. 67. ° Lib. de Calchou, vol. i. p. lo. CROSSES. 191 and Lanark parishes ; Crossgates in Cults parish, Fife ; and Crossgates, three miles east by south of Dunfermline. Mr Alfred Rimmer remarks: "Cross-roads were held peculiarly sacred in the early times ; and even as far back as the period of the Druids they were marked by upright stones, and these stones were chiselled on the upper part with a cross in relief." ^ In the instances of Crossgates just given, there was no necessary reference to any cross erected to mark the spot, though of course in mediaeval times a wayside cross may have stood at the parting of the roads. There was a Corsgait at Coldingham, and in the same neighbourhood was "the commoun gait in the mure callit the Croslawgait." Crossgatehall is a hamlet in Inveresk parish. We find Crossroads in the parishes of Dreghorn and Grange, and, in 1647, Corsway in the barony of Johnstoun in Annandale. Corsbauld, in For- doun parish, locally pronounced Cosbet, is a corruption of Crosspath — i.e., the path across the hills to Banchory- Ternan, and was so written in a thirteenth-century charter.^ Two miles from Mauchline is a place bearing the curious name of Crosshands. Applecross, in Ross-shire, calls for mention in conclusion. The word is derived from aber, a confluence, and Crossan, the name of the stream flowing into the sea close to the spot where, in 673, St Maelrubha founded his monastery. Bishop Reeves remarks : " We have no means of ascer- taining at what period the apur passed into apil, and crossan into cross ; but the change probably arose from a tendency to facilitate the utterance of the compound."^ Two absurd etymologies are given in the ' O. S. A.' * and the ' N. S. A.' » respectively, and are as follow : (i) " Applecross is a fanci- ful designation assumed by one of the proprietors of that part of the parish from which it derives its name. In com- memoration of this, five apple-trees were planted cross-ways, and have since in form been perpetuated by his successors." (2) " The modern name Applecross was given to the parish ' Ancient Stone Crosses of England, p. ii. 2 Annals of Fordoun, p. lo. '' P. S. A. Scot, vol. iii. p. 273. * Vol. iii. p. 369. ^ Ross, p. 100. 192 CROSSES. by the gentleman who was proprietor of the Comaraich^ estate at the time of the erection ; in commemoration of which event five apple-trees had been planted cross-ways in the proprietor's garden. In his article in the ' P. S. A. Scot.,'^ on the churches of St Maelrubha, Bishop Reeves, when criticising the apple-tree etymology, remarks : " When the writer visited Applecross in 1854, he was informed by the then minister that the cross trees which yielded the name were chestnut instead of apple ! A communication lately received from the spot suggests a solution by supposing ' a cross of trees with a crab apple in the centre.' Another and more ecclesiastical version of the etymology is, that every apple which grew in the monk's garden was marked with the sign of the cross." ' "Comaraigh signifies Girth or Sanctuary, and was applied to the privi- leged ground round the church. According to the ' Breviary of Aberdeen ' this ground extended six miles from it in all directions " — ' P. S. A. Scot.,' vol. ii. p. 274. '■^ Vol. iii. p. 273. CHAPTER XV. THE VIRGIN. The Virgin 1 Doiver — Her Dedications in Scotland — Their late date — Absence of Mariolatry in Celtic Church — Growth of cultus — -Influence of Roman Church — Wales and Ireland — Springs dedicated to Virgin — Tobermory, isfc. — Kilmorie — Kilmore — Kirriemuir — Kilmuir — Kil- murry — Lady — Lady Kirk, is'c. • — Lady Acre — Ladyland, isfc. — Mary — St Mary's Holm, isfc. — St Mary's Isle — St Mary's Loch — Con'vent at Montrose — Old Montrose — Maryton — Marykirk — Mary- culter — Loretto — Snotvkirk at Old Aberdeen — Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Medieval England was known as the Virgin's Dower. The same might have been said of mediaeval Scotland, for there are many places north of the Tweed which suggest, under one form or another, the name of the Virgin. This is not to be wondered at when we bear in mind the great number of abbeys,^ parish churches, chapels, and altars placed under her invocation. To these should be added St Mary's College in Old Aberdeen, founded by Bishop Elphinstone in 1500, the name being afterwards changed to King's in comphment to James IV. ; and St Mary's College at St Andrews, founded by Archbishop James Beaton in 1537, and still known by the same name. There is no doubt that most, if not all, of her dedications date from a comparatively late period. Principal Story says: "As regarded dogma and usage, perhaps the most obvious difference between the Columban and the Roman Church was the absence of any trace of Mariolatry."^ 1 AH the Cistercian abbeys— e.^., Melrose and Dundrennan— were dedi- cated to the Virgin. ^ Apostolic Ministry in the Scottish Church, p. 86. N 194 THE VIRGIN. Colonel Robertson bears witness to the slightness of Rome's hold on the primitive Church of Scotland when he observes, "It is very remarkable how very few of the ancient Gaelic churches were dedicated to St Peter or to the Virgin Mary.''^ In both the East and the West the cultus of the Virgin wasof gradual growth during the first four centuries. It received an impulse in the fifth century when, at the Council of Ephesus in 431, Nestorius was condemned as a heretic, and Mary was proclaimed theotokos — i.e., the Mother of God. When the influence of the Roman Church supplanted that of the Celtic in Scotland, the veneration of the Virgin grew in strength until the Reformation, when it received a blow from which it has not since recovered. In Wales, too, her cultus was scarcely recognised in early times ; while in Ireland, as Petrie reminds us,^ none of the ancient churches were dedicated to the Virgin or to any foreign saint before the twelfth century. Fountains were frequently placed under the protection of the Virgin. It was natural, therefore, that such springs should have an influence on our topography. Tobermory, in the north of Mull, means Mary's Well, from Gaelic tobar, a well, and Moir, Mary. In 1540 it was written Tibbirmore.^ At Tobermory are the ruins of an ancient chapel and a well dedicated to the Virgin, showing the appropriateness of the name ; but the place itself is modern, having been built in 1788 by the British Fisheries' Company, to serve as a rendezvous for herring - vessels. Tibbermuir, otherwise Tibbermore, a parish in Perthshire, has the same meaning as Tobermory. The writer of the article on Tibbermuir in the ' N. S. A.' * says : " This word signifies ' a great well,' referring in all probability to a perennial spring that once issued from behind the church, and was long known by the name of the Lady Well, but which has lately been carried away by the draining of the adjacent field." More certainly means "great" in Gaelic,^ and Tibbermore might signify " great well " ; but the fact that the spring in this case was ' Gaelic Topography, p. 399. a Eccles. Archaeology, p. 173. 8 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 324. •> Perth, p. 1028. "> lona Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin, is known in Gaelic as Eglais Mor, but this signifies, not Mary's Church, but the Great Church. THE VIRGIN. 195 called " the Lady well " points to a connection between the Virgin and the name of the parish. There is Ladywell estate in Duns parish, Berwickshire ; and in Craig parish, Forfarshire, near the village of Usan, is Marywell, close to the site of a vanished chapel which gives name to Chapel Mill in the immediate neighbourhood.^ There is Ladywell hamlet in Kirkbean parish, Kirkcudbright- shire; and near Dunkeld in Perthshire are the lands of Ladywell, referred to in a charter of 1598. On the east bank of the Molendinar Burn at Glasgow was a spring known as the Lady Well, the resort of many a pilgrim in the Middle Ages. It has given name to the quoad sacra parish of Ladywell, and to a street running north and south past the Drygate. Near the shore, not far from Saddell Abbey in Kintyre, is Lady Mary's Well, called, not after the Virgin, but, as we learn from Colonel T. P. White, " in honour of a noble lady of the house of Saddell, who, ac- cording to the tradition, 'would drink no other water.' "^ Mother Water, a well on Prestrie {i.e., Priestery) farm in Whithorn parish, is probably named, as Sir Herbert Maxwell suggests, from its dedication to the Virgin.^ There is no doubt that the town of Motherwell in Lanarkshire, partly in Hamilton parish and partly in Dalziel parish, owes its name to the Virgin. There is a spring called Our Lady's Well close to the manor of Motherwell. The name is written " Modyrwaile " in a charter of 1352, granted by David IL to Robert Stewart of Scandbothy (afterwards Robert II.)* Churches dedicated to the Virgin have originated a variety of place-names. We have, for instance, Kilmory, Kilmorie, Kilmore, and Kilmuir, all signifying Mary's Cell or Church. In Ireland, Kilmurry is a common form of the name. Dr Joyce tells us that it " is the name of nearly fifty townlands in which there must have been churches dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, for the Irish name is Cill-Mhuire, Mary's Church." 5 In Scotland we have the parish of Kilmory in 1 Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. p. 42. 2 ArchEeological Sketches in Scotland, Kintyre, p. 177. 3 Gall. Top. ' O- P- S- vol. i. p. 58. * Place-Names of Ireland, p. 304. 196 THE VIRGIN. Arran, comprising the south-west portion of the island. The present parish church is at Kilmory, on the site of an older building. In a.d. 1357 Kilmory was known as " Ecclesia Sanctae Marie de Arane," in 1549 as Kylmure, in 157 1 as Kilmorie, and circa 1700 as Kilmore.^ In Mull there are two localities named Kilmorie, one in the district forming the ancient parish of Kilninian, and now included in the united parish of Kilninian and Kilmore, and the other in the parish of Kilfinichen and Kilvickeon. There is a Kilmory estate in Kilmichael-Glassary parish, Argyll, on the east side of Loch Gilp. The foundations of the Virgin's church there were visible till the beginning of last century. Its graveyard continued to be the favourite place of interment even after a new cemetery was formed at Lochgilphead. At Kilmory in the island of Bute, on the west coast, opposite Inchmarnock, are the ruins of an ancient castle once the property of the Jamiesons, crowners or coroners of Bute.^ Regarding the chapel that gave name to the place, the Rev. Dr J. K. Hewison remarks : " Kil- morie (Church of Mary) is built upon the rocky face of the hill, 220 yards south of Little Kilmory farm, a short dis- tance above the highway, and is a ruin still well- defined since the Marquess of Bute had the hidden site excavated."' There is an ancient chapel at Kilmorie Knap, in South Knapdale parish, Argyll, close to the shore, half-way be- tween Lochs Swin and Killisport. As we learn from the 'N. S. A.,'* "the chapel of Kilmorie Knap seems to have been the most considerable in South Knapdale. Its walls are almost entire ; a beautiful obelisk or cross stands on the west side of the burying-ground." This cross is about twelve feet high, including the pedestal, and has a repre- sentation of the Crucifixion on its western face with two figures, probably the Virgin and St John, one on either side of our Lord.® Kilmory Knap is so called to distinguish it from Kilmory of Oib,*' another ecclesiastical site in the district. ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 253. » N. S. A., Bute, p. 104. ' Island of Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 233. * Argyll, p. 263. " Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 195. " White's Archaeological Sketches in Scotland, Knapdale, p. 59. THE VIRGIN. 197 When speaking of Ardnamurchan parish, Cosmo Innes says : " At Kilmory, on the north coast, there was another church apparently dedicated to the Virgin and still partly in existence, which in the seventeenth century appears to have been the parish church." ^ On Scarba island, near Jura, is another Kilmorie, where, close to the shore, stand the ruins of a chapel to the Virgin, in which certain miracles were believed to have been wrought in mediaeval times.^ In 1773 the remains of a chapel to the Virgin were to be seen at Kilmory, on the north-west coast of the island of Rum. Some obscure traces of the building were still to be seen when Muir visited the spot in 1856. " Near its site," he tells us, "is a slender pillar incised with a plain cross." ^ In Kirkcolm parish, Wigtownshire, were visible, in 1837, some traces of Kilmory chapel on the coast of Loch Ryan, about a mile and a half from the parish church. The Virgin's Well near it had the " discriminating power of becoming dry if the patient, for whom its water was sought, had a mortal malady, but of appearing in abundance if the disease was curable."* Another Kilmorie calls for mention, inasmuch as its dedication has been ascribed to the Virgin erroneously, though not unnaturally. This is Kilmorie, the ancient name of the Argyll parish of Craignish. According to Bishop Reeves, it was dedicated to Maelrubha, and not to Mary as stated in the 'N. S. A.'^ Reeves remarks: " Craignish is a parish about the middle of the west coast of Argyllshire, marked by Blaeu, Kilmolrow, and called in the Retours Kilmalrew and Kilmolrew, sometimes Kilmorie. The true explanation is Cill-Maelrubha, Maelrubha's Church. It stood between the castle of Craignish and the extremity of the peninsula, Ardcraignish." ^ The confusion arose, as Dr Reeves indicates, through " Maelrubha becoming Maree, Marie, Mary, Mury, which is the equivalent pronunciation of the name in Ross-shire and Argyll, and in speaking is sufficiently distinct from Mary, the female name, though on paper it is apt to be confounded with it, and has, in 1 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 194. '^ Ibid., p. 276. ^ Eccles. Notes, p. 33. ^ N. S. A., Wigtown, p. iii. * Argyll, p. 45. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. iii. p. 293. 198 THE VIRGIN. many instances, caused the patronage of ancient churches under Celtic foundation to be transferred to the Virgin Mary instead of Maelrubha." ^ Yet another Kilmorie may be mentioned — the ancient name of the parish of Stralach- lane, united to Strachur in 1650. The ' N. S, A.'^ derives it from Kill and Muire, the Virgin Mary. In 1543, " Sanct our Lady Alter situat within the Kirk of Stralachlane " * is mentioned ; but there is reason to believe that the church itself, like the one at Craignish, was called after Maelrubha, and not after Mary. This, at least, is the conclusion reached by Bishop Reeves.* In Lorn district, Argyll, is the united parish of Kilmore and Kilbride. Kilmore church, said to have been built about the time of the Reformation, stands four and a half miles south-east of Oban, near the head of Loch Feachan. We read regarding it : " The church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, has outside nothing architectural to mark its antiq- uity. Inside, at the east end, is a low circular arch (prob- ably once over an altar tomb)."' The island of Mull has a Kilmore in the united parish of Kilninian and Kilmore; but one cannot be certain whether the name in this case means Great Church or Mary's Church.^ In Sleat parish, Skye, Kilmore, called in 1546 " Kilmoir in Slait," is situ- ated near the middle of the parish. Its church was dedi- cated probably to the Virgin.^ In a charter of 1469, quoted in ' Registrum Monasterii de Passelet,' ^ reference is made to " Capellam de Kylmor apud Kenlochgilpe cum pertinentiis suis"; but this is evi- dently the Kilmory in Kilmichael-Glassary parish alluded to above. The kirk of Kilmoir, Kilmarie, or St Mary once stood on the north side of the South Esk, close to Brechin Cathedral and within the grounds of Brechin Castle.' As we learn from the 'Registrum Monasterii Brechinensis,''" ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. iii. p. 277. 2 Argyll, p. 103. " O. p. S., vol. ii. p. 74. ■■ P. S. A. Scot., ut supra. » O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 826. " In Ireland, Kilmore is sometimes equivalent to Coill-mhor — i.e., Great Wood, but commonly to Cill-m6r — i.e., Great Church. — Joyce's 'Irish Place-Names,' p. 475. ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p 340. ' P. 309. " Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. p. 308. '» Vol. ii. p. 366. THE VIRGIN. 199 " a gift for life of the prebend of Kilmoir, founded within the Cathedral of Brechin, was granted in the year 1576 to James Cokburne, brother - german to John Cokburne of Clerkingtoun, in order that he might the better give attend- ance to study virtue and good letters." A house at the foot of Chanonry Wynd, with an excellent garden attached, served in former times as the manse of the rector of Kil- moir.^ Kirkhill parish, Inverness-shire, is known in Gaelic as Cnoc-mhoir, signifying Mary's Hill. Kirkhill, as Shaw tells us, was anciently a parsonage dedicated to the Virgin.^ Elian More, off Coll, Elian More, near the mouth of Loch Swin, and Island More, one of the Flannan group, all signify Great Island ; but Island More, the form given by Martin,^ usually written Elian Mhuire, one of the Shiant Isles off Lewis, means Mary's Isle. In Martin's time it contained a chapel to the Virgin. Loch Muire, whence flows Alness river, is situated in the north-east part of Alness parish, Ross-shire, and means Mary's Loch. It derived its name fi"om a now ruined chapel to the Virgin, built in a romantic glen at one end of the loch. The loch itself is three miles in length. It is very deep, and is surrounded by steep rocks. Near the chapel is Tobair-na-Muire — i.e., Mary's Well — formerly credited with healing virtues. Regarding this well the writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.'* remarks : " Pieces of coloured cloth were left as offerings to the numen of the place. The offerings made to the officiating priest were probably more substantial and valuable donations." Kirriemuir, in Forfarshire, is locally known as Kellamuir. In 1632, and at other dates, we find the name written Killie- muire or Killimuir. Its church was dedicated to the Virgin, and we may safely equate Killiemuir with Marykirk. Early in the thirteenth century its church was given by Gil- christ, Earl of Angus, to the recently founded monastery of Arbroath. Jervise says : " All record goes to show that Kirriemuir, which received its name from the patroness of the church (Kil-Mary), was a place of importance in early 1 Black's History of Brechin, p. 257. ^ Prov. of Moray, p. 361. ' Western Isles, p. 27. * Ross, p. 344. 200 THE VIRGIN. times. When the old church was demolished in 1787, five fragments of very interesting sculptured stones were dis- covered in its foundations."^ While recognising Kilmarie — i.e., Mary's Church — as an alternative name for Kirrie- muir, Mr Johnston interprets the latter as probably "big quarter " or " division," from Gaelic ceathramh (pronounced "carrou ") mbr.'^ An ancient dedication to the Virgin stood at Kilmuir, near the head of Dunvegan Loch in Skye, where its site is still marked by a burying-ground. Kilmuir- Easter is a coast parish of north-east Ross and Cromarty. It derived its name from a chapel to the Virgin at Delny, which stood in its burying-ground till towards the end of the eighteenth century, when the stones of the build- ing were removed and the ground was ploughed up.* Kil- muir- Wester and Suddie in the Black Isle were united in 1756 to form the present parish of Knockbain. In North Uist is Kilmuir, called " Kilmorie in Vyist " in a.d. 1576, and " Saint Mary's Church " circa 1700. The latter is the name given by Martin, who mentions the following curious superstition at one time prevailing in the parish : " There is a stone in form of a cross, opposite to St Mary's Church, about five foot high. The Natives call it the Water Cross, for the antient Inhabitants had a Custom of erecting this Sort of Cross to procure Rain, and when they had got enough they laid it flat on the ground."* In Skye is Kilmuir parish in the peninsula of Trotternish. Kilmaluag was its ancient name. " The church, dedicated to St Moluac, stood at Kilmaluag, on the north-east coast of the parish. After the Reformation the church of Kilmuir, dedicated to St Mary and situated on the north-west coast, seems to have become the parish church. Its cemetery remains, but the present church, built in 1810, stands on a different site."^ There is a Kilmuir in Kildonan parish, Sutherland; and there is also a Kilmuir in Cumbernauld parish, Dumbartonshire, both once possessing in all prob- ability a chapel to the Virgin. ' Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 363. ^ Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Kirriemuir." » O. S. A., vol. vi. p. 194 n. « Western Isles, p. 59. " O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 349. THE VIRGIN. 201 The title of " Our Lady," ^ given to the Virgin, commonly appears in topography simply as " Lady " ; though it occurs in full in " Oure-Lady-landis " (Ladylands) at Dunbar, in the ' R. M. S.,' under date 1576-77, and in " Our Lady's Chapel," "Our Lady Well," and "Our Ladyport," mentioned in the same work in connection with the lands of Lytill Kylmure in Ross-shire in 1592. We find it also, in 1586, in " Oure-Lady-Petie-land " at Scone ; in 1592 in " Our- Lady-hous " at Coldingham ; and in 1601 in " Oure Lady- land " in the barony of Strathisla in Banffshire. Lady, or Ladykirk, was an ancient parish in the south-western part of the island of Stronsay, Orkney, now included in the united parish of Stronsay and Eday. The eastern division of Eccles parish, Berwickshire, is known as the Ladies' Quarter, and has been so named after the Virgin, to whom the Cistercian nunnery, founded at Eccles by Earl Cos- patrick in 1154 or 1155, was dedicated.^ This nunnery was burned, along with the town, by the Earl of Hertford during his invasion of Scotland in 1545. Lady parish is on the east side of Sanday island, Orkney. Its church is called Ladykirk, or Kirk of Our Lady. Ladykirk, a Border parish of south-east Berwickshire, comprehends the ancient parishes of Horndean and Up- setlington. Its name is accounted for by the tradition that James IV. dedicated its church to the Virgin in gratitude for his deliverance from drowning, in the year 1500, while crossing the Tweed during a freshet of the river. The church stands near the Tweed, and has some houses in its immediate neighbourhood. A spring in the parish is ap- propriately called St Mary's Well. Ladykirk, or Northkirk, was an ancient parish in the Orcadian island of Westray, now in the united parish of Westray and Papa Westray. In Monkton parish, Ayrshire, is the estate of Ladykirk, with a mansion, two miles from Prestwick, deriving its name 1 The church of Banflf was dedicated to the Virgin, and the name of the burg-h itself has been traced to her. According- to Dr Cramond, "the Rev. Allan Sinclair, Kenmore, remarks : ' Banff is a contraction of bean-naomh, the holy woman, and the burgh coat-of-arms, we believe, bears evidence to this.'"— 'The Annals of Banff,' vol. i. p. 4. 2 H. and S., vol. ii., Part I., p. 231. 202 THE VIRGIN. from a religious foundation thus alluded to by Chalmers: " There was, before the Reformation, a religious establish- ment which was called popularly ' Our Lady Kirk of Kyle ' ; but the time of the foundation, or the nature of it, cannot now be ascertained. . . . The building formed a square, having turrets upon each corner; and there was a chapel in the middle of the square. The chapel was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, from which it obtained the popular name of ' Our Lady Kirk.' In a charter of James IV. in 1490 it is called ' Capella de la Grace.' In a grant of the same king, in 1505, which is entered in the ' Privy Seal Register ' in the Scottish language, it is called ' The Preceptory of Our Lady Kirk of Kyle.'" ^ In South Ronaldshay, the church known as Ladykirk was held in such reverence two hundred years ago that the natives of the island preferred to repair it when ruinous rather than to build a new church in a more convenient situation and at a cheaper rate.^ In Avoch parish, Ross-shire, is Ormond Hill, known also as Lady Hill, from " a chaplainry of the Virgin Mary of Ormond Hill, in the lordship of Ardemannach." ^ At Elgin is an eminence called Lady Hill or Lady's Hill, commanding a fine view of the Moray Firth and surrounding country, and crowned by a pillar bearing a statue of the last Duke of Gordon. The Castle of Elgin once stood on Lady Hill, and within the fortress was a chapel dedicated to the Virgin. In the year 1410 a certain sum was paid for the repair of this chapel, — " Pro reparacione capelle beate Virginis in monte castri de Elgyn."* A spring, a little to the west, is known as Mary Well. There is a Ladyhill in Grange parish, Banffshire, with a Ladywell at its foot. Moffat, in Dum- friesshire, has a Ladyknowe, in all probability named from some ancient chapel to the Virgin on or near it, but no trace of any such building can now be seen. Lady's Bridge is a railway station two and a half miles south-west of Banff. In Grange parish is Ladysford mansion. In the ' R. M. S.,' under date 1575-76, allusion is made to the lands of Ladeis- furde, in the barony of Pitsligo, in Aberdeenshire. Culsal- mond parish, in the same county, has a Lady's Causeway 1 Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 497. ^ Martin's Western Isles, p. 367. " O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 542. ^ Excheq. Rolls of Scot., vol. vii. p. 20. THE VIRGIN. 203 and a St Mary's Well. Ladyfield is a hamlet on the parish boundaries of Longforgan and Fowlis in Perthshire. Ladyloan is a quoad sacra parish in Arbroath and St Vigean's parishes, Forfarshire. At the end of the Bridge of Arbroath once stood a chapel to the Virgin, locally known as the chapel of Our Lady of Aberbrothock. Ladybank is mentioned in connection with it in 1592.^ In 1602 we find Ladybankis in Marykirk parish, Kincardineshire.^ A chapel dedicated to the Virgin is said to have anciently stood on the Lady Banks in the Tay, opposite Monifieth. Fife has Ladybank, a police burgh in Collessie parish; Lady Orchard and Ladyburn at Cupar, the latter falling into the Eden at the east end of the town ; and Lady Craig at St Andrews, a rock in the sea beyond the pier, where, according to an old tradition, a church was built at an early date, but was for- saken on account of the encroachments of the sea, another being then built on Kirkheugh. The rock is visible at low tide, and it is said that " a pretty copious spring of fine fresh water issues from the bottom of it." ^ In Inchinnan parish, Renfrewshire, is Lady Acre, extend- ing, not to one acre, but to two and a half acres. In the ' Continuation to Crawfurd's Renfrewshire'* we read: "A very singular circumstance is connected with the ministers of this parish, ex officio. They have claimed, as undoubted chaplains of the Altarages and Altars commonly called 'Our Lady's Altar,' founded and of old situated in the kirk and parish of Inchinnan, to be undoubted superiors of the land called Lady Acre, have granted charters, have received feu-duty, and still receive it." This was written in 1818. Since then Lady Acre has passed into lay hands. There was an altar to the Virgin in the chapel of St Nicolas ^ at Lanark, and as we learn from the Burgh of Lanark Records and Charters,^ "Our Laydy had ane akyr" in the Burgh Roods. Lady Acre Road is still a familiar name in Lanark. 1 R. M. s. ' Ibid- ' Hay Fleming's Guide to St Andrews, p. 75. * P- 385- « There was also an altar to the Virgin in the parish church of Lanark (St Kentigem's), which stood about a quarter of a mile from the burgh, and was in consequence known as the " Out Kirk."—' O. P. S.,' vol. i. p. u8. 6 P. 15. 204 THE VIRGIN. There is a Lady Acre on the lands of Crosshill in Kilwinning parish, Ayrshire; and examples of Ladycroft are found in different parts of the country, pointing to some chapel or altar to the Virgin. The following occur in charters in the ' R. M. S.' — viz., in 1489, Ladymure in Kilmacolm parish ; in 1552-53, Lady- yard at Tarbolton ; in 1569, Ladypark in Lauderdale ; in 1582, Ladyhall in Cunynghame ; in 1593, Ladyheidrig at Pittenweem ; and in 1612, Lady-cros-myre in Lochmaben parish. Ladyland estate, in Kilbirnie parish, Ayrshire, sug- gests a connection with some ancient dedication to the Virgin. Pont says : " Ladyland appears to have been from a pretty remote period secularised, and none of the local antiquaries or genealogists seem to have fallen on any direct evidence of its spiritual period."^ The House of Ladyland, described as " a strong touer," was demolished in 1815, when a new mansion was built on its site. The following are additional instances — viz., Ladyland at Hawick, Ladyland at Coldingham, Ladyland near Annan, Ladyland near Wormet, and Ladyland at Little Dunkeld. Sometimes the plural form occurs. Thus we find, in 1429, Ladylands near Crail ; in 1546, Ladylandis near Ayr; in 1605, Ladylands in Lochmaben parish ; and in the same year, Ladylands in Ruthwell parish; in 1621, Ladylands in the barony of Renfrew ; and in 1638, Ladylands near Duns.^ Lady Glen, in Dailly parish, took its name from a chapel to the Virgin, built near the lower end of the glen.* There is a Ladybank estate in Kirkoswald parish. Ladyton is at the south end of the burgh of Prestwick, while off the same coast is Lady Isle. In Maybole parish are Lady Corse, Lady Well, and Ladyland, all connected with the now ruined St Mary's collegiate church in the burgh, built in 1371 by Sir John Kennedy of Dunure, and locally called " the Auld College." ■* A chapel to the Virgin, removed more than fifty years ago, stood at Chapel-house, about half a mile from Dunlop. It was built "on the side of a rivulet which was here crossed by stepping-stones, called the Lady's Steps; and this name is still continued, although the steps have ' Cunningham Topographised, p. 134. - R. M. S. ^ O. S. A., vol. X. p. 35. ' Rev. Roderick Lawson's Maybole, p. 14. THE VIRGIN. 205 been superseded by a bridge." ^ A narrow passage near St Giles's Church in Edinburgh, formerly known as Our Lady's Steps, owed its name to a statue of the Virgin that stood till 1829 in a niche on the north-east corner of the building.^ In Kirkmahoe parish, Dumfriesshire, is Lady's Meadow, near the site of the ancient Castle of Dalswinton, called probably after a chapel to the Virgin ; but there is some doubt as to the origin of the name. There was a " Lady- Rowis-Medow in Carrick, in the regality of Crossraguell Abbey." In Renfrewshire there is a Ladyburn estate near Paisley Abbey. Ladyburn is a stream in Kirkoswald parish, Ayrshire ; and in Wigtownshire we find a Ladyburn in the parishes of Kirkinner and Old Luce respectively, while in Cupar parish, Fife, is another Ladyburn. In Kirkcolm parish are Lady Hill, Lady Cave, and Lady Rue, — the last being from Gaelic rudha, a promontory. Near Corsewell House, also in Kirkcolm parish, is Lady Bay. Sir Herbert Maxwell remarks : " The farm situated on this bay bears the Erse equivalent in its name — viz., Portencalzie = Portan cailleach = Port of the Nuns."^ Should we not rather look for the origin of the name of Lady Bay in a dedication to the Virgin, who in medieeval times was pre-eminently "The Lady " ? Lady's Rock, a tide -swept islet between Mull and Lis- more, has no connection with the Virgin. It was so named from a lady, the wife of Lachlan MacLean of Duart and a daughter of the Earl of Argyll, who, in 1523, was there left by her husband to perish, but was rescued by a passing vessel.* There are several places in Scotland called after the Virgin under her own name of Mary, from St Mary's Holm in the north, in Holm parish, Orkney, to St Mary's Isle in the south, close to Kirkcudbright. Terregles parish has a Maryholm and a Maryfield, while another Maryfield is to be met with in New Abbey parish. Dalmary, in the north of Drymen parish, Stirlingshire, has practically the same meaning as Maryfield. At Chapel- larach, in its 1 Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 556, note. 2 Wilson's Reminiscences of Old Edinburgh, pp. 60, 244. 3 Gall. Top. * Gaz., s.v. " Duart." 206 THE VIRGIN. neighbourhood, once stood a chapel said to have been dedi- cated to the Virgin, and to have been dependent on the Priory of Inchmahome. The following places are mentioned in charters ranging in date from 1514 to 1609 : Marisfeild, otherwise Marisland, at Inverkeithing; Marisland at Auchter- muchty; Marieland at Forgandenny; Marisland at Inver- teil ; Mariland near Dumbarton ; Maristoun at Cupar-Fife, where there was also a Marie Crux ; Marydykes in Fyvie parish ; and Mariscrag near Lindores.^ There is a Mary's Cleugh {i.e., glen) in Dryfesdale parish, Dumfriesshire. Maryport is a haven in the south of Kirk- maiden parish, near which stood a chapel to the Virgin, said to have been quite ruinous when Symson wrote in 1684. Symson informs us that the print of the Virgin's knee was " fabulously reported to be seen on a stone where she prayed, somewhere about Maryport."^ St Mary's Isle, near Kirk- cudbright, is now a peninsula, though, as the name implies, it was once an island. Anciently it was named Trahil or Trayl. There, in 11 29, Fergus, Lord of Galloway, founded a priory called " Prioratus Sanctas Marias de Trayl," and made it a dependency of Holyrood Abbey. The priory was surrounded by high walls. The outer gate, known as the Great Cross, was half a mile distant from the priory itself. The inner gate, leading to the cells of the monks, went by the name of the Little Cross. The buildings were entirely removed towards the end of the seventeenth century to make room for a mansion-house and gardens.^ Heron, who visited St Mary's Isle about a hundred years later, says : " The grounds are elegantly laid out with abundance of trees, shrubbery, and winding walks, with ornamented borders." * Near Drimfin, in the north-east of Mull, is a sheet of water called St Mary's Lake. Better known is St Mary's Loch in the Selkirkshire uplands, whence flows the Yarrow, beloved of poets. The loch, too, has its poetry, for over it Wordsworth and Scott, not to mention other singers, have cast a spell that hallows its own natural loveliness. Yarrow I R. M. s. '•* Description of Galloway, p. 65. For Port Mary, &c., vide Appendix. •■' N. S. A., KirkcudbriKlit, p. 26. ■■ Journey, vol. ii. p. 200. THE VIRGIN, 207 parish was anciently known as St Mary's, or St Mary's of the Lowes {de Lacuhus). The Virgin's chapel stood at Deuchar, a little to the north-east of the present parish church, and was known as the Maiden Kirk. Regarding its site, Mr George Eyre-Todd remarks: "High on the lonely hillside, where a few bushes wave out of sight of the road, rises a green mound — all that is left of the Chapel of St Mary. Lonely as the spot is now, it is renowned in Border legend, has constant mention in the ancient ballads, and has been the scene of more than one historic incident. More tradition and poetry, indeed, probably gathers about this ancient dependency of Melrose Abbey than about any other kirk of its size in Scotland."^ Montrose, in Forfarshire, had a convent of Black Friars dedicated to the Virgin, built in 1230 by Alan Durward. Jervise remarks : " Although the site of Durward's founda- tion is not known with certainty, it may reasonably be conjectured that it stood on that portion of the common links of Montrose which is situated a little to the eastward of Victoria Bridge, and still bears the name of St Mary, patroness of the convent."^ In 1516 the convent was re- moved, by Patrick Panter of the Newmanswalls family, Abbot of Cambuskenneth, to the immediate vicinity of the town, and was in consequence known as "the new place." It probably stood in or near the present Blackfriars Street. Panter granted to it certain teinds, and the fishings of the net of the Virgin in the North Esk, called Marynett. Within a few years after their removal the Friars asked Parliament for leave to return to their old quarters, on the ground that their devotions were disturbed by the traffic entering and leaving the town. Across the South Esk from Montrose is the parish of Maryton, where are situated the lands of Over and Nether Maryton, which together formed the Abthen of St Mary's. On the border of the parish is a spring dedicated to the Virgin, from whom the parish itself seems to have derived its name.^ In Kincardineshire is the parish of Marykirk, so called from the Virgin. Its church was consecrated by Bishop David de Bernham on 12th 1 Byways of the Scottish Border, p. 26. '^ Memorials, vol. i. p. 95. 3 N. S. A., Forfar, p. 115. 208 THE VIRGIN. August 1242. In a charter, probably circa 1220, reference is made to the church of Maringtun, which, judging from the topographical particulars given in the context, appears to have been the church of Marykirk, not of Maryton.^ Abirluthenot was the old name of Marykirk parish. Going farther north, we come to Maryculter on the Dee. Culter is from Gaelic cul, the back, and tir, land. Jervise says : " One of the most important of the possessions of the Knights Templars in this district was the barony of Mary- culter, and the church of that parish was one of those of which the Knights held the vicarage. The old kirkyard of Maryculter, situated upon the right bank of the Dee, is a singularly romantic spot, containing, among other relics, the sculptured effigies of a knight and lady that are said to have been of the family of Menzies of Pitfodels. The Roman Catholic College of St Mary was estabhshed at Blairs in this parish in 1829, the late Mr John Menzies having, two years before that time, presented the estate and mansionhouse of Blairs to the Roman Catholic bishops of Scotland." ^ Loretto School at Musselburgh, in Inveresk parish, Mid- Lothian, keeps alive the memory of the chapel of Our Lady of Loretto, otherwise styled Alareit Chapel, once situated on the margin of the links, outside the eastern gate of the burgh. The chapel was burned in 1544 by the English under the Earl of Hertford ; but its final destruction took place in 1590, when its stones were removed to build the Tolbooth of Musselburgh.^ The town of Loretto in Italy, whence the name was borrowed, is about fifteen miles from Ancona, on the Adriatic, and contains the celebrated Santa Casa, the Cottage of the Virgin, said to have been carried miraculously through the air from Nazareth, and set down uninjured, in the year 1295, on its present site. Perth had also an AUareit Chapel. Regarding it Mr R. S. Fittis says : " The founder was Edward Gray, Rector of Lundy, ^ Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 132. ^ Memorials, vol. ii. p. 252. Vide also Mr John Edwards's " The Temple Barony of Maryculter " in the ' Transactions of Glasgow Archaeol. Society,' New Series, vol. iv.. Part II., pp. 194-206. ' N. S. A., Mid-Lothian, pp. 272-274. THE VIRGIN. 209 in Forfarshire ; and he carried his design into effect appar- ently about the year 1528. The site chosen was on the north side of South Street, a little below the Port, in or about the locality still distinguished as Loretto Court. Perhaps the chapel was built somewhat after the model of the famous original in Italy ; and tradition says that it had a tower surmounted by a crown." ^ The chapel had a garden on the west side and a burying-ground on the north. In addition to the chief altar, dedicated of course to the Virgin, there were altars to St Nicholas and St Catherine. The chapel perished at the Reformation ; but, as Mr Fittis points out in the above passage, it has left its impress on the topography of the burgh. What is known at Old Aberdeen as the Snow Kirk is an ancient dedication to the Virgin. The origin of the name was at one time accounted for in the district after the following curious fashion. It was said that at the Refor- mation, when the Roman Catholics were, ecclesiastically speaking, out of house and home, they asked, by way of favour, that the ground on which snow would fall at a particular time might be given to them as a place for burying their dead. The historical facts are these : The church, which stood on the south side of the old town, was built for the parishioners by Bishop Elphinstone in 1497, in consequence of a bull from Pope Alexander VI., and was dedicated to Maria ad Nives, or St Mary of the Snows.^ Wilson, in his ' Historical Account and Delineation of Aberdeen,' published in 1822, when referring to the dedica- tion of the Snow Kirk, observes : " After the Reformation the church, with the parsonage and vicarage, was granted by King James VI. to King's College. A cemetery sur- rounded the church, which, it appears, was the only burying-place in ancient times. The cemetery has been ^ Eccles. Annals of Perth, p. 294. 2 In 1689 a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow (St Maria zum Schnee) was built on the Rigi in Switzeriand for the use of the cowherds of the district. It contained a so-called wonder-working image of the Virgin. A favourite excursion from Zermatt is to the Schwarz See, where there is another chapel dedicated to St Mary of the Snow, to which pilgrimages are still made when rain is desired. 210 THE VIRGIN. ploughed up, but the site of the church is still used as a burying-place by Catholics (Roman) of ancient and wealthy families. The bodies of some of their bishops and many of their priests lie here ; and it is supposed that none but Catholics (Roman) have ever been buried in this place." What happened to the building in the time of Charles I. is thus described by Gavin Turreff: "The first vi^ork that he [Principal Guild] began to do was : he employed masons to cast down the walls of the Snow Kirk and transport the stones to big up the college-yard dykes, and to employ the hewn work to the decayed windows within the college, whereat many old town people murmured, the samen being sometime the parish kirk of Old Aberdeen, within the whilk their friends and forefathers were buried."^ The question remains, Why was a church at Old Aber- deen dedicated to St Mary of the Snows ? As we have seen, the commission for its erection came from Rome towards the end of the fifteenth century. The pope who gave the commission must have been acquainted with a certain picturesque tradition regarding the building of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore on the Esquiline Hill at Rome. This tradition is told by Mrs Jameson as follows: "A certain Roman patrician, whose name was John [Gio- vanni Patricio], being childless, prayed of the Virgin to direct him how best to bestow his worldly wealth. She ap- peared to him in a dream on the night of the 5th of August 352, and commanded him to build a church in her honour, on a spot where snow would be found the next morning. The same vision having appeared to his wife and the reign- ing pope, Liberius, they repaired in procession the next morning to the summit of Mount Esquiline, where, not- withstanding the heat of the weather, a large patch of ground was miraculously covered with snow, and on it Liberius traced out with his crozier the plan of the church."^ The popularity of the tradition did not seem to wane as years passed. In the century after the building of the Snow Kirk of Old Aberdeen, the legend was stereotyped ' Antiquarian Gleanings from Aberdeenshire Records, 2nd ed., p. 148. ^ Legends of the Madonna, Introd., p. Ixvi. THE VIRGIN. 211 by Murillo, who painted two pictures in illustration of it. These are thus described by Mrs Jameson : " It is curious that the two most beautiful pictures consecrated to the honour of the Madonna della Neve are Spanish, and not Roman, and were painted by Murillo about the time that Philip IV. of Spain sent rich offerings to the Church of S. M. Maggiore. The picture represents the patrician John and his wife asleep, and the vision of the Virgin (one of the loveliest ever painted by Murillo) breaking upon them in splendour through the darkness of the night ; while in the dim distance is seen the Esquiline (or what is meant for it) covered with snow. In the second picture John and his wife are kneeling before the pope, ' a grand old ecclesi- astic like one of Titian's pontiffs.' " Mrs Jameson adds : " These pictures, after being carried off by the French from the little church of S. M. la Blanca at Seville, are now in the Royal Gallery at Madrid." CHAPTER XVI. THE DIOCESE. Bishop in early Celtic Church — No diocesan jurisdiction — St Kentigern in Cumbria — Scottish Church monastic — Presbyter abbots — Bishop in monastery — Seat of Columban supremacy removed from lona to Dunkeld — St Columba's relics — Early bishops at Dunkeld, Abernethy, and St Andrews — Revfual of See of St Andrews — Sees of Moray, Dunkeld, Glasgow, Whithorn, Ross, and Aberdeen. There were bishops and bishops in the pre- Reformation period. Without doubt an episcopal order existed in the Celtic Church both in Scotland and in Ireland; but the bishop then was, in one respect at least, very different from his successor in later times. The bishop among the Celts had no territorial jurisdiction. His seat had not the sym- bolism that attached to the episcopal cathedra of later days when it was a species of throne within an ecclesiastical realm. This distinction has to be borne in mind when we speak of bishops in the early Celtic Church. Their functions are thus described by Dr Todd : " The bishops were always applied to to consecrate churches, to ordain to the ecclesi- astical degrees or Holy Orders, including the consecration of other bishops ; to give Confirmation and the more solemn benedictions ; and to administer the Holy Communion with peculiar rites of greater pomp and splendour." ^ When a Christian missionary left a marked impress on a particular district, writers of a later age were prone to call such district his diocese. This was so in the case of St Kentigern, who preached the Gospel among the inhabitants * Life of St Patrick, p. 5. THE DIOCESE. 213 of Cumbria in the sixth century, his headquarters being at Glasgow, where he had a monastic settlement. His biographer, Jocelin of Furness, writing some six centuries later, tells us that the king and clergy of the district en- throned him ; and " having called one bishop from Ireland after the manner of the Britons and Scots of that period, they caused him to be consecrated bishop." The territory where the saint laboured is styled by Jocelin " the diocese of that episcopate." 1 Cumbria being, as the name implies, Cymric, had more in common with Wales than with the Gaelic districts of our land ; but even in Wales in Kenti- gern's time, according to Haddan and Stubbs, bishops were not diocesan. Columba visited Kentigern at Glasgow, and gave him a pastoral staff which is said to have been pre- served in the church of Ripon, and to have been exhibited there in the end of the fourteenth century.^ As we shall see later, the early Scottish Church, like the parent Church in Ireland, was monastic in character. Bishop Dowden points out that there is reason to believe that the monastic establishments of Lismore and Kingarth were presided over by bishops.* Out of compliment, how- ever, to St Columba, who was a presbyter, the heads of Columban foundations were usually presbyters; but as Episcopal functions had to be performed, a bishop was often retained in a monastery, and, being one of the brethren, was under the jurisdiction of the abbot. Dr Skene remarks : "The episcopate was, in fact, in the monastic Church of Ireland, a personal and not an official dignity; and we find at a later period that inferior functionaries of the monastery, as the scribe and even the anchorite, appear to have united the functions of a bishop with their proper duties.* After the burning of the monastery in lona and the slaughter of its monks by the Scandinavians early in the ninth century, the seat of the Columban supremacy was ^ Metcalfe's Lives of the Saints, pp. 204, 205. Bishop Forbes remarks : " Ordination by one bishop has always been held to be valid, but irregular." — ' Lives of S. Ninian and S. Kentigern,' p. 335. 2 Councils, vol. i. p. 142 ; vol. ii.. Part. 1., p. 5. ' Celtic Church in Scotland, p. 260. * Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 44. 214 THE DIOCESE. removed for greater safety to Dunkeld by Constantine, King of Dalriada and of the Picts, who died in 820. About 850 Kenneth Macalpine added dignity to Dunkeld by bringing to it some of St Columba's relics, and, as Dr Skene remarks, thereby constituted it as an Annoid or mother-church over the Columbans in Scotland. Dr Skene adds : " Kenneth seems to have resolved to place the abbot of his new monastery of Dunkeld as bishop over the church in the territories of the southern Picts which had now come under his rule, with a view to the more ready reorganisation of Scottish monasteries within them, so that it should form one diocese, as it were, under one bishop."^ We can here trace the germ of the diocesan system which spread over our land after feudalism crossed the Border. Kenneth's son, Constantine, transferred the bishopric to Abernethy, which continued to exercise episcopal control till 908, when the bishopric was removed to St Andrews. Cellach was the first bishop of the latter see, and was styled Epscop Alban — i.e., Bishop of Alban.^ The last of the bishops so named was Fothad, who died in 1093. During the unrest following the death of Malcolm Canmore the See of St Andrews remained vacant ; but when his son, Alexander I., came to the throne in 1107, a new bishop was appointed in the person of Turgot, Prior of Durham. Re- garding the building of the cathedral, Messrs MacGibbon and Ross remark: "In 1158-59 Arnald, Abbot of Kelso, was consecrated Bishop of St Andrews. That prelate im- mediately set about the building of the cathedral; but he died in 1162, when the work was scarcely begun. The structure progressed under his successors; and probably the whole, including the west end, was finished in Httle more than a century after its commencement. The original west end having been blown down by a tempest of wind, was rebuilt by Bishop William Wiseheart (or Wishart) between 1272 and 1279. ^t is usually stated that the cathedral occupied 160 years in building, but it would appear to have been entirely erected from east to west on the ground it now occupies in about 115 years."* The 1 Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 307. = Ibid., p. 324. ' Ecclesiastical Architecture, vol. ii. p. 6. THE DIOCESE. 215 cathedral-chapter consisted of the prior and canons of the local Augustinian monastery. The influence of the see on topography can be traced in the name of Bishop's Hill, lying between the shires of Fife and Kinross, and near Scotlandwell, where a hospital for Red Friars was founded by Bishop William Malvoisin, who died in 1238.^ Bishop's Hill lies in the district comprised within the ancient deanery of Fothrif, one of the eight deaneries included in the See of St Andrews early in the thirteenth century. In the ' Exchequer Rolls of Scotland,' ^ under date 1535, reference is made to Bishopgait (Bishop- gate) as one of the boundaries of certain lands near Cupar. Bishopgate means the Road of the Bishop. In Abbey St Bathan's parish, towards the south of the diocese, in what was the Deanery of The Merse, was a walk of considerable breadth that went by the name of the Bishop's Loan.^ About the same time as Alexander I. revived St Andrews he created a new diocese in the north — viz., the See of Moray. Its chief seat seems to have been at different places till about the year 1222, when it was fixed at Elgin, having been removed thither from Spynie, where there is still a Bishop's Well near the site of the old church. The foundations of the cathedral, known as the "lanthorne" of the north, were laid about 1224 by Andrew, Bishop of Moray. Regarding the building Dr Joseph Robert- son remarks : " The grandest of all the northern minsters was unquestionably Elgin. It alone, among the Scottish cathedrals of the thirteenth century, had two western towers. They are now shorn of their just height, but still they may be seen from far, lifting their bulk above the pleasant plain of Murray, and suggesting what the pile must have been when the great central spire soared to twice the altitude of the loftiest pinnacle of ruin that now grieves the eye." * In the thirteenth century, as we learn from Shaw, the diocese of Moray comprised what are now the shires of Elgin and Nairn and a considerable part of those of Banff 1 Sibbald's History of Fife and Kinross, p. 282. ^ Vol. xvi. p. 594. ' N. S. A., Berwick, p. 109. * Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 50. 2i6 THE DIOCESE. and Inverness, along with some parishes in Aberdeenshire.^ Shaw remarks: "The rental of the bishopric of Moray shows that the Church had lands in almost all the parishes within the diocess, besides some parishes, as Birnie, Kenedar, Ogston, St Andrews, Laggan, that wholly belonged to it." ^ In 1226 the churches of Kingussie and Insch were constituted a prebend of Elgin Cathedral.^ In the latter parish is a farm still styled Balnespick — i.e., the Dwelling of the Bishop, from Gaelic baile, a dwelling, and easbuig (Ivish easbog, Old Irish espoc, Latin episcopus), a bishop. There is a Bishop's Croft in Knockando parish. The farm is situated near the manse of Insch. Bishopmill, a suburb of Elgin on the left bank of the Lossie, derived its name from a mill erected by Richard, Bishop of Moray, according to a charter granted by William the Lion in 1188. The chapter of the cathedral was formed by Bishop Bricius when the episcopal seat was at Spynie, and was added to by Bishop Andrew after its removal to Elgin. Shaw mentions a croft near Elgin Cathedral known as Dean's Crook, recalling the head of the chapter.* It is a semi- circular field, which seems at one time to have been bounded by the Lossie, but is now separated by that river from the other cathedral lands of Elgin. ^ A third see — viz., Dunkeld — was created, or rather revived by Alexander on his accession to the throne, Cormac being appointed its first bishop. Dr Skene observes : " Besides the two great lay abbacies of Dull and Glendochart, whose united territory comprised the entire western districts of Atholl, bounded by Drumalban on the west and the districts beyond this range, which afterwards formed the diocese of Argyll, we find the new bishopric possessing within the limits of other dioceses disconnected parishes which repre- sented old Columban foundations." ^ The cathedral of Dunkeld, whose picturesque ruins stand near the Tay, had its chancel built between 1318 and 1337, and its nave between 1406 and 1464. Traditions of St Columba were ^ Province of Moray, p. 273. '' Ibid., p. 286. "■ Macpherson's Church and Social Life in the Highlands, p. 120. ■* Province of Moray, p. 283. » N. S. A., Elgin, p. 95, note. " Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 371. THE DIOCESE. 217 kept alive in the cathedral. One of its large bells bore his name, and his twenty-four miracles were painted on the reredos of its high altar by Bishop Lauder in 1461,' while a bone of the saint was supposed to give efficacy to water drunk by the sick during a time of plague.. Among the place - names in the diocese we find the Bishopric, one of the divisions of Little Dunkeld parish, stretching some ten miles along the Tay, and formerly noted for its orchards. In Blair-Atholl parish is Bohespick. The first syllable is evidently Gaelic both, a dwelling, primarily a hut, the name thus signifying the Dwelling of the Bishop. A piece of land at Dunkeld connected with the office of legal adviser to the bishop was known as Chancellor's Croft.^ The special duty of the chancellor, as the Rev. Dr J. F. S. Gordon points out, was " to keep the seal of the Chapter, and with it seal all the acts and deeds of the Bishop and his Council."^ The bishops of Dunkeld had a residence at Nether Cramond on the Forth, and the place was in consequence known as Bishop's Cramond.* A few years after the above sees were organised by Alexander I., his brother. Earl David, Prince of Cumbria (for he was not King of Scotland till 1124), was busy with the ecclesiastical affairs of his earldom. As Dr Skene points out, " David's possessions in Cumbria consisted of the counties of Lanark, Ayr, Renfrew, Dumfries, and Peebles. He was overlord of Galloway, and his rule ex- tended also over Lothian and Teviotdale in the counties of Berwick, Roxburgh, and Selkirk.'"* Between 1116 and 1120 he caused an inquest to be made into the early possessions of the church of Glasgow within the limits of his earldom in order to organise its see, which included the greater part of the district where St Kentigern had laboured.® These early possessions were in all probability ' Mackenzie Walcott's Scoti-Monasticon, p. 209. ^ O. S. A., vol. XX. p. 428, note. ' Vade-Mecum to Glasgow Cathedral, p. 144. * Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 92. * Celt. Scot., vol. i. p. 456. ^ Vide an article on this inquest by Mr J. T. T. Brown in ' Scots-Lore,' pp. 36-46. 2l8 THE DIOCESE. connected with Kentigern's monastic foundation at Glasgow, which would be reckoned the mother-church of the whole district. The see, as now constituted, extended from the Clyde on the north to the Solway and the march with England on the south, and from the river Urr on the west to the western limits of Lothian on the east, including Teviotdale.^ David appointed John Achaius, who had been his tutor, the first bishop of his new diocese. Regarding the cathe- dral church built at Glasgow by Bishop John in 1136, Dr Andrew MacGeorge observes : " A great part of it was probably of wood, and not long afterwards it was destroyed by fire. Bishop Jocelin, who was consecrated in 1174, probably repaired this original structure. He certainly added to it. In the year 1197 the new cathedral was dedicated." ^ Portions of it still remain, having been incorporated in the building, forming the lower church of the cathedral, erected by Bishop William de Bonding- ton about the middle of the thirteenth century. This lower church contained the shrine of St Kentigern. At a considerably later date the structure of the cathedral was enriched by the addition of the crypt of a pro- posed south transept — the work of Archbishop Blackadder, who died in 1508. This crypt was known as Fergus's Aisle, with which, Mr P. MacGregor Chalmers reminds us, there is nothing to compare " in the richness of its moulded ribs or the beauty of its many carved bosses. These are crowded with arms, with beasts and birds, and fishes, and foliage in the richest profusion.'" The cathedral had two western towers, built, it is believed, in the fourteenth century, but taken down — the one in 1846 and the other in 1848. The south-western tower, though only about half the height of the north-western, was the more important of the two, for it served as the consistory - house where the bishops held their ecclesiastical courts, and where the records of the dio- cese were preserved. The books of the cathedral library appear also to have been kept within its walls, as in ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 375. ^ Old Glasgow, p. 99. " Scots Lore, p. 93. THE DIOCESE. 219 old records the tower is called the library-house of the cathedral.^ A little to the west of the cathedral once stood the Bishop's Castle, whose ruins were removed towards the end of the eighteenth century. Dr MacGeorge remarks : "There is a tradition that the bishops had, not very far from the castle, a rural manor in a locality which was then a part of the old Bishop's Forest, but is now almost in the heart of Glasgow, and which is traversed by the street in Anderston called Bishop Street ; but of this I have not been able to find any positive confirmation." Dr MacGeorge adds : " The name of the present street, and the name of the corn-mills on the west side of it — Bishop's Garden Mills — give countenance to this tradition." ^ In the south of the diocese is another Bishop's Forest, the name of a hill in Kirkpatrick-Irongray parish, rising to the height of 1285 feet above the sea, and having its lower slopes above Cairn Water clothed with trees. In 1227 the church of Erskine, in Renfrewshire, then belonging to Paisley Abbey, was transferred to the bishops of Glasgow, and some time later was made a prebend of the cathedral. In the parish is the village of Bishopton, so called from the estate of the same name, described by Crawfurd as a " very pleasant property." ^ In Cadder parish, Lanarkshire, were certain lands be- longing to the cathedral of Glasgow, which have left their impress on local topography. Thus we find Bishop's Mill, regarding which the writer of the parish article in the 'N. S. A.'* remarks: "Every heritor in the Bishop's land (comprehending ten townships, each of which contained eight ploughgates of land) is, and must be, seized in it, else his titles are not valid." In the same parish are Bishop's bridge (or Bishopbriggs) and Bishop's Moss, between Hun- ter's hill and Springfield. A lake still known as Bishop's Loch is on the confines of Cadder and Old Monkland ^ Archbishop Eyre's "Notes on the Old Western Towers of Glasgow Cathedral" in 'Glasgow Archaeological Society's Transactions,' New Series, vol. ii. pp. 253-270. " Old Glasgow, p. 113. ^ History of Renfrewshire, p. 388. * Lanark, pp. 406, 407. 220 THE DIOCESE. parishes. At Lochwood, on the south side of the lake, the bishops had a castle, where they occasionally resided. Mr Johnston is probably correct when he interprets Bishop- briggs as lands or rigs of the bishop, the b having crept in through confusion with Scotch brig, a bridge.^ Farther south we find traces of the influence of the see. St Cuth- bert's church in Dryfesdale, in Dumfriesshire, was granted to Bishop Jocelin in 1174, and continued to belong to the bishops and archbishops of Glasgow till the Reformation. A reminiscence of this ownership is to be found in the lands of Bishop's Cleugh, referred to in a valuation of 1806 as the "twenty- shilling Land of Bishopcleugh."^ The greater part of Ashkirk parish, in the neighbouring shire of Rox- burgh, was the property of the see of Glasgow, and its bishops had a residence there, situated on what is now glebe-land. Fragments of the walls were visible till about the end of the eighteenth century, and the field where they stood was long known as Palace Walls.^ After David became King of Scotland he devoted his attention to the creation of other sees. Between 1124 and 1 130 he revived the ancient bishopric of Whithorn, with its memories of St Ninian and his Candida Casa. An Anglic bishopric* had been founded there in the eighth century, but lasted only some seventy years. As reor- ganised, the see comprised Wigtownshire and the Stewartry as far east as the river Urr. About the same time a priory for Praemonstratensian monks was founded at Whithorn by Fergus, Lord of Galloway. The church then erected — the successor of Candida Casa — seems to have served both as the church of the priory and as the cathedral church of the diocese ; the prior and canons forming the cathedral chapter, as in the case of St Andrews already referred to. ' Scottish Place-Names, s.v. " Bishopbrig-gs." ^ Maidment's Topographical Collections. ' N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 272. ■* " Another Anglic bishopric had been established north of the Tweed in the seventh century — viz., at Abercorn in West Lothian, The district there was conquered about A.D. 655 by the Angles under Oswy, and in 681 Trum- wini was made bishop at Abercorn, but had to quit his see four years later, when the Angles were expelled from the province." — Hadden and Stubbs, 'Councils,' vol. iii. p. 165. THE DIOCESE. 221 The ruins of the church have still a fine Romanesque door- way to suggest what the building once was. There is some doubt as to the actual restorer of the bishopric. That David reorganised the see is the view taken by Chalmers ; but Cosmo Innes is inclined to attribute its revival to Fergus, Lord of Galloway, just named. He considers, as a confirmation of his view, the fact that the Lords of Galloway claimed the right to nominate the bishops of Whithorn.^ The see was under the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of York, and was therefore reckoned English, though Galloway, in civil matters, belonged to Scotland. It remained subject to York till 1472, when St Andrews was made an archbishopric, and the bishops of Galloway were declared to be suffragans of the Scottish metropolitan see. Nineteen years later their allegiance was transferred to Glasgow, when that see attained to the same dignity as St Andrews.^ The bishops have left traces of themselves in the topo- graphy of the see. Gillespie, a farm in Old Luce parish, Wigtownshire, Sir Herbert Maxwell thinks is the Bishop's Cell or Chapel, the first syllable being Gaelic ceall, a church ; Quintinespie, in Balmaghie parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, was written in 1690 Cultingspie, and this latter Sir Herbert interprets as Bishop's Woods. He gives an alternative explanation of Ernespie in Crossmichael parish. In his 'Studies in Galloway Topography' he equates it with Ard- nan-espoic — i.e., bishop's hill, but in his ' Scottish Land- Names' with earrann espuig — i.e., bishop's land. Bishopburn, flowing between the parishes of Penninghame and Wigtown, derived its name from a palace belonging to the bishops situated at Clary, a name which itself points to clerical associations. The Bishopric of Ross was founded by David between 1 124 and 1 128, and was known as the Bishopric of Rose- markie till the middle of the following century. Rosemarkie had ecclesiastical associations from early times, first through St Moluag of Lismore and then through St Boniface, who founded a church there and dedicated it to St Peter, under 1 Sketches of Early Scotch History, p. 206. ■^ Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 416. 222 THE DIOCESE. whose invocation, along with that of St Boniface himself, the cathedral was placed at a later date. The burgh seal, once the seal of the chapter, bears the names of St Peter and St Boniface ; and a bell, of date 1460, has those of St Mary and St Boniface ; while an annual market is known as "St Boniface Fair."i The cathedral, believed to have been built early in the fourteenth century, stands in Fortrose, about a mile to the west of the parish church of Rosemarkie. Neale, who visited the place in 1848, remarks : " Fortrose is a neat little town, standing round a green, much more like England than Scotland. On one side of this green are the remains of the once glorious cathedral, the see of the bishops of Ross. It was not destroyed in the Knoxian Reformation, but by Oliver Cromwell, who applied the stones to the construction of a fort at Inverness. The fort has perished; the cathedral, in the last stage of decay, still exists. It formerly consisted of choir and nave, with aisles to each, eastern lady chapel, western tower, and chapter-house at the north-east end; what remains consists merely of the south aisle to chancel and nave, and the detached chapter- house. The style is the purest and most elaborate Middle- Pointed ; the material, red sandstone, gave depth and free- dom to the chisel ; and the whole church, though probably not 120 feet long from east to west, must have been an architectural gem of the very first description."^ Connected with the cathedral was some ground known as the " Bischopis Shed" — i.e., portion of land. Balnespie, signifying the Bishop's Dwelling, at one time occurred in connection with the topography of Fortrose, and probably referred to the Bishop's residence, whose foundations, en- closing a space of about an acre, including the court, were dug up in 1835 in a field styled the Precincts.' In a charter of 1584 reference is made to " the treasurer's croft in the canonry (chanonry), lying between the croft and garden of the chancellor of Ross on the west and the croft of the chanter on the east, and between the treasurer's principal ' N. s. A., Ross, p. 352. ' Ecclesiological Notes on the Isle of Man, Ross, &c., p. S3- ' N. S. A., Ross, p. 351. THE DIOCESE. 223 dwelling on the south and the hill called Craiglaw on the north." ^ The towns of Chanonry and Rosemarkie now form the royal burgh of Fortrose. They were united in 1455, and were then erected into a free burgh in favour of the Bishop of Ross. Chanonry Point is a tongue of land stretching into the Moray Firth, opposite Fort George. The name Chanonry here, as in the case of Old Aberdeen, mentioned below, points to the precincts of the cathedral, where the canons had their residence. Dr Skene remarks : " The next bishopric established appears to have been that of Aberdeen, embracing the extensive districts between the Dee and the Spey, and including the earldom of Mar and Buchan."^ Nectan, Bishop of Aberdeen, witnesses the memorandum of a charter by the Mormaer of Buchan, refounding the church of Deer not long after David came to the throne in 1124; and this, Dr Skene indicates, is the first reference to the See of Aberdeen. Among its earliest endowments were certain ancient Columban possessions, including the monastery of Mortlach, with its five churches.^ The story regarding St Machar having built a church where he found a bend in the Don like a bishop's crook is referred to in another chapter. The Cathedral of St Mary and St Machar was built between 1272 and 1377, with certain later additions, includ- ing the completion of the great central tower by Bishop Elphinstone in 1489. After describing the vicissitudes of the building, the Rev. Mackenzie Walcott remarks: "It retains a nave of five bays, 126 feet by 67 feet 6 inches, with pointed arches and round pillars, some having flowered capitals well worked; traces of a choir that was aisleless, and a fragment of the south wing of the transept. There is a south porch with a parvise. The richly-carved pulpit remains." * The precincts of the cathedral, still known as the Chanonry, formed a sanctuary in mediaeval times, and had a girth -cross, which stood in the bishop's dove-cot* 1 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 576. ^ Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 378. ' Sketches of Early Scotch History, p. 87. * Scoti-Monasticon, p. 99. ' The bishop's dove-cot was removed in 1642, and a song--school built on its site. 224 THE DIOCESE. green. Principal Sir W. D. Geddes points out: "The name Chanonry is interesting as showing traces of the French influence, exerted, as is well known, so powerfully upon our vernacular. The French chanoine rather than the English canon has been at work in shaping this local name." ^ The bishop's palace stood on the east of the cathedral. It was burned down by some English sailors in 1233, but was rebuilt in the following century. A piece of ground near the cathedral still goes by the name of the Bishop's Garden. The Bishop's Croft also lay in the old town. Among the emoluments of the see were salmon-fisheries in the Dee and the Don. Regarding the Nether Don fishing, beginning nearly opposite the house of Seaton and extending to the sea, the writer of the parish article in the ' O. S. A.' ^ mentions that it is divided into two properties, one being called the King's Cavel — i.e., share or portion — and the other the Bishop's Cavel, — each cavel including six shares called half-nets. A sheet of water, known both as the Bishop's Loch and the Dean's Loch, once lay " on the west territories of Old Aberdeen," as described in a charter of James VL in 1601. Orem says regarding it: "This loch at first is thought to have been a moss, and being cast for peats turned into a loch of water." About the middle of the seventeenth century it became the property of the burgh of Old Aberdeen, and in 1662 James Gordon of Seaton had a nineteen years' tack of the ground from the bailies and council. The fate of the loch is thus de- scribed by Orem : " He [James Gordon] ditched it round about, and planted it with stanks, with a ditch through the middle of it, and so drained it. During the space of his tack he had plentiful crops of corn upon it, and when his tacks were run out, the town took it into their own hands and rouped it annually. Then the ditch which was round it was filled up, and made corn-ground."^ There is still a Bishop's Loch near Parkhill, in New Machar parish, a small sheet of water anciently known as ' The Heraldic Ceiling of St Machar's Cathedral, Old Aberdeen, p. S, note. " Vol. xix. p. 218. ' A Description of the Chanonry in Old Aberdeen, pp. 10-14, THE DIOCESE. 225 Loch Goul. It received its present name from the circum- stance that on an islet in the loch once stood a residence of the bishops of Aberdeen, in which one of them — Bishop Hugh de Bernham — died in 1282.^ The foundations of the building are still visible. The bishops had a summer residence at Fetternear, on the lands of Balquhain, in Chapel of Garioch parish, where a house was built in the fourteenth century by Bishop Alexander Kininmonth ; but the bishops do not seem to have left any trace of themselves in local topography. On the farm of Cruichie, in Drum- blade parish, there is a spring locally known as the Bishop's Well.^ The church of Clatt was a prebend of the cathedral, and in the parish we find the estate of Knockespock — i.e., Hill of the Bishop, the first syllable being Gaelic cnoc, a hill. . ' Temple's Thanagfe of Fermartyn, p. 317. ^ Macdonald's Place-Naraes in Strathbogie, p. 65. CHAPTER XVII. THE T>10CESE— continued. Sees of Caithness, Brechin, Dunblane, jlrgyll, the Isles, and Orkney. The see of Caithness, comprehending the shires of Caithness and Sutherland, was created by David I., probably about 1 140. For about eighty years after that date the bishops had their seat either at Halkirk or Scrabster. In 1223 Gilbert, Archdeacon of Moray, was appointed bishop, and he selected Dornoch for his cathedral church. Mr Hugh F. Campbell remarks : " The oldest sacred edifice at Dor- noch was identified with the name of S. Bar. Bishop Gilbert dedicated the new cathedral to S. Bar, and in his time it is referred to as S. Bar's Cathedral. By an Act of the Scots ParHament in 1592, the date of 'Barrisfair' in Dornoch was changed from 25th September to loth October, ' because the corn standing stoukit was destroyed by the goods repairing to the mercate.' A further change in the date (from loth to 22nd October) was made by an Act of the year 1641, and the fair was thenceforth to be called ' S. Gilbert's Fair.' " ^ The bishop was locally styled Gil- bard Naomh — i.e., Saint Gilbert — having been canonised after his death in 1245. His relics were held in reverence till the eve of the Reformation. Apparently soon after Bishop Gilbert's appointment to the see he constituted a cathedral chapter. " He therefore ordained that in that church there should be ten canons constantly ministering to the bishop by themselves or their vicars ; that the bishop ' The Cathedral of Caithness at Dornoch, p. i. THE DIOCESE. 22/ should preside as head, five of the others holding the dig- nities of dean, precentor, chancellor, treasurer, and arch- deacon, each of whom, as well as the bishop and the abbot of Scon, who had been appointed a canon in that church, should find a priest as vicar to minister there daily in his own absence ; and that the other three canons should find deacons continually to assist and serve the said priests within the church." i The bishops had three castles — viz., at Scrabster, Skibo, and Dornoch, the last bequeathing to its site the name of Castle Close. A spring at Skibo is known as Bishop's Well, and at Golspie is another spring bearing the same name. The dean's house stood at the west end of Dornoch, and was a ruin in the beginning of last century, when it was pulled down.2 The land assigned to the dean in Bishop Gilbert's charter was at a later date known as Dean's Field or Auchindean. The precentor or chanter had a house in the east of the town, and near it was a farm called Ach-a- chantoir. Mr Campbell tells us that the modern farm of Achinchanter "includes not only the 'chanter's field,' but also the ancient Auchintreasurich or 'treasurer's field.' "^ Towards the end of David's reign other two bishoprics were created — viz., Brechin and Dunblane.* Dr Skene thinks that these were probably formed " from the remains of the old Pictish bishopric of Abernethy in so far as the churches which had been subjected to it had not been absorbed by the growing bishopric of St Andrews." Dr Skene continues : " We may infer this from the facts that though Abernethy was within the limits of the diocese of St Andrews, and surrounded on all sides by her churches, it belonged ecclesiastically to the diocese of Dunblane ; that Abernethy was dedicated to St Bridget, and that we find a Panbride in the diocese of Brechin and a Kilbryde in that of Dunblane, indicating that the veneration of the patroness ^ Document in Dunrobin Castle, cited in ' O. P. S.,' vol. ii. p. 601. ' Sage's Memorabilia Domestica, p. 170. ^ The Cathedral of Caithness at Dornoch, p. 7. ^ The editor of ' Liber Insule Missarum ' (Pref., p. v) inclines to the view that the see of Dunblane was created by Gilbert, Earl of Stratheam, who succeeded to his earldom in 1171, and died in 1223. 228 THE DIOCESE. of Abernethy had extended to other churches included in these dioceses." ^ A church dedicated to the Holy Trinity had been founded at Brechin by King Kenneth, son of Malcolm, who reigned from 971 to 995.^ This church was of a monastic character, and there is reason to beheve that, as in the case of Dunkeld, mentioned in the previous chapter, its abbot became the first bishop of the new see. The cathedral, picturesquely situated on a height above the South Esk, is of various dates from the twelfth to the fifteenth century. It was considerably altered in the be- ginning of last century ; but quite recently a restoration was carried out more in harmony with architectural traditions. The monastic settlement of Brechin was a Culdee founda- tion ; and the brethren, along with their prior, formed the original chapter of the diocese.* Messrs Haddan and Stubbs fix the date of the creation of the see of Brechin circa 1128 or 1130, and remark: "A charter of William I., A.D. 1165- 71, confirms a gift of King David ' Episcopis et Keledeis Ecclesie de Brechin,' proving thereby both the date of the see in David's reign and the fact that the Keledei there were not expelled, but continued to form the episcopal chapter, at any rate for a time." * By the year 1248 the Culdees had disappeared from Brechin, and the affairs of the diocese were administered by a dean and chapter of the usual mediaeval type.