Mt\a WoVk i?tatt CoIIesc of Agriculture at Cornell ?Mnibers!itp 3t!)aca, M. S- SCibrarj* Cornell University Library SB 411.C89 Cultural directions for the rose, with f u 3 1924 003 408 949 The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003408949 CULTURAL DIRECTIONS FOE THE ROSE WITH FULL DESCItlPTIOlfS OF ALT, THE FIlfEST VASIETIBS IN CULTIVATION, SELECTIONS ADAPTED TO VABIOUS CIECUMSTANCES AND SITUATIONS, A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS TO BE PEKFOKMED DUEINO EACH MONTH THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. JOHN CRANSTON, KING'S ACEE NUESEEIES, NEAE HEEEEOED. FOURTH EDITION, RETISED. PREFACE. Upwards of sixteen years ago I published the First Edition of Cultural Directions for the Rose, and it is with much pleasure that I now introduce the Fourth Edition. . I have endeavoured, so far as lay in my power, to make this a thoroughly practical guide to the amateur in all matters connected with Rose culture, as well as a reliable source from which to make an unique selection. ^ Great improvement has 'taken place in the Rose since the publication of the First Edition; I have, therefore, found it necessary to entirely revise the selections. In doing so, I have discarded very many old varieties, which at that IV. time were indispensable, but now being surpassed by recent introductions, they are no longer desirable or worthy of cultivation. What experience I have gained in the cultiva- tion of the Rose has been freely and candidly given, and will, I trust, be found of some service to the amateur in the culture of this beautiful and most popular of all ' flowers. Nurseries, King's Acre, near Sereford, January, 1873. CONTENTS. PAET I. FAOE. Abeaksbmen't of Classes .3 CeOSSINO and HTBETDIZINe 47 DrppEEENT FoEMS OF Geowing Eoses 5 DisBTjDDDra 28 Diseases — Mildew, Eed Fungus, &o. ; . . . .34 ExHrBimfe and Cutting Biooms foe Show .... 60 POECING 49 Geowing Eoses in Pots foe the Geeenhousb, &c. , . 54 Insects 31 Labels . 62 Mantjee 18 Planting 19 Propagating, by Budding, Grafting, Layering, Cuttings, &c. . 40 Peopeeties of the Eose 59 Peotecting 29 Peuning 22 Eaising Seedlings . 2 Eemaeks on the Eose .1 Eemaeks on Ceossing and Htbeidizing . . . .47 EOSABIUM AND ITS AeBANGEMENT 7 Eose Conseevatoeies • .57 Selecting Yabieties 12 Situation 9 Soil 14 Stocks — The Dog Eose, Manetti, Celine, &c. . . .37 vi. PAET II. A Selection of the Pinest Eoses in Cultivation, with eull Desceipiions, &c SUMMBE EoSES — • AlbaEose Austrian Briar Eose . Ayrstire Eose . Banksian Eose . Boursault Eose . . Damask Eose Double Tello-w Eose . Evergreen Eose . . Prench Eose . Hybrid Bourbon Eose . Hybrid China Eose . Hybrid Climbing, tbe Musk, and the Prairie Eoses Hybrid Provence Eose . Moss Eose . . Multiflora Eose . . Provence or Cabbage Eose . Sweet Briar Eose . Scotcb Eose ) AUTTJHNAL EoSES Bourbon Eose China Eose Hybrid Perpetual Eose Macartney Eose . Musk Eose - Miniature China Eose . Noisette Eose Perpetual Damask Eose Perpetual Moss Eose . Perpetual Scotch Eose Tea-scented Eose .... 64 71 73 75 77 77 72 73 76 68 71 69 78 65 66 76 65 74 74 102 104 81 80 80 105 113 79 78 80 105 Vll. Select List of Sokts adapted to Vaeiotjs Ciecumstances, Soixs, &c. 1. — Selection for Town Gardens, where much smoke prevails 115 2. — Selection for the North of England, Scotland, and Cold Localities 117 3. — Selection of One Hundred of the finest varieties of Eoses for Exhibition . . . . . .118 Selection of Fifty Varieties 119 Selection of twenty-four Yarieties . . . .119 4. — Selections for Grouping or Bedding . .120 & 121 5. — Selection of CUmbing Eoses for South or East Wall 122 Selection for "West or North "Wall . . . .122 6. — Selection of the finest PUlar or Pole Eoses . . 122 7. — Selection of the best "Weeping Eoses . . .123 8.— Six of the finest Yellow Eoses . . . .123 9.— Six of the finest "White Eoses . . . .123 10. — Six of the finest brilliant Crimson Eoses . .124 11. — Six of the finest Dark Eoses . . . .124 12. — Selection of the finest Eoses for Pot Culture . .124 13. — Selection of the finest Eoses for Porcing . .125 14. — Thirty-six of the finest Eoses for growing in Pots for Exhibition ....... 126 15. — ^Yery highly scented Eoses 126 Calendah of Opeeationb poe Each Month theottghout the Yeae 127 -ocOKff/*^- CULTURAL DIRECTIONS THE ROSE PART I. There is no flower so well adapted to our changeable climate as the Rose, and certainly none with equal beauty possessing so many valuable properties. In the Rose may be found almost every shade of colour, endless varieties of form, size, &c., a delicious fra- grance not to be met with in any other flower, considerable diversity of habit, and a hardiness of constitution that admits of its adaptation to every purpose for which it may be required in the flower garden. To contrast the wonderful difference existing in the habit and character of Roses, would alone open a subject for long contemplation. Take for instance, the miniature China or Fairy Roses, which grow only a few inches in height, and compare them with the rambling Ayrshire, and other Climbing Roses, which often attain a height of 20 to 30 feet ; the characteristic distinctions between the Moss and the French or Gallica Roses ; the Tea-scented and the Hybrid Perpetual ; the summer and the autumnal blooming ; the variations in form, colour, and size. to be met with in each of these families, are alike equally remarkable, and afford a striking instance of the wonderful works of the Creator. With so vast a difference as is here to be met with, the almost endless number of varieties is not so much to be wondered at. With the exception of the introduction of a few distinct species, this work has been accomplished by- hybridizing and cross-breeding, and with a flower so very popular as the Rose, and which bears seed so freely, it is natural to suppose that the work of raising seedlings would be taken in hand by all who are fond of this most interesting pursuit. Little however has been accomplished by English amateurs or cultivators, which has often surprised me; with the French it has been otherwise ; and to them we are indebted for nearly all our finest roses ; and if we may judge by the quantity of new varieties annually introduced, they doubtless find it profitable as well as interesting. It may be said, and that justly, that our climate is not so suitable for raising seedlings as that of France, especially in the south of France. This however would apply more to tender kinds, which certainly do not mature their seed thoroughly in this country, unless artificial means are adopted. Nevertheless we have hardy seed-bearing roses in abundance, which are quite as prolific with us as in France, and in favour- able seasons ripen their seed as well. My opinion is that if crossing and the raising of seedlings were taken up by English amateurs and cultivators with the same amount of energy which has been dis- played by the French, the constitution of our roses would be much improved. Of late too many of our new roses have been deficient in two most im- portant properties; viz., freedom of growth, and hardiness of constitution ; and it more frequently happens than otherwise that a first-class rose of exquisite form and colour Ls either of bad habit, or too delicate to withstand our cold seasons. This delicacy has doubtless been produced by crossing the hardier Perpetuals too freely with the Tea- scented and other tender sorts. In England there would not be the same oppor- tunities offered for crossing with or raising from tender sorts ; our seedlings consequently would possess a hardier and more robust constitution, and be better adapted to our cold soil and climate. The fearfiil havoc which was made amongst roses, and especially the more tender ones, during the severe winter of 1860 and 1861, will I trust be the means of bringing about a more hardy race, and that all who devote their time to the interesting pursuit of raising seedlings, will not lose sight of these important circumstances. Although we may possibly not have so severe a winter for another generation, it is nevertheless quite necessary (and there is ample room for it) that the habit and con- stitution of our finest roses should be improved; and never will this be thoroughly accomplished until the task is taken up spiritedly by English amateurs and florists. Botanists have divided the Rose into sections, and again into species and sub-species, although the B 2 original species of eacli section is not easily defined, nor in fact has the origin of all been ascertained. So numerous has been the production of garden varieties, that florists have thought it necessary to make divisions and sub-divisions, taking the original species for the type, wherever it could be correctly ascertained; but in too many instances a slight difference in the leaf or habit, produced by cross- breeding, appears to have justified the adoption of a new section or family. It therefore often becomes a difficult matter to know, even by those well experi- enced in such matters, how to arrange the varieties correctly according to their respective divisions, and few agree entirely as to the location of certain varieties, which properly belong as much to one class as to another. It would be well, therefore, in all cases where practicable, to diminish rather than to increase the number of families or divisions. All roses may be included in one or the other of two great divisions, viz., summer blooming and perpetual blooming. The summer blooming are varieties which bloom only once during the season, though they vary as to the duration and time of flowering, some commencing earlier, and lasting only a short time in bloom ; others commencing later, and lasting two or three weeks : thus, with a collection of the summer blooming roses, a succession of flowers may be had for five or six weeks. The autumnal or perpetual blooming roses are such as, in the open air, bloom from June till November, or with the assistance of glass may be had in bloom nearly the whole of the year. Roses may be grown in a variety of forms, and their habit and character are such as to admit of their being adapted to a variety of purposes in the garden. Hence we have what are called Standard Roses, Half-standard, Dwarf-standard, Dwarf, Weep- ing, Climbing, PUlar or Pole Roses, Pot Roses, &c. Standard Roses are usually from four to five feet high. The height of the stem should be adjusted according to the vigour of the variety ; the object being to form a head to the plant, which when grown would appear in unison with the height of the stem. Half-Standard Roses are budded upon stems from two to two and a half feet in height, varieties of less vigorous habit being used than are required for Standard Roses. Dwarf-Standard Roses have stems from one foot to fifteen inches in height ; these are rarely used for other than the most dwarf and delicate growing kinds, such as the dwarf growing Hybrid Perpetual and Bourbon Roses. The Tea-scented Roses succeed admirably upon these low stems, either for planting out or for pot culture. Dwarf Roses are either budded or grafted upon stocks a few inches in height, or struck by cuttings or layers ; this mode of growing roses is suitable to varieties of every description, whatever their habit of growth may be, and may be made to assume various forms. Weeping Roses are varieties of the Climbing or other vigorous growing sorts, budded upon stems of the Dog Rose, four, five, to six feet in height, and 6 trained so as to form pendulous trees. These are very beautiful objects, but unless in sheltered situa- tions require to be securely tied to strong stakes, otherwise during a heavy gale of wind they are almost sure to be blown down. Pillar or Pole Roses. This form of growing roses is considered by many to be the most natural and beautiful. Certainly no plant can be more handsome than a well grown and properly trained Pillar Eose. It is not all roses that can be made to assume this form, and it would be useless to make the attempt with such sorts as are not suitable. To form hand- some Pillar Roses six to eight feet in height, such varieties must be chosen as are vigorous or robust in habit, yet not too rambling. Many of the Hybrid Chinas and Hybrid Bourbons are suitable ; so are many of the stronger growers of the Hybrid Per- petuals. Bourbons, Noisettes, &c. The Climbing Roses are sometimes used for this purpose, for which they are well adapted, provided the poles are of sufficient height and made thoroughly secure ; they should not be less than from ten to twelve feet in height. A good support for Pillar Roses may be obtained in larch poles, which are very durable ; and if they can be procured with portions of the roots attached, these will assist in keeping them firm in the ground. The yew is perhaps the best of all, and certainly no other is so durable. Having occasion to destroy some old yew tree hedges, which had been growing more than sixty years, I had them taken up with some portion of their roots left on, and the side branches projecting six or nine inches ; these have a very rustic appearance, and the snags which are left on are useful for the purpose of training the shoots tied to them. Climbing Roses are the most vigorous of all roses, and are used whenever a considerable space is to be covered in a short time. They are very suitable for covering old buildings, rough banks, old roots and trunks of trees, arbours, archways, &c. ; also for avenues and festoons, &c. Some of the best varieties are used for training against houses. Wherever planted, they thrive and make rapid growth, and when allowed to grow in a wild and natural form in dingles, or upon sloping grounds, have a very picturesque and beautiful appearance. Bedding Roses are varieties of dwarf roses which are used for planting in groups or beds. Varieties of the most decided and attractive colovirs are usually used for this purpose ; and these when planted in large masses (distinct varieties being used for each group) are very effective; indeed, nothing can possibly be more beautiful than large groups of roses of one kind when in full bloom. Suitable varieties for this, as weU as selections for other purposes, will be found towards the end of the work. The Rosakidm and its Aerangement. The form or design of a Rosarium should be as simple and uniform as possible. A geometrical figure with gravel walks and box or tile edging is best. The beds may be parallelograms, ovals, or circles, arranged according to the form of the ground and other cir- 8 cumstances. In no instance, however, should the beds be more than seven or eight feet in width, and the walks from four to five feet : if the Rosarium is upon a large scale, and the beds eight feet in width, the main walks should not be less than five feet. A terrace or mound should be formed upon one or more sides, where the whole can be seen from one point ; the effect when viewed from above, when all the plants are in full bloom, is very striking and beautiful, and will amply repay this extra expense. It will likewise form an excellent boundary, which should in all cases be made to separate the rosarium from the other parts of the garden. The beds being of moderate width and a path to correspond, will allow of each plant to be examined, tended, and the flowers gathered without inconvenience, or the beds being trampled upon, which in wet weather would be injurious. If the situation to be appropriated to the Rosarium is exposed to north-east or north-west winds, an ever- green fence should be planted to afford protection. Though of slow growth (unless plants of large size can be obtained) nothing would harmonise so well, or be so well suited to the purpose, as a yew hedge. A quicker growing hedge would be the Thuja occi- dentalis or Thuja LobU, which will bear clipping, and will form a serviceable and handsome fence. Walls are very ugly, nor are they nearly so good as hedges. A powerful wind will soon find its way over the highest wall, but a thick fence will break and distribute the current. If walls are used, they should be covered with climbing roses. An embank- 9 ment or terrace upon one side, and a nicely kept yew fence upon the other three, would have a very pleasing effect. In the Rosariiun every form in which the Rose is capable of being grown can be brought into practice, for instance, pillar or weeping roses can be used with good effect for the centres of circular or oval beds, or for dividing any portion of the ground. Festoons may likewise be formed for the same purpose, and for dividing the summer blooming from the perpetual roses, which should never be mixed promiscuously in a Rosarium. The summer roses having but one sea- son of flowering, would not harmonise well with the perpetuals when the former are gone out of bloom, A separate portion should therefore be appropriated solely to their growth. A temple in the centre of a Rosarium, when well designed and covered with climbing roses, has a good effect. Climbing roses can also be used as archways at the entrance to the Rosarium, and for arching walks, &c. Groups of dwarf roses can likewise be freely introduced, and with the best effect ; in fact with a well arranged design, no roses, of whatever habit or form of growth, need be excluded. Groups of dwarf roses are perhaps more telling and effective when well in- troduced about the pleasure ground; but here the beds should be of large size, and well brought out. Situation. This is rather a difficult subject to treat ; for every one who has a garden, whether it be in the smoky atmosphere of a manufacturing town, in wet, low, or high situations, must have roses, and indeed what flower-garden is complete without them ? 10 If there is a possibility of ichoice, select an open airy situation on ground rather elevated than others wise, in a pure free air, far away from all smoke, and remote from the shade and roots of large trees. In such a spot, with the help of anything like good soil, the Kose can be grown in the highest perfection, and the amateur may treat himself with every variety, whatever its habit of growth may be. But the pro- portion possessing these favoured localities is neces- sarily limited : where such localities are not to be had, a greater amount of care and attention will be required in cultivation ; and this wiU be increased in confined situations, and more particularly where there is much smoke. Nothing is so hurtful to the rose as smoke; this is apparent from the difficulty experienced in growing roses in the immediate neighbourhood of large manufacturing towns. But even here the amateur need not despair, for with a proper selection of sorts and a little extra attention they may be cultivated with considerable success. For such locali- ties, good, hardy, free growing sorts must be selected, freedom of growth with ample foliage being of equal importance to hardiness, and in many cases much more so. Very many of the most hardy roses are so diminu- tive in growth, that they are less suitable than several of the more tender kindswhich possess freedom of growth. It will be well in such situations to have the plants as low standards or dwarfs, and to avoid as much as possible growing them on tall standards. Many kinds do best when grown upon their own roots, or worked low upon the Manetti stock. 11 In all cases let the syringe be used freely through- out the growing season, keeping the foliage clean and in a healthy condition ; for upon this the chances of success mainly depend. Leaves to a plant are as lungs to an animal; so long as they are clogged with soot or filth of any description, proper respira- tion cannot go on, and the plant will soon decline and die. Apply the syringe morning and evening, and adopt every possible means to keep up a healthy growth. Syringing during the growing season will also assist in keeping down the green fly. In Part Second will be found a select list of varieties best adapted for growing in the neighbour- hood of towns. When, however, the more tender kinds are desired, recourse must b,e had to conserva- tories, greenhouses, or other glass structures: the plants may either be grown in pots, or planted out in prepared beds or borders. Low damp situations with a wet soil are also most unfavourable to roses, but by draining and slightly elevating the ground these evils may be overcome, and good roses can be grown; but to attempt to grow them in such situations without first of all providing efficient drainage is labour in vain, and nothing but disappointment can be the result. High situations, not too much exposed to high winds are favourable to the growth of roses, and the tender kinds are less injured by frost than in low grounds ; but the prevalence of high winds is hurtful as well as troublesome, and where these are common, screens of plantations or fences should be contrived, and no plants higher than half-standards grown. 