^ About two miles from Arbroath was a small sheet of water long ago drained ; but its site, when the ' New Statistical Account of Scotland' was written, was still known as Bishop's Loch. There was a Bishop's Croft at Eastertoun of Barras in Dunnottar parish. It is not, however, ab- solutely certain that Bishop's Loch and Bishop's Croft were so called from their connection with Brechin, as they may ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 397. ^ For an account of the Round Towers of Brechin and Abernethy, vide Dr Joseph Anderson's 'Scotland in Early Christian Times,' First Series, PP- 37-45 and 52-55. ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 401. Dr Skene observes : " Brechin at this time shows us the abbacy in the possession of a lay abbot and a community of Keledei under a prior." * Eccles. Councils, vol. ii.. Part I., p. 216. ° Liber S. Thome de Aberbrothoc, vol. i., Pref., p. xxvii. THE DIOCESE. 229 possibly point to the see of St Andrews, which at one time included Angus and the Mearns. Jervise tells us that at some distance to the east of the church of New Dosk, in Edzell parish, was a sheet of water styled the Cardinal's Pool.i The " Chanter's Brig " in Stracathro parish is thus referred to by Dr W. G. Don : " The bridge over the Cruick, near the manse, bore the Saxon name 'Chanter's Brig,' being the spot where the singers from Brechin Cathedral passed to the collegiate church of Stracathro."^ The cir- cumstance mentioned is interesting ; but the bridge is more likely to have derived its name from having had some con- nection with the chanter or precentor of the cathedral. The earliest church at Dunblane appears to have been an offshoot from that of Kingarth in Bute, for its founder was St Blane, who still lives in the name of the town. During the reign of Kenneth Macalpine the church was burned by the Britons of Strathclyde, but the ecclesiastical associa- tions of the place evidently conduced to its selection as the seat of the new bishopric. The foundation of the present cathedral is ascribed to Bishop Clement (1233-58), a Do- minican who is said to have received the tonsure from St Dominick himself. He is also credited with the organisa- tion of the cathedral chapter. Writing in 1693, Slezer remarks : " Dumblane is a pleasant little Town on the Bank of the River Allan, where the Ruines of the Bishops and Regular Canons Houses are to be seen. Here was a Church of excellent Workmanship, a part of which remains yet intire. In the Ruines whereof is an ancient Picture representing the Countess of Stratherne, with her Children kneeling, asking a Blessing from St Blanus cloathed in his Pontifical Habit. Not long ago Robert Lighton was Bishop of this Place, a Man of an Exemplary Life and Conversation. At his Death he left all his Books, both Manuscripts and others, to the Use of the Diocess of Dumblane, and morti- fied a Summ of Money for erecting a Library." ^ The -once pleasantly-shaded pathway along which Leigh- ton used to pace, with the cathedral and the bishop's palace ' Land of the Lindsays, p. 24. ^ Archffiologfical Notes on Early Scotland, p. 92. ^ Theatrum Scotiae, p. 38. 230 THE DIOCESE. on the one hand and the Allan on the other, still recalls his memory by its name of the Bishop's Walk. Bishop Leighton was at Dunblane after the re-establishment of Episcopacy under Charles II., and occupied the see for ten years before his removal to the archbishopric of Glasgow. Deanston — i.e., the Dwelling of the Dean — is still to be met with in the neighbouring parish of Kilmadock. The writer of the parish article on Dunblane in the ' O. S. A.'^ says that "the minister's stipend was originally the dean's living," which, in addition to the teinds, consisted of certain feu-duties, including those paid from Deanskier in Muthill parish, and from Dean's Lundie and Deanstown in Kilmadock parish, the last being Deanston just mentioned. David I. died in 1153, and some fifty years later the see of Argyll was created, comprising part of that of Dunkeld. At the request of John, Bishop of Dunkeld, his chaplain, Harald, was appointed first bishop of the new see by Pope Innocent III. Skene is of opinion that the seat of the new bishopric was first fixed in the district of Muckairn, on the south side of Loch Etive : and it is interesting to note that Muckairn parish was formerly known alternatively as Killespickerrill — i.e., the Church of Bishop Harald. The episcopal seat was afterwards removed to Lismore, an island specially associated with the labours of St Moluag in the sixth century. Dr Joseph Robertson remarks : " The cathedral of St Moluac at Lismore is perhaps the humblest in Britain. The High Church of Argyll is less than sixty feet in length by thirty in breadth ; it has no aisles, and seems to have had neither transepts nor nave."^ On the shore of Loch Fyne, about half-way between Ardrishaig and Tarbert, is a block of stone, locally styled Clach-an- Easbuig — i.e., the Stone of the Bishop — but there is no tradition as to the bishop indicated by the name.* In Dunoon parish is a hill, 1651 feet above the sea, known as Bishop's Seat. Kilchrenan parish on Loch Awe, as in- dicated in chap, v., is believed to signify the Church of the Dean. ' Vol. vii. pp. 327, 328. - Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 78. ■' White's Archfeolo^ical Sketches in Scotland, Knapdale, p. 84. THE DIOCESE. 23 1 While the Norsemen ruled the Hebrides, the see of the Isles, styled in a twelfth-century document " Episcopatus Sudreiensis alias Manensis," was created,— a name still recognisable in the bishopric of Sodor and Man. In 1154 the Bishop of the Isles was made a suffragan of the Arch- bishop of Trondhjem. The see (except for forty years — from 1170 to 1210) remained in subjection to that Nor- wegian archdiocese till about the middle of the fourteenth century, though in 1266, during the reign of Alexander III., the Western Isles had become, in civil matters, part of the Scottish realm. Between 1492 and 1498, John, Abbot of the Benedictine monastery of lona, which succeeded the Columban foundation, was appointed Bishop of the Isles ; and in 1506 the church of the abbey became the cathedral church of the diocese. In 1561 Bernera, and certain other islands lying to the south of Barray, were held by the bishop, and were consequently styled the Bishop's Isles. They bore the same name when Martin visited the Hebrides towards the end of the seventeenth century; and till even a later date the name of Bishop Island seems to have clung to Bernera.^ In lona is a half-drained lake called Lochan- Mor, whence flows the stream anciently employed to turn the mill of the Columban monastery. On one side of the lake is an embankment styled the Bishop's Walk. In conclusion we may glance at the see of Orkney, which comprehended the island groups of Orkney and Shetland, and was created, according to Mr Gilbert Goudie, probably about 1102.2 These islands then, and for more than three hundred and sixty years after, belonged to Norway, both civilly and ecclesiastically, and were transferred to the Scottish Crown only in 1468, when they were given to James III. as a security for the dowry of his wife, Margaret of Norway. About the same time they passed from the see of Trondhjem to that of St Andrews. The Celtic Church had planted settlements in these northern islands, but Christianity was practically obliterated there by the forays of the Norsemen, beginning towards the end of the eighth century and culminating, in 875, in the conquests of Harold ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 366. ^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. xix. p. 214. 232 THE DIOCESE. Haarfager, King of Norway. The Christian faith was re- introduced early in the eleventh century by St Olaf the Holy, King of Norway. Dr Joseph Anderson remarks: " When the Norsemen became Christians, Earl Thorfinn selected Birsay as the site of the first church erected by the Northmen in Orkney. Earl Thorfinn's church was simply known as Christ's Kirk in Birsay. It was erected before 1064, the date of Thorfinn's death ; and it became the church of William the Old, the first bishop of the Norse Church in the Orkneys." ^ The church at Birsay was selected as the resting-place of the body of Earl Magnus, devotion to whose memory strongly influenced the later fortunes of the bishopric. The earl, known later as St Magnus, was treacherously slain by his cousin. Earl Hakon, in 1115, on the island of Egilshay. According to an Orcadian tradition, the spot where he fell, which was mossy and stony, was afterwards miraculously turned into " a green field fair and smooth." Commenting on this, the writer of the Life of St Magnus says : " God showed by this token that Earl Magnus was slain for righteousness' sake, and gained the fairness and greenness of Paradise in the land of the living." ^ The cultus of the martyred earl rapidly spread throughout the Scandinavian world. As Dr Joseph Robertson remarks, " Pilgrimages were made to his shrine at Birsa, vows paid in his honour, prayers offered for his intercession from all parts of the northern archipelago, from Scotland, from Sweden, from Denmark, from Norway." ' One result of all this was that Earl Ronald, son of Earl Magnus's sister, when deprived of his possessions in the Orkneys, vowed that if he recovered them he would build a splendid church and dedicate it to the memory of his murdered uncle. Accordingly, after success came to him, he began in 1137 to build what is now the cathedral of St Magnus at Kirk- wall.* Thither the relics of its patron saint were in due ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, First Series, p. 171. '^ Metcalfe's Lives of the Scottish Saints, p. 351, ' Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 39. ■* For an account of the architectural features of the building', vide Neale's ' Ecclesiological Notes,' pp. 93-107. THE DIOCESE. 233 time brought with much ceremony, Kirkwall thereafter superseding Birsay as the seat of the bishopric. Near the cathedral are the remains of the bishop's palace, in form a parallelogram, 112 feet by 27 feet. The building has still some Romanesque features, but has been so much altered that but little of the original work remains. King Hakon sought refuge in the palace after his defeat at the battle of Largs in 1263, and subsequently died within its walls. Opposite the market-cross in Broad Street is an old mansion. Over the archway leading into its courtyard is a sculptured stone bearing the date 1574. The house was originally the residence of some of the cathedral dignitaries, including the dean, treasurer, sub-chanter, and chancellor.^ It is curious to find in Dumbartonshire a reminiscence of an occupant of the see of Orkney. One of its bishops, thought by Mr Joseph Irving to have been Robert of Caith- ness, whose brother Matthew, Earl of Lennox, was head of the collegiate church of Dumbarton, constructed a dyke beside the Leven to keep its waters within their channel. This dyke was in consequence known as the Bishop's Cast, and, according to Mr Irving, was so named in a charter granted to the burgh in 1609 by James VI. ^ ^ Guide to the Scottish Archasolog'ical Tour of the Royal Society of Anti- quaries of Ireland, June 1899, p. no. ^ History of Dumbartonshire, p. 170, note. CHAPTER XVIII. THE MONASTERY. Origin of monasticism — lis spread to the West — The Twehe apostles of Ireland — lona — Early Celtic monastery — P ort-na- Muintir — Port-na- Marhh — Torr Abh — Dun Ni Manich — Eilean na m' Ban — Nuns' Cave — Nuns' Hill — Nuntoivn — Baillvanich — lollen - na - Moinoch — St Columba's foundations — Mugstot, (3'c. — Cladh-Mhanaich — Monks' Field — BalUmoney — Ballinaby — Unganab — Carmunnoch — Inch-ta- Van- noch — Inch-Cailleach — Monastic influence in south-'west — Knockmanister, i^fc.^Abthen — Appin — Abden — Abdie — Medieval abbots — FeitdaRsm — Monastic orders of Rome — English models. Influence on topography of medieval monasteries — Paisley Abbey — Crossraguel Abbey — Lindores Abbey — Selkirk Abbey — Kelso Abbey — Jedburgh Abbey — Franciscan Convent, Jedburgh — Canonbie Priory — Greyfriars' Monastery, Roxburgh and Dumfries — S'weetheart Abbey — Dundrennan Abbey — Tongueland Abbey — Kirkchrist Nunnery. Egypt was the birthplace of monasticism. Anthony the Hermit, who died in 356 at the age, it is said, of 106, was the first to popularise such a mode of life. For many years (as we saw in chap, iii.) he himself led a solitary life in the desert, and became so famous for his austerities that disciples flocked to him to seek advice. As Montalembert says, he " became the father and head of all the anchorites of the Thebaid, whom he thus transformed into cenobites." Anthony's instructions were simply oral ; but Raceme, who lived from 292 to 348, supplied the recently made monks with a written rule for their guidance. He founded, at Tabenne on the Nile, in the higher Thebaid, the first regu- larly organised monastic settlement, or rather a collection of eight such settlements, containing several thousand monks. Ammon established on the mount of Nitria, on the borders of Libya, a species of religious republic consisting of 5000 THE MONASTERY. 235 monks, "where they might live in labour and liberty." Such is Montalembert's account of the origin of monasticism in the East.i St Athanasius of Alexandria, a friend of Anthony, intro- duced the new ideal to the West, particularly to Italy and Gaul. In both countries it was eagerly adopted. In Gaul, St Martin became its chief exponent. He founded the monastery of Ligug6, in 361, at the gates of Poitiers ; and after his appointment to the bishopric of Tours, in 372, he founded another near his episcopal seat known as " Majus Monasterium," and later as " Marmoutier." Dr Skene has pointed out that monasticism reached Ireland from Gaul by two channels. The first was the intercourse between St Martin and St Ninian, who visited the former in Tours before building his Candida Casa at Whithorn, where the monastery of Rosnat — known as Magnum Monasterium — was founded. This monastery became a school of secular and religious teaching to various saints from the north of Ireland, who carried back with them the principles of a monastic life The second channel was the spread of monasticism from Tours through Bretagne into Wales, whence it passed into the central and southern districts of Ireland. This was accomplished through the instrumentality of St Finan or Finnian, an Irish Pict who spent thirty years in Wales in St David's monastery at Kilmuine and elsewhere ; and, after returning to Ireland, founded a monastic settlement at Clonard in Meath, which is said to have contained 3000 monks. As a result, there was, as Dr Skene points out, " a great revival and spread of Christianity through a new and living organisation based upon the monastic institution." This work was carried out by twelve of St Finan's chief disciples who were known as the Twelve Apostles of Ireland, and included such men as Kieran, Brendan, Kenneth, and — greatest of all — Columba. The monastic Church was speedily introduced into Scotland, where it was planted in lona, which long continued the principal centre of religious activity in our land. ^ Monks of the West, pp. 303-312. 236 THE MONASTERY. The early Celtic monastery was a collection of humble structures comprising the cells of the monks, the abbot's house, the church, the refectory, the kitchen, the kiln, the hospitium for the reception of strangers, the barn, and, when there was a stream suitable for the purpose, a mill for grind- ing the corn of the monastery. The whole settlement was surrounded by a vallum, consisting of earth or mixed earth and stones, termed a rath or lios; or of earth faced with stones ; or a rampart formed entirely of stones known as a caiseal or cashel. All the dwellers in a monastery were styled its muintir or familia. This term was applied in a narrower sense to the inmates of a particular monastery, and, in a wider sense, to all the monks, wherever situated, who were under the jurisdiction of its abbot, — for daughter- monasteries were ruled by the head of the parent-monastery. The term muintir is represented in the topography of lona, where we find Port-na-Muintir, regarding which Dr Skene remarks : " The small creek now called Port-na- Muintir, or the Harbour of the Community, is, from its situation opposite a similar harbour on the coast of Mull, probably the partus insulce or landing-place of the island, mentioned by Adamnan." ^ Another creek on the same side of the island received the name of Port-na-Marbh — i.e., the Port of the Dead, because bodies meant for inter- ment were landed there. They were borne to St Oran's burying-ground along a paved path known as Straid-na- Marbh — i.e., the Road of the Dead.^ A rocky eminence on the west of the cathedral is called Torr Abb — i.e., the Abbot's Hill. Bishop Reeves thinks that it is the site of a structure alluded to by Martin, who, after describing St Martin's Cross, says : " At a little further distance is Dun Ni Manich — i.e.. Monk's Fort — built of Stone and Lime, in form of a Bastion, pretty high. From this Eminence the Monks had a view of all the Families in the Isle, and at the same time enjoy'd the free Air."* Bishop Reeves men- tions that the artificial part of the structure no longer exists.* Other names on the map of lona connected with the monastic life of the island are Port a Mhuilinn and ' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. pp. 45-126. ^ O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 297. " Western Isles, p. 259. ■■ Adamnan, Introd., p. cxlii. THE MONASTEKY. 237 Sruth a Mhuilinn, signifying respectively the Haven and the Stream of the Mill; Lochan-a-Mhanaich, the Monk's Lakelet ; Blar nam Manach, Maol nam Manach, and Tra ban nam Manach, the Field, the Hill-brow, and the White Strand of the Monks respectively.^ In the Sound of Mull is an island called Eilean na m' Ban — i.e.. Island of Women — viz., nuns. Till recent times traces of a building known as the Nunnery were visible on the island.^ At Carsaig, on the south coast of Mull, is the Nuns' Cave, with several rudely incised crosses on its walls; but there is no tradition as to when or under what circumstances the cave received its name. On the south side of the islet of Inch-ma-home, in the Lake of Menteith, is a romantic height called Nuns' Hill. The Augustinian priory on the islet, founded in 1238, is recalled, according to Mr Johnston, by Arnprior in Kippen parish, denoting the Height of the Prior.* In Benbecula is the farm of Nuntown, where a nunnery once stood; but according to the writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.'* it was taken down, and the stones were used to supply building materials for Clan- ranald's mansion and offices. When Muir visited the place about the middle of last century, he found in an enclosed burying-ground "the almost perfect shell of a chapel," with a broken cross inside.^ Two miles north of Nuntown is Baillvanich — i.e., Monks'-town — where, on an elevation in some swampy ground, once the bed of a lake, "are remains said to be those of a monastery, but probably the remains of a chapel belonging to the monks of lona."^ Ten miles to the south-west of North Uist is Helsker or Husker, formerly known as lollen-na-Moinoch — i.e., Island of the Monks — where there is believed to have been a chapel. St Columba was fitly described as " monasteriorum pater et fundator," because of the many monasteries founded either by himself or his disciples, the number being given by one author at 300, — "an amount which," as Bishop Reeves remarks, "even after the most liberal allowances 1 Adamnan, pp. 329-333. ^ Ibid., pp. 144, 329-333. 3 Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Arnprior." * Inverness, p. 188. ' Eccles. Notes, p. 49. 5 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 370. 238 THE MONASTERY. for poetry, round numbers, and panegyric, will leave a very considerable residuum." Warren mentions that of the monasteries thus founded in Scotland among the Picts and Scots, the names of fifty-three in addition to that of lona have been preserved.^ It is sometimes difficult to dis- tinguish the traces of Columban foundations to be met with in topography from those belonging to a later period, when the Celtic Church was superseded by the Roman. On what was once an island in the now drained Loch Columkille, in Kilmuir parish, Skye, are the foundations of a monastery dedicated to St Columba ; and in its neighbourhood is Mugstot, which, like Mangarista in Lewis, and Mangaster occurring twice in Shetland, Captain Thomas interprets as Munku-stadr — i.e., the Monks' Stead or Abode.^ There was a chapel to St Columba on the left of Fladda-Chuain (also in Kilmuir parish), on whose altar lay a blue stone which, as Martin tells us, was believed to work miracles. There are three burying-grounds in the island. One of these, probably that of the chapel, is known as Cladh- Mhanaich — i.e., the Burying-place of the Monks.^ On the island of Borreray, off the coast of North Uist, is a graveyard called, as Martin tells us, "the Monks' Field, for all the monks that died in the Islands that lie North- ward from Egg were bury'd in this little Plot." Martin adds : "There are big Stones without the Burial-place even with the Ground. Several of them have little Vacuities in them as if made by Art ; the Tradition is that these Vacuities were dug for receiving the Monk's Knees when they pray'd upon 'em." ^ Ballimoney in Islay = Baile Mhanaich, is the Dwelling or Townland of the Monks; and Ballinaby, also in Islay, corresponding to Baile-an- Abba, points to an abbot as having had a dwelling there. Professor Mackinnon remarks : " The system of land measure which took root in the Western Isles, and from thence extended to the mainland of Argyll, is not Irish or Pictish, but Norse. The unit is the ounce-land— \hz.t is, 1 Adamnan, Introd., p. xlix, and Liturgy and Ritual of the Celtic Church, P- 'S- ■^ P. S. A., vol. xi. p. 493. 3 N. s. A., Inverness, p. 265. ■• Western Isles, p. 68. THE MONASTERY. 239 the extent of land which paid to the Earl in money or produce an ounce of silver." Professor Mackinnon notes that ounce appears in topography as unga, borrowed from Latin uncia, and that we have an example in Unganab in North Uist — i.e., the Ounce of the Abbot, which he reminds us was included in the rental of the bishopric of the Isles.^ Carmunnock, in Lanarkshire, seems to have had some early monastic associations, if we accept Mr Johnston's interpretation that as the name was written Cormannoc circa 1177, it probably represents Coire-Manaich, the Glen or Corrie of the Monk.^ Certainly about the date just mentioned the Paisley monks became owners of property in the parish. Cosmo Innes observes : " About the year 1 180, Henry, the son of Anselm, gave to the monks of Paisley the church of Cormannoc, with a half plough of land in the manor, and right of common pasture, bequeath- ing a third part of his substance to the church of Saint Mirinus of Paisley, and the bodies of himself and his wife Johanna to be interred there. A condition was added that if the monks granted the parsonage to any one, he should do fealty to the lord of the manor. The grant was con- firmed by King William the Lion ; and Bishop Jocelin likewise confirmed it, and allowed the monks to hold the church to their own use and for their support."^ As we shall see in chap, xxii., Inch-ta-Vannoch and Inch- Gailleach, in Loch Lomond, signify the Island, respectively, of the Monk's House and of the Nun, the latter reference being to St Kentigerna, mother of St Fillan, who retired thither some years before her death in 734. Sir Herbert Maxwell indicates several examples of place- names in the south-west of Scotland showing traces of monastic influence.* His examples include the following — viz., Knockmanister in south Ayrshire, and Auchenmanister, near Glenluce Abbey, in Wigtownshire, meaning respectively the Hill and the Field of the Monastery ; Milmannock, near Ayr, the Monk's Hill (mil being Gaelic meall, a lump) ; Drummanister in Balmaclellan parish, Drummanoch in ' Scotsman, Article No. xiii. ^ Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Carmunnock." ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 64. * Gall. Top. and Land-Names. 240 THE MONASTERY. Buittle parish, and Drumanoghan, Wigtown parish, are interpreted as the Ridge of the Monastery and of the Monks, respectively, — Drumanoghan being for Druim-Manachan, a diminutive form. Sir Herbert explains Kirminnoch, in Inch parish and in Kirkinner parish, as the Monk's Quarter- land; and Kermanachan, in Kirkholm parish, as the Quarter-land of the Monks. Arnmannoch, in Kirkgunzeon parish, and Ironmannach near Parton, he equates with Ard-na-manach — i.e., the Height of the Monks. It may be remarked in passing that the castle and lands of Red- castle in Ross -shire were anciently called Ardmanach. Lane-mannoch, in Kells parish, is thought to be the Stream of the Monks — a hybrid word, the first syllable being lane, Scots for a sluggish stream. Castlemannoch, in Kelton parish, is the Castle of the Monks, and Portbriar at the Isle of Whithorn, the Haven of the Friars ; while Porten- calzie, in Kirkholm parish, is the Haven of the Nuns. Balnab, the Abbot's Dwelling, was near Glenluce Abbey, founded in iigo for Cistercian monks from Melrose. There is another Balnab in the parish of Whithorn. Regarding it Sir Herbert remarks : " This name seems to be of a high antiquity, dating from the days when there were abbots of Whithorn, which was not later, at all events, than the close of the succession of Saxon prelates, about the year 800 a.d. When the see was restored in the twelfth century, Whithorn became a priory." ^ In Sorn parish, Ayrshire, is the estate of Auchmannoch, giving name to the neighbouring Auchmannoch Muir. This, Sir Herbert remarks, is the same as Monkscroft near Auchterarder ; but Bishop Forbes connects it with St Monachus or St Monk, who was patron of the church of Stevenston in Ayrshire, and whose fair is held there on the 30th of October, locally known as Sam-Maneuke's Day.^ The Gaelic term abaid, an abbey, gave rise to the name abthen, applied originally to lands belonging to Columban foundations. Cosmo Innes remarks : " In many cases where the ancient monastery had disappeared before the period of our records, traces of its former possessions are ' Gall. Top. » Kal. THE MONASTERY. 241 found in the lands named Abthania or Abthane, so frequent in Angus and the neighbouring districts. Among the early gifts to the Abbey of Arbroath, King William granted the church of St Mary of Old Munros, with the land of that church which in Scotch is called 'Abthen.' That Scotch word is translated in another charter terra ahhacie de Munros."'^ In a charter of 1220 reference is made to the land of the Abthein of Munifeth, now Monifieth, near Dundee. At Edzell there was an ancient Columban foundation, with lands belonging to it, which afterwards passed to a lay abbot, who seems in consequence to have adopted the surname of Abbe.^ At Dull, in Perthshire, a monastery was founded by St Adamnan towards the end of the seventh century. Its abthanrie is still remembered in the local name of Appin. It had extensive possessions in Strath Tay and Glen Lyon. Mr D. P. Menzies states that the district extending from near the mouth of Glen Lyon on the west to about a mile beyond Aberfeldy on the east used to be known in Gaelic as Appin - na- Meinerich — i.e., Appin of the Menzies, because it formed part of the possessions of the Menzies " as far back as charters go." ^ Appin in Argyll was so called from its connection with the ancient monastery on the opposite island of Lismore. The district contains Appin Bay, Port Appin, and the Airds of Appin on the peninsula between Loch Linnhe and Loch Creran. There is an Appin Hill in Tynron parish, Dum- friesshire. The church-lands in the parish belonged to the Abbey of Holywood, and were probably the possessions of Celtic foundation at an earlier date. Appin near Dun- fermhne, and Abden near Kinghorn, point in all probability to some early Celtic monastery, even though one or both may have belonged to Dunfermline Abbey at a later period. In the 'Exchequer Rolls of Scotland,'* under date 1358, reference is made to "Abthania de Kyngorne," evidently the same as Abden just mentioned. Kettins, in Forfarshire, is beheved to have been the site of a Columban foundation. Jervise observes : " This belief seems to be confirmed in a 1 Early Scotch History, p. 7. '•' Celt. Scot., vol. ii. pp. 394, 395. 3 Red and White Book of Menzies. * Vol. i. p. 564. 242 THE MONASTERY. charter of about 1292-93, by which Hugh of Over, lord of Ketenes, granted 'his well in his lands and Abthanage of Ketenes, called Bradwell, with its aqueduct,' to the Abbey of Cupar."! In ancient times the lands belonging to the Columban monks of Abernethy extended several miles to the east of the monastery. We iind a trace of them in the name of the parish of Abdie, formerly Ebedyn, which, as the Rev. D. Butler indicates, is a corruption of Abthen or Abden.2 Mr Johnston and Mr Liddall connect Abdie with the monastery of Lindores ; but it is to be remem- bered that Abthen points to a Columban rather than to a mediaeval foundation, Lindores, as we shall see, being an example of the latter class. The parish of Newburgh, it is true, now divides Abernethy from Abdie ; but it dates only from modern times, having been created in the seventeenth century from portions of these two parishes. There is some force in the late E. A. Freeman's jest that " in Scotland abbots were clearly greater birds than bishops." There is no doubt that the abbots in the Middle Ages, particularly the mitred abbots, were very important personages. During the process of introducing feudalism into our land in the twelfth century from across the Border, a great change was made in the condition of the old Columban monasteries. A marked feature of the policy then so popular was, as Dr Skene indicates, that of intro- ducing the monastic orders of the Church of Rome and of "establishing monasteries which should form centres of influence for the spread of the new system. Upon these monasteries the remains of the old Columban foundations were to a large extent conferred ; and in this policy the monarchs were very generally seconded by the great earls and barons of Scotland." * When referring to the influences from south of the Tweed in the creation of Scottish monasteries, Dr Joseph Robertson observes : " Canterbury was the mother of Dunfermline, Durham of Coldingham; St Oswald's, at Nosthill near Pontefract, was the parent of Scone, and through that house of St Andrews and Holy- ' Epitaphs, &c., vol. ii. p. 99. ' History of Abernethy, p. 236. " Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 392. THE MONASTERY. 243 rood. Melrose and Dundrennan were daughters of Rievaux in the North Riding; Dryburgh was the offspring of Aln- wick; Paisley of Wenlock."^ It may be interesting to glance at the traces left on topog- raphy by some of our larger monastic establishments. In certain cases these establishments gave rise to the burghs, where their remains are still to be seen. Thus Paisley is the daughter of the Cluniac monastery founded there about 1160 by Walter Fitz-Alan, High Steward of Scotland, and dedicated to St James, St Mirren, and St Milburga of Wenlock. The monastery was at first a priory, but in 1245 was definitely raised to the dignity of an abbey, a privilege provisionally granted some time earlier, and, as the editor of the ' Reg. de Passelet ' ^ mentions, " a century later (probably in the year 1334), Pope Benedict XII. granted to the abbot the privilege of using a mitre and ring, the insignia of a bishop, and of exercising the episcopal functions in all churches and other places subject to the monastery." The burgh of Paisley has still its Abbey parish. So extensive were the possessions of Paisley Abbey that in 1265 thirty churches belonged to it, eleven of these being in Renfrewshire. Before setthng at Paisley the monks found a resting-place near Renfrew, where Abbot's Inch* and Monk-Dyke are still to be found, recalling grants of land made to the monastery. Among its other grants was the district now included in the united parish of Monktoun and Prestwick in Ayrshire. Chalmers says : " The united parish of Monktoun and Prestwick comprehends the whole of the old parish of Prestwick that was anciently called Prestwick-borough. The monks of Paisley having obtained from Walter not only the church of Prestwic, with the glebe and pertinents, but the property of the lands forming the manor of Prestwic, this place was called 'the Monks Prestwic,' and afterwards Monktoun. This'last superseded the original name, which was dropt ; and the village, 1 Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 27. ^ Introduction, p. v. ' The name seems to have been given after the removal of the monastery to Paisley and its elevation to the dignity of an abbey. 244 THE MONASTERY. the church, and the parish have since been called Monktoun."^ In 1244 Crossraguel Abbey, in Maybole parish, was founded by Duncan, Earl of Carrick, for Cluniac monks from Paisley. The new foundation was to be independent of the mother-house except for an annual visitation by the head of the latter to correct any irregularities that might be found at Crossraguel.^ The ruins of the monastery stand on a piece of ground of eight acres in extent, called the Abbot's- Yard or precincts of Crossraguel. They comprise the roofless church, 160 feet by 25 feet (the apsidal choir containing an aumbry, sedilia, and an altar tomb), a square chapter-house, formed in the fifteenth century to take the place of the south transept, and some remains of domestic buildings on the south side.^ The estate of Monkwood, in the same parish, was probably so named from its connection with the monks of Crossraguel. The regality of the abbey included, among other lands, those of Abbotshill.* The Tyronensian abbey of Lindores in Fife was founded towards the end of the twelfth century.* Its erection was the result of a vow made by David, Earl of Huntingdon, grandson of David I., when in peril of shipwreck on his return from the Crusades. The site selected was a gentle rising-ground overlooking the Tay, where the ruins of the abbey may still be seen. The monastery was dedicated to St Mary and St Andrew, and was noted for its orchards. Sibbald says : " Anciently within Earn's-side-wood are the ruins and seat of the abbacy of Lundoris, a right sweet situation, and of a most rich soil, witness the vastly big old 1 Caledonia, vol. iii. pp. 505, 506. "In 1225 Maldoven, Earl of Lennox, confirmed to the monks of Paisley a piece of land called in his charter Dallenlenrath, thought to be Dalmonach in Bonhill parish, Dumbartonshire — i.e., Monksfield." — 'Reg-, de Passelet,' p. 212. ^ Crossraguel Charters, vol. i., Introd., p. xxiv, " Vide Walcott's Scoti-Monasticon, p. 294. * Crossraguel Charters, Introd., p. Iviii. " Bishop Dowden is of opinion that Guido, the first abbot of Lindores, was appointed in 1191. He shows that without doubt Guido was abbot in 1195.— 'Chartulary of Lindores,' Introd., p. xvi. For notes on Seals con- nected with Lindores Abbey, by William Rae Macdonald, F.S.A. Scot., vide the same work, pp. 327-331. THE MONASTERY. 245 pear-trees there." ^ The neighbouring town of Newburgh sprang up under the fostering care of the abbey. In 1266 it was erected into a burgh of barony by Alexander III. in favour of the abbot ; and in the charter of erection it is described as " novus burgus juxta monasterium de Lindores." A spring at Newburgh is known as the Abbot's Well, and another as the Monks' Well ; while in Collessie parish are Monkstown and Monksmoss, the district there having been granted to the monastery to supply it with heather and moss for fuel.^ When Edward III. of England was in Perth in 1335, he ordered the fortifications of the city to be renewed at the expense of certain monasteries — one of them being Lindores. Accordingly its abbot built the Spey-gate, and a tower which, from its monastic associations, received the name of the Monk Tower.^ The church-lands of Monkegie, in Aberdeenshire, were for a time the property of the mon- astery of Lindores. An eminence east of the old burying- ground of the parish is still known as the Monks' Hill.'* The monks settled at Lindores came from Kelso, where an abbe)f was founded by David I. circa 1126 as the suc- cessor of one founded at Selkirk by him some years earlier, when he was Earl of Cumbria, but removed, as his charter indicates, because Selkirk was not suitable for an abbey (" non conveniens abbathise "). In connection with David's desire to plant a monastery at Selkirk, Mr T. Craig-Brown remarks : " He apphed to St Bernard, founder of the Bene- dictine establishment at Tiron, who spared him a draft of thirteen of his followers, men not only of Christian faith but of skill in many branches of industry. To provide for this valuable band of colonisers, whom he located near his own strong castle of Selkirk, Earl David endowed them with wide possessions and valuable privileges." The monastery thus founded gave rise to the name Selkirk-Abbatis, in contrast to that of Selkirk-Regis, a distinction kept up in ecclesiastical documents for a century or two. Mr Craig- Brown says : " We are inclined to think that the property now and in past memory known as The Batts, lying in ' the 1 History of Fife and Kinross, p. 403. ^ N. S. A., Fife, p. 30. ' Fittis's Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth, p. 28. * Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 301. 246 THE MONASTERY. land of Selkirk,' as we interpret the charter, has something to do with the old designation." ^ Among the extensive possessions of Kelso Abbey was some land in Carluke parish, Lanarkshire. In a rental of the abbey, of date 1567, the vicarage of Carluke is rated at nine pounds six shillings and eightpence, and its kirkland at four pounds.^ The ancient church of Carluke, known as the Forest- Kirk, stood near the Clyde, where the farmhouse of Mauldslie-Mains is situated. Some ground close to its site long went by the name of the Abbey- steads.^ In a charter undated, but granted probably circa 1160 by Hugh Riddell, Lord of Cranston in Mid-Lothian, in favour of the monks of Kelso, confirming their right to some property at Preston on his manor of Nether Cranston, reference is made to a piece of ground styled Abbotismedue (Abbot's meadow).* Kelso Abbey also owned land in Lesmahagow parish, where a priory subject to its rule was founded by David I. in 1144. John of Eltham, brother of Edward III., when invading Scotland in 1335, burned the priory and killed several people who had sought refuge within its sanctuary ground. On reaching Perth he met Edward, who slew him with his own hand on account of the cruelties com- mitted by him on his march. Wyntoun, who narrates the incident, says : — " There wes the wengeawnce tane perfay Off the brynnyng off that Abbay." ' Strictly speaking, the Lesmahagow foundation was a priory, not an abbey, though Wyntoun calls it such. The latter name has been used in Abbey-green, applied to the town of Lesmahagow. We find another trace of monastic in- fluence in the parish in the name of the place known as Monks' Stables. About the year 11 18 Earl David founded a monastery at Jedworth, now Jedburgh, by settling there some canons ■ History of Selkirkshire, vol. ii. pp. 2-6. ■■' Liber de Calchou, pp. 492, 494. s q. S. A., vol. viii. p. 121, note. * Liber de Calchou, p. 199. " The Orygynale Cronykil of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 419. THE MONASTERY. 247 regular of the Order of St Augustine, whom he brought from the Abbey of St Quentin at Beauvais in France. The monastery was originally a priory, but about 1147 was raised to the dignity of an abbey. The burgh has a Canongate, and it once had a structure known as the Abbot's Tower, whose ruins were removed in the eighteenth century.^ There is a Monklaw in the parish. Abbotrule, styled Rule Abbatis in a charter of 1220, was an ancient Roxburghshire parish, divided in 1777 equally between the parishes of Hobkirk and Southdean. It was called Rule Hervey in the middle of the twelfth century, and received its later name from the fact that it was then granted to the monastery of Jedburgh, which appears to have retained it till the Reforma- tion.^ There is reason to believe that the lands of Abbot- syke and Abbotshawes in Castletown parish were so called from their connection with the Jedburgh monastery. A convent of Franciscans or Grey Friars was planted at Jed- burgh in 1513 ; and though the building has perished, we find a trace of its occupants in the Friars'-gate, running from the Burnwynd port to the east end of the town, and containing a house known as Friars on the site of the convent. There are also the Friars' - gardens, still noted in modern times for the excellence of the crops produced by an ancient Longueville pear-tree.^ Canonbie, in Dumfriesshire, means the Dwelling of the Canons. It derived its name from a priory of Augustinian canons founded in, or probably before, 1165, between the Liddel and the Esk. It was a cell of Jedburgh Abbey, and continued such till the Reformation. Grose says: "This monastery was frequently plundered and burned by the English, and the prior and canons thereof obliged to abandon their dwelling during the heat of the war.* Vestiges of the priory buildings remain, and in local topography we find Priorholm, Priorliden, and Priorhill. The Franciscans or Grey Friars came into Scotland in 1231, and soon afterwards founded a monastery on the banks of the Teviot, under the walls of Roxburgh. The Rev. James Morton says : " Their 1 N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 11. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. pp. 349, 350. 2 Jeffrey's History of Roxburghshire, vol. ii. p. 107. * Antiquities of Scotland, vol. i. p. 134. 248 THE MONASTERY. church, an arch of which was standing in the memory of persons yet alive, was dedicated in honour of St Peter ; and their cemetery was dedicated on the 4th of May 1235 by William de Bondington, Bishop of Glasgow." ^ When re- ferring to the later fortunes of the friary, Mr A. Jeffrey remarks : " About 1297 the friars appear to have been pensioners of the town, and had right to a part of the fishings in the Tweed. The site of the convent is now occupied by a farmhouse which still retains the name of Friars. Several years ago the occupant of the farm came upon the burying -ground of the Order. A few of the coffins were in a good state of preservation and ornamented with rude plates of iron."^ Some ground in the neighbour- hood is still known as the Friars' Haugh. The brethren of the Greyfriars' Monastery in Dumfries, within whose church Robert Bruce stabbed the Red Comyn in 1306, continue to be remembered in the neighbouring Friars' Vennel. The Kirkcudbrightshire parish of New Abbey recalls Sweetheart Abbey — a Cistercian monastery founded there in 1275 by Devorgilla, mother of John Baliol, to receive the heart of her husband, John de Baliol, who had died six years before, — the sweet heart (dulce cor) being placed in an ivory casket within its walls. The parish contains the lands of Friars' Yard and a stream known as New Abbey Pow. Sweetheart Abbey was called New Abbey to dis- tinguish it from Dundrennan Abbey, founded 133 years earlier by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, and known in con- sequence as Old Abbey. The alternative name given to Rerwick parish, where the ruins of the latter are still to be seen, was Monkton in the seventeenth century, according to Symson,' and Monkland in the following century, accord- ing to Heron.* The stream flowing past the ruins is called Abbey Burn. Another foundation by Fergus in the same district was the Pra^monstratensian abbey of Tongueland, little of which now remains ; but we still have a trace of its influence in Priory Doach and Lairdmannoch, on the ' Monastic Annals of Teviotdale, p. 319. ^ History of Roxburg-hsliire, vol. ii. p. 75. ' Description of Galloway, p. 14. * Journey, vol. ii. p. 199. THE MONASTERY. 249 Dee and the Tarff respectively. The former Sir Herbert Maxwell interprets as the Priory Weir or Cruive, and the latter conjecturally as the Garden of the Monks — the first syllable being perhaps Gaelic lubhghort, a garden (pronounced "lort");i but the etymology is doubtful. In the adjoining parish of Kirkchrist, now united to Twynholm, a nunnery is believed to have existed. Its presence would account for the names of the two farms of High and Low Nunton in the south of the parish. Close to them is Nunmill.^ 1 Gall. Top. 2 N. S. A., Kirkcudbrig-ht, p. 40. CHAPTER XIX. THE MONASTERY — continued. Dryburgh jibbey — Melrose Abbey — Friars' Carse — St Bathan's Nunnery — Eccles Nunnery — Lincluden Nunnery — St Martha! s Hospital, Aberdour — Crawford Nunnery — Abbey Nunnery — Emmanuel Nunnery — Crail Priory — Bervie Monastery — Dunfermline Abbey — Urquhart Priory — Grey friars' and Blackfriars' Monasteries, Elgin — Whitefriars' Mon- astery, Linlithgo'w — Redfriars' Monastery, Dunbar — St Andrews Priory — Carthusian Monastery, Perth — Balmerino Abbey — Whitefriars' Monastery, Aberdeen — Arbroath Abbey — Fyuie Priory — Scone Abbey. The lovely ruins of Dryburgh Abbey take our thoughts back to the middle of the twelfth century, when a Prsemonstra- tensian monastery was founded there either by David I. or by his High Constable, Hugo de Morville — for there is some doubt as to the real founder. In the ' Chronica de Mailros ' we read, "Anno 1150, Ordo Prasmonstratensis venit ad Drue- burch, ad festiuitatem Sancti Martini " (November 10) ; and again, "Anno 1152, Conventus venit ad Driburgh die Sancte Lucie " (December 13) " et Rogerus factus est abbas primus." ^ These statements evidently imply that though the monks, who came from Alnwick, were brought to Dry- burgh in 1 150, the monastic community was not organised till two years later. Sir William Dugdale remarks : " Dry- burgh was burnt and plundered by the English in 1323. King James VI. gave this abbey, with its revenue, to the Earl of Mar, who erected it into a temporal lordship, to- gether with Inchmahomac in Perthshire, in favour of Henry Erskine, the earl's third son by the Lady Mary Stewart."^ In a charter of David, Commendator of Dryburgh, of date ' Pp- 74. 75- - Mon. Anglic. THE MONASTERY. 25 1 1580, reference is made to Monkfurde (Monksford) in con- nection with fishings in the Tweed; and in a " Rentall of the Lordship of Dryburght," circa 1620, there is mention of Nunland in Foulden parish, where some nuns are believed to have been settled.^ The canons of Dryburgh had prop- erty at Heytoun, in Roxburgh parish, including Prior's Land, mentioned in a seventeenth century Retour.^ The parish of Melrose has many monastic associations. At Old Melrose (anciently Melros), about two miles from the town of Melrose, on a peninsula formed by a bend of the Tweed, a monastery was founded by St Aidan of Lindis- farne towards the middle of the seventh century. Its first abbot was Eata, who had Boisil under him as prior. The latter was succeeded by his pupil Cuthbert. The place was burned in 839 by Kenneth, King of the Scots, when invading the territory of the Angles, but seems to have been rebuilt some years later. Before the end of the eleventh century the monastery appears to have been ruined and deserted except for a short time between 1073 and 1075, when it was occupied by a few monks, including Turgot, afterwards Bishop of St Andrews and confessor to Queen Margaret. The monastery was succeeded by a chapel, dedicated to St Cuthbert.^ Pilgrimages^ were made to the chapel in later times, and leading to it was a road called the Girth- gate — i.e., the Sanctuary Way. A new site was selected on the plain between the Eildons and the Tweed, when, in 1136, the foundations were laid of King David's Cistercian abbey of St Mary of Melrose. The building was consecrated ten years later, but was destroyed during the wars of succession, after the death of Alexander IIL in 1286. The rebuilding of the monastery, whose ruins still form such an attraction to Melrose, was largely due to the efforts of Robert Bruce, whose heart, after having been brought back from Spain, was buried within its walls. The extent of the abbey's possessions are thus indicated by Professor Innes : " The monks had lands upon their own river, and round their monastery, and at Berwick, Peebles, Roxburgh, besides great districts in '■ Liber de Dryburgh, pp. 313, 368. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 494. ' O. P. S., vol. i. pp. 279, 280. 252 THE MONASTERY. Teviotdale. They had, too, immense grants of pastures in Eskdale, Kyle and Carrick, Haddington, and the Lammer- moors, and were the growers of the finest wool shipped from Scotland. In their chartulary we find everywhere strict rules for the protection of agriculture, and evidence of the good husbandry of the abbey." ^ In the topography of Melrose parish we have such signifi- cant names as Cloister Close, Abbotsford, Priorswood, the Prior's Well, Monksford, the Monks' Well, and the Haly Wheel, — the last being a rapid in the Tweed. There is a tradition that, between the decline of the Old Melrose monastery and the building of King David's abbey, there was another monastic foundation planted mid-way between their respective sites, which gave the name of Red Abbey Stead to a field near the village of Newstead.^ At the Reformation the abbey lands in the parish included, among others, Friercroft (Friarcroft) and Freirshaw (Friarwood). Among the possessions of the abbey elsewhere than at Melrose may be mentioned Monks' Tower and Monks' Croft at Hassendean, and the Munkland (Monkland) in Maybole parish, described by Abercrummie as "ane loo merkland of old extent which is an appendage of the Abbacy of Melrose." ^ In Linton parish, Roxburghshire, are Prior Row and Priory- meadow, but it is not certain to what monastery the names point. The estate of Friars' Carse, in Dunscore parish, Dum- friesshire, was also among the possessions of Melrose Abbey, and had a cell dependent upon it. When referring to the building, Grose remarks : " The old refectory had walls 8 feet thick, and the chimney was 12 feet wide. This old building, having become ruinous, was pulled down in 1773 to make way for the present house. Near the house is the Lough, which was the fish-pond of the friary, in the middle of which is a very curious artificial island, founded upon large piles and planks of oak, where the monks lodged their valuable effects when the English made an inroad into Strathnith."* Some antique stone figures placed in the ' Legal Antiquities, pp. 167, 168. - N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 58. ' Description of Carrick in Pitcairn's ' History of the Kennedys,' p. 167. ■* Antiquities of Scotland, vol. i. p. 149. THE MONASTERY. 253 avenue leading to the mansion-house are thought to have adorned the mediaeval building. In the Lammermoor district of Berwickshire were the two pre - Reformation parishes of Strafontane and St Bathans, the latter called after Baithene, St Columba's cousin and successor as Abbot of lona. After the Refor- mation they were united under the name of Abbey St Bathans, the first part of the name referring to a convent founded towards the end of the twelfth century by Ada, daughter of William the Lion and wife of the Earl of March, for Cistercian nuns from Berwick. The convent stood between the church and the Whitadder, but the buildings were removed many years ago. The convent gardens, which lay to the south and east of the church, were known as the Precincts -yards. Also to the east of the church is St Bathan's Well, formerly frequented for its supposed miraculous powers of healing, and locally believed never to freeze.^ The writer of the parish sketch in the ' N. S. A.' ^ observes : " It is a favourite article of belief in this quarter that a subterranean passage exists leading from the nunnery of St Bathans below the Whitadder to the church of Strafontane, by which the nuns went, unseen, to be confessed by the clergy there." The convent, besides giving name to the parish, is still remembered in the emi- nence known as Abbey Hill. A Cistercian nunnery dedicated to the Virgin was founded by Cospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, in or about 1155, at Eccles, in the same shire. It originated the names of Nunbank and Nunmoss in Fawside, and of Nunmyre in the lands of Tod- rig, as well as of certain Nuncrofts in the same district.^ In 1545 the nunnery, like the town, was burned by the Earl of Hertford during his invasion of Scotland, and was not rebuilt. About the same time as the foundation of the nunnery at Eccles, a colony of Benedictine nuns was settled at Lin- cluden, near Dumfries, by Uchtred, second son of Fergus, Lord of Galloway. The nuns remained in possession till towards the end of the fourteenth century, when, on ac- count of certain irregularities, they were expelled by 1 N. S. A., Berwick, p. 109. 2 Ibid., p. no. » r. M. S. 254 THE MONASTERY. Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas, and the establish- ment was converted into a collegiate church for a provost and twelve canons. The ivy-clad ruins of the college are picturesquely situated close to the junction of the Cluden and the Nith. The earlier occupants of the place are re- called by such names as Nunfield and Nunwood in the neighbourhood of Lincluden, and by Nunland in Lochrutton parish, where the church belonged to the nunnery.^ Nun- land and Nunholme, Mr Macdowall informs us, are men- tioned in " The Register Bulk of the Fewis maid be the College Kirk of Lincluden, 1547-64."^ At Aberdour, in Fife, was a spring, styled in 1479 "le pilgramys well," resorted to, as the name implies, by many a pilgrim anxious for the restoration of health. To accom- modate these, a charitable institution, dedicated to St Martha, was founded by James, Earl of Morton, and in i486 was placed under the charge of four claresses or nuns of St Francis. Regarding these nuns Cardonnell remarks: "The Nuns who followed the rule of St Francis were established by St Clare, from whom they took their name. St Clare was born at Assis6 in Italy, and was by St Francis him- self admitted into the Order in 1212. A number of ladies followed her example, for whom St Francis wrote a particular Rule, full of rigour and great austerities."' Eight acres near Aberdour were bestowed on St Martha's Hospital, and were in consequence known as the Sister- Lands. In 1560 the establishment came to an end ; and the Sister-Lands, with the nunnery and its garden, passed into lay hands.* The name Sisterlands survived, and was applied in modern times to the field adjacent to the manse garden.^ A place on the east bank of the Daer, in Crawford parish, Lanarkshire, is called the Nunnery; but there is no tradition regarding the origin of the name." We know more about Abbey, a village on the Tyne near Haddington. A Cistercian ' Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 339. ^ Chronicles of Lincluden, p. 106. ' Picturesque Antiquities of Scotland, p. 22. * Vide notice of the Hospital of St Martha at Aberdour, Fife, by the Rev. W. Ross, in ' P. S. A. Scot.,' vol. iii. pp. 214-220. » O. S. A., vol. iv. p. 334, « O. P. S., vol. i. p. i66. THE MONASTERY. 255 nunnery was founded there in 1178 by Ada, mother of Mal- colm IV. and William the Lion. Major, who was born near Haddington, and must have known the convent well, describes it as "fair and well-endowed."^ Fordun mentions a tradition that during a great flood in the river in the year 1358, when the buildings seemed likely to be swept away, the Virgin, to whom t_Jie convent was dedicated, intervened in its behalf. There are now no remains of the structure, but the name of the village keeps its memory alive. In 1471 the prioress and her nuns took legal proceedings against the lairds of Yester and Mackerston, who had seized their lands of Nunhopes, with the result that restitution was made to the convent.^ The estate of Huntingdon, near Haddington, was formerly called Nunside ; and there is still Nungate, a suburb of the town, lying to the east of the river — i.e., the gate or way taken by the nuns when going to and from their convent. The nunnery had lands in Garvald parish, where, about the middle of the fifteenth century, a; fortalice known as Nunraw was erected. Mr D. Croal remarks: " It was a stout fabric, built not so much for ornament as for protection to the nuns and their valuables. The massive height and breadth of the main walls, with their narrow slits of windows, were relieved by the graceful towers that rose at intervals, and by the bold masonry of the corbels and gargoyles that ornamented the battlements."^ Though altered in later times, the house, which stands on the edge of a deep glen, where flows the Nunraw Burn, still retains many mediaeval features. Some structural alterations, carried out about the middle of last century, brought to light the painted ceihng of the refectory, bearing, along with allegorical figures, the arms of the Kings of Scotland, England, Navarre, Arra- gon, Egypt, &c. Chalmers says : " In February 1547-48 Elizabeth Hepburn, the prioress, appeared before the regent and his council, and engaged to keep the fortlet of Nunraw from their old enemies, or to cause it to be razed."* In Muiravonside parish, Stirlingshire, is Manuel Junction, on the North British Railway, so called from Emmanuel 1 History of Greater Britain, p. 165. '' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 504. 3 Sketches of East Lothian, p. 45. * Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 504. 2S6 THE MONASTERY, Priory — a Cistercian nunnery built beside the Avon by Malcolm IV. about 1156. Regarding this nunnery Grose remarks: "Besides the endowments bestowed by the royal founder, it received considerable donations from others at different periods. King William, surnamed the Lion, made a grant of the tenth of all his revenues in the shire and borough of Linlithgow, both money and victuals. Alex- ander IL made a donation of the mills of Linlithgow with all their sequels and appurtenances ; and Roger de Avenel bestowed on the holy sisters a chalder of wheat, to be paid by him and his heirs, out of his barns of Abercorn, at Christmas yearly. Of this nunnery little remains except the west end of the church. This fragment contains an arched door or gateway, with three small Gothic windows over it, and over these a circular one. Part of the south wall of the church was standing till the beginning of the year 1788, when, the river having risen to an unusual height, it was swept away by the violence of the waters with part of the bank used as a cemetery."^ Crail, in Fife, had a priory dedicated to St Rufus, who is probably to be identified with St Maelrubha. Nothing is known regarding the date of its foundation ; but what is described as a ruinous gable with Gothic windows was visible till about one hundred years ago, when it was thrown down by the sea. The ruin was known as the Prior Walls. Close to its site are a field and a spring, still known respectively as the Prior's Croft and the Briery (or Priory) Well.^ We are told that charters connected with feus in the burgh of Bervie, in Kincardineshire, contain names such as Friars Dubbs, in- dicating former monastic associations. Near Friars Dubbs an ancient cemetery was discovered many years ago.* Such names point to a Carmelite or White Friars' monastery, known to have once stood close to Bervie. We get a glimpse of the monastery in an Act of the Scottish Parlia- ment of date 1587, in which reference is made to certain possessions " qlkis pertenit to the freris carmelitane sum- tyme situat beside the bur'- of Inuerbervie." * ' Antiquities of Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 67, 68. - N. S. A., Fife, p. 964. ^ N. S. A., Kincardine, p. 7. " Acts of the Parliaments of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 489. THE MONASTERY. 25/ The Benedictine abbey of Dunfermline was established by David I. in 1128 on the basis of a religious foundation by Queen Margaret dedicated to the Holy Trinity.^ It has left its impress on topography in Abbey Parks, an estate in the neighbourhood of the burgh, and Abbot's Hall, a parish on the coast. The name of the latter is thus explained in the ' O. S. A.' :2 " It is said that an abbot of Dunfermline built a summer-house near the place where the church of Abbot's Hall now stands, and called it the Hall of the Abbot." The Rev. J. W. Taylor says : " The site of the Hall of the Abbot is known to have been where the Raith gardens are now, and these gardens were wont to be generally called the Abbotshall gardens." ^ An ancient yew is believed to mark the spot where the mansion stood. Little Monkton, and Monkton Hall at Musselburgh, were also connected with Dunfermline Abbey. Urquhart Priory, in Elginshire, — another of David's foundations, — was a cell of Dunfermline. Its ruins were removed about the middle of the seventeenth century, but it is still remembered in the name of Abbey Well, close to the site of the building. The Franciscan or Greyfriars' monastery at Elgin, whose church was restored in 1898 by the late Marquess of Bute, was founded by Alexander II., and gave name to the property known as the Greyfriars. Writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, Cordiner says: "The dwellings, belonging to a convent of Franciscan friars in Elgin, are many of them still habitable, and afford spacious apartments ; and the remains of the adjoining church are highly orna- mental, in a noble Gothic stile."* Alexander II. also estab- lished a colony of Dominican or Black Friars at Elgin. Their house stood on the low ground between Lady Hill and the Lossie ; and although the building has entirely disappeared, its site continues to be known as the Black Friars' Haugh. Friars Brae at Linlithgow is a rising-ground where once stood a Carmelite or Whitefriars' monastery, dating from 1290. Not far off is a spring known as the Friars' Well. The church of Irvine, in Ayrshire, belonged to the abbey ' Reg^. de Dunfermelyn, Pref., p. xi. ' Vol. iv. p. 185. 2 Historical Antiquities of Fife, vol. ii. p. 54. * Remarkable Ruins, &c., vol. i. R 258 THE MONASTERY. of Kilwinning; but Friars' Ford, mentioned in an Irvine charter of date 1477, points rather to the White Friars, who were settled in the burgh probably in the fourteenth century.! Friar's Croft at Dunbar, in East Lothian, repre- sents the site of a Trinity or Redfriars' monastery, founded there by Patrick, fifth Earl of Dunbar. Regarding this monastery Chalmers remarks: "In 1218, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded a house of Red or Trinity Friars at Dun- bar ; and the lands, which piety or zeal had given them, were transferred, after the Reformation, to George Home of Friarsland." ^ The priory of St Andrews was founded in 1144 for Augustinian canons. It "soon took its place as the first in rank of the religious houses of Scotland ; and its prior, with the ring and mitre of a bishop, had rank and place in Parliament above the abbots and all other prelates of the regular Church."^ The influence of the priory on topography is to be traced in the name of " freremedev " (friar-meadow), mentioned in an indenture, dated 1405, of certain lands feued to Thomas, Archdeacon of St Andrews.* Friarton, in Forgan parish, seems also to have been connected with the priory of St Andrews. The ancient church of the parish was among the possessions of the latter. The lands of Friarton at Perth belonged to the Carthusian monastery founded in the Fair City by James I. in 1429. They have given name to the hamlet of Friarton, close to which, at a rapid bend of the Tay, is a deep pool known as the Friarton Hole,^ where, according to tradition, a large bell, which was being landed at the pier in pre-Reformation times, fell into the water and was never recovered. The Dominican or Blackfriars' monastery, founded at Perth in 1 23 1, was represented in local topography by the Black- friars' Wynd and the Blackfriars' Croft. The latter lay to the south of the lands of Balhousie, and was at one time a farm, with fields of grass and corn, but is now covered with houses." ■ Irvine Charters, vol. i. p. 151. -^ Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 508. * Cosmo Innes's Scotch Legal Antiquities, pp. 163, 164. * Reg. Prior. S. Andree, p. 422. " Kittis's Ecclos. Annals of Perth, pp. 42, 249. " The Blackfriars of Perth, Introd., pp. xxiii, xxix. THE MONASTERY. 259 In a charter of 147 1 we read of the lands of Freretoune, at Balmerino in Fife.^ These were connected with the Cistercian abbey of St Mary and St Edward the Confessor, founded in 1227 by Ermengarda, widow of William the Lion, who had previously visited the place on more than one occasion, and had derived benefit to her health from her residence there. Though the erection of the monastery was due to her, its foundation charter runs in the name of her son, Alexander II. The abbey was burned by the Enghsh under Admiral Wyndham on Christmas night 1547. The parish has both a Prior's Well and a Monk's Well. Beyond the parish we find a trace of the influence of the monastery — viz., at Barry in Forfarshire. The Rev. Dr Campbell remarks : " In 1552 a feu-charter of certain lands at Barry was given to Robert Forrester, and the reddendo included the furnishing a house to the abbot and his factors when they went thither to keep their courts. There was there also a piece of ground called the Abbots' Horse- ward." ^ In the 'Taxt Roll of the Abbacye of Balmerinoch,' of date 1617, we find a Friermylne among the possessions of the monastery. Aberdeen had a farm of Friartoun at Rubislaw, mentioned in a charter of 1438-39. It was probably connected either with the Blackfriars' or the Whitefriars' monastery. The former, founded by Alexander II. in 1222, is believed to have stood mid-way between the School-hill and Gordon's Hospital. It was demolished in 1560, and various houses were built out of its ruins ; but its memory survives in the name of Blackfriars' Street. The Whitefriars' monastery, established in 1350, occupied a site on the south side of the Green, near what is now Carmelite Street.^ The mon- astery owned the Friar's Glen in Fordoun parish, Kincar- dineshire. Regarding it Jervise says : " In 1402 Fraser of Frendraught granted the property to the Carmelite or White Friars of Aberdeen, who continued to draw the revenues of it down to the Reformation. Then the glen passed to the Earl Marischal, who granted it to the Marischal College of Aberdeen, from which it passed by ^ Reg-. Mag. Sig. ^ Balmerino and Its Abbey, p. 94, note. ' The Book of Bon Accord, pp. 26, 27, 125. 26o THE MONASTERY. purchase more than half a century ago to the proprietor of Drumtochty."^ Forty - nine years before Ermengarda's foundation at Balmerino, referred to above, her husband had founded the great Abbey of Arbroath, dedicated to the Virgin and St Thomas a Becket. When speaking of the First Pointed period of architecture in Scotland, Dr Joseph Robertson observes: "Of the conventual churches of this age the grandest undoubtedly was that which the fears or the devotion of the King of Scots reared on the shore of Angus in honour of St Thomas A Becket. It was founded in 1178, —within seven years of the martyrdom of the heroic primate, — was so far built in 1214 as to receive the tomb of its royal founder, and was consecrated in presence of his son in 1233. It now exists only in ghastly fragments, which, seen from sea, have an imposing look, but viewed closely serve for little more than to denote the style and great size of the fabric." ^ The monastery has left a trace of itself in the names of Abbot's Harbour, Abbey-green, and Abbey parish. Other traces in local topography are indicated by Mr David Miller,^ including such names as Abbey Path; Lordburn (thought to be the Lord Abbot's Burn); Ward- dykes, from the ward or enclosure belonging to the abbot ; Barn -green, where the thrashing barns of the monastery stood; Fisher Acre, belonging to the person who supplied the convent with fish ; and Punderlaw, the hill of the Punder or Poinder, who had charge of the woods of the monastery, and derived his name from having to poind or impound strayed cattle. Mr Miller also mentions Almory Street and Almory Close, connected with the alms given to the poor, as well as the Cellarer's Croft, Granitor's Croft, and Smithy Croft, the last two recalling respectively the Granitor, who had charge of the grain and the granaries, and the smith or master of works (Magister Fabrice) who had to attend to the repair of the monastery buildings. Among the fishings belonging to Arbroath Abbey was a net fishing in the North Esk called St Thomas, in honour ' Memorials, vol. i. p. 145. '^ Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 43. ' Arbroath and Its Abbey, pp. 58, 163, 173-177. THE MONASTERY. 261 of its patron saint. In an abbey charter of 1466 reference is made to some land in the district of Futtie, at Aberdeen, belonging to the monastery, and then styled Abbatis Hal (Abbot's Hall).i On the other side of the Dee, in Nigg parish, is the farm of Abbots-Walls, formerly styled Abbot's Hall. Regarding it Jervise remarks: " It is said that the abbots of Arbroath had a residence upon the haugh on the south side of the Dee. All trace of the old building is gone; but Abbots' Walls is still the name of a farm near Kincorth. It is called 'Abbots' hall' in old titles; and in 1592, when Duncan Forbes of Monymusk had a feu of lands in and around Torry, ' the yairdis of the maner place ' of Abbots-hall are specially mentioned." ^ " Marjory, Countess of Buchan, bestowed the church of Turriff on the abbey of Arbroath about 1214, but she seems to have revoked her gift soon after, for her son. Earl William, in 1273 gave the church-lands of Turriff to the almshouse which he founded there. In the foundation charter the boundary of these lands is said to run 'vsque ad uiam monachorum ' — i.e., the monks' gate or way, a place which, Jervise tells us, is still pointed out at Turriff." * The monks in this case were probably those connected with a Celtic monastery at Turriff, which survived till the twelfth century, but seems to have come to an end before the date of Earl William's charter. According to the 'N. S. A.,'* some houses at Turriff are known as Abbey-Land. St Mary's Priory, founded in 1179 at Fyvie, in the same shire, by Fergus, Earl of Buchan, was a dependency of Arbroath. The memory of its Tyron- ensian monks survives in the name of Monkshill, an estate in the parish mentioned in an Arbroath Abbey charter of 1508.5 The monastery of Scone, which stood on the site of the present palace of Scone, owed its erection in 11 14 to ' In the year mentioned, Malcolm, Abbot of Arbroath, feued to William Lutar, burg-ess of Aberdeen, and Marjory his wife, " illam vastam terram suam vulg-ariter nunciipatam ly Abbatis Hal jacentem in fotino infra burgum de Abirden."— ' Liber S. Thome de Aberbrothoc,' vol. ii. p. 151. * Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 18. ■'' Ibid., vol. ii. p. 219, and Collect. Aberdeen and BanflF, p. 467. * Aberdeen, p. 998. ° Liber S. Thome de Aberbrothoc, vol. ii. p. 373. 262 THE MONASTERY. Alexander I., who settled there a band of Augustinian canons brought by him from St Oswald's Priory, near Pontefract in Yorkshire. Scone was at first a priory, but was raised to the dignity of an abbey when Robert, Prior of Restennet, became its head in 1162. Alexander's monastery succeeded a Culdee foundation whose church was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The new foundation was placed under the patronage of the Virgin, St Michael, St John, St Lawrence, and St Augustine. The last of these was remembered in the name of Sanct Augustenis-Land (St Augustine's land), mentioned in a charter of 1585.^ Among other possessions of the monastery were lands known as Abbotiscroft and Friertoun respectively.^ The church of Echt, in Aberdeen- shire, was granted to Scone Abbey about 1220 ; and in the parish is Monecht, anciently Monksecht.^ It is interesting to find a monastery on the banks of the Tay possessing a link with the far North. The abbot of Scone was, ex officio, one of the prebendaries of Dornoch Cathedral in Suther- land; and his prebend was the church of Kildonan, in the same county. The writer of the article on Kildonan parish in the' N. S. A.'"* says: "The abbots of Scone continued in charge of this church until the Reformation ; and the foundation of Tea'n Abb, or the Abbot's House, is still seen to the west of the manse, while the figure of a human head, rudely carved in stone, and called the Abbot's Head, is preserved in the garden wall of the manse." 1 R. M. S., 1580-93, p. 309. "^ Liber Ecclesie de Scon, Pref., pp. ix, x ; and pp. 227, 229. ' Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. i. pp. 65, 66. ■■ Sutherland, p. 148. CHAPTER XX. THE MONASTERY — continued. Coupar-Angus Abbey — Camhuskenneth Abbey — Inchajfray Abbey — Deer Abbey — Closters — Kilminster — Kinloss Abbey — Grange — Neivbnttle Abbey — Priories of Pluscarden, Beauly, and Ardchattan — St Catherine's Nunnery, Edinburgh — Holyrood Abbey. St Mary's Cistercian abbey of Coupar-Angus was founded by Malcolm IV. in 1164. Dr Rogers remarks : " The abbey occupied the centre of a military intrenchment — most prob- ably of a Roman camp,- — but its original form and extent cannot be traced. The only portion which remains is an archway at the south-west corner, which is supposed to have formed part of the porter's lodge." ^ Among the large possessions of the abbey was almost the whole of Bendochy parish, where we find Cupar-Grange, Abbey Mill, Monk Mire, and Monk Cally, telling of monastic ownership ; while a track, leading to the abbey from the wood of Campsie, in Cargill parish, came to be known as the Abbey Road, for along it was carried fuel for the monastery.^ The Cistercian monastery of Camhuskenneth, otherwise styled St Mary's Abbey of StirHng, had David I. as its founder in 1147. Little more than its detached tower of four stories now remains to tell of the splendid monastic pile; but topography keeps ahve its memory in the name, of the neighbouring picturesque height of Abbey Craig, where stands the Wallace Monument as a memorial of the hero who won for Scotland the battle of Stirling Bridge on 12th September 1297. In 1531 the abbot of Camhuskenneth 1 Register of Cupar Abbey, vol. i., Pref., p. xxi. 2 N. S. A., Perth, p. 1143, and Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. pp. 203, 204. 264 THE MONASTERY. and some of his tenants who had fishings on the Forth sued certain baillies of Stirhng for alleged "wrangus spoilatioun of cobillis and nettis." In the summons issued, mention is made of the " convent lands of Abbotishude, Hand within the schirefdome of Clakmannane."^ The abbey of Inchaffray, in Madderty parish, was founded before 1198 by Gilbert, Earl of Strathearn, and his wife Matildis, and was dedicated to the Virgin and St John the Evangelist. Mauritius, its abbot, was present at the battle of Bannockburn, and sought to stir the patriotic zeal of the Scottish army. Its abbots used to take refuge in troublous times on a small island in Loch Etive, still known in consequence as Elinanabb (anglicised Abbot's Isle).^ In a Taxed Roll of the Lordship of Inchaffray, of date 1630, we read of " the croft of Gorthie callit the Abbotis croft, and the croft of Arbeny callit Abbottis Croft " ; and in another Inchaffray charter, of date 1558, we find a " priouris medo " (Prior's Meadow); while in a third (undated) is "Abbottis Mos of Southertoun." ^ The monastery had some land in Crieif parish, where we find Milnab, which Sir Herbert Maxwell interprets as the Abbot's Hill, the prefix being Gaelic meall, a hill or lump; but the name, written in a charter of 1595-96 Mylneab, is more probably the Abbot's Mill. The writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.'* remarks in 1838 : " Milnab, or Mill of the Abbot, is now greatly reduced both in size and consequence from what it was in former days. In the year 1677 mention is made of the lands and barony which contained the town, mill, and mill-lands of Milnab. There was a religious house connected with Inchaffray near the mill, and the last generation but one remembered the ruins of it." Deer, in Buchan, had monastic associations from an early date. About the year 580 a Columban monastery, with St Drostan at its head, was founded there, and retained its Celtic character till the twelfth century. According to a story in the ' Book of Deer,' Columba along with Drostan and other clerics came to a certain town belonging to the Mormaer of Buchan, which the latter refused to give to ' Cambuskenneth Cliartulary, p. 291. - N. S. A., Argyll, p. 512. 5 Liber Insule Missarum, pp. 96, 105, 122. •■ Perth, p. 499, note. THE MONASTERY. 265 them for their religious establishment. The Mormaer's son was seized with illness, but was restored to health by the prayers of the clerics, with the result that the town was handed over to them, and there the monastery was founded. Before Columba left the district he invested Drostan with full authority over the newly founded settlement. "After that Columcille gave to Drostan that town and blessed it, and left as his word that ' whosoever should come against it, let him not be many-yeared, or victorious.' Drostan's tears came on parting with Columcille. Said Columcille, ' Let Dear be its name henceforward.' " Regarding the etymology of Deer, Dr John Stuart observes: "It seems in every way probable that the Deer of Buchan took its name from the surrounding oak-woods. The parish is believed to have been at one time covered with wood, and the names of such places as Aikiehill and Aikiebrae still preserve the recollection of the oaks which once grew there." Oak is darach in Gaelic and dair in Irish. Tear is deur or diar in Gaelic and dear or dear in Irish. The successor of St Drostan's monastery — the Cistercian abbey of Deer — was founded in 1219 by William, Earl of Buchan, on a site about two miles to the west of the spot where the earlier establishment is believed to have stood.^ There is still an Abbey Well at Deer. In Udny parish are Cloisterseat and Monkshill. These, the Rev. Dr Temple thinks, point to a local religious establishment once connected with the Abbey at Deer.