12 Selecting Varieties. This is a most important matter, though, rarely attended to, and is, I doubt not, a more frequent cause of failure to the amateur than any other. The first thing the amateur generally does is to fix upon the varieties he wishes to grow, and for this purpose the catalogue is taken in hand, and those varieties described as being the most beautiful and perfect in form are chosen, without any regard to the habit or the hardiness of the kind, or the nature of the soil in which they are to be grown. Their destination may be a smoky atmosphere and a light porous soil, or perhaps a cold, wet, tenacious soil, in combination with a damp atmosphere. In many instances the sorts which are chosen are not at all suited to the soil or the climate, their constitution possibly being of the most tender kind, and such as should only be grown in the most favourable soils and situations ; the result is, as may be expected, that nearly the whole of them die, or, if they survive the operation of planting, fail to produce a bloom, and are quite gone before the next season comes round. The amateur of course is much disappointed, and wants to know "the reason why" his roses do not grow; and not unfrequently the nurseryman is blamed for having supplied poor plants, and has to take the whole brunt of the burden upon his own shoulders. Now if due precaution had been exercised in selecting varieties of good constitution, suited to the situation where they were to be grown, the result would have been totally different. There are hundreds of fine roses which will grow in almost any soil with 13 an ordinary amount of attention. It may be said that it is impossible to gain tbis information and to make a suitable selection from a printed catalogue with a voluminous list of names, a part only of wbicb are fully described, or sufficiently so to enable the amateur to make a satisfactory selection ■which would in erery instance suit his purpose. Being quite prepared to admit that there is some truth in this objection, it will be my object to remove, as far as possible, the difficulty by which the amateur is beset ; this was, in fact, the chief object I had in view when I first contemplated the publication of this little work. To accomplish this, I shall not only give a select list of sorts adapted to certain soils and climates, but selections for every purpose to which the rose may be appropriated, either in the flower-garden, conservatory, or forcing house ; likewise a descriptive list of every rose worthy of being placed in a collection, which has been- introduced up to the present time. Another important matter to be attended to in making selections, is to apportion the height of the stock upon which the plant is to be grown to the habit of the variety. We frequently see tender, dwarf, and weak growing sorts budded and grown upon tail standards three to four feet in height, and often more ; when so treated they always do badly, and, even if they live, look meagre and out of proportion. A standard plant, to look well, should form a head sufficiently large to appear in unison with the height of the stock ; or, in other words, the diameter of the head should equal, as nearly as may 14 be, the height of the stem. Let the -vigorous and free-growing kinds, therefore, be worked on full standards, and the moderate and dwarf kinds as half-standards, dwarf-standards, and dwarfs : it is an established fact, that, when adapted in this way, the weaker growing kinds do infinitely better than in any other. It is also necessary to determine in what form and to what purpose the plant is to be grown ; and to carry out this satisfactorily, it is important that such sorts are selected as will attain the desired object. For instance, it often happens that sorts are fixed upon to be grown as pillar or pole roses that will not attain a height of three feet in as many years; and the same may be said of wall roses, bedding , roses, or for whatever other purpose they are intended. Proper selections for the object in view must in every instance be made, and to do so it will be necessary that the habit and character of the variety be previously ascertained. Soil. The rose is capable of being grown in a variety of garden soils, but that is best which contains the greatest proportion of loam; and a deep stiff loam is what roses most delight in. The worst of all is the black porous soil usually met with in town gardens, and which contains a superabundance of humus or decomposed organic matter; here the Rose will rarely thrive without a liberal admixture of stiff loam, or even clay. Sharp gravelly, and light sandy soils are also bad for roses. In many localities, and especially by the sea side (where the latter usually prevail), it is often a difficult matter to 15 grow any but the most robust and free growing sorts. Rich peat soils are not at all unfavourable ; and good roses may be grown in boggy soils, pro- vided they are thoroughly drained. There is however no description of soil to equal a deep rich loam, rather retentive than otherwise, having somewhat of ■ a greasy tendency; and if such is well drained, there will be little or no difficulty in growing the most choice and delicate roses. As, however, all cannot possibly possess these advantages, we must suit our roses to the soil, and our soil to the roses as best we can ; and so happy and ready is the Rose to yield to our will, and to become attached to our soil and locality, that little difficulty will be experienced in improving what Nature has given us to its advantage. I will now make a few observations on the pre- paring of soils. Commencing with loamy soils, — the first thing to look to in this, as well as all others, is to see that it is thoroughly drained. This matter is of so vast an importance to the cultivation of plants of every description, and now so generally acknow- ledged and understood, that few gardens or new groimds are now made without this first and all- important work being well carried out ; therefore it is necessary to be done in cases where it has been previously neglected. After being assured that the drainage of the soil is perfect, let the ground intended for the Rosary be trenched i,o the depth of two feet, and thrown up into ridges as the operation proceeds. If this is per- formed in the autumn, a few frosts and drying winds during winter will soon make the stiffest soil friable 16 and in good working condition; when it has become dry, mellow, and pulverised, let it be levelled down and formed into beds, or otherwise properly arranged for the reception of the plants. Good rotten manure will then be all that will be required to be added, and of this let a good thick dressing be well incor- porated with the soil where the plants are to be planted. With ordinary black garden soils spoken of as prevalent in town gardens, mix the stiffest loam that can be procured, and less of stable manure, for this latter will tend to lighten the soU which we want to make as stiff as possible. If the loam has 'a ten- dency to clay, it will be all the better; and instead of stable manure let liquid manures be used during the growing season. This kind of soil should be trodden as firm as possible, and the plants would be greatly benefited by a mulching of manure placed upon the surface. Gravelly soils will require to be loosened to the depth, if possible, of eighteen inches, but should the subsoil be of a very gravelly nature it should not be brought to the surface ; this description of soil soon eats away or exhausts a quantity of manure, hence the term "a hungry soil:" liberal dressings must be given, and those which are the most lasting and cooling are best, such as cow dung and pig dung. A mixture also of stiff loam and decayed vegetable matter of any kind will greatly improve them. Sandy soil will require somewhat similar treat- ment as the above, but if very light and shallow, will demand a greater abundance of loam, or clay would 17 be preferable. They would also be greatly benefited by having the manure placed upon the surface, which would prevent excessive evaporation during hot weather. Whatever manure is mixed with the soil should be well decayed, and if possible use cow dung or night-soil. The soil should be loosened to the depth of eighteen inches, and the loam or clay mixed with it to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches ; afterwards make it as firm as possible. Peat and bog soils are both much improved by an admixture of loam. Trench as recommended for loamy soils. Burnt clay may be here used with the greatest advantage. Indeed it is serviceable to every description of soU, and perhaps few materials improve old worn out soils so much as burnt earth, wood ashes, and wood charcoal. In low, damp situations it will be well, in pre- paring the ground, to elevate the soil in the beds six or eight inches above the surface level. In the bottom of the beds, a layer of old mortar and brick- bats, placed a few inches in thickness, would tend to keep the soil drier, and consequently less liable to become sodden. In preparing for the Tea-scented and China Roses to be grown upon their own roots, a little more care and forethought will be necessary, not only in the preparation of the soil, but also in the situation to be chosen. A warm south border in front of a greenhouse, vinery, or wall, is to be preferred. If such cannot be had^ and there be no alternative but allowing them to take a place with other rose beds upon the lawn or in the Rosary, let there be at least 18 six or eight inches of drainage in the bottom of the beds, consisting of any rubble at hand. In stiff •loamy soils use a liberal quantity of sand and leaf mould, and let the soil, in every instance where roses are to be grown upon their own roots, whether Tea-scented, Hybrid Perpetual, Bourbon, or other- wise, be made more friable and less retentive by a liberal admixture of leaf mould, sand, and well rotted manure. Manure. I have found, after repeated trials for some years, that pig dung is the best of all manures for roses; next night-soil, cow dung, and horse dung; these should stand in a heap from one to three months, but not sufficiently long to become ex- hausted of their ammonia and salts. Pig dung should be put on the ground during winter or early spring, and forked in at once. In using night-soil, mis with burnt earth, sand, charcoal dust, or other dry substances. Apply a small portion of the mixture to each plant or bed during winter, and let it be forked in at once. Soot is a good manure, especially for the Tea-scented and- other roses upon their own roots, so are wood ashes and charcoal. Bone dust, or half-inch bones, form an excellent and most lasting manure : a liberal mixture with the soil, in preparing beds for the Tea-scented, China, or other kinds upon their own roots, is most bene- ficial. Guano and super-phosphate of lime are both good manures for roses, but require to be used cautiously : if too freely applied, the result will be gross wood and foliage to the injury and sacrifice of 19 the bloom. Perhaps the better way to apply them is in a liquid state, and then, when judiciously employed, they are most beneficial, particularly upon light, sandy, and gravelly soUs. Liquid manures of all kinds should be used in the spring when the plants are in a growing state, and again to the perpetuals after the first bloom is over. The drainage firom dung heaps and stables is most efficacious, and good liquid manure may be made with either horse, cow, sheep, or pig dung. Planting. All kinds of roses which are worked upon the Briar or other stocks, may be planted in the autumn, say fi-om the beginning of October to the end of December; but where grounds cannot be so early prepared, or the weather is too wet for planting at that season, it is better to defer it until February. In very many instances it will be found absolutely necessary to do so, and this delay will be far preferable to planting when the ground is at all wet, or not otherwise in proper condition to receive the plants. I believe that with proper management equally good results are obtained in both instances, though some prefer the autumn, and others the spring ; but by no means let it be deferred later than the middle of March with the hardier and worked kinds, otherwise many failures and much weak growth will be the result, for no plant suffers more from late planting than the Rose. The Tea-scented and other tender kinds should not be planted out before the end of March. c 2 20 Plants upon their own roots, whether Tea-scented, China, Hybrid Perpetual, or Bourbon, should never be planted out before April. Itisnot unfrequently the custom with many amateurs to plant all their roses, whether worked plants or otherwise, at the same time ; the result is that those upon their own roots, if planted in the autumn or during winter, are almost sure to perish before spring. As soon as these latter are received, let them be placed in a cold frame, or plunged underneath a north wall or hedge, where they can be screened and protected during the more severe weather. It may not be out of place here to mention that all who are about to purchase plants should do so as early as possible in the autumn : even if the plants are not required for planting till the spring, it will nevertheless be better and indeed necessary to do so in order to secure good plants ; for if deferred until the spring, the chances are that many of the newest and best kinds have been sold out, and as a matter of course the best plants have been selected for the earliest orders. As soon as the plants are received jfrom the nursery, let the roots be examined and all injured portions and sucker roots removed ; also shorten the long fibrous roots ; by no means allow the roots to become dry, but have them put into the ground as quickly as possible, and there let them remain until required for planting. AH the Tea-scented, as well as the more tender varieties of the Noisette, should be put in beneath a wall where they can be pro- tected by hanging a few mats before them during 21 severe frosty weather ; here they can remain until all frost is over, say till the beginning or end of March, when they can be planted out wherever required. AU hardy sorts may of course be planted out on the first favourable opportunity that offers after the ground is prepared. Endeavour to choose a fine day ; let the soil be sufficiently, though not too dry, this will be indicated by its being moist without sticking to the spade or shoe. Prepare the soil as previously recommended, then make the holes to receive the plants sufficiently large that the roots may be spread evenly and to their full extent; but on no account allow those which are budded upon the Briar stock to be planted too deep. Level the whole of the soil in, shaking the plant during the operation so that the soil may pass well amongst the roots ; then tread the mould firmly, holding the plant in one hand to prevent it from sinking deeper into the soil. Dwarf Roses which have been budded upon the Manetti, Celine, or Boursault stocks, will require to be planted deeper than is usual or well to do with sorts upon the Dog Rose or common Briar; they should, in fact, be planted so that the collar of the bud is entirely beneath the soil ; and they will not succeed perfectly if this is not carefully attended to. The plants which are grown upon the Manetti stock are either budded or grafted quite low, to allow of their being planted so that the union of the bud with the stock may be readily covered. Let all standard roses which are two feet in height and upwards, be securely 22 fastened to stakes, to prevent their being disturbed by the wind. Pruning. This operation will require to be per- formed during February, March, and April. At the time of pruning it is necessary to have in view the proper formation of the tree, so that when grown and in bloom it may assume the form desired. When fully grown it should appear equal on every side, somewhat conical, but wider at its base, so that when viewed from different positions it should present an uniform appearance, and when in bloom every flower should be seen, and not hidden by leaves or shoots growing before them ; neither should the tree be at all crowded, but each shoot should stand out at equal .and regular distances. I know it will be found somewhat difficult to obtain a proper and uniform shape with all kinds; there are some which will, in spite of all pruning, grow as close in the head as a besom, others will start off anyhow, one shoot frequently taking the lead, and if allowed will grow to such an extent as to entirely rob all other parts of the tree, the plant soon becoming a one-sided rambling-looking object. To avoid this, examine at pruning time all such trees as are liable to grow into this form, and cut out entirely any shoots which are observed to be gross and over robust. All shoots left after pruning should be as nearly equal in size as possible, this will ensure uni- formity of growth upon all sides. If however, as is sometimes the case, a vigorous and gross shoot should appear which cannot well be dispensed with, it should be stopped when it has grown six or eight 23 inclies ; the lateral shoots afterwards produced may- be again stopped when two or three inches in length. The erect-growing kinds are again somewhat difficult to bring into shape, as no pruning will pre- vent their growing into a close compact head, with the flowers all at the top of the tree, so that they cannot be seen on a moderately tall standard : such sorts are best grown as low bushes, or as standards of medium height. During the growing season, when the shoots have become sufficiently hardened to bend without breaking, let the lower shoots be brought down and tied to small wooden or iron hoops placed underneath the head of the tree, and in like manner bring the middle and upper shoots down. After this has been practised for about two seasons, the plant will have assumed a proper shape, and then can easily be kept so, and that without the assistance of the hoop or further tying. Before commencing to prune, it is necessary to observe the habit of the plant, whether it be a vigor- ous, moderate, or dwarf growing variety; also to determine what kinds are required for exhibition purposes, as these will want somewhat more careful pruning and thinning. Carefully thin out from the head of the plant, by clearing away all small and crowded branches, likewise all gross unripe shoots, leaving such only as are composed of firm and well ripened wood, and these at regular and equal dis- tances. Prune down according to the strength of the shoot and habit of the variety, in some cases to two or three inches, in others, where the habit is vigor- ous, one foot or even eighteen inches will not be 24 too long for a shoot to be left ; but as this will de- pend upon the habit of the variety, and the shoot to be pruned, no absolute rule can be given. In shortening the shoots cut close to an eye, observing, where practicable, to leave well swollen plump buds, which invariably produce the finest blooms ; likewise secure those having an outward tendency, and point- ing in a direction proper for the handsome formation of the plant. Commence with the most hardy sorts, such as the French, Moss, Alba, Provence, Damask, and Austrian roses. These for the most part have dormant looking buds, and being less active than others, take a longer time to develops them, and being perfectly hardy, are not so liable to be injured by spring frosts should they happen to start prematurely into growth. With few exceptions, the whole of the varieties in the above five classes are of uniform and moderate growth, and many of the Moss, as well as the French, are dwarf in habit, producing short- jointed firm wood, with rather dormant looking eyes. All such sorts will require what is termed " close pruning," that is, the shoots of the previous year's growth being cut down to within an inch or two of the old, or two years' wood, leaving only two or three eyes at the base of the previous year's shoot ; these wUl throw out one, two, or three shoots, with trusses or single blooms at the end of each. To form a conical-shaped plant, prune the centre shoots rather closer than the outer and lower ones, the centre will then grow up in advance of the sides, and give the plant a pyramidal shape. The vigorous 25 growers in these classes will require a moderate pruning, say for the stronger shoots six inches, and for the weaker ones four inches. The Hybrid China and Hybrid Bourbons are mostly very vigorous growers, and require more care in pruning than most sorts. An acquaintance with the varieties is necessary to enable the operator to prune these successfully. Many of the most vigor- ous often produce shoots six and seven feet long in a season, which if pruned close, as recommended for the French and others, would not produce a single flower. These vigorous growers must be well thinned, and the strongest shoots left two feet in length and upwards, and the weak ones from one foot to eighteen inches. There are some sorts, such as Blairii, Triomphe de Bay&ux, Brennus, Fulgens, and a few others, in which the vigorous shoots may be left nearly their full length; and to make them bloom abundantly this is often necessary. For the moderate growers in these two classes, six inches to one foot will be about the average length. It will be found that after long pruning has been repeated several years, that the plants will have become somewhat exhausted ; in fact many of the shoots which at first grew five or six feet, will now be often less than eighteen inches ; consequently to give the plant more strength, it will require to be pruned down somewhat closer than was first recom- mended. In the course of years the plants which have undergone the long pruning system will possibly become leggy, overgrown, and somewhat unsightly in appearance. It will therefore be found necessary, 26 when such is the case, to cut them back hard, so as to form entirely new wood and better shaped heads. Cut into the old wood as far back as may be thought necessary, new eyes will soon form, even in wood five or sis years old, provided the plant is in good health ; by this means well furnished plants with young wood are reproduced. The Austrian Briar Eoses require a system of pruning peculiar to themselves ; if pruned as recom- mended for moderate or close pruning, they will produce but few if any blooms. Therefore such as are required to bloom must be left unpruned, with the exception of a little thinning, and merely the ends of the shoots being taken off. This treatment may be continued from year to year withthe Harrisonu and a few others, but the Persian Yellow to be kept in vigorous health must be pruned down hard every alternate year,, otherwise it will soon become ex- hausted. When this is done, of course no blooms are produced until the following season; it is well, therefore, to grow several plants of this kind, pruning a few each year. Like other roses that are required to form fine and handsome heads, they must be shortened down to four or five buds the first season of planting. The Hybrid Perpetual, Damask Perpetual, Per- petual Moss, and Bourbon Roses may be pruned from the beginning to the end of March. By pruning a few at the beginning and others towards the latter end of the month, the blooming season will be prolonged; and the same result may be obtained by adopting this system with the summer blooming 27 as well as all other kinds. The varieties of Hybrid Perpetual Roses are so numerous, that there will naturally be found a very great difference in their habit of growth, some being quite dwarf, others robust, and a few even sufficiently vigorous to form pillar or pole roses. The dwarf, as well as the more moderate growers, will require to be pruned down to two or three eyes, the weak and crowded shoots to be taken out. The robust will require the same thinning out of superfluous wood, while the strong shoots must be pruned down to six or eight inches in length, and the smaller ones to four or five. As all perpetual roses produce blooms upon every, or nearly every shoot, it will be no difficult matter to prune these so as to have a continuous show of blooms ; but to have flowers of good size and quality, as well as to keep the plant in proper form, some Kttle judgment must be exercised. The Damask Perpetual and Perpetual Moss may be pruned as recommended for the Hybrid Perpetuals. The Tea-scented, China, and Noisette are the last sorts to be pruiied, and should not be commenced before the end of March or beginning of April. Few if any of these require close pruning. The Tea-scented and China especially should not be pruned too hard ; thin out the small weak wood, and shorten the other shoots one half, and in some instances even less. The vigorous growing Noisettes require long pruning, the strongest shoots being left even longer than recommended for the vigorous growing Bourbons. The Cloth of Gold Rose belonging to this section, is one of the most shy blooming of all, and yet one 28 of the most beautiM. Its situation when intended to be grown out of doors should be against a south wall, it will then, if grown freely, bloom after the first year or two ; yery little pruning, however, is required, the secret of making it bloom is to get it to grow freely, and for this ample space must be given. When it has become established, and is making vigorous growth, it will bloom both in summer and autumn : it must, however, be manured highly every year, and no more pruning given than will suffice to keep the plant in a weU trained form. I have had standard plants of this rose of unusually large size, and with nearly a hundred expanded blooms at one time; but of late years the severe winters have somewhat discouraged any attempt at growing it otherwise than^ against a south wall or in the conservatory. Banksian Eoses produce their blooms upon the small, weak, one and two years old wood, but rarely imtil the plant has been established some three or four years, and their vigorous growth has become somewhat exhausted. Whatever pruning is necessary should be performed after the plant has bloomed, which is generally towards the end of May or beginning of June. Shorten the long vigorous shoots one-third or less, and secure all the small, short-jointed, and thoroughly mature wood; from these blooms will be produced the following season. Disbudding. Next to pruning, disbudding must be considered the most important operation to be performed. After the shoot-buds are fairly started, 29 look through the plant, and rub off or cut out any which are likely to take a wrong direction, likewise thin out wherever they are too much crowded. It wiU be found in some instances that at least one- third of the shoots may be dispensed with, which if allowed to grow would crowd the plant with small useless wood. By lessening these, such as remain will consequently be much strengthened, producing finer blooms, and the plant will assume a well regulated form, requiring much less attention at pruning time. Young plants require in all instances to be cut down the first year to within a few inches of the insertion of the bud, leaving from four to six eyes, according to circumstances. This must be done to aU alike the first year of planting. I mention this more particularly, because I have repeatedly seen one-year old roses planted and allowed to grow without receiving any shortening or pruning what- ever. The proper time to cut them back is early in spring, as soon as the sap rises and the buds are observed to be swelKng. When the shoots are very long, it will often be necessary to shorten them a little at the time of planting, so as to prevent them fi-om being blown about by the wind. But never allow them to be pruned closely down when newly planted. Protecting. Nearly the whole of the Tea-scented, China, and Noisette Roses will require protection during winter. Some of the most hardy will not require it unless the weather is very severe. The 30 best and surest method to adopt with all the tenderest budded roses grown on standards, is to have them taken up about November and planted underneath a south wall ; here they can be readily and easily protected during severe frost. The plants being put in closely together, a few mats nailed to the wall will suffice to cover them. The mats need only to be put on during severe frost, but should it continue any length of time, an extra covering should be provided with additional mats or straw. For the tender sorts upon their own roots, which need not be taken up, a good protection is afforded by half-decayed leaves placed two or three inches thick upon the surface of the beds. Moss may be used instead of leaves, but should be pegged down or otherwise secured, to prevent the wind from blowing it away. A few fern branches will be sufficient protection for the head, as the loss of the top part of the plant is not of much importance; provided the roots and the lower part or crown are preserved, there will generally be found a sufficient number of young shoots emitted from below. Very many of the most tender roses which were growing upon their own roots, or budded quite low, were saved during the very severe winter of 1860 and 1861, and their preservation can be attributed to no other cause than the protection which was afforded to their roots and the lower part of the plant by a thick coating of snow which lay upon the ground nearly the whole of the winter. I saved a great portion of my roses which were grown in this form, or budded quite low upon the Manetti stock, whereas 31 others which were budded five or six inches in height, being above the level of the snow, were totally killed. Insects. There are very many insects which are injurious and destructive to the Rose, but none more so than the Green Rose Chafer or Golden Rose Beetle, and the Antler Rose Sawfly, both of which feed upon the young leaves, shoots, and buds. In the Book of the Garden we have the following excellent description of these two insects :—" The Green Rose Chafer or Gold Rose Beetle {Cetonia aurata, — Scardbceus auratus of some entomologists) is one of our largest and most beautiful beetles, easily recognised by its bright green colour ; sometimes reflecting a rich golden or copper tint. The wings are very long, of a brownish colour, folded under the horny wing cases, which have a few white lines placed transversely, resembling cracks, and scattered over them. On the under side they are of a fine copper tint, sometimes inclining to rose colour. The horns are short, the scutel forming an elongated triangle. They are readily found enveloped in the petals of the rose, and from their colour and size, cannot be easily overlooked. The havoc they make in the Parisian rose-gardens is fearful, compared with what we experience in Britain. Le Ver Blanc, as they are there called, is the greatest enemy the French rose growers have to contend with. Their habits in many respects resemble those of the Cockchafer. We know of no means more likely to reduce the numbers of these rose-chafers than by 32 capturing them in their beetle state, which, from their large size and conspicuous colours is no difficult matter. " The Antler Rose Sawfly (Oladins difformis pansa) . Several species of Cladius attack the rose in their larva state, devouring not only the foliage but often the pith also. Their attacks on the foliage are first observed in the shape of innumerable small perfora- tions, which daily increase, portions of the margins being also devoured. The cause of this is only discovered by turning up the underside of the leaf. In size they scarcely exceed half-an-inch, nearly cylindrical, tapering a little towards the tail. Their colour is bright green, covered with short erect hairs, with a darkish line down the back, and one much darker on each side ; the head is brownish and horny, with two small black dots on the sides. It is difficult to point out any remedy except what has so often been recommended for caterpillars in general, viz., dusting the plants with powdered hellebore or with snuff, watering with lime or soot-water, shaking the branches suddenly and catching the enemy on a cloth spread below. " Another destructive insect is the Sawfly of the Rose (Selandria Ethiops) . During the month of June, the leaves of the rose trees are often found assuming a withered brown colour, as if scorched by fire. The cause of this may be traced, by the aid of a microscope, to the destructive effects of this insect. The upper cuticle of the leaf will be found nearly eaten away, while the under side remains perfectly entire. A closer examination will show the enemy 33 itself, in colour so nearly resembling the foliage that its detection by the naked eye is almost impossible. In its larva state it is nearly half-an-inch long, of a cylindrical form, with a dark line down the middle , of the back. The head is orange coloured, with a small black spot on each side. The larvae change their skins several times before arriving at their full size, and then descend into the earth, where they form elliptical cells, highly polished on the inside, in which they pass the winter, and in which they become transformed, first into the pupa state and afterwards, towards spring, into perfect insects. Syringing the roses with water in which hot lime and soot have been steeped, is one of the best remedies for the suppression of all tender skinned insects on roses and other plants." The Rose Aphis {Aphis rosce) is a great pest amongst roses, and especially in situations where air cannot circulate freely amongst the plants ; in such confined places much difficulty is often ex- perienced in keeping these troublesome insects under, and generally the weakest and most delicate sorts are those worst attacked. Numerous recipes are given for the destruction of these aphides, but whatever means are adopted should be taken in time, and before the plants get smothered with them. I have found the following remedy answer in every instance where applied. To one pound of tobacco and two pounds of soft soap add six quarts of boiling water; let this stand a short time, then strain through a piece of coarse canvas; to the filtered liquor add nine or ten gallons of water, and with 34 this diluted fluid syringe the plants infested, or otherwise dip the branches into it, wetting the whole of the foliage ; if necessary repeat the operation two or three times, always syringing the plants over afterwards with clean water. A decoction of quassia is frequently used, in the proportion of one ounce of the chips to one quart of water. Fowler's Insecticide is also an effectual remedy for destroying the Green or Brown Aphis. Fumigating with tobacco is per- haps the best and most effectual way of destroying them where appliances can be had so as to confine the smoke. In hothouses and greenhouses this is readily done, and is the best means that can be adopted. Aphis Vastator. — This, the rose cultivator's friend, should never be destroyed ; it feeds upon and destroys all other aphides, and is a most valuable ally for such purposes. The ladybirds are also useM in destroying these small insects, so are many kinds of birds, and none more so than the so-called mischievous tomtit and sparrow. The sparrows are especially valuable ; not only do they feed upon the aphides, but the rose-chafer and other enemies to the Rose. I have often watched their early morning avocations amongst the roses ; a dozen or two sparrows will clear some thousands of insects during the day, and woe be to the rose-chafer that comes within their sight. Diseases. — Mildew. This fungus is themost trouble- some of all diseases to which the Rose is subject, and of late years has been much more prevalent than 35 formerly. The Me Mr. Knight in writing upon it says, " The secondary and immediate cause of this disease has long appeared to rbe to be the want of sufficient moisture from the soil, and excess of humidity in the air, particularly if the plants be exposed to a temperature below that to which they have been accustomed. If damp and cloudy weather in July succeeded that which is warm and bright, without the intervention of sufficient rain to moisten the ground to some depth, the crop is generally much injured by mildew." There can be no doubt as to the truth of these observations, but latterly this disease appears to have become more prevalent, and seems to baffle all our skill even to ward it off, much more to eradicate it. Some sorts of roses are much more liable to it than others, and some are even so badly affected by it that it is next to impossible to keep them in health and free from it throughout the season. A good remedy is flour of sulphur. This should be applied the very moment the least sign of the disease makes its appearance, otherwise it will not arrest its progress. The best instrument for apply- ing it is the sulphurator ; this excellent little machine will distribute it evenly throughout every part of the plant, which it is almost impossible to do with a dredger. If the dredger is used, syringe the plants over with a little water, and apply it to every part affected. The sulphur should not be applied to the young foliage whilst the sun is powerful, or it will sometimes be injurious ; no harm will result from applying it in the evening : it may remain on for a 36 day or two, when it should be syringed off. Where the sulphur has failed to arrest its progress, Fowler's Insecticide has been applied, and with wonderfully good effect. The quantity used has been from two and a half to three ounces to the gallon of water. The plants affected are syringed or well wetted with the mixture, and if the shoots are at all tender they must be syringed over with clear water in a few hours afterwards. One or two applications, in most instances, will be sufficient, but when the disease has been allowed to establish itself, it must be applied weekly until it is cured. Various nostrums are fre- quently advertised and recommended for this disease, but I should advise all to be cautious what they apply to their roses, or the remedy will oftentimes prove worse than the disease. Red Fungus — or rust, as it is sometimes called, seldom appears before August, or until the wood and foliage are pretty well matured; its conse- quence, therefore, at this season is not of much importance, nor is the damage at all serious. It should, however, be prevented by the application of sulphur, as recommended for the mildew; or fresh slacked lime to the parts affected will in some in- stances destroy it. Green centres. These must be considered a disease, though prevalent only among certain sorts of roses. Its cause may be attributed to too much manure, or the use of it in a raw or green state. This should be avoided with all kinds subject to this disease, and where manure is applied let it be thoroughly decayed. 37 Stocks. Roses are grown upon several varieties of stocks ; those most in use are the Wild Dog Rose, Manetti, Gdlinej and the Black Boursault. The Dog Rose procured from hedgerows and woods is the only suitable kind upon which standard or half standard roses can be grown. For dwarfs, or dwarf standards, the Manetti and Celine are preferable, especially for light soils. Stocks for budding should be procured in the autumn, the roots pruned close, and the stem shortened to the height required. Standards will require to be left three to four feet in length, half standards two to three feet, and dwarfs six to eighteen inches. These should be planted out in rows three feet apart. The following summer they will be fit for budding. The Manetti is a vigorous variety of Hybrid China Rose, introduced nearly thirty years ago from Italy, by Mr. Rivers. For dwarf roses this stock is superior to all others ; it is alike suitable for stiff, as for light soils. In many light shallow soils, where the Dog Rose will scarcely live, this succeeds admirably. It is very hardy and enduring, and will last as long as, or perhaps longer than, any other. It requires, however, somewhat different treatment to other stocks, both as regards its preparation before as well as after budding. My practice is to prepare the cuttings in the autumn, say from nine to twelve inches in length, taking out all the eyes excepting three at the top of the cutting ; they are then planted six to eight inches deep, here they remain until the following autumn, when they are taken up and planted out into rows, from eighteen inches to two feet apart. 