^ On the lands of Murkle, in Olrick parish, Caithness, is the burn of Closters, believed to have derived its name from a neighbouring nunnery, whose site continued to be known as the Glosters. In connection with his visit to the north of Scotland in 1769, Pennant says : " I was told by the late Earl of Cathness that there was a nunnery in antient times near his seat at Murkil. The country people call the place the Glosters; but no vestige of the building is extant ex- cepting the remains of the garden wall, which enclosed a rich spot of ground."^ Kilminster, giving name to a loch and a moss in Wick parish, was the property of the Bishops ' The Book of Deer, pp. 5, 10, 48. ^ Thanage of Fermartyn, p. 476. ^ Tour, vol. i. p. 330. 266 THE MONASTERY. of Caithness. In the middle of Kilminster Moss are the ruins of St Duthac's chapel, popularly known as the Kirk of Moss. Kilminster, otherwise written Kilminister and Kilmister and locally pronounced Kilmster, suggests at first sight some connection with a monastery; but its etymology is uncertain.^ When the Earl of Buchan's monastery was founded at Deer, as indicated above, it was colonised from the abbey of Kinloss in Elginshire, whose monks had come, some seventy years earlier, from Melrose. Kinloss Abbey was founded by David I. in 1151, and dedicated to the Virgin, who, according to one legend, appeared to the king in a dream when asleep, and told him to build a church in her honour, on the spot where he was then sleeping. According to another legend, the site of the monastery was chosen on account of a miraculous blossoming of flowers on the tomb of King Duffus. Cordiner says that the place was in consequence originally styled Templum florum.^ An attempt — but not a successful one — has been made to extract Kin- floss out of Kinloss. Camden says that Kinloss "was called by some Kill-floss, from the flowers that sprung up there miraculously on the discovery of the body of King Duff, murdered and concealed there." ^ In connection with his visit to the place, Pennant says : " The prior's chamber, two semicircular arches, the pillars, the couples of several of the roofs, afford specimens of the most beautiful Gothic architecture in all the elegance of simplicity, without any of its fantastic ornaments. Near the abby is an orchard of apple- and pear-trees, at least coeval with the last monks; numbers lie prostrate; their venerable branches seem to have taken fresh roots, and were loaden with fruit, beyond what could be expected from their antique look."* The monastery had large possessions, and its abbots were mitred. The buildings suffered much in the middle of the seventeenth century, quantities of stones having been then removed to Inverness to aid in the construction of Crom- well's citadel. ' O..P. S., vol. ii. p. 773. '■^ Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Scotland, p. 60. ^ Britannia, vol. iv. p. 174. •> Tour, vol. i. pp. 148, 149. THE MONASTERY. 267 Among the lands owned by Kinloss Abbey was the barony of Glenisla in Banffshire, extending from the Knock to the Balloch, granted by King William the Lion, who reigned from 1165 to 1214. Dr WilHam Cramond mentions that the original charter is still in the possession of the Duke of Fife. This barony was used by the monks as a grange or farm. Their farmhouse is believed to have stood on a rising ground overlooking the haughs of the Isla. The memory of the ancient barony is still kept alive in the name of the parish of Grange. After referring to the localities mentioned in King William's charter, Dr Cramond remarks : " In passing these places and seeing the ploughman at work, I often wonder if he reflects that these fields have been in cultivation since the inhabitants of this parish spoke only Gaelic, and that for 700 years at least they have been constantly ploughed and sown and reaped." ^ It may be remarked in passing that the Grange at Edinburgh was connected not with a monastery but with the collegiate church of St Giles. ^ The Grange burn in Stirlingshire, which gives name to the port of Grangemouth, recalls a Grange belonging to the monks of Newbattle. In its neighbourhood are Abbotsgrange and Abbotshaugh, both pointing to the head of that monastery. Writing in 1817, Nimmo, in reference to the former, says : " Adam de Morham granted to the same Monastery (Newbattle) a tract of land called the Grange of Bereford, lying upon the south side of the Carron. It is now known as Abbot's Grange, and is included in the newly erected parish of Polmont. Here the abbot had a country seat, some remains of which, together with those of the garden, are still to be seen." ^ Mention should also be made of the Abbotslands of Kerse in the same district, named in the ' Exchequer Rolls of Scotland,' * in connection with the annual rent paid from their fermes in the year 1524-25, "de terris vocatis Abbatislandis de Kers cum suis pertinentiis jacentibus infra vicecomitatum de Striveling." Preston -Grange, in East Lothian, was another of the farms belonging to the same monastery. Chalmers re- 1 The Parish of Grange, pp. 4, 5. ^ Vide Appendix, C. 3 History of Stirling-shire, p. 157. * Vol. xv. p. 627. 268 THE MONASTERY. marks : " Robert de Quincey granted to the monks of New- botle, about the year 1184, the lands of Preston, where they settled an agricultural establishment, which was afterward called Preston -Grange, with common of pasture, in the manor of Tranent, for ten sheep, and for oxen sufficient to cultivate their grange ; he also gave them six acres of meadow in his manor of Tranent, and twenty cart-loads of peats from the peatary of his lordship, with the liberty of taking wood for fuel for the use of their grange, where the men of his manor could take the same." ^ The monastery in question — viz., the Cistercian abbey of Newbattle, on the South Esk in Mid-Lothian — was founded by David I. in 1140 or 1141. Its topographical features are thus described by Cosmo Innes : " The situation of New- battle is of that kind which the Cistercians most of all affected. The South Esk, escaped from the green hills of Temple and the woody ravines of Dalhousie, widens its valley a little to give room for a long range of fair, level haughs. At the very head of these meadows, and close to the brook, the abbey stands. Behind, to the north, are the remains of the ancient monkish village, once occupied by the hinds and shepherds of the convent, but separated from the abbey gardens by a massive stone wall, ascribed to the time and the personal care of William the Lion, which still forms the boundary of the park on that side." ^ Newbattle, or Newbottle as it was formerly called, means New Build- ing ; but, like Newburgh already mentioned, it has a name not now in harmony with its age. It appears to have been called Newbottle to distinguish it from Elbottle — i.e., Old Building — in Dirleton parish. East Lothian, where there was anciently a convent forming a cell of the Cistercian nunnery at Berwick -on -Tweed. Newbottle is found also in England. Northamptonshire has a parish of Newbottle, and the county of Durham a township of the same name. The monks of Newbattle have a place in the annals of coal-mining in Scotland, as they were probably the first to dig coal from surface pits before deep shafts began to be sunk." Mark Ker, the last abbot and first commendator ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 486. ^ Cosmo Innes's Legal Antiquities, p. 168. ' Reg. de Neubotle, Pref., p. xiii. THE MONASTERY. 269 of Newbattle, was the ancestor of the present Marquess of Lothian, whose mansion occupies the site of the abbey, and includes some portions of the mediaeval building. In Newbattle parish is a spring appropriately styled Monks' Well. The monastery possessed lands in the district of Mount Lothian, in Penicuik parish, which came to be known in consequence as Monk's Lothian or Monk-Lowden.^ Its church belonged to Holyrood Abbey, but the name of Monk's Lothian was probably due to its Newbattle owner- ship. In the same district we find Monks'-burn, Monks'- haugh, and Monks'-ridge. The last is beside an old track over the Pentland Hills known as the Monks' Road.^ In a Newbattle charter of 1500 reference is made to certain lands at West Binning in Linlithgowshire, then known as Abbotis- land.* Regarding Monkland in Lanarkshire, Mr Robert Ren- wick remarks : " The name Munkland appears so early as 1323 as a designation for a familiar portion of the country- side east of Glasgow, which then and for long afterwards belonged to the monks of Newbattle Abbey."* This dis- trict is represented by the parishes of Old and New Monk- land. The abbey had property in Crawford parish, and part of the parish came in consequence to be called Friar Moor. In old charters the name commonly appears as Fremure, a contraction for Freremure. The monks of Vallis-caulium, who had been settled in 1193 between Dijon and Autun in Burgundy, were intro- duced into Scotland in 1230 by William Malvoisin, Bishop of St Andrews. They had here three priories — viz., Plus- carden in Moray, Beaulieu in Inverness -shire, and Ard- chattan in Argyll, — all founded in or about the year just mentioned. Pluscarden, dedicated to St Andrew conjointly with the Virgin and St John, was styled Vallis Sti. Andrese ; and connected with it was Grangehill, where the monks had a cell.^ The appearance of the priory towards the end of the eighteenth century is thus described by Cordiner : • Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 811. ^ O. S. A., vol. x. p. 420, note. ' Reg. de Neubotle, p. 281. * Glasgow Protocols, vol. ii. ' Pennant's Tour, vol. i. p. 284. 270 THE MONASTERY. " The stately remains of the numerous buildings adjoining to the church stretch down a declivity at the opening of the valley, with a fine exposure to the sun, and protected from the north by a lofty hill. The walls, inclosing a very fertile field and forming an ample square, still mark, with the hoary solemnity of moss-grown ruins, those boundaries, without which none but the dignified clergy had a right to go."^ Beaulieu, otherwise styled Prioratus de Bello-loco, is still remembered in the name of Beauly, and Ardchattan priory survives in the estate of the same name.^ In conclusion, two monasteries should be mentioned which have left their impress on the topography of Edinburgh — viz., the Dominican nunnery of St Catherine of Sienna, and the abbey of Holyrood. Regarding the former, Stark, in his ' Picture of Edinburgh,' remarks : " The monastery founded by Lady St Clair of Roshn, and dedicated to St Catherine of Sienna, stood a little to the south of the east end of the Meadows. A fragment of the wall still remains. At the Reformation the magistrates seized upon the revenue of this convent, and it was with some difficulty that they were compelled to allow the unprotected inmates some part of their own funds for their future maintenance. The narrow lane which led to this religious establishment still retains the name of Sciennes or Sheens." ^ Stark wrote in 1819 ; since then the name Sciennes has been applied to an area wider than the narrow lane referred to. We have a reminder of the dedication of the nunnery in the names of St Catherine's Place and St Catherine's Gar- dens. Spottiswood attributes the foundation of the nunnery to Lady Roslin, and some later writers, including Stark, as quoted above, have evidently followed him ; but the editor of ' Liber Conventus S. Katherine Senensis prope Edin- burgum ' holds that " the charter and papal bull, now printed, show that the convent in question owed its founda- tion to the piety of certain religiously disposed persons in the year 1517, by which time, it may be presumed, her ladyship was in her grave."* Sir Daniel Wilson ascribes ' Remarkable Ruins, vol. i. '^ Keith's Bishops, pp. 427, 428. •■' I'. 96. ■* Pref., p. iii. THE MONASTERY. 27 1 the foundation of the nunnery to Lady Seytoun, widow of George, third Earl of Seytoun, who fell at Flodden, and quotes in confirmation of his view a passage from the 'History of the House of Seytoun' ending thus: " Sche gydit hir sonnis leving quhill he was cumit of age; and thairefter sche passit and remainit in the place of Senis, on the Borrow Mure, besyd Edinburgh, the rest of her lyvetyme. Quhilk place sche helpit to fund and big as maist principale." ^ The abbey of Holyrood — the tradition regarding whose origin is referred to in chap. xiii. — was founded by David I. in 11 28 for canons regular of the Order of St Augustine. The canons appear to have been settled, first within the castle of Edinburgh, but in the year mentioned the building of their abbey on its present site was begun. The editor of ' Liber Cartarum Sancte Crucis ' ^ remarks : " From this time forward the monastery was styled the Abbey of the Holy Cross or Holyrood near Edinburgh, and sometimes the Abbey of Edinburgh ; and by Fordun, Monasterium Sanctse Crucis de Crag, from its situation at the foot of Salisbury Crags." In addition to its structural remains, it has left a trace of itself in the name of the adjacent suburbs of Abbeyhill, in Canonmills on the Water of Leith, and in Canongate, a separate burgh till 1856. Regarding the last. Chambers writes : " The Canongate, which takes its name from the Augustine Canons of Holy- rood (who were permitted to build it by the charter of David L in 1128, and afterwards ruled it as a burgh of regality), was formerly the court end of the town. As the main avenue from the palace into the city, it has borne upon its pavement the burden of all that was beautiful, all that was gallant, all that has become historically interesting in Scotland for the last six or seven hundred years." ^ We find a trace of the Holyrood monks beyond Edin- burgh — viz., in the ancient parish of Bara in East Lothian, now united to Garvald, where the church and its pertinents ^ Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time, p. 417. ' Pref., p. xviii. ' Traditions of Edinburgh, p. 326. 272 THE MONASTERY. were granted to them early in the fourteenth century by Thomas de Morham, and where a road known as the Monks'-gate was formerly a familiar feature in the parish topography.! The abbey had possessions in Airth parish, Stirlingshire, the church and church-lands there having been granted to it by David I.^ Abbeytown bridge in the parish is still a reminder of this ancient monastic ownership. ^ Liber Cartarum Sancte Crucis, pp. 78, 79. ^ Acts of Parliament, vol. i. p. 358. CHAPTER XXI. THE PARISH. Secular element in Celtic Church — Origin of parochial system — Grants of land precede tithes — Manorial churches — Secular and regular clergy — Melrose — Rectorial and vicarial tithes — Parson's Lake, isfc. — Vicar's Croft, i^c. — Bahicar — Curate's Neuk, i^c Collegiate churches — Provost- Mains — College Tards — Rearrangement of parishes — Prest- •uiick — Preston — Prestonpans, i^c. — Priest's -field — Prestonkirk — Priest-meadoiu — Priesthope, £s°f . — Priestside — Priest's -burn — Pres- garth, i^c Clerk's- turn — Clerkston — Clerkington — Ballancleroch, £SJ°f . — Rossinclerach — Knocklearoch — Balsaggart — Cairnhaggard — Altaggart, isfc. — Drumsargart — Loch -an- tagart — Eilean- n-tagart, i^c Clach-an-sagart-ruadh, (3'c. As we have seen, the early Scottish Church was monastic in character. In other words, it was under the rule of a regular, and not of a secular, clergy. If a secular priest- hood existed at all, it must have been, as Mr Warren suggests, " at most an inconsiderable minority." ^ To find the beginnings of an organised secular clergy and a parochial system, we have to look to the century following the marriage of Margaret in logg to Malcolm Canmore, into whose kingdom she introduced many new ideals from England. Professor Cosmo Innes, in tracing the evolution of the parochial system, points out that grants of land preceded tithes. In Earl David's Inquest regarding the ancient possessions of the Church in Cumbria, — referred to in chap, xvi., — lands and churches are mentioned, but no tithes. These last seem to have originated on the intro- ' Liturgy and Ritual of the Celtic Church, p. 12. S 274 THE PARISH. duction of the feudal system into Scotland, when the English settlers, who followed in the wake of Queen Margaret, became possessors of manors, to be held by them as vassals of the Crown. Regarding the new settlers. Professor Innes remarks : " They had found churches on their manors, or, if not already there, had erected them. To each of these manorial churches the lord of the manor now made a grant of the tithes of his estate ; and forthwith the manor tithed to its church became what we now call a parish." i When a large manor was subdivided into several lordships, it was often found advisable that each should have a church of its own. In the twelfth century, Wice gave to the monks of Kelso the church of his manor of Wicestun (Wiston), along with its two chapels — viz., the chapel of the town of Robert, brother of Lambin, and that of the town of John, stepson of Baldwin. A third chapel was afterwards built within the limits of Wice's manor, on the lands of Simon Loccard. In the following century all these chapels attained to an independent status, and from them sprang the present parishes of Roberton, Crawford- john, and Symington.^ The liberality of kings and nobles to the monasteries founded or revived about this time led to a change in the lately -introduced parochial system by subordinating to a large extent the secular to the regular clergy. The lands forming the present parish of Melrose were granted to King David's abbey there, and the cure of souls was exclusively under monastic control. The church of the abbey served as the church of the parish. There were. Professor Innes remarks, " no rector and vicar, at first no landlord and tenant ; and, more remarkable still, no tithes. The monks were proprietors and cultivators, parishioner and parson."' But this was exceptional. When a church was granted to a monastery, the usual arrangement was either that one of the brethren should serve the cure, or that a secular clergy- man should do so at a stipend paid by the monastery to which the church and its tithes had been granted. Tithes ' O. P. S., vol. i., Pref., p. ii. '' Innes's Sketches of Early Scotch History, p. 13. " Ibid. THE PARISH. 275 were of two kinds — rectorial and vicarial, known otherwise as great and small. When a benefice had been transferred to an abbey or a cathedral, its tithes were apportioned in the following way, as described by Professor Innes : " Where the canon law had its course — I mean, where there was no special covenant — the tithes of the parish were simply divided into great and small ; the great tithes, decimce bladi, tithes of all corn going to the rector or to the monastery or cathedral, which was in law the rector; the small tithes, decimce foeni, that is, of hay, of garden produce, and of all other produce — subject to tithe falling to the vicar, to whom also belonged the altar and personal offerings." ^ When a parish church had an independent status, the tithes, both great and small, went to its incumbent, who was known as the rector or parson {persona ecclesia). We find the latter name represented in topography. Thus in Kilmelfort and Kilninver parish, about a mile from the head of Loch Melfort, is a sheet of water styled the Parson's Lake, containing a wooded island, with a ruin on it said to have been the residence of the parson.^ Parson's-pool is in Drumblade parish, Aberdeenshire. Regarding it Mr James Macdonald observes : " Probably Parson's-pool in- dicates that the church had claims on the land in the neighbourhood, though the explanation given in the district is that once on a time a ' parson ' lost his life in one of the pools, which were numerous in the marshes, then extending over a large part of the country around."^ Parsonsgreen is a suburb of Edinburgh near Abbeyhill. The parson of Glasgow had, in 1573, lands "near the Stabill-greene " known as the " Personis-Croft," and other lands " near Stobcors" (Stobcross) styled the " Personis-hauch."* In various parishes we find a piece of ground called Vicar's Croft or Vicar's Acre. The kirklands of Strath- blane parish included Vicarland, a one-merkland near the church. Vicarland is also mentioned in connection with the parish of Cambuslang. Vicar's Lands in Stonehouse parish lay between Stonehouse and the Avon, and were 1 Legal Antiquities, pp. 194, 195. "^ N. S. A., Arg-yll, p. 65. ' Place-Names in Strathbogie, p. 66. * Glasgow Protocols, vol. iv. p. 20, note. 276 THE PARISH. known in modern times as " The Vicars." Hobkirk parish had anciently " Viccarislandis, Viccarishall, and Clerks- bankis," all belonging to the canons of Jedburgh.^ In Strathendrick is the Vicar's Bogend, — " a name which, as Mr Guthrie-Smith observes, does not convey the idea that the poor churchman had a fruitful soil to cultivate."^ In Leuchars parish is Vicarsford farm ; and spanning the Devon, some two miles east of Dollar, is the Vicar's Bridge, recalling Thomas Forrest, vicar of Dollar, who, along with four others, suffered death at the stake on the Castle Hill of Edinburgh in 1538, for having espoused the principles of the Reformation. The church of St John — the parish church of Perth — was under the charge of a vicar appointed by the chapter of Dunfermline Abbey. We find a reminiscence of the fact in the name of Vicar Knoll, in the grounds of Friartown. Among Gaelic forms are Balvicar in Seil island, and Bailie- Vicar in Kildalton parish, Islay, both signifying the Dwell- ing of the Vicar. Curates were not so common in pre- Reformation as in post-Reformation times ; and such names as Curate's Neuk in Kirkcolm parish; Curate's Well, a spring in Dunsyre parish ; and Curate's Steps, a small pass beside the river Ayr, in Sorn parish, — are in all probability to be attributed to the days of seventeenth - century Prelacy.^ After the zeal for monasticism had largely abated in Scotland, particularly during the century and a half before the Reformation, considerable interest was shown in the formation of collegiate churches, which were in reality, as Professor Cosmo Innes points out, "little cathedrals, for they imitated the service and constitution of cathedrals, only on a smaller scale."* Dr David Laing remarks: "These collegiate churches, called Prseposituras, were instituted for secular priests or canons, and for choristers, and were under the jurisdiction of a dean or provost. Each of these churches consisted of a certain number of prebendaries or canons where they had their several stalls, and with their dean or provost made up the chapter. Most of these establishments, ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 352. a Strathendrick, p. 22. " N. S. A., Ayr, p. 144. * Legal Antiquities, p. 201. THE PARISH. 277 there is reason to believe, had existed as chapels or parish churches long before they were thus enlarged and endowed by the great landed proprietors in the neighbourhood."^ At the Reformation there were about thirty-eight of these col- legiate churches, eight of them being in Mid-Lothian. The parish church of Methven, in Perthshire, which had been dedicated in 1247 by Bishop David de Bernham, was made collegiate in 1433 by Walter Stewart, Earl of Atholl, for a provost and five prebendaries. Even in post- Reformation times the ministers of Methven were called provosts, and re- tained the name till the Revolution in 1688.^ About the year 1450 the priory of Abernethy, in the same county, was erected into a collegiate church by George Douglas, fourth Earl of Angus, for a provost and six prebendaries. The former is remembered in the name of his home farm, which is still known as Provost-Mains, forming part of the lands of Cordon.^ Provost- Haugh, at Glasgow, named in a statute by the Town Council of igth April 1589,* might suggest the Provost of the Collegiate Church of St Mary and St Anne, known as Our Lady College ; ^ but there is reason to believe that it recalls not an ecclesiastical provost, but a provost of the burgh. At Brechin are gardens known as the College Yards, containing a spring of excellent water styled the College Well. A College Wynd is also found in the burgh. There was no collegiate church at Brechin, and these names are said to point to the Culdee monastery which, according to local tradition, once stood in the College Yards, and was supplied with water from the College Well.* In connection with the rearrangement of parishes after the Reformation, certain changes were made in their names in- volving the loss of ecclesiastical associations. Thus the two ancient Kintyre parishes of Kilcholmkill and Kilblane, and the four of Kilkivan, Kilmichael, Kilkerran, and Kilchous- land, — all bearing witness to early Christian dedications, — 1 Charters of Collegiate Churches in Mid-Lothian, Pref., p. iii. 2 Morris's The Provostry of Methven, pp. i, 2. 2 Rev. D. Butler's History of Abernethy, p. 275. * Glasgow Protocols, vol. x., No. 3276, note. ' MacGeorge's Old Glasgow, p. 137. * Black's History of Brechin, p. 2. 2;8 THE PARISH. are now known as Southend and Campbeltown respectively. In like manner the ancient Forfarshire parishes of St Skeoch or Dunninald, and Inchbrayock or Craig, have been known, since their union in 1618, simply as Craig. The Dumfries- shire parish of St Mungo is an exception to this rule. Prior to the Reformation it was known first as Abermelc and later as Castlemelc. Though its church was then dedicated to St Mungo, his name did not dominate the parish till post- Reformation times.-' Prestwick, in Ayrshire, as indicated in chap, xxix., signifies the Priest's Dwelling. In connection with the history of the name Chalmers remarks : " The old parishes of Monktown and Prestwick existed in the twelfth century, and were then called Prestwic and Prestwicburgh. The church of Prestwic was dedicated to the Saxon saint, Cuth- bert, and the church of Prestwicburgh to St Nicholas. Both those parishes and the patronage of the churches belonged to Walter, the son of Alan, the first of the Stewarts, who was lord of all the northern half of Kyle. In the beginning of the reign of William the Lion, Walter granted to the monastery which he had founded at Paisley the church of Prestwic, with the lands which formed the manor of Prest- wic ; and he also granted to the same monastery the church of Prestwicburgh, with its pertinents. In 1227 Walter, the Bishop of Glasgow, made an ordinance respecting all the churches belonging to the monks of Paisley within his diocese, whereby it was settled that the vicar of the church of St Cuthbert of Prestwic should have, in the name of vicarage, six chalders of meal, yearly, with the altarages; and the monks were allowed to hold the church of St Nicholas of Prestwicburgh solely to their own use — they finding a chaplain to serve the cure." In virtue of the monks' ownership of Prestwick, the name, as we saw in chap, xviii., was changed to Monktown. What followed is thus described by Chalmers : " After this change of the name of Prestwic to Monktoun, the other parish of Prestwic- burgh was called simply Prestwic, the adjunct being no longer necessary to distinguish it from the adjoining parish. ' Caledonia, vol. iii. pp. 187, i88. THE PARISH. 279 The monks of Paisley continued to hold the two parishes of Monktoun and Prestwic till the Reformation." ^ Preston — i.e., the Priest's Town or Dwelling — is repre- sented in England by some thirty-six examples, one of the most suggestive of these being Preston-upon-the-Wild-Moors, a Shropshire parish. Though Scotland has not nearly so many, its Lowland districts furnish several instances. Thus we have the parish of Prestonpans in East Lothian, com- prising the two ancient baronies of Preston and Preston- Grange, known at one time as the East and West baronies. Preston-Grange, as we have seen, was a farm belonging to the monks of Newbattle, who busied themselves with the manufacture of salt at the pans beside the sea. The lands of Preston in Cranston parish, Mid-Lothian, were, along with the church of Cranston, granted by the Riddels to the abbey of Kelso, which continued to be rector of the church till 1317.^ The ancient name survives in the village of Preston and in the estate of Prestonhall, through whose park flows the Tyne, still only a small stream. There is another Prestonhall in Cupar parish, Fife. Colvend parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, has a Preston ; and we must not forget the ancient Berwickshire parish of Preston, now united to Bunkle, whose church seems to have been unattached to any monastery, and whose priest would therefore enjoy full parochial rights.^ On the farm of Garnaburn, in Colmonell parish, are the lands of Prieston, where a stone resembling a font was found in 1875, but was removed two years later to the grounds of Bargany House. Jervise remarks : " Prieston, a farm about a mile west from Tealing church, is probably Priest's Croft, which was granted, along with the kirk of Tealing, to St Andrews Priory by Hugh Gifford and his son, then lords of Tealing — a grant confirmed by William the Lion." * Preston in Kilbarchan parish was evidently the Home of the Priest, connected with " Our Lady Chapel in Ranfurlye," not far off.^ In Linlithgow parish is the estate of Preston, about a mile to the south of the burgh. The church of Linlithgow and its possessions, both within and ^ Caledonia, vol. iii. pp. 505, 506. " Ibid., vol. ii. p. 817. 3 Ibid., vol. ii. p. 374. " Epitaphs, vol. ii. pp. 371, 372. ° Mackenzie's Kilbarchan, p. 260. 28o THE PARISH. without the burgh, were granted by David I. to the priory of St Andrews/ which thereafter became the rector of the parish, the cure being served by a vicar. It is not, however, clear whether it was the vicar or the priest officiating in St Ninian's chapel at the Westport that had his dwelling at Preston. In Kirkbean parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, is a decayed hamlet known as Preston or Preston-Mill. It was once a burgh of regality, with four annual fairs ; but its cross is now the sole reminder of its former privileges.^ The lands of Prestonfield, now in Duddingston parish, were till 1630 in the Edinburgh parish of St Cuthbert's. A piece of ground at Cullen in Banffshire, known as Priest's-field, is mentioned in a charter of 1583.^ The parish church of Cullen was made collegiate in 1543 by Sir Alexander Ogilvie of Desk- ford, whose effigy is still to be seen in a recess within the building. The lands of Priestfield, in the barony of Bowden in Roxburghshire, were held of the abbey of Kelso, and in 1327 were " bound to provide a man-at-arms, who should be the captain of thirty archers found by the barony."* Holm, a meadow by a river, appears in Preistisholme (Priest's-holm) in Lesmahagow parish, mentioned in a charter of 1593, and in Preston-Holm, a village in Cockpen parish close to the South Esk. Till 1296 the church of Cockpen was a rectory, but some time after it appears to have been handed over to the monks of Newbattle, to whom the lands of the parish were granted by the Ramsays of Dalhousie.^ Priest's Meadow is the name of a piece of ground about three miles from the village of Tarves in Aberdeenshire." The Haddingtonshire parish, now known as Prestonkirk, was before the Reformation styled Linton or Hauch, — the latter referring to the flat land beside the Tyne, — and after the Reformation Preston-haugh, and later Prestonkirk. The living was a rectory ; and Gavin Douglas, who translated Virgil's '^neid,' was parson before his appointment to be Bishop of Dunkeld in 1515. In 1229 ' Liber Cartarum Piioratus Sti. Andree, p. 57. ^ Lewis's Scotland, vol. ii. p. 392. ' R. M. S. * Liber de Calchou, Pref., p. xl. o Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 815. ' Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 355. THE PARISH. 281 Alexander II. granted to the recently- founded abbey of Balmerino the whole of what is now the parish of Barry in Forfarshire, with the exception of its church and thirteen acres pireviously conveyed to the monks of Arbroath by WiUiam the Lion. In 1532 John Auchinleck obtained from Balmerino Abbey a charter of certain lands at Barry, including Priest-meadow.^ In a charter of 1588 Preistis medow (Priest's Meadow) is named as situated near Tor- wood in Stirlingshire ; and in another, two years earlier, we read of a Prestis-medo (Priest's Meadow) on the banks of the Tay in the barony of Dunkeld.^ Priesthope — i.e., the Valley of the Priest — is a glen run- ning into the south face of Windlestrae Law in Innerleithen parish, Peeblesshire. Priestlaw — i.e., the Hill of the Priest — in Whittinghame parish, East Lothian, is an eminence showing traces of ancient fortifications. The same may be said of Priestinch Hill in Abercorn parish. West Lothian, which is, or was, " surrounded on three sides by a green bog called the Priestinch."^ In a charter of 1512 a Priest- hope is mentioned in the lordship of Ettrick Forest ; and in another charter, four years earlier, reference is made to the lands of Priest's-Gill — i.e., the Ravine of the Priest — in the barony of Avondale in Lanarkshire.* Priest's-Hill — in Gaelic, Cnoc-an-tagairt — in Kilmuir - Easter parish, Ross-shire, is close to the site of a chapel dedicated to the Virgin, removed towards the end of the eighteenth century ; and in Muirkirk parish, Ayrshire, is Priesthill, a farm well known in Covenanting annals in connection with the tragic death of its occupier, John Brown. The district in Liddes- dale of which Castletown is the centre had at one time three churches and three chapels. It is not surprising, therefore, to find there a Priestheugh— ?.e., the Height of the Priest. In Glenesk, in Forfarshire, is a precipitous hill known as Priest's Craig — i.e., the Rock of the Priest. In Eckford parish, Roxburghshire, some land belonging to the vicar of the parish at the time of the Reformation was styled Priest's Crown. The name continued in modern times to be given to a field on the farm of Eastmains, where in ' Campbell's Balmerino Abbey, pp. 117, 613. " R. M. S. ' N. S. A., Linlithgow, p. 18. * R. M. S. (1424-1513), pp. 697, 808. 282 THE PARISH. 1831 a Stone coffin was dug up " containing a few decayed bones in one corner, and a small jar with some black dust in it in the other." ^ At Caverton, in the same parish, once stood a chapel, whose cemetery was in use till the end of the eighteenth century. In its immediate neighbourhood was a spring known as Holy Well or Priest's Well.^ Priest's Den and Priest's Well, in Cargill parish, Perthshire, though not close to the present church, are near the spot where probably stood the original church which, at an early date, was granted to the abbey of Cupar.^ In Cummertrees parish, Dumfries, is Priestside. Connected with it is a local tradition regarding Bruce, which is thus narrated in the ' N. S. A.' : * " When Bruce was on the shore, at a place called Priestside, being weary and exhausted by hunger and fatigue, a farmer's wife fed him with bread and eggs, but without salt. On learning that the people along the Priest- side were not allowed to make salt, Bruce, with his usual generosity, immediately granted to the people in that quarter a charter to make salt, duty free. Several years before the salt duty was removed, the Excise tried the validity of the Priestside, or rather Annandale, Salt Charter at Edinburgh, when, after much litigation, it was found to be good and sufficient ; but that it was granted according to the circumstances handed down by tradition, cannot be clearly proved." Priestside was formerly known as Priest- woodside. There, according to a report long current, the sculptured cross, now at Ruthwell, was anciently set up until it was removed either by angels, according to one tradition, or, according to a more probable story, by a team of oxen.^ The stream flowing into the Loch of Lindores, in Fife, is named the Priest's-burn. It rises in a moss about half a mile from the loch, and is said never to freeze, and never to become dry even in the hottest weather.^ Priest's Water, in Gartly parish, Aberdeenshire, which, after its union with Lag Burn, flows into the Bogie, is believed to have derived its name from the priest who officiated in the pre-Reforma- ' N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 227. 2 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 397. ' Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. p. no. * Dumfries, p. 248. » P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxi. p. 196. « N. S. A., Fife, p. 49. THE PARISH. 283 tion chapel at Tillythrowie in the same parish. The chapel was probably dedicated to St Finan, as there is a well in its neighbourhood named after him.^ Presgarth, in Shetland, means the Enclosure of the Priest ; and Persebus, in Islay, according to Captain Thomas, is a metathesis for Presabus, the fuller form being Prestabolstadr — i.e., the Homestead of the Priest, reminding one of Presthus in Iceland.^ There is, or was, a Prestrebrig (Prestrebridge) in Sprouston parish. Near it were two bovates of land granted in 11 59 by Malcolm IV. to the monks of Kelso in exchange for other two bovates connected with the church of St Laurence at Berwick, conveyed by them to the king.^ Near the ruined church of the ancient parish of Kirkbride in Ayrshire, now united to Maybole, is a field styled the Priest's Land. Darvel, in Loudon parish, had another Priestland. The church of Loudon was granted at an early date to Kil- winning Abbey, probably by its founder, Hugh de Morville, and the cure was served by a chaplain appointed by the monastery.* In Troqueer parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, the living was a vicarage, the church having been granted to the abbey of Tongueland. The priest who served the cure is still remembered in the name of Priestlands in the parish. Clerk (Lat. clericus) formerly signified a clergyman or priest. In this sense we find it in such names as Clarkis- burne (Clerk's-burn) in Oxnam parish, Roxburghshire ; Clerksburn in Glasserton parish, Wigtownshire ; Clerks- bankis (Clerk's-banks) in Hobkirk parish, Roxburghshire ; and probably Clarkston or Clerkston, in Cathcart parish, Renfrewshire ; and Clarkston in New Monkland parish, Lanarkshire. We find Clerkington, an estate in Had- dington parish, and Clerkington, an ancient parish in Mid- Lothian now forming part of Temple. Chalmers says : " During the twelfth century the name of Clerkington in Mid-Lothian, as well as Clerkington in East Lothian, was written Clerchetun, which is obviously the Anglo-Saxon clerc, a clerk, a churchman with the annex tun, a habita- ^ Macdonald's Place-Names in Strathbogie, pp. 97-99. ^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvi. p. 257. ^ Lib. de Calchou, p. 299. * Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 554. 284 THE PARISH. tion." Regarding Clerkington in Mid-Lothian, Clialmers adds: "David II. granted the manor of Clerkington to Walter Bisset; and he transferred the church, with its tithes and pertinents, to the monks of Newbotle ; granting them, at the same time, an annual rent of five marks from the manor. The monks enjoyed the parsonage, while the cure was served by a vicar ; and this regimen continued till the Reformation annulled it. At that event, the patronage of the church, with the annual rent of five marks from the mill of Clerkington, were enjoyed by Mark Ker, the com- mendator of Newbotle, who transmitted the whole to his descendants, and, acquiring the temporal estate, they changed the name of Clerkington to New-Ancrum."^ The Latin clericus was adopted by the Gael, with the result that our topography shows names like Ballancleroch in Stirlingshire, and Balclerache near Aberdour, in Fife, the Dwelling of the Cleric, Mollenaclerich, in Balfron parish, the Mill of the Cleric ; and Dhalachlirich, in Strathdon parish, the Field of the Cleric. Sir Herbert Maxwell gives the following examples : " Barneycleary, barr-na-clerech, hill of the clergy. Clary, and Portaclearys in Wigtownshire, Leffincleary in South Ayrshire — leth pheighinn (ley flinn) clereich, parson's halfpenny-land, and Auchencleiry, the parson's field." ^ Sir Herbert also mentions Clary Park, a field on the farm of Prestrie — i.e., Priestery — in Whithorn parish.^ Dr Alexander Macbain gives two Gaelic forms borrowed from Latin — viz., cleir, the clergy, from clenis, and cleireach, a cleric, from clericus. Clary and Portaclearj-s just mentioned are evidently connected with the former.* The ancient parish of Rossie in the Carse of Gowrie, now united to Inchture, was at one time known as Rossinclerach. The place was an ancient Columban abbacy, whose tradi- tions were kept alive in the dedication of its church to St Coman conjointly with St Laurence.'"' Knocklearoch, in Islay, stands for Cnoc-Cleireach — i.e., the Hill of the Clerics. The following tradition regarding 1 Caledonia, vol. ii. pp. 811, 812. '^ Scottish Land-Names, p. 177. » Gall. Top., s.v. "Clary Park." < Gaelic Dictionary, s.v. "Cleir and Cleireach." " Reg. Prior. S. Andree, p. 348. THE PARISH. 285 the locality, as told by Mr Hector MacLean of Ballygrant, Islay, is cited by Captain Thomas : " There is a tradition that two clerics were hanged, and that the day on which they were hanged was remarkably stormy. So it has been a byword in Islay ever since I remember, when a cold stormy day came on, ' This day is worse than the day on which the clerics were hanged.' At Knocklearoch are two monoliths called Na Cleirich, ' The Clerics,' and under these, tradition relates, the two clerics were buried." ^ The Latin sacerdos, a priest, was also adopted by the Gael. It appears in Gaelic as sagart. In topography, however, the word has assumed different forms. Thus Balsaggart in Kirkmichael parish, Ayrshire, and Balhagarty in Garvock parish, Kincardineshire, are both the Dwelling of the Priest. Cairnhaggard in Stoneykirk parish, Wigtownshire, and Carntaggart in Aberdeenshire, signify the Priests' Cairn ; and Knocktaggart in Kirkmabreck parish, and Cnoc-t- sagairt in Kirkmaiden parish, are the Priests' Hill. Re- garding the two latter. Sir Herbert Maxwell remarks: "In each case this name occurs close to the site of an old church — viz., Old Kirkmabreck and Chapelrossan respec- tively."^ Altaggart in New Luce parish, and Auld Taggart in Inch parish, denote the Stream or Glen of the Priest, the Gaelic allt having both meanings. In Douglas parish are the lands of Glentaggart — i.e., the Priest's Glen, where, in connection with a building believed to have been a chapel, a stone font was discovered many years ago.^ Multaggart in Kirkmabreck parish, and Mulan an-'t-sagairt in Buchanan parish, are each the Hill of the Priest, — both embodying Gaelic meall, a lump or hill. Drumsargart, where the r seems intrusive, is probably the Ridge of the Priest, from Gaelic druim, a back or ridge. It was at one time the alternative name of Cambuslang parish, Lanark- shire, the parish having been formed from the ancient barony of Drumsargart. The church was a free parsonage, and the lord of the manor was its patron. William, parson of Drumsirgar, witnessed two charters of Bishop Joceline of Glasgow at the end of the twelfth century. In 1429 1 P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvi. p. 267. ^ Gall. Top. ^ N. S. A., Lanark, p. 494. 286 THE PARISH. Bishop Cameron of Glasgow erected the parsonage into a prebend of his cathedral.^ The land belonging to the parish church of Migvie, in Aberdeenshire, was known as Petten- tagart ("terra ecclesise de Migvseth vocat. pettengart).^ The name signifies Portion of the Priest. Pit (Old Gaelic pet, pett) is found in Pictish districts, and, as occurring in topography, is interpreted by Dr Macbain as farm or por- tion.^ In Modern Gaelic pit denotes a hollow. Loch-an- tagart, in Applecross parish, is the Priest's Loch, and Eilean-'n-tagart, in Loch Awe, is the Priest's Isle, with some remains of a house believed to have been the residence of the priest.* On the neighbouring Inisherrich are the ruins of the chapel where the priest doubtless officiated. Its cemetery was in use long after the building was deserted. A chapel once stood at Kirkboll or Kirkiboll in Tongue parish, Sutherland, about half a mile from where the parish church of Tongue was built in 1680. A portion of the glebe is known as Eilean-tigh-an-t-sagairt — i.e., the Island of the Priest's House. At Skail, in the neighbouring parish of Farr, on some level ground between the river Naver and the hill known as Cnoc-an-t-sagairt, or the Priest's Hill, once stood a chapel with a cemetery. Close to it is a piece of ground believed to have been the glebe land of the chapel, and locally known as Dalacsary, which, Cosmo Innes sug- gests, is perhaps an altered form of Dal-an-t-sagairt — i.e., the Priest's Field. At the east end of the cemetery stands a cross-marked stone said to indicate the grave of the last pre-Reformation incumbent of Farr, or of Durness, the ad- joining parish, who was known as the red priest, and was credited with the power of working miracles. At Balnakiel, in Durness parish, is a hollow stone known as Clach-an- sagart-ruadh — i.e., the Stone of the Red Priest.^ On the north bank of the Tay, about two miles above Dunkeld, is a large stone called in the district Clach-an-t- sagairt. There appears to be no tradition about the iden- tity of the priest ; but one is not inclined to agree with Colonel Robertson when he says, regarding the name, " It ' O. P. S., vol. i. pp. 60, 61. 2 Reg. Prior. S. Andree, Pref., p. xxi. ' Gaelic Diet., s.v. " Pit." * O. S. A., vol. vi. p. 267. » O. P. S., vol. ii. pp. 702, 708. THE PARISH. 287 clearly belongs to heathen times." ^ At Dunfallandy is an ancient cross slab bearing various symbols, and known as the Priest's Stone. When Dr John Stuart described the slab in 1856 it stood in a ruined chapel " near Killiecrankie, in a wood on the west bank of the river Garry, and has since been erected behind Dunfallandy Cottage, about 100 yards from the road which runs along the west bank of the river Tummel below Pitlochry."^ In Kirkmichael parish, Banffshire, is a block of stone styled Clach-ant-shagairt, which is said to have been connected with a sixteenth- century tragedy. The tradition regarding it is thus nar- rated by the writer of the parish article in the ' O. S. A.' :* " In the year 1575 a priest who had refused to marry the uncle to the niece was seized by the ruffian and his party, laid upon a faggot, bound to a stone, and in this manner burnt to death. The remembrance of this atrocious deed is still preserved in the stone." At Balquhidder, in Perth- shire, is a hollow block of stone locally styled Basan an sagairt, or the Priest's Basin. Mr J. Mackintosh Gow gives its dimensions as about eight feet long by five feet broad at the broadest part, and about two feet above ground. It lies just inside the road dyke ; and Mr Gow thinks that when the present road and dyke were made, the name of the stone must have saved it from destruction.* 1 Gaelic Top. of Scotland, p. 270. '^ Early Sculptured Monuments of Scotland, Part III., pp. 286, 287, 2 Vol. xii. p. 442. ■* P. S. A. Scot, vol. xxi. p. 84. CHAPTER XXII. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. Early missionaries — Elachnave — Island-na-Nuagh — Eilean-na-Naomh — Holy Island — Shiant and Flannan Isles — Enhallonv — Barray — Taransay — Colonsay — Oransay — Inchcolm, i^fe — lona — Damsay — Elanmunde — Eilean Donan — Elan Finan — Eilean More — Rona — St Ninian's Isle — Ronaldshay — St Olla's Isle — St Kilda — Innis-Maree — St Mary's Isle — St Serf's Island — St Margaret's Inch — Meanings of Inch — Inchmichael — Inchmartin — Inchaffray — St Machar's Inch — Inchhrayock — Inchinnan — Inch Kenneth — Inchmarnock — Inchmahome — Inch-Aidan — Inchmurrin — Inchcailleach — Inch-ta-Vannoch. As we have already seen, most of our early missionaries came from Ireland ; and the Western Isles formed tempting halting -places where a hermit's cell could be built or a church founded as the centre of a, monastic community. In the channel between Mull and the coast of Lome is the Garveloch group. One of these is Elachnave,^ where St Columba founded a monastery and placed his uncle, St Ernan, at its head. There are still to be seen the ruined buildings of the monastic establishment, consisting of oratory, beehive cells, kiln, &c., all of stone without lime. Elach- nave is called by Fordun " insula sanctorum " — i.e., the Isle of Saints, and, according to Bishop Reeves, is now known to the Gaelic- speaking people of the neighbourhood as Eileann-na-Naoimh, with the same meaning. Professor Mackinnon explains the name differently. He holds that Elach is not eilean, an island, but ailcach, a stone structure, and thinks that the reference is to the cells of the saints ' Bishop Reeves visited the island in 1852 along with Cosmo Innes and W. F. Skene, and gives an account of its remains in Adamnan's 'Vita Sancti Columbie,' pp. 323, 324. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 289 who dwelt on the island.^ Island Nave, otherwise Eilean Nave, lying about a mile to the west of Islay, with a ruined church and an ancient burying - ground, is regarded by Captain Thomas as equivalent to Eilean-na-Naoimh — i.e., the Isle of Saints.^ The same meaning attaches to Island- na-Nuagh, near Applecross, and to Eilean-na-Naomh, off the Kyle of Tongue, in Sutherland, — the latter being also known as Ealan-na-Coomb (St Columba's Island). It has traces of a chapel and burying-ground.* Holy Island, close to Lamlash in Arran, derived its sacred character from its connection with St Molios, and was hence styled by the Norsemen Melansay — i.e., St Molios's Island. Dean Monro, circa 1594, speaks of "ane little ile callit the yle of Molass, quherin there was foundit by Johne, Lord of the iles, ane monastry of friars, which is decayit."* In the Minch, between Skye and Lewis, are the Shiant — i.e.. Holy — Isles, the group having derived their name from Eilean Mhuire, where, in Martin's time, stood a chapel to the Virgin. Some fifteen miles to the west of Lewis is a group of seven islands known as the Flannan or Holy Isles. On the largest of them are the remains of a chapel to St Flannan, patron of Killaloe in Ireland. Martin mentions that this chapel was held in much reverence by fowlers in the Lewis, who went once a-year to catch the sea-birds on the island.^ Enhallow, in Orkney, is Eyin-helga — i.e., the Holy Isle. Miinch says that it was so called "rather from the general traditions respecting the sanctity of the soil than from any particular building or institution of a sacred character." He adds : " Rats and mice, it is asserted, will not live there ; and if corn is cut after sunset, blood flows from the straw." ^ Coming to particular saints, we find the name of St Barr or Finbar, patron of Cork, represented in Barray in the Outer Hebrides — i.e., St Barr's Island — the last syllable being the Norse -ey or -ay, an island. The saint is much venerated in Barray. His festival — the 25th of September ' Scotsman, Article No. ix. ^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvi. p. 264. ' O. S. A., vol. iii. p. 521. * Description of Western Isles, p. 15. ° Western Isles, pp. 16, 17. ' M^moires de la Soc. Roy. des Antiq. du Nord (1845-49), p. 243. T 290 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. —was kept as a holiday, being devoted to horse-racing, with feasting in the evening.' In Martin's time a wooden image of the saint, clothed in a linen shirt, stood on the altar of the church at Kilbar. Martin says : " I came very early in the Morning with an intention to see this Image, but was disappointed ; for the Natives pre- vented me, by carrying it away, lest I might take occasion to ridicule their Superstition ; and when I was gone, it was again expos'd on the Altar." ^ The island at the mouth of Campbeltown Bay, Argyllshire, now known as Davar or Devar, was anciently called St Barr's Island.^ Taransay, off Harris, is regarded by Forbes as the island either of Ethernan, a bishop in Buchan, who is believed to have died about 669, or of Talaricanus, who was patron of Fordyce, where he left his name in St Tarkin's Well.* With more probability, however, Taransay recalls Ternan, otherwise Terrananus, a disciple of Palladius in the fifth cen- tury. Regarding the island Martin says : " It has two chapels, one dedicated to St Tarran, the other to St Keith. There is an antient Tradition among the Natives here, that a Man must not be bury'd in St Tarran's, nor a Woman in St Keith's, because otherwise the Corps would be found above-ground the day after it is interred."^ Colonsay, anciently Colosus, and Oransay, anciently Orisoi, have, as Reeves points out, etymologically nothing to do with St Columba and St Oran respectively. These two saints seem at first sight to be at cross purposes, for there is a Killoran in Colonsay; and in Oransay stood a priory believed to have been founded by Columba. ° The etymology of Colon- say is uncertain ; but Captain Thomas is probably correct when he equates Oransay with Orfiris-ey, the Island with the Ebbing. He says : "There are at least four islands in the Outer Hebrides, and two in Skye, bearing the name Oransay, Ornsay. In every case that I know of, they are ' O. S. A., vol. xiii. p. 326. 2 Western Isles, p. 92. ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 12. Barr, in Ayrshire, has probably nothing- to do with the saint, being evidently the Gaelic barr, top or ridge. Dunbar is the Fort on the Ridge. * Kal. " Western Isles, p. 49. « O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 281. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 291 connected at low water by a reef to another island. The real name is Orfirisey; from Or-fjara (Icelandic), an out- going, ebbing. Or-firis-ey is the proper name for islands which at low water are joined to the mainland by a reef which is covered at high water." ^ One naturally expects to find St Columba's name associ- ated with islands, and one is not disappointed. Dr Joseph Anderson remarks : " Inchcolm is the only island on the east coast of Scotland which derives its distinctive designa- tion from St Columba. But more than one island on our western shores bears his name ; as, for example, St Colm's Isle in Loch Erisort and St Colm's Isle in the Minch in Lewis ; the island of Columcille, at the head of Loch Arkeg in Inverness-shire ; Eilean Colum, in the parish of Tongue in Sutherlandshire ; Eilan Columcille, in Portree Bay; and Inch Columcille, in Loch Columcille in Skye ; and above all, Icolumcille or lona itself. His presence in person at each of these localities is not necessarily implied in these commemorations, but in all the cases mentioned there were ecclesiastical foundations dedicated to his memory."^ On Inchcolm are the ruins of a monastery founded by King Alexander I., who was storm-stayed on the Island for three days in 1123, and spent the time with a hermit who devoted himself to the service of St Columba, and lived in an oratory, the remains of which are still visible. Sir J. Y. Simpson, who gives a detailed account of this oratory, thinks that it is of a considerably earlier date than Alexander's reign.' No island along our coasts has been so famous as lona, the Lindisfarne of Scotland. Inis-nan-Druineach, applied to lona, is commonly supposed to mean the Isle of Druids ; but Cosmo Innes interprets the name as "the isle of the artizans or workmen, a term which seems well applied to the monks of Columba." * An early form of its name was I,^ to which Choluimchille — i.e., Columba of the Church — was ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. iv. p. 246. * Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. i. p. 69, note. ^ P. S. A. Scot., vol. ii. pp. 487-528. ■* O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 297, note. ' There are several variants of I— e.g., Y, Hi, Hit, Hy, la, lo, &c. Reeves points out that Adamnan gave to the name of the island a feminine 292 LANDSCAPE FEATURES, added. Bishop Reeves says that in "vernacular use Ee- choluim-chille has, from time immemorial, been the only recognised name of the island among the Gaelic popula- tion." ^ Chambers remarks: "The inhabitants of lona entertain a belief that the desolate shrine of St Columba shall yet be restored to its primitive glory and sanctity; and, in support of their belief, quote no less credible au- thority than that of Columba himself : — ' In lona of my heart, lona of my love, Instead of the voice of Monks shall be lowing of cattle ; But ere the world come to an end lona shall be as it was.' Implying, says Paterson, author of the ' Legend of lona,' that the island, after ages of ruin and neglect, shall again be the retreat of piety and learning." Chambers adds: " Another prophecy, still more flattering to lona than the above, affirms that ' seven years before the end of the world, the sea, at one tide, shall cover the Western Islands and the green-headed Isla, while the island of Columba shall swim,' or continue afloat." ^ Columba's biographer, St Adamnan, ninth Abbot of lona, who died in 704, has his name preserved in Damsay, other- wise Daminsey — i.e., Adamnan's Island — in the Bay of Firth, Orkney. St Finten, otherwise Munna or Mund, was reverenced in the West of Scotland. Elanmunde, in Loch Leven, is called after him. It gave name to an ancient parish, now included in Lismore and Appin. There are still some remains of the church, and its burying-ground continues to be used. It consists of " two knolls, one of which is appropriated to Glencoe, and the other to Lochaber." ^ St Donan of Eigg, who suffered martyrdom in 617, was a friend of Columba, and came from Ireland to settle among the Western Isles. He has left his name in Eilean Donan, adjectival termination, and made it loua, agreeing^ with Insula, and that, by a mistake of « for 71, made at a later date, loua became lona. — Adamnan, Introd. , pp. cxxviii-cxxx. ' Adamnan, Introd., p. cxxx. '' The Popular Rhymes of Scotland, pp. 88-90. 3 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 171. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 293 at the head of Lochalsh, where that loch forks into Lochs Long and Duich. The island contains the picturesque ruins of a once strong castle, famous in mediaeval history. The ancient parish of Elan Finan, now part of Ardna- murchan, was called after an island of the same name dedicated to St Finan, an Irishman of Ard-Fionain in Munster, who died circa 575. The remains of the old parish church, with its burying- ground, are on the island. St Finan's bronze bell lies on one of the tombstones, and when a funeral takes place the bell is rung before the procession from the landing-place to the grave. ^ Eilean More {i.e., the Great Island) in the Sound of Jura was known also as St Cormac's Island, from a chapel on it dedicated to that saint, a friend and fellow-countryman of Columba, who was noted for his voyages among the Hebrides and the Orkneys, and died about 640. An oblong building on the island, a few paces from the chapel, is pointed out as his tomb. According to the 'N. S. A.,^ the saint is said to resent with the most summary vengeance any indignity offered to this monument." The ancient chapel, consisting of chancel and nave, is still in fair preservation, and contains a stone coffin, which for centuries was the receptacle of offerings by pilgrims to the island. Even till the beginning of last century, " not a stranger set foot on the island who did not conciliate the favour of the saint, by dropping a small coin into a chink between the lid of the coffin and its side." ^ When Martin visited Islay, he found traces of the saint's cultus there. He tells us that a poor woman, to whom he had given an alms, prayed that the blessing of Mac Charmig, the patron saint of the island, might follow him. St Ronan, who died in 736, has left his name in Rona — i.e., St Ronan's Isle. There are three examples — viz., Rona, off Skye ; Rona, off North Uist ; and Rona, thirty- eight miles north-east from the Butt of Lewis — the last having the ruins of St Ronan's chapel. Dean Monro says : " Within this ile there is ane chapell, callit St Ronay's chapell, unto quhilk chapell, as the ancients of the country ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, p. 198, note. ^ Argyll, p. 263. ^ N. S. A., Argyll, p. 262. For a description of the chapel, vide Muir's ' Eccles. Notes,' pp. 19, 20. 294 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. alledges, they leave an spaid and ane shuil, quhen any man dies, and upon the morrow findes the place of the grave markit with an spaid, as they alledge."^ According to a local legend, St Ronan crossed from Lewis to Rona on the back of a whale, and found the island occupied by strange creatures like dogs, which, on the saint's approach, fled into the sea and were drowned.^ Hibbert, in his work on Shetland, says that on "the peninsulated eminence of St Ronan's, the foundations appear of an old chapel dedicated to St Ninian, commonly named Ronan, from the Irish appellation given to the saint of Ringan."^ Ronan, however, had no connection with the place. The peninsula, which is sometimes sur- rounded by the sea, is usually known as St Ninian's, other- wise St Ringan's, Isle. Martin says: "To the North- West of the Ness Hes St Ninian's Isle ; it has a Chappel and an Altar in it, upon which some of the Inhabitants retain the antient superstitious Custom of burning Candle." * This was about the year 1695. In Low's time — viz., in 1774 — the lower storey of the ruined chapel was vaulted, and probably served as a burying-place ; ' but when Muir visited the spot, about ninety years later, the chapel had disappeared.* In 1876 a stone about 2^ feet long and io}4 inches broad, bearing Ogham characters, was discovered near the site of the chapel by Mr Gilbert Goudie, who presented it to the Museum of National Antiquities at Edinburgh.' We do not know whether St Ninian was ever in Shetland, but he is said to have visited Orkney, where we find a trace of him in North Ronaldshay styled in the sagas Rinansey — i.e., St Ringan's Isle. The name assumed its present form by way of assimilation to South Ronaldshay, which is not Ringan's Isle but Ronald's Isle, called after Earl Rognvald. There is a St Ninian's Isle in the river Garnock, in the Cunningham district of Ayrshire. Another Orcadian island bears the name of St 011a, ' Description of Western Isles, p. 153. ^ Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 96. " Description of the Shetland Isles, p. 456. * Western Isles, p. 379. " Tour through Orkney and Schetland, p. 188. « Eccles. Notes, p. 127. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. xii. pp. 20-32. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 295 otherwise Olave, the Norwegian king and martyr, who had a church at Whiteness, in Shetland, dedicated to him under the curious name of St Olla's Chair.^ The island of St Kilda is called after no particular saint, though Buchan^ says that the name " is taken from one Kilder, who lived here ; and from him the large well, Toubir-Kilda, has also its name." Regarding St Kilda Sir Herbert Maxwell re- marks : " There never was a saint of that name, which probably represents Oilean celi D6, Isle of the Servants of God, or Holy Culdees."^ St Maelrubha, otherwise St Rufus or Ruifus, who founded a monastery at Apurcrossan (Applecross) in Ross-shire in 673, is still remembered in St Ruffus's Isle, some six miles south of the site of his monastery, and in Innismaree, one of the islands of Loch Maree, the name of island and loch representing Maelrubha in an altered form. When describ- ing the island, Pennant remarks : " The shores are neat and gravelly ; the whole surface covered thickly with a beautiful grove of oak, ash, willow, wicken, birch, fir, hazel, and enormous hollies. In the midst is a circular dike of stones, with a regular narrow entrance : the inner part has been used for ages as a burial-place, and is still in use. The curiosity of the place is the well of the saint ; of power unspeakable in cases of lunacy. The patient is brought into the sacred island, is made to kneel before the altar, where his attendants leave an offering in money : he is then brought to the well, and sips some of the holy water. A second offering is made. That done, he is thrice dipped in the lake, and the same operation is repeated every day for some weeks ; and it often happens, by natural causes, the patient receives relief, of which the saint receives the credit. I must add, that the visitants draw from the state of the well an omen of the disposition of St Maree : if his well is full they suppose he will be propitious ; if not, they proceed in their operations with fears and doubts : but let the event be what it will, he is held in high esteem. The common oath of the country is by his name. If a traveller passes by any of his resting-places they never neglect to ' Hibbert's Shetland, p. 460. ^ Description of St Kilda, p. 5. * Scottish Land-Names, p. 91. 296 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. leave an offering; but the saint is so moderate as not to put him to any expence, — a stone, a stick, a bit of rag contents him."^ Carlyle says : " Man is always venerable to man ; great men are sure to attract worship or reverence in all ages ; and in ancient times it is not wonderful that sometimes they were accounted as gods." This happened in the case of Maelrubha, for a vague tradition lingered in the district that he was a god; and it was customary till the latter half of the seventeenth century to sacrifice a bull to him in "ane heathenish manner in the iland of St Ruffus, comonlie called Elian Moury."^ Innis-Maree is thus not Mary's Isle, as some have supposed. To find St Mary's Isle we have to travel south to the neighbourhood of Kirkcudbright, where a priory once stood dedicated to the Virgin. St Serfs Island, in Loch Leven, extends to about ninety acres, and is fully a quarter of a mile distant from Portmoak. A priory once stood on the island, and had Andrew de Wyntoun, the chronicler, at its head, who says of himself, " I wes made Priowr oif the Ynche within Lochlewyne." We find a reference to the island in the ninth century, for in 842 the Pictish king, Brude, bestowed it on St Serf and the Culdee hermits who dwelt there. About a century later it was handed over by the Culdees to the Bishop of St Andrews. Some two hundred years thereafter the Culdees themselves were suppressed, their place being taken by Augustinian canons dependent on St Andrews.^ After refer- ring to St Serfs connection with Culross, Wyntoun says : — " Syne fra Culros he past ewyn To the Inche of Lowchleffyn he duelt thare. Till scWyn yhere oure-passyd ware." * Queen Margaret, wife of Malcolm Canmore, has left her name in St Margaret's Inch, now a peninsula on the north shore of Forfar Loch. It is " partly artificial, a rampart of ' Tour, vol. ii, p. 330. '' Inverness and Ding-wall Presbytery Records, p. 338. » Haddan and Stubbs, Ecclesiastical Councils, vol. ii., Part I., p. 227. * Cronykil, book v., chap. xii. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 297 stones and oak-piles still protecting it from the waves. On it a castle is supposed at an early period to have stood ; but whether or not this was so, there is no doubt that a religious house was erected upon it by Alexander II." ^ The queen is further recalled at Forfar by Queen Street, the Queen's Well, and the Queen's Manor. Inch is the form adapted to Lowland speech of the Gaelic innis, defined by MacLeod and Dewar, inter alia, as an island, pasture, resting-place for cattle. What were once islands in rivers sometimes become meadows, — "green margins along the sides of long withdrawing valleys " ; and consequently inch, pasture, commonly takes us back to inch, island. Inchmichael and Inchmartin, in the Carse of Gowrie, are not now islands, though they were probably at one time surrounded by water. Canon Isaac Taylor mentions that at the former a boat-hook was discovered "at a depth of eight ; feet below the soil and twenty feet above the present high-water mark."^ Inchaffray, in Madderty parish, is a ruined abbey on a rising ground beside the Pow, the spot having doubtless been once a swampy island. It means the Isle of Masses,^ and in Latin charters is styled " insula missarum." We find St Machar's Inch near Aberdeen,* and Inch- brayock, an island at the mouth of the South Esk, close to Montrose, called after St Brioc, a disciple of St Germanus of Auxerre, who flourished about a.d. 500, and gave name to St Breock in Cornwall and St Brieux in Brittany. The island, together with the adjacent part of the mainland, made up the ancient parish of Inchbrayock, united to St Skeoch in 1618 to form the present parish of Craig. Its church stood on the island, and its cemetery is still in use. In the time of Robert the Bruce we find charter references to the parson of the church, styled rector of the church of St Braoch.* St Brioc had a chapel at Newbattle in Mid-Lothian, and was joint-patron with the Virgin of the church of Dunrod in ' Warden's An^s, vol. i. p. 148. ^ Words and Places, p. 239. ' Gael, aifrionn, Lat. offerendum. In Gilbert's charter of A.D. 1200, Inch- affray appears as " Incheafferen quod Latine dicitur Insula missarum." — Vide 'Liber Insule Missarum.' * R. M. S., 1641. ^ Liber de Aberbrothoc, vol. i., Pref., p. xxviii. 298 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. Kirkcudbrightshire. He had also a link with Rothesay, the parish, as we saw in chap, viii., having been known in Gaelic as Cilla'bhruic— ^'.e., St Brioc's Church. Inchinnan parish, where the Cart joins the Clyde near Renfrew, may bear St Finan's name, but more probably that of St Inan, a confessor whose cultus was popular at Irvine and Beith. Inch Kenneth, near Mull, shows the name of St Cainnech or Canicus, well known as patron of Kilkenny in Ireland, who, according to Bishop Reeves, was born in 517 and died in 600. Dean Monro says of Inch Kenneth : " It is a fair ile, fertile and fruitful, full of cunnings, about the shores of it, with a paroch kirk, the maist parochin being upon the main shoar of Mull, being onlie an half myle distant from the said ile, and the haill parochin of it pertains to the prioress of Colmkill.''^ Inchmarnock, to the south-west of Bute, had ecclesiastical associations from an early date, and still possesses the ruins of a chapel. The island be- longed to Saddell Abbey from about 1220 till the Reforma- tion. Reeves derives its names from St Ernan of Rathnew, in Wicklow, who died in 625, and is commemorated in the ' Aberdeen Breviary ' on 25th October, where he is described as patron of Kilmarnock.^ There is an Inch- marnock in the north — an island in the Dee three miles below Ballater. Its ancient burying - ground was swept away during the memorable flood in 1829, but there is still a ruined chapel on the island. The picturesque islet of Inchmahome in the Lake of Menteith, with its ruined priory and fine old trees, and its garden where Queen Mary wandered in her childhood, recalls the name of St Colman, otherwise Mocholmog, of the sixth century. According to the ' Martyrology of Donegal,^ Colman and Mocholmog are the same; for Mocolmog is the Irish devotional name compounded of Mo- Columog— i.e., " my little Colum," or " my beloved Colum." ' Description of Western Isles, p. 34. " Reeves says : " It may be well to observe that the word Memoc is a contraction of Mo-Ernin-occ, the prefix denoting- 'my,' and the suffix 'little,' so that the name thus altered conveyed the additional expressions of affection and familiarity." — Adamnan, p. 251. 3 P. 148, note. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 299 In 1296 Inchmahome appears as "I'lsle de St Colmoc."^ Inch-Aidan, the old name of Kenmore parish, Perthshire, takes our thoughts back to the seventh century, when St Aidan was called from lona to Northumbria by King Oswald to preach the Christian faith to his pagan subjects. Aidan died in 651, and Bede tells how St Cuthbert saw the soul of Aidan carried to heaven by angels. The church and churchyard of Inch-Aidan were situated at the junction of Lyon and Tay, till the middle of the eighteenth century, when both were removed and their site was planted with trees.* Mr John Christie mentions the following curious circumstance which happened prior to the obliteration of the churchyard : " Inchadney was used all along as a general place of burial irrespective of parishes. According to local tradition, the last to be interred there were two persons, one of whom had died at Bolfracks, and the other at Fearnan ; and to relieve the spirit of either of the departed from for ever undergoing the doom of the Faire-chlaoidh,^ the relatives arranged that the two burials should take place on the same day and at the same hour, and this was solemnly carried out."* Eilean-Aidin was the name formerly given to the small wooded island in Loch Tay close to Kenmore, where are still to be seen the ruins of the Augustinian priory founded in 1122 by Alexander I. in memory of his wife Sibylla, who was buried on the island. Three islands in Loch Lomond fall to be noticed — viz., Inchmurrin, Inchcailleach, and Inch - ta - Vannoch. The first, formerly known also as Inchmerin, bears the name of St Merinus or Mirinus, a disciple of St Congal of Bangor, who found his way to the West of Scotland, and is said to have died at Paisley, where the abbey was dedicated to * Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Inchmahome." 2 Campbell's Book of Garth and Fortingall, p. 77. ' In explanation of Faire-chlaoidh, Mr Christie says : " It was g-enerally believed that the spirit of the last person buried had to keep watch at the entrance to a graveyard until the next burial. The writer was told by an eye-witness of a funeral at which the mourners ran with the coffin to be in advance of another burial, which was to take place the same day."— 'The Lairds and Lands of Loch Tayside,' p. 17, note. * The Lairds and Lands of Loch Tayside, p. 17. 300 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. him conjointly with St Milburga and St James. At the south end of the island are still to be seen the remains of a castle belonging to the ancient Earls of Lennox; and near it were visible, in 1724, the ruins of St Mirren's Chapel, but there is no longer any trace of the building. Inch- murrin is beautifully wooded, and is now used as a park for fallow-deer.'^ Inchcailleach, in Buchanan parish, was once itself a parish. It means the Island of the Nun — viz., St Kentigerna, sister of St Congan and mother of St Fillan of Strathdochart, who made the island her retreat during the later years of her life, and died there in 734.^ Its ancient church was dedicated to her.^ Inch-ta-Vannoch is a steep island in Luss parish, and means the Island of the Monk's House. St Kessog, who flourished in the sixth century, is said to have had a hermitage here, and in later times the island seems to have been the site of a monastic establishment. Its summit is called Tom-na-Clog — i.e., the Knoll of the Bell.* Among the islands in Loch Awe is Innis-Chonain, a little north of Fraoch Eilean, recalling St Congan mentioned above. The island abounds in firs and beeches, the successors probably of those under which the saint used to wander. ' Eraser's The Lennox, vol. i. pp. 44-48. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. 32. ' Vide note on the church of Saint Kentigerna Inchcailleach, Loch Lomond, by the Rev. William H. MacLeod, B.A., B.D., in Trans. Glasgow Archaeol. Society, New Series, vol. iv. pp. 75-83. * O. P. S., vol. i. p. 32. CHAPTER XXIII. LANDSCAPE FEATURES — continued. Kilbride Loch, is^c. — Loch Connell — Loch Whinyeon — Lochiuinnoch — Loch Fergus— St John's Loch— St Helens — St Germain's — St Tredivell's— Loch Maree — Loch Finlagan — Columkille — Sianta — Holy Loch — Loch- nan-ceall — Loch Duich — St Margaret's Hope — Queensferry — Kessoci Ferry — St Magnus's Bay — St Catherine's Dub — Kilchattan Bay, ^c. — Sanct Mofettis Bay — Portmaluag, isfc Portpatrich — Altpatrick — St Mtrren's Burn, Isfc. — St Marnoch's Ford, Isfc. — Amulree — Polman- uire — JVallach Pot, is'c. — Eas-Innian — Easa-Pheallaidh — St Paul's Linn — Aberfeldy — Cambusnethan — Cambusmichael — Cambuskenneth. Various lochs are associated with the names of saints, usually in virtue of ancient dedications close to their shores. There was once a chapel to St Bridget at Kilbride, now Kirkbride, in Keir parish, Dumfriesshire, and near it is Kilbride Loch. Loch Patrick is appropriately to be found in the Kirkcudbrightshire parish of Kirkpatrick- Durham. In Kirkcolm parish, Wigtownshire, is Loch Connell. Kirk- colm bears St Columba's name, and Sir Herbert Maxwell connects the loch with the saint, on the ground that the latter was one of the "Cinel Connaill or Clan Connel." Loch Whinyeon, in Girthon parish, is perhaps St Finan's or Winnin's Lake.^ Lochwinnoch, in Renfrewshire, written in addition to a variety of other forms Lochynoc, Loch- winnoc, and Lochwhinyeoch, probably also embodies St Wynnin's name, the oc being, as Mr Johnston suggests, the honorific diminutive. There is some uncertainty as to the saint's identity, though he may be Saint Wynnin of Kil- winning. The compiler • of ' The Parish of Lochwinnoch ' 1 Gall. Top. 302 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. remarks: "There can be little doubt that he belonged to Ireland, and was one of those missionary monks who, after the time of St Patrick, wandered over land and sea to preach the Gospel. At what time he settled in Loch- winnoch is unknown ; but there he seems to have settled, and to have built his chapel on the west side of the loch, and around it there afterwards grew up the kirk-town of Lochwinnoch.^ The lake from which Lochwinnoch derives its name is Castle-Semple Loch, so called from the residence of the Lords Semple, demolished in 1735 to give place to the present mansion. Near it was founded, in 1504, by John Lord Sempill, a collegiate church for a provost, six chaplains, two singing boys, and a sacristan to take the place of an earlier foundation believed to have been situated at Chapeltown, near the Castle park.^ Loch Fergus, near Kirk- cudbright, cannot claim any connection with St Fergus, but recalls Fergus, Lord of Galloway in the twelfth century, the founder of several monasteries, after whom Loch Fergus, four and a half miles south-east of Ayr, is probably also named.^ To lochs named after the Virgin reference was made in chap. XV. St John's Loch, in Dunnet parish, Caithness, had anciently a chapel dedicated to St John at its east end. Till well on in last century the lake was resorted to, par- ticularly on the first Monday of February, May, August, and November (O.S.), by invalids, who walked round it, bathed, and threw a piece of money into the water.