38 The following summer they will be fit for budding; this is done by inserting a bud in the stem which formed the cutting an inch below the surface, the soil .being previously cleared away to enable the operation to be performed. The following spring, when the bud shows signs of starting in growth, cut down the upper part of the stock to within an inch of the bud ; by the end of the summer they will have formed fine large plants. When the plants are taken up to be transplanted into the rosary, it will be neces- sary to plant them quite over the collar of the bud, so that the union of the stock and bud is quite covered ; the plants being budded so very low, there will be little difficulty in planting them thus. This stock, be it observed, is not adapted to stan- dards or half standards, or in fact to any other than dwarfs treated as described above. There are few roses which refuse to grow upon it. Since the introduction of this stock, roses upon their own roots (excepting the Tea-scented and China) have not been so much sought after, for the reason, that to have a bed of roses upon their own roots, well filled and in good blooming condition, requires two, if not three years before it can be accomplished, whereas, with the same sorts budded upon the Manetti stock, a fine bed can be obtained the first year of planting, with perhaps double the quantity of bloom that would ever be produced by plants grown upon their own roots. For pot culture this is also a valuable stock, it is also the best to use for grafting purposes. For PUlar Koses it is remarkably well adapted. Strong growing kinds will often grow fi:om six to eight feet 39 the first season, and will ultimately make the finest plants possible. I have some examples of pillar roses, both summer and perpetual, which are eight to ten feet in height, and beautifully furnished from the bottom upwards. The Persian Yellow and Har- risonii may be instanced as two summer roses, forming large and beautiful pillar roses, resembling more the size of young apple trees than roses. I am so satisfied of the superior merits of this stock over all others, that I grow annually upwards of 100,000; and this opinion is not based upon my own experience in this locality, so much as on the opinion of others in various parts of England, Scotland, and Ireland, wherever plants have been distributed. The Celine is a variety of the Hybrid Bourbon rose, it is very robust in habit, and forms a most excellent stock for many kinds of roses, but more especially for Noisettes and Bourbons. The Cloth of Gold grows and blooms more freely upon this than upon any other stock with which I am acquainted. The Black Boursault is sometimes used for the Tea-scented and a few other sorts ; it is, however, not so lasting, nor so good as either of the preceding. It is, perhaps, better suited for light than heavy soils, where it may possibly answer for many purposes. The cultivated Briar Stock— this is the wild Dog Rose, raised either fi:-om seed or cuttings, the latter perhaps are preferable ; seedlings are objectionable on account of their propensity for spawning or throwing up suckers from the root. There are some who advocate the use of this stock in preference to all others for dwarf roses, it has been 40 in use here for very many years, and has been found useful for working some of the Tea-scented and Noisette Roses, but as a stock for general use, it is not in any way equal to the Manetti. Propagation. Roses are propagated by budding grafting, cuttings, layering, and by suckers (either or all of these modes are in practice for the purpose of increasing a given variety) ; and by seed to obtain new varieties. Budding. This is by far the most ready and easy system by which the. Rose can be propagated, and is that most generally- practised. It offers many advan- tages over other modes of propagating, as by its adoption a weak kind is increased in vigour, by bringing it to grow upon a stock which is more hardy and more vigorous in habit. By adopting this mode of propagating, roses are wrought into a variety of forms which otherwise could not be done. The mode of operation is so simple, and has been so often described that a few words will suffice by way of explanation. The usual time for budding is July and August, but the proper time to be chosen must be determined by the state of the scion, as- well as the stock which is to be budded. In nO case will it answer to bud until the sap flows freely both in the stock and the plant from whence the buds are to be taken. The scion must be firm and well ripened, otherwise the buds are apt to perish. If the bark does not rise freely on the stock, the operation should be deferred for a few days, or until the sap is induced to flow, which may be hastened by giving a few copious waterings. The buds 41 should be taken from ripe shoots of the current year; the fact of the plant being in bloom will generally indicate that the wood is ripe and thoroughly matured. In taking off the leaves, let a portion of the leaf-stalk be left at the base of the eye, it will be an assistance when inserting the bud, and will help to shade and protect the bud after it is inserted. As soon as possible after the incision is made in the stock, the bud (which must be pre- viously cut and the wood taken out) should be inserted, and immediately bound up with cotton or matting, so as to exclude the air and wet until the bark is united. In about three weeks the matting or cotton will require to be loosened, and in a few weeks afterwards may be taken entirely off. A few inches should be taken off the end of the briar which has been budded ; the sap will consequently flow more directly to the bud at the base of the shoot. Grafting. Early in spring is the usual time for grafting roses ; but with the assistance of propagating pits or houses where artificial heat can be obtained, this operation can be performed at various seasons of the year, provided the stock and the scion are both in proper condition. The stock to be grafted should be rather in advance of the scion, and taken when the sap is in active motion. The scion should' consist of hard, well ripened wood, and not too far advanced. Any of the modes of grafting usually practised, such as whip=-grafting, saddle-grafting, or cleft-grafting, may be adopted. Whip or tongue- grafting is the most simple and the most expeditious, and will answer every purpose. 43 The Manetti is the best of all stocks in use for grafting. Young stocks may be taken up in No- vember or December, potted, and placed in a frame where a gentle bottom heat is obtained ; in a few weeks they will be ready for grafting. After they are grafted let them be plunged in the same bottom heat as before, and here they should be kept rather close, and shaded when necessary, until the grafts have fairly taken and the plants have commenced growing; they may then receive a little air, or be removed to a cooler house or frame. Avoid too high a temperature; the rose, being very impatient of heat, should always be forced steadily. A temperature of 60° to 70° by day, and 50° or 55° by night should not be exceeded. When watering do not wet the graft, nor allow too much moisture to settle near to the junction of the graft; to prevent this, a little clay or wax may be placed around the junction. With a little attention to these minor matters a good practitioner will be as successfiil with this mode of propogating as with the more simple and generally practised system of budding. I have not spoken of grafting roses out of doors, nor do I recommend the practice; the chances of success are so uncertain that it rarely answers to risk them, especially when we have a more safe and certain method in the one described above. Layering. This mode of propagting may be ap- plied to most of the free growing roses, but it is only practised with sorts which are required to be grown upon their own roots, and which do not strike freely 43 from cuttings; for instance, the Old and other Moss, the Provence, and Austrian Roses, &c. To obtain proper shoots for layering, the plant should be cut down to the surface of the ground every year, young shoots will then be produced; these should be layered about June or July, or as soon as the shoots become suflElciently hardened to bend without break- ing. An incision must be made at an eye upon the side of the shoot, and gently twisted so that the incision be kept open. The shoot should then be secured in its position by a peg, and covered with earth to the depth of three or four inches. In the following spring, most of these will have formed roots, and may then be taken off and planted out ; those not rooted must remain down another season. Cuttings. With the exception of the Moss, Austrian, and a few other varieties, nearly all may be struck from cuttings ; and to obtain plants upon their own roots, this is the most expeditious and best system. This mode of propagating roses may be practised throughout spring, summer, and autumn, but the shoot which is to form the cutting should in all instances be matured and well ripened. The cuttings should be made from three to four inches in length, and if a small portion of the old wood can be taken off with it, so as to form a heel, the cutting will strike more freely. The two or three upper leaves should be allowed to remain on the cutting until they fall off, when they should be removed to prevent their damping. Take five or six-inch pots and fill with a compost of friable loam, leaf mould, and sand, pressing it 44 moderately firm ; plant with a small pin from six to eight cuttings evenly round the sides of the pot, ■making the soil firm around them, then water with a fine rose to settle the soil. Place the pots at once into a frame with a gentle bottom-heat, where they can be kept close and constantly shaded from the sun. Sprinkle them over with a fine rose, or syringe daily for the first week or nine days.- In about three or four weeks the cuttings will have rooted, when they should be potted singly into three-inch pots, and again placed in a frame with a gentle bottom-heat ; here they should remain for nine days or a fortnight, being shaded and watered as required. When rooted round their pots, they should be removed into a cold fi-ame to harden previous to being placed out of doors. Many hardy kinds, Such as the Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons, &c., may be struck out of doors, under hand-glasses. About the end of September or beginning of October, prepare a border, with light soil, upon the north side of a hedge or wall; let the cuttings be made five or six inches in length, choosing firm well-ripened wood, taken off with a small portion of old wood to form a heel ; without this the cuttings will not strike so readily. Put the cuttings in thickly, pressing them firm into the soil ; well water, and place over them small hand or cap glasses; these must remain on until the cuttings are struck in the spring. An occasional watering with clear lime water should be given, this will destroy the worms, which are often troublesome and disturb the cuttings. In the spring, when the cuttings are 45 found to be rooted, take them up and pot singly into small pots, put tliem into a cold frame where they can be shaded from the sun, until sufficiently hardened to be planted out of doors. Some of the hardy, vigorous-growing summer roses will strike if planted in a shady border, without the assistance of band glasses; but when this is done, the cuttings require to be made nine to twelve inches in length, and planted at least six to eight inches deep, and the soil trodden firmly to them. Suckers. This mode of propagating is practised but seldom, and then only with a few kinds, such as the Scotch and Austrian roses. The former emit suckers freely, which are taken off and planted out during the spring or autumn ; these suckers have generally some small fibrous roots attached. By Seed. The object in raising roses from seed is to obtain new varieties. Although somewhat un- certain as to the result, it is, nevertheless, a very pleasant and interesting occupation. There has long been an idea prevalent that good varieties of roses cannot be raised from seed in England, and that we must go to warmer climates for anything of sterling merit. This, however, is not entirely so, as some excellent varieties recently raised in this country will testify. The tender varieties, however, seldom if ever mature seed in our climate, but even the ripening of seed can be accomplished artificially ; and, with the assistance of glass and hot water, we may reckon our advantages equal to those in the south of France or Italy. The seed pods should become thoroughly ripe upon the tree before they 46 are gathered. When taken off, place each sort separately into small pots, mixing with them fine sand. They may be stored away in this manner until February, care being taken to keep them out of the way of mice, which will very soon destroy the lot, if the opportunity is given them. Early in February take them out and break up the pods, and rub the whole until the seeds are all separated ; they may then be sown in shallow pans, pots, or boxes, using light soil with a liberal admixture of sand," and cover with the same to the depth of an inch. Place them in a frame having a northern aspect, or otherwise in a shady or sheltered spot, where an uniform temperature and moisture can be maintained. About April or May, many of the seedlings will begin to make their appearance, but this will depend upon the quality of the seed ; if it was well ripened when gathered, a large portion will vegetate the first season, but in most instances the greater portion will not vegetate until the following spring. The seedling plants should be removed when suf- ficiently strong to bear transplanting : in taking them up, care should be taken not to disturb the dormant seeds, or others just beginning to vegetate. The seed- lings which are removed from the seed pans during the spring and summer should be pricked out into other pans, and afterwards placed in a cold frame, where they can be shaded from hot sun, and occa- sionally watered. If allowed to grow in the seed pans until autumn, they may then be transplanted 47 into the open ground in a well sheltered border, and there allowed to remain until they bloom. Many of the seedlings will bloom the first year, but little more than the colour can be ascertained until the plant has been established at least two years. Those which pro- duce very thin petals, or which are deficient in colour, or single, may safely be discarded at once; retaining only such as have good outline, decided and distinct colour, petals of good substance, and the flower, if not full, somewhat more than semi-double. If all or any of these properties exist, they will improve under cultivation. Ckossing or Hybridizing. By crossing varieties of opposite characters, the colour, habit, and form are changed, and new varieties are obtained ; thus we are constantly receiving flowers of increased size and more perfect form. To perform this operation with any chance of success, a judicious selection of the varieties to be crossed must be made. Choose for the parent plants such sorts as bear seed fi:eely ; upon a fine dry day, when the bloom is fully expanded, remove the anthers from the flower with a pair of scissors, to prevent self-impregnation ; then take the pollen of another variety of opposite character, or one possess- ing some property that it is desirable to impart, and place on the pistil of the parent plant. This will require to be done with great care, and at a time of the day when the farina is observed to be most abun- dant. After the flower is impregnated, enclose it with a gauze bag, to prevent insects fi-om disturbing 48 the pollen until it has taken effect. The seed-pod which has been fertilized should be marked so as to be known at the time of gathering, and should be noted down so that the realization of the object aimed at may be watched in the seedling plants. Much time and patience will be required during and after the performance of this work. To those who have time to devote to it, nothing can be more pleasing or interesting, and it is the only sure means of bring- ing out any desired properties in new varieties. A more easy plan, though not so certain in its results is to plant side by side varieties of opposite characters, and to allow fertilization to be effected by the action of the wind, insects, or other causes. There need be no restriction as to crossing one group with another ; and so distinct and opposite are the properties of many varieties even in the same group or family, that no limit can be placed to the possible results. Before fertilizing, it will be necessary to become acquainted with what kinds will bear seed freely, and these must be selected for the seed-bearers. A great many varieties of roses never produce mature seed. The following may be taken as good seed- bearers. — Moss : Alice Leroy, Baronne deWassenaer, Celina, Clemence Beaugrand, Comtesse de Murinais, Luxembourg, Marie de Blois. French : Bizarre Marbr^e, Boula de Nanteuil, Glory of France, Na- poleon, Perle des Panach^es. Hybrid China : Blairii No. 2, Brennus, Ch^n^dold, Fulgens, G^n^ral Allard, Magna Rosea. Hyhrid Bourbon: Charles Lawson, Coupe d'H^b^, Paul Ricaut, Paul Perras. Austrian : Harrisonii. Ayrshire: Ruga, Bennett's Seedling. 49 Damask Perpetual : Du Roi. Moss : Perpetual White. Hyhrid Perpetual: Annie "Wood, Baronne Provost, Black Prince, Centifolia Rosea, Charles Lefebvre, Dr. Andry, Duchess of Sutherland, Due de Cazes, Due de Rohan, Fran9ois Lacharme, Gdant des Bat- ailles, Gdndral Jacqueminot, Gloire de Santenay, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, King's Acre, La Reine, Le Rhone, Lord Clyde, Lord Raglan, Madame Charles Crapelet, Madame Hector Jacquin, Pierre Notting, Peter Lawson, Prince Leon, Senateur Vaisse, Souvenir de Leveson Gower, Thorin, "William Jesse. Bourbon, : Bouquet de Flore, Louis Odier, Pierre de St. Cyr, Sir Joseph Paxton. China : Mrs. Bosanquet, Fabvier, Old "White. Many of the Tea- scented roses bear seed freely, but unless in very favourable situations and in warm seasons, the seed rarely ripens. To rear seedlings of this class, as well as some of the Noisette and China groups, the plants require to be brought under glass to mature their seed. FoECiNG. Few plants are more impatient of a high artificial temperature than the rose; and as little assistance can be expected from nature through- out the cold sunless months of December, January, and February — (the time when forcing is most active), a considerable amount of care and attention as well as skill, must be exercised. Houses or pits of proper construction, with efficient heating appli- ances must be provided. The best are low span- roof houses, or pits, with platforms or raised beds on each side, and the path along the centre. This will 50 allow of the plants being placed within ten or twelve inches from the glass, so that they may receive the full benefit of all light and sun. The platform or raised beds should be constructed so that the pots can be plunged in leaves or tan, and so arranged that the plants can be plunged more deeply as they increase in height, always endeavouring to keep them about ten or twelve inches from the glass. Air should be admitted throughout the bottom and top of the house, but not so as to come in direct contact with the plants. If hot water pipes are used, not less than a double row of four-inch pipe for a house twelve feet in width will be sufficient. The temperature by day should not rise higher than 60° or 75°, nor fall lower than 40° to 50° by night. The plants intended for forcing must be established at least one year in pots, varying from seven to twelve inches in diameter, according to the size and strength of the plants, which may be either worked upon the Manetti, Dog Rose, or upon their own roots. I prefer plants worked upon the Manetti for all kinds, excepting the Noisettes, and these I should choose plants grown upon their own roots, or worked upon the Cdine stock. To prepare all the hardy kinds, let the plants be taken up in the autumn. Carefully trim the roots, and pot into eight or nine-inch pots, using good turfy loam, and a liberal admixture of rotten dung and leaf mould. After potting, let them be watered and placed upon a sheltered border, where they can be plunged in coal-ashes, leaves, or tan. In the spring cut them back rather close, and as they com- 51 mence growing disbud and tie the shoots out, so as to form well-shaped plants. Any flower buds which appear should be taken off before they become fully matured. The Tea-scented and other tender sorts should be potted into seven or eight-inch pots, about March or April, and either grown under glass, being plunged in a gentle bottom heat, or otherwise grown out of doors upon a hotbed, where a genial bottom heat can be obtained throughout the summer. Early in October the plants should be repotted, taking pots according to the size of the plants, say from eight to nine inches in diameter ; a portion of the old spU should be removed, but this should be done without injuring or disturbing the roots. After potting, place them in a sheltered situation until about the end of November ; they may then be pruned, and if they have been properly disbudded, and the shoots have been trained during the previous growth, little more than shorten- ing the shoots down to three or four eyes wiQ be necessary. The Tea-scented sorts will not require to be cut so hard, in fact they should receive only moderate pruning. The plants may now be taken into the forcing house, the pots being plunged to their ftJl depth in prepared beds of leaves or tan ; here they should remain for the first fortnight without any artificial heat being applied, after which begin gently, increasing the temperature gradually as the plants are commencing to grow. The plants being brought up rather close to the glass, to receive all the benefit to be derived from sun and light, will be somewhat exposed to sudden changes of tempera- e2 52 ture; to provide against this, protection must be given by coveriiDg the outside of the house with mats or canvas during frosty weather. When the plants commence growing, examine them frequently for the grub, and upon the first appearance of greenfly, fumigate with tobacco ; and this will possibly require to be repeated every nine days or fortnight. Water the paths occasionally to keep up a moist atmo- sphere, and in the morning during fine weather let the plants be syringed over, and air admitted on all favourable occasions. If the least sign of mildew is observed, let sulphur be applied immediately, for should this disease once get thoroughly established, there will be some difficulty in eradicating it. The syringing must be discontinued when the plants are about to bloom. If it is desired to remove any plants to flower in the greenhouse or conservatory, let this be done a week or nine days before the blooms are likely to expand, when they will have somewhat recovered the change of temperature by the time they come into bloom, and will last much longer in flower in con- sequence. If allowed to bloom in the forcing house, shading must be provided and applied when neces- sary; air must also be admitted more abundantly, and less fire heat used. Plants which were brought into the forcing house in December, will bloom about the middle of March. To keep up a succession, introduce another supply in January and again in February, they may then be had in bloom fi-om March tiU June, 53 After the plants are gone out of bloom, harden them off for a few weeks in a cool house or pit, before turning them out of doors. When ready to be taken out, top dress with rich soil, and plunge all the hardy kinds in an open airy situation, there to remain imtil required for the next season's work. About September or October let them be repotted, take off a portion of the old soil, trim the roots, and pot into rich compost as before recommended. The same plants may be forced annually for several years, provided they are carefully attended to, and not allowed to be forced or bloom more than once during the same season. The French accomplish much in the way of forced roses, and their mode of growing them in small sized pots for market is very clever. The plants which they use for this purpose are all budded upon the Dog Rose, of all heights from dwarfs to standards, and the pots in which they are grown are rarely more than seven or eight inches in diameter, and many are grown in five or sis-iach pots. The plants have a very unique appearance, and are usually loaded with deliciously fragrant flowers. With few exceptions, the gardens or nurseries where these are grown are small and untidy, and the glass houses of the rudest description, having the most poverty- stricken appearance; nevertheless, the healthy growth of the plants therein show that they have been well tended, and that the growers know full well how to manage them. One of the largest establishments for forced roses I have ever seen, and which I believe is the largest 54 in France, is that of M. Laurent, 88, Rue de Lourcine, near Paris. He has some three or four acres entirely covered with low span-roof and lean-to houses and pits, specially for forcing roses and lilacs, these being the only two plants he cultivates. I am quite afraid to say the number of roses which are here forced annually, but I should judge there could not have been much less than fifty or sixty thousand. It was early in February when I saw them, when the houses and pits were all fall, and many thousand, plants outside ready to take the place of the early forced roses, as soon as their blooms were over. The blooms are gathered every morning, and sent to Paris for bouquets and decoration, for which there is always a large demand. The plants from this establishment are not sold. M. Laurent is also celebrated for forcing lilacs. His method of producing white flowers from the Purple Lilac is not generally known or practised, nor am I thoroughly in the secret, but it is never- theless a fact that he depends entirely upon the Purple Lilac to produce the finest white blooms throughout the winter. GRowiua Roses in Pots foe the Gkeenhouse or FOR Exhibition. The treatment necessary for pre- paring roses for greenhouse culture, as well as for exhibition, will be somewhat the same in both instances, though perhaps more care and attention will be required for the latter, both in training as well as after treatment. Commence with young healthy plants worked upon the Manetti stock. Plants established in eight or nine-inch pots, of the 55 most suitable kinds for pot culture, are generally to be had at the nurseries, and these being specially- prepared for the purpose a season will be gained by commencing with them. Early in the autumn the plants may be potted into seven, eight, or nine-inch pots, the strongest sized plants will require the latter size. The compost should consist of strong turfy loam and an equal quantity of rotted cow-dung or horse-dung. The Tea-scented and China sorts wiU. require the addition of leaf-mould and a small quantity of sand. The pots nmst be thoroughly well drained, using two or three inches of potsherds; upon these place a few inches of charcoal and bones, and again a few lumps of the turf from the compost, which, by-the-bye, should not be sifted or broken too fine. If the plants are in small pots, loosen the ball of earth gently without disturbing the roots ; in potting, press the soil firmly round the plant, and afterwards give a gentle watering, but not too copious at first, as the soil is apt to set hard on the surface by so doing. The hardy . sorts can be plunged out of doors in an open situation, using tan or coal-ashes as a plunging material. The Tea- scented and other tender kinds must be placed in a firame, where they will be better plunged in tan; and if this is in sufficient quantity to create a genial warmth, it will greatly assist them, and the roots wiU soon commence to grow. Towards spring, the hardy worked plants which are plunged out of doors will require to be pruned down rather closely the first year, and this can be done a few weeks after potting. About the middle of May, prepare a gentle 56 hotbed, in an open sunny situation, with manure which has been turned several times previously, in which case the heat will be retained for a much longer period ; upon this, place all the Tea-scented or other roses which it is desired to grow on as rapidly as possible ; let them be plunged to the rim of the pot in sawdust or tan. Here with a gentle bottom heat and free access of air upon all sides, they will make rapid and robust growth. Let all buds be taken off as they appear. Grive a supply of manure water once a week. In the course of three or four weeks the heat of the hotbed will be partially exhausted, it should then be turned over, adding some fresh manure to renew the heat ; the plants are then to be replaced and plunged as before. About the end of October, remove them into the greenhouse or frame. The hardy sorts can be plunged out of doors and protected during severe weather. Early in February the plants will require re-potting, those which have been growing in seven or eight-inch should be shifted into nine-inch, and those from nine-inch into ten-inch pots. As soon as the potting is finished, let the plants be pruned. The Tea-scented and China must not be cut in too close. Select the best shoot near the centre to train for the leading stem, shorten it about one third, prune the other shoots one half or three parts their length, these should then be carefully tied out ; this is most easily done by placing wire round the pot, underneath the rim. Let the shoots be drawn as near to the edges of the pot as can safely be done without breakiug them, then make fast with 57 small pieces of bast matting to the wire. If it is desired to grow the plants for exhibition, they must be carefully watched, and the shoots tied out as they advance in growth. The best form is that of a pyramid. To keep the plants equally balanced on all sides, a little skilful training will be requisite. Any gross shoots which appear should be stopped, the weak ones consequently will be encouraged. The second year the plants will be better if grown in a low house where they can be placed near to the glass and receive an abundance of air at all favourable seasons. To obtain plants of large size suitable for exhibition, three years- at least must elapse before they can be brought into proper form and size. EosE CoNSEEVATOEiES. Nothing can possibly be more delightful or beautiftJ than a large conserva- tory, filled entirely with- the choicest kinds of Tea scented. Noisette, and China Roses. No artificial heat being required, the temperature is delightful and most enjoyable at all seasons, but perhaps, more so in the spring of the year, when cold, piercing, easterly winds prevail. We have here the tem- perature of Italy or the south of France ; no frost during winter to harm our roses, nor yet smoke or dust to stifle them; the whole being uiider easy control, can be tended at our pleasure. The green- fly, the greatest pest to roses out of doors, is here easily destroyed ; a few pounds of tobacco paper wiU bring a whole colony to grief in a very short time. These are only a few of the advantages 58 derived from growing the delicate kinds of roses under glass, and it is almost needless to attempt to picture to the rose amateur the delightful and plea- surable occupation which a rose conservatory affords at all seasons of the year, for it can more easily be imagined than described. I had long contemplated the idea, as well as the necessity, of having conservatories in which to plant out all tender kinds of roses, but not until the destruction occasioned by the severe winter of 1860- 61, was I fully determined to carry out this object. During that season nearly every Tea-scented, China, and Noisette rose not under glass was totally killed, this disaster being attributable as much, perhaps, to the cold, wet, sunless summer preceding, as to the severity of the winter. I then determined to erect a large conservatory, wherein to plant out all Tea- scented, China, and Noisette roses. This conserva- tory is 140 feet in length, 24 feet in width, and has a well prepared bed, 1 1 feet wide, made the entire length of the house, with 3| feet walks passing round, upon either side of which are tan pits 3 feet wide, for growing specimen plants in pots. The centre bed is divided into seven rows, the centre row being planted with Cloth of Gold, Solfaterre, Lamarque, Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, Climbing Devoniensis, Madame Falcot, Celine Forestier, America, &c., &c. ; these are intended to be trained upon iron-wire pillars to the top of the house, which, by-the-bye, is 16 feet in height. The othey rows are planted with standard and dwarf-standard Tea-scented Roses, from 4 feet graduating to 1 foot; the whole is 59 surrounded by a neat garden-tile edging, underneath- ■which is planted a border of the Fairy Eose. Peopjeeties op a GrOOD Rose. The first and most essential point to constitute a good rose, is that the variety be hardy, and of a healthy and moderately robust habit, combining ample foliage; for be its blooms ever so good, if it refuses to grow under proper treatment it is almost worthless. Next to tiiese are fine form, fullness, large size, good sub- stance, fragrance, freedom to bloom, and decided and distinct colour. The form of the flower, whether it be cupped, globular, or expanded, should be symmetrical ; the petals even and regularly placed, smooth and free from all indentures, full but not crowded, the outer row being broad and closely folded to enable the flower to stand firm for several days ; they should be thick and leathery in texture, and not (as we too frequently see them) thin and flimsy, and either faded or fallen to pieces after an hour's sun. The colour, whatever it be, should be decided and lasting, and not changing to a dull, cloudy, or objectionable shade. The flower stem should be stout, to hold the bloom partly erect, so that it may be seen without the necessity of applying the hand. Every rose should be fragrant, and the more highly so the better. Whether summer-bloom- ing only or perpetual, it should be free to flower, in the former case yielding abundance of blooms through- out June and July, and in the latter fi-om June till November, allowing for an occasional rest between each period of flowering. A Perpetual Rose, to justify 60 its name, should always produce blooms at the end of each shoot. As examples of finely formed and per- fect roses, the following may be instanced : Cupped — Madame Vidot, Comtesse C^cile de ChabrHlant. Expanded — Madame Charles Wood, Souvenir de la Malmaison. Globular — Reine du Midi, La Reine. There is another class of roses which must not be overlooked, nearly if not quite as useful as the above, and to some much more so. These are hardy, free blooming, attractive varieties for garden decoration, many of which have not a single property to recom- mend them as show flowers, but which, for grouping and general effect in the flower garden, are most beautiful and attractive. The properties most to be desired in these are freedom and uniformity of growth, profusion of bloom, and brilliancy combined with durabihty of colour. Exhibiting and Cutting Blooms foe Show. The method of showing now most generally adopted is in trusses either singly or in groups of three trusses, in the latter case each truss is placed in a separate tube, so as to exhibit as far as possible the habit and characteristic properties of the variety; this is, undoubtedly, the best and most natural way of showing blooms. The blooms are usually shown in boxes, painted green, which should all be of uniform size. The dimensions required by the Horticultural Society are 6 inches in height at back, 4 inches in front, and 18 inches in width, and any convenient length, say 61 from 3 to 4 feet. The lids are made so that they can be taken off when the flowers are staged for exhibition. The boxes are filled with green moss, into which zinc tubes holding water are inserted for the reception of blooms. The tubes may be from 3 to 3 J inches deep, and about finch wide. When 3 trusses of each variety are to be exhibited, the tubes are placed in a triangular form, each to hold one stem. When cutting blooms, choose, if possible, the early part of the morning, before the dew is .off. Blooms gathered at this time will continue fresh throughout the day, but if cut when the sun is upon them, many of the thin petaled varieties will fade in a few hours. When they cannot be gathered in the morning, let it be done late in the evening, putting the stems into water immediately. In gathering and selecting the blooms, some little practice and skill, as well as an acquaintance with the varieties, will be necessary to enable the exhi- bitor to form a correct judgment as to the precise stage in which a flower should be when cut, so as to show the real character of the variety, and to be preserved perfect throughout the day of the show. If it be necessary to gather the flowers the morning before the day of the show, many of the thin petaled varieties must not be more than half expanded ; the stiff and thick petaled kinds may be nearly fully so. In very hot weather it will not be safe to depend upon any blooms which have been fully expanded and exposed to the sun for even a few hours. In the autumn or in cool weather this is not so 62 important. If the blooms can be gathered upon the morning of the show, many of the flowers may be fully, and others three parts expanded. From four to five inches of the stem should be cut with the bloom, and all or nearly all the foliage allowed to remain. In arranging the blooms, some taste will be necessary ; the largest blooms should be placed in the back row, and the smallest brought to the front The colours should contrast as much as possible, for on this the general effect of the stand will much depend. The blooms should always present a nice fresh appearance, and to keep them so a little water should be occasionally sprinkled upon the foliage ; they require also to be kept in as cool and shady a place as possible until the time for staging. Labels. Every rose tree should be labelled ; not only does a knowledge of its name add to the interest of the flower, but it is also a guide at pruning time, for a successful pruner will invariably look to the name of his rose before commencing operatioiis. Knowing this, he will call to mind the habit of the variety, and prune accordingly. The label most generally used is made of deal, cut about three inches in length, and three-quarters of an inch in breadth ; these are pierced with an awl at one end, and a piece of copper wire passed through the hole, by which the label is attached to the stem of the plant. These labels must be painted with white paint, and, before it becomes dry, the name written with a dark pencil. A very pretty and neat zinc 63 label for roses, as well as for other trees, is offered by Mr. Yeates, 6 Bulstrode Street, Welbeck Street, London. The name is written with indelible ink, and lead wire or tarred twine is used for suspending them. These I believe to be the neatest and cheapest labels ever offered. 64 PART II. A CHOICE SELECTION OF THE MOST ESTEEMED YAEIETIES OP E0SE8 IN CULTIVATION. WITH SHOE! BESCEIPIIONS AJSTD NOTES ON THEIE OEIOIN. In this collection, I have endeayoured to enumerate and describe all the varieties of roses worthy of •cultivation up to the present time; there may be some omissions of good roses gone by, on the other hand there are some enumerated which might pos- sibly have been dispensed with, and will ere long be no more. The list may appear somewhat voluminous, and perhaps rather perplexing to those who wish only for an unique selection. To obviate this, I have marked with an asterisk throughout each class such varieties only as possess superior excellence, and which may be safely taken as the cream of the whole collection, other selections for particular purposes will be found further on. The new roses of quite recent introduction I have purposely omitted, simply through not having proved them sufficiently to be enabled to give a reliable opinion. It requires at least one season to accurately test the properties of a new rose ; and those who jump at hasty conclusions upon the quality of this or that flower, are often misled, and by so doing mislead others. All I have described are from my own personal observa- tion, and may be depended upon as being reliable. 