* Some of the votive pennies have occasionally been picked up within quite recent years. St Helen, mother of Constantine the Great, was honoured both north and south of the Tweed. The ruined St Helen's Kirk in Cockburnspath parish, Berwickshire, is an interesting example of her Scottish dedications. A lake at Selkirk was called after her. Indeed there must have been more than one lake there bearing her name ; for, in the Latin charter (of date 1507-8) mentioning the fact, the phrase "Lacus ' ArchsEolog-ical and Historical Collections of the County of Renfrew,— The Parish of Lochwinnoch, vol ii., Introd., p. xx. " Ibid., p. xxi. 3 Gall. Top., s.v. "Loch Ferg-us." •* N. S. A., Caithness, p. 38. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 303 S. Elene " is in the accusative plural, and not in the nom- inative singular.^ Some lands in the same neighbourhood were known in 1528 as Sanct Helenis-Schaw — i.e., Wood.^ On Timothy Font's map we find a St Helen's Loch marked a little to the south-west of Camelon in Stirlingshire. St Germain's Loch, in New Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire, suggests the name of St Germanus of Auxerre, who flourished in the century after St Helen. St Serf's Water is a small loch in Monzievaird and Strowan parish, Perthshire. The ancient church of Monzievaird was dedicated to St Serf. St Tredwell's Loch, in the Orcadian island of Papa-West- ray, has a special interest for the student of folklore, for it was believed to turn red when anything striking was about to happen to a member of the royal family. And it was credited, moreover, with the power of curing disease, like St John's Loch already referred to. The Rev. R. M. Fergusson, who visited the spot some years ago, remarks : " Within St Tredwell's Loch there once stood, upon a low rock, an ancient chapel, known as St Tredwel's Chapel, and famous for imparting medicinal properties to the waters of the loch. In olden times the diseased and infirm people of the North Isles were wont to flock to this place, and get themselves cured by washing in its waters. Many of them walked round the shores two or three times before entering the loch itself, to perfect, by so doing, the ex- pected cure. When a person was engaged in this peram- bulation nothing would induce him to utter a word; for if he spoke, the waters of this holy loch would lave his diseased body in vain. After the necessary ablutions were performed they never departed without leaving behind them some piece of cloth or bread, as a gift to the presiding genius of the place. In the beginning of the eighteenth century popular belief in this water was as strong as ever."* The chapel, now in ruins, is twenty-nine feet long and twenty-two feet broad, and has walls averaging about four feet in thickness. When the rubbish was cleared out several years ago, thirty copper coins were discovered on the floor, the majority belonging to the reign of Charles II.* ' R. M. S., 1424-1513, p. 685. 2 Ibid., 1513-1546, p. 144. ^ Rambles in the Far North, p. 213. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvii. p. 137. 304 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. The saint to whom the chapel was dedicated has a variety of names, but is best known as Triduana. The chief seat of her cultus was Lestalrig, now Restalrig/ near Edinburgh, where, according to the ' Martyrology of Aberdeen,' she was honourably buried in a royal chapel (" honorifice apud Capellam Regiam sepulta "), and where her shrine was distinguished by miracles. To this shrine persons suffering from sore eyes, and particularly those who had lost their sight, went for cure. Such sufferers, as Sir David Lyndsay tells us, went " to Sanct Tredwell, to mend thair ene." Like St Monenna, St Triduana is said to have plucked out her eyes to get rid of the attentions of an obnoxious suitor, who had been attracted by their beauty. There is some confusion in the legend of St Triduana, for she is represented as connected with the mission of both St Regulus and St Boniface. The probability is that she belonged to the mission of the latter; for we find a trace of her in Forfarshire (where Boniface settled) — viz., in St Triduane's Fair, otherwise St Trodline's, formerly held at Rescobie, but long since transferred to Forfar.^ We find another trace of her in Sutherland, at Kintradwell in Loth parish, where there was a chapel dedicated to her. In the ' Orkneyinga Saga ' ^ she appears as Trollhaena ; and we are there told that John, Bishop of Caithness, who had his eyes put out in 1201 by command of Earl Harold, received his sight again at "the resting-place of the holy Trollhaena." As stated in the previous chapter, Loch Maree, in Ross- shire, bears the name of St Maelrubha. The loch is about thirteen miles in length, and is believed to have anciently formed one sheet of water with Loch Ewe. It is significant that the village near the head of Loch Maree is called Kinlochewe — i.e., the head of Loch Ewe, the name being derived from " an old farm which stretches out along the head or upper end of Loch Maree."* 1 In the Exchequer Rolls of Scotland (vol. xv. p. 286) we read, " Cap- ellano celebrant! in ecclesia parrochiali de Lestalrig- ad altare Sancte Triduane." '^ N. S. A., Forfar, p. 610. s p_ ,gy * Hugh Miller's My Schools and Schoolmasters, p. 257. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 305 In Islay is Loch Finlagan, so called from a chapel to St Finlagan on an island in the loch. Martin says: "This Lake lies in the Center of the Isle. The Isle Finlagan, from which this Lake hath its Name, is in it. It's famous for being once the Court in which the great Mack-Donald, King of the Isles, had his Residence ; his Houses, Chapel, &c. are now ruinous."^ St Finloga, who gives name to the chapel and loch, was of Irish birth. He was brother of St Fintana of Dunblesque, in Limerick, and crossed the sea with him to Alban, where he died. He seems to have been a contemporary of St Columba.^ The latter is repre- sented in the name of Loch Columkille,^ in Kilmuir parish, Skye, partially drained in 1763, the work being completed in 1829. Towards the northern end of what was once the bed of this lake is some elevated ground, about three acres in extent, formerly called St Columkille's Island, and still showing traces of an early ecclesiastical settlement.* In the same parish is the small lake called Loch Sianta or Seunta — i.e., the Sacred Loch ; but it is uncertain whether the name has pagan or Christian associations. The writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.' * observes : " The hallowed appearance of the situation did not escape the fancy of the ancient Highlanders, whose veneration for such places was carried to a ridiculous excess. Owing to the crystalline purity of the water, its copiousness, and the sequestered situation of this little Hebridean Silvan, they conceived it to be favoured with its divinity, to whom, in the early ages of darkness and ignorance, they were ex- tremely punctual in making offerings of various kinds. Invalids always resorted thither, and imagined that they were benefited by drinking of its water, and by thoroughly washing themselves in a bath erected for the purpose." Martin says that the trout in the lake were, for superstitious reasons, never caught, and that not far off was a small 1 Western Isles, p. 240. ^ Reeves' Adamnan, p. 275. ^ Part of Portree Bay, Skye, is called Loch Columkille ; and Martin describes Loch Erisort, Lewis, as "within the Bay call'd Loch Colmkill." — 'Western Isles,' p. 4. ^ Adamnan, p. 275. * Inverness, p. 245. U 306 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. copse of which " none of the Natives dare venture to cut the least Branch, for fear of some signal Judgment to follow upon it." ^ Holy Loch, in the Firth of Clyde, was so called from its proximity to St Munna's religious foundation at Kilmun; and Loch-nan-ceall, in Mull, derived its name from the churches along its shores, the name signifying the Loch of the Churches. Loch Duich, in Ross-shire, an arm of the sea extending from the head of Lochalsh, five and a half miles south-eastward, bears the name of St Duthac, a Scottish bishop who was trained in Ireland, and died in 1065. His church at Lochalsh stood at Kilduich, at the head of the loch. About the time of Duthac's death, Margaret, grand-niece of Edward the Confessor, fled from Northumbria with her brother, Edgar Atheling, her mother and her sister, and landed on the Fife coast at a bay near Inverkeithing, called afterwards, in honour of her, St Margaret's Hope. There is another St Margaret's Hope in the Orcadian island of South Ronaldshay, with a village of the same name at the head of the Hope, thirteen miles south of Kirkwall. Re- garding the Fife example just mentioned. Major remarks: " Edgar Atheling, king of the English, having at heart the misfortunes of his country, took ship with his mother, his sister, and his whole household, desiring to return to the land of his birth. Tossed by contrary winds, he was driven on the Scottish shores at a place which, for that reason, is called by the inhabitants St Margaret's Bay. But king Malcolm, learning they were English people, went down to the ships ; for he spoke the English tongue like his own, which at that time was a rare thing for a Scot. After long converse with her, and the performance of many kind offices, the daughter of the king of England, Margaret by name, by reason of her gifts at once of mind and her outward charm, won such favour with Malcolm that he took her to wife."* Queensferry North and South, known in charter Latin as " Passagium Sancte Margarite regine," bears witness to the frequent crossings made by the Queen between Dunfermline, ' Western Isles, p. 141. ^^ Greater Britain, pp. 125, 126. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 307 where her husband held his court, and Edinburgh, which, though an important stronghold, was not then the capital of Scotland, and did not become so till some four centuries later.^ A small sheet of water near Arthur's Seat is known as St Margaret's Loch, and not far off is St Margaret's Well, covered by an elaborate stone structure believed to date from the twelfth century. This structure stood formerly at Restalrig, but was removed to its present site last century.^ Kessock Ferry, near Inverness, bears witness to St Kessock, otherwise MacKessock, who was patron of Luss in the Lennox, and of whom there are traces at Callander and Comrie. In 1115 Earl Magnus of Orkney, as we saw in chap, xvii., was treacherously slain by his cousin Hakon at an interview on the island of Egilshay. He was buried first in Egilshay, and then in Birsay, where, according to the belief of the people, miracles were wrought at his tomb. His last resting-place was at Kirkwall, where St Magnus's Cathedral was built for the reception of his relics. In the time of Boece there was a tradition that, on the day when Ban- nockburn was won, St Magnus rode into Aberdeen, clad in shining armour, to announce the Scottish victory. Accord- ing to a later tradition, he reappeared on the day of fatal Flodden, landing from Orkney at Auchmedden at an inlet called afterwards St Magnus's Haven, which he is said to have blessed so that no boat belonging to it should be lost at sea.^ Better known is St Magnus's Bay, a spacious inlet on the west coast of Shetland, running nearly fourteen miles into the land, and having at the south of its broad entrance the island of Papa-Stour. In one of the creeks near the parish manse of Slains, Aberdeenshire, is a pool styled by the fishermen St Catherine's Dub, from a tradi- tion that the Saint Catharine — one of the vessels of the Spanish Armada — was wrecked there in 1588.* Certain bays are called after ancient dedications to be found on their shores. Thus the Bays of Kilchattan, Bute ; 1 Perth was the capital till 1483. 2 P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvii. pp. 177-182. 3 Collections, Aberdeen and Banff, p. 446 and note. * Pratt's Buchan, p. 32. 3o8 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. Kilmaluag, Skye; Kilfinan, Lochfyne; Kilchoan, Ardna- murchan ; and Kilpatrick or Drumidoon, Arran, have or had chapels named after Chattan, Luag, Finan, Congan, and Patrick respectively. St John's Haven, Tarbat parish, Ross-shire ; St Lawrence's Bay, Greenock ; and St Ninian's Bay, Bute, are also believed to have had chapels in their immediate neighbourhood dedicated to the saints from whom they derived their names. The cultus of St Fiacre or Fittock, an Irishman of the eighth century who settled in France, was popular at Nigg in Kincardineshire, where there are still a burying-ground and a well bearing his name. Nigg Bay was formerly known variously as St Ficker's Bay, Sandy Fittick Bay, San Fittick's Bay, and " Sanct Mofettis- bey," the last form having the honorific ma or mo prefixed to the saint's name. We find the Gaelic port, a port or harbour, in such names as Portmaluag, Lismore — St Luag's Harbour ; Port- maholmack, Tarbat — St Colman's Harbour; Port Ronan, lona — St Ronan's Harbour ; and Port-a-Churaich in the same island, the Harbour of the Currach, where St Columba is said to have landed from his currach or hide-bound boat. At Port-a-Churaich is an artificial mound, about fifty feet in length, shaped like a boat, with the keel up, said by tradition to represent the size of Columba's boat.'' New- haven, so called to distinguish it from Leith, was made the site of a dock for shipbuilding by James IV. ; and there, in 1511, was built the Michael, "ane varie monstrous great schipe." A chapel was founded for the accommodation of the sailors and workmen connected with the dock. It was dedicated to Our Lady and St James, and gave to the place the alternative name of Port of Our Lady of Grace.^ Portmoak, in Kinross-shire, recalls St Moan or Moach, about whom little is known beyond the fact that he was associated with St Brendan, whom he advised to make a missionary voyage among the Northern Isles. In 1243 Bishop David de Bernham consecrated the church of Portmoak, and dedicated it to St Moan in conjunction with ' O. S. A., vol. xiv. p. 203. '' Stotherd's Parochial and Collegiate Antiquities of Edinburgh, Last Series, p. 129. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 309 St Stephen the Martyr.^ St Brendan gave name to a haven at Boyndie, near Banff, styled in a charter of 1527 " Sanct Brandan's Hawyn." ^ Portpatrick, in Wigtownshire, is identified with the name of Ireland's patron saint. In a quarry there, whence stone was procured for the harbour works, once flowed a spring dedicated to St Patrick, and on or near the site of the old parish church stood an earlier building known as Chapel Patrick. There are two local traditions relating to the famous apostle of Ireland. One is that he stepped across the Channel at a single stride and left the mark of his foot on a rock, removed, however, when the harbour was being made. The other is that the saint, having been beheaded somewhere about Glen App in Ayr- shire, walked to Portpatrick with his head under his arm, but, not finding a boat to take him to Ireland, he grasped his head in his teeth and swam across. Streams are sometimes associated with the names of saints. Altpatrick, in Paisley parish, means St Patrick's stream, the prefix being Gaelic allt, a stream. Near Fort William is Aultkieran, recalling St Kieran. In Paisley parish we find St Mirren's Burn and St Martin's Burn. St Bride's Burn, in Kilbarchan parish, derived its name from a chapel to St Bridget, whose site was long marked by an ash-tree a little to the west of the entrance to St Bride's Mill House.* Polnar Burn, flowing into the Don past the burying- ground of Polnar Chapel, in Inverurie parish, recalls St Apollinaris of Ravenna, to whom the chapel was dedicated. At Luncarty is St Fillan's Burn. St Fillan is also remembered in the river Fillan, flowing through StrathfiUan in Killin parish. It rises on Benloy at a height of 2980 feet, and, after a course of fully eleven miles, enters Loch Dochart, whence it passes as the river Dochart into Loch Tay. The Rev. J. G. Campbell gives the following item of local folk-lore relative to the saint : "An Urisk haunting Beinn Doohrain (a hill beloved of the Celtic muse), on the confines of Argyllshire and Perth- shire, stayed in summer time near the top of the hill, and in winter came down to the straths. A waterfall near the ' Kal., s.v. "Moanus." ^ Reg. de Aberbrothoc, vol. ii. p. 467. ' Lochwinnoch, vol. i. p. 6g, note. 3IO LANDSCAPE FEATURES. village of Clifton and Tyndrum, where it stayed on these occasions, is still called Eas na h-uruisg, the Urisk's Cascade. It was encountered by St Fillan, who had his abode in a neighbouring strath, and banished to Rome.''^ In the parishes of Luss and Arrochar is Trostane rivulet,— a reminiscence, perhaps, of St Drostan, Trostan being one of the forms of the saint's name. In Glen Lyon is Alt- Bhrachdain, a burn called after St Brachdaidh, whom Mr Duncan Campbell identifies with St Brioc.^ In a fifteenth- century charter, describing the boundaries of certain lands at Ellon belonging to the Bishop of Aberdeen, " Saynt Manynis Burn " is mentioned,^ recalling the saint who gives name to St Monan's in Fife. St Mary's Burn, otherwise Lady Burn, flows into the Eden at the eastern end of Cupar, in the last-mentioned shire. Cupar had at one time a Dominican monastery dedicated to the Virgin, and there is still a Lady Wynd in the burgh, at the end of which was the Lady Port. In Galston parish is Burn Ann, which may possibly be St Ann's Burn ; but facts are wanting to settle the point. The church of Galston was dedicated to St Peter, and there was a chapel to St Mary in Galston tower ; * and one would not be surprised to find a trace of St Ann in the same locality. In Houston parish is St Peter's Burn, so named from the titular of the church. Kevoch Burn, in Eaglesham parish in the same shire, is thought by Bishop Forbes to reflect the name of the saint commemorated in the Ayrshire parish of St Quivox.' Colonel White is probably correct when he connects Kerran Water in Kintyre, joining the Conieglen about a mile above Kilblane, with the name of St Kieran.® In St Boswell's parish, Roxburghshire, is St Boswell's Burn, a tributary of the Tweed. In Neilston parish, Renfrewshire, is Kirkton Stream, running into the Levern. Corsehill Burn separates the parishes of Dunlop and Stewarton in Ayrshire. At Salen, in Torosay parish, Mull, are the ruins of a building said to have been connected with the monastery of lona. ' Superstitions of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, p. 196. ' Book of Garth and Fortingall, p. 61. " Reg-. Episc. Aberdeen, vol. i. p. 248. •■ Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 517. » Kal., s.v. " Kevoca." « Archa;ol. Sketches, Kintyre, p. 90. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 3II A rivulet running past it is called the Preacher's Burn, — in Gaelic, Ald-an-tsearmaniche, — the preacher in this case having been, according to local tradition, St Columba.^ Fords in rivers sometimes retain the names of saints. St Marnoch left his name in a ford over the Deveron, close to the old burying-ground in Marnoch parish, Banffshire ; and St John's Ford is found in the same parish about two miles below the Bridge of Marnoch.''' Tanglan's Ford, in the Ythan in Tarves parish, Aberdeenshire, recalls St Englat, a tenth-century saint, to whom the church of the parish was dedicated.^ Ath-Bhrannaidh in Glen Lyon, a little to the east of Garth House, means the Ford of St Brandan,* ath being Gaelic for a ford. Lyon Bridge spans another ford, locally known as Ath- Math -Grioma, from St Griom or Grioma, a saint of uncertain date.^ Amulree, in the Perthshire Highlands, about half-way between Crieff and Aberfeldy, signifies the Ford of St Maelrubha. The ford in question crosses the Bran, and traces of it may still be seen close to the bridge which now spans the river. When General Wade was in the Highlands constructing roads and bridges (between 1720 and 1730) he considered the Amulree ford so good that he thought a bridge there unnecessary. Polmanuire, in the Dee near Crathie, recalls the name of St Miniar or Niniar, to whom the church of Crathie was dedicated. He is described by Camerarius as bishop and confessor, and is said to have died in 824.*' On Alt-Odhar, at Fortingall in Perthshire, is a pool known as Linne-a- Fhiachre, where St Fiacre, already referred to, is said to have baptised his converts. Mr Charles Stewart remarks : " Fortingall became a vicarage, and it has been supposed —not altogether without probability— that the proper name of the pool is the ' Vicar's Pool.' This, however, is con- tradicted by the pronunciation, which in this case would ' N. S. A., Argyll, p. 287. ^ Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 234. ^ Dr Temple's Thanage of Ferraartyn, p. 370. * An ancient burying-ground beside the Spey in Knockando parish is called Pulvrenan, probably St Brandan or Brendan's Pool. ^ Campbell's Book of Garth and Fortingall, p. 67. " Kal., s.v. "Manirus." 312 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. be Linne-a-Bhiocar, and not Linne-a-Fhiachre, as it un- doubtedly is." Mr Stewart adds : " To this I can testify, being intimately acquainted since infancy with the pool and its surroundings." ^ In the same neighbourhood are Poll-a- Chiaran and Ath-a-Chiaran, respectively the Pool and the Ford of St Ciaran. There were two saints called Ciaran, but it is not clear to which of them these were dedicated. At Foss, on the other side of the hill from Fortingall, is Poll-Cheodan — i.e., the Pool of St Cedd, who preached Christianity in Perthshire in the early part of the seventh century prior to becoming a bishop among the East Saxons. He was brother of St Chad and a firiend of St Aidan of Northumbria, all of whom are commemorated in Breadalbane. Close to Walla Kirk in Glass parish, where a footbridge crosses the Deveron, is a pool in the river, some fourteen feet deep, locally known as Wallach Pot, so called from St Wallach, the patron saint of the district, whose holy well in the neighbourhood was formerly much resorted to in the month of May. Near Tyndrum is the Holy Pool of St Fillan, in the river Fillan referred to above. It used to be much frequented for its supposed curative virtues, particularly in cases of insanity. Patients of this class, after being dipped in the water, were tied all night to a certain stone at St Fillan's ruined priory, about half a mile distant, under the belief that if in the morning the bonds were found loose, recovery would ensue: but if not, the case was hopeless, or at any rate doubtful. According to a local tradition, the Holy Pool lost its efficacy through a farmer having plunged his mad bull into the water in the hope that the beast would be cured.^ In the Tyne, near East Linton in Haddingtonshire, is a rapid called St Baldred's Whirl, named after St Baldred of the Bass ; and in the Tweed, near the site of the monastery of Old Melrose, is an eddy known as the Haly Wheel— i.e.. Holy Whirlpool. On the Burn of the Corrie of Flowers descending to the Lyon is a series of waterfalls styled Eas-Innian — i.e., the Cascade of St Ninian. One of these rapids used to be known as Easa-Pheallaidh— i.e., the Waterfall of St Pal- ' Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland, pp. 58, 59. ' Vide Folk-Lore of Scottish Lochs and Spring-s, pp. 119-127. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 3 13 ladius, who is believed to have inhabited a mountain- sheihng in the same district, the place being still known as Ruidhe Pheallaidh, the Sheiling of St Palladius. On the Dunning Burn, which flows into the Earn, is a linn known as St Paul's Linn, where St Serf, the patron of the parish, is said to have baptised his converts. The pool below the hnn is called Pauley. The Rev. R. S. Clazy of Dunning is probably correct when he connects the name of the place with St Palladius, who, according to the 'Aberdeen Breviary,' ordained St Serf in the first half of the fifth century. Aberfeldy, in Strath-Tay, signifies in Gaelic the Confluence of Palladius, who gave name to a rock in the neighbouring Den of Moness, known as Castail Pheailaidh. Holy Linn, one of the picturesque cascades of the Garple Burn, in Kirkcudbrightshire, is said to have derived its name since the Reformation from the fact that there the ejected minister of the parish, in per- secuting times, occasionally baptised the children of his flock.i Cambusnethan parish, Lanarkshire, is probably the bend of St Nechtan, otherwise Nathalan, from Gaelic camiis, a bay or bend. Its old church was built " at the south- western extremity of the parish beside a fine curving reach or camus of the Clyde." ^ The Nethan stream, flowing past the ruins of Craignethan Castle, joins the Clyde, not, how- ever, in Cambusnethan parish, but at Crossford, in Les- mahagow parish. Cambusmichael, an ancient parish of Perthshire, united to St Martin's towards the end of the seventeenth century, was dedicated to St Michael the Arch- angel. The ruins of its church are still be seen on level ground close to a great bend of the Tay. Cambuskenneth, across the Forth from Stirling, probably signifies the Bend of St Kenneth, one of Columba's firiends.^ The place is best known through its connection with the richly en- ' N. S. A., Kirkcudbright, p. lOO. ^ O. P. S., vol. i. p. S7- ' Kenneth the king- has been connected with Cambuskenneth. His claims are thus somewhat vaguely set forth in the ' N. S. A.' (Stirling, p. 425) : "The name signifies the Field of Kenneth, the adjacent grounds having been, it would seem, the scene of some transaction in which one of the princes of that name was concerned." 314 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. dowed abbey of St Mary, founded by David I. in 1147. The monastic buildings were welinigh pulled down in 1559, and about eleven years later the stones of the church were taken away by John, Earl of Mar, to build Mar's Work in Stirling ; but the massive four-storied tower, seventy feet high, still remains. " The site of this solitary tower," observes Mac- kenzie Walcott, "is most beautiful, almost surrounded by the windings of the Forth, and fine trees ; whilst the grand elevation of Stirling on its commanding height, with many spires, a castle, and the steeple of the Grey Friar's Church on the south, and the wooded Abbey Crag on the east, partly frame the view." ^ ' Scoti-Monasticon, p. 300. CHAPTER XXIV. LANDSCAPE FEATURES — Continued. Halyhill—St Andrew's — ,S"/ John's — St Michael's — Cnoc-an-Aingel— Cairn Cul-ri-Eirinn — Magdalene Hill — St Leonard's — St Alexander's —St Mungo's, ^c.—Renny—St Eddran's Slack— Trusty' s Hill, isfc. — St Catherine's, ^c. — Barry — St Colm's Hillock — Sacel-hill — Norrie's Laiv — St Serf's — Torr Beathan — Knockernan, i3'c. — Knock Mulreesh — Knock Fergan — Tom-Eunan — Tom-na- Chessaig — Ard- patrick, i^c. — Ardeonaig — Ernfillan, i^fc — Ben Bhraggie — Bein Donich, is'c. — Ardkenneth — Dunharny — Drumoak — St Nicholas Craig, i^c. — Dunblane — Suidhe Chatain, isfc. — St Abb' s Head, is'c. — Peter- head — St Cuthbert's Holm, £s°c. — Magdalen Green — St John's Valley, Isfc. — Logierait — Laggan — Banchory — St Ninian's Den — Ringan's Dean — Haliedean — St Martin's Den — " Brannan How " — Glenfinnan — St Catherine's of the Hopes — Dragon's Den, Dunning — St Sare's Bank, Monkeigie. In the two previous chapters some account was given of islands, lakes, streams, fords, and pools, identified with our early saints. In the present chapter it is proposed to notice certain hills, headlands, fields, and hollows whose names have a similar origin. The Halyhill, overhanging the Water of May to the west of the Perthshire village of Forteviot, takes our thoughts back to the eighth century, when, at Forteviot, — then a stronghold of the Pictish kings, — a church was founded by the three sons of Angus, son of Fergus, and dedicated to St Andrew. The same apostle was commemorated in St Andrew's Hill, in Rayne parish, Aberdeenshire, where he was patron of the church, and was also remembered in Andersmas Fair, held at Kirktown. There is a St Andrew's Hill, otherwise called Ander Hill, on the east side of the island of Bressay in Shetland. Some land at Barras, in 3l6 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. Kinneff parish, Kincardineshire, belonged to the Hos- pitallers ; and a chapel, dedicated to their patron St John, stood at the foot of a hill called, from it, St John's Hill.i The parish of St Michael-Tarvit, in Fife, united to Cupar in 1618, had its ancient church on a conical eminence called St Michael's Hill; but the building is now gone, and the hill is planted with trees. In the ' R. M. S.,' under date 1606, we read of certain lands near Stirling called " Sanct- Michaellis-Hill " ; and in the ' Registrum de Panmure,' in the year 1662, of the lands of St Michaelhill in the barony of Brechin and Navaar. Ardmichael (St Michael's Height) is in South Uist, and in Kells parish is Craig Michael (St Michael's Rock). The inhabitants of lona were accustomed, in Pennant's time, to drive their horses on Michaelmas round a certain hill to the west of the island.^ This hill — a green eminence measuring about 167 paces at the base — is known as the Angel's Hill (in Gaelic, Cnoc-an-Aingel), having received its name, according to tradition, from a throng of white- robed angels that visited St Columba on its summit.^ Reeves says : " The name Cnoc-an-Aingel is locally pre- served, and is marked on Graham's map of the island; but that by which it is more familiarly known is Sithean Mor, or Great Fairy-hill, as distinguished from Sithean Beg, Little Fairy-hill, which lies a short way north-west firom it." It at one time had a circle of stones on the top.* Another eminence in lona connected with St Columba is Cairn Cul-ri-Eirinn, in the south of the island. It means the Cairn of the Back turned towards Ireland, and was so called from the circumstance that Columba could not catch a glimpse from it of his native land. Bishop Reeves men- tions that there is a Carn Cul-ri-Erin in Colonsay, and that " in an old map of Mull the hill Cruachan Garv is marked with a cross on the top, on the north side of which is written ' Karn Cul-ri-Albayn,' and on the south, ' Karn Cul- ri-Erin.' " Magdalene Hill, near Perth, locally called Maidlen Hill, ' Jervise's Land of the Lindsays, p. 399, note. '■' Tour, vol. ii. p. 259. ' Adamnan, lib. iii. cap. xvii. * Ibid., p. 292. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 317 owes its name to a hospital anciently dedicated to St Mary Magdalene, and granted by James I. to the Carthusian mon- astery founded by him at Perth in 1429.^ St Leonard's Hill at Dunfermline recalls a hospital dedicated to the saint of that name. There is a St Leonard's Hill near Banff.^ The hill of St Alexander, in Dunipace parish, is referred to in a charter circa 1190; and in a Stirlingshire Retour of 1582 mention is made of the lands belonging to St Alexander's chapel, and of a wood called Sanct Alexander's Cuthil, both in the same district ; but we know little about the saint in question. Camerarius mentions a St Alexander, son of a Scottish king, who, along with his sister Mathildis, went to France, where he entered a Cistercian monastery. There are few traces of his cultus in Scotland. Forbes states that a fair of St Alexander was held at Keith in Banffshire.^ We are on surer ground in connection with St Mungo's Hill, near Huntly in Aberdeenshire, suggesting Mungo, otherwise Kentigern, of Strathclyde, whose name it is in- teresting to find so far north. Bridget of Kildare gives name to St Bride's Hill in Wauchopdale, Dumfriesshire. In Keir parish is the Ridge of Kilbride, called, like the loch of the same name, firom a chapel to St Bridget in its neighbourhood. Rennyhill, otherwise Irnie Hill, is an estate in Kilrenny parish, Fife, and is perhaps connected with St Ethernan, whose name occurs in an altered form in Saint Eddran's Slack, a den in Rathen parish, Buchan, to the east of Mormond Hill, where the saint is said to have had a hermitage.* Trusty's Hill in Anwoth parish, like Bardrestan, Bar- dristan, and Bartrostan in the parishes of Urr, Kirkmabreck, and Penninghame respectively, embodies, according to Sir Herbert Maxwell, St Drostan's name, the prefix in the last three being Gaelic barr, a top.^ There is reason to believe that St Drostan also gives name to Trostan Hill in Straiten parish, Ayrshire, at the foot of which once stood a chapel. One of the three hills on which Aberdeen is built is called St Catherine's Hill, from a chapel to St Catherine founded 1 Fittis's Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth, p. 274. 2 Pococke's Tours in Scotland, p. 195. ^ Kal., s.-u. "Alexander." * Collections, Aberdeen and Banff, p. 133. ' Gall. Top. 3l8 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. in the thirteenth century by the Constable of Aberdeen. Early last century the larger part of the hill was removed to open up a communication between Union Street and Castlegate.' Tillydrone, not far from the cathredral of Old Aberdeen, is otherwise known as St Thomas-i-Becket's Hill. According to one tradition it was formed of creelfuls of earth brought thither by penitents. Another tradition is given by Orem, who says : " The said hill of Tilliedron was artificially built by King Robert's soldiers, as men acquainted with antiquities relate ; which seems to have been designed for a watch-guard, for the use of his army when they lay here : and thereafter the clergy who lived in the chanonry kept a watch or guard on it in troublesome times, that they might not be surprised suddenly by their enemies."^ In the Forfarshire parish of Inverarity is Lawrence Hill, probably so named from St Lawrence the Martyr. In Alyth parish are Chapel Hill and Barryhill, the latter recalHng St Berach, titular of Kilberry in Argyll, and founder of a monastery at Cluain-Choirpthe in Ireland, now Kilbarry, county Roscommon. Barryhill is probably the same as the place called Dunbarre in Angus by Bellenden, where there was a "castell of quhilk nathing remains now bot the prent of the wallis." Bellenden says that Guanora, wife of King Arthur, after the death of her husband was brought to this castle, and remained there for the rest of her life.' There is a Berryhill farm in Auchtergaven parish, and on its boundary a chapel once stood. Near Stuartfield, in Old Deer parish, Aberdeenshire, is a rising-ground now called the Chapel Hillock, but formerly St Colm's Hillock. Tradition says that vestiges of buildings were once to be seen on the spot.* According to the 'N. S. A.,'* Sacel-hill, near Paisley, received its name from a pre- Reformation sacellum or chapel which stood at the foot of the hill, and gave name to a small cluster of houses known as " the chapel." The Anglo-Saxon law, a hill, is found in Norrie's Law, an ' Kennedy's Annals of Aberdeen, vol. ii. pp. 57, 58. ^ Description of the Chanonry of Old Aberdeen, p. 107. ' Chronicles of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 86. •> Przitt's History of Buchan, p. 128. ^ Renfrew, p. 139, note. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 319 artificial mound in Largo parish, where quantities of silver ornaments bearing curious patterns were discovered about the year 1817.1 Forbes connects this Law with a saint called Norie, who had a chapel at Little Leny, in Callander parish, but regarding whom nothing is known.^ We find St Serfs Laws, otherwise St Servan's Laws, in the barony of Abercorn, West-Lothian, named in a charter of date 1546.^ The Gaelic torr, a conical hill, gives us Torr Beathan, or, in its aspirated form, Torvean, near Inverness, named after St Baitan, Columba's cousin, who succeeded him as Abbot of lona in 597.* Cnoc, another Gaelic word for a hill, is represented in Cnoc Odhrain — i.e., St Oran's Hill, in the island just named. It appears also in Knockernan (in Kirkcowan parish), St Ernan's Hill, and in Knockie Fountain in Old Luce parish, perhaps St Fintan's Hill, which Sir Herbert Maxwell compares with Challoch Munn in the same parish — i.e., Tulach Munna, the Hill of St Munna, another name for Fintan. Sir Herbert thinks that Knockmilauk in Whithorn parish is perhaps the Hill of St Moluag, whose name apparently occurs in the Howe Hill of Haggamalag, in the same parish. Knock Mulreesh, in Islay, is believed to be the Hill of St Maol-rise, another name for St Finlagan, whose ancient chapel, called Cill Fheileagan, is in its neighbourhood. In Coylton parish, Ayrshire, is Knock Mirren, the Hill of St Mirren, whom we meet with in Glenmeran (Gaelic Gleann- Meurain), in the district of Glen Lyon,^ where one is interested to find a trace of Paisley's patron saint. Knock Fergan, in Kirkmichael parish, Banffshire, recalls St Fergus, who died at Glammis in the eighth century. On the south-east side of the hill is Fergan Well. A local legend, which says that the spring was once in Italy, probably points in a confused way to the saint's visit to Rome. With Knock Fergan may be compared Tullyfergus, in Bendochy parish, Perthshire. Tom-Eunan, close to Loch Insch in Inverness-shire, is a ' Wilson's Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 220, 250-263. 2 Kal., s.v. " Norie." " R- M. S. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. xvi. p. 267. * Campbell's Book of Garth and Forting^all, pp. 70, 71. 320 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. wooded eminence on which stands the parish church of Insch, and means the Knoll of Adamnan. The church is a very old one, and contains a quadrangular Celtic bell associated with the cultus of the saint. According to a local tradition the bell was once removed, but kept calling out " Tom-Eunan ! Tom-Eunan ! " till restored to its proper resting-place.^ Tom-ma-Chessoig or Tom-na-Chessaig, at Callander, the site of the old church, signifies the Knoll of St Kessog. Tradition says that butts were formerly placed there for the practice of archery.^ A local market was held annually in March under the name of Feill-ma-Chessaig — i.e., St Kessog's festival. Comrie, too, had a St Kessack's Fair, and still has a Tom-na-Chessaig.^ Ardpatrick, the Height of St Patrick, is a hamlet and a headland at the south-west corner of Knapdale, Argyll. Tradition says that the headland was the landing-place of St Patrick when on his way from Ireland to lona. Craig- phadrick, St Patrick's Rock, noted for the vitrified fort on its summit, is near Inverness ; and Cairn Pat, St Patrick's Cairn, is appropriately to be found in Portpatrick parish; while in Dairy parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, is Stroanpatrick (Gaelic Sron-Patraic), St Patrick's Promontory. Ardeonaig, on the south shore of Loch Tay, means St Adamnan's Height, — Eonaig being a variant of Eonan, and both cor- ruptions of Adamnan. Barlenan, in Kirkcowan parish, means the top of St Adamnan, if Reeves is correct in re- garding Lennan as a strangely modified form of the saint's name.* ErnfiUan, in Crossmichael parish, is thought by Sir Herbert Maxwell to correspond to Ard-an-Fillain, St Fillan's Height. It may be compared with Penfillan in Keir parish, Dumfriesshire, where the prefix looks like the Cymric pen, a head, cognate with Gaelic ceann. In Strathearn we have Dunfillan, from Gaelic dun, a hill. Ben Bhraggie (Gaelic Beinn Bhrach daidh), near Golspie in Sutherland, means the Hill of St Brachdaidh, whom Mr Duncan Campbell identifies with Brioc, a disciple of Germanus of Auxerre,' ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, pp. 195, 196. '■' O. S. A., vol. xi. p. 609. ^ Chronicles of Strathearn, p. 37. * Kal., s.v. " Lennan." » Book of Garth and Fortingall, p. 65. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 321 and whose name, he thinks, is to be found in Brachtie, part of the lands of TuUiebole in Kinross-shire. According to Mr Johnston, Ben Eunaich, near Dalmally, commemorates St Adamnan. Bein Donich, in Lochgoilhead parish, recalls St Donan of Eigg, and so does Cairndonnan in Kirkcolm parish, as well as Slewdonnan in Kirkmaiden parish, where the prefix is Gaelic sliabh, a moor, or moory hill. Ard- michael, a headland in South Uist, marked by an old burying- ground, signifies the Height of St Michael. There is a reminiscence of St Kenneth in Ardkenneth, St Kenneth's Height, also in South Uist. We find him likewise in Galloway, for Cairn-Kennagh in New Luce parish, Cairn Kenny in the same parish, with another in Inch parish, and Cairn Kinna in Minigaff parish, all signify the Cairn of St Kenneth. Arduthia, at Stonehaven, is thought by Bishop Forbes to recall St Duthac of Tain.^ In Kilfinnan parish, Argyll, not far from the sea, is a field known as Ardmarnock — i.e., the Height of St Marnock — with a graveyard and ruined chapel. Some 300 yards away are, or were, the remains of a small ancient building, the reputed cell of the saint, to which, according to tradition, he retired for purposes of penance.^ Dunbarny in Perthshire, written Drumbernin circa 11 50, probably means the Hill of St Brendan,^ though Mr John- ston makes it the Hill with the Gap, from Gaelic beam, a cleft. The saint had undoubtedly some connection with the district, for in the adjoining parish of Abernethy is Brendan's Well, popularly styled " Brendi Well."* Aber- nethy had a link with the Nine Maidens, daughters of St Donevald of the Den of Ogilvy, who dwelt by the Earn after their father's death, and were buried there at the foot of a large oak, much resorted to by pilgrims in pre- Reformation times.^ The cultus of St Mazota, otherwise Mayot, said to be the eldest of the nine, found its way to Deeside, — Drumoak, the Ridge of St Mayot (from Gaelic imim, the back), having been named after her. Dalmaock, the alternative name of Drumoak, means the Field of St ' Kal., s.v. " Duthac." ^ O- S. A., vol. xiv. p. 258. ' Kal., s.v. " Brendan." * Rev. D. Butier's Abernethy Parish, p. 102. ' Ibid., p. 147. X 322 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. Mayot, from Gaelic dail, a field. On a haugh near the Dee is St Maik's Well.^ St Nicholas Craig, near Dundee, bears the name of Nicholas, Bishop of Myra, who was patron -saint of sailors, and whose festival was celebrated on 6th December. Craig David, close to Bervie in Kincardineshire, recalls not St David (David I.), but David II., who landed there from France, along with his wife Johan, in May I34I-' Duncomb, in Old Kilpatrick parish, is St Columba's Hill; and Dunblane, with its ancient cathedral close to the mur- muring Allan, is the Hill of St Blane, who is perhaps also remembered in Strathblane. He was the nephew of St Catan, whom we find at Ardchattan (St Catan's Height), a parish lying on both sides of Loch Etive. Uncle and nephew are represented in Kingarth parish, Bute, where we find Suidhe Chatain and St Blane's Hill. Suidhe is Gaelic for a seat (Latin sedes), and is found elsewhere in Suidhe Ghuirmein (St Gorman's Seat) and Suidhe Mhercheird (St Merchard's Seat), both in Urquhart and Glenmoriston parish.' Gorman is said to have been one of the first missionaries to the Braes of Urquhart. Merchard, other- wise Yarchardus (the m being honorific), was connected with Kincardine O'Neil in Aberdeenshire, to which, as well as to the other Kincardines throughout Scotland, he is believed by Forbes to have given name ; but such an etymology is unlikely.* Suidhe Chuimein (St Cumine's Seat) is near Fort Au- gustus. Cumine, who died in 669, was a predecessor of Adamnan as Abbot of lona. Adamnan's own name, con- siderably altered, occurs in St Arnold's Seat in Tannadice parish, Forfarshire, where the pre- Reformation church was dedicated to him. The name was written in 1527 " Sanct Eunandis Seit," and in 1535 " St Ennan's Seit." The hill is cairn-crowned, and commands a view to the south as far as the Lammermuirs. St Patrick's Seat, in Old Kil- patrick parish, is mentioned in connection with a grant of 1 O. S. A., vol. iii. p. 315. '■' Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. pp. 243, 244. '^ Mackay's Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 336, note. * Kal., s.v. "Yarchardus," LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 323 land to Paisley Abbey circa 1233, but its precise locality is unknown.^ In addition to Ardpatrick and Stroanpatrick referred to above, other headlands may be mentioned — e.g., St Abb's Head near Coldingham, where St Ebba found a place of religious retreat after quitting Northumbria; St John's Head, otherwise Dunmey, in Canisbay parish, Caithness; and St Ninian's Point on the west coast of Bute, marked by chapels to St John and St Ninian respectively. Rules- ness, in Shetland, looks like St Rule's promontory; but, according to Dr David Ross, it is the ness or promontory "where young horses were kept," from Norse rool, a young horse.2 Peterhead, in Buchan, derived its name in all probability from an ancient dedication to St Peter, the head being what was formerly called the Caikinch — now the Keithinch. The parish was formerly styled Peterugie. Some fields and hollows claim attention in conclusion. East of Sorn village in Ayrshire is St Cuthbert's Holm — i.e., river-meadow — where a chapel with a cemetery once stood; but the site is now under tillage.^ In Old Deer parish, Aberdeenshire, are the lands of Auchmachar, signifying the Field of St Machar, the patron of Aberdeen Cathedral ; and near the Don, in Kildrummy parish, is Macker's Haugh, where stood a chapel to the same saint and where is a well called after him. Dalpatrick, in Dalserf parish, Lanarkshire, and Dalmarnock near Glasgow, are the Field of St Patrick and St Marnoch respectively, from Gaelic dail or dal, a portion of land. Dalserf itself is St Serfs Field. The parish of Dailly in Ayrshire was formerly known as Dalmakeran or Dalmaolkeran, signifying respec- tively the Field of St Kieran and the Field of the Servant * of Kieran, — the servant in all probability having been one who made a speciality of St Kieran's cultus. The pre- Reformation church was dedicated to St Michael, the Archangel having evidently supplanted St Kieran in the estimation of the district ; but a trace of the earlier dedica- tion survives in the name of Kilkerran — i.e., the Church ' Bruce's Old Kilpatrick, p. 59. ^ Proceeding's of the Philosophical Society of Glasgow, vol. xxv. p. 112. ^ O. S. A., vol. XX. p. 182. ■* Vide Appendix, M. 324 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. of St Kieran — an estate in the parish.^ There are the lands of Dalmakerran, in Tynron parish, Dumfriesshire. Dala- rossie, now united to the parish of Moy, Inverness-shire, is, according to Shaw, an altered form of Dale-Fergus — i.e., which he interprets as Fergus's Valley.^ Dal, however, is evidently Celtic dail, a field, as already indicated, and not Teutonic dale, a valley. If Shaw is correct about Fergus, the church was probably dedicated to the saint of that name.^ Magdalen Green at Dundee is believed to have derived its name from a chapel to St Mary Magdalene on the high ground near the end of Step Row, where some sculptured stones were discovered early last century. The place was a common belonging to the burgh, and was known also as Magdalen Gair or Geir, corrupted later into Magdalen Guard and Magdalen Yard. Gatr or gare, according to Jamieson's ' Scottish Dictionary,' signifies a stripe or triangular piece of cloth forming an insertion in a garment, and hence a slip of sward in the midst of barren ground. St Catherine's Green is the name of a piece of ground at Banff.* In Edinkiilie parish, Elginshire, is the valley of St John, in the neighbourhood of the Findhorn ; and on the banks of the river, near Darnaway Castle, are the Meads of St John, where tournaments were once held. Pluscarden Priory, some six miles west of Elgin, founded by Alexander II. and known as Vallis Sti. Andrese^ — i.e., the Valley of St Andrew — was built in the glen watered by the Black Burn, a tributary of the Lossie. Titles were usually given to Carthusian monasteries, and accordingly the Charterhouse at Perth was styled " The House of the Valley of Virtue," probably, as Mr R. S. Fittis suggests, because it stood in the valley of the Tay.^ Strathmartin parish, now united to Mains, recalls St Martin of Tours. The parish, or at least the church place, of Logierait in Perthshire was formerly known as Laggan-math-Chaidd, ' Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 536. " Province of Moray, p. 97. ' Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 54. * Cramond's Annals of Banff, vol. i. p. 292. " Shaw's Province of Moray, p. 259. " Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth, p. 217. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 325 the Hollow of St Chadd, from laggan, diminutive of Gaelic Ic^, a hollow. Referring to St Chadd, Mr Charles Stewart remarks : " His market was, until lately, held at Logierait on the 22nd of August. At one time there was Fuaran- Chad, or Chadd's Well, on the hillside behind the church. The place is still pointed out; but the water has dis- appeared — in disgust, as tradition has it, at the market being dropped." ^ Lagganallachy, in Little Dunkeld parish, probably retains the name of a saint called Allocus or Mocheallog, of whom little is known. The Gaelic name of Laggan parish, Inverness-shire, is Laggan -Choinnich (in 1239 Logynkenny), signifying the Hollow of St Kenneth, who is believed to have visited the spot, and whose ruined church near the eastern end of Loch Laggan was built by Allan-nan-Creach or Allan of the Spoils, one of the Locheil family, who reared this and other six churches as an atonement for his crimes.^ In Urquhart and Glenmoriston parish, Inverness-shire, is Lag- an-t'-Seapail — i.e., the Hollow of the Chapel, where a chapel once stood, and where traces of old graves are still to be seen.* The ancient parish of Logiebride, Perthshire, an- nexed to Auchtergaven in the seventeenth century, means the Hollow of St Bride (Bridget of Kildare). A spring near the site of the ancient church is appropriately called St Bride's Well. The two Deeside parishes of Banchory- Ternan and Banchory-Devenick probably both mean the White or Fair Hollow, from Gaelic ban, white, and coire, a cauldron, or cauldron -shaped hollow. The former recalls St Ternan, disciple of St Palladius, and the latter St Devinic, a con- temporary of St Machar, who had some link with Creich in Sutherland and Methlick in Aberdeenshire, and was buried at Banchory, where a church was founded in his honour. He is believed to be the saint who appears in Landewednack in Cornwall and Landevenach in Brittany.* In the 'O. S. A.,'^ Banchory-Ternan is written Banchory- ' Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland, p. 62. ^ Macpherson's Church and Social Life in the Highlands, p. 94. ' Mackay's Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 336. * Kal., s.v. " Devinic." ' Vol. vii. p. 369. 326 LANDSCAPE FEATURES. Tarnan. The writer of the parish article remarks : " The last part of the name is that of a saint ; hence one of two annual fairs held near by is called St Tarnan's Market; and a small fountain, not far distant, is called St Tarnan's Well." We find den or dean — the Scottish synonym for English dingle — in St Ninian's Den, a deep ravine near Dunnottar Castle in Kincardineshire ; and in Ringan's Dean — i.e., St Ninian's Hollow, in Bowden parish, Roxburghshire. On a precipice overhanging it was an ancient chapel surrounded by a burying-ground. This chapel probably gave name, not only to Ringan's Dean, but to the neighbouring farm of Haliedean (now Holydean), where an enclosure of 500 acres, formerly styled the Great Deer Park of Haliedean, is still surrounded by a fairly well-preserved dry-stone wall, built more than 300 years ago."^ The church of Logie-Montrose parish, Forfarshire, now united to Pert, had St Martin of Tours as its titular. A hollow in the parish — the haunt of many a primrose — is known as "St Martin's Den."^ In Boyndie parish, Banffshire, near the old church, is Brannan How — i.e., St Brendan's Hollow, where Brandon Fair is believed to have been held before it was transferred to Banff.^ Glenfinnan, in Ardnamurchan parish, derived its name from the stream of Finnan flowing into Loch Shiel, so called from St Finnan. The glen is best known from its connection with the Stuart rising of 1745 ; for there, on the 19th of August of that year, the flag of Prince Charles Edward was for the first time unfurled. The ancient Mid-Lothian parish of St Catherine's of the Hopes, united to Penicuik in 1635, recalls St Catherine of Alexandria.* Its church was called St Catherine's of the Hopes — i.e.. Glens — to distinguish it from St Catherine's of the Kaims — i.e.. Hills — in Liberton parish. Regarding its erection, the story runs that a St Clair of Rosslyn, in the time of Robert the Bruce, built it as a thankoffering to the saint for helping his hounds to catch a fleet white deer before it crossed a certain burn. Had the deer escaped his head was to have been the forfeit; but through the sup- • O. p. S., vol. i. p. 290. ^ Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 209. •' V. D. A., p. 646. * Scot's Fasti, vol. i. p. 306. LANDSCAPE FEATURES. 327 posed intervention of St Catherine the deer was taken, and a considerable tract of land became his in consequence.^ The remains of the building are now covered by the reser- voir on Logan Burn belonging to the Edinburgh and District Water Trust. Dragon's Den — the alternative name of New Pitcairn village,^ in Dunning parish — is traditionally connected with one of the exploits of St Serf. According to the ' Breviary of Aberdeen,' " a great dragon, in a place which is called Dunnyne, did great mischief. The saint killed him with the ferule of his pastoral staff, and the place is called the Valley of the Dragon." ^ It is interesting to find an an- cient tradition associated with the name in question ; but "dragon" may perhaps have to give place to droigheann, a Gaelic word signifying a thorn or bramble. There is a Baldragon in Forfarshire. St Serf's cultus spread from Perthsire and Fife into Aberdeenshire, where the church of Monkeigie was dedicated to him. Jervise says : " The present parish church (built in 1771) stands upon a portion of ' Sant Sare's bank,' where, it is said, St Sare's fair was held previous to its removal to the parish of Culsamond." * This fair continues to be held, early in July, on a stance between Insch and Culsalmond. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. xiii. p. 130. ^ O. S. A., vol. xix. p. 439. ' Kal., s.v. "Servanus." * Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 301. CHAPTER XXV. ACRES AND CROFTS. Gudemans Croft — Meaning of terms — Ecclesiastical connection — Abhey — Kirk — Chapel— Sanctuary — "God's" Croft— St Saviour's Acres — Trinity Croft — " Dowcatt " — Bishop's — Procurator's — Abbot's — Prior's — Canon's — Chancellor s — Vicar's — Parson's — Clerk's — Priest's — Curate's — Sacristan's — Monk's — Friar's — Hermits — Nun's — Lamp Acre — Deiuar's Croft — Croit-Churadain — St Lolan's Croft — St Lawrence's — St Michael's — St John's — St Thomas's — St James's — St Mary's — St Anne's — St Roche's — St Tenew's — St Ninian's — St Stephen's — St Merinach's — St Marnock's — St Chad's — St Colme's Aikar — St Patrick's Croft — St Cuthbert's — St German's — St Martin's — St Finbar's — Croft Maluac — St Catherine's Crofts — St Adamnan's Acre — Croft of St Apollinaris. To the student of folk-lore the term croft is familiar through its occurence in the phrase "the gudeman's croft." "In many parishes of Scotland," remarks Sir Walter Scott, " there was suffered to exist a certain portion of land, called 'the gudeman's croft,' which was never ploughed or cultivated, but suffered to remain waste. No one doubted that ' the goodman's croft ' was set apart for some evil being, — in fact, that it was the portion of the arch-fiend himself. This singular custom sunk before the efforts of the clergy in the seventeenth century ; but there must still be many alive who in childhood have been taught to look with wonder on knolls and patches of ground left unculti- vated, because whenever a ploughshare entered the soil the elementary spirits were supposed to testify their dis- pleasure by storm and thunder." ' ' Letters on Demonology and Witchcraft, p. 78. ACRES AND CROFTS. 329 As regards meaning, acre and croft are identical, — the one recalling A.S. cecer, and the other A.S. croft, both signify- ing a field. Indeed the two are interchangeable. Thus we find, in a charter of date 1585-86, an acre of land, near St Boswell's in Roxburghshire, referred to under the name of St Margaret's Croft ("Acra terre vocata Sanct Margar- ettis-Croft ").^ When a piece of land was gifted to chapel or altar, it was naturally called after the saint to whom such was dedicated. There was a double advantage in this : not only was the ecclesiastical character of the ground indicated, but its very name recalling some saint held in reverence by the Church would tend to keep the land from being alienated. After the Reformation, a saintly name in many cases no longer acted as a charm, and consequently ceased to prevent land from passing into lay hands. It is true that even after the Reformation we find the old ecclesiastical names lingering in charters ; but gradually the name of the new owner of the ground supplanted that of the saint. Portions of land connected with ecclesiastical buildings appear in such forms as Abbey Croft of St Andrews,^ Kirk- croft in the parishes of Kirkpatrick-Fleming and Tibber- muir; and Chapel Croft in Leochel-Cushnie parish. Chapel Croft in Rutherglen parish (otherwise Trinity Croft), and Chapel Acre at Innerleithen. " Oure-Ladyis-Chapell-Croft " in Kirkcolm parish was a pendicle connected with Kilmory Chapel, beside Loch Ryan. A charter of 1602 mentions " Kirk- Christis-Chapell -Croft" close to KilfiUan, in Old Luce parish. At Cambusbarron, near Stirling, is Chapel- Croft, containing the site of Christ's Chapel, in which, ac- cording to tradition, Robert the Bruce partook of the Communion before the battle of Bannockburn. The 1 R. M. s. ^ There was no abbey at St Andrews. The superior of the Culdees there was, however, styled abbat. " This peculiarity," according to the late Marquess of Bute, "seems to be preserved down to this day by the use of the word 'abbey' in connection with some places in this city." — ' University Rectorial Address,' p. 29. Abbey Croft, and also Abbeymill, belong to the priory of St Andrews, and it is possible that the priory may have given name to croft and mill, just as the priory of Lesmahagow gave name to Abbey-Green ; but the point is a difficult one to settle. 330 ACRES AND CROFTS. foundations of the chapel were removed early in last century ; but Christ's Well, otherwise the Chapel Well, is still to be seen hard by.^ A piece of ground styled the " Angelwell Croft " is referred to in an Aberdeen charter of 1526.- As we shall see in chap, xxvii., the Knights-Templars, and, after them, the Hospitallers, had possessions scattered up and down our land, and traces of the fact are still to be met with in topography. In the ancient parish of Mow, now included in Morebattle in Roxburghshire, is Temple Acre.* In Fetteresso parish, Kincardineshire, a " Tempil- croft " is mentioned in 1502-3 for behoof of a perpetual chaplain in the chapel of St Mary and St Nathalan at Cowie (" ad sustentationem unius capellani perpetui in capella Virginis Marie et S. Nauthlani ").* There was a Tempil- croft at Harlaw in Aberdeenshire. At Luffness, in Aberlady parish, Haddingtonshire, was another Templecroft, which at one time belonged to the Knights- Templars settled in the barony of Drem, in Athelstaneford parish. The Carmelites or White Friars ^ had an establishment at Luff- ness ; and there is reason to believe that they became pos- sessors of the land in question after the suppression of the Templars, for in a chsirter of i6th February 1620, granted to Patrick Hepburn, reference is made to "the temple land of the friars of Lufnes, called the temple Croft.'"* By a charter of 145 1 James II. bestowed on his wife, Mary of Gueldres, certain lands, and among them the crown lands lying to the east and west of Linlithgow, along with the Sanctuary-Crofts (" Acras, regales tarn ex orientali quam occidentali partibus dicti burgi cum les Sanctuary ' Fleming's Old Nooks of Stirling, pp. 85-91. ■^ Reg. Episc. Abend., vol. i. p. 391. ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 420. * R. M. S., 1424-151^^, p. 569. " Spottiswood says that the Red Friars had an establishment at Liiffiiess, but does not give his authority beyond stating that it was mentioned in ancient charters and records along with other houses of the Order. A charter of 1633, in the ' R. M. S.,' though mentioning lands at Luffiiess formerly belonging to the Carmelites, assigns the Temple-Croft in question to the Preaching Friars — i.e., the Dominicans or Black Friars — evidently by mistake. By 1633 some confusion had probably arisen between the White and the Black Friars. " Chartularios of Torphichen and Drem, Part II., p. 3. ACRES AND CROFTS. 33 1 Croftis ").^ In mediaeval times every church and church- yard formed a sanctuary, and sometimes the girth extended beyond the Hmits of the latter. In this case, however, the sanctuary was probably connected not with any religious foundation, but with Linlithgow Palace as a royal residence,^ and corresponded with what is known as the peel or park. At the foot of Pilgrim Hill, east of Linlithgow, once stood the hospital of St Mary Magdalene ; and connected with it was Spittelcroft (Spittal Croft). In 1608 we read of " Almoushouscroft " at Arbroath, and in 1641 of " Seikmanis- hous"and " Seikmaniscroft " ^ near Stirling. On the out- skirts of Elgin stood the preceptory of Maison-Dieu ; and belonging to it in all probability was the portion of land known as Spytelcroft. Prior to the Reformation, Abbey St Bathans parish in Berwickshire consisted of the separate parishes of St Bathans and Strafontane, otherwise Trefountain. In the latter an hospital was founded, temp. David I., which be- longed to the abbey of Alnwick, but passed, in 1437, to the monks of Dryburgh.* Godscroft, in its neighbourhood, associated with the name of David Hume, the post-Refor- mation controversialist,^ derived its name, in all likelihood, from its connection with this hospital. In earlier times Domus Dei (Maison Dieu) was the name commonly given to such foundations ; and hence land devoted to the pur- poses of the charity might well be styled God's Croft. In Ross -shire there was a Croft of the Lord, for in the 'R. M. S.,' under date a.d. 1611, we read of " Quartam partem crofte de Tarbat vocate Crofte Domini." As mentioned in chap, xxviii., Jedburgh has some land still known as the Maison Dieu Acres. There was a Crystyis 1 R. M. s. '•* Bell, in his ' Commentaries on the Law of Scotland ' (vol. ii. p. 461), says : "There have been two kinds of sanctuaries in modern Europe,— one arising from religious considerations, and another from respect for the person of the king." * R. M. S. '' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 34, note. 5 Hume was a son of Sir David Hume of Wedderburn. He was born circa 1560 and died circa 1630 ; but the exact dates are not known. Among other works he wrote a ' History of the House of Douglas.' Godscroft is still a place-name in Abbey St Bathans parish. 332 ACRES AND CROFTS. Croft (Christ's Croft) on the lands of Meikle Methlick in Aberdeenshire, so named, according to Jervise, in a charter in Haddo House.^ At Dundee was a piece of ground called St Saviour's Acres, connected with St Saviour's (St Sal- vator's) altar in the parish church. This altar was endowed by " Patrick of Inverpefir," burgess of Dundee, in 1391. After the murder of David, Duke of Rothesay, in 1402, it was further endowed by Robert III. " for the weal of the soul of our whilom first-born David," the king granting to it " a hundred shillings yearly from our great Customs of Dundee for ever." ^ A Trinity Croft is mentioned in a charter of date 1585-86 in connection with the altar of the Holy Trinity in the church of Scone in Perthshire.^ When cross or rood occurs in topography in connection with croft or acre, the names indicate either a plot of ground where a cross stood, or one whose rent was devoted to some altarage of the " Holy Rood." In 1540 mention is made of two Rood Acres near Jedburgh; in 1569-70 of Rood Crofts at St Andrews ; in 1592 of Ruid-Aiker near King- horn ; in 1612 of Ruidiscroft at Aberdeen ; and in 1641 of Ruidcroft near Stirling.* Cosmo Innes says : " The Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem had a tenement in Peebles (which kept the name of Templeland to the close of the seventeenth century) and an acre of land attached to it called ' Rud Aiker.'"^ The form Cros-Aikeris also occurs. Cors-Croft — i.e., Cross-Croft— is mentioned in 1583 in a charter of Alexander Ogilvy, who held the prebend of the Holy Cross in the collegiate church at CuUen.^ In a charter of 1455-56 relating to the endowment of St Peter's altar in the church of St Nicholas at Aberdeen, Halyland Croft is named along with several others.'' According to feudal law the right of keeping pigeons was restricted to the lord of a manor and the rector of a parish. To Norman influence was due the building of dove-cots, which were usually very substantial structures. A dove- cot in the grounds of the Greyfriars' monastery at Elgin, 1 Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 28. » Maxwell's Old Dundee, pp. 20, 21. ' R. M. S. 4 Ibid. » O. P. S., vol. i. p. 231. R. M. S. ' Cart, de Ecclesia Sancti Nicholai (Aberdeen), vol. ii. p. 285. ACRES AND CROFTS. 333 together with some remains of the monastic buildings, founded by Alexander II., could be seen till the beginning of last century, when they were demolished to supply stones for building purposes. In a charter of 1635, in connection with the situation of certain lands at St Andrews, we find the Columbarium S. Leonardi referred to as a landmark.^ When speaking of dove-cots Chancellor R. S. Fergusson observes : " Their frequency is attested by the occurrence in lists of field-names of dove-cot, pigeon-house, and culver- house fields, where now are no such buildings."^ In 1473, David, Abbot of Cupar, granted to the abbey gardener at Carse Grange that " he sal hafe our doukat puttand it til all possibyl profit to the behufe of the Abbay."^ In 1608, Dowcatland, at Skibo in Sutherland, is mentioned ; and in 1631, along with other portions of ground belonging to the abbey of Scone, Dowcatcroft is named; while in 1511 we find a reference to Dowcat-Aikir, at Ballencrief in Aberlady parish,* belonging doubtless to St Cuthbert's Hospital. In the middle of the sixteenth century, in connection with the rental of " Owir Lady Alter in Sanct Nicholas Kirk of Abir- dene," a certain sum is mentioned as derived from the "Dowcatt Croft." « The names of those who held various offices in the church were often conferred on acres and crofts. Thus we have Bishop's Croft at Old Aberdeen, and at Eastertoun of Barras in Dunottar parish, Kincardineshire. In mediaeval times, when a bishop, archdeacon, or rural dean made an official tour through a diocese, he was entitled to certain sums "ad procurandum cibum et Potum." The money thus re- ceived was called a procuration, and the official who gathered it, a procurator. We find Procutouris- Croft, in Slains parish, Aberdeenshire, mentioned in 1600 ; and Proctouris- Croft, in Ellon parish, in 1638.® There were several Abbots' Crofts, one of them being at Cowie in Kincardineshire. Crail had a Prior's Croft. Pryoris- Croft is named among the lands of the abbey of Scone, and in Linlithgowshire we find a Prior's Croft connected, in all likelihood, with one ' R. M. S. ^ Archaeological Journal, vol. xliv. p. 107. ' Register of Cupar Abbey, vol. i. p. 71. " R. M. S. 5 Cart, of St Nicholas, vol. ii. p. 285. * R. M. S. 334 ACRES AND CROFTS. or other of the two monasteries — Black Friars' and White Friars'— at Linlithgow. The priory of Lesmahagow owned a piece of ground known as Prior-hill, alias Prior-croft.^ The priory of St Andrews had its Prior-Acres, and Paisley Abbey its Prior's-croft. In Lauderdale was Channones (Canon's)-croft. Chan- cellor, the legal adviser of the bishop, gave his name to Chancellor's Croft at Dunkeld.^ Vicar's-Acre can be traced at Kinclaven ; and Vicar's- Acres at Liberton, at Boltoun in Haddingtonshire, and in the parish of Wigtown ; while Vicar's Croft occurs at North Berwick, Cleghorn, Findo- Gask, Kinghorn, Kincardine O'Neil, Inverurie, Fordyce, and Rosemarkie. Glasgow had a Parson's Croft. Archi- bald Douglas (who, as prebendary of Glasgow Primus,^ held the parsonage in 1573) " granted in feu-farm to David Rollok of Kincladye and his wife, inter alia, thirteen acres, called the Personis-Croft, on the north side of the city near the Stabill-grene," and " lands called the Personis-hauch, near Stobcors."* The ancient parish of Hassendean, Rox- burghshire, had a Clerk-croft, the property of the Earl of Haddington, towards the middle of the seventeenth cen- tury; and in 1627 the glebe land of Kilmartin parish, Argyll, is styled the Clerkis Aiker.^ We find Priest's Acres near Stirling; Priest's Croft near Kirk-o'-Muir, and another Priest's Croft near Dunbar, in Haddingtonshire ; and yet another, near Clackmannan church, granted by David I. to Cambuskenneth Abbey. ^ There was a Curate's Acre at Linlithgow. Near Coldingham was Sacristan's Croft, and we find Sacrister Croft at Scone.' The monks, who are believed to have founded at Hassen- dean a hospice for the entertainment of strangers, left their impress on local topography in the names of Monks'-tower, Monckesflattes, and Monks'-Croft. Kermanachan — i.e., the ^ R. M. S. ■-' O. S. A., vol. XX. p. 428, note. ' "The Parson of Glasgow, or what was called commonly in the Chapter, by Deeds, Glasgow Primo, was the Bishop's Vicar, and had the charge, at least after the Reformation, of the Parish of the Barony of Glasgow." — Gordon's 'Vade Mccum to Glasgow Cathedral,' p. 165. ■* Glasgow Protocols, vol. iv. p. 20, note. ° O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 94. " Nimmo's Stirlingshire, vol. i. p. 108. ' O. P. S., vol. i. pp. 316-320. ACRES AND CROFTS. 335 Quarterland of the Monks — in Kirkcolm parish is alluded to in an Inquisition of date 1590 as " Monkis Croft, per- taining to the Abbey of Glenluce.''^ Crail had a Monk's Croft, and there was one in Strathearn connected with the Abbey of Inchaffray ; while the barony of Panmure in For- farshire had a Monk's Acre.^ The friars are represented by such names as Frater's-Croft in Galloway, Freir Croft near Roxburgh, and Freiris-Croft at Queensferry, where a Carmelite or. Whitefriars' monastery was founded in 1332 by Sir George Dundas of Dundas. Dunbar has a Friars' Croft, recalling, as we saw in chap, xix., the Trinity or Red Friars, who were settled there in 12 18 by Patrick, Earl of Dunbar. Friars' Acres at Dundee belonged to the Black Friars' monastery, which was situated between what are now South Tay Street and Long Wynd.^ Friars' Acres at Ayr were so called from their connection with the Franciscan Friary founded in the burgh by Alexander II. in or about 1230.* On the lands of Braidwood, in Carluke parish, is Friars' Croft, anciently belonging in all probability to the monastery of Kelso, which had possessions in the parish. Hermit's Croft in Menteith, connected with St Fillan's Chapel near the Castle of Doune,' was referred to in chap, iii. ; and in chap. xix. we saw that the nunnery at Eccles in Berwickshire gave rise to more than one Nuncroft. In an article on the " Proposed Restoration of the Parish Church of Corstorphine " in ' The Scotsman ' of 15th July 1903, the writer, after referring to certain architectural de- tails, remarks : " One other curious fact connected with the church may be mentioned. This is the existence outside, above the chancel window, of a canopied niche, which at one time held a lamp that served to light the clergy and others across the morass, which stretched away eastward ; and that at Coltbridge was a slip of ground called the ' Lamp Acre,' which was put aside to provide for the ex- penses of the upkeep of the lamp." 1 Gall. Top., p. 206. ^ R. M. S. ^ Maxwell's Old Dundee, p. 21. '' Charters of Friars Preachers of Ayr, Introd., pp. xx and iii. ' There were two chapels to St Fillan at Doune, one inside and the other outside the castle. 336 ACRES AND CROFTS. In the Celtic Church, relics, such as bells and crosiers, were usually committed to the charge of a hereditary keeper, who had duly recognised privileges and responsi- bilities. The surname Dewar, anciently Doire, was at first the official name of such a keeper ; and a portion of land, set apart for the dewar, was styled Deray Croft. Dr Joseph Anderson gives the following examples : Deray Croft at Banchory - Ternan, Deray Croft at Fordoun, Diracroft, alias Belaikers, at the Kirktoun of Conveth or Laurence- kirk, and Diraland at Fettercairn.^ In Monomore, near Loch Tay, is Croftnamaish, regarding which Mr J. Christie expresses the belief that it "is the holding which was originally called Dewar-na-mais Croft, and which had been in the possession of a family of Dewars, the keepers of a relic of St Fillan or his church in the shape of a vessel of some kind." ^ The Gaelic Crofi-na-maish, Mr Christie thinks, means " the croft of the (sacred) dish." The same writer mentions Croit-en-deor or Dewar's Croft, now part of the lands of Acharn, which, prior to 1755, belonged to a family of Dewars, who had the hereditary keeping of the crosier of St Fillan, known as the coig- gerach or quigrich. In the ten merkland of Auchlyne was Dewar-na-fergus Croft — the Croft of the Dewar of the Farig, another relic of St Fillan.* What ihe farig was is uncertain. It is clear, however, from documentary evidence, that it and the coig-gerach were different relics. In addition to Croft- na-maish, Croit-en-deor, and Dewar-na-fergus Croft, there were other two crofts in the same district connected with certain relics believed to have been associated with the cultus of St Fillan — viz., Dewar Vernon's Croft in Suy, and Dewar-na-Maynes Croft at Killin. Dr Anderson holds that the former took its name from St Fillan's bell, and the latter from St Fillan's hand. He remarks: "The hand or arm (generally the forearm with the hand) is not an un- common relic of a saint, and was usually enshrined in a silver case, made in the form of an arm and hand."* At Kil-St Ninian, in Urquhart parish, Inverness-shire, a ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. i. p. 2u, '^ Lairds and Lands of Loch Tayside, p. 62. » Ibid., pp. 71, 72. * P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxiii. pp. iio-u8. ACRES AND CROFTS. 337 crucifix, traditionally associated with St Drostan, was pre- served in the church of St Ninian. It was under the charge of a keeper who had a croft, Croit-an-Deoir, mentioned as late as 1649. St Drostan himself had a croft in the same district known as Croit mo Chrostain. Mr William Mackay says : " Tradition tells that he preached the Gospel in Urquhart, and supported himself by cultivating Croit mo Chrostain — St Drostan's Croft — on the top of that pretty hillock which is situated immediately to the west of Bal- macaan House. The croft may have been the gift of the Pictish potentate who ruled the glen in his day. It passed to the Romish Church on its establishment about the be- ginning of the twelfth century, and in 1556 it was attached to the chapel of St Ninian, whose disciple Drostan may have been. At the Reformation it ceased to be church property." ^ Mr Mackay also refers to another croft in the same district — viz., Croit- Churadain, connected with the cultus of St Curadan, otherwise Boniface of Rosemarkie, "to whom was dedicated the old chapel of Corrimony, Clach Churadain," and after whom are named " Croit Churadain (Curadan's Croft) and Tobar- Churadain (Cura- dan's Well), both on the adjacent lands of Buntait."^ In a charter of 1620 the church-lands of Kincardine-on- Forth are mentioned along with the croft of St Lolan.' According to the ' Martyrology of Aberdeen,' Lolan was buried at Kincardine. The ' Breviary of Aberdeen ' says that he was a nephew of St Servanus ; that he was born in Canaan, and acted as claviger of St Peter's Church at Rome for seven years. Longing to see his uncle, who had gone to preach to the Scots, he one night quitted Rome, having as usual locked the door of St Peter's Church and left the key in a conspicuous place. Next morning no one could open the church, and when it was miraculously revealed that none but the hand that shut the door could open it, a deputation was sent to bring back the claviger. The deputies found him at a place called Planum, and when the saint heard their errand, he cut off his right hand and presented it to them. The hand was taken back to Rome, and at once ^ Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 326. ^ Ibid., pp. 326, 336, 337, note. ' R. M. S. 338 ACRES AND CROFTS. turned the key of the church. As a reward Lolan obtained four ass-loads of consecrated earth from St Peter's cemetery, that his body might be buried therein, — a most valuable donation, according to the compiler of the Breviary.^ St Lolan's bell and staff are thus referred to by Dr Joseph Anderson : " In that year [1675] James, Earl of Perth, was retoured in the mill and manor of Kincardine-on-Forth, along with the holy bell of St Lolan. The bell of St Lolan is known from the end of the twelfth century, when William the Lion granted the church of Kincardine to the abbey of Cambuskenneth, with its teinds, and a toft^ with a gar- den pertaining to the bell of St Lolan, and a toft with a garden to the staff of St Lolan. Neither bell nor staff is now known to exist."* In addition to St Lolan's Croft, Kincardine-on-Forth had connected with its church -lands a croft named after St Lawrence the martyr. The abbey of Dunfermline had an altar dedicated to him, and we find his name occurring in St Lawrence's Croft, as well as in St Lawrence's Yard and St Lawrence's Orchard in the neighbourhood of the abbey.* In 1641 " Sanct- Laurence-Croft " is described as situated at the end of Stirling Bridge ("apud finem pontis de Stirling "). ^ There was an altar to St Lawrence in the parish church of Stirling. The relation of croft and altar is thus indicated in an entry in the ' Stirling Burgh Records ' : " Seventh August 1528. Master Robart Galbracht, proloc- utour for Sir William Symsoun, Chaplane of Sane Lawrens altar fundit and situat within the parocht kirk of the said burgh, producit and schew ane fundacioun of the said altar makand mentioun quhar Sane Lawrance croft was gevin to the said altar and to the chaplane tharof for the tyme." ^ Beside the chapel of St Leonard near Peebles were St Leonard's Acres, known in 1624 as the " Chapel Yairds of Saint Leonardis." '' The Archangel Michael is repre- 1 Kal., p. 378. '' Tofts and crofts are often coupled together in charters. A tofl indicates a site of a building of some sort. ' Scotland in Early Christian Times, vol. i. p. 212. * R. M. S., 1582. » Ibid. 8 Vol. i. p. 32. ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 231. ACRES AND CROFTS. 339 sented by St Michael's Croft near Perth, and at Holywood, Dumfriesshire, and by St Michael's Acres at Chanonry, now Fortrose, in the Black Isle. Among the church-lands in the parish of Kilmuir Easter, Ross-shire, we find Priest's Hill mentioned along with the croft of John the Baptist.^ There was a St John's Croft at Aberdeen, and at Linlithgow was St John's Acre in con- nection with the Baptist's altar in St Michael's church in the burgh.^ Among the Templar lands in the barony of Skirling, Peeblesshire, are St John's Hill and St John's Croft.^ Galloway had three examples — viz., St John's Croft, forming part of the lands of Poltoune, confirmed in 1473 to Roger, Prior of Candida Casa, St John's Croft at Cardness in Anwoth parish, and St John's Croft in Inch parish near the abbey of Soulseat. The Croft of St John at Montrose derived its name from that of the patron saint of the church. At the beginning of last century it was a stretch of grass, but is now built upon, and contains St John's Place and St John's Cottages.* Close to the Den Burn at Aberdeen, and at the foot of the hill where stands Gilcomston Church, once flowed St John's Well. The spring was situated at the north end of a piece of ground known as St John's Croft ; but it is not certain whether the Well gave name to the croft or vice versa. Among the altars in Renfrew parish church were two, dedicated respectively to St Thomas the apostle and St Thomas-a-Becket ; and in the neighbourhood were the lands of St Thomas's Croft. At Lumquhat, in Collessie parish, was another St Thomas's Croft. At Scone was St James's Croft, described in a charter of 1586 as lying between Abbeywalls and Dean- Yard, Trinity land and Craigieburn.^ Associated with the cultus of the Virgin we find the following — viz., Lady Acre in the parishes of Inchinnan, Lanark, and Kilwinning ; Ladywell Acre near Elgin ; Lady Croft at Aberdeen, near Stirling, and in Kirkmaiden parish ; Marie-Acre, in the barony of Methven; Mariscroft, in FouHs 1 O. P S., vol. ii. p. 460. ^ R. M. S., 1491. ' Ibid., 1641. * J. G. Low's The Church of St John the Evangelist of Montrose, p. 28. = R. M. S. 340 ACRES AND CROFTS. parish, Strathearn ; Mariscroft at Ardmannach ; Mariecroft near Lindores; Croft Marieland, near Banif; Pants, or St Mary's Croft, in Rutherglen parish; and the Croft of St Mary next the Common Muir of Glasgow. This last was connected with the collegiate church of St Mary and St Anne, which occupied the site of the present Tron Church. There was a croft of St Anne between the lands of the sub-dean of Glasgow on the north and the Common Muir of Glasgow on the south. ^ St Roche's Chapel, built about 1508, was in 1530 annexed to the collegiate church just mentioned ; and in 1566 we find a reference to a sasine of half the lands or croft of St Rochy.^ Another Glasgow croft was the croft of St Tenew. Under date July 13, 1551, we read of " an acre of land lying in the croft of St Tenew, between the lands of the chaplainry of St Tenew on the east, the burn called Glasgow on the west, the common green on the south, and the cemetery of St Tenew on the north." ^ Dr Andrew MacGeorge says: "The beautiful street which now stretches westward from the Cross was in old times a country road leading to two chapels, — one dedicated to St Thomas of Canterbury, and the other to St Tanew or Thenew, the mother of Kentigern, who, ac- cording to the ' Aberdeen Breviary,' was buried there. It was surrounded by a burial-ground, now the site of St Enoch's Square. When M'Ure wrote his history in 1736, the remains of this old chapel were still to be seen — a solitary spot in the country, surrounded by corn-fields. The name became subsequently corrupted to St Enoch." * St Ninian's Croft at Glasgow, connected with St Ninian's Leper Hospital, is described as having been in 1695 "a perfectly unenclosed common, partially covered with bushes, probably of furze, and here and there marked by a few diminutive trees." ^ Near Arbroath was another croft to St Ninian, styled in a charter of 1583 " Crofta Divi Niniani," and in its neighbourhood once stood a chapel to the same saint, dedicated about 1485 by George de Brana, Bishop ' Glasgow Protocols, vol. iii. p. 38. - Ibid., p. 90. •■' Ibid., vol. i. p. 32. ■" Old Glasgow, p. 136. " Stuart's Views of Glasgow, p. 4. ACRES AND CROFTS. 341 of Dromore.i In the barony of Keithik, near Coupar- Angus, were St Ninian's mill and St Ninian's acre.^ At Barry were St Stevinis (Stephen's) Croft, and Sanct Myrnois (probably Merinach's) Croft. The lands of Barry were granted to Balmerino Abbey in Fife; and in a sixteenth- century rental of that abbey, quoted by Dr Campbell, the following occurs : " Thrie ackers of land of Barrie with houses and croft called St Merino's croft lyand besyde y* lands of Kirkton Barrie sustaining yearly bread and wyne to the high altar of y^ paroch church of Barrie." * Among the feus of Scone Abbey in 1585 we find mentioned the "croft callit Sanct Mernockis croft, als the Chapel-yaird with the Chapell of Sanctmernock with the yaird stane- dyikis about the samin."* St Chad, patron of Logierait parish in Perthshire, gave name to a croft regarding which Stewart, in his ' Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland,' ^ says : " We have his place of resi- dence and his glebe at Grantully, on the south side of the Tay, called Croit-Chad, and at the same place the remains of a chapel which must undoubtedly have been his." Sanct- Colmes-Aikar, at Auldearn, Nairnshire, recalls the name of St Columba, to whom the church there was dedicated, and in whose honour an annual fair, known as St Colm's Market, was long held on June gth, at which it was custom- ary for the young women of the parish to appear wearing white dresses.® St Patrick's Croft in the Bailliary of Carrick, St Cuthbert's Croft at Murtle, Aberdeenshire, and Sanct- German's-Aikar' at Invertiel in Fife, may be mentioned, as well as St Martin's Acre at Megginch, in the Carse of Gowrie, lying to the east of the entrance to the burying- ground. The church of Megginch was dedicated to St Martin. Croftmartin at Kinross is mentioned in 1638. Croftmartaig near Loch Tay is called after the same saint. The cathedral of the bishopric of Caithness was founded ^ Warden's Angus, vol. ii. p. 56. ^ Reg. of Cupar, vol. i. p. 353. ' Balmerino and its Abbey, p. 355. * Liber Ecclesie de Scon, p. 231. ° P. 61. ' Bain's History of Auldearn parish, p. 2. ' St Germain's Hospital, at Seton in Haddingtonshire, had possessions in Fife, and one may safely conclude that Sanct-German's-Aiker was part of the property of the Hospital. 342 ACRES AND CROFTS. at Dornoch by Gilbert, who was appointed to the see in 1223. It was dedicated to St Finbar of Cork,^ and in its neighbourhood was the croft of St Finbar.^ Near Lynchat, in Alvie parish, Inverness-shire, once stood a chapel to St Maluag of Lismore. Connected with it was a portion of land regarding which Shaw says : "I have before me a seasine on the land of Croft Maluac in favour of James Mackintosh, alias Macdonald, Glas, ancestor to John Macintosh of Strowan, by George, Bishop of Moray, anno 1575." * The same writer thus accounts for the name of St Catherine's Crofts at Elgin : " It is probable they [the Grey Sisters or Nuns of Sienna] had a convent at Elgin where there are plots of land called St Katherine's Crofts." * There is no evidence, however, that such a con- vent existed at Elgin. The crofts in question, in all likeli- hood, received their name from some altarage in the burgh. To the north of Cupar Monastery in Angus was St Cather- ine's Croft, described in the Register of the Abbey ^ as "the croft abune the burn called ' Sanct Katernis Croft.' " Three miles south-west of Cupar Abbey were the lands of Campsie, belonging to the monastery. In 1538 the abbot granted a lease to Alexander Macbroke and his heirs-male of the place and lands of Campsie, on condition, inter alia, that he should furnish " sufficient wax to St Hannand's [Adamnan's] lyght and chapel." ^ Connected with this chapel was a piece of ground called St Adamnan's Acre. In 1474 Robert PuUour, by an arrangement with the abbot, was to occupy the latter's house, and to " have the acre of St Adamnan for eleven shillings, to be paid quarterly."^ In Urquhart and Glenmoriston parish, Inverness -shire, was St Adamnan's Croft, but its exact position is not now known. Along with some other church- lands in the same neighbourhood, it was granted in 1556 to Sir John Donaldson by Mary, Queen of Scots. The saint is believed to have visited the district, and may have founded the church of Abriachan, which was dedicated to ' St Gilbert became joint-patron with St Finbar at a later date. " R. M, S. ' Province of Moray, p. 333. ■* Ibid., p. 263. " Reg. Cupar, vol. ii. p. 45. " Ibid., Introd., p. xlvi. ' Ibid., vol. i. p. 222. ACRES AND CROFTS. 343 him.^ The cultus of St Apollinaris took root at Inverurie in Aberdeenshire. In a corrupted form his name appears in Polander Fair, held formerly in the parish in July, his day being the 23rd of that month. Close to the Don stood Polnar Chapel, which gave name to the neighbouring farm oi Polinar Chappel. Dr Davidson remarks: "The residence of the early vicars of Inverurie is, by local tradition, placed close by Polnar Chapel on the lowest slope of the brae of Aikenhead, where the burn of Polnar separates it from the lands of Baddifurrow, on which the church stood." ^ In 1616 " Crofta Divi Apollinaris " at Inverurie is mentioned, and one may safely conclude that it was connected with the above chapel. St Apollinaris is usually reckoned the first bishop of Ravenna, but through what channel his cultus passed from Italy to North Britain we do not know. To any one who has visited the ancient city of Theodoric the name of St Apollinaris ^ has an abiding charm, for it recalls the splendours of the early Christian Mosaics, and the healthful influences of the Pineta where Dante loved to wander. ' Mackay's Urquhart and Glenmoriston, pp. 116, 335. - Inverurie and the Earidom of the Garioch, p. 27. ' Two Ravenna churches are dedicated to him — viz., S. ApoUinare Nuovo, built about 500 by Theodoric the Great, and S. ApoUinare in Classe, dating from about the same time. In the ninth century the relics of Apollinaris were transferred from the latter to the former. — Baedeker's 'Northern Italy' fed. 1886), pp. 340, 342. CHAPTER XXVI. ANNAT. Pagan or Christian? — Clach-na-h' -Annait — Tohar-na-H' -Annait — Teampull-na-h' -Annaif — Annoit Church— St N'tnians Chapel, Andat — Variations of name — Longannat — Annotturis — Annatland — Annat Hill, i^c. — Anatiscruik — Annatstoun — Cleidh-na-H' -Annait — Alt-na- H' -Annait — Anait — Anaid — Ach-na-H'-Anait — Balnahanait. Who or what was Annat, Pagan or Christian ? There are various examples of the word in Scottish topography, and some have sought to interpret these by a reference to Annat as a heathen divinity. Thus the writer of the article on Strath parish, Skye, in the ' N. S. A.,' ^ says : " In front of the minister's house there are the ruins of a place of worship ; and close to it stands a rude obelisk of granite, about ten feet high, perfectly erect. It is known by the appellation of Clach-na-h'-Annait — that is, the Stone of Annat, a goddess mentioned by the mythologists. Near this stone is a copious well of excellent water called Tobar- na-H'-Annait, or Annat's Fountain, in which it is probable the worshippers purified themselves." Muir takes a differ- ent view, for he calls the spring in question St Annat's Well.^ On the island of Killigray, off Harris, is another Tobar-na-H'-Annait, close to the vestiges of Teampull-na- H'-Annait. The well is situated on a point of land called Ru-na-H'-Annait — i.e., the Promontory of Annat. Colonel Robertson holds that Annat was a pagan divinity. He says : " This deity, called by the ancient Caledonian Gael ' Annat,' was the goddess ' of victory ' ; and the name 1 Inverness, p. 305. » Eccles. Notes, p. 34. AN NAT. 345 is known and mentioned by very ancient classical writers, who call her ' Andat ' and ' Andate ' ; and according to the custom of the Gael of contracting proper names, they called it 'Annat.' This heathen goddess, and another called 'Andraste,' or 'the god of justice,' are both mentioned by the ancient author Dio. The date of his work is a.d. 230, and he states them to be deities worshipped by Celtic nations." ^ Mr Charles Stewart, of Tigh-n'-Duin, Killin, expresses similar views as to Annat, and finds confirmation of them in a curious rite which he tells us was universally practised in his younger days, and in which he himself took part. He says : "It was celebrated after this fashion on the evening of the first Tuesday of the first spring moon. The whole household having assembled, a priestess was ap- pointed, who required to be either the eldest or youngest unmarried member of a family, and who, during the cere- mony, had to maintain perfect silence. She then proceeded to make cakes of oatmeal and eggs. One of these was large, and contained symbols, which, when ready, was cut up and used for purposes of divination. Of the smaller ones, some were eaten and some used for dreaming upon. In fact, it was the reverberation of the ancient worship of the queen of heaven by cakes. What connects it with our goddess is the name of the cakes, which were called Bonnich-Innait, or the Cakes of Innait, and the Tuesday sacred to the rite Dimairt Innait, or the Tuesday of Innait." ^ Even though one grants that there was a pagan divinity called Annat or Andate worshipped by the Celts, the admission does not explain the name as we find it in topography. At the most a coincidence is all that can be assumed. There is reason to believe that places called Annat were so styled because of their Christian associations. Mr Stewart, while advocating, as we have seen, the pagan origin of the name, allows that " in Christian times there were certainly places of worship at some of the Annaits." The name is found in a variety of forms. Mr Stewart gives ' Gaelic Topog., p. 265. - Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland, pp. 73, 74. 346 ANNAT. six — viz., Annait, Annat, Innit, Andat, Andate, and Annand, To these should be added other two at least — viz., Annot and Anaid. In his ' Gaelic Dictionary,' Dr Alexander Macbain gives as obsolete forms of the word Annaid and Annoid, and remarks : " Stokes refers it to Low Latin antitas, for antiquitas, ancient church." There may be a difference of opinion as to the etymology of the term, but its meaning is well known. We find the word applied to a particular kind of church, defined in the ' Ancient Laws of Ireland'^ as "the church in which the patron-saint was educated, or in which his reliques were kept." In like manner the Andoit- Church tribe is defined in the same work^ as "the tribe of the patron-saint." Skene observes: " It must be recollected that it is the presence of the saint's body that hallows the site of the monastery he has founded, and confers upon it the privileges of an Annoid, or mother church. Any spot to which his relics might be taken would be equally sacred in the eyes of the community, and the new monastery equally endowed with the privileges connected with them."^ It is not always possible to say precisely why an ecclesi- astical site known as Annat received its name; but it is safe to conclude that the patron-saint had some definite connection with the spot — either during his life or after his death — through his relics. There was a chapel to St Ninian on the lands of " Annit, otherwise Andat," in Meth- lick parish, Aberdeenshire ; but the name of the place may have been due to a connection with some saint other than St Ninian.* These lands were united, circa 1539, to the barony of Mekil Meithlick.^ In a charter of 1511 allusion is made to the Shadow -half of Andate in Aberdeenshire, doubtless the same as the lands at Methlick.'' As examples of different forms of the name may be mentioned Anat on the lands of Loch Eil, Annat in the barony of Loch Awe, Annatt in Strathearn, and Annot in Islay. This last is described in the charter' where it occurs as Annot vel Amott, the latter being found as Amot ' Vol. iii. p. 65, note. '^ P. 37. ' Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 300. * Collect. Aberdeen and Banff, p. 320. " R. M. S. « Ibid. ' Ibid. AN NAT. 347 in North Kintyre, and as Ammot in Sutherland. Annat is an estate in Kilspindie parish in the Carse of Gowrie ; but the name was given to it in recent times, the property having been formerly known as Rait. There is another Annat in Kilmadock parish in Menteith. The ecclesiastical nature of the site is indicated in the ' O. S. A.,'^ where we are told that a " chapel stood on the west brink of the glen of Annat, on a round hill which still retains the name of Kirkhill, and the marks of graves are still visible." Past it flows the Annat Burn. In the parish of Scone is Annaty- burn. Ross-shire has an Annat near Ardgye, and beside Loch Broom in the same shire is the hamlet of Annat, with a burying- ground styled Cladh-na-h'-Anaid. There was once a building at Annat known as Talla-na-h'-Anaid — i.e., the Hall of Annat (from Gaelic talla, a hall), but its stones were removed for building purposes. The hamlet stands on a bay called from it Bagh-na-h'-Anaid (Gaehc bagh, a bay). About a mile south-east of Kincardine-on-Forth, in Tulli- allan parish, is Longannat, noted for its freestone quarries. Mr David Beveridge says : " I have had a good deal of difiiculty with the etymology of the name of this place, but am now disposed to regard it simply as Longan-aite, ' the place of ships,' there being a fine roadstead for vessels in the immediate vicinity."^ This etymology is unlikely, as it inverts the arrangement usual in Gaelic compound words. One is tempted to regard long as equivalent to lann, a church ; but the origin of the word is obscure. In a charter temp. Robert II. (1371-90), Annotturis, in the barony of Durisdeer in Dumfriesshire, is mentioned ; but the meaning of the name is doubtful. We find Annatland in New Abbey parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, and in Tibber- mure parish, Perthshire. In Kirkinner parish, Wigtown- shire, is Annat Hill, on the farm of Kirkland of Longcastle.^ Another Annat Hill is in New Monkland parish, Lanark- shire.* Near Stirling is Craigannet; and in Crossmichael parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, is Ernanity, an altered form, according to Sir Herbert Maxwell, of Ardna-annuid, signify- ing the Height of the Church.^ 1 Vol. XX. p. 89. ^ Culross and Tulliallan, vol. ii. p. 379. » Gall. Top., p. 54. ^ R. M. S. * Gall. Top., p. 179. 348 ANNAT. In 1627 we read of a portion of land at Kintore in Aberdeenshire called Anatiscruik, and in 1635, of the lands of Annatstoun at Kinblathmonth, now Kinblethmont, in Inverkeillor parish, Forfarshire.i Annatfield is a small property in West Calder parish, Mid-Lothian. Two and a half miles south-east of Oban is Loch Nell, and near it is Cleidh-na-H'-Annait, or the graveyard of Annat. In his 'Loch Etive and the Sons of Uisnach,'^ Dr R. Angus Smith says regarding the place: "It is an old burying- ground, walled round, and remarkable for having two small cairns in it, as if it were a meeting of heathen and Christian habits — that is to say, if cairns were always heathen." Off Montrose, in Forfarshire, is Annat, a sandbank of which vessels entering the harbour have to be careful ; but it has probably no ecclesiastical associations. Forbes gives Ennet and Ennell as variants of the name.* Alt-na-H'- Annait in Glenorchy parish — i.e., the Burn of Annat — gets its name from an old burying-ground on its banks. It is thus referred to in Campbell's ' Book of Garth and For- tingall':* "The ' annait ' has got a strong topographical mortgage on ' Beinn-dorain,' for the corrie far above on the cloud-capped heights is called ' Coire-na-H'-Annait ' ; and the joyous stream bounding down from the corrie and passing more sedately by the old God's acre is 'Alt- na-H'-Annait.' " Near Dunvegan in Skye is a triangular piece of ground called Anait or Ainnit, formed by the confluence of two streams. When Dr Samuel Johnson visited Skye, he had a discussion with the minister of Kilmuir regarding the spot, the latter holding that it was a heathen temple of the goddess Anaitis.^ Boswell, in his ' Life of Johnson,' re- marks : " We walked what is called two miles, but is probably four, from the castle, till we came to the sacred place. The place itself is green ground, being well drained by means of a deep glen on each side, in both of which there runs a rivulet. The first thing we came to was an earthen mound or dyke extending from the one precipice 1 R. M. S. '^ p. 262. » Kal., s.v. "Annat." * P. 49- » O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 359. ANNAT. 349 to the other. A little farther on was a strong stone wall, not high but very thick, extending in the same manner. On the outside of it were the ruins of two houses, one on each side of the entry or gate to it. The wall is built all along of uncemented stones, but of so large a size as to make a very firm and durable rampart. It has been built all about the consecrated ground, except where the precipice is steep enough to form an enclosure of itself. The sacred spot contains more than two acres. There are within it the ruins of many houses, none of them large, a cairn, and many graves marked by clusters of stones. Mr M 'Queen insisted that the ruin of a small building, standing east and west, was actually the temple of the goddess Anaitis, where her statue was kept, and from whence processions were made to wash it in one of the brooks. There is a hollow road visible for a good way from the entrance ; but Mr M'Queen, with the keen eye of an antiquary, traced it much farther than I could perceive it. There is not above a foot and a half in height of the walls now remaining ; and the whole extent of the building was never, I imagine, greater than an ordinary Highland house." In Appin was Anaid with its chapel, giving name to the house, croft, and rivulet of Annat, mentioned in a charter of 1595, granted to Gillimichaell M'Ewin by Duncan Stewart of Appin.i Achna-H'-Anoid, at Leny in Glen - Urquhart, Inverness-shire, means the Field of the Church. Mr Wm. Mackay thinks that the cell there was probably the first built in Glen Urquhart.^ Bal-na-h'-nait or Balnahanaid is the name of a farm in Glen Lyon in Perthshire, and signifies the Town or Homestead of Annat. In 1870 a quadrangular Celtic bell was discovered between the wall and the eaves of an old cart-shed on the farm. Dr Joseph Anderson, who mentions this, remarks regarding the bell: " Its discovery was due to the fact that sometime previously Mr Charles Stewart, Tigh-n'-Duin, Killin, had directed the attention of Mr Robert Stewart, the farmer of Bal-na-h'-anait, to the significance of the name of his farm as indicating an ancient ecclesiastical connection ; and when the bell ' O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 167. ^ Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 336. 3 so ANN AT. was subsequently noticed by his nephew, its character was recognised, and it was thus saved from the fate which would otherwise have befallen it as an apparently worthless bit of old iron.i In front of Balnahanait farmhouse is an ancient and now disused burying-place where stone coffins have been unearthed.^ ^ Scotland in Early Christian Times, First Series, p. i8i. ° Christie's The Lairds and Lands of Loch Tayside, p. 44. CHAPTER XXVII. THE TEMPLARS. "Terra Templarie" — Military Order — Introduction into Scotland — The Hospitallers — Balantrodach — Temple — Templand — Templar residences — Preceptories — Patron Saint — St Germains — Templeton — Temple- house — Templehill — Templehall — Temple Acre, ^c Temple Craigtoun, ^c. — Templestanes — Use of Cross — Temple not always Templar. Some notes on the .influence of the Knights-Templars on Scottish Topography may be of interest, as showing what a hold these knights had on the land of the realm. When glancing over the charters in the ' R. M. S.,' one is struck with the recurrence of the phrase " terrae templariae " applied to portions of land once belonging to the Order. The names of many places, as we shall see, have temple either alone or in combination with some other word. The in- fluence of the knights was indeed widespread. As Spottis- wood remarks : " This Order was very rich, and had above 9000 Houses in Christendom ; and amongst us there was scarce a parish wherein they had not some lands, farms, or houses." ^ Even when their possessions were small, care was taken, in later times, that they should not be lost sight of. Thus we find a charter, of 19th December 1620, granted "to Sir Robert MacWillam of a temple-land in the midst of his eight merkland of Kirkchrist extending to three acres of land or thereabouts, and of another temple-land lying in the midst of his lands of Chapelton, extending to six acres or thereabouts in the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright." ^ The military order of the Templars took its rise early in ^ Keith's Bishops, p. 435. ^ Templaria. 352 THE TEMPLARS. the twelfth century in connection with the Crusades. It was founded in 1118 or 1119 by nine French knights, chief among whom were Hugh de Payens and Geoffroy de St Omer, for the purpose of guarding the Holy Sepulchre and the roads traversed by pilgrims to its shrine. Baldwin II., King of Jerusalem, gave the knights a settlement on the site of the Temple, and hence they were known as Brethren of the Soldiery of Solomon's Temple (" Fratres Militise Templi Salamonis"). Pope Honorius gave them his bless- ing; and the statutes of the Order were drawn up by St Bernard of Clairvaux at the Council of Troyes in 1127. The members of the Fraternity took the usual monastic vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, but their life differed widely from the monastic ideal. As J. A. Froude says : " They were not humble men of peace, meek recluses, whose time was divided between cloister and garden, whose chief duty was to sing masses for the souls of erring mankind. They were soldiers to whom peace was never known, who were to be for ever in the field on desperate and dangerous errands. They were men of fiery temper, hot of blood and hard of hand, whose sinew had to be maintained in as much efficiency as their spirits. They wore a white mantle — emblem of purity ; and on their left shoulder was displayed a red cross with eight points, conferred at a later date by Pope Eugenius III. Their standard was black and white, and bore the motto, ' Non nobis, non nobis, Domine, sed nomini tuo da gloriam.' Hunting and hawking were for- bidden, but special exception was made in the case of lions, which the knights were allowed to destroy. The Order grew rapidly in numbers and wealth."^ Thoughout Europe gifts of land were bestowed on the knights, and they had various privileges granted by the Popes, such as exemption from tithe, feudal service, and interdict. They enjoyed self-government, being under the rule of the Grand Master, who was elected by the Order, and was responsible to the Pope alone. For administrative purposes Western Europe was divided into eleven provinces, England including Ireland, and Scotland and Wales being ' Vide the Templars in the 'Spanish Story of the Armada,' by J. A. Froude. THE TEMPLARS. 353 one.^ The Templars were deemed worthy of trust in money matters, and treasure was often deposited with them for safe keeping. Thus, certain sums collected in Scotland for crusading purposes by a friar - preacher of Ayr, — Ivo by name, — and deposited in Whithorn Priory, were ordered in 1262 to be sent either to the House of the Templars in London or to a certain firm of Floren- tine merchants.^ The Templars were settled in London about the year 1135, and were introduced into Scotland during the reign of David I. (1124-53). David made them his spiritual guides,* and gave them a settlement at Balantrodach, now Arniston, in Mid-Lothian, on the South Esk. Surviving documents supply but few particulars regarding the life of the Scottish Templars. Mr Robert Aitken remarks : " Our old chroniclers, while sometimes describing the exploits of the Templars in Palestine, never mention the organisation, estates, or membership of the Order at home, nor does the list of our extant monastic chartularies include any collec- tion relating to a preceptory of Scottish Templars. The early extinction of the Order, and the probable fact that most of its Scottish muniments were kept elsewhere than in Scotland, will help to account for this want of information." * Their prosperity reached its high -tide mark during the thirteenth century. Chalmers says : " In 1236 Alexander IL granted a charter to the Knights of the Temple con- firming the donations of his predecessors, and by private subjects, of lands, men, revenues, churches, and other property to be held with ample jurisdiction. He exempted them from all toll, in fairs, at the passage of bridges, roads, and seas throughout his whole kingdom. And he gave to them and their men various other privileges, exemptions, and special protections for themselves, their lands, and goods." ^ Towards the end of the same century the ' "The Knig-hts- Templars in Scotland," p. 5, by R. Aitken in 'The Scottish Review,' July 1898. ^ Papal Registers (Letters), vol. i. p. 384. 2 Pinkerton's Lives of the Scottish Saints (ed. 1889), vol. ii. p. 276. * The Scottish Review, July 1898, p. 2. ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 768. Z 354 THE TEMPLARS. Templars were brought into connection with Edward I., when the king was in the north endeavouring to subvert the liberties of Scotland. In 1291 Friar Brian de Jay.i Preceptor of the Soldiery of the Temple in Scotland, swore fealty to Edward in his chamber in Edinburgh Castle ; and five years later, Friar Johan de Sautre, Master of the Chivalry of the Temple in Scotland, did the same at Berwick-on-Tweed.^ As a reward for this submission, the Templars had their lands which had been forfeited by Edward restored to them. The fall of the Templars came suddenly. Early in the fourteenth century a plot was hatched between PhiHp IV. of France and the weak pope, Clement V., who too easily yielded to the pressure of the French king. The king wanted money, and the Templars were rich. Why should not their wealth become his ? There may have been other motives guiding Philip, but there is reason to believe that lust of gold strongly influenced his conduct. He sent to the Pope a series of grave charges against the members of the Fraternity, accusing them of sorcery, apostacy, and various forms of immorality. On December 10, 1307, Edward II. of England wrote to the Pope that he could not credit the horrible charges brought against the Templars, as they bore a good name throughout his realm. Neverthe- less within the next few days he ordered their apprehension in England, and five days later sent out instructions for their simultaneous arrest in Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. On 29th September 1309 the king ordained that the Scottish and Irish Templars should be sent to Dublin to be ex- amined ; but as regards Scotland he seems to have suddenly changed his mind, for five days later he requested that the inquisitor sent thither to examine the knights should be respectfully treated, and about the same time ordered that those of them who were still at large north of the Tweed should be arrested and kept in safe custody.* Severe ' Brian de Jay was killed at the battle of Falkirk in 1298. Bainsford, formerly Briansford, in its neighbourhood, is said to have derived its name from him. — Vide 'Scottish Place-Names of Scotland,' i.zi. "Bainsford." ^ Calendar of Scottish Documents, vol. ii. pp. 125, 202. ' Syllabus of Rymer's ' Fcedera,' vol. i. pp. 148, 149, 158, 159. In THE TEMPLARS. 355 measures were taken in France. History has much to tell of the sufferings of the Templars there from the morning of October 13, 1307, when they were flung into prison, till the evening of March 18, 1314, when their Grand Master, Jacques de Molay, and one of the preceptors were burned to death at Paris. In Germany and on this side of the Channel, the knights, though kept in prison for some time and despoiled of their possessions, were not subjected to personal violence.^ The Order was formally abolished by a papal Bull of Clement in March 1312. On the suppression of the Templars their possessions in most of the European countries passed to the rival order of the Hospitallers, otherwise known as the Knights of St John of Jerusalem. In 1313 Edward II. of England, in obedience to the command of the Pope, ordered the delivery to the Hospitallers of the lands, churches, and tenements formerly belonging to the Templars, and at the same time instructed the sheriffs of thirty -seven counties to protect the Hospitallers in obtaining possession of the same.^ In Scotland, too. Temple property became Hospital property, and continued such till the Reformation. In later times we find traces of the double ownership. Thus, in a Peebles- shire Retour of April 10, 1683, certain Templar lands are said to comprise the lands of St John's Hill and St John's Croft, named after the patron -saint of the Hospitallers. A large part of the estate of Whitehaugh, in Tullynessle and Forbes parish, belonged to the Templars. One of its fields is known as Temple Close, and another as St John's Close.^ In a precept of 8th August 1615 we read of the three-quarter temple-land called the temple-land of St John, in the barony of Menstries and sheriffdom of Clackmannan.* This change of ownership led to confusion regarding the ' Spottiswoode Miscellany,' vol. ii. pp. 7-16, is a " Processus Factus contra Templarios in Scotia, 1309," regarding which the editor remarks: "A perusal of this document leads to a conviction that the charges brought against the Templars, at least so far as regards this country, were un- founded, and that the persecution of the Pope arose from jealousy or cupidity — probably both." ' Chartularies of Torphichen and Drem, p. 2. 2 Syllabus, vol. i. p. 181. ^ N. S. A., Aberdeen, p. 447. * Chartulary of Drem, p. 6. 3S6 THE TEMPLARS. original possessors of certain lands. Not only did temple lands retain their name after passing to the Hospitallers, but the same designation was likewise applied in certain cases to the original possessions of the Knights of St John.i Balantrodach, already referred to, was the chief seat of the Templars in Scotland, and their House there was called " Domus Templi in Scotia." ^ We find a reminiscence of the name in Temple parish, formed after the Reformation by the union of the ancient parish of Clerkington with the chapelries of Morthwait and Balantrodach. Long before that date, however, the barony of Balantrodach was also known as Temple. In the fifteenth century an attempt was made by Sir William Knolls, Preceptor of Torphichen, who had acquired the lands of Halkerston adjoining Balan- trodach, to substitute the name of Temple for that of Halkerston ; but the attempt failed, even though backed up by an Act of Parliament.^ The pre-Reformation church of Temple was used as a place of worship till about 1832, when a new one was built. It is now an interesting ruin, measuring 55 feet by 17 feet 9 inches internally, and con- tains a piscina, sedilia, and an arched recess some six feet long, thought to have been an Easter sepulchre. The exact date of the structure is not known ; but there is reason to believe that it belongs to the fourteenth century, and that it was begun by the Templars and finished by the Hospitallers.* Temple is found elsewhere in Scotland — e.g., in the parishes of Marykirk, Scone, Largo, and St Boswells. A farm in Kinneff parish, Kincardineshire, is known as The Temple. Near Glasgow, in New Kilpatrick parish, is Temple ; and not far off are Knightswood and Jordanhill. ' That temple was thus used goes to show that the name was held in repute in Scotland after the Order was abolished. ^ There is a tradition that the foundations of a large building were dis- covered in the seventeenth century in a garden in the neighbourhood. — 'Scottish Review,' July 1898, p. 6. ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 813, note. * Transactions of Edinburgh Architectural Association, vol. i. p. 32 ; and MacGibbon and Ross's Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 491. THE TEMPLARS. 357 In Eaglesham parish is the farm of Temples, and there is a Temples on the lands of Buteland in Currie parish. Lands of the Templars are represented in topography by Templand, Templeland, and Templelands. Thus we find Templand near Cumnock, and in the parishes of Lochmaben and Benholme ; Templeland in those of Forgue, Kenneth- mont, Colinton, Dreghorn, and Stevenston ; and Temple Lands in those of Leslie (Aberdeenshire), Kinneff, Inver- keilor, Forteviot, Carnbee, Corstorphine, Dairy, Biggar, Kirkurd, Oxnam, and Tinwald. It is not to be presumed that the knights were necessarily resident on lands bearing the name of their Order. In addition to their House at Balantrodach, they had establishments in various districts. The principal of these, according to Spottiswood, were at Aboyne and Tulloch in Aberdeenshire, Maryculter in Kin- cardineshire, Oggerstone ^ in Stirlingshire, and St Germains in East Lothian. Spottiswood adds : " Inchinan, in the shire of Renfrew, also belonged to them, with several other places in Eskdale, and towards the border of England." The ancient church of Inchinnan, built where the present parish church stands, was removed in 1828, and when the ' floor was dug up it was found paved with skulls.^ In the churchyard are four large slabs, evidently the lids of stone coffins, bearing an incised sword, and locally known as " The Templars' Graves."^ Inchinnan church was granted to the Order by David I., and when the other churches of Strath- gryfe were bestowed on Paisley Abbey by its founder, Walter Fitz-Alan, the church in question was specially excepted,* The church of Aboyne, with its chapels, lands, tithes, &c., became the property of the Templars in the thirteenth cen- tury, having been given to them by Radulphus, Bishop of ' Spottiswood calls Ogfg^erstone a fort and barony founded by St David. "As a matter of fact," observes Mr Aitken, "'baillia de Ogereston apud Stiucle' was not in Scotland at all, but within the territory belonging to the English earldom of Huntingdon." — 'Scottish Review,' ut supra, p. 11. 2 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 78. * N. S. A., Renfrew, p. 124. "Near the ruined church of St Kentigerna, on Inchcailleach in Loch Lomond, is a stone called The Templar's Grave, having no lettering, but marked by an incised sword with I P S on the hilt."— J. Guthrie Smith's 'Strathendrick,' p. 101. * Reg. de Passelet, p. 5. 3S8 THE TEMPLARS. Aberdeen, and confirmed to them by Alexander II. in 1241.* The writer of the article on Aboyne in the 'N. S. A.'* observes : " It is a remarkable fact that some fields near the castle still bear the name of Tiran Teampull— i.e., the Templars' Ground." Certain lands at Maryculter were granted to the Templars by "William the Lion. On the other side of the Dee was the church of Peterculter, be- longing in 1287 to Kelso Abbey. In that year the knights obtained from the abbot the privilege of having a chapel on their own lands, mainly on the ground that the Dee had no bridge there, and was often difficult to cross. " The chapelry," remarks Cosmo Innes, " soon rose into a separate parish, and in this transaction we have the origin of the parishes of Peterculter and Maryculter, separated by the Dee." ^ Dr A. Walker tells us that the Templars' church at Maryculter was used as the parish church till towards the end of the eighteenth century, and adds : " A portion of one of the walls of this old building is still standing. Part of the walls of the preceptory were included in the walls of the residence built by Sir Gilbert Menzies, the proprietor of Maryculter, erected in 1728. There was pre- served, on the farm of Tilburies in the neighbourhood, a carved black oak door, said to have been the door of the room of the Grand Master."* It is not, however, likely that this door dates from Templar times. Mr John Edwards mentions that while the Templars had upwards of forty preceptories in England, they had only two in Scotland — viz., Balantrodach and Maryculter. As Mr Edwards re- minds us, " Preceptories were established for a twofold purpose : (i) as a recruiting-ground and training-school for the young members of the Order ; and (2) as a source of revenue. Every preceptor required to make a periodical return of his revenue and expenditure, and remit the balance, if any, to headquarters, to be applied to the general purposes of the Order." ^ ' Reg. Episc. Aberdeen, vol. ii. p. 273. ' Aberdeen, p. 1055. ^ Sketches of Early Scotch History, p. 14. •■ The Knights Templar in and around Aberdeen. " " The Temple Barony of Maryculter " in Trans. Glasgow ArchEBological Society, New Series, vol. iv. p. 196. THE TEMPLARS. 359 The Templars had the Virgin as the patroness of their Order, and one is disposed to look for traces of her cultus in localities where they owned land. At Inchinnan, for instance, the church had an altar to the Virgin, and con- nected with it was Lady Acre. There is a Lady's Well at Aboyne, and the name of Maryculter contains that of the Virgin herself. The knights had land in Ardersier parish, Inverness-shire, where fragments of a large building were visible till the beginning of the eighteenth century at Dalyards. The building was surrounded by a fosse, which was still to be seen in 1841.^ Aberdeen was also a home of the Templars. Kennedy says : "A branch of this Order had a convent and church situated at the east end of the Castlegate, in the lane which was formerly distinguished by the name of Skipper Scott's Close. Those knights had also acquired some property in the Nether Kirkgate, and in other parts of the town." ^ The name of St Germains in East Lothian, already re- ferred to, is undoubtedly old, for in the Ragman Rolls, under date 1296, we read of " Bartholomeu mestre de la meson de Seint Germeyn." In assigning St Germains to the Templars, Spottiswood is in error, and his mistake has been perpetuated by later writers. In 1494-95 the House of St Germains and most of its revenues were handed over by James IV. to the newly-founded college of St Mary's (afterwards King's) at Old Aberdeen. It is an interesting circumstance that the college, in addition to being dedicated to the Virgin, had, among other patrons, St Germanus.^ A Bull of annexation was granted by Pope Alexander VI. on gth February 1495-96, and in it the Master of the Hos- pital is described as in the regular habit of the Order of the Cross-bearers with the Star (of Bethlehem) under the rule of St Augustine ("in habitu regulari ordinis crucifer- orum cum stella sub regula Sti. Augustini ").* These Cross- bearers had a number of Houses throughout Europe in medieval times. They looked after the sick, &c., but were different from the Hospitallers or Knights of St John. 1 N. S. A., Inverness, p. 470. ^ Annals of Aberdeen, vol. ii. p. 77. 3 Exchequer Rolls of Scotland, vol. xi. p. 67, note. * Fasti Aberdonenses, p. 9. 360 THE TEMPLARS. Dr T. G. Law informs me that " they had a black habit with a red cross with three points, under which was a red star attached to the left side." Dr Law adds : " The cross comes not from the crusades, but from legends connected with St Helena's discovery of the cross at Jerusalem." There were Templar lands at Kinblethmont in Inver- keilor parish, Forfarshire, where we still find a Templeton.^ Newtyle in the same county, and Kildrummy in Aberdeen- shire, have each a Templeton. The name is probably not a very ancient one, and does not imply that the knights had a residence on the land so named. The word points to some toun or collection of houses built on Temple property. Cognate in meaning is Temple House, occurring in the parishes of Loudoun and Currie. The Peel-tower, at " Town of Manner " in Peeblesshire, was known as the Temple- House, because it and some adjoining lands were at one time the property of the Templars.^ Templehill is found in different parts of the country — e.g., in the parishes of Loudoun, Eddleston, Muthill, Glenbervie, and Cupar. Black, in his 'History of Brechin,'^ says: " There are pieces of ground — one on the estate of Southesk at Dalgetty, called the Templehill, and another on the estate of Cairnbank, close by Brechin — bearing the title of 'Templehill of Bothers.'" There is a Temple-hall in the parishes of Ormistoun, Aberdour, and Hopkirk, and on the lands of Castle-Huntly in Longforgan parish. Meigle parish has a Temple Hall, where in 1858 some ancient sculptured stones were accidentally discovered in an old corn kiln.* In Whitsome parish, Berwickshire, there was once a col- lection of cottages known as Temple Hall. In the neigh- bourhood was a spring called Temple- Well, and in the same parish some acres went by the name of Temple-lands.* At Wallans, in Carluke parish, is a fragment of a place of strength known as Castle- Wallans or Temple-Hall.* A piece of land in the ancient parish of Mow, united to Morebattle in the seventeenth century, was known as Temple Acre. We find a Temple Croft at Harlaw in Aber- ' Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 325. '•' N. S. A., Peebles, p. 116. " Pp- 256, 257. ' Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 294. " N. S. A., Berwick, p. 172. " Ibid., Lanark, p. 582. THE TEMPLARS. 361 deenshire, at Cowie near Stonehaven, at Cathkin in Lanark- shire, and at Dargo near Invergowrie. The last, in evident ignorance of the origin of its name, was styled in a charter, in 1642, Triple Croft. There is a Temple Croft on the estate of Thornton in Bourtie parish, Aberdeenshire. Turriff, in the same shire, has a Temple - Brae and a Temple- Feu to the south of the town. We find Temple- field between Nisbet and Gladsmuir in Haddingtonshire, Templefurde near Arbroath, Templebank in Fordoun parish, Kincardineshire, " Temple Bog Wod " at Ayr, and Temple Hirst (i.e., Wood) in the Barony of Balantrodach.^ Such names as Temple Craigtoun in Abercorn parish, Temple- Essie in Essie parish, and Temple Liston, now Kirkliston, in the Lothians, tell of Templar ownership. So does Temple-Denny, the upper division of Denny parish, Stir- lingshire, where part of the land was known as the Guirth — i.e., the Sanctuary.^ Temple-stanes ^ is a farm in Rafford parish, Elginshire, two and a half miles from Forres. The late Dr James Macdonald favoured me with the following facts, procured from a firiend in the north, and throwing light on the second half of the name : " Near the farmhouse are four upright stones, rough, and now at least bearing no marks of any tool. They make more of a square than of a circle, and occupy a space of about ten feet square. But there are appearances of other stones between them. Two of the four are higher than the other two, measuring three feet six inches to four feet." The first half of the name is not so clear, though one is inclined to believe that the farm was part of a Templar manor. A survival of Templar ownership was to be found in modern times in the presence of a cross on houses built on ground once the property of the Order. Chambers, in his 'Traditions of Edinburgh,'* says that there were houses at Bowfoot, and along one side of the Grass- ' Chartularies of Torphichen and Drera, p. 23. ^ N. S. A., Stirling, p. 117. " Some prehistoric standing stones, called the Kemple or Temple Stanes, stood on Boath Hill in Carmyllie parish till early last century.—' N. S. A.,' Forfar, p. 357. * P. 64. 362 THE TEMPLARS. market, bearing a cross "on some conspicuous part, — either an actual iron cross or one represented in sculpture. The explanation is that these houses were built upon lands originally the property of the Knights-Templars, and the cross has ever since been kept up upon them, not from any veneration for that ancient society, neither upon any kind of religious ground : the sole object has been to fix in remem- brance certain legal titles and privileges which have been transmitted into secular hands from that source, and which are to this day productive of solid benefits. A hundred years ago the houses thus marked were held as part of the barony of Drum in Haddingtonshire, the baron of which used to hold courts in them occasionally." At the time when Chambers wrote the first edition of the work just named (viz., in 1825), he tells us that there was only one house thus distinguished. In ' Templaria ' ^ is the following entry: "Temple Court Book, beginning eighth June 1710, and ending twenty-fourth August 1731, wherein the vassals from several counties compear, and give suit and presence in the said Court, produce their writs, and the Bailie or- daining the Cross of St John to be affixed on the Temple Lands within the burgh, and ammerciating such as did not affix the said cross." Temple sometimes occurs in our topography, particularly in the Highlands, without having any connection with the Templars. In this case it is merely the Gaelic teampull, signifying a church, and applied, as Petrie has pointed out, to one of stone. ^ In Ireland the word occurs repeatedly, there being, according to Joyce, fifty parish names beginning with the word temple.^ Among the Western Islands we find such names as Teampull Pheadair, St Peter's Church, in Lewis ; Teampull Patrick, St Patrick's Church, in Tiree ; and Teampull Rona, St Ronan's Church, on North Rona. Near Crossapoll, in Tiree, is a piece of ground called Templefield, so named from a chapel whose site alone re- mains. There is another Templefield near the head of Kyle of Tongue in Sutherland. In the parish of Urquhart and Glenmoriston we find Temple (An Teampull), dedicated to ' P. 8. ^ Ecclesiastical Architecture of Ireland, p. 144. ' Irish Place-Naraes, p. 306. THE TEMPLARS. 363 St Ninian, and Templehouse (Tigh an Teampuill), probably, as Mr MacKay suggests, the residence of the officiating cleric.^ In Knockbain parish is James's-Temple, consisting of the remains of some standing stones to the east of the spot where the clan battle of Blair-na-Coi is said to have been fought, in the thirteenth or fourteenth century, between the Macdonalds and the inhabitants of Inverness.^ In Fodderty parish, Ross-shire, we find Temple Croft (Gaelic Croicht-an-Teampuil). It is situated a little north of the burying-ground, and in it several stone coffins were at one time dug up.* > Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 585. ^ O. S. A., vol. xii. p. 273, note. ^ N. S. A., Ross, p. 252. CHAPTER XXVIII. HOSPITALS. Spittal — Tsbytty — Mediieval hospitals — Glenshee, isfc — Dalnaspldal — Hos- pices of religious houses — ^^ Hospitalities" — Trinity Friars — Trinity Hospital, Soutra, and Edinburgh — Hospital of St Mary Magdalene, Edinburgh, and Rutherford — Maison Dieu, Jedburgh — Other Rox- burghshire hospitals — Bertvickshire — Dumfriesshire — St Leonard's Hospital, Peebles — Galloivay — St Leonard' s Hospital, Lanark — Biggar — Carn'wath — Cambuslang — Rutherglen — Polmadie — Glasgow — Lennox — St Cuthbert's Hospital, Ballencrief, Isfc. — St Mary Magda- lene' s Hospital, Linlithgow — Torphichen and the Hospitallers — Mid- Lothian — Stirling — Fife — Perthshire — Hospital-field — Montrose — Brechin — Shires of Elgin, Aberdeen, and Ross — St Magnus's Hospital, Caithness — Leper Hospitals. Spittal occurs repeatedly in Scottish topography, and points to the existence of an hospital at or near the place so named. In England, too, we find Spittal, and in Wales Ysbytty, from Latin hospitium. The word itself, however, fails to tell us the exact nature of the charitable foundation in any given case. Mediaeval hospitals^ were founded for a variety of purposes. Sir J. Y. Simpson says : " Some of the hospitals in these early times were founded for the reception of the sick and infirm, others for lepers, many ^ A law was passed in Scotland on the sixth of March 1457 — temp. James IL — anent the reformation of hospitals. " It is sene spedfuU that Our Soverane Lord charge his chancellar quhilk of lawe aucht to vesy the hos- pitalys fudyt be the king, and paj iune to him the ordinar of ilk diocese and other twa persons of good conscience to visit the said Hospitalles. And quhair they can get the foundations of them to garre them be keiped. And quhair na foundation can be gotten to make inquisition of the cuntrie, and refer to the King to see the remeid therefore." — ' Acts of Scots Parliaments,' vol, ii. p. 49. HOSPITALS. 365 for the poor and aged, and a considerable number for the gratuitous entertainment of pilgrims and travellers." ^ When speaking of the mountainous district where the shires of Perth, Kincardine, and Aberdeen meet, Mr A. J. Warden remarks : " The Spital was one of the benevolent institutions of the Romish Church. The passes leading over the Cairnwell, the Capel, and the Cairn-o'-Mount are long, bleak, lonely ways, destitute of accommodation for pilgrims or travellers. In each of these they erected a spital, in which attendants and provisions were kept for man and beast journeying over them. The Spital of Glen- shee, south of the Cairnwell, was one of these. Another was the Spital of Glen Muick, close by the loch of that name, on the north side of the Capel. The third was the Spital of Glen Dye to the north of the Cairn-o'-Mount."^ The first of these is still remembered in the hamlet of Spittal of Glenshee at the head of the glen, 1125 feet above the sea; and the last in Spittal Burn in Strachan parish, Kincardineshire. There is another Spital Burn in Nigg parish in the same shire, which falls into the Dee between Potheugh and Kincorth. Jervise thinks that " the name possibly shows that the abbots of Arbroath had a hospice or lodging there, for the convenience of pilgrims and travellers when on their way to and from the North." ^ No one travelling on the Highland Railway from Perth to Inverness can fail, if interested in scenery, to notice how wild the country becomes after Blair Atholl is passed. Fifteen miles north of that station, at the height of more than 1350 feet, is Dalnaspidal, amid a tract of moorland charming enough when the autumn sun is shining on the heather, but eminently dreary amid the snows of winter.* Near the station is the shooting-lodge of Dalnaspidal. The name means the Field of the Hospital, and recalls the hospice that sheltered many a weary wayfarer. No remains of the building, however, are now to be seen. Dr Rogers remarks : " By religious houses ' hospices ' were in the ^ Archseol. Essays, vol. ii. p. 20, note. ^ Angus, vol. i. p. 18. ' Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 18. * The summit level, some two miles north of Dalnaspidal station, is 1484 feet above the sea. 366 HOSPITALS. adjacent town leased on condition that strangers as well as their own members might be lodged and entertained. By the Cistercian abbey of Cupar were owned two hospices at Perth and one at Dundee. The abbey also provided ' spitals,' or houses of refreshment, in isolated locahties. These were leased with the condition that food and pro- vender were kept for man and horse." ^ In former times hospitals were known in Scotland under the name of " hospitalities." Thus we read in the ' Register of the Privy Council,' ^ that by a royal decree dated 15th Feb- ruary 1561-62, it was ordained that " all annuellis, males and dewiteis within fre burrowis or utheris townis of this realme " were to be collected for behoof of " hospitalities, scolis, and utheris godlie usis." The Trinity or Red Friars, styled also Mathurines, from their house in Paris dedicated to St Mathurin, were estab- lished about 1 198 for the purpose of redeeming Christians who had been made slaves by the infidels, one-third of the revenues of the Order being devoted to that object. Their houses were called hospitals or ministries.^ Spottiswood, in his ' Account of Religious Houses,' mentions that their house at Aberdeen, founded by William the Lion, was built "where now the Trades Hospital stands, and Trinity Church."* About seventeen miles to the south-east of Edinburgh once stood Trinity Hospital near the summit of Soutra Hill, at the height of 1184 feet above the sea. It was founded by Malcolm IV. in 1164 for behoof of pilgrims, the poor, and the sick. From the ' N. S. A.'* we leain that "a causeway, leading from the vale of the Tweed to Soutra, and still traceable among the sinuosities of the mountains, bore the significant name of Girthgate, meaning the Asylum or Sanctuary Road." An aisle of the church, still used as a family burial-vault, is now all that remains ' Social Life in Scotland, vol. i. p. 73. ^ Vol. i. p. 202. ' Spottiswood says: "By a bull of Pope Innocent III., dated the 21st June 1209, it appears that they had six monasteries in Scotland whilst he was pope. Thereafter the number increased amongst us, and at the Reformation we find mention of thirteen houses." His list, however, is not quite accurate. * Keith's Bishops, p. 395. » Mid-Lothian, p. 536. HOSPITALS. 367 of the hospital buildings. A spring in its neighbourhood, known as Tarnty or Trinity Well, was much resorted to in mediaeval times by health -seekers. When, in 1462, Mary of Gueldres, wife of James II., founded Trinity Church and Hospital in Edinburgh at the north corner of Leith Wynd, she transferred the endowments of the Soutra hospital to the new charity. The latter was designed " for the maintenance and clothing of thirteen poor persons." The building was removed in 1845 in connection with the construction of the North British Railway. The hospital of St Mary Magdalene, for the support of seven poor men, was situated in the Cowgate, east of the Greyfriars' monastery. It was founded early in the sixteenth century on the site of a Maison Dieu which had then become ruinous. In the ' Register of the Privy Council of Scot- land,'* under date 1590, we read of "collector, bedes- men, and hospitallers of Sanct Marie Magdalen." The chapel of the hospital, with its remains of ancient stained glass, is still an interesting landmark of old Edinburgh.^ Cosmo Innes tells us that at Rutherford, in Maxton parish, Roxburghshire, were an hospital and chapel, "dedi- cated to Saint Mary Magdalen, or, according to the earliest records, to the Virgin Mary." ^ Writing in 1834, the author of the parish article in the ' N. S, A.'* says: "Of these buildings there are now no remains ; but the church- yard, which had long ceased to be a burying-place, was ploughed up only about twenty-five years ago, and the grave-stones were broken and thrown into drains by an improving farmer." Roxburghshire, indeed, was well sup- plied with charitable institutions. Jedburgh had a Maison Dieu founded at an early date ; but there are now no traces of the building, though its land is still known as the Maison Dieu Acres. Its master swore fealty to Edward I.° in 1296. On the right bank of the Teviot opposite the castle of Roxburgh, at a hamlet called by Blaeu Maison Dieu, once ' Vol. iv. p. 502. ^ Wilson's Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time, vol. ii. p. 400. ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 298. * Roxburgh, p. u8. * Jeffrey's History of Roxburghshire, vol. ii. p. 108. 368 HOSPITALS. stood the preceptory or Maison Dieu of Roxburgh, dedi- cated to St Mary Magdalene. Morton, in his 'Monastic Annals of Teviotdale,' ^ tells us that " on the spot which was once its garden, daffodils and primroses still continue to spring up annually." There was also an hospital in Cavers parish. Cosmo Innes says regarding it: "In the extreme north of the parish existed an hospital, whose site, though its nature and purpose are forgotten, is commem- orated by the usual abbreviation of its name — the term ' Spital.' " ^ The spot being near the Rule Water, was formerly known as Spittalroull. The Knights of St John of Jerusalem had a preceptory or hospital at Ancrum, whose site is identified by Morton with the " Maltan Walls," where vestiges of buildings were visible till about 1837. In 1606 the R. M. S. has a reference to "terras dominicales de Spittel vocatas Ancrum-spittell." The parish of Crailing comprises the ancient district of Spittal, at one time included in the parish of Jedburgh, and named from an hospital which stood on the site of the Marquess of Lothian's mansion of Monteviot, on the north bank of the winding Teviot. Till about 1835 there were traces of a burying-ground near the site of the mansion,* connected doubtless with the hospital. In 1606, among other lands in the neighbourhood, the ' R. M. S.' mentions Spittelstanes.* In Eckford parish, on the right bank of the Kale near its junction with the Teviot, is a place known as Spittelbanck or Hospital Lands, where at one time an hospital for lepers is believed to have stood.® In Ednam parish are the lands of Spittal, so called from an hospital dedicated to St Leonard.^ The canons of Dryburgh Abbey own some land at Ednam, which they granted "to the master and congregation of the hospital of St Leonard at ' P. 320- ' o. P. S., vol. i. p. 337. ^ N. S. A., Roxburgh, p. 181, note. * It is possible that Spittlestanes may have been connected with the Knights of St John at Ancrum, already referred to. Some land near Biggar in Lanarkshire, belonging to the knights in question, was named "The Stane."— 'O. P. S.,' vol. i. p. 133. » O. P. S., vol. i. p. 397. ° As may be seen from other examples in this chapter, St Leonard was often chosen as patron of hospitals. HOSPITALS. 369 Edinham for half a mark and a pound of incense yearly." ^ There is also a Spittal in Smailholm parish. The origin of the hospital at Hassendean is thus noticed by Morton : ^ "There was a dispute between King William and Josceline, Bishop of Glasgow, concerning the patronage of the church of Hastanden, which they both claimed ; and as it could not be otherwise satisfactorily settled, they agreed that the revenues and property of the said church should be devoted to some work of charity. The bishop, therefore, with the consent of the king, conferred the patronage thereof, with its lands, tithes, and dues, upon the convent at Melros, to be expended in founding and maintaining a house of hos- pitality at Hastanden for the reception and entertainment of the wayfaring poor, and pilgrims journeying to Melros Abbey. The hospital was afterwards called Monks' Tower." So much for Roxburghshire. Hospitals can also be traced in other Border counties. There was one at Leger- wood in Berwickshire, for, as Spottiswood tells us, Nicol de Lychardeswode, guardian of the hospital there, swore fealty to Edward I. of England in 1296. Lauder, too, had an hospital at that time, for in the year just mentioned the name of its master is recorded.^ Chalmers states that it was dedicated to St Leonard, and alludes to two hamlets near its site called Over and Nether Spital. St Leonard is the name of a property in the neighbourhood.* St John's Hospital in Hutton parish, founded before 1296, has given name to Spittal Mains and Spittal House. Berwick,^ accord- ing to Chalmers, had two hospitals — a Domus Dei and St Mary's, and, close to the town, another dedicated to St Mary Magdalene.^ There were also hospitals in Strafontane parish at Aldcamus and at Horndean, the last having had St Leonard as patron. Dumfriesshire, according to Chalmers, had hospitals at Sanquhar, Holy wood, and in the ancient parish of Trail- ' Morton's Monastic Annals, p. 305. ^ Ibid., p. 272. ' Keith's Bishops, p. 476. * Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 348. ' One mile south-east of Berwick, on the south side of the Tweed, is Spittal, a sea-bathing- resort, deriving its name, in all probability, from St Bartholomew's Hospital at Tweedmouth. — Dugdale's 'Monasticon Angli- canum,' vol. vii. p. 772. ' Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 347. 2 A 370 HOSPITALS. trow, united to Cummertrees in i6og ; and a preceptory of the Knights of St John at Ruthwell. In addition to these he mentions an hospital near Annan, to the south, at a place called Spital; and another to the north-west of the town giving name to How-Spital and Spital-ridding.^ Amis- field, in Tinwald parish, had a Spittelrig ; and in the neigh- bouring parish of Lochmaben was the dyke of Spittelrig.^ Peeblesshire had an hospital for the infirm and poor a mile and a half to the east of the county town. The exact date of its foundation is uncertain, but it was in existence about the middle of the fourteenth century. It is usually called St Leonard's Hospital, but sometimes St Lawrence's.* About a mile and a half farther to the east is Spittalhope Burn, and a mile up the burn from the Tweed is Spittel- hauche. Close to the river Lyne, fully a mile to the south of West Linton, is " a place called Spittelhaugh, beside which is a park called Chapel Hill, where several stone coffins have been found, denoting, perhaps, that here of old stood an hospital and a chapel. A neighbouring spring, which bears the name of Paul's Well, probably preserves the name of the apostle under whose invocation they were placed." 4 We also find examples in Galloway. Thus in Kirk- mabreck parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, is Spittal, where, according to Chalmers, once stood an hospital beside a rivulet called the Spittal Burn; and in Stoneykirk parish, Wigtownshire, are two hamlets, Mickle and Little Spittal. Chalmers says : " The stream that runs between them drives a mill called Spital Mill, and the sea creek into which this stream falls is called Port Spital." * Spittal is also found in Penninghame parish. According to Sir Herbert Maxwell these Wigtownshire Spittals were so called from their connection with the Hospitallers who owned land at the places named.^ Lanark, like Peebles, had anciently an hospital, dedicated to St Leonard, about half a mile to the east of the burgh. It was founded probably temp. William the Lion, and its ' Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 154. " R. M. S. ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 230. ■• Ibid., p. 190. " Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 423. " Gall. Top., s.v. "Spittal." HOSPITALS. 371 ruins were visible till towards the end of the eighteenth century. Cosmo Innes states that it " was endowed with a land of the value of ten pounds of old extent, called Spittal Shiels, a large tract of pasture now attached to the parish of Carluke, as well as with certain acres, near the burgh of Lanark, called St Leonard's Mains." The same authority adds : "To the chapel of the hospital there were attached a cemetery and an ecclesiastical district, comprising chiefly its own lands, which long bore the name of Saint Leonard's Parish." ^ When the collegiate church of St Mary was founded at Biggar in 1545-46 by Malcolm, Lord Fleming, Chamberlain of Scotland, it was endowed for a provost, eight canons, four choristers, and six bedes- men ; and there is reason to believe that these bedesmen had an hospital at a place marked Spittal by Blaeu, close to the Candy Burn, called also the Spittal Burn in consequence.^ Another Spittal is to be found in Carnwath parish. Cosmo Innes remarks concerning it : " Near the place where the burn of Carnwath meets the South Medwyn is a spot of ground called ' Spittal.' It was a land of forty shillings extent, the property of the Somervilles, and probably derived its name from an hospital endowed for eight bedesmen by Sir Thomas Somerville in the be- ginning of the fifteenth century."^ At Cambuslang there is said to have been an hospital, two miles to the east of the church, giving name to Spittal and Spittal Hill in its neighbourhood. Hamilton, too, had an hospital ; and in a charter of 1367 reference is made to a portion of land called Spitelholme connected with it.* Mr J. T. T. Brown remarks: "John Howison, in 1615 (when James, Marquess of Hamilton, mortified to the Hospital in Hamilton the lands of Chapel and Vicarland at Cambuslang), in the same deed, made a bequest of 2000 marks, the profit of which was to be applied towards the maintenance of two poor men of Cambuslang."^ About a mile to the south of Rutherglen is Spittal, and in the ' R. M. S.,' under date ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 120. ^ Ibid., p. 133- ' Ibid., p. 126. * Hamilton of Wishaw, p. 17, note. ° Cambuslang, The Place and its People, p. 71. 372 HOSPITALS. 1607, the lands of Spittelquarter are named as situated in the burgh. On the lands of Polmadie, about a mile and a half north-west of Rutherglen, once stood an hospital for poor men and women. It was founded before 1249, and had St John as its patron. No vestiges of the building now remain, but near its site is " a dilapidated well built of good masonry." Regarding it Mr A. M. Scott remarked in a paper read before the Glasgow Archaeological Society : "It is difficult to say how old this masonry may be. One would like to think that it was the actual well which supplied the old hospital with water." ^ Glasgow had a St Ninian's Hospital, to be referred to later, and a St Nicholas's Hos- pital near the Bishop's Castle, believed to have been founded by Bishop Andrew Mureheid (1455-73). "In 1476 it is called ' Hospitale pauperum ' ; in 1487, ' Hospitale Glas- guense'; and in 1507, 'Hospitale Sancti Nicholai.' " Near the Stable - green in the same city was another hospital, founded in 1524 by Rolland Blacader, sub -Dean of Glasgow.^ There were various hospitals in the Lennox, though little is known regarding their history. In 1450 the collegiate church of St Mary at Dumbarton was founded by Isabella, Countess of Lennox ; and connected with it was an hospital for several "beadsmen."^ Spittal-Burn, near Dumbarton, is named in a charter of date 1531 in the ' R. M. S.' ; and in another, of date 1642, we find a reference to the temple- lands called " Spittell of Tombowie in Lennox." The lands of Spittal near Auchentorlie in Old Kilpatrick parish had connected with them a fishing on the Clyde east of Dunglas, known as the " Spittale-schot." * There was a Spittal at Arngibbon, some three miles to the south-east of the Lake of Menteith. Referring to Balfron, Cosmo Innes says : "About a mile distant from the village there is a place called Spittal, which, with another known by the name of Ibert (in Gaelic ' sacrifice '), indicates the former existence in the parish of religious establishments whose character and history are now alike unknown. It may be remarked ' Transactions, New Series, vol. i. p. 521, '^ Marwick's Glasgow Charters, Part I., p. 57. ' Irving-'s Dumbartonshire, p. 316. ■• R. M. S. HOSPITALS. 373 that the parishes of Drymen, Balfron, and Killearn have each an Ibert,^ apparently connected in some measure with the church and the Spital."^ Spittal in Balfron parish, here alluded to, is probably the same as the hospital lands of Camoquhill, which belonged, according to Mr Guthrie Smith, first to the Templars and then to the Hospitallers.* Ballikinrain is an estate in Killearn parish, long in possession of the Napiers, cadets of the old Earls of Lennox. Mr Guthrie Smith says : "Thomas Napier of Ballikinrain succeeded his father in 1514, and soon became engaged to Margaret Flemyng, and in order to make due provision for her, he obtained a charter from George, Lord St John, Preceptor of Torphichen, of the temple - lands of Ballankinrane, vulgarly called the Hospital of Innerreith."* We find a Spittaletoun in Kil- maronock parish. The church of the parish was granted in 1324 by Robert L to the Abbey of Cambuskenneth. In 1528 the abbot cited, among other parishioners,, John Buchanan of Estir Catir and Spittaltoune, for failing to pay his teind sheaves.' The district of Lothian had several hospitals dating from early times. At Ballencrieff, in Aberlady parish, Hadding- tonshire, was an hospital dedicated to St Cuthbert. It was founded in the twelfth century, but the exact date is not known. There are now no remains of the building.^ Some land at Ballencrieff is referred to in the ' R. M. S.,' under date 1495, as " le Spittal-Crag." At Gosford, Spital, in the same parish, was another hospital, but there are now no remains to indicate its site. Trinity Hospital at Soutra has already been referred to. There were other hospitals in Haddingtonshire — e.g., St Mary's Hospital in the county ^ Muir, in his ' Ecclesiological Notes ' (p. 36), states that in the neigh- bourhood of the ancient burying-ground of Kilmaluag, in Skye, is a well locally styled Tobar-Heibert. Heibert is probably the same as Ibert. 2 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 40. ' Strathendrick, p. 22. Some writers are too apt, when the origin of a Spittal is doubtful, to take for granted that it was connected with the Knights Hospitallers. It seems clear, however, that the hospital lands of Camoquhill and Innerreith did belong to the knights in question. ^ Strathendrick, p. 195. = Reg. Mon. de Cambuskenneth, p. 220. ' N. S. A., Haddington, p. 253. 374 HOSPITALS. town, St Lawrencfe's Hospital, giving name to the hamlet of St Lawrence; and St Germain's Hospital at Seton, referred to in the previous chapter. This last is still remembered in the name of the mansion-house of St Germains. Linlithgow had an hospital dedicated to St Mary Mag- dalene, which took the place of a religious estabhshment belonging to the Knights of the Order of St Lazarus. The latter foundation seems to have fallen into decay, and was reorganised during the reign of James L as an hospital for the entertainment of pilgrims. It stood at the foot of Pilgrim-hill, to the east of the burgh, and gave name to Spittal-croft in its neighbourhood. The patron saint of the hospital was long remembered in a local fair called Mary Magdalene's. On the ground where the fair was held once stood St Magdalene's Cross. Four and a half miles south-south-west of Linlithgow is Torphichen, where was built in the twelfth century the preceptory of the Knights Hospitallers. Concerning it and its owners Mr John Edwards, in his ' Torphichen and the Knights of St John of Jerusalem in Scotland,' ^ observes : " In the village stands the parish church, surrounded by the old graveyard ; and immediately to the east, and abutting on the gable of the church, is the partially ruinous but roofed building, known locally as The Quier, being the transept of a church of which the nave and chancel are not now standing. This building is all that now remains of the headquarters in Scotland of one of the most renowned orders of the Middle Ages — the Knights Hospitallers or Knights of St John of Jerusalem. ... In its origin — owing its birth to pious merchants of Amalfi — it was not a military order; and its original patron saint was neither St John the Baptist nor St John the Evangelist, but St John the Almoner, a Cypriote, who had been Patriarch of Alexandria. Early in the twelfth century it became military, and adopted the Baptist as its patron. Thereafter it preserved, like its sister order the Templars, its semi-clerical, semi-laic char- acter till its decline." At the Reformation the hospital ' Trans. Glasgow Archa2ological Society, New Series, vol. iii., Part II., PP- 309-339- HOSPITALS. 375 lands of Torphichen were erected into a temporal lordship ; and Sir James Sandilands, the last preceptor, became their possessor, being at the same time raised to the peerage under the title of Lord Torphichen. Blaeu's map has no Spittal in the neighbourhood of Torphichen ; but we find Knightridge four miles to the south-east. Mid-Lothian had several hospitals. There was one at Newhall, in Penicuik parish, on the North Esk. The writer of the article on the parish in the ' N. S. A.'^ saj's : " Newhall House seems in former times to have been the seat of a religious establishment of some note. Lying on the confines of a very extensive and desolate waste, and on the line of the principal route from Edinburgh to the south-west, from which at this point there was a pass over the Pentlands to the north, it seems to have been originally intended to serve as a hospice for the shelter and refreshment of travellers, over what must have been at the time a dreary tract of country." In its neighbourhood are the hills known respectively as the Wester and the Easter Hill of Spital. Between them, occupying a hollow on the margin of the Spital Burn, is the Fore Spital, with some venerable trees about its walled-in garden. On one of the slopes of the Wester Hill are, or were, the foundations of a building called the Back Spital.^ Edinburgh had a number of hospitals, more or less famous. In addition to Trinity and St Mary Magdalene's, already referred to, there were St Mary's Hospital near the head of St Mary's Wynd, the Hospital of Our Lady in Leith Wynd, St Thomas's Hospital in the Canongate, and St Paul's Hospital; while in Leith was St Nicholas's Hospital, giving name to St Nicholas's Wynd. In his 'History of Edin- burgh,' ^ published in 1779, Arnot says : " On the south side of the High Street, at the head of Bell's Wynd, there were an hospital and chapel known by the name of Maison Dieu. We know not at what time or by whom its was founded ; but at the Reformation it shared the common fate of popish establishments in this country. It was converted into private property. This building is still entire: it goes by ^ Mid-Lothian, p. 36. ' Pennecuik's Description of Tweeddale, p. 124, note. ^ P. 246. 376 HOSPITALS. the name of the Clam-shell Turnpike, from the figure of an escalop shell cut in stone over the door." Another Edin- burgh hospital calls for mention — viz., St Leonard's, founded, according to Spottiswood, by Robert Ballantine, Abbot of Holyroodhouse. St Leonard's Lane divided the lands of St John's Hill and the Pleasance on the north from the Borough Moor on the south.