65 SUMMER ROSES. FLOWEKING IN MAT, JUNE, AND JULY. THE PEOYENCE OE CABBAGE EOSE. (Bosa emtifolia.') The Old Provence or Cabbage Eose is supposed to bave been introduced in 1596. All the varieties are perfectly hardy and deliciously fragrant, mostly of moderate or dwarf habit of growth, requiring rich soil and close pruning. They thrive best when grown upon their own roots, and a bed of the Old Cabbage Rose should be in every rosarium. The De Meaux, or Pompon, is a most interesting and beautifal little rose; for a small bed, or for an edging to larger beds, nothing can be better or more beautiful. Few of the kinds are suitable for taU standards, they will, however, thrive well upon half standards and dwarf standards. * Callage Provence or Old Callage Rose : flowers rose colour, the outer petals changing to paler rose ; form globular, very large and full, and highly fragrant; habit of growth moderate. *I>e MeoMx or Pompon : flowers rosy -pint and Ulao ; very small and compact, habit quite dwarf; a most beautiful little rose. Striped Unique: white, occasionally striped with lake; a sport from the old WTiite Unique, often beautiful. Spong : pale rose, flbwers small ; a pretty free flowering rose, and useful for edging or for a small bed. Unique or White Provence: flowers paper white, perhaps the purest white rose grown, form cupped, moderate size and fuU, though the petals are not very evenly disposed, habit moderate ; a most beautiful rose. 66 THE MOSS EOSE. {Rosa cenUfoUa m/nseosa). The original or Old Moss Rose is supposed to have been introduced from Holland in 1596, but as to its origin no satisfactory account has ever been given. It is however generally believed to be a sport from the Old Provence, and from the close resemblance which the flowers bear to each other (with the addition of the mossy buds of the former), this is doubtless correct. Although several hundred varieties of the Moss Rose have been raised since the introduction of the original, none are superior, if equal to it, in point of beauty or fragrance ; its long handsome buds covered with tufts of the most beautiful mossy excrescence make it interesting and beautiful in all stages. The Crested Moss Rose, or, as it is sometimes called, Crested Provence, is most peculiar and beautiful ; the beauty of its bud alone should claim a place for it in every garden. The Moss Roses are mostly of delicate growth, though some are vigorous and robust in habit, and form good standards, but as a rule they all succeed best when grown upon low stocks, or otherwise upon their own roots ; the latter mode is best suited to the Old Moss, and no garden wherever roses are grown should be without a bed or two of this old favourite. They require rather high cultivation and close pruning, and generally speaking rather better treat- ment than ordinary kinds. In wet or cold damp soils they do not thrive, a warm dry soil being required, and this well supplied annually with 67 manure. If at any time they appear to decline in health, they should be taken up and replanted into fresh loamy soil, and cut hard back. AUee Leroy: rosy -pink witli handsome mossy buds, moderate size and full, free-flowering and good habit ; a good and useful rose, • forming a good standard. *£aronm de Wassenaer: deep rose, very large and double, buds moderately well mossed, habit vigorous, a very showy and useful rose; forms a good standard. Celina: velvety purple and crimson, buds well mossed, and very ' beautiful ; flowers moderate size, full, and when newly opened very beautiful; habit of growth rather too dwarf; requires rich soil and close pruning. Clemmce Beaugrand : soft pink, a handsome and well mossed bud, flower large, having a fine broad petal, not very full ; a good rose, of free habit. * Common, or Old Moss: pale rose, globular, very large and full, and delioiously fragrant, buds well mossed, habit free ; the most beautiful of all the Moss Eoses ; should be grown upon its own roots in rich soil. Comtesse de Mmrinais : pale flesh when newly opened, changing to pure white, large and double though not very full, robust habit ; one of the hardiest of the white Moss Eoses. *Cristata, or Crested Provence : pale rosy-pink changing to pai,e rose ; globular, very large and full, the buds beautifully crested, an interesting and beautiful rose ; habit moderate. *Frederie Soulie : crimson shaded with purple, large and full, a well formed and excellent rose ; habit moderate. Gloire des Monsseuses : pale rose, the outer petals whitish, one of the largest and best of Moss Eoses, buds large and handsome ; habit very vigorous, forming a good standard. * Gracilis, or Prolific : deep pink, buds handsomely mossed, flowers large, globular, full and of good shape, an excellent rose ; habit moderate. John Cranston : shaded violet- crimson, colour rich and good, flowers of moderate size, expanded, full, and well formed ; habit free. Julie de Mersant : rosy- pink, moderate size, blooming in clusters, buds small and very pretty. 68 *Laneii : deep brilliant rose, a beautiful round handsome bud and well mossed, flowers very large, full, and excellent ; one of the best Moss Eoses grown. Luxembourg : purplish-crimson, flowers large and foil, a very old variety, of most vigorous habit ; very useful as a pillar rose, or as a tall standard. Marie de Blois : bright rose, large and full, an excellent rose, with well mossed handsome buds ; habit robust and good. Princess Royal : pale flesh, very compact and full, flowers rather small, though quite distinct and very beautiful ; habit moderate. Meine Blanche : pure white, flowers of good size and tolerably double. Unique: pure white, in dry weather slightly tinted; evidently a sport from the Old Unique Provence, which the flower much jesembles, with the addition of having mossy buds ; habit dwarf and delicate. * White Bath: paper- white, very beautiful and distinct; one of the best white Moss Eoses in cvltivation. THE PEENCH EOSE. {Sosa GalUca). The Frencli Rose, or Rosa Gallica, is supposed to have been introduced into England about the six- teenth century, and until the introduction of the perpetual blooming varieties was the favourite Rose of our English gardens. Upwards of one thousand varieties of this family alone have been cultivated ; such, however, has been the increase of Perpetual Roses during the last twenty years, that the Gallica and other summer blooming roses (excepting the very choicest kinds) have long been thrown out of cultivation. There are, however many varieties of this family which possess a brilliancy and richness of colour, together with flowers of perfect form and chaste outline combined with delicious fragrance, which for garden roses cannot well be-dispensed with. 69 They are all perfectly hardy, and will grow in any ordinary garden soil, though improved by, and well deserving of liberal cultivation. They are all suitable for growing as standards or dwarf bushes, and no roses bloom more abundantly, or produce a finer show throughout June and July : moderately close pruning is necessary, the heads being kept well thinned out of the small and weak wood. *M%arre Marbrie : rose, beautifully mottled, full and finely shaped ; a good free-blooming rose. *£ouh de Nantueil : rich, crimson and purple, very large and Ml ; a well-formed and excellent flo-wer, and a first-rate shfl-w rose. jy Aguesseau : brilliant crimson, shaded and slightly mottled; perfectly formed, and a beautiful rose. *Gloire de Colmar : deep crimson shaded with velvety crimson, full and finely formed ; a beautiful rose. *Kean or Shakespeare: rich velvety-crimson, flowers large and full, and perfectly formed ; one of the most perfect and constant show roses. Latour d'Amergne : bright rose, slightly mottled ; a very large, finely formed, and excellent show fiower. Napoleon : bright rose suffused with purple, flowers large and full ; a most abundant bloomer, and a very handsome erect-growing rose. *(Eillet Pwrfait: white, distinctly striped with rosy-crimson, very distinct and beautiful ; one of the best of the striped roses. *Ohl: velvety- crimson, colour very rich and beautiful, flowers large and finely shaped ; a superb show rose. Perle des Fanache'es : white, beautifully striged with rose ; very pretty and distinct. THE HTBEID CHINA EOSE. {Bosa indica hylrida.") The Hybrid China Roses are hybrids between the French and the Provence, crossed with the China and Noisette Roses. They are most robust growers, 70 with ample foliage and showy flowers. Their vigor- ous growth and hardy constitution make them the most desirable of all for forming large handsome pillar roses ; and certainly nothing can be more beautiful than Blairii No. 2, Chenedole, Fulgens, Leopold de Bauffremont, Madame Plantier, Magna rosea, Sfc, Sfc, when grown six to eight feet in height trained to rough poles ; in this form they are usually one mass of flower from bottom to top. They are also adapted for standards, especially where tall standards are required, and the most vigorous sorts may be trained to form umbrella-shaped heads. In pruning, do not shorten the strong shoots upon the vigorous growers too close : thin out the heads, and prune the strong shoots down to 18 inches or 2 feet, and the weak ones to 9 or 12 inches. *Blairn No. 2: rosy-blush, fine large petals, very handsome foliage, and a most beautiful rose, either as a pillar or weeping rose. Brennus: deep carmine, a handsome old variety, forms a noble standard or pillar rose. *CMnidoU: brilliant glowing crimson, a superb rose; a very showy standard or pillar rose. *Comtesse de ZaeSp^de: silvery-blush, a most abundant bloomer and a charming rose, either grown as a pillar or standard. *I>ouble Margined Hip : creamy-white, beautifully tinted with carmine ; a very pretty and distinct rose. "^Fulgens : bright scarlet-crimson, colour exquisite, a fine old rosei and very beautiful as a tall standard or pUlar. *Leopold de Bauffremont: fresh rosy-piok, shape perfect, very compact and most abundant bloomer, when grown as a pillar rose truly beautiful. *Madame Plantier: pure white, a very old rose, an abundant blooming and fine pUlar rose. Magna Rosea : light blush tinted with pink, large petal and a handsome rose ; very showy as a pillar or weeping rose. 71 Miss Jngram : nearly white, centre delicate flesh, flowers large, globular, and beautifully formed; habit vigorous. Introduced 1867. THE HYBRID BOUEBON ROSE. These are hybrids between the Gallica and Pro- vence and the Bourbon Roses ; the foliage, which is large, handsome, and shining, partakes much of the latter kind, the flowers resembling the Hybrid Chinas. They are nearly all of vigorous or robust growth, forming handsome standards, and some make good pillar roses. A few are good show roses ; in fact Charles Lawson, Coupe cfHeM, and Paul Ricaut, are equal to any in cultivation. Catherine Bonnard : cerise, flowers moderate size, full and well formed ; will make a good pillar rose. Introduced 1871. * Charles Zatoson: bright pink, very large, full, and perfect, a noble rose, with large handsome foliage ; forms a magnificent tall standard or pillar rose. *Cowpe X'Sili: delicate rosy-flesh, large and double; one of the most beautiful of summer roses; forms a handsome standard or pillar. Frederick II. : violet-purple and crimson, large, handsome and distinct ; a good rose of vigorous habit, Juno: pale rose, globular, very large and full, a handsome robust growing rose ; suitable for tall standard or piUar. PaulPerras: pale rose, very large and full, a most robust grower; a good rose for a pillar or tall standard. *F(mlJiicaut: brilliant carmiue, often shaded with velvety-purple, flowers large and exquisitely formed, habit free, though not vigor- ous ; one of the most beautiful roses in cultivation, and a superb show rose. THE ALBA, OE "WHITE EOSE. {Eosa alba). The Alba Roses are distinguishable by their light glossy foliage, and white, blush, or delicate pink flowers. They are a very distinct group, of 72 moderate growth, with flowers of moderate size. They are all abundant bloomers, and form good standards, half-standards, or dwarf bushes. They require rather close pruning. FMieiU Farmentier: blush with pink centre, a beautiful and dis- tinct rose, very free blooming, and good habit. Madame Legras: pure white, free blooming and good ; free growth. Sophie de Baviere: deep rosy-pink, flowers of moderate size, distinct and beautiful ; free growth. Sophie de Marsilly: pale blush, centre rose, very beautiful in the bud; habit free. THE DAMASK EOSE. {Bosa Bamascena). The introduction of the Damask Rose dates as far back as 1573, when, as is supposed, it was introduced from Syria. The leaves are pubescent and of pale green colour, by which the group is readily dis- tinguished. They are all deliciously fragrant ; this, and the interest attached to the early introduction of the species will always obtain admirers of the Damask Rose. They are mostly of moderate growth, and require rather close pruning and rich soil. *Za VilU de Bruxelles : bright glossy rose, fuU and very hand- some, a robust growing rose ; makes a good pillar or standard. Leda or Painted BamasJc: blush edged with pink, pretty and distinct, moderate growth. *Madame Hardy : pure white, large and full ; an excellent old white rose, of moderate though good habit. Madame Stoh : pale lemon, nicely formed, distinct and pretty. *Madame Zoutman : the palest flesh, often white, shape perfect, the most beautiful of aU light roses ; moderate growth. Semiramis : sahnon-rose, centre fawn ; a beautiful and distinct rose of moderate growth. 73 THE AUSTRIAN BEIAK. {Eosa lutea). The Austrian Briar was introduced from the south of Europe in 1596. The different varieties form a beautiful and distinct group, containing the deepest and purest yellow roses in cultivation — the Persian Yellow especially ; this was introduced from Persia in 1838. Harrisonii is also a beautiful free-flowering rose. These roses, after -the first or second year, require little or no pruning : let the heads be kept well thinned, and merely the ends taken off the long shoots. They are, perhaps, more impatient of a smoky atmosphere than any other roses, and to grow them successfully they must have pure air and a warm dry soil. Ausirian Yellow : flowers single, colour bright yellow ; suooeeds best grown upon its own roots. Austrian Copper : flowers reddish-copper, single, striking and beautiful ; succeeds best upon its own roots. *Marrisonn : fine golden-yellow, semi-double, flowers of moderate size, a very free grower and a most abundant bloomer; forms a good weeping or pillar rose. *P&rsi(m Yellow : the deepest golden-yellow, flowers large and full, the flnest of aU double yellow roses, hardy and free growing. THE DOUBLE YELLOW EOSE. {Rosa siAphu/red). The Old Double Yellow or Yellow Provence ia so shy a bloomer, and so very rarely (even in the most &vourable situations) does it produce a full blown flower, that it may now be said to have nearly gone out of cultivation. The interest attached to its early introduction, which is supposed to have been about the sixteenth century, is still an inducement to 74 many to retain it in their collections, and to some it is still an interesting object for experiment, for "when it can be induced to bloom, no double yellow rose is equal to it. For my own part I have long given up the attempt. Double Yellow or Sulphurea : flowers of the deepest golden-yello-w", very large, double, and globular, leaves palish. yeUow, wood covered with small spines, habit of growth moderate. THE SWEET BEIAE. (Ilosa rubiginosa). So delicious is the scent of the sweet Briar that no rose garden, nor, in fact, any other garden of flowers, should be without a bush or two, or a hedge of this native plant. Many varieties have been raised producing double flowers, all of which are more or less fragrant, but none whose leaves possess the delicious perfume of the common kind. I consider but one variety worthy of cultivation for its flowers alone, which is the Double Scarlet. ^Double Scarlet : bright rosy-crimson, flowers small, perfectly double, and deliciously fragrant, very pretty and free flowering; habit of growth moderate. THE SCOTCH EOSE. {Rosa spinosissima). The Scotch Rose is a native of the north of England and Scotland. Many interesting and pretty varieties have been raised, but as none of them possess the properties of a florists' flower, they have been thought but little of j nevertheless, they are very pretty and sweet scented, and blooming so early in spring, before any other roses, are desirable 75 and well worthy of cultivation. They form pretty hedges in the rosarium, and may also be planted with good effect upon sloping banks or in rough situations. They are so thoroughly hardy that they will grow in the poorest soil. The following are a few of the best varieties : — Argo : blush. Snowball: white. * Arthur^ s Seat : pale blush. Flora : deep rose. Loch Ness : pale rose. Pluto : lilac rose. *Townsend: blush. *Tellow: straw, often only creamy white. CLIMBING ROSES. THE ATESHIEE EOSE. {Rosa anensis). The Ayrshire Rose, a native of Britain, is one of the hardiest and most vigorous of roses. From their rampant and quick growth, they are the most suitable for covering rough banks, archways, arbours, festoons, &c., they also form beautiful objects when grown as weeping roses, being budded upon tall standard briars, eight to nine feet in height. No pruning (further than reducing their size when over- grown) is necessary. *£ennett's Seedling : pure white, blooms in immensely large clus- ters, double, beautiful grown either as a climbing or weeping rose. Dundee Rambler : white tinged with pink, very vigorous. Fortune^ s Yellow: copper-yellow, semi-double, pretty; not perfectly hardy. *Myrrh-scented : white tinted with pink, pretty, and very fragrant. *Ruga: pale flesh, deHciously fragrant, double, free-blooming, and very beautiful. Splen&ens : white tinged with pink, not very double ; small and pretty. 76 THE MFLTITLOEA EOSE. (Eosa muUiflora). The Multiflora Rose was introduced from China in 1804. From the original type some twenty or thirty varieties have sprung; out of these we can select three excellent and distinct roses, being all that may be desired from this group. *Alba, OT Filmte perpetmlk : pure white, blooms in large clusters, sMning sub-evergreen foliage ; a beautiful climbing rose. *Zaure Davousi : pink and lilac ' blusb, blooms in immensely large clusters ; tbe most beautiful of all climbing roses. RueseUiana : rose, changing to Ulac, flowers of medium size ; a distinct and pretty rose. THE EVERGREEN EOSE. {£osa sempervirens). The Evergreen Roses, correctly speaking, are only Sub-evergreen ; although during a mild winter they often retaiQ their foliage the greater part of the season. They are well ftirnished with ample foliage, of dark green colour, and of most vigorous growth ; their flowers are small, produced in corymbs, and mostly fragrant. The Rosa sempervirens is a native of Italy. ^ Adelaide d' Orleans : rose, shaded, small and pretty. *£anksind very beautiful ; habit free. *Lady Suffield: deep purplish-rose, flowers large, cupped, double, and beautifully formed, petals large and smooth ; a fine rose. *La Fhoceene : rich shaded crimson, cupped, fuU, and perfectly formed, a beautiful rose ; habit vigorous. *Za Ville de St. Denis : rosy-carmine, flowers large and globular, exquisitely formed ; a free growing, constant, and excellent rose. *Laurent Bescourt: mulberry-brimson, colour very beautiful, petals large, broad, and cupped, an exquisitely formed flower ; habit free. Introduced in 1862. *L(Blia : satin rose, a noble rose with fine, large, smooth, cup- shaped petals, flowers double and exquisitely formed; a most superb rose ; habit moderate. Zafontaine: purplish-rose, flowers very large, distinct; habit robust. Ze Baron de Rothschild: crimson, fine large, smooth, and weU disposed petals, flowers large ; habit free. ^Introduced in 1862. Ze Ehone: brilliant crimson, colour superb, and often very beautiful; habit moderate. Zena Twrner : cerise, shaded with violet, flowers large, full, and imbricated; a good rose. Introduced in 1869. Z'Esperance: rosy-cerise, colour clear and satiny, flowers large and double, highly scented, a good rose, habit moderate. Introduced in 1871. 92 Le Ha/ore : brilliant vermilion, very large and double ; habit moderate. Introduced in 1871. *Zeopold I. : crimson, with, soft tint of violet, flowers large, fiiU, and imbricated, a good rose ; habit vigorous. *Leopold II. : brilliant rosy-vermiUon, large broad petals, flowers immensely large, double and well formed, an excellent rose; introduced in 1868 ; habit robust. Lwd Clyde: rich scarlet-crimson, flowers large, full, and well formed. Eaised by Messrs. Paul «& Son ; sent out in 1863. *Lord Macaulay : dark velvety crimson, colour dense and glowing, flowers large, double, and well formed, habit moderate. Eaised by Mr. 'William Paul : sent out in 1863. *Lord Raglan : deep crimson, changing to mottled crimson, flowers large, full, and weU formed, habit vigorous ; a very superb rose. *Lord Herhert: rich carmine, petals very smooth and perfectly imbricated, flowers large and very fuU ; a superb rose. *Louisa Wood: bright rose, flowers large and full, with large well formed petals, a superb rose, free flowering, and good habit. Introduced in 1869. Louis Charlin : dark crimson, colour of Pauline lansezeur, a good, full, and well formed flower, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Louise Corbie : carmine-rose, flowers large, fuU, and well formed, a very abundant bloomer, and a fine rose. Introduced in 1871. Louise Noisette : deep bright rose or rosy-red, colour very beau- tiful, flowers very large and full, globular, a good rose ; habit robust. Louise Mdgnan : white, slightly tinted, large and fall ; a good rose, but delicate. *Louis Fan Soutte : velvety crimson, mottled and shaded with violet-purple, flowers very large, fall, and cupped, a superb rose ; '^ habit vigorous. Louise d'Areens : creamy-white, beautifaUy cupped and well formed, flowers rather too smaU, though distinct, and very pretty ; habit moderate. *Louise Peyronny ; satin, rose, globular, flne bold petal, a hand- some rose ; habit moderate. *Lyonndis : satin rose, colour clear and beautifiil, flowers cupped, very large and full ; a very distinct and superb rose, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. 93 *Madame Bellon : brilliant cerise, flowers very large, and well- formed. Ml high centre, a very fine rose ; habit vigorous. Intro- duced in 1871. *Madame BelKnder Eer : white, exquisitely shaded in the centre with soft fawny flesh, flowers moderate size, beautifully imbricated, full ; habit moderate. Madame Boll: delicate rosy-peach, flowers large, very full, and, well formed ; a rose of unusually large size, and of very robust habit. Madame Boutin : cerise, a beautiful clear colour, flowers very large and full, petals broad, even, and well disposed ; an excellent rose of robust habit. Introduced iu 1861. Madame Briamon : brilliant carmiue, good colour, flowers large and full, and tolerably well formed, a good rose ; habit moderate. ^Madame Caillat : -clear briiHant rose, flowers large and fiill, petals smooth, broad, and even ; handsome foliage and smooth wood ; a first-rate rose, habit robust. Introduced ia 1861. Madame Chate : bright cerise, fiowers cupped, large and full ; a good rose. Introduced in 1871. Madame CMrard : clear rose, fiowers very large, globular ; an exquisite rose. Madame Charles Crapelet: rosy-carmine, large smooth petals exquisitely formed and beautifully disposed, a beautiful rose ; habit free. ^Madame de Bidder : rich dark shaded crimson, large, handsome, well formed flowers ; habit vigorous, a most excellent rose. Intro- duced in 1871. Madame de Saint Fulgent : dark velvety crimson shaded with deep plum, a well formed and handsome flower ; habit vigorous. Intro- duced in 1871. Madame George Schwart%: glossy rose with soft lavender shade, flowers large, full, and cupped, a very deep well formed flower, and a fine rose ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. *Madame Guillot de Mont Fa/vet : blush, centre fiesh, colour of Baroness Rothschild, flowers globular, large and fuU, a very fine rose ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Madame Eippolyte Jamain : blush, fiowers globular, large, and full ; habit moderate. Introduced in 1871. *Madame Laurent : bright rose, fine large globular fiower, hand- some and distinct, a fine rose ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1 871. 94 Madame la Marquise de Chamhm : salmon-rose, deeper in the centre, very full and perfect form, a new colour, distinct and fine ; habit robust. Introduced in 1871. '"•Madame Charles Wood: beautiful clear rosy-crimson, petals large and of good substance, expanded, full, and beautifully formed ; a distinct and magnificent rose ; habit moderate. Introduced in 1861. ^Madame Clemence Joigneaux: brilliant rosy -carmine, fine large petal, fiowers very large, deep, and very fuU, habit very robust ; a superb rose. * Madame Grey ton: brilliant vermilion,^ shaded with violet-rose, flowers very large and full, petals large, smooth, and even, a fine rose; iutroduoed in 1868, habit vigorous. ^Madame Glert : salmon-piak, large flowers, imbricated and well formed, distinct. Introduced in 1868. *Madame Becour : rich vermilion-rose, cojour transparent, flowers large, full, and erect, petals remarkably smooth and shell-shaped; an exquisite rose. Introduced in 1868, habit robust. *Madame Damage : bright cerise, a most superb colour ; flowers very large, handsome, and good ; robust habit, with very thorny wood. *Madame Derroux Bomille: Hght satin rose, shaded, flowers even and beautifully formed ; habit vigorous. ^Madame de Camhae^res : brUliant rose, large and full, buds verv handsome, an abundant bloomer, and an excellent robust growing rose. ^Madame Zefelvre Bernard : bright salmon-rose, colour distinct and fine, smooth shell shaped petals, very large and full, a superb rose ; one of the best new roses. Introduced in 1871. Madame Lidbaud : white, centre flesh, changing to pure white, flowers large, full, and finely formed ; habit moderate. - *Madame Sovpion Cochet : bright cherry-red, large, fuU, and very well formed ; a superb rose. Introduced in 1871. ^Madame Thereae de Parrieu : brilliant carmine, beautiful soft colour, and even throughout ; a very distinct and first-rate rose • habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Madame Mtgkne Appert : fresh rosy-pink, colour clear and good, flowers large, fuU, and beautifully cupped, highly scented, habit vigorous. 95 Madame Clert : light salmon-pink, finely formed and imbricated, flo-wers of medium size, well formed, habit vigorons. Madame Dusour : vermilion tinted with white, flowers large, full, and well formed, a very attractive rose ; habit vigorous. *Madame JSmain: magenta-rose, fine colour, flowers large and fuU, petals remarkably even and well disposed ; a superb rose. *Madame Fillon : fresh rosy-pink, flowers large, fall, and of good form, a very distinct and beautiful rose, very fragrant; habit moderate. *Madame Furtado : brilliant carmine-rose, colour fresh and bean- tiful, flowers globular, of great depth and fine outline, fuU and exqnisitely formed, the outer petals imbricated and beautifully disposed, a fine rose ; habit dwarf. Madame George Paul: bright rosy crimson, flowers large and globular ; habit robust. Madame Grondier : pale rose, large, globular, a handsome rose in the way of Monsieur Noman ; habit vigorous. Madame Heotor Jacquin : brilliant clear rose, superb colour, large handsome petals and buds, not very full ; habit robust. *Madame Julie Baran : violet-crimson, flowers cupped and beauti- fully formed, having large smooth petals of good quality ; a rose of vigorous habit. Introduced in 1861. *Madame Julie Bourgeois : colour brilliant crimson, with a beau- tiful violet shade, full and well formed, a good rose. Introduced in 1868 ; habit vigorous. *Madame Jacquier : lavender-rose, veined and shaded bright rose, flowers globular, petals deep and shell shaped, handsome in the bud. Introduced in 1868 ; habit vigorous. *Madame Knorr : deep briUiant rose, outer petals whitish j a free growing, distinct, and very beautiful rose. *Madame la Baronne de RofhscMld : palest flesh, colour most chaste and delicate, petals large and smooth, flowers large, double, * and of fine globular form, very distinct and beautiful, and a most superb rose. Introduced in 1867 ; habit robust. *Madame Zierval: pale rose, centre rosy-pink with a soft lilac tint, flowers very large, full and cupped, an exquisitely formed flower with high centre. Introduced in 1868 ; habit vigorous. *Madame Marie Cirodde : salmon-pink, outer petals paler, flowers expanded, fuU, and well formed, a good rose ; habit very robust. 96 *Madame Mbreau: deep crimson suffused -with purple, flowers expanded, very large aud very fuU, a fine rose mtli a good outside petal ; habit moderate. *Madame Therese Levet : light carmine-rose, flowers large and full, beautifully imbricated, a superb rose. Introduced in 1867; habit vigorous. Madame Vahmbourg : briUiant scarlet-crimson,, finely suffused or tinted with purple, petals large and smooth, flowers large, cupped, and well formed. Introduced in 1862. ^Madame Victor Verdder : brilliant rosy-crimson, colour very beautiful, flowers large, full, and well formed, and very lasting; a-., distinct and very superb rose, habit vigorous. ^Madame Vidot : the palest flesh, often pure white, flowers large and full, most beautifully and perfectly formed, habit moderate ; a superb rose. Madame Vigneron : soft rose, flowers moderate size, very fragrant, habit vigorous. Madame William Paul : rich dark crimson suffused with purple, petals large and of good substance, flowers large, cupped, and well formed; a fine rose. Introduced in 1862. Mademoiselle Marie Oonod : palest flesh, changing to pure white, the edges of the petals tinted, flowers cupped, full and beautifully formed; habit moderate ; introduced in 1870. '^Mademoiselle Christine Nilsson: deep rose shaded with plum, flowers large, full, and tolerably well formed ; habit vigorous. *Mademoiselle Amelie Salphen : brilliant carmine changing to lake, flowers half cupped, petals smooth and good; very free blooming and good rose ; habit moderate. ^Mademoiselle Bonnaire : pure white, centre shaded palest flesh ; flowers of medium size, full and well formed ; a beautiful free blooming and distinct rose ; habit free. Mademoiselle Jeanne Marix : bright rose marbled with crimson, flowers very large, full and globular, habit robust. Mademoiselle Euginie Verdier : pearly- white with the palest flesh centre, flowers of moderate size, cupped, and finely formed; distinct, and very beautiful. ^Mademoiselle Marie Bady : rich rose, flowers large and beautifully imbricated ; a superb rose, habit vigorous. 97 Mademoiselle Ma/rie de la Villeloinet: pale rose changing to flesh, flowers very large, expanded; a well formed flower, habit robust. *Mademoiselle Marguerite Domhrain : satin rose, flowers large, full and globular ; a distinct and fine rose ; habit vigorous. *Mareohal Vaillant : rosy-crimson, colour bright, flowers very large and handsome, habit vigorous. Marguerite de St. Amand: glossy satin rose, a beautiful fresh colour, flowers extra large, globular and well formed ; a beautiful and distract rose, habit moderate. *Marie Beauman : rich carmine-crimson, flowers large and of exquisite form, perfectly full, and very beautiful, habit vigorous. " *Maurice Bernardin : rich crimson shaded with violet, flowers fall and well formed ; a fine rose. Introduced in 1861. *Marquise de Mortemart : blush- white, centre pale flesh, colour delicate and beautiful, petals smooth and even, flowers large and cupped ; an exquisite rose, and one of the best light varieties ; introduced in 1868 ; habit vigorous. *Marquise de Castellane : deep cerise, colour clear and good, flowers large, circular, and fiiU ; a superb rose, habit robust. Introduced, in 1869. Marquis de Zigneris : dark Hlac-rose, flowers large, deep, and finely cupped ; a very excellent rose. ^Marquise de Verdun: bright rose or rosy-carmine, very large and showy; introduced in. 1868 ; habit vigorous. *Marquise de Gihot : pale rose, flowers large, full and globular ; a fine and distinct rose ; introduced in 1868 ; habit vigorous. Maxime de la BaeJieterie : rich plum shaded with crimson, flowers large, smooth, and expanded; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Minerva : rich velvety -crimson, shaded vsrith deep velvety-plum colour, smooth sheU-shaped petals, in form like a Camellia, distinct ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1868. Miss Poole : pale pink, a nicely formed pretty flower. Intro- duced in 1869. *Monsieur Boncenne : intensely dark crimson, colour very superb, flowers large, full, and well formed ; one of the best dark flowers ; habit vigorous. Monsieur Cordier : brilliant sealing-wax-red, a very large, full, expanded flower ; habit robust. Introduced in 1860. 98 * Monsieur EtienneLevet : vermilion with a soft lavender shade, vel- vety, flowers very large and full, petals exquisitely smooth and shell- shaped, superb, and one of the finest roses, introduced in 1872. *Momieur Frmgois Michelon : fine deep rose, reverse of petals silvery-white, flowers large and full ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Monsieur Paul Neron : pale spft rose, violet shade, flowers im- mensely large and full ; a superb rose, habit robust. Monsieur ie Montigny : brilliant rose colour, fresh and beautiful, flowers very large and well formed ; a handsome robust growing rose. *Monsieitr Noman: delicate rosy-pint, flowers large, of fine globular form; a most superb rose; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1867. ^Monsieur Woolfleld: rich rosy-pink, flowers large, full and well formed; a fine rose, resembling (but much fuller) CentifoUa rosea; habit vigorous. ^Monsieur Jowneaux: cerise, fiowers large, deep, and well formed, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1868. *Mrs. Rivers : pale satin-rose, sometimes flesh, flowers large, full, cupped, and most beautifully formed ; a superb rose, habit free. ^^— *Nwrdy Freres : rose, shaded with soft lavender, flowers very large, fuU and well formed; a very distinct and first-rate rose; introduced in 1868 ; habit vigorous. * Olivier Belhomme : brilliant rosy-carmine, flowers well formed, of good depth and high centre, fine petal and good outline ; a superb rose. Introduced in 1861. *Paul Verdier : rich rosy-crimson, flowers large, double, and of fine imbricated form ; a beautiful rose, habit very vigorous, forming a good pillar rose. *Paul Besgrand: deep rosy-crimson, suffused with rich mulberry, flowers large and full, petals smooth and well. disposed ; a fine rose, habit vigorous. Pavilion de Pregny: rosy-lavender, base of the petals white, small, clustering ; veiy pretty, habit free. ^•Piford : light crimson or scarlet, globular and well formed, distinct, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1867. *Pierre Notting : deep velvety shaded crimson, a fine deep globular flower, very large ; a superb rose, habit vigorous. — 99 Perfection de Lyon : deep rose shaded, the undersides of the petals paler, a very fine globular flower ; habit robust. Pierre Immbert : velvety crimson, outer petals deep red, large and handsome; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. *President Thiers : brilliant vermilion -crimson, beautifal clear colour, flowers immensely large and fuU, petals large, smooth, and ■well formed ; a grand rose ; habit vigorous. *Pre»iden,t Willermoi : rich brilliant carmine with a very soft and pleasing violet tint, colour new and distinct, fine petal and very beautifal, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1867. *Prinee Camille de Rohan : rich dark maroon-crimson, colour superb, flowers of moderate size and double; one of the finest dark roses in cultivation. Introduced in 1861. *Prince Henri de Pays Bas : bright crimson and velvety-purple, flowers fuU sized, globular, and well formed, habit vigorous. *Prince Humbert : deep rich velvety-crimson shaded with blackish-purple, petals large, flowers large, double, and well formed ; a good rose, habit vigorous. Prince Imperial : rosy -pink, flowers very large, full and globular, the largest rose grown ; habit vigorous. *Prinee Leon : light rosy-crimson, petals very thick, and flowers exquisitely formed ; a very superb rose, growth moderate, though its wood is robust and foliage fine. Prince Stirhy : superb rose colour, flowers very large and full ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Prince of Wales {Laxton) : deep silvery-pink, very large, full, globular shape, and flnely formed, petals somewhat thin, though a distinct and fine rose ; habit moderate. Introduced in 1870. «Princess Mary of Cambridye: pale silvery-pink, flowers large, full, and high in the centre ; a beautiful rose. Princess Beatrice : flowers deep pink with clear blush margin, large, fcdl, and of globular form, a distinct and fine rose, raised by Mr. W. Paul, and introduced in 1872. Princess ChrisHm : rosy-peach shaded with salmon, very large handsome egg-shaped buds, a very fine rose grown under glass, but does not always open out of doors. Eaised by Mr. "William Paul, and introduced in 1870. Princess Louise {Laxton) : white, sometimes blush-white, pretty, but wanting in substance. Introduced in 1870. 100 ^Princess of Wales : carmine, colour bright and beautiful, flowers good size, cupped, and well formed ; a fine rose, habit vigorous. Princess Louise Victoria {Knight) : flesh changing to blush, compact and moderate size, clustering and very pretty, a good pillar or climbing rose, raised by Mr. Knight of HaUsham. Introduced in 1872, * Queen Victoria : flesh shaded with pink towards the centre, very , large, fall and beautifally formed, flowers in large clusters ; a beautiful rose, habit moderate. *Beine Blanche : pearly-white, centre the palest flesh, flowers large, full and cupped, petals smooth and finely disposed ; a charming rose, andoneofthebest light varieties introduced in 1868; habit free. *Reine Daniel : rich crimson ■with a soft carmine-rose shade, colour beautiful and distinct, petals large and smooth, flowers large, full and cupped ; a fine rose. Introduced ia 1868. *Eeine du Midi : satin rose, petals large and smooth, flowers very large and of fine globular form ; a fine rose, somewhat resembling Za Heine, but much larger, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1868. "^ *Miohard Wallace : bright scarlet-crimson, changing to rosy- crimson, a weU. built high-centred flower, very large and full ; habit vigorous, a fine rose. Introduced 1871. Rosa Bonhew : pale rose, full, pretty small flowers ; dwarf habit. Introduced in 1871. *Rushton Radcliffe: deep crimson, flowers large, full and expanded; a good rose, habit moderate. *Senateur Vaisse : intense glowing scarlet, fine petal, flowers full, with high centre, large and perfectly formed, free growing, hand- ■ some foliage, and one of the very best roses in cultivation. *Sophie Coquerelle : blush, centre flesh colour, clear and good, flowers globular, very large, fall and well formed ; a fine light rose, habit vigorous. Souvenir de General Bouai : bnUiant bright rose, flowers large, globular and well formed ; habit robust. Introduced in 1871. Souvenir de Julie Gonad : soft rose-veined, flowers large and full, in the way of Centifolia rosea ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Souvenir de Charles Montault : velvety purple suffused with crimson, large and double ; free blooming and pretty, habit free. ^Souvenir de Br. Jamin: deep rich plum colour, velvety and superb, petals thick and smooth, flowers moderate size ; distinct and beautiful. 101 Souvenir de Monsieur Boll : bright shaded red, very large and fall, and well formed, habit very robust. *Souvenir de Poitem : sabnon-pink, beautifally shaded, the outer petals becoming paler, flowers extra large, half globular, when fully open expanded ; a magnificent rose, habit robust. Introduced in 1868. Souvenir de William Wood: centre deep violet-purple, outer petals rich velvety crimson, colour superb, though somewhat inclined to bum, flowers good size, compact and full, habit free. Thmas Methven : brilliant carmine, large, full, and finely formed flower ; habit vigorous. Thorin: clear rich carmine, petals large, and buds handsome, flowers scarcely fuU enough ; distinct, habit vigorous. *2%yr(i Sammeriek : delicate clear flesh changing to paler flesh, colour beautiful and even throughout, flowers erect, very large, fuU and cupped; a superb rose, and one of the best of its colour. Introduced in 1868. *Triomphe de Caen : deep velvety-purple and crimson, flowers very large and full, a superb rose ; habit vigorous. Triomphe de Villecresne : violet-crimson shaded with mulberry, colour very distinct and beautiful, flowers large, full and expanded ; distinct, habit dwarf. Vainqueur de Goliath : mulberry-crimson, a good and distinct colour, flowers large and full, a handsome rose ; habit free. Intro- duced in 1862. Victor Vernet : dark crimson shaded with violet, flowers mod- erate size ; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1871. Ville de Lyon : metallic-rose and silvery- white, flowers large, frill, and of fine form ; habit vigorous. Vicomte Vigier : intense rich velvety crimson and lake, beau- tifully shaded, large petal, a well formed globular flower, and ^ distinct; habit free. Introduced in 1861. Vicomtesse de Vezins: rich crimson, flowers large, and when half opened very beautiful ; habit vigorous. * Victor Verdier: deep rose, centre brilliant rose, a beautiful^ colour, flowers very large and full, an exquisite rose, free-flowering, and of good habit. * Victor le £ihan : brilliant carmine-rose, flowers large and full, petals large, smooth, and well disposed ; habit vigorous, with hand- some foliage ; a superb rose. Introduced in 1868. 102 Yirginale : pearly-wliite, -with the palest flesli centre, flowers of moderate size and -well formed, though not full ; an exqtiisite rose, but a delicate and unsatisfactory grower. Wilhelm Ffit%er : rich scarlet-crimson, centre velvety purple, petals large and smooth, flowers globular ; a first-class rose, with good free habit. Introduced in 1861. William Griffiths: glossy pink changing to light satin rose, petals curiously curved ; a very beautiful and free growing rose. *Xavid Pradel : pale rose and lavender, mottled, a peculiar flower, often of an enormous size, habit free and tolerably hardy. ^Devoniensis: creamy- white, centre sometimes blush ; one of the most beautiful roses in cultivation, hardy and vigorous in habit. Due de Magenta. : pale flesh delicately tinted with fawn, petals large and of fine waxy substance, flowers large, double, and ex- quisitely formed,, handsome dark foliage and good habit. 