^ Sir Daniel Wilson says : " On an eminence at the end of the lane stood the chapel and hospital of St Leonard, but not a fragment of either is novi^ left, though the font and holy water stoup remained in Maitland's time, and the enclosed ground was then set apart as a cemetery for self-murderers. The hospital was one of those erected for the reception of strangers and the mainten- ance of the poor and infirm." Among the possessions of Holyrood Abbey towards the end of the sixteenth century are mentioned "the aikeris callit Biedmannis Croft of Sanct Leonardis gait." In the ' Register of the Privy Council of Scotland,'^ under date 1581, a complaint is mentioned on the part of certain feuars within the regality of Holyrood- house against the abbot, and in it occurs the name of "James Bellenden of Bak and Foir Spittellis." Another hospital dedicated to St Leonard was situated on the lands of Dal- housie, and gave name to the village of Westmill or St Leonards on the North Esk.^ In Stirling was Spittal's Hospital, otherwise known as Nether Hospital to distinguish it from Cowan's or Over Hospital. It was founded by Robert Spittal for the relief of decayed merchants and tradesmen. Spittal was tailor to James IV. ; and among his other good deeds was the build- ing of a bridge over the Teith at Doune. Regarding the Nether Hospital, Mr J. S. Fleming says: "The only buildings now representing this hospital are a house in Spital Street (No. 82) and the Trades' Hall, with their inscriptions."* The same writer remarks: "The Hospital of James the Apostle, situated in the orchard of that name, now occupied by the Poor's House, and near to the Old Brig Mill, was also an almshouse." ' In 1602 " we find " Spittelfeild near ' Memorials of Old Edinburgh, p. 313. '^ Vol. iii. p. 406. » R. M. S., 1647. •> The Old Ludgings of Stirling, p. 94. » Ibid., p. 104. « R. M. S. HOSPITALS. 377 Stirling," and in 1641 " Spitteltoun, Spittellandis, Spittel- kers," and their meadows, and also Spittellmyre, all near the burgh. Fife and Kinross had their mediaeval hospitals. One such, dedicated to the Virgin, stood at Scotlandwell, close to the Bridge of Loch Leven in Portmoak parish. It belonged to the Trinity or Red Friars, and was founded for behoof of the poor by William Malvoisin, Bishop of St Andrews, who died towards the middle of the thirteenth century.^ At St Andrews was St Leonard's Hospital, founded probably in the previous century for the accommodation of pilgrims who flocked to the shrine of St Andrew the Apostle. It gave name to St Leonard's College and St Leonard's parish. An hospital, also dedicated to St Leonard, once stood at Dun- fermline, near the lower end of the town. It was founded for the support of eight widows, who, besides receiving certain grants, were entitled to a small garden and a room in the hospital.^ This charitable foundation is still remem- bered in Spittal Burn and Spittal Hill. There are other Spittals in Fife. Thus on Blaeu's map of the county we find Colheuch Spittel on the stream draining Loch Gelly; Spittel Mill lower down the same stream where it joins the Ore ; and Spittel in Strathore, near the junction of the Ore and the Lochtie, the last corresponding to the place alluded to in the ' R. M. S.' in 1627 as Inverlochtie, alias Spittell. In the neighbourhood of Inverkeithing were the lands of Spittalfield ; and there is the village of Spittalfield near the Tay in Caputh parish, Perthshire. Perth had several charitable institutions connected with the priory of St Leonard, and with the chapels of St Anne, St Catherine, and St Paul. The priory left its name in Leonard's Ley, Leonard's Hall or Haugh, St Leonard's Bank, and St Leonard's Street. St Anne's Lane and Paul's Close are to be found in the burgh topography. The hos- pital of St Mary Magdalene stood about a mile to the south of Perth, and is still remembered in the name of Magdalene Hill and St Magdalene's Farm. A post-Reformation hos- pital for behoof of the poor of the city was founded in 1569 1 Sibbald's Fife and Kinross, p. 282. - N. S. A., Fife, p. 904. 27^ HOSPITALS. by Regent Moray in name of the young king, James VI. It was afterwards located in the chapel of Our Lady.^ At Dunkeld was St George's Hospital, founded by Bishop Brown in 1510 for the support of seven old men.^ Fully a mile to the south-west of Arbroath is the estate of Hospitalfield. Jervise gives the following particulars regarding it : "In connection with the abbey [of Arbroath] there was also a hospital or infirmary, of much the same nature as those of the present day. There was attached to it a chapel, which appears towards the close of the fifteenth century to have fallen into a state of great dilapidation ; and for the repair of this the rents of the lands of Abernethy and the chapel lands of Dron were mostly appropriated. The hospital, dedicated to St John the Baptist, stood nearly two miles south-west of the abbey ; and in 1325, when the lands are first recorded as being let by the abbot, the tenants were bound to build, during the first year of a five years' lease, a barn and byre, each forty feet in length. Upon the site of this old byre and barn the fine hall of the mansion- house of Hospitalfield is erected ; and it is believed that the agreement regarding the erection of the byre and barn referred to furnished Sir Walter Scott with the locality of Monkbarns in his novel of ' The Antiquary.' " ^ At Montrose was an hospital dedicated to the Virgin ; and belonging to it, in the fifteenth century, were the lands of Spittalshiels in Kincardineshire, possibly the same as " Spittel-landis " in the kirklands of Abirluthnot (Marykirk) mentioned in the ' R. M. S.' in 1602. Six years later we find a reference to " Spittelmyir," * in the barony of Morphie- Fraser in Kincardineshire. Brechin had two hospitals : one was founded in 1572 by James VI. for the relief of the poor, the lame, and the miserable, orphans and destitute persons, the revenues being drawn from rents bequeathed in pre- Reformation times for masses and anniversaries. This ' R. S. Fittis's Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth, p. 270, &c. ^ N. S. A., Perth, p. 993. ' Memorials, vol. i. p. 231. ■i Near Banff are the " Spital " and the " Spital Myar." These, Dr Wra. Cramond says, are occasionally referred to in old writings, but the pre- cise date of the hospital cannot be ascertained. — 'The Annals of Banff,' vol. ii. p. II, HOSPITALS. 379 was known as the Hospital of Brechin. The other was the preceptory or Maison Dieu, with chapel attached, situated in the Maison Dieu Vennel, a little west of the Timber Market.^ It was founded in 1264 by Sir William of Brechin, son of Henry, and grandson of David, Earl of Huntingdon and Garioch, Lord of Brechin and Inverbervie, brother of William the Lion. Jervise says : " Part of the front and east walls of the Hospital, presenting several fine though decayed points of Early English architecture, with piscina and ambry, still stands in the vennel, and the original mason-marks are yet visible on many of the stones."^ The rector of the High School is, ex officio, entitled to the revenues of the charity, and in legal documents is styled Preceptor of Maison Dieu. There is a farm of Maison Dieu to the north-west of the burgh. Some hospitals in the north-east of Scotland fall to be mentioned. On the outskirts of Elgin was the preceptory of Maison Dieu, " an hospital for entertaining strangers, and maintaining poor infirm people." ^ It was founded in the first half of the thirteenth century, but was burned in 1390 by the Wolf of Badenoch at the same time as the cathedral. Some traces of the building were visible till towards the end of the eighteenth century ; but in 1835, as we learn from the 'N. S. A.,'* its site alone could be traced in the field where once it stood. The portion of land known as " Spytel croft " was connected either with the Maison Dieu or the Leper Hospital to be mentioned later. After the Reformation part of the revenues of the Maison Dieu continued to be used for behoof of the poor ; and in 1624 a Bead House was built, having inscribed on it " Hospitalium Burgi de Elgin." This house was replaced by another in 1846.^ After referring to the Maison Dieu of Elgin, Shaw re- marks: "Another such hospital, called St Nicholas Hos- pital, stood on the east bank of Spey ('juxta pontem de Spe'), at the boat of Bridge, where some remains of the buildings may be seen."^ During the reign of Alexander III., Alexander Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, founded two hos- 1 Black's History of Brechin, p. 255. ^ Memorials, vol. i. p. 183. ' Shaw's Province of Moray, p. 265. '' Elgin, p. 7. * Gaz., s.v. "Elgin." * Province of Moray, p. 263. 38o HOSPITALS. pitals— one at Newburgh on the Ythan, and the other at Turriff. The latter was dedicated to St Congan, and main- tained " a master, six chaplains, and thirteen poor husband- men of Buchan." In 1273 the founder bestowed on it the church of Turriff, which was also under the patronage of St Congan, who is locally remembered in the annual market known as Cowan Fair.^ The writer of the parish article in the 'N. S. A.'^ suggests that some houses called Maison Dieu indicate the site of the hospital. An ancient hospice is believed to have stood in Monkeigie parish, where we still find Spital as a place-name.^ St Thomas's Hospital at Aberdeen, known later as "The Beadhouse," was situated near St Nicholas's Church. It was founded in 1459 by John Clatt, a canon of Aberdeen, for the reception of in- digent persons. At Old Aberdeen an hospital was founded by Bishop Gavin Dunbar in 1532 " for the benefit of twelve old men who, by misfortunes or otherwise, might happen to be reduced to indigence, particularly inhabitants of the bishop's lands, who enjoyed a preference to all others." * Between Old and New Aberdeen was another hospital, to be referred to presently. Cosmo Innes remarks : " There were hospitals in Ross in the fifteenth century. In 1457 the chancellor of Ross and William Urquhard in Crumbathy were appointed by King James II. to assist his chancellor in visiting and reforming them." ^ In connection with Rosskeen parish the same writer says: "In 1597 Gilbert Gray was served heir to his father, John Gray of Fordell, in the lands and town of Hospitill, in the earldom of Ross, of the old extent of ten shillings. The lands of Hospitill appear to be the same as those of Obstuill or Obsdale, on which a chaplainry was founded in the cathedral church of Ross."* Spittal in Killearnan parish recalls an hospital said to have belonged to the Knights Hospitallers.' In Caithness is Spittal Hill, between the parishes of ' Antiquities of Aberdeen and Banff, vol. ii. p. 337, note. "^ Aberdeen, p. 988. » Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 301. * Kennedy's Annals of Aberdeen, vol. ii. pp. 78, 315. "> O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 525, note. « Ibid., p. 469. ' O. S. A., vol. xvii. p. 3SS. HOSPITALS. 381 Halkirk and Watten. The origin of the name is thus ex- plained by Cosmo Innes : " The church of St Magnus, either founded by that saint or dedicated to him, and originally attached to an hospital of which the nature is unknown, stood a few miles south from Halkirk, near the foot of the hill named from it Spittalhill. Its foundations, sixty feet by twenty, part of its walls, and its cemetery, the burial-place of the clan Gunn, still remain. Around it, and at some distance, were numerous buildings apparently con- nected with the hospital, and among these one larger than the rest, at a place named Auchinarras (the Field of the Altar)." ^ St Magnus's Fair is held annually in the village of Halkirk, on the Tuesday before the 26th of December. In the early part of the thirteenth century the parish of Halkirk was divided into the parishes of Skenand, Halkirk, and the Hospital of Saint Magnus or Spittal, but these were subsequently reunited.^ A special class of hospitals calls for mention in conclusion — viz., those devoted to the support of lepers. As is well known, the disease of leprosy was very common in the Middle Ages, and Scotland shared with the rest of Europe in its ravages. Even during the eighteenth century it existed in Shetland, where those attacked by it were kept apart on the island of Papa-Stour. In mediaeval times leprosy was a subject of legislation. During the reign of James I., in the year 1427, in a parliament held at Perth, a law was passed enacting, inter alia, that "na Lipper Folke sit to thig [beg] neither in kirk nor kirkyaird, nor other place within the burrowes, but at their own hospital, and at the port of the towne and other places outwith the burrowes." Lepers were under the special charge of the Knights of St Lazarus, who, during the reign of King Stephen, had their headquarters in England at Burton Lazars in Leicestershire. Their only house in Scotland, as far as is known, was the one at Linlithgow already re- ferred to. Creighton, in his 'History of Epidemics,'^ re- marks: "Most of the leper - spitals of Scotland would appear to have been of the poorest kind, unendowed, and 1 O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 758. "^ Ibid., p. 756. ' Vol. i. p. 99. 382 HOSPITALS. unprovided with priests." They were "mere refuges in which the lepers supported themselves by begging." Over some of them, as Sir J. Y. Simpson informs us, " chaplains and religious officers with the high church title of priors were placed." ^ When begging, the lepers had a cup or dish to receive the alms of the passers-by. At Greenside Leper-Hospital, Edinburgh, founded by the magistrates in 1589, the inmates were forbidden to go abroad on pain of death ; and Arnot mentions that " a gallows was erected at the gavel of the hospital for the immediate execution of offenders."^ Liberton in Mid-Lothian and Libberton in Lanarkshire mean Leper Town. There are no traces of the hospital at the former, nor is there any tradition regarding it ; but we know that in certain old docu- ments the lands of Upper Liberton are styled the lands of "Spittleton."^ At Elgin was " Spetelflat," a piece of land situated next to the houses of the lepers ("juxta domos leprosorum de Elgin ").* About the year 1226 an hospital for seven lepers was endowed at Rathven in Banffshire, in connection with St Peter's Church there, by Sir John Bisset of Lovat, founder of Beauly Priory.^ "In the chapter of gifts to this hospital," remarks Sir J. Y. Simpson, "Alexander is spoken of as the reigning prince, the preamble to the grant declaring that the endowment was bestowed ' for the love of charity, for the soul of King William, and for the sal- vation of my noble lord King Alexander.'"^ An hospital dedicated to St Peter, for behoof of the poor and the sick, was founded, between Aberdeen and the old town, in the time of William the Lion, by Matthew Kyninmunde, Bishop of Aberdeen. Adjoining it was a chapel to St Anne, built in 1519. In 1574 it was decreed that the provost and magis- trates of Aberdeen should " uptak fra James Leslie, present possesseour of the croft and myre pertening to the lipper- folk betuix New and Auld Aberdene, the yeirlie dewitie thairof," and apply the amount, along with other sums, "to cans the said hous be theikkit and reparit for the 1 ArchsEol. Essays, vol. ii. p. 23. " History of Edinburgh, p. 258. " Archseol. Scot., vol. i. p. 293. '' Reg-. Episc. Moray, p. 129. ' Keith's Bishops, p. 478. " Archaeol. Essays, vol. ii. p. 43. HOSPITALS. 383 ressett of the said lipperfolk in tyme cuming."i At the same date we read, in the ' R. M. S.,' of " Spittelhill " at Aberdeen near the Leper House, and eleven years later of the lands of the Kirktoun of St Peter's Hospital near Aber- deen. The ground belonging to the hospital was known as the "Spital," a name still familiar to the dwellers in the Granite City. At Uthrogal, in Monimail parish, Fife, is a site believed to have been a pre- Reformation burying-ground, where a stone coffin, containing two skeletons, was dug up sixty or seventy years ago. From the 'N. S. A.'^ we learn that " Uthrogal was formerly a leper hospital, and, with the lands of Hospital Mill in the adjoining parish of Cults, was given by Mary of Gueldres to the Trinity Hospital at Edinburgh." St Ninian's Leper Hospital at Glasgow stood a little way to the south of the old bridge leading across the Clyde to Gorbals. The date of its erection is uncertain, but it may have been in use, as Mr Robert Renwick suggests, as early as the close of the thirteenth century. The building was known in 1494 as " Hospitale leprosorum degentium prope pontem " ; in 1505 as " Hospitale Leprosorum S. Niniani trans pontem"; and in 1587 as "the puir lipper folkis house beyond the brig."* Hospital Street, at right angles to the river, is still a memorial of the building. In 1798 the Town Council sold a piece of ground in Gorbals opposite Adelphi Street, known as Lepers' Yard. Not long before 1840 human bones were discovered where the cemetery of the hospital is believed to have been. The writer of the article in the 'N. S. A.'* mentions this, and adds: "Near the centre of the main street of Gorbals an antiquated edifice, which has been called from time immemorial 'the chapel,' is still standing." This chapel was founded shortly before 1494 by William Steward, a canon of Glasgow Cathedral. Its later history is thus recounted by Mr Renwick : " Subsequent to the Reformation the building ' Rec. Privy Council, vol. ii. p. 391. ^ Fife, p. 41. ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 19. Vide also 'The Regality Club,' Fourth Series, Part I. ; ' The Barony of Gorbals,' by Robert Renwick. * Lanark, p. 689. 384 HOSPITALS. was long utilised as a court-house and prison for the barony of Gorbals. Denholm, in his ' History of Glasgow,' pub- lished in 1798, mentions that the lower part of the chapel was then occupied as the parish school, and the two upper stories as a prison. New buildings for the judicial and criminal requirements of the barony were acquired about the year 1827, and thereupon the chapel was sold to a purchaser, who converted it into dwelling-houses and shops. The old buildings were at last removed under the authority of the Improvements Act of 1866."^ The ground occupied by the hospital, &c., was known as St Ninian's Croft. An ordinance of the Town Council of Glasgow of 6th October 1610 enacts that " the lipper of the hospital sail gang onlie upon the calsie syde near the gutter, and sail haif clapperis, and ane claith upon thair mouth and face, and sail stand afar of, quhill they resaif almous or answer, under the payne of banischeing thame the toun and hospital." ^ Close to the highway between Ayr and Prestwick, on the outskirts of the latter burgh, stood a leper hospital dedi- cated, like the one at Glasgow, to St Ninian. This was Robert the Bruce's Kilcaiss, Kingiscase, or King's-Ease, founded by the king as a thank-offering for benefit received to his own health from the water of a neighbouring spring. Spottiswood says " it was founded for eight leprous persons who are each to have eight bolls of meal and eight merks Scots yearly : and if there is but one, he has the whole." ^ A chaplain was provided for the lepers. In the time of Charles I. those who shared in the charity lived in huts in the vicinity of the chapel. " On the north-west side of the ruins of the hospital chapel," remarks Sir J. Y. Simpson, " the burial-place of the leper bedesmen is still pointed out, but the numerous and marked ' undulations of the green- sward ' are their only tombstone." * Among the lands forming the endowments of the charity were those of " Spital- schellis in Kyle Stewart ; " and there is reason to believe ' " Pre-Reformation Hospitals of Glasgow," by R. R. in ' Glasg-ow Herald ' of 9th August 1902. 2 O. P. S., vol. i. p. 19. s Keith's Bishops, p. 476. * Archaeol. Essays, vol. ii. p. 22, note. HOSPITALS. 385 that Spittal in Symington parish and " Spittale-bog " near Ayr mentioned in the ' R. M. S.' in 1546 were also con- nected with Killcaiss. The right of presentation to the hospital was vested in the family of Wallace of Craigie. This right passed by purchase in 1787 to the burgh of Ayr, and its poorhouse became the lineal descendant of King Robert's Hospital. 2 B CHAPTER XXIX. DWELLINGS. Forts and early missionaries — Rathmuriel — Carbuddo — Caeriuinning — Both — Bute — Tigh-n-Naomh and St Cedd — Kirkton, iffc. — Kirkseater — Selkirk — Monkton, ilfc. — Prestiuick — Chryston — St Johnston — Brydeston — Lauriston — Baileachaibil — Balnakiel, isfc. — Balmhaodan — Baile-Dhuich and Balmaduthie — Balcormac — Balbirnie — -Balmungo — Balglassie — Balmalcolm — Balmartin — Balluig and Balmoloch—Bal- kissock and Balmokessaik — Kissoktoun — Balmaha — Balmertno — Bal- bunnoch — Bothelnie — Baile-a-Mhullin-Eonan. In reply to the question, " Where would missionary saints think of going with the view of converting heathen tribes ? " Mr Duncan Campbell remarks, " To the places where kings and chiefs assembled." ^ This is probably correct. The early saints were wise enough to see that if they could persuade the chiefs to accept their message they would thereby make more way with the tribesmen. But this was not their only reason. When a chief became a Christian he could be counted on to supply protection to the mission- aries and their monastic settlements. What Dr Todd says of St Patrick is true of other Celtic missionaries : " His ecclesiastical establishments were surrounded by fortifica- tions for the protection of the inmates ; and many of the most celebrated of them, as Armagh, Cashel, Downpatrick, Clogher, and others, were built in situations possessing natural advantages for defence, or near the already forti- fied habitations of the antient chieftains."^ St Fechin's monastic settlement, founded in the seventh century on the ' The Book of Garth and Fortingall, p. 59. " Life of St Patrick, p. 502. DWELLINGS. 387 island of Ardoilean, off the Connemara coast, was surrounded by a stone rampart, remains of which are still to be seen ; and we read that in the twelfth century a certain saint from Ireland came to Scotland and built there an oratory sur- rounded by a vallum after the manner of the Irish rath.'^ Rathmuriel, otherwise Christ's Kirk, in the Garioch district of Aberdeenshire, formerly a separate parish but now included in Kennethmont, represents the name of a saint in association with an ancient fort. The saint in this case was Muriel, who is mentioned among the virgins and widows in the Dunkeld Litany. When Jervise wrote his ' Epitaphs and Inscriptions in the North-East of Scotland,' remains of her rath were still visible. He remarks : " The name of Rath -Muriel is both suggestive and interesting. It not only carries us back to the Pictish period, but shows that there was a fort or place of strength there which may have been the abode of the holy woman whose name it bore." Jervise adds : " It is a noteworthy fact that although the connection of the thanes of Cawdor with the district cannot now be traced, the name of Muriel has been from remotest record, and still is, a common Christian name for female members of that family." ^ There is a place called Muriel near the ruined kirk of Rathmuriel. In 1245 Sir William of Brechin granted the lands of Rathmuriel to the Abbey of Lindores. " On the 13th day of September 1258 Pope Alexander IV. ratified the agreement made between the Bishop of Aberdeen and the Abbot and Convent of Lundoris, by which the vicar of Rathmuriel was 'to have twelve merks, the whole altarage of the church, a manse, with two bovates of land and the great tithes of the then cultivated land of the Nethertown of Rauthmuriell.' " ^ Rath, denoting a fort, occurs very frequently in Ireland, where, according to Dr Joyce, it is to be found in the names of about 700 town-lands.* On the other hand it is rare with us. As the result of his investigations, Dr David ^ Kal., s.v. "Michael." ^ Vol. ii. pp. 8, 9. With Rathmuriel may be compared Ebbchester in the county of Durham — i.e., St Ebba's Camp. ' Antiquities of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff, vol. iv. p. 501, note. * Irish Names of Places, p. 265. 388 DWELLINGS. Christison remarks: "It is clear that the evidence of the use of rath in the sense of fort in the existing place-names of Scotland is exceedingly meagre." * With the meaning of fort the term is now obsolete in GaeHc ; but it survives in other senses. Carbuddo in Forfarshire, styled also Kirkbuddo, signifies the Fort of St Buite or Boethius, founder of the monastery of Monasterboice in Ireland. He was born in Londonderry, and, after spending some years in his native land, went to Italy, where he entered a monastery. Later he travelled northward, and is said to have met on his way a Christian company from Germany, comprising sixty men and ten virgins, who travelled with him to Scotland. There he is reported to have raised to life King Nechtan, who had recently expired, — a species of miracle often attributed to the early saints.^ After remaining a short time in the district he returned to Ireland, and died in 521, the year of Columba's birth.* Regarding St Buite Dr Skene re- marks : " If he entered the Pictish territories by the Firth of Tay, it is probable that the place formerly called Dun- Nechtan, or the Fort of Nechtan, and now corrupted into Dunnichen, in Forfarshire, is the place intended, and that the name of Boethius or Buitte is preserved in the neigh- bouring church of Kirkbuddo, situated within the ramparts of what was a Roman camp."* The fair at Aberdour in Aberdeenshire, known as Byth market, is said to have derived its name from St Buitte.^ Caerwinning, in Dairy parish, Ayrshire, a hill 634 feet in height, is the Fort of Wynnin, who is also remembered in Kilwinning in the same county. Regarding Caerwinning fort the writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.'* remarks : " It appears to have been formed of three con- centric circles or walls of stone, inclosing a space of two acres. The greater part of the materials of which it was composed have been removed to build fences, &c. The ' Early Fortifications in Scotland, p. 317. ° Chronicles of Picts and Scots, pp. 410, 411. ' Moran's Irish Saints in Great Britain, pp. 167-169. * Celtic Scotland, vol. i. p. 135. » N. S. A., Aberdeen, p. 273. ' Ibid., Ayr, p. 219. DWELLINGS. 389 outer wall cannot now be easily traced ; but from what remains it appears to have been from ten to twelve feet in thickness. The entrance has been on the western side. The vestiges of a fosse or ditch are still visible at the foot of the hill. It must have been a place of great strength, and commands a view of the surrounding country for many miles. It is believed that the Scottish army were encamped in this fortification previous to the battle of Largs." We have less warlike associations connected with both, a Gaelic word cognate with English booth and Scottish bothy, signifying a hut or temporary dwelling. The huts of our early missionaries were humble structures of reeds and wattles. Close to Walla Kirk beside the Deveron is a mound where, according to a local tradition, St Wallach's Hermitage stood. Fordoun states that Bute derived its name from the both or hut of St Brendan built by him on the island. He says: "When the faith of our Saviour had been diffused through all the ends of the earth, and the islands which are afar off. Saint Brandan constructed thereon a booth — in our idiom bothe, that is, a shrine. Whence henceforth and until our times it has been held to have two names, for it is by the natives sometimes called Rothisay — i.e., the Isle of Rothay, as also sometimes the Isle of Bothe (Bute)."i Commenting on this Skene re- marks: "Though the old chronicler's etymology of the name of Bute is bad, the name of Brendan is preserved in the designation given to the people of Bute of 'the Brandanes.' " ^ Forfarshire has two examples of Both or Boath — viz.. Fore Boath in Panbride parish, and Back Boath in Car- mylie parish, at each of which there was a chapel, the chapel at the former having been dedicated to St Law- rence.^ In a charter of date 1360, David II. confirmed to the Bishop of Brechin a gift formerly made by Christina de Valoniis, Lady of Panmure, to the chapel of Both from the lands of Bothmernock. These lands seem to have de- rived their name from some hut associated with St Marnoch.* ^ Chronicle of the Scottish Nation (ed. 1872), vol. il. p. 24. 2 Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 77. " Jervise's Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 318. '' Reg. de Panmure, vol. ii. p. 173. 390 DWELLINGS, We find Gaelic tigh, a house, in Tigh-nhao or Tigh-n- naomh (Duneaves), near Fortingall in Pertiishire — i.e., the Saint's House, where Mr Charles Stewart places the residence of St Ceode— otherwise Cedd — brother of St Chad. St Cedd occupied the district of Fortingall for some time and was reckoned its patron saint. Near Dun- eaves is Dal-mo-cheode — i.e., the Field of St Cedd; a local market is known as Feille-mo-cheode — i.e., St Cedd's Fair. The saint afterwards became a bishop among the East Saxons, and died in 664. Part of his relics are said to have been brought back to Fortingall and to have been buried under a stone, still known as Leac-mo-Cheode — i.e., the Flag-stone of St Cedd.^ A cluster of dwellings near a church often owed its name to its association with the neighbouring building. Accord- ingly we find Kirkton, Kirktoun, Kirktown, and Kirton,^ just as in England we find Kirkby and Kirby with the same meaning. These Kirktons are numerous, but as a rule they are comparatively small in size, some of them being mere hamlets. The only one that has attained to parochial dignity is Kirkton, a Teviotdale parish of Rox- burghshire, containing Kirkton Farm, Kirkton Loch, and Kirkton Hill. The church stands three and a half miles east of Hawick. Such names as Chapelton, Chapelhouse, Corston, and Corsehouse also indicate a connection between certain buildings and a chapel and a cross respectively.^ To Scandinavian influence are due names like Kirkaby, Crosby, and Canonby (Danish by, a homestead or village) — i.e., the Town of the Church, of the Cross, and of the Canon respectively ; and Kirkabister (Norse boktadr, a homestead),* and Kirkseater (Norse saeter, a shieling),* signifying respectively the Homestead by the Church and the Shealing by the Church. Life at these shielings, where ' Gaelic King-dom in Scotland, pp. 60-64. '^ Kirkton and Kirton are also found south of the Tweed, For the origin and geographical distribution of ton, T'ide Appendix, 1. ' For examples, vide chaps, xii. and xiv. * Crossapol and Crossbost are the homestead by the cross. Vide chap. xiv. ' There seems to be no authoritative spelling of this word, Jamieson gives six different forms. Vide his Dictionary, s.v. " Sheal." DWELLINGS. 39I a month or six weeks were spent every summer, is thus described by Henderson in his ' Agricultural View of Caithness ' : " About the 20th of June the house-wife and maid set out with the milch cows, perhaps from ten to twenty in number, to the shielings, where a booth or cabin was previously prepared for their reception ; another for the milk vessels, and a small fold to keep the calves from the cows during the night. There they passed a complete pastoral life making butter and cheese, and living on curds and cream, or a mixture of oatmeal and cream." ^ Selkirk is the kirk beside the shielings, — Scheleschirche being an early form. When referring to the name, Mr T. Craig-Brown remarks : " More than probably the chirche was planted beside the scheles on the revival of Christianity in the time of Queen Margaret, after its eclipse in Scotland for nearly 500 years, which would make the name now about eight centuries old. The scheles, which must have been there before the church, were the huts or clachans of shepherds in charge of flocks out at pasture." ^ There were at one time two Selkirks — Selkirk Abbatis and Selkirk Regis — but these eventually coalesced into one Selkirk.^ The names of Monkton, Friarton, and Nuntown point to mon- astic life, while in Preston we get a glimpse of a priest's dwelling and also in Prestwick, the suffix being Old English wic, a village. Sir Herbert Maxwell says: "Prestwick, near Ayr, might be either a bay or a dwelling ; but we know it to be the latter, and that it signified preost wic, the priest's dwelling ; for in Norse it would have been Papa - vie, to signify ' priest's bay.' " * Chryston, in Cadder parish, Lanarkshire, is thought by Mr Johnston^ to signify " Christ's village." A chapel was built at the village in 1779, and later the district around was formed into the present quoad sacra parish of Chryston. The ancient Elginshire parish of Dipple, united to Essil in 1731 to form the present parish of Speymouth, had its church dedicated to the Holy Ghost. At its churchyard stile once stood a small building known as the House of the Holy ^ Quoted in Calder's History of Caithness, p. 240. '' History of Selkirkshire, vol. ii. p. 3. ' Ibid., p. 6. * Scottish Land-Names, p. 90. » Scottish Place-Names, s.v. "Chryston." 392 DWELLINGS. Ghost, round which it was customary at funerals to carry the corpse sunways. This practice continued till the building was demolished, shortly before the year 1775.^ Perth was known by the alternative name of St Johnstoun, its church having been dedicated to St John the Baptist.^ After referring to the origin of the Fair City, Camden re- marks : " Later ages, from the church built there and dedi- cated to St John, gave it the name of St John's town."^ We find the name in " St Johnston's hunt is up" — the title of the slogan of the burghers of Perth ; and in the phrase " St Johnstoun's ribbons," which came to mean a halter, but was originally applied to the ropes worn round the necks of 300 citizens of Perth who, at the time of the Reformation, marched out under the Earl of Argyll and Lord James Stuart to prevent the forces of the Queen-Regent from cap- turing Stirling. The zeal of these citizens was such that they resolved that whoever ran away should be hanged by the rope which he wore.* The village of Dairy, in Kirkcudbrightshire, is otherwise known as the Clachan or St John's town of Dairy, its church having been also dedicated to St John the Baptist. James IV., in connection with his pilgrimages to St Ninian's shrine at Whithorn, passed through the village and made an offer- ing in the church, as we learn from the following entry of date 1497 in ' The Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer ' : * " Item at Sanct Johnis kirk at Dalrye, to the preist xiiijd." This is Heron's description of the place towards the end of the eighteenth century: "The river [Ken] appears advancing through a fine plain, or holm, cultivated on both sides. Above, on the east side, rises the village of St John's Clachan, the houses of which being irregularly scattered over a considerable space of ground, produce a finer effect to the eye than if they were arranged upon a more formal plan. The little crofts lying around them are all carefully culti- vated. The gardens are green with pot-herbs, perhaps neatly surrounded with hedges and sheltered by rows of ' Shaw's Province of Moray, p. 335. ^ For an account of Burgh Seal vide Appendix, J. ' Britannia, vol. iv. p. 134. * Fittis's Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth, pp. 98, 99. ' Vol. i. p. 356. DWELLINGS. 393 trees. The houses have commonly thatched roofs. Yet a slate roof here and there diversifies their appearance. Be- neath the village and close upon the edge of the river stands the church of Dairy, and near it the manse, both decent buildings, and so situate as to produce a fine effect in the landscape."^ Brydeston, in Airlie parish, Forfarshire, looks like the town of St Bridget of Kildare. Lauriston, an estate with the remains of an ancient castle in St Cyrus parish, Kin- cardineshire, is the town of St Lawrence the Martyr, whose chapel stood at Chapelfield. About the year 1243 Sir John of Strivelyn — the then owner of the estate — granted the chapel, together with a pound of wax yearly, to the prior and canons of St Andrews. Its old font was discovered last cen- tury buried among some rubbish, and was removed for safe keeping to the castle.^ Lauriston, in Falkirk parish, was called not after St Lawrence but after Sir Lawrence Dundas, ancestor of the Earl of Zetland.^ St Lawrence House, a hamlet about a mile west of Haddington, was so called from a chapel to St Lawrence, the patronage of which in pre- Reformation times belonged to the nuns of Haddington.* The Gaelic baile,^ a town or township, furnishes various examples of place-names with ecclesiastical associations, and usually appears in topography as bal. The form baile is found in Baileachaibil — i.e., Chapeltown, a name given to a cluster of houses on the west side of Loch Fad in Bute, the ruins of which are still visible. Dr J. King Hewison remarks : "Its name associates it with some chapel which must have existed prior to the parish church in the im- mediate vicinity, if we are to account for its necessity, or which was a memorial chapel that fell into desuetude. A circular well-built wall encloses an empty space on the south side overshadowed by ash-trees where the chapel ^ Journey through Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 165, 166. 2 Jervise's Memorials, vol. ii. pp. 162, 163. = N. S. A., Stirling, p. 24. * Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 515. = Canon Isaac Taylor remarks: ''Bally, the anglicised form oibaiU, is the commonest element in the names of Irish townlands, in 6400 of which it is found. It now means a townland, village, or town ; but its original meaning was simply a place, usually a place fenced round. Cf. the Latin vallum. Low Latin ballivum."— ''Names and their Histories,' p. 59. 394 DWELLINGS. may have stood." ^ Balquhapple, near Drymen, also means the Town of the Chapel. The chapel there was connected with the priory of Inchmahome. Balnakiel is the Town of the Church, Balnahanait or Balnahanaid the Town of the Annat or Mother-church, and Balnacross the Town of the Cross. Balnespick, Balnab, Balvicar, and Ballinsagart tell of a bishop, an abbot, a vicar, and a priest respectively. Bal is also found associated with the names of Celtic saints. The parish of Ardchattan in Lorn, united quoad civilia to Muckairn in 1637, was anciently known as Balmhaodan — i.e., the Town of St Modan, a missionary who flourished during the first half of the eighth century. Cosmo Innes remarks : " The old church of St Modan stands on a hill near the north shore of Loch Etive. It measures 57 feet by 22 >^, and has only three windows, flat topped, and placed one in each end, and the third on the south side. Its cemetery is still in use, and near it is a spring, named Saint Modan's Well." ^ Tain, in Rosshire, is known in Gaelic as Baile-Dhuich — i.e., the Town of St Duthac, bishop and confessor, who died in 1068, and regarding whom various miraculous stories are told.^ The writer of the article on Tain in the ' N. S. A.' * says : " In addition to the Gaelic appellations of the burgh and parish,^ several other names with us are com- pounded from that of the saint. We have St Duthus' Fairs, St Duthus' Scalp (namely, the mussel - scalp), St Duthus' Cairn, St Duthus' Chapel, and St Duthus' Church ; * besides that, the burgh arms bear upon them the figure, and are inscribed with the title, of Sanctus Duthacus." St Duthac's Chapel, a granite structure now in ruins, was the reputed birthplace of the saint. Like St Ninian's shrine at Whit- horn in the south, it attracted many a mediaeval pilgrim. Cosmo Innes remarks : " In 1496, 1497, 1501, 1503, 1504, 1507, and 1513 King James IV. made pilgrimages to the shrine of Saint Duthace at Tain (the last having been per- formed within a month of his death at Flodden), and on 1 Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 235. - O. P. S., vol. ii. p. 148. ' Kal., s.v. "Duthac." •" Ross, p. 287. ' The parish is called Sgire-Duich— ».<•., Duthac's Parish. " Vide Neale's Eccles. Notes, pp. 62, 65. DWELLINGS. 395 these occasions he made offerings (usually of the sum of fourteen shillings) in ' Sanct Duthois chapell quhair he was borne,' in ' Sanct Duthois chappel in the kirkzaird of Tayn,' in ' Sanct Duthois kirk,' and at ' the stok of Sanct Duthois town,' and generally gave a gratuity to the man that bore 'Sanct Duthois bell.' He possessed a 'relict of Sanct Dutho set in silver (of what kind does not appear) which was doubtless preserved as having miraculous power of healing, and which continued in the hands of his son. King James V., down at least to the year 1534.' " ^ Balmaduthie, an estate in Knockbain parish in the same county, also means the Town of St Duthac, the -ma being the honorific prefix so often found connected with the names of Celtic saints. Baldutho, in the barony of Kellie in Fife, also points to St Duthac. Balcormo, in the same county, is the town of St Cormack, a seafaring saint, familiar to us through his connection with St Columba.^ Dunbarny parish, Perthshire, has a Balcormac, where there were quarries belonging to the Abbey of Scone, whence King Robert the Bruce requested that stones might be taken for "the edification of the church of Perth and of the bridges of Perth and Earn."* Another early navigator, St Brendan, is commemorated in Balbirnie. There is a Balbirnie in Ruthven parish, Forfar- shire; there is another in Markinch parish, Fife; while a third (Balbirny) is mentioned in a charter of 1579 as situated in the Barony of Tarvat (Tarvit) in the same county.* In Fife, too, we find Balmungo, not far from St Andrews, suggesting, one is tempted to think, the name of St Mungo or Kentigern, who, though best known for his work in Strathclyde, had a strong hnk with the east country, having been born and trained at Culross.^ Near Aberlemno in Forfarshire are the lands of Balglassie granted to Sir William Disschington by David II. in 1366.^ ' O. p. S., vol. ii. p. 433. '' Adamnan, chaps, vi., xlii. » Fittis's Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth, p. 25. * R. M. S., 1546-80. " Mr W. J. N. Liddall, in his ' Place-Names of Fife and Kinross,' gives quite another interpretation of Balmung-o. He equates it with Baile + Muingeach — i.e.. Town of Sedges. ' Jervise's Memorials, vol. i. p. 249. 396 DWELLINGS. Did these lands derive their name from St Glascianus — the titular of Kilmaglas, otherwise Strachur parish, in Argyll — who is thought to have left a trace of himself in the name of Kinglassie parish, Fife, where there is a spring known as St Glass's Well ? A definite answer is not easy. Balmal- colm (in Kingskettle parish, Fife, and in CoUace parish, Perthshire) is also difficult to interpret. If the name could be found as Balmacolm, the -ma would probably be the honorific prefix to Columba. As it appears in its present form, Balmalcolm may be either "the town of the servant of Saint Columba " or " the town of Malcolm," with only a remote connection through etymology with St Columba. Balmartin in the island of North Uist, where there was formerly a chapel, recalls St Martin of Tours ; while Balluig, mentioned in a charter of 1541 as on the lands of Arstinchar (Ardstinchar) in Carrick, and Balmoloch near Kilsyth (given in Blaeu's map), tell of Luag, otherwise St Moluag of Lis- more, who died in 592. We have a trace of St Kessog of Luss in Balkissock, an estate in Girvan parish, Ayrshire, and in Balmokessaik on the lands of Arstinchar named in the charter of 1541 just mentioned. Nor must we omit Kissoktoun in Senwick parish, now united to Borgue, given in Timothy Font's map of Galloway, and thus referred to in a charter dated 22nd July 1531 : "Five marcatas terrarum de Litill Dunrod alias Kessoktoun antiqui extentus in par- ochia de Sannyk." ^ Balmaha in Buchanan parish, opposite the island of Inchcailleach and near the foot of Loch Lomond, recalls St Mahew, a companion of St Patrick, who is believed to have lived at Kingarth in Bute. "On the hillside above the Milton of Buchanan there is a well which still goes by the name of St Maha's Well, to which people resorted within the memory of some still living to seek for cure."^ Balmerino in Fife is well known for its ruined Cistercian Abbey on a rising-ground near the Tay, founded in 1227 by Ermengarda, widow of William the Lion.* The fact is, perhaps, not so well known that its name probably em- 1 R. M. s., 1513-46. '' J. Guthrie Smith's Strathendrick, p. 98, note. " Rev. Dr Campbell's Balmerino and its Abbey, pp. 53-69. DWELLINGS. 397 bodies that of St Merinach, one of the companions of St Regulus.^ Benedictus was one of the followers of St Boni- face in the seventh century. Bishop Forbes is inclined to think that Bonoc or Bonach is the same name in an altered form, though he allows that if so the form is unusual.^ St Bonoc had some link with Leuchars in Fife. There is Bal- bunnoch, close to Invergowrie in Longforgan parish, Perth- shire, which may be the town of St Bonach. St Boniface founded a church at Invergowrie, and it would be natural to find a trace of one of his companions in the neighbour- hood ; but the question is one of difficulty. Old Meldrum parish, Aberdeenshire, was known till 1684 as Bothelnie, Bethelnie, or Balthelney. These latter names are believed to be a corruption of Bal-Nethalen or Both- nethalen — i.e., the Dwelling of St Nathalan or St Nachlan, the patron saint of the district, who is said to have flourished in the seventh century. The parish church stood at Bothelnie till the year just mentioned, when it was re- moved to the village of Old Meldrum. Only its foundations now remain with the surrounding burying- ground, where, according to tradition, the saint was interred. The presence of his relics is said to have protected the parish from an invasion of pestilence. According to another tra- dition this immunity was due to the fervent prayers of the saint, who went round the bounds of the parish on his knees. There is no doubt that the memory of St Nathalan was held in reverence in the district till quite modern times. The writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.' ^ says : " A day called St Nathalin's Day was for a long period observed in honour of the supposed benefactor. Several persons yet alive \i.e., in 1840] recollect that in their early years St Nathalin's Day was still so far attended to that no work was performed on it throughout the parish. Until a very late period a market-day was held in Old Meldrum annually in the month of January, which was called Nathalin's fair." TuUich on Deeside is the reputed birthplace of St Nathalan. His day was kept as a holiday in the district till about forty ' Vide Appendix, K. ^ Kal., pp. 283, 467. * Aberdeen, p. 477. Vide also ' Collections — Shires of Aberdeen and Banff,' p. 558. 398 DWELLINGS. years ago, and was held on or about the nineteenth of January. Football was the favourite amusement on the oc- casion. The churchyard, which had then no wall round it, was the place selected for the game, and the ball was kicked about over the tombs amid the snow. In Glen Lyon, in Perthshire, is Baile-a-MhuUin-Eonan — i.e., the Milltown of St Eonan, where there is still a meal- mill. The original mill is believed to have been built by the saint in question, whose memory was held in reverence for centuries in the district. A proof of this reverence is to be found in the fact that it was only in comparatively recent times that the mill was allowed to work on October 6, the annual festival of the saint.-' Mr Charles Stewart gives the following account of Glen Lyon traditions regard- ing the saint : " Christianity, if not introduced into the glen, was at least placed on a iirm and lasting footing, by its patron saint Eonan, or Little Hugh. Who he was, or whence he came, we can't tell. There is a tradition, which is not improbable, that he came to Strathfillan with Congan and Faolan, and there separated from them, taking Glen Lyon for his field of missionary effort. The constant association of his name with its religious history, the unfailing record of his work and success, handed down from generation to generation, together with the distinct traces of his personal work, put his life and labours in the glen beyond a doubt. At Baile-a-Mhullin-Eonan (Milltown of Eonan) we have the place where he resided. We have close at hand an island named after him, with a pool beside it, where probably he baptised his converts ; and some miles farther down the glen, at Craigiannie, the stone at the side of which he knelt, when, by the efficacy of his prayers, he stayed the progress of the plague in its devastating journey up the glen. The glen tradition also bears that he died at Baile-a-Mhullin, having previously directed that the coffin containing his mortal remains should be carried eastwards until one of the dull (or loops of wythes placed under it for steadying the bearers) broke. It was conse- quently borne down Glen Lyon, through Fortingall, and ' A similar feeling of respect for tlie memory of St Fillan kept his mill at Killin silent on his festival till modern times. DWELLINGS. 399 onwards through Appin of Menzies, until one of the duil broke at the place thenceforward called Dul or Dull. Here he was buried and a church built over his grave, where after- wards a monastery was instituted, and where now stands the parish church of Dull. His F6ill was until lately held at Dull on the 6th day of October."^ Eonan is one of the usual variants of Adamnan, Abbot of lona; but Mr Stewart is disposed to regard the two in this case as different persons. Dr Skene, however, identifies the patron of Dull with the abbot in question.^ The 23rd September is St Adamnan's Day,^ and it is worth noticing that St Eonan's anniversary at Baile-a-Mhullin-Eonan and Dull fell on the 6th October, which corresponds roughly with the former date according to the old style of reckoning. ' Gaelic Kingdom in Scotland, pp. 75, 76. ^ Celt. Scot., vol. ii. p. 175. ' Adamnan, Introd., p. clx. CHAPTER XXX. STONE SITES. Stone-ivorship — Changing men and beasts into stone — St Cornely — Other Saints — Standing-stones in folk-lore — Stone of Odin — "Going to the clachan" — Clayshant — Clach-math-Luag — St IVallach's Stone — St Brandon's Stanes — St Michael's Grave — Ringin' Stane — St Orland's Stone — Martin's Stone — The Nine Maidens — St Thomas's chair — Other examples — St Adrian's Cojin — Suidhe Challum Chille — St Molios — Stone boats in Celtic hagiology — Examples — St Patrick — Moelblatha — St Columba's Pillow— Saints' cairns — St Bride's Ring. " Stone-worship," as Sir John Lubbock remarks, " is a form of that indiscriminate worship which characterises the human mind in a particular phase of development."^ It can hardly be doubted that beliefs connected with this archaic cult found their way into the annals of hagiology. Stories occur of saints changing men and beasts into stone by a mere exercise of will. Thus according to a Bretagne legend, St Comply suddenly petrified a Roman army, whose ranks are represented by the long lines of monoliths still to be seen in the neighbourhood of Carnac. St Patrick, according to an Irish tradition, turned a company of Druids into stone in virtue of his miraculous powers. Dr Todd narrates a legend regarding St Ultan, a disciple of St Declan of Ardmore, to the effect that the saint, when a hostile fleet appeared, made the sign of the cross, thereby sinking the ships and turning the sailors who tried to swim ashore into great rocks.^ St Findchua changed to stone a number of horses which were driven, contrary to his wish, into a certain meadow near Bangor in the north of Ireland ; 1 Origin of Civilisation, p. 221. " Life of St Patrick, p. 212. STONE SITES. 401 wherefore the meadow became known as Gort-na-Liac — i.e., the Field of the Stones.^ The Welsh saints, Cadoc and Illtyd, turned to stone certain wolves and pigs respectively, while the latter completed the work by doing the same to the robbers who had stolen the pigs.^ In Scotland St Mauritius, otherwise Machar, after settling on the banks of the Don, turned into stone a fierce boar that infested the district ; and it is related of St Machan of Campsie that he treated in a similar way some oxen that had been removed without his consent.^ Jocelin of Furness, the biographer of St Kentigern, tells us that the head of a ram belonging to the saint, which had been cut off by a robber, was miraculously turned into stone, and, as a judgment, remained fixed to the hands of the thief till he was released through the intervention of the saint. Jocelin remarks : " The stone remains there to this day as a witness to the miracle, and, though mute, declares the merit of St Kentigern." * Instances like the above, though not in harmony with twentieth century notions, were quite in keeping with the beliefs of early times. Even apart from the personal in- fluence of a saint, we find instances of human beings be- coming transformed into stones. Thus the Hurlers — the remains of three stone-circles near Caradonhill in Cornwall — represent the effigies of a number of persons who, on one occasion long ago, played on Sunday at hurling, a Cornish game of ball, and were in consequence fixed to the spot for ever.^ On a rising ground near Hounam village in Roxburghshire is a semicircle of upright stones locally styled the Eleven Shearers, so called " from a popular story that at a remote period they were human beings who had been turned into stones for reaping on the Lord's Day."^ On the farm of Whiteholm in Tundergarth parish, Dum- friesshire, is a semicircle of upright stones known in the district as the Seven Brethren.'' The reason for the name ' The Book of Lismore, p. 232. - Fryer's Llantwit Major, p. 27. ' Kal., s.v. "Mauritius and Machan." ■* Metcalfe's Ancient Lives of Scottish Saints, pp. 266, 267. ' Black's Guide to Cornwall (15th ed.), p. 8. ' O. P. S., vol. i. p. 396. ' N. S. A., Dumfries, p. 198. 2 C 402 STONE SITES. is not recorded ; but whether in this particular case there was any idea of metamorphosis or not, there is no doubt that the belief in such a transformation was widespread. Folk-lore, indeed, has annexed standing-stones. Regarding the island of Lewis, Martin says : " Several other stones are to be seen here in remote places, and some of them standing on one end. Some of the ignorant Vulgar say, they were Men by Inchantment turn'd into Stones : and others say, they are Monuments of Persons of Note kill'd in Battel."! x^g Gaelic -speaking inhabitants of Lewis still call such monoliths fir chreig — i.e., false men. On the west of the island is the townland of Ballantrushal, deriving its name from a huge monolith called Clach-an-Truiseil — i.e., the Stone of Enchantment. Near West Skeld in Shet- land are two monoliths, regarding which the following tradition is given in the ' N. S. A.' : ^ " These are said to be the metamorphoses of two wizards or giants who were on their way to plunder and murder the inhabitants of West Skeld. . . . But the first rays of the morning sun appeared, and they were immediately transformed, and remain to the present time in the shape of two tall moss- grown stones of ten feet in height." Beliefs regarding the enchanted origin of standing -stones are to be found also in other countries — e.g., in Portugal, as thus indicated by Mr Oswald Crawfurd : " The huge columns which the Roman engineer set up along the roadway still startle the visitor with their size and their wonderful preservation. The dwellers among the hills, whose ancestors must have seen the legionaries march by, have lost all tradition of the fact, and ascribe these strange monoliths to super- natural causes." ' The removal of stones from their ancient sites is fre- quently believed to result in disaster of some kind. On the banks of the Tarff in Wigtownshire, at Laggangarn, are seven remarkable standing - stones occupying a low grassy knoll, where twice as many are said to have once stood. Two of them bear incised crosses. About a hundred years ago the tenant of Laggangarn farm removed ' Western Isles, p. 9. '■' Shetland, p. iii, note. " Round the Calendar in Portug-al, p. 283. STONE SITES. 403 some of the stones and used them for lintels in a building he was erecting. Soon after he was bitten by a mad dog, and died of hydrophobia — in consequence, it was believed, of his act.^ About a mile below the bridge of Fintry in Stirlingshire, to the north of the river Endrick, stands a cup-marked stone about four feet in height. Regarding it Mr A. F. Hutchison, as quoted in Mr Guthrie Smith's 'Strathendrick,' observes r^ "The stone seems to have brought down through the ages a tradition of sanctity in connection with it, as there is a legend to the effect that any attempt to move it is attended by convulsions of nature and evil consequences to the rash disturber." Who does not recall the tall stone of Odin near the circle of Stennis in Orkney, with its oval hole for plighting vows by the promise of Odin ? Its fate is thus described by Sir Daniel Wilson : " After having survived the waste of centuries until it had nearly outlived the last traditionary remem- brance of the strange rites with which it had once been associated, it was barbarously destroyed by a neighbouring farmer in the year 1814." ^ This farmer had only recently come to Orkney, and the natives of the island were so incensed by the deed that they subjected him to various petty persecutions, and twice tried to set fire to his house, "to revenge the loss of their sacramental stone." Some remains of it, however, are still to be seen. There is reason to believe that our early missionaries chose the neighbourhood of groups of standing -stones as sites for their places of worship. This they did probably because the inhabitants of our land assembled at such spots for ceremonial purposes. The Rev. Dr Longmuir, in his ' Madyn Stane of Bennachie,' observes : " The sites of standing -stone circles have been chosen, in many cases, as the most suitable place for parish churches ; hence some of these stones are within the enclosure of the kirkyard, and some of them have been got in the foundations or walls of old churches. The suitableness of their position for churches has been singularly proved in at least two cases : the parish churches of Echt and Marnoch had both been ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. X. p. 56. ' P. 259. ' Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, vol. i. p. 146. 404 STONE SITES. built in the neighbourhood of such circles, but on lower ground and on the water side : when the old churches went to decay, the more modern buildings by which they have been replaced have both been built among the stones. It may further be remarked that so intimately were the stones {clachan in Gaelic) and the church associated in the minds of the Gaelic -speaking population that 'going to the clachan ' was equivalent to ' going to the church.' " St Merchard evangelised the district of Glenmoriston, Inver- ness-shire, and became its patron saint. According to a local tradition narrated by Mr Wm. Mackay, the saint built his church — Clachan Mhercheird — at the spot beside the river Moriston, which is now the old burying-ground of Glenmoriston.^ The spot is said to have been selected for the purpose, because the saint was instructed to found his church wherever his bell, which came into his possession miraculously, should ring of its own accord for the third time. This it did at the spot indicated. The traditions of the district regarding the bell are thus narrated by Mr Mackay : " Merchard's bell was preserved at his clachan until about twenty years ago [i.e., till about 1873], when it went amissing, — removed, it is supposed, by strangers employed in the district. Its powers and attributes were of a wonderful order. It indicated, as we have seen, where Merchard's church was to be built. Until the very last the sick and infirm who touched it in faith were cured and strengthened. After the church became ruinous, in the seventeenth century, it was kept on an ancient tombstone, specially set apart for it. If removed to any other place it mysteriously found its way back. When a funeral approached, it rang of its own accord, saying, ' Home, home ! to thy lasting place of rest ! ' If thrown into water it floated on the surface, but this the people were slow to put to the test, in deference to Merchard's warning : ' I am Merchard from across the land ; keep ye my sufferings deep in your remembrance, and see that ye do not for a wager (or trial) place this bell in the pool to swim.'"^ St Columba is also believed to have visited the district and ^ Urquhart and Glenmoriston, pp. 323, 324. ^ Ibid., pp. 324, 325. STONE SITES. 405 " probably founded, at Invermoriston, the old church known as Clachan Cholumchille, or Columba's Church. In the immediate vicinity of its site is Columba's Well, a holy fountain noted for many centuries for its remarkable cura- tive properties." 1 Near the ruins of Kirkchrist, in Old Luce parish, Wigtownshire, is a spring known as Clauchan Well — i.e., the Well of the Church. In the same county was the ancient parish of Clachshant or Clayshant, united to Stoneykirk in 1650. The name is Gaelic, and signifies a holy stone. The church was built near the shore on what is now the farm of Clayshant, where some vestiges of it are still to be seen. Clachanarrie, in Mochrum parish, means the Stones of Worship, — arrie being the Gaelic aoradh, worship, Latin adoratio. Near the farm of Little Fandowie in Strathbraan, Perthshire, are some remains of a group of standing -stones, locally styled Clachan Aoradh. Mr J. Mackintosh Gow observes : " The names applied to this group of stones — Clachan Aoradh — which is understood as 'worshipping stones,' has no doubt prevented their total destruction or removal from cultivated ground. There is a mountain ash -tree of considerable age standing beside the only remaining upright stone." ^ We find the singular of Clachan Aoradh in Clachnaharry, a village on the Beauly Firth near Inverness. Land granted to the founder of a church was known as tearmunn (tertnon), from Latin terminus, a limit ; and as such land possessed the right of sanctuary the word came to signify a refuge. Professor Mackinnon gives the following example of the use of termon in topo- graphy : " In a place-name in Colonsay the word is pre- served with the original signification of ' sanctuary.' Right in the middle of the strand that separates Colonsay and Oronsay, and covered by the sea for twelve hours of the twenty-four, is Clach-an-tearmuinn, 'the termon stone,' marking the limit to which the sanctuary rights of Oronsay Priory reached. The base of the structure, strongly built with stone and lime, is still entire, but the cross has disapppeared." ^ To various stone sites have been attached for centuries ' Urquhart and Glenmoriston, p. 333. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. xix. p. 42. ' Scotsman, Article No. viii. 406 STONE SITES. the names of certain of the early saints. These sites, as a rule, still retain some of the reverence paid to them in primi- tive times when the saint's cultus was something more than a matter of merely antiquarian interest. In a garden at Fortingall in Perthshire stands " a tall, somewhat obelisk- shaped boulder," locally known as Clach-math-Luag — i.e., the Stone of St Moluag, its connection with that Lismore saint having saved it from demolition.^ The Aberdeenshire parishes of Logie-Mar and Coldstone, united in 1618, were associated about the beginning of the eighth century with the missionary labours of St Wallach, whose name is pre- served in the old rhyme — " Wallach's fair in Logie-Mar The thirtieth day of Januar." Close to the ancient burying -ground of Logie-Mar is to be seen St Wallach's Stone. " It is a handsome monolith, six feet high," remarks Sir Arthur Mitchell; "and one would not have been surprised to learn that tradition made it a petrifaction of the Druid whom St Wallach dispos- sessed." ^ The stone measures three feet in breadth, and is quite in its natural state, showing neither inscription nor sculpturing of any kind. It was formerly built into the churchyard dyke, whence it was removed to its present site. The old kirk of Boyndie in Banffshire was dedicated to St Brendan, and on the farm of Bankhead, near Tillynaught Station, are the remains of a megalithic circle called St Brandan's Stanes. I am indebted to Dr William Cramond of Cullen for the following note regarding them : " They are hornblende blocks, evidently the remains of an old burial circle ; but the stones are now huddled together. One block is six feet high ; another is five feet high. One upright stone has cup-marks." In the field close to the ancient burying-ground of Kilmichel in the north-west of Bute is a group of stones known as Michael's or St Michael's Grave. The Rev. Dr J. K. Hewison says: " These stones are five in number, and placed side by side, nearly east and west, the largest being four feet three inches high. On the north ' Campbell's Book of Garth and Forting-all, p. 72. » P. S. A. Scot., vol. X. p. 605. STONE SITES. 407 side one much smaller stone is in situ ; the rest have been dis- placed. The table-stone is an irregular oval, six feet nine inches by four feet six inches, and nine inches thick," ^ the whole being clearly a ruined dolmen. The site is evidently named after Maccaille, an Irishman, a disciple of St Patrick, who was consecrated bishop about 465, and died some twenty- five years later. As Dr Hewison points out, the fact of the site being popularly called a grave shows that "the local patron was not looked upon as of celestial origin," and besides, the adjoining church probably dates from a period anterior to the dedication of Celtic oratories to St Michael the Archangel. On the farm of Johnstoun in Leslie parish, Aberdeenshire, is a monolith styled in the district the Ringin' Stane or Ringan's Stane. It was formerly sur- rounded by a cairn of small stones. The monolith, as Jer- vise suggests, " possibly preserves the name of the saint (St Ringan or Ninian), to whom either the parish church or some other local place of worship may have been dedicated."^ The monolith has a cup-mark incised on its eastern face. At Cossins, in Glamis parish, Forfarshire, about a mile north-east from the castle, stands a symbol-bearing obelisk known as St Orland's or St Airland's Stone ; but who the saint was no one knows. The obelisk stands on a sandy knoll surrounded by swampy ground, and is 7 feet 9 inches in height, and in breadth 2 feet 4 inches at the base, and 2 feet 2}i inches at the top. It is sculptured on both faces. On one face there is a cross, " with small circular projections in the hollows between the arms." On the other face there are horsemen and hounds, a boat containing six figures, and a beast with formidable claws attacking a bull or cow.^ This beast is evidently what the writer of the parish article in the 'N. S. A.'* calls "an animal resembling a dragon." The dragon - symbol appears on a monolith known as Martin's Stone, in the Strathmartin portion of the united parish of Mains and Strathmartin. Its name is thus ac- counted for in the ' O. S. A.' ^ Tradition says that at the ' The Isle of Bute in the Olden Time, vol. i. p. 66. ^ Epitaphs, vol. ii. p. 334. ' Early Christian Monuments of Scotland, Part III., pp. 216-218. ^ Forfar, p. 345. " Vol. xiii. p. 99. 408 STONE SITES. place where the stone is erected a dragon which had de- voured nine maidens (who had gone out on a Sunday even- ing one after another to fetch spring water to their father) was killed by a person called Martin, and that hence it was named Martin's Stone." Jervise says : " The following rhyme is popularly believed to indicate the cause of the dragon's rapaciousness, and the progress of the conflict be- tween it and the victor :— ' It was tempit at Pitempan, Draiglet at Ba'dragon, Stricken at Strickmartin, An' kill'd at Martin's Stane.'"' There is no doubt that Martin's Stone was in reality named after St Martin, to whom the church of Strathmartin was dedicated by Bishop David de Bernham of St Andrews on i8th May 1249. Another stone in the district has serpents sculptured on it. Jervise thinks that these and the dragon on Martin's Stone gave rise to the story of the monster, and the name Baldragon ^ may also have lent its aid. The re- mainder of the legend may be explained by a reference to the patron saint of the church, and to the Nine Maidens of the Glen of Ogilvy at Glamis, who had a chapel in Strath- martin parish, probably near Pitempan. A stone known as St Thomas's Chair once stood in Hal- kirk parish, Caithness. Its fate is thus described in the ' O. S. A.' : * " Near St Thomas's Church are the remains of a fine monumental stone that was erected there as a memorial of some interesting event. It was nine feet high above ground. I cannot say nor find what the particular event was. But that it was revered and sacredly preserved, as a distinguishing mark of something momentous, appears from hence that, in John Sinclair's time, late of Ulbster, pro- prietor of that land, a set of ruffians broke it wantonly, who immediately were pursued by the neighbours, and on their being overtaken, a scuffle ensued and was the occasion of bloodshed. The said John Sinclair, heritable sheriff of the county, decerned the sacrilegious villains in a fine of a cow ' Epitaphs, vol. i. p. 206. ^ Vide Dragonsden in chap. xxiv. ' Vol. xix. p. 48. STONE SITES. 409 the piece. Soon afterwards the remains of the monument were erected, and enclosed with a stone dike at his own ex- pence, both of which are since entirely demolished." St Modan's Chair, formerly to be seen in Ardchattan parish, Argyll, is thus referred to by Principal Story: "In the open- ing of Glensalach there stood a large flat stone big enough to seat twenty people, which was known as Suidhe Mhaodain (the Seat of Modan). A few years ago a barbarian stone- mason blew it up with gunpowder, and split it into lintels for doors and windows." 1 Commenting on its destruction, Dr R. Angus Smith says : "I have never seen Suidhe Mhao- dain, or Modan's Seat, which was up in Glen Salach. We learn from Dr Story that it was hewn into pieces a few years ago for building purposes, and this in a land of good granite stones ! " ^ The hardness of such seats was quite in keeping with the ascetic habits of our early missionaries. We are told St Kentigern had a chair and a bed, both of rock, close to the Molendinar at Glasgow. "The latter," says Bishop Forbes, "was rather a sepulchre than a bed, with a stone for a pillow, like Jacob." ^ At Kells in Ireland a flat stone, six feet long, goes by the name of Columba's Penitential Bed.* Dairy in Kirkcudbrightshire is also known as St John's Clachan. In the village is a stone, locally styled St John's Chair. It once lay in the old church, still to be seen in the picturesque graveyard beside the Ken. There are traces of St Ninian in Glen Lyon in Perthshire, and one of them is a stone seat, called after him " Cathair Innian." " The saint used to rest himself on a stone seat, which any one who wishes can find sound and safe on a bank a little eastward of the Inverinian houses ; and this stone seat or sofa was said to repair itself whenever it was chipped, and woe to the person who raised hand or hammer against it ! "^ On a hill in the neighbourhood of the church of Marnoch in Banffshire was once to be seen a stone block known as St Marnan's Chair, where doubtless the saint sat and surveyed ' St Modan of Rosneath, p. 18. ^ Loch Etive and the Sons of Uisnach, p. 276. ' Kal., s.v. "Kentig^em." * Petrie's Round Towers, p. 426. " Campbell's Book of Garth and Forting-all, p. 6i. 410 STONE SITES. the surrounding landscape. In Aboyne parish, Aberdeen- shire, was a large stone with a hollow in it known as Much- richa's Chair, Muchricha being probably the same as St Macbricha, whose cross was referred to in chap. xiv. About the beginning of the present century, as we learn from the ' N. S. A.,' 1 "this chair some masons, unawed by Much- richa, spilt into pieces to assist in the building of the neigh- bouring farmhouse." St Fillan at Glendochart, in Perth- shire, had his name associated with a stone chair that lay for long beside the mill of Killin, but was wantonly thrown into the river Dochart flowing past the spot, and was never after- wards recovered. The saint seems to have had a liking for stone seats, if tradition may be believed; for in the Renfrew- shire parish of Killallan, united to Houston in 1760, is St Fillan's Chair, near the ivy-clad ruins of his church. It is an earth-fast boulder with a shallow circular hollow on the top, some fourteen inches across. To the right, as one sits, and close enough to be within reach of the hand, is a much smaller hollow, irregularly oval in shape ; and it was with water from this cavity that the saint is said to have ad- ministered the rite of baptism while seated in his chair.^ In ' Houstoniana ' ^ the following curious information is given : " Some distance to the northwards of the Kirk of Killallan there used to be a large flat stone set among the heath called the ' Kneelins.' It received the name from the fact that those who made a pilgrimage to the shrine of St Fillan knelt on the spot when addressing their prayers to the saint. So often had the action been repeated that there were two holes in the stone said to have been worn by the knees of the suppliants." Fillan's namesake, with whom he is apt to be confounded, — the saint of Rath Erenn (now Dun- durn) in Perthshire, — is said to have sat in a rocky seat on the top of green Dunfillan near Comrie, known as St Fillan's Chair. Till about a hundred years ago the chair was con- nected with a superstitious ritual for the cure of rheumatism in the back. The patient sat in the chair, and then, lying on his back, was dragged down the hill by the legs. The saint's influence, lingering about the spot, was thought to ' Aberdeen, p. 1059. " P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxix. p. 254. " P. 23- STONE SITES. 41I ensure recovery. The writer of the article on Comrie in the '0. S. A.'i remarks: "At the foot of the hill there is a basin made by the saint on the top of a large stone which seldom wants water even in the greatest drought, and all who are distressed with sore eyes must wash them three times with this water." The parish of Kildonan in Sutherland can claim St Donan of Eigg for its patron, as it bears his name, and, moreover, possesses, or at any rate possessed, a " Cathair Dhonain " — i.e., St Donan's Chair — consisting of three large blocks of stone situated near the influx of Altbreac burn into Helms- dale river.^ At Beith, in Ayrshire, St Inan is remembered by a fair on the eighteenth of August (O.S.), called Tinan's or Tennant's Day, by a holy well, and by a cleft in the Cuff Hills that goes by the name of St Inan's Chair. Mr Robert Love says: "This chair is formed in part, possibly by nature, out of the rock of the hill. Its back and two sides are closed in, while in front, to the west, it is open. The seat proper is above the ground, in front about two feet two inches, is two feet four inches in breadth, and one foot four inches in depth backwards. At the height of two feet ten inches above the seat the breadth becomes less, narrow- ing gradually for three and a half feet more when the top of the rock, as it is of the chair, is reached." ^ In Flisk parish, Fife, is a group of stones called St Muggin's Seat — Muggin being a corrupted form of MacGidrin, otherwise Adrian. In the ruins of St Adrian's Chapel, in the Isle of May, is a sarcophagus, known as St Adrian's Coffin, dating probably from the thirteenth century. A fragment of a similar coffin in the tower of the church of Anstruther- Wester goes by the same name. It is believed to be a portion of the one on the May, and to have been brought thence, or, according to a somewhat modern tradition, to have floated across itself.* About two miles and a half to the south-east of Dunfermline is a stone block believed to be the last of a group of standing-stones. Tra- dition says that it was used by St Margaret, wife of Malcolm ' Vol. xi. p. 181. 2 Sag-e's Memorabilia Domestica, p. 96. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. xi. p. 293. ^ Dr John Stuart's Records of the Isle of May, Pref., p. Ivi, note. 412 STONE SITES. Canmore, as a seat whereon she rested when journeying to and from the Forth ferry. A neighbouring farm is named St Margaret's Stone Farm, after the block. Dr Henderson observes : " In 1856 this stone was removed to an adjacent site by order of the road-surveyor to widen the road, which required no widening, as no additional traffic was likely to ensue, but the reverse ; it is therefore much to be regretted that the old landmark was removed. It is in contemplation to have the stone replaced on its old site (as nearly as possible)." 1 The lands of Margaret Stane were granted in 1580 by Robert, Commendator of Dunfermline Abbey, to John Durie, formerly one of the conventual brethren of the said abbey. ^ Arran once had a Suidhe Challum Chille — i.e., Columba's Seat — a cairn or mound in Glen Suidhe, where, according to tradition, Columba sat to rest when on his way to Shiskin from Lamlash, in the company of his disciple Mohos. As we saw in chap, iii., the latter had a stone chair just below his cave on Holy Island, and a stone bed in the cave itself. A sculptured figure of an ecclesiastic — the supposed effigy of the saint — was formerly in the graveyard of Shiskin, but was removed a few years ago to St Molios's Church, a chapel-of-ease built in 1889, about a mile nearer Blackwater- foot, where it may now be seen in a niche in the west wall below the tower. The superstitious reverence paid to the figure when at Shiskin was such that even during last century, as MacArthur informs us, it was customary for females after their confinement to lay upon the stone a silver coin as a thank-offering for their recovery.* Celtic hagiology tells how stones served as boats when the sea had to be crossed. Hunt, in his ' Romances of the West of England,' alludes to the belief that St Kea and St Pirran passed from Ireland to Cornwall in this way. When St Moluag was refused a passage in a vessel sailing from Ireland to the island of Lismore in Argyll, the stone on which he stood was miraculously turned into a boat to allow him to cross to the scene of his future labours.* Certain rocks along our coasts are connected with legends of this 1 Annals of Dunfermline, p. i8. '^ R. M. S. ' Antiquities of Arran, pp. 88, 89. * Kal., p. 410. STONE SITES. 413 kind. The late Rev. Dr Stewart of Ballachulish informed me that " on the island of Barra there is a stone shown — a large boulder with a hollow or depression a-top — which the people, who are almost all Roman Catholics, religiously believe was often used by Saint Barr as a boat in which he made firequent voyages to the lesser islands around, and sometimes even to Ireland." Baudron's Boat, a rock at the mouth of Aldham Bay, Haddingtonshire, lies close to the shore, and is covered at high tide. It is linked with the name of St Baldred, who had a cell on the Bass, and used the rock as a boat when crossing and recrossing ; though why he required to do so is not clear, for he is said to have been able to walk on the water, like St Peter. According to another legend, the rock once lay in the middle of the channel, where it caused many a shipwreck. To effect a radical cure the saint placed himself on the rock, which at his nod began to skim along the sea, and finally settled down at the spot where it may still be seen.