108 *Mise Samage : pale yello-w, centre orange, in dry weather very beautiful, but tbe most tender and delicate of all roses. *Mughne Besgachea : pale rose, flowers large and full, often very beautiful, habit free. Frkres Soupert et Notting : yellow bordered with carmine, reverse of petals lilac, a new colour ; habit moderate. Introduced in 1870. *Gloire de Dijon : buff, with orange centre, very large and double, handsome foliage, a most robust grower and abundant bloomer, very hardy ; one of the most superb roses grown. Gloire de Bordeaux; : bright rose, flowers very large and double, a vigorous growing and good climbing rose. *GoulauU : salmon-pink, deliciously fragrant, beautiful in the bud, habit moderate. *Sbmire : blush, with deeper centre, flowers cupped and double. *lsaiella Sprunt: fine canary-yellow, flowers moderately well formed ; habit free. Jaune d'Or: fine golden-yellow, flowers full and globular, medium size, moderate habit, beautiful. *Jean Fermi : light orange-yellow, outer petals paler, flowers of moderate size and double. Josephine Malton : creamy-white, very large and flne petal, hand- some foliage and good habit ; somewhat tender, but a most beautiful rose. Julie Mimsais : white, centre creamy-white, beautiful, large, and full ; a beautiful rose for the conservatory, but too tender for the open ground. Zags : pale yellow, flowers full and well formed; habit moderate. Laura Fontaine : creamy- white, centre clear fawn, flowers large and moderately well formed, distinct ; habit moderate. *Za Boule $ Or : outer petals pale yellow, centre rich nankeen yellow, flowers globular and very large, with fine broad smooth petals ; does not open freely out of doors, but in the conservatory or under glass is very beautiful ; habit vigorous. *La Sylphide : outer petals cream, tinted with pale carmine, centre fawn, very large and fuU ; a beautiful free blooming rose for out- door culture. La Tulipe : creamy-white, tinted with pale carmine, handsome , in the bud, but only semi-double, moderate habit. Introduced in 1870. 109 Za Jonquilh : jonqxul yello-w, a beautiful bright golden-yello-w bud, not fall, but very pretty, habit moderate. Introduced in 1 871 . Z'Afante Trowoi : pale yeUo-w, centre orange, large, fall, and well formed ; a beautiful rose, though much like, if not the same as Miae Smtvage. Liontine Laporte : sulphur and fawn, flowers fall, inner petals small ; a pretty free flowering rose of vigorous habit. Le Mont Elanc : palest lemon, long handsome pointed buds, not fall enough, a desirable rose for bouquets ; habit free. Introduced in 1870. Le NanUn : coppery-yellow, outer petals paler ; large, full, and of tolerably good form. ^Louise de Savoie : clear pale yellow, very large and full, fine shape, habit vigorous ; does not always open freely out of doors, but under glass it is superb. Ma Gcmucine : coppery-yeUow, flowers of medium size, a seed- ling from OpJdrie. Introdaced in 1871. *Madame Ba/rillet BescJiamps : white, centre cream, large, faU, and beautifully formed ; a most excellent rose under glass. *Madame Bera/rd : bright buff or fawn colour, with slight salmon tint, flowers very large, full and well formed, a very distinct and superb rose; habit vigorous. Introduced in 1870. *Madame Brmy : cream, centre blush, exquisitely formed ; in dry weather superb. *Madame Bremond : flowers varying from clear reddish-purple to dark purple, large and well formed ; habit moderate. *Madame Charles : deep orange-yellow or apricot ; beautiful colour and handsome in bud. Madame Camille : delicate rose, violet shade, flowers veined, very large and fuU, a fine rose, habit free. Introduced in 1871. *Maddme Celine Noirey : salmon-rose, flowers large and double ; very beautiful. Introduced in 1868. *Madame Bamaizin : buff with salmon tint, outer petals cream; a distinct and very beautiful rose, habit vigorous. *Madame de St. Joseph : fawn, shaded with salmon, large and beautiful. Madame de Vitry : centre bright pink slightly tinted, outer petals paler, full, of good size, and free habit; an excellent hardy rose. 110 *Madame Falcot : deep rich orange-yellow, petals large and of good substance, flowers not Ml, buds exquisitely beautiful, rich dark foliage ; habit free. '^Madame Joseph Salphen : white, beautifully tinted with carmine, moderate habit, free blooming ; an excellent rose. '^Madame Jules Margottin : copper and rosyrcerise, centre often deep red, variable, distinct and very pretty, habit free. Introduced in 1871. ^Madame Levet : buff centre, shaded salmon, very much resembling Gloire de Bijon, flowers large, cupped, and well formed, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1870. *Madame Marquise de FaueauU : white with yeUow centre, large and double. ^Madame Margottin : rich yellow with salmon-pink centre, faU, and of good form, habit vigorous; a superb rose, either for pot culture or out-doors. Introduced in 1866. ^Madame Mawrin : cream and fawn, flowers large, fall and finely formed ; a very hardy, vigorous, and beautiful rose. Madame Sertot: white, large, full, and well' formed, habit moderate. Madame XJriJk: pale fawn changing to cream, shape of the flower and habit like Gloire de Bijon, flowers somewhat paler, a good rose, habit vigorous. Introduced in 1870. '^Madame JVillermos, : creamy- white, centre tinted with fawn, petals very thick and finely formed, handsome large foliage, and moderately robust habit ; a superb rose. ^Madame William: deep yellow, flowers large and well formed, habit moderate. Mademoiselle Cecile Berthod: golden-yellow, colour clear and beautiful, flowers cupped, tolerably large and full, distinct habit, free. Introduced in 1871. Mansais : pinkish- fawn, very large and full ; a very beautiful and distinct rose. MarSohal Bugeaud : bright rose, very large and full ; a moderately hardy and very excellent rose. Marie Van Houtte : white, slightly tinted with yellow, border of the petals tinted with rose, flowers quite full and well formed, a good rose, habit moderate. Introduced in 1871. Ill Marie de Medicis: centre fawn, outer petals mottled -with carmine ; a good free rose. *Marie Sisley : cream, deeply- margined and shaded with rosy- salmon, flowers full size and very fragrant; a distinct and good rose, habit free. Introduced in 1868. Marie Ducher: cream and fawn, flowers large, fall, and well formed; in shape sni form resembling Gloire de Dijon; a good rose, habit vigorous. Mirahile: pale yellow, often edged and tinted with rose; pretty, habit moderate. *Moire : fawn and rose, yery large and full ; a superb rose, habit moderate. Momietir Furtado : very bright sulphur-yellow, flowers medium size, fuU and finely forme'd. *Montplaigir : salmon-yeUow, large and very full, habit very vigorous ; a seedling from Gloire de Dijon ; a fine rose, and desirable as a climbing or wall rose. Introduced in 1868. *Narcisse : fine pale yellow, habit of a Noisette ; a beautiful abundant blooming rose, moderate in habit, and tolerably hardy. *Nina : blush, very free blooming and beautiful, but the flowers a little too loose. *Niph,etos : white, centre pale straw, long handsome buds, large Magnolia-like petals ; in dry weather superb. *Nisida: yellow, shaded rose, beautiful and distinct, habit moderate. *Pactolm : lemon, centre pale yellow, habit vigorous ; a good and tolerably hardy rose. '^Pauline Lahonte : outer petals flesh tinted with "cream, centre deep salmon-buff, very large and full, sometimes peculiarly mottled ; a superb and distinct rose. Perfection_ de Montplaisir : clear lemon, form of the flowers similar to the Old Yellow Tea, very pretty, habit moderate. liatro- ducedin 1871. ^President: salmon and rose, very large and full, resembling Souvenir d'un Ami, habit vigorous. Princesse Adelaide : blush-white, globular, very large and full ; a fine rose when grown under glass. Reine du Portuffol: golden-yellow, centre shaded with copper, colour variable, very distinct and beautiful, flowers well formed, habit moderate. 112 Eegulu8 : bright copper and rose ; pretty, habit vigorous. ^Ruhena: ■white, delicately tinted with rose, flowers large and full ; a beautiful and well formed flower, habit moderate. *Sa/rano: bright apricot, fine dark foliage, flowers not very double, buds most beautiful ; vigorous and tolerably hardy. SmiWs Yellow, lemon, centre yellow, large and very full, a superb rose, but often disfigured by a green centre ; only fit for forcing. *Socrate : bright salmon and fawn, large and full, habit free ; a most distinct and beautiful rose. *Somireuil: pale straw, often pure ■white, very large and double, most vigorous ia habit, and hardy. * Souvenir de David: rosy-salmon, fine petal, flowers very large and double ; a most deliciously fragrant rose, and very beautiful. * Souvenir d'Elise: outer petals cream, centre salmon and fawn, petals large, flowers full and generally perfect, though ■ occasionally producing a hard centre ; a most superb rose. ^Souvenir d'un Ami : salmon and rose, very large and very full, fine handsome foliage ; a most superb rose for forcing or out of doors. Souvenir de Paul Niron : white, with rose and buff tint, flowers large, full, and very distinct, a first-rate rose, habit free. Intro- duced in 1871. Triomphe de Luxembourg : bronzed-rose, flowers very large and full ; a fine rose, habit vigorous. *Triomph,e de Guillot fih : fawn, beautifully tinted ■with salmon, large, well formed and full, deliciously fragrant; a handsome, vigorous gro'wing hardy rose. Tour Bertrand : bright yello'w, shaded ■with buff, flowers large and well formed, habit moderate. Unique : vrhite groimd, flamed with rose and purple, a distinct rose, but delicate. Introduced in 1870. Victor Pulliat : yello^wish- white, large, full and clustering, habit moderate. *Vicomiesse de Ga%es: yellow, centre copperish-yellow, a fine, free-blooming, yellow rose; flowers somewhat loose, delicate in habit, and very tender. ^Yellow : pale yellow, fine large Magnolia-like petal, with large handsome buds, not double but very beautiful, habit vigorous, though rather tender ; a fine rose for a south ■wall or the conservatory. 113 THE NOISETTE EOSE. The Old Blush or original Noisette is of American origin ; the characteristic properties are its blooming in large clusters, free habit of growth (producing long vigorous shoots), and rich perfume, partaking of the fragrance of the Musk and Tea-scented roses. Many of the varieties raised have been crossed with the Tea-scented, and thereby have become less hardy than the original kind ; they are, however, little less valuable on that account, for though not so well suited for standards, they form the finest of roses for south and west walls: many of them have large handsome flowers, highly fragrant, and of vigorous habit. Marechal Niel may be instanced as being the finest double yellow perpetual blooming rose in cultivation. Some few varieties are of moderate growth, adapted for standards or half-standards. In pruning the vigorous growers, thin out the small and unripe wood, and shorten the remaining shoots one-third or one-half, Gloth of Gold should either be grown against a south wall, or planted out in the conservatory. It should be encouraged to make all the growth possible, when after the first or second year it will commence to bloom. *Aimie Vibert : pure white, Uooming in large clusters, handsome glossy sub-eyergreen foHage; a very pretty rose of free hahit; suitable for a standard or a -wall. America : cream with salmon and fawn centre, large and very full, a fine rose, but suitable only for a south wall or the conservatory, as it does not open freely grown as a standard. *CeUne Forestier: canary-yellow, outer petals paler; flowers of moderate size, foU and weU formed, clustering; a distinct and very beautiful rose ; an exceUent climbing rose for south wall or con- servatory. It also makes a good standard. 114 * Cloth of Gold: pure yellow, globular, very large and very double, a superb rose, but a shy bloomer and very tender ; a fine rose for a south, wall or conservatory. Bu iMxemhowg : rosy-lilac, centre deep rose, large and double. Harl of Mdon : orange-buff, a loose semi-double flower, very attractive, and highly fragrant ; a good oUmbing rose. Introduced by Messrs. Paul & Son, 1871. Eclair de Jupiter : light crimson, very beautiful and attractive ; a good pillar rose. Ewphrosyne : pale flesh, tinted with fawn, free blooming, flowers loose ; one of the most fragrant of roses, on which account it should be grown. Fellenherg : bright rosy-crimson, very pretty and showy as a pillar rose, flowers of moderate size and not full. Isabella Grey : pure deep yellow, colour superb, do"es not open freely ; only fit for the forcing house, or possibly against a south wall in a warm locality. Jaune Desires : fawn, pink and fawn centre ; a very vigorous grower, and a fine waU rose. Jean Sardy : deep golden-yellow, flowers rather small ; a pretty climbing rose for the conservatory or south wall. *Za Siche : white, centre flesh, very fragrant ; a vigorous grower and a good wall rose. Lamarque Jaune : deep yellow, flowers small, tolerably full, and well formed; habit moderate. Introduced 1871. *Lamarqm : sulphur-white, very large and full ; a most beautiful rose for the conservatory or a wall, but too tender to bear a severe winter grown as a standard. Madame Schult% : centre pale yellow, outer petals straw, flowers full, of moderate size and good substance ; a fine rose of vigorous habit. *Mare'okal Niel: rich brilliant yellow, petals large and smooth, flowers very large, globular, deep, full and exquisitely formed ; the most superb of all yellow roses, habit very vigorous. A fine climbing rose for a south waU, for conservatory, or for pot culture. Ma/rguerite : yellow, bordered with white and shaded with rose, flowers medium size, habit very vigorous. *OpMrw : bright salmon and fawn, distinct and peculiar, often very beautiful in the autumn ; makes a good weeping or pillar rose. 116 Rive d'Or: orange-yellow, flowers moderate size and fuU; a good climbing rose. *8olfaterre : fine sulphur-yeUow, superb, large, and very full, hab,it vigorous; a splendid rose for a south wall as well as the conservatory. *Trwmphe de Rmms : straw, centre pale yellow, flowers of good size, fall, and well formed, having a peculiar fruity scent, habit vigorous ; an excellent rose. *Triomphe dela Jhicher : rose, flowers large and full ; an abundant bloomer, and a good pillar or climbing rose. A SELECT LIST OF EOSES ADAPTED TO VARIOUS CIRCUMSTANCES, SITUATIONS, &c. 1. — Selection of 100 hardy Roses, mitabU for growing in the neighbourhood of large manufacturing towns, where much smoke prevails. SmOlEB SOSES. French. — ^*Boula de Nanteuil, *Kean, Ohl. Hybrid China. — ^*Brennu8, *Chenedole, *rulgens, Leopold de BaufEremont, Miss Ingram. Eyhrid Bourhon. — ^*Charles Lawson, Coupe d'Hebe, Paul Perras. Damask. — *'La ViUe de BruxeUes. Sweet Briar. — *Double Scarlet. *S6otch Roses. * Climbing Roses, all excepting the Banksian. Hybrid Perpetual. — *Abel Grand, Alexandrine Bachmeteff,*Alfred Colomb, Andre Dunand, *Aima Alexieff, Baronne de Maynard, *Baronne Pr6vost, Beauty of "Waltham, Black Prince, *Boule de Neige, Caroline de Sansal, *Centifolia rosea, *Charles Lefebvre, *Charles Margottin, *Comtesse Jaucourt, Climbing Victor Verdier, *CQmteBse de Chabrillant, *Comtesse d' Oxford, *Dr. Audry, Due de Eohan, Due de "Wellington, Duchess of Norfolk, Duchess of Sutherland, Edward Morren, Exposition de Brie, *Pelix Qenero, Fisher Holmes, 116 *rranqois Lacharme, Geant des Batailles, *Geiieral Jacqueminot, Jean Eosenkrantz, *Jean Goujon, *Jolin Hopper, *jTile8 Margottin, Julia Toiivais, King's Acre, La Duehesse de Morny, La Eeine, Laurent Descourt, Leopold I., *Leopold II., *Lord Saglan, Louise d'Arzens, *Lyonnais, Madame Boutin, *Madame Caillat, *Madame Charles Crapelet, *Madame Clemence Joigneaux, *Madame de Cambacer^s, *MadaTne Hector Jacquin, Madame Julie Daran, *Madame Knorr, Madame Marie Cirodde, Mademoiselle Marie Eady, *Marquise de Castellane, *Maurice Bemardin, Marie Beauman, *Monsieur Boncenne, *"Monsieur de Montigny, *Monsieur Paul Neron, *Mrs Eivers, Nardy Freres, *Pierre Netting, President WUlermoz, *Prince CamUle de Eohan, Princess Louise Victoria {Knight), Paul Verdier, *Senateur Yaisse, Souvenir de Mons. Boll, Souvenir de Poiteau, Victor Verdier. Bowhon. — -ApoUine, *Baron GoneUa, *Baronne de Noirmont, Gatherine Guillot, Sir Joseph Paxtpn. China. — Cramoisie Superieure, *Mrs. Bosanquet, Old Blush, Old WHte. Tea-scented. — Climbing Devoniensis, Gloire de Bordeaux, *Gloire de Dijon, Sombreuil. Noisette. — *Aimee Vibert,*Celina Porestier, Pellenberg, Solfaterre. For Fifty, take those marked with an asterisk. For Twenty-four varieties choose the following: — Sylrid Boy/rlon. — Charles Lawson. Mylrid Perpetual. — ^Alfred Colomb, Baronne Prevost, Boule de Neige, Centifolia Eosea, Charles Lefebvre, Comtesse ChabrQlant, Comtesse d' Oxford, Dr. Andry, General Jacqueminot, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, Lord Eaglan, Madame Victor Verdier, Madame de CambacSres, Madame Knorr, Maurice Bernardin, Monsieur Paul Neron, Mrs. Eivers, Pierre Netting. China. — Mrs. Bosanquet. Tea. — Gloire de Dijon. Noisette. — Celina Forestier. Bowlon.- — Souvenir de la Malmaison. 117 2.— Selection of 100 hardy Roses, suitable for the North of England and Scotland, also for cold localities. STJMMEE; EOSES. Provence — ^*Cabbage, De Meaiix,.*Uiiique. J&M.— Baronne de Wassenaer, *Crested, *Gloire dea Mousseuses, Laneii, *Wldte Bath. French.— *^OTola de Nantena, Gloire de Colmar, Kean, *Ohl. Syhrid China — Brennus, *Chen6dole, Double Margined Hip, Fulgens. ^ Ryhrid Bowrhm.—*Ch.w:\Qs, Lawson, Coupe d'Heb6, *Paul Bicaut. Bmiash — La Ville de Bnixelles, *Madame Zoutman, Austrian. — *Haxriso]iii, *Persiaii Yello-w. Sweet Briar. — Double Scarlet. Climbing Roses. — AU excepting the Banksian. PEEPETTJAI. EOSES. Perpetual Moss. — G6n6ral Drouot, Madame Edouard Ory, Per- petual White. Damask Perpetual.- — Crimson Superb. Syhrid Perpetual. — *Abel Grand, *Alfred Colomb, Anna AlexiefP, Antoine Ducher, Baronne Prevost, *Baronne de Maynard, *Black Prince, *Boule de Neige, *Centifolia rosea, *Charles Lefebvre, *Climbing Yictor Terdier, *Comtesse d' Oxford, Frangois Lacharme, Charles Botdllard, Colonel de Eougemont, *Comtesse Chabrillant Comtesse de Jaucourt, *Dr. Andry, *Dr. Hurta, Duo de Eohan, Duo de "WeUington, *Duohesse de Caylus, *Duke of Edinburgh, *Dupuy Jamin, *Edouard Morren, *Exposition de Brie, *Pelix Genero, Geanl des Batailles, *Horace Vernet, Jean Goujon, *John Hopper, * Jules Margottin, *XiTig's Acre, Laurent Descourt, Leopold I., Leopold II., *Lord Clyde, Lord Macaulay, Lord Eaglan, Madame Boutin, Madame CaUlat, *Madame Charles Crapelet, *Madame Charles Wood, Madame Cambacer^s, *M^dame Knorr, *Madame la Baronne de Eothschild, Madame Victor Yerdier, ^Mademoiselle Bonnaire, *Marie Bady, Marie Beauman, *Marquise de CasteUane, Maurice Bemardin, Monsieur Bonoeime, *Monsieur Paul Neron, *Monsieur Etienne Leyet, *Mrs. Eivers, Nardy Er^res, Paul Yerdier, *Pierre Netting, Prince Canulle de Bohan, *Senateur Yaisse, Yictor Yerdier. 118 Bourhon. — Baron Gonella, Baronne de Noirmont, *Michael Bon- net, Sir Joseph Paxton. China. — ArcMuke Charles, Cramoisie Superieure, Mrs. Bosanqnet. rpea. — *Gloire de Dijon, Gloire de Bordeaux. For Fifty of the Choicest, take those marked with an asterisk. For Twenty-four varieties, choose the following : — Provenoe.^OlA. Cabbage. Moss. — Crested. Hybrid Bourbon. — Paul Eicaut. Austrian. — Persian Yellow. Hybrid Perpetual. — Alfred Colomb, Boule de Neige, Centifolia Eosea, Charles Lefebvre, Comtesse Chabrillaut, Comtesse d'Oxford, Dr. Andry, Duchesse de Caylus, Horace Yernet, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, Madame Charles "Wood, Madame Charles Crapelet, Madame la Baronne de Kothschild, Marie Kady, Mademoiselle Bonnaire, Monsieur Paul Neron, Pierre Netting. Bourbon. — Michael Bonnet. Tea. — Gloire de Dijon. 3. — Selection of 100 tif the finest varieties of show Roses for exhibiting as cut blooms. Hybrid Bourbon. — Paul Eicaut. Hybrid Perpetual. — *Alice Dureau, *Alfred Colomb, *Andre Dunand, *Annie Laxton, *Antoine Ducher, *Annie Wood, Black Prince, *Captain - lamure, *Centifolia Eosea, *Charles Lefebvre, Charles Eouillard, Claude Million, *Comtesse Chabrillant, *Com- tesse d'Oxford, Dr. Andry, Due de Wellingtoia, Duchesse de Caylus, Duke of Edinburgh, *Dftpuy Jamin, *Edouard Morren, *Emilie Hausburg, Exposition de Brie, *Eerdinaiid de Lesseps, Fisher Holmes, Frangois Lacharme, Henry Pages, Hippolyte Flandrin, *Horace Yernet, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, *La France, Laurent Descourt, *L8elia, Leopold I., Lord Macaulay, 119 *Louis VanHoutte (Lacharme) *l,yomiais, *MadameBeIloii,*Madame Charles Crapelet, *Madame Charles "Wood, Madame Creyton, *Madame de Eidder, Madame Furtado, *Madame George Schwartz, *Madame Guillot de Mont Pavet, Madame Jaoquier, *Madame la Baronne de Eothschild,*Madame Laurent, *MadameLefebvre Bernard, *Madame Victor Yerdier, Madame Yidot, *Mademoiselle Eugenie Yerdier, *Marqnise de Gibot, *Marqni8e de Castellane, Mar^chal Yaillant, Marie Eady, *Margnerite Dombrain, *Marguerite de St. Amand, *Marie Beanman, Marquise de Montemart, *Monsieur Bon- Qenne, Monsieur Etienne Levet, *Monsieur Paul Neron, *Mon8ieur Woman, *Monsieur Woolfield, *Nardy Pr^res, *Pierre Netting, *President Thiers, President 'WiUermoz, *Priiices8 Beatrice, Eeiae Daniel, *Eichard Wallace, Senateuf Yaise, Sophie Coquerelle, Yictor Yerdier, *Xavier Olibo. £