^ St Conval, too, had a stone boat when crossing from Erin to Alban, which was stranded beside the river Cart, close to Inchinnan, where it is still to be seen in the policies of Blythswood. In mediaeval times it was known as St Conval's chariot (" Currus Sancti Convalli"), and was credited with the power of working miraculous cures on man and beast. In 1620 the magistrates of Paisley in- stituted an annual horse-race, the prize being a silver bell, and ordered " that the said bell raice be rune the first day of Junij nixtocum, fra the gray stane callit St Connallis Stane, to the said lytill house, and fra yat to the Walneuk of Paislaye,"^ thus showing that the "Currus" was a landmark in the district. Later it was known as the Argyll Stone, because Archibald, the ninth Earl of Argyll, leant on it when wounded after his capture in 1685 : and certain red streaks in the otherwise grey granite of the stone were for long believed to be marks of his blood. Under date September 8, 1827, Sir Walter Scott remarks in his 'Journal' in reference to the stone: "Blythswood says the Highland drovers break down his fences in order to 1 P. S. A. Scot., vol. xxviii. p. 83. 2 Mackie's Abbey and Town of Paisley, p. 138. 414 STONE SITES, pay a visit to the place." The fact that the stone is an erratic boulder would fit in with the notion that Conval crossed the sea on it. Martin mentions a curious stone then lying in the ruins of Ladykirk, on the Orcadian island of South Ronaldshay. This is what he says about it : "Within the antient Fabrick of Lady -Church there is a Stone of four Foot in length and two in breadth, tapering at both ends. This Stone has engraven on it the print of two Feet, concerning which the Inhabitants have the following Tradition ; That St Magnus wanting a Boat to carry him over Pightland Firth to the opposite Mainland of Cathness, made use of this Stone instead of a Boat, and afterwards carried it to this Church, where it continues ever since. But others have this more reasonable Opinion, that it has been us'd in time of Popery for Delinquents, who were oblig'd to stand barefoot upon it by way of Penance." ^ There are various stones in Scotland intimately connected with St Patrick. His name is associated with one in the island of Hoy in Orkney, on the same hill-face as the well- known Dwarfie-Stone, but farther to the west.^ In Tiree, some sixty yards from St Patrick's Temple, is a rock with a hollow on the top, four feet deep and two feet broad, locally styled St Patrick's Vat.* Opposite the ancient church of Old Kilpatrick in Dumbartonshire is a large rock in the Clyde, visible at low water, called St Patrick's Stone,* connected with which is a legend that St Patrick's vessel struck on it when setting out for Ireland, but sus- tained no injury. 'The Book of Lismore'^ records the tradition concerning the saint, that he was born "in N emptor, and when a false oath is taken under the flag- stone on which he was born it sheds water as if it were bewailing the false declaration ; but if the oath be true the stone abides in its own nature." The flagstone on which Columba is said to have been born is to be seen in the north of Ireland, in the townland of Lacknacor in Gartan, Donegal, where it is held in such ' Western Isles, p. 367. ' Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist (1896), p. 85. ' O. S. A., vol. X. p. 402. * O. P. S., vol. i. p. 21. » P. 150. STONE SITES. 415 esteem that, as Bishop Reeves tells us, " the country people believe that vi^hoever sleeps a night on this stone will be free from home - sickness when he gets abroad, and for this reason it has been much resorted to by emigrants on the eve of their departure." ^ The same authority gives the following account of Moelblatha, a stone in lona en- dowed with miraculous powers through Columba's blessing : "The legend in the preface to the hymn 'Altus Prosator,' speaking of the mill at Hy, says : ' Then Columkille himself lifted up the sack from the stone which is in the refectory at Hy, and the name of that stone is Moelblatha : and he left prosperity on all food which should be placed upon it.' This may have been in after times one of the Black Stones of Hy which Martin makes mention of as objects of religious awe." ^ A stone is said to have been used by Columba as a pillow, and after his death to have been set up on his grave as a monument.^ Carn-ma-cheasog stood at Bandry, near Luss in Dum- bartonshire. It was so named after St Kessog, who, ac- cording to one tradition, was martyred near the spot. Within the cairn a stone effigy, supposed to represent the saint, was discovered, and is now preserved in the private chapel of Rossdhu. Part of the cairn was removed about the middle of the eighteenth century, when the military road along Loch Lomond was made. Some remains of it were visible in 1796.* In Killearnan parish, Ross-shire, is Cairn Irenan, probably so called after St Ernan, who gave name to the parish. According to a Galloway tradition, the track along which pilgrims journeyed on their way to St Ninian's shrine at Whithorn was marked by a series of cairns. " A direct line of cairns from the Nith, from the Doon, and from the Irish Sea can yet be traced to Whithorn. These cairns, it is said, were commenced at a remote period at the different stations where pilgrims were allowed to rest, each of whom was obliged to add a stone to each cairn, which in course of time accumulated to the vast heaps on which strangers now look with astonish- ment."^ Martin, when describing the island of Eigg, ' Adamnan, p. 247. ^ Ibid., p. 96. ' P. S. A. Scot., vol. x. p. 616. * O. S. A., vol. xvii. p. 264. ' N. S. A., Kirkcudbright, p. 132. 4l6 STONE SITES. remarks : " There is a heap of stones called Martin Dessil — i.e., a Place consecrated to the saint of that Name — about which the Natives oblige themselves to make a Tour round Sunways." He adds: "There is another heap of Stones which, they say, was consecrated to the Virgin Mary,"^ At Portmaluag, in Lismore, is a pile of stones said to be the ruins of a church, and known as St Moloc's seat or cairn." ^ On the top of Kingennie Hill, in Monifieth parish, Forfar- shire, are the remains of an ancient circular fort locally styled St Bride's Ring or Rind. Mr A. J. Warden says of the fort : " It stands on the apex of a promontory which juts out on the east side of the hill. The east, west, and north sides of the headland are very precipitous, rising to the height of from forty to fifty feet above the level of the ground below. The entrance to the fort is from the south. The walls have been formed of unhewn stone, the outside consisting of large blocks and the inside of smaller stones. The walls are seven feet in thickness, and what remain of them are about eighteen inches in height above the level of the ground. On the south side of the entrance the wall is seven feet six inches in thickness, and four feet in height. The diameter of the fort over walls is, from north to south, sixty-eight feet ten inches, and from east to west, sixty-nine feet nine inches, so that the diameter inside the walls is, on the average, about fifty-four feet six inches. Many of the large outer boulders and other stones from the walls have been thrown over the sides of the promontory, and now lie about its base." ^ Ancient forts are not usually called after saints,* but St Bride's name seems to have been transferred to this one from a chapel dedicated to her in the neighbourhood, but removed about 1830. ' Western Isles, p. 277. - O. P. S,, vol. ii. p. 162, note. ' Angus, vol. iv. p. 405. ■• Cf. Rathmuriel, Aberdeenshire — i.e., the Fort of St Muriel, and Caer- winning, Ayrshire — i.e., St Wynnin's Fort. APPENDIX. A. Celtic and Roman Church. Mr F. E. Warren remarks : " The following facts tend to prove a non-Roman origin of the Celtic Church : — (a) " Incidental allusions in ancient documents to the existence of a primitive Christian Church in these islands differing from the Anglo-Roman or Scoto-Roman Church of later days. (d) "The absence of any allusion to Roman mission or juris- diction in the few surviving genuine writings of Celtic saints. (c) "The presence in such writings of passages which are in- consistent with any recognition of Roman mission or authority." — ' Liturgy and Ritual of the Celtic Church,' PP- 35. 36- B. St Serf's Day at Culross. The writer of the parish article in the ' N. S. A.' (Perth, p. 600) observes: "The festival of St Serf was kept yearly on the ist of July, when the inhabitants marched in procession carrying green boughs. The custom has not altogether disappeared, although the day has been altered to the 4th of June, the birthday of his late Majesty George III." C. St Giles. Chambers, in his 'Book of Days' (vol. ii. p. 296), remarks: "Veneration for St Giles caused many churches to be dedicated to him in various countries. In reference to a legend of his having once refused to be cured of lameness, the better to mortify in him 2 D 4l8 APPENDIX. all fleshly appetites, he became, as it were, the patron saint of cripples. It was customary that Giles's church should be on the outskirts of a town, one of the great thoroughfares leading into it, in order that cripples might the more conveniently come and cluster around it. We have a memorial of this association of facts in the interesting old church of St Giles, Cripplegate, in the eastern part of the city of London." Mrs Jameson, in her 'Sacred and Legendary Art' (vol. ii. pp. 769, 770), says: "In 11 17, Matilda, wife of Henry I., founded an hospital for lepers outside the city of London, which she dedicated to St Giles, and which has since given its name to an extensive parish. The parish church of Edinburgh existed under the invocation of St Giles, and, in spite of the Reformation, this popular saint is retained in our calendar. He was patron saint of the woodland, of lepers, beggars, cripples ; and of those struck by sudden misery, and driven into solitude like the wounded hart or hind. " He is generally represented as an aged man in the dress of a Benedictine monk — a long black tunic with loose sleeves ; and a hind, pierced by an arrow, is either in his arms or at his feet. Sometimes the arrow is in his own bosom, and the hind is fawning on him. Sometimes the habit is white in pictures which date subsequently to the period when the abbey of St Giles became the property of the Reformed Benedictines, who had adopted the white habit. Representations of St Giles are seldom met with in Italy, but very frequently in early French and German Art." Chalmers says ; "In the twelfth century there was, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, a farm which was called St Giles's grange, and which David I. conferred on the monks of Holm- cultram. This had probably been the appropriate grange of the parson of St Giles's church." — 'Caledonia,' vol. ii. p. 773. Chalmers adds : " In 1 5 1 2 Sir John Crawford, one of the pre- bendaries of St Giles's college, granted 33 acres of land, in the burrough-moor, to a chapel which he had built at Saint Geilie grange. This is the place that is called, in modern maps, Gilie- grange." — Ibid., note. D. Lanfine. The estate of Lanfine, in Galston parish, Ayrshire, tempts one to look for lann in its name ; but another etymology has to be sought for. I am indebted to Mr John Hendrie of Galston for the following information. He says : " I do not think there is any trace of any ecclesiastical building on Lanfine. This estate has been built up and reclaimed from moorland within comparatively APPENDIX. 419 recent years, and was formerly called Waterhaughs. The earliest spelling of the name is that given by Chalmers as 'Lenfene,' 1489. In the Kirk-session records it appears in 1568 as ' Lanefene,' and again in 1639 as 'Lenefene,' and it is still pronounced in that way by the country people. There is a deep glen with a stream running through it, quite close to Lanfine House. The most probable etymology of Lanfine connects it with Gaelic linne, a pool, cognate probably with Lowland Scotch lane, a sluggish stream, and Gaelic fionn, white or fair. Lanfine would thus be the fair or clear pool.; In Dr A. Macbain's 'Gaelic Dictionary,' Irish linn and Breton linn are given as cognates of Gaelic linne." E. St Winifred's Well, in Cambusnethan Parish. "There is in Coltness Wood, below the house, a well of some virtue, dedicate to St Winifred, and called by the corruption Wincie Well : in superstitious times oblations were tied to bushes with scarlet threed, in memory of St Winifred." — ' Coltness Collec- tions,' p. 58. F. Malmesbury. Canon Isaac Taylor remarks : " In Wilts is the place where Mailduf, .an Irish monk, dwelt as a hermit. About 642, with the assistance of St Ealdhelm (Aldhelm), the nephew of King Ina, a monastery and a stately church were erected on the site of MailduPs cell. The name Malmesbury seems to have arisen from a confusion between the names of the two founders, Mailduf and Ealdhelm, the early forms Maildufesburh, Maeldubesberg, and Maldubesburg coming from the name of Mailduf, and Eldelmes- byrig, from Ealdhelm. Maldumesburuh and Mealdumsbyrig, which are found in a charter of 675, exhibit a combined form from which the name Malmesbury arose." — ' Names and their Histories,' p. 185. G. Kirk not always Church. Certain of our Scottish place-names embody "kirk" without having any real claim to its possession. Thus Kirkintilloch, near Glasgow, is merely a modernised form of what it was circa 1200 — viz., Kir-Ken-Tulach — i.e., the Fort at the Head of the Hill, from Gaelic cathair (Welsh caer), a fort, ceann, the head, and tulach, a hill. Anciently it was known as Cairpentaloch, pen being the Welsh form corresponding to the GaeUc ceann. — 'Celt. Scot,' 420 APPENDIX. vol. i. p. 153. Garnkirk, in Cadder parish, Lanarkshire, according to Mr Johnston, means "the enclosure of hens" or "hen-roost," from Gaelic garradh, an enclosure, and cearc, a hen. Mr Johnston is of opinion that Dunkirk, in Kells parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, probably also contains the same word. He interprets it as the Hill of the Grouse. There are other three Galloway names of doubtful import containing kirk — viz., Barnkirk in Penninghame parish, Kirkmagill in Stoneykirk parish, and Kirkclaugh in Kirk- mabreck parish. The first. Sir Herbert Maxwell thinks, may signify the hill- top either of the oats or of the moorfowl ; while the second may be Cathair-mic-Giolla — i.e., Macgill's Fort. Regarding it Sir Herbert says, " There are ruins here behind the dwelling-house on Balgreggan Mains, but nothing to indicate a church." — ' GalL Top.,' s.v. " Kirkmagill." For Kirkhoble vide chap. xii. The third, ac- cording to Mr F. R. Coles ('P. S. A. Scot.,' vol xxvii. p. 167), derived its name from a still-existing prehistoric stone fort on the shore. Kirkhill, in the neighbourhood of Kirkoswald in Ajrshire, probably means, as Mr John Smith suggests, the Fort-Hill. He says : " Kirkhill is in all likelihood a corruption of Caer Hill, or the Fortified Hill. The rampart is on the outside of the ditch, not quite circular, and measures 221 paces in circumference." — 'Pre- historic Man in Ayrshire,' p. 198. H. Port Mary, Maryburgh, and Maryhill. Port Mary in Rerrick parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, recalls the name, not of the Virgin, but of Mary, Queen of Scots, who, in her despair, sailed thence on the i6th of May 1567. The writer of the article on Rerrick in the 'N. S. A.' (Kirkcudbright, p. 360) says : " The rock is still pointed out, by the peasantry, fi-om which the hapless Mary embarked on her ill-fated voyage to England. It is situated in a little creek, surrounded by vast and precipitous cliflfs, and called Port Mary in remembrance of the Queen." Mary crossed the Solway to Cumberland, and landed at EUenfoot, known, since the middle of the eighteenth century, as Maryport, in compli- ment to the royal fugitive. Maryburgh, near Dingwall in Ross- shire, was called after the wife of William III., who died in 1694. Maryburgh was the old name of Fort William, the queen having in this case given place to her husband. There is also a Maryburgh in Cleish parish, Kinross-shire. Maryhill, near Glasgow, received its name about 1750 from Mary Hill, the proprietrix of Gairbraid, and wife of Robert Graham. Till then the place was known variously as Drydock, the Dock, and Kelvindock. — A. Thomson's 'Maryhill,' pp. 9, 13. APPENDIX. 421 I. Ton. Canon Taylor remarks : " The suffix -ton constitutes a sort of test-word, by which we are enabled to discriminate the Anglo- Saxon settlements. It is the most common terminatipn of English local names ; and although it is a true Teutonic word, yet there is scarcely a single instance of its occurrence throughout the whole of Germany. In the little Anglo-Saxon colony on the French coast it is as common as it is in England, and it is not unfrequent in Sweden, — a fact which may lead to the establishment of a con- nexion, hitherto unsuspected, between the Anglo-Saxon colonists of England and the tribes which peopled eastern Scandinavia. The primary meaning of the suffix -ton is to be sought in the Gothic tains., the old Norse teinn, and the Frisian tene, all of which mean a twig — a radical signification which survives in the phrase ' the tine of a fork.' We speak also of the tines of a stag's horns. In modern German we find the word Zaan, a hedge, and in Anglo- Saxon we have the verb tynan, to hedge." — ' Words and Places,' pp. 78, 79. J. Perth Burgh Seal. Mr R. S. Fittis remarks : " The ancient common seal of Perth bore ample testimony to the tutelary position of St John Baptist in relation to the burgh as well as to the parish church. The obverse represents the figure of St John the Baptist in ' his raiment of camel's hair,' holding the Agnus Dei, and two monks on each side of him kneeling in prayer, — all the figures being within niches, or the porch of a church. The surrounding inscription is ' S. Communitatis ville Sancti Johannis Baptiste de Berth.' The reverse, or counter seal, shows the decollation of the saint, and Salome, the daughter of Herodias, standing with a charger in her hand to receive the head. The legend is the same as on the other. This seal was laid aside at the Reformation, and an en- tirely different one adopted." — 'Ecclesiastical Annals of Perth,' p. 38. K. Balmerino. When discussing the problem of St Regulus, Skene remarks : "The second legend concludes with this statement : ' These are the names of those holy men who brought the sacred relics of St Andrew the Apostle into Scotia — St Regulus himself; Gelasius the deacon; Maltheus the hermit; St Damian, presbyter, and his brother Merinach,' &c."— 'Celt. Scot.,' vol. ii. p. 274. 422 APPENDIX. L. St Bricius. Under November 13, the Rev. Robert Owen has the following entry in his ' Sanctorale Catholicum ' : "At Tours, in France, the feast of S. Britius, bishop and confessor, the nephew of S. Martin (a.d. 444)." It is stated in a note that "a church in North Wales (Llanverres, between Ruthin and Mold) retains his name." Among the representations of St Bricius in art are the following: "Carrying burning coals in his cope; archiepiscopal cross in his hand " ; " carrying fire in his lap " ; " delivered from prison by an angel and S. Peter." — Husenbeth's ' Emblems of Saints,' p. 39. M. Mael. Sir Herbert Maxwell remarks : " Mael (moyle), bald, bare, is a different word from the last [/.«., meall (myall), a lump or nob], though not easily to be distinguished from it in place-names, especially as it is used to denote hills and headlands on account of their baldness or bareness. It is found in all Celtic dialects, in Welsh moel, in Breton mdal, and, entering into personal names, implied service, from shaving the head being a sign of slavery. Malcolm is mael Coluim, Columba's bald (servant) ; Milroy mael Ruarich, Rory's servant." — 'Scottish Land-Names,' pp. 143, 144. INDEX. Abttid, 240 Abbey, a village near Haddington, 254 Abbey of Arbroath, dedication of the, 260; grant of lands by William the Lion to the, 151 Coupar-Angus, 263 Dunfermline, founding of the, 257 Lindores, 387 Abbey Bum, the, Kirkcudbrightshire, 248 Abbey Craig, the, 263 Abbey Croft, St Andrews, 329 Abbey-green, and Abbey parish, 260 Abbey - green, Lesmahagow, 246 ; Strath-Nethan, 73 Abbeyhill, in Edinburgh, 7 Abbey Hill, Abbey St Bathans, 253 Abbey-Land, at Turriff, 261 Abbey Parks, and Abbot's Hall, Dun- fermline, 257 Abbey Road, Cargill, the, 263 Abbey Stead, Red, Melrose, 252 Abbey-steads, Carluke, 246 Abbey St Bathans, I, 331 ; Godscrofl:, near, 331 Abbeytown, Airth, 272 Abbey Well, at Deer, 265 ; at Urquhart, 257. Abbotiscroft and Friertoun, at Scone, 262 Abbotrule, Roxburghshire, 247 Abbots, in the Middle Ages, 242 Abbots' Croft, Cowie, 333 Abbotsford, Mehrose, 252 Abbotsgrange and Abbotshaugh, Stir- lingshire, 267 Abbot's Harbour, Arbroath, 260 Abbot's HUl, 236 Abbotshill, Crossraguel, 244 Abbots' Horseward, at Barry, 259 Abbot's Inch, at Paisley, the, 243 Abbotismedue, 246 Abbot's Tower, Jedburgh, 247 ; Sweet- heart Abbey, 64 Abbots' Walls, a farm in Nigg, 261 Abbot's Well, at Newburgh, 245 Abbot's- Yard, Crossraguel, 244 Abbotsyke, Abbotshawes, Castletown, 247 Abbottis, Moss of, Southertoun, 264 Abden, near Kinghorn, 241 Abdie, 242 Aberbrothock, chapel of Our Lady of, 203 ; or St Vigeans, Forfarshire, 26 Aberchirder, Banffshire, 29 Abercom, 256 Aberdeen, 297 ; Carmelite Street and Blackfriars' Street, in, 259 ; the Con- stable of, 318; "Dowcatt Croft," at, 333 ! district of Futtie, at, 261 ; Halyland Croft, at, 332 ; Lady Croft, at, 339 ; Radulphus, Bishop of, 357 ; Ruidiscroft, at, 332 ; and Scone, relics of St Fergus, at, 28 ; Spittelhill, at, 383 ; St Catherine's Hill, in, 317 ; St John's Croft, at, 339 ; St John's Well, near, 339; "The Beadhouse," at, 380 Aberdeenshire, Chapel of Garioch, in, 156; Kildrummy, in, 79; Kilmal- colm, in, 88 ; Kirkhill, in, 123 ; Monkegie, in, 245; parish of Oyne, 27 ; names of Welsh origin in, 63 Aberdour, Aberdeenshire, 6 ; Chapel- den, in, 161 Aberdour, Fife, Pilgrims' Well at, 254 Aberfeldy, 313 Aberfeldy District, Appin-na-Meinerich, in, 241 Aberlady, Dowcat-Aikir, in, 333; St Cuthbert's Hospital, in, 373 ; Temple- croft, in, 330 424 INDEX. Aberlemno, Balglassie, near, 395 Aberlour, Skirdrostan, in, 6 Abermelc, Dumfriesshire, 31 ; or Castle- melc (St Mungo), Dumfriesshire, 278 Abernethy, Bishopric of, 227 ; priory of, 277 ; removal of chief Bishopric to St Andrews from, 15 Aboyne, the church of, 357 ; Lady's Well, at, 359 ; Muchricha's Chair, in, 410 ; Tiran TeampuU, near, 358 Abthania, lands in Angus called, 241 Abthen of St Mary's, the, 207 Acca, Bishop, of Hexham, 15 Achadh-na-Croise, Mull, 170 Acharn, Dewar's Croft, at, II Achinkill, Cumbernauld, 79 Achna-H-Anoid, Glen-Urquhart, 349 Acre and Croft in place-names, 329 Ada, nunnery founded near Haddington by, 255 ; wife of the Earl of March, 253 Adamnan, St, 151, 236, 241, 292, 320 ; Cross of, 176; Day of, 399; Knoll of, 320 ; perhaps commemorated in Oyne, Aberdeenshire, 27 ; St Arnold's Seat, 322 Adrian, St, 190, 411; Chapel of, on Isle of May, 50 ; probably commem- orated in Ecclesiamagirdle, 72 ; con- nection with St Monans of, 24 ^neas Sylvius, 129 ^ngus, the Culdee, 37 Aidan, St, 312; of Lindisfarne, 251; otherwise Madoc, or Modoc, 114 Ailred of Rievaulx, 60 Airlie, Brydeston, in, 393 ; St Medan's Well and St Medan's Knowe, at, 26 Alareit Chapel, Musselburgh, 208 Alban, Rath Erenn, in, 23 Aldham Bay, Baudron's Boat in, 413 Aleth, in Brittany, 72 Alexander I., 262, 291 Alexander II., 256, 257, 259, 281, 324, 333. 335. 352, 358 Alexander III., 178, 185, 231, 379, 451 Alexander VI., Pope, 359 Alexander, St, Hill of, 317 Alexandria, 235 ; St Catherine of, 20 Alford, stone circle called " Auld Kirk " in, 130 Alkwine, a canon, 179 Allan of the Spoils, 325 AUareit Chapel, Perth, 208 All-Saints Chapel, Colmonell, 156 Allt and Burn in place-names, 309 Almory Street and Almory Close, Ar- broath, 260 Almoushouscroft, at Arbroath, 331 Altaggart and Auld Taggart, Wigtown- shire, 28s Alt-na-H'-Annait, Glenorchy, 348 Amiens, St Quentin of, 144 Ammot, Sutherland, 347 Amulree, 311 Anaid, Appin, 349 Anait, or Ainnit, Dunvegan, 348 Anaitis, the goddess, 349 Anat, Loch Eil, 346 Anatiscruik, Kintore, 348 Ancrum, hospital of Knights of St John at, 368 Ander Hill, Shetland, 315 Andersmas Fair, Rayne, 315 Andraste, a goddess, 345 Andrew, Bishop of Raphoe, 40 Andrew, St, 315 ; supposed bones of, taken to Fife, 15 ; Border dedications to, 135 ; chosen as patron-saint of Scotland, 16 ; Whitekirk, in Buchan, dedicated to, 129 Angelwell Croft, 330 Angus, Earl of, at Cupar-Fife, 71 George Douglas, Earl of, 277 Gilchrist, Earl of, 199 Angus, ground called the Blessing of, 12 Angus, lands called Abthania, in, 241 ^ Angus, St, in Balquhidder, 12 ; Oratory of, 12 Annan, Brydekirk, in, 137 ; Spital, near, 370 Annandale, Corsway, in, 191 Annat, near Ardgye, 347 ; in Kilma- dock, 347 ; in Kilspindie, 347 ; on Loch Awe, 346 ; near Montrose, 348 Annat, variants of the name, 346 Annat Burn, 347 Annat Hill, Kirkinner, 347 ; New Monkland, 347 Annat, Promontory of Killigray, 344 Annatfield, West Calder, 348 Annatland, New Abbey, 347 ; atjTib- bermuir, 347 Annat's Fountain, Strath, Skye, 344 Annatstoun, Kinblethmont, 34S Annatt, Stratheam, 346 Annaty-burn, Scone, 347 Anne, Chapel of St, 382 Annit, or Andat, Methlick, 346 Annot, Islay, 346 Annotturis, Durisdeer, 347 An TeampuU, Urquhart, 362 Anthony, St, of Egypt, 36, 56 Anthony the Hermit, 234 Apollinaris, St, of Ravenna, 156 Aporcrosan, 118 Apostles of Ireland, the Twelve, 235 Appin, 241 ; Anaid, in, 349 ; in Argyll, 241; near Dunfermline, 241 ; Port-na- croish, in, 174 Appin Hill, Dumfriesshire, 241 Appin-na-Meinerich, Aberfeldy, 241 INDEX. 425 Applecross, Loch-an-tagart, in, 286 ; Ross-shire, 191 Applecross, church of St Maelrubha at, 6 Apurcrossan, 295 Arasaig parish, 120 Arbroath, Abbey of, 260 Arbroath, " Almonshouscroft, " at, 331 ; Almory Close and Street at, 260 ; Barn-green at, 260; Bishop's Loch, at, 228 ; Cellarer's, Granitor's, and Smithy Croft at, 260 ; Croft of St Ninian at, 340 ; Fisher Acre, at, 260 ; Hospitalfield, at, 378 ; Maldgraym, a . cross, at, 188 ; monastery of, 199 ; Palmer's Cross, in, 164 ; Punderlaw, at, 260 ; probable connection of Skryne with, 10, 11 ; Templefurde, near, 361 Arbuthnot, 150 Archibald the Grim, 254 Ardchattan, 269 ; Balmhaodan, in, 394 ; St Modan's chair, 409 Ardeonaig, Loch Tay, 320 Aidersier, temple-land in, 359 Ardgye, Aimat, near, 347 Ardkenneth, South Uist, 321 Ardmanach, Ross-shire, 240 Ardmannach, Mariscroft, at, 340 Ardmamock, Kiliinnan, 321 Ardmichael, South Uist, 316, 321 Ardnacross, Campbeltown, 165 Aidnamurchan, 197 ; St Columba's cave at, 46 Ardnave, 82 Ardoilean, Connemara, 27 Arduthia, Stonehaven, 321 Ardpatrick, Knapdale, 320 Argyll, Appin, in, 241 ; the High Church of, 230 Argyll, Earl of, 205 ; Kilfinnan, in, 115; Kilmorie Knap, in, 196; Kil- murdah, in, 103 ; see of, 230 ; stone, 413 Argyllshire, Kilchrenan, in, 87 ; Kil- modan, in, 106 ; dedications to St Michael in, 84, 85 Amgibbon, Spittal, at, 372 Arnmannoch, Kirkgunzeon, 240 Amprior, Kippen, 237 Arran, Kilmichael, in, 85 ; and Mull, Kilpatrick, in, 91 ; King's Cross, in, 185 ; Suidhe Challura Chille, in, 412 Arrow and Summereve, variants of Maelrubha, 119 Arthur, King, 318 Arthuret on the Esk, battle of, 31 Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, St Anthony's Chapel, 57 Ashig, Strath, Skye, 4 Ashkirk, Selkirkshire, 126 Assint, St, 119 Athanasius, St, 235 ; friend of Anthony, 36 Ath-Bhrannaidh, Glen Lyon, 311 Athernaise, Fife, 63 Atholl, Walter Stewart, Earl of, 277 Auchencleiry, 284 Auchenheglosh, Dumbartonshire, 66 Auchenmanister, Wigtownshire, 239 Auchinarras, Halkirk, 381 Auchindean, 227 Auchindenanrie, Dumbartonshire, 65 Auchindoir and Kearn, 124 Auchindoir, Kirkcairns, in, 124 Auchinleck, John, 281 Auchintreasurich, 227 Auchlyne, Dewar-na-fergus-Croft, 336 Auchmachar, Old Deer, 323 Auchmannoch, in Sorn, 240 Auchmedden, Aberdeenshire, 26 Auchnahiglash, Loch Assynt, 67 Auchterarder, Monkscroft, near, 240 Augustine, St, 179, 262, 271, 359 ; the order of, 247 "Auld Kirk," Inverkip, 130; as ap- plied to prehistoric sites, 130 Auldearn, St Colmes-Aikar, at, 341 Auxerre, Germanus, Bishop of, 19 Avenel, Roger de, 256 Avoch, lands of Kirkskeith, near, 125 ; Ladyhill and Ladywell, in, 202 Ayr, Friars Acres, at, 335 ; Milmanock, near, 239 ; Prestwick, near, 391 Ayr and Prestwick, Kilcaiss between, 384 Ayrshire, parish of Colmonell in, 30 ; Kilmarnock, in, 106 ; Kilmaurs, in, III; Kilwinning, in, 138; Kirk- dominie, in, 144 ; Kirkhill Castle, in, 123 ; Kirkoswald, in, 144 ; Knock- manister, in, 239; St Ninian's Isle, in, 294 ; St Quivox parish in, 30 Bachul More, or Crosier of St Moluag. 11,98 Back Boath, Carmylie, 389 Baculum, baculus, 11 Badenoch, the Wolf of, 379 Baile, bal in place-names, 393 Baile - a - MhuUin - Eonan, Glen Lyon, 398 Baileachaibil, Loch Fad, Bute, 393 Baile-Dhuich, Tain, 394 Bailie-Vicar, Islay, 276 Baillvanich, Benbecula, 237 Bainsford, near Falkirk, 354 n. Baitan, St, 319; in search of a desert in the sea, 39 Baithene, St, 32, 100, 253 Balantrodach, 35 ; Templar settlement, at, 352 426 INDEX. Balbirnie, Markinch, 395 ; Ruthven, 395 Balbirny, Tarvat, 395 Balbunnoch, Longforgan, 397 Balclerache, Fife, 284 Balcormac, Dunbarny, 395 Balcormo, Fife, 395 Balcoroh, in Lennox, 183 Baldragon, 327, 408 Baldred, St, 128, 413 ; churches dedi- cated to, 49 Baldutho, Kellie, Fife, 395 Baldwin II., 352 Balfron, Ibert, near, 372 ; Mollena- clerich, in, 284 ; Spittal, near, 372 Balglassie, near Aberlemno, 395 Balhaggarty, Garvock, 285 Balkissock, Girvan, 396 Ballancleroch, Stirlingshire, 284 Ballantine, Robert, 376 Ballantrae, Kirkcudbright-Innertig, in, 140 Ballantrushal, Lewis, 402 Ballikinvain, temple lands of, 373 Ballimoney, Islay, 238 Ballinaby, Islay, 238 Ballinsagart, 394 Balluig, Carrick, 396 Ballumbie, James Lovell of, 71 Ballygrant, MacLean of, 285 Balmaclellan, Drummanister, in, 239 ; Knockcrosh, in, 168 Balmaduthie, Knockbain, 395 Balmaghie, Corsemartin, 187 ; Cross- wood, in, 171 Balmaghie and Borgue, Corseyard in, 171 Balmaha, Buchanan, 396 Balmaknele, 146 Balmalcolm, in Kingskettle, and CoUace, 396 Balmartin, North Uist, 396 Balmerino Abbey, 281, 396 ; burned by Admiral Wyndham, 259 Balmerino, Freretoune, at, 259 Balmhaodan, Ardchattan, 394 Balmokessaik, 396 Balmoloch, near Kilsyth, 396 Balmungo, Fife, 395 Balnab, 394 ; near Glenluce Abbey, 240 ; in Whithorn, 240 Bal-na-Croisk, Perthshire, 183 Balnacross, 394 : Kirkcudbrightshire, 182 Balnahanaid, Celtic bell found at, 349 ; Glen Lyon, 349 Balnahanait, 394 Balnakeilly, Perthshire, 81 Balnakiel, 394 ; Durness, 286 ; in the Lewis, 81 ; Sutherlandshire, 81 Balnakill, Kintyre, 81 Balnespick, 394 Balquhapple, near Drymen, 394 Balquhidder, 12 ; Basan an sagairt, at, 287 Balsaggart, Kirkmichael, 285 Balvanie, Banffshire, 138 Balvicar, 394 ; Sell Island, 276 Banchory-Teman, Kilduthie, in, 117; and Banchory-Devenick, 325 Bandry, Cam - ma - Cheasog, at, 415; stone effigy found in a cairn at, 415 Banff, Croft Marieland near, 340 ; St Catherine's Green at, 324 Banffshire, Barony of Glenisla, in, 267 ; Fumackirk, in, 151 ; parish of Mar- noch, in, 29 Bangor, 118 Bannavem, 90 Bannockburn, 329 ; tradition about St Magnus and, 307 Bar, St, 226 Bara parish. East Lothian, 271 Barcaple, Tongland, 160 Barlenan, Kirkcowan, 320 Barncrosh, 183 Barneycleary, Wigtownshire, 284 Bamgreen, Arbroath, 260 Barochan Cross, in Houston, r88 Barons of Bachuill, 98 Barra, Hebrides, i Barras, Chapel of, 1 56 Barray, Outer Hebrides, 289 Barr, St, 413 ; or Finbar, St, wooden image of, 118 Barry, Forfarshire, 281 ; Abbots' Horse- ward, at, 259 ; Corsdaillis, in, 169 ; St Myrnois Croft, at, 341 ; St Stevinis Croft, at, 341 Barryhill, Alyth, 318 Bartha, St, in Barthol Chapel, Aberdeenshire, 156 Bartholomew, St, Cousland Chapel dedicated to, 9 Bartholomew's Firlot, 10 Basan an sagairt, at Balquhidder, 287 Basket, Ayrshire, lands of, 186 Battle of Durham, 56 Batts, The, Selkirk, 245 Baudron's Boat, Aldham Bay, 413 Bays of Kilchattan, Bute, 307 "Beadhouse, The," Aberdeen, 380 Beaminster, Dorset, H2 Bean, St, 138 ; associated with Fowlis- Wester, 23 Beannacb, /^nais, 12 Beaton, Archbishop James, 193 Beaulieu, 269 Beauly Firth, Clachnaharry on the, 405 Beauly Priory, 270, 382 Beauvais Abbey, 247 INDEX. 427 Beauvais, Festival of Maura and Brigida, in the diocese of, 112 Becan, St, in lona, 38 Bedrule, Corscleugh, in, 169 Begha, saint and abbess, 112 Bein Donich, Lochgoilhead, 321 Beinn Doohrain, 309 Beith, St Inan's chair at, 411 Beldorney Castle, 153 Bell of Birnie, the Ronnell, 24 Kennoway Parish Church, 23 Bells of the churches, 22, 23, 24, 85, 94, 98, 123, 138, 300, 320, 338, 349, 395, 404 Belretiro, Dumbartonshire, 66 Ben Bhraggie, Sutherlandshire, 320 Ben Eunaich, near Dalmally, 321 Benbecula, Baillvanich, in, 237 ; Nun- town, in, 237 Bendochy, estate of St Fink in, 22 Bennachie, the Maiden Stone of, 403 Berach, St, 97, 318 Berchan, St, 97, 188 Bernard de Broquasio, 56 Bernard, St, 245 Bemera, 231 Bemham, David de, Bishop of St Andrews, 4, 73, 277, 308 Berryhill, Auchtergaven, 318 Bervie, Craig David at, 322 Bervie, Friars Dubbs, in, 256 Berwick, Domus Dei at, 369 ; hospitals at, 369 Berwickshire, Channelkirk, in, 140 ; Ladykirk parish, in, 201 ; St Abb's, 32 ; Strafontane and St Bathans, in, 253 Beya, St, Collegiate Church at Dunbar dedicated to, III Beya and Maura, saints and virgins, III Beyne the Great, the dwelling of, 138 Bey's Well Park, Dunbar, 11 1 ^'ggaf) Crossrig, near, 166 ; Spittal, near, 371 Binram's Cross, Selkirkshire, 188 Birnie, formerly Brennach, Elginshire, 24 ; Kilforman Cairn, in, 1 10 ; St Brendan associated with, 24 Bimie's Well, 97 Birsa, St Magnus' shrine at, 232 Bishop Island, 231 Bishop's Cast, Dumbarton, 233 Bishop's Croft, Dunnottar, 228, 333 ; Old Aberdeen, 333 Bishop's Isles, the, 231 Bishop's Seat, Dunoon, 230 Bishop's Walk, lona, 23 1 Bishop's Well, Golspie, 227; Skibo, 227 Bisset, Walter, 284 Blacader, Holland, 372 Blackfriars' Croft and Wynd, Perth, 258 Blackfriars' Haugh, Elgin, 257 Blackfriars' Street, Aberdeen, 259 Black Isle, St Michael's Acres, in the, 339 ; Kilmartin, in the, 108, 152 Blair Atholl, Ctlle Aindreas m, 87; Kil- maveonaig, in, 89 Blair-na-Coi, standing stones at, 363 Blairs, Roman Catholic College of St Mary at, 208 Blane, St, 322 ; in Bute, 104 Blar nam Manach, lona, 237 Bohemond, Prince of Antioch, 17 Boisil, the comb of St, 34 ; prior of Old Melrose, 34 Boll in Scottish topography, 181 Bohtadr in Scottish topography, 182 Bonach, Bonoc, St, 397 Bondington, William de, 248 Boniface, St, in Pictland, 21, 107, 304, 397 Bonnich-Innait, 345 Bootle (Buittle), Kirkcudbrightshire, 139 Boreray, St Peter's, in, 17 Borough Muir, Edinburgh, 271 Borreray, 238 Borthwick Hall, 23 Boswell's, St Margaret's Croft, near, 329 Botary, parish of, 152 Both, booth, bothy in place-names, 389 Bothelnie, Old Meldrum, 397 Bothmernock, 389 Botriphnie, alias Fumackirk, 151 Bowden, Priestfield, in, 280 Boyndie, St Brendan's Stanes, in, 406 Boysack, Chapelton of, 158 Brachdaidh, St, 320 Brachtie, Kinross-shire, 321 Braes of Chapel-Hope, the, 163 Braes of Rannoch, Kilchonan, in, 117 Brana, George de, 340 Brandan, or Brendan, St, of Clonfert, 40 Brann-a-Phuirt, 96 Brecbannoch oi%t.Co\^xati&, 151 Brechin, Cathedral church of, S ; Trinity Fair held near, 5 ; Maidlin Chapel, 158 ; Kilmoir, at, 198 ; Chanonry Wynd, 199; site described, 228 Brechin, hospitals at, 378 ; Maison Dieu Vennel, at, 379 ; Kirkshade, in parish of, 126 ; and Dunblane, bishoprics of, 227 Breedie Burn, the, 93 Brendan, St, of Clonfert, 8, 24, 96, 308, 321. 389 Brendan's Well, Abernethy, 321 Brethren, the Seven, Tundergarth, 401 Bricius, St, 138 428 INDEX. Bridget, or Bride, St, of Kildare, J, 91, 227 ; chapel of, in Carmichael, 9 ; church of, in Coll, 8 ; dedications to, in South-west Scotland, 137 Brioc, St, 297, 310; chapel of, at New- battle, 297 Britain, desertttm in the mainland of, 40 Broomhill, Dalserf, old chapel at, 162 Bruce, Cummertrees tradition about, 282 Brude, King of the Picts, 296 Briids-bed, Colonsay, 92 Brychan of Wales, 27 Brydekirk, Dumfriesshire, 137 Brydeston, Airlie, 393 Brydsday fair, 92 Buchadlach, Fifeshire, 70 Buchan, Fergus, Earl of, 261 Buchan, parish of Inverugie, in, 28 ; parish of Langley, in, 28 ; parish of St Fergus, in, 28 ; St Combs, in, 28 Buchan, Marjory, Countess of, 261 Buchan, the Mormaer of, 264 Buchanan, Balmaha, in, 396 ; Mulan an-'t-sagairt, in, 285 Bught, an estate near Inverness, 100 Buite, St, 149, 388 Buittle, Drummanoch, in, 240 Bull-baiting at Stirling, 140 n. Bulls, sacrifice of, 140 ; at Innismaree, 296 Bunkle, Berwickshire, 279 Bunnaven, Taberniae, 90 Burgh of Kirkcudbright, Arms of the Royal, 145 Burgh Roods, at Lanark, 203 Burn Ann, Galston, 310 Burness, Sunday Island, Orkney, parish of, 28 Burton Lazars, 381 Burton-on-Trent, 48 Burying-place of the monks, the, 238 Bute, Drumachloy, in, 93 ; farms of Colmac, in North, 109 ; Inchmar- nock, in, 298 ; Kilblane, in, 104 ; Kilmachalmaig, in North, 109 ; Kil- michael, in, 85 ; St Brioc's Church in, 120 ; St Catan, in, 104 Bute, Jamiesons, coroners of, 196 By in Scottish topography, 182 Bysset, Walter, 159 Byth market, Aberdour, Aberdeenshire, 388 Cabhan Culdich, lona, 38 Cadder, Chryston, in, 391 Cadoc, St, 41, 65 Cadocus, St, 114 Caedmon, cross in honour of, 173 n. Caemhog, Kevoch, 30 Caerwinning, Dairy, 388 Cainnech, St, 90 ; the Irish name of St Kenneth, 23 Caiplie, Chapel Cove, at, 51 Cairn Cul - ri - Eirinn, Colonsay, 316; lona, 316 Cairnhaggard, Wigtownshire, 285 Cairn Irenan, Killearnan, 415 Caim-Kennagh, New Luce, 321 Cairn Kinna, Minigaff, 321 Cairn Pat, Portpatrick, 320 Cairntaggart, Aberdeenshire, 285 Caithness, Cathedral of, 117 Caithness, Corsbak, in, 167 ; the see of, 226 Caithness-shire, Halkirk, in, 124 Calaten, fort of, 125 Calder, John Sandilands of, 171 Caldhame and Unthank, 126 Callander, Kilmahog, near, 1 1 1 ; Tom- ma-Chessoig, at, 320 Cambusbarron, Chapel-Croft, at, 329 ; Christ's Chapel and Well at, 330 Cambuskenneth, 65, 263, 313, 373 Cambuslang, 64 ; Spittal, at, 371 Cambusnethan, St Winifred's Well at, 65 Cameron, bishop of Glasgow, 286 Campbell, John, rector of Craigness, 40 Campbeltown, Ardnacross, -in, 165; Crossibeg, in, 165 Campsie in the Lennox, 69 Campsie, St Adamnan's Acre, at, 342 Camus in place-names, 313 Candida Casa, 49, 59, 60 Canonbie, Dumfriesshire, 247 ; Prior- holm, Priorliden, Priorhill, in, 247 Canonby and Crosby, 390 Canongate, the, in Edinburgh, 7, 271 Canonmills, Water of Leith, 27 1 Canons-croft, Lauderdale, 334 Canterbuiy, 242 Capelhills, Aberdeenshire, 159 Capellani, 154 Capelrig, Renfrewshire, 161 Cape Malea, the hermit of, 39 Caputh, Spittalfield, in, 377 Carbuddo, Forfarshire, 388 Cardoness, St John's Croft, in, 339 Cardross, Kilmahew, in, 91 Cargill, the Abbey Road, in, 263 ; Priest's Den and Well, in, 282 Carham, Northumberland, 123 Carluke, Castle Wallans, in, 360 ; Friars' Croft, at, 335 ; Kirkstyle Muir, in, 125 ; the modern name of Ecclesmalesoch, 71 Carmelite Street, Aberdeen, 259 Carmelites at Luffness, 330 Carmichael, Glasgow, 62 Carmunnock, Lanarkshire, 239 INDEX. 429 Carmyllie, Back Boath, in, 389 ; Chapel- shade, in, 161 Camac, monoliths at, 400 Carnac, a Welsh saint, 71 Cam-ma-c'heasog, Bandry, 415 Camoth, John de, bishop of Brechin, iS8 Camwath, Halo - Crosse, at, 188 ; Si)ittal, in, 371 Carrick, Balluig, in, 396 ; Corss, in, 177; Kilquhonell, in, IIO; St Patrick's Croft, in, 341 Carrick, Duncan, Earl of, 137, 244 Carsaig, Mull, 237 ; Nun's Cave, at, 237 Carse of Cowrie, Kilspindie, in the, 107 ; Rossinclerach, in, 284 Carse of Trowan, a farm, 22 Carthusians, at Perth, monastery of, 258 Caskets, remains of saints enclosed in, 10 Cassilis, Earl of, 186 Castle Close, 227 Castle of Beldorney, 153 Castlemannoch, Kelton, 240 Castlemeic, Dumfriesshire, 31 Castletown, Abbotsyke and Abbotshaws, in, 247 Castle Wallans, Carluke, 360 Catan, St, in Bute, 104 Cathair Dhonain, Kildonan, 411 Cathair Innian, Glen Lyon, 409 Cathedral of Glasgow, Mureheid, canon of, i8 Cathedral of St Asaph, North Wales, 4 Catherine, Saint, of Alexandria, 20 ; the Cross of, 187 ; her emblem a wheel, 20 Catherine, St, of Sienna, 270 Cave, with crosses, at Kinkell, St Andrews, 52 Cave occupation by early Christians, 53 Cave of St Adrian and St Fillan at Pittenweem, 51 ; of St Monan at Inverry, 25 ; of St Rule, St Andrews, 52 Cave of the Little Cross, 176 Cave of the Nuns, Carsaig, 237 Cavers, Chapel of Cross, in, 178 ; Kirk- lands of, 122 Caverton, Holy or Priest's Well, at, 282 Ceannloch-chille-Chiaran, Kintyre, 94 Ceilltarraglan, Skye, 102 Cella Pairicii, 136 Cellarer's Croft, Arbroath, 260 Cennan Disirt, 38 Ceode, St, 390 Ceres, alias St Cyrus, 20 Chad, St, 312, 325, 341 Chadd's Well, Logierait, 325 Challoch Munn, 319 Chancellor's Croft, Dunkeld, 334 Channelkirk, Berwickshire, 140 Chanonry Wynd, Brechin, 199 Chanter's Brig, the, Stracathro, 229 Chapel dedicated to the Virgin in Stewarton, Ayrshire, 157 Chapel of Barras, a farm, Kincardine- shire, 1 56 Cross, in Cavers, 178 Garioch, Aberdeenshire, 156 Grace, Elginshire, 155 Greenrig, Lanarkshire, 122 Keillor, a hamlet, Forfarshire, 156 St Fechan, at Grange of Conon, 27 St Fergus, Aberdeenshire, 156 St Kathrin, at Halkirk, 124 St Mary, Forfarshire, 158 The Virgin, at Orton, Elginshire, 157 Chapel on the Mull of Deerness, 154 Chapel, origin of the name, 154 " Chapel, the," land called, 157 Chapel to the Nine Maidens, 158 Chapel Acre, Innerleithen, 329 Chapel-brae, near Castleton of Braemar, 160 Chapel-Bum, Lavbert, 163 Chapel, Castle of the, in Stranraer, 157 Chapel-Couch, New ICilpatrick, 162 Chapel-Croft, at Cambusbarron, 329 Chapel Croft and Chapel Yard, 162 Chapel Croft, Leochel-Cushnie, 329 ; Rutherglen, 329 Chapel-Croft of St MacKessog, 66 Chapel Dockie, Forfarshire, 156 Chapel Donan, near Girvan, 156 Chapel-Ernan, in Cromar, 159 Chapel-field, Kincardineshire, 161 Chapel-ford, a farm in Banffshire, 163 Chapel-Gill, Peeblesshire, 163 Chapel-green, Kilsyth, 161 Chapel-Haugh, East Lothian, 161 Chapel Hill, Carmichael, 9 Chapel- Hill, places called, 159 Chapel-Hope, near St Mary's Loch, 163 Chapel House, in Dunlop, 158, 204 Chapel- Knap, Kincardineshire, 160 Chapel-Knowe, Old Melrose, 160 Chapel Park, places called, 160, 161 Chapel Patrick, Wigtownshire, 309 Chapel Pool, in the Don, 163 Chapel, Quarterland of the, 160 Chapel Rock, at Weem, 44 Chapel Rone, Dalserf, 162 Chapel- Rossan, Wigtownshire, 160, 285 Chapel-shade, Forfarshire, 161 43° INDEX. Chapel Walls, 162 Chapel Well, in Drumblade, 158 Chapel Wells, 157 Chapelden, Aberdeenshire, 161 Chapelerne, in Crossmichael, 159 Chapelton, and Chapelhouse, 390 Chapelton, Aberdeenshire, 157 ; Cum- beraauld, 79 ; Dumbartonshire, 157, 158 Chapeltown, 302 Chaplainry of St Monan, Kiltearn, Ross-shire, 25 Charmaig, Church of the son of, 102 Charterhouse at Perth, 324 Cheyne, Reginald, 88 Childenchirch, 140 Chill-ma-Brighde, Wigtownshire, 93 Chipperfinian, Wigtownshire, 156 Chipperheron, Wigtownshire, 156 Christianity co - temporary with the Roman occupation of Britain, 59 Christopher, St, Church of, in the Lewis, 81 Christ's Fair, 132 Christ's Kirk, in Udny, 133 Christ's Kirk Hill, 133 Christ's Kirk Parish, Aberdeenshire, 132 Christ's Well and Chapel, Cambus- barron, 330 Chryston, Cadder, 391 Chug, St, III Church of Columba of the Church, 87 Constantine, 95 Cuthbert, 139 Jesus, 84 My Columba, the, 88 Our Lady, 144 Our Lord, 144 St Docus, Cornwall, 114 St Kennerd, 143 St Mary Magdalene, 124 St Rule, 120 St Senan, Kintyre, 102 The Dean, Argyllshire, 81 The Holy Innocents, 141 The Lord, 84 The Pool, the, 80 The Priest's Town, 128 The Saints, 82 The Trinity, 84 Church Headland, 124 Church Islands, Loch Tarbert, 67 Church, monastic character of the Early Celtic, 2 Church on the Little Rock, the, 80 Churches, founding of Collegiate, 276 Ciaran, St, 8, 312 Ciaran's Cove, Kintyre, 46 cm, history of the name, 74 Cill-an-lobhair, Kirkcudbrightshire, 116 Cill-an-Trinnein, Inverness-shire, 108 Cill-chaorain, 94 Cill-Daidh, at Weem, 44 Cill Fheileagan, Islay, 319 Cillfhintaig, in Glenroy, lOO Cill-ma-Neachtan, 86 Cill-Mhuire, Mary's Church, 195 Cill-mo-senchain, Kintyre, 102 Cillrighmonaich, Muckross in Fife, 16 Cill-Talargyn, 102 Cilia Bhruic, Bute, 120, 298 Cille Aindreas, Blair AthoU, 87 Ciric, saint and martyr, 73 Cistercians, abbey of, Balmerino, 259; Coupar - Angus, abbey of the, 263 ; monastery oif, at Cambuskennetb, 263 Clach ^nais, at Balquhidder, 12 Clachanarrie, Mochrum, 405 Clachan Aoradh, Strathbraan, 405 Clachan Cholumchille, Invermoriston, 405, vide Columba Clachandysert, old name of Dalmally, 42 Clach-an-Easbuig, Loch Fyne, 230 Clachan Mhercheird, Glenmoriston, 404 Clach-an-tearmuinn, between Colonsay and Oronsay, 405 Clach-an-t-sagairt, near Dunkeld, 286 Clach-ant-shagairt, Kirkmichael, Bairff- shire, 287 Clach Churadain, Corriemony, 337 Clach-math-Luag, Fortingall, 406 Clach-na-h'-Annait, Strath, 344 Clachnaharry, Beauly Firth, 405 Clach-na-sagart-ruadh, Durness, 286 Clackmannan, Priest's Croft, near, 334 ; Temple land of St John, in, 355 Clackmannanshire, Kilbagie, in, 112 Cladh, meaning of the word, 9 Cladhan-diseart, lona, 38 Cladh- Bhrainnu, in Glen Lyon, 8 Cladh Challum-Chille, at Kingussie, 9 Cladh-Chiarain, in Glen Lyon, 8 Cladh-Ghunnaidh, in Glen Lyon, 8 Cladh-Mhanaich, 238 Cladh-na-h'-Anaid, L.och Broom, 347 Cladh-Odhrain, at Kirkapoll Bay, 9 Clairvaux, St Bernard of, 352 Clane, Kildare, 63 Clanranald of Glengarry, 83 Claonadh, Leinster, 63 Clare, St, 254 Clarkston, 283 C\kxy and Portacle^rys, Wigtownshire, 284 Clary Park and Prestrie, Whithorn, 284 Clatt, Knockespock, in, 225 Clauchan Well, Old Luce, 405 Clayshant, 405 Cleidh-na-H'-Annait, Loch Nell, 348 INDEX. 431 Clement, Bishop, aa9 Clmnent, St, ehupol at Futtie of, 14S Clement v., .iS4 CItrt in pUce-n«mes, 283 Cleik-croft, Ilassemiean, ,ij4 Clevkington, jSj Olei'Wngtoun, t'oklmmos of, 199 Clerkis Aikcr, Kilniniliii, Ai-gyll, \_]4 Clerks-lnirn and Clcikshmiks, 383 Cleuch 111 tl>e Cross, 169 Cloister CUwc, Melfose, 353 Cloistersrat and Monksliilf, lUiny, 165 Cionai'd, 46 Clonanl, in Month, 335 ; St Finan's monastery at, ns Clonfert, t'.alway, St Bnxndan of, 40 Clonmacnoisc, Abln-y ol, 46 Closeburn parish, DvimlVit-sshive, 1 1 1 "Closes" n> Swllanjl, 9 Closlers, or the i'llosiors, (.';\iil>ness- shire, 365 Cum in place-names, 319 Cnocan-a-Chhiii;, 94 Cnoc-an-Ainj;cl, lona, 310 Cnoc«an-s«gnirt, Kilmuir-F.,ister, jSi Cnoc-an-t-sa^rl, Karr, jSo Cnoc>£rnaini, Svitherlandshii'c, 106 Cnoc-mhoif; Inverncssshivc, 199 Cnoc-t-sagairt, Kirkmaidon, JS5 Cockpen, Preston-Holn>, in, aSo Coivin, or Kevin, St, 94 Cokburnes of Clcikingtoun, 100 Coldingham, 343; Lorsj^raii, :vi, 191: priory church fouiulcit at, ,;J ; Sacris- tan's Cnjft. at, 334 Coldingham Shore, 3J Colhench Spinel, hile, 377 Colin, St, 39 Coll, chvrrches in, S CoUace, Bahnalcvr, in Kintyrc. 81 Colonsay, curious custom in. 93 ; Kit- loran, in, 106 Colonsay and Oi\>nsiiy, JOO ; Clach-an- teannuinn, l>eiwoon. 405 Columba, St, 335, J37, J53. Jixi, joj, 301. 305, 3oS,'3ii. 310, 3JJ, 341. 404, 413 J his lame, 3 ; (."hapol ol, in St Kilda, 3 ; founding the monastery of lona, 3 ; number of cluirches, &c., in Scotland in Ihirteenlli century, 4 ; St Orostau his ne|)he«', 6 \ hurying- (;io«iul of, ; his lair, 9 j Si Angus a disciple of, 13; Echoid, a disciple, 36 ; St Miu-liai- sent to Ticlavia by, jS ; dedications iit Buchan and ()vUi\ey, aS ; in Mvdl, 39; Oisert- Cohimeille, 37 ; prophecy regarding Haitan, 39 ; traditional early church in S. Knapdule, 45 ; Well at Keils, Argyllshire, 76 : iniluence of, 87 ; St Ucnvclt wanted liy, 07 ; cures Kintaii, too ; pupil of St I'iuan of Clonard, US; his h'iY,/uimii),/i, 151 : blue stone of Kladda-Cbuaiu, 338 ; parting of Urostaii with, JC15 ; islands associ- ated with, joi : I'lioc-au-Aingcl at lona, 310 (.'olun\lwiuis, Adautnan's form of Colum, 3' Columlwnus, St, 80 ColumhanMiH S. Lfoiumii, \,},^ Coluiuhv's renilcntial Hcd, at Kells, Ireland, 40*); Stone, at Utcknacor, 414 ; Well, Inveruioristoit, 405 Columkil, Torosay, Mull, ;o (."oman and Ijturence, Church of Saints, JS4 t'oinauiich, the, lOJ Comb of St lioisil, the, 34 t.'omt\u\n, or C^onian, St. 89 Contmantts, or Coniaiuis, St, 103 Coimie, Pertlishire, St FiUans, in, J3 (.\uidlaed, a hermit, 37 Cous^d, St, 140. JOO t.\mgai\, St, 143, 380; dedications to, tt7; sprint; at Dalmally of, 4^ Conieglen, Kiiityre, 104 (."onindnis, and Romulus, lUshops, 109 Connel liurn, and Taik, 146 Connel's Hush, 146 Council, St, :I0, I46 Connemara, monastic settlement at Aixloilcan, in, 2^ Conslamine the Great, 303 Coiistantine, St, 94 Conslanline's C;>yc, Kitciiess, 53 tonval, St. 140 : stoi\e botU of, 413 Convent of ISlackliiars at Montrose, (."ouvcth, Invcrnessslmc, 150; (vutsh of, in the Mearns, 149 Convcth, meaning ol', 150 Cordon, lands of, J77 Corniac l.eir, 30 Coimack, St, Abbot of Durrtnv, 39, Comely. St, 400 Cornw-all, St (.krmains. in. IQ 432 INDEX. Coroticus, Epistle to St Patrick's, 90 Corriemony, Clach Churadain, 337 Corryvreckan, 31 Cors, in Banffshire, 177 Corsapool, Islay, 181 Corsbak, Corsbalk, in Caithness-shire, 167 Corsbauld, Fordoun, 191 Corscleugh, Ettrick Forest, 169 Corscleugh, Roxburghshire, 169 Cors-Croft, CuUen, 332 Corsdaill, Sutherlandshire, 169 Corsdaillis, Forfarshire, 169 Corse, in Lanarkshire, 177 Corse, Corseland, East Kilbride, 167 Corsebrae, Fifeshire, 168 Corsecraig, Kirkcudbrightshire, 16S Corse-hill, in Galloway, 167 Corsehill Muir, Ayrshire, 167 Corsemartin, Kirkcudbrightshire, 187 Corseness, near Dundee, 175 Corse-Rig, near Melrose, 170 Corseyard, Kirkcudbrightshire, 171 Corsgait, at Coldingham, 191 Corsheuch, Fifeshire, 167 Corshill, Haddingtonshire, 166 Corshope, Mid-Lothian, 169 Corshous, at Holyrood-house, land known as, 183 Corskellie, Banffshire, 172 Corslat, and variants of, 171 Corsley Burn, near Moffat, 171 Corslie, Crosslee, and variants of, 171 Corsnachten, Clackmannanshire, 189 Corsnavok, Dumfriesshire, 189 Corss, in Carrick, 177 Corston, and Corsehouse, 390 Corstorphine, 168 ; Lamp Acre, in, 335 Corswall, Haddingtonshire, 172; Wig- townshire, 172 Corsway, Annandale, 191 Corswode, Mid-Calder, 171 Cospatricic, Earl of Dunbar, 253 ; Nun- nery founded by, 201 Cottage of the Virgin, the, 20S Council of Ephesus, 194 ; Whitby, 2 Coupar-Angus, Abbey of, 263 Coupar-Angus, St Ninian's Mill and Acre, near, 341 Cousland Chapel, in Cranston, 9 Cove, Loch Caolisport, Chapel-cave at, 45 Cove Wynd, Pittenweem, 51 Covenanters, the, 163 Covington, St John's Kirk, in, 134 Cowan Fair, 380 Cowan's Hospital, Stirling, 376 Cowgate, Edmburgh, St Mary Magda- lene Hospital, in the, 367 Cowie, Abbot's Croft, at, 333 Cragach, St Donnan, of, 156 Craig, Forfarshire, Mary well, in, 195 ; parish of, 25, 278 Craig, David, Bervie, 322 Craig of Madderty, 25 Craigannet, near Stirling, 347 Craigencrosh, Wigtownshire, 168 Craigiannie, Glenlyon, 398 Craigness, John Campbell, Rector of, 40 Craignish, Argyll, 197 Craigphadrick, near Inverness, 320 Crail, Fifeshire, St Rufus Priory at, 256 ; Monk's Croft, in, 335 ; Prior's Croft, in, 333 ; Rood Street, in, 177 ; Rudwell Croft, in, 172 Crailing, Spittal, in, 368 Cranston, church of, 279 Cranstoun, Hugh Riddell of, 246 CrassopoUie, Mull, 181 Crawford, Kirkgill, in, 123 ; the nun- nery in, 254 Creek of the Kirk, 129 Crieff, Milnab, in, 264 Croce, in Ayrshire, 177 Croceden, Forfarshire, 169 Crocequa, Caithness-shire, 171 " Crofta Divi ApoUinaris," 343 "Crofta Divi Niniani," Arbroath, 340 Croft-an-Deor, Acham, Loch Tay, 1 1 Croft Marieland, near Banff, 340 Croftmartaig, near Loch Tay, 341 Croftmartin, Kinross, 341 Croftnamaish, Monomore, 336 Croft of St Finbar, at Dornoch, 342 St John, Montrose, 339 St Lolan, 337 St Mary, Glasgow, 340 St Rochy, Glasgow, 340 St Tenew, Glasgow, 340 Croicht-an-Teampuil, Fodderty, 363 Croit-an-Deoir, Urquhart, 337 Croit-Chad, GrantuUy, 341 Croit-Churadain, 337 Croit-en-deor, 336 Croit mo Chrostain, Urq^uhart, 337 Cromar, Chapel-Ernan, in, 159 Cromarty, the Old Kirk at, 130 Cromdale parish, 28 Cros, a district in Inverness-shire, 177 Cros-Aikeris, 332 Croscrag, Mid-Lothian, 168 Crosier of St Fillan, 1 1 Cross, in the topography of Glasgow, the, 184 Cross, places called, 177 Cross, Crag of the, 168 Cross, or the Gallows Hill of the, 168 Cross, the Height of the, 165 Cross, Pennyland, of the, 168 Cross, with early Latin inscription, at Whithorn, 186 INDEX. 433 Cross, between Penicuik and the Pent- lands (socket of wayside), 165 ; be- tween Perth and Methven (wayside), 166; at Preston (wayside), 166; in Scotland, the oldest known, 176 n.; at Whitby, in honour of Caedmon, 173 n- Cross of St Catherine, the, 187 St John, on Temple lands, 362 St Magdalene, Linlithgow, 187 St Midiael, and Fair, 189 The Virgin, 187 Cross, St Helena's discovery of the, 360 Crossaig, Kintyre, 174 Crossall, in Dalmeny, 165 Crossan, in Colonsay, 178 Crossan Mor, na, 176 Crossapeill, in Kintyre, 181 CrossapoU, Templefield, near, 362 CrossapoU, in Tiree and Coll, l8l Cross-Arthurlee, in Neilston, 183 Crossbasket, Ayrshire, 186 Cross-bearers, the Order of the, 359 Crossbeg and Crossmore, Rothesay, 165 Crossbost, in Lewis, 182 Crossbuster, in Unst, 182 Crossby, and variants of, 182 Crosschapel, in Perthshire, 178 Crosses as boundary-marks, 186; com- memorative of notable persons, 185 ; in lona, 175 ; of St Kentigern, 176 ; at KUrimont, 176 ; of Macduff and Mngdrum, 189 ; pilgrimages made to, 177 Crossflat, near Dryburgh Abbey, 171 ; near Paisley, 171 ; at Rutherglen, 167 Crossflats, at Linlithgow, 171 Crossford, 174, 175 Crossford, Lanarkshire, 174 Crossgatehall, Inveresk, 191 Cros^ates, Crossways, 190, 191 Crossgills, Dumfriesshire, 169 Crosshall, in Berwickshire, 185 ; in Stirlingshire, 186 Crosshands, near Mauchline, 191 Crossbill in the north-east, places called, 166 "Crossbill," the, Strathblane, 165 Crossholm, Ayrshire, 167 Crosshouse, and variants of, 183 Crosshouses, Mid-Lothian, 170 Crossibeg, Campbeltown, 165 Cross-Kirk, in Caithness-shire, 178 Crosskirk, at Peebles, 178 Crosslaw, in Lanarkshire, 167 Crossmichael, Chapeleme, in, 159 ; Emanity, in, 347 Cross Muir, Broken, 171 Crossmungo, Wauchopdale, 187 Crossmyloof, near Glasgow, 187 Crossraguel Abbey, 186, 244 Crossraguel, charter of Robert IIL to, 144 Crossrig, near Biggar, 166 Cross-roads, sacredness of, igi Crosstoun, and variants of, 182 Crosswaters, Wigtownshire, 172 Crosswell, the, at Kirkcolm, 135 Crosswell, at Linlithgow, 172 ; in Wig- townshire, 172 Crosswells, or Rood wells, 172 Crosswood, Kirkcudbrightshire, 171 Crosswoodhill, WestCalder, 172 Crostan, 177 Crosthwaite, near Keswick, 176 Crucifield, Shetland, 178 Crueshill, Perthshire, 172 Cruithnechan, presbyter, 29 Crumtherim, early oratory of, 61 Cj-ux regalis, 186 Crystyis Croft, Meikle Methlick, 332 Culbrandon, Garvelloch Isles, 40 Culdees, the, 228, 295 ; the retreat of, in lona, 38 CuUen, Cors-Croft, at, 332 ; Priest's- field, at, 280 CuUicudden parish, Ross-shire, 19 Culmalin, 113 Culross, 395 ; association of St Serf with, 21 Culsalmond, Lady's Causeway, in, 202 ; Laurence Road, in, 5 ; St Sare's fair still held in, 327 Cultalich, Aberfeldy, Knoc-na-Eaglais, at, 66 Culter, parish of, 6 Cults, Fife, Hospital Mill, in, 383 Cumberland, Kirkandrews-on-Eden, in, 135; St Bees, in, 1 12 Cumbernauld, Achinkill, in, 79 ; Kil- drum, in, 79 Cumine the Fair, 38, 88 Cummertrees, Priestside, in, 282 Cumnock and Eastwood, churches of, 146 Cumyn, Alexander, 379 Cumynth, Hugh, a hermit, 55 Cunningham, Croce, in, 177 Cunotigernos, Gaelic form of Kentigern, 32 Cunuchar, Thane of Angus, no Cupar, Abbey of, 242 Cupar, Fifeshire, Kilmaron, in, 107 ; Lady Orchard, at, 203 ; Marie Crux, in, 206 Curadan, St, 337 Curate's Acre, Linlithgow, 334 Curate's Neuk, Kirkcolm, 276 Curate's Steps, Sorn, 276 Curate's Well, Dunsyre, 276 Currie, Temple House, in, 360 ; Temples, in, 356 2 E 434 INDEX. "Currus Sancti Convalli," 413 Cushnie, Aberdeenshire, old church of, 5 Cuthljert, St, 32, 100, 139, 278, 299 ; " Metrical Life " of, 140 ; reputed grave of, 145 ; enters Old Melrose, 314 ; Holm, 323 ; pupil of Boisil, 251 Cuthbert's Church, bull brought to St, 140 Cyric, St, infant martyr, 20 Dailly, Machrykill, in, 78 ; St Kieran's Church in, 93 Dalacsary, at Skail, 286 Dalarassie, Moy, 324 Dalcross, Inverness-shire, 170 Dalgetty, Fife, St David's, in, 25 Dalhousie, Ramsays of, 280 Dallas, Elginshire, Effigy of St Michael in church of, 133 Dalleagles, Ayrshire, 67 Dalmakeran, Dailly, 323 Dalmakerran, Dumfriesshire, 324 Dalmally, Ben Eunaich, near, 321 Dalmally, anciently Clachandysert, 42 Dalmarnock, Glasgow, 323 Dalmary, Stirlingshire, 205 Dal-mo-cheode, Fortingall, 390 Dalnaspidal, 365 Dalpatrick, Dalserf, 323 Dairy, Ayrshire, Caerwinning, in, 388 Dairy, Kirkcudbrightshire, Holy Linn, in, 313 ; St John's Chair at, 409; St John's Town of, 392 Dalserf, Chapel Rone, at, 162 Daltan, a foster-son, 87 Daminsey, Damsay, 292 Danelagh, Kirks named in the, 121 Danes, slaughter of followers of St Monan, by the, 50 Davar, or Devar, 290 David I., 190, 226, 230, 244, 245, 246, 251, 257, 263, 266, 271, 280, 334, 352 ; founding of Holyrood by, 179; the "sair saunt for the croon," 25 David IL, 284, 322, 395; St Monans founded by, 25 David de Bernham, Bishop, 63, 207 David, Commendator of Dryburgh, 250 David, Duke of Rothesay, 332 David, Earl of Huntingdon, 244 David, inquest regarding Cumbrian churches by Earl, 273 David, St, of Wales, 115 Davius, an Irish ecclesiastic, 115 Dealg-na-Ros, 171 Deanskier, Muthill, 230 Deanslundie, Kilmadock, 230 Deanston, Kilmadock, 230 Decimce hladi and/ani, 275 Declan of Ardmore, St, 400 Deer, in Bachan, 7, 264, 265 ; Abbey Well, at, 265 Deemess and St Andrews, in Orkney, 16 Delny, chapel to the Virgin at, 2CX3 Den and Z)ean in place-names, 326 Den of Ogilvie, the, 103 Deray Croft, Diracroft, and Diraland, 336 Dercongel, near Dumfries, I46 Deschu, 32 Desert of the Bishops, 37 Deserts in Ireland, 37 ; attached to monasteries, 37 Desertum, 36 ; on the mainland of Britain, 40. Deskford, Sir Alexander Ogilvie of, 280 Deuchar, The Maiden Kirk at, 207 Devenic, St, 177, 325 Deveron, the river, 29 Devorgilla, 248 Dewar, Doire, hereditary keeper of a crosier or other relic, 11, 336 Dewar's Croft, 1 1 Dewar-na-fergus Croft, Auchlyne, 336 Dewar-na-Maynes Croft, Killin, 336 Dewar Vernon's Crofl, Suy, 336 Dhalachlirich, Strathdon, 284 Diraland and Diracroft, 336 Dirleton, Elbottle, in, 268 Disert, near Faskally, 41 Disertach, 38 Disert- Chiamin, Leinster, 38 Disert-na-nespoic, 37 Disschington, Sir William, 395 Doire, or Dewar, hereditary keeper of a saint's relic, 11 Dollar, Thomas Forrest, vicar of, 276 Dominicans at Perth, monastery of, 258 Dominick, St, 144, 229 Domus Dei, Berwick, 369 Don, Chapel Pool, in the, 163 Donaldson, Sir John, 342 Donan, St, in the West, 100, 156, 292, 321 Donevald, St, 23, 321 Donnell, St, no Dornoch, Caithness Cathedral, at, 117, 226 ; connection of Scone Abbey with, 262 Dornoch, Croft of St Finbar, 342 Douglas, Archibald, Earl of, 254 Douglas, Gavin, 280 Douglas, George, Earl of Angus, 277 Douglas, William of, $6 Dove-cots, 332 Dovenald, St, 103 Dowcat-Aikir, Aberlady, 333 Dowcatcroft, Scone, 333 Dowcatland, Skibo, 333 " Dowcatt Croft," Aberdeen, 333 Downpatrick, 91 INDEX, 435 Dragon's Den, New Pitcaiin, 327 Drainie, Gerardin's Cave, in, 45 Dron, Chapel lands of Abernethy and, 378 Drostan, St, 6, 264, 310, 352 ; names in Galloway associated with, 317 Drostan, a variant of Tristan, 7 Droustie, Lochlee, in Angus, 6 Droustie's Well and Meadow, Lochlee, 6 Druim in place-names, 285 Drum, barony of, 362 Dmmachloy, Bute, 93 Drumadoon Bay, 91 Drumakill, Stirlingshire, 79 Drumanoghan, Wigtown, 240 Dramblade, Parson's-pool, 275 Diumchapel, Ayrshire, 160 Drumcross, Renfrewshire, 168 Drumdelgie, Aberdeenshire, Peterkirk or. 133 . Drammanister, Kirkcudbrightshire, 239 Drummanoch, in Buittle, 240 Drumoak, on Deeside, 321 Drumsargart, 285 Dryburgh Abbey, 243, 250 ; burning and plundering of, 250 ; Crossflat, near, 171 Drymen, Balquhapple, near, 394 Duart Castle, 91 ; Lachlan MacLean of, 205 Duffiis, tomb of King, 266 Dull, monastery of, 190, 241 ; reputed origin of the name, 399 Dumbarton, 90 ; the Bishop's Cast, at, 233; Chapelton, near, 157, 158; Spittal-Burn, near, 372 Dumbartonshire, Kilmaronock, in, 106 Dumfries, Dercongel, near, 146 ; Friars' Vennel, in, 248 ; Kirkland Moat, near, 122; St Michael's, at, 133 Dumfriesshire, Appin Hill, in, 241 ; Canonbie, in, 247 ; Closeburn parish, in, m ; farm of Kirkcudbright, in, 140 ; Kfrkmahoe, in, 144 ; Red- patrick, in, 129; Ruthwell, in, 173; St Mungo's parish in, 31 Dun Connel, Renfrewshire, 146 Dun ni Manich, 236 Dun, vicarage of, Forfarshire, 71 Dunbar, Collegiate Church at, in Dunbar, Cospatrick, Earl of, 253 ; Patrick, fifth Earl of, 258 Dunbar, Friar's Croft at, 258, 335 ; Priest's Croft, near, 334 Dunbamy, Perthshire, 321 ; Balcormac, ^in. 395 Dunblane, 229, 322 ; churches of Fin- doca and Fincana in the diocese of, 22; Crosschapel, in, 178 Duncan, Earl of Carrick, 137, 244 Duncomb, Old Kilpatrick, 322 Dundas, Sir George, of Dundas, 335 Dundas, Sir Lawrence, 393 Dundee, Chapel of St Roque, at, 18 ; Friars' Acres, at, 335; Magdalene Green, at, 8; the Pleasance, at, 7; Roodyard, in, 175 ; St Saviour's Acres, at, 332 Dundonald, Forfarshire, 25 Dundrennan Abbey, 9, 243, 248 Dundurn, 23 Duneaves, Fortingall, 390 Duneaves House, Glen Lyon, 8 Dunfallandy, the Priest's Stone, at, 287 Dunfermline, Abbey of, 257 Dunfermline, Appin, near, 241 ; Croft, Orchard, and Yard of St Lawrence at, 338 ; Queen Margaret's Cave at, 45 ; Spittal Burn and Hill, at, 377 ; St Margaret's Stone, near, 412 DunfiUan, Strathearn, 320 Dunipace and Lithbert, chapels of, 65 Dunkeld, 228 ; Bishop John of, 230 ; Chancellor's Croft, at, 334 ; Clach-an- t-sagairt, near, 286; Crueshill, in, 172 ; Gavin Douglas, Bishop of, 280 ; St George's Hospital at, 378 Dunkeld Litany, 103 Dunlichity, image of St Finane at, 115 Dunlop, Chapel-house, near, 204 Dunmeith, parish of, 152 Dunnet, St John's Loch, in, 302 Dunnet and Olrig, St Coomb's Kirk in, 135 Dunnichen, 388 ; Fair of St Constan- tine at, 95 Dunning, association of St Serf with, 21 Dunnottar, Bishop's Croft, at, 228, 333 Dunoon, Bishop's Seat, in, 230 Dunrod, church of, Kirkcudbrightshire, 297 Duns, Berwickshire, Ladywell, in, 195 Dunscore, Friars' Carse, in, 252 Dunskeig, the crag of, 89 Dunure Castle, 137 Dunure, Sir John Kennedy of, 204 Dunvegan, Anait, in, 348 ; Dr Johnson's visit to, 348 Dura and Dury, altered forms of Dewar, II Durham, inventory of relics at, 34; reputed grave of St Cuthbert in Cathedral of, 145 ; St Cuthbert's monks settled at, 33 Durisdeer, Annotturis, in, 347 Durness, Balnakiel, in, 286 Durrow, St Cormack, abbot of, 39 Durward, Alan, 207 Duthac, St, 148, 306, 321, 394; bell of, 395 ; chapel of, in Kilminster Moss, 266 ; shrine of, at Tain, 117 Dwarfie-Stone, Hoy, 414 436 INDEX, Dyce, Chapel of St Fergus, or, 156 Dysart, and variants of the word, 36 Dysart, in England and Wales, 41 ; in Fifeshire, 43 ; in Forfarshire, 42 Eaglais, a church, cognates of, 65 Eaglescarnie, Haddingtonshire, 71 Eaglesfield, near Ecclefechan, 67 Eaglesham, connection with Glasgow of, 67 ; in Renfrewshire, 67 ; Temples in, 357 Ealan-na-Coomb, 289 Eald, a stream in King's County, 31 Easa-Pheallaidh, Glen Lyon, 312 Eas-Innian, Glen Lyon, 312 Eassie and Nevay, parishes of, 27 East Kilbride, Corse and Corseland, in, 167 ; Crossbasket, in, 186 ; Wardlaw- cross, in, 167 East Lothian, Chapel Haugh, in, 161 ; Kilspindie, in, 107 ; St Bathan's, in, 32 ; St Germains, in, 19 Eastercaer, 126 Eata, abbot of Old Melrose, 251 Ebba, St, daughter of King Ethelfrid, 32, 323 ; Abbess of Coldingham, 32 Ecclefechan, Dumfriesshire, 69 Eccles, Berwickshire, 65 ; Cistercian nunnery at, 253; a pillar called Crosshall, near, 185 ; Ladies' Quarter, 201 ; Nuncroft, in, 335 ; the four "quarters" of, 65 Eccles, Dumfriesshire, 65 Eccles and Lann, 61 Ecclesiade Orda, 125 Ecclesia Machuti, 72 Ecclesiamagirdle, dedicated probably to St Adrian, 72 Ecclesmachan, Linlithgow, 69 Ecclesmaldie, or Inglismaldie, Kin- cardineshire, 70 Ecclesmalesoch, old name of Carluke, 71 Ecclesmartine, old name of Strathmiglo, 70 Ecclesmonichty, Forfarshire, 71 Ecclisland, Wigtownshire, 65 Echoid, a disciple of St Columba, 26 Echt, the church of, granted to Scone Abbey, 262 ; parish church of, 403 Eckford, church-bell of, 123 ; Priest's Crown, in, 281 ; Spittelbanck, in, 368 Edana, St, or Medan, 48 Edgar Atheling, 306 Edgar, son of Malcolm Canmore, 33 Edinburgh : Canongate, Abbeyhill, St John's Hill, 7 ; Sciennes, 7, 270 ; Magdalene Nunnery, 7 ; St Rogue's, 17 ; St Monan's Wynd, 24 ; St Cuth- bert's, 33 ; St Giles's, 33 ; St John's Cross, 187 ; Our Lady's Steps, 205 ; the Grange, 267 ; Borough - Muir, 271 ; Parson's Green, 275 ; Hospitals in. 37S Edmondstone of Hermit's Croft, 55 Ednam, Spittal in, 368 Edward L, 354 Edward H., 354 Edward III., 246 ; in Perth, 245 Edward, St, the Confessor, 259, 306 Edzell, Columban foundation at, 241 ; New Dosk, in, 229 Egglesbrec, Falkirk, 130 Egglis, Eggluis, or St Ninian's, Stirling- shire, 65 Egilshay, Orkney, 67 Eglisjohn, Forfarshire, 71 Eglismaly, Egsmalee, Fifeshire, 70 Eglismanqhwy, 69 Eglis-Marlyn, Fife, 70 Eglismenythok, Aberdeenshire, and variants of, 71 Egylysgryg, Kincardineshire, 73 Egypt, source of the hermit-life, 36 ; St Anthony of, 56 Eigg, stones called Martin Dessil, in, 416 ; stones consecrated to the Virgin in, 416 Eilean-Aidin, Loch Tay, 299 Eilean Donan, 292 Eilean Molaisi, 47 Eilean Mor, Argyllshire, 76 Eilean More, Sound of Jura, 293 Eilean na m'Ban, 237 Eilean-na-Naoimh, retreat in, 38 Eilean Nave, 82 Eilean-'n-ta-gart, Loch Awe, 286 Eilean-tigh-an-t-sagairt, Tongue, 286 Elachnave, Garveloch Isles, 288 Elan Finan, 292 Elanmunde, Loch Leven, 292 Elbottle, Dirleton, 268 Eleanor, Queen, 177 Elgin, Lady Hill, at, 202 ; Ladywell Acre, near, 339 ; Maison Dieu pre- ceptory, at, 379 ; monastery at, 257 ; Palmer's Cross, near, 164 ; Spytel- croft, near, 331 ; St Katherine's Crofts, 342 ; St Nicholas Hospital, near, 379 Elginshire, parish of Knockando, in, 29 ; parish of Macallan, in, 29 ; parishes of St Andrews and Lhan- bryd, 16 Elinanabb (Abbot's Isle), in Loch Etive, 264 Elian Mhuire, Shiant Isles, 199 Elian More, Loch Swin, 199 Elian Moury, bull-sacrifices at, 296 Elian Vow, Loch Lomond, modem hermitage on, 58 INDEX. 437 Ellon, Proctouris-Croft, in, 333 Elphinstone, Bishop, 193 Emmanuel Priory, Muiravonside, 255 Englat,St, 311 Enhallow, Orkney, 289 Ennet and Ennell, 348 Enzie, Banffshire, Chapel-ford, in, 163 Eochaidh, possibly corruption of the name Skeoch, 26 Eonan, St, 398 Eoroby, in Lewis, 2 Ephesus, Council of, 194 Ennengarda, 396 ; widow of William the Lion, 259 Eman, St, 29 Eman, St, of Rathnew, 298 Ernanity, Crossmichael, 347 Emfillan, Crossmichael, 320 Erskine, Drumcross, in, 168 Erskine, Henry, son of the Earl of Mar, 250 Ethelreda, St, visits St Ebba at Cold- ingham, 32 Etheman, St, 1 10, 290 Ethemase, Fife, 63 Ethie, Forfarshire, church of, 104 Ettrick Forest, Corscleugh, in, 169 Exmagirdle, Perthshire, 72 Fairt-chlaoidh, the doom of the, 299 Fairs, 5, 6, 17, 22, 23, 26, 27, 34, 43, 44, 85. 92, 95. 97. 99. 132. 136, I44. 146, 150, 151, 172, 187, 189, 226, 304. 315. 317, 320, 326, 327, 341, 343. 374, 380, 381, 388, 390, 394. 397, 411 .0 Falgunzeon, Kirkcudbrightshire, 138 Falkirk, 130 ; Bainsford, near, 354 n. ; Lanriston, in, 393 Faolan, St, of Strathdochart, 23 Famell, Rume's Cross, in, 188 Farr, Cnoc-an-t-sagairt, in, 286 Faskally, Disert, at, 41 Fawside, Nunbank and Nunmoss, in, 253 Feast of St John, at Carnwath, 188 Fechan, St, abbot of Fobhar, in West- meath, 27 Feil Daidh, at Weem, 44 Feill-Aonghais, 13 Feill Challum ChUle, 9 Feill-ma-Chessaig, 320 Feill-Ronan, 22 Fer-da-Leithe, 97 Fergan Well, Kirkmichael, 319 Fergnous, St, in Eilean-na-naoimh, 38 Fergus, Earl of Buchan, 261 Fergus, Lord of Galloway, 248 Fergus, St, 302, 319, 324 ; cave at Glamis, 44 ; died at Glamis, 28 ; his image destroyed, 28 ; patron of Wick, 28; relics at Aberdeen and Scone of, 28 Fermartyn, the Thane of, 88 Ferrytown of Cree, chapel at, 138 Fetteresso, "Tempil Acre," in, 330 Fetters of Silver, thank-offering of, 17 Trjoprg ^f III Field 'of the Church, Bonhill, Dum- bartonshire, 66 Field of the Cross, 1 70 Fife, Balclerache, in, 284 ; Balcormo, in. 395 ; Balmungo, in, 395 ; King- lassie, in, 396 ; St Michael's Hill, in, 316 Fife, Lanark, and Kirkcudbrightshire, Kirkland, in, 122 Fifeness, Constantine's Cave, at, 53 Fifeshire, Ceres parish, in, 20 ; Dysart, in, 43 ; Kilconquhar, in, lio; Kilrenny, in, no Fillan, St, 239, 320; crosier of, 11; Holy Pool of, 312 Finan, St, 283 ; in Aberdeenshire names, 64 ; church of, in Coll, 8 Finan, St, Bishop of Lindisfarne, 115 Finan, St, of Clonard, 235, 292 ; St Columba pupil of, 115 Finbar, St, 117 Fincana, possibly a daughter of St Donevald, 23 ; saint and virgin, 103 Findchan, St, 103 Findchua, St, 400 Findoca and Fincana, saints, 22 Findo-Gask, 22 Fingal's Grave, at Killin, 80 Finlagan, St, 319 Finnan, Bishop, church built at Lindis- farne by, 60 Finnan, St, of Clonard, 46 Finnan, or Winnin, St, 1 38 Finnich Drummond, Stirlingshire, So Finnick-Tennent, lands of, 66 Fintan, or St Mund, 100 Fintana, St, 305 Finten, St, 292 Fintry, cup-marked stone near bridge of, 403 Fir Ceall, Westmeath, 31 Firlot, meaning of the word, 10 Fisher Acre, Arbroath, 260 Fitz-Alan, Walter, 243, 357 Fladda-Chuain, the blue stone at, 238 Flannan, or Holy, Isles, 289 Fleming, Adam, 147 Flisk, St Miiggin's Seat, in, 411 Flodden field, tradition of St Magnus and, 307 Fobhar, Westmeath, St Fechan, abbot of, 27 Fochabers, Chapel of Grace, near, 155 Fodderty, Croicht-an-Teampuil, 363 438 .INDEX. Fons Convalli, 146 Forbes, Duncan, of Monymusk, 261 Forbes, St John's Close, in, 355 Fordoun, Corsbauld, in, 191 ; Friar's Glen, in, 259 ; St Palladius's Chapel, at, 150 ; Templebank, in, 361 ; tradition of Palladius and, 151 Fords connected with saints' names, 3" Fore in Westmeath, 27 Fore Boath, Panbride, 389 Forest Kirk, Lanarkshire, 126, 246 Forfarshire, hamlet called Chapel of Keillor, in, 156 ; Kettins, in, 241 ; Kirkbuddo, in, 149 ; Kirkden, in, 125 ; Ladyloan, in, 203 ; four parishes in, 25 Forgan, Friarton, in, 258 ; parish of, Fifeshire, 23 Forglen, alias Tennankirk, 151 Forgund, Dysart, in, 41 Forrest, Thomas, vicar of Dollar, 276 Forrester, Robert, 259 Forrester, Sir John, 168 Forteviot, Halyhill, near, 315 Forth, fishings belonging to Cambus- kenneth Abbey on the, 264 Forthar, Perthshire, 128 Fortingall, Clach-math-Luag, in, 406 ; Duneaves, near, 390 Fotinus, St, of Lyons, 148 Foty, or Fotyn, a district in Aberdeen- shire, 148 Foulden, Nunland, in, 251 Fowey, Cornwall, church of, 117 Fowlis and Longforgan, Ladyfield, in, 203 Fowlis, Strathearn, Mariscroft, in, 339 Fowlis-Wester.association of St Methven with, 23 ; probable association of St Bean with, 23 Francis, St, nuns of, 254 Franciscans in Jedburgh, 247 Fraser of Frendraught, 259 Frater's-Croft, Galloway, 335 Freir Croft, Roxburgh, 335 Freiris-Croft, Queensferry, 335 Freretoune, at Balmerino, 259 Freswick, Caithness-shire, Chapel of St Maddan at, 26 Friarmoor, Crawford, 269 Friars at Kilwinning, monastery of White, 258 Friars' Acres, Ayr, 335 ; Dundee, 335 Friar's Brae, Linlithgow, 172, 257 Friars' Carse, Dunscore, 252 Friars, Church of the Red, 178 Friars' Croft, Carluke, 335 ; Dunbar, 258- 33S Friars Dubbs, Bervie, 256 Friars Ford, 258 Friars'-gate, Friars'-garden, Jedburgh, 247 Friar's Glen, Fordoun, 259 Friars' Haugh, Roxburghshire, 248 Friars' Vennel, Dumfries, 248 Friars' Well, Linlithgow, 257 Friars' Yard, and New Abbey Pow, 248 Friarsland, George Home of, 258 Friarton, Forgan, 258 ; at Perth, 258 Friarton Hole, in the Tay, 258 Friartoun, at Rubislaw, Aberdeenshire, 259 Frigidianus, St, Bishop of Lucca, 115 Fumac, St, 151 Fumackirk, alias Botriphnie, 151 Futhcul, a district, 156 Futtie, at Aberdeen, 261 Fyvie, St Mary's Priory at, 261 Fyvie and Kayne, the Towstane, in, i8s Fyvy, Aberdeenshire, 88 Gains, saint and martyr, 112 Gallerus, early oratory of, 61 Galloway, Corsehill, in, 167 ; Frater's- Croft, in, 335 ; frequency of Kirk plus saint's name in, 132 Galston, Bum Ann, in, 310 Galtway parish, 122 Garden of the Monks, Tongland, 249 Garioch, Rathmuriel, in the, 387 Gartly, Priest's Water, in, 282 Garvald, fortalice of Nunraw, in, 255 Gask, Forfarshire, Kirkshade, in, 125 Gate Hamlet of the Church, 127 George, Bishop of Argyll, 91 George, Lord Seytoun, 271 George Junction, near Thurso, S Georgemas Fair, near Thurso, S Gerardin's Cave, Drainie, Elginshire, 45 Germanus, St, Bishop of Auxerre, 19 ; his death at Ravenna, 19 Gervadius, St, in Moray, 45 ; oratory of, at Kenedor, 45 Gifford, Hugh, Lord of Tealing, 279 Gigha, Kilchattan, in, 105 Gilbert, Archdeacon of Moray, 226 Gilbert, Earl of Strathearn, 264 Gilbert, St, his Fair, 226 Gilchrist, Earl of Angus, 199 Giles, or /Egidius, St, 33 ; his image carried in procession, 34; church of, at Edinburgh, 267 Gillemeluoc, 98 Gillie-Christ, old Chapel of, 83 Girig, King of Scotland, 73 Girth Cross, Edinburgh, 187 Girth-Crosses, 190 Girth-gate, or Sanctuary Way, at Old Melrose, 251 Girthgate, near Soutra, 366 INDEX. 439 Girvan, Balkissock, in, 396 ; Chapel Oonan, near, 156 ; Kil St Ninian, in, 108 Gladsmuir, Templefield, in, 361 Glamis, 28 ; St Feigus's Cave at, 44 ; St Orland's Stone, with symbols, in, 407 Glaschu, 32 Glascianus, St, 107, 396 Glasert, the Water of, formed by five streams, 69 Glasgow, Archbishopric of, 230 ; Bishop Cameron of, 286 ; Bishop Joceline of, 285 ; the Cross in topography of, 184 ; etymology of name, 31 ; Fair, 99 Glasgow, Croft of St Mary, at, 340; Croft of St Rochy, near, 340 ; Croft of St Tenew, at, 340 ; Crossmyloof, at, 187 ; Leper Hospital in, 383 ; Par- son's Croft, at, 334 ; Provost-Haugh, at, 277 ; St Ninian's Croft, at, 340, 384 ; St Ninian's Hospital, at, 372 ; St RoUox, at, 17 ; Stobcross, at, 166, 27s Glasgow Cathedral, l8; Campsie, a prebend of, 69 ; Eaglesham, in Ren- frew, a prebend of, 67 Glass, Wallakirk, in, 152 Glasserton, Wigtownshire, St Ninian's Cave at, 49 Gleann Ai&ionn, 1 1 Gleann-an-TeampuIl, lona, 2 Glen Dye, Spital of, 365 Glen Lyon, 311; Eaile - a - Mhullin- Eonan, in, 398 ; Balnahanaid, in, 349 ; Cathair Innian, in, 409 ; churches in, 8 ; Eas Innian, in, 312 Glen Moriston, 6 ; Clachan Mhercheird, in, 404 ; St Adamnan's Croft, in, 342 Glen Muick, Spital of, 365 Glen of the Bog, 170 Glen of the Church, the, 65, 123 Glen Urquhart, 6 ; Achna-H-Anoid, in, 349 Glenakille, South Knapdale, 78 Glencorse, Mid-Lothian, 169 Glendalough, Wicklow, 94 Glendevon, the name of St Serf on a bridge in, 22 Glendochart, St Fillan's Chair in, 410 Gleneagles, Perthshire, 65 ; the Hal- danes of, 65 ; local pronunciation of, 66 ; old spelling of, 66 Glenesk, in Angus, 6 Glenfarg, Kirkpottie, at, 148 Glengairden, Aberdeenshire, 63 Glenhapples, Wigtownshire, 160 Glenholm, Kirkhall, in, 126 ; Glenkirk in, 126 Glenisla, barony of, Banffshire, 267 Glenisla, Forthar, in, 128 Glenkirk, Peeblesshire, 126 Glenluce Abbey, Auchenmanister, near, 239 ; Balnab, near, 240 Glenmeran, Glen Lyon, 319 Glenorchy, Alt-na-H'-Annait, in, 348 Glenshee, Spital of, 365 Glentaggart, Douglas, 285 Godscroft, near Abbey St Bathans, 331 Gort-na-Liac, 401 Gorton, William Preston of, 33 Gosford, Spital, at, 373 Grace, Well of, 155 Grange, Edinburgh, 267 Grange Burn, Stirlingshire, 267 Grange of Conon, Hermitage, Chapel, and Well of St Fechan at, 27 Grange parish, Banffshire, 267 Granitor's Croft, Arbroath, 260 GrantuUy, Croit-Chad, at, 341 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, relics of the Templars in the, 361 Grave-yard of the Desert, 38 Gray, Edward, rector of Lundy, 208 Green, St Boswell's Fair held on St Boswell's, 34 Greenside, Edinburgh, Leper Hospital at, 382 Griom, or Grioma, St, 311 " Gudeman's Croft, the," 328 Guinoche, St, 8 Guirth, the, 361 Gunim Castri, 72 Haarfager, King of Norway, 232 Haddington, Nunhopes, near, 255 ; Nungate and Nunside, near, 255 ; St Lawrence House, near, 393 Haddingtonshire, Corshill, in, 166 ; Whitekirk, in, 129 Hakin, Earl, 232, 307 ; murder of St Magnus by, 68 Haldane of Gleneagles, 65 Halden, John, of Gleneagles, 41 Haliedean, Great Deer Park of, 326 Halkirk, Caithness-shire, 124, 226 ; St Thomas's Chair, at, 408 Halkirk and Watten, Spittal Hill, in, 380 Hallow Chapel, Ayrshire, 155 Halo-Crosse, Carnwath, 188 Halyhill, near Forteviot, 315 HalylSnd Croft, Aberdeen, 332 Hamilton, Spitelholme, at, 371 Hamilton and Dalziel, Motherwell, in, 195 Harald, first Bishop of Argyll, 99; 6rst Bishop of Dunkeld, 230 Harbour of the Church, the, Dumbarton- shire, 77 440 INDEX. Harbour of the Community, 236 Harbour of the Cross, 174 Harby, Nottinghamshire, 177 Harlaw, Aberdeenshire, Temple Croft, at, 330. 360 Hart, legend of the White, 179 Hassendean, Clerk - croft, in, 334 ; hospital at, 369 ; Monks' Croft and Tower at, 252, 334 Hauch, or Prestonhaugh, Haddington- shire, 128 Haven of the Martyrs, lona, 13 Hay, Sir William, of Locherwart, 32 Hebrides, the, 231 ; Barray, in the Outer, 289 Hecclegirth, near Annan, 67 Helen, St, 302 Hell's Glen, Lochgoilhead, II Helsker, Husker, 237 Henry, son of Anselm, 239 Hepburn, Elizabeth, prioress of Nunraw, Hepburn, suppression of St Leonard's Hospital, Fife, by Prior, 17 Hermit of Cape Malea, the, 39 Hermitage and Chapel of St Anthony on Arthur's Seat, 57 ; of St Oswald, 146 Hermitage Castle, Roxburghshire, 55 Hermitage in Kilbucho parish, 54; in Kilgary, Forfarshire, 55 ; at Loretto, 54 ; of St Fechan at Grange of Conon, 27 ; in Tay Valley, 55 Hermitage, Superior of the, 38 Hermitage Water, 55 Hermitages, pilgrimages made to, 56 Hermit's Croft, Menteith, 55, 335 Hermits and Hermitages, 36 Hermits and Temiits, 58 Hexham, Acca, Bishop of, 15 Hi, or lona, date of founding of the monastery of, 3 Hilda, St, convent of, at Whitby, 112 Hillmabreedia, Wigtownshire, 93 Hirscha Hill, Auchinblae, 151 Hobkirk, Hopekirk, Roxburghshire, 127 Hoddam, 31 Hodelm, old form of Hoddam, 31 Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, 35 Holm in place-names, 280 Holy-Cross Day Fair, 172 Holy Island, Lamlash, 47, 289 Holy Kirk in Shetland, the, 130 Holy Linn, Kirkcudbrightshire, 313 Holy Loch, Firth of Clyde, 306 Holy Trinity, Church of the, 228 Holy Well of St Mackessog, Drymen, 66 Holyman Head, Elginshire, 45 Holyrood, sites connected with, 7 ; Cor- storphine granted to, 168 ; founding of, 179 ; origin of, 243, 270 ; St Cuthbert's bestowed on, 33 Holyrood Abbey, 269 Holyroodhouse, land named Corshous, at, 183 Holywell, Flintshire, 6$ Holywood, hospital at, 369 Home, George, of Friarsland, 258 Honorius, Pope, 352 Hospital at Hassendean, 369 ; at Holy- wood, 369 ; at Legerwood, 369 ; at Sanquhar, 369 ; at Trailtrow, 370 Hospital of St Cuthbert, Aberlady, 373 Knight of St John, at Ancrum, 368 St Leonard, in Fife, 1 7 ; near Lanark, 370 Hospital Mill, Cults, Fife, 383 Hospitalfield, Arbroath, 378 Hospitallers, the, 2 Hospitallers, or Knights of St John of Jerusalem, 355 Hospitals, at Berwick, 369 ; in Edin- burgh, 375; in Lothian, 373, 374; in Strafontane, 369 ; law anent the reformation of, 364 n. Hospitill, Rosskeen, 380 Hounam, the Eleven Shearers, at, 401 House of the Holy Ghost, at church of Dipple, 391 Houston, Barochan Cross, in, 188 Hoy, Dwarfie-Stone of, 414 ; St Patrick's Stone, in, 414 Hugh de Morville, Lord of Cunning- hame, 115 Hugh of Over, 242 Hugo de Paduinan, 85 Huntingdon, David, Earl of, 244 Hurlers, the, Caradonhill, 401 Hutton, St John's Hospital in, 369 Hy, the Black Stones of, 415 Hy Maine, an Irish tribe, 1 1 3 Ibert, near Balfron, 372 Inch in place-names, 297 Inch, Wigtownshire, St John's Croft, in, 339 Inch Kenneth, near Mull, 298 Inch-Aidan, Perthshire, 299 Inchaffray, Madderty, 297 ; the Abbey of, 264 ; Perthshire, 1 1 Inchbrayock, Forfarshire, 25, 297 Inchcolm, Firth of Forth, 3, 291 Inch-Gailleach, 239 Inchinnan, near Renfrew, 298, 357 ; Lady Acre, in, 339 ; Our Lady's Altar, at, 203 ; reputed cell of St Conval at, 147 Inchkeiie, Fifeshire, 70 Inchmahomac, Perthshire, 250 Inch-ma-home, Lake of Menteith, 237, 298 ; priory of, 394 INDEX. 441 Inchmarnock, near Ballater, 196, 298 Inchmartin, 18 Inch-Martyn, Fifeshire, 70 Inchmichael, Carse of Gowrie, 297 Inchmnrrin, Inch - cailleach, Inch - ta- Vannoch, 300 Inch-ta-Vannoch, 239 Inferendum, Gaelic ifrinn, 1 1 Ii^lebourne Castle, 113 Inglismaldie, or EcclesmEildie, Kin- cardineshire, 70 Iniscapel, Kilchattan, 160 Inis-Chonain, Loch Awe, 300 Inis-nan-Druineach, 291 Innerleithen, Chapel Acre, in, 329 ; Priesthope, in, 281 Innismaree, 295 Innocent III., Pope, 230 Insch, Inverness-shire, Celtic bell in parish church of, 320 Insula missarum, Perthshire, 11 Inveraiy, formerly Kylmalduff, 112 Inveraven parish, Chapelton of Kil- maichlie, in, 108 Inverhervie, 256 Inverchaolain, Kilmarnock, in, 106 Inveresk, Crossgatehall, in, 191 Inverey, St Monans, 24 Inverkeillor, church of Ethie, in, 104 Inverkeithing, Spittalfield, near, 377 Inverkip, parish of, 130 Invermoiiston, Clachan Cholumchille, at, 405 ; Columba's Well, at, 405 Invemess-shire, Con veth, in, 1 50 ; Cros, in, 177; Dalcross, in, 170; Kilmichael, in, 85; Kil St Ninian, in, 108; Ward- law and Farnua parishes in, 123 Inverry, St Monans, 50; St Monan's Cave at, 25 Invertiel, Sanct-German's Aikar, 341 Invenigie, in Buchan, parish of, 28 Inverurie, Polnar Chapel, a farm in, 156 lollen-na-Moinoch, 237 lona, Columba's prophecy about, 292 ; crosses in, 175 ; the Glen of the Church in, 2 ; Harbour of the Currach in, 308; John, Abbot of, 231 : Moel- blatha, a stone, in, 415 ; monastic names in, 236, 237 ; Port-na-Mairtear, in, 13 ; raided by Norsemen, 13 ; retreats in, 38 ; St Baithene, abbot of, lothamaise, in Leinster, 63 Ireland, no ancient dedications to the Virgin in, 194 ; large number of Episcopal deserts in, 37 ; Kilmurry, in, 195 ; Mo-Chaemhog Latinised into Pulcherius, in, 30 ; St Patrick not a native of, 90 ; the Twelve Apostles of, 23s Irenseus, St, of Lyons, 1 10 Imiehill, Fifeshire, no Irongray, Killylour, in, 116 Ironmannach, near Parton, 240 Island More, chapel on, 155 Island Nave, near Islay, 289 Island of Masses (Inchaffray), 1 1 Island of the Chapel, 160 Island of the Saints, 82 Islands associated with St Columba, 291 Islay, Annot, in, 346 ; Bailie-Vicar, in, 276; Ballimoney, in, 238; Cill Fheileagan, in, 319; Corsapool, in, 181; Kilarrow, in, 1 19 ; Kilchoman, in the Rhins of, 89 ; Killinallin, in, 116 ; Kilmeny, in, 113; Kilnave, in, 82; Knocklearoch, in, 284 ; Persebus, in, 283 Isle of Man, form of name Cill in the, 7S ; frequency of Kirks in, 122 ; Kirk Manghold, in, 109 Isle of May, 50 Isle of Saints, the, 289 Isle of Whithorn, Portbriar, in, 240 Isles of SciUy, hermitage in the, 21 Isles, the See of the, 231 Ivo, a friar, 353 James, Earl of Morton, 254 James, Earl of Perth, 338 James, Lord Hamilton, Endowment of Hospital of St Catherine by, 20 James L, 317, 374 ; enactment anent lepers by, 381 James II., 186, 330 James III., 231 James IV., 201, 202, 308, 392, 394 James VI., 233, 250, 378 James, St, 243, 300 ; Day and Fair of, in Roxburghshire, 17 James's Temple, Knockbain, 363 Jamiesons, Coroners of Bute, 196 Jay, Brian de, 354 Jedburgh, Friars-gate, in, 247 ; Maison Dieu, at, 367 ; Maison Dieu Acres, 331 ; Rood Acres, at, 332 Jedworth, Jedburgh, monastery of, 246 Jocelin, Bishop, 239 Jocelin of Furness, 401 Joceline, Bishop of Glasgow, 285 Johanna, 239 John, Abbot of lona, 231 John Baliol, 248 John, Bishop of Dunkeld, 230 John of Eltham, 246 John of Morham, 63 John, St, 262, 302, 316 ; Church of, at Perth, 276 ; figure of, 196 John the Baptist, St, 378 John the Evangelist, St, 264 Johnson, Dunvegan visited by Dr, 348 Julitta, mother of St Cyric, 20 442 INDEX. Jura, Kilearnadale in, 105 ; the Paps of, 89 Kailzie, Peeblesshire, the Kirkburn in, 124; parish of, 124 Kapelrig, and Chapelside, Ayrshire, 161 Kea, St, and St Pirran, 412 Keeil, Manx form of Cill or Kil, 75 Keil as a place-name and affix in Argyllshire, 75> 7^ Keillor, Chapel of, 156 Keils, Southend, Argyllshire, 76 Keith, or Kethraalruf, 6; St Alex- ander's Fair at, 317 Keith, St, 290 Kellie, Fife, Baldiitho, in, 395, Kells, Ireland, Columba's Penitential Bed at, 409 Kells, Kirkcudbrightshire, 77 ; Lane- mannoch, in, 240 Kelso Abbey, 245, 246 Kelton, Castlemannoch, in, 240 ; Kirk- lane in, 123 Kenedor, Oratory of St Gervadius at, 45 Kennedy, Sir John, of Dunure, 204 Kenneth, King of the Scots, 251 Kenneth, St, 8, 90, 321 ; commemo- rated in Kennoway, 23 Kennethmont, Aberdeenshire, Christ's Kirk parish in, 132 Kennoway, Fife, commemorated by St Kenneth, 23 ; Fife, parish church bell of, now at Borthwick Hall, 23 Kentigern, St, 4, 239, 300, 401 ; chair of, on Molendinar Burn, 409 ; crosses of, 176 ; etymological connection with Glasgow of the name, 32 Ker, Mark, last Abbot of Newbattle, 268, 284 Kermanachan, Kirkcolm, 334 Kerran Water, Kintyre, 310 Kessock Ferry, 307 Kessog, or Makkessoch, St, 102, 300, 396, 415 ; fairs of, 320 Kethmalruf, 6 Kettins, Forfarshire, 241 Kettle, modern name of Lathrisk, 63 Kevoca, St, patroness of Kyle, 30 ; and virgin, 30 Kevoch Burn, 310 Kevoch, Evoch, variants of St Quivox, 30 Kiels, North Knapdale, 76 Kienan, St, 61 Kieran, St, 310, 323 Kil as a farm-name prefix, 8 Kil, frequency of the prefix in Ireland, 74 Kil in Scottish place-names not always Cill, 75 AV/and kirk, 121 Kil Josa, 84 Kil St Ninian, Ayrshire, 108; Inver- ness-shire, 108 Kilallan, St Fillan's Chair, in, 410 Kilarrow, Islay, 119 Kilbag-head, in Lochs parish, 112 Kilbagie, Clackmannanshire, 112 Kilbar, 290 Kilbarchan, Renfrewshire, 97 Kilbarr, in Barray, 117 Kilbarry, Ireland, 97, 318 Kilbartha, Aberdeenshire, III Kilbegie, North Knapdale, 112 Kilberry, Argyll, 318 ; parish of, Kintyre, 97 Kilbimie, in North of Scotland, 96, 97 Kilblane, Bute, 104 ; Inverary, 104 ; in parish of Kirkmahoe, 144 Kilbrandon, 96 Kilbrennan Sound, 96 Kilbride, in Coll, 8 ; in Tiree, 8 ; in islands of Harris and Arran, 93 Kilbride as a non-parochial name, 93 ; frequency of the name, 92 Kilbride and Kilmore, in Lorn, 198 Kilbride Loch and Hill, Dumfriesshire, 93 Kilbucho, Peeblesshire, 112; Hermi- tage, in, 54 Kilcaiss, between Ayr and Prestvrick, 384 Kilcalmonell, Kintyre, 81, 89 Kilchainie, 90 Kilchalman, North Uist, 1O9 Kilchalmanel, Kintyre, 90 Kilchalmkil, North Uist, 3, 88 Kilchattan, I, 96 Kilchattan, at Colonsay, 105 ; at Gigha, 105 Kilchattan, Island of the Chapel, in, 160 Kilchattan Bay, Bute, 104 Kilchenich, in Tiree, 8 Kilchenzie, Kintyre, 90 Kilchenzie Castle, Ayrshire, 90 Kilchiaran, Kintyre, 93 Kilchoan, Lochalsh, 116 Kilchoman, Rhins of Islay, 89 Kilchonan, Braes of Rannoch, 117 Kilchousland, 94 Kilchrenan, Loch Awe, 81, 230 Kilchrist, Mull, 84 ; parish of, in Ross- shire, 83 ; parish of, in Skye, 84 Kilchuimen, 88 Kilcolmkill, frequency of the name, 87 Kilconquhar, Fifeshire, no Kilcormack, 135 Kilcreggan, 80 Kilda Chusalam, 95^ INDEX. 443 Kildalton, Islay, 86 Kildare, St Bridget's monastery at, 37 ; shrine of St Bridget at, 92 KUdavie, Kintyre, 114 Kildonan, l, 262 ; Cathair Dhonain, in, 411 ; Island of Eigg in, loi ; variants of the name, loi Kildorais, Skye, 1 1 1 Kildrum, Cumbernauld, 79 Kildrummy, in Aberdeenshire and Nairnshire, 79 ; Templeton, in, 360 Kilduich, Ross-^re, 117 Kil-duianach, 10 1 Kilduslan, Kilduskland, 95 Kilduthie, Banchoiy-Ternan, 117 Kileamadale, Jura, 105 Kilemadill, Jura, 105 Kilfeather, Wigtownshire, 86 KilfiUan, Church of, Sorbie, Wigtown- shire, 116 Kilfillan farm, Old Luce, Wigtown- shire, 116 Kilfinichen, Mull, 103, 196 Kiifiimaig, in Coll, S Kilfinnan, in Argyll, US ! 'n Tiree, 8 Kilforman Cairn, Elginshire, no Kilkenan, Ayrshire, 93 ; Castle of, 78 Kilkivan, 94 Killallan, a parish in Renfrewshire, 116 Killantringan, Wigtownshire, 108 Kilkan, a burying-place, 80 Killean, in Sutherlandshire, 86 ; in Moll, 86 Killeam and Killem, 106 Killeaman, Cairn Trenan, in, 415 ; in Ross and Sutherland, ic6 ; Spittal, in, 380 Killelane, or Killenane, Inverchaolain, 116 Killellan, an estate near Campbeltown, 116; Ross-shire, 116 Killenane, or Killelane, Inverchaolain, 116 Killeneck, Mull, 102 Killespickerrill, Muckaim, 99, 230 Killewnane, Kintyre, 89 KilUemacuddican, Wigtownshire, 100 Killigiay, Tobar-na-h'-Annait, in, 344 Killin, Loch Tay, 80 ; Dewar - na- Maynes Croft, in, 336 ; Fingal's Grave, at, 80 Killinallin, Islay, 1 16 Killintag, in Morven, 88, 100 KilUpheder, North Uist, 86 Killoran, Colonsay, 106 Killstay, Kirkmaiden, in Killylour, Irongray, 116 Killynaig, Coll, 102 Kilmachalmaig, Bute, 109 Kilmachalmag, Sutherlandshire, 109 Kilmachumag, near Crinan, 102 Kilmadock, Perthshire, 114; Annat, in, 347 ; Deanslundie, in, 230 Kilmaglas, Strachur, 396 Kilmaglass, Argyllshire, 107 Kilmahew, Dumbartonshire, 91 Kilmahog, near Callander, in Kilmahumaig, at Loch Gair, 102 Kilmahunaig, near Crinan, 102 Kilmaichlie, Chapelton of, on the Spey, 109 Kilmakcorme, and variants, 103 Kilmalcolm, Aberdeenshire, 88 ; Ren- frewshire, 88 Kilmalew, Inverary, 113 Kilraalisaig, North Knapdale, no Kilmallie, Lochaber, 113; Sutherland- shire, 113 Kilmaluag, barony of, Renfrewshire, 98 Kilmany, Fifeshire, 113 Kilmarie, Skye, 119 Kilmarnock, in Ayrshire, 106 ; St Ronan's Church, in, 66 ; in Argyll- shire, 106 Kilmaron, Fifeshire, 107 Kilmaronock, Dumbartonshire, 106 Kilmaronog, Argyllshire, 106 Kilmartin, Argyll, Clerkis Aiker, in, 334 ; in the Black Isle, 108 ; in Skye and Argyll, 109 Kilmashenaghan, 102 Kilmaurs, Ayrshire, in Kilmaveonaig, Blair AthoU, 89 Kilmelfort, 78 Kilmeny, Islay, 113 Kilmichael, in Bute, 85 ; Michael's Grave at, 406 ; in Arran, 85 ; in Inverness-shire, 85 Kilminning, Fifeshire, 75, 113 Kilminster, in Wick, 265 Kilmodan, Argyllshire, 106 Kilmoir, near Brechin Cathedral, 198 Kilmolrow, Islay, 119 Kilmolruy, Skye, 119 Kilmoluag, in Tiree, 8 Kilmonivaig parish, Inverness-shire, 99 Kilmoiack, Invemess-shire, in Kilmore, Mull, 198 ; Skye, 198 Kilmorich, Lochgoilhead, in Kilmorick, Mains of, Dowally, in Kilmorie, ancient name of Craignish, 197; or Stralachlane, 119, 198 Kilmorie Knap, Argyll, 196 Kilmory, and variants of, 195 Kilmory, Argyllshire, 76 Kilmory Chapel, Wigtownshire, 197 Kilmory of Oib, 196 Kilmuir, in Skye, 200 ; in Uist, 200 Kilmuir-Easter, 200 ; Priest's Hill, at, 339 Kilmun, 306 ; in Cowall, lands of, 99 ; an estate in Inverary, 99 444 INDEX. Kilmurdah, Argyll, 103 Kilmurray, in Ireland, 195 Kil - nam - brathairn-kill, Lochgoilhead, III Kilnave, Islay, 82 ICilninian, Mull, 108, 196 Kilninver, Lorn, 78 Kilpatrick, in Mull and Arran, 91 ; parish of, 90 Kilpeter, Renfrewshire, 85 ; South Uist, 86 Kilphedder, Sutherlandshire, 85 Kilquhonell, in Carrick, J 10 Kilrenny, Fifeshire, no Kilrimont, crosses at, 176 Kilrule, 120 Kils, in Skye and Mull, unidentified, III Kilspindie, Annat, in, 347 ; Balnakeilly, in, 81 ; in the Carse of Gowrie, 107 ; East Lothian, 107 Kilsyth, Balmoloch, near, 396 Kiltarlity, 102 Kiltearn, Ross-shire, 84 ; St Monan's Chaplainry, at, 25 Kiltrinidad, North Uist, 84 Kilvary, Argyllshire, 119 Kilvaxter, Skye, ill Kilvean, an estate near Inverness, 100 Kilvicenen, Mull, 103 ; Ulva, 103 Kilvick O'Charmaig, Knapdale, 102 Kilvickeon, 196 Kilwinning, Ayrshire, 138, 301 ; Lady Acre, in, 204, 339 Kilwinning, Abbey of, 257, 258 Kinblethmont, Annatstoun, in, 348 ; Templar lands, at, 360 Kincardineshire, St Cyrus parish, in, 20 Kincladye, David RoUok of, 334 Kinclaven, Vicar's-Acre, at, 334 King Cay's Cross, Linlithgow, 181 King David, 228 King Kenneth, 228 King Oswald, 299 Kingarth, in Bute, 229 Kinghorn, Abden, near, 241 ; Ruid- Aiker, near, 332 Kinglassie, Fife, 396 King's College, Aberdeen, 193 King's Cross, Arran, 185 King's Crossbill, Rutherglen, 185 Kingskettle, Balmalcolm, in, 396 Kingussie, burying-ground of St Col- umba at, 9 Kinkell, cave with crosses at, 52 ; occurrences of the name, 77 ; seven dependent churches of, 77 ; St Bean's Chapel, at, 138 Kinlochewe, 304 Kinloss Abbey, Elginshire, 266 Kinneff, the Temple, in, 356 Kinneil lands given to St Catherine's Hospital, 20 Kinross, Croftmartin, at, 341 Kintail, Kilduick, in, 117 Kintore, Anatiscruik, in, 348 Kintradwell, Sutherlandshire, 304 Kintyre, Balnakill, in, 81 ; Crossaig, in, 174 ; Crossapeill, in, 181 ; Kerran Water, in, 310 ; Kilchenzie, in, 90 ; Kilchiaran, in, 93 ; Kildavie, in, 114; Killewnane, in, 89 ; Lady Mary's Well, in, 19s ; re - arrangement of ancient parishes in, 277 ; dedications to St Senan in, 102 Kippen, Arnprior, in, 237 Kircalla, Wigtownshire, 142 Kirk, rivulet called the, Renfrewshire, 124 Kirk Manghold, Isle of Man, 109 Kirk of Moss, Wick, 266 Kirk of Our Lady, Orkney, 201 Kirk of St Mungo, Mid-Lothian, 123 Kirk Yetholm, 127 Kirkabister, 390 Kirkandrews-on-Eden, 135 Kirkandrews, Kirkcudbrightshire, 135 KirkapoU Bay, St Oran's burying-ground at, 9 Kirkbank, Roxburghshire, 123 Kirkbean, Kirkcudbrightshire, 138 Kirkborthwick, Selkirkshire, 127 Kirkbuddo, Forfarshire, 149, 388 Kirkburn, the, Peeblesshire, 124 Kirkcairns, Aberdeenshire, 124 Kirkcaldy, 124 ; St Brycedale, at, 138 Kirkchrist, Kirkcudbrightshire, 132 ; Kirkcudbrightshire, Templeland, at, 35 1 ; Twynholm, Nunnery of, 249 ; in Wigtownshire, 132 Kirk-Christis-Chapell-Croft, Old Luce, 329 Kirkcolm, Wigtownshire, 3, 135 ; Cross- well, in, 172 ; Kermanachan, in, 334 ; Lady Bay, in, 205 ; Lady Rue, in, 205 ; Oure-Lady's-Chapel-Croft, in, 329 Kirkconnel, in Dumfriesshire and the Stewartry, 146 ; Fair Helen of, 147 Kirkconnell, farm and moor, Kirk- cudbrightshire, 147 Kirkconnell Hall, Dumfriesshire, 147 Kirkcormac, Kirkcudbrightshire, 102, J 35 Kirkcowan, Wigtownshire, 143 ; Bar- lenan, in, 320 Kirk - croft, in Kivkpatrick - Fleming, 329 ; in Tibbermuir, 329 Kirkcudbright, farm, Dumfriesshire, 140 Kirkcudbrlght-Innertig, Ayrshire, 140 Kirkcudbrightshire, BaJnacross, in, 182 ; Bootle, in, 139 ; Corsecraig, in, 168 ; INDEX. 445 Hillfort, on Loch Roan, 130 ; Kirk- andrews, in, 135 ; Kirkbean, in, 138 ; Kirkcormack, in, 135 ; Kirkdale, in, 123 ; Penkiln Bum, 81 Kiikdale, Kirkcudbrightshire, 123 Kirkdean, Peeblesshire, 125 Kirkden, anciently Idvies, Forfarshire, 125 Kirkdominie, Ayrshure, 144 ; Fair of, 144 Kirk Door Keys, land called, 126 Kirkdrain, Wigtownshire, 143 Kirkdryne, Wigtownshire, 143 Kirkennan, now Buittle, 139 Kirkfield, Renfrewshire, 123 Kirkforthar, Fifeshire, 128 Kirkgill, in Crawford, 123 Kirkgunzeon, Arnmannoch, in, 240 Kirkhall, Peeblesshire, 126 Kirkheogh, St Andrews, 123 Kirkhill, 122 ; in Aberdeenshire, 123 ; old name of Belmont Estate, 122 ; parish of, Invemess-shire, 123, 199; on the Lossie, 16 ; in Mid-Lothian, 122, 123 Kirkhill and Kirk Burn, Lanarkshire, 123 Kirkhill Castle, Ayrshire, 123 Kirkhill House, 123 Kirkhill mansion, Linlithgowshire, 123 Kirkhobble, in Penninghame, 160 Kirkholm, Kermanachan, in, 240 ; Kirk- cudbrightshire, 124 ; Portencalzie, in, 240; Shetland, 124 Kirkhope, Selkirkshire, 127 Kirkiboll, Sutherlandshire, 286 Kirkidale, South Uist, 123 Kirkinner, Annat Hill, in, 347 ; Wig- townshire, 143 ; Kirminnoch, in, 240 Kirkinvagr, 129 Kirkland in Fife, Lanark, and Kirk- cudbrightshire, 122 Kirkland Moat, near Dumfries, 122 Kirklandhill, Ayrshire, 122 Kirklands of Cavers, 122 Kirklane, Kirkcudbrightshire, 123 Kirklaw, 122 Kirkleish, Wigtownshire, 142 Kirkliston, Mid-Lothian, 127 Kirk-Loch, Dumfriesshire, 124 Kirkmabreck, 123, 137, 138 ; Mul- taggart, in, 285 ; Spittal, in, 370 Kirkmadrine, Wigtownshire, 142 Kirkmahoe, Dumfriesshire, 144 ; Lady's Meadow, in, 205 Kirkmaiden, 142; Chapel Rossan,. in, l6o ; Chapel in St Medan's Cave, in, 47; Killstay, in, III ; Kirkleish, in, 142 ; Lady Croft, in, 339 ; Maryport, in, 206 Kirkmaiden-in-Fames, 142 Kirkmaiden-in-Ryndis, 142 Kirkmartin, in the Black Isle, 152 Kirkmichael, near Dumbarton, 134 ; Dumfriesshire, Kirklandhill, in, 122 Kirkmichael, tradition regarding the Priest's Stone in, 287 Kirkmichael farm, in Row, 134 Kirkmichaels, i Kirkminnoch, Kirkmanachan, Wig- townshire, 240 Kirkmirran, Kirkcudbrightshire, 139 Kirkmuirhill, Lanarkshire, 128 Kirkness, Shetland, 124 Kirknewton, Mid- Lothian, 130 Kirknow, 122 Kirk-o'-Muir, Stirlingshire, 128; Priest's Croft, near, 334 Kirkoswald, Ayrshire, 144 ; Fair of, 146 Kirkpark, Berwickshire, 126 Kirkpatrick, i Kirkpatrick- Fleming, Kirkcroft, in, 329 Kirkpatricks in Galloway, 136 Kirkpottie, at Glenfarg, 148 Kirkrow, in Hownam parish, 127 Kirks named in the Danelagh, I2I ; frequency in Isle of Man of, 122 Kirks of Eskdale, the Five, 1 26 Kirkshade, in Brechin, 126 ; in Forfar- shire, 125 Kirksheaf, near Tain, 125 Kirkside, Kincardineshire, 123 Kirkskeith, lands of, near Avoch, 125 Kirkstead, Yarrow, 126 Kirkstyle Muir, Lanarkshire, 125 Kirkstyle, in Roxburghshire, 125 ; in Ruthwell, 125 Kirkton Glen, Campsie, 69 Kirkton and Kirton, 390 Kirkton parish, Teviotdale, 390 Kirktown of Bothans, 32 Kirktown, St Ninians, Stirlingshire, 30 Kirkurd, Kirkdean, in, 125 Kirkwall, Orkney, I, 128 ; and St Ola, parishes of, 21 ; variants of the name, 129 Kirk wood, 126 Kirkwoodheid, 126 Kirriemuir, or Kellamuir, 199 Kissoktoun, Senwick, 396 Knightridge, Torphichen, 374 Knights of St John, 190; chapel of, 125 ; of Jerusalem, the, 2 Knights Templars, 208, 330 ; chapel of the, 161 Knockando, Elginshire, 29 Knockbain, Balmaduthie, in, 395 ; James's-Temple, in, 363 Knock Fergan, Banffshire, 319 Knock Mirren, Coylton, 319 Knockcrosh, Kirkcudbrightshire, 168 446 INDEX. Knockan-he-glish, Stirlingshire, 66 Knockernan, Kirkcowan, 319 Knockespock, Clatt, 225 Knockie Fountain, Old Luce, 319 Knocklearoch, Islay, 284 Knockmanister, Ayrshire, 239 Knockmilauk, 319 Knockmulreesh, Islay, 319 Knocknaheglaish, Stirlingshire, 79 Knocktaggart, Kirkmabreck, 285 Knoc-na-Eaglais, at Cultalich, 66 Knoll of the Bell, 94, 300 Knoll of the Church, 122 Knolls, Sir William, 356 Kylemagage, lands of, near Loch Leven, 112 Kylmalduff, Inveraray, 112 Kyninmunde, Matthew, 382 Lacknacor, Columba's Stone, at, 414 Ladeisfurde, Aberdeenshire, 202 Ladies' Quarter, Berwickshire, 201 Ladoc, or Landoc, Cornwall, 1 14 Lady Aboyne, and Chapel of Grace, 155 Lady Acre, Ayrshire, 204 ; Inchinnan, 339 ; Kilwinning, 339 ; Lanark, 339 ; Renfrewshire, 203 Lady Acre Road, at Lanark, 203 Lady Bay, Wigtownshire, 205 Lady Burn, Cupar, 310 Lady Corse, at Maybole, 187 Lady Craig, St Andrews, 203 Lady Croft, at Aberdeen, 339 ; at Kirk- maiden, 339 ; near Stirling, 339 Lady Glen, Dailly, 204 Lady Hill, Cave, and Rue, Kirkcolm, 205 Lady Hill, Elginshire, 202 ; Ross-shire, 202 Lady Isle, Prestwick, 204 Lady Mary's Well, Kintyre, 195 Lady Orchard, Cupar, 203 "Lady Tree," the, at Ecclesmonichty, 71 Lady Well, 194 ; in Old Meldrum, 159 Lady Wynd, Cupar, 310 Ladybanks, Chapel to the Virgin, at, 203 Ladyburn, near Paisley Abbey, 205 Lady-cros-myre, Lochmaben, 204 Ladyfield, Perthshire, 203 Ladyhall, Cunynghame, 204 Ladyheidrig, Pittenweeni, 204 Ladyhill and Ladywell, Banffshire, 202 Ladykirk, in Berwickshire, 201 ; in Orkney, 201 Ladyknowe, Dumfriesshire, 202 Ladyland, the House of, 204 Ladyland and Ladylands, 204 Ladyloan, Forfarshire, 203 Ladymuir, Kilmalcolm, 204 Ladypark, Lauderdale, 204 Lady's Bed, Isle of May, 50 Lady's Bridge and Ladysford, Banff- shire, 202 Lady's Causeway, Aberdeenshire, 202 Lady's Meadow, Dumfriesshire, 205 Lady's Rock, near Lismore, 205 Lady's Steps, near Dunlop, 204 Lady's Well, Aboyne, 359 Ladyton, Prestwick, 204 Ladyurd and Netherurd, 125 Ladywell, an estate in Berwickshire, 195 Ladywell Acre, near Elgin, 339 Lady-yard, Tarbolton, 204 Laggan, Inverness-shire, 325 Lagganallachy, 325 Laggangarn, standing stones of, 402 Lagan-t'-Seapail, 325 Lairdmannoch, Tongland, 248 Laisren, or Molaissi, St, 142 Lake of Menteith, 298 Lamlash Bay, Holy Island, in, 47 Lamp Acre, Corstorphine, 335 Lanark, chapel of St Nicolas at, 203 ; Crosslaw, in, 167; Lady Acre, in, 339 ; St Leonard's Hospital, near, 44 Lanarkshire, Carmunnock, in, 239 ; Libberton, in, 382 ; Monkland, in, 269 ; district of St Catherine's, in, 20 Landis, at Sweetheart Abbey, 64 Lane-mannoch, Kells, Kirkcudbright- shire, 240 Lanfine, Galston, 64 Lan-fortin, Perthshire, 64 Langbed-holm, near Moffat, 64 Langley, in Buchan, parish of, 28 Langmom, Elgin, 64 Lann in Irish names, 62 ; in Isle of Man, 61 ; and Eccles, 61 Lann Bedleim, 64 Lann Elo, Colman, Abbot of, 31 Lann Medainn, 64 Larbert Chapel, 65 Larbert, Chapel-Bum, in, 163 Largs, battle of, 232, 389 Larites, the Holy Hermit of, 54 Lathrisk, ancient name of Kettle, in Fife, 63 Lauder, Over and Nether Spital, in, 369 I-auderdale, Canons-croft, in, 334 Laurence, St, 283 ; date of dedication of church of, 149 ; fair of, at Old Rayne, 5 Laurencekirk, 5; Chapel Knap, in, 160 Laurence Road, Culsalmond, 5 Laurin Moor, I^urencekirk, 5 ; fair on, ISO Lauriston, in Falkirk, 393 ; in St Cyrus, 393 Lawrence Hill, 318 INDEX. 447 Lawrence, St, 262, 389 Ijazarus, Knights of the Order of St, 374. 381 Leac-mo-Cheode, 390 Leamokevoge, 30 Leffincle^ry, South Ayrshire, 284 Legerwood, hospital at, 369 Leiche, Patrick, Chancellor of Diocese of Glasgow, 70 Leighton, Bishop, 229 Leinster, church founded by Cumine the Fair at, 38 Leith, port of, 308 Lennox, religious house dedicated to the Virgin by the Earls of, 77, 78 Leochel-Cushnie, Chapel Croft in, 329 Leonard, St, 368 ; college and parish of, 17 Leonard's Ley, Perth, 377 Leper Hospital at Glasgow, 383 ; at Greenside, Edinburgh, 382 ; in Rath- ven, 382 ; at Uthrogal, 383 Leper-hospitals, 381 Lepers kept apart on Papa Stour, 381 Les Mackute, 72 Leslie, Aberdeenshire, Chapelton, in, 157; Ringin' Stane, cup-marked, at, 407 Lesmahagow, 72 ; Abbey - green, at, 246 ; Broken Cross Muir, in, 171; Crossford, in, 174 ; Kirkfield, in, 123 ; Kirkmuirhill, in, 128 ; Monks' Stables, at, 246 ; Prior-hill, at, 334 Lestalrig, Restalrig, near Edinburgh, 304 Lewis, Ballantrushal, in, 402 ; Balna- kiel, in the, 81 ; Crossbost, in, 182 ; Mangarista, in, 238 ; Teampull Phea- dair, in, 362 ; Temple Rona, 2 than Morgan, Elgin, 64 Lhanbryd parish, in Elginshire, 16 Liathmor, 30 Libberton, Lanarkshire, 382 Liberton, Edinburgh, 382 ; Vicar's- Acres, at, 334 Liddesdale, the Knight of, 56 ; Priest- hengh, in, 281 Limoges, monastery at, 17 Lincluden, Benedictine Nunnery at, 253 ; Nunland, near, 254 Lincluden Collie, 67 Lincnan, in the Tarff, Wigtownshire, U3 Lindisfame, church built by Bishop Finnan on the Isle of, 60 Lindores, Abbey of, 244 ; Mariecroft, near, 340 ; monastery of, 242 Lindsay of Kirkforthar, 128 Linlithgow, 279; Crossflats, at, 171; Crosswell, at, 172 ; Curate's Acre, *'i 334; Friar's Well and Friar's Brae, at, 257; Hospital of St Lararus, at, 381 ; King Cay's Cross, at, l8l ; Pilgrim Hill, at, 331, 374; Prior's Croft, near, 333 ; Sanctuary- Crofts, at, 330; Spittal - croft, at, 331. 374; St John's Acre, at, 339; St Mary Magdalene's Fair at, 374 ; St Michael's, at, 133 Linncrosh, Kirkcudbrightshire, 172 Linne-a-Fhiachre, 311 Linton, Haddingtonshire, 128 ; Rox- burghshire, Prior Row and Priory- Meadow, in, 252 Lismore, 230 ; Neamha, bishop of, 27 ; St Moloc's Seat or Cairn in, 416 ; St Moluag, of, 98 Listen, an Essex parish, 127 Lithbert and Dunipace, chapels of, 65 Little Cumbrae, St Beya's Chapel, on the, III Little Kilmory, Bute, 196 Livingstones, hereditary keepers of the Bachul More, 98 Llan, Welsh place-names formed with, 62 Llanerch, origin of Lanark, 63 Llanfechan, Wales, 69 Llanmadoc, Glamorganshire, 114 Loccard, Simon, 274 Loch Assynt, Auchnahiglash, near, 67 Awe, Annat, on, 346 ; Eilean-'n-ta- gart, on, 286 ; Inis Chonain, on, 300 Bioom, Cladh-na-h'-Anaid, near, 347 Caolisport, Cave-Chapel, at, 45 Chriest, 84 Columkille, Skye, 238, 305 Connell, 301 Duic, Ross-shire, 306 Eil, Anat, on, 346 Fad, in Bute, Baileachaibil, on, 393 Fergus, near Kirkcudbright, 302 Finl^an, 305 Gair, Kilmahumaig, at, 102 Gruinard, 82 Kilbride, 301 Killin, Ross-shire, 80 Kinnord, Macbricha's Cross, on, 187 Leven, lands of Kylemagage, 1 12 Lomond, Inch-ta-Vannoch and Inch Gailleach, on, 239 ; three islands in, 299 ; modern hermitage on island in, 58 ; the Templar's Grave, on, 357 Maree, Ross-shire, 119; Well of St Maelrubha, in, 295 Melfort, Parson's Lake, at, 275 Muire, 199 448 INDEX. Nell, Cleidh - na • H' • Annait, on, 348 Patrick, 301 Roan, hill-fort on, Kirkcudbright- shire, 130 Ryan, the Virgin's Well, near, 197 Scridain, 91 Sianta, Skye, 305 Swin, Elian More, 199 Tarbert, Yl-na-heglish, in, 67 Tay, Croftmartaig, near, 341 Whinyeon, 301 Loch of Lindores, Priest's-Burn, at, 282 Lochaher, Kilmallie, in, 113 Loch-a-Chuilinn, Ross-shire, 80 Lochalsh, Killellan, in, 116 Lochan-a-Mhanaich, lona, 237 Loch-an-tagart, Applecross, 286 Lochearnfoot, St Fillans, at, 116 Locherwart, Sir William play of, 32 Lochgoilhead, Kilmorich, in, III Lochmaben, Kirk-Loch, in, 124 Loch-nan-Ceall, in Mull, 77, 306 Lochquhoreschire, Barony of, 166 Lochs associated with the names of saints, 301 Lochs parish, Kilbaghead, in, 112 Lochwinnoch, 301 ; Dun Connel, in, 146 Loffold, Windsor Forest, 56 Logan, Robert, of Restalrig, 57 Logiebride, Perthshire, 325 Logie-Mar, St Wallach's Stone, in, 406 Logierait, 324 Lolan, St, 337 ; the bell of, 337 Long, as a prefix, 64 Long Maidens, Wigtownshire, 64 Longannat, Tulliallan, 347 Longforgan, 64 ; Balbunnoch, in, 397 Loretto, Chapel of Our Lady at, 208 ; Hermitage, at, 54 Lorn, Kilbride and Kilmore, in, 92, 198 Lornie, near Errol, 55 Lothian, Hospitals in, 373, 374 Loudon, Temple House, in, 360 Lovell, James, of Ballumbie, 71 Luac, St, of Lismore, 28 Luffness, Carmelites at, 330 Lugaidh, St, 98 Lumphanan, Aberdeenshire, 64, 1 15 Lumphinnans, Fife, 64 Luncarty and Redgorton, parishes of, 21 Lundy, Edward Gray, rector of, 208 Lupus, St, of Troyes, 19 Lyndsay, lines upon the shrine of St Germain by, 19 Macallan, Elginshire, 29 Macbricha's Cross, on Loch Kinnord, Maccaille, St, disciple of St Patrick, 85 Macceus, or Mahew, St, 91, 144 Macdonalds and MacLeans, clan fight between, 82 Macduff Cross, 189 MacGidrin, or Magidran, St, 72 MacGilladuflF, president of the desert in lona, 38 Machaire-cill, Ayrshire, 79 Machalus, or Maccald, St, 108 Machan, or Manchan, St, 69, 401 Machar, Aberdeenshire, 27 Machar, St, 323, 325 ; sent to Pictavia by Columba, 28 Macharioch House, chapel near, 94 Macarius, or Machar, St, 78 Machlenia, 188 Machry-kill, Ayrshire, 78 Machutus, St, 72, 190 Mackenzies of Ord, 83 Macker's Haugh, Kildrummy, 323 Mackessog, St, 66 MacLean of Ballygrant, 285 MacLean, Lachlan, of Duart, 205 Maculin of Lusk, Irish form of St Colin, 29 Madderty, Perthshire, St Davids, in, 25 Madianus, St, 21 Madoc, or Modoc, St, otherwise Adrian, 114 Maelrubha, St, 6, 118, 191, 197, 256, 29s ; bulls sacrificed to, 140 Maes-y-Garmon, North Wales, 19 Magdalen Green, Dundee, 8, 324 Magdalene, Cross of Saint, 187 Magdalene Hill, near Perth, 316, 377 Magdalene or Madie, St, 70 Maghbile, monastery of, 115 Magnus of Orkney, Earl, 307 Magnus, St, 128, 232 ; church of, 381 ; murder of, 68 Mahew, St, 396 Maiden Kirk, Deuchar, the, 207 Maidenkirk, Wigtownshire, 142 Maidens, Chapel to the Nine, 158 Maidens of Ogilvy Den, the Nine, 321, 408 "Maiden Way," 126 Maidlin Chapel, near Brechin, 158 Maison Dieu, High Street, Edinbui^h, 37S ; Jedburgh, 367 ; Roxburgh, 367 Maison Dieu Acres, Jedburgh, 331 Maison Dieu preceptory, at Elgin, 379 Malcolm Canmore, 2, 190 Malcolm H., 30 Malcolm IV., 255, 263, 283, 366 INDEX. 449 Malcolm and Margaret, first meeting of, 306 Malcolm the Maiden, Dyserth in con- nection with, 42 Maldgraym, at Arbroath, 188 Malduff, 113 Malines, 188 Maling, or Moling, an Irish saint, 70 Malmesbury, Wiltshire, 113 Maltan WaJls, Ancrum, 36S Maluag, St, of Lismore, 342 Malvoisin, William, Bishop of St Andrews, 269 Mai]garista, Lewis, 238 Mangaster, Shetland, 238 Manor, Temple House, in, 360 Manuel Jmiction, 255 Maol nam Manach, lona, 237 Maol-rise, St, 319 Margaret, grand-niece of Edward the Confessor, 306 ; Queen of Malcolm Canmore, 2, 273 ; queen, and saint, 179, 251, 274 ; commemorated at Forfer, 297 ; figure in Bonn Cathedral al, 180 n. Margaret of Norway, 231 Marie Crux, Cupar-Fife, 206 Marie-Acre, Methven, 339 Mariecrofk, near Lindores, 340 Mariolatry, 193 Marischal Collie, Aberdeen, 259 Mariscrag, near Lindores, 206 MariscFoft, at Ardmannach, 340; at Fonlis, Stratheam, 339 Marisfeild, Marisland, &c., in charters, 206 Marjory, Countess of Buchan, 261 Market-cross of Rutheiglen, 185 Market-crosses, importance of, 183 Markinch, Balbimie, in, 395 ; Kirk- ibrtfaar, in, 128 Marldnch Hill, Fifeshire, Stobb Cross, on, 166 Maman, St, 29 Mamoch, Banffshire, 29 ; parish church of, 403 ; St Maman's Chair, in, 409 Mamock, or Memock, St, 106, 323 Mar's Work, Stirling, 314 Martha, St, 254 Martin D^sil, stones in Eigg, called, 416 Martin, St, Bishop of Tours, 18, 152, 235, 324, 396, 408 ; cross of, at lona, 236; Callicadden Church dedicated to, 19 ; dedications in Scotland to, 18 ; patron of Ecclesmartine, 70 Martin's Stone, Strathmartin, 407 Martyrs' Knowe, St Andrews, 52 Maiy, places called after the Virgin, under her own name of, 205-208 Mary Magdalene, St, 324 ; Church of, 124 ; Hospital of, in Maxton, 367 Mary and Andrew, Lindores Abbey dedicated to Saints, 244 Mary and Modwena, saints, patrons of Burton-on-Trent, 48 Mary of Gueldres, 330, 367, 383 Mary of Guise, 126 Mary of the Gael, 91 Mary, Queen of Scots, 342 Mary Well, Elginshire, 202 Mar)'culter parish, 6, 208 ; Templars' Church, at, 358 Marydykes, Fyvie, 206 Maryholmand Mary field, Kirkcudbright - sWre, 205 Matjkirk, Kincardineshire, 207 ; and Ladykirk, 133 Marynett, in the North Esk, 207 Maryport, Wigtownshire, 206 Mary's Cleugh, Dumfriesshire, 206 Mary's Well, Ross-shire, offerings made at, 199 Mary, St, church at Old Munros' of, 241 ; colleges of, at Old Aberdeen and St Andrews, 193 ; church of, at Maybole, 204 ; abbey of, at Cambns- kenneth, 314 ; patron of the Temp- lars, 6 Maryton, Forfarshire, 42, 207 Marywell, Forfershire, 195 Maserfield, St Oswald slain at, 145 Mathurin, St, 366 Mathurinus, St, 143 Mauchline, Crosshands, near, 191 ; Kirk of the Muir, in, 128 ; Skeoch HUl, in, 26 Manghold, St, 109 MauldsUe, Forest of, 126 Maura and Beya, saints and virgins, III Mauritius, or Machar, St, 27, 401 ; Abbot of Inchaffiray, 264 Maxton, St Mary Magdalene Hospital in, 367 Maybole, collegiate church of St Mary at, 204 ; Kilchenzie Castle, in, 90 ; Ktrklandhill, in, 122; Lady Corse, at, 187 ; Monkland, in, 252 Mazota, or Mayot, St, 321 Mecdl in place-names, 285 Meams, Conveth, in the, 149 Meams parish, Renfrewshire, the Kirk rivulet in, 124 Medan, St, 143 Medana, St, 64, 142 Medran, St, 143 Megginch, St Martin's Acre, 341 Meikle Methlick, Chrystyis Croft, at, 332 Melansay, or Holy Island, 47 2 F 450 INDEX. Melc, a stream in Dumfriesshire, 31 Melferth, 78 Melginche, Errol, 18 Melrose, 240, 243, 266 ; Corse Rig, near, 170; founding of Abbey of St Mary at, 251 Melrose Abbey, 274 ; local names con- nected with, 252 ; pasture-lands be- longing to, 252 Melville, John, of Dysart, 42 Menimis, St, 158 Menmuir, Forfarshire, Chapel of St Mary, in, 158 Menteith, Hermit's Croft, in, 55, 335 Menzies, Appin of the, 241 Menzies of Pitfodels, 208 Menzies, Sir Robert, 44 Menzies, St David, 44 Merchard, St, 322, 404 ; bell of, 404 Merchiston (Rev. Dr), destruction of image of St Fergus by, 28 Mercia, Penda, king of, 145 Merinach, St, 397 Merinus, St, 139, 299 Methlick, Annit, or Andat, in, 346 Methven, Marie- Acre, in, 339 ; or Meflfen, Perthshire, 23 ; parish church of, 277 Methven, St, in Fowlis-Wester, 23 Michael, building of the ship named, 308 Michael, St, the Archangel, 182, 262, 313, 323; dedications to, 84; effigy of, at Dallas, 133 ; parishes named after, 133 Michael's Grave, Kilmichel, Bute, 406 Mid-Calder, Corswode, in, 171 Mid-Lothian, Balantrodach, in, 352 ; Corscrag, in, 168 ; Corshope, in, 169; Corstorphine, in, 168; Crossall (Cross- hill), in, 165 ; Crosshouses, in, 170 ; Glencorse, in, 169 ; Kirkhill, in, 122, 123 ; Kirkliston, in, 127 ; Kirknew- ton, in, 130 Midmar, dedicated to Nidan, 64 Migvie, Pettentagart, in, 286 Milburga, St, 243, 300 Milmannock, Ayrshire, 239 Milnab, Crieff, 264 Miniar, or Niniar, St, 311 Minnigaff, Linncrosh, in, 172 Mirinus, St, 239 Mirren, St, 243 Moan, or Moach, St, 308 Moat Brae, near Dumfries, 122 Mobilac, near Limoges, 17 Mochrum, Chipperfinian, in, 156 ; Clachanarrie, in, 405 Mocumma, one of the names of St Machar, 27 Modan, St, 106 ; church on Loch Etive, of, 394 ; probably a contemporary of St Ronan, 26 Modwena, St, 48 Moelblatha, a stone in lona, 415 Moffat, Corsley Burn, near, 171 ; Lady- knowe, near, 202 Moinenn, St, Bishop of Clonfert, 24 Molay, Jacques de, 355 Mold, North 'Wales, scene of a Pictish battle, 19 Moling, St, 113 Molios, St, 289 MoUenaclerich, Balfron, 284 Moluag, St, 8, 161, 200, 230, 319, 396, 412; the Bachall-nior of, 11 ; stone of St, 406 Mo-Luog, St, 97 Monachus, or Monk, St, 240 Monan, or Monyn, St, 113 Monasteries, 199, 256, 258 ; of Scone, 261 ; titles given to Carthusian, 324 Monastery, Carmelite, in Bervie, 256 ; Celtic, described, 236 ; Franciscan, at Elgin, 257 Monasticism, the begirmmgs of, 234 Monecht, Aberdeenshire, 262 Monenna, St, or Medan, 48, 304 Monennius, Irish form of Ninian, 25 Monifieth, 241 ; Chapel Dockie, in, 156 ; St Bride's Ring, in, 416 Monk Mire and Monk Cally, Coupar- Angus, 263 Monk Tower, Perth, 245 Monkegie, Aberdeenshire, 245 ; Monks' Hill, in, 245 ; Spital, in, 380 Monkland, in Lanarkshire, 269 ; at Maybole, 252 ; or Rerwick, parish, 248 Monklaw, Jedburgh, 247 Monk's Acre, Panmure, 335 Monks'-bum, -haugh, and -ridge. Pent- land Hills, 269 Monk's Croft, Crail, 335 ; Stratheam, 335 Monks'-gate, Bara, 272 Monks' Hill, Aberdeenshire, 245 Monk's Lothian, 269 Monks' Stables, Lesmahagow, 246 Monks' Tower and Croft, at Hassen- dean, 252, 334 Monk's Well, at Melrose, 252 ; at New- battle, 269 ; at Newburgh, 245 Monkscroft, near Auchterarder, 240 Monksford, Melrose, 252 Monkstown and Monksmoss, in Col- lessie, 245 Monkton, Ayrshire, i Monkton (Little), and Monkton Hall, at Musselburgh, 257 Monkton and Prestwick, 243 Monkton, or Rerwick, parish, 248 INDEX. 451 Monktown, Paisley, 243 Monkwood, an estate, 244 Monomore, Croftnamaish, in, 336 Montpellier, 18 Montrose, Annat, near, 348 ; Black Friars' convent, at, 207 ; Croft of St John, at, 339 ; hospital at, 378 Monymusk, Duncan Forbes of, 261 Monzievaird parish, St Serf patron saint of, 22 M6r, daughter of Feidhlimidh, 31 Moray, Gilbert, Archdeacon of, 226 ; St Gervadius in, 45 Morham, Thomas de, 272 Moroc, Abbot of Dunkeld, ill Mortlach, Balvanie, in, 138 Morton, James, Earl of, 254 Morven, Killintag, in, 100 Morville, Hugo de, 250 Moshenoc, St, 102 Mote Hill of Scone, Church Assembly at, S3 Mother Water, Whithorn, 195 Motherwell, Lanarkshire, 195 Mound of the Church, the, 66 Mow, Temple Acre, in, 330, 360 Moy, Dalarassie, in, 324 Muchricha's Chair, Aboyne, 410 Muckaim, Argyllshire, 230 ; Kilma- ronog, in, 106 ; Kilvary, in, 119 Muckross, Fife, 16 Mugdrum Cross, 189 Mugstot, Skye, 238 MuitUir, 236 Muiravonside, Emmanuel Priory, in, 255 Muirkirk, Ayrshire, 128, 281 Mulan an-'t-sagairt, Buchanan, 285 Mull, Achadh - na - Croise, in, 170; Columkil, in, 29 ; Crassopollie, in, 181 ; Inch Kenneth, near, 298 ; Kil- christ parish, in, 84 ; Killean, in, 86 ; Kilmore, in, 198 ; Kilninian, in, 108 ; Loch-nan-Ceall, in, 306 ; Pennycross, in, 168 ; Preacher's Bum, in, 311 ; St Mary's Lake, in, 206 ; Tobermory, in, 194 Mull of Deemess, chapel on the, 154 Multaggart, Kirkmabreck, 285 Munchu, Mungo, 32 Mund, St, Abbot of Kilmund and Dissert, 41 Mnngo, St, 395 ; dedications in Lothian and Dumfriesshire, 31 ; in Mid- Lothian, 123 ; connection with St Serf, 21 ; return from Wales to Scotland, 31 Munna, or Mund, St, 99, 292 Murdoch, or Mordouch, St, 103, 156 Muredach, St, in Mureheid, Thomas, canon of Glasgow Cathedral, 18 Muriel, St, 387 Murkle, probable site of a nunnery at, 26s Murtle, St Cuthbert's Croft, at, 341 Musselburgh, Monkton Hall, at, 257 Muthill, Deanskier, in, 230 Myra, Bishop of, 21 Na Cleirich, two monoliths called, 285 Napare, Duncan, 91 Nathalan, St, 189, 397 Nathalin's Fair, 397 Neamha, Neva, St, 27, 95^, 189 Nectan, ruler of the Picts, 16, 388 Neilston, Cross-Arthurlee, in, 183 Nennidius, 108 Nether Kirkyard, at St Cyrus, 73 Nevay and Eassie, parishes of, 27 Neville's Cross, King David IL wounded at, 25 New Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, 248 ; Annatland, in, 347 ; Sweetheart Abbey, in, 248 New Ancrum, 284 New Cumnock, Connel Burn, in, 146 New Dock, Edzell, 229 New Kilpatrick, Chapel-Couch, in, 162 ; Drumchapel, in, 160; New Kirk, in, 130 New Kirk, in Dumbartonshire, 130; in Unst, 130 New Luce, Wigtownshire, Crosswaters, in, 172 ; Kilfeather, in, 86 New Machar, 1 New Monkland, Annat Hill, in, 347 Newbattle, the Abbey of, 268, 280 Newbotle, 284 Newburgh, Abbot's Well, at, 245 ; Monks' Well, at, 245 Newhills, Aberdeenshire, Capelhills, in, JS9 . ^ Newtyle, Templeton, in, 300 Niall of the Nine Hostages, 31, 118 Nicholas, St, 278 ; Kirk of, 123 ; chapel of, at Lanark, 203 Nigg, Abbots' Walls, in, 261 Ninian, St, 346, 363, 392, 394, 415 ; founds Candida Casa, 59 ; Cave of, in Glasserton, 49; Cross of, 1875 dedications to, in central Scotland, 29 ; in south - west and north of Scotland, 163 ; connection with St Martin of Tours, 18, 235 ; Spring in Stirlingshire, 30; St Ringan's Isle, 294 ; variants of the name, 25 Ninias, St, 59, 60 Norfolk, round-towered churches in, 68 Norrie's Law, Largo, 318 Norsemen, the, 231 North Esk, fishings of Marynett, in the, 207 ; St Leonards, on the, 376 452 INDEX. North Knapdale, Kilbegie, in, 112; Kilmalisaig, in, no North Rona, primitive hermit-cells on the island of, 40; TeampuU Rona, in, 362 North Uist, Balmartin, in, 396 ; Kil- chalman, in, 109; Killipheder, in, 86 ; Kiltrinidad, in, 84 ; Unganab, in, 239 North Wales, St Germain's Plain, in, 19 Norway, Olaf, saint and king of, 21 Nunbank and Nunmoor, Fawside, 253 Nuncroft, Eccles, 335 Nunfield, Nunwood, near Lincluden, 254 Nunholme, connected with Lincluden, 254 Nunhopes, Haddington, 255 Nunland, in Foulden, 251 ; in Loch- rutton, 254 Nunmyre and Nuncrofts, Fawside, 253 Nunnery in Crawford, the, 254 ; at Lincluden, 253 Nunraw, Garvald, 255 Nuns' Hill, Inch-ma-home, 237 Nunside, near Haddington, 255 Nunton, High and Low, and Nunmill, Kirkcudbrightshire, 249 Nuntown, in Benbecula, 237 Nynias, used by Bede, for Ninian, 25 Odin, the Stone of, 403 Offerendum, Gaelic aifrionn, 1 1 Oghams, stone at St Ninian's Isle found inscribed with, 294 Ogilvie of Deskford, Sir Alexander, 280 Oirinn ^nais, 12 Ola, or Olaf, St, 21, 129, 142, 232 Old Aberdeen, 193 ; Bishop's Croft at, 333 ; St Machar's Cathedral at, 28 ; St Thomas-i-Becket's Hill, 318 Old Deer, Auchmachar, in, 323 Old Kilpatrick, Spittal, in, 372; St Patrick's stone, near, 414 Old Kirk, Cromarty, 130 Old Luce, Clauchan Well, in, 405 ; Kirkchrist, in, 132 ; Kirk-Christis- Chapell-Croft, in, 329 Old Machar, i Old Meldrum, Bothelnie, in, 397 ; Lady Well, in, 159 Old Melrose, Boisil, prior of, 34 ; Chapel-Knowe, at, 160 ; monastery at, 251 ; Sanctuaiy Way, at, 251 Old Munros, Church of St Mary, at, 241 Old Rayne, Laurence Fair, at, 5 Olrick, the Glosters, or Closters, in, 265 Oran, St, 9, 106 Oratories in Ireland, early, 61 Oratory of St Fillan, 52 Orkney, Enhallow, in, 289; Kirk of Our Lady, in, 201 ; parishes of Deer- ness and St Andrews, in, 16 ; the See of, 231 ; Sunday Island, in, 28 ; West Kirk in, 126 Orton, Elginshire, Chapel of the Virgin at, 1 57 Osbem, St, in Oswald, King of Northumbria, 144; the cross of King, 186 Ounce of the Abbot, the, 238 Ounce-land, 238 "Our Lady" and "Lady" in place- names, 201 Our Lady Kirk of Kyle, 202 Our Lady of Aberbrothock, chapel of, 203 Our Lady of Loretto, chapel of, 208 Oure-Lady-Petie-land, 201 Our Lady's Altar, 203 Our Lady's Steps, Edinburgh, 205 Oure-Ladys- Chapel -Croft, Kirkcolm, 329 Oxnam, Kirkstyle, in, 125 Oyne parish, Aberdeenshire, 27 Pabbay, in Skye, 14 Paddy, or Pa'dy, Fair, 151 " Pade Kirk in the Mearns," 151 Paible, in Harris, 14 Paisley, 239, 243 ; the Abbot's Inch, at, 243 ; Prior's-croft, at, 334 ; Chapel of St Roque, at, 18 ; Crossflat, near, 171 ; St Connallis Stane, at, 413 ; St Ninian's Cross, at, 187 Paisley Abbey, 122 ; Ladybum, near, 205 Palladius, St, 313 ; Chapel of, 150 Palmer's Cross, in Arbroath, 164 ; near Elgin, 164 Panbride, Forfarshire, 62, 227 ; Fore Boath, in, 389 Panmure, Forfershire, Croceden, in, 169 ; Monk's Acre, in, 335 Pantev, Patrick, 207 Pants, Rutherglen, 340 Papa, Norse use of the word, 14 Papa-Stour, lepers kept apart on, 381 ; Scalloway, in, 14 Papa-Westray, St Tredwell's Loch, in, 303 Papadill, in Rum, 14 Papal, in Unst, 14 Papdale, near Kirkwall, 14 Papey and Papyli, in Iceland, 14 Papil, in Yell, 14 Paplay, in South Ronaldshay, 14 Parson's Croft, Glasgow, 334 Parson's Green, near Edinburgh, 275 Parson's Lake, Loch Melfort, 275 Parson's Pool, Drumblade, 275 INDEX. 453 Parton, Ironmannach, near, 240 Patrick, fifth Earl of Dunbar, 258 Patrick, St, 109, 320, 323, 386, 396, 407 ; birthplace of, 90 ; interment of, 91 ; dedications to, 136 ; legends of, 309 Paul, the Hermit, 36 Paul's Close, Perth, 377 Paul's Well, West Linton, 370 Pavia, in Italy, 18 Payble, in North Uist, 14 Payens, Hi^h de, 352 Peebles, Crosskirk, at, 178; St Leonard's Acres, at, 338 ; St Leonard's Hospital, near, 370 ; Templeland, at, 332 Peeblesshire, Kailzie parish, in, 124 ; Kilbucho, in, 112; St Bryde's Kirk, in, 137 Penda, King of Mercia, 145 PenfiUan, Keir, 320 Penicuik, Spital, in, 375 ; formerly St Mungo's, 31 ; and the Pentlands, site of wayside cross between, 165 Penkiln, Penkill, Kirkcudbrightshire, 81 Penkiln Burn, Wigtownshire, 8l Penninghame, Glenhapples, in, 160 ; Kircalla, in, 142 ; Spittal, in, 370 Penny-cross, Mull, 168 Pennyland of the Bachall, the, 1 1 Pensandus, 107 Penshiel, East Lothian, 161 Persebus, Islay, 283 Perth, Blackfriars' Croft and Wynd, at, 258; Edward IH. in, 245 ; hospitals at, 377 ; Magdalene Hill, near, 377 ; and Methven, wayside cross between, 166 ; Monk Tower, in, 245 ; formerly called St Johnstoun, 6 ; St Leonard's Bank, at, 377 ; St Michael's Croft, near, 339 Perth, James, Earl of, 337 Perthshire, Kilmadock, in, 114; St Madoes parish, in, 21 ; St Martin's parish and Abbey, in, 19 ; Tibber- muir, in, 194 Peter, St, 248, 310, 323, 413 ; his cul- tus in Scotland, 2; church at Peter- culter, 6 ; Well, 85 ; church in Rathven of, 382 ; the Deacon, 81 ; few Scottish dedications to, 194 ; patron-saint of the Picts, 16 Peterkirk, or Drumdelgie, 133 Peterculter parish, 6 Peter's Burn, Renfrewshire, 85 Peter's Heugh, 6 Peter's Well, 6 Pettentagart, Migvie, 286 Peynabachalia, lands of, II, 99 Philip IV. of France, 354 Pictland, St Boniface, in, 21 Picts, legend of church - building and the, 130 Pigeons, the Parish of White, 89 Pilgrim Hill, Linlithgow, 331, 374 Pilgrimages, 56, 177 Pilgrim's Haven, Isle of May, 50 Pilgrims' Well, at Aberdour, Fife, 254 Piran, St, Cornish equivalent to Kieran, 47 Pitarrow, Wishart of, 150 Pitempan, 408 Pitfodels, Menzies of, 208 Pitlumbertie, 63 Pitmedden, Aberdeenshire, 26 Pit-ne-weme, 51 Pitsligo, Aberdeenshire, Ladeisfiirde, in, 202 Pittenweem, Corsheuch, in, 167 ; St Fillan's Cave, at, 51 ; St Monan's Well, at, 25 Place of the Church, the, 126 Placentia, Nunnery of St Mary of, 7 Planmichael, Glasgow, 62 Pleasance, the, at Dundee, 7 ; at Edin- burgh, 7 Pluscarden Priory, 269, 324 PoU-Cheodan, 312 Polmanuire, near Crathie, 311 Polnar Bum, 309 Polnar Chapel, Inverurie, 156, 343 Polnar, or Polander, Chapel, a farm, Aberdeenshire, 156 Polnoon, Castle of, Renfrewshire, 67 Pol-Ronan, River Earn, 22 Poltoune, St John's Croft, in, 339 Pontefract, 242 Pool of the Church, 81 Pool of the Cross, or Gallows, 172 Pope Pius II., 129 Port a Mhuilinn, lona, 236 Port of the Dead, 236 Port-a-Churaich, lona, 308 Port-an-diseart, lona, 38 Portankill, Wigtownshire, 78 Portbriar, Isle of Whithorn, 240 Portencalzie, Kirkholm, 205, 240 Portincross, Ayrshire, 174 Portkill, Portkiln, Dumbartonshire, 77 Port-na-croish, in Appin, 1 74 Port-na-Mairtear, lona, 13 Port-na-Marbh, 236 Port-na-Muintir, 236 Portpatrick, 309 ; Cairn Pat, in, 320 ; Craigencrosh, in, 168 ; Killantringan, in, 108 Preacher's Bum, Mull, 311 Precincts-yards, Abbey St Bathans, 253 Presgarth, Shetland, 283 Preston as a place-name in England, 279 454 INDEX. Preston, in Colvend, 279 ; in Cranston, 279 ; near Duns, wayside cross at, 166; in Kilbarchan, 279; parish of, Berwickshire, 279 Preston of Gorton, relic of St Giles brought to Edinburgh by, 33 Prestonfield, Duddingston, 280 Preston-Grange, East Lothian, 267 Prestonhall, Cupar-Fife, 279 Preston-Holm, Cockpen, 280 Prestonkirk, Haddingtonshire, 49, 128, 280 Preston-Mill, Kirkcudbrightshire, 280 Prestonpans, East Lothian, 279 Prestrebrig, Sprouston, 283 Prestrie and Clary Park, Whithorn, 284 Prestwick, Ayrshire, i, 278, 391 Priest, Stone of the Red, 286 Priestfield, Bowden, 280 Priest-heugh, Liddesdale, 281 Priesthill, Muirkirk, 281 Priesthope, Innerleithen, 281 Priestinch Hill, Abercorn, 281 Priestland and Priestlands, 283 Priestlaw, East Lothian, 281 Prieston, Colmonell, 279 Priest's Acres, near Stirling, 334 Priest's-Burn, Loch of Lindores, 282 Priest's Craig, Glenesk, 281 Priest's Croft, near Clackmannan, 334 ; at Dunbar, 334 ; near Kirk-o'-Muir, 334 ; at Tealing, 279 Priest's Crown, Eckford, 281 Priest's Den and Well, Cargill, 282 Priest's-field, at Cullen, 280 Priest's-Gill, Lanarkshire, 281 Priest's Hill, Kilmuir Easter, 339 Priest's-holm, Lesmahagow, 280 Priest's Meadow, Tarves, 280 Priest's Stone at Dunfallandy, the, 287 Priest's Water, Gartly, 282 Priest's Well, Caverton, 282 Priestside, Cummertrees, 282 Prior Row and Priory meadow, Rox- burghshire, 252 Prior Walls, Crail, 256 Prior-Acres, St Andrews, 334 Prioratus de Bello-loco, 270 Prior-hill, Lesmahagow, 334 Priorholm, Priorliden, Priorhill, in Canonbie, 247 Prior's Croft, Crail, 333 ; near Linlith- gow, 333 Prior's Croft and Briery Well, 256 Prior's Land, Roxburghshire, 251 Prior's Well and Monk's Well, Bal- merino, 259 Prior's-Croft, Paisley, 334 Priorswell, Melrose, 252 Priorwood, Melrose, 252 Priory of St Andrews, 279 ; of St Rufiis, at Crail, 256 ; of Urquhart, 257 Priory Doach, Tongland, 248 Proctouris-Croft, Ellon, 333 Procutouris-Croft, Slains, 333 Provost-Haugh, Glasgow, 277 Provost-Mains, Abernethy, 277 Pryoris-Croft, Scone, 333 Punderlaw, Arbroath, 260 Pyble, in Lewis, 14 Quarterland of the Monks, Kirkcolm, 335 Queen Margaret, 296, 391 Queen Margaret's Cave, Dunfermline, 45 Queen Mary, 298 Queen's Manor, Forfar, 297 Queensferry, Freiris-Croft, at, 335 Quentin, St, 144; Abbey of, at Beauvais, 247 Quincey, Robert de, 268 Quiricus, or St Cyric, 20 Quivox, St, 310 ; variants of the name, 30 Racome, 234 Radulphus, Bishop of Aberdeen, 357 Rafford, Temple-stanes, in, 361 Ralph de Nevyll, 56 Ramsay of Dalhousie, Sir Alexander, 55 Ramsays of Dalhousie, 280 Rannulph de Soulis, 56 Raphoe, Andrew, Bishop of, 40 Rath in Irish place-names, 387 Rath Erenn, in Alban, 23 Rathmuriel, Garioch, 387 Rathven, Church of St Peter in, 382 ; Leper-hospital in, 382 Ravenna, death of St Germanus at, 19 Ravenstone, the, Tyrie, 129 Rayne, Andersmas Fair, in, 315 Reay, Cross- Kirk, in, 178 Red - castle, Ross - shire, formerly Ardmanach, 240 Redhall Tower, the burning of, 136 Redpatrick, DumA'iesshire, 129 Regulus, or Rule, St, 52 Regulus, St, 304, 397 ; reliques of St Andrew brought to Fife by, 16 Relig-Oran, Tiree, 8 Renfrew, St Thomas's Croft, in, 339 Renfrewshire, Kilbarchan parish, in, 97; Killallan, in, 116; Kilmalcolm, in, 88 ; Kilpeter, in, 85 Rennyhill, Fife, 317 Rerwick, Dundrennan Abbey, in, 248 Resolis, in the Black Isle, 133 Restalrig, Robert Logan of, 57 Restennet, Robert, prior of, 262 Retreats, 36 INDEX. 455 Rhone Hill and Park, Kirkcudbright- shire, 162 Riddell, Hugh, Lord of Cranstoun, 246 Ridge of Kilbride, Keir, 317 Ridge of the Churchyard, in Bute, 93 Rievaiilx, 60 Rinansey, North Ronaldshay, 294 Kingan, a form of Ninian, no Ringin', or Ringan's, Stane, Leslie, Aberdeenshire, 407 Robert the Bruce, 329 ; heart of, buried at Melrose, 251 ; and the Red Comyn, 248 Robert I., grant of lands by King, 72, 373 Robert HL, 332 ; charter to Cross- raguel of, 144 Robert, Archbishop of St Andrews, 65 Robert, Prior of Restennet, 262 Roche, St, traces of, in Scotland, 17, 18 Ri^vald Brusison, Earl, 129, 294 Rollok, David, of Kincladye, 334 Romald-Kirk, Yorkshire, 188 Rome, Ecclesiastical Council in, 28 Ronan, St, alias Rowan, 22 ; three islands called after, 293 Rood Acres, Jedburgh, 332 Rood Crofts, St Andrews, 332 Rood of Scotland, the Black, 179 Rood, or Holy Cross, place-names derived from the, 170 Rood Street, in Crail, 177 Roodyard, Dundee, 175 Roque or Rook, St, traces of, in Scot- land, 17, 18 Rosnat, monastery of, 235 Ross and Sutherland, Killearnan in, 106 Rossinclerach, Carse of Cowrie, 284 Rosskeen, Hospitill in, 380 Ross-shire, Applecross, in, 191 ; Culli- cudden parish, in, 19 ; Kilchrist parish, in, 83 ; parish of Kiltearn, in, 84 ; Loch Killin, in, 80 Rostinoth, Priory of, 42 Rothesay, Cilla'bhruic, in, 298 ; Cross- beg and Crossmore, in, 165 ; Skeoch, in, 26 ; St Bride's Hill, at, 159 Rothiemay, Corskellie, in, 172 Rothisay, 389 Rottenrow and Drygate, Glasgow, 184 Round - towers, churches in Norfolk with, 68 Row, Kirkmichael farm in parish of, 134 Roxburgh, Freir Croft, near, 335 ; Maison Dieu, at, 367 Roxburghshire, Abbot rule, in, 247 ; Friars' Haugh, in, 248 ; Hermitage Castle, in, 55 ; Kirkbank, in, 123 ; parish of St James, in, 17; Prior's Land, in, 251 ; St Boswell's, in, 34 ; Wheelkirk, in, 125 Rubislaw, Friartoun, at, 259 Rudha M'Shannich, Kintyre, 102 Rudwell Croft, Fifeshire, 172 Rufus, St, 256, 295 Ruid-Aiker, near Knghorn, 332 Ruidcroft, near Stirling, 332 Ruidiscroft, Aberdeen, 332 Rule, or Regulus, St, 16 Rule Hervey, Roxburghshire, 247 Rulesness, Shetland, 323 Rumbold's Wyke, Essex, 188 Rume's Cross, Forfarshire, 188 Rum wold, Rumwoldus, St, 188 Rutherglen, Chapel Croft, in, 329 ; Crossflat, in, 167 ; King's Crossbill, in, 185 ; market-cross of, 185 ; Pants, in, 340; Spittal, in, 371; Temple- cross, in, 167 Ruthven, Balbirnie, in, 395 Ruthwell, Crossgills, in, 169 ; Kirkstyle, in, 125 Ruthwell Cross, the, formerly at Priest- woodside, 282 Rydderch Hael, King of Strathclyde, 31 Sabaria, in Pannonia, 18 Sabina, mother of St Cuthbert, 140 Sacristan's Croft, Coldingham, 334 Sacrister Croft, Scone, 334 Saddell Abbey, 298 Sagart in place-names, 285 Saints, bays named after, 307, 308 ; fords connected with names of the, 311 ; ports and harbours named after, 308 ; streams associated with, 309 Sam-Maneuke's Day, 240 Sancta Cruxwell, Perthshire, 173 Sanct-German's Aikar, Invertiel, 341 " Sanct - Laurence - Croft," Stirling Bridge, 338 Sanct-Slartines, Errol, 18 Sanct Myrnois Croft, Barry, 341 Sanctuary-Crofts, Linlithgow, 330 Sanctuary Way, Old Melrose, 251 Sandilands, chapel at Stirling, endowed by the, 26 Sandilands, John, of Calder, 171 Sanquhar, Corsnavok, in, 189 ; hospital at, 369 Santa Casa, the Cottage of the Virgm, 208 Sautre, Johan de, 354 Scandbothy, Robert Stewart of, 195 Scarba Island, 197 Scarinche, chapel of St Catan, at, 105 Schevez, Archbishop of St Andrews, 150 Sciennes, Edinburgh, 7, 270 456 INDEX. Scone, Abbotiscroft and Friertoun, at, 262 ; Annaty-burn, in, 347 ; Dowcat- croft, at, 333 ; market-cross at, 184 ; monastery of, 261 ; Mote Hill of, S3 ; Pryoris - Croft, in, 333 ; Sacrister Croft, at, 334 ; St James's Croft, at, 339 ; Tea'n Ablj, at, 262 ; Trinity- Croft, at, 332 Scone Abbey, 395 ; connection of Dornoch Cathedral with, 262 Scone and Aberdeen, relics of St Fergus at, 28 Scotland, the oldest cross known in, 176 n. Scotlandwell, hospital at, 377 Scott, Sir Walter, 35 ; of Buccleuch, 56 Scnn-Choluimcille, 10 Scrinium, a shrine, 10 Segenius, Abbot of lona, 38 "Seikmaniscroft," near Stirling, 331 Sell Island, Balvicar, in, 276 Selkirk, The Batts, at, 245 ; lakes called after St Helen, near, 302 ; origin of the name, 391 Selkirk-Abbatis, Selkirk-Regis, 245 Selkirkshire, Ashkirk, in, 126 ; Binram's Cross, in, 188 ; Kirkhope, in, 127 Semmidoes, Semmidores, the standing- stones of, 21 Semple, the Lords, 302 Senaic, St, 102 Senan, or Senaic, St, 102 Senwick, Kissoktoun, in, 396 Serb or Sair, variants of Serf, 22 Serf, St, 313 ; exploits of, 327 ; lines by Wyntoun upon, 43 ; patron of Monzievaird parish, 22 Servant of St Maluog, 98 Servanus, St, alias St Serf, 21 ; legend of, 337 Severus, Bishop of Treves, 19 Sgire a Mhartinn, Ross-shire, 19 Sgire-na-Luac (Cromdale), 28 Shaneccles, Dumbartonshire, 66 Sheanakil, 89 Shearers, the Eleven, at Hounam, 401 Sherar, Duncan, parson of Clatt, 148 Shetland, Crucifield, in, 178 ; Kirkholm, in, 124; Kirkness, in, 124; Man- gaster, in, 238 ; Presgarth, in, 283 ; St Cruz, in, 178; standing - stones called the Holy Kirk, in, 130 Shettleston, Glasgow, 185 Shiant Isles, 289 ; Elian Mhuire, one of the, 199 Shiskin, the burial-place of St Molios, 47 ; sculptured effigy, formerly in the kirkyard of, 412 Sienna, nunnery of St Catherine of, 7, 20 Silver, chalice of, in St Nicholas's, Aberdeen, 148 Silver, image of St Olaf in, 21 Silver, thankoffering of fetters of, 17 Sister-Lands, at Aberdour, 254 Sithean Mor, lona, 316 Sith-Mun, on the Holy Loch, 99 Skeoch, in Rothesay, 26 ; in St Ninians parish, the chapel of, 26 Skeoch Hill, Mauchline, 26 Skibo, 227 ; Dowcatland, at, 333 Skinnet Church, 124 Skirdrostan, Aberlour, Banffshire, 6 Skirling, St John's Hill and Croft, 339 Skreen, in Meath, 10 Skryne, Forfarshire, 10 Skye, Kilchrist parish, in, 84 ; Kilmarie, in, 119: Kilmolniy, in, 119; Kil more, in, 198; Kilmuir, in, 200; Mugstot, in, 238 Skye and Argyllshire, Kilmartin, in, 109 Slains, Procutouris-Croft, in, 333 Slamannan, Stirlingshire, 19 Sleepy Market, the, 133 Slewdonnan, Kirkmaiden, 32 1 Sma' Glen, Perthshire, Bal-na-Croisk, in the, 183 Smailholm, Spittal, in, 369 Sodor and Man, 231 Somerled, Lord of the Isles, 189 Somerville, Sir Thomas, 371 Sorbie, Penkiln Bum, in, 81 Sorn, Auchmannoch, in, 240 Soules, Sir John de, 1S6 South Ayrshire, Leffincleiry, in, 284 South Knapdale, Glenakille, in, 78 South Ronaldshay, St Martin's Stone, in, 414 South Uist, Ardmichael, in, 316, 321 ; Kilpeter, in, 86 ; Kirkidale, in, 123 Southend and Campbeltown, Kintyre, 278 Soutra, Girthgate, near, 366 ; Tamty Well, in, 367 Soutra Hill, Trinity Hospital, on, 366 Spital, near Annan, 370 ; at Gosford, 373 ; at Monkeigie, 380 Spital, Over and Nether, in Lauder, 369 Spital, Wester and Easter Hill of, Penicuik, 375 Spital of Glen Dye, 365 ; Glen Muick, 365 ; Glenshee, 365 Spitelholme, Hamilton, 371 Spittal, at Arngibbon, 372 ; near Bal- fron, 372; near Biggar, 371; at Cambuslang, 371 ; Carnwath, 371 ; in Crailing, 368 ; in Ednam, 368 ; in Killearnan, 380 ; in Kirkmabreck, 370 ; in Old Kilpatrick, 372 ; in INDEX. 457 Penninghame, 370; in Rutheiglen, 371 ; in Smailhoim, 369 Spittal, in Scottish localities, 2, 364 Spittal, Mickle and Little Stoneykirk, 370 Spittal-Burn, Dumbarton, 372 Spittal Burn and Hill, Dunfermline, 377 Spittal-croft, Linlithgow, 374 Spittal Hill, Caithness, 380 Spittaletoun, Klmaronock, 373 Spittalfield, in Caputh, 377 ; in Inver- keithing, 377 SpittalrouU, 368 Spittal's Hospital, Stirling, 376 Spittel, in Strathore, 377 Spittelbanck, Eckfoi-d, 368 Spittelcroft, Linlithgow, 331 Spittelhaugh, West Linton, 370 ■ Spittelhill, Aberdeen, 383 Spittelquarter, Rutherglen, 372 Spittelrig, Tinwald, 370 Spittelstanes, Teviotdale, 368 Sprouston, Prestrebrig, in, 283 Spytelcroft, near Elgin, 331 St Abb's, Berwickshire, 32, 323 St Adamnan's Acre, Campsie, 342 Croft, Glenmoriston, 342 St Adrian's Cave, Fifeshire, 50 Chapel, Isle of May, 50 Coffin, Isle of May, 41 1 St Alexander's Fair, at Keith, 317 St Andrews, i, 15, 227, 395 ; Abbey Croft, at, 329; chief Bishopric re- moved from Abemethy to, 15 ; David de Bemham, Bishop of, 4 ; Lady Craig at, 205 ; Malvoisin, Bishop of, 269 ; origin of, 243 ; Priory of, 279 ; Prior-Acres, at, 334 ; Rood Crofts, at, 332 ; Archbishop Schevez of, 150 ; the See of, 228 ; St Leonard's Hos- pital at, 377 ; St Serfs Island made over to, 296 ; Archdeacon Thomas of, 258 St Andrews, parish of, in Elginshire, 16 ; in Orkney, 16 St Andrew's Hill, Aberdeenshire, 315 St Andrews-Lhanbryd, Elginshire, 63 St Anne's Lane, Perth, 377 St Antony, in Leith, Preceptory of, 57 St Arnold's Seat, Tannadice, 322 St Asaph, Cathedral of, in Wales, 4 Well of, 4 St Augustine's Land, at Scone, 262 St Baithene's Hill, 100 St Baldred's Cradle, at Whitberry Point, 49 Well, 128 Whirl, 312 St Barchan's Day and Fair, 97 St Barr's Island, 290 St Barry's Bell, 98 St Bathan's or Bothan's, old name of Yester parish, 32 Well, believed never to freeze, 253 St Bees, Cumberland, 112 St Boawell's, Roxburghshire, Fair at, 34 St Brannan's Day and Fair, 97 St Brendan's Hollow, Boyndie, 326 Port, 96 Stanes, Boyndie, 406 St Bride's Close, in Carmichael parish, 9 Hill, in Dumfriesshire, 317 ; at Rothesay, 159 Ring, Monifieth, 416 Well, 5 ; at Auchtergaven, 325 St Bridget's Chapel, Wigtownshire, 137 Church, 137 Shrine, at Kildare, 92 St Brieux, Brittany, 297 St Brioc's Church, Bute, 120 St Brock Fair, Rothesay, 26 St Brycedale, at Ivirkcaldy, 138 St Bryde's Kirk, Traquair, 137 St Buite's Fort, 149 St Catan's Well, Bute, 104 St Catherine's of the Hopes, 326 Of the Kaims, 326 Of Sienna, Edinburgh, 7 On Loch Fyne, 20 St Catherine's Chapel at Shotts, 20 St Catherine's, a district in Shotts parish, Lanarkshire, 20 Dub, Slains, 307 Green, Banff, 324 Hill, Aberdeen, 317 Place and Gardens, 270 St Causnan's Flaw, 95 St Chedd's Fair, 390 St Clair of Roslin, Lady, 270 St Colmes-Aikar, Auldearn, 341 St Colm's, ancient name of Burness parish, 28 Hillock, Old Deer, 318 Market, 341 St Columba's Cave, at Ardnamurchan, 46, vide Columba Well, Keils, Argyllshire, 76, 135, vide Columba St Combs, Buchan, 3, 28 St Comgall's society at Bangor, 1 18 St Conall's Well, 146 St Congan's Church, Lochalsh, 116 Fair, at Dalmally, 43 Pool, 143 St Connallis Stane, Paisley, 413 St Constantine's Church and Fair, at Dunnichen, 95 St Conval's Dowry, 147 St Coombs Kirk, Caithness-shire, 13S St Cruz, Shetland, 178 St Cuthberl's, i ; at Edinburgh, 33 458 INDEX. St Cuthbert's Chapel, Old Melrose, l6o Croft, Murtle, 341 Holm, Ayrshire, 323 Hospital, 333 St Cyrus, Kincardineshire, formerly Ecclesgreig, 73 ; Kirkside, in, 123 ; Lauriston, in, 393 St Cyrus' Spring, 20 Ward, 21 St David Menzies of Weem, Perthshire, 44 St Davids, in Dalgetty, Fife, 25 ; in Madderty, Perthshire, 25 St David's Monastery, 235 St Donnan's Well, Island of Eigg, lOI St Drostan's Croft, Urquhart, 337 St Duthac's Altar in St Nicholas's, Aberdeen, 148 St Duthus' Fairs, Cairn, Scalp, &c., 394 St Earnan's Hill, Sutherlandshire, 106 St Eddran's Slack, Buchan, 317 St Enoch, origin of the name, 340 St Faelan's Church, 116 St Fechan's Chapel, at Grange of Conon, 27 Hermitage, at Grange of Conon, 27 Well, at Grange of Conon, 27 St Fergus, i St Fergus, parish of, in Buchan, 28 St Fergus's Cave, in Glamis, Forfarshire, 44 Well, in Glamis, 45 St Fillans, Perthshire, I, 23, 116 St Fillan's Chair, Glendochart, cures effected at, 410 ; at Killallan, 410 St Fillan the Leper's Church, 116 St Finan's Eve, 1 16 St Fink, an estate in Bendochy, 22 Hill of, 22 St Fittick's Bay, 308 St Flannan's Chapel on Island More, 155 St Fumac's Well, 152 St George's Day, 5 St George's Hospital, Dunkeld, 378 St Germains, in Cornwall, 19; in East Lothian, 19, 359 St Germain's Plain, North Wales, 19 St Giles's, I, 33 St Glass's Well, 396 St Hannand's Chapel, wax for, 342 St Helen's Loch, Stirlingshire, 303 St Inan's Chair, Beith, 41 1 St Irnie, no St James's Croft, Scone, 339 St James' parish, Roxburghshire, 17 St John of Jerusalem, the Knights of, 2, 374 St John the Baptist, 16S St John, Valley of, Elginshire, 324 St John's Acre, Linlithgow, 339 Chair, Dairy, Kirkcudbrightshire, 409 Church, 86 Close, Forbes, 355 Croft, in Aberdeen, 339 ; at Car- doness, 339; at Inch, 339; at Poltoune, 339 Cross, Edinburgh, 187 Head, Caithness-shire, 323 Hospital, Hutton, 369 Hill, Edinburgh, 7 Hill, and Croft, in Peeblesshire, 355 ; at Skirling, 339 Kirk, Lanarkshire, 134 Loch, Dunnet, 302 Well and Croft, near Aberdeen, 339 Well farm, at Fyvie, Aberdeen- shire, 5 ; near Stirhng, 5 St Johnstoun, old name of Perth, 6, 392 " St Johnstoun's Ribbons," 392 St Katherine's Crofts, near Elgin, 342 St Kessog, supposed effigy of, 415 St Kevin's Bed, Glendalough, 94 St Kieran, variants of the name, 47 St Kieran's Cave, Campbeltown, Kin- tyre, 46 Church, Ayrshire, 93 St Kilda, island of, 295 ; Columba's Chapel in, 3 St Laurence parish alias Slamannan, Stirlingshire, 19 St Laurence's Well, in Slamannan, 19 St Lawrence House, Haddington, 393 St Lawrence Kirk, 149 St Lawrence's Croft, Orchard, and Yard, Dunfermline, 338 St Leonard, Loffold, 56 St Leonards, on the North Esk, 376 St Leonard's Acres, Peebles, 338 Bank, Perth, 377 Hill, in Banff, 317; in Dunfermline, 317 ; in Edinburgh, 7 Hospital, in Ladykirk, 161 ; in Edinburgh, 7 ; in Fife, suppres- sion by Prior Hepburn of, 17 ; in Lanarkshire, 44 ; near Peebles, 370 ; at St Andrews, 377 St Machar's Cathedral, Old Aberdeen, 28 ; Girth-Cross of, 190 St Machar's Inch, Aberdeen, 297 St Mackessog's Chapel, in Drymen, 66 St Maddan's Chapel, at Freswick, 26 St Madden's, or Medan's, in Airlie, 26 St Madoc's Well, 162 St Madoes parish, Perthshire, 21 St Magnus's Fair, Halkirk, 381 St Maha's Well, 396 St Maik's Well, 322 St Maling's Church, Fifeshire, 70 St Malo, Brittany, 72 INDEX. 459 St Maigaret's Croft, near St Boswell's, 329 Hope, 306 Inch, 296 Loch, near Edinburgh, 307 Stone, Dunfermline, 412 Well, near Edinburgh, 307 St Mark's Cross, Ayrshire, 187 St Maman's Chair, Mamoch, 409 St Martin's Abbey, an estate, 19 Acre, Megginch, 341 Den, L<^e-Montrose, 326 Parish, Perthshire, 18 St Mary, 259 St Mary and St Anne, Collegiate Church of, 277 St Mary Magdalene, Chapel of, at Dundee, 8 St Maiy of Placentia, 7 St Mary's, the Abthen of, 207 of the Lowes, 207 Abbey of Stirling, or Cambusken- neth, 263 Chapel, Hermitage o^ Kilgary, 55 Church, in Uist, 200 Holm, 205 Isle, 143, 205, 296 ; Great and Little Cross, at, 206 Lake, Mull, 206 Loch, Selkirkshire, 206 Priory, at Fyvie, 261 WeU, in Chapelton, 158 ; in Aber- deenshire, 203 ; in Berwickshire, 201 St M'Breck, statue of, 138 St Medan's Cave, Wigtownshire, 47, 78 Well and Knowe, Airlie, 26 St Meddan, at Troon, Ayrshire, 26 St Merryn's parish, Cornwall, 95 St Methvenmas Fair, 23 St Michael's, at Dumfries, 133 ; at Linlithgow, 133 St Michael's Acres, Black Isle, 339 Bog, 134 Close, near Dimdrennan Abbey, 9 Croft, near Perth, 339 Hill, Fife, 316 WeU, Banfishire, 133 St Modan's Chair, Ardchattan, 409 WeU and Chapel, 106, 394 St Modwena's Garden, at Burton, 49 St MoUos' Cave, Holy Island, Runic inscriptions in, 47 St Moloc's Seat, or Cairn, Lismore, 416 St Moluac's Church, Raasay, 98 St Monans, 113; coimection of St Adrian with, 24 St Monan's Cave, at Inverry, 25 Chaplainry, Kilteam, Ross-shire, 25 WeU, Pittenweem, 25 Wynd, Edinburgh, 24 St Muggin's Seat, Flisk, 411 St Muireach's Well, near Dowally, III St Mullen's, Co. Carlow, 114 St Mungo's, Dumfriesshire, 31 ; parish of, peculiarity regarding, 278 St Mungo's, former name of Penicuik parish, 31 St Mungo's Hill, near Huntly, 317 Well, Penicuik, 31 St Nicholas', Aberdeen, St Duthac's Altar in, 148 St Nicholas' Craig, near Dundee, 322 Hospital, near Elgin, 379 Parish, in Stronsay, 21 St Xinians, Stirlingshire, i, 29, 65 ; a chapel at Skeoch in parish of, 26 St Ninian's Cave, Glasserton, 49 Croft, at Glasgow, 340, 384 HoUow, Roxburghshire, 326 Hospital, Glasgow, 372 Isle, Ayrshire, 294 Mill and Acre, near Coupar- Angus, 341 Point, Bute, 323 WeU, StirUng, 26 St Ola, once a parish in Orkney, 21 St Olaf s Church, in Cruden, 21 St Olaf's Kirk, Orkney, 128 St OUa's Chair, Shetland, 295 St Omer, Geoffrey de, 352 St Oran's burying-ground, 236 St Oran's HiU, 319 St Orland's Stone, Glamis, 407 St Oswald's Priory, Pontefract, 262 St Palladius's Spring, 150 St Patrick's Chapel, Closebum, 136 Croft, Carrick, 341 Fair, 136 Seat, Old Kilpatrick, 322 Spring, Kirkpatrick-Durham, 136 Stone, Hoy, and Old Kilpatrick, 414 Stone and Seat, 91 Vat, in Tiree, 414 St Paul's Linn, on the Earn, 313 St Peter's, in Stronsay, 17 ; a vUlage in Boreray, 17 St Peter's Day, Fair of, 85 St Peter's WeU, Renfrewshire, 85 St Phillans, old name of Forgan parish, in Fife, 23 St Quivox, parish of, 30 St Ringan's Isle, 294 St Ringan's, Stirlingshire, 29 St Ronan, the Church of, 2 St Ronan's Fair, 22 St Ronan's Pool, River Earn, 22 St Roque's, lines by Lyndsay on pil- grimages to the shrine of, 18 St Rowan's BeU, 22 St Rule's Cave, 52 460 INDEX. St Sare's Fair, 327 St Saviour's Acres, Dundee, 332 St Scawachie (St Skeoch ?), 26 St Serf, bridge in Glendevon bearing the name of, 22 St Serfs Cave, Fifeshire, 43 Island, Loch Leven, 296 Laws, West-Lothian, 319 old parish of, 21 Water, Perthshire, 303 St Skay, Forfarshire, 26 St Skeoch, Forfarshire, 25 St Skeoch, or Skay, burying-ground of, 25 St Skeoch's Well, at Stirling, 26 St Stevinis Croft, Barry, 341 St Tarkin's Well, loi, 290 St Tarnan's Market and Well, 326 St Thomas, a net fishing called, 260 St Thomas-k-Becket's Hill, Old Aber- deen, 318 St Thomas's Chair, Halkirk, 408 Croft, CoUessie and Renfrew, 339 St Tredwell's Loch, Papa - Westray, tradition about, 303 St Trcdline's Fair, 304 St Vigeans, or Aberbrothock, Forfar- shire, 26 ; Fair of, 27 St Vigean's Church, position of, 27 St Virgin's Market, 27 St Wallach's Hermitage, 389 St Wallach's Stone, Logie-Mar, 406 St Winifred's Well, Cambusnethan, 65 St Winnin's Pool, 138 St Wynning's Well, at Kilwinning, 115 Stable-Green-Port, Glasgow, 18 Standing - stones called " Auld Kirk," 130 Stephen, St, the Martyr, 309; dedication to, in Wigtownshire, 134 Steward, William, 383 Stewart, Robert, of Scandbothy, 195 Stewart, Walter, Earl of AthoU, 277 Stewarton, Ayrshire, Chapel to the Virgin at, 157 Stiklestad, battle of, 129 Stirling, bull-baiting at, 140 n. ; chapel endowed by the Sandilands, at, 26 ; Craigannet, near, 347 ; Hospitals at, 376, 377 ; Lady Croft, near, 339 ; Priest's Acres, near, 334 ; Ruidcroft, near, 332; " Seikmaniscroft," near, 331 ; chapel of St Roque, at, 18 ; St Ninians Well, at, 26 Stirling, Bridge of, " Sanct- Laurence- Croft "at, 338 Stirlingshire, Ballancleroch, in, 284 ; Crosshall, in, 186 ; Drumakill, in, 79 ; Kirk-o'-Muir, in, 128 ; Knock- naheglaish, in, 79 ; Slamannan parish in, 19 J St Ninians, in, 29 Stobb Cross, Fifeshire, 166 Stobcross, at Glasgow, 166, 275 Stone Circle on Sithean Mor, lona, 316 Stone circles, 401 ; churches built on the sites of, 403 Stone, coins placed as thankofferings on a sculptured, 412 ; cup-marked, at Boyndie, 406 ; near bridge of Fintry, 403 ; effigy of, found in a cairn at Bandry, 415 ; a foot-marked, in South Ronaldshay, 414 Stone, Roman manner of building with, 60 Stone of Bennachie, the Maiden, 403 of Odin, 403 of the Bishop, 230 the Red Priest, Durness, 286 the miracle-working blue, 238 Stonecrosshill, 164 Stones of Hy, the Black, 415 Stones standing at Blair-na-Coi, 363 ; of Laggangam, 402 Stones used as boats, 412, 413 Stoneykirk, Wigtownshire, origin of the name, 134; Mickle and Little Spittal, in, 370 Stracathro, the Chanter's Brig, in, 229 Strachur, Kilmaglas, 107, 396 Strafontane, hospitals in, 369 Strafontane and St Bathan's, parishes of, 253 Straid-na-Marbh, 236 Stralachlane, or Kilmorie, 1 19, 198 Strath parish, Skye, 84 ; Clach-na-h'- Annait, in, 344 Strathallan, 65 Strathblane, "the Crossbill," in, 165 Strathbraan, Clachan Aoradh, in, 405 Strathdon, Dhalachlirich, in, 284 Stratheam, Aimatt, in, 346 ; associated with St Fergus, 28 ; dedication to St Fotinus in, 148 ; Monk's Croft, in, 335 Stratheam, Gilbert, Earl of, 264 Strathmartin, Martin's Stone, with symbols, in, 407 Strathmiglo, Fifeshire, 70 Strath-Nethan, 73 Strathore, Spittel, in, 377 Stream of the Church, 123 Streams associated with saints, 309 Stroanpatrick, 320 Stronsay, St Nicholas parish in, 21 ; St Peters, in, 17 Strowan parish commemorative of St Rowan or Ronan, 22 Suidhe-Challum-Chille, Arran, 412 Suidhe Chatain, Bute, 104, 322 Suidhe Chuimein, Fort Augustus, 322 Suidhe Ghuirmein, Urquhart, 322 Suidhe Mhaodain, 409 Suidhe Mhercheird, 322 INDEX. 461 Summereve, and Arrow, variants of Maelrubha, 119 Summereve Fair, at Keith, 6 Sutherlandshire, Balnakiel, in, 81 ; Corsdaill, in, 169; Killean, in, 86; Kilmachalmag, in, 109 ; Kilmallie, in, 113 ; Kilphedder, in, 85; Kin- tradwell, in, 304 Suy, Dewar Vernon's Croft, in, 336 Sweetheart Abbey, 64, 248 Tabeime, on the Nile, 234 Tai, altar-piece at, 145 Tain, or Baile-Dhuich, 394 ; Kirksheaf, near, 125 ; privilege of girth at, 190 ; Shrine of St Duthac at, 1 17 Talaricanus, St, 290 TaUa-na-h'-Anaid, Loch Broom, 347 Talorggain, or Talarican, St, loi Tanglan's ford, 311 Tarentum, 3 Tarff river, Wigtownshire, 143 Tamty Well, Soutra, 367 Tarvat, Balbirny, in, 395 Tarves, Barthol Chapel, in, 156 ; Priest's Meadow, in, 280 Tealing, Hugh Gifford, Lord of, 279 TeampuU na Cro, Naomh, 177 Teampull Patrick, Tiree, 362 TeampuU Pheadair, Lewis, 362 Teampull Rona, in Lewis, 2 ; on North Rona, 362 Teampul-na-Trianaide, North Uist, 84 Tea'n Abb, Scone, 262 TeghmoUng, or St Mullen's, Co. Carlow, 114 Templar - lands, in Haddingtonshire, 166 ; in Kinblethmont, 360 "Tempil- croft," Fetteresso, 330; at Harlaw, Aberdeenshire, 330 Templars, the, 2 ; characteristics of the, 352 ; relics of the, in the Grassmarket, Edinburgh, 361 ; suppression of the Order of the, 355 Templars and Hospitallers, 373 Templars' Church, Maryculter, 358 Templar's Grave, the. Loch Lomond, 357 n. Temple as a place-name, 2 Temple, in various parishes, 356 Temple, The, Kinneff, 356 Temple and Dalhousie, 26S Temple Acre, Mow, 330, 360 Temple Brae and Feu, Turriff, 361 Temple Close, TuUynessle, 355 Temple Craigtoun, 361 Temple Croft, Harlaw, Aberdeenshire, 360 Temple Croft, in various localities, 361 Temple Denny, 361 Temple Essie, 361 Temple House, in Currie, 360; in Loudon, 360 ; at Manor, 360 Temple Liston, 361 Templebank, Fordoun, 361 Templecroft, Aberlady, 330 Temple-cross, Rutherglen, 167 Templefield, at CrossapoU, 362 ; at Gladsmuir, 361 ; in Tongue, 362 Templefurde, Arbroath, 361 Temple-hall, in various localities, 360 Templehill, in various localities, 360 Temple-land, in Kirkchrist, Kirkcud- brightshire, 351 ; in Peebles, 332 Templeland of St John, Clackmannan, 355 Temples, in Currie, 357 ; in Eaglesham, 357 Temple-stanes, Rafford, 361 Templeton, in Kildrummy, 360 ; in Newtyle, 360 Temple-Well, Whitsome, 360 Templumflornm, 266 Tennankirk, another name for Forglen, 151 Teman, St, 150, 290, 325 Terregles, Kirkcudbrightshire, 67 Teviotdale, Kirkton parish, in, 390 ; Spittelstanes, in, 368 Thenew, St, mother of St Kentigern, 50 Thomas, Archdeacon of St Andrews, 258 Thomas a Becket, dedication to the Virgin and, 260 Thomas, St, 124 Thorfinn, Earl, 232 Thurso, fair held at, 5 Tibbermasko, at Stirling, 26 Tibbermuir, Perthshire, 194; Annat- land, in, 347 ; Kirkcroft, in, 329 Tigk in place-names, 390 Tigh an Teampuill, Urquhart, 363 Tillicoultry, Corsnaachten, in, 189 Tillydrone, 318 Tillythrowie, chapel at, 283 Tinwald, Spittelrig, in, 370 Tiran Teampull, Aboyne, 358 Tiree and Coll, CrossapoU, in, 181 Tiree, churches in, 8 ; St Oran's Grave- yard, in, 9 ; St Patrick's Vat, in, 414; Teampull, Patrick, in, 362 Tiron, Benedictine monastery at, 245 Tobair-na-Muire, 199 Tobar Ashig, Skye, 4 Tobar-Churadain, Corriemony, 337 Tobar-na-h'-Annait, Killigray, 344 Tobermory, Mull, 194 Tom-Aonghais, Balquhidder, 13 Tom Eunan, Inverness-shire, 319 Tom-ma-Chessoig, at Callander, 320 Tom-na-Clog, Inch-ta-vannoch, 300 Tom-na-crosh, 168 462 INDEX. Ton and Toun, in Scottish topography, 182 Tongland, the Abbey of, 248 ; Barcaple, in, 160 ; Lairdmannoch, in, 248 Tongue, Kirkiboll, in, 286 ; Temple- field, in, 362 Torosay, Mull, Columkil, in, 29 Torphichen, 374 ; Knightridge, in, 374 ; sanctuary of, 190 Torphins, Aberdeenshire, 168 Terr Abb, 236 Torvean, near Inverness, 100, 319 Toubir-Kilda, 295 Tough, stone circle called " Auld Kirk " in, 130 Tower Hill, Dunfermline, 45 Tower of St Regulus, St Andrews, 52 Towie, Aberdeenshire, Kilbartha, or, III Towstane, in Fyvie and Rayne, the, 18s Traban nam Manach, lona, 237 Trahil, Trayl, 206 Trailtrow, hospital at, 370 Tredwel, St, cures effected at the chapel of, 303 Treves, Severus, Bishop of, 19 Triduana, St, 304 Trinity Church, Ayrshire, 144 Trinity-Croft, Scone, 332 Trinity Fair, Brechin, 5 Trinity Friars, the, 366 Trinity-Gask, Perthshire, 5 Trinity Hospital, on Soutra Hill, 366 Trinity-Muir, near Brechin, 5 Trinity Well, Perthshire, 5 Tristan, as a variant of Drostan, 7 TroUhaena, 304 Tron, Glasgow, the, 185 Trondhjem, 231 Troon, Ayrshire, St Medan, at, 26 Trostan Hill, Ayrshire, 317 Trostane rivulet, 310 Trowan, a farm, called the Carse of, 22 Troyes, Council of, 352 Troyes, St Lupus of, 19 Trusty's Hill, Anwoth, 317 Tulliallan, Longannat, in, 347 TuUyfergus, Perthshire, 319 Tullynessle, Temple Close, in, 355 Tundergarth, the Seven Brethren, in, 401 Turgot, Confessor to Queen Margaret, 251 Turnberry Manor, 144 Turnpike, the Clam-shell, 376 Turriff, Abbey- Land, at, 261 ; Temple Brae and Fen, in, 361 ; church of, 261 Twynam, Kirkchrist, in, 132 Twynholm, or Twynam, 132 ; nunnery of Kirkchrist, in, 249 Tyninghame, 49 Tyronensians, Monastery of, 261 Uamh Chrossain, lona, 176 Uchtred, of Galloway, 253 Udny, Christ's Kirk, in, 133 ; Cloister- seat and Monkshill, in, 265 Uist, St Mary's 'Church in, 200 Ulfric Spot, monastery founded by, 48 Ultan, St, 400 Unganab, North Uist, 239 Unst, Crossbuster, in, 182 ; New Kirk, in, 130 Unthank and Caldhame, 126 Unyn, old form of Oyne, 27 Urisk haunting Beinn Doohrain, legend of an, 309 Urquhard, William, 380 Urquhart, Croit mo Chrostain, in, 337 ; Croit - an - Deoir, in, 337 ; Kil St Ninian, in, 108 ; Tigh an Teampuill, in, 363 Urquhart Priory, Elginshire, 257 Urray, Ross-shire, 83 Ursula, St, 143 Uthrogal, leper-hospital at, 383 Vallis-caulium, 269 Vallis Sti. Andrese, 269 " Varia Capella," 130 Vicar Knoll, Perth, 276 Vicar-land, and variants of, 275 " Vicars," lands called the, 276 Vicar's-Acre, Kinclaven, 334 Vicar's- Acres, Liberton, 334 Vicar's Bogend, Strathendrick, 276 Vicar's Croft, frequent occurrence of the name, 334 Vincent, St, tutelar of Lumphanan, 64 Vinnyden, Forfarshire, 125 Virgin, the, 6, 159, 160; chapel at Skeoch, 26 ; Ecclesmonichty prob- ably dedicated to, 71 ; church at Portkiln probably dedicated to, 77 ; Kailzie Church dedicated to, 124 ; Chapel of Garioch, 156; in Stewar- ton, 157; St Mary's Well, 158; Corse, 187 ; fountains placed under protection of, 194 ; few Scottish dedications to, 194; parsonage dedi- cated to, 199 ; Chapel at Delny to, 200 ; in Elgin, 202 ; at Ladybanks, 203 ; in Kilbirnie, 204 ; convent at Montrose dedicated to, 207 ; nunnery at Eccles, 253 ; tradition connected with nunnery at Abbey, 255 ; Ar- broath Abbey dedicated to, 250; Scone Abbey dedicated to, 262 ; INDEX. 463 Inchaffray, 264 ; Kinloss, 266 ; Plus- carden, 269 ; chapel in Kilmuir- Easter, 281 ; chapel in the Holy Isles, 289 ; Cupar Monastery, 310 ; names associated with the cultus of the, 339 ; patroness of the Templars, 359 ; chapel in Maxton, 367 ; hospital at Montrose dedicated to, 378 ; stones in Eigg consecrated to, 416 Virgin's Dower, the mediaeval name for England, 193 Virgin's Well, near Loch Ryan, 197 Vynninus, St, 115 Wales, St David, of, 44 Walla Kirk, on the Deveron, 152 Wallace of Craigie, 385 Wallach Pot, in the Deveron, 312 Wallach, St, 15^ 406 Walter, Bishop of Glasgow, 278 Ward-dykes, Arbroath, 260 Wardlaw and Famua parishes, Inver- ness-shire, 123 Water Cross, the, in Uist, 200 Wauchopdale, Crossmungo, in, 187 Weem, Cill Daidh, at, 44 Well, Our Lady's, 195 Well-croft, at Stirling, 26 Wells, Holy, 4, 5, 6, 7, 19, 25, 26, 27, 31, 43, 45, 65, 66, 76, 8s, 97, loi, 104, 106, III, 115, 128, 133, 13s, 136, 138, 146, 150, 152, iss, 158, 162, 227, 245, 253, 256, 282, 290, 29S. 307, 319. 321, 322, 325. 326, 344. 359. 367, 394, 396. 405 West Bmning, Linlithgowshire, 269 West Calder, Annatfield, in, 348 ; Crosswoodhill, in, 172 West Kilbride, Portincross, in, 174 West Kirk, Orkney, 126 West Linton, Paul's Well, near, 370; Spittelhaugh, near, 370 Wester Caer, manor of, 126 Westerkirk, Eskdale, 126 Westmeath, Abbot of Fobhar, in, 27 Westminster, 177 Westray, 126 Wheel, the Haly, Melrose, 252, 312 Wheel-kirk and Wheel-land, 126 " Whele Causey," 126 Whinwall Storm, a, Norfolk, 95 Whitberry Point, St Baldred's Cradle, at, 49 Whitby, Caedmon's cross, at, 173 n. ; convent of St Hilda at, 112 ; Council of, 2 White House, 60 White-cross, Wardlaw-cross, in East Kilbride, 167 Whitekirk, in Buchan, 129 ; in Had- dingtonshire, 129 Whitekirk, Corswall, in, 172 Whiteness, St Olla's Chair, at, 295 Whithorn, I, 392 ; Balnab, in, 240 ; cross with early Latin inscription at, 186 ; Kilmory Chapel, in, 197 ; Mother Water, in, 195 ; Prestrie, in, 284 ; Priory of, 353 Whitsorae, Temple- Well, in, 360 Wick, Kilminster, in, 265 ; St Fergus, patron of, 28 Wigtown, Drumanoghan, in, 240 Wigtownshire, Bameycleiry, in, 284 ; Chipperheron, in, 156; Kirkcolm, in, 135 ; Kirkcowan, in, 143 ; Kirk- inner, in, 143 ; Kirkmadrine, in, 142 ; Portacleirys and Clary, in, 284 William I., 228 William, Earl of Buchan, 265 William the Hermit, of Windsor Forest, 56 William the Lion, 2, 136, 151, 239, 259, 268, 278, 281, 366, 370; Ada, daughter of, 253 ; Grants to Arbroath Abbey by, 63 Wiltshire, Malmesbury, in, 113 Winchelstoun, Perthshire, 42 Winnal, or Winwaloe, St, 95 Winning's Well, 138 Wishart of Pitarrow, 150 Wistun, manor of, 274 Wood, image of St Barr, 118 Wood, Scotic manner of building with, 60 Woodkirk, Lanarkshire, 127 Wyndham, Balmerino Abbey burned by, 259 Wynnin, St, 301 Wyntoun, lines regarding the Isle of May, 51 ; and lines upon St Monans by, 24 Wyntoun, Prior of St Serfs, 296 Yarrow, Kirkstead, in, 126 Yester, formerly St Bathan's, East Lothian, 32 Yl-na-heglish, LochTarbert, 67 Ysbytty, in Welsh localities, 